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VIEWS IN NORTH BRITAIN, 
 
 ILLUSTRATIVE 
 
 ROBERT BURNS. 
 
 ACCOMPANIED WITH 
 
 AND A SKETCH OF THE POET'S LIFE. 
 
 By JAMES STOKER and JOHN GREIG. 
 
 Rear high thy bleak majestic hills. 
 
 Thy shelter'd valleys proudly spread; 
 And Scotia, pour thy thousand rills, 
 
 And wave thy heaths with blossoms red : 
 But never more shall poet tread 
 
 Thy airy heights, thy woodland reign, 
 Since he, the sweetest bard, is dead. 
 
 That ever breath'd the soothing strain. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 Printed by J. Swan, 76, Fleet Street, 
 
 AND PUBLISHED BY VERNOR AND HOOD, POULTRYJ 
 
 JAMES STORER AND JOHN GREIG, ENGRAVERS, 
 
 CHAPEL STREET, PENTONVILLE. 
 
 1805. 
 
ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 The minute and circumstantial Memoir of the Life of 
 Robert Burns, from the able pen of Dr. Currie, 
 renders the attempt further to illucidate his character 
 apparently unnecessary ; and we have only to apologize 
 for this summary compilation from his Biographer, by 
 observing, that this Illustration of his Works may pos- 
 sibly come into the possession of some who are not only 
 unacquainted with the productions of his muse, but also 
 uninformed of his history : and we shall be happy, if 
 our subordinate efforts tend in any degree to diffuse the 
 knowledge of his fame. 
 
 We acknowledge, with pleasure, our obligations to 
 the Rev. Dr. Peebles of Ayr, Dr. Smith of Friars' 
 Carse, and Claude Alexander, Esq. of Balloch" 
 myle, from whom we have received much useful in- 
 formation* 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Frontispiece: Nanse Tannock^ the Hostess at Mauch- 
 
 lane, and Robert Burns 
 
 Vignette Title: the Hermitage at Friars* Carse 
 
 Sketch of the Life of Burns g 
 
 The Brigs of Ayr 23 
 
 Wallace Tower, Ayrshire 25 
 
 The House in which Robert Burns was Born, * 27 
 
 Kirk AUoway 29 
 
 The Banks of the Doon 32 
 
 The Braes o' Ballochmyle 34 
 
 Lincluden College : Two Views 36 
 
 Friars' Carse, Dumfriesshire 39 
 
 The Banks of the Nith 45 
 
 The City of Edinburgh 4f 
 
 Ferguson's Tomb 50 
 
 The Birks of Aberfeldie: Two Views 51 
 
 The Village of Kenmore 54 
 
 The Falls of Bruar : Two Vievfrs. 56 
 
 The Falls of Fyers: Two Views , 60 
 
SKETCH 
 
 LIFE 
 
 ROBERT BURNS. 
 
 Robert Burns, the subjectof the present sketch, 
 was born in the parish of Ayr, in Ayrshire, on the 
 25th of January, 1759; his father, who came from 
 the north of Scotland, was at that time gardener to 
 a gentleman of the name of Ferguson ; in which 
 situation his conduct was so much approved, that 
 his employer leased him a farm of considerable 
 extent; but the produce, on account of the in- 
 different soil, and a train of disastrous circum- 
 stances, was scarcely adequate to support his 
 family; he still, however, endeavoured to keep 
 them together, being sensible, that their future 
 welfare could only be ensured by giving a virtu- 
 ous bias to their pliant minds. The order of his 
 father's house is well described by Burns, in his 
 Cotter's Saturday Night : 
 
10 
 
 The cheerfu' supper done, wi* serious face 
 They round the ingle form a circle wide; 
 The sire turns o'er with patriarchal grace. 
 The big ha' bible, once his father's pride. 
 
 He wales a portion with judicious care. 
 
 And " let us worship God," he says, with solemn air. 
 
 it is much to be regretted that the poet paid 
 such an indifferent regard to the instructions of 
 his pious father, when maturity withdrew him 
 from his admonitions; to this cause may, in some 
 measure, be imputed the errors and sufferings of 
 his subsequent life. His education was nothing 
 superior to what is usual among the peasantry in 
 Scotland; but his father having a taste for books, 
 and the particular attention he received from his 
 schoolmaster, Mr. Murdoch, inspired him with a 
 love of knowledge, which may be considered as a 
 leading string to that eminence, as a poet, which 
 he afterwards attained; yet he displayed so little 
 of that vivacity, for which he was subsequently 
 distinguished, while under the care of his tutor, 
 that the latter was induced to observe, that 
 Burns ^Svas not a genius likely to address the 
 muses." 
 
 The daily fatigue he endured in his early 
 years was excessive; at the age of fifteen he was 
 the principal labourer on the farm, his father being 
 unable to pay the hire of a servant. This ex- 
 posure, in the dawn of youth, to all the severity 
 
11 
 
 of manual exertion, combined with the effects of 
 a coarse and scanty fare, the sad and only re- 
 compence of almost incessant toil, occasioned 
 him frequent headachs; which, at a more ad- 
 vanced period of life, were succeeded by a pal- 
 pitation of the heart, at times so violent as to 
 threaten suffocation. In his twenty-third year, 
 he joined a flax-dresser, at Irvine, in Ayrshire, 
 with an intention to practice the trade, and, at 
 the same time, to render it subservient to the 
 growth of flax; but this design was crushed in its 
 infancy, through the shop wherein he was engaged 
 being consumed by fire : his hopes of indepen- 
 dency from a new profession being thus frustra- 
 ted, he returned to his former occupation. About 
 this period the death of Burns' father induced 
 the family to change their residence, and they 
 jointly rented a farm in the neighbourhood, where, 
 for the space of four years, their utmost exertions 
 were unavailing, to rescue them from the iron 
 hand of want. During this era of labour and 
 distress, strange as it may appear, Robert com- 
 posed almost the whole of the poems which were 
 published in the first, or Kilmarnock, edition. It 
 was likewise at this, apparently, unprppitious time, 
 that Burns formed an attachment of the tenderest. 
 nature, the particulars of which are related by 
 himself, in the lines that follow: 
 
12 
 
 There was a lass, and she was fair. 
 At kirk and market to be seen. 
 When a' the fairest maids were there. 
 The fairest maid was bonnie Jean. 
 
 Young Fabie was the brawest lad. 
 The flower and pride of a' the glen ; 
 And he had owsen, sheep, and kyes. 
 And wanton naigies nine or ten. 
 
 He gae'd wi' Jeanie to the tryste. 
 He dancM wi' Jeanie on the down ; 
 And lang ere witless Jeanie wist. 
 Her heart was tint, her peace was stown. 
 
 As in the bosom o* the stream. 
 The moon-beam dwells at dewy e'en. 
 So trembling pure was tender love 
 Within the breast o' bonnie Jean. 
 
 And now she works her mammie's wark. 
 And ay she sighs wi* care and pain. 
 Yet wist na what her ail might be. 
 Or what wad make her weel again. 
 
 But did na Jeanie's heart loup light. 
 And did na joy blink in her e*e. 
 As Rabie tauld a tale o* love, 
 Ae e'enin on the lily lea? 
 
 O Jeanie fair, I loe thee dear ; 
 O canst thou think to fancy me. 
 Or wilt thou leave thy mammie's <iot. 
 And learn to tent the farms wi' me? 
 
13 
 
 Now, what could artless Jeanie do? 
 She had na will to say him na; 
 At length she blush'd a sweet consent. 
 And love was ay between them twa. 
 
 This connection was violently opposed by the 
 parents of Jeanie, and so bitter was their resent- 
 ment, that they not only compelled her to aban- 
 don him, though the most solemn vows had been 
 interchanged, but subjected him to the ignominy 
 of penance, and employed the terriers of the law, 
 who hunted him from place to place like a felon, 
 to obtain from him a maintenance for the fruit of 
 his amour. His reflections were so melancholy on 
 this occasion, that, to use an expression of his own, 
 he "was nearly qualified for a place among those 
 who have lost the chart, and mistaken the rec- 
 koning of rationality." Resigning his own share 
 of the farm to his brother, he made prepara- 
 tions for a migration to Jamaica; yet, before 
 he quitted his native country, he resolved to 
 publish his poems. This publication gave a new 
 and unexpected turn to his pursuits, and opened 
 the most inviting prospects, though at a time 
 when his difficulties seemed rapidly approxima- 
 ting to a crisis, for he had composed the last 
 song''^ that he expected to write in Caledonia, 
 had taken leave of the few he could denominate 
 his friends; and, such were his pecuniary embar- 
 
 * " The gloomy night is gathering fast/* 
 
14 
 
 rassments, that he had determined on workincr his 
 passage to Jamaica. Having received encourage- 
 ment from several persons of literary fame, in 
 November, 17S6, he visited Edinburgh, in order 
 to try a second edition of his poems : the periodi- 
 cal paper called the Lounger, was then publishing 
 in that city, and the ninety-seventh number is de- 
 dicated to an atcount o/" Robert Burns, the 
 Ayrshire Ploughman, with extracts from 
 his poems. This introduced him to very general 
 notice in England, as well as in Scotland, so that 
 a liberal edition of his works was shortly carried 
 oft. At Edinburgh he had an opportunity of 
 displaying the manly and independent spirit he 
 possessed: indeed, so much did he dread to be 
 accused of any thing approaching to meanness 
 or servility, that he was in danger on the con- 
 trary extreme, and frequently subjected himself 
 to the imputation of superciliousness and ar- 
 rogance. This independence of his character 
 is finely portrayed in a dedication to Gawen 
 Hamilton, esq. 
 
 Expect na. Sir, in this narration, 
 A fleechin fleth'rin dedication 
 To roose you up, an' ca* you guid. 
 An' sprung o' great an* noble bluid ; 
 Because ye're surnam'd, like His Grace^ 
 Perhaps related to the race. 
 Then, when I'm tir'd, and sae are ye^ 
 \Vi' many a fulsome, sinfu' lie^^^ 
 
}5 
 
 Set up a face, how I stop shorty 
 For fear your modesty be hurt. 
 
 This may do — maun do. Sir, wi* them wha 
 Maun please the great folk for a wamefu'; 
 For me, sae laigh, I need na bow. 
 For, Lord be thankit, I can plough ; 
 And when I downa yoke a naig, 
 *rhen. Lord be thankit, I can beg ; 
 Sae I shall say, an* that's nae flatt'rin. 
 Its just sic poet an* sic patron. 
 
 And again, in one of his lyrics: 
 
 Ye see yon birkie, caM a lord, 
 
 Wha struts, and stares, and a' that; 
 
 Though hundreds worship at his word* 
 
 He's but a cuif for a* that : 
 
 For a* that, for a' that. 
 
 His ribband, star, and a' that; 
 
 The man of independent mind. 
 
 He looks and laughs at a' that. 
 
 At Edinburgh he received the greatest atten* 
 tion, not only from men of letters, but from those of 
 rank and fashion; he was particularly distinguished 
 by the Earl of Glencairn, who introduced him to 
 the Caledonian Hunt, an association of the princi- 
 pal nobility and gentry in Scotland; who, ex- 
 tending their patronage to the poet, admitted 
 him to partake of their festivities. This change 
 in his habits made an unfavourable impression 
 on his constitution; but though he could presage 
 with tolerable certainty the result of every de- 
 
16 
 
 viation from the line of temperance, still incli- 
 nation kept pace with opportunity, and having 
 embarked on the tide ' of intemperance, he at 
 length became listless to the consequences, and 
 was borne, without resistance, down its fatal 
 stream. From the second edition of his poems, 
 Burns acquired a profit sufficient to enable him 
 to gratify a desire long indulged, which was to 
 visit the banks of the Tweed, and its tributary 
 streams: accordingly, he set out in May, 1787, 
 accompanied by jMr. Anslie, a gentleman who 
 enjoyed much of his friendship and esteem. Ha- 
 ving spent about three weeks in exploring the 
 south of Scotland, he made an excursion into 
 Northumberland; visited Alnwick Castle, and the 
 Hermitage and Castle of Warksworth: thence 
 travelling through Morpeth and Newcastle, he 
 returned by Carlisle to his native country. On 
 arriving in Scotland, he proceeded to Dumfries, 
 and shortly after to Mossgiel, in Ayrshire; here 
 he was welcomed with peculiar pleasure by his 
 mother and other relatives, and appeared happy 
 in sharing with them the pecuniary advantages 
 he had acquired. Remaining at Mossgiel a few 
 days, he again set out for Edinburgh, and from 
 that city proceeded on a tour to the High- 
 lands : having accomplished this journey, he re- 
 turned to Ayrshire, and spent some time indulging 
 a social disposition in the circle of his acquaint- 
 ance, which was now become respectable and 
 
17 
 
 extensive. Burns was a great admirer of that mar- 
 tial spirit which particularly prevailed in Scotland 
 about the thirteenth century, and the poem on 
 Bannockburn is a proof to what a height of en- 
 thusiasm his mind was wrought, on viewing the 
 soil his countrymen had moistened with their 
 blood. In this piece he introduces Bruce ad- 
 dressing the army: 
 
 Scots, wha hae wi* Wallace bled, 
 Scots, wham Bruce has aften led. 
 Welcome to your gory bed. 
 Or to glorious victorie. 
 
 Wha for Scotland*s king and law 
 Freedom's sword will strongly draw. 
 Free-man stand, or free-man fa', 
 Caledonian, on wi' me ! 
 
 Induced by this peculiarity of disposition, he 
 resolved on visiting, in company with a friend, such 
 places as are remarkable in the annals of Scottish 
 fame ; and Burns, speaking of this excursion, ex- 
 presses the particular satisfaction they experienced 
 on being introduced to Mrs. Bruce of Clackman- 
 nan, a lineal descendant from Robert de Bruce. 
 This lady, though bowed down by years and infir- 
 mity, still possessed a spark of the ancient spirit of 
 her family; for, havingin possession the two-handed 
 sword of her renowned ancestor, she conferred 
 on the poet and his associate the honour of knight- 
 hood ; remarking, at the same time, that she had a 
 
 c 
 
18 
 
 greater right to confer that title than somfe people. 
 At Dumfermline he visited the abbey church, now 
 used as a place of worship by the Presbyterians : 
 there Burns mounted the pulpit, and addressed to 
 his companion, who was stationed on the stool of 
 penance, a ludicrous reprimand and exhortation, 
 parodied from that which he had himself received 
 on a former occasion. From this tour he re- 
 turned to Edinburgh, but a curiosity further to 
 explore his native land induced him again to leave 
 the capital, on a more extensive journey than he 
 had yet undertaken. 
 
 Early in 1788, he settled with his publisher, 
 and had the satisfaction to find himself possessed of 
 nearly five hundred pounds, two hundred of which 
 he generously advanced to his brother, who had 
 undertaken to provide for his mother and sister. 
 With the remains of his property he resolved to 
 settle on a farm; and, accordingly, about Whit- 
 suntide, in the same year, he hired one on the 
 banks of the Nith, six miles from Dumfries. 
 Shortly before this transaction, he had renewed 
 his addresses where his heart had long been en- 
 gaged, and, nobly overlooking the injuries recei- 
 ved in the days of his poverty, from the parents of 
 his Jeanie, he now made her his lawful wife. The 
 poet was particularly welcome at the tables of the 
 gentlemen of Nithsdale ; and in all their social 
 parties his company was considered as an essen- 
 tial acquisition. The continual invitations he re- 
 
J9 
 
 ceived gradually excited in his breast a distaste 
 for his regular pursuits, and, being appointed an 
 officer in the excise, for which he had been so- 
 licitous, his indifference to the farm became ma- 
 nifest; and though he might sometimes be seen 
 directing the plough, and committing the seed to 
 the ground, his mind was intent on other objects. 
 In addition to the hinderances already mentioned, 
 he was now eni^aired in the formation of a book- 
 society, and frequently occupied himself in com- 
 posing songs; thus his. business was, in a great 
 measure, neglected ; and, notwithstanding the 
 greatest prudence and good management, on the 
 part of Mrs. Burns, he was obliged to relinquish 
 the farm in little more than three years. Having 
 sold his stock, he removed to Dumfries, at the 
 conclusion of the year 1791, hoping to support 
 his family by his income from the excise; but, 
 however desirous he might be of retirement, his 
 poetic fame rendered seclusion impracticable. 
 His company was assiduously courted by the 
 gentry of Dumfries and its vicinity; and his com- 
 pliance with their invitations exposed him to ex- 
 cesses which he was unwilling, or unable to resist. 
 His intemperance became almost habitual, yet 
 he still cultivated the acquaintance of persons 
 of taste and respectability; and, during the last 
 four years of his life, produced some of his best 
 lyrics, besides other poems published in the later 
 editions of his works. His irregularities were 
 
20 
 
 now making rapid inroads on his constitution, 
 and silently sapping the springs of life ; yet, 
 though nearly a twelvemonth before his death, 
 he was conscious, that nothing but an entire 
 change of conduct could protract his existence, 
 he had no resolution to profit by the presenti- 
 ment. His frame was now wasting daily, and his 
 mind fast sinking into feebleness and desponden- 
 cy: in this enervated state, impatient, and alniost 
 desperate, he determined to try the effects of sea- 
 bathing; and, for that purpose, took a residence 
 at Brow, in Annandale, ten miles from Dumfries. 
 At first he appeared to receive benefit from the 
 experiment; but, being attacked by a fever, he 
 was again conveyed to his house, where a delirium 
 soon succeeded, and, on the fourth day after his 
 return, his sufferings were terminated by death, in 
 the thirty-seventh year of his age. He was buried 
 at Dumfries with military honours, having been 
 a member of the volunteer corps of that town ; 
 and a considerable concourse of people, many of 
 whom were from distant parts, attended his ob- 
 sequies. Immediately after the death of Burns, 
 the gentlemen of Dumfries opened a subscription 
 for his widow and his four orphan children; 
 which, together with the sale of the copy-right of 
 his poems, afforded her a comfortable prospect 
 of future subsistence. 
 
 The beautiful epitaph written by Burns, on 
 himself, is so strongly illustrative of his character, 
 
21 
 
 that we are persuaded a better finish cannot be 
 given to this sketch, than by its insertion here. 
 Precept, when founded on the deductions of ex- 
 perience, becomes of ten-fold greater value than 
 when its crude advice is the simple inference of 
 reflection. 
 
 Is there a whim-inspired fool, 
 
 Owre fast for thought, owre hot for rule, 
 
 Ovvre blate to seek, owre proud to siiool. 
 
 Let him draw near; 
 And o^vre this grassy heap sing dool. 
 
 And drap a tear. 
 
 Is there a Bard of rustic song. 
 
 Who, noteless, steals the crowds among. 
 
 That weekly this area throng, 
 
 O, pass not by ! 
 But, with a frater-feeling strong, 
 
 Here heave a sigh. 
 
 Is there a man, whose judgment clear 
 Can others teach the course to steer. 
 Yet runs, himself, life's mad career. 
 
 Wild as the wave. 
 Here pause— and, through the starting tear. 
 
 Survey this grave. 
 
 The poor inhabitant below 
 
 Was quick to learn and wise to know. 
 
 And keenly felt the friendly glow. 
 
 And softer fiane; 
 But thoughtless follies laid him low, 
 
 And stain'd his name ! 
 
^2 
 
 Reader, attend — ^whether thy soul 
 Soars fancy^s flights beyond the pole. 
 Or darkling grubs this earthly hole> 
 
 In low pursuit, 
 Kuow^ prudent, cautious, self-coiuroul 
 
 Is Wisdom's root. 
 

 lis 
 
 1*^ 
 
AN 
 
 ILLUSTRATION 
 
 OF THE 
 
 WORKS 
 
 OF 
 
 ROBERT BURNS. 
 
 THE BRIGS OF AYR. 
 
 The old bridge, which consists of four arches, 
 and, like most bridges of ancient times, rises to a 
 considerable height, was, for several hundred 
 years, the only pass over the Ayr from Kyle, on 
 the way to Carrick. About sixty years ago, no 
 other bridge, for the extent of fifteen miles, existed 
 on that river except the old bridge at Barskim- 
 ming, the seat of Sir Thomas Miller, one of the 
 Lords of the Court of Session. It is probable 
 that the old bridge at Ayr was built at the ex- 
 pence of the county; but at what time is difficult 
 to determine. It has undergone many repairs; but 
 being extremely inconvenient, both on account of 
 its height and the narrowness of the path along it, 
 (for it was with difficulty that two carriages could 
 pass each other) is now restricted to foot passen- 
 
24. 
 
 gers; and a new bridge has been built, about a 
 hundred and fifty yards below: this was finished in 
 the year 1789, under the auspices of John Ballan- 
 tlne, esq. provost of the burgh. It is a neat, well- 
 executed structure; and consists of five arches, but 
 wants the majestic appearance of the old bridge. 
 The arches are built rather low, on purpose to 
 render the ascent for carriages more easy. The en- 
 trance from the north-east is awkward, owing to 
 a row of buildings on the side of Newton, that 
 terminates within a few yards of the bridge, and 
 in a direct line with the passage over it. The 
 other end fronts the town-house and steeple, 
 about a hundred yards distant, which, like 
 Middle-Row, in Holborn, and the Luckenbooths, 
 at Edinburgh, stand in the middle of the street. 
 A little below the new bridge is the harbour. 
 The prospect to the mouth of the river is beauti- 
 ful: over the expanse of the sea are seen the 
 lofty hills of Arran, whose tops, often covered 
 with snow, are, at times, lost in the clouds. It 
 appears that Burns, in his poem, entituled the 
 Brigs of Ayr, was proceeding along the old bridge 
 from the town of Ayr, to a well-known tavern on 
 the other side, when the genii of the brigs made 
 their appearance. The town steeple, to which the 
 dungeon clock belongs, is seen in the view. 
 
% 
 
t '^rmt Walhu^'r Thm'r A/it/ tttvottt /A^ /itc/ unt^ Au^. ' 
 
25 
 
 WALLACE TOWER, AYRSHIRE. 
 
 Wallace To^ver, in the town of Ayr, is a 
 small edifice, badly constructed, about thirty feet 
 in height, besides the roof in the form of a spire. 
 It is, however, ornamented with the dial^plate of 
 a clock, and contains a small bell, to which Burns 
 alludes in his poem on the Brigs of Ayr. Wallace 
 Tower stands within a hundred yards of the river 
 Ayr, to the west, on the left hand side of the 
 street, that leads winding from the cross of Ayr, 
 and which terminates in two roads, the one 
 to Cumnock, and the other to the old bridge, 
 over the Doon to Carrick. This Tower, accord- 
 ing to tradition, derives its name from William 
 Wallace, commonly called Sir William Wallace, 
 who is celebrated in the history of Scotland, and 
 of whom Thomson justly says, 
 
 " Great patriot hero ! ill-requited chief!" 
 
 When Edward I. towards the end of the thir- 
 teenth century, had subjected Scotland to his do- 
 minion, he placed garrisons in the most noted 
 towns. At Ayr, it is reported, he stationed a go- 
 vernor with a considerable number of troops, who 
 resided in a house that Avas called the Barns of 
 Ayr, situated near the river, not far from Wallace 
 Tower, but of which no traces now remain. By 
 
^6 
 
 Wallace's dexterity, the hotise was set on fire, and 
 consumed, through which a number of the English 
 soldiers lost their lives. Before that event, it is 
 said, that the English garrison having (by strata- 
 gem) got Wallace into their power, imprisoned 
 him in the building now called by his name; 
 which, in those days, was appropriated for crimi- 
 nals. After languishing in bad health in that 
 gloomy dungeon, he at last, by the aid of his 
 friends, made his escape, and was carried almost 
 iifei ss across the river, and secreted in the house 
 of an old woman, once his nurse, in the small 
 burgh of Newton upon Ayr. It is many years 
 '::3ice Wallace Tower was used as a prison; more 
 secure and convenient apartments having been 
 fitted up before the town-house of the burgh of 
 Ayr. 
 
g? 
 
 THE HOUSE IN WHICH ROBERT 
 BURNS WAS BORN. 
 
 Tpiis cottage is situated at a short distance from 
 Ayr, near to Kirk Alloway, and has nothing re- 
 markable to recommend it, unless considered of 
 consequence, on account of its being the birth- 
 place of such an eminent poet. 
 
 The house was built by William Burness, the 
 father of Robert, shortly after whose birth, one 
 end of it fell down, which occasioned an alarm, 
 easier conceived than described. This house con- 
 sisted of a kitchen at one extremity, and at the 
 other was a room, dignified with the luxury of 
 a fire-place and chimney; things not usual, at 
 that time, in the cottages of the peasantry of 
 Scodand. William Burness also constructed, in 
 the kitchen, a concealed bed, with a small closet 
 at the end, of the same materials with the house, 
 and being altogether cast over both outside and 
 inside with mortar, it had a neat and comfortable 
 appearance. 
 
 The person who occupies it at present has 
 turned it into a snug public house; at this house, 
 yearly, on the birth-day of Burns, a social party 
 meet, and celebrate it with festivity and rejoicing; 
 scarcely a traveller passes^ who does not there 
 
28 
 
 pay a tribute to the memory of the poet ; and the 
 possessor has contrived that none shall pass with- 
 out knowing w^ho once inhabited it, by placing 
 the following inscription near the door : 
 
 Halt, passenger, and read : 
 This is the humble cottage, 
 that gave birth to the celebrated 
 poet, Robert Buens, 
 
29 
 
 KIRK ALLOWAY 
 
 LIES ^vithin a few yards of the road that leads 
 from Ayr to Carrick. It is a place of great an- 
 tiquity, but has been gradually decaying, since the 
 union of the parish of Alloway to that of Ayr, a 
 circumstance which took place above a century 
 ago. The former parish is considered as one of 
 the oldest in Scotland; and, though the conse- 
 quence of its union with Ayr is the near dissolu- 
 tion of its venerable kirk, still the inhabitants re- 
 tain some peculiar privileges, which abundantly 
 testify its ancient importance. Burns has rendered 
 the church famous by his tale of Ta77i o^Shanter, 
 composed at the request of the late learned an- 
 tiquary, Captain Grose, to accompany a view, 
 engraved for his antiquities of Scotland. It ap- 
 pears to be, by the concurrent testimony of the 
 country, a place notorious for the nocturnal re- 
 vels of witches and fairies; and the poet, favour- 
 ing the conceit of his countrymen, has given, in 
 the piece above mentioned, a description of one 
 of their assemblies; and, after representing them 
 in the height of their magical sport, under the 
 presidency of " Auld Nick," he adds an inventory 
 of attendant circumstances, that exhibits a mind 
 fertile wifh images of the most terrific nature. 
 
50 
 
 Coffins stood round, like open presses; 
 That shawM the dead in their last dresses; 
 And by some devilish cantrip slight. 
 Each in its cauld hand held a light, 
 By which heroic Tarn was able 
 To note upon the haly table, 
 A murderer's banes in gibbet aims; 
 Twa span-lang, wee, unchristenM balms; 
 A thief, new-cutted frae a rape, 
 AVi* his last gasp, his gab did gape; 
 Five tomahaM'ks, wi' blude red -rusted ; 
 Five scymitarsj wi* murder crusted ; 
 A garter, which a babe had strangled ; 
 A knife, a father's throat had mangled. 
 Whom his ain son o*life bereft. 
 The grey hairs yet stack to the heft : 
 Wi' niair o' horrible and awfu'. 
 Which e'en to name wad be unlawfu'! 
 
 In the burial ground of Kirk Alloway is in- 
 terred the remains of William Burness*, the father 
 of the poet, and a stone is seen in the left corner 
 of the annexed view, on wiiich is engraved this 
 inscription to his memory: 
 
 THJS STONE WAS ERECTED TO THE 
 MEMORY OF 
 
 WILLIAM BURNESS, 
 
 LATE FARMER IN LOCHLEE PARISH, OF TARROLTOPT, 
 
 W&o died Feb. 13, 1784, aged 63 years; and txas buried here. 
 
 The wall of the church-yard being nearly 
 
 * The name was abreviatcd by the poet and his brother 
 Gilbert. 
 
SI 
 
 destroyed, at the time of his residence in its vi- 
 cinity, he joined two or three neighbours in an 
 application to the town council of Ayr, for per- 
 mission to rebuild it, which was granted, and a 
 subscription raised for the purpose; since that 
 time, the inclosed ground was considered the 
 burial place of the family, and Burns himself ex- 
 pressed an intention to rest his bones there, when 
 they should be no longer serviceable to him, 
 but his anticipation was not realised. 
 
 The place appropriated for public worship in 
 the church was small, scarcely accommodating 
 three hundred persons ; some years ago the roof 
 was standing, and a few seats, and the gallery or 
 loft at the west end, were visible; but nothing now 
 remains except the walls. It is worthy of notice, 
 that, notwithstanding the decay of the kirk, the 
 bell retains its ancient situation, as may be seen 
 in the print, with a remnant of the chain. iVn at- 
 tempt to remove it was made by the magistrates 
 a short time since, but the zeal of the peasantry 
 interposed, and the design was abandoned. 
 
32 
 
 BANKS OF THE BOON. 
 
 The river Doon, about two miles S.W. from the 
 burgh of Ayr, divides Kyle from Carrick. For 
 several miles from its mouth, its banks are 
 beautifully diversified with plantations, well-cul- 
 tivated fields, and neat villas. Mount Charles 
 was built a few^ years ago, by the late Robert 
 Gairdner, esq. once in the East India Company's 
 service ; Doon-side, the property of Craw- 
 ford, esq. ; Doon-holm, the country seat of John 
 Hunter, esq. writer to the signet; Blairston, an 
 antiquated building, belonging to David Cath- 
 cart, esq. advocate ; Monkwood, the property of 
 James Ferguson, esq. advocate; and the old castle 
 of Cassellis, whence the Earl of Cassellis derives 
 his title : the latter is a sequestered spot, where 
 the muses may sport, and happy lovers renew 
 Arcadian scenes, as in days of yore. The Doon, 
 though not fed by so many tributary streams as the 
 Ayr, pours down a larger quantity of water. Dur 
 ring the summer months its channel is always full. 
 The ruins of Greenan Castle, at a small distance 
 from the mouth of the Doon, on a rock on Car- 
 rick shore, have a very striking and picturesque 
 effect. 
 
 The bridge of Doon, seen in the view, is no- 
 ticed in Burns' tale of Tarn o^Shanter, It is sai(^ 
 
lillilM^^^ 
 
33 
 
 that witches and evil spirits have no power to con- 
 tinue a pursuit further than the middle of the next 
 running stream; and Tarn's mare, having just 
 gained the ^' key stane o' the brig," was over- 
 taken, 
 
 For Nannie, far before the rest. 
 Hard upon not^Ie, Maggie prest. 
 And flew at Tarn wi' furious ettle. 
 But little wist she Maggie's mettle ; 
 Ae spring bronJ^lit off her master hale, 
 But left behin 1 her alii grey tail: 
 The carlin clavight her by the rump. 
 And left poor Maggie scarce a stump. 
 
34 
 
 THE 
 
 BRAES a BALLOCHMYLE. 
 
 On the steep bank of the river Ayr, about thir- 
 teen miles above the county town, in the parish 
 of Mauchline, stands the house of Ballochmyle. 
 It was built about two-and-forty years ago, by 
 the late Mr. Allan Whitefoord, receiver-general 
 of his Majesty's land-taxes for Scotland ; and is 
 now the property of Claud Alexander, esq. late 
 paymaster-general of the Company's forces in Ben- 
 gal. The situation is very romantic, being elevated 
 two hundred feet above the river, and surround- 
 ed with fine natural woods and plantations, which 
 are celebrated by Burns in these pathetic strains: 
 
 Low in your wintry beds, ye flowers. 
 
 Again ye*ll flourish fresh and fair ; 
 Ye birdies dumb, in with'ring bovvers 
 
 Again ye'U charm the vocal air. 
 But Jiere, alas ! for me nae mair 
 
 Shall birdie charm, or flow'ret smile ; 
 Farewell the bonnie banks of Ayr, 
 
 Farewell, farewell, sweet Ballochmyle. 
 
 From the house is seen, through the trees, a 
 peep of the thriving village of Catrine, situated a 
 mile further up the river: it is built on a regu- 
 lar plan, and, though it was commenced only 
 
35 
 
 about eighteen years ago, it now contains nearly 
 eighteen hundred souls; who are chiefly support- 
 ed by the extensive cotton-works which were 
 erected by David Dale, esq. of Glasgow, and 
 Mr. Alexander, his partner, in the year 1787. 
 The works are now the property of Messrs. Kirk- 
 man, Finlay, and Co. of Glasgow. The manufac- 
 tory has a lofty and extensive front, closely glazed. 
 Coming suddenly and unexpectedly through a 
 country, wild as this is, upon such an object, 
 glittering in the full blaze of a noon-tide sun, it 
 has a most magnificent appearance; and, at the 
 moment, seems rather the effect of magic than 
 reality. 
 
36 
 
 LINCLUDEN COLLEGE*. 
 
 This religious institution was founded byUthered, 
 father to Roland, lord of Galloway, during the 
 reign of Malcolm the Fourth, king of Scotland ; 
 who placed here a convent of nuns, of the Be- 
 nedictine order, and endowed it with diverse 
 lands, lying within the baronies of Corse Michael 
 and Drumsleith, in the stewartry of Kirkcudbright. 
 Archibald the Grim, earl of Douglas, a man of 
 singular piety, provoked by the immoral conduct 
 of the nuns, who disregarded his admonitions, 
 formed the resolution of expelling them, which 
 he effected, prior to the year 1400; and esta- 
 blished in their room a college, consisting of a 
 provost and twelve beadsmen. 
 
 On the death of the last provost, A. D. 1565, 
 Lincluden became a temporary barony, and 
 formed part of the possessions of the family of 
 Nithsdale: we ar^ informed, that it is now the 
 property of William Hagerston Maxwell Consta- 
 ble, esq. 
 
 The venerable ruins of this college are situ- 
 ated about a mile and a half north-west from 
 Dumfries, on the banks of the Clouden, a tribu- 
 tary stream to the river Nith. The structure, 
 
 * Seethe poem intituled, A Visiom. 
 
37 
 
 though low, and built with a dull red stone, pre- 
 sents a most beautiful and highly-enriched speci- 
 men of the English, or pointed style of Gothic 
 architecture; the windows are ornamented with 
 peculiar richness, and, in the general decoration, 
 no part, interior or exterior, has been forgotten. 
 
 On viewing this elegant pile, where the most 
 exquisite workmanship is mouldering, obsolete, 
 and almost in oblivion, sensations of the strong- 
 est regret are excited. 
 
 Part of the upper roof of its chancel is yet in 
 existence, though the lower one is entirely demo- 
 lished; on the wall is a beautiful monument, to 
 the memory of Margaret, daughter of Robert the 
 Third, king of Scotland, and wife to Archibald, 
 earl of Douglas, and duke of Terouan. 
 
 The sequestered situation of this college, the 
 romantic scenery in its immediate neighbourhood, 
 the gentle murmuring of the Clouden, and the 
 distant roaring of the "swells and fa's" of the 
 Nith, seem to have inspired the poet with the 
 most sublime ideas. His poem, intituled, A Vision, 
 is a proof of his fondness for liberty, though pru- 
 dential reasons have here, as in other instances, 
 prevented the full expression of his sentiments; 
 it is also interesting, as conveying to the person 
 who has visited these ruins correct ideas of their 
 situation. The tower, mentioned in the begin- 
 ning of the poem, is attached to the college, and 
 seen in both the views here given : it was formerly 
 
38 
 
 the residence of the provost, but is not so ancient 
 as the college itself: this, as well as the rest, is 
 totally in ruins : here 
 
 The wa'-flower scents the dewy air, 
 Th' howlet mourns in her ivy bower 
 And tells the midnight moon her care. 
 
 «^V^V^N^.^N^ 
 
39 
 
 FRIARS' CARSE, DUMFRIESSHIRE. 
 
 Friars' Carse is situated near the river Nith, 
 about six miles from Dumfries. Tiie present 
 building is modern, but derives its name from a 
 friary which formerly stood on this spot, and 
 was subordinate to Melross Abbey. At the time 
 of the Reformation, this establishment was dis- 
 solved, and the lands rendered private property. 
 The estate, till lately, belonged to Robert Riddel, 
 esq. of Glenriddel ; and, while in his possession, 
 a contest was held here, which gave rise to Burns' 
 ballad called The Whistle; a short history of which 
 it may be necessary to subjoin. When Anne of 
 Denmark came to Scotland with James the sixth, in 
 her train was a Danish gentleman of uncommon 
 prowess and gigantic stature, and withal a deci- 
 ded votary of Bacchus. It was his custom, when 
 engaged in excess of drinking, to place upon the 
 table a small Whistle of ebony, and whoever last 
 retained ability to blow it was entitled to bear it 
 away as a trophy of victory. This thirsty hero 
 produced credentials of his invincible hardihood 
 at various foreign courts, and gave a general chal- 
 lenge to the Scotch, many of whom he vanquished ; 
 he was at length encountered by Sir Robert Laurie, 
 of Maxwelton, who, after an onset of three days 
 and three nights, left the inebriated Dane sense- 
 
40 
 
 less upon the ground, and "blew on the whistle 
 his requiem shrill." Sir Walter, son to Sir Robert, 
 afterwards lost the whistle to Walter Riddel, of 
 Glenriddel, from whom Robert Riddel, the pro- 
 prietor of Friars' Carse, was lineally descended. 
 This gentleman, possessing the Whistle by inherit- 
 ance, risked it once more on the l6th of October, 
 1791, at Friars' Carse, in a match against Sir 
 Robert Laurie, of Maxwelton, descended from Sir 
 Robert Laurie, before mentioned, and Alexander 
 Ferguson, esq. of Craigdarroch; the latter of 
 whom proved the conqueror. On this occasion 
 Burns was appointed umpire; and, by his own 
 account, a more fit person could not have been 
 assigned to such a task: he says, 
 
 A bard was selected to witness the fray. 
 And tell future ages the feats of the day; 
 A bard, who detested all sadness and spleen. 
 And wishM that Parnassus a vineyard had been. 
 
 The window which is on the right of the 
 door, when looking towards the house, belongs to 
 the dining room wherein this famous Whistle was 
 contended for. After having drank six bottles each 
 (according to the ballad) one of the party left 
 the field of action. 
 
 Then worthy Glenriddel, so cautious and sage. 
 No longer the warfare ungodly would wage; 
 A high-ruling elder to wallow in wine ! 
 He left the foul business to folks less divine. 
 
41 
 
 The others continued their exertions till sun- 
 rise the following morning, when the prize was 
 awarded by Burns ; who, striding across the van- 
 quished Sir Robert, as he lay on the ground, 
 drank off a bottle, and, inviting the victor to fol- 
 low his example, breaks out into this hyperbolical 
 praise : 
 
 " Craigdarrock, thou*lt soar, when creation shall sink, 
 ^ But if thou would flourish immortal in rhyme. 
 
 Come — one bottle more — and have at the sublime ! 
 
 " Thy line, that have struggled for freedom with Bruce, 
 Shall heroes and patriots ever produce : 
 So thine be the laurel, and mine be the bay; 
 The field thou hast won, by yon bright god of day 1" 
 
 Friars' Carse is now the property of Dr. 
 Smith, of the royal navy, who, though he may 
 have but few pretensions to the whistle, has re- 
 mitted nothing of the ancient hospitality of the 
 house. The entrance to this pleasant retreat 
 is through a thick plantation of fir, on the right 
 side of the road, coming from Dumfries. In the 
 midst of the plantation, upon an eminence, as- 
 cended by a serpentine walk, stands the hermi- 
 tage^. In this gloomy and sequestered hut, Burns 
 composed a small piece, containing many serious 
 and prudential maxims; the elegant effusion of 
 which is of far more easy acquirement than the 
 
 * See the vignette title-page. 
 F 
 
42 
 
 fortitude to ensure their practice ; a remark am- 
 ply justified by the poet^s own experience. The 
 two first verses, and the two last lines of this 
 piece, are written by his own hand, on a square 
 of glass in the hermitage window, and are as fol- 
 lows : 
 
 Thou, whom chance may hither lead. 
 Be thou clad in rustic weed. 
 Be thou deckt' in silken stole. 
 Grave these counsels on thy soul : 
 
 Life is but a day at most, 
 Sprung from night, in darkness lost; 
 Hope, not sunshine ev*ry hour. 
 Fear not clouds will always lour* 
 
 Stranger, go. Heaven be thy guide. 
 Quod the beadsman of Nithside. 
 
 A bay-tree has lately been planted here, in 
 memory of the bard : the hermitage also has been 
 recently repaired, and its possessor seems anxious, 
 for the poet's sake, to preserve it from the rava- 
 ges of time. Descending from the hermitage, a 
 fine lawn presents itself in front of the house, 
 studded with trees of oak, ash, and elm. The 
 lawn is, one side, bounded by the Nith, the oppo- 
 site bank of which is adorned with a richly- varied 
 hanging wood, that extends itself tg a consider- 
 able length, winding with the meanders of the 
 stream. The house commands a most delightful 
 
view of the vale of Nith, which, in this part, is 
 extremely picturesque : the several gentlemen's 
 seats in the neighbourhood, that rise with simple 
 elegance, give a pleasing variety to the rural 
 scene. Among them is one of those castellated 
 mansions so common in this part of Scotland ; 
 and, at present, the residence of Colonel Newall 
 Maxwell. Cowhill, the seat of George Johnston, 
 is likewise worthy of notice; as well as Dalswin- 
 ton, the superb mansion of Patrick Miller, esq. 
 This gentleman was a valuable friend to Burns; 
 he gave him the farm of Ellisland on his own 
 terms, and supplied him liberally with the means 
 of stocking it with cattle and other requisites. At 
 the distance of about half a mile from Friars' Carse 
 is a lake, in the centre of which is an island, founded 
 on pillars or piles; according to tradition, this 
 place was used by the friars as a repository for 
 their treasure, when the English made their ac- 
 customed inroads, during the wars between the 
 two nations. 
 
 The prospect in front of the house is termi- 
 nated by the hills of Tinwald and Setherwald ; 
 and, at a distance of more than thirty miles, 
 may be seen the celebrated mountain of Skiddaw, 
 in Cumberland, with the adjoining fells. The 
 view from the back part of the house is generally 
 and deservedly admired ; the scenery being in a 
 more bold and macrnificent scale than what has 
 been just noticed. The first remarkable object 
 
44 
 
 which presents itself, is a considerable mount, at 
 a short distance, on which stands a circle of im- 
 mensely large stones, representing a Druid's 
 temple; this was erected by the late Mr. Riddel, 
 of Glenriddel, secretary to the Antiquarian So- 
 ciety of Scotland, and formerly proprietor of the 
 Carse. A little to the right is the Mallach hill, 
 on the summit of which is an artificial ruin: this 
 structure suffered materially by an earthquake, 
 that occurred here on the 8th of September, 1801. 
 The view from the ruin is uncommonly grand and 
 extensive, commanding a prospect of the whole 
 vale of the Nith, the Solway Frith, the town of 
 Dumfries, Lincluden Abbey, and the coast and 
 mountains of Cumberland. To the left, from the 
 house, is the seat of William Laidlow, esq. of Al- 
 lerton ; and, about two miles up the river, is the 
 elegant bridge of Auldgirth, on the Glasgow road, 
 near to which is Blackwood, the seat of William 
 Copland, of Collieston. 
 
AS 
 
 THE 
 
 BANKS OF THE NITH. 
 
 The river Nith has its rise in Ayrshire, and flow- 
 ing thence through an exceeding fertile valley, 
 called Nithsdale, in Dumfriesshire, it joins the 
 Sohvay Frith, a few miles south of Dumfries. The 
 banks of the Nith are, in most parts, beautifully 
 diversified with wood and corn fields; and the 
 surrounding country is frequently bounded by 
 majestic hills, that rear their towering heads among 
 the clouds. 
 
 The soil about Dumfries appears as fertile as 
 any in North Britain ; the vale of Nith, in its im- 
 mediate vicinity, is particularly delightful, and 
 has been already noticed in the description of 
 Friars' Carse. The favourite walks of Burns on 
 the Nith were probably from Lincluden College 
 to some miles above the Carse, though he had 
 frequent occasions, when employed in the excise, 
 to proceed much farther. The view annexed is 
 about twenty miles from the town of Dumfries, 
 on the high road to Ayr, and is known, locally, by 
 the name of Hill Cauldron, Here the water, 
 flowing rapidly along, foams over huge mis- 
 shapen rocks, that lie half immersed in the bed of 
 
46 
 
 the river. The channel is of a considerable depth ; 
 and the contiguous banks have been enriched and 
 beautified by nature in a lavish and delightful 
 manner. 
 
47 
 
 THE 
 
 CITY OF EDINBURGH. 
 
 This city is one of the most ancient in the north 
 of Europe; its origin cannot be correctly ascer* 
 tained by historians or antiquaries; but it ap- 
 pears to have been of some degree of importance 
 in those barbarous times^ of which few records 
 remain. It is situated in the Roman province 
 called Valentia, which included the territory be- 
 tween the two Roman walls ; that of Hadrian on 
 the south, and that of Antoninus on the north. 
 This territory also belonged to the Picts, but was 
 conquered from them by the Scots, under Kenneth 
 the Second. Through its situation, being within 
 fifty-four miles of the English border, its neigh- 
 bourhood was the scene of many sanguinary con- 
 flicts between the two hostile nations. 
 
 Since the union of the two crowns, Edinburgh 
 has gradually increased, and now presents a pic- 
 ture of opulence ; a convincing proof of the 
 benefit of the union to the northern part of the 
 British isle. 
 
48 
 
 The castle of Edinburgh (which has sustained 
 several sieges, and is a place where much blood 
 has been shed) is apparently impregnable: the 
 area of the rock, on which it stands, is about six 
 acres, from which the descent is very precipitous; 
 in some parts being nearly perpendicular, and on 
 no side to be ascended, except from the east. In 
 general, its height from the base is not less than 
 three hundred feet. 
 
 The palace of Holy-rood-house is an elegant 
 stone fabric, consisting of a square, decorated 
 with a piazza and a spacious walk on each side. 
 Above the porch, or principal entrance, are the 
 royal Scots arms, as borne before the union. — 
 Burns, viewing this place, exclaims : 
 
 With awe-struck thought, and pitying tears, 
 
 I view that noble, stately dome. 
 Where Scotia's kings, of other years, 
 
 Fam*d heroes I had their royal home. 
 
 Alas ! how changM, the times to come. 
 
 Their royal name, low in the dust ; 
 Their hapless race, wild-wand'ring, roam. 
 
 Though rigid law cries out, 'twas just. 
 
 Wild beats my heart, to trace yonr steps. 
 
 Whose ancestors, in days of yore. 
 Through hostile ranks, and ruinM gaps. 
 
 Old Scotia s bloody lion bore. 
 
49 
 
 E'en I, who sin§ in rustic lore. 
 
 Haply mi/ sires have left their shed. 
 And fac'd grim danger^s loudest roar. 
 
 Bold following where j^owr fathers led. 
 
 The impossibility of our entering into an am- 
 ple description of the nuiilerous public buildings, 
 charitable institutions, &c. in Edinburgh, induces 
 us to refer our readers to a new work, intituled, 
 the *' Beauties of Scotland," in the first 
 part of which every satisfaction may be obtained ; 
 and the same with respect to the scenery around 
 the city. 
 
 We cannot conclude our account without 
 noticing the dignified conduct of Burns towards 
 a brother poet, Robert Ferguson, to whose me- 
 mory he erected a tomb-stone, in the Cannongate 
 kirk-yard; on which is the following inscription, 
 engraved under Burns' direction: 
 
 ROBERT FERGUSON, POET, ^ 
 
 Born, September 5tii, If 51; 
 Died, October l6th, IJJA. 
 
 No sculptured marble here, nor pompous lay 
 No storied urn, nor animated bust! 
 
 This simple stone directs pale Sc^tia*s way. 
 To pour her sorrows o'er her Poet's dust. 
 
 I 
 
50 
 
 On the other side of the stone is as follows: 
 
 By special grant of the Managers 
 
 To ROBERT BURNS, 
 
 Who erected this Stone, this burial place is ever to remain 
 
 Sacred to the Memory of 
 
 Eobert JFerguson* 
 
 < -^tf^T 
 
 e-^ ri:^f^^7 
 
 
ABEB.yELDi£ LOWER FALL. 
 
 \yA/%:/L y^.c//^.-./^./.; 
 
 J 
 
6^eA Atena fee 'Aa^ t^ ?/ ^ r^t f^/iY/t f/y 
 
 ::^L 
 
51 
 
 THE 
 
 BIRKS OF ABERFELDIE. 
 
 In the immediate neighbourhood of the village 
 of Aberfeldie, in Perthshire, is a deep wooded glen, 
 following the course of a mountain streamlet, 
 which wantons in Nature's wildest forms, among 
 chasms and excavated rocks. The beauty of the 
 scenery is heightened by the rich and luxuriant 
 foliage of the lofty fir and spreading ash, intermix- 
 ed with the taper hazel and the drooping birch; 
 which, moving with the gentle gales, breathe re- 
 sponsive murmurs to the sound of innumerable 
 cascades, that rush headlong down, and are col- 
 lected into two falls of considerable magnitude. 
 The approach to the falls is through a mazy and 
 intricate path, and cannot safely be attempted by 
 strangers without a guide. The frequent wind- 
 ings of the way produce an ever-changing variety 
 of grand and picturesque effect. In many parts 
 the rocks elevate their stupendous bulk in gloomy 
 majesty, emitting from their perforated sides 
 numerous rills, that stray among the entangled 
 roots of trees and shrubs, till they join the rapid 
 current, that winds its foaming course in the rude 
 
53 
 
 channel below. The dashing sound of the falls 
 is heard at a distance through the wood, and the 
 mind anticipates with awe the approaching scene. 
 Those unaccustomed to Nature in her wildest 
 dress, are not without reason, surprised to find 
 the poet Burns making choice of this place for 
 amorous assignations. But custom dissipates 
 every apprehension of danger, and a frequent 
 visiter can enter into the very spirit of his lan- 
 guage, when addressing his " bonnie lassie," he 
 says, 
 
 Let Fortune's gifts at random flee. 
 They ne'er shall draw a wish frae me; 
 Supremely blest, wi* love and thee. 
 In the birks of Aberfeldie. 
 
 Arriving at the lower fall, a grand display of 
 water meets the eye, and, looking downward, the 
 rushing of the stream, nearly forty feet below, aid- 
 ed by the savage scenery around, and the united 
 roarings of both the falls, creates a trepidation 
 not easily subdued. The alarm, thus excited, is 
 increased on the way to the upper fall: the as- 
 cent is, in many places, steep and slippery; the 
 din of waters becomes more powerful, and anxiety 
 is succeeded by consternation, when, on a sud- 
 den turn of the path, the cataract bursts at once 
 upon the sight. The dreadful force of the waters 
 is here seen, and the thundering noise occasioned 
 by their fall precludes the interchange of speech. 
 
6S 
 
 Bold, jutting rocks present themselves immediate- 
 ly in front, and are completely excavated into 
 an immense cauldron below, where the waters 
 fall, and rise again in continual mist to a consi- 
 derable height. This interesting scene is adorned 
 with noble trees, and others of smaller growth, 
 that spread their branches to the nutricious and 
 incessant moisture; the ground likewise is em- 
 bossed w^ith flowers, which imbibe the falling dew*. 
 But Nature spreads her sweets in vain, while 
 amazement retains full possession of the facul- 
 ties, and admiration is lost in wonder and as- 
 tonishment. 
 
,54 
 
 THE 
 
 VILLAGE OF KENMORE, 
 
 NEAR 
 
 TAYMOUTH, 
 
 THE RESIDENCE OF THE EAIIL OF EIIAIDALBIN, 
 
 The situation of the small, but increasing village 
 of Kenmore, is the most inchanting that can well 
 be conceived; simple in itself, it stands surrounded 
 by sublime and imposing scenery. From the emi- 
 nences of Taymouth, the country around is seen 
 in all its grandeur; and it is no wonder th.at Burns 
 should employ his muse in a tribute of praise, on 
 beholding a prospect so calculated to fix his at- 
 tention, and to call forth the powers of his mind. 
 Immediately behind Kenmore, when seen from 
 Taymouth, is Loch Tay, whose banks are covered 
 with w^ood, interspersed with corn-fields, and va- 
 riegated with the blushing blossoms of the heath, 
 umbrageous plantations, and matted underwood. 
 At intervals may be seen, though indistinctly, the 
 two roads leading to Killin, winding along the 
 borders of the lake. On the right hand, a bold 
 
iiililli'llnlli'lte, 
 
55 
 
 and richly-wooded hill presents itself; which, pro- 
 jecting its ample bosom, exults to see its varied 
 aspect reflected from the surface of the glassy 
 lake. On the left, in the extreme distance, is 
 Ben-More, the loftiest of the Grampian Hills; 
 and, on the extremity of the northern shore of 
 the lake, rises the majestic hill of Lawrs. An 
 attempt to describe the grounds of Taymouth 
 would carry us far beyond our intended limits; 
 the beauties of Nature and Art seem here com- 
 bined, and fully convey all that can be imagined 
 from the lani^uac^e of Burns. 
 
 Here Poesy might M^ake her heav*n-taught lyre. 
 
 And look through Nature with creative fire; 
 
 Here, to the wrongs of fate half reconcird. 
 
 Misfortune's lightcn'd steps might winder wild; 
 
 And Disappointment in these lonely bounds 
 
 Find balm to sooth her bitter, rankling wounds : 
 
 Here heart-struck Grief might heav'n-ward stretch her scan, 
 
 Aad injured Worth forget, and pardon man. 
 
$6 
 
 TffE 
 
 FALLS OF BRUAR, 
 
 The beauty of many of Burns' subjects consists 
 not only in the elegance of their diction, but in their 
 descriptive truth; indeed, so remarkahle was he 
 for this, that a tourist of great celebrity* observes, 
 ** that Burns seems to have made a poetical tour 
 through the country." This remark is fully exem- 
 plified in *'The humble petition of Bruar Water 
 to the noble Duke of Athol." No description 
 can be more correct, and it only remains for 
 us to convey some idea of the surrounding 
 scenery. 
 
 The Falls are on the grounds of His Grace the 
 Duke of Athol, and about four miles from his resi- 
 dence at Blair, in Perthshire. The Duke has in part 
 taken up the idea of the poet; and, if the situa- 
 tion is congenial to their growth, lofty firs, at some 
 future period, will raise their towering heads, and 
 shade the *Mowly banks" of the Bruar; but, at 
 
 • Campbell. 
 
JjJtl^A.K riTKR :KA3-1.. 
 /f//y-f,u/t///,y I'ff a ///r/t 
 

57 
 
 present, the young plants are so small, that they 
 rather injure than grace the view. It is to be 
 hoped that soon *' ashes cool" and " fragrant birks 
 in woodbines drest," will be added to the firs al- 
 ready planted; and then, and not till then, we 
 conceive, will the beautiful and romantic picture 
 which Burns has delineated be complete. 
 
 The entrance to the grounds is on the side 
 of the high road, close to the -banks of the Bruar, 
 over which the road is constructed. Immediate- 
 ly on entering, a walk presents itself, ornamented 
 with many beautiful cascades and rocks fantasti- 
 cally excavated; which, doubtless, created in the 
 mind of the bard the sensations expressed in thet 
 following lines; 
 
 " Here, haply too, at vernal dawn. 
 Some musing bard may stray. 
 And eye the smoking, dewy lawn. 
 And misty mountains grey; 
 Or, by the reaper's nightly beam. 
 Mild, chequering through the trees. 
 Rave to my darkly dashing stream. 
 Hoarse, swelling on the breeze." 
 
 Proceeding along this walk about a mile, 
 through scenes of the most wild and extravagant 
 description, and which receive additional sublimity 
 from the incessant murmuring of the various minor 
 falls of water, the hoarser clamour of the principal 
 
 H 
 
58 
 
 cataracts begin to be distinguished; and, on ad« 
 vancing, every feebler sound is graduully pre- 
 cluded. Water-falls of any considerable magni- 
 tude, with their general concomitants, are of the 
 most imposing nature, and fill the mind with ideas 
 which none but a poet can happily express. 
 
 The first, or lower fall, though inferior to the 
 upper one in height, on account of its greater 
 breadth, claims a decided preference. 
 
 Crossing the rapid stream by a bridge of 
 rude stone, the path winds its undulated course 
 through scenes of increasing grandeur, to the up- 
 per fall; here the Bruar precipitates itself from 
 a considerable height between immense rocks, 
 whose jutting points and shelvy breadths but ac- 
 celerate its speed; and, surmounting every ob- 
 struction, it rolls its headlong torrent to the deep- 
 worn chasm, with indignant roar. 
 
 The duke has erected in front of each of the 
 falls a commodious hovel, from which they may 
 be seen to great advantage. The land in the im- 
 mediate vicinity of the Bruar is remarkable only 
 for its steril appearance; which is perhaps in- 
 curable. We are inclined to believe that, if the 
 soil would admit of cultivation, the poet's la- 
 mentation, on behalf of the stream, would not 
 have been occasioned. 
 
i9 
 
 ^ A^ong these lonely regions, where, retir'd 
 From little scenes of art, great Nature dwells 
 In awful solitude." 
 
 A most Striking contrast is exhibited to the 
 highly-cultivated pleasure grounds of the nobility 
 and gentry in general. 
 
 ^rf»N^^^>/>^»<' 
 
60 
 
 THE 
 
 FALLS OF FYERS, 
 
 NEAR 
 
 The country in the vicinity of the river Fyers, 
 before its discharge into Loch Ness, strikes the 
 imagination of the beholder with the gloomy gran- 
 deur of the most retired solitude. The ascent to 
 the falls is over rugged precipices, and which, 
 but to gratify the curiosity of the traveller, would 
 scarcely ever be passed. Some years ago, a fir 
 tree was laid across, and formed a bridge over the 
 upper fall; but, owing to the death of the gar- 
 dener' belonging to the Laird of Fyers, who fell 
 from it into the dreadful abyss beneath, it was 
 removed, and an elegant bridge was built in its 
 stead, at the expense of a Mr. Fraser : the exe- 
 cution of this fabric is highly creditable to the 
 architect. 
 
 In order to see these falls to advantage, the 
 bridge must be crossed ; and descending a very 
 steep precipice, the view is obtained of the upper 
 fall, which we have engraved : — then following a 
 broken foot-path, immediately beyond the bridge, 
 the lower fall presents itself: 
 
f.tfnifj t>rrn a Hiintir^ hv NajTr^vrii 
 
 
 
 
 y//// ///>f> ' //tf ^,M /Ar uA/taa/tfft/'^ 
 
r It, 1,1- i r/rfj Jhuii. 
 
 iOWEB. PALL OF FYJERS . 
 
 ,yi^ JUe/z^ ^ttc^lcrt^ iM-c-y^^ j/ciM^v /i^/^^u^. 
 
61 
 
 Prone down the rock, the whit'ning sheet descends. 
 And viewless Echo's ear astonishM rends. 
 
 The body of water which, after great rains, 
 rushes down these falls, is immense : to form 
 some idea of it, Johnson says, ^* endeavour to 
 conceive the effect of a thousand streams, poured 
 from the mountains into one channel, struggling 
 for expansion in a narrower passage, exaspera- 
 ted by rocks rising in their way, and at last dis- 
 charging all the violence of their waters by a sud- 
 den fall through the horrid chasm." 
 
 Loch Ness, int6 which the river runs, is about 
 twenty-four miles long, and from one to two 
 miles broad ; it fills a large hollow between two 
 ridges of high rocks, being supplied partly by the 
 torrents which fall into it on either side, and 
 partly by springs at the bottom; its water is re- 
 markably clear and pleasant, and is imagined by 
 the natives to be medicinal : it is said to be in 
 some parts of the almost incredible depth of one 
 hundred and forty fathoms. 
 
 THE END. 
 
Printed by J. Swan, f^o. 76, Fleet Street. 
 
/Bos 
 

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