LIBRARY OF THE UN!VERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. Class POULTRY ARCHITECTURE A Practical Guide for Construction of Poultry Houses^ Coops and Yards ONE HUNDRED ILLUSTRATIONS Compiled by GKORGK B. FISKE New York O R A X (1 K J U I) 1) COMPANY 1907 \ TY \ Copyright 1QO2 ~by Orange fudct Company CONTENTS Introduction CHAPTER I LOCATION AND METHODS Foundations and walls Glass in cold weather Roosts, etc Troughs Fountains Notes. CHAPTER II LOW-COST HOUSES Poultry house of G. R France Convenient house Cheap and labor-saving A handy hennery A house for layers Cheap houses and shelters. CHAPTER III BUILDINGS FOR COLONY SYSTEM House for mild climates H. H. Stoddard's poultry house Northern colony houses Rhode Island colony houses. CHAPTER IV HOMES FOR FARM POULTRY Grundy's prize house Farmers' poultry house Removable houses WyckofFs houses Portable coop House for Pacific coast House for south House with cloth run Good winter houses Maine henhouse Interior plans. j ( o *i- o *-> JV CONTENTS CHAPTER V BANK AND SOD STRUCTURES A Kansas sod house A Nebraska plan House in a sand bank Windproof structures A house of logs Bank wall houses. CHAPTER VI HIGH-GRADE PLANTS Well-made house in detail A business poultry plant A model house Practical poultry home. CHAPTER VII ADDITIONS AND EXTRAS Using a second storyAdding a scratching pen Shelter and lean-to Protected coop Run of sash and straw Cheap runs. CHAPTER VIII FOR INCUBATORS AND BROODERS A brooder plant Improved incubator house A brooder and growing house Brooder boxes Houses for separate brooders Brooder attachments. CHAPTER IX SPECIAL PURPOSE BUILDINGS Cold storage Turkey houses Improved duckhouses Pigeon lofts Combination house. CHAPTER X COOPS, YARDS AND FENCES Glass roof coops Hotbed coops Rat-proof Cool runs Ten- cent coops Orchard chicken coop Fattening pens Sum- mer and fall shelter Movable yards Hen-tight fence. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS FIG. PAGE i Up and Down and Crosswise Boarding . . 3 2 Sections of Foundations and Wall ... 4 3 Sash with Double Glass ... 7 4 Window for Cold Weather . .8 5 House for Mild Climates 10 6 House of Mr France ...... 12 7 Convenient House. End View and Front Elevation 13 8 Cheap and Labor-Saving. Cross Section . . 14 9 Cheap and Labor-Saving. Ground Floor . . 14 10 Handy Hennery ....... 16 II House for Layers ....... 19 12 Ten-Dollar Henhouse ...... 20 13 House and Shed ... ... 21 14 Interior of House with Shed ..... 21 15 A Small House ... .22 16 Colony House for Mild Climates .... 24 17 H. H. Stoddard's Colony House .... 26 18 Northern Colony House ... -3 19 Rhode Island Colony House . 3 2 20 Grundy's Poultry House and Yard . . 36 21 Farmers' Poultry House . . 3^ 22 House Easily Removed ... -4 23 Interior and Details ... 4 [ 24 End View of House and Details . 43 25 Movable Coop 45 26 An Oregon Plan 46 27 House for Warm Climates ... 48 28 House for One Hundred Fowls . 5 29 House with Cloth Run . . 5 1 30 L-Shaped House with Shed . - 5 2 31 Octagon House ... -53 32 Good Winter House 54 VI LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS FIG. PAGK 33 Good House with Interior Fixtures 55 34 Interior Contrivances 56 35 A Maine Henhouse 57 36 A Prairie Henhouse 60 37 Henhouse of Kansas Farmer ..... 61 38 A Nebraska Sod Hcruse ...... 62 39 House in a Sand Bank ...... 63 40 Windproof Structure ...... 65 41 A Log Chicken House . .66 42 A Bank Wall House 67 43 Interior of Bank Wall House ..... 67 44 Warm and Convenient Building .... 68 45 Well-Made House. Front and Rear Elevations 71 46 Well-Made House. End Elevation and Pen Run 72 47 Interior of Well-Made House 73 48 Section Through Pen ...... 74 49 Plan Showing Roosts ...... 75 50 Business Poultry House ..... 76 51 Front Elevation of Model House .... 79 52 Ground Plan of Model House .... 79 53 Side View and Floor System ... -79 54 Cross Section of Model House .... 79 55 Practical Poultry House . . . . .81 56 Runway to Second Story and Upper Room . . 82 57 House with Scratching Shed ..... 83 58 Shelter and Lean-to . . -84 59 Protected Coop . . . . . -85 60 Run of Sash and Straw ... .86 61 Protected Scratching Sheds . -87 62 Plan of Duck or Brooder Buildings ... 89 63 Double Roof Incubator House . . . .90 64 Banked Incubator Room ..... 91 65 Incubator House and Tank ..... 92 66 Double Brooder House ...... 93 67 Combination Brooder Building .... 94 68 Construction of Brooder Box ..... 95 69 Pipe Brooder House ...... 96 70 Houses for Separate Brooders . . 97 71 Oregon Brooder House . . .98 72 Houses for Winter Chicks 99 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Vll FIG. 1'AGK 73 Plan for Cold Storage House for Poultry . . 101 74 Buildings for Turkeys ...... 104 75 Improved Duckhouse ...... 107 76 Duckhouse and Shed . . . . . .107 77 Pigeon Loft and Interior ..... 108 78 House for Poultry and Pigeons . . . .109 79 Ground Plan for Combination House . . . 109 80 Glass-Roofed Coops no 81 Hotbed Run and Coops . . . in 82 Rat-Proof Coops and Run . . . . 112 83 Box and Barrel Coops . . . . . 115 84 Coops from Barrels and Crates . . . .116 85 A-Shaped Coops . . . 117 86 A-Shaped Coop and Frame . . . . .117 87 Coop from a Shoe Box . . . 1 18 88 A Packing Box Coop 119 89 Brood Coop with Run ...... 120 90 Light Box Coops ....... 120 91 Shelter and Portable Coop 121 92 Colony Shelter Coop 122 93 Orchard Coop 123 94 Fattening Boxes ..... .124 95 Coops for Sitting Hens ...... 124 96 Shipping and Exhibition Coops . . . .125 97 Yards for Three Flocks . 125 98 Yards for Two or Four Flocks . % . . . 126 99 Movable Poultry Yard 127 100 Making a Fence Chicken Proof . . . 128 INTRODUCTION The aim of this book is to give designs of sufficient variety to suit conditions everywhere. Few requests come more often to the office of a poultry editor than those asking designs and directions for some part of a poultry plant. The number and variety of such requirements is surprising. On the other hand, the very diversity of conditions which create the demand has also developed a supply. A multitude of houses and coops of differing styles have been designed by ingenious poultry keepers in accord with their experience and to meet local condi- tions. This little volume aims to bring together these two classes, the intending builders and those who have already built successfully. It is thought that the one hundred designs of such wide range of style, cost and adaptation will meet all requirements. Many of the designs originally appeared in Ameri- can Agriculturist weeklies in response to definite re- quests. The plans are carefully selected from a much larger number, and only those are given which are in successful use and which are adapted to the needs of practical poultry keepers ; pretentious or overorna- mental and elaborate affairs having been excluded. Wherever thought necessary or desirable, complete specifications of cost and construction have been in- cluded, so that the structures may be put up by anyone who can handle saw r and hammer. / Xy5>m* . / OP-TIT CHAPTER I LOCATION AND METHODS Poultry can be made to do well almost anywhere, just as cattle are made profitable on many farms not especially adapted for dairying. Management and system of housing should be varied to suit the location. Some good paying poultry farms are on stiff, heavy clay land, where water collects in pools after rain. Others just as profitable are on rather thin, light soil. Still, it is generally agreed that a good, free, well drained loam has certain advantages. The soil dries quickly after a rain, snow melts more quickly, it warms rapidly in the sun, every shower purifies it by carrying down a part of the impurities. On wet, heavy soil the fowls should have very wide range or the ground becomes muddy and unwholesome. Yet such land is a rich storehouse of plant food and affords the best of grass and insect diet even when drouth checks all fresh growth on other land. Heavy land is best suited to the colony or free range systems. Some of the largest and most profitable farms have been thus located and conducted, and the fowls maintained in perfect health and vigor. On rather poor land the fowls should also have wide range in order to find enough wild food. Good pasturage should be considered as important as for cattle. Rocky land is seldom made the location of large farms for poultry culture, since frequent cultivation and cropping is a part of most systems. Money saved 2 POULTRY ARCHITECTURE in buying rough or sandy land is soon lost many times over in decrease of net returns. If one may choose, let him buy good, clear, well drained loam, with a gradual southern slope and a forest protection at the north. But, as said before, most locations can be made satisfactory by suitable buildings and system of man- agement. The site of permanent buildings should be well drained naturally, but in a great majority of cases the conditions will be improved by at least heaping up with a horse scraper a little knoll of earth about the same in area as the house. Dryness is the great preventive of disease in poultry, and is even more important than warmth. A dry hen will stand a great deal of cold weather without much injury. Foundation and IV alls It pays to have a stone foundation reaching down to frost line, or from one to three feet below the surface and rising about one foot above th^, ground level. When covered with earth, a dry, dusty floor is ensured all winter, and rats are kept out even without a cement covering for the stone floor. Anything but a stone foundation is likely to take up more or less moisture, which will freeze and thaw, making the floor hard and cold, or muddy, neither state being suitable for scratching and for dust baths. Floors below ground are unsatisfactory in moist climates Dampness works in, spoils the scratching floor, stops laying and causes lameness, colds and bowel trouble. If the floor, however, has been raised by a rock filling, the outside of the building may be banked with earth to good advantage. Tight Foundations When small buildings are erected upon the farm, there is a temptation, in the interest of economy, to omit the tight stone foundation and put the building on posts. This leaves the building open beneath and permits the cold winds to reduce the LOCATION AND METHODS temperature. A plan is shown in the cut, Figure i, which obviates this. The walls are boarded up and down, using matched cedar boards, and allowing these to extend to the ground, as shown. A little soil is then banked up against the lower end, which is grassed over quickly, making a tight foundation that will last many years. If the framing is made to use crosswise board- ing, put on the latter as shown at right of Figure i, using a wide cedar board to extend from the sill down to the ground, and bank with a few inches of earth as before mentioned. The building can then be shingled or clapboarded. FIG I I UI' A XI) DOWN A XI) CROSSWISE UOARDIXG In placing a house, let it face the south or as nearly so as possible. It is cooler in summer and warmer in winter than one facing either east or west. The sun in summer during the hottest part of the day is nearly directly overhead and does not shine in so strongly in a south window. In winter, when low in the heavens, the south window catches more of the sun's rays. A Poultry House Floor of cement may well be pat- terned after the plan shown at left of Figure 2. The foundation is of loose stones to give drainage. The stones above are cemented. A layer of small stones beneath the cement serves as drainage. The sills of the house are bedded in cement to keep out vermin. This plan gives an exceedingly warm house, and the cement floor will keep out all rats and poultry enemies. A 4 POULTRY ARCHITECTURE cement floor is a cold affair in winter unless covered with plenty of dust and litter. A Very Warm Wall designed by G. C. Watson of the Pennsylvania experiment station is double on all sides and practically air tight, with a two-inch air space between the walls. A section plan is shown at right of Figure 2. A two by three scantling set edgewise forms the plate, and to this the boards of the side walls are nailed. These boards may be of rough lumber if economy in building is desired. If so, the inner board- ing should be nailed on first and covered with tarred building paper on the side that will come within the FIG 2 : SECTIONS OF FOUNDATIONS AND WALL hollow wall when the building is completed. This building paper is to be held in place with laths or strips of thin boards. If only small nails or tacks are used, the paper will tear around the nail heads when damp and will not stay in place. The cracks between the boards of the outside boarding may be covered with inexpensive battens if they are nailed at frequent intervals with small nails. Ordinary building lath will answer this purpose ad- mirably, and will last many years, although they are not so durable as heavier and more expensive strips. The tarred paper on the inside boarding and the battens on the outside make two walls, each impervious to LOCATION AND M KTILODS 5 wind, with an air space between them. Common build- ing paper may be used or stout paper of any kind. It has been left for the West Virginia experiment station to determine just how much difference there would be in egg production between similar flocks kept in warm and cold houses. Two houses, built exactly alike and situated side by side, were selected for the experiment, in each of which were placed twelve pul- lets. One house had previously been sheathed on the inside and covered with paper to make it perfectly tight. Both were boarded with matched siding and shingle roofs. The fowls were fed alike in each case. The morn- ing mash consisted of corn meal, ground middlings and ground oats, and at night whole grain was scat- tered in the litter. They also had fresh water, grit and bone and granulated bone. The experiment started November 24 and continued for five months. The fol- lowing table shows the number of eggs laid during each period of thirty days : RESULTS FROM COLD AND WARM HOUSES 12345 Total Warm house .... 87 130 138 120 154 629 Cold house 39 106 103 124 114 486 The experiment clearly indicates that it is impor- tant to build warm and substantial houses for winter egg production. In very cold climates special pains should be taken to make the roosting place warm. Combs are usually frozen during the night. Double walls battened with lath outside and lined with building paper make a warm roost room. With single-wall houses, double boarding on the north side is a protection. An outside shield of corn stalks or hay and litter is also effective. 6 POULTRY ARCHITECTURE Costly material is not needed for the poultry house. Often a discarded barn or other building can be bought cheap and the sound lumber used again. Others on farms can work up home grown timber. For city poulterers, large packing boxes bought at dry goods stores are a cheap source of lumber. Sometimes old street cars have been bought for a trifle and remodeled. Serviceable houses have been made from staves of old barrels as an outside covering. Old strips of carpet, oilcloth, wall paper or building paper may be utilized to some extent as mside protection. A coat of home-mixed paint improves the durabil- ity and appearance of a house enough to pay for its cost. Whitewash is much better than nothing, and will add years to the life of second-hand lumber. Shingles properly applied to a roof of fairly steep pitch are the best and warmest roofing, but a strip of building paper should be laid beneath to keep out cur- rents of cold air which work in between the shingles. Tin or iron is sometimes cheaper than wood, and for temporary structures, felting paper with a coat of paint will last about two years. An advantage of sheet mate- rials for roofing is that a steep pitch is not needed to carry off the water, but such materials are cold in winter and hard to repair when damaged. Glass in Cold }Vcathcr Amateur builders com- monly use too much glass, which makes a house un- naturally warm on sunny days, but extremely and dangerously cold by night and on stormy days. One window not over three feet square and about eighteen inches above the floor to each ten feet of house length is enough. Warmth is much increased by a shutter or curtain for night. Windows should be arranged to slide to oii side or be easily taken out during hot weather. LOCATION AND METHODS Double windows are sometimes used, but these are expensive, somewhat of a bother to put on and hard to keep clean. The cut, Figure 3, shows a single sash, double glazed, which a poultryman has recently described. The sash is made so that the glass can be set on both sides of the wooden bars, leaving a half inch or more of space between. This gives a double window and the cost is said to be not more than twenty-five cents extra per sash for the glass and the labor of setting. Those who are providing windows for new or re- FIG 3 : SASH WITH DOUBLE GLASS modeled poultry houses will do well to experiment with this plan. The glazing must be tight and carefully done to keep out all dirt and dust from the inner surfaces of the glass. Figure 4 shows a window partly double, making a convenient arrangement for ventilat- ing without draft, and securing greater warmth at night and on cloudy days. Roosts, Nests, Troughs, Fountains, etc, will not be treated at length in this volume. Roosts should be all 8 POULTRY ARCHITECTURE on a level, should be about two inches thick, rounded on the upper side, not over two feet from the floor, and removable. Troughs and Drinking Places should be protected by slats. Nests should be numerous, secluded and easily removed. Beware of too complicated inside arrangements when large numbers of fowls are kept for profit. Successful large farms are nearly always FIG 4: WINDOW FOR COLD WEATHER conducted on very simple plans, but with emphasis placed on the main needs of the fowls. Notes Dryness and warmth are the two main essentials in most climates. Everything inside should be removable, also doors and windows. The house should be made tight enough feo hold smoke when fumigated. LOCATION AND METHODS SOI) STKL'CTl'KKS 6 1 healthful, convenient, and large enough to accommo- date seventy-five to one hundred hens. In a bank sloping southwest 1 made an excavation twelve feet east and west by twenty-two feet north and south. At the southwest corner the excavation was on a level with the surface of the ground ; at the north side it was two and one-half feet deep. Around the edges I built a sod wall, making its upper edge five feet above the floor. I roofed the north half with boards and covered with tar paper. A border of sod was placed all around the edge, then the whole overlaid with six inches of gypsum taken from a pit near by. In the south half of the roof I put two hotbed sashes three FIG 3/ : HENHOUSE OF KANSAS FARMER by nine feet and covered the remainder of the space the same as the north side. In the walls were placed two glass windows and a door with glass in the upper part. In the north wall there is a window level with the roosts eighteen inches high and five feet long. It is used for ventilation in the summer. In winter it is covered with boards and banked with earth. The win- dows are hinged and covered with heavy wire netting. I have an extra lattice door for summer. The walls were given two coats of gypsum or poor man's plaster (very abundant in the southwest), and when dry a heavy whitewash was applied to fill all cracks. Roosts occupy the north half. The south 62 POULTRY ARCHITECTURE half under glass is reserved for nests and a feeding goound during stormy weather. The floor under the roosts is made of gypsum, cement and sand. [E. H. H., Kansas. Making a Nebraska Sod House Plow the sod one foot wide and four inches deep, and for a three- foot wall cut with spade into two-foot lengths. Build around the four sides (Figure 38), keeping the walls FIG 38 I A NEBRASKA SOD HOUSE as near the same hight as possible, so they will settle alike. Always lay the grassy side of the sod down. Smooth off with spade, filling cracks with the dirt, making a solid, compact wall. Lay the sod as you would brick, so there will be no running cracks. Leave places for door and windows slightly narrower than the frames, sod up till almost to the top, then fit in the frames tight, and over each put a board, one two by twelve by six inches will do, to support the weight of the sod above. [BANK AND SOD STRUCTURES Have the roof project a foot over the walls, so as to drain the water well off the top of the walls. Grooved boards, battened, make a good roof, although many prefer to cover the boards with tar felt and then a layer of sod. The only objection to this is that after two or three years the tar felt has to be renewed and new sod added. But it makes the warmest roof, and if carefully put on sheds water as well as a shingled roof. The small drawing shows window as it appears within, and indicates supports for roosts. 'i K\JS .^ VJ &8 FIG 39 : HOUSE IN A SAND BANK House in a Sand Bank A henhouse which com- bines warmth and cheapness can be made as follows, and as shown in the accompanying engraving, Figure 39 : Select a well-drained sand bank sloping to the south or southeast. Perhaps such a place is handy, from which quantities of sand or gravel have been taken until there is already dug a place large enough to put up just what is wanted a henhouse entirely in the sand, except the front. The only objectionable feature in a building of this kind is dampness, and from the start this must be provided against carefully by a thorough system of drainage, both above and below. 64 POULTRY ARCHITECTURE I/or this purpose tiles are almost indispensable. If the water can be kept away, the fowls will find the sand agreeable and the situation warm and healthful, while its exposure to the southern sun will give the layers a chance to bask and exercise all day and they will lay as well as during summer, provided their food be of the right kind and varied. On starting, draw from the woods enough seven-foot posts to set one every five feet across the space to be occupied by the front of the building. Or these may be placed in position standing squarely with sawed ends on flat stones im- bedded in the sand. On top of them spike a six-inch pole the length of the front of the building. Another row of posts of the seme length or per- haps one foot shorter should be placed further into the sand bank where the back of the building is to come, with a rider on top as mentioned for the plate on the first posts, or if an abundance of stone be handy, this row of posts can be replaced by a wall. Wood, how- ever, is preferable, because it doesn't gather and hold moisture so much, but is more expensive because less durable. Across these horizontal top poles run heavy, rough timbers six to ten inches in diameter. These will not need sawing, and can be rudely spiked or pinned to the poles. The entire structure must be heavily built, because it is to be roofed with sand and sod. Above the rafters, which are as well flat as any other way, should be laid a quantity of slabs or straight poles close together. On these may be thrown a layer of sweet fern or hardback brush, or even a mat of dried leaves, to be followed by two feet or more of sand. Over the sand spread at least six inches of good loam, and sod over this. It should be mounded enough to shed rain toler- ably well and will look on top like old-fashioned out- door cellars so common in the Hudson river valley. BANK AND SOD STRUCTTHES 0=1 The sides may be treated in the same manner with slabs and leaves and heavily banked with sand. The entire job can be sodded so that it will be far from ugly in appearance. The front should slope gently from the top of the posts to the ground, the bottom being about two feet from the posts. From this point the earth should rapidly descend so that all water may be car- ried away from the building. Two windows of good FIG 40: WINDPROOF STRUCTURE size, but not too large, and a door may be placed in front of this building, and roosts and nests within. A Wind proof Poultry House It is built of five pairs of two by four-inch scantling set two and one- half feet apart on either side of the ridgepole of the same stuff (Figure 40). These are covered with boards and the ends beveled. The structure is built over a pit two and one-half feet deep and banked over with the earth from the pit to the depth of two feet, 66 POULTRY ARCHITECTURE excepting the south end, which is furnished door made of two sashes of glass. The doorway is recessed and fitted with a solid door (outside of the glass door) to be closed in very cold weather at night. Ventilation is provided bv a piece of two-inch tin leader passing through the roof and the earth banking. It should be kept clear of snow. FIG 41 : A LOG CHICKEN HOUSE A roost runs the length of the building, eighteen inches above the floor, and the nest boxes are placed just above it. The house is nine feet wide, eight feet high and thirteen feet long, and holds twenty fowls. A Log Chicken House I cut all logs exactly the required length. The average size was about seven inches in diameter. I did all the work alone. First lay the sill logs and toenail on the corners, making the logs two by four by eight feet and two by six by BANK AND SOD STRUCTURES 07 eight feet (Figure 41). Spike these two together and brace from the inside so they will be perfectly plumb. Now start putting up the logs one side at a time, or build all the sides evenly as you go. Drive a spike into FIG 42: BANK WALL HOUSE FIG 43 I INTERIOR OF BANK WALL HOUSE your two by four and two by six-inch sills and into your logs as fast as you go, so as to hold them in place. You can put a round log in the corner six inches in diameter and eight feet long. After the house has been built, spike the two by four on this and also the plate logs. Peel the logs. [A. L. Lord, Wisconsin. 68 I'U U LTR V ARC II ITECT U RE A Bank Wall House This building (Figure 42) is ten by twenty feet with seven-foot posts in front, a three-foot wall and four-foot posts in the rear. The doors at the ends should be boarded up and entrance made to the two rooms from the hallway, which may be used as a hatching room. Still better, abolish all doors in front and enter through an end door. Figure 43 shows the interior arrangement. The hatching room may be used to store feed when not used for hatching. The hatching nests will be used for laying FIG 44 : WARM AND CONVENIENT BUILDING until a hen wishes to sit, when they may be closed to the roosting room and opened at the other end. These nests may be raised three inches from the ground. The extra nests are raised fifteen inches. Coops may be built under them to shut up sitters. Warm and Convenient The poultry house shown herewith (Figure. 44) is built into a bank and faces south. The wall up to the surface is of rough stone. There is no door at the east end to let in the cold, the door being on the south, where the roof is cut as for a dormer window. One enters and passes through to BANK AND SOD STRl'tTl'KKS (*) the back side of the house, where there is a walk behind the pens. Such a house can be made any length, keep- ing- the pens equal in number on each side of the door- way. This arrangement probably gives the warmest poultry house that can be built. CHAPTER VI HIGH-GRADE PLANTS Detailed specifications for a building carefully made according to architect's plans are frequently wanted. The houses of which descriptions are given are in actual use, and are both practical and orna- mental. The plans, in the hands of an intelligent work- man, will give highly satisfactory results. They are all business structures, including none of those miser- able affairs in which show takes the place of utility. A Well-Made House The house is made in sec- tions of sixteen-foot length, and in duplication could be extended or shortened, as desired, each section being suitable for flocks of ten to twenty-five fowls. The house comprises seven of these sixteen-foot sections, and by its construction can easily be enlarged or made smaller. Each section being precisely alike, the draw- ings are made on the basis of one section. (See Fig- ures 45 to 49 inclusive.) The foundation is of cedar posts planted as indi- cated by the plans, tops of posts being leveled off to receive the frame. The outside lumber is second qual- ity white pine; the inside lumber and framework are hemlock. The girder under center of building and the sills are four by six inches. Floor joists and roof rafters are two by six inches, plates are three by four inches, wall studs two by four inches, and partition studs two by three inches, all the above of hemlock. The house being made in sections of sixteen feet, it will be necessary to cut the sills, plates and girders HIGH-GRADE 1'LANTS /I to the length required, and half them together at joints, so that a saw could be worked between the floor joists, studding and rafters, between each section, and the building literally sawed apart at the end of any sec- tion, and removed if desired. Where the sixteen-foot sections join, the floor joists, wall studs and roof rafters are doubled, as indicated on the plans, and in case of the removal of any section, all that will be necessary to do is to stud up the end left open and enclose it. Sills are laid on edge and a one by two-inch furring strip nailed to the lower edge of same, on which the floor joists are notched and also well spiked to the FIG 45 : WELL-MADE IEOTSE. FRONT AND REAR ELEVATIONS sills. Floor joists, wall studs and roof rafters are placed on centers as figured on the plans, and all to be placed opposite each other. The front of the building is sheathed with one by nine and one-half-inch matched hemlock sheathing boards, laid diagonally with the smooth side in, nailed to each bearing. A one by two-inch strip is nailed on the lower edge of sill on which to fit the sheathing down closely to prevent cold air from running up between the cracks. The roof is sheathed with the same kind of boards, laid the smooth side down, with the joints properly broken on the rafters. The front of the building is covered with lieavy resin-sized 72 POULTRY ARCHITECTURE sheathing paper, well lapped and carefully tacked on. The roof is covered with gravel roofing, the roofing material being confined with an edging strip of one by two-inch pine laid fiat on the outer edge of the roof. All the outside walls of the building are cov- ered with one by six-inch "novelty siding" nailed to each bearing, with joints properly broken on bearings. The water table is a one by six-inch board with a beveled drip on top, having a lip worked on same to make the building water-tight. The corner boards and the board under the cor- nice molding were planted on, after the building was FIG 46: WELL-MADE HOUSE. END ELEVATION AND PEN RUN enclosed. The cornice molding is a four-inch crown molding worked to a stock pattern and put up as indicated on the drawings. The window and door openings have no trim, except at each end of the build- ing, where the trim was planted on afterward, same as the corner boards, etc. At the window and door openings, the "novelty siding" is cut on the studs three-fourths of an inch, and a half-inch flat bead is broken around the openings to cover up the end wood, leaving a rebate of three-fourths inch for the doors and sash. Doors are hung with iron T hinges. The floor is of one by six-inch matched hemlock. Windows and doors have beveled sills to match the HIGH-GRADE PLANTS 7^ drip on the water-table outside, and extending back to the line of the inside of the frame where they join the floor flush. The rear windows are of hotbed sash, glazed as shown in the drawings, and attached with screw fastenings to permit being removed in summer and replaced by wire netting. FIG 47: INTERIOR OF WELL-MADE HOUSE The outside doors are made of one by six-inch matched and center-beaded pine placed vertically and battened three times in their hight. The inside doors are made of unplaned hemlock, with one by six-inch stiles and rails, except bottom rail, which is eight inches wide. The panels are covered with wire net- ting. The small doors under the hotbed sash and between the different sections of the building are each 74 POULTRY ARCHITECTURE made of pine board, eleven inches square, battened twice on the inside with one by two-inch battens, and leaving an opening ten inches square, through which the fowls pass in and out. The partition along the alleyway, running the entire length of the house, is studded up as shown on the floor plan and has a six-inch rough hemlock board at the bottom and a two by three-inch scantling about two inches above the nest boxes, and the balance is covered with wire netting, except opposite the pens FIG 48: SECTION THROUGH PEN below the nest boxes, where masons' laths are placed flat way, about two inches apart, and nailed top and bottom to one by two-inch furring strips as shown on " section through pen." The partitions between the pens and the roosts are boarded up two feet high, with one by twelve-inch rough hemlock boards, and above are covered with wire netting. The partitions back of the roosts are boarded up with the same kind of boards to a hight of four feet, leaving a small door opening in center as HIGH-GRADE PLANTS 75 shown, ten inches square, the upper par^ covered with wire netting inside of the studs, to prevent the fowls from escaping when the hotbed sash is removed during the warm weather. The nest boxes are pine, one-half inch thick, and arranged to pull out like a drawer. Each box is separate and nailed together in the most inexpensive manner. Over the top of the nest boxes place a slant- ing hood eighteen inches wide, of rough hemlock boards battened on the under side, and put up as shown on "section through pen." The feed boxes are located FIG 49 : FLAX SHOWING ROOSTS in the alleyway opposite the pens, and are made of pine, one inch thick. Each box is separate. The roosts are made of one and one-fourth-inch spruce and are movable. The ends are four inches wide and notched out at top to hook over the scantling at the top of the boarded part of the partition back of the roosts. The bottom of the ends of the roosts is cut to fit the floor and a hole is bored through the same so that the roosts can be pinned to floor with wooden pins which can be easily removed and the roosts taken out and cleaned. The slats of roosts are two inches wide, set on edge and rounded on top with a jack plane and well nailed to the ends of the roosts. A spruce slat 76 POULTRY ARCHITECTURE one and one-fourth inches thick and two inches wide is placed on edge in front of the nest hoxes and a short distance from same, to enable the fowls to reach the nest boxes without' jumping directly into the boxes. The outside of the building is covered with dark green oil stain. Business Poultry Plant The houses built by an extensive poultryman, G. H. Pollard of Bristol county, Massachusetts, are simple, substantial and practical, and as cheap as a very good house can be made. Probably nothing better for the cost can be found. The photograph, Figure 50, gives a general idea of the FIG 50 : BUSINESS POULTRY HOUSE outside appearance. The inside is very simple, con- sisting of the roosting place and a scratching shed. The most striking feature of the inside arrangement is the roost, which is built with special attention to se- curing warmth at night. It is Mr Pollard's idea that if a laying hen is kept warm nights, she will not mind cold winter weather, but will keep right on laying, hence he does not pay much attention to glass windows or any other means of producing warmth by day, but the scratching shed is left open in pleasant weather and protected only by a cloth curtain on stormy days. In some of the sidehill houses the roosting house is entirely shut off at night and is banked on one side HIGll-r.RADE PLANTS 77 with earth and protected on the other sides by cement walls faced with roofing paper, as is the inside roof also. There is only one small window in front. This roosting place makes a very tight and warm arrange- ment in winter and when the hens leave it they are encouraged to keep themselves warm by scratching for grain thrown among the litter in the outside pen. Apart from the roosting pen, the house is built as cheaply as possible, banked in the rear nearly up to the roof and covered on the outside with roofing paper coated with tar, which is considered the cheapest and most satisfactory roofing material. Mr Pollard sup- plies details as follows : The largest house is ninety-six by thirteen and one-half feet and is divided into six pens thirteen and one-half by sixteen feet, which are subdivided into a roosting pen six by thirteen and one-half feet and an open-front scratching shed ten by thirteen and one- half feet. The house is very plainly built and is en- tirely devoid of fancy features in fixtures. The frame is of two by four spruce, on sills of three by four, set on chestnut posts. It is eight feet high in front, using sixteen-foot boards, hemlock, planed on one side and cut in two. The back is five feet four inches, using six-foot boards cut in three pieces to save waste and boarded up and down. The roof is covered with three- ply building felt, tarred, and the front, back and sides of the roosting pens are covered with two-ply felt. The cracks in the back of the scratching pens are battened to stop the drafts, and the front is covered with wire netting. A sash of four to six eight by twelve lights gives the roosting pen light. The perch platform is at the back, and twenty inches from the floor, which is of gravel filled in some six: inches higher than the outside level. There are 7 POULTRY ARCHITECTURE no other lurnishings, save a few nests made of soap or spice boxes, which cost three cents each. In the scratching sheds are small boxes of oyster shell and the water dishes. The floor is covered with meadow hay or straw and the hens scratch in this for the hard grain. The soft food is fed in troughs and is made up of variations of bran, meal, linseed meal and beef scrap. A house of this kind may be built by anyone a little handy with tools, and covers all the necessary features for the comfort and care of the hens. The doors open from the scratching sheds to the roosting rooms, and from one roosting room to the other. There is a scratching shed on each end of house and the roosting rooms adjoin each other, thus taking them away from the outside ends and gaining all the warmth possible from position. Of course this house could be extended to any length desired. The runs are on the back side of the house, as in winter the scratching shed furnishes open-air exercise, and in summer they get some shelter from the hot sun and warm south winds by living on the back side of the house. Another advantage gained comes from the possi- bility of walking along in front of the building and throwing the whole grains through the netting into the scratching sheds without the trouble of opening and shutting gates or doors. In this way a house of two hundred feet could be fed a dry feed in five to twenty minutes and the work well done. A Model Poultry House The building, shown in Figures 51 to 54 inclusive, is set on posts three feet above the ground, so the chickens can congregate underneath the main floor, giving to each section a ground floor twelve by sixteen feet. This double house is intended for fifty chickens, twenty-five in each section. The nests and feed boxes are accessible FIG 51 : FRONT ELEVATION OF MODEL IIOl'SK !'< V g'-O" FIG 52 : GROUND PLAN OF MODEL HOUSE CTt*. FIG 53 : SIDE VIEW AND FLOOR SYSTEM U U Li U FIG 54: CROSS SECTION OF MODEL HOUSE 80 POULTRY ARCHITECTURE from the hallway, and the droppings froftitfre perches are easily removed at the rear of the building: The cost of this building, finished in a workmanlike man- ner, is less than fifty dollars, including the purchase of the materials required. The bill of materials for a poultry house twelve by sixteen feet is as follows : Inches Feet Feet Hemlock, 30 pieces 3x 4 16 480 8 pieces 3x4 12 96 3 pieces 3x 8 12 75 8 pieces 2x 4 12 64 4 pieces 2x4 16 44 boards 1x12 16 800 stripping . . . 1x3 16 80 stripping 1x2 16 160 Total 1796 Siding, flooring and dressed boards 210 Roofing, three-ply felt (square feet) 275 Wire netting i, 350 Netting, staples, hinges, etc 20 Ibs Nails, assorted sizes 25 ' 10 locust posts, 6x6 feet 6 inches long The house built had partly second-hand material and so cost not more than twenty-five dollars. The front elevation ( Figure 51) shows the house with the yard on each side, while the ground plan (Figure 52) shows the general interior arrangement. A Practical Poultry Home The building shown in the illustration (Figure 55) is on one of the farms owned by Mr I. S. Long of Lebanon county, Pennsyl- vania. The first two houses are twelve by fourteen feet, one of which is used for laying hens. In the middle is a feed box where the hens are fed. The other house is a roosting place and is cleaned every three or four days. After cleaning, the roosts are sprinkled witii lime or coal ashes. The long, low shed is sixty- six feet long by twelve feet wide. During winter, the floor is covered deep with straw and chaff. Grain is thrown on this, and the hens are compelled to work to get out their feed. CHAPTER VII ADDITIONS AND EXTRAS Poultry could often be kept in the second story of a building if access to the ground could be secured. The cut (Figure 56) shows an easy grade up to an elevated door. The top and bottom boards are shown in place, but the entire front should be covered with slats. These can extend from the top board down to FIG 56: RUNWAY TO SECOND STORY AND UPPER ROOM the bcttom board. The grade is so easy that fowls will readily pass up or down. By this plan a building can often be made to hold two flocks instead of one. In a barn or stable loft one can fit up a warm and sunny room for early chicks, as shown at right of Fig- ure 56. Low windows are put in under the eaves, and light studding is set up as suggested, being nailed to the rafters for the roof of the chicken room. Simply lay boards in place for the top, and fill in the space above with hay. Board up in front, leaving openings for doors. Cover the floor with chaff, and put the hens ADDITIONS AND EXTRAS 3 and their chicks in here during February and March, and April, too, in the case of some states. The broods will do much better here than on the cold, wet ground. Adding a Scratching Pen The cut (Figure 57) shows the ordinary farm poultry house, to which an addition has been made in the form of a scratching shed, for use not only in the winter season, but also during rain storms at other times of year. Such an open shed is also most convenient as a roosting place for growing chickens during the sum- FIG 57 : HOUSE WITH SCRATCHING SHED mer. The front can have a frame, covered with cotton cloth, fitted to the opening and hinged at the top, to be let down at night in summer if desired, and on stormy days in winter, when snow would be likely to blow in if the front of the shed were left open. The cost of a shed built in this way is very small, as no floor is laid. Poultry House Additions The cut at the right of Figure 58 shows a way to utilize buildings already existing when constructing a poultry house. A hay barn or other structure having a long side toward the 84 POULTRY ARCHITECTURE south can be used as in the case shown here, where the high side of the poultry house has its boarding and framing already furnished free of cost. There is another great advantage in building poultry houses in this way ; the added warmth that is thus secured. In cold regions this is a matter of great importance, mak- ing this plan exceedingly useful. The open summer shed shown in Figure 58 at the left was recently seen in operation, and answering its purpose admirably. A "shed roof" was placed upon a corner of a board fence, the open side being toward the south. Here was protection for the fowls and cool quarters for the summer. A wire fence met the two FIG 58: SHELTER AND LEAN-TO sides of the board fence, making house and yard all in one inclosure. Extra summer colonies can thus easily and cheaply be kept. It is quite common to appropriate the sunny side of the barn, building out toward the south and eastward, for an aspect, which requires only a pitched roof and low front, with the ends well boarded and seam- battened, to render the inclosure quite comfortable, stormproof, and sufficiently spacious for winter uses. In summer this can be used for laying and roosting pur- poses. If kept clean and free from vermin, it answers very well, costs but a trifle, and may be of any size that the barn side will afford for the back of it. There should be a few sashes inserted in front or at the ends, ADDITIONS AND EXTRAS 05 where the sun can shine in, and this will make an eco- nomical house, as well as a useful one, in many cases. Preparing House for Winter Many farmers can- not afford to build a suitable house. There is the mate- rial about almost any farm for making the most open house one of the warmest. There is no expense attached to it except the labor. At each corner of the house (Figure 59) and about two feet out, set a post that will extend well above the eaves. If the coop is large enough to make it necessary, FIG 59: PROTECTED COOP other posts of a uniform hight and at the same distance from the walls of the coop can be set in the ground. The posts should not be more than from six to eight feet apart. Then about six inches from the ground staple a smooth wire to .the posts, and another about two feet above, and so on to the top of the posts, requir- ing five or six wires. Then fill in between the posts and wires and the coop with hay or straw. Small poles or pieces of waste boards can be woven in the wires to keep the hay in place. When the eaves are reached, some material that will lead off the water should be put 86 POULTRY ARCHITECTURE on top. Long slough grass has been found good for this. By setting a post each side of the door frame, and one to correspond with each in a line with the outside posts, and boarding up each side and fixing the top to be covered with hay, the door of the coop will be guarded from the cold. Of course an outside door of some sort will be necessary. The windows can be pro- vided for in the same way or a box of some rough FIG 6ot RUN OF SASH AND STRAW lumber be made and set in as the banking up is being done. Aside from a place reasonably warm to roost in, chickens, to do well, should have a warm, sunny place in which to exercise on warm days. Such a place can be made each side the coop in the shape of a lean-to facing the south. Set a line of posts the length desired to make the lean-to, and spike two by fours across the top, from one post to another, six to eight feet from the ADDITIONS AND EXTRAS oj ground. Then cut the poles of a length to make the desired pitch to the roof and lay one end over the two by fours (it is well to notch the under sides so there will be no danger of slipping), letting the other end rest on the ground. Lay fine-limbed brush across these, and upon this put the hay or straw- covering. In this place can be put up nests and a dust box fixed and filled for them to wallow in. The chickens, too, can be fed here. Cheap Winter Run Figure 60 shows an easy way to make a sunny winter run for poultry at little expense, either of money, time or labor. Some old window sash is set up for the front, and the top is covered with straw FIG 6l I PROTECTED SCRATCHING SHEDS or corn stalks. Make the top strong enough to hold the weight of the snow that may fall upon it. If there is no tight board fence at hand, the back can be boarded roughly and then banked right up to and over the top with straw or other material. Protected Scratching Sheds The idea of an open scratching shed for poultry has come to stay. Con- tinuous poultry houses, with shed roofs, are now built with two open scratching sheds side by side, then two pens, then two open sheds, and so on. A section show- ing two sheds, one each for the perns on either side, is 88 POULTRY ARCHITECTURE given in .Figure 61. The special point brought out here is the cotton cloth screen, or door, that closes the front of each shed in stormy, very cold or blustering weather. They are hinged at the top and are turned up to the ceiling when the weather is suitable. Drifting snows are kept out by putting down the screens, while the outside air can come in and the light also. An open shed in a snowy latitude without such a protection is almost useless during the greater part of the winter, unless one keeps shoveling snow. CHAPTER VIII FOR INCUBATORS AND BROODERS The buildings of a large establishment for artificial hatching and rearing should be arranged with especial reference to convenience. A few steps saved by a care- BREEDWG HOUS KILLING HOU3C. \ RESIDENCE. GROW/NO HOUSE. fttDHOVSE. m INCUBATO* CELLAR. BROODER HOUSE. FIG 62: PLAN OF DUCK OR BROODER BUILDINGS fill plan of building with due reference to location, be- comes an important factor of success when applied to the numberless dailv errands to and fro, Buildings to 9O POULTRY ARCHITECTURE be often visited, the incubator room, for instance, should be near the dwelling. All the buildings should be so arranged that the attendant can do the routine work by a systematic plan, with no waste of time or effort. The illustration (Figure 62) shows the actual arrangement of a large plant to which allusion is made in Bulletin 64 of the United States Department of Agri- culture. Its convenience and compactness are seen at a glance. Improved Incubator House Figure 63 shows a plan for obviating the inconvenience of rising tem- perature in the incubator house when the sun is shin- FIG 63: DOUBLE ROOF INCUBATOR HOUSE ing, especially late in the spring or in the summer. Then it is difficult to keep a uniform heat in the ma- chines, as the house becomes overheated from the effect of the sun upon the roof. A simple way out of the difficulty is to put on an additional roof, leaving an air space between the two. The inner roof can be covered with cheap boar.ds and roofing paper, with lath battens. The outer may have shingles over a layer of building paper. Banked Incubator Room In Figure 64 is shown an incubator room that is built on the surface of the FOR ixcrn.vroks AND BROODKRS 91 ground, and yet is surrounded by earth, banked up against its stone walls. It is banked on three sides, leaving one side unbanked for entrance door and a window. The incubator room need not be large, so the labor of banking it in this way will not be great. Many are not able to secure a suitable place underground for a cellar, and for such the above plan will prove advan- tageous. A Successful Incubator House, illustrated in Fig- ure 65, is in use by an extensive woman poultry farmer, Mrs J. Fairbank, Oregon. It is a combination incu- bator cellar, water tank and windmill tower. The two- FIG 64: BANKED INCUBATOR ROOM story building is fourteen by sixteen feet, with a one thousand-chick capacity hatching cellar, a tank in the second story which holds the water supply for the whole farm, and a windmill on the roof to perform all the pumping. A double brooder house is shown in Figure 66, with walk in the center and pens on either side, and with heater at the end. Many prefer this plan to the single brooder house, as the care and attention required for the youngsters is much less and the cost of heating is reduced, one heater being sufficient for both lines of pipes. Then, again, this latter plan shortens the length 92 POULTRY ARCHITECTURE of the building by one-half and makes the work more concentrated. Combined Brooder and Growing House Figure 67 shows a successful plan for a combination building. The rows of brooder pens are at the right, while the large pens and yards are at the left. In a duck plant the right half of the buildings is used for the ducklings FIG 65 I INCUBATOR HOUSE AND TANK as soon as they are old enough to endure a lower tem- perature than that of the brooders. In a broiler plant, the use of the buildings may be similar, or the large pens may be used for laying stock. The heater and feed room are between the two parts of the building, the heater being in a pit beneath the feed room. Pipes run into both parts of the build- FOR INCUBATORS AND BROODERS Q3 ing 1 , as shown by the dotted lines. The pipes in the right half of the building- are raised two or three feet from the floor, and a lower temperature is maintained as compared with the brooders. The brooder box (Figure 68) is next to the pas- sageway, or walk, on each side, and runs the entire length of the building. This box is thirty inches wide and eight inches high; the sides are seven inches high and nailed securely ; the top of the cover is nailed across with cleats to make it substantial, aad the cover has an LLLLJdihl'JJ-l I II II m- FIG 66 : DOUBLE BROODER HOUSE inch strip nailed underneath in front and back to keep it in position. These strips r.est against the seven-inch sides and make the brooder snug" and tight when closed. The heating pipes are directly beneath the cover and are two-inch pipes, flow and return. Some prefer one-inch pipes, using two flows and two returns. When three pipes are used they should be about eight inches apart from center to center. These pip.es rest on the partition boards of the pens. The front of the brooder, leading into the pens, is cut out in the center about four inches 94 POULTRY ARCHITECTURE deep and four feet long, while the ends and the other side are solid, being seven inches high. The construc- tion of the brooder is clearly shown in b with cover removed, while c shows cover. The heater is located at the end of building. A pipe brooder house, well liked at one of the eastern experiment stations, is shown in the combina- tion drawing (Figure 69), in which dimensions and interior construction are indicated. The hot water sys- tem is used, but the small lamp brooders may be used 1 R (J N S f E N 5 y p N S \ P N 5 i * ! MXKR, .-,!:.- =-=-, ; p J- " e N 0\ ! g V N S FIG 67: COMBINATION BROODER BUILDING if preferred. The heating pipes extend the length of the building under the covers, b b b. Through exit, c, the chicks reach a twenty-foot run inclosed with two- foot board and netting above. One of these houses will accommodate about five hundred chicks while small. Houses for Single Brooders These little build- ings, described by C. E. Matteson of Wisconsin, are scattered over his place one hundred and fifty feet apart, so that one colony will not interfere with the other at feeding time, and each flock will go to its own house at night. (See building at left of Figure 70.) FIG 68 : CONSTRUCTION OF BROODER BOX 90 POULTRY ARCHITECTURE The dimensions are six by six feet, with shed roof rive feet high at front or south side and three feet high on north. Sills are two by six, and the house is studded with two by four, two feet on center, and sided with six-inch drop siding. The front has a window nine by twelve feet, set eight inches above the sill, so as to leave place for the chicks to get to the yard, and the window should be arranged to slide wide open, making a kind of shed of it when weather is warm. The door is two and one- half by four feet, placed on east side so you can enter FIG 69: PIPE BROODER HOUSE the building without first climbing into the yard. The roof is of dressed and matched fencing, then shingled, making it almost windproof. The interior shows a brooder, a, set therein. These brooders are hot air, thirty-six inches square, sunk in the ground floor of these houses about four inches. The dirt that is taken for the excavation is filled in around the brooder, which gives the chicks a nice earth floor to scratch and ruffle in when the weather will not let them go out. As they grow older, say when four weeks old, they are given full liberty in pleasant weather. FOR INCUBATORS AND BROODERS 97 Figure 70, at the right hand, shows a house built, against a bank, that can be twelve feet or more in length. The cross section below shows how the home- made brooder is located with respect to the run for the chicks. Set on legs as it is, the attendant does not have to stoop over his work, and with the raised run for the chicks they are brought on a level with the brooder, so they can easily run in and out. This run is coated with gravel and cemented. The brooder is three feet square. Allo\v six feet for each FIG 70 : HOUSES FOR SEPARATE BROODERS brooder and pen and you have three feet at the end of each brooder sufficient space to give access to each pen, which can be cleaned from the walk with a short- handled hoe or rake. The house is twelve feet wide, the walk or alley six and the run six. The top of the brooder is hinged, to give easy access, and the partition in front of the runs is tight, to keep in the warmth that is produced by the sunshine coming in at the window. If a bank of earth is not at hand, earth can be heaped up to form a bench on which to locate the runs. Such 90 POULTRY ARCHITECTURE a bank of earth makes the interior of the building much warmer. Both these houses are adapted for the lamp and drum style brooder shown in the diagram at the left. Later in the season may be substituted the cold brooder shown at the upper left hand corner of Figure 70. Woolen cloth, an old blanket or some sort of heavy material, is tacked loosely at the sides and in a few OREGON BROODER HOUSE places through the center, in such a way that the loose folds will hang down nearly to the bottom of the brooder. This cloth should be of several thicknesses, or padded if need be. It should hang lower near the sides than at the center. It should also be constructed in such a way that it can be raised as the chicks grow in size. This can be done easily. The cloth can be fastened to a frame made of inch boards and of a size 1'UK INCUBATORS AND BROODERS 99 that will just fit snugly inside the brooder. At each corner of the box put in pieces of two by four studding, a, eight inches high, in which holes have been bored an inch apart from the top to within four inches of the bottom. Saw out the corners of the frame to fit around these and insert a pin, c, in the hole that will hold it at the desired hight. A strip, b, nailed to the end pieces of the frame and reaching through the mid- dle, will serve as a fastening to tack the cloth to in the center. Brooder House A building as shown in Figure 71 has been found satisfactory by an Oregon grower. The floors of the warm hovers are covered two inches deep with sand. They are warmed with two one and =*^ HOUSES EOR WINTER CHICKS one-half-inch pipes, a a, overhead. The hovers are thirty inches \vide, four feet long, one foot deep, ar- ranged in two rows running lengthwise with a walk, b, between. Through a small opening chicks enter a four by four-foot runway, e c, and may thence pass outdoors to runways four feet wide and thirty feet long. A Brooder Attachment In early spring the brooder chicks can be let out upon the ground and yet be protected from the cold winds by the attachment shown at the left of Figure 72. A box without top or bottom is hooked to the side of the brooder, an opening being cut in the side where the door of the brooder comes. The top of the attachment is covered with coarse cotton cloth, or a sash may be used. The cloth lOO POULTRY ARCHITECTURE lets in fresh air and the sun's rays, but protects the chicks from the cold winds. Poultry House for Early Chicks This house, as in Figure 72, at the right of the illustration, is used by Mrs J. Wilson of Iowa for raising winter chicks. In it she can put three hens with about forty chicks. Take a box about six feet long, two and one-half feet wide, two and one-half feet high in front, with sloping roof, cover with tarred paper and have a sliding window in front near the top, as shown. Dig a hole in the ground just the size of the box, as for a hotbed. Fill it with horse manure, cover with dry earth and over this put soft straw, chaff and hayseed from the barn floor. Place the box over this and put the hens and chicks in. Throw an old carpet over all and they are easily cared for. In a home like this it is surprising how fast they will grow. A small door near the bottom may be opened on warm days to let them have a little sun, but they will soon scamper back. CHAPTER IX SPECIAL PURPOSE BUILDINGS Cold Storage of Poultry Products The only really satisfactory means for keeping eggs and poultry meat is cold storage. The system is working a revolu- tion in the trade ; tending to equalize prices and increase demand. In course of time the difference between spring and winter prices will no doubt be far less than at present. Meanwhile there is a good profit in holding ICC ROOM \ FlG 73 : PLAN OF COLD STORAGE HOUSE FOR POULTRY stored eggs. A commission man and buyer lately re- marked that farmers could secure this profit themselves by putting up little storage plants on the plan of co- operative creameries, and selling the product at the right season to retail customers. He expressed the opinion that a town of one thousand or more people would furnish ample scope for such an enterprise and 102 POULTRY ARCHITECTURE the plant could be used a part of the time for storage of fruit. The design given herewith (Figure 73) is for storage with ice, is not expensive, and has been success- fully used by a Michigan poultry farmer. The ice room is eight by twelve feet in the clear, being started with a six by six-inch sill laid in a trench three inches deep. After the sills are laid in the ground dirt is pressed in solidly, so as to leave no opportunity for air to enter in at the bottom a very important point. The studding of the inner room is two by eight- inch lumber, twelve feet long, set twenty-four inches from center to center, and having a plate of the same size firmly spiked to the top, the inside of the studs being sheathed with rough boards clear to the top of the plate and around the bottom except at a, where one stud has been left out, leaving an opening through which the ice is passed in filling the house. This open- ing is stopped with boards and simply laid in as the house is filled. The top of the ice should be no higher than the plate, and be covered twelve or eighteen inches deep with hay or straw, well trodden down. The outer wall is of two by four-inch studding, twelve feet long, the sill set in the ground the same as for the inner room, but carefully sheathed on both sides with good, tight boards, and the space between filled with sawdust clear to the plate. The outside is finished with drop siding, having a thickness of paper between that and the boards. At B the inner and outer sheathing boards project one and one-half inches beyond the studs, and other loose boards are cut one and one-half inches shorter than the space between the studs. Then, as the ice is fitted in, these shorter boards are laid up and the space between filled with sawdust, this opening being only to fill the ice room. About thirty-five tons of ice can be put in this house, which SPECIAL PURPOSE BUILDINGS 103 will be sufficient to last until cutting time another year. The entrance door is made double ; that is, a sort of vestibule is built out so that the door can be closed behind when going in or coming out, thus avoiding warm currents of air in the cooling room. The four- foot space around the house is floored over six inches above the ground sill, and provides ample room for butter, meat, poultry or eggs, though eggs must not be kept at a lower temperature than forty degrees above zero. If desired, another story may be added by placing joists across the space eight feet from the lower floor. This gives a larger amount of room for storing onions, etc. The roof is hipped and provided with a ventilator having lower slats arranged to open or close at will. They should never be tightly closed, as fresh air should always have more or less access to the top of the ice. A six by six-inch timber is fastened at one end under the hip rafter, projecting over the outer wall line and provided with a stout eye-bolt to which the pulley is caught in filling the ice room. This timber is braced down to the plate with sticks of the same size. The roof is shingled, and the cornice is made with eight eight by eight-inch holes in the soffit, each being provided with a board to close and open, thus perfect- ing the ventilating arrangement. Windows are in both sides, tightly fitted with two double sash for each eight, and are set in the sides, so as to throw light in the end passages. A box drain should be laid in the ground, made of two by eight-inch stuff, and should project three or four feet beyond the outside wall, and at each end a small pit should be dug, filled nearly to the top with small stone, with an armful of straw next, and dirt filled in, well rammed down. No flooring will be re- quired in the inner room, as the ice can be laid on the ground. 104 POULTRY ARCHITECTURE An Ontario Turkey House My turkeys have a large range, and as foxes are numerous in this vicinity a great many of the finest birds were killed last year. In June I had a house built like the accompanying illus- tration (Figure 74, at the upper half of the illustration) FIG 74: BUILDINGS FOR TURKEYS to secure the flock at night, to provide a feeding place for the young birds during the day and to prevent the old birds from eating with them. The building is twelve feet square, ten feet high in front and eight feet at the back. The foundation con- SPECIAL PURPOSE BUILDINGS 105 sists of tamarack planks spiked solidly together and four posts are set in at the corners. The sides are of fine slats, four inches wide, nailed an inch apart so as to provide light and air within. The roof is made of boards put on to exclude the rain. On one side is a door, a, six by three feet, fastened by hooks on the outside and inside. On the front there is an opening, b, and a door, c. On the ground the opening, b, is four inches high and five feet long and permits the ingress and egress of the young birds only. This is closed by means of a drop board. The hanging door, c, is twelve feet long, two feet wide and two feet from the ground, is formed of boards like the sides, is fastened by hooks and is attached to the front by strong hinges. Inside the house are drinking and feeding troughs for the young birds, clean straw at one side and three tiers of roosts, the first very low, the second midway and the third of strong poles as near the top as possible. In the morning I dropped the hanging door to let out the old birds, fed them outside, and closed the door. Went in at the side door, fastened it, fed and watered the young birds and left them until the dew was off the grass. By raising the board the young ones could come out to the old ones. Three times a day they came to be fed, the board being utilized to shut them in until all were fed. At night the young ones remained in and by dropping the hanging door the old hens flew in. When the turkeys grew too large for the opening, b, I fed them just outside the house and they entered by means of both doors, which were fastened before dark. [Mrs Edwin Colquhoun, Ontario. Another Turkey House Most people who have had experience with turkeys know that these birds prefer to roost on the ridgepole of a building rather than under it, and that, too, in exceptionally cold 106 POULTRY ARCHITECTURE weather. The turkey does not like close quarters, and thrives best where it is given plenty of air. In many sections of the country where the winters are not too severe, the house shown in Figure 74, at the lower part of the illustration, will be found an excel- lent one for turkeys in winter, while in the northern regions, even, such a building will be found most useful as a roosting place for both chickens and poults during the late summer and fall, since they need pro- tection from rain and prowling animals, but plenty of pure air to secure the finest growth. This need of pure air at night is not properly appreciated by most persons who attempt to raise chickens. Improved Duck Houses Ducks are easily the most profitable of all poultry, if the flesh product simply is considered, while as a layer of eggs the Pekin duck is exceedingly profitable. There can be no doubt that it would be wise for more farmers to keep a flock of breeding and laying ducks, and for this purpose there is no better breed than the large, white Pekin. As ducks roost on the floor, only low quarters are needed. A lo\v, shed-roofed affair can be put onto the side of the barn or other farm building, in the manner shown in Figure 75, three feet of hight being sufficient. Let the pen open into the large building, the partition between being hinged at the top, so that by raising it one can clean out the pen and put in dry bedding. One can thus build duck quarters very inexpensively. Figure 76 shows a duckhouse with shed and an inclosed roost room. It is single walled and built in the cheapest manner. In Building a Dove Cote in a barn for six pairs, they should have at least twelve feet square of floor and eight feet high. The more space the better, unless the pigeons are to have the freedom of the yard. The boxes should be at least eight in number, each box to SPECIAL PURPOSE BUILDINGS 107 be double, completely divided so a young pigeon cannot go from one to the other without flying. This allows the mother to lay and hatch a second set of eggs before the first are able to look after themselves. These boxes must be set on the top of tinned posts or fixed in some way so that the rats cannot reach the nests, FIG 75 : IMPROVED DUCKHOUSE FIG 76: DUCKHOUSE AND SHED for rats are sure to destroy the eggs or young birds in the nest. [A. H. Streeter, Hampshire County, Massachusetts. Making a Pigeon Loft Every boy on the farm should have a flock of pigeons, be the variety Fan- tails, Homers, Turbits or Jacobins. They are among the most satisfactory pets that one can have, their pretty loS PO U LTk V A KC II 1TECT URE ways and beautiful forms and plumage making them most desirable companions. A loft for the accom- modation of pigeons can be made very easily in the roof chamber of a shed or stable. The illustrations (Figure 77) show inside and outside arrangement for such a loft. With most pigeons there must be a wire inclosure outside the window, else cats will make havoc with the birds, many varieties not being very quick upon the wing. A part of the inside partition is cut away in the illustration to show the interior arrange- FIG 77 : PIGEON LOFT AND INTERIOR merit. Such a loft utilizes waste space and requires no great expense for lumber. A boy should be able to fit it up himself. Combined Poultry and Pigeon House A poultry house with a loft especially fitted up for the accommo- dation of pigeons is shown in the accompanying illus- trations (Figures 78, 79), from sketches by Webb Donnell. The poultry quarters have an addition fitted with wire netting in front in summer, as seen in Figure 78, and windows in winter, which serves as a scratch- ing and dusting room, communication being had with it from the main poultry room. The diagram, Figure 79, shows the inside arrangement when the building is used for two breeds. Such an arrangement secures exceedingly warm roosting places for both flocks, as SPECIAL PURPOSE r.UILDIXGS IO9 the recesses occupied by the roosts can be shut off from the main room to some extent by placing partitions in front of the roosts, extending from the ceiling, but not HOUSE FOR POULTRY AND PIGEONS FIG 79: GROUND PLAN FOR COMBINATION HOUSE reaching to the floor. The warm air from the bodies of the fowls is thus kept around and above the birds while on their roosts. CHAPTER X COOPS,, YARDS AND FENCES Compared with the houses, the coops are small and temporary affairs, being" used often only a few months of the year. Present use rather than appear- ance or durability is usually considered. In some cases the. coop item is so far overlooked that it becomes the weak feature of the plant, and serious losses occur from overcrowding the young stock or failing to pro- FIG 8OI GLASS-ROOFED COOPS tect them against pests ; neglecting to separate fowls ill with contagious diseases ; lack of accommodations for sitters, fattening fowls, extra males or show birds. There is little excuse for such conditions; materials good for coops being plenty and cheap, while on account of the limited size of such structures they may be nailed together any time in the workshop or shed. COOPS, YARDS AND KKNCES III A Coop for Early Chicks The two upper draw- ings of Figure 80 show a desirable coop for very early chickens. The coop is long and sloping and has a hot- bed sash hinged to the top. The higher half of the coop has a tight bottom with slats at its outer edge. There is no bottom to the rest of the coop, and the lower end has a hinged door, and, is also covered with one-inch mesh of wire netting. When very cold the door can be shut up tight and FIG 8l : HOTBED RUN AND COOPS the chicks will have a warm run on the ground outside the slats. When it is warmer, the end door can be dropped, giving a protected run, but plenty of fresh air. The hen can be let out into this run when desired. A cloth can be thrown over the glass at night when the \veather is cold. The drawing in the lower right-hand corner of Figure 80 shows a house with glass run for winter chicks. 112 POULTRY ARCHITECTURE The lower left-hand drawing in Figure 80 shows a hotbed that is built against the south side of the poultry house, serving all through the winter as a sunny scratching place for the fowls. These are shut out at the approach of spring and the hotbed started. About the time the plants are started the fowls will be getting out upon the ground, while all through the deep snows of winter they will have an exceedingly sunny space to run in. Make the hotbed large enough to give sufficient scratching space. The room can well be utilized with early plants in the spring. FIG 82: RAT-PROOF COOPS AND RUX Figure 81 shows another coop on the hotbed plan Several brood hens are kept in boxes or A coops con- necting with the sashed runs, and the chickens may run together if desired, although it is better to have them divided at first till they become used to brooding in flocks of even number. Rat-Proof Coops mid Run The first has a pro- jecting top, as shown in the upper left of Figure 82, to keep out the heat of the sun and the rain. It has a netting front to give good ventilation, while keeping COOPS, YARDS AND FEXCKS 113 out enemies at night. It has a small board below that can be removed during the day so the chicks can run out and in, while the hen will be confined. The coop can be cleaned in an instant. All these advantages will commend this coop to those who have had experience with the coops ordinarily seen. Cool Run for Chicks They appreciate a bit of shade during midday and should not be forced to find it in the coop, which too often is almost air-tight. Cut a hoop in two equal lengths and to a, b and c, as at the right of the drawing previously described in Figure 82, each tack either end of three pieces of lath or other light wood. Over this framework stretch cotton cloth, d, or bagging, and tack firmly in pace. The open ends admit a free current of air, while the cover keeps off direct sun rays. The illustration at the lower left of Figure 82 gives an idea for the construction of a neat, handy and healthy coop. It can be made of any size. For one or two broods of chickens, about four feet square and two feet high in front and eighteen inches high in the rear is a convenient size. It should be made with a tight floor to prevent the entrance of rats, skunks, etc, and also to aid in keeping clean. The entrance should have two doors, one of them merely a frame over which is stretched wire netting with meshes fine enough to exclude all prowlers of the night. This is to be used in the summer time when it is too hot to shut the coops with the tight doors. The other door can be made to shut over the wire door by hinging at the top. The wire door is made to slide in from the top or end. With the coop tightly closed there will not be sufficient ventilation. A ventilator made of three or four-inch boards nailed into a box about two and one-half feet long, set in the middle of the coop roof and extending down inside to within a couple of 114 POULTRY ARCHITECTURE inches of the bottom, will suffice. At the rear, to aid in cleaning, should be a door about eight inches wide extending the whole length of the coop at the bottom. By lifting this and using a small hoe-like tool, a, made by taking a block four by eight inches and boring a hole in the center and putting in a handle about two feet long, the job of cleaning is a short and easy one. All coops should be painted and the roof made tight enough to prevent leaking. These coops are not too heavy to be carried to any place where it is desirable. The illustration shows the coop with one door raised, showing the wire netting. Rat-Proof Coops The plan, Figure 82, at the lower right-hand corner, shows how one is built. The lower space in front is protected with a sliding frame, covered with eighteen-inch galvanized heavy wire net- ting. The dot is a small hole with a large wire nail through the frame. The two dots above are holes for fastening the screen frame so the chicks can run, and confine the hen, or the hen can run, as one wishes. The legs are about three inches high, so there is no chance for rats to work underneath, and the plan also prevents loss by possible drowning in a heavy shower. With the frame down at night, cats, rats or others pests are kept out. Hay Shed Coop My chicken coops are made be- neath a western hay shed, which is built by setting posts about ten feet apart, placing stringers on top and laying poles across, upon which the hay is stacked. The entire shed or corral is inclosed by boarding -up and down with slabs, and is divided into five sections, occupying the space of twenty feet square for each coop or pen. All the roosts are in the center coop and are made of small green oak poles reaching up to within two feet of the roof, which is eight feet from the ground. Instead of having a single slant with COOPS, YARDS AND FENCES 115 poles nailed on every two feet, I have the roosts in the shape of a wide hay rack or double feed stall, slanting both ways, with poles every two feet, and some between the top perches. In this way I get all the young chicks to their perches long before the mothers leave them, and give plenty of room for all to roost on the top poles. [J. L. Shoemaker, Utah. Ten-Cent Coops A chicken coop that will last for ten years at a cost of ten cents ! The cut ( Figure 83) explains itself better than words can do. A soap, starch or canned fruit box of the right size can usually be procured for from five to ten cents (fre- quently at the former price if a quantity are engaged), FIG 83 : BOX AND BARREL COOPS and this, with a few bits of lath for the door, which is hung on leather hinges, and a board for an awning completes the requisites. Triangular pieces of board must be nailed to the awning, which is also attached by leather hinges. When more light or sun is needed by the brood, simply turn the shed roof over onto the top of the coop. By a little extra work the board can be made to serve the purpose of shutting in the chickens at night by dispensing with' wooden supports and using iron hooks to keep the shed in place. In this case ventilation must be provided. This coop can be made in a few minutes and is better than many more costly ones. It will be improved by covering the top with building paper, which must be painted each year. n6 POULTRY ARCHITECTURE Another coop just as cheap may be made from a barrel sawed in two lengthwise (Figure 83). Before sawing nail staves to hoops. A coop from a whole barrel slatted in front is shown in Figure 84. Also a peach crate used as a coop. A cheap coop can be made from an apple barrel with the one end covered with lath and a door to admit of cleaning and placing feed for the brood and the old hen. At night and on wet days a piece of oil- cloth can be arranged to shelter the front and be FIG 84 : COOPS FROM BARRELS AND CRATES thrown back when not in use. It can be easily re- moved from one place to another, admitting of fresh surroundings as often as deemed necessary. It is raised slightly from the ground by means of blocks on either side to avoid the least dampness. The inside of the barrel should be covered with fresh straw in a moderate quantity. Wire netting in place of lath can also be used and is just as good for the front, possibly better. The entrance board can be made by cutting the COOPS, YARDS AND FENCES 117 front block under the barrel, slanting" a.nd placing cleats on it, to allow the chicks to get in and out easily. A-Shapcd Coops Several forms of these very simple and cheap coops for young chicks are shown in FIG 85 : A-SHAPED COOPS Figure 85. Beginning at the upper left corner, the first coop is made by dividing a good-sized box by cutting through two corners, making two coops of one box. The roof should be closely battened or covered with painted sheathing paper. The coop adjoining to FIG 86: A-SIIAPED COOI AND FRAME the right has its roof lapped clapboard fashion, and a convenient drop door of slats. At the lower left corner is a style common in its main features on many large establishments. It is cheap, warm, dry, and can Il8 POULTRY ARCHITECTURE easily be made rat-proof. The fourth is good where hen and chickens run together. The house part is quickly made from an old box, and may be fastened to the yard or simply moved close against it. The yard is of inch mesh a foot high, but the top may be of two- inch mesh. Another simple A coop appears in Figure 86. At the right of this illustration is shown a frame which may be covered with boards or paper and slatted in front or protected with netting. FIG 87 : COOP FROM A SHOE BOX Bo.r Coops One style is made out of a wide shoe box, or case, by nailing a board (as shown in Figure 87) on each end, which shall extend beyond the sides and above the top of the box ; and across these is nailed another board, forming the roof. The ventilation is perfect, when the roof is constructed in this manner, while at the same time it proves a complete protection against storms. A coop of this sort can be readily made with but little trouble and at slight expense. In the side not shown in the cut is a door through which the hen is admitted or let out, and on the front side (see cut) a pane of glass can be inserted, if de- sired, to give ample light. COOPS, YARDS AND FENCES IIlJ Another plan is shown in Figure 88. Tip a lar ;e packing box on one side, making the open space or original top the front. Nail boards, a, across this space half way down, letting the top one, b, extend nearly its width above the top edge of the box, and several inches beyond 'the ends. Nail a similar one, c, on the back, leaving this a couple of inches above the top. Two side boards, d, are now added, sawed slant- ing to make a smooth slope between the front and back for the roof. As they are six inches beyond the ends of the box, it makes a protection from the FIG 88: A PACKING BOX COOP weather, besides leaving space for circulation, while to make this of value to the interior a square must be sawed from the top of the box before the roof is put on, as this top floor has been left whole. This makes the ventilation good without danger of leaks, and the roof is now added. Returning to the unbearded space in front, we nail a strip four inches wide down the center and tack- fine wire netting, /, over one side. A second strip is put over the first to cover the edge of the netting, and to leave room for a groove for the sliding door, g, on 12O POULTRY ARCHITECT URE the other side. This may be either of wood or a skeleton frame made and covered with netting. A groove must be made in the box for the other side of the slide. Nearly all the boxes come with well-stayed corners, so this is not difficult. FIG BROOD COOP WITH RUN Paint the outside, roof and all, to prevent the cracks from spreading. Or the roof may be covered with roofing paper or cheaper still with tarred paper, which will last a season or two. These bt>xes vary somewhat in size, but they will hold from fifteen to twenty-five chickens till they are pretty well grown, FIG 9pe 94 single 94 Matteson's 97 Building, low cost 1 1 Business poultry plant 76 Colony house 24 shelter coop 125 system in Rhode Island 33 Convenient house 13 Coop, a light 121 A-shaped 117 brood 1 20 Coops, box 118 for fattening 123 for orchard 123 hay sheds 114 rat proof 112, 114 ten-cent 115 with glass roof no Cornstalk shelter 23 Drainage 3 Duckhouses 106 Early chicks, coop for in house for 100 Exhibition coops 124 Experiments, West Virginia 5 Farmers' poultry house 37 Feed house 29 Fence, hen tight 127 Fattening coops 123 Floor, a cement 3 of clay 56 Foundation, a post 2 stone 2 France, G. R., house of n Glass in houses 6 Heating pipes 93 Hennery, handy 16 Home, a practical poultry 80 PAGE House, a business 25 a Kansas 60 a Maine 58 a Nebraska 6_> a ten-dollar 19 cheap and labor-saving 14 convenient i cost of per fowl 8 economical, small 22 for cold storage 101 for ducks 106 for mild climate 10 for one hundred fowls 49 for thirty fowls 20 for turkeys 1 04 farmers' poultry 3, good winter 53 in bank wall 68 in sand bank 63 light 56 L-shaped 51 model 78 movable 45 octagon 51 of sods 59 poultry and pieeon 108 prize, Grundy's 35 protected for winter 9=; removable 40 Rhode Island colony 3-' satisfactory 54 situation of 3 warm 68 well made 70 windproof 65 with cloth run 50 with scratching shed 21 Houses, effect of heating 5 northern colony 30 Ice room 102 Incubator house 90 Mrs Fairbanks's 91 room banked 90 Layers, house for 18 Lean-to for poultry 84 Location of poultry plant 2 Log house 66 6 6 Material, preserving second hand Nest boxes Notes for builders 130 INDEX PAGE Octagon house 51 Pigeon lofts 107 Pollard's poultry house 76 Poultry plant, plan of 89 Rhode Island colony house 32 Roof, hning for 6 Roosts 7, 75 movable 55 warm 5 Run, cool for chicks 113 for winter 86 Runway to second story 82 Sand house 67 Sash with double glass 7 Second story room 82 Scratching pen 83 shed 21 sheds protected 87 Shelter, cornstalk 23 summer and fall 121 sunny 84 Shipping coops 124 Site for poultry buildings 2 Slope for poultry plant 2 Sod houses 59 to lay 62 Soil for poultry plant i Stoddard's poultry house 25 Tank and incubator house 92 Troughs and fountains . . 8 Turkey houses 104 Ventilator 56 Wall, a warm 4 Water supply 92 Windows, double removable 6 Winter protection 85 Yard for three flocks 125 Yards, movable 127 for two or four flocks 126 OF THE STANDARD BOOKS PUBLISHED BY ORANGE JUDD COMPANY NEW YORK CHICAGO 39-441 Lafayette Street Marquette Building ~DOOKS sent to all parts of the ivorld for catalog price. 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