KiBH JESSICA PEIXOTTO - ENCYCLOPEDIA PRACTICAL RECEIPTS AND PROCESSES. CONTAINING OVER 6400 RECEIPTS; EMBRACING THOROUGH INFORMATION, IN PLAIN LANGUAGE, APPLICABLE TO ALMOST EVERT POSSIBLE INDUSTRIAL AND DOMESTIC REQUIREMENT. BY WILLIAM B. DICK, NEW YORK: DICK & FITZGERALD, PUBLISHERS GIFT OBSERVE. When searching for anything contained in this book, always refer to the INDEX, noting the directions given on page 565. The Receipts are classified, as far as practicable, under the headings to which they belong ; some of them, however, are applicable to several subjects, but are inserted, to avoid repetition, under one only. Such receipts, consequently, mighi not be readily found by con- sulting the Table of Contents, which gives the subject Headings only. The figures in the Index refer to the number of the Receipt, not the page number. Entered according in Act of Conprega,' iji tte year 1872, by PJCK &, FITZGERAL.IX, In the Office of tbo libianu af Coiigr^s/a't ypqe&ington, D C. PREFACE. The original design of the compiler of this work was to prepare a collection of popular and domestic receipts, to contain only those whose practical utility had been established, either by actual trial or by the guaranty of undoubted authori- ties, thus excluding the mass of untried, and, consequently, unreliable information to be found in Receipt Books, compiled with a view to quantity rather than quality. As the work progressed, it was found, in many cases, no easy matter to draw a line between the simple or practical and the artistic or scientific. To meet this difficulty, it was determined to enlarge its scope, increasing the usefulness of the former by the additional light of scientific research, and rendering the latter easy of application by reducing the formulae and technicalities of scientific writers to plain language, so as to be understood by the uninitiated. To carry out this idea intelligibly, the plan has been adopted of classifying the various subjects treated of in the Encyclopedia, so that each should be presented in a compact form of completeness unattainable by any other method ; omitting only, in order to save repetition, such information as could be found in connection with some other subject in another part of the work, but easily reached by the introduction of reference numbers, or by the aid of the Index. The result of this change of scheme in the preparation of the Encyclopedia is twofold: first, an amount of information on popular and household matters rarely, it is believed, to be found in one volume ; secondly, a condensed digest of all the practical information, bearing on the various branches of the industrial arts, that is contained in the best scientific works of modern times, many of which are costly and technical in style, and some of them rarely to be found in this country. This has necessarily involved an almost incredible amount of patient and per- sistent labor, rendered unavoidable in order to separate and extract the practical matter from theoretical propositions and speculative deductions, of great value to the expert, but entirely beyond the scope of a popular work ; this will be fully corroborated by the annexed list of authorities, which have been quoted or con- sulted in the preparation of the Encyclopedia. In accomplishing this the compiler has been assisted by a gentleman whose knowledge of languages, and other at- tainments, have aided him materially in his undertaking. The various processes and formulae connected with the Practical Arts form, therefore, a distinguishing feature of the work, of the highest utility both in the laboratory and the workshop. They are further explained, where it has been deemed necessary, with neatly executed illustrations and diagrams, thus giving the M1411G1 iv PREFACE. inexperienced a clear insight into many of those scientific operations usually sup- posed to be attainable only by persons trained and educated for the purpose. The Receipts containing information more especially applicable to domestic matters and the requirements of every-day life, deserve more than a passing notice, as no pains have been spared to make them comprehensive, thorough, and clearly understood ; showing not only what must be done, but how to do it, in order to attain any desired result; giving the materials used, their proper proportions, and how to prepare, mix and apply them; introducing also, wher- ever advisable or necessary, reliable tests for the purity, strength, etc., of the substances brought into requisition. This principle of testing is a noticeable feature throughout the Encyclopedia. In the Medical department, each recipe or formula is adopted for its efficacy only, without reference to any particular School of Medicine. Some of them are published for the first time in this work, being obtained from the private memoranda of a distinguished physician, and other similar sources. With the exception of general, but thorough, directions for Curing, Preserving, Pickling and Canning, Culinary receipts have been avoided, as they may be found in any reliable Cookery Book ; the design of this work being to afford only such information as is not otherwise easily attainable. The Tables of Weights and Measures, and their comparative values, are by a competent mathematician, and founded on official or other well-established data. They include also a careful selection of general statistical information from authentic sources. The last 24 pages consist of Miscellaneous Receipts, which would not readily admit of classification ; including, also, a few additional receipts obtained too late to take their place in the part of the book to which they properly belong. These will always be found by consulting the Index, a course which will insure the find- ing of all the information connected with the subject desired. Condensation has been resorted to throughout the work, as far as possible, and repetition greatly avoided by the use of reference numbers, which are introduced wherever it has been found necessary to refer the reader for further information contained in some paragraph in another part of the book. A carefully prepared Index is appended, in as condensed a form as perspicuity will allow. A glance at the directions given at the commencement of the Index will materially aid in finding the article or paragraph sought for. In submitting to the public this contribution to the popular resources of general information and practical knowledge, the compiler begs to offer his apologies for any errors or omi^ms that may occur in it; reserving for future editions such corrections and adcHlftns as circumstances may suggest, or the march of improve- ment demand. By no means assuming the impossible attribute of perfection for this work, he believes that its contents will at least warrant his claiming for the Encyclopedia a marked superiority over other existing works of a similar nature. AUTHORITIES QUOTED AND CONSULTED. Ajnerican Chemist. American Dispensatory, 6th Edition. American Journal of Science and Arts. Annales de Chimie et de Physique. Beach's American Practice and Family Physician. Beasley's Druggists' General Receipt Book, 6th Edition. Booth's Encyclopedia of Chemistry. Boston Medical and Surgical Journal. British Pharmacopeia for 1860. Bulletin du Muse6 de 1'Indnstrie Belgique. Bulletin Mensuel de la Societ6 Chimique de Paris. Bulletin of General Therapeutics . Chambers' Edinburgh Encyclopedia. Chemical Times. Christison's Dispensatory. Comtes Rendus des Stances de 1'Academie des Sciences. Cooley's Cyclopaedia of Practical Receipts, 5th Edition. Cooley's Practical Receipts for Perfumes and Cosmetics. Cosmos. Dingler's Polytechnisches Journal. Druggists' Circular and Chemical Gazette. Dublin Pharmacopeia for 1850. Dussauce's Practical Guide for the Perfumer. Eclectic Medical and College Journal. Edinburgh Pharmacopoeia for!841. Ellis's Medical Formulary, 12th Edition. Fresenius' Zeitschrift fur Analytische Chemie. Guettier's Metallic Alloys. Hager's Manuale Pharmaceuticum. Hall's Journal of Health. Hamburgh Pharmacopseia. Jahresbuch der Physik. Journal de Pharmacie et de Chimie. Kurten on the Manufacture of Soaps. London Pharmaceutical Journal and Transactions. London Pharmacopoeia for 1851. L'Union Medicale. Mackenzie's 10,000 Receipts. Makin's Manual of Metallurgy. Mechanics' Magazine. Mohr and Redwood. - VI AUTHORITIES QUOTED AND CONSULTED. Moniteur Scientifique. Morfit's Chemical Manipulations. Muspratt's Chemistry as applied to the Arts and Manufactures. Napier's Manual of Electro-Metallurgy, 4th Edition. Neues Jahrbuch fur Pharmacie Ott on Soaps and Candles. Paris Codex. Parrish's Practical Pharmacy, 3d Edition. Pereira's Materia Medica. Piesse's Art of Perfumery. Proceedings of the American Pharmaceutical Association.. Prussian Pharmacopoeia. Rack's French Wine and Liquor Manufacturer, 4th Edition Redwood's Supplement to the Pharmacopoeia (British). Revue des Cours Scientifiques. Revue Hebdomadaire de Chimie. Revue Scientifique. Scientific American. "Wright's 3,000 Receipts. United States Dispensatory, 13th Edition. United States Pharmacopeia for 1863. Ure's Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures and Mines. Youman's Hand Book of Household Science. Yarious Papers delivered before Scientific Societies. CONTENTS. Page. CHEMICAL MANIPULATIONS 9 and 355 PREPARATIONS 17 SPECIFIC GRAVITY 22 ALCOHOLMETRY 23 ACETIMETRY 28 ACIDIMETRY 29 ALKALIMETRY 30 THE THERMOMETER 30 THE ART OF DYEING 31 FAMILY DYEING EECEIPTS 47 To REMOVE STAINS, SPOTS, &c 48 THE ART OF SOAP-MAKING 66 TOILET SOAPS 69 SOAP BY THE COLD PROCESS 72 SOFT SOAPS 73 HOME-MADE TALLOW CANDLES 77 TANNING 78 IMITATION LIQUORS 80 CHAMPAGNE 83 HOME-MADE WINES 84 CORDIALS OR LIQUEURS 89 BITTERS 93 CIDER 94 BREWING 97 PERFUMERY 107 COLOGNE WATER AND PERFUMED SPIRITS 111 To PREPARE FLAVORING EXTRACTS 114 ARTIFICIAL FRUIT ESSENCES 115 EXTRAITS OR PERFUMED EXTRACTS 115 AROMATIC OR PERFUMED WATERS, 126 DEPILATORIES 128 SCENTED OR PERFUMED OILS 129 POMATUMS OR POMADES .. ...131 Page. TOOTH POWDERS AND DENTIFRICES 135 TOOTH PASTES AND ELECTUARIES 136 TOOTH AND MOUTH WASHES 137 FUMIGATING PASTILS, AND INCENSE 138 SYRUPS 140 SYRUPS FOR SODA WATER 142 ALCOHOL 144 ESSENTIAL OR VOLATILE OILS 148 FIXED OILS AND FATS 152 PETROLEUM AND KEROSENE 157 LUBRICATORS FOR MACHINERY 158 WATERPROOFING 159 HONEY 161 BEES'-WAX 162 CHEESE 164 PRESERVATIVES AND PRESERVING 165 SOLUTIONS FOR ANATOMICAL PREPARA- TIONS 170 To PRESERVE WOOD 171 FREEZING MIXTURES 172 DISINFECTANTS 173 BLEACHING 175 VINEGAR 177 SAUCES, CATSUPS AND PICKLES 181 YEAST 184 RECEIPTS FOR THE FLOWER AND KITCH- EN GARDEN 185 THE EXTERMINATION OF VERMIN 191 PREPARED PAPER 193 IVORY, ALABASTER, &c 198 PYROTECHNY 202 EXPLOSIVES 206 CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES 208 LUTES * 217 FLOUR PASTE ".;.?J. 218 GLUE 219 SEALING WAX 221 BOILER INCRUSTATIONS 222 GLASS... ...223 CONTENTS. Page. ENAMELS 225 GLAZES .227 ARTIFICIAL GEMS... ...228 FOILS 230 INKS AND WRITING FLUIDS 231 ANILINE COLORS 237 LIQUID COLORS FOR VARIOUS PURPOSES. 244 PIGMENTS 248 DRYING OILS AND DRYERS . . ,. .252 HOUSE PAINTING 253 KALSOMINE AND "WHITEWASH .. ...257 PAPER HANGING. .258 SOLUBLE GLASS 259 To DYE WOOD 260 To STAIN WOOD 262 VARNISH 263 OIL VARNISHES.. ...264 .266 SPIRIT VARNISHES VARNISHING 272 POLISHING 273 FRENCH POLISHING 274 To ENAMEL WOOD-WORK 275 JAPANNING 277 INDIA JAPANNING 278 . LACQUERS 279 PRESERVATION OF LEATHER 281 BOOT AND SHOE BLACKING 282 MARBLES AND SPRINKLES FOR BOOKS... 283 PHOTOGRAPHY 285 METALS 292 ALLOYS 308 FLUXES 316 SOLDERING AND WELDING 317 AMALGAMS 320 GILDING, SILVERING, dy, assumed as the standard, or 1.000. his standard is pure distilled water for quids and solids, and atmospheric air for aseous bodies and vapors. In the United tates and England the specific gravity, unless 'hen otherwise expressed, is always taken at F.; but in Prance at 32, or the tempera- ire of melting ice. In most cases, however, is sufficient merely to note the temperature, nd to apply a correction, depending on the nown density of water or air, at the different egrees of the thermometric scale. The above plan has been adopted, because he weight of an equal btdk of different sub- tances varies greatly. Thus, as gold is 19 nd silver 10 times heavier than water, those umbers, 19 and 10, are said to represent the pecific gravity of gold and silver. The eaviest of all known substances is the very lard metal used for making points to the so- ailed diamond gold pens. . It is called iri- ium ; its specific gravity is 23. Next comes latinum, 21 ; gold, 19 ; mercury, 13.5 ; lead, 1.3; silver, 10; copper, 8; iron,?; zinc, 6; ifferent kinds of stones, from 4 to 1 ; alumi- mm, 2.5. Flax and all woody fibres have a pecific gravity of 1.4, and are thus heavier han water, but wood will float or sink ac- ,ording to the number of its pores into which he water does not penetrate. So ebony and many kinds of hard wood sink, pine and all kinds of soft wood float. Cork is the lightest wood, its specific gravity being only 0.24, less than one-quarter that of water. Alcohol is about three-quarters the weight of water, and as the strength of liquor depends on the amount of alcohol it contains, this strength is simply found out by its specific gravity indi- cated by the more or less floating of a littb in- strument called a hydrometer, the weaker iquid being little lighter than water has the strongest buoyant power; solutions of dif- ferent salts, sugar, etc., being heavier than water, have a stronger buoyant power ; ves- sels therefore will draw less water in the sea than in fresh water, and it is more difficult to swim' in the latter than in the sea. The lightest of all liquids has a specific gravity of 0.6 ; it is called chimogene, and is made from petroleum; it is exceedingly volatile and combustible; in fact, it is a liquefied gas. Carbonic acid gas or choke damp is about 500 times lighter than water; common air, 800; street gas about 2,000, and pure hydrogen, the lightest of all substances, 12,000 times. The heaviest substance has thus 23x12,000 or more than a quarter of a million times more weight than an equal bulk of the light- est ; and the substance of which comets con- sist, has by astronomers been proved to be even several thousand times lighter than hydrogen gas. 48. To find the Specific Gravity of a Substance heavier or lighter than Wa- ter. In order to ascertain the specific gravity of a body heavier than water, the following method is adopted. First weigh it in air, then weigh it immersed in water. The difference between these two weights will be its loss of weight in water, or, in other words, the weight of the water displaced. Then divide the weight ALCOHOLMETRY. in air by its loss in water, and the result is the specific gravity. Thus, suppose a substance weighs, 12 pounds in air, and 10 pounds in water. Ite loss is 2 pounds in water. Divide 12 (weight in air) by 2 (loss in water), and the result isits specific gravity, 6. That is, the substance is, bulk for bulk, 6 times as heavy as water. If the substance will not sink in water, then weight must be added to make it just sink below the surface. This extra weight, added to the weight in air, show its loss in water. Thus, if a substance weighs 8 pounds in air, but requires 2 pounds to be added to submerge it in water, its loss of weight in water is 2 added to 8=10 pounds. Proceeding as before, we divide its weight in air, 8, by its loss in water, 10 and we have it specific gravity -&=.8. 49. To find the Specific Gravity of a Liquid or a Gas. Weigh it in a specific fravity bottle, glass flask, or other vessel of nown capacity ; and dividing that weight by the weight of the same bulk of water, the quotient is, as before, the specific gravity. 50. To find the Specific Gravity of a Solid Body Soluble in Water. Take its specific gravity in regard to some liquid which does not dissolve it, and multiply by the specific gravity of the liquid. Thus, a piece of sugar, whose weight is 400 grains, is found to lose 217.5 grains if weighed when im- mersed in oil of turpentine ; this would make its specific gravity, as compared with oil of turpentine, 2 J i r Q 3=l-84. The specific gravity of the turpentine is .87; then, 1. 84 X. 87 =1.6, the real specific gravity of the sugar. 51. To find the Specific Gravity of a Body in Powder Insoluble in Water. Introduce it into a bottle whose capacity is known ; fill the bottle with pure water at 60. It will hold as much less water as is equal to the bulk of the powder, and the weight of the powder in air divided by this difference will give the specific gravity. Thus, supposing the bottle to hold 1000 grains of water, 100 grains of emery are introduced, and the bottle filled up with water. If no water were dis- placed the two should weigh 1100 grains; they really weigh 1070 ; the difference, 30 grains, is the weight of water displaced; 100-^-30=3.333, specific gravity of the emery. 52. To Determine the Weight of a Body from its Specific Gravity. A cubic foot of water weighs 1000 ounces ; hence, to determine the weight of a given bulk of any body the specific gravity of which is known, multiply the cubic content in feet by 1000, and this by the specific gravity, and the pro- duct will be the weight in ounces avoirdupois. Thepercent- age of absolute alcohol in any spi- rituous liquid may be given either by vol- ume or weight, but as liquors are sold by measure, not weight, it is generally preferred to know the percentage by volume. The per cent, of weight remains the same in all temperatures, but the per cent, by volume varies with the temperature or heat of the liquid. Many instruments have been intro- duced to determine the quantity of absolute alcohol contained in any spirituous liquors, and these are known as hydrometers, or alco- holmeters. Hydrometers made by different inventors have come into use in different countries; thus the hydrometer made by Tralles has been adopted by the governments of the United States and Prussia ; that made by Gay Lussac has been legally sanctioned in Prance and Sweden ; while that invented by Sikes has been approved and made the excise standard in Great Britain. 54. Tralles' Hydrometer. Tralles' hy- drometer is the instrument used by our government to ascertain the strength of im- ported liquors, and is made of glass. Tralles has adopted as the standard of comparison pure or absolute alcohol in volume at the temperature of 60 Fah., the strength of which he expresses by a scale divided into 100 de- grees or parts, each of which represents yj^j part of alcohol. When floated in any spirituous liquor at a temperature of 60 Fah., it im- mediately indicates the strength. For in- stance, if in a brandy at that temperature it sinks to 65, it shows that 65 parts of the liquor is absolute alcohol, and 35 parts water; should it sink to 90, it indicates that the liquor is 90 parts or per cent, strong, and so on. An increase of heat causes liquids to ex- pand in volume, and a decrease produces con- traction ; therefore spirits over the normal temperature of 60 Fah. appear stronger than they really are, and below 60 they are really stronger than they appear to be. It is therefore evident that the degrees of percentage of this hydrometer are only cor- rect when the spirit under trial has the nor- mal temperature of 60 Fah. "When the temperature varies from 60, the percentage can only be ascertained by a long and tedious calculation. To avoid this Mr. Tralles has constructed a simple table by which the real percentage of alcohol is found in liquids of different temperatures from the results ex- hibited by the instrument. (See No. 55.) The horizontal line at the top shows the various temperatures given by the thermome- ter ; the column of figures under 60 shows the true percentage of strength at the normal or standard temperature of 60 ; the figures under the other degrees of temperature show the observed or apparent degrees of strength as indicated by the hydrometers. As an example of the simple manner by which this table may be used, we will suppose that the temperature of the spirits to be tested is at 75, Fah., and that the hydrometer sinks to 53 on the scale ; this would be the observed or apparent degree or percentage of strength. jSTow to find the real percentage of strength at 60, we turn to the table and find the up- right or vertical column of figures headed 75, we then run down the figures until we arrive at 53.0 ; having ascertained this, we then trace the horizontal line to the left or right to the outside column headed 60, and at the point when the horizontal line running from 53.0 meets the column headed 60, will be found the number 50. We thus ascertain that a spirit at 75 having an observed strength of 53 has only a real percentage of 50 at the 24: ALCOHOLMETR T. normal or established temperature of CO . Suppose that another sample of brandy, in- stead of being at 75 is at 50, and the instru- ment still sinks to 53. In the same way we select the column headed 50, and run down the figures until we find 53.0, then by tracing the horizontal line until we arrive at the out- eide column headed 60 (either the first or last column), we find the number 55, which is the true percentage of the brandy at 60 Fah. Again, if an alcoholic liquid at a tempera- ture of 30 be found to contain 23.5 per cent, by volume, by reference to the table 30 will be found to express its actual strength at 60 Pah. "We might multiply examples, but the above are sufficient to show the manner by which the table may be worked. 65. Table to find the true percentage of Absolute Alcohol by volume in a liquid at 60 from tJie observed percentage indicated by a Glass Hydrometer at any oilier temperature. 60 30 35 40 45 50 55 C 65 70 75 80 85 60 0.2 0.4 0.4 0.5 0.4 0.2 +0.2 +0.6 +1.0 +1.4 +1.9 5 +4.6 +4.5 +4.5 +4.5 +4.6 +4.8 5.3 5.8 6.2 6.7 7.3 5 10 9.1 9.0 9.1 9.2 9.3 9.7 10.4 11.0 11.6 12.3 13.0 10 15 13.0 13.1 13.3 13.5 13.9 14.5 15.6 16.3 17.1 18.0 19.0 15 20 16.5 16.9 17.4 17-8 18.5 19.2 20.8 21.8 22.8 23.8 24.9 20 25 19.9 20.6 21.4 22.2 23.0 24.1 25.9 27.0 28.2 29.4 30.5 25 30 23.5 24.5 25.7 26.6 27.7 28.8 31.1 32.2 33.4 34.5 35.7 30 35 28.0 29.2 30.4 31.6 32.7 33.8 36.2 37.3 38.4 39.5 40.6 35 40 33.0 34.2 35.4 36.7 37.8 39.0 41.1 42.2 43.3 44.3 45.4 40 45 38.4 39.6 40.7 41.8 42.9 43.9 46.1 47.1 48.2 49.2 50.3 45 50 43.7 44.7 45.8 46.9 47.9 49.0 51.0 52.0 53.0 54.0 55.1 50 55 49.0 50.0 51.0 52.0 53.0 54.0 54.9 56.9 57.9 58.9 59.9 55 60 54.2 55.2 56.2 57.1 58.1 59.0 60.9 61.9 62.9 63.8 64.9 60 65 59.4 60.3 61.2 62.2 63.1 64.0 65.9 66.8 67.7 68.6 69.6 65 70 64.6 65.5 66.4 67.3 68.2 69.1 70.8 71.7 72.6 73.5 74.5 70 75 69.8 70.7 71.5 72.4 73.3 74.2 75.8 76.7 77.6 78.4 79.3 75 80 75.0 75.8 76.6 77.5 78.4 79.2 80.8 81.7 82.4 83.2 84.1 80 85 80.3 81.1 81.8 82-6 83.5 84.3 85.7 86.5 87.3 88.0 88.8 85 90 85.6 86.4 87.1 87.9 88.6 89.3 90.7 91.4 92.0 92.7 93.4 90 The following table gives the richness or the per cent, of alcohol by volume, in reference to the volume of the liquid at the temperature when tested ; it therefore requires ' that the liquor should be tested exactly at the came temperature at which it was measured. 66. Table to find the true percentage of Absolute Alcohol in a liquid of any temperature from the observed percentage indicated by the Glass Hydrometer at the same temperature. True per ct. of Alcohol by Volume. Observed per cent indicated by the Glass Hydrometer. 30 35 40 45 50 55 65 70 75 80 85 0.2 0.4 0.4 0.5 0.4 0.2 +0.2 +0.6 +1.0 +1.4 +1.9 5 +4.6 +4.5 +4.5 +4.5 +4.6 +4.8 5.3 5.8 6.2 6.7 7.3 10 9.1 9.0 9.1 9.2 9.3 9.7 10.4 11.0 11.6 12.3 13.0 15 13.0 13.1 13.3 13.6 14.1 14.5 15.6 16.3 17.1 18.0 19.0 20 16.5 16.9 17.4 17.9 18.5 19.2 20.8 21.8 22.9 23.9 25.0 25 19.8 20.5 21.3 22.2 23.0 24.1 25.9 27.1 28.3 29.5 30.7 30 23.3 24.3 25.5 26.5 27.6 28.8 31.2 32.3 33.5 34.6 35.9 35 27.7 28.9 30.2 31.4 32.6 33.8 36.3 37.5 38.6 39.7 40.9 40 32.5 33.8 35.1 36.5 37.7 38.9 41.2 42.4 43.5 44.6 45.8 45 37.8 39.1 40.3 41.5 42.7 43.8 46.2 47.3 48.5 49.6 50.8 50 43.1 44.2 45.4 46.6 47.7 48.9 51.1 52.2 53.4 54.5 55.6 55 48.3 49.4 50.5 51.6 52.8 53.9 56.1 57.2 58.3 59.4 60.5 60 53.4 54.5 55.6 56.7 57.8 58.9 61.1 62.2 63.3 64.4 65.5 65 58.4 59.5 60.6 61.7 62.8 63.9 66.0 67.1 68.2 69.3 70.4 70 63.5 64.6 65.7 66.8 67.9 69.0 71.0 72.1 73.2 74.3 75.4 75 68.6 69.7 70.7 71.8 72-9 74.0 76.0 77.1 78.2 79.2 80.3 80 73.7 74.8 75.8 76.9 78.0 79.0 81.0 82.1 83.1 84.1 85.2 85 78.8 79.8 80.9 81.9 83.0 84.0 86.0 87.0 88.0 89.0 90.0 90 84.0 85.1 86.1 87.1 88.1 89.1 91.0 91.9 92.8 93.7 j 94.6 ALCOHOLMETRY. Thus, if the Hydrometer indicated 59.4 per j cent, in a liquid at 80 Fah., the table in No. 57 would give its true percentage (richness) to 55 per cent.; that is, 100 volumes of the liquid at 80 contains 55 volumes of alcohol. Tralles' Hydrometer gives the per cent, by volume only. If it be desired to know the per cent, by weight, it may be ascertained from the percentage in volume of the liquid at 60 Fah. by table in No. 57. 57. Table of Comparison between the per cent, of Alcohol by volume at 60 (Trailed) and per cent, by weight. Pe by Vol rCent. by Weight. ft h Vol r Cent, by Weight. Per by Weight. Cunt, by Volume. Per by Weight. Sent, by Volume. 0. 55 47.29 0. 55 63.97 5 4.00 GO 52.20 5 6.25 60 68.97 10 8.05 65 57.25 10 12.42 65 73.79 15 12.15 70 62.51 15 18.52 70 78.40 20 16.28 75 67.93 20 24.57 75 82.80 25 20.46 80 73.59 25 30.55 80 86.97 30 24.69 85 79.50 30 36.45 85 90.88 35 28.99 90i 85.75 35 42.25 90 94.46 40 33.39 95 92.40 40> 47.92 95 97.61 45 37.90 100100.00 45 53.43 100 100.00 50 42.52 50 58,79 58. Gendar's Hydrometer. Annexed we give a comparative view of the scales of Tralles and Gendar, the former used by the revenue officers of the United States for im- ported liquors, and indicating the per cent, by volume of alcohol in spirituous liquors, and the latter used throughout the whole country for domestic liquors, determining the percent, above and below proof. This is inserted for the convenient compar- ison of the American standards. Tables of other areometers reduced to specific gravity will be found in Nos. (i!55, &c. The first column of the table exhibits the specific gravities at 60 Fah., for. mixtures of pure alcohol and water ; taking water at the temperature of its greatest density, about 39.5 Fah., as 1.0000, and, therefore, having at 60 Fah. a specific gravity of 0.9991. Of the above mixtures, each 100 gallons or mea- sures contain the number of gallons or mea- sures of alcohol indicated in the second col- umn (Tralles' hydrometer scale) if measured atGO Fah. In the Tralles' hydrometer scale there is no reference to proof of any denomination ; and in that of Gendar's there is but one proof, marked P. on the hydrometer; the others, such as 2d, 3d and 4th proofs, were, at all times, incorrect and deceptive. The National Tax Law, of August 1st, 1862, says that " the term proof shall be construed, and is hereby declared to mean that proof of a liquor which corresponds to 50 degrees of Tralles' hydrom- eter at the temperature of GO degrees Fah." Proof spirit is, therefore, by law, of the alco- holic strength of 50 per cent, by volume, hav- ing a specific gravity of 0.9335, or a mixture of equal quantities of absolute alcohol at the specific gravity of 0.793, and distilled water at 60 Fah. In other words, proof spirit is one-half pure water and half absolute alco- hol. To ascertain what strength any liquor above proof by the Gendar hydrometer would be by the Tralles hydrometer, add 100 to the given proof if above proof, or deduct, if below proof, from 100 on the Gendar scale, and divide I HH tdorkyS. Sayaliquorisat g!40 above P. on the ! Gendar scale.you then add 100, making 140, and divide by2, which will show 70 on the Tralles' scale. If below P. deduct the proof from 100 and divide the remainder by 2. Say a liquor is 35* be- low P., consequently you have a remainder of 65, and divide the 65 by 2, which will show 32i on Tralles' scale. Having ascer- tained the degree of strength of any liquor by volume on Tralles' scale above (which is proof), multiply the degrees by 2, and cut off the two right hand figures, and it will show the degrees above proof on Gen- dar's scale. Thus we will suppose the spirit to show 70 per cent, strength on Tralles' scale. "We therefore multiply 70 by 2, which gives us 140; we no w cut off the two right hand figures, thus, 1.40, and find that the liquor is 40 above proof on Gen- dar's scale. uor Tralles' scale (which is below proof). To find what degree it is below on Gendar's scale, multi- ply the degrees on Tralles' scale by 2 and add a number suffi- cient to make 100; the number required to be added will show the degree below proof. 59. Tralles' Table of Percentage of Alcohol. "When the temperature of tho spirit is 60 Fah., the first column of tho table on page 26 gives at once the percent- age of alcohol by measure; when the tem- perature is below 60 an addition must be made of 1 measure per cent, for every 5 degrees of the thermometer ; and when aboyo GO a like quantity must be deducted. This correction will amount to the fraction or the decimal 2 for every single degree, and is very easily made. If the specific gravity sought cannot be found exactly in the table, the difference between it and the next greater specific gravity in tho table must be taken, which will give tho numerator of a fraction, having for its denominator the number found in the third column against the next greater number just employ^. This fraction, added to the percentage of alcohol in the first p > *& 3$ 0.7939 8157 8332 8488 8631 8765 8892 9013 9126 9234 9335 9427 9510 9583 9646 9700 9751 9802 9857 9919 0.9991 R: I s - II H T. CO 95 ~~ 90 - 80 ~ 70 60 85 - 80 75 - 70 - 50 40 60 - - 20 55 - 10 ' 50' =3 - P z= 45 =^, - 10 35 - 30 ' 25 20 - 30 - 40 - 50 - - 60 ~ 1 = 10 = - 80 o J ' - 100 zzz Or suppose a liqu isbelow0 on Trail ALCOHOLMETRT. column of the table against the said specific gravity, -will give the true percentage sought. Thus, if*the specific gravity of a spirituous liquor is .9605, what is its alcoholic content ? Here .9605 is not in the table, but the next greater number is .9609; the former must therefore be deducted from the latter, and the difference (4) put as the numerator of the fraction, having for its denominator the num- ber (13) in the column of differences against .9609. The fraction -^ so found, added to the percentage against .9609 in the first column, gives 33-j% as the true percentage of alcohol in the given sample Tralles' Table exhibiting the percentage, by volume, of Alcohol, corresponding to any given specific gravity. Alcohol in 100 Measures of Spirit. Specific Gravity at 60 F. Difference of Specific Gravity. Alcohol in 100 Measures of Spirit. Specific Gravity at 60 F. Difference of Specific Gravity. Alcohol in 100 Measures of Spirit. Specific Gravity at 60 F. Difference of Specific Gravity. Pure water .9919 00 34 .9596 13 68 .8941 24 1 .9976 15 35 .9583 13 69 .8917 24 2 .9961 15 36 .9570 13 70 .8892 25 3 .9947 14 37 .9556 14 71 .8867 25 4 .9933 14 38 .9541 15 72 .8842 25 5 .9919 14 39 -9526 15 73 .8817 25 6 .9906 13 40 .9510 16 74 .8791 26 7 .9893 13 41 .9494 16 75 .8765 26 8 .9881 12 42 -9478 16 76 .8739 26 9 .9869 12 43 .9461 17 77 .8712 27 10 .9857 12 44 -9444 17 78 .8685 27 11 -9845 12 45 .9427 17 79 .8658 27 12 .9834 11 46 .9409 18 80 .8631 27 13 .9823 11 47 -9391 18 81 .8603 28 14 .9812 11 48 -9373 18 82 .8575 28 15 .9802 10 49 -9354 19 83 .8547 28 16 .9791 11 50 .9335 19 84 .8518 29 17 .9781 10 51 -9315 20 85 .8488 30 18 .9771 10 52 -9295 20 86 .8458 19 .9761 10 53 -9275 20 87 .8428 30 20 .9751 10 54 .9254 21 88 .8397 31 21 .9741 10 55 -9234 20 89 .8365 32 22 .9731 10 56 -9213 21 90 .8332 33 23 .9720 11 57 -9192 21 91 .8299 33 24 .9710 10 58 .9170 22 92 .8265 34 25 .9700 10 59 -9148 22 93 .8230 35 26 .9689 11 60 .9126 22 94 .8194 36 27 .9679 10 61 .9104 22 95 .8157 37 28 .9668 11 62 .9082 22 96 .8118 39 29 .9657 11 63 -9059 23 97 .8077 41 30 .9646 11 64 .9036 23 98 .8034 43 31 .9634 12 65 .9013 23 99 .7988 46 32 33 .9622 .9609 12 13 66 67 .8989 .8965 24 24 Pure ) Alcohol ( .7939 49 60. Table for reducing the strength. of Alcohol. The following Table given by Booth, shows the quantity of water that must be added to alcohol of a given strength, in order to produce an alcohol of inferior strength. The upper horizontal column contains the percentage of strength of the stronger alco- hol to be diluted; the vertical columns below, denote the volumes of water which must be added to 100 volumes of it, in order to produce a spirit of the strength indicated in the left hand column. Desired strength in per cent. 90 85 80 75 70 65 60 55- 50 85 6.56 80 13.79 6.83 75 21.89 14.48 7.20 70 31.05 23.14 15.35 7.64 65 41.53 33.03 24.66 16.37 8.15 60 53.65 44.48 35.44 26.47 17.58 8.56 55 67.87 57.90 48.07 38.32 28.63 19.02 9.47 50 84.71 73.90 63.04 52.43 41.73 31.25 20.47 10.35 45 105.34 93.30 81.38 69.54 57.78 46.09 34.46 22.90 11.41 40 130.80 117.34 104.01 90.76 77.58 64.48 51.43 38.46 25.55 35 163.28 148.01 132.88 117.82 102.84 87.93 73.08 58.31 43.59 30 203.22 188.57 171.05 153.61 136.04 118.94 101.71 84.54 67.45 25 266.12 245-15 224.30 203.53 182.83 162.21 141.65 121.16 100.73 20 355.80 329.84 304.01 278.26 252.58 226.98 201.43 175.96 1C0.55 15 505.27 471. 436.85 402.81 368.83 334.91 301.07 267.29 233.64 10 804.54 753.65 702.89 752.21 601.60 551.06 500.59 450.19 399.85 ALCOHOLMETR Y. Illustration. If we have alcohol of 70 per cent, strength, and desire to reduce its strength to 40 per cent. we look for 40 in the left-hand column, and the figures on a line with it in the column headed 70, we find to be 77.58. This shows that we must add 77.58, or a trifle over 77-J- gallons of water to 100 gallons of our 70 per cent, alcohol, to pro- duce a spirit of 40 per cent, strength. 61 . Baume's Hydrometer for Liquids Lighter than Water. In Baume's hydrom- eter for liquids lighter than water, the instru- ment is poised, so that the of the scale is at the bottom of the stem, when it is floating in a solution of 1 ounce common salt in 9 ounces wa- ter, and the depth to which it sinks in distilled water shows the 10th degree; the space be- tween these fixed points being equally divided. 62. Table showing the Specific Grav- ity corresponding with the several degrees of materials. This variety of Baum6's hydrom- eter is usually called a saccharomater, and whenplungedin pure water at58 Fahr., marks upon its scale; in a solution containing 15 per cent, of common salt and 85 of water by weight, it marks 15; so that each degree on the scale is meant to indicate a density cor- responding to the percentage of the salt. The temperature at which Baume's hydrom- eter was originally adjusted was 54 Fahr.; it is now commonly adjusted to 58 or 60 Fahr.; hence arise the discrepancies observa- ble in the published tables of the "correspond- ence between degrees of Baume's and real specific gravities." 65. Table showing the Specific Grav- ity corresponding with the several degrees of Baume's Hydrometer for liquids heavier than ivater. Baume's Hydrometer for liquids lighter than Degrees of Specific Degrees of Specific water. Baume. Gravity. Baume. Gravity. Degrees Specific Degrees Specific 1000 39 1372 Baume Gravity. Baume j Gravity. 1 1007 40 1384 60 .745 34 .859 2 3 1014 1022 41 42 1398 1412 59 .749 33 .864 4 1029 43 1426 58 .753 32 .869 5 1036 44 1440 57 .757 31 .874 6 1044 45 1454 56 .760 30 .880 7 1052 46 1470 55 .764 29 .885 8 1060 47 1485 54 .768 28 .890 9 1067 48 1501 53 .773 27 .896 10 1075 49 1516 52 .777 26 .901 11 1083 50 1532 51 .781 25 .907 12 1091 51 1549 50 .785 24 .913 13 1100 52 1566 49 .789 23 -918 14 1108 53 1583 48 .794 22 .924 15 1116 54 1601 47 .798 21 .930 16 1125 55 1618 46 .802 20 .936 17 1134 56 1637 45 .807 19 .942 18 1143 57 1656 44 .811 18 .948 19 1152 58 1676 43 .816 17 .954 20 1161 59 1695 42 .820 16 .960 21 1171 60 1715 41 .825 15 .967 22 1180 61 1736 40 .830 14 .973 23 1190 62 1758 39 .834 13 .980 24 1199 63 1779 38 .839 12 .986 25 1210 64 1801 37 .844 11 .993 26 1221 65 1823 36 .849 10 1.000 27 1231 66 1847 35 .854 28 1242 67 1872 63. Baume's Hydrometer for Liquids Heavier than Water. In the hydrometer for liquids heavier than water, the position of the fixed points is reversed; for the is at 29 30 31 32 1252 1261 1275 1286 68 69 70 71 1897 1921 1946 1974 the top of the stem, and denotes the level to which the hydrometer sinks in distilled water: the 10th degree is lower down, and shows the level to which it sinks in the saline solution, and the graduation is continued downwards. 33 34 35 36 37 1298 1309 1321 1334 1346 72 73 74 75 76 2002 2031 2059 2087 2116 64. Baume's Areometer, or Sacchar- 38 1359 ometer for Liquids Heavier than Water. This instrument is generally in use in this 66. To Convert Degrees Baume into country and iu France, when it is necessary to ascertain the strength or density of a li- Specific Gravity. I. For liquids heavier than water. Subtract the degree of Baume quid heavier than water. In England, Twad- from 145, and divide into 145; the quotient is del's hydrometer is mostly employed for the purpose. Baume's instrument is principally used by confectioners to test the density of the specific gravity. II. For liquids lighter than water. Add the degree of Baume to 130, and divide it into syrup; also by brewers and distillers to dis- 140; the quotient is the specific gravity. cover the quantity of saccharine matter in wort; and by soap manufacturers and dyers 67. To Convert Specific Gravity into Degrees Baume. I. For liquids heavier to prove the strength of their lyes and dyeing than water. Divide the specific gravity into 28 ACETIMETRY. 145, and subtract from 145; the remainder is the decree of Baume. II. For liquids lighter than water. Divide the specific gravity into 140 and subtract 130 from the quotient; the remainder will be the degree of Baume. 68. Twaddell's Hydrometer. This Hydrometer is much used in the bleaching and dyeing establishments in Scotland, and some parts of England. According to this scale is equal to 1000, or the specific gravity of distilled water, and every additional 5 de- grees of specific gravity adds 1 degree. to Twaddell's scale. So that, in order to find the specific gravity corresponding to any degree of Twaddell's scale, multiply the degree by 5 and a.dd 1000; thus, if this hydrometer shows 30, 30 multiplied by 5 gives 150, and 1000 added makes 1150, the specific gravity. To find the degree of Twaddell corresponding to any specific'gravity, deduct 1000 from the specific gravity, and divide the remainder by 5; the quotient will be the corresponding de- gree of Twaddell. Thus, if it be required to find the degree of Twaddell corresponding to 1150 specific grav- ity, deduct 1000 from 1150, and divide the remainder, 150, by 5, and the quotient, 30, gives the degrees of Twaddell required. In this way the corresponding degrees of Twaddell and Baume can easily be found. Thus, 31 degrees of Baum6 are equivalent to a specific gravity of 1275; and this, according to the above rule, will give 55 degrees Twaddell. By reversing this process, Twaddell can as readily be reduced to Baume 1 . The art of deter- mining the strength of acetic acid and vinegar. Several methods are employed for the purpose, based on the quantity of acid required for saturation; the specific grav- ity ai'ter the liquid has been neutralized with hydrate of lime; and the simple specific gravity. In all these methods, account should be taken of any mineral acid which may have been added, as is common with vinegars, to impart artificial strength. 70. To find the Comparative Weights of Dry and Glacial Acetic Acid. As both dry and glacial (or hydratcd) acetic acid are referred to in many places, in speaking of strengths, it may be convenient to know that 51 parts of dry acetic acid are equal to 60 parts of glacial. (See No. 81.) Hence the weight of glacial acid multiplied by .8512, gives the weight of dry acid; and the weight of dry acid, multiplied by 1.1748 gives a very close approximation to the weight of glacial acid. 71. Precautions in Testing Acids. It is essential to success, in testing acetic or other acids by saturation, to hit the exact point of neutralization. It will be found greatly to amplify matters to tint with litmus (see No. 78) either the sample under examination, or the test liquid; but when litmus is used, it is advisable to apply a gentle heat to the test tube when saturation appears nearly reached ; the heat will expel from the liquor the free carbonic acid, which itself has the property of reddening litmus. A glass or wooden rod should be used for stirring, and the test liquid added drop by drop. 72. To find the strength of Acetic Acid by its Saturating Power. Dissolve 196 grains pure crystallized bicarbonate of potassa in a little water; add to the solution sufficient water to make up exactly 1000 min- ims, or the 100 divisions of an acidimeter, a graduated glass tube of 100 divisions, each division representing 10 minims. (See illustra- tions, No. 82.) A "solution is thus formed, which, when added by degrees to 100 minims of the acetic acid or vinegar under examina- tion, until the latter is exactly saturated, indicates the exact amount of acid present in the sample. Each minim of the alkaline solu- tion thus employed represents 1 per cent, of dry acetic acid. The test liquid must be added a drop at a time to avoid the risk of loss by excessive effervescence. 73. To find the strength of strong Acetic Acid. If strong acetic acid be under inspection, it will be found convenient, pre- viously to testing it, to dilute it with from 2 to 8 times its weight of distilled water, ac- cording to its degree of concentration. Dilute acid and vinegar require no further dilution. Instead of 196 grains crystallized bicar- bonate of potassa, may be used either 135 grains dry (see No. 12) carbonate of potassa, 281 grains crystallized carbonate of soda, or 104 grains dry carbonate of soda. (See No. 80.) By using 98 grains (half the quantity) of the bicarbonate of potassa, we obtain a still more delicate test liquid; as each minim used for saturating a sample of acid will rep- resent only of 1 per cent, of dry acid. 74. To find the strength of Acetic Acid by Saturation without an Acidi- meter. The foregoing method can also be applied to test by weight, instead of by an acidimeter; 1000 grains of the test liquid are used in testing 100 grains of acid. Every grain of the test liquid necessary to produce saturation indicates j\, grain of dry acid, and every ten grains are equal to 1 per cent. Schuster's alkalirneter is a convenient instru- ment for this process. (See No. 82.) 1000 grains of the test liquid are introduced into the alkalimeter, and the whole weighed; the weight of the bottle and solution, ai'ter using such portion of its contents as is required for testing, deducted from the previous weight of the whole, gives the exact quantity in grains of the solution consumed; this, divided by 10, gives the percentage of acid in the sample tested. This method admits of great accuracy. 75. Practical test of the strength of Acetic Acid. A less accurate, but more convenient method for practical purposes, is as follows: To 100 or 1000 parts (or grains) of a sample under inspection, add cautiously from a weighed quantity of powdered pure dry bicarbonate of potassa, sufficient to pro- duce exact neutralization; carefully re-weigh the bicarbonate unqonsumed. Double the loss in grains will indicate the percentage of acid in the liquid tested. 76. TTre's Test of the strength of Acet- ic Acid. Ure's test gives very accurate re- sults, if the ammonia employed is of the proper specific gravity. To 100 grains of a sample, very slightly reddened with neutral ACIDIMETEY. (blue) tincture of litmus, add liquor of am- monia of specific gravity .992 from an acidime- ter (see No. 82) until perfect neutralization is effected, indicated by the original blue color of the litmus being restored. The number of acidimetric divisions of ammonia expended, . multiplied by 51 (for dry) or by 60 (for glacial) aud the product divided by 100, will give, re- spectively, the percentage of dry or glacial acid in the sample. Thus: if a sample of vinegar takes 10 acidimetric divisions of am- monia to neutralize it, then 10 multiplied by 51, and divided by 100, gives 5.10, equivalent to 5,'f, per cent, of dry acid: or, 10 multi- plied by 60 and divided by 100, gives 6 per cent, of glacial or hydra ted acid in the sample. 77. Tire's Test, by Grains, of the strength of Acetic Acid. The same strength of ammonia is to be used in the acidimeter as in the preceding test, and the number of grain-measures of ammonia em- ployed for a multiplier instead of acidimetric divisions. The only difference is, that the product in each case must be divided by 1000 instead of 100, to give the percentage of acid. The estimation of the quantity of an acid contained in any given sample. The methods used are founded chiefly on the capacity of acids to saturate or neutralize alkaline bases; and, in some of the liquid acids, on specific gravity. The accuracy of the tests, when satura- tion is resorted to, depends greatly on the exact point of neutralization, as already re- marked under the head of Acetimetry. The proper point is arrived at when the liquid, af- ter being slightly heated, ceases to redden litmus, or does not alter the color of turmeric paper (see Test Papers) ; if it turns the lat- ter brown, too much test-liquid has been added, and the operation becomes useless. A good method is to tint either the acid sam- ple or the test-liquid with a few drops of lit- mus (see No. 71), when the reddish shade will gradually deepen to purple as the point of saturation is approached, and the blue color be restored as soon as that point is reached. 79. To test the strength of an Acid by Saturation. Place in a test tube 100 grains of the acid to bo examined ; if the acid be liquid, dilute it if solid, dissolve it in 6 or 8 times its weight of distilled water. Then exactly neutralize ii with an alkali added drop by drop. Tho known quantity of alkali con- sumed for this purpose represents an equiv- alent quantity of the actual acid contained in the test tube. The common practice is to dissolve 1 equivalent (see No. 80) of an alka- line test in water, and to make up the solu- tion to 1000 grains (100 acidimetric divisions). The equivalent value of the test-liquid is then 100; hence, the quantity of the sample tested will bear the same proportion to the equiva- lent number (see No. 81) of the acid under ex- amination, that the acidimetric divisions o: the test-liquid consumed, bear to the percent- age of acid sought. For example : Suppose LOO grains of a sample of sulphuric acid re quire 60 acidimetric divisions (600 grains) of the test-bquid to neutralize them; what is the percentage of the acid T The equivalent of dry sulphuric acid is 40 (see N,o. 81) ; herefore by the rule of proportion, since 100 : 40 : : 60 : 24, the sample contains 24 per ent. of dry sulphuric acid. In this method the choice of the re-agent must depend on the operator. Some prefer ;he ammonia test (see No. 76), which is very :onvenient and easily applied ; others give a ^reference to bicarbonates or carbonates of po- ;assa or soda. Whichever be adopted, it must je perfectly pure. A test solution, once care- ully prepared of the proper strength, may bo iept unharmed for any length of time in a stoppered bottle, and will be always ready for application. 80. Table of Equivalents of Alkalis, GRAINS. Pure ammonia 17 Dry carbonate of soda 53 Crystallized carbonate of soda 143 Crystallized bicarbonate of soda. . 84 Dry carbonate of potassa 69 Crystallized carbonate of potassa. 87 Crystallized bicarbonate of potassa 100 Pure or caustic soda 31 Pure or caustic potash 47 Sesquicarbonate of soda 85 Neutral carbonate of ammonia.. 43 Sesquicarbonate of ammonia 59 Bicarbonate of ammonia 79 1000 grain measures of pure water of am- monia of specific gravity .992, contain 17 grains or 1 equivalent of pure gaseous ammo- nia. It is understood that all crystals must be perfectly free from attached water, but not in the least effloresced. 81. Table of Equivalents of Acids. This table is based on the foregoing table of alkalis; so that, for instance, 1 equivalent (17 grains) of pure ammonia will exactly neutral- ize 1 equivalent (22 grains) dry carbonic acid, &c. CHAINS. Anhydrous acetic acid 51 Hyd rated or crystallized acetic acid... 60 Dry benzoic acid 113 Crystallized benzoic acid 122 Dry boracic acid 35 Crystallized boracic acid 62 Dry carbonic acid 22 Dry citric acid 58 Crystallized citric acid 67 Dry hydrochloric acid 36^ Liquid hydrochloric acid (sp.gr.1.16) . . 109 Dry malic acid 58 Dry nitric acid 54 Liquid nitric acid (sp. gr. 1.5) 67 " " " (sp. gr.1.42) 90 Dry oxalic acid 36 Crystallized oxalic acid 63 Dry sulphuric acid 40 Liquid sulphuric acid (sp. gr. 1.845.. . 49 Dry tartaric acid 66 Crystallized tartaric acid 75 82. Acidimeter. An acidimeter is a glass tube, graduated with 100 divisions, each division representing 10 grains of dis- tilled water, termed grain measures. The acidimeter is used for testing acids and alka- lis, and is usually furnished with a lip for con- venience in pouring by drops. Where great delicacy is required in pouring or dropping, 3O AL'KALIMETRY. THE THERMOMETER. various appliances are resorted to, by which the outward flow can be instantly arrested, merely by placing the finger or thumb on an orifice arranged for the ingress of air. In the illustrations, c denotes the place of egress for Fig. 1. Fig. 2. Fig. 3. Fig. 4. the contained liquid ; b, the orifice for the in- gress of air, to be stopped by the finger or thumb ; in Fig. 2, both orifices are in a hol- low movable stopper; in Fig. 4, the air-hole only is in the stopper, a. Fig. 1 represents Gay Lussac's Pouret. Fig. 2, Normandy's modification of Schus- ter's Alkalimeter. Fig. 3, Birck's Alkalimeter. Fig. 4 is a simple acidimeter, with a stop- per fitted to it, having a groove to correspond with the lip, and a vent-hole drilled through it to admit the ah-. These modifications of the simple acidime- ter are employed to allow of the test-liquid be- ing added a single drop at a time, which is absolutely necessary during the first part of the process, to prevent undue effervescence, and consequent danger of loss of the liquid ; and in the latter part it is equally indispensa- ble in order to attain exact saturation. They dispense with the use of a separate pipette, being, in fact, acidimeters and pipettes com- bined. Alkalimetry. _/~\_ estimating the sti The method of strength of alkalis. The processes used are the same as in acidimetry; only that the unknown quantity sought is an alkali, and the test applied is an acid. The test acid is 1 equivalent (40 grains, see No. 81) of sulphuric acid sp. gr. 1.032 at 60 Fahr. inserted in an acidimeter (see No. 82) and made up with distilled water to 100 acidimetric divisions. 84. To find the strength of an Alkali. Place 100 grains of the alkali in a tube, and agitate it with about ounce hot water. When settled, pour off' the clear into a vessel for trial, liepeat this process until nothing soluble remains in the test tube, shown by the last washing not affecting the color of turmeric paper. Care must be taken not to waste the smallest portion of the liquid, as it would render the results inaccurate. Next, exactly neutralize the alkaline solution by adding sufficient of the test acid drop by drop. If the saturation is complete, it will neither turn litmus paper red, nor turmeric paper brown. (Sec No. 78.) The weight of alkali tested, bears the same relation to its equivalent weight (see No. 80), that the acidi- metric divisions of acid used, do to the percent- age of alkali sought. Thus: If we test 100 grains of potash and find it requires 35 acidimetric divisions of test acid to saturate it, wo refer to table No. 80, and find that the equivalent of pure potash is 47 grains. Then 100 : 47 : : 35 : 16.45. That is, the sample of potash under exam- ination contains nearly 16-J- per cent, of pure potash. (See No. 587") The Thermometer, in Fahrenheit's Thermometer, which is universally employed in this country and Great Britain, the. freezing point of water is placed at 32, and the boiling point at 212 and the number of intervening degrees is 180. The Centigrade thermometer, which has long been used in Sweden under the name of Celsius' thermometer, and is now employed on the continent of Europe generally, marks the freezing point at Zero or 0, and the boil- ing point at 100. In Reaumur's thermometer, used in France before the revolution, the freezing point is Zero, and the boiling point 80. Degrees below zero are distinguished by prefixing the minus sign, thus ; so that 17 Fahr. represent a temperature of 17 C lower than zero, equivalent to 49 degrees below freezing point. 86. To Convert degrees of Centi- grade into degrees of Fahrenheit. Mul- tiply the degrees of Centigrade by 9, and di- vide the result by 5: then add 32. Thus: to find the degrees of Fahrenheit equivalent to 30 degrees of Centigrade. 30 degrees Centigrade. Multiplied by 9 Divided by 5)270 54 Add 32 Answer, 86 degrees Fahrenheit. 87. To reduce degrees of Fahrenheit to the corresponding degrees of Centi- grade. Reverse the above process First deduct 32 from the degrees of Fahrenheit, then multiply the difference by 5, and lastly divide the result by 9. Thus, 86 degrees Fahrenheit. Deduct 32 54 Multiplied by 5 Divided by 9)270 Answer. 30 degrees Centigrade. THE ART OF DYEING. 31 88. To Reduce degrees of Reaumur to the corresponding degrees of Fahren- heit. Multiply the degrees of Reaumur by 9, divide the result by 4, end then add 32. Thus, 24 Reaumur. Multiplied by 9 Divided by 4)216 Add 54 32 Answer, 86 Fahrenheit. 89. To reduce degrees of Fahrenheit to corresponding degrees of Reaumur. Reverse the above process. 90. To reduce degrees of Reaumur to Centigrade. Add to the degrees of Reaumur their one-fourth part. Thus, 40 Reaumur. Add one-fourth, 10 Answer 50 Centigrade. 91. To reduce degrees of Centigrade to Reaumur. Deduct one-fifth part. Thus, 50 centigrade Deduct one-fifth 10 Answer, 40 Reaumur. 92. Table of corresponding degrees of Fahrenheit, Reaumur and the Centi- grade. Fahrenheit. Reaumur. Centigrade. Boiling. 212 80 100 203 76 95 194 72 90 185 68 85 176 64 80 167 60 75 158 56 70 149 52 65 140 48 60 131 44 55 122 40 50 113 36 45 104 32 40 95 28 35 86 24 30 77 20 25 68 16 20 59 12 15 50 8 10 41 4 5 Freezing. 32 23 4 5 14 8 10 5 12 15 4 16 20 13 20 25 22 24 30 31 28 35 40 32 40 All intermediate degrees can be obtained by the preceding rules. The Art of Dyeing. The art of fixing coloring matters uniformly and permanently in the fibres of wool, silk, linen, cotton, and other substances. Dyeing is a chemical process, and the mode of its per- formance depends upon the substance opera- ted on. Thus it is found that the process by which wool is dyed black, would only impart a rusty browfi to linen. Wool unites with almost all coloring matters with great facility, silk in the next degree, cotton less easily than silk, and linen with even more difficulty. Preparatory to the operation of dyeing, each of these substances undergoes a species of preparation to free the fibres from adhering foreign matter, as dirt, grease, the picture out of the frame, take a clean towel, and, making it quite wet, lay it on the face of the picture, sprinkling it from time to time with clean soft water; let itremainwetfor 2 or 3 days ; take the cloth off and renew it with a fresh one. After wiping the picture with a clean wet sponge, repeat the process till you find all the dirt is soaked out of it; then wash with a soft sponge, and let it get quite dry ; rub it with some clear nut or lin- seed oil, and it will look as well as when freshly done. 407. To Clean Oil Paintings. Put into 2 quarts of strong lye, | pound of Genoa soap, rasped very fine, with 1 pint spirits of wine ; let them simmer on the fire for half an hour, then strain them through a cloth. Ap- ply the preparation with a brush to the pic- ture, wipe it off with a sponge, and apply it a second time, which will remove all dirt. Then with a little nut-oil warmed, rub the picture and let it dry. This will make it look as bright as when it came out of the artist's hands. If the canvas is injured by damp, mil- dew or foul air, the first thing to be done is to stretch and line it with new canvas. 408. To Clean Japanned Waiters and Urns. Hub on with a sponge a little white soap and some lukewarm water, and wash the waiter or urn quite clean. Never use hot wa- ter, as it will cause the japan to scale off. Having wiped it dry, sprinkle a little flour over it; let it rest a while, and then rub it with a soft dry cloth, and finish with a silk handkerchief. If there are white heat marks on the waiters, they will be difficult to re- move ; but you may try rubbing them with a flannel dipped in sweet oil, and afterwards in spirits of wine. "Waiters and other articles of papier mache should be washed with a sponge and cold water, without soap, dredged with flour while damp, and after a while wiped off, and then polished with a silk handkerchief. 409. Method of Cleaning Paper Hang- ings. Cut into 8 portions a loaf of bread 2 days old; it must neither be newer nor sta- ler. "With one of these pieces, after having blown off all the dust from the paper to be i cleaned, by the means of a good pair of bel- lows, begin at the top of the room, holding the crust in the hand, and wiping lightly down- ward with the crumb, about half a yard at each stroke, till the upper part of the paper is completely cleaned all round. Then go round again, with the like sweeping stroke down- wards, always commencing each successive course a little higher than the upper stroke had extended, till the bottom be finished. This operation, if carefully performed, will frequently make very old paper look almost equal to new. Great caution must be used not by any means to rub the paper hard, nor to attempt cleaning it the cross or horizontal way. The dirty part of the bread, too, must be continually cut away, and the pieces re- newed as soon as may become necessary. 410. To take Grease Stains out of Wall Papers. Oil marks, and marks where neople have rested their heads, can be taken from the paper on drawing-room walls by mixing pipe-clay with water to the consist- ency of cream, laying it on the spot, and let- ting it remain till the following day, when it may be easily removed with a penknife or brush. 411. To take Grease from Paper. Gently warm the parts containing the grease, and apply blotting-paper so as to extract as much as possible. Boil some clear essential oil of turpentine and apply it to the warm paper with a soft clean brush. A little recti- fied spirits of wine should be put over after- ward. 412. To take out Stains of Ink from Books. Oxyinuriatic acid removes, per- fectly, stains of ink ; and should the paper re- quire bleaching, the operation will answer both ends at the same time. Nearly all the acids will remove spots of ink from paper ; but it is important to use such as do t not at- tack its texture. Spirits of salt (muriatic acid) diluted in 5 or 6 times the quantity of water, may be applied with success upon the spot, and after a minute or two, washing it off with clean water. A solution of oxalic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid, is attended with the least risk, and may be applied upon the paper and plates without fear of damage. These acids taking out writing ink, and not touching the printing, can be used for restor- ing books where the margins have been writ- ten upon, without attacking the text. 413. To Remove Yellow Stains from the Margins of Engravings. The yellow stains on the margin of engravings may be removed by a solution of hydrochloride of soda. This liquid is commonly known under the name of Labarraque's solution. 414. To Clean Silver or Gold Lace. Lay the lace smooth on a woolen carpet or piece of woolen cloth, and brush it free from dust, then bum rock alum and powder it fine, and afterwards sift it through a lawn sieve ; then rub it over the lace with a fine brush, and in so doing it will take off the tarnish and restore it to its brightness, if it be not too much worn on the threads. 415. To Clean Papier Mache. Papier mach6 articles should be washed with a sponge and cold water, without soap, dredged with flour while damp, and polished with a flannel. 416. To Clean Hair Brushes and Combs. Wash the bristles for a few seconds TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS. 55 in a weak solution of hartshorn, say a table spoonful to a pint of cold soft water. Then rinse in clean cold water, and dry. Do no set them near the fire, nor in the sun, to dry but, after shaking them well, set them on th point of the handle in a shady place. Bythi process the brush will be thoroughly cleanse! with very little trouble. Observe that th mahogany or satin-wood back of the brusl must be kept out of the solution, as it is ap to discolor wood. Combs may be cleaned in the same manner. 417. To Clean Looking Glasses Take part of a newspaper, ibid it small, dip i in a basin of clean cold water, and when it ii thoroughly wet squeeze it out as a sponge, ant then rub it hard over the face of the { / taking care that it is not so wet as to run down in streams. After the glass has been wel rubbed with the wet paper, let it rest a few minutes and then go over it with a fresh dry newspaper, till it looks clear and bright, which it will do almost immediately. The inside 01 windows may be cleaned in this way, and they will look beautifully clear. 418. To Clean Straw Matting. Wash it with weak salt and water and dry it well, or boil a small bag of bran in 2 gallons of wa- ter, and wash the matting with the water, drying it well. 419. To Clean Cane-Bottom Chairs. Turn up the chair bottom, and with hot wa- ter and a sponge wash the canework well, so that it may become completely soaked. Should it be very dirty you must add soap. Let it dry in the open air if possible, or in a place where there is a thorough draught, and it will become as tight and firm as when new, provided it has not been broken. 420. To Clean Sheepskin Rugs or Mats. Make a very strong lather, by boil- ing soap in a little water; mix this with a suf- ficient quantity of water (rather more than lukewarm) to wash the mat or rug in, and rub boiled soap on those portions of it which require additional cleansing. "When the mat has been well washed in this water, prepare another lather in the same way, in which a second washing must take place, followed by a third, which ought to be sufficient to cleanse it thoroughly. Einse it well in cold water until all the soap is removed, and then put it in water in which a little blue has been mixed, sufficient to keep the wool of a good white, and prevent its inclining to yellow. After this it should be thoroughly wrung, shaken, and hung out in the open air with the skin part towards the sun, but not while it is scorching, otherwise the skin will become hard. It must also be shaken often while drying, for if not, it will be quite stiff and crackly. It should be frequently turned, being hung up first by one end and then by the other, until it has dried entirely. 421. To Clean Knives and Forks. Procure a smooth board, free from knots, or one covered with leather. If the latter, melt a sufficient quantity of mutton-suet, and put it hot upon the leather with a piece of flannel; then take two pieces of soft Bath brick, and rub them one against the other over the leath- er till it is covered with the powder, which rub in until no grease comes through when a knife is passed over the leather, which may easily be known oy the knife keeping its pol- ish. If only a plain board, rub the Bath brick 2 or 3 times over it ; if too much be put on at once it will make the blades of the knives look rough and scratched. Let the board bo of a proper height, and set so that the person may be a little on the stoop while cleaning the knives. Take a knife in each hand, holding them back to back ; stand opposite the mid- dle of the board ; lay the knives flat upon it, and do not bear too hard upon them ; by this method it will be easier to clean two knives at a time than one, and they will bo less liable to be broken, for good knives will snap when pressed on too heavily. Many will say that they cannot clean two knives at once, or that they can get through them faster one by one : but if they will only try it a few times in the way recommended, they will find it not only much more expeditious, but easier. A little practice is all that is necessary. The best way to clean steel forks is to fill a small barrel with fine gravel, brick dust, or sand, mixed with a little hay or moss; make it moderately damp, press it well down, and let it always be kept damp. By running the prongs of the steel forks a few times into this, all the stains on them will be removed. Then have a small stick, shaped like a knife, with leather round it, to polish between the prongs, having first carefully brushed the dust from them as soon as they are taken out of the tub. A knife-board is often spoiled in clean- ng forks upon it, and likewise the backs of the knives ; to prevent this, have a piece of old hat or leather put on the board where the forks and backs of the knives are cleaned. 422. To Preserve Knives and Forks xi Good Condition. Wipe the knives and brks as soon as possible after being used, as the longer they are left with grease and stains on them the harder they will be to clean ; >articularly if they have been used for acids, salads, tarts, etc.; have then a jug of hot wa- ;er ready to put them into as soon as done with, and wipe them as before directed. In order to keep knives and forks in good ondition when they are not in use, rub the steel part with a flannel dipped in oil ; wipe the oil off after a few hours, as there is often water in it; or dust thS blades and prongs with quicklime, finely powdered and kept in a muslin bag. 423. To Clean Spice Mills. It is often lesired to grind different spices, orange or emon peel, in the same mill, without any one >eing affected by another spice. Grind a tea- poonful of rice through the mill and all impu- rities will be removed. A coffee millmaybe fit- ed to grind any spice in the same way, using ather more rice. The rice will of course be .avored by whatever may have been in the mill. It is useful to thicken soups, or gravies, r sauces, when the spice is no objection. 424. To Keep Oil-Cloths Looking Well. Wash them once a month in skim milk and water, equal quantities of each. iub them once in three months with boiled lin- eed oil. Put on very little, rub it well in nth a rag, and polish with a piece of old silk. )il-cloths will last years if kept in this way. 425. To Clean Oil-Cloth. An oil-cloth hould never be scrubbed with a brush, but, fter being first swept, should be cleaned by 56 TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS. washing with a soft flannel and lukewarm or cold water. On no account use soap, or wa- ter that is hot, as either would have a bad ef- fect on the paint. "When the oil-cloth is dry, rub it well with a small portion of a mixture of bees' wax, softened with a minute quantity of turpentine, using for this purpose a soft furniture polishing brush. Oil-cloth cared for in this way will last twice the time than with ordinary treatment. 426. To Give to Boards a Beautiful Appearance. After washing them very nicely with soda and warm water and a brush, wash them with a very large sponge and clean water. Both times observe to leave no spot untouched ; and clean straight up and down, not crossing from board to board ; then dry with clean cloths, rubbed hard up and down in the same way. The floors should not be often wetted, but very thoroughly when done ; and once a week dry-rubbed with hot sand and a heavy brush, the right way of the boards. The sides of stairs or passages on which are carpets or floor-cloth, should be washed with sponge instead of linen or flannel, and the edges will not be soiled. Different sponges should be kept for the above two uses ; and those and the brushes should be well washed when done with, and kept in dry places. 427. To Scour Boards. Lime, 1 part ; sand, 3 parts; soft soap, two parts. Lay a little on the boards with a scrubbing-brush, and rub thoroughly. Einse with clean wa- ter and rub dry. This will keep the boards of a good color, and will also keep away vermin. 428. To Clean Stone Stairsand Halls. Boil 1 pound of pipe-clay with a quart water, and a quart small beer, and put in a bit of stone-blue. Wash with this mixture, and, when dry, rub the stone with flannel and a brush. 429. To Clean Glass Globes. If the globes are much stained on the outside by smoke, soak them in tolerably hot water with a little washing soda dissolved in it; then put a tea-spoonful of powdered ammonia into a pan of lukewarm water, and with a tolerably hard brush wash the globes till the smoke stain disappears; riflse in clean cold water, and let them drain till dry; they will be quite as white and clear as new globes. 430. To Clean Decanters. There is often much difficulty experienced in cleaning decanters, especially after port wine has stood in them for some time. The best way is to wash them out with a little pearlash and warm water, adding a spoonful or two of fresh slaked lime if necessary. To facilitate the action of the fluid against the sides of the glass, a few small cinders may be used. Or, soak the decanters for some hours in warm soda and water ; if there is much cut- ting on the outside, a brush will be necessary to remove the dirt and stains from the crev- ices. Cut a potato into small dice, put a good handful of these into the decanter with some warm water, shake the decanter briskly until the stains disappear ; rinse in clean cold water, and let them drain until dry. Vinegar and sauce cruets can be cleaned in the same way. 431. To Clean Glass Bottles. Chop up a large potato very fine and put it in the bottle with some warm water, and shake it rapidly until it is clean. Some use shot and soda, but potato is even more effectual. 432. To Clean Medicine Phials. Cleanse bottles that have had medicines in them, by putting ashes in each, immersing them in cold water, and then heating the wa- ter gradually till it boils. After boiling an hour, let them remain in the water till it is cold. "Wash them in soap-suds, and riuse them till clean in clear water. 433. To Wash Castor Bottles. Put them full of rice and fill up with warm water; shake them well; this will cleanse them thoroughly. 434. To Clean Greasy Earthenware. Stone pots and jars in which lard or fat has been kept, and yellow ware pie plates, may be cleaned by putting them in a kettle with ashes or sal soda, covering them with cold water, and allowing them to boil slowly an hour at least. When boiled enough, take them off the fire and leave them in the water until it cools. 435. To Clean Paint. There is a very simple method to clean paint that has become dirty, and if our housewives should adopt it, it would save them a great deal of trouble. Provide a plate with some of the best whit- ing to be had, and have ready some clean warm water and a piece of flannel, which dip into the water and squeeze nearly dry ; then take as much whiting as will adhere to it, ap- ply it to the painted surface, when a little rubbing will instantly remove any dirt or grease. After which wash the part well with clean water, rubbing it dry with a soft cha- mois. Paint thus cleaned looks as well as when first laid on, without any injury to the most delicate colors. It is far better than using soap, and does not require more than half the time and labor. Another simple method is as follows : put a table-spoonful of aqua ammonia in a quart of moderately hot water, dip in a flannel cloth, and with this merely wipe over the wood- work ; no scrubbing will be necessary. 436. To Clean Varnished Paint. Boil a pound of bran in 1 gallon of water an hour, and wash the paint with the bran water. 437. To Clean Soiled Bibbons and Silks. A mixture of alcohol and highly rectified benzine is excellent for cleaning rib- bons and silks. It is applied with a clean sponge. Persons who apply these liquids and mixtures to cleaning silks, &c., must be care- ful to do so in an apartment where there is neither fire nor lamp burning, under the pen- alty of an explosion. (See No. 346.) 438. To B,emove Stains from Kid Gloves. Stains may be removed, even from the most delicately colored gloves, by sus- pending them for a day in an atmosphere of ammonia. Provide a tall glass cylinder, in the bottom of which place strong aqua ammonia. Be careful to remove from the sides of the jar any ammonia that may have been spattered upon them. Suspend the gloves to the stop- per in the jar. They must not come in con- tact with the liquid. 439. To Clean Kid Gloves. Dr. Eei- mann gives the following directions, in the Scientific American, for cleaning kid gloves: TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS. 57 A bottle 2 feet high, and 1 to 1 feet wide, the stopper of which is also made of glass, is filled with 2 pounds of benzine. Then the gloves which are to be washed are put also into the bottle. On this account the neck of the bottle must be very wide, perhaps from to foot in diameter. Such bottles are easily obtained, being much used in pharmacy. As many gloves may be introduced into the bot- tle as the liquid will cover. The bottle is then closed, well shaken, and allowed to stand some minutes. The shaking is repeated, the bottle opened, and the gloves taken out with a pair of iron forceps. To prevent the possibility of there being any smell, it is a good plan to open the bottle under a good chimney, which thus carries off all the vapor that escapes. The gloves, when brought by the forceps to the mouth of the bottle, are taken out, one after the other, by the hand, and wrung out, care being taken that the superfluous liquid runs back again into the bottle. It is highly advisable to perform this operation under a chimney, or the workman will soon suffer from the injurious influence of the volatile hydrocarbon. Under the chimney is placed a cord stretch- ed between two pins, and the gloves are hung upon this by means of small S-shaped hooks. After hanging a short time they will be dry. The benzine contained in the bottle dis- solves all the grease which adheres to the loves, and the dirt which had been com- ined with the grease is consequently re- moved at the same time. The benzine re- maining in the bottle assumes a dirty gray color during the process of washing. "When the benzine has become too dirty, it is put into a distilling apparatus, and distilled over. Jn this way the benzine is restored to its original purity and whiteness, so that it can be used again in further operations. ( For directions how to accomplish this, see next re- ceipt.) The gloves, when taken out of the bottle, are often not quite clean, in which case it is necessary to rub them with a rag, moistened with benzine, in all places where they are still dirty. Thus the last traces of dirt are removed, and the gloves become perfectly clean. In this state they may be hung on a cord under the chimney. The gloves soon become dry, but a part of the benzine still remains behind, which is less volatile, and which, when the glove is in con- tact with the warm hand, causes a strong odor of benzine to be evolved. To remove this also, the gloves are placed on a common plate, which is put upon an iron pot containing boiling water. The first plate is covered with a second, and the gloves be- tween the two plates are heated at the boiling temperature of water, until the last traces of the unvolatilized benzine have escaped. The gloves are now removed from the plate, and put upon a wooden glove-stretcher, or shape. In this way they are made to resume then- original form, and are now ready for use. The whole operation must be so conducted that no smell of benzine is perceptible. The smell of benzine is always a sign of careless- ness on the part of the workman, who can readily conduct all the benzine vapors up the chimney. (Sec No. 346.) 440. To He-Distill and Purify Ben- zine that has been used for Cleaning Kid Gloves. If the operation of distilling the benzine is disagreeable to the glove maker, he can have it purified at the apothecary's or chemist's. It is, however, an operation which he can readily perform himself The apparatus is neither complicated nor expensive. A small wooden pail, such as is used in every establishment, is furnished with two holes. The first of these is drilled near the upper margin of the pail, so that, when the pail is filled with water, the water runs out through the hole, until the surface of the water within the pail is on a level with the lowest portion of the hole, that is to say, just below the upper margin of the vessel. On the opposite side of the pail another hole is made, but this time near its bottom, so that water would run through this hole, until the surplus of the contained water was within a short distance of the bottom. A leaden tube, the thickness of which equals the diameter of the hole, is bent so as to form a distilling worm, the upper end of which is inserted into the upper opening, and the lower end into the lower hole. The tube is tightly inserted into both holes, so that no water can run through the space between the tube and the hole. The pail is then filled with cold water. ' The upper and lower ends of the leaden tube must project a little beyond the outer surface of the pail perhaps two inches. The lower end is bent downward a little. The upper end is a little enlarged, so that the tube forms a sort of funnel above. In this is inserted a glass retort, conve- niently fixed in a holder. The space between the neck of the retort and the enlarged end of the leaden tube is conveniently filled with moistened cotton, so that no vapors can escape through it. It is a good plan to employ a glass retort with a tube, so that any fluid can be poured into it when the apparatus is already fixed. Having placed the retort on a vapor bath, where it can be heated at 212 Fahr., the neck of the retort is connected with the worm, as above mentioned, and the pail filled up with cold water. The retort is then filled with the impure benzine or petroleum essence which has been used in washing gloves. After pouring in the benzine, the tube of the retort is closed by a stopper, and then the apparatus is completed by a bottle placed un- der the lower end of the leaden tube, which projects beyond the outer surface of the pail, so that the liquid running down this flows directly into the bottle. The vapor bath is now heated, the retort soon becomes warm, and the volatile liquid begins to distill over, either quickly or slowly, according to the way in which the heating process is conducted. The vapor of the hydrocarbon condenses in the worm, and a stream of liquid flows out of its mouth. In a short time there remains behind in the retort only the grease which the benzine has extracted from the gloves. 58 TO REMOVE .STAINS AND SPOTS. 441. To Refine Ox-gall for Fixing Chalk and Pencil Drawings, and Re- moving Grease. Allow fresh ox- gall to re- pose for 12 or 15 hours, decant the clear, and evaporate to the consistence of a thick syrup, in a water bath; then spread it thinly 'on a dish, and expose it before the fire, or to a cur- rent of dry air, until nearly dry. It will then keep lor years in wide-mouthed bottles or pots, covered over with bladder. For use, a little is dissolved in water. Or: fresh gall, 1 pint; boil, skim, add pound- ed alum, 1 ounce; boil again until the alum is dissolved, and when sufficiently cool, pour it into a bottle, and loosely cork 'it down ; in a similar manner boil and skim another pint of gall, and add to it 1 ounce of common salt; boil till dissolved, and cool and bottle as above. In three months decant the clear from both bottles, and mix them in equal quantities; the clear portion must then be separated from the coagulum by subsidence or filtration. It is employed by artists to fix chalk and pencil drawings before tinting them, and to remove the greasiness from ivory, tra- cin-g paper, &e. It is also used to extract grease and oil from clothes: for the latter purpose it answers admirably. 442. To Clean Cloth Clothes. Dis- solve 4 ounces washing soda in 1 qjiart boiling water ; when dissolved, add to it 1 moderate sized fresh beefs gall ; lay the garment to be cleaned on a clean table or board, and with a sponge or brush (a brush is the best) wetted in the liquid, rub well the grease spots first, and. afterwards the whole garment, frequently dipping the sponge or brush in the liquid; when sufficiently rubbed, rinse in cold water until the water is clear, then squeeze the wa- ter out thoroughly (but without twisting if possible, use a patent wringer), shake well and hang in the air to dry. While drying, shake the garment occasionally and pull it into shape to prevent shrinking. "When still slightly damp, press it on the wrong side with a warm iron, and then finish airing. Clothes cleaned in this way, if the directions be strictly followed, look almost equal to new. The use of the patent wringing machine is a great improvement in this operation, as it has- tens drying, and prevents shrinking. The editor has used this receipt in his family for the last 15 years with the most satisfactory results. For dark-colored cloth garments, it is a common practice to add some fuller's earth to the mixture of soap and gall. When nearly dry, the nap should be laid right, and the garment carefully pressed, after which, a brush, moistened with a drop or two of olive oil, should be passed over it several times; this will give it a superior finish. 443. To Clean Woolen Clothes. Mix $ ounce sulphuric ether and | ounce hartshorn (ammonia water) with 3 ounces water. Rub the article well with a sponge frequently wetted with the mixture, which will remove the dirt; then sponge with clean -warm wa- ter; next lay a coarse towel, which has been saturated with hot water and wrung out, over the article, and press it with a hot iron ; while the steam is still rising from the cloth, brush it down with a clothes brush. 444. To Clean Carpets. Carpets may be cleaned as follows : Take them up and shake and beat them, so as to render them perfectly free from dust. Have the floor thoroughly scoured and dry, and nail the carpet firmly down upon it. If still much soiled it may be cleaned in the following man- ner : Take a pailful of clean cold spring wa- ter, and put into it about 3 gills of ox-gall. Take another pail with clean cold water only. Now rub with a soft scrubbing brush some of the ox-gall water on the carpet, which will raise a lather. When a convenient sized por- tion is done, wash the lather off with a clean linen cloth dipped in the clean water. Let this water be changed frequently. When all the lather has disappeared, rub the part with a clean dry cloth. After all is done, open the window to allow the carpet to dry. A carpet treated in this way will be greatly refreshed in color, particularly the greens. Any particu- larly dirty spots should be rubbed by nearly pure gall first ; and every spot of grease must be removed from the carpet by the following process : Scrape and pound together, in equal proportion, magnesia in the lump and ful- ler's earth. Having mixed these substances well together, pour on them a sufficient quan- tity of boiling water to make them into a paste. Lay this paste, as hot as possible, upon the grease spots upon the carpet, and let it dry. Next day, when the composition is quite dry, brush it off, and the grease spot will have disappeared. (See No. 357.) 445. To Clean Hearth Rugs and Stair Carpets. Hearth rugs and stair car- pets may be treated in the same manner as given in the last receipt, only that these may be spread and washed upon a table. 446. How to Clean Carpets. Carpets may be washed on tables or on the floor. In either case they must be taken up and well beaten and swept. Grease is taken, out by rubbing hard soap on the spot, and scrubbing it out with a brush dipped in clean coM. water. Each spot must be rubbed dry with a cloth as it is washed. Dissolve a bar of soap in 2 gal- lons of water, by cutting it into the water and heating to a boil. Lay the carpet on the floor and tack it down, or have a heavy board, 3 feet wide by 12 feet long, laid on stout stands, or horses, and throw the carpet over that, keeping a clean board or sheet un- derneath to receive the carpet as it is cleansed. Provide brushes, and a quantity of coarse cotton cloths, flannels, and a large sponge. Take 2 pails filled with blood-warm water, put 2 quarts of the melted soap into one of them to scour the carpet with, and use the other for rinsing. Dip the brush in the soap-suds, and scour a square yard of tho carpet at a time, using as little water as possi- ble, not to soak it through. When the soap has done its work, rub it well out of the carpet with a flannel or coarse sponge, suck- ing up with these all the wet and dirt left by the brash, rinsing the article used in clean water repeatedly. Have ready a pail of clean cold water, with enough sulphuric acid or sharp vinegar in it to taste sour ; dip a clean sponge in this, squeeze and rub it well into the spot just cleansed. Afterward wipe dry with coarse cloths, rinsing and hanging them where they will be dry when the next yard is washed. Finish yard after yard in this way, rubbing each clean and dry as you go. Keep TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS. 59 a good fire in the room to dry the carpet thoroughly. If scoured on a frame, nail the carpet against the side of a house in the sun to dry. This is a tedious, but thorough pro- cess. Hearth rugs may be cleaned in the same "way, beating and brushing them well, and tacking on a large board before washing. Scrub one-sixth of it at a time unless you are expeditious, and dry well with an old sheet. The secret of having carpets look well is to wash and rinse them thoroughly, without soaking them through. Ingrain, tapestry, Brussels, and Turkish carpets are all cleaned in this way. Good authorities recommend a tea-cupful of ox-gall to a pail of soap-suds, rinsing with clean water. (See No. 444.) 447. To Sweep Carpets. Before ap- plying the broom, scatter over the carpet the refuse tea-leaves from the tea-pot. These should be set apart and saved in a pot kept for the purpose, squeezing the water out thor- oughly in the hand. First rub the leaves into the carpet with the broom, and then sweep as usual. This will prevent dust and brighten the colors. Indian meal is recom- mended for this purpose by many experienced housekeepers. 448. To Clean Colored Silks, Moreens, Chintzes, and Printed Cottons. Colored or black silks, moreens, printed cottons, and chintzes, may be cleaned, without injury to their colors, by potato liquor. Grate raw po- tatoes to a fine pulp ; add water in the pro- portion of 1 pint to 1 pound of potatoes ; pass the liquid through a coarse sieve into a vessel, and allow it to remain till the fine white starch subsides to the bottom. Pour off the clear liquor, which is to be used for cleaning. Spread the article to be cleaned upon a table, which should be covered with a linen cloth ; dip a sponge in the liquor, and apply it until the dirt is removed. Then rinse the article in clean cokl water several times. 449. To Clean Old Tapestry on the Wall. Old tapestry is cleaned on the wall, beginning at the top. Melt a bar of good common soap in a gallon of water, and put 1 quart of it in a gallon of cold water. A clothes brush of fine broom straw or long bristles is best to dust with; a soft brush, piece of wash-leather, some flannels, and dry sheets are also needed. Brush all dust from the tapestry first, cleaning the corners well. Dip a flannel in the suds, squeeze it slightly, rub the tapestry to a lather, and brush well with a soft brush. "Wring the flannel out of the soap, and rub the tapestry dry with it and wash-leather ; lastly wiping the whole as dry as possible with a sheet, as it must not be rinsed. Melt 4 ounces of tartaric acid in a pint of boiling water, and add to it 2 gallons of clean water. Squeeze a clean sponge in this acid, and rub it well into the place just cleaned and dried ; then finish with the dry sheet at once before going to the next yard of surface. Renew the suds and rinsing water frequently, as well as the towels, flannels, etc., for everything must be used clean. A good fire should be kept in the room when tepestry is cleaned. "When dry, rub a lump of pipe-clay well into it, and brush it out with a good clothes brush. This takes the soap out and brightens the colors. Worsted work may be cleaned in this way. 450. To Clean Silk and Cotton, or Silk and Worsted Damask, Terry, or Brocatelle Curtains. Silk and cotton, or silk and worsted damask, terry, or brocatelle curtains, are cleaned over a board by scrub- bing with a gallon caniphene and a brush, first dipping the curtain into the camphene, then cleaning on the wrong side, and lastly on the right. Dip it again into the camphene just used, and rinse in the same amount of fresh camphene. Let it drain a minute, then wipe it off with a linen or cotton sheet till all the moisture possible is absorbed, and brush it with a dry brush of soft hair. Hang them in the air a few hours to take away the smell of campheue. 1 gallon is enough for each curtain width. Next roll the curtains in half-dry sheets to damp them; take them out ; brush and rub them ; then iron, with a damp cloth laid over them, and they will look like new. 451. To Clean Worsted Reps. Wors- ted rep sofas, and worsted furniture of any kind, are freshened by dusting damp Indian meal over them, and rubbing off with a stiff brush. Dry bran is said to answer the same purpose, or very light, dry snow, not suffered to melt on the surface. A large sheet should be spread under each piece of furniture, as it is cleaned, to catch the falling litter. 452. To Clean Table-Covers of Cot- ton and Worsted, Silk and Worsted, or Printed Cloth. Dissolve 1 bar of the best mottled soap in 4 gallons of scalding water, with 1 pound of pearlash in it. Have 3 tubs ready, and put in the first, 1 pail of cold wa- ter and 3 gallons of soap liquor ; in the second, 1 pail of cold water and 2 gallons of soap li- quor ; and in the third, 2 pails of cold water and 1 gallon of soap liquor. In another tub have 6 pails of cold water, with a table-spoon- ful of oil of vitriol in it. If the cover is cot- ton and worsted, wash and wring it through the three soap-waters ; rinse it five minutes in the vitriol tub, and wring out of cold, clear water ; fold it up smoothly to drain, and hang it to dry without wringing. For a silk and worsted cover use three soap- waters ; rub it well, and, instead of the vit- riol, put a pound of common salt in 2 pails of water, and work the cloth well in this. Rinse it in 2 cold waters after the salted one, and hang it to dry in a warm room. J/printed cloth wash through three soap- liquors ; if one has a variety of table-cloths, of different mixtures, they may be put through the same suds in the order given in these di- rections, using different rinses for each. Give the printed cloth, after the last soap-liquor, two cold waters, with a table-spoonful of vit- riol in each ; after these, a cold, clear water. Fold and drain it, and dry quickly in a warm room, or the colors will run into one another. To press table-cloths, lay them under a damp sheet, and iron with a heavy iron. 453. To Clean White Jean Boots. If you have not boot-trees, stuff the boot as full as possible with common cotton wadding or old rags, to prevent any creases ; then mix some pipe-clay with water to rather a stiff paste, wash the jean boots with soap and wa- ter and a nail brush, using as little water as possible to get the dirt off'. "When they look tolerably clean, rub the pipe-clay with a flan- 60 TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS. nel well over them and hang them to dry. "When dry, beat out the superfluous clay with the hand and rub them till they look smooth. Flake white may also be used. 454. To Clean White Kid Boots. If the kid boots are not very soiled they may be cleaned in the following manner : Put ^ ounce of hartshorn into a saucer, dip a bit of clean flannel in it and rub it on a piece of white curd soap ; rub the boots with this, and as each piece of flannel becomes soiled, take a fresh piece ; the boots will look like new. 455. To Clean White Satin Shoes. "White satin shoes may be cleaned by rubbing them with stone blue and flannel, and after- wards cleaning them with bread. 456. To Clean Black, and Other Silks, with old Kid Gloves. Cut up a black kid glove in small pieces and pour a pint of boiling water over it. Cover it and let it stand all night where the water will keep warm if possible. In the morning let it boil up, strain it, and add 1 dessert-spoonful of alco- hol. Keep it warm while sponging the silk on the right side and iron immediately on the wrong side. For light silks use white or light kid gloves. It will do without the al- cohol, but is better with it. 457. To Clean Black Silks. Steep a few hours in cold water. Then put J a pint of the Black Eeviver in | a gallon of water, and a cupful of ox-gall. Make hot, and sponge the silk. Dry and smooth with an iron. {See next receipt). Eusty black silk may be cleaned in the same way. Some persons clean black silk by rubbing it with a flannel dipped in gin. 458. Black Reviver, to Restore the Color of Black Silk, Cloth or Leather. Take of blue galls, bruised, 4 ounces ; logwood, copperas, iron filings free from grease, and sumach leaves, each 1 ounce. Put all but the iron filings and copperas into 1 quart good vinegar, and set the vessel containing them in a warm water bath for twenty-four hours, then add the iron filings and copperas and shake occasionally for a week. It should be kept in a well-corked bottle. It may be ap- plied to faded spots with a soft sponge. It is good also to restore the black color of leather when it turns red, the leather being previously well cleaned with soap and water. 459. To Restore Black Silk. To ox- gall, add boiling water sufficient to maRe it warm, and with a clean sponge rub the silk well on both sides ; squeeze it well out, and proceed again in like manner. Einse it in spring water, and change the water till per- fectly clean; dry it in the air, then dip the sponge in glue- water, and rub it on the wrong side ; pin it out on a table, and dry before a fire. 460. To Clean Silks, Satins, Colored Woolen Dresses, &c. 4 ounces of soft soap, 4 ounces of honey, the white of an egg, and a wine-glassful of gin ; mix well together, and scour the article (which must be unpicked, and laid in widths on a kitchen table) with a rather hard brush, thoroughly ; afterwards rinse it in cold water, leave to drain, and iron whilst quite damp, with a piece of thin muslin between it and the iron, or it will be marked on the ironed side. The silk, when laid on the table, must be kept quite smooth, so that every part may come under the brush. "White silk requires a little blue in the water. This receipt is an excellent one. 461. To Raise the Nap on Cloth. Soak in cold water for - an hour, then put on a board, and rub the threadbare parts with a half-worn hatter's card, filled with flocks, or with a prickly thistle, until a nap is raised. Hang up to dry, and with a hard brush lay the nap the right way. 462. To Renovate Black Crape. Skim- milk and water, with a little bit of glue in it, made scalding hot, will restore old rusty black Italian crape. If clapped and pulled dry, like fine muslin, it will look as good as new. 463. To Raise the Pile on Velvet or Plush. Hold the wrong side of the velvet over the steam arising from boiling water, until the pile rises or dampen lightly the wrong side of the velvet and hold it over a pretty hot iron, not hot enough to scorch, how- ever : or, make a clean brick hot, place upon it a wet cloth, and hold the velvet over it, and the steam will raise the plush. 464. To Restore Creased Ribbons. Creased ribbons may be restored by laying them evenly on a board, and with a very clean sponge damping them evenly all over. Then roll them smoothly and tightly on a ribbon block, of greater breadth than the rib- bon, and let them remain until dry. After- wards transfer to a clean dry block. Then wrap in brown paper, and keep untrl wanted. 465. To Wash China Crape Scarfs. If the fabric be good, these articles of dress can be washed as frequently as may be re- quired, and no diminution of their beauty will be discoverable, even when the various shades of green have been employed among other colors in the patterns. In cleaning them, make a strong lather of boiling water, suffer it to cool; when cold, or nearly so, wash the scarf quickly and thoroughly, dip it imme- diately in cold hard water in which a little salt has been thrown (to preserve the colors) ; rinse, squeeze, and hang it out to dry in the open air ; pin it at its extreme edge to the line, so that it may not in any part be folded together. The more rapidly it dries the clearer it will be. 466. To Wash a Black Lace "Veil. Mix bullock's gall with sufficient hot water to make it as warm as you can bear your hand in, and pass the A'eil through it. It must be squeezed, not rubbed ; and it will be well to perfume the gall with a little musk. Einse the veil through two cold waters, tinging the last with a little blue. After drying, put it into some stiffening made by pouring boiling water on a very small piece of glue ; squeeze it out, stretch it, and clap it. Afterwards, pin it out on a linen cloth to dry, laying it very straight and even, and taking care to open and pin the edge very nicely. When dry, iron it on the wrong side, having laid a linen cloth over the ironing blanket. Any article of black lace may be washed in this manner. 467. To Wash White Silk Stockings. Heat some rain or soft water, and while on the fire cut into it slices of good yellow soap, to make a lather ; put the stockings in while the lather is warm, but not scalding, and wash them in two such waters (a wine-glass- ful of gin in the first water is an improve- TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS. 61 ment); rinse them well in lukewarm water, having ready a second rinsing water, in which is mixed a little blue (not the common kind, but such as is used for muslins and laces), or rose pink, which can be procured at the chemist's, and is used in the same way as the blue, by tying it up in a piece of flannel and squeezing it into the water. After rins- ing, put the stockings between towels and let them get almost dry ; place them on a small sheet, lay them out quite flat, as they are when first purchased, tack them to the sheet with a needle and thread, turn the sheet over them, and have them mangled. If it is not convenient to have them mangled (run be- tween weighted rollers), the next best plan is to put four or six stockings one upon the other between a piece of muslin, lay them on a stone doorstep, and beat them with the roll- ing pin. They must not be mangled or beaten in towels, as the pattern of the towels would be impressed on them. If the stockings have lace fronts they will more particularly require the tacking mentioned above to make them look nice. No soda or washing powder of any kind must be put to them, and they must be done quickly, and not left lying about. 468. To Clean Soiled Bed Ticks. Ap- ply starch by rubbing it in thick with a wet cloth, then put the tick in the sun. "When dry, rub it with the hands. If necessary, re- peat the process, and the soiled part will be as clean as new. 469. To Restore the Gloss Finish on Woolen Goods, removed by "Washing. Brush the cloth over, the way of the cloth, with a brush wetted with very weak gum- water ; lay over it a sheet of paper or a piece of cloth, and put it under a weight or in a screw-press until dry. This will restore the original gloss to the dull spot often left after washing out a stain. 470. To Remove Stains from Black Crape and Mourning Dresses. Boil a handful of fig-leaves in 2 quarts of water, un- til reduced to a pint. Squeeze the leaves, strain the liquor, and put it into a bottle for use. Bombazines, crape, cloth, &c., should be rubbed with a sponge dipped in this liquor, and most stains will be instantly removed. 471. To Clean a White Lace Veil. Boil the veil gently for 15 minutes in a solu- tion of white soap ; put it into a basin holding warm water and soap, and keep gently squeez- ing it (do not rub it) till it is clean, and then rinse it from the soap. Then take a vessel of cold water, into which put a drop or two of chemic (see No. 162) or liquid blue ; rinse the veil in it. Have ready some very clear gum arable water, or some thin rice-water. Pass the veil through it. Then stretch it out even, and pin it to dry on a linen cloth, mak- ing the edge as straight as possible; opening out all the scallops, and 'fastening each with pins. When dry, lay a piece of thin muslin smoothly over it, and iron it on the wrong side. 472. To Wash White Silk Lace or Blond. Take a black bottle covered with clean linen or muslin, and wind the blond round it (securing the ends with a needle and thread), not leaving the edge outward, but covering it as you proceed. Set the bottle upright in a strong cold lather of white soap and very clear soft water, and place it in the sun, having gently with your hand rubbed the suds up and down on the lace. Keep it in the sun every day for a week, changing the lather daily, and always rubbing it slightly when you renew the suds. At the end of the week, take the blond off the bottle, and (without rinsing) pin it backward and forward on a large pillow covered with a clean tight case. Every scallop must have a separate pin ; or more, if the scallops are not very small. The plain edge must be pinned down also, so as to make it straight and even. The pins should be of the smallest size. When quite dry, take it off, but do not starch, iron, or press it. Lay it in long loose folds, and put it away in a pasteboard box. Thread lace may be washed in the same manner. 473. To Clean Thread Lace. Thread lace may be cleaned in the same manner as in last receipt. Or, when the thread lace has been tacked to the bottle, take some of the best sweet oil and saturate the lace thorough- ly. Have ready in a wash-kettle, a strong cold lather of clear water and white Castile soap. Pill the bottle with cold water, to pre- vent its bursting, cork it well and stand it up- right in the suds, with a string round the neck secured to the ears or handle of the ket- tle, to prevent its shifting about and breaking while over the fire. Let it boil in the suds for an hour or more, till the lace is clean and white all through. Drain off the suds and dry it on the bottle in the sun. When dry, remove the lace from the bottle and roll it round a white ribbon-block ; or lay it in long folds, place it within a sheet of smooth white paper, and press it in a large book for a few In washing laces, put 12 drops aqua ammo- nia in warm suds. 474. To Prepare Silks for Washing. Most colors are really improved, by the follow- ing method, especially red, purple, orange, blue, olive, puce, red into a pint of starch that has been made in the usual manner, will give a beautiful gloss to shirt-bosoms, and to lawns (either white or printed) a look of newness to which nothing else can restore them after washing. It is also good (much diluted) for thin white mus- lin and bobbinet. 499. To Make Starch for Colored Ar- ticles. For starching muslins, ginghams, and calicoes, dissolve and add to every pint of starch, a piece of alum the size of a shell- bark. By so doing, the colors will keep bright for a long time, which is very desirable when dresses must be often washed, and the cost is but a trifle. 500. To Starch Muslins and Piques. In getting up muslins and piques, the failure is not generally in the washing, but in the starching. A good-sized panful of starch should be used, in which 3 or 4 inches of spermaceti candle has been melted whilst hot. The articles should be thoroughly squeezed from the starch, and folded whilst wet, be- tween folds of old sheeting or table linen. They should then be passed through a wring- ing machine. All lumps of starch are thus removed. Piqu6s should be ironed as lightly as possi- ble, and the iron ought never to come into contact with the outside surface of the pique. An old cambric handkerchief is the best thing to use under the iron where absolutely necessary to iron on the right side. 501. To Clear-starch Lace, Cambric and Book Muslin. Starch for laces should be thicker and used hotter than for linens. After the laces have been well washed and dried, dip them into the thick hot starch in such a way as to have every part properly starched. Then wring all the starch out of them, spread them out smooth on a piece of linen, roll them up together, and let them re- main for about half an hour, when they will be dry enough to iron. Laces should never be clapped between the hands, as it injures them. Cambrics do not require so thick starch as net or lace. Some people prefer cold or raw starch for book-nraslin, as some of this kml of muslin has a thick, clammy appear- ance if starched in boiled starch. Fine laces are sometimes wound round a glass bottle to dry, which prevents them from shrinking. 502. To Fold Clothes after Drying on the Line. Fold the fine articles and roll theni in a towel, and then fold the rest, turning them all the right side outward. Lay the col- ored articles separate from the rest. They should not remain damp long, as the colors might be injured, and starched fabrics are apt to mildew. Sheets and table linen should be shaken and folded. TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS. 65 503. To Iron Clothes. In ironin shirt, first do the back, then the sleeves, then the collar and bosom, and then the front Iron calicoes generally on the right side, as they thus keep clean for a longer time. In ironing a frock, first do the waist, then the sleeves then the skirt. Keep the skirt rolled while ironing the other parts, and set a chair to hole the sleeves while ironing the skirt, unless a skirt-board be used. Silk should be ironed on the wrong side, when quite damp, with an iron which is not very hot, as light colors are apt to change and fade. In ironing velvet, turn up the face of the iron, and after dampening the wrong side of the velvet, draw it over the face 01 the iron, holding it straight ; always iron lace and needlework on the wrong side, and put them away as soon as they are dry. 504. To Restore Scorched Linen. It is almost needless to premise that if the tissue of linen is so much burnt that no strength is left, it is useless to apply the fol- lowing composition; for nothing could pre- vent a hole from being formed, although the composition by no means tends to injure the fabric. But if the scorching is not quite through, and the threads not actually con- sumed, then the application of this composi- tion, followed by two or three good washings, will restore the linen to its original color ; the marks of the scorching will be so totally ef- faced as to be imperceptible, and the place will seem as white and perfect as any other part of the linen. Mix well together 2 ounces fuller's earth reduced to a powder ; 1 ounce hen's dung ; ounce of cake soap, scraped ; and the juice of 2 large onions, obtained by the onions being cut up, beaten in a mortar, and pressed. Boil this mass in -J- pint strong vinegar, stirring it from time to time, until it forms a thick liquid compound. Spread this composition thickly over the entire surface of the scorched part, and let it remain on 24 hours. If the scorching was light, this will prove sufficient, with the assistance of two subse- quent washings, to take out the stain. If, however, the scorching was strong, a second coating of the composition should be put on after removing the first ; and this should also remain on for 24 hours. If, after the linen has been washed twice or thrice, the stain has not wholly dissappeared, the composition may be used again, in proportion to the intensity of the discoloration remaining, when a com- plete cure will seldom fail to be effected. It has scarcely ever happened that a third appli- cation was found necessary. The remainder of the composition should be kept for use in a gallipot tied over with bladder. 505. To Remove the Stain of Per- spiration. For removing the stain of per- spiration a strong solution of soda is first to be applied, with a subsequent rinsing with water. 506. To Bleach Yellow Linen. Linen that has acquired a yellow or bad color by careless washing, may be restored to its former whiteness by working it well in water containing a clear solution of chloride of lime, rinsing it well in clean water, both before and after using the bleaching liquor. Never at- tempt to bleach unwashed linen, and avoid using the liquor too strong, as in that case the linen will be rendered rotten. 507. To Bleach Yellow Flannel. Flannel which has become yellow with use may be whitened by putting it for some time in a solution of hard soap, to which strong ammonia has been added. The proportions are 1 pounds hard curd soap, 50 pounds of salt water and $- pound strong ammonia. The same object may be attained in a shorter time by placing the garments for a quarter of an hour in a weak solution of bisulphite of soda to which a little hydrochloric acid has been added. 508. How to Whiten Flannel and Woolen Hose. Wet the flannel yarn or hose (whatever you wish to whiten) in weak suds ; wring out. Then hang on sticks or cords across a barrel with 2 table-spoonfuls of pulverized brimstone or sulphur burning under it; cover the barrel tightly. If they are not white enough, repeat the process ; hang in the open air a day, then wash and rinse in bluing water. Be careful not to have the sulphur blaze and scorch the gar- ments. 509. To Bleach Brown Sheeting. Having soaked the cloth 12 hours in strong soap-suds, take i pound chloride of lime for every 12 yards of sheeting, and dissolve it in enough boiling water to cover the cloth when dipped into it. As soon as the lime is dis- solved, strain the solution through a flannel or other coarse cloth, then put the brown sheeting in the strained lime-water, stirring constantly, and after it has remained thus in this liquor for about half an hpur, take out the cloth and rinse it well in pure water, so as to be sure to remove all the lime-water ; and then boil it up in strong soap-suds, and hang out to dry, and the work of weeks will have been accomplished in a day or two. 510. Bleaching by Oil of Turpentine. German authority recommends the use of oil of turpentine in bleaching white goods. Dissolve 1 part oil of turpentine in 3 parts strong alcohol, place a table-spoonful of the mixture in the water used for the last rinsing. The clothes are to be immersed in this, well wrung out, and placed in the open air to dry. The bleaching action of the oil consists in its changing oxygen into ozone when exposed to the light, and in this process the turpentine disappears, leaving no trace behind. 511. To Clean Straw Bonnets. First brush them with soap and water ; then with a solution of oxalic acid. 512. To Clean Door-Plates. To clean silver door-plates, use a weak solution of am- monia in water, applied with a wet rag. This wash is equally useful for silver plate and "ewelry. 513. To Clean Plated- Ware. Make a mste with whiting and alcohol, apply it to ;he plated articles, and after it is dry, rub it off with a brush (if rough), or a soft rag, if smooth. 514. To Remove Bust Spots from Marble. Rust spots can be made to disap- >ear by treatment with a weak solution com- )osed of 1 part nitric acid and 25 of water, ind afterward rinsing with waterand ammonia. 515. To Remove Ink Spots from YEarble. Ink spots may be removed by first washing with pure water, and then with a weak solution of oxalic acid. Subsequent 66 THE ART OF SOAP-MAKING. polishing, however, will be necessary, as the lustre of the stone may become dimmed. This can be best secured by very finely powdered soft white marble, applied with a linen cloth first dipped in water and then into the powder. If the place be subsequent- ly rubbed with a dry cloth the lustre will be restored. 516. To Remove Copper Spots from Marble. Copper spots may be removed by diluted sulphuric acid and ammonia, and sub- sequently with water and ammonia. 517. To Remove Match Stains from Marble. Spots from sulphur and phosphorus, caused by lucifer-matches, can be extracted from marble by sulphide of carbon. The Art of Soap-Making. Soap is a chemical combination of a fatty substance with caustic lye, the base of which is either potash or soda; the former producing soft, and the latter, hard soaps. 519. To Make Soap-makers' Lye. To 1 part of quicklime, slacked by sprinkling on it sufficient water to crumble it, add a solution of 3 parts soda in 5 parts water. For soft-soap lye, an equal quantity of potash is substituted for the soda. Stir the mixture and allow it to settle ; the clear liquid is then poured off, and constitutes the first lye, and is of a strength of 25 to 30 Baume" ; the second, third and fourth lye is each obtained by add- ing successively 5 parts water, stirring tho- roughly, allowing it to settle, and pouring off the clear liquid ; producing respectively a lye of from 12 to 18, 8 to 10, and 2 to 5 Baume". 520. To Make Soap. Having thus prepared the lye, the first, second and third lyes being sufficient for general purposes, take 20 pounds of pure grease, and melt it slowly in an iron vessel ; keep it at a moderate heat, and stir in, a little at a time, 10 pounds third, lye ; after stirring for about an hour, let the mixture get up to a boiling heat, and then stir in, by degrees, 10 pounds second lye ; this will complete the first stage of the process, which is termed saponification. The next step, called cutting up the pan, is to add, by degrees, a mixture of soda and lye with from 2 to 3 pounds common salt; this separates the excess of water from the curd, leaving a soapy paste; boil and stir for some time, then let it settle, and draw off the water. The third operation, clear boiling, has now to be performed ; stir into the paste, by degrees, 5 pounds first lye ; and, when perfectly mixed and smooth, boil the whole for two hours; should the soap, during the intervals, become too liquid, which may happen when too weak a lye has been used, some salt, or a weak lye containing salt, must be added. The boiling is terminated when large, regular, dry scales appear on the surface ; when this is the case let it settle, and draw off the fluid which re- mains. Put the soap into frames lined with cotton cloth which has been well powdered with a mixture of lime and starch, and as soon as the soap has become firm, lay it out to dry. 521. Hard and Soft Soap. Soaps are thus of two kinds, hard and soft, this condi- tion being influenced both by the fat and alkali employed. The firmer and harder the fat, the solider will be the resulting soap. With the same alkali, therefore, tallow will make a harder soap than palm or olive oil, and stearic acid than oleic acid. But the consistence of soaps depends far more upon the alkali employed. Potash is very deliques- cent, that is, has a strong attraction for water, so that when exposed it will absorb it from the air and run down into a fluid or semi-fluid state. The potash retains this water in the condition of soap, so that potash soaps are always liquid and soft. The hard soaps, therefore, all contain soda, those with tallow or stearic acid being the hardest. Potash soaps will not dry, but retain their soft, jelly- like condition, while some kinds of soda soap become so hard by drying that at last they can be pulverized. The admixture of a very small quantity of sulphate of soda hardens soap and also checks waste from too rapid solubility in hot water. "When soda and potash alkalies are used in combination, a pro- portion of from 10 to 20 per cent, of the latter is employed, according to the degree of hard- ness the soap is desired to possess. 522. Common Yellow Soap. Com- mon yellow hard soap consists of soda, with oil or fat and resin. Eesin is a feeble acid, capable of combining with alkali, but neu- tralizing it less completely than oil, so that the compound or soap formed is too power- fully alkaline. But when resin is worked with an equal or larger proportion of oil, it makes an excellent soap for many purposes. 523. Beef Tallow. This fat, on account of its abundant supply, is the most used by soap and candle makers. It is not as white as many other animal fats, and the best quali- ty, the North American, contains about 70 per cent, of stearine. It does not melt below 111 Fahr., but may afterwards be cooled down to 102 without solidifying, and when cold, is firm, and even brittle. 524. Mutton Suet. This is generally firm, white, and very rich in steainne ; this latter quality gives it a tendency to produce a soap of too hard and brittle a nature for general use, which is obviated by mixing about one-fifth or one-sixth part of lard, or some other more oleaginous fat ; thus modified it is specially adapted for stock for toilet soaps. 525. Lard. The best quality of lard melts at 81 Fahr., and contains about 60 per cent, of oily fat, known as lard oil, and about 30 per cent, solid stearine. It makes a pure, white soap, and is frequently combined with tallow or other saponaceous fat. 526. Bone Fat, obtained by boiling fresh bones, split open lengthways, is very well adapted for making soaps, but generally undergoes a process of purification before be- ing thus employed. (See No. 534.) 527. Cocoanut Oil possesses two promi- nent qualities which specially recommend it as an ingredient in soap-making. It imparts a great degree of firmness to the soap, prob- ably owing to the solid form of the fatty acids found in it. It will also unite permanently with soda lyes in any proportion ; and, in combination with other fat substances, im- parts whiteness and emollient properties to THE ART OF SOAP-MAKING. 67 them ; it also froths as well in cold as in hot water, which is not the case with tallow soaps worked with soda. 528. Palm Oil. This substance is used in the manufacture of soap. Its genuine quality is easily tested by its solubility in acetic ether, the imitations sometimes sold under the same name being insoluble in it. It is used in its natural state, but its dis- tinctive qualities and white color are greatly increased by bleaching. (See No. 537.) 529. To Clarify^Fat Used in Making Fine or Toilet Soaps. Heat the fat in a clean iron or copper kettle, applying just heat enough to melt it thoroughly ; then filter it through fine linen or muslin. 530. To Deodorize Fat for Making Perfumed Soap. Boil for 10 minutes 100 pounds of the fat with about 35 pounds water containing G ounces common salt and 3 ounces powdered alum ; strain the water off, and let the fat rest for some hours before using. 531. To Prevent Fatty Substances from Turning Rancid. Boil for about 10 minutes with the salt and alum solution, as in last receipt ; strain the water off, and then gently simmer the clarified fat with 4 ounces benzoin and 1 gallon rose water; skim off and let it cool. Fat thus treated will keep for years. 532. To Grain or Granulate Tallow. Melt the tallow and stir it with twice its quantity of water at a blood heat until it is cold ; strain the fat from the Avater, and dry by exposing it to a current of dry air. Tallow in this granulated form combines more readily with lye for soap-making purposes. (See No. 535.) 533. To Purify Tallow and Other Fats. Tallow and other fats are commonly purified by molting them along with water, passing the mixed fluids through a sieve, and letting the whole col slowly, when a cake of cleansed fat is obtained. Another plan is to keep the tallow melted for some time, along with about 2 per cent, of oil of vitriol largely diluted with water, employing constant agita- tion, and allowing the whole to cool slowly ; then to re-melt the cake with a large quantity of hot water, and to wash it well. Another method is to blow steam for some time through the melted fat. By either this or the prece- ding process a white hard tallow may be ob- tained. Some persons add a little nitre to the melted fat, and afterwards a little dilute- nitric or sulphuric acid, or a solution of bisul- phate of potash. Others boil the fat along with water and a little dilute nitric or chro- mic acid, and afterwards wash it well with water. 534. To Purify Bone Fat. Melt the fat with a small quantity of saltpetre (nitrate of potassa); then add sufficient sulphuric acid to decompose the saltpetre. The mass, after the scum is removed, becomes a light yel- low color, and is completely deprived of all offensive smell and animal impurities. 535. To Keep Tallow from Turning Rancid. Cut 50 pounds tallow into slices, and boil it in about 2$ gallons water containing 2 ounces alum and 4 ounces salt ; strain the fat from the liquid, and wash it in clean wa- ter; put into a clean barrel twice as much water at a blood heat as there is grease, and dissolve in the water about 1 part of clean soap to 10 parts of the grease; next warm the grease to a blood heat and pour it into the bar- rel of water, stirring it together until cold ; let it rest until the fat has risen to the sur- face, when the water must be drawn away through a hole in the bottom of the barrel, hitherto tightly corked. The fat in a granu- lated state must be thoroughly dried by ex- posure to a current of dry air; and, when per- fectly dry, packed in barrels or other vessels. The graining of the fat at the same time greatly facilitates its combination with lye for the purposes of soap-making. 536. To Preserve Grease. Boil all the scraps, rinds, and bones, in a weak lye, and the purer grease in clear water. Let the mix- ture cool, take off the cake of grease, and strain it. It is well to do this occasionally, as you save it ; for when kept a long time im- pure grease becomes offensive. You must be careful to dry off all the water before laying it away in the grease tub, if you wish it to keep sweet. The best plan to collect dripping is to put it while warm into water nearly cold. Any impurities it may contain will sink to the bottom. 537. To Bleach Palm Oil. Dissolve i pound powdered red chromate of potassa in about a quart hot water. 100 pounds palm oil are heated in a wooden tank, by steam, to a temperature of 120 Fahr. The steam is then turned off and a portion of the chrome solution is stirred in, followed by a propor- tional quantity of 1 pound strong muriatic acid. After the whole of the solution and of the acid has been thoroughly mixed with the palm oil, stir in J pound sulphuric acid. The oil becomes black, then dark green, and finally light green, with a thick froth on the surface. If; when the mixture has settled, the oil is not sufficiently bleached, the operation has to be repeated, using less proportion of chrome and acids. "When the bleaching is complete, the oil is allowed to stand for an hour to clear; it is then run into a wooden tank with some water, and heated again, to wash out any salts that may remain in it, and after a time drawn off ready for use. Palm oil is usually com- bined with from 3 to 5 times its weight of tal- low to make soap, and is serviceable in resin soap to brighten its color and disguise the resin. 538. Filled Soap. Hard soaps are usu- ally made according to the process before de- scribed (see No. 520), the excess of water being separated from the paste by the use of salt: this class of soap is termed grained soap. But there are some kinds cocoanut oil and soda soap, for instance that are so hard in their nature that the operation of salting, or graining, is needless, the water remaining incorporated in the paste; soaps of this class are called filled soaps. 539. To Make Talk>w Soap. The French Method. Melt in a boner, by a moderate heat, 500 pounds tallow ; stir in, by degrees, 35 to 40 gallons caustic soda lye of 10 to 12 Baume, and let it boil gently for several hours ; then add, gradually, IB to 20 gallons caustic soda lye of 15 to 18 Baume, and mix until the whole becomes a homogene- ous mass of a grayish color ; keep the mix- ture boiling gently for some hours, adding to 68 THE ART OF SOAP-MAKING. it every hour 3 to 4 gallons caustic soda lye of 20 Baume. This will occupy 10 or 12 hours. The salting process then follows, and is con- ducted as described in No. 520. After the separation oj graining is finished the paste is allowed to stand for a few hours, and the lye is drawn off through a faucet inserted for the purpose in the side of the boiler, near the bot- tom. The mass is again boiled for some hours, adding every hour 2| gallons soda lye of 25 Baum6, until the hard scales rise to the surface. (See No. 520.) The fire should then be extinguished, and after an hour the under-lye is to be drawn off. Then boil again for H to 2 hours with about 25 gallons soda lye of 4 Baume, stirring from tune to time. The fire should then be removed, and the pan covered up ; the soap will rise to the top of the lye, and may be poured into the frames, care being taken that no lye gets mixed with the soap. This should yield about 850 pounds of soap. 540. Tallow Resin Soap. About 15 per cent, of resin can be mixed with tallow without injuring the color and firmness of the Boap. A larger proportion deteriorates the quality and produces an inferior soap. Some soap-makers melt the resin and tallow togeth- er before saponifying; but it is better to make a soap of each in separate boilers, and then mix and boil them together thoroughly for half an hour, and strain through a sieve before filling the frames. 541. To Make Resin Soap. Boil 12 gallons caustic soda lye of 30 Baum6 in a kettle, and add 100 pounds well pulverized resin, 10 or 15 pounds at a time, stirring con- stantly and thoroughly, the heat being kept up to or nearly at boiling point. Saponifica- tion will be effected in about 2 hours. The lightest resin is the best for soap. 542. Cocoanut Oil Soap. Put 100 pounds cocoanut oil and 100 pounds caustic eoda lye of 27 Baum6 into a soap kettle ; boil and mix thoroughly for 1 or 2 hours, until the paste gradually thickens ; then diminish the heat, but continue stirring till the cooling paste assumes a white, half-solid mass ; then transfer quickly to the frames. A mixture of equal parts of cocoanut oil and tallow will make a very fine filled soap. (See No. 538.) Cocoanut oil mixed with almost any fats, if they are not in too large proportions, will produce filled soaps. 543. Palm Oil Soap. Palm oil is sel- dom used alone as a saponaceous fat, but is employed in conjunction with other fats, and with resin ; this latter being usually saponi- fied separately and mixed afterwards. (See No. 540.) The directions for making tallow soap apply equally well to palm oil. The fol- lowing are among the best mixtures and pro- portions of palm oil for soaps : 30 pounds palm oil, 20 pounds tallow, and 2 pounds resin. 30 pounds palm oil, 50 pounds tallow, and 20 pounds resin. 90 pounds palm oil and 10 pounds cocoanut oil. 15 pounds palm oil, 55 pounds lard, pounds cocoanut oil, and 5 pounds clarified resin. 544. To Make Soap from. Grained Tallow. Mix 6 pounds caustic soda and 2 pounds caustic potash with 17 to 20 gallons hot water ; put a portion of this lye into a clean barrel; stir in by degrees 25 pounds grained tallow ; add the rest of the lye and stir it briskly for at least an hour ; then let it rest, and before it is cold pour it into a frame or box, and finish according to No. 520. 545. Dawson's Patent Composite Soap. Strong potash lye, 75 pounds; tal- tow, 75 pounds; cocoanut oil, 25 pounds. Boil until the compound is saponified in the usual manner. To make 30 pounds of the new composi- tion, take 2 gallons boiling soft water in a ket- tle, add -J pound sal soda, 2 ounces borax, 2 table-spoonfuls spirits of turpentine, and 1 tea-spoonful linseed oil. Stir this mixture un- til the borax and soda are dissolved ; then add 15 pounds of the above soap made from lye, tallow, and cocoanut oil; and continue the boiling with stirring for 15 minutes, until the whole is incorporated and dissolved. Now add 2 ounces spirits of hartshorn, and stir. It may be scented with any essential oil, or odor, and colored, if desired ; then run off and molded into cakes fit for toilet use. It is a good soap for chapped hands, and is free from any disagreeable odor. 546. Chemical Soap. Powdered ful- ler's earth, 1 ounce ; just moisten with spirits of turpentine ; add salt of tartar, 1 ounce ; best potash, 1 ounce ; work the whole into a paste with a little scap. It is excellent for removing grease spots. 547. To Make Hard White Tallow Soap. Dissolve 2 pounds sal soda in 1 gal- lon boiling soft water ; mix into it 2 pounds fresh slacked lime, stirring occasionally for a few hours ; then let it settle, pour off' the clear liquid, and boil 2 pounds tallow in it un- til all the tallow is dissolved. Cool it in aflat box, and cut it into bars or cakes. It can be scented by stirring in the desired perfume when cool. 548. To Make Home-made Caustic Soda. Dissolve 6 pounds common washing soda in 4 gallons warm water ; slack 6 pounds clean fresh quicklime in a tub, using only as much water as is needed to crumble it perfect- ly ; add the slacked lime to the solution of soda ; stir the two together, adding 4 gallons boiling water; stir thoroughly and let it settle; then pour off the clear lye for use. 549. To Make Domestic Soap. Put the caustic soda lye, prepared in the manner and quantity given in the last receipt, into a clean iron kettle, and add, during continual stirring, 12 pounds clarified grease, dusting in, a little at a time, 4 ounces finely powdered borax; let it boil gently for 10 or 15 minutes, until it thickens and becomes ropy ; then have in readiness a tight box, lined with a piece of muslin large enough to hang well over the sides, to allow of the contents being after- ward conveniently lifted out ; pour the mix- ture from the kettle into the box, and let it stand for a few days to harden ; when suffi- ciently linn, turn it out onto a table, 'and cut it into bars with a thin wire. Soap thus made, and left to harden in a dry room, will bo fit for use in a month. 550. To Make Home-made Caustic Lye from Ashes. Provide a box whose sides terminate in a point, and having an ori- TOILS? SOAPS. 69 fice at the lower end (see illustration); thii should be mounted high enough to allow of a vessel being placed underneath itj to re- ceive the liquid that runs out of the bottom. The box is then well lined with straw (see No. 607), upon which fresh wood ashes are placed, adding to the ashes about one twen- tieth the quantity of fresh slacked lime (see No. 519); then pour hot water upon it, and the lye will filter through into the vessel be- low. For the purposes of soap-making, this lye must be concentrated by boiling until a sound potato will not sink below the surface. 551. To Make Home-made Soap. Fill an iron kettle two-thirds full of the con- centrated lye prepared according to the last receipt ; add to it melted fat, a ladleful at a time, stirring constantly until the mass be- comes creamy ; next add small quantities of salt at a time, stirring without intermission until a perfect ring can be made on the surface with a stick ; then let the fire go out and the soap will rise to the surface and harden as it cools ; the lye can be drawn from under it by tilting the kettle, or the soap may be lifted off and laid out to dry until hard enough to cut it into bars. (See No. 549.) 552. Ox-gall Soap. Gall soap, for the washing of fine silken cloths and ribbons, is prepared in the following manner: In a vessel of copper 1 pound cocoanut oil is heated to 60 Fahr., and $ pound caustic soda is added, with constant stirring. In another vessel \ pound white Venetian turpentine is heated, and when quite hot, stirred into the copper kettle. This kettle is then covered and left for 4 hours, being gently heated, after which the fire is increased until the contents are perfectly clear ; then 1 pound ox-gall is added. After this, sufficient perfectly dry Castile soap is stirred into 1^he mixture to cause the whole to yield but little under the pressure of the finger ; for which purpose, from 1 to 2 pounds of soap are required for the above quantity. After cooling, the soap is cut into pieces. It is excellent, and will not injure the finest colors. Toilet SpapS. To this class be- long the finer kinds of scented soaps, which have emollient properties. They are rarely made direct by the perfumer, the body or basis being a well-selected white soap, subse- quently cleaned and purified. For the choic- est grades, the body should be made of a mix- ture of olive and sweet-almond oil, as the fat stock. Lard and beef tallow make the next best stock ; and for palm soap a small quanti- ty of bleached palm oil is to be added to them. Cocoa oil and pale yellow resin saponaceous matters also enter into the composition of cer- tain toilet soaps. These body soaps may be obtained as wanted from any well-conducted soap factory. To be adapted to the purposes of perfumery they must be perfectly neutral, firm, free from unpleasant odor and all tenden- cy to crust in cold, or sweat in damp weather. They should, moreover, give a rich lather without wasting too rapidly in the water. Soaps, generally, in their original condition, are usually deficient in many of those points ; and must, for the purposes of perfumery, un- dergo a refining process, which is as follows : 554. To Refine Soap for Making Toilet Soap. The soap, as purchased in bars or blocks, being piled upon the shelf of the rasping machine, is next placed in the hopper, and as the wheel revolves, knives come against the soap and cut it into meal, which falls into the reception box beneath. It is now in a state fit to be melted readily, for which purpose it is transferred to a steam bath, and mixed with rose and orange-flower waters, each half a gallon, to every hundred pounds of soap. The steam being let on, and the containing kettle covered, its contents be- come gradually fluid, and in this state must be stirred with a crutch which is a long stick having the form of an inverted T until the paste becomes uniformly consistent and smooth throughout. It is then allowed to cool, again melted, but without fragrant wa- ter, and crutched as before. When the con- tents of the vessel comprise several kinds of soap, great care must be observed not to put in all at once, but to add and melt each suc- cessively, and to crutch constantly, so as to effect an intimate mixture. When the paste begins to cool, coloring matter as may be de- sired is then added, and subsequently the per- fume, which is reserved to the last, to avoid any unnecessary loss by evaporation from the hot paste. 55'5. To Perfume, Cut and Stamp Toilet Soap. When extracts or bouquets are used, they must be added to the com- pound in meal, and incorporated with the mass by kneading it with the hands; for the ap- plication of heat would impair the delicacy of the odor, as well as occasion loss by its evap- oration. In large establishments this is done by passing the meal repeatedly between mar- ble rollers. The soap is now ready to be put into the ;ooling frames, which is a rectangular well, made of a series of wooden frames, resting successively one upon the other. In a day or two it is sufficiently hard to be cut into tab- lets of the size of the sections of each frame ; they are set up edgewise, and left for several days to dry, and are then barred by means of a wire. The sections or lifts of the frames regulate the width of the bars, and the gauges adjust their breadth these latter being made so as to cut bars or squares of four, six, eight or any required number to the pound of soap. The bars are further subdivided into tablets, and subjected to pressure for the purpose of imparting solidity, and ornamenting the exte- rior with some appropriate device, or impress- ing upon it the maker's name ; the shape of the tablet being determined by the form of the 70 TOILET SOAPS. mould or die-box in which it is pressed. The press is of ordinary construction, with spiral springs to throw out the soap tablet from the die-box as soon as it is pressed. In some fac- tories the pressure is more effectually accom- plished by means of a steam hammer, which is made to give three blows, directly vertical, to each tablet of soap. Savonettes or soap-balls are shaped by rotating blocks of soap upon a soap scoop made of brass, with sharp edges. 556. To Marble Soap. The mottled or marble appearance is usually given to soap, on the large scale, by watering the nearly fin- ished soap with a strong lye of crude soda (preferably one rich in sulphurets), by means of a watering-pot furnished with a rose-spout. In Castile soap it is given with a solution of sul- phate of iron, used in the same way. On the small scale, with toilet soaps, the mottle is either given in the way noticed under "Mottled Soap Balls " (see No. 576),or, in alike manner, by combining some of the soap, colored at the time of scenting it, with the remaining uncolored portion. 557. Almond Soap. This is a very white soap, which, when genuine, is made by the cold process (see Nos. 582 and 583), and from pure oil of sweet almonds. The kind, however, generally met with, is made as fol- lows : White curd soap, 100 pounds ; cocoa- nut oil, 15 pounds ; purified as before directed (see No. 554), and perfumed with a mixture of attar of bitter almonds, 1 pounds ; and attars of cloves and caraway, each 8 ounces. 558. White Windsor Soap. The gen- uine old white "Windsor is made from a body of which a mixture of lard and olive oil is the fat stock ; and attars of caraway, lavender, and rosemary, constitute the perfume. The modern "Windsor soap is made from fine white curd soap, 115 pounds ; cocoanut- oil soap, 20 pounds ; perfumed with a mixture of attar of caraway, 1 pounds; attars of thyme and rosemary, each 8 ounces ; and at- tars of cassia and cloves, each 4 ounces. 559. Brown Windsor Soap. Curd soap, 100 pounds ; cocoanut oil soap, and pale yellow resin soap, each 25 pounds ; color with caramel (see No. 694), 8 ounces; and perfume with a mixture of attars of caraway, cloves, thyme, cassia, petit-grain, and lavender, each 8 ounces. Morfit's oleic soap, of first grade, is peculiarly adapted as a body for brown "Windsor soap, as it gives a rich lather, and is very smooth and highly emollient. More- over, it contains its normal moisture for a great length of time. 560. Honey Soap. "White curd soap, 40 pounds; melted and crutched with white honey, 10 pounds; storax, 2 pounds; and powdered benzoin, 1 pound. 561. Imitation Honey Soap. An im- itation honey soap is made by melting togeth- er pale j^ellow soap, 100 pounds ; soft soap, 14 pounds ; and perfuming with attar of citron- ella, 1 pounds. 562. Frangipani Soap. Curd soap, colored brown with caramel, 7 pounds ; per- fumed with a mixture of attars of neroli and vitivert, each 4 ounces ; attar of rose, 2 drachms; attar of santal, 1 ounces; and civet, 2 drachms. The latter is to be pre- viously triturated with the attars. 563. Rose Soap. This is made from a mixture of olive oil soap, 60 pounds; and curd soap, 40 pounds ; colored with 1 pound of finely bolted vermilion. The perfume con- sisting of attar of rose, 6 ounces ; attars of santal and geranium, each 1 ounce ; and tinc- ture of musk, 8 ounces ; must be added to the cold soap in meal, and incorporated by knead- ing. The oil soap may be replaced by curd soap, but the quality of the rose soap will not then be so fine. 564. Savon au Bouquet. "White soap, 60 pounds ; perfumed in the cold with 8 ounces of extract bouquet; or in warm paste with a mixture of attar of bergamot, 8 ounces ; attars of cloves and sassafras, each ounce ; attar of thyme, 1 ounce; attar of neroli, 1 ounce. The soap body must be previously colored brown with 1 pound of caramel. The soap scented with the attars is inferior to that perfumed with extract bouquet. The per- fume, and with it the title of the soap, can be varied according to the caprice of- fashion. 565. Poncine Soap. Curd soap, 50 pounds ; cocoanut oil soap, the same quanti- ty, melted to paste and crutched with 10 or 20 pounds of finely bolted pumice-stone pow- der. The perfume is a mixture of attars of thyme, cassia, caraway, and lavender, each 1 pound. 566. Spermaceti Soap. The genuine spermaceti soap is superior to all others in emollient properties ; but it is rarely made from pure stock, owing to the difficulty in saponifying it. As generally vended it con- sists of white curd soap, 14 pounds ; perfumed with a mixture of attar of bergamot, 2 ounces, and attar of lemon, 8 ounces. 567. Palm Soap. Curd soap, made of a mixture of $ lard, -J- bleached palm oil, and the remainder olive oil or spermaceti, consti- tutes the body of palm soap. Its natural odor is that of the violet, which is some- times stimulated by the addition of a little attar of portugal, with a less portion of attar of cloves. 568. Floating Soap. All the hard soaps increase bulk by mechanical batting of the paste ; the loss of density thus produced gives them the property of floating in water. The batting is best accomplished by means of a churn-twirl, rotating on a pivot in the bot- tom of the melting pan, and put in motion by a handle. Expose 5 pounds olive-oil or almond soap, and 1 J pints soft water in a bright copper pan, to a steam or water heat, and assiduously beat and agitate the mixture until it has more than double its volume ; then pour it into a cold frame, cool it quickly, and, when hard, cut it into bars or cakes. It may be colored and scented at will. Floats on water, and lathers freely, but will not bear soaking or much wet, as it rapidly softens. 569. Transparent Soap. This amber- looking soap is made by dissolving hard white soap, previously reduced to meal and thoroughly dried, in alcohol. A steam-bath, fitted with a still-head, makes a good con- taining vessel. The alcohol and soap are taken in about equal proportions ; and, as the solution proceeds, any spirit which may distill over must be allowed to condense in a worm, and collected in a receiver. The heat should not exceed 212. After solution, the whole TOILET SOAPS. 71 must be allowed time for settling; after which, the clear fluid is t6 be drawn off from the sediment into wooden frames ; or globular moulds of britannia metal, if it is desired to cast it in ball form. Previous to settling it may be colored as desired red, with tincture of alkanet ; yellow, with tincture of turmeric ; orange, with a mixture of the two tinctures ; green, with tincture of chlorophyle; blue, with tincture of indigo carmine. Transparent soap is rather translucent when first made, and does not clear until perfectly dry. The perfumes are the same as for the other soaps. 570. Glycerine Soap. Any mild toilet soap (as the basis of bouquet, rose, or "Wind- sor soap) with which about ^5- to -fa of its weight of Price's glycerine has been intimate- ly incorporated whilst in the melted state. It is generally tinged of a red or rose color, with a little tincture of archil or of dragon's blood ; or orange yellow, with a little an- natta. It is variously scented; but oil of bergamot, or rose-geranium (ginger-grass), supported with a little oil of cassia, or cassia supported with essential oil of almonds, ap- pear to be its favorite perfumes. 571. Musk Soap. Best tallow soap, 30 pounds ; palm oil soap, 20 pounds ; powdered cloves, pale roses and gilliflowers, of each 4 ounces ; essence of bergamot and essence of musk, of each 3 ounces ; Spanish brown, 4 ounces. 572. Orange Flower Soap. Best tal- low soap, 30 pounds ; palm oil soap, 20 pounds ; essence of portugal and essence of ambergris, each 7-J ounces; yellowish green coloring, made of ochre and indigo, 8J ounces ; vermilion, 1J ounces. 573. .Cinnamon Soap. This is usually a mixture of tallow and oil soaps, like that of " savon au bouquet," colored with about pound yellow ochre, and scented with 1 ounce oil of cinnamon (supported with a little oil of bergamot and sassafras), to each 7 pounds. The following is the form of a celebrated maker of this soap, and is very fine : 6 pounds finest white curd soap ; "3^ pounds finest palm oil soap ; 1 pound oh' ve oil soap ; H ounce oil of cinnamon ; ounce oil of bergamot ; J- ounce oil of sassafras ; 1 drachm English oil of lavender; and about pound levigated yellow ochre. Oil of cassia is commonly substituted for the oil of cinnamon; and always so in second and inferior qualities. 574. Glycerine Soap Balls. To any recently made toilet soap, sliced, and melted by a gentle heat, without water (if possible), add Price's glycerine, in the proportion of 1 ounce to the pound ; thoroughly incorporate them by vigorous stirring, which should be continued until the mass has cooled consider- ably, when it should be at once made into balls. 575. Sand Soap Balls. These are pre- pared by adding to the melted soap about half its weight of fine siliceous sand. Sifted sand is usually employed. Some persons prefer the shelly sea- sand (sifted from the shells and well washed) for the purpose. For the finer qualities, finely-powdered pumice-stone is now usually employed. Used to prevent rough- ness and thickening of the skin in cold weath- er ; also to clean the hands when dirty. The best yellow soap, with or without the addition of its weight of white soft soap and a little sweet oil, is the best for these balls. 576. Mottled Soap Balls. Cut the soap (recently prepared, and not too dry) into dice, or small square pieces, roll them in colored pow- der (see below), and then mould them into balls by powerful pressure, observing to mix the colors as little as possible. The colors usually employed, and which should be in very fine powder, are : Slue indigo, powder-blue, or smalts. Green pow- der-blue and bright yellow-ochre. Orange yellow deepened with a little red. Bed red bole, sesquioxide of iron, or jeweler's rouge. Yellow bright yellow-ochre, or Dutch pink. By varying the shade of color, which is done by diluting it with a little farina or chalk, and by using soap-dice separately coated with two or more colors, " mottled savonettes " of any color, or mixture of colors, may be pro- duced at will. 577. Mercurial Soap. Take of corro- sive sublimate (crushed small), 1 drachm ; rectified spirit (to dissolve, say) 1 fluid ounce; white Castile soap (in powder), 4 ounces; beat them to a uniform mass in a wedgwood-ware mortar, adding a few drops of attar of roses, or of a mixture of the oils of cassia and bitter almonds. Nothing me- tallic must touch it. This is the " sapo hy- drargyri bichloridi " of medical writers. The above has .been recommended in various skin diseases, including itch ; also as " Savon An- tisyphilitique," under which name it is often sold. 578. Sulphur Soap; Sulphuretted Soap. Take pound white curd or Castile soap (recent); 1 ounce best flowers of sulphur (levigated); 1 fluid ounce rectified spirit (strongly colored with alkanet) ; and sufficient attar of roses to strongly scent the mass. Beat the whole together, to a smooth paste, in a marble or wedgwood ware mortar. This is Sir H. Marsh's formula. Recom- mended in itch, and various other skin dis- eases. It is particularly serviceable as a com- mon toilet soap, to persons troubled with slight cutaneous eruptions. Its daily use tends to render the skin fair and smooth. The spirit and coloring may be omitted at will ; and, as a toilet soap, only half the above quantity of sulphur is amply sufficient. 579. Caution in using Medicated Soaps. Before using mercurial or sulphur soap, finger-rings, ear-rings, and bracelets of gold, &c., should be removed, and not re- placed until some short time after the hands have become quite dry ; as otherwise they will be tarnished, and even blackened and corroded. The same applies to all other cos- metics containing the same mineral ingre- dients. 580. Whale-oil Soap to Destroy In- sects. Render common lye caustic, by boil- ing it at full strength on quicklime; then take the lye and boil it with as much whale- oil foot as it will saponify (change to soap), pour off into moulds, and, when cold, it is tolerably hard. "Whale-oil foot is the sedi- ment produced in refining whale oil. 581. Carbolic Acid Soap. Take freshly prepared cocoanut-oil soap, 150 parts, and fuse; SOAP BY THE COLD PROCESS. then add a solution of alcohol, 10 parts ; car- bolic acid, 6 parts ; caustic potassa, 2 parts ; oil of lemon, 1 part ; and mix with stirring. To be poured into moulds. Soap by the Cold Process. Although the commoner kinds of soap are usually made by boiling, they can be made by the cold process if desired ; and the fatty substances employed are substantially the same in both methods. The cold or little- pan process is, however, almost exclusively adopted in the manufacture of fancy or toilet soaps, and for these purposes the fat requires to be purified and deodorized, especially where any delicate scent is to be used in perfuming it. (See Nos. 533 and 530.) The lye em- ployed for saponification without boiling must be much stronger than that used in the boil- ing process, and should be entirely clear and colorless; a strength of about 36 Baum6 is nsually necessary. 583. To Make Soap by the Cold Pro- cess. Incorporate by degrees 50 pounds concentrated caustic lye of 36 Baum6, into 100 pounds fat at a temperature not higher than 104 Fahr. (sec No. 523); continue to stir thoroughly with a broad wooden paddle, until a complete ring can be drawn on its surface with the paddle. In making scented soap, the perfuming ingredients must now be stirred in. The paste is then run into frames lined with linen, flaps of which should be left above the edges of each frame, wide enough to ad- mit of their being laid over the surface of the paste, with which the frame must be entirely filled. The paste being thus completely con- fined by the linen, the frames are closed with a wooden cover and left for 12 hours. Dur- ing this interval the temperature of the paste in the frames rises spontaneously to a much higher degree, producing complete saponifica- tion. The soap is afterwards taken out of the frames, cut, and dried. The hardness of the soap will depend on the description of fats and lyes used. (See No. 521.) 584. Method of Testing Caustic Alkali. The strength and practical value of commercial caustic soda or potash can only be ascertained by analysis. The methods given below are simple, and will determine, with sufficient accuracy, the percentage of water, caustic alkali, and carbonated alkali contained in a given sample ; and hence the quantity of impurity, if any. 585. To Find the Percentage of Wa- ter in a Caustic Soda or Potash. Weigh carefully 100 grains of the alkali into a cap- sule (a flat evaporating dish of suitable size, a watch glass is a small capsule), and dry them by heating over a flame ; a cold glass held over the contents of the capsule will show the slightest evaporation of water. When no more moisture can be detected, al- low them to cool ; then weigh the residue in the capsule, and the difference of the weights before and after drying will be the number of grains of water contained in 100 grains of the alkali ; that is, the percentage of water. 586. To Estimate the Percentage of Caustic Alkali in a Caustic Soda or Potash. Powder 100 grains of the alkali to be tested ; put it into a flask containing an ounce of 95 alcohol, and shake thoroughly ; the alcohol dissolves the caustic alkali per- fectly, but will not take up any other in- gredients. After standing for a few hours to settle, decant the clear liquid, and evaporate on a porcelain capsule until thoroughly dry ; the weight of the dry residue will be the num- ber of grains, i. c., the percentage, of caustio alkali in 100 grains of the soda or potash. 587. To Find the Percentage of Car- bonated Alkali in a Caustic Soda or Pot" ash. Dissolve 100 grains of the sample in 4 ounces water in a flask ; next weigh out 100 grains finely powdered crystals of oxalic acid ; add small portions of this acid at a time to the alkali in the flask, stirring thoroughly with a glass rod, and apply heat ; continue ttf> add the acid until the hot mixture tinges lit- mus paper slightly red ; the saturation is then complete, and the acid has neutralized or com- bined with all the alkali, both carbonate and caustic. Weigh the oxalic acid which re- mains ; and, by deducting from 100, we know how much we have used. Now every 7.87 grains oxalic acid that have been used, have neutralized 5 grains soda or 7 grains potash, according as the sample consists of caustic soda or caustic potash ; hence we find the total number of grains of alkali in the 100 grains under test. By the previous method we can find the percentage of caustic alkali in 100 grains of the sample ; deducting the grains of this latter from the weight of the whole alkali eliminated by the oxalic acid, the balance or remainder will be the percentage of carbonated alkali. By these three steps we get the percentage of water, the percentage of caustic alkali, and the percentage of carbonated alkali ; these added together and deducted from 100 give the percentage of foreign matter or impurity in the matter tested. (See Alkalimetry.) 588. To Make Soap-makers' Concen- trated Caustic Lye. Boil 85 gallons water in a kettle capable of holding 150 gallons; stir in, a little at a time, 100 pounds powdered soda (or potash, if for potash lye), until it is all dissolved; then mix in gradually, by stirring, 48 pounds freshly slacked lime of a creamy consistency ; the boiling must not be allowed to slacken during the whole process, until complete causticity is obtained, which may be ascertained by taking a little in a test glass, and, lohen cool, adding to it a few drops of nitric acid ; if this causes effervescence, the causticity is imperfect and the boiling must be continued until a test with nitric acid causes no effervescence. When this is the case, the contents of the kettle should be allowed to cool and settle for about 12 hours. The clear liquor can then be drawn off into a vat lined with lead a syphon may be used for this pur- pose with advantage. The lye can be made to any desired strength by evaporation. 5819. To Make Concentrated Caustic Soda Lye Kurten's Method. The lye fit for toilet soap must be either made from the purest German soda at 95 degrees of strength, or (which is better for the purpose) from crystallized soda. English soda of 80 to 83 degrees, such as is generally found in com- merce, is not to be used, as it produces a bad article. SOFT SOAPS. 73 When the lye for finer soap is to be made, 100 pounds lime are added to 100 pounds German soda at 95 per cent., whereas 45 pounds lime to 100 pounds crystallized soda is the general proportion. The soda is dissolved in the boiler with water, or with a weak lye remaining from a former operation at 20 degrees of strength, and afterwards added to the lime slacked to a state like broth. This mixture must boil 2 hours and be left to deposit. The next day, the lye, which probably may be at 12 degrees (Baume") must be taken out, and the boiler filled afresh. The lye drawn from the lime and at 8 degrees, is poured in with it to evaporate. By this method a lye is produced at a medium of 9 or 10 degrees, but it must be evaporated till, according to areometer, it shows 34 degrees. After the cooling it will weigh 36 pounds. This evap- oration of the lye is to increase its causticity, and to cause all the dirt contained in it to precipitate to the bottom, which can be done in a day if it is sufficiently strong. The clear lye is then drawn off from the dirty deposit, and put either into vitriol bottles or into an iron vessel well covered. If vitriol bottles are used, they must be filled with water in which some lime has been dissolved, to take away any acid remaining in the bottle, which would, if this precaution be not taken, absorb much of the causticity of the lye ; and this must be done several days before using the bottles. The dirt and deposit from the salt remaining at the bottom after the boiling, can be added to the lime in the weak lyes. "We have not made the experiment of using the lye stronger than 11 degrees before evap- oration, as we have learned from France that it must not be stronger than 11 degrees. Yet, after mature experience, it appears to us now that a lye can be obtained quite as good by adding more soda and lime to the lye, and thus increasing the strength to 18 or 20 de- grees, by which the evaporation is spared. In this case more vessels are wanted, which must not be of wood, but of iron, because the wood will color the lye, which must be especially avoided for fine soap, for the only means of obtaining a perfect soap, free from defect, is to use none except the finest and whitest lye, and oil or grease of the greatest purity. 590. To Test Lye. In testing the strength of lyes with a hydrometer, an exact result could be obtained if the caustic alkali employed by soap-makers and dyers were absolutely pure ; but as this is seldom, if ever, the case, the impurities which exist in the lyes under examination, influence the specific weight of the lye, and due allowance must be made for this ; thus, an indication by the hydrometer of 20 per cent, does not prove that the lye contains 20 per cent, of pure caustic alkali, but includes the foreign matter. Still, this method of testing will give com- parative strengths exactly. 591. White Soap. Lard, 40 pounds; and caustic soda lye, of 35 Baume", 20 pounds. Melt the fat by a heat not exceeding 150 Fahr.; add, during constant stirring, 10 pounds of the lye. After one hour's stirring, the heat being continued all the time at a moderate degree, the remaining 10 pounds of lye are to be added. When the paste has be- come smooth and uniform throughout, it is transferred to a cooling frame, perfumed, and left in a room of moderate temperature for a few days to set and ripen. It is then ready to be cut into tablets and pressed. 592. Almond Soap. Genuine almond soap is made from oil of sweet almonds, 50 pounds, and soda lye of 36 Baume, 25 pounds, the latter being gradually added to the former at a temperature between 125 to 150, and the whole stirred constantly until the mixture is a smooth paste. It is then transferred to a cooling frame, perfumed with attar of bitter almonds, and then left for several days to set and ripen. 593. Ordinary Cocoanut Oil Soap. 100 pounds cocoanut oil or 90 pounds cocoa- nut oil and 10 pounds of either tallow or palm oil saponified by the cold process with 225 pounds caustic soda lye of 21 Baume', and 75 pounds of salt water of 12 Baume", will com- bine to form 400 pounds of cocoanut oil soap. 594. Cocoanut Oil Soap. 100 pounds cocoanut oil and 56 pounds caustic soda lye of 36 Baum6, treated according to the cold process, will produce 153 pounds cocoanut oil soap. 595. Paris Toilet Tablet Soap. 87 pounds of this soap can be made by the cold process by using the following ingredients : 20 Eounds tallow, 30 pounds cocoanut oil, 8 pounds ird, 31 pounds caustic soda lye of 36 Baume, and 5 pounds caustic potash lye of the same strength. 596. Paris Toilet Round Soap. 25 pounds cocoanut oil, 75 pounds lard, 50 to 52 pounds caustic soda lye of 36 Baume", will produce 150 pounds of the soap. 597. Shaving Soap. Either 66 pounds tallow and 34 pounds cocoanut oil or 33 pounds of tallow, the same quantity of palm oil, and 34 pounds cocoanut oil treated by the cold process with 120 pounds caustic soda lye of 27 Banine", will make 214 pounds of shaving soap. An addition of 12 pounds of salt water of 12 Baume to the palm oil mix- ture, will add 12 pounds to the yield of soap. 598. Washing Soap. A mixture of either 60 pounds tallow or 30 pounds each of tallow and palm oil with 40 pounds of cocoa- nut oil, treated by the cold process with 125 pounds caustic soda lye of 27 Baume, and 25 pounds salt water of 12 Baume', will turn out 244 pounds washing soap. 599. Cheap Washing Soap. 60 pounds cocoanut oil with 40 pounds of either tallow or palm oil, treated cold with 135 pounds caustic soda lye of 27 Baume", and 50 pounds salt water of 15 Baume", will produce 278 pounds washing soap. Soft SoapS. These differ from the hard soaps in having potash in place of soda as their alkaline base. They are all more or less pasty or gelatinous; and they may be made either by the boiling or cold process. Of the soft soaps used in perfumery, that known as fig soap is the only one that is boiled. 601. Fig Soap. The fat stock is chiefly oil generally olive oil with the addition of SOFT SOAPS. a little tallow to give it the granular appear- ance called fig. 602. Shaving Cream. This is made by melting 20 pounds of lard in a steam bath at a temperature of 212, and then letting 5 pounds of caustic potassa lye of 36 Baurne run in very slowly, during constant stirring with a wooden paddle; when the paste becomes thick, 5 pounds more of lye are added in the same manner. After several hours' stirring the paste becomes firm, and is finished. It is then transferred to a mortar and triturated until the soap becomes perfectly even through- out, and assumes a pearly appearance. Attar of almonds is the perfume for almond cream ; and attar of rose for rose cream. They are dissolved in a little alcohol, and added during the trituration. The rose cream is colored at the same time with tincture of alkanet. 603. Rypophagon Soap. This is a mixture of equal parts of pale yellow resin soap and fig soft soap, perfumed with attars of anise and citronella. 604. Essence of Soap or Shaving Cream. Take J pound white soft soap (see No. 606), 2 fluid drachms liquor of potassa ; 1 pint rectified spirit, and perfume at will; put them into a strong bottle of glass or tin, cork it close, set it in warm water for a short time, and occasionally agitate it briskly until solution be complete. After repose, pour off the clean portion frojn the dregs (if any) into clean bottles for use, and at once closely cork them. If the solution be not sufficiently transparent, a little rectified spirit should be added to it before decantation. A little spirit (fully proof) may be added if it be desired to render it thinner. If much essential oil be used to perfume it, the transparency of the product will be lessened. 605. Soft Olive Oil Soap; Medicinal or Toilet Soft Soap is soap made of olive oil and potash. It is yellowish- white, inodorous, and of the consistence of thick honey. It is the soft soap (sapo mollis) of the British Pharmacopojia. 606. White Soft Soap is soap made of lard and potash. Only used in. cosmetics and as a toilet soap. 607. Fine Shaving Cream. Take of clarified lard, 7 pounds (avoirdupois) ; potash lye (26 percent, of caustic potash), 3f pounds ; rectified spirits, 3 ounces ; oil of bitter al- monds, 2 drachms. Melt the lard in a porce- lain vessel, by a salt-water bath ; then run in the lye, very slowly, agitating the whole time ; when about half the lye is in, the mix- ture begins to curdle ; it will, however, be- come so firm that it cannot be stirred. It will assume a pearly appearance by triturating in a mortar, and slowly adding the alcohol, holding the oil of almonds in solution. This furnishes a splendid shaving cream. 608. To Make Good Common Soft Soap. For a ban-el of soap take 12 pounds of potash to 14 pounds of grease. Dissolve the potash over night in 2 pailfuls of hot soft water, in the morning pour it hot over the grease, which must have been previously rendered down and put in the barrel, put more water on the potash that remains undis- solved; when hot, add as before, and so on until all the potash is dissolved ; fill up the barrel more slowly with cold water, finishing it the next day; stir it very frequently during the day and for several successive days. Al- low it "to rest for three months in the cellar. 609. Shaker Method of Making Soft Soap. Place a shallow iron kettle, to hold from 4 to 6 ban-els, just out of the wash-room, under cover of a shed. Extend or inch pipe for steam to the middle of the bottom, bending it to form of surface, and terminating with open end. Take another pipe to dis- charge cold water over the top of the kettle. Use the best quality of first sorts of potash, in the proportion of 6 pounds of potash to 7 pounds of grease, for a ban-el of 40 gallons. Break up the potash into small lumps, and dissolve it in say 2 pails of hot water to 24 pounds. It dissolves rather slowly when the potash is good. "When dissolved, put the so- lution into the kettle, add the grease quite warm, and stir the mixture together. Allow it to stand over night, if convenient. In the morning, apply a moderate jet of steam until the mixture appears ropy, or rather soapy. Shut off the steam and open the cold water valve, stirring the mixture as the water runs, until the kettle is full, or the required quantity obtained for the materials used. 610. To Make Good Lye. Hickory ashes are the best for making common wash- ing soft soap (when it is not desirable to use the potash lye), but those from sound beech, maple, or almost any kind of hard wood, ex- cept oak, will answer well. A common barrel, set upon an inclined platform, makes a very good leach, but one made of boards set in a trough in V shape is to be preferred, for the strength of the ashes is better obtained, and it may be taken to pieces when not in use, and laid up. First, in the bottom of the leach put a few sticks ; over them spread a piece of carpet or woolen cloth, wliich is much better than straw ; put on a few inches of ashes, and from 4 to 8 quarts lime ; fill with ashes, moistened, and tamp down well tamp the firmest in the centre. It is difficult to obtain the full strength of ashes in a barrel without removing them after a day's leaching, and mixing them up and replacing. The top should be first thrown oft', and new ashes added to make up the proper quantity. Use boiling water for second leaching. This lye should be sufficiently strong to float a potato. 611. To Make Soft Soap. Take about 4 gallons the above lye, and boil up thoroughly with 12 pounds of clear grease, then add the lye as it is obtained, keeping a slow fire, and stirring often, until you have a barrel of soap. After boiling the grease and 4 gallons of lye together, it may be put in a ban-el and the rest of the lye added there, which will form good soap .if frequently stirred, but the heating process is the best when weather and time will permit the work to be done. 612. To Make Soft Soap. Break up 8 pounds potash into small lumps, and put it into an iron pot with about 3 gallons boiling water; melt in another iron pot 8 pounds clarified fat; put 3 or 4 gallons hot water into a clean barrel, and add to it a ladleful each of the lye and the fat ; stir thoroughly, and add the lye and the fat, a single ladleful of each at a time, until the whole is thoroughly mixed ; then stir in a ladleful of hot water at SOFT SOAPS. 75 a time until the barrel is full, and stir till the mixture becomes a creamy mass ; put it away for 3 months in a moderately cool place anc it will be ready for use. 613. To Make Turpentine Soap. Cut up 3 pounds brown soap and melt it in 7 quarts water, then put it in a stone pot anc add 9 table -spoonfuls spirits of turpentine anc 6 of alcohol. 614. To Use Turpentine Soap. Make very hot suds with some of the soap (see las receipt), and let the clothes remain in it hall an hour. Then wash them out and rinse at other clothes are done. It is particularly nice for blankets and quilts, as it removes the dirt and requires very little rubbing. 615. To Make Soft Soap Hard. Put into a kettle 4 pailfuls of soft soap, and stir in it, by degrees, about 1 quart of common salt. Boil until all the water is separated from the curd, remove the fire from the kettle, and draw oft' the water with a syphon (a yard or so of india rubber hose will answer). Then pour the soap into a wooden form in which muslin has been placed. (See No. 549.) For this purpose, a wooden box, sufficiently large and tight, may be employed. "When the soap is firm, turn it out to dry, cut into bars with a brass wire and let it harden. A little powdered resin will assist the soap to harden, and give it a yellow color. If the soft soap is very thin, more salt must be used. 616. Labor-saving Soap. Take 2 pounds sal soda, 2 pounds yellow bar soap, and 10 quarts water. Cut the soap in thin slices, and boil together 2 hours; strain, and it will be fit for use. Put the clothes in soak the night before you wash, and to every pail of water in which you boil them, add a pound of soap. They will need no rubbing; merely rinse them out, and they will be perfectly clean and white. 617. To Estimate the Quality of Soap. The quality of soap may be properly estimated from the amount of fatty acids which any given specimen contains. The following simple analysis may be performed by any one, and may be relied upon as giving good results. The soap to be examined should be dissolved in water. If distilled water cannot be readily obtained, rain water will answer well enough. When a perfect solution is obtained, add hydrochloric acid. After a little while the fatty acids will be found to be separated from the other con- stituents of the soap. These should be col- lected, and their relative weight for any given quantity estimated. The relative weight thus found will be a sufficiently just indication of the quality. 618. To Test Soap. The readiest way to find whether soap will injure the delicate skin of women or children is to test it with the tongue. Good soap, in which the caustic alkali is neutralized by thorough combination with the fat, will not have a sharp taste. The soap used in medicine, and the transpar- ent soaps, are neutral and good. Many toilet soaps, and especially the imitation marbled castile soap, so abundant in the trade, contain too much free alkali. They have not been thoroughly boiled, and are very sharp. It is not advisable to use such soaps upon delicate skins, as they induce redness of appearance, and give the skin a tendency to roughen or chap, especially when exposed to the wind. 619. To Pulverize Hard Soap. Hard bar soap should be scraped or planed into fine shavings, dried in the sun, or by heat, thoroughly, and then pounded or crushed. After this, it should be placed in a bowl or kettle, and a small cannon ball should be used to pulverize it ; when thoroughly pulverized it may be sifted through a very fine sieve. 620. To Analyze Soap. Take a small portion of the soap, place it in a suitable vessel (a beaker glass), add ether to it, and next acetic acid in a somewhat smaller quan- tity. The liquid will separate, after a while, into two distinct layers, the upper of which contains in solution the fatty acids, while the lower layer contains the alkalies and salts, and such substances as might happen to be insoluble in the two fluids just named. By means of a pipette, the fluids are separated from each other. The ethereal solution is poured into a previously weighed beaker glass, and the ether evaporated upon a water bath, and next again weighed with the fatty acids it contains. The aqueous acetic acid is evaporated to dryness, and the quantity of alkali determined according to well-known methods. (See No. 586). 621. Analysis of Soda and Potassa Lyes. The following tables will show at a glance all the practical information necessary for analyzing or testing the strength of lyes, either simple or caustic, as well as affording thorough guidance in mixing or adjusting the strength of lye for any specific purpose. 622. Lorme's Tables. The following tables are used to transform stronger lyes into weaker of a definite degree of strength, and are by Mr. Eugene Lorme. The first column at the left of each table shows the quantity and the degree of the lye to be diluted. The second indicates the quantity of water to be added to the lye. The third gives the amount of the lye ob- tained by the admixture of both liquids. The fourth exhibits the degrees of Baume'a areometer of the lye. 623. Table showing the different Areometric Degrees resulting from a mixture of 10 gallons of soda lye, of 36 degrees Baume, with quantities of water varying from 10 to 90 gallons. Number of gallons of Lye of 36 degrees. Number of gallons of Water. Number of gallons of obtained Lye. Degrees of Baume of the mixture. 10 10 20 23 10 20 30 17 10 30 40 14 10 40 50 12 10 50 60 10 10 60 70 9 10 70 80 8 10 80 90 7J 10 90 100 6i 10 gallons of lye, of 36 degrees Baumo, weigh 112^ Ibs. 76 SOFT SOAPS. 624. Table showing the different Areo- metric Degrees resulting from a mix- ture of 10 pounds of soda lye, of 36 de- grees Baume, with quantities of water varying from 10 to 90 pounds. 627. Gerlach's Table, showing the percentage of Carbonate of Soda con- tained in its Solutions. Per cent. Specific Weight. Per cent. Specific Weight. Number of pounds of Lye of 36 degrees. Number of pounds of Water to be employed. Number of pounds of Lye obtained. Degrees of Baume of the mixture. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 1.00914 1.01829 1.02743 1.03658 1.04572 1.05513 1.06454 1.07396 1.08337 1.09278 1.10258 1.11238 1.12219 1.13199 1.14179 1.15200 1.16222 1.17243 1.18265 1.19286 1.20344 1.21402 1.22459 1.23517 1.24575 1.25681 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 1.26787 1.27893 1.28999 1.30105 1.31261 1.32417 1.33573 1.34729 1.35885 1.37082 1.38279 1.39476 1.40673 1.41870 1.43104 1.44338 1.45573 1.46807 1.48041 1.49314 1.50588 1.51861 1.53135 1.54408 1.55728 1.57048 10 10 10 10 10 * 10 10 10 10 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 21 14* Hi 10 9 8 6i H 5 nearly 8.8 gallons of lye, of 30 degrees Baume', weigh 100 pounds. 625. Table showing the different Areo- metric Degrees resulting from a mix- ture of 10 gallons of soda lye, of 30 de- grees Baume, with quantities of water varying from 10 to 90 gallons. Number of gallons of Lye of 30 degrees. Number of gallons of Water to be employed. Number of gallons of Lye obtained. Degrees of Baume of the mixture. 628. Schiffs Table, showing the percentage of Crystallized and Anhy- drous Soda in Solutions of Carbonate of Soda. 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 19 nearly 14 11 9 8 7 6 5 4J Specific Weight. Per cent, of Crystallized Soda. Per cent, of Anhydrous Soda. 1.0038 1.0076 1.0114 1.0153 1.0192 1.0231 1.0270 1.0309 1.0348 1.0388 1.0428 1.0468 1.0508 1.0548 1.0588 1.0628 1.0668 1.0708 1.0748 1.0789 1.0830 1.0871 1.0912 1.0953 1.0994 1.1035 1.1076 1.1117 1.1158 1.1200 1.1242 1.1284 1.1326 1.1368 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 '28 29 30 31 32 33 34 0.370 0.741 1-112 1.482 1.853 2.223 2.594 2.965 3.335 3.706 4.076 4.447 4.817 5.188 5.558 5.929 6.299 6.670 7.041 7.412 7.782 8.153 8.523 8.894 9.264 9.635 10.005 10.376 10.746 11.118 11.488 11.859 12.230 12.600 10 gallons of soda lye, of 30 degrees, weigh 104 pounds ; 75 gallons of this lye and 25 gal- lons of water give 100 gallons of lye of 25 degrees Bamne. There are 23J pounds ot caustic soda wanted for making 10 gallons of lye of 30 degrees Baume'. 626. Table showing the different Areo- metric Degrees resulting from a mix- ture of 10 pounds of soda lye, of 30 de- grees Baume, with quantities of water varying from 10 to 90 pounds. Number of pounds of Lye of 30 degrees. Number of pounds of Water to be employed. Number of pounds of Lye obtained. Degrees of Baume of the mixture. 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 17 12 9* n 6* 5* 5or5i 4i 4 9.6 gallons of lye, of 30 degrees Baume', weigh 100 pounds. TO MAKE HOME-MADE TALLOW CANDLES. 77 SchiflPs Table (Continued). Per cent, of Per cent, of Specific Weight. Crystallized Anhydrous Soda. Soda. 1.1410 35 12.971 1.1452 36 13.341 1.1494 37 13.712 1.1536 38 14.082 1.1578 39 14.453 1 . 1620 40 14.824 1.1662 41 15.195 1.1704 42 15.566 1.1746 43 15.936 1.1788 44 16.307 1.1830 45 16.677 1.1873 46 17.048 1.1916 47 17.418 1.1959 48 17.789 1.2002 49 18.159 1.2045 50 18.530 629. Table showing the percentage of Anhydrous Potassa in Caustic Po- tassa Lye. Specific Potassa in Specific Potassa in Gravity. 100. Gravity. 100. 1.3300 28.290 1.1437 14.145 1.3131 27.158 1.1308 13.013 1.2963 26.027 1.1182 11.882 1.2805 24.895 1.1059 10.75 1.2648 23.764 1.0938 9.619 1 .2493 22.632 1.0819 8.487 1.2342 21.500 1.0703 7.355 1.2268 20.935 1.0589 6.224 1.2122 19.803 1.0478 5.002 1.1979 18.671 1.0369 3.961 1.1838 17.540 1.0260 2.829 1.1702 16.408 1.0153 1.697 1.1568 15.277 1.0050 0.5658 630. Table showing the percentage of Caustic Soda in Soda Lye. Specific Gravity. Per cent. Specific Gravity. Per cent. 1.4285 30.220 1.2392 15.110 1.4193 29.616 1.228 14.503 1.4101 29.011 1.2178 13.901 1.4011 28.407 1.2058 13.297 1.3923 27.802 1.1948 12.692 1.3836 27.200 1.1841 12.088 1.3751 26.594 1.1734 11.484 1.3388 25.989 1.1630 10.879 1.3583 25.385 1.1528 10.275 1.3505 24.780 1.1428 9.670 1.3425 24.176 1.1330 9.036 1.3349 23.572 1.1233 8.462 1.3273 22.967 1.1137 7.857 1.3198 22.363 1.1042 7.253 1.3143 21.884 1.0948 6.648 1.3125 21.894 1.0855 6.694 1.3053 21.154 1.0764 5.540 1.2982 20.550 1.0675 4.835 1.2912 19.945 1.0587 4.231 1.2843 19.341 1.0500 3.626 1.2775 18.730 1.0414 3.022 1 .2708 18.132 1.0330 2.418 1 .2642 17.528 1.0246 1.813 1.2578 16.923 1.0163 1.209 1.2515 16.319 1.0081 .604 1.2453 15.814 1.0040 .302 To Make Home-made Tal- low CaildleS. Tallow candles are made in. two different forms ; the mould sandle is the easiest to make, but involves the expense of a mould made expressly for the rarpose ; the dip candle requires mare trouhle, jut no apparatus to make it ; the first cost, lowever, of a candle mould is fully compen- sated for by the superiority of the candles made by it over those made by dipping. 632. To Make Candle Wicks. The wicks are composed of cotton yam (what is known as No. 16 is a good size for the pur- )ose) ; for candles of 8 to the pound, about 40 ihreads, and for 6 to the pound, about 50 .hreads of yarn should be very loosely twisted .ogether. The light from a tallow candle can be improved in clearness and brilliancy by using small wicks which have been dipped in spirit of turpentine and thoroughly dried. 633. To Make Mould Candles. The wicks are secured in the centre of each mould jy passing over thin sticks, one of which is iaid over the top of the mould (corresponding to the bottom of the candles), and the other against the bottom points of the moulds. The end of the twisted wick is fastened to the stick on the top of the mould, and is drawn by a piece of hooked wire, through each mould in succession, leaving a loop outside the bottom points of the mould ; the loops are secured there by the bottom stick passing through them; the wicks are to be drawn tight and the last end tied to the upper stick. The melted tallow is then poured into the moulds and allowed to stand about 6 hours in a cool place, after which the bottom stick must be taken out of the loops, and the can- dles withdrawn from the moulds. The tallow- should not be heated much more than is ne- cessary to melt it. 634. To Make Dip Candles. Dip can dies are made by looping a number of sepa- rate wicks over a rod, and dipping them into very liquid tallow, until the required thick- ness is attained, allowing the tallow which adheres after each dipping to set or harden be- fore dipping again. Before the second dip, it is well to lay the wicks on a flat surface, and straighten them, and a suitable contrivance adopted for holding the rod while drying be- tween the dips. 635. Tallow for Making Candles. A good tallow for candles consists of about $ beef and f- mutton suet. If required for summer use it will be improved by hardening according to receipts No. 639 or 640 ; it can, if needed, be so hardened as to have almost the appearance of stearine. (See No. 638.) 636. To Make Lard Candles. To every 8 pounds of lard add 1 ounce of nitric acid. Having carefully weighed the lard, place it over a slow fire, or at least merely melt it ; then add the acid, and mould the same as tal- low ; this makes a clear, beautiful candle. A small proportion of beeswax will make them harder. 637. To Harden Tallow Candles. The following mixtures for hardening tallow- candles are patented in England. The can- dles are successively and rapidly dipped, first in Mixture I., which consists of stearic acid, 50 parts ; tallow, 44 parts ; camphor, 3 parts ; 78 TANNING. white resin, 2 parts ; and gum damar, 1 part. "When cool and hard they aredippedinto Mix- ture II., which consists of stearic acid, 70 parts; tallow, 24 parts; camphor, 3 parts; white wax, 2 parts ; gum damar, 1 part ; and finally into Mixture III., which is composed of stearic acid, 90 parts; tallow, 5 parts; camphor, 3 parts ; white wax, 2 parts. 638. To Harden Tallow by Capaccio- ni's Process. Melt 1000 parts tallow, and gradually stir into it 7 parts sugar of lead previously dissolved in water, being careful to Keep the mass constantly agitated during the process. In a few minutes diminish the heat, and add 15 parts incense (powdered) with 1 part turpentine, keeping the mass constantly stirred as before. Then allow the mixture to remain warm until the insoluble parts of the incense settle to the bottom, usually several hours. By this process the sugar of lead so hardens the tallow that it yields a material very similar to stearine (stearic acid), while the incense improves its odor. It is said that tallow treated in this way, when made into candles, will not gutter or run. 639. To Harden and Whiten Tallow for Summer Use. Gently boil the tallow with the addition of a little beeswax, 1 or 2 hours a day for 2 days, in a suitable kettle, adding weak lye and skimming often ; cut it out of the pot when cold, and scrape off the underneath soft portion, adding fresh but weak lye before the second boiling. The third day simmer, and skim it, in water con- taining 1 pound of alum and 1 pound saltpe- tre for each 30 pounds of tallow. "When cold it can, be taken off the water for use. Tallow thus treated will make good hard white can- dles for summer purposes. 640. To Harden Tallow for Making Candles. Use 1 pound of alum for each 5 pounds of tallow. Dissolve the alum in wa- ter, then put in the tallow and stir until both are melted together, then run in moulds. Candles made in this way will be as hard and white as wax. 641. To Harden Tallow with Resin. To 1 pound tallow take J pound common res- in ; melt them together, and mould the can- dles the usual way. This will give a candle of superior lighting power, and as hard as a wax candle; a vast improvement upon the common tallow candle, in all respects except color. Tanning. "When the skin of an an- imal, carefully deprived of hair, fat, and other impurities, is immersed in a dilute solution of tannic acid, the animal matter grad- ually combines with the acid as it penetrates inwards, forming a perfectly insomble com- pound, which resists putrefaction completely ; this is tanned leather. In practice, lime wa- ter is used for cleansing and preparing the skin; water acidulated with oil of vitriol (sul- phuric acid) for raising or opening the pores ; and an infusion of oak bark or some other astringent matter for the source of the tannic acid. The process is necessarily a slow one, as dilute solutions only can be safely used. Skins intended for curriers, to be dressed for "uppers," commonly require about 3 weeks ; thick hides, suitable for sole- leather, take from 12 to 18 months. Yarious modifications have been introduced into the process, for the purpose of reducing the time required for tanning, but so far with only mod- erate success, as the leather so produced is spongy and inferior in quality. 643. Morocco Leather is prepared from goat or sheep skins; which, after the action of lime water and a dung bath, are slightly tanned in a bath of sumach, and subsequently grained and dressed. 644. Russia Leather is generally tanned with a decoction of willow bark, after which it is dyed, and curried with the einpy- reumatic oil of the birch tree. It is this oil which imparts to Kussia leather its peculiar odor, and power of resisting mould and damp. 645. To Tan any kind of Fur Skins. This will be found an excellent plan for tan- ning any kind of skin with the fur on. After having cut off the useless parts, and softened the skin by soaking, remove the fatty matter from the inside and soak it in warm water for an hour. Next, mix equal parts of borax, saltpetre, and glauber salts (sulphate of soda), in the proportion of about -J ounce of each for each skin, with sufficient water to make a thin paste ; spread this with a brush over the inside of the skin, applying more on the thick- er parts than on the thinner : double the skin together, flesh side inwards, and place it in a cool place. After standing 24 hours, wash the skin clean, and apply, in the same manner as before, a mixture of 1 ounce sal soda, -J ounce borax, and 2 ounces hard white soap, melted slowly together without being allowed to boil; fold together again and put away in a warm place for 24 horn's. After this, dissolve 4 ounces alum, 8 ounces salt, and 2 ounces sal- eratus, in sufficient hot rain water to saturate the skin; when cool enough not to scald the hands, soak the skin in it for 12 hours ; then wring out and hang it up to dry. When dry repeat this soaking and drying 2 or 3 times, till the skin is sufficiently soft. Lastly, smooth the inside with fine sand paper and pumice stone. 646. To Tan Sheep's Pelts with the Wool On. "Wash the pelts in warm water, and remove all fleshy matter from the inner surface ; then clean the wool with soft soap, and wash clean. "When the pelt is perfectly free from all fatty and oily matter, apply the following mixture to the flesh side, viz.: For each pelt take common salt and ground alum, 1 pound each, and \ ounce borax; dissolve the whole in 1 quart hot water, and when sufficiently cool to bear the hand, add rye meal to make it like thick paste, and spread the mixture on the flesh side of the pelt. Fold the pelt lengthwise, and let it remain 2 weeks in an airy and shady place ; then re- move the paste from the surface, wash, and dry. "When nearly dry, scrape the flesh side with a crescent-shaped knife. The softness of the pelt depends much on the amount of working it receives. 647. To Prepare Sheep Skins for Mats. Make a strong lather with hot water, and let it stand till cold ; wash the fresh skin in it, carefully squeezing out all the dirt trom the wool ; wash it in cold water till all the soap is taken out. Dissolve a pound each TANNING. 79 salt, and alum in 2 gallons hot water, and put the skin into a tub sufficient to cover it; let it soak for 12 hours, and hang it over a pole to drain. "When well drained, stretch it care- fully on a board to dry, and stretch several times while drying. Before it is quite dry, sprinkle on the flesh side 1 ounce each of finely pulverized alum and saltpetre, rubbing it iu well. Try if the wool be firm on the skin ; if not, let it remain a day or two, then rub again with alum ; fold the flesh sides to- gether and hang in the shade for 2 or 3 days, turning them over each day till quite dry. Scrape the flesh side with a blunt knife, and rub it with pumice or rotten stone. Yery beautiful mittens can be made of lamb skins prepared in this way. 648. To Tan Muskrat Skins with the Fur On. First wash the hide in warm water, and remove all fatty and fleshy matter. Then soak it in a liquor prepared as follows : To 10 gallons cold soft water add 8 quarts wheat bran, $ pint old soap, 1 ounce borax ; by adding 2 ounces sulphuric acid the soaking may be done in one-half the time. If the hides have not been salted, add 1 pint salt. Green hides should not be soaked more than 8 or 10 hours. Dry ones should soak till very soft. For tan liquor, to 10 gallons warm soft water add i bushel bran ; stir well and let stand in a warm room till it ferments. Then add slowly 2^- pounds sulphuric acid ; stir all the while. Muskrat hides should remain in about 4 hours ; then take out and rub with a flesh- ing knife (an old chopping knife with the edge taken off will do.) Then work it over a beam until entirely dry. 649. To Cure Rabbit Skins. Lay the skin on a smooth board, the fur side un- dermost, and fasten it down with tinned tacks. Wash it over first with a solution of salt ; then dissolve 2-J- ounces alum in 1 pint of warm water, and with a sponge dipped in this_solution, moisten the surface all over; re- peat this every now and then for three days ; when the skin is quite dry, take out the tacks, and rolling it loosely the long way, the hair inside, draw it quickly backwards and for- wards through a large smooth ring, until it is quite soft, then roll it in the contrary way of the skin, and repeat the operation. Skins prepared thus are useful for many domestic purposes. 650. To Clean Furs. Furs may be cleaned as follows : Strip the fur articles of their stuffing and binding, and lay them as much as possible in a flat position. They must then be subjected to a very brisk brushing, with a stiff clothes brush; after this, any moth-eaten parts must be cut out, and be neatly replaced by new bits of fur to match. 651. To Clean Dark Furs. Sable, chinchilla, squirrel, fitch, &c., should be treated as follows : Warm a quantity of new bran in a pan, taking care that it does not burn, to prevent which it must be actively stirred. When well warmed, rub it thorough- ly into the fur with the hand. Kepeat this two or three times ; then shake the fur, and give it another sharp brushing until free from dust. 652. To Clean Light Furs. White furs, ermine, d huckleberry) wine; makes a good factious port ; blackberry wine ; morella wine ; npricot wine; apple wine- grape wine, ressurc is again applied, and the cider will low freely. As soon as it ceases, remove the )ressure and cut off' 4 or 5 inches of pomace rorn the sides of the cheese, place it on top, ind apply the pressure again as long as any 3ider will flow. 8 bushels of good apples will make a ban-el of cider. In a day, or some- imes less, the pomace will rise to the top, ind in a short time grow very thick ; when ittle white bubbles break through it, draw off he liquor by a spigot placed about 3 inches rom the bottom, so that the lees may be left iuietly behind. The cider is usually put in iarrels at once, and sold while sweet. 835. To Preserve Cider. Strictly peaking, we suppose the sweet juice of the CIDER. 95 apple is not cider, any more than the sweet juice of the grape is wine. It is converted 'into cider by fermentation. Those who pre- fer sweet cider resort to various methods for arresting this process, such as putting a hand- ful of powdered clay into each barrel, or 2 or 3 pounds of well burned charcoal. Others add a little mustard seed, about a gill of seed to each barrel. Sometimes a few gallons of cider are placed in the barrel, and then a rag dipped in brimstone is attached to a long ta- pering bung; this is ignited and the bung loosely inserted. After the brimstone is con- sumed, the barrel is rolled until the cider has absorbed the sulphurous acid gas. The barrel is then filled up with cider. The sulphurous acid gas acting on the albuminous matter in the cider arrests fermentation. The objection to this method is that, if too much gas is ab- sorbed, it may prove unpleasant, if not inju- rious. To obviate this, sulphite of lime is now used, which has the property of checking fermentation, making the cider perfectly clear, and imparting an agreeable taste. "We have tasted cider preserved in this way that was excellent, and we have also tasted some that was execrable ; but this may have been more the fault of the material than of the method. When the cider in the barrel is in a lively fer- mentation, add as much white sugar as will be equal to i or I pound to each gallon of cider (according as the apples are sweet or sour), let the fermentation proceed until the liquid has the taste to suit, then add i ounce of sulphite (not sulphate) of lime to each gallon of cider ; shake well, and let it stand 3 days, and bottle for use. The sulphite should first be dissolved in a quart or so of cider before introducing it into the barrel of cider. Agitate briskly and thoroughly for a few moments, and then let the cider settle. The fermentation will cease at once. "When, after a few days, the cider has become clear, draw off and bottle carefully, or remove the sedi- ment and return to the original vessel. If loosely corked, or kept in a barrel on draught, it will retain its taste as a still cider. If pre- served in bottles carefully corked, which is better, it will become a sparkling cider, and may be kept indefinitely long. (See Nos. 762 $c.) Some think that cider, when treated by this method, is liable to induce cramps and loss of appetite, but we have never experienced any such unpleasant results from its use. Another plan, which, however, we have not tried, but is strongly recommended, is to mix 1 pint of hard-wood ashes (hickory is best) and 1 pint fresh slaked lime with 1 quart of new milk ; this mixture is to be stirred into each open barrel of cider; after remaining quiet for about 10 hours the pomace will rise to the surface, and may be skimmed off; the clear cider can be drawn off by means of a fau- cet inserted near the bottom of the barrel ; it is advisable to strain it as it is drawn oft', to separate any hardened pomace that may re- main in it. (See Nos. 852 and 853.) What- ever method be adopted, the cider must be drawn off into very clean, sweet casks, and closely watched. The moment white bubbles are perceived rising at the bung-hole, rack it again. "When the fermentation is completely at an end, fill up the cask with cider in all respects like that already contained in it, and bung it up tight. The most perfect plan for excluding all action of the air from the sur- face of the cider, and preserving it sweet, is the addition of a tumbler of sweet oil before finally closing the bung-hole. It is not an easy matter to keep cider sweet and pure for any length of time, especially if the weather is warm. If the cider is not made until just before winter sets in, and can afterwards bo kept at or near the freezing point, it will re- main sweet and excellent. 836. Rules for Making Good Pure Cider. Always choose perfectly ripe and sound fruit. Pick the apples from the tree by hand. Apples that have been on the ground any length of time contract an earthy flavor, which will always be found in the cider. After sweating, and before being ground, wipe them dry, and if any are found bruised or rotten, put them in a heap by themselves, from which to make an inferior cider for vinegar. As fast as the apples are ground, the pomace should be placed in a previously prepared open vat, of suitable size, and with a false bottom, strainer, or clean straw aboutit. Letthepomace remain about one day, then draw off, return the first, and continue to do so until it runs clear. Let the juice percolate or filter for one or more days. The cider thus extracted will compare closely with any clear, rich syrup, and is alone deserving 'the name of temperance cider, and may be drank, or used for many purposes, as a choice and superior article. In this way, about one-third of the cider will separate ; the balance may then be expressed by the use of the press. To press out the juice, use a clean strainer cloth inside the curb, with some clean straw intermixed in thin layers with the pomace, and apply the power moderately. As the cider runs from the vat or press, place it in a clean, sweet cask or open tub, which should be closely watched, and as soon as the little bubbles commence to rise at the bung-hole or top, it should be racked off by a spigot or faucet placed about 2 inches from the bottom, so that the lees or sediment may be left quietly behind. The vinous fermentation will commence sooner or later, depending chiefly upon the temperature of the apartment where the cider is kept; in most cases, during the first 3 or 4 days. If the fermentation begins early and proceeds rapidly, the liquor must be racked or drawn off and put into fresh casks in 1 or 2 days ; but if this does not take place at an early period, but proceeds slowly, three or four days may elapse before it is racked. In general, it is necessary to rack the liquor at least twice. If, notwithstanding, the fermen- tation continues briskly, the racking must he repeated, otherwise the vinous fermentation, by proceeding too far, may terminate in acetous fermentation, when vinegar will be the result. In racking off the liquor, it is necessary to keep it free from sediment, and the scum or yeast produced by the fermentation. "When the fermentation is completely at an end, fill up the cask with cider in all respects like that contained in it, and bung it up tight, previous to which a tumbler of sweet oil may bo poured into the bung-hole, which will exclude 96 CIDER. the oxygen and prevent the oxidation of the surface of the wine. Sound, well made cider, that has been pro- duced as above directed, and without any foreign mixtures, is a pleasant, cooling and wholesome beverage ; while, on the contrary, the acids and drugs added to already impure liquor, retard fermentation, thus adding poison to poison, producing colic, and notunfrequently incurable obstructions. 837. To Make Good Fermented Cider. To make good fermented cider that will keep a year or more without turning too sour to be used for anything but vinegar, is not a diffi- cult matter. The first thing is to exclude all decayed fruit, but it should be quite ripe. Not a drop of water should be used in the process of manufacture. The sweeter the juice, the stronger the cider, and the better it will keep. Put the ban-el immediately in a cool cellar the cooler the better. The fer- mentation may go on slowly or rapidly, prac- tice differing in this respect. In the former case the liquid is treated in all respects like wine. The cask has a bung in which is fixed, air-tight, a tin tube bent at right angles, or a piece of india-rubber tube. The free end of the tube in either case dips into a vessel of water. This arrangement allows the gases liberated in fermentation to pass out, and the end of the tube being covered with water, air cannot pass in. The bubbling of the gas through the water shows how the fermenta- tion is progressing. "When this has ceased, the cider is racked off into clean casks, which are to be full and bunged tightly. Much of the excellence of cider depends upon the tem- perature at which the fermentation is con- ducted; a point utterly overlooked by the manufacturers of this liquor. Instead of the apple juice, as soon as it is expressed from the fruit, being placed in a cool situation, where the temperature should not exceed 50 or 52 Fahr., it is frequently left exposed to the full heat of autumn. In this way much of the alcohol formed by the decomposition of the sugar is converted into vinegar, by the absorp- tion of atmospheric oxygen, and thus the liquor acquires that peculiar and unwhole- some acidity known as "hardness" or "roughness." "When, on the contrary, the fermentation is conducted at a low tempera- ture, nearly the whole of the sugar is con- verted into alcohol, and this remains in the liquor, instead of undergoing the process of acetification. 838. To Make Fine Cider by An- other Process. After obtaining the juice as already directed (see No. 836), strain it through a coarse hair-sieve into open vats or close casks. "When the liquor has undergone the proper fermentation in these close vessels, which may be best effected in a temperature of from 40 to 55 Fahr., and which may be known by its appearing tolerably clear, and hav- ing a vinous sharpness upon the tongue, any further fermentation must be stopped by rack- ing off the pure part into open vessels, exposed for a day or two in a cool situation. After this the liquor must again be put into casks and kept in a cool place during winter. The E roper time for racking may always be known y the brightness of the liquor, the discharge of the fixed air, and the appearance of a thick crust formed of fragments of the reduced pulp. The liquor should always be racked off anew, as often as a hissing noise is heard, or as it extinguishes a lighted match held to the bung-hole. "When a favorable vinous fermentation has been obtained, nothing more is required than to fill up the vessels every two or three weeks, to supply the waste by fermentation. By the beginning of March the liquor will be bright and pure, and fit for final racking, which should be done iu fair weather. "When the bottles are filled, they should be set by, uncorked, till morning, when the corks must be driven in tightly, secured by wire or twine and melted resin, or any similar substance. 839. To Prepare Casks for Cider. Cider should never be put into new casks without previously scalding them with water containing salt, or with water in which pomace has been boiled. Beer casks should never be used for cider, or cider casks for beer. "Wine and brandy casks will keep cider well, if the tartar adhering to their sides is first carefully scraped off and the casks be well scalded. Burning a little sulphur in a cask will effectu- ally remove must. 840. Canned Cider. Cider may be pre- served sweet for years, by putting it up in air-tight cans after the manner of preserving fruit. The cider should be first settled and racked off from the dregs, but fermentation should not be allowed to commence before canning. 841. To Cleanse Cider Barrels. Take lime water and a trace chain and put them in the barrel through the bung-hole, first secur- ing a strong twine to the chain to draw it out with. Then shake the barrel about until the chain wears or scours off all mould or pomace remaining in the barrel. Then rinse well with water; after throwing out the rinsing water put in a little whiskey, turning the ban-el to bring it in contact wi'th every part, and pour out all you can. 842. To Clarify and Improve Cider. Cider should be stored in a cool place, and should not be drunk before it becomes suffi- ciently matured. To improve the flavor of a hogshead of cider, 1 gallons of good brandy or rum are frequently added, with 2 ounces powdered catechu (dissolved in water), 7 pounds good moist sugar or honey, ounce each bitter almonds and cloves, and 4 ounces mustard seed. These must be well stirred in, and occasionally stirred up for a fortnight, after which it must be allowed to repose for 3 or 4 months, when it will usually be found as bright as wine. Should this not be the case it must be fined with a pint of isinglass finings, or a dozen eggs, and in 2 weeks more it will be fit for use. If the cider be preferred pale, omit the catechu, and instead of the isin- glass, fine with 1 quart of skimmed milk. If wanted of a light reddish or rose tint, use $ ounce cochineal, and omit the catechu. 843. To Bottle Cider. Preparatory to bottling cider it should' be examined to see whether it is clear and sparkling; if not, it should be clarified again, and left for two weeks. The night before it is intended to be put into bottles, the bung should be left out of the cask, and left so until the next day, when it may be bottled, but not corked down BREWING. 97 an til the day after, as, if this be done at once, many of the bottles will burst by keeping. The best corks and champagne bottles should be used, and it is usual to wire and cover the corks with tin-foil, after the manner of cham- pagne. A few bottles may be kept in a warm place to ripen, or a small piece of lump sugar may be put into each bottle before corking, if wanted for immediate use, or for consumption during the cooler portion of the year ; but for warm weather and for long keeping this is inadmissable. The bottled stock should be stored in a cool cellar, where the quality will be greatly improved by age. 844. Champagne Cider. Good cider, pale, 1 hogshead ; spirit, 3 gallons ; honey or sugar, 20 pounds. Mix and let them rest for 2 weeks, then fine with skimmed milk, J gallon. This will be very pale; and a similar article, when bottled in champagne bottles, and silvered and labeled, has been often sold to the ignorant for champagne. It opens very brisk if managed properly. 845. Fine Champagne Cider is made as follows : To 100 gallons of good cider put 3 gallons of strained honey, or 24 pounds of good white sugar. Stir well and set it aside for a week. Clarify the cider with half a gal- lon of skimmed milk, or i pound of dissolved isinglass, and add 4 gallons of pure spirits. After 2 or 3 days bottle the clear cider, and it will become sparkling. In order to produce a slow fermentation, the casks containing the fermenting liquor must be bunged up tight. It is a great object to retain much of the car- bonic gas in the cider, so as to develop itself after being bottled. 846. Champagne Cider. (Another re- ceipt.) 10 gallons of cider, old and clear. Put it in a strong iron-bound cask, pitched inside (like beer-casks) ; add 2i pints clarified white plain syrup ; then dissolve in it 5 ounces tartaric acid ; keep the bung ready in hand, then add 7-J- ounces of bicarbonate of potassa ; bung it as quickly and as well as possible. 847. To Imitate Champagne Cider. Cider will resemble champagne if you put a tea-spoonful carbonate of soda, 2 tea-spoon- fuls fine sugar, and a table- spoonful brandy in a tumbler, and fill it up with sharp cider. 848. How to Imitate Cider. A very fair imitation cider may be produced by using the following receipt : 25 gallons soft water ; 2 pounds tartaric acid; 25 pounds N"ew Or- leans sugar ; 1 pint yeast. Put all the ingre- dients into a clean cask and stir them up well after standing 24 hours with the bung out. Then bung the cask up tight, add 3 gallons spirits, and let it stand 48 hours, after which time it will be ready for use. 849. To Imitate Sweet Cider. Take water, 100 gallons ; honey, 5 gallons ; catechu powdered, 3 ounces ; alum, 5 ounces ; yeast, 2 pints. Ferment for 15 days in a warm place (in the sun if possible); then add bitter almonds, i pound; cloves, h pound; burnt sugar, 2 pints ; whiskey, 3 gallons. If acid be in excess, correct by adding honey or sugar. If too sweet, add sulphuric acid to suit the taste. We should prefer to add cider vinegar for acidulating when necessary. 850. Cheap Imitatipn Cider. Take water, 35 gallons ; sulphuric acid, enough to make the water pleasantly sour ; brown sugar, 50 pounds ; alum, 4 ounces ; ginger, 5 ounces ; cloves, 5 ounces; bitter almonds, 6 ounces. Boil the last 4 ingredients in 2 gallons of the water for 2 hours, strain, and add, this decoc- tion to the other water. Burnt sugar may be added, to color, if wished. From 3 to 4 gal- lons of whiskey, if mixed with it, will give more body. It is generally known, we sup- pose, that bisulphite of lime may be advan- tageously employed in fresh cider to stop its conversion to vinegar. (See No. 835.) 85 1 . Cheap-made Cider. Take of good cider and water, 1 hogshead each ; molasses, 50 pounds ; alum, dissolved, i pound. Brim- stone matches to stop fermentation, by burning. 852. To Keep Cider Sweet. Allow the cider to work until it has reached the state most desirable to the taste, then add Ik tum- blers grated horseradish to each barrel, and shake up well. This arrests further fermenta- tion. After remaining a few weeks, rack off and bung up closely in clean casks. 853. To Clear Cider. To clear and improve cider generally, take 2 quarts of ground horseradish and 1 pound of thick gray filtering paper to the barrel, and either shake or stir until the paper has separated into small shreds, and let it stand for 24 hours, when the cider may be drawn off by means of a syphon or a stop-cock. Instead of paper, a preparation of wool may be taken, which is to be had in the market here, and which is preferable to paper, as it has simply to be washed with water, when it may be used again. 854. To Clean a Foul, Sour Cask, and Restore the Taste of the Wood. In order to accomplish this, dissolve about 1 pounds lime in 5 gallons boiling water. Rinse the cask to be restored with this liquid, and afterwards with boiling water. If the cask is very foul, it should also be rinsed with very dilute sulphuric acid after the lime water, and afterwards with boiling water. As a general thing, however, the lime water and boiling water are sufficient. To restore the natural taste of the wood, mash up in a mortar a handful of juniper berries and put them in the tainted cask, then pour over them several gal- lons boiling water, roll the cask violently, and set it first on one end, and then upon the other. 855. To Make Barrels Tight. Dis- solve in a water-bath 1 pound leather scraps and 1 ounce oxalic acid, in 2 pounds water, and dilute gradually with 3 pounds warm water. Apply this solution to the inside of the barrel, where, by oxidation, it will assume a brown color and become insoluble in alco- hol. This coat closes all the pores of the wood, and does not crack or scale off. Brewing. The art of brewing is simply and easily understood, clean- liness and attention being the principal points to be considered. It consists of five opera- tions, namely : mashing, boiling, cooling, fer- menting, and cleaning. The first process is simply to obtain an infusion of the malt. In the second, this infusion of malt is further impregnated with the flavor of the hops in the boiling, which is requisite for the preser- 98 BREWING. vation of the beer. In the third, this decoc- tion or infusion is cooled down to the necessary heat for fermentation, -which is excited with yeast, and .which fills it with carbonic gas, giving to the liquor that pungent taste for which it is esteemed. After this it is fined, or cleansed, to render it fit for drinking. 857. Brewing Utensils. These uten- sils in a small way (say for a hogshead, or 54 gallons of beer ), will consist of a copper capable of containing about 70 gallons ; and if the brick edge at the top is made sloping, and covered with lead, it will prevent any waste of the wort in the boiling. A mash tub, with a false bottom about 3 inches above the other bottom, bored full of small holes, to prevent the malt stopping up the hole of the faucet. In many cases, for the sake of economy, an old worn-out birch-broom is cleaned and fastened before the hole of the faucet; and others again have two pieces of wood nailed together, and bored full of holes, which is fitted to the side of the tub, so as to cover the hole of the faucet. Any one of these contrivances is to prevent the malt or grains from flowing out with the wort, which would spoil its transparency. The tub must be suffi- ciently large to hold 10 or 12 bushels of malt, with plenty of room for mashing or stirring. An underback, to receive the wort from the mash tub. An oar, or rudder, to stir up the malt in the mash tub. Two or three coolers. These should be broad and flat, that the wort may cool quickly ; for if the wort is too long cooling, it is likely to become sour in the coolers. These should also be raised a little at one end, that the wort may be run off at the lower end without being disturbed or shaken, and also that the sediment which falls down may not be again mixed with the wort. A fermenting tun. The mash-tub, when emptied of the grains, will also serve for this purpose. Casks, and oak stands for the casks and tubs to be placed on. The whole of these articles should be of a suitable size with the copper, which the cooper will always regulate, or m proportion to the quantity intended to be brewed. 858. Mashing. The purpose of mash- ing is to convert as much of the flour of the malt as possible into sugar, so that the extract drawn from it may contain the greatest amount of saccharine matter which it is capa- ble of giving. To accomplish this perfectly will depend upon many contingencies the heat of the water used in mashing, its quality, whether hard or soft, the most perfect mixing of the malt with the water, and the time of their remaining together. High-dried malt does not produce so much saccharine matter as pale malt. On the proper temperature of the liquor used will depend the goodness, flavor, and clearness of the extract drawn. When too high, or near the boiling point, the flour of the malt will be set, form- ing a kind of paste or starch, and the extract obtained will be little better than water. The surface of the grains after the mashing process is concluded will be covered with specks of white meal. The same appearance also shows itself when unmalted corn has been mixed with the malt. If the temperature be too low, the wort will be poor and devoid of strength, because the heat of the water is not sufficient to convert the flour of the malt into sugar, or to extract the saccharine matter from it. For pale malt the heat of the wa- ter must be higher than for brown, and so much the lower in proportion as the malt is browner. Thus, for the pale malt, the heat of the water for the first mash should be 178 Fahr.; for the second, 182. Pale and amber mixed, or pale malt approaching to amber, 172 for the first mash ; second, 178. All amber, the first 170 ; second, 176. For very brown, or brown malt, such as is used for porter, 154 for the first; second, 164. When hard water is used, the heat in each case should be about 2 less. An equal por- tion of pale, amber, and brown, or half pale and half brown first heat, 160 ; second, 166. The time for the standing of the mash is from an hour and a half to two hours?. In the summer months the mash should not stand so long by a quarter of an hour as it does in the winter. Heat the water in the copper to the required degree by Fahrenheit's thermometer. In taking the heat in the cop- per, if it is too hot, add cold liquor to bring it to the desired degree; but be careful to stir the hot and cold well together and mix it in- timately, because the cold water, being heav- ier than the hot, sinks to the bottom. The heat of the water being now reduced to the proper degree in the tun, the malt must be stirred in gradually. It is best for one person to throw it in whilst another mixes it well and thoroughly by means of the oar, so that there may be no lumps or clots of malt left hi it. The remainder of the water should be added by degrees, as the mash becomes too stiff to stir, until the whole is used. Reserve about i bushel of the malt to throw over the top when the mashing is finished. Cover the top of the tun with malt-sacks or cloths, to keep in the heat, and let it stand the. required time. Turn the tap partially, to allow the wort to run out slowly, and draw off some in a pail or bucket. As the first running will not be clear, it must be put gently back into the tun ; and if the second running is not sufficiently clear, turn the tap again, and let it remain a few minutes before drawing it off; then turn the tap partially as before, and draw it off into the underback, which must be placed underneath to receive it. As the wort runs out more slowly, the tap must be turned more fully, until the whole is nearly run out, and the bed of the grains looks dry ; then turn the tap, to prevent any more running off. While the mash is standing, the copper should be again filled with water, and heated to the required degree for the second mash; this should be ready by the time the first wort is drawn off; then, with a bowl or ladle, pour over the top of the grains, as gently as possible, about half as much water as for the first; cover the mash-tun, let it remain about ten minutes or a quarter of an hour, and draw it off as before, pouring back the first running until it is fine. The wort from the first mashing is always the best and richest in saccharine or sweet matter. The proportion of wort to be obtained from each bushel of malt depends entirely on the proposed strength of the liquor required. To ale or beer of a superior kind the produce only of the first mashing should be used. For ordinary or BREWING. 99 usual drinking ale, take the produce of the first and second mashings, mix them well, and ascertain the gravity by a saccharometer. This is an instrument used by brewers for as- certaining the strength of wort ; it is similar in principle to the hydrometer, but its scale denotes the pounds per barrel m excess of the weight of a barrel of water. The barrel or 36 gallons of water weighs 360 pounds ; and, in examining a quantity of wort, if the sac- charometer marks 60, it means that a barrel (36 gallons) of the wort would weigh 60 pounds more than a barrel of water, or 420 pounds. It is a sort of specific gravity, in which 360 is the unit instead of 1000 ; from which it can be seen that a saccharometer gravity of 420, as compared with 360, would be the same as 1166$ true specific gravity as compared with 1000. Some brewers express the strength of their wort by the whole weight of a barrel, others use only the excess of weight ; thus, in the example above, some would call it wort of 420 pounds, others would say 60 pounds ; either way is plain; the figures showing which plan is adopted. The usual limit for ale or beer is from 50 to 60 pounds, and for a very strong ale from 90 to 120 pounds per barrel. That made at the first gravity will be a brisk, lively and sparkling drink; but the last will be more heavy and glutinous, and can only be imperfectly fermented. 859. Boiling. As soon as the water is taken from the copper for the table-beer, damp the fire with ashes or cinders, and put in the wort. For every bushel of malt used, allow 1 pound hops, previously soaked in wa- ter taken from the first mash at 160 of heat ; add half of them at first, and the other half after the wort has boiled half an hour. 2 pounds of hops by this method are consid- ered to be equal to 3 pounds used in the ordinary way. The water in which they are steeped is strained off and put into the tun instead of the copper, which preserves the flavor of the hops. Let the wort boil as briskly as possible, for the quicker it is boiled the sooner it will break. Try it occasionally in a glass, and see if it has separated into large flakes ; if it has not, boil it a little longer ; when nearly ready, it will appear to be broken into fine particles. The extremes of under and over-boiling must be avoided, for when over-boiled it is with difficulty fined again in the casks. 860. Cooling. When the wort is ready, damp the fire, and draw it off into the cool- ers, keeping the hops well stirred to prevent their being burnt to the bottom ; strain it through a hair-sieve to take off the hops. The coolers should be as shallow as possible, that the wort may not be too long in cooling, or it may chance to get sour, and should be of the same depth in each, that it may cool equally. "When the first wort is drawn off, return the hops again into the boiler, with the wort for the table-beer, and -let it boil quickly for one hour and a half; and if 1 pound coarse sugar or molasses, and 1 ounce salt, be added to every 10 gallons wort in the boiling, it will be much improved. When the wort has been cooled down to 75 or 80 degrees of heat by the thermometer (this will depend on the state of the atmos- phere, fjpr when the weather is warm it should be cooler), draw it off into the fermenting tun, without disturbing tbe sediment at the bottom, which gives the ale or beer a dis- agreeable taste. This is always observed by the Scotch brewers, but others consider that it feeds the beer, which it certainly does, and always use it ; for whether it is the oleagin- ous quality of the hops, or the gluten ex- tracted from the malt, which is precipitated by the boiling, it cannot be of any injury to the wort. If it is the first, it is of essential service to give the full flavor of the hops. In each case it will be thrown off in the working. 861 . Fermentation. 3 pints good white fresh yeast will be about the quantity required to work a hogshead of beer ; but in larger brewings this will depend on the quantity there is in a body, the gravity, and heat of the atmosphere thus, the lower the gravity, the greater the bulk, and the warmer the weather, the less yeast must be used in pro- portion to work it, and vice versa. 3 pints being sufficient for a hogshead, a gallon will work 4 or 5 hogsheads in a body of the same gravity. First mix the yeast with a gallon or two of the wort, and a handful or two of bean or wheat flour in the fermenting tun ; when the fermentation is brisk, pour over another portion, and as soon as the wort is at the proper degree of temperature run . it into the tun, reserving out some of the ferment, to feed the beer as occasion may require. When it becomes languid, or if there is sufficient yeast in, it may be left out altogether. The fermentation should be gradual at first ; for if it goes on too quickly the beer is likely to become foxed, that is, to have a rank and dis- agreeable taste. The next morning the beer should have a thin white creamy head ; then, with a bowl or ladle, well rouse and mix it together. If, however, the fermentation has not been favorable, add some of the ferment ; and if rather cold, wrap some sacks or old carpet round the tun, and place some more sacks over the top ; also keep the door and windows closed. Or take a clean cask (the size according to the quantity of the gyle, or brewing), and fill it full o'f boiling liquor; bung it close, and put in the tun. In the evening rouse the head well in again ; the next morning the beer should have what is termed a cauliflower-head ; remove with the skimmer any patches of dark-brown yeast, and mix it well up together again. After the yeast has risen to the top, it will form a thick yeasty appearance, which should be skimmed off as soon as it is inclined to fall. A portion should then be taken out, tried with the sac- charometer, and noted. If not sufficiently fermented, it should be tried every two hours until it is so, and the head may be skimmed off at the same time. When sufficiently re- duced, cleanse it into the casks. 862. Cleansing. In cleansing ale or beer, the yeast should be skimmed from the top, and the liquor drawn off gently, so as not to disturb the bottoms. The casks should be plugged a little on one side, that the yeast may work and discharge itself at the bung-hole. A tub or pan must be placed underneath to receive the yeast as it works over. The greatest attention should be paid to the filling up of the casks with the wort 10O BEE WING. that is left, which should be done every half hour at first, ana as the working becomes more slow, every 3 or 4 hours, that the yeast may continue to discharge itself, otherwise it will fall to the bottom, and render the beer harsh and unpleasant, and liable to be excited on every change of the weather ; but by at- tending to these precautions, this will be avoided, and the working of the beer will be sooner over. When the yeast has ceased to discharge itself, plug the casks upright, mix a pound of the best hops with some old ale or beer, and scald them in it over the fire. If the ale or beer is required to be drunk soon, this mixture should be added warm, otherwise add it when cold. Mix it well into the cask by means of a long stick, and bung the cask close ; make a spile-hole near the bung, and put in a spile rather loosely at first, and after two or three days knock it in firmly. 863. Important Hints on Brewing. Small beer will require rather more yeast to work it than strong beer or ale. A portion of the wort at the temperature of 85 degrees should be mixed at first with the yeast. When the fermentation has commenced, the rest of the wort may be run into the tun at the heat of 75 degrees. It will not work so long nor so stoongly as ale, and may be casked the next day. Attend to the filling of the cask as directed for ale. In about two days the fermentation will have subsided, and the cask should then be bunged close. The fer- mentation will always show whether the degrees of heat have been well taken, and the extract well made. If too high, the air-blad- ders on the head will be about as large as a dollar piece. If too low, there will be few or no bladders, or very small ones ; but when well taken they will be in size about that of a 2 cent piece. The proportions of hops used for beer should be in accordance with the time it is to be kept. If for immediate use, 3 pounds will be sufficient for a coomb of malt (4 bushels). From 1 to 2 years, 4 pounds ; old beer, 5 or 6 pounds. The same if the wort is very rich ; or in proportion to its gravity use more hops, because beer or ale made from rich wort is always intended for long keeping. In general, 4 or 5 pounds of hops per coomb (4 bushels) is used for ales ; but for porter, 5 or 6 pounds, and for bitter ale, about 8 or 10 pounds; but in all cases care should be taken that the hops are of the best quality. The private brewer will find about i pound of raspings of quassia equiva- lent to 6 pounds of hops for preserving ale and imparting a pleasant bitter. Beer brewed for immediate use may be made from all pale malt, as it is more readily fermented than that from the browner sorts. It will not keep so well, and may be brewed almost in the hot- test weather, as it need not be cooled below 70 or 75 degrees. A mixture of pale and amber malt should always be used for keeping beer, and the wort cooled down to 60 or 70 degrees before it is put into a state of fermen- tation ; hence, from Autumn to Spring, or the months of October to March, have ever been deemed the most favorable months for brew- ing the best malt liquor, the former being considered the most fitted, as the beer has so many cold months immediately succeeding, for it to ripen and grow fine in ; besides, it does not want such watching and tending as ;he March beer does, in putting in and taking out the spile or peg on every change of the weather. The proportion of wort to be obtained from every bushel of malt will de- pend entirely on the proposed strength of the iquor required. For ale or beer of a superior dnd, the produce of the first mashing only should be used ; but if the ordinary or usual driking ale is wanted, take the produce of the irst and second mashings, and use the third br table beer. 864. Flavoring Beer. There are sev- ral simple and innoxious articles which can 3e used for this purpose by the private brewer namely, Spanish liquorice, liquorice root, car- damom and caraway seeds, and dried orange peel powdered ; these are very excellent when ised judiciously. Honey is also an excellent assistant to beer and ale ; about 2 pounds to a quarter (8 bushels) of malt being put into the copper just before the wort is turned out, or long enough to melt and incorporate with the mass. The same plan should be adopted with everything used for this purpose that is, throwing it in when the wort is at the full boiling point, for then it will not fall to the bottom without mixing. When, however, Spanish liquorice is used, it will be necessary to tie it in a net bag and suspend it. Salt and ground ginger, or salt and any other spice, are excellent for cleansing beer. 865. Porter Brewing for Families. To make this beverage, three sorts of malt are required, namely : pale, brown, and blown malt. The peculiar flavor of this liquor is given by the brown and blown malt, and no other material or ingredient whatever is re- quired different from other sorts of beer. The mixture of malt may be composed of half pale or amber, and half brown malt ; or, take for a hogshead, 4 bushels of pale or amber malt, 2 of brown, and 14 pounds of patent blown malt, and 6 pounds of the best brown hops. These proportions will make excellent porter, but the following may be used for a second-rate quality : 2^ bushels of amber, 1 bushels of brown malt, and 4 ?ounds of hops, with sufficient burnt sugar see No. 694) to give the desired color; or it may be brewed with all amber malt, using blown malt, or sugar coloring, instead of the brown malt. The water for mashing must be lower than for beer or ale, and be reduced to 164 or 166 degrees for the first mash, according to the instructions already laid down. All the processes are conducted the same as for beer or ale, with this ex- ception, that blown malt is boiled with the wort in a copper, and the second malt, if boiled separate, should be boiled violently for 2 or 3 hours ; and as there is generally but one quality of porter, the two kinds of wort are run together into the tun. 28 gal- lons of cold water may be run into the tun for table porter, which should be managed as table beer. If the color is not sufficiently high it may be heightened by using a pound of ^Spanish liquorice with the wort in the boiler, or by the addition of burnt sugar (Car- amel, see No. 694.) 866. Hints on Fermentation. The fermentation of beer or ale is a very import- ant part of the process of brewing. The BREWING. 101 quantity of extract obtained from the mail depends greatly upon the heat of the water used for mashing, and on the mashing process being properly conducted ; but whether thai extract be rich or poor, the flavor of the beer or ale, and its ultimate success in the cellar depends upon the wort being properly anc sufficiently fermented in the tun and casks Fermentation increases the heat and de- creases the gravity of the wort, altering altogether its original character by a decom- position of its parts, or a conversion of ife saccharine principle into alcohol, which gives to it that vinous pungency for which it is esteemed. If the fermentation is not carried far enough, the abundant sweet principle oi the wort will not be sufficiently changed to give it the necessary vinous taste, and it will be sickly and cloying, deficient of strength, and liable to become ropy. When the fer- mentation is carried too far in the tun, the vinous flavor is partly lost ; and if still lower, the yeast becomes, as it were, fixed in it, from the ale or beer having lost its natural energy to throw it off, and it will have a flat, stale, and disagreeable taste. Fretting (see No. 757) then ensues in the cask, and from being deficient of body it soon becomes sour, unless speedily drunk. All beer for keeping should be fermented in the tun to about one- fourth its original gravity, in a temperature of the gyle not exceeding 70 degrees. Light- er beer about one-third ; but in no case should it be allowed to reach so far as one- half. In winter, the fermentation of weak beer must not be carried quite so far as in the summei, as more unfermented matter must be left to nourish it in the cask during the cold weather, which will counteract its ripen- ing. Some allowance should also be made for the time the ale or beer is intended to be kept. Strong wort will bear a greater pro- portionate fermentation than weak wort, and consequently be stronger and more sparkling. Beer of this kind, intended to be kept, should be fermented so low as to ensure transparency and softness, with a proper degree of strength, for it will have time to bring itself round. Still, care must be taken to leave a sufficient quantity of unfermented matter for the supply of the gradual decomposition, the quantity left being proportionate to the time the beer is intended to be kept. Wort of 50 or 60 de- grees gravity (see No. 858) will keep well for 2 or 3 years, if reduced to two-fifths, or at least one-fourth. Ale is not fermented so much as beer, therefore a considerable portion of the saccharine matter still remains in the liquid, apparently unaltered. In conducting this process, both the thermometer and saccharo- meter must be the guide ; the last is indis- pensable. The results given by these should be carefully noted in a book kept for the purpose, with the heat of the atmosphere at the time the observations are made, which will serve as a guide for any future brewing. As soon as the head forms a brown, thick, yeasty appearance, and is inclined to fall, it must be immediately skimmed off. Particular attention must be paid to this point. It is at all times better to skim it before it begins to drop, than allow it to pass again through the beer, which will give it a rank, disagreeable taste, termed "yeast bitten;" neither will it fine well in the cask. After the head is skimmed off, a portion should then be taken out, tried by the saccharometer, and noted ; and if it is not sufficiently fermented it should be roused well up, and skimmed every two hours until the required gravity is nearly at- tained, when it should be watched with the greatest attention, and cleansed with a little salt and bean-flour, and any other flavoring ingredient may then be added, such as ground ginger, cardamom, caraway seeds, &c., and well mixed with it immediately it is reduced to the desired point. 867. The Acetous Fermentation may arise from premature fermentation, through the mashing heat being taken too low, when it may commence in the tun, underback, or coolers. If in the mash tun, the wort will ferment very rapidly, and produce a large quantity of yeast; but of course the liquor will be soured, therefore less yeast will be required to ferment it. When the first mash is affected, all the subsequent ones will share the same fate, and no extra quantity of hops or boiling that may be given to it will restore it to a sound condition. It may also arise from the mashing heat being taken too high. When this is the case, the fermenta- tion is languid, the yeast head is very low, and appears brown or fiery, accompanied with a hissing noise, and occasionally it will appear as if boiling. A larger quantity of yeast than usual is necessary to be added to wort of this description, to force the fermentation, and to discharge the yeast freely, in order that as little as possible may remain in the liquor, which would otherwise fret and become sour. The acetous fermentation may also arise from premature fermentation, either in the under- back or coolers ; hence, fretting ensues, and the liquor continually generates acidity. 868. To Correct Acidity in Beer. Acidity in beer may be neutralized by chalk, lime, alkalies, &c.; but it cannot be totally destroyed without spoiling the liquor. 869. Bittern. This is an adulterating mixture employed by brewers to impart a false bitter and strength to their liquors. Boil 4 parts Spanish liquorice in sufficient water until dissolved, and evaporate to the consist- ence of cream. Then add to it 1 part extract of quassia, 1 part powdered sulphate of iron, 2 parts extract of cocculus indicus, and 8 parts molasses. 870. Bitter Balls. These are used as a fraudulent substitute for hops in making beer, and are different in composition, to suit dif- ferent kinds of malt liquor. For ale : 2 pounds powdered gentian, and 1 pound extract of gentian, mixed with suffi- cient molasses to make a paste. Divide into ^ pound rolls. For pale ale : 1 pound crude picric acid, 3i lounds ground chamomiles, and i pound grains of Paradise, mixed with syrup. For porter or stout: either of the above, with the addition of Ik pounds Spanish li- quorice softened with a little boiling water. 871. Fining for Ale or Beer. It fre- quently happens that malt liquor, especially sorter, with all the care bestowed upon it in jrewing, will not turn out sufficiently fine to meet the taste and eye of the consumer, in which case it is usually subjected to the ope- 1O2 BREWING. ration of clarifying. For this purpose 1 ounce isinglass is put into 1 quart weak vinegar, or still better, hard beer, and when dissolved, a sufficient quantity of good beer may be added to make it measure 1 gallon. This mixture is called finings, 1 to 2 pints of which is the proper quantity for a barrel. The method of using it, is to put the finings into a bucket, and to gradually add some of the beer, until the bucket is three parts full, during which time it is violently agitated with a whisk, and this is continued until a good frothy head is raised upon it, when it is thrown into the barrel of beer, and the whole well stirred up, by means of a large stick shoved in at the bung-hole. In a few days the beer will usual- ly become fine. 872. To Ascertain Whether Malt Liquor may be Clarified by Fining. In some bad sorts of beer, isinglass will have no effect. This may be ascertained beforehand, by trying some in a long glass tube, or vial, with a little of the finings. These should be well shaken together, and then set aside for a short time, when it will be found that the finings will rise to the top, leaving the central portion of the beer clear, if it be in a proper condition for clarifying; but if, on the con- trary, they sink to the bottom, and the liquor still keeps foul, no quantity of finings, how- ever great, will ever clarify it. 873. To Clarify Obstinate Ale. This latter defect may be remedied by proceeding to fine it after the manner above described, and then adding, after the finings have been well rummaged up, either 1 spoonful oil of vitriol or gum catechu, dissolved in pint warm water, again stirring well for a quarter of an hour. Or 1 or 2 ounces tincture of catechu may be used instead, mixed with a little water. Either of these additions acts chemically on the finings, in the same way as good beer does, precipitating them along with the foulness, and thus brightening the liquor. The addition of a handful of hops, previously boiled for 5 minutes in a little of the beer, and then added to the barrel, and the whole allowed to stand for a few days, before pro- ceeding to clarify it, will generally have the same effect. 874. To Ripen Beer. The addition of a small lump of white sugar to each bottle of ale or beer, and a tea-spoonful of moist sugar to each bottle of porter at the time of corking, will render it fit lor drinking in a few days in ordinary weather. A raisin or lump of sugar candy is often added to each bottle with a like intention. The Parisians bottle their beer one day, and sell it the next. For this purpose, in addition to the sugar as above, they add 2 or 3 drops of yeast. Such bottled liquor must, however, be drank within a week, or else stored in a very cold place, as it will otherwise burst the bottles, or blow out the corks. 875. To Give Beer the Appearance of Age. The addition of a very little diluted sulphuric acid to new beer will give it the ap- pearance of being 1 or 2 years old. Copperas, alum, sliced lemons, oranges, and cucumbers, are also frequently employed by brewers for the same purpose. 876. Beer Heading. Alum and green copperas equal parts, both in fine powder; mix. Or, alum, copperas, and common salt, of each equal parts ; mix. Used by brewers to make their beer keep its head. 877. To Remedy Mustiness in Beer. To each hogshead add 1 pound new hops boiled in a gallon of the liquor, along with 7 pounds newly-burnt charcoal coarsely bruised, and a 4 pound loaf of bread cut into slices and toasted rather black ; rouse well every day for one week, then stir in moist sugar 3 or 4 pounds, and bung down for 2 weeks. 878. To Remedy Flatness in Beer. Stir a few pounds of moist sugar into each hogshead ; fermentation will ensue in a few days, and the liquor become brisk. On the small scale, the addition of & few grains car- bonate of soda or prepared chalk to each glass will make the liquor brisk and carry a head ; but it must be drunk within a few minutes, else it becomes again flat. This is an excel- lent method when home-brewed beer becomes sour and vapid. 879. To Recover Frosted Beer. Frosted beer is best recovered by the addition of a few hops boiled in a little sweet wort ; or by adding a little moist sugar or molasses to induce a fresh fermentation. 880. Foxing or Bucking Beer. Add some fresh hops, along with some braised mustard seed, to the beer. Some persons add a little made mustard, or solution of alum or catechu, or a little diluted sulphuric acid, and stir it well ; and in a week or 10 days after- wards, further add some bean-flour, molasses, or moist sugar. 881. To Remedy Ropiness in Beer. Add a little infusion of catechu and some fresh hops to the beer, and in a fortnight stir well, and the next day fine it down. 882. German Beer Bouquet. ^Accord- ing to Dr. Boettger, this liquor consists of a solution of the essential oil of lemons in light petroleum oil, and a coarse fusel oil, containing spirit colored by turmeric. 883. Spring Beer. Boil down 3 small bunches each of sweet fern, sarsaparilla, win- tergreen, sassafras, prince pine, spice wood, in 8 gallons water to 6 gallons of decoction or extract; strain; 4 gallons of water boiled down to 3 gallons of decoction, with pound hops ; strain ; mix the two extracts or decoc- tions together ; dissolve in them 1 gallon of molasses, and, when cooled to 80 heat, 1-J- pound of roasted bread soaked in fresh brewers' yeast ; fill up a 10-gallon keg ; when fermentation is over mix with it the white of 1 egg beaten to froth; bung it, and bottle when clear. 884. Spruce Beer. Boil 9| gallons of water; let it cool down to 80 Fahr., and then dissolve 9 pounds of sugar in it, having pre- viously mixed with it 1 ounce of essence of spruce; then add 1 'pint of good brewers' yeast, and pour it in a 10-gallon keg until fer- mentation is over; then add a handful of brick powder and the white of 2 eggs beaten to a froth ; mix with the beer, and let it stand till clear, then bottle. 885. To Make White Spruce Beer. Dissolve 10 pounds loaf sugar in 10 gallons boiling water, add 4 ounces essence of spruce ; when nearly cold add i pint yeast. Keep in a warm place. Next day strain through flannel, put into bottles and wire the corks. BEE WING. 103 886. To Make Wood's Spruce Beer. Boil pint essence of spruce, 5 ounces each of bruised pimento and ginger, and 5 or 6 ounces hops in 3 gallons water for 10 minutes. Then add 3 quarts molasses and 11 gallons warm water. When lukewarm add 1 pint yeast ; ferment for 24 hours and bottle, as in last receipt. This will also make a white beer by substituting an equivalent of loaf sugar instead of the molasses. 887. To Make Spruce Beer. Take 2 ounces each hops and chips of sassafras root, 10 gallons water ; boil twenty minutes, strain, and turn on, while hot, 1 gallon good molasses, and add 2 table-spoonfuls each essence of ginger and essence of spruce ; 1 table- spoonful pounded allspice. Put into a cask, and when cold enough add 1 quart yeast ; let it stand 24 hours ; draw it off or bottle it. 888. Essence of Spruce. Take of the young branches of black spruce (abies nigra), make a decoction with water (see No. 34) and evaporate to the consistence of molasses. This is used for fabricating spruce beer a right pleasant drink when it is fresh. 889. Root Beer. Take sarsaparilla (American). 2 pounds ; spice wood, -J pound; guaiacum chips, 1 pound ; birch bark, pound : ginger, j ounce ; sassafras, 4 ounces ; prickly- ash bark, ounce ; hops, 1 ounce. Boil for 12 hours over a moderate fire, with sufficient water, so that the remainder shall measure 5 gallons, to which add tincture of ginger, 8 ounces ; oil of wintergreen, 1 ounce ; alcohol, 1 quart. This prevents fermentation. To make root beer, take of this decoction 1 quart ; molasses, Bounces; water, 2 k gallons; yeast, 4 ounces. This will soon ferment and pro- duce a good drinkable beverage. The root beer should be mixed, in warm weather, the evening before it is used, and can be kept for use either bottled or drawn by a common beer-pump. Most people prefer a small addi- tion of wild cherry bitters or hot drops to the above beer. (See Nos. 821 and 891.) 890. Puffer's Root Beer. Prince's pine, 2 ounces ; wild cherry, 2 ounces ; hem- lock bark, 2 ounces ; wintergreen, 4 ounces ; sassafras bark, 4 ounces ; birch bark, 4 ounces ; spice bark, 4 ounces; Jamaica ginger, 2 ounces; white mustard seed, 1 ounce. Put in a per- colator and cover with boiling water ; let it stand till cold, then strain ; add to it enough boiling water to make 4 gallons. Take 1 gal- lon of this, add 1 gallon of molasses, or the same amount of syrup ; to this add 8 gallons of water and about 1 pint of yeast. 1 pint of alcohol added will much improve its flavor, and it will keep longer. 891. Hot Drops. Take of tincture of myrrh, 1 ounce ; tincture of capsicum, 2 ounces. 892. To Make Ottawa Root Beer. Take 1 ounce each sassafras, allspice, yellow dock, and wintergreen; ounce each wild cherry bark and coriander; J ounce hops and 3 quarts molasses. Pour boiling water on the ingredients and let them stand 24 hours ; filter the liquor and add $ pint yeast, and it is ready for use in 24 hours. 893. To Make Superior Ginger Beer. Take 10 pounds of sugar, 9 ounces lemon juice, h pound honey, 11 ounces bruised ginger root, 9 gallons water, 3 pints yeast. BoiJ the ginger half an hour in 1 gallon water; then add the rest of the water and the other ingredients, and strain it when cold. Add the white of an egg beaten, and -J an ounce essence of lemon. Let it stand 4 days, then bottle, and it will keep many months. 894. To Make Ginger Beer. Put in- to 1 gallon boiling water, 1 pound lump sugar, 1 ounce best unbleached Jamaica ginger well bruised, | ounce cream of tartar and 2 lemons sliced ; stir the ingredients fre- quently in a covered vessel until lukewarm ; then add 1 or 2 ounces yeast, and keep it in a moderately warm place so as to excite a brisk fermentation ; the next day rack and strain through flannel ; let it work for a day or two, then strain it again and bottle, wiring down the corks. 895. Ginger Beer Without Yeast. Boil 1| pounds bruised ginger in 3 gallons water half an hour; then add 20 pounds white sugar, 1 pint lemon or lime juice, 1 pound honey, and 17 gallons water; strain through a cloth. When cold add the white of 1 egg, and | fluid ounce essence of lemon; after standing 3 or 4 days, bottle. 896. To Make Ginger Pop. Take 5 gallons water, f pound ginger root bruised, ounce tartaric acid, 2 pounds white sugar, whites of 3 eggs well beaten, 1 small tea-spoon- ful lemon oil, 1 gill yeast ; boil the root for 30 minutes in 1 gallon of the water, strain off, and put the oU in while hot; mix. Make over night ; in the morning skim and bottle, keep- ing out sediments. 897. To Make Ginger Pop. Take 2 ounces best white Jamaica ginger root, bruised; water, 6 quarts ; boil 20 minutes, strain, and add 1 ounce cream tartar, 1 pound white sugar ; put on the fire and stir until all the sugar is dissolved, and put in an earthen jar ; now put in J ounce tartaric acid, and the rind of 1 lemon; let it stand until 70 Fahr., or until you can bear your hand in it with com- fort ; then add 2 table-spoonfuls of yeast, stir well, bottle for use and tie the corks. Make a few days before it is wanted for use. 898. Wahoo Beer. Boil for 6 hours in 4 gallons water, 1 ounce each sarsaparilla,. Sol- omon's seal, nettle root, and sassafras; 2 ounces each burdock root, comfrey root, and Prince's pine ; 2 ounces sweet fern, -J ounce wintergreeu, and 4 raw potatoes cut up fine. Strain, and add 1 quart molasses for each 3 gallons of the strained liquor, and a browned loaf of bread. When cool, put in 1 pint of good yeast, and let it ferment for 24 hours. It will then be ready to be put in bottles or a keg. 899. Lemon Beer. Put into a keg 1 gallon water, 1 sliced lemon, 1 table- spoonful ginger, 1 pint good syrup, and i pint yeast. In 24 hours it will be ready for use. If bot- tled the corks must be tied down. 900. Imperial Pop. Cream of tartar, 3 ounces; ginger, 1 ounce; white sugar, 24 ounces ; lemon juice, 1 ounce ; boiling water, H gallons; when cool, strain, and ferment with 1 ounce of yeast, and bottle. 901. Girambing, or Limoniated Gin- ger Beer. Boil 4-J- ounces of ginger with 11 quarts water ; beat up 4 eggs to a froth, and add them with 9 pounds sugar to the preced- 104r BREWING. ing. Take 9 lemons, peel them carefully, and add the rind and juice to the foregoing. Put the whole into a barrel, add 3 spoonfuls of yeast, bung down the barrel, and in about 12 days bottle it off. In 15 days it will be fit for drinking, but it improves by keeping. 902. Ginger Beer Powders. Fine pow- der of Jamaica ginger, 4 or 5 drachms ; bicar- bonate of soda, 3i ounces ; refined sugar in powder, 14 ounces; essence of lemon, 30 drops ; mix, and divide into 5 dozen powders. (Or 4 to 5 grains of ginger, 28 of bicarbonate of soda, 112 of sugar, and % drop of essence of lemon, in each powder.) In the other powder put 32 grains of tartaric acid : or 35 grains if a more decidedly acidulated bever- age is required. Or from 30 to 33 grains of citric acid. 903. Spruce Beer Powders. In each blue paper put 5 scruples of powdered sugar, 28 grains of bicarbonate of soda, and 10 grains essence of spruce. In each white paper 30 grains of tartaric acid. 904. Sherbet. Take 8 ounces carbonate of soda, 6 ounces tartaric acid, 2 pounds loaf sugar (finely powdered), 3 drachms essence of lemon. Let the powders be very dry. Mix them intimately, and keep them for use in a wide-mouthed bottle, closely corked. Put 2 good- sized tea spoonfuls into a tumbler ; pour in i pint of cold water, stir briskly, and drink off. 905. Raspberry Shrub. 1 quart vine- gar, 3 quarts ripe raspberries. After standing a day, strain it, adding to each pint a pound of sugar, and skim it clear, while boiling about half an hour. Put a wine-glass of brandy to each pint of the shrub, when cool. Two spoonfuls of this, mixed with a tumbler of wa- ter, is an excellent drink in warm weather and in fevers. 906. Aerated or Effervescing Lemon- ade. This may be made by putting into each bottle (soda water bottle) 1 ounce or 1^ ounces syrup of lemons, and filling it up with simple aerated water from the machine. (The syrup is made by dissolving 30 ounces lump sugar in 16 ounces of fresh lemon juice, by a gentle heat. It may be aromatized by adding 30 or 40 drops of essence of lemon to the sugar ; or by rubbing part of the sugar on the peel of 2 lemons ; or by adding to the syrup an ounce of a strong tincture of fresh lemon peel, or of the distilled spirit of the same. ) 907. Effervescing Lemonade, with- out a Machine. Put into each bottle 2 drachms of sugar, 2 drops of essence of lem- on, \ drachm bicarbonate of potash, and wa- ter to fill the bottle ; then drop in 35 or 40 grains of citric or tartaric acid in crystals, and cork immediately, placing the bottles in a cool place, or preferably, in iced water. 908. Plain Lemonade in Powder. (For ten gallons.) -j- pound tartaric acid in powder, 16 pounds sugar in powder, drachms oil of lemons. Hub and mix well. 1 ounce of this powder makes ^ pint of lem- onade. 909. To Make Superior Lemonade. Take the rind of 2 lemons, juice of 3 large lemons, i pound loaf sugar, 1 quart boiling water. Kub some of the sugar, in lumps, on two of the lemons until they have imbibed al" ;he oil from them, and put it with the remain- der of the sugar into a jug ; add the lemon uice (but no pips), and pour over the whole a quart boiling water. When the sugar is dissolved, strain the lemonade through a piece of muslin, and, when cool, it will be ready "or use. The lemonade will be much im- )roved by having the white of an egg beaten ip with it. 910. To Make Orangeade. Take of dilute sulphuric acid, concentrated infusion of >range peel, each 12 drachms ; syrup of or- ange peel, 5 fluid ounces. This quantity is added to 2 imperial gallons of water. A large wine-glassful is taken for a draught, mixed with more or less water, according to taste. This refreshing drink not only assuages the hirst, but has, moreover, strong antiseptic and anti-diaiThoea properties. 911. Imitation Lemon Juice. This is an excellent substitute for lemon juice, and jeeps well in a cool place. Dissolve 1J ounces citric acid, 45 grains carbonate of po- ;assa, and 2 ounces white sugar in 1 pint cold water ; add the yellow peel of a lemon, and, m 24 hours, strain through muslin or a hair sieve. Instead of the lemon peel, 15 or 16 drops of oil of lemon may be used to flavor. 912. Imitation Lemon Juice. Citric or tartaric acid, 2 ounces; gum, -J ounce; pieces of fresh lemon peel, j ounce ; loaf su- , 2 ounces ; boiling water, 1 quart ; macer- ite with occasional agitation till cold, and strain. Excellent. 913. Imitation Orange Juice. Dis- solve 1 ounce citric acid and 1 drachm carbon- ate of potassa in 1 quart water, and digest in the solution the peel of half an orange until sufficiently flavored; then sweeten with honey or white sugar. Instead of the orange peel/5 or 6 drops of oil of orange peel, with fluid ounce tincture of orange peel, may be used. 914. To Keep Lemon Juice. Buy lemons when cheap and keep them in a cool place two or three days ; roll them to make them squeeze easily. Squeeze the juice in a bowl, and strain it through muslin which will not permit a particle of the pulp to pass through. Have ready and i ounce phials, perfectly dry. Fill them with the juice so near the top as only to admit tea-spoonful of sweet oil in each,or a little more if for larger bottles. Cork them tight, and put them in a cool dark place. When you want the juice, open such a sized bottle as you will use in a few days. Wind some clean cotton on a skewer, and dip it in, to absorb all the oil. When the oil is removed the juice will be as fine as when first bottled. 915. Portable Lemonade. Take 1 pound finely-powdered loaf sugar, 1 ounce tartaric or citric acid, and 20 drops essence of lemon. Mix, and keep very dry. 2 or 3 tea- spoonfuls of this stirred briskl/iu a tumbler of water will make a very pleasant glass of lemonade. If effervescent lemonade be de- sired, 1 ounce carbonate of soda must be added to the above. 916. Lemonade Powders. Pound and mix together pound loaf sugar, 1 ounce car- bonate of soda, and 3 drops oil of lemon. Divide the mixture into 16 portions, wrapped in white paper. Then take 1 ounce of tar- BREWING. 1O5 taric acid, and divide into 16 portions, wrap- plug them in blue paper. Dissolve one of each kind in half a tumbler of water, mix the two solutions together, and drink while effer- vescing. 917. Lemon Soda Nectar. Juice of 1 lemon, f tumblerful of water, powdered white sugar to taste, i small tea-spoonful of carbon- ate of soda. Strain the juice of the lemon, and add to it the water, with sufficient white sugar to sweeten the whole nicely. When well mixed, put in the soda, stir well, and drink while in an effervescing state. 918. Milk Punch. Take 1 table-spoon- ful white sugar, 2 table-spooonfuls water, 1 wine-glass cognac brandy, i wine-glass Santa Cruz rum, tumblerful shaved ice. Pill with milk, shake the ingredients well together, and grate a little nutmeg on top. 919. Brandy Punch. Take 1 table- spoonful raspberry syrup, 2 table-spoonfuls white sugar, 1 wine-glass water, 1| wine-glass brandy, i small sized lemon, 2 slices of orange, 1 piece of pineapple. Fill the tumbler with shaved ice, shake well, and dress the top with berries in season ; sip through a straw. 920. Whiskey Punch. Take 1 wine- f lass whiskey (Irish or Scotch), 2 wine-glasses oiling water, sugar to taste. Dissolve the sugar well with 1 wine-glass of the water, then pour in the whiskey, and add the bal- ance of the water, sweeten to taste, and put in a small piece of lemon rind, or a thin slice of lemon. 921. Claret Punch. Take 14 table- spoonfuls of sugar, 1 slice of lemon, 2 or 3 slices of orange. Fill the tumbler with shaved ice, and then pour in the claret, shake well, and ornament with berries in season. Place a straw in the glass. 922. Sherry Cobbler. Take 2 wine- glasses of sherry, 1 table-spoonful of sugar, 2 or 3 slices of orange. Fill a tumbler with shaved ice, shake well, and ornament with berries in season. 923. Egg Nogg. Take 1 table -spoonful of fine sugar, dissolved with 1 table-spoonful cold water; 1 egg, 1 wine-glass Cognac brandy, wine-glass Santa Cruz rum, tumblerful of milk. Fill the tumbler J full with shaved ice, shake the ingredients until they are thorough- ly mixed together, and grate a little nutmeg on top. 924. Bottle Cocktail. To make a cblicious bottle of brandy Qocktail, use the following ingredients : & brandy, -i- water, 1 pony-glass of Bogart's bitters, 1 wine-glass of gum syrup, k pony-glass of Curacoa. Whiskey and gin cocktails, in bottles, may be made by using the above receipt, and substi- tuting those liquors instead of brandy. 925. Brandy Smash, h table-spoonful of white sugar, 1 table-spoonful water, 1 wine-glass of brandy. Fill - full of shaved ice, use two sprigs of mint, the same as in the receipt for mint julep. Lay two small pieces of orange on top, and ornament with berries in season. 926. Santa Cruz Sour. 1 table-spoon- ful fine sugar, 1 wine-glass Santa Cruz rum, juice of & a lemon. Put the ingredients in a small tumbler f- full of shaved ice, stir, and strain into a claret glass, and dress with thin slices of lime or lemon, and fruit in season. 927. Mulled Wine with Eggs. 1 quart of wine, 1 pint of water, 1 table-spoon- ful of allspice, and nutmeg to taste ; boil them together a few minutes ; beat up 6 eggs with sugar to your taste ; pour the boiling wine on the eggs, stirring it all the time. Be careful not to pour the eggs into the wine, or they will curdle. 928. Regent Punch. 14 each lemons and oranges, the rinds only, 18J drachms ground cinnamon, drachm ground cloves, 2 drachms ground vanilla. Cut, macerate for 24 hours with 2 gallons pure Cognac, and 2 gallons pure Jamaica rum. Strain, press, and add 12 pounds of sugar, boiled with 6 gal- lons water; skim, and add to the syrup 2 ounces green tea; let it cool, and add the juice of 60 lemons and 14 oranges. Filter through Canton flannel. 929. Bottle Wax. Shellac, 2 pounds; resin, 4 pounds ; Venice turpentine, 1| pounds; red lead, 1-J- pounds. Fuse the shellac and resin cautiously in a bright copper pan, over a clear charcoal fire. When melted add the turpentine, and lastly, mix in the red lead. Pour into moulds, or form sticks of the de- sired size on a warm marble plate. The gloss may be produced by polishing the sticks with a rag until they are cold. 930. Corking. Little can be said with regard to the corkingofbot- tles, beyond stating the fact that com- mon, cheap corks, are al- ways dear; the best corks w- , are soft, vel- vety, and free from large pores; if squeezed they become more elastic and fit more closely. If good corks are used, of sufficiently large size to be extracted without the corkscrew, they may be employed many times in succession, especially if they are soaked in boiling water, which restores them to their original shape, and renews their elasticity. The most common mode of fastening down corks is with the gingerbeer knot, which is thus made. First the loop is formed as in Fig. 1, then that part of the string which passes across the loop is placed Fig. 2. on the top of the cork, and the loop itself passed down around the neck of the bottle, and by pulling the ends of the cord is made tight beneath the rim ; the Fig. 3. ends of the string are finally brought up, and tied either in a double knot or in a bow on the . top of the cork. When ginger-beer is made at home it will be found most advantageous to use the best corks, and to tie them down with a bow, when both corks and strings may be made use of repeatedly. For effervescent 106 BREWING. wines, such as champagne, gooseberry, &c., which require to be kept a longer time, and Fig. 4 are more valuable, a securer knot is desirable, which may be made thus : A loop, as in Fig. 2, is first formed, and the lower end is then turned upwards and ( carried behind the loop * as shown in Fig. 3; it is then pulled through the loop as in Fig. 4, and in this state is put over the neck of the bottle; the part a being on one side, and the two parts of the loop on the other ; on pull- ing the two ends the whole becomes tight _. round the neck, and J!\g, 5. j. Qe en( j g> -which should be quite opposite, are to be brought up over the cork, twice twisted, as in Fig. 5, and then tied in a single knot. 931. Distillation of Whiskey and New England Rum. The process of dis- tillation commences with the fermentation of grain or molasses by the presence of yeast, and this is called mashing, or preparing the mash. Strictly speaking, indeed, the spirits are not produced by distillation : that is done by the previous step of fermentation, and dis- tillation merely separates the spirits from the mixture in which they already exist. The object of fermentation is to convert the starchy principle of the grain into sugar, or to sac- charify it. After being agitated for 2 or 3 hours, the saccharine infusion, called wort, is drawn off from the grains and cooled. To this wort is now added a certain quantity of yeast or leaven, which induces the vinous fermentation, and resolves the saccharine matter into alco- hol and carbonic acid, accompanied by a rise of temperature. The alcoholic mixture which results is called the wash, and is now ready for distillation. 932. How to Prepare Yeast for Rye Whiskey or New England Rum. To prepare yeast for 80 gallons mash, take 2 pounds of wheat meal and dilute it with suffi- cient warm water to make a thin paste. Then boil 2 ounces of hops in a quart of water, and when cold take out the hops and throw them away. Then dilute 1 quart of malt in a quart of water. Mix, cold, the hop water, paste and malt well together, and add half a pound of leaven. Cover the jar containing the mix- ture with a piece of cloth, and keep it 3 or 4 hours in sonic warm place until it rises. The fermentation will be perfect after the whole has arisen and then sunk down. Then add 2 gallons of the mash, stir the whole, mix it with 80 gallons of the mash, and begin the fermentation. This receipt is the very best for rye whiskey. 933. To Prepare Yeast for New Eng- land Rum. To 80 gallons mash, add 1 gal- lon brewers' yeast and 4 pound carbonate of ammonia dissolved in a pint of water. Stir well, and begin the fermentation. Good for New England rum. 934. To Prepare Yeast for Rye Whiskey. To 80 gallons of mash, add 1 gallon yeast, 5 quarts of malt, aud 1 pound of molasses. Dilute the inalt with 2 quarts of water, and add the molasses. Keep the whole in a warm place until it rises, as described in No. 931. Add the yeast to the mash and stir; afterwards add the molasses and malt and stir again. Then begin the fermentation. Good for rye whiskey. 935. How to Prepare Mash for New England Rum. For a still by steam or fire. To prepare 80 gallons rnash, reduce the mo- lasses 18 degrees by the saccharometer, add yeast No. 932, and stir well. Let it fer- ment at a temperature of 75 Fahrenheit, un- til the mash is reduced to 0. But as it is very difficult to get such a reduction, the operator may begin to distill when the mash marks 2 or 3 degrees by the saccharometer. Charge three-fourths of the still, and begin distilling. 936. How to Prepare Mash for Rye Whiskey. For a still by steam or fire. To prepare 80 gallons mash, grind the rye into coarse powder, then charge the fermenting tubs in the proportion of 110 pounds of rye to 80 gallons of water, and mix yeast No. 931 or 933. Let it ferment at a temperature of 75 or 80 Fahr., until the fermentation is completed. The fermentation will be perfect after the mash rises and sinks. "When this is done, charge three-fourths of the still and be- gin distilling. In preparing the mash, the op- erator may use all rye, as directed above this makes the best quality of whiskey or use three-fifths rye and two-fifths corn, or three- fifths corn aud two-fifths rye. 937. Distillation with or without a Heater. Distillers usually employ a heater to hasten the process of distillation. "When the heater is employed, the mash passes from the fermenting tubs into the heater. During the time occupied in distilling over the charge of the still, it is necessary to keep a heat of 125 degrees in the heater. The mash passes directly from the heater into the still by means of a pipe or gutter, according to the general arrangement of the apparatus. Distill until the spirit which runs from the worm marks 10 degrees below proof. This first run is called high wine. Then remove the receiv- er that contains the high wine, and substitute another. Continue to distill until the low wine ceases to blaze when it is thrown in the fire. "Whenever this occurs, stop the opera- tion, and keep the low wine for the next dis- tillation. Then clean the still and charge it with fresh mash. "When the operator does not employ the heater, the mash passes from the fermenting tubs immediately into the still. No uniform disposition is necessary for the fermenting tubs or heater ; all depends upon the general arrangement of the 'apparatus. The distiller need not be informed that the apparatus must be arranged so as to save la- bor. If the mash tubs are above the still, connect them by a gutter or pipe ; if on a lev- el with the still, employ a hand pump. 938. How to Pack a Rectifying Tub. To rectify from 10 below proof to 50 abnvo PERFUMER T. proof. 30 bushels of inaple charcoal are re- quired for a tub seven feet high and four feet in diameter; a tub of this size will give a clear bed of 14 inches. At two inches from the bottom of the tub place a false bottom perforated with i-inch holes, and cover this bottom with sailcloth or blanket. Then pack in the charcoal regularly and very tightly with a wooden pestle. Great attention should be given to this part of the operation, in or- der to prevent the occurrence of holes or crevices in the charcoal during the process of nitration. Pack the sides of the tub thor- oughly. Cover the charcoal with sailcloth, place laths over the cloth, and use heavy Btones to keep the charcoal down. Perfumery. The receipts in this department embrace a great variety of odorous essences, extracts, tinctures, oils, po- mades, cosmetics, dentifrices, and other articles of the toilet, and are all derived from the latest and best authorities. 940. How to Prepare Essences and Perfumed Spirits. The scented spirits of the perfumer are merely alcoholic solutions of the aromatic and odorous principles of the substances they represent, obtained in one or other of the following ways: By simply add- ing essential oil or other odoriferous matter to the spirit, and agitating them together until so- lution is complete. Occasionally the resulting alcoholic solution is distilled. By macerating ordigesting the ingredients (previously bruised or pulverized) in'the spirit, with frequent agi- tation, for a few days, when the resulting tincture is either decanted and filtered (if ne- cessary), or the whole is thrown into a still, and submitted to distillation by a gentle heat. In the former case, the spirit retained in the pores of the solid ingredients, and which, con- sequently, cannot be drawn off, is obtained by powerful pressure. (See Nos. 39 and 40.) By digesting the spirit, with frequent agita- tion on highly scented pomade or oil, in a close vessel, at a gentle heat for some hours, and the next day decanting the perfumed spirit. (See No. 40.) Distillation is only ap- plicable to substances of which the fragrant principles are volatile, and readily pass over with the spirit during the process. Thus, flowers, flowering tops, herbs, seeds, &c., may, in general, be so treated ; but not musk, am- bergris, vanilla, and a few other substances, of which the odor is of a more fixed nature. (Sec No. 13.) In proceeding by distillation, one of the first points to be attended to is, to see that the still, condensing- worm, or refri- gerator, and the receiver, be perfectly clean and sweet, and absolutely free from the odor of any previous distillation. The lute em- ployed to secure the still-head or capital to the still must also be of a simple character, incapable of conveying any taint to the hot vapor that comes in contact with it. (Linseed- meal or equal weights of linseed-meal and whiting, made into a stiff paste or dough with water, is a good lute for the purpose. Sweet almond-cake meal is still better.) The most convenient and manageable source of heat is high-pressure steam supplied from an adjacent boiler, the body of the still being enclosed in 107 a steam-jacket for the purpose. A water-bath, the boiling-point of which should be raised by the addition of about i its weight of com- mon salt, comes next in point of convenience and effect. When the still is exposed to the heat of a naked fire, or that of dry flues, a little water must be put into it along with the spirit and other ingredients, to prevent empy- reuma ; and the greatest care must be taken to stop the process, and to remove the re- ceiver, as soon as the proper quantity of dis- tillate is obtained. If this be neglected, the odor of the whole may be vitiated. Moder- ately rapid distillation is favorable to the odor of the product, as is also the elevation of the boiling-point in the liquid operated on. Spirit . distilled from aromatics decreases in odor with the boiling-point of the ingredients in the still. To raise the latter, the addition of 1 to 1 pounds of common salt per gallon is often advantageously made. (See Nos. 5, 6 and 7.) By one or other of the above methods, or a combination of them, are, in general, prepared all the "eaux," "esprits," and "extraits," of the perfumers. As a rule, extraits and essences are preferred to eaux and esprits as the basis of good perfumery, when the color is not objectionable. "What- ever process is adopted, the utmost care must be taken in the selection of the spirit used. Only spirit that is absolutely pure, flavorless, and scentless, must be employed, if we desire the product to be of fine quality. Malt-spirit or corn-spirit contaminated, even in the very slightest degree, with fusel-oil or corn-oil, or a whiskey-odor, is utterly unfit for the purpose. So also the refined methylated spirit now so commonly and fraudulently sold as spirit of wine. The extreme purity of the spirit em- ployed by the Frenchmanufacturingperfumers it being actually spirit of wine, and not merely so in name is one of the reasons why their odoriferous spirits are so much superior to those of the American houses. Great care must also be taken in the selection of the es- sential oils intended to be employed in making perfumed spirits. These should be pure or genuine, and should be pale and recent, or of the last season's distillation. If they be old, or have been much exposed to the air, they will contain more or less resin, and their alco- holic solution will be defective in fragrance, and be liable to permanently stain delicate articles of clothing to which it may be ap- plied. The strength of the spirit used for concentrated essences, as a rule, should not be less than 90 per cent., or of the specific gravity .8332. A few require a spirit of even greater strength than this. The first quality of extraits, particularly those prepared from pomades and oils, and many of the eaux and esprits, also require 90 per cent, spirit. The strength of the spirit for the others, and for second qualities (commonly sold as the best in the stores), must be fully 75 per cent., or of the specific gravity .8765 ; that of the third quality fully 70 per cent., or specific gravity .8892; and that of the fourth quality fully proof, or specific gravity .920. The last is the lowest quality, and the weakest of any kind made by respectable perfumers ; but the double distilled lavender-water, eau de Co- logne, and other scents, vended in little showy bottles, by the druggists, and in fancy-stores, 108 PERFUMERY. are commonly even much weaker than this, being often under proof. (See No. 1435.) The capacity of spirit, at this strength, of dissolv- ing essential oil and other odorous matter is, however, very little. The solvent power of spirit decreases with its strength, but much more rapidly. (Cooley.) 941. Essences. The term essence is generally very loosely applied to a prepara- tion of almost any kind, that is supposed to contain in a high degree the essential or dis- tinctive principle or quality of some substance. Thus, the essential or volatile oils obtained from vegetable substances by distillation; concentrated infusions, decoctions, aqueous solutions, and tinctures, are all often errone- ously termed essences. In perfumery the word "essence" is ap- plied only to a solution of an essential oil in deodorized alcohol, in the proportion, usually, of 2 drachms to 2 ounces of the essential oil to 1 quart of rectified spirits. Sometimes an essence, using the term in its correct sense, is distilled, with the addition of a little water; it is then called distilled aromatic spirits. 942. Essences of Flowers. The es- sences of those flowers which are not separate- ly given in this work, may be made by one or other of the following general formulae. Take of essential oil (of the respective flowers), 1 ounce avoirdupois, and rectified spirit 90 per cent. 1 pint (Imperial); dissolve as directed for " Essence of Almonds." Or, take of the (respective) flowers, 3 to 5 pounds; proof spint, 2 gallons ; digest for a few days, and then draw over, by distillation, 1 gallon of essence. For those flowers that are not strongly fragrant, the product may be distilled a second and a third time, or even oftener, from fresh flowers, as noticed under " Essence of Roses." The products obtained by distilla- tion are always colorless ; and hence flowers rich in color may, in general, be advantage- ously so treated. The flowers should be select- ed when in their state of highest fragrance ; and should be picked to pieces, or crashed or bruised, as their nature may indicate. With many, the last is facilitated by the addition of some clean sand or common salt. Or, proceed in the way described under " Essence of Tuberose." This applies to most of those flowers that contain little fragrant oil, and of which the odor is extremely delicate. A small quantity of some other odorous essence or volatile oil is commonly added to the simple essences of flowers, at will, to enrich or modify the fragrance, each manufacturer usually pursuing his own taste in the matter. In some cases, spirit is impregnated with a combination of essential oils and other odorous substances, so as to produce, artificially, an odor resembling or approaching that of the particular flowers after which the products are named ; although there may be none of the respective flowers employed in their prepara- tion. This is particularly the case with flowers of which the odorous principle is difficult or troublesome to extract, or which possess very little of it. So also of the essences of many flowers having strange or attractive names, and no true fragrance. Hence arises the al- most endless variety of fragrant essences, esprits, and similar preparations, vended by the perfumers of the present day, numbers of which are mere artificial combinations of other perfumes. ( Cooley. ) 943. Essence of Almonds; Essence of Bitter Almonds ; Essence of Peach- kernels; Almond Flavor. Take of essen- tial oil of almonds, 1 fluid ounce ; and recti- fied spirit (90 per cent.), 19 fluid ounces ; mix, and agitate or shake them together until united. 944. Essence of Roses. Take of pure otto of roses li drachms (Troy) ; and alcohol (96 per cent.) 1 pint (Imperial) ; mix, place the bottle in a vessel of warm water until its contents acquire the temperature of about 85 Fahr., then cork it close, and agitate it smart- ly until the whole is quite cold. Very fine. 945. Extra Essence of Roses. Take of petals of roses (fresh) 3 pounds avoirdu- pois; and rectified spirit (90 per cent.) 5 Imperial quarts ; digest the petals (picked to pieces) in the spirit for 24 hours, then distill to dryness by the heat of a water-bath. Di- gest the distillate (product of distillation) on a fresh quantity of rose-petals, and re-distill, as before; and repeat the whole process of maceration and distillation a third, fourth, fifth, and sixth time, or oftener, the last time observing to conduct the distillation rapidly, and to draw over only 1 gallon, which is the essence. Delicately and delightfully fragrant. It improves by age. The product of each of the above receipts is very superior ; but that of the last has a peculiar delicacy of flavor, which distinguishes it from those prepared from the otto. Some makers add to each pint of the former 20 or 30 drops each oil of bergamot and neroli, and 15 or 20 drops essence of musk ; but the product of the last formula is scarcely improved by any addition, unless it be a very little neroli or essence d'ambrette, or both, as the case may indicate. The best rose leaves to use are those of the rosa centifolia (cabbage-rose, damask-rose), or rosa sempervirens (musk-rose), or mixtures of them. 946. Essence of Rondeletia ; Extrait de Rondeletia. Various formulae are cur- rent for this exquisite perfume, of which scarcely any produce an article approaching in excellence the proprietary one. The fol- lowing is an exception : Take of oil of laven- der (Mitcham), | ounce avoirdupois; oil of cloves (finest), 5 drachms avoirdupois : oil of bergamot, 4 drachms ; i drachm each of the finest essence of ambergris and musk ; recti- fied spirit (strongest), f Imperial pint; agitate them together until completely united. Some persons add ^ drachm of neroli, or of oil of verbena (Indian lemon-grass), with or without 10 or 12 drops of otto of roses. Very fine. 947. Curious Essence. Take of otto of roses 2 drachms; oil of rose- geranium, 1 drachm; essence of musk, 3 Imperial fluid drachms ; essence of ambergris, 1 Imperial fluid drachm ; rectified spirit (warm), 1 pint ; mix, closely cork the bottle, and agitate fre- quently until cold. A powerful, durable, and very agreeable perfume. 948. Essence de Frangipane; Ex- trait de Frangipane; Frangipanni. Take of neroli, 2 Imperial fluid drachms; essence royale, 3 fluid drachms ; civet (pow- dered), 10 grains avoirdupois ; oil of lavender, PERFUMERY. 109 oil of cloves, oil of rhodium, of each, 5 or 6 drops; rectified spirit, 3 to 4J fluid ounces ; digest a week, and then decant the clear por- tion. Powerful, durable, and pleasant. 949. Essence of Violets ; Essence of Orris ; Factitious. Take of Florentine or- ris-root (coarsely powdered), 1 pounds avoir- dupois; rectified spirit, 1 Imperial quart; proceed by percolation or the method of dis- placement, so as to obtain 1 quart of essence ; or by digestion for two weeks, followed by powerful pressure in a tincture-press. The former is the best and most economical method. This forms the best essence of vio- lets of the wholesale druggists. It may be, but is rarely, distilled. (See No. 954.) 950. Essence of Cologne; Cologne- Essence ; Concentrated Eau de Cologne. This is prepared from the same odorous in- gredients as " Eau de Cologne," but taking 7 or 8 times the quantity, and using alcohol or the strongest rectified spirit, without which a permanent solution of the whole of them can- not be formed. Used as a condensed and convenient substitute for ordinary "Eau de Cologne " by travelers, being less bulky. It is also kept in stock by druggists and per- fumers, to enable them to prepare that article extemporaneously, by simply diluting it with 8 times its bulk of spirit of the appropriate strength. 951. Essence of Orange ; Essence of Orange-peel. Oil of orange-peel is popular- ly so called. The alcoholic essence is made from this oil like essence of almonds. (See No. 943.) 952. Essence of Pimento; Essence of Allspice. Prepared from oil of pimento, as essence of almonds. Sometimes used in compound perfumes and cosmetics, and for toothache ; but chiefly as a flavoring essence. 953. Essence of Pineapple. From pineapple oil (butyric ether), as the last. Sometimes taken on sugar, by smokers ; but chiefly used by confectioners, liqueur manu- facturers, &c. (See No. 1060.) 954. Essence of Tuberose. The flowers are placed in alternate layers with sheep's or cotton wool impregnated with the purest oil of ben or of olives, in an earthen ves- sel, closely covered, and kept for 12 hours in a water bath; the flowers are then removed and fresh ones substituted, and this is re- peated until the oil is sufficiently scented. The wool or cotton is then mixed with the purest spirit of wine, and distilled in a water bath ; or, it is first digested in a well closed vessel for several days in a warm situation, with frequent agitation. A similar plan is followed for the preparation of the essences of jasmine, violets, &c. (See No. 1349.) 955. Essence of Lemons. From oil of lemon, as essence of almonds. (See No. 943.) For this purpose the oil should have been recently expressed, and preserved from the air. A dash of essence of musk improves it as a perfume, but not as a flavoring essence. Oil of lemon is popularly called essence of lemons. 956. Concentrated Essence of Musk. Take of grain-musk (Tonquin or Chinese), 1 ounce avoirdupois ; boiling distilled water, J Imperial pint; digest them together in a close vessel, with frequent agitation, until quite cold, then add 3 pints rectified spirit (95 per cent.), i fluid ounce liquor of am- monia (.880-.885 specific gravity), and, having closely corked or stopped the vessel and securely tied it over with bladder, digest the whole for 1 or 2 months, with frequent agita- tion, in a room exposed to the sun, in sum- mer, or in an equally warm situation in win- ter. Lastly, after repose, decant the clear portion, and, if necessary, filter it. A little essence of ambergris is commonly added to the filtrate, or, when this is not done, 1 to 2 drachms of ambergris are put into the vessel before closing it, and after adding the spirit. Yery fine. The residuum is treated with fresh spirit for an inferior quality. 957. Fine Essence of Musk. Take i ounce finest grain-musk, civet and ambergris each 1 drachm, strongest essence d'ambrette, k pint. Instead of the ambergris, 1 to l| fluid ounces of essence of ambergris may be added after decantation. The quantity of civet ordered should on no account be ex- ceeded. This produces the finest quality of the Paris houses. 958. Common Essence of Musk. Take f ounce (avoidupois) grain-musk, 1 quart (Imperial) rectified spirit (95 per cent.), and 2 fluid ounces finest essence of ambergris ; digest, int ; digest for 7 or 8 days, and distill off I juart. Yery fine. Commonly sold as "Es- sence d'Ambrette." "When used alone, a very ew drops of essence of ambergris and esprit de rose improve it. 996. Fine Hungary Water. Take 2 pounds (avoirdupois) rosemary-tops (in blos- som); i pound sage (fresh); rectified spirit, 3 [mperial quarts ; water, 1 quart ; digest for 10 days, throw the whole into a still, add li jounds common salt, and draw over 6 pints. To the distillate add 1 ounce bruised Jamaica ginger, digest a few days, and either decant >r filter. The old plan of adding the ginger jefore distillation is wrong, as the aromatic principle of the root does not pass over with ;he vapor of alcohol. 997. Common Hungary Water. Take li to 2 Imperial fluid drachms pure oil of rosemary; oil of lavender (English), i fluid drachm; orange-flower water i pint; rectified spirits, li pints; mix. No. 996 is the genuine formula. This is the perfume usually sold by the perfumers. Spirit of rose- mary is now commonly sold for it by the druggists. 998. Simple Perfumed Spirits Es- prits. The simple perfumed spirits (esprits) and odoriferous tinctures are principally used in making compound eaux, esprits, eaten up with sufficient honey (liquefied by a gentle heat), syrup, or capillaire, to give ;hem the form of a smooth and moderately stiff" paste or electuary, a sufficient quantity of aromatics being usually added, as .it were, to "embalm and perfume the mouth." Honey of roses is often, and conserve of roses some- ;imes, used for those in which their odor and color are suitable. A little rectified spirit is a useful addition, as tending to preserve them, and promote their action. A little eau de Co- ogne or lavender water is often employed, with the same intention. They are usually put up in porcelain or ornamental glazed earth- mware pots, furnished with closely fitting ;overs, to preserve their contents from the air. The mixed powders should be passed through a very fine gauze-sieve, before adding the honey, and the paste should not be potted until the day following that on which it is made. (See No. 1288.) 1306. Ward's Tooth Paste. Take of prepared chalk (see No. 1292), 2 ounces : myrrh, rhatany root, and cuttle-fish bone, each, i ounce ; orris root, % ounce ; honey, 3 ounces. A very useful dentifrice in foul, spongy, and scorbutic gums, loose and rotten teeth, &c. This is also known as Zeiter's An- ti-scorbutic Dentifrice. 1307. Areca Nut Charcoal Tooth Paste. Areca nut charcoal (recent, in fine powder), beaten up with pure honey or capil- laire. Aromatics, though commonly added, do not improve its efficacy. (Sec No. 1302.) 1308. Areca Nut Tooth Paste. Take of recently burnt areca-nut charcoal, in fine powder (sec No. 1302), 5 parts ; raw or un- burnt areca nuts, 1 part; honey, liquefied by a gentle heat, and allowed to cool, sufficient to make them into a stiff paste, adding gradual- ly, for each ounce of the mixture, about 1 fluid drachm rectified spirit, holding in solu- tion oil of cassia and oil of cloves, of each 10 or 12 drops. The next day beat up the mass again, adding, if necessary, a few drops of proof spirit, or of eau de rose or orange- flower water, to give it a proper consistence, and at once put it into pots. A very excellent preparation. 1309. Vanilla Tooth Paste. Take of the finest vanilla, 1 drachm ; cloves, 5 drachm; lump sugar and cuttle-fish bone, of each ounce ; white marble-dust, 1 ounce ; mix, trit- urate them to an inpalpablc powder, and then beat them to a paste with about 2 ounces syrup of saffron. The product is much es- teemed for rapidly whitening the teethyind deodorizing the breath. 5 or G drops ot es- sence of ambergris or musk, dissolved in 1 fluid drachm of rectified spirit, are often add- ed, and improve it. TOOTH AND MOUTH WASHES, 137 1310. Peruvian Bark Tooth Paste. This paste is made by adding 1| or 2 drachms of Peruvian bark, in very fine powder, to the last receipt. It is a useful tonic in spouginess, foulness, and scurvy of the gums. (See No. 1318.) 1311. Soap Tooth Paste. Take of Cas- tile soap (air-dried, in fine powder), and cuttle- fish bone, of each 2 ounces ; honey, 4 or 5 ounces ; aromatics or perfume at will, with or without the addition of a little rectified spirit. A very excellent preparation, superior to all the other pastes for cleaning the teeth and remov- ing tartar and animalcule from them, but in- ferior in blanching and preservative qualities to areca nut charcoal paste. A pink or rose color may be given it by adding 1 drachm of finely powdered cochineal, or a fluid drachm or two of the tincture. It is commonly or- dered in books to be made with honey of roses, but the alkali of the soap spoils the color of this article. The above preparation is also known under the names of Spanish Dentifrice, and Castilian Tooth Cream. 1312. Violet Tooth Paste. Take of prepared chalk, 3 ounces ; cuttle-fish bone and white sugar (powdered), of each, 2 ounces; orris root (powdered), 1 ounce; smalts, 2 to 3 drachms ; mix with sufficient syrup of violets to make a paste. A fashionable tooth-paste, highly esteemed for its power of cleaning the teeth, and its delicate color and odor.. 1313. Odontine. There are several dentifrices advertised under this name, two or three of which have acquired a very large sale in the fashionable world. That of an eminent perfumery house appears to have the following composition : Cuttle-fish bone, Castile soap and red coral, equal parts ; color with tincture of cochineal and mix with honey sufficient to make a paste, and essential oils to aromatize, a sufficient quantity of each. 1314. Pellitier's Odontine is said to consist of pulverized sepia-bone (cuttle-fish bone), with a little butter of cacao, beaten up with honey and aromatized or scented with essential oils. 1315. Magic Tooth Paste. Take of white marble-dust, 2 ounces ; pumice-stone in impalpable powder, 1 ounces; rose-pink, ounce ; attar of roses, 7 or 8 drops ; mix as before with sufficient honey to make a paste. A favorite nostrum for rapidly cleaning and whitening the teeth, but one not adapted for free or freqi^ent use. 1316. Charcoal Tooth Paste. Take of chlorate of potassa iu very fine powder, 1 drachm ; finely powdered charcoal, 2 ounces ; honey (best raw, cold), 1A ounces; sufficient mint water to flavor ; form a paste as before. A rather unchemical mixture, esteemed, par- ticularly by smokers, for deodorising the teeth and breath. 1317. To Prepare Charcoal as a Den- tifrice. To prepare charcoal of the highest quality, as a dentifrice, requires considerable skill and care. The substance, whether wood or nut, should not be in larger than one inch pieces; the carbonization should be effected in covered crucibles, at a low red heat in no case exceeding a dull cherry red, and the whole should be cooled but of contact with the air. On opening the crucible, only those pieces should be selected for use which are properly burnt, and have a uniform dark color and a dull surface. If the heat employed be much higher than that named, the charcoal acquires a brilliant surface, and is greatly deteriorated in quality. The pieces selected should be kept in close vessels for further use or opera- tion ; any exposure to the air weakens its power of absorption. 1318. Peruvian Tooth Paste. This is formed by adding about H to 2 drachms of Peruvian bark, in very fine powder, to every ounce of the dry ingredients of any simple tooth paste, before beating them up with honey or syrup. A useful tonic for tender, spongy, foul, or scorbutic gums, and said to fix loose teeth. A little powdered myrrh is sometimes added. 1319. Quinine Tooth Paste. Take red coral, 3 ounces; cuttle-fish bone, 1 ounce; disulphate of quinine, drachm ; mix, tritu- rate to very fine powder, add honey (white), 4 ounces ; and a few drops attar of roses, or neroli, dissolved in rectified spirit, 3 fluid drachms ; and beat the whole to a paste. A little powdered myrrh (1 to 3 drachms) is sometimes added. A very fashionable and popular article. Use, &c., the same as Peru- vian paste. 1320. Opiate Tooth Paste. Honey, powdered orris, and precipitated chalk (see No. 1291), each k pound ; rose pink, 2 drachms. Rub into paste with simple syrup, and per- fume with oils of cloves, nutmeg, and rose, each ounce. 1321. Patey's Orris Tooth Paste. Take 1 pound Pans white, pound rose pink, 3 ounces orris root ; alum, 3 ounce ; oil cloves and nutmegs, each 1 drachm. TJse honey enough to form a paste. 1322. Dr. King's Tooth Paste. Pre-^ pared chalk (sec No. 129^), 1 part ; powdered Peruvian bark, 1 part ; powdered old "Windsor soap, 1 part. Mix with equal parts of the tinctures of rhatany and myrrh ; oil of check- erberry to flavor. This paste is a fine pre- paration for soft, spongy gums and loose teeth. Tooth and Mouth Wash- 6S. These are used to rinse the mouth, and particularly the teeth and gums, a few drops, more or less, of them being added to about a wine-glassful of water for the purpose. In some cases their action is promoted by the use of the tooth-brush. 1324. Eau Botot. Tincture of cedar wood, 1 pint ; tincture of myrrh and rhatany, each 4 ounces ; oil of peppermint and rose, each 10 drops. Mix. 1325. Violet Mouth Wash. Tincture of orris, essence of rose, and alcohol, each J pint ; oil of almonds, 5 drops. Mix. 1326. Mexican Toeth "Wash. Take of pulverized orris root, 1 ounce ; tonqua beans, 1 ounce ; Peruvian bark, ounce ; oak bark, i ounce; alcohol, 1 pint; water, 1 pint; let the above stand for 12 days, and filter ; color with alkanet root. An elegant tooth wash. 1327. Balm of Thousand Flowers. Take of white Castile soap, 2 ounces ; honey, 4 ounces ; water, 12 ounces ; alcohol, 4 ounces; melt the Castile soap and honey in the alcohol 138 FUMIGATING PASTILS. and water with a gentle heat. Flavor with oil of rose and wintergreen. Used as a denti frice. 1328. Wash to Harden the Gums Take & pint of Jamaica spirits, tea-spoonfu each powdered aluin and saltpetre pulverized and 1 ounce of pulverized myrrh. Mix. 1329. Cologne Tooth Wash. Eau de Cologne, 1 quart ; tincture of myrrh, 4 ounces Mix. 1330. Sozodont. Take of salts of tartar (carbonate of potassa), i ounce; honey, < ounces; alcohol, 2 ounces ; water, 10 ounces oil wintergreen and oil rose, sufficient to flavor. An elegant dentifrice. 1331. Cleveland's Tooth Wash. Tinc- tures of myrrh, Peruvian baric, aiid gentian root, each 1 fluid ounce; aqua ammonia, 1 drachm ; pure water, i pint ; tincture oj wintergreen, or any flavor to suit ; mix. This is a fine wash for the mouth, gums, and teeth. 1332. Myrrh Tooth Wash; Kirk- land's Tooth Lotion. Take of tincture oi myrrh, 1 ounce ; water, 2 ounces ; mucilage, i ounce ; agitate them well together, and again each time before use. As a wash in rotten and loose teeth, foul, spongy, and ulcerated gums, fetid breath, &c., it is often very serviceable where there is a scorbutic taint. 1333. Myrrh and Borax Mouth Wash. Rub well together in. a mortar, 1 ounce each of borax and honey ; then gradu- ally add 1 quart spirit of wine (not above proof), and add 1 ounce each of gum myrrh and red saunders wood. Macerate for 14 days, and filter. This is an excellent wash for the gums and mouth. 1334. To Cleanse the Spaces Be- tween the Teeth. Some dentists recom- mend silk floss for cleaning the spaces between teeth, but we know from experience, that No. 8 gum rings are superior. They are much more convenient in every respect. 1335. Wash to Beautify the Teeth. Dissolve 2 ounces borax in 3 pounds boiling water, and before it is cold add 1 tea-spoonful spirits of camphor, and bottle for use. A table-spoonful of this mixture, mixed with an equal quantity of tepid water, and applied daily with a soft brush, preserves and beauti- fies the teeth, extirpates all tartarous adhe- sion, arrests decay, induces a healthy action in the gums, and makes the teeth pearly white. 1336. Cachpu Aromatise. These popular pastilles for perfuming the breath arc thus made : Dissolve 3& ounces extract of liquorice in 4 ounces water, by the heat of a water bath, and add pulverized gum-arabic, \ ounce; and Bengal catechu in powder, 1 ounce. Evaporate to the consistence of an extract, and then mix in thoroughly, pow dered mastic, charcoal, cascarilla, and orris root, each 5 drachm. When the mass has been reduced to the proper consistence, it is to be removed from the fire, treated with attar of peppermint, 30 drops ; tinctures of amber- gris and musk, 5 drops ; and then poured out xipon an oiled slab, and rolled to a very thin sheet. After cooling, blotting paper is pressed upon it to absorb any adhering oil, and the surfaces ar^ moistened with water, and covered with silver leaf. When dry it is to be divided into small bits of the size of a lentil. T^umigatang Pastils; In- *- Cense Pastilles. These are small masses essentially composed of pow- dered charcoal and aromatic substances that emit fragrant fumes during combustion, with the addition of sufficient nitre or saltpetre to cause them to slowly consume away, without flame, when kindled. Their common form ia that of a small cone with a triangular or tripod base, of about \ to 1 inch in height, and about k inch diameter at the larger part. This form is most simply and conveniently given them by pressing the mass, whilst soft, into a mould of lead or porcelain. The dry ingredients should be first reduced to fine powder, and the balsams and essential oils (if any) being added, the whole should be thoroughly and perfectly incorporated, after which the mixture should be beaten to the consistence of a stiff ductile mass or dough with the liquid ordered for the purpose. When powdered gum is one of the ingredients, the mass should be beaten up with water; but otherwise mucilage must be employed. Gum-tragacanth, owing to its greater thicken- ing and binding powers, is here generally pre- ferred to gum-arabic. The charcoal of the light woods, as the linden, willow, and alder, make the best pastils ; that of the first being most esteemed for this purpose in France. The following receipts are among the best that can be made, and will serve as examples of these articles, from which the operator will be able to devise others : 1338. Dr. Paris's Fumigating Pastils. Pulverize pound benzoin, pound cascarilla, 1J- ounces myrrh, and 1-j- pounds charcoal; mix them through a sieve ; then add f ounce each of attars of nutmegs and of cloves ; dis- solve 2 ounces of nitre in sufficient mucilage of tragacanth to make the whole into a stiff paste , beat well in a mortar, make into pas- tils, and dry. 1339. Perfumers' Fumigating Pas- tils. Take of gum benzoin, 2 ounces (avoir- dupois) ; olibanum (in tears), 14 ounces; storax (in tears), 1 ounce ; cascariila and gum tragacanth, of each ounce ; nitre, 2 ounces ; charcoal, 1 pounds ; mix, and beat them up with water or rose water. 1340. Piesse's Fumigating Pastils. Dissolve f ounce nitre in 5 pint rose water ; mix this with pound willow charcoal, and dry it thoroughly in a warm place. When the nitrated charcoal is perfectly dry, pour upon it a mixture of drachm each of the attars of thyme, caraway, rose, lavender, sloves, and santal ; then stir in 6 ounces )enzoic acid (flowers of benzoin) ; mix thor- oughly through a sieve, then beat in a mortar with sufficient mucilage to bind together. Make into pastils, and dry. 1 341 . Basis for French Pastils. Take of charcoal, la pounds avoirdupois : nitre, 2 mnces ; gum-tragacantb, 1 ounce ; mix in :he dry state. It is used as a basis for the bllowing French pastils, as well as many others : 1342. Pastilles aux Fleurs d'Oranges. To each pound of Nos. 1341 or 1339, add of orange powder (genuine), 2 ounces avoirdu- >ois ; neroli, 1 Imperial fluid drachm ; and " eat up the mass with eau de flours d'oranges. FUMIGATING PASTILS. 139 1343. Pastilles a la Rose. To each pound of N"os. 1341 or 1342, add of pale rose powder, 3 ounces avoirdupois; essence of roses, 2 Imperial fluid drachms ; and beat up the mass with can de rose. 1344. Pastilles a la Vanille. To each pound of Nos. 1339 or 1341 (usually the first), add of vanilla (in fine powder), 2 ounces av- oirdupois ; cloves (in fine powder), h ounce ; essence of vanilla, i Imperial fluid ounce ; oil of cloves, oil of cassia, of each i fluid drachm ; and beat up the mass with cinnamon water. 1345. Pastils of Every Variety. The products of the preceding formulae are of ex- cellent quality. They may be varied, to please the fancy of the maker, by the omission of some of their aromatic ingredients, or by the addition or substitution of others. Cheaper articles are made by simply increasing the proportion of the charcoal and saltpetre. Good burning qualities depend greatly on the completeness of the mixture, and the moder- ate compactness of the mass. If they burn too slowly, a little more saltpetre may be added ; if too fast, the quantity of saltpetre should be slightly lessened. Musk and civet, though often ordered in books as ingredients in pastils, should be avoided, as they give out a disagreeable odor during combustion. Am- bergris is also unsuited for an ingredient in them. 1346. Incense. Storax, 2i ounces ; ben- zoin, 12 ounces ; musk 15 grains ; burnt sugar, i ounce; frankincense, 2j ounces; gum-tra- facanth, li ounces; rose-water sufficient to >rm a mass ; to be divided into small tablets. 1347. Incense. Powdered cascarilla, 2 ounces ; myrrh, storax, benzoin, burgundy pitch, each 1 ounce ; mix. Or : 1348. Fine Incense. Take of olibanum (true), 7 parts; gum benzoin, 2 parts; mix. Or : To the last, add of cascarilla 1 part. The preceding, placed on a hot iron plate, or burned m a censer, were formerly used to perfume apartments. The incense used in the rites of the Roman Catholic Church, and in the tem- ples of India, consists wholly or chiefly of olibanum. 1349. Preserved Flowers and Herbs. Flowers, herbs, and other like vegetable sub- stances, are now generally preserved, for dis- tillation, by means of common salt. The process simply consists in intimately mixing the flowers, &c., with about their weight of good dry salt, and ramming down the mixture as tightly as possible, in strong casks or jars. The casks or jars are then placed in the cellar, or other cold place, and covered with boards, on which heavy weights are put, to keep the mass tight and close. In this state they may be preserved from season to season, or even for two or three years. The flowers, &c., should be recently gathered, and free from dew or moisture ; and the salt should be quite dry, to ensure which it may be exposed for 2 or 3 hours in an oven. The above is the method now generally followed, by our man- ufacturing perfumers and wholesale druggists, for preserving fresh aromatic vegetable sub- stances for subsequent distillation. It is found that the odor of distilled waters, oils, &c. t obtained from flowers, &c., thus pre- served, is superior to that of those from either the recent or dried vegetables ; whilst the products keep better, and are quite free from the peculiar rawness found in those from fresh herbs and flowers, and which nothing but age, or redistillation, will remove. 1350. To Scent Tobacco. Fragrance may bo imparted to tobacco, by mixing with it, while slightly damp, a little cascarilla, either in very fine shreds or recently powder- ed ; or by a like addition of any of the sub- stances noticed under fumigating pastils (see No. 1339) of which the odor is appropriate to the purpose. Cigars may be perfumed by moistening them externally with concentrated tincture of cascarilla, or tincture of benzoin or storax, or a mixture of them ; or a minute portion of the powders, shred roots, or woods, may be done up with the bundle of leaves that form the centre of the cigar. The so- called anti-choleraic and disinfecting cigars are scented with camphor, cascarilla, and benzoin. 1351. Scented or Aromatic Candles. These are prepared by introducing a very small quantity of any appropriate aromatic into the material (fat, wax, or wick) of which they are made, whilst it is in the liquid state. Camphor, gum benzoin, balsam of Peru, cas- carilla, essential oils, &c., are generally the substances selected. Care must be taken not to overdo it, as then the candles will burn smoky and give little light. 1352. To Make Snuff Scents. Of the substances used, singly and combined, to scent snuff, the following may be mentioned as the principal: tonqua beans, and their oil or essence; ambergris, musk, civet, and their essences. 1353. To Scent Snuff. A sufficient quantity of the powder, essence, or oil, hav- ing been well mixed with a little snuff, the perfumed mixture is added to the whole quantity of snuff to be scented, and the mass well stirred up and turned over. It is lastly passed or rubbed through a sieve, to ensure the perfect diffusion of the scent through the whole mass. 1354. To Restore the Odor of Musk. Genuine musk frequently becomes nearly in- odorous by keeping, but its perfume is restored by exposing it to the fumes of ammonia, or by moistening it with ammonia water. 1355. Peau d'Espagne, or Spanish Skin, is merely highly-perfumed leather. Take of oil of rose, neroli, and santal, each 4 ounce; oil of lavender, verbena, bergamot, each | ounce ; oil of cloves and cinnamon, each 2 drachms ; in this dissolve 2 ounces gum benzoin. In this steep good pieces of waste leather for a day or two, and dry it over a line. Prepare a paste by rubbing in a mortar, 1 drachm of civet with 1 drachm of grain musk, and enough gum-tragacanth mucilage to give a proper consistence. The leather is cut up into pieces about 4 inches square ; two of these are pasted together with the above paste, placed between 2 pieces of paper, weighted or pressed until dry. It may then be inclosed in silk or satin. It gives off its odor for years ; is much used for perfuming paper, envelopes, &c.; for which purpose 1 or 2 pieces of the perfumed leather, kept in the drawer or desk containing the uaper, will impart to it a fine and durable perfume. 14,0 SYRUPS. SVTHpS. Syrups are solutions of sugar more or less strong according to the object for which they are used. In the preparation of syrups, if care be taken to em- ploy the best refined sugar, and either distilled water or filtered rain water, they will bo rendered much less liable to spontaneous decomposition, and will be perfectly trans- parent, without the trouble of clarification. 1357. Clarification of Sugar for Syrups. "When inferior sugar is employed, clarification is always necessary. This is best done by dissolving the sugar in the water or fruit juices cold, and then beating up a little of the cold syrup with some white of egg, and 1 or 2 ounces of cold water, until the mixture froths well ; this must be added to the syrup in the boiler, and the whole whisked up to a good froth ; heat should now be ap- plied, and the scum which forms removed from time to time with a clean skimmer. As soon as the syrup begins to slightly simmer it must be removed from the fire, and allowed to stand until it has cooled a little, when it should be again skimmed, if necessary, and then passed through a clean flannel. When vegetable infusions or solutions enter into the composition of syrups, they should be ren- dered perfectly transparent, by filtration or clarification, before being added to the sugar. 1358. Filters for Syrups. Syrups are usually filtered, on the large scale, by passing them through creased bag filters; on the small scale, conical flannel bags are usually adopted. Thick syrups filter with difficulty, hence it is a good plan to dilute them before filtering, and' afterwards evaporate them to the required consistency. For small quantities clarification involves less trouble than filtra- tion. (See No. 1357.) 1359. To make a Take a square piece of flannel or Canton flan- nel, fold it diagonally, and sew two of the corresponding edges to- gether with an over-lap seam, leaving the other two edges open ; then fold the open edge over, sufficiently to make the opening level. (See Fig. 1.) This fold gives a considerable degree of stiffness to the open end, preventing the filter in some measure from collapsing. Professor Parrish, in his book on Practical Pharmacy, recommends the use of a conical wire frame (see Fig. 2) to support the fil- ter. The frame is made to fit into the top of a suita- ble tin bucket, being sup- ported by a riin or flange around the top of the frame, projecting sufii- m 2 ciently to rest on the edge of the bucket. The filter must fit the frame. 1360. Quantity of Sugar Used in Making Syrups. The proper quantity o sugar for syrups will, in general, be found t( be"2 pounds avoirdupois to every pint of wa Conical Filter. er or thin aqueous fluid. These proportions illow for the water that is lost by evaporation Luring the process, and are those best calcu- ated to produce a syrup of the proper consist- ence, and possessing good keeping qualities. ?hey closely correspond to those recomrnend- 5(1 by Guibourt for the production of a perfect yrup, which, he says, consists of 30 parts ,ugar to 10 parts water. To make highly rausparent syrups the sugar should be m a -.ingle lump, and by preference taken from the Bottom or broad end of the loaf; as, when ;aken from the smaller end, or if it be pow- lered or bruised, the syrup will be more or ess cloudy. 1361. Amount of Heat to be Em- ployed in Making Syrups. In the prep- aration of syrups it is of great importance to employ as little heat as possible, as a solution of sugar, even when kept at the temperature >f boiling water, undergoes slow decomposi- ion. The best plan is to pour the water cold) over the sugar, and to allow the two io lie together for a few hours, in a covered vessel, occasionally stirring, and then to ap- }ly a gentle heat, preferably that of steam or i water-bath, to finish the solution. Some persons (falsely) deem a syrup ill prepared mless it has been allowed to boil well ; but if this method be adopted, the ebullition should je only of the gentlest kind (simmering), and ;hould bo checked after the lapse of one or ,wo minutes. When it is necessary to thicken j, syrup by boiling, a few fragments of glass should bo introduced, in order to lower the boiling point. In boiling syrups, if they ap- pear likely to boil over, a little oil, or rubbing the edge of the pan with soap, will prevent it. Syrups arc judged by the manufacturer to bo sufficiently boiled, when some taken up in a spoon pours out like oil ; or, a drop cooled on the thumb nail gives a proper thread when touched. (Sec No. 1368.) When a thin skin appears on blowing upon the syrup, it is judged to be completely saturated. These rude tests often lead to errors, which might be easily prevented by employing the proper proportions, or determining the specific gravity. 1362. Table of Specific Gravities of Syrups. The degrees of Baume here given are those of his heavy saccharometer. Fig. 1. Sugar in 100 parts. Specific Gravity. Degrees Baume. 1.000 ' 5 1.020 3 10 1.040 6 15 1.062 8 20 1.081 11 25 . 1.104 13.5 30 1.128 16.3 35 1.152 19 40 1.177 21.6 45 1.204 24.5 50 1.230 27 55 1.257 29.5 60 1.284 32 67 1.321 35 The latter density is about the syrupus of the pharmacopoeias; that of the IT. S. Ph. has a sp. grav. 1.317 ; that of the British Ph. is 1.330. SYRUPS. 1363. To Determine the Density of Syrup. A fluid ounce of saturated syrup weighs 577 grains; a gallon weighs 13| pounds avoirdupois; its specific gravity is 1.319 to 1.321, or 35 Baume; its boiling point is 221 Pah., and its density at the tempera- ture of 212 is 1.260. to 1.261, or 30 Baume. The syrups prepared with the juices of fruits mark about 2 or 3 more on Baum6's scale than the other syrups. (Coolcy.) According to Ure, the decimal part of the number denot- ing the specific gravity of a syrup, multiplied by 26, gives the number of pounds of sugar it contains per gallon, very nearly. 1364. To Preserve Syrups. The pre- servation of syrups, as well as of all saccharine solutions, is best promoted by keeping them in a moderately cool, but not a very cold place. Let syrups be kept in vessels well closed, and in a situation where the temperature never rises above 55 Pah. They are better kept in small than in large bottles, as the longer a bottle lasts, the more frequently it will be opened, and, consequently, the more it will be exposed to the air. By bottling syrups whilst boiling hot, and immediately corking down and tying the bottles over with blad- der, perfectly air-tight, they may be preserved, even at a summer heat, for years, without fermenting or losing their transparency. 1365. To Prevent Syrup from Candy- ing. The candying or crystallization of syrup, unless it be over-saturated with sugar, may bo prevented by the addition of a little acetic or citric acid (2 or 3 drachms per gal- lon) ; confectioners add a little cream of tartar to the sugar, to prevent granulation. 1366. To Prevent Syrup from Fer- menting. The fermentation of syrups may be effectually prevented by the addition of a little sulphite of potassa or of lime. A cele- brated Prench chemist recommends the addi- tion of about 3 to 4 per cent, sugar of rnilk, with the same intention. Fermenting syrups may be immediately restored by exposing the vessel containing them to the temperature of boiling water. The addition of a little spirit is also good. 1367. To Bleach Syrup. Syrups may be decolored by agitation with, or filtration through, animal charcoal. 1368. Degrees of Boiling Sugar. In preparing 'sugar for candies, sulphide of carbon is poured over them. After leaving the flowers in contact for 15 minutes the liquid is drawn off' and a fresh supply added and drawn off' in a similar manner. This completely dissolves all the essential oil of the flowers, leaving them quite scentless. The liquid is next dis- tilled, and the ether or sulphide of carbon, be- ing volatile at a much lower temperature than the fragrant principle, is drawn over alone, and leaves a residue containing all the per- fume of the flower. This residue, more or less solid, is exposed to the heat of the sun until it loses the unpleasant smell of the solvent used. No degree of natural heat is capable of altering the perfume or turning it rancid. The product has a much finer odor than essential oil prepared by any other system. 1468. Cognac Oil. Oil of cognac is prepared by dissolving the fusel oil of brandy marc in strong rectified spirit, and then adding a sufficient quantity of concentrated sulphuric acid to form a sulphate ; alcohol and excess of acid are removed by washing the newly formed compound with water. To 100 pounds marc add \ pound sulphuric acid ; the oil is generally formed towards the end of the dis- tillation, and is found floating in blackish drops on the surface of the distillate. According to a distinguished French chemist, this oil is a compound of potato oil and oenanthic ether. 1469. Oil of Apple. Mix cautiously 1 part fusel oil, 3 parts sulphuric acid, and 2 parts water. Dissolve 2 parts bichromate of potash in 4| parts water, introduce this- into a large tubulated retort, and gradually add the former liquid, so that the boiling continues very slowly. The distillate, which is principally valerianic acid, is saturated with carbonate of soda, and evaporated to dryness. Take of the valerianate of soda, thus formed, 1 parts ; fusel oil, 1 part ; sulphuric acid, 1 part ; mix cautiously, heat by a water-bath, and mix with water; the impure valeriauate of amy- loxide will separate. It is washed several times with water, then with a solution of car- bonate of soda, and finally with water. This is dissolved in from G to 8 parts of water. 1470. Oil of Jargonelle Pear. This is made from the heavy fusel oil which comes over last in distillation. To purify the fusel oil, wash it with soda and water, and distill between 254 and 284 Fahr. Of this take 1 pound; glacial acetic acid, 1 pound; sulphuric acid, i pound. Digest for sonic hours at 254. The ether separates upon the addition of wa- ter, and is purified by washing with soda and water. Mixed with Vff part acetic ether, and 7 parts of deodorized alcohol, it gives the es- sence of pears. 1471. Oil of duince Pelargonic Ether is made from oil of rue by treating it with double its volume of dilute nitric acid, heating the mixture until it begins to boil. After some time two layers are seen. The lower one is separated with a pipette, and freed from nitric acid by evaporation in a chloride of zinc bath; it is then filtered, ESSENTIAL OILS. 151 mixed with deodorized alcohol, and digested at a gentle hfeat until the fruity odor is noticed. This ether seems identical with the ethereal oil of wine, which gives the bouquet. It is sometimes sold as oil of cognac. 1472. To Restore tlie Fragrance of Oil of Lemon. There are several oils that, by absorption of oxygen from the air, will be- come camphorated, grow turbid, deposit a residue, generally called stearopten, and lose more or less of their flavor, instead of which they acquire the odor of turpentine. Those oils that are free from oxygen are chiefly sub- ject to these changes, and it -is therefore necessary to keep them in full bottles, well stoppered, and in a cool place. "When they have deteriorated in the way indicated, they may be improved, but can never be restored to their original quality. Many means have been proposed for this purpose, but the one now generally employed in France is to shake the oil with warm water several times, letting it settle, and drawing it off by means of a syphon; it may lastly be filtered either through paper or linen. 1473. To Keep Oil of Lemon Fra- grant. To every pound of oil, 1 ounce alco- hol is to be added and well mixed ; then 1 ounce water is put with it, which again with- draws the alcohol from the oil, and collects at the bottom of the bottle as dilute alcohol, where it should be permitted to remain until the oil has been used, with, perhaps, an occa- sional shake-up when the bottle has been opened. Oil of lemon treated in this manner has been kept fresh and fragrant for over a year. Oil of orange may be treated in the same manner with excellent effect. 1474. To Purify Essential Oils that have Deteriorated from Age. The method most commonly pursued is by redistillation, mixing them first with water, and sometimes with alkali. There are, however, other pro- cesses that have been recommended, which are believed to be equally as efficacious, and at the same time more simple. M. Curieux proposes to submit them to the action of a solution of borax with animal black. The solution of borax is mixed with the animal charcoal to form a thin consistency ; the oil is then added and agitated for a quarter of an hour. At the end of that time the borax mixture is found adhering to the sides of the bottle, while the oil flows limpid. The oil of lavender, neroli, and peppermint, M. Curieux had restored or purified in this manner. Mr. Charles Bullock, of Philadelphia, has found that permanganate of potash is admirably adapted to the purpose of the restoration of resinified essential oils. A large can of oil of lemon having become unsaleable, he agitated a solution of the potash with the oil for a length of time, then decanted, mixed with fresh water, and warmed gently, till the oil floated perfectly clear on the surface. The solution of the permanganate was in the pro- portion of 1 ounce of the salt to 8 ounces of water. This quantity was enough for 4 pounds of the oil. 1475. To Detect the Presence of Fatty Oil and Resins in Essential Oils. The presence of fatty oil, resin, or spermaceti, may be readily detected by placing a single drop of the suspected oil on a piece of white paper, and exposing it for a short time to heat. If the oil under examination be pure, it will entirely evaporate ; but if it be adul- terated with one of these substances, a greasy or translucent spot will be left on the paper. These substances also remain undissolved when the oil is agitated with three or four times its volume of strong rectified spirit. 1476. To Detect the Presence of Al- cohol in Essential Oils. The presence of alcohol or rectified spirit may be detected by agitation with the oil a few small fragments of dried chloride of calcium. These will re- main unaltered if the oil be pure, but will dissolve in one containing alcohol, and the re- sulting solution will form a distinct stratum at the bottom of the vessel. The milkiness and loss of volume, when such an oil is agi- tated with a little water, is another test of the presence of spirit. A more delicate test of the presence of alcohol in an essential oil than the preceding, is effected by potassium. Place 12 drops of the oil on a perfectly dry watch-glass, and put a piece of potassium, the size of an ordinary pin's head, in the mid- dle of it. If the potassium remains unchanged for 12 or 15 minutes, no alcohol is present; bnt if it disappears after 5 minutes, the oil contains at least 4 per cent, of alcohol ; if it disappears in less than 1 minute, it proves the presence of not less than 25 per cent, of alco- hol. This species of adulteration is very com- mon. It is a very general practice of the druggists to add strong rectified spirit to their essential oils, to render them transparent, especially in cold weather. Oil of cassia and oil of cinnamon are nearly always so treated by them. 1477. To Detect the Admixture of one Essential Oil with Another. The admixture of an inferior essential oil with an- other more costly, is readily detected by a connoisseur or expert, by placing a drop or two on a piece of clean blotting-paper, shak- ing it in the air, and smelling it occasionally. The difference of the odor at the beginning and towards the end of the evaporation will show the adulteration, especially if the adul- terant be oil of turpentine. This last may also be detected by remaining undissolved when the oil is agitated with about thrice its volume of strong rectified spirit. Highly rectified oil of turpentine is very largely used to adulter- ate the stronger scented essential oils. For- eign oil of lavender and oil of peppermint, for example, are usually compounds of 1 ounce of the genuine oil with 9 ounces of oil of turpentine. Even American and English oil of peppermint are adulterated with J part rec- tified spirit, besides a considerable quantity of oil of spearmint, and often turpentine. 1478. To Detect the Adulteration of a Heavy Oil with a Light One. The adulteration of a heavy oil with a light one may be detected by agitating the suppected sample with water, when, in general, the two will separate and form distinct layers. 1479. To Test the Purity of Essen- tial Oil of Almonds. Essential oil of almonds is very generally adulterated with cheaper oils, particularly nitrobenzole (arti- ficial oil of bitter almonds), and in nearly every case with alcohol or rectified spirit. The pure oil, when mixed with oil of vitriol, FIXED OILS AND FATS. turns of a clear crimson-red color, without visible decomposition: mixed with alcoholic solution of poiassa, crystals are eliminated : iodine dissolves only partially and slowly in it, without further visible results: cliromate of potassa does not affect it: nitric acid of the specific gravity 1.42 causes no immediate reaction, but crystals of benzoic acid begin to form in 3 or 4 days ; if only 7 or 8 per cent. of alcohol be present, violent effervescence speedily commences, and colored nitrous fumes are evolved. Nitric acid of specific gravity 1.5 produces the same effects in a marked degree, even when the smallest quan- tity only of alcohol is present. The specific gravity of the pure oil, when recent, is never less than 1.052; and when old, never greater than 1.081 ; that of trade averages about 1.075. Nitrobenzole has the specific gravity 1.209, and its boiling point is 415 Fahr., or fully 100 higher than that of es- sential oil of almonds. 1480. To Test the Purity of Oil of Bergamot. Oil of bergamot is very fre- quently adulterated with rectified spirit, or with the oil of lemon, orange peel, and tur- pentine. These may be detected in the way previously noticed. (See JVo. 1476, aper, if placed in a larder, will effectually [rive away insects, and make the meat keep everal days longer than otherwise. By all he modes in which creosote has hitherto >een employed in preserving meat, it has ac- uired a disagreeable taste and smell. This may be obviated by placing a small plate con- aining a little creosote immediately under ach piece of meat as it hangs in the larder, 170 SOLUTIONS FOB ANATOMICAL PREPARATIONS. and covering them both over with a cloth. A small quantity added to brine or vinegar if commonly employed to impart a smoky flavor to meat and fish, and its solution in acetic acic is used to give the flavor of Scotch whiskey to plain spirit. The preservative effect o: smoke-drying is partially due to creosote which gives to the meat its peculiar smoky taste, and partly to desiccation. 1647. To Test Creosote. A large pro- portion of ordinary creosote is simply car- bolic acid; but the pure creosote, which constitutes the peculiar smell of smoke, is quite a different substance, and may be dis- tinguished from the false by its behavior with collodion. A mixture of this latter with carbolic acid gives a gelatinous precipitate while with true creosote the collodion remains clear. Dr. Hager gives another test : To a weak solution of iron, a few drops of ammonia are added, until the precipitate which origi- nally forms is dissolved. Carbolic acid com- municates a blue or violet tinge to the solu- tion, while genuine creosote gives a green color, afterward turning to brown. 1648. Charcoal as an Antiseptic. It is well known that charcoal possesses extra- ordinary powers in checking decomposition, as well as in deodorizing animal substances which have already begun to undergo change. Meat, either before or after it is cooked, may be preserved for a considerable time, even in warm weather, by being placed in the centre of a clean earthenware vessel, and closely sur- rounded with pieces of common charcoal. To prevent the flies from "blowing" the meat, the vessel ought to be covered with wire- gauze. Putrid water is immediately deprived of its bad smell by charcoal. When meat, fish, to 10 40 50 to 4 46* J 50 to 3... 53* I 60 to 7 57' | 60 to 12 62* | 50 toO 60 | 60 to 3 47 50 to 10 60* 60 to 14 64* 1688. Table of Freezing Mixtures with Snow. Fahr ihtlt Degrees Mixtures. Thermometer of Cold Sinks from Produced Snow 3 parts. ) ~ v , . Diluted Sulphuric Acid, 2 " J *" Snow 8 Muriatic Acid 5 Snow 7 Dilute Nitric Acid 4 Snow 4 Muriate of Lime 5 Snow 2 Crys'd Muriate of Lime, 3 Snow 3 Potash 4 32 to 27. 32 to 30. 32" to 40. \ 32 to 60 82* | 32 to 51 83 1 689. Freezing Mixtures with Pound- ed Ice or Snow. The following mixtures reduce the temperature down to a certain degree of cold, irrespective of the tempera- ture of the materials at mixing. Fahr. Ther- Snow, or Pounded Ice 2 parts. ] Muriate of Soda 1 " ] Snow, or Pounded Ice 6 Muriate of Soda 2 Muriate of Ammonia. 1 Snow, or Pounded Ice, 24 Muriate of Soda 10 Muriate of Ammonia 6 Nitrate of Potash 5 Snow, or Pounded Ice 12 Muriate of Soda 6 Nitrate of Ammonia 5 Snow, or Pounded Ice 2 Common Table Salt, or Kock Salt. . 1 1690. Metallic Freezing Mixture. An .interesting experiment may be made by melting together 59 parts tin, 103 i lead, and 183 bismuth. If this be finely rasped or powdered, and introduced into 108 parts, by weight, of quicksilver, a thermometer im- mersed in the mixture will sink to nearly 3 Fahr. ; and water placed in a thin test-tube, + ., lo to 12 to 25* t DISINFECTANTS. 173 and allowed to remain for a few minutes in this bath, will be completely frozen. 1691. How to Keep Ice in Summer. No refrigerator or ice-box will prevent, or even retard the melting of the ice, which does noi combine the following conditions: It mus have double sides, bottom, and lid, with the space between the two casings filled with some non-conducting substance, in order to exclude the external temperature ; and the inner lid or cover should be practically, if noi hermetically, air-tight, in furtherance of the same result. If external air enters, it wil bring its own temperature with it. There should be also a drainage-pipe at the bottom to carry off, instantaneously, every drop 01 water formed by the melting of the ice, and this pipe should either be fitted with a trap or curved in such a manner as to prevent the cold air from escaping. It is even more indis- pensable to carry off every drop of the water than it is to exclude the air a view not generally entertained by consumers of the article, but which, according to experiments made, seems to be fully demonstrated. Thus, on exposing a piece of ice weighing, say 25 pounds, to the air, at a temperature of 75, but so placed that it is perfectly drained, it will be found to have scarcely disappeared at the end of 24 hours. Wrap the same piece in 3 or 4 thicknesses of blanket or flannel, and place it in a small tub exposed to the same tempera- ture, and as the water filters through the blanket, the ice will stand in its own water, and will be all dissolved in 5 or 6 hours. Wrap the same piece of ice carefully in a blanket, and place it on a grating, or on four crossed sticks, so that no water can accumulate under- neath, and at the end of 3 or even 4 days it will not have entirely melted. Disinfectants are substances which absorb, neutralize or destroy putrescent effluvia and miasmata, and thus remove the causes of infection. The princi- pal disinfectants are chlorine, the chlorides (hypochlorites) of lime and soda, chloride of zinc, charcoal, carbolic acid, the fumes of nitric, nitrous, and sulphurous acids, and ven- tilation. The clothing, bedding, &c., of pa- tients laboring under contagious diseases, may be effectually disinfected by exposing to a temperature of about that of boiling water. Neither the texture nor color of textile fabrics is injured evert by a heat of 250 Fahr. It is a practice at some of the poorhouses to bake the clothes of the paupers who have the itch, or are infested with vermin. Quicklime rapidly absorbs carbonic acid, sulphuretted hydrogen, and several other noxious gases, and is therefore commonly used as a wash for the walls of buildings. Acetic acid, camphor, fragrant pastils, cascarilla, and other similar substances, are frequently burnt or volatilized by heat, for the purpose of disguising un- pleasant odors. The chlorides as well as the sulphates of iron and lime have the property of rapidly destroying noxious . effluvia. A quantity of either of these sulphates thrown into a cesspool, for instance, will in a few hours remove the fetid smell. 1693. Metropolitan Disinfecting Fluid. The Board of Health of the city of New York have recommended a disinfecting fluid composed of sesquichloride of iron, chloride of manganese, chlorine, and car- bolic acid. The sesquichloride of iron has been found by experiment to deodorize more effectually than chloride of lime, sulphate of zinc, or other disinfectants. It is therefore recommended as an important constituent of any disinfectant. Sesquichloride of iron is prepared by dissolving the hydrated sesquiox- ide of iron in muriatic acid ; to this is added 10 per cent, of carbolic acid. This forms the fluid in a concentrated form, and is largely diluted with water at the time of using. All night scavengers are compelled by the Board of Health of New York to use it. Its effects are compound. The iron checks fermenta- tion, and the chlorine acts as an oxidizing agent. Its carbolic acid also aids in arresting decomposition and fermentation, and the whole combination, therefore, by its chemical action, decomposes the sulphuretted hy- drogen. 1694. To Disinfect Stables and Slaughter-Houses. Dr. Letherby, Health officer of the city of London, says in a recent report on the subject, that the best disinfect- ant for stables and slaughter-houses is a mixed chloride and hypochlprite of zinc, and it has the advantage of mixing freely with the liquid matters of the slaughter-house, and not tainting the meat with any unpleasant odors ; and it is also applicable to the disin- fection of houses in place of chloride of lime, which it much resembles in its chemical na- ture and mode of action. 1695. Burnett's Disinfecting Fluid. A solution of chloride of zinc, made by dis- solving zinc in commercial muriatic acid to saturation, and known as Sir William Bur- nett's Disinfecting Fluid, has been found most useful as a purifying agent, and in re- moving and destroying contagion. In puri- fying sick rooms or crowded places the solu- tion should be moistened by means of a piece of flannel cloth, about 3 or 4 feet square, attached to a long rod and waved through the air for 10 minutes at a time; in addition to which the floor should be mopped or sprinkled over with the same dilute solution, if neces- sary, several times a day, and a small quantity put into the close-stools and bed-pans. The water-closets should also be cleansed with it, and 2 gallons occasionally thrown down each. When floors and woodwork are washed with ;he solution, the use of soap or soda should avoided immediately before or after its ap- plication; and whitewashing should not be applied to any part recently washed or sprinkled with it. 1696. To Purify a Sick Chamber. The nitrous acid vapor, so invaluable as a dis- infectant in contagious fevers, is obtained by decomposing nitre by means of heated sulphur- "c acid, in the following manner : Put \ ounce sulphuric acid in a crucible glass or china cup and warm it over a lamp or in heated sand, adding to it from time to time a little nitre. Several of these vessels must be placed in the sick chamber and in the neighboring apart- * ments and passages, at a distance of 20 feet or more from each other, according to the 174, DISINFECTANTS. height of the ceiling and the virulence of the j and makes it drinkahle. A tea-spoonful to a contagion. As an evidence of the value of I hogshead is generally enough, but if added this method of disinfection it may be men- tioned that Dr. Carmichael Smyth, of London, by whom it was originally practiced, received from Parliament a premium of 5,000 for his discovery. 1697. Hyponitrous Acid as a Disin- fectant. A special commission was ap- pointed by the Academy of Sciences at Paris, to study the different means of disinfecting those localities which, during the siege, had been appropriated to persons afflicted with contagious diseases. Its report furnishes some useful guides to the selection and the application of disinfectants. It was agreed that the very first place among destructive agents which can attack and destroy infec- tious germs, should be assigned to hyponi- trous acid. Great precaution should be exer- cised, however, by those employing the very dangerous nitrous vapors. 1698. Carbolic Acid as ant. The French 1697) also reported that carbolic acid is much more easily applied, is less dangerous and ex- pensive than hyponitrous acid, and seems to a Disinfect- commission (see No. offer guarantees of quite equal founded on experimental evidence. efficacy, It is best employed by mixing with sand or sawdust in the proportion of 1 part by weight of acid, and 3 parts of the inert material. The mix- ture is placed in earthen pots. Carbolic acid, diluted with 25 to 30 times its weight of water, has been found useful in sprinkling daily the floors and the bedding of sick cham- bers. It has been stated by M. Devergie, that water containing only the 4 ^ part of its weight of carbolic acid sufficed for the disinfection of a dead-house during the hot- test weather, when it contained from 6 to 7 bodies. 1699. Collins' Disinfecting Powder. Mix 2 parts dry chloride of lime with 1 of burnt alum. To be set in shallow dishes in rooms, &c., with or without the addition of Ellerman's Deodorizing Fluid. water. 1700. This consists chiefly of perchlorides and chlor- ides of iron and manganese. In a report ad- dressed to the Metropolitan Board of "Works of London in 1859, Drs. Hoffman and Prank- land stated that the perchloride of iron was the cheapest and most efficient deodorizer that could be applied to sewage; gallon deodor- ized 7500 gallons. 1 bushel lime, or 3 pounds chloride of lime, would do the same. 1701. Condy's Solution. A saturated solution of permanganate of potassa is one of the most efficient and elegant of all disin- fectants. A tea- spoonful in a soup-plate of water, exposed in a room, quickly removes any offensive smell; when the pink color disappears more must be added. It has been used to remove the smell of bilge- water and guano from ships. A word as to economy : One ounce of the crystallized salt costs about as much as a pound of the crude, which is just as good for deodorizing purposes. The crude gives a greenish solution, which, even while cold, but more rapidly and completely upon boiling, passes into the deep red so characteristic of the permanganate, and is fit for use. It speedily cleanses foul water until the water acquires a permanent faint tinge, we are certain that injurious organic matter has been destroyed. Then, as Condy suggests, if a piece of clean stick be put into the liquid, or if a little tea or coffee be added, the pink color will disappear, and the water will be fit for use. The very small amount of potassa remaining in the solution could not possibly do any harm, as it would not amount to ]^ part of a grain to the gallon. 1702. Siret's Compound. Sulphate of iron, 20 pounds; sulphate of zinc, 3 pounds; wood or peat charcoal, 1 pound ; sulphate of lime, 26 pounds ; mix and form into balls. To be placed in cesspools, &c., to deodorize them. M. Siret has subsequently modified this compound thus: Sulphate of iron, 100 parts; sulphate of zinc, 50; tan or oak-bark powder, 40 ; tar, 5 ; and oil, 5 parts. 1703. Ledoyen's Solution. This is a solution of nitrate of lead, and contains about 20 ounces of the salt in a gallon. The specific gravity should be 1.40." A similar compound may be made by mixing 13 ounces litharge with 6 pints water, and adding 12 ounces nitric acid at 1.38 specific gravity (or 8 ounces at 1.50) and digesting at a gen- tle heat till the solution is complete. 1704. Chloride of Lime as a Disin- fectant. It is a great purifier. 1 pound requires 3 gallons of water; use the clear solution. To purify rooms, sprinkle on the floor, and, if needful, on the bed-linen. In- fected clothes should be dipped in it and wrung out, just before they are washed. It purifies night commodes, water-closets, &c. It may also be used in its pure state. For butcher stalls, fish markets, slaughter houses, sinks, and wherever there are offensive putrid gases, sprinkle it about, and in a few days the smell will pass away. If a cat, rat, or mouse, dies about the house, and sends forth an offen- sive gas, place some chloride of lime in an open vessel near the place where the nuisance is, and it will soon purify the atmosphere. The presence of chloride of lime in a room causes iron or steel to rust rapidly. Articles of that material should therefore be removed during the use of this disinfectant. 1705. Precautions to be Observed Before Entering a Sick Boom, particu- larly where there is Fever. Never enter fasting; if it is inconvenient to take refreshment of the ordinary kind, ob- tain a glass of wine and a cracker. Do not stand between the patient and the door, if possible. Avoid sitting on or touch- ing the bed-clothes as much as possible, and do not inhale the patient's breath. The hands should always be washed in clean water, if the patient has fever, before leaving the room to touch other people or things. After visiting a fever patient, rs. There is something peculiar, either in ,he smell or touch of borax, which is certain death to them. They will flee in terror from t, and never appear again where it has once )een placed. It has also the great advantage of being perfectly harmless to human beings ; lence there is no danger from poisoning. The )orax should be pulverized and sprinkled around the infested places. 1902. To Kill Cockroaches and Cro- x>n Bugs. Boil 1 ounce poke-root in 1 pint water until the strength is extracted; mix the decoction with molasses and spread it in jlates in the kitchen or other apartments which are infested by these insects. Paris *reen sprinkled around the apartments will also exterminate them ; but should be used with caution, as it is very poisonous. 1903. To Destroy Bed-bugs. Rub the bedsteads in the joints with equal parts of spirits of turpentine and kerosene oil, and the racks of the surbase in rooms where there are many. Filling up all the cracks with hard soap is an excellent remedy. March and April are the months when bedsteads should be examined to kill all the eggs. 1904. To Destroy Bed-bugs in Paper- ed Rooms. Clean the paint of the room thoroughly, and set in the centre of the room a dish containing 4 ounces of brimstone. Light it and close the room as tight as possi- ble, stopping the keyhole of the door with pa- per, to keep the fumes of the brimstone in the room. Let it remain for 3 or 4 hours, then . open the windows and air thoroughly. The brimstone will be found to have also bleached the paint if it was a yellowish white. 1905. Bed-bug Poison. Mix together 2 ounces camphor, 4 ounces spirits of turpen- tine, 1 ounce corrosive sublimate, and 1 pint alcohol. 1906. To Kill Bed-bugs. Benzine or gasoline will kill these pests as fast as they can be reached. By using a spring-bottom oiler, the fluid may be forced into cracks and crevices more thoroughly than by any other means. As this fluid is highly inflammable, contact with fire must be avoided. The room should be well aired and ventilated afterwards, until the gas passes away. (Sec No. 346. ) 1907. To Exterminate Bed-bugs. "Wash the article infested with a weak solu- tion of chloride of zinc. This is an effectual banisher of these pests. 1908. Benzine as an Insect Destroyer. A mixture of 10 parts benzine, 5 parts soap, and 85 parts water, has been very successful- ly used to destroy the parasites which infest dogs. It has also been used with good results in veterinary practice, as an application in certain diseases of the skin ; and thus diluted, is found to answer better than when used pure. PREPARED PAPER. 193 1909. To Disperse Black Ants. A few leaves of green wormwood, scattered among the haunts of these troublesome in- sects, is said to be effectual in dislodging them. (See No. 1848.) 1910. To Exterminate Bed Ants. Grease a plate with lard, and set it where these insects abound. They prefer lard to any- thing else, and will forsake sugar for it. Place a few sticks around the plate for the ants to climb up on. Occasionally turn the plate bot- tom up over the fire, and the ants will fall in with the melting lard. Reset the plate, and in a short time you will catch them all. Pow- dered borax sprinkled around the infested places will exterminate both red and black ants. (See No. 1901.) 1911. To Kill Flies. Beat up the yolk of an egg with a table-spoonful each of mo- lasses and black pepper finely ground ; set it about in shallow plates and the flies will be rapidly killed. A sweetened infusion of quassia will answer the same purpose. Dis- solve 1 drachm extract of quassia m a gill of water, mix with gill molasses and pour the mixture on a flat dish where the flies have access. The quassia acts on them like a nar- cotic. 1912. Fly Poison. Boil i ounce small chips of quassia in 1 pint water ; add 4 ounces molasses. Flies drink this with avidity, and are soon destroyed by it. 1913. To Banish Fleas. The oil of pennyroyal will certainly drive them off; but a cheaper method, where the herb flourishes, is to dip dogs and cats into a decoction of it once a week. Mow the herb and scatter it in the beds of the pigs once a mouth. "Where the herb cannot be got, the oil may be pro- cured. In this case, saturate strings with it and tie them around the necks of dogs and cats, pour a little on the back and about the ears of hogs, which you can do while they are feeding, without touching them. By repeat- ing these applications every 12 or 15 days, the fleas will leave the animals. Strings saturated with the oil of pennyroyal, and tied around the neck and tail of horses, will drive off lice ; the strings should be saturated once a day. 1914. To Exterminate Fleas. Sprinkle chamomile flowers in the beds, and the fleas will leave. 1915. An Excellent Flea Trap. If you should happen to have the consciousness of having a flea about your person, you have but to introduce, before getting into bed, a piece of new flannel between the sheets, and you may depend on finding yourself forsaken for tiie flannel. 1916. To Prevent the Attacks of Gnats. The best preventive against gnats, as well as the best cure for their stings, is camphor. 1917. To Clear a Room of Mosqui- toes. Take of gum camphor a piece about the size of an egg, and evaporate it by placing it in a tin vessel, and holding it over a lamp or candle, taking care that it does not ignite. The smoke will soon fill the room, and expel the mosquitoes. 1918. To Keep Away Mosquitoes. Dip a piece of sponge or flannel in camphor- ated spirits, and make it fast to the top of the bedstead. A decoction of pennyroyal, or some of the bruised leaves, rubbed on the exposed parts, will effectually keep off those troublesome insects. 1919. To Destroy Vermin in Child- ren's Heads. Take 1 ounce each vinegar and stavesacre, i ounce each honey and sul- phur, and 2 ounces sweet oil. Make into a liniment, and rub the head with it. Insects are immediately suffocated by benzine. Those sometimes found in the heads of human be- ings are destroyed by it at once, without any inconvenient result being perceived. It has been employed very successfully in banish- ing the insects which infest domestic animals, etc. (See No. 1906.) The use of larkspur seed for the destruction of the insects infest- ing the human head is a time-honored appli- cation among country people beds of the plant being cultivated frequently for the ex- press purpose of furnishing material for the decoction. The efficiency of this remedy seems to depend on the presence of the alka- loid called delphine, which appears to be a poison especially fatal to insects. 1920. To Destroy Body Vermin. Apply stavesacre ointment or red precipitate. 1921. To Clean Canary Birds. These pretty things are often covered with lice, and may be effectually relieved of them by placing a clean white cloth over their cage at night. In the morning it will be covered with small red spots, so small as hardly to be seen, except by the aid of a glass ; these are the lice, a source of great annoyance to the birds. 1922. Lice on Poultry. If infested with lice, damp the skin under the feathers with water, then sprinkle a little sulphur on the skin. If the bird be covered with insects or parasites, they will all disappear in the course of 12 hours. 1923. Tp Drive Flies from Stables. Scatter chloride of lime on a board in a stable, to remove all kinds of flies, but more especial- ly biting flies. Sprinkling beds of vegetables with even a weak solution, effectually pre- serves them from caterpillars, slugs, y sift- ing through a fine wire serve. 204, PYEOTECHNY. 2066. Colored Fires for Illuminations. Pack the compounds lightly into small cups or pans. 2067. Cqlored Fires for Stars, &c. The compounds may be put into small pill- boxes, with a little priming and a quick match (see No. 2060) attached to each. If kept, they should be put where no damage can hap- pen in case of their catching fire. 2068. To Make Colored Fires. The following receipts for the preparation of these effective aids in pyrotechnic and dramatic display, are among the very best that are known. These fires have in some theatres been assisted, if not superseded, by the calcium light ; color being communicated by passing the rays of light through colored glass. The unpleasant smell of colored fires is avoided, and the effects can be prolonged at pleasure, instead of lasting merely a few moments. 2069. Blue Fire. Mix 2 parts realgar (red arsenic), 3 parts charcoal, 5 parts chlorate of potassa, 13 parts sulphur, and 77 parts nitrate of baryta. 2070. Bird's Blue Fire. 1 part char- coal, 1 part orpiment (yellow sulphuret of arsenic), 16 parts black sulphuret of antimo- ny, 48 parts nitre, and 64 parts sulphur. 2071. Bengal, or Blue Signal Light, used at Sea. 1 part tersulphide of antimo- ny, 2 parts sulphur, and 6 parts dry nitre. ( See JVo. 2065.) 2072. Bengal Lights. Braunschweizer recommends the following mixtures as not producing injurious fumes: For red lights: 9 parts nitrate of strontia, 3 parts shellac, 1 parts chlorate of potassa. For green : 9 parts nitrate of baryta, 3 parts of shellac, li parts chlorate of potassa. For blue : 8 parts am- moniacal sulphate of copper, 6 parts chlorate of potassa, 1 part of shellac. 2073. Blue Fire for Stage Effect. 15 parts of sulphur, 15 parts sulphate of po- tassa, 15 parts animonio-sulphate of copper, 27 parts nitre, and 28 parts chlorate of potassa. The blue is made darker or lighter by increas- ing or diminishing tne potassa and copper in- gredients. This is Marchand's preparation. 2074. Marsh's Blue Fire. Mix 7 parts sulphate of copper, 24 sulphur, and 69 parts chlorate of potassa. 2075. Marsh's Crimson Fire for Pots. Mix 17 parts chlorate of potassa, 23 willow charcoal, 90 parts sulphur, and 270 parts nitrate of strontia. 2076. Marsh's Crimson Fire for Stars and Boxes. Mix 17 parts charcoal, 22 parts sulphuret of antimony, 69 chlorate of potassa, 72 parts sulphur, and 220 parts nitrate of strontia. 2077. Marchand's Purple Crimson Fire. Mix 16 parts sulphur, 23 parts dry chalk, 61 parts chlorate of potassa. 2078. Green Fire for Ghost Scenes. Equal parts charcoal and nitrate of baryta. 2079. Brilliant Green Fire. A mag- nificent green fire can be prepared by mixing 8 parts chlorate of thallium, 2 parts calomel, and 1 part resin. 2080. Green Fire. Take 2 parts metallic arsenic, 3 parts charcoal, 5 parts chlorate of p:tassa, 13 parts sulphur, 77 parts nitrate of baryta. This is a beautiful fire, particularly when burnt before a reflector of glass or metal. 2081. Marchand's Green Fire. Mix 10 parts boracic acid, 17 sulphur, and 73 parts chlorate of potassa. 2082. Green Fire for Theatrical Tableaux. Take 18 parts chlorate of potassa, 22 parts sulphur, 60 parts nitrate of baryta. 2083. Light Green Fire. Mix 16 parts sulphur, 24 carbonate of baryta, 60 parts chlorate of potassa. 2084. Green Fire for Pots or Stars. Take 7 parts charcoal, 7 sulphuret of arsenic, 42 parts sulphur, 93 parts chlorate of potassa, 250 parts nitrate of baryta. 2085. Lilac Fire for Pans. Take 6 parts black oxide of copper, 20 dry chalk, 25 parts sulphur, 49 parts chlorate of potassa. 2086. Lilac Fire for Stars. Take 3 parts black oxide of copper, 22 parts dried chalk, 25 parts sulphur, 50 chlorate of potassa. 2087. Bed Fire. Mix 16 parts sul- phur, 23 parts carbonate of strontia, 61 parts chlorate of potassa. 2088. Red Fire for Stage Effect. Mix 20 parts chlorate of potassa, 24 sulphur, 56 parts nitrate of strontia. 2089. Orange Bed Fire. Take 14 parts sulphur, 34 chalk, 52 parts chlorate of potassa. 2090. Purple Bed Fire. Sulphur, 16 parts, 23 parts chalk, 61 parts chlorate of potassa. 2091. Purple Fire. Take 1 part each of lampblack, red arsenic, and nitre ; 2 parts sulphur, 5 parts chlorate of potassa, and 16 parts fused nitrate of strontia. 2092. Pink Fire for the Stage. Mix 1 part charcoal, 20 chalk, 20 parts sulphur, 27 parts chlorate of potassa, 32 parts nitre. 2093. Bose Colored Fire. Take 16 parts sulphur, 23 dried chloride of calcium, 61 parts chlorate of potassa. 2094. Pale Violet Fire. Take 14 parts sulphur, 16 parts alum, 16 carbonate of potassa, 54 parts chlorate of potassa. 2095. Dark Violet Fire. Take 12 parts alum, 12 parts carbonate of potassa, 16 parts sulphur, 60 parts chlorate of potassa. 2096. White Fire for Theatres. Take 2 parts charcoal, 22 sulphur, 76 parts nitre. 2097. White Fire for Pans or Stars. Take 60 parts nitre, 20 parts sulphur, 10 black antimony, 4 parts powdered camphor, 6 parts meal powder. 2098. Marsh's White Fire for Pans. Take 25 parts gunpowder, 36 zinc filings, 46 parts sulphur, 93 parts nitre. 2099. Yellow Fire. Take 16 parts sul- phur, 23 parts dried (See No. 2065) carbonate of soda, 61 chlorate of potassa. 2100. Marsh's Yellow Fire. Mix 12 parts charcoal, 149 parts dry (see No. 2065) nitrate of soda, 39 parts sulphur. 2101. Fire-eating Ghosts. Pour some strong warm spirits into a flat dish, sprinkle some salt into it, and set it on fire on a table in a perfectly dark room, taking care to pro- tect the table from injury. Persons standing round the table will appear of a deathly pallor, and by eating raisins dipped in the burning spirit, will appear to eat fire. Shut- ting the mouth quickly on the burning raisins, extinguishes them instantly. 2102. Port Fire. The port fire used for cannon is composed of 3 parts nitre, 2 PYEOTECSNT. 2O5 sulphur, and 1 gunpowder, well mixed and rammed into cases. These are also useful for igniting fireworks. 2103. Signal Lights. Such lights are generally composed ofsulphur and nitre, with a small quantity of metallic sulphuret. Mix 600 grains nitre, 2 sulphur, and 100 yellow sulphuret of arsenic, and ram it into a conical paper case. "When touched with a red-hot iron it deflagrates rapidly with a brilliant white light. The sulphuret of antimony may be substituted for that of arsenic. 2104. Indian White Fire Signal. Dry (see No. 2065) nitre, 24 parts; sulphur, 7 parts ; powdered charcoal, 1 ; or instead oi the charcoal, 2 parts red sulphuret of arsenic. Mix them intimately in an iron vessel, and ram the mixture into thick paper cylinders of about 3 inches in length by 1 in diameter. These are kept in a dry place, and when one is required to be used, it is set on end, and a piece of red-hot charcoal placed upon it. 2105. Iron Sand for Fireworks. Used to give corruscations in fireworks, is far better than iron or steel-filings. It is made by beating cast steel or iron into small pieces on an anvil. These are sifted into 4 sizes, the smallest for the smallest pieces, and vice versa. The corruscations produced by these are exceedingly brilliant. The sand should be kept in a dry place in a well-closed bottle, as any rust damages it. Fireworks containing it should not be made very long before using. 2106. Open Fires. The following arti- cle and receipts for open fires are by Professor Ferrurn, and we quote them from the "Amer- ican Druggists' Circular" : Among the many receipts for open fires, but few deserve to be recommended, and these have been selected. The white and red fires only show a clear, distinct color. The green is generally pale, and shows off only when burnt after a red. A pure blue is very diffi- cult to obtain. The following should be ob- served as general rules : The ingredients for the fires are dried singly at a slightly elevated temperature, finely powdered, and preserved in well-stoppered bottles, until required for use The mixing of the ingredients is best performed on a sheet of paper by means of a card, and should be done very carefully so as to ensure a complete mixture. Sifting is in most cases admissible, while triturating in a mortar is above all to be avoided. After mixing, the powder is piled in small heaps in open vessels, for which purpose small flower- pots or flower-pot dishes are well adapted. On top of these several piles, some gunpow- der is placed to facilitate the lighting. The vessels should be arranged in such a manner that the flame may illuminate the intended object without being seen by the spectators. The distribution of the material into a greater or less number of dishes is governed by cir- cumstances. A great number of small flames from a certain quantity of mixture generally give a more intense, but so much shorter- lived light than the same quantity distributed in larger portions; beyond a certain limit, however, even that intensity is not materially heightened by a few more lights. If the fire is to continue for some time, it must further bo considered that large quantities of the mix- ture form a correspondingly greater amount of slags, which greatly mar the effect. It is, therefore, best in such cases to burn off a num- ber of small charges successively. 2107. White Fire. The foUowing mix- ture we recommend as the very best for white lights, being unsurpassed in brilliancy and power by any other : Saltpetre, 18 parts; sulphur, 10 parts; black sulphuret of antimony, 3 parts ; burnt lime, 4 parts. The sulphur is used in the form of flowers previously dried ; the lime is not to be slacked, but must be finely powder- ed ; it must be fresh, and be powdered imme- diately before use. All other mixtures for white fires have either a, bluish tinge or con- tain deleterious ingredients, which render them at least unsuitable for indoor use. Of the latter class we will mention only one: Saltpetre, 12 parts; sulphur, 4 parts; sul- phite of tin, 1 part. Two other mixtures de- serve mention, though not equal to the last : I. Saltpetre, 48 parts; sulphur, 13J parts; sulphide of sodium, 74 parts; and II. Saltpetre, 64 parts ; sulphur, 21 parts ; gunpowder, 15 parts. 2108. Blue Fire. The only mixture to be relied on, though the light is not purely blue, but bluish white, is the following : Saltpetre, 12 parts ; sulphur, 4 parts ; black sulphuret of antimony, 1 part. 2109. Red Fire. The following mix- ture is the best in use ; its composition may be altered by various admixtures : I. Nitrate of strontia, 13 parts ; sulphur, 1 part ; powder dust, 1 part. The latter ingre- dient is prepa'red from fine gunpowder, rubbed up carefully in a mortar and then sifted through a hair sieve. Another receipt is : II. Nitrate of strontia, 24 parts; chlorate of potassa, 16 parts; stearine, 4 parts; powder- ed charcoal, 1 part. In using chlorate of potas- sa the precautions given in No. 2124 must be strictly observed, and all pounding and rub- bing avoided. III. Nitrate of strontia, 20 parts; chlorate of potassa, 4 parts ; sulphur, 5 parts ; black sulphuret of antimony, 2 parts; powdered charcoal, 1 part. Gives a very, strong light. The nitrate of strontia for these fires, as the ingredients for all others, must be well, but arefully dried. (See No. 2065.; 2110. Yellow Fire. This color, which is very little used, is produced by the follow- ing mixture : Nitrate of soda, 48 parts ; sul- phur, 16 parts ; black sulphuret of antimony, 4 parts ; powdered charcoal, 1 part. 2111. Green Fires. The coloring in- gredients for these lights are the salts of ba- ryta. The color is generally not very deep. I, Nitrate of baryta, 45 parts ; sulphur, 10 parts ; chlorate of potassa, 20 parts ; calomel, i parts ; lampblack, 1 part. II. -Nitrate of baryta, 60 parts; chlorate of potassa, 18 parts ; sulphur, 22 parts. III. Chlorate of baryta, 3 parts ; sulphur, 1 part. IT. Chlorate of baryta, 24 parts ; stearin, 3 parts ; sugar of milk, 1 part. V. Chlorate of baryta, 3 parts; sugar of milk, 1 part. 2112. Colored Lights. "We derive the receipts for these from the same source as the open fires. (See No. 2106.) Colored lights are formed by filling cylinders of thin writing 206 EXPLOSIVES. paper of about an inch in diameter with the mixtures. The length of the cylinder deter- mines the duration of the light. The mix- tures may be moistened and pounded into the cylinder with a wooden rod; after drying, they will then be hard enough to allow of the removal of the paper, and may be further strengthened by being dipped in or painted over with mucilage of gum-arabic. The cyl- inders, when finished, are tied to the upper end of sticks fastened in the ground in a vertical position. The mixtures vary essentially from those used for colored fires. 2113. White Lights. Saltpetre, 4 parts ; sulphur, 1 part ; black sulphuret of antimony, 1'part. 2114. Yellow Lights. I. Black sul- phuret of antimony, 2 parts ; chlorate of po- tassa, 4 parts; sulphur, 2 parts; oxalate of soda, 1 part. II. Saltpetre, 140 parts; sulphur, 45 parts; oxalate of soda, 30 parts ; lampblack, 1 part. 2115. Green Lights. I. Chlorate of baryta, 2 parts; nitrate of baryta, 3 parts; sulphur, 1 part. II. Chlorate of potassa, 20 parts; nitrate of baryta, 21 parts; sulphur, 11 parts. 2116. Red Lights. Nitrate of strontia, 25 parts ; chlorate, of potassa, 15 parts ; sul- phur, 13 parts ; black sulphuret of antimony, 4 parts ; mastich, 1 part. 2117. Pink Lights. Chlorate of potas- sa, 12 parts ; saltpetre,.5 parts ; sugar of milk, 4 parts ; lycopodium, 1 part ; oxalate of stron- tia, 1 part. 2118. Blue Lights. Chlorate of potas- sa, 3 parts; sulphur, 1 part; ammoniated copper, 1 part. 2119. Colored Lights without Sul- phur For Indoor Illuminations. These are used for the purpose of lighting up tab- leaux vivants, and for private theatricals. 2120. White Light. Chlorate of po- tassa, 12 parts; saltpetre, 4 parts; sugar of milk, 4 parts ; lycopodium, 1 part ; carbonate of baryta, 1 part. 2121. Yellow Light. Chlorate of po- tassa, 6 parts :( or nitrate of baryta 10 party); saltpetre, 6 parts ; oxalate of soda, 5 parts ; powdered shellac, 3 parts. 2122. Green Light. Only after yellow or rod lights. Chlorate of potassa, 2 parts ; nitrate of baryta, 1 part ; sugar of milk, 1 part. 2123. Red Light. Nitrate of strontia, 12 parts ; chlorate of potassa, 8 parts ; sugar of milk, 1 part ; stearine, 2 parts. 21 24. Caution in the Use of Chlorate of Potassa. This substance should never be kept in admixture with any inflammable matter, especially sulphur or phosphorus, as they explode with terrific violence by the most trivial causes, and not unfrequently spon- taneously. All pounding and rubbing must be avoided. 2125. Paper for Producing Flashes of Colored Light. Soak unsized paper for ten minutes in a mixture of 4 parts, by mea- sure, oil of vitriol, and 5 parts strong fuming nitric acid ; wash out thoroughly in warm dis- tilled water, and dry it thoroughly at a gentle heat. The paper thus prepared is similar in its properties to gun cotton, and a small pellet of it, lighted at one point at a flame, and then thrown into the air, will produce a brilliant flash, and leave no perceptible ash. The color is given by saturating the gun-paper in the one of the solutions given below, and then drying it. A solution of chlorate of strontium makes the flash a bright crimson. Chlorate of barium, green. Mtrate of potassium, violet. Chlor- ate of copper, blue. Any one of the foregoing chlorates may be prepared by mixing a warm solution of the corresponding chloride with an equivalent quantity of a warm solution of chlorate of potassa; the precipitate formed will be chloride of potassium, and the clear liquid, poured off, will be the desired chlorate, to be used for saturating the gun-paper. 2126. Japanese Matches. Lampblack, 5 parts ; sulphur, 11 parts ; gunpowder, from 26 to 30 parts, this last proportion varying with the quality of the powder. Grind very fine, and make the material into a paste with alcohol; form it into dice, with a knife or spatula, about 4 inch square ; let them dry rather gradually on a warm mantel-piece, not too near a fire. "When dry, fix one of the lit- tle squares in a small cleft made at the end of a stalk of broom-corn. Light the material at a caudle, hold the stem downward, and await the result. After the first blazing off, a ball of molten lava will form, from which the curious corruscations will soon appear. 2127. Japanese Firework Mixture. Finely pulverized nitrate of potassa, 70 parts; washed flowers of sulphur, 30 parts; powdered lycopodium, 12 parts; best and very light lampblack, 8 parts. From li to 2 grains of this powder are sufficient for use packed in strips of suitable paper. 2128. Colored Flames. The flame of alcohol may bo colored by mixing certain salts with the spirit. A green color is given by muriate of copper, or boracic acid. lied, by nitrate of strontian, nitrate of iron, or nitrate of lime. Yellow, by nitrate of soda, &c. 2129. Greek Fire. True Greek fire is simply a solid, highly combustible composi- tion, consisting of sulphur and phosphorus dissolved in the bisulphide of carbon, to which occasionally some mineral oil is added, with the view 01 increasing its incendiary powers. When the liquid is thrown on any surface ex- posed to the air the solvent evaporates, leav- ing a film of the phosphorus or sulphide of phosphorus, which then inflames sponta- neously. The proper mode of extinguishing such a fire is to throw damp sand, ashes, saw- dust, lime, or any powder, wet sacking or carpeting, in short, any material which will exclude the air from the fire. N"o attempt should be made to remove the covering for some time after the flame has been extin- guished. The place should afterward be thor- oughly washed by a powerful jet of water forced upon it. ,V6S. This is a general I Jterm for all substances which explode with violence. Some of these, as gunpowder, gun-cotton, &c., explode by being brought into contact with fire. Others, to which the term of Fulminates is applied, explode with violence by slight heat, friction, or concussion. EXPLOSIVES. 207 2131. Fulminating 1 Antimony. Grind well together 100 parts of dried tartar emetic, and 3 parts of lampblack, or charcoal powder; then take a crucible capable of holding 3 ounces of water, and having ground its edge smooth, and rubbed the inside with powdered charcoal, fill it with the above mixture, cover it with a layer of charcoal powder, and lute on the cover. Expose it for 3 hours to a strong heat in a reverberatory furnace, and, when taken out, let it stand to cool for 6 or 7 hours before removing its contents, to prevent an explosion. The crucible being now opened, the contents must be hastily transferred, with- out breaking, to a Avide-inouthed stoppered phial, when, after some time, it will crumble down into a powder of itself. Or : Triturate together, very carefully, 100 parts antimony, 75 parts carburetted (roasted to blackness) cream of tartar, and 12 parts lampblack ; pre- serve it in phials. When the above processes are properly conducted, the resulting powders fulminate violently on contact with water. It is to the presence of the very inflammable metal potassium that they owe this property. Another compound, made with BO parts of carburetted cream of tartar, 120 bismuth, and 1 of nitre, treated as above, contains an alloy very rich in potassium. A piece the size of a pea introduced into a mass of gunpowder ex- plodes it on being thrown into water. 2132. Fulminating Gold. Dissolve gold in aqua regia (made by dissolving 4 ounces sal ammoniac in 12 or 16 ounces nitric acid), and precipitate with a solution of car- bonate of potassa. Fulminating gold should be made in very small quantities at a time, to avoid risk, as without great care it explodes with extreme violence. This is caused by the slightest friction or sudden increase of heat. Its fulminating property may be destroyed by boiling it in pearlash lye, or oil of vitriol; and by heating the powder after washing it in water, pure gold will be obtained. 2133. Fulminating Silver. Digest ox- ide of silver (recently precipitated, and dried by pressure between bibulous paper) in con- centrated liquor of ammonia for 12 or 15 hours, pour off the liquid, and cautiously dry the black powder in the air. The decanted ammonia, when gently heated, yields, on cooling, small crystals, which possess a still more formidable power of detonation, and will scarcely bear touching, even while under the liquid. This compound is exploded by the slightest friction or percussion, and should therefore be only made in very small quanti- ties at a time, and handled with great caution. Its explosive powers are tremendous ; in fact, it can hardly be handled with safety, even in the moist state. Many frightful accidents have happened from the spontaneous explo- sion of this substance. At most 1 or 2 grains can be exploded with safety at one time. 2134. Fulminating * Mercury. Dis- solve by a gentle heat 100 parts, by weight, of mercury in 100 parts nitric acid of specific gravity 1.4 ; and when the solution has ac- quired a temperature of 130 Fahr., slowly pour it through a glass funnel tube- into 830 parts alcohol of specific gravity .830. As soon as the effervescence is over and white fumes cease to rise, filter it through double paper, wash with cold water, and dry by steam (not hotter than 212) or hot water. This is the formula of Dr. Ure, and said to be the cheapest and safest. If parts by measure be adopted, the above proportions will be, for 100 parts, by measure, of mercury, 740 parts niti'ic acid, and 830 parts alcohol. 2135. Fulminating Copper. Digest copper, in powder or filings, with fulminate of mercury or of silver, and a little water. It forms soluble green crystals that explode with a green flame. 2136. Fulminating Powder. Powder separately 3 parts nitre, 2 parts dry (sec No. 2065) carbonate of potash, and 1 flowers of sulphur ; mix them together carefully. If 20 grains of this compound are slowly heated on a shovel over the fire, it melts and becomes brown, exploding with a loud report. 2137. New Explosive Compound. B. G. Amend has observed that glycerine mixed with crystallized permanganate of potas- sa in a mortar spontaneously deflagrates. 2138. Priming for Percussion Caps. To make this compound 100 grains of fulmin- ating mercury are triturated with a wooden muller on marble, with 30 grains of water and 60 grains of gunpowder. This is sufficient for 400 caps. Dr. TJre recommends a solution of gum mastich in turpentine as a medium for attaching the fulminate to the cap. 2139. Percussion Pellets. Mix equal parts of the chlorate of potassa and sulphuret of antimony with liquid gum, so as to form a paste. When dry it may be formed into pel- lets, and used as percussion powder for guns. This composition, placed on the ends of splints dipped in sulphur, produces friction matches. This mixture may also be employed for per- cussion caps, only without the gum ; the two substances, mixed together dry, are forced into the caps, and a drop of varnish deposited on the inside surface of each. A mixture of the fulminate of mercury, chlorate of potassa, and sulphur, however, is more commonly used for lining percussion caps. 2140. To Make Gunpowder. Pulver-. ize separately, 76 parts nitrate of potassa, 11 sulphur, and" 13 freshly burned charcoal, and mix them with a little water, so as to form a cake when rolled out on a board. This is then dried on a clean sheet of paper placed in a warm situation, and afterwards crumbled into grains. It will form un glazed gunpowder. The pulverized ingredients, thoroughly mixed, without the addition of any water, constitute what is called meal powder ; this may also be made by pulverizing grained gunpowder very cautiously in a mortar, or with a muller. (Sec Porphyrization, No. 25.) 2141. To Prepare Gun-Cotton. The simplest way consists in immersing, for a few seconds, well-carded cotton in a mixture of equal parts, by volume, of oil of vitriol of specific gravity 1.845, and nitric acid of spe- cific gravity of 1.500. The cotton, when well saturated, is to be removed and squeezed to repel the excess of acid, and then well wash- ed in clean cold water, until the water no longer reddens litmus paper. It is then dried at a heat not exceeding 212. A lower tem- perature is still safer. The cotton thus pre- pared explodes well, but does not dissolve easily in ether. TJlider Collodion will be found other preparations of Gun-Cotton. 208 CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES. 2142. Nitroglycerine. This is an oily, colorless liquid, with a specific gravity of 1.60. It has no smell, but a taste which at first is sweet, but soon becomes pungent, like pepper; is soluble in ether and methylic alcohol, but | not in water, but the presence of water di- minishes the risk of explosion. It begins to evaporate at 365 Fahr. It has been found that pure nitro-glycerine, dropped upon a thor- oughly red hot iron, assumes a spheroidal state and flashes off into vapor in the same way as gunpowder; but if the iron is not red hot, only hot enough to cause the nitro-glycerine to boil suddenly, a frightful explosion takes place. The explosion of a single drop in this manner will cause serious damage. This dan- gerous compound requires most careful hand- ling, a slight shock sometimes exploding it. 2143. To Prepare Nitro-glycerine. Mix 100 parts fuming nitric acid at 50 Baume with 200 parts sulphuric acid; when cool, add 38 parts glycerine slowly, allowing it to trickle down the sides of the vessel. The glycerine will remain on the surface for hours without mixing. Stir the glycerine and acids with a glass rod for 10 seconds, pour it into 20 times its volume of water, and the nitro- glycerine will be instantly precipitated to the extent of 76 parts, or double the amount of glycerine employed. It must be repeatedly washed with water, and then saturated with bicarbonate of soda or lime. 2144. Blasting Powders. Neither fresh nor salt water has any injurious effect on blasting powders; they need only to be dried to regain their explosive character. Their emitting but little smoke renders them useful in underground operations, and their explosive force is eight times that of gun- powder. They explode with extreme facility, either by contact with a strong acid, a slight elevation of temperature, or the slightest fric- tion. In preparing them, therefore, excessive precaution is necessary, especially in mixing the ingredients. A straw, slightly wetted with oil of vitriol, applied to a small heap of the powder, will cause instantaneous explosion. 2145. To Make Blasting Powder. Reduce separately to powder, 2 parts chlorate of potassa and 1 part red sulphuret of arsenic; mix very lightly together. Or: Powder separately, 5 parts chlorate of potassa, 2 parts red sulphuret of arsenic, and 1 part ferrocyan- ide of potassium (prussiate of potassa) ; mix carefully. Or: Mix carefully, as before, after having separately reduced to powder, equal parts chlorate of potassa and ferrocyanide of potassium. 2146. Parlor or Congreve Matches. Dissolve 16 parts gum-arabic in the least pos- sible quantity of water, and mix with it 9 parts phosphorus in powder (sec No. 2696) ; then add 14 parts nitre (saltpetre), and 16 parts of either vermilion (red sulphuret of mercury), or binoxide (black oxide) of man- ganese, and form the whole into a paste. Dip the matches into this paste, and then let them dry. "When quite dry they are to be dipped into a very dilute copal or lac varnish, and again dried; by this means they are less likely to suffer from damp weather. 2147. Cheap Parlor Matches. A cheaper paste for dipping may be made by soaking 6 parts glue for 24 hours in a little water, and liquefied by rubbing in a heated mortar; 4 parts phosphorus are next added at a heat not exceeding 150 Fahr.; then add 10 parts finely powdered saltpetre ; and lastly 5 parts red lead and 2 parts smalts are mixed in, the whole being formed into a uniform paste. The matches are dipped, dried, var- nished, and dried again, as before. 2148. To Make Matches Without Sulphur. To obviate the use of sulphur for igniting the wood of the match, the ends of the matches are first slightly charred by nib- bing them against a red hot iron plate, and then dipped into as much white wax, melted in a suitable vessel, as will cover the bottom about i inch in depth. Or they may be dipped into camphorated spirit. Or into a solution of 1 ounce Yenice turpentine and i ounce camphor, in J pint oil of turpentine, with a little gum-benzoin and cascarilla by way of perfume. After any of the above preparations the matches are ready for dip- ping in the phosphorus paste. 2149. Substitute for Lucifer Matches. The dangers arising from the universal adop- tion of the common lucifer match have in- duced chemists to seek a substitute for it. M. Peltzer has recently proposed a compound which is obtained m the shape of a violet powder, by mixing together equal volumes of solutions of sulphate of copper, one of which is supersaturated with ammonia, and the other with hyposulphite of soda. A mixture of chlorate of potash and the above powder will catch fire by percussion or rubbing; it burns like gunpowder, and leaves a black residue. M. Viederbold proposes a mixture of hyposulphite of lead, or baryta, or chlorate of potash, for matches without phosphorus. The only inconvenience of this compound is that it attracts moisture too easily. 2150. Mixtures for Matches. For sulphur dips : Phosphorus, 3 parts ; glue, 6 parts ; sand, 1 part ; incorporated below 100 Fahr., with 10 parts of water. Or, phospho- rus, 5 parts ; fine sand, 4 parts ; red ochre, 1 part (or, ultramarine), part; gum-arabic, 5 parts, in 6 pints of water (or, 4 parts of glue in 9 parts or water). For stearine dips : Phos- phorus, 3 parts; brown oxide of lead, 2 parts; turpentine, | part, softened in 3 parts water. Instead of the brown oxide, 2 parts of red lead stirred up with i part of nitric acid may be used. Cements and Uniting ^-"^ Bod.i6S. In the preparation of ce- ments and all substances intended to produce close adhesion, whether in a semi-fluid or pasty state, freedom from dirt and grease is a most essential and necessary condition. Quite as much depends upon the manner in which a cement is applied as upon the cement itself. The best cement that ever was compounded would prove entirely worthless if improperly applied. The preparations given below will be found to answer every reasonable demand; and if prop"erly prepared and used strictly ac- cording to the directions laid down, will sel- dom fail to form a union as strong, if not stronger than the substances joined. The first point that demands attention, is to bring CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES 209 the cement itself into intimate contact with the surface to be united. This end is best reached, when using hot cements, by making the edges to be joined at least as hot as the cement when applied, or as nearly so as can be done without injury to the substance; in eorne cases it is even preferable to melt the cement on the heated edges. Another very important point is to use as little cement as possible. "WTien the surfaces are separated by a large mass of cement, we have to depend upon the strength of the cement itself, and not upon its adhesion to the surfaces which it is used to join ; and, in general, cements are comparatively brittle. Sealing-wax is a very good agent for uniting mefeal to glass or stone, provided the masses to be united are made so hot as to fuse the cement ; but if the cement is applied to them while they are cold, it will not stick at all. This fact is well known to venders of cement for uniting earthenware. By heating two pieces, so that they will fuse shellac, they are able to join them so that they will rather break at any other part than along the line of union. But although people constantly see the operation performed, and buy liberally of the cement, it will be found in nine cases out of ten the cement proves worthless in their hands, simply because they do not know how to use it. They are afraid to heat a delicate glass or porcelain vessel to a sufficient degree, and they are apt to use too much of the material, and the result is a fail- ure ; the cement is consequently deemed good for nothing. The great obstacles to the junction of any two surfaces are air and dirt. The former is universally present, the latter is due to accident or carelessness. All surfaces are covered with a thin adhering layer of air which it is difficult to remove, and unless this is displaced, the cement cannot adhere to the surface to which it is applied, simply because it cannot come into contact with it. The most efficient agent in displacing this adher- ing air is heat. Metals warmed to a point a little above 200 become instantly and com- pletely wet when immersed in water. Hence, for cements that are used in a fused condition, heat is the most efficient means of bring- ing them in contact with the surfaces to which they are to be applied. In the case of glue, the adhesion is best attained by moder- ate pressure and friction. 2152. Armenian or Jeweler's Ce- ment. The following is a receipt for a strong cement used by some oriental nations, for the purpose of attaching precious stones to metallic surfaces : Take 6 pieces of gum mastic, the size of a pea, and dissolve them in the smallest possible quantity of 95 per cent, alcohol. Soften some isinglass in wa- ter (though none of the water must be used), and saturate strong brandy with it till you have 2 ounces of glue ; then rub in 2 small pieces of gum ammoniac. Mix the two pre- parations at a heat. Keep well stoppered. Set the bottle in hot water before using. It is said by the Turks that this preparation will unite two metallic surfaces, even of polished steel. 2153. Keller's Armenian Cement for Glass, China, &c. Soak 2 drachms cut isinglass in 2 ounces water for 24 hours ; boil down to 1 ounce ; add 1 ounce spirit of wine, and strain through linen. Mix this, while hot, with a solution of 1 drachm mastic in 1 ounce rectified spirit, and triturate thoroughly with | drachm powdered gum ammoniac. 2154. Tire's Diamond Cement. Take 1 ounce isinglass and 6 ounces distilled water; boil down to 3 ounces ; add 1 ounces recti- fied spirit. Boil for 2 minutes, strain, and add, while hot, h ounce of a milky emulsion of ammoniac, and 5 drachms tincture of gum mastic. 2155. Chinese Cement. Take of or- ange shellac, bruised, 4 ounces ; highly recti- fied spirit of wine, 3 ounces. Set the mixture in a warm place, frequently shaking it till the shellac is dissolved. Wood naphtha may be substituted for the spirit of wine, but the un- pleasant smell of the naphtha is some objec- tion. 2156. To Mend Broken Glass. A much better process for mending broken glass, china and earthenware with shellac, than heating them, is to dissolve the shellac in alcohol to about the consistence of molasses, and with a thin splinter of wood or pencil- brush touch the edges of the broken ware. In a short time it sets without any heating, which is often inconvenient. It will stand every contingency but a heat equal to boiling water. 2157. To Mend Crockery Ware. One of the strongest cements and easiest ap- plied for this purpose is lime and the white of an egg. To use it, take a sufficient quan- tity of the egg to mend one article at a time, shave off a quantity of lime, and mix thor- oughly. Apply quickly to the edges and place firmly together, when it will very soon become set and strong. Mix but a small quantity at once, as it hardens very soon, so that it cannot be used. Calcined plaster of Paris would answer the same purpose. 2158. Badigeon. A cement used by operatives and artists to fill up holes and cover defects in their work. Statuaries use a mixture of plaster and free-stone for this pur- pose ; carpenters, a mixture of sawdust and glue, or of whiting and glue ; coopers use a mixture of tallow and chalk. The same name is given to a stone colored mixture used for the fronts of houses, and said to be com- posed of wood-dust and lime slacked together, stone-powder, and a little umber or sienna, mixed up with alum water to the consistence of paint. 2159. Japanese Cement. Intimately mix the best powdered rice with a little cold water, then gradually add boiling water until a proper consistence is acquired, being par- ticularly careful to keep it well stirred all the time ; lastly, it must be boiled for one minute in a clean sauce-pan or earthen pipkin. This glue is beautifully white and almost transpar- ent, for which reason it is well adapted for fancy paper work, which requires a strong and colorless cement. 2160. Curd Cement. Add i pint vine- gar to | pint skimmed milk. Mix the curd with the whites of 5 eggs well beaten, and sufficient powdered quick-lime sifted in with constant stirring, so as to form a paste. It resists water, and a moderate degree of heat, and is useful for joining small pieces of marble or alabaster. 210 CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES. 2161. To Make a Cement that will Resist Benzine and Petroleum. It has quite recently been discovered that gelatine mixed with glycerine yields a compound li- quid when hot, but which solidifies on cooling, and forms a tough, elastic substance, having much the appearance and characteristics of India rubber. The two substances united form a mixture entirely and absolutely insol- uble in petroleum or benzine, and the great problem of making casks impervious to these fluids is at once solved by brushing or paint- ing them on the inside with the compound. This is also used for printers' rollers and for buffers of stamps, as benzine or petroleum will clean them when dirty in the most perfect manner and in an incredibly short space of time. "Water must not be used with this com- pound. 2162. Cement to Resist Petroleum. A cement peculiarly adapted to stand petro- leum or any of its distillates is made by boil- ing 3 parts resin with 1 caustic soda and 5 water. This forms a resin soap which is after- ward mixed with half its weight of plaster of Paris, zinc white, white lead, or precipitated chalk. The plaster hardens in about 40 min- utes. 2163. Cement for Aquaria. Mix 3 pounds well dried Venetian red (finely pow- dered) with 1 pound oxide of iron, and add as much boiling oil as will reduce it to a stiff paste. 2164. Cement for Marine Aquaria. Take 10 parts by measure litharge, 10 parts plaster of Paris, 10 parts dry white sand, 1 part finely powdered resin, and mix them, when wanted for use, into a pretty stiff putty with boiled linseed oil. This will stick to wood, stone, metal, or glass, and hardens under water. It is also good for marine aqua- ria, as it resists the action of salt water. It is better not to use the tank until 3 days after it has been cemented. 2165. Water Cement. Manganese is found to be a valuable ingredient in water ce- ments. 4 parts gray clay are to be mixed with 6 parts black oxide of manganese, and about 90 parts good lime stone reduced to fine powder, the whole to be calcined to expel the carbonic acid ; when well calcined and cooled, to be worked into the consistence of a stiff paste, with 60 parts washed sand. 2166. Cement for Glass Syringes. Take resin, 2 parts; gutta percha, 1 part; melt together over a slow fire, apply hot, and trim with a hot knife. 2167. Quickly-Setting Bust Joint Cement. Make into a paste with water 1 part by weight sal ammoniac in powder, 2 parts flower of sulphur, and 80 parts iron borings. 2168. Slowly-Setting Bust Joint Ce- ment. Make into a paste with water, 2 parts eal ammoniac, 1 part flower of sulphur, and 200 parts iron borings. This cement is better than the last if the joint is not required for immediate use. 2169. Bed Lead Cement for Face Joints. Mix 1 part each white and red lead with linseed oil to the proper consistence. 2170. Singer's Cement for Electrical Machines and Galvanic Troughs. Melt together 5 pounds resin., and 1 pound bees' wax, and stir in 1 pound red ochre (highly dried, and still warm), with 4 ounces Paris plaster, continuing the heat a little above 212 and stirring constantly till all frothing ceases. Or, (for troughs), resin, 6 pounds ; dried red ochre, 1 pound; calcined plaster of Paris, i pound ; linseed oil, pound. 2171. Cement for Bopms. M. Sarel, of Paris, has made an invention which is pro- nounced better than plaster of Paris for coat- ing the walls and ceilings of rooms. A coat of oxide of zinc, mixed with size, made up like a wash, is first laid on, and over that a coat of chloride of zinc applied, prepared in the same way as the first wash. The oxide and chloride effect an immediate combination, and form a kind of cement, smooth and pol- ished as glass, and possessing the advantages of oil paint without its disadvantages of smell. 2172. Coppersmith's or Blood Ce- ment. Bullock's blood thickened with finely powdered quicklime makes a good cement to secure the edges and rivets of copper boilers, to mend leaks from joints, &c. It must be used as soon as mixed, as it rapidly gets hard. It is extremely cheap and very durable, and is suited for many purposes where a strong cement is required. 2173. Pew's Composition for Cover- ing Buildings. Take the hardest and purest limestone (white marble is to be preferred), free from sand, clay, or other matter ; calcine it in a reverberatory furnace, pulverize, and pass it through a sieve. 1 part, by weight, is to be mixed with 2 parts clay well baked and similarly pulverized, conducting the whole operation with great care. This forms the first powder. The second is to be made of 1 part calcined and pulverized gypsum, to which is added 2 parts clay, baked and pul- verized. These two powders are to* be com- bined, and intimately incorporated, so as to form a perfect mixture. When it is to be used, mix it with about a fourth part of its weight of water, added gradually, stirring the mass well the whole time, until it forms a thick paste, in which state it is to be spread like mortar upon the desired surface. It be- comes in time as hard as stone, allows no moisture to penetrate, and is not cracked by heat. "When well prepared it will last any length of time. "When in its plastic or soft state, it may be colored of any desired tint. 2174. Hard Hydraulic Cement. A cement which is said to have been used with great success in covering terraces, lining ba- sins, cementing stones, etc., resisting the fil- tration of water, and so hard that it scratches iron, is formed of 63 parts well-burned brick, and 7 parts litharge, pulverized and moistened with linseed oil. Moisten the surfaces to which it is to be applied. 2175. Universal Cement. Dissolve 2 ounces mastic in just enough 95 per cent, al- cohol to effect a solution. Then soak 2 ounces isinglass, or fish-glue until it is thor- oughly softened. Dissolve the isinglass in proof spirits sufficient to form a strong glue, and then add 1 ounce finely pulverized gum am- moniac. "Warm the two mixtures together over a slow fire, and when they are thorough- ly mixed, bottle and hermetically seal them. This cement becomes perfectly dry in 12 or 15 hours. "When the cement is to be used, CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES. 211 the bottle should be heated in a water bath to liquefy it; the fragments to be cementec should also be heated before joining them, and, as a matter of course, the surfaces we! cleaned. Glass, crockery, &c., restored by the above cement, are as solid as before hav- i ing been mended, and the seams are scarcely I risible. 2176. To Cement Amber. Amber is joined or mended by smearing the surface? with boiled linseed oil, and strongly pressing them together, at the same time holding them over a charcoal fire or heating them in any other way that will not injure the amber. 2177. To Cement Alabaster and Plas- ter. Ornaments of alabaster or plaster may be joined together by means of a little white of egg, thickened with finely-powdered quick- lime, or by a mixture of newly-baked and finely-powdered plaster of Paris, mixed up with the least possible quantity of water. 2178. Mending Plaster Models. Wax and resin, or shellac varnish, is recommended for the above purpose. Dr. Chaim suggests the use of liquid silex. "Wet the two surfaces with it, and allow a few moments to dry. It will be found very useful in cases of accident to a cast. 2179. Waterproof Mastic Cement. Mix together 1 part red lead to 5 parts ground lime, and 5 parts sharp sand, with boiled oil. Or : 1 part red lead to 5 whiting and 10 sharp sand mixed with boiled oil. 2180. Marble Workers' Cement. Flower of sulphur, 1 part ; hydrochlorate of ammonia, 2 parts ; iron filings, 16 parts. The above substances must be reduced to a pow- der, and securely preserved in closely stop- ped vessels. "When the cement is to be em- ployed, take 20 parts very fine iron filings, add 1 part of the above powder, mix them together with enough water to form a man- ageable paste. This paste solidifies in 20 days and becomes as hard as iron. 2181. Masons' Cement for Coating the Insides of Cisterns. Take equal parts of quicklime, pulverized baked bricks, and wood ashes. Thoroughly mix the above sub- stances, and dilute with sufficient olive oil to form a manageable paste. This cement imme- diately hardens in the air, and never cracks beneath the water. 2182. Colored Cements. Professor Boettger prepares cement of different colors and great hardness by mixing various bases with soluble glass. Soluble soda glass of 33 Baume is to be thoroughly stirred and mixed with fine chalk, and the coloring matter (see 12 following receipts} well incorporated. In the course of 6 or 8 hours a hard cement will set, which is capable of a great variety of uses. As soluble glass can be kept on hand in liquid form, and the chalk and coloring matters are permanent and cheap, the colored cements can be readily prepared when wanted, and the material can be kept in stock, ready for use, at but little expense. Boettger re- commeuds the following coloring matters : 2183. Black Cement. "Well sifted sul- phide of antimony, mixed with soluble glass and chalk (see No. 2182), gives a black mass, which, after solidifying, can be polished or burnished with agate, and then possesses a fine metallic lustre. 2184. Grey-Black Cement. Fine iron dust, mixed as in No. 2182, gives a grey-black cement. 2185. Grey Cement. Zinc dust. This, used as in No. 2182, makes a grey mass, ex- ceedingly hard, which, on polishing, exhibits a brilliant metallic lustre of zinc, so that broken or defective zinc castings may be mended and restored by a cement that might be called a cold zinc casting. It adheres firm- ly to metal, stone, and wood. 2186. Bright Green Cement. Carbon- ate of copper, used according to No. 2182, gives a bright green cement. 2187. Dark Green Cement. Sesqui- oxide of chromium, mixed as in No. 2182, gives a dark green cement. 2188. Blue Cement. Thenard's blue, used as in No. 2182, makes a blue cement. 2189. Yellow Cement. Litharge, with soluble glass, it; also fill the bottle to the same level. Ifow pour coal oil inside and out on the water ; cut a ring of paper, fitting the bottle. Saturate with alcohol or benzine, so that it touches the oil. Pour, also, some inside the bottle. Set on fire; the cold water prevents the glass from heating below its surface, while the expansion caused by the heat will break the vessel on the water line. 2370. Glass of Antimony. Roast pow- dered antimony in a shallow vessel over a gentle fire, until it turns whitish gray, and ceases to emit fumes at a red heat ; then heat it in a crucible until it fuses into a brownish red glass. If calcined too much, a little more antimony must be added to make it run well. 2371. Writing on Glass. This may be done with a piece of French chalk, or crayons prepared for the purpose; or even with a common pen held nearly perpendicular. India ink, or, when the article will be exposed to damp, shellac varnish, thickened with a little vermilion or lampblack, for red or black color, is best adapted for the purpose. Com- mon ink is not sufficiently opaque. 2372. To Imitate Ground Glass. A ready way of imitating ground glass is to dis- solve Epsom salts in beer, and apply with a brush. As it dries it crystallizes. 2373. To Make Prince Rupert's Drops. Prince Rupert's drops are made by letting drops of melted glass fall into cold wa- ter ; the drops assume by that means an oval form, with a tail or neck resembling a retort. They possess this singular property, that if a small portion of the tail is broken off, the whole bursts into powder, with an explosion, and a considerable shock is communicated to the hand that grasps it. 2374. To Etch on Glass. Etching with hydrofluoric acid on plate glass is practiced now to a very considerable extent, the French manufacturers especially producing splendid ornamental effects by this process. The drawings to be imitated or etched on the glass are first made on stone or plate and then printed on unsized paper with an ink consist- ing principally of a solution of asphalturn in oil of turpentine made with the aid of heat, to which some substance is added which shows a more or less crystalline structure on cooling, as stearic acid, spermaceti, naphthaline, par- affme. This mixture is strained and rapidly cooled with constant stirring ; it is the only kind of coating which thoroughly resists the action of the corrosive acid. The printed pa- per is laid flat with the blank side on water, to which from 10 to 25 per cent, of muriatic acid has been added, and as soon as the lines show signs of softening the negative printing is transferred to the glass by a slight pressure; when the paper is removed, the picture will adhere to the glass, and this is afterwards ex- posed to the fluoric vapors in leaden troughs. 2375. To Etch or Write on Glass. A writer in Dingler's "Polytechnisches Journal" recommends a solution of fluoride of ammo- nium, which can be used with an ordinary quill, and on drying leaves a distinct line. 2376. To Engrave on Glass. To en- grave on glass, fluoric acid is used, either in the liquid state or in vapor. This acid is kept in metal bottles, and requires very careful handling. The glass must be warmed, and coated with wax, or engravers' cement, and the writing or design traced through the wax with a pointed instrument. The liquid fluoric acid is poured on it, and left to act on the un- covered portions of the glass ; or pour some of the acid in a small lead pan, which place in a still larger vessel filled with sand ; heat the sand and place the glass object over the gas liberated from the heated acid, and it will soon be found to be beautifully etched. Great care must be taken when this is going on, for the gas, as well as the acid, is of a very dele- terious character. The same effect may be produced by the use of fluorspar, powdered and made into a paste with oil of vitriol, laid over the prepared surface, and covered with lead-foil or tea-lead ; or bruised fluorspar is put in a wedgwood evaporating basin, with sufficient oil of vitriol to form a thin paste, and the prepared glass laid over the basin, so that the vapors may act on the portions from which the wax has been removed. 2377. Glass of Borax. Calcine borax with a strong heat till the water of crystalli- zation is expelled, and the salt fuses into a clear glass. Eliamels. A species of vitreous varnish, colored by means of metallic oxides (see No. 2393) and applied in a thin stratum to brightly polished metallic surfaces (copper or gold), on which it is fused by the flame of a blowpipe, or by the heat of a small furnace. The basis of all enamels is a highly transparent and fusible glass, called frit, flux, or paste. 2379. Base Frit or Flux for Enamels. The precise qualities of the products of the following processes depend greatly upon the duration and degree of heat entployed. By increasing the quantity of sand, glass, or flux, the enamel is rendered more fusible, and the opacity and whiteness is increased by the addi- 226 ENAMELS. tion of oxide of tin. The use of borax should be avoided, or used very sparingly, as it is apt to make the enamel effloresce and lose color. I. Red lead, 16 parts; calcined borax, 3 parts; powdered flint glass, 12 parts; pow- dered flints, 4 parts; fuse in a Hessian crucible for 12 hours, then pour it out into water, and reduce it to a powder in a biscuit-ware (unglaz- ed porcelain) mortar. II. Powdered flints, 10 parts; nitre and white arsenic, of each 1 part as last. III. Flint glass, 3 ounces; red lead, 1 ounce; as last. IT. Eed lead, 18 parts ; borax (not calcin- ed), 11 parts ; flint glass, 16 parts ; as last. T. Ffint glass, 6 parts; flux No. II, above, 4 parts; red lead, 8 parts; as last. YI. Tin, 2 to 5 parts ; lead, 10 parts ; cal- cine in an iron pot at a dull cherry-red heat, and scrape off the oxide as it forms, observing to obtain it quite tree from undecomposed metal ; when enough of the dross is obtained, reduce it to fine powder by grinding and elu- triation (see No. 14), then mix 4 parts of this powder with an equal weight of pure sand or powdered flints, and 1 of sea-salt, or other alkaline matter; fuse the mixture in a Hessian crucible, and proceed as before. The best proportions of the tin and lead, for all ordinary purposes, are about 3 of the former to 10 of the latter. The calcined mixed oxides are commonly called calcine. YII. Lead and tin, equal parts ; calcine as above ; and take of the mixed oxides, or cal- cine (see preceding receipt) and ground flints, of each 1 part ; pure subcarbonate of potash, 2 parts; as before. YIII. Lead, 30 parts; tin, 33 parts; calcine as before, then mix 50 parts of the calcine with an equal weight of flints, in powder, and 1 pound of salts of tartar ; as before. A fine dead white enamel. 2380. Black Enamels. I. Pure clay, 3 parts ; protoxide of iron, 1 part ; mix and fuse. A fine black. II. Calcined iron (protoxide), 12 parts; ox- ide of cobalt, 1 part ; mix, and add an equal weight of white flux. (See No. 2396.) III. Peroxide of manganese, 3 parts; zaffre, 1 part ; mix and add it as required to white flux. Zaffre is crude oxide of cobalt. 2381. Blue Enamels. Either of the white fluxes colored with oxide of cobalt. II. Sand, red lead, and nitre, of each 10 parts ; flint glass or ground flints, 20 parts ; oxide of cobalt, 1 part, more or less, the quan- tity depending on the depth of color required. 2382. Brown Enamels. I. Red lead and calcined iron, of each 1 part ; antimony, litharge, and sand, of each 2 parts; mix and add it in any required proportion to a flux, according to the color desired. A little oxide of cobalt or zaffre is frequently added, and alters the shade of brown. II. Manganese, 5 parts; red lead, 16 parts; flint powder, 8 parts ; mix. III. Manganese, 9 parts ; red lead, 34 parts ; flint powder, 16 parts. 2383. Green Enamels. I. Flux, 2 pounds ; black oxide of copper, 1 ounce ; red oxide of iron, ^ drachm ; mix. II. As above, but use the red oxide of cop- per. Less decisive. III. Copper dust and litharge, of each 2 ounces ; nitre, 1 ounce ; sand, 4 ounces ; flux, as much as required. IY. Add oxide of chrome to a sufficient quantity of flux to produce the desired shade ; when well managed the color is su- perb, and will stand a very great heat ; but in careless hands, it frequently turns on the dead-leaf tinge. Y. Transparent flux, 5 ounces ; black oxide of copper, 2 scruples ; oxide of chrome, 2 grains. Resembles the emerald. YI. Mix blue and yellow enamel in the re- quired proportions. 2384. Olive Enamels. Good blue en- amel, 2 parts ; black and yellow enamels, of each Ipart; mix. (Sec Brown Enamels.) 2385. Orange Enamels. I. Red lead, 12 parts ; red sulphate of iron and oxide of antimony, of each 1 part ; flint powder, 3 parts; calcine, powder, and melt with flux, 50 parts. II. Red lead, 12 parts ; oxide of antimony, 4 parts ; flint powder, 3 parts ; red sulphate of iron, 1 part ; calcine, then add flux, 5 parts to every 2 parts of this mixture. 2386. Purple Enamels. I. Flux col- ored with oxide of gold, purple precipitate of cassius (see Nos. 2720 to 2723), or peroxide of manganese. II. Sulphur, nitre, vitriol, antimony, and oxide of tin, of each 1 pound ; red lead, 60 pounds ; mix and fuse, cool and powder ; add rose copper, 19 ounces ; zaffre, 1 ounce ; cro- cus martis, 1 ounces; borax, 3 ounces; and 1 pound of a compound formed of gold, silver, and mercury; fuse, stirring the melted mass with a copper rod all the time, then place it in crucibles, and submit them to the action of a reverberatory furnace for 24 hours. This is said to be the purple enamel used in the mo- saic pictures of St. Peter's at Rome. 2387. Dark Bed Enamel. Sulphate of iron (calcined dark), 1 part; a mixture of 6 parts of flux IY. (in No. 2379) and 1 of colcothar, 3 parts. 2388. Light Bed Enamel. Red sul- phate of iron, 2 parts; flux I (in No. 2379) 6 parts ; white lead, 3 parts. Light red. 2389. Bed Enamel. Paste or flux col- ored with the red or protoxide of copper. Should the color pass into the green or brown, from the partial peroxidizement of the copper, from the heat being raised too high, the red color may be restored by the addition of any carbonaceous matter, as tallow, or charcoal. 2390. Beautiful Bed Enamel. The most beautiful and costly red, inclining to the purple tinge, is produced by tinging glass or flux with the oxide or salts of gold, or with the purple precipitate of cassius (see Nos. 2720 to 2723), which consists of gold and tin. In the hands of the skillful artist, any of these substances produce shades of red of the most exquisite hue ; when most perfect, the enamel comes from the fire quite colorless, and afterwards receives its rich hue from the flame of the blow-pipe. 2391. Bose Colored Enamels. Pur- ple enamel, or its elements, 3 parts ; flux, 90 parts; mix, and add silver-leaf or oxide of silver, 1 part or less. 2392. Transparent Enamels. Either of the first five fluxes in Xo. 2379. GLAZES. 227 2393. Violet Enamels. Saline or alka- line frits or fluxes colored with small quanti- ties of peroxide of manganese. As the color depends on the metal being at the maximum of oxidation, contact with all substances that would abstract any of its oxygen should be avoided. The same remarks apply to other > metallic oxides. 2394. Yellow Enamels. Superior yel- low enamels are less easily produced than most other colors ; they require but little flux, and that mostly of a metallic nature. I. Eedlead, 8 ounces ; oxide of antimony and tin, calcined together, each 1 ounce; mix, and add flux IV. (in No. 2379), 15 ounces ; mix and fuse. By varying the proportion of the ingredients, various shades may be produced. II. Lead, tin ashes, litharge, antimony, and sand, each 1 ounce ; nitre, 4 ounces ; mix, fuse, and powder, and add the product to any quantity of flux, according to the color re- quired. III. Flux fused with oxide of lead, and a little red oxide of iron. IT. Pure oxide of silver added to the me- tallic fluxes. The salts of silver are also used, but are difficult to manage. If a thin film of oxide of silver be spread over the sur- face of the enamel to be colored, exposed to a moderate heat, then withdrawn, and the film of reduced silver on the surface removed, the part under will be found tinged of a fine yel- low. 2395. Bright Yellow Enamel. White oxide of antimony, alum, and sal ammoniac, each 1 part ; pure carbonate 'of lead, 1 to 3 parts, as required, all in powder; mix, and ex- pose to a heat sufficiently high to decompose the sal ammoniac. 2396. Dead- White Enamel. For white enamel, the articles must be perfectly free from foreign admixture, as this would impart a color. When well managed, either of the following forms will produce a paste that will rival the opal. Calcine (from 2 parts of tin and 1 part of lead calcined together), 1 part ; fine crystal or frit, 2 parts; a very trifling quantity of manganese ; powder, mix, melt, and pour the fused mass into clean water ; dry, powder, and again fuse, and repeat the whole process 3 or 4 times, observing to avoid contamination with smoke, dirt, or oxide of iron. 2397. Fine White Enamel. "Washed diaphoretic antimony, 1 part ; fine glass (per- fectly free from lead), 3 parts ; mix, and pro- ceed as before. 2398. To Make Black Enamel for Gold or Silver. Melt together in a crucible, 1 part, by weight, of silver, 5 parts copper, 7 parts lead, and 5 parts muriate of ammonia. Add to this mixture twice its quantity of pul- verized sulphur, covering the crucible imme- diately. Let it calcine until the excess of sulphur has passed off. Then pound the com- pound to coarse powder and make it into a paste with a solution of muriate of ammonia. This is the black enamel used for jewelry. 2399. To Black Enamel Gold or Sil- ver. Place some of the enamel paste, as pre- pared in the preceding receipt, on the article to be enameled ; hold it over a spirit lamp until the enamel melts and flows upon it. It may then be smoothed and polished. 2400. Black or Enameled Copper. The beautiful enameled surface possessed by paintings on copper, may be produced, on a black ground, by the following process : Clean the copper with sand and sulphuric acid, and then apply the following mixture : 2 parts white arsenic, 4 parts hydrochloric acid, 1 sul- phuric acid, and 24 water. 2401. Enamel for Labels, Signboards, etc. The fine enamels of trade are generally prepared by fusing at high temperatures, silica, oxide of tin, and oxide of lead, and spreading the mixture over the surface of a sheet of copper, gold, or platinum. The ob- jections to these enamels are, in the first place their high cost, and secondly the impossibility of giving them a perfectly flat surface. Mr. B. Duchemin has advantageously replaced them by the following economical and efficient compound : 2402. Duchemin's Enamel for Labels, etc. Arsenic, 30 parts by weight ; saltpetre, 30 parts; silica (fine sand), 90 parts; litharge, 250 parts. This is spread on plates of glass of the required shape and size, care being taken, however, that the kind of glass em- ployed be not inferior in point of fusibility to the enamel. Enameled glass prepared from the above substances may be drawn or written on as readily as if it were paper, and in less time than one minute the writing may be rendered indelible by simply heating the plate in a small open furnace or muffle. Drawings, autographs, legal acts, public documents, his- torical tacts and dates of importance, labels for horticultural purposes or destined for out- of-door exposure, coffin plates, signboards, show-case signs, etc., may thus be cheaply made, which will resist atmospheric influences for ages. First-class photographs, either pos- itives or negatives, may be taken on such en- amels without collodion. (See Photographs on Enamel.) 2403. Enamel for Iron Hollow Ware. The enamel of iron hollow ware is made of powdered flints, ground with calcined borax, fine clay, and a little feldspar. This mixture is made into a paste with water and brushed over the pots after they have been scoured with diluted sulphuric acid and rinsed clean with water. While still moist they are dusted over with a glaze composed of feldspar, carbonate of sodium, borax, and a little oxide of tin. Thus prepared, the pots are gradually dried and then the glaze is fired or fused under a muffle at a bright red heat. Oxide of lead, although increasing the fusibility of the glaze, impairs its efficiency, as it will not resist the action of acids in cooking. G1&Z6S. Glazes must be reduced to a very fine powder. For use they are ground with water to a very thin paste or smooth cream, into which the articles, pre- viously baked to the state called " biscuit," are then dropped; they are afterwards exposed to a sufficient heat in the kiln to fuse the glaze. Another method of applying them is to immerse the biscuit in water for a minute or so, and then to sprinkle the dry powder over the moistened surface. 228 ARTIFICIAL GEMS. 2405. White Glazing. Prepare an in- timate mixture of 4 parts massicot (see Index), 2 parts tin ashes, 3 of crystal glass fragments, and part sea salt. The mixture is suffered to melt in earthenware vessels, when the li- quid flux may be made use of. 2406. Yellow Glazing. Take equal parts of massicot, red lead, and sulphuret of antimony. Calcine the mixture and reduce it again to powder, add then 2 parts of pure sand and Ik parts of salt. Melt the whole. 2407. Green Glazing. Sand, 2 parts; 3 parts massicot, 1 part of salt and copper scales, according to the shade to be produced. The mixture is melted as directed above. 2408. Violet Glazing. Massicot, 1 part ; 3 parts sand, 1 of smalt, and part black oxide of manganese. 2409. Blue Glazing. White sand and massicot, equal parts, part of blue smalt. 2410. Black Glazing. Black oxide of manganese, 2 parts; 1 of smalt, 1| of burned quartz, and H massicot. 2411. Brown Glazing. Take 1 part bro- ken green bottle glass, 1 of manganese, and 2 parts lead glass. 2412. Glaze without Lead. Common earthenware is glazed with a composition con- taining lead, on which account it is unfit for many purposes. The following glaze has been proposed, among others, as a substitute : 100 parts washed sand, 80 parts purified potash, 10 of nitre, and 20 of slacked lime, all well mixed, and heated in a black-lead crucible, in a reverberatory furnace, till the mass flows into a clear glass. It is then to be reduced to powder. The goods to be^ slightly burnt, dipped in water, and sprinkled with the pow- der. 2413. Glaze for Porcelain. Feldspar, 27 parts; borax, 18 parts; Lynn sand, 4 parts; nitre, 3 parts ; soda, 3 parts ; Cornwall china- clay, 3 parts. Melt together to form a frit, and reduce it to a powder with 3 parts calcined borax. 2414. Metallic Lustres for Pottery. The appearance of a lustrous metallic surface is given to vessels of stoneware, lil in last receipt. 2493. Gold Labels on Glass Bottles. Tn:3 finely divided gold, prepared as in No. 2491, is distributed in a solution of gum damar in naphtha, and the writing is to be done with this fluid by means of a brush. If the solu- tion should become too thick in course of time, a little naphtha is added and well shaken, when the gold paint will be ready for use again. The gum damar in drying will cover the written lines with a kind of varnish that will protect the gold from the action of acids or alkalies. 2494. Purple Ink, or King of Purples. Infuse 12 pounds campeachy logwood in 12 gallons water; provide a funnel at the bot- tom of which a sponge has been placed ; pour the infusion through a strainer made of coarse flannel into the funnel, and thence on to 1 pound hydrate or acetate of copper (verdigris) ; then add immediately 14 pounds alum ; and for each 17 gallons of the liquid, add 4 pounds gum-arabic or Senegal ; let these remain 3 or 4 days and a beautiful purple will be produced. 2495. Green Ink. Boil 2 parts acetate of copper and 1 part bitartrate of potassa in 8 Earts water, until the solution is reduced to alf the bulk ; filter through a cloth, and, when cool, bottle. 2496. Green Ink. Dissolve 180 grains bichromate of potassa in 1 fluid ounce of wa- ter ; add, while warm, ounce spirit of wine ; then decompose the mixture with concentra- ted sulphuric acid, until it assumes a brown color ; evaporate this liquor until its quantity is reduced to one-half; dilute it with 2 ounces distilled water ; filter it, add i ounce alcohol, followed by a few drops strong sulphuric acid ; it is now allowed to rest, and after a time it assumes a beautiful green color. After the addition of a small quantity of gum-arabic, it is ready for use. 2497. Violet. Magenta, and Solferino Ink. Inks of these, and such other bright aniline colors may be made as follows : Mix 1 drachm of the proper aniline color with li ounces alcohol (see No. 2578) in a glass or en- ameled iron vessel ; let it stand for 3 hours. Then add 13 ounces distilled water, and subject the whole to a gentle heat until the alcohol has evaporated, that is, until no odor of alcohol is perceptible; then add 4 drachms gum-arabic dissolved in 3 ounces water. Mix and strain. As the aniline colors of commerce vary a great deal in quality, the amount of dilution must vary with the sample used, and the shade determined by trial. 2498. Heusler's Bed Ink. Take 2 ounces best Brazil wood, ^ ounce pulverized alum, k ounce crystals of bitartrate of potassa, and 16 ounces distilled water ; boil down to one half, and strain. Then dissolve in it i ounce gum-arabic, and add 1 drachms coch- ineal dissolved in 1^ ounces alcohol of spe- cific gravity .839. 2499. Brilliant Bed Ink. Brazil wood, 2 ounces ; muriate of tin, i drachm ; gum- arabic, 1 drachm ; boil down in 32 ounces wa- ter to one half, and strain. 2500. Good Bed Ink. Ground Brazil wood, 8 ounces ; vinegar, 10 pints ; macerate for 4 or 5 days ; boil in a tinned-copper vessel to one half, then add roche alum, 8 ounces; and gum, 3 ounces ; dissolve. 2501. Buchner's Carmine Ink. Pure carmine, 12 grains ; water of ammonia, 3 ounces ; dissolve, then add powdered gum, 18 grains ; & drachm of powdered drop lake may be substituted for the carmine where expense is an object. This makes a superb carmine ink. 2502. Fine Bed Ink. Cochineal, in powder, 1 ounce; hot water, ^ pint; digest, 234: INKS. and when quite cold, add spirit of hartshorn, I pint ; or liquor of ammonia, 1 ounce ; dilute with 3 or 4 ounces of water ; macerate for a few days longer, then decant the clear. The color of this is very fine. 2503. Redwood's Bed Ink. Guaran- cine and liquor of ammonia, of each 1 ounce: distilled water (cold), 1 pint; triturate to- gether in a mortar, filter, and dissolve in the solution gum-arabic i ounce. (Cooley.) 2504. To Restore Writing Effaced with. Chlorine. Expose it to the vapor of sulphuret of ammonia, or dip it into a solution of the sulphuret. Or: Ferrocyanide of po- tassa, 5 parts ; water, 85 parts. Dissolve, and immerse the paper in the fluid, then slightly acidulate the solution with sulphuric or hydro- chloric acid. The method found to answer best has been to spread the ferrocyanide thin with a feather or a bit of stick cut to a blunt point. Though the ferrocyanide should occa- sion no sensible change of color, yet the mo- ment the acid comes upon it, every trace of a letter turns at once to a fine blue, which soon acquires its full intensity, and is beyond com- parison stronger than the color of the original trace. If, then, the corner of a bit of blotting paper be carefully and dexterously applied near the letters, so as to imbibe the superflu- ous liquor, the staining of the parchment may be in a great measure avoided ; for it is this superfluous liquor which, absorbing part of the coloring matters from the letters, becomes a dye to whatever it touches. Care must be taken not to bring the blotting-paper in con- tact with the letters, because the coloring matter is soft whilst wet, and may easily be rubbed off. The acid chiefly employed is the muriatic; but both the sulphuric and nitric succeed very well. They should be so far diluted as not to be liable to corrode the Sarchment, after which the degree of strength oes not seem to be a matter of much nicety. 2505. To make New Writing Look Old. Take 1 drachm saffron, and infuse it into k pint ink, and warm it over a gentle fire, and it will cause whatever is written with it to turn yellow, and appear as if of many years' standing. 2506. To Write on Greasy Paper or Parchment. Put to a bullock's gall 1 hand- ful of salt, and J pint vinegar, stir it until it is mixed well ; when the paper or parchment is greasy, put 1 drop of the gall into the ink, and the difficulty will be instantly obviated. 2507. To Remove Ink Blotches from Writing. "When ink blotches have been formed over writing which it is desired to decipher, we are advised to brush off" the spot carefully with a weak solution of oxalic acid by means of a camel's-hair pencil. In this way layer after layer of the superincum- bent ink will be removed, and finally the writing itself will, in most cases, come to view. This is especially possible where some considerable interval has elapsed between the two applications of ink. As soon as the let- ters are visible the brushing should be con- tinued for a time with clean water, so as to arrest the tendency of the acid solution to make a further change in the ink. 2508. Redwood's Indelible Marking Ink. Dissolve 1 ounce nitrate of silver and 1 ounces crystallized carbonate of soda in separate portions of distilled water, and mix the solutions; collect the resulting precipitate on a filter, wash it thoroughly with distilled water, and introduce it, while still moist, into a wedgwood-ware mortar; add 8 scruples tartaric acid, and triturate the whole until ef- fervescence has ceased ; next add sufficient ammonia to dissolve the tartrate of silver; mix in 4 fluid drachms archil, 4 drachms white sugar, and 12 drachms finely-powdered gum-arabic; then add sufficient distilled water to make 6 ounces of the mixture. This ink fulfills all the conditions that a marking ink should possess : It flows freely from the pen without running or blotting ; it does not re- quire a very stronger long continued heat to develop it; when developed it is perfectly black ; and it does not injure the texture of the finest fabric. 2509. Indelible Ink. The linen is first moistened with a fluid consisting of a mix- ture of 2 parts carbonate of soda in crystals, 2 parts gum-arabic, 8 parts water, and then dried. When quite dry, it is rubbed with a glass or smooth pebble to render it as smooth as possible, so that it may be easier to write upon. The composition of the ink itself is as follows : If parts nitrate of silver, 16 parts distilled water, 2 parts gum-arabic, and part sap green. The nitrate of silver is first dis- solved in the distilled water, and the gum-ara- bic and sap green are subsquently added. It is necessary to write with a quill peri, all me- tallic pens except gold ones decomposing the ink. It is a good plan to trace the letters on the linen with a pencil before writing them. This and the four following receipts are by Dr. Eeiman, who says that they have all been thoroughly well tried, and found effectual. 2510. Fine Marking Ink. Marking linen is most conveniently effected by using a small stiff brush and a small copper plate with perforations corresponding to the letters required. This stencil plate is laid upon the linen, and the ink is rubbed into the cut-out spaces with the brush. The following ink is of service for marking linen with a stencil plate : 2 parts nitrate of silver, 4 parts dis- tilled water, 2 parts gum-arabic, 3 parts carbonate of soda crystals, 5 parts liquid am- monia. The best way to prepare the ink is to first dissolve the nitrate of silver in the liquid ammonia, and the gum-arabic and soda in the distilled water. The two solutions are then mixed together and slightly warmed, when the whole mixture becomes brown. A few drops of a solution of magenta makes the ink somewhat more distinct. When this method is used, the linen requires no previous pre- paration. 2511. Aniline Marking Ink. Dissolve 8-J- grains bichloride of copper in 30 grains distilled water, then add 10 grains common salt, and 9-J- grains liquid ammonia. A solu- tion of. 30 grains hydrochlorate of aniline in 20 grains distilled water is then added to 20 grains of a solution of gum-arabic (contain- ing 2 parts water, 1 part gum-arabic)/ and lastly 10 grains of glycerine. 4 parts of the aniline solution thus prepared are mixed with 1 part of the copper solution. The liquid which results has a green appearance, and may be at once employed for marking linen, since it invariably becomes black after a few INKS. 235 days. A steel pen may be employed as well as a quill. If it is desirable not to wait so long for the appearance of the black color, a hot iron may be passed over the writing when the ink is dry, or the linen may be held over the flame of a spirit lamp, or over a hot plate, or hot water, when the black tint will readily appear. It is a good plan to put the linen, when marked, into a tepid solution of soap, which has the effect of bringing out a fine bluish tint. The ink must be so limpid that it is able to permeate the tissue of the linen, so that the marks appear on both sides. It is advisable to mix the solutions together, only when the ink has to be used. It is perfectly indelible, and so easy to write with that the finest devices may be drawn with it. This ink has the advantage of being cheaper than the ink prepared from nitrate of silver. It has also another advantage over the latter salt, viz. : that it is chemically indelible. 2512. Purple Marking Ink. A purple marking ink can be prepared by mixing 1 part bichloride of platinum with 16 parts distilled water. The place where the letters have to be written must be moistened with a solution of 3 parts carbonate of soda, 3 parts gum-arabic, and 12 parts water. The spot is then dried and made smooth. After the letters have been written with the platinum ink and be- come dry, the linen is moistened with a solu- tion of 1 part chloride of tin in 4 parts distilled water, when an intense and beautiful purple- red color makes its appearance. 2513. Cheap Brown Marking Ink. A very cheap brown marking ink may be pre- pared from 4 parts acetate of manganese dis- solved in 12 parts water. The place on the linen where the marks have to be made must be previously moistened with the following solution : 1 part yellow prussiate of potash, h part gum-arabic, 3 parts water. The linen, having been saturated with the above solution, is dried, and afterwards marked with the manganese solution. On the letters becoming dry, the following solution is spread over the spot with a brush : 4 parts carbonate of pot- ash, 10 parts water. The letters then become brown, and their color cannot be removed by alkalies, nor by acids, with the exception of dilute hydrochloric acid. 2514. Carbon Ink. Genuine Indian ink rubbed down with good black ink until it will flow easily from a pen. This ink resists chlor- ine, and oxalic acid. 2515. Indian or Chinese Ink. The pure article can only be obtained from China. A good imitation may be made with ivory black, ground to an impalpable powder, made into a paste with weak gum-arabic water, perfumed with a few drops of essence of niusk and half as much essence of ambergris, and then formed into cakes. (See No. 2716.) 2516. Perpetual Ink for Tombstones, &C. Equal parts of Trinidad asphaltum and oil of turpentine. Use in a melted state to fill in the letters and devices on tombstones, &c. "Without actual violence it will last as long as the stone. 2517. To Pulverize Gold and Silver Leaf. This is effected by grinding upon a porphyry slab, with a muller, gold or silver' leaves with white honey, until they are re- duced to the finest possible state of division. Then wash the honey thoroughly from the powdered metal and mix with gum water. (Sec also No. 25.) 2518. Liquid Gold, for Vellum, &c. Take gold leaf and grind it with gum water; then add a small quantity of bichloride of mercury, and bottle for use. 2519. Liquid Silver, for Vellum, &c. Take silver leaf and grind it with gurn- water or glaire of egg. 2520. Copying Ink. The virtue of copying ink consists in its non-drying pro- perty. This property may be given to any ordinary ink by the addition of sugar. Lately, however, glycerine has b'een substituted for sugar, and is decidedly to be preferred. A good copying ink may be made from common violet writing ink, by the addition of 6 parts glycerine to 8 parts of the ink. Using only 5 parts glycerine to 8 of the ink, it will copy well in fifteen minutes after it has been used. "With fine white copying paper the ink will copy well without the use of a press. 2521. Ink for Marking Packages. Take lampblack and mix thoroughly with suf- ficient turpentine to make it thin enough to flow from the brush. Powdered ultramarine, instead of lampblack, makes a fine blue mark- ing mixture for the same purpose. 2522. Ink for Marking Packages. An excellent and very cheap ink is made by mixing J ounce bichloride of potassa and 4 ounces extract of logwood in a stone jar or demijohn, with 2 gallons of hot water. Shake well and let it stand for about 2 weeks, shaking occasionally. 2523. Permanent Ink for Writing in Relief on Zinc. Bichloride of platinum, dry, 1 part; gum-arabic, 1 part; distilled wa- ter, 10 parts. The letters traced upon zinc with this solution turn black immediately. The black characters resist the action of weak acids, of rain, or of the elements in general, and the liquid is thus adapted for marking signs, labels, or tags which are liable to ex- posure. To bring out the letters in relief, immerse the zinc tag in a weak acid for a few moments. The writing is not attacked while the metal is dissolved away. 2524. Ink for Zinc Labels. Take 1 drachm of verdigris, 1 drachm sal ammoniac powder, and drachm lampblack, and mix them with 10 drachms water ; and this will form an indelible ink for writing on zinc. 2525. To Write on Silver with a Black that will Never Go Off. Take burnt lead and pulverize it. Incorporate it next with sulphur and vinegar, to the consist- ency of a paint, and write with it on any silver plate. Let it dry, then present it to the fire so as to heat the work a little, and it is completed. 2526. Indestructible Inks. Employed for writing the labels on bottles containing strong acids and alkaline solutions. They are capable of resisting the action of iodine, chlorine, alkaline lyes and acids, as well as operations of dyeing and bleaching, besides being an excellent and cheap material for marking linen, as nothing will remove them without destroying the fabric. 2527. Hausmann's Indestructible Ink. Mix 1 part genuine Trinidad asphaltum with 4 parts oil of turpentine ; color with a 236 INKS. sufficiency of plumbago, for black, or vermilion for red ink. 2528. Close's Indestructible Ink. Mix 25 grains powdered cobalt and '200 grains oil of lavender by a gentle heat ; color with 3 grains lampblack and 1 grain indigo, both in fine powder. If a red color is required, omit the lampblack and indigo and add sufficient vermilion to make the mixture a good color. 2529. Indestructible "Writing Ink. Shellac, 4 parts ; borax, 2 parts ; soft water, 36 parts ; boil in a close vessel till dissolved ; then filter, and take of gum-arabic, 2 parts ; soft water, 4 parts. Dissolve, and mix the two solutions together, and boil for 5 minutes as before, occasionally stirring to promote their union ; when cold, add a sufficient quan- tity of finely powdered indigo and lampblack to color ; lastly, let it stand for 2 or 3 hours, until the coarser powder has subsided, and bottle for use. Use this fluid with a clean pen, and keep it in glass or earthen inkstands, as many substances will decompose it while in the liquid state. "When dry it will resist the action of water, oil, turpentine, alcohol, diluted sulphuric acid, diluted hydrochloric acid, oxalic acid, chlorine, and the caustic alkalies and alkaline earths. 2530. Simple Carbon Ink. Dissolve 30 grains of sugar in 30 grains of water, to which add a few drops of concentrated sul- phuric acid. Upon heating this mixture the sugar becomes carbonized by the acid, and when applied to the paper it leaves a coating of carbon which cannot be washed off. This stain is rendered more perfect by the decom- posing action of the ink itself upon the paper, and thus resists the action of chemical agents. 2531. Drawing Ink. A very black and indelible drawing ink may be made by dissolving shellac in a hot water solution of borax, and rubbing up in this solution a fine quality of Indian ink. After using, dip the drawing pen in alcohol, and wipe dry to keep it clean and bright. (See No. 2514.) 2532. Permanent Ink for Use with Stamps or Type. Mix equal parts black oxide of manganese and hydrate of potash, heat to redness, and rub with an equal quan- tity of smooth white clay into a paste, water being added for the purpose. Or : Sulphate of manganese, 2 drachms; lampblack, 1 drachm ; powdered loaf sugar, 4 drachms ; rubbed into paste with water. After stamp- ing, dry the linen and wash well in water. 2533. Sympathetic, or Invisible Inks, for Secret Writing. These are colorless inks which require the aid of heat or some other agency to develop the characters written with them. Their use has been rendered specially practical since the recent introduc- tion of the postal correspondence cards in England and elsewhere. By previous ar- rangement between correspondents, the re- ceiver of a card only needs some visible sign on the card to identify the writer or sender ; this will at once suggest the means to be em- ployed to develop the particular ink the re- ceiver's correspondent has agreed to use. 2534. Black Sympathetic Inks. "Writing with a solution of sugar of lead will be turned black by moistening the paper with sulphide of potassium. If nitrate of silver be used, the writing will become black by dipping the paper in a solu- tion of ammonia. Chloride of mercury will turn black when wetted with chloride of tin. A weak infusion of galls is turned black by sulphate of iron (copperas). Reversing the above, writing with copperas turns black by moistening with infusion of galls. 2535. Blue Sympathetic Inks. "Writing with copperas turns blue if wetted with a solution of prussiate of potassa. Nitrate of cobalt turns blue on being wetted with a weak solution of oxalic acid. Bice water or a solution of boiled starch turns blue in a solution of iodine in weak spirit. 2536. Brown Sympathetic Ink. A diluted solution of nitrate of silver turns brown by exposure to the sunlight. 2537. Yellow Sympathetic Ink. Chloride of antimony, used as the ink, will be- come yellow by moistening with a decoction of galls. 2538. Green Sympathetic Ink. Ar- seniate of copper, washed over with nitrate of copper, turns a beautiful green. 2539. Purple Sympathetic Ink. Purple is produced by using chloride of gold, and soaking in chloride of tin. 2540. Sympathetic Inks Developed by Heat. There are a number of colorless substances that may be used as inks, which are developed by the application of heat only. Sulphate of copper and sal ammoniac, mixed in equal parts, will become yellow if exposed to the fire. Onion juice has the same property as the above mixture. Lemon juice, a very weak solution of either aquafortis, oil of vitriol, common salt, 'or salt- petre, will turn yellow or brown on exposure to the fire. A weak solution of chloride of cobalt and chloride of nickel is turned a beautiful green by heat. A solution of chloride or nitro-muriate of cobalt, turns green when heated, and disap- pears again on cooling. A dilute solution of chloride of copper be- comes a fine yellow at a moderate heat, and disappears on cooling. A solution of acetate of cobalt, with a little nitrate added to it, turns rose-colored by heat, and disappears again when cold. These last, which disappear again on cool- ing, are the best sympathetic inks for pur- poses of correspondence, as the others are more or less indelible when once developed. 2541 . Hoe's Composition for Printing Ink Hollers. This consists of glue and mo- lasses, the proportions varying from 8 pounds of glue in summer to 4 pounds in winter, for each gallon of molasses. The glue should bo placed for -J an hour in a bucket, covered with water, then pour the water off and allow the glue to soften. Put it into a kettle and heat it until thoroughly melted ; if too thick, a little water may be added. Lastly, the mo- lasses is stirred in and well mixed with the glue. "When properly prepared, an hour's boiling will be sufficient, as too much boiling is apt to candy the molasses. Pour into a clean mould well oiled with a swab. ANILINE COLORS. 237 2542. To Clean Ink Hollers. Roller should not be washed immediately after use, as they will become dry and skinny, but they may be washed i hour before using again. In cleaning a new roller, a little oil rubbed over it will loosen the ink, and it should be scraped clean with the back of a knife ; it should be cleaned this way for about a week, when lye may be used. N"ew rollers are often spoiled by washing too soon with lye. 2543. Black Printing Ink. Boil gallons old clear linseed oil to the consistence of a thick varnish ; whilst hot, add to it, dur- ing constant stirring, first 6 pounds powdered resin, and next If pounds dry brown soap shavings ; then mix in it 2J- ounces indigo blue, 2 ounces Paris blue, and 5 pounds best lampblack. After standing for a week it should be ground. 2544. Black or Colored Printing Ink. Balsam copaiba, 9 ounces ; lampblack, 3 oun- ces; Paris blue, 1J- ounces; Indian red, | ounoo ; dry resin soap, 3 ounces. These will produce a superior black ink. By employing white soap instead of yellow, and a sufficiency of some coloring pigment instead of the black, blue, and red mixture, a good colored ink will be obtained. 2545. New Ink for Printers. A new ink for printers has been invented by Professor Artus, and Mr. Fleckstein, a master-printer at Lichtenhain, which ink is said to be a com- plete success. The composition of it is as follows: Tenetian turpentine, 4 ounces; fluid soap, 5 ounces; rectified oleine, 2 ounces; burnt soot, 3 ounces ; Paris blue (ferrocyanic acid), -J ounce; oxalic acid, ounce; distilled water, i ounce. The mixing process of this new, beautiful, and cheap ink is described as follows : Gradually warm the turpentine and the oleine together ; put the soap on a marble plate, and gradually add, continually rubbing, the mixture of turpentine and oleine ; when well mixed, add the burnt soot, which must first be well powdered and sifted; then add the Paris blue, dissolved in the oxalic acid, con- tinually rubbing the composition on the stone, the Paris blue and the oxalic acid having been mixed before with water in the above given proportions. A solution of soda in water is sufficient to thoroughly cleanse the type. 2546. Indelible Printing Ink. Mix 1 pound varnish (such as is used for ordinary printing ink), 1 pound black sulphuret of mercury, 1 ounce nitrate of silver, 1 ounce sulphate of iron, 2 table-spoonfuls lampblack. Thoroughly grind together, adding enough turpentine to reduce to the requisite consist- ency. 2547. Lithographic Ink. Grind to- gether 8 parts mastich, in tears, and 12 parts shellac ; dissolve carefully by heat in 1 part Venice turpentine ; after the mixture is taken from the fire, mix in 16 parts wax and 6 parts tallow; then add, by stirring, 6 parts hard tal- low soap in shavings, and finally incorporate in the mass 4 parts lampblack. Heat and stir until thoroughly mixed; let it cool a little, and pour it out on tables, and when cold, cut into square rods. 2548. Lithographic Transfer Ink. Melt together 8 parts white wax and 2 parts white soap ; and, before they become hot enough to take fire, stir in by degrees suffi- cient lampblack to make the mixture black ; then allow the whole to burn for 30 seconds ; when the flame is extinguished, add, a little at a time, 2 parts shellac, stirring it in con- stantly ; put the vessel on the fire again until the mass is kindled, or nearly so. Put out the flame and allow it to cool a little, and then run it into the moulds. Ink thus made will make as fine or coarse lines as are desired, and its traces will remain unchanged for years before being transferred. When suet enters into the composition of lithographic crayons, it does not keep long, and requires immediate trans- ferring to the stone. 2549. Lithographic Ink. M. Lasteyrie states that, after having tried a great many combinations, he gives the preference to the following: Dry tallow soap, mastich in tears, and common soda in fine powder, of each 30 parts; shellac, 150 parts; lampblack, 12 parts; mix as last. Used for writing on lithographic stones. 2550. To Test the Quality of Litho- graphic Ink. Lithographic ink of good quality ought to be susceptible of forming an emulsion so attenuated that it may appear to be dissolved when rubbed upon a hard body in distilled or river water. It should be flow- ing in the pen, not spreading on the stone ; capable of forming delicate traces, and very black, to show its delineations. The most es- sential quality of the ink is to sink well 'into the stone, so as to reproduce the most delicate outlines of the drawing, and to afford a great many impressions. It must, therefore, be able to resist the acid with which the stone is moistened in the preparation, without letting any of its greasy matter escape. 2551. Durable Autographic Ink. "White wax, 8 ounces ; and white soap, 2 to 3 ounces; melt; when well combined add lamp- black, 1 ounce; mix well, and heat it strongly; then add shellac, 2 ounces; again heat it strongly ; stir well together, cool a little, and pour it out. With this ink lines may be drawn of the finest to the fullest class with- out danger of its spreading, and the copy may be kept for years before being transferred. This mk is employed for writing on litho- graphic paper, and is prepared for use by rub- bing down with a little water in a saucer, in the same way as common water-color cakes or Indian ink. In winter this should be done near a fire, or the saucer should be placed over a basin containing a little warm water. It may then be used with either a steel pen or a camel's-hair pencil. Aniline Colors. Aniline is a JC\_ liquid of a color varying from yellow to dark brown. The commercial article is never chemically pure, being a mixture of pure ani- line, toluidine, and odorine. Its boiling point ranges from 356 to 482 Fahr. If aniline boils at a lower temperature than 356, it contains too much /odorine, and is, therefore, of poor quality. It is obtained by conversion from uitro-benzole, a preparation of the benzole ob- tained from coal tar (not from petroleum). In preparing nitro-benzole on a large scale, 12 238 ANILINE COLORS. parts benzole are mixed with 13 parts fuming nitric acid, and 8 parts oil of vitriol, in a cast iron apparatus. The character of the product depends greatly on the purity of the benzole, and also on the management of the reaction. The conversion of nitro-benzole into aniline is, by Be"champs' process, performed in iron tanks, heated by steam, and provided with stirrers, and a still-head to collect the distillates. The tank or still is charged with 100 parts nitro- benzole, 150 clean wrought iron filings, 100 water, and 150 acetic acid; when these are mixed spontaneous heat is evolved, which causes some of the liquid to pass into the con- densers, whence it is returned to the tank. As the heat is not sufficient for the complete conversion of the nitro-benzole, steam is intro- duced after a time, and the stirring and steam- ing is continued until no more nitro-benzole appears in the distilled vapor. At this point the temperature is increased, and, if necessary, aided by direct fire, to cause complete distilla- tion of the aniline which has formed, and which passes off with water, and separates from it on standing, as the heavier stratum. The aniline used for the various colors is taken of different composition and boiling-point. A. W. Hof- mann has shown that a mixture of an equiva- lent of aniline and two of toluidine produces the largest yield of rosaniline (fuchsine). The substance used for this manufacture begins to boil at about 347, and as the heat increases to 390 80 per cent, will have distilled over. Aniline blue and purple require an oil which begins to boil at 374, and at 392 haslostonly 60 per cent. Evidently with these properties it contains less aniline than the preceding one. The changes which these bases undergo when converted into dyes or compounds of rosani- line, are brought about by the partial destruc- tion of a portion of them. 2553. Rosaniline, or Fuchsine. The principal methods for the manufacture of fuch- sine employ arsenic acid, the reaction being brought about in a cast iron still with mova- ble head, connected with a condenser, and provided with a manhole, and also a place for a thermometer. This still sits in a jacket con- taining a hot bath of palm-oil, which keeps it at a temperature of from 320 to 356 Fahr. A charge consists of 100 parts aniline and 200 parts arsenic acid, and the reaction is ordina- rily completed in about 6 hours, sometimes in 5, but at others only in 12 hours, during which time the temperature is carefully regulated. Assays are taken from time to time, and the completion of the process is known by the pure bronze color of the sample. The fused mass is transferred to a tank, in which, after cooling, it is broken up, and at once treated with water and steam. The base fuchsine (rosaniline) dissolves, leaving behind the resin- ous products of the reaction ; the arsenic acid is separated by the addition of milk of lime. The filtered solution, after proper concentration, deposits, on cooling, fine crystals of fuchsine, as do also the first mother liquors. An infe- rior quality of fuchsine is obtained by adding a portion of salt, varying in quantity. 2554. Aniline Blue. Aniline blue re- sults from various processes. The one most commonly used at present is that of Girard and De Laire, made by heating fuchsine with fluid aniline. The original process produced a blue with a reddish tinge ; but by the addition of some organic substances, acetic acid, and me- thylic alcohol, pure blue is obtained. It is dis- tinguished from all other blues by not appear- ing green in candle light. The various shades of purple to blue and violet a r e made from fuchsine by Hofmann's method (see No. 2608), heating 1 part fuchsine and 2 iodide of ethyl with 2 parts alcohol in a closed vessel at 212 for variable lengths of time ; the blue re- sulting from longest exposure. 2555. Aniline Green. Aniline green is produced from a solution of sulphate of rosani- line in dilute sulphuric acid and some alde- hyde, which is heated till its color has changed to dark green. Addition of a solution of hy- posulphite of soda separates the color. 2556. Aniline Green. Several of the aniline greens occurring in the market are apt to undergo spontaneous destruction, some- times in less than a day. The following is a formula which any one may make : 4 parts of pure fuchsine or rosaniline are dissolved in 6 parts water and 16 parts aldehyde (see next receipt), and are heated at 212 Fahr., until a drop of the mixture imparts to water acidula- ted slightly with sulphuric acid a clear blue color, when it is ready to be poured into aboil- ing solution of hyposulphite of soda, which is being stirred. A fine green precipitate forms, and a grayish one, which latter must be kept separate. The green is mordanted principally with acetate of alumina. 2557. To Prepare Aldehyde. Alde- hyde is made by filling a tubulated glass re- tort, altogether to one-third full, with 32 parts absolute alcohol, 30 parts bichromate of po- tassa, and, without previous cooling, a mixture of 35 parts oil of vitriol, and 30 of water, in small portions, through a safety-tube in tbe tubus. After one-half of the latter has been intro- duced, the rnixture commences to boil and al- dehyde begins to distill over, the remainder of the said mixture being added through the tubulus as required. No further purification is needed. 2558. To Make Aniline Colors Solu- ble in Water. The aniline colors insoluble in water may, according to Dr. Zinsman, be rendered soluble in the following way: A solution of gelatine in acetic acid of about the consistence of syrup is first made, and the aniline color in fine powder is gradually added, stirring all the time so as to obtain a homo- geneous paste. The mixture is then to be heat- ed over a water-bath to the temperature of boiling water, and kept at that heat for some time. Colors in this state, if a very clear gel- atine is employed, will be applicable to many decorative purposes. Bookbinders, paper- stainers, and printers will find them useful. They may also, it is said, be used to color con- fectionery and soaps. Before they are used for confectionery, however, it will be well to make sure that no arsenic is present. 2559. Injurious Effects of Impure Alcohol upon Aniline Colors. Dr. Till- manns has examined several varieties of al- cohol, and tested the effects upon aniline colors. -The most sensitive among these, for impure alcohol, is aniline purple (phenyl- rosaniline). It appears that cmpyreumatic substances, aldehyde, the peculiar fusel oils due to the substances used in the manufacture of ANILINE COLORS. 239 the alcohol, affect the aniline colors when dis- solved in such alcohols and boiled therewith. The best test for the purity of an alcohol is to dissolve in it 1 per cent, of perfectly pure caustic potassa, and to heat the solution; it should only acquire a bright yellow color. Another test is to dissolve 1 part of the aniline Eurple alluded to in 50 parts of the alcohol to e tested, and to heat the fluid for some time. If, after half an hour's heating, no change is observed, the quality of the alcohol is good; but if the latter is not pure enough, the mix- ture soon becomes turbid, and assumes a red color. Another test is to make two solution of the color of the same strength (1 in 50), one with alcohol of known purity, and the other with the suspected alcohol, and then compare the intensity and shade of the solutions. Al- dehyde is often present in alcohol, especially if it has been purified by means of charcoal. 2560. To Test the Quality of Aniline Colors. A good and practical way of testing the merits of aniline colors is to have, and keep on hand, a standard and measure of com- parison, a sample whose value and coloring power hag been ascertained by actual practice. If a new supply of dye stuff is to be tested, weigh out equal quantities of the standard col- oring matter and of the one to be tested (say 10 to 30 grains); dissolve them, using the same quantity of alcohol and water, in vessels of as nearly as possible equal size; intro- duce in each an equal quantity of white wool ; place them on a water bath; raise the temperature gradually, and after sufficient time has elapsed, take the two pieces out, dry them carefully, and compare them. That which has been dyed with the best dye, will, of course, show the fullest, brightest, and clearest color. Instead of testing on skeins of wool, Mr. Shuttleworth recommends small squares of white merino or cashmere, as af- fording a more even surface, and a greater mass of color. A known weight of the dye should be dissolved in alcohol and added to the bath of warm water, with the necessary mordants. A square of cloth of known weight say 10 grains is immersed in the bath, and, after a stated time, removed. The strength and shade of the color can thus be compared with previous samples, dyed under like condi- tions. It is a good plan to paste these squares, by one edge, in a blank book, noting anything worthy of remark on the margin. The colors are thus preserved from the action of the light, and will be found very useful for reference. 2561. Test for Sugar in Aniline Dyes. Aniline blue and aniline green have been found adulterated with a considerable quantity of sugar. Mr. Joly, of Brussels, has also found this to be the case with red aniline colors, such as fuchsine, rubine, &c., the adul- teration amounting in some cases to as much as 50 per cent. The amount of sugar present can be ascertained by treating a sample of the suspected dye with absolute alcohol ; or, still better, with a mixture of alcohol and ether ; the sugar will remain undissolved. 2562. To Remove Sugar from Ani- line Dyes. If it be found by the test given in No. 2561, that an aniline color has been adulterated with sugar, this may be removed by repeatedly washing the color with cold water, which will dissolve the sugar. 2563. General Directions for the TJse of Aniline Dyes. It is impossible to u;.:c any dye, successfully, without due regard to cleanliness. This is, perhaps, more particu- larly the case with the anilines. The slightest trace of a foreign substance will often mate- rially alter the shade. Earthen or enameled vessels should be used whenever practicable. Iron is generally to be avoided, if for no other reason than that it is difficult to say when it is really clean. Woolen and silken goods, before being dyed, should be thoroughly washed in soap and water, and then carefully rinsed in clean rain water. Cotton requires a previous mordanting before it can be dyed with anilines, as vegetable fibre possesses no affinity for the colors. The preparation gen- erally consists in treatment by sumac, or stannate of soda, and subsequently by sul- phuric acid ; special directions will be given in those cases requiring particular treatment. Old fabrics which were dyed before, may be freed from color by previous boiling for an hour in strong soapsuds. The spirit used should be pure, and especially free from alde- hyde ; methyl spirit does not appear to injure some of the dyes: Spirit containing shellac turns roseiue of a bluish color. 2564. To Distinguish Aniline from Other Dyes. Aniline colors, for dyeing pur- poses, are now used to such an extent through- out the country as almost to exclude all others, on account of their brilliancy and cheapness. They are, however, liable to lose in appearance by bright sunlight, and in lustre by the arti- ficial light of gas or candles. It is, therefore, desirable to have a ready means by which they can be recognized. This is all the more necessary, as arsenic acid is generally em- ployed in their preparation ; and a cloth that has been dyed with an aniline color containing it may have absorbed a considerable quantity of that dangerous article. The readiest way for its detection is to boil the flannel, or what- ever other cloth it may be, with a solution of caustic soda or potassa, and, after filtering the fluid from the residue, neutralizing it with hydrochloric acid. If the cloth has been dyed with an aniline color, the fluid will show a coloration. Most of the aniline dyes may also be extracted by boiling alcohol, which process, perhaps, can be performed in less time than the other. 2565. To Remove Aniline Colors. There are various ways proposed to remove aniline colors, the following being the simplest and most practical. Goods dyed with aniline colors may easily be rendered white by the use of zinc gray; the metallic zinc contained in this powder reduces the colors, forming soluble colorless products. To apply the principle, triturate 100 grains zinc gray with 50 grains mucilage marking 20 Baurn6, until the mixture is homogeneous ; incorporate with this 20 grains of a solution of hyposul- phite of soda marking 20 Baum6, apply this mixture directly to the goods, let it dry and vaporize. After this operation it is best to wash the goods with water slightly acidulated with hydrochloric acid. Cotton goods may be bleached by chlorine or bleaching liquor, but this is not applicable to other than cotton fabrics. Another simple method consists in digest- ANILINE COLOES ing the fabrics for a sufficient length of time in 90 per cent, alcohol, which usually com- pletes the decolorization in a short space of time. The same alcohol can be used several times in succession, and can afterward be puri- fied by rectification or redistillation, so as to involve but little loss. The work is best done in a well-covered copper kettle, which is to be set in boiling water. A little hydrochloric acid may be added if the articles are not too delicate, thereby increasing the solubility of the aniline colors. If all other methods fail, cyanide of po- tassium is absolutely certain. A stone vessel is to be selected, in which a small quantity of cyanide of potassium is to be introduced, and solved until the solution shows 2 Bamn6 ; for the wool the mordanting bath should be at a boiling heat, and the goods should also be placed in a warm bath of tannin 90 Fahr. for half an hour. In dyeing, a hot solution of the color must be used, to which should be added, in the case of the cotton, some chloride of zinc, and, in the case of the wool, a certain amount of tannin solution. 2569. Cotton. To Dye Aniline Opal Blue on To mordant the aniline color known as opal blue upon cotton it is recommended to rinse the goods, after bleaching, in a dilute solution of soda crystals, to neutralize the acid of bleaching, then to pass them into a hot water poured upon it, so as to make a so- lution of 1 to 1 Baume. The whole is to be stirred well with a long and strong glass 2 hot bath of soap, in which oil exists in emul- " sion in these proportions: "Water, 100 liters (211 pints); soap, 8 kilos (21 pounds troy); oil, " rod, and the operation conducted in the open air, so that no harm may result from the con- densation of the vapor. The fabric in question, previously well cleaned, is now placed in the vessel, and pushed under the liquid with the glass rod, and the top of the vessel laid on. It is advisable to keep the solution warm, by immersing the stone vessel in a wooden tub properly supplied with steam or hot water. kilos (5 pounds troy). "Wring them out, dry, and pass them into a solution of acetate of alumina of about 4 or 5 Baum6, wring out, dry, and rinse in hot water. Finally dye in a solution of opal blue to which acetic acid has been added. The temperature of the dye bath should be 75 to 90 Fahr. Binse and dry. 2570. Difficulty in Dyeing Cotton with Aniline. This difficulty consists in the ir- After a short time the lid should be removed [ regularity of intensity of color when the ani- by taking it off at the end of a long handle, allowing the vapors to pass off before the operator comes near. By means of the glass rod the cloth is to be lifted, and if not entirely white, is to be replaced and the process con- line colors are applied. This effect is attri- buted to the unequal oxidation of the tin salts applied before dipping the goods into the dye bath ; in using these colors, avoid the use of the tin salts, which have little or no beneficial tinned still longer. "When finished the cloth | effect on the results in any case ; and dip the is to be transferred by means of the glass rod to a large vessel containing hot water, and stirred around for a time, then removed and rinsed off. The solution of the cyanide of Eotassium can be used several times without >sing its power. Cyanide of potassium is a deadly poison ; contact with any sore or cut is extremely dangerous, and inhaling its va- por is sudden death. 2566. To Remove Stains of Aniline from the Hands. The best way to remove such stains from the hands is to either wash them with strong alcohol, or what perhaps is more effectual, to wash them with a little bleaching powder, and finally with alcohol. 2567. Phosphate of Lime as a Mor- dant. A rather thick syrupy solution of phos- phate of lime (bone-ash) in hydrochloric acid having been recently recommended as a mor- dant to be used after a previous sumaching of the goods, Dr. Reimann states that, accord- ing to his researches, the phosphate of lime solution is altogether superfluous for aniline dyes, since a sumaching with 4 pounds sumach to 20 pounds cotton is of itself a sufficient mordanting to fix aniline colors ex- cellently. The application of the phosphate of lime solution as a mordant for cochineal colors upon cotton he also considers as quite New Mordant Applicable to useless. 2568. Aniline Colors. For this purpose the oxide of zinc, in accordance with a patent taken out in France by MM. Biot and Thisau, may be used for mordanting aniline blue upon cotton, or the iodine green upon wool. The mordant- ing is effected by simply immersing the goods for some hours in a bath of cold water, in which chloride or acetate of zinc has been dis- goods into the dye bath, after treating with infusion of nut-galls or sumach. If tin must be used, the best salt of that metal is the bi- chloride. 2571. Aniline Black. "When a salt of aniline in solution is exposed to the action of certain oxydizers, as salts of copper, chlorate, and bichromate of potassa, it yields a black dye, of such depth that ordinary gall or madder blacks appear gray or green in comparison. The fastness of this color, its resistance to the action of acids, alkalies, soaps, and sunlight, render it of great import- ance to manufacturers, and make it one of the great achievements of late years. 2572. Aniline Black for Dyeing. According to Mr. Kochliu, aniline black is produced as follpws : "Water, 20 to 30 parts ; chlorate of potassa, 1 part; sal ammoniac, 1 part; chloride of copper, 1 part; aniline, hy- drochloric acid, mixed together. of each 1 part, previously Several other formulae for ly- sly producing aniline blacks have been devised for dyeing purposes. It is essential in each of them, and always, that the preparation shall be acid, and the more acid it is, the more rapid is the production of the blacks. The action, of course, if it be excessive, will be likely to injure the fibre of the fabric. 2573. Aniline Black on Wool. For 2 pounds of wool, a bath is prepared of "20 quarts water, 3 ounces permanganate of potassa, 4J ounces sulphate of magnesia. The use of sulphate of magnesia has for its object, to prevent the formation of caustic alkali, and has already been proposed by Tessio du Mothay. The wool is impregnated with this solution, and left in it until the fluid has become colorless, or nearly so, whereby it ANILINE COLORS. 24:1 is colored dark-brown and covered with brown oxide of manganese. This process takes place easily in the cold, but it is best to dissolve the permanganate in hot water. The wool is now pressed out, and, without washing, con- veyed into a bath of 12 ounces commercial aniline oil, 21 ounces commercial hydrochloric acid, and 8 quarts water, where it is moved about in the cold ; it attains here directly a dark green-black color. It is pressed out again, washed in water containing a little soda, and treated with a weak solution of i ounce bichromate of potassa in 10 quarts water. The color becomes now dark black, when the wool is washed with water and dried. 2574. Persoz's Aniline Black for Wool or Silk. Steep the silk or wool for 1 hour at a boiling heat, in a bath consisting of 5 grammes (77 grains) bichromate of potassa, 3 grammes (46 grains) sulphate of copper, and 2 grammes (31 grains) oil of vitriol, for each litre (2^ pints) of water used. It is then thoroughly washed, and afterward passed through a solotion of oxalate of aniline mark- ing 1 to 2 Baum6, in which it at once as- sumes a black color. In case the fabric con- tains a vegetable fibre, the first bath must be replaced by a series of baths resulting in chromate of lead. This is effected by succes- sive passages through a solution of nitrate or acetate of lead, then through a hot one of sulphate of soda; and lastly through a cold bath of from 5 to 20 grammes (77 to 300 grains) bichromate of potash to the litre (2-tV pints) of water. 2575. To Prepare Magenta for Dye- ing. This color, which is also called rosein, fuchsine, and aniline red, is the best known of the series. It is better adapted for the pre- paration of a liquid dye than any other. In the hands of the amateur it can be used with economy, and the results obtained are gener- ally satisfactory. It is readily soluble in alco- hol, and to some extent in water. The latter property is taken advantage of by dyers, the dye bath being prepared directly from the crystals. It is, however, preferable to use alcohol for dissolving the color, as the solu- bility in water is not always the same with different samples. To 1 pound of. the crystals add 2 gallons of spirit .8200 specific gravity. The solution may be conveniently made in an ordinary 5-gallon tin. Agitate frequently, and add 2 gallons of hot water. This pro- duct will be suitable for sale as a liquid dye, but for dyers' use, where a large quantity of water is admissable, 1 gallons of spirit will be found sufficient. It is sometimes necessary to filter before using. 2576. To Dye Silk or Wool Magenta. Sufficient water to cover, without difficulty, the fabric to be dyed, is brought to a temper- ature of about 170 Fahr. ; a sufficient quan- tity of the dye is added, and followed by the immersion of the goods, which should be moved about to prevent streaks. About half an hour's immersion is sufficient. Half an ounce of the crystals should give a fair shade to 10 pounds of wool. A bath of soap-suds is sometimes employed instead of water, and by the use of alkali, brighter, but perhaps less permanent colors are produced. Acids render the shade dull and bluish. 2577. To Dye Cotton Magenta. Place the cotton in a bath of sumach (1 pound sumach to 10 pounds cotton) for 2 hours. Wring out, and dye in the same manner as wool. (See previous receipt.) A brighter shade is given by dissolving ounce soap in hot water, letting the solution cool to 90, adding 2 ounces olive oil, and mixing with tepid water. In this 5 pounds of cotton may be worked for about 5 minutes. A bath con- taining i pound sumach and 1 ounce tin crystals is next prepared, through which the cotton should be passed, wrung out, and finally dyed in a bath of magenta and pure water. 2578. Aniline Cerise and Safranine. These colors resemble magenta in appearance, and appear to be varieties of that substance. They are readily soluble in alcohol, and more or less so in water. The colors produced are similar to those obtained from safnower, but possess greater vivacity and permanence. The shades are exceedingly delicate and beautiful, inclining to pink with a shade of yellow. The dye bath is prepared, and the fabric dyed, in the same manner as magenta. (See Nos. 2575, othly. Expensive brushes, made express- ly for kalsomiuing, may bo obtained at brush faatories, and at soma drug and hardware store?. But a good whitewash-brush, having long and thick hair, will do very well. In case t!i3 liquid is so thick that it will not flow from tho brush so as to make smooth work, aid a little more hot water. "When applying tho kalsomiue, stir it frequently. Dip the brush often, and only so deep in the liquid as to take as much a 5 the hair will retain with- out letting larga drop , fall to the floor If too much g!u3 ba added, the kalsomiue cannot be laid on smoothly, and will be liable to Track. The aim should bo to apply a thin layer of siz- ing that cannot be brushed off with a broom or dry cloth. A thin coat will not crack. 2796. Whitewash for Out-Door Use. Take a clean water-tight barrel, or other suit- able cask, and put into it bushel lime. Slack it by pouring boiling water over it, and in sufficient quantity to cover 5 inches deep, stirring it briskly till thoroughly slacked. When slacking has been effected, dissolve in water and add 2 pounds sulphate of zinc and 1 of common salt. These will cause the wash to harden and prevent it from cracking, which gives an unseemly appearance to the work. If desirable, a beautiful cream color may be communicated to the above wash, by adding 3 pounds yellow ochre. This wash may be applied with a common whitewash-brush, and will be found much superior, both in appear- ance and durability, to common whitewash. 2797. Treasury Department White- wash. This receipt for whitewashing, sent out by the Lighthouse Board of the Treasury Department, lias been found, by experience, to answer on wood, brick and stone, nearly as well as oil paint, and is much cheaper. Slack i bushel unslacked lime "with boiling water, keeping it covered during the process. Strain it, and add a peck of salt, dissolved in warm water; 3 pounds ground rice put in boiling water, and boiled to a thin paste; i pound powdered Spanish whiting, and a pound of clear glue, dissolved in warm water; mix these well together, and let the mixture stand for several days. Keep the wash thus pre- pared in a kettle or portable furnace, and, when used, put it on as hot as possible, with painters' or whitewash-brushes. 2798. To Color Whitewash. Coloring matter may be put in and made of any shade. Spanish brown stirred in will make red pink, more or less deep according to the quantity. A delicate tinge of this is very pretty for in- side walls. Finely pulverized common clay, well mixed with Spanish brown, make a red- dish stone color. Yellow ochre stirred in makes yellow wash, but chrome goes further, and makes a color generally esteemed prettier. In all these cases the darkness of the shades of course is determined by the quantity of coloring used. It is difficult to make rules, because tastes are different ; it would be best to try experiments on a shingle and let it dry. Green must not be mixed with lime. The lime destroys the color, and the color has an effect on tho whitewash, which makes it crack and peel. "When walls have been badly smoked, and you wish to have them a clean white, it is well to squeeze indigo plentifully through a bag into the water you use, before it is stirred in the whole mixture. 2799. Zinc Whitewash. Mix oxide of zinc with common size, and apply it with a whitewash-brush to the ceiling. After this, apply in the same manner a wash of chloride of zinc, which will combine with the oxide to form a smooth cement with a shining sur- face. 2800. A Fine Whitewash for Walls. Soak i pound of glue over night in tepid wa- ter. The next day put it into a tin vessel with a quart of water, set the vessel in a kettle of water over a fire, keep it there till it boil, and then stir until the glue is dissolv- ed, ^ext put from 6 to 8 pounds Paris white 258 PAPER HANGING. into another vessel, add hot water, and stir until it has the appearance of milk of lime. Add the sizing, stir well, and apply in the or- dinary way, while still warm. Except on very dark and smoky walls and ceilings, a single coat is sufficient. It is nearly equal in brilliancy to zinc-white (a far more expensive article), and is very highly recommended by those who have used it. Paris white is sul- phate of baryta, and may be found at any drug or paint store. 2801. Fire-Proof Whitewash. Make ordinary whitewash and add 1 part silicate of soda (or potash) to every 5 parts of the white- wash.- (See No. 2816.) 2802. Whitewash for Outside Work. Take of good quicklime a bushel, slack in the usual manner and add 1 pound common salt, pound sulphate of zinc (white vitriol), and 1 gallon sweet milk. The salt and the white vitriol should be dissolved before they are added, when the whole should be thor- oughly mixed with sufficient water to give the proper consistency. The sooner the mixture is then applied the better. 2803. Whitewash for Fences or Out- Buildings. Slack the lime in boiling water, and to 3 gallons ordinary whitewash add 1 pint molasses and 1 pint table salt. Stir the mxiture frequently while putting it on. Two thin coats are sufficient. 2804. To Mix Whitewash. Pour boil- ing water on unslacked lime, and stir it occa- sionally while it is slacking, as it will make the paste smoother. To 1 peck of lime add a quart of salt and ounce of indigo dis- solved in water, or the same quantity of Prussian blue finely powdered; add water to make it the proper thickness to put on a wall. 1 pound soap will give gloss. 2805. To Keep Whitewash. Keep the lime covered with water and in a tub which has a cover, to prevent dust or dirt from falling in. If the water evaporates the lime is useless, but if kept covered it will be good as long as any remains. 2806. To Whiten Smoked Walls. A method of cleaning and whitening smoked walls consists, in the first place, of rubbing off all the black, loose dirt upon them, by means of a broom, and then washing them down with a strong soda lye, which is to be afterward removed by means of water to which a little hydrochloric acid has been added. "When the walls are dry a thin coat- ing of lime, with the addition of a solution of alum, is to be applied. After this has be- come perfectly dry the walls are to be kalso- mined or coated with a solution of glue and chalk. 2807. To Color, and Prevent White- wash Rubbing Off. Alum is one of the best additions to make whitewash of lime which will not rub off. When powdered chalk is used glue water is also good, but would not do for outside work exposed to much rain. Nothing is easier than to give it any desired color by small quantities of lamp- black, brown sienna, ochre, or other coloring material. 2808. To Paper Whitewashed Walls. The following method is simple, sure, and in- expensive: Make flour starch as you would for starching calico clothes, aud, with a white- wash-brush, wet the wall you wish to paper, with the starch ; let it dry ; then, when you wish to apply the paper, wet the wall and paper both with the starch, and apply the pa- per. "Walls have been papered in this way that have been whitewashed 10 or even 20 years successively, and the paper has never failed to stick. "WTien you wish to re-paper the wall, with the brush wet the paper with clear water, and it will come off readily. (See No. 2811.) 2809. Bed Wash for Bricks. To re- move the green that gathers on bricks, pour over the bricks boiling water in which any vegetables (not greasy) have been boiled. Do this for a few days successively, and the green will disappear. For the red wash melt 1 ounce of glue in a gallon of water ; while hot, put in a piece of alum the size of an egg, J pound Venetian red, and 1 pound Spanish brown. Try a little on the bricks, let it dry, and if too light add more red and brown ; if too dark, put in more water. This receipt was contributed by a person who has used it for 20 years with perfect success. Paper Hanging, in cities, this is either a trade by itself, or is carried on as an adjunct to the painter's trade. In rural districts, however, there are many housekeepers who do this work for them- selves. The following receipts are given for the guidance of housekeepers. 2811. To Prepare a Wall for Paper- ing. A new unwhitewashed wall will ab- sorb the paste so rapidly that, before* drying, there will be left too little body of paste on the surface to hold the paper. A coating of good glue size, made by dissolving i pound of glue in a gallon of water (see No. 2815), or a coating of good paste, put on and allowed to dry before the paper is hung, will provide for this difficulty. If the wall be white- washed, it should be scratched with a stiff brush, to remove every particle of loose lime from the surface; after which it should be thoroughly swept down with a broom, and coated with the glue size or thin paste. (See No. 2808.) 2812. Utensils for Paper Hanging. A long table of thin boards cleated together and placed on wooden horses, such as are used by carpenters, a pair of sharp shears with long blades, if possible a whitewash- brush, a pail for paste, and a yard of cotton cloth, are the implements required. The table or board platform should be level on its upper surface to facilitate the distribution of the paste. The latter should be free from lumps, and should be laid on as evenly as possible. It should be made of good sweet rye or wheat flour, beaten smooth in cold wa- ter before boiling, and should not be allowed to boil more than a minute or two, but should be raised to the boiling point slowly, being continually stirred till it is taken from the fire. (See No. 2272.) 2813. To Prepare Paper for Hang- ing. Inexpert hands often find difficulty in hanging the lengths of paper so as to make the patterns match. Fo general directions SOLUBLE GLASS. 259 can be given for this, but a little study at the outset will often save cutting to waste, and other difficulties. In this matter, as in others, it is wise to " first be sure you are right, then go ahead." As soon as the proper way to cut the paper is decided upon, a whole roll, or more, may be cut at once, and the pieces laid, printed side downwards, upon the table, weights being placed upon the ends to prevent curling. The paste should then be applied to the back of the uppermost piece, as expe- ditiously as possible, as the longer the time employed in this part of the operation, the more tender will the paper get, and the more difficult it will be to hang it properly. About one-quarter of the length should be turned up at the bottom of the strip before hanging ; as, without this, the bottom is apt to stick to the wall before the upper part of the strip can be adjusted. If the paper is very thick, both ends must be folded over, so as to meet in the middle. Besides being more conve- nient for handling, this allows the paper to soften, without the paste getting dry. 2814. To Apply Paper to "Walls. The upper end of the piece should then be taken by the corners, and the operator, step- ping upon a bench or step-ladder, should barely stick the piece at the top, and in such a manner that the edge shall coincide with the piece previously hung ; this can be done by sighting down the trimmed edge of the piece, while it is held in the hands. The cloth should now be held in a loose bunch, and the paper smoothed with it from top to bottom, care being taken to work out all air from under the paper, which, if not thorough- ly done, will give it a very unsightly blistered appearance. If any air remains under a part of the strip after it has been hung, a hole must be pricked through the paper with a pin, to allow of its escape. A soft flat whisk- brash (such as is used for brushing clothes) is better for smoothing the paper than a cloth. After the top is secured so that the pattern matches, brush once down the centre of the strip as far as the paste is exposed. Then carefully unfold the bottom of the strip, brush down the centre, and smooth the whole by brushing from the centre to the edges, right and left, all the way down, finishing with one sweep down the trimmed edge, to ensure a perfect join. A moist cloth should be always at hand to keep the figures clean and free from color. If the wall be uneven or crooked, as is often the case in old houses, it will be difficult to avoid wrinkles, but they can be mostly got rid of by cutting the paper and allowing the cut edges to lap over each other, in places where there would otherwise be a wrinkle. By following these directions the most inexperienced will be able to do a reasonably tidy piece of work, but of course a high degree of skill is only secured by practice. 2815. To Make Glue Sizing. Break up the glue into small pieces, put it in a vessel with sufficient cold water to just cover it; let it soak over night, and in the morning the glue will be soft enough to melt readily with a moderate heat, or- in a water-bath. Add water to reduce to the desired con- sistency. This must be applied as directed in the foregoing receipts. Soluble GrlaSS. This is a combi- nation of silica with an alkali, soluble in boiling water, yielding a fine, transparent, semi-elastic varnish. When made according to Liernen's or Kuhlman's method, under in- creased pressure and heat, it is unaffected by cold water, and the object painted or covered by the same can only be deprived of its coat- ing by undergoing the same heat and pressure as was required to prepare the original solu- tion. Soluble glass prepared from potash is usually called silicate of potash ; that from soda being silicate of soda. The most ex- tensive use which is made, at present, of solu- ble glass produced after the other methods, is for the adulteration of soap ; in fact, such a preparation is a kind of soap, in which the expensive fatty acids are replaced by the cheap silicic acid or sand ; but it is a bad soap, very caustic, as the silicic acid but veiy imperfectly neutralizes the alkali. Another use of water glass is that of hardening cements, mortar, etc., so as .to render them impermeable by water. 2817. Fuchs' Soluble Potash Glass. A mixture of 15 parts pulverized quartz, or pure quartz sand, 10 parts of well purified potash, and 1 part powdered charcoal, may be conveniently employed. These ingredients are to be well mixed and exposed to a strong heat in a fire-proof melting-pot for 5 or 6 hours, until the whole fuses uniformly and steadily ; 'as much heat is required as is ne- cessary to melt common glass. The melted mass is then taken out by means of an iron spoon, and the melting-pot immediately re- filled with a fresh quantity. (At this stage of the process it is said by another authority, that, by pulverizing and exposing it to the air, it will absorb acidity, and by degrees the for- eign salts will, after frequent agitation and stirring, be completely separated, particularly after pouring over the mass some cold water, which dissolves them, but not the soluble glass. ) It is then broken up, pulverized, and dissolved in about 5 parts of boiling water, by introducing it in small portions into an iron vessel and constantly stirring the liquid, re- placing the water as it evaporates, by adding hot water from time to time, and continuing to boil for 3 or 4 hours, until the whole is dis- solved a slimy deposit excepted and until a pellicle begins to form on the surface of the liquid, which indicates that the solution is in a state of great concentration ; it disappears, however, when the liquid is stirred ; and the boiling may then be continued for a short time, in order to obtain the solution in the proper state of concentration, when it has a specific gravity of from 1.24 to 1.25 (about 28 Baum6). In this state it is sufficiently liquid to be used in many operations; in some instances it will be necessary to dilute it with more or less water. "When evaporated to a syrupy consistence, it can be employed with advantage in but few cases. Very frequently it is found contaminated with a little sulphide of potassium, and it becomes necessary to add a little oxide of copper or copper scales to- wards the end of the boiling, which liberates a small quantity of potash, but which renders it rather more suitable for many practical pur- poses than otherwise. If it is desirable, how-; ever, to have a water-glass which is entirely 260 TO DYE WOOD. neutral, it requires to be boiled with freshly- precipitated silica as long as any silica is dis- solved. 2818. Fuchs 1 Soluble Soda Glass. This i.s prepared iu the same way as the potash glass (see No. 2817), with the exception that a smaller proportion of soda is required. A mixture of 45 parts by weight of quartz, 23 parts dry carbonate of soda, and 3 parts char- coal, may bo employed. The mixture fuses somewhat easier than potash glass. 2819. Buchner's Soluble Soda Glass. Take 100 parts quartz, 60 parts dry sulphate of soda, and 15 to 20 parts charcoal. This is said to be cheaper than that made with car- bonate of soda, and is prepared in the same manner. By the addition of some copper scales to the mixture the sulphur will be sep- arated. Another method is proposed by dis- solving the fine silex in caustic soda lye. Knhlinan employs the powdered flint, which is dissolved in an iron caldron under a pres- sure of 7 to 8 atmospheres of steam. Liebig has 'recommended infusorial earth in place of sand, on account of its being readily soluble in caustic lye ; and ho proposes to use 120 parts of the earth to 75 parts of caustic soda, from which 240 parts of silica jelly may be obtained. His mode is to calcine the earth so as to become white, and passing it through a sieve. The lye he prepares from 75 ounces of calcined soda, dissolved in 5 times the quan- tity of boiling water, and then treated by 56 ounces of dry slacked lime ; this lye is con- centrated by boiling down to 48 Baum6 ; in this boiling lye 120 ounces of the prepared in- fusorial earth are added by degrees, which are readily dissolved, leaving scarcely any sediment. It has then to undergo several operations for making it suitable for use, such as treating again with lime-water, boiling it and separating any precipitate, which by con- tinued boiling forms into balls, and which can then be removed from the liquid. This clear liquid is then evaporated to the consistency of syrup ; it forms a jelly slightly colored, feels dry and not sticky, and is readily soluble in boiling water. The difference between potash and soda soluble glass is not material ; the first may be preferred in whitewashing with plaster of Paris, while the soda glass is more fluidly divisible. 2820. ' To Distinguish Potash and Soda Soluble Glass. By adding i volume of rectified alcohol to a concentrated solution of soluble potash glass, a gelatinous precipi- tate is formed, which, in a few days, is de- posited at the bottom of the vessel in a solid mass. The addition of alcohol to soluble soda glass converts it into a gelatinous mass, but affords no precipitate. 2821 . To Make Wood Incombustible. The application of soluble glass to wood ren- ' ders it almost incombustible. 2822. Double Soluble Glass. A mix- ture of 3 parts by measure of concentrated potash soluble glass, and 2 parts concentrated soda glass, produce a double water-glass which will answer all practical purposes. The following preparation is also recom- mended by Fuchs, as being much easier to fuse. Take 100 parts quartz, 28 parts purified potash, 22 parts neutral dry carbonate of soda, and 6 parts powdered charcoal. 2823. Soluble Glass for Stereo-Chro- mic Painting. Soluble glass for the use of stereo-chromic painting is obtained by fusing 3 parts of pure carbonate of soda and 2 parts of powdered quartz, from which a concentrated solution is prepared, 1 part of which is then added to 4 parts of a concentrated and fully saturated solution of potash-glass solution, by which there is a more condensed amount of ; silica with the alkalies; this solution has "' been found to work well for paint. Siemens' patent for the manufacture of soluble glass consists in the production of a liquid quartz by digesting the eand or quartz in a steam- boiler tightly closed and at a temperature corresponding to 4 or 5 atmospheres, with the common caustic alkalies, which are in this way capacitated to dissolve from 3 to 4 times the weight of silica to a thin liquid. Experi- ence has taught that the soluble glass made in the old way, with an excess of alkali, can- not stand the influence of the atmosphere when used as a paint. The soda washes out, and leaves the silex in a pulverized condition, so that it soon disappears. When, however, a closed boiler is used, according to Kuhlman's or Siemens' method, and a pressure of 7 or 8 atmospheres, which corresponds with a tem- perature of some 120 above the boiling point of water, the solvent qualities of the latter are increased to such an extent as to enable it to dissolve a glass containing J to ^ the amount of potash or soda. TO Dye WOOd. Dyeing wood is mostly applied for giving color to ve- neers, while staining is more generally had re- course to, to give the desired color to an article after it has been manufactured. Iu the one case, the color should penetrate throughout, while in the latter the surface is all that is es- sential. After the veneers are cut, they should be allowed to lie in a trough of water for 4 or 5 days before being put into the copper ; as? the water brings out abundance of slimy mat- ter, which, if not thus removed, would prevent the wood taking a good color. After this pu- rifying process, the veneers should bo dried in the open air for at least 12 hours. They are then ready for the copper. By this simple method, the color will strike much quicker, and -be of n brighter hue. It would also add to the quality of the colors, if, after the ve- neers have boiled a few hours, they are taken out, dried in the air, and again immersed in the coloring copper. Always dry veneers in the open air, for fire invariably injures tho colors. (Sec Noa. 2837, etc.) 2825. Fine Black Dye for Wood. Put 6 pounds chip logwood into the copper, with as many veneers as.it will conveniently hold, without pressing too tight ; fill it with water, and let it boil slowly for about 3 hours ; then add i pound powdered verdigris, i pound cop- peras, and 4 ounces bruised nut-galls ; fill tho copper up with vinegar as the water evapo- rates; let it boil gently 2 hours each day till the wood is dyed through. 2826. Fine Yellow Dye for Wood. Reduce 4 pounds of barberry root by sawing, to dust, which put in a copper or brass trough; TO DYE WOOD. 261 add 4 ounces turmeric and 4 gallons water, then put in as many white holly veneers as the liquor will cover ; boil them together for 3 hours, often turning them ; when "cool, add 2 ounces aquafortis, and the dye will strike through much sooner. 2827. Bright Yellow Dye for Wood. To every gallon of water necessary to cover the veneers, add 1 pound French berries ; boil the veneers till the color has penetrated through ; add some brightening liquid (see next receipt) to the infusion of the French berries, and let the veneers remain for 2 or 3 hours, and the color will be very bright. 2828. Liquid For Brightening and Setting Colors. To every pint of strong aquafortis, add 1 ounce grain tin, and a piece of sal-ammoniac the size of a walnut ; set it by to dissolve, shake the bottle round with the cork out, from time to time : in the course of 2 or 3 days it will be fit for use. This will be found an admirable liquid to add to any color, as it not only brightens it, but renders it less likely to fade from exposure to the air. 2829. Fine Blue Dye for Wood. Into a clean glass bottle put 1 pound oil of vitriol, and 4 ounces best indigo pounded in a mortar (take care to set the bottle in a basin or earth- en glazed pan, as it will effervesce), put the veneers into a copper or stone trougli ; fill it rather more than $ with water, and add as much of the vitriol and indigo (stirring it about) as will make a fine blue, which you may know by trying it with a piece of white paper or wood ; let the veneers remain till the dye has struck through. The color will be much improved if the solution of indigo in vitriol be kept a few weeks before using it. The color will also strike better if the veneers be boiled in plain water till completely soaked through, and left for a few hours to dry par- tially, previous to immersing them in the dve. 2830. Bright Green Dye for Wood. Proceed as in either of the previous receipts to produce a yellow; but instead of adding aquafortis or the brightening liquid, add as much vitriolated indigo (see last receipt) as will produce the desired color. 2831. Bright Bed Dye for Wood. To 2 pounds genuine Brazil dust, add 4 gallons water ; put in as many veneers as the liquor will cover ; boil them for 3 hours ; then add 2 ounces alum, and 2 ounces aquafortis, and keep it lukewarm until it has struck through. 2832. Bed Dye for Wood. To every pound of logwood chips, add 2 gallons water; put in the veneers, and boil as in the last; then add a sufficient quantity of the brighten- ing liquid (see No. 2828), till the color is of a satisfactory tint ; keep the whole as warm as you can bear your finger in it, till the color has sufficiently penetrated. The logwood chips should be picked from all foreign sub- stances with which it generally abounds, as bark, dirt, &c.; and it is always best when fresh cut, which may be known by its ap- pearing of a bright red color ; for if stale, it will look brown, and not yield so much color- ing matter. 2833. Bose Colored Dye for Wood. Monier produces a fine pink or rose-color on wood of cellulose, especially that of the ivory nut, by immersing it first in a solution of iodide of potassium, 1 ounces per pint of water, in which it remains for several hours, when it is placed in a bath of corrosive subli- mate, 135 grains to the pint. When properly dyed it is washed and varnished over. Wo should think that less poisonous materials might be found to answer tho same purpose. 2834. Bright Purple Dye for Wood. Boil 2 pounds logwood, cither in chips or pow- der, in 4 gallons water, with the veneers ; after boiling till the color is well struck in, add by degrees vitriolated indigo (sec No. 2829), till the purple is of the shade required, which may be known by trying it with a piece of paper ; let it then boil for 1 hour, and keep the liquid in a milk- warm state till the color has penetrated the veneer. This method, when properly managed, will produce a brilliant purple. 2835. Orange Dye for Wood. Let the veneers be dyed by either of tho methods given for a fine deep yellow (sec Nos. 2826 and 2827), and while they are still wet and saturated with the dye, transfer them to tho bright red dye (see No. 2821), till the color penetrates equally throughout. 2836. Silver-Gray Dye for Wood. Expose any quantity ot old iron, or, what is better, the borings of gun-barrels, &c., in any convenient vessel, and from time to time sprinkle them with muriatic acid, diluted in 4 times its quantity of water, till they are very thickly covered with rust ; then to every 6 pounds add 1 gallon of water in which has been dissolved 2 ounces salt of tartar (car- bonate of potassa) ; lay the veneers in the copper, and cover them with this liquid ; let it boil for 2 or 3 hours till well soaked, then to every gallon of liquor add 4 pound of green copperas, and keep the whole at a moderate temperature till the dye has suffi- ciently penetrated. 2837. To Dye Veneers. Some manu- facturers of Germany, who had been sup- plied from Paris with veneers, colored through- out their mass, were necessitated by the late war to produce them themselves. Mr. Pus- cher states that experiments made in this direction gave in the beginning colors fixed only on the outside, while the inside was un- touched, until the veneers were soaked for 24 hours in a solution of caustic soda containing 10 per cent, of soda, and boiled therein for hour; after washing them with sufficient wa- ter to remove the alkali, they may be dyed throughout their mass. This treatment with soda effects a general disintegration of the wood, whereby it becomes, in the moist state, elastic and leather-like, and ready to absorb the color ; it must then, after dyeing, be dried between sheets of paper and subjected to pres- sure to retain its shape. 2838. To Dye Veneers Black. Te- neers treated as in last receipt and left for 24 hours in a hot decoction of logwood (1 part logwood to 3 water), removing them after j the lapse of that time, and, after drying them superficially, putting them into a hot solution of copperas (1 part copperas to 30 water), will, alter 24 hours, become beautifully and completely dyed black. 2839. To Dye Veneers Yellow. A solution of 1 part picric acid in 60 water, with the addition of so much ammonia as to become perceptible to the smell, dyes veneers 262 TO STAIN WOOD. yellow, which color is not in the least affected by subsequent varnishing. Before dyeing, the veneers require the preparatory treatment given in No. 2837. 2840. To Dye Veneers Rose-Color. Coralline dissolved in hot water, to which a little caustic soda and one-fifth of its volume of soluble glass has been added, produces rose-colors of different shades, dependent on the amount of coralline taken. (See No. 2837.) 2841. To Dye Veneers Silver-Gray. The only color which veneers will take up, without previous treatment of soda, is silver- gray, produced by soaking them for a day in a solution of 1 part copperas to 100 parts water. 'O Stain Wood. Staining wood is altogether a different process from dyeing it, and requires no preparation before the stain be applied. In preparing the stain, but little trouble is required; and, generally speaking, its application differs very little from that of painting. "When carefully done, and properly varnished, staining has a very beautiful appearance, and is much less likely to meet with injury than japanning. 2843. Black Stain for Immediate Use. Boil i pound chip logwood in 2 quarts water, add 1 ounce pearlash, and apply it hot to the work with a brush. Then take 4 pound logwood, boil it as before in 2 quarts water, and add $ ounce verdigris and i ounce green copperas ; strain it off, put in pound rusty steel filings; with this, go over the work a second time. 2844. To Stain Wood Like Ebony. Take a solution of sulphate of iron (green copperas), and wash the wood over with it 2 or 3 times; let it dry, and apply 2 or 3 coats of a strong hot decoction of logwood ; wipe the wood, when dry, with a sponge and wa- ter, and polish with linseed oil. 2845. To Stain Wood Light Mahog- any Color. Brush over the surface with diluted nitrous acid, and when dry apply the following, with a soft brush : dragon's blood, 4 ounces; common soda, 1 ounce ; spirit of wine, 3 pints. Let it stand in a warm place, shake it frequently, and then strain. Kepeat the application until the proper color is obtained. 2846. To Stain Dark Mahogany Color. Boil $ pound madder and 2 ounces logwood in 1 gallon water; then brush the wood well over with the hot liquid. "When dry, go over the whole with a solution of 2 drachms pearlash in 1 quart water. 2847. To Stain Mahogany Color. Pure Socotrine aloes, 1 ounce; dragon's blood, ounce ; rectified spirit, 1 pint ; dis- solve, and apply 2 or 3 coats to the surface of the wood ; finish off with wax or oil tinged with alkanet. Or : "Wash over the wood with strong aquafortis, and when dry, apply a coat of the above varnish ; polish as last. Or : Logwood, 2 ounces; madder, 8 ounces; fustic, 1 ounce ; water, 1 gallon ; boil 2 hours, and apply it several times to the wood boiling hot; when dry, slightly brush it over with a solution of pearlash, 1 ounce, in water, 1 quart ; dry and polish as before. Or : Log- wood, 1 part ; water, 8 parts. Make a decoc- tion and apply it to the wood ; when dry, give it 2 or 3 coats of the following varnish : dragon's blood, 1 part; spirits of wine, 20 parts. Mix. 2848. Beech-wood Mahogany. Dis- solve 2 ounces dragon's blood and 1 ounce aloes in 1 quart rectified spirit of wine, and apply it to the surface of the wood previ- ously well polished. Or : "Wash over the sur- face of the wood with aquafortis, and when thoroughly dry give it a coat of the above varnish. Or : Boil 1 pound logwood chips in 2 quarts water, and add 2 handfuls of walnut peel ; boil again, then strain, and add 1 pint good vinegar ; apply as above. 2849. Artificial Mahogany. The following method of giving any species of wood of a close grain the appearance of ma- hogany in texture, density, and polish, is said to be practiced in France with success. The surface is planed smooth, and the wood is then rubbed with a solution of nitrous acid ; 1 ounce dragon's blood is dissolved in nearly a pint of spirits of wine ; this, and -J- ounce carbonate of soda, are then to be mixed to- gether and filtered, and the liquid in this thin state is to be laid on with a soft brush. This pro/jess is to be repeated, and in a short interval afterwards the wood possesses the external appearance of mahogany. "When the polish diminishes in brilliancy, it may be restored by the use of a little cold-drawn linseed oil. 2850. Fine Black Stain. Boil 1 pound logwood in 4 quarts water, add a double handful of walnut-peel or shells ; boil it up again, take out the chips, add' 1 pint best vinegar, and it will be fit for use ; apply it boiling hot. This will be improved by applying a hot solution of green copperas dissolved in water (an ounce to a quart), over the first stain. 2851. To Imitate B-osewood. Boil J pound logwood in 3 pints water till it is of a very dark red; add h ounce salt of tartar (carbonate of potassa). "While boiling hot, stain the wood with 2 or 3 coats, taking care that it is nearly dry between each ; then, with a stiff flat brush, such as is used by the paint- ers for graining, form streaks with the black stain above named (see last receipt), which, if carefully executed, will be very nearly the appearance of dark rosewood; or, the black streaks may be put in with a camel's hair pen- cil, dipped in a solution of copperas and verdi- gris in a decoction of logwood. A handy brush for the purpose may be made out of a flat brush, such as is used for varnishing ; cut the sharp points off, and make the edges irregular, by cutting out a few hairs here and there, and you will have a tool which will accurately imitate the grain. 2852. To Imitate Rosewood. Stain with the black stain (see No. 2850) ; and when dry, with a brush dipped in the bright- ening liquid (see No. 2828), form red veins, in imitation of the grain of rosewood, which will produce a beautiful effect. 2853. New Stain for Wood. Per- manganate of potassa is recommended as a rapid and excellent stain for wood. A solu- tion of it spread upon pear or cherry wood, VARNISH. 263 for a few minutes, leaves a permanent dark brown color, which, after careful washing, drying, and oiling, assumes a reddish tint upon being polished. 2854. Stolzel's Method of Staining Wood Brown. Dr. Stolzel adds another to the many receipts already given for staining wood of a brown color. First of all paint over the wood with a solution made by boiling 1 part of catechu (Cutch or Gambier) with 30 parts water and a little soda. This is allowed to dry in the air, and the wood is then painted over with another solution made of 1 part bichromate of potash and 30 parts water. By a little difference in the mode of treatment, aud by varying the strength of the solutions, various shades of color may be given with these materials, which will be permanent and tend to preserve the wood. 2855. To Darken Light Mahogany. "When furniture is repaired, it frequently happens that the old wood cannot be matched, and therefore the work presents a patched ap- pearance. To prevent this, wash the pieces introduced, with soap-lees, or dissolve quick- lime in water, and use in the same manner; but be careful not to let either be too strong, or it will make the wood too dark ; it is best, therefore, to use it rather weak at first, and, if not dark enough, repeat the process till the wood is sufficiently darkened. 2856. Bed Stain for Bedsteads and Common Chairs. Archil will produce a very good stain of itself, when used cold ; but if, after 1 or 2 coats being applied and suffered to get almost dry, it is brushed over with a hot solution of pearlash in water, it will improve the color. 2857. To Improve the Color of any Stain. Mix in a bottle 1 ounce of nitric acid, i tea-spoonful muriatic acid, J ounce grain tin, and 2 ounces rain water. Mix it at least 2 days before using, and keep the bottle well corked. 2858. To Stain Musical Instruments and Fancy Boxes. Fancy work necessitates the employment of brighter colors than those used for furniture ; we therefore give the fol- lowing receipts for preparing and applying those most commonly employed for such pur- poses. 2859. Fine Crimson Stain. Boil 1 pound good Brazil dust in 3 quarts water for an hour; strain it, and add i ounce cochineal; boil it again gently for i an hour, and it will be fit for use. If required of a more scarlet tint, boil 4 ounce saffron in 1 quart of water for an hour, and pass over the work previous to the red stain. 2860. Fine Green Stain. To 3 pints strongest vinegar, add 4 ounces best verdigris pounded fine, 4 ounce sap green, and ounce indigo. Distilled vinegar, or verjuice, improves the color. 2861. Purple Stain. To 1 pound good chip logwood, put 3 quarts water; boil it well for an hour ; then add 4 ounces pearlash, and 2 ounces pounded indigo. 2862. Fine Blue Stain. Into 1 pound oil of vitriol (sulphuric acid) in a clean glass * phial, put 4 ounces indigo, and proceed as above directed in dyeing purple. 2863. Bright Yellow Stain. Wood need not be stained yellow, as a small piece of aloes put into the varnish will have the de- sired effect. 2864. Fine Black Stain. As a general thing, when black is required in musical in- struments, it is produced by japanning; the work being well prepared with size and lamp- black, apply the black japan (see No. 2322), after which, varnish and polish. But as a black stain is sometimes required for finger- boards, bridges, and flutes, proceed as directed in staining (see No. 2850); the wood, how- ever, ought to be either pear, apple, or box- wood; the latter is preferable; and if it be rubbed over, when dry, with a rag or flannel dipped in hot oil, it will give it a gloss equal to ebony. 2865. To Stain Boxwood Brown. Hold the work to the fire, that it may receive a gentle warmth; then take aquafortis, and with a feather pass over- the work until it changes to a fine brown (always keeping it near the fire) ; then oil and polish it. 2866. Cane Staining. By the following simple process, canes and similar sticks may be stained a rich brown: Dissolve a few grains sulphate of manganese in sufficient water to take it up ; moisten the surface of the cane with it, and hold it over the flame of a spirit lamp close enough to scorch it. By care, the whole surface may be brought to a uniform rich brown, or beautifully variegated by heating some parts more than others; thus varying the color from white to the deepest black. The color will appear dull at first; but, on oiling it with raw linseed oil, and rub- bing it with a smooth piece of hard wood, it will be beautifully developed. Give the cane no other finish, unless it be another oiling some days after the first. Varilisll. Tarnishes may be con- veniently divided into two kinds, viz., spirit and oil varnishes. Concentrated alcohol is used as the solvent in the former, aud fixed or volatile oils, or mixtures of the two, for tho latter. The specific gravity of alcohol for the ' purpose of making varnishes should not bo greater than 0.820 (that is, not below about 93 per cent). Camphor is often dissolved in it to increase its solvent powers. The oil of turpentine, which is the essential oil chiefly employed, should be pure and colorless. Pale drying linseed oil is the fixed oil generally used for varnishes, but poppy and nut oil aro also occasionally employed. Among the sub- stances employed in the manufacture of var- nishes are turpentine, copal, mastich, lac, elemi, sandarach, anime, and amber, to impart body and lustre; benzoin to impart scent; gamboge, turmeric, saffron, annotto, and Socotrine aloes, to give a yellow color ; dra- gon's blood to give a red tinge ; asphaltum to give a black color and body ; caoutchouc to inpart body, toughness, and elasticity. Var- nish constitutes a distinct branch of manufac- ture, and many of them can be advantageously or safely made only on the large scale on premises adapted for the purpose. 2868. Preparation of Linseed Oil for Making Oil Varnishes. In the manufacture of oil varnishes, one of the most important 264: OIL VAENISEES. points is the use of good drying oil. Linseed oil for this purpose should be pale, limpid, brilliant, scarcely odorous, and mellow and sweet to the taste. 100 gallons of such oil arc put into an iron or copper boiler capable of holding 150 gallons, and gradually heated to a gentle simmer for 2 hours, to expel mois- ture; the scum is then carefully removed, and 14 pounds scale litharge, 12 pounds red lead, and 8 pounds powdered umber (all carefully dried and free from moisture), are gradually sprinkled in; the whole is then kept well stirred, to prevent the dryers sinking to the bottom, und the boiling is continued at a gentle heat, for 3 hours longer; the fire is next withdrawn, and, iu 24 to 36 hours, the scum is carefully removed, and the clear oil decanted from the bottom. This forms the best boiled or drying oil. 2869. Clarified Oil for Varnish. When boiled oil is used for making varnish, and a still further clarifying is deemed advisable, it is placed in a copper pan holding from 80 to 100 gallons, and heat gradually applied till the scum rises, after removing which the oil is allowed to boil for about 2 hours, when it is dosed with calcined magnesia, in the propor- tion of an ounce to every 4 gallons of oil, but added by degrees and with occasional stirring*. This being completed, the oil is again boiled briskly for about an hour, and then, the fur- nace being drawn, allowed to cool. When the temperature is sufficiently reduced, it is removed to leaden cisterns, where it is stored till fit for use. 2870. Clarified Linseed Oil for Var- nishes. Heat in a copper boiler 50 gallons of linseed oil to 280 Fahr.; add 2i pounds of calcined white vitriol, and keep the oil at the above temperature for i hour ; then remove it from the fire, and in 24 hours decant the clear oil, which should stand for a few weeks before it is used for varnish. 2871. Wilks? Refined Linseed Oil. In 236 gallons oil pour 6 pounds oil of vitriol, and stir them together for 3 hours ; then add 6 pounds fullers' earth, well mixed with 14 'pounds hot lime, and stir for 3 hours. Put the oil into a copper boiler, with an equal quantity of water, and boil for 3 hours ; then extinguish the fire, and when the materials are cold draw off the water, and let the oil stand to settle for a few weeks before using. 2872. Boiled Oil for Varnishes. Mix 100 gallons linseed oil and 7 pounds calcined white vitriol (sulphate of zinc) in fine powder, in a clean copper boiler; heat it to 285 Fahr., and keep it at that temperature for at least an hour, constantly stirring it; then allow it to cool; in 24 hours decant the clear portion, and in 3 or 4 weeks rack it for use. 2873. Cautions Respecting the Ma- king of Varnish. As heat in many cases is necessaiy to dissolve the gums used in ma- king varnish, the best way, when practicable, is to use a sand-bath, which is simply placing the vessel containing the varnish, in another filled with sand and placed on the fire. This will generally be sufficient to prevent the spirits catching fire ; but to avoid such an ac- cident (which not unfrequently happens), it will be best to take a vessel sufficiently large to prevent any danger of spilling its contents ; indeed, the vessel should never be more than two-thirds filled. However, a piece of board sufficiently large to cover the top of the ves- sel should always be at hand in case the spirits should take fire ; as also a wet wrapper, in case it should be spilled, as water itself thrown on would only increase the mischief. The person who attends the varnish-pot should have his hands covered with gloves, and, if they are made of leather, and rather damp, it will effectually prevent injury. These cau- tions should be well observed, or shocking personal injury may result from their neglect. In the city, it is hardly worth while to make varnish, unless in large quantities, as there are many stores where it may be had very good, and at a fair price ; but in the country, where the freight is an object, and you can- not depend upon the genuineness of the article, it is necessary to be known by the practical mechanic how to make it ; when it is avail- able, it is best to purchase it. The varnish generally sold for varnishing furniture is white hard varnish. Oil VarnislieS. These, the most durable and lustrous of varnishes, .are composed of a mixture of resin, oil, and spirit of turpentine. The oils most frequently em- ployed are linseed and walnut; the resins chiefly used are copal and amber, and some other gums. The drying power of the oil hav- ing been increased by litharge, red lead, or by sulphate of lead, and a judicious selection of copal having been made, it is necessary, ac- cording to Booth, to bear in mind the following facts before proceeding to the manufacture of varnish: 1. That varnish is not a solution, but an intimate mixture of resin with boiled oil and spirit of turpentine. 2. That the resin must be completely fused previous to the addition of the boiled or prepared oil. 3. That the oil must be heated from 250 to 300. 4. That the spirit of turpentine must be add- ed gradually, and in a thin stream, while the mixture of oil and resm is still hot. 5. That the varnish be made in dry weather, otherwise moisture is absorbed, and its transparency and drying quality impaired. Of late years it has been practically demonstrated that not only is there no necessity for boiling the oil and gum after incorporation, but that the produce is equally good if the turpentine be added just before the mixture becomes too cold to permit of a perfect amalgamation. In fact, it is now acknowledged that the oil need not be raised to a higher temperature than that at which the gum employed fuses, and that when the two are mixed the lowest possible degree of heat which will insure their incorporation, is sufficient to secure all the results desired. By this method a large quantity of the turpentine formerly lost in evaporation is saved, and there is, moreover, less risk of fire. The heat- ing vessel must be of copper, of a capacity at least one-third more gallons than the mixture to bo introduced into it, with a riveted and not a soldered bottom. To promote the ad- mixture of the copal with the hot oil, the co- pal carefully selected and of nearly uniform fusibility is separately heated with contin- uous stirring over a moderate charcoal fire kept constantly supplied with fuel, without OIL VARNISHES. disturbing the kettle until the completion of the mixture with the oil. If the copal is melt- ed in the' hot oil, the resulting varnish i.-; more colored a'nd less drying. There is, however, great care required in fusing the copal by it- self; for if the heat is too much prolonged, the resin becomes pitchy, and gives an inferior varnish. Constant stirring is requisite to pre- vent adhesion to the sides and bottom of the vessel, and consequent scorching. The pieces of copal should bo of uniform fusibility ; the different varieties, therefore, should not be fused together, for that which melts first is apt to scorch before the more refractory are fused. If it is desired to mix different varie- ties, they should be fused separately and then mixed in fluid state. When the resin is thor- oughly melted, the hot oil is to be ladled in gradually during constant stirring. To deter- mine when sufficient oil has been added, a drop must be now and then taken out and cooled upon a glass plate. If, on cooling, it is limpid and wax-like, penetrable with the nail without cracking, the proportion of oil is sufficient ; if, however, it is hard and brittle, more oil is required. Sorno resins absorb more oil than others. The spirits of turpen- tine should bo heated, and added in a thin stream to the oil and resin while still hot. Care must bo taken not to add the turpentine while the mixture is too hot, as too much of the turpentine will bo lost by evaporation; but if the mixture gets too cool it becomes sticky, the addition of turpentine must be stopped, and it must be replaced over the fire and heated gradually up to G00. Limpidity is thus restored, and, upon removal from the fire, sufficient turpentine should bo added to impart the proper consistence ; but this extra heating injures the quality of the varnish. 2875. Common Oil 'Varnish. Eesin, 3 pounds; drying oil, i gallon; melt to- gether, and add, when removed from the fire, 2 quarts warm oil of turpentine. 2876. Oil Copal Varnish. Pale hard copal, 2 pounds ; fuse, add hot drying oil, 1 pint; boil as before directed, and thin with 011 of turpentine, 3 pints, more or less, as found necessary. Very pale. Dries hard in 12 to 24 hours. 2877. Best Pale Carriage Varnish. Pale African copal, 8 pounds ,~ fuse, and add clarified linseed oil, 2J- gallons ; boil till very stringy, then add dried copperas and litharge, of each pound ; boil as before directed, thin with oil of turpentine, 5 gallons; mix while hot with the following varnish, aad immedi- ately strain the mixture into a covered vessel : Gum anime, 8 pounds ; clarified linseed oil, 2i gallons ; dried sugar of lead and litharge, of each i pound ; boil as before, thin with oil of turpentine, 5 gallons, and mix it while hot with the last varnish as' above directed. Dries in 4 hours in summer and G in winter. Used for the wheels, springs, and carnage parts of coaches and other vehicles, and by house painters, decorators, the light, but does not in- jure the picture or image. The usual time for leaving the print in this bath is about 15 minutes. If the print is held up to transmit- ted light before it is placed in this solution, it will appear quite opaque .and cloudy in what should be the clear parts of the picture. After the print has been in the bath the proper time this will disappear, and the print have a clear, translucent effect. The print should now be washed in 2 or 3 waters, and left to soak in a dish of water all night. In the morning it can be hung up to dry, and then mounted, as the taste of the experiment- er may suggest. If the saving of time is an object, the print, after coming from the fixing bath, can be rinsed in water and passed through a common clothes-wringer a few times, each time being dipped in clean water, when the print will be found to be perfectly washed. "When properly fixed, as already described, they are to be washed, and finally mounted on card or bristol board. The best paste for this purpose is common laundry starch. 3140. Precautions to be Observed in Making 1 a Picture. When directions are given to prepare and keep the sensitive paper in a dark room, it should, of course, be under- stood that daylight only is to be excluded ; gas or candle light will do no harm. A window closely covered with yellow paper completely filters the light of all actinic or chemical power, and consequently will do no harm. Be careful that not a drop of the fixing solu- tion gets into the gold or toning bath. After the final process of fixing, take the greatest care that the prints do not again come into contact with the hyposulphite of soda. Soda is good indispensable in its place, but ex- ceedingly harmful out of its place. So keep all the dishes and fingers free from it. In all of the manipulations, observe the most perfect neatness. Handle the prints with the tips of your fingers, and always with deliberation and care. If the silver solution grows weak by use a mealy look to the prints indicates it add a few grains of nitrate of silver. If by use it turns a dark wine color, and the paper is not white when dry, set the solution m clear sunlight for a day or two and it will clear. Filter before using again. The soda (fixing) bath should not be used more than 2 or 3 times. "Where prints are only occasion- ally made, a fresh bath should be made each time of printing. The gold (toning) bath works quicker when warmed to about blood heat, Prints will then tone in from 2 to 6 minutes. Prints on plain paper will tone quicker than on albumenized. If prints are undertoned they will present a warm brown appearance ; if toned too much, a cold steel color. A little experience will soon indicate the precise amount of toning required. 3141. To Remove Nitrate of Silver Stains. An inevitable consequence of prac- ticing this process will be stains on the hands and clothing from the nitrate of silver. Moisten the spots with tincture of iodine, and then with a saturated solution of hyposul- phite of soda. Cyanide of potassium acts more energetically, but is a very chmgerous poison, and is not recommended. 3142. The Photographic Negative or Clich6. In number 3128 we have sta- ted the general principles of the photographic art; that it was based upon the fact that solar light decomposes certain combinations of the salts of silver ; that in proportion or to the extent that such sensitive surface is ex- posed to the action of light, so is the depth of the stain or intensity of the image upon the prepared paper. Now if we should cut from an opaque or black piece of paper, any form or figure an old fashioned silhouette would be a familiar illustration and place it upon the silvered paper, the precise image or form cut in the paper would, upon removal, be found upon the paper; the paper remaining white under the figure leaf or " theorem," while the parts exposed to the light have turned black. In place of this figure, science has given us the Photographic Negative or Cliche. A negative is an image produced upon glass by a camera (an improved form of the old cam- era obscura) and derives its name from the fact that the image is reversed or negative by transmitted light (looking through it), the lights appearing dark, and the dark parts light. The chemicals used to produce it are also combinations of the salts of silver, but are so sensitive to the action of light, that they are decomposed instantaneously by ex- posure. The formulae will follow a descrip- tion of the process. 3143. To Make a Photographic Negative. In a room illuminated only by a feeble gas or candle light, .or by such daylight as is filtered of its chemical power through a sheet of yellow glass, a glass plate is care- fully flowed with collodion. (See No. 3149.) "When the plate has been evenly covered, the excess is quickly but deliberately returned to the bottle, and the plate gently and slowly swayed from side to side until the collodion is set, or when the surface is tacky to the touch. It is then placed on a dipper, and, with a steady, continuous motion, immersed, collo- dion side upwards, in the silver bath. (See No. 3150.) If the plate is stopped in its de- scent into the bath, a check or line will show across its face. In 3 to 5 minutes, depending upon temperature, etc., the plate is coated, or, in other words, the chemicals in the collo- dion have united with the nitrate of silver, forming the sensitive surface or coating, If not coated sufficiently the surface will appear greasy; in this case the plate must be returned to the bath until the film appears perfectly smooth. "While this is being done it is sup- posed that the operator has adjusted the camera upon the object to be photographed by focussing his lens. This is clone by turn- ing the lens in and out, or from and towards the ground glass of the camera, until the point is ascertained which gives the sharpest image upon the ground glass. All being ready, the operator returns to the dark room for his sensitive plate. This is placed in a "holder," and the ground glass being re- moved, the holder is substituted in its place. The slide or cover to the holder is now with- drawn and the sensitive plate exposed to the action of the image of light thrown upon it by 288 PHOTOGRAPHY. the lens. After an exposure of 15 to 60 sec- onds, depending so much upon the intensity of the light that it can only be ascertained by experience, the slide is replaced in the holder and the plate taken to the dark room for de- velopment. 3144. To Develop a Negative. This is done by removing the plate from the hold- er, and, holding the plate in a horizontal po- sition, flowing it with the developing solu- tion. (See No. 3151.) If properly timed or exposed, the image begins to appear. When the details of the drapery, if a portrait, ap- pear and the solution seems to have lost its power, the plate is thoroughly washed under a stream of clean water. If the image is suf- ficiently strong and vigorous, it is " cleared" by placing the plate in the fixing bath, and that portion of the film not acted upon by the light is dissolved away, leaving the image upon the glass. After a thorough washing in water, the plate is put in a rack to dry, after which it is slightly warmed and var- nished. 3145. To Varnish a Negative. The varnish (see No. 3153) is flowed on and off' precisely as with the collodion. (See No. 3143.) It should be again slightly wanned to prevent the varnish from chilling or bloom- ing. When dry, which will be in 5 to 10 minutes, the negative is ready for use as de- scribed in Nos. 3135, e taken not to make use of too strong a lye. ?or cleaning purposes, benzole has been found >est. Objects of aluminum can be electro- )lated without the least difficulty, and Mouray ucceeded in imparting to them a bright, white PLATINUM ANTIMONY. 307 lustre in passing them successively through a weak bath of hydrofluoric acid and aqua fortis. The effect thus obtained is said to be really surprising. 3332. To Frost Aluminum. The metal is piunged into a solution of caustic potash. The surface, becoming frosted, does not tarnish on exposure to the air. PlatinilHl also called platina is the heaviest substance but one (see No. 47) known, having a specific gravity of fully 21, which may be raised to about 21.5 by hammering. It is whiter than iron, harder than silver, infusible in the hottest furnace, and melts only before the compound blow- pipe at a heat of about 3080 Fahr. On this account it is valuable for making capsules &c., intended to resist strong heat. Platinum undergoes no change by exposure to air and moisture, or the strongest heat of a smith's forge, and is not attacked by any of the pure acids, but is dissolved by chlorine and nitro- muriatic acid (aqua regia), though with more difficulty than gold. Spongy and powdered platinum possess the remarkable property of causing the union of oxygen and hydrogen gases. It is chiefly imported from South America, but is also found in the Ural Moun- tains of Russia, in Ceylon, and a few other places. Platinum, when alloyed with silver, is soluble in nitric acid ; the pure metal is dis- solved by aqua regia, and is more or less at- tacked by caustic alkali, nitre, phosphorus, &c., with heat. Platinum is precipitated from its solutions by deoxidizing substances under the form of a black powder, which has the power of absorbing oxygen, and again impart- ing it to combustible substances, and thus causing their oxidation. In this way alcohol and pyroxilic spirit may be converted into acetic and formic acids, &c. (See No. 1741, also A cetic Acid. ) ( Cooley. ) 3334. To Purify Platinum. The na- tive alloy (crude platinum) is acted upon, as far as possible, with nitro-muriatic acid, con- taining an excess of muriatic acid, and slight- ly diluted with water. The solution is preci- pitated by the addition of sal-ammoniac, which throws down nearly the whole of the platinum in the state of an ammonio-chloride, which is washed with a little cold water, dried, and heated to redness ; the product is spongy metallic platinum. This is made into a thin uniform paste with water, pressed in a brass mould, to squeeze out the water and render the mass sufficiently solid to bear hand- ling. It is then dried, carefully heated to whiteness, and hammered or pressed in the heated state ; after this treatment it may be rolled into plates or worked into any desired shape. (Cooley). 3335. Platinated Asbestos. Dip as- bestos in a solution of chloride of platinum, and heat it to redness. It causes the inflam- mation of hydrogen in the same manner as sponge platinum. 3336. Spongy Platinum. Dissolve separately crude bichloride of platinum, and hydrochlorate of ammonia in proof spirit; add the one solution to the other as long as a precipitate falls; this is collected, and, while still moist, formed into little balls or pieces, which are then dried, and gradually heated to redness. 3337. Spongy Platinum. Dissolve platinum, by the aid of heat, in a mixture of three parts nitric and 5 parts muriatic acid, avoiding great excess of acid. To this solu- tion add a strong solution of muriate of am- monia; collect the resulting precipitate on a filter, and, when nearly dry, form it into a mass of the shape desired for the sponge. Heat this to whiteness on charcoal, with a blow-pipe or otherwise, and the platinum re- mains in the spongy state. Its characteristic properties may be restored, when lost, by simply heating it to redness. 3338. Platinum-Black. Platina Mohr. This is platinum in a finely divided state, and is obtained thus : Add to a solution of bi- chloride of platinum, an excess of carbonate of soda, and a quantity of sugar. Boil until the precipitate which forms becomes, after a little while, perfectly black, and the superna- tant liquid colorless ; filter the powder, wash, and dry it by a gentle heat. Another method is by melting platina ore with twice its weight of zinc, powdering, digesting first in dilute sul- phuric acid, and next in dilute nitric acid, to remove the zinc, assisting the action of the menstruum by heat; it is then digested in potash lye, and lastly in pure water, after which it is carefully dried. Platinum-black possesses the property of condensing gases, more especially oxygen, into its pores, and afterwards yielding it to various oxidizable substances. If some of it be mixed with al- cohol into a paste, and spread on a watch glass, pure acetic acid is given off, and affords a ready means of diffusing the odor of vinegar in an apartment. (See No. 1741.) This is a bluish-white, lustrous, semi-crystalline, extremely brittle metal, of about 6.7 specific gravity; imparts brittleness to alloys ; inflammable at high temperature ; melts just under redness, 810 Fahr., fumes, boils, and volatilizes at a white heat, and when suddenly exposed to the air, inflames and is converted into teroxide of antimony, which is deposited in beautiful crystals. Antimony dissolves in hot hy- drochloric acid, forming terchloride of anti- mony ; nitric acid converts it into antimonio acid. This metal is obtained principally from France and Germany. Gold, when exposed to the vapors of antimony, loses its ductility and malleability, and becomes as brittle as antimony itself. 3340. Tests for Antimony. An acid solution of antimony gives, in combination with sulphuretted hydrogen, an orange-red precipitate, sparingly soluble in ammonia, but readily soluble in pure potassa and alka- line sulphurets. Hydrosulphuret of ammonia throws down from the acid solution an orange-red precipitate, readily soluble in ex- cess of the precipitant, if the latter contain sulphur in excess ; and the liquor containing the re-dissolved precipitate gives a yellow or orange-yellow precipitate on the addition of 308 BISMUTH ALLOTS. an acid. Ammonia, and potassa, and their carbonates (excepting in solutions of tartar emetic) give a bulky white precipitate ; that from ammonia being insoluble in excess of the precipitant; that from potassa readily so; while those from the carbonate are only solu- ble on the application of heat. 3341. To Estimate the Purity of Antimony. Treat pulverized antimony with nitric acid ; this oxidizes the antimony, and leaves it in an insoluble state, whilst it dissolves the other metals. Collect the oxide on a filter, wash, dry, ignite, and weigh it. This weight, multiplied by .843, gives the weight of pure metal in the sample examined. If this has been previously weighed, the per- centage of pure metal is easily arrived at. 3342. To Obtain Metallic Antimony. Mix together 16 parts sulphuret of antimony and 6 parts cream of tartar, both in powder ; put the mixture, in small quantities at a time, into a vessel heated to redness; when reaction ceases, fuse the mass, and, after 15 minutes, pour it out and separate the metal from the slag. The product is nearly pure. Or : Equal parts of protoxide of antimony and bitartrate of potassa (cream of tartar) ; mix and fuse as above, and pour the metal into small conical moulds. Or : 8 parts sulphuret of antimony, 6 parts cream of tartar, and 3 parts nitre. Treated as above. Or : 2 parts sulphuret of antimony and 1 part iron filings ; calcine at a strong heat in a covered crucible. 3343. To Obtain Commercial Anti- mony. Fuse together 100 parts sulphuret of antimony, 40 parts metallic iron, and 10 parts dry crude sulphate of soda. This produces from 60 to 65 parts of antimony, besides the scorise or ash, which is also valuable. acid ; add caustic potash in excess, and the xides of bismuth and lead will be precipitated, rat the lead oxide will be at once re-dissolved >y the alkali. The oxide of bismuth can then >e separated by filtration, washed, and igni- ed. (Makins.) B ism. Tltll. This metal is principal- ly prepared in Germany, and, as im- ported, generally contains both arsenic and copper. It is a crystalline metal, very brittle, of a reddish white color ; melts at about 500 Pahr., volatilizes at a strong heat, and the fumes form crystalline scales (flowers of bis- muth). It burns when strongly heated in the air, and has a specific gravity of about 9.8. The addition of bismuth to other metals lowers their melting point in an extraordi- nary manner, making it a useful ingredient in the composition of type-metal and solders (-See No. 3499, etc.) 3345. To Purify Bismuth. Dissolve crude bismuth in nitric acid, and concentrate the solution by evaporation. Then pour the clear solution into a large bulk of distillec r water, and a white powder (sub-nitrate of bis muth) will be precipitated. Collect the precip itate and digest it for a time in a little caustic potash, to dissolve away any arsenious acids that may be present ; next wash and dry the sub-nitrate ; heat it with about -^ its weigh of charcoal in an earthen crucible, and thi pure bismuth will be found at the bottom o the crucible. (Makins.) 3346. To Separate Bismuth from Lead. Dissolve the mixed metal in nitric Combinations of the metals with each other obtained by fusion. "When mercury is one of the component metals, the compound is termed an amalgam. (See No. 3532.) Most of the metals unite with each other by fusion or amalgamation, and acquire new properties. Thus : copper alloy- ed with zinc, becomes brass, and possesses a different density, hardness, and color to either of its constituents. No general rules for the manufacture of alloys applicable to each can >e given; but it may be remarked that, in uniting metals differing greatly in their melt- ng points, the least fusible should be melted first, and the others added, one at a time, in iheir order of fusibility, the most fusible metal being the last to be added ; also that, Before the addition of each succeeding metal, the temperature of the already, fused mass should be reduced to the lowest point at which t will remain fluid, or as near as possible to ;he fusing point of the metal to be next intro- duced, so that it may not evaporate or be oxidized, and thus cause the compound to bo mperfect. This is a general rule, to be ap- plied in most cases; but there are exceptions. For instance: gold will easily dissolve in melted tin; and platinum in many mefals. [f platinum were first melted, and zinc, for instance, added, the temperature necessary to obtain the fusion of platinum would be suffi- cient to volatilize the zinc. The mixture is usually effected under a flux, or some material that will prevent evaporation and exposure to the atmosphere. Thus : in melting lead and tin together, in forming solder, resin or tallow is thrown upon the surface ; in tinning cop- per, the surface is rubbed with sal-ammoniac ; and in combining some metals, powdered charcoal is used for the same purpose. (See No. 3470.) As we have already said, most of the alloys are prepared by simply fusing the metals together; but if there be a considerable difference in their specific gravities, the heav- ier very generally subsides, and the lower part of the mass thus differs in composition from the upper. This may be in a great measure prevented by agitating the alloy till it solidifies, but this is not always convenient. Thus, in stereotype plates, which are cast ver- tically, the upper side usually contains more antimony than the other. Asa general rule, the substances (elements) of nature unite together in fixed and definite atomic propor- tions, thereby forming new compounds. Met- als unite with non-metallic bodies, and obey the same general law; but metals, when united with metals, appear to form an excep- tion, though much doubt exists on the subject. They seem to mix in any proportion, and are thereby modified, possessing thereafter prop- erties which fit them for many purposes in commerce and art. These compounds, being considered at present non-chemical bodies, are ALLOYS. 309 classed together under the French term of al- loys. Alloys are generally more fusible than the least fusible of the component metals ; but are often harder and more brittle than the hardest and most brittle of the component metals. With some exceptions, the ductility and tenacity of an alloy is less than that of its inetals. 3348. Table of the Principal Alloys of Copper. This table of the alloys of copper is from Dr. Ure. The bronze for statues is the composition used by Keller Brothers, the celebrated brass founders. Copper. Zinc. Tin. Nickel. Antimony Lead. 87.000 13.000 97.000 3.000 Bronze for statues ................ 91.400 5.530 1.700 1.370 for medals ............ 90.000 10.000 for cannon . ........... 90.000 10.000 78.000 22.000 for gilding ........ ...... 82.257 17.481 0.238 0024 80.000 16.500 2.500 1000 Speculum metal .................... 66.000 34.000 Brass for sheet ... .............. 84.700 15.300 Gilding metal .... 73.730 26.270 Prince's metal ..................... 75.000 25.000 n s Test for the Silver on Silver-Plated Metals. The test fluid consists of a saturated solution of bichromate of potassa in nitric acid, specific gravity 1.2. Any dirt or varnish having been removed by strong alcohol from the metallic surface to be tested, a drop of the test fluid is applied to it by means of a glass rod, and immediately afterwards washed off with some cold water. If pure silver is present (as regards silver coins, these are left in contact with the test fluid for a greater length of time), there will appear clearly a blood-red colored mark (chromate of silver). Upon German silver the test liquid appears brown, but after wash- ing with water the blood-red colored mark does not appear ; the so-called britannia-metal is colored black ; on platinum no action is vis- ible ; metallic surfaces coated with an amal- gam of mercury yield a reddish speck, which, however, is entirely washed off by water; on lead and bismuth the test liquid forms a yel- low-colored precipitate; zinc and tin are both strongly acted upon by this test liquid, which, as regards the former metal, is en- tirely removed by water, while, as regards the latter, the test liquid is colored brown- ish, and addition of water produces a yellow precipitate which somewhat adheres to the tin. 3715. Plating on Iron or Steel. Take 2 quarts rain water, dissolve 2 pounds cyanide of potassium, and filter. In order to plate steel or iron, dip it into pure sulphuric acid for one minute, then clean with pumice stone, and brush; rinse, and hang in solution of cyanide of potassium for three minutes, or until it becomes white; then hang in silver solution until plated heavv enough. (See No. 3698.) 3716. Taking Silver from Copper, Etc. First by stripping or dissolving it off; this is done by putting into a stoneware or copper pan some strong sulphuric acid (vit- riol), to which a little nitrate of potassa is added; the article is laid into this solution, which will dissolve the silver without materi- ally affecting the copper ; nitrate of potassa is added by degrees, as occasion requires ; and if the action is slow a little heat is applied to the vessel. The silver being removed, the article is well washed and then passed through the potash solution, and finished for plating. When the sulphuric acid becomes saturated with silver it is diluted, and the sSver is pre- cipitated by a solution of common salt ; the chloride of silver formed is collected and fused in a crucible with carbonate of potash, when the silver is. obtained in a metallic state, as a knob or button. The crucible should not be over two-thirds full, and should be kept in fu- sion till effervescence ceases. The crucible is then removed from the fire, and, when cool, it is broken. (See No. 3702.) The article thus stripped by acids often shows a little rough- ness, not from the effects of the acid, but be- cause the copper under the silver has not been polished ; it is therefore a necessary practice in the electroplating factories to pol- ish the articles before plating. This is done by means of a circular brush, more or less hard as required, fixed upon a lathe, and a thin paste made of oil and pumice-stone ground as fine as flour. By this process the surface of any article can be smoothed and polished ; but a little experience is required to ensure success, and enable the operator to polish the surface equally without leaving brush marks. After this the article must be cleaned in pot- ash before it is plated. 3717. To Recover Silver from Copper. Instead of stripping off the silver by means of acid, as in No. 3716, it is a more common and preferable mode to brush off the silver by the operation just described. In this case the brushings must be collected, dried,. and burned; this may be done in an iron pan. keeping it at a red heat until all carbonaceous matters are consumed ; the remainder is fused with carbonate of soda or potash, when the silver is obtained, in combination with a little copper. 3718. Cyanide of Silver and Potas- sium, its Decomposition During the Plating Process. The silver salt in the plating solution is a true double salt, being, as already described, a compound of 1 equi- valent of cyanide of silver, and 1 of cj-am'de of potassium two distinct salts. In the decom- position of the silver solution by the electric current, the former, cyanide of silver, is alone affected: the silver is deposited, and the cyanogen passes to the positive plate or elec- trode. The cyanide of potassium is therefore set at liberty upon the surface of the article receiving the silver deposit, and its solution, being specifically lighter than the general mass of the plating solution, rise# to the top ; this causes a current to take place along the face of the article being plated. If the article has a fiat surface, suppose that of a waiter or tray, upon which a prominence exists, as a mounting round the edge, it will cause lines and ridges from the bottom to the top. Newly formed solutions are most subject to produce this annoyance. 3719. Dead Silvering for Medals. The perfect smoothness whicn a medal gene- rally possesses on the surface, renders it very difficult to obtain a coating of dead silver upon it, having the beautiful silky lustre which characterizes that kind of work, except by giving it a very thick coating of silver, which takes away the sharpness of the im- ELECTRO-GILDING. 345 pression. This dead appearance can be easily obtained by putting the medal, previous to silvering, in a solution of copper, and deposit- ing upon it, by means of a weak current, a mere blush of copper, which gives the face of the medal that beautiful crystalline richness that deposited copper is known to give. The medal is then to be washed from the copper solution, and immediately to i>e put into the silver solution. A very slight coating of sil- ver will suffice to give the dead frosty lustre so much admired, and in general so difficult to obtftin. 3720. To Recover Silver from Old Plated Goods. Oil of vitriol, together with 5 per cent, of nitrate of soda, is heated in a cast-iron boiler, or a stoneware pan, to 212 Fahr. The silver-plated clippings are placed in a sheet-iron bucket or cullender, which is fastened to a pulley that it may be moved about in the acid. As soon as the silver is removed, the cullender is raised, allowed to drain, then immersed in cold water and emp- tied, to be again used in the same manner. When the acid bath is fresh, the desilvering proceeds very rapidly, and even with heavy plated ware takes but a few minutes; with the gradual saturation of the bath more time is required, and it is readily perceived when the acid must be renewed. The small amount of acid solution adhering to the copper, pre- cipitates its silver when brought into the wa- ter. To obtain its complete removal, the clippings, when raised from the desilveriug bath, and before immersion in water, may be dipped into a second bath prepared in the same manner, which is afterwards to be used in place of the first. The saturated bath, on cooling, congeals to a crystalline semi-fluid mass of sulphate of copper and of soda. The silver is removed by chloride of sodium (com- mon salt) which is added in small portions at a time, while the solution is yet warm. The chloride of silver separates readily, and is washed and reduced in the usual manner. The acid solution contains but a very small por- tion of copper, hardly enough to pay for re- covering. 3721. To Recover Silver from Cop- per. This process is applied to recover the silver from the plated metal, which has been rolled down for buttons, toys, etc., without destroying any large portion of the copper. For this purpose, a dissolving solution is com- posed of 3 pounds oil of vitriol, 1 ounces nitre, and 1 pound water. The plated metal is boiled in it till the silver is dissolved, and then the silver is recovered by throwing com- mon salt into the solution. (See No. 3214.) 3722. Test Fluid for Silver-Plated Goods. For this purpose a testing fluid is prepared by adding pure nitric acid to pow- dered red chromate of potash, and mixing them in such a manner that a part of the latter remains in suspension, the whole being kept well stirred during the mixing. Equal parts by weight of each may be taken. The nitric must be quite free from hydrochloric acid, and have the proper degree of concentration, be- ing neither too fuming nor too dilute ; it should have a specific gravity between 1.20 and 1.25. When the mixture has been pre- pared for a few hours, and been stirred several times, the reddish-colored .liquid is poured off from the residue and kept in a stoppered bottle. 3723. To Test Silver-Plated Goods. The ordinary and very accurate method of testing of silver is founded upon the insolu- bility of chloride of silver in dilute acids and in water. This otherwise satisfactory test is, however, difficult to carry out when an article is very thinly plated. A drop of the test liquid (see last receipt) is then brought in contact with the metal to be tested, and im- mediately washed off again with water. If a visible blood-red spot remains, silver is present. This method requires only the fol- lowing precautions: The metallic surface must have been quite cleansed from grease or varnish with spirits of wine water must be poured over the treated surface before judging of the color, as that of the testing fluid is altered by the metal, and the red precipitate is not distinctly visible until the colored liquid has been washed off. The red spot can afterwards be very easily removed with the finger. By this method the slightest trace of silver in an alloy may be ascertained. "When an article is suspected to be only thinly plated, a very minute drop of the testing fluid should be used. With no other metal or alloy does this red spot, so characteristic of silver, ap- pear; in some cases the testing fluid only corrodes the surface of the metal, whilst in others colored precipitates are formed, which, however, cannot be confounded with those of silver. German silver brought into contact with the testing fluid affords no red spot after being washed. The spot will, however, have been strongly corroded. Britannia metal yields a black spot; zinc is strongly corroded; platinum is not attacked ; lead gives a yellow precipitate; tin is strongly affected by the fluid ; when the brownish-colored testing fluid is washed off, a yellow precipitate is per- ceived, which adheres tightly to the metal ; copper is strongly attacked, a tarnished sur- face of this metal is brightened by the action of the acid. EleCtrO-Gilding. The opera- tion of gilding, or covering other met- als with a coating of gold by the battery, is performed in the same manner as electro- plating, with the exception of a few practical modifications. 3725. To Prepare Chloride of Gold. Dissolve 1 part gold in 3 parts nitro-hydro- chloric acid (aqua regia) ; evaporate until vapors of chlorine begin' to be disengaged, then set the solution aside to crystallize. Aqua regia consists of 1 part nitric acid and 2 parts (both by measure) muriatic (hydro- chloric) acid. If aqua ammonia be added to a solution of gold in aqua regia, it precipitates a reddish- yellow deposit, which may be collected, washed, and dried. This is the ammoniuret of gold, and must be handled and prepared with great caution, it being the fulminate of gold. 3726. To Prepare a Solution of Gold. Add a solution of cyanide of potassium to a solution of chloride of gold (see No. 3725) until all the precipitate is redissolved ; but this gives chloride of potassium in the solu- 346 ELECTRO-GILDING. tion, -which is not good. In the preparation of the solution by this means there are some interesting reactions. As the chloride of gold has always an excess of acid, the addi- tion of cyanide of potassium causes violent effervescence, and no precipitate of gold takes place until all the free acid is neutralized, which causes a considerable loss to the cyanide of potassium. There is always formed in this deposition a quantity of am- monia and carbonic acid, from the deposition of the cyanato of potash ; and if the chloride of gold bo recently prepared, and hot, there is often formed some aurate of ammonia (ful- minate of gold), which precipitates with the cyanide of gold. "Were this precipitate to be collected and dried, it would explode when slightly heated. By previously diluting the chloride of gold, or using it cold, this com- pound is not formed. After the free acid is neutralized by the potash, further addition of the cyanide of potassium precipitates the gold as cyanide of gold, having a light yellow color; but as this is slightly soluble in am- monia and some of the alkaline salts, it is not advisable to wash the precipitate, lest there be a loss of gold. Cyanide of potassium is generally added until the precipitate is redis- solved ; consequently much impurity is formed in the solution, namely, nitrate and carbonate of potash with chloride of potassium and ammonia. Notwithstanding, this solution works very well for a short time, and it is very good for operations on a small scale. 3727. To Prepare Cyanide of Gold. Dissolve 1 ounce of fine gold in 28 penny- weights nitric acid and 2 ounces muriatic acid, and add 1 quart hot water. Precipitate with the second preparation used for cyanide of silver (see No. 3697), and proceed in the same manner. 3728. To Prepare a Solution of Gold. Dissolve 4 troy ounces cyanide of potassium and 1 ounce cyanide of gold in 1 gallon rain or distilled water. This solution is to be used "it about, 00^ Fahr., with a battery of at least two cells. Gold can be deposited, of various shades to suit the taste, by adding to the gold solution a small quantity of the cyanides of silver, copper, or zinc, and a few drops of hydrosulphnret of ammonia. 3729. To Prepare a Gold Solution by the Battery Process. To prepare a gallon of gold solution, dissolve 4 ounces cyanide of potassium in 1 gallon water, and heat the solution to 1CO Fahr. ; now take a small porous cell and fill it with this cyanide solution, and place it inside the gallon of solu- tion ; into this cell is put a small plate of iron or copper, and attached by a wire to the zinc polo of a battery. A piece of gold is placed into the largo solution, facing the plate in the Eorous cell, and attached to the silver of the attery. The whole is allowed to remain in action until the gold, which is to be taken out from time to tirno and weighed, has lost the quantity required in solution. By this means a solution of any strength can bo made, ac- cording to the time allowed. The solution in the porous cell, unless the action has con- tinued long, will have no gold, and may be thrown away. Half an hour will suffice for a small quantity of solution of course any quantity of solution may be made up by the same means. For all the operations of gilding by the cyanide solution, it must be heated to at least 130 Fahr. The articles to be gilt are cleaned in the way described for silver (see No. 3705), but are not dipped into nitric acid previous to being put into the gold solu- tion. 3 or four minutes is sufficient time to gild any small article. After the articles are cleaned and dried they are weighed, and, when gilt, they are weighed again; thus the quantity of gold deposited is ascer- tained. Any convenient means may be adopted for heating the solution. The 'one generally adopted h to put a stoneware pan containing the solution into an iron or tin- plate vessel filled with water, which is kept at the boiling point either by being placed upon a hot plate or over gas. The hotter the solution the less battery power is required. Generally a battery of 3 or 4 cells is used for gilding, and the solution is kept at 130 to 150 Fahr. But 1 cell will answer if the solu- is heated to 200. 3730. Process of Electro-Gilding. The process of gilding is generally performed upon silver articles. The method of proceed- ing is as follows : When the articles are cleaned as described in No. 3705, they are weighed, and well scratched with wire brush- es, which cleanse away any tarnish from the surface, and prevents the formation of air- bubbles. They are then kept m clean water until it is convenient to immerse them in the gold solution. One immersion is then given, which merely imparts a blush of gold ; they are taken out and again brushed ; they- are then put back into the solution and kept there for 3 or 4 minutes, which will be suffi- cient if the solution and battery are in good condition ; but the length of time necessarily depends on these two conditions, which must be studied and regulated by the operator. 3731. To Electro-Gild Iron, Tin, and Lead. Iron, tin, and lead are very difficult to gild direct ; they therefore generally have a thin coating of copper deposited upon them by the cyanide of copper solution (see Nos. 3754 and 3755), tmd immediately put into the gilding solution. 3732. Conditions Required in Electro- Gilding 1 . The gilding solution generally contains from one-half to an ounce of gold in the gallon, but for covering small articles, such as medals, for tinging daguerreotypes, gilding rings, thimbles, etc., a weaker solution will do. The solution should be sufficient in quantity to . gild the articles at once, so that it should not have to be done bit by bit; for when there is a part in tho solution and a part out, there will generally be a line mark at the point touching tho surface of the solu- tion. Tho rapidity with which metals are acted upon at tho surface line cf tho solution is remarkable. If tho positive electrode is not wholly immersed in the solution, it will, in a short time, bq cut through at the surface of the water, a:3 if cut by a knife. This is also the case in silver, copper, and other solu- tions. 3733. To Maintain the Strength of the Gold Solution. As the gold solution evaporates by being hot, distilled water must from time to time be added. The water should always be added when the operation ELECTRO-GILDING. 34=7 of gilding is over, not when it is about to be commenced, or the solution will not give so satisfactory a result. "When the gilding opera- tion is continued successively for several days, the water should be added at night. To ob- tain a deposit of a good color, much depends upon the state of the solution and battery ; it is therefore necessary that strict attention be paid to these, and the more so as the gold so- lution is very liable to change if the size of the article receiving the deposit is not the same as that of the positive electrode plate. The result of a series of observations and ex- periments, continued daily throughout a period of nine months, showed that in five instances only the deposit was exactly equal to the quantity dissolved from the positive plate. In many cases the difference did not exceed 3 per cent., though occasionally it rose to 50 per cent. The average difference, how- ever, was 25 per cent. In some cases double the quantity dissolved was deposited, in others the reverse occurred both resulting from alterations made in the respective pro- cesses ; for in these experiments, the state of tb,e solution and the relative sizes of the neg- ative and positive electrodes were varied, as far as practicable. The most simple method of keeping a constant register of the state of the solution is to weigh the gold electrode before putting it into the solution ; and, when taking it out, to compare the loss with the amount deposited. A little allowance, how- ever, must be made for small portions of metal dissolved in the solution, from the arti- cles that are gilt, which, when gilding is per- formed daily, is considerable in a year. A constant control can thus be exercised over the solution, to which there will have to be added from time to time a little cyanide of potassium, a simple test of requirement being that the gold positive electrode should always come out clean, for if it has a film or crust it is a certain indication that the solution is de- ficient of cyanide of potassium. Care must be taken to distinguish this crust, which is occasionally dark-green or black, from a black appearance, which the gold electrode will take when very small in comparison to the article being gilt, and which is caused by the ten- dency to evolve gas. In this case an addition of cyanide of potassium would increase the evil. The black appearance from the ten- dency to the escape of gas has a slimy ap- pearance. This generally takes place when the solution is nearly exhausted of gold, of which fact this appearance, taken conjointly with the relative sizes of the electrodes, is a sure guide. 3734. To Regulate the Color of the Gilding 1 . The gold upon the gilt article, on coming out of the solution, should be of a dark yellow color, approaching to brown; but this, when scratched (sec No. 3709), will yield a beautifully rich deep gold. If the color is blackish it ought not to bo finished, for it will never either brush or burnish a good color. If the batteiy is too strong, and gas is given off from the article, the color will be black ; if the solution is too cold, or the battery rather weak, the gold will be light-colored ; so that every variety of shade may be impart- ed. A very rich dead gold may be made by adding ammoniuret of gold (see No. 3725) to the solution just as the articles are being put in ; or, what is better, add some sulphuret of carbon in the same way as for silver solutions (see No. 3710), which affects the color and appearance of the gold in the same way as it does the silver. 3735. To Improve the Color of Gild- ing 1 . A defective colored gilding may be im- proved by the help of the following mixture: 3 parts nitrate of potassa (saltpetre), IB parts alum, 1| parts sulphate of zinc, and 1 parts common salt, are put into a small quantity of water, to form a sort of paste, which is put upon the articles to be colored; these are then placed upon an iron plate over a clear fire, so that they will attain nearly to a black heat, when they are suddenly plunged into cold water. This gives them a beautiful high color. Different hues may be had by a varia- tion in the mixture. 3736. To Electro-gild with Bed Gold. Gold having the red color of 14 carat gold may be deposited by the battery in the following manner: Prepare a solution of cyanide of copper by adding cyanide of potas- sium to a solution of sulphate of copper until the precipitate at first thrown down is redis- solved. Add to this a solution of cyanide of gold (see No. 3727) in sufficient quantity to give, on trial, the desired color of gold de- posit. "When using this solution, the positive electrode plate should be of gold of the same color as that desired to be deposited. 3737. Practical Suggestions in Elec- j tro-gilding. According to the amount of ' gold deposited, so will be its durability. A few grains will serve to give a gold color to a very large surface, but it will not last. This proves, however, that the process may be used for the most inferior quality of gilding. Gold thinly laid upon silver will be of a light color, because of the property of gold to transmit light. The solution for gilding sil- ver should be made very hot, but for copper it should be at its minimum heat. A mere blush may be sufficient for articles not subjected to wear; but on watch cases, pencil cases, chains, and the like, a good coating should bo given. An ordinary sized watch case should have from 20 grains to a penny- weight ; a mere coloring will be sufficient for the inside, but the outside should have as much as possible. A watch case thus gilt, for ordinary wear, will last five or six years without becoming bare. Small silver chains should have 12 grains ; pencil cases of ordin- ary size should have from three to five grains ; a thimble from 1 to 2 grains. These sugges- tions will serve as a guide to amateur gilders, many of whom, having imparted only a color to their pencil cases, feel disappointed upon seeing them speedily become bare; hence arises much of the obloquy thrown upon the process. 3738. To Deposit Copper, Silver, or Gold by the Battery on Paper and other Fibrous Material. The whole question is to make the paper a good conductor of elec- tricity without coating it with a material which may peel off. One of the best methods is to take a solution of nitrate of silver, pour in liquid ammonia till the precipitate at first formed is entirely dissolved again, and place the paper, silk, or muslin for one or two hours 34,3 ELECTRO-GILDING. in this solution. After taking it out and dry- ing well, it is exposed to a current of hydrogen gas, by which operation the silver is reduced to a metallic state, and the material becomes so good a conductor of electricity that it may be electroplated with copper, silver, or gold, in the usual manner. 3739. To Dissolve Gold from Gilt Articles. Before regilding articles which are partly covered with gold, or when the gilding is imperfect, and the articles require regilding, the gold should be removed from them by putting them into strong nitric acid ; and when the articles have been placed in the acid, by adding some common salt, not in so- lution, but in crystals. By this method gold may be dissolved from any metal, even from iron, without injuring it in the least. After coming out of the acid, the articles must be polished. The best method, however, is to brash off the gold as described for silver (see No. 3706), which gives the polish at the same time. 3740. To Recover Gold from its Acid Solution. When the acid has become satu- rated by the gold that has been dissolved in it, or when it ceases to dissolve the gold rapidly, it is diluted with several times its bulk of water, and then soda or potash added till the greater portion of the acid is neutralized. A solution of sulphate of iron (copperas) is then added, so long as a precipitate is formed ; when this settles down it is carefully collected upon a paper filter, washed and "dried, and then fused in a crucible with a little borax and common salt, when the gold is found as a button at the bottom of the crucible. "When the gold is brushed off, the brushings are burned at a red heat, and the residue fused with carbonate of soda and a little borax ; in this case, the gold will not be pure, and will have to be refined. 3741. To Separate Gold from Gilt Copper or Silver. Take a solution of borax in water, apply to the gilt surface, and sprinkle over it some finely powdered sul- phur; make the article red hot, and quench it in water; then scrape off the gold, and re- cover it by means of lead. (See No. 3191.) 3742. To Becover Gold from Gilt Articles. Gold may be stripped from arti- cles that have been gilt by placing them in strong nitric acid, in which some salt has been previously dissolved. "When a number of articles have been stripped in the solution, it begins to work slowly, and it is time then to abandon it, and use a new one. The gold may then be recovered from the old solution, by evaporating it to dryness, and fusing the resi- duum with a small piece of soda or potash, the gold being fused into a button. The addi- tion of a little saltpetre will tend to make the refining process more complete. As there is Borne trouble connected with this process, it is scarcely worth adopting where very small quantities of gold are concerned. In such a case it is a better plan to suspend the article, from which the gold is to be removed, in the gilding bath, in the place of the anode, when gilding another article. 3743. Electro-Gilding Without a Battery. Dissolve 9 parts terchloride of gold in 1000 to 2000 parts pure water ; then add 360 parts bicarbonate of potassa, and boil for two hours. The metallic article, if not copper, is covered with a film of copper sim- ultaneously with its being immersed into the boiling gilding liquor, by placing a piece of sheet-copper along with it. As soon as a de- posit of copper is observed, the piece of cop- per is taken out, and the liquor continued boiling until a deep yellow color is obtained. The article is then taken out, washed off with water, and rubbed with a metallic brush. "When the liquor has again become clear by settling and decanting, it is again heated to boiling, the article immersed, while the piece of copper is moved about in the fluid without touching the other. The same operation may be renewed ad libitum, until the desired thick- ness of gold is obtained. 3744. Plating and Gilding Without a Battery. "Watts gives the following very useful solution of silver or gold for plating or gilding without the aid of a battery : Take 1 ounce nitrate of silver, dissolved in 1 quart distilled or rain water. "When thoroughly dissolved, throw in a few crystals of hypo- sulphite of soda, which will at first form a brown precipitate, but which eventually be- comes redissolved if sufficient hyposulphite has been employed. A slight excess of this salt must, however, be added. The solution thus formed may be used for coating small articles of steel, brass, or German silver, by simply dipping a sponge in the solution and rubbing it over the surface of the article to be coated ; the silver becomes so firmly attached to the steel (when the solution has been care- fully made) that it is removed with considera- ble difficulty. A solution of gold may be made in the same way, and applied as described. A concentrated solution of either gold or sil- ver, thus made, may be used for coating parts of articles which have stripped or blistered, by applying it with a camel-hair pencil to the part, and touching the spot at the same time with a thin clean strip of zinc. 3745. To Distinguish Gold from its Imitations. The ordinary method of test- ing gold by the touchstone is founded upon the insolubility of this metal in nitric acid. If a mark be made on the touchstone with the article under examination, the gold is not dis- solved by this acid, whereas golden colored alloys of inferior value are dissolved and dis- appear immediately. "When articles are very thinly gilded, tbs detection of the gold in this manner is uncertain, in which case the following method may bo used with advan- tage. (See No. 3190.) 3746. Test Fluid for Gilded Arti- cles. A little carbonate of copper is put into a test-tube, and to this is added, drop by drop, pure hydrochloric acid, till the blue powder has dissolved to a clear green fluid, occasionally warming it over a spirit lamp. This concentrated solution of chloride of cop- per is diluted for use with from 10 to 11 times its volume of distilled water. 3747. To Test Gilded Articles.- Be- fore testing, the metallic surface must be well cleaned. This can be done effectually by brushing it for a minute or two with a little spirits of wine, or, better, with absolute al- cohol. The surface having dried, a little of the testing fluid (see last receipt) is dropped on and allowed to remain in contact for about ELECTROPLATING WITH VARIOUS METALS. a minute. The fluid is then removed by means of a small pipette, and the surface of the metal completely dried -with bibulous paper ; if no dark spot be then visible, the ar- ticle is coated with pure gold. If the metallic surface is but lightly gilded, a very slight blackening is sometimes remarked, which may throw a doubt upon the result. In such a case, to make quite certain, a little of the surface may be scraped off, and then the test- ing fluid again applied. If a dark spot is then perceived, the article may be considered as very thinly gilded. T^lectroplating with. Va- - J -- J riO11S MetalS. The following receipts furnish the means of coating objects with tin, zinc, brass, German silver, and other metals. 3749. To Electroplate Copper, Brass, or German Silver, with Aluminum, take equal measures of sulphuric acid and water, or take 1 measure each sulphuric and hydrochloric acids and 2 measures water ; add to the water a small quantity of pipe-clay, in the proportion of 5 or 10 grains by weight to every ounce by measure of water (or k ounce to the pint). Rub the clay with the water until the two are perfectly mixed, then add the acid to the clay solution, and boil the mixture in a covered glass vessel 1 hour. Allow the liquid to settle, take the clear, supernatant solution, while hot, and immerse in it an earthen por- ous cell, containing a mixture of one measure of sulphuric acid and ten measures of water, together with a rod or plate of amalgamated zinc; take a small Smee's battery of 3 or 4 cells, and connect its positive pole by a wire with the piece of zinc in the porous cell. Having perfectly cleaned the surface of the article to be coated, connect it by a wire with the negative pole of the battery, and immerse it in the hot clay solution; immediately abundance of gas will be evolved from the whole of the immersed surface of the article, and in a few minutes, if the size of the article is adapted to the quantity of the current of electricity passing through it, a fine white de- posit of aluminum will appear all over the surface. It may then be taken out, washed quickly in clean water, and wiped dry, and polished ; but if a thicker coating is required, it must be taken out when the deposit becomes dull in appearance, washed, dried, polished, find reimmersed; and this must be repeated at intervals, as often as it becomes dull, until the required thickness is obtained. "With small articles it is not absolutely neces- sary that a separate battery be employed, as the article to be coated may be connected, as in the one cell method (see No. 3669), by a wire with the piece of zinc in the porous cell, and immersed in the outer liquid, when it will receive a deposit, but more slowly than when a battery is employed. 3750. To Electroplate with Tin. Tin is easily deposited from a solution of proto- chloride of tin. If the two poles or electrodes be kept about 2 inches apart, a most beautiful phenomenon may be observed. The decom- position of the solution is so rapid that it shoots .out from the negative electrode like feelers, towards the positive, which it reaches in a few seconds. The space between the poles seems like a mass of crystallized threads, and the electric current passes through them without affecting further decomposition. So tender are these metallic threads that when lifted out of the solution they fall upon the plate like cobweb. Seen through a glass they exhibit a beautiful crystalline structure. Tin may also be deposited from its solution in caustic potash or soda. 3751. Galvanic Tinning. M. Mais- trasse-Dupr6, it appears, had been commis- sioned by the French government to apply, by galvanic means, tin upon divers objects which had been made of so-called galvanized iron that is, iron covered with zinc. To this purpose he applied galvanic elements made of copper and zinc plates, the length of which is 48 inches, the width 28 inches, placed in a leaden trough and separated and isolated by means of wooden partitions. The copper sheet was immersed in a mixture of equal parts of acetate of lead and common salt, and the zinc element was placed in weak sulphuric acid, specific gravity 1.060. This battery re- mains in constant action and working order for 8 days, at an outlay of only 2 francs. When the objects which are galvanically tinned are afterwards heated to the melting point of tin, the goodness and durability of hot-tinned materials is thus obtained. Copper thus tinned (galvanically), and afterwards heated, is superficially converted into bell metal, while the method of tinning galvan- ically has the great advantage over the old method, that it can be applied to objects to which the method of tinning in ordinary use is not applicable. 3752. To Electroplate with Brass. Brass can be deposited when the solution is composed of 1 part sulphate of copper in 4 parts hot water, 8 parts sulphate of zinc in 16 parts of hot water, 18 parts cyanide of potas- sium in 36 parts of hot water. These are mixed, and 250 parts of water added. Instead of a copper positive electrode plate, one of brass is necessary ; the solution is required to be kept nearly boiling, and a powerful battery to be used. 3753. To Prepare Cyanides of Cop- per and Zinc. For copper, dissolve 1 ounce of sulphate of copper in 1 pint of hot water. For zinc, dissolve 1 ounce of the sulphate of zinc in 1 pint of hot water, and proceed the same as for cyanide of silver. (See No. 3697.) 3754. Cyanide Solution of Copper or Zinc. Dissolve 8 ounces (troy)' cyanide of potassium, and 3 ounces cyanide of copper or zinc in 1 gallon of rain or distilled water. They should be used at about 160 Fahr.; with a compound battery of 3 to 12 cells. 3755. Cyanide Solution of Copper. To prepare copper solutions by means of cyanide of potassium, for covering iron and other positive metals, there are several meth- ods, but the method adopted in manufacturing purposes is as follows : To a solution of sul- phate of copper, add a solution of ferrocyanide of potassium (yellow prussiate of potassa), so long as a precipitate continues to be form- ed ; this is allowed to settle, and, the clear liquor being decanted, the vessel is filled with 350 ELECTROPLATING WITH VARIOUS METALS. water, and when the precipitate settles, the liquor is again decanted, and these -washings are repeated until the sulphate of potash is washed quite out. This is known by adding a little chloride of barium to a small quantity of the washings ; if no white precipitate is formed by this test, the precipitate is suffi- ciently washed. A solution of cyanide of potassium is now added to this precipitate until it is dissolved, during which process the solution becomes warm by the chemical reac- tion that takes place. The solution is filtered, and allowed to repose all night. If the solu- tion of cyanide of potassium that is used is strong, the greater portion of the ferrocj'anide of potassium crystallizes in the solution, and may be collected and preserved for use again. If the solution of cyanide of potassium used to dissolve the precipitate is dilute, it will be necessary to condense the liqnor by evapora- tion, to obtain the yellow prussiate in crys- tals ; the remaining solution is the coppering solution. Should it not be convenient to separate the yellow prussiate by crystalliza- tion, the presence of that salt in the solution docs not interfere with its power of depositing copper. 3756. To Prepare Iron for Coating with Copper. When it is required to cover an iron article with copper, it is first steeped in hot caustic potash or soda, to remove any grease or oil. Being washed from that, it is placed for a short time in dilute sulplraric acid, consisting of about 1 part of acid to 1G parts water, which removes any oxide that may exist. It is then washed in water, and scoured with sand till the surface is perfectly clean, and finally attached to the battery, and im- mersed in the cyanide solution. (See No. 3755.) All this must be done with dispatch, so as to prevent the iron combining with oxygen. An immersion of five minutes' dura- tion in the cyanide solution is sufficient to deposit upon the iron a film of copper. But it is necessary to the complete protection of the iron, that it should have a tolerably thick coating ; and, as the cyanide process is expen- sive, it is preferable, when the iron has re- ceived a film of copper by the cyanide solu- tion, to take it out, wash it in water, and attach it to a single cell or weak battery, and put it into a solution of sulphate of copper, if there is any part not sufficiently covered with copper by the cyanide solution, the sul- phate will make these parts of a dark color, which a touch of the finger will remove. "When such is the case, the article must be taken out, scoured, and put again into the cyanide solution till perfectly covered. A little practice will render this very easy. The sulphate solution, when used for covering iron, should be prepared by adding to it by degrees a little caustic soda, so long as the precipitate formed is redissolved. This neutralizes a great portion of the sulphuric acid, and thus the iron is not so readily acted upon. 3757. To Coat Iron with Zinc. In covering iron with zinc, the precautions ne- cessary for copper are not required; zinc being the positive metal, acids have a stronger affinity for it than for iron, and therefore an acid solution may be used. The solution gen- erally used is the sulphate, used in the same way as sulphate of copper. (See No. 3661.) 3758. Test for Galvanized Iron. TVhen zinc is deposited on iron by galvanic agency, it should form a chemical combination with the iron, and not be merely attached thereto. It is proposed by Mr. T. Bruce "Wan-en, of England, to use this fact for prac- tically testing the efficiency of the galvanrza- tion. If mercury be poured over the surface, the zinc that is only locally attached will form an amalgam with the mercury. Mr. "Wan-en also uses this as a quantitative test, to verify the amount of zinc in combination with the iron. 3759. To Make a Cyanide Solution of Brass. Dissolve 1 pound (troy) cyanide of potassium, 2 ounces cyanide of copper, and 1 ounce cyanide of zinc, in 1 gallon rain or distilled water ; then add 2 ounces muriate of ammonia. This solution is to be used at 160 Fahr. on smooth work, with a compound battery of 3 to 12 cells. 3 760. Electroplating with Platinum. This metal has never t yet been successfully deposited as a protecting coating to other metals. A solution may be made by dissolv- ing it in a mixture of nitric and muriatic acids, the same as is employed in dissolving gold ; but heat must be applied. The solu- tion is then evaporated to dryness, and to the remaining mass is added a solution of cyanide of potassium ; next, it must be slightly heated for a short time, and then filtered. This solu- tion, evaporated, yields beautiful crystals of cyanide of platinum and potassium ; but it is unnecessary to crystallize the salt. A very weak batteiy power is required to deposrt the metal; the solution should be heated to 100. Great care must be taken to obtain a fine metallic deposit ; indeed, the operator may not succeed once in twenty times in getting more than a mere coloring of metal over the surface, and that not very adhesive. The causes of the difficulty arc probably these : the platinum used as an electrode is not acted upon ; the quantity of salt in solution is very little; it requires a particular battery strength to give a good deposit, and the slightest strength beyond this gives a black deposit; so that, were the proper relations obtained, whenever there is any deposit, the relations of battery and solution are changed, and the black pulverulent deposit follows. 3761. Electroplating with Palladium. Palladium is a metal very easily deposited. The solution is prepared by dissolving the metal in nitro-muriatic acid, and evaporating the solution nearly to dryness ; then adding cyanide of potassium till the whole is dis- solved; the solution is then filtered and ready for use. The cyanide of potassium holds a large quantity of this metal in solution, and the electrode is acted upon while the deposit is proceeding. Articles covered with this metal assume the appearance of the metal ; but so far as wo are aware, it has not j'et been applied to any practical purpose. It requires rather a thick deposit to protect metals from the action of acids, which is, probably, the only use it can be applied to. 3762. Electroplating with Nickel. Nickel is very easily deposited, and may be prepared for this purpose by dissolving it in nitric acid, then adding cyanide of potassium to precipitate the metal ; after which the pre- ELECTROPLATING WITH VAEIOUS METALS. 351 cipitate is washed and dissolved by the ad- dition of more cyanide of potassium. Or the nitrate solution may be precipitated by car- bonate of potash ; this should be well washed, and then dissolved in cyanide of potassium; a proportion of carbonate of potash will be in the solution, which has not been found to be detrimental. The metal is very easily depos- ited ; it yields a color approaching to silver, which is not liable to tarnish on exposure to the air. A coating of this metal would be very useful for covering common work, such as gasaliers, and other gas-fittings, and even common plate. The great difficulty experi- enced is to obtain a positive electrode : the metal is very difficult to fuse, and so brittle that we have never been able to obtain either a plate or a sheet of it. Could this difficulty be easily overcome, the application of nickel to the coating of other metals would' be ex- tensive, and the property of not being liable to tarnish would make it eminently useful for all general purposes. 3763. Nagel's Method of Electroplat- ing with Nickel. A process devised by Mr. Nagol, of Hamburg, for coating iron, steel, and other oxidizable metals with an electro deposit of nickel or cobalt, consists in taking 4 parts, by weight, of pure sulphate of the protoxide of nickel by crystallization, and 2 parts, by weight, of pure ammonia, so as to form a double salt, which is then dissolved in 60 parts of distilled water, and 12 parts of am- moniacal solution of the specific gravity of , .903 added. The electro deposit is effected by an ordinary galvanic current, using a platinum positive pole, 4&e^jolt'~~ -iee*-Faar. The strength of the galvanic current is regulated according to the number of objects to be coated. 3764. To Protect Steel from Rusting. It has been found by experiment that au elec- tro-deposited coating of nickel protects the surface of polished steel completely from rust. Swords, knives, and other articles of steel liable to exposure, may be coated with nickel without materially altering the color of the metal. 3765. To Protect Copper and Brass. Copper and brass are equally well protected by nickel (see No. 3764), but, of course, with change of color on the surface. The nickel facing, when buruished, has a whiter color than polished steel, but not as white as silver, being nearer in appearance to platinum. 3766. Nagel's Method of Electroplat- ing Metal with Cobalt. For coating with cobalt, 13d parts, by weight, of pure sulphate of cobalt, are combined with 69 parts of pure ammonia, to form a double salt, which is then dissolved in 1000 parts of distilled water, and 120 parts of amrnouiacal solution, of the same specific gravity as before, are added. The process of deposition with cobalt is the same as with nickel. (See No. 3763.) 3767. To Electroplate with Silicium. In the following manner, a coating of silicium can be obtained direct from silica : Take the following proportions : o'once, by measure, of hydrofluoric acid, ounce hydrochloric acid, and 40 or 50 grains either of precipitated silica, or of fine white sand (the former dis- solves most freely), and boil the whole together for a few minutes, until no more silica is dis- solved. Use this solution exactly in the same manner as the clay solution (see No. 3767), and a fine white deposit of metallic silicium. will be obtained, provided that the size of the article is adapted to the quantity of the elec- tric current. Common red sand, or, indeed, any kind of silicious stone, finely powdered, may be used in place of the white sand, and with equal success, if it be previously boiled in hydrochloric acid, to remove the red oxido of iron or other impurities. In depositing both aluminum and silicium, it is necessary to well saturate the acid with the solid ingre- dients by boiling, otherwise very little deposit of metal will be obtained. 3768. To Prepare a Brass Solution. For each gallon of water used to make the so- lution, take 1 pound carbonate of ammonia, 1 pound cyanide of potassium, 2 ounces cyanide of copper, and 1 ounce cyanide of zinc. This constitutes the solution for the decomposing cell. It may bo prepared, also, from the above proportions of carbonate of ammonia and cyanide of potassium, by immersing in it a large sheet of brass of the desired quality, ana making it the anode or positive electrode of a powerful galvanic battery or magneto- electric machine ; and making a small piece of metal the cathode or negative electrode, from which hydrogen must be freely evolved. This operation is continued till . the solution has taken up a sufficient quantity of the bras", to produce a regnline deposit. 3769. To Electroplate with Brass. The solution (see No. 3768) may be used cold ; but it is desirable, in many cases, to heat it (according to the nature of the articles to be deposited upon) to 212 Fahr. For wrought or fancy work, about 150 Fahr. will give excellent results. The galvanic bat- tery, or magneto-electric machine, must be capable of evolving hydrogen freely from the cathode or negative electrode, or article at- tached thereto. It is preferred to have a large anode or positive electrode, as this favors tho evolution of hydrogen. The article or articles treated as before described will immediately become coated with brass. By continuing the process, any desired thickness may be ob- tained. Should the copper have a tendency to come down in a greater proportion than is desired, which may be known by the deposit assuming too red an appearance, it is correct- ed by the addition of carbonate of ammonia, or by a reduction of temperature, when the solution is heated. Should the zinc have a tendency to come down in too great a propor- tion, which may be seen by the deposit being too pale in its appearance, this is corrected by the addition of cyanide of potassium or by an increase of temperature. 3770. To Electroplate with German Silver. The alloy, German silver, is deposit- ed by means of a solution consisting of car- bonate of ammonia and cyanide of potassium (in the proportions given above for the brass), and cyanides or other compounds of nickel, copper, and zinc, in the requisite proportions to constitute German silver. It is, however, preferred to make the solution by means of the galvanic battery or magneto-electric machine, as above described for brass. Should the copper of the German silver come down in too great a proportion, this is corrected by 352 BEONZING, adding carbonate of ammonia, which brings down the zinc more freely ; and should it be necessary to bring down the copper in greater quantity, cyanide of potassium is added such treatment being similar to that of the brass before described. Bronzing. This is the process of giving a bronze-like or an antique metallic appearance to the surface of copper, brass, and other metals. This is generally effected by the action of some substance which combines with and changes the nature of the surface of the metal. The application of powdered bronzing substances, made to adhere by sizing, s. 80 and 81. "With the bases it forms CITRATES. 3933. To Prepare Citric Acid. Add 4;j ounces chalk by degrees to 4 pints lemon juice, heated, and mix; set by, that the pow- der may precipitate ; afterwards pour oft' the supernatant liquor. "Wash the precipitated citrate of lime frequently with warm water; then pour upon it 27 fluid ounces diluted sul- ACIDS. 369 phuric acid and 2 pints distilled "water, and boil for 15 minutes ; press the liquor strongly through a linen cloth, and filter it. Evapor- ate the filtered liquor with a gentle heat, and set it aside that crystals may lorni. To obtain the crystals pure, dissolve them in water a second and a third time ; filter each solution, evaporate, and set it apart to crystallize. The preparation of citric acid has become an im- portant branch of chemical manufacture, from the large consumption of this article in va- rious operations in the arts. In conducting this process some little expertness and care are necessary to ensure success. The chalk employed should be dry, and in fine powder, and be added to the juice until it be perfectly neutralized, and the quantity consumed must be exactly noted. The precipitated citrate of lime should be well washed with water, and the sulphuric acid diluted with 6 or 8 times its weight of water, poured upon it while still warm, and thoroughly mixed with it. The agitation must be occasionally renewed for 8 or 10 hours, when the dilute citric acid must be poured off, and the residuum of sulphate of lime thoroughly washed with warm water, and the washings added to the dilute acid. The latter must then be poured off from the impurities that may have been deposited, and evaporated in a leaden boiler, over the naked fire, until it acquires a specific gravity of 1.13, when the process must be continued at a lower temperature until a pellicle appears upon the surface, This part of the process requires great attention and judgment, as, if not properly conducted, the whole batch may be carbonized and spoiled. At this point the evaporation must be stopped, and the concen- trated solution emptied into warm and 'clean crystallizing vessels, set in a dry apartment, where the thermometer does not fall below temperate. At the end of 4 days the crystals will be ready to remove from the pans, when they must be well drained, redissolved in as little water possible, and, after being allowed to stand for a few hours to deposit impurities, again evaporated and crystallized. When the process has been well managed, the acid of the second crystallization will usually be suffi- ciently pure ; but if this be not the case, a third, or even a fourth crystallization must bo had recourse to. The mother liquors from the several pans are collected together, and, by evaporation, yield a second or third crop of crystals obtained by evaporation as before. Citric acid crystallizes with great case, but in some cases, where all the citrate of lime has not undergone decomposition by the sul- phuric acid, a little of that salt is taken up by the free citric acid, and materially ob- structs the crystallization. This is best avoided by exactly apportioning the quantity of the sulphuric acid to that of the chalk used, always remembering that it requires a quantity of liquid sulphuric acid, containing exactly 40 parts of dry acid, to decompose 50 parts of carbonate of lime. Commercial sul- phuric acid is usually of the specific gravity of 1.845; it will therefore take exactly 49 pounds of this acid for 50 pounds of chalk. In practice it is found that a very slight ex- cess of sulphuric acid is better than leaving any citrate of lime undecomposed. The first crop of crystals is called " brown citric acid/' and is much used by the calico printers. Sometimes a little nitric acid is added to the solution of the colored crystals, for the pur- pose of whitening them, but in this way a minute quantity of oxalic acid is formed. Good lemon juice yields fully 5 per cent, of lemon acid, or 2 gallons yield about 1 pound of crystals. If the imported citrate of lime be used, a given quantity must be heated to redness, and then weighed, when the percent- age of lime present will be ascertained; every 28 pounds of which will require 49 pounds of sulphuric acid of 1.845 (or a corres- ponding quantity containing exactly 40 parts of dry acid) for its complete decomposition. 3934. Tests for the Purity of Citric Acid. "WTien pure, it does not yield a crys- talline precipitate when added in excess to a solution of carbonate of potassa ; such a pre- cipitate indicates the presence of tartaric acid. It is entirely soluble in water, and what is thrown down by acetate of lead from this so- lution, is entirely soluble in dilute nitric acid. N"o salt of potassa, except the tartrate, yields a precipitate with the aqueous solution. It is entirely decomposed by heat ; added sparingly to cold lime water, it does not render it tur- bid, and when a few drops of a solution of citric acid are added to lime water, a clear liquid results, which, when heated, deposits a white powder, soluble in acids without ef- fervescence. 3935. Arsenious Acid. This is the arsenic or white arsenic of commerce, im- ported chiefly from Germany, also manufac- tured in quantity in Cornwall, England. It consists or large, glassy, colorless or yellowish- white, semi-transparent cakes or porcelain- like masses, which soon become opaque on their exterior, and sometimes friable and pulverulent. The transparent arsenic is found to be more than three times as soluble in water at 55 Fahr. than the opaque. In taste it is slightly sweetish, with a slight acidity and astringency, not perceived until some minutes after being swallowed, hence its dangerous character as a poison. Crude arsenic is obtained, as a collateral product, during the smelting' of cobalt ores. Pure arsenic is obtained from the crude, by a second sublimation in cast-iron vessels. The arsenic, as imported, has usually been thus purified; and, unless otherwise adulterated, j is sufficiently pure for general purposes. It , is sometimes kept in fine powder, and in this state is occasionally found adulterated with powdered lime or chalk ; it is, therefore, bet- ter to purchase it in the lump. The salts of arsenious acid are called ARSENITES. 3936. Self -Detecting Arsenious Acid. By adding a small quantity of any of the following substances to ordinary white arsenic, the mixture changes color when mixed with liquids. This is proposed as a method of preventing mistake in the use of this poisonous article. The addition of a small quantity of a mix- ture of dry calomel and quicklime to the arsenic turns black when mixed with a liquid. A mixture of thoroughly dry sulphate of iron and ferrocyanido of potassium turns it blue. Dry sulphate of iron and dry sulphate of soda turns green. 370 ACIDS. 3937. Tests for the Presence of Ar- senious Acid. A weak solution of ani- monio-acetate of copper added to a solution of white arsenic (arsenious acid) throws down a grass green precipitate of arsenite of copper (Scheele's green) This precipitate, after being washed, is soluble in nitric acid, and in ammonia; is turned a brownish-red by a solution of sulphuretted hydrogen, blood-red by ferrocyanide of potassium, and yellow by nitrate of silver. Arsenious acid in solution throws down a yellow precipitate of arsenite of silver from a solution of ammonio-nitrate of silver. There arc a number of delicate tests em- ployed for detecting the presence of arsenic m organic matter, such as the contents of the stomach or other viscera, all more or less involving the preparation of the matter before applying the tests, and requiring the manipu- lation of an experienced analytical chemist. A very susceptible test, and recommended by Cooley for its simplicity, is as follows : A so- lution of the suspected matter is strongly acidulated with muriatic acid in the pro- portion of 1 part muriatic acid to from 5 to 9 parts of the solution; this is boiled in a porcelain or glass vessel containing bright and clean metallic copper in the form of sheet, gauze, or wire. In about 15 minutes, if the solution be weak, or less, if strong, presence of arsenic will be noted by the characteristic iron-gray film of arsenic de- posited on the surface of the copper. The copper, having been carefully washed and dned, may bo cut into small pieces and heated in a test tube over a spirit lamp, when the metallic arsenic is volatilized, and will be con- densed either in metallic form or in crystals of arsenious acid. This is known as Eensch's test 3938. Arsenic Acid. An acid formed by the combination of metallic arsenic with oxygen. It is sour, reddens litmus, and forms salts with the bases, which arc termed ARSENIATES. By careful evaporation it may be obtained under the form of small grains, but usually has the consistence of syrup, be- ing very deliquescent. 3939. To Obtain Arsenic Acid. Pour 6 parts of strong nitric acid on 1 part of white arsenic (arsenious acid) in a glass vessel, and distill until the solution acquires the consist- ence of a syrup, then transfer it into a platina crucible, and expose it for some time to a faint dull red heat, to expel the nitric acid. The addition of a little muriatic acid facilitates the process. 3940. Tests for the Presenfce of Ar- senic Acid. Sulphuretted hydrogen gives a yellow precipitate ; nitrate of silver adde(3 to the solution of an arseniate gives a pre- cipitate of a brick red color ; nitrate of lead gives a white one, and the salts of copper a uluish colored one. Pure lump sugar dis- solved in an aqueous solution of arsenic acid, becomes in a few hours of a reddish color, anc afterwards of a magnificent purple. For some test purposes it will be advisable to adc sulphurous acid to the suspected liquor, anc boil it for a short time, when the arsenic acid will be reduced to arsenious acid, in which stato it will be susceptible of more delicate tests. (See No. 3937.) 3941. Manganesic Acid also called 'crmanganic acid may be obtained by mix- ug 8 parts of binoxide of manganese with 7 >arts of chlorate of potassa, both in fine pow- ler, adding 10 parts of hydrate of potassa, dissolved in a small quantity of water, evap- irating to dryness, powdering, exposing the >owder to a low red heat in a platinum cruci- )le, dissolving the mass in a large quantity of water, decanting, evaporating, and crystalliz- ng. These crystals are permanganate of po- tassa, from which the acid may be obtained by conversion into permanganate of baryta, and by careful decomposition by dilute sul- phuric acid. (Gregory.) It has a fine red lolor, bleaches, and is rapidly decomposed by organic matter. It unites with some of the jases to form PERMANGANATES. 3942. Benzoic Acid. This is also called flowers of benzoin or benjamin. It has ;he form of white crystalline needles of a silky lustre, possessing an agreeable odor. Benzoic acid fuses at 230 Fahr., is volatile when heated, dissolves sparingly in cold wa- ter, with less difficulty in boiling water, and very freely in alcohol. Its salts are called BENZOATES. 3943. To Obtain Benzoic Acid. Put oarsely triturated benzoin into an iron pot with a flat bottom, whose diameter is from 8 to 9 inches; the benzoin forming therein a layer of from 1 to 2 inches in depth. The open end of the pot is then to be covered with a sheet of soft and loose blotting-paper, which must bo attached to the rim with paste. A cone, formed with strong and thick .paper, (cartridge paper), is then to be capped over the top of the pot, including the blotting paper; and this is also to be attached with paste and string. The apparatus, thus pre- pared, should then bo placed on the sand- bath, and exposed from 4 to 6 hours to a gentle heat. After this lapse of time, it may be removed from the sand-bath, inverted, and the string detached, when beautiful white needles, of a silky lustre, possessing the agreeable odor of benzoic acid, will bo found in the paper cone. 3944. To Obtain Anhydrous Benzoic Acid. Add oxychloride of phosphorus to an excess of beuzoate of soda ; agitate together, and wash the mixture with boiling water. The anhydrous benzoic acid sinks like a heavy oil, and crystallizes on cooling. 3945. Chromic Acid. This consists of acicular crystals of a crimson-red color and an acid metallic taste, deliquescent, and very soluble in water, forming an orange-yellow solution. With the bases this acid forms CHROMATES. Chromate of lead forms the pigment known as chrome-yellow. 3946. To Obtain Chromic Acid. Take 10 measures of a saturated cold solution of bichromate of potassa, mix with it 15 mea- sures sulphuric acid, and allow the mixture to cool. The chromic acid is deposited in crys- tals, which, after decanting the mother liquid, are placed on a tile to drain, covered with a bell glass. 3947. Hydrocyanic Acid. This is also called prussic acid, and consists of a thin, colorless, and volatile liquid, having a strong odor of peach kernels. It boils at 79 Fahr. and solidifies at 45; its specific gravity is A CIDS. 371 .7058. It constitutes one of the most deadly poisons known. Its salts are HYDROCYAN- ATES and METALLIC CYANIDES. Prussic acid, even when dilute, is very liable to sponta- neous decomposition, and this speedily- occurs when it is exposed to the light. To promote its preservation, it is usual to surround the bottles containing it with thick purple paper, and to keep them inverted in an obscure sit- uation. The addition of a very small quan- tity of muriatic acid renders it much less liable to change, and is generally made by manufacturers for that purpose. 3948. To Obtain Anhydrous Prussic Acid. Pure crystallized ferrocyanide of po- tassium, 15 parts ; water and sulphuric acid. of each 9 parts ; distill in a glass retort into a well-cooled receiver, containing chloride of calcium in coarse fragments, 5 parts; stop the process as soon as the chloride in the re- ceiver is perfectly covered by the distilled fluid, and decant the acid into a bottle fur- nished with a good stopper. Keep it in the dark, with the bottle inverted. 3949. Dilute Prussic Acid. Mix 41 grains muriatic acid with 1 fluid ounce dis- tilled water, add 50| grains cyanide of silver, and shake together in a well stopped phial. When the precipitate has subsided, pour off the clear dilute acid and keep for use. (See No. 3947.) (U. S. Ph.) 3950. Tests for the Presence of Prus- sic Acid. It is distinguished by a strong odor of bitter almonds. Neutralized by potash, and tested with a solution of sulphate or tincture of iron, it gives a blue precipitate, or one turning blue on the addition of dilute sulphuric or muriatic acid. This test may be applied by spreading a single drop of solution of potassa over the bottom of a white saucer or porcelain capsule, and inverting it over another vessel of the same size containing the matter under exam- ination. After 2 to 5 minutes remove the upper capsule ; add to the potassa upon it, a single drop of a solution of sulphate or tinc- ture of iron, and expose it to the air for a few seconds. Next add 1 or 2 drops of dilute sulphuric acid, when a blue color will bo de- veloped if hydrocyanic acid is present in the matter tested. Nitrate of silver gives a white clotty pre- cipitate, soluble in boiling nitric acid; and which, when dried and heated in a test tube, evolves fumes of cyanogen, which burn with a violet or bluish colored flame. A watch glass, moistened with this test and inverted over matter containing hydrocyanic acid, be- comes opaque and white from the formation of cyanide of silver. Liebig's test is considered the most delicate. Moisten a watch- gkiss or porcelain capsule with 1 or 2 drops of yellow hydrosulphuret of ammonia ; invert it over the matter as before, and after a few miuutes dry it with a gentle heat. A glass rod dipped in a solution of a persalt or sesquisalt of iron, drawn over the glass, will form a blood-red streak if the smallest quantity of hydrocyanic acid is pres- ent. (Coolei/.) 3951. Test for the Strength of Prus- sic Acid. For estimating the strength of the commercial acid the following plan, pro- posed by Dr. Ure, will be found very exact ! and convenient. To 100 grains, or any other convenient quantity of the acid contained in a small phial, add in succession, small quan- tities of the peroxide of mercury in fine powder, till it ceases to bo dissolved on agita- tion. The weight of the red precipitate taken up being divided by 4, gives a quotient repre- senting the quantity of real prussic acid present. By weighing out beforehand, on a piece of paper or a watch-glass, 40 or 50 grains of the peroxide, the residual weight of it shows at once the quantity expended. The operation may be always completed in five minutes, for the red precipitate dissolves as rapidly in the dilute prussic acid, with the aid of slight agitation, as sugar dissolves in wa- ter. Should the presence of muriatic acid be suspected, then the difference in the volatility of prussiate and muriate of ammonia may be had recourse to with advantage; the former exhaling at a very gentle heat, the latter re- quiring a subliming temperature of about 300 Fahr. After adding ammonia in slight excess to the prussic acid, if we evaporate to dryness at a heat of 212, wo may infer from the residuary sal-ammoniac the quantity of muriatic acid present. Every grain of sal- ammoniac corresponds to .6822 grains of mu- riatic acid. 3952. Cyanic Acid. A compound of cyanogen and oxygen only known in its hydrated state in combination with 1 equiva- lent of water. It combines with bases to form CYANATES. "When in contact with wa- ter for a few hours it suffers decomposition, and is converted into bicarbonate of ammonia. It cannot be preserved for any length of time, as it soon passes spontaneously into a white, opaque, solid mass, to which the name of cyamelide has been given, which may be re- converted into cyanic acid by distillation. It reddens litmus strongly. 3953. To Obtain Cyanic Acid. Distill dry cyanuric acid, or cyamelide, in a retort, and collect the product in a well-cooled re- ceiver. It is also formed when cyanogen is transmitted over carbonate of potassa heated to redness ; a cyanate of potassa re- sults. Or : Pass a current of sulphuretted hydro- gen gas through water in which cyanate of silver is diffused. The sulphuretted hydro- gen must not be passed so long as to decom- pose all the cyanate of silver; for then the cyanic acid is converted into other products by the excess of the sulphuretted hydrogen. 3954. Hydroferridcyanic Acid. This is sometimes written liydroferricyanic acid, and is a compound of ferridcyanogen and hydrogen. With the oxides of metals this acid forms FERRIDCYANIDES ; the ferrid- cyanide of potassium is the red prussiate of potash used in the arts. 3955. To Obtain Hydroferridcyanic Acid. Prepared by decomposing recently precipitated ferridcyanide of lead by sul- phuretted by hydrogen, or by sulphuric acid carefully added. A yellow solution is thus obtained, which yields a deep brown powder when evaporated by heat, or yellow Crystals by spontaneous evaporation. 3956. Hydroferrocyanic Acid. A peculiar compound of cyanogen, hydrogen, and iron, discovered by M. Po'rret, and called It consists of white crystal*, soluble in Arid. It maybe mfliuVsolutiou out of contact with tbe muriatic add added in excuw. Themix- tur is thu agitated with afittfe ether, which tcparatot the add; the latter is collected by iteration, and dried. I Lactic Acid. This is a limpid. fiquid, colorless or of a paw wine color, with a slight odor and very sour taste, R is feund m sour milk, and coma other ani- malftaH^ and mseval vegetable jukes. **K penally in that of beet-root. It unites with U^tefenaiACTAtm. To Ofctam Lactic Arid. of 3M4. Perchloric Acid. A eotatfes* Kqttid oT about IM speeifi* gravity, whieh fumes sfichtly in tk* air, attract moisture* and distills unchanged at about 39F Fahr. With bases it forms pntcauv 396S. To Obtain Perchloric Arid. To finely powdered perchlorate of potass* n a retort,, add about its weight ^j sulphuric add, previously diluted an equal weight of water. At about vapors of pwhlonci add pass ov^er and condense in the receiver. (tVMwy.) US* organic matter should be used as a lute forthejointsofthei balk; . aod filter, and On* satwate it Tbk coBTHta tb krtic Kfiltend anla aad]e- cnttated bToxafie Mid, vbidkfbravs dowu oahteof Inteand tsfn tbe hetia and. cal is agam fiitercd, and tbe filtrate of a solatia* of netfe and, containing Sext nnautaata tha solution to a , and treat it with alcohol, and and precipitates all tbe The solution bfinalrr filtered and the lactic and obtained pura by d affthe alcohol (F.&XK*,) i** . _ _. *riiK strictly fcudri. of hydrogen and tnorine. Its name time at a low beat, it is converted into ptarmmuKe or Jf*m*ri na; and when quickly distilled, it yields K* while fumark add isj ~' s." The wefl known mineral. jUwr- *rm*, is a ftaoude cf calcium. Fluoric and readily dissolves glass and sttka, hence it is t lead, saver, platinum,, or it a a* in exposed to tbe air. and u fhwr-gaarwith twice its weight ofotfof vitriol m a leaden, or better, a liver alembic, the pipe of whkh fits into a bottle of the matt-rial, iiwnilai with lee. But as it is ly reauired in a diluted state, water ia weight to the spar may be put into the receiver. Grant care must be taken, as the arid, both in 3a gnawua and Bquid farm, Chloric Arid. This is a yellow ish fiquid, tmnltiug fike nitric add; it eete fire to paper or other dry organic matter. It BacouqMandofn^knnttanilxygn,and in 908SL To Obtain Ghloric Arid. Bn- aatro cttoeate of baryta in 16 times its weigh of water; thmattdiratesciphnrieadd until all the baryta be precipitated as sulphate. "I by eraputatian to a tbia, ofly onmamtanf < , Bquid add with oU of vitriol at a gentle heat, crystals of perchloric arid will be deposited on the neek of the retort and in the receiver. These crystals fuse at 113? and are very dehquescent. (Jtoatik.) ft. Butyric Acid. A thin, colorless, Squid, soluble la water and alcohol; fie gravity .963; boils at SB^Puhr. It maybe procured from thebutyrate of mag- aesm by adding a little sulphuric add in quan- tity not quite snffident to decompose the whole of the butyrate used; filter and distill the dear liquor, when the product will be butyric and, from which, the water may be removed b chloride of calcium. It forms teferafe* nth some of the bases, f Sw .. lCJ*.i 3907. Malic Arid. Mafic and it rery soluble in water, sfightry defiquescent, has a pleasant acidulous taste, and, when neutral- Me add, MAIXJLTCS. Take the juke of the fruit of the mountain ash, inunediatety after it baa tanned red, but still unripe; heat it to the boiling point, skim, filter, nearly neu- e with ammonia, and predpitate with a solution of 1 part of acetate of lead to every irts of juke; filter, and again predpitate nitrate of lead; allow the whole to stand until it forms a mass of crystals, then well wvh. dry. powder, suspend in water, and de- nse by a current of sulphuretted hydro- gen; again filter, nentrafixe with ammonia, decolor with animal charcoal, a second time predpitate with nitrate of lead, and decom- the resulting nitrate cf lead fay nlphur- lastiy, filter, evaporate and tadtfcr.) Mr. Everett of the leafstalks of , as a source of mafic add. One of this juke contains grs. of dry mafic and. The stalks snoura be peeled before preeang out the juke, as the cuticle contains much color. Everett's pro- eossis as follows: Meutrafiae with hydrate of fin*, boil, filter, precipitate with nitrate of tend, aUov it to stand for a few hours, boil, cool, filter, decompose the precipitate with sulphuric add. avoiding excess, throw down the excess of lead from tbe supernatant por- tion with sulphuretted hydrogen, evaporate, and erystalfiae. Mafic add is also obtained from the juke of apples and several other sorts of fruit. ALKALIES 3968. lod:.-. A.rl/1 I I 9*j gen, ItH lofiod- with the very soluble in i with inflammable bod- ies fike the nitrates and chlorates, 9009. To Obtain IbdJe Acid, Bis- solve iodate of denote excess, boa for the ssintion aside to erystaffiie. Or: Iodine,! part ted) nitric acid, 4 parts; BOX, awl apply a ' beatnntfltbVeolorofthe ~ : ~--^ , the rasidunm in the open air at of about SiP Fahr. When, by attracting meisfame, ft has acquired the r oueisf fur e of Trap, pot it into a place tme-js higher and the air drier, when/in a Put few dars, rery fine white crystals of boidal shape win form, Mr. JL CoonelFi method is as foDows 50 grains of iodine into a large, tall addl ounce of faring nitric add, boO, as flie *^''w sublimes and eondensas on the of the flask, continually wash it with the add. Continue this i of the iodine rents : -.- :;-.-: - -.-. .-..-.-... : dish, and eraporate to and again evaporate titt afi the mtrous add is 3970. Hydriodie Acid. Thsisi pound of iodine and hydrogen. In gs form it is colorless, fumes m the air, i rery soluble in water. In liquid form, strong, it is rety fiaMe to change, and be kept in wefl stoppered bottles. In nation with bases it forms HTDDOOATES. be easily formed by j the add wnh tbeoxidesorhydn of the bases, or mute economically, by act on the bases in water, with iodine. When the hydriodates are deprired of their water, they are true uwnns; that is, tions with iodine. (See 3T0. 5l) 3971. To Obtain Hydriodie a little . by driodie adwffl be erotod, ~~ wai he formed. in a retort, 9 , when : acid wfll he evolred. 3972. Dilute Hydriodie Acid. 1 troy ounce iodine in fine powder. Mix 90 r: - "- ' :' "._ .- .-.-i--. ~ '.:. ' tflled water in a tall bottle, and pass into P^fit^ fiA f*m nfil ttm color of the entirely dimpptsn, and a turbid liquid re- mains, tfext, jsaduallr add the the .: :. :.: :.-i eobrless, and decant it into a ichitmust nearly fin ; boO it un- to m off the odor of hydmnm- fhprie arid, and filter thrnnch I:--.: .- - bring the filtered liquid to 6 JEeep it in a weD-stoppend bottle. BLJ \_ thepropertrof msjludiiii Mmtam with them m fixed low tormerie paper brown. aflraBrs ara soda, potassa, first has heencaued the the regetable, and tike und the alkali; bet time distinetion is now Sooa and notnssa hare also been fixed alkafea, from their pi imimi an lathe fire. The alkanes are i second The salts of the alkafies, both bonated, are generally fieety The methods for ascertamms; thei f and their sohrtiont wit be Alkafimetry, Vo. 83L 3974. Potanrnv Pare potash (n Mash of commerce, which is an im**: mate of pursasaX is tibe oride of ttoeevrs in two forms, mmkpanms and Iw- term potmA pplin to the 3975. puM* CIH lustre, an hmni nm obtained bythei hotdtTair. ^ 89Ff&. Hydrate of Potauan* Hydxated or eamfHe pottm, when perfectly pure, m white, soHdJjnpysomhjte inVter anaia at cohoL rery defiauescent* and eorjmsire. To tamper feumWi Pour Om cold, put it 374 ALKALIES. 3981. Ammonia. Pure ammonia is an incondensable colorless gas, possessing great pungency and acridness, and powerful alka- fine^properties. "Water readily absorbs about 500 times its volume of this substance, and in this state forms strong liquid ammonia, which, when much more dilute, is popularly known as spirits of hartshorn, or water of ammonia. As usually met with in the form of a semi-crystalline whitish mass, commonly called smelling salts, it is combined with car- bonic acid and water, forming a sesquicar- bonate of this base. According to the theory of Berzelius, ammonia should be the oxide of ammonium, a supposed but undiscovered metal. Its presence can always be detected by its pungent odor. 3982. To Obtain Ammonia. Mix un- slacked lime with an equal weight of sal-am- moniac, both dry and in fine powder ; intro- duce the mixture into a glass retort, and join the beak by a collar of India-rubber to a glass tube about 18 inches long, which must lie horizontally, and have its beak beut up ready to be placed under a glass jar, on the shelf of a mercurial pneumatic trough. Heat being applied by means of a spirit-lamp, and the air contained in the apparatus having been ex- pelled, the gas may be collected for use. Ammonia cannot be dried by means of chlo- ride of calcium. 3983. Litbia. This is the oxide of lith- ium ; is caustic, alkaline, and sparingly solu- ble in water. One of its most remarkable properties is its power of corroding platinum. In the form of the hydrate it is white and translucent, does not deliquesce, but absorbs carbonic acid and becomes opaque. It is to be obtained from various minerals, and is also found in some mineral waters ; among which is that of the Gettysburg spring. Pure lithia may be obtained by decomposing sulphate of lithia by acetate of baryta, and by expelling the acetic acid from the filtered solution by heat. 3984. Tests for Lithia. It colors the flame of alcohol containing it a carmine red. It is distinguished from potassa and soda by its phosphate and carbonate being only spar- ingly soluble in water; from baryta, strontia, and lime, by forming cry stallizable and soluble salts with sulphuric or oxalic acid ; and from magnesia, by the solution of its carbonate ex- hibiting an alkaline reaction. 3985. Baryta. This alkaline earth is the oxide of barium, and is found abundantly in the form of native sulphate and carbonate of baryta. "With the acids it forms salts which are all more or less white ; except the Bulphate, they are soluble in water, or in dilute muriatic acid, and are extremely poi- sonous. 3986. To Obtain Pure Baryta. Ignite pure crystallized nitrate of baryta in a capa- cious porcelain crucible, until red vapors cease to be evolved. This forms a grayish white mass or powder, which, on the, addition of water, slacks like lime, but with the evolu- tion of more heat. 3987. To Obtain Hydrated Baryta. It may be precipitated from a solution of either nitrate or chloride of barium, by adding to it a solution of pure potassa or soda, col- lecting and drying the precipitate. It is obtained in crystals, by boiling a strong solution of sulphuret 01 barium with successive portions of black oxide (protoxide) of copper, until it ceases to give a black pre- cipitate with a salt of lead. The liquid, after filtration, yields crystals of hydrate of baryta on cooling. 3988. Test for Baryta. Its solutions give an immediate clear white precipitate with dilute sulphuric acid, which is insoluble in both acids and alkalies. 3989. Strontia. An alkaline earth, the oxide of a metal called strontium. It greatly resembles baryta. Hydrate of strontia is freely soluble in boiling water, and the satura- ted solution deposits crystals on co'oling. The solution exhibits an alkaline reaction, and, like baryta, is precipitated white by sulphuric acid and the alkaline sulphates and carbon- ates. It is distinguished from baryta by its inferior solubility and by its soluble salts giv- ing a red tinge to flame, while the salts of baryta impart a yellow tinge. The salts of strontia may all be prepared by dissolving the native carbonate in the respective acids. The nitrate is the only one met with in com- merce, and is employed to form colored fire- works. 3990. Magnesia. An alkaline earth, the oxide of the metal magnesium, in the form of a very light, white, odorless and tasteless powder, almost insoluble in cold and boiling water. It slowly absorbs carbonic acid from the atmosphere. "With the acids it forms salts, most of which may be made by tho direct solution of the earth, or its hydrajte or carbonate. It dissolves in hydrochloric acid without effervescence. Neither bicarbonate of potassa nor chloride of barium throws down anything from the solution. It turns turmeric paper brown when moistened. 3991. To Obtain Magnesia. Export carbonate of magnesia iu a crucible to a full red heat for 2 hours, or till the powder sus- pended in water does not effervesce on tho addition of muriatic acid. On the large scale, covered crucibles, made of porous earthen- ware, ai'e employed as the containing vessels, and tho heat is applied by placing them ill a sort of furnace or oven heated with coke. 3992. Test for Magnesia. Magnesia is precipitated as a bulky white hydrate, by pure alkalies; and as a bulky white carbonate, by the carbonates of potassa and soda. Both the above precipitates dissolve in nitric and muriatic acid, forming salts which are very deliquescent, and soluble in alcohol. Solutions of magnesian salts are not preci- pitated by the alkaline sulphates or sulphuric acid, nor, when very dilute, by oxalate of ammonia. By these tests it may be distin- guished and separated .from lime. These tests distinguish it from the other earths, and its insolubility in alkaline solutions marks its difference from alumina. 3993. Lime. A highly acrid, alkaline and caustic earth, less insoluble in cold than in hot water. It is the oxide of calcium. When heated to a high degree, it becomes in- tensely luminous, and is well known in use as the calcium light. 3994. To Obtain Lime. Lime, or quick- lime, is obtained by exposing limestone, or chalk, which are carbonates of lime, to a red ALKALOIDS. heat. Shell-lime is got in the same manner from the shells of the oyster and other shell- fish. "When sprinkled with water, heat is gen- erated, and the lime, combining with the water, crumbles down into a powder, which is hy- drate of lime, or slacked lime. 3995. Tests for Lime. The alkaline carbonates, phosphates, oxalates, and sul- phates, occasion white precipitates in solutions of lime. The precipitates occasioned by the first three tests are soluble in dilute nitric or muriatic acid ; that by the last is insoluble in those menstrua, but soluble in solution of salt, and not reprecipitated by dilute sulphuric acid. Oxalate of ammonia or potassa is the most delicate test of lime. If the substance under examination be a solid, dissolve it in muriatic acid, filter, evaporate to dryness, redissolve in water, and test as above. All the soluble salts of lime tinge the flame of alcohol of an orange color, but this may be confounded with the color produced by the salts of strontia. Substances of a vegeta- ^t*. ble origin, analogous to the alkaline bases, iu which the medicinal activity of the plants iii which they are found appear to re- side. ( Cooleij. ) Among the natural organic bases, or alkaloids, the following are the principal, as enumerated by Professor Fownes. 3997. Morphine or Morphia. This is the chief active principle of opium. The morphia of commerce is a white crystalline powder; but when crystallized in alcohol, forms brilliant, prismatic, transparent, and colorless crystals, which turn nitric acid red. In powder, unlike strychnine, it is fusible without decomposition, and strongly decom- poses iodic acid. It is insoluble in ether, scarcely soluble in water, and freely soluble in alcohol. Potassa and ammonia precipi- tate morphia from the solutions of its salts. 3998. To Find the Percentage of Morphia in Opium. An excellent process for ascertaining the quality of opium is to boil au infusion of 100 grains opium with 25 grains quicklime, made into a milk with wa- ter; to filter while hot, saturate with a dilute hydrochloric acid, and to precipitate the morphia by ammonia. After expelling any excess of ammonia by heat, the precipitate is collected, dried, and weighed; the weight in grains will nearly represent the percentage of morphia in the opium. 3999. Narcotine. An alkaloid found in the insoluble portion of opium, and forms small, colorless, brilliant crystals, which give to nitric acid an orange tint. 4000. Codeine, or Codeia. Obtained from hydrochlorate of morphia, in colorless, transparent, eight-sided crystals, which do not color nitric acid red. 4001. Thebaine, or Paramorphine. This is also obtained from opium iu colorless needles like those of narcotine. It does not color nitric acid red, and is much less soluble in water thau codeine. 4002. Cinchonine, or Cinchonia. This is the active principle of Peruvian bark, con- tained in the largest quantity in the pale bark. It crystallizes in small, brilliant, transparent, 375 four-sided prisms, insoluble in ether. Cin- chonicine and tinchonidine aro other varie- ties of this alkaloid. 4003. Quinine, or Quinia. This is also obtained from Peruvian bark, being found in largest quantity in the yellow variety of the bark. It crystallizes in small white nee- dles. It may be distinguished from cinchonine by the form of its crystals, and its solubility in ether. 4004. Quinoidine, or Amorphous Quinine, is a yellow or brown resinous mass, identical in composition with quinine. Quinicine and quinidinc are also varieties of quinine. (See Nos. 4025, f mercury dropped into a fluid containing albumen, occasions a white preci- pitate. Tannin or tincture of galls gives a yellow, pitchy precipitate. 4349. Sulphur. Sulphur or brimstone is usually of a pale yellow color ; melts to a clear, thin fluid, and volatile at about 232 Fahr., when it inflames spontaneously in the open air, and burns with a bluish flame. It is insoluble in water and in alcohol ; soluble in turpentine and fat oils, and freely so in bisul- phuret of carbon and hot liquor of potassa. "With oxygen it forms sulphuric and sulphur- ous acids, and with the metals it combines as SULPHURETS or SULPHIDES. Its specific gravity is from 1.982 to 2.045 (water standard). The specific gravity of its vapor is 6.648 (air standard). 4350. Amorphous or Brown Sul- phur. Prepared Irom sublimed sulphur by melting it, increasing the heat to 320 Fahr., and continuing it at that temperature for about 30 minutes, or until it becomes brown and viscid ; it is then poured into water. It is now ductile like wax, may be easily moulded, and when cooled does not again become fluid below 600 Fahr. 4351. Precipitated Sulphur. Sub- limed sulphur, 1 part; dry slacked lime, 2 parts; water, 25 parts ; boil for 2 or 3 hours, dilute with 25 parts more water, filter, precipitate by muriatic acid, and drain ; well wash, and dry the precipitate. Resembles sublimed sul- phur in its general properties, but is much paler, and in a finer state of division. 4352. To Purify Precipitated Sul- phur. The precipitated sulphur of the shops contains about two-thirds of its weight of sul- phate of lime (plaster of Paris), owing to the substitution of sulphuric for muriatic acid in its preparation. This fraud is detected by heating a little of the suspected sample in an iron spoon or shovel, when the sulphur is volatilized, and leaves behind the sulphate of lime, which, when mixed with water and gently dried, gives "the amount of the adul- teration. A still simpler plan is to dissolve out the sulphur with a little hot oil of turpen- tine or liquor of potassa. 4353. Roll Sulphur. Crude sulphur, purified by melting and skimming it, is poured into cylindrical moulds. Common roll sulphur freqiiently contains from 3 to 7 per cent, of yellow arsenic. 4354. Sublimed Sulphur. Sometimes called Flowers of Sulphur. This is prepared by subliming sulphur in iron vessels. For medical purposes it is well washed with water and dried by a gentle heat. (Cooley.) An aqueous solution of pure anhydrous car- bonate of soda will dissolve an appreciable quantity of flowers of sulphur, by digesting for 10 hours at 212 Fahr. (Pole.) 4355. Sulphur Vivum. Crude native sulphur, or blach sulphur, is of a grey or mouse- colored powder. The same names are given to the residuum in the subliming pots, after the preparation of flowers of sulphur ; it gen- erally contains arsenic. 4356. Tersulphuret of Arsenic. The tersulphuret or tcrsulphide of arsenic is a fine golden yellow substance in lumps or powder. It is found, ready formed, m nature, or is pre- pared artificially by sublimation from arseni- ous acid and sulphur. The artificial sul- phuret, King's Yellow, often contains 80 to 90 per cent, of white arsenic. 4357. Camphor. The camphor of com- merce is a natural production. It is princi- pally extracted from the laurel camphor tree, but it is also found in several other members of the vegetable kingdom. It is a white, semi- crystalline solid, very volatile at common temperatures ; soluble in alcohol, ether, oils, and acetic acid, and slightly but sufficiently so in water to impart its characteristic smell and taste. The Chinese and Japanese extract the camphor by cutting the wood into small pieces, and boiling it with water in iron ves- sels which are covered with large earthen capitals or domes lined with rice straw. As the water boils, the camphor is volatilized along with the steam, and condenses on the straw, under the form of greyish granulations. In this state it is collected and transported to Europe, when it undergoes the process of re- fining into white camphor. To refine it, 100 parts of crude camphor are mixed with 2 parts each of quicklime and animal charcoal, and placed in a thin globular glass vessel sunk in a sand-bath. The heat is then cau- tiously applied, and the vessel gradually and carefully raised out of the sand as the sub- limation goes on. When this is completed, the whole is allowed to cool. If the process be conducted too slowly, or at a heat under 375 Fahr., the product will be flaky, and con- sequently unsaleable, without remelting or subliming. 4358. To Pulverize Camphor. Cam- phor may be beaten in a mortar for some time, without being reduced to powder, but if it be first broken with the pestle, and then sprinkled with a few drops of spirit of wine, it may be readily pulverized. By adding water to an alcoholic or ethereal solution of camphor, it is precipitated under the form of an impalpable powder of exquisite whiteness, which may be collected and spontaneously dried on a filter; the addition of a minute quantity of carbonate of magnesia to the water (say 1 drachm for each 16 ounces of camphor), before mixing it with the camphor solution, will prevent the powdered camphor from hardening again after drying. 4359. Glycerine. This is a sweet, syrupy liquid, formed during the saponification of oils and fats. Its various uses will be found em- bodied in their respective receipts. 4360. To Obtain Commercial Gly- cerine. The sweet stearine liquor of the stearine manufacturers is used for this pur- pose. The lime contained in it is precipitated by a stream of carbonic acid gas, or by a solu- tion of carbonate of soda, carefully avoiding adding the latter in excess ; the liquor thus obtained is then boiled a little, filtered, and evaporated to a syrupy consistence. Glycer- ine is also obtained from the water and wash- ings left in the manufacture of lead or litharge plaster, by mixing them together, filtering, and submitting them to the action of a stream of sulphuretted hydrogen, which pre- 406 MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS. cipitates the lead; the clear liquid, after settling, is decanted, filtered, and evapora- ted to the consistence of syrup, in a -water- bath. 4361. Solvent Power of Glycerine. Klever gives the following parts of various chemicals soluble in 100 parts glycerine. PABTS. Arsenious acid 20 Arsenic acid 20 Benzoic acid 10 Boracicacid 10 Oxalicacid 15 Tannicacid 50 Alum 40 Carbonate of ammonia 20 Muriate of ammonia 20 Tartrate of antimony and potassa 5.50 Atropia 3 Sulphate of atropia 33 Chloride of barium 10 Brucia 2.25 Sulphide of calcium 5 Quinine 50 Sulphate of quinine 6.70 Tannate of quinia 25 Acetate of copper 10 Sulphate of copper 30 Tartrate of iron and potassa 8 Lactate of iron 16 Sulphate of iron 25 Corrosive sublimate 7.50 Cyanide of mercury 27 Iodine 1.90 Morphia 45 Acetate of morphia 20 Muriate of morphia 20 Phosphorus 20 Acetate of lead 20 Arseniate of potassa 50 Chlorate of potassa 3.50 Bromide of potassium 25 Cyanide of potassium 32 Iodide of potassium 40 Arseniate of soda 50 Bicarbonate of soda 8 Borate of soda 60 Carbonate of soda 98 Chlorate of soda 20 Sulphur 10 Strychnia 25 Nitrate of strychnia 4 Sulphate of strychnia 22.50 Urea 50 Veratria 1 Chloride of zinc 50 Iodide of zinc 40 Sulphate of zinc 35 4362. To Purify Glycerine. Commer- cial glycerine is rendered pure by diluting it with water ; it is then decolored with a little animal charcoal (see No. 1729), filtered, and evaporated to the consistence of a thin syrup, after which it is further evaporated in a vacuum, or over sulphuric acid, until it ac- quires a specific gravity of 1.265. 4363. To Purify Glycerine. Bottles sent out from wholesale and manufacturing houses, labeled, "Pure Glycerine," do not always contain what their labels declare. Some samples called pure are rich in lead, others contain chlorine, most are diluted with water, and the best is generally acid. It is necessary, therefore, to purify even the best samples by digesting them for several days with powdered chalk, allowing the latter to subside, and decanting. (Schacht.) 4364. Tests for the Purity of Glycer- ine. Pure glycerine has a neutral reaction, and on evaporation in a porcelain dish leaves only a very slight carbonaceous crust, while the impure has a much greater percentage of coaly matter. The pure article does not be- come brown when treated, drop by drop, with concentrated sulphuric acid, even after several hours ; the impure becomes brown even when but slightly adulterated. Pure glycerine, treated with pure nitric acid and a solution of nitrate of silver, does not become cloudy, while the impure exhibits a decidedly milky appearance. Sometimes the impure article becomes blackened with the sulphide of am- monium. Oxalatc of ammonia produces a black clouding ; lime-water sometimes causes a milky discoloration. Pure glycerine, how- ever, constantly remains perfectly uncolored, and clear as water, the impure becoming col- ored to a greater or less extent. If a few drops are rubbed between the fingers, pure glycerine causes no fatty smell ; the contrary is,, the case with the impure, especially if a few drops of dilute sulphuric acid be introduced. (Roller.) (See No. 1151.) 4365. Gelatine. Animal jelly obtained by heat from the organic tissue of the bones, tendons, and ligaments, the cellular tissue, the skin, and the serous membranes in contact with water. Glue and size are coarse varie- ties of this substance, prepared from hoofs, hides, skins, y means of which we can detect the presence of starch in combination with similar bodies. Bromine is nearly as good as iodine, and tannin is said, in some instances, to be better. A solution of 50 grains tannin in \ pint dis- tilled water will answer for making the test. A drop of this tannin solution will cause a precipitate in extremely dilute solutions of starch; the precipitate dissolves when warmed and reappears when the solution cools ; and where the starch paste is old, the reaction is said to be more sensitive than that of iodine. 4382. To Test Arrow-Boot. Genuine arrow-root is odorless and tasteless, and pro- duces a sort of crackling noise when pressed or rubbed, and emits no peculiar odor when mixed with muriatic acid. Stirred up in a mortar with double its weight of a mixture of equal parts of aqua-fortis -and water, it does not become gelatinous and adhesive in less than 15 minutes. 4383. To Detect Arsenic in Colored Paper. Take a fragment of the paper and put it into a solution of ammonia. If arsenic be present the liquid will assume a bluish color. In case a further test is required, pour a little of the ammoniacal solution on crystals of nitrate of silver, and arsenic, if present, will show itself by leaving a yellow deposit on the crystals. As arsenic is used in coloring all qualities of paper, from the cheapest to the costliest, a knowledge of this test will be of service. v 4384. To Detect Gum Arabic in Gum Tragacanth. Make the gum into a clear mucilage, and filter carefully ; pour strong al- cohol upon it, and if it retains its solubility and transparency, no gum arabic is present, but if it becomes opaque, or deposits a pow- der at the bottom, it contains gum arabic or some similar substance. 4385. To Test Slates. The test of a superior slate is its ability to remain unbro- ken, after being made red hot in a furnace and suddenly immersed in cold water while at that heat. 4386. To Test Silver or Gold. For testing gold or silver, slightly wet the metal and rub gently with lunar caustic. If gen- uine gold or silver the mark will be faint ; but if an inferior metal it will be quite black. 4387. To Test Mushrooms, The fol- lowing are said to be tests of the wholesome- ness of mushrooms : Sprinkle a little salt on the spongy part or gills of the sample to be tried : if they turn yellow, they are poison- ous ; if black, they are wholesome. False mushrooms have a warty cap, or else fragments of membrane adhering to the upper surface ; are heavy, and emerge from a vulva or bag ; they grow in tufts or clusters in wqpds, on the stumps of trees, &c. ; whereas the true mushrooms grow in pastures. False mushrooms have an astringent, styptic, and disagreeable taste; when cut they turn blue ; they are moist on the surface, and are generally of a rose or orange color. The gills of the true mushroom are of a pinky red, changing to a liver color ; the flesh is white ; the stem is white, solid, and cylin- drical. Introduce a silver spoon, or an onion, into a vessel in which mushrooms are seething ; if, on taking either of them out, they assume a dark, discolored appearance, the circumstance denotes the presence of poison existing among them; if, on the other hand, the metal or onion, on being withdrawn from the liquor, wears its natural appearance, the fruit may be regarded as genuine, and of the right sort. Eub the upper skin with a gold ring or any piece of gold : the part rubbed will turn yel- low if it is a poisonous fungus. 4388. To Test the Hardness of Water. Hard water contains more or less carbonate of lime ; the presence of this sub- stance in waters is tested thus : Soap, or a so- lution of soap in proof spirit, mixes easily and perfectly withjnoil 10 or 12 minutes, occasionally which is Then let stirring it, so that the lumps of opium may be all broken and dissolved. Then set it away till the next day, when it should be strained through a cloth strainer, and if there be not 4 gallons of the solution, pour on the residue of opium boiling water enough to make that quantity when it is strained and clear. "When in the state of watery solution, it is better to be kept in stone crocks that will hold about 2 or 3 gallons each, and in a cool place ; after standing 5 or G days the clear solution should be carefully dipped off into a large tin can. The skimmings and dregs should be strained, and when clear put with the other. To this 4 gallons of watery solution, add 5| gallons al- cohol and stir the mixture thoroughly ; then cover the can tight, so as to prevent evapora- tion. After standing a few days, the clear elixir may be carefully dipped off into another can, and the dregs at the bottom strained, and, when clear, poured into the other. After standing undisturbed for a few weeks it will be fit to use. It will be equivalent to lauda- num, both in its strength and the size of its dose. 4736. Compound Elixir of Taraxa- cum. As prepared by Mr. Candidus for Dr. Cochran, of Mobile. Reduce the following ingredients to a moderately fine powder : 6 ounces taraxacum root, 4 ounces wild cherry bark, 1 ounce gentian root, 2 ounces orange peel, 1 ounce cinnamon, 1 ounce coriander seed, 2 drachms each anise, caraway and cardamom seeds, and 1 ounce liquorice root. Dilute suffi- cient alcohol with twice its bulk of water, ar.d moisten the powdered ingredients with ft ounces of it, pack in a conical percolator^ and displace 6 pints with the diluted alcohol. ELIXIRS. 435 A 'in to this 2k pints simple syrup. Dose, from | to 1 ounce. This elixir is an excellent vehicle for quinine, the taste of which it com- pletely destroys. 4737. Squibb's Ammonio-PyTOphos- phate of Iron. Take of pyrophosphate of soda, 4 parts by weight; solution of tersulphate of iron, 8 parts; citric acid, 2f parts; water of ammonia, 6| parts. Dissolve the pyrophos- phate of soda ( which is prepared by first drying and then calcining common phosphate of soda) in 60 parts water by means of heat ; cool the solution to 50 Fahr. and filter it into a bottle of the capacity of 250 parts. Then add the so- lution of tersulphate of iron (see No. 4816), shake the mixture well, fill the bottle up with water, again agitate it, and set it aside for 24 hours to settle. Decant the clear liquid from the precipitate by means of a syphon, and re- peat the washing and decantation twice. Then pour the precipitate upon a strainer, drain it for 24 hours and transfer to a tarred porcelain basin. Upon the citric acid, contained in a suitable vessel, pour the solution of ammonia, a little at a time, with constant stirring, till the crystals are dissolved and the acid accu- rately saturated. Then add this solution to the precipitate in the basin, and apply heat. Stir the mixture constantly till perfectly dis- solved, and evaporate the solution to 24 parts; then filter through paper. Finally pour the solution upon plates, dry the salt by a mod- erate heat, and keep it in well-closed bottles. The yield is a little more than 7 parts. The salt is deliquescent, in the form of pale yellow- ish green scales. 4738. Ammonio-Ferric Alum. This elegant styptic remedy has recently been much prescribed, especially in leucorrhoea; it is made as follows : Take of crystallized protosul- phate of iron, 8 ounces; sulphuric acid, 7 fluid drachms; nitric acid, li fluid ounces; sulphate of ammonia, 18 drachms. Boil the sulphate of iron in 2 pints water and add to it the sul- phuric acid ; when dissolved, add the nitric acid gradually, boiling for a minute or two after each addition, until the nitric acid ceases to produce a black color; boil violently, to separate deutoxide of nitrogen, and reduce the liquid to about one half, then add the sul- phate of ammonia and a little sulphuric acid and set it aside to crystallize. "Wash the crys- tals thoroughly in a little cold water to which a small portion of sulphuric acid has been added. This salt is in elegant violet-tinted crystals. Its peculiar merit consists in its marked astringency without the stimulating properties of some of this class of salts. It is easily assimilated when taken internally. Dose, 3 to 6 grains, and while it controls excessive discharges, is often useful in cor- recting their cause. Though called an alum, this salt contains no alumina ; it is similar to the double sulphate of potassa and iron, which is called iron alum, but is more soluble. 4739. Concentrated Infusion of Roses. Rose petals or leaves, 3 pounds; boiling water, 2 gallons ; infuse 2 hours, with constant agitation, then press out the liquor in a very clean tincture press, strain through flannel or a hair sieve, add diluted sulphuric acid, 24 fluid ounces, agitate well, and filter through paper supported on coarse muslin; lastly, add 6 pounds finest white sugar broken up into small lumps, but perfectly free from dust and dirt. When dissolved, put the in- fusion into clean, stoppered green glass bot- tles, and keep it from the light in a cool place. Product very superior. Or : Take rose leaves, acid, and cold water, as last, mix, and infuse for 48 hours in a clean, covered, earthenware vessel, then press out the liquid with the hands, filter, and add the sugar as before. Product very tine, and, keeps well. In employing the first formula, care should be taken that the utensils be per- fectly clean, especially the press, and earthen- ware glazed with lead should be avoided. The pressing should also be conducted as rapidly as possible, to avoid the color being injured by the iron, though clean iron does not readily injure infusion of roses before the addition of the acid. Should not the infusion filter quite clear through paper, the addition of the whites of 2 or 3 eggs, diluted with 2 or 3 ounces of water, followed by violent agita- tion of the liquid for a few minutes, and re- pose for 1 or 2 hours, will usually render it fine, when it may either be decanted or fil- tered should it reqxvire it. It will now pass rapidly through ordinary filtering paper, and at once ran clear. 4740. Elixir of Vitriol. Called also aromatic sulphuric acid. In order that elixir of vitriol may be miscible with water without precipitation, aromatics of an oleo-resinous nature cannot be used. Add gradually 3 troy ounces sulphuric acid to pint alcohol, and pour 1 fluid ounce boiling water on 2 drachms red rose leaves ; when both liquids have become cool, add 1 fluid ounce fluid ex- tract of orange-peel, and add alcohol enough to make the whole up to 18 fluid ounces. Mix and filter. Elixir of vitriol thus prepared has a pleasant aromatic odor and flavor, and the beautiful red color of the rose leaves, heightened by the presence of the acid. It is miscible with water without turbidity, and a specimen, after long keeping, has deposited but a trace of sediment. 4741. Alcoholized Sulphuric Acid. To 3 parts rectified spirits, add, very gradually, 1 part sulphuric acid. It is usually colored by letting it stand over a little cochineal. Its properties are internally refrigerant, ex- ternally caustic. As a refrigerant, it is administered in doses of -J- fluid drachm to 1 pint water. 4742. Cantharidal Collodion. Take 8 troy ounces finely powdered cantharides, press it firmly in a cylindrical percolator, and pour on it 1 pints stronger ether. When 15 fluid ounces have passed, set the liquid aside in a close vessel, and continue percolation with stronger alcohol until pint more liquid is obtained. Set this last aside to evaporate spontaneously until reduced to 1 fluid ounce ; then mix it with the reserved liquid. Next add 100 grains dry collodion cotton (see next receipt), and agitate until dissolved. ( U. S. Ph.) 4743. To Prepare Gun Cotton for Collodion. To 10 troy ounces nitrate of po- tassa, add 154 troy ounces sulphuric acid, and stir until uniformly mixed. When cooled below 122 Fahr., add i troy ounce cotton, freed from impurities, stirring with a glass 4:36 MEDICATED WATERS. rod ; cover the vessel closely, and, after stand- ing 24 hours, transfer the cotton to a larger vessel, and wash it, first with cold water until the washings cease to have an acid taste, and then wash with boiling water. Press it as dry as possible with the hand, pack it tightly in a conical percolator, and pour on it stronger alcohol until the remaining water is displaced. Lastly, press it as dry as possible with the hand. The cotton thus prepared, and dried at a temperature of 212, weighs 336 grains. 4744. To Prepare Collodion. Mix 21 fluid ounces stronger ether with 6 fluid oun- ces stronger alcohol in a suitable bottle, add the quantity of moist prepared cotton (as pre- pared in the preceding receipt), and shake occasionally until dissolved. 4745. Morphia Collodion. Collodion, 30 parts; muriate of morphia, 1 part. Ap- plied to the affected parts in obstinate neu- ralgia. 4746. To Administer Hydrate of Chloral. Physicians should prescribe only the crystals, and should be very certain that thej- are pure. The taste of hydrate of chloral is quite unpleasant, but orange-juice com- pletely covers it, and so does peppermint water or essence of peppermint. If taken in aqueous solution, let the patient be directed to suck the juice of an orange immediately after swallowing the dose, or mix with the solution a little peppermint water, with syrup of tolu. The following is a good formula: Take chloral hydrate, 1 drachm ; peppermint water, \ ounce; syrup tolu, 4 ounce; water, 2 ounces. Dose, from -J- ounce to 2 ounces, as may be required. The mixture should not be prepared in large quantities, nor be kept for any length of time. 4747. Improved Formula for Chalk Mixture. To obviate unpleasant and dan- gerous souring of chalk mixture as commonly prepared, glycerine may be substituted for the sugar, according to the following formula: Take of prepared chalk and glycerine, of each | ounce ; pure gum acacia, 2 drachms ; cinna- mon water and pure water, of each 4 ounces. Rub well together until thoroughly mixed. This mixture will keep during a whole sum- mer. The glycerine exerts a positively sooth- ing effect upon the bowels, as well as in some degree arresting fermentation. 4748. Phosphorated Ether. Dissolve 2 grains phosphorus in ^ drachm oil of pepper- mint ; when dissolved add sulphuric ether, \ fluid ounce ; mix well. Dose, 2 to 6 drops. This was recommended by Augustin in epi- lepsy, paralysis, and other like nervous affec- tions. 4749. Compound Spirit of Ether. This preparation is known by the name of Hoffmann's Anodyne, and consists of pint ether, 1 pint alcohol, and G fluid drachms ethereal oil. 4750. Moore's Extract of Black Co- hosh. Moisten black cohosh root (black snake-root, or cimicifuga racemosa) in No. SO powder, with 95 per cent, alcohol, and pack closely in a displacer ; add gradually more of the alcohol until the resinous portion is ex- hausted ; evaporate the alcoholic portion to dryness, powder the product and pass it through a fine sieve. Proceed to displace with diluted alcohol (1 part alcohol to' 2 of water) until the root is perfectly exhausted, evaporate the resulting product over a water- bath until it is of nearly the required consist- ence of a good extract, then mix the pow- dered resinous portion, while the fluid is still warm, and stir constantly until cold. In this way the resin is intimately and smoothly mixed with the extractive portion ; is much more readily rubbed down with aqueous solu- tions, and contains all the active ingredients of the root ; but, however carefully prepared, change of temperature is liable to separate the resin more or less from the extract. 4751. Procter's Alcoholic Extract of Arnica. Take arnica flowers, 12 ounces, troy; alcohol, 3 pints; water, 1 pint. Mix the alcohol and water, and pour 2 pints of the mixture over the arnica, previously finely bruised. Allow it to stand for 48 hours, pack it firmly in a percolator, and pour on the re- mainder of the mixture until 3 pints are ob- tained. Evaporate this tincture in a water- bath (or still) till reduced to a soft resinous extract. 4752. Medicated Oils. These are pre- pared by infusion or decoction. The bruised ingredients are either simply digested in 2 to 4 times their weight of olive oil for some days, or they are gently boiled in it until they become dry and crisp, care being taken that the heat towards the end of the process is not greater than that of boiling water. As soon as either process is complete, the oil is allowed to drain from the ingredients, which may be, if necessary, submitted to the action of a press. The product is usually strained through flannel or a hair sieve while still warm, and, after standing a week or 10 days to settle, the clear portion is decanted from the dregs. Green plants are usually employed for this purpose, but in many cases the dried plants, reduced to powder, and digested for 6 or 8 hours in the oil at the heat of hot water, with frequent agitation, yield a much more valuable product. These oils are nearly all employed as external applications only. The oil is obtained from the following, in the green state : Balsam apple, the seeds first taken out; belladonna leaves; elder flowers; fox glove leaves; garden night- shade leaves ; fox glove leaves ; garlic ; hem- lock leaves ; henbane leaves ; juniper berries, crushed ; white lilies ; poison oak leaves ; roses, the petals of the flowers ; fresh rue ; St. John's wort flowers ; fresh tobacco leaves. Others are used dry, and reduced to pow- der, such as: Cantharides (Spanish flies); cap- sicums; dried chamomile flowers; fenugreek seeds; marsh-mallow root; mudar bark; opium ; pellitory root ; black pepper, f iron, and make up with syrup into 80 pills. 4917. Compound Cathartic Pills. Take _ ounce compound extract of colocynth, 3 drachms extract of jalap, 3 drachms mild chloride of mercury, and 2 scruples gamboge; mix with water to make 180 pills. 4918. Copaiba Pills. Mix 2 ounces copaiba with 1 drachm fresh magnesia ; set it side to dry, and, when the mass is of proper Consistency, make into 200 pills. 4919. Mercurial Pills. These are com- monly known as blue pills. Eub 1 ounce mer- cury with 1$ ounces confection of roses; add i ounce liquorice root, and divide into 480 OINTMENTS, SALVES, AND CERATES. 4:4,7 4920. Calomel Pills. Mix i ounce mild chloride of mercury with 1 drachm pow- dered gum-arabic. Make up with syrup, into 240 pills. 4921. Compound Galbanum Pills. 6 drachms myrrh, and 2 drachms assafoetida, mixed with sufficient syrup. Make 240 pills. 4922. Rhubarb Pills. Mix 3 drachms powdered rhubarb and 1 drachm soap with water to make GO pills. 4923. Compound Rhubarb Pills. Form into a mass with sufficient water, 1 ounce rhubarb, 6 drachms aloes, i ounce myrrh, and i fluid drachm oil of peppermint. Divide into 240 pills. 4924. Compound Pills of Squill. Mix 1 drachm powdered squill, 2 drachms ammo- niac, and 2 drachms ginger, with 3 drachms soap. Make up with syrup into 120 pills. 4925. Compound Storax Pills. Take 6 drachms of storax, 2 drachms of powdered opium, and 2 drachms of saffron ; work up to the proper consistency of a pill mass. Dose, from 5 to 10 grains. 4926. Sulphur Pills. The following formula furnish a convenient and neat method of administering sulphur when this useful medicine is required to be given as an altera- tive in chronic rheumatism and certain dis- eases of the skin : Take sulphur, 42 grains ; castile soap, 18 grains. Mix and divide into 12 pills. 1 to 3 pills for a dose, morning and night. Or : Take sulphur and acetate of po- tassa, of each 24 grains. Make up with suffi- cient confection of roses into 12 pills. 1 or 2 twice a day in scorbutic and scrofulous cases, and when sulphur generally is indicated. 4927. Sulphite of Soda Pills. Dr. Polli, who introduced the sulphites to the notice of the medical profession in certain blood diseases, recommends the following formula : Take powdered sulphite of soda, 36 grains; powdered ginger, 12 grains. Make up with mucilage into 12 pills. Dose, 1 to 3 soon after eating. These are given when the stomach is foul, and the food ferments and becomes putrescent. The sulphite of magne- sia, Dr. Polli says, is better for this purpose than sulphite of soda. Sulphur obtained by decomposing precipitated sulphide of copper, called brotvn sulphur, is stated by Dr. J. Han- non, an English Physician, to be a most powerful remedy against gout and rheuma- tism. 4928. Pepsine and Iron Pills. Mix together 2 drachms 34 grains starchy pepsine, and half that weight of iodide of iron in crystals, with sufficient syrup to make 100 pills. Cover them with 2 drachms reduced iron, and finish with sugar-coating. 4929. Compound Taraxacum Pills. Take -J drachm extract of taraxacum, and 10 grains blue pill. Make into 10 pills. Dose, 1 pill three times a day, in dropsy with disease of the liver. 4930. Pills of Iodide of Iron. Mix h troy ounce iodine with 1 fluid ounce water in a thin glass bottle ; add 2 drachms iron wire in small pieces, and shake together until a clear green solution is formed. Mix 1 troy ounce sugar, i troy ounce marshmallow, 1 drachm gum-arabic, and 1 drachm reduced iron, all in fine powder, in a porcelain capsule. Filter upon them, through a small filter, first the green solution, heated, and afterwards 2 fluid drachms water. Evaporate over a water- bath with constant stirring, to a mass, and divide it into 300 pills. Dissolve GO grains balsam of tolu in 1 fluid drachm ether, shako the pills in the solution until uniformly coated, and place them on a plate, occasionally stir- ring them until dry. Keep in a well stop- pered bottle. (U. S. PJi.) The iodide of iron pills, as ordinarily prepared, crumble by time and exposure ; but, made according to the above formula, they will undergo no change. This is the plan proposed by Prof. Procter in imitation of Blancard's Pills. (U. S. Dis.) Ointments, Salves, and Cerates. Ointments are unc- tuous preparations, that merely differ from cerates in consistence, being made and used in a similar manner. Their solidity should not exceed that of good butter, at the ordi- nary temperature of the atmosphere. When the active ingredients are pulverulent substan- ces, nothing can be more suitable to form the mass of the ointment than good lard, free from salt ; but when they are fluid, or semi- fluid, prepared suet, or a mixture of suet and lard, will be necessary to give a proper con- sistence to the compound; in some few in- stances wax is ordered for this purpose. Glycerine is now frequently prescribed in ointments, and is difficult to mix. Suppose it be ordered with zinc ointment, as is often the case, do not use ready-made zinc ointment, but weigh the proper quantity of oxide, rub the glycerine with it, and then add the lard. This makes a good smooth ointment which does not; separate. Of course, the same plan can be adopted svith any other powder. If there be no powder, melt the ointment, but do not let it get too hot, and beat the glycer- ine in and stir till cold ; it then mixes much better ; but still, if there be a large proportion of glycerine, it will separate after a time. (See No. 5009, ^-c.) Unctuous preparations may be prevented from getting rancid, by dis- solving in the fat a little gum-benzoin or ben- zoic acid. The term cerate is applied to those unguents which contain wax. A number of these preparations are given here, and others will be found, by referring to the Index, under their respective headings. 4932. Simple Cerate. Melt together 8 ounces lard, and 4 ounces white wax, stir- ring constantly until cold. ( U. S. Pli.) 4933. Spermaceti Cerate. Melt to- gether 2 ounces spermaceti, 8 ounces white wax, and 1 pint warm olive oil, and stir assi- duously until cold. This is used as a soft cooling dressing. As soon as the materials are melted, they should be moved from the fire, strained into a clean vessel, and stirred until cold. To facilitate the cooling, the ves- sel may be placed in cold water or a current of cold air. This will render the product both whiter and finer than when allowed to cool by itself. The operation of melting should be performed in a water-bath. On the large scale lard or suet is substituted for oil, by which means less wax is required. The following is a good form where a cheap 4,4:8 OINTMENTS, SALVES, AND CERATES. article is -wanted : Clarified mutton suet, Si- pounds ; vrhito wax and spermaceti, of each 4 pounds. As above. 4934. Chilblain Ointment. Take of gall-nuts, in very fine powder, 1 drachm avoirdnpcis ; spermaceti cerato (see No. 4933), 7 drachms ; mix, add pnro glycerine, 2 drachms, and rub the -whole to a uniform mass. An excellent application to obstinate broken chilblains, particularly -when used as a dressing. "When the parts are very painful, 1 ounce of compound ointment of galls may bo advantageously substituted for the galls and cerato ordered above. (Sec No. C003.) 4935. Family Salve. Take the root of fellow dock and dandelion, equal parts ; add good proportion of celandine and plantain. Extract the juices by steeping or pressing. Strain carefully, and simmer the liquid with sweet crearn, or fresh butter and mutton tallow, or sweet oil and mutton tallow. Simmer together until no appearance of the liquid remains. Before it is quite cold, put it into boxes. This is one of the most sooth- ing and healing preparations for burns, scalds, cuts, and sores of every every description. 4936. Salve for All Wounds. Take 1 pound hog's lard, 3 ounces white lead, 3 oun- ces red lead, 3 ounces bees'-wax, 2 ounces black resin, and 4 ounces common turpentine ; all these ingredients must bo put together in a pan, and boil of an hour ; the turpentine to be put in just before it is done enough, and give it a gentle boil afterwards. This is an excellent cure for burns, sores, or ulcers, as it first draws, then heals afterwards ; it is excel- lent fjr all wounds. 4937. Lard Ointment. Melt 2 pounds pure lard, add 3 fluid ounces rose-water, and beat them well together while hot. When cold, separate the congealed fat from the wator. This is simple lard ointment. 4938. Savine Ointment. Savine tops, dried and in fine powder, 1 drachm ; ointment of white wax (?imple ointment), 7 drachms; mix by trituration. 4939. Simple Ointment of White Wax. Olive oil, 5i fluid ounces; white wax, 2 ounces ; melted together and stirred while cooling. 4940. Spermaceti Ointment. Melt together 5 ounces spermaceti, 14 drachms white wax, and about 1 pint olive oil. The article commonly sold as spermaceti oint- ment is composed of 1 pound spermaceti, k pound white wax, and from 3 to 6 pounds pure lard. 4941. Camphor Ointment. Camphor, finely powdered, 1 ounce; lard, 2 ounces. Mix. It is designed to ripen indolent tumors. 4942. Compound Iodine Ointment. Mix 1 drachm iodide of potassium in very fine powder, with 2 ounces lard ; then add i drachm iodine dissolved in 1 fluid drachm rectified spirit. Fresh lard cannot always bo got, and as ^ng as simple cerate is directed to be made with white wax, an already rancid body, it happens very often that an ointment of iodide of potassium gets yellow, instead of being perfectly white. A few grains of hy- posulphite- of soda dissolved in a little water, added to such ointment, will havo the effect of turning it snow-white. 4943. Compound Belladonna Oint- ment. Mix 1 drachm fresh extract of bel- ladonna with 7 drachms of compound iodine ointment. (See No. 4942.) For dispersing glandular tumors, &c., which it is not desira- ble to mature. 4944. Ammoniacal Ointment. Melt 1 ounce each of suet and lard, in a strong wide-mouthed bottle; add 2 ounces liquor of ammonia of specific gravity .923, and close the bottle immediately. Then mix, by sha- king the bottle, until the contents harden. The fat should not bo heated any more than is sufficient to melt it, to prevent unneces- sary loss of ammonia. 4945. Catechu Ointment for Tropical Climates. An astringent ointment may be prepared, which is not likely to become soon rancid, as is the case with ointments made with fat. Melt 4 ounces resin in 4 pint olive oil ; add 1 ounce alum and 3 ounces catechu, both finely powdered. 4946. Stramonium Ointment. Mash bushel of green stramonium, or jimson leaves, to a pulp (this is best done by mash- ing a few leaves at a time), put the pulp in an iron kettle over a slow fire. Add 2| pounds fresh lard, and simmer to a crisp. Strain and box for use. Or: Take extract of stramonium, 1 drachm; lard, 1 ounce, and mix by trituration. This ointment is excellent for strengthening broken limbs after the bones have healed. It is also good for skin diseases, painful piles, ulcers, burns and as it scalds. It is probably the best ointment that can be kept in a family for general use. . 4947. Mercurial or Citrine Oint- ment. Dissolve by gentle heat, 4 ounces mercury (quicksilver) in 70 fluid drachms ni- tric acid cf specific gravity 1.5; add the liquid to 15 ounces lard and 32 fluid ounces olive oil ; stir together, increasing the heat until tho mixture froths. Keep it in air-tight earthen- ware or glass vessels. 4948. Mild Mercurial Ointment. This is made by mixing 1 pound mercurial ointment with 2 pounds lard. 4949. Magnetic Adeps. This is a pre- pared fat used tor making mercurial ointment, as it will reduce 30 to 40 times its -weight of quicksilver to salve. It is made by pouring melted lard, in a small stream, into cold water, placing the thin fragments thus obtained in a sieve covered with paper, or other suitable apparatus, and exposing it to the air for 3 or 4 months. 4950. Ointment of Iodide of Sulphur. Reduce 30 grains iodide of sulphur to a fine powder, rub it with a small portion taken from 1 trey ounce lard, then add the remain- der of tho ounce of lard, and mix them thoroughly. (U. S. Ph.) . 4951. Ointment of Borax. This is also called Pomade de Toscanic. Take of borax in very fine powder, 1 drachm avoir- dupois; spermaceti ointment, 1 ounce; mix by trituration. lu excoriations, chaps, arts of ground mustard and ground flax-seed, ind mix them thoroughly together, with >arely enough of water to make them of the hickness of common paste. To prevent sticking, a little glycerine or sweet oil is to )e added. The addition of bread crumbs serves to diminish, that of a little vinegar to ncrease the irritating power of the mustard. 5022. Strong Mustard Poultice. Mix the best English ground mustard with strong vinegar; spread it on a piece of book or tarleton muslin, to prevent its adhesion to the skin. Wet the part first with vinegar, and apply the poultice. 5023. Linseed Poultice. Take of lin- seefi, powdered, 4 ounces ; hot water, & pint. Gradually sprinkle the powder into, and stir well with a spoon. This is good and conve- nient for many cases. It is preferable to the bread and milk poultice so much in use, as it is not so liable to become brittle and hard when dry. It is very useful in carbuncle, obstinate inflammation, &c. 5024. Carrot Poultice. Take of boiled carrots, bruised, 1 pound; flour, 1 ounce; liut- ter, i ounce. Mix them with a sufficient quantity of hot water to form a pulp. This will be found a valuable application in ulcera- ted sores and swellings, scrofulous sores of an irritable kind, and many other inveterate ul- cers. 5025. Poultice for Sprains and Bruis- es. Carbonate ammonia, 2 ounces ; vinegar, 2 pints ; proof spirits, 3 pints. Mix the am- monia and vinegar; when the effervescence ceases, add the spirit. For inflammation of the joints, of some standing, mix with ani- seed meal, and use as a poultice twice a day. It is also valuable for sprains, bruises, and other injuries. 5026. Charcoal Poultice. Linseed meal, \ pound ; charcoal powder, 2 ounces ; hot wa- ter, sufficient to give it the necessary consist- ence. Or: Soak 2 ounces bread in i pint boiling water; add to this, by degrees, 10 drachms linseed meal; and, afterwards, 2 drachms powdered fresh charcoal ; then sprin- kle 1 drachm powdered charcoal on the sur- face of the poultice. This poultice is highly antiseptic ; that is to say, it has great power in cleansing ulcers and correcting a tendency to mortification. The power is derived from the charcoal, which is remarkable for its puri- fying energy. It should be frequently re- newed. Dr. Bird, in his work on the medical uses of charcoal, gives numerous proofs of the efficacy of this application. Besides purify- ing and healing, it conteracts the offensive smell arising from putrid sores. 5027. Yeast Poultice. Take of milk, blood- warm, 1 pint; 'yeast, 1 gill. Stir in fine slippery elm bark, to form a poultice. This is a good antiseptic and refrigerant poul- tice. Applied to gangrenous ulcers, it is more efficacious than any others; it sooner arrests mortification, used with proper auxili- aries. It is also very serviceable in other species of inflammation. 5028. Indian Turnip Poultice. Take of the tops and roots of Indian turnip, if green; if dry, the roots only; simmer in wa- ter, and add slippery elm bark sufficient to form a poultice. This poultice is used in the PLASTERS. 453 treatment of scrofula with the best effect. It is superior to every other poultice in scrofula, in a state of swelling and inflammation. 5029. Potato Poultice. Boil the com- mon potato, mash or bruise soft, and then stir in finely pulverized slippery elm bark. This poultice has been used with success in oph- thalmia (inflammation of the eyes) of an acute character, when other means have failed. 5030. Goulard's Poultice. It is thus made: Take Ik drachms extract of lead (solution of acetate of lead) ; rectified spirit of wine, 2 ounces ; water, 12 ounces ; bread- crumb, sufficient to make the whole into a proper consistence. This poultice is an excel- lent application to reduce swelling and inflam- mation, and to allay irritation. 5031. Lobelia Poultice. Linseed meal, i ounce ; slippery elm, 1 ounce ; powdered lobelia, li ounces; ginger, 1 ounce; whiskey sufficient to make it. Good for all inflamed parts, as the side in pleurisy, liver complaints, rheumatism, lumbago. 5032. Poultice for a Fester. Boil bread in lees of strong beer ; apply the poul- tice in the general manner. This has saved many a limb from amputation. 5033. Alum Poultice. Take of alum, in fine powder, 1 drachm avoirdupois, and the white of 2 eggs ; shake them together until they coagulate. Formerly much used in broken chilblains, chaps, sore nipples, chronic inflammation of the eyes, .repared as follows : Take 1 fluid ounce each )f the oils of lavender, cloves, cinnamon, thyme, lemon peel, and mace ; 3 fluid ounces each oil of berganiot and balsam Peru ; and 5 nuts alcohol. The oils and balsam are grad- ually added to the alcohol,, the whole well shaken and allowed to rest for a few days in a cool place, when it is filtered and ready for use. Different European Pharmacopoeias vary from each other somewhat in the proportion of the oils. 5113. Nervine Balsam or Baume Nerval. Expressed oil of mace, and pre- pared ox-marrow, of each 4 ounces melted together ; oil of rosemary, 2 drachms ; oil of cloves, 1 drachm ; camphor, 1 drachm ; bal- sam of tolu, 2 drachms; the last two dissolved in rectified spirit, 4 fluid drachms; and the whole stirred till cold. 5114. Balsam of Sulphur. Boil to- gether in a vessel, tightly covered, 1 part flow- ers of sulphur and 4 parts olive oil, until they assume the consistence of a thick bal- sam.. 5115. Balm of Rakasiri. Oil of rose- mary dissolved in common gin. 5116. Balsam de Malta. Gum benzoin, 2 ounces; gum aloes, 1 ounce; alcohol, 2 pints. Mix. r^OHlCS. Medicines that increase the JL tone of the muscular fibre, and impart vigor to the system. The principal mineral tonics are iron, zinc, copper, silver, arsenic, bismuth, mercury, and the mineral acids. The principal vegetable tonics are cinchona or Peruvian bark, cinchonine, quinine, the vege- table bitters, and some of the aromatics. Of the above, iron, bark, and its preparations, and the aromatic bitters, are those generally em- ployed, and which prove most genial to the constitution. 5118. Stomachic Elixir. Pare off the thin yellow rinds cf 6 large oranges, and put them in a quart bottle with 1 ounce gentian root, scraped and sliced, and drachm cochi- neal. Pour over these ingredients a pint of brandy ; shake the bottle well several times during that and the following day; let it stand 2 days more to settle, and clear it off into bottles for use. Take 1 or 2 tea-spoonfuls morning and afternoon, in a glass of wine or in a cup of tea. This elegant preparation is a most valuable tonic. 5119. Stomachic Elixir. Gentian root, 2 ounces ; bitter oranges, sliced, 1 ounce; Yir- ginia snake-root, ounce. Bruise, and infuse for 4 days in 1 pint of brandy ; then add 1 pint of water. A wine-glassful to be -taken occasionally. Good for flatulency, indigestion, want of appetite, &c. 5120. Tonic Infusion. Gentian root, sliced, k ounce; dried orange peel, bruit-ed, coriander seeds, bruised, of each 1 drachm ; ANODYNES DIAPHORETICS. 4,59 boiling water, 12 ounces. Macerate for an hour in a lightly covered vessel, and strain the liquor. This infusion is often most bene- ficially employed in general debility, chronic fout, indigestion, and other ailments. The ose is from 1 to 2 ounces taken 3 or 4 times a day. 5121. Infusion of Calumba. Calumba root, 1 drachm ; boiling water, pint. Mace- rate for 4 hours and strain, adding afterwards ounce of spirit of cinnamon. The dose is Ik or 2 ounces. It is an excellent tonic, and is held in high esteem by many eminent phy- sicians, who employ it in the latter stage of diarrhffia, bilious intermittent fever, and puer- peral fever. It is also a good preparation for allaying the nausea and vomiting which often accompany pregnancy. 5122. Orange Tonic. Orange peel, 1 ounce ; chamonnle flowers, 1J ounces, and a little ginger. Put in 1 pint of boiling water. Add k a wine-glassful of brandy. Take a wine-glassful at a time. 5 1 23. Spackman's Tonic and Nervine Mixture. Take A drachm sulphate of quinine, 6-? grains tannin, 1 ounce ginger syrup, 6 drachms fluid extract of valerian, and 2 drachms compound tincture of cardamoms. Dose, a tea-spoonful 4 times a day. 5124 Tonic Aromatic Mixture. Di- gest in a cfose vessel for 3 days, agitating frequently, 1 ounce powdered pale cinchona bark, 3 drachms powdered caluinba root, 2 drachms bruised cloves, and k ounce iron filings in 16 fluid ounces peppermint water ; strain, and add 3 fluid ounces compound tincture of cardamoms, and 3 fluid drachms tincture of orange peel. Dose, 1 or 2 table- spoonfuls or more, 3 or 4 times a day. 5125. Tonic Pills. Extract of gentian, 2 scruples ; sulphate of iron, 16 grains ; sul- phate of quinine, 10 grains. Mix, and form into pills. Take 1 pill'three times a day. 5126. Tonic Tincture. Peruvian bark, bruised, Ik ounces; orange peel, bruised, 1 ounce ; brandy, or proof spirit, 1 pint. Infuse 10 days ; shake the bottle every day. Pour off the liquor, and strain. Take a tea-spoon- ful in a wine-glassful of water twice a day, when you feel languid. 5127. Decoction of Red or Peruvian Bark. Bruised red bark, 1 ounce ; water, 1 pint. Boil for 10 minutes in a covered vessel, and strain the liquor while hot. 5128. Infusion of Red or Peruvian Bark. Red bark, bruised, 1 ounce ; boiling water, 1 pint. Macerate for 2 hours in a cov- ered vessel, and strain. This is of great use in convalescence from acute diseases. It con- tains a considerable amount of the febrifuge and strengthening qualities of the quinine. 5129. Dr. Thompson's Bitters. Bal- inony bark, 1 part ; poplar bark, 5 parts. Boil in water sufficient to strain 24 gallons of water from a pound of the bark, to which add sugar, 3 pounds ; nerve powder, 2k oun- ces; while hot, strain, and add best Malaga wine, 3& gallons ; tincture of meadow-fern, 1 quart. A less quantity may be made by observing the proper proportions. Dose, from half to a wine-glassful twice a day. These bitters are excellent. They are sure to correct the bile, and create an appetite by giving tone to the digestive powers. Medicines which allay pain. Some act by actually assuaging pain ; others by inducing sleep ; a third class give ease by stupefying the senses, or lessen- ing the susceptibility to pain. Among the principal anodynes are opium, morphia, cam- phor, ether, chloroform, nitrous oxide or laughing gas, 1 ounce of each ; boil in a quart of water, strain, then add 30 ounces of gum- arabic, 20 ounces of white sugar, and 2 drachms tincture of tolu ; dissolve, strain, and evaporate to the proper consistence. 5270. Dennis* Patent Anti-spasmod- ic Tincture. Take 1 ounce each tincture of scullcap, valerian, myrrh, and capsicum; 2 ounces tincture of lobelia; a little soda; and sufficient water. 5271. Goitre Jelly. Better known, perhaps, under the French name GcUe pour le Goitre. Dissolve 1 ounce white soap in 2 ounces of proof spirit by a gentle heat ; and add to it, while still warm, a warm solution of 5 drachms iodido of potassium in 2 ounces proof spirit. A few drops of any fragrant and essential oil may be added. 5272. Mettauer's Aperient Solution. Take of socotrino aloes, 2i ounces; super- carbonate of soda, 6 drachms; water, 4 pints; compound spirits of lavender, 2 ounces. After digesting 14 days, the clear liquor may be either decanted or allowed to re- main. Age is said to improve both the pow- ers and taste of the solution. The common dose is 1 drachm, which may be increased, if necessary, to an ounce. It is recommended as a valuable remedy in most forms of constipa- tion, taken soon after meals. 5273. Coxe's Hive Syrup. Put 1 ounce each squills and Seneca snake-root into 1 pint water ; boil down to one-half and strain. Then add ^ pound clarified honey containing 12 grains tartrate of antimony. Dose for a child, 10 drops to 1 tea-spoonful, according to age. An excellent remedy for croup. 5274. Bateman's Sulphur "Wash. Break 1 ounce sulphur, and pour over it 1 quart of boiling water; allow it to infuse for 12 or 14 hours, and apply it to the face 2 or 3 times a day, for a few weeks. This ap- plication is equally useful in removing that roughness of the skin which generally suc- ceeds pimples. 5275. Allcock's Porous Plaster. The only difference between this plaster and ordinary adhesive plasters is, that rubber is used in the place of lead plaster. It is a good addition, and very generally recognized by makers of adhesive plasters. Take rubber, 1 pound ; pitch, i pound ; thus, i poimd ; and capsicum, 30 grains. The plaster, as offered for sale, is spread upon muslin or linen, in which small holes have been punched out, allowing vent for perspiration, and affording increased flexibility. These plasters adhere very firmly, frequently requiring the applica- tion of heat (by means of a hot towel or warm flat-iron), for their removal. The skin may be cleansed after the removal of tho plaster, by rubbing with sweet oil, until the remains of the plaster are dissolved ; wiping it off, and washing with warm water and soap. 5276. Poor Man's Plaster. Take bees'- wax, 1 ounce ; tar, 3 ounces ; resin, 3 ounces. To be melted together and spread on paper or muslin. 5277. Universal Plaster. A plaster is officinal in several of the European Phar- macopeias, under different names, which ap- pears to be identical with Keyser's Universal Plaster, which is sold extensively in this country as a nostrum. The following is the formula of the Prussian Pharmacopoeia: Take of red-lead, in ve^ fine powder, 8 ounces ; olive oil, 16 ounces. Boil them in a proper vessel with constant agitation until the whole has assumed a blackish-brown color, then add yellow wax, 4 ounces ; and after this has been melted and well mixed, add 2 drachms camphor, previously dissolved in a little olive oil. Pour it out into suitable boxes, or into paper capsules, to be cut into square cakes when cold. 5278. Devil Plaster. Cases of severe wounds are said to have healed without sup- puration after 17 or more days by the use of this plaster. It has also been successfully applied to fractures and tumors. Take 15 drachms black pitch, 15 drachms dry resin, 2h drachms dried earth-worms in powder, 8 drachms essential oil of turpentine, and 1 scruple crude alum. Mix well. This plaster was much used by an old surgeon of Morello, and by his sons, for the cure of wounds with- out the loss of substance. The composition, which they kept secret, is now published to the world by M. Escorihuela. He obtained the secret from one of the heirs. 468 PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES. 5279. "Wallace's Pills. Take socotrine aloes, scammony, arid soap, all in powder, blue mass and compound extract of colocynth, 1 scruple each, to make 20 pills. 5280. Canada Liniment. Take water of ammonia, olive oil, oil of turpentine, and alcohol, of each 1 ounce ; oil of peppermint, i ounce. Mix. 5281. St. John Long's Liniment. "White and yolk of 1 egg; oil of turpentine, 6 ounces ; acetic acid, 1 ounce ; oil of lemon, 12 drops ; and rose-water, 5 ounces. Mix. 5282. Brodie's Liniment. Take of sul- phuric acid, 1 drachm; olive oil and oil of turpentine, of each 1 ounce. Add the acid gradually to the olive oil, stirring it in a mor- tar ; when cool, add the oil of turpentine and mix. 5283. Good Old Samaritan Liniment. Mix together 2 gallons alcohol, 12 ounces oil origanum, 4 ounces oil hemlock, and 2 oun- ces each of oil of cedar, balsam of fir, spear- mint, balsam of life (see No. 5112), oil of sassafras, oil of wintergreen, spirits of turpen- tine, and sulphuric ether. Mix. 5284. Physic's Issue Ointment. Powdered cantharides, ^ ounce ; rose water, 2 fluid ounces; tartar emetic, 15 grains. Apply heat and evaporate the rose-water one-half; strain, and add olive oil, 3 ounces; white wax, li ounces; spermaceti, 1 ounce. Mix, and apply a gentfo heat until all the water has been driven off. When the manipulations have been conducted with care, the cerate is light in color. 5285. Beach's Black Plaster or Heal- ing Salve. Take of olive oil, 3 quarts; common resin, 3 ounces; bees'-wax, 3 ounces. Melt these articles together, and raise the oil almost to boiling heat; then gradually add of pulverized red lead 2h pounds, if in the sum- mer; if in the winter, J pound less. In a short time after the lead is taken up by the oil, and the mixture becomes brown or a shi- ning black, remove from the fire, and, when nearly cold, add i ounce pulverized camphor. 5286. M'KenzLe's Ointment. Powder- ed sulphate of zinc, 4 ounces; liquid storax, 1 ounce; melted lard, 16 ounces. Mix by means of heat and triturate over a water-bath for about an hour. A useful application for tetter and scald-head. Apply night and morning, first washing the part with Castile soap and warm water. 5287. Conklin's Salve. Take resin, 12 ounces ; bees'-wax, mutton suet, and tallow, of each 1 ounce. Melt together, strain the mixture through muslin, and work into rolls in a bath of cold water. 5288. Newell's Compound Tar Oint- ment. Lard and mutton suet, of each 12 ounces; tar, 6 ounces; bees'-wax, 3 ounces; powdered black hellebore, 4 drachms; melt and strain, then add flowers of sulphur, 4 ounces. Used for tetters, salt rheum, itch, r with ground glass, and in tho centre of the horn or glass is to be made a small hole. It is obvious that to see with the squinting eye :*-:.. j A. \ t_ i ^ A _ i _ . v_ _i i ^ through the orifice in the centre. He will thus acquire the habit of looking forward towards an object, instead of looking to tto right or left hand of it. It is not at all im- probable that the slight squint, which in in- fancy is apparently only a habit, may be reme- died by this means. 5791. Treatment of Styes. A stye is a small boil which projects from the eyelid, much inflamed, and very painful. The appli- cation of ice to tho part will sometimes check it in the beginning. Apply a poultice of lin- seed meal, or bread and milk, and take at the same time an aperient. If the stye is ripe, puncture it, and then apply spermaceti oint- ment. 5792. To Treat a Black Eye. This is usually caused by a blow. If attended with inflammation and pain, wash the eye often with very warm water, in which is dissolved a little carbonate of soda,; or with equal parts of tincture of opium and .water. If the pain bo acute, foment with a decotion of stramo- nium leaves, simmered in spirits. "Wash the eye, and bind on the leaves; often repeat. Perhaps tho best application is a poultice of slippery elm bark. Mix with milk and put it To Cure a Black Eye. To re- on warm. 5793. move tho discoloration of the eye, bind on a poultice made of the root of Solomon's seal. Culpepper says it is available for bruises, falls, or blows, to dispel the congealed blood, and to take away tho pains, and the black and blue marks that remain after the hurt. , The root may be washed, the dark-colored ' skin carefully cut off, then scraped like horse- radish, and applied direct to the eye in the way of a poultice, cold. A tingling sen- sation is tho consequence ; when this sen- sation ceases, another fresh application should be made, and repeated until the whole dis- coloration is absorbed. It is often found suffi- cient to apply the scraped root at bed-time to tho closed eye, when the blackness has dis- appeared by the morning. Or: Moisten with tepid water, and then with a piece of lint ap- ply pure extract of lead ; continue to keep the lint wet with the extract for a couple of hours. Leeches ought not to be used. A lotion often used by surgeons with advantage is prepared thus : Take nitrate of potassa and sal-ammonia, each 1 part; water, 48 parts; vinegar, 4 parts. The part bruised to be kept wet with this by means of a bandage. 5794. To Remove Dirt or Foreign Particles from the Eye. Take a hog's bristle, double so as to form a loop. Lift the eyelid and gently insert the loop up over tho ball, which will occasion no disagreeable feel- ing. Xow close the lid down upon the bris- tle, which may now be withdrawn. The dirt will surely be upon the bristle. M. Renard, in the case of small movable bodies which become entangled beneath the upper eyelid, recommends the following simple process : Take hold of the upper eyelid near its angle.- 1 , with the forefinger and thumb of each hand, draw it gently forwards and as low down as possible over the lower eyelid, and retain it in this position for about a minute, taking caro to prevent the tears from flowing out. When, .. . at the end of this time, you allow the eyelid it is necessary for tho child to look directly | to resume its place, a flood of tears washes MEDICAL RECEIPTS. out the foreign body, which will be found ad- 1 5801. Anodyne Eye- water. Solution, hering to, or near to, the lower eyelid. If of acetate of ammonia, 2 ounces; distilled lime gets into the eyes, a few drops of vinegar and water will dissolve and remove it. Al- mond or (dive oil will do away with any hot fluid that may reach the eye. 5795. To Expel Insects, Dirt, &c., from the Eye. The first thing to be done when a mote or spark gets into your eye, is to pull down the lower part of the eyelid, and with a handkerchief in your hand blow your nose violently at the same moment. This will frequently expel the mote without further trouble. A mote will, in many cases, come out of itself, by immediately holding your eye wide open in a cup or glass filled" to the brim with clear cold water. 5796. To Extract Particles of Iron or Steel from the Eye. A particle cf iron or steel may be extracted from the eye by holding near it a powerful magnet. 5797. Eye- Waters. Eye-waters should be perfectly clear, and free from any floating matter, however trifling. To secure this, it is in general necessary either to filter them through bibulous paper,. or a piece of clean, fine muslin, or to carefully decant them after sufficient repose to allow the impurities to subside. When pure distilled water is used in their preparation, only some of them will require filtering. In using eye- waters, a little of the liquid should be poured into a clean cup, gallipot, or glass, or into the clean palm of the left hand, when the eye should bo water, hot, C ounces ; soft extract of opium, 10 grains. Dissolve the opium in the hot wa- ter, strain through fine muslin, and add tho solution of the acetate of ammonia. This application frequently affords great relief from the pain and irritation accompanying inflammation. 5802. Eye-water for Specks on the Eye. Oxymuriate of mercury, 5 grain; best rose-water, 4 ounces. This solution is of much use in removing the indolent inflam- mation and the white specks which an acuto inflammation of the eyes frequently leaves after it. 5803. Bates' Eye-water. Dissolve in 4 fluid ounces boiling water, 15 grains dry sul- phate of copper (sec No. 5797), and 4 grains camphor. When cold, add water to make it 4 pints, and filter. Good in purulent oph- thalmia. 5804. Goulard's Eye-water. Solution diacetate of lead, 10 drops; rose or elder- flower water, G fluid ounces. Mix. Good in inflammatory stage of ophthalmia. 5305. Wash for Removing Particles of Iron or Zinc from the Eye. Muriatic acid, 20 drops ; mucilage, 1 drachm ; mix with 2 fluid ounces rose-water. 5806. To Allay Temporary Irritation or Weakness in the Eye. Temporary in- flammation, produced by cold or external causes, 13 rapidly allayed by frequently bath- thoroughly wetted with it, either by means of ing the eye with lukewarm milk and water, small piece of clean sponge or soft white rag, or the clean tips of the fingers of the right hand. In all cases it is advisable to bathe or wash the e3 r es in tepid water, and to wipe them dry, before tho application of the eye-water; and, in most cases, this is abso- lutely necessary to insure benefit from their use. In the preparation of eye-waters, sub- stances of crystalline formation are better when used dry, that is, deprived of their wa- ter of crystallization. (Sec No. 2035.) . 5798. Astringent Eye-water. Take of sulphate of zinc, 20 grains ; distilled water, i pint ; dissolve. An excellent astringent eye-water, in chronic as well as ordinary ophthalmia, as soon as the inflammatory symptoms subside; also in weak, lax, wa- tery, irritable eyes, &c. If there bo much pain and irritability, 5 or 6 grains of acetate of morphia, or 2 fluid drachms of wine of opium, may be added. 5799. Eye-water for Weak Eyes. Take & ounce rock salt and 1 ounce of dry sulphate of zinc ; simmer in a perfectly clean covered porcelain vessel with 3 pints of water until all are dissolved ; strain through thick muslin, add 1 ounce of rose-water ; bottle and cork it tight. To use it, mix 1 tea-spoonful of rain-water, with 1 of eye-water, and bathe the eyes, if weak, frequently. If it smarts too much, add more water; if not enough, make it a little stronger by adding more eye- water. This is an admirable wash for weak eyes. It cannot be excelled. 5800. Wash for Inflamed Eyes. Take 10 drops extract of lead (the liquor of acetate of lead); distilled vinegar, 2 drachm;;; distill- ed water, 4 ounces. This is an excellent wash for inflamed eyes. or rose-water ; applied either with a linen rag or by means of an eye-glass. A poultice of tea-leaves (the wet leaves left in the tea-pot) is also an excellent remedy. Probably tho best remedy of all is to put a table-spoonful of salt in a basin of water (say gallon), immerse the face in this twice a day, opening the eyes under the water, and using fresh salt and water every day. Tho eyes should under no circumstance be rubbed, as that will increase the irritation. 5807. Atropine Paper. Green tissue paper imbued with a solution of sulphate of atropia, so that a piece one-fifth of an inch square contains as much as a drop of a solu- tion 2 grains to 1 ounce of water. The paper is hung up and turned about while drying. A piece of the size named will dilate tho pupil if placed on the sclerotic, and the lids closed over it and tied with a handkerchief. 5808. Belladonna Mixture for Cata- ract. Triturate together 1 drachm each ex- tract of belladonna and glycerine. Used for dilating the pupil of the eye in cataract, by anointing the eyebrow and temple. 5809. Taylor's B-emedy for Deafness. Digest 2 ounces bruised garlic in 1 pound oil of almonds for a week, and strain. A drop poured into the ear is effective in temporary deafness. 5810. Treatment of Earache. M. Emile Duval says that he has, in person, found relief iu. severe earache, after other means had been tried in vain, from the use of a mixture of equal parts of chloroform and laudanum; a little being introduced on a piece of cotton. The first effect produced is a sensation of cold; then there is numbness, followed by scarcely perceptible pain and refreshing sleep. 60-1- MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 5811. Cure for the Earache. Take a small piece of cotton batting or cotton wool, make a depression in the centre with the fin- ger, and fill it up with as much ground pepper as will rest on a five-cent piece ; gather it into a ball and tie it up ; dip the ball into sweet oil and insert it in the ear, covering the latter with cotton wool, and use a bandage or cap to retain it in its place. Almost instant relief will be experienced, and the application is so gentle that an infant will not be injured by it, but experience relief, as well as adults. 1 part laudanum and 6 parts sweet oil dropped in the ear is also very effectual. 5812. Simple Cure for Earache. Take a common tobacco-pipe, place a wad of cotton in the bowl, drop upon it 8 or 10 drops of chloroform, and cover with another wad of cotton ; place the stem to the affected ear, then blow into the bowl, and in many cases the pain will cease almost immediately. 5813. Remedy for Inflammation of the Ear. Swelling and redness, attended with throbbing, indicates it. If caused by accumulation of wax, syringe the ear forcibly with tepid water. If by cold, a poultice of warm hops, soaking the feet. If the pain is great, 1 drop laudanum and 2 drops sweet oil of almonds dropped into the ear 3 times a day, or juice of onions and laudanum. A slice of onion, toasted and tied on hot outside the ear, Is a good remedy for earache in children, and often effective with adults. If very severe, a mustard poultice can be held behind the ear. If the stomach is out of order use an emetic. If no relief comes, call a physician. 5814. Remedy for Temporary Deaf- ness. If deaf from hardened wax in the ear, a mixture of sassafras oil, 10 drops ; glycerine, 1 fluid drachm; olive oil, ^ fluid ounce, mixed, may be dropped into the ear every day. If deaf from other causes, go to the physician. 5815. Cure for Temporary Deafness. Inject warm water into the ear by means of a proper syringe, the head being placed with that side upwards during the operation. 5816. To Destroy Insects in the Ear. Insects may be destroyed by pouring a spoon- ful of warm olive oil, or camphorated oil, into the ear over night, retaining it there until the next morning by means of a piece of cotton wool, when it may be washed out with a little mild soap and warm water. 5817. To Cure Habitual Drunken- ness. The following singular means of cur- ing habitual drunkenness is employed by Dr. Schreiber, a Kussian physician: It consists in confining the drunkard in a room, and in fur- nishing him at discretion with his favorite spirit diluted with - of water ; as much wine beer, and coffee as he desires, but containing J of spirit; all the food the bread, meat, anc the vegetables steeped in spirit and water. The poor patient is continually drunk. On the fifth day of this treatment he has an ex- treme disgust for spirit ; he earnestly request? other diet ; but his desire must not bo yielded to, until ho no longer desires to cat or drink he is then certainly cured of his love of drink He acquires such a disgust for brandy, or other epirits, that he is ready to vomit at the very Bisrht of it. 5818. Tonic After Drinking to Excess Mix together 5 grains sulphate cf quinine ; 10 drops aromatic sulphuric acid ; i ounce com- pound tincture of gentian; 2 drachms com- >ound tincture of cardamoms ; IJr ounces gin- rer syrup; and 2 ounces water. A table- spoonful administered 3 times a day will remove the prostrating effects of drinking to excess. 5819. Remedy for Chafing. Stout per- ons suffer greatly, cspecialiy in warm weath- \v, from chafing. We know of nothing' better ;han a wash of alum dissolved in water, and applied with a linen or cotton rag. 5820. Lotion for Bed-Sores. To 1 ;able-spoonful of powdered alum put 1 teacup- ? ul of whiskey and bathe the sore part several ;imes a day. 5821. To Relieve Irritation in Bed- Sores. Apply to the sores the white of an egg, well beaten, and mixed with spirits of wine. 5822. To Prevent and Cure Chapped Hands. Wash the hands with fine soap; and before removing the soap, scrub the hands with a table-spoonful of Indian meal, rinsing thoroughly with soft tepid water, using a lit- tle meal each time except the last ; wipe the hands perfectly dry; then rinse them in a very little water containing a tea-spoonful of pure glycerine, rubbing the hands together until the water has evaporated. This is an excel- lent remedy, but the glycerine must be pure, or it will irritate instead of healing. 5823. Treatment of the Nails. The nails should be kept clean by the daily use of the nail-brush and soap and water. After wiping the hands, but while they are still' soft from the action of the water, gently push back the skin which is apt to grow over the nails, which will not only keep them neatly round- ed, but will prevent the skin cracking around their roots (hang-nails), and becoming sore. The points of the nails should be pared at least once a week; biting them should be avoided. 5824. To Remove Warts. A daily application of either of the three following remedies is effective in dispersing warts: Touch the wart with a little nitrate of silver (lunar caustic); or with nitric acid or aro- matic vinegar. The lunar caustic produces a black, and the nitric acid a yellow stain, which passes off in a short time; the vinegar scarce- ly discolors the skin. Sparks of frictional electricity, repeated daily, by applying the warts to the conductor of an electrical ma- chine, have been also successfully employed as a cure for these troublesome and unsightly excrescences. 5825. Wart or Corn Powder. Ivy- leaves dried and ground to fine powder. A popular and useful remedy for warts and soft corns. The part having been moistened with strong vinegar, a pinch of the powder is sprinkled on it, and then bound on with a strip of rag. This is sometimes called cos- metic vegetable caustic. A mixture of equal parts of saviue and verdigris also make an effi- cacious wart powder. 5826. To Remove Moles. Croton oil, under the form of pomade or ointment, and potassio-tartrate of antimony (tartar emetic), under the form of paste or plaster, have each recently been successfully employed for the removal of ordinary moles and birth-marks. MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 5O5 The following is the mode of using the latter adopted by au eminent French surgeon : Take tartar emetic iu impalpable powder, 15 grains; soap plaster, 1 drachm ; and beat them to a paste. Apply this paste to nearly a line in thickness (not more), and cover the whole with strips of gummed paper. Iu 4 or 5 days eruption or suppuration will set in, and, in a few days after, leave, iu place of the birth- mark, only a very slight scar. Croton oil ointment effects the same, but less completely unless repeated, by producing a pustular erup- tion, which, however, does not permanently mark the skin. (See No. 57G2.) 5827. Ingrowing Toe Nails. This most painful of the diseases of the nails is caused by the improper manner of cutting the nail (generally of the great toe), and then wearing a short, badly-made shoe. The nail beginning to grow too long, and rather wide at the corners, is trimmed around the corner, which gives temporary relief. But it then begins to grow wider in the side where it was cut off; and, as the shoe presses the flesh against the corner, the nail cuts more and more into the raw flesh, which becomes ex- cessively tender and irritable. If this state continue long the toe becomes more and more painful aud ulcerated, and proud-flesh sprouts up from the sorest points. "Walking greatly increases the suffering, till positive rest be- comes indispensable. 5828. Treatment of Ingrowing Toe Nails. Begin the effort at cure by simple application to the tender part of a small quan- tity of perchloride of iron. It is found in drag stores in a fluid form, though sometimes in powder. There is immediately a moderate sensation of pain, constriction or burning. In a few minutes the tender surface is felt to be dried up, tanned or mummified, and it ceases t.) be painful. Tho patient, who before could not put his foot to the floor, now finds that he can walk upon it without pain. By permit- ting the hardened, wood-like flesh to remain for 2 or 3 weeks, it can be easily removed by soaking the foot in warm water. A new and healthy structure is found firm and solid, below. If thereafter the nails be no more cut around the corners or sides, but always curved in across the front end, they will in future grow only forwards ; and by wearing a shoe of reasonably good size and shape, all further trouble will be avoided. 5829. To Prevent the Nail Growing into the Toe. If the nail of your toe be hard, aud apt to grow round, and into the corners of your toe, take a piece of broken glass and scrape the top very thin; do this whenever you cut your nails, and, by constant use, it makes the corners fly up and grow flat, so that it i.s impossible they should give you any pain. Do not fail to try this. 5830. Remedy for Blistered Feet from Long Walking. Kub the feet, at g.iing to bed, witli spirits, mixed with tallow dropped from a lighted candle into the pahn of the hand. 5831. Method of Preventing Cold Feet at Bed-time. Draw off your stockings just before undressing, and rub your ankles and feet well with your hand, as hard as you can bear the pressure, for 5 or 10 minutes, and you will never have to complain of cold feet in bed. It is hardly conceivable what a pleasurable glow this diffuses. Frequent washing of the feet, and rubbing them thor- oughly dry with a linen cloth or flannel, is very useful. 5832. Chilblain. This i.i an inflamma- tory swelling, of a purple or lead color, pro- duced by the action of cold. Children, espe- cially those of a scrofulous habit, and elderly persons, are generally most liable to chil- blains. Tho common cause is holding the hands or feet to the fire, after exposure to cold. The sudden change of temperature partially destroys the vitality, and prevents the proper flow of blood through the part. As chilblain is only another name for a lan- guid circulation iu the part affected, indicated by a congested skin, or a low form of inflam- mation, the value of most of the following receipts will be apparent when it is noticed that they are all calculated to act as stimulants of the blood-vessels, and thus promote the motion of the partially stagnant blood which gives rise to the heat and itching that are so distressing. (See No. 5006.) 5833. Remedy for Broken Chilblains. Mix together 4 fluid ounces collodion, 1| fluid ounces Venice turpentine, and 1 fluid ounce castor oil. 5834. Zinc "Wash for Chilblains. Dis- solve 1 ounce sulphate of zinc in 1 pint water. Apply several times a day. 5835. Chilblain Lotion,. Dissolve 1 ounce muriate of ammonia in i pint cider vinegar, and apply frequently, i pint alco- hol may be added to this lotion with good effects. 5836. Petroleum Liniment for Chil- blains. Nothing appears of such uniform utility for allaying the inflammatory irrita- tion, as the ordinary petroleum or kerosene oil. 5837. To Cure Chilblains. M. W. E. Schaller says that the fluid concentrated chloride of iron is an unfailing remedy for chilblains, its application to them for a single day effecting a cure. It may also be used with advantage for frost-bites. 5838. Remedy for Severe Chilblains. From 10 to GO grains nitrate of silver dis- solved in 1 fluid ounce water has been some- times found useful after other applications had appeared of no benefit. Tincture of cantharides, to stimulate almost to blistering, has also been used in the more intractable forms of the disease. The tincture of capsi- cum has been presented as a specific in this disease. 5839. Chilblain Balm. Boil together 10 fluid ounces olive oil, 2 fluid ounces Venice turpentine, and 1 ounce yellow wax; strain, and while still warm add, constantly stirring, 2k drachms balsam of Peru, and 9 grains camphor. Another formula for making this balm adds i ounce alkauet root, but employs i drachm less of the balsam of Peru. This is applied by being spread on a soft cloth and laid on the part affected. 5840. Chilblain Liniment. Mix to- gether 1 fluid ounce rectified oil of turpentine, 15 drops sulphuric acid, and 2 ounces olive oil. This, rubbed gently on the chilblains twice a day, is generally very effective. 506 MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 5841. To Cure Chilblains. The follow- ing remedy was published by order of the Wirtemberg government. Mutton tallow and lard, of each f pound avoirdupois ; melt in an iron vessel and add hydrated oxide of iron, 2 ounces; stirring continually with an iron spoon, until the mass is of u uniform black color ; then let it cool, and add Venice turpen- tine, 2 ounces ; and Armenian bole, 1 ounce ; oil of bergamot, 1 drachm ; rub up the bole with a little olive oil before putting it in. Apply several times daily by putting it upon lint or linen. It heals the worst cases in a few days. 5842. Russian Remedy for Chil- blains. Slices of the rind of fully-ripe cu- cumbers, dried with the soft parts attached. Previous to use they are softened by soaking them in warm water, and are then bound on the sore parts with the inner side next them, and left on all night. This treatment is said to be adopted for both broken and unbroken chilblains. 5843. Remedy for Itching Feet from Frost-bites. Take hydrochloric acid, 1 ounce ; rain, water. 7 ounces ; wash the feet with it 2 or 3 times daily, or wet the socks with the preparation until relieved. 5844. To Cure Slight Frost-bites. The remedy for this is long-continued friction with the hands or cold flannel, avoiding the fire or even a heated apartment. 5845. To Correct an Offensive Smell in the Feet. Bathe them in a weak solu- tion of permanganate of potassa ; 1 scruple of the salt to 8 ounces of water. (See No. 1701.) 5846. Powder for Absorbing Excess- ive Perspiration of the Feet. Mix to- gether 7 ounces carbonate of magnesia, 2 ounces powdered calcined alum, 7 ounces orris root, and i drachm powdered cloves. 5847. Corns. Corns are entirely owing to continued pressure, such as wearing small boots or shoes. At first they are the produc- tion of the outer skin only, but by gradually thickening they at length come to be connect- ed with the true skin beneath, and even with the subjacent muscles. (See Nos. 5079 and 50GO.) 5848. To Prevent Corns. Prevention is better than cure. Wear woolen stockings, and see that there is no local and permanent pressure on auy part of the foot. 5849. To Cure Corns. If a cure be requisite, soak the corn for i hour in a solu- tion of soda, and pare as close as possible ; then apply a plaster of the following ingredi- ents : Take of purified ammonia and yellow wax, of each 2 ounces ; and acetate of copper, 6 drachms. Melt the first two ingredients together, and, after removing them from the fire, add the acetate of copper just before they grow cold. Spread this ointment on a piece of soft leather or on linen, and apply it to the corn, removing it in two weeks. 5850. To Cure Soft Corns. The soft corn occurs between tbe toes, and is produced in the same manner as the common corn ; but in consequence of the moisture existing in this situation, tho thickened scarf-skin be- comes saturated, and remains permanently soft. The soft corn is best relieved by cutting away the thick skin with a pair of scissors, avoiding to wound the flesh ; then touching it with a drop of Friar's balsam, and habitually a piece of cotton wool between tLo toes, changing the cotton daily. Tincture of arnica, applied on a piece of cotton wool, is also said to be an excellent remedy. 5851. To Cure Soft Corns. Dip a piece of linen rag in turpentine and wrap round the toe on which the corn is situated, night and morning. The relief will be almost immediate, and in a few days the corn will disappear. 5852. To Believe Hard Corns. Bind them up at night with arnica, to relieve the pain. During the day, occasionally moisten the stocking over the corn with arnica, if tho shoe is not large enough to allow the corn being bound up with a piece of linen rag. 5853. Remedy for Corns. Soak tho feet well in warm water, then with a sharp instrument pare off as much of the corn as can be done without pain, and bind up the part affected, with a piece of linen or muslin thoroughly saturated with sperm oil, or, what is better, the oil which floats upon the surface of the pickle of herring or mackerel. After 3 or 4 days tho dressing may be removed, and the remaining dead cuticle removed by scrap- ing, when the new skin will be fouud of a soft and healthy texture and less liable to the for- mation of a new corn than before. 5854. To Relieve Corns. Take a lemon, cut off a small piece, then nick it so as to let in the toe with the corn, tie this on at night, so that it cannot move, and in tho morning you will find that, with a blunt knife, you may remove a considerable portion of the corn. Make two or three applications, and great relief will be the result. 5855. Remedy for Corns. Tho pain occasioned by corns may be greatly alleviated by the following preparation : Into a 1-ounce phial put 2 drachms of muriatic acid and 6 drachms of rose-water. "With this mixture wet the corns night and morning for 3 dcnys. Soak the feet every evening in warm water without soap. Put one-third of the acid into the water, and, with a little picking, the com will be dissolved. 5856. Liquid Solvent for Corns; Corn Solvent. A saturated solution of salt of tartar or pearlash. It is commonly obtained by exposing the article, contained in a jar or wide-mouthed bottle, in a damp place, until it forms an oil-like liquid. 5857. To Cure Bunions. A bunion is a swelling on the ball of the great toe, and is the result of pressure and irritation by fric- tion. The treatment for corns applies also to bunions ; but, in consequence ot the greater extension of the disease, the cure is more tedious. "When a bunion is forming it may be stopped by poulticing 'and carefully opening it with a lancet. 5858. To Cure a Corn on the Sole of the Foot. A corn on the sole of the foot is usually difficult to cure, as the weight of tho body causes a constant pressure on it. Tho application of an ordinary corn-plaster, with a hole in the centre, will relieve the pressure from the corn, but it causes an inequality under the foot, which is not only uncomforta- ble, but likely to produce other corns. The following method never fails : Out a piece of stout cardboard (or thin binders' board) to fit MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 507 inside the sole of the boot. This should be large enough in every way to prevent it shift- ing under the foot in walking. Xcxt cut a round hole in this inner sole, exactly where the corn rests, the hole being rather larger than the corn. This arrangement relieves the corn from pressure and allows of its rapid cure, at the same time affording instant relief and freedom in walking. 5859. To Cure a Disagreeable Breath. This most disagreeable Infliction may be alle- viated or cured by one or other of tho follow- ing remedies, provided that tho tselh do not require a dentist's assistance. Chlorine wa- ter, as supplied by a good chemist, a table- spoonfnl to half a tumbler of water, to be used as a wash and gargle for the mouth ; no harm will be done if a few drops are accident- ally swallowed in so doing. Charcoal in tea- spoonful doses of tho powder, or as charcoal biscuits, or the use of prepared chalk as a tooth-powder. A frequent causo of foul breath is a torpidity of some of the excre- tory organs, such as the skin, kidneys, bow- els, liver, lungs. "When these cease perform- ing their functions one of the others will be called upon to perform an extra office. In this way, when the bowels or skin become affected, the lungs, being an excretory organ, will be called upon to throw off an additional waste from the system. If so, tho breath becomes tainted. Should the foul breath be depending upon tho stomach, it must be cor- rected by some skillful physician. 5860. Remedy for Bad Breath. Take of dry hypochlorite of lime, o drachms ; dis- tilled water, 2 ounces troy. Triturate the hypochlorite of lime in a glass pestle and mortar; when the hypochlorito has been thor- oughly pulverized add a portion of the distill- ed water ; allow the mixture to rest until the liquid has become transparent ; then decant ; add a second portion of water, triturate and allow to rest, again decant ; this process is repeated a third time. Tho three liquids which have been decanted are then mixed, and 2 troy ounces of 85 per cent, alcohol, and 4 drops oil of roses or some other essential oil are added. Tho solution thus prepared may be employed to remove the fetid odor which is given off by the gums an odor often due to the diseased condition of tho tisanes. To employ it, tea-spoonful is poured into a tum- blerful of water, and the gums are washed with the mixture, employing for tho purpose a sponge-brush. The same preparation may be employed to remove the odor of tobacco, rinsing the mouth several times with water to which has been added a tea-spoonful of the liquid. Inasmuch as the odor of tho essential oil is gradually diminished in time, said dimi- nution taking place at the expense of the chlorine of tho hypochlorite, it is suggested that this inconvenience may be obviated by preparing the solution with water and the hypochlorito of lime, and keeping it in one bottle, while the aromatic alcoholic solution (prepared of 2 ounces of 85 per cent, alcohol and 4 drops of essential oil) is preserved in another, both being well stoppered. "When it is desired to use the liquids, a half tea-spoon- ful of each of the solutions is poured into a glass of water, which is then employed as described above. 5861. Remedy for Bad Breath. Take 5 to 10 drops hydrochloric acid in half a tum- bler of spring water, a little lemon juice, and loaf sugar rubbed on lemon peel to flavor it to suit the palate. Let this mixture be taken 3 times a day for a month or six weeks, and, if useful, then continued occasionally. It is pleasant refrigerant and tonic draught. 5862. Remedy for Bad Breath. Bad or foul breath will be removed by taking a tea- spoonful of the following mixture after each meal : 1 ounce liquor of potassa, 1 ounce chloride of soda, li ounces phosphate of soda, and 3 ounces water. 5863. Bad Breath from Constipation. "When, the breath is affected by constipation of the bowels, the following mixture will -be useful: Take 4 drachms Epsom salts, 8 drachms tincture of columba, 6 ounces in- fusion of roses; well shake the phial each time you take the draught, which should be every other morning for a month or six weeks, a wine-glassful each time. 5864. To Remove the Smell of Onions from the Breath. Parsley eaten with vinegar will remove the unpleasant effects of eating onions. 5865. To Correct the Odor of Decay- ed Teeth. To correct the odor of decayed teeth, 2 drops of a concentrated solution of permanganate of potash may be used in a glass of water as a wash, or a few drops of a weak solution may be introduced m the cavity of the tooth on a small piece of cot- ton. (See No. 1701.) 5866. To Preserve the Teeth and Gums. The teeth should be washed night and morning, a moderately small and soft brush being used ; after the morning ablution pour on a second tooth-brush, slightly damped, a little of the following lotion : car- bolic acid, 20 drops; spirit of wine, 2 drachms; distilled water, 6 ounces. After using this lotion for a short time the gums become firmer and less tender, and impurity of the breath (which is most commonly caused by bad teeth) will be removed. It is a great mistake to use hard tooth-brushes, or to brush the teeth until the gums bleed. (See Nos. 1288, e examined consists of 12 equal parts, called )ennyweight,s ; so that if an ingot weighs an >unce, each of the parts will be iV of an ounce. Hence, if the mass of silver be pure, t is called silver of 12 pennyweights; if it ontain -jV of its weight of alloy, it is called silver of 11 pennyweights; if -& of its weight be alloy, it is called silver of 10 penny- weights; and so on in proportion for other qualities. It must be observed here, that ;he assayers give the name pennyweight to a weight equal to 24 real grains, which must not be confounded with their ideal weights. The assayer's grains are called fine grains. An ingot of fine silver, or silver of 12 penny- weights, contains, then, 288 fine grains; if ,his ingot contain -y^s of alloy, it is said o be silver of 11 pennyweights and 23 grains; f it contain ^ir f &Uoy, it is said to be [1 pennyweights, 20 grains, Feet. Inches. Feet Inches. Feet. Inches. 2= 3456 35= 60480 68=117504 3 5184 36 62208 69 119232 4 6912 37 63936 70 120960 5 8640 38 65664 71 122688 6 10368 39 67392 72 124416 7 12096 40 69120 73 126144 8 13824 41 70848 74 127872 9 15552 42 72576 75 129600 10 17280 43 74304 76 131328 11 19008 44 76032 77 133056 12 20736 45 77760 78 134784 13 22464 46 79488 79 136512 14 24192 47 81216 80 138240 15 25920 48 82944 81 139968 16 27648 49 84672 82 141696 17 29376 50 86400 83 143424 18 31104 51 88128 84 145152 19 32832 52 89956 85 146880 20 34560 53 91584 86 148608 21 36288 54 93312 87 150336 22 3&-16 55 95040 88 152064 23 39744 56 96768 89 153792 24 41472 57 98496 90 155520 25 43200 58 100224 91 157248 26 44928 59 101952 92 158976 27 46656 60 103680 93 160704 28 48384 61 105408 94 162432 29 50112 62 107136 95 164160 30 51840 63 108864 96 165888 31 53568 64 110592 97 167616 32 55296 65 112320 98 169344 33 57024 66 114048 99 171072 34 58752 67 115776 100 172800 6000. Measurement of Stone and Brick-Work. 1 Perch, Maso Wk feet long, 16 inches wide. 12 " high, is' or Quarrymen's Measure. _ ( 22 cubic feet. To be \ measured in wall. 1(5 i feet long, 18 inches wide, 12 " _ high, _ ( 24.75 cubic feet. To \ be measured in pile. 1 cubic yard = 3 feet x 3 feet X 3 feet = 27 cubic feet. The cubic yard has become the standard for all contract work of late years. Stone walls less than 16 inches thick count as if 16 inches thick to mason ; over 16 inches thick, each inch additional is measured. Number of Bricks required in Walls for each Square Foot of Face of Wall. Thickness of Wall. 24 inches 46 28 " 52* 12 " 22i 32 " 60 16 " 30 33 " 67J 20 " 37i 42 " 75 Cubic yard = 600 bricks in wall. Perch (22 cubic feet) = 500 bricks in wall. To pave 1 sq. yard on flat requires 41 bricks. 1 " edge " 68 " Thickness of Wall. 4 inches... 520 TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 6001. To Find the Cubical Contents the reason that many sticks of timber taper of a Cylinder. Find the area of the circular cud, as directed in No. 5987, and then multi- suddenly, and others are unequal in diameter when the average is taken. ply the area by the length of the cylinder ; the product will be the cubical content. The same denomination of measurement must be Diameter Inches. Contents. 1 foot long. Diameter Inches. Contents. 1 foot long. adhered to throughout the calculation, as, if 4. .0872 27.5 4.12 the diameter or area is in inches, the length 5. .137 28. 4.28 must be in inches. Thus : to find the cubical 6. .196 28.5 4.43 content of a cylinder 8 inches in diameter 7. .267 29 4.59 and 3 feet long ; we find in No. 5987 that the 7.5 .31 29.5 4.75 area of a circle 8 inches in diameter is 50.265 8. .35 30. 4.91 square inches ; multiply this by 36 inches (3 Feet reduced to inches, the same denomination 8.5 9. .39 .44 30.5 31. 5.07 5.24 as the given diameter), and the product is 9.5 .49 31.5 5.41 1809.54 cubic inches, or 1 foot, 81.54 cubic 10. .55 32. 5.58 inches. 10.5 .60 32.5 5.76 6002. Table of Spherical Contents, 11. .66 33. 5.94 &c. This table shows the relative proper- 11.5 .72 33.5 6.12 tions between the diameter, surface, and 12. .79 34. 6.31 capacity (or cubical contents) of spheres. 12.5 .85 34.5 6.49 Diameters. Surfaces. Capacities. 13. .92 35. 6.68 13.5 .99 35.5 6.87 1 3.141 .523 14. 1.07 36. 7.VT 2 12i567 4.188 14.5 1.15 36.5 7.27 3 28.274 14.137 15. 1.23 37. 7.47 4 50.265 33.51 15.5 1.31 37.5 7.67 5 78.540 65.45 16. 1.40 38. 7.88 10 314.159 523.6 16.5 1.48 38.5 ' 8.09 15 706.9 1767.1 17. 1.58 39. 8.30 20 1256.6 4189. 17.5 1.67 39.5 8.51 25 1963.5 8181. 18. 1.77 40. 8.73 30 2827. 14137. 18.5 1.87 40.5 8.95 40 5026. 33510. 19. 1.97 41. 9.17 6003. To Find the Cubical Contents of Spars or Other Round Timber. If the spar or timber were the same thickness through its entire length, the diameter of all parts would bo the same, and one measure- ment would suffice to obtain the correct diameter; its cubical contents could then be found in the same way as for a cylinder ; but this is hardly ever the case, as the thickness or diameter is different in every part. If the spar tapers regularly from one end to the other, measure the diameter at each end, add the two measurements together, and divide their sum by 2; this will give the average diameter. A piece of timber of irregular thickness must be measured in portions, 19.5 20. 20.5 21. 21.5 22. 22.5 23. 23.5 24. 24.5 25. 25.5 26. 2G.5 27. 2.07 2.18 2.29 2.40 2.52 2.G4 2.76 2.89 3.11 3.14 3.27 3.41 3.55 3.69 3.83 3.98 42. 43. 44. 45. 46. 47. 48. 49. 50. 51. 52. 53. 54. 55. 56. 57. 9..61 10.08 10.555 11.044 11.541 12.049 12.566 13.095 13.635 14.186 14.747 15.320 15.904 16.499 17.104 17.720 each portion extending as far as the tapering is regular, and the contents of the different 6004. Capacity of Cubical Boxes. A box 1 foot and 1 inch each way, i. e., length, portions added together to get the contents breadth, and depth, will contain 1 standard of the whole. Having obtained the correct bushel. diameter in inches, look for it in the next Feet. Inches. Bushels. table, and opposite it, in the next column to 1 1 = 1 the right, will be the contents in feet of 1 1 4i = 2 foot of timber in length ; multiply this by the 1 6f = 3 length of the timber in feet, and the result 1 8i = 4 will be the contents of the whole. 1 10^ = 5 Thus, to find the contents of a IG-foot log 1 Hi ; an 6 whose average diameter is found to be 13| 2 4=7 (that is, 13.5) inches, we find the figures on 22 = 8 the next right hand column in the table are 23 = 9 .99 ; this means that a log 1 foot long and 13 2 4 = 10 inches in diameter contains .99 or ^A of a 6005. Capacity of Boxes of Different cubic foot. Multiply this .99 by 16, the Dimensions. A box 4 feet 7 inches long, length of the log in feet, and we get 15.84, or and 2 feet 4 inches in width, and 2 feet 4 about 15 cubic feet, which is the contents oi inches in depth, will contain 20 bushels. The the whole log. dimensions of a cylinder containing 1 United About 10 per cent, should be deducted States standard bushel are 185 inches inside from the results given in the table when diameter, and 8 inches deep. A box 24 inches toll is charged on rafts of spars or logs, for by 16 inches square, and 28 inches deep, will TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 521 contain a barrel, 5 bushels. A box 24 inches by 16 inches square, and 14 inches deep, will contain a half barrel. A box 24 inches by 11.2 inches square, and 8 inches deep, will contain 1 bushel. A box 12 inches by 11.2 inches square, and 8 inches deep, will contain bushel. A box 8 inches by 8.4 inches square, and 8 inches deep, will contain 1 peck. A box 8 inches by 8 inches square, and 4.2 inches deep, will contain 1 gallon. A box 7 inches by 8 inches square, and 4.8 inches Table Shoicing the Number of Feet deep, will contain 1 gallon. A box 4 inches by 4 inches square, and 4.2 inches deep, will contain 1 quart. 6006. To Find the Amount of Lum- ber any Log will Make. Find the length of the log in the left-hand column of the next Table ; then on the top of the page find tho diameter, and under the same will bo found the quantity of lumber the log will make ; cal- culated for any length from 10 to 25 feet, and for any diameter from 12 to 44 inches. of Inch-Board in a Log of Timber. fl Diameter in Inches. n r * ss 12 13 14 15 16 17 13 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 ~~w 49 61 72 89 99 116 133 150 175 190 209 235 252 287 313 342 3G3 11 54 67 79 93 109 127 147 165 192 209 230 259 278 315 344 377 400 12 59 73 83 107 119 139 160 180 210 228 251 283 303 344 375 411 436 13 64 79 93 116 129 150 173 195 227 247 272 306 328 373 408 445 473 14 69 85 100 125 139 1(52 187 210 245 266 292 330 353 401 439 479 509 15 74 91 107 134 149 173 200 225 2G2 285 313 353 379 430 469 514 545 1C 79 97 114 142 159 185 213 240 280 304 334 377 404 459 500 548 582 17 84 103 122 151 168 193 227 255 297 323 355 400 429 487 531 582 618 18 89 109 129 160 178 203 240 270 315 342 376 424 454 516 562 616 654 19 93 116 136 169 183 219 253 285 332 361 397 447 480 545 594 650 692 20 98 122 143 178 193 232 267 300 350 380 418 470 505 573 625 684 728 21 103 128 150 187 208 243 280 315 368 399 439 495 530 603 656 719 764 22 108 134 157 196 218 255 293 330 385 418 4GO 518 555 631 688 753 800 23 113 140 164 205 228 266 307 345 403 437 480 542 571 659 719 787 837 24 118 146 172 214 238 278 320 3GO 420 456 501 566 603 683 750 821 873 25 123 152 179 223 248 289 333 375 438 475 ",22 589 631 717 781 856 910 fl Diameter in Inches. 0^ 3 a 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 10 381 411 444 4GO 490 500 547 577 644 661 700 752 795 840 872 925 11 419 451 488 506 539 550 602 634 708 734 770 828 874 924 959 1017 12 457 493 532 552 588 600 657 692 772 801 840 903 954 L007 1046 1110 13 495 534 576 598 637 650 712 750 836 868 910 978 1033 1091 1135 1203 14 533 575 622 644 686 700 766 807 901 934 980 1053 1113 L175 1222 1295 15 571 616 66G 690 735 750 821 865 965 1001 1050 1129 1192 L259 1309 1388 10 609 657 710 736 784 800 876 923 1029 1068 1120 1204 1272 L343 1396 1480 17 647 698 755 782 833 850 931 980 1094 1134 1190 1279 1351 L427 1484 1573 18 685 739 799 828 882 900 985 1038 1158 1201 1260 1354 1431 ' L511 1571 1665 19 723 780 843 874 931 950 1040 1096 1222 1268 1330 1430 1510 1595 1658 1758 20 761 821 888 920 980 1000 1095 1152 1287 1335 1400 1505 1590 1 L679 1745 1850 21 800 863 932 966 1029 1050 1150 1210 1351 1401 1470 1580 1669 ] L763 1833 1943 22 838 904 976 1012 1078 1100 1204 1268 1415 1468 1540 1655 1749 ] L847 1920 2035 23 876 945 1021 1058 1127 1150 1259 1322 1480 1535 1610 1730 1828 ] L931 2007 2128 24 914 986 1065 1104 1176 1200 1314 1380 1544 1601 1680 1806 1908 i 2015 2094 2220 25 952 1027 1109 1150 1225 1250 1369 1438 1608 1668 1750 1881 1987 '< !099 2182 2313 6007. Measure of Time. Lunar Month. Weeks. Days. Hnnra. Minutes. Seconds 1 = 4 = 23 = 672 = 40,320 = 2419,200 1 = 7 = 168 = 10,080 = 604,800 1 = 24 = 1,440 = 86,400 1 = 60 = 3,600 1 = 60 The year of 365 days is divided into 12 calendar months, 7 of which have 31 days; 4 have 30 days; and 1, February, 28 clays. The solar year consists of 365 days, 5 hours, 48 minutes, and 49 seconds; this excess over 365 days, nearly 6 hours, or J day, is allowed to accumulate through each 4 years, and pro- vided for every fourth, or leap year, by adding 1 day to February ; but as this is adding a trifle too much, every 400 years one leap year is omitted, and this occurs when the year is divisible by 400 without remainder. In the year 1582, the fact was observed by Pope Gregory XIII that, in consequence of this discrepancy not having been taken into account since the commencement of tho Ju- lian system (see No. 6064), the true time exceeded the time as then reckoned by 10 days ; and therefore ordered the llth of March to be accounted the 21st. The Pope's edict was generally observed by the nations subject to his authority, but the Protestant countries continued the use of the Julian reckoning. This gave rise to the two modes of computation still found in Europe, called the old style and new style. Tho latter was adopted in. England in 1752, by making the 1st of September the 12th. Whenever the date of the year is divisible by 4 without remainder, February has 29 days, and that year is called Bissextile. 52; TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 6008. Table Showing 1 the Number of Days from any Date in One Month to the Same Date in any Other Month. From To 4 i 1 I < a g 1-3 f 1 j! g fc 1 January. 365 31 59 90 120 151 181 212 243 273 304;334 Feby March. . . 334365 306337 2H 365 59 31 H9 61 120;150 181 212 92122 153'l84 242 273 303 214! 245 275 April 275 306 334 365 80 61 91 122153 183 214 244 May J245 ;276 304 335 365 31 61 92 123 153il84214 June 214 245273304334365 30 61 92 122 153 183 July 184 215 243 274;304 335 365 31 62 92 123153 August. 153 184!212 243 2731304 334 365 n 61 92122 Sept 122 153 181 212 242 273 303 334 365 30 61 91 October. 92 123 151 182;212|243 273 304 335 365 31 61 Nov Dec 61 31 92120.151il81 62| 90.1211151 212242273304334 182 212 243 274 304 365 335 30 30.- The geographical or nautical mile, accord- ing to Brande, is equivalent to 1.153 statute miles ; this would give 2029.3 yards to the nautical mile, 69.18 statute miles to the de- gree, and about 24.905 miles for the earth's equatorial circumference. According to one of, the very best authorities, Chambers' Ency- | clopeedia, the nautical mile contains 2029 i yards; on this basis, a degree would measure | about 69.17 statute miles, and the earth's cir- cumference about 24.901 statute miles. A great circle of the earth is an imaginary line or belt so drawn round the earth as to divide it into two equal parts or hemispheres ; the equator and the ecliptic are great circles. In navigation, sailors measure depth of sound- ings and short distances by the fathom of 6 ., 7 -w-r j f. ,-t ~ -, u*f ooici DUULV uiominjc^ uy tiic imiiurtt' Example: How many days from the 2d of fe | t and the caUe . lengtll O f y 120 fathoms. ahvn n v\r rn T nn *)(\ t\\ d n mi or T I ,t\r\\r f*vm ' ** February to the 2d of August? Look for February at the left hand, and August at the top, in the angle is 181. In leap year, add one day if February be included. 6009. Table Showing Difference Time at 12 o'Clock (Noon) at New York. Boston 12.12 p. M. Quebec 12.12 Portland 12.15 London 4.55 Paris 5.05 Eome 5.45 Constantinople. 6.41 Vienna 6.00 St. Petersburg.. 6.57 Pekin, night. . .12.40 A. M. Geographical or Nautical Mea- sure. Great Circle. Degrees. Leagues. Geo. Miles. 1 = 360 = 7200 = 21600 1 = 20 = 60 1 = 3 601 1. Nautical Time. The hour of the New York 12.00 N Buffalo 11.40 A Cincinnati 11.18 Chicago 11.07 St. Louis 10.55 San Francisco. . 8.45 New Orleans. . .10.56 Washington 11.48 Charleston 11.36 Havana 11.25 6010. nf tween midnight and noon, or noon and mid- Uw .If. night, are divided into 3 portions of 8 bells tt M. each, the duration of time between bells being half an hour. During the course of each 12 hours, the same number of strokes of the bell will necessarily be used to denote three differ- ent hours or periods of time. Bell. Clock-Time. Clock-Time. Clock-Time. 1 denotes 12.30 4.30 8.30 M. 2 1. 5. 9. ja- 3 1.30 5.30 9.30 4 2. 6. 10. 5 2.30 6.30 10.30 6 3. 7. 11.. 7 3.30 7.30 11.30 8 4. 8. 12. 6012. Capacity of Cisterns, &c. Diameter in Feet and Inches. Depth in Feet and Inches. Number of Wine Gallons. Number of Barrels. No. of Hhds. No. of Gallons in 10 Inches Depth. 2 ft. 2 ft. 45 1& M 19 2 ft. 6 in. 2 ft. 6 in. 90 2f 1ft 30 3 ft. 3 ft. 158 5 2i 44 3 ft. 6 in. 3 ft. 6 in. 252 8 4 60 4 ft. 4 ft. 374 lltt 5f 78 4 ft. 6 in. 4 ft. 6 in. 524 16 r m 97 5 ft. 5 ft. 732 nH 122 5 ft. 6 in. 5 ft. 6 in. 976 31 15 h 148 6 ft. 6 ft. 1267 40 | 20 i 176 6 ft. 6 in. 6 ft. 6 in. 1614 51 85f* 207 7 ft. 7 ft. 2016 64 32 240 8 ft. 8 ft. 3004 952-! 47 4 a 313 8 ft. 6 in. 8 ft. 6 in. 3600 114H 353 9 ft. 9 ft. 4276 396 9 ft. 6 in. 9 ft. 6 in. 5027 159$J f .,__ 441 10 ft. 10 ft. 5868 186^1 93 j 489 11 ft. 11 ft. 7814 248A 124^ 592 12 ft. 12 ft. 10152 328*1 161 & 705 13 ft. 13 ft. 12901 409 f S04ff 827 14 ft. 14 ft. 16111 5Hg| 255^ 959 15 ft. 15 ft. 19818 629A 314*4 1101 20 ft. 20 ft. 46992 149lfi 1958 25 ft. 25 ft. 91770 2913 i 1456 f 3059 Example : Suppose you desire to ascertain the capacity of a cistern 4 feet 6 inches in diameter and 4 feet 6 inches in depth. Find the diameter in the left hand column, and directly opposite you will see that the cis- tern will hold 524 gallons of 231 cubic inches each, equal to 16JS barrels, or 8| hogsheads. The right hand column shows the number of gallons contained in 10 inches of depth. By this standard you may easily increase or diminish the capacity at pleasure. Thus, if you wish the above cistern to hold 97 gallons more, make it 10 inches deeper ; or 194 gal- lons more, 20 inches deeper. TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 523 Latin ] t HECTO KILO MYRIA refix DECI CKNTI MTT.T.T 100 " 1000 " 10000 " TJT of a unit TW i u 6013. Log Lines. 1 knot = 51.1625 feet, or 51 feet If -j- inches. 1 fathom = 5.11625 feet, or 5 feet 1 + inches, estima- ting a mile at 6139J feet, and using a 30" glass. If a 28" glass is used, and eight divi- sions, then 1 knot = 47 feet 9 -f- inches. 1 fathom = 5 feet llf inches. The line should be about 150 fathoms long, having 10 fathoms between the chip and first knot for stray line. Miles X .87 = knots. Knots X 1.15 = miles. Feet per minute X .01 = knots per hour. 1 knot = 6082.66 feet; 1 statute mile = 5280 feet. 6014. The Decimal System of "Weights and Measures. A permissive law has already been passed by the American aad British governments, adopting the deci- mal system as applied to weights and mea- sures. It is substantially the same as the French decimal system, and founded on units of the same value. The multiples and sub- divisions of the different units are the same ; Greek prefixes being used to denote the multiples, and Latin prefixes the fractional parts of the units. The Greek prefix DEKA means 10 units The The fundamental unit of all the decimal weights and measures is the METRE; the standard length of which is the iooo l oooo- of a quadrant of the earth's meridian, equivalent to 39.371 inches. The unit of dry and liquid measures of capacity is the LITRE, which is the TfiW of a cubic metre, and contains 61.028 cubic inches. These figures are as exact as a calculation involving twelve places of decimals will bring it. The government standard, adopted as sufficiently correct for all practical purposes, is 61.022 cubic inches ; this is based on a metre of 39.3685 inches, which would make the gram 15.432 grains. The GRAM or unit of weight is the weight of a cubic centimetre ( T foj- of a metre) of water at 39.83 Fahr., and is equivalent to 15.434 grains. For post-office purposes, the k ounce avoirdupois is declared equivalent to 15 grams. The ARE, or unit of surface measurement, is the i^tf of a square metre, or 119.6 square yards. This system of weights and measures has not as yet come into general use, either in America or England. Its advantages are indisputably great for facilitating calculation as well as establishing uniform international standards ; but its adoption necessarily meets with much opposition, as it overthrows not only all the old, arbitrary units of measure- ment, but their multiples and subdivisions also. It seems so natural to halve and quar- ter, and count by the dozen, that even in our decimal currency we cannot dispense with the half and quarter dollar and eagle ; in fact, the advantage of our decimal currency can- not be appreciated to its full extent until the custom of counting by the dozen is entirely superseded by the decade. The dozen, 12, is divisible by 2, 3, 4, and 6 ; the decade, 10, by 2 and 5 only ; and, although this is a matter of little moment as far as regards calculation, it makes a great difference for practical subdi- vision. Old rooted customs are difficult to eradicate, but there is no doubt that the dozen, half, and quarter, those stumbling- blocks in the way of the decimal system, will eventually disappear as entirely as the now totally obsolete eighth and sixteenth of a dollar, the Mexican shilling and sixpence. 6015. Official Standard Metre. The following information was lately given by Mr. Hilgard, of the United States Coast Sur- vey, to the Journal of the Franklin Institute : "There are, in the custody of the Treasury De- partment, at the Office of "Weights and Mea- sures, the following authentic copies of the standard metre and kilogramme of France, viz. : Metre of platinum, compared and certi- fied by Arago ; metre of steel, compared and certified by Silbermann; kilogramme of pla- tinum, compared and certified by Arago; kilogramme of brass (gilt), compared and cer- tified by Silbermann. The length of the metre is 39.3685 inches of the United States standard scale, and the kilogramme is 15432.2 grains, or 2 pounds, 3 ounces, 119.7 grains avoirdupois. There is also another metre, the property of the American Philosophical Society, which is one of the twelve original metres made by the French Government, and was brought to this country by Mr. Hassler, the originator of the United States Coast Survey. A comparison between this bar and the standard of France at the Conservatory of Arts and Trades was made by Dr. F. A. P. Barnard, with the result that, at the tempera- ture of melting ice, there is no appreciable difference, by the most delicate means of comparison, between the platinum standard of the Conservatory and this iron metre." The above standard metre of 39.3685 inches would make the equatorial circumference of the earth measure 24.854 statute miles. Bes- sel's calculations, given in Chambers' Ency- clopaedia, give the equatorial circumference at 24.901 j* miles. If this measurement be correct, the standard metre should be 39.371 inches. This difference, however, is so trifling that it would not be appreciable for all prac- tical purposes. 6016. Decimal Measures of Length. Myriametre = 10,000 metres. Kilometre = 1,000 metres. Hectometre = 100 metres. Dekametre = 10 metres. Metre = 1 metre. Decimetre ^ metre. Centimetre T ^ metre. Millimetre y^nr metre. 6017. Value of Metric Measures of Length in Long Measure. Miles. Yds. Ft. Inches. Myriametre =6 376 1 2 Kilometre = 1093 1 11 Hectometre = 109 1 1.1 Dekametre = 10 2 9.71 Metre = 10 3.371 Decimetre = 3.937 Centimetre = .394 For general purposes, or small calculations, the following equivalents will be found suffi- ciently accurate : 1 millimetre is equal to ^V inch ; 1 centimetre is equal to f- inch ; 1 deci- metre is equal to 3 -f s inches; 1 metre is equal to 39 inches ; &I& metre is equal to 36 inches or 1 yard. 524 TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 6018. Value of Metres in Inches. Millimetre. Metre. Inches. 1 = .001 = .03937 2 = .002 = .07874 3 = .003 = .11811 4 = .004 = .15748 5 = .005 = .19685 6 = .006 = .23622 7 = .007 = .27560 8 = .008 = .31497 9 = .009 = .35434 Centimetre. 1 = .01 = .3937 2 = .02 = .7874 3 = .03 = 1.1811 4 = .64 = 1.5748 5 = .05 = 1.9685 6 = .06 = 2.3622 7 = .07 = 2.7559 8 = .08 = 3.1497 9 = .09 = 3.5434 Decimetre. 1 = .1 = 3.9371 2 = .2 = 7.8742 3 = .3 = 11.8113 4 = .4 = 15.7484 5 = .5 = 19.6855 6 = .6 = 23.6226 7 = .7 = 27.5597 8 = .8 = 31.4968 9 = .9 = 35.4339 6019. Value of Metres in Feet. Decimetres. Feet. Metres. Feet. 1 sm .328 100 2 = .656 3 sa .984 4 s- 1.312 300 5 = 1.640 _SB. 6 1.968 7 2.297 _ 8 2.625 9 = 2.953 .52. Hetrei L 250 1 3.281 2 6.562 3 9.843 Ji. 4 13.124 5 16.405 - 6 7 = 19.686 22.967 -22. 200 8 26.248 9 = 29.529 ~; Dekan letre. Matr -t f\ 8. OO Q1 SO '- 1 2 = 10 = 20 ,32. ol = 65.62 150 3 = 30 = 98.43 ~ : 4 = 40 = 131.24 411 '- 5 = 50 = 164.05 - 6 = 60 = 196.86 '- 7 = 70 = 229.67 '-_ 8 = 80 = 262.48 _so.^ 100 9 = 90 = 295.29 : Hecto metre - 1 = 100 = 328.1 ~~ : 2 = 200 = 656.2 tO ; 3 == 300 = 984.3 : 4 = 400 = 1312.4 _ ; BO 5 = 500 = 1640.5 : 6 = 600 = 1968.6 3 - 7 = 700 = 2296.7 8 = 800 = 2624.8 9 = 900 = 2952.9 (i decimetres, the relative scale of feet will onsist of the same figures, with the decimal )oint removed one place to the left, to divide )y 10, the millimetre being -^ decimetre. 3020. Decimal Measures of Capacity. Names. Number of Litres. Cubic Measure. Kilolitre, or stere Hectolitre 1,000 100 10 1 ion i rtnn 1 cubic metre i*j) cubic metre 10 cu. decimetres 1 cub. " A, cub. " 10 cu. centimetre 1 cu. centimetre Dekalitre Litre Decilitre Centilitre Millilitre The foregoing scale may be used for any other portion of the metrical system ; foi instance, if millimetres be used instead o The following are approximate values, cor- rect enough for rough calculations. One millilitre is equal to 15i grain measures of water ; one centilitre is equal to 154 grain measures, or 3 fluid drachms ; one decilitre is iqual to 1,540 grain measures, or 3 fluid ounces; one litre is equal to 15,406 grain measures, or 2^ pints ; one cubic centimetre of water at its maximum density weighs 154 grains, and is $ fluid drachm. 6021. Value of Metric Measures of Capacity in U. S. Dry Measure. Bush. Peck. Quart. Pint. Kilolitre = 28 1 4| Hectolitre = 2 3 2 1.6 Dekalitre = 1 1.6 Litre = 1.816 Decilitre = .181 Centilitre = .018 6022. Value of Metric Measures of Capacity in U. S. Liquid Measure. Gals. Quarts. Pints. Giils. Kilolitre = 264 1 1.6 Hectolitre = 26 1 1 1.36 Dekalitre = 221 0.136 Litre = 1 0.413 Decilitre = .841 Centilitre = . .084 6023. Equivalent of Metric Measures of Capacity in U. S. Apothecaries Measure. Oal. Hectolitre = 26 Dekalitre = 2 Litre = Decilitre = , Centilitre = Pint. 3 5 2 Fluid Fluid )unce. Drachm. Minims. 5 5 20 2 1 20 1 6 32 333 2 42 6024. Value of Metric Measures of Capacity in Imperial Dry Measure. Bush. Pecks. Gals. Pints. Kilolitre = 27 2 0.800 Hectolitre =230 0.080 Dekalitre = 2 1.608 Litre = 1.760 Decilitre = .176 6025. Value of Metric Measures of Capacity in Imperial Liquid Measure. Hhds. Gals. Qts. Pts. Gills. Kilolitre = 3 31 3.5-00 Hectolitre = 22 0.320 Dekalitre = 201 2.432 Litre = 1 3.040 Decilitre = -704 6026. Decimal Measures of Surface. A Hectare.. 10, 000 square metres Are 100 square metres Centare... 1 square metre Kqutvalcntstn Square Mcueute. Acres, sq. yds. Pq. ft metres 2 2279 5.76 119 5.4 1 1.76 TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 525 6027. Decimal "Weights. Names Number of Grama. Wi-Uht <>l What quantity of Water at maximum density. Millier, or Touneau Quintal. . . . 1,000,000 100,000 10,000 1,000 100 10 1 h iAo 1 (100 1 cub. metre 1 hectolitre 10 litres 1 litre 1 decilitre 10 cu. cent're 1 cu. cent're ^ cu. cent're 10 cu. milm's 1 cu. milm'e M yriagram Kilogram or kilo.. Hectogram . . Dek agram Gram ............ Decigram Centigram Milligram 6028. Equivalent of Metric Weights in Avoirdupois Weight. Lbs. Oz. Dr. Miilier = 2204 9 1.6 Quintal = 220 7 4.96 Myriagram = 22 11.69 Kilogram = 2 4.37 Hectogram = 3 8.44 Dekagram = 5.64 Gram = .56 6029. Equivalent of Metric Weights in Troy Weight. Lbs. Oz. Dwts. Grains. Millier = 2677 1 19 20. Quintal = 267 8 11 23.6 Myriagram = 26 9 5 4.77 Kilogram = 282 12.48 Hectogram = 34 6.05 Dekagram = 6 10.21 Gram = 15.43 Decigram = 1.54 Centigram = .15 6030. Equivalent of Metric Weights in U. S. Apothecaries Weight. Millier Quintal Myri agram Kilogram Hectogram Dekagram Gram Decigram Lbs. Oz. Dr. Scr. Grs. 2677 1 7 2 16. 267 8 4 2 7.6 26 9 2 4.77 2810 0.48 312 2.05 2 1 14.21 15.43 1.54 For general purposes the following values are sufficiently correct: 1 milligram is equal to - 9 V grain ; 1 centigram is equal to grain; 1 decigram is equal to 1 grains; 1 gram is equal to 15 grains; 1 dekagram is equal to 154 grains ; 1 hectogram is equal to 1,543 grains ; 1 kilogram is equal to 15,432 grains. 6031. English Weights and Mea- sures. Avoirdupois and Troy weight are exactly the same as used in the United States, and the tables will be found in N"os. 5935, &c. In the new British Pharmacopoeia, the weights are expressed in pounds, ounces, and grains, avoirdupois ; thus superseding the Apothe- caries weight as now in use in the United States. The old British avoirdupois drachm d 1 ^ ounce or 27.344 grains) is now obsolete, except in weighing silk. The new drachm is i ounce. 6032. Imperial Standard Measure. Ol. Quarts. Pints. F. Oz. F. Dr. Minims. 8 = 160 = 1280 = 76.800 2 = 40 = 320 = 19.200 1 = 20 = 160 = 9.600 1 = 8 = 480 1 = 60 The standard unit of this measure is the gallon which is declared by statute to contain 10 pounds avoirdupois (70,000 Troy grains) of distill^fl water at a temperature of 62 Fabr., the barometer being at 30 inches. The weight of a cubic inch of water, under the foregoing conditions, is 252.458 grains ; the capacities of the measures are therefore as follows : Imperial Gallon = 277.274 Cubic Inches. Quart = 69.3185 " " Pint = 34.65925 " Fluid Ounce = 1.73296 " " Drachm = .21662 " Thus it will be seen that there is a slight difference in weight between the English and United States unit of capacity, viz.: The cubic inch of water; the English being weighed at 62 Fahr., and the United States at 39.83. (See No. 5935.) 6033. Imperial Measure Expressed in Litres. 1 Gallon = 4.54339 Litres 1 Quart = 1.13585 " 1 Pint = 5.67925 Decilitres 1 Fluid Ounce = 2.83962 Centilitres 1 " Drachm = 3.54952 Millilitres 1 Minim = .05916 " 6034. Measure of Capacity for all Liquids. Tun. Pipes. Hhds. Bbl. Onions. (Jnartn. pints. Gilln. 1== 2= 4 =8 = 262 = 1008 = 2016 = 8064 1 = 2 = 4 126 = 504 = 1008 = 4032 1 = 2 = 63 = 252 = 504 == 2016 1 = 31 >i = 126 = 252 = 1008 1 = 4 = 8 = 32 1 = 2 = 8 1 = 4 The gallon is the Imperial measure of 277.274 cubic inches ; and the gill contains 5 ounces avoirdupois of water. In addition to the above measures, there is the Tierce of 42 gallons, and the Puncheon of 84 gallons. 6035. Comparative Value of Imperial Measure and U. 8. Liquid Measure. Impeiial. Unlti-d MateH. Gall. Qt. Pints. Gills. 1 Gallon = 1.20032 Gallons, or 1 1 2.41 1 Quart = 1.20032 Quarts, or 10 1.60 1 Pint = 1.20032 Pints, or 1 0.80 1 Gill = 1.20032 Gills, or 1.20 6036. Imperial Liquid Measure Ex- pressed in Litres. 1 Hogshead 2.86234 Hectolitres 1 Barrel = 1.43117 " 1 Gallon = 4.54339 Litres 1 Quart = 1.13585 " 1 Pint = 5.67925 Decilitres 1 Gill = 1.41981 " 6037. Dry or Corn Measure. Capacity In Quarter. Bimhels. pecks. GallAns. pinto. Cubic Inches. 1 = 8 = 32 = 64 = 512 = 17,745.536 1= 4= 8= 64= 2,218.192 1 = 2 = 16 = 554.548 1 = 8 = 277.274 1 = 34.659 The above capacities are for struck measure ; the heaped measures contain nearly J more, the heaped bushel containing 2815s cubic inches. 6038. Relative Value of Imperial Dry % Measure and United States Dry Mea- tlnitpt Square inches " feet .007 .111 = square feet, square yards. " yards .0002067 = acres. Circular inches .00546 = square feet. Cylindrical inches .0004546 an cubic feet. " feet .02909 = cubic yards. Cubic inches V 00058 = cubic feet. " feet it a .03704 6.2321 I cubic yards, imperial gallons. " inches .003607 = it ti Bushels .0476 = cubic yards. H 1.284 =: cubic feet. it 2218.2 cubic inches. Cubic feet .779 = bushels. Cubic inches .00045 z= bushels. Pounds .009 = hundredweights. Pounds .00045 = tons Cylindrical feet 4.895 = imperial gallons. " inches .002832 -tf it ~ a Cubic inches .263 = pounds of cast iron. H .281 = ' wrought do. It .283 = ' steel. tt .3225 = copper. II .3037 = brass. it .26 zinc. it .4103 lead. it .2636 tin. It .4908 = mercury. Cylindrical inches .2065 = cast iron. .2168 = wrought iron. .2223 = steel. .2533 = copper. .2385 = brass. .2042 = zinc. .3223 lead. .207 _r= tin. .3854 = mercury. 6120. Memoranda Connected with "Water. 1 cubic foot of water = 62.4 pounds. 1 cubic inch = .036 pounds. 1 gallon im- perial = 10 pounds; or = 0.16 cubic feet. 1 cubic foot of water = 6.2321 imperial gal- lons; or, approximately = 6J gallons. 1 cwt. of water = 1.8 cubic feet = 11.2 gallons. 1 ton of water = 35.9 cubic feet = 224 gal- lons. Cubic feet of water X .557 = cwt. approximately. Cubic feet of water x .028 = tons approximately. 1 cubic foot of sea water = 64.14 pounds. "Weight of sea water = weight of fresh water X 1.028. 6121. Pressure of the Atmosphere. In engineering, the common pressure of the atmosphere, 14.6 pounds to the square inch, is taken as a standard of that exerted by other elastic fluids. Thus, steam, or air con- densed so as to exert a pressure of 30 pounds to the square inch, is said, in round numbers, to be of 2 atmospheres ; at 45 pounds to the inch, 3 atmospheres, G vity . Diamond from Ormus 20 3.7 " (pink) 19 3.4 (bluish) 19 3.3 " (yellowish) 19 3.3 " (cubic) 18 . 3.2 Ruby 17 4.2 " (pale, from Brazil) 16 3.5 Sapphire 16 3.8 Topaz 15 4.2 " (whitish) 14 3.5 " (Bohemian) 11 2.8 Ruby (spinelle) 13 3.4 Emerald 12 2.8 Garnet 12 4.4 Agate j 12 2.6 Onyx 12 2.6 Sardonyx 12 2.6 Amethyst (occidental) 11 2.7 Crystal 11 2.6 Cornelian 11 2.7 Jasper (green) 11 2.7 " (reddish yellow) 9 2.6 Schoerl 10 3.6 Tourmaline 10 3.0 Quartz 10 2.7 Opal 10 2.6 Chrysolite 10 3.7 Zeolite 8 2.1 Fluor 7 3.5 Calcareous spar 6 2.7 Gypsum 5 2.3 ' Chalk 3 2.7 Glass 2.3 : 3.62 " (plate) 2.5:2.6 " (crystal or flint) 3.0 : 3.616 6137. Weight of Hemp and Wire Hope. HEMP. IBON WIEE. STEEL WIBE . Cir- cumfer- ence. Lbs. Weight per Fathom Cir- cumfer- ence. Lbs. Weight per Fathom. Cir- cumfer- ence. Lbs. Weight per Fathom 2* 2 1 1 li li 1 1 Si i 4 If 2 i If 2i li U 41 i 5 If 3 . 2 3i If 2 } 7 ft 4 u 2| ' . at 4| 6 9 if 5 li 3 ! ei 54 6j ! 10 2f 6 2 3i 2f 6i 24 4 7 12 21 7 si 4i 3 7i 7i 14 3* 8 2| 5 sf 81 8 16 3| 9 Si 5i *! 10 2f 6 8k 18 3f 11 91 6* 34 12 9i 22 3| 13 3i 8 10 26 4 14 4t 15 3f 9 11 30 4| 16 *j 18 3i 10 12 34 4| 20 34 12 TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 535 6138. Miscellaneous Statistics. TIMBER. SpecificGravity Weight in Ibs. per Cubic Foot. Tenacity in Ibs. per Square Inch. Crushing Force in Ibs. per Square Inch. Ash .8 .69 .71 .48 .7 .6 .75 .55 .6 .8 .93 .87 .65 .45 .65 .8 .9 .98 .94 1.8 .8 .74 .90 1.000 1.028 50 43 44 30 44 37 47 34 37 50 58 54 41 28 41 50 56 61 59 112 50 46 56 62.4 64.1 17.200 11.000 15.000 11.000 12.000 13.000 20.000 9.000 16.000 17.000 10.000 12.000 11.000 15.000 8.000 Boiling Point. 173 100 212 213 9.000 9.000 5.500 5.600 6.000 10.000 7.000 5.500 8.000 10.000 6.000 5.800 5.100 12.000 Expansion.* .11 .07 .08 .047 Beech. Birch Cedar. . . Deal, Christiana Elm Hornbeam. . . . Larch Memel Mahogany, Spanish. . Oak, English Oak, Canadian . . . Pine, red . ...... Pine, yellow Teak, Moulmein . Tew MISCELLANEOUS. Asphaltum . . Gutta-percha . .. India-rubber . Ivory FLUIDS. Alcohol Ether Oil "Water, fresh "Water, sea. OASES. Water 1. Comparative Weight (Air being 1.) Weight of Cubic Foot in Grains. Air .0012 .0018 .0005 .00008 .00125 1.000 1.524 .420 .069 1.103 527 800 220 43 627- Carbonic acid Carburetted hydrogen Hydrogen . .. .. Oxygen * Expansion of fluids is calculated between 32 and 212 Fahrenheit. 6139. Weight of Copper and Lead. Weight of a Square Foot of Copper and Lead in pounds, from ^ to i inch in thickness. Thickness. Copper. Lead. & 1.45 1.85 A 2.90 3.70 A 4.35 5.54 5.80 7.39 n 7.26 9.24 ft 8.71 11.08 A 10.16 12.93 11.61 14.77 A 13.07 16.62 A 14.52 18.47 B 15.97 20.31 I 17.41 22.16 it 18.87 24.00 ^ 20.32 25.85 H 21.77 27.70 1 23.22 29.55 6140. Weight of Cast-Iron Plates. Weight of Cast-Iron Plates, 12 inches square. Thickness. Weight. | inch.. 4 Ibs. 13f oz. J " ..9 " lOfr " f " ..14 " 8 " i " ..19 " 5f " Thickness. Weight, f inch. 24 Ibs. 2foz. f " .29 " " f " -33 " 13f " 1 " .38 " lOf " 6141. Weighl Weight of a Square . pounds avoirdupois, number on the wire an inch ; No. 4, ; . Wire Gauge. Avoir. 1 12.5 2 12. ; of Sheet Iron. Toot of Sheet Iron in the thickness being the gauge. No 1 is -fg of Vo. 11, i, . Specific Gravity. Weight of a Cubic Foot In I.bs. Tenacity in Lbs. per Square Inch. Crushing Km,-,; in I.bs per Bq.Inch. Melting point. Ftthr. Expansion between 32" & 212 Con- ducting power. Specific Heat. Aluminum .092 .242 .35 .3 .32 .7 .3 .28 .26 .41 .49 .38 .282 .263 .253 2.56 6.7 9.82 8.4 8.5 8.89 8.95 9. 19.25 8.4 7.7 7.6 7.18 11.35 13.56 10.47 7.8 7.78 7.29 7. 160 418 605 525 531 555 559 562 1203 525 481 475 448 709 847 654 487 485 455 437 1,066 3,250 17,978 49,000 19,072 33,000 61,000 20,400 36,000 60,000 70,000 85,000 19,000 1,824 3.328 41,000 120,000 80,000 5,000 8,000 10,300 11,700 38,000 92,000 7,000 15,000 *1800 810 497 1869 1996 2016 2786 612 39 1873 2500 442 773 .0011 .0014 .002 .0017 .0016 .0012 .0011 .0028 .016 .0019 .0011 .0021 .0029 898 1000 347 180 973 304 363 .0507 .0288 .0949 .0298 .1100 .0293 .0330 .0557 .0514 .0927 Antimony, cast. . Bismuth.. .... Brass, cast " wire. Copper, cast - " sheet " wire Gold Gun-metal Iron, wrought bar " Swedish " wire cast Lead, cast. " sheet Mercury Silver Steel " puddled Tin Zinc.. * Approximate; no well-authenticated experiments on Aluminum. 6144. "Weight of Bound and Square Shafts of Wrought Iron, 1 Foot Long. Size in Inches. Weight in Lbs. Size in Inches. Weight in Lb. Bound. Square. Hound. Square. | .042 .053 4| 59.7 76.0 \ .166 .211 5 66.2 84.3 I .372 .474 5f 72.9 92.9 ft .662 .843 B| 80.1 102 f 1.03 1.32 5f 87.5 111 i 1.49 1.90 6 95.3 121 i 2.03 2.58 6i 103 132 i 2.65 3.37 61 112 142 if 3.35 4.27 6| 121 154 H 4.14 5.27 7 130 165 it 5.00 6.37 7i 139 177 H 5 97 7.58 7f 149 190 if 7.00 8.90 7f 159 203 li 8.11 10.3 8 169 216 i* 9.31 11.8 8* 180 229 2 10.6 13.5 8} 191 244 2i 11.9 15.2 8f 203 258 2i 13.4 17.1 9 214 273 2| 14.9 19.0 227 288 si 16.5 21.1 j4 239 304 18.2 23.2 9f 252 320 24 20.0 25.5 10 265 337 p 21.9 27.9 10^ 292 372 3 23.8 30.3 11 320 408 3 28.0 35.6 il* 350 448 3} 32.4 41.3 12 381 486 5| 37.2 47.4 134 414 527 4 42.4 54.0 13 447 570 4* 47.8 60.9 13| 483 614 s 53.6 68.2 14 519 661 and by 3.36 ; the product "will be the weight in pounds avoirdupois, nearly. Square, Angled, T, Convex, or any figure of Beam Iron. Ascertain the area of the end of each figure of bar, in inches, then multiply the area by the length in feet, and that pro- duct by 10, and divide by three ; the remain- der will be the weight in pounds, nearly. Square Cast Steel. Multiply the area of the end of the bar in inches, by the length in feet, and that product by 3.4; the product will be the weight in pounds, nearly. Bound Cast Steel. Multiply the square of the diameter in inches, by the length in feet, and that product by 2.67; the product will give the weight in pounds avoirdupois, nearly. 6146. Number of Nails per Pound. The following table shows the length of the various sizes of nails and the number of each in a pound : 6145. Weights of Wrought-Iron and Steel. Round Iron. Multiply the square of the diameter in inches, by the length in feet, and by 2.63, and the product will be the weight in pounds avoirdupois, nearly. Square Iron. Multiply the area of the end of the bar in inches, by the length in feet, Size. Length. Nuir/oer. 3-penny, 1 inch long, 557 per pound. 4 H 353 5 H 232 6 2 167 7 2i 141 8 21 101 10 21 98 12 3 54 20 Si 34 Spil es 4 16 1 12 i 5 10 1 "6 7 ' 7 5 The term "penny," designating the size of nails, appears to mean "pound." Ten-penny nails weighing 10 pounds per thousand, four- penny nails 4 pounds per thousand, &c. (Webster.) This is probably the weight the nails were originally made ; according to the foregoing table they have since learned econ- omy in the material. TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 537 6147. Calendar for Ascertaining on what Day of the "Week any Given Day will Fall within the Present Century. YEARS 1801 TO 1900. c e H j | 1 I I 3 1 1 -w & CC i II O J CN CO CO CO 55 s CO CO CO CO 1801 1807 1818 1829 1835 1846 1857 1863 1874 1885 1891 4 I 7 7 3 5 1 3 6 2 4 7 2 1802 1813 1819 1830 1841 1847 1858 1869 1875 1886 1897 3 5 1 3 1803 1814 1825 1831 1842 1853 1859 1870 1881 1887 1898 ( 2 2 5 7 3 5 1 4 6 2 4 1805 1811 1822 1833 1839 1850 1861 1867 1878 1889 1895 5 5 5 1 3 1 4 7 2 5 7 1806 1817 1823 1834 1845 1851 1862 1873 1879 1890 | 6 6 2 4 7 2 5 1 3 6 1 1809 1815 1826 1837 1843 1854 1865 1871 1882 1893 1899 ' r 3 3 6 1 4 6 2 5 7 3 5 1S10 1821 1827 1838 1849 1855 1866 1877 1883 1894 1900 3 4 4 7 2 5 7 3 6 1 4 6 To ascertain any day of the week in any year of the present century, first look in the table of years for the year required, and under the months are figures which refer to the corresponding figures at the head of the columns of days below. For Example : To find what day of the week January 1 will be in the year 1873, look in the table of years for 1873, and in a parallel line under January is figure 3, which directs to column 3, in which it will be seen that January 1 will fall on Wed- nesday. LEAP-YEARS. 1804 1832 1860 1888 ' r 3 4 7 2 5 7 3 6 1 4 6 1808 1836 1864 1892 ( > i 2 5 7 3 5 1 4 6 2 4 1812 1840 1868 1896 I i 6 7 3 5 1 3 6 2 4 7 2 1816 1844 1872 ] I 4 5 1 3 6 1 4 7 2 5 7 1820 1848 1876 ( > 2 3 6 1 4 6 2 5 7 3 5 1824 1852 1880 ^ t 7 1 4 6 2 4 7 3 5 1 3 1828 1856 1884 i ! 5 6 2 4 7 2 5 1 3 6 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 r Mon 1 Tues 2 Wed 3 Thur 4 Fri.. B Tu We Th Fn Sat Su Mn BS d ur 1 2 3 4 5 G 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 fl X F S S IV T "W T F S S 1 'ed... hur .. ri... . 1 . 2 3 Thur 1 Fri 2 Fri 1 Sat 2 Sa Si K Ti W Tl F) Sa t 1 Su Mr Q 1 in n 2 Sat 3 Sun 3 Mon 4 Tues 5 Wed 6 Thur . 7 on les ed IUT .... 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 18 14 t Tu We Th Fn Sal Su Me Tu We Th Fri Sat Su es 3 d 4 ur . ... 5 6 it.... . 4 5 Sun 4 Mon 5 Tues 6 Wed 7 Sat. Sun. .. .. 6 7 i n [on. .. . 6 7 7 Mon Tues Wed Thui Fri.. 1 Tu We Th Fri Sat Sui Mn es d ur r ed. . . hur . . . 8 . 9 10 Thur 8 Fri 9 Fri 8 t a 8 9 10 Sat 9 in n 9 es 10 d 11 ur 12 13 Sat 10 Siin.. . . 11 Sun 10 Mon ... 11 M Ti W Tl Fl Sa Si M Ti W Tl Fl Sa Si M Ti W Tl Fi Sa Si M on les ed mr 11 i; 1 it 12 Mon H Tues 12 Wed 13 Thur 14 Fri 15 Sat.. H i 13 Tues 13 Wed 14 Thur 15 Fri 16 Sat 17 Sun ...14 n 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 21) 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 T ^ T F S S M T T F S S 1 T V T F ues . . . r ed... tiur. . . ri ..14 .15 .16 .17 14 Mon 1J Tues 1< Wed l f Thur li Fri 1! r t \ Tu We Th Fn Sat Sui Mo Tu We Th Fri Sat Sui Mo Tu We Th es d ur t a 15 Sat 16 Sun 17 in on les ed lur 1 . 10 17 18 19 20 Jl 22 23 24 25 2G 27 28 29 30 31 Me Tu We Th Fn Sal Su Me Tu We Th Fri Sal Su Me Tu n 16 es 17 d 18 UT....19 20 it . 18 Sun 18 Mon 18 Tues 19 Wed 20 Thur.... 21 Fri 22 Sat 23 Sun 24 Mon 25 Tues 26 Wed 27 in . . . . 19 Mon 19 Tues 20 Wed 21 Thur ....22 Fri 23 Sat.. Sun 2( ...21 i n es d ur i n 98 d ar [on . . . .20 ues... fed... hur. . ..21 .22 .23 21 Mon 22 Tues 2; Wed 24 Thur 2 Fri 2t Sat Sun 2? Mon 2J Tues 3 Wed..:.. 3] t a 22 n 23 es 74 d 25 ur 26 27 28 in on ies ed HIT .... i t ri . . . . it an. .. . on. . . .24 . 25 .26 .27 Sat 24 Sun 25 Mon 26 Tues 27 ues... r ed... hur . . .28 .29 .30 Wed..... 28 Thur.. ..29 Fri 30 Thur 28 Fri 29 Sat 30 a 29 n 30 es 31 in on ri . . . . .31 Sat 31 Sun 31 6148. Proportions of a Beautiful Body. The height should be exactly equal to the distance between the tips of the middle fingers of either hand when the arms are fully extended. Ten times the length of the hand, or seven and a half times the length of the foot, or five times the diameter of the chest from ;,ne armpit to the other, should also each give the height of the whole body. The dis- tance from the junction of the thighs to the ground should be the same as from that point to the crown of the head. The knee should be precisely midway between the same point and the bottom of the heel. The distance from the elbow to the tip of the middle finger should be the same as from the elbow to the middle line of the breast. From the top of the head to the level of the chin should be the same as from the level of the chin to that of the armpits, and from the heel to the toe. 538 TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC, 6149. Loss Sustained by Different Substances in Drying. Grains. Dried at Lose Grains. 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 Gallic Acid Sulphate of Quinine Arseniate of Soda Alum Carbonate of Soda Phosphate of Soda Sulphate of Soda Carbonate of Potassa 212 212 300 400 Dull Kedness u u it 9.5 14.4 40.38 47. 63. 63. 56. 16. Grains. Dried at Leave Grains. 29 10 100 50 50 Oxide of Silver Oxalate of Ceerium Oxalate of Iron Tartrate of Iron Carbonate of Magnesia Redness it i< it a 27 Metallic Silver 4.8 Oxide with Peroxide 27 Peroxide of Iron 15 Sesquioxide of Iron 22 Magnesia 6150. Table of Symbols and Equiva- lents of Metallic Elements. The specific gravity of the following are given at water standard. The equivalents are multiples. of iydrogen, which is adopted as the basis, or 1. Symbol. Equivalent. Sp. Or. U. 8. DU. Ure. Al Sb As Ba Bi B Cd Ca Ce Or Co Ta Cffl Cu D E G Au 11 In Ir Fe La Pb L Mg Mn Hg M Ni Nb No Os Pd Pe Pt K Ro Rb Ru Si Ag Na Sr Te Tb Tl Th Sn Ti W U V Y Zn Zr 13.70 122.00 75.00 68.70 210.00 10.90 55.80 20.00 46.00 26.30 29.50 185.00 31.70 47.50 56.30 7.00 199.00 60.20 74.00 98.80 28.00 44.30 103.60 7.00 12.00 27.70 200.00 48.00 29.50 94.00 99.70 53.30 98.90 39.20 52.20 85.40 52.20 21.30 108.00 23.30 43.80 64.00 204.00 59.60 59.00 25.00 92.00 60.00 51.?0 30.85 32.30 33.60 13.67 129.00 75.00 68.50 213.00 11.00 56.00 20.00 46.00 26.27 29.50 123.00 32.00 48.00 6.97 98.33 98.56 28.00 104.00 7.00 12.00 26.00 200.00 48.00 29.50 99.41 53.24 99.00 39.00 52.16 85.00 52.11 21.00 108.0( 23.00 44.00 64.08 59.50 59.00 24.12 92.00 60.00 68.46 32.52 33.58 2.56 6 70 5.67 4.70 9.80 2.68 8.63 1.58 5.90 8.53 8.72 19.4 18.63 7.84 11.30 .59 1.75 8.00 13.50 8.60 8.63 10.00 11.50 21.50 .86 11.20 8.60 10.43 .97 2.54 6.30 7.29 5.28 17.20 10.15 6.91 Antimony (Stibium) Arsenic Barium Bismuth Boron Cobalt 3olumbium (Tantalium) Glucinium Gold (Aurum) Ilmenium Indium Iridium Iron (Ferrum) Lantanium Magnesium Hercury (Hydrargyrum) Molybdenum Nickel Niobium Norium Palladium Pelopium Platinum Potassium (Kalium) Rhodium Rubidium Ruthenium Silicon Silver (Argentum) Sodium (Natrium) Strontium Tellurium Terbium Thallium Thorium Tin (Stannum) Titanium Tungsten (Wolfram) Uranium Yttrium Zinc Zirconium 6151. Table of Symbols and Equiva- lents of MTon-Metaflic Elements. The specific gravity of these are given in their gaseous form, air being the standard or 1.000. The equivalents are multiples of hydrogen which is adopted as the basis or 1. Symbol. Equivalent. Specific Gravity. U. S. Dis. Ure. Bromine Br 78.4 80.0 5.4110 Carbon C 6.0 6.0 .8290 Chlorine Cl 35.5 35.5 2.4530 Fluorine Fl 18.7 19.0 1.3270 Hydrogen H 1.0 1.0 .0692 Iodine 1 126.3 127.0 8.7827 Nitrogen F 14.0 14.0 .9713 Oxygen 8.0 8.0 1.1056 Phosphorus P 32.0 32.0 4.2840 Selenium Se 40.0 40.0 7.6960 Sulphur. S 16.0 16.0 2.2140 6152. To Reduce Parts by Volume or Measure to Parts by Weight. Multi- ply the parts by volume or measure by the specific gravity of the different substances ; the result will be parts by weight. 6153. To Find the Length of the Day or Night. To find the length of any day, double the time of sunset. Double the hour of sunrise will be the length of the night. 6154. To Reduce a Liquid to a Given Density. It has been already stated in No. 52 that the actual weight of any substance may be found by weighing an exactly equal bulk of water, and multiplying the weight found by the specific gravity of the substance ; the product is the actual weight. To sim- plify this, suppose that a liquid has a specific gravity of 1.325 ; also that a certain bulk of water (say any 1 measure) weighs 100 grains; then a similar bulk (1 measure) of the sub- stance would weigh 100X1.335 = 132.5 grains. Now, supposing we wish to reduce the weight of this liquid, so that 1 measure of it shall weigh only 115.5 grains (that is, shall have a specific gravity of 1.155), how much water, whose specific gravity is 1.000, must be added to it to produce this result ? From the nature of the proposition, it fol- lows that the bulk of the substance (1) mul- tiplied by its specific gravity (1.325), added to the bulk of added (unknown) water multi- plied by its specific gravity (1.000), must be equal to the aggregate bulk of the substance TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 539 and of the water combined, multiplied by its required specific gravity (1.155). Putting the above words into shape, and assuming x to be the required bulk or quantity of water (1X1.325) -fOxl.OOO) = (14*0X1.155 or 1.325 -f l.OOOx 1.155+1.155a; by subtracting 1.155 and 1.000 a? from each side we have .170 = .155a; in other words the required bulk of water, a? = :|W = 1.097 If, as supposed above, the measure assumed was such that it weighed 100 grains of water, we should have to add 109^ grains of water to 1 measure of the substance to produce a mixture of specific gravity 1.155. 6155. Gay Lussac's Light Areometer Reduced to Specific Gravity. This in- strument ranges from to 50, corre- sponding with water at 59 Fahr. 6157. Gay Lussac's Alcoholmeter Reduced to Specific Gravity. This instru- ment exhibits the percentage of alcohol by volume in different alcoholic mixtures at 59 Tahr. Degree. Sp. Gr. Diff. Degree. Sp. Gr. Diff. 1.0000 .0095 30 .7692 .0057 5 .9524 .0087 35 .7407 .0053 10 .9090 .0079 40 .7143 .0049 15 .8696 .0073 45 .6897 .0044 20 .8333 .0067 50 .6667 25 .8000 .0062 This table gives the specific gravity corre- sponding to every 5 degrees of the scale. To find the specific gravity of intermediate degrees, the average difference between each degree is given in the third column, each given difference referring to the four degrees following the degree opposite which the dif- ference is placed. Thus : To find the specific gravity corresponding with 33 degrees of the scale, look in the table for the specific gravity of the nearest lower degree given, in this instance 30; and we find .7692; 33 is 3 more than 30, hence we must deduct 3 times the given difference (.0057), or .0171; this last deducted from .7692 = .7521, which is the approximate specific gravity corre- sponding to 33 of the scale. The intermediate degrees of other areome- ters may be determined in a similar manner. The corresponding degrees of different areo- meters may also be found by a comparison with their respective specific gravities; allow- ance being made for difference of temperature. Information showing the practical use ol some of the areometers will be found in iSTos 58 to 68. 6156. Gay Lussac's Heavy Areometer Reduced to Specific Gravity. This areo- meter ranges from to 50, representing water at 59 Fahr. percent, of Alcohol by Volume. Sp. Grav. Diff. Per cent, of Alcohol by Volume. Sp. Grav. Diff. 100 95 90 85 80 75 70 65 .7947 .8168 .8346 .8502 .8645 .8799 .8907 .9027 .0044 .0036 .0031 0028 .0031 .0022 .0024 .0023 60 55 50 45 40 35 10 .9141 .9248 .9348 .9440 .9523 .9595 .9656 1.0000 .0021 .0020 .0018 .0016 .0014 .0002 .0034 The specific gravity of the intermediate degrees is found as explained in No. 6155, only ,hat the difference must be added instead of subtracted. 6158. Beck's Heavy Areometer Re- duced to Specific Gravity. This ranges rom to 76, corresponding with water at 54 k Fahr. Degree. Sp. Gr. Diff. Degree. Sp. Gr. Diff. 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 1.0000 1.0303 1.0625 1.0968 1.1333 1.1724 1.2143 1.2592 1.3077 .0061 .0064 .0068 .0073 .0078 .0084 .0090 .0097 .0105 45 50 55 60 65 70 75 76 1.3600 1.4167 1.4782 1.5454 1.6190 1.7000 1.7895 1.8085 .0113 .0123 .0134 .0147 .0162 .0179 The specific gravity of the intermediate degrees is obtained as shown in No. 6155, the differences being added instead of subtracted. 6159. Beck's Light Areometer Re- duced to Specific Gravity. The scale on this areometer marks from to 70, rep- resenting water at 54 Fahr. Deg. Sp. Gr. Diff. Deg. Sp. Gr. Diff. 1.0000 .0057 40 .8095 .0038 5 .9714 .0054 45 .7907 .0036 10 .9444 .0051 50 .7727 .0034 15 .9189 .0048 55 .7555 .0033 20 .8947 .0046 60 .7391 .0031 25 .8718 .0043 65 .7234 .0030 30 .8500 .0041 70 .7083 35 .8293 .0040 The equivalents of the intermediate degrees may be found by the method given in No. 6155. 6160. Dutch Light Areometer Re- duced to Specific Gravity. This areometer ranges from to 60, denoting water. Degree. Sp. Gr. Diff. Degree. Sp. Gr. Diff. Deg. Sp. Gr. Diff. Deg. Sp. Gr. Diff. 5 10 15 20 25 1.0000 1.0526 1.1111 1.1765 1.2500 1.3333 .0105 .0117 .0131 .0147 .0167 .0191 30 35 40 45 50 1.4286 1.5385 1.6667 1.8182 2.0000 .0220 .0256 .0303 .0363 5 10 15 20 25 30 1.0000 .9664 .9351 .9057 .8780 .8521 .8276 .0067 .0063 .0059 .0055 .0052 .0049 .0046 35 40 45 50 55 60 .8045 .7826 .7619 .7423 .7236 .7059 .0044 .0041 .0039 .0037 .0035 The specific gravity of the intermediate degrees is found in the same manner as in No 6155, only that the differences must be adde< instead of subtracted. The specific gravity of the intermediate de- grees may be found in the same manner as directed in No. 6155. TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 61 61 . The Heavy Areometer of Brix. This instrument is graduated from to 200, denoting water at 60 Fahr. Deg. Sp. Or. Diff. Deg. Sp. Gr. Diff. 1.0000 .0025 105 1.3559 .0047 5 1,0127 .0026 110 1.3793 .0048 10 1.0-256 .0027 115 1.4035 .0050 15 1.0390 .0027 120 1.4266 .0052 20 1.0526 .0028 125 1.4545 .0054 25 1.0667 0029 130 1.4815 .0056 30 1.0811 .0029 135 1.5094 .0058 35 1.0058 .0030 140 1.5385 .0060 40 1.1111 .0031 145 1.5686 .0063 45 1.1268 .0032 150 1.6000 .0065 50 1.1429 .0033 155 1.6326 .0068 55 1.1594 .0034 160 1.6667 .0071 60 1.1765 .0035 165 1.7021 .0074 65 1.1940 .0036 170 1.7391 .0077 70 1.2121 .0037 175 1.7777 .0081 75 1.2308 .0038 180 1.8182 .0085 80 1.2500 .0039 185 1.8605 .0089 85 1.2698 .0040 190 1.9047 .0093 90 1.2900 .0042 195 1.9512 .0098 95 1.3115 .0044 200 2.0000 100 1.3333 .0045 The specific gravity of the intermediate de- grees is obtained as in No. 6155, by adding the differences instead of subtracting them. 6162. The Light Areometer of Brix. This areometer is graded from to 200, corresponding with water at 60 Fahr. Degree. Sp. Gr. Diff. Degree. Sp. Gr. Diff. 1.0000 .0025 105 .7921 .0016 5 .9876 .0024 110 .7843 .0015 10 .9756 .0024 115 .7767 .0015 15 .9638 .0023 120 .7692 .0015 20 .9524 .0022 125 .7619 .0014 25 .9412 .0022 130 .7547 .0014 30 .9302 .0021 135 .7477 .0014 35 .9195 .0021 140 .7407 .0014 40 .9091 .0020 145 .7339 .0013 45 .8989 .0020 150 .7273 .0013 50 .8889 .0020 155 .7207 .0013 55 .8791 .0019 160 .7143 .0013 60 .8696 .0019 165 .7080 .0012 65 .8602 .0018 170 .7018 .0012 70 .8511 .0018 175 .6957 .0012 75 .8421 .0018 180 .6897 .0012 80 .8333 .0017 185 .6838 .0012 85 .8247 .0017 190 .6780 .0011 90 .8163 .0016 195 .6723 .0011 95 .8081 .0016 200 .6667 100 .8000 .0016 To obtain the specific gravity of the inter- mediate degrees see No. 6155. 6163. Dutch Heavy Areometer Re- duced to Specific Gravity. The range of this instrument is from to 75, corre- sponding with water. Deg. Sp. Gr. Diff. Deg. Sp. Gr. Diff. 1.0000 .0072 40 1.3846 .0140 5 1.0359 .0077 45 1.4545 .0155 10 1.0746 .0083 50 1.5319 .0172 15 1.1163 .0090 55 1.6180 .0193 20 1.1613 .0098 60 1.7143 .0217 25 1.2101 .0106 65 1.8228 .0246 30 1.2631 .0116 70 1.9459 .0282 35 1.3211 .0127 75 2.0869 The specific gravity of the intermediate degrees is easily obtained by following the directions laid down in No. 6155, adding the difference instead of subtracting it. 6164. Twaddel's Areometer Reduced to Specific Gravity. The range of this areometer or saccharometer is from to 200, corresponding with water. Degrees. Sp. Grav. Degrees. . Sp. Gray. 1.000 105 1.525 5 1.025 110 1.550 10 1.050 115 1.575 15 1.075 120 1.600 20 1.100 125 1.625 25 1.125 130 1.650 30 1.150 135 1.675 35 1.175 140 1.700 40 1.200 145 1.725 45 1.225 150 1.750 50 1.250 155 1.775 55 1.275 160 1.800 60 1.300 165 1.825 65 1.325 170 1.850 70 1.350 175 1.875 75 1.375 180 1.900 80 1.400 185 1.925 85 1.425 190 1.950 90 1.450 195 1.975 95 1.475 200 2.000 100 1.500 In the above table the difference between the degrees is .005, throughout ; the specific gravity of the intermediate degrees. can be found by following the method given in No. 6155, adding instead of deducting the differ- ence. (See No. 68.) 6165. Baum6's Heavy Areometer. This instrument marks from to 75, being water at 63| Fahr. Deg. Sp. Gr. Diff. Deg. Sp. Gr. Diff. 1.0000 .0071 40 1.3746 .0135 5 1.0353 .0076 45 1.4421 .0149 10 1.0731 .0081 50 1.5166 .0165 15 1.1138 .0088 55 1.5992 .0184 20 1.1578 .0095 60 1.6914 .0207 25 1.2053 .0103 65 1.7948 .0234 30 1.2569 .0112 70 1.9117 .0266 35 1.3131 .0123 75 2.0448 The specific gravity of the intermediate de- grees can be obtained as directed in No. 6155, adding the difference instead of subtracting. A ready method of calculating the specific gravity corresponding to the degrees of this areometer, sufficiently correct for common purposes, will be found in No. 66 ; the table given in No. 65 is made on that principle, and based on 1000 as the unit representing water, instead of 1. 6166. Baume's Light Areometer. This areometer ranges from 10 to 60, 10 denoting water at 54 \ G Fahr. Deg. Sp. Gr. Diff. Deg. Sp. Gr. Diff. 10 15 20 25 30 35 1.0000 .9669 .9358 .9067 .8794 .8537 .00(56 .0062 .0058 .0055 .0051 .0049 40 45 50 55 60 .8294 .8065 .7848 .7642 .7447 .0046 .0043 .0041 .0039 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 54=1 The specific gravity of the intermediate de- grees is found by following the directions given in ifo. 6155. A simple method for converting the degrees of this areometer into specific gravity, applicable in cases where great accuracy is not required, is given in No. 66. A table, similar to the above, will be found in No. 62, sufficiently accurate for general practical purposes. Miscellaneous Receipts. These consist mainly of such receipts as could not be properly included in any division of the work ; embracing also a few additional general receipts, whose merits de- manded their insertion, obtained too late for classification under their proper headings. 6168. To Prepare Skeleton Leaves. The object in view is to destroy what may be called the fleshy part of the leaf, as well as the skin, leaving only the ribs or veins. The most successful, and probably the simplest way to do this, is to soak the leaves in rain- water till they are decomposed. For this purpose, when the leaves are collected, they should bo placed in an earthenware pan or a wooden tub, kept covered with rain-water, and allowed to stand in the sun. In about 2 weeks time they should be examined, and if found pulpy and decaying, will be ready for skeletonizing, for which process some cards, a camel's-hair brush, as well as one rather stiff (a tooth-brush, for instance), will be required. When all is prepared, gently float a leaf onto a card, and with the soft brush carefully remove the skin. Have ready a basin of clean water, and when the skin of one side is completely removed, reverse the card in the water, and slip it under the leaf, so that the other side is uppermost. Brush this to remove the skin, when the fleshy part will most likely come with it ; but if not, it will readily wash out in the water. If parti- cle.-! of the green-colored matter still adhere to the skeleton, endeavor to remove them with the soft brush ; but if that is of no avail, the hard one must be used. Great care will be necessary to avoid breaking the skele- ton, and the hard brush should only be used in a perpendicular direction (a sort of gentle tapping), as any horizontal motion or brush- ing action will infallibly break the skeleton. Never attempt to touch the leaves or the skeleton in this state with the fingers, as when they are soft their own weight will often break them. Well-grown leaves should always be chosen, and be thoroughly examined for flaws before soaking. Leaves containing much tannin cannot be skeletonized by this process, bat are generally placed in a box with a num- ber of caddis worms, which eat away the fleshy parts, when the skeletons can be bleached by the method given in the next receipt. Holly leaves must be placed in a separate vessel, on account of their spines, which would be apt to damage other leaves ; they make beautiful skeletons, and are safli- cientlv strong to be moved with the fingers. (See No. 6170.) 6169. To Bleach Skeleton Leaves. A good way of bleaching skeleton leaves is to prepare a solution of chloride of lime, which must be allowed to settle, and the clear liquid poured into a basin, in which the skeletons may be put by floating them off the card. It is as well to have half a dozen ready to bleach at once, as they require watch- ing, and if allowed to remain in the liquid too long will fall to pieces. From 2 to 4 hours will generally suffice to bleach the skeleton of all ordinary leaves, after which they should be washed in several changes of water, and finally left in clean water for ^ hour. After the leaf has been sufficiently washed it should be floated onto a card and dried as quickly as possible, care being taken to arrange the skeleton perfectly flat, and as near as possible to the natural shape. This can be done with the assistance of the soft brush. When dry the skeleton should be perfectly white, and may be mounted on dark backgrounds, as black velvet or paper. (See No. 6171.) 6170. Quick Method of Preparing Skeleton Leaves. A solution of caustic soda is to be made by dissolving 3 ounces washing soda in 2 pints boiling water, and adding 1J ounces quicklime previously slack- ed ; boil for 10 minutes, decant the clear solu- tion, and bring it to the boil. During ebulli- tion add the leaves ; boil briskly for about au hour, occasionally adding hot water to supply the place of that lost by evaporation. Take out a leaf, put it into a vessel of water, and rub it between the fingers under the water. If the skin and pulpy matter separate easily, the rest of the leaves may be removed from the solution, and treated in the same way; but if not, then the boiling must be continued for some time longer. (See No. 6168.) 6171. To Bleach Skeleton Leaves. To bleach the skeleton leaves, mix about 1 drachm chloride of lime with 1 pint water, adding sufficient acetic acid to liberate the chlorine. Steep the leaves in this until they are whitened (about 10 minutes), taking care not to let them stay in too long, as they are apt to become brittle. Put them into clean water, and float them out on pieces of paper. Lastly, remove them from the paper before they are quite dry, and place them in a book or botanical press. They look best when mounted on black velvet or paper. (See No. 6169.) 6172. To Stain Dried Grass. There are few prettier ornaments, and none more economical and lasting, than bouquets of dried grasses, mingled with the various un- changeable flowers. They have but one fault ; and that is, the want of other colors besides yellow and drab or brown. To vary their shade, artificially, these flowers are sometimes dyed green. This, however, is in bad taste, and unnatural. The best effect is produced by blending rose and red tints, to- gether with a very little pale blue, with the grasses and flowers, as they drv naturally. The best means of dyeing dried leaves, flow- ers, and grasses, is to dip them into the spirit- uous liquid solution of the various compounds of analine. (See Nos. 2552, $c.) Some of these have a beautiful rose shade ; others red, blue, orange, and purple. The depth of color can be regulated by diluting, if necessary, the original dyes, with spirit, down to the shade desired. When taken out of the dye they MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. should be exposed to the air to dry off the spirit. They then require arranging, or set- ting into form, as, when wet, the petals and fine filaments have a tendency to cling to- f ether. A pink saucer, as sold by most ruggists, will supply enough rose dye for two ordinary bouquets. The pink saucer yields the best rose dye by washing it off with water and lemon juice. The analine dyes yield the best violet, mauve, and purple colors. 6173. Artificial Coral. Melt together yellow resin, 4 parts ; vermilion, 1 part. This gives a very pretty effect to glass, twigs, raisin stalks, cinders, stones, HKHE. Aitkin's Compound Syrup of Iron 4648 Aix-la-Chapello Water 4463 Ajutage of Fountains 6233 Alabaster 2020 Alabaster Alabaster Alabaster Alabaster Alabaster on . Alabaster Alabaster Alabaster Alabaster Cement for. ..2160, 2177 Imitation 2020 to cast 2031 to clean 2034 to dress with wax. .2023 to engrave or etch 2021 to harden 2022, 2025 to polish 2030 to render durable . . . 2024 to stain 2029 Albumen 4346 Albumen, Tests for 4348 Albumenized Paper for Photo- graphy 3132, 3178 Albuminous Size 1953 Alcohol 1435, &c. Alcohol, Absolute 1441, 6368 Alcohol, Amylio 1440 Alcohol, Dilute, officinal 1437 Alcohol, Officinal 1438 Alcohol, Proof 1436 A luohol. Rules for the treatment of 144S, &c. Alcohol, Stronger, officinal..,. 1439 ALC ALK Alcohol. Tables of Percentage of 55, &c. Alcohol, Table comparing the Weight and Volume of 57 Alcohol, to ascertain the Costof 1450 Alcohol, to deodorize 1446 Alcohol, to dilute 1451 Alcohol, to filter 144T Alcohol, to find the Percentage of 1452 Alcohol, to free from Fusel Oil. 1445 Alcohol, to increase theStrength of 1443 Alcohol, to preserve with 1632 Alcohol, to raise the proof of. . 1454 1459, &c. Alcohol, to raise low-proof 1463 Alcohol, to reduce low-proof. . . 1462 Alcohol, to reduce the proof of 1453 1455, &c. Alcohol, to reduce the Strength 60" Alcohol, to test the Puritv ot. . . 1444 Alcohol, to test theStrength of 1448 Alcohol Vinegar, to improve . . . 1743 Alcohol Vinegar, to make 1741 Alcoholate of Roses 1017 Alcoholic Extracts, to prepare. 44 Alcoholic Fermentation 16 Alcoholic Solution 29 Alcoholized Sulphuric Acid... 4741 Alcohohneters, see HYDROME- TEKS and AREOMETERS. Alcoholmetry 53, &o. Aldehyd-ammouia 4307 Aldehyde 2557, 4308 Ale, Bitter Balls for 870 Ale, Fining for 871 Ale, to brew 856, &c. Ale, to clarify 873 Ale, to fine 747 Alkali-Blue Dye 2606 Alknli, Caustic, to test 584, &c. Alkali Stains, to remove from Garments, &c 398 Alkali Stiffening for Hats 336 Alkalies 3973, &c. Alkalies, Effect of, on Colors.. 361 Alkalies, Table of Equivalents of 80 Alkalies, to find the Strength of 84 Alkalimeters 82 Alkalimetry 83 Alkaline Metals, Amalgams of 3546 Alkaline Poisons, Antidotes for 5901 Alkaline Svrup of Rhubarb 4675 Alkaline Waters, Aerated 4432 Alkaloids 3996. &c. Alkaloids, Tests to distinguish 4023 Alkaloids, to obtain 4022 566 ALK AMA Alkanet-Red Color 2630 AUcock's Porous Plaster 5275 Allen's Nerve and Bone Liui- ment 5224 Allison's Tobacco Ointment.. 5290 Allspice, Essence of 952 Allspice, Essential Oil of 1465 Allspice, Fluid Extract of 4579 Alloxan 4224 Alloy, Expansion 3454 Alloy, Fluid 3455 Alloy of the Government Stan- dard Measures 3434 Alloys 3347, &c. Allovs for Dentists' Moulds 3435 &c. Alloys, French, for Forks, &C..3427 Alloys, Fusible 3456 Alloys of Aluminum 3429 Alloys of Copper 3348, 3437 Alloys of Gold S398, &c. Alloys of Lead 3419, 3426 Alloys of Quicksilver, SEE AMAL- GAMS. Alloys of Silver 3404, 3727 Cyanide of Potassium 4202 Cyanide of Potassium, Caution against 1160 Cyanide of Potassium, Lotion of 1158 Cyanide of Potassium, Test for Free, in Solutions 3703 Cyanide of Potassium, Ulcers caused bv, to cure 5918 Cyanide ofSilver 3697 Cyanide of Silver, to dissolve .. 3699 Cyanide of Silver and Potas- sium 3698 Cyanide of Zinc 3753, 4115 Cyanide of Zinc, Solution of. ..3754 Cyanotype Paper 3174 Cyanurcts, see CYANIDES. Cylinders, Cubical Contents of 6001 Cymbals 3446 Da Costa's Constipation Pills. .5455 Daffy's Elixir 5217 Dahlia Cuttings, to manage. . .1831 Dahlia Roots, to preserve 1888 Dolby's Carminative 5172 Dale's Process for Oxalic Acid 3902 Damask Curtains, to clean 450 Dandelion Alterative 5164 Dandelion, Infusion of 5701 Dandelion Pills 5700 Dandelions, to kill 1867 Dark Green Dye for Cottsns. . . 163 Dauyergn6's Tar Pomade 1281 Davidson's mode of deodoriz- ing Putrid Whale Oil 1488 Davis' Neutralizing Cordial . . .5424 Davis' Pain Killer 5410 Dawson's Patent Soap 545 Day & Martin's Blacking 3101 Day, to find the Length of the. .6153 Deafness, Remedies for ..5809, 5814 Debility, Treatment of 5780 Decalcomine Pictures, to ap- ply ,..6195 Decantation 10 Decanters, to clean 430 Decarbonization 3843 Decayed Wine, to remedy 752 Decimal Approximations for Calculations 6119 DEC DIS DIS DRI DRI EAR 575 Decimal Equivalents of Feet, Inches, &c 5979, 5985 Decimal "Weights, bend 631G Gas, to find the Specific Gravity of 49 Gas, to find the Weight of 4032 Gas Tubing, India-rubber, to make Gas-tight 4033 Gas, Weight, 822 Hands, to remove Stains from the 387, 2566, 3141 Hard and Soft Soap 520 Hard Soap, to make 520, &c., 582, &c. Hard Soap, to pulverize ' 619 Hard Soldering 3488, &c. Hardwich's Photographic Ton- ing Bath 3184 Hare's Colorless Photograph Varnish 2932 Hare's Pyrophorus 4342 Harlaud's Gonorrhoea Reme- dies 5731, 5732 Harmalino 4009 Harmine 4009 Harness, Blacking for 3081, &c. Harness Blacking, to apply . . .3085 Harness, Cement for Joining . .2245 Harness, ,Tct for 307!) Harness, Polish for 3075 j HAR HOM Harness, to clean 3074 Harness, to preserve, 3074 Harness, to restore the Lustre of 3066 Harness, to soften, when Hard 3067 Harness, Varnish for 2966 Harrogate Water 4466 Hartshorn, to purify 1293 Harvey's Sauce 1758 Hat-Bfack Dye for Silks 240 Hats, Alkali Stiffening for 336 Hats, Spirit Stiffening for 335 Hats, to dye 334 Hausmann's Indestructible Ink 2527 Hay Fever, Treatment of 5591 Hayes' Pile Liniment 5219 Headache, Essence for 5229 Headache, Remedies for. .5702, &c. Heading for Beer 876 Healing Paper 5059 Healing Salve 4971 Health Pills 5188, 5199 Heart, Palpitation of, to relieve,5766 Heartburn, Treatment of 5690 Heat, Amount of, for boiling Syrups 1361 Heat conducting Power of Build- ing Materials 6125 Heavy Spar 2697 Heliotrope, Eau do 1003 Hellebore, American, Fluid Ex- tract of 4575 Hellebore, American, Tincture of 4496, 4515 Hellebore, Black, Fluid Extract of 4575 Hellebore, Black, Tincture of .4506 Hemlock, Fluid Extract of 4578 Hemlock Liniment 4859 Hemlock, Oil of 4752 Hemlock Poultice 5034 Hemlock Salve 4969 Hemlock, Syrup of, Compound. 4681 Hemlock, Tincture of 4489 Hemorrhage, Prepared Cotton for 5560 Hemorrhage, Solution for. 4816, 5429 Hemorrhage, Treatment of 5556, &c. Hemp, Tincture of 4485 Hempseed Oil, Tests for. .1497, 1498 Henbane, Fluid Extract of 4574 Henbane, Oil of 4752 Henbane, Tincture of 4511 Henderson's Lotion for Corns. .5329 Henry's Aromatic Vinegar 1086 Henry's Magnesia 5230 Herbarium, to form a 6176 Herb Drink for Fevers 5136 Herbs, Soup, Extract of 1044 Herbs, to extract Essential Oil from 46 Herbs, to gather and dry 6240 Herbs, to preserve, for Perfum- ery 1349 Hermetical Sealing for Bottles. 2238 Heusler's Red Ink 2498 Heyle's Horse Embrocation . . .5222 Hickory-Nut Flavoring for Li- quors 671 Higgins' Stucco 2201 High Wine 1435 Hill's Balsam of Honey 5231 Hirzel's Mode of Preserving Fats 1515 Hive Syrup 5273 Hoarseness, Cure for 5617, &c. Hoarseness, Syrup for 5249 Hoarseness, to prevent 5621 Hock Syrup 1423 Hodgen's Stomnch-Pump 5917 Hoffmann's Aniline Purple 2608 Hoffmann's Anodyne 4749 Hoffmann's Life Balsam 5112 Hogg's Pepsine Pills 5460 Hog's Lard, sec LAUD. Hogs, Live, Weight of Pork in 6129 Hogs, to drive Fleas from 1913 Holland, Weights and Measures of 6090 Holland Linen, Sizing for 6328 Tlolloway's Ointment 5368 Holloway's Pills 5369 Ilomberg's Pyrophorus 4341 HOM HTD Home-Made Champagne. .730, 6417 Home-Made Soap 549, 551 Home-Made Tallow Candles. .. 631 Home-Macle Wines 727, &o. Homoeopathic Cholera Prevent- ive 5671 Homoeopathic Cholera Remedy 5672 Homoeopathic Mustard Plaster 5056 Hones, Lubricators for. . .6270, 6272 Hones, to face 6274 Honey 1565, &c. Honey and Almond Paste 1134 Honey, Artificial... 1572, 1574, 6416 Honey, Balsam of 5093, 5231 Honey, Cosmetic Balsam of . . .1121 Honey, Cuba 1573 Honey of Borax 4695 Honey of Roses 4694 Honey of Violets 4696 Honey, Test for 1576 Honey, to clarify 1569, &c., 4693 Honey, to purify 1566, &c. Honey Water 1006 Honey Wine 733 Honey-Soap, Imitation 561 Honey-Soap, to make 560 Honeysuckle Pomade 1263 Hoof, Cracked, Ointment for ..5002 Hooks and Eyes, to silver 3608 Hooper's Female Pills 5382 Hope's Camphor Mixture 5387 Hope's Cough Mixture 5611 Hops, Fluid Extract of 4594 Hops, Tincture of 4510 Horehound, Balsam of ...5092, 5367 Horn 2012 Horn, to dye 2013 Horn, to imitate Tortoiseshell with 2016 Horn, to polish 2019 Horn, to prepare 2014 Horn, to silver 3628 Horn, to unite 2615, 2018 Hornet Stings, to cure 5927 Horsemint, Essential Oil of 1465 Horseradish, Syrup of 4688 Horseradish, Syrup of, lodin- ized 4689 Horseradish Vinegar .1773 Horseradish Water, to distill. .1071 1073. Horse Liniment 4896, 5222 Horses, to banish Fleas from.. 1913 Horses, to keep Flies from 1924 Horsley's Chlorodyne 5205 Hortus Siccus, to form a 6176 Hot Drops 5179 Hot Drops for Beer 891 Hot-Houses, Substitute for Glass for 1887 House-Painting 2745, &c., 2756 House-Painting, Flatting for. .2753 House-Painting, Inside Work 2751 House-Painting, Outside Work.2749 House-Painting, Preparing for. 2746 House-Painting, when to do. ..2755 Houses, Old, to paint 2773 Hubbell's Creain Syrup 1428 Hubbell's Extract of Culisaya. .4706 Hubbell's Wine of Iron 4705 Huckleberry Wine 728 Hudson's Cold Cream 1126 Hufeland's Anti-catarrh Elixir,5447 Hufeland's Aperient Elixir 5446 Hufeland's Diuretic Drops 5311 Hufeland's Infant Powder 5450 Hufeland's Pectoral Elixir 5445 Hufeland's Zinc Cerate 5379 Huile a 1'Ambre 1240 Huile a la Vanille 1239 Huile d' Ambergris 1240 Huile Musqufe 1236 Huile Royale 1237 Huiles, French 1244 Hungarian Liniment 4867, 5473 Hungarian Pomade 1287 Hunter's Bougie 6370 Hunter's Red Drop 5411 Husson, Eau Meaicinale de...5208 Hyacinth Roots, to preserve. . . 1888 Hyacinths, to raise, in Winter 1840 Hydrangea Cuttings, to man- age 1842 HYD IND INI) INK INK HtO 533 Hydrangea Flowers, to make, I India-Rubber Glue . . . . 2293 Hydrate of Alumina 4257 Hydrate of Chloral 4276 Hydrate of Chloral, Syrup of. .4679 Hydrate of Chloral, to adminis ter. 4746 Hydrate of Chloral, to purify.. 4278 Hydrate of Lime 3994 Hydrate of Phenyle 3916 Hydrate of Potassa 3976, 4192 Hydrate of Soda 3979 Hydraulic Cement 2174 Hydriodates 3970, 4326 Hydriodate of Quinine 4264 Hvdriodatc Solution for Photo- gra .3183 Hydriodic Acid 3970 Hydriodic Acid. Dilute 3972 Hydriodic Acid, to obtain. . . .3971 Hydrobromates, see BROMIDES. Hy drobromic Acid 4261 Hydrochlorates, see MURIATES. Hydrochloric Acid, see MURI- ATIC ACID. Hydrocyanates 3947 Hydrocyanic Acid, see Pitussic ACID. Hydroferridcyanic Acid 3954 Hydro ferrocyanic Acid 3956 Hydrofluorates 3960 Hydrofluoric Acid 3960 Hydrogen 4041 Hydrogen, Carburetted 4048 Hydrogen, Phosphuretted 4055 Hydrogen, Sulphuretted. 3870, 4052 Hydrogen, Tests for 4047 Hydrogen, to obtain 4042, &c. Hydrographic Paper 1976 Hydrometers, Standard 53, &c. Hydrometers, sec AUEOMETEKB. Hydrophobia, Cures for.. 5920, &c. Hydrophobia, to prevent 5923 Hydrophobia, Treatment of. ..5919 Hydrosulphate of Ammonia. . . 1203 Hydrosulphides. See HYDRO- SOLrHORETS. Hydrosulphuret of Ammonia.. 1203 Hydrosulphuret of Ammonia, Solution of 4803 Jlydrosulphurct of Ammonium4228 Hydrosulphuric Acid 3870 Hydrochloric Ether 4290 Hydrochlorite of Lime. . 4245 Hypochlorite of Soda Solution 4788 Hypochondriasis, Treatment of 5577 Hyponitric Acid 3872 Hyponitrous Acid Disinfectant 1697 Hypophosphites, Compound Sy- rup of 4643, &c. Hypophosphito of Iron 4642 Hypophosphoric Acid 3928 Hyposulphite of Lime 4248 Hyposulphite of Soda 4211 Hyssop Water, to distill, 1071, 1073 Ice, Camphor 1132 Ice, to keep, in Summer 1691 Igneous Fusion 19 Ignition 3850 Imitations, see ARTICLE IMITATED. Inperial Peach Brandy 786 Imperial Pop 900 Imperial Weights and Mea- sures 6031, &c. Implements for Gilding 1 on Wood 3557 Incense .1346, &c, Inches Compared with Metres. 5977 Inches, Decimal Equivalents of5'.)79 Incontinence of Urine, to cure 5743 Incrustations, see BOILEII I\- CIIU8TATIOXS. Indelible Inks 2508, &c. Indelible Ink Stains, to remove. 129 385, 6340. Indelible Marking Ink 2508, &.c. Indelible Printing Ink 2546 Indelible Writing Fluid 2489 Indestructible Inks 2526, &c. India Japanning 3038, &c. India Nut-oil, Test for 1497 India-Rubber Oil Varnish 2886, &c. India-Rubber Over-shoes, to mend 2258, 6374 India-Rubber, Solvents for 2947 India- Rubber Spirit-varnish . . 2949 2952. India-Rubber, to dissolve 2248 India-Rubber, to join, to Wood or Metal 2253 India-Rubber Tubing, to ren- der, Gas-tight 4033 Indian Cathartic Pills 5303 Indian Curry Powder 1760 Indian Dysentery Cure 5676 Indian or Chinese Ink 2515 Indian Ink Sketches, to pro- tect. .6363 Indian Liniment 5228 Indian Pickle 1805 Indian Red 2718 Indian Remedy for Rhenmatism5536 Indian Turnip Poultice 5028 Indian Vegetable Pills 5186 Indian White Fire 2104 Indigo-Blue Dye for Yarn 130 Indigo Extract 99 Indigo, Solution of 4791 Indigo, Solvents for 2619, 3858 Indigo, Sulphate of 98, 4791 Inexhaustible Smelling Salts.. 1093 Inextinguishable Match 2061 Infant Powder 5450 Infant Preservative 5352 Infants, Diarrhoea in, to cure. 5661 5666. Infection, to prevent 1707, 1708 Inflamed Parts, Lotion for 4823 Inflammation of the Ear, Rem- edy for 5813 Inflammation of the Throat, see GARGLES. Influenza, Mixture for 5623 Infusion 37 Infusions, to prepare 38 Infusion, Diuretic 5148 Infusion of Bark 5128 Infusion of Calumba 5121 Infusion of Roses 4739 Infusion, Tonic 5120 Infusion, to perfume Oils by. . .1228 Infusion, to perfume Pomades by 1262 Infusion to produce Sweating. 5K!8 Ingall's lodoform Ointment 4992 Inhalation of Cubebs and Car- bolic Acid 5606 Inhalation of Tar 5G13 Injection for Gonorrhoea 5435, 5438 5439. Injection, to salt Meat by. . . .1604 Ink 24RO, 7, 5473 Liniment, Hydrochloric Acid. .4875 Liniment, Indian 5223 586 LIN LIT Liniment, London 4865 Liniment, Magic 4861 Liniment, Mexican Mustang.. 5221 Liniment, Morphia 4860 Liniment, Mustard, Compound 489: Liniment, Mustard-oil 489' Liniment, Neuralgia 5218, 5220 Liniment, Nerve and Bone4893, 5224 Liniment, Opium 4878 Liniment, Petroleum 4 877, 5402, 5836 Liniment, Pile 5219 Liniment, Rheumatic 4884 Liniment, Soap.... 4869, 5443, 6404 Liniment, Stimulating 4888 Liniment, Sulphuric Acid 5399 Liniment Valuable 4866 Liniment, Volatile 488 1 Liniment, Whooping Cough ..5257 Liniment, Wonderful 4895 Linseed Oil, Boiled. : 2727, &c. Linseed Oil, Tests for 1497 Linseed Oil, to clarify, for Var- nish 2869 Linseed Oil, to detect 1498 Linseed Oil, to prepare, for Var- nish 2868 Linseed Oil, Wilk's Refined. . . 2871 Linseed Poultice 5023 Lint, Medicated 5076 Lip Salve, French 1174 Lip Salve, German 1175 Lip Salve, Glycerine 1173 Lip Salve, Peruvian 1170 Lip Salve, Red 1170 Lip Salve, Rose ....1171 Lip Salve, White 1172 Lips, Cacao Pomade for 1136 Lips, Cr6me do Psych6 for 1137 Lips, Pomade Rosat for 1135 Liquation 21 Liquefaction 22 Liqueurs 767, &c. Liqueur dcla Grande Chartreuse, 806, 6291. Liquid Blue 4791 Liquid Boot Blacking 3086, &c. Liquid Colors 2614, &c. Liquid Colors for Druggists2648,&c. Liquid ColorsforMaps,&c.,2640,&c. Liquid Glue 2383, &c. Liquid Gold 2518, 3195 Liquid Guano 1825 Liquid, Hair-curling 1191 Liquid Mannro 1824 Liquid Measure 5966 Liquid Measure compared with Apothecaries' 5967 Liquid Measure compared with Imperial 5968 Liquid Measure compared with Metrical 5969 Liquid Measure, Imperial 6034 Liquid Measure, Imperial, com- pared with U. States 6035 Liquid Measure, Imperial, com- pared with Litres 6036 Liquid Silver 2519 Liquid Spectroscopes 2364 Liquids, Boiling Heat of 6, 6133 Liquids, Statistics of 6138 Liquids, to find the Specific Gravity of 49 Liquids, to reduce, to a given Density 6154 Liquor, Bleaching 104 Liquor, Cochineal 106 Liquor, Iron 118 Liquor of Camphor 4611 Liquor of Iodide of Iron 4703 Liquor of Potassa 4784 Liquor of Soda 4785 Liquor, Plumb Ill Ijqnor, Red 100 Liquorice, Fluid Extract of 4595 Liquors, Flavorings for 664, &c. Liquors for Shampooing 1189 Liquors, Imitation 663 Liquors, Syrups for 1369 Liquors, white, to blanch 705 Litharge 4106 Litharge, Antidote for 5908 Litharge Plaster 5043 Lithia 3983 LIT LOT Lithia, Carbonate of 4238 Lithia, Sulphate of 4239 Lithia, Tests for 3984 Lithia Water, Aerated 4436 Lithographic Crayons 1958 Lithographic Ink 2547, .. .4246 Muriate of Magnesia 4243 Muriate of Nickel 4174 Muriate of Tin 4123, 4124 Muriatcd Photographic Paper . 3170 Muriatic Acid 3682, 53, f-404 Ointment, Croton Oil 5702 Ointment, Cucumber . r >OCO Ointment. Egyptian 5005 Ointment for Baker's Itch 4957 Ointment for Chilblains 4934 Ointment for Cracked-hoof 5002 Ointment for Foot-rot 5G01 Ointment for Issue 5284 Ointment for Itch. . .4954, 4999, 5239 5243, 5322. Ointment for Neuralgia . .4979, 4982 Ointment for Old Sores 4976 Ointment for Piles 4986, &c. Ointment for Salt Rheum 4962 Ointment for Sore Nipples 4985 Ointment for Vermin 5395 Ointment, Fuligokali 5380 Ointment, Gall, Compound 5006 Ointment, Glycerine 5009 Ointment, Green 4974 Ointment, Green Basilicon 4967 Ointment, Iodide of Lead 4991 Ointment, Iodide of Potassium . 501 3 Ointment, Iodide of Sulphur . .4950 Ointment, Iodine, Compound. .4942 Ointment, Iodine, Glycerinated 5015 Ointment, lodoform 4992 Ointment, Lard 4937 Ointment, Lead 4980 Ointment, Magnetic 4963 Ointment, Mercurial 4947, 5011 Ointment, Narcotic 5016 Ointment, Nitrate of Mercury .5012 Ointment, Obstetric 5341 Ointment of "Three" 5294 Ointment, Petroleum 5014 Ointment, Resin 4964 Ointment, Rheumatic 5293 Ointment, Savinc 4938 Ointment, Spermaceti 4940 Ointment, Starch, Glycerinatcd5C09 Ointment. Stavesacre 4956 Ointment, Stramonium 494G Ointment, Sulphur 4908 Ointment, TannatcofMagnesia49!)4 Ointment, Tannin 4'J8(> Ointment, Tar 4960, 5280 Ointment, Tcrtar-cmctic 4995 Ointment, Tobacco. .4CG I, 5290, &e. Ointment, Venice Turpentine.. 4958 Ointment, Vermin 5395 Ointment, Wax 4939 Ointment, Wonderful 4895 Ointment, Ycllovr Basilicon ^'JG5 Ointment, Zinc 4981 Old Tom Gin, Imitation C98 Olefiant Gas 4051 Oleinc 1 550 Olcorcsius 457:5, 4579, &c. Oleorcsin cf Elack Pepper 4583 Oleorcsin cf Capsicum 4580 Oleoresin cf Cubcbs 4581 Oleorcsin of Ginger 4584 Oleorcsin cf Lupulin 4582 Oleoresin of Malo Fern 4585 Olive-Drab Dvc fcr Cottons 178 Olive-Dye fcr'Cottons 166, &c. Olive-Dye for Silks 81 Olive-Dye for Woolens 209, 228 Olivc-Enamcla 2384 Olive-Oil Soft-socp 605 Olive-Oil, Test fcr 1408, 1500 Olive-Oil, to rcfir.c K02 Onions as a Disinfectant 1706 Onions, Pickled 1794 Onions, to correct tho Odor of, in the Breath 5864 Onions, to preserve 1888 Onions, to prevent Grub in 1856 Opal, Imitation 2431 Opiate Tooth-paste 1320 Opiated Wine of Colchicum . . .5389 Opium 4268 Opium, Antidotca fcr 5909 Opium, Elixir cf 4735 Opium Liniment 4878 Opium, Oil cf 4752 Opium, Percentage of Morphine .3998 Opium Pills 4914 Opium, Solution cf 5412 Opium, Substitute fcr 51 32 Opium, Tests for 4269, 4270 Opium, Tincture of 4529 OPI OXI Opium, Tincture of, Ammonia- ted 4530 Opium, Tincture of, Camphora- ted 4527 Opium, Tincture cf, Compound 4531 Opodeldoc 46G9, 4870, 5443, &e. C404 Optical Glass 2352 Optician's Cement 2229 Ormolu 3425 Orangeade 910 Orange Aniline Dye 25SG Orange Bitters ..." 831 Orangc-Blossom, Essence of... 9G1 Orange-Blossom Pomade 12.62 Orange-Chrome 2707 Orange-Color Bronzing 3784 Orange-Color Dye for Cottons. 159 Orange-Color Dye for Silks 271 Orange-Color Dye for "Wood. . .2835 Orange-Color Dye for Woolens. 203 Orange-Color Hair Oil 1234 Orange Enamels 2385 Orange Essence 951 Orange Essence, Artificial 1053 Orange Extract 1032 Orange Fire 2C89 Orange-Flower, Oil of 1227 Orange-Flower Pomade 12G3 Orange-Flo-wer Soap 572 Orange-Flower Syrup 1417 Orange-Flower "Water... 1009, 1071 1073. Orange Juice, Imitation 913 Orange-Marble for Books. 3116,3121 Orangc-Pcel, Essence of 951 Orangc-Peel Flavoring 6G7 Orangc-Pcel Syrup 1382 Orange Tint for Brass 3383 Orange Tonic 5122 Orange Syrup 1410 Ores, Flux for Reducing 3464 Ores, Lead, to test the Rich- ness of ' 3255 Ores, Iron, to test the Richness of 3259 Organic Matter, Test for 4395 Orgeat Syrup 137G, 1415 Orgeat Syrup, Imitation 1416 Origanum, Esscnti::! Oil cf 1465 Ornaments, Composition for. . .2202 Oroide 3431 Orris, Essence of 949 Orris Powder 1101 Orris Tooth-paste 1 321 Orris-Root Flavoring 669 Orris- Root, Fluid Extract cf. . .4579 Orris-Root Pomade 3 262 Osborne's Syrup 4657 Osgood's Indian Cholagoguc, Substitute for 396 Ostrich Feathers, to clean C55 Ottawa Root Beer &'2 Otto of Roses 975 Over-Shoes, eo mend C374 Oxacids 4034 Oxalatcs oDCO Oxalatcof Iron 4158 Oxalate of Nickel 4178 Oxalic Acid 3000 Oxalic Acid, Pure 3903 Oxalic Acid, to distinguish, from Epsom Salts 3904 Oxalic Acid, to obtain 3901 Ox-Gall for removing Spots 373 Ox-Gall for Washing 489 Ox-Gall Soap 552 Ox-Gall, to refine 441 Oxide, Carbonic 4064 Oxide, Nitric 3872 Oxide, Nitrous "872,4060 Oxide of Antimony 4130 Oxide of Barium 4235, 4236 Oxide of Bismuth 4136 Oxide of Chromium 2701 Oxide of Cobalt 4250 Oxide of Copper 4092, 4094, 4095 Oxide of Ethyl 4279 Oxide of Iron 4151, 4153, &c. Oxide of Iron, Testsfor Solutions of 4152,4157 Oxide of Lead 2744, 4 1 06 Oxide of Manganese 4173, 4255 Oxide of Mercury 4141, 4143 OX I PAP PAR PEA 591 Oxide of Nickel 4175, 4176 Oxide of Nitrogen 4060 Oxide of Silver 4078 Oxide of Tin 4119, &c. Oxide of Zinc 4117 Oxley's Essence of Ginger 4620 Oxygen 4034 Oxygen, to obtain 4033 Oxygen for Inhalation 4038 Oxygen, Tests for 4040 Oxygen, to obtain 4035, &c. Oxymel 4G90, &c. Oxymel of Squills 4092 Oxymel, Simple 4691 Oxymuriate of Lime 4245 Oxysulphuret of Antimony 5467 Pain-Killer....4881, 4882, 5410, 5867 Pains after Child-birth 5722 Paint, Fireproof 2772 Paint, Flexible, for Canvas 2765 Paint for Boat-bottoms 2771 Paint for Boilers 2774 Paint for Iron-work 2768 Paint for Old Houses 2773 Paint for Out-door Work. 2766, &c. Paint for the Skin 1107 Paint for Weatherboards 2771 Paint, Table for Mixing.. .2761, &c. Paint, to clean 435 Paint Stains, to remove from Clothes 339, 5 Saccharometer used by Brewers 858 Sachets, Vanilla Powder for. . .1105 Sachets, Violet Powder for 1106 Safflower-Lake Pigment 2683 Safranine Aniline Dye 2578 Sage-Green Dye for Cottons. .. 165 Sage Water, to distill.. ..1071, 1073 St. John Long's Liniment 5281 St. John's Bread Flavoring for Liquors 666 St. John's Wort, Oil of 4752 St. John's Wort, Tincture of. . .4501 Sal Ammoniac 4222 Sal Enixum 3470 Sal Soda 4208 Sal Volatile, Spirit of 1096 Salicine 4021 Salmon-Color Dye for Silks. 270, 313 Salt of Lemons, Essential 378 Salt of Tartar 4181 Salt of Wormwood 4181 Salt Rheum Ointment 4962 Salt Rheum, Remedy for 5482 Salt, Table 4215 SAL SCB Salt, to, Meat 1602, &c. Salt Water, to wash in 484 Saltpetre 4195 White Lights 2113 White Lights for Indoors 2120 White Lip Salve 1172 White Liquors, to blanch 705 White Lye for Washing 483 White Metal 3416, 3426 White, Pearl, for the Skin 1109 White Pigments 2693, &c White Precipitate 4140 White Satin Shoes, to clean . . 455 White Silk Blond and Lace, to wash 472 White Silk Stockings, to wash. 467 White Soap 591 White Spoon Metal 34 16 White Swelling 5775 White Swelling, Treatment of 5776 White Toilet Soap, Soft 606 White Varnish 2916 White Vitriol 41 14 White Vitriol, Antidote for... 5907 White Windsor Soap 558 White Wine, to fine 744 White, Zinc 2696 Whiten, to, Tallow 639 Whiten, to, Woolens 508 White's Gout Pills 5182 Whitewash 2793, &c. Whitewash, Fine, for Walls . . .2800 Whitewash, Fireproof 2801 Whitewash for Fences 2803 Whitewash for Out-door Use. 2796, 2802. Whitewash, to color 2798, 2807 Whitewash, to keep 2805 Whitewash, to mix 2804 Whitewash, to prevent, from Rub- bing off 2807 Whitewash, to, Smoky Walls.. 2806 Whitewash, Treasury Depart- ment 2797 Whitewash, Zinc 2799 Whitewashed Walls, to paint. .2764 Whitewashed Walls, to paper .2808 Whitewashed Walls, to prepare, for Painting 27K Whitlow, see FELON. Whitwith's Red Drops 5376 Whooping Cough Liniment 5257 Whooping Cough, Remedies for 5632, &c. Whooping Cough, Treatment of, 5632. Whortleberry Wine 72f Wicks, Candle, to improve 623 Wicks, Candle, to make 632 Wiegand's Syrup of Phosphate of Lime 4637 Wiegand's Tetter Ointment... 524 Wiegand's Tetter Salve 5242 Wild-Cherry Bitters 82 Wild-Cherry, Ferrated Elixir of 47U Wild-Cherry, Ferrated Wine of47U Wild-Cherry, Fluid Extract of 458 Wild-Cherry Syrup for Soda Wa- ter ]3 Wild-Cherry, Wine of ... 4714 Wilk's Refined Linseed Oil . . .287 Wilson's Hair Wash 1185 Wind, Force of the 612f Window Glass 234 WIN WOO Window Glass, to restore the Color of 6211 Window Sas-hes, Loose, to fas- ten 6395 Windows, Prismatic Crystals for 2365 Windows, to clean 6330, 6331 Windows, to keep, Open 6208 Windsor Soap 558, 559 Vine, Acidity in, to remedy . . 753 \Vine, Acidity in, to test 760 Wine, Antiferments for 764 iVine, Aromatic 5348 Wine, Artificially Colored, to detect 4404, 4406 Wine, Champagne 713, &c. Wine Color Dye for Silks 262 Wine Color Dye for Woolens . 210 Wine, Decayed, to restore 752 Wine, Decomposition in, to test 755 Wino, Domestic.. 713, &.C., 727, &c. Wine, Eschalot 1783 Wine, Febrifuge 5141 Wine. Filter for 714 Wine, Fretting in 757 Wine from Fresh Fruits.. 728, &c. Wine from Dried Fruits 729 Wine, Frontignac, Imitation.. 6418 6419. Wine, Home-made 727, &c. Wine, Isinglass for Fining 716 Wine, Mulled, with Eggs 927 Wine, Mustiness in, to remove 758 Wine, Nutritive 4723 Wine of Beef and Iron 4722 Wine of Calisaya 4711 Wine of Cinchonia 4710 Wine of Colchicum 5389 Wine of Iron 4705 Wine of Iron, Aromatic 4708 Wine of Iron, Bitter 4704, 4707 Wine of Pepsine 4721, 4726 Wine of Quinine 5199 Wine of Rennet 4713 Wine of Wild-cherry Bark 4714 Wine of Wild-cherry, Ferrated 47 15 Wine, Pricked, to restore 752 Wine Punch 711 Wine, Sour, to remedy 751, 754 Wine Stains, to remove... 360, 369 Wine, Sweating in 757 Wine, to decolor 748 Wine, to detect Lead in .4402, 4403 Wine, to detect Logwood in. . .4405 Wine, to fine 742, &c. Wine, to improve, by Electric- ity 726, 6295 Wine, to preserve 759, 761 Wine, to remedy Ropiness in. . 74t Wine, to ripen 75C Wine, Use of Glycerine in 725 Wintergreen Syrup 1407 Wire, Brass for 3348, 3374 Wire Rope, Weight of 613 r Wonderful Ointment 4895 Wood, Cement for Coating 2195 Wood, Cement to fill Cracks in 2244 Wood, Dyes for, to brighten and set 2828 Wood, Enameled,to polish 3015, &c Wood, Gold-size for Gilding on 3562 Wood, Implements for Gilding on 355' Wood, to bronze 3792, &c., 3825 Wood, to cement Emery to. . .6269 Wood, to cement Metal to 223 Wood, to coat with a Substance as hard as Stone 168C Wood, to detect, in Paper 1947 Wood, to dye 2824, &c Wood, to electrotype on 369. r Wood, to enamel 3010, &c Wood, to extract Essential Oil from 46 Wood, to gild on 3557,