TRAVELS THROUGH O R T U G A L AND SPAIN, In* 1772 AND 1773. €ntcreb iu tfft ^alU^ook of tfft Company of ^tationetier. TRAVELS THROUGH PORTUGAL and SPAIN, I N 1772 AND 1773* B Y / RICHARD TWISS, Esq. F. R. S. WITH COPPER-PLATES; AND AN APPENDIX. he pueflo en la certidumbre de lo que refiero mi principal cuidado. Pref. a la Hift. de Mexico, dc Soli*. LONDON, Printed for the AUTHOR, And Sold by G. ROBINSON, T. BECKET, and J. ROBS ON. MDCCLXXV. P R E F A C E. Una de las cofas en que fe vee la grandeza del animo del homhre, y la parte mortal adonde afpiray es el no hallarfe contento, ni fatufecho en un lugar, procurando hartar fit defeo, inclinado a diverjidad de cofas^ rode- ando el mundo^ y tentando diferentes lugares para bur tar el cuerpo a los jafiti- dies de la vida. Difc. prelim, a la Araucana. The meaning of which is, " Nothing perhaps more evidently proves *' the greatnefs of the mind of man, and the immortality to which it *' afpires, than not finding ourfeives contented or fatisfied in one place, ■" but procuring the gratification of our defires, which are inclined to a " diverfity of objedts, by rambling about the world, and vifiting difFer- ■*' ent places, to fteal (as it were) ourfeives from the cares of life." AFTER having fpent feveral years in travelling through England, Scotland, Holland, Flanders, France, Switzerland, Italy, Germany, Bohemia, &c. the love of variety, or curiolity of feeing new things, ov'as ftill fo prevalent, that I determined to vifit Spain -and Portugal ; and I was the more eager, as I had -^never feen any fatisfadlory account of thole two king- doms, T 1059720 ii PREFACE. doms, promifing to myfelf the enjoyment of objects entirely novel, in countries which were imagined to be far behind the reft of Europe in arts and literature. The following fl^ieets contain the obfervations made in that tour ; they are publifhed as my firft attempt, and the ftridleft truth has been inviolably adhered to throughout the whole work.. In regard to the few levities upon the fubjed of fu- perftition, I have not endeavoured to ridicule the per- fons believing, but the objeds of their belief- for we cannot with reafon condemn mankind for differing in their opinions : we all feek for truth, but God only knows who has found it. If thofe parts of the work relative to painting be thought too prolix, all I have to offer in excufe is my attachment to that fcience. Almoft all the plates v/ere executed after my own fketches ; and I have feledled fuchfubjedls as have never before been publifhed. I cannot conclude this preflice with more propriety than with the following quotation from the beft book that PREFACE. Ill that exifts in the Spanifh language : " Es grandidmo el <' riefgo a que fe pone el que imprime un libro, fiendo *' de toda impofibilidad impofible componerle tal que *' fatisfaga y contente a todos los que le leyeren." Don Quixote, torn. iii. cap. Iv. Great RufTel -Street, Bloomfbury, March 26, 1775. DE- DESCRIPTION of thePLA T E S, TO face the title. A Map of Spain and Portugal. In this map the provinces have their proper titles and boundaries, the names are , rightly fpelt, the latitude and longitude (from London) of thofe cities, where aftronomical obfervations have been made, are exaft : no names are infertcd but fuch as belong to fome remarkable city, town, village, cape, mountain, or river. The places are marked where the cities of Numancia, Saguntum, Illiberia, and Italica exifted. My route is traced with parallel lines. The ornamental part reprefents a ftiield with the arms of Portugal, wind-mills, &c. P. 38. The fecond plate contains views of three of the moft remark- able Moorifh caftles : that of Alcobafa'm Portugal, and thofe of Almanfa and Sax, with a profpeft of the town of Ronda in Spain. P. 82. The third plate reprefents the aquedudt of Segovia (engraven from a large print which I procured at Madrid.) P. 112. The fourth is a copy of the pi(flure known by the name of our Lady of the Fijh, which is preferved in the Efcorial. P. 156. The fifth contains the notes of the Fandango, or national , dance. P. 240. The fixth plate is a profpedt of the Alhamhrii, or palace of the ancient Mooiifli kings in Granada. At one corner of the plate are two infcriptions faid to be Phoenician, and three in Arabic (one of which is on a round tile), all copied from thofe in this palace ; and three capitals of columns, according to the Moorifh architecture ; the laft column reprefents one of thofe which are in the Mefquita at Cordova. At the other corner is one of the gate-ways of the Albambra, P. 288. The fevcnth is the reprefentation of a bull-fight in the amphi- theatre of Cadiz, and fhews all the principal aflions of the bulls and combatants. The tail-piece reprefents the arms of Spain. . TRAVELS THROUGH PORTUGAL AND SPAIN. AFTER having waited eighteen days at Falmouth for a favourable wind, 1 embarked on board one of the packets, on the 12th of November, 1772, at four in the after- noon; and, on the 17th, early in the morning, we faw the Rock ; at one in the afternoon anchored in the Tagus, and land- ed at Lifbon at fix in the evening. This fpeedy pafTage made amends for the tedious delay inTalmouth. On landing, I was conducted to an Englifh inn, kept by one De War, on the hill of Buenos Ayres, where there is an or- dinary every day, frequented by E-nglifhmen, who refide in Lifbon for their health, and by members of the faftbry. Lifbon is pretty nearly in the fame ruinous flate it was the day after the earthquake in ly^^' Indeed there are many new build- B ings 2 TRAVELS THROUGH Ings carrying on, but the Ilreets are yet in various places flopped up by the ruins occafioned by that devaftation; which recalled to my mind the fimilar fituation in which Ihadfeen thecity of Dref- den, caufed by war and fire. This city is built on feven fteep hills^ and the flreets are very badly paved with fmall fharp ftones, which renders walking almoft impradllcable ; and at night, as there is no kind of light in thofe flreets, it would not be prudent for a flranger to walk about alone. A few days after my arrival, an Italian was murdered and robbed among fome of the ruins. About one fifth of the inhabitants of Lifbon confifts of blacks*, mulattoes, or of fome intermediate tint of black and white. The houfes are generally two florles high, fometimes three^. with no other chimney but that of the kitchen ; they are built of a kind of half marble *, with iron balconies, and wooden lattices to the ground floor, but are not remarkable for archi- tecture. Here is a theatre for Italian operas ; la Slgnora Anna Zam- perini, who was fome time in London, and whom I had before known in Turin, was the chief finger in the comic opera, and appeared daily on the flage, ornamented with three or four thou— fand pounds worth of jewels. * Prefque Marbre. The PORTUGAL. 3 The other theatre is for Portuguefe plays ; there are four rows of boxes, twenty-feven boxes in each row. The ItaHan houfe is nearly of the fame fize. I faw the tragedy of Dona Ignes de Caftro aded, with a farce called O Nao, or the Dwarf. The feats in the pit are appropriated folely to the men. The admit- tance money to the opera is a crufado novo, or two fliillings and eight pence half-penny. There are two long rooms, where the Britifh factory afiemble twice a week, during the winter, to dance and play at cards. The minuets compofed by Don Pedro Antonio Avondano, who lives here, are much efteemed. Any Britifh ftranger who does not intend to refide fix months in Lifbon is admitted gratis to thefe af- femblies ; but the fubfcription for the inhabitants is feven moidores for each room. I am informed that fince my departure both thefe focieties are united, and that a very large room is built for that purpofe. During the courfe of the winter there are four grand balls, with fuppers; to which many of the Portuguefe nobility are invited. Immediately after my arrival I waited on his excellency the honourable Mr. Walpole, his majefty's envoy extraordinary to the Portuguefe court. I am happy in thus publicly acknowledging the very great politenefs and kindnefs which I experienced from this gentleman, who does honour to his flation, and every obliging fervice in his power to all. I had the pleafure of being B 2 prefent 4 TRAVELS THROUGH prefent at feveral magnificent entertainments he gave to the fac- tory during my ftay in Lifbon. In the church of St. Rocco, is a chapel with three pieces in mofaic, made at Rome. The akar-piece reprefents the Baptifm by St. John, in which are feven figures as large as the life : on one fide is the Annunciation, which of courfe confifts of only two figures, and on the other fide the Gift of Tongues. The pave- ment of this chapel is likewife in mofaic, being a fphere, which is the arms of the Brafils. The altar itfelf is of filver, with figures in alto relievo. On and about the fpot where the royal palace flood, before it was demolifhed by the earthquake, there are many new ftreets building, interfering each other at right angles, parallel and ftraight, efpecially that called the Rua Augufta. On each fide of thefe new ftreets is a foot-path, elevated fomewhat above the pavement, and defended from carriages by ftone pofts. The houfes are four and five ftories in height. The exchange is finifhed, and is near the river, with porticos, under which the merchants affemble. This building forms one fide of an intended fquare, in the midfl: of which is to be placed an equef- trian ftatue of the prefent king. The pedeftal is, as I was told, of a fmgle ftone, that required eighty yoke of oxen to drag it from the quarry, about ivfo miles from the fpot where it now is. The PORTUGAL. ^ The arfenal is a very large building, though not quite finifhed. Slaves are employed in carrying the ftones, morter, &c. They are condemned criminals, and are chained by the leg in pairs. Near the arfenal is the fifh-market, which is a very commo- dious one, even fuperior to thofe in Holland. It is plentifully fupplied with fifh, moll of them unknown in England; but with neither falmon nor cod : the former of which, however, the inhabitants procure from Oporto, by men employed for the pur- pofe, who perform the journey in four days on foot, taking the fhorteft route, without regarding the common roads, and deliver each fifh at Lifbon for a moidore. The John dory is to be met with larger here than any on the weftern coafl: of England ; as, like- wife, are red mullets. I faw fome very large conger eels, and a fcate that meafured near feven feet from the head to the extremity of the tail. Near this market, are ahb fold vegetables, fruits, tortoifes, monkies, parrots, and Brafil birds. As in a late publication of a journey through Portugal, the author has inadvertently erred in the account of his fearch after the weflern Lifbon, I fhall here quote a paffage from a book printed at Amftcrdam in 1730, in French, entitled, a Defcrip- tioii of Lifbon. "' Lifbon was divided, about the year 1716, in two, under the «■*- names of the Oriental part, and Occidental part. This divificn " was 6 TRAVELSTH ROUGH ^* was made on occafion of the creation of the patriarch, whofe *' diocefe confifts of the occidental part, and the archbifhop ■*' has retained the oriental. Since this partition, the inhabi- " tants are obliged, under pain of nullity, to exprefs in all aits *' the part of the town in which they have paffed ; exa£l " merchants alio diftinguifti it in their bills of exchange, and *' in their letters." There has never yet been a plan of Lifbon publifhed. But four very finely engraved views of Lifbon and Bellem, were publifhed in London in 1756, by George Hawkins, on as many large fheets. The new books which defcrlbe Portugal are the following: Mappa de Portugal Antigo e Moderno^ in three volumes, fmall quarto, written by Father de Caftro, in Portuguefe, and printed at Lifbon in 1762. At the end is a table of the roads, with the diftances from place to place. In 1762, Don Pedro Rodriguez Campomanes, wrote a book in Spanifh, in one volume odavo, which he dedicated to Mr. Wall, entitled, Noticia Geografica del Reyno y Caminos de Portugal. I have alio a thin folio, written by Father do Prado, and printed at Lifbon in 1751, containing a defcription of the Royal PORTUGAL. 7 Royal Convent near Mafra, illuftrated with an elevation and two plans. This book treats chiefly of the ceremony of blefling the relics, and of the confecration of the church and altars, with a lift of the ornaments, plate, and veftments there made ufe of; in fhort, of every thing one does not defire to know. There is no news-paper or gazette In the Portuguefe language : they were prohibited in 1763. The Englifh, French, and Spanifh papers are in the cofFee-houfes, of which two are ex~ tremely elegant, efpecially that of Cafaco, which is pannelled with looking-glafles. The country about LIfbon Is agreeably diverfified with groves of orange and lemon trees, intermixed with olive and vine-yards. The roads are bordered with aloes, which make an uncommon appearance to a native of a colder climate when they are in flower, the ftem being then twelve or fourteen feet in height. Thefe aloes blow the fixth or feventh year. What Mr. Brydone fays of thofe of Sicily, is likewife juft in refpe£t to thefe. " As the whole *' fubftance of the plant Is carried into the ftem and flowers, the '* leaves begin to decay as foon as the blow Is completed, and *' numerous young plants are produced round the root of the " old ones," which wither and die*. Moft of the roads in the environs are paved with large ftones. Near the city, in the valley of Alcantara, is fituatedthe celebrated aquedu -^Ci 8 TRAVELS THROUGH aqucdudl which joins two hills ; the arches in this part are thir- ty-five in number, fourteen large ones, and twenty- one fmaller, the largeft of which is three hundred and thirty-two feet in height, and two hundred and forty-nine feet in width ; fo that St. Paul's church in London is only feventy-two feet higher. There arc ten fmaller arches nearer to the city, and many ftill fmaller near the fource of the water which fupplies this aquedu£l. This wa- ter is emptied into a great refervoir at one of the extremities ofLifbon. The whole pile was eredled in 174S; and happily received no damage from the earthquake in 1755. It is built of a kind of white marble. The pillars which fupport the arches arc fquare, the largefl; meafure thirty-three feet at each fide of the bafe ; fo that the breadth of this aqueduft is but a tenth part of its height, and confequently makes that height appear much more confiderable than it really is to a fpedator who flands un- der the great arch*. The patriarchal church flands on the top of one of the feven hills on which Lifbon is built j the great altar is placed under the dome, and has a baldachino, or canopy ' over it, fupported by four fpirally twilled columns of wood gilt, like that in St. Peter's at Rome. There is a very large organ with horizontal pipes in this church. Indeed all the organs 1 afterwards faw in this penin- fula (as the natives call Portugal and Spain) are built in the fixme manner. * In 1750, T. Bowles publiflied a view of this aqucdud^. The POrvTUGAL. 9 The 26th of November, being St. Cecilia's day, I went in the morning to the church of St. Rocco, to hear the mufical fun^do^ which lafted three hours. The mufic performed was of JomelH's compofition, and the band was placed as follows. The organ over the church door ; and in the organ-gallery were ten eunuchs from the king's chapel : on one fide were fixteen violins, fix baffes, three double bafTes, four tenors, two hautboys, a French horn, and a trumpet; and underneath them, about fixty voices for the chorufles ; and, on the other fide, were the fame number of vocal and inftrumental performers. The firft violin was played by Mr. Groeneman, a German, who was engaged to go with lord Clive to the Eafl Indies fome time ago, but left him at tlie Brafils, and came to LilLon, where he now is firft violin to the king. The whole concert was under the direction of the celebrated Mr. David Perez ; fome of whofe compofitions have been lately publifhed in London. The church was extremely crowded by perfons of each fex. High mafs was celebrated ; during which the women remained fquatted on the ground, having all white mullin veils, and black flk cloaks. As I am on the fubje£l of mufic, I muft mention the talents on the harpfichord of the lady of Mr. May, an Englifh merchant here. This lady equals any performer I ever heard on that inftrument, for the rapidity of execution, and the delicacy and taile with v/hich ihe plays the raoft difficult pieces : (he is C likewife lo TRAVELS THROUGH likewlfe well verfed in the theory of mufic. The harpfichord under her hands, was literally " By flying fingers touchM into a voice.'* I had likewife the pleafure of hearing Mr. Rodill, a Spaniard, whofe fkill on the German flute and hautboy is now well known in London. I alfo heard a Portuguefe young lady's performance on the mufical glafles, which were empty, but her fingers were occafionally dipped in water. I went on the 17th of November to the king's palace at Bellem, about five miles from Lllbon, and heard the Italian opera of Ezio performed there. The orcheflra confided of very accurate players. No ladies are ever admitted to this opera, neither are there any ailrefl'es ; but, inftead of women, they have eunuchs dreffed exactly as women are ; fo that, from the fl:age, they ap- pear to be really what they reprefent. But the dancing be- tween the ads being likewife by men with great black beards and broad fhoulders, drefied in female apparel, was a difgufting fight. Thejealoufy of the queen is faid to be the caufe of this, uncommon exhibition. Many of the priefls here are eunuchs. Miflon, who travelled in Italy in 1688, and there faw two priefis of the fame kind, gives the following account of them, which being tranflated,. runs thus : " You know that a prieft mufl: be a complete man : " it is a law without any exception. However, as it has been re-- " marked,, PORTUGAL. II *' marked, that that perfedlion of the body fometimes caufes a " difagreeable voice; and that, on the other hand, fweetnefs *' of voice is very neceflary to infinuate things into the mind, *' whether at church or at the opera, there has been found " a means of conciliating thefe difficuhies; and it has been re- " folved, that a priefl cut out for mufic, may exercife the facer- *' dotal fundtions, provided he has his neceffities, or, if you *' pleafe, fuperfluities, in his pocket." This theatre is fmall, and without any fide-boxes ; in the pit are ten benches without backs, behind which is the king's box. All the royal family were prefent that evening. The king him- felf, Don Jofeph I. is a well looking man, and is now (in 1772) fifty-eight years of age. The queen is fifty-four years. The king's brother, Don Pedro, who is fifty-five years old, married his raajefty's eldeft daughter, who has the title of princefs of Brafil, and is thirty-eight. They have a ion of eleven years, who is heir-apparent to the crown of Portugal, his title is prince of Beira ; and another fon and daughter. The king's other two ■daughters, the infantas Dona Maria Anna of thirty-fix, and Dona Maria Francifca Bencdidla, of twenty-fix years, were alio there, as that day was the anniverfary of the birth of the prin- cefs of Brafil. Thefe ladies were without caps, neither were they painted, but were ornamented with a great number of jewels. The opera be^an at feven, and ended at ten, and during the whole per- C 2 formance 12 TRAVELS THROUGH formance the moft ftrid filence was obfcrved by the audience ;• who between the adls role and flood with their faces towards the- royal family. The cardinal-patriarch fat in a fmall box appropriated to him- on the right hand of the king's box. Any well dreffed men are admitted gratis to this fpedlacle.. The palace of Bellem Is a very mean wooden edifice, and has nothing worthy of remark neither on the outfide nor in the .in- fide. There is not fo much as a fmgle pidlure from any of the Italian fchools in the whole kingdom of Portugal. What few pldures there were formerly in Lilbon, were deftroyed by the earthquake.. At the houfe of Meflrs. Purry and De Vifmes, is a picture painted by Van Loo, reprefenting the marquis of Pombal (who is prime minifter) fitting, of the natural fize, at a table covered with plans and elevations of buildings intended for Lifbon. The back ground fhows the Tagus down to Bellem, with fhips, ia which Jefuits are embarking, and is' painted by Vernet; the whole piece was executed in Paris two or three years ago. The proprietors have caufed a very fine copper-plate of it to be en- graven; and this is the only pi<^ure I ever. heard of at LifDon, . worth any notice. Neither.- PORTUGAL. 13 ' Neither have I been able to find any ftatues in Portugal, ex- aept two groupes in the royal garden at Bellem, expofed to the air very injudicioufly ; I could get no information about the name of the ftatuary, but was told they were fent from Rome : probably they are by il Cavalier Bernini, or perhaps by Algardr, being equal to any of the ftatues I faw at Rome of thofe two great fculptors. Thefe groups are of two figures each, as large as the life, and of white marble. One is the daughter giving fuck to her father, and the other is a woman fainting and reclin- ing within the arms of another woman. Thefe flatues " feemed to breathe, " And foften into flefli beneath the touch " Of forming art, imagination flufli'd." Thomson. They are indeed perfectly beautiful, and hitherto in good prei fervation ; pofiibly in fuch a fine climate as this is, they may re- main unhurt for ages; as the Farnefian Hercules, the Perfius of Cellini, and many other invaluable ftatues, both at Rome and at Florence, have done. In this garden 1 faw a very large elephant, being no lefs than twenty-two feet in height ; it is kept in a yard, partly covered, and partly expofed to the air, and is viewed from the top of the wall. The reft of the menagerie confifts of two lions, a leopard, and ten fine zebras, or wild alTes ; thefe latter are in one ftable •: feme of them were brought from Angola, the others are natives of. this place. They can never be fuftlciently broke to endure- a. bk( 14 TRAVELS THROUGH bit or a rein, though it was attempted, to enable fix of them to draw the prince of Beira's chariot. Near the palace of Bellem is a pillar ereded with an infcrip- tion, importing that this is the fpot whereon the late duke of Aveiro's palace flood ; he was executed for having fhot at the king in 1759, and the palace was erafed. The building of the church, of which the king laid the firft done, on the fpot where his majefty was fliot at, is difcontinued ; the walls are carried only to a few feet in height j indeed there are churches enough already. On the 6th of January, 1773, 1 rode on horfeback to the caftle of St. Julian, at the mouth of the Tagus, about fifteen miles from Lifbon. The road is paved the whole way, and ex- tends along the banks of this noble river. The weather was extremely fine and warm. To the left the grand view of the fhips failing various ways, the caflle of Bellem, the caftle of St. Julian, the immenfe rock called Cape Roquc, and at laft the ocean ; and to the right, groves of orange and lemon trees loaden with bloffoms as well as fruit, aloe and Indian fig-hedges, in- terfpcrfed with convents, churches, and olive yards, with the diftant prof^xd; of the oppofite fhore, contributed to render this one of the moft agreeable rides I ever enjoyed. Unfortunately there is no inn nor houfe of any kind to put up at, fo that I left my horfe to the care of one of the foldiers, whilft I was ob- ferving PORTUGAL. 15 ferving the caftle, and returned to Lifbon with a -keen appetite, which [ imagine was likewife the cafe with my poor beaft, after trotting thirty miles on a paved, rugged, and hilly road without baiting. The caftle of St. Julian Is an irregular pentagon, and is found- ed on the folid rock, the bafe of which is waflied by the fea. It is garrifoned with twothoufandand eighty men, as the officer w^ho accompanied me informed me ; but I much doubt the truth of this aflertion. It is planted with two hundred and five large brafs cannon, one of which is eighteen feet in length, and was made at Diu. Oppofite to this caftle is a fmaller one on an ifland, which, together with St. Julian's defends the entrance of this river. Another excurfion which I made was to the royal convent and palace of Mafra, about thirty miles from Liftjon. I fet out ear— ly in the morning, with a fervant, in a two- wheeled chaife drawn by a pair of mules : we ftopped about half way to refrefti our- felves, for we all mefled together, mules, driver, fervant, and felf, on provifions brought with us from Lifbon, as there was nothing at all to be had in this hotel. The road thus far is through a romantic country, producing orange, lemon, olive, mulberry, cyprefs, and palm trees, hedges of wild pomegranate, rofemary, jeffamines, aloes, prickly pear, bays, laurel, and myrtle. The country is well cultivated. I obferved eight oxea drawing^ one plough. Afterward the country " aflumes a,- Highland: j6 TP. AVELS THROUGH Highland appearance," and the inclofures are of loofe flones piled on each other, as in Derbylhire. To the left is the view of Cape Roque, and to the right the royal park, three leagues in circumference, environed by a wall of fifteen feet in height. The building itfelf is fituated near the fmall village of Mafra^ and is conftrudled of a kind of white marble. It contains thirty- fe%'en windows in front, and is nearly a fquare of feven hundred and twenty-eight feet. The church is placed in the center of this fabric, having the palace on one fide, and the convent on the other. There is a grand flight of flairs which projects one hundred and fifty-two feet into the fquare before the building. Under the portico, at the entrance, are twelve gigantic Italian marble flatues of faints, of tolerable workmanfhip. That of St. Sebaftian is extremely well executed. This portico is of two orders of archite£lure, each of fix columns, the firfl ionic, the other com- pofite. The ingrefs to the church is by five doors. The architect of the whole fabric was a German, John Fre- derics. It was begun during the reign of John V in 17 17, and finiflied in i'3i. There are three hundred cells in the convent, each of twenty palms, or feet, by eighteen; the kitchen is ninety-fix palms by forty-two : the new library is three hun- dred and eighty-one palms in length, and forty-three in breadth. In the whole building the printed account allures, that there are eight hundred and feventy rooms, and five thoufand two hundred 4l PORTUGAL. 17 hundred windows. The floors are of bricks, nicely laid. The palace is not furnifhed, as the king feldom refides here. Three or four of the rooms have chimnies ; and the late duke of York was lodged in thcfe apartments for a few days. On each fide of the church is a tower, or belfry, having each forty-eight bells, which form chimes, or w^hat the French call carillon^ and the Spaniards organo de las campaigns. The afcent to thefe towers is by one hundred and fixty-two fteps : and at each end of xhQfai^ade.^ the three laft windows are decorated with a fmall cupola. The church has a cupola of the Corinthian or- der, w^th a gallery round the infide of it. There are fix altars, over each of which is a marble baflb relievo ; and there are no lefs than fix organs in this temple. Some few pahitings are dif- perfed here, but they are only by obfcuie Italian maflers. The whole building is covered with a flat roof, which forms an agree- able terrace for walking. There are feveral handfome court- yards with porticos ; and behind the edifice is a pretty large garden. The inn at Mafra is the beft I met with in Portugal, out of Lifbon After having been to fee the chime- player, and examin- ed his mttfical bricks^ which are nothing but xhejiaccaio paftorakt I was agreeably entertained with feeing my landlord and land- lady dance the fandango^ to the mufic of the guitar. The per- fon who played on it ftruck merely a few chords in triple time, and beat time with the fame hand on the belly of the inflrumenl, D The i^ i8 TRAVELS THROUGH The dance itfelf is for two perfons, and much Uke the DutcH pliigge danfen. I imagine the Dutch, by having been fo long under the Spanifh dominion, have retained this dance, as well; as many other cuftoms. For inftance, the veils ; which are large fquare pieces of black filk, that the women, when walking, throw over their heads, and keep nearly clofed over their faces. The Spanifh name is velo^ the Dutch call itfaly. The cuftom of fmoking tobacco the inhabitants of the Netherlands have- probably alfo derived from the Spaniards. The pronunciation of the two languages in the harfli and guttural G, is exadly the fame. But to return to \}c^q fandango. Every part of the body is in- motion, and is thrown into all poftures, frequently into very in- decent ones. Stamping the time with the feet, and playing all the while with the cajlanetas^ which are a kind of fmall fhells of Ivory, or hard wood, of which two are rattled together in each hand. When they have not thefe inftruments, they fnap with:, their fingers and thumbs. The dancers approach, turn, retire,, and approach again ; the man with his hat on. I afterwards faw this dance to greater perfection on the ftage, to the muiic of the whole orcheftra. It feems the tune is always identically the fame. When thefe dancers were tired, and in a profufe fweat with the violence of the exercile, their place was immediately fupplied by another couple, as the room was by this time filled with moft of the decent people of the village, who having danced in their turns, I dilcUnrged the mufician, and pafled the remainder of. PORTUGAL. 19 of the evening in playing a rubber at whift with my landlady, her hufband, and herTifter. I muft not omit, that before the danc- ing I had for fuppcr an excellent roailed fowl with bacon and fallad, yickXtd. fardinhas (a kind of fprats), with eggs, cheftnuts, apples, and oranges ; and afterward flept comfortably on a feather-bed. Thefe good accommodations are owing to the member s of the Engliflh fadory making frequent excurfions to Ma^- fra on parties of pleafure, during their fummer refidence at C:ntra, The next day I returned to Lifbon by the fame road, fo weli pleafed with this jaunt, that a few days after I made another to Cintra on horfeback. The road is paved all the way from Lif- bon, being about eighteen miles. I went to the Englifli inn, as it is called, though kept by a Turinefe ; and it is a very good one. I immediately mounted a jack-afs, of which numbers are to be hired here, and after three quarters of an hour's continual winding afcent, I found myfelf on the top of a high mountain, called Cako de Penha ; on the fummit of which is a fmall con- vent, which was at that time inhabited by eleven poor Jero- nymite monks. I had no barometer to compute the height of this mountain, neither could I get any information from thefe ignorant wretches. This place is inacceffible but by the road the burro * carried me. The profpedl is boundlefs, comprehending the beautiful quintas (or country houfes) at the foot of the mountain, the palace of Mafra at a great diftance, the expand- -ed ocean, the Tagus, and the continent as far as the eye can carry. * Jack-afs , «. D 2 Udal 20 TRAVELS THROUGH Udal ap Rhys in his account of this place fays, " Here was «< an ancient temple called Templuni Luna, and there being fome ♦' fimilitude between the name Cintra and Cynthia, it is imagin« " ed that the firft is only a corruption of the fecond," &c. He farther fays, " The height and romantic form of this moun- " tain, the prodigious breaks and cavities, and the vaft mafles " of projedling and impending rocks, enriched with fhrubs, or " ennobled by tall and luxuriant trees, render it one of the moft *' furprifing and agreeable objeds in the world." And fo itcer-- tainly is. " Here Nature's quiet wonders fill the mind." I defcended this mountain on foot near half way down, then- mounted my afs, and was carried in an hour and a half to tha adjacent mountain, called Cape Roque, or the Rock of Lifbon,, which is the moft. weftern point of the European continent, and bears latitude- 38° 45'. On the top of it is fituated a convent, wherein, at that time, twenty-two monks lived. It is commonlv called the Cork convent by the Englilh, this place being fo, damp, that every part in it is covered with cork, which grows. here in great abundance. Mr. Baretti has given an accurate de- fcription of it. The hermits were as fociable as when he was with them, " and helped us to our glafies very br-ifkly." I re- mained with them till late in the evening and by moon-light re-, turned in two hours to the inn at Cintra, being carried with the. greateft fafety over loofe pieces of rock, and on the brink of pre-, cipices and fteep defcents, by my afs, which was fo furc-footcd,, th$ifc PORTUGAL. 2 1 ihat it never made a falfe flep. The cold this night was intenfe ; it was on the loth of January, the moon was full, and not a fingle cloud was to be feenj the fliallow waters were frozen, the ice being near an inch in thicknefs, but it melted the next day as foon as the fun had been a few hours above the horizon. Mr. Baretti gives a Ihort account of the remains of the Moorifli palace in Cintra, but I did not fee the infide of that building. The next day, after two hours and a half riding on the road: to Lifbon, I ftruck out about a mile to the right, to fee the palace called Caluz, belonging to Don Pedro, the king's bro- ther and fon-in- law. It is built of wood, and is two (lories high,. The furniture is extremely elegant, and quite new, in the French tafte. The audience faloon is floored with marble, and pannelled with looking-glaffes. Seven very large china- vafes are placed on each fide of it, The concert-room is two hundred feet in length, and its ceil- ing is very magnificent, being of white ftucco, with a profufian. of gilding. In one room, the hiftory of Don Quixote is reprefented in eighteen compartments. In another, are various pieces, whim- fically rcprcfenting young children quite naked, except fome. ornament which they have got on. One of them has a bag to bis hair,, and a fword girt about his naked loins, with a cane in bis hand: he gallants his companion, who wears amufrand. tippets, 22 T "RAVELS THROUGH tippet, and a pair of high-heeled fhoes ; her hair is powdered, flic is decorated with a necklace and ear-rings, but is in other re- fpe£ts naked. All thefe ludicrous pieces are intended only as furniture, and as fuch, greatly enliven the apartments. There is a large garden behind this palace, with a labyrinth, and orange and lemon groves. After having refreflicd myfelf with fome of thefe fruits, juft plucked from the trees, I re- mounted my horfe, and returned to Llfbon, amply fatisfied with what I had fcen. Strolling one day about Liihon in fearch of new objeds, I was witnefs to an uncommon fcene, which was of two men fitting in the ftreet, having each of them a large baboon on his fhoul- ders, freeing his head from vermin, with which it fwarmed. The baboons were very dexterous, and are the property of a man who gains his livelihood by thus employing them, exact- ing a vinten^ or about three halfpence per head, for cleanfing it. It is very common to fee numbers of people fitting in the fun, with their heads in each other's laps alternately, having their " retinue abridged. ' They feem indeed to be the loufieft people I know of, efpecially the women, who have an enorm- ous quantity of hair. This dirtinefs, however, is only to be im- puted to the lower clafs of people. I made enquiry about the ftate of the Portuguefe navy and army, and was informed that the latter confifled of thirty-eight regiments PORTUGAL. 23 regiments of foot, of eight hundred and twenty-one men each, including officers ; and of twelve regiments of cavalry, of four hundred horfe to each. The horfes are of different fizes and colours, and make a very, uncouth appearance. The navy confifts of eleven men of war, and four frigates. Four of thefe veflels are commanded by Britifh captains ; in the army are likewife a great number of Britifh officers, who are moflly pro- teilants and Scotchmen. The chief order of knighthood here, Is called the order of Chrifi. It was inflituted by Denis their fixth king, in 1283. This order Is given to almoft any one, provided he be a Roman catholic, and is fo very common, that it is almofl a difgrace to accept of it, though his Portuguefe majefly wears the injignia of it himfelf. I have feen a valet de chambre, the keeper of a billiard table, and a muficlan, decorated with thofe infignia ; vrhich are, a ftar on the left breafl, and a fmall enamelled red crofs, charged with another vA\\X& one, hanging by a ribbon at. the button- hole. The other order, Is that of v^'u/V, inftltuted In 1 147, byAl~ fonfo, their firfl king. The knights wear a fmall enamelled green crofs fleurie, at the button-hole. Nobility is not hereditary in this kingdom ; the king con-- fers the titles of earl, marquis, duke, &c. In the fame manner as knighthood is conferred In England. Frequently the fon has 54 TRAVELS THROUGH has a title, and the father none. The only duke at prefent, ex- cepting the king's brother, who is duke of Braganza, is the duke of Cadaval. The Portuguefe money confifts of twelve golden coins, {even filver, and three copper. Accompts are kept in reis, which is an imaginary denomination. The par is 6y {d. fterling for a thoufand reis : according to which the fterling value of their coins is nearly as follows. Gold Coins, A five moidore piece, which is 24000 reis is >r. 6 15 o A two and a half moidore piece 12000 3 7^ A double Johannes - - 12800 3 12 o Thefe three pieces were prohibited being coined anew in 1732, by king John V. A Johannes, as it is commonly called, 6400 i 16 o A half ditto - _ - - 3200 o 18 o A quarter ditto - - - 1600 090 An eighth ditto -- - 8co 046 A moeda de ouro, which means literally a coin of gold, and is commonly called a moidore, A half ditto - - - A quarter ditto _ - - A cruzado novo^ or new crown, -jV of a Johannes, or an old crown. 4000 I 7 2400 13 6 1200 6 9 480 2 81 400 2 3 Moft s. ^. 480 reis is 2 8'r 240 I 4V I20 8r 6o 4t5 100 H 50 2't PORTUGAL. 25 Moft of thefe coins are well known in England, as they were there current till very lately. The feven Silver Coins are, A new crown of - - - - A half ditto, or twelve vm/e?2s, which is twelve times twenty reis A quarter ditto, or fix vintens An eighth ditto, or three 'vhitens A tojldbt or teftoon - - - A half ditto _ _ _ A vinten. This is a Brafil coin, and is as fcarce as our penny - - - 20 o ly The copper coins are a piece of 10 reis, a piece of 5, and a piece of 3 reis. The Portuguefe book, called Mappa de Por^ tugal, mentions the exiflence of another fmall piece, half the value of the laft mentioned coin, but they are fo fcarce that I was not able to procure even the fight of one of them. An EngliHi guinea paffes in Lifbon for 3600 reis, which is 134 reis, or nine pence, lefs than the value; a crown paffes for 8co reis, which is H9 reis, or fix pence, lefs ; and a fliilling for 160 reis, which is i8 reis, or five farthings, lefs than the v/orth. Thus £.100 fterling is 355,556 reis, and jog, 000 reis is j^. 28 2j. 6d. In cloth meafure, a vara is 43Mnches Englifli, and a covedo is 26^- inches. It 26 TRAVELSTHROUGH It is very difficult to afcertain the number of inhabitants ih' Lifbon. The diflFerent foreign fadtories are not numbered with: the natives. The Englifh fadlory alone is computed at fix hun- dred fouls. The Dutch and German fadories confift alfo of a- very great number of perfons. In 1716, pope Clement XL declared, in a confiftory, that the atteftations fent to him from Lifbon, afferted, that only the weftern part of that city contained near three hundred thoufand inhabitants. The French book before mentioned; printed in 1730, gives two hundred and fifty thouiand fouls for the number. In 1739J Antonio de Oliveria Freire, in his Cliorographical De- fcription of Portugal, attributes no lefs than eight hundred thou« fand inhabitants to Lifbon. In 1754, the atteftations fent to Rome, in order to procure hulls^ afligned fix hundred thoufand inhabitants to the metropolis. The earthquake, v\'hich happened the following year, is faid by fome to have deftroyed fifteen thoufand perfons, by others, twenty-four thoufand, and by others feventy thoufand ; indeed, it is impofiTible to calculate this lofs exaQly, which, however great, is at prefent not fenfibly perceived ; fo that I fliould ima- gine, Lifbon may with propriety be clafled among the firft ratq cities, PORTUGAL. 27 cities In Europe for fize and populoufnefs, and poffibly may be ranked as the fourth, the other three being London, Paris, and Naples. The Englifli fadory has a burying-ground in one of the fkirts of the city, planted with walks of cyprefs trees, under w^hich are the graves, where I had the mortiiication to fee many marble monuments with long, pompous, flattering infcriptlons, creded to the memory of fome of the merchants, their wives, and their children ; whilft the great author of Tom Jones is here interred, without even a ftone to indicate, that " Here lies " Henry Fielding" The garden of the convent Tias NeceJJidades, immediately un- der the hill of Buenos Ayres, is a very fine one, and is open to the decent part of the public. The king's hot-houfes in his gar*- den of Nojh Senhora de Ajuda^ or our Lady of Help, near Bel* lem, are alfo well worth notice. The ceilings are very neatly painted in frefco. The chief gardener is an Italian. In an- other neighbouring royal garden is an exceeding large man- drake tree. The Portuguefe nobility Is divided into three claffes. When the Ecuyer on horfeback rides before a carriage, the Lifbon Etiquette denotes it to belong to the firft rank ; the Eaiyer\ .riding on one fide fliows the fecond rank ; and when he rides behind he belongs to the third clals of nobility. Mofl of the car- E 2 riages 28 I TRAVELS THROUGH riages are two-wheeled, though on gala days there are many four-wheeled coaches and chariots ufed, efpeclally by the am- baffadors and minifters. It is alfo cuftomary for the gentlemea to fit uncovered in their carriages, but a fervant returning in one is obliged to fit covered, by which means the perfons fitting in other carriages which meet or pafs it, are betrayed into no im- proper falutation. The faddles ufed here are like our nja?iege demi-piquesy the ftirrups are wooden boxes, which appear very aukward. Swords are only worn by well-dreffed people, and all orna- ments of gold or filver lace, or enibroidery, are prohibited to be worn on the clothes of the Portuguefe of both fexes. Their filk clothes are fometimcs elegantly embroidered with filk of a different colour, and many jewels are dlfplayed on gala days. Topazes are very plentiful here, and are ex^ tremely well fetj but their filverfmiths' w.orkmaafhip is very clumfy. The kingdom of Portugal produces corn, oil, wine, oranges four and fweet, lemons, citrons, pears, apples, cherries, figs, damafcenes, peaches, apricots, grapes, melons, chefnuts, al- monds, nuts, medlars, walnuts., hafelnuts, filberds, alfcrrobczf fjiliqua*jy medronhos (urbutus-\)., mulberries, truffles, cab- * A kind of fweet acorn. t Strawberry- trees. bages> PORTUGAL, 29 5ages, turnips, cauliflowers, &c. v/ith various medicinal and aromatic herbs and flowers. The quadrupeds are the fame as in England. The birds are, cocks and hens, pigeons, geefe and turkies. Thefe lafl; are called Peril in Portuguefe, as the birds were originally imported from the country of the fame name. The fifti are falmon, foles, tench, lampreys, dorados^ tunny, mullet, John dorie, fardinhas^ fturgeon, trout, barbel, whiting, roach, congers, eels, carp, lobflers, oyfters, and a great variety of other forts. There are fome few iron mines in this kingdom. It is faid that in 1528, a filver mine was difcovered near Braganca, but it was never worked. The ancients celebrated the golden fands of the Tagus ; and the Portuguefe affirm, that king John III. had a- iceptre made of the gold found in that river: Duarte Nunez, in his Defcription of Portugal, fays, that this fceptre is yet pre- ferved in the royal treafury. Several copper-mines were likewife difcovered in the laft century, but I could never hear of any be- ing worked at prefent. Some magnets are found near Gintra : amber is fometimes met with on the coaft, near Setubal. Tur- quoifes, amethyfts, hyacinths, cryftals, talc, and mercury are alfo produed in Portugal. Here are many ftone and marble quarries ; and the fabric of fait is very conflderablc. The Tagus is navigable but a little way above Lifoon, oc- cafioned by its running betvreen inacceflible rocks, and its cur- rant is broke by many rapid cataracts. A company of Dutch- men j, 30 TRAVELS THROUGH men, in the reign of Charles II. offered to trace roads over the rocks, and to make dikes and fluiccs which would facilitate the paflage of boats from Lifbon quite to Madrid, as they propofed to render the river Man^anares, which empties itfelf into the Tagus, alfo navigable. They required the revenue which was to amount from the taxes to be levied on goods thus conveyed by water. Several councils were accordingly called in Madrid and Lifbon : the conclufion of their deliberations (ac- cording to Colmenares) was this : " If God had been willing to have thofe two rivers navigable, " he did not want the afTiftance of men to render them fo, be- *' caufe he was able to produce that great effe£l by a fmglejiat. *' Now, as he has not done it, it follows, that he did not think *' proper to do it, fo that it would be contradiding his provi- " dence to endeavour to redify what he appears to have left im- " perfed, for reafons known to himfelf." Thus vaniihed this ufeful project in confequence of this phi- lofophical determination. A fimilar method of reafoning feems to be ufed by the Minor- quins ; who, as Mr. Armftrong writes, " never prune a tree *' (the vine excepted), thinking it irreligious in fome degree to *' prefume to diredl its growth; and if you exprefs your won- ** der that they forbear this ufeful pradice, and inform them of ** the advantages that attend it in other countries, their *' anfwer PORTUGAL, 31 **. anfwer Is ever ready, God knows bejl how a tree jhould •' groiv" Tobacco is not allowed to be cultivated in any part of Portugal or Spain under pain of death. All kinds of it, as well as fnufFs, ex- cepting tliofe which come from theBrafils, are ftri£tly prohibited. The tobacco is of two forts, the one in dry leaves, the price is 4 J-. b d. or 800 reis per pound ; the other rolled up in pieces of an inch thick, and five or fix inches long. This fort is very black, wet, and ftinking, and fells at about half the price of the other fort. The fnuff is of the fine duft, known in England by the names of Spanifh and Brafil fnuffs : thefe are fold only af the royal tobacco office. Since my departure from LilTaon, I am informed that there is a royal fabric for rappe ere£led. Saint Anthony of Padua was formerly the generaliflimo of the Portuguefe army ; his appointments were three hundred thou- fand reis, or >C S4' ?•''• ^ ^A per annum; but lately the Count de la Lippe fupplled the faint's place, and a year ago, as the count is retired to his eftate in Germany, a Scotch gentleman of the name of Maclean, vi?as appointed general in chief and governor of Lifbon. This gentleman, who has been in the Portuguefe fervice fince the year 1763, was formerly governor of Almeida, and of the whole province of Beira, and is in every refpe£t worthy of the high dignity to which he is raifed. The Britifh officers here have the fame pay as in the Englifti fer- vice., which is double that of the Portuguefe, I paid. 32 TRAVELS THROUGH I paid a vifit one evening to the Englifh nunnery of St. Bridget, in Llfbon, and found the ladles, who were at that time twenty-two in number, very chatty and entertaining. Tiie reader will pleafe to obferve that the grate was between them and me. There is another Englifli nunnery at Bellem near Lifbon, which I did not vifit. The windmills in this kingdom, as well as thofe of Spain, arc about feven feet in height, and of a very fimple conftrudlion. The mlll-ftone lies horizontally, and the fails almofl: touch the ground. An excellent convenience for Don Quixote, who would have found it a difficult matter to have encountered a Dutch v;indmill, the fails of which are fometimes forty or fifty feet above the ground. The ladles here ride on burros^ or jack-affes, with a pack- faddle. A fervant attends them with a fharp ftick, to make the beaft go fafler when neceflary : if it goes too fafl:, he flops it by pulling it by the tail. Gentlemen ride on horfes, fer- vants on mules, as likewife do thofe phyficians who have no carriages. There was a wooden theatre, or circus, eredled for the bull- fights when I was at Lifbon, but as I did not fee any there, I fhall defer the account of them till I defcribe thofe which I faw in Spain. 1 was informed that here they place wooden knobs on the horns of the bulls on thofe occafions. lu PORTUGAL. 33 In one of the fuburbs of Lifoon Is a convent, over the door of which the arms of England and Portugal are hewn in ftone-, party per pale, the lion and unicorn for fupporters, with the royal crown on the top. I could get no information on what occafion this ornament was placed there. A new public walk is now planting at Lifhcn; at one end k a fine profped of the gallows, and at the other end is the /lote/ of the inquifition. I am happy in Informing my readers that the pow-er of this infernal tribunal is very much diminifh- ed, and that no perfon has fufFered death on a religious account during thefe lafl; fourteen years, either In this kingdom or that of Spain, aiitos dafc being quite abolirtied, though the Inquifi- tion may poflibly be yet ufed as a flate-trap, in order to fqueeze fome of the over-rich. The drefs of the men, among the common people, is a large cloak and flouched hat ; under the cloak they commonly wear a dagger, though that treacherous weapon is prohibited : the blades of fome of thefe will ftrike through a crown piece. The women wear no caps, but tie a kind of net-work filk purfe ovex* their hair, with a long taflel behind, and a ribbon tied In a bow-knot over their forehead. This head-drefs they call redc- cilla^ and It is worn indifcriminately by both fcxes. The Lon- ■ '/7*S PORTUGAL. 39 pafled the night here, and in the morning breakfafted on hot wine, boiled with fiigar and a dozen yolks of eggs. This food is very nouriihing, and I continued to ufe it till the hot weather came on. February i. This morning Baptifte bought half a dozen live fowls, which he killed immediately, and ftripped off the feathers in the chaife. We proceeded for five hours till we came to a vettta *. The weather was exceffively cold and windy. Five hours more brought us to Alcobaga. The roads were fo bad, that the chaife was fupported by a man on each fide, though we had alighted, and walked moft part of the way. The mules go at the rate of three and a half, or four Englifh miles an hour, fo that one may walk till tired, and then get into the chaife again. I amufed myfelf daily with my gun, though, there is very little game near the roads. On a hill near this village, is an old Moorifh caftle, now ruined, built of large rough ftones, with very thick morter, a view of which is givea. in one of the plates in this work. * A 'ucnia is a lone houfe, eftablifhcd by public authority, for the con- venience of travellers. Thefe hovels are frequently fituated at the diflance of eighteen or twenty miles not only from each other, but from any other houfes. In them the prices of the accommodations are regulated monthly by government. The landlord is obliged to fix the paper v/ith the taxation in fome confpicuous part of his houfe ; accordingly, he partes it on the higheft part of the roof, fo that it cannot be read without the affiflance of ai tele/cope,. EeB; 40 TRAVELS THROUGH Teb. 2. I here villtcdtlie royal convent, delivering a letter to the fuperlor, which I had brought from Lifbon. This convent is of tlie order of St. Bernard, and was founded in 1151, by Dou Alfonlb Henriqucs, king of Portugal. The front confifts of the church, whicii is fituated in the middle of the convent. The lat- ter has eighteen windows on each fide, and is two florics in height. A noble flight of fteps leads up to the church, which is two hundred and thirty-eight feet in length. The roof is fupported by twenty-fix marble pillars. Here is a fine organ, with one hundred and_ feventy-three horizontal pipes : two fe- pulchres of marble, with bad baflb relievos, contain the bo- dies of Don Pedro I. and his queen; Sancho T. and Alfonfo IL and III. are likewife buried here. Behind the great altar are eight fmall chapels. Here are at prefent one hundred and thirty monks, who are all noblemen, and have each a fervant, which, with the cooks and gardeners, amount to above three hundred perfons to be maintained ; fo that it is not to be wondered at that it is as difficult to procure an egg or an onion for many miles round, as it would be if one travelled by land fromPeterf- burgh to Peking ; for this great gulph fwallows up every thing. The revenue of this convent amounts to 1 80,000 crufados per annum, or/,'. 24,375. . Round the cornice of a large hall are the ftatues of twenty of the kings of Portugal as large as the life, made of plaifter, and painted with the natural colours : and there is room for fix more. In the garden of the cloifter are four ^'«ry Jarge orange trees, with lemons grafted in them. The facrifty was PORTUGAL. 41 was thrown clown by the great earthquake, but is now rebuilt. I was here fhcwn a golden chalice, very curioufly carved and in- laid with precious ftones; and in the library I faw £fl/^£»rt'///f's Virgil^ and Foul/Vs Honwr, both which books were prefented by George Pilt, efq. The kitchen is very large, and all tiled : the chimney ftands in the center, the funnel of which is thirty-four feet long and thirteen feet broad, and is fupported by eight iron pillars. Un- der this funnel are a great number of caldrons of different fizes. A fmall rivulet is made to run through this kitchen, the conve- nience of which need not be pointed out ; and feven cooks are conftantly employed. The rabbit-warren Is adjacent to the kitchen, and is a very fingular one. It is a large area, paved with fquare marble flabs, and walled in ; feveral rows of low Iheds are built, in parallel lines, from one end to the other ; and under thefe are placed five thoufand earthen pots, with lids, and furniflied with flraw, hav- ing a hole in one fide to admit the conies, which confequently are all tame. At one end of the area is an inclofure to feparate the young from the bucks occafionally. They are readily caught by the hand, on lifting off the lid of the pot. Adjoining to the warren, flands the pigeon-houfe, which is circular. A round column fupports the roof; the infide is full of earthen pots, in which the pigeons build their nefts. G There 42 TRAVELS THROUGH There are twenty-four rows of thefe pots, one hundred and' twenty in each row ; and round the cokimn, in the middle, are- likewife twenty-four rows, each containing twenty- four pots : the total number of which is three thoufand four hundred and: fifty-fix. Behind the convent are the gardens, which produce all kinds, of fruits and kitchen ^(lufF: and round thefe are olive and vine- yards, and groves, " Where the lemon and the piercing lime, " With the deep orange, glowing thro' the green, *' Their lighter glories blend.'* Thomson's Summer,, The vauks under the convent, are very large, and filled with, various kinds of wines : and in their flables are feveral hundreds of mules, for thefe worthy fathers to take the diverfion of rid- ing. I dined and fupped with about twenty of the fuperior friars, in a private room; the others all dined in the refed:ory ;-, and in the evening the bottle went as brilkly about as ever I faw it do in Scot/and; fo that with the aid of fome mufical inftru- ments, we fpent a very agreeable day. Soon after midnight I: retired to my inn, though much prefled to take a bed in the convent. If I had accepted it, I iliould probably have paffed a week with thefe jovial companions^- from whom I parted with . great regret, but fliall always retain a grateful fenfe of their un-- affedled politeuefs and frauknefs. This convent is the moil mag- nificent; PORTUGAL. 43 mficent and the richeft I know ; and its inhabitants compofe the mofl agreeable body of ecclefiaftics I ever had the pleafure of being acquainted with. Feb. 3. Early in the morning I fet out for Batalha, through olive grounds and cork forefts, the road being pretty good. We pafled by a Moorifli caftle to the right, at fome dif- tance. I immediately waited on the fuperior of the monaflery here, ■with a letter given to me by the gentlemen of Alcoba9a. It is alfo a royal convent, founded in 1426, by Don John I. The church is a very fine Gothic building, much like King's College chapel in Cambridge, and is feventy-one paces in length. The roof is fuftained by fixteen columns of marble. In a circular chapel is Interred king John I. with his queen Phllippa, (who was eldeft daughter to the duke of Lancafter, uncle to king Richard II. of England, and was given in marriage to king John I. in 1386, at Oporto) in a marble fepulchre, his right hand locked In her's. Their arms are engraven at one end of the tomb. Her's are quarterly the royal arms of England, charg- ed with a label of three points, and argent a crokj'able, encircled with the Garter, Four of their fons are interred in as many fmall tombs placed In the v/all. In this chapel are eight fmall pieces of painting on wood, much In the ftyle of Albert Durer. King Edward and his queen are buried near the great altar. Their figures arc very clumfily cut in ftone, and lie hand in hand. G 2 The 44 TRAVELS THROUGH The corpfe of king John II. is preferved in a wooden cheft, to which there is an afcent by fevcral fteps. In another chapel, which is a cube of twenty-three paces>. are buried^ in two cherts, Alfonfo V. and his fon who died [4S1. The roof of this chapel is vaulted in the fhape of a ftar, with eight points, and is without fupport. In another chapel is a very handfome monument, eredled to. the count of Miranda, ia 1 740 ;. and made in Italy. It is a fquare tomb of black marble, with yellow veins, fupported on the backs of three lioas of yellow marble, couchant on three black marble cufliions. On each fide is a death's head, with a naked weeping boy of white marble ; and on the top is his co- ronet lying on a cufhion. The cloiflers form a fquare, confifling of feven arches on each, fide. In the center is a well, and at each corner a large orange tree. Behind the church is a fpacious odagon chapel without a roof, as it was left unfinifhed. The carving in flone is very fine, and in the Gothic manner. The walls are ornamented with fmall baflb relievos of two branches intertwined,, in the mldft of which are the following Gothic chaw t2V3.S \ raders 1^ ^P ) this is repeated thoufands of times, though in fome PORTUGAL, 45 feme parts the charaders are placed thus ( ^^JZ ) the meanhig of which is unknown. This convent is of the Dominican order, and contained for- merly one hundred and eighty monks, though at prefent no more than forty-eight refide here : they are all noblemen. The revenues are only eight thoufand crufados per annum, i. e^ about a thoufand guineas. I declined pafFing the night in thl3 convent, as I faw they had little or nothing to eat, and lefs to drink, becaufe they are but three leagues diftant from the Alco- bayan monks, who are in poffeffion of all the good things, and feem to have divided the circumjacent lands according to the Montgomery equity, " iout d'un cote & rien de /' autre" There is no inn nor venta here, fo that I proceeded to Leyria, which is only two leagues farther. The roads were very muddy. I procured an afs and a guide, and rode over a fmalL hill, leaving the chaife to follow at leifure. Leyria is a pretty large town, and poireiTes a Moorifh caflle on a hill, but nothing elfe worthy of obfervation. Near this town is a glafs manufactory carried on by an Englifliman. Feb. 4. We proceeded five leagues to Pombalj a fmall vil- lage which gives title of marquis to the prefent prime minifter of Portugal. The inhabitants are chiefly hatters. We dined this day by the fide of the road, turning the mules atnd horfe loofe to graze ; and fpreading our provifions on the ground; 46 TRAVELS THROUGH ground. Thefe confifted of cold fowls, hard eggs, ham, cheefe, and bread, together with water-creffes, of which we had " flript the brook" on our way. The boracha, which is a leathern bag, and was filled with wine, went merrily about. Mine held four gallons. It was regularly filled every morning, and as re- gularly emptied. The wine is chiefly whhe, and coPcs about four pence a quart. I climbed up a high hill near Pombal, to infpedl aMoorilli caftle, the v^-alls only are {landing ; the infide was full of rue, which had grown to a very great height. The country we went through this day was chiefly olive-grounds and corn-fields. Feb. 5. Seven leagues march this day brought us to Coim- bra, having dined at the village of Pondes, For the laft two leagues the road is paved, and bordered by olive and pine trees. Coimbra is an univerfity, and is fituated on a hill, near the river Mondego, over which is a very long and lov/ bridge, with a great number of arches of different fiz.es. Five Englifh fami- lies refide here, one of them is that of a phyfician. This city is celebrated for its curious cups and boxes of turned horn. Feb. 6. On a hill in Coimbra, is a church with a cupola, of very good architcdture, plain and fimple. In the church of Santa Cruz is a painting over the great altar reprefenting the afTumption of a female faint. It is here attributed to Raphael ; it appeared to me to be a very good Italian pidure, but it was fo dark that I could not afcertain the truth of the above afl'er- tion. PORTUGAL. 4^ tion. I obferved alfo a large organ with horizontal pipes in this church. Here is an aquedud of twenty arches, which conveys water to the caftle, both built about the middle of the fixteenth century by king Sebaftian. " As I now difcovered that there was nothing farther to difcover," I proceeded three leagues to Aniolhada. The road is good, and lies through plantations of olive-tees, vine-yards, and corn-fields. Feb. 7. We proceeded through forefls of pine and cork,, dined at Sardon, and fliortly after crofTed the little river Ague- da, over a bridge of three arches; afterwards ferried over the river Vouga, which is broad, fhallow, and exceedingly tranf- parent. Near the ferry is a flone bridge, which had fifteen arches ; but the two firft are broken. We then afcended a fteep rugged rock on foot, and arrived at Albergaria. Feb. 8. All this day there was a thick fog. The road was very bad, over loofe pieces of rock, through pine and cork woods. We dined at Sant-Antonio. On each fide of the road I faw a pole with a man's head upon it: they were thofe of two banditti, who had been lately executed. We pafled the night in ti.venta, Feb. 9. It rained violently all this day. We travelled eight hours on a very clayey road, and arrived at Villanova, which is along ftreet of fmiths' (hops. We then defcended a fteep hill to the edge of the river Douro, which we ferried over, and en- tered : 43 TRAVELS THROUGH tcrecl Oporto, where there being no tolerable inn, I took lodg- ings on the quay, at an Englifh houfe. This city, which is the fecond in the kingdom, is fald to contain thirty thoufand inhabitants. Thirty Englifh families re- fide here, who are chiefly concerned in the wine trade : this fatlory maintains a clergyman, who performs fervice on Sun- days at each houfe alternately. Their burying ground is only a field, at fome diftance from the town. A Britifh conful alfo re- fides here. I was prefent at an alTembly in the fadtory-houfe, where there were about twenty Britifh ladies. Oporto, and its fuburb Villanora, are each built on a hill, with the Douro between them : a fituation much refembling Newcaftie-upon-Tyne and its fuburb Gatefhead. There is no bridge over the Douro, becaufe, when the fnows melt on the mountains, that river overflows its banks, and lays the lower part of the city under water, Ibmetimcs twelve or fourteen feet, running at the amazing rate of fixteen miles an hour, and carry- ing all the vefTels to fea, many of which are lofl on the fands, or beat to pieces againfl the fhores. The theatre here is the vileft in the two kingdoms, very old and fhabby. It ferves for Portuguefe plays and for Italian operas. Ifaw the opera of Demofoonte donc^ fuitably to the place it was done in. The PORTUGAL. 49 The church of San Francifco is full of wooden ornament s, profufely carved, and entirely gilt, which has a very difgufting efFed:. I obferved many letters direded to the mofl: glorious Saint Francis, hanging by threads of the walls. As they were all open, I took the liberty of reading fome of them, and found they were only complimentary cards and letters of thanks, for cures which the writers thought they had received by means of that faint's intereft with the Virgin Mary, &c. The church dos Clerigos, fituated on the highefl part of the city, has a fteeple, much like that of the New Church in the Strand, which ferves for a land-mark to mariners. They were at that time building a new gate and prifon, of free-ftone, in a very good ftyle : after the completion of which, it will be neceffary to widen the ftreet in which that prifon ftands, *' if only to let a man have the fatisfailion of knowing on which fide of the ftreet he walks." There are few carriages here, as the ftreets are fteep and narrow : thefe are all paved with broad ftones, as thofe in Florence are. Chairs and horfe-litters are ufed here in bad weather : thefe litters are fedans, fupported between two horfes or mules. The boats on the river have an awning like the Venetian gondolas, and are rowed by men ftanding forward, after the fame manner as the Barcaruoli of Venice row, and fometimes by one man with a fingle oar. H The 50 TRAVELS THROUGH The merchants aflemble daily in the chief ftreet, to tranfa£l bufinefs ; and are protefted from the fun by fail-cloths hung ar crofs from the oppofite houfes. Mr, Wood, to whom I was recommended, took me to his- quinta^ or country-houfe, about a mile off. The gardens ars- on the flope of a high hill ; ten terraces rife gradually one above the other, each of them ornamented with a fountain, and vari>- ous fhady walks of orange and lemon trees, fome of them re- markably large.; The owner affured me he had gathered from a; fmgle orange tree, no lefs than fixteen thoufand oranges in one fcafon ! From the upper terrace is one of the fineft profpeds- imaginable, equalling that from Mount Edgecumbe, near Ply- mouth. To the eaft is the city of Oporto, with Villanova, which, by being fo near, are very diftindlly difcovered. To the weft, the fea, diftant about two miles, with the mouth of the river, and fhips continually entering into and failing out of the harbour, form " a moving pisfture," the river itfelf run- ning in a ferpentine courfe, not far from the foot of the hill on which the garden ftands ; the oppofite fhores being mountains covered with vines, and numbers of the like fmall country-houfeSy, in the environs (though inferior in point of fituation to this inr- expreffibly pleafing retreat) enliven the fcene. The chief article of commerce in this city is wine. Twenty thoufand pipes are yearly exported. The coft is about r.io. or ;ir. 1 2 each. Eighty thoufand are the ufual annual produce, fo PORTUGAL, 51 fo that three fourths are confuraed in the country. The mer- chants here have very fpacious wine vaults, fome of which are capable of holding fix or feven thoufand pipes. The inhabi- tants of half the (hops in the city are coopers, who fell their caflcs at about a moidore each. Here I agreed with the fam-e calejfeiro who had brought me from Lifbon, that I fhould have the whole difpofal of the car- riage and beafts to go where I pleafed, not to exceed ten leagues per day. The fhaft-mule, which cofl forty moidores, or ^. 54, was one of the ftrongeft and fineft I ever faw. Accordingly I fet out from Oporto on the 15th of February, early in the morning, ferried over the Douro, and afcended the hill on foot in an hour. My largeft trunk, which weighed above three hundred pounds, was carried on the back of a por- ter, which fhows the great ftrength of thefe fellows. We dined afterwards in the fhade of fome vafl: cork-trees, and then pro- ceeded to St. Antonio, having all the way the profpe£l of the fea to the right ; and at that time two Portuguefe men of war imder fail ; and to the north-eaft two very high mountains co- vered with fnow. On the road v\'e met about twenty criminals, chained together with one chain, by means of iron collars faftened round their necks, having each a fhort chain conne£led with the great one, one end of which was held by a foldier on horfeback ; feveral other armed foldiers guarded thefe wretches, and who were alfo hand- cuffed and bare-headed, H 2 and 52 TRAVELS THROUGH and were going to be fliipped from Oporto to the Brafils, to work .in the mines. Feb. 1 6. We dined at Albergarla, ferried over the Vougaj and pafTed the night at Sardon. The roads were become fo bad by the rains, that we did not arrive till late at night, caufing the horfe-driver to walk before the chaife with a torch. Thus far we returned on the fame road we came, as there is no other carriage road from Oporto to Almeida, whither we were going. Feb. 17. We proceeded through olive-grounds to the foot of the mountain of Boflaco, or Mariana. Here I hired a cart drawn by two oxen, by means of which my baggage was dragged up this mountain in two hours. I afcended it on horfeback, and the chaife followed us empty. On the top is a convent of Car- thufians, in which I was told are confined two illegitimate fons of the late king John V. Another natural fon of that king is at prefent archbifliop of Braga.. Here we faw the fllll higher mountains Sierras de Eftrellaj, whofe fummits are always covered with fnow. Stiff with eternal ice, and hid in fnow That fell a thoufand centuries ago, Thefe mountains ftand, nor can the rifing fun Unfix their frofts, and teach 'em how to run. Addison.. In PORTUGAL. 5-3 In going down the mountain we had juft afcended, the chaife overfet, and one of the wheels was broken to pieces. The neareft houfe was eight miles ofF, fo that I left Baptifle with the ealeffeiro and his man on the road, where they remained all night, and procuring a guide, walked with my Englifh fervanC to the fmall village of Barilhe, in about two hours and a half, taking the fire-arms with me. The next morning the baggage arrived in a cart drawn by oxen. The chaife remained on the road, and a new wheel was befpoke at a village near fourteen miles off. This accident detained us two days in Barilhe. I amufed myfelf by fliooting. The country is very mountainous and barren, like Weftmoreland The ftones here appear to be of the fame nature as the Cornifli granite. I hired a whole houfe to myfelf, which indeed was only one room, the floor of which was of the fame materials as the highway, with no furni- ture, except a. table, a bench, and a trufs of ilraw full of fleas. The roof admitted the rain through large crevices, which ferved for the contemplation of the flars. Feb. 20. This morning we pafl!ed over a flrong ftone bridge of four arches, under which rolls a torrent of very clear water; and Immediately after afcended a fteep and rugged mountain, la half an hour ; then we pafled through the village of Santo Com- bo, and crofled the fame torrent on a fl;one bridge of fix arches,, of which two are pretty large. From this fpot is a very romantic view. The road from hence to Cargal is good, chiefly through, olive grounds, with vafl: numbers both of black and white flieep feeding 54. TRAVELS THROUGH feeding under the trees. In this village is no inn, but I procur- ed a lodging in a carpenter's fhop. Feb. 2 1. We paffed the river Mondego over a bridge of three arches, and then afcended a mountain. Tvi^o oxen were added to the chaife to aflift the mules in dragging it up. When we ar- rived at the top, we let the mules reft an hour, and afterwards pafTed over a bridge of a fingle arch : then the road became ex- cefFively dangerous, over loofe rocks, deep clay, and flippery precipices. The mules frequently fell down, the traces broke, it rained hard, and was quite dark when we arrived at Vinhofa, where we put up at the worft inn I ever entered before or fince. There was only one room, which was full of people. They had kindled a large fire of wet wood in the middle of it; and, as there was no chimney, the fmoke was left to find its way out of the windows and door. I got fome ftraw, placed it on the top of a large cheft, and rolling myfelf up in my cloak, fell diredly afleep with all my deaths on, my head being half out of a win- dow to avoid fuffocation. Feb. 2 2. We travelled this day over barren mountains, with a few cork trees, chefnuts, and pines, fcattered here and there, then pafTed over a bridge of two arches, through fome fields of maize : over another bridge of a fingle arch, and dined at Celo- rico, where we were regaled by a new Chrijiian^ who had late- ly been a Jew, with the fineft red wine I ever drank, refembling JBurgundy in colour and flavour, but fuperior in goodnefs. We went PORTUGAL. 55 went on to the village of Cava9al, where there Is no inn, but we procured a miferable lodging at a fruit-fhop ; however, the Jew's wine made it appear like a palace, as we had drank pretty freely of it. At Celorlco is a Moorifli callle, widi two towers, fituated on a mountain, down the declivity of which, to the village, is a wall of nine feet thick, built of large rough ftones, without any morter or cement. This morning I obferv- ed on the fide of the road five ftones ftanding upright, of eight feet each in height, and four others of the fame dimenfions ly- ing by them, refembling a little ftone-henge. And among thefe mountains many enormous flones are feea in very unaccountable fituations. Feb. 23. Thisday'sjourney was very fatiguing, as we travelled during eleven hours on a very bad road, covered with loofe pieces of rock, with chefnut trees growing between the interftices. We came at laft to the river Coa, which we eroded over a high and dangerous bridge of three arches : the parapets were broken down, and the bridge itfelf was juft broad enough to admit the paflage of the chaife. We then afcended a very high mountain, on the top of which is the town of Almeida* The diftance of this town from Oporto, by the road we came, I imagine to be about two hundred and twenty-eight miles, or fixty-five hours. There is no inn in this town ; but Colonel Calder, who was Governor in the abfence of General Maclean, very politely offered me his houfc, where I fpent two nights, being received with the hofpitality pe- culiar, to his nation,. and which I. had had the happinefs of experi- encing^ 56 TP.AVELS THROUGH' encing the year before in Scotland. At that time feven or eight other Britifli officers, in the Portuguefe fervice refided here. Feb. 24.. Almeida is on the frontiers of the province of Beira, and but a league and a half diflant from the Spanifli caftle, in the kingdom of Leon. The town is well fortified ; one hundred and ten guns, chiefly ofbrafs, are planted on fix baftions. There are two gates, a quadrangular caftle in the middle of the town, and handfome barracks. I walked round Almeida in a quarter of an hour. Here I fhewed my paffports. Feb. 25. This morning, having proceeded a league and a half, we crofTed a rivulet which divides the kingdom of Portugal from that of Spain, and were flopped at the village of el Obifpo, where we were detained ail day, by reafon of the drivei s having neglected to take a pafs for the mules, and to fjgn a bond that they fhould return into Portugal, as the importation of horfes, mules, and afles, is not allowed in either of the kingdoms, ■without the payment of a very confiderable tax. i therefore fent back to Almeida, and procured the neceflary papers. Feb. 26. We proceeded through an exceeding fertile coun- try, confifting of immenfe corn-fields, on gentle rifings. Every inch of ground is cultivated, but not a tree to be feen. We dined SPAIN. 57 dined at the village of Gallego, where I obferved two ftorks, \yhich had built their nefts on the church ilceple : thefe were the firft birds of the kind I had yet feen in thefe kingdoms, but I afterwards found them in every part of Spain, and likewife in Barbary. We crofTed the river Agueda on a temporary bridge ; (a very fine ftone one is now building ; it is to have feven arches, three of which are already finifhed ;) and immediately entered the city of Ciudad-Rodrigo, where I faw many ftorks nefts on the fteeples and chimnies. This city is very neat, has three gates, and a plea- fant public walk of five rows of trees, along the fide of the river. The inns here are much better than thofe in Portugal. We were provided with good beds, elevated from the ground, and clean ftieets, though without curtains, which none of the beds in Spain have. The cathedral is a Gothic building; the front ornamented with feventeen ftatues of faints, the fteeple is modern, and the entrance is under a porch, fupported by four Corinthian columns. Here is alfo an old caftle. The houfes are chiefly built of ftone, and made a much cleaner appearance than thofc in Portugal. I Feb. 53 TRAVELS THROUGH Feb. 27. The country we travelled over this day was a fine plain, and corn-fields intermixed with woods of dwarf and ever- green oaks, under one of which we dined, and pafled the night in a venta. There were no locks to the doors, but the landlord told me, that he himfelf was the lock to his houfe, and that every thing was perfedlly fafe, which I had the pleafure of finding to be true, both here and in every other part of Spain- through which I afterwards travelled.. Feb. 28. Pafling through a foreft of green oaks, and over a fine plain of corn-fields, leaving a long chain of mountains co- vered with fnow to the right, at three in the afternoon I arriv- ed at Salamanca, and put up at the Sun inn, in the great fquare.. This is the bell inn I ever entered that was kept by a Spaniard, for all the great inns in Madrid, Cadiz, Seville, &c. are kept cither by Italians or Frenchmen., This city is built on three fmall hills ; the ftreets are very nar- row and dirty, and the whole has a melancholy afpedt. The univerfity Is much on the decline : it was founded in 1 200, by Alphonfiis IX. and Is the mofl; ancient in Spain. Here are fix- teen fchools, and about four thoufand fcholars. The number of profeflbrs in this city is feventy. Here is a college for Irifh ftudents : the redlor, Mr. Philip HafTett, and his affiftant Mr., Michael Broders, were fo obliging as to accompany me to fee every thing remarkable in Salamanca. They have about thirty young men under their care. The SPAIN, 59 The lower clafs of men wear large hats uncocked, feme black and fome white, flit fleeves, broad leather belts, and fandals made of cords : and here I faw for the firft time in Spain, huge clumfy coaches drawn by fix 'mules, with very long traces. We paid a vifit to the Profeflbr of Aftronomy, who informed me, that Salamanca is fituated in 41^ 5' latitude, and 12° 30' longitude from the ifle of Ferro, The moft beautiful part of this city is the great fquare, built about thirty years ago. The houfes are of three ftories, and all of equal height and exaft fymmetry, with iron balconies, and a ftone balluftrade on the top of them : the lower part is arched, which forms a piazza all round the fquare, of two hundred and ninety-three feet to each fide. Over fome of the arches are me- dallions, with bad bufts of the kings of Spain, and of feveral eminent men, in Hone bafTo-relievo, among which are thofe of Fcrnand Cortez, Francis Pizarro, Davila, and Cid Ruy. In this fquare the bull-fights are exhibited for three days only, in the month of June. The river Tormcs runs by this city, and has a bridge over it of twenty- five arches, built by the Romans, and yet entire. The cathedral is a Gothic building, with a fuperfluity of carving in ftone on the outfide, and has a fine organ with hori- zontal pipes. I 2 Here 6o TRAVELS THROUGH Here are four royal, and four military colleges. That of Ca- latrava has a very handfome modern ftone flair-cafe. That of St. Bartholomew is a new building ; the entrance is under a porch, fupported by four Corinthian columns, each three feet and a half in diameter. The cloifters are two flories in height,, one of which is of the Doric, and the other of the Compofite order. The grand ftair-cafe has a double flight of fteps. The library is placed in the upper ftory, and commands a fine prof- pe£l over the adjacent country. This building is the handfomeft in Salamanca.. St. Stephen's church and convent, wherein one hundred and: fifty monks refide, is of the Dominican order. The front o£ the church is Gothic, with many ftone baffb-relievos, by Cer^ loni, a Milanefe fculptor, in 1612. The picture over the great altar, which reprefents the ftoning of St. Stephen, was beguii; by Claudio Coelio, and finifhed by Luca Giordaao. The wall which extends from the choir to the roof, is femi-.- circular, and was painted in frefco by Palomino, in 1705 : it re- prefents Religion with a tiara on her head, drawn in a car by four horfes abreaft, trampling on and riding over heretics. The T/iree Ferfons are in the clouds, attended by the Virgin Mary and. many faints. All thefe figures are as large as the life. In the facrifty are many pidures ; the beft are the following. A Pii'ti)^ extremely well painted by John Bapt. Mayno, who was born at Toledo, and died in 1 640. A SPAIN. 6r A large Flagellation, in the manner of Rubens. A fmall Ecce Homo., with many figures, in the ftyle of Al- bert Durer. This pidture is over the altar, and the Annuncia- tion is reprefented by the angel on the one fide, and the Virgin on the other. A fmall pidure of St. Peter didatlng to St. Dominic, who. is writing.. In the church of the Minor Clerks, I obferved the pidure: over the great altar, which reprefents the Aflumptlon of St.- Charles Boromeo, a good piece, by Francis Camillo : he waS) born at Madrid,, and died in 1671. The church which formerly belonged to the Jefuits, is now; ihut up, and_ their convent converted into a royal college. In the cloiflers is theHiflory of the Life of St. Ignatius, in thirty pidures, by Sebaftlan Concha : the figures are rather lefs than the natural fize, and are painted on canvafs. One of the monks: has added another piece, daubed by himfelf. It may eafily be diftinguifhed from the others, among which it has fo unworthily ufurped a place.. Oppofite to this church, 1 obferved a palace, of which the front is quite covered with cockle fhells, in ftone baflb relievo, which has as whimfical an effed as I have feen caufed by ths front of a palace in Ferrara, and of another in Naples, be- ■ ing in like manner covered with lozenges, vulgarly called: diamonds.. la;. 62 TRAVELS THROUGH In tlie Capuchin convent, which flands jufl without the ele- gant gate of Zamora, over the great altar, is a very large and fine piece by Vincent Carducci, but a little damaged : it repre- fents the AflTuinption of St. Francis ; the 7/iree Perfons are in the upper part of the picture, environed with angels. The celebrated profeflbr of mathematics, Don Diego de Tor- res, died two years ago, and is buried in this convent. In the church of the Auguftinian nuns, is a very good picture of the Afllimption of the Virgin Mary, by Jofeph Ribera. Here is a curious inlaid marble pulpit, fupported on the extended wings of an eagle, of bronze, of excellent workmanfhip. The church itfelf is very beautiful. I waited on the Cavalleras de Sajitiago^ in their convent; thefe are all noble ladies, who are knights of St. James, and wear the hi/igtna of the order on their breafts. There were at that time no more than eight ladies, all old and ugly, fo that I made my vifit as fhort as poffible, efpecially as there is nothing worthy of attention either in the church or in the convent. I afterwards faw the library of the unlverfity, in which the books are 7]ct chained, as is reported by writers who have copied from one another. Two large Englifh globes (land on a table in the middle of the room. Here SPAIN. 62 Here Is a theatre for Spanlfli plays, which is a very ordinary bulldinp-. 't>' The ftudents are drefled In black like priefts, and have their crowns fhorn. Salamanca has ten gates, and contains twenty-five churches, twenty-five convents of friars, and the fame number of nun- neries. I compute this city to be about ninety-four miles dif- tant from Almeida. I was at this time not fufficiently verfed ia the Spanifh language to form any acquaintance with the natives ; fo that having gratified my curiofity in this city, I left It on the third of March, and travelled all day through a very fruitful country, producing corn, but no other trees than a few ftraggling green oaks and cork-trees. During this journey we met and overtook thoufands of afles. The larks here are of an extraor- dinary fize. The largeft which I fliot meafured feventeen inches when the wings were extended : they were crefted, had a black femicircle upon their necks, and proved very delicate eating. We pafled this night in a venta^ which had a flork's nefl on the roof.. March 4. We proceeded to Zamora, traverfing a wood of pine-trees, and fome corn-fields. Clofe to this city we crofl'ed the river Duero, over an ancient and clumfy ftone bridge, with fixteen arches of unequal fizes. The cathedral has a handfome modern porch. As it was the time of the fair, the chief ftreet was filled with, booths ; and the end of it was appropriated for the fale of mule& 64 TRAVELS THROUGH •mules and aHes. I faw a jack-afs fold here for three thoufand reals, or one hundred and fifty piaftres, which is £. '^■i, ijj. So that £. ICO which was paid by a gentleman of my acquaintance ■in Norfolk for a Spanifl^ jack-afs, will appear to be no exorbitant price, when we confider the firfl: coft, the danger of being de- tected in exporting them, the punifliment of vyhich is death, and the charge of freight, with the rlfque of the animals dying on their palTage. The above mentioned gentleman has bred many fine mules by means of this afs. There is a ruined Moorifh cafile near this city. March 5. We arrived this day at the city of Toro, which has "the fame coat of arms as the city of Turin, i. e. a bull, as the names imply. The road was very good, chiefly along the banks of the Duero, with continued vine-yards and corn-fields. I here obferved great numbers of hoopoes, which birds I afterwards found were very common all over Spain. This city is one of the moft ancient in the whole kingdom. It is fituated on the fummit of a high hill, at the foot of which runs the Duero, crofled by a narrow flone bridge of twenty-two arches. The defcent of the hill is by a winding road, which forms thirteen zig-zags : the profpe£t from the top is very romantic over a fine plain, embellifhed by the river and bridge. Here are alfo the walls of a Moorifh caftle, which form a fquare of one hundred and forty-three feet, with a round tower at each angle ; the roof is fallen in. Over SPAIN. 65. Over the door of the cathedral are fevcral very ancient baflb relievos in flone ; among which I obferved one of two angels, playing on a mufical inftrument, fomewhat like that called by the French Vielle, Leyer by the Germans, and Beggar's Lyre by Dr. Burney ; one of the angels plays with his fingers on the keys, of which there are ten, and the other turns the handle. The length of the infcrument is about five feet. March 6. This day we arrived at Tordefillas, travelling over a fandy plain producing corn and vines. I obferved many eagles planing over head. The city ftands on a hill, and has a ^bridge of ten pointed arches over the Duero. March 7. V/e proceeded three leagues to Simanca, which city ftands on an eminence, and has a ftone bridge of feventeen arches over the river Pifuerga, and a large Moorifh caftie, ' on the re- mains of which is built a modern one, furrounded by a dry ditch, over which are two bridges. The archives of the kingdom weredepofited here by Philip II. in 1 566, where they are ftill kept. Travelling two leagues farther, we entered into Old Caftile, and arrived at Valladolid ; the road was through corn-fields, iandy and level, exadlly anfwering the lines in Thomfon's Autumn, " A gaily checquer'd heart-expanding view, " Far as the circling eye can (hoot around, *' Unbounded toffing in a flood of corn *"." * " Y los creci dos trigos y cebadis, *' H.icen conio del mar fus oleadas." Obs. Rust. And the grown wheat and barley form waves like thofe of the fea. K Near 66 TRAVELS THROUGH Near the gate at which we entered, I faw the head of a man ftuck on a pole, and one of his quarters, confiding of an arm, flioulder, and part of the ribs, nailed underneath : they were clofe to the road, and quite frefh ; and the beard continued to grow, which formed altogether a ghaftly fpedacle. It was part of the body of an affaffin. Valladolid is fituated on a plain, near the river Pifuerga, which has a handfome ftone bridge over it of ten arches. The banks are ornamented with walks, planted with a double row of trees. This city is one of the largefl: in Spain, and has an unlverfity^ founded in 1471, by Cardinal Ximenes. I obferved that the names of the ftreets were painted on tiles- fixed in the walls of the corner houfes ; and that the houfes were numbered. I waited on Dr. John Geddes, who is redtor of the Scotch college, and on Dr. Perry, redlor of the Englifh college : thefe gentlemen have each two affiftants, and fifteen or fixteen youYig men under their tuition. Dr. Geddes was fo obliging as to fliow me every thing remarkable in Valladolid : wc went firft to the library of the univerfity, where there are theological Unwieldy volumes, and in number great; And long it is fince any reader's hand Has reach'd them from their unfrequented feat > SPAIN. ^j For a deep duft, which time does foftly fhed Where only time does come, their covers beare, On which grave fpyders ftreets of webs have fpread. Subtle and flight as the grave writers were. D'Avenant's GoNDiBERT, Canto V. V. 48, 49. Here are about one thoufand five hundred fludents, who are habited in the fame manner as thofe at Salamanca. The chief ftudy here is that of the law. Father Caimo, fpeaking of this univerfity fays, " From hence, as out of a vaft flore-houfe of •* civil law, iflue all the judges, advocates, lawyers, procurators, " proj^ " which produce the beft and mod abundant herbs, are alfo allotted •' to the youngeft lambs; that, by being fortified with good " food, they may be able to depart with the others. Their tail " is cut off within five inches of the rump, to keep them the " cleaner. It is an error to believe that flieep prefer aromatic " plants to others, and that they are more beneficial to them. " It is the tender herbs that grow between thofe plants, that af- *' ford the moft wholefome nourifhment for them, and that gives *' a good tafte to their flefh. They mud never be led to feed till •' the fijn has diffipated the morning dew, and mull not be allow- •' ed to drink immediately after a hail ftorm ; becaufe that wa- *' ter, or wet grafs, renders them melancholy, and makes them " languifh and die. *' It appears then to be certain, that the fijperlorlty of the " wool in this country is not to be attributed to the climate only; *' and that it depends in a great meafureon the precautions above •' mentioned ; becaufe, in the lame climate, the fheep of Anda- " lusia, which are of the fame breed, but which are not taken " the like care of, have their wool much coarfer. Would it be *' advantageous in other countries to allot large trads of land for " the pafturage of thefe animals ; and would it be as much fo ** to the proprietor as if he had made thofe lands ferve for other " purpofes ? In thofe countries where lands are fuccefsfully cul- ♦' cultivated, flocks of fheep muft be confidered more for the ** ufe they are of to agriculture, than for their fleeces. Dung " is there much more necefl'ary than wool. The travelling flieep La " furnlflv 76 TRAVELS THROUGH *' furnifli no manure when they wander in the mountains, fo '" that they niLift be confined together on lands which require " cultivation*." In the Gentleman's Magazines for May and June 1764, is an account of thefe fheep- walks, addreflcd to Mr. Peter CoUln- fon, which is very accurate, and from which the following ex- trads are a neceffary addition. »' From computations made with the utmofl accuracy, it has " appeared, that there are five millions of fine woolled fliecp iii " Spain, and that the wool and flefh of a flock of ten thoufand " fheep, produce yearly about twenty-four reals a head, which " we will fuppofe to be nearly the value of twelve Englifh fix- " pences ; of thefe but one goes to the owner, three to the king, *' and the other eight to the expences of paflure, tythes, fliep- *' herds, dogs, fliearing. Sec. " Thus the annual produ(ft of the five millions of flieep, *' amounts to thirty-feven millions and a half of fix-pences, a " little more or lefs, of which there is about three millions and " a half for the owners, above fifteen millions enter into the " treafury, and feventeen millions and a half go to the benefit of •" the public. * In the book entitled Sccretos de /fgricultura, by Fr. Mig. Auguftln, 1617, are the methods of curing the infirmities offlieep, Sec. This booic has been very often reprinted. It is a large quano volume. "Tea SPAIN. 'jj " Ten thoufand fheep compofe a flock, which is divided in- " to ten tribes : one man has the condu>S of all. He muft be " the owner of four or five hundred fheep, ftrong, a£llvc, vigi- " lant, intelligent in pafture, in the weather, and in the difeafcs " of fhcep. He has abfolute dominion over fifty fhepherds, and " fifty dogs, five of each to a tribe. He chufes them, he *' chaftifes them, or difcharges them at will ; he is the prcepo- *^ Jit lis, or chief fliepherd of the whole flock. One may judge *' of his importance by his falary; he has forty pounds a year " and a horfc ; whereas the firft fhepherd of a tribe has but " forty fhillings a year, the fccond thirty-four, the third twen- " ty-five, the fourth fifteen, and a boy ten (hillings a year. All " their allowance is two pounds of bread a day each. They may " keep a few goats and.fheep in the flock, but the wool is for " the mafl:er ; they have only the Iambs and the flefh. " The chief fliepherds give them three fhillings in April, and " three in Odober, by way of regale for the road. They are ex- •' pofed every day to all weathers, and every night lie in a hut. " Thus fare, and thus live, generally to old age, five-and-twen- " ty thoufand men, with the fame number of dogs of the " large maflifF kind, who arc allowed two pounds of bread a- *' piece a day. " The firfl; thing the fliepherd does when the flocks return *' from the South to their fummer downs, is to give them as " much fait as they will eat. Every owner allows his flock of a *' thoufaud 78 TRAVELS THROUGH " thoufand, one hundred arrcbas^ or twenty-five quintals of " fait, which the flock eats in about five months. They eat none " in their journey, nor in their winter walk. This has ever *' been the cuftom, and is the true reafon why the kings of *' Spain cannot raife the price of fait to the height it is in France, *' for it would tempt the fhepherds to ftint the fheep ; which, it *' is believed, would weaken their conftitutions, and degrade *' the wool . The fliepherd places fifty or fixty flat flones, at *' about five paces diflant from each other, he fl:rews fait upon *' each ftone ; he leads the flock flowly among the flones, and *' each fheep eats to its liking. " The fleeces of three rams generally weigh twenty-five *' pounds : there mufl: be the wool of four wethers, or of five *' ewes, to equal that weight. " The latter end of September the fheep begin their march *' towards the low plains : the itinerary is marked out by im- *' memorial cuftom, and is better regulated than the march of " troops. They feed freely in all the wilds and commons they " pafs through, but as they muft neceffarily traverfe many cul- *' tivated fpots, the proprietors of them are obliged by law, to " leave a paflage open for the fheep, through vine-yards, olive- " yards, corn-fields, and pafture-lands common to towns ; and *' thefe pafiages mufl be at leaft ninety yards wide, that they *' may not be too crowded in a narrow lane. Thefe paiTages are *' aften fo long, that the fheep march fix or feven leagues a day to SPAIN. 79 " to get into the open wilds, where the fhepherd walks flowly, " to let them feed at eafe, and reft; they never flop, but " march two leagues a day at leaft, without any intervening day " of repofe, ever following the fliepherd, always feeding, or " feeking with their heads to the ground, till they get to the end. *' of their journey. " The chief (hepherd's firft care is to fee that each tribe is " conducted to the fame diftrid: it fed In the year before, and " where the fheep were yeaned, which they think prevents a " variation in the wool, though indeed this requires but little " care, for the flieep would go to that very fpot of their own " accord. His next care is to fix the toils where the Iheep pafs "• the night, left they fliould ftray and become a prey to wolves." Thefe toils are made of efparto, gratnen fparteriim, or genifta Hifpanka, in Latin. Mr. Ray calls it mat-weed : it is a foft rufhy fhrub, which grows to the height of about a yard, chiefly about Murcia and Carthagena. Sandals, mats, bafkets, and ropes are made of it : it floats, whereas hemp fmks : it is called. Bofs by the Englifli failors. The meflics are a foot wide, and of the thicknefs of a finger;,, fo that they ferve inftead of hurdles. " The fhcpherds make their awn huts with ftakes, branchesy, " and brambles ; for which end, and for firing, they are allowed u by ?o TRAVELS THROUGH " by the law to cut ofl' one branch from every forefl-tree. In the " month ofMarch they pay the twentieth Iamb; the other half " tythc is paid in the winter-walk. They faw off part of their " horns, that the rams may neither hurt one another, nor the " ewes. They rentier impotent the lambs doomed for docile " bell-wethers, to walk at the head of the tribe : they make no " incifion, the fhepherd turns the tefticles many times about *♦ in thejcrotum, till he twills the fpermatic veffels as a rope, *' and they wither away without any danger. " As foon as the month of April comes about, the fhepherds " muft exert all their vigilance left the fheep (hould efcape ; it " has often happened, that a tribe has ftolen a forced march of " three or four leagues upon a fleepy fhepherd ; but he is fure to " find them ; and there are many examples of three or four ftray- " ed fheep walking a hundred leagues to the very place they fed " the year before. '• Some of the fhearing houfes are capable of containing twenty " thoufand Iheep ; the ewes are fo tender, that if they were ex- " pofed immediately after fhearing to the air of a bleak night, " they would all perilh. " There are one hundred and twenty-five fhearers employed " to flicar a flock of ten thoufand fheep : a man fliears twelve " ewes a day, and but eight rams ; the reafon of this difference " is, not only becaufe the rams have larger bodies, flronger, and more SPAIN. 8i " more wool, but becaufe the fhearers dare not tie their feet, as " they do thofe of the unrefifling ewes. Experience has taught, " that the bold rebellious ram would ftruggle even to fufFocation *' in captivity under the fhears : they gently lay him down, they *' ftroke his belly, and beguile him of his fleece. A certain " number of flieep are led into the great fhelter-houfe, which *' is a parallelogram of four or five hundred feet long, and one " hundred feet wide, where they remain all day. As many as " the fhearers judge they can difpatch next day, are driven from " the fhelter-houfe into a long, narrow, and low place, where " they remain all night, crowded together as clofe as pofTible, " that they may fweat plentifully, v.'hich foftens the wool for ** the fhears, and oils their edges. They are led by degrees in *' the morniijg to the fpacious fliearing hall, adjoining to the " fwea:ting-room. The fhepherd carries them off, as faft as they " are fheared, to be marked with tar ; and as this operation can *' only be performed upon one at a time, it gives an opportunity *' to the fhepherds to cull out for the butchery all the fheep of •' the flock which have outlived their teeth. The fheared " fheep go to the fields to feed a little, if it be fine weather, and " they return in the evening to pafs the night in the yard before " the houfe, within the fhelter of the walls; but if it be cold " and cloudy they go into the houfe : they are thus brought by " degrees to bear the open air, and th-eir firft days journies from " the fhearing-houfe are fhort. " The wool is divided into three forts : the back and belly *' ^give the fuperfine, the neck and fides give the fine, and the M breaft, 82 TRAVELS THROUGH " breaft, fhoulders, and thighs the coarfe wool. It is fold af- *' ter it is wafhed ; for, as it never lofes lefs than half its weight " in wafhing, and often more, when the fweating is violent, *' half the carriage is faved." The firft objed of my attention in Segovia was the famous aquedud, the building of which is attributed to the Goths, to Hercules, to the emperor Trajan, &c. Diego Colmenares, feems to make it cotemporary with the pyramids of Egypt, as- he fays there is much fimilitude between them and this aque- dudt ; and adds, that this is of a very different order of archi- tedure from any of the five ufed by the Romans : but it is moft generally believed to have been ereded by Trajan *. There is a range of one hundred and eighteen arches, over forty-three of which there is an equal number of others ; the total is one hun- dred and fixty-one : thegreatefl height of this building is one hundred and two feet. The whole is built with Hones of about three feet long, and two feet thick, without any morter or cement ; but thofe on the top of all are joined by cramp-irons. There are many houfes built about this aquedud, which prevent a com- plete and general view of it f : the two largefl: arches ferve as . paffages, which lead to the Plaza del Azogucjo, An Englifh gentleman of my acquaintance, with two of his companions, walked over the top of the aquedud, which is but eight feet, broad, and without any parapet. On the whole, it is one of ♦ See Clarke, p. 182. Caimo, tom^ ii, p. 156. Florez. Montfaucon, &c.. + See the annexed plato. the SPAIN. 83 tlie nobleft and moft perfedl monuments of antiquity now exift- ing, and is at prefent as entire as when it was firft erected. The Spaniards call it el Puente, or the Bridge, which is a very- improper name *. I afterwards went to the Alcazar, or royal palace, fituated on a rock, detached by a deep dry ditch from the city, with which it communicates by a ftrong ftone bridge. It was built by the Moors in the eighth century ; was afterwards inhabited by the kings of Caftile, and is now ufed for a ftate prifon : there were thirteen Turkifh corfair captains confined in it at the time I was there. Part of the palace is converted into a mi-* litary fchool, in 'which eighty cadets are educated, who alfo re- fide here. This is the caftle of Segovia mentioned in Gil Bias, '^hich is an original French work of Mr. le Sage, and not a tranflation from the Spanifli, as has been imagined. The caftle is built of white ftone, a tower rifes from the center, environed with many turrets; the roof of the whole is covered with lead. In the royal faloon, round the wall, are fifty-two ftatues of painted wood ; they reprefent a feries of the kings and queens of Spain, fitting on thrones, and of feveral eminent perfons, all as large as the life, with an infcription under each. The ceiling of this room, and of feveral others, is fo well gilt, * I faw the Pont du Gard near Nimes in 1768, and found it to be one iiUTidred and forty-four feet in height, but it has three rows of arches, one above another ; it was built by Agrippa, INl 2 that 84 TRAVELS THROUGH that though it probably was done feven centuries ago, it appear* quite frefh and new. I was fhewn the cabinet where Alfonfo X. furnamed the Im- pious and the Wife, compofed his Aftronomical Tables, in 1260: he was here ftruck by lightning, the marks of which, ftill appear in the wall. The cathedral is an old Gothic building, with a high fquare tower, but contains nothing worth notice, except the old clothes of fome Jews, who had the misfortune to be burnt by order of the moji holy Inquifition in the laft century. The mint is fituated at the bottom of the city, upon thefmall river Erefraa : the whole machinery for coining is moved- by water-wheels, by means of which the metal is weighs ed, cut, beaten, ftamped, and milled, as it were in a moment. This is the moft ancient of the three mints in Spain ; the other two are at Seville and at Madrid. I here obtained fpecimens ii> gold, filver, and copper, of the new coinage ; the fmalleft piece in copper is called a maravedi, one hundred and fifty-^ three of which are of equal value with our fhilling : the real da. plata is a filver piece, and the pefo de oro a gold piece, of the fame fize and ftamp as the tnaravediy nine of the firft are equal to two {hillings, and the value of the latter is two ninths of our pound fterling. There has been an univerfal new coinage of all the Spanifh gold, filver, and copper money, though the old coin^; SPAIN. 85 coins ftill retain their value, and are equally current with the new. The impreffion on one fide of the copper coins reprefenta the profile of his majefty, the infcription is Carolus III. D. G. Hifp. Rex, 1773, and on the reverfe quarterly a caftle and a lion, being the arms of Caftile and Leon, with the arms of. France in the center, without any infcription : the milling re- prefents a wreath of leaves. The impreffions upon the new fil- Yer and gold coins differ very little from thofe in copper; the infcription on one fide is Carolus HI. Dei G. 1772, and on the. reverfe, Hijpaniarum Rex :. the arms are fiamped on thefe pieces,, crowned with a regal crown, and at the bottom have a pomegra- nate, which is the arms of the kingdom of Granada., Thofe which are ftruck at Segovia have a fmall flamp of four of the: arches of the aqueduct on one fide of the head : thofe coined af Madrid have a capital M, with a crown over it j and thofe thaL are fabricated in Seville have an S, There are fbur new copper coins ; a piece of one maravedi ; an ochavo, or one of two ; a quarto, or one of four ; and a piece . called dos quartos, confifting of eight. Five new filver pieces,. Qneof a fingle real, one of two,, one of four, one of ten, and, one of twenty reals, which laft is called a hard dollar, pefo duro^. piaftre, or piece-of-elght. The four new gold coins are, the piece of tv/enty reals, that of feventy-five- reals ten maravedis, , that of one hundred and fifty reals and twenty maravedis, and/ that of three hundred reals and fix maravedis. But, in common, currency, when a fmgle piece is exchanged for fmaller money,., th^j U TRAVELS THROUGH "the odd maravedis are not accounted : ninety reals are equal to 2 pound fterling when at par. Some of the coins prior to thefe have whimfical combinations of the letters compofing the words CAROLVS and PHILIPPVS, which at firft view appear more like the arbitrary marks of merchants upon their bales of goods, than as cyphers, for which the inventor probably defigned them. The milling on the filver coins is a circle between two oblique lines, thus "Offorrorro; that on the gold coins nearly refembles that on our guineas *, March 12. I left Segovia this day, and travelled to the royal feat of St. lldefonfo, which is alfo called la Grange and Balfain. The diftance is but two leagues : the road is very ftony, and on each fide we faw vaft herds of deer, many hares, and very nu- merous covies of partridges, which live here in perfed. fecurity, " And, undifturb'd by guns, in quiet fleep," becaufe hunting and fhooting in the proper feafon are free to every body all over Spain, excepting four leagues round Ma- drid, or round any of the royal feats, the game being there referved for his majefly alone, who daily amufes himfelf with ihooting. The weather was cold, and the puddles on the road were covered with a Ikim of ice as thick as a halfpenny. The town, which * See Clarke's account of the old coins, p. 267. contains sr P A I N. 87 eorrtaln^ about fix thoufand inhabitants, is built at the bottom of a long ridge of mountains, which were then wholly covered with fnow. I called on Mr. John Dowling, an Irifhman, who has eredted a large building, in which he carries on a manufac- ture of knives, fcilTors, razors, fword-blades, and other fleel' wares : his workmen are chiefly from Birmingham. This gen- tleman was fo kind as to accompany me during my ftay here. We firft vifited the royal fabric for plate-glafs, where I faw glafles of one hundred and twenty French inches by feventy-two,. which are the largeft that were ever made *. Thefe plates are not made for fale, but only for the king's ufe ; his palaces are furniflied with them, and he prefents fome of them to his nobi- lity. There are alfo fix glafs-houfes, for the fabric of bottles, drinking-glafles, &c. for fale. Mr. Dowling has likewife- ereded a machine which poliflies forty-eight plates of glafs. at a time. I dined this day at Dr. Matthew Lawler's, an Irilh ecclefiaftic who refides here. The inns here are deteftable ; and during the time that the court refides here, which is annually from the 2 ift of July to the 8th of October, the expeace of living is to the highefl degree extravagant. * I {aw a looking-glafs in Burleigh-houfe, the feat of the earl of Exeter, near Stamford, which was made in London, and was feven feet by fo'ur; and: one at the fabric in the Eauxbourg St. Antoine in Paris, of eight feet ten,., hy fix feet two inches, 88 TRAVELS THROUGH The court pafs the reft of the year as follows : from the 9th ef Odlober to the icth of December, in the Efcurial ; then at Ma- drid till the 5th of January, from which time they are at the Pardo till the Holy-week, which is fpent at Madrid, and the re- mainder at Aranjuez. The ambafladors and foreign minifters all accompany the king to thefe four feats, where they are obliged to keephoufes at a great expence, excepting at the Pardo, which is but about fix miles from Madrid. The royal palace of St. Ildefonfo is built of brick, plaiftered and painted; it is two ftories high, and the garden-front has thirty-one windows, and twelve rooms in a fuite. In the mid- dle is fituated the church. The gardens are on a flope, on the top of which is the great refervoir of water, called here el Mar ^ the fea, which fupplies the fountains : this refervoir is furnifhed from the torrents which pour down the mountains. The great entry is fomewhat fimilar to that of Verfailles, and with a large iTon palifade. In the gardens are twenty-feven fountains ; the bafons are of white marble, and the ftatues, which are all excel- lent, and equal to any thing of the kind I ever faw, even in Italy, are of lead, bronzed and gilt : thofe of Fame, Andromeda, La- tona, Neptune, Diana, and the Fruit-Bafket, are the moft con- fpicuous. Here are two noble cafcades, of ten falls each Thefe gardens are alfo ornamented with fixty-one very fine marble ftatues as large as the life, with twenty-eight marble vafes, and with twenty leaden vafes gilt. For the diverfion of the younger branches of the royal family, here is a mall of five hundred- and S P A I N. . 89 and eighty paces in length. Near which Is a large labyrinth. The gardens were laid out by a Frenchman, named Bouteleux. The fountain of Fame, which is the loweft in fituation, fpouts water to the height of one hundred and thirty-three feet eleven lines, French meafurc, which is exactly that of the weather-cock on the top of the church fteeple. The beft (latues in the garden are the following : The Four Elements. Juno, Neptune, Saturn, and a Nymph. Four allegorical figures, reprefenting Paftoral, Lyric, Heroic> and Satiric Poefy. Four Fames and two Satyrs ; a Cleopatra ; two Lions ; the Four Seafons ; the Four Quarters of the World ; Apollo and the Nine Mufes ; four HuntreiTes. Four groups of Cephalus and Procris •, Endymion and Diana; Zephyrus and Flora ; and Bacchus and Ariadne. Apollo, Daphne, Mercury, Pandora, Ceres, Bacchus, Atalanta, Lucretia, Faith, Glory, Munificence. The upper part of the palace contains many valuable paint- ings, and the lower part antique flatues, bufls, and bafTo re- lievos. All the rooms have their ceilings painted in frefco, and are decorated with large looklng-glafies made here. The floors are all of checquered marble, and the tables of the fineft Spanifh marbles of various forts. The windovvs, which reach from the ceiling to the floor, confift of large plates of glafs fet in lead gilt. N The 90 TRAVELS THROUGH The paintings that arc mofl remarkable are the following * : A fmall piece byMieris. Four by Teniers, which reprefent dancing. A large St. Sebaftian. Chrift and the Money-Tellers, n. f. A fleeping Cupid, with a fhell. Guido. A St. John, like that at Bologna by Raphael. Charles V. on horfeback, a fmall copy of that by Vandyke, which is in the pofleffion of lady Leicefter, at her feat at Holkam, in Norfolk. A Lucretia, n. f. The Marriage of St. Catherine, n. f. Two pieces by BaflTano, reprefenting Suppers. Two large pictures of Fowls, by Hondekoter. A St. Suaire with four Angels. Amiconi. The Marriage of St. Catherine, {■ 1. n. f P. Veronefe. A Boy and Girl with a Bird's Neft. Mieris. A copy of Guidons Madonna, which is engraven by Mr.. Strange. A Man and Woman telling of Money, by Reinier Marinus, 1538, much in the ftyle of Quintin Matfys, the celebrated: blackfmith. Two by Watteau. Four naked Cupids by Rubens, within a garland of flowers ■ and fruits, by another hand. * n. f. ftands for the natural fize ; w. 1. for whole length; {- and -i ].. for half and three quarter length. . The, SPAIN. 9, The infide of a chui'ch. P. Nef. A Copperfmith's Shop, by BalTano. A Whimfical Temptation of St. Anthony. The portrait of a Pope fitting, ^ 1. n. f. Four large Views of MefTina, Baya, the Grotto of Paufilipo, and the Strada Chiaya in Naples. Two Views of St. Mark's Square in Venice, hy Can.aletti. Six very large and fine Landfcapes by Claude Lorraine. A Man with his Wife, Maid, and Child, w. 1. n. f. L. Jordaans. A portrait of Erafmus. Two Madonnas, by Titian. Two Buftards. Four very large pidures, with cattle, &c. by Snyders, A Roman Charity, \r. 1. n. f. Twelve Heads in Crayons, by the late Queen-mother in 1 72 1 1 their chief merit confifts in being painted by a queen. A large and good pidure, reprefenting a Pope, fix Cardinals, and many Dodlors aflembled In council ; the figures are about fi.K inches in fize. A pidure thirty feet in length, containing upwards of fixty figures as large as the life, by Solimene : it reprefents the Sup- per of Herod, when the head of St. John was brought in after the Decollation. The Twelve Apoftles, by Rubens. Four fmall Baflanos. A Bacchanal, a Satyr, and two Cupids, w. 1. n. f, N 2 An 92 TRAVELS THROUGH An extraordinary reprcfentation of men and women fuppoled to be ftarved. A copy of the Venus of Titian, which is in the Medicis Col- ledion at Florence. A fmall piece, Sufan and the two chajle Elders. P. Veronefe. In a room pannelled with feven very large looking-glafles, are four paintings reprefenting defigns in architecture. Three very fine pieces of tapeftry, by P. Ferloni, reprefenting pope Benedidl XIV. St. John, and St. Cecilia. Two figures of Women's Heads, in mofaic ovals. In the apartments of the prince of Afturias, I faw the Hiftory of Don Quixote in feventy-two pieces, cut out in paper, by Pedro Lazo de la Vega. I afterwards faw this man in Malaga, and employed him in cutting a piece for me : he is now in London. . Avery good Italian Madonna. A picture by Baflano. A large Teniers. A fmall bronze model of the Toro Farnefe, and two bronzes . of Marcus Aurelius. In this palace is a fmall theatre, the roof of which is fuftain-- ed by ten verde cintico marble, and alabafter columns. There is another theatre in the town, but not worth feeing. The greateft part of the ground-floor of the palace, confift-. ing of twelve rooms, ferves for a repofitory of ftatues, bufts, and bafib relievos ; they are chiefly antique, and of Vvhite. marble, the principalof which are here enumerated.. SPAIN. 93 In the Firft Room. Leda j two ftatues ; five modern bufts. Ganymede ; three bufts. In- the Second. Two coloflal ftatues of Jupiter and Apollo. Three ftatues ; two termini j twelve heads : a head of Ho- mer, modern.. In the Third. A woman veiled, by Corradini. Hercules ; two ftatues ; a very fine fmall Seneca, fitting.. In the Fourth. Two Cupids with palm-branches, modern. Six ftatues ; a fmall ftatue j two bufts of black marble. In the Gallery. Neptune in a reclining pofture, larger than the life : this is a capital ftatue. Ten Egyptian Idols ftanding, and one fitting oi black bafaltes.: thefe reprefent Ifis, Ofiris, Semiramis, Priefts and Prieftefles» with uncommon Symbols. Two large ftatues, and a fmaller one. Fifty-fix bufts : thirty-four baftb relievos of heads, &c. A fmall Laocoon in baflb relievo. AbafTa.' 9 + TRAVELS THROUGH A badb relievo of alabafter ; the heads of the figures are of porphyry. A very line and large baflb relievo of Olimpia. Four columns, erxh a lingle block, ten feet high, two of which are of 'verde antico., and the other two of Grecian alabafter. In the Fifth Room. A circular altar of Bacchus, with feven figures, fifteen Inches each, in baflb relievo. Four heads j a modern Cupid ; and a modern head. In the Sixth. A coloflal Cleopatra, " recumbent:" this is a very fine ftatue. Two bulls in alto relievo. Four ftatues ; four bufts j two modern bufts. The Seventh Room, Which is decorated with fix very large looking-glafles, con- tains two bufts, feven porphyry vafes, and twelve modern bufts ■of coloured marble. In the Eighth. * A modern fountain of Apollo. Two ftatues ; ten bufts. Eight ftatues of the Mufes fitting : the ninth Is in Rome : thefe are of Grecian workmanftiip, and belonged formerly to thie SPAIN. 95 the queen of Sweden. Figures of thefe ftatues are engraven in Montfaucon's work, and alfo in that of Francifo Aquila. In the Ninth Room. Two ftatues ; ten bufls. In the Tenth. Two very fine Grecian ftatues, which reprefent two young men quite naked, crowned with laurel, one of whom holds a patera in his right hand, and has his left on the fhoulder of the other, who has a torch in each hand, with the one he fets fire to an altar fuppofed to be placed before an idol ; the other arm and torch are behind his back. Thefe ftatues have been defcrib- ed by many antiquaries, and are thought to reprefent Caftor and Pollux : they were once in the pofleflion of the queen of Sweden. The celebrated Venus Aphrodite, kneeling with one knee on a v^ large ftiell, called by the French la Venus aiix belles fejfes ; nine ftatues ; fix bufts. In the Eleventh. Daphne : the upper half is modern. A faun, with a kid on his flioulders, and the paftoral crook (pedum J in his right hand : this ftatue is attributed to Praxiteles,, and has been often defcribed. Two wild boars in alto relievo ; two ftatues ; three of Venus.. A modern copy of the Venus de Medicis, but with a veil on\ her body. 96 T R A V E L S THROUGH T he Twelfth, or laft Room contains A circular altar, w'lxh many figures ui baffo relievo, of the ;fame fize as that above mentioned. A coloflal Venus ; a ftatue ; fix modern bufis. Tt\'-o gigantic fl;atues of Cxfar and Pompey, of Grecian ala- tafter, but the heads, arms, and feet are of gilt bronze. St. Ildefonfo has been defcrlbcd by no other author than Father Caimo, who was here in 1755, becaufe the palace, gardens, and fountains were all begun and finifhed within thefe laft thirty years. His work is very fcarce, being prohibited in all Ca- tholic countries. 1 had the plcafure of being acquainted with him in Rome m ■1769, when he was fo kind as to prefen't me with his book, which is in four odlavo volumes, in the Italian language, con- taining an account of his travels. He embarked at Genoa for Spain, and landed at Barcelona, near which city he vlfited the convent, which is fituated on the top of the mountain of Mon- ferrato, from thence he proceeded to Madrid through Sarago^a. The defcription of thefe places conftitutes the firft volume of his work. Half the fccond volume is a defcription of the Efcurial ; the other half is an account of St. Ildefonfo, Segovia, Valladolid, and Salamanca, The SPAIN. 97 The third volume contains an account of the author's travels to Toledo, Aranjuez, Seville, and Cadiz ; from whence, in 1756, he embarked for Lifbon. The laft volume begins with a narrative of his voyage from Lifbon to London, of which laft city he gives a very curious ac- count : he afterwards embarked at Harwich for Helvoetfluys, and travelled through Rotterdam, Delft, the Hague, Leyden, Amfterdam, Utrecht, Dort, Antwerp, Bruflels, Ghent, Liflc, and Arras to Paris ; and from thence he proceeded through Lyons to Turin, where he concludes his work. On the 1 3th of March I fet out from St. Ildefonfo, and faw at a diftance a grand cafcade of melted fnow tumbling from a mountain. We then pafTed the fpring which fupplies the aque- dudl of Segovia with water. Two leagues farther, I faw the large palace which is now building for the accommodation of part of the royal family : it is of brick, and forms an exadt fquare, of three ftories in height, feventeen windows in length to each front, with a ftone baluftrade on the attic flory, orna- mented with a vafe, anfwering to each window. I paiTed the night in a lenta. March 14. We now travelled on the royal road, which is continued ^uite to Madrid : it is broad enough for five car- riages a-breaft, and very good, though carried over mountains. It fnovced all this day. At noon we had attained to the fummit O of 98 TRAVELS THROUGH of a mountain, where I obferved a lion couchant, extremely well carved in ftone, holding a fliield between his paws, with a Latin infcription, importing that Ferdinand VL had caufed this road to be made in 1749. At the bottom of this mountain, which is called the pafs of Guadarama, is a turnpike, the firft I faw in Spain : I here paid about three fliillings, and having pafled through it, entered in- to New Caftille. We dined at the village of Guadarama ; and» in the evening, arrived at the Efcorial, which is about fifty-fix miles diftant from St. Ildefonfo. The mountains we paffed over this day produce great quantities of pine and fir-trees, and are inhabited by numbers of eagles and vultures. The Efcorial is fix leagues and a .half diftant from Madrid, and is fituated in 40° 34' latitude: every half league along the road has a ftone to mark the diftance. There are three poft- houfes, \Yhere, within thefe four years, the king has eftablilhed four-wheeled poft-chaifes, with relays of mules. If a fingle perfon travels in one of thefe chaifes, it muft be drawn by two mules ; if two perfons, they muft take three ; w'hich regulation is after the method of travelling in France. Thefe mules trot as- faft as our poft-horfes, and thus the thirty miles are performed in four hours. Poft-chaifes are in like manner inftituted on the roads to the other three royal feats, but as yet no where - elfe in Spain. The SPAIN. 99 The village which gave name to this palace, is called cl Efco- rial, derived from the Spanilh word Efco?-ia., which fignifies the fcum of melted metal, becaufe formerly fome iron mines were worked here. The whole building confifts of a palace, a church, a convent, and a burial-place for the fovereigns of Spain. It was begun in 1563, by Philip 11. in confequence of a vow he made, if he fhould vanquifli the French army near St. Quintin's, which he did in 1557, °" ^^' Laurence's day. The architeds were John Bat. Monegro of Toledo, and John de Herrera, who finifhed it in 15S6. It is dedicated to St. Laurence : and as this faint is faid to have been broiled alive on a "gridiron, in the third century, the founder chofe to have the building on the plan of that culinary inflrument, the bars of which form feveral courts, and the handle is the royal apartments. Gridirons are met with in every part of this building ; there are fculptured gridirons, painted gridirons, iron gridirons, marble gridirons, wooden gridirons, and flucco gridirons : there are gridirons over the doors, gridirons in the yards, grid- irons in the windows, gridirons in the galleries. Never was inftrument of martyrdom fo multiplied, fo honoured, fo cele- brated : and thus much for gridirons. I never fee a broiled beef- ftake without thinking of the Efcorial. St. Jerom is the fecond patron of this place. The monks who inhabit this convent, to the number of tvv^o hundred, are Jeronymitcs, G 2 At loo TRAVELS THROUGH At the firft fight of the Efcorial, it conveys the idea of a fquare quarry of ftone above ground; for it is indeed the largeft, though not the moft elegant palace in Europe. The Doric archi- tedture prevails in it. It is wholly built of a grey ftone, called Beroqiienat refembling a kind of granite, though not fo hard. It is fituated in a dry foil, environed \N'ith barren mountains ; which fituation was chofen, becaufe the quarries which fupply the ftone made ufe of for building it, were near at hand. The Spanifh defcription fays, that the chief front is feven^. hundred and forty feet broad, and feventy feet high to the cor- nice, which goes round the whole fabric. I meafured it myfelf, and found the breadth to be no more than fix hundred and fifty-- feven feet : the fides, which I likewife meafured, are four hun- dred and ninety- four feet in depth ; the Spanifti book fays five, hundred and eighty. There is a fquare tower at each end of the four corners, faid- to be two hundred feet in height. The chief front, which has thirty-five windows in breadth, is turned towards the mountains, which are only a hundred paces diftant ; and, confequently, it is dark there half an hour before ; it is fo at the back front, which commands a fine profpedl, that, reaches quite to Madrid. It is faid, that there are four thoufand windows, and eight thoufand doors in this building ; one thoufand one hundred and, I N. loi ten of thefe windows are on the outfide of the four fronts. This number is falfely augmented by ahuoft all the defcribers of it, to eleven thoufand windows, and fourteen thoufand. doors. There are three doors in the chief front. Over the principal entrance are the arms of Spain, carved in ftone ; and a little higher, in a nich, a ftatue of St. Laurence in a deacon's habit, a gilt gridiron in his right hand, and a book in his left : this ftatue, which is fifteen feet in height, was executed by Joha, Bat. Monegro, and is of the BeroqiieTia ftone, except the head, feet, and hands, which are of marble. Diredly over the door are two enormous gridirons In ftone- baflb relievo. Through this door I entered into a large court, at the bottom of which is the church, which has five doors; over them are placed fix ftatues, each of feventeen feet in height : they were made by Monegro, and are of ftone, but with heads, hands, and feet of marble : they reprefent fix kings of Judah, their crowns, and other injignia, are of bronze gilt. The church is built Vi/ith a cupola, after the model of St, Peter's at Rome; and on each fide , is a tower with chimes.- The choir is fo ill placed, that it renders the church very ob— feure: here are two hundred and fixteen choral books in folio,, written^ 302 TRAVELS THROUGH ■written on parchment, with exceeding fine miniatures. Behind the choir is an aUar, oyer which is a reprefentation, as large as the Jife, of Chrift on the .Crofs : the body is of white, and tlie crofs of bhick marble. This is the celebrated crucifix, fculp- tured by the no lefs celebrated Benvenuto Cellini : this artift: publiihed a book on fculpture, dedicated to Cardinal de Medicis, printed in Florence in 1568. In p. 56, he fays, " Though I " have made many ilatues of marble, yet I fhall only mention " one, it being one of the moft difficult parts of the art to repre- *' fent dead bodies ; this is the image of Chrift crucified, in carv- *' ing of which I took great pains, working with all the atten- " tion and care which fuch a fubjeift requires, and I knew that " I was the firfl who had ever carved a crucifix in marble. I " finlflaed it in a manner that gave great fatisfa(3:ion to thofe *' who faw it : it is now in the pofleffion of the duke of Florence, " my mafter and benefador. I placed the body of Chrift on a " crofs of black Carrara marble, which is a ftone fo extremely *' hard, that it is very difficult to cut it." Cellini mentions this crucifix likewife in his Life, which was lately tranflated into Englifli by Dr. Nugent; in p. 389, of the fecond volume, he fays, " Having completely finiflied my " marble crucifix, I thought that if I raifed it a few cubits above " the ground, it would appear to much greater advantage than " if it were placed immediately upon it; fo I began to iliew it *' to whoever had a mind to fee fuch an exhibition. The duke " and duchefs being informed of this, one day, upon their retufn *' from SPAIN. 103 **from Plfa, came unexpededly with a grand retinue to my ** workfliop, in order to fee this image of Chrift upon the Crofs : " it pleafed them fo highly, that their excellencies, as well as " all the nobility and gentry prefent, beftowed the higheft enco- " miums on me. When I found that It gave them fuch fatif- " fadion, by their extolling it to the Ikies, I with pleafure '^ made them a prefent of it, thinking none more worthy of that " fine piece of work than their excellencies." Vafari, in his Lives of Painters and Sculptors, vol. II. p. 283, fays, " Cellini likewife made a Chrift upon the Crofs, as big as " the life, a moft exquifite and extraordinary performance : the " duke keeps it as a piece upon which he fets a very great value,, " in the palace of Pitti, in order to place it in the little chapel, " which he is eredting there, and which could contain nothing " more grand, nor more worthy of fo illuftrious a prince: in a. " word, this work cannot be fufficiently commended." The grand duke Cofimo fent it as a prefent to Philip II. It v/as landed at Barcelona, and was carried from thence to where it nov.' is, on men's fhoulders. At the foot of the crofs is in- fcribed, " Benvsnutus Zelinus, civis Florentlmis^ fac'iebat 1562." It is certainly the fineft crucifix extant, and I have been fo par- ticular in defcriblng it, becaufe it is the work of fo extraordi- nary a man, " whofe life is certainly a phsenomenon in bio- " graphy ; as to the man himfelf, there is not perhaps a more; " fingular chara£ler among the race of Adam ■^" * MiTcell. by Dr. Johnfon, and others, vol. III., p. 297,. I-D4 TRAVELS THROUGH If Cellini were yet living, what imprecations would he not Titter, if he knew that the priefts have, by way of ornament, tied a purple velvet gold laced petticoat round the waift of the flatue, and which defcends below the knees ! Near to this altar, in a nich, is a marble ftatue of St. Lau- rence, in a deacon's habit, as large as the life, with a gilt bronze gridiron in one hand, and a palm-branch in the other : it was found in the ruins of Rome, and fent to Philip IL by his ambaflador then refiding there. This flatue is in the ancient tafte, and is of good workmanfhip. The church contains forty-eight altars, in forty chapels. The great altar is decorated with fifteen bronze ftatues, to which is an afcent by feventeen red jafper fteps : on one fide is the monu- ment of Charles V. whofe effigies, together with thofe of his €mprefs, daughter, and two fifters, are reprefented kneeling, as large as the life, in gilt bronze : on the other fide is the mo- nument of Philip n. who, together with two of his queens, are -reprefented in like manner. All by Pompey Leoni, Here are eight organs, one of which is of filver, which are all performed on together, on folemn feftivals. There are eleven thoufand reliques preferved here, which I fhall not attempt to defcribe, as I did not fee one of them ; but in the Spanifh account of the Efcorial, in folio, printed in 1764, the SPAIN. 105 the defcrlption of them is fo curious, that I cannot refrain from making the following literal extradt, which will ferve to fhow of what immenfe value they are. " We will firft begin with the reliques of our Saviour, who, *' as he gave himfelf to us, left us fome of his precious jewels, *' which are incomparable and divine. " A facred hair of his moft holy head or bread, is preferved " here with the utmoft veneration in a precious vafe; and oppor- " tunity can never offer us a better hair to obtain glory by. Se- *' veral pieces of his moft holy crofs, all admirably garniihed *' with gold, filver, and jewels, efpecially that which is adored '* on Good-Friday. " Thirteen thorns out of his crown, which pierce the foul *' with their points, when we confider them as in the delicate *' temples of that moft loving king of glory. " Some pieces of the column to which he was bound, and *' of the manger in which he was born to die for us ; which " invite hearts to break in pieces through compaflion and ** gratitude. " All thefe are placed in very rich vafes; but it is not much *' that kings fhould fignalize themfelves in beftowing riches on " him, who left fuch precious reliques to them ; even the whole " prodigious edifice of the Efcorial is too fmali for the eftimation ■*' and reverence due to them. P « In io6 TRAVELS THROUGH '* In the fecond place, are the reliques of his moft holy mo*- *' ther, which gladden the heart of thofe who ferioufly confider *' their incomparable value. Three or four pieces of the habrt " which adorned that moft pure and virginal body, in which ** was formed that of Jefus Chrift our Lord, her fon, are placed ** in one cafe. Alfo a piece of the handkerchief with which fhe *' wiped her eyes, at the foot of the Crofs, when thofe tears, *' as precious as the gems of Aurora, joining with the rubies of ** the weftern fun, incorporated themfelves with the treafure of " our redemption. *' Befides thefe, we poflefs a hair, which may be fufpe£led to " be that which flowing down her neck, enamoured her fpoufe. '* The vafe which contains thefe reliques is of cryftal, with a " golden cover and ornaments : two kneeling angels fupport it, *• denoting the veneration due to thefe remains of their queen *' and our lady, who is elevated above all the angelical choirs . " in heaven. . " Eleven entire bodies of faints ; among which is that of a. " very little faint, who was one of the innocent children mur- . *' dered by order of Herod. *' One hundred and three heads, above twelve hundred arms *' and legs; the ftioulder-blade of St. Laurence, in a filver cafe, '* which is of fuch ancient workmanfhip, as fufficiently demon- *' ftrates the bone to be his : we may fafely leave to thefe arms ** the difpatch of the moft arduous negociations of our falvation, " which SPAIN. 107 *' which ought always to be prefent with us ; many of thefe *' arms and legs belonged to the two fquadrons of faints who " combatted under the banners of St. Maurice and St. Urfula. *' We poffefs alfo a thigh of the glorious martyr St. Lau- •'rence; it is entire, but the hair is toafted (fmged), the holes '• which were made in it by the prongs which turned him on *' the gridiron, are very vifible. One of this faint's feet ; the " toes are entire, though contradled : between two of them is a ** fmall cinder, which iii the eye of piety fhines like a carbuncle. *' A filver ftatue of St. Laurence, which weighs eighteen *' arrobas (of twenty-five pounds each) ornamented with gold, *' to the weight of eighteen pounds : he holds in his band one *' of the very bars of the gridiron on which he was broiled. ** The fmaller relics are innumerable. " In order to protedl the edifice from lightning, there are fe- *' veral reliques, efpecially fome of St. Laurence, its patron, in " metal cafes, inferted in the balls and crofles which are on the *' tops of the towers ; fo that if the ancients, for the fame " effe&y placed laurels on the fummits of their towers and other " edifices, which beautified and protedled them, becaufe they " thought that lightning would never flrike thofe plants; how .,, much better is this defended by fuch fuperior laurels?" P 2 Ifliall loS TRAVELS THROUGH I (hall leave the reader to make his own refledlons on the foregoing, and proceed with the dcfcription of the building j but injuftice, I inform him, that a Spaniih account in odava of the Efcorial, printed in 1773, fays, " As to the reliques " which are kept here, it is better and more concife to venerate " them, than to form a catalogue of them i" which is all that is therein faid about them. The tabernacle, on the great altar, is of porphyry, gold, and jewels, fixteen feet liigh ; it may be feen, but not touched by laymen. Odii profamim vulgus & arcet. Immediately under this altar is the Pantheon, defigned as a repofitory for the remains of the kings and queens of Spain : the defcent to it is by fifty-eight marble fteps, chiefly of jafper. This maufoleum is circular, and was built in 1654, according to the defign of John Bat. Crefcenzio. It is thirty-fix feet in diameter, and thirty-eight in height, and is entirely conftruded of the moft valuable marbles, highly polilhed, intermixed with ornaments of gilt bronze : round the wall are eight double columns of the Corinthian order, with their bafes and capitals of bronze gilt : between thefe are placed twenty-four urns, or fepulchral chefts of marble, of feven feet in length, in as many- niches, four over each other: two more urns are placed over the door which fronts the great altar. Thefe chefts are placed on four lions paws of gilt bronze, and are farther adorned with the fame metal : on each of them is a fhield, containing the name,- SPAIN. 109 nameof the king or queen whofe body is contained within. There are at prefent thirteen depofited here, which are thofe of Charles V. Philip 11. III. and JV. Charles 11. and Lewis I. The emprefs Elizabeth; [the queens Anne, Margaret of Auflria, Elizabeth of Bourbon, Marianne of Auflria, Louifa of Savoy, and Mary Amelia of Saxony. The bodies of the royal children,, and of thofe queens who left no iffue, are buried in a chapel near the Pantheon. There are fifty-one niches, forty of which, are occupied. Over the altar is a crucifix ; the crofs is of black marble, and the body of gilt bronze, as large as the life, made in Rome by Julian Fineli of Carrara, a difciple of Algardi ; but fome attri~ bute it to Pedro Taca : the back ground is of porphyry. The- cupola of the Pantheon is of marble, with foliages of gilt bronze : from the middle is fufpended a curious luftre of bronze gilt, of feven feet and a half in height, made in Genoa ; there are eight other branches for lamps, held by bronze angels, as the day- light only appears through a fingle window. The arms of Spain are reprefented over the door, in a kind, ©f raofaic of diff^erent coloured marbles, gold, filver, and. lapis lazuli. In the Sacrifty is kept a pccfloral crofs, worn about the neck of the prior on folemn days : it confifts of five dia- monds, eight emeralds, four rubies, and five pearls, of which; the: no TRAVELS THROUGH the largcft is of the fize of a pigeon's egg, and the other four are as big as filberds. Here I was likewife fhewn a book called el Capitularo., being nineteen fheets of parchment, on which are reprefented various feftivals of the year in miniature, by the delicate pencil of father Andrew Leone, and the other painters of the choral books. In the fmall chapel de la Santa Forma, is a very fine ciijlodia d'oftia, of filver Jilagrana^ which was made in China, and pre- fented to Charles IL by the emperor Leopold. In the palace are two meridian lines by John Wendlingen, a German Jefuit. The library, which confifls of two rooms, contains twenty- one thoufand volumes : about four thoufand three hundred of thefe are in manufcript ; of which, five hundred and feventy- feven are Greek, fixty-feven Hebrew, one thoufand eight hundred Arabic, and one thoufand eight hundred and twenty Latin and vulgar. The fire in 1661 burnt many MSS. among which were one thoufand two hundred in Arabic *". The largefl: room Is one hundred and ninety-four feet long ; iive marble tables are placed in it. On one of them ftands an * See Clarke, p. 131, and J55, for a further account of thefe MSS. equeflrian N. Ill equeftrian ftatue of Philip II. four feet in height, with a flave at each of the four corners of the pedeltal ; the whole is of filver. Some other filver flatues decorate the other tables. I faw a load-ftone here that weighs feven pounds, and fufpends an iron weight of twenty-fix pounds ; but if it were properly mounted, it might be made to fufpend one of feven hundred and. fifty pounds. This magnet is faid to have been extraded from, one of the neighbouring mountains.. In a fmali room called el Camerino, is a portable golden altar,. which was made ufe of by Charles V. the crofs of its crucifix is ornamented with a topaz as big as a hen's t^^, and with a dia- mond and ruby, each of the fize of a common bean ; the dia- mond may poffibly be fome kind of fapphire. Behind two fides of the Efcorial is a fmall garden, with a great number of fountains. The royal apartments contain nothing worthy of notice ; the kitchen and fruit-garden, with the park, , are about a league in circumference. I fhall now give fome account of the pi I's. collection. Chrift tied to the column : one of the beft works of Luca, Gambia fi. An Ecce Homo. Paul Veronefe.. A Madonna. Chrift in the Garden. This picture is decayed : it is a nightr piece, but the colours are much obfcured. Chrift interrogated about Cxfar's tribute, 1 1, n. f. The celebrated Magdalen, of which there are fuch an infinite number of copies, \ 1. n. f. St. SPAIN. 133 St. Margaret and the Dragon. St. Sebaftian, his hands tied behind him, and his body with. feveral arrows fhot into it. The Virgin, Child, St. John, and St. Catherine. Chrift crucified. Chrift fhown to the people. St. John in the defart. All by Titian. Magdalen drefling herfelf before a looking-glafs.. A penitent Magdalen. Both by Tintoret.- Here twice was drawn the am'rous Magdaline,, Whilft beauty was her care, then her neglect. And brighteft thro' her tears fhe feem'd to fhine. GoNDiB. book ii. canto vi.. St. Jerom. The Adulterefs. Both by Van Dyke. This laft piece is fcmewhat damaged. St. Margaret raifing a boy from the dead. Caravaggio A noli me t anger e, or Chrift appearing to Magdalen. Correggio* Mary giving fuck to the Child. Guido Rheni. The Sacrifice of Ifaac. P. Veronefe« The Affumption of the Virgin. Annibal Carraccio.-. Jpfeph with the Child in his arms. Guido Rheni.. Mary vifiting St Elizabeth. Mary, Child, and St. John. Both by Raphael. Chrift. bearing the Crofs. Sebaftian del Piombo, Vax 134 TRAVELS THROUGH In the Refe(ftory. The famous Supper, by Titian, fo well known by the print called the Table Cloth, engraven by IMaflbn. The figures are nearly as large as the life. The painter was feven years employed about this pidlure, and received two thou- fand golden crowns for it from Philip II. There is a pidure exadly like this preferved in the Royal Collection at Paris. In the Old Church. The Madonna of the Filli, already defcribed. The Martyrdom of St. Laurence, by Titian. This appears to be the fame defign as that which I faw in the Jefuits church in Venice, which is painted by the fame hand. A very old print of this pidure is extant, but I knov»r not by whom it was engraven. The Adoration of the Wife Men. The Sepulchre of Chrift. An Ecce Homo, and a dolorous Virgin. All by Titian. A Madonna, by Andrew del Sarto. Two fmall pictures of the two tombs that are in the church. The ceiling of the grand flair-cafe is painted in frefco, by Luca Giordano; and reprefents the battle of St. Quintin. There are feveral paintings In frefco in the great Cloifter by Pellegrini ; and in the great upper Cloifter are five pidures by €l Mudo, In SPAIN. 13^ In the Capitulo Prioral, which is a room of eighty feet long, and twenty feet wide. St. John embracing a lamb. Spagnoletto. Chrift with a globe in his hand. |- 1.. n f. Titian. A Madonna and Child. Van Dyke. Chrift at the wedding of Cana. P. Veronefe. A Madonna, by Frederic Barocci. Chrift in the garden, by Titian. This pidure is over the altar.. The Martyrdom of St. Juftina, by Luca Giordano.. Four flower pieces, by Daniel Seegers. St. Paul falling from his horfe. David triumphing over Goliah. Both by Palma the elder. The Crowning with Thorns. Van Dyke. The Centurion. P. Veronefe. Many figures, and noble archi- teflure, w. 1, n. f. rather damaged. A picture by Rubens, reprefenting the dead body of Chrift lying acrofs the lap of Mary, St. John wiping away his tears, and Mary Magdalen kiffrng the dead hand : the painting is very fine and natural, which only makes it the more difgufting. Another pidlure by Rubens, which is one of the fmeft in this whole colledion. I efteem it be next in value after Raphael's Madonna of the Fifli. It reprefents the Virgin fitting, the nak- ed child ftands in her lap, refling its little hand on the uncovered breaft of the mother ; Jofeph and St. Anne are ftand- ing by them. " Flerelife came out, and met the painter's thought.'' St;. .136 TRAVELS THROUGH St. Sebaftlan, with two men who are tying his feet to a tree, and a boy with bows and arrows, by Van Dyke. A very large head of St. Peter, and one of St. Paul, by Guido, Mary fwathing the infant ; St. John, and two women, by Paul Veronefe. Injured by time. The Conception of the Virgin. Rubens, n. f. This pidure reprefents Mary {landing on a globe, with a crcfcent and ferpent at her feet, and feveral angels flying about her. St. James, or Santiago, the patron of Spain, by Spagnoletto ; as large as the life. A Madonna fitting on a throne, the child fits on her lap, and is croAvned by two angels, who hover over it, by Guido Rheni. This is one of the moft capital pidtures that is preferved here. Over the door are two baflb relievos in porphyry ; one is a head of Chrift, the other is a Madonna and Child. In the Capitulo Vicarial, which is a room of the fame fi7.e as the laft, are likewife two baffo relievos in porphyry of Chrift and the Madonna. It contains moreover the following pictures. St. Jerom penitent in the defert, over the altar, by Titian, who alfo painted the allegorical pias born in ValladoHd, and died in Madrid in 1669, aged feventy : he could neither read nor write. The end of the ftage opens to the gardens, fo that the profpefl may be varied and extended at pleafure. This theatre is now no more made ufe of. It was here that Farinelli ufed to perform in the Italian operas during the late reign. There are a vafl: number of the large St, Ildefonfo looking- glafies in the rooms of this palace, and many fine pictures, of which the following are the moft remarkable : I could not learn the names of the painters of all of them. The ceiling of the grand faloon is painted in frefco by Luca Giordano, and reprefents the inftitutlon of the order of the Golden Fleece, in 1429, by Philip the Good, duke of Burgundy, with a variety of allegorical figures. The cornices are painted by Corrado. This faloon is fquare; one end opens into an odan- gular room entirely pannelled with fmall bits of looking-glafs, which refletSl images thoufands of times, fo that a fmgle foldier when here appears to form whole a regiment. At the other end is an oval room, the ceiling of which is painted ia frefco, by Luca Giordano. In one of the galleries here, is a very large pidure reprefent- ing the late king and queen of Spain, with twelve other per- fonages SPAIN. J Si fonages of the royal family ; whole length, and as large as the life, by Amiconi. The other pidures are, Twelve fmall pieces, and two large, by BafTano. Five with game, dogs, &c. Snyders. A very large pi£lure with four Shepherds, three Shepherdefles, and two Satyrs, by Rubens. The fi-uit, which is reprcfented in this piece, is by Daniel Seegers. Five large hiftorical pieces. An allegorical pidure reprefenting Spain triumphant. Orpheus and Eurydice. Cephalus and Procris. All by Luca Giordano. The figures as large as the life. A Holy Family, n. f. w.l. I conjedure by Titian. A Madonna flanding, with the child in her arms ; by Jor- daans, in the manner of Rembrandt. A Lion entangled in a net. Snyders. Adam and Eve driven out of Eden by the angel, n. f. w. 1. Probably by Titian, Portrait of an old Cardinal in 152 1. I think by Quintia Matfys, the blackfmith. Three Women and a Man laughing and eating pap. } 1. n. f. This is a very fine pidure, but I know not by whom it was painted. A Madonna and Bambino; which appeared to mc to have heen painted by Leonardo da Vinci. A King in his royal robes, and a General in armour, both fit- ting, w. 1. n. f. X A 154 TRAVELS THROUGH A fmall piece defigned for an attar ; the Three Perfons are re-^ prefcnted above, and various fubjeds are painted in eight coni- partments, by Baffano. St. Jerom in the defart. | Figures of three feet. By Nicholas. The Samaritan. J Pouffin. Portrait of a man vpritlng. Orpheus and the beafts. Titian, w. 1. n. f. Tw^o flower pieces. The Judgment of Paris. Mercury and Argus, w. 1. n. f. Rubens. This lafl is a copy of that which is in the new palace. The Death of Dido ; copied from the pidlure painted by Guido, which is preferved in Houghton-hall. A Refurredion, by Francis Collantes, 1630. This is a very fine, but horrible pldlure : many bodies appear to rife out of their tombs, fome have only a little flefli on their bones, fomc are reprefented as rotten, others with a livid palenefs, and wild looks of horror and fear. The painter was born at Madrid, and died in 1656, aged fifty-feven. Twelve very large hiflorical pictures, four of which reprefent the wars of Granada, the others are fubjeds from the Old Tefta- ment, by Luca Giordano. Seneca expiring in the bath. Two or three pidures by Velafquez. The pope celebrating mafsin the Sixtine chapel. Small figures. In one of the rooms I faw a table of Florentine mofaic. This N. ^55 This palace was built by the count-duke of Olivares, in the reign of Philip IV. and is fituated near the Prado, or public Mall, which has lately been embellifhed, by planting young trees on each fide of it, and by ftone benches and fountains. In the church of the Salefan nuns, over the great altar, is a fine copy of Raphael's Transfiguration. In the Sacrifty of the church de los Recoktos, are the follow- ing pictures. A dead Chrift fupported by two angels. As large as the life. This is one of the beft pictures Correggio ever painted. A Madonna, Bambino, St. Anne, and St. John. Half length, n. f. Raphael. A Magdalen's head. n. f. w. 1. Spagnoletto. St. John, n f. w. I. El Mudo. A head of Chrift, by Morales, in the manner of Albert Durer. Morales was born at Badajoz, and died there in 1586, aged ■feventy-fevcn. He was furnamed the Divine, becaufe he painted nothing but holy fubjedl^. Chrift and the Samaritan Woman, n. f. ByMurillo. The Royal Library is open to the public, and confifts of two long rooms, forming a right angle. X 2 The 156 TRAVELS THROUGH The amphitheatre, confiruded m 1767, is a plain oval build- ing, with three rows of galleries over each other. During the carnival here are fixtccn mafquerades exhibited. The other evenings of that feafon of ^ifl'ipation, are allotted to dancing fandangos, minuets, and Englifli country-dances. Mr. Baretti gives an account of this edifice, and the fandango, which, though I had no opportunity of feeing in public here, by rea- fon of its being Lent, yet I faw danced in various private af- femblies in Madrid, and afterwards in every place I was in. The fury and ardour for dancing with which the Spaniards are poffeffed on hearing the fandango played, recall to my mind the impatience of the Italian race-horfes ftanding behind the rope, which being fixed acrofs the ftreet breaft-hlgh reflrains them ; and the A-^elocity and eagernefs with which they fet off, and run without riders the inftant that that barrier is removed. There are two kinds of fandangos, though they are danced to the fame tune : the one is the decent dance ; the other is gallant, full of expreflion, and, as a late French author energetically ex- preffes it, " eft mele'e de certaines attitudes qui offrent un tableau , *' continuel dc jouiflance." In the didionary, entitled, Sobrino Atwientado por F. Cormon printed at Antwerp in 1769, the Fandango is thus defcribed: *' It is a kind of very lively dance, which the Spaniards have *' learnt from the Indians." I know . EL FANDANGO. V\ \ ^'^ A rjiT J i rnjT ^ f^ ^fe LLrcx:'LULir ' L-U * P rrrr i firrrrrN.^ , rrr i Trn r rftf|^ ^s .:,/7; i j:ini i ;7in7 i -^^i/?j/7? i ffiffli/7Jffl i 'UJ ' rrrrrr ' rrf'rrr ' rrf f rr i LLTLLn Lu u j ii_u t -^ i LU LIT ' Ci: LU w LIT mjT] | n^J71 | JTjim.JT^^T^ LULLT ' mLLf ' CXrUJ ' ^J ffi^ E rir:p,,i:;:p.. i Fyy ^^llj u--ri^rrrrrr'ffrfLa w w > m [IT 'Lff'lif ' LLr ll; ILU LLJ mr^ 'j: 'm iU »» ■ • * H ^ ^tCJTLr czrcrr [£f[£r ' Lif,.L£-r 'uiui SPAIN. 157 r know not what foundation there is for this affertion. The celebrated air, known by the name o£ la follia di Spagnay. which, with its variations, is at the end of the fet of folos by Corelli, was probably conipofed to gratify the defire of fome Spaniard, who wilhed to have the favourite national dance of his country immortalized by that great mufician. The modu- lation of thtfollia is exadtly fimilar to that of xh.^ faiidd^igO) and the name farther demonftrates the truth of this affertion *. The circular amphitheatre for the bull-fights, is built of woodl- and was eredled in 1749. Formerly thefe exhibitions were in the Great Square, where there have been none fmce that in 1760, on the prefent king's acceffion. The inner circle, or area of this amphitheatre, is one hundred and fixty feet in dia- meter : there are two rows of covered boxes, one hundred and ten in each row : the other feats are without any covering. The- profits arifing from the hire of the places, are appropriated to the benefit of the royal hofpitals. The firil bull-fight I faw was in Andalufia, which 1 fhall de- fcribe hereafter. There are no hackney coaches in Madrid j but carojjcs de remife may be had at about half a guinea per day. * This remark was fuggefted to me by Mr. Giardini, who has likewife been fo obliging as to fet a bafs to ^t fandango, of which the notes are in- ferted in the annexed plate. 158 TRAVELS THROUGH Three weeks before my arrival in Madrid, two criminals had "been hanged ; their heads and arms had been cut ofF, and ftuck •on ports on the highway : they were now brought again to Ma- ■drid, and expofed on an altar In the open ftreet, with a box to receive alms, in order to pay for their burial, and for having maffes faid for their fouls. This fight was highly difgufting, the heads and arms being rotten, and emitting a very olFen- five fmell. Juft without the gate, at the end of the ftreet of Atocha, I obferved fome very fine madder growing wild on one fide of the road : I gathered a few of thefe plants, and afterwards, on mak- ing enquiry how they came to grow^ here, I was informed, that a few years ago a Dutchman had endeavoured to cultivate madder, but had broke and left Spain, and that thefe were fome ■of the plants which he had reared. I afterwards fawr more madder growing wild in the garden of the governor of Alicant, about two leagues from that city. No- body there knew even what plant It was : It appeared to me to be as fine and thriving as any I had fecn In Zealand. I never found it in any other places In Spain. Miller, in his Gardener's Dictionary, v. Ruir'a, fays, that he received fome from Gibraltar and Minorca, where the plants grew out of the crevices of the rocks. The SPAIN. 159 The Great Square in Madrid is built around with houfes of an equal height, on porticos. On one fide is an edifice appropriat- ed to the ufe of the Royal Academy of Painting, Sculpture, and Architedure : feme of the members were at that time fent to Granada, to take plans and drawings of the Alhambra, or Moorifh palace of that city, which I fhall defcribe hereafter. There are three other Royal Academies in Madrid, that of the. Spanifli Language, that of Hiflory, and that of Phyfic. A printing-prefs for mufic was lately eftablifhed here : I pur* chafed fome of this mufic very neatly engraven. Don Manuele Salvador Carmona is the chief Spanifh engra- ver j his prints are well known in England and in France : he ftudied the art in Paris, at the expence of his fovereign. Don Thomas Lopez is the king's geographer, and is now publifhlng a fet of large maps of each of the provinces of Spain and Portugal : they are defetlive in point of longitude and latitude, but carefully mark every village and venta. A plan of Madrid was publifhed in four large fheets in 1761. Don Lewis Boccherini, the celebrated violoncello player and compofer, refides here : he is an Italian. There are two theatres in Madrid for the performance of Spanilh plays: I faw rope-dancing in one of them, which was El. i6o TRAVELS THROUGH El theatro de la Cruz, where there are three rows of boxes, fifteen in each row. Part of the pit has benches, with arms di- viding them into diftind feats. It may not be thought improper to give the plot of a Spanifli comedy, and afterwards that of an entremes, or interhide : this latter will match that of which Mr. Baretti has given an account. The comedy is called Difdain •with Difdain, was written by Don Auguflin Moreto, and is efteemed one of the beft Spanifh plays ; it is in three ads (as they all are), in a kind of meafured profe, and fometimes in verfe. The adors are, The Earl of Urge!, ^ The Prince of Bearne, \ three fuitors of Diana. Don Gafton Earl of Foix, J The Earl of Barcelona, father of Diana. Polilla, a Buffoon ; fervant to the Earl of Urgel, Diana, daughter to the Earl of Barcelona. Cinthia, "| Phenifa, | three Ladies of the court of Diana. Laura, J Muficians. The fcene is in the Earl's palace in Barcelona during the whole play, excepting that, for a fhort time, in the fecond ad it is in the garden of the palace. The play begins with a dialogue between the earl of Urgel •and his fervant, in which the earl acquaints him with his paf- flOB SPAIN. i6r fion for Diana, and gives a long account of the uncommon dif- pofition of that princefs, who profeffes an unconquerable aver- fion to love, and had rather fufFer death than be married, though fhe is the only hcircfs to the fovereignty: Polilla com- forts him, and encourages him to hope for an alteration in the princefs's opinions. To them enter the earl of Barcelona, the prince of Bearne, and Don Gafton. Thq three fuitors alk the father's leave to try to gain the affedions of his daughter, by feafts, affiduities, &c. Urgel pretends that his trial is only out of complaifance. They all retire, and then Diana, the three ladies, and their attendants enter. Her muficians are finging fongs againft love, profefFing an utter averfion to that weaknefs. Polilla enters, and by dint of buffoonery, gets received into the houfe as Diana's buffoon, concealing his belonging to Urgel. Then the earl of Barcelona, and the three princes enter. Diana explains to them her reafons againfl: marriage ; Urgel alone feigns to approve of them, and tells her, that he not only hates to love, but moreover hates to be beloved. She, furprifed to be outdone at her own weapons, difputes with him, and, by contradidting her, he artfully drav/s her to a confcffion, that though fhe does not, nor cannot love, neverthelefs fhe likes to be beloved. The count pretending it impofhble for all the charms reen), little fufpedting his deceit, to entice the earl into the garden : he excufes himfelf, pretending not to have known that fhe had been there, and retires. Polilla then politely tells her, that the earl grofsly defpifed her fqualling; which concludes the fecond adl. The third and iaft a£l begins with a converfation between the three princes. Bearne and Don Gallon tell Urgel that they will take Cinthia and Phenifa, pretending to be in love v/ith them, being convinced of the impoflibility of fucceeding with Diana; which accordingly they do, and court them in Diana's prefence, who can hardly contain herfelf, at feeing others thus preferred y 2 to i64 TRAVELS THROUGH to her, and endeavours to recall the two princes to her obedi- ence, by feeming to defpife the weak charms of their belles^ and by granting them fome flight favours. Being left alone -^vith Urgel, (he, as her lafl refource, ac- quaints him, that having maturely confidered her being an only child, fhe is at laft become fenfible of the folly of her antipathy to marriage, is determined to acquielce in her father's defire, and has accordingly chofen the prince ofBearne, attempting to excite Urgel's jealoufy, and awaken his love, by a long fpeech in praife ofBearne. Urgel approves her refolution greatly, tells her he will fly to acquaint Bearne with his good fortune, and that himfelf is become a votary to^ the charms of Laura, and leaves Diana in a ftate of defpair. In the laft fcene all the adors being aflTembled, the princefs, unable to conceal her love any longer, and fearing to lofe Urgel; openly avows her paffion for him : he then difcovers his artifice, and they are united, which concludes the piece; wherein the author has fliown great judgment and know^ ledge of women : many ftrokes of humour are difperfed through- out Polilla's fpeeches ; the arguments pro and con about love are very ingenious. Though the dramatic unities are little re- garded, the time being ten or twelve days, this comedy is ftill a£led on moft of the Spanifh theatres, and is a ftanding play. The proper title would be Difdainfor Difdain. The incidenta are all natural and fimple, which makes the plot the more beau- tifuJi, SPAIN. 165 tiful, and capable of being imitated in any language, becaufe women being nearly alike in all countries, this is not a mere charaderiftical Spanifh play.. The Entremes, which now follows, is of a different nature : it is entitled the Hog of St. Anthony. The dramatis perfonae: are, a Hufband, his Wife, a Conftable, a Sacriftan, and a Sow-gelder. The hufband enters penfively, and in a follloquy declares,, that he fufpedls his wife's having a criminal intercourfe with, the Sacriflan. He furprifes them converfing together; the facriftan walks off, and the hufband beats his wife till fhe confefTes, that the facriftan told her he loved her. The hufband tells her he is obliged to go to a diftant village, where he will remain all- night, but intends to go only to his neighbour's houfe, in or- der to watch her. Soon after his departure fhe apprifes the facriflan of it, who comes for admittance, counterfeiting the mewing of a cat. He- tells her, that he is at her feet attending her commands, " From age to age, for ever and ever, amen." She advifes him to a£t cautioufly, becaufe her hufband was but juft gone, and might foon return. He anfwers, that his headr- ,66 TRAVELS THROUGH liead-picce will find a remedy for every thing, and that fhc may make him pals for St. Anthony's hog. In the mean time, the hufband knocks at the door, and the wife orders the facrif- tan to get into the hog-fty. The hufband calls to his wife to open the door, and (he tells him to wait till fhe has put on her fhift : flie then lets him in. He accufes her of changing colour, fattens the door, and declares he will fearch the houfe. The wife implores the afliftance of the Virgin Mary, and vows to offer her a little filver facriftan, if flie delivers her out of this fcrape. The hufband fearches every where, and fees fomething move in the hog-fly. His wife tells him it is St. Anthony's hog that was brought there the day before, becaufe it fpoiled the garden, and that fhe had fafkened it with a rope. The fa- criftan runs on all four, with a hog's head faftened over his own. The hufband, who feigns to miflake him for a real hog, afks his wife whether it is gelt ? She anfwers, that to her cer- tain knowledge it is not. The fow-gelder paffes by, and the hufband goes out to call him in. The facriftan fays, " thou *' devil of a woman, what fhall I do, if they take away my ap- *' pendages?' She anfwers, " Heaven will provide againfl it." The hufband goes to fetch a cord to tie its feet : in the mean time, the facriftan fwears, that he will drink the blood of the fow-gelder if he fbrs. This poor fellow cries out, " libera me " domine." The hufband returns, and fays, " I will difarm " this hog that wanted to arm me :" he throws a noofe over him ; the facriftan ftruggles, and they fight. The con- ilablc hearing the noife, breaks open the door, and feparates them, SPAIN. 167 them, which concludes this Ingenious and elegant entertain- ment *. Between the comedy and the farce, tonadillas are fung : thefe are cantatas for two, three, or four voices, the mufic of which is national and uncommon, and confifts of three or four airs, fet in different keys, and different movements. After this per- formance there is ufually a fandango danced on the ftage. A feguedilla is only a part of a tonadilla. Next door to the Inn where I lodged, lived la Signora Belluo- mini, daughter to the late Signor Amiconi, the painter : that lady poffelfes many piaggage to unload and reload, I was in it when it overfet, but received no hurt. May SPAIN. 233 May 18. It rained all this day; and having travelled five leagues, of which the laft two were over a fertile plain, produc- ing corn, olives, flax, and hemp, and dined in a venta, we entered into the city of Granada, which is fifty-two leagues diftant from Carthagena. Thefe leagues were fo long, that on computing the time we had been travelling, which was feven days, or fcventy-eight hours journey, at only three miles per hour, the diftance is at lead two hundred 'and thirty-four Englifh miles, or thirty-three miles a day, performed by a fingle horfe drawing a chaife with two perfons in it, and two large trunks behind it; the calefleiro and foldier having walked all the way, except now and then that I permitted them to ride on my horfe. Few of ourEnglifh poftilions or horfes would be able to undergo fuch fatigue, efpecially during that hot feafon. We put up at the inn kept by gypfies *, and procured a French traheur to fupply us daily with provifions, ready drefled. May 19. After having delivered feveral letters of introduc- tion, which I had brought from various places, one of the gen- tlemen to whom I was addrefled, accompanied me about the city. It is one of the largeft in Spain, and contains ninety thou- fand inhabitants -f- ; its form is circular, and it is fituated in a plain, three leagues from the foot of the Sierra Nevada moun- * Thefe kind of inns are called Mefoms by the Spaniards. -}■ A plan of this city is extant; it was published in two fheets, towards fthe end of the laft century. H h tains, 234 TRAVELS THROUGH tains, whofe fnowy tops agreeably diverfify the perpetual ver- dure of the environs. The fmall rivers Darro and Xenilrun' through the city. In the evening I attended feveral ladies to the play : the theatre is very mean and dark, and the ading was. yet worfe, confifting of low and ribald buffoonery ; however, I was much entertained with the tonadillas and feguedillas which were fung, and with a fandango which was danced between the adls : the reprefentation began at four, and lafted four hours. The ladies afterward took aa airing in their chariots drawn by four and fix mules, flowly driving backwards and forwards along - the mall, or alameda, which is very pleafantly planted with trees on the fide of the river Xenil : the gentlemen walked on foot, and from time to time got on the footftep of the carriages, placing their arm over the coach door, corteja7ido las fenoras, fcicijbeing the ladies), which ceremony " I could not in con- " fcience" difpenfe with, as I had now acquired a. fufficient knowledge of the language to be very fenfible of the charms of. thefe ladies' converfation. At nine we all adjourned to a coffee- houfe, and refrelhed ourfelves with ice-creams, as is cuflomary- every evening in all the fouthern climates of Europe. May 20. I fpent this day in viewing the chief edifices of the city. I went firft to the cathedral, which is very large ; the in-- fide is within thefe ten years entirely cncrufted Vv'ith the fineft; marbles, highly poliflied, and enriched with ornaments of gilt bronze ; but the whole is executed in fo wretched and defpicable a manner, that it only infpires contempt for the ignorance of the - archlteds. S P A I N. 235 :archite£ls, fculptors, and mafons who were employed in it, and for the perfons who employed them. In the adjoining royal chapel are interred king Ferdinand and his queen, Ifabel, who conquered Granada from the Moors in 149?, with their daugh- ter, and her hufband Philip I. father to Charles V. The church of Sa?2 'Juan de Dios (St. John of God), has a handfome ftone front : the cloiilers were painted in frefco in 1749, by Diego Sanchez y Saravia, who was yet living. I then went to the circular amphitheatre, which was ere£ted for the bull-feafts in 1768-9 : it is built of brick, but the feats are of wood ; it has two rows of boxes, fixty-eight in each row : the inner area is one hundred and eighty-five feet in diameter: this edifice coft three hundred thoufand reals, or about three thoufand four hundred pounds; it is likewife made ufeof as a W(?;z/^(?, where the, gentlemen of the Maejiranza exercife their horfes. In the even- ing I rofe on horfeback with a Spanifh gentleman to the Sacro Monte., or Holy Mountain, Juft without the city, where I was Ihewn a few caves, called' mafmorras, wherein the Moors for- merly confined the Chriftians, and where they murdered ten holy bifhops, who without doubt are " now happy." A church and convent is ere£ted on this fpot : the church pofleffes the re- lics of the bifliops, and the friars poflefs a very capacious cellar filled with hogfheads of excellent wine, which made me pay more attention to the cafks than to the bifhop's bones. The worthy owners of the cellar cordially invited us to tafte their li- • anfwer is ; " How, certain ! it is an account approved by 'tha " church ; a Francifcan account, that the virgin mother, Mary " de Jefus de Agredaf, affirmed to have been revealed to her by " God, and it ought to be taken for granted." Such co- gent arguments indeed admit of no reply. In another part of this book, is the following curious dialogue between a Grana-. dine and a ftranger, who are walking in a fquare, called del Triunfo. " Gran. I imagine, fir, you do not know why thiS' " is the moft chearful fpot in Granada; at all times, in all fea-. " fons, in rain, fun-fliine, wind, or fnow, it is always plea- " fant. Stranger. And for what other reafon can it be fo, ex-. " cept by its being large and eminent? Gra-n. Oh! fir, if, ** you were a Granadine, your nature itfelf would indicate to you " the caufe of its fplendor ; the glad and tumultuous beatings of, *' your heart would inform you. Do not you fee that column *' that fuftains all heaven ? Do not you fee that this fpot is the. * A reprefentation of it is inferted in the plate. t This faint was born in i6o2. In the third volume of Dr, Geddes's Tra£ls is an account of her life. " auguft SPAIN. 245: "auguft place of refidence of the ever brilliant fun of heaven' " and earth ? Do not you fee, that there ftands Mary, the mofl' " holy, our lady, reprefented in the adorable myftery of " her immaculate conception ? Caufa nojlrce letitice,'''' &c. &c,. &c. &c. &c. * But to return to the Alhambra, I have only to add, that the*^ before -mentioned Don Diego Sanchez, was at that time, by or- der of the Madrid Royal Academy of the three fine arts, aihfted' by feveral of its members, employed in taking exadl plans, eleva- tions, views, &c. both general and particular, of this palace, of which I faw fome that were already engraven; one of which was a copy of a piece in frefco, faid to be painted by the Moors; it reprefents three kings fitting ; very ftiff and bad, but the co- louring is gay and brilliant, and intermixed with gold and filver. They are intended to be publifhed in a folio volume, which will be an unique in its kind, as there is in no other part of Europe fuch a noble and well preferved fpecimen of the Moorifh architedlure, nor any modern palace in a more happy fituation. By way of- appendix to that work, the defcription and plates of Charles the Fifth's palace are intended to be added, though it is very uncer- tain when it will be publifhed. I wanted to purchafe copies of- ■* Dr. Geddes, in his firil volume of Miscellaneous Tracts, firft pub- lifhed in 1690, gives an account of part of a pocket-handkerchief found in the mountains of Valparayfo in 1595, which the Granadines believe to have- bfcn ufed by the Virgin Mary to wipe her eyes with ; the doctor's motto tp. this account is, , "■ Parturiunt monies, najchur ridiculus wui." U i^-i ^^0 t^"* aHil 246 TRAVELS THROUGH all the finifhed drawings, but Don Diego had pofitive order* from his majelly not to part with them, and it was with much difficulty, that I perfuaded him to confent to my copying the ge- neral view of the Alhambra. I was difappointed in my intentions of waiting on his excel- lency Don Ricardo Wall, an Iriih gentleman, who is one of his Catholic majefty's privy-counfellors, and a lieutenant-gene- ral, refiding here, as he had, a few days before my arrival, fet out for Aranjuez to join the court. On the 24th of IV^ay I fet out from Granada, taking a foldler as a guard, and traverfmg the village of Santa- Fe, dined in a venta, and paffed the night in the town of Loxa, whofe envi- rons are very agreeable. This day's journey, of eight leagues, vsras over a plain, producing corn, flax, hemp, beans, and faffron : we law a great number of eagles ; thefe birds fly ex- ceeding high, and float upon the air in a circular motion, hardly ftirring their wings. ^ay 25. We pafled over two high mountains, and dined at a venta, no more than three leagues diftant from Loxa, but ■which had notwithftanding required feven hours to perform them in. We afterwards pafled over another mountain, having a dif- tant profped: of the city of Antequera ; and, after four leagues journey, entered into the kingdom of Andalusia, and put up for the night at the village of Alamea, having traverfed a foreft of green SPAIN. 247 green-oaks. Large lizards, of the kind before mentioned, were very numerous, and the roads were covered with locufts, grafs- hoppers, crickets, and the beetle, known by the name of tumble-dung; this infed: is very common in America. In the eighth volume of the Hiftory of Animated Nature, p. 137, is- the following account of it, which is true in every refpe<3:. . " That beetle which the Americans call tumble-dung, particu-- " larly demands our attention; it is all over of a dufky black, " rounder than thofe animals are generally found to be, and fo " ftrong, though not much larger than the common black. " beetle, that if one of them be put under a brafs candleflick, " it will caufe it to move backwards and forwards, as if it were " by an invifible hand, to the admiration of thofe who are not '• accuftomed to the fight ; but this ftrength is given it for much " more ufeful purpofes than thofe of exciting human curiofity, " for there is no creature more laborious, either in feeking fub- " fiftence, or in providing a proper retreat for its young : they " are endowed with fagacity to difcover fubfiftence by their ex- " cellent fmell, which direds- them to excrements juft fallen " from man or beaft, on which they inftantly drop, and fall un- " animoufly to work in forming round balls or pellets thereof,. " in the middle of which they lay an egg. Thefe pellets they " convey three feet deep into the earth, where they lie till the *' proper feafon, when the eggs are hatched, and burfl: their " nefts, and the infeds find their way out of the earth. They " work with indefatigable induftry in rolling thefe globular pel- "lets to the place where they are to be buried : this, they are to " perform 2+8 TRAVELS THROUGH "perform with the tail foremoft, by raifing up their hinder part, " and Ihoving along the ball with their hind-feet." The largeft 1 faw was about the fizc of a walnut. Thefe beetles quit their labour if any others come to their affiftance, from whence is de- rived the Spanifli proverb, " La ayuda del ejcaraho.jo, que dexa " la carga quando k ayudan :" the affiftance of the beetle, which leaves its work when it is aflifled *, May 26. After travelling four leagues among olive-trees and green oaks, we dined at the village of Herrera, and at ten at night arrived at the city of Ecija, having pafled the river Xenil over a Aone bridge of three arches. During thefe laft four leagues I obferved nothing remarkable, except ten eagles flying circular- ly, and near each other : and that a few fmall ftone croffes were placed on the fides of the road, to mark the fpots where travellers had been murdered, but the ancient dates on thefe erodes quieted our apprehenfions of meeting w'ith the fame fate. T una cruz el parage determina De la tragica muerte repentina, En alguna infcripcion muy mal grabada, De las lluvias y el fol medio borrada. Obferv. Ruftico. *' And a crofs fhows the place of the tragical fudden death, with ^' a badly engraven infcription, half worn out by the fun and the ■*' rains.'" * Scarabeus Pilularis, Linn. Syft. Nat. 550. This is not the only fpecies which employs itfelf in forming balls of dung. May SPAIN. 249 May 27. I remained all this day at Ecija ; this city is fituated on the river Xenil, over which is a ftone bridge of ten fmall arches. Near it is the Alameda, which was planted three years ago with young poplars : there are five ftone columns, three at one end of this walk, and two at the other ; on the tops are placed the ftatues in marble of the prefent king of Spain, the prince and princefs of Afturias, Don Lewis, and my Lord St. Paul (El Senor S.in Pablo J all moft execrably done. Before the door of the ftye where I refided, is an enormous gilt ftatue of Saint Chriftopher the Giant, probably by the fame ingenious hand as the others. The theatre was lately built, and is of wood ; it contains three rows of boxes, fifteen in each rov/ : the boxes are ornamented with baluftrades, and the firft row is fuftained by fifteen wooden pillars; underneath are benches, elevated gradually above each other : the feats in the pit are all appropriated to particular perfons, who lock them up af- ter the performance, and referve the key. Here are fix parifli churches, twelve convents of friars, eight nunneries, and fix hofpitals. I waited on the marquis de Quintana, who accom- panied me to fee a cock-fight : the cocks had been procured from England ; the battle and the betting were alfo after the Englifh cuftom. The marquis de Peiiaflor poflefles the moft confpicuous "houfe in this city ; it is very large, and contains fountains in al- moft every room of the ground-floor, rendering them very cool and refrefliing in this climate, which is called the frying-pan of Spain. The chief fquare is large, and is furrounded by porticos. K k May 250 T R A V E L S T H R O U G H May 28. Travelling three leagues on a plain, among corn- fields, olive-trees, and vines, the road bordered with hedges, aloes, and myrtle, we dined at the village of Carlotta, which was built at the king's expence, in the year 1769, and granted, to German and Italian families, rent-free. All along this roado are a number of fmall new-built houfcs, environed by cyprefs- trees, likewife inhabited by Germans, who make part of the co- lony, to the number of thirty thoufand, procured from the Pa- latinate of the Rhine, for peopling the Sierra Morena, which is a chain of mountains feparating Andalusia from New Caftile, . at leaft eighty leagues long, but of unequal breadth, and called Morena., from its brown colour. The inn in this village is kept by an Italian, and is the bell I ever met with on the road in Spain. Arifing from onr Jiejia, we proceeded over hills, on- a ftony road, and paiTcd over a brick bridge of tive arches : on a church fieepie I obferved young ftorks in their ncfts. We afterwards defcended a mountain, and paffing the river Guadal- quivir over a ftone bridge of fixteen arches, immediately en-- tered into the city of Cordova : we paid toll for the paf- fage over this bridge, on the fide of which is placed a bad . llatue of the angel Raphael, holding a Ihield, with this in- fer iption : '• To te jiiro por Jefii Xpo, que foi Raphael angel, *' aquie Dios tiene puejio por guar da de ejia ciud.'''' " I fwear to *' thee by Jefus Chrift, that I am Raphael the angel, whom God ' ** has placed as a guard to this city:" and in a fquare, near the end of the bridge, is a gilt ftatue of the fame guard, perched on the top of a high marble column. The S P A I N. 251 The weather was intenfcly hot this day, fo that I was glad to remain within doors at the inn. The diftance from Granada to Cordova is thirty-one leagues. I here difmifled my guard (not Angel Raphael J, and never after had occafion for any other. Cordova gave birth to the two Senecas, and to Lucan the poet. Duofque Senecas, unicumqueLucanum Facunda loquitur Corduba. Mart. And during the time of the Moorifh empire, Avicenna and Averroes were likewife born here. The great fquare is large and regular, and is furrounded by porticos. The bifhop's palace is fituated on the fide of the river, and his gardens are open to the public. The cathedral was built by Abderamo, king of the Moors, in the year 787, and ftill retains the name of Mefquita ; it is an unique in its kind; it is very large, the roof is flat and low, without any tower, though the Spaniards have built one near it : there are four or five Ara- bic infcriptions over the doors. The roof is fuftained by a very great number of columns, placed in fuch an irregular manner, that I fpent half a day in endeavouring to form fome kind of a plan fo as to be able to count them, but without any fatisfaGory fuccefs; however, I am certain, that their number furpafics five hundred and ninety ; and in the cloifters, without the church, are upwards of forty more : thcfe columns are each of a fingle .piece, fome of marble, fome of jafper, of granite, of porphyry, K k 2 of 252 TRAVELS THROUGH of alabafter, of verde antico, &c. their height from the bafe to^ the capital is ten feet, and their diameter one and a half; the capitals much refemble thofe of the columns in the Alhambra af Granada, and had formerly been gilt, as the remains of the gilding are flill to be feen on many of them * : in various places the pavement has been fo much raifed as to cover the bafes, fo that the columns appear to grow out of the foil, much in the manner of thofe of the Doge's palace in Venice. Some of thofe in this church are plain, others are fluted, with one third of the fluting filled up, and others are fluted fpirally. Some defcrip* tions reckon twenty-nine naves, others nineteen, but the whole is fuch a fcene of confufion, as renders it very difficult to be de- fcribed fo as to give any tolerable idea of this church. In an. Italian eflcty on architedure, printed at Rome in 1768, is a fhort defcription of it, at the end of which the author fays, " The " Chriflians, in order to build a chapel in the middle of the " church, have taken away a great number of thofe pillars^ *'^ which has partly fpoiled the Angular beauty of that fo- " reft of columns." This author fays it was a temple of Janus before the time of the Moors ; which is very probable, by reafon of fome of the columns having Corinthian capitals. The fquare before this church is very beautiful, being planted with eighty large orange-trees : in the midft is a pond, full of tench, and on each fide is a fountain which continually plays ; , thefe are environed with cyprefs and palm-trees, * In the plate of the Alhambra, the laft column reprefents one of thofe which are in this church. Cordova . SPAIN. 253 Cordova is the greatefl: market for horfes in all Spain ; it is Here that the fo juftly celebrated and beautiful Andalufian horfes are to be feen, which it is death to export : they are all long- tailed and entire, very few geldings being found in Spain. Mares are only kept for breeding, and for treading out the. corn: thefe are allowed to be exported. One would imagin&- Adonis's horfe to have been an Andalufian one, from Shake«- fpeare's defcription, Round-hooft, fhort-jointed, fetlocks fhag and long-. Broad breaft, full eyes, fmall head, and noftril wide. High creft, fhort ears, ftrait legs, and paffing flrong, Thin mane, thick tail, broad buttock, tender hide. They are fed with wheat-ftraw, which is preferable to hay, by reafon of its juicy delicacy : fometimes barley is given to them. The mules and horfes I made ufe of in travelling, were never during the journey fufFered to lie down in the flable, but were tied with their heads clofe to the manger, fo that they could fleep only Handing : the bells which are tied about their heads and necks are never taken off ; they make an exceeding dif- agreeable noife, but I never could prevail on any of the drivers to quit them; they are, however, ufeful in apprifmg chaifes mu- tually of each other's approach in narrow roads, where there is not always room for two carriages to pafs. This city is the mofi: agreeable of any in Spain for a place of refidence : here are about thirty noble families, who alternately fpend • ^ f 54 TRAVELSTHROUGH fpend the evenings at each other's houfes. The night after my arrival I was at El Conde de Gabia's tertuiia, where I had the pleafiire of becoming at once acquainted with all thefe families:: they live with great fplendor ; I never fiiw fuch magnificent equipages in any other part of Spain : here are fourteen or fifteen coaches, chariots, or phaetons, which were lately made in London, and as many more which were procured from Paris. I had an opportunity of feeing all thefe drawn by four and fix beautiful long-tailed prancing ftone-horfes, as it was at that time Whitfuntide fair ; the footmen were all in gold and filver laced liveries. One of the four evenings I remained in Cordova was fpent at the houfe of the Marchionefs de Villafeca : we were firft entertained w^ith a concert, and afterwards with a ball ; the Englifh country-dances confided of near thirty couple : the re- frefhments were firft chocolate, and afterwards lemonade, ice- creams, cakes, and various forts of wines and liqueurs. The faloon we danced in is very large, hung with crimfon damafk, and enriched with feveral of the St. Ildefonfo looking-glaiTes ; the ceiling is of white ftucco, with gilt foliages : the whole of thefe elegant decorations are executed in the French tafle. There was much more freedom among the company than I ever ob- ferved at any aflembly in England, and none of that obftinate •fliynefs and r-eferve, which are fo difagreeably peculiar to the Englilli nation in genera!. We parted between two and three in .the morning, and the next evening the Conde de Gabia gave a like entertainment at his houfe, to the fame company, which was irepealcd on the evening following at another nobleman's houfe. I obfervcd SPAIN. 255 Tobferved that a great part of the furniture of thefe houfes was Engliih, fuch as mahogany chairs and tables, Wilton car- pets, &c. I faw likewife thr-ee Englifh hunters, which are the property of a nobleman here. On the fecond of June I left this city, charmed with the po- litenefs and fociablenefs of the gentry who inhabit it, and re-- turned to Ecija, on the fame road I came. I obferved feveral fields where cotton was growing : this plant is fown in March and April, and had juft begun to ap- pear above ground ; it grows to about a yard in height, its flowers- are yellow, with fmall red fpots ; from the midft of thefe ifTue balls like cheftnuts, and of the fize of a common nut; they burft in a triangle in September, and fhow their feed wrapt up - in the cotton. Fifty pounds weight of the feed produces no- more than eight pounds of cotton. I here difcharged my fervant Baptifte, giving him ten pounds to defray his expences on his return to Lifbon, and the next day r continued my journey towards Malaga. We dined at a venta, , and paffed the night in the village of Cazeriche, neftling among the ftraw, after having travelled fix leagues among olive-trees and corn-fields, through a violent rain which lafted the whole, day, accompanied with thunder and lightning. June . 255 TRAVELS THROUGH Time 4. PafTing over a woody heath, we re-entered the kingdom of Granada, and met two large wolves, which ran away as foon as they faw the chaife ; thefe were the only wolves we found in Spain, as thefe animals are feldom feen by day : fliortly after the chaife overfet when I was in it, the axle-tree w^s broken, which prevented our proceeding, fo that I left the chaife on the road to the care of my fervant, the caleffeiro went to an adjacent village to procure wherewith to repair the damage, and I rode on horfeback alone to Antequera, which was two leagues off. This city is fituated on an eminence, and poflefles the ruins of a IMoorifh caftle : it contains four parifh churches, eleven convents of monks, eight of nuns, and feveral hofpitals. I have a concife Spanifli account of this city, which fays, that it is dominated by Mercury and Mars, from whofe influences it participates in love of letters and of arms ; how juftly I cannot pretend to fay. Its diftridl produces wheat, barley, Tye, beans, kidney-beans, vetches, garbanzos (which are a kind of peafe), lentils, oil, and wine ; pears, apples, pomegranates, quinces, melons, water-melons, nuts, plums, cherries, apricots, figs, brebas (which are early figs, for they come twice a year in Spain) ; the vegetables are, fallads, coleworts, pepper, of that kind known in England by the name of red or Guinea pepper, garlick, parfnips, purflain, berengenas (which are a kind of pumpion), gourds, turnips, radiflies, endive, cucumbers, and iomates ; thefe laft are a fort of apple of a fcarlet coJour, and of a very tart flavour ; they grow likewife in the fouthern parts of Italy SPAIN. 257 Italy and France, where they are called marignani and pommes d'' amour * ; but no oranges or lemons are produced here, as the climate is too cold in winter. The inn is kept by a Frenchman, and is a pretty good one. The chaife arrived the next day at noon : I fet out imme- diately, and travelling five leagues over high, barren, and craggy mountains, arrived at a venta, where I remained all night. June 6. We dined at another venta "f", and in the evening arrived at Malaga, having travelled feven leagues this day, and crofled a fmall and fhallow river at leaft a dozen times : the road is good, and is bordered with very large aloes, Indian figs, and pomegranate hedges, intermixed with fhrubs, fuch as rofemary, {age, gerafu'um, thyme, &c. In the morning we pafled near the town of Arola, adjacent to which is a ruined Moorifh caftle on a hill, and in the evening we went by an aquedudl, which had formerly confifled of fifty-five low arches, but the laft eleven are broken. I this day obferved a very great number of the beau- tiful birds, which the Spaniards call ave/ucos ; they are found in no other part of Europe, excepting in Granada and Andalufia, but * Lycoperflcon. Solanum, Wolves-peach. •}■ Over the door of this venta is infcribed, Vamos entrando Vamos bebiendo Vamos pagando Vamos faliendo. L 1 are 258 TRAVELS THROUGH arc to be met with In the Eafl; Indies, where they are called bee- eaters. In the fecond volume of Brookes's Natural Hiftory is the following account of thefe birds : " The bee-eater is of the •' fize of a black-bird, and has a black bill, thick at the bafe, " bending downwards, and near two inches long ; the eyes are " of a fine red, and there is a black ftreak on each fide of the " head, which begins at the corner of the mouth, and runs be- " yond the eyes : the bafe of the upper chap, and under the *' chin, are covered with bright pale blue feathers ; the chin is *' yellow, but the upper part of the back of the head is of a " dufky yellow, as well as the back and wings, only thefe laft " are fhaded pretty ftrongly with green, the tips of the quilU *' feathers are brown, the brcafl: and belly green, and the under " part near the vent of a pale yellow mixed with green ; the " outer moft feathers of the tail are variegated with green and " yellow, and the two middlemoft feathers arc half an inch " longer than the reft, and terminate in fharpifli points of a " brown colour ; the legs are black, and extremely fhort, the *' feet have three claws forwards, and one backwards; the- " tongue is flender, and rough towards the end, where it is " jagged." To this defer iption I add, that I engaged a peafant to get one of thefe birds alive for me, as fhooting them would have fpoil- ed the plumage, accordingly he brought me a cock, hen, neft, and eggs ; I could not diftingulfh the cock from the hen, as their colours, fliapes, and fizes were exaftly alike j that which I fup- pofed SPAIN. 25^ pofed to be the hen, was, at the time the neft was taken, fitting on her eggs, which were fix in number ; her eyes were quite clof- ed, fhe feemed in a ftupefied, and ahnoft lifelefs ftate, and I was informed that fhe fits on her eggs without intermiffion till they are hatched, being, during the time of incubation, fed by the cock : the eggs are of the fize of thofe of a black-bird, and are totally white: thefe birds build their nefls in holes in the banks of rivers ; the holes are horizontal, and penetrate a yard or more into the earth. They feed on bees, wafps, and the like infedls : they fly in flocks of twelve or fourteen, and make a whiftling kind of noife ; w^hen flying they balance themfelves with their wings extended and almoft motionlefs ; at fuch times, when the fun fliines, their plumage is very brilliant. An officer at Gibraltar was afterwards fo kind as to prefent me with one of thefe birds fl:uff"ed, which I yet preferve. The Mufeum belong- ing to the Royal Society in London, likewife poflelTes one of them*. But to return to Malaga, I firft paid my refpeds to John Marfh, efq. his majefty's conful, and then having delivered my introdudtory letters, took a view of the city, which is fituated at the foot of a high mountain, and was built by the Phenicians, eight hundred years before the vulgar ara : it is well fortified. The port is rendered fafe and commodious by a mole near half * In the fccond volume of Albin's Hiftory of Birds, is a coloured print of this bird. Merops Apiafter. Linn. Syft. Nat 182. LI 2 a mile 2tQ TRAVELS THROUGH a mile in length. The cathedral is a modern building, of white > ftone, and one of the handfomeft and neateft in Spain. There are twelve or fourteen Englifh merchants eftablifhed here with their families ; they trade chiefly in wine and fait. The only good pidlure in this city is in the pofleflion of Timothy Power, efq. it reprefents the Virgin Mary and Child, St. John and St. Anne, whole lengths, and the figures are fomewhat lefs than the life. I efteem it to be one of Raphael's beft paintings. I had the honour of dining at the houfe of the marquis del Bado : the guefts were all ferved in plate, and feveral pages were in wait- ing with fly-flaps, to prevent thofe troublefome infedts from fet- tling on the difties. Mr. Power was fo obliging as to give me an invitation to fpend a few days at his country-houfe ; accord- ingly his beautiful lady, and another Jenora^ mounted their burros^ or jack afles, attended by Mr. Power, the conful, two other gentlemen, and myfelf, on horfeback, and rode four leagues to the village of Alhaurin, on a road over mountains impaflable for carriages, through a very fertile country, beautified with the/ moft romantic profpeds, and with hedges of aloes, holly, and briar. His houfe is furniflied in the Englifli tafte, and his gar- den produces goofeberries, blackberries, currants, &c. from plants procured from England; and thefe were the only plants of the kind I met with in Spain. We remained here four days, and were entertained with great hofpitality and politenefs, which rendered thofe days fome of the moft agreeable I had paffed in that kingdom. Before we returned to Malaga, we made a little; cxcurfion to Cartama, which is about a league and a half diftant frooi; SPAIN. 261 from Alhaurin : it is a fmall village, where, in the year 1750, a temple was difcovered about thirty feet under ground, with the remains of a ftair-cafe : a marble hand, which reprefents a left hand, two feet and a half long, holding a kind of trumpet,, eighteen inches long ; the veins on the back of the hand, and the creafes of the knuckles, are accurately expreffed; the whole weighs about fifty pounds : ten very large white marble flatues,. though without heads or arms; eleven infcriptions on marble; a few medals; and a column of a fingle piece of reddifli marble, twenty-four feet in height, and fix in diameter. The hand was fent to Madrid, where it is now in the king's palace : the rem- nants of the ftatues were ftuck in the ground at the corners of the ftreets, where they yet ferve as pofts to keep carriages from, the houfes ; the column was eredled on a pedeftal before a church, and a crofs placed on it; and, in 1756, the excavation was or- dered to be difcontinued, and the entrance clofed. The temple was a fquare of about forty yards, and contains two other co- lumns fimilar to that above mentioned ; thefe were fufFered to- remain where they lay. On a very high hill, near this village,, are the ruins of a ISIoorifh caftle. I procured a plan of the temple, and a copy of the eleven infcriptions : they are now in the poffelTion of the Society of Antiquaries in London.. On my return to Malaga^ I difcharged the chaife which had brought me from Madrid, as I could have no farther ufe for it, becaufe the roads from Malaga to Gibraltar, whither I intended' to go, are impradicable for wheel carriages, fo that there are no- Qthec 262 TRAVELS THROUGH other means of going to Gibraltar but by fea, or on horfeback. I a^-rceJ with a Spanifli officer, who fubfifts by letting out horfes, that he iliould furnifli me with two horfes, one for my fervant, and one to carry the baggage, himfelf accompanying me on horfeback, in his uniform, armed with piftols and a fabre, and procure a man to lead the baggage-horfe on foot. We were to travel to Gibraltar by way of Ronda, in four days, and to reft one day between. I was to maintain him and his man. Accordingly I fet out on the 19th of June, at four in the morning, chufing to go by way of Ronda, becaufe I had a de- f re to fee that city, though this road is confiderably longer and worfe than that by Munda, on whofe plains Pompey was de- feated by Csefar, of which battle a copious account is given in the thirteenth volume of the Univerfal Hiftory, and copied in Mr. James's Hiftory of Gibraltar. The diftance from Malaga to Gibraltar, by the way I went, is twenty-three leagues, or about ninety two miles. We dined at the venta where I had before been, at four leagues from Malaga, and in five hours we tra- A-elled two leagues farther, which brought us to Cafabonela, a village fituated on the top of a mountain, and commanding a fine profpeiTr of the fea. The inn here confifted of a fingle room, which ferved us for a kitchen and bed-chamber, fo that our va- lorous Don Fernando and his man, with myfelf, my fervant, the hoft, hoftefs, three children, and fomc foot-travellers, all flept on the ftraw together, with our cloaths on, which was very conve- nient, for, in the morning, having fliaken off the ftraw, and put GD our hats, we were ready drefTed. S P A I N. 263 June 20. At four this moraing we remounted, and after riding, or rather walking our horfes during five hours and a half, in which time we had advanced only two leagues, we arrived fafe at the village of Burgo, having paffed over many fteep and dangerous precipices, the road fometimes being carried over the edges of mountains not a yard wide, where the leafl falfe ftep would have hurled us to inevitable deftrudlion : in thefe places I chofe to walk, driving my horfe before me, not daring to hold- the bridle, left, if the horfe fell, he fhould pull me after him, indeed the hearts appeared to be as fenfible of their danger as we were, carefully fele£ling places between the loofe ftones to pro- cure a firm. footing ; it was admirable to obferve how fure-foot- cd the baggage-horfe was, though loaded on each fide with a trunk of two hundred weight, and on the top of all a bafket with . provifvoHS, and kitchen utenfils. Thefe deferts are only inha- bited by vultures, eagles, wolves, and goats, which laft ani- mals clamber up the fteepeft places, and leap and run on the edges of rocks in an aftonifhing manner. At Burgo is a ruined Moorifh caftle. After our Jiejl a, we in feven hours proceeded three leagues farther to Ronda, travelling on the fame kind of road : the vallies between the mountains producing green oaks and alffie- cinas, or lote-trees, intermixed with cork-trees. The green oak refembles the common oak in its fize, wood, and acorns, but the leaves are different, being fomewhat like thofe of holly : they are firm and prickly ; the upper-fide of a deep green, the under- 264 T R A V E L S T H R O U G H undcr-fide whitifli, rather downy, and do not fall ofF in winter; the wood is very hard, and is ufed for making pivots, or axles to puUies : the acorns are almoft as fweet as cheftnuts. The cork-tree much refembles the green oak, and likewife produces acorns : its bark is thick, light, fpungy, of a grey colour, fplits of itfelf, and parts from the tree, if care be not taken to gather it, which is done by fplitting the trunk in its •whole length, in order to get the bark off the more eafily ; it is then fteeped in water to foften it, dried at a fire, and loaded with large ftenes to flatten it : this is the cork that is fent all over the world, and which is ufed for making of bottle-corks, buoys for fifliing-nets, &c. In thefe parts, as well as in many others in Spain, are found the trees which produce the kermes ; thefe trees are called in Spanifh cat-rafca, or cofcoja, the berry-bearing Hex. In the eighth volume of the Hiftory of Animated Nature, is the follow- ing account of the kermes : " it is produced in the excrefcence *' of the ilex., and appears at firfl wrapt up in a membranaceous *' bladder of the fizeof a pea, fmoothand fhining, ofabrownifh " red colour, and covered with a very fine afh-coloured powder : *' this bag teems with a number of reddifh eggs, or infedts, " which being rubbed with the fingers pour out a crimibn li- *' quor : it is only met with in warm countries in the months *' of May and June. In the month of April this infedl becomes *•* of the fize and fhape of a pea, and its eggs fome time after ♦' burft SPAIN. 1165 *' burft from the womb, and foon turning worms, run about *' the branches and leaves of the tree : thefe are the fe- " males, but the males are very diflind from them, and " are a fet of fmall flies like gnats, with fix feet, of which *' the four forward are fhort, and the two backward long, " divided into four joints, and armed with three crooked nails ; " there are two feelers on the head, a line and a half long, which *' are moveable, ftreaked, and articulated : the tail at the back *' part of the body is half a line long, and forked ; the whole *' body is covered with two tranfparent wings, and they leap " about in the manner of fleas." They are gathered before fun-rife, by women who purpofely let their nails grow long to pick them off the leaves. Languedoc and Provence likewife produce thefe trees and infeds. They are ufed in dying and in medicine *. June 21ft. I remained all this day at Ronda -f- : this city is built on the edge of a mountain, which on one fide is as fteep as a wall, and faid to be upwards of nine hundred feet in height, and without any parapet or rail : I did not venture to look ■down, but defcended the mountain on the other fide to obferve this Angular precipice from below. The eagles " that wing the midway air. Shew fcarce fo grofs as beetles." * Coccus Ilicis, Linn. Syft. Nat. 740. t A viev/ of this town is inferted in one of the plates in this work, M The 266 TRAVELS THROUGH The body of a woman who fell from it, burft by the concuflToni of the air before it reached the ground, fo that her bowels came out. The city is fmall, but has the honour of being the feat of a Maejlranzd^ as was before mentioned. All the inns here are kept by gypfies. A new bridge, which joins the old to the new town, which is called el Mercadillo, was at that time nearly finifhed : it is built over a chafni formed by the mountain, and is to confift of three arches one above the other : befidcs this, there is another bridge of a fingle arch over a different part of this tremendous gap, at the bottom of which runs a fmall river. In the afternoon I rode on horfeback about a league off, with a Spanifh gentleman to fee his gardens, v/hich were only remark* able for the goodnefs of the fruit they produced, efpeclally of the cherries, which were fome of the fineft I ever tailed. June 22. We fet out foon after three this morning, in the. dark, and after fitting near eleven hours on horfeback, we ar- rived at Alguzin, without having in the fpace of five leagues feen a fingle houfe. After fun-rife the weather was fo hot, that It was with the utmoft difficulty I could keep myfelf awake on my horfe : 1 rode with an umbrella, and placed a fheet of white paper between my hat and head, which fomewhat proteded me from the Intenfe heat of the fun's rays, which fell almoft per- pendicularly. Walking was too violent an exercife at fuch a fea-- fon, and our horfes only went a foot-pace, in order to keep with the baggage horfe. A league beyond Ronda is a broken aque- dud, of which thirty- feven arches are yet entire. During the four- SPAIN. 267 ibur firft hours of this day's journey, the road was very beauti- fully diverfified, having the little river of Ronda to the right, and on both fides high mountains covered with vines, olive and cork trees, and green-oaks. At two leagues from Ronda I obferved a torrent pouring into the river, from a large c-avern in the fide of an oppofite mountain. After dining, or fup- ping, as this meal ferved for both, on an olla podrida of fait bacalldo, which is like the fifli called poor-jack, fried in oil, with peafe, garhck, and red pepper, I turned into my ftraw neft at eight in the evening, and flept comfortably till two the next morning. June 23. I was on horfeback the moment after I awaked, for I had not undrefled myfelf, and my horfe had pafled the night in the fame apartment with me. After travelling fix leagues we arrived at San Roque, having defcended a mountain, which we did foon after leaving Alguzin ; the road is tolerably level and good. I this day alfo rode eleven hours without flopping : as the road admitted it, I amufed myfelf in galloping about a mile before, then difmounted, and lay in the Ihade of fome tree or other till the baggage came up. I fliot a butcher-bird, of which I faw great numbers, which I alfo did of a kind of black martins, which meafured near twenty inches with their wings extended : thefe birds fly like fwallows in flocks, and at a great height. It was one in the afternoon when we arrived at San Roque. I immediately went to fleep for two hours, and after- wards waited on the governor to obtain leave to pafs the Spanifli ]VI 2 lines : 268 TRAVELS THROUGH lines. But he would on no account -permit my horfe to pafs- them, unlefs I confented to have it returned to San Roque the fame evening, fearing that I might export it from Gibraltar, which is ftridlly prohibited. ; accordingly, I was obliged to con- form, and agreed with the landlord of the inn, who is an Ita^ lian, that he fhould keep my horfe in his ftable till my return. We then fet out and proceeded to Gibraltar, which is only one league from San Roque, but we were two hours in performing- it, as the road is a deep and heavy fand. The country is quite barren. We then pafled the Spanifh lines, and fhortly after the Englifh lines ; entered the town, and put up at a very bad inn, where the beds were full of bugs, which were the firft I had yet felt in Spain. The nest day I changed my inn, and went to the King's arms, which is a very good one, and contains the aflembly-room. All the inns here are kept by Britilh fubjefts. I waited on the governor. General Boyd, and had the honour of dining at his excellency's houfe, in com- pany with admiral Sir Peter Dennis, whofe (hip was then in the bay. The town of Gibraltar, which has been in pofleffion of the Englifh fince the year 1706, is fituated at the foot of the weft fide of a mountain, or rock, called Calpe by the ancients, which ftands by itfelf, in 36° 8' latitude. The length of this mountain is about two miles and three quarters from the north end, which rifing abruptly out of the fmall ifthmus, joins it to the continent : the moft fouthern part is called Europa Point. Its. S P A T N. 269 Rs perpendicular height above the level of the fea is one thoM- fand three hundred and fixty feet, but Colonel James fays one thoufand four hundred and three. The eaftern fide is almoft inac- eeflible, though feveral officers affured me they had clambered up to the fummit by that fide. Many apes and monkles inha- bit its caverns and precipices, and are frequently fhot : it Is thought that thefe animals are not produced in any other part of Europe. The birds called folitary fparrows are alfo found here^ In the firft volume of Edwards's Natural Hiftory of Birds, is x~ coloured figure of the folitary fparrow. The fourth volume of that work is dedicated to GOD; and at the end of that ex- traordinary dedication is as extraordinary a preface. The book was printed at London fo lately as the year 175 I.- Mr. Edwards has furpaffed In this refpeft any author I know of. A Spanlfh book, entitled. Sayings a?id Deeds of King Don Philip n. printed In Madrid in 1748, ia dedicated to " the " moft facred Emprefs of Heaven and Earth, Mary, Mother of " God, Lady of the Univerfe, and Queen of the Angels." And the Italian book, entitled, Embriologia Sacra, by F. E.- Cangiamlla, of Palermo, Dodlor of Divinity and of Laws, is dedi- cated to all the Guardian Angels. This book (quarto, Milan 1751, three hundred and twenty pages), treats about the duty of priefts and phyficians, who are to fecure the eternal falvatlon of children £hut up In the womb, by baptlfing them by means of a fpunge, 270 TRAVELS THROUGH a fpunge, or a fyringe, as is defcribed in the firft volume ef Triftram Shandy. A large copper-plate decorates this ingenious work, in which is reprefented a foetus of fourteen different fizes, from the age of it\&x\ days to that of four months and a half; and the motto is from Matth. xviii. V. 10. " Take heed that ye defpife not one of thefe little " ones." In blowing up the rock in various places, many pieces of tones, teeth, &c. are daily found, incorporated with the ftone ; fome of thefe pieces have been fent to England and depofited in the Britifh Mufeum, &c. and in the Philofophical Tranfadlions for 1770, is a circumftantial account of them. In the weft fide of this mountain is the cave called St. Michael's, eleven hundred and ten feet above the horizon, I entered it by the light of feveral torches, about two hundred paces : there are many pillars of various fizes, from the thicknefs of a goofe-quill to two feet in diameter, formed by the droppings of water, which have petrified in falling ; the water perpetually drips from the roof, and forms an infinite number oi Jlala5iitce of a whitifh colour, compofed of feveral coats or crufts, and which, as well as the pillars, continually increafe in bulk, and will probably, in procefs of time fill the whole cavern. At the end of this cave is a hole of about fix feet in diameter, of which the ^epth is uncertain, and I had no inclination to explore it ; bats .abound here. One evening I afcended to the fummit of the rock SPAIN. 271 Kock in an hour, by the path called the Devil's-Gap, on a flight of two hundred ftone fteps, and then after having walked fome time, went up four hundred more, which brought me to the fignal-houfe built on the higheft part of the mountain. The weather was very clear, fo that I enjoyed the profped: of the town, the bay, the ftraits, Mount Abila, or Ape's-hill, on the African fhore, the city of Ceuta, and great part of the Barbary coaft; the towns of St. Roque and Algeziras, and the fnowy Alpuxarra mountains. At night an infinitely greater number of ftarsy " The life-infufing funs of other worlds," may be difcovered from hence by the naked eye than from be- low, becaufe in this elevated fituation the atmofphere is much more pure and thin. I defcended another way, paihng by the remains of the Moorifli caftle. I was informed that there were at that time feven regiments In Gibraltar, and that about fix hundred men were always on guard at a time : the difcipline obferved here is very ftri£l, and the officers always appear in their regimentals. There are three hundred and forty guns mounted on the fortifications, and there is room for a hundred more : thofe of the grand , battery are of bronze, the reft of iron : they are all fired in fucceffion on the anniverfary of his majefty's birth ; the performance takes half an hour. At fun- rife, fun-fet, and at nine in the evening, a gun is daily fired. The. S72 TRAVELS THROUGH The town confifts chiefly of one ftreet, which is tolerably broad and well paved ; the other ftreets are crooked, narrow, and dirty : it contains an Englifh church, a Roman-Cathohc one for the Spaniards and Portuguefe, who inhabit this town to the number of about three hundred, and are moftly fhop- keepers, and for about feven hundred Genoefe, chiefly mari- ners ; and a fynagogue for the Jews, who amount nearly to the number of fix hundred : I conjecture that of the Englifh to be about two thoufand, exclufive of the military : befides thefe, there are a few hundred Moors who continually pafs and repafs to and from the Barbary coaft, trafficking in cattle, fowls, fifli, fruits, and other provifions, as nothing is to be had from Spain, which neither Jews nor Moors are ever fuff^ered to enter. The town has three gates ; out of one of them I obferved fome of- ficers playing at golf on the fands, in the fame manner as I had feen that game played on the Links, (a heath near Edinburgh,) Leith, &c. There is a fmall theatre, where I had the pleafure of feeing High Life Beloio Stairs, and Mifs in her Teens extremely well performed : the adors were military gentlemen, who entertain themfelves weekly in this manner : the adrefles are fo by pro- feflion. All European coins are current here, but confiderably under the value ; a guinea pafles for no more than nineteen fhillings and iix pence ; five Spanifh reals are only three here ; a pefo duro, which SPAIN. 273 which is here called a cob-t is a dollar and a half of Gibraltar currency. No perfon is allowed to go out of the Englifh territory, either by land or fea, without a pafs from the governor, who grants the inhabitants one annually. No veflels, nor even boats, coming from Gibraltar are fuffered to land their people in any of the Spanifh ports, till after they have performed a quarantine of three or four days. Here are taverns, cofFee-houfes, billiard- tables, fhops, &c. as in England. The governor's garden is open to the public, and is much reforted to on Sunday evenings. Since my return to England I obtained permiffion from the Board of Ordnance to fee the model of Gibraltar, which is kept in the Tower ; it is five feet in length, and is extremely accu- rate in regard to the dimenfions of the rock, though many new fortifications have been added to Gibraltar fince this model was made, which was thirty years ago. I had a great inclination to make an excurfion to Fez ; accord- ingly I procured the neceffary pafles and letters, and agreed with the mafter of a fmall veffel that he fhould come to fetch me at Ceuta, from whence I intended to be landed on the fhore of the river of Tetuan. I bought feveral pounds of green-tea, loaves of fugar, and filk handkerchiefs, to prefent to the Moorifli governors, and hired a Moor who fpoke Engliih and Spanifh extremely well, to accompany me. I fet out on the N n 5th 274 TRAVELS THROUGH 5th of July, on a mule, and after riding four leagues along the fhore, arrived at the village of Algeciras, which the Englifh fallors call Old Gib. I here procured a bill of health, and the next morning, at four, embarked in the Spanifh packet, which fails twice a week from hence to Ceuta, and croffing the Straits- in feven hours, we landed at that city : the dlftance is about feven leagues. I immediately waited on the governor, who was fo obliging as to order an officer to accompany me about the town, and In the evening I faw the Italian opera of la Buona Figluola, adted by a company of ftrolling players. Probably if I had travelled from Ceuta to Grand-Cairo, or to the Cape of Good-Hope, by land, I fhould not have feen another opera. This city belongs to the Spaniards ; it is fituated on the north fide of a peninfula, of about three miles in length, and has no communi- cation with the Barbary dominions, fo that it can only be entered from the fea. The garrifon confifls of four regiments, orabouti three thoufand men ; and two hundred very fine and large bronze guns are planted on the fortifications. It is the place of exile as well for ftate criminals as for malefadors : thefe laft are chain- ed by the leg, and made to work. I obferved a man with a fmall brafs ladder faftened to the loop of his hat, in the manner of a cockade ; I was informed he was the executioner. Thefe men are not allowed to wear a cloak in any part of Spain. The only inn in this place, which is kept by an Italian, is infufferably bad j however, I only ftaid there one night, as the next day at noon^ the veflel which I had hired at Gibraltar being arrived, I imme- diately embarked, and at feven in the evening we anchored vx the. SPAIN. 275 the bay of Tetuan, which is feven leagues from Ceuta : the furf was fo high that I could not land, and the wind became fo violent, that at four the next morning we were obliged to weigh anchor and return to Gibraltar, where we landed at eleven, having in that time failed thirteen leagues. In the evening of the fame day the wind abated, fo that I re-embarked at eight on board the fame veflel, and at ten the next morning we landed on the Tetuan fhore. We caught two large dog-fi(h, and gathered a great quantity of mufcles from off the rocks. I walked to the cuftom-houfe, or marteen, which is about two miles inland. A fmall village is built near it, and at that time a fair was held for mules, cattle, fheep, and fruit. Here I faw -a great number of florks. Near this place is a fmall fquare fort with four guns ; there is no other entrance but at the window, by means of a rope-ladder, which is afterwards drawn 1 ^ I Cavayal -- - — o , J c A venta - -^ beventhdayj ^, ■, •' (-Almeida « -. -. From Oporto to Salamanca.. Enter Spain. 4 2 5' 4t 8 7i 4 5 8 3 6 4 I 7f 3 2 2. 5> 3f 3 4 5 6 38 65; Firft day Obifpo - - - it 2. Second day Ciudad-Rodrige - « ^ 6 '- "6f It" APPENDIX; 341. Brought over A ventaj A venta Salamanca- Fourth day | Leagues, 6i- or Hours. 8i - 9 II 4^ 22i: 7t 26i. From Salamanca to Valladolid. :A venta Fifth day { Valladolid From Valladolid to Madrid through Segovia, St. Ildefonfo, and the Efcorial. T>- n J cValdeftillas - - Second day ^g°^'|^^j^^^. J -"* - ' -" Third day Segovia - -. - Fourth day St. Ildefonfo ~ - - Fifth day A venta - - - _. , , cGuadarama Sixth day } r^,,, Efcorial Seventh day Madrid. - ^ - 6i Second day Zamora - - - - 6 6 Third day 'Toro - - - 6 8 { Fourth day Tordefllas — _ - 6 7 r Simancas " ~ ~ 3 4 2 4 ?o 36 l8 9i .7 81- 5 r 2 2i 3- 5 8f 6f 9 37i 5O' 342 APPENDIX. From Madrid to Aranjuez by way of Toledo. Firftday l^^fl' ' i Cabanas Second day Toledo Third day Aranjuez From Aranjuez to Valencia. o J J i Quintanar - - - Second day j ^^^^^^^^ - - - Third day {^f^^'^^^^"- ■' iMinaya - - - ^ .J rLaRoda _ _ _ Fourth day {La Gineta -r-ru J rAlbacete - - - Fifth day |^.jj^^ Sixth day \^i„^^^j^ . . c *i,j cMoxent _ - - Seventh day { ^^^ .^^^ ^^ ^^^ p^^^^^ T-. , , , c Algemesi _ _ - E^S^^^^^y {Valencia - - • 6if 80 From Valencia to Morviedro and back again is 8 leagues. From Leagues, 3^ or Houi"s. 9v 3 3 7 8i ^9 21 2 5T 3 8 3 5 5 6 3 4 4 6 3 3 3 37 3 5 3i 6 3 3 4 5 5 6r 4 5T 4 5 5 7 APPENDIX. 343 Bronx Valencia to Carthagena, by way oi Alicante and Murda. League), orHourt, ■c" aA ,r ^ Cullera . ^ - s y Firftday Icandia - - - - 3 5^ _ J, fLa Puebla - - - - 3 ^i Second day {q^^^^j^^^^ - - - 3 -ft rr-u- J J 5 A venta - - - 3 5 Third day J ^jlj^^^ > - - - 3 4f. , , cMonforte - - - - 5 ^ Fourth day ^ ^^^^^^^ - - - - 4 5t T^-ri- J cElche _ « _ 4 4I. Fifth day iorihuela - . . 5 7 Sixth day Murcm - - - 4 5^ o .i,j r A venta - - - S 7 . Seventhday}^^^^^^^^^^ - ' " Jl _!: S' 75 From Carthagena to Granada. _,. - , I Puente Alamo - - 4 5t Eirftday {^^^^^^ . . .57- _ J J \Lorca _ - - - - 4 5- Second day I j^^^^^^^^g - - - - 3 4 „. . , , f Velez el Rubio - -57 Third day {(.j^j^.^^l - - - 3. 4 ^ , , rCuUar - - - 4 7- Fourth day {^^^^ - - - 4 6' •n-ri. J jxA venta - - - 4 6| Fifth day }(.^^^^^:^ ^ . " _i Ji 39 5^1 344 APPENDIX. Leagues, or Hours. "Brought over - - 39 56I- „. , J cA venta - ^ ^ 3 ? Smhday {jf^^u^^ - . . I ^. Sevc«hday}^--^„, -. -. : }s^ 2 From Granada to Cordova. Second day {^J^"J^^ "- I - I 4 7 Third day {^^r"*^"-^ - . - - 4 7 -, , , jLaCarlota - - - ^ ? Fourth day JcoKoov A - - - } 7 ^ .31 5* From Cordova to Malaga. Firft day To Ecija . - - - 8 la Second day {^j;^^^^^^ '. '- -" 3^} 9^ Third day Antequera - - - 6 9 Fourth day A verrta ~ - - 5 8 ^■ft"^y IX^ - - ^ 1 J From Malaga to Cartama and back is 6 Leagues. From APPENDIX. 345 From Malaga to Gibraltar by way of Rotida. Leagues, orMoun. Firft day Jr^Jo^i* " " ^ 5i- •' t Uala Rabonela « - . 2 r Second day \ r, ^? ~ " " ^ 5i ■' ^ Konda - - - ^ ^ Third day Alguzin - - , e ^qL Fourth day \ ^^\ ^°^"^ '' L Kjibr altar - - Prom Gibraltar to Cadiz. Firft day jSan Roque ■' tJLos Barrios r, ,1 ^ A venta Second day ]y^.^^ rr-i.- J J i Chiclana Th.rd day J ^^ ^^^ ^^ ^^^^ Fourth day Cadiz From Cadiz to Sevilla. Crofs the bay to Port St. Mary Firft day Xerez - — Second day •) ^r ~ • •' I Venta Third day Sevilla 6 II I 2 23 46 1 I 2 2 3 5 3 71- 4f 3 2 61. 3 2 2i- 18 29 I 2 3 5 6 f 4 4 20 i9i: From 346 A P P E N D I X; From Se VILLA to San Lucar, on the river Guadiilquivir, 135 17 leagues, which I failed in 20 hours. From Sa7i Lucar to Port St. Mary, is 4 leagues, or 5 hours. . With refpedt to the fhort excurfions which I made, the dif- tances from the feveral towns are mentioned in the former part of this work. From Malaga to Vejel, by way of Gibraltar, the roads are impaflable in carriages. I have thought it neceflary to mention the number of hours I employed in travelling from place to place, becaufe the leagues being generally only computed diftances, convey no determined- idea of the fpace from one place to another. The ufual rate of travelling is from three and a half to five Englifh miles per hour, according as the roads are mountainous or level. The total number of leagues which I travelled from Lifbon till my arrival in Cadiz (exclufive of the voyages crofs the Straits of Gibraltar), is 578, in which I employed 800 hours, fo that thofe leagues ^ probably amount to about three thoufand Englifh miles *. • Mr. Clarke has inferted in his work the Itinerary from Bilbao to Ma-, drid, and from thence to Lifbon : and Mr. Baretti has publiflied an Itinerary . of the roads from Lifbon ta Madrid, and from thence to SaragofTa and Bar- . celona, &c. &g. S UMMARfY. A ^P P E N D I X. 347 N'' ir. SUMMARY of the History of PORTUGAL. A BOUT the year 714 of our sera, the Moors invaded ^ ^ Portugal, and continued in poffefTion of the greateft part of that kingdom till about the year 1072: during which pe- riod the other part of Portugal was governed by a fucceflion of twenty-five kings. In the year 1080, Count Don Henry made himfelf mafter of moft of the territories then in fubje£tion to the Moors, and reigned over the whole kingdom upwards of twen- ty years, without ever accepting the title of king; fo that the firft king was Don Alfonfo I. born 1109 ; died 1 185 ; reigned 57 years : he is buried in a convent in Coimbra. A Portuguefe account of this king fays, " That God operates feveral prodigies by means " of his body, as may be feen in the tenth feftion of the ylppu- *■* rato WJiorico^ which was printed in Rome in 1728, for the " beatification of that venerable king." Twenty-feven Elogies are inferted in that work. 2. His fon, Don Sancho T. born 1154; died 121 1; reigned 26 years ; buried in Coimbra. 3. His fon, Don Alfonfo II. born 1185; died 1223; reign- ed I 2 years ; buried in Alcoba-ca. 4. Don Sancho II. born 1202; died 124S. After hav- --i«^ reigned nineteen years, he oppreffcd feveral ecclefiaftics, Y y 2 who 348 APPENDIX. who complained to the pope (Innocent IV.) : the king received^ admonitions from Rome, to which he paid no attention ; fo that his holinefs dcpofed him in year the 1 242, placing his brother Don Alfonfo on the throne in his Head. Don Sancho was obliged to quit the kingdom, and take refuge in Toledo, where he died,, and is buried. 5. His brother, Don Alfonfo III. born 12 10; died 1279 ; rsigned 32 years ; interred in Alcobafa. 6. His fon, Don Denis; born 1261 ; died 1325; reigned 46 years ; buried in the convent of Odivelas. 7. His fon, Don Alfonfo IV. born 1291 ; died 1357; reign- ed 32 years; buried in Lifbon. This king caufed the beautiful Dona Ignez de Caflro to be barbaroufly murdered in 1355, be- caufe fhe had clandeflinely efpoufed his fon Don Pedro. One of the heft tragedies in the Portuguefe language is founded on this flory ; and a French author, named Lamotte, has imitated it *. 8. Don Peter 1. born 1320; died 1367; reigned 10 years; buried in Alcobafa, clofe by his fpoufe Dona Ignez. He was called the Cruel, becaufe, notwithflanding he had fworn to his father that he would forgive the murderers of Dona Ignez, yet he caufed two of them to be put to death, tearing out their hearts from their breafts, and afterwards burning them. He had the meannefs to ftrike one of- thefe wretches on the face vi'hilll he was under thefe tortures. The king then caufed the fkele- ton of Dona Ignez to be taken out of its fepulchre, to be in- verted with the royal habits, and the crown to be placed on its * There is a Spanifh tragedy on the fame fubject, written in 1577. hecdj APPENDIX. 34P head; he ordered the Portuguefe to acknowledge their queen in tiiofe infenfible remains. The hem of its garments was then kifled by the nobility ; and that novel and lingular ceremony was the caufe of its being faid, that Dona Igncz reigned after having lived, and that Ihe arofe out of the tomb to mount the throne. In the tragedy above mentioned, fhe likewife is placed on the throne after her death. 9. His fon, Don Ferdinand, born 1345; died 1383; reign-^ ed 17 years ; buried in Santarem. 10. His brother, Don John I. born 1357 ; died of the plague in 1433 : reigned 48 years; buried in Batalha. In 1415, the cityofCeuta, in Barbary, was conquered by the Portuguefe navy, which confifted of 220 fail (probably y2z//i), commanded by the king in perfon. In 1420, the Madeira iflands were difcovered by Gon9alvez Vaco and Triftas Vaz. 11. His third fon, Don Edward, born 1391; died of the plague in 1438 ; reigned 5 years ; buried in Batalha. 12. His fon, Don Alfonfo V. born 1432 ; died 148 1 ; reign- ed 43 years ; buried in Batalha. 13. His fon, Don John II. born 1455; died 1495; reign- ed 14 years; buried in Batalha. The Portuguefe account fays, *' that his body remains ftill uncorrupted ; which, according to " fome perfons is a fign of its being predeftinated." In 1492, he refufed the offers of Chriftopher Columbus, who in the fame year difcovered the new world for king Ferdinand and queen Ifabel of Spain. 14. Doa. 350 APPENDIX. 14. Don Emanuel, duke of Beja, and grandfon to king Edward, born 1469; died 1521; reigned 26 years; buried in Bellein. In i497> Vafquez de Gama was fent by this king to continue the difcoveries made in the Indies. He returned to Portugal after two years abfence, having landed atMozambique and Calicut, and puQied his navigation almofl as far as Goa. The following year the king, after having rewarded de Gama, fent a new fleet to the Indies, under the command of Peter Capral, who, after four-and-twenty days failing, landed in the Brafils, from whence he continued his route, and made an alliance with the kings of Cochin and of Cananor. In 1502, Don Emanuel went in per- fon in pilgrimage to Santiago de Compoftella, from a principle of devotion. 15. His fon, Don John Iir. born 1502; died 1557; reign- ed 35 years; buried in Bellem. The moft memorable adtion that I find recorded of this monarch is, that as he knew that Saint Thomas preached and died in the Eaft Indies, he ordered the viceroy to make enquiries concerning the place of his fepul- ture, and concerning the particulars of his life. The famous Don John de Caftro lived during this reign : his life, written in the Portuguefe language, by Jacinto Freyre de Andrada, is much efteemed. The inquifition was eftablifhed in Portugal about this time. In 1553, Alvarez Cabral returned to Goa, having on board the celebrated Don Lewis de Camoens, who, in his Liifiadast ■has fung the conquefls of the Portuguefe in the Indies. In APPENDIX. 351 In 1 53 I, aa earthquake deftroyed almoft the whole city of liifbon ; and, it is faid, that thirty thoufand inhabitants perifhed . among the ruins. 16. His grandfon, Don Sebaftian, born 1554; died fight- ing againft the Moors near Tangier in Africa, in 1578, having reigned ever fince the age of three years. For a fable about this prince, fee le Voyageur Francois, vol. xv. p. 259. 17. Don Henry, cardinal, fon to king Emanuel, and uncle to the late king, born 15 12; died 1580; reigned about a year and a half: he is interred at Bellem. The Portuguefe account of his death fays, *' he died in Almeirim. There was a great " lunar eclipfe the fame night, and an univerfal forrow, becaufe *' every body perceived that the whole kingdom was alfo eclipfed "by that death. In the )' ear 1682, his body was tranfported " from Almeirim to Bellem, and a noble monument ereded " over it by order of king Peter II. By this means his body was " feen entire after having been buried 102 years, fo that w^e " have reafon from thence to believe that it enjoys beatitude." In the fame year Don Philip II. of Caftile, took pofleflion by force of the kingdom of Portugal : he died and was buried in J598inthe Efcorial, which he had founded, having lived 71 years, of which he had reigned 43 in all in Spain, and 18 in: Portugal *. * In 1583, the celebrated Don Ferdinand de Toledo, duke of Alba, died in Lifbon. In 1588, the fleet known by the name of the Invincible Arma- da, was fent againft England : part of it periHied by tempefts, and part was taken by admiral Sir Francis Drake, fo that Spain loft by that expedition a hundred veffels, about one hundred and twenty-five thoufand men, and near two millions flerling. 552 APPENDIX. 10. His Ion, Don Philip III. fucceeded him (PhiHp II. of Por- tugal) ; he died in 162 1, after having reigned 22 years; he is buried in the ILfcorial. The tvvenrieth king of Portugal was Don Philip IV. (HI.) fon of the preceding monarch. His viceroy was maffacred in 1640, and Don John, eighth duke of Bragan9a, was proclaimed 2 I. King of Portugal, by the name of Don John IV. he was bora in 1604, and died in 1656, after a reign of almoft 16 years : "he is interred in the convent of S. Vincentede Fora, inLifbon*. Thus the Portuguefe fliook off the Spanifh yoke, which they liad borne for fixty years. 22. His fon, Alfonfo VI. born 1643; died 16S3; reigned II years; buried in Bellem. This king, who was of a very •weak underftanding, was depofed in 1667, and his brother, the Infante Don Pedro, placed on the throne in his ftead as regent. Alfonfo's queen accufed her hulband of impotence, upon "which flie was divorced, and her marriage declared to be null : fhe, without quitting the title of queen, married the regent (her brother-in-law) by means of a difpenfation from cardinal de Ven- dome, legate a latere in France, and the pope confirmed that dif- penfation by a brief. * The manner in which the count-dukc of Olivares announced to Phi- lip the IV. the lofs of Portugal, fhows how kings are flattered in their mif- fortiines, and how truths, which are unpleafing, are hidden from them. " I *' come, faid he, to acquaint you with a happy piece of news : your ma- " jefty has gained all the fortune of the duke of Braganca ; he has thought " proper to caufe hiaiL-If to be proclaimed king, and by his crime his eftatcs *' are confifcated to your majefly." la APPENDIX. 35g In 1668, a treaty of peace was concluded between Spain and Portugal : the court of Madrid acknowledged Portugal to be free and independent, and cut off from her coat of arms that of the crown of Portugal. Spain retained only Ceuta, v/hich city had not followed the revolution in 1640. Thus finiflied a bloody war, which had lafled twenty-fix years. After the death of Alfonfo VI. which happened in 1683, the *egent was proclaimed 23. King, by the title of Don Peter II. He was born in 1648, and died in 1706, after a reign of 38 years: he is buried in the convent of St. Vincente de Fora, in Lifbon. 24. He was fucceeded by his fon, Don John V. born 1 689 : he •died in 1750, after having reigned near 44 years, and was buri- ed near his father. He was regretted by his fubjeds, whom he had rendered happy by his wife and prudent government, and by his generous and patriotic virtues. In 1748, pope Benedi£l XIV. granted the title oifdeUJJimo (mod faithful) to him and to his fucceflbrs. 25. His prefent majefty, Don Jofeph fucceeded his father in 1750: he was born in 1714. In 1755, an earthquake nearly deftroyed Lifbon. In 1758, a blunderbufs was difcharged at his majefty as he was returning to his palace at Bellem by night, and the following year the delinquents were executed near the fpot. In 1762, the Spaniards and the French invaded Portugal, but peace was ftiortly after concluded between the three Z z kingdoms. 354 A P P E N D I X. kingdoms. His majefty, in J 729, efpoufed Dona Maria, prin-- cefs of Afturias, daughter to Philip V. of Spain *. The Portuguefe hiftory, from which moftofthefc particulars, ■were extraiSled, concludes thus, *' From the time that he has *' mounted the throne and handled the fceptre, he has fl:iewn» *' not only by the rnajefty of his perfon, and the clemency of " his genius> but by the generofity of his a£tions, that in hinx *' is re-produced into lively exiftence the magnanimous heart of ** his memorable fMher; and every Portuguefe heart will be a. *' fhield to the life and glory of our auguft monarch, who *♦ in military campaigns will terrtfy the the moft diftant climate8.^ *♦ of the univerfe with the echo of his valour." ! * An account of the prefent royal family is given in p. 11, of this work^. SUMMARY^ APPENDIX. 355 N° III. rsUMMARY of the History of SPAIN. TH E Phoenicians about 240 years before the vulgar seraj called the Carthaginians into Spain : thefe were conquer- ed by the Romans, who were in their turn vanquifhed by the ■Goths. Their firft king, Ataulfo, died by the year 42 r . To him fucceeded thirty-two other kings; and during the reign of the thirty-fourth king, Rodrigo, in 712, the Saracens and Moors, to the number of twenty-four thoufand, invaded An- dalusia, put the king to flight, and conquered Algeziras, Sevilla, Cordova, and many other cities. They afterwards made them- felves mafters of the greateft part of the kingdom, and pufhed their conquefls to the Gothic Gaul. In the year 718, great numbers of Chriftian Gotltf and Spaniards, who had taken refuge among the mountains of the Afturias and Bifcay, finding their enemies employed at fuch a diftance, chofe Pelayo for their chief: he gained feveral victories over the Moors, and in 737 died., after having reigned in the northern provinces of Spain •'■. He was fucceeded by his fon Favila, who was killed the following year by a bear when he was hunting. The 37th king was Alfonfo I. 'furnamed the Catholic, fon-in-law to Pelayo, During his reign * About tliis time a king of Navarre was alfo defied. ■Z z 2 A civil 356 APPENDIX. a civil war broke out among the Moors, which gave Alfonfbs an opportunity of retaking many provinces. He died in 757. He- was fucceeded by his eldeft. fon Don Fruela. In 761, he built the city of Oviedo, made it an epifcopal fee, and the capital of his dominions, from whence the ancient kings were ftyled kings- of Oviedo. He was the firft who introduced the title of Don irt thefe kingdoms. The Moor Abderamo conquered Saragofla^ and the provinces of Aragon and Catalonia. In 765, he enter- ed into an alliance with Pepin king of France, w^ith a view ta enfure the peaceable pofleflion of his dominions in Spain. About this time the Moorifh gallantry, arms, and arts flourifhed, and they rendered Granada and Cordova two of the mofl beautiful- cities in Europe : thus the Barbarians were become the civilized inhabitants of Spain, and the Spaniards were changed into Barba- rians. In 767, Don Fruela murdered his brother, and the follow- ing year was aflaffmated himfelf, and another of his brothers, named Don Aurelio, placed on the throne. He died in 774, and was fucceeded by Don Silo, who died 782.. The 41 ft king was named Mauregato : he died in 789. About this time Ab- deramo built the famous mofque in Cordova, and died fhortly after. The 42d king, Don Veremundo, or Bermudo I. abdi- «ated the throne, and died four years after. He was fucceeded; by Don Alfonfo II. furnamed the Chafte : the time when he- began his reign is very uncertain ; fome hiftorians place it in> 762, others in 791 : it is fuppofed that he died in B42, and his fon Don Ramiro I. fucceeded him. He gained a memorable vidlory over the Moors by the miraculous afliftance of the apoftle St. y APPENDIX. 357 Sr,, James, patron of Spain, who appeared at the head of his army, according to the Spanifh hiftorians, and from thence for- ward a part of all military fpoils have been allotted to the fhare of that faint and foldier *. Ramiro died in 850, and his foa DonOrdoiial. reigned in his ftead f,, till 865, when he died,, and was fucceeded by his fon Don Alfonfo III. He abdicated in 911, in favour of his fon Don Garcia, who reigned only three years. His brother, Don Ordono II. fucceeded him, and died in 923. His brother, Don Fruela II, was then placed on the throne, which he filled thirteen months, and died detefted by his fubjeds becaufe of his tyranny. Don Alfonfo IV. fon of Don Ordoiio II. was then proclaimed king of Leon and the Afturias. After reigning three years he abdicated in favour of his brother, Don Ramiro II. and turned monk in the monaftery ©f Sahagun : foon after which he repented, and attempted to re- gain the throne, but his brother caufed his eyes to be put out. Don Ramiro died in 950, after having declared his fon Don. OrdoHo III his fucceffor. He died in 955, and his fon Don Or- dono IV. reigned one year, at the expiration of which he was murdered by his uncle Don Sancho I. furnamed the Fat, who placed himfelf on the throne. He was poifoned in 967, and the crown was given to his fon Don Ramiro III. under the re- gency of his mother Dona Therefa, and Doiia Elvira, fifter to the late king, and a nun in a monaftery in Leon. A French. * Clave Hiftorial. p. 170. t The ftreets of the city of Cordova were paved by the Moors in 853. A. French, author fays, that thofe of Paris were not paved till 1183. author 358 APPENDIX. author makes the following refledlions upon this event. "■ This *' is perhaps the only example we find in hiftory of a turbulent *' and warlike people fufFering themfelves to be governed by a *' nun ; and of two women, who being jointly entrufted with " the government, had the common good in view in all their " adions, without divifion, without quarrels, without rivalfliip, *' and without jealoufy." About this time the firft king of Caftile reigned, fo that Spain was governed by four different kings, which were thofe of Leon and the Afturias, of Navarre, of Caftile, and the Moorifli king of Cordova. Don Ramiro died in 982, and was fucceeded by his fon Don Bermudo IJ. who died in 999. Don Alfonfo V. then reigned till the year 1027, when he was killed by an arrow at the fiege of Vifeu in Portugal. His fon, Don Bermudo III, then filled the throne. In 1037, Don Garcia IV. king of Na- varre, aided by his brother Ferdinand I. king of Caftile, gave battle to Don Bermudo, who was defeated and killed, and with him ended the male poftcrity of the Gothic kings defcended from Pelayo. Ferdinand advanced towards the city of Leon, at the head of his victorious army, caufed himfelf to be there crowned, and united that kingdom to Caftile, by virtue of his marriage with Doria Sancha, fifter to the late king Bermudo. A new king fprung lip in Aragon about this time. Ferdinand divided his kingdom among his three fons, and died in 1065. The eldeil fon, Don Sancho, feized on the pofieflions of both his brothers, but he was prevented from enjoying them, being aflaffinated in 1072. He was fucceeded by his brother, Don Alfonfo VI. who was APPENDIX, 359 was- proclaimed, after having taken an oath that he was innocent of his brother's death, in prefence of the celebrated Rodrigo Diaz de Vivar, fo well known by the name of the Cid (which in the Morifco language fignifies Lord'.) Alfonfo confined his younger brother, and took Galicia from him. In 1085, he conquered Toledo from the Moors. Nine years after which, the Cid conquered Valencia for the king his mafter : he died in 1099. A French author fays, that the tragedy by Peter Cor- neille, which is intitled after him, and which has been tranflat- ed into almoft all the European languages, has given a greater luftre to his name than all his military exploits did. Alfonfd died in 1 109; and the 6 2d king was Don Alfonfo VII. He was fucceeded, in 1126, by Don Alfonfo VIII. and he, by Don Sancho III. in 1157, who reigned only a year. Don Fer^ dinand II. afterwards reigned a very fhort time, during the mino- rity of Don Alfonfo IX. who was the 66th king. Ferdinand, died in 1188, and Alfonfo in 1214 after a reign of -56 '.years. His fon, Don Henry I. fucceeded him, and was killed the fol- lowing year by the fall of a tile on his head. Don Ferdinand III. furnamed the Saint, was then proclaimed. He conquered Sevilla from the Moors in 1 248 : he died four years after; and, in 1 67 1, was canonized by pope Clement X. who gracioufly permitted the Spaniards to celebrate the feftival of their new faint; He was fucceeded by Don Alfonfo X. furnamed the Wife. He was eleded emperor at Franckfort in 1257 ; and, at the fame time, another party ele^fted Richard earl of Cornwall, and bro- tlier to king. Henry III. *'of England, emperor. Alfonfo went. 360 APPENDIX. to Beaucaire, where he had an interview with pope Gregory X. who refufed to confirm his title of emperor. He died in 1284: he compofed Aftronomical Tables, and two books on the philo- fopher's ftone, which lafl are faid to be yet preferved in the Royal Library at Madrid. His fon, Don Sancho IV. was then crowned; he was furnamed the Brave ; died in 1295, and was llicceeded by his fon Don Ferdinand IV. The Spanifli hiftorians write, that this monarch having caufed two brothers to be thrown from a rock in the kingdom of Jaen, without any trial, they fummoned him to appear before God within thirty days, and that he accordingly died on the laft of thofe days, though in perfeft health : this is faid to have happened in 1 3 1 2. His fon, Don Alfonfo XI. then reigned. In 1342, he laid fiege to the town of Algeciras, which was in poffefTion of the Moors, who defended it with cannon againft the feeble machines of war then in ufe to batter down walls. This is the firft time we find ar- tillery mentioned in hiftory : it was probably invented by the Moors, though gun-powder had before been invented in Ger- many. This fiege lafted two years, but at length the town ca- pitulated by order of the kings of Morocco and Granada, upon condition of a truce of ten years taking place between them and the king of Caftile. Don Alfonfo died of the plague in 1350. He was fucceeded by his fon, Don Peter the Cruel, who was excommunicated by the pope in 1355; and, in 1369, after a reign, of which every day had been diflinguifhed by the moft barbarous executions, ftabbed by his brother Don Henry II. who was then proclaimed king: he died in 13791 and was fucceeded A P P E N D r X. ^dt fucceeded by his fon, Don John I. This prince, hi 1390, was- killed by a fall from his horfe. His fon, DonHeurylll. then reigned. The fir ft clock which was feen in Spain was placed in the cathedral of Sevilla in 1400. In 1402, Don Henry receiv- ed Ambaffadors and magnificent prefents from the famous Ta- merlane. In 1405, Henry enaded laws by which he ordered Jews and concubines of ecclefiaftics to wear a diftinguifhing mark on their clothes ; and the following year he died. His fon, Don John II. who was but fourteen months old, fucceeded him.) imder the regency of his mother and his uncle : at the age of thirteen he took the reins of government into his own hands. In 1434J an ambaflador was fent to him from Charles VII. king of France, requefting his affiftance againft the Englifh : this am- baiTador was received by Don John fitting on a magnificent throne, with a tame lion at his feet, in allufion to his crown of Leon. He died in 1454, and was fucceeded by his fon, Doa Henry IV. furnamed the Impotent, who died in 1474. It was fufpeded that he was poifoned by contrivance of Doiia Ifabel, daughter to John II. fhe married the king of Aragon, and they were jointly proclaimed fovereigns of Caftile and Aragon, under the names of Don Ferdinand V. and Dona Ifabel. Dur- ing their reign the inquifition was eftablifhed, and in the firft auio-de-fe, in 1481, feven perfons were burnt alive. They con- quered upwards of feventy cities and towns, which were pofl^efT- ed by the Mahometans,, among which was the city of Granada, which put an end to the dominion of the Moors in Spain, after having laded almoft eight hundred years. In 1492, America. A a a was. 362 APPENDIX. was dllcovered by Chriftoplier Columbus. In 1496, the title of Catholic was granted to the kings of Spain by pope Alexander VJ. In 1504, queen Ifabel died. In 1509, Oran, in Africa, was taken by the Spaniards ; and, in the fame year, king Henry VIII. of England, efpoufed Dona Catherine of Aragon, daugh- ter to Don Ferdinand, but afterwards Henry divorced her, and feparated himfelf from the Romifli church. In 15 13, Peru, Chi- li, and Paraguay, in South America, were difcovered, and the city of Panama founded. Don Ferdinand died in 15 16, having firft caufed himfelf to be invefted with the Dominican habit. In the mean time, Don Philip I. reigned over Caftile from 1504, till his death, which happened two years after. The 81ft king of Spain was Don Charles I. of Luxemburg, (after- wards the emperor Charles V. in Germany) : he was proclaimed in Valladolid in 151 9. In the fame year Ferdinand Cortez con- quered Mexico. Charles was the firft fovereign who affumed the title of inajejiy. He abdicated the throne at BrufTels in 1555, in favour of his fon, who was proclaimed by the title of Don Philip I J. Charles had been nine times in Germany, fix times in Spain, four times in France, feven times in Italy, ten times in the Netherlands, twice in England, as many times in Africa, and eleven times at fea. He died two years after his abdication, in the monaftery of St. Juft, whither he had retired after a reign of upwards of forty years. In 1559, Don Philip ordered two autos^de-fe, or religious executions, in Valladolid, atone of which himfelf was prefent; feventy un- happy wretches of both fexes were there burnt alive. This bar- barous APPENDIX. 363 barous monarch confined his own fon in prifon, where he lan- guiftied and died : and, in 1568, fent the no lefs barbarous duke of Alva to maffacre thofe inhabitants of the Netherlands who re- fufed to embrace the Catholic Faith. In 1581, Philip was pro- claimed king of Portugal after the death of Don Henry. In 1586, he finifhed the building of the Efcorial: in 1588, fent the navy ftyled the Invincible Armada, againft England; and, in 598, he died, after a reign of near 43 years. He was fucceeded by his fon, Don Philip III. who died in 1621. His fon, Don Philip I V» then, filled the thrones of Spain and Portugal ; but, in 1 640, he loft the crown of the latter kingdom, which was feized by the duke of Braganfa. In 1647, he- renounced all pretenfions to the feven United Provinces, and declared them free and independent. In 1653, he permitted the cruel tribunal of the inquifition to celebrate aa auto-de-Je, in which of feventy- two Jews and heretics, fome were burnt, and others whipped and banifhed. He died in 1665, after a reign of 44 years, and left his kingdom, to his fon Don Charles II. who was at that time an infant of four years of age, under the regency of his mother. She appointed her confeffor, father Nitard, to be grand inquifitor, and placed him at the head of her council. This German Jefuit faid one day to a grandee who fpoke haughtily to him, " Remember, it is you that are to refpe£l me,- ♦* who have every day your God in my hands, and your queen ♦* at my feet." He was afterwards fent ambaffador to Rome, and attaiaed to the dignity of cardinal. At the age of fifteen Don^ A. a. a. 2 Charle&> 364 A P P E N D I X. Charles took the government Into his own hands; and, in 1679^ cfpoufed, at Burgos, the princefs Louifa of Orleans, niece to Lewis XIV. of France; and, by -way of rejoicing at thefe nup- tials, an auto-de-fe was ordered, in which twenty-two viftims of the inquifition periflied in flames, and fixty others were con- demned to corporal punifhment. Don Charles died in 1 700 : as he had no children, he, by his will, declared the duke of Anjou to be his fucceflbr, upon condition that he lliould never be capable of fucceeding to the crown of France. The duke was fecond fon to the Dauphin, nephew to Don Charles, and was proclaimed king at Madrid, under the name of Philip V. In 1724, he abdicated the crown in favour of his fon Don Lewis, who died of the fmall-pox in the fame year, having done no- thing more reiliarkable, then caufing five Jews to be burnt in an auto-de-fe. His father then refumed the government of the kingdom, and died in 1746, after a reign of 46 years. He was twice married ; by his firft marriage, which was with Doria Louifa of Savoy, he had three fons ; the two firft dying, the third fucceeded to the crown by the name of Don Ferdinand VJ. By his fecond marriage, which was with Doiia Ifabel Far- nefe princefs of Parma, he had a fon named Don Charles (the prefent king of Spain), who, in 1734, was declared king of Naples ; two fons who died young, the late duke of Parma, and the infant Don Lewis who is yet living ; the prefent queen of Portugal ; the late dauphinefs of France; and the prefent prin- cefs of Piedmont. Don APPENDIX. 365 Don Ferdinand VI. died in 1759*, and was fucceeded by liis prefent majefly, Don Charles III. (89th king). Berni, the Spanifh hiftorian, in his book, mentioned in p. 177 of this work, and which is dedicated to the king, thus exprefles him- felf : " Our adlual monarch, whom God preferve, is the lord " Don Charles III. of Bourbon : he fucceeded his beloved bro- " thcr the lord Don Ferdinand VI. he efpoufed the lady Dona " Maria- Amelia of Saxony, who is in glory (i. e. dead). " Leaving his praifes to better pens than mine, I fhall only *' fay, that through the mercy of God, we glory in a monarch " happy in religion, juftice, piety, together with arts, fciences, " fabrics, and rewards to the deferving; and we are obliged to " pray to God for the fpi ritual and temporal falvation of our " Catholic monarch (and royal family), and to offer with all '' our hearts, our lives and our goods in defence of his royal *' per Ton, and in obedience to his laws and decrees, with an *' efpecial precife obligation to know him, love him, fear him, " honour him, and guard him. Firft, becaufe in the temporal " he holds the place of God, and is called the vicar of God. *' Secondly, becaufe the authority of his laws is approved by •' the holy fcripture, Bj me kings reig;?, and princes decree jujlice : *' By 7ne princes rule, and nobles, even all the judges of the earth. " Prov. viil v. 15 and 16. Thirdly, becaufe our fovereign, in *' the temporal, acknowledges no fuperior in this world, buton- *' ly the king of kings, who is God, our creator, redeemer, and * This monarch and his father, Philip V. are both faid to have died infene. " faviour. 366 APPENDIX. " faviour. Fourthly, becaufe our monarch is head, heart, and; " foul of the people, and fuch a lover of his vaflals, and of the " upright adminiflration of juftice, that he governs and com- " mands us according to the fcientific laws of the kingdom, *' which are praifed by all the civilized nations in the world, as' " they teach us catholic, juridical, and oeconomieal rules up- " on all occafions, for the better fervice of God, of the king, and *' of the public good, and on the mofl folid foundations explain *' to the Spaniards their obligations to their fovereign : fo that *• we muft ferve, fear, and love him with a fine afFedlion, by the " fight; by the hearing; by the fmell; by the tafte ; by the •* feeling ; by the tongue ; by the underftanding ; by the fancy ; . *' by the imagination; by the thinking; and. by the remem- ** brance*." * See p. 167 for an account of the prefent royal family of Spaio^ C A T A- APPEND I X. N° IV. 367 CATALOGUE of BOOKS which defcribc Spain and Portugal. ENGLISH. 7\/fP' ^0 IRS of the Court of Spain, 1679, i vol. 1 2mo. tranflated from the French, by T. Broivn : political. The Lady^s Travels in Spaing 1679, 2 vols, tranflated from the French. A new Incorred edition of this romantic work was publilhed in 1774- Mifcellaneous TraBs., by Dr. Michael Geddes, 4 vols. 8vo. J 690, on the inquifition, the expulfion of the Moors, &c. 'The Hijlory of the Conquejl of Spain by the Moors, tranflated from the Spanish, by M. Taubman, xbZ'j, i vol. 8vo. A brief Hijlory of the Kings of Spain, by Captain John Stevens, compiler of a Spanifh and Englifli Didionary, 1701, I vol. 8vo. Travels in France, Spain, &:c. 170 ', a fmall folio, by E. Veryard^ M. D. Of this work only ten pages relate to Spain. The Hifory of the Royal Genealogy of Spain, tranflated from *he French by Thomas Richers, 1718, \ vol. 8vo. Bronte's 368 APPENDIX. Bromes Travels through Portugal, Spain, Italy, &c. 1712^ I vol. 8vo. An Account of Spain and Portugal, hj Vdal ap Rhys (or Price)^ 1749, I vol. 8vo. a compilation. Letters concerning the Spanijh Nation, 1761, i vol. 410, by the Reverend Edivard Clarke^ chaplain to the Earl of Briftol. Journey through Portugal and Spain, by Jofeph Baretti, 1760,. 4 vols. 8vo. From Lifbon through Madrid to Barcelona. Hijlory of Minorca, hy fohn Armjirong, i vol. Bvo. with a. map and four plates, 1756. Hijiory of the Straits of Gibraltar., 2 vols. 4to, hy Lieutenant Colonel fames, with eighteen plates, 1771 *. ADefcriptionoftheEfcurial, 1760, 1 vol. 4to. with twelve beautiful copper-plates : Done intoEnglifh by Geo. Thowpfon, Berni's Genealogy of the Kings of Spain, 1 vol. folio, I never, could get a fight of this tranflatioUi FRENCH. Voyage d'Efpagne. par C. de Sercy, 1655, i vol. 4to. Lettres de Madame de Villars, ambafladrice en Efpagne en 1679, a fmall duodecimo, printed at Amfterdam in 1760. Voyage d^ Efpagne,. par Bergeron, 1690, i vol. 8vo. Relation du Voyage d'' Efpagne, par Madame Daunois, 1679, 3 vols. 8vo. This Is the original work which is tranflated, and. entitled the Lady's Travels. * See p. 277, for a farther account of this work. Voyage APPENDIX. 369 Foyage du Pere Lahat en Efpagtie & en Italie, 8 vols. 8vo. The firft volume gives an account of Cadiz and ievilla, and where the author was in 1705; the other fevea volumes contain a defcription of Italy. VEtat prefent de PEfpagncy par PAbbe de Vayrac^ 3 vols. 1 7 1 9. Delices de PEfpagne & du Portugal, 6 vols. 12 mo. 1730, with a great number of indifferent copper-plates. Annales d^EJpagne ^ de Portugal^ 8 vols. 6\o. 1741 : both thefe works are by Don Juan Alvarez de Colmenar, and are chiefly compilations. There is likewife a 4to. edition of the Annales, in 4 vols, with copper-plates. Defcription de Lifbonne, i vol. 8vo. 1730. Hijloire Abregee des Peintres Efpagnoh^ i vol. 8vo. 1740, tranflated and abridged from Don Antonio Palomino yelafco^s Spa- nifh work. Abregee Chronologique de P Hijloire d'EJpagne, par M. Defor-- meaux, 5 vols. 8vo. J 75 8. — — — ■ • ' & de Portugal, in two thick ovo vols. 1765. This is efteemed to be the beft hiftory of the Peninfula. Voyage d^Efpagne en 1755, printed in 1772, 2 vols. 8vo, This- is a very bad and imperfed tranflation of Father Caimo's book,, by P. de Livoy. Voyage de Francey d'EJpagne^ de Portugal, &c. par M. S, 4 vols. 12 mo. 1770. The two laft volumes give a very concife account of the wri- ter's Tour through Spain in 1729, B b b Anecdotes. 37© APPENDIX. Anecdotes Efpagnoks Of Portugaifes, 2 vols, thick odavo, ■1773 : hiftorical. Hijioire de P Afriqiie & de VEfpagnc fous la Domination des Arabcs, par M. Cardonne, 1765, 3 vols. 8vo. There is at prefent a work carrying on in Paris, intltled, Le Voyageur Francois, compiled by the Abbe de la Porte. Eighteen volumes in 8vo. have already appeared : half of the fifteenth con- tains the defcriptlon of Portugal, and the fixteenth that of Spain. ITALIAN. Lettere dhin Vago Italiano ad un Juo Arnica, in 4 vols. 8vo. 1755, by Father Nor her to Caimo *. Stato prefent e di tutti i Popoli del Mondo. This work, which is publifhing in Venice, Is to be comprif- ed in 30 volumes, of which 27 have appeared: the 14th and 15th treat of Spain and Portugal, and have a great number of badly engraven copper-plates, chiefly copied from thofe in the Delices de rE/pagiie, and fome of them are mere works of fancy, efpecially the View of Madrid, where the engraver has reprefented fhips failing near the town ; and that of Gibraltar, v>rhere there is the view of a city fuppofed to be fituated on the top of the rock. The print of the Cortile de los Leones^ in the Alhambra at Granada, is tolerably accurate. * Por a farther account of this work, fee p. 96. I know APPENDIX. 371 Iknow not of any German or Dutch book which, defcribes thefe kingdoms, except the Tr^-y^/j of Van Egmonty where, in the fecond chapter of the firft volume, is fome account of Cadiz. In 1738, were pubUfhed at Amfterdam, two quarto volumes, entitled, Emanuelis Martini Ecclefice Alonenfis Decani, Rpijlola- riim, Ubri duodecim, with a fine head of the author, and two other plates, one of which is a plan of the amphitheatre of Saguntum. PORTUGUESE. Mappa de Portugal, pelo Padre Joa'o Baut. de Cajlro, 3 vols. 4to. Lifbon, 1762, with bad maps. Monument aero de Mafra, por Fr. do Prado, one fmall folio, with three plates, 1751. Roteiro Terrejlre de Portugal : this is a duodecimo, copied from, de Caftro's above mentioned work. SPANISH. La Efpana Sagrada, del P. Florez, 25 vols, in fmall 4to. with a few plates of infcriptions, &c. This work is chiefly eccle- fiaftical hiftory. Medullas de las Colonias.Municip'ws y Pueblos Antiguos de Efpana, by the fame 'Saihcx Florez, 2 vols. 4to. Madrid, 1758, with 58 extremely well engraven plates of the medals. I believe there are two more volumes of this work publifhed lately. B b b 2 Hijioria: 372 APPENDIX. Hijior'ia de his Rfynas de Ejpatia, 2 vols. 4to. by the fame author. Clavi' Hijlorialf by the fame hand, 4to. Madrid, 1769. At the end of this work is inferted a fmall print, reprefenting one of the medals ftruck in honour of admiral Vernon, after his hav- ing taken Puerto-Bello, in 1739 ; the author wilfully confounds this vidory with the unfuccefsful expedition againft Carthagena, in 1741, and fays, '* this medal will be a perpetual teftimony *' of the pride and levity of the Englifh." Don Juan de Mariana publifhed a hiftory of Spain in the laft century, which was lately reprinted in Madrid, in three folio volumes. Compendia de la Hijioria de Efpana, 2 vols. i2mo. Madrid, 1767. This is a very elegant and liberal tranflation from the French of Father du C/ieJhe^ by the celebrated Father Jofeph de IJla, author of Frey Gerundio. Guerra de Granada par Don Felipe II. contra los Morijcos, por Don Diego de Mendoza^ 8vo, 1766. Theatro tini'verfal de Efpana., por Don Francifco de Garma y Salcedo, 4 vols. i2mo. 1768: hiftorical and political. Genealogiti de los Reyes de Efpana^ 1720, i2mo, Antwerp, with a few maps. Defcripcion del Efcorial, del P. Andres Ximenez^ a new edi- tion in folio, with many copper plates, Madrid, 1764. Defcripcion de la Provincia de Madrid^ por D. Thomas LopeZy with a map of the environs of Madrid, 1763, lamo. Defcripcion APPENDIX, 373 T)efcripcion de Valencia^ por Pqfqual de Gillb, 1738, 8vo. with a plan of the city. Defcripcmi del Reyno de Portugal, por D. Francifco NipliOy 1762, i2mo. Coreo general de Efpana. This is a work of which the firfl volume in quarto was publifhed in Madrid 1769, by the fame Don Francifco Nipho : five volumes have already appeared, and it is yet continued, treating of agriculture, arts, and commerce, with a few wooden cuts. Noticia Geografica del Reyno y Caminos de Portugal, por Don Pedro Rodriguez Catnpomanes, i'jt2, 8vo. dedicated to his ex- cellency Don Richard Wall *. V'tage de Efpana, por Don Antonio de la Puente. There were two volumes of this work publifhed in Madrid, 8vo. 1772 and 1774, and it is intended to be continued : it is pretty well writ- ten, but very diffufe, as thefe two volumes contain only the de- fcription of Toledo, Aranjuez, and the Efcorial. Pafeos por Granada, two fmall quartos, 1764. In this work fome information may be picked up from among a heap of non- fenfe. I was acquainted with the author in Granada. To thefe may be added, Creadon, Antigu^edad^ y Privilegios de Jos Titulos de CaJliUa, por D. Jo/cpli Berni, printed, Valencia, 1769, in a thick folio, dedicated to the prefentking. This book contains a lift of the Spanifh monarchs, and of all the nobility, * Smollet's tranflation of Don Q^iixote is dedicated to this gentleman, but 374 APPENDIX. but many errors have unavoidably crept into it : it is ornamentedl with the heads of the fovereigns, though but badly engraven. There are exifting in Spain feveral folio hiftories of Toledo, Sevilla, Granada, Cordova, Madrid, Segovia, Salamanca, &c. all publifhed a hundred years ago, and very uninterefting : for ex- ample, that of Segovia, which is in folio, makes not the leafl: mention of the aquedu£l of Trajan, but then it contains a parti- cular account of relics, and the like rubbifh. From among all this heap of books (moft of which I have been under the difagreeable ncceffity of reading), I recommend the following to the perufal of the intelligent reader. The 1 5th and 16th volume of Le Voyageur Frangois; Father Caimo's Italian work ; La Yfla's Compendium of the Hiftory of Spain ; and de la Puente's Viage de EJ'pana. The plates in the Hijiory of Gibraltar, and in the Defer ipt ion of the Efcurial, are. worthy of infpedtion. Some APPENDIX. 375 'Some Account of the Sp.anish and Portuguese LITERATURE. 'T T O L T A I R E, in his Eflay on Epic Poetry, having criti- ^ cifed the Lufiad of Camoens^ and the Araucana of Ercilla de Ztmigay which are the beft epic poems of the two nations, the firft of which is written in the Portuguefe, and the fecond in the Spanifh language ; I fhall begin with them, availing myfelf of all his remarks, when I find them confonant with thofe of the writers of their refpedtive nations. Lewis de Camoens was born in Lifbon, about the year 1523, of an ancient Poriuguefe family, whilft John III. reigned in Portugal. His fucceffor, Don Emanuel, who was determined to purfue the fcheme which had fo often prove-d abortive, of -opening a route to the Eaft Indies, by way of the ocean, fent Vafco de Gama, in 1497, "^^ith a fleet for that celebrated enter- prize, which having lucceeded, laid the foundation for the commerce which Europe ftill carries on by fea with the Indies, In i5';3, Camoens went to the Indies; a vague defire for tra- velling and making his fortune ; the danger to which his indif- creet gallantries at Lifbon had expofed him ; his difcontented fituation at the court ; and above all, that curiofity which moft- 376 APPENDIX. ly attends a great genius, were the motives which concurred to induce him to leave his country. He firft ferved as a volunteer on board a fliip, and loft an eye in a naval combat in the Straits of Gibraltar. The Portuguefe had already a viceroy in the Indies. Camoens, when at Goa, was exiled by that vice- roy, becaufe he had fatirized fome principal perfons refiding; there, and languiflied feveral years in an obfcure corner on the frontiers of China, where the Portuguefe had a fmall fadory, and where they had begun to build the town of Macao. There it was. that he compofed his poem on the difcovery of the Indies, which he intitled the Liifiaday a title which is but little appli- cable to its fubjedl, and which properly fignifies Portugada. He obtained a fmall place in Macao, and returning from thence to- Goa, he was fhipwrecked on the coaft of China, and is faid to have faved his life by fwimming with one hand, and holding his poem, which was his all, in the other. On his arrival at Goa he was caft into prifon, from whence he was releafed only to undergo a greater misfortune, which was that of following a petty, proud, and avaricious governor to Sofala in Africa. He returned at laft to Lifbon with his poem, which was his whole fortune : he printed it in 1572, and obtained a penfion of about thirty pounds of our money, which was foon taken from him.. He had then no other retreat than an hofpital, where he paffed the reft of his life; and, in 1579, died abandoned by all. He was fcarcely dead, when many honourable epitaphs were made on him, and he was placed in the rank of great men. Several towns difputcd the honour of having given birth to him : fa tiiat APPENDIX. 377 tbat he experienced Homer's fate in every thing- : he travelled like Homer, he lived and died poor, and gained no reputation till after his death. Thefe examples ought to teach men of genius, that it is not by genius that a man acquires a fortune and lives happily,. The fubje(fl of the Lu/iada is neither a war, the quarrel of a hero, nor the world in arms for a woman, but only a new country difcovered by the affiftance of navigation. The poet fets off thus * :■ " I fing the fignallzed men, who from the occidental coaft of '* Lufitania, over feas never before navigated, paffed even be- " yond Taprobana (Ceylon), and in a remote country founded ** a new kingdom." *' Let the navigations of the fage Grecian, and of the " Trojan be no more wondered at. Let the fame of the *' victories of Alexander and Trajan ceafe, for I fing the " illuflrious Lufitanlan whom Neptune and Mars obeyed : let *' the ancient Mufes be filent, for his valour furpafles all they " have fung of others ; and. you, nymphs of the Tagus, if ever ** I celebrated In humble verfe your beautiful river, grant me an *' elevated and flowing ftyle, for Phoebus has ordained that your. " v/aters fhall not envy thofe of Hypocrena, &c. &c." *" The French paragraphs which Voltaire has inferted in his above mentioned efiay, and which he fays were tr.mflated from the original Portu- guefe, are different from the following tranflated quotations, becaufe I have given them as they really are. C c c The 378 A P P IE N D I X. The poet condudls the Portuguefe fleet to the mouth of the Ganges, byway of the Cape of Good Hope: he defcrlbes the different nations inhabiting the coafts of Africa: he artfully in- termixes the hiftory of Portugal in that defcription. In the third canto, ftanza 1 18, is the ftory of Dona Ignez de Caftro : this part Voltaire efteems to be the mod beautiful in the whole poem, and fays, that there are few parts in Virgil more affeifi- ing or better written. 'O Voltaire thus continues : The fimplicity of the poem is en- nobled by fidlions as novel as the fubje£t. The following one, I venture to affirm, will be admired in all times, and by all nations. *' When the fleet is on the point of doubling the Cape of " Good-Hope, at that time called the Promontory of Tempefts, " a formidable objed is difcovered : it is a phantom which rifes *' out of the bottom of the fea ; his head touches the clouds; *' tempefts, winds, and thunders environ him ; his arms extend " over the whole furface of the waters : this monfter, or this " god, is the guardian of this ocean, of which the waves had *' never yet been ploughed by any veflel ; he threatens the fleet, ** he complains of the audacity of the Portuguefe, who are *' come to difpute the empire of thofe feas with him, and an- ** nounces all the calamities which they are to fufi^er in the pro- ** fecution of their enterprife." Canto v. ftanza 39, The literal tranflation of part of the above paffage is as Follows: ♦^ One APPENDIX. 379 ** One night a cloud, which darkened the air, appeared over " our heads, the tempeftuous fea roared horribly, fo that our " hearts trembled ; a phantom was then feen in the air, of an " enormous ftature and deformed human fhape, his fize furpaff- *' ed that of the Coloffus of Rhodes, his beard was fqualid, his " eyes funk in his head, his hair clotted with earth, his com- " plexion pallid, his mouth black, and his teeth yellow; his " horrid voice, which caufed our hair to fland on end, feemed to ** Iflue from the bottom of the fea, &c." Another fiction in this poem is much admired by the Portu- g»efe, and conforms to the Italian genius : it is an enchanted iiland, which appears at fea, in order to refrefh Gama and his fleet *. This ifland Is fald to have ferved as a model for the ifland of Armida, defcribed by Taffo a few years afterwards. There Venus, aided by thecounfels of the Eternal Father, and, at the fame time, feconded by the arrows of Cupid, caufes the Nereides to fall in love with the Portuguefe ; each of whom em- braces a Nereid, and Vafco de Gama falls to the lot of Thetis. In the ninth canto, that goddefs tranfports him to the top of a high mountain, fituated in the moft delicious part of the ifland, from thence fhe flieweth him all the kingdoms of the world, and the glory of them ; and in the tenth and laft, foretels the deftiny of Portugal. * Os fermofos Limoes, alll che'irandv Ejiao virgmeas tetas imitando. Canto ix. Stanza 56. The goodly lemons, with their button-caps, Hang imitating virgin's fragrant paps. Fanshaw, Ccc2 Camoena 380 APPENDIX. Camoens, after having abandoned himfelf without referve to the voluptuous defcription of the ifland, and of the pleafures into wrhich the Portuguefe are plunged, thinks proper to inform the reader, that this whole fiftion only implies the pleafure that an honeft man feels in doing his duty. The principal aim of the Portuguefe, after the eftablifhment of their commerce, is the propagation of the faith, and Venus takes the fuccefs of that cnterprize upon herfelf. To fpeak feri- cufly, fuch an abfurd miracle disfigures the whole work in the eyes of a fenfible reader ; but the beauty of the ftyle, and the imagination in the exprefllon, have fuflained the reputation of this poem. Thus the beauties of execution have clafled Paul Veronefe among the greater painters, though he has placed Benedidine monks and Swifs foldiers in fubjedts taken from the Old Teftament. Camoens is perpetually guilty of the like ab- furdities ; he quotes Ulyffes and ^neas to the king of Melinda, as if an African barbarian underftood Homer and Virgil. But of all the defe>fls in thi-s poem, the greateft is the little connec- tion its parts have with each other ; it refembles the voyage it defcribes. On the whole, the work contains many beauties, and has delighted the Portuguefe nation for thefe laft two bun- 'dred years *. In the 6th canto, (ftanza 43 to 68), a tale is told ^s hoiv twelve Portuguefe knights went to England, towards the end of the four- * Almoft all the foregoing remarks are tranflated from Voltaire. teenth APPENDIX. 3S1 teenth century, and fought with, and vanquifhed twelve EngUflt knights, who had afperfed the fame of the like number of Englifh ladies, and had *' Said they would prove that fuch and fuch of them, " Had been too lavifh of their honor's gem." Fanshaw. The whole poem is comprifed in ten cantos, and the total number of ftanzas is 1 102 ; each ftanza confifting of eight lines. There Is an old Spanifh tranflation of the Lufiad extant, but I never could meet with it. In 1655, an Englifh tranflation of the Lufiad was publiflied by Richard Fanfhaw. This is a thin folio, without any notes, but ornamented with the portraits of Camoens, Don Henry of Portugal, and Vafco de Gama. In p. 299 of the prefent work, I have inferted a ftanza from Camoens, which is thus tranflated by Mr. Fanfliaw : So a brifk lover in the bloody place (His beauteous miftrefs by, in a balcon) Seeks out the bull, and (planted face to face) Curvets, runs, whiftles, waves, and toles him on; But the ftern bruite, ev'n in a moment's fpace (His horned brow low'd to the earth) doth run Bellowing about like mad ; and (his eyes fhut) Difmounts, ftrikes, kills, and tramples under-foot. As 382 APPENDIX. As thia tranflation is very difficult to be met with, I fhall' add another ftanza, as a fpecimen of the author's verli?- fication. Canto ix. v. 83. O what devouring kifles (multiply'd). What pretty whimp'rings did the grove repeat ! What flatt'ring force ! what anger which did chide Itfelf, and laught when it began to threat ! What more than this, the blufhing morning fpy'd,. And Venus, (adding her's to the noon's heat) Is better try'd then guefs'd, I muft confefs : But thofe who cannot try it, let them gu€fs. The original runs thus : O que famintos betjos naforejla, E que mimofo choro, quefoava, ^e of ago s taof naves, que ira honejlai, ^e em rifinhos alegresfe tornava !. O que mats pafsao na menliaa, & na fejla^. ^e Venus com prazeres inflamdva, Melhor he experiment ah, quejulgdlo, Mas julgueo, que nao pode exprimentdlo. In juftice to Camoens and to Fanfliaw, I beg leave to add' part of Dona Ignez's pathetic fupplication to her hufoand's father, who was determined to have her put to death. APPENDIX. Para o ceo crijlalino levanta?2do Com lagrimas os olhos ptedofos^ Os olhas, porque as maos Ihe ejiava atando Hum dos duros minijiros rignrofos : E depois nos minims atentando, ^e fao queridos tinha, & tao mimofos^ Cuja orfandade como may temia. Para o avb cruel ajji dizia. O' tu, que tens de hiimano o gejio, & peito^ fSe de humano he matar huma donzella Fraca, & fern forga^ fo por terfugcito O coracao, a quern foube iiencellaj A ejias criancinhas tern refpeito, Pois nao tens a morte efcura della^ Movate a piedade fua^ & minhay Pois te Tiao move a culpa^ que nab tinlnh Thus tranflated : Lifting unto the azure firmament Her eyes, which in a fea of tears were drown 'd ; Her eyes, for one of thofe malevolent And bloody inftruments, her hands had bound ; And then, the fame on her dear infant's bent. Who them with fmiling innocence furround. By whom poor orphans they will ftreight be made. Unto their cruel grandfather thus faid : O thou, 383 384 APPENDIX. O thou, wliofe fuperfcription fpeaks thee, man, (That the contents were fuited to the cover ! A feeble maid thou wouldft not murther than, Onely for loving him, who firft did love her) Pity thefe babes (the babes about him ran) In thy hard doom fince I am fpot all over. Spare, for their fakes, their lives, and mine : and fee Whitenefs in them, though thou wilt not in me^ I am informed that a Mr. Mickle of Oxford intends fhortly to publiih another tranflation of this poem. A French tranflation (in profe) of the Lufiad, was publiflied by Duperon de Caftera, in three o£lavo volumes, with remarks. This is the moll: defpicable tranflation that has ever difgraced any work, and I fhall leave the reader to judge of the demerit of the notes and explanations, by quoting a few of them. " In *' this poem, Venus reprefents the Chriflian religion ; Bacchus, " the devil ; Mercury, the angels, who are the meflJengers of " God, in our religion, as he was the meffenger of Jupiter, in *' that of the pagans. " Mars reprefents Jefus Chrift : the allufion is natural enough ; *♦ Jefus Chrift: has fhed his blood, he has fought for us, and his *' goodnefs has furnifhed us with arms to combat vice ; we may, " without a crime, call him the god of war, efpecially after *' what St. John fays in the firft: chapter of the Revela- ** tions : ' His voice was as the found of many waters : and he "had APPENDIX. 385 ''* liad in his right-hand feven ftars; and out of his mouth went *' a fharp two-edged fword.' This defcription does not ill be- " come a warrior. As to what Camoens adds about the ancient " love of Mars to Venus, it mufl: be underftood of the love of " Jefus Chrifl; to the church. Cupid reprefents divine love, " and ought always to accompany religion, which would with- ■*' out it be a mere lifelefs beauty." In the fecond canto, the ftory of Adleon is introduced, and our ingenious commentator fays, " the myftical fenfe of this *' fable, is, that if Adleon, and others who, like him, give a " loofe to violent paflions, were to difcover the beauties of true '" religion, they would be charmed with them. Mars, who is <' Jefus Chrift, feels his heart penetrated with tendernefs on " beholding the beauties of his religion. Vulcan, who is a De- " mon as w^ell as Bacchus, conceives a cruel jealoufy on that ac- *' count. Ail this is as it ought to be ; and far from criticifing " our author, ought we not rather to admire the delicacy " of his emblems, and the excellent ufe he makes of fabulous •" hiftory?" In the notes on the ninth canto, after the defcription of the ifland where the Nereids amufe themfelves with the Portuguefe failors, the explanator fays, " Poetry has always had a right to " make ufe of corporal images, in order to teach us moral and ^' metaphyfical knowledge ; not only Grecian and Latin authors, *' but even the Pfalms of David, the Canticles of Solomon, &c. ■**' .abound in the like allegories, &;c." D d d By 386 APPENDIX. By this time I imagine the reader is fufficiently difgufted with- this kind of remarks, fo that I fhall only add, that in one of the notes on the fixth canto, its worthy author has commemorated the names of the dozen knights who fo vaUantly fought for the EngUfli ladies ; fays he, " I thought I fliould have ailed un- " juftly hy thofe great men, if I had pafled over their names in " filence; fo many perfonages are tranfmitted to pofterity who *' do not deferve to be remembered, and fhould we refufe a few *' lines to the memory of thofe who ought to ferve us for models? * And this book was printed in Paris in 1768 !. The new Paris edition of the works of Camoens, in three duodecimo volumes, 1759 (in Portuguefe), contains, in the firfl volume the Lufiad\ and, in the two others, upwards of 300 fonnets. A poem in three cantos, entitled. Of the Creation and Compofition of Man, in 201 ftanzas. Two comedies in verfe, each of a fingle ad : the one entitled, King SeleucuSj and the other, The Amphitrions j and feveral pieces of mifcel- laneous poetry. TOWARDS the end of the fixteenth century, Spain produced an epic poem, celebrated for the fingularity of tlie fubjeft, as well as for fome peculiar beauties, but more fo for the character of the author.. Don Alonfo de Ercilla y Zuiiiga, knight of the order of Santiago, and one of the gentlemen of the bed-chamber to the APPENDIX. 387 ■tlie emperor Rodolf II. was born in Bifcay about the year 1540. He was brought up from his youth in the palace, and in the fervice of the emperor Charles V. he was afterwards page to king Philip II. and accompanied that prince in his travels through the Netherlands and Germany *. Don Alonfo fought in the battle of St Quintin, and after- wards, " impelled by an infatiable avidity of acquiring true *' knowledge, that is to fay, to know men and to fee the world," travelled through Spain, France, Italy, Germany, Hungary, Bohemia, and England. When he was in London, he heard that feveral provinces of Peru, and of Chili, had taken arms againfl the Spaniards, their conquerors (this attempt of the •Americans to recover their liberty, is treated as rebellion by the ' 'Spanlfh authors) ; the paffion he had for glory, and the dehre of feeing and undertaking extraordinary things, made him re- -turn to Spain, and embark for thofe parts of the new world. He landed in Chili with a few troops, and remained there during the whole time of the war. On the fouthern frontiers of Chili is a little mountainous country, called Araucana, inhabited by a more ferocious and Tobufl: race of men than is found in any other part of America. They fought in defence of their liberty longer, and with more * In the folio edition of tlie book, entitlcJ, V'uiji' de el Principe Don Phclippe^ par Don Juan Clirijlavul Calvste de Ejhclla, printed at Antwerp in 4J52, Don Alonfo is frequently mention;d. D d d 2 courage 388 APPENDIX.. courage than the reft of the Americans, and they were the lafl that were fubdued by the Spaniards. Don Alonfo was expofed. to many dangers durhig the profecution of the war ; he faw, and' performed many furpriiing adions, of which the only reward- was the honour of conquering rocks, and of reducing a few bar- ren lands under the obedience of the king of Spain. Don Alonfo during the war conceived the defign of immor- talizing his enemies, by immortalizing himfelf : he was at the- fame time the conqueror and the poet, writing at night the ac- tions of the day*, and was frequently obliged to lay down his pen and take up hisfword ; he fought in feven pitched battles, and returned to Spain with the firft part of his ^raucana finifhed,. when he had not yet attained to the age of twenty-nine years. Irj 1577, he publifhed the above-mentioned firft part j and, in 159c,. the entire poem. He v/as then about forty-three years old; after- which there is no mention made of him in hiftory, either regarding his ftation, his works, or the time and place of his death. His poem is divided into three parts, containing 37 cantos,. and the total number of ftanzas is 2603, which is more than, double the number of thofe of the Lufiad. A continuation of the Araucana., by Don Dkgo de Santiftevan: OforiOy is ufually bound with the original poem, in the Spanifll. «ditions. This continuation is comprifed in 20 cantos, or about- 2300 ftanzas. * EJlando afi una noche retirade, Efcribur.do el fucejo de aquel dia. Canto xxiii. Stanza 61. The- APPENDIX. 389 The poem Is called Araucmia^ from the country where the events happened which are commemorated in it *. It begins .with a geographical defcription of Chili, and with an account of the manners and cuftoms of the inhabitants. Such a begin- ning, which would be infupportable in any other poem, is necef- fary here, where the fcene is laid beyond the other tropic, and where the heroes are favages, who would always have remained unknown to us, if they had not been conquered, and thus cele- brated. The fubjedt which is novel, gave rife to fmgular thoughts. I fhall give the reader one example, as a fpark of the noble fire which fometimes animated our author. *' The Araucanians, fays he, were greatly aftonifhed when *' they faw creatures like men, carrying fire in their hands, and " mounted upon monfters, which fought under them ; they at •' firft thought them to be gods defcended from heaven, armed " with thunder, and followed by deftrudion, which made them " fubmit, however reludantly. But after a time, becoming fa- " miliarifed with their conquerors, they difcovered their palTions ^ and their vices, and judged that they were men. Afliamed *' then of having crouched under mortals fimilar to themfelves, ** they fwore they would wafli their error in the blood of thofe « who were the caufe of it, and to execute an exemplary, terrible,. " and memorable vengeance on them t-" * Moft of the following remarks on this poem are tranfiatcd from Voltaire. t Canto i. ftanza 64. And, canto ii, ftanza 7, Voltaire .;90 APPENDIX. Voltaire has very juftly made a comparifon between Don Alonfo and Homer, in regard to a particular paffage in the works of each of thofe poets i and, in order to do juftice to the Spaniard, I fhall give an extrad of the whole paffage, together with Voltaire's judgment on it. Part of the fecond canto contains a fubje»£l which much re- fembles the beginning of the Iliad, but by being treated in a different manner, deferves to be placed under the eye of the im- partial reader. The firfl aftion of the Araucana is a quarrel which arlfes among the barbarian chiefs, as that betweea Achilles and Agamemnon in Homer. The difpute is not about a captive, but about the command of the army. Each of the favage generals vaunts his merit and his exploits, and the dif- pute grows {o warm, that they are ready to come to blows. Then one of the Caciques (named Co/oco/o) as old as Neftor, but lefs prejudiced in his own favour than the Grecian hero, makes the following harangue. " Caciques, illuflrious defenders of our country, it is not the *' ambitious defire of commanding which engages me to fpeak " to you. I do not complain that you fhould fo warmly difpute " an honour which would be perhaps due to my age, and which " would adorn my decline. It is my tendernefs for you, it is the *' love that I owe to my country, which follicits me to demand " your attention to my feeble voice. Alas ! how can we liave '* an opinion of ourfelves good enough to pretend to any gran- ** deur, and to be ambitious of pompous titles ; w^e who have " been APPENDIX. 391 « been the unhappy fubjeds, and the flaves of the Spaniards. ** Your anger, O Caciques, your fury, fhould they not be " rather excrcifed againftour tyrants? Why do you turn againft " yourfelves thofe arms which might exterminate our enemies, " and revenge our country ? Ah ! if you will pcrifh, feek a " death which will obtain glory. With one hand break the " fliameful yoke, and with the other attack the Spaniards, and *' do not fpill in a fterile quarrel the precious remains of that " blood which the gods have left you to revenge yourfelves. " I applaud, I own, the haughty emulation of your courage: " that fame pride, which I condemn, augments the hopes " which I conceive. But, let not your blind valour combat " againft itfelf, and let it not, itfelf, deftroy the country it ought " to defend. If you are refolvednot toceafeyour quarrels, plunge *^ your blades into my frozen blood. I have lived too long: " happy he who dies without Teeing his country-men unhappy, *' and unhappy by their own fault ! Liften then to what I ven- " ture to propofe to you : your valour, O Caciques, is equal ; " you are all equally illuftrious by your birth, by your power, ** by your riches, by your exploits : your fouls are equally *• worthy of commanding, equally capable of fubjugating the " univerfe. It is thofe celeftial prefents, which caufe your " quarrels. You want a chief, and each of you deferves to be " it ; thus, as there is no diftindion between your courages, " let ftrength of body decide what the equality of your virtues ** would never have decided, &;c." The old man then pro- pofes an exercife worthy of a barbarian nation, to carry a large and ; 392 A P P E N D I X. and heavy beam, and to grant the honour of command to hhn who bears the weight of it longeft. As the beft method of jerfeding our tafte, is to compare to- gether things of a fimilar nature, let us oppofe the difcourfe of Neftor to that of Colocolo, and renouncing that adoration which our juftly prejudiced fenfes pay to the great name of Homer, let us weigh the two harangues in the balance of equity and reafon. After Achilles^ infl:ru£led and infpired by Minerva, the goddefs of Wifdom, has called Agameviuon a drunkard and a dog ; the fage Nejior rifes to calm the irritated fpirits of thofe two heroes, and fpeaks thus : " What a fatisfadlion will the Trojans have when they hear " of your difcords ? Your youth ought to refpe(£t my years, and *' fubmit Itfelf to my counfels. I have formerly feen heroes *' fuperior to you. No, my eyes will never more behold men *' fimilar to the invincible Pirithoiis, to the brave Cineus, to " the divine Thefeus, &c. I went to the wars with them, and " though I was young, yet my perfualive eloquence had pov;-er " over their minds. They liftened to Neftor: hearken then, *' young warriors, to the advice which my age gives you. " Atrides, you muft not retain the flave of Achilles ; fon of *' "Thetis you muft not treat the chief of the army haughtily. *' Achilles is the greateft, the moft courageous of warriors j Aga~ " ;«(?//;«(?« is the greateft of kings, &c." His APPENDIX. 393 His fpeecli was infrudiuousj Agamemnon pralled his elo- quence, and defpifed his advice. Let us confider on one fjde the art with which the barbarian Cohcolo infinuates himfelf into the minds of the Caciques, the refpediable fweetnefs with which he calms their animofity, the majefti^ tendernefs of his words, how much the love of his country animates him; how much the fentiments of true glory penetrate his heart •, with what prudence he praifes their cou- rage, while he reprefles their fury ; with what fkill he gives the fuperiority to no one : he is at once a dexterous cenfor and panegyrift, fo that all fubmit to his reafonings, acknowledging the force of his eloquence, not by vain praifes, but by fpeedy obedience. On the other fide let us judge whether Nejior is wife in talking fo much about his wifdom ; whether to contemn the Grecian princes, and to place them below their anceftors, be a fure method of engaging their attention ; whether the whole alTembly with pleafure hears ISIeJlor fay, that Ad.illes is the moft courageous of all the chiefs who are prefent. After hav- ing compared t?ie prefumptuous and unpolite babbling of NcJI'jr with the modeft and meafured difcourfe of Colocohy the odious difference which he puts between the rank of Agamemnon and the merit of Achilles, with the equal portion of grandeur and courage artfully attributed to all the Caciques, let the reader pronounce; and if there be a general in the world, who willing- ly fufters his inferior to be preferred to him in point of courage; if there be an aflembly, the members of which will patiently E e e endure 394- APPENDIX. endure an orator to talk of them contemptuoufly, and brag of their anceftors at their expence, then Homer may be preferred to Alonfo in this particular cafe. It is true, that if Alonfo in one only paflage is fuperior to Horner^ he is in almoft all the reft of his poem inferior to the leaft of poets : one is furprifed to fee him fall fo low after hav- ing taken fuch a high flight. There is, without doubt, much fire in his battles, but no invention, no plan, no variety in the defcriptions, no unity in the defign. His poem is more favage than the nations which are the fubjed. of it. Towards the end of the work, the author, who is one of the principal heroes of the poem, performs a long and tedious march during the night, followed by a few foldiers, and, to pafs the time, he difpute& with them about Virgil, and principally on the epifode of Dido. Ke takes this opportunity of entertaining his foldiers with an ac- count of Didoes, death, as it is told by ancient hiftorians ; and, in order the better to give Virgil the lie, and reftore the reputa- tion of the queen of Carthage, he amufes himfelf with dlfcourf- ing upon this fubjedl during the greateft part of two cantos (3 2d and 33d). There are no other works of Don Alonfo extant befides the Araucana^ except a fmall Elegy of four ftanzas, which is publifhed in the fecond volume of the Spanifi Parnafflis^ together with a head of the author, engraven by CajmAui. The APPENDIX. 395 The Araticana has never (to the bell of my knowledge) been tranflated. As a fpecimen of the author's poetry, I fhall infert the ipeecli of Colocolo to the Caciques. Colocolo, el cacique mas anclanot A razonar afi^ tomb la mano. " Caciques del EJlado defetiforeSf Codicia de mandar no me convida A' pefarme de veros pret en/ores De cofa, que a nil tanto era debida j For que fegiin mi edad, yk veis^ Jenores^ ^le ejloy al otro mundo de partida ; Mas el amor, quejiempre os he mojlrado.^ A bien aconfejaros ?ne ha incitado. " Par que cargos honrofos pretendemosy Tfer en opinion grande tenidos, Pues que negar al mundo no podemos Haber Jido fujetos^ y vencidos ? T en ejio averiguarnos no queremos, EJiando aun de Efpanoles oprimidos : Mejor fuera ejlafuria egecutalla. Contra eljiero enemigo en la bat-alla. " ^^ furor es el vuejlro^ 6 Araucanos ^e a perdicion os llevafinfentillo ? Contra vuejlras entranas teneis manos. Y no contra el tirano en rejijltllo ? £ e e 2 ' Teniendo 396t APPENDIX. T(niendo tan a golpe a los Chrijiianos, Voheis contra vojotroi el cuchillo P Si gatia de morir os ha movido., Nofea en tan hajo ejiado, y abatido. " Vohed las armas, y animofuriofo A los pechos de aquellos que os lian puejia En dura fujecion^ con afrentofo Partido, a todo el mundo manifiejlo :- Lanzad de vos elyugo ijergonzofo : Mojlrad viiejiro valor y fuerza en ejio : No derrameis lafangre del Ejiado^ ^e para redimir nos ha quedado. ** No me pefa de ver la lozama De vuejlro corazon^ antes me esfuerza ;. Mas temo que ejia vuejira valentra Par mal goblerno, el biien c amino tuerza : ^ue vuelta entre nofotros laporfta, Degollais vuejlra patria con fu fuerza : Cor tad, pues, fi ha defer de ejla manerai Efa vieja garganta^ la primer a. " ^e ejlaflaca perfona, atormentada De golpes de fort una, no procura Sino el agudo filo de una efpada^ Pues no la acaba tania defventura ■: Aquella vida es bien afortunada, ^ue la temprana muerte la afegura ; Pero APPENDIX. 397 Pero d nuejiro bien publico atendlendo, ^iero decir en ejio lo que entiendo. " Pares fois en valor y fort aleza : El cielo OS igualo en el nacimiento : De linage y de ejlado, y de riqueza Hizo a todos igual repartimiento ; T enfmgular por dnimo y grandeza Podeis tener del mundo el regimiento : ^e ejle graciofo don no agradecido, Nos lid al prefente termino traido. " En la virtud de vuejiro brazo efperOt ^e puede en breve tiempo remediarfe-^ Mas hd de haber iin capitan primero, ^ue todos por ^l quieran gobernarfe : EJleferd quien mas un gran madero Sufretitare en el hombrojin pararfe ; T plies quefois iguales en lafucrte, Proctire cada qual defer tnas fiierteJ* Ningun hombre dejb de ejldr atento, . Oyendo del anciano las razones ; T puejlo ydfilencio al parlamentOy Hubo entre ellos diverfas opiniones : Alfin^ de general confentimiento, Sigiiiendo las mejores intencio/zes, Por todos los Caciques acordado Lo propuejlo del viejafue aceptado.- The. 398 APPENDIX. The works of Cervantes, Quevedo, and Feijoo, are too well known in England to need any commemoration here. Of the books of Phyfic, Law, and Divinity, which fwarm in the Spanifli and Portuguefe languages, as well as in others, I (hall fay nothing, becaufe I underftand them not. In 1768, the firft volume, in odavo, of a work entitled El Parjiafo Efpanoli was publiihed in Madrid. In 1770, three more volumes appeared, and a volume in each of the three fub- fequent years. This work is a collection of the heft Spanifh poems, and fugitive poetical pieces, with fome account of the lives of the authors, and a fhort criticifm on each piece, very beautifully printed, and ornamented with twelve elegant cop- per-plates, all engraven by Carmona. I fhall give a fhort ac- count of the contents of each volume, and prefent the reader with fome of the moll feled; pieces, with the tranflations as lite- rally as the two languages will permit. After a frontifpiece, reprefenting Apollo fitting among the Mufes, the work opens with a tranflation of Horace's Art of Poetry, by Vincent Efpinel. Then follow twenty- two canzonets, feledled from the forty-four, compofed by D. Efleban Manuel de Villegas, under the title of DclicLis. Several detached pieces. A Madrigal, by Lewis Martin, as follows : Iba APPENDIX. 399 Iba cogiendo fores, T guardando en lafalda Mi n'tnfa, para hacer una guirnalda ; Mas primero las toca A' los rofados labtos defu boca, T les da defu aliejito los olores j T ejlaba fporfu bienj entre una rofa TJna abeja efcondida^ Su duke humor hurlando ; Y como en la hermofa Flor de los la bios fe hallo., atrevida^ La pica., faco miel^t fttefe volando. '< My nymph coUeded flowers into her lap, in order to *' make a garland ; but fhe firfl applies them to her rofy lips, " and with her breath gives them their odour. A bee (happily *' for it) was hidden within a rofe, Healing its fweets ; and, " when it approached the beautiful flower of her lips, it *' boldly ftung them, extraded honey out of them, and " flew away.'* A Sonnet hy Liipercio Leonardo de Argenfola. tras importuna lluvias amanece Coronando los monies elfolclaro> Alegre falta el Labrador avaroy ^w las horas ociofas aborrece. La 4CO APPENDIX. X,a corvafrenie al duro yugo ofrece Del animal, que a Eiiropafue tan caro, Sale de fu famUia fuerie awparo, T los Jurcos folicito enriquece. Vuehe de noche dfii muger lionejlay ^e Itimbre, mefa, y lecho le apercibct T el enjambre de hijos le rodea. Faciles cojas cena con gran fiejla^ Elfuenojin embidia le recibe. O corte^ 6 confujion, qtiien te defea I " The bright fun rifes, among importunate rains, crown- *' ing the mountains : the greedy labourer abhors idle hours, " and goes joyfully to work ; he offers to the yoke the bent *' neck of the animal, which was fo dear to Europa ; he is the " flrong fupport of his family, and carefully enriches the fur- " rows ; he returns at night to his honeft wife, who prepares " fire, table, and bed for him, and his fwarm of children en- " virons him : he eats his light fupper with great content, fleep *' receives him without envy. O court, O confufion, who de- ** fires thee ! A Sonnet by Chrijloval Suarez de Figueroa. O bienfeliz el que la "jtda pafa Sin ver del que gobierna el apofento^ T }nas quien deja el cortefano afiento For la hiimildad de la pajiza cafal £>ue APPENDIX. 401 ^ E N D I XT. 417 ISFo ejlafm una punta de locura, T a veces con remiendos de otros dams. Mucho debes a yulia, Fabio amigOy Sliie de tantos peligros te ha librado Con negarte lafe que te debia. Til de que engana al otro eres tejligo^ T lloras no haver Jido el enganado f Riete fino quieres que me r'la.. " Who has ever feen a marriage without fraud, more efpe- ** cially if beauty be part of the portion ? which lafts no longer *' than till it be enjoyed, and leaves one to wake undeceived. *' Either the years of the woman are more, or her eftate is " lefs J and even in the fafefl way marriage is a kind of folly, ** and only patches up the evils it wifhed to mend. " Friend Fabius, thou oweft much to Julia, who has per- *' mitted thee to efcape fo many perils, by denying thee her' " hand ; and doft thou, who art witnefs to the deceit ufed to " others, lament that thou art not the party deceived ? Laugh, " if thou wilt not have me laugh at thee." A Sonnet fuppofed to be written by Don Diego de Mendoza.- No hay CO fa mas gajlada., ni traida^ ^e la fay a de Ines, y el pobre manto : JJn cerrojo de carcel no lo es tanto, Ni la play a del marjiempre batida : Hhh No^ 4^5 APPENDIX. No Ics da Jwra de huelga la perdida. En Pafcua, ni Domingo, ni Difdfjto 2'" tanto los aqueja, que vie ejpanto ; Como no dan al trajle con la vida. La rueda de Ixlon, que no fojiega, Tfu pena infernal 'que no repofa Refpeto de ejle manto efta parada. Pero la mi/ma Ines tiene otra cofa ^lefu perfona y ella no lo niega., ^e ejia muy mas traiday mas gajlada. " There is nothing more common, nor more worn than the " cloak and petticoat of Agnes; a prifon-bolt is not more ufed, " nor yet the fhores which are eternally beaten by the waves : " their miftrefs never fuffers them to reft either on Sundays or " holidays, and ufes them fo much, that I wonder they are not " fretted to pieces. The wheel of Ixion, which never refts, ** and the never-ceafmg pain it inflidts, ftand ftill in compari- " fon with this cloak. Neverthelefs the fame Agnes has another *' thing of which fhe is very liberal, and which is much more .*' worn, and much more often ufed." This fonnet is fomewhat in the ftyle of one of Shenftone's Levities^ which begins " Let Sol his annual journies run." The APPENDIX. 419 The fifth volume is ornamented with the portraits of Fr. Luis de Leon, and el Conde de Rebolledo, and contains nothing but what is called facred poetry, being fongs and fonnets addrefTed to Chrift, to the Virgin Mary, to St. James, to the archangel St. Michael, to the m oft Holy Trinity, to the Samaritan Woman, to the moft Holy Sacrament, part of the Lamentations of Jere- miah, &c. I have not read this volume, but I believe the Englifh reader's curiofity will be gratified in being acquainted with the fubjeds of three or four of the fonnets : one of which runs thus : *< A clown afks Faith how the entire, real, and phv- " fical body of God can be contained in the facramental bread, " and likewife in every one of its parts when broken ? To which " Faith anfwers, that as a looking-glafs, though broken into *' thoufands of pieces, ftill reflefts an entire image, fo," &c. &C. &C»: In another fonnet, is a paflage which fays, " The iron of the " lance of Longinus ferved him for a fteel, Chrift for a flint, " and the Crofs for tinder," &c &c. The fonnet, in p. 39, ia extraordinary, but will not bear an Englifh tranflation. The laft fonnet in the book is literally thus : " The fo- ♦' vereign Pages of the moft holy God, ftand with white torches " and white tapers in the empyrean palaces ; a thoufand forts ^« of Indian incenfes and Syrlac perfumes fmoke upon carpets " ornamented with foliages, between amaranths and filvered *• lilies. The Virgin arrived at the empyrean faloon, (a vilit H h h 2 •• greatly 420 APPENDIX. " greatly defired by heaven) with the fun for her mantle, and *' the moon for her pattens. The feraphims proftrated them- " felves at her feet, the angels fung joyfully to her, and the *' Holy-Word placed her at his fide." The fixth volume confifls wholly of dramatic pieces *. After a frontifpiece reprefenting tragedy, are the two Spanilh tragedies written in 1577 by F. Geronimo Berraudez ; they are entitled Nife to be pitied, and Nife crowned with laurels., or the Hiftory of DoHa Ines de Caftro princefs of Portugal "f. They are each in five adts, and in blank verfe, with double chorufles, of which three are Sapphic. Then follows 'The Vengeance of Agamemnon., a tragedy of a fmgle ad, in profe, with chorufles, tranflated from Sophocles by Fernan Perez de Oliva. The Sorrowful Hecuba, a tragedy of one ad:, in profe, by the fame hand, from Euripides. Ifabela, and Alexandra, two tragedies by Lupercio de Argen- fola, each of three ads, in blank verfe. Thefe two tragedies are praifed by Cervantes in the firfl: part of his Don QuiKOte. It cannot be expe£led that I fhould here give the plot of them, I have thought it fufficient to indicate where they are to be found. , * The name of the compiler of this colieiHion of poems is now acknow- ledged to be Don Juan de Sedano. t See pages 348 and 383 of this worJc. The A P P "E N D I X. 421 The feventh and laft volume contains the portraits of Fernando de Herrera, and Don Luis de Gongora y Argote, and a great number of fliort mifcellaneous poems, from which I fhall feledl the following Two Epigrams by Bait afar del Alcazar. Magdalena me plco Con un aljiler un dedo : Dijela : picado quedo, Feroya lo eft aba yo. Riofe^ y con f 11 cor dura Acudib al remedlo prcjlo : Chupbme el dedo, y con ejlo Sane de la picadura. Mojlrhne Ines por retrato De fu belleza los pies. To le dije : efo es Ines Bufcar cinco pies al gafo. Rioje, y como eran bellos^ T ella por ejlretno bella, Arremeti por cogella, T ejcapofeme por ellos. I conjedure thefe epigrams to be fomewhat allegorical, and fhall not tranflate them, for a reafon which will be obvious to thofe who underftand the Spanifh language. Eight Eclogues by ^evedo, entitled La BucoUca de el Tajo. A Sonnet by King Charles 11. of Spain, not worth inferting, with which I fhall embellifli and conclude the account of this •coUedion, as the compofitions of monarchs are not numerous : it was written about the year 1695. O rompa ya eljilencio el dolor miot Tfalga de ejle pecho defatado i 9ue 422 APPENDIX. ^efufrlr los rigores de callado No cabe en ejie peclio, aiinque porfio. De obedecerte, Anarda^ defconfio, Muero de confujion de/efperado, Ni quieres que fea tuyo mi cuidado, Ni dejas que yo tenga mi alvedrio. Mas ya tanto la pena me maltrata ^e vence al fufrimiento j ya no ejpero Vivir alegre : el lla?itofe defata ; Y otra vez de la vida defefpero : Tuesji me quejo tu rigor me mata, Tfi callo mi ma I dos ijeces muero » " O let my forrow break filence, and ifliie loofe out of this *' breaft; fortofuffer the rigours of concealment this conftant " breaft can no longer bear. I fear I cannot obey thee, Anarda, " I die with defpairing confufion, and thou wilt not that my *' cares fhall become thine, nor wilt permit me to ufe my own " free-will. But thy troubles fo much ill-treat me, that they " vanquifh my fufFerings ; I no more hope to live happily ; I *' muft give way to my mourning ; I again defpair of life ; be- *' caufe if I complain, thy rigour kills me, and if I conceal my " pain I die twice." In 1772, Don Jofeph Vafquez publiflied two fmall books, entitled hos Erudites a la Violeta, which implies the Violet Lite- rati, for the ufe of thofe who pretend to know much, and ftudy little.. APPENDIX. 423 little. Thefe books contain the moft celebrated paflages of fe- veral ancient and modern authors in various languages, with a Spanifh tranflation of every one of them, together with com- mon-place remarks, to enable thofe who know nothing of the matter to talk learnedly upon fubjeds they do not underftand. The two firft pages of Paradife Loji^ are quoted and tranflated in this work. The whole is an ingenious fatire, and if tranflat- ed might poffibly be acceptable to Englifli JeJJhmhie Literati. The fame author fhortly after publifhed a volume of lyric poems, entitled Ocios de mi "Juventud., or ProdiiBions of my youthful leifure Hours, Of thefe I fhall infert a fpecimen. Satyrical Verfes, In ^evedo\ ftyle. ^e de la viiida un gemido Por la muerte del maridoy ya lo veo : Pero que ella nofe ria -Si otrofe ofrece en el din, no lo creo. ^e Claris me diga a mit ■Solo he de quererte a ti, ya lo veo .• Pero que, fiqiiiera., a ciento ■No haga el mifmo cumplimiento^ fto lo creo. ^e los maridos zelofos Sean mas guardias, que efpofos^ ya lo veo : Pero que ejlan las malvadas For mas guardias mas guardadas, no lo creo. ^e al ver de la hoda el trage. La doncdla el roftro baxe^ ya lo veo : Pero 424 APPENDIX. Pero que al mlfmo momenta No levante el pcnfamiento, no lo creo. ^te Celia tome el marido For Jus padres efcogidoy ya lo "ceo : Pero que en el mifmo injlante 'Ella no efcoja el ainante, no lo creo. ^uefe ponga con primor Flora en el pec ho una for ^ ya lo veo : Pero que ajlucia nofea Para que otra Jlor fe vea, no lo creo. ^e en el templo de Cupido ■ El incienjb es permit ido, ya lo veo : Pero que el incietifo bajle Sin que algun orofe gajle^ no lo creo. . ^ue el marido aj'u muger Permita todo placer, ya lo veo : Pero que tan ciegofea, ^e lo que vemos no vea, no lo creo. . §ue al marido de fu madre Todo nino llame padre, ya lo veo : Pero que elpor mas carina Pueda llamar hijo al nino^ no lo creo. Slue ^evedo crittcb Con masfatyra que yo, ya lo veo : Pero que mi mufa calk, P or que mas materia no halle, no lo creo. That' APPENDIX. 425 •' That the widow groans for the lofs of her hufband, I fee; ■*' but that (he would not laugh if another offered on the fame " day, I do not believe. " That Chloris tells me, that flie loves only me, I fee ; but *' that fhe would not, if necelfary, pay the fame compliment to ** a hundred others, 1 do not believe. " That jealous hufbands are more guardians than fpoufes, I " fee ; but that their wives are the more virtuous becaufc they *' are guarded, I do not believe. " That the damfel fhould caft her eyes down, and be bafliful *' when the preparations are making for her wedding, I fee ; " but that at the fame time fhe does not raife her thoughts, I do " not believe. *' That Celia fhould accept the hufband chofen for her by her " parents, I fee ; but that at the fame inftant, fhe does not chufe ■ " a lover, I do not believe. « That Flora places a beautiful flower in her breafl, I fee ; " but that it be not artfully to fhow another flower, I do not *' believe. " That in the temple of Cupid, incenfe is permitted, I fee; " but that incenfe is fufEclent, without fpending any gold, I do " not believe. ♦« That the hufband permits his wife to partake of all diver- *' fions, I fee ; but that he fhould be fo blind as not to fee what *< we fee, I do not believe. " That the child fhould call its mother's hufband father, I « fee ; but that he can always call the child his own, I do not " believe. ,. rp, ,. I i i " That 426 APPENDIX. " That Quevedo criticlfed more fatyrically than I do, I be- *• lieve ; but that my mufe is filent for want of more matter, I " do not believe." EPITAPH. El que ejia aquifepultado, For que no logro cafarfe, Murio de pena acabado. Otros mueren de acordarfe De que ya los han cafado. " He who here lies buried, died for grief becaufe he was not' " fortunate enough to be married ; others die for forrow that " they are married." I purchafed a fmall book in Madrid, which had juft been publifhed, entitled Los Literates en ^larejma. An affembly of learned men are fuppofed to meet together every Sunday during the fix weeks in Lent, and to pronounce a difcourfe, or fermon, of which the text is to be taken from fome celebrated author. Accordingly fix fubjeS5' Horfes, 253. Julian, St. caftle of, 14. I.defcnfo, St. 86. Ifland of Santa Pola, 218. jo7-ge Juan, Don, 220. InqLiifuion, 33. Irilh nunnery at Be/km, 32. college at Salamanca, 58. regiments, three. 226. Italian opera at Lifbon, 2. Bc'llem, 10, Oporto, 48. Ceuta, 274. • Cadiz, 281. Ladi les. :>'■* D Itinerary, 338. K King of Portugal, i u • Spain, 167. Knighthood, orders of, in Portu- gal, 23. Spain, 177. female, 62. Kermes, trees which produce the, 264. Lifion^ I. Leyria, 45. Lorca, 227. La TJla, 300. .3i3'.324- Liquorice, 312. Larks, 63. Lufiad, poem, 37 q. Liquefadion of blood, 6, 62, 144, 282, IS- M Mafra, 1 3 J- Madrid, 139. Mejorada, 169. Morviedro, 207. Murcia, 220. Malaga, 21(9. Miihcurs, St. cave, 270. May, Mrs. 9. Monkies at Gibraltar, 273. Madder plants, 158. Model oi Gibraltar, 273, Marbles, 237. Moorifli palace, 240. caflles, 39, 195, 216, &rc, Mefquita, in Cordova, 23 1 . Mills, 32, 84, 306. A'Jaeftranzas, Ibcicties, 238. Mofaic at l.^ifbon, 3. Madrid, 1 :; 1 . Menagerie at lieilem, 13. Mufic, 9. Man burnt alive, ^4. Mint at Sego\ ia, 84. Manufactory of fword-bludes, 1S6. plate-glafs, 87. knives, 195. Mountains, Sierra Nevada, 231. AlpHxarra, ibid . Sierra de Ejlrdla, 52. — ^^ Sierra Moroia, 230. N Naples, annunl miracle at, 174. Navy of Portugd, 22. F ]i p 2 Navy N X. Navy bf Spain, 225. Navigation of rivers, 29^ O Odive'as; convent of, 36.. Opcric, 48. Olmeuo, 71. Oca-rta, 192. Operas, fee Italian^. Orders, fee Knighthood.. Old clothes, 84.^ Orange-tree, 50. Obfervatory in CadiZy 283. Porto, 48. Portuguefe, theatres 2,. 48.. royal family, 1 1. — coins, 24. hirtory, 347. books, 375, 452- Produdtion of Portugal,. 28. Spair, 256, 334. Population of L//Z'(7W, 26. — Spain, 336. Port St. Mary, 2S8, 315- Port Royal, 316.. Pardc, the, 169. Pruning of trees, 30.. Pigeon-houfes, 41.. Pantheon, io8. Pafs of Guadarama, 98.. Plot of a comedy, 160. an interlude, 1 64. Purgatory, 173, 328. Prayers for drowned perfons, 314. at z Lao, 316. Penitent hdies, 324.. Palaces, at Be Hem, iz^ Caluz, 2 1 . Val'adoltd, 67. Segovia, 83. St. lldefonfo, 86. new ditto, 97.. the Efcorial, 98. Madrid, 140. el Par do, 169. el Buen retire, 151.. Toledo, 184. . Aranjuez, 189. Granada, 240. ditto Aihambra, ibid. ■ Scvilia, 307. Pid:ures at L//2'o«, 12. Caluz, 2 1 . Salamanca, 58. Valladolid, 66. St. Udefonfo, 190. • the Efcorial, 111. , Madrid, 143. el Buen- re tiro, 151.- — Loeches, 171. Lorca, 227. Granada, 237. Malaga, 260 Cadiz, 282. Sevilla, 308. Port St. Mary ■ • Port Royal, 315- 317- R Ronda, 265. Roque, cape, 14. San, 267. Rabbit-warren, 41. K.oads, dangerous, 263, &c. &c., itinerary of the, 338. Reliques, 105, 202. Ra'ns,. I N D X. Rains, heavy, 35. Raifins, 334. Spanijh books, 386. Sea-voyage, 336. Salamanca, 58. Simanca, 65. Segovia, 72. Sax, 216. Sevilla, 301. St. Jnthony, 31. — Raphael, 250. — Cecilia, 9. — Roque, 267. — Pola, 218. — Julian, 14. — Michael, 270. — Philip, 198. — Ildefonfo, 86. Santiago, female knights of, 62. Saints, Venetian, 326. Stones in ftrange pofitions, 55- Storks, 57. Scotch college, 66. Sheep, management of, 72 Silk-worms, 199. Statues at Bellem, 13. St. Ildefoi^fo, 92. Souls delivered, 173,. 328. Soldiers, hired, 228. Shells, large, 321. Snakc-ftone, 321. Salmon, 5. Spaiti, hiftory of, 355. . royal family of, 167..- population of, 336. Spanifi theatre at Madrid, 159.. , Cadiz, 280. Sevilla, 305. army, 226. navy, 225:. Toro, 64. Tordejillas, 65. To'edo, 180. Tobofo, el, 1 94. Tetuan, 275. Toads, 319. Tumble-dung beetle, 247. Thunny-fifli, 335. Tobacco prohibited, 31. fabric, 306. Travelling, method of, 37, 196* Trade to America, 282. wine, 50. Tower at Sevilla, 314. fhaking, 313. topfyturvy, 314.- Towers, watch, 313. Valkdolid, 65. Valencia, 200. Venta, a, defcribcd, 39. Virgin Mary, 239, 244. Voyage at fea, 336. Oil a river, 314. Venetian (^m\.s, 326. Ulloa, Dan Antonio de, 312. W Women and hogs, 286=. Water-nymphs, 286. Wind-mills, 3^2. Wheeli. I N Wheels to ralfe water, 329. Wine trade at Oporto, 5a. Xerez, 299. Wild-boars, 187. Wolves, 256. X Xativa, 198. D E X. Xerez Se la Fronleroy 299. Zamora, 63. Zebras, 13. N s. Page 14.. line 6. for erafed, r^a