TRAVELS 
 
 THROUGH 
 
 O R T U G A L AND SPAIN, 
 
 In* 1772 AND 1773.
 
 €ntcreb iu tfft ^alU^ook of tfft Company of ^tationetier.
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 THROUGH 
 
 PORTUGAL and SPAIN, 
 
 I N 1772 AND 1773* 
 
 B Y 
 
 / 
 
 RICHARD TWISS, Esq. F. R. S. 
 WITH COPPER-PLATES; 
 
 AND 
 
 AN APPENDIX. 
 
 he pueflo en la certidumbre de lo que refiero mi principal cuidado. 
 
 Pref. a la Hift. de Mexico, dc Soli*. 
 
 LONDON, 
 
 Printed for the AUTHOR, 
 And Sold by G. ROBINSON, T. BECKET, and J. ROBS ON. 
 
 MDCCLXXV.
 
 P R E F A C E. 
 
 Una de las cofas en que fe vee la grandeza del animo del homhre, y 
 la parte mortal adonde afpiray es el no hallarfe contento, ni fatufecho 
 en un lugar, procurando hartar fit defeo, inclinado a diverjidad de cofas^ rode- 
 ando el mundo^ y tentando diferentes lugares para bur tar el cuerpo a los jafiti- 
 dies de la vida. Difc. prelim, a la Araucana. 
 
 The meaning of which is, " Nothing perhaps more evidently proves 
 *' the greatnefs of the mind of man, and the immortality to which it 
 *' afpires, than not finding ourfeives contented or fatisfied in one place, 
 ■" but procuring the gratification of our defires, which are inclined to a 
 " diverfity of objedts, by rambling about the world, and vifiting difFer- 
 ■*' ent places, to fteal (as it were) ourfeives from the cares of life." 
 
 AFTER having fpent feveral years in travelling 
 through England, Scotland, Holland, Flanders, 
 France, Switzerland, Italy, Germany, Bohemia, &c. 
 the love of variety, or curiolity of feeing new things, 
 ov'as ftill fo prevalent, that I determined to vifit Spain 
 -and Portugal ; and I was the more eager, as I had 
 -^never feen any fatisfadlory account of thole two king- 
 doms, 
 
 T 
 
 1059720
 
 ii PREFACE. 
 
 doms, promifing to myfelf the enjoyment of objects 
 entirely novel, in countries which were imagined to be 
 far behind the reft of Europe in arts and literature. 
 The following fl^ieets contain the obfervations made in 
 that tour ; they are publifhed as my firft attempt, and 
 the ftridleft truth has been inviolably adhered to 
 throughout the whole work.. 
 
 In regard to the few levities upon the fubjed of fu- 
 perftition, I have not endeavoured to ridicule the per- 
 fons believing, but the objeds of their belief- for we 
 cannot with reafon condemn mankind for differing in 
 their opinions : we all feek for truth, but God only 
 knows who has found it. 
 
 If thofe parts of the work relative to painting be 
 thought too prolix, all I have to offer in excufe is my 
 attachment to that fcience. Almoft all the plates v/ere 
 executed after my own fketches ; and I have feledled 
 fuchfubjedls as have never before been publifhed. 
 
 I cannot conclude this preflice with more propriety 
 than with the following quotation from the beft book 
 
 that
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 Ill 
 
 that exifts in the Spanifh language : " Es grandidmo el 
 <' riefgo a que fe pone el que imprime un libro, fiendo 
 *' de toda impofibilidad impofible componerle tal que 
 *' fatisfaga y contente a todos los que le leyeren." 
 
 Don Quixote, torn. iii. cap. Iv. 
 
 Great RufTel -Street, Bloomfbury, 
 March 26, 1775. 
 
 DE-
 
 DESCRIPTION of thePLA T E S, 
 
 TO face the title. A Map of Spain and Portugal. In this map the 
 provinces have their proper titles and boundaries, the names are , 
 rightly fpelt, the latitude and longitude (from London) of thofe cities, 
 where aftronomical obfervations have been made, are exaft : no names 
 are infertcd but fuch as belong to fome remarkable city, town, village, 
 cape, mountain, or river. The places are marked where the cities of 
 Numancia, Saguntum, Illiberia, and Italica exifted. My route is traced 
 with parallel lines. The ornamental part reprefents a ftiield with the 
 arms of Portugal, wind-mills, &c. 
 
 P. 38. The fecond plate contains views of three of the moft remark- 
 able Moorifh caftles : that of Alcobafa'm Portugal, and thofe of Almanfa 
 and Sax, with a profpeft of the town of Ronda in Spain. 
 
 P. 82. The third plate reprefents the aquedudt of Segovia (engraven 
 from a large print which I procured at Madrid.) 
 
 P. 112. The fourth is a copy of the pi(flure known by the name of 
 our Lady of the Fijh, which is preferved in the Efcorial. 
 
 P. 156. The fifth contains the notes of the Fandango, or national , 
 dance. 
 
 P. 240. The fixth plate is a profpedt of the Alhamhrii, or palace of 
 the ancient Mooiifli kings in Granada. At one corner of the plate are 
 two infcriptions faid to be Phoenician, and three in Arabic (one of 
 which is on a round tile), all copied from thofe in this palace ; and 
 three capitals of columns, according to the Moorifh architecture ; the 
 laft column reprefents one of thofe which are in the Mefquita at Cordova. 
 At the other corner is one of the gate-ways of the Albambra, 
 
 P. 288. The fevcnth is the reprefentation of a bull-fight in the amphi- 
 theatre of Cadiz, and fhews all the principal aflions of the bulls and 
 combatants. 
 
 The tail-piece reprefents the arms of Spain. . 

 
 TRAVELS 
 
 THROUGH 
 
 PORTUGAL AND SPAIN. 
 
 AFTER having waited eighteen days at Falmouth for a 
 favourable wind, 1 embarked on board one of the 
 packets, on the 12th of November, 1772, at four in the after- 
 noon; and, on the 17th, early in the morning, we faw the 
 Rock ; at one in the afternoon anchored in the Tagus, and land- 
 ed at Lifbon at fix in the evening. This fpeedy pafTage made 
 amends for the tedious delay inTalmouth. 
 
 On landing, I was conducted to an Englifh inn, kept by one 
 De War, on the hill of Buenos Ayres, where there is an or- 
 dinary every day, frequented by E-nglifhmen, who refide in 
 Lifbon for their health, and by members of the faftbry. 
 
 Lifbon is pretty nearly in the fame ruinous flate it was the day 
 after the earthquake in ly^^' Indeed there are many new build- 
 
 B ings
 
 2 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 Ings carrying on, but the Ilreets are yet in various places flopped 
 up by the ruins occafioned by that devaftation; which recalled to 
 my mind the fimilar fituation in which Ihadfeen thecity of Dref- 
 den, caufed by war and fire. This city is built on feven fteep hills^ 
 and the flreets are very badly paved with fmall fharp ftones, 
 which renders walking almoft impradllcable ; and at night, as 
 there is no kind of light in thofe flreets, it would not be 
 prudent for a flranger to walk about alone. A few days after 
 my arrival, an Italian was murdered and robbed among fome 
 of the ruins. 
 
 About one fifth of the inhabitants of Lifbon confifts of blacks*, 
 mulattoes, or of fome intermediate tint of black and white. 
 
 The houfes are generally two florles high, fometimes three^. 
 
 with no other chimney but that of the kitchen ; they are built 
 
 of a kind of half marble *, with iron balconies, and wooden 
 
 lattices to the ground floor, but are not remarkable for archi- 
 tecture. 
 
 Here is a theatre for Italian operas ; la Slgnora Anna Zam- 
 perini, who was fome time in London, and whom I had before 
 known in Turin, was the chief finger in the comic opera, and 
 appeared daily on the flage, ornamented with three or four thou— 
 fand pounds worth of jewels. 
 
 * Prefque Marbre. 
 
 The
 
 PORTUGAL. 3 
 
 The other theatre is for Portuguefe plays ; there are four rows 
 of boxes, twenty-feven boxes in each row. The ItaHan houfe is 
 nearly of the fame fize. I faw the tragedy of Dona Ignes de 
 Caftro aded, with a farce called O Nao, or the Dwarf. The 
 feats in the pit are appropriated folely to the men. The admit- 
 tance money to the opera is a crufado novo, or two fliillings and 
 eight pence half-penny. 
 
 There are two long rooms, where the Britifh factory afiemble 
 twice a week, during the winter, to dance and play at cards. 
 The minuets compofed by Don Pedro Antonio Avondano, who 
 lives here, are much efteemed. Any Britifh ftranger who does not 
 intend to refide fix months in Lifbon is admitted gratis to thefe af- 
 femblies ; but the fubfcription for the inhabitants is feven moidores 
 for each room. I am informed that fince my departure both 
 thefe focieties are united, and that a very large room is built for 
 that purpofe. During the courfe of the winter there are four 
 grand balls, with fuppers; to which many of the Portuguefe 
 nobility are invited. 
 
 Immediately after my arrival I waited on his excellency the 
 honourable Mr. Walpole, his majefty's envoy extraordinary to the 
 Portuguefe court. I am happy in thus publicly acknowledging 
 the very great politenefs and kindnefs which I experienced from 
 this gentleman, who does honour to his flation, and every 
 obliging fervice in his power to all. I had the pleafure of being 
 
 B 2 prefent
 
 4 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 prefent at feveral magnificent entertainments he gave to the fac- 
 tory during my ftay in Lifbon. 
 
 In the church of St. Rocco, is a chapel with three pieces in 
 mofaic, made at Rome. The akar-piece reprefents the Baptifm by 
 St. John, in which are feven figures as large as the life : on one 
 fide is the Annunciation, which of courfe confifts of only two 
 figures, and on the other fide the Gift of Tongues. The pave- 
 ment of this chapel is likewife in mofaic, being a fphere, which 
 is the arms of the Brafils. The altar itfelf is of filver, with 
 figures in alto relievo. 
 
 On and about the fpot where the royal palace flood, before 
 it was demolifhed by the earthquake, there are many new ftreets 
 building, interfering each other at right angles, parallel and 
 ftraight, efpecially that called the Rua Augufta. On each fide 
 of thefe new ftreets is a foot-path, elevated fomewhat above the 
 pavement, and defended from carriages by ftone pofts. The 
 houfes are four and five ftories in height. The exchange is 
 finifhed, and is near the river, with porticos, under which the 
 merchants affemble. This building forms one fide of an 
 intended fquare, in the midfl: of which is to be placed an equef- 
 trian ftatue of the prefent king. The pedeftal is, as I was told, 
 of a fmgle ftone, that required eighty yoke of oxen to drag it 
 from the quarry, about ivfo miles from the fpot where it 
 now is. 
 
 The
 
 PORTUGAL. ^ 
 
 The arfenal is a very large building, though not quite finifhed. 
 Slaves are employed in carrying the ftones, morter, &c. They 
 are condemned criminals, and are chained by the leg in pairs. 
 
 Near the arfenal is the fifh-market, which is a very commo- 
 dious one, even fuperior to thofe in Holland. It is plentifully 
 fupplied with fifh, moll of them unknown in England; but 
 with neither falmon nor cod : the former of which, however, the 
 inhabitants procure from Oporto, by men employed for the pur- 
 pofe, who perform the journey in four days on foot, taking the 
 fhorteft route, without regarding the common roads, and deliver 
 each fifh at Lifbon for a moidore. The John dory is to be met with 
 larger here than any on the weftern coafl: of England ; as, like- 
 wife, are red mullets. I faw fome very large conger eels, and 
 a fcate that meafured near feven feet from the head to the 
 extremity of the tail. Near this market, are ahb fold 
 vegetables, fruits, tortoifes, monkies, parrots, and Brafil 
 birds. 
 
 As in a late publication of a journey through Portugal, the 
 author has inadvertently erred in the account of his fearch after 
 the weflern Lifbon, I fhall here quote a paffage from a book 
 printed at Amftcrdam in 1730, in French, entitled, a Defcrip- 
 tioii of Lifbon. 
 
 "' Lifbon was divided, about the year 1716, in two, under the 
 «■*- names of the Oriental part, and Occidental part. This divificn 
 
 " was
 
 6 TRAVELSTH ROUGH 
 
 ^* was made on occafion of the creation of the patriarch, whofe 
 *' diocefe confifts of the occidental part, and the archbifhop 
 ■*' has retained the oriental. Since this partition, the inhabi- 
 " tants are obliged, under pain of nullity, to exprefs in all aits 
 *' the part of the town in which they have paffed ; exa£l 
 " merchants alio diftinguifti it in their bills of exchange, and 
 *' in their letters." 
 
 There has never yet been a plan of Lifbon publifhed. But 
 four very finely engraved views of Lifbon and Bellem, were 
 publifhed in London in 1756, by George Hawkins, on as many 
 large fheets. 
 
 The new books which defcrlbe Portugal are the following: 
 
 Mappa de Portugal Antigo e Moderno^ in three volumes, 
 fmall quarto, written by Father de Caftro, in Portuguefe, and 
 printed at Lifbon in 1762. At the end is a table of the roads, 
 with the diftances from place to place. 
 
 In 1762, Don Pedro Rodriguez Campomanes, wrote a book 
 in Spanifh, in one volume odavo, which he dedicated to 
 Mr. Wall, entitled, Noticia Geografica del Reyno y Caminos de 
 Portugal. 
 
 I have alio a thin folio, written by Father do Prado, and 
 printed at Lifbon in 1751, containing a defcription of the 
 
 Royal
 
 PORTUGAL. 7 
 
 Royal Convent near Mafra, illuftrated with an elevation and 
 two plans. This book treats chiefly of the ceremony of 
 blefling the relics, and of the confecration of the church 
 and altars, with a lift of the ornaments, plate, and veftments 
 there made ufe of; in fhort, of every thing one does not defire 
 to know. 
 
 There is no news-paper or gazette In the Portuguefe language : 
 they were prohibited in 1763. The Englifh, French, and 
 Spanifh papers are in the cofFee-houfes, of which two are ex~ 
 tremely elegant, efpecially that of Cafaco, which is pannelled 
 with looking-glafles. 
 
 The country about LIfbon Is agreeably diverfified with groves 
 of orange and lemon trees, intermixed with olive and vine-yards. 
 The roads are bordered with aloes, which make an uncommon 
 appearance to a native of a colder climate when they are in flower, 
 the ftem being then twelve or fourteen feet in height. Thefe 
 aloes blow the fixth or feventh year. What Mr. Brydone fays of 
 thofe of Sicily, is likewife juft in refpe£t to thefe. " As the whole 
 *' fubftance of the plant Is carried into the ftem and flowers, the 
 '* leaves begin to decay as foon as the blow Is completed, and 
 *' numerous young plants are produced round the root of the 
 " old ones," which wither and die*. 
 
 Moft of the roads in the environs are paved with large ftones. 
 Near the city, in the valley of Alcantara, is fituatedthe celebrated 
 
 aquedu 
 
 -^Ci
 
 8 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 aqucdudl which joins two hills ; the arches in this part are thir- 
 ty-five in number, fourteen large ones, and twenty- one fmaller, 
 the largeft of which is three hundred and thirty-two feet in height, 
 and two hundred and forty-nine feet in width ; fo that St. Paul's 
 church in London is only feventy-two feet higher. There arc 
 ten fmaller arches nearer to the city, and many ftill fmaller near 
 the fource of the water which fupplies this aquedu£l. This wa- 
 ter is emptied into a great refervoir at one of the extremities 
 ofLifbon. The whole pile was eredled in 174S; and happily 
 received no damage from the earthquake in 1755. It is built of 
 a kind of white marble. The pillars which fupport the arches 
 arc fquare, the largefl; meafure thirty-three feet at each fide of 
 the bafe ; fo that the breadth of this aqueduft is but a tenth part 
 of its height, and confequently makes that height appear much 
 more confiderable than it really is to a fpedator who flands un- 
 der the great arch*. 
 
 The patriarchal church flands on the top of one of the feven 
 hills on which Lifbon is built j the great altar is placed under the 
 dome, and has a baldachino, or canopy ' over it, fupported by 
 four fpirally twilled columns of wood gilt, like that in St. Peter's 
 at Rome. There is a very large organ with horizontal pipes in 
 this church. Indeed all the organs 1 afterwards faw in this penin- 
 fula (as the natives call Portugal and Spain) are built in the 
 fixme manner. 
 
 * In 1750, T. Bowles publiflied a view of this aqucdud^. 
 
 The
 
 POrvTUGAL. 9 
 
 The 26th of November, being St. Cecilia's day, I went in 
 the morning to the church of St. Rocco, to hear the mufical 
 fun^do^ which lafted three hours. The mufic performed was of 
 JomelH's compofition, and the band was placed as follows. 
 
 The organ over the church door ; and in the organ-gallery 
 were ten eunuchs from the king's chapel : on one fide were 
 fixteen violins, fix baffes, three double bafTes, four tenors, two 
 hautboys, a French horn, and a trumpet; and underneath them, 
 about fixty voices for the chorufles ; and, on the other fide, were 
 the fame number of vocal and inftrumental performers. The 
 firft violin was played by Mr. Groeneman, a German, who was 
 engaged to go with lord Clive to the Eafl Indies fome time ago, 
 but left him at tlie Brafils, and came to LilLon, where he now 
 is firft violin to the king. The whole concert was under the 
 direction of the celebrated Mr. David Perez ; fome of whofe 
 compofitions have been lately publifhed in London. The church 
 was extremely crowded by perfons of each fex. High mafs was 
 celebrated ; during which the women remained fquatted on 
 the ground, having all white mullin veils, and black flk 
 cloaks. 
 
 As I am on the fubje£l of mufic, I muft mention the talents 
 on the harpfichord of the lady of Mr. May, an Englifh merchant 
 here. This lady equals any performer I ever heard on that 
 inftrument, for the rapidity of execution, and the delicacy and 
 taile with v/hich ihe plays the raoft difficult pieces : (he is 
 
 C likewife
 
 lo TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 likewlfe well verfed in the theory of mufic. The harpfichord 
 under her hands, was literally 
 
 " By flying fingers touchM into a voice.'* 
 
 I had likewife the pleafure of hearing Mr. Rodill, a Spaniard, 
 whofe fkill on the German flute and hautboy is now well known 
 in London. I alfo heard a Portuguefe young lady's performance 
 on the mufical glafles, which were empty, but her fingers were 
 occafionally dipped in water. 
 
 I went on the 17th of November to the king's palace at Bellem, 
 about five miles from Lllbon, and heard the Italian opera of 
 Ezio performed there. The orcheflra confided of very accurate 
 players. No ladies are ever admitted to this opera, neither are 
 there any ailrefl'es ; but, inftead of women, they have eunuchs 
 dreffed exactly as women are ; fo that, from the fl:age, they ap- 
 pear to be really what they reprefent. But the dancing be- 
 tween the ads being likewife by men with great black beards 
 and broad fhoulders, drefied in female apparel, was a difgufting 
 fight. Thejealoufy of the queen is faid to be the caufe of this, 
 uncommon exhibition. 
 
 Many of the priefls here are eunuchs. Miflon, who travelled 
 in Italy in 1688, and there faw two priefis of the fame kind, 
 gives the following account of them, which being tranflated,. 
 runs thus : " You know that a prieft mufl: be a complete man : 
 " it is a law without any exception. However, as it has been re-- 
 
 " marked,,
 
 PORTUGAL. 
 
 II 
 
 *' marked, that that perfedlion of the body fometimes caufes a 
 " difagreeable voice; and that, on the other hand, fweetnefs 
 *' of voice is very neceflary to infinuate things into the mind, 
 *' whether at church or at the opera, there has been found 
 " a means of conciliating thefe difficuhies; and it has been re- 
 " folved, that a priefl cut out for mufic, may exercife the facer- 
 *' dotal fundtions, provided he has his neceffities, or, if you 
 *' pleafe, fuperfluities, in his pocket." 
 
 This theatre is fmall, and without any fide-boxes ; in the pit 
 are ten benches without backs, behind which is the king's box. 
 All the royal family were prefent that evening. The king him- 
 felf, Don Jofeph I. is a well looking man, and is now (in 1772) 
 fifty-eight years of age. The queen is fifty-four years. The 
 king's brother, Don Pedro, who is fifty-five years old, married his 
 raajefty's eldeft daughter, who has the title of princefs of Brafil, 
 and is thirty-eight. They have a ion of eleven years, who is 
 heir-apparent to the crown of Portugal, his title is prince of 
 Beira ; and another fon and daughter. The king's other two 
 ■daughters, the infantas Dona Maria Anna of thirty-fix, and 
 Dona Maria Francifca Bencdidla, of twenty-fix years, were alio 
 there, as that day was the anniverfary of the birth of the prin- 
 cefs of Brafil. 
 
 Thefe ladies were without caps, neither were they painted, 
 but were ornamented with a great number of jewels. The opera 
 be^an at feven, and ended at ten, and during the whole per- 
 
 C 2 formance
 
 12 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 formance the moft ftrid filence was obfcrved by the audience ;• 
 who between the adls role and flood with their faces towards the- 
 royal family. 
 
 The cardinal-patriarch fat in a fmall box appropriated to him- 
 on the right hand of the king's box. 
 
 Any well dreffed men are admitted gratis to this fpedlacle.. 
 
 The palace of Bellem Is a very mean wooden edifice, and has 
 nothing worthy of remark neither on the outfide nor in the .in- 
 fide. There is not fo much as a fmgle pidlure from any of the 
 Italian fchools in the whole kingdom of Portugal. What few 
 pldures there were formerly in Lilbon, were deftroyed by the 
 earthquake.. 
 
 At the houfe of Meflrs. Purry and De Vifmes, is a picture 
 painted by Van Loo, reprefenting the marquis of Pombal (who 
 is prime minifter) fitting, of the natural fize, at a table covered 
 with plans and elevations of buildings intended for Lifbon. The 
 back ground fhows the Tagus down to Bellem, with fhips, ia 
 which Jefuits are embarking, and is' painted by Vernet; the 
 whole piece was executed in Paris two or three years ago. The 
 proprietors have caufed a very fine copper-plate of it to be en- 
 graven; and this is the only pi<^ure I ever. heard of at LifDon, . 
 worth any notice. 
 
 Neither.-
 
 PORTUGAL. 13 
 
 ' Neither have I been able to find any ftatues in Portugal, ex- 
 aept two groupes in the royal garden at Bellem, expofed to the 
 air very injudicioufly ; I could get no information about the 
 name of the ftatuary, but was told they were fent from Rome : 
 probably they are by il Cavalier Bernini, or perhaps by Algardr, 
 being equal to any of the ftatues I faw at Rome of thofe two 
 great fculptors. Thefe groups are of two figures each, as large 
 as the life, and of white marble. One is the daughter giving 
 fuck to her father, and the other is a woman fainting and reclin- 
 ing within the arms of another woman. Thefe flatues 
 
 " feemed to breathe, 
 " And foften into flefli beneath the touch 
 " Of forming art, imagination flufli'd." Thomson. 
 
 They are indeed perfectly beautiful, and hitherto in good prei 
 fervation ; pofiibly in fuch a fine climate as this is, they may re- 
 main unhurt for ages; as the Farnefian Hercules, the Perfius of 
 Cellini, and many other invaluable ftatues, both at Rome and at 
 Florence, have done. 
 
 In this garden 1 faw a very large elephant, being no lefs than 
 twenty-two feet in height ; it is kept in a yard, partly covered, 
 and partly expofed to the air, and is viewed from the top of the 
 wall. The reft of the menagerie confifts of two lions, a leopard, 
 and ten fine zebras, or wild alTes ; thefe latter are in one ftable •: 
 feme of them were brought from Angola, the others are natives 
 of. this place. They can never be fuftlciently broke to endure- a. 
 
 bk(
 
 14 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 bit or a rein, though it was attempted, to enable fix of them to 
 draw the prince of Beira's chariot. 
 
 Near the palace of Bellem is a pillar ereded with an infcrip- 
 tion, importing that this is the fpot whereon the late duke of 
 Aveiro's palace flood ; he was executed for having fhot at the 
 king in 1759, and the palace was erafed. 
 
 The building of the church, of which the king laid the firft 
 done, on the fpot where his majefty was fliot at, is difcontinued ; 
 the walls are carried only to a few feet in height j indeed there 
 are churches enough already. 
 
 On the 6th of January, 1773, 1 rode on horfeback to the 
 caftle of St. Julian, at the mouth of the Tagus, about fifteen 
 miles from Lifbon. The road is paved the whole way, and ex- 
 tends along the banks of this noble river. The weather was 
 extremely fine and warm. To the left the grand view of the 
 fhips failing various ways, the caflle of Bellem, the caftle of St. 
 Julian, the immenfe rock called Cape Roquc, and at laft the 
 ocean ; and to the right, groves of orange and lemon trees loaden 
 with bloffoms as well as fruit, aloe and Indian fig-hedges, in- 
 terfpcrfed with convents, churches, and olive yards, with the 
 diftant prof^xd; of the oppofite fhore, contributed to render this 
 one of the moft agreeable rides I ever enjoyed. Unfortunately 
 there is no inn nor houfe of any kind to put up at, fo that I 
 left my horfe to the care of one of the foldiers, whilft I was ob- 
 
 ferving
 
 PORTUGAL. 15 
 
 ferving the caftle, and returned to Lifbon with a -keen appetite, 
 which [ imagine was likewife the cafe with my poor beaft, after 
 trotting thirty miles on a paved, rugged, and hilly road without 
 baiting. 
 
 The caftle of St. Julian Is an irregular pentagon, and is found- 
 ed on the folid rock, the bafe of which is waflied by the fea. It 
 is garrifoned with twothoufandand eighty men, as the officer w^ho 
 accompanied me informed me ; but I much doubt the truth of 
 this aflertion. It is planted with two hundred and five large brafs 
 cannon, one of which is eighteen feet in length, and was made 
 at Diu. Oppofite to this caftle is a fmaller one on an ifland, 
 which, together with St. Julian's defends the entrance of 
 this river. 
 
 Another excurfion which I made was to the royal convent and 
 palace of Mafra, about thirty miles from Liftjon. I fet out ear— 
 ly in the morning, with a fervant, in a two- wheeled chaife drawn 
 by a pair of mules : we ftopped about half way to refrefti our- 
 felves, for we all mefled together, mules, driver, fervant, and 
 felf, on provifions brought with us from Lifbon, as there was 
 nothing at all to be had in this hotel. The road thus far is 
 through a romantic country, producing orange, lemon, olive, 
 mulberry, cyprefs, and palm trees, hedges of wild pomegranate, 
 rofemary, jeffamines, aloes, prickly pear, bays, laurel, and 
 myrtle. The country is well cultivated. I obferved eight oxea 
 drawing^ one plough. Afterward the country " aflumes a,- 
 
 Highland:
 
 j6 TP. AVELS THROUGH 
 
 Highland appearance," and the inclofures are of loofe flones 
 piled on each other, as in Derbylhire. To the left is the view of 
 Cape Roque, and to the right the royal park, three leagues in 
 circumference, environed by a wall of fifteen feet in height. 
 The building itfelf is fituated near the fmall village of Mafra^ 
 and is conftrudled of a kind of white marble. It contains thirty- 
 fe%'en windows in front, and is nearly a fquare of feven hundred 
 and twenty-eight feet. The church is placed in the center of 
 this fabric, having the palace on one fide, and the convent on 
 the other. 
 
 There is a grand flight of flairs which projects one hundred 
 and fifty-two feet into the fquare before the building. Under 
 the portico, at the entrance, are twelve gigantic Italian marble 
 flatues of faints, of tolerable workmanfhip. That of St. Sebaftian 
 is extremely well executed. This portico is of two orders of 
 archite£lure, each of fix columns, the firfl ionic, the other com- 
 pofite. The ingrefs to the church is by five doors. 
 
 The architect of the whole fabric was a German, John Fre- 
 derics. It was begun during the reign of John V in 17 17, and 
 finiflied in i'3i. There are three hundred cells in the convent, 
 each of twenty palms, or feet, by eighteen; the kitchen is 
 ninety-fix palms by forty-two : the new library is three hun- 
 dred and eighty-one palms in length, and forty-three in breadth. 
 In the whole building the printed account allures, that there 
 are eight hundred and feventy rooms, and five thoufand two 
 
 hundred 
 
 4l
 
 PORTUGAL. 17 
 
 hundred windows. The floors are of bricks, nicely laid. The 
 palace is not furnifhed, as the king feldom refides here. Three 
 or four of the rooms have chimnies ; and the late duke of York 
 was lodged in thcfe apartments for a few days. 
 
 On each fide of the church is a tower, or belfry, having each 
 forty-eight bells, which form chimes, or w^hat the French call 
 carillon^ and the Spaniards organo de las campaigns. The afcent 
 to thefe towers is by one hundred and fixty-two fteps : and at 
 each end of xhQfai^ade.^ the three laft windows are decorated with 
 a fmall cupola. The church has a cupola of the Corinthian or- 
 der, w^th a gallery round the infide of it. There are fix altars, 
 over each of which is a marble baflb relievo ; and there are no 
 lefs than fix organs in this temple. Some few pahitings are dif- 
 perfed here, but they are only by obfcuie Italian maflers. The 
 whole building is covered with a flat roof, which forms an agree- 
 able terrace for walking. There are feveral handfome court- 
 yards with porticos ; and behind the edifice is a pretty large 
 garden. 
 
 The inn at Mafra is the beft I met with in Portugal, out of 
 Lifbon After having been to fee the chime- player, and examin- 
 ed his mttfical bricks^ which are nothing but xhejiaccaio paftorakt 
 I was agreeably entertained with feeing my landlord and land- 
 lady dance the fandango^ to the mufic of the guitar. The per- 
 fon who played on it ftruck merely a few chords in triple time, 
 and beat time with the fame hand on the belly of the inflrumenl, 
 
 D The 
 
 i^
 
 i8 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 The dance itfelf is for two perfons, and much Uke the DutcH 
 pliigge danfen. I imagine the Dutch, by having been fo long 
 under the Spanifh dominion, have retained this dance, as well; 
 as many other cuftoms. For inftance, the veils ; which are large 
 fquare pieces of black filk, that the women, when walking, 
 throw over their heads, and keep nearly clofed over their faces. 
 The Spanifh name is velo^ the Dutch call itfaly. The cuftom 
 of fmoking tobacco the inhabitants of the Netherlands have- 
 probably alfo derived from the Spaniards. The pronunciation 
 of the two languages in the harfli and guttural G, is exadly 
 the fame. 
 
 But to return to \}c^q fandango. Every part of the body is in- 
 motion, and is thrown into all poftures, frequently into very in- 
 decent ones. Stamping the time with the feet, and playing all 
 the while with the cajlanetas^ which are a kind of fmall fhells of 
 Ivory, or hard wood, of which two are rattled together in each 
 hand. When they have not thefe inftruments, they fnap with:, 
 their fingers and thumbs. The dancers approach, turn, retire,, 
 and approach again ; the man with his hat on. I afterwards faw 
 this dance to greater perfection on the ftage, to the muiic of the 
 whole orcheftra. It feems the tune is always identically the fame. 
 When thefe dancers were tired, and in a profufe fweat with the 
 violence of the exercile, their place was immediately fupplied 
 by another couple, as the room was by this time filled with 
 moft of the decent people of the village, who having danced in 
 their turns, I dilcUnrged the mufician, and pafled the remainder 
 
 of.
 
 PORTUGAL. 19 
 
 of the evening in playing a rubber at whift with my landlady, her 
 hufband, and herTifter. I muft not omit, that before the danc- 
 ing I had for fuppcr an excellent roailed fowl with bacon and 
 fallad, yickXtd. fardinhas (a kind of fprats), with eggs, cheftnuts, 
 apples, and oranges ; and afterward flept comfortably on a 
 feather-bed. Thefe good accommodations are owing to the 
 member s of the Engliflh fadory making frequent excurfions to Ma^- 
 fra on parties of pleafure, during their fummer refidence at C:ntra, 
 
 The next day I returned to Lifbon by the fame road, fo weli 
 pleafed with this jaunt, that a few days after I made another to 
 Cintra on horfeback. The road is paved all the way from Lif- 
 bon, being about eighteen miles. I went to the Englifli inn, as 
 it is called, though kept by a Turinefe ; and it is a very good 
 one. I immediately mounted a jack-afs, of which numbers are 
 to be hired here, and after three quarters of an hour's continual 
 winding afcent, I found myfelf on the top of a high mountain, 
 called Cako de Penha ; on the fummit of which is a fmall con- 
 vent, which was at that time inhabited by eleven poor Jero- 
 nymite monks. I had no barometer to compute the height of 
 this mountain, neither could I get any information from thefe 
 ignorant wretches. This place is inacceffible but by the road the 
 burro * carried me. The profpedl is boundlefs, comprehending 
 the beautiful quintas (or country houfes) at the foot of the 
 mountain, the palace of Mafra at a great diftance, the expand- 
 -ed ocean, the Tagus, and the continent as far as the eye can carry. 
 
 * Jack-afs , «. 
 
 D 2 Udal
 
 20 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 Udal ap Rhys in his account of this place fays, " Here was 
 «< an ancient temple called Templuni Luna, and there being fome 
 ♦' fimilitude between the name Cintra and Cynthia, it is imagin« 
 " ed that the firft is only a corruption of the fecond," &c. He 
 farther fays, " The height and romantic form of this moun- 
 " tain, the prodigious breaks and cavities, and the vaft mafles 
 " of projedling and impending rocks, enriched with fhrubs, or 
 " ennobled by tall and luxuriant trees, render it one of the moft 
 *' furprifing and agreeable objeds in the world." And fo itcer-- 
 tainly is. 
 
 " Here Nature's quiet wonders fill the mind." 
 
 I defcended this mountain on foot near half way down, then- 
 mounted my afs, and was carried in an hour and a half to tha 
 adjacent mountain, called Cape Roque, or the Rock of Lifbon,, 
 which is the moft. weftern point of the European continent, and 
 bears latitude- 38° 45'. On the top of it is fituated a convent, 
 wherein, at that time, twenty-two monks lived. It is commonlv 
 called the Cork convent by the Englilh, this place being fo, 
 damp, that every part in it is covered with cork, which grows. 
 here in great abundance. Mr. Baretti has given an accurate de- 
 fcription of it. The hermits were as fociable as when he was 
 with them, " and helped us to our glafies very br-ifkly." I re- 
 mained with them till late in the evening and by moon-light re-, 
 turned in two hours to the inn at Cintra, being carried with the. 
 greateft fafety over loofe pieces of rock, and on the brink of pre-, 
 cipices and fteep defcents, by my afs, which was fo furc-footcd,, 
 
 th$ifc
 
 PORTUGAL. 
 
 2 1 
 
 ihat it never made a falfe flep. The cold this night was intenfe ; 
 it was on the loth of January, the moon was full, and not a 
 fingle cloud was to be feenj the fliallow waters were frozen, the 
 ice being near an inch in thicknefs, but it melted the next day 
 as foon as the fun had been a few hours above the horizon. 
 Mr. Baretti gives a Ihort account of the remains of the Moorifli 
 palace in Cintra, but I did not fee the infide of that building. 
 
 The next day, after two hours and a half riding on the road: 
 to Lifbon, I ftruck out about a mile to the right, to fee the 
 palace called Caluz, belonging to Don Pedro, the king's bro- 
 ther and fon-in- law. It is built of wood, and is two (lories 
 high,. The furniture is extremely elegant, and quite new, in 
 the French tafte. The audience faloon is floored with marble, 
 and pannelled with looking-glaffes. Seven very large china- 
 vafes are placed on each fide of it, 
 
 The concert-room is two hundred feet in length, and its ceil- 
 ing is very magnificent, being of white ftucco, with a profufian. 
 of gilding. 
 
 In one room, the hiftory of Don Quixote is reprefented in 
 eighteen compartments. In another, are various pieces, whim- 
 fically rcprcfenting young children quite naked, except fome. 
 ornament which they have got on. One of them has a bag to 
 bis hair,, and a fword girt about his naked loins, with a cane in 
 bis hand: he gallants his companion, who wears amufrand. 
 
 tippets,
 
 22 T "RAVELS THROUGH 
 
 tippet, and a pair of high-heeled fhoes ; her hair is powdered, flic 
 is decorated with a necklace and ear-rings, but is in other re- 
 fpe£ts naked. All thefe ludicrous pieces are intended only as 
 furniture, and as fuch, greatly enliven the apartments. 
 
 There is a large garden behind this palace, with a labyrinth, 
 and orange and lemon groves. After having refreflicd myfelf 
 with fome of thefe fruits, juft plucked from the trees, I re- 
 mounted my horfe, and returned to Llfbon, amply fatisfied 
 with what I had fcen. 
 
 Strolling one day about Liihon in fearch of new objeds, I was 
 witnefs to an uncommon fcene, which was of two men fitting 
 in the ftreet, having each of them a large baboon on his fhoul- 
 ders, freeing his head from vermin, with which it fwarmed. 
 The baboons were very dexterous, and are the property of a 
 man who gains his livelihood by thus employing them, exact- 
 ing a vinten^ or about three halfpence per head, for cleanfing 
 it. It is very common to fee numbers of people fitting in the 
 fun, with their heads in each other's laps alternately, having 
 their " retinue abridged. ' They feem indeed to be the loufieft 
 people I know of, efpecially the women, who have an enorm- 
 ous quantity of hair. This dirtinefs, however, is only to be im- 
 puted to the lower clafs of people. 
 
 I made enquiry about the ftate of the Portuguefe navy and 
 army, and was informed that the latter confifled of thirty-eight 
 
 regiments
 
 PORTUGAL. 23 
 
 regiments of foot, of eight hundred and twenty-one men each, 
 including officers ; and of twelve regiments of cavalry, of four 
 hundred horfe to each. The horfes are of different fizes and 
 colours, and make a very, uncouth appearance. The navy 
 confifts of eleven men of war, and four frigates. Four of 
 thefe veflels are commanded by Britifh captains ; in the army are 
 likewife a great number of Britifh officers, who are moflly pro- 
 teilants and Scotchmen. 
 
 The chief order of knighthood here, Is called the order of 
 Chrifi. It was inflituted by Denis their fixth king, in 1283. 
 This order Is given to almoft any one, provided he be a Roman 
 catholic, and is fo very common, that it is almofl a difgrace to 
 accept of it, though his Portuguefe majefly wears the injignia of 
 it himfelf. I have feen a valet de chambre, the keeper of a 
 billiard table, and a muficlan, decorated with thofe infignia ; 
 vrhich are, a ftar on the left breafl, and a fmall enamelled red 
 crofs, charged with another vA\\X& one, hanging by a ribbon at. 
 the button- hole. 
 
 The other order, Is that of v^'u/V, inftltuted In 1 147, byAl~ 
 fonfo, their firfl king. The knights wear a fmall enamelled 
 green crofs fleurie, at the button-hole. 
 
 Nobility is not hereditary in this kingdom ; the king con-- 
 fers the titles of earl, marquis, duke, &c. In the fame manner 
 as knighthood is conferred In England. Frequently the fon 
 
 has
 
 54 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 has a title, and the father none. The only duke at prefent, ex- 
 cepting the king's brother, who is duke of Braganza, is the 
 duke of Cadaval. 
 
 The Portuguefe money confifts of twelve golden coins, {even 
 filver, and three copper. Accompts are kept in reis, which 
 is an imaginary denomination. The par is 6y {d. fterling for a 
 thoufand reis : according to which the fterling value of their 
 coins is nearly as follows. 
 
 Gold Coins, 
 A five moidore piece, which is 24000 reis is >r. 6 15 o 
 
 A two and a half moidore piece 12000 3 7^ 
 
 A double Johannes - - 12800 3 12 o 
 
 Thefe three pieces were prohibited 
 being coined anew in 1732, by 
 king John V. 
 A Johannes, as it is commonly called, 6400 i 16 o 
 
 A half ditto - _ - - 3200 o 18 o 
 
 A quarter ditto - - - 1600 090 
 
 An eighth ditto -- - 8co 046 
 
 A moeda de ouro, which means literally 
 a coin of gold, and is commonly 
 called a moidore, 
 A half ditto - - - 
 
 A quarter ditto _ - - 
 
 A cruzado novo^ or new crown, 
 -jV of a Johannes, or an old crown. 
 
 4000 
 
 I 
 
 7 
 
 2400 
 
 
 
 13 6 
 
 1200 
 
 
 
 6 9 
 
 480 
 
 
 
 2 81 
 
 400 
 
 
 
 2 3 
 Moft
 
 
 s. 
 
 ^. 
 
 480 
 
 reis is 2 
 
 8'r 
 
 240 
 
 I 
 
 4V 
 
 I20 
 
 
 
 8r 
 
 6o 
 
 
 
 4t5 
 
 100 
 
 
 
 H 
 
 50 
 
 
 
 2't 
 
 PORTUGAL. 25 
 
 Moft of thefe coins are well known in England, as they were 
 there current till very lately. 
 
 The feven Silver Coins are, 
 A new crown of - - - - 
 A half ditto, or twelve vm/e?2s, which is 
 
 twelve times twenty reis 
 A quarter ditto, or fix vintens 
 An eighth ditto, or three 'vhitens 
 A tojldbt or teftoon - - - 
 
 A half ditto _ _ _ 
 
 A vinten. This is a Brafil coin, and is as 
 
 fcarce as our penny - - - 20 o ly 
 
 The copper coins are a piece of 10 reis, a piece of 5, and a 
 piece of 3 reis. The Portuguefe book, called Mappa de Por^ 
 tugal, mentions the exiflence of another fmall piece, half the 
 value of the laft mentioned coin, but they are fo fcarce that I was 
 not able to procure even the fight of one of them. 
 
 An EngliHi guinea paffes in Lifbon for 3600 reis, which is 
 134 reis, or nine pence, lefs than the value; a crown paffes for 
 8co reis, which is H9 reis, or fix pence, lefs ; and a fliilling for 
 160 reis, which is i8 reis, or five farthings, lefs than the v/orth. 
 Thus £.100 fterling is 355,556 reis, and jog, 000 reis is 
 j^. 28 2j. 6d. In cloth meafure, a vara is 43Mnches Englifli, 
 
 and a covedo is 26^- inches. 
 
 It
 
 26 TRAVELSTHROUGH 
 
 It is very difficult to afcertain the number of inhabitants ih' 
 Lifbon. The diflFerent foreign fadtories are not numbered with: 
 the natives. The Englifh fadlory alone is computed at fix hun- 
 dred fouls. The Dutch and German fadories confift alfo of a- 
 very great number of perfons. 
 
 In 1716, pope Clement XL declared, in a confiftory, that the 
 atteftations fent to him from Lifbon, afferted, that only the 
 weftern part of that city contained near three hundred thoufand 
 inhabitants. 
 
 The French book before mentioned; printed in 1730, gives 
 two hundred and fifty thouiand fouls for the number. 
 
 In 1739J Antonio de Oliveria Freire, in his Cliorographical De- 
 fcription of Portugal, attributes no lefs than eight hundred thou« 
 fand inhabitants to Lifbon. 
 
 In 1754, the atteftations fent to Rome, in order to procure 
 hulls^ afligned fix hundred thoufand inhabitants to the metropolis. 
 
 The earthquake, v\'hich happened the following year, is faid 
 by fome to have deftroyed fifteen thoufand perfons, by others, 
 twenty-four thoufand, and by others feventy thoufand ; indeed, 
 it is impofiTible to calculate this lofs exaQly, which, however 
 great, is at prefent not fenfibly perceived ; fo that I fliould ima- 
 gine, Lifbon may with propriety be clafled among the firft ratq 
 
 cities,
 
 PORTUGAL. 27 
 
 cities In Europe for fize and populoufnefs, and poffibly may be 
 ranked as the fourth, the other three being London, Paris, and 
 
 Naples. 
 
 The Englifli fadory has a burying-ground in one of the 
 fkirts of the city, planted with walks of cyprefs trees, under 
 w^hich are the graves, where I had the mortiiication to fee many 
 marble monuments with long, pompous, flattering infcriptlons, 
 creded to the memory of fome of the merchants, their wives, 
 and their children ; whilft the great author of Tom Jones is 
 here interred, without even a ftone to indicate, that " Here lies 
 " Henry Fielding" 
 
 The garden of the convent Tias NeceJJidades, immediately un- 
 der the hill of Buenos Ayres, is a very fine one, and is open to 
 the decent part of the public. The king's hot-houfes in his gar*- 
 den of Nojh Senhora de Ajuda^ or our Lady of Help, near Bel* 
 lem, are alfo well worth notice. The ceilings are very neatly 
 painted in frefco. The chief gardener is an Italian. In an- 
 other neighbouring royal garden is an exceeding large man- 
 drake tree. 
 
 The Portuguefe nobility Is divided into three claffes. When 
 
 the Ecuyer on horfeback rides before a carriage, the Lifbon 
 
 Etiquette denotes it to belong to the firft rank ; the Eaiyer\ 
 
 .riding on one fide fliows the fecond rank ; and when he rides 
 
 behind he belongs to the third clals of nobility. Mofl of the car- 
 
 E 2 riages
 
 28 I TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 riages are two-wheeled, though on gala days there are many 
 four-wheeled coaches and chariots ufed, efpeclally by the am- 
 baffadors and minifters. It is alfo cuftomary for the gentlemea 
 to fit uncovered in their carriages, but a fervant returning in one 
 is obliged to fit covered, by which means the perfons fitting in 
 other carriages which meet or pafs it, are betrayed into no im- 
 proper falutation. 
 
 The faddles ufed here are like our nja?iege demi-piquesy the 
 ftirrups are wooden boxes, which appear very aukward. 
 
 Swords are only worn by well-dreffed people, and all orna- 
 ments of gold or filver lace, or enibroidery, are prohibited 
 to be worn on the clothes of the Portuguefe of both fexes. 
 Their filk clothes are fometimcs elegantly embroidered with 
 filk of a different colour, and many jewels are dlfplayed on 
 gala days. Topazes are very plentiful here, and are ex^ 
 tremely well fetj but their filverfmiths' w.orkmaafhip is very 
 clumfy. 
 
 The kingdom of Portugal produces corn, oil, wine, oranges 
 four and fweet, lemons, citrons, pears, apples, cherries, figs, 
 damafcenes, peaches, apricots, grapes, melons, chefnuts, al- 
 monds, nuts, medlars, walnuts., hafelnuts, filberds, alfcrrobczf 
 fjiliqua*jy medronhos (urbutus-\)., mulberries, truffles, cab- 
 
 * A kind of fweet acorn. t Strawberry- trees. 
 
 bages>
 
 PORTUGAL, 29 
 
 5ages, turnips, cauliflowers, &c. v/ith various medicinal and 
 aromatic herbs and flowers. The quadrupeds are the fame as 
 in England. The birds are, cocks and hens, pigeons, geefe 
 and turkies. Thefe lafl; are called Peril in Portuguefe, as the 
 birds were originally imported from the country of the fame 
 name. The fifti are falmon, foles, tench, lampreys, dorados^ 
 tunny, mullet, John dorie, fardinhas^ fturgeon, trout, barbel, 
 whiting, roach, congers, eels, carp, lobflers, oyfters, and a great 
 variety of other forts. 
 
 There are fome few iron mines in this kingdom. It is faid that 
 in 1528, a filver mine was difcovered near Braganca, but it was 
 never worked. The ancients celebrated the golden fands of the 
 Tagus ; and the Portuguefe affirm, that king John III. had a- 
 iceptre made of the gold found in that river: Duarte Nunez, in 
 his Defcription of Portugal, fays, that this fceptre is yet pre- 
 ferved in the royal treafury. Several copper-mines were likewife 
 difcovered in the laft century, but I could never hear of any be- 
 ing worked at prefent. Some magnets are found near Gintra : 
 amber is fometimes met with on the coaft, near Setubal. Tur- 
 quoifes, amethyfts, hyacinths, cryftals, talc, and mercury are 
 alfo produed in Portugal. Here are many ftone and marble 
 quarries ; and the fabric of fait is very conflderablc. 
 
 The Tagus is navigable but a little way above Lifoon, oc- 
 cafioned by its running betvreen inacceflible rocks, and its cur- 
 rant is broke by many rapid cataracts. A company of Dutch- 
 men j,
 
 30 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 men, in the reign of Charles II. offered to trace roads over the 
 rocks, and to make dikes and fluiccs which would facilitate the 
 paflage of boats from Lifbon quite to Madrid, as they propofed 
 to render the river Man^anares, which empties itfelf into the 
 Tagus, alfo navigable. They required the revenue which was 
 to amount from the taxes to be levied on goods thus 
 conveyed by water. Several councils were accordingly called 
 in Madrid and Lifbon : the conclufion of their deliberations (ac- 
 cording to Colmenares) was this : 
 
 " If God had been willing to have thofe two rivers navigable, 
 " he did not want the afTiftance of men to render them fo, be- 
 *' caufe he was able to produce that great effe£l by a fmglejiat. 
 *' Now, as he has not done it, it follows, that he did not think 
 *' proper to do it, fo that it would be contradiding his provi- 
 " dence to endeavour to redify what he appears to have left im- 
 " perfed, for reafons known to himfelf." 
 
 Thus vaniihed this ufeful project in confequence of this phi- 
 lofophical determination. 
 
 A fimilar method of reafoning feems to be ufed by the Minor- 
 quins ; who, as Mr. Armftrong writes, " never prune a tree 
 *' (the vine excepted), thinking it irreligious in fome degree to 
 *' prefume to diredl its growth; and if you exprefs your won- 
 ** der that they forbear this ufeful pradice, and inform them of 
 ** the advantages that attend it in other countries, their 
 
 *' anfwer
 
 PORTUGAL, 31 
 
 **. anfwer Is ever ready, God knows bejl how a tree jhould 
 •' groiv" 
 
 Tobacco is not allowed to be cultivated in any part of Portugal 
 or Spain under pain of death. All kinds of it, as well as fnufFs, ex- 
 cepting tliofe which come from theBrafils, are ftri£tly prohibited. 
 The tobacco is of two forts, the one in dry leaves, the price is 
 4 J-. b d. or 800 reis per pound ; the other rolled up in pieces of 
 an inch thick, and five or fix inches long. This fort is very 
 black, wet, and ftinking, and fells at about half the price of 
 the other fort. The fnuff is of the fine duft, known in England 
 by the names of Spanifh and Brafil fnuffs : thefe are fold only 
 af the royal tobacco office. Since my departure from LilTaon, I 
 am informed that there is a royal fabric for rappe ere£led. 
 
 Saint Anthony of Padua was formerly the generaliflimo of the 
 Portuguefe army ; his appointments were three hundred thou- 
 fand reis, or >C S4' ?•''• ^ ^A per annum; but lately the Count 
 de la Lippe fupplled the faint's place, and a year ago, as the 
 count is retired to his eftate in Germany, a Scotch gentleman of 
 the name of Maclean, vi?as appointed general in chief and 
 governor of Lifbon. This gentleman, who has been in the 
 Portuguefe fervice fince the year 1763, was formerly governor 
 of Almeida, and of the whole province of Beira, and is in every 
 refpe£t worthy of the high dignity to which he is raifed. The 
 Britifh officers here have the fame pay as in the Englifti fer- 
 vice., which is double that of the Portuguefe, 
 
 I paid.
 
 32 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 I paid a vifit one evening to the Englifh nunnery of St. 
 Bridget, in Llfbon, and found the ladles, who were at that time 
 twenty-two in number, very chatty and entertaining. Tiie reader 
 will pleafe to obferve that the grate was between them and me. 
 There is another Englifli nunnery at Bellem near Lifbon, which 
 I did not vifit. 
 
 The windmills in this kingdom, as well as thofe of Spain, arc 
 about feven feet in height, and of a very fimple conftrudlion. The 
 mlll-ftone lies horizontally, and the fails almofl: touch the ground. 
 An excellent convenience for Don Quixote, who would have found 
 it a difficult matter to have encountered a Dutch v;indmill, the 
 fails of which are fometimes forty or fifty feet above the ground. 
 
 The ladles here ride on burros^ or jack-affes, with a pack- 
 faddle. A fervant attends them with a fharp ftick, to make the 
 beaft go fafler when neceflary : if it goes too fafl:, he flops it 
 by pulling it by the tail. Gentlemen ride on horfes, fer- 
 vants on mules, as likewife do thofe phyficians who have 
 no carriages. 
 
 There was a wooden theatre, or circus, eredled for the bull- 
 fights when I was at Lifbon, but as I did not fee any there, I 
 fhall defer the account of them till I defcribe thofe which I faw in 
 Spain. 1 was informed that here they place wooden knobs on 
 the horns of the bulls on thofe occafions. 
 
 lu
 
 PORTUGAL. 33 
 
 In one of the fuburbs of Lifoon Is a convent, over the door 
 of which the arms of England and Portugal are hewn in ftone-, 
 party per pale, the lion and unicorn for fupporters, with the 
 royal crown on the top. I could get no information on what 
 occafion this ornament was placed there. 
 
 A new public walk is now planting at Lifhcn; at one end k 
 a fine profped of the gallows, and at the other end is the 
 /lote/ of the inquifition. I am happy in Informing my readers 
 that the pow-er of this infernal tribunal is very much diminifh- 
 ed, and that no perfon has fufFered death on a religious account 
 during thefe lafl; fourteen years, either In this kingdom or that 
 of Spain, aiitos dafc being quite abolirtied, though the Inquifi- 
 tion may poflibly be yet ufed as a flate-trap, in order to fqueeze 
 fome of the over-rich. 
 
 The drefs of the men, among the common people, is a large 
 cloak and flouched hat ; under the cloak they commonly wear a 
 dagger, though that treacherous weapon is prohibited : the 
 blades of fome of thefe will ftrike through a crown piece. The 
 women wear no caps, but tie a kind of net-work filk purfe ovex* 
 their hair, with a long taflel behind, and a ribbon tied In a 
 bow-knot over their forehead. This head-drefs they call redc- 
 cilla^ and It is worn indifcriminately by both fcxes. The Lon- 
 ■<lon caricatures of Macaroni hair-clubs are not at all exaggerat- 
 ed when applied to the Portuguefe. The gentry drefs entirely 
 in the French fafhion. 
 
 F Th€
 
 34 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 The ladies wear very large and heavy pendants in their ears t 
 the fleevcs of their gowns are wide enough to admit their waift, 
 which, however, feldom exceeds a fpan in diameter. 
 
 Large nofegays are much in fafhion with the fair fex among 
 the Portuguefe. A very erroneous notion concerning them and 
 the Spanifh ladles prevails in England : we are apt to imagine 
 that they are inclined to gravity and referve ; whereas, in reality, 
 one ought to adopt -Voltaire's opinion of the ladies of the 
 fouthern countries. He fays, thofe of the northern climates- 
 have milk in their veins, whereas thefe have quickfilver in theirs. 
 By this expreffion mercury, in a medical light, is not to be under-- 
 ftood, but that they are as volatile as that mineral. I never 
 met with women more lively in any part of Europe ; they are 
 perpetually dancing, finging, laughing, and talking, and are 
 fprightly and vivacious in the higheft degree. 
 
 Cortejos here are fynonimous with the Italian Cicijoei, but L 
 do not mean to aflert that all their ladies have fuch attendants ; 
 and to the honour of the Britifh fadory be it faid, the condud of 
 the ladies who belong to it, has exempted them from any cen-- 
 fure on that accoimt. 
 
 Towards the latter end of January I had determined to fet out 
 for Oporto, but I deferred my journey a few days, in order to 
 be prefent at a Angular execution, which was that of a man to be 
 burnt alive. He was condemned for Healing the plate and vefl- 
 
 meuts
 
 PORTUGAL. 55 
 
 ments out ofa church, and afterwards firing it, to conceal the 
 theft. He had been a year in prifon, and was dragged from 
 thence to the church he had burnt, tied by the legs to the tails of 
 two horfes; but the friars of the Mifer'icordia had placed him on 
 an ox's hide, fo that he did not fufFer much. Before the church 
 was fixed a flake vvuth a feat, on a fcafFold elevated about fix feet, 
 under which faggots, torches, pitch-barrels, and other com- 
 buftible materials were placed. The fcaffold was environed by a 
 regiment of cavalry, behind which flood moft of the monks of 
 Lifbon, who had joined in the proceflion. He was faflencd to 
 the flake at half an hour part five, and fire was immediately put 
 underneath the fcafFold. In five-and-twenty minutes all was re- 
 duced to afhcs. The rope which tied his neck to the flake was 
 foon burnt, and then his body fell into the fire. He was probably 
 flifled with the fnioke before the flames reached him : the fire 
 afterward penetrated between his ribs, which were fliortly con- 
 fumed. This fpeftacle was very tremendous and awful. It was 
 dark before the fire was put to the fcaffold. Ea<;h of the ca- 
 valry had a torch in his hand ; and the multitude of fpedlators 
 was innumerable. 
 
 The months of November and December are ufually rainy 
 in this country, when travelling is impradticable, becaufe the 
 waters gather together in the valleys to fuch a depth, that they 
 cannot be forded. After the rains have fubfided, it is neceflary 
 to wait about a month till the waters are retired to their proper 
 channels. Sometimes thefe heavy rains, which 
 
 F 2 ** Unbroken!
 
 '6 TP.AVELS THROUGH 
 
 *' Unbroken floods, and folid torrents pour," 
 lafl till February, after which thrCre hardly falls a drop for fiva^ 
 or fix months. 
 
 About four leagues from Lifbon is fituated the convent of 
 Odivelas, where it is faid that three hundred beautiful nuna 
 formed a feraglio for the late king ; had each one or more 
 lovers, and were the moft attrading miftrefles of the Portuguefa 
 nobility. At prefent but a very few of thefe nuns are living, and 
 they are become old and ugly ; fo that this convent is no longer 
 a fcene of debauchery. A French author fpeaking of it, fays, 
 " I was aflured that the famous Portuguefe Letters., of which wa 
 have a French tranflation, came out of this tender, gallant, and 
 voluptuous monaftery. That thefe letters which breathe the moft 
 ardent and moft generous love, which paint it with all its {hades, 
 in all its details, wherein are found its ftorms, its inquietudes, 
 its returns, its momentary refolves, the delicacy of its appre- 
 henfions, and the heroifm of its facrificcs, were really written 
 by an impalEoncd nun, and an unfaithfullover." 
 
 I bought here feveral work-bags made in the Brahls, of the 
 fibres of aloe leaves. They coft about a crown a-piece ; and 
 when foiled are cleaned by waftiing them in lemon juice and 
 water. Laces, gloves, reins for, horfes, &,c. are likewife made 
 pf the fame materials. 
 
 Their majefties go a hunting everyday, efpecially after wolves 
 and wild boars. The queen is very courageous on horfebackj;
 
 PORTUGAL. 57 
 
 and, as I was informed, rides in boots and leather-breeches, and 
 is moreover extremely expert at her gun. 
 
 I now began to prepare for my departure ; firft applying to 
 Mr. Walpolefor a paflport, which he gave me written in French,, 
 and was fo obliging as to procure another for me from the 
 Spanifli ambaflador. This laft was the only one that ever was 
 of any fervice ; for, by fhewing it (as it was written in Spanifli) 
 to the fearcheis of baggage, at the gates of the cities in Spain, 
 and giving them the value of a fhllling or two, the cloaths, 
 &c. remained untouched. The trunks, however, were always 
 opened for form fake^ 
 
 I purchafed a Portuguefe pafs from the governor, of the ward: 
 in which I lived in Lifbon. Thefe paffes fpecified my name, 
 the number of fervants, mules, and horfes, and likewife that I. 
 had leave to carry piftols, and other fire-arms. 
 
 I then hired a chaife drawn by a pair of mules, and agreed, 
 with the driver that he fhould drag me to Oporto in nine days,. 
 and likewife furnifli a faddle-horfe for my Englifh fervant. It 
 was alfo agreed, that I fliould pay for his maintenance, and that, 
 of the owner of .the horfe who accompanied us on foot, but not 
 for that of the beads. I chofe to go by way of Alcobaya and 
 Batalha, which is not the dircdl road. The diftance from Lif- 
 bon to Oporto, on this road, is about two hundred and eighty 
 Snglifli. miles. 
 
 I likewife,'
 
 38 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 J likcwile hired Jean Baptifte Pecquet, the fame fervant Vfho 
 liad, in 1760, travelled with Mr, Baretti. He was to ferve a» 
 purveyor and cook. The whole travelling expence was, for 
 myfelf, two fervants, the mule-driver, the horfe-driver, two 
 mules and a horfe, about three pounds fterling per day. 
 
 I moreover purchafed a pair of blankets and fheets, knives, 
 forks, fpoons, drinking-glaffes, candlefticks, fnuffers, wax- 
 candles, a pepper and fait box, a gun, a pair of piftols, powder, 
 fhot, and bullets. 
 
 Thus equipped, I fet out from Lifbon, on the 3Cth of Ja- 
 nuary, at eight in the morning ; at eleven we crofTed a fmall 
 branch of the Tagus in a ferry-boat, and at two we flopped to 
 bait at Alverca, which is four leagues from Lifbon ; and after 
 refting there three hours, we proceeded four leagues farther to 
 Caftanhera, pafling through Villafranca, and leaving the Tagus 
 to the right. This road lies chiefly through olive grounds, bor- 
 dered with aloes. Having wrapped myfelf in a large cloak, I 
 pafTed the night on a mattrefs of ftraw placed on the ground, lay- 
 ing a fheet over it. The muleteer flept in the flable near 
 his beafts. 
 
 January 3 i . This morning, after four hours journey, we 
 dined at Otta, the road to which lies over a fandy heath, pro- 
 ducing many prickly pears. Four hours more brought us to 
 . Tagarro, where we found nothing to eat but a few eggs. We 
 
 pafled
 
 kJ/ tt^ ^Jas t . ?*> 
 
 '/7*S
 
 PORTUGAL. 39 
 
 pafled the night here, and in the morning breakfafted on hot 
 wine, boiled with fiigar and a dozen yolks of eggs. This 
 food is very nouriihing, and I continued to ufe it till the hot 
 weather came on. 
 
 February i. This morning Baptifte bought half a dozen 
 live fowls, which he killed immediately, and ftripped off the 
 feathers in the chaife. We proceeded for five hours till we 
 came to a vettta *. The weather was exceffively cold and 
 windy. Five hours more brought us to Alcobaga. The roads 
 were fo bad, that the chaife was fupported by a man on each 
 fide, though we had alighted, and walked moft part of the way. 
 The mules go at the rate of three and a half, or four Englifh 
 miles an hour, fo that one may walk till tired, and then get into 
 the chaife again. I amufed myfelf daily with my gun, though, 
 there is very little game near the roads. On a hill near this 
 village, is an old Moorifh caftle, now ruined, built of large 
 rough ftones, with very thick morter, a view of which is givea. 
 in one of the plates in this work. 
 
 * A 'ucnia is a lone houfe, eftablifhcd by public authority, for the con- 
 venience of travellers. Thefe hovels are frequently fituated at the diflance 
 of eighteen or twenty miles not only from each other, but from any other 
 houfes. In them the prices of the accommodations are regulated monthly by 
 government. The landlord is obliged to fix the paper v/ith the taxation in 
 fome confpicuous part of his houfe ; accordingly, he partes it on the higheft 
 part of the roof, fo that it cannot be read without the affiflance of ai 
 tele/cope,. 
 
 EeB;
 
 40 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 Teb. 2. I here villtcdtlie royal convent, delivering a letter to the 
 fuperlor, which I had brought from Lifbon. This convent is of 
 tlie order of St. Bernard, and was founded in 1151, by Dou 
 Alfonlb Henriqucs, king of Portugal. The front confifts of the 
 church, whicii is fituated in the middle of the convent. The lat- 
 ter has eighteen windows on each fide, and is two florics in 
 height. A noble flight of fteps leads up to the church, which 
 is two hundred and thirty-eight feet in length. The roof is 
 fupported by twenty-fix marble pillars. Here is a fine organ, 
 with one hundred and_ feventy-three horizontal pipes : two fe- 
 pulchres of marble, with bad baflb relievos, contain the bo- 
 dies of Don Pedro I. and his queen; Sancho T. and Alfonfo IL 
 and III. are likewife buried here. Behind the great altar are 
 eight fmall chapels. Here are at prefent one hundred and thirty 
 monks, who are all noblemen, and have each a fervant, which, 
 with the cooks and gardeners, amount to above three hundred 
 perfons to be maintained ; fo that it is not to be wondered at 
 that it is as difficult to procure an egg or an onion for many 
 miles round, as it would be if one travelled by land fromPeterf- 
 burgh to Peking ; for this great gulph fwallows up every thing. 
 
 The revenue of this convent amounts to 1 80,000 crufados per 
 annum, or/,'. 24,375. . Round the cornice of a large hall are the 
 ftatues of twenty of the kings of Portugal as large as the life, 
 made of plaifter, and painted with the natural colours : and there 
 is room for fix more. In the garden of the cloifter are four ^'«ry 
 Jarge orange trees, with lemons grafted in them. The facrifty 
 
 was
 
 PORTUGAL. 41 
 
 was thrown clown by the great earthquake, but is now rebuilt. 
 I was here fhcwn a golden chalice, very curioufly carved and in- 
 laid with precious ftones; and in the library I faw £fl/^£»rt'///f's 
 Virgil^ and Foul/Vs Honwr, both which books were prefented 
 by George Pilt, efq. 
 
 The kitchen is very large, and all tiled : the chimney ftands 
 in the center, the funnel of which is thirty-four feet long and 
 thirteen feet broad, and is fupported by eight iron pillars. Un- 
 der this funnel are a great number of caldrons of different fizes. 
 A fmall rivulet is made to run through this kitchen, the conve- 
 nience of which need not be pointed out ; and feven cooks are 
 conftantly employed. 
 
 The rabbit-warren Is adjacent to the kitchen, and is a very 
 fingular one. It is a large area, paved with fquare marble flabs, 
 and walled in ; feveral rows of low Iheds are built, in parallel 
 lines, from one end to the other ; and under thefe are placed five 
 thoufand earthen pots, with lids, and furniflied with flraw, hav- 
 ing a hole in one fide to admit the conies, which confequently 
 are all tame. At one end of the area is an inclofure to feparate 
 the young from the bucks occafionally. They are readily caught 
 by the hand, on lifting off the lid of the pot. 
 
 Adjoining to the warren, flands the pigeon-houfe, which is 
 circular. A round column fupports the roof; the infide is 
 full of earthen pots, in which the pigeons build their nefts. 
 
 G There
 
 42 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 There are twenty-four rows of thefe pots, one hundred and' 
 twenty in each row ; and round the cokimn, in the middle, are- 
 likewife twenty-four rows, each containing twenty- four pots : 
 the total number of which is three thoufand four hundred and: 
 fifty-fix. 
 
 Behind the convent are the gardens, which produce all kinds, 
 of fruits and kitchen ^(lufF: and round thefe are olive and vine- 
 yards, and groves, 
 
 " Where the lemon and the piercing lime, 
 
 " With the deep orange, glowing thro' the green, 
 
 *' Their lighter glories blend.'* 
 
 Thomson's Summer,, 
 
 The vauks under the convent, are very large, and filled with, 
 various kinds of wines : and in their flables are feveral hundreds 
 of mules, for thefe worthy fathers to take the diverfion of rid- 
 ing. I dined and fupped with about twenty of the fuperior 
 friars, in a private room; the others all dined in the refed:ory ;-, 
 and in the evening the bottle went as brilkly about as ever I faw 
 it do in Scot/and; fo that with the aid of fome mufical inftru- 
 ments, we fpent a very agreeable day. Soon after midnight I: 
 retired to my inn, though much prefled to take a bed in the 
 convent. If I had accepted it, I iliould probably have paffed a 
 week with thefe jovial companions^- from whom I parted with . 
 great regret, but fliall always retain a grateful fenfe of their un-- 
 affedled politeuefs and frauknefs. This convent is the moil mag- 
 nificent;
 
 PORTUGAL. 43 
 
 mficent and the richeft I know ; and its inhabitants compofe the 
 mofl agreeable body of ecclefiaftics I ever had the pleafure of 
 being acquainted with. 
 
 Feb. 3. Early in the morning I fet out for Batalha, through 
 olive grounds and cork forefts, the road being pretty good. 
 We pafled by a Moorifli caftle to the right, at fome dif- 
 tance. 
 
 I immediately waited on the fuperior of the monaflery here, 
 ■with a letter given to me by the gentlemen of Alcoba9a. It is 
 alfo a royal convent, founded in 1426, by Don John I. The 
 church is a very fine Gothic building, much like King's College 
 chapel in Cambridge, and is feventy-one paces in length. The 
 roof is fuftained by fixteen columns of marble. In a circular 
 chapel is Interred king John I. with his queen Phllippa, (who 
 was eldeft daughter to the duke of Lancafter, uncle to king 
 Richard II. of England, and was given in marriage to king 
 John I. in 1386, at Oporto) in a marble fepulchre, his right 
 hand locked In her's. Their arms are engraven at one end of 
 the tomb. Her's are quarterly the royal arms of England, charg- 
 ed with a label of three points, and argent a crokj'able, encircled 
 with the Garter, Four of their fons are interred in as many 
 fmall tombs placed In the v/all. In this chapel are eight fmall 
 pieces of painting on wood, much In the ftyle of Albert Durer. 
 King Edward and his queen are buried near the great altar. Their 
 figures arc very clumfily cut in ftone, and lie hand in hand. 
 
 G 2 The
 
 44 
 
 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 The corpfe of king John II. is preferved in a wooden cheft, to 
 which there is an afcent by fevcral fteps. 
 
 In another chapel, which is a cube of twenty-three paces>. 
 are buried^ in two cherts, Alfonfo V. and his fon who died [4S1. 
 The roof of this chapel is vaulted in the fhape of a ftar, with 
 eight points, and is without fupport. 
 
 In another chapel is a very handfome monument, eredled to. 
 the count of Miranda, ia 1 740 ;. and made in Italy. It is a 
 fquare tomb of black marble, with yellow veins, fupported on 
 the backs of three lioas of yellow marble, couchant on three 
 black marble cufliions. On each fide is a death's head, with a 
 naked weeping boy of white marble ; and on the top is his co- 
 ronet lying on a cufhion. 
 
 The cloiflers form a fquare, confifling of feven arches on each, 
 fide. In the center is a well, and at each corner a large 
 orange tree. 
 
 Behind the church is a fpacious odagon chapel without a 
 roof, as it was left unfinifhed. The carving in flone is very 
 fine, and in the Gothic manner. The walls are ornamented 
 with fmall baflb relievos of two branches intertwined,, 
 in the mldft of which are the following Gothic chaw 
 
 t2V3.S \ 
 
 raders 1^ ^P ) this is repeated thoufands of times, though in 
 
 fome
 
 PORTUGAL, 
 
 45 
 
 feme parts the charaders are placed thus ( ^^JZ ) the meanhig 
 of which is unknown. 
 
 This convent is of the Dominican order, and contained for- 
 merly one hundred and eighty monks, though at prefent no 
 more than forty-eight refide here : they are all noblemen. The 
 revenues are only eight thoufand crufados per annum, i. e^ 
 about a thoufand guineas. I declined pafFing the night in thl3 
 convent, as I faw they had little or nothing to eat, and lefs to 
 drink, becaufe they are but three leagues diftant from the Alco- 
 bayan monks, who are in poffeffion of all the good things, and 
 feem to have divided the circumjacent lands according to the 
 Montgomery equity, " iout d'un cote & rien de /' autre" There 
 is no inn nor venta here, fo that I proceeded to Leyria, which 
 is only two leagues farther. The roads were very muddy. I 
 procured an afs and a guide, and rode over a fmalL hill, leaving 
 the chaife to follow at leifure. Leyria is a pretty large town, 
 and poireiTes a Moorifh caflle on a hill, but nothing elfe worthy 
 of obfervation. Near this town is a glafs manufactory carried 
 on by an Englifliman. 
 
 Feb. 4. We proceeded five leagues to Pombalj a fmall vil- 
 lage which gives title of marquis to the prefent prime minifter 
 of Portugal. The inhabitants are chiefly hatters. 
 
 We dined this day by the fide of the road, turning the mules 
 atnd horfe loofe to graze ; and fpreading our provifions on the 
 
 ground;
 
 46 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 ground. Thefe confifted of cold fowls, hard eggs, ham, cheefe, 
 and bread, together with water-creffes, of which we had " flript 
 the brook" on our way. The boracha, which is a leathern 
 bag, and was filled with wine, went merrily about. Mine held 
 four gallons. It was regularly filled every morning, and as re- 
 gularly emptied. The wine is chiefly whhe, and coPcs about 
 four pence a quart. I climbed up a high hill near Pombal, to 
 infpedl aMoorilli caftle, the v^-alls only are {landing ; the infide 
 was full of rue, which had grown to a very great height. The 
 country we went through this day was chiefly olive-grounds and 
 corn-fields. 
 
 Feb. 5. Seven leagues march this day brought us to Coim- 
 bra, having dined at the village of Pondes, For the laft two 
 leagues the road is paved, and bordered by olive and pine trees. 
 Coimbra is an univerfity, and is fituated on a hill, near the 
 river Mondego, over which is a very long and lov/ bridge, with 
 a great number of arches of different fiz.es. Five Englifh fami- 
 lies refide here, one of them is that of a phyfician. This city is 
 celebrated for its curious cups and boxes of turned horn. 
 
 Feb. 6. On a hill in Coimbra, is a church with a cupola, of 
 very good architcdture, plain and fimple. In the church of 
 Santa Cruz is a painting over the great altar reprefenting the 
 afTumption of a female faint. It is here attributed to Raphael ; 
 it appeared to me to be a very good Italian pidure, but it was 
 fo dark that I could not afcertain the truth of the above afl'er- 
 
 tion.
 
 PORTUGAL. 4^ 
 
 tion. I obferved alfo a large organ with horizontal pipes in this 
 church. Here is an aquedud of twenty arches, which conveys 
 water to the caftle, both built about the middle of the fixteenth 
 century by king Sebaftian. " As I now difcovered that there 
 was nothing farther to difcover," I proceeded three leagues to 
 Aniolhada. The road is good, and lies through plantations 
 of olive-tees, vine-yards, and corn-fields. 
 
 Feb. 7. We proceeded through forefls of pine and cork,, 
 dined at Sardon, and fliortly after crofTed the little river Ague- 
 da, over a bridge of three arches; afterwards ferried over the 
 river Vouga, which is broad, fhallow, and exceedingly tranf- 
 parent. Near the ferry is a flone bridge, which had fifteen 
 arches ; but the two firft are broken. We then afcended a fteep 
 rugged rock on foot, and arrived at Albergaria. 
 
 Feb. 8. All this day there was a thick fog. The road was 
 very bad, over loofe pieces of rock, through pine and cork 
 woods. We dined at Sant-Antonio. On each fide of the road 
 I faw a pole with a man's head upon it: they were thofe of 
 two banditti, who had been lately executed. We pafled the night 
 in ti.venta, 
 
 Feb. 9. It rained violently all this day. We travelled eight 
 hours on a very clayey road, and arrived at Villanova, which is 
 along ftreet of fmiths' (hops. We then defcended a fteep hill 
 to the edge of the river Douro, which we ferried over, and en- 
 tered :
 
 43 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 tcrecl Oporto, where there being no tolerable inn, I took lodg- 
 ings on the quay, at an Englifh houfe. 
 
 This city, which is the fecond in the kingdom, is fald to 
 contain thirty thoufand inhabitants. Thirty Englifh families re- 
 fide here, who are chiefly concerned in the wine trade : this 
 fatlory maintains a clergyman, who performs fervice on Sun- 
 days at each houfe alternately. Their burying ground is only 
 a field, at fome diftance from the town. A Britifh conful alfo re- 
 fides here. 
 
 I was prefent at an alTembly in the fadtory-houfe, where there 
 were about twenty Britifh ladies. 
 
 Oporto, and its fuburb Villanora, are each built on a hill, 
 with the Douro between them : a fituation much refembling 
 Newcaftie-upon-Tyne and its fuburb Gatefhead. There is no 
 bridge over the Douro, becaufe, when the fnows melt on the 
 mountains, that river overflows its banks, and lays the lower 
 part of the city under water, Ibmetimcs twelve or fourteen feet, 
 running at the amazing rate of fixteen miles an hour, and carry- 
 ing all the vefTels to fea, many of which are lofl on the fands, or 
 beat to pieces againfl the fhores. 
 
 The theatre here is the vileft in the two kingdoms, very old and 
 fhabby. It ferves for Portuguefe plays and for Italian operas. Ifaw 
 the opera of Demofoonte donc^ fuitably to the place it was done in. 
 
 The
 
 PORTUGAL. 49 
 
 The church of San Francifco is full of wooden ornament s, 
 profufely carved, and entirely gilt, which has a very difgufting 
 efFed:. I obferved many letters direded to the mofl: glorious 
 Saint Francis, hanging by threads of the walls. As they were 
 all open, I took the liberty of reading fome of them, and found 
 they were only complimentary cards and letters of thanks, for 
 cures which the writers thought they had received by means of 
 that faint's intereft with the Virgin Mary, &c. 
 
 The church dos Clerigos, fituated on the highefl part of the 
 city, has a fteeple, much like that of the New Church in the 
 Strand, which ferves for a land-mark to mariners. 
 
 They were at that time building a new gate and prifon, of 
 free-ftone, in a very good ftyle : after the completion of which, 
 it will be neceffary to widen the ftreet in which that prifon 
 ftands, *' if only to let a man have the fatisfailion of knowing 
 on which fide of the ftreet he walks." There are few carriages 
 here, as the ftreets are fteep and narrow : thefe are all paved 
 with broad ftones, as thofe in Florence are. 
 
 Chairs and horfe-litters are ufed here in bad weather : thefe 
 litters are fedans, fupported between two horfes or mules. The 
 boats on the river have an awning like the Venetian gondolas, 
 and are rowed by men ftanding forward, after the fame manner 
 as the Barcaruoli of Venice row, and fometimes by one man with 
 a fingle oar. 
 
 H The
 
 50 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 The merchants aflemble daily in the chief ftreet, to tranfa£l 
 bufinefs ; and are protefted from the fun by fail-cloths hung ar 
 crofs from the oppofite houfes. 
 
 Mr, Wood, to whom I was recommended, took me to his- 
 quinta^ or country-houfe, about a mile off. The gardens ars- 
 on the flope of a high hill ; ten terraces rife gradually one above 
 the other, each of them ornamented with a fountain, and vari>- 
 ous fhady walks of orange and lemon trees, fome of them re- 
 markably large.; The owner affured me he had gathered from a; 
 fmgle orange tree, no lefs than fixteen thoufand oranges in one 
 fcafon ! From the upper terrace is one of the fineft profpeds- 
 imaginable, equalling that from Mount Edgecumbe, near Ply- 
 mouth. To the eaft is the city of Oporto, with Villanova, 
 which, by being fo near, are very diftindlly difcovered. To the 
 weft, the fea, diftant about two miles, with the mouth of the 
 river, and fhips continually entering into and failing out of the 
 harbour, form " a moving pisfture," the river itfelf run- 
 ning in a ferpentine courfe, not far from the foot of the hill on 
 which the garden ftands ; the oppofite fhores being mountains 
 covered with vines, and numbers of the like fmall country-houfeSy, 
 in the environs (though inferior in point of fituation to this inr- 
 expreffibly pleafing retreat) enliven the fcene. 
 
 The chief article of commerce in this city is wine. Twenty 
 thoufand pipes are yearly exported. The coft is about r.io. 
 or ;ir. 1 2 each. Eighty thoufand are the ufual annual produce, 
 
 fo
 
 PORTUGAL, 51 
 
 fo that three fourths are confuraed in the country. The mer- 
 chants here have very fpacious wine vaults, fome of which are 
 capable of holding fix or feven thoufand pipes. The inhabi- 
 tants of half the (hops in the city are coopers, who fell their 
 caflcs at about a moidore each. 
 
 Here I agreed with the fam-e calejfeiro who had brought me 
 from Lifbon, that I fhould have the whole difpofal of the car- 
 riage and beafts to go where I pleafed, not to exceed ten leagues 
 per day. The fhaft-mule, which cofl forty moidores, or ^. 54, 
 was one of the ftrongeft and fineft I ever faw. 
 
 Accordingly I fet out from Oporto on the 15th of February, 
 early in the morning, ferried over the Douro, and afcended the 
 hill on foot in an hour. My largeft trunk, which weighed 
 above three hundred pounds, was carried on the back of a por- 
 ter, which fhows the great ftrength of thefe fellows. We dined 
 afterwards in the fhade of fome vafl: cork-trees, and then pro- 
 ceeded to St. Antonio, having all the way the profpe£l of the 
 fea to the right ; and at that time two Portuguefe men of war 
 imder fail ; and to the north-eaft two very high mountains co- 
 vered with fnow. On the road v\'e met about twenty criminals, 
 chained together with one chain, by means of iron collars 
 faftened round their necks, having each a fhort chain conne£led 
 with the great one, one end of which was held by a foldier 
 on horfeback ; feveral other armed foldiers guarded thefe 
 wretches, and who were alfo hand- cuffed and bare-headed, 
 
 H 2 and
 
 52 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 and were going to be fliipped from Oporto to the Brafils, to work 
 .in the mines. 
 
 Feb. 1 6. We dined at Albergarla, ferried over the Vougaj 
 and pafTed the night at Sardon. The roads were become fo bad 
 by the rains, that we did not arrive till late at night, caufing the 
 horfe-driver to walk before the chaife with a torch. Thus far 
 we returned on the fame road we came, as there is no other 
 carriage road from Oporto to Almeida, whither we were going. 
 
 Feb. 17. We proceeded through olive-grounds to the foot of 
 the mountain of Boflaco, or Mariana. Here I hired a cart drawn 
 by two oxen, by means of which my baggage was dragged up 
 this mountain in two hours. I afcended it on horfeback, and 
 the chaife followed us empty. On the top is a convent of Car- 
 thufians, in which I was told are confined two illegitimate fons 
 of the late king John V. Another natural fon of that king is at 
 prefent archbifliop of Braga.. 
 
 Here we faw the fllll higher mountains Sierras de Eftrellaj, 
 whofe fummits are always covered with fnow. 
 
 Stiff with eternal ice, and hid in fnow 
 That fell a thoufand centuries ago, 
 Thefe mountains ftand, nor can the rifing fun 
 Unfix their frofts, and teach 'em how to run. 
 
 Addison.. 
 
 In
 
 PORTUGAL. 5-3 
 
 In going down the mountain we had juft afcended, the chaife 
 overfet, and one of the wheels was broken to pieces. The 
 neareft houfe was eight miles ofF, fo that I left Baptifle with the 
 ealeffeiro and his man on the road, where they remained all 
 night, and procuring a guide, walked with my Englifh fervanC 
 to the fmall village of Barilhe, in about two hours and a half, 
 taking the fire-arms with me. The next morning the baggage 
 arrived in a cart drawn by oxen. The chaife remained on the 
 road, and a new wheel was befpoke at a village near fourteen 
 miles off. This accident detained us two days in Barilhe. I 
 amufed myfelf by fliooting. The country is very mountainous 
 and barren, like Weftmoreland The ftones here appear to be 
 of the fame nature as the Cornifli granite. I hired a whole 
 houfe to myfelf, which indeed was only one room, the floor of 
 which was of the fame materials as the highway, with no furni- 
 ture, except a. table, a bench, and a trufs of ilraw full of fleas. 
 The roof admitted the rain through large crevices, which ferved 
 for the contemplation of the flars. 
 
 Feb. 20. This morning we pafl!ed over a flrong ftone bridge 
 of four arches, under which rolls a torrent of very clear water; 
 and Immediately after afcended a fteep and rugged mountain, la 
 half an hour ; then we pafled through the village of Santo Com- 
 bo, and crofled the fame torrent on a fl;one bridge of fix arches,, 
 of which two are pretty large. From this fpot is a very romantic 
 view. The road from hence to Cargal is good, chiefly through, 
 olive grounds, with vafl: numbers both of black and white flieep 
 
 feeding
 
 54. TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 feeding under the trees. In this village is no inn, but I procur- 
 ed a lodging in a carpenter's fhop. 
 
 Feb. 2 1. We paffed the river Mondego over a bridge of three 
 arches, and then afcended a mountain. Tvi^o oxen were added 
 to the chaife to aflift the mules in dragging it up. When we ar- 
 rived at the top, we let the mules reft an hour, and afterwards 
 pafTed over a bridge of a fingle arch : then the road became ex- 
 cefFively dangerous, over loofe rocks, deep clay, and flippery 
 precipices. The mules frequently fell down, the traces broke, 
 it rained hard, and was quite dark when we arrived at Vinhofa, 
 where we put up at the worft inn I ever entered before or fince. 
 There was only one room, which was full of people. They had 
 kindled a large fire of wet wood in the middle of it; and, as 
 there was no chimney, the fmoke was left to find its way out of 
 the windows and door. I got fome ftraw, placed it on the top 
 of a large cheft, and rolling myfelf up in my cloak, fell diredly 
 afleep with all my deaths on, my head being half out of a win- 
 dow to avoid fuffocation. 
 
 Feb. 2 2. We travelled this day over barren mountains, with 
 a few cork trees, chefnuts, and pines, fcattered here and there, 
 then pafTed over a bridge of two arches, through fome fields of 
 maize : over another bridge of a fingle arch, and dined at Celo- 
 rico, where we were regaled by a new Chrijiian^ who had late- 
 ly been a Jew, with the fineft red wine I ever drank, refembling 
 JBurgundy in colour and flavour, but fuperior in goodnefs. We 
 
 went
 
 PORTUGAL. 55 
 
 went on to the village of Cava9al, where there Is no inn, but 
 we procured a miferable lodging at a fruit-fhop ; however, the 
 Jew's wine made it appear like a palace, as we had drank 
 pretty freely of it. At Celorlco is a Moorifli callle, widi two 
 towers, fituated on a mountain, down the declivity of which, to 
 the village, is a wall of nine feet thick, built of large rough 
 ftones, without any morter or cement. This morning I obferv- 
 ed on the fide of the road five ftones ftanding upright, of eight 
 feet each in height, and four others of the fame dimenfions ly- 
 ing by them, refembling a little ftone-henge. And among thefe 
 mountains many enormous flones are feea in very unaccountable 
 fituations. 
 
 Feb. 23. Thisday'sjourney was very fatiguing, as we travelled 
 during eleven hours on a very bad road, covered with loofe pieces 
 of rock, with chefnut trees growing between the interftices. We 
 came at laft to the river Coa, which we eroded over a high and 
 dangerous bridge of three arches : the parapets were broken down, 
 and the bridge itfelf was juft broad enough to admit the paflage 
 of the chaife. We then afcended a very high mountain, on the 
 top of which is the town of Almeida* The diftance of this town 
 from Oporto, by the road we came, I imagine to be about two 
 hundred and twenty-eight miles, or fixty-five hours. There is no 
 inn in this town ; but Colonel Calder, who was Governor in the 
 abfence of General Maclean, very politely offered me his houfc, 
 where I fpent two nights, being received with the hofpitality pe- 
 culiar, to his nation,. and which I. had had the happinefs of experi- 
 encing^
 
 56 TP.AVELS THROUGH' 
 
 encing the year before in Scotland. At that time feven or 
 eight other Britifli officers, in the Portuguefe fervice refided 
 here. 
 
 Feb. 24.. Almeida is on the frontiers of the province of Beira, 
 and but a league and a half diflant from the Spanifli caftle, in 
 the kingdom of Leon. 
 
 The town is well fortified ; one hundred and ten guns, chiefly 
 ofbrafs, are planted on fix baftions. There are two gates, a 
 quadrangular caftle in the middle of the town, and handfome 
 barracks. I walked round Almeida in a quarter of an hour. 
 Here I fhewed my paffports. 
 
 Feb. 25. This morning, having proceeded a league and a 
 half, we crofTed a rivulet which divides the kingdom of Portugal 
 from that of Spain, and were flopped at the village of el Obifpo, 
 where we were detained ail day, by reafon of the drivei s having 
 neglected to take a pafs for the mules, and to fjgn a bond that 
 they fhould return into Portugal, as the importation of horfes, 
 mules, and afles, is not allowed in either of the kingdoms, 
 ■without the payment of a very confiderable tax. i therefore fent 
 back to Almeida, and procured the neceflary papers. 
 
 Feb. 26. We proceeded through an exceeding fertile coun- 
 try, confifting of immenfe corn-fields, on gentle rifings. Every 
 inch of ground is cultivated, but not a tree to be feen. We 
 
 dined
 
 SPAIN. 57 
 
 dined at the village of Gallego, where I obferved two ftorks, 
 \yhich had built their nefts on the church ilceple : thefe were 
 the firft birds of the kind I had yet feen in thefe kingdoms, but 
 I afterwards found them in every part of Spain, and likewife 
 in Barbary. 
 
 We crofTed the river Agueda on a temporary bridge ; (a very 
 fine ftone one is now building ; it is to have feven arches, three 
 of which are already finifhed ;) and immediately entered the city of 
 Ciudad-Rodrigo, where I faw many ftorks nefts on the fteeples and 
 chimnies. This city is very neat, has three gates, and a plea- 
 fant public walk of five rows of trees, along the fide of the river. 
 
 The inns here are much better than thofe in Portugal. We 
 were provided with good beds, elevated from the ground, and 
 clean ftieets, though without curtains, which none of the beds 
 in Spain have. 
 
 The cathedral is a Gothic building; the front ornamented 
 with feventeen ftatues of faints, the fteeple is modern, and 
 the entrance is under a porch, fupported by four Corinthian 
 columns. 
 
 Here is alfo an old caftle. The houfes are chiefly built 
 of ftone, and made a much cleaner appearance than thofc in 
 Portugal. 
 
 I Feb.
 
 53 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 Feb. 27. The country we travelled over this day was a fine 
 plain, and corn-fields intermixed with woods of dwarf and ever- 
 green oaks, under one of which we dined, and pafled the 
 night in a venta. There were no locks to the doors, but the 
 landlord told me, that he himfelf was the lock to his houfe, and 
 that every thing was perfedlly fafe, which I had the pleafure of 
 finding to be true, both here and in every other part of Spain- 
 through which I afterwards travelled.. 
 
 Feb. 28. Pafling through a foreft of green oaks, and over a 
 fine plain of corn-fields, leaving a long chain of mountains co- 
 vered with fnow to the right, at three in the afternoon I arriv- 
 ed at Salamanca, and put up at the Sun inn, in the great fquare.. 
 This is the bell inn I ever entered that was kept by a Spaniard, 
 for all the great inns in Madrid, Cadiz, Seville, &c. are kept 
 cither by Italians or Frenchmen., 
 
 This city is built on three fmall hills ; the ftreets are very nar- 
 row and dirty, and the whole has a melancholy afpedt. The 
 univerfity Is much on the decline : it was founded in 1 200, by 
 Alphonfiis IX. and Is the mofl; ancient in Spain. Here are fix- 
 teen fchools, and about four thoufand fcholars. The number 
 of profeflbrs in this city is feventy. Here is a college for Irifh 
 ftudents : the redlor, Mr. Philip HafTett, and his affiftant Mr., 
 Michael Broders, were fo obliging as to accompany me to fee 
 every thing remarkable in Salamanca. They have about thirty 
 young men under their care. 
 
 The
 
 SPAIN, 59 
 
 The lower clafs of men wear large hats uncocked, feme black 
 and fome white, flit fleeves, broad leather belts, and fandals made 
 of cords : and here I faw for the firft time in Spain, huge 
 clumfy coaches drawn by fix 'mules, with very long 
 traces. 
 
 We paid a vifit to the Profeflbr of Aftronomy, who informed 
 me, that Salamanca is fituated in 41^ 5' latitude, and 12° 30' 
 longitude from the ifle of Ferro, 
 
 The moft beautiful part of this city is the great fquare, built 
 about thirty years ago. The houfes are of three ftories, and all 
 of equal height and exaft fymmetry, with iron balconies, and a 
 ftone balluftrade on the top of them : the lower part is arched, 
 which forms a piazza all round the fquare, of two hundred and 
 ninety-three feet to each fide. Over fome of the arches are me- 
 dallions, with bad bufts of the kings of Spain, and of feveral 
 eminent men, in Hone bafTo-relievo, among which are thofe of 
 Fcrnand Cortez, Francis Pizarro, Davila, and Cid Ruy. In 
 this fquare the bull-fights are exhibited for three days only, in 
 the month of June. The river Tormcs runs by this city, and 
 has a bridge over it of twenty- five arches, built by the Romans, 
 and yet entire. 
 
 The cathedral is a Gothic building, with a fuperfluity of 
 carving in ftone on the outfide, and has a fine organ with hori- 
 zontal pipes. 
 
 I 2 Here
 
 6o TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 Here are four royal, and four military colleges. That of Ca- 
 latrava has a very handfome modern ftone flair-cafe. That of 
 St. Bartholomew is a new building ; the entrance is under a 
 porch, fupported by four Corinthian columns, each three feet 
 and a half in diameter. The cloifters are two flories in height,, 
 one of which is of the Doric, and the other of the Compofite 
 order. The grand ftair-cafe has a double flight of fteps. The 
 library is placed in the upper ftory, and commands a fine prof- 
 pe£l over the adjacent country. This building is the handfomeft 
 in Salamanca.. 
 
 St. Stephen's church and convent, wherein one hundred and: 
 fifty monks refide, is of the Dominican order. The front o£ 
 the church is Gothic, with many ftone baffb-relievos, by Cer^ 
 loni, a Milanefe fculptor, in 1612. The picture over the great 
 altar, which reprefents the ftoning of St. Stephen, was beguii; 
 by Claudio Coelio, and finifhed by Luca Giordaao. 
 
 The wall which extends from the choir to the roof, is femi-.- 
 circular, and was painted in frefco by Palomino, in 1705 : it re- 
 prefents Religion with a tiara on her head, drawn in a car by 
 four horfes abreaft, trampling on and riding over heretics. The 
 T/iree Ferfons are in the clouds, attended by the Virgin Mary and. 
 many faints. All thefe figures are as large as the life. 
 
 In the facrifty are many pidures ; the beft are the following. 
 
 A Pii'ti)^ extremely well painted by John Bapt. Mayno, who was 
 
 born at Toledo, and died in 1 640. A
 
 SPAIN. 6r 
 
 A large Flagellation, in the manner of Rubens. 
 
 A fmall Ecce Homo., with many figures, in the ftyle of Al- 
 bert Durer. This pidture is over the altar, and the Annuncia- 
 tion is reprefented by the angel on the one fide, and the Virgin 
 on the other. 
 
 A fmall pidure of St. Peter didatlng to St. Dominic, who. 
 is writing.. 
 
 In the church of the Minor Clerks, I obferved the pidure: 
 over the great altar, which reprefents the Aflumptlon of St.- 
 Charles Boromeo, a good piece, by Francis Camillo : he waS) 
 born at Madrid,, and died in 1671. 
 
 The church which formerly belonged to the Jefuits, is now; 
 ihut up, and_ their convent converted into a royal college. In 
 the cloiflers is theHiflory of the Life of St. Ignatius, in thirty 
 pidures, by Sebaftlan Concha : the figures are rather lefs than 
 the natural fize, and are painted on canvafs. One of the monks: 
 has added another piece, daubed by himfelf. It may eafily be 
 diftinguifhed from the others, among which it has fo unworthily 
 ufurped a place.. 
 
 Oppofite to this church, 1 obferved a palace, of which the 
 front is quite covered with cockle fhells, in ftone baflb relievo, 
 which has as whimfical an effed as I have feen caufed by ths 
 front of a palace in Ferrara, and of another in Naples, be- ■ 
 ing in like manner covered with lozenges, vulgarly called: 
 diamonds.. la;.
 
 62 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 In tlie Capuchin convent, which flands jufl without the ele- 
 gant gate of Zamora, over the great altar, is a very large and 
 fine piece by Vincent Carducci, but a little damaged : it repre- 
 fents the AflTuinption of St. Francis ; the 7/iree Perfons are in the 
 upper part of the picture, environed with angels. 
 
 The celebrated profeflbr of mathematics, Don Diego de Tor- 
 res, died two years ago, and is buried in this convent. 
 
 In the church of the Auguftinian nuns, is a very good picture 
 of the Afllimption of the Virgin Mary, by Jofeph Ribera. Here 
 is a curious inlaid marble pulpit, fupported on the extended 
 wings of an eagle, of bronze, of excellent workmanfhip. The 
 church itfelf is very beautiful. 
 
 I waited on the Cavalleras de Sajitiago^ in their convent; 
 thefe are all noble ladies, who are knights of St. James, 
 and wear the hi/igtna of the order on their breafts. There 
 were at that time no more than eight ladies, all old and ugly, 
 fo that I made my vifit as fhort as poffible, efpecially as there is 
 nothing worthy of attention either in the church or in the convent. 
 
 I afterwards faw the library of the unlverfity, in which the 
 books are 7]ct chained, as is reported by writers who have 
 copied from one another. Two large Englifh globes (land on 
 a table in the middle of the room. 
 
 Here
 
 SPAIN. 62 
 
 Here Is a theatre for Spanlfli plays, which is a very ordinary 
 bulldinp-. 
 
 't>' 
 
 The ftudents are drefled In black like priefts, and have their 
 crowns fhorn. 
 
 Salamanca has ten gates, and contains twenty-five churches, 
 twenty-five convents of friars, and the fame number of nun- 
 neries. I compute this city to be about ninety-four miles dif- 
 tant from Almeida. I was at this time not fufficiently verfed ia 
 the Spanifh language to form any acquaintance with the natives ; 
 fo that having gratified my curiofity in this city, I left It on the 
 third of March, and travelled all day through a very fruitful 
 country, producing corn, but no other trees than a few ftraggling 
 green oaks and cork-trees. During this journey we met and 
 overtook thoufands of afles. The larks here are of an extraor- 
 dinary fize. The largeft which I fliot meafured feventeen inches 
 when the wings were extended : they were crefted, had a black 
 femicircle upon their necks, and proved very delicate eating. We 
 pafled this night in a venta^ which had a flork's nefl on the roof.. 
 
 March 4. We proceeded to Zamora, traverfing a wood of 
 pine-trees, and fome corn-fields. Clofe to this city we crofl'ed the 
 river Duero, over an ancient and clumfy ftone bridge, with fixteen 
 arches of unequal fizes. The cathedral has a handfome modern 
 porch. As it was the time of the fair, the chief ftreet was filled 
 with, booths ; and the end of it was appropriated for the fale of 
 
 mule&
 
 64 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 •mules and aHes. I faw a jack-afs fold here for three thoufand 
 reals, or one hundred and fifty piaftres, which is £. '^■i, ijj. So 
 that £. ICO which was paid by a gentleman of my acquaintance 
 ■in Norfolk for a Spanifl^ jack-afs, will appear to be no exorbitant 
 price, when we confider the firfl: coft, the danger of being de- 
 tected in exporting them, the punifliment of vyhich is death, 
 and the charge of freight, with the rlfque of the animals dying 
 on their palTage. The above mentioned gentleman has bred 
 many fine mules by means of this afs. There is a ruined 
 Moorifh cafile near this city. 
 
 March 5. We arrived this day at the city of Toro, which has 
 "the fame coat of arms as the city of Turin, i. e. a bull, as the 
 names imply. The road was very good, chiefly along the banks 
 of the Duero, with continued vine-yards and corn-fields. I here 
 obferved great numbers of hoopoes, which birds I afterwards 
 found were very common all over Spain. This city is one of 
 the moft ancient in the whole kingdom. It is fituated on the 
 fummit of a high hill, at the foot of which runs the Duero, 
 crofled by a narrow flone bridge of twenty-two arches. The 
 defcent of the hill is by a winding road, which forms thirteen 
 zig-zags : the profpe£t from the top is very romantic over a fine 
 plain, embellifhed by the river and bridge. Here are alfo 
 the walls of a Moorifh caftle, which form a fquare of 
 one hundred and forty-three feet, with a round tower at each 
 angle ; the roof is fallen in. 
 
 Over
 
 SPAIN. 65. 
 
 Over the door of the cathedral are fevcral very ancient baflb 
 relievos in flone ; among which I obferved one of two angels, 
 playing on a mufical inftrument, fomewhat like that called by 
 the French Vielle, Leyer by the Germans, and Beggar's Lyre by 
 Dr. Burney ; one of the angels plays with his fingers on the 
 keys, of which there are ten, and the other turns the handle. 
 The length of the infcrument is about five feet. 
 
 March 6. This day we arrived at Tordefillas, travelling over 
 a fandy plain producing corn and vines. I obferved many eagles 
 planing over head. The city ftands on a hill, and has a ^bridge 
 of ten pointed arches over the Duero. 
 
 March 7. V/e proceeded three leagues to Simanca, which city 
 ftands on an eminence, and has a ftone bridge of feventeen arches 
 over the river Pifuerga, and a large Moorifh caftie, ' on the re- 
 mains of which is built a modern one, furrounded by a dry 
 ditch, over which are two bridges. The archives of the kingdom 
 weredepofited here by Philip II. in 1 566, where they are ftill kept. 
 Travelling two leagues farther, we entered into Old Caftile, and 
 arrived at Valladolid ; the road was through corn-fields, iandy 
 and level, exadlly anfwering the lines in Thomfon's Autumn, 
 
 " A gaily checquer'd heart-expanding view, 
 
 " Far as the circling eye can (hoot around, 
 
 *' Unbounded toffing in a flood of corn *"." 
 
 * " Y los creci dos trigos y cebadis, 
 
 *' H.icen conio del mar fus oleadas." Obs. Rust. 
 
 And the grown wheat and barley form waves like thofe of the fea. 
 
 K Near
 
 66 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 Near the gate at which we entered, I faw the head of a man 
 ftuck on a pole, and one of his quarters, confiding of an arm, 
 flioulder, and part of the ribs, nailed underneath : they were 
 clofe to the road, and quite frefh ; and the beard continued to 
 grow, which formed altogether a ghaftly fpedacle. It was part 
 of the body of an affaffin. 
 
 Valladolid is fituated on a plain, near the river Pifuerga, 
 which has a handfome ftone bridge over it of ten arches. The 
 banks are ornamented with walks, planted with a double 
 row of trees. 
 
 This city is one of the largefl: in Spain, and has an unlverfity^ 
 founded in 1471, by Cardinal Ximenes. 
 
 I obferved that the names of the ftreets were painted on tiles- 
 fixed in the walls of the corner houfes ; and that the houfes 
 were numbered. 
 
 I waited on Dr. John Geddes, who is redtor of the Scotch 
 college, and on Dr. Perry, redlor of the Englifh college : thefe 
 gentlemen have each two affiftants, and fifteen or fixteen youYig 
 men under their tuition. Dr. Geddes was fo obliging as to fliow 
 me every thing remarkable in Valladolid : wc went firft to the 
 library of the univerfity, where there are theological 
 Unwieldy volumes, and in number great; 
 And long it is fince any reader's hand 
 Has reach'd them from their unfrequented feat >
 
 SPAIN. ^j 
 
 For a deep duft, which time does foftly fhed 
 Where only time does come, their covers beare, 
 On which grave fpyders ftreets of webs have fpread. 
 Subtle and flight as the grave writers were. 
 
 D'Avenant's GoNDiBERT, Canto V. V. 48, 49. 
 
 Here are about one thoufand five hundred fludents, who are 
 habited in the fame manner as thofe at Salamanca. The chief 
 ftudy here is that of the law. Father Caimo, fpeaking of this 
 univerfity fays, " From hence, as out of a vaft flore-houfe of 
 •* civil law, iflue all the judges, advocates, lawyers, procurators, 
 " pro<fl:ors, dodors, attornies, notaries, follicitors, and other 
 *' fuch harpies, who fill the cities in Spain, and prey on poor 
 *' men, &:c." The building has a handfome modern front. 
 
 The palace in which Philip 11. and III. were born, and which 
 was afterwards inhabited by Charles V. is now quite decayed, 
 and nothing left but the bare walls ; though all the modern com- 
 pilers, fuch as Salmon, la Martiniere, &c. continue to defcribe 
 the furniture, pidures, plate, &c. fuppofed to be contained in it. 
 
 As I have mentioned Ch-arles V. I fhall add a fhort quotation 
 from the Abbe de la Porte : he fays, he was in 175'; in the 
 monaftery of St. Juft, which is fituated between the cities 
 of Talavera la Reyna and Placentia ; and that one of the 
 monks (hewed him the place where that emperor had lodged. 
 *' There, faid he fneeringly, there is the melancholy folitude 
 
 K 2 " where
 
 68 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 *' where that monarch, become imbecile and devout ; pafled his 
 " days in winding up clocks, in teazing the friars, in giving 
 " himfelf the discipline, in daubing the walls of his cell with 
 *' fcraps on predeftination and grace, in ftunning himfelf with 
 " reflecting on the abandonment of all his crowns, and in re- 
 *' penting. There he performed the farce of his own burial, put 
 *' himfelf in a coffin, fung for himfelf the de profundis, and 
 *' ihewed all the follies of a diftempered brain. One day when 
 " he went in his turn to wake the novices, at the hour of mat- 
 " tins, one of them, w^hom he fhook too violently, becaufe he 
 *' ftill flept, faid to him, haft thou not troubled the repofe of 
 '• the world long enough, without coming to diflurb that of 
 " peaceable men who have forfaken it !" 
 
 I faw in feveral libraries in Spain, a work in two large folio- 
 volumes, printed in 1614, entitled, Hijloria de la vida y liechos 
 del Eiinperador Carlos V. by Sandoval ; but I was not able to. 
 purchafe it, as it is not to be met with in thebookfellers fhops.. 
 
 The large field called £/ Campo Grande, Is within the walls,, 
 and round it are fifteen churches. On this fpot many thoufands 
 of heretics have been burnt alive, by order of the Inquifition ; 
 among the reft, the famous Dr. Auguftin Cafalla, preacher to 
 Charles V. fuffered that death here in 1559. But, as I have 
 before obferved, none of thefe execrable executions have been 
 committed for thefe laft fourteen years in either of thefe 
 kingdoms. 
 
 The
 
 SPAIN, 69 
 
 The names of the criminals who have been burnt are hung 
 up in the infide of moft of the cathedrals in Spain. 
 
 Here are in all eighty churches. 
 
 The Pla9a Mayor is arched round ; the houfes are of three 
 ftories, and of equal height, but make a very fliabby appearance. 
 
 The Royal Chancery is a very large and beautiful building, of 
 the Tufcan order. The other Royal Chancery is at Granada. 
 
 In the cathedral here, the communion table has at each end a 
 wooden ftatue of an angel as large as the life, and drefled with 
 clothes, fuch as the eunuchs wear when they reprefent ferious 
 operas ! — This church is embelliflied with a magnificent organ, 
 with horizontal pipes. 
 
 In the church of St. Paul, of the Dominicans, are two good 
 pidures over the great altar, by Barthol. Cardenas, a Portuguefe 
 painter ; there is likewife a large piece in the choir, reprefenting 
 the Aflumption, by the fame artift. Near this altar are two 
 ftatues of the duke and duchefs of Lerma kneeling, in bronze 
 gilt, by Pompey Leonii 
 
 In tlie Chapter-houfe is a St.. James, well painted by El Mudo.. 
 
 In the Sacrifty are the portraits of all the popes, including his- 
 late holinefs Clement XIV. They are but indifferently done*.
 
 70 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 Here are moreover twenty-two large pidures of various faints 
 fuffering martyrdom, painted by different raafters : they are 
 in general well executed, though the fubjeds are difagreeable. 
 1 was alfo fliewn a coloured wax head of St. Paul, very finely 
 formed by John Alfonfo Abrille. The other good pidures are 
 two Madonnas, a St. Sebaftian, and a dead Chrift with two 
 apoftles : this laft appears to have been painted by Baffano. The 
 outfide of this church is Gothic, loaded with carvings in ftone. 
 I ihall never mention any thing regarding jewels, gold and 
 filver lamps, candlefticks, vafes, cafkets for relics, veftments for- 
 the priefts, &c. which are kept in cuftody in immenfe quanti- 
 ties in moftofthe chief churches in Spain, as I always declined 
 feeing them. As to the relics, the priefts who fhew them, per- 
 ceiving that I defpifed fuch vile trumpery, honeftly joined me 
 in laughing at them, and forbore fhewing me any more ; 
 neither did they attempt to tell me any lies about miracles, 
 &c . &c. 
 
 I vifited many other churches, but found none of them 
 worthy of notice, except that of St. Benedid, wherein are fome 
 of the works in painting, fculpture, and architedure of Alonfo 
 Berruguete, who was born near this city, and died at Madrid 
 in 1545. About half a league out of the city, on the other fide 
 of the river, is a very large convent of Jeronymites, divided in- 
 to three cloifters, of two ftories each ; the one of the Doric, and 
 the other of the Corinthian order. 
 
 la
 
 ■ SPAIN. ji 
 
 In the Sacrlfly is an altar, of which the painting, fculpture, 
 and architedure, are all by the above mentioned Berruguete. 
 Here are twelve fmall pictures on copper, reprefenting the Hif- 
 tory of the Life of Chrift, by Luca Giordano. 
 
 Valladolid is a very flill, lonely, and melancholy city. I left 
 It on the 9th of March, and travelled to Olmedo : having dined 
 at Valdeftillas, we pafled over three ftone bridges, one of 
 three arches, one of a fmgle arch, and one of five. The road 
 was flat and fandy; on each fide are corn-fields, vines, and 
 pine forefts. Here I obferved feveral buftards, and a great 
 number of hawks, blue jays, and magpies. Olmedo is a wall- 
 ed town, but nearly ruined. 
 
 March 10. This morning we pafled over a bridge, and foon; 
 after I caufed the carriage to flop, and went on horfeback to fee 
 the caftle of Coca, which is a very large fquare edifice, of two 
 ftories in height, entirely built of bricks, the mafonry of which 
 is extremely neat : it belongs to the counts of Alcala, and is 
 encompafled with a dry ditch : the walls are embattled, and a 
 turret rifes from the center. It is built near the town of the fame 
 name, which is walled, and as much ruined as Olmedo. Coca 
 was anciently a confiderable place, but was deftroyed, with 
 twenty thoufand inhabitants, after a long fiege, by Lucullus. It 
 is faid the emperor Theodofius the Great was born here. 
 
 I returned to the chaife, and entered into a forefi: of pines, 
 ai^d afterwards travelled along the banks of a fmall lake, 00.
 
 72 
 
 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 which thoufands of wild ducks were fwimming. I alio obferv- 
 ed fevcral herons near the edges. We dined at a Imall village, 
 where there are many caves dug in the land for preierving of 
 wine, and paflfed the night at the village of St. Mary. All this. 
 day v^e had before us the profped of the long chain of mountains 
 then covered with fnow, which divide the two Caftiles. 
 
 March II. The road over which we travelled this day, was 
 fomewhat hilly. We arrived at noon at the city of Segovia, 
 •which* ftands on a hill, at the foot of which runs the fmall river 
 Erefma. Segovia is walled, and is about eighty-eight miles 
 diftant from Valladolid. Between 01m edo and this city we faw 
 vaft numbers of fheep, the wool of which is accounted the fineft 
 in" Spain. I made enquiry about the flieep-walks, and concern- 
 ing the method of managing thofe animals, of which a very juft 
 account is given by the Abbe de la Porte, in the fixteenth volume 
 of his Voyageur Francoh^ prmted in Paris in 1772 : it is as 
 follows. 
 
 " Numberiefs flocks of fheep cover the plains of Segovia, and 
 ** produce that excellent wool, which makes fuch an important 
 *' branch of the commerce of Spain. The kings were anciently 
 *' the proprietors of the greatefl: part of thofe flocks : they have 
 " been fucceflively alienated for ftate exigencies. Philip I. was 
 " obliged to fell the laft fourteen thoufand fheep which belonged 
 " to the crown, to defray the expences of war. They are, how- 
 *' ever, fl;ill the objed of the government's particular attention : 
 
 " in
 
 SPAIN. 'jT^ 
 
 " in efFe^t, there is a confiderablc exportation of wool, which is 
 " ufed all over Europe. Docs its fuperiority depend only on the 
 " climate, or on a particular method of managing the fheep ? 
 " Thofc that cmhrace the latter opinion fay, that there are in 
 " Spain two forts of flieep, very different in their fleece, though 
 " they -appear to be of the fame breed. The iheep with coarfe 
 " fleeces remain all the year in the fame place, and in the win- 
 " ter nights* they are fliut up in a fold. On the contrary, the 
 " others live always in the open air, and travel twice a year. 
 " During the fummer they fl:ray on the mountains of Leon, of 
 " Old Caftile, of Cuenfa, and of Arragon : they pafs the v/in- 
 " ter on the temperate plains of la Mancha, Eftramadura, and 
 " Andalusia, According to very exaft calculations, there are 
 " reckoned in Spain more than five millions of thofe travelling 
 " Iheep with fine wool. It may eafily be imagined how much 
 ♦' care, intelligence, and adivity is requifite from thofe who have 
 " the charge of condu(5ting thofe vaft flocks. 
 
 " They muft take particular heed not to let them want fait, 
 " cfpecially after their return from the fouth to their fummer 
 " pafturages. That commodity keeps them in health, and 
 " hardens their conftitution, which contributes infinitely to the 
 " beauty of the wool. After having paffed the winter in a tem- 
 " perate climxate, they fet out in the month of April for the 
 *' mountains. 
 
 " The fheep themfelves £hov/ their defire of changing their 
 "place, by many unquiet motions; and that defire is fo 
 
 L " ftrong
 
 7+ TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 " ftrong, that the fhepherds muft be very watchful to prevent 
 *' their efcaping. 
 
 *' They begin to fhear them in the month of May, either on 
 *' the road, or after their arrival. It Is neceffary to wait for fine 
 " weather, for if their wool was not dry enough, the fleeces be- 
 *• ing piled on each other would ferment and fpoll. Towards 
 *' the end of July, the number of rams neceflary for propaga- 
 *' tion are mixed with the Iheep. Six or feven rams are fuffici- 
 *' ent for a hundred flieep: out of a numerous flock of rams the 
 *' ftrongeft and handfomefl: are chofen for that purpofe. There 
 *' are in general very few fheep in thefe travelling flocks, though. 
 ** their wool is finer, and their flefh better than that of the rams, 
 *' but the fleece of thefe is heavier, they live longer, and by^ 
 *' that means their total product is more confiderable. It is 
 " efteemed very eflTential to befmear thefe animals in the month 
 " of September, from the neck to the root of the tail, with a 
 ** ferruginous earth mixed with water. It is fald that this un^ 
 ** guent, mixing with the greafe of the wool, becomes impene- 
 •' trable to rain and to cold, and that it abforbs part of the tranf- 
 " piratlon, which would otherwife render the fleece rough and 
 «' coarfe. At the end of September, the flieep begin their march. 
 ** towards the lower plains. They travel one hundred and fifty 
 ** leagues in forty days, and the time comes when the flicep drop 
 ♦' their lambs. The fhepherds firfl: feparate thofe which are fteril 
 " from thofe which are fruitful : thefe are guided to the beft places 
 " of ftielter, and thofe to the coldeft parts of the diftrift. The fpots 
 
 *• which.
 
 SPAIN. >j^ 
 
 " which produce the beft and mod abundant herbs, are alfo allotted 
 •' to the youngeft lambs; that, by being fortified with good 
 " food, they may be able to depart with the others. Their tail 
 " is cut off within five inches of the rump, to keep them the 
 " cleaner. It is an error to believe that flieep prefer aromatic 
 " plants to others, and that they are more beneficial to them. 
 " It is the tender herbs that grow between thofe plants, that af- 
 *' ford the moft wholefome nourifhment for them, and that gives 
 *' a good tafte to their flefh. They mud never be led to feed till 
 •' the fijn has diffipated the morning dew, and mull not be allow- 
 •' ed to drink immediately after a hail ftorm ; becaufe that wa- 
 *' ter, or wet grafs, renders them melancholy, and makes them 
 " languifh and die. 
 
 *' It appears then to be certain, that the fijperlorlty of the 
 " wool in this country is not to be attributed to the climate only; 
 *' and that it depends in a great meafureon the precautions above 
 •' mentioned ; becaufe, in the lame climate, the fheep of Anda- 
 " lusia, which are of the fame breed, but which are not taken 
 " the like care of, have their wool much coarfer. Would it be 
 *' advantageous in other countries to allot large trads of land for 
 " the pafturage of thefe animals ; and would it be as much fo 
 ** to the proprietor as if he had made thofe lands ferve for other 
 " purpofes ? In thofe countries where lands are fuccefsfully cul- 
 ♦' cultivated, flocks of fheep muft be confidered more for the 
 ** ufe they are of to agriculture, than for their fleeces. Dung 
 " is there much more necefl'ary than wool. The travelling flieep 
 
 La " furnlflv
 
 76 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 *' furnifli no manure when they wander in the mountains, fo 
 '" that they niLift be confined together on lands which require 
 " cultivation*." 
 
 In the Gentleman's Magazines for May and June 1764, is 
 an account of thefe fheep- walks, addreflcd to Mr. Peter CoUln- 
 fon, which is very accurate, and from which the following ex- 
 trads are a neceffary addition. 
 
 »' From computations made with the utmofl accuracy, it has 
 " appeared, that there are five millions of fine woolled fliecp iii 
 " Spain, and that the wool and flefh of a flock of ten thoufand 
 " fheep, produce yearly about twenty-four reals a head, which 
 " we will fuppofe to be nearly the value of twelve Englifh fix- 
 " pences ; of thefe but one goes to the owner, three to the king, 
 *' and the other eight to the expences of paflure, tythes, fliep- 
 *' herds, dogs, fliearing. Sec. 
 
 " Thus the annual produ(ft of the five millions of flieep, 
 *' amounts to thirty-feven millions and a half of fix-pences, a 
 " little more or lefs, of which there is about three millions and 
 " a half for the owners, above fifteen millions enter into the 
 " treafury, and feventeen millions and a half go to the benefit of 
 •" the public. 
 
 * In the book entitled Sccretos de /fgricultura, by Fr. Mig. Auguftln, 
 1617, are the methods of curing the infirmities offlieep, Sec. This booic has 
 been very often reprinted. It is a large quano volume. 
 
 "Tea
 
 SPAIN. 'jj 
 
 " Ten thoufand fheep compofe a flock, which is divided in- 
 " to ten tribes : one man has the condu>S of all. He muft be 
 " the owner of four or five hundred fheep, ftrong, a£llvc, vigi- 
 " lant, intelligent in pafture, in the weather, and in the difeafcs 
 " of fhcep. He has abfolute dominion over fifty fhepherds, and 
 " fifty dogs, five of each to a tribe. He chufes them, he 
 *' chaftifes them, or difcharges them at will ; he is the prcepo- 
 *^ Jit lis, or chief fliepherd of the whole flock. One may judge 
 *' of his importance by his falary; he has forty pounds a year 
 " and a horfc ; whereas the firft fhepherd of a tribe has but 
 " forty fhillings a year, the fccond thirty-four, the third twen- 
 " ty-five, the fourth fifteen, and a boy ten (hillings a year. All 
 " their allowance is two pounds of bread a day each. They may 
 " keep a few goats and.fheep in the flock, but the wool is for 
 " the mafl:er ; they have only the Iambs and the flefh. 
 
 " The chief fliepherds give them three fhillings in April, and 
 " three in Odober, by way of regale for the road. They are ex- 
 •' pofed every day to all weathers, and every night lie in a hut. 
 " Thus fare, and thus live, generally to old age, five-and-twen- 
 " ty thoufand men, with the fame number of dogs of the 
 " large maflifF kind, who arc allowed two pounds of bread a- 
 *' piece a day. 
 
 " The firfl; thing the fliepherd does when the flocks return 
 *' from the South to their fummer downs, is to give them as 
 " much fait as they will eat. Every owner allows his flock of a 
 
 *' thoufaud
 
 78 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 " thoufand, one hundred arrcbas^ or twenty-five quintals of 
 " fait, which the flock eats in about five months. They eat none 
 " in their journey, nor in their winter walk. This has ever 
 *' been the cuftom, and is the true reafon why the kings of 
 *' Spain cannot raife the price of fait to the height it is in France, 
 *' for it would tempt the fhepherds to ftint the fheep ; which, it 
 *' is believed, would weaken their conftitutions, and degrade 
 *' the wool . The fliepherd places fifty or fixty flat flones, at 
 *' about five paces diflant from each other, he fl:rews fait upon 
 *' each ftone ; he leads the flock flowly among the flones, and 
 *' each fheep eats to its liking. 
 
 " The fleeces of three rams generally weigh twenty-five 
 *' pounds : there mufl: be the wool of four wethers, or of five 
 *' ewes, to equal that weight. 
 
 " The latter end of September the fheep begin their march 
 *' towards the low plains : the itinerary is marked out by im- 
 *' memorial cuftom, and is better regulated than the march of 
 " troops. They feed freely in all the wilds and commons they 
 " pafs through, but as they muft neceffarily traverfe many cul- 
 *' tivated fpots, the proprietors of them are obliged by law, to 
 " leave a paflage open for the fheep, through vine-yards, olive- 
 " yards, corn-fields, and pafture-lands common to towns ; and 
 *' thefe pafiages mufl be at leaft ninety yards wide, that they 
 *' may not be too crowded in a narrow lane. Thefe paiTages are 
 *' aften fo long, that the fheep march fix or feven leagues a day 
 
 to
 
 SPAIN. 79 
 
 " to get into the open wilds, where the fhepherd walks flowly, 
 " to let them feed at eafe, and reft; they never flop, but 
 " march two leagues a day at leaft, without any intervening day 
 " of repofe, ever following the fliepherd, always feeding, or 
 " feeking with their heads to the ground, till they get to the end. 
 *' of their journey. 
 
 " The chief (hepherd's firft care is to fee that each tribe is 
 " conducted to the fame diftrid: it fed In the year before, and 
 " where the fheep were yeaned, which they think prevents a 
 " variation in the wool, though indeed this requires but little 
 " care, for the flieep would go to that very fpot of their own 
 " accord. His next care is to fix the toils where the Iheep pafs 
 "• the night, left they fliould ftray and become a prey to wolves." 
 
 Thefe toils are made of efparto, gratnen fparteriim, or genifta 
 Hifpanka, in Latin. Mr. Ray calls it mat-weed : it is a foft 
 rufhy fhrub, which grows to the height of about a yard, chiefly 
 about Murcia and Carthagena. Sandals, mats, bafkets, and 
 ropes are made of it : it floats, whereas hemp fmks : it is called. 
 Bofs by the Englifli failors. 
 
 The meflics are a foot wide, and of the thicknefs of a finger;,, 
 fo that they ferve inftead of hurdles. 
 
 " The fhcpherds make their awn huts with ftakes, branchesy, 
 " and brambles ; for which end, and for firing, they are allowed 
 
 u by
 
 ?o TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 " by the law to cut ofl' one branch from every forefl-tree. In the 
 " month ofMarch they pay the twentieth Iamb; the other half 
 " tythc is paid in the winter-walk. They faw off part of their 
 " horns, that the rams may neither hurt one another, nor the 
 " ewes. They rentier impotent the lambs doomed for docile 
 " bell-wethers, to walk at the head of the tribe : they make no 
 " incifion, the fhepherd turns the tefticles many times about 
 *♦ in thejcrotum, till he twills the fpermatic veffels as a rope, 
 *' and they wither away without any danger. 
 
 " As foon as the month of April comes about, the fhepherds 
 " muft exert all their vigilance left the fheep (hould efcape ; it 
 " has often happened, that a tribe has ftolen a forced march of 
 " three or four leagues upon a fleepy fhepherd ; but he is fure to 
 " find them ; and there are many examples of three or four ftray- 
 " ed fheep walking a hundred leagues to the very place they fed 
 " the year before. 
 
 '• Some of the fhearing houfes are capable of containing twenty 
 " thoufand Iheep ; the ewes are fo tender, that if they were ex- 
 " pofed immediately after fhearing to the air of a bleak night, 
 " they would all perilh. 
 
 " There are one hundred and twenty-five fhearers employed 
 " to flicar a flock of ten thoufand fheep : a man fliears twelve 
 " ewes a day, and but eight rams ; the reafon of this difference 
 " is, not only becaufe the rams have larger bodies, flronger, and 
 
 more
 
 SPAIN. 8i 
 
 " more wool, but becaufe the fhearers dare not tie their feet, as 
 " they do thofe of the unrefifling ewes. Experience has taught, 
 " that the bold rebellious ram would ftruggle even to fufFocation 
 *' in captivity under the fhears : they gently lay him down, they 
 *' ftroke his belly, and beguile him of his fleece. A certain 
 " number of flieep are led into the great fhelter-houfe, which 
 *' is a parallelogram of four or five hundred feet long, and one 
 " hundred feet wide, where they remain all day. As many as 
 " the fhearers judge they can difpatch next day, are driven from 
 " the fhelter-houfe into a long, narrow, and low place, where 
 " they remain all night, crowded together as clofe as pofTible, 
 " that they may fweat plentifully, v.'hich foftens the wool for 
 ** the fhears, and oils their edges. They are led by degrees in 
 *' the morniijg to the fpacious fliearing hall, adjoining to the 
 " fwea:ting-room. The fhepherd carries them off, as faft as they 
 " are fheared, to be marked with tar ; and as this operation can 
 *' only be performed upon one at a time, it gives an opportunity 
 *' to the fhepherds to cull out for the butchery all the fheep of 
 •' the flock which have outlived their teeth. The fheared 
 " fheep go to the fields to feed a little, if it be fine weather, and 
 " they return in the evening to pafs the night in the yard before 
 " the houfe, within the fhelter of the walls; but if it be cold 
 " and cloudy they go into the houfe : they are thus brought by 
 " degrees to bear the open air, and th-eir firft days journies from 
 " the fhearing-houfe are fhort. 
 
 " The wool is divided into three forts : the back and belly 
 *' ^give the fuperfine, the neck and fides give the fine, and the 
 
 M breaft,
 
 82 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 " breaft, fhoulders, and thighs the coarfe wool. It is fold af- 
 *' ter it is wafhed ; for, as it never lofes lefs than half its weight 
 " in wafhing, and often more, when the fweating is violent, 
 *' half the carriage is faved." 
 
 The firft objed of my attention in Segovia was the famous 
 aquedud, the building of which is attributed to the Goths, to 
 Hercules, to the emperor Trajan, &c. Diego Colmenares, 
 feems to make it cotemporary with the pyramids of Egypt, as- 
 he fays there is much fimilitude between them and this aque- 
 dudt ; and adds, that this is of a very different order of archi- 
 tedure from any of the five ufed by the Romans : but it is moft 
 generally believed to have been ereded by Trajan *. There is a 
 range of one hundred and eighteen arches, over forty-three of 
 which there is an equal number of others ; the total is one hun- 
 dred and fixty-one : thegreatefl height of this building is one 
 hundred and two feet. The whole is built with Hones of about 
 three feet long, and two feet thick, without any morter or cement ; 
 but thofe on the top of all are joined by cramp-irons. There are 
 many houfes built about this aquedud, which prevent a com- 
 plete and general view of it f : the two largefl: arches ferve as . 
 paffages, which lead to the Plaza del Azogucjo, An Englifh 
 gentleman of my acquaintance, with two of his companions, 
 walked over the top of the aquedud, which is but eight feet, 
 broad, and without any parapet. On the whole, it is one of 
 
 ♦ See Clarke, p. 182. Caimo, tom^ ii, p. 156. Florez. Montfaucon, &c.. 
 + See the annexed plato. 
 
 the
 
 SPAIN. 83 
 
 tlie nobleft and moft perfedl monuments of antiquity now exift- 
 ing, and is at prefent as entire as when it was firft erected. 
 The Spaniards call it el Puente, or the Bridge, which is a very- 
 improper name *. 
 
 I afterwards went to the Alcazar, or royal palace, fituated 
 on a rock, detached by a deep dry ditch from the city, with 
 which it communicates by a ftrong ftone bridge. It was built 
 by the Moors in the eighth century ; was afterwards inhabited 
 by the kings of Caftile, and is now ufed for a ftate prifon : 
 there were thirteen Turkifh corfair captains confined in it at 
 the time I was there. Part of the palace is converted into a mi-* 
 litary fchool, in 'which eighty cadets are educated, who alfo re- 
 fide here. This is the caftle of Segovia mentioned in Gil Bias, 
 '^hich is an original French work of Mr. le Sage, and not a 
 tranflation from the Spanifli, as has been imagined. 
 
 The caftle is built of white ftone, a tower rifes from the center, 
 environed with many turrets; the roof of the whole is covered 
 with lead. In the royal faloon, round the wall, are fifty-two 
 ftatues of painted wood ; they reprefent a feries of the kings 
 and queens of Spain, fitting on thrones, and of feveral eminent 
 perfons, all as large as the life, with an infcription under each. 
 The ceiling of this room, and of feveral others, is fo well gilt, 
 
 * I faw the Pont du Gard near Nimes in 1768, and found it to be one 
 iiUTidred and forty-four feet in height, but it has three rows of arches, one 
 above another ; it was built by Agrippa, 
 
 INl 2 that
 
 84 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 that though it probably was done feven centuries ago, it appear* 
 quite frefh and new. 
 
 I was fhewn the cabinet where Alfonfo X. furnamed the Im- 
 pious and the Wife, compofed his Aftronomical Tables, in 
 1260: he was here ftruck by lightning, the marks of which, 
 ftill appear in the wall. 
 
 The cathedral is an old Gothic building, with a high fquare 
 tower, but contains nothing worth notice, except the old clothes 
 of fome Jews, who had the misfortune to be burnt by order of 
 the moji holy Inquifition in the laft century. 
 
 The mint is fituated at the bottom of the city, upon thefmall 
 
 river Erefraa : the whole machinery for coining is moved- 
 
 by water-wheels, by means of which the metal is weighs 
 
 ed, cut, beaten, ftamped, and milled, as it were in a moment. 
 
 This is the moft ancient of the three mints in Spain ; the other 
 
 two are at Seville and at Madrid. I here obtained fpecimens ii> 
 
 gold, filver, and copper, of the new coinage ; the fmalleft 
 
 piece in copper is called a maravedi, one hundred and fifty-^ 
 
 three of which are of equal value with our fhilling : the real da. 
 
 plata is a filver piece, and the pefo de oro a gold piece, of the 
 
 fame fize and ftamp as the tnaravediy nine of the firft are equal 
 
 to two {hillings, and the value of the latter is two ninths of our 
 
 pound fterling. There has been an univerfal new coinage of all 
 
 the Spanifh gold, filver, and copper money, though the old 
 
 coin^;
 
 SPAIN. 85 
 
 coins ftill retain their value, and are equally current with the 
 new. The impreffion on one fide of the copper coins reprefenta 
 the profile of his majefty, the infcription is Carolus III. D. G. 
 Hifp. Rex, 1773, and on the reverfe quarterly a caftle and a 
 lion, being the arms of Caftile and Leon, with the arms of. 
 France in the center, without any infcription : the milling re- 
 prefents a wreath of leaves. The impreffions upon the new fil- 
 Yer and gold coins differ very little from thofe in copper; the 
 infcription on one fide is Carolus HI. Dei G. 1772, and on the. 
 reverfe, Hijpaniarum Rex :. the arms are fiamped on thefe pieces,, 
 crowned with a regal crown, and at the bottom have a pomegra- 
 nate, which is the arms of the kingdom of Granada., Thofe 
 which are ftruck at Segovia have a fmall flamp of four of the: 
 arches of the aqueduct on one fide of the head : thofe coined af 
 Madrid have a capital M, with a crown over it j and thofe thaL 
 are fabricated in Seville have an S, 
 
 There are fbur new copper coins ; a piece of one maravedi ; 
 an ochavo, or one of two ; a quarto, or one of four ; and a piece . 
 called dos quartos, confifting of eight. Five new filver pieces,. 
 Qneof a fingle real, one of two,, one of four, one of ten, and, 
 one of twenty reals, which laft is called a hard dollar, pefo duro^. 
 piaftre, or piece-of-elght. The four new gold coins are, the 
 piece of tv/enty reals, that of feventy-five- reals ten maravedis, , 
 that of one hundred and fifty reals and twenty maravedis, and/ 
 that of three hundred reals and fix maravedis. But, in common, 
 currency, when a fmgle piece is exchanged for fmaller money,., 
 
 th^j
 
 U TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 "the odd maravedis are not accounted : ninety reals are equal to 2 
 pound fterling when at par. 
 
 Some of the coins prior to thefe have whimfical combinations 
 of the letters compofing the words CAROLVS and PHILIPPVS, 
 which at firft view appear more like the arbitrary marks of 
 merchants upon their bales of goods, than as cyphers, for which 
 the inventor probably defigned them. The milling on the filver 
 coins is a circle between two oblique lines, thus "Offorrorro; 
 that on the gold coins nearly refembles that on our guineas *, 
 
 March 12. I left Segovia this day, and travelled to the royal 
 feat of St. lldefonfo, which is alfo called la Grange and Balfain. 
 The diftance is but two leagues : the road is very ftony, and on 
 each fide we faw vaft herds of deer, many hares, and very nu- 
 merous covies of partridges, which live here in perfed. fecurity, 
 
 " And, undifturb'd by guns, in quiet fleep," 
 becaufe hunting and fhooting in the proper feafon are free to 
 every body all over Spain, excepting four leagues round Ma- 
 drid, or round any of the royal feats, the game being there 
 referved for his majefly alone, who daily amufes himfelf with 
 ihooting. 
 
 The weather was cold, and the puddles on the road were covered 
 with a Ikim of ice as thick as a halfpenny. The town, which 
 
 * See Clarke's account of the old coins, p. 267. 
 
 contains
 
 sr P A I N. 87 
 
 eorrtaln^ about fix thoufand inhabitants, is built at the bottom 
 of a long ridge of mountains, which were then wholly covered 
 with fnow. I called on Mr. John Dowling, an Irifhman, who 
 has eredted a large building, in which he carries on a manufac- 
 ture of knives, fcilTors, razors, fword-blades, and other fleel' 
 wares : his workmen are chiefly from Birmingham. This gen- 
 tleman was fo kind as to accompany me during my ftay here. 
 We firft vifited the royal fabric for plate-glafs, where I faw 
 glafles of one hundred and twenty French inches by feventy-two,. 
 which are the largeft that were ever made *. Thefe plates are 
 not made for fale, but only for the king's ufe ; his palaces are 
 furniflied with them, and he prefents fome of them to his nobi- 
 lity. There are alfo fix glafs-houfes, for the fabric of bottles, 
 drinking-glafles, &c. for fale. Mr. Dowling has likewife- 
 ereded a machine which poliflies forty-eight plates of glafs. 
 at a time. 
 
 I dined this day at Dr. Matthew Lawler's, an Irilh ecclefiaftic 
 who refides here. 
 
 The inns here are deteftable ; and during the time that the 
 court refides here, which is annually from the 2 ift of July to the 
 8th of October, the expeace of living is to the highefl degree 
 extravagant. 
 
 * I {aw a looking-glafs in Burleigh-houfe, the feat of the earl of Exeter, 
 near Stamford, which was made in London, and was feven feet by fo'ur; and: 
 one at the fabric in the Eauxbourg St. Antoine in Paris, of eight feet ten,., 
 hy fix feet two inches,
 
 88 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 The court pafs the reft of the year as follows : from the 9th 
 ef Odlober to the icth of December, in the Efcurial ; then at Ma- 
 drid till the 5th of January, from which time they are at the 
 Pardo till the Holy-week, which is fpent at Madrid, and the re- 
 mainder at Aranjuez. The ambafladors and foreign minifters 
 all accompany the king to thefe four feats, where they are 
 obliged to keephoufes at a great expence, excepting at the Pardo, 
 which is but about fix miles from Madrid. 
 
 The royal palace of St. Ildefonfo is built of brick, plaiftered 
 and painted; it is two ftories high, and the garden-front has 
 thirty-one windows, and twelve rooms in a fuite. In the mid- 
 dle is fituated the church. The gardens are on a flope, on the 
 top of which is the great refervoir of water, called here el Mar ^ 
 the fea, which fupplies the fountains : this refervoir is furnifhed 
 from the torrents which pour down the mountains. The great 
 entry is fomewhat fimilar to that of Verfailles, and with a large 
 iTon palifade. In the gardens are twenty-feven fountains ; the 
 bafons are of white marble, and the ftatues, which are all excel- 
 lent, and equal to any thing of the kind I ever faw, even in Italy, 
 are of lead, bronzed and gilt : thofe of Fame, Andromeda, La- 
 tona, Neptune, Diana, and the Fruit-Bafket, are the moft con- 
 fpicuous. Here are two noble cafcades, of ten falls each Thefe 
 gardens are alfo ornamented with fixty-one very fine marble 
 ftatues as large as the life, with twenty-eight marble vafes, and 
 with twenty leaden vafes gilt. For the diverfion of the younger 
 branches of the royal family, here is a mall of five hundred- 
 
 and
 
 S P A I N. . 89 
 
 and eighty paces in length. Near which Is a large labyrinth. 
 The gardens were laid out by a Frenchman, named Bouteleux. 
 The fountain of Fame, which is the loweft in fituation, fpouts 
 water to the height of one hundred and thirty-three feet eleven 
 lines, French meafurc, which is exactly that of the weather-cock 
 on the top of the church fteeple. 
 
 The beft (latues in the garden are the following : 
 
 The Four Elements. Juno, Neptune, Saturn, and a Nymph. 
 
 Four allegorical figures, reprefenting Paftoral, Lyric, Heroic> 
 and Satiric Poefy. 
 
 Four Fames and two Satyrs ; a Cleopatra ; two Lions ; the 
 Four Seafons ; the Four Quarters of the World ; Apollo and the 
 Nine Mufes ; four HuntreiTes. 
 
 Four groups of Cephalus and Procris •, Endymion and Diana; 
 Zephyrus and Flora ; and Bacchus and Ariadne. 
 
 Apollo, Daphne, Mercury, Pandora, Ceres, Bacchus, Atalanta, 
 Lucretia, Faith, Glory, Munificence. 
 
 The upper part of the palace contains many valuable paint- 
 ings, and the lower part antique flatues, bufls, and bafTo re- 
 lievos. All the rooms have their ceilings painted in frefco, and 
 are decorated with large looklng-glafies made here. The floors 
 are all of checquered marble, and the tables of the fineft Spanifh 
 marbles of various forts. The windovvs, which reach from the 
 ceiling to the floor, confift of large plates of glafs fet in lead gilt. 
 
 N The
 
 90 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 The paintings that arc mofl remarkable are the following * : 
 
 A fmall piece byMieris. 
 
 Four by Teniers, which reprefent dancing. 
 
 A large St. Sebaftian. 
 
 Chrift and the Money-Tellers, n. f. 
 
 A fleeping Cupid, with a fhell. Guido. 
 
 A St. John, like that at Bologna by Raphael. 
 
 Charles V. on horfeback, a fmall copy of that by Vandyke, 
 which is in the pofleffion of lady Leicefter, at her feat at Holkam, 
 in Norfolk. 
 
 A Lucretia, n. f. 
 
 The Marriage of St. Catherine, n. f. 
 
 Two pieces by BaflTano, reprefenting Suppers. 
 
 Two large pictures of Fowls, by Hondekoter. 
 
 A St. Suaire with four Angels. Amiconi. 
 
 The Marriage of St. Catherine, {■ 1. n. f P. Veronefe. 
 
 A Boy and Girl with a Bird's Neft. Mieris. 
 
 A copy of Guidons Madonna, which is engraven by Mr.. 
 Strange. 
 
 A Man and Woman telling of Money, by Reinier Marinus, 
 1538, much in the ftyle of Quintin Matfys, the celebrated: 
 blackfmith. 
 
 Two by Watteau. 
 
 Four naked Cupids by Rubens, within a garland of flowers ■ 
 and fruits, by another hand. 
 
 * n. f. ftands for the natural fize ; w. 1. for whole length; {- and -i ].. 
 for half and three quarter length. . 
 
 The,
 
 SPAIN. 9, 
 
 The infide of a chui'ch. P. Nef. 
 
 A Copperfmith's Shop, by BalTano. 
 
 A Whimfical Temptation of St. Anthony. 
 
 The portrait of a Pope fitting, ^ 1. n. f. 
 
 Four large Views of MefTina, Baya, the Grotto of Paufilipo, 
 and the Strada Chiaya in Naples. 
 
 Two Views of St. Mark's Square in Venice, hy Can.aletti. 
 
 Six very large and fine Landfcapes by Claude Lorraine. 
 
 A Man with his Wife, Maid, and Child, w. 1. n. f. L. 
 Jordaans. 
 
 A portrait of Erafmus. 
 
 Two Madonnas, by Titian. 
 
 Two Buftards. 
 
 Four very large pidures, with cattle, &c. by Snyders, 
 
 A Roman Charity, \r. 1. n. f. 
 
 Twelve Heads in Crayons, by the late Queen-mother in 1 72 1 1 
 their chief merit confifts in being painted by a queen. 
 
 A large and good pidure, reprefenting a Pope, fix Cardinals, 
 and many Dodlors aflembled In council ; the figures are about fi.K 
 inches in fize. 
 
 A pidure thirty feet in length, containing upwards of fixty 
 figures as large as the life, by Solimene : it reprefents the Sup- 
 per of Herod, when the head of St. John was brought in after 
 the Decollation. 
 
 The Twelve Apoftles, by Rubens. 
 
 Four fmall Baflanos. 
 
 A Bacchanal, a Satyr, and two Cupids, w. 1. n. f, 
 
 N 2 An
 
 92 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 An extraordinary reprcfentation of men and women fuppoled 
 to be ftarved. 
 
 A copy of the Venus of Titian, which is in the Medicis Col- 
 ledion at Florence. 
 
 A fmall piece, Sufan and the two chajle Elders. P. Veronefe. 
 
 In a room pannelled with feven very large looking-glafles, are 
 four paintings reprefenting defigns in architecture. 
 
 Three very fine pieces of tapeftry, by P. Ferloni, reprefenting 
 pope Benedidl XIV. St. John, and St. Cecilia. 
 
 Two figures of Women's Heads, in mofaic ovals. 
 
 In the apartments of the prince of Afturias, I faw the Hiftory 
 of Don Quixote in feventy-two pieces, cut out in paper, by 
 Pedro Lazo de la Vega. I afterwards faw this man in Malaga, and 
 employed him in cutting a piece for me : he is now in London. . 
 
 Avery good Italian Madonna. 
 
 A picture by Baflano. A large Teniers. 
 
 A fmall bronze model of the Toro Farnefe, and two bronzes . 
 of Marcus Aurelius. 
 
 In this palace is a fmall theatre, the roof of which is fuftain-- 
 ed by ten verde cintico marble, and alabafter columns. There 
 is another theatre in the town, but not worth feeing. 
 
 The greateft part of the ground-floor of the palace, confift-. 
 ing of twelve rooms, ferves for a repofitory of ftatues, bufts, 
 and bafib relievos ; they are chiefly antique, and of Vvhite. 
 marble, the principalof which are here enumerated..
 
 SPAIN. 93 
 
 In the Firft Room. 
 Leda j two ftatues ; five modern bufts. 
 Ganymede ; three bufts. 
 
 In- the Second. 
 Two coloflal ftatues of Jupiter and Apollo. 
 Three ftatues ; two termini j twelve heads : a head of Ho- 
 mer, modern.. 
 
 In the Third. 
 A woman veiled, by Corradini. 
 Hercules ; two ftatues ; a very fine fmall Seneca, fitting.. 
 
 In the Fourth. 
 Two Cupids with palm-branches, modern. 
 Six ftatues ; a fmall ftatue j two bufts of black marble. 
 
 In the Gallery. 
 
 Neptune in a reclining pofture, larger than the life : this is 
 a capital ftatue. 
 
 Ten Egyptian Idols ftanding, and one fitting oi black bafaltes.: 
 thefe reprefent Ifis, Ofiris, Semiramis, Priefts and Prieftefles» 
 with uncommon Symbols. 
 
 Two large ftatues, and a fmaller one. 
 
 Fifty-fix bufts : thirty-four baftb relievos of heads, &c. 
 
 A fmall Laocoon in baflb relievo. 
 
 AbafTa.'
 
 9 + 
 
 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 A badb relievo of alabafter ; the heads of the figures are of 
 porphyry. 
 
 A very line and large baflb relievo of Olimpia. 
 
 Four columns, erxh a lingle block, ten feet high, two of 
 which are of 'verde antico., and the other two of Grecian 
 alabafter. 
 
 In the Fifth Room. 
 A circular altar of Bacchus, with feven figures, fifteen Inches 
 each, in baflb relievo. 
 
 Four heads j a modern Cupid ; and a modern head. 
 
 In the Sixth. 
 A coloflal Cleopatra, " recumbent:" this is a very fine ftatue. 
 Two bulls in alto relievo. 
 Four ftatues ; four bufts j two modern bufts. 
 
 The Seventh Room, 
 Which is decorated with fix very large looking-glafles, con- 
 tains two bufts, feven porphyry vafes, and twelve modern bufts 
 ■of coloured marble. 
 
 In the Eighth. * 
 
 A modern fountain of Apollo. 
 Two ftatues ; ten bufts. 
 
 Eight ftatues of the Mufes fitting : the ninth Is in Rome : 
 thefe are of Grecian workmanftiip, and belonged formerly to 
 
 thie
 
 SPAIN. 95 
 
 the queen of Sweden. Figures of thefe ftatues are engraven in 
 Montfaucon's work, and alfo in that of Francifo Aquila. 
 
 In the Ninth Room. 
 Two ftatues ; ten bufls. 
 
 In the Tenth. 
 
 Two very fine Grecian ftatues, which reprefent two young 
 men quite naked, crowned with laurel, one of whom holds a 
 patera in his right hand, and has his left on the fhoulder of the 
 other, who has a torch in each hand, with the one he fets fire 
 to an altar fuppofed to be placed before an idol ; the other arm 
 and torch are behind his back. Thefe ftatues have been defcrib- 
 ed by many antiquaries, and are thought to reprefent Caftor 
 and Pollux : they were once in the pofleflion of the queen of 
 Sweden. 
 
 The celebrated Venus Aphrodite, kneeling with one knee on a v^ 
 large ftiell, called by the French la Venus aiix belles fejfes ; nine 
 ftatues ; fix bufts. 
 
 In the Eleventh. 
 
 Daphne : the upper half is modern. 
 
 A faun, with a kid on his flioulders, and the paftoral crook 
 (pedum J in his right hand : this ftatue is attributed to Praxiteles,, 
 and has been often defcribed. 
 
 Two wild boars in alto relievo ; two ftatues ; three of Venus.. 
 
 A modern copy of the Venus de Medicis, but with a veil on\ 
 her body.
 
 96 T R A V E L S THROUGH 
 
 T he Twelfth, or laft Room contains 
 A circular altar, w'lxh many figures ui baffo relievo, of the 
 
 ;fame fize as that above mentioned. 
 
 A coloflal Venus ; a ftatue ; fix modern bufis. 
 
 Tt\'-o gigantic fl;atues of Cxfar and Pompey, of Grecian ala- 
 
 tafter, but the heads, arms, and feet are of gilt bronze. 
 
 St. Ildefonfo has been defcrlbcd by no other author than Father 
 Caimo, who was here in 1755, becaufe the palace, gardens, 
 and fountains were all begun and finifhed within thefe laft thirty 
 years. His work is very fcarce, being prohibited in all Ca- 
 tholic countries. 
 
 1 had the plcafure of being acquainted with him in Rome m 
 ■1769, when he was fo kind as to prefen't me with his book, 
 which is in four odlavo volumes, in the Italian language, con- 
 taining an account of his travels. He embarked at Genoa for 
 Spain, and landed at Barcelona, near which city he vlfited the 
 convent, which is fituated on the top of the mountain of Mon- 
 ferrato, from thence he proceeded to Madrid through Sarago^a. 
 
 The defcription of thefe places conftitutes the firft volume 
 of his work. 
 
 Half the fccond volume is a defcription of the Efcurial ; the 
 other half is an account of St. Ildefonfo, Segovia, Valladolid, and 
 Salamanca, 
 
 The
 
 SPAIN. 97 
 
 The third volume contains an account of the author's travels 
 to Toledo, Aranjuez, Seville, and Cadiz ; from whence, in 
 1756, he embarked for Lifbon. 
 
 The laft volume begins with a narrative of his voyage from 
 Lifbon to London, of which laft city he gives a very curious ac- 
 count : he afterwards embarked at Harwich for Helvoetfluys, 
 and travelled through Rotterdam, Delft, the Hague, Leyden, 
 Amfterdam, Utrecht, Dort, Antwerp, Bruflels, Ghent, Liflc, 
 and Arras to Paris ; and from thence he proceeded through 
 Lyons to Turin, where he concludes his work. 
 
 On the 1 3th of March I fet out from St. Ildefonfo, and faw at 
 a diftance a grand cafcade of melted fnow tumbling from a 
 mountain. We then pafTed the fpring which fupplies the aque- 
 dudl of Segovia with water. Two leagues farther, I faw the 
 large palace which is now building for the accommodation of 
 part of the royal family : it is of brick, and forms an exadt 
 fquare, of three ftories in height, feventeen windows in length 
 to each front, with a ftone baluftrade on the attic flory, orna- 
 mented with a vafe, anfwering to each window. I paiTed the 
 night in a lenta. 
 
 March 14. We now travelled on the royal road, which 
 is continued ^uite to Madrid : it is broad enough for five car- 
 riages a-breaft, and very good, though carried over mountains. 
 It fnovced all this day. At noon we had attained to the fummit 
 
 O of
 
 98 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 of a mountain, where I obferved a lion couchant, extremely 
 well carved in ftone, holding a fliield between his paws, with a 
 Latin infcription, importing that Ferdinand VL had caufed this 
 road to be made in 1749. 
 
 At the bottom of this mountain, which is called the pafs of 
 Guadarama, is a turnpike, the firft I faw in Spain : I here paid 
 about three fliillings, and having pafled through it, entered in- 
 to New Caftille. We dined at the village of Guadarama ; and» 
 in the evening, arrived at the Efcorial, which is about fifty-fix 
 miles diftant from St. Ildefonfo. The mountains we paffed over 
 this day produce great quantities of pine and fir-trees, and are 
 inhabited by numbers of eagles and vultures. 
 
 The Efcorial is fix leagues and a .half diftant from Madrid, 
 and is fituated in 40° 34' latitude: every half league along the 
 road has a ftone to mark the diftance. There are three poft- 
 houfes, \Yhere, within thefe four years, the king has eftablilhed 
 four-wheeled poft-chaifes, with relays of mules. If a fingle 
 perfon travels in one of thefe chaifes, it muft be drawn by two 
 mules ; if two perfons, they muft take three ; w'hich regulation 
 is after the method of travelling in France. Thefe mules trot as- 
 faft as our poft-horfes, and thus the thirty miles are performed 
 in four hours. Poft-chaifes are in like manner inftituted on 
 the roads to the other three royal feats, but as yet no where - 
 elfe in Spain. 
 
 The
 
 SPAIN. 99 
 
 The village which gave name to this palace, is called cl Efco- 
 rial, derived from the Spanilh word Efco?-ia., which fignifies 
 the fcum of melted metal, becaufe formerly fome iron mines 
 were worked here. 
 
 The whole building confifts of a palace, a church, a convent, 
 and a burial-place for the fovereigns of Spain. It was begun in 
 1563, by Philip 11. in confequence of a vow he made, if he 
 fhould vanquifli the French army near St. Quintin's, which he 
 did in 1557, °" ^^' Laurence's day. The architeds were John 
 Bat. Monegro of Toledo, and John de Herrera, who finifhed 
 it in 15S6. It is dedicated to St. Laurence : and as this faint 
 is faid to have been broiled alive on a "gridiron, in the third 
 century, the founder chofe to have the building on the plan of 
 that culinary inflrument, the bars of which form feveral courts, 
 and the handle is the royal apartments. 
 
 Gridirons are met with in every part of this building ; there 
 are fculptured gridirons, painted gridirons, iron gridirons, 
 marble gridirons, wooden gridirons, and flucco gridirons : 
 there are gridirons over the doors, gridirons in the yards, grid- 
 irons in the windows, gridirons in the galleries. Never was 
 inftrument of martyrdom fo multiplied, fo honoured, fo cele- 
 brated : and thus much for gridirons. I never fee a broiled beef- 
 ftake without thinking of the Efcorial. St. Jerom is the fecond 
 patron of this place. The monks who inhabit this convent, to 
 the number of tvv^o hundred, are Jeronymitcs, 
 
 G 2 At
 
 loo TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 At the firft fight of the Efcorial, it conveys the idea of a 
 fquare quarry of ftone above ground; for it is indeed the largeft, 
 though not the moft elegant palace in Europe. The Doric archi- 
 tedture prevails in it. It is wholly built of a grey ftone, called 
 Beroqiienat refembling a kind of granite, though not fo hard. 
 It is fituated in a dry foil, environed \N'ith barren mountains ; 
 which fituation was chofen, becaufe the quarries which fupply 
 the ftone made ufe of for building it, were near at hand. 
 
 The Spanifh defcription fays, that the chief front is feven^. 
 hundred and forty feet broad, and feventy feet high to the cor- 
 nice, which goes round the whole fabric. I meafured it myfelf, 
 and found the breadth to be no more than fix hundred and fifty-- 
 feven feet : the fides, which I likewife meafured, are four hun- 
 dred and ninety- four feet in depth ; the Spanifti book fays five, 
 hundred and eighty. 
 
 There is a fquare tower at each end of the four corners, faid- 
 to be two hundred feet in height. 
 
 The chief front, which has thirty-five windows in breadth, is 
 turned towards the mountains, which are only a hundred paces 
 diftant ; and, confequently, it is dark there half an hour before ; 
 it is fo at the back front, which commands a fine profpedl, that, 
 reaches quite to Madrid. 
 
 It is faid, that there are four thoufand windows, and eight 
 thoufand doors in this building ; one thoufand one hundred and,
 
 I N. 
 
 loi 
 
 ten of thefe windows are on the outfide of the four fronts. 
 This number is falfely augmented by ahuoft all the defcribers 
 of it, to eleven thoufand windows, and fourteen thoufand. 
 doors. 
 
 There are three doors in the chief front. Over the principal 
 entrance are the arms of Spain, carved in ftone ; and a little 
 higher, in a nich, a ftatue of St. Laurence in a deacon's habit, 
 a gilt gridiron in his right hand, and a book in his left : this 
 ftatue, which is fifteen feet in height, was executed by Joha, 
 Bat. Monegro, and is of the BeroqiieTia ftone, except the head, 
 feet, and hands, which are of marble. 
 
 Diredly over the door are two enormous gridirons In ftone- 
 baflb relievo. 
 
 Through this door I entered into a large court, at the bottom 
 of which is the church, which has five doors; over them are 
 placed fix ftatues, each of feventeen feet in height : they were 
 made by Monegro, and are of ftone, but with heads, hands, and 
 feet of marble : they reprefent fix kings of Judah, their crowns, 
 and other injignia, are of bronze gilt. 
 
 The church is built Vi/ith a cupola, after the model of St, 
 Peter's at Rome; and on each fide , is a tower with chimes.- 
 The choir is fo ill placed, that it renders the church very ob— 
 feure: here are two hundred and fixteen choral books in folio,, 
 
 written^
 
 302 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 ■written on parchment, with exceeding fine miniatures. Behind 
 the choir is an aUar, oyer which is a reprefentation, as large as 
 the Jife, of Chrift on the .Crofs : the body is of white, and tlie 
 crofs of bhick marble. This is the celebrated crucifix, fculp- 
 tured by the no lefs celebrated Benvenuto Cellini : this artift: 
 publiihed a book on fculpture, dedicated to Cardinal de Medicis, 
 printed in Florence in 1568. In p. 56, he fays, " Though I 
 " have made many ilatues of marble, yet I fhall only mention 
 " one, it being one of the moft difficult parts of the art to repre- 
 *' fent dead bodies ; this is the image of Chrift crucified, in carv- 
 *' ing of which I took great pains, working with all the atten- 
 " tion and care which fuch a fubjeift requires, and I knew that 
 " I was the firfl who had ever carved a crucifix in marble. I 
 " finlflaed it in a manner that gave great fatisfa(3:ion to thofe 
 *' who faw it : it is now in the pofleffion of the duke of Florence, 
 " my mafter and benefador. I placed the body of Chrift on a 
 " crofs of black Carrara marble, which is a ftone fo extremely 
 *' hard, that it is very difficult to cut it." 
 
 Cellini mentions this crucifix likewife in his Life, which was 
 lately tranflated into Englifli by Dr. Nugent; in p. 389, of the 
 fecond volume, he fays, " Having completely finiflied my 
 " marble crucifix, I thought that if I raifed it a few cubits above 
 " the ground, it would appear to much greater advantage than 
 " if it were placed immediately upon it; fo I began to iliew it 
 *' to whoever had a mind to fee fuch an exhibition. The duke 
 " and duchefs being informed of this, one day, upon their retufn 
 
 *' from
 
 SPAIN. 103 
 
 **from Plfa, came unexpededly with a grand retinue to my 
 ** workfliop, in order to fee this image of Chrift upon the Crofs : 
 " it pleafed them fo highly, that their excellencies, as well as 
 " all the nobility and gentry prefent, beftowed the higheft enco- 
 " miums on me. When I found that It gave them fuch fatif- 
 " fadion, by their extolling it to the Ikies, I with pleafure 
 '^ made them a prefent of it, thinking none more worthy of that 
 " fine piece of work than their excellencies." 
 
 Vafari, in his Lives of Painters and Sculptors, vol. II. p. 283, 
 fays, " Cellini likewife made a Chrift upon the Crofs, as big as 
 " the life, a moft exquifite and extraordinary performance : the 
 " duke keeps it as a piece upon which he fets a very great value,, 
 " in the palace of Pitti, in order to place it in the little chapel, 
 " which he is eredting there, and which could contain nothing 
 " more grand, nor more worthy of fo illuftrious a prince: in a. 
 " word, this work cannot be fufficiently commended." 
 
 The grand duke Cofimo fent it as a prefent to Philip II. It 
 v/as landed at Barcelona, and was carried from thence to where 
 it nov.' is, on men's fhoulders. At the foot of the crofs is in- 
 fcribed, " Benvsnutus Zelinus, civis Florentlmis^ fac'iebat 1562." 
 It is certainly the fineft crucifix extant, and I have been fo par- 
 ticular in defcriblng it, becaufe it is the work of fo extraordi- 
 nary a man, " whofe life is certainly a phsenomenon in bio- 
 " graphy ; as to the man himfelf, there is not perhaps a more; 
 " fingular chara£ler among the race of Adam ■^" 
 
 * MiTcell. by Dr. Johnfon, and others, vol. III., p. 297,.
 
 I-D4 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 If Cellini were yet living, what imprecations would he not 
 Titter, if he knew that the priefts have, by way of ornament, 
 tied a purple velvet gold laced petticoat round the waift of the 
 flatue, and which defcends below the knees ! 
 
 Near to this altar, in a nich, is a marble ftatue of St. Lau- 
 rence, in a deacon's habit, as large as the life, with a gilt 
 bronze gridiron in one hand, and a palm-branch in the other : 
 it was found in the ruins of Rome, and fent to Philip IL by 
 his ambaflador then refiding there. This flatue is in the ancient 
 tafte, and is of good workmanfhip. 
 
 The church contains forty-eight altars, in forty chapels. The 
 great altar is decorated with fifteen bronze ftatues, to which is 
 an afcent by feventeen red jafper fteps : on one fide is the monu- 
 ment of Charles V. whofe effigies, together with thofe of his 
 €mprefs, daughter, and two fifters, are reprefented kneeling, 
 as large as the life, in gilt bronze : on the other fide is the mo- 
 nument of Philip n. who, together with two of his queens, are 
 -reprefented in like manner. All by Pompey Leoni, 
 
 Here are eight organs, one of which is of filver, which are 
 all performed on together, on folemn feftivals. 
 
 There are eleven thoufand reliques preferved here, which I 
 fhall not attempt to defcribe, as I did not fee one of them ; but 
 in the Spanifh account of the Efcorial, in folio, printed in 1764, 
 
 the
 
 SPAIN. 105 
 
 the defcrlption of them is fo curious, that I cannot refrain from 
 making the following literal extradt, which will ferve to fhow 
 of what immenfe value they are. 
 
 " We will firft begin with the reliques of our Saviour, who, 
 *' as he gave himfelf to us, left us fome of his precious jewels, 
 *' which are incomparable and divine. 
 
 " A facred hair of his moft holy head or bread, is preferved 
 " here with the utmoft veneration in a precious vafe; and oppor- 
 " tunity can never offer us a better hair to obtain glory by. Se- 
 *' veral pieces of his moft holy crofs, all admirably garniihed 
 *' with gold, filver, and jewels, efpecially that which is adored 
 '* on Good-Friday. 
 
 " Thirteen thorns out of his crown, which pierce the foul 
 *' with their points, when we confider them as in the delicate 
 *' temples of that moft loving king of glory. 
 
 " Some pieces of the column to which he was bound, and 
 *' of the manger in which he was born to die for us ; which 
 " invite hearts to break in pieces through compaflion and 
 ** gratitude. 
 
 " All thefe are placed in very rich vafes; but it is not much 
 *' that kings fhould fignalize themfelves in beftowing riches on 
 " him, who left fuch precious reliques to them ; even the whole 
 " prodigious edifice of the Efcorial is too fmali for the eftimation 
 ■*' and reverence due to them. 
 
 P « In
 
 io6 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 '* In the fecond place, are the reliques of his moft holy mo*- 
 *' ther, which gladden the heart of thofe who ferioufly confider 
 *' their incomparable value. Three or four pieces of the habrt 
 " which adorned that moft pure and virginal body, in which 
 ** was formed that of Jefus Chrift our Lord, her fon, are placed 
 ** in one cafe. Alfo a piece of the handkerchief with which fhe 
 *' wiped her eyes, at the foot of the Crofs, when thofe tears, 
 *' as precious as the gems of Aurora, joining with the rubies of 
 ** the weftern fun, incorporated themfelves with the treafure of 
 " our redemption. 
 
 *' Befides thefe, we poflefs a hair, which may be fufpe£led to 
 " be that which flowing down her neck, enamoured her fpoufe. 
 '* The vafe which contains thefe reliques is of cryftal, with a 
 " golden cover and ornaments : two kneeling angels fupport it, 
 *• denoting the veneration due to thefe remains of their queen 
 *' and our lady, who is elevated above all the angelical choirs . 
 " in heaven. . 
 
 " Eleven entire bodies of faints ; among which is that of a. 
 " very little faint, who was one of the innocent children mur- . 
 *' dered by order of Herod. 
 
 *' One hundred and three heads, above twelve hundred arms 
 *' and legs; the ftioulder-blade of St. Laurence, in a filver cafe, 
 '* which is of fuch ancient workmanfhip, as fufficiently demon- 
 *' ftrates the bone to be his : we may fafely leave to thefe arms 
 ** the difpatch of the moft arduous negociations of our falvation, 
 
 " which
 
 SPAIN. 107 
 
 *' which ought always to be prefent with us ; many of thefe 
 *' arms and legs belonged to the two fquadrons of faints who 
 " combatted under the banners of St. Maurice and St. Urfula. 
 
 *' We poffefs alfo a thigh of the glorious martyr St. Lau- 
 •'rence; it is entire, but the hair is toafted (fmged), the holes 
 '• which were made in it by the prongs which turned him on 
 *' the gridiron, are very vifible. One of this faint's feet ; the 
 " toes are entire, though contradled : between two of them is a 
 ** fmall cinder, which iii the eye of piety fhines like a carbuncle. 
 
 *' A filver ftatue of St. Laurence, which weighs eighteen 
 *' arrobas (of twenty-five pounds each) ornamented with gold, 
 *' to the weight of eighteen pounds : he holds in his band one 
 *' of the very bars of the gridiron on which he was broiled. 
 
 ** The fmaller relics are innumerable. 
 
 " In order to protedl the edifice from lightning, there are fe- 
 *' veral reliques, efpecially fome of St. Laurence, its patron, in 
 " metal cafes, inferted in the balls and crofles which are on the 
 *' tops of the towers ; fo that if the ancients, for the fame 
 " effe&y placed laurels on the fummits of their towers and other 
 " edifices, which beautified and protedled them, becaufe they 
 " thought that lightning would never flrike thofe plants; how 
 .,, much better is this defended by fuch fuperior laurels?" 
 
 P 2 Ifliall
 
 loS TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 I (hall leave the reader to make his own refledlons on the 
 foregoing, and proceed with the dcfcription of the building j 
 but injuftice, I inform him, that a Spaniih account in odava 
 of the Efcorial, printed in 1773, fays, " As to the reliques 
 " which are kept here, it is better and more concife to venerate 
 " them, than to form a catalogue of them i" which is all that is 
 therein faid about them. 
 
 The tabernacle, on the great altar, is of porphyry, gold, and 
 jewels, fixteen feet liigh ; it may be feen, but not touched by 
 laymen. Odii profamim vulgus & arcet. 
 
 Immediately under this altar is the Pantheon, defigned as a 
 repofitory for the remains of the kings and queens of Spain : 
 the defcent to it is by fifty-eight marble fteps, chiefly of jafper. 
 This maufoleum is circular, and was built in 1654, according 
 to the defign of John Bat. Crefcenzio. It is thirty-fix feet in 
 diameter, and thirty-eight in height, and is entirely conftruded 
 of the moft valuable marbles, highly polilhed, intermixed with 
 ornaments of gilt bronze : round the wall are eight double 
 columns of the Corinthian order, with their bafes and capitals 
 of bronze gilt : between thefe are placed twenty-four urns, or 
 fepulchral chefts of marble, of feven feet in length, in as many- 
 niches, four over each other: two more urns are placed over 
 the door which fronts the great altar. Thefe chefts are placed 
 on four lions paws of gilt bronze, and are farther adorned with 
 the fame metal : on each of them is a fhield, containing the 
 
 name,-
 
 SPAIN. 109 
 
 nameof the king or queen whofe body is contained within. 
 There are at prefent thirteen depofited here, which are thofe 
 of Charles V. Philip 11. III. and JV. Charles 11. and Lewis I. 
 The emprefs Elizabeth; [the queens Anne, Margaret of Auflria, 
 Elizabeth of Bourbon, Marianne of Auflria, Louifa of Savoy, 
 and Mary Amelia of Saxony. The bodies of the royal children,, 
 and of thofe queens who left no iffue, are buried in a chapel 
 near the Pantheon. There are fifty-one niches, forty of which, 
 are occupied. 
 
 Over the altar is a crucifix ; the crofs is of black marble, and 
 the body of gilt bronze, as large as the life, made in Rome by 
 Julian Fineli of Carrara, a difciple of Algardi ; but fome attri~ 
 bute it to Pedro Taca : the back ground is of porphyry. The- 
 cupola of the Pantheon is of marble, with foliages of gilt bronze : 
 from the middle is fufpended a curious luftre of bronze gilt, of 
 feven feet and a half in height, made in Genoa ; there are eight 
 other branches for lamps, held by bronze angels, as the day- 
 light only appears through a fingle window. 
 
 The arms of Spain are reprefented over the door, in a kind, 
 ©f raofaic of diff^erent coloured marbles, gold, filver, and. 
 lapis lazuli. 
 
 In the Sacrifty is kept a pccfloral crofs, worn about the 
 neck of the prior on folemn days : it confifts of five dia- 
 monds, eight emeralds, four rubies, and five pearls, of which; 
 
 the:
 
 no TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 the largcft is of the fize of a pigeon's egg, and the other four 
 are as big as filberds. 
 
 Here I was likewife fhewn a book called el Capitularo., being 
 nineteen fheets of parchment, on which are reprefented various 
 feftivals of the year in miniature, by the delicate pencil of father 
 Andrew Leone, and the other painters of the choral books. 
 
 In the fmall chapel de la Santa Forma, is a very fine ciijlodia 
 d'oftia, of filver Jilagrana^ which was made in China, and pre- 
 fented to Charles IL by the emperor Leopold. 
 
 In the palace are two meridian lines by John Wendlingen, a 
 German Jefuit. 
 
 The library, which confifls of two rooms, contains twenty- 
 one thoufand volumes : about four thoufand three hundred of 
 thefe are in manufcript ; of which, five hundred and feventy- 
 feven are Greek, fixty-feven Hebrew, one thoufand eight 
 hundred Arabic, and one thoufand eight hundred and twenty 
 Latin and vulgar. The fire in 1661 burnt many MSS. among 
 which were one thoufand two hundred in Arabic *". 
 
 The largefl: room Is one hundred and ninety-four feet long ; 
 iive marble tables are placed in it. On one of them ftands an 
 
 * See Clarke, p. 131, and J55, for a further account of thefe MSS. 
 
 equeflrian
 
 N. 
 
 Ill 
 
 equeftrian ftatue of Philip II. four feet in height, with a flave 
 at each of the four corners of the pedeltal ; the whole is of 
 filver. Some other filver flatues decorate the other tables. I faw 
 a load-ftone here that weighs feven pounds, and fufpends an 
 iron weight of twenty-fix pounds ; but if it were properly 
 mounted, it might be made to fufpend one of feven hundred and. 
 fifty pounds. This magnet is faid to have been extraded from, 
 one of the neighbouring mountains.. 
 
 In a fmali room called el Camerino, is a portable golden altar,. 
 which was made ufe of by Charles V. the crofs of its crucifix is 
 ornamented with a topaz as big as a hen's t^^, and with a dia- 
 mond and ruby, each of the fize of a common bean ; the dia- 
 mond may poffibly be fome kind of fapphire. 
 
 Behind two fides of the Efcorial is a fmall garden, with a great 
 number of fountains. The royal apartments contain nothing 
 worthy of notice ; the kitchen and fruit-garden, with the park, , 
 are about a league in circumference. 
 
 I fhall now give fome account of the pi<flures which are pre- 
 ferved here, of which there are upwards of one thoufand fix 
 hundred in oil colours, exclufive of the paintings in frefco, . 
 in which manner ten ceilings are painted by Luca Giordano. 
 
 The befl pidlure here is that which is preferved in the old 
 church; it was painted by Raphael, and as the following ac- 
 
 coun''
 
 112 TPvAVELS THROUGH 
 
 count of it has never appeared in the Enghfli language, and 
 contauis many very judicious remarks, not only on the pi»!ture, 
 but alfoon painting, 1 (hall here infert a tranllation of it from 
 the Spanifli paper publifhed in Madrid in 1773, ^7 ^^^^ Pedro 
 Antonio de la Puente. Attention to thefe obfervations will 
 enable the intelligent fpe£tator to difcover the merits of the other 
 pidures he may fee here, for which reafon I have placed the en- 
 fuing refledions at the head of the catalogue of pidures. 
 
 In the year 1754, John Henry, Efq. an Irifh gentleman, tra- 
 velled through Spain, and having feen the famous pidlure called 
 the Madonna, or our Lady of the Fifli, in the Efcorial, wrote 
 the following refledlions on it, as he had heard that James Ami- 
 coni, one of the king's painters, had faid that it was not an 
 original by Raphael Urbino. He wrote them in Englifli, and 
 gave a copy of them to a relation of his, father James Henry, 
 of the order of St. Francis, in Seville, who tranilated them 
 into Spanifli. 
 
 Volet hccc fub luce videri, 
 Judicis argutum, quce non formidat acumen. 
 
 HoR. Art. Poet. v. 363. 
 
 *' Whoever defires to form a right judgment of a painting, muft 
 *' firfl determine the fubjedt of it exadly, becaufe a hlftorical 
 *' pifture is only a portrait, and for a man to defpife or to praife a 
 ** portrait when he has nojuft idea of the original, is rafh and 
 «* abfurd, 
 
 «' But
 
 SPAIN. 113 
 
 " But as portraits vary innumerably, according to the point of 
 *' view in which they are examined, Co the fame objedl will ap- 
 " pear very different, according to the inftant of time in which it 
 "is beheld. For example, the Refurredion of Lazarus, at the 
 *' inftant that Chrift commands him to ccme forth from the 
 " fepulchre, would be in many circumftances the reverfe of that 
 *' lame refurredlion, confidered in the point of time immediately 
 " following it. In the firft cafe, few would appear difpofed to 
 *' believe, many to doubt the event, and many more to laugh 
 " at and ridicule the undertaking of the Saviour ; but in the 
 " fecond, the greater number would appear believing, many con- 
 " vinced, and few or none incredulous. Hope, fear, fufpicion, 
 " doubt, and incredulity, would be the predominating pafnons 
 *' in the firft reprefentation ; and thofe of aftonifliment, confi- 
 " dence, joy, and tumultuous confufion, in the fecond. 
 
 " When the fubje£l of the pidure is ambiguous or dcfedive, 
 " in that cafe the imagination is at liberty to determine or to 
 " fuppofc it. But in actions like the above, the pidure muft 
 " be adjufted to the fubje£l, and not the fubjed to the pidure. 
 
 " The fubje£l once determined, we muft examine whether 
 " the painter has treated it judicioufly or not; that is, whether 
 " he has chofen the propereft moment, and whether he has dif- 
 " pofed his figures in the moft advantageous order and manner : 
 " if not, vv^e may fay that the artift has taken a bad likenefs ; but 
 ** if he has feleded the moft happy moment, and difpofed the 
 
 Q^ " figures
 
 114 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 ■'5 
 
 figures in the be ft manner poffible, that advantage alone,. 
 " which is but little prized by many pretended connoifleurs, and 
 ** never by ignorant pcrfons, fcreens him from all cenfure from 
 *' thofe who underftand the rules of the art. Of all the great 
 " painters I at prefent recoiled, Tintoret is the moft defedtive in 
 " this particular : he appears to have ftudied to feledt the moft 
 " improper time he could have chofen : his heads are always 
 " low and mean ; his attitudes likevvife low, and often ridicu- 
 " lous. As the greater number of his works are evident proofs- 
 " of this, it will fuffice to name one, wi.ich is the WaJJiing of 
 " the Feet., placed in the facrifty of the Efcorial ; where, among- 
 ** many other enormities, he reprefents one of the dlfciples, 
 " ftretched on the ground, when another difciple is exerting his . 
 " ftrcngth by pulling off one of his ftockings. 
 
 " In the compofition of a pidure, three things are chiefly to^ 
 " be attended to : firft, that the principal action be the chief ob— 
 " jedt ; that is, the figures muft be fo placed that one may at the,- 
 " firft glance diftinguilh which are the perfons interefted in the 
 *' occafion, and which not, otherwife the compofition would be : 
 " confufed, and the embarraffed eye would remain in an uneafy 
 " fufpence, becaufe each figure, or group, being equally attraifl-- 
 " ing, it finds no principal objed to reft and fix upon. Very 
 " few artifts have compofed corre£lly. Even Raphael has his 
 " defedts ; for in his famous pidture of the Transfiguration, lie 
 " has painted two fubjeds which fo equally diftradt the fight, 
 " that one knows not where to fix, whether on the mi- 
 
 " racle
 
 SPAIN. u^ 
 
 " racle above, or on the difciples and the lunatic at the foot of 
 *' the mountain. 
 
 " Secondly, in a good pidure there muft be an exa£t propriety 
 *' in the contraji^ by which is meant, that the figures or groups 
 " muft not be much like each other, either in their attitudes, 
 " faces, or habits. The Heaven which is painted in the chief 
 *' choir of the Efcorial, by Luca Cambiafo, proves what I fay, 
 ** for by want of a due contraft, it looks more like a regiment 
 " of militia in battle array, than a choir of angels and happy 
 " fpirits praifing their Creator. 
 
 " Laftly, each of the figures and groups muft balance one 
 *' another exacftly ; if they do not, one fide of the pidure will 
 *' appear to preponderate over the other, which will neceffarily 
 *' hurt the eye. This rule is likewife extended toportraits, be- 
 " caufe an exad equilibrium is as necefl^ary in a fingle figure as 
 *' in a group. The pidure by Velafquez, of the count-duke of 
 " Olivares on horfeback, may be called a model of perfed equi- 
 *' poife, and I prefer it to any thing of the kind I have ever 
 *• feen : it is at prefent in the king's palace at Madrid. 
 
 " Many ftrange ~anachronifms are found in pidures, for In- 
 *^ ftance, the Marriage of St. Catherine with the Child Jefiis, 
 " St. Anthony of Padua, St. Ignatius Loyola, and many others 
 '•' with the fame child in their arms. The firft time I faw the 
 ■*' pidure of the Transfiguration, by Raphael, I was furprifed to 
 
 0^2 " fee
 
 ^i6 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 " fee two Francifcan monks on the top of Mount Tabor, not 
 " far from Chrift, Mofes, and Elias, and I could not have 
 " thought that a painter who poQefTed fo much true tafte and 
 " erudition as Raphael did, could commit fuch glaring aWurdi- 
 ** ties; but my aftonifhmentceafed, when I was informed that he 
 " painted that pidure by order of a community of Capu-' 
 " chin friars. 
 
 *' Du Piles reduces the art of painting to four parts, compofi-- 
 ^' tlon, defign, colouring, and exprefTion. That divifion is de- 
 " fedlive, becaufe it omits gracefulnefs, which is much more- 
 " effential to good painting than any of the others*. Grace- 
 ** fulnefs is the art of infpiring an air of dignity and eafe in the. 
 " figures reprefented, fo that it may appear to be naturally be-- 
 ** longing to them, and not the efFe£t of the painter's ability;- 
 ** which noble facility places Raphael in fuch a fuperior light to- 
 " mofl: other painters. Gracefulnefs in Raphael is an inherent ex-- 
 " cellency, whereas, in others, it appears to be a m,ere cafualty. 
 " Some have drawn as well as he, many are fuperior to him in- 
 <* colouring, others compofed with equal judgment ; but thei^e- 
 " never was a painter fo graceful : that is the reafon why the- 
 " paintings of Raphael pleafe the more, the more they are 
 *' examined, and that intelligent perfons are as it were forced to 
 " examine them every time with renewed care and attention, and' 
 *' that they quit them with greater reludance. 
 
 * Senza le grazie ogni fatica c vana, as Lord Chcftcrfield fjys. 
 
 " We
 
 S P A I N. 117^ 
 
 •* We muft here take notice that gracefulnefs muft not be- 
 ** confounded with what is called genteelnefs ; the former con- 
 *' fifts of dignity and eafe, and the latter of eafe and delicacy. 
 " The one is noble, the other beautiful : in this laft I efteem 
 " Guido to have gone beyond any other painter. Correggio 
 " united both in a degree peculiar to himfelf ; his attitudes are- 
 *'■ ufually graceful ; however his heads, though never mean or 
 " plebeian, have very feldom that dignity neceflary to confti— 
 **• tute what is called noblenefs. Thus, in his School of Love,- 
 " which is in the colleftion of the duke of Alva, the attitude of 
 "• his Venus is perfedlly graceful ; but her head, though beau— 
 " tiful beyond exprefhon, is no more than a copy from nature. 
 
 " Some perfons fet about examining pitlures only to find out 
 ** their defeats, as if all their knowledge of the art confifled in 
 " making fuch difcoveries : they are often heard to fay, what a 
 " bad leg that is! and that foot, how crooked! that arm ap- 
 **■ pears to be one of thofe of Artaxerxes Longimanus ! and 
 " other equally juft and fenfible remarks, wherewith they fo 
 "lightly cenfure the piiSure and the painter. Such critics ought 
 "•to remember three things: firft, that it is much eafier to dif— 
 *' cover the defeats of a pidlure than its beauties, becaufe all. 
 " pidtures have defetfts, and but very few have perfedlions : fe- 
 '^ condly, that thofe inadvertencies, though they are granted. to 
 *<~be faults, are not always to be attributed to the painter's want 
 •'of ability : and, finally, that the greateft mafters have fallen. 
 **-iiUo foroe.errors. Neverthelefs, when we fee a leg, an arm,., 
 
 " or.-
 
 :n8 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 " or any other member ill drawn, the painter is doubly reprehen- 
 '" fible ; for not knowing the laws of dcfign, and for not cn- 
 •" deavouring to hide his want of Ikill. Baflano, for example, 
 
 " feldom ventured to draw naked arms or legs, through a con- 
 ■*' fcioufnefs of his incapacity. 
 
 " If, on the contrary, we fee the fame members corre£lly 
 ■^' drawn in other pieces by the fame painter, we are to believe 
 " that thofe defeats, which we now cenfure, did not arife from 
 " want of fkill or power, but from fome accident or inadver- 
 *' tency, hafte, &c. If we are to cenfure great painters for fuch 
 *' trifling faults, which are to be found in all their works, we 
 " mufl; fuppofe that Raphael did not know in what pofition a 
 '" man's leg fhould be placed to fuftain his body, becaufe in his 
 " fchool of Athens, painted in frefco in the Vatican, one of the 
 *' legs of Alcibiades is reverfed : nor that Leonard da Vinci 
 *' knew how many fingers were on a hand, becaufe in his Lq^ 
 ■*' Supper, which is his mafter-piece, and is prefervcd at Milan, he 
 *' has painted the hand of one of the apoftles with fix fingers. 
 " With equal reafon might we fay that Virgil knew not the rules 
 ~" of poetry, becaufe he has admitted a falfe quantity in fome of 
 " his verfes. 
 
 " Thofe who critlcife paintings, would do well to learn firft 
 *' of what fchool the painter was : for as every nation has its 
 " own particular idiom, fo each fchool has its particular manner 
 ** which diflinguilhes it from all others ; and farther, that it i« 
 
 *' «of
 
 S P A I N. 119 
 
 " notpoffible that it fhould attain, in any degree of perfedtion, 
 " to a beauty peculiar to another different fchool ; fo that it is 
 " as unjuft to cenfure a difciple of the German fchool for not 
 *' compofing as corredly as a Roman, as to find fault with a 
 *' German becaufe he cannot fpeak Italian : and to fay as many 
 " do, what a pity it is that Raphael did not give to his works 
 *' fuch beautiful and lading colours as Titian did to his, is the 
 " fame thing, as if we faid, what a pity it is that Raphael is not: 
 " a Roman and a Lombard ;. that is, of the Roman fchool and o£ 
 " that of Lombardy at the fame time. 
 
 " As Fellbien, Frefnoy, and du Piles, have treated at large on 
 *' the rules and precepts of painting, I refer the reader to their. 
 " works with regard to thofe rules, and (hall examine partly ac- 
 " cording to the rules eflablifhed by thofe mafters, and partly 
 " according to the obfervations hitherto made, a pidure which 
 " is in the Efcorial, whofe merit I cannot exprefs better than by 
 " faying, that it is a mafter-piece of Raphael Urbino : it is paint- - 
 " ed on five tables of wood, and is about eight feet high, , 
 "celebrated under the name of la Madonna del Pefce, our Lady 
 "oftheFifli. 
 
 " Vafari informs us, that Raphael painted this pidure by 
 " defire of a community of nuns in Naples. Marc Antonio has 
 " engraven it. The order given to Raphael was probably that 
 *' he fhould paint a pidure in which the following perfonages 
 *• were to coiicur : Qirift, the. Virgin Mary, St. Jerom, St. . 
 
 " Raphael!
 
 •120 ■ TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 * Raphael the archangel, and his young pupil Tobit; happily 
 '*• leaving him to contrive, as he was beft able, how to join in 
 " one plcliire perfonages who were (o diftant from each other 
 *' in point of time. I fay happily, becaufe certainly none but 
 •' Raphael could have formed fo extraordinary and fo beautiful 
 *' a pidurc from a fubje£l fo fteril and fo unconne(5led. 
 
 " To execute this intent, Raphael formed in his mind the 
 " fictitious idea, which ferved him for an example, in the fol- 
 *' lowing order and manner. 
 
 *' The Virgin is fuppofed to be fitting In a chair, with the 
 •*' child Jefus in her lap, attentively liflening to St. Jerom, who 
 •" is reading the prophecies of the Old Teftament relative to the 
 " birth, preaching, and miracles of the Mefliah. St Jerom is 
 •*• interrupted in his ledure by the entry of the Archangel, who 
 *' introduces the young Tobit, whom he prefents to the Virgin, 
 *' and in an attitude which only Raphael could have drawn, im- 
 " plores her favour and interceffion with God, that the elder To- 
 *' bit might be reftored to his fight. 
 
 " During the pathetic harangue of the archangel, the painter 
 *• pitched on his inftant of time, and, in confequence, has drawn 
 *' him adlually fpeaking to the Virgin. She, as the mother of 
 *' Piety and Clemency, is liftening to the archangel with great 
 " attention, directing her compaffionate looks to the young To- 
 *' bit, who, full of reverential awe,^ raifes his eyes to the child, 
 
 " or
 
 A I N. 
 
 121 
 
 " or rather towards it, bccaufe Tobit appears to be too much 
 '* embarrafled and confufed to fix them on any determinate 
 •' objed. 
 
 " As the child and St. Jerom have a fhare in the principal 
 " adion, the painter, in order to preferve the unity of his fub- 
 " jed, introduces them by way of epifodes, but in fuch a judi- 
 *' cious and natural manner, that they neither diftrad the fight, 
 " nor fatigue the eye of thofe who examine the whole of the 
 •' work. The child, anxious to get at the fifh, which hangs to 
 ** a firing in the right hand of Tobit, bends gently towards it, 
 " looking, in the mean tifne, at the archangel, as if defiring his 
 " afliftance to obtain it; meanwhile, St. Jerom, who fince the 
 " entrance of the angel had been reading to himfelf, and had 
 " finifhed the leaf, is ready to turn over another, and appears 
 " only to wait till the child lifts its little arm from the book, 
 " whereon it had carelefsly reiled it. 
 
 " Thus we fee that the whole piece is compofed of one prin- 
 " cipal, and two minor or fubaltern adions ; or, as the painters 
 " exprefs themfelves, of one adion and two accidents. The ac- 
 " tion is the interceffion of Raphael with the Virgin ; the 
 " accidents are, the anxiety of the child for the fifli, and the 
 " filent attention with which St. Jerom waits till it fliould take 
 " its arm from the book, in order to turn over the leaf. The 
 *' accidents, befides being diflind from each other, arc fo much 
 •*' inferior to the principal adion, that they do not in any man- 
 
 R " ner
 
 122 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 " ner mix with it, but on the contrary ferve to refrefh the fight 
 " as often as it is wearied with the examination of the principal 
 " adion. This and the firft accident are extremely natural and 
 *' obvious ; however, the manner of uniting St. Jerora with the 
 *• other figures, by making the child's arm reft on his book, 
 " was a thought certainly worthy of Raphael ; becaufe, if he had 
 ^' painted the faint farther off, and detached him entirely from 
 " the other figures, he would have been a fuperfluous and unne- 
 " ceiTary perfonage; and if he had reprefented him, as many 
 *' painters would h.we done, near to the angel who is fupplicat- 
 *' ing the Virgin in Tobit's favour, he would have been an in- - 
 " truding and troublefome perfonage. 
 
 ♦' I do not remember ever to have feen a piece in which all 
 *' the laws of a perfed contraft are better obferved : there is not 
 " one thing in it which refembles another; the child appears to • 
 " be a year old, Tobit ten or twelve, the angel fifteen, the Vir- 
 *' gin eighteen or twenty, and St. Jerom upwards of fixty. 
 
 " The child appears as if defirous to ftand up, Tobit kneels 
 •** on one knee, the angel is ftanding, the Virgin fitting, and . 
 " St. Jerom kneels on both knees. The child's face is three 
 *' quarters, that of Tobit an exa£l profile, that of the angel fore- 
 '* fhortened, that of the Virgin nearly full, and that of St. Jerom 
 '* fomewhat more than a profile. 
 
 " The child's hair is of a clear chefnut colour, Tobit's inclin- 
 *' ing to red, the angel's brown, the Virgin's rather darker, and
 
 H 
 
 PAIN, ,23 
 
 ^' St. Jerom's grey, and the crown of his head bald. In a word, 
 " the whole piece is diverfified in the moft judicious and agree- 
 " able manner imaginable. The equilibrium , as well of the whole, 
 " as of each part, is as perfedt as the contrail:, and is managed 
 " with exquifite induftry and art ; more efpecially the body of 
 " the angel, which is an exad balance. 
 
 " As the painter had no room for the Lion of St. Jerora, and 
 *' knew that without this, or an equivalent help, the faint would 
 *' not be a fufRcient counterpoife for the angel and Tobit, he 
 *' placed the child on the left arm of the Virgin's chair, with 
 *' only one of its feet bearing on her lap ; thus preferving an 
 *' exad counterpoife, and at the fame time adding beauty to the 
 *'pidure: the lion is difcovered to lie behind the faint, the 
 *' paws and part of the head appearing. Having thus defcribed 
 *' the plan which Raphael formed for this piece, I fhall now dif- 
 *' cover in what manner he executed it, and examine the difFe- 
 ** rent parts of which it is compofcd; that is, the defign, the 
 *' colouring, and the expreffion, 
 
 " As to the drawing or defign, it Is far fuperior to any I have 
 " feen. AH the heads are noble and majeflic, except that of 
 ** Tobit, which the painter lowered a little on purpofe, and for a 
 ** reafon which fhall be given hereafter. The head of the Virgin 
 <' is perfedly Grecian or Attic; that of the angel is a mixture 
 *' of the antique and of the natural, in a fupreme degree of per- 
 ** fedion ; the oval face of the Virgin, and the exterior linea- 
 
 R 2 " ments
 
 
 124 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 ** ments of the neck of Raphael, are exquifitely beautiful, 
 *• and extremely difficult to execute: the face of the child is 
 " correft and delicate. In fhort, the whole drawing is abfolute- 
 " ly complete ; becaufe, as to what regards Tobit's right leg, 
 ** (which is the only objedtion I ever heard made to this pidure) 
 " if the conftrained pofition in which he is reprefented be not 
 " a fufficient excufe, I fay, that it is fuch a flight miftake, that 
 " it will always pafs with intelligent perfons for the cfFed of 
 " hafte, or inadvertency in the painter, very pardonable accord- 
 *' Ing to the rule of Horace, which is as applicable to painting,^ 
 " as to poetry. 
 
 Verum ubi plura nitent In carmine, non ego paucis 
 Offcndar maculis, quas aut incuria fudit 
 Aut humana parum cavit natura. 
 
 HoR. Art. Poet.. 
 
 " The colouring is in the laft and beft manner of Raphael^ 
 " with this fingular excellency, tliat there is not a fmgle tint 
 '• but what is mixed. Of three different greens, two of which, 
 " are fcen in the drapery of the Virgin, and the third in the 
 ** curtain behind her, not one is either grafs-green or fea-green : 
 " the Virgin's head-drefs and tunic, as well as the angel's wings, 
 " are not quite white, but whitllh : the habit of St. Jerom is 
 *• fcarlet, but not pure fcarlet. In ihort, there is not one original 
 " or primitive colour in the whole piece; notwithftanding which, 
 " the painter has fhewn exquifite judgment and fine tafte, and 
 " what in any other hands would have been the means of fpoil- 
 
 *' ing
 
 SPAIN. 125 
 
 ** ihg the whole pidure, has in thofe of Raphael produced a foft 
 " fjveet colour, a tendernefs and a delicacy which almoft equals 
 ** Correggio. To be convinced of this, we need only examine 
 " the apotheofis of Charles V. by Titian, which hangs to the 
 " right of our picture '^. It is certainly a very fine piece; but 
 ** notvirithflanding its innumerable pure tints, it appears harfh and' 
 " faded, by being placed fo near to our Madonna.. 
 
 " In regard to expre/Tion, the adlion of this piece admits but 
 " very little : the angel, who is fpeaking, is properly the only 
 " perfon from whom much is required, and is effe<ftively the 
 " moft expreflive figure I ever faw, without even excepting the 
 " father of the lunatic at the foot of Mount Tabor, in the 
 " famous picture of the Transfiguration. It is true, that Tobit 
 " teftifies a reverential awe and dread, which, though admirably 
 " exprefled, is no more than a paflion of an inferior fpecies, or 
 *' a chara(!ler which the painter introduced merely to animate 
 " the figure, and the more to fet off the angel by means of 
 " this contrail. 
 
 " Let us now take a general idea or view of this work, and 
 " remark the beauties which arife from the harmony of its parts : 
 " but as pilots, in computing the Ihip's way, make allowances 
 " for tides, currents, and variations ; fo, in order to examine 
 ** this picture rigoroufly and without partiality, we muft reckon 
 
 * This piflure is at prefent placed in the Old Chiuch. 
 
 " among
 
 ■126 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 " among its merits, tlie difficulties which the painter overcame 
 "in its execution. 
 
 " The firfl difficuUy is in the fubjecl, which, befides being full 
 " of anachronifms, is not by any means pidurefque. A pic- 
 " turefque fubje<!l confifls of a true and real adlion, which being 
 ■*' an objedl of vifion, can be reprefented by colours. But the ac- 
 " tion of the Madonna is a fpeech or difcourfe, which belongs 
 '* to hearing, and can no more be exprefled by colours, than 
 " fight can be by founds ; fo that though the painter has feled:- 
 " cd the moft proper moment, the adion is neverthelefs no 
 *' more than what painters call inert, or Hill-life. All that 
 " Raphael could intend, or pretend to exprefs, was how the 
 •** company looked whilfl the angel was fpeaking to the Virgin. 
 
 " Now follows the cardinal's habit of St. Jerom, which is 
 " neither antique, graceful, nor pi<Surefque. Raphael did 
 '• what he could to diminifh and deaden that exceffive mafs of 
 *' fcarlet, in order to prevent its vanquifhing or drowning the 
 *' other colours, and to divert the eye from fixing upon it. It 
 *' cannot be denied but that he has obtained his end ; but the 
 " Gothic flaape of the habit ftill remains without any poffible re- 
 *' medy, forming an antinomy in the draperies of the figures, a 
 •*' fault into which it was impoffible for Raphael to fall, if he 
 " had not been compelled to it by inevitable neceffity. 
 
 *' The third difficulty is the fifh, which, according to the ac- 
 " count given of it in Scripture, was at leaft -eight feet long,
 
 S P A I N. 127 
 
 "which deftroys proportion, and much exceeeds the limits of 
 " the pidure, fo that Raphael with great judgment reduced it to 
 ** a pidurefque fize. 
 
 " Thefe I think are the chief difficulties which Raphael had- 
 " to overcome; but I could mention fome others, which I fhall 
 *• leave to be difcovered by the fpedators ; and fhall enumerate 
 " fome of the mafterly ftrokes which fo much diftinguilh 
 '* Raphael from other painters, and our Lady of the Fifti from, 
 *• other pictures. 
 
 " The attitude of the Virgin is perfedly graceful. The child, 
 " who is anxious to get at Tobit's fifh, inclines itfelf towards it, 
 ♦* as was before-mentioned : that motion is fo fudden that the 
 ** child is in danger of falling off the arm of the chair. To pre- 
 " vent which, the Virgin, without interrupting the angel, or 
 " taking her eyes off Tobit, inclines herfelf gently, placing her 
 " right hand againft the breafl of the child, the right fide of 
 " whofe head almoft touches the left cheek of its affediionate 
 " mother, which adds to her beautiful face a kind of celeflial . 
 " tendernefs, which may be felt, but is impoffible to be defcribed ; 
 «' caufing, at the fame time, a flight turn of her neck, which 
 "incomparably exceeds whatever I have feen of grace and de-r- 
 «' llcacy in painting. , 
 
 " The angel and Tobit are likewife perfed in their kind : the. 
 *< angel's head is noble, his figure full of grace, his attitude eafy 
 
 *' and .
 
 ■laS TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 *' and (llfengaged. Tobit's head is ruflic, his figure is cham- 
 *♦ pHre and heavy, his attitude is harfh. In the angel's face we 
 •*' difcover innocence,, fweetnefs, and compaflion : in that of 
 " Tobit, timidity and diffidence. The angel, confcious of his 
 " own dignity, appears to afk with the confidence that his peti- 
 " tion.is granted the moment he makes it ; whilfc Tobit, fen- 
 *' fiWe of his own unworthinefs, trembles even though an angel 
 •' pleads for him. 
 
 ** But there is hardly a circumftance in the whole piece which 
 " fhows Raphael's confummate judgment fo much, as his hav- 
 " ing omitted Tobit's dog ; which, by having been twice men- 
 " tioned in Scripture, is become one of his attributes, as the keys 
 "are thofe of St. Peter, and the fword and book of St. Paul.; 
 *' for which reafon, according to rigour, Raphael ought to have 
 " introduced it. But it is with painters as with poets 
 
 Great wits fometimes may glorioufly offend, 
 And rife to faults true critics dare not mend ; 
 From vulgar bounds with brave diforder part. 
 And fnatch a grace beyond the reach of art. 
 
 Pope's Essay on Criticism. 
 
 " In the prefent cafe we miift firfl confider that every domeftic 
 " animal is a thing belonging to plebeian or vulgar life, and is 
 *' confequently unworthy of a place in this pidure. Secondly, 
 *' according to the difpofition of the figures, the dog muft necef- 
 •*' iarily have been painted on the fore-ground, which is the moft 
 
 ♦* confpicuous
 
 S P A I N. 129 
 
 "< confpicuous and honourable place ; and laftly, the adtion of 
 ** the dog would have difturbed the fubjed: : fo that if Raphael 
 *' had not broken this precept, he muft infallibly have fpoiled 
 " the pidure. 
 
 " I fhould never have done, were I to point out all the beau- 
 " ties in this piece; the uniformity of the lights, the Virgin's 
 " foot, the oblique pofition of her garment, the equilibrium of 
 *' the angel's body maintained by the extenfion of his wings, 
 *' the pofition of his right foot, that of Tobit's left arm, the 
 " grand tafte of the draperies ; in fhort, every ilroke of the 
 " pencil is of fuch extreme beauty, that, notwithftanding all 
 " the difficulties which Raphael had to furmount in its execu- 
 " tion, it far furpaffes every pidture in the Efcorial, or in 
 *' any other coUedtion of paintings, and is the mofl: precious 
 ** jewel that his catholic majefty poflefles : in this I am under 
 *• no apprehenfion of being contradided. To conclude, all the 
 " figures reprefented in it appear to be thinking and dif- 
 *' courfing." 
 
 Omnia fub corredlone fapientium '^. 
 
 ■* " Many ftrange anachronifms are found in piiSlures ; for inftance, the 
 " marriage of St. Catherine with the child Jcfus, St. Anthony of Padua, 
 " St. Ignatius Loyola, and many others with the fame child in their arms." 
 
 After this paflTage (fee p. 115.}, the Spanifh original goes on with the fol- 
 lowing paragraph, which I have omitted in the text, where it was not worthy 
 of a place. 
 
 " However, thefe are not properly anachronifms, but rather pious repre- 
 *' fentations of fome favours which the Lord chofe to beftovv upon thofe his 
 
 S *' fervants,
 
 130 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 The other principal pldures are the follov.'ing : 
 
 In the Church. 
 
 Eight pidures, each reprefenting a pair of faints ; by Juarv 
 Hernandez Ximenez Navarrete, furnamed el Miido^ the DumI). 
 He was born in Bifcay, and died about the year 1577. He is 
 efteemed one of the beft Spanifh painters : his ftyle is much in the 
 manner of Titian, whofe difciple he was. 
 
 In the Choir. 
 
 The large heaven, painted in frefco, on the ceiling, is by 
 Luca Cambiafo. He has here reprefented himfelf in heaven,. 
 The figures are difpofed in as exadl fymmetry as the feats in the 
 choir, which has a difgufting effeft. 
 
 Chrift carrying the Crofs, by Sebaftian del Piombo, 
 
 Over the great Altar. 
 
 The Martyrdom of St. Laurence, by Pellegrino Tibaldi. 
 The ceiling of the whole church is painted in frefco, in ten 
 compartments, by Luca Giordano. This painter died in 1705. 
 
 " fervants, as it is certain that his majejly can communicate hinifelf to iiis 
 " chofen, when, and how he pleafes ; becaufe, as St. Paul iays, "Jefu Chrijius, 
 " heri& hodie ipfe iff in fcscula : and he who could after the refurredlion prefent 
 " himfelf before Magdalen in the habit of a gardener, and in the habit of a 
 •' pilgrim to the difciples of Emaus, can likewife in the {hape of a child 
 ♦' collocate himfelf in the arms of any one of his chofen, even in this mor- 
 '• tal life." ! 
 
 la,
 
 SPAIN. 131 
 
 In tlie Anti-Sacriftv. 
 The Flight into Egypt, by Titian. The child is eating cher- 
 ries, given to him by St. John : an angel pulls them for him. 
 This piflure is much celebrated. 
 
 The Adoration of the Wife Men. 
 
 The Crucifixion. 
 
 And Prefentation in the Temple. All by Paul Veronefe : the 
 figures are half length. 
 
 The Sepulchre of Chrift, by Tintoret. 
 
 A Madonna, Bambino *, and Saints, by Van Dyke. 
 
 Chrift and his difciples at fupper in the caftle of Emaus, by 
 Rubens. 
 
 St. John preaching in the defert. P. Veronefe. 
 
 St. Peter and St. Paul, half length, by Spagnoletto. 
 
 In the Sacrifty, which is one hundred and eight feet long, and 
 
 thirty-three feet wide. 
 
 Over the great altar is a very fine pidure by Claudlo Coelloj 
 reprefenting a proceffion in which Charles II. marches : there are 
 a very great number of figures in it, fomewhat lefs than the life. 
 The painter was born at Madrid, and died about the year 169:. 
 
 A Holy Family, by Raphael. This pidure is called the Pearl. It 
 was bought, for two thoufand pounds, out of our king Charles I's. 
 colledlion. 
 
 * Whenever il Bamhim is written in Italian, or el Kt^o in Spanifli, it 
 means the child Jcfus, 
 
 S 2 The
 
 132 
 
 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 The Virgin is reprefented fitting, fhe embraces the child! 
 with her right arm. It refts one foot on her knee, and the- 
 other on a fniall cradle. The Virgin's left hand is feen on the 
 fhoulder of St. Anne, who kneels by the fide of her daughter, 
 placing one hand in her lap, and reclining her head oa the 
 other. St. John (a child) offers fome fruits which he has 
 in his apron of camel's hair. The child appears to reach at 
 the fruit, and at the fame time turns its head to look at its 
 mother, laughing with the fimplicity and grace peculiar to its 
 age : the back ground reprefents a very beautiful landfcape, with 
 a diflant city and river. 
 
 T he Wafhing of Feet, by Tintoretto. The poftures of the- 
 difciples are ridiculous and extravagant, but it is notwithftanding' 
 a very fine picture. 
 
 A Madonna, Child, St. John, and an Angel ; by Andrew del 
 Sarto. Thefe two pictures were purchafed out of king Charles > 
 I's. collection. 
 
 Chrift tied to the column : one of the beft works of Luca, 
 Gambia fi. 
 
 An Ecce Homo. Paul Veronefe.. 
 
 A Madonna. 
 
 Chrift in the Garden. This picture is decayed : it is a nightr 
 piece, but the colours are much obfcured. 
 
 Chrift interrogated about Cxfar's tribute, 1 1, n. f. 
 
 The celebrated Magdalen, of which there are fuch an infinite 
 number of copies, \ 1. n. f. 
 
 St.
 
 SPAIN. 133 
 
 St. Margaret and the Dragon. 
 
 St. Sebaftian, his hands tied behind him, and his body with. 
 feveral arrows fhot into it. 
 
 The Virgin, Child, St. John, and St. Catherine. 
 
 Chrift crucified. Chrift fhown to the people. St. John in the 
 defart. All by Titian. 
 
 Magdalen drefling herfelf before a looking-glafs.. 
 
 A penitent Magdalen. Both by Tintoret.- 
 
 Here twice was drawn the am'rous Magdaline,, 
 Whilft beauty was her care, then her neglect. 
 And brighteft thro' her tears fhe feem'd to fhine. 
 
 GoNDiB. book ii. canto vi.. 
 
 St. Jerom. 
 
 The Adulterefs. Both by Van Dyke. This laft piece is 
 fcmewhat damaged. 
 
 St. Margaret raifing a boy from the dead. Caravaggio 
 A noli me t anger e, or Chrift appearing to Magdalen. Correggio* 
 Mary giving fuck to the Child. Guido Rheni. 
 The Sacrifice of Ifaac. P. Veronefe« 
 The Affumption of the Virgin. Annibal Carraccio.-. 
 Jpfeph with the Child in his arms. Guido Rheni.. 
 Mary vifiting St Elizabeth. 
 Mary, Child, and St. John. Both by Raphael. 
 Chrift. bearing the Crofs. Sebaftian del Piombo, 
 
 Vax
 
 134 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 In the Refe(ftory. 
 
 The famous Supper, by Titian, fo well known by the print 
 called the Table Cloth, engraven by IMaflbn. 
 
 The figures are nearly as large as the life. The painter was 
 feven years employed about this pidlure, and received two thou- 
 fand golden crowns for it from Philip II. There is a pidure 
 exadly like this preferved in the Royal Collection at Paris. 
 
 In the Old Church. 
 
 The Madonna of the Filli, already defcribed. 
 
 The Martyrdom of St. Laurence, by Titian. This appears 
 to be the fame defign as that which I faw in the Jefuits church 
 in Venice, which is painted by the fame hand. A very old print 
 of this pidure is extant, but I knov»r not by whom it was 
 engraven. 
 
 The Adoration of the Wife Men. 
 
 The Sepulchre of Chrift. 
 
 An Ecce Homo, and a dolorous Virgin. All by Titian. 
 
 A Madonna, by Andrew del Sarto. 
 
 Two fmall pictures of the two tombs that are in the church. 
 
 The ceiling of the grand flair-cafe is painted in frefco, by 
 Luca Giordano; and reprefents the battle of St. Quintin. 
 
 There are feveral paintings In frefco in the great Cloifter by 
 
 Pellegrini ; and in the great upper Cloifter are five pidures by 
 
 €l Mudo, 
 
 In
 
 SPAIN. 13^ 
 
 In the Capitulo Prioral, which is a room of eighty feet long, 
 and twenty feet wide. 
 
 St. John embracing a lamb. Spagnoletto. 
 
 Chrift with a globe in his hand. |- 1.. n f. Titian. 
 
 A Madonna and Child. Van Dyke. 
 
 Chrift at the wedding of Cana. P. Veronefe. 
 
 A Madonna, by Frederic Barocci. 
 
 Chrift in the garden, by Titian. This pidure is over the altar.. 
 
 The Martyrdom of St. Juftina, by Luca Giordano.. 
 
 Four flower pieces, by Daniel Seegers. 
 
 St. Paul falling from his horfe. 
 
 David triumphing over Goliah. Both by Palma the elder. 
 
 The Crowning with Thorns. Van Dyke. 
 
 The Centurion. P. Veronefe. Many figures, and noble archi- 
 teflure, w. 1, n. f. rather damaged. 
 
 A picture by Rubens, reprefenting the dead body of Chrift 
 lying acrofs the lap of Mary, St. John wiping away his tears, 
 and Mary Magdalen kiffrng the dead hand : the painting is very 
 fine and natural, which only makes it the more difgufting. 
 
 Another pidlure by Rubens, which is one of the fmeft in this 
 whole colledion. I efteem it be next in value after Raphael's 
 Madonna of the Fifli. It reprefents the Virgin fitting, the nak- 
 ed child ftands in her lap, refling its little hand on the 
 uncovered breaft of the mother ; Jofeph and St. Anne are ftand- 
 ing by them. 
 
 " Flerelife came out, and met the painter's thought.'' 
 
 St;.
 
 .136 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 St. Sebaftlan, with two men who are tying his feet to a tree, 
 and a boy with bows and arrows, by Van Dyke. 
 
 A very large head of St. Peter, and one of St. Paul, by Guido, 
 
 Mary fwathing the infant ; St. John, and two women, by 
 Paul Veronefe. Injured by time. 
 
 The Conception of the Virgin. Rubens, n. f. This pidure 
 reprefents Mary {landing on a globe, with a crcfcent and ferpent 
 at her feet, and feveral angels flying about her. 
 
 St. James, or Santiago, the patron of Spain, by Spagnoletto ; 
 as large as the life. 
 
 A Madonna fitting on a throne, the child fits on her lap, and 
 is croAvned by two angels, who hover over it, by Guido Rheni. 
 This is one of the moft capital pidtures that is preferved here. 
 Over the door are two baflb relievos in porphyry ; one is a 
 head of Chrift, the other is a Madonna and Child. 
 
 In the Capitulo Vicarial, which is a room of the fame fi7.e 
 as the laft, are likewife two baffo relievos in porphyry of Chrift 
 and the Madonna. 
 
 It contains moreover the following pictures. 
 
 St. Jerom penitent in the defert, over the altar, by Titian, who 
 alfo painted the allegorical pi<Sture next to it, which reprefents 
 Faith, Juftice, Religion, the Spanifh monarchy, &c. with a 
 diftant view of fhips at fea. 
 
 The fons of Jacob, fhewing him Jofeph's bloody garment. One 
 of thebeft pidures that Velafquez ever painted. All the figures 
 are as large as the life, 
 
 Dott
 
 S P A I K. 137 
 
 Don Diego Velafquez de Silva was born in 1594, at Seville, 
 and died in j66o at Madrid : he travelled in Italy for improve- 
 ment : his ftylc is much like that of Caravaggio, and he is 
 efteemed to have been one of the heft Spanifh painters. 
 
 Efther before Ahafuerus; a very large pidure, by Tintoret. 
 Efthcr is here reprefented as a languifhing beauty. 
 
 The Madonna and Bambino, St. John and St. Elizabeth : the 
 figures about half as large as the life. Leonard da \'inci. 
 
 St. Rofalia penitent, by Van Dyke. She looks up to heaven, 
 one hand refls on a fkull, the other prefies her breafl, and a little 
 flying angel crowns her with rofes. 
 
 Chrift at the table of the Pharifee, with the weeping Mag- 
 dalen. Tintoretto. 
 
 St. Sebaftian : Irene and another woman are extrading the 
 arrows out of his body; angels are reprefented flying above, 
 and bearing a crown of martyrdom. By Spagnoletto. 
 
 The Flight into Egypt. Titian. In this pidure is a boy hold* 
 ing a horfe. 
 
 " In the Sala Aulilla. 
 
 The famous pidure known by the name of the Glory of 
 Titian. I am informed there are prints extant of this pidure, 
 but I never faw one of them. It was painted for the monaftery 
 of i:t. Jufte, and was brought here together with the body of 
 Charles V. It reprefents the three perfons and the Virgin in 
 heaven : a damfel allegorically reprefenting the Church, offers to 
 them Charles V. his wife, and Philip IL who are introduced 
 
 T by
 
 138 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 by angels between the clouds : feveral faints of the Old Tefta- 
 ment are alfo painted in heaven. The figures are about half as 
 large as the life. 
 
 A large Annunciation, by Paul Veronefe. 
 
 The Sepulchre of Chrift. Titian. 
 
 St. Margaret, as large as the life, with the dragon at her feet, 
 by Titian. One of her thighs, which was naked, is daubed over 
 by a common painter, out of an imaginary regard to decency;- 
 and thus one of the raoft capital pidures in the Efcorial. 
 is fpoiled.. 
 
 This indifcreet zeal prevails even in Italy ; the famous paint- 
 ing in frefco, of the laft Judgment, by Michael Angelo, in the- 
 Sixtine chapel in the Vatican at Rome, has all the nudities daub- 
 ed over with blue paint, though, it muft be owned, that accord- 
 ing to the print, decency appears to have been grofsly violated;- 
 a devil is reprefented pulling a man down, fcroto ; and a ferpent 
 is twifted round the waill of another figure, mordet pefum. , 
 
 In the Villa Pamphili near Rome, all the antique marble 
 ftatues have their nudities covered with plaifter, which eats into 
 the marble, and can never be got off. At la Venerie, which is 
 a feat of the king of Sardinia, near Turin, all the nudities of the 
 ftatues are in like manner plaiftered. And in St. Peter's church 
 at Rome, the great maufoleum of pope Paul III. is decorated with 
 two ftatues of Prudence and Juftice ; the latter is a large and 
 beautiful woman of white marble, which was quite naked ; but a 
 
 fucceeding
 
 N. 
 
 139 
 
 fucceeding pope caufed it to be partly covered with a bronze 
 drapery, as he was informed that a Spaniard had been fenfible 
 of its beauties in a very unphilofophical manner. 
 
 There are various other good pidures preferved in the Efco- 
 rial, painted by Baffano, Jerom Bofco, Carduccio, Herrera, 
 Caravajal, Pantoja, Peregrino, Romulo Cincinnato, Giorgione, 
 Zucaro, and Maflacio. 
 
 I departed from the Efcorial on the i6th of March, and pro*- 
 ceeded on the royal road. There are ftones at every half league 
 •to mark the diftance : the firft league traverfes the royal park, 
 which is walled in ; coming out of this park I difcovered Madrid, 
 at five leagues diftance : we then pafled over a handfome ftone 
 bridge of feven arches, and foon after we flopped an hour and a 
 half at a venta to let the mules reft: we afterwards pafled over 
 a fmall ftone bridge of tv/o arches, on one fide of which is a 
 ftatue of king-faint Ferdinand III. and on the other fide, one re- 
 prefenting Spain in the figure of a woman, both of marble : 
 they were ereded in 1750. We then entered the corfo^ or mall, 
 which is on the banks of the little river Manfanarez, and has a 
 xlouble row of trees' on each fide, with lamps between them : it 
 was at that time full of coaches, each drawn by fix mules, flow- 
 ly following each other, and then returning. We entered Madrid 
 at five in the evening, through the gate of Toledo, which is op- 
 pofite to the magnificent bridge of the fame name, and put 
 
 T 2 up
 
 I40 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 up at the inn called the Crofs of Malta, kept by Italians, in as 
 elegant a manner both as to the apartments and entertainment as 
 any inn in England : it is fituated in the Calle de Alcala^ which 
 is the chief ftreet in Madrid, and is broad enough for twenty 
 coaches a-breaft, and of a very confiderable length. My firft 
 care was to difmifs the chaife, mules, horfe, and drivers, who had 
 brought me from Lifbon. 
 
 I then walked about the town, and obferved that the names 
 of the ftreets were painted on the corner houfes ; that the houfes 
 were all numbered ; that there were as many lamps as there are 
 in the ftreets of London ; that the paving was as regular and 
 neat as can be imagined ; and that, moreover, the ftreets were 
 kept fo clean, that I never faw any neater, not even in the 
 cities in Holland ; whereas, ten years ago, Madrid might have 
 vied with Edinburgh in its former ftate, for filthinefs. 
 
 I next day waited on his excellency lord Grantham, his ma- 
 jefty's ambaflador to this court, and was received with great 
 politenefs by that noblerrian. 
 
 I gladly embrace this opportunity of acknowledging the many 
 favours conferred on me during my ftay in Madrid by Alexan— 
 der Munro, Efq. his majefty's conful-general. 
 
 As it was Lent, all public diverfions were fufpended. I firft 
 "vifited the new royal palace, begun in 1736, which is perhaps 
 
 the
 
 SPAIN. 141 
 
 the grandeft and moil fumptuous of any in Europe * : it is fquare, 
 and built of white flonc, on the moft elevated extremity of the 
 town : the front is four hundred feet in length, as I meafured 
 it myfelf, and is of three flories in height, each of twenty-one 
 windows ; one the top is a baluftrade, ornamented with ftone 
 "vafes. There are five doors in front ; over the middle door is a 
 gallery fupported by four columns. At the back front is a grand, 
 flight of ileps. The architeft of this palace is Signer Sacchetti, 
 an Italian, who flill lives in Madrid, though very old and in- 
 firm. The grand cortile is a fquare of one hundred and ninety- 
 five feet. The dome of the chapel is fupported by fixteen marble 
 columns. The grand faloon of ftate is one hundred and twenty 
 feet in length, and has five windov/s in front; it is entirely 
 hung with crimfon velvet, richly embroidered with gold, and 
 farther ornamented with twelve of the looking-glafles made at' 
 St. Ildefonfo, each ten feet high, and in magnificent frames,, 
 and with twelve tables of the fineft Spanifh marbles. The ceil- 
 ing was painted in frefco, in ij(i^i by Tiepolo the Venetian, 
 who died here lately- 
 
 I had before feen all the palaces of the kings of England, 
 France, Sardinia, Naples, Pruifia, and Portugal ; thofe of the 
 pope, the emperor, and of feveral German princes ; and I give 
 the preference to this ; but it may pofilbly be equalled by the 
 
 * The old palace was burnt down in 1734, and two years were employ- 
 ed in excavating the ruins, 
 
 palace
 
 14Z TP. AVELS THROUGH 
 
 ■palace which the king of Naples is now building at Caferta, and 
 of which I faw part in 1769. 
 
 In the fixteenth volume of /e Fojageur Fra-n^ois, publifhed in 
 Taris in 177?, is the following ill-natured paiTage concerning 
 this palace, which will ferve to fhew how the French in general 
 defpife every thing out of France, unlefs it fiiould happen to be 
 the performance of a French artift. Indeed there are no nations 
 which fo cordially hate each other as the Spanifh and the 
 French : thefe are in Spain called Gavachos. My French fervant, 
 Baptifte, has many times had a fuite of boys and women ridicul- 
 ing him, and crying out, wi/i, wik, Gtivac/w, 3cc. In p. 288, 
 %ve read, 
 
 " I know not whether I ought to mention the new palace, 
 " which, though more than fifty millions of livres have been 
 " fpent upon it, is not yet finiflied, and perhaps never will, for 
 *' want of money. It is a great fquare building, fituated on a 
 *' mountain, near the edge of the river, and looks more like a 
 *♦ Benedidtine convent than a royal houfe. The interior parts 
 *'• are, however, pretty well diftributed, though they have a 
 " very melancholy afpe£l, becaufe the edifice is clofe and maf- 
 " five. It does not appear that it can have large gardens : I was 
 *' told that fome were intended to be conftrufted amphitheatre- 
 ** wife, which will be the more fingular, as the defcent Is very 
 ** rapid. They will be feen terminated by the Mancanarez, 
 *' and by the bald hills which rife in heaps on the white and 
 *'' ftony foil of the environs of Madrid."
 
 SPAIN. 143 
 
 How much more juftly could a Spaniard criticife on the won- 
 derful palace of Verfailles, as the French ftyle it. "When I was- 
 there in 1768, the ftatues in the gardens were broken and 
 tumbled down, the water-works were incapable of being played : 
 grafs grew between the crevices of the grand marble fteps : the 
 paintings in the palace were mouldering away; the looking- 
 glaffes were broken, and fpiders fpun. undifturbed by hoftile 
 brooms. 
 
 I fpent a whole day in viewing the pidures, of which the beft' 
 are fpecified in the following catalogue, not one of them are 
 mentioned in any defcription of Spain, though there are up- 
 wards of a hundred volumes ia various languages which treat of 
 Spain and Portugal ; indeed none of their authors, or compilers^ 
 were ever in this palace, except Mr. Baretti. The enfuing ac- 
 count I wrote on the fpot, having previoufly procured a Spanifh 
 painter to accompany and affift me. I mention feveral pictures 
 which are very fine, though I could not come at the knowledge 
 of the painter's name, nor was able to diftinguifh any charac- 
 teriftics of the more celebrated painters in them, but they all ap- 
 pear to be Italian ; fome future curious traveller may poffibly be 
 more fuccefsful in his enquiries.. 
 
 The firft room I went into has its celling painted in frefco, by 
 Tiepolo, reprefenting Apollo, and many other figures ; the com- - 
 pofition and execution almoft equal Luca Giordano, and the 
 colouring is fuperior to his. 
 
 Fbur;
 
 ,44 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 Four porphyry buRs are placed in the corners of this room, and 
 two antique marble bufiis on a table. 
 
 The chief pictures are : Sixteen portraits by Titian. 
 
 Si:c large and four fmall pidiures by Baffano. 
 
 A Madonna and three Saints ; half length ; natural fize. 
 
 A Man and Woman, ditto, ditto. 
 
 Two pidures reprefenting Prometheus and Sifyphus ; whole 
 length ; as large as the life. 
 
 Venus in her fhift, Cupid holding a looking-glafs to her. 
 
 Adam and Eve, the tree between them, round the trunk is 
 twilled the ferpent, with a handfome young man's head, an in- 
 genious way of accounting for Eve's fiailty. This pidure is 
 near eight feet fquare *. 
 
 * I remember to have fcen a marble baflb relievo on the outfide of the 
 Cirlebrated Carthufian convent, between Pavia and Milan, which likewife re- 
 prefents the ferpent with the head of a young man, with long flowing hair. 
 And behind the great altar of the cathedral of Pifa, are two very bad marble 
 {latues of Adam and Eve, as large as the life, with the ferpent reprcfented 
 in the fame manner. 
 
 In the church of St, Mary Impertica, in Pavia, I faw a painting reprefent- 
 ing the Virgin Mary ilanding on a cloud, fqueezing milk out of her breafts 
 into the mouths of the fouls in purgatory at her feet. 
 
 Another painting vvluch is in the Carthufian convent between Pavia and 
 Milan, reprefents Chrift {landing on the bafon of a fountain, fpouting blood 
 from the five wounds in his hands, feet, and fide, and underneath is this 
 infcription : 
 
 " Si quis fitit veniat ad me et bibat." 
 
 In the Cloifler, near the church of the Holy Ghoft in Florence, I faw a 
 painting in frefco, reprefenting St Nicholas in bed, a fervant holds a plate 
 on which is a roafted partridge; another of thefe birds is feen flying away : it 
 
 feems
 
 SPAIN. 145 
 
 A Venus, two Cupids, and two Nymphs, h. 1. n. f, 
 
 A Madonna and Child, with an old Man and five Girls ; 
 i 1. n. f. 
 
 A head of Chrifl:, and another of the Virgin. 
 
 All thefe pidures were painted by Titian. 
 
 An exa£b copy of the above-mentioned pidure of Adam and 
 Eve, by Rubens. 
 
 Judith and Holofernes ; w. 1. n. f. Tintoretto. 
 
 A Woman fitting, another Woman and a Boy flandingby her. 
 P. Veronefe. 
 
 Four pidures reprefenting Morning, Noon, Evening, and 
 Night, by Mengs, the Saxon painter, who, as I was lately 
 informed, returned to Madrid in July 1774. 
 
 feems, that the faint would not eat them, as it was a meagre day, but chofs 
 rather to raife them from the dead, furniihing them at once with life and 
 feathers; and, in recompenfe, the Madonna and her Bambino are feen 
 reaching a loaf of bread to the confcientious faint from the clouds. The in- 
 fcription underneath is, 
 
 " San Nicola col fegno dc]-a croce riiufcita due pernice arroftite." 
 
 This fubjecl is again reprefenteJ in a very fine pidltire by Luca Giordano, 
 which is in the Corfini palace in Florence. 
 
 The next painting in the above mentioned Cloiftcrs, is St. Auguftin in a 
 carpenter's fhop ; the bungling workman, who notwithrtanding was a monk, 
 had made a beam too fliort, fo liie faint takes hold of one end, and the car- 
 penter of the other, and pull it till it becomes of the length required. Tiic 
 infcription is, 
 
 " Una trave flirata da S. Agoftino e da un fuo religiofo fi flunga." 
 
 For an account of two other remarkable pidures, I refer the reader to Mr. 
 Wright's Travels in Italy, in p. 436, of the quarto edition, he has given a 
 plate of one he faw at Bologna ; and to the fifteenth volume of /^ Voyageitr 
 Sranfcis, ,p 288. 
 
 U An
 
 146 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 An Angel's head, as large as the life, in Roman mofaic. 
 
 In the next room the ceiling is circular, and is painted m 
 frefco by Mengs, who has there reprcfented Apollo and Venus,, 
 with the Four Seafons, in as many compartments. The pittures- 
 here are. 
 
 An Executioner flaying St. Bartholomew; half length, n. f. 
 by Spagnoletto. He might have chofen a more pleafmg fubje£l. 
 
 Two pidures, Women with balkets of flowers, by Carl<x 
 Maratti. 
 
 Six fmall pictures by Breughel. 
 
 A Painter's Shop. Teniers. 
 
 Eight very large hiftorical pieces, by Luca Giordano. 
 
 St. Laurence, by ditto. 
 
 The Annunciation ; n. f. w. 1. 
 
 The Nativity, with feveral fhepherds. Both by Murillo*.. 
 
 Four pidures of faints, as large as the life. Spagnoletto.. 
 
 A Magdalen. 
 
 A larger Magdalen. Both by Titian. 
 
 The next Room contains 
 
 A pidure which occupies nearly the whole of one end of that 
 room : it reprefents an Army marching, and is painted by Ve-- 
 lafquez. The principal figures are as large as the life. 
 
 * Bartholomew Stephen Murillo, was born near Seville, in 161 3, and 
 never was out of Spain : he died in i 685. His ftyle is in the manner of 
 Paul Veronefe, whom he. has fometimes nearly equalled. 
 
 At.
 
 SPAIN. 147 
 
 At the other end of the room is a very large pidure : a Pain- 
 ter is reprefented fitting at work. Luca Giordano has in this 
 piece endeavoured to imitate Ruhenb's manner, and has fucceed- 
 ed admirably well. 
 
 Four fmall flcetches by Rubens. 
 
 A Quack drawing a peafant's tooth : half length, natural fize. 
 Murlllo. 
 
 Tarquin and Lucretia, n. f. w. 1. Titian, 
 
 Two Amazons fighting, n. f. w. 1. Spagnoletto. 
 
 A Madonna and Bambino. Julio Romano. 
 
 Two portraits of Women. Leonard da Vinci. 
 
 Cephalus and Procris, n. f. w. 1. Paul Veronefe. 
 
 The Count-duke of Olivares on horfeback. This pidure is 
 allowed to be the iinefl: in its kind of any extant. 
 
 Bacchus with fix of his companions-. 
 
 Two pidures reprefenting two Kings of Spain on horfeback. 
 
 Two others, with two Queens of Spain on horfeback. Thefe 
 fix lafi: pidures are by Velafquez. All the figures are as large 
 as the life. 
 
 The Spanifh Prince Ferdinand on horfeback, n. f. Rubens. 
 
 Venus and Adonis, n. f Paul Veronefe. 
 
 A large hiftorical piece: the figures are 1 1. and n. f. Rubens. 
 
 Judith carrying Holofernes's head, n. f Murillo. The bloody 
 head ferves as a foil to the pretty face of the lady. 
 
 A fmall pidure by Rubens, reprefenting two Priefls on horfe- 
 back, with two Guides on foot. 
 
 U 2 A head
 
 14$ TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 A head, by Albert Durer. 
 
 Charles V. on horfeback, n. f. by Tiiian. There are prints. 
 of this piiSure extant. 
 
 Chrift felzed in the Garden, n. f. w. 1. Van Dyke. 
 
 Ifaac and Jacob. 
 
 Two pitStures with faints. Both by Spagnoletto. w. 1 n. f. 
 
 Chrift among the Dodors in tlie Temple. P. Veronefe. The- 
 architefture painted in this piece is very noble. 
 
 One fide of another room is covered by a pidure reprelenting 
 the Adoration of the Three Kings : there are upwards of twenty 
 figures as large as the life in this pidure : it was paiuted by: 
 Rubens ; and Luca Giordano added a piece to it to make it ofvf 
 the fize of the room. 
 
 Apollo, Pan, Midas, and another figure. 
 
 Saturn devouring one of his children. . 
 
 The Rape of Ganymede. 
 
 Mercury and. Argus., 
 
 Atalanta and another woman running. 
 
 UlyfTes. Thefe fix piduresare by Rubens : the figures as large - 
 as the life. 
 
 A fmall Chrift and St. John. ^ Rubens. 
 
 Four very large hiftorical pidures. Luea Giordano. , 
 
 A Martyrdom, w. 1. n. f. Spagnoletto. 
 
 Chrift bearing the Crofs. This pidure is painted on wood, 
 and confifts of upwards of twelve figures, of the natural fize, by 
 Raphael. 
 
 Ju.dith»
 
 SPAIN. 149 
 
 Judith, \A'ith a fervant maid carrying Holofernes's head. w. 1. 
 n. f. Tintoretto. 
 
 A very fine Magdalen, n. f. half length. Van Dyke. 
 
 A copy, by Mengs, of the celebrated Nativity of Correggio, 
 which is at Drefden, in the eledor's colledlon. There are two 
 different prints of this pidlure extant. 
 
 A very large pldure by the Dutch Jordaans, with dead game, 
 fwans, greens, two old men, and an old woman. 
 
 Centaurs carrying off women, n. f. w. 1. 
 
 Mercury and Cadmus fowing men. n. f. w. 1, Both by Rubens.. 
 
 St. Paul with a Monk in a defart ; a raven brings them a loaf 
 of bread. The figures are two feet in height. This is one of 
 the moft capital paintings of Velafquez. 
 
 Venus and Adonis with four dogs. n. f. Titian. 
 
 A very large and pleafing pid:ure by Rubens, reprefenting- 
 Orpheus in a forelt playing to a numerous audience of all kinds 
 of birds and hearts, painted as large as the life. 
 
 A General and three Soldiers, w. 1. n. f. Titian. 
 
 A St. Sebaftian, half length, n. f; 
 
 A Man and Boy, half length, n. f Both by Spagnoletto. 
 
 Abfalom. This is a very large pidlure. By Luca Giordano. 
 
 A Woman fitting by a well. n. f P. Veronefe. 
 
 Two pidlures reprefenting Nymphs, Satyrs, and Cupids. The 
 figures two feet in height. By Titian. 
 
 Two copies of the fame, by Rubens ; who has alfo painted 
 the aext pidure, being 
 
 St.
 
 150 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 St. George on horfeback, flaying the dragon. Larger than 
 the life. 
 
 Sufannah and the Elders. P. Vcronefe. 1 1. n. f. 
 
 A fmall pidlure by Titian, reprefenting a concert of mufic. -^- 1. 
 
 The Brazen Serpent. Rubens. 
 
 Diana hunting. Ditto. The figures are of fix inches. 
 
 The Bull carrying off Europa. Titian. 
 
 Five large hiftorical piiflures, by Lanfranchi. 
 A ditto, by Coypel. The figures two feet high. I only men- 
 tion this pidlure, becaufe it is one of the worfl here. 
 A Landfcape, by Claude Lorraine. 
 
 Three Children playing with a Dwarf, n. f. Velafquez. 
 Philip III. offering his infant fon upon an altar, w. 1. n. f. 
 Titian. 
 
 Barbaroffa. w. 1. n. f. Velafquez. 
 
 A Madonna and Child. 
 
 St. John with his Lamb. Both by Murilio. 
 
 Portrait of a Woman. Rembrandt, h. 1. 
 
 Cupid on the back of a fwimming Dolphin. Rubens. 
 
 The frefco ceiling of this faloon was painted by Mengs, and 
 reprefents the affembly of all the gods and goddeffes. 
 
 In the king's bed-chamber, are fix pl£tures by Mengs : the 
 fubjeds of them are taken from Scripture, 
 
 Near
 
 SPAIN. 151 
 
 Near his majefly's bed, over the holy-water pot, is a large 
 head of Chrift in Roman mofliic. 
 
 In the fmall chapel adjoining, are two pictures by Mengs ; 
 one reprefenting the Nativity, and the other the Holy Family j 
 and in a clofet are two other Nativities, by the fame hand ; one 
 m oil colours, and the other in frefco. 
 
 In the laft room I faw, are twenty-four pictures, by Teniers. 
 St. Jerom, by Spagnoletto. 
 
 And the Sepulchre of Chrift, by Alexis Cano. This painter 
 was born in Granada in 1600, and died there in 1676. 
 
 The ceilings of many rooms in this palace are of ftucco, gilt 
 and painted, and feveral rooms are hung with tapeftry, made 
 at Madrid, which equals that made at the Gobelins in Paris. 
 
 A few days after, I went to fee the old palace, called El 
 Buen Retiro, i. e. The Good Retreat : It is fituatedjuft without 
 the gate of Alcala. The king never refides here. It is very 
 large. In the grand court is an equeftrian ftatue of Philip IV. 
 The extenfive gardens behind it are open to the public : in them 
 is an ample fquare lake. 
 
 The royal theatre in this palace Is very capacious, and has five 
 rows of boxes, fixteen to each row. The king's box is decorat- 
 ed, with foiu: pidures, by James Amiconi, a Venetian painter, 
 
 who
 
 132 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 who died here hi 1752. Here is Hkewife a good pldure of the 
 marquis of Santa Cruz, fuccouring the city of Geneva, by An- 
 thony Pcredii. This painter v>as born in ValladoHd, and died 
 in Madrid in 1669, aged feventy : he could neither read nor 
 write. The end of the ftage opens to the gardens, fo that the 
 profpefl may be varied and extended at pleafure. This theatre 
 is now no more made ufe of. It was here that Farinelli ufed to 
 perform in the Italian operas during the late reign. 
 
 There are a vafl: number of the large St, Ildefonfo looking- 
 glafies in the rooms of this palace, and many fine pictures, of 
 which the following are the moft remarkable : I could not learn 
 the names of the painters of all of them. 
 
 The ceiling of the grand faloon is painted in frefco by Luca 
 Giordano, and reprefents the inftitutlon of the order of the 
 Golden Fleece, in 1429, by Philip the Good, duke of Burgundy, 
 with a variety of allegorical figures. The cornices are painted by 
 Corrado. This faloon is fquare; one end opens into an odan- 
 gular room entirely pannelled with fmall bits of looking-glafs, 
 which refletSl images thoufands of times, fo that a fmgle 
 foldier when here appears to form whole a regiment. At the 
 other end is an oval room, the ceiling of which is painted ia 
 frefco, by Luca Giordano. 
 
 In one of the galleries here, is a very large pidure reprefent- 
 ing the late king and queen of Spain, with twelve other per- 
 
 fonages
 
 SPAIN. J Si 
 
 fonages of the royal family ; whole length, and as large as the 
 life, by Amiconi. The other pidures are, 
 
 Twelve fmall pieces, and two large, by BafTano. 
 
 Five with game, dogs, &c. Snyders. 
 
 A very large pi£lure with four Shepherds, three Shepherdefles, 
 and two Satyrs, by Rubens. The fi-uit, which is reprcfented in 
 this piece, is by Daniel Seegers. 
 
 Five large hiftorical pieces. 
 
 An allegorical pidure reprefenting Spain triumphant. 
 
 Orpheus and Eurydice. 
 
 Cephalus and Procris. All by Luca Giordano. The figures 
 as large as the life. 
 
 A Holy Family, n. f. w.l. I conjedure by Titian. 
 
 A Madonna flanding, with the child in her arms ; by Jor- 
 daans, in the manner of Rembrandt. 
 
 A Lion entangled in a net. Snyders. 
 
 Adam and Eve driven out of Eden by the angel, n. f. w. 1. 
 Probably by Titian, 
 
 Portrait of an old Cardinal in 152 1. I think by Quintia 
 Matfys, the blackfmith. 
 
 Three Women and a Man laughing and eating pap. } 1. n. f. 
 This is a very fine pidure, but I know not by whom it was 
 painted. 
 
 A Madonna and Bambino; which appeared to mc to have 
 heen painted by Leonardo da Vinci. 
 
 A King in his royal robes, and a General in armour, both fit- 
 ting, w. 1. n. f. 
 
 X A
 
 154 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 A fmall piece defigned for an attar ; the Three Perfons are re-^ 
 prefcnted above, and various fubjeds are painted in eight coni- 
 partments, by Baffano. 
 
 St. Jerom in the defart. | Figures of three feet. By Nicholas. 
 
 The Samaritan. J Pouffin. 
 
 Portrait of a man vpritlng. 
 
 Orpheus and the beafts. Titian, w. 1. n. f. 
 
 Tw^o flower pieces. 
 
 The Judgment of Paris. 
 
 Mercury and Argus, w. 1. n. f. Rubens. This lafl is a copy 
 of that which is in the new palace. 
 
 The Death of Dido ; copied from the pidlure painted by 
 Guido, which is preferved in Houghton-hall. 
 
 A Refurredion, by Francis Collantes, 1630. This is a very 
 fine, but horrible pldlure : many bodies appear to rife out of 
 their tombs, fome have only a little flefli on their bones, fomc 
 are reprefented as rotten, others with a livid palenefs, and wild 
 looks of horror and fear. The painter was born at Madrid, and 
 died in 1656, aged fifty-feven. 
 
 Twelve very large hiflorical pictures, four of which reprefent 
 the wars of Granada, the others are fubjeds from the Old Tefta- 
 ment, by Luca Giordano. 
 Seneca expiring in the bath. 
 
 Two or three pidures by Velafquez. 
 
 The pope celebrating mafsin the Sixtine chapel. Small figures. 
 
 In one of the rooms I faw a table of Florentine mofaic. 
 
 This
 
 N. 
 
 ^55 
 
 This palace was built by the count-duke of Olivares, in the 
 reign of Philip IV. and is fituated near the Prado, or 
 public Mall, which has lately been embellifhed, by planting 
 young trees on each fide of it, and by ftone benches and 
 fountains. 
 
 In the church of the Salefan nuns, over the great altar, is a 
 fine copy of Raphael's Transfiguration. 
 
 In the Sacrifty of the church de los Recoktos, are the follow- 
 ing pictures. 
 
 A dead Chrift fupported by two angels. As large as the life. 
 This is one of the beft pictures Correggio ever painted. 
 
 A Madonna, Bambino, St. Anne, and St. John. Half length, 
 n. f. Raphael. 
 
 A Magdalen's head. n. f. w. 1. Spagnoletto. 
 
 St. John, n f. w. I. El Mudo. 
 
 A head of Chrift, by Morales, in the manner of Albert Durer. 
 Morales was born at Badajoz, and died there in 1586, aged 
 ■feventy-fevcn. He was furnamed the Divine, becaufe he painted 
 nothing but holy fubjedl^. 
 
 Chrift and the Samaritan Woman, n. f. ByMurillo. 
 
 The Royal Library is open to the public, and confifts of two 
 long rooms, forming a right angle. 
 
 X 2 The
 
 156 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 The amphitheatre, confiruded m 1767, is a plain oval build- 
 ing, with three rows of galleries over each other. During the 
 carnival here are fixtccn mafquerades exhibited. The other 
 evenings of that feafon of ^ifl'ipation, are allotted to dancing 
 fandangos, minuets, and Englifli country-dances. Mr. Baretti 
 gives an account of this edifice, and the fandango, which, 
 though I had no opportunity of feeing in public here, by rea- 
 fon of its being Lent, yet I faw danced in various private af- 
 femblies in Madrid, and afterwards in every place I was in. 
 The fury and ardour for dancing with which the Spaniards are 
 poffeffed on hearing the fandango played, recall to my mind the 
 impatience of the Italian race-horfes ftanding behind the rope, 
 which being fixed acrofs the ftreet breaft-hlgh reflrains them ; 
 and the A-^elocity and eagernefs with which they fet off, and run 
 without riders the inftant that that barrier is removed. 
 
 There are two kinds of fandangos, though they are danced to 
 the fame tune : the one is the decent dance ; the other is gallant, 
 full of expreflion, and, as a late French author energetically ex- 
 preffes it, " eft mele'e de certaines attitudes qui offrent un tableau , 
 *' continuel dc jouiflance." 
 
 In the didionary, entitled, Sobrino Atwientado por F. Cormon 
 printed at Antwerp in 1769, the Fandango is thus defcribed: 
 
 *' It is a kind of very lively dance, which the Spaniards have 
 *' learnt from the Indians." 
 
 I know .
 
 EL FANDANGO. 
 
 V\ \ ^'^ 
 
 A 
 
 rjiT J i rnjT ^ f^ 
 
 ^fe 
 
 LLrcx:'LULir ' L-U 
 
 * 
 
 P 
 
 rrrr i firrrrrN.^ , rrr i Trn r rftf|^ ^s 
 
 .:,/7; i j:ini i ;7in7 i -^^i/?j/7? i ffiffli/7Jffl i 
 
 'UJ ' rrrrrr ' rrf'rrr ' rrf f rr i LLTLLn Lu u j ii_u t -^ i 
 
 LU LIT ' Ci: LU w LIT 
 
 mjT] | n^J71 | JTjim.JT^^T^ 
 
 LULLT ' mLLf ' CXrUJ ' ^J ffi^ 
 
 E 
 
 rir:p,,i:;:p.. i Fyy ^^llj u--ri^rrrrrr'ffrfLa 
 
 w w > 
 
 m [IT 'Lff'lif ' LLr ll; ILU LLJ mr^ 'j: 'm iU 
 
 »» ■ • 
 
 
 * 
 
 H 
 
 ^ ^tCJTLr 
 
 czrcrr [£f[£r ' Lif,.L£-r 'uiui
 
 SPAIN. 157 
 
 r know not what foundation there is for this affertion. 
 
 The celebrated air, known by the name o£ la follia di Spagnay. 
 which, with its variations, is at the end of the fet of folos by 
 Corelli, was probably conipofed to gratify the defire of fome 
 Spaniard, who wilhed to have the favourite national dance of 
 his country immortalized by that great mufician. The modu- 
 lation of thtfollia is exadtly fimilar to that of xh.^ faiidd^igO) and 
 the name farther demonftrates the truth of this affertion *. 
 
 The circular amphitheatre for the bull-fights, is built of woodl- 
 and was eredled in 1749. Formerly thefe exhibitions were in 
 the Great Square, where there have been none fmce that in 
 1760, on the prefent king's acceffion. The inner circle, or 
 area of this amphitheatre, is one hundred and fixty feet in dia- 
 meter : there are two rows of covered boxes, one hundred and 
 ten in each row : the other feats are without any covering. The- 
 profits arifing from the hire of the places, are appropriated to 
 the benefit of the royal hofpitals. 
 
 The firil bull-fight I faw was in Andalufia, which 1 fhall de- 
 fcribe hereafter. 
 
 There are no hackney coaches in Madrid j but carojjcs de remife 
 may be had at about half a guinea per day. 
 
 * This remark was fuggefted to me by Mr. Giardini, who has likewife 
 been fo obliging as to fet a bafs to ^t fandango, of which the notes are in- 
 ferted in the annexed plate.
 
 158 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 Three weeks before my arrival in Madrid, two criminals had 
 "been hanged ; their heads and arms had been cut ofF, and ftuck 
 •on ports on the highway : they were now brought again to Ma- 
 ■drid, and expofed on an altar In the open ftreet, with a box to 
 receive alms, in order to pay for their burial, and for having 
 maffes faid for their fouls. This fight was highly difgufting, 
 the heads and arms being rotten, and emitting a very olFen- 
 five fmell. 
 
 Juft without the gate, at the end of the ftreet of Atocha, I 
 obferved fome very fine madder growing wild on one fide of the 
 road : I gathered a few of thefe plants, and afterwards, on mak- 
 ing enquiry how they came to grow^ here, I was informed, 
 that a few years ago a Dutchman had endeavoured to cultivate 
 madder, but had broke and left Spain, and that thefe were fome 
 ■of the plants which he had reared. 
 
 I afterwards fawr more madder growing wild in the garden of 
 the governor of Alicant, about two leagues from that city. No- 
 body there knew even what plant It was : It appeared to me to 
 be as fine and thriving as any I had fecn In Zealand. I never 
 found it in any other places In Spain. 
 
 Miller, in his Gardener's Dictionary, v. Ruir'a, fays, that he 
 received fome from Gibraltar and Minorca, where the plants 
 grew out of the crevices of the rocks. 
 
 The
 
 SPAIN. 159 
 
 The Great Square in Madrid is built around with houfes of an 
 equal height, on porticos. On one fide is an edifice appropriat- 
 ed to the ufe of the Royal Academy of Painting, Sculpture, and 
 Architedure : feme of the members were at that time fent to 
 Granada, to take plans and drawings of the Alhambra, or 
 Moorifh palace of that city, which I fhall defcribe hereafter. 
 There are three other Royal Academies in Madrid, that of the. 
 Spanifli Language, that of Hiflory, and that of Phyfic. 
 
 A printing-prefs for mufic was lately eftablifhed here : I pur* 
 chafed fome of this mufic very neatly engraven. 
 
 Don Manuele Salvador Carmona is the chief Spanifh engra- 
 ver j his prints are well known in England and in France : he 
 ftudied the art in Paris, at the expence of his fovereign. 
 
 Don Thomas Lopez is the king's geographer, and is now 
 publifhlng a fet of large maps of each of the provinces of Spain 
 and Portugal : they are defetlive in point of longitude and 
 latitude, but carefully mark every village and venta. A plan 
 of Madrid was publifhed in four large fheets in 1761. 
 
 Don Lewis Boccherini, the celebrated violoncello player and 
 compofer, refides here : he is an Italian. 
 
 There are two theatres in Madrid for the performance of 
 Spanilh plays: I faw rope-dancing in one of them, which was 
 
 El.
 
 i6o TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 El theatro de la Cruz, where there are three rows of boxes, 
 fifteen in each row. Part of the pit has benches, with arms di- 
 viding them into diftind feats. It may not be thought improper 
 to give the plot of a Spanifli comedy, and afterwards that of an 
 entremes, or interhide : this latter will match that of which Mr. 
 Baretti has given an account. 
 
 The comedy is called Difdain •with Difdain, was written 
 by Don Auguflin Moreto, and is efteemed one of the beft 
 Spanifh plays ; it is in three ads (as they all are), in a kind of 
 meafured profe, and fometimes in verfe. The adors are, 
 The Earl of Urge!, ^ 
 
 The Prince of Bearne, \ three fuitors of Diana. 
 
 Don Gafton Earl of Foix, J 
 The Earl of Barcelona, father of Diana. 
 Polilla, a Buffoon ; fervant to the Earl of Urgel, 
 Diana, daughter to the Earl of Barcelona. 
 Cinthia, "| 
 
 Phenifa, | three Ladies of the court of Diana. 
 Laura, J 
 Muficians. 
 
 The fcene is in the Earl's palace in Barcelona during the 
 whole play, excepting that, for a fhort time, in the fecond ad it 
 is in the garden of the palace. 
 
 The play begins with a dialogue between the earl of Urgel 
 •and his fervant, in which the earl acquaints him with his paf- 
 
 flOB
 
 SPAIN. i6r 
 
 fion for Diana, and gives a long account of the uncommon dif- 
 pofition of that princefs, who profeffes an unconquerable aver- 
 fion to love, and had rather fufFer death than be married, 
 though fhe is the only hcircfs to the fovereignty: Polilla com- 
 forts him, and encourages him to hope for an alteration in the 
 princefs's opinions. 
 
 To them enter the earl of Barcelona, the prince of Bearne, 
 and Don Gafton. Thq three fuitors alk the father's leave to try 
 to gain the affedions of his daughter, by feafts, affiduities, &c. 
 Urgel pretends that his trial is only out of complaifance. They 
 all retire, and then Diana, the three ladies, and their attendants 
 enter. Her muficians are finging fongs againft love, profefFing 
 an utter averfion to that weaknefs. 
 
 Polilla enters, and by dint of buffoonery, gets received into 
 the houfe as Diana's buffoon, concealing his belonging to Urgel. 
 Then the earl of Barcelona, and the three princes enter. 
 Diana explains to them her reafons againfl: marriage ; Urgel 
 alone feigns to approve of them, and tells her, that he not only 
 hates to love, but moreover hates to be beloved. She, furprifed 
 to be outdone at her own weapons, difputes with him, and, by 
 contradidting her, he artfully drav/s her to a confcffion, that 
 though fhe does not, nor cannot love, neverthelefs fhe likes to 
 be beloved. The count pretending it impofhble for all the charms 
 <of woman to move him ; this piques Diana, who is refolved to ufe 
 
 Y every
 
 i62 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 every method to enamour him : fhe retires, which concludes 
 the firft ad. 
 
 The fecond ad begins with a dialogue between Urgel and 
 Polilla : the fervant affures his mafter, that if he can but con- 
 tinue to diflemble a little longer, fhe will love him, and even 
 court him herfclf. They retire, and Diana enters with her 
 ladies. Diana complains toCinthia of Urgel's infenfibility ; and, 
 as at an entertainment, to be given by the princes, each lady was. 
 to have a diflFerent coloured riband hidden, and each gentleman 
 was to chufe his colour, fo that the lady who had that colour be- 
 came his partner for the day, Diana puts ribands of all colours 
 in her pocket, in order to be provided with any which Urgeh 
 might chufe. 
 
 To them enters Urgel. She, after fome converfation, aflcs 
 him, Vv^hether if he were to be beloved by her he would love 
 her ? he flatly anfwers in the negative : fhe burfts into a pafTion, 
 and he retires. Afterwards the flage fills with ladies and gentle- 
 men, who chufe colours, and the ladies fhow their ribands. 
 Diana is matched with Urgel, and is handed by him* he, mov- 
 ed by her touch, is unable to conceal his pafTion any longer, and 
 makes a declaration of it. She triumphs over him, and is going 
 to difcard him ; upon which he immediately turns the tables, 
 and pretends that he was only injeft: fhe is fo vexed that fhe 
 feigns ficknefs to avoid being prefent at the ball, and difcharges 
 
 him::
 
 SPAIN. 163 
 
 him : he fhews great joy at being difmiiTed, thanks her, and 
 leaves her, as he perceives Ihe is in a rage. 
 
 The fcene then changes to a garden, in which Diana and her 
 ladies, in an undrefs, (it being evening), fits finging, in order 
 to endeavour to conquer the earl by mufic. 
 
 The earl and Polilla enter, the ladies fihg, and the earl fhows 
 a grtat defire to join them j but Polilla humoroufly holds a 
 dagger at his face, to prevent him from looking round at them, 
 forcing him to praife the beauty of the gardens, to admire the 
 ftatues, fountains, &c. not taking the leaft notice of poor 
 Diana ; who, vexed to find herfelf fo grofsly flighted, queftions 
 the earl how he dares enter the garden and intrude on her 
 privacy, though fhe herfelf had employed Polilla, (who all along 
 has been her go-betv>reen), little fufpedting his deceit, to entice 
 the earl into the garden : he excufes himfelf, pretending not to 
 have known that fhe had been there, and retires. Polilla 
 then politely tells her, that the earl grofsly defpifed her fqualling; 
 which concludes the fecond adl. 
 
 The third and iaft a£l begins with a converfation between the 
 three princes. Bearne and Don Gallon tell Urgel that they will 
 take Cinthia and Phenifa, pretending to be in love v/ith them, 
 being convinced of the impoflibility of fucceeding with Diana; 
 which accordingly they do, and court them in Diana's prefence, 
 who can hardly contain herfelf, at feeing others thus preferred 
 
 y 2 to
 
 i64 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 to her, and endeavours to recall the two princes to her obedi- 
 ence, by feeming to defpife the weak charms of their belles^ and 
 by granting them fome flight favours. 
 
 Being left alone -^vith Urgel, (he, as her lafl refource, ac- 
 quaints him, that having maturely confidered her being an only 
 child, fhe is at laft become fenfible of the folly of her antipathy 
 to marriage, is determined to acquielce in her father's defire, 
 and has accordingly chofen the prince ofBearne, attempting to 
 excite Urgel's jealoufy, and awaken his love, by a long fpeech 
 in praife ofBearne. Urgel approves her refolution greatly, tells 
 her he will fly to acquaint Bearne with his good fortune, and 
 that himfelf is become a votary to^ the charms of Laura, and 
 leaves Diana in a ftate of defpair. 
 
 In the laft fcene all the adors being aflTembled, the princefs, 
 unable to conceal her love any longer, and fearing to lofe Urgel; 
 openly avows her paffion for him : he then difcovers his 
 artifice, and they are united, which concludes the piece; 
 wherein the author has fliown great judgment and know^ 
 ledge of women : many ftrokes of humour are difperfed through- 
 out Polilla's fpeeches ; the arguments pro and con about love 
 are very ingenious. Though the dramatic unities are little re- 
 garded, the time being ten or twelve days, this comedy is ftill 
 a£led on moft of the Spanifh theatres, and is a ftanding play. 
 The proper title would be Difdainfor Difdain. The incidenta 
 are all natural and fimple, which makes the plot the more beau- 
 
 tifuJi,
 
 SPAIN. 165 
 
 tiful, and capable of being imitated in any language, becaufe 
 women being nearly alike in all countries, this is not a mere 
 charaderiftical Spanifh play.. 
 
 The Entremes, which now follows, is of a different nature : 
 it is entitled the Hog of St. Anthony. The dramatis perfonae: 
 are, a Hufband, his Wife, a Conftable, a Sacriftan, and a 
 Sow-gelder. 
 
 The hufband enters penfively, and in a follloquy declares,, 
 that he fufpedls his wife's having a criminal intercourfe with, 
 the Sacriflan. 
 
 He furprifes them converfing together; the facriftan walks 
 off, and the hufband beats his wife till fhe confefTes, that the 
 facriftan told her he loved her. The hufband tells her he is 
 obliged to go to a diftant village, where he will remain all- 
 night, but intends to go only to his neighbour's houfe, in or- 
 der to watch her. 
 
 Soon after his departure fhe apprifes the facriflan of it, who 
 comes for admittance, counterfeiting the mewing of a cat. He- 
 tells her, that he is at her feet attending her commands, 
 " From age to age, for ever and ever, amen." 
 
 She advifes him to a£t cautioufly, becaufe her hufband was 
 but juft gone, and might foon return. He anfwers, that his 
 
 headr-
 
 ,66 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 liead-picce will find a remedy for every thing, and that fhc 
 may make him pals for St. Anthony's hog. In the mean time, 
 the hufband knocks at the door, and the wife orders the facrif- 
 tan to get into the hog-fty. The hufband calls to his wife to 
 open the door, and (he tells him to wait till fhe has put on her 
 fhift : flie then lets him in. He accufes her of changing colour, 
 fattens the door, and declares he will fearch the houfe. The 
 wife implores the afliftance of the Virgin Mary, and vows to 
 offer her a little filver facriftan, if flie delivers her out of this 
 fcrape. The hufband fearches every where, and fees fomething 
 move in the hog-fly. His wife tells him it is St. Anthony's 
 hog that was brought there the day before, becaufe it fpoiled 
 the garden, and that fhe had fafkened it with a rope. The fa- 
 criftan runs on all four, with a hog's head faftened over his 
 own. The hufband, who feigns to miflake him for a real hog, 
 afks his wife whether it is gelt ? She anfwers, that to her cer- 
 tain knowledge it is not. The fow-gelder paffes by, and the 
 hufband goes out to call him in. The facriftan fays, " thou 
 *' devil of a woman, what fhall I do, if they take away my ap- 
 *' pendages?' She anfwers, " Heaven will provide againfl it." 
 The hufband goes to fetch a cord to tie its feet : in the mean 
 time, the facriftan fwears, that he will drink the blood of the 
 fow-gelder if he fbrs. This poor fellow cries out, " libera me 
 " domine." The hufband returns, and fays, " I will difarm 
 " this hog that wanted to arm me :" he throws a noofe over 
 him ; the facriftan ftruggles, and they fight. The con- 
 ilablc hearing the noife, breaks open the door, and feparates 
 
 them,
 
 SPAIN. 167 
 
 them, which concludes this Ingenious and elegant entertain- 
 ment *. 
 
 Between the comedy and the farce, tonadillas are fung : thefe 
 are cantatas for two, three, or four voices, the mufic of which 
 is national and uncommon, and confifts of three or four airs, 
 fet in different keys, and different movements. After this per- 
 formance there is ufually a fandango danced on the ftage. A 
 feguedilla is only a part of a tonadilla. 
 
 Next door to the Inn where I lodged, lived la Signora Belluo- 
 mini, daughter to the late Signor Amiconi, the painter : that 
 lady poffelfes many pi<a;ures painted by her father. Her filler, 
 Lt. Signora Caftellini, paints portraits in Crayons extremely well,, 
 and both thefe ladies are perfedly llcilled in vocal and inftru- 
 mental mufic. I generally fpent the evenings with them, or at 
 the houfe of the countefs of Benevento with Mr. Munro, where 
 moft of the Spanifli nobility reforted, but no ladies, excepting 
 her daughter, who is married to a fon of the duke of Ofluna. 
 On Saturdays there was a terliilia, or rout, at the houfe of the 
 Chevalier Touffaint, where I had the pleafure of meeting with a 
 great number of Spanifh ladies. 
 
 I went one Sunday to the church of Atocha, juft without the 
 gates, and there faw his catholic majefty, king Charles III. He 
 
 * See ]e Voyageur Francois, vol. ,\vi.. p. 216, 0:1 the ful'jciSl of the 
 Spanifh. theatre, 
 
 id
 
 i68 TP. AVELS THROUGH 
 
 13 of a very brown complexion, and the portraits of him which 
 are dlfperfed throughout Europe are very Hke him. He was at 
 that time fifty-feven years of age ; his brother, Don Lewis, was 
 with him : he was forty-fix. The prince of Afturias, Bon 
 Carlos, heir to the crown, vt'as likewife there, with his two 
 brothers, the infante Don Gabriel, aged twenty, and the infante 
 Don Antonio, aged fixteen. The prince of Afturias, who is 
 one of the talleft and ftrongeft men in the kingdom, is twenty- 
 five years of age, and is married to the princefs Louifa of Parma, 
 who is twenty-one, by whom he has two children ; the eldeft 
 fon was born in 1771. I afterwards faw the king's daughter, 
 the infanta Donna Maria, who is twenty-nine years of age, and 
 ftill unmarried. 
 
 The king's eldeft fon, Don Philip, refides in Naples, and 
 was declared incapable of fucceeding to the crown, by reafon of 
 an invincible weaknefs of underftanding. 
 
 His majefty's third fon is the prefent king of Naples, 
 Ferdinand IV. and his fecond daughter is the prefent grand- 
 duchefs of Tufcany. 
 
 All the royal family, when on the road, order their carriages 
 to be driven as faft as the mules can pofFibly gallop : many of 
 thefe poor beafts are daily killed by this means, but there are 
 always relays on the road. 
 
 One
 
 SPAIN. 169 
 
 One of the moft confplcuous buildings in Madrid, is the cuf- 
 tom-houfe, which was built in 1769, in the ftreet of Alcala : 
 it is of white ftone, has feventeen windows and five doors in 
 in front, and is four flories in height. 
 
 The poft-office is a very large and handfome brick building. 
 Letters cannot be franked from this kingdom to any place 
 whatfoever. 
 
 I did not go to the Pardo., which is one of the king's feats, 
 about fix miles from Madrid, as I was informed that there 
 were no piclures preferved there, nor any thing worthy of 
 obfervation. 
 
 Four leagues from Madrid, near the road to Alcala, is the 
 village of Mejorada, where there is a very elegant chapel in the 
 church, and two curious holy-water vafes, one of which is of 
 marble, and reprefents a group of three boys holding a bafon. 
 The other is a vafe fupported by a fingle figure as large as the 
 life, fitting aftride on a winged monfter, which ferves for a pe- 
 deflal. They were probably made in Italy. 
 
 In the facrifty, is a large pidure reprefenting the Flight into 
 Egypt, by Luca Giordano. 
 
 About a league further is the village of Loeches. 
 
 Z This
 
 170 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 This village contains a nunnery of theDominicanorder, found- 
 ed by Don Gafpar de Guzman, count-duke of Olivares, and prime 
 minifter of Philip IV. which monarch generoufly contributed to its 
 embellifhment. The church is celebrated for being the repofitory 
 of the following capital pidures. Four fmall landfcapes on the 
 front of the great altar, in which are reprefented the Virgin and 
 Child refling themfelves ; feveral angels hovering about them : 
 the Nativity: the Adoration of the Three Kings: and a 
 Holy Family, in which the child is afleep in its mother's arms. 
 
 Over thefe are two pictures, each of about twelve feet 
 fquare : the firft is called the Triumph of Religion, and is 
 compofed of the following figures; four angels drawing a car, 
 in which Religion is fitting, clothed in fcarlet, with a white veiU 
 which, however, does not cover her face ; whereas, Faith is 
 reprefented with her face veiled, {he holds a chalice In her hand ;. 
 an angel precedes bearing a crofs in his hand, with a fphere at 
 his feet, and another angel accompanies him with a lighted 
 torch : four figures follow the car, chained like flaves ; one of 
 them is a woman with many breafts, reprefenting Herefy : 
 many fmall angels fly before with different triumphal crowns. 
 The other pidure reprefents Abraham, and Mclchifedech who 
 is offering him loaves of bread, and receiving the tythe of the 
 fpoils ; the facerdotal habits of the two chief figures, and the 
 armour of the foldiers, manifeft the vaft fecundity of the pain- 
 ter's ideas, though he has not much attended to the habits fup- 
 pofed to be ufed at that time. 
 
 Over
 
 SPAIN. 171 
 
 Over \he rails of the choir, are two pidures as large as thefe 
 laft ; one of which reprefents four Doctors of the Church, with 
 St. Thomas, St. Clara, and St. Buenaventura. In the other are 
 painted the four Evangelifts, with their attributes : all thefe 
 figures are ftanding, and as large as the life. This pidure will 
 foon be fpoiled, if the frame be not repaired, as it now hangs 
 in folds. 
 
 In another part of the church are two pidures equally large. 
 One is Elias in the Defart ; an angel appears to him and com-- 
 forts him. The other is a reprefentation of the Ifraelites receiv- 
 ing manna from heaven : this fubjed is feigned to be painted 
 on a diftind piece of canvafs, which is held by boys. 
 
 All thefe ten piBures are by Rubens ; and, for expreifion and 
 colouring, are equal to any of that great painters works. 
 
 There are feveral very good copies from Titian, Van Dyke, 
 and Veronefe, in the facrifty ; and one large pidure of St. Do- 
 minic raifing a man from the dead, by Tintoretto. In the Spa- 
 nifh account of Loeches, which was printed in 'ijj^t are the 
 following judicious refledions ; but no attention has been paid to 
 them. Defcribing the altar, the author fays, 
 
 " Upon the altar is a tabernacle of the Corinthian order, made 
 *' of ebony, lapis lazuli, and various metals ; it is ornamented 
 " with columns in a good tafte : but that there might not want 
 
 Z 2 *• a blot
 
 172 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 *' a blot to efFace the beauty of this curious altar, they have- 
 *' placed on it a number of candlefticks on fleps, and feverat 
 " faints of wood, very badly carved : thefe ferve to hide the 
 " pidures, and the lights to blacken, and poflibly to burn them. 
 *' Many altars in Madrid are in like manner covered with com- 
 " buftible materials, fo that the pidures cannot be difcovered, 
 " and which every perfon of tafte and judgment laughs at. I, 
 " -who cannot contain myfelf on feeing fuch inconfiftencies, 
 " complained highly of thefe, but in vain, as I had invincible 
 *• ignorance to combat with. What fhall we fay of that foolifli 
 *' cuftom, of transforming the altars on feflivals into a cupboard 
 " of all forts of plate, as if it were the fide-board of a great en- 
 " tertainment ? Another cuflom ftill more ridiculous and defpi^ 
 '* cable, is that of fubflituting pafteboard pafted over with filver- 
 " ed paper, infteadof the real plate, which was ufually ftolen 
 " among the crowd. Many of our altars are alfo ornamented 
 " with carved fefloons of grapes, melons, cucumbers, &c. one 
 '* might imagine them to be offerings from the Scythians to. the- 
 " divinities who proteded their plants.." 
 
 I myfelf remember to have feen in the church of our Lady of 
 the Stairs, or Ladder (Madonna della Scala), in Parma, a pidure 
 of the Virgin and Child by Correggio, and one of his bell works 
 in frefco, over the heads of which the priefts had nailed two large 
 filver crowns. Rifufn teneat'is amici ! 
 
 A cuftom peculiar to the Spaniards is that of affixing a. 
 paper on certain days to a church door, on which is written^.
 
 SPAIN. 173 
 
 Oyfefaca Auima, meaning. To-day a foul is extradted out of 
 purgatory. Mr. Baretti likewife takes notice of this peculiarity. 
 According to the Madrid Almanac for 1773, I find that the days 
 appointed for this humane a£lion, performed by celebrating parti- 
 cular maffes, were the 7th of February, which was St. Richard 
 king of England's day * : 2d, i 3th, and 14th of March ; :d, 
 3d, and 14th of April; 3d, 5th, and 13th of June; which ia 
 no more than ten fouls refcued in a year. During the winter 
 months they are left in purgatory, probably to keep themfelves 
 warm, though the delivering them all at once would be as prac- 
 ticable as one at a time. Thefe maffes are only efficacious when 
 celebrated in the chapel of the new royal palace in Madrid ; in any 
 other place they lofc their virtue. For the truth of a foul's being 
 delivered, we have the teftimony of the prieft and the Almanac, 
 which are as valid as that of the waterman, who affirmed that 
 he had ferried St. Peter over from Lambeth to Weftminfter, 
 when he came to confecrate the Abbey, In the church of the 
 convent of the Incarnation in Madrid, there is every year ex- 
 pofed to the public, on the 27th of July,, a phial with fome of 
 the blood of St. Pantaleon, which on that day liquifies, 
 and afterwards remains coagulated, as the Spanifh book fays f. 
 
 * 111 the church of St. Frediano, in Lucca, I obferved a monument, 
 with this infcription : 
 
 Hie jacet corpus 
 S. Ricardi, regis Angliit. , 
 
 f See Mr. Addifon's Remarics on Italy, p. 122, where he quotes a few 
 lines from Horace relative to a fiaiilar trick. 
 
 When
 
 174 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 When I was at Naples, I faw the annual miracle (iS it is called) 
 of the liquefadlon of the blood of St. January; I refpeftfully 
 killed the two bottles which contain this precious blood, but 
 could perceive no difference in it before nor after the miracle : 
 this was on the 6th of May, 1760, at feven in the evening. 
 There are two bottles inclofed in a large one, though very black 
 and fcarcely tranfparent ; an altar was erected in the middle of 
 the ftreet in a temporary chapel, and the prieft fhook the bottle 
 for eleven minutes and a half, he then rang a bell, and cried 
 out that the miracle was done, " il miracolo e fatto.'''' For which 
 the mob and 1 took his word, and returned quietly to our 
 homes, much edified by this exhibition. This blood has like- 
 wife an inherent power of flilling the raging eruptions of Mount 
 Vefuvius, but is never made ufe of upon thofe occafions, 
 through fear of wearing it out. Thirty-fix filver bulls of faints, 
 as large as the life, were carried in proceffion to fee the miracle ; 
 fomc of them had live fparrows and goldfinches tied by a thread 
 to their hands to play with ; feveral live children were alfo or- 
 namented with pafteboard wings ; thefe reprefented angels *. 
 
 Madrid is the Mantua Carpetanorum of the ancients, and is 
 fituated in 13*^ 49' 30" longitude from the ifle of Ferro, and 
 40*^ 26' latitude. In 1563, Philip II. removed his court from 
 
 * Voltaire fays Naples is, 
 
 • Un fjo ur fertile 
 
 Qui fait plus cas du fang de St. Janvier, 
 Que de la cendre de Virgile, 
 
 Toledo
 
 SPAIN. 175 
 
 Toledo hither, and fince that time it has been chofen by the 
 Spanifh monarchs for their refidence. It is very populous, be- 
 ing faid to contain three hundred thoufand inhabitants, and 
 about one hundred and forty churches : the number of coaches 
 is laid to be between four and five thoufand. This town, which 
 the natives call Villa, is environed by mountains covered with 
 foow during the greateft part of the year, and has no fortifica- 
 tions, ditches, nor even walls, though there are gates ; among 
 which the only remarkable one is that of Alcala. There are 
 thirty public fountains in it, though the water is not of equal 
 goodnefs, fo that here are many carriers, who fell the beft wa- 
 ter, which they put into earthen vafes, carried on the backs of 
 affes. Moll of the houfes are of brick, and the windows are 
 guarded by lattices, which are not fo pundlually kept ihut as 
 they were formerly, as jealoufy is no longer a diftinguilliing 
 charaifleriftic of a Spaniard. The Manyanares runs on the fide 
 of the town ; in fummer it is almoll dry, but in winter is much 
 fwollen by the melting of the fnows. Over this river are two 
 ftone bridges, one of which was built by Philip II. in 1584, has 
 nine arches, and is called the bridge of Segovia : it is fix hundred 
 and ninety-five feet long, and thirty-two broad. The other, Puente 
 de Toledo, which is the fineft, alfo confills of nine arches, and was 
 eredted by Philip V. in 1718, being three hundred and eighty- 
 five feet long, and thirty-fix broad. The prifon for perfons of 
 quality is one of the handfomeft buildings in Madrid : over the 
 portico are the arms of Spain in ftone balTo relievo, and on the 
 top are three ftatues, themiddlemoft of which reprefents juftice. 
 
 The
 
 176 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 The grandees, about ninety in number, are of three 
 clafies ; thofe of the firftclafs cover themfelves before they fpeak 
 to the king ; thofe of the fecond, when they have fpoken, and 
 before he has anfwered ; and thofe of the laft, when they have 
 received his anfwer : but none are to cover themfelves till the 
 king orders them to do fo. This dignity is either for life, or 
 perpetual ; in the la*! cafe it is hereditary, and when the male 
 line fails, defcends even to females, who give it to their huf- 
 bands. Not only the grandees have the privilege of wearing 
 their hats in the king's prefence, but alfo cardinals, nuncios, 
 archbifliops, ambaffadors from crowned heads, the grand prior 
 of Caftile of the order of Malta, the generals of the Dominican 
 and Francifcan orders, the knights of the Golden Fleece, of Ca- 
 latrava, Santiago, and Alcantara, when they are in their habits, 
 and when the king as grand-mafter affifts at their chapter : titled 
 noblemen of Portugal and France : and even the counfellors of 
 the royal council, and of that of Caftille, when they go in a 
 body to confer with his majefty about the bufinefs of their mi- 
 ni ftry, arc covered in his prefence. There are feveral noble fa- 
 milies, who, by their antiquity, have a right to the honour of 
 grandee; but, as the king has never ordered them to be covered, 
 they are ftylcd ccjfas agraviadiis, injured houfes. The king 
 •ftyles the grandees priino^ (coufin) when he writes them. When 
 they receive audience of the pope they are allowed to fit : they 
 alone may drive with four mules to their carriage within Ma- 
 drid, while the king is there : they cannot be arrefted for any 
 crime whatfocver, without an exprefs order from his majefty. 
 
 Among
 
 SPAIN. 177 
 
 Among them all titles are equal ; dukes, marquifles, or counts, 
 have no precedence the one before the other, {o that the father 
 may be a count, and the fon a duke, as in Portugal. The gran- 
 dees, both in converfation and in writing to each other, always 
 ufe //lee and thou, but to their inferiors they make ufe of the or- 
 dinary ftyle. 
 
 In the folio book, entitled, Creadon y privilegios de los titidos 
 de Cajiilla., printed in Madrid )769, I find forty-three privileges 
 annexed to the dignity of grandee, among which, befides thofe 
 above mentioned, are the following : They may never be put to 
 the torture ; they may have four footmen and four torches be- 
 hind their carriage, as may alfo dukes ; earls and marquifles 
 are allowed but two ; they are permitted to have a throne un- 
 der a canopy in one room in their houfes ; this privilege is how- 
 ever granted to various other dignities which are fpecified in the 
 book. 
 
 Befides the Spanifh military orders of Calatrava, San- 
 tiago, Alcantara, and ^'iontefa, which were inftituted in 
 the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, are the orders of the 
 Golden Fleece, and of Charles the Third, This laft was 
 inftituted on the 19th of September, 1771, in honour of 
 the birth of his majefty's grandfon, the infante, firft-born of 
 the prince of Afturias : the king has already created forty-fix 
 grand-crofs knights of this order. The fmaller crofs of which has 
 been given to a very great number of perfons : thefe do not 
 wear a riband ; the grand crofl~es wear a broad fky-blue riband 
 
 A a over
 
 ,7S TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 over the right fhoulder, and have a filver ftar of eight points, \tt 
 the fhape of a crofs of Malta, on the left breaft ; in the midft of 
 the ftar is an oval in enamel, reprefenting the Virgin Mary 
 ftanding on a crefcent, and underneath is infcribed, virtuti et 
 merito, and the king's cypher. The king of Naples, and the.- 
 infante-duke of Parma, are knights of this order ; the other: 
 forty-four are all Spaniards, and their number is not limited. 
 
 The order of the Golden Fleece was inftituted in 1429, by 
 Philip duke of Burgundy ; and the king of Spain is fovereign of 
 the order, by being the head of the houfe of Burgundy. The 
 number of knights is limited to fifty : four collars are at prefent 
 vacant. This order is honoured by having among its members 
 the king of France, the duke of Orleans, the king of Naples, 
 the Eledor of Bavaria, the infante-duke of Parma, the count de 
 Provence, the duke of Choifeul, &e. The collar of the order 
 is a gold chain reprefenting flints and fteels, to which is affixed a, 
 fleece, which the Spanifh book (Theatro univerfal de Efpana^ por- 
 Don Fran, de Garma, vol. ii. p. \oo.J fays, alludes to the fleece 
 offered in facrifice to God by Gideon, and not, as I had irreligioufly, 
 imagined, to Jafon's Golden Fleece. The flints and fteels , 
 were the arms of the inftitutor, with this device, anteferit quani: 
 fiamma micet. 
 
 Many Spanifh gentlemen are alfo knights of Malta. 
 
 Perez, Cervantes, Lope de Vega, Calderon, and Quevedo 
 were born here.
 
 SPAIN. ,79 
 
 It may not be improper to mention the gypfies, who are very 
 numerous throughout Spain, efpecially about and in Murcia, 
 Cordova, Cadiz, and Ronda. The race of thefe vagabonds is 
 found in every part of Europe : the French call them Bohemiens^ 
 the Italians Zingari, the Germans Ziegemiers^ the Dutch Heydenen^ 
 (pagans), the Portuguefe Siganos, and the Spaniards Gitanos, in 
 Latin Cingari. Their language, which is peculiar to themfelves, 
 is every where fo fimilar, that they undoubtedly are all derived 
 from the fame fource. They began to appear in Europe in the 
 fifteenth century, and are probably a mixture of Egyptians and 
 Ethiopians. The men are all thieves, and the women libertines : 
 they follow no certain trade, and have no fixed religion : they 
 do not enter into the order of fociety, wherein they are only to- 
 lerated. It is fuppofed that there are upwards of forty thoufand 
 of them in Spain ; great numbers of whom are inn-keepers in 
 the villages and fmall towns : they are every where fortune- 
 tellers. In Spain they are not allowed to poflefs any lands, nor 
 even to ferve as foldlers. They marry among themfelves : they 
 llroll in troops about the country, and bury their dead under a 
 tree. Their ignorance prevents their employing themfelves in 
 any thing but in providing for the immediate wants of nature, 
 beyond which even their rogulflinefs does not extend, and only 
 endeavouring to fave themfelves the trouble of labour ; they arc 
 contented if they can procure food by fhowing feats of dexterity, 
 and only pilfer to fupply themfelves with the trifles they want ; 
 fo that they never render themfelves liable to any feverer chaftife- 
 iment than whipping, for having ftolen chickens, linen, &c. 
 
 Aa 2 Moft
 
 i8o TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 Moft of the men have a fmattering of phyfic and furgery, and 
 are {killed in tricks performed by flight of hand. The forego- 
 ing account is partly extraded from le Voyageur Francois, vol. 
 xvi. but the afTertion that they are all fo abandoned as that au- 
 thor fays, is too general ; I have lodged many times in their 
 houfes, and never miffed the moft trifling thing, though I have 
 left my knives, forks, candlefticks, fpoons, and linen at their 
 mercy ; and I have more than once knovpn unfuccefsful attempts 
 made for a private interview with fome of their young females,, 
 who virtuoufly rejected both the courtfhip and the money. 
 
 I now began to prepare for my departure from Madrid : I 
 fent a cheft of books to Bilboa by the mule-carriers, to be for- 
 warded to England, it being previoufly examined and fealed at 
 the cuftom-houfe : I bought a faddle-horfe, and agreed with a 
 calejj'etro to take his two -wheeled chaife, drawn by a fmgle 
 horfe. I was to maintain him, and he was to accompany the- 
 chaife on foot. Accordingly we fet out on the 6th of April for 
 Toledo, which is twelve leagues diftant from Madrid. We firfl: 
 pafled through the long town of Getafe ; four leagues farther, 
 through lUefcas, and fpent the night in the village of Cabaiias, 
 which is three leagues diftant from the laft mentioned town. 
 The road was very good, though fandy, through a plain of" 
 corn-fields, intermixed with olive trees, among which a vail, 
 number of hoopoes were flying.. 
 
 The next day, after travelling three leagues, we arrived at. 
 the ancient city of Toledo, the firft and richeft archbiflioprick o£
 
 SPAIN. i8i 
 
 all Spain, the revenues of which amount to thirty thoufand 
 pounds per annum. It is fituated on the confluence of the rivers 
 Tagus aud Xarama, in forty-one degrees of latitude, and in the 
 center of Spain ; over the Tagus are two ftone bridges : that of 
 St. Martin has four arches, and that of Alcantara two ; this was- 
 built by the Moors, and repaired, in 1 259, by king Alfonfo the 
 Wife. The river at this time ran only under one arch of each 
 bridge. I put up at the inn called the Blood of Chrift, the fame 
 which Mr. Baretti was in : he appears to have been furprifed at 
 fuch a name being given to it ; but I was not, as in Paris I have 
 been at an inn, the fign of which was the Holy Ghoft, at the 
 cofFee-houfe of the Prophet Elijah, and in feveral others with: 
 fimilar names. 
 
 Toledo is fituated on a very fteep hill, which the Tagus near— 
 By-environs, and is encompaiTed with a wall, flanked with near- 
 one hundred and fifty fmall towers, built by the Moors. This- 
 river takes its fource among the mountains of Albaracin, fomewhat 
 above the city of Cuenfa, near forty leagues fouth-eaft; from 
 Toledo, and, after a courfe of about one hundred and twenty 
 leagues, difcharges itfelf into the Atlantic, a league beyond Lif- 
 bon. A Spanifh author, mentioning the decayed grandeur of 
 this city, fays that its chief fplendor at prefent is derived from 
 the river, and quotes the following lines from a verfc: 
 of Quevedo on Rome, only changing the Tiber for the.- 
 Tagus. 
 
 Soh
 
 a82 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 .'Solo el Tajo quedo, cuya corriente 
 
 Si Ciudiid la rego, ya fepultado 
 
 La mira con confufo fon doliente. 
 The fenfe of which is, the Tagus alone remains, and its cur- 
 rent, formerly ruled by the decayed city, runs through it, mak- 
 ing a confufed plaintive found. 
 
 Indeed all the ftreets are narrow, crooked, and badly paved, 
 and, excepting the cathedral and alcazar, there is hardly a good 
 building in the whole city : half the ftreets are choaked up with 
 heaps of ruined houfes of brick ; and the environs of the city are 
 naked and bare of trees, which caufe the heats in fummer to be 
 exceflive, and the wood for fuel in winter very dear : without 
 doubt there were more trees here when Martial wrote : 
 
 ^ftus ferenos aureo franges Tago, 
 Obfcurus umbris arborum. 
 
 The ancient aquedufts, which were here, are deftroyed, and 
 water is fold about the ftreets, carried in fmall barrels on the 
 iaacks of alTes. Moft of the floors in the houfes are of brick, 
 which fills the rooms with duft. In the fifteenth century this 
 city contained above two hundred thoufand inhabitants, but at 
 prefent it hardly contains twenty-five thoufand. 
 
 The cathedral was built in ^Sy, and. In 714, together with 
 the city, fell into the pofleflion of the Moors, in whofe hands it 
 remained three hundred and feventy-fix years, when king 
 
 Alphonfo
 
 SPAIN. 183 
 
 Alphonfo VI. re-conquered It. It is one of the largeft Gothic 
 buildings in Europe, and much in the fame ftyle of architedure 
 as the dome of Milan, that of Sienna, St. Petronius's church in 
 Bologna, and the cathedrals of Burgos and Seville. It is three 
 hundred and eighty-four feet in length, one hundred and ninety- 
 one in breadth, and one hundred and feven in height : the roof 
 is fuftained by eighty-five columns, which divide the church 
 into five ifles. It has a tower with a fpire. The pope and the 
 king of Spain are always canons of this cathedral. Every 
 Chriftmas before the firft vefpers, their names are called aloud: 
 at the door of the choir: if they do not appear, as always hap- 
 pens, they are mulded two thoufand maravedis each, about 
 fixteen ihillings and nine pence. Andrew Navagiero, who wa&: 
 a Venetian writer, and ambaflador from his republic to the em- 
 peror Charles V. fpeaking of Toledo, in his Itinerary of Spain^. 
 •which was publlfhed in Venice in 1563, fays, " The patrons of 
 *' this city, and of its principal women, are the priefts, who hav&. 
 *'very good houfes, and triumphantly lead the beft lives in the 
 *' worId,without being reprehended by any body;'* which they have' 
 probably continued to do to this day *, A modern Spanifh author 
 
 * Mr. Armftrong, in his Hiftory of Minorca, fays, in p. 201,- 
 *' The priefts live well, and drink wine freely,, taking care to be well 
 •' provided with the beft: of the growth of the ifland : they make no fcruple 
 ** to indulge themfelves in the converfation of the other fex j and have every 
 " opportunity they can wifh for, in an unfufpefled accefs to the houfes of 
 " all their neighbours." 
 
 In a book, entitled, " An Account of Spain by a French Gentleman," 
 ia oae. volume oflavo, . 1695, is the following paffage i 
 
 " And
 
 1% TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 fills two hundred and thirteen pages with a defcrlptlon of Tole- 
 do, in which every trifle is minutely defcribed with the tediouf- 
 nefs of a German, 
 
 The celling of the facrifly is painted in frefco, by Luca Gior- 
 dano. Here is alfo preferved a pidure, reprefenting the Aflump- 
 tion of the Virgin, by Carlo Maratti. The library contains, 
 among other books, feven hundred and fourteen manufcripts. 
 Father Caimo fays, he heard the famous queftion difcuffed, 
 utrum angelus peccaverit in primo injlanti^ in the Archiepifcopal 
 palace : the queftion is as important as that propofed by Father 
 Sanchez in his book de Matrimonio^ book ii. chap. xxi. beginning 
 *' Utrum Virgo Maria femen, &c." 
 
 The alcazar, or royal palace, was built by Charles V. in 
 1551: it is fituated on a fteep hill, near five hundred feet above 
 the Tagus, and commands a very fine profpedt over the city and 
 all round the country : it has eleven windows in front, and is 
 three ftories in height, with a flone baluftrade on the top, form- 
 ing a fquare of two hundred and fifty-fix feet, as I meafured it. 
 The Cortile is built with porticos, confifting of thirty-two arches, 
 of the Corinthian and Compofite orders, and was two ftories in 
 height : the grand ftair-cafe is of very fine architedure : after 
 a ftrait afcent on a flight of fteps fifty feet broad, they are divid- 
 
 " And though the two excellencies of pimping and intriguing chiefly pre- 
 *' vail among ihe Spanish laity, yet, to give the church its due, the clergy 
 " are very dexterous at any thing wherein a woman is concerned," 
 
 ed
 
 SPAIN. 1S5 
 
 ed to the right and to the left. In one corner of the building is 
 a geometrical flair -cafe. The whole edifice is of the Beroqucna 
 flone, of the fame kind of which the Efcorial is built. ''J'he 
 grand entrance is by an arclicd door, having two Ionic columns 
 on each fide. Under the frize is this infcription, in large capitals. 
 Car. V. Ro. imp. hif. rex. MDLI. Over each window is a 
 large head carved in flone : they are all different. The chapel 
 is of the Corinthian order, but almoll; ruined. The offices un- 
 der-ground are very convenient ; and the ftables, which are like- 
 wife under-ground, are capable of containing five thoufand horfes. 
 It was burnt in [710, fo that the roof and the galleries are de- 
 flroyed, as likewife mofl of the rooms, of which only two or 
 three are habitable, and In them the keeper and his family live. 
 In one of thefe rooms is the mofl remarkable echo I ever heard, 
 excepting that of the Simonetti palace near Milan: I amufed 
 myfelf two hours in this room with a mufical inftrumenl:. 
 Here was formerly a machine to fupply this palace with water, 
 but it has lain in ruins for this century pafl. 
 
 Againft the walls of the Francifcan convent, called San Jiiaa 
 de los Reyes, are faftened a great number of large iron chainr., 
 with which the Moors chained their Chriftian flaves. The 
 archbilhop pofTeffes a great number of houfes in this city : they 
 are diilinguifhed by a tile placed over the door, on which is paint- 
 ed, " Maria fiie conceblda fm pecado origiual\^'' that is, " Mary 
 *' was conceived without original fn :" a nice diflindion truly ! 
 
 B b The
 
 i86 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 The manufadory of fvvord-blades, w'hich were formerly fes 
 celebrated for the goodnefs of the fteel, no longer exifts; though 
 another manufactory was lately ere<fl:ed for the king's account 
 only, in which all the fword, hanger, and dagger blades for the 
 Spanifh army are made ; but they are far from being fo well 
 tempered as thofe of former times ; a true old Toledo fword- 
 blade fells even in Spain for fix or feven guineas, and can only 
 be purchafed by chance. I have feen daggers that were made 
 here, which will ftrike through a crown-piece. All fword- 
 blades made for the foldiers have the king's name engraven ori: 
 one fide, and fome device on the other: I faw many of them 
 with this ; No me faques Jin razon^ no me embaines Jin honor. 
 Draw me not without reafon, fheath me not without honour. 
 
 The fm all church of St. Mary the White, was formerly a 
 fynagogue ; and juft without one of the city gates, are the ruins of 
 a Roman Circus Maximus. I only mention thefe to fpare any 
 other perfon the trouble of fearching for them, as there is no-- 
 thing worth notice about them. 
 
 In order to fhew the more veneration for the relics and riches 
 which are preferved in the cathedral, I fhall follow the Spaniard's 
 advice, which was before mentioned, and fay nothing about 
 them; neither about the Mozarabic rite, which is only a me-- 
 thod of celebrating mafs fomewhat different from the comrnon 
 one, and both are equally abfurd. I was informed that the next 
 day there was to be a very grand proceflion of all the filver 
 
 ftatucs s
 
 S P A I "N. 187 
 
 ftatues and monks in the city ; but as thefe exhibitions were 
 never my hobby-horfe, fo I left Toledo early in the morning, 
 much to the regret of my calcfTciro, who thus miffed, or efcap- 
 ed the archbilhop's blefling : as to myfelf, I had already had 
 that of the late pope, and after fuch a bleffing I did not care to 
 receive that of any inferior ecclefiaftic 
 
 We this day travelled feven leagues on a good level road, 
 through corn-fields, and in the evening arrived at Aranjuez, 
 dining on the fide of the road, as there is no inn nor venta. In 
 proportion as we approached this royal feat, the number of 
 (lags, wild-boars, and rabbits; partridges, hoopoes, ftarlings, 
 •and fmall birds increafed : - 
 
 Here merrily they fed, 
 As if their hearts were lighter than their wings. 
 
 GoNDiB. p. 191-. 
 
 The wild boars, with their fows and their litter, are fo tame 
 'that they feed about the ftreets of the town : they are royal prc- 
 ■perty, and are referved for the king's table alone. We put up 
 at a very good inn, kept by an Italian, but the mofl: expenfive 
 one in Spain. 
 
 The town of Aranjuez is fituated on the Tagus, and was chiefly 
 i)uilt within thefe twelve years ; whoever chafes to build houfes here, 
 may have a free-gift of the ground from the king, on condition of 
 conforming to the general plan : the ftreets are broad and parallel, 
 
 B b 2 and
 
 i88 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 and interfe£l each other at right angles : one of them is called 
 Stuart's ftreet. The houfes are of two ftories in height, anct 
 are all painted white, with green doors and fliutters. There are 
 at prefent about five thoufand inhabitants, who live by letting 
 their houfes to perfons who come with the court, and who 
 refide here annually from the middle of April to the end of 
 July, during which time the number of inhabitants is increaf- 
 ed to fifteen thoufand. The whole town has much the rc- 
 femblance of Potfdam, near Berlin, and is well illuminated at 
 night. The principal church, which has a convex colonnade, 
 is built in the Great Square : Sabatini was the architeft This 
 fquare is furrounded by porticos; four large arched gates, 
 form the entrance, and in the middle is a handfome foun* 
 tain, which copioufly fupplles the town with water. There 
 are two other churches in Aranjuez. Befides the wild-, 
 boars before mentioned, I fiw feveral camels carrying wood 
 about the ftreets : they belong to the king, and are twenty-, 
 one in number *. The king polTefles alfo a great numiber of buf- 
 faloes, brought from Naples, which are ufed to draw carts, and 
 are governed by iron rings thruft through their noftrils. Thefe 
 animals abound in Rome, Naples, and Loretto, and are there 
 put to the fame fervice. Here is a new amphitheatre for the 
 bull-fights, like that of Madrid : it is built of brick, with, 
 wooden feats : the inner circle, or area, is one hundred and fix- 
 ty- eight feet in diameter : there are two rows of boxes, one 
 
 * In a village near Pifa, in Tufcany, I fav/, in 1769, fixty-fo«r camels . 
 which, were the property of the grand-duk?. 
 
 ahove..-
 
 SPAIN. 189 
 
 above the other, each row containing one hundred and two;, 
 under thefe are ten circular rows of benches, which are expofed 
 to the air: the whole building is capable of containing fix 
 thoufand fpedtators. All the amphitheatres in Spain are circu- 
 lar, and nearly of the fame fize and architedlure. I know of 
 only four, which are lafting edifices ; thofe are at Madrid, Aran- 
 juez, Granada, and Seville : at Cadiz and Port St. Mary, they 
 are temporary wooden buildings, as Is alfothat of Lifbon : and 
 in the other Spanifh towns the great fquare is the place of com- 
 bat. The bed; places are about a crown each, and the loweft 
 place fix pence : the perfons who (it in thefe, are perpetually ex- 
 pofed to the bull's leaping among them over the baluftrades, 
 which are but four feet high : the places which are on the 
 fhady-fide are fomewhat dearer than the others : it would be 
 very neceffary to have a canvas drawn over the top of the whole 
 area, in the fime manner as was pra<Slifed by the ancient. 
 Romans.. 
 
 Neither the king^ nor any of the royal family, are ev^er pre- 
 ffcnt at the bull-fights. 
 
 The royal palace is a fquare, and has twenty-one windows in 
 front, and a turret at each end ; but there is nothing remarkable 
 either in its exterior or interior parts, except that in the chapel 
 is a pidture reprefenting the Annunciation, by Titian; and in 
 one of the rooms fix portraits by Mengs ; being thofe of the 
 grand duke and duchefs.of Tufcany, and their four children; and 
 
 the.
 
 190 
 
 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 the king and queen of Naples, by one Bonito. In the church 
 are fix piftures by Tiepolo. Before the palace are three very 
 large walks, each planted with four rows of tall elms : fmall 
 canals run between each row, which keep the roots conftantly 
 fupplicd with water, and make the trees grow to a very great 
 fize : various other walks have been lately planted with young 
 elms on the fame plan. I walked round the gardens in an hour : 
 they are quite flat ; the Tagus runs through them. This river is 
 not very broad here, fo that there are eight or ten wooden 
 bridges, and one of ftone, built over it. In the work, entitled. 
 El PcirnaJJb Efpanol, vol. iii. p. 246 to 268, are two very 
 fine poetical defcriptions of Aran juez ; the one by Don Gomez 
 dc Tarpia, and the other by Lupercio de Argenfola. Thefe 
 gardens fo much beautify the Tagus, that Don Gomez jull- 
 Jy writes : 
 
 — — — Defde alll a fu fuente. 
 
 Ni hafla el oceano Lufitano 
 
 No fe halla en otra parte mas ufano *. 
 
 The gardens are ornamented with feven fountains, of all 
 ^hich there are very accurate views in the book called Les De- 
 lices de I'Ejpagne et du Portugal. That of the Tritops is deco- 
 rated with feveral marble flatues, which are thought to be the 
 
 * Neither ftom hence to its fource, nor to the Lufitanic ocean, is it 
 to be found more be.iutiful. 
 
 tvork
 
 SPAIN. ,91 
 
 work of Alonfo Berruguete, The fouatain of BaccLus confifts 
 principally in a flatue of that god beftriding a cafk : both the 
 god and the cafk are of bronze; the firff is reprefented extremely- 
 fat, and larger than the life. The largeft fountain is that of Her- 
 cules: the flatues that accompany it have no merit ; but the foun- 
 tain of Neptune, which has feven groups round it, in bronze, is 
 the bed here : the flatues being all by Algardi, the Roman fculp- 
 tor, in 1621 : they are nearly as large as the life, and repre- 
 fbnt Jupiter and Juno launching thunder-bolts at the giants ; 
 Ceres, in a car drawn by lions ; and Neptune, with his trident, in 
 a fhell drawn by Tritons. The other three fountains are thofe 
 of the Harpies, of the Dolphins, and of Don John of Auflria,. 
 but they are not any way remarkable. Here are alfo two flatues 
 in bronze, of Venus and Antinous, as large as the life, caft 
 from the antique. Thefe the gardener called Adam and Eve. 
 Under the flatue of Venus is this infcriptlon : 
 
 A Poblicius. d. L Antioc. t. Barbius. q. p. I. Tiber. 
 
 There is a new theatre for the performance of operas and 
 plays, during the refidence of the court here : over the door is 
 this infcription. 
 
 Run's deliciis adje&a urbana vohiptasi 
 
 I fpent a day in making fome excurfions on horfeback : I 
 iirft rode through the Queen's Alley, which is a road of forty 
 feet broad, and four miles long, quite ftrait, with a double row 
 of tall elms on each fide, at the end of which I entered into the 
 
 foreft,
 
 rr;2 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 forcft, which abounds with deer and game. Three miles far- 
 ther I faw a very prc'ty cafcade, formed by the waters of the 
 Tagus falling down a precipice of about fourteen feet high, I 
 then returned to Aranjuez, and, riding two miles on another 
 road, hw a fmall lake, in the mldft of which is an ifland, with 
 a fummer-houfe built on it. In the afternoon I rode fix miles 
 on the road leading to Tvladrid, which city is feven leagues 
 diftant from Aranjuez, through very broad avenues, with a 
 double row of elms on each fide *, to fee the ftone-bridge of 
 feventeen arches, which was finiflied in 1761, by Marcos de 
 Vierna. At both ends arc two lions of flone, each holding a 
 fhield, on which are engraven the names of the king and the 
 architect, with the date. Near this bridge is a turnpike where I 
 paid toll for my horfe. 
 
 April I r. I fet out this day for Valencia, which city is eight 
 days journey from Aranjuez, fixty-two leagues, or about two 
 hundred and eighty miles. I firfi: arrived at the fmall ancient 
 town of Ocana, two leagues off, travelling on the royal road, 
 which is very broad and ftrait, and in fome parts planted with 
 young trees on each fide. The country is quite flat, and pro- 
 duces corn, wine, and oil. I remained here an hour to examine 
 the celebrated fountain, which, at firft view, appears to be a 
 
 * The grand Berceau walk in the gardens belonging to the eail of 
 Breadalbanc, at Taymouih, in the Highlands of Scotland, is as beautiful 
 as thefe avenues, though not fo long : it is planted in like manner with elms 
 of an uncommon fize. 
 
 work
 
 SPAIN. 1^3 
 
 work of the Romans, but a Spanlfh author rather fufpedis it to 
 have been built by Philip II. about the year 1580, at the time 
 he founded Aranjuez : the fource of the fountain is difcovered 
 at the end of a long fubterraneous pafllige, which admits a man 
 Handing upright : the water, which is very tranfparent, is con- 
 dudled in two canals from thence to a large refervoir, which fup- 
 plies the whole town. I then proceeded two leagues farther to 
 the village of Villatobas ; which, as the road is perfectly hori- 
 zontal and ftrait, is feen at the end of it, immediately on leaving 
 Ocaiia. At every quarter of a league is a ftone to mark the dif* 
 tance. This day being Eafter-Sunday, I faw in feveral ftreets 
 of the villages and towns I pafled through, many artificial 
 figures of men made of wood, ftraw, &c. and dreffed in old 
 cloaths, hanging by a rope fixed acrofs the ftreet from the op-- 
 pofite houfes, in the fame manner as the lamps are fufpended in 
 Paris : this is an univerfal cuftom throughout Spain and Portu- 
 gal : the figures are intended to rcprefent Judas : the boys amufe 
 themfelves with pelting them with ftones, and burning them in 
 the evening, which is fimilar to our rational cuftom of annually 
 burning the figures of the devil and the pope. In the afternoon 
 I proceeded three leagues to Coral, where I pafled the night. The 
 people were at that time at work in making the new road, which 
 is perfedly ftrait, and as fine as any road in England. The 
 (quarter league ftones were continued as far as the road was 
 finiflied. The country is quite flat, and produces much corn, 
 •but no trees. 
 
 C c April
 
 194 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 April 12. After travelling three leagues, I flopped to dine at 
 Quintanar, in the province of la Mancha, where Don Quixote 
 is feigned to have been born. A league further, near to the 
 fouth-fide of the road, is the village of El Tobofo, which gave 
 birth to his Dulcinea. I afterwards paffed by fifteen windmills^ 
 which I miflook for thofe which had been attacked by the knight 
 two centuries ago; but, on having recourfe to his hiftory, I 
 learned that his antagonifts were built in the plains of Montiel, 
 which are ten or twelve leagues more to the fouth. 1 proceeded: 
 five leagues to Pcdronofa, where I paffed the night : the road is^ 
 good and flat ; feme few vine-yards and olives on each fide.. 
 The weather began to be hot and fultry, and, I was informed,, 
 that the night before three*' fmart fhocks of an earthquake had., 
 been felt in this village, and feveral leagues round it. 
 
 April 13. We dined at Provenfor, and flept at Minaya. 
 This day's journey was feven leagues, over a flat fandy road,, 
 and through a fmall wood of dwarf. pines. 
 
 April 14. We travelled three leagues to la Roda, and after- 
 wards three more to la Gineta, which is the firft village we 
 arrived at in the kingdom of Murcia : the road is in a fl;rait line 
 for two or three leagues J fo that immediately on going out of 
 one village, the church flieeple of the next is feen at the end of. 
 it. In this whole day's journey there was not a tree nor a hedge 
 to be feen, only continued corn-fields. The foil is fandy : and the. 
 heat became fo great, as to prevent my walking even after fun--
 
 SPAIN. 195 
 
 let, as the ground burnt the foles of my feet ; fo that the only- 
 agreeable time for that exercife was early in morning, when the 
 earth had had a night to cool in. 
 
 April 15. Three leagues journey brought us to Albacete : 
 this is a pretty large town, containing two churches, and five 
 thoufand inhabitants, who are chiefly maintained by the profits 
 arifing from the fale of clumfy knives and fciflbrs, for the manu- 
 fadturing of which there are eighteen Ihops. Two leagues far- 
 ther we crofTed over fome hills, wooded with pines and green 
 oaks, and abounding with juniper, rofemary, and thyme ; and 
 pafled the night in the fmall village of Villar, which contains on- 
 ly fixfy inhabitants. 
 
 April 16. We dined this day at Bonete, and lay at Almanfa, 
 having travelled feven leagues. The road is hilly and fandy ; a 
 few green oaks and flirubs are fcattcred here and there. 
 
 Alfrianfa contains one thoufand fix hundred inhabitants ; one 
 church, of which the front is of flone, and of tolerable archi- 
 tedure, and eight convents. 
 
 About half a mileeaft of the town, in the midft of a plain, i-s 
 a fquare obelifk of flone, thirty feet high : the pedeftal is fur- 
 rounded by three fteps ; on it are engraven infcriptions in Latin 
 and Spanifli, importing, that on that fpot, on the 25th day of 
 April, 1707, was gained the vidory over the rebel Catalonians, 
 
 C c 2 of
 
 196 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 of vfhom the number killed and taken prifoners was fixteen 
 thoufand. The conquering army, which con lifted of the troops 
 of Philip V. aided by thofe of Lewis XIV^. was commanded by 
 James duke of Berwick. Philip caufed fifty thoufand mafles to 
 be faid for the repofe of the ibuls of the illuftrious perfons who- 
 were flain in this battle. 
 
 On the top of a fleep rock, which is as much infulated as that oa 
 which the caftle of Dunbarton, in Scotland, is built, are the 
 ruins of a very large Moorifh caftle : the ftair-cafe is yet entire, 
 and of ftone. A view of this caftle is inferted in one of the- 
 plates in this work.. 
 
 This day we met feveral four-wheeled carriages, fome drawn. 
 by four, and fome by fix mules, with long traces of cords, go- 
 ing to Madrid. This method of travelling is near treble the 
 expence of that which I purfued, and not fo fatisfactory ; the 
 only difference is, that the mules which draw the coaches al- 
 ways trot, ib that they fet out later from, and arrive fodner at 
 the inns, but travel no more leagues a day than the chaiies, by 
 which means all the pleafure of walking is prevented, and the 
 time is confumed in idlenefs in the ventas. Thefe coaches have 
 two men to attend them, one of whom fits on the box and drives,. 
 and the other runs by the fide of the mules, whipping them ; and 
 this they do alternately. Women and children travel in this 
 manner, which would llkewife be the beft way for a company, 
 of four or five perfons having much baggage. A fingle travellet 
 
 ought
 
 SPAIN. 197 
 
 ought to be very careful in chufing a proper calefTeiro : fome of 
 thefe people have fpent the greateft part of their lives in traverfing 
 every part of Spain, and being known in all the inns and ventas, 
 are the greateft protedion a traveller can have againft being mur- 
 dered, for they would be immediately miffed, and the moft di- 
 ligent fearch would be made after them, and the perfons who 
 had employed them ; but if a young and obfcure muleteer 
 fhould be chofen, he, as well as his fare, might be affaflinated 
 with impunity *. 
 
 April 17. Proceeding two leagues we entered into the king- 
 dom of Valencia, on a road cut through a mountain, which 
 opens at once into one of the moft fertile countries in Europe, 
 the kingdom of Naples not excepted, abounding with olives, 
 corn, figs-, arbutus, and mulberry trees ; and vines, which were 
 already beginning to ihoot, and the wheat to ear : this province 
 alfo produces in palm or date trees, aloes, pomegranates, hemp, 
 flax, rice, and the algarroba, garofero, carrobe, or locuft tree :, 
 this laft is an evergreen ; the trunk is ufually from one to two 
 feet in diameter, the leaves are of a dark green, ten on a tv;ig, 
 five on each fide ; the fruit exadily refembles kidney-beans, and 
 is an inch, broad, and nine or ten inches long; they iffue in cluf— 
 ters from the branches and body of the tree in a very fingular man- 
 
 * The Portuguefe caleffeiro who travelled with me, was named Gaetano 
 de Coimbra ; and the Spaniard, Antonio de Gandia : each of thefe mern, 
 was upwards of three months in my fervice, during which time they were 
 very careful and honeft ; fo that they merit the mention that is now mads- 
 cf. them. 
 
 nerji
 
 198 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 ner ; thefe pods are thick, mealy, and of a fweetifli tafte : when 
 dry they are given to horfes and cattle as provender. Thefe 
 trees are only found in this province, and thofe of Murcia, Gra- 
 nada, and Andalusia *. The following lines of Silius Italicus 
 may with great propriety be applied to this country : 
 
 Nee Cereri terra indocilis, nee inhofpite Baccho, 
 Nullaque Palladia fefe magis arbore tollit. 
 
 We dined at the village of Moxent, which is five leagues from 
 Almanfa : the roads are fandy, and over hills. In the evening 
 we proceeded four leagues farther to Xativa, the ancient Ssetabis f. 
 
 * In the fecond volume of Mr. James's Hiftory of Gibraltar, the author, 
 defcribing the plains of Tetuan, fay?, " the next remarkable fort of wood 
 " is the alcarobe, a tree of great curiofity, and merits much notice : the al- 
 " carobe bears a cod in quantity and likenefs much refembling the Englifh 
 "bean ; the inner fubllance thereof is fweet, and lodgeth hard fmall kernel?. 
 " This fruit is eaten by the Moors of inferior condition, and by all at the 
 " feaft Afhorah ; but it is chiefiy preferved for their horfes, to whom it is 
 " both phyfic and repail ; for the fruit of the alcarobe ha-.h two excellent 
 *' properties, to drench and make their horfes fat. 
 
 " Some have called the fruit locufta, and fuppofed it was the Baptift's 
 " food in the wildernefs, &c. &c. There is a great probabij/'ty that the 
 •' fruit of the alcarobe is the fame with the Prodigal's ceratia, or hulks, for it 
 " doth excellently accord with their defcription." 
 
 Mr. Armftrong, in his Hiftory of Minorca, p. 195, likewife mentions the 
 opinion in regard to its having been the food of St. John, but he adds wild 
 honey to it. 
 
 Miller calls it ceratonia, carouge, and St. John's bread. 
 
 Ceratonia S;liqua, Linn. Sp. pi. 1513. 
 
 + Celfa mittebat Sxtabis arce, 
 Saetabis & telas Arabum fprevifle fuperba, &c. 
 
 SiL. Ital. lib. ili. V. 373. 
 
 This
 
 I N. 
 
 199 
 
 This town was razed by Philip V. in 1714, for having fuftain- 
 ed an obftinate fiege againft him, but was rebuilt at the bottom 
 of a hill, and by his order called San Phelipe. It has a ruined 
 Moorifh caflle. The detefted Borgia, who was afterwards pope 
 Alexander VI. was bora here. * 
 
 April 1 8. We travelled on a very good road, with fmall 
 canals of running water on each fide, like thofe in the plains of 
 Lombardy, which render thefe plantations fo uncommonly fer- 
 tile. I faw here many rice-fields, which are always kept about 
 three inches under water, above which the rice was jufl begin- 
 ning to appear ;. and mulberry trees were planted checqucr-wife 
 in thefe fields. We crofled a branch of the river Xucar, on a 
 narrow ftone bridge of fix arches. This delightful country is 
 furrounded partly by high mountains (on the tops of which are 
 many Moorifh caftles), and partly by the Mediterreanean fea.. 
 We afterwards pafled through the village of Alzira, and over an- 
 other branch of the Xucar, on a ftone bridge of two arches. The. 
 people were all employed in ftripping the mulberry-trees of their 
 leaves for food for the filk worms, which had been hatched a- 
 fbrtnight beforCv 
 
 There is a modern Spanifli book in ftnall quarto, with four^ 
 copper-plates, defcribing the method of rearing mulberry-trees, 
 and managing filk-worms, with the natural hiftory of thofe infeds : . 
 
 *- CatuUus mentions this town in his twenty. fifth epigram. 
 
 the
 
 zoo TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 the book is extremely well written. There is one paffage in it 
 which I know not whether the author meant in jeft or in earneft j 
 he fays, " many people wafii the filk-worm's eggs in the wa- 
 " ter of a fountain near the hermitage of our Lady de la Fuen 
 ^* Santa : if this wafhing caufes them to thrive better, it is cer- 
 " tainly becaufe that great queen attends to their fupplications ; 
 *• but as Ihe poffibly may not attend to thefe fupplications, the 
 *' eggs may receive great hurt by thefe cold wafhings. I hold it 
 '* to be better to wafh them with white wine, or with the urine 
 " of a healthy boy." 
 
 The lower clafs of men here wear linen-trowfers, which reach 
 to the knees, much like the Highland fillebegs, and fandals 
 made of cord. The women have no caps, but plait their hair 
 behind in a fpiral figure, and faften it with a large filver pin, in 
 the fame manner as thofe of Bologna and Naples. We dined at 
 Algemesi, and proceeded five leagues to Valencia, where we 
 arrived in the evening, having travelled nine leagues this day ; 
 -and put up at the Golden Crofs, which is a pretty good inn. 
 
 Valencia is one of the largeft cities in Spain, and has an uni- 
 verfity : its form is circular, and it is fituated half a league from 
 the fea, 39^ 34.' lat. and 22° long, from the ifle of Ferro, on a 
 river called El Rio Blanco, or Turia, which does not however 
 run through the city, but by the fide of it. There are five hand- 
 fome ftone bridges built over this river, three of which have 
 each ten arches, another has nine, and the laft has thirteen. 
 
 Without
 
 S P A r N. 201 
 
 ^vlthout the gates are the college of pope Pius V. and the palace 
 ■of the viceroy, though this title is now altered to that of cap«. 
 tain-general. The alameda, or mall, refembles our St. James's 
 Park, but is much more beautiful, by reafon of the trees, which 
 are palms, cyprcfs', elms, and mulberry trees intermixed, of 
 which there are four double rows, forming three walks or 
 alleys. There are many agreeable walks along the river fide, 
 which are faced with flone, the better to refill the force of the 
 water in winter. On one of the walls is a new ftohe ftatue of 
 St. Pedro Pafqual, but I could not learn who this faint was. In 
 this wall was lately fixed a ftone, with part of a Roman fepul- 
 chral infcription, as follows : 
 
 S O D A L I CIV, 
 VERNARUM 
 COLENTE SIDIDE. 
 
 A plan of this city, in four (heets, was publiflied in 1705. 
 
 The day after my arrival was the feail of St. Vincent Fer- 
 rer, the patron of this city, fo that I faw all the friars, and 
 ■other idle drones, who Jriiges conj'uviere n-ati, pal's in review, 
 or proceflion : 
 
 " Monks, fide by fide with monks, went two by two." 
 
 As I fat in a bookfeller's fhop here, I picked up a book in 
 fmall quarto, being a defcription of the city. Half of it is a rela- 
 tion of the " prodigious relics" contained in the " holy cathedral :" 
 
 D d they
 
 202 TRAVELS THROUGPr 
 
 they confifl: of fome of the Virgin's hair ; a fliirt which flie made 
 for her fon, which i& without feams ; two grains of the myrrli 
 offered by the holy kings ; a bit of the fkin of St. Bartholomew ; 
 eight thorns from the crown of Chrift, " partly whole and part- 
 ly broken ;" three of St. George's fingers, with a piece of his 
 banner ; thefe ought certainly to be preferred in England ; item, 
 relics of the eleven thoufand virgins j fome lignum cruets^ &c.. 
 All which I negleded to fee. * 
 
 The thorns are probably like fome of thofe feen by Sir John 
 Maundevile, in 1322, and of which he gives the following ac- 
 count : 
 
 " And o partle of the crowne of oure Lord, wherwith he was 
 " crowned, and many other relikes, ben in France in the kynges 
 " chapellc, and the crowne lythe in a veflelle of criftalle richely 
 " dyghte. For a kynge of Fraunce boughte thcife relikes fom- 
 " tvme of the Jewes, to whom the emperour had leyde them to • 
 " wedde, (p^<:dgej for a gret fumme of fylvre. And zif alle 
 ♦' be it fo that men feyn, that this croune is of thornes, zee 
 " fchulle undirftonde that it was of jonkes of the fee, that is to 
 ** fey, rufhes of the fee, that prykken as fcharpely as thornes. 
 
 * Mr, Ap Rhys, p, 151, fays, " There is aifo an eye-tooth of the giant 
 ** St. Chriftopher : there is a feDow to it at a town called Coria, in Caftilc : 
 " and a German perfon of quality told Philip III. that he had feen part of 
 " the fkull of the fame faint that held three pecks. The authenticity of 
 *' which precious relics being unqueftionable, they will be fo many flanding 
 " evidences againft cardinal Baronius, who was fo ra(h as to aflert that St. 
 *' Chriftopher was no giant."
 
 S P A I N. 203 
 
 *^ For I have fcen and beholden many tymes that of Parys, and 
 "that of Conftantynoble : for the! were bothe on made of 
 " ruHches of the fee. Put men han departed hem in two par- 
 " ties : of the whiche o part is at Parys, and the other part is 
 " at Conftantynoble; and I have on of tho precyoufe thornes^ 
 " that femeth Hcke a white thorn, and that was zoven to iTie 
 " forgrel fpecyaltce. For there are many of hem broken and 
 " fallen into the veiTellc that the crowne lythe in : for thei breken 
 " for dryenefle, when men raeven hem, to fchewen hem to 
 " grete lordes that comen thidre/' 
 
 This extra<ft may ferve as a fpecimen of the ftyle of this curi- 
 ous book, of which I have an edition in Italian, printed at 
 Milan in 1480, in Gothic charaders : thi-s edition is not men- 
 tioned in the preface to the Englifh one of 1725. It inay not 
 be amifs to obferve in this place, though foreign to the fuhjeft, 
 the great affinity which the Englifli language of that age bears 
 to the prefent Dutch language : many of the expreffions ufed 
 in this book are literally Dutch ; for inftance, " waren fuftren ; 
 *' hadden lever ; fchipmannes ; wanhope ; zee wyten wel," 
 &c. &c. 
 
 At the end of the above-mentioned Spanifh book, printed in 
 1738,. are chronological tables, of which the following arc 
 cxtrads. 
 
 D d 2 Anno
 
 204 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 Anno 
 
 1 1 50. Tnc image of the Holy Chrlft of Berlto is found driving- 
 on the river againft the ftream. 
 
 1 362. The great altar of St. John of the Market, burnt. 
 
 1372. The proceflions of the Corpus are reduced to a fingle one. 
 
 1 384. Two holy wafers are found in the mouths of two fifhes. 
 
 14(0. There are fuch fwarms of locufts that the city fends out 
 fquadrons to kill them. ■* 
 
 1 41 6. The image of our Lady of the Abandoned is made. 
 
 In the fame year, on the 18th of June, the judges wear 
 blue robes with gold fringes. 
 
 141?. Tranfit, or tranflation, of St. Vincent Ferrer. 
 
 1455. Canonization of ditto Saint, the city celebrates folemn 
 feftivals, ele^ls him for patron, and pope Urban VIII. 
 approves of it.. 
 
 1469. The great altar of the cathedral is burnt; fixteen thou- 
 fand two hundred and fixteen ounces of melted plate 
 are afterwards recovered. 
 
 1549. Don Lewis Caftelvl invents the method of preferving 
 fnow^, and cooling water. 
 
 1605. The city orders a filver vafe to be made, to hold the re- 
 lics of St. Vincent Ferrer. 
 
 1607. A boy iheds tears of blood at the foot of the gallows, 
 becaufe he had murdered his father. 
 
 1609. The expulfion of the Moors out of this city, to the num- 
 ber of one thoufand five hundred. 
 
 1647. The body of St. Lewis Bertram is carried in proceflioa 
 to flop the progrefs of the plague. 
 
 16.5 u
 
 S P A r N. 205 
 
 Anno. 
 
 1651. The river overflows the city, and in the convent of the 
 nuns of. the moft Holy Trinity, leaves a frog in a 
 holy-water vafe. 
 
 1731. This raofl illuftrious city eftablilh.es a houfe for the. 
 fabric of tallow candles. 
 
 1734. A capacious tennis-court is built. 
 
 1737. A fabric for tiles and earthen-ware eredled. 
 
 In this year, on Monday the i ith of November, the 
 profefTed houfe of the company of Jefus, celebrates 
 with feftive demonftrations the canonization of St., 
 Francis Regis, &c. 
 
 Thefe memorable events may make a pretty addition to a little 
 book of chronological tables lately publilhed.. 
 
 The city is walled, and has five gates. The peafants are 
 drefled in white linen waiftcoats and trowfers, with net hair-caps. 
 The houfes are all numbered, and the names of the ftreets are 
 painted on tiles on the corner houfes. A great number of 
 fingle-horfe chaifes ply in the ftreets : the horfes have no bits in 
 their mouths, but are governed by cavegofis., or nofe-bands, iu 
 the fame manner as they are at Naples. 
 
 The royal road intended to be carried on quite to Madrid", 
 which is three hundred and twenty-two miles, was lately begun, 
 and about ten miles of it are already finiftied, very broad, level, 
 and exadly in a ftrait line, fo that it furpafles the celebrated road 
 
 from,
 
 2o6 TRAVELS T H Tv O U G H 
 
 from Rivoli to Turin, which is nine miles in length. About a 
 league from Valencia, the fea forms a lake of near three leagues 
 long, and a league broad, called Albufcra, inhabited by vaft. 
 quantities of filli and water-fowl, among which are great num- 
 bers of flamingos. 
 
 Valencia is built on a fpot of ground perfedly flat : thehoufea 
 are very high, and the fl:reets narrow and crooked : it contains 
 fourteen parifh churches, twenty-two convents of friars, and 
 nineteen of nuns, with feven colleges. In the court of the Pa- 
 triarchal college is a fountain, in the midft of which is a fine 
 marble fliatue of a woman, the drapery efpecially is very beau- 
 tiful. St. Mary de los Defamparados (of the Abandoned), is a 
 new odangular chapel, with a cupola pretty well painted in 
 frefco. The ceiling of the church of St. John del Mercao (of the 
 Market) was painted in frefco by Palomino, in 1699. The 
 cKurch of Santa Caterina Nueva, is extremely elegant, the in- 
 fide being entirely of the fineft marble and gilt bronze. The 
 church of St. Francis is equally beautiful and riante, being 
 in the infide plain white ftucco with gilt ornaments, in a very 
 good tafte, and not overdone. There is nothing remarkable in 
 the cathedral : I afcended the fl:eeple, and from thence had a fine 
 profpetSt of the whole city, the adjacent country, and the fea. 
 
 The dogana, or cuftom-houfe, was built in 1760, and is a 
 neat fquare, of feven windows on each fide to every ftory. A 
 temporary wooden edifice is ereded for the bull-feafts. 
 
 The
 
 S P A I N. 207 
 
 The prefent filk-market was formerly a church. I made an 
 excurfion to el Grado, which is a fmall village on the fea-fide : 
 the fhore is quite flat, and there is no harbour, fo that only 
 fmall fifliing veflels can remain here in fafety. I afterwards fpent 
 a day at Morviedro (Muriveteres), the ancient Saguntum, four 
 leagues north from Valencia, which was fituated on the top of 
 a mountain, about a league from the fea, commanding an ex- 
 tenfive profpcdl. Hannibal befieged it, and during nine months 
 the inhabitants refifted all the forces of Carthage ; and, at lafl, 
 prefled by famine, preferred being buried in the ruins of their 
 city to being taken by the befiegers : this happened in the year 
 of Rome ^t,^, one hundred and eighty-two years before the 
 vulgar XV3.. The modern village is built at the foot of the moun- 
 tain. The extenfive walls of Saguntum, which are yet remain- 
 ing, and are embattled, fhow that that city was very large: it is 
 difficult to get over the heaps of ruins, and loofe pieces of 
 rock which are within thefe walls ; and the difficulty is augment- 
 ed by their being over-run with the Indian fig, or prickly pear, 
 which forms impenetrable barriers : 
 
 " In fhapelefs ruin all, 
 
 And Indian figs o'er-top the mould'ring wall." 
 
 After much clambering, my guide conduced me to the ruins of 
 the amphitheatre, which is a femicircle of two hundred and 
 fixty-fix Englifh feet in diameter : it is fituated on the flope of: 
 the mountain, and enough of it remains to diftinguifh the plan : 
 it is, biult with a kind of flint; each ftone is about nine inches 
 
 fquare ; .
 
 2o8 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 fquare ; the cement is of morter. There are twenty-two rows 
 of feats, and three rows of entrances f-vomilortaj, nine in the 
 uppermoft, eleven in the middlemoft, and fix in the under- 
 raoft. Near this Hes a ftone eight feet long, and two feet thick, 
 iculptured on both fides with ftars of fix points. Over a door- 
 way, which yet remains, is a white marble ftatue, without a 
 head, about two feet high, the drapery of which is very fine : 
 underneath is an infcription on a ftone which has been taken 
 out of the wall, and replaced with the letters upfide down : an 
 iron ring is feen in the door-cafe, which formerly received the 
 hinge. At fame dlftance, in a niche of the wall, is another 
 mutilated flatue of white marble, of the fame fize as the other. 
 Here are alfo two other infcriptions ; and in the wall, near a gate 
 of the modern town, are infer ted eight Hones with as many 
 more -'^ : a French hermit has refided on this mountain many 
 years : he was at that time in his eightieth year, but was flill 
 able to defcend every day into the town, to procure provifions : 
 he went by the name of Don Claudio, and told me that he was 
 prefent at the battle of Almanfa, in 1 707. After we had emptied 
 a bottle of wine together, I returned to Valentia. 
 
 During my ftay In this city, I had the honour of dining with 
 the captain-general, or viceroy, count de Sayve. That noble- 
 man is a Frenchman, and was then near ninety years of age. 
 
 * All thefe infcriptions have been communicated to the Society of Anti- 
 quaries in London. 
 
 In the Latin work, cntided, Eman, Martini Epijlolarum, is a plan of 
 this amphitheatre. 
 
 Sir
 
 S P A I N. -209 
 
 Sir William Duncan * and his lady, and Mr. Bofwell (brother to 
 the gentleman who has publifhed an account of Corfica), who 
 reiides here engaged in commerce, were of the party : his ex- 
 cellency regaled us with Englifh porter and ale. In the evening 
 we adjourned to Sir William's houfe, where we were entertain- 
 ed with a concert and a ball. 
 
 Valencia formerly had the privilege of coining copper 
 money : the laft pieces are dated 17 10. I procured one of three 
 dinerosy and one of fix : on one fide are the arms of Spain, and 
 K)n the reverfe the letter V under a royal crown. 
 
 There is a peculiar dialecSt ufed in this province, much re^ 
 fembling the Patois Limojin; I procured the only three pamphlets 
 which have been printed in it : one of them contains ninety 
 pages, and is intitled, " Rondalla de Rondalbs, a inkacib del 
 Cuento de Ciientos de ^uevedo^ y de la Hijioria de Hijhries de Don 
 Diego de Torres^ compojla y treta a Hum per un curios apajjionat 
 a la Lfrigua Llemojina, 1769 : that is, " Story of Stories, in 
 Imitation of the Talc of Talcs of Quevcdo, and of the Hiilory 
 of Hifloiies of Torres, compofcd and brought to the light by a 
 curious Lover of the Limofin language.'' I bought a book in 
 Naples, written on the fame plan, in the Neapolitan jargon, 
 entitled, " Lo Cunto dc li Cunte^' " Talc of Tales,' by John 
 Alexis Abattutis, 1728, five hundred and ten pages. The other 
 
 * This gentleman died at Naples in September 1774. 
 
 E e two
 
 2IO TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 two Valencian books are a defcription of the feftival of the Cor- 
 pus in meafurecl profc, of which thefe are fpecimens, 
 
 Parroguies, con-ae/jisy mercaf. Parishes, convents, market, 
 
 Alameda^ ermita^ n'u. Elm-walk, hermitage, river, 
 
 Lopalauy dit del Real, The palace, called Royal, 
 
 Los chichponts, abfes arcades. The five bridges, with their arches, 
 
 T altres prodlgsfemetjants. And other fimilar prodigies, 
 
 Adtnirantfe de tos ells^ Are all to be admired, 
 
 Pu'ix Valencia es un encant. For Valencia is an enchantment. 
 
 i. e. appears as an enchanted j 
 place by reafon of its beauty ; and indeed the Spaniards always . 
 call it Valencia la Hermofa, the Beautiful. 
 
 La verge qucn en la burr eta The Virgin who on the afs 
 
 Va^ en lo bon Jefus al brag Goes, with the good Jefus. in her: 
 
 arms 
 Sabran lafuyta es de Egypte You muft know, is the flight into . 
 
 Egyp^ 
 
 ^ue Marta y Jofep caji That Mary and chafte Jofeph , 
 
 Feren, guardant a Jon fill Made, guarding their fon 
 
 "De Herodes que era indtgnat. From Herod who was angry. 
 
 The following words will be fufficlent to (how the affinity%- 
 
 which this dialed: bears to the French lanqruasre. 
 
 mu
 
 N. 
 
 21 I 
 
 Di'u 
 
 God, 
 
 pajjlitemps 
 
 • paftimes. 
 
 argent 
 
 filver. 
 
 el diabk the devil, 
 
 diverjions 
 
 diverfions, 
 
 autumne 
 
 autumn. 
 
 Ihoms 
 
 the man, 
 
 gent 
 
 people. 
 
 clau 
 
 key, 
 
 •vida 
 
 life, 
 
 interes 
 
 intereft. 
 
 coll 
 
 neck. 
 
 mort 
 
 death. 
 
 decentment decently. 
 
 dent 
 
 tooth. 
 
 (imm 
 
 foul, 
 
 eel 
 
 heaven, 
 
 fam 
 
 hunger. 
 
 lamor 
 
 love, 
 
 terra 
 
 earth, 
 
 Jil 
 
 thread, 
 
 martyr 
 
 martyr, 
 
 Ih 
 
 he, 
 
 fum 
 
 fmoke. 
 
 confcjfor 
 
 confeffor, 
 
 fol 
 
 fun. 
 
 joe 
 
 joke. 
 
 redior 
 
 xtOior, 
 
 lluna 
 
 moon. 
 
 Hum 
 
 light, 
 
 lonck 
 
 the uncle, 
 
 nils 
 
 eyes, 
 
 nom 
 
 name, 
 
 "Judio 
 
 Jew, 
 
 genolh 
 
 knees. 
 
 pa 
 
 bread. 
 
 any 
 
 year. 
 
 pens 
 
 feet. 
 
 •ui 
 
 wine, 
 
 el mon 
 
 the world. 
 
 moll 
 
 mill, 
 
 pore 
 
 hog. 
 
 arbres 
 
 trees. 
 
 fan pare 
 
 his father. 
 
 fabh 
 
 fand. 
 
 paper 
 
 paper. 
 
 fa mare 
 
 his mother. 
 
 torrent 
 
 torrent,) 
 
 murmur 
 
 murmur. 
 
 fon mark 
 
 her hufband, 
 
 'vcrnis 
 
 varnifh. 
 
 paraules 
 
 words. 
 
 bon viatge 
 
 good journey. 
 
 vomit. 
 
 vomit. 
 
 OS 
 
 bone. 
 
 vullch dir 
 
 I will fay. 
 
 &c 
 
 The other book is intitled, " Praifes of the Hebrew, Greek, 
 " Latin, Caftilian, and Valencian languages," in forty-four 
 pages, written in 1574, and reprinted 1765. In this work the 
 author modefly gives the preference to the Valencian dialedl, 
 quotes fixty of its words, which are pure Latin, and twice that' 
 -number which vary but little from it. An oration of three 
 
 E e 2 pages
 
 212 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 pages In length is alfo inferted, which is Spanifli and Latin, al-- 
 moft literally at the fame time. 
 
 Moft of the Valencians, in fpeaking Spanifh, pronounce the • 
 c/ like our Engl i{h //', thus, la th'mdad de Valenthia, and have 
 a kind of lifp, which is not difagreeable, efpecially when it pro- 
 ceeds from the mouth of a pretty woman. 
 
 I was in hopes of feeing a play in this city, but, as it had not 
 rained for fome months, a flop was put to all public diverfions ; 
 fo that it is natural to fuppofe, that the Spaniards believe that pro- 
 hibiting plays is a fure method of obtaining rain ; indeed it is 
 infallible at the long run, for fuppofing diverfions were to be 
 fufpended for a year, there would moft probably fall fome 
 fhowers in that time, and they would immediately be attributed! 
 to the merits of their felf-denial, in abftaining from vain enter- 
 tainments *. . 
 
 On the 25th of April, I fet out from Valencia early in the. 
 morning, 
 
 "while dewy drops hung trembling on the tree;" 
 
 * In the Delkes de r Efpagiie, vol. iv. I find that the church of St. 
 Andrew's " principal ornament is the body of a faint of a frefh date, but 
 *' very powerful in works and in miracles ; his name wasFrancis Jerom Simon, . 
 " and he died in 1612: it is faid that during his life he concealed the pre- 
 *' cious talent he pofTefTed of working miracles, but that he revealed it on 
 " his death-bed. Five years after his death, his altar was feen hun» with as . 
 " many fliirts, and other prefents, made by thofe y.-hom he had cured, a&any, 
 " altar of the moft ancient and famous faints in. Spain,'"
 
 SPAIN. 2t3 
 
 and' after travelling five leagues, dined at Cullera, and then pro- 
 ceeded three long leagues to Gandia, on a heavy fandy heath, 
 producing pine-trees and aloes : this town is about a mile from 
 the fea, and from the ftiore the ifland of Yviga may be difcern- 
 ed in clear weather.. 
 
 April 26. We were this day near feven hours in going three 
 leagues, to a fmall village called la Puebla, on a very bad ftony 
 road. The chaife overfet, but we luckily efcaped any mifchief, and- 
 remained, as Mr. Pennant fays, after travelling on a fimi- 
 lar road, 
 
 a wond'rous token 
 
 Of Heav'n's kind care, with necks unbroken. 
 
 The beauty of the country compenfated for the badnefs of the 
 roads, which lie through forefts of palm, mulberry, garofero, 
 and olive trees ; fields of wheat and barley, bordered by pome- 
 granate hedges, of which the fcarlet bloflbms formed a pleafing 
 contraft to the variegated greens among which they grew. On 
 each fide of the road are fmall canals, like thofe in the environs 
 of Xativa. In the evening we travelled three leagues farther, to 
 the village of Onteniente. The weather began to grow excef- 
 fively hot, fo that it was only poflible to travel in the morning 
 and evening, the reft of the day being fpent within doors in eat- 
 ing, drinking, and fleeping. In thefe fouthern regions, at this- 
 feafon, the. fun. 
 
 Dartss
 
 2 14 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 Darts on the head dired his forceful ray, 
 
 And fiercely flieds intolerable day. 
 I'he fnakes began now to be feen balking in the fun on the 
 roads : wc fliot feveral of them. Lizards of different fizes, from 
 two inches to eighteen, fwarmed among the ftones and walls : 
 the fmviller fort are harmlefs, the larger arc very fierce and 
 dangerous. I have feen feveral, which being purfued by a little 
 dog I had with me, would turn about and ftand at bay, hiffing 
 violently : their mouth opens wide enough to admit a hen's eg§; 
 and their bite is fo tenacious, that I have lifted them from the 
 ground by putting a flick in their mouths : the tail eahly breaks 
 off from the body, and continues for a long time alive. Dr. 
 Goldfinith, in the feventh volume of his Hiftory of Animated 
 Nature, fays, " Salt feems to be mucTi more efficacious in de- 
 " ftroying thefe animals than the knife; for, upon being 
 " fprinkled with it, the whole body emits a vilcous liquor, and 
 " the lizard dies in three minutes in great agonies." I was at 
 that time ignorant of this particular, or I fl^ould have made the 
 experiment, which I have tried on fnails, and found it to have 
 the fame effccQ. it is here faid it will have on lizards, and which 
 is not improbable. I fliot many of them when they were run- 
 ning up the trunks of trees : they were very beautifully fpeckled 
 with green, blue, and yellow, and were as cold as ice to the 
 touch. The hot weather likewife hatched into life myriads 
 cf infecls, of which the raufquitos, or gnats, were the mcfl 
 troublefome. 
 
 — tlxc
 
 SPAIN. 215 
 
 the air 
 
 Was peopled with the infedt tribe that float 
 Upon the noontide beam — . Mason. 
 
 The walls were covered with them in the mornings ; to thofe 
 walls they had fixed themfelves, fatiated with our blood. An in- 
 finite variety of butterflies, formed the moll pleafingand beautifuL 
 clafs of thefe new-born infeds, which 
 
 Ope'd their gay downs, and fpread their gold-dropp'd- 
 
 wings 
 Turn'd every beauty to the funny ray. 
 And winnow'd with foft wing their eafy way. 
 
 Hartson. 
 
 The fl:eeples of the churches we faw this day, are of very 
 handfome architedure, and bear fome refemblance to that of the 
 New-church in the Strand, in London. 
 
 April 27. This day, after a very high wind, fome fhowers 
 of rain fell, which were the firft I had feen for upwards of two 
 months. It is hardly poffible to exprefs how beautiful an ap- 
 pearance the country made afterwards ; the trees were all reviv- 
 ed, and the duft being waflied off^ their leaves, gave them a ver- 
 dure of an uncommon luflre. This province is termed the 
 garden of Spain, and may very juftly be termed that of Europe. 
 We dined at a venta, in the hogfty, as the fmoke in the parlour, 
 which had no chimney, was infufFerable. We pafTed the night 
 la , the village of Villena, having travelled fix leagues over a 
 
 fiat
 
 2i6 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 flat country, producing pines, olives, and barley ; and environ- 
 ed with high mountains. No oats grow in Spain : horfes and 
 mules are fed with chopped ftraw and barley, becaufe oats 
 would be of too heating a nature in thefe climates. Abundance 
 of efcorz.onero grows in thefe parts. 
 
 April 28. We this day pafled by the town of Sax, which 
 poflefles a ruined Aloorifli caftle (a view of ^vhich is inferted 
 in one of the plates of this work), built on the fummit of a very 
 high and craggy rock, both together forming a very romantic 
 and remarkable view, to which Mr. Mafon's lines may be applied 
 with propriety : 
 
 Time's gradual touch 
 
 Has moulder'd into beauty many a tow'r, 
 Which when it frown'd with all its battlements 
 Was only terrible. 
 
 We dined at Monfortc, and at night arrived at Alicante, having 
 travelled near ten leagues: the road was tolerable, and partly 
 over mountains covered with olive-trees. The diftance from 
 Valencia to Alicante is about one hundred and fixty-four miles. 
 This city is celebrated for the goodnefs of its harbour, which is 
 ■quite open, but with fcciirc anchorage, and is ufually full of 
 fliips loading wines, fait, and glafs-wort. The city is built on 
 "the flope of a high mountain, on the top of which the caillc is 
 fituated. It contains twenty thoufand inhabitant?, among whom 
 -rire three or four EngUfh families; three parifli churches, fix 
 
 convents
 
 SPAIN. 217 
 
 convents of monks, and three of nuns : it has five gates ; fifty- 
 eight cannon are planted on three baftions. The garrifon con- 
 fifts of twelve hundred foldiers, and eight hundred militia-men. 
 There is a fmall inconfiderable theatre here. 
 
 Robert Wilkie, Efq. his majefty's conful, was fo oblig- 
 ing as to take me in his carriage to fee las hitertasy or the gar- 
 dens, two leagues north from the town. I obferved in the go- 
 vernor's garden, a filk-ttee and fome madder plants; and in 
 that of el Senor Barnabeu, a very large garofero, or carrobe 
 tree ; it produces annually one hundred and thirty arrobes of 
 fruit (each arrobe is twenty-fix pounds), which are fold for 
 feventy dollars, about eleven pound fourteen fhillings*. Almonds, 
 pomegranates, double-leaved imperial myrtle, oranges, and 
 lemons, are extremely plentiful in thefe gardens. 
 
 On our return home we pafled through feveral fields of barilla, 
 which is ufed in making glafs. In Miller's Gardener's Dic- 
 tionary is an account of this plant, of which here follows an 
 extrad : 
 
 •' Salfola, Salicornia, Glafs-wort, Soude. 
 " It is an annual plant which rifes about five or fix inches 
 " high, fending out many fide-branches from the bottom, which 
 " fpread on every fide : the feed ripens in autumn, foon after 
 
 * This tree may ferre as companion to the great orange-tree near Oporto. 
 
 F f *' which
 
 2i8 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 '* which the plant decays. The manner of making the fat al- 
 " kali is as follows : having dug a trench, they lay laths acrofs 
 " it, on which they place the herb in heaps, and having made 
 " a fire below, the liquor which runs out of the herb drops to 
 " the bottom, which at length, thickening becomes fal alkali, 
 " which is partly of a black and partly of an afh colour, very 
 " fharp and corrofive, and of a faltifh tafte. This, when 
 "■ thoroughly hardened, becomes like a flone, and is called^«</f, 
 " or barilla ; it is exported from Spaia into other countries for 
 " making of glafs/' 
 
 The leaves of this plant are long, narrow, flefhy, and full of 
 juice, like thofe of famphire. The ftone likewife enters into the 
 compofition of foap : it is ufually exported in maffes of feven or 
 eight hundred weight. The beil is that which grows in the 
 environs of Alicante. 
 
 The next day the conful's nephew was fo kind as to accom- 
 pany me on an excurfion to a neighbouring ifle : we fet out early 
 in the morning in a coach drawn by four mules, and after tra- 
 velling four leagues arrived at the village of Santa Pola, near 
 which I counted no lefs than fifty-three Dutch fhips that were 
 loading fait. We had brought provifions with us, and as 
 there was no inn, we dined in the houfe of one of the inhabi- 
 tants, with two very agreeable Spanifh women. After dinner 
 we embarked in a boat for the ifland of Nueva Tabarca, which, 
 is only a league off, and landed on it after an hour's failing. 
 
 This-
 
 SPAIN. 219 
 
 This ifland is about three miles in circumference, and is fo barren, 
 that there is not a tree to be found on it, nor a drop of water, 
 except what is brought from the continent. It contains about 
 four hundred inhabitants, who are all Spaniards, redeemed at 
 the king's expence from the flavery in which they were in Bar- 
 bary : there is a town built for them, and at that time the 
 church was nearly finilhed : the ftreets are very regular, the 
 houfes fmall, and with flat roofs. Thefe poor people live rent- 
 free, and^orthe firft year had each about nine pence a day 
 allowed them by government : over the gate is an infcription 
 in Latin and Spanifti, importing, that the Count de Aranda 
 caufed this colony to be planted in the reign of Charles IlL 
 1 77 1. The inhabitants fay that they are in a worfe fituation at 
 prefent, than they were when under captivity : they are never 
 fuffered to land on the continent, and are often diftrefled for 
 provifions and water, when tempeftuous weather prevents the 
 paffage of boats to the ifland. They have contrived a manu- 
 factory of ropes, the profits of which barely keep them from 
 ftarving. After a fliort ftay here, we returned to our boat, 
 landed in half an hour at Santa Pola, and then went back to 
 Alicante. 
 
 On the third of May I fet out for Murcia, and having gotie 
 four leagues, arrived at the large town of Elche, which is very 
 agreeably fituated in the midft of a foreft of palm trees. The 
 chief church, which was built in 1682, is of white ftone, with 
 an elegant cupola : the front is very handfomely carved : on 
 
 F f 2 ' each
 
 220 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 each fide of the principal entrance are three columns, one o£ 
 which is plain, the next fluted, and the third twifted fpirally : 
 over thefe is reprefented the Aflumption of the Virgin, environ- 
 ed by angels ; and on the great altar is a tabernacle ornamented, 
 with eight neat marble columns* 
 
 I intended to have paid a vifit here to the celebrated Don) 
 Jorge Juan, who, jointly with Don Antonio de Ulloa, publifh- 
 ed an account of America (in four volumes in fmall folio), which 
 is tranflated into Englifh ; but being informed that he was^ 
 confined to his bed through ficknefs, I did not chufe to trouble 
 him. He died a few weeks after. In the afternoon we pafled^ 
 through the town of Albaterra, where there is a very neat 
 church, with a cupola and two turrets ; and then travelling be- 
 tween mountains on a good road, pafled the night at Orihuela, 
 which is a fmall town, fituated on the river Segura, containing 
 feven or eight churches. This day's journey was nine long 
 leagues. 
 
 May 4. We this morning travelled four leagues, on a plain 
 of wheat fields and mulberry trees ; the road was very good, 
 and arriving at the city of Murcia, we put up at an inn kept by 
 gypfies : the firfl floor, which I occupied, was little better than 
 a hog-fly ; I agreed with a French traiteiir that he fhould 
 furnifh me with provifions ready drefled, as our landlord and 
 landlady could not fupply us with any thing. 
 
 The
 
 SPAIN. 221 
 
 Tlie horfe which I had bought at Madrid being quite worn 
 9Ut with fatigue, grew fo lame, that finding him utterly in- 
 capable of any future fervice, I made a prefent of him to a: 
 peafant before we arrived at Orihuela ; who, in return, lent my 
 fervant an afs to convey him to Murcia, himfelf accompanying, 
 us on foot, to bring his afs back. The horfe, which was literal- 
 ly a Rocinante, had coft me but five pounds, and had travelled 
 near feven hundred miles with me. The name Rocinante is com- 
 pofed of two words, rocin an ordinary horfe, and ante before. 
 
 The marquis de Clermont was arrived here with his lady : 
 they were on their way to Lill)on : his excellency was appoint- 
 ed ambaffador from the court of France to that of Portugal, and' 
 had taken the opportunity of travelling through Spain. I did- 
 myfelf the honour of waiting on them, and had the pleafure of 
 Gonverfing with the beautiful marchionefs. They fet out the* 
 next day for Madrid. 
 
 The firft objed: of my attention in Murcia, after having de- 
 livered my letters of introduQion, was the cathedral : it is built 
 of white ftone, and ornamented with much carving on the out- 
 fide, executed in 152 i ; part of which reprefents large chains 
 extremely well cut : they were then building a handfome fquare 
 ftone tower to this church. The city contains twenty thoufand 
 inhabitants: the flreets are very narrow ; but before the arch- 
 bifhop's palace is an ample piazza extending to the river Se- 
 gura, which divides the city into two pretty equal parts, com- 
 municating;
 
 222 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 municallng with each other by a very neat ftone bridge of tv:Q 
 arches. There is an agreeable walk along the river fide, be- 
 ginning from the large convent of St. Francis, and continued 
 about a mile. The buU-feafls are kept in the great fquare, tem- 
 porary feats being on thofe occafions eredted for the fpedators, 
 fome of whom hire places in the houfes ^Yhich environ thofc 
 feats. 
 
 The alameda, or public walk, is planted with four rows of 
 elms : at one end is a ftone ftatue of the Virgin Mary, and at 
 the other end thoie of the late king and queen of Spain, each 
 ftatue is placed on the top of a high ftone column. I do not re- 
 coiled to have feen in any other place fuch bad ftatues as thefe 
 are, in fo confpicuous a fituation. The public granary is a very 
 large brick building. All the principal cities in Spain have a like 
 edifice ; when corn is plentiful and cheap, the granaries are fill- 
 ed at the expence of government, and if there ftiould after- 
 wards be a dearth, that corn is fold to the poor at an under 
 price. 
 
 In every chief city in Spain is alfo a foundling hofpltal, into 
 which all children whatever are admitted : there is a fmall wicket 
 in the wall, near which is a bell ; a child may be brought here 
 at any time of the day or night, the bell is pulled, the wicket 
 opens, and a perfon receives the infant, enquiring if it has been 
 baptized. If the parents chufe afterwards to claim the child, 
 they may have it again on defcribing it : not only natliral chil- 
 dren
 
 SPAIN. 223 
 
 tfren^are thus maintained, but.many of the lo-wer clafs of tradef- 
 men who have larger famihes than they can bring up, place 
 their new-born infants in thefe hofpltals for a few years ; thus, 
 from the convenience of thefe excellent inftitutions, there can 
 poffibly be no temptation for a tender mother to deftroy her o£F- 
 fpring ; an unnatural crime that is too frequently committed in 
 countries which arrogate the claim of being more civilized. Italy 
 alfo contains many of the like hofpitals. 
 
 I faw the fmall theatre, which was at that tiine daily occupied 
 by a troop of rope-dancers and tumblers, but they were foon to 
 refign the ftage to a company of itinerant Italian fingers, who- 
 were jufl: arrived from Barcelona, and intended to perform a few 
 operas here. During my fhort ftay in Murcia, I fpent every 
 evening at the houfe of Doiia Terefa Piiia y Ruiz ; that lady and 
 her daughter were fo obliging as to affemble all their mufical 
 acquaintance, themfelves finging tonadillas and feguedillas in a 
 far fuperior manner than I had ever heard them fung before ; 
 the young lady had made a great progrefs in the fludy of mufic,. 
 and accompanied herfelf with the harpfichord and guitar, as per— 
 feftly as a profefled miftrefs of the fcience, fo that it was with, 
 the greateft regret that I parted from that amiable family, which 
 I did on the Sth of May, and after travelling nine leagues, I 
 arrived on the fame day at Carthagena. The firft league was. 
 among mulberry trees, and then pafling over a ridge of rocks, 
 the remainder, of the road is on a heath, with a few barley 
 
 fields^
 
 524 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 fields on each fide. We dined at a venta, and in Cartliagena 
 put up at a French inn, the fign of the Golden Eagle. 
 
 The nextday, Sunday, 9th of MayJwaitedonDaniel Bomeefter, 
 cTq. his majefty's conful here : he accompanied me to the gover- 
 nor's, general Don Carlos Reggio : his excellency is a Sicilian, 
 -and a grand-crofs knight of the order of Charles III. In the 
 evening 1 aflifted at a concert in the houfe of Don Juan ^'anuel 
 de Cargigal, who is colonel of the regiment del Principe, quar- 
 tered here : at this entertainment were prefent a great number of 
 ladies, and near a hundred and thirty officers. 
 
 Carthagena is one of the fineft ports in the Mediterranean, 
 and one of the three royal rnarine departments ; the other two 
 are Cadiz and Ferrol. The town much refembles Plymouth : 
 "there are two dry-docks, which were conftrufted by the late 
 Don Jorge Juan. The arfenal is walled round ; feveral {hips 
 were at that time on the flocks, and two thoufand flaves, being 
 Moorifli prifoners and criminals, were employed in the loweft 
 offices : I faw many of thefe wretches pumping water out of 
 the docks quite naked, except a cloth wrapped round their 
 waifts. In the harbour were three fmall gallies and four 
 xebecs, which are a larger kind of gallies, and are ufed in 
 cruizes made again ft the Moors. The land at the entrance of 
 the port is mountainous, and at that time a caftle was building 
 on a hill to command the arfenal. There are two public walks ; 
 
 that
 
 •SPAIN, 225 
 
 ihat of the Alameda is very long, and planted with double rows 
 of white elms ; that of Santa Lucia is near the harbour. The 
 town is chiefly inhabited by officers of the army and navy, who 
 are always obliged to wear their uniform, and none under the 
 degree of captains may carry a cane : their ranks are alfo diftin^ 
 guifhed by narrow gold or filver lace round the cuffs of their 
 coats; a captain having a fingle lace, a lieutenant-colonel two, 
 and a colonel three laces : a captain of a man of war alfo wears 
 three laces. The marine uniform is a blue coat with red cuffs, 
 red waiftcoat and breeches, with a broad gold lace on the coat 
 and waiftcoat. 
 
 May II. I dined at the governor's with thirty officers: they 
 informed me, that the navy of Spain confifted at that time of 
 about fixty-three men of war, which were, 
 
 One fliip of one hundred and fourteen guns, and twelve hun^ 
 dred men, called the Moft Holy Trinity. 
 
 Eight fhips of eighty-four guns, and about eight hundred 
 men each. 
 
 About fifty of feventy-four, and four of fixty guns. 
 
 Eight frigates of forty guns. 
 
 Twenty frigates of thirty guns, eight xebecs, and feven 
 gallies, each of four guns, and one hundred and ten men ; which 
 are in all about one hundred and fix vefTels. 
 
 I have a lift of the army, which was printed at Madrid, in 
 1773 : according to which, I find that there are : 
 
 G g Troops
 
 226 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 Troops of the Royal Houlhold. 
 Three companies of life guards. 
 A company of halberdier guards. 
 
 A regiment of Spanifh infantry guards, and one of Walloon* 
 infantrv: each regiment confiding of fix battalions. 
 And a brigade of four fquadrons of Royal Carabineers. 
 
 Forty-fix regiments of foot, of two battalions each, of which- 
 thirty-three are Spanifh regiments ; three are called thofe of Ire- 
 landi Hibernia & Ultoma, of which all the officers are Irifh Ro- 
 man-Catholics ; two Italian, four Walloon, and four Swifs- 
 regiments.^ 
 
 Befides thefe, there is a regiment of artillery of four batta- 
 lions, and a regiment of engineers. The Royal Academy of 
 Mathematics for the inftrudtion of the officers and cadets of the 
 artillery is in the caftle of Segovia ; and the academies for teach- 
 ing the engineers are in Barcelona, and in Oran on the coaft of 
 Algiers. 
 
 There are alfo forty-two regiments of provincial militia, each 
 of a fingle battalion ; forty-fix companies of invalids, and one 
 hundred and twenty-nine companies of city militia. 
 
 The cavalry confifts of fourteen regiments, of four fquadrons 
 each J and eight regiments of dragoons. 
 
 The
 
 SPAIN. 227 
 
 The Spaniards never ufe the method of recriiithig to complete 
 the complement of the men, but all thofe who are judged pro- 
 per for fervice draw lots, and thofe on whom the lot fails, 
 which are no more than five out of a hundred, areenlifted. 
 
 In the afternoon I faw the artillery exercifed, by fliooting at 
 a blank, three hundred and thirteen toifes diftant, from fix cannon 
 and three mortars. 
 
 About fix leagues eafl: of Carthagena, the land advances into 
 the fea by a point, which is called Cape Palos. 
 
 May 12. I fet out ^arly in the morning, dined at Puente 
 Alamo, and pail'ed the night at Totana, having travelled nine 
 leagues on a good level heathy road. The low kind of wheat 
 was already cut. 
 
 May 13. Proceeding four leagues we arrived at Lorca, which 
 is a pretty large town, containing feven or eight churches, I 
 waited on a colonel, to whom I had a letter : he accompanied 
 me to a houfe where I fav/ a very fine pidure, thought to be 
 by Titian, reprefenting St. Thomas feeling the wound in the 
 fide of Chrift : the figures are half length, and as large as the 
 life. The colonel ordered one of his foldiers, armed with a long 
 gun and a fabre, to accompany us to Granada (which he did on 
 foot, being near two hundred and thirty miles in five days), be- 
 caufe this road is over mountains which are fcarcely inhabited, 
 
 G g 2 and
 
 228 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 and where we frequently travelled thirty miles without feeing si 
 human being, or a houfe ; and fometimes troops of banditti, 
 from twelve to thirty in a company attack travellers, whom they 
 lirft m.urder and then *rob, leaving the dead bodies with the car- 
 riages on the road, and carrying off the plunder upon the mules.. 
 Thefe banditti inhabit caverns among the mountains, and are 
 armed each with a fliort blunderbufs, and half a dozen piftols 
 ftuck round their girdle; but as the whole province is alarmed 
 when they make their excurfions, we did not apprehend much 
 danger, as we fhould of courfe be forewarned of their being in 
 the neighbourhood : on thofe occafions travellers fometimes re- 
 main for a week, or more, in a town, waiting for the opportuni- 
 ty of being joined by other carriages and guards going the fame 
 way ; fo that there often arrives in Granada a fuite of fourteen 
 or fifteen chaifes, compofing a kind of caravan. With thefe 
 precautions, and that of never being on the road before fun-rife, 
 nor after fun-fet, we arrived afterwards fafe in Granada, having 
 preferred fuffering the trifling inconvenience of the heat to the 
 danger of lofing our lives. We feveral times law two or three 
 men armed with guns, lurking behind the mountains, then join 
 us, walk a league or two, and afterwards having reconnoitred 
 us, lag behind, and we faw no more of them : at fuch times I 
 rode before on hoffeback, the fervants walking on each fide of 
 the empty chaife, which was condutSted by the calefTeiro, and the 
 foldier followed behind with the fire-arms in readinefs. From 
 Granada I took another foldier, who went with us to Cordova, 
 after which I found it no longer necefiary to have a guard, as 
 
 W£;
 
 SPAIN. 229 
 
 we were then entered into a more populous country. I paid thefe 
 men a hard-dollar, or four fliillings and fix pence per day, be- 
 fides maintaining them. Thefe foldiers are likewife ferviceable 
 in procuring provifions and beds : they have paiTports from their 
 colonels, which, on their return from having accompanied tra- 
 vellers, authorife them to demand provifions and lodging gratis,, 
 till they arrive at the place they fet out from ; without thefe pafiT- 
 ports they would be arrefted as deferters : they fometimes abufe 
 their authority, by extorting provifions from poor wretches who 
 have none to fpare, and by a<£ts of violence. The firil: men- 
 tioned foldier when walking behind my chaife, met two peafants 
 who had a very fine large dog with them, the dog barked at him, 
 and, as he faid, attempted to bite him, upon which, he imme- 
 diately levelled his gun, and fhot the dog dead, the peafants 
 not daring to make the leafl expoftulation ; which inftance of 
 cruelty by no means raifed his charader with me ; however, he 
 was very faithful to us, efpecially as I allowed him as much to- 
 bacco as he chofe to fmoke. The day before we arrived at Granada 
 he fell ill, occafioned by the very great fatigue of walking fo far- 
 in fuch intenfe heats ; fo that I hired an afs for him to ride on. 
 
 In the afternoon we proceeded three leagues to the village of 
 Lumbreras : the roads are very good, and are environed with, 
 high mountains, on the iides of which are fome barley fields. 
 
 May 14. After travelling five leagues we entered into the' 
 kingdom of Granada, and refl;ed at. the- village of Velez El Ru- 
 
 hio t:
 
 230 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 bio : the road is carried in a ferpentinc form over barren moun- 
 tains ; and in this journey of feven hours, there is not a houfe, 
 nor even a tree to be feen ; all was ftill. We proceeded, after 
 having hecho la fiejiti^ that is, flcpt two hours after dinner, 
 as ufual, 
 
 Along thefe lonely regions, where retired 
 From little fcenes of art, great nature dwells 
 In awful folltude. 
 
 Where the green ferpent, from his dark abode. 
 
 Which ev'n imagination fears to tread, 
 
 At noon forth iffucs. Thompson. 
 
 Our calcflciro this day flioi a ferpent of upwards of four feet in 
 length. Having gone three leagues on a fandy road, lying be- 
 tween mountains, at the foot of which were fome corn-fields 
 and white elms, we got to Chiridel, where we palfed the night 
 on ftraw, in a venta kept by gypfies, " the doors and windows 
 ** of which were always open, by reafon of their, being none to 
 *' fliut," as Taylor, the water-poet fays, of a like hovel he was 
 in, when he travelled through Bohemia. Our landlady, however, 
 very obligingly danced a fandango with the foldier, to the found 
 of a tamkour de Bofque & Cajianctas. 
 
 May t 5. We went nine leagues, of which the firft feven are 
 over a barren hilly heath, on which I fhot feveral larks of the 
 
 large
 
 SPAIN. 231 
 
 large kind before mentioned *. We dined at CuUar, and in the 
 evening arrived at the fmall town of Baza, where there is no- 
 thing remarkable, as the author of les Delices de /' Efpagne fays, 
 " except the church of our Lady of Piety, which from time to 
 " time performs great miracles..'* 
 
 May 16. We continued our journey, and arrived at the town 
 of Guadix, having travelled feven leagues over barren moun- 
 tains, among which grow a few green oaks. Between Baza and 
 Guadix are only two houfes, one of which is the venta we din- 
 ed at, and which might be called the Haunt of Meditation, as 
 I imagine a more retired place can hardly be found in the deferts 
 of Arabia. The immediate environs are very beautiful, being 
 planted with elms and mulberry trees. To the left, at two 
 leagues diftance, we faw the Sierras Nevadas, behind which are 
 the Alpuxarras mountains : they extend to about feventeen 
 leagues in length, and eleven in breadth, and their fummits are 
 covered with fnow, probably coeval with the mountains ; they 
 are fo high, that from the top of fome which are acceflible, the 
 Straits of Gibraltar, the coaft of Barbary, and the cities of Tan- 
 gier and Ceuta may be difcovered. 
 
 May 17. We arrived this morning at a village called Purul- 
 lena ; its inhabitants have dug caves in the foft rock, which fervc 
 them for dwelling-places. We here hired an afs to carry one 
 
 * Jlnuda Calandra Linn. S}\/I. Nat. 283, In Edwards' Natural Hlilory, 
 jjlate 268, is a coloured figure of this bird.
 
 232 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 of the trunks up a mountain which we were to pafs over, as tlie 
 chaife was too much loaded to be dragged up fuch a long afcent, 
 which took us an liour and a half: we afterwards dined in a 
 venta, and then proceeded to Ifnalloz, where we arrived after 
 having travelled eight leagues, through a wild mountainous de- 
 fart, melancholy, barren, and totally uninhabited : the roads 
 were bad, and at times very dangerous, being along the edges 
 of precipices. On one fide the mountains rofe almoft perpendi- 
 cularly, and on the other the fall was equally fteep, and the 
 road barely broad enough for the chaife to pafs. In thefe places 
 I always chofe to walk. The defcents are very rapid, and large 
 ilones which had fallen from the rocks frequently blocked up 
 the paffage ; thefe ftones we were obliged to remove, and tumble 
 over the brink, which occafioned much delay, fo that it was 
 quite dark when we got to our night's lodging. 
 
 Oft did the cliffs reverberate the found. 
 
 Of parted fragments tumbling from on high; 
 
 And from the fummit of the craggy mound, 
 
 The perching eagle oft was heard to cry, 
 
 Or on refounding wings to fhoot athwart the (ky. 
 
 Beattie's Minftrcl, bookii. 
 
 The chaife had been once overturned, and much time and 
 trouble was employed in fetting it up again, as we had all the 
 t>aggage to unload and reload, I was in it when it overfet, but 
 received no hurt. 
 
 May
 
 SPAIN. 233 
 
 May 18. It rained all this day; and having travelled five 
 leagues, of which the laft two were over a fertile plain, produc- 
 ing corn, olives, flax, and hemp, and dined in a venta, we 
 entered into the city of Granada, which is fifty-two leagues 
 diftant from Carthagena. Thefe leagues were fo long, that on 
 computing the time we had been travelling, which was feven 
 days, or fcventy-eight hours journey, at only three miles 
 per hour, the diftance is at lead two hundred 'and thirty-four 
 Englifh miles, or thirty-three miles a day, performed by a fingle 
 horfe drawing a chaife with two perfons in it, and two large 
 trunks behind it; the calefleiro and foldier having walked all 
 the way, except now and then that I permitted them to ride on 
 my horfe. Few of ourEnglifh poftilions or horfes would be able 
 to undergo fuch fatigue, efpecially during that hot feafon. 
 We put up at the inn kept by gypfies *, and procured a French 
 traheur to fupply us daily with provifions, ready drefled. 
 
 May 19. After having delivered feveral letters of introduc- 
 tion, which I had brought from various places, one of the gen- 
 tlemen to whom I was addrefled, accompanied me about the 
 city. It is one of the largeft in Spain, and contains ninety thou- 
 fand inhabitants -f- ; its form is circular, and it is fituated in a 
 plain, three leagues from the foot of the Sierra Nevada moun- 
 
 * Thefe kind of inns are called Mefoms by the Spaniards. 
 
 -}■ A plan of this city is extant; it was published in two fheets, towards 
 fthe end of the laft century. 
 
 H h tains,
 
 234 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 tains, whofe fnowy tops agreeably diverfify the perpetual ver- 
 dure of the environs. The fmall rivers Darro and Xenilrun' 
 through the city. In the evening I attended feveral ladies to the 
 play : the theatre is very mean and dark, and the ading was. 
 yet worfe, confifting of low and ribald buffoonery ; however, I 
 was much entertained with the tonadillas and feguedillas which 
 were fung, and with a fandango which was danced between the 
 adls : the reprefentation began at four, and lafted four hours. 
 The ladies afterward took aa airing in their chariots drawn by 
 four and fix mules, flowly driving backwards and forwards along - 
 the mall, or alameda, which is very pleafantly planted with 
 trees on the fide of the river Xenil : the gentlemen walked on 
 foot, and from time to time got on the footftep of the carriages, 
 placing their arm over the coach door, corteja7ido las fenoras, 
 fcicijbeing the ladies), which ceremony " I could not in con- 
 " fcience" difpenfe with, as I had now acquired a. fufficient 
 knowledge of the language to be very fenfible of the charms of. 
 thefe ladies' converfation. At nine we all adjourned to a coffee- 
 houfe, and refrelhed ourfelves with ice-creams, as is cuflomary- 
 every evening in all the fouthern climates of Europe. 
 
 May 20. I fpent this day in viewing the chief edifices of the 
 city. I went firft to the cathedral, which is very large ; the in-- 
 fide is within thefe ten years entirely cncrufted Vv'ith the fineft; 
 marbles, highly poliflied, and enriched with ornaments of gilt 
 bronze ; but the whole is executed in fo wretched and defpicable 
 a manner, that it only infpires contempt for the ignorance of the - 
 
 archlteds.
 
 S P A I N. 235 
 
 :archite£ls, fculptors, and mafons who were employed in it, and 
 for the perfons who employed them. In the adjoining royal 
 chapel are interred king Ferdinand and his queen, Ifabel, who 
 conquered Granada from the Moors in 149?, with their daugh- 
 ter, and her hufband Philip I. father to Charles V. The 
 church of Sa?2 'Juan de Dios (St. John of God), has a handfome 
 ftone front : the cloiilers were painted in frefco in 1749, by 
 Diego Sanchez y Saravia, who was yet living. I then went to 
 the circular amphitheatre, which was ere£ted for the bull-feafts 
 in 1768-9 : it is built of brick, but the feats are of wood ; it has 
 two rows of boxes, fixty-eight in each row : the inner area is 
 one hundred and eighty-five feet in diameter: this edifice coft 
 three hundred thoufand reals, or about three thoufand four 
 hundred pounds; it is likewife made ufeof as a W(?;z/^(?, where the, 
 gentlemen of the Maejiranza exercife their horfes. In the even- 
 ing I rofe on horfeback with a Spanifh gentleman to the Sacro 
 Monte., or Holy Mountain, Juft without the city, where I was 
 Ihewn a few caves, called' mafmorras, wherein the Moors for- 
 merly confined the Chriftians, and where they murdered ten 
 holy bifhops, who without doubt are " now happy." A church 
 and convent is ere£ted on this fpot : the church pofleffes the re- 
 lics of the bifliops, and the friars poflefs a very capacious cellar 
 filled with hogfheads of excellent wine, which made me pay 
 more attention to the cafks than to the bifhop's bones. The 
 worthy owners of the cellar cordially invited us to tafte their li- 
 <juor, which was readily agreed to, and having drank quantum 
 fnfficit, we remounted our horfes, returned to town, and fpent the 
 
 H h 2 evening
 
 236 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 evening at the houfe of Don Jofeph Miguel de Cariaveral, whofe 
 civilities to me claim this public acknowledgement : his daughter 
 favoured us with finging feveral tonadillas, accompanied by ai 
 band of mufic which had purpofely been provided. 
 
 Granada is divided into four quarters, Granada, Alhambra,. 
 Aibaycin, and Antequeruela ; it has twelve gates, which are al- 
 ways open; it was formerly environed with a wall, on which, 
 were built one thoufand and thirty towers, not one of which 
 nowexifts. It is an archbifhoprick, an univerfity, and a royal 
 chancery: it contains twenty-four parifh churches, and twenty- 
 nine convents, (which have alfo each a church), eleven hofpitals, 
 and four colleges. The ancient Illiberis was Htuated near this 
 city : many infcriptions have been difcovered among its ruins,, 
 and were lately publiflied, engraven on about fixty copper- plates. 
 A copy of this work is depofited in the Britifh Mufeum. The 
 editor is one Padre Juan Flores : he fhewed me his colleftion of 
 medals; they are all Arabian, found in and about Granada :r 
 there are about fixty of gold, nine hundred of filver, and thirty 
 of copper: he pofleffes likewife various Moorifh feals of gold,. 
 filver, copper, and bronze; fome talifmans, or amulets, and a 
 great number of rings of the fame materials ; feveral copper 
 vafes with Arabian infcriptions; fome manufcript volumes on 
 paper and parchment, various infcriptions engraven on copper, 
 aJabafter, and cornelians, and a few weapons ufed by the Moors 
 who inhabited Granada three hundred years ago. I faw likewife ■ 
 at his houfe a very fine ftatue in bronze, a foot high, reprefent- 
 
 ingr.
 
 SPAIN. ziY 
 
 iag^an old man running; and feveral Roman and Grecian me- 
 dals. He told me he would willingly fell the whole coUedion at 
 once, but would not part with any fingle piece ; neither did he 
 chufe to mention the terms of purchafe. Mod of the filverfmiths 
 fhops contain Arabian medals, which are offered for fale. There 
 Is likewife a curious colledlion of Moorifh antiquities belonging 
 to the city, of which I faw a defcription in manufcript. 
 
 The ftreets of Granada are very narrow, crooked, and badly 
 paved ; hardly a houfe is to be found in the whole city, to 
 which the term ^i palace may be applied; and only three toler- 
 able pidures are here to be met with ; tvvfo of which, by Palo- 
 mino, are in one of the chapels of the Carthufian church, which 
 is fituated about a mile out of town : the altar there is of very 
 fine marble, and the profped: from the library is extremely beau- 
 tiful. The other pidture is by Murillo, reprefenting Chriil when 
 a child, and is in the nunnery del Angel. The marbles which 
 are dug out of the quarries in this province are the moll beauti- 
 ful in Spain : there is one ftreet in Granada confiding entirely 
 of fhops, wherein marble fnufF and tobacco boxes, (labs, 
 globes, flones for ear-rings, bracelets, necklaces, and other 
 toys are expofed to fale : I purchafed a couple of boxes, of 
 which the marble is femi^tranfparent, and refembles agate. I 
 had procured at Madrid fifty- two fpecimens of the different kinds 
 of marble found in Spain, cut into pieces of about two inches 
 fquare. The green marble is very plentiful here, and is much 
 like, the Italian "verde aniico. Moft of the houfes in Granada 
 
 have
 
 238 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 have the rooms ornamented with fome of thefe flabs, in gSt 
 frames, and hung up in the manner of looking-glafles. 
 
 I fpent this evening at the houfe of the marfchionefs of Cafa- 
 blanca, where we were entertained with a concert, and after- 
 wards with cards : part of the company played at whifk, part 
 at piquet, and the reft at various Spanifh games with a peculiar 
 kind of cards, much refembling thofe ufed in Switzerland, and 
 known by the name of cartes de taraiit. The backgammon 
 tables which 1 faw ufed in Portugal and Spain are more fimple 
 than thofe we ufe in England,, being without either points, or 
 middle-piece, but are played on after the Engliih manner. The 
 Spaniards have many other games, fuch as lotteries, birib'ts, 
 &c. the rules of which I am entirely ignorant of, as I always 
 preferred converfation to fuch tedious and infipid, as well as ex- 
 penfive amufements. I lately mentioned the gentlemen of the 
 matjlranza, and it nov/ remains to explain what that it is. There 
 are in Spain four confraternities, or brotherhoods, which are 
 caWed Real Maejlranzas, compofed only of noblemen and gen- 
 tlemen, whofe number is unlimited : they are all under the 
 protedlion of the king, and are inftituted at Seville, Granada, 
 Valencia, and Ronda : that of Granada was incorporated in 
 1686, and has taken for titular patronefs, " the moft holy 
 *' Mary, our lady, in the fovereign myftery of her immaculate 
 *' conception, under the invocation of our Lady of the Tri- 
 " umph." Mars, Hercules, or even Hughes, who rides on 
 two or three horfes at a time, would be more eligible patrons ; 
 hut the Spaniards do not think fo.
 
 SPAIN. 239 
 
 The intent of thefe focieties is to breed, break, and manage 
 horfes ; the members of them wear an uniform, which is diffe- 
 rent in each of the four cities : that of Granada is blue, and 
 that of Seville fcarlet, each with a broad filver lace, and a.' 
 red cockade in their hats. The form of the oath adminiftered 
 by the chaplain of the fociety to every candidate, previous to his 
 admittance is fmgular, and is aS' follows: "I N. N. fwear and 
 " make a vow to God our Lord, into your holy hands, that I. 
 " will inwardly believe, outwardly confefs, and always main- 
 ** tain that the mofl: holy Mary, our lady, was conceived in. 
 " grace in the firft inftant of her moft pure natural being ; and 
 " for the greater facrifice to fuch a fovereign lady, I offer, by 
 ** every poflible means to afhft, in order that the holy Roman 
 *• Catholic church may declare this facred myftery to be an article 
 " of faith : and I promife to fulfill the engagements made by 
 "this fociety, in order to facilitate this defirable event." * 
 
 In the next page of the book of ftatutes and ordinances, from 
 whence this is extracted, is, " and we agree, that when through 
 " the divine mercy, the fortunate day fhall arrive, in which the 
 " holy Roman Catholic church fhall declare this fovereign 
 *' myftery to be an article of faith, we will publifh it on horfeback 
 " with the moft plauGble ceremonies, &c. &c. f The arms of 
 
 * See k Voyageur Franfois, vol. xvi. p. 34., on the fame fubjeil. 
 
 t An oclavo book, printed in Barcelona, and intitled, " Graces of Grace, 
 " faked acutenefles of the faints ;" ends thus : " An infinite infinity of 
 " times, by an infinite infinity of perfons, in an infinite infinity of places, , 
 " be pfaifed and adored the moft holy facrament of the altar, and the 
 
 "■ conception..
 
 240 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 thefe Macjlranzas are, or, two horfes bridled and running to- 
 gether, with this motto, Fro republica ejl-, dum ludcre videmur. 
 
 The royal palace of the Alhambra, is one of the mofl: entire, 
 as well as the mofl: magnificent of any of the edifices which the 
 Moors ereded in Spain : it was built in 1280, by the fecond 
 Moorifh king of Granada ; and, in 1492, in the reign of their 
 eighteenth king, was taken by the Spaniards, commanded by 
 Ferdinand, as was mentioned before. It is fituated on a hill, 
 •which is afcended on a road bordered wath hedges of double or 
 imperial myrtles, and rows of elms. On this hill, within the 
 ■walls of the Alhambra, the emperor Charles V. began a new 
 palace in \ 568, but which was never finiflied : the fliell of it re- 
 mains : it is built of yellow ftonej the outfide forms a fquare of 
 one hundred and ninety feet : the infide is a grand circular court, 
 with a portico of the Tufcan, and a gallery of the Doric order, 
 each fupportcd by thirty-two columns, made of as many fmgle 
 pieces of marble. The diameter of the area, which is without a 
 roof, is ninety three feet: the covered portico is eighteen feet widcj 
 confequently the whole diameter of the rotunda is one hundred 
 and twenty-nine feet, which I meafured myfelf. The palace 
 has fifteen windows in front, and is two flories in height : be- 
 tween the windows are fourteen lions mouths and eagles beaks 
 
 " conception of Mary the moft holy, without fpot of fin in no one imagin- 
 " able inaant." 
 
 Finis coronat opus indeed ! The motto to this book is, " Servite Dominum 
 -" in Utitia" 
 
 alternately.
 
 S P A I N. 241 
 
 alternately, of bronze, and of very fine worknianflilp, each 
 holding a large bronze ring : twenty-five of thefe are on the 
 other fides of the edifice : on the frize is carved in large letters 
 in ftone, IMP. CJEo. CAROLO V. P.V. or p/us ultra : and 
 in feveral of the rooms the walls are covered with the fame de- 
 vice in ftucco, in French plus oiiltre. The grand entrance is 
 ornamented with columns of jafper, on the pedeftals of which 
 are reprefentations of battles in marble baflb relievo. In the 
 third volume of the Delices de /' Efpagnc, is a pretty accurate 
 view of the interior part of this palace. 
 
 The Alhambra is a mafs of many houfes and towers, walled 
 round, and built of large ftones of different dimenfions : the 
 annexed plate will give a more diftind idea of its appearance and 
 archite£lure, than the moft elaborate defcription. There is a key 
 in baffo relievo over the great gate, which is reprelented in a cor- 
 ner of the plate. Almoft all the rooms have ftucco walls and 
 ceilings, fome carved, fome painted, and fome gilt, and all over- 
 loaded with various Arabian fentences, fuch as, " There is 
 " no other God but God;" which is repeated thoufands of 
 times. All the floors are either marble or tiled ; one in particular 
 is paved with two flabs of white marble, each upwards of thirteen 
 feet long, and about half as broad. Some of the walls are eu- 
 crufled with a kind of coarfe mofaic, compofed of pieces of dif- 
 ferent coloured tiles, reprefenting ftars and foliages. The 
 firft coitile I entered, is an oblong fquare, with a fountain at each 
 angle ; and in the middle is a canal of running water, deep and 
 
 I i wide
 
 242 TRAVELS T H R O U G IT 
 
 ■wide enough to fwim in. Round this cortile are feveral batlis^, 
 the walls, floor, and ceiling of which are of white marble. las 
 thofe parts of the Alhambra, where bricks hare been employed in. 
 the building, the morter between the bricks is as thick as the 
 bricks themfelves. Almoft all the columns are of white marble, 
 and ufually eight times their diameter (which is of one foot,) in. 
 length. The capitals are much diverlified, as reprefented in the- 
 plate. La Torre de Comares is the largeft tower of the Alham- 
 bra. The fquare of the lions is paved with white marble, and 
 has a portico quite round it, fuftained by one hundred and 
 twenty-fix flender alabafter columns, which are placed by twos : 
 and threes : in the middle is a bafon, fupported on the backs of 
 twelve lions, which are reprefented as large as the life, with- 
 their heads in front, though very clumfily fculptured : out of. 
 this bafon rifes a pedeftal which fuftains a fmaller bafon, con-- 
 taining a tube, from whence iflues a jet d' eaii ; the lions like- 
 wife fpout water out of their mouths : the whole of this foun' 
 tain is of white marble. We next entered into the faloon of 
 Secrets^ which is a fmall odtangular room ; a whifper at one 
 corner is diftindly heard from the oppofite corner, but from no 
 other place. The bathing room is entirely of marble and colour- 
 ed tiles, and in the midft is a fountain, which formerly fuppli- 
 ed the baths with water : the niches in the wall contained the 
 beds of the Moorifh kings. Here are befides a great num- 
 ber of fountains diftributed in the various rooms, and which 
 ftill play. 
 
 Iq
 
 S P A I N. 243 
 
 In one of the rooms are two Roman ftatues of two nymphs, 
 ^f white marble, as large as the life, with cornucopias ; and 
 over a door is a very fine oval marble baflb relievo, reprefenting 
 Leda with the fwan, whofe neck is twifted round hers, and is 
 farther in a very indecent pofture ; on each fide is a fatyr fitting 
 under a tree ; this oval is three feet in its longed diameter, and 
 eighteen inches in its fhorteft. This baflb relievo, and the ftatues, 
 were placed here by Charles V. 
 
 We afterwards walked through the gardens, which abound 
 ■with orange and lemon trees, pomegranates, myrtles, &c. At 
 the end is another palace called Ginaraliph, fituated on a more 
 elevated ftation than the Alhambra : from the balconies is one of 
 the fineft proipedts in Europe, over the whole fertile plain of 
 Granada, bounded by the fnowy mountains. Clofe to the en- 
 trance of this palace are two exceeding large cyprefs trees, w^hich 
 are near five hundred years old, and are called the Cyprefles of 
 the Sultana-queen, as fhe was difcovered under them in familiar 
 converfation with the Moor Abericerrage. In one room the walls 
 are covered with the three following infcriptions, repeated hun- 
 ■dreds of times, in Arabic : " God alone conquers." " Glory 
 " be to God." " God is my hope." 
 
 In the gardens I faw two jars, or pitchers, of blue and white 
 earthen ware, each feven feet high, and five feet in diameter, 
 ■with various infcriptions. I brought a round tile away, taken 
 
 I i 2 out
 
 244 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 out of one of the rooms, the walls of which are entirely encruft- 
 ed with the like *. 
 
 A Spanifli book, In two quarto volumes, entitled, Pafeos de. 
 Granada, which is written in form of a dialogue, fays, that the 
 city of Granada was built one hundred and fifty-one years after 
 the deluge. The querift allcs if this account be certain ; and the> 
 • anfwer is ; " How, certain ! it is an account approved by 'tha 
 " church ; a Francifcan account, that the virgin mother, Mary 
 " de Jefus de Agredaf, affirmed to have been revealed to her by 
 " God, and it ought to be taken for granted." Such co- 
 gent arguments indeed admit of no reply. In another part of 
 this book, is the following curious dialogue between a Grana-. 
 dine and a ftranger, who are walking in a fquare, called del 
 Triunfo. " Gran. I imagine, fir, you do not know why thiS' 
 " is the moft chearful fpot in Granada; at all times, in all fea-. 
 " fons, in rain, fun-fliine, wind, or fnow, it is always plea- 
 " fant. Stranger. And for what other reafon can it be fo, ex-. 
 " cept by its being large and eminent? Gra-n. Oh! fir, if, 
 ** you were a Granadine, your nature itfelf would indicate to you 
 " the caufe of its fplendor ; the glad and tumultuous beatings of, 
 *' your heart would inform you. Do not you fee that column 
 *' that fuftains all heaven ? Do not you fee that this fpot is the. 
 
 * A reprefentation of it is inferted in the plate. 
 
 t This faint was born in i6o2. In the third volume of Dr, Geddes's 
 Tra£ls is an account of her life. 
 
 " auguft
 
 SPAIN. 245: 
 
 "auguft place of refidence of the ever brilliant fun of heaven' 
 " and earth ? Do not you fee, that there ftands Mary, the mofl' 
 " holy, our lady, reprefented in the adorable myftery of 
 " her immaculate conception ? Caufa nojlrce letitice,'''' &c. &c,. 
 &c. &c. &c. * 
 
 But to return to the Alhambra, I have only to add, that the*^ 
 before -mentioned Don Diego Sanchez, was at that time, by or- 
 der of the Madrid Royal Academy of the three fine arts, aihfted' 
 by feveral of its members, employed in taking exadl plans, eleva- 
 tions, views, &c. both general and particular, of this palace, 
 of which I faw fome that were already engraven; one of which 
 was a copy of a piece in frefco, faid to be painted by the Moors; 
 it reprefents three kings fitting ; very ftiff and bad, but the co- 
 louring is gay and brilliant, and intermixed with gold and filver. 
 They are intended to be publifhed in a folio volume, which will be 
 an unique in its kind, as there is in no other part of Europe fuch 
 a noble and well preferved fpecimen of the Moorifh architedlure, 
 nor any modern palace in a more happy fituation. By way of- 
 appendix to that work, the defcription and plates of Charles the 
 Fifth's palace are intended to be added, though it is very uncer- 
 tain when it will be publifhed. I wanted to purchafe copies of- 
 
 ■* Dr. Geddes, in his firil volume of Miscellaneous Tracts, firft pub- 
 lifhed in 1690, gives an account of part of a pocket-handkerchief found in 
 the mountains of Valparayfo in 1595, which the Granadines believe to have- 
 bfcn ufed by the Virgin Mary to wipe her eyes with ; the doctor's motto 
 tp. this account is, , 
 
 "■ Parturiunt monies, najchur ridiculus wui." U i^-i ^^0 t^"* 
 
 aHil
 
 246 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 all the finifhed drawings, but Don Diego had pofitive order* 
 from his majelly not to part with them, and it was with much 
 difficulty, that I perfuaded him to confent to my copying the ge- 
 neral view of the Alhambra. 
 
 I was difappointed in my intentions of waiting on his excel- 
 lency Don Ricardo Wall, an Iriih gentleman, who is one of 
 his Catholic majefty's privy-counfellors, and a lieutenant-gene- 
 ral, refiding here, as he had, a few days before my arrival, fet out 
 for Aranjuez to join the court. 
 
 On the 24th of IV^ay I fet out from Granada, taking a foldler 
 as a guard, and traverfmg the village of Santa- Fe, dined in a 
 venta, and paffed the night in the town of Loxa, whofe envi- 
 rons are very agreeable. This day's journey, of eight leagues, 
 vsras over a plain, producing corn, flax, hemp, beans, and 
 faffron : we law a great number of eagles ; thefe birds fly ex- 
 ceeding high, and float upon the air in a circular motion, hardly 
 ftirring their wings. 
 
 ^ay 25. We pafled over two high mountains, and dined at 
 a venta, no more than three leagues diftant from Loxa, but 
 ■which had notwithftanding required feven hours to perform them 
 in. We afterwards pafled over another mountain, having a dif- 
 tant profped: of the city of Antequera ; and, after four leagues 
 journey, entered into the kingdom of Andalusia, and put up for 
 the night at the village of Alamea, having traverfed a foreft of 
 
 green
 
 SPAIN. 247 
 
 green-oaks. Large lizards, of the kind before mentioned, were 
 very numerous, and the roads were covered with locufts, grafs- 
 hoppers, crickets, and the beetle, known by the name of 
 tumble-dung; this infed: is very common in America. In the 
 eighth volume of the Hiftory of Animated Nature, p. 137, is- 
 the following account of it, which is true in every refpe<3:. . 
 " That beetle which the Americans call tumble-dung, particu-- 
 " larly demands our attention; it is all over of a dufky black, 
 " rounder than thofe animals are generally found to be, and fo 
 " ftrong, though not much larger than the common black. 
 " beetle, that if one of them be put under a brafs candleflick, 
 " it will caufe it to move backwards and forwards, as if it were 
 " by an invifible hand, to the admiration of thofe who are not 
 '• accuftomed to the fight ; but this ftrength is given it for much 
 " more ufeful purpofes than thofe of exciting human curiofity, 
 " for there is no creature more laborious, either in feeking fub- 
 " fiftence, or in providing a proper retreat for its young : they 
 " are endowed with fagacity to difcover fubfiftence by their ex- 
 " cellent fmell, which direds- them to excrements juft fallen 
 " from man or beaft, on which they inftantly drop, and fall un- 
 " animoufly to work in forming round balls or pellets thereof,. 
 " in the middle of which they lay an egg. Thefe pellets they 
 " convey three feet deep into the earth, where they lie till the 
 *' proper feafon, when the eggs are hatched, and burfl: their 
 " nefts, and the infeds find their way out of the earth. They 
 " work with indefatigable induftry in rolling thefe globular pel- 
 "lets to the place where they are to be buried : this, they are to 
 
 " perform
 
 2+8 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 "perform with the tail foremoft, by raifing up their hinder part, 
 " and Ihoving along the ball with their hind-feet." The largeft 
 1 faw was about the fizc of a walnut. Thefe beetles quit their 
 labour if any others come to their affiftance, from whence is de- 
 rived the Spanifli proverb, " La ayuda del ejcaraho.jo, que dexa 
 " la carga quando k ayudan :" the affiftance of the beetle, which 
 leaves its work when it is aflifled *, 
 
 May 26. After travelling four leagues among olive-trees and 
 green oaks, we dined at the village of Herrera, and at ten at 
 night arrived at the city of Ecija, having pafled the river Xenil 
 over a Aone bridge of three arches. During thefe laft four leagues 
 I obferved nothing remarkable, except ten eagles flying circular- 
 ly, and near each other : and that a few fmall ftone croffes were 
 placed on the fides of the road, to mark the fpots where travellers 
 had been murdered, but the ancient dates on thefe erodes quieted 
 our apprehenfions of meeting w'ith the fame fate. 
 
 T una cruz el parage determina 
 
 De la tragica muerte repentina, 
 
 En alguna infcripcion muy mal grabada, 
 
 De las lluvias y el fol medio borrada. Obferv. Ruftico. 
 
 *' And a crofs fhows the place of the tragical fudden death, with 
 ^' a badly engraven infcription, half worn out by the fun and the 
 ■*' rains.'" 
 
 * Scarabeus Pilularis, Linn. Syft. Nat. 550. This is not the only fpecies 
 which employs itfelf in forming balls of dung. 
 
 May
 
 SPAIN. 249 
 
 May 27. I remained all this day at Ecija ; this city is fituated 
 on the river Xenil, over which is a ftone bridge of ten fmall 
 arches. Near it is the Alameda, which was planted three years 
 ago with young poplars : there are five ftone columns, three at 
 one end of this walk, and two at the other ; on the tops are 
 placed the ftatues in marble of the prefent king of Spain, the 
 prince and princefs of Afturias, Don Lewis, and my Lord St. 
 Paul (El Senor S.in Pablo J all moft execrably done. 
 
 Before the door of the ftye where I refided, is an enormous 
 gilt ftatue of Saint Chriftopher the Giant, probably by the fame 
 ingenious hand as the others. The theatre was lately built, and 
 is of wood ; it contains three rows of boxes, fifteen in each 
 rov/ : the boxes are ornamented with baluftrades, and the firft 
 row is fuftained by fifteen wooden pillars; underneath are 
 benches, elevated gradually above each other : the feats in the pit 
 are all appropriated to particular perfons, who lock them up af- 
 ter the performance, and referve the key. Here are fix parifli 
 churches, twelve convents of friars, eight nunneries, and fix 
 hofpitals. I waited on the marquis de Quintana, who accom- 
 panied me to fee a cock-fight : the cocks had been procured from 
 England ; the battle and the betting were alfo after the Englifh 
 cuftom. The marquis de Peiiaflor poflefles the moft confpicuous 
 "houfe in this city ; it is very large, and contains fountains in al- 
 moft every room of the ground-floor, rendering them very cool 
 and refrefliing in this climate, which is called the frying-pan of 
 Spain. The chief fquare is large, and is furrounded by porticos. 
 
 K k May
 
 250 T R A V E L S T H R O U G H 
 
 May 28. Travelling three leagues on a plain, among corn- 
 fields, olive-trees, and vines, the road bordered with hedges, 
 aloes, and myrtle, we dined at the village of Carlotta, which 
 was built at the king's expence, in the year 1769, and granted, 
 to German and Italian families, rent-free. All along this roado 
 are a number of fmall new-built houfcs, environed by cyprefs- 
 trees, likewife inhabited by Germans, who make part of the co- 
 lony, to the number of thirty thoufand, procured from the Pa- 
 latinate of the Rhine, for peopling the Sierra Morena, which 
 is a chain of mountains feparating Andalusia from New Caftile, . 
 at leaft eighty leagues long, but of unequal breadth, and called 
 Morena., from its brown colour. The inn in this village is kept 
 by an Italian, and is the bell I ever met with on the road in 
 Spain. Arifing from onr Jiejia, we proceeded over hills, on- 
 a ftony road, and paiTcd over a brick bridge of tive arches : 
 on a church fieepie I obferved young ftorks in their ncfts. We 
 afterwards defcended a mountain, and paffing the river Guadal- 
 quivir over a ftone bridge of fixteen arches, immediately en-- 
 tered into the city of Cordova : we paid toll for the paf- 
 fage over this bridge, on the fide of which is placed a bad . 
 llatue of the angel Raphael, holding a Ihield, with this in- 
 fer iption : '• To te jiiro por Jefii Xpo, que foi Raphael angel, 
 *' aquie Dios tiene puejio por guar da de ejia ciud.'''' " I fwear to 
 *' thee by Jefus Chrift, that I am Raphael the angel, whom God ' 
 ** has placed as a guard to this city:" and in a fquare, near 
 the end of the bridge, is a gilt ftatue of the fame guard, perched 
 on the top of a high marble column. 
 
 The
 
 S P A I N. 251 
 
 The weather was intenfcly hot this day, fo that I was glad to 
 remain within doors at the inn. The diftance from Granada to 
 Cordova is thirty-one leagues. I here difmifled my guard (not 
 Angel Raphael J, and never after had occafion for any other. 
 
 Cordova gave birth to the two Senecas, and to Lucan the poet. 
 
 Duofque Senecas, unicumqueLucanum 
 
 Facunda loquitur Corduba. Mart. 
 
 And during the time of the Moorifh empire, Avicenna and 
 Averroes were likewife born here. 
 
 The great fquare is large and regular, and is furrounded by 
 porticos. The bifhop's palace is fituated on the fide of the river, 
 and his gardens are open to the public. The cathedral was built 
 by Abderamo, king of the Moors, in the year 787, and ftill 
 retains the name of Mefquita ; it is an unique in its kind; it is 
 very large, the roof is flat and low, without any tower, though 
 the Spaniards have built one near it : there are four or five Ara- 
 bic infcriptions over the doors. The roof is fuftained by a very 
 great number of columns, placed in fuch an irregular manner, 
 that I fpent half a day in endeavouring to form fome kind of a 
 plan fo as to be able to count them, but without any fatisfaGory 
 fuccefs; however, I am certain, that their number furpafics five 
 hundred and ninety ; and in the cloifters, without the church, 
 are upwards of forty more : thcfe columns are each of a fingle 
 .piece, fome of marble, fome of jafper, of granite, of porphyry, 
 
 K k 2 of
 
 252 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 of alabafter, of verde antico, &c. their height from the bafe to^ 
 the capital is ten feet, and their diameter one and a half; the 
 capitals much refemble thofe of the columns in the Alhambra af 
 Granada, and had formerly been gilt, as the remains of the 
 gilding are flill to be feen on many of them * : in various places 
 the pavement has been fo much raifed as to cover the bafes, fo 
 that the columns appear to grow out of the foil, much in the 
 manner of thofe of the Doge's palace in Venice. Some of thofe 
 in this church are plain, others are fluted, with one third of the 
 fluting filled up, and others are fluted fpirally. Some defcrip* 
 tions reckon twenty-nine naves, others nineteen, but the whole 
 is fuch a fcene of confufion, as renders it very difficult to be de- 
 fcribed fo as to give any tolerable idea of this church. In an. 
 Italian eflcty on architedure, printed at Rome in 1768, is a fhort 
 defcription of it, at the end of which the author fays, " The 
 " Chriflians, in order to build a chapel in the middle of the 
 " church, have taken away a great number of thofe pillars^ 
 *'^ which has partly fpoiled the Angular beauty of that fo- 
 " reft of columns." This author fays it was a temple of 
 Janus before the time of the Moors ; which is very probable, by 
 reafon of fome of the columns having Corinthian capitals. The 
 fquare before this church is very beautiful, being planted with 
 eighty large orange-trees : in the midft is a pond, full of 
 tench, and on each fide is a fountain which continually plays ; , 
 thefe are environed with cyprefs and palm-trees, 
 
 * In the plate of the Alhambra, the laft column reprefents one of thofe 
 which are in this church. 
 
 Cordova .
 
 SPAIN. 253 
 
 Cordova is the greatefl: market for horfes in all Spain ; it is 
 Here that the fo juftly celebrated and beautiful Andalufian horfes 
 are to be feen, which it is death to export : they are all long- 
 tailed and entire, very few geldings being found in Spain. 
 Mares are only kept for breeding, and for treading out the. 
 corn: thefe are allowed to be exported. One would imagin&- 
 Adonis's horfe to have been an Andalufian one, from Shake«- 
 fpeare's defcription, 
 
 Round-hooft, fhort-jointed, fetlocks fhag and long-. 
 Broad breaft, full eyes, fmall head, and noftril wide. 
 High creft, fhort ears, ftrait legs, and paffing flrong, 
 Thin mane, thick tail, broad buttock, tender hide. 
 
 They are fed with wheat-ftraw, which is preferable to hay, by 
 reafon of its juicy delicacy : fometimes barley is given to them. 
 The mules and horfes I made ufe of in travelling, were never 
 during the journey fufFered to lie down in the flable, but were 
 tied with their heads clofe to the manger, fo that they could 
 fleep only Handing : the bells which are tied about their heads 
 and necks are never taken off ; they make an exceeding dif- 
 agreeable noife, but I never could prevail on any of the drivers 
 to quit them; they are, however, ufeful in apprifmg chaifes mu- 
 tually of each other's approach in narrow roads, where there is 
 not always room for two carriages to pafs. 
 
 This city is the mofi: agreeable of any in Spain for a place of 
 refidence : here are about thirty noble families, who alternately 
 
 fpend •
 
 ^ f 
 
 54 TRAVELSTHROUGH 
 
 fpend the evenings at each other's houfes. The night after my 
 arrival I was at El Conde de Gabia's tertuiia, where I had the 
 pleafiire of becoming at once acquainted with all thefe families:: 
 they live with great fplendor ; I never fiiw fuch magnificent 
 equipages in any other part of Spain : here are fourteen or 
 fifteen coaches, chariots, or phaetons, which were lately made 
 in London, and as many more which were procured from Paris. 
 I had an opportunity of feeing all thefe drawn by four and fix 
 beautiful long-tailed prancing ftone-horfes, as it was at that time 
 Whitfuntide fair ; the footmen were all in gold and filver laced 
 liveries. One of the four evenings I remained in Cordova was 
 fpent at the houfe of the Marchionefs de Villafeca : we were firft 
 entertained w^ith a concert, and afterwards with a ball ; the 
 Englifh country-dances confided of near thirty couple : the re- 
 frefhments were firft chocolate, and afterwards lemonade, ice- 
 creams, cakes, and various forts of wines and liqueurs. The 
 faloon we danced in is very large, hung with crimfon damafk, 
 and enriched with feveral of the St. Ildefonfo looking-glaiTes ; 
 the ceiling is of white ftucco, with gilt foliages : the whole of 
 thefe elegant decorations are executed in the French tafle. There 
 was much more freedom among the company than I ever ob- 
 ferved at any aflembly in England, and none of that obftinate 
 •fliynefs and r-eferve, which are fo difagreeably peculiar to the 
 Englilli nation in genera!. We parted between two and three in 
 .the morning, and the next evening the Conde de Gabia gave a 
 like entertainment at his houfe, to the fame company, which was 
 irepealcd on the evening following at another nobleman's houfe. 
 
 I obfervcd
 
 SPAIN. 255 
 
 Tobferved that a great part of the furniture of thefe houfes 
 was Engliih, fuch as mahogany chairs and tables, Wilton car- 
 pets, &c. I faw likewife thr-ee Englifh hunters, which are the 
 property of a nobleman here. 
 
 On the fecond of June I left this city, charmed with the po- 
 litenefs and fociablenefs of the gentry who inhabit it, and re-- 
 turned to Ecija, on the fame road I came. 
 
 I obferved feveral fields where cotton was growing : this plant 
 is fown in March and April, and had juft begun to ap- 
 pear above ground ; it grows to about a yard in height, its flowers- 
 are yellow, with fmall red fpots ; from the midft of thefe ifTue 
 balls like cheftnuts, and of the fize of a common nut; they 
 burft in a triangle in September, and fhow their feed wrapt up - 
 in the cotton. Fifty pounds weight of the feed produces no- 
 more than eight pounds of cotton. 
 
 I here difcharged my fervant Baptifte, giving him ten pounds 
 to defray his expences on his return to Lifbon, and the next day 
 r continued my journey towards Malaga. We dined at a venta, , 
 and paffed the night in the village of Cazeriche, neftling among 
 the ftraw, after having travelled fix leagues among olive-trees 
 and corn-fields, through a violent rain which lafted the whole, 
 day, accompanied with thunder and lightning. 
 
 June .
 
 255 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 Time 4. PafTing over a woody heath, we re-entered the 
 kingdom of Granada, and met two large wolves, which ran 
 away as foon as they faw the chaife ; thefe were the only wolves 
 we found in Spain, as thefe animals are feldom feen by day : 
 fliortly after the chaife overfet when I was in it, the axle-tree 
 w^s broken, which prevented our proceeding, fo that I left the 
 chaife on the road to the care of my fervant, the caleffeiro went 
 to an adjacent village to procure wherewith to repair the damage, 
 and I rode on horfeback alone to Antequera, which was two 
 leagues off. This city is fituated on an eminence, and poflefles 
 the ruins of a IMoorifh caftle : it contains four parifh churches, 
 eleven convents of monks, eight of nuns, and feveral hofpitals. 
 I have a concife Spanifli account of this city, which fays, that it 
 is dominated by Mercury and Mars, from whofe influences it 
 participates in love of letters and of arms ; how juftly I cannot 
 pretend to fay. Its diftridl produces wheat, barley, Tye, beans, 
 kidney-beans, vetches, garbanzos (which are a kind of peafe), 
 lentils, oil, and wine ; pears, apples, pomegranates, quinces, 
 melons, water-melons, nuts, plums, cherries, apricots, figs, 
 brebas (which are early figs, for they come twice a year in 
 Spain) ; the vegetables are, fallads, coleworts, pepper, of that 
 kind known in England by the name of red or Guinea pepper, 
 garlick, parfnips, purflain, berengenas (which are a kind of 
 pumpion), gourds, turnips, radiflies, endive, cucumbers, and 
 iomates ; thefe laft are a fort of apple of a fcarlet coJour, and of 
 a very tart flavour ; they grow likewife in the fouthern parts of 
 
 Italy
 
 SPAIN. 257 
 
 Italy and France, where they are called marignani and pommes 
 d'' amour * ; but no oranges or lemons are produced here, as the 
 climate is too cold in winter. 
 
 The inn is kept by a Frenchman, and is a pretty good one. 
 The chaife arrived the next day at noon : I fet out imme- 
 diately, and travelling five leagues over high, barren, and craggy 
 mountains, arrived at a venta, where I remained all night. 
 
 June 6. We dined at another venta "f", and in the evening 
 arrived at Malaga, having travelled feven leagues this day, and 
 crofled a fmall and fhallow river at leaft a dozen times : the road 
 is good, and is bordered with very large aloes, Indian figs, and 
 pomegranate hedges, intermixed with fhrubs, fuch as rofemary, 
 {age, gerafu'um, thyme, &c. In the morning we pafled near the 
 town of Arola, adjacent to which is a ruined Moorifh caftle on a 
 hill, and in the evening we went by an aquedudl, which had 
 formerly confifled of fifty-five low arches, but the laft eleven 
 are broken. I this day obferved a very great number of the beau- 
 tiful birds, which the Spaniards call ave/ucos ; they are found in 
 no other part of Europe, excepting in Granada and Andalufia, but 
 
 * Lycoperflcon. Solanum, Wolves-peach. 
 
 •}■ Over the door of this venta is infcribed, 
 Vamos entrando 
 Vamos bebiendo 
 Vamos pagando 
 Vamos faliendo. 
 
 L 1 are
 
 258 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 arc to be met with In the Eafl; Indies, where they are called bee- 
 eaters. In the fecond volume of Brookes's Natural Hiftory is 
 the following account of thefe birds : " The bee-eater is of the 
 •' fize of a black-bird, and has a black bill, thick at the bafe, 
 " bending downwards, and near two inches long ; the eyes are 
 " of a fine red, and there is a black ftreak on each fide of the 
 " head, which begins at the corner of the mouth, and runs be- 
 " yond the eyes : the bafe of the upper chap, and under the 
 *' chin, are covered with bright pale blue feathers ; the chin is 
 *' yellow, but the upper part of the back of the head is of a 
 " dufky yellow, as well as the back and wings, only thefe laft 
 " are fhaded pretty ftrongly with green, the tips of the quilU 
 *' feathers are brown, the brcafl: and belly green, and the under 
 " part near the vent of a pale yellow mixed with green ; the 
 " outer moft feathers of the tail are variegated with green and 
 " yellow, and the two middlemoft feathers arc half an inch 
 " longer than the reft, and terminate in fharpifli points of a 
 " brown colour ; the legs are black, and extremely fhort, the 
 *' feet have three claws forwards, and one backwards; the- 
 " tongue is flender, and rough towards the end, where it is 
 " jagged." 
 
 To this defer iption I add, that I engaged a peafant to get one 
 of thefe birds alive for me, as fhooting them would have fpoil- 
 ed the plumage, accordingly he brought me a cock, hen, neft, 
 and eggs ; I could not diftingulfh the cock from the hen, as their 
 colours, fliapes, and fizes were exaftly alike j that which I fup- 
 
 pofed
 
 SPAIN. 25^ 
 
 pofed to be the hen, was, at the time the neft was taken, fitting on 
 her eggs, which were fix in number ; her eyes were quite clof- 
 ed, fhe feemed in a ftupefied, and ahnoft lifelefs ftate, and I 
 was informed that fhe fits on her eggs without intermiffion till 
 they are hatched, being, during the time of incubation, fed by 
 the cock : the eggs are of the fize of thofe of a black-bird, and 
 are totally white: thefe birds build their nefls in holes in the 
 banks of rivers ; the holes are horizontal, and penetrate a yard 
 or more into the earth. They feed on bees, wafps, and the 
 like infedls : they fly in flocks of twelve or fourteen, and make 
 a whiftling kind of noife ; w^hen flying they balance themfelves 
 with their wings extended and almoft motionlefs ; at fuch times, 
 when the fun fliines, their plumage is very brilliant. An officer 
 at Gibraltar was afterwards fo kind as to prefent me with one of 
 thefe birds fl:uff"ed, which I yet preferve. The Mufeum belong- 
 ing to the Royal Society in London, likewife poflelTes one 
 of them*. 
 
 But to return to Malaga, I firft paid my refpeds to John 
 Marfh, efq. his majefty's conful, and then having delivered my 
 introdudtory letters, took a view of the city, which is fituated 
 at the foot of a high mountain, and was built by the Phenicians, 
 eight hundred years before the vulgar ara : it is well fortified. 
 The port is rendered fafe and commodious by a mole near half 
 
 * In the fccond volume of Albin's Hiftory of Birds, is a coloured print 
 of this bird. Merops Apiafter. Linn. Syft. Nat 182. 
 
 LI 2 a mile
 
 2tQ TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 a mile in length. The cathedral is a modern building, of white > 
 ftone, and one of the handfomeft and neateft in Spain. There 
 are twelve or fourteen Englifh merchants eftablifhed here with 
 their families ; they trade chiefly in wine and fait. The only 
 good pidlure in this city is in the pofleflion of Timothy Power, 
 efq. it reprefents the Virgin Mary and Child, St. John and St. 
 Anne, whole lengths, and the figures are fomewhat lefs than the 
 life. I efteem it to be one of Raphael's beft paintings. I had the 
 honour of dining at the houfe of the marquis del Bado : the 
 guefts were all ferved in plate, and feveral pages were in wait- 
 ing with fly-flaps, to prevent thofe troublefome infedts from fet- 
 tling on the difties. Mr. Power was fo obliging as to give me 
 an invitation to fpend a few days at his country-houfe ; accord- 
 ingly his beautiful lady, and another Jenora^ mounted their 
 burros^ or jack afles, attended by Mr. Power, the conful, two 
 other gentlemen, and myfelf, on horfeback, and rode four leagues 
 to the village of Alhaurin, on a road over mountains impaflable 
 for carriages, through a very fertile country, beautified with the/ 
 moft romantic profpeds, and with hedges of aloes, holly, and 
 briar. His houfe is furniflied in the Englifli tafte, and his gar- 
 den produces goofeberries, blackberries, currants, &c. from 
 plants procured from England; and thefe were the only plants 
 of the kind I met with in Spain. We remained here four days, 
 and were entertained with great hofpitality and politenefs, which 
 rendered thofe days fome of the moft agreeable I had paffed in 
 that kingdom. Before we returned to Malaga, we made a little; 
 cxcurfion to Cartama, which is about a league and a half diftant 
 
 frooi;
 
 SPAIN. 261 
 
 from Alhaurin : it is a fmall village, where, in the year 1750, a 
 temple was difcovered about thirty feet under ground, with the 
 remains of a ftair-cafe : a marble hand, which reprefents a left 
 hand, two feet and a half long, holding a kind of trumpet,, 
 eighteen inches long ; the veins on the back of the hand, and 
 the creafes of the knuckles, are accurately expreffed; the whole 
 weighs about fifty pounds : ten very large white marble flatues,. 
 though without heads or arms; eleven infcriptions on marble; 
 a few medals; and a column of a fingle piece of reddifli marble, 
 twenty-four feet in height, and fix in diameter. The hand was 
 fent to Madrid, where it is now in the king's palace : the rem- 
 nants of the ftatues were ftuck in the ground at the corners of 
 the ftreets, where they yet ferve as pofts to keep carriages from, 
 the houfes ; the column was eredled on a pedeftal before a church, 
 and a crofs placed on it; and, in 1756, the excavation was or- 
 dered to be difcontinued, and the entrance clofed. The temple 
 was a fquare of about forty yards, and contains two other co- 
 lumns fimilar to that above mentioned ; thefe were fufFered to- 
 remain where they lay. On a very high hill, near this village,, 
 are the ruins of a ISIoorifh caftle. I procured a plan of the 
 temple, and a copy of the eleven infcriptions : they are now in 
 the poffelTion of the Society of Antiquaries in London.. 
 
 On my return to Malaga^ I difcharged the chaife which had 
 brought me from Madrid, as I could have no farther ufe for it, 
 becaufe the roads from Malaga to Gibraltar, whither I intended' 
 to go, are impradicable for wheel carriages, fo that there are no- 
 
 Qthec
 
 262 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 other means of going to Gibraltar but by fea, or on horfeback. 
 I a^-rceJ with a Spanifli officer, who fubfifts by letting out 
 horfes, that he iliould furnifli me with two horfes, one for my 
 fervant, and one to carry the baggage, himfelf accompanying 
 me on horfeback, in his uniform, armed with piftols and a 
 fabre, and procure a man to lead the baggage-horfe on foot. We 
 were to travel to Gibraltar by way of Ronda, in four days, and 
 to reft one day between. I was to maintain him and his man. 
 
 Accordingly I fet out on the 19th of June, at four in the 
 morning, chufing to go by way of Ronda, becaufe I had a de- 
 f re to fee that city, though this road is confiderably longer and 
 worfe than that by Munda, on whofe plains Pompey was de- 
 feated by Csefar, of which battle a copious account is given in 
 the thirteenth volume of the Univerfal Hiftory, and copied in 
 Mr. James's Hiftory of Gibraltar. The diftance from Malaga to 
 Gibraltar, by the way I went, is twenty-three leagues, or about 
 ninety two miles. We dined at the venta where I had before 
 been, at four leagues from Malaga, and in five hours we tra- 
 A-elled two leagues farther, which brought us to Cafabonela, a 
 village fituated on the top of a mountain, and commanding a 
 fine profpeiTr of the fea. The inn here confifted of a fingle room, 
 which ferved us for a kitchen and bed-chamber, fo that our va- 
 lorous Don Fernando and his man, with myfelf, my fervant, the 
 hoft, hoftefs, three children, and fomc foot-travellers, all flept on 
 the ftraw together, with our cloaths on, which was very conve- 
 nient, for, in the morning, having fliaken off the ftraw, and put 
 GD our hats, we were ready drefTed.
 
 S P A I N. 263 
 
 June 20. At four this moraing we remounted, and after 
 riding, or rather walking our horfes during five hours and a half, 
 in which time we had advanced only two leagues, we arrived 
 fafe at the village of Burgo, having paffed over many fteep and 
 dangerous precipices, the road fometimes being carried over the 
 edges of mountains not a yard wide, where the leafl falfe ftep 
 would have hurled us to inevitable deftrudlion : in thefe places 
 I chofe to walk, driving my horfe before me, not daring to hold- 
 the bridle, left, if the horfe fell, he fhould pull me after him, 
 indeed the hearts appeared to be as fenfible of their danger as we 
 were, carefully fele£ling places between the loofe ftones to pro- 
 cure a firm. footing ; it was admirable to obferve how fure-foot- 
 cd the baggage-horfe was, though loaded on each fide with a 
 trunk of two hundred weight, and on the top of all a bafket with . 
 provifvoHS, and kitchen utenfils. Thefe deferts are only inha- 
 bited by vultures, eagles, wolves, and goats, which laft ani- 
 mals clamber up the fteepeft places, and leap and run on the 
 edges of rocks in an aftonifhing manner. At Burgo is a ruined 
 Moorifh caftle. 
 
 After our Jiejl a, we in feven hours proceeded three leagues 
 farther to Ronda, travelling on the fame kind of road : the 
 vallies between the mountains producing green oaks and alffie- 
 cinas, or lote-trees, intermixed with cork-trees. The green 
 oak refembles the common oak in its fize, wood, and acorns, 
 but the leaves are different, being fomewhat like thofe of holly : 
 they are firm and prickly ; the upper-fide of a deep green, the 
 
 under-
 
 264 T R A V E L S T H R O U G H 
 
 undcr-fide whitifli, rather downy, and do not fall ofF in winter; 
 the wood is very hard, and is ufed for making pivots, or axles to 
 puUies : the acorns are almoft as fweet as cheftnuts. 
 
 The cork-tree much refembles the green oak, and likewife 
 produces acorns : its bark is thick, light, fpungy, of a grey 
 colour, fplits of itfelf, and parts from the tree, if care be not 
 taken to gather it, which is done by fplitting the trunk in its 
 •whole length, in order to get the bark off the more eafily ; it is 
 then fteeped in water to foften it, dried at a fire, and loaded 
 with large ftenes to flatten it : this is the cork that is fent all 
 over the world, and which is ufed for making of bottle-corks, 
 buoys for fifliing-nets, &c. 
 
 In thefe parts, as well as in many others in Spain, are found 
 the trees which produce the kermes ; thefe trees are called in 
 Spanifh cat-rafca, or cofcoja, the berry-bearing Hex. In the 
 eighth volume of the Hiftory of Animated Nature, is the follow- 
 ing account of the kermes : " it is produced in the excrefcence 
 *' of the ilex., and appears at firfl wrapt up in a membranaceous 
 *' bladder of the fizeof a pea, fmoothand fhining, ofabrownifh 
 " red colour, and covered with a very fine afh-coloured powder : 
 *' this bag teems with a number of reddifh eggs, or infedts, 
 " which being rubbed with the fingers pour out a crimibn li- 
 *' quor : it is only met with in warm countries in the months 
 *' of May and June. In the month of April this infedl becomes 
 *•* of the fize and fhape of a pea, and its eggs fome time after 
 
 ♦' burft
 
 SPAIN. 1165 
 
 *' burft from the womb, and foon turning worms, run about 
 *' the branches and leaves of the tree : thefe are the fe- 
 " males, but the males are very diflind from them, and 
 " are a fet of fmall flies like gnats, with fix feet, of which 
 *' the four forward are fhort, and the two backward long, 
 " divided into four joints, and armed with three crooked nails ; 
 " there are two feelers on the head, a line and a half long, which 
 *' are moveable, ftreaked, and articulated : the tail at the back 
 *' part of the body is half a line long, and forked ; the whole 
 *' body is covered with two tranfparent wings, and they leap 
 " about in the manner of fleas." They are gathered before 
 fun-rife, by women who purpofely let their nails grow long to 
 pick them off the leaves. Languedoc and Provence likewife 
 produce thefe trees and infeds. They are ufed in dying and in 
 medicine *. 
 
 June 21ft. I remained all this day at Ronda -f- : this city is 
 built on the edge of a mountain, which on one fide is as fteep 
 as a wall, and faid to be upwards of nine hundred feet in height, 
 and without any parapet or rail : I did not venture to look 
 ■down, but defcended the mountain on the other fide to obferve 
 this Angular precipice from below. The eagles 
 
 " that wing the midway air. 
 
 Shew fcarce fo grofs as beetles." 
 
 * Coccus Ilicis, Linn. Syft. Nat. 740. 
 
 t A viev/ of this town is inferted in one of the plates in this work, 
 
 M The
 
 266 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 The body of a woman who fell from it, burft by the concuflToni 
 of the air before it reached the ground, fo that her bowels came 
 out. The city is fmall, but has the honour of being the feat of 
 a Maejlranzd^ as was before mentioned. All the inns here are 
 kept by gypfies. A new bridge, which joins the old to the new 
 town, which is called el Mercadillo, was at that time nearly 
 finifhed : it is built over a chafni formed by the mountain, and 
 is to confift of three arches one above the other : befidcs this, 
 there is another bridge of a fingle arch over a different part of 
 this tremendous gap, at the bottom of which runs a fmall river. 
 In the afternoon I rode on horfeback about a league off, with a 
 Spanifh gentleman to fee his gardens, v/hich were only remark* 
 able for the goodnefs of the fruit they produced, efpeclally of the 
 cherries, which were fome of the fineft I ever tailed. 
 
 June 22. We fet out foon after three this morning, in the. 
 dark, and after fitting near eleven hours on horfeback, we ar- 
 rived at Alguzin, without having in the fpace of five leagues 
 feen a fingle houfe. After fun-rife the weather was fo hot, that 
 It was with the utmoft difficulty I could keep myfelf awake on 
 my horfe : 1 rode with an umbrella, and placed a fheet of white 
 paper between my hat and head, which fomewhat proteded 
 me from the Intenfe heat of the fun's rays, which fell almoft per- 
 pendicularly. Walking was too violent an exercife at fuch a fea-- 
 fon, and our horfes only went a foot-pace, in order to keep with 
 the baggage horfe. A league beyond Ronda is a broken aque- 
 dud, of which thirty- feven arches are yet entire. During the 
 
 four-
 
 SPAIN. 267 
 
 ibur firft hours of this day's journey, the road was very beauti- 
 fully diverfified, having the little river of Ronda to the right, 
 and on both fides high mountains covered with vines, olive 
 and cork trees, and green-oaks. At two leagues from Ronda 
 I obferved a torrent pouring into the river, from a large c-avern 
 in the fide of an oppofite mountain. After dining, or fup- 
 ping, as this meal ferved for both, on an olla podrida of fait 
 bacalldo, which is like the fifli called poor-jack, fried in oil, 
 with peafe, garhck, and red pepper, I turned into my ftraw 
 neft at eight in the evening, and flept comfortably till two the 
 next morning. 
 
 June 23. I was on horfeback the moment after I awaked, for 
 I had not undrefled myfelf, and my horfe had pafled the night 
 in the fame apartment with me. After travelling fix leagues 
 we arrived at San Roque, having defcended a mountain, which 
 we did foon after leaving Alguzin ; the road is tolerably level 
 and good. I this day alfo rode eleven hours without flopping : 
 as the road admitted it, I amufed myfelf in galloping about a 
 mile before, then difmounted, and lay in the Ihade of fome tree 
 or other till the baggage came up. I fliot a butcher-bird, of 
 which I faw great numbers, which I alfo did of a kind of black 
 martins, which meafured near twenty inches with their wings 
 extended : thefe birds fly like fwallows in flocks, and at a great 
 height. It was one in the afternoon when we arrived at San 
 Roque. I immediately went to fleep for two hours, and after- 
 wards waited on the governor to obtain leave to pafs the Spanifli 
 
 ]VI 2 lines :
 
 268 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 lines. But he would on no account -permit my horfe to pafs- 
 them, unlefs I confented to have it returned to San Roque the 
 fame evening, fearing that I might export it from Gibraltar, 
 which is ftridlly prohibited. ; accordingly, I was obliged to con- 
 form, and agreed with the landlord of the inn, who is an Ita^ 
 lian, that he fhould keep my horfe in his ftable till my return. 
 We then fet out and proceeded to Gibraltar, which is only one 
 league from San Roque, but we were two hours in performing- 
 it, as the road is a deep and heavy fand. The country is quite 
 barren. We then pafled the Spanifh lines, and fhortly after 
 the Englifh lines ; entered the town, and put up at a very 
 bad inn, where the beds were full of bugs, which were the 
 firft I had yet felt in Spain. The nest day I changed my 
 inn, and went to the King's arms, which is a very good one, 
 and contains the aflembly-room. All the inns here are kept by 
 Britilh fubjefts. I waited on the governor. General Boyd, and 
 had the honour of dining at his excellency's houfe, in com- 
 pany with admiral Sir Peter Dennis, whofe (hip was then in 
 the bay. 
 
 The town of Gibraltar, which has been in pofleffion of the 
 Englifh fince the year 1706, is fituated at the foot of the weft 
 fide of a mountain, or rock, called Calpe by the ancients, 
 which ftands by itfelf, in 36° 8' latitude. The length of this 
 mountain is about two miles and three quarters from the north 
 end, which rifing abruptly out of the fmall ifthmus, joins it to 
 the continent : the moft fouthern part is called Europa Point. 
 
 Its.
 
 S P A T N. 269 
 
 Rs perpendicular height above the level of the fea is one thoM- 
 fand three hundred and fixty feet, but Colonel James fays one 
 thoufand four hundred and three. The eaftern fide is almoft inac- 
 eeflible, though feveral officers affured me they had clambered 
 up to the fummit by that fide. Many apes and monkles inha- 
 bit its caverns and precipices, and are frequently fhot : it Is 
 thought that thefe animals are not produced in any other part of 
 Europe. The birds called folitary fparrows are alfo found 
 here^ 
 
 In the firft volume of Edwards's Natural Hiftory of Birds, is x~ 
 coloured figure of the folitary fparrow. The fourth volume of 
 that work is dedicated to GOD; and at the end of that ex- 
 traordinary dedication is as extraordinary a preface. The 
 book was printed at London fo lately as the year 175 I.- 
 Mr. Edwards has furpaffed In this refpeft any author I know 
 of. A Spanlfh book, entitled. Sayings a?id Deeds of King Don 
 Philip n. printed In Madrid in 1748, ia dedicated to " the 
 " moft facred Emprefs of Heaven and Earth, Mary, Mother of 
 " God, Lady of the Univerfe, and Queen of the Angels." 
 And the Italian book, entitled, Embriologia Sacra, by F. E.- 
 Cangiamlla, of Palermo, Dodlor of Divinity and of Laws, is dedi- 
 cated to all the Guardian Angels. This book (quarto, Milan 1751, 
 three hundred and twenty pages), treats about the duty of priefts 
 and phyficians, who are to fecure the eternal falvatlon of 
 children £hut up In the womb, by baptlfing them by means of 
 
 a fpunge,
 
 270 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 a fpunge, or a fyringe, as is defcribed in the firft volume 
 ef Triftram Shandy. A large copper-plate decorates this 
 ingenious work, in which is reprefented a foetus of fourteen 
 different fizes, from the age of it\&x\ days to that of four 
 months and a half; and the motto is from Matth. xviii. 
 V. 10. " Take heed that ye defpife not one of thefe little 
 
 " ones." 
 
 In blowing up the rock in various places, many pieces of 
 
 tones, teeth, &c. are daily found, incorporated with the ftone ; 
 
 fome of thefe pieces have been fent to England and depofited in 
 
 the Britifh Mufeum, &c. and in the Philofophical Tranfadlions 
 
 for 1770, is a circumftantial account of them. In the weft 
 
 fide of this mountain is the cave called St. Michael's, eleven 
 
 hundred and ten feet above the horizon, I entered it by the 
 
 light of feveral torches, about two hundred paces : there are 
 
 many pillars of various fizes, from the thicknefs of a goofe-quill 
 
 to two feet in diameter, formed by the droppings of water, 
 
 which have petrified in falling ; the water perpetually drips 
 
 from the roof, and forms an infinite number oi Jlala5iitce of a 
 
 whitifh colour, compofed of feveral coats or crufts, and which, 
 
 as well as the pillars, continually increafe in bulk, and will 
 
 probably, in procefs of time fill the whole cavern. At the end 
 
 of this cave is a hole of about fix feet in diameter, of which the 
 
 ^epth is uncertain, and I had no inclination to explore it ; bats 
 .abound here. One evening I afcended to the fummit of the 
 
 rock
 
 SPAIN. 271 
 
 Kock in an hour, by the path called the Devil's-Gap, on a flight 
 of two hundred ftone fteps, and then after having walked fome 
 time, went up four hundred more, which brought me to the 
 fignal-houfe built on the higheft part of the mountain. The 
 weather was very clear, fo that I enjoyed the profped: of the 
 town, the bay, the ftraits, Mount Abila, or Ape's-hill, on the 
 African fhore, the city of Ceuta, and great part of the Barbary 
 coaft; the towns of St. Roque and Algeziras, and the fnowy 
 Alpuxarra mountains. At night an infinitely greater number 
 of ftarsy 
 
 " The life-infufing funs of other worlds," 
 
 may be difcovered from hence by the naked eye than from be- 
 low, becaufe in this elevated fituation the atmofphere is much 
 more pure and thin. I defcended another way, paihng by the 
 remains of the Moorifli caftle. I was informed that there were 
 at that time feven regiments In Gibraltar, and that about fix 
 hundred men were always on guard at a time : the difcipline 
 obferved here is very ftri£l, and the officers always appear in 
 their regimentals. There are three hundred and forty guns 
 mounted on the fortifications, and there is room for a hundred 
 more : thofe of the grand , battery are of bronze, the reft of 
 iron : they are all fired in fucceffion on the anniverfary of his 
 majefty's birth ; the performance takes half an hour. At fun- 
 rife, fun-fet, and at nine in the evening, a gun is daily 
 fired. 
 
 The.
 
 S72 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 The town confifts chiefly of one ftreet, which is tolerably 
 broad and well paved ; the other ftreets are crooked, narrow, 
 and dirty : it contains an Englifh church, a Roman-Cathohc 
 one for the Spaniards and Portuguefe, who inhabit this town to 
 the number of about three hundred, and are moftly fhop- 
 keepers, and for about feven hundred Genoefe, chiefly mari- 
 ners ; and a fynagogue for the Jews, who amount nearly to the 
 number of fix hundred : I conjecture that of the Englifh to be 
 about two thoufand, exclufive of the military : befides thefe, 
 there are a few hundred Moors who continually pafs and repafs 
 to and from the Barbary coaft, trafficking in cattle, fowls, fifli, 
 fruits, and other provifions, as nothing is to be had from Spain, 
 which neither Jews nor Moors are ever fuff^ered to enter. The 
 town has three gates ; out of one of them I obferved fome of- 
 ficers playing at golf on the fands, in the fame manner as I had 
 feen that game played on the Links, (a heath near Edinburgh,) 
 Leith, &c. 
 
 There is a fmall theatre, where I had the pleafure of feeing 
 High Life Beloio Stairs, and Mifs in her Teens extremely well 
 performed : the adors were military gentlemen, who entertain 
 themfelves weekly in this manner : the adrefles are fo by pro- 
 feflion. 
 
 All European coins are current here, but confiderably under 
 the value ; a guinea pafles for no more than nineteen fhillings and 
 iix pence ; five Spanifh reals are only three here ; a pefo duro, 
 
 which
 
 SPAIN. 273 
 
 which is here called a cob-t is a dollar and a half of Gibraltar 
 currency. 
 
 No perfon is allowed to go out of the Englifh territory, either 
 by land or fea, without a pafs from the governor, who grants 
 the inhabitants one annually. No veflels, nor even boats, coming 
 from Gibraltar are fuffered to land their people in any of the 
 Spanifh ports, till after they have performed a quarantine of 
 three or four days. Here are taverns, cofFee-houfes, billiard- 
 tables, fhops, &c. as in England. The governor's garden is 
 open to the public, and is much reforted to on Sunday evenings. 
 
 Since my return to England I obtained permiffion from the 
 Board of Ordnance to fee the model of Gibraltar, which is kept 
 in the Tower ; it is five feet in length, and is extremely accu- 
 rate in regard to the dimenfions of the rock, though many 
 new fortifications have been added to Gibraltar fince this model 
 was made, which was thirty years ago. 
 
 I had a great inclination to make an excurfion to Fez ; accord- 
 ingly I procured the neceffary pafles and letters, and agreed 
 with the mafter of a fmall veffel that he fhould come to fetch me 
 at Ceuta, from whence I intended to be landed on the fhore of 
 the river of Tetuan. I bought feveral pounds of green-tea, 
 loaves of fugar, and filk handkerchiefs, to prefent to the 
 Moorifli governors, and hired a Moor who fpoke Engliih and 
 Spanifh extremely well, to accompany me. I fet out on the 
 
 N n 5th
 
 274 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 5th of July, on a mule, and after riding four leagues along 
 the fhore, arrived at the village of Algeciras, which the Englifh 
 fallors call Old Gib. I here procured a bill of health, and the 
 next morning, at four, embarked in the Spanifh packet, which 
 fails twice a week from hence to Ceuta, and croffing the Straits- 
 in feven hours, we landed at that city : the dlftance is about 
 feven leagues. I immediately waited on the governor, who was 
 fo obliging as to order an officer to accompany me about the 
 town, and In the evening I faw the Italian opera of la Buona 
 Figluola, adted by a company of ftrolling players. Probably if I 
 had travelled from Ceuta to Grand-Cairo, or to the Cape of 
 Good-Hope, by land, I fhould not have feen another opera. This 
 city belongs to the Spaniards ; it is fituated on the north fide of a 
 peninfula, of about three miles in length, and has no communi- 
 cation with the Barbary dominions, fo that it can only be entered 
 from the fea. The garrifon confifls of four regiments, orabouti 
 three thoufand men ; and two hundred very fine and large bronze 
 guns are planted on the fortifications. It is the place of exile as 
 well for ftate criminals as for malefadors : thefe laft are chain- 
 ed by the leg, and made to work. I obferved a man with a fmall 
 brafs ladder faftened to the loop of his hat, in the manner of a 
 cockade ; I was informed he was the executioner. Thefe men 
 are not allowed to wear a cloak in any part of Spain. The only inn 
 in this place, which is kept by an Italian, is infufferably bad j 
 however, I only ftaid there one night, as the next day at noon^ 
 the veflel which I had hired at Gibraltar being arrived, I imme- 
 diately embarked, and at feven in the evening we anchored vx 
 
 the.
 
 SPAIN. 275 
 
 the bay of Tetuan, which is feven leagues from Ceuta : the 
 furf was fo high that I could not land, and the wind became fo 
 violent, that at four the next morning we were obliged to weigh 
 anchor and return to Gibraltar, where we landed at eleven, 
 having in that time failed thirteen leagues. In the evening of 
 the fame day the wind abated, fo that I re-embarked at eight 
 on board the fame veflel, and at ten the next morning we 
 landed on the Tetuan fhore. We caught two large dog-fi(h, and 
 gathered a great quantity of mufcles from off the rocks. 
 
 I walked to the cuftom-houfe, or marteen, which is about 
 two miles inland. A fmall village is built near it, and at that 
 time a fair was held for mules, cattle, fheep, and fruit. Here I faw 
 -a great number of florks. Near this place is a fmall fquare fort 
 with four guns ; there is no other entrance but at the window, 
 by means of a rope-ladder, which is afterwards drawn <up. The 
 Moors I faw here were in general tall handfome men, with long 
 beards ; their arms and legs are bare, they wear turbants on 
 their heads, and yellow flippers on their feet. There is a dock here, 
 in which were five fmall .gallies on the flocks. Many of the 
 men fpoke Englifh extremely well : fome of them were playing 
 at draughts. I did not fee one Moorifh woman, and probably 
 fhould not if 1 had remained there till this time. I waited here 
 four hours, at the end of which, the guide, who was to have 
 travelled with me, returned from Tetuan whither I had fent 
 him, which city is about four miles off, and is fituated on the . 
 ilope of a hill, as I could diftindly perceive from whence we 
 
 N n 2 were.
 
 2/6 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 were. I knew that I could not enter into Tetuan, becaufe 
 a Genoefe failor having a few months before accidentally fhot a 
 Moorirti woman, the emperor had turned all the Chriftians out 
 of that city, even the confuls, and would fufFer no flrangers. 
 but Jews to enter it. 
 
 But to my very great forrow and difappointment, the guide 
 informed me, that there was a new order fent to the governor, 
 to fufFer no Chriftian, or European, to travel inland to«any 
 place whatfoever : this information at once blafted all my hopes 
 of feeing the manners and cuftoms of thefe people, which was 
 the more vexatious, as they totally differ from thofe of the 
 Europeans, and that this was the only opportunity I ever had of 
 travelling among them. All my fine fchemes of riding on 
 camels, feeing the court of the emperor of Morocco, aflbciating 
 with the'Jewifh ladies, &c. were diffolved and vanifhed. How- 
 ever, as there was no poflibility of proceeding, I was obliged to 
 fubmit patiently. I dilmifled my guide, and returned to the 
 fliore. The veffel I came in remained to take in her loading, 
 and very fortunately for me, there was another veffel ready to 
 fail. Accordingly, twenty-two mules, twelve oxen, twelve 
 thick-tailed fheep, and myfelf embarked in it at two in the after- 
 noon, and at three the next morning we arrived again at Gibral-- 
 tar ; fo that in five days I made as many voyages, in three diffe- 
 rent vefTels, in all fifty-fix leagues, employed my time and 
 money in a fruitlefs and difagreeable manner ; and after all, 
 have only the idle fatisfaiStion of having barely fet my feet upon 
 
 She
 
 SPAIN: 277 
 
 tfie African continent. Several of the Moors whom I faw were 
 on horfeback ; the^ ride with fhort ftirrups, and their fed^les 
 are very high before and behind. Their money confifts of blan- 
 quillos, which are fmall pieces of filver, ftamped with Arabic 
 chara£ters, and of round bits of copper, with any impreffion : 
 the Spanifti coins are likewife current in Barbary *, 
 
 On the 1 6th of July I left Gibraltar, having hired a mule for 
 my fervant, another for my baggage, and a man to lead it on^ 
 
 * In 1771, was publifiied a work, in two quarto volumes, entitled, 
 ♦' The Hiftory of the Straits of Gibraltar, including thofe ports of Spain 
 " and Barbary that lie contiguous thereto," by lieutenant-colonel Thomas 
 James. This work contains the following eighteen plates, which are all 
 very accurate and well engraven. 
 
 In the Firft Volume. 
 Chart of the Straits, Plan of Cadiz. 
 
 Plan of Tangier, Chart of the Bay of Cadiz. 
 
 In the Second Volume. 
 Plan of the peninfula of Ceuta, Plan of the parade. 
 
 Plan of part of a houfe in Tetuan, Two plates with the plan, eleva. 
 
 Plan of the north part of Gibraltar, tion, and fedlion of a fountain. 
 
 Three views of Gibraltar, A fmall plan of a vault. 
 
 General plan of the peninfula of And three Arabic infcriptions. 
 
 Gibraltar, 
 
 The three views of Gibraltar were copied from four large plates, publifli- 
 ed in 1750, by J. Mace. 
 
 To this work I refer for a more particular account of Gibraltar ; the author 
 lefided in that garrifon from 1749 to 1755, His account of the currents is 
 very curious, as well as that of Tetuan. Mentioning the Spanifh priefts 
 in Gibraltar, he fays, " Generally fpeaking, but one prieft refides here at 
 " a time ; fometimes he has a vifiting brother. They live very well, and 
 " will drink freely, and enjoy the fair fex." Which cuftoms I believe are 
 fbllowed by other ecclefiaftics befides thofe of Spain, 
 
 foot,,.
 
 278 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 »foot, to go to Cadiz, in three days (the diflance is eighteen 
 leagues, or about feventy-two miles), myfelf riding my own 
 horfe, which had been twenty-three days in the ftable at San 
 Roque. We did not fet out till noon, fo that we only travelled 
 three leagues that day, to the village de los Barrios, where 
 there is no inn nor venta, but I prevailed on an old fruit- 
 woman to let me pafs the night on a large cheft in her fhop; 
 having firft placed fome ftraw on it, and fupped on gaf- 
 pacJw., This is an excellent kind of foupe-ffiaigre, than which 
 nothing can be more cooling or refrefliing during the violent 
 heats : it is made by putting a fufficient quantity of oil, vine- 
 gar, fait, and pepper, into a quart of cold water, and adding 
 to it crufls of bread, garlick and onions flired fmall. The bread 
 all over Spain almofl: rivals fnow in \Yhitenefs, and is very deli- 
 cious. Our hoftefs fupplied us with plenty of fruit, and then 
 obligingly fmoked a fegar with me. The beafls remained all 
 night in the yard. 
 
 July 17. At four this morning we proceeded on our journey, 
 and after having travelled five leagues in near eight hours, on a 
 mountainous road, through forefts of cork-trees, we arrived at 
 a few huts of mud, which are dignified with the name of the 
 village of Taivilla. After our J eji a we went to Vegel, which is 
 three leagues off, traverfing a circular plain of about a league 
 in diameter, fwarming with locufts and grafshoppers, and leav- 
 ing a finall lake, called La Jarda, which we faw, to the right. 
 We pafTed over a ftrong ftone bridge of four arches, one of 
 
 which
 
 SPAIN. 279 
 
 which is very large, and immediately put up at the miferable 
 venta at the foot of the mountain on which the town of Vegel 
 is built. I obferved very niunerous herds of cattle grazing in. 
 the pafture lands.. 
 
 July 18. 
 
 " Scarce had the fun dry'd up the dew of morni*" 
 when we again fet out, and traverfing a heath, and fome olive- 
 grounds, after three leagues journey, we arrived at the town o€ 
 Chiclana : it is pretty large, and confifts chiefly of houfes built 
 by the merchants of Cadiz for their fummer retirement : thefe 
 houfes are plaiftered and white-wafhed, the doors and fhutters 
 are painted green, and the roofs are flat. The inn where we 
 dined is a very good, one. In the afternoon we proceeded two 
 leagues farther, on a very fine ftrait and level road, broad 
 enough for four carriages abreafl:, having a forefl of pine-trees 
 on one fide, and falt-marfhes on the other. We paflTed over a 
 ftrong ftone bridge of five fmall arches, called el Puente de 
 Siiazo, with a fort at the end, then entered into the ifle of Leon, 
 and fhortly after into the town of the fame name, though it is 
 ufually termed La Yfla. This is a large new-built town, much 
 refembling Chiclana; and the inn, which is kept by Italians, 
 is an excellent one. It is but two leagues diftant from Cadiz, fo 
 that it is much reforted to by the inhabitants of that city on par- 
 ties of pleafure. I returned here four times, and fliall afterwards 
 give fome farther account of this town, 
 
 July
 
 28o TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 July 19. At five in the morning I fet out, and at feven 
 arrived at Cadiz, travelling on a very fine road. I put up at an 
 Irifli inn, kept by one Latty, and met with very civil ufage 
 during the whole time of my ftay. As his majefty's confial was 
 in England, I waited on Mr. Dalrymple, the vice-conful, who 
 was fo kind as to accompany me to the governor's el Conde de 
 Gerena. I afterwards delivered my Introdudory letters, and 
 in the evening attended fome ladies firft to the Spanifli theatre, 
 and after the performance was ended, to the French theatre, 
 which then opened. The Spaniih one confifts of three rows of 
 boxes, nineteen in each row : thefe are all let to different fa- 
 milies, fo that ftrangers go into the pit, vrhere the price of ad- 
 mittance is about a fliilling, and from thence they can go from 
 box to box to vifit their acquaintances. A tragedy, tranflated 
 from the French, called Zayde^ was aded for the firft time. The 
 fcenes were not changed during the whole piece : the adtors 
 were far from being excellent, fo that my chief entertainment 
 there was derived from the fandangos and tonadillas which were 
 danced and fung between the a£ts. The French theatre is ex- 
 tremely grand, large, handfome, and well illuminated, and 
 the adors, fingers, dancers, and muficians, were all capital 
 performers : I efteem it to be the moft magnificent, and the beft 
 furniflied with adtors of any French theatre out of France. I 
 had before feen thofe of the Hague, Amflerdam, Bruflels, Ber- 
 lin, Drefden, and Vienna, all which arc furpafled by this of 
 Cadiz. The price of a pit ticket is about two fhillings and three 
 pence. 
 
 Befidcs
 
 S P A I N. 281 
 
 Befides thefe two, there is another theatre for the perform- 
 ance of ItaUan operas : it confifts of four rows of boxes, fix- 
 teen in each row. The price of a ticket for the pit is the fame 
 as at the French theatre. 1 faw the comic opera of la Locanda 
 reprefented here. 
 
 After thefe diverfions end, which is ufually about half paft 
 eleven, it is cuftomary to walk in the alameda, or mall, till 
 midnleht. Here I faw 
 
 o 
 
 " Donne e Donzelle, 
 
 D' ogni eta, d'ogni forte, e brutte e belle." 
 
 Ariofto, Cant. xvii. v. 33. 
 
 Among the reft I obferved feveral ladies who had fixed glow- 
 worms by threads to their hair, which had a luminous and pleaf- 
 ing effect. In the book de las Noticias Americanas^ publifhed in 
 1772, by Don Antonio de Ulloa, page 143, I find that thePe- 
 ruvian ladies likewife ornament their heads, necks, and arms, 
 with firings of fhining flies, the fplendor of which gives them 
 the appearance of coronets, necklaces, and bracelets of natural 
 lights. This alameda is planted with double rows of white elms; 
 feats of ftone are fixed on each fide : it is parted from the coach- 
 road by iron rails, and commands a fine view of the ocean. It 
 is as much reforted to by ladies of eafy virtue as our St. James's 
 Park, and is the only place in Spain where I found fuch bare- 
 faced licentioufnefs and libertinifm. Mafquerades ar€ permitted 
 during the carnival. 
 
 O o July
 
 282 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 July 20. I fpent this day in viewing the city : it is very^ 
 fmall, and is fituated on the extremity, or neck of a fandy 
 ifland, or rather peninfula, joined to the continent by the be- 
 fore-mentioned bridge de Suazo. It is about fixteen miles long, 
 and nine miles in the broadeft part. The harbour is very capa- 
 cious, being no lefs than nine miles in diameter, and the city 
 is the moft commercial in Spain, the firft marine department, 
 and the center of all the traffic to the Weft Indies. The author 
 of le Voyageur Fra?icois., in the fixteenth volume, gives a juft 
 and concife account of this trade, of which an extraft is here in- 
 ferted. " Cadiz is the place where the Englifh, French, Dutch, 
 " and Italian merchants fend their goods to be exported to 
 *' America in Spanifh veiFels, which are divided into three 
 *' clafles ; the fleet fjijtaj^ the regifter fhips, and the galleons. 
 ** Thtfota confifts of three men of war, and fourteen or fifteen 
 *' merchant fhips, w^hofe burthen is from four hundred to a 
 " thoufand tons. Thofe veffels are loaden with the beft Euro- 
 *' pean produdlions ; filks, fluffs, linen, velvet, ribbons, laces, 
 " glafs, looking-glaffes, paper, hard-ware, watches, clocks, 
 " fhoes, ftockings, books, prints, pictures, iron utenfils, 
 " wine, fruit, &c. {o that every nation is intereded in the 
 " lading. Spain hardly contributes any thing but wine, 
 " which w'ith the freight, brokerage, and taxes to the king, 
 " are all the advantage fhe derives from this commerce. The 
 " fleet fails from Cadiz to la Vera Cruz: the veffels which com- 
 *' pofe it axe not allowed to part company, nor to put in, nor 
 '* break bulk any where on the voyage. It takes in return; 
 
 " gold.
 
 SPAIN, 283 
 
 <* gold, filver, jewels, cochineal, indigo, tobacco, fiigar, 
 *' cocoa, &c. 
 
 " The regifter fiiips are equipped by, and fail for account of 
 " fome private merchants of Seville and Cadiz. When they 
 " think that the Americans are in want of certain goods, they 
 *' prefent a petition to the council of the Indies, and defire leave' 
 «' to fend each of them a veflel of three hundred tons, for which 
 " leave they pay a certain fum ; and, befides, are obliged to 
 *' make conliderable prefents to different officers ; and, though 
 ^* they only obtain leave to fend veflels of three hundred tons, 
 *' there, neverthelefs, hardly ever fails any but fuch as are at leaft 
 " of double that burthen. 
 
 " The galleon fleet is compofed of eight fliips of the line, 
 *' chiefly deftined to furnifh Peru with warlike ftores, but they 
 *' are alfo filled with various merchandize for account of private 
 " perfons. Twelve other vefTels fail under their convoy. This 
 «' fleet may only trade on the coafts of the South Sea, and the 
 ■" other is limited to Mexico." 
 
 The hOufes in Cadiz are very high, and the city is faid to 
 contain eighty thoufand inhabitants. 
 
 In the evening I went to the Royal Obfervatory, which is 
 well fupplied with telefcopes, microfcopes, air-pumps, eledri- 
 cal machines, and all kinds of mathematical inftruments, 
 
 O o 2 chiefly
 
 284 TR AVE LS THROUGH 
 
 chiefly made in London by Mr. Dollond and. Mr. Bird. I had' 
 a fmall telefcope with me, which I had bought of the firil men- 
 tioned artift for thirty-five {hillings, by the afTiftance of which, 
 the aftronomers obferved diftindly the immerfion of one of the- 
 fatellites of Jupiter. I was here informed that the precife lati- 
 tude of Cadiz is 36° 31' 2q".. 
 
 July 21; In the cathedral I faw a very good pidlure of Sii 
 Sebaftian and an angel, by Murillo, whole length, and as large as 
 the life -, the back ground is turned very black. I then went to 
 the convent of Capuchin friars ; over the great altar, in the 
 church, is a pidure twenty feet in height, and fourteen iii 
 breadth, painted by the fame Murillo : it reprefents the efpou- 
 fals of St. Catherine. The figures are the Virgin Mary, the 
 Child, St. Catherine, and feveral angels, all whole lengths, and , 
 as large as the life. This was the painter's laft work, as he fell 
 from the fcafFold which was eredled before it, broke his leg, 
 and fhortly after died. In the Sacrifty are two other pidures by 
 this artift, one of which reprefents the AfTumption of the Vir- 
 gin, which is a fingle figure, w. 1. n. f. and the other, a half- 
 length of Chrift, bound and crowned with thorns. I afterwards 
 went to the houfe of el Marques de Pedrcfo, where I faw another 
 pidlure painted by Murillo, and juftly efteemed to be his beft 
 piece : it reprefents the child Jefus at about the age of five years, 
 ftanding on a ftone, on its left hand is Mary fitting, and on its 
 right Jofeph, who is reprefented as if going to kneel ; they hold 
 both the child's hands, each in their right hand : the Virgin^ 
 
 face.
 
 SPA I N; 2S5 
 
 face is almofl in profile; fhe looks towards the child, andjofeph 
 towards the fpedtator ; in his left hand he holds a branch of 
 white lilies : the upper part of the pidure reprefents Diosy el 
 Efpir'itu Santo, under the fhapes of an old man and a dove. I 
 efteem this to be the beft pidure I ever faw painted by a Spani- 
 ard. I could not learn that there were any other good paintings 
 in Cadiz. 
 
 I purpofely omit the ancient, true or fabulous, hiftory of 
 this city, and of the Egyptian Hercules, who is faid to have fe- 
 parated the mountains Calpe and Abyla ; the firft of which is 
 the rock of Gibraltar, and the other Ape's-hill in Barbary, by 
 which means he opened a communication of the ocean with the 
 Mediterranean ; he then ereded two pillars, as he thought, at 
 the limits of the world ; to which alludes 
 
 " a Gadibus ufque. 
 
 Ad Auroram & Gangen." 
 
 On them was engraven this well known infcription : Non plus 
 ultra. Charles V. erafed the non, and preferved the plus ultra 
 for his own motto. I think it fufficient to mention that Cadiz . 
 is the Gades of the ancients ; it was firft inhabited by the Phoeni- 
 cians, then by the Carthaginians, and afterwards by the Ro- 
 mans, during which time I find it recorded in an old French 
 book, " That their great riches had introduced fuch luxury, 
 « that the girls of Gades were fought after in all public rejoic- 
 *«^ logs, as well for their {kill in playing on divers inftruments 
 
 "■ of.
 
 286 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 " of mufic, que pour Icur hiimeitr^ qui avoit quelque chofe de plus 
 " que de i* eaj'jucment .'''' This fame book farther fays, that 
 *' neither women nor hogs were permitted to enter into the 
 " temple which was dedicated to Hercules." 
 
 Dr. Veryard, who was here in 1685, fays in page 278, of 
 his Travels, which were publifhed in 1701 : " In this temple 
 " was an altar dedicated to Poverty, and another to Arts and 
 *' Sciences, intimating, that poverty was the mother of arts ; 
 ** though, by a ftrange change, fcience is now become the nurfe 
 " of poverty." 
 
 The Reverend Mr. Clarke fays, that " in one convent in 
 *' this city, there is 2^ farcophagus with curious marble baflb-re- 
 *' lievos ; it is now a ciftern, and the good fathers have ftuck 
 *' -two brafs cocks into the bellies of two water-nymphs, who 
 " are henceforward condemned to a perpetual diabetes." I was 
 ignorant of this elegant remark at the time I was in Cadiz, fo 
 that I faw neither the nymphs nor the cocks. 
 
 Father Labat, who was here In 1705, fills two hundred pages 
 of his work with an account of Cadiz, part of which contains ex- 
 trafts from a Spanifh hiftory of that city, publifhed in 1610, 
 by a prebend of the holy church of Cadiz. This reverend wri- 
 ter aflures us, that this city is the Tarfis whither Solomon and 
 his friend king Hiram fent their fhips, and that in the mines 
 ** fe hallaran en el cora^on de la piedra, grams de oroy a manera 
 
 *' de
 
 S P A I N. 287 
 
 '*■ de pe^ones de pechos de mugeres •" i.e. " there were found in 
 " the heart of the ftone, grains of gold, like the nipples of 
 " womens breads." 
 
 All the ftreets in Cadiz are narrow, ci-ooked, badly paved, and 
 filthy. In 1722 a new church was begun, which is intended to 
 be the cathedral : the building was afterwards difcontinueJ^ 
 but is now refumed, and, according to contrad:, is to be roofed 
 within five years : it will be very magnificent, all that is hither- 
 to finifhed is of white marble, with very large fluted columns 
 of the Corinthian order. Underneath are very fpacious vaults 
 for fepulchres. According to a little book printed in Cadiz in 
 1770, there had already been fpent in this building fourteen 
 millions five hundred and eighty-fix thoufand reals of vellon,- 
 about one hundred and fixty-two thoufand pounds ; and it will 
 require as much again to complete it. Of thefe fourteen mil- 
 lions, about four were legacies and gifts, and the other ten 
 were the produce of one-fourth per cent, on the commerce- 
 of Cadiz. 
 
 There are about thirty Engllfli merchants refiding here, and 
 a great number of French, Italians, Germans, Dutch, &c. but 
 they affociate but little with the Spaniards; and in none of the 
 Spanifh houfes where I fpent my evenings during near a 
 month that I remained here, did I ever fee any Englifli- 
 man. 
 
 On
 
 £88 TRAVELS T H R O U G H 
 
 On Sunday the 25th of July, I eroded the bay, which is 
 nine miles broad, -in a boat, and after failing an hour, I landed at 
 the town of Port St. Mary, and had the fatisfadion I had fo long 
 defircd, of feeing a bull-fight, of which fpedacle I had formed 
 very erroneous ideas. As there has been no modern account of 
 it publifhed in the Englifli language, excepting by Mr. Clarke 
 and Mr. Baretti, and thofe accounts differ greatly from what I 
 faw both in Port St. Mary and in Cadiz, I {hall endeavour 
 to defcribe them exadlly as they were exhibited. Mr. Clarke 
 had an opportunity of feeing ^fiejia de toros., which I never had, 
 this fignifics bull-feajl., and is only celebrated on extraordinary 
 occafions, fuch as a coronation, the birth of an heir to the 
 crown, the marriages of the royal family, &c. Thofe which I 
 faw are termed regocijos de toros^ buU-rcjoicings. In Port St. 
 Mary there are annually ten, in Cadiz twelve, in Seville four, 
 in Granada four, and in Madrid and Aranjuez each fix, on the 
 Sundays of the months of June, July, and Auguft, becaufe the 
 bulls will not fight except during the hot feafon. 
 
 The amphitheatre of Port St. Mary, as well as that of Cadiz, 
 is entirely built of wood, and of no better architedlure than the 
 fcaffoldings at Tyburn. Their form and dimenfions are like 
 thofe which have been before defcribed *. At four in the after- 
 noon I fecured one of the beft places, paying fifteen reals, or 
 
 * Ufually about two hundred feet in diameter. See p. 137, 18S, and 235 
 «f this v/otlc. 
 
 three
 
 S P A I N. 289 
 
 three fhillings and four pence. Thofe on the fide which is ex- 
 pofed to the fun, are only ten reals, and the lowefl; places arc 
 fix pence each. The amphitheatre was foon filled, the boxes 
 with ladies and gentlemen full drelTed, and the benches under- 
 neath with the mob : the coup d'oeil was very pleafing, efpecial- 
 ly by reafon of its novelty. If women acfted confidently, it 
 were to be wondered at how thofe who would either faint, 
 or feign to faint at the fight of a frog, a fpider, &c. can de- 
 light in fpedlacles fo barbarous as thefe are, where they are cer- 
 tain of feeing a number of bulls expire in agonies, horfes 
 with their bellies ripped open, men toffed on the beafts 
 horns, or trampled to death, and every fpecies of cruelty exhi- 
 bited ; but as they do not ad: confidently, the wonder ceafes : 
 the greater the barbarity, and the more the bloodihed, the 
 greater enjoyment they teftify, clapping their hands, waving 
 their handkerchiefs, and hallooing, the more to enrage the bull. 
 I have feen fome women throw handfuls of nuts into the area 
 of the combat, in hopes of caufing the men who fight the bull 
 on foot to fall over them. But as no general rule is without its 
 exceptions, I own with pleafure, that I am acquainted with 
 many Spanifli ladies who never were prefent at a bull-fight, 
 neither did they intend ever to fee one *. The governor of the 
 city having feated himfelf in his box, the men who vvcre to 
 fifrht the bulls made him their obeifance ; the area was then 
 
 '&' 
 
 *" The Reverend Mr. Clarke fays, that he {i^-^ " laJies fcading with 
 " thefc bloody fcenes thcfe eyes which were intendid only to be cxercifed 
 •*' in fofter cruelties." 
 
 P p cleared
 
 290 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 cleared of the mob, by a company of foldiers, who placed thenv- 
 felves jail within the rails, which are breaft high. Ten bulls, 
 which is the fixed number, were to be killed. Three men on 
 horfeback were to encounter the bull ; thefe are called pieadoresy 
 jockeys : befides thefe, were four men who were to fight on 
 foot, thefe they term vanderilleros, flag- bearers, and three ma- 
 tador es^ flayers. Thefe are all butchers, cattle-drivers, &c. 
 trained up from their youth to, and who gain their livelihood by 
 this perilous profeflion : the firfl: are paid between three and four 
 pounds each, every day on which they fight ; the fccond have 
 half that fum ; but the laft, by being mofl: expofed to danger, 
 and more dexterity being required of them, are allowed ten or 
 twelve pounds each. Sevent)'^ or eighty horfes are kept in readi- 
 nefs in an adjacent fl.able : each of thefe beafts is of the value 
 of about five or fix pounds ; as they are often killed, and almofl: 
 always maimed, thefe anfwer the purpofc fufficiently. The 
 faddles have a high peak before and behind, without which it 
 would be Impoflible to fit on the horfes, which are with great 
 difficulty made to face the bull ; fometimes they tremble with 
 terror, rear up, kick, and are ungovernable : they are then 
 obliged to have a handkerchief tied over their eyes, efpecially 
 thofe which have been wounded in fome former combat. Their 
 riders wear a kind of breeches and boots made of very thick 
 buff leather, more impenetrable than even the bottes fortes of 
 the French poftlllions, but fupple ; thefe are to prevent the 
 bull's horns from goring the man fo eafily as they might o^her- 
 wife do ; ftrong fpurs are faftened to their heels. They are 
 
 dreflqd:
 
 SPAIN. 291 
 
 drefled in a walftcoat and fhort cloak, a broad brimmed hat on 
 their heads, tied by a ribbon under their chins : their left hand 
 manages the reins, and in their right they have a lance as thick 
 as the wrift, and ten feet long, armed with a broad iron blade 
 of a foot in length, but which is, by a thong twifted round it, 
 prevented from entering more than a hand's-breadth into the 
 bull's body. The foot-men wear light jackets and a long cloak ; 
 they have each a fmall dart in their hands, with a barbed 
 point; the dart is ornamented with cut paper, like fly-traps: 
 there are baikets full of thefe darts behind the baluftrades, 
 as the men frequently ufe half a dozen a piece to each bull, 
 which, when dead, is dragged away with all the darts flicking in 
 its body. The matadorcs are habited in the fime manner as the 
 lafl mentioned, and likewife amufe thcmfelves by ftriking darts 
 into the bulls. Their particular office will be explained 
 hereafter. 
 
 Every thing being ready, the bulls remained to be driven a- 
 crofs the area from the ftables where they were, to a fmaller 
 liable behind the amphitheatre, where each was to be kept apart. 
 The firft liable was not far from the amphitheatre, and a VN-all of 
 boards fix feet high was put up the whole way the bulls were to 
 pafs. At a quarter pafl four the ten hulls were let into the area, 
 in order to be put into the flables at the oppofite door; a man 
 on foot led a tame ox, which had been bred with the bulls, be- 
 fore, to decoy them into thefe : they followed the ox very quiet- 
 ly ; but they do not always do fo. The three horfemen placed 
 
 P p 2 them-
 
 292 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 tliemfelves at fome diflance, one on each fide of, and the other 
 oppofite to the door at which the bull was to enter : a trumpet 
 was then founded as a fignal to let a bull in, and the man who. 
 opened the door got behind it immediately. 
 
 During this laft quarter of an hour the bulls had been teaf-» 
 ed by pricking them in the backs : this is done by perfons 
 placed on the ceiling of the ftables, which was low, and confift- 
 ed only of a plank laid here and there, and between thofe^ 
 planks was fpace enough to ufe any inftrument for that purpofe. 
 The bulls were diftinguifhed by a fmall knot of ribbon fixed to 
 their flioulders, the different colours of which fhew where they 
 were bred, which is known by the advertifements. 
 
 The bull made at the nrft horfeman, who received it on the 
 point of the fpear, held in the middle tight to his fide, and paf- 
 fing under his arm-pit, which making a wide gafh in the bull's 
 flioulder, occafioncd it to draw back, the blood running in tor- 
 rents : the force with which the bull ran at the man was fo great, 
 that the fhock had nearly overfet him and his horfe. It was 
 then another man's turn to wound the bull, as only one is to 
 cope with it at a time. They are never allowed to attack the 
 bull, but muft wait the animal's approach. The bull trotted in-- 
 to the middle of the area, and flared about, frighted by the- 
 clapping and hallooing of the multitude. The man on horfe- 
 back always facing the beaft, and turning when it turned: it 
 then ran at the horfe, and got another wound in the breaft, and . 
 
 a third .
 
 SPAIN. 2-93: 
 
 a third from the next horfeman it attacked. It was now be- 
 come mad with pain, the blood iffuing from its mouth in^ 
 ftreams, and faintnefs made it ftagger, its eyes " flaflied fury,'*' 
 it pawed up the ground, and lafhed its fides with its tail ; its 
 breath was impetuoufly difcharged like fmoke from its nof- 
 trils ; fo that its head appeared as if in a mift. A trumpet 
 then founded, which was the fignal for the horfemen to retire ; 
 and the men on foot began their attack, flicking barbed darts in- 
 to every part of its body ; the torture they inflided made the 
 bull leap from the ground, and run furioufly at one of the men, 
 who jumped afide ; the bull then turned to another man, who 
 hadjuft ftuck a dart into its back: this man took to his heels, 
 and leaped over the rails, where he was fafe : in this manner 
 all the men continued tormenting the bull, who could hardly ftand 
 through lofs of blood. The trumpet then founded again, upon 
 which the matador appeared, with a cloak extended on a ihort 
 ftick in his left hand, and in his right a two-edged fword, the 
 blade of which was flat, four inches broad, and a yard long ; 
 he flood ftill, and at the moment the bull in the agonies of 
 defpair and death, made at him, he plunged the fword into 
 the fpine behind the heart's horns, which inftantly made it drop 
 down dead. If the matador miffes his aim, and cannot defend 
 himfelf v^^ith the cloak, he lofes his life, as the bull exerts all its 
 remaining ftrength with an almoft inconceivable fury*. The 
 
 * When the matador fucceeds in killing the bull by a fingle thrurt-, the 
 populace throw money to him : I faw a Spanifh nobleman fling a gold' 
 
 piece-'
 
 294 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 dead bull was immediately dragged out of the area by three 
 horfes on a full gallop, whofe traces were faftened to ks horns. 
 A quarter of an hour was elapfed, which is the time allowed for 
 the murder of each bull, five minutes to the horfcmen, five to 
 the footmen, and five to the flayer. 
 
 Another bull was then let in : this was the wildeft and mofl fu- 
 rious of any I ever faw. The horfeman miffed his aim, and the 
 bull thrufl its horns into the horfe's belly, making the bowels 
 hang out : the horfe became ungovernable, fo that the man 
 was obliged to difmount and abandon it to the bull, who 
 purfued it round the area, till at laft the horfe fell, and expired. 
 Four other horfes were fucceffively killed by this bull, which, 
 till then, had only received flight wounds, though one of the 
 horfes had kicked its jaw to pieces. One of the horfemen broke 
 his fpcar in the bull's neck, and horfe and rider fell to the 
 ground ; the rider broke his leg, and was carried off. The 
 footmeii then fell to work again, and afterwards the matador 
 put an end to the life of this valiant animal, whofe ftrength and 
 courage were unavailing to favc it. The third bull killed two 
 horfes, goring them under the belly, fo that the inteftines hung 
 trailing on the ground. The feventh bull likewife killed two 
 horfes. In this manner were ten bulls maffacred, and the whole 
 concluded in two hours and a half. The bulls flefh was imme- 
 
 piece of three hundred reals, three pounds fix fhillings and eight pence, in- 
 to the area for him, on one of thefe occafiont. 
 
 "dlately
 
 SPAIN. 295 
 
 diately fold to the populace at ten quartos per pound, which i* 
 about three pence. 
 
 When the laft bull had been fufficiently wounded by the horfe- 
 men, the mob were allowed to enter the area ; they attacked 
 the bull on all fides, and killed it with their knives and daggers. 
 The bull fometimes tofles fome of thefe fellows over its head. 
 
 The Spanifli bulls are fhaped like Englilh oxen ; their horns 
 are very long, and they never bellow, or make the leaft noife 
 when they fight. 
 
 Dr. Goldfmith's remark is partly juft; he fays, " Thofe wild 
 " bulls, which the Spaniards pride themfelves fo much in com- 
 " bating, are very mean defpicable little animals, and fome- 
 " what fhaped like our cows, with nothing of that peculiar 
 " fternnefs of afpedl for which our bulls are remarkable." They 
 are however, formidable enough. 
 
 The foot-combatants are not expofed to much danger; their 
 fecurity depends upon their cloaks, which they fling on the 
 bull's head when purfued by it, and by that means evade the 
 animal, which always (huts its eyes before it pufhes. Much of 
 their fafety is likewife owing to their number; becaufe, when 
 the bull runs at one man, another attacks it behind, and makes 
 it turn. Some of thefe fellows will wait the bull's coming, and 
 then purpofely fall flat down, when the beafl runs over them, 
 
 and
 
 296 T R A V E L S T H Pv O U G H 
 
 and fpends its fury in the a'r. Some caft their hats on the 
 ground, which diverts the bull from the purfuit. Some bulls 
 will not fight at all : but of thofe which do, each has its peculiar 
 manner. 1 afterwards fawfeveral of the former : the populace 
 cried out, " !cs pcrros, los perros^' " the dogs, the dogs;" upon 
 which three bull-dogs were let loofe, and in a moment feizedthe 
 bull by the noftrils, with a fiercenefs equal, if not fuperior to 
 that of the Englifli dogs ; they pinned it to the ground, and 
 then the matador killed it, by ftriking a fmall dagger into the 
 fpine behind the horns ; the dogs could not be forced to quit 
 their hold, even though the bull was dead, till their maflers had 
 almoft ftrangled them by twilling ropes round their necks. 
 Thefe dogs are of the breed of thofe which the Spaniards car-" 
 ried with them when they conquered America, and by means 
 of which they fo barbaroufly caufed the natives to be torn to 
 pieces. 
 
 The bulls fkins are generally pierced with fo many holes, or 
 wounds, that they might be compared to fieves. Sometimes a 
 bull leaps over the rails among the people ; but this unwelcome 
 vifitor is foon killed, being entangled between the benches. The 
 iiorfemen always endeavour to place themfelves fronting the 
 bull, rather towards its left fide, when they can the better di- 
 ■re(Sl the lance which they have in their right hand. The next 
 day being a feftival, I faw another bull-fight, which was per- 
 formed in the fame manner, but the ten bulls were not fo quiet 
 v.'hen they croffed the amphitheatre before the combat began : 
 
 ♦ irritated
 
 SPAIN. 297 
 
 irritated by the noife of the muhitude, they wreaked their venge- 
 ance on the man who led the tame ox : they toiled him on 
 their horns from one to anotlier for feveral minutes : the fellow 
 however efcaped with life, but terribly wounded. Nine of the 
 bulls went at laft into the ftable, but the tenth attacking the 
 horfemen, was difpatched in the ufual way by all the combat- 
 ants fucceflively. The bulls fometimes halt, and fmell at the 
 blood which flows on the ground j and often when they have 
 advanced half way in their career, they flop fhort, and furvey 
 the man on horfeback calmly, whereupon they feem to collect 
 courage, and then their fury redoubles. Sometimes the horfe 
 and the bull are both feen {landing on their hind legs, leaning 
 againft each other, the cavalier's fpear being in the bull's neck ; 
 but as til's animal is the heavieft of the two, its weight always 
 preponderates, fo that the horfe has no means of efcaping but 
 by flight, and the bull is fo fwift in purfuing, that it will follow 
 a horfe on full gallop three or four times round the area without 
 lofing ground, and with its horns touching the horfe's buttocks. 
 I obferved that almofl; all the male fpedators fmoked fegars 
 during the whole time; they carried flints, fteels, and a kind 
 of tinder, called j'f/f^, which confifts of white filaments of a cer- 
 tain plant, to light their tobacco with *. 
 
 * Many Spaniards fmoke tobacco fhred fine and wrapt up in a fmall 
 piece of paper, which they light : this method of fmolcing they call 
 •*' chupar tabaca en papd." 
 
 C^q I after-
 
 298 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 I afterwards faw a bull-fight in Cadiz. The advertlfement* 
 which was put into my hands concerning, it runs thus : 
 
 « Twelfth and laft CorrUo (Courfe) this year. 
 
 ** Punctual account of the bulls which are to be courfed in the- 
 *' plaza (amphitheatre), of the very noble and loyal city of Cadiz, 
 " on Sunday the agthof Auguft, 1773, in the afternoon. 
 
 " Being deputies and perpetual governors, 
 
 Don N.N. and Don N. N. 
 
 " The ten bulls are the following : Six from the town of Al- 
 *' cala, bred by Don N. N. diftinguiflied by a fcarlet device. Three 
 ** from Chiclana, bred by Don N. N. with a white device. One 
 " h^W p ar a juguete, for a play-thing." 
 
 The names of the /'/c^^ijrf'j-, mat adores., 3.nd vanden/krosy are 
 then fpecified, and as a poftfcript, 
 
 «' To augment the diverfion, the picador N.N. is to fight a 
 " bull on horfeback with darts, without a lance; he is then to 
 " combat on foot, and afterwards kill it with the broad-fword. 
 " The laft bull is to have wooden knobs on its horns ; the valiant 
 " negro N. N. is to fight with it, and give pleafure to the 
 " public by his great valour and dexterity." 
 
 In Mr. Clarke's book are fome conje(3ures about the origin 
 of thefe fpeftacles, to which I refer *. According to the Spauilli . 
 hiftorians the firft bull-fight was exhibit in Spain in the year 1 1 00. . 
 
 * *' — • — No corro fanguineo o ledo amante 
 
 " Vendo a formofa daraa defcjada, *' O touro
 
 SPAIN. 2gg 
 
 On the 27th of July, I hired a fingle-horfe chalfe, and in 
 three hours arrived at Xerez, which is two leagues from Port 
 St. Mary. The road is fandy, and continues gradually rifing, 
 fo that from the eminence on which Xerez is fituated, I beheld 
 a fine profpe£t over olive-grounds, intermixed with cottages 
 white-wa{hed, with a diftant view of the bay of Cadiz. Xerez 
 is a pretty large town, and is the mart for the wine known in 
 England by the name of fherry : twenty thoufand butts of this 
 wine are annually exported ; the price upon an average is fifty 
 dollars per butt. I entered the town through a double Moorifh 
 gate, over which is an Arabic infcription. The ftreets are in 
 general broad, but not paved. The great fquare has on one fide 
 a portico of twenty-two arches. Several noble families refide 
 here. I waited on Mr. John Brickdale, who is the only Englifh 
 wine-merchant in this town : that gentleman was fo obliging as 
 to give me a letter to the fuperior of the celebrated Carthufian' 
 convent, which is a league diftant from Xerez. On my arrival 
 at this convent, which was between twelve and one, all the 
 
 " O touro bufca & pondofe diante, 
 
 " Salta, corre, fibila, acena & brada : 
 
 «' Mas o animal atroce nefle inftante, 
 
 " Com a fronte cornigera incHnada, 
 
 " Bramando duro corre, &: os olhos cerra 
 
 " Derriba, fere, mata & poem por terra." 
 
 Os Lufiadas, canto i. v. 88- 
 The joyful lover feeing his beautiful and defired lady, feeks for the bull 
 in the bloody circus ; he places himfelf before it, he leaps, runs, vvhlftlcs, 
 makes fisns, and fhouts ; but the ferocious animal, in that inftant incliri- 
 inu; its horned front, runs loudly bellowing, with its eyes' fliu'-, overturns, 
 wounds, kills, and throws to the ground. 
 
 Q^q 2 holy
 
 3CO TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 holy fathers who inhabit it were afleep ; and, as 1 would not 
 difturb their repofe, and had no inclination to wait, I left it 
 without having entered into it. On the gate is an infcription, 
 purporting, that it was built by Andres de Ribera (a private citi- 
 zen of Cadiz), in I 57 J. I then walked over a bridge of eight 
 arches, which is in fuch a ruinous condition, that people in 
 carriages prefer fording the riv^er, which at that time was fhal- 
 low, and proceeding three leagues, arrived at el Puerto Real, 
 where I took a boat, and in an hour landed at la Yfla. We 
 pafled by la Carraca, a fmall village, near which ten men-of- 
 war were anchored, two of which were of eighty- four guns, and 
 eight others broken up, being unfit for fervice. 
 
 At la Yfla, I faw a fmall elephant of feven feet high, which 
 was juft arrived from the Philippine iflands, and was intended 
 as a prefent for the king. The next morning I returned in a 
 chaife to Cadiz. 
 
 On the third of Auguft I fet out for Sevilla, failing in the af- 
 ternoon acrofs the bay to Port St. Mary, and there hired a one- 
 horfe chaife to carry me to that capital. 
 
 Auguft 4. I paffed the night in Xerez : I there faw the body- 
 of a peafant who had juft been ftabbed, placed on a bier in the- 
 ftreet, with a box to receive alms for maflTes to be celebrated for ■ 
 the good of his foul, and to defray the expences of his burial. 
 
 Auguft^
 
 SPAIN. 301 
 
 Auguft 5. I fet out by moon-light, at three in the morning, 
 and after travelling five leagues, of which the firft was fandy, 
 but the others perfedtly fine and level, among olive-trees and 
 vineyards, refted at Lebrija. In the afternoon I proceeded fix 
 leagues farther, and pafled the night in a venta. The road is 
 quite flat, and not a houfe of any kind is feen between Lebrija 
 and this venta. We had now approached the river Guadalquivir, 
 on which many veflels were failing : we faw feveral covies of 
 partridges, and numerous flights of lapwings. 
 
 This afternoon we met a drove of ten bulls, which v;ere to 
 fight at Port St. Mary's. Three pkadores., armed with lances, 
 followed them ; they environed the chaife, which put us under 
 great apprehenfions, but happily they were quiet, and pafled on. 
 We faw them coming at a diftance, but there was neither houfe 
 nor tree to retreat to. 
 
 Augufl: 6. We fet out early in the morning, and after travel- 
 ling four fliort leagues arrived at Sevilla, where 1 put up at the- 
 Crofs of Malta: this inn is kept by an Italian, and is the bell 
 in Spain. 
 
 Sevilla is the largefl: city in the kingdom, and is fituated in 
 37'^ 25' latitude, in the middle of a plain, as level as any part 
 of Holland. The river Guadalquivir divides it into two unequal 
 parts ; that onthefouth-fide is called Triana: thefe parts are join- 
 ed together by a mean and fliabby bridge, confifliing of planks laid 
 
 Dili
 
 302 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 on ten "boats, forming the fegment of a circle, according as the 
 tide runs. The city is nearly circular, fomething more than a 
 mile and a half in diameter, and contains upwards of one hun- 
 dred and twenty-thoufand inhabitants, though formerly it con- 
 tained more than twice that number. A plan of this city was 
 publilhed in 1771, in four large fheets. 
 
 The Spanifh proverb, " ^uien no ha vijio Sevilla^ no ha vijio 
 " maravilla,'^ is well known. This city is thought to have 
 been founded by the Phoenicians, who called it Hifpalis, from 
 whence the whole kingdom is called Hefperia : it is en- 
 vironed by an embattled wall, and has fifteen gates ; it con- 
 tains twenty-eight parifh churches, thirty-nine convents for 
 men, and thirty-two nunneries, which have each a church ; 
 fourteen hofpitals, and fix colleges. The river Guadalquivir 
 w^as anciently called Bsetis : its prefent name is Arabic, and fig- 
 nifies the Great River ; it rifes in New Caftile, and falls into 
 the ocean at San Lucar, after a courfe of feventeen leagues 
 from Sevilla. The author of Telemachus gives a pleafmg de- 
 fcription of this river, in the eighth book of that work, begin- 
 ning, " Lejleuve Bet is coule dans un pais fertile^ & fous un del 
 *' douxt qui eji toujoursferein, &c." This river is neither broad 
 nor rapid, but very deep. There were at the time I was there 
 fourteen Dutch vefTels, of two or three hundred tons burthen, 
 lying near the bridge, waiting for their cargoes of wool : which 
 is a vf ry dangerous commodity, for if proper care be not taken 
 to air it frequently, by opening the hatches of the veffel, it 
 
 takes
 
 Spain; jot 
 
 takes fire; a Dutch veflel was by this means burnt down to the 
 water's edge a fhort thne before my arrival : this happened in 
 the river, fo that the crew faved their lives, but if fuch an acci- 
 dent fhould happen at fea, the confequence is evident. 
 
 All the ftreets in Sevilla are narrow, crooked, and badly pav- 
 ed : the houfes are very high, which makes the ftreets fhady, 
 and much cooler than they would otherwife be. There are 
 more palaces, and other confpicuous buildings here, than in any 
 other Spanifh city. Three or four Englifh merchants refide in 
 it, but moft of the commerce is removed to Cadiz ; fo that we 
 have no conful here. The exchange, which formerly ferved 
 for the merchants to affemble in, is at prefent fhut up, grafs- 
 grows within it as there does in the exchange at Antwerp.. 
 This at Sevilla, which is called la Lonja, is the handfomeft 
 building here ; its archited: was Alonfo Berruguete : it is of the' 
 Tufcan order, of brick plaiftered over, and forms a fquare of 
 one hundred and eighty feet, two ftories in height, eleven win- 
 dows in breadth, and three doors to each fide ; the principal 
 ftair-cafe is very magnificent, a baluftrade furrounds the top.- 
 Near to this edifice is fituated the cathedral, which is the largeft 
 Gothic building in Spain, or perhaps in Europe : the roof is 
 fuftained by forty odtangular columns, which form five naves i 
 each of thefe columns is fixteen feet in diameter. The church, 
 as well as the exchange, is environed by pieces of broken co- 
 lumns of granite and porphyry, linked to each other by chains 
 to keep carriages off : a flight of fevenfteps likewife encompaflTes 
 
 thefe-'
 
 304 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 thefe edifices. San Fernando is buried in the cathedral, and alfo 
 the fon of Chrifxopher Columbus: on his grave-ftone is engra- 
 ven, a Sevilla y Leon nucbo mondo ci'j Colon ; that is, Colum- 
 bus gave a new world to Sevilla and Leon. I know not where 
 Columbus himfelf was interred. At one end of the church is 
 the famous Torre de la GiraUa^ or Tower of the Weathercock : 
 it is three hundred and fifty feet in height, and exadly fquare, 
 each fide being fifty feet in breadth : the materials are ftone to 
 fix feet from the ground, and all the rell are brick. At the 
 height of two hundred and thirty feet, a fmaller tower rifes from 
 it : the whole is crowned with a weather-cock, reprefenting 
 Faith under the figure of a woman, with a palm branch in one 
 hand, and a flag in the other : this figure is fourteen feet in 
 height. Near the middle of the little tower is painted round it, 
 turris fortijjima nomen domini, one of which words is on each fide. 
 The tower was built in the year looo, as far as the belfrey, 
 by Geber, one of the Moorifh kings. The bells are five-and- 
 twenty in number ; the largeft weighs one hundred and twenty- 
 five quintals. In 1560 it was beautified, and built to the height 
 it now is. I purchafed a very large print of this curious fabric. 
 I afcended it by thirty-fix flopes, without fteps ; fo that a horfe 
 can go up to the top, from whence there is a very fine profped:. 
 This is not the only tower which is fo conftru<Sled in the infide. 
 I afcended St. Mark's tower, or Campanile, in Venice, which is 
 three hundred and thirty-feven feet high, on thirty-feven of 
 the like flopes ; and the fteeple of the church of St. Barbara, 
 in Mantua, on twenty- five flopes. The town-houfe at Geneva 
 
 is
 
 SPAIN. 305 
 
 is acceffible as far as the fourth ftory even in coaches, as the 
 turnings are very broad, and paved. 
 
 The amphitheatre for the bull-fights is the largeft; in Spain, 
 the inner area being two hundred and forty feet in diameter : 
 in 1740 it was begun to be built of ftone; thirty-five arches, or 
 about one third of it, were finifhed, when a Hop was put to 
 the building with that material, which was found too expenfive, 
 and it was completed in wood, in which ftate it now remains : 
 under the boxes are eight rows of covered gradines, or feats, and 
 nine of uncovered. Thefe amphitheatres ferve fometimes for 
 the exhibitions oijuegos de canas^ which are a kind of tourna- 
 ments, wherein knights on horfeback caft reeds at each other in- 
 ftead of lances. 
 
 The theatre confifls of three rows of boxes, twenty in each 
 row. I was there one evening : the adtors were fo extremely bad, 
 that I could not get any perfon to accompany me thither, fo that 
 I foon quitted it, and repaired to the alameda, or mall, which is 
 about three furlongs in length; five rows of trees divide it into 
 four fliady walks, or alleys : it ie embellifhed with fix foun- 
 tains and feveral ftone benches, and fmall canals of v/ater run at 
 the foot of each row of trees. At one end are two very high 
 columns of granite, taken from a temple of Hercules which 
 cxifted here in times of very remote antiquity ; on the top of one 
 is placed a ftatue of Hercules, and on the other one of Julius 
 •Csfar. At the other endof the mall are two modern columns, with 
 
 R r a lion
 
 3o6 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 a Hon on the top of each. Between the hours of fix and eight 
 in the evening the Spanifh ladies refort hither in their carriages, 
 and from ten to midnight they return hither again to walk, efpe- 
 cially on Sundays, attended by their cortejos. 
 
 The royal tobacco fabric is fituated juft without the walls : it 
 was built in 1757, wholly of white ftone, during the reign of the 
 late king Ferdinand VI. It is a fquare of feven hundred and forty 
 feet, and of two ftories in height : the chief front has twenty- 
 nine windows in breadth, the back front twenty-five, and each, 
 of the two fides twenty-four : fifteen hundred men are conftant- 
 ly employed in the manufadlure of fegars and fnufF, and one 
 hundred and ninety horfes alternately turn eighty mills for the 
 fame purpofe. The whole fabric coft thirty-feven millions of 
 reals, about four hundred and twelve thoufand pounds. I was in- 
 formed that the neat revenue, cleared annually for the king, 
 amounts to a million fterling : it is the only fabric in the whole 
 kingdom. There is but one door by which it can be entered, to . 
 prevent the labourers from fmuggling the tobacco, which feme 
 of them neverthelefs found means to do, by a very uncommon 
 method, which was difcovered by their being obliged to be cur- 
 ed of the inflammation which happened to the part where they. 
 had concealed it. They are always fearched when they go home in 
 the evening. The firft days they come to work the volatile parts , 
 of the tobacco and fnuff affedt them fo as to caufe them to ftagger 
 and reel as if they were intoxicated : I could only remain a few 
 minutes among the fnufF-mills, and even then with a handker-- 
 
 ehief applied to my mouth and nofe. 
 
 Nearr
 
 S P A I -N. 307 
 
 Near this place, without the walls, and not far from the 
 river, is the royal college of Sant' Elmo, where one hundred and 
 fixty boys are inflrudted in navigation, &c. 
 
 The hofpital de la Sangre, for fick women, is alfo worthy of 
 notice, on account of its iize, having no lefs than thirty-three 
 windows in front : it is not yet finifhed, though it was begun half 
 a century ago. 
 
 The alcazar, or palace of the ancient kings, was built partly 
 by the Moors, and partly by Don Pedro the Cruel. Several of 
 the rooms have their walls covered with Arabic infcriptions ; 
 Tnoft of the ceilings are gilt ; the Hoors are of fmall bits of 
 marble, inlaid in various figures, in the fame manner as the 
 pavement of St. Mark's church in Venice : it is at prefent inha- 
 bited by EI Seiior Don Pablo de Olavide, inteodant general of 
 Andalusia, at whofe table I frequently had the honour of din- 
 ing : this gentleman is one of the richeft Spanifh fubjeds, and lives 
 with the fplendor of a prince. The modern part of this palace 
 has the plus ultra inferted in every room, together with the Im- 
 perial Eagle. This was done during the reign of Charles V. 
 who was as fond and vain of this motto as the gouty nobleman 
 reprefented in one of Hogarth's prints was of coronets, which he 
 even caufed to be engraven on his crutches. There is a large 
 garden behind the palace, planted with groves of orange and 
 lemon trees, and embellifhed with fountains and terraces : its 
 proprietor generoufly leaves it open to the public. 
 
 R r 2 Being
 
 3o3 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 Being informed that the mint of Sevilla contained nothing but 
 what is found in all others, I did not go to fee it. 
 
 After having viewed the public edifices I went in fearch of 
 pidures : Murillo, Velafquez, and dc Valdes, three of the beft 
 Spanifh painters, were born in or near Sevilla, fo that I expected 
 to find many of their pidures here, and I was not difappointed. 
 I firft waited on Don Francifco de Bruna, to whom I brought an. 
 introdudory letter : that gentleman began by fhowing me his 
 own coUeftion of pictures, among which the following are 
 worthy of notice; 
 
 A piiSture reprefenting the Adoration of the Three Kings, who 
 are painted as large as the life, together with Jofeph, la Virgen, el 
 NinOi and a fervant : the child is in fwaddling-clothes : the back- 
 ground is obfcure, and the fhadows are very ftrong, fomewhat 
 in the manner of Guldo, This pidture is one of Velafquez's 
 beft pieces; 
 
 An original portrait of Quevedo, with fpedlacles, by the fame^ 
 Velafquez. A fine engraving, by Carmona, of this pidure is 
 inferted in the fourth volume of the Spanifh ParnafTus. 
 
 Four fmall pieces by Teniers. 
 
 Two fmall Flemifh landfcapes. 
 
 Four corred drawings of the battles of Alexander : the figures- 
 are about four inches in fize. 
 
 A book in folio, with drawings, by Murillo, de Valdes, and, 
 Cornells Schut, done about the year 1680. 
 
 Ill;
 
 SPAIN. J09' 
 
 In the midft of this gentleman's library I obferved a table 
 made of a fingle plank of caoba, which is a fort of red wood 
 refcmbling mahogany, brought from the Weft Indies, fixteen 
 jfeet and a half long, and a yard broad. 
 
 la the palace of the duke of Alcala, which is commonly called 
 Pilate's Houfe, as it is faid to be built like that v/hich Pilate in- 
 habited, I faw a very fine pldure by Leonard da Vinci, repre- 
 senting the Virgin Mary ftanding between Jofeph and John, and 
 holding the child, who ftands on a table. The figures are 
 whole lengths, and about four feet in proportion. At each of 
 ike four corners of the court-yard is placed a gigantic marble- 
 ftatue of Ceres, Pallas, &c. and under the porticos which fur- 
 round it, are bufts of the Csefars, probably of Italian antico-mo- 
 demy workmanfhip.- 
 
 In the church of San Felipe Neri, I faw a pteta, by Van 
 Dyke : the figures are as large as the life, and whole lengths. 
 
 In the church of la Caridad are, 
 
 Two large pi£tures called the Triumph of the Crofs, rcpre- 
 fcnting fkeletons, deaths' heads, crowns, crofles, &c. by Juan 
 de Valdes : thefe are efteemed to be his beft works. 
 
 Eight very large pidures, in which the figures are all whole- 
 lengths, and of the natural fize, by Murillo. They reprefent 
 
 Lot and his three guefts. 
 
 INIofes fi:riking the rock. 
 
 A.fainfc.
 
 -lo TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 o 
 
 A Saint called San Juan de Dios, carrying a poor fick man on 
 his back, an angel affifts him, and lightens his burthen. 
 
 Saint Ifabel, queen of Hungary, picking the fcabs off the head 
 of a leper. This picture is fo naturally painted that it caufes 
 
 ilifguft. 
 
 The miraculous multiplication of five loaves and as many 
 fiflies. 
 
 St. Peter delivered out of prifon by an angel. 
 
 Chrifl: healing a fick man. 
 
 The return of the Prodir!:al Son. 
 
 Befides thefe, Murillo painted two fmall pieces, one repre- 
 fenting the Annunciation, and the other the Virgin and Child, 
 Avhich are likewife preferved here. 
 
 In the church of St. Angel, I faw a pidure by Rubens, re- 
 prefenting Chrift fitting on the clouds, at the right hand of the 
 Father, vvhofe feet reft on a globe, fupported by three flying 
 Cupids, which perhaps were intended for cherubims. At the 
 bottom corners of this pi<3:ure are St. John and St. Peter. All 
 thefe figures are whole lengths, and nearly as large as the life. 
 
 In the Carthufian convent, are three fmall pidures by Albert 
 Durer. 
 
 In the chapel of the Noviciado church are eleven fmall pic- 
 tures by Tintoretto. 
 
 Befides thefe, Murillo painted the following pieces which I 
 did not fee, by reafon that fome are never uncovered but on par- 
 ticular
 
 SPAIN. 311 
 
 ticular days of the year, and that In the convents where I went 
 to fee them, the friars were either afleep, or fo lazy that they 
 would not give themfelves the trouble of fhewing them to me. 
 
 In the Capuchin convent, fixteen pidures over the altars in 
 the church. 
 
 In Santa Maria la Blanca, two. 
 
 In St. Auguftin, that over the great altar, one over another- 
 altar, and one in the facrifty. 
 
 In St. Francifco, all the paintings in the fmall cloifterj, 
 eleven in number.. 
 
 In los Venerables, the Conception and St. Peter, and feveral 
 in the refectory. 
 
 Six in the cathedral, which are placed In fuch a bad light, 
 that they can hardly be perceived. 
 
 The other churches contain pictures, which are too tedious to 
 mention, by fecond-rate painters, fuch as Pedro Campaiia, 
 Luis de Vargas, Francifco Zurbaran, Francifo Herrera el Viejo, 
 Alonfo Cano, Francifco Pacheco, Pablo de Cefpede, Pablo 
 Roelas, Pedro Villegas, Bafco Pereira, Francifco Varela, Mo- 
 rales, Alonfo Vafquez, Antonio Mohedano, Juan deValdes, and 
 Martin de Vos. And in the archbifhop's palace are a few by 
 il Calabrefe. 
 
 I made an excurfion of about a kague and a half on the other 
 fide of the river, to fee the ruins of the amphitheatre of the 
 
 ancient:
 
 312 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 cixjnt Italicum, called Old Sevilla at prefent : it is fituated be- 
 tween two hills, and is of an oval form, whofe longeft inner 
 diameter is two hundred and thirty-fix feet, and its fhorteft one 
 hundred and fifty-two : fome of the arches yet remain ; they 
 are built of red bricks, each about a foot fquare, the reft is com- 
 pofed of final 1 irregular ftones and pebbles, with as much mor- 
 tcr as ftone. By the ruins may be difcovered, that it had anci- 
 ently two chief entrances, oppofite to each other in the longeft 
 diameter, fourteen vomitoria., or entrances to the feat=, or gra- 
 dines, of which fourteen rows are ftill to be diftinguiftied. Ema- 
 nuel Martini mentions this amphitheatre in the firft epiftle of 
 the eighth book of his work, which was cited in the dcfcrip- 
 tion of the amphitheatre of Saguntum. 
 
 On my return I obferved many ftorks nefts on the church of 
 St. Ifidoro, and various fields planted with liquorice, the roots of 
 which grow here to a very great fize. 
 
 During my ftay in Sevilla, I had the plcafure of being fre- 
 ■quently with Don Antonio de UUoa, who is well known in 
 England by his defcription of America, which is the beft mo- 
 dern account of a voyage that has ever been publiftied in the 
 Spanifh language *. He informed me, that in the library of 
 the king of Denmark, at Copenhagen, he fiiw the beft colledion 
 •of Span ifli books that is to be met with out of Spain, and that 
 
 * It is tranflated into Englifh, in two octavo volumes. 
 
 all
 
 SPAIN. 3,3 
 
 all the editions of the various Spanifli authors are the repreferv- 
 cd. His brother Don Martin de Ulloa likewife refided in Se- 
 villa. They aflurcd me, that four leagues from this city is a 
 fmall tower called la "Torre de ^atro Abitas^ which may be 
 fliaken by a perfon who afcends it, to uich a degree as to fpill li- 
 quids out of a glafs ; and that all along the coafls of Spain are 
 watch-towers, from mile to mile, with lights and guards at 
 night ; fo that from Cadiz to Barcelona, and from Bilbao to 
 Ferrol, the whole kingdom may by thefe means be fucceffiveiy 
 alarmed in cafe of an invafion. 
 
 I cannot conclude my account of Sevilla, without mentioning 
 my particular obligations to the governor the Marquis de Arco- 
 Hermofo, and to the beautiful and accompliflied marchionefs de 
 Malefpina, at whofc houfes I fpent my evenings in balls and 
 mufical parties. 
 
 Having fuiliciently gratified my curiofity in this city, and 
 fearing left too long a ftay might attach me too much to it, I 
 TBlu^Lantly parted from my acquaintances, and on the 19th of 
 Auguft, at five in the morning, embarked in a four- oared boat, 
 which 1 had hired to carry me to San Lucar, which is feventeen 
 leagues, on the river Guadalquivir : the banks on both fides are 
 quite flat, fo that it appeared as if we were failing on a Dutch 
 canal. We met two large Dutch (hips Vvfliich were going to 
 Sevilla for wool. The river was covered with water-fowl of va- 
 trious fpecies, and the fliores with lapwings, and innumerable 
 
 S s flocks
 
 314 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 flocks of buftards, from four to twenty together : I fired at leve- 
 ral of thefe birds, but, as the fhot was too fmall, it only wound- 
 ed them {lightly. I obferved alfo two or three kingfifhers ho- 
 vering about the banks. I had filled my boracho with wine, and 
 took pcovifions from Sevilla. I pafled the night on a bench in 
 the boat, and the next morning at five landed at San Lucar de 
 Barrameda, a fmall town at the head of the bay, into which the 
 river, now grown confiderably wider, difcharges itfelf. I wait- 
 ed on his majefly's conful, Wyndham Beawes, efq. This gen- 
 tleman is author of the Lex Mercatoria Rediviva., which was 
 publifhed fome years ago, and intends to publifh a hiftorical ac- 
 count of Spain, in three folio volumes : he was fo kind as to 
 fliew me part of the firft volume, which is already printed; it 
 contains Diflertations on Solomon, on Tyre, on Cadiz, being the 
 land of Ophir, &c. He informed me, that three leagues from 
 San Lucar is a fmall tower, which was loofened from its founda- 
 tion by the earthquake in 1755, and thrown bottom upwards, 
 in which pofition it now ftands. 
 
 I here hired a fingle-horfe chaife, which in five hours brought 
 me to Port St. Mary. The diftance is five leagues, and the road 
 is very fandy and heavy. Here I procured a paflage in a boat, 
 and after an hour and a half's failing landed in Cadiz. 
 
 About half-way acrofs the bay is a fand-bank, which is very 
 dangerous in bad weather ; when the Spaniards fail over it, they 
 take off their hats, and tiy a Pater nofter and an Ave Maria for 
 
 thfr
 
 SPAIN. 315 
 
 the fouls of the pafTengers who have perifhed on that bank, and 
 the mafter of the boat makes a colledion of a few cop- 
 per pieces, to pay for the mafles to be celebrated to deliver 
 thofe fouls from purgatory. They have a fimilar cuftom 
 in France, when criminals are executed : I faw a man broke alive 
 on the wheel at Bourdeaux, and juft before the executioner per- 
 formed his part, the fpedators prayed bare-headed. 
 
 On Sunday the 22d of Auguft, 1 faw another bull-fight at 
 Port St. Mary, 
 
 The next day I waited on the marquis de la Caiiada, a gentle- 
 man of Irifh extraction ; his furname is Tyrry : he poflefles a 
 large and well-chofen library ; among the books which compofe 
 it, are moft of our Englilh authors, ancient and modern. 
 
 Among his colle£tion of pictures are the following : 
 
 The original fmall fketch, by Murillo, of the pidlure which 
 he painted in the Capuchin church at Cadiz, 
 
 A fmall Madonna, Child, and St. John, by Murillo, copied 
 from that which is in the royal colledion in Paris : there are two 
 different engravings of this pidure. 
 
 An original piece by Oftade, boors fmoking, of which the 
 print is likewife engraven. 
 
 Two more fmall pidures, by Oftade. A fmall pidure by 
 Mieris. 
 
 A Madonna by Cornelis Koet : and a Sea-piece. 
 
 S s 2 I alfo
 
 3i6 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 I alfo faw here a mzrhXc farcophcigus found at Medina Sldonia : 
 it is eight feet in length, and three in height and breadth ; its 
 lides are in baffo relievo. 
 
 An urn of marble, found in the port of Cadiz foon after the 
 earthquake in 1755. 
 
 A fmall bronze ftatue of Neptune, found in the ruins of the 
 temple of Hercules in Cadiz, in 1639, 
 
 A fmall Venus of marble. 
 
 All thefe are engraven in the feventh volume of count Caylus's 
 Antiquities. Father Florez, in his Efpana Sagrada, and an old 
 book, de las Antiguedades del Reyno de Sevilla, both mention this 
 
 farcophagus. 
 
 On the 24th of Auguft I returned again to Cadiz. 
 
 Augufl: 25. I rode on horfeback to la Yfla, and dined there- 
 at the houfe of admiral Don Andres Reggio : this gentleman is a 
 Sicilian, knight of the orders of Malta and St. January, and 
 brother to the governor of Carthagena before mentioned. In the 
 afternoon the admiral was fo obliging as to order his fixteen- 
 oared flialoop to convey me to el Puerto Real, where I faw a 
 loa, or farce, reprefented in the theatre, which has no roof, 
 and was only covered with a fail. At fun-fet the Ave Maria bell 
 tolled, upon which the adlors fufpended their fpeeches; and 
 they, as well as the audience, who rofe from their feats, recited . 
 a fhort prayer, and then fell to fpouting again. 
 
 The
 
 SPAIN. 317 
 
 The next day I examined the admiral's pidurcs, which are 
 depniiled in ahoufe he has here, but found none worthy of ob- 
 fervation, except one reprefenting the Madonna, Child, and 
 St. John, nearly as large as the life, faid to be by Titian, which 
 is not improbable, as it Is a very fine piece ; and fixteen pidures 
 of fowls and fiflies, by one Felix Celi, which are painted in a 
 peculiar ftyle. 
 
 Soon after leaving this houfe, I took boat and landed at la 
 Carraca, where I faw the armoury and arfenal, containing (as I 
 was told) fufficient arms and ammunition to equip forty men of 
 war. This village is a place of banifliment for criminals : about 
 four hundred of thefe wretches work here, with chains about 
 their legs and waifts.. 
 
 I then returned to laYfla, and had again the honour of din- 
 ing with the admiral, and a great number of ofHcers : fome of 
 thefe accompanied me to the academy of las giiardias marinas, 
 the marine guards, where one hundred and fixty young noble- 
 men are educated at the king's expence : they are taught navi- 
 gation, aftronomy, mathematics, arithmetic, drawing, fencing,, 
 dancing, and the Englifh and French languages. This academy 
 was inllituted in 1717, and contains feveral models and fedlions 
 of fhips, globes, and other apparatus neceflary for teach- 
 ing the fciences mentioned.. In the evening I rode back, 
 to Cadiz.. 
 
 Ihi
 
 3iS TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 In the account of the Travels of MefTieurs Van Egmont and 
 Heyman, publifhed in 1759, it appears that they landed in 
 Cadiz, while on their voyage to Ccnftantinople : they fay, 
 " The exchange at Cadiz is only a ftreet adjoining to the market, 
 " called Calle Nueva, but it is a very difagreeable place to 
 *' ftand in, and generally very dirty. There is likewife no 
 *' fettled hour for bufinefs, and on thefe accounts the moft emi- 
 " nent merchants are rather to be found in their counting- 
 " houfes than on the exchange :" which is the cafe at prefent. 
 
 On Sunday the ^^Qth of Auguft, I faw a bull-fight in Cadiz : 
 one of the bulls, which would not fight, was abandoned to the 
 dogs, who pinned his nofe to the ground fo immoveably, that 
 the t?iatador put an end to its life without the leaft danger to 
 himfelf. 
 
 September i. 1 went in a coach, which the Spaniards call 
 galera, drawn by four mules to la Ylla, where I again dined 
 at the admiral's houfe : he had juft received two fhells, of 
 the oyfter kind, from the Philippine iilands ; I meafured them, 
 and found the longeft diameter of each to be three feet five inches 
 and a quarter, and their fhortefl; two feet and an inch, Englifh 
 meafure. I fa'-v in the anatomy chamber at Leyden, in Hol- 
 land, two fliells, the largeft of which is two feet eight inches in 
 its longeft diameter, and twenty inches in its fhorteft; it weighs 
 one hundred and fifty pounds. In the evening, having taken 
 leave of my acquaintances in la Yfla, 1 returned to Cadiz. 
 
 I pur-
 
 SPAIN. 319 
 
 I purchafed four live cameleons *, two of which I killed and 
 preferved in fpirits of wine, the other two I brought with me 
 to England alive, where they died : the largeft was near a foot 
 in length, including the tail In vol. vii. p. i <; ? , & feq. 
 of the Hiftory of Animated Nature, is an accurate defcription 
 of this animal. It is produced from an egg, and has two claws 
 Handing forward, and two others backwards to each foot : its 
 creeping motion, when on level ground, is very flow. I preferv- 
 ed mine on a fmall tree, on which they would fit motionlefs for 
 days together. I every day opened their mouths and fed them 
 with eight or ten flies each, v^hich they took a long time to 
 fwallow, and at laft they died of hunger, as I could not procure 
 any more flies 1 attempted to feed them with worms, fpiders, 
 &c. which they conftantly rejeded : the tongue is very thick 
 and long : the animal is as helplefs and defencelefs as a toad. 
 Since my return to England I procured two toads, in order to 
 obferve their method of feeding, which they did out of my hand, 
 wherein I held fome maggots, which had engendered in rotten 
 meat : the toads darted out their tongues, with a motion as ra- 
 pid as the f:/er of of a jack, fo that the eye could fcarcely fol- 
 low them, and fwallowed the maggot which adhered to the 
 glutinous part of the tongue. In the Appendix to the third 
 volume of the Britifh Zoology, Mr. Pennant has inferted a par- 
 ticular account of the t».?.d, in which he fully proves that thofe 
 reptiles are perfectly Innoxious. But to return to the cameleon,. 
 
 '^ Lacerta Chamseleon. Linn. Syft. Nat,. 364, 
 
 it
 
 ;20 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 it can blow itfelf up and contract itfelf, by a method fimllar to 
 that in pigeons, whofe crops are fometimes greatly diftendcd 
 with air. The cameleon is very cold to the touch ; the fkin re- 
 fembles fhagreen, but very foft, becaufe every one of the little 
 protuberances v/hich compofe it, of about the fize of a pin's 
 headj is as fmooth as if it were polifhed : its colour is generally 
 of a whitifh green, rather yellow underneath the belly : in 
 climbing, the animal ufes its tail as well as its legs, and pro- 
 ceeds with the utmcft caution, fearful of falling ; the tail is 
 twifted round a bough, and never loofened till all the fett have 
 got a fecure hold. It fometimes defcended from the tree on 
 Avhlch I kept it ; in order to efFe£tuate this, it hung fufpcnded 
 by its tail to the extremity of the lowell branch, and from 
 thence let itfelf gently fall to the ground. It changes its colour 
 at pleafure, into various hues of white, yellow, blue, and green ; 
 fometimes it appears black, with bright yellow fpots. The 
 conftrudion of the eyes is very remarkable, " they are very 
 *' little, though they Hand out of the head j they have a fingle 
 *' eye-lid like a cap with a hole in the middle, through which the 
 " pupil appears, which is of a fhining brown, and round it is a 
 ■*' little circle of a gold colour, juft like that round a toad's eye: 
 *' the animal often moves one eye when the other is entirely at 
 
 « 
 
 *' reft, nay fometimes one eye will look forward while the other 
 **■ looks backward, and one will look upwards v.'hile the 
 ** other regards the earth :" the fockets of the eyes move as if 
 they were placed on pivots *. 
 
 * Sir John Maundevile fays, he was in an ifland where he faw " many 
 
 " carnics
 
 SPAIN. 321 
 
 I now agreed with the captahi of an Englifh veflel that he 
 •^ould admit myfelf and fervant as paffengers : the veflel was 
 deftined to London. The few days before my departure I fpent 
 in getting informations concerning things which 1 was defirous 
 of knowing before I quitted the kingdom, the refult of which I 
 fhall here place together. 
 
 I purchafed (cvtrdX ftiake-Jloties^ piedras deferpiente, and have 
 had the honour of prefenting one of them, together with a cir- 
 cumftantial account, to the Royal Society in London : they are 
 made of burnt hartfhorn, in oval pieces, about the fize of a 
 fhilling, and half an inch thick ; on being applied to wounds 
 caufed by the bite of a ferpent, or other venomous animal, they 
 adhere to them, and imbibe the poifon, after which they fall 
 off; being then put into milk or wine, they difcharge the venom 
 
 " camles that is a lytille beft as a goot, tha"t is wylde, and he lyvethe be the 
 " eyr, and etethe nought ne drynkethe nought at no tyme. And he 
 " chaungethe his colour often tyme : for men ktn him often fcithes, no*/ 
 *' in o colour and now in another colour ; and he may chaunge him into 
 " alle manner of coloures that him lift, faf only into red and white." 
 
 In the Italian edition, printed in 1480, the above paflage is as follows : 
 
 *' in qucito pacfc fcno moiti camaiioni M tjiiaU fono pJcGlii amoj 
 " tjo cljc chpcrotiis" faiuatici c \3an0 tutaliia con in 0o!!a apcrfn per 
 *' prcnticrc Jairc ipcco tljt t^Vi biucno foliamcntc tjc laprc c non 
 " niajjcno nc Scucno akuna coiTa cii cam&iano coHoro fpcfic fiatc 
 " pccclic akuna fiaic fc Ijciscno tc ano mWatz c iina altrn bolta be 
 " uno altco clli fc pciVono murarc be ogni coliO!;c tt^t tjcffliono 
 " fiaiuo c9^ in raito nc in biancljo" 
 
 T t they
 
 322 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 they had attracted, and are applied anew as long as they will" 
 ftick to the part affeded, and in the end, as it is faid, efFedl a^ 
 cure : they are fold at about a {hilling a-piece. 
 
 After the account of Cintra (p. 21.), I omitted to mention, 
 that the adjacent rocks produce the plant known by the name of 
 fly-plant. I fuppofe it to be the Ophrys inJeBifera^ Linn. Sp. 
 PL 1343. probably either the variety marked t, or that mark- 
 ed ^. See the firft Breynii centuria plant, tab/ xl v. fig. 2. 
 
 In moft parts of Spain crickets are kept in fmall wire cages, 
 placed on the window ledges : they are each ip a feparate cage, 
 with a bit of fallad, and keep continually chirping. I bought a 
 vafe of a kind of earthen ware, of a fingular conftrudion ; it 
 confifts of two bottles joined together by the bellies, and a 
 handle; on the top of one is an uncouth human figure, and on 
 the other is a kind of fpout, which is a whiftle at the fame 
 time : this vafe was brought from Peru. A figure of one, fimi- 
 lar to it, is engraven in the fecond volume of the Spanifli edition . 
 of Ulloa's Hiftory of America. 
 
 The elaftlc gum, or caoutchouc^ is common both here and at' 
 Lifbon. In the Memoirs of the Royal Academy of Sciences at 
 Paris, for the years 1763 and 17^)8, are copious accounts of 
 this refin, which is fince become well known in England. The 
 following extrafts from thofe Memoirs will fuffice to explain its 
 nature. " This refin, as it is called, has been brought from dif-- 
 
 " ferent .
 
 S P A I N. 323 
 
 '" ferent parts of South America and Afia. Mr. de la Conda- 
 " mine, in the relation of his voyage down the river of Amazons, 
 " firft entered into fome detail concerning its origin, and the 
 *' manner in which the Indians colledt it, and form it by means 
 " of earthen moulds into various Ihapes. From his, and other 
 " accounts, it appears that it is a milky exudation, or a kind of 
 " natural emulfion, flowing from incifions made in a certain 
 " tree : while in this liquid flate, it receives from them the par- 
 " ticular form intended to be given to it. The liquor foon dries, 
 " and acquires a folid confiftence ; manifefting, at the fame time, 
 " a moft extraordinary degree of flexibility and elafticity." Its 
 colour is a deep brown, fomewhat tranfparent : a ring made of 
 it to fit the finger, may with eafe be extended fo as to be drawn 
 over the hand and arm, and on being flipped off, will inflantly 
 return to its former dimenfions*. It is very efficacious in rub- 
 bing out lines made by a leaden-pencil, for which ufe much of 
 it is fold in London. In the (hops at Liflaon it is to be met with 
 in many grotefque figures of birds, beafts, &c. and is there 
 called boracho. The above-mentioned Memoirs, continue thus : 
 " Its chemical properties are not lefs extraordinary, as this in- 
 ■** tradable fubfl:ance had hitherto refilled every attempt that 
 " had been made to reduce it to its orginal fluid fl:ate : it was In- 
 ■" diflbluble in water, fpirits of wine, oils, and camphire, but 
 *' was at laft difliblved in vitriolic sether. The ufes to which this 
 ** difcovery is applicable appear to be various. The folidity, 
 
 * Priapi, et machine annuli SiiicnfiuiTi di£l,e, ex hic reHna coiificiiintur. 
 
 T t 2 " flexibility.
 
 324 TRAVELS THROUGH' 
 
 " flexibility, and elafticlty of iht caoutchouc, and its property of 
 •* not being afFedted by aqueous, fpirituous, faline, oily, or other 
 " common folvents, renders it a proper and valuable matter for 
 " the conllrudion of tubes, catheters, and various other inftru- 
 *• ments in which thefe properties are wanted, &c." For a far- 
 ther account I refer to the Memoirs, and to the Monthly Reviews 
 for September 1767, vol. xxxvii. and the Appendix to the 
 forty-fixth volume, publifhed in June 1772. 
 
 In moft parts of Spain, but efpecially in Cadiz, are fold vafes 
 made of a kind of white earth : thefe at night are filled with 
 water, and a veflel placed under them, into which the next 
 morning the water will have filtrated through thofe vafes per- 
 fedxly purified. This earth is called barro : another kind of the 
 fame name, but of a red colour, is brought from Mexico : the 
 Spaniards put pieces of it among their fnuff, which it prcr 
 ferves cool, giving it the fmell offrefn earth, which odour is. 
 likewife communicated to water put into jars of this material. 
 
 In 1492, the firft comedy was a£led ; and, in 1546, the firft 
 coach was made ufe of in Spain. 
 
 I was one evening much furprifed at feeing a lady, with 
 whom I had the day before been in company, when flie was ■ 
 drefled in the height of coquetry, make her appearance in a 
 nun's black habit, with a leathern thong, to which hung knotted 
 cords, round her waift. She told me flie had made a vow to wear 
 
 thati
 
 SPAIN. 325 
 
 tHat habit for fix months, by way of penance, infllfted volun- 
 tarily on herfelf for fome fins fhe faid fhe had committed. On 
 enquiry of one of her female friends, I found that it was only 
 becaufe her hufband had forbid his houfe to her cortejo * ; fo that 
 the poor lady thus publicly teflified her forrow for her fwain's 
 difcharge. Other ladies, in the like difconfolate fituation, fome- 
 times make a vow not to go to a play or an aflembly for fix 
 months, or a year, according to the degree of their difappoint- 
 Hient ; but they always attribute thefe vows to fome religious 
 motive, fuch as the recovery from a fit of ficknefs, or from any 
 dangerous accident : elderly ladies have been known to make 
 fuch raili vows for the remainder of their lives, renouncing the 
 follies and vanities of the world, becaufe the world renounced 
 them, and which vows they have always ftridlly kept, becaufe 
 no man thought it worth his while to tempt them to break them. 
 Many Spaniards of both fexes leave orders that they fhall after 
 death be carried to the grave in the habit of fome religious.; 
 order : 
 
 " and to be fure of Paradife, 
 
 Dying put on the weeds of Dominic, 
 Or in Francifcaa think to pafs difguis'd." 
 
 Parad, Loft, book iii.. 
 
 Many of the images and ftatues oi fantos 2S\A fantasy male 
 and female faints, which are placed againft the walls of the cor- 
 
 * To exprefs myfslf in ihe words of a celebrated French aftronomer, " he 
 ♦' did not like that his-wife, her cortejo^ and himfelf, fhould form an cquila- 
 " teial triangle." 
 
 nerr
 
 326 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 ner houfes of the flreets throughout the cities in Spain, have 
 parafols & paroplu'us placed over their heads, which defend 
 them from the fun and rain. A fimilar fafe-guard is granted to 
 the ftone and wooden faints in the ftreets of Padua in Italy. It 
 may not be improper here to admire the complaifance of the 
 Venetians, who have, by their own authority, canonized feveral 
 gentlemen, who have not been created faints by any other na- 
 tion, witnefs St. Mofes, St. Job, St. Samuel, St. David, St. Je- 
 remiah, and St. Zachariah, each of which perfonages has a 
 church in Venice dedicated to him. 
 
 The bull of the crufade is fold all over Spain ; every individual 
 is obliged to buy one annually, without which no one can 
 either be married, confeffed, or buried : the price for common 
 people is about fix pence; for illujlres or private perfons fixteen 
 reals, about three (hillings and feven pence ; the nobility pay 
 wdut they pleafe above that fum. This brings in a neat revenue 
 to the king of twenty-four millions of reals annually, or 
 about two hundred and fixty-feven thoufand pounds. I pur- 
 chafed one for myfelf : it is vilely printed, partly in Gothic 
 charadters, and in the Spanlfli language, on a fheet of very 
 coarfe paper. 
 
 The purport of it is as follows : 
 
 " 1773- 
 " Summary of the graces, indulgences, and faculties, that our 
 
 *' moft holy father pope Clement XIII. of happy memory, has 
 
 .*' deigned
 
 SPAIN. 327 
 
 "'^ deigned to concede by the bull of the holy crufade to our lord 
 " the king, and to thoie faithful, who being in his king- 
 " dom of Spain, or other dominions of his Catholic majelly, 
 " help and ferve him in his wars againfl: the infidels for the 
 " year 1773. 
 
 " Our moft holy father having confidered of what import- 
 " tance it is to the Catholic religion, that the faithful fhoiild 
 ** aflift our lord the Catholic king, in the war which he con- 
 ** tinually maintains againfl the enemies of our holy faith, 
 " to defend and propagate it ; and that they would concur' 
 *• the more gladly and chearfully to fuch a laudable andi 
 ** pious work, if they might thereby obtain fpiritual re- 
 *' wards, his holinefs has condefcended to difpenfe the fol- 
 " lowing indulgences and graces with a liberal hand, &c. 
 « &c. ' ■ 
 
 " Firft, To the king our lord, and to every faithful Chriflian 
 ** who moved by faith, fnall fight againfl: the infidels at his own 
 ** expence, the fame indulgences are granted as to thofe who go 
 ** to the conquefl: of the Holy Land ; and the fame to thofe who 
 ** fend another perfon at their expence. The foldiers occupied 
 « in the faid war are excufed by his holinefs from votive fafts, 
 " and they are permitted to employ themfelves in war even 
 " on feftivals, 
 
 " Item, To thofe who contribute alms towards the feid expe- 
 " dition, his holinefs gives permiffion to have mafl'es celebrated, 
 *' to receive the facraments, or to be chriftened, married, and. 
 
 " buried.
 
 328 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 " buried (provided they do not die excommunicated), an hour 
 •" before fun-rife, and an houf after noon, during the whole 
 *' year, except on Eafter-day. 
 
 *' Item, They may by the advice of their t .vo phyficians, 
 " fpiritual and corporal, eat meat, even in Lent, and eggs and 
 " milk whenever they pleafe, of their own authority. 
 
 '^ However, during Lent, patriarchs, archbifhops, bifhops, 
 " and prelates, are not allowed to eat eggs or milk, if they are 
 " under fixty years of age. 
 
 " Item, They may obtain a plenary remiflion of all 
 " their fins, once during their life, and again in the article 
 *' of death. 
 
 " A perfon who takes this iu// twice in the fame year, en- 
 "joys all thefe indulgences, graces and privileges twice 
 " over, &c. &c. See 
 
 It concludes thus : " And whereas you Don R. T. have 
 " contributed the alms of twenty-one quartos (fix pence), which 
 " is the tax impofed by virtue of apoftolical authority, arid 
 *' that you have received this hi// written in your name, and 
 *' which you are to preferve, we declare that we grant to 
 " you, and that you may ufe and enjoy all the aforefaid graces, 
 " &c. during this year." 
 
 Underneath this is printed, " days on which a foul is drawn 
 " out of purgatorjr, 
 
 4» Septuagint
 
 SPAIN. 329 
 
 "*' + Septuagint Sunday. 
 
 " + The Tuefday after the firft Sunday in Lent. 
 
 " + The Saturday after the fecond Sunday in Lent. 
 
 *• + The third and fourth Sundays in Lent. 
 
 " -f The Friday and Saturday after the fifth Sunday in Lent. 
 
 *' + The Wednefday of the o£lave of Eafter. 
 
 " + The Thurfday and Saturday of the odave of Whit- 
 *' funtide." 
 
 Thefe are the ten days which were before mentioned in the 
 account of Madrid. 
 
 Capers are produced in many parts of Spain : they are the 
 buds of the fhrub called al^aparro^ gathered before they expand, 
 dried in the fhade, and afterwards pickled for ufe. Sponges are 
 thrown up by the fea on mofi: of the Spanifh coafts. 
 
 The method of raifmg water from the wells in the gardens, 
 is by the Perfian wheel ; it is ufed all over Portugal, Spain, and 
 the Levant. A v/heel of five feet, or more, in diameter, is 
 placed vertically over the well, fuftained by an axis fixed on 
 wooden ports ; to this wheel is faftened a band, which reaches 
 a foot or tvv'o below the furface of the water, a great number of 
 earthen pitchers, each 'holding three or four pints, are fixed to 
 this band by the neck, their mouths all turned the fame way, a 
 horizontal wheel is fo fixed, that its pinions may fall in cxadly 
 with the cogs, or pins of the vertical one: on the top of th<; 
 axis of the horizontal wheel is a pole, at the extremity of 
 
 U u which
 
 330 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 which another pole is inferted perpendicularly, and to this an ox^,, 
 an afs, or a horfe is failened, which turns the engine round : as 
 the pitchers come to the top they empty themfelvcs into a ftone 
 trough, from whence the water is conveyed by a canal into a 
 ciftern, which ftands high enough for it to run freely to all parts 
 of the garden. The water lies fome hours in the ciftern expof- 
 ed to the rays of the fun, by which the chilnefs is removed, 
 which would be very prejudicial to the tender plants. The fore- 
 going defcription is partly extradled from the Hiftory of M'morcciy^ 
 in which ifland the like engines are ufed. 
 
 The eaftern method of treading out the corn is ftill ufed by 
 the Portuguefe and Spaniards. Homer has defcribed it in the, 
 twentieth book of the Iliad, 
 
 •' As with autumnal harvefts cover'd o'er, 
 
 " And thick beftrown, lies Ceres' facred floor 
 
 " When round and round, with never weary'd pain, . 
 
 " The trampling fteers beat out th' unnumber'd grain. 
 
 Pope.. 
 
 Inftead of fteers, mares are ufed in thefe kingdoms for that pur- 
 pofe, from ten to twenty at a time. Hand-mills, or querns, are 
 common in Spain. Mr. Pennant, in his Tour in Scotland, 
 p. 2 1 J , quarto edition, has defcribed one which he faw in that 
 country: and in his Voyage to the Hebrides, p. 286, has ia- • 
 ferted a plate reprefenting two women at work at the j'^/rr;?. 
 
 The,
 
 SPAIN. 22^ 
 
 The habits of the Spanifh gentry of both fexes, arc entirely 
 in the French faflilon : the Macaroni ladles in Cadiz wear yellow 
 powder in their hair, which to me appeared naufeous and unbe- 
 coming : they ufe neither paint nor patches. When women 
 have occafion to walk the ftreets in Spain, they are covered 
 with a black filk veil, and are then ftyled tapadas.^ i. e. ihut up; 
 in this difguife they much refemble one another, which is very 
 convenient for intriguing. In the plate of the aquedudl of Se- 
 govia inferted in this work, are the figures of a Spanifh tnajo 
 and maja, or man and woman, in an undrefs ; and likewife the 
 reprefentation of a carriage, to which fix mules are put by 
 long traces. 
 
 There are a great number of billiard-tables in Cadiz, as well 
 as in moft of the capital cities in Spain, and likewife many 
 trucost which are a peculiar kind of billiard tables, with twenty 
 pockets, played on with very large balls, which are to pafs 
 through an iron arch fixed in a certain part of the table. — Horfe- 
 fhoes are beaten into the fiiape required, when the iron is 
 cold, which makes them laft much longer than they v/ould 
 otherwife do. 
 
 The beggars who fwarm in every part of thefe kingdoms are 
 as infufFerably troublefome as they are in Italy : I have frequent- 
 ly been interrupted while converfing with acquaintances in the 
 ftreets, by the vile paw of a difgufling old woman familiarly 
 placed on my arm, and on turning to look at the objed: have 
 
 U u 2 ftarted
 
 332 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 ftarted with horror at the fliocking rpedacle : thefe wretches 
 even infolently intrude themfelves into churches and cofFee- 
 houfcs, and expofe their cadaverous and rotten limbs clofe under, 
 the nofe of the affrighted fpeQator. 
 
 At all the fairs which I faw in Spain, I obferved in the booths 
 horns made of clay, painted, and of various dimenfions ; they 
 are purchafed, and prefented by way of raillery to jealous, 
 hufbands, &c. 
 
 In feveral houfes In the fea-port towns in Spain, I obferved 
 paintings of the different coloured races of beings, which are 
 produced by the Spaniards intermixing with the Indians in Ame- 
 rica, and under the paintings were infcribed the names of thofe 
 races. I caufed the infcriptions which are under fixteen pidures 
 I faw in Malaga to be copied ; they are as follows, though they 
 may appear fomewhat unintelligible, and it will be very difficult 
 to prove the truth of what is therein advanced. The terminations 
 in a are feminine, thofe in o mafcuUne... 
 
 1. From a Spanifh man and an Indian woman proceeds a. 
 
 Meftizo, or a Mefliza. 
 
 2. From a Spaniard and a Meftiza, a Cafliza. 
 
 3. From a Spaniard and a Caftiza, a Efpanola. 
 
 4. From an Efpanola and an Indio, a Meftindio* 
 
 5. From a Meflindio and a Caftiza, a Coyota. 
 
 6. From an Indio and a Cpyota, a Harnizo, . 
 
 7.,Froat
 
 SPAIN. 333 
 
 7.. From a Spanifh man and a Negro woman proceeds a Mulato. 
 
 8. From a Spaniard and a Mulata, a Morifco. 
 
 9. From a Morifco and a Spanifh woman, an Alvino. 
 
 10. From an Alvino and a Spanifh woman, the ifTue are per- 
 fe6t Negroes. 
 
 1.1. From a Negro and an Indian woman, a Lobo. 
 
 1.2. From an Indio and Loba, a Sambaigo, 
 
 13. From a Sambaigo and a Mulata, a Cambujo. 
 
 14. From a Cambujo and a Mulata, an AlbarafTado. 
 
 1 5. From an AlbarafTado and a Mulata, a Barzino. 
 
 16. From a Barzino and a Mulata, the ifTue is a Negro with. 
 
 fmooth hair. 
 
 This remarkable circumflance of the children of almofl white 
 parents, as fpeciiied in the tenth and fixteenth races being quite 
 black, was confirmed to me by Don Antonio de Ulloa at Sevilla, 
 but as I cannot pretend to demonflrate it, I leave it as I found it. 
 
 The fhort cloak formerly worn by the Spaniards is now laid 
 afide, as are alfo their fpe£lacles, rufTs, and long fwords, and 
 the only mark of their former gravity confifls in the deep brown, 
 colour of the habits of the common people. 
 
 Chocolate is the daily morning beverage of almofl all ranks 
 of Spaniards and Portuguefe. The ufual phrafe made ufe of 
 in the Spanifh language on parting with a perfon is, Vaya V. S, 
 con Dios, " May your worfhip go along with God," which is- 
 
 equivalent.
 
 334 TPvAVELS THROUGH 
 
 equivalent to our Farewell, or Adieu. For, " I thank you," the 
 Spaniards fay, " Fha V. S. mil anjs. " May your worfliip live a 
 *• thoufand years ;" to which the anfwer fometimes is, " Poi'o 
 " /ijds menos^ a little more or lefs." 
 
 Gold or filver coin, evenSpanifh, is not allowed to be brought 
 •into, or carried out of any of the cities of Spain, more efpecially 
 Cadiz, if it exceeds ten pounds, without paying four per cent, 
 duty to the king. The fhip in which I embarked brought one 
 hundred and fixty bags, each containing a thoufand hard dollars, 
 to England, which amounted to near thirty-fix thoufand pounds. 
 Thefe dollars were of filver, of the value of about four (hillings 
 and fix pence each, and chiefly coined in Mexico ; every bag 
 weighed fixty-one pounds and a half, and the freight was a 
 half per cent. 
 
 The packets, which fail ufually every week from Lifbon to 
 
 Falmouth, frequently bring as large a fum, in gold pieces of 
 
 thirty-fix (hillings, to England. There are no bank-notes in 
 thefe kingdoms. 
 
 The chief produdls of Spain are corn, wine, oil, fruits, 
 raifins*, honey, cork, and fait, which laft is fo abundant, that 
 
 ^ Raifins are of two forts ; thofe which are called fun raifins are made 
 thus : when \\m grapes are alrnoft ripe, the ftallc is cat half through, fo that 
 the fap mny not penetrate farther, but yet that the bunch of grapes may re- 
 main fufpended by the ftallc. The fun by darting on them candies them, 
 and when they are dry they are packed up in boxes. The fecond fort is 
 
 mad£
 
 SPAIN. 335 
 
 the kingdom of Murc'ia alone is able to fupply all Spain with 
 that commodity. In the province of Bifcay are a great number 
 of iron mines ; in Andalufia are many mines of lead ; and in 
 Murcia much fulphur is made. Marble quarries abound all 
 over the kingdom. The principal manufad;ures are of filk and 
 wool. Silk, which has been cultivated in Spain ever fmce the 
 year 1492, is chiefly produced in the kingdoms of Valencia 
 and Murcia ; and wool in the two Caftilcs. The other produc- 
 tions are hemp, flax, cotton, &c. much coral is fifhed out of the 
 fca near the mouth of the river Ebro. 
 
 Tunny are caught in fummer in great abundance near Conilj 
 on the Andalufian coaft. Thefe fifh are from feven to ten feet in 
 length, and weigh, about a hundred and a half. The duke of 
 Medina-Sidonia is proprietor of this fifliery, which brings him in 
 annually upwards of ten thoufand pounds. The fifh is eaten. 
 frelh and falted : it is exported to Italy, where it ferves for food 
 to the equipage of the gallies which cruife in the Mediterranean : . 
 this fifh is very firm and nourifliing, and much refembles veal. 
 
 The whole kingdom is over-run with French knife-grinders, 
 tinkers, and pedlars, who collect much money by exercifing 
 thefe mean trades, after which they return to their own country, , 
 
 made after the following manner : when the vines are pruned, the tendrils 
 are preferved till the time of vintage ; a great fire is then made, wherein thofc 
 tendrils are burnt, and in the lye made from thrir aflies, the newly gatheied 
 grapes are dipt, after which they are expofed to the fun to dry, which ren- 
 ders them fit for ufe. 
 
 leaving^;
 
 336 TRAVELS THROUGH 
 
 leaving the Spanilh dons weltering in their pride, lazinefs, 
 and milery. 
 
 All works intended to be printed in Spain muft undergo fuch 
 a number of revifals and corrections, and muft be licenfed by fo 
 many various tribunals, fuch as that of the inquifition, &c. that 
 it is enough to difcourage any attempts towards putting the Spa- 
 nifh literature on a better footing. 
 
 In the year 1764, the Inhabitants of the kingdom of Spain, 
 of the feven Canary iflands, of the ifland of Majorca, and of 
 the cities of Oran and Ceuta, on the African coaft, which include 
 all the Spanifh dominions in Europe and Africa, were number- 
 ed, and a printed lift of them publiflied, of which the following 
 is an extradt. 
 
 Cities, towns, and villages, 21221 
 
 Cathedrals - - 108 
 
 Monafteries - - 2052 containing 67777 monks. 
 
 Nunneries - - 1028 containing 34651 nuns. 
 
 Colleges - - 312 -p^j^i 7^^ ufeiefs beings. 
 
 Hofpitals - - 2008 
 
 9930 
 
 Vcntas 
 
 The number of fouls who are of age to receive the facraments is 
 fix millions three hundred and fifty thoufand one hundred and 
 ninety-fix, to which the afore -mentioned hundred and two thou- 
 iknd four hundred and twenty-eight drones being added, com- 
 
 pofe
 
 'S P A 1 -N. 33^ 
 
 ptife a total of fix millions four hundred and fifty-two thouiand 
 fix hundred and twenty-four adult perfons : if the children were 
 to be added, fuch an addition might probably double that num- 
 ber. Before the difcovery of America, in 1492, it is faid that 
 the population of Spain amounted to twenty millions, but that 
 difcovery drained the kingdom of almoft half its inhabitants, 
 and the remaining half wifely expelled a million of Moors out 
 of their country in the fame year, and another million in 1610 
 and 1612. In the time of Cxfar, hiftory affures us, that there 
 Avere no lefs than fifty millions of fouls in Spain. 
 
 On the 6th of September the captain of the vefl'el In which 
 I intended to embark, acquainting me that he defigned to fail 
 the next morning, I went on board in the evening. This fliip 
 was of one hundred and eighty tuns burthen, mounted with fe*- 
 veral guns, and navigated by fifteen men. The cargo, befides 
 the filver before mentioned, confifted of cochineal and indigo. 
 On the 7th in the morning we fet fail, and the next day 
 were out of fight of land. On the i ith we had, by eftimation, 
 paffed Cape St. Vincent, and by eafterly winds were driven as 
 far as eighteen degrees weft from London. We had fometimes 
 'ftrong gales, which made the fhip, though loaden, fail eight or 
 nine knots in an hour. On the 24th we faw a vaft number of 
 porpoifes playing about the fhip. The next day, on founding, 
 ground was found at eighty fathom. On the 27th, 
 
 ■*' As with a longing feaman's look I gaz'd," 
 
 X X I had
 
 358 TRAVELS- THROUGH 
 
 I had the pleafure of feeing land, which proved to be the Starfc 
 Point in Devonfhire The veflel was now environed with fhoal& 
 of millions of pilchards. At laft, on the 29th of September, 
 being the twenty-third day of our voyage, I landed at Dover at 
 four in the morning, perfedly fatisfied with this tour, which- 
 had proved more agreeable and inftruiftive to me than any other, 
 part of my travels, owing to the novelty of all the objeds in 
 kingdoms which are feldom vifited by travellers, and to the kind- 
 nefs of the Portuguefe and Spaniards in general, whofe cordial 
 and generous hofpitality demand all the acknowledgments and 
 thanks that are in my power to give. I fhall always retain the 
 greatefl efteem for the Spanifh nation in particular; and if, in 
 various parts of this work, I have inferted a few pleafantries about 
 their religion, I am certain that the candid Spaniards will join ia 
 the laugh, efpecially as the prejudices of their fore-fathers ara 
 daily lofmg ground, fo that it is not improbable that in procefs. 
 of time Spain may become a feat of toleration and literaturCi 
 equal to any other kingdom, and that it may be faid with Gon-r 
 zalo Argote de Molina. 
 
 " Levanta noble ESPANA, 
 
 " Tu coronada frente, 
 
 "^ Y alegrate de verte renafcida 
 
 " Por todo quanto bana, 
 
 " Entorno la corriente 
 
 '• Del uno y otro mar, con mejorvida." 
 
 APPENDIX.
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 F 
 
 N° I. 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 League*, 
 
 ROM Lisbon to Mafra and back, is - 15 
 
 to Cinfra and back - - 7|- 
 
 — w_ to St. 'Julian's and back. - - 7^ 
 
 From Lisbon to Oporto, by way oi Alcobaga. 
 
 A Ferry. 
 
 p,. n , cAlverca - - - 
 
 ■' tCaftanhera 
 
 Second day j^^'g^^^^ -" -" 1 
 
 Th' d d \^ venta _ - - 
 
 ^ l Alcoba^a - - - 
 
 _ lit Batalha - - - 
 
 Fourth day J ^^^^.^ 
 
 Fifth day Pombal _ _ _ 
 
 „. , J (Pondes - - - • 
 
 Sixth day Iq^jmbra 
 
 Seventh day Annolhada - - - 
 
 ' Sardon _ - - 
 -Eighth day ' Ferry over the Vouga. 
 
 lAlbergaria - - - 
 
 X X 2 
 
 Leagues, 
 
 or Hours. 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 h 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 4r 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 6^ 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 S 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 48 
 
 63
 
 340 A P P E N D I X. 
 
 Brought over 
 
 Leagues, 
 - 48 
 
 or Hour*. 
 63 
 
 Ninth day { f""'' f "^°^° 
 
 ^ I A venta - - 
 
 6 
 I 
 
 7t 
 2 
 
 Ferry over the Douro. 
 
 
 
 Tenth day Oporto - - 
 
 5 
 
 7f 
 
 
 60 
 
 80 
 
 From Oporto to ^meida.- 
 
 Ferry over the Douro. 
 
 p. n , f A venta - -. - 
 
 ^ * Sant' Antonio 
 
 {Albergaria - -. - 
 
 Ferry over the Vouga - -^ 
 
 Sardon - - -- 
 
 Third day Barilhe . - 
 
 Fourth day Cargal 
 
 T'fh (\ 5 A venta _ _ - 
 
 ^ I Vinhofa ; the worft road in Portugal 
 
 c- ..t, J jCelorko 
 bixth day 1 r> 1 
 
 ^ I Cavayal -- - — 
 
 o , J c A venta - -^ 
 
 beventhdayj ^, ■, 
 
 •' (-Almeida « -. -. 
 
 From Oporto to Salamanca.. 
 Enter Spain. 
 
 4 
 2 
 
 5' 
 
 4t 
 
 
 8 
 
 7i 
 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 I 
 
 7f 
 3 
 
 2 
 2. 
 
 5> 
 3f 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 6 
 
 38 65; 
 
 Firft day Obifpo - - - it 2. 
 
 Second day Ciudad-Rodrige - « ^ 6 '- 
 
 "6f It"
 
 APPENDIX; 341. 
 
 Brought over 
 A ventaj 
 
 A venta 
 
 Salamanca- 
 
 Fourth day | 
 
 Leagues, 
 
 6i- 
 
 or Hours. 
 
 8i 
 
 - 9 
 
 II 
 
 4^ 
 
 22i: 
 
 7t 
 
 26i. 
 
 From Salamanca to Valladolid. 
 :A venta 
 
 Fifth day { Valladolid 
 
 From Valladolid to Madrid through Segovia, 
 St. Ildefonfo, and the Efcorial. 
 
 T>- n J cValdeftillas - - 
 
 Second day ^g°^'|^^j^^^. J -"* - ' -" 
 
 Third day Segovia - -. - 
 
 Fourth day St. Ildefonfo ~ - - 
 
 Fifth day A venta - - - 
 
 _. , , cGuadarama 
 
 Sixth day } r^,,, Efcorial 
 
 Seventh day Madrid. - ^ - 
 
 6i 
 
 Second day Zamora - - - - 6 6 
 
 Third day 'Toro - - - 6 8 { 
 
 Fourth day Tordefllas — _ - 6 7 
 
 r Simancas " ~ ~ 3 4 
 
 2 4 
 
 ?o 36 
 
 l8 
 
 9i 
 
 .7 
 
 81- 
 
 5 
 
 r 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 3- 
 
 5 
 
 
 8f 
 
 6f 
 
 9 
 
 37i 
 
 5O'
 
 342 APPENDIX. 
 
 From Madrid to Aranjuez by way of Toledo. 
 
 Firftday l^^fl' 
 ' i Cabanas 
 
 Second day Toledo 
 Third day Aranjuez 
 
 From Aranjuez to Valencia. 
 
 o J J i Quintanar - - - 
 
 Second day j ^^^^^^^^ - - - 
 
 Third day {^f^^'^^^^"- 
 
 ■' iMinaya - - - 
 
 ^ .J rLaRoda _ _ _ 
 
 Fourth day {La Gineta 
 
 -r-ru J rAlbacete - - - 
 
 Fifth day |^.jj^^ 
 
 Sixth day \^i„^^^j^ . . 
 
 c *i,j cMoxent _ - - 
 
 Seventh day { ^^^ .^^^ ^^ ^^^ p^^^^^ 
 
 T-. , , , c Algemesi _ _ - 
 
 E^S^^^^^y {Valencia - - • 
 
 6if 80 
 From Valencia to Morviedro and back again is 8 leagues. 
 
 From 
 
 Leagues, 
 
 3^ 
 
 or Houi"s. 
 
 9v 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 8i 
 
 ^9 
 
 21 
 
 2 
 
 5T 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 5 
 
 5 
 6 
 
 3 
 4 
 
 4 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 37 
 
 3 
 5 
 
 3i 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 6r 
 
 4 
 
 5T 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 7
 
 APPENDIX. 343 
 
 Bronx Valencia to Carthagena, by way oi Alicante 
 
 and Murda. 
 
 League), orHourt, 
 
 ■c" aA ,r ^ Cullera . ^ - s y 
 
 Firftday Icandia - - - - 3 5^ 
 
 _ J, fLa Puebla - - - - 3 ^i 
 
 Second day {q^^^^j^^^^ - - - 3 -ft 
 
 rr-u- J J 5 A venta - - - 3 5 
 
 Third day J ^jlj^^^ > - - - 3 4f. 
 
 , , cMonforte - - - - 5 ^ 
 
 Fourth day ^ ^^^^^^^ - - - - 4 5t 
 
 T^-ri- J cElche _ « _ 4 4I. 
 
 Fifth day iorihuela - . . 5 7 
 
 Sixth day Murcm - - - 4 5^ 
 
 o .i,j r A venta - - - S 7 . 
 
 Seventhday}^^^^^^^^^^ - ' " Jl _!: 
 
 S' 75 
 
 From Carthagena to Granada. 
 
 _,. - , I Puente Alamo - - 4 5t 
 Eirftday {^^^^^^ . . .57- 
 
 _ J J \Lorca _ - - - - 4 5- 
 
 Second day I j^^^^^^^^g - - - - 3 4 
 
 „. . , , f Velez el Rubio - -57 
 
 Third day {(.j^j^.^^l - - - 3. 4 
 
 ^ , , rCuUar - - - 4 7- 
 
 Fourth day {^^^^ - - - 4 6' 
 
 •n-ri. J jxA venta - - - 4 6| 
 
 Fifth day }(.^^^^^:^ ^ . " _i Ji 
 
 39 5^1
 
 344 APPENDIX. 
 
 Leagues, or Hours. 
 
 "Brought over - - 39 56I- 
 
 „. , J cA venta - ^ ^ 3 ? 
 
 Smhday {jf^^u^^ - . . I ^. 
 
 Sevc«hday}^--^„, -. -. : }s^ 2 
 From Granada to Cordova. 
 
 Second day {^J^"J^^ "- I - I 4 7 
 
 Third day {^^r"*^"-^ - . - - 4 7 
 
 -, , , jLaCarlota - - - ^ ? 
 
 Fourth day JcoKoov A - - - } 7 
 
 ^ 
 
 .31 5* 
 
 From Cordova to Malaga. 
 
 Firft day To Ecija . - - - 8 la 
 
 Second day {^j;^^^^^^ '. '- -" 3^} 9^ 
 
 Third day Antequera - - - 6 9 
 
 Fourth day A verrta ~ - - 5 8 
 
 ^■ft"^y IX^ - - ^ 1 J 
 
 From Malaga to Cartama and back is 6 Leagues. 
 
 From
 
 APPENDIX. 345 
 From Malaga to Gibraltar by way of Rotida. 
 
 Leagues, orMoun. 
 
 Firft day Jr^Jo^i* " " ^ 5i- 
 
 •' t Uala Rabonela « - . 2 r 
 
 Second day \ r, ^? ~ " " ^ 5i 
 
 ■' ^ Konda - - - ^ ^ 
 
 Third day Alguzin - - , e ^qL 
 
 Fourth day \ ^^\ ^°^"^ 
 
 '' L Kjibr altar - - 
 
 Prom Gibraltar to Cadiz. 
 
 Firft day jSan Roque 
 ■' tJLos Barrios 
 
 r, ,1 ^ A venta 
 Second day ]y^.^^ 
 
 rr-i.- J J i Chiclana 
 Th.rd day J ^^ ^^^ ^^ ^^^^ 
 
 Fourth day Cadiz 
 
 From Cadiz to Sevilla. 
 
 Crofs the bay to Port St. Mary 
 Firft day Xerez - — 
 
 Second day •) ^r ~ • 
 
 •' I Venta 
 
 Third day Sevilla 
 
 6 II 
 I 2 
 
 23 46 1 
 
 I 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 3 
 
 71- 
 
 4f 
 
 3 
 2 
 
 61. 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 2i- 
 
 18 
 
 29 
 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 6 
 
 f 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 20 
 
 i9i: 
 
 
 From
 
 346 A P P E N D I X; 
 
 From Se VILLA to San Lucar, on the river Guadiilquivir, 135 
 17 leagues, which I failed in 20 hours. 
 
 From Sa7i Lucar to Port St. Mary, is 4 leagues, or 5 hours. . 
 
 With refpedt to the fhort excurfions which I made, the dif- 
 tances from the feveral towns are mentioned in the former 
 part of this work. 
 
 From Malaga to Vejel, by way of Gibraltar, the roads are 
 impaflable in carriages. 
 
 I have thought it neceflary to mention the number of hours I 
 employed in travelling from place to place, becaufe the leagues 
 being generally only computed diftances, convey no determined- 
 idea of the fpace from one place to another. The ufual rate of 
 travelling is from three and a half to five Englifh miles per hour, 
 according as the roads are mountainous or level. The total 
 number of leagues which I travelled from Lifbon till my arrival 
 in Cadiz (exclufive of the voyages crofs the Straits of Gibraltar), 
 is 578, in which I employed 800 hours, fo that thofe leagues ^ 
 probably amount to about three thoufand Englifh miles *. 
 
 • Mr. Clarke has inferted in his work the Itinerary from Bilbao to Ma-, 
 drid, and from thence to Lifbon : and Mr. Baretti has publiflied an Itinerary . 
 of the roads from Lifbon ta Madrid, and from thence to SaragofTa and Bar- . 
 celona, &c. &g. 
 
 S UMMARfY.
 
 A ^P P E N D I X. 347 
 
 N'' ir. 
 
 SUMMARY of the History of PORTUGAL. 
 
 A BOUT the year 714 of our sera, the Moors invaded 
 ^ ^ Portugal, and continued in poffefTion of the greateft part 
 of that kingdom till about the year 1072: during which pe- 
 riod the other part of Portugal was governed by a fucceflion of 
 twenty-five kings. In the year 1080, Count Don Henry made 
 himfelf mafter of moft of the territories then in fubje£tion to the 
 Moors, and reigned over the whole kingdom upwards of twen- 
 ty years, without ever accepting the title of king; fo that the 
 firft king was 
 
 Don Alfonfo I. born 1109 ; died 1 185 ; reigned 57 years : 
 he is buried in a convent in Coimbra. A Portuguefe account of 
 this king fays, " That God operates feveral prodigies by means 
 " of his body, as may be feen in the tenth feftion of the ylppu- 
 *■* rato WJiorico^ which was printed in Rome in 1728, for the 
 " beatification of that venerable king." Twenty-feven Elogies 
 are inferted in that work. 
 
 2. His fon, Don Sancho T. born 1154; died 121 1; reigned 
 26 years ; buried in Coimbra. 
 
 3. His fon, Don Alfonfo II. born 1185; died 1223; reign- 
 ed I 2 years ; buried in Alcoba-ca. 
 
 4. Don Sancho II. born 1202; died 124S. After hav- 
 --i«^ reigned nineteen years, he oppreffcd feveral ecclefiaftics, 
 
 Y y 2 who
 
 348 APPENDIX. 
 
 who complained to the pope (Innocent IV.) : the king received^ 
 admonitions from Rome, to which he paid no attention ; fo that 
 his holinefs dcpofed him in year the 1 242, placing his brother Don 
 Alfonfo on the throne in his Head. Don Sancho was obliged to 
 quit the kingdom, and take refuge in Toledo, where he died,, 
 and is buried. 
 
 5. His brother, Don Alfonfo III. born 12 10; died 1279 ; 
 rsigned 32 years ; interred in Alcobafa. 
 
 6. His fon, Don Denis; born 1261 ; died 1325; reigned 
 46 years ; buried in the convent of Odivelas. 
 
 7. His fon, Don Alfonfo IV. born 1291 ; died 1357; reign- 
 ed 32 years; buried in Lifbon. This king caufed the beautiful 
 Dona Ignez de Caflro to be barbaroufly murdered in 1355, be- 
 caufe fhe had clandeflinely efpoufed his fon Don Pedro. One of 
 the heft tragedies in the Portuguefe language is founded on this 
 flory ; and a French author, named Lamotte, has imitated it *. 
 
 8. Don Peter 1. born 1320; died 1367; reigned 10 years; 
 buried in Alcobafa, clofe by his fpoufe Dona Ignez. He was 
 called the Cruel, becaufe, notwithflanding he had fworn to his 
 father that he would forgive the murderers of Dona Ignez, yet 
 he caufed two of them to be put to death, tearing out their 
 hearts from their breafts, and afterwards burning them. He 
 had the meannefs to ftrike one of- thefe wretches on the face 
 vi'hilll he was under thefe tortures. The king then caufed the fkele- 
 ton of Dona Ignez to be taken out of its fepulchre, to be in- 
 verted with the royal habits, and the crown to be placed on its 
 
 * There is a Spanifh tragedy on the fame fubject, written in 1577. 
 
 hecdj
 
 APPENDIX. 34P 
 
 head; he ordered the Portuguefe to acknowledge their queen in 
 tiiofe infenfible remains. The hem of its garments was then 
 kifled by the nobility ; and that novel and lingular ceremony 
 was the caufe of its being faid, that Dona Igncz reigned after 
 having lived, and that Ihe arofe out of the tomb to mount the 
 throne. In the tragedy above mentioned, fhe likewife is placed 
 on the throne after her death. 
 
 9. His fon, Don Ferdinand, born 1345; died 1383; reign-^ 
 ed 17 years ; buried in Santarem. 
 
 10. His brother, Don John I. born 1357 ; died of the plague 
 in 1433 : reigned 48 years; buried in Batalha. 
 
 In 1415, the cityofCeuta, in Barbary, was conquered by 
 the Portuguefe navy, which confifted of 220 fail (probably y2z//i), 
 commanded by the king in perfon. 
 
 In 1420, the Madeira iflands were difcovered by Gon9alvez 
 Vaco and Triftas Vaz. 
 
 11. His third fon, Don Edward, born 1391; died of the 
 plague in 1438 ; reigned 5 years ; buried in Batalha. 
 
 12. His fon, Don Alfonfo V. born 1432 ; died 148 1 ; reign- 
 ed 43 years ; buried in Batalha. 
 
 13. His fon, Don John II. born 1455; died 1495; reign- 
 ed 14 years; buried in Batalha. The Portuguefe account fays, 
 *' that his body remains ftill uncorrupted ; which, according to 
 " fome perfons is a fign of its being predeftinated." 
 
 In 1492, he refufed the offers of Chriftopher Columbus, who 
 
 in the fame year difcovered the new world for king Ferdinand 
 
 and queen Ifabel of Spain. 
 
 14. Doa.
 
 350 APPENDIX. 
 
 14. Don Emanuel, duke of Beja, and grandfon to king 
 Edward, born 1469; died 1521; reigned 26 years; buried 
 in Bellein. 
 
 In i497> Vafquez de Gama was fent by this king to continue 
 the difcoveries made in the Indies. He returned to Portugal after 
 two years abfence, having landed atMozambique and Calicut, and 
 puQied his navigation almofl as far as Goa. The following 
 year the king, after having rewarded de Gama, fent a new fleet 
 to the Indies, under the command of Peter Capral, who, after 
 four-and-twenty days failing, landed in the Brafils, from whence 
 he continued his route, and made an alliance with the kings of 
 Cochin and of Cananor. In 1502, Don Emanuel went in per- 
 fon in pilgrimage to Santiago de Compoftella, from a principle 
 of devotion. 
 
 15. His fon, Don John Iir. born 1502; died 1557; reign- 
 ed 35 years; buried in Bellem. The moft memorable adtion 
 that I find recorded of this monarch is, that as he knew that 
 Saint Thomas preached and died in the Eaft Indies, he ordered 
 the viceroy to make enquiries concerning the place of his fepul- 
 ture, and concerning the particulars of his life. The famous 
 Don John de Caftro lived during this reign : his life, written in 
 the Portuguefe language, by Jacinto Freyre de Andrada, is much 
 efteemed. The inquifition was eftablifhed in Portugal about 
 this time. 
 
 In 1553, Alvarez Cabral returned to Goa, having on board 
 the celebrated Don Lewis de Camoens, who, in his Liifiadast 
 ■has fung the conquefls of the Portuguefe in the Indies. 
 
 In
 
 APPENDIX. 351 
 
 In 1 53 I, aa earthquake deftroyed almoft the whole city of 
 liifbon ; and, it is faid, that thirty thoufand inhabitants perifhed . 
 among the ruins. 
 
 16. His grandfon, Don Sebaftian, born 1554; died fight- 
 ing againft the Moors near Tangier in Africa, in 1578, having 
 reigned ever fince the age of three years. For a fable about this 
 prince, fee le Voyageur Francois, vol. xv. p. 259. 
 
 17. Don Henry, cardinal, fon to king Emanuel, and uncle 
 to the late king, born 15 12; died 1580; reigned about a year 
 and a half: he is interred at Bellem. The Portuguefe account 
 of his death fays, *' he died in Almeirim. There was a great 
 " lunar eclipfe the fame night, and an univerfal forrow, becaufe 
 *' every body perceived that the whole kingdom was alfo eclipfed 
 "by that death. In the )' ear 1682, his body was tranfported 
 " from Almeirim to Bellem, and a noble monument ereded 
 " over it by order of king Peter II. By this means his body was 
 " feen entire after having been buried 102 years, fo that w^e 
 " have reafon from thence to believe that it enjoys beatitude." 
 
 In the fame year Don Philip II. of Caftile, took pofleflion by 
 force of the kingdom of Portugal : he died and was buried in 
 J598inthe Efcorial, which he had founded, having lived 71 
 years, of which he had reigned 43 in all in Spain, and 18 in: 
 Portugal *. 
 
 * In 1583, the celebrated Don Ferdinand de Toledo, duke of Alba, died 
 in Lifbon. In 1588, the fleet known by the name of the Invincible Arma- 
 da, was fent againft England : part of it periHied by tempefts, and part was 
 taken by admiral Sir Francis Drake, fo that Spain loft by that expedition a 
 hundred veffels, about one hundred and twenty-five thoufand men, and near 
 two millions flerling.
 
 552 APPENDIX. 
 
 10. His Ion, Don Philip III. fucceeded him (PhiHp II. of Por- 
 tugal) ; he died in 162 1, after having reigned 22 years; he is 
 buried in the ILfcorial. 
 
 The tvvenrieth king of Portugal was Don Philip IV. (HI.) fon 
 of the preceding monarch. His viceroy was maffacred in 1640, 
 and Don John, eighth duke of Bragan9a, was proclaimed 
 
 2 I. King of Portugal, by the name of Don John IV. he was 
 bora in 1604, and died in 1656, after a reign of almoft 16 years : 
 "he is interred in the convent of S. Vincentede Fora, inLifbon*. 
 
 Thus the Portuguefe fliook off the Spanifh yoke, which they 
 liad borne for fixty years. 
 
 22. His fon, Alfonfo VI. born 1643; died 16S3; reigned 
 II years; buried in Bellem. This king, who was of a very 
 •weak underftanding, was depofed in 1667, and his brother, the 
 Infante Don Pedro, placed on the throne in his ftead as regent. 
 
 Alfonfo's queen accufed her hulband of impotence, upon 
 "which flie was divorced, and her marriage declared to be null : 
 fhe, without quitting the title of queen, married the regent (her 
 brother-in-law) by means of a difpenfation from cardinal de Ven- 
 dome, legate a latere in France, and the pope confirmed that dif- 
 penfation by a brief. 
 
 * The manner in which the count-dukc of Olivares announced to Phi- 
 lip the IV. the lofs of Portugal, fhows how kings are flattered in their mif- 
 fortiines, and how truths, which are unpleafing, are hidden from them. " I 
 *' come, faid he, to acquaint you with a happy piece of news : your ma- 
 " jefty has gained all the fortune of the duke of Braganca ; he has thought 
 " proper to caufe hiaiL-If to be proclaimed king, and by his crime his eftatcs 
 *' are confifcated to your majefly." 
 
 la
 
 APPENDIX. 35g 
 
 In 1668, a treaty of peace was concluded between Spain and 
 Portugal : the court of Madrid acknowledged Portugal to be free 
 and independent, and cut off from her coat of arms that of the 
 crown of Portugal. Spain retained only Ceuta, v/hich city 
 had not followed the revolution in 1640. Thus finiflied a 
 bloody war, which had lafled twenty-fix years. After the 
 death of Alfonfo VI. which happened in 1683, the *egent was 
 proclaimed 
 
 23. King, by the title of Don Peter II. He was born 
 in 1648, and died in 1706, after a reign of 38 years: 
 he is buried in the convent of St. Vincente de Fora, in 
 Lifbon. 
 
 24. He was fucceeded by his fon, Don John V. born 1 689 : he 
 •died in 1750, after having reigned near 44 years, and was buri- 
 ed near his father. He was regretted by his fubjeds, whom he 
 had rendered happy by his wife and prudent government, and 
 by his generous and patriotic virtues. In 1748, pope Benedi£l 
 XIV. granted the title oifdeUJJimo (mod faithful) to him and 
 to his fucceflbrs. 
 
 25. His prefent majefty, Don Jofeph fucceeded his father in 
 1750: he was born in 1714. In 1755, an earthquake nearly 
 deftroyed Lifbon. In 1758, a blunderbufs was difcharged at his 
 majefty as he was returning to his palace at Bellem by night, and 
 the following year the delinquents were executed near the fpot. 
 In 1762, the Spaniards and the French invaded Portugal, 
 but peace was ftiortly after concluded between the three 
 
 Z z kingdoms.
 
 354 A P P E N D I X. 
 
 kingdoms. His majefty, in J 729, efpoufed Dona Maria, prin-- 
 cefs of Afturias, daughter to Philip V. of Spain *. 
 
 The Portuguefe hiftory, from which moftofthefc particulars, 
 ■were extraiSled, concludes thus, *' From the time that he has 
 *' mounted the throne and handled the fceptre, he has fl:iewn» 
 *' not only by the rnajefty of his perfon, and the clemency of 
 " his genius> but by the generofity of his a£tions, that in hinx 
 *' is re-produced into lively exiftence the magnanimous heart of 
 ** his memorable fMher; and every Portuguefe heart will be a. 
 *' fhield to the life and glory of our auguft monarch, who 
 *♦ in military campaigns will terrtfy the the moft diftant climate8.^ 
 *♦ of the univerfe with the echo of his valour." ! 
 
 * An account of the prefent royal family is given in p. 11, of this work^. 
 
 SUMMARY^
 
 APPENDIX. 355 
 
 N° III. 
 rsUMMARY of the History of SPAIN. 
 
 TH E Phoenicians about 240 years before the vulgar seraj 
 called the Carthaginians into Spain : thefe were conquer- 
 ed by the Romans, who were in their turn vanquifhed by the 
 ■Goths. Their firft king, Ataulfo, died by the year 42 r . To 
 him fucceeded thirty-two other kings; and during the reign of 
 the thirty-fourth king, Rodrigo, in 712, the Saracens and 
 Moors, to the number of twenty-four thoufand, invaded An- 
 dalusia, put the king to flight, and conquered Algeziras, Sevilla, 
 Cordova, and many other cities. They afterwards made them- 
 felves mafters of the greateft part of the kingdom, and pufhed 
 their conquefls to the Gothic Gaul. In the year 718, great 
 numbers of Chriftian Gotltf and Spaniards, who had taken 
 refuge among the mountains of the Afturias and Bifcay, finding 
 their enemies employed at fuch a diftance, chofe Pelayo for their 
 chief: he gained feveral victories over the Moors, and in 737 died., 
 after having reigned in the northern provinces of Spain •'■. He was 
 fucceeded by his fon Favila, who was killed the following year 
 by a bear when he was hunting. The 37th king was Alfonfo I. 
 'furnamed the Catholic, fon-in-law to Pelayo, During his reign 
 
 * About tliis time a king of Navarre was alfo defied. 
 
 ■Z z 2 A civil
 
 356 APPENDIX. 
 
 a civil war broke out among the Moors, which gave Alfonfbs 
 an opportunity of retaking many provinces. He died in 757. He- 
 was fucceeded by his eldeft. fon Don Fruela. In 761, he built 
 the city of Oviedo, made it an epifcopal fee, and the capital of 
 his dominions, from whence the ancient kings were ftyled kings- 
 of Oviedo. He was the firft who introduced the title of Don irt 
 thefe kingdoms. The Moor Abderamo conquered Saragofla^ 
 and the provinces of Aragon and Catalonia. In 765, he enter- 
 ed into an alliance with Pepin king of France, w^ith a view ta 
 enfure the peaceable pofleflion of his dominions in Spain. About 
 this time the Moorifh gallantry, arms, and arts flourifhed, and 
 they rendered Granada and Cordova two of the mofl beautiful- 
 cities in Europe : thus the Barbarians were become the civilized 
 inhabitants of Spain, and the Spaniards were changed into Barba- 
 rians. In 767, Don Fruela murdered his brother, and the follow- 
 ing year was aflaffmated himfelf, and another of his brothers, 
 named Don Aurelio, placed on the throne. He died in 774, 
 and was fucceeded by Don Silo, who died 782.. The 41 ft king 
 was named Mauregato : he died in 789. About this time Ab- 
 deramo built the famous mofque in Cordova, and died fhortly 
 after. The 42d king, Don Veremundo, or Bermudo I. abdi- 
 «ated the throne, and died four years after. He was fucceeded; 
 by Don Alfonfo II. furnamed the Chafte : the time when he- 
 began his reign is very uncertain ; fome hiftorians place it in> 
 762, others in 791 : it is fuppofed that he died in B42, and his 
 fon Don Ramiro I. fucceeded him. He gained a memorable 
 vidlory over the Moors by the miraculous afliftance of the apoftle 
 
 St.
 
 y 
 
 APPENDIX. 357 
 
 Sr,, James, patron of Spain, who appeared at the head of his 
 army, according to the Spanifh hiftorians, and from thence for- 
 ward a part of all military fpoils have been allotted to the fhare 
 of that faint and foldier *. Ramiro died in 850, and his foa 
 DonOrdoiial. reigned in his ftead f,, till 865, when he died,, 
 and was fucceeded by his fon Don Alfonfo III. He abdicated 
 in 911, in favour of his fon Don Garcia, who reigned only 
 three years. His brother, Don Ordono II. fucceeded him, and 
 died in 923. His brother, Don Fruela II, was then placed on 
 the throne, which he filled thirteen months, and died detefted 
 by his fubjeds becaufe of his tyranny. Don Alfonfo IV. fon of 
 Don Ordoiio II. was then proclaimed king of Leon and the 
 Afturias. After reigning three years he abdicated in favour of 
 his brother, Don Ramiro II. and turned monk in the monaftery 
 ©f Sahagun : foon after which he repented, and attempted to re- 
 gain the throne, but his brother caufed his eyes to be put out. 
 Don Ramiro died in 950, after having declared his fon Don. 
 OrdoHo III his fucceffor. He died in 955, and his fon Don Or- 
 dono IV. reigned one year, at the expiration of which he was 
 murdered by his uncle Don Sancho I. furnamed the Fat, who 
 placed himfelf on the throne. He was poifoned in 967, and 
 the crown was given to his fon Don Ramiro III. under the re- 
 gency of his mother Dona Therefa, and Doiia Elvira, fifter to 
 the late king, and a nun in a monaftery in Leon. A French. 
 
 * Clave Hiftorial. p. 170. 
 
 t The ftreets of the city of Cordova were paved by the Moors in 853. 
 A. French, author fays, that thofe of Paris were not paved till 1183. 
 
 author
 
 358 APPENDIX. 
 
 author makes the following refledlions upon this event. "■ This 
 *' is perhaps the only example we find in hiftory of a turbulent 
 *' and warlike people fufFering themfelves to be governed by a 
 *' nun ; and of two women, who being jointly entrufted with 
 " the government, had the common good in view in all their 
 " adions, without divifion, without quarrels, without rivalfliip, 
 *' and without jealoufy." 
 
 About this time the firft king of Caftile reigned, fo that Spain 
 was governed by four different kings, which were thofe of Leon 
 and the Afturias, of Navarre, of Caftile, and the Moorifli king 
 of Cordova. Don Ramiro died in 982, and was fucceeded by 
 his fon Don Bermudo IJ. who died in 999. Don Alfonfo V. 
 then reigned till the year 1027, when he was killed by an arrow 
 at the fiege of Vifeu in Portugal. His fon, Don Bermudo III, 
 then filled the throne. In 1037, Don Garcia IV. king of Na- 
 varre, aided by his brother Ferdinand I. king of Caftile, gave 
 battle to Don Bermudo, who was defeated and killed, and with 
 him ended the male poftcrity of the Gothic kings defcended from 
 Pelayo. Ferdinand advanced towards the city of Leon, at the 
 head of his victorious army, caufed himfelf to be there crowned, 
 and united that kingdom to Caftile, by virtue of his marriage with 
 Doria Sancha, fifter to the late king Bermudo. A new king 
 fprung lip in Aragon about this time. Ferdinand divided his 
 kingdom among his three fons, and died in 1065. The eldeil 
 fon, Don Sancho, feized on the pofieflions of both his brothers, 
 but he was prevented from enjoying them, being aflaffinated in 
 1072. He was fucceeded by his brother, Don Alfonfo VI. who 
 
 was
 
 APPENDIX, 359 
 
 was- proclaimed, after having taken an oath that he was innocent 
 of his brother's death, in prefence of the celebrated Rodrigo 
 Diaz de Vivar, fo well known by the name of the Cid (which 
 in the Morifco language fignifies Lord'.) Alfonfo confined his 
 younger brother, and took Galicia from him. In 1085, he 
 conquered Toledo from the Moors. Nine years after which, the 
 Cid conquered Valencia for the king his mafter : he died in 
 1099. A French author fays, that the tragedy by Peter Cor- 
 neille, which is intitled after him, and which has been tranflat- 
 ed into almoft all the European languages, has given a greater 
 luftre to his name than all his military exploits did. Alfonfd 
 died in 1 109; and the 6 2d king was Don Alfonfo VII. He 
 was fucceeded, in 1126, by Don Alfonfo VIII. and he, by 
 Don Sancho III. in 1157, who reigned only a year. Don Fer^ 
 dinand II. afterwards reigned a very fhort time, during the mino- 
 rity of Don Alfonfo IX. who was the 66th king. Ferdinand, 
 died in 1188, and Alfonfo in 1214 after a reign of -56 '.years. 
 His fon, Don Henry I. fucceeded him, and was killed the fol- 
 lowing year by the fall of a tile on his head. Don Ferdinand 
 III. furnamed the Saint, was then proclaimed. He conquered 
 Sevilla from the Moors in 1 248 : he died four years after; and, 
 in 1 67 1, was canonized by pope Clement X. who gracioufly 
 permitted the Spaniards to celebrate the feftival of their new 
 faint; He was fucceeded by Don Alfonfo X. furnamed the Wife. 
 He was eleded emperor at Franckfort in 1257 ; and, at the fame 
 time, another party ele^fted Richard earl of Cornwall, and bro- 
 tlier to king. Henry III. *'of England, emperor. Alfonfo went.
 
 360 APPENDIX. 
 
 to Beaucaire, where he had an interview with pope Gregory X. 
 who refufed to confirm his title of emperor. He died in 1284: 
 he compofed Aftronomical Tables, and two books on the philo- 
 fopher's ftone, which lafl are faid to be yet preferved in the 
 Royal Library at Madrid. His fon, Don Sancho IV. was then 
 crowned; he was furnamed the Brave ; died in 1295, and was 
 llicceeded by his fon Don Ferdinand IV. The Spanifli hiftorians 
 write, that this monarch having caufed two brothers to be thrown 
 from a rock in the kingdom of Jaen, without any trial, they 
 fummoned him to appear before God within thirty days, and 
 that he accordingly died on the laft of thofe days, though in 
 perfeft health : this is faid to have happened in 1 3 1 2. His fon, 
 Don Alfonfo XI. then reigned. In 1342, he laid fiege to the 
 town of Algeciras, which was in poffefTion of the Moors, who 
 defended it with cannon againft the feeble machines of war then 
 in ufe to batter down walls. This is the firft time we find ar- 
 tillery mentioned in hiftory : it was probably invented by the 
 Moors, though gun-powder had before been invented in Ger- 
 many. This fiege lafted two years, but at length the town ca- 
 pitulated by order of the kings of Morocco and Granada, upon 
 condition of a truce of ten years taking place between them and 
 the king of Caftile. Don Alfonfo died of the plague in 1350. 
 He was fucceeded by his fon, Don Peter the Cruel, who was 
 excommunicated by the pope in 1355; and, in 1369, after a 
 reign, of which every day had been diflinguifhed by the moft 
 barbarous executions, ftabbed by his brother Don Henry II. 
 who was then proclaimed king: he died in 13791 and was 
 
 fucceeded
 
 A P P E N D r X. ^dt 
 
 fucceeded by his fon, Don John I. This prince, hi 1390, was- 
 killed by a fall from his horfe. His fon, DonHeurylll. then 
 reigned. The fir ft clock which was feen in Spain was placed in 
 the cathedral of Sevilla in 1400. In 1402, Don Henry receiv- 
 ed Ambaffadors and magnificent prefents from the famous Ta- 
 merlane. In 1405, Henry enaded laws by which he ordered 
 Jews and concubines of ecclefiaftics to wear a diftinguifhing 
 mark on their clothes ; and the following year he died. His fon, 
 Don John II. who was but fourteen months old, fucceeded him.) 
 imder the regency of his mother and his uncle : at the age of 
 thirteen he took the reins of government into his own hands. 
 In 1434J an ambaflador was fent to him from Charles VII. king 
 of France, requefting his affiftance againft the Englifh : this am- 
 baiTador was received by Don John fitting on a magnificent 
 throne, with a tame lion at his feet, in allufion to his crown of 
 Leon. He died in 1454, and was fucceeded by his fon, Doa 
 Henry IV. furnamed the Impotent, who died in 1474. It was 
 fufpeded that he was poifoned by contrivance of Doiia Ifabel, 
 daughter to John II. fhe married the king of Aragon, and 
 they were jointly proclaimed fovereigns of Caftile and Aragon, 
 under the names of Don Ferdinand V. and Dona Ifabel. Dur- 
 ing their reign the inquifition was eftablifhed, and in the firft 
 auio-de-fe, in 1481, feven perfons were burnt alive. They con- 
 quered upwards of feventy cities and towns, which were pofl^efT- 
 ed by the Mahometans,, among which was the city of Granada, 
 which put an end to the dominion of the Moors in Spain, after 
 having laded almoft eight hundred years. In 1492, America. 
 
 A a a was.
 
 362 APPENDIX. 
 
 was dllcovered by Chriftoplier Columbus. In 1496, the title of 
 Catholic was granted to the kings of Spain by pope Alexander 
 VJ. In 1504, queen Ifabel died. In 1509, Oran, in Africa, 
 was taken by the Spaniards ; and, in the fame year, king Henry 
 VIII. of England, efpoufed Dona Catherine of Aragon, daugh- 
 ter to Don Ferdinand, but afterwards Henry divorced her, and 
 feparated himfelf from the Romifli church. In 15 13, Peru, Chi- 
 li, and Paraguay, in South America, were difcovered, and the 
 city of Panama founded. Don Ferdinand died in 15 16, having 
 firft caufed himfelf to be invefted with the Dominican habit. 
 
 In the mean time, Don Philip I. reigned over Caftile from 
 1504, till his death, which happened two years after. The 
 81ft king of Spain was Don Charles I. of Luxemburg, (after- 
 wards the emperor Charles V. in Germany) : he was proclaimed 
 in Valladolid in 151 9. In the fame year Ferdinand Cortez con- 
 quered Mexico. Charles was the firft fovereign who affumed 
 the title of inajejiy. He abdicated the throne at BrufTels in 
 1555, in favour of his fon, who was proclaimed by the title of 
 Don Philip I J. Charles had been nine times in Germany, fix 
 times in Spain, four times in France, feven times in Italy, ten 
 times in the Netherlands, twice in England, as many times 
 in Africa, and eleven times at fea. He died two years 
 after his abdication, in the monaftery of St. Juft, whither 
 he had retired after a reign of upwards of forty years. In 1559, 
 Don Philip ordered two autos^de-fe, or religious executions, in 
 Valladolid, atone of which himfelf was prefent; feventy un- 
 happy wretches of both fexes were there burnt alive. This bar- 
 barous
 
 APPENDIX. 363 
 
 barous monarch confined his own fon in prifon, where he lan- 
 guiftied and died : and, in 1568, fent the no lefs barbarous duke 
 of Alva to maffacre thofe inhabitants of the Netherlands who re- 
 fufed to embrace the Catholic Faith. In 1581, Philip was pro- 
 claimed king of Portugal after the death of Don Henry. In 1586, 
 he finifhed the building of the Efcorial: in 1588, fent the navy 
 ftyled the Invincible Armada, againft England; and, in 598, 
 he died, after a reign of near 43 years. He was fucceeded by 
 his fon, Don Philip III. who died in 1621. His fon, Don 
 Philip I V» then, filled the thrones of Spain and Portugal ; but, 
 in 1 640, he loft the crown of the latter kingdom, which was 
 feized by the duke of Braganfa. In 1647, he- renounced all 
 pretenfions to the feven United Provinces, and declared them 
 free and independent. In 1653, he permitted the cruel tribunal 
 of the inquifition to celebrate aa auto-de-Je, in which of feventy- 
 two Jews and heretics, fome were burnt, and others whipped 
 and banifhed. He died in 1665, after a reign of 44 years, and 
 left his kingdom, to his fon Don Charles II. who was at that 
 time an infant of four years of age, under the regency of his 
 mother. She appointed her confeffor, father Nitard, to be 
 grand inquifitor, and placed him at the head of her council. 
 This German Jefuit faid one day to a grandee who fpoke 
 haughtily to him, " Remember, it is you that are to refpe£l me,- 
 ♦* who have every day your God in my hands, and your queen 
 ♦* at my feet." He was afterwards fent ambaffador to Rome, 
 and attaiaed to the dignity of cardinal. At the age of fifteen Don^ 
 
 A. a. a. 2 Charle&>
 
 364 A P P E N D I X. 
 
 Charles took the government Into his own hands; and, in 1679^ 
 cfpoufed, at Burgos, the princefs Louifa of Orleans, niece to 
 Lewis XIV. of France; and, by -way of rejoicing at thefe nup- 
 tials, an auto-de-fe was ordered, in which twenty-two viftims 
 of the inquifition periflied in flames, and fixty others were con- 
 demned to corporal punifhment. Don Charles died in 1 700 : 
 as he had no children, he, by his will, declared the duke of 
 Anjou to be his fucceflbr, upon condition that he lliould never 
 be capable of fucceeding to the crown of France. The duke 
 was fecond fon to the Dauphin, nephew to Don Charles, and 
 was proclaimed king at Madrid, under the name of Philip V. In 
 1724, he abdicated the crown in favour of his fon Don Lewis, 
 who died of the fmall-pox in the fame year, having done no- 
 thing more reiliarkable, then caufing five Jews to be burnt in an 
 auto-de-fe. His father then refumed the government of the 
 kingdom, and died in 1746, after a reign of 46 years. He was 
 twice married ; by his firft marriage, which was with Doria 
 Louifa of Savoy, he had three fons ; the two firft dying, the 
 third fucceeded to the crown by the name of Don Ferdinand 
 VJ. By his fecond marriage, which was with Doiia Ifabel Far- 
 nefe princefs of Parma, he had a fon named Don Charles (the 
 prefent king of Spain), who, in 1734, was declared king of 
 Naples ; two fons who died young, the late duke of Parma, 
 and the infant Don Lewis who is yet living ; the prefent queen of 
 Portugal ; the late dauphinefs of France; and the prefent prin- 
 cefs of Piedmont. 
 
 Don
 
 APPENDIX. 365 
 
 Don Ferdinand VI. died in 1759*, and was fucceeded by 
 liis prefent majefly, Don Charles III. (89th king). Berni, the 
 Spanifh hiftorian, in his book, mentioned in p. 177 of this 
 work, and which is dedicated to the king, thus exprefles him- 
 felf : " Our adlual monarch, whom God preferve, is the lord 
 " Don Charles III. of Bourbon : he fucceeded his beloved bro- 
 " thcr the lord Don Ferdinand VI. he efpoufed the lady Dona 
 " Maria- Amelia of Saxony, who is in glory (i. e. dead). 
 
 " Leaving his praifes to better pens than mine, I fhall only 
 *' fay, that through the mercy of God, we glory in a monarch 
 " happy in religion, juftice, piety, together with arts, fciences, 
 " fabrics, and rewards to the deferving; and we are obliged to 
 " pray to God for the fpi ritual and temporal falvation of our 
 " Catholic monarch (and royal family), and to offer with all 
 '' our hearts, our lives and our goods in defence of his royal 
 *' per Ton, and in obedience to his laws and decrees, with an 
 *' efpecial precife obligation to know him, love him, fear him, 
 " honour him, and guard him. Firft, becaufe in the temporal 
 " he holds the place of God, and is called the vicar of God. 
 *' Secondly, becaufe the authority of his laws is approved by 
 •' the holy fcripture, Bj me kings reig;?, and princes decree jujlice : 
 *' By 7ne princes rule, and nobles, even all the judges of the earth. 
 " Prov. viil v. 15 and 16. Thirdly, becaufe our fovereign, in 
 *' the temporal, acknowledges no fuperior in this world, buton- 
 *' ly the king of kings, who is God, our creator, redeemer, and 
 
 * This monarch and his father, Philip V. are both faid to have died 
 infene. 
 
 " faviour.
 
 366 APPENDIX. 
 
 " faviour. Fourthly, becaufe our monarch is head, heart, and; 
 
 " foul of the people, and fuch a lover of his vaflals, and of the 
 
 " upright adminiflration of juftice, that he governs and com- 
 
 " mands us according to the fcientific laws of the kingdom, 
 
 *' which are praifed by all the civilized nations in the world, as' 
 
 " they teach us catholic, juridical, and oeconomieal rules up- 
 
 " on all occafions, for the better fervice of God, of the king, and 
 
 *' of the public good, and on the mofl folid foundations explain 
 
 *' to the Spaniards their obligations to their fovereign : fo that 
 
 *• we muft ferve, fear, and love him with a fine afFedlion, by the 
 
 " fight; by the hearing; by the fmell; by the tafte ; by the 
 
 •* feeling ; by the tongue ; by the underftanding ; by the fancy ; . 
 
 *' by the imagination; by the thinking; and. by the remem- 
 ** brance*." 
 
 * See p. 167 for an account of the prefent royal family of Spaio^ 
 
 C A T A-
 
 APPEND I X. 
 
 N° IV. 
 
 367 
 
 CATALOGUE of BOOKS which defcribc 
 Spain and Portugal. 
 
 ENGLISH. 
 
 7\/fP' ^0 IRS of the Court of Spain, 1679, i vol. 1 2mo. 
 
 tranflated from the French, by T. Broivn : political. 
 
 The Lady^s Travels in Spaing 1679, 2 vols, tranflated from 
 
 the French. 
 
 A new Incorred edition of this romantic work was 
 
 publilhed in 1774- 
 
 Mifcellaneous TraBs., by Dr. Michael Geddes, 4 vols. 8vo. 
 
 J 690, on the inquifition, the expulfion of the Moors, &c. 
 
 'The Hijlory of the Conquejl of Spain by the Moors, tranflated 
 
 from the Spanish, by M. Taubman, xbZ'j, i vol. 8vo. 
 
 A brief Hijlory of the Kings of Spain, by Captain John 
 
 Stevens, compiler of a Spanifh and Englifli Didionary, 1701, 
 
 I vol. 8vo. 
 
 Travels in France, Spain, &:c. 170 ', a fmall folio, by 
 
 E. Veryard^ M. D. Of this work only ten pages relate to 
 Spain. 
 
 The Hifory of the Royal Genealogy of Spain, tranflated from 
 
 *he French by Thomas Richers, 1718, \ vol. 8vo. 
 
 Bronte's
 
 368 APPENDIX. 
 
 Bromes Travels through Portugal, Spain, Italy, &c. 1712^ 
 I vol. 8vo. 
 
 An Account of Spain and Portugal, hj Vdal ap Rhys (or Price)^ 
 1749, I vol. 8vo. a compilation. 
 
 Letters concerning the Spanijh Nation, 1761, i vol. 410, by 
 the Reverend Edivard Clarke^ chaplain to the Earl of Briftol. 
 
 Journey through Portugal and Spain, by Jofeph Baretti, 1760,. 
 4 vols. 8vo. From Lifbon through Madrid to Barcelona. 
 
 Hijlory of Minorca, hy fohn Armjirong, i vol. Bvo. with a. 
 map and four plates, 1756. 
 
 Hijiory of the Straits of Gibraltar., 2 vols. 4to, hy Lieutenant 
 Colonel fames, with eighteen plates, 1771 *. 
 
 ADefcriptionoftheEfcurial, 1760, 1 vol. 4to. with twelve 
 beautiful copper-plates : Done intoEnglifh by Geo. Thowpfon, 
 
 Berni's Genealogy of the Kings of Spain, 1 vol. folio, I never, 
 could get a fight of this tranflatioUi 
 
 FRENCH. 
 
 Voyage d'Efpagne. par C. de Sercy, 1655, i vol. 4to. 
 
 Lettres de Madame de Villars, ambafladrice en Efpagne en 
 1679, a fmall duodecimo, printed at Amfterdam in 1760. 
 
 Voyage d^ Efpagne,. par Bergeron, 1690, i vol. 8vo. 
 
 Relation du Voyage d'' Efpagne, par Madame Daunois, 1679, 
 3 vols. 8vo. This Is the original work which is tranflated, and. 
 entitled the Lady's Travels. 
 
 * See p. 277, for a farther account of this work. 
 
 Voyage
 
 APPENDIX. 369 
 
 Foyage du Pere Lahat en Efpagtie & en Italie, 8 vols. 8vo. 
 The firft volume gives an account of Cadiz and ievilla, 
 and where the author was in 1705; the other fevea 
 volumes contain a defcription of Italy. 
 VEtat prefent de PEfpagncy par PAbbe de Vayrac^ 3 vols. 1 7 1 9. 
 Delices de PEfpagne & du Portugal, 6 vols. 12 mo. 1730, 
 with a great number of indifferent copper-plates. 
 
 Annales d^EJpagne ^ de Portugal^ 8 vols. 6\o. 1741 : both 
 thefe works are by Don Juan Alvarez de Colmenar, and are 
 chiefly compilations. There is likewife a 4to. edition of the 
 Annales, in 4 vols, with copper-plates. 
 Defcription de Lifbonne, i vol. 8vo. 1730. 
 Hijloire Abregee des Peintres Efpagnoh^ i vol. 8vo. 1740, 
 tranflated and abridged from Don Antonio Palomino yelafco^s Spa- 
 nifh work. 
 
 Abregee Chronologique de P Hijloire d'EJpagne, par M. Defor-- 
 meaux, 5 vols. 8vo. J 75 8. 
 
 — — — ■ • ' & de Portugal, in 
 
 two thick ovo vols. 1765. 
 
 This is efteemed to be the beft hiftory of the Peninfula. 
 Voyage d^Efpagne en 1755, printed in 1772, 2 vols. 8vo, This- 
 is a very bad and imperfed tranflation of Father Caimo's book,, 
 by P. de Livoy. 
 
 Voyage de Francey d'EJpagne^ de Portugal, &c. par M. S, 
 4 vols. 12 mo. 1770. 
 
 The two laft volumes give a very concife account of the wri- 
 ter's Tour through Spain in 1729, 
 
 B b b Anecdotes.
 
 37© APPENDIX. 
 
 Anecdotes Efpagnoks Of Portugaifes, 2 vols, thick odavo, 
 ■1773 : hiftorical. 
 
 Hijioire de P Afriqiie & de VEfpagnc fous la Domination des 
 Arabcs, par M. Cardonne, 1765, 3 vols. 8vo. 
 
 There is at prefent a work carrying on in Paris, intltled, Le 
 Voyageur Francois, compiled by the Abbe de la Porte. Eighteen 
 volumes in 8vo. have already appeared : half of the fifteenth con- 
 tains the defcriptlon of Portugal, and the fixteenth that of Spain. 
 
 ITALIAN. 
 
 Lettere dhin Vago Italiano ad un Juo Arnica, in 4 vols. 8vo. 
 1755, by Father Nor her to Caimo *. 
 
 Stato prefent e di tutti i Popoli del Mondo. 
 
 This work, which is publifhing in Venice, Is to be comprif- 
 ed in 30 volumes, of which 27 have appeared: the 14th and 
 15th treat of Spain and Portugal, and have a great number of 
 badly engraven copper-plates, chiefly copied from thofe in the 
 Delices de rE/pagiie, and fome of them are mere works of 
 fancy, efpecially the View of Madrid, where the engraver has 
 reprefented fhips failing near the town ; and that of Gibraltar, 
 v>rhere there is the view of a city fuppofed to be fituated on the 
 top of the rock. The print of the Cortile de los Leones^ in the 
 Alhambra at Granada, is tolerably accurate. 
 
 * Por a farther account of this work, fee p. 96. 
 
 I know
 
 APPENDIX. 371 
 
 Iknow not of any German or Dutch book which, defcribes 
 thefe kingdoms, except the Tr^-y^/j of Van Egmonty where, in 
 the fecond chapter of the firft volume, is fome account of 
 Cadiz. 
 
 In 1738, were pubUfhed at Amfterdam, two quarto volumes, 
 entitled, Emanuelis Martini Ecclefice Alonenfis Decani, Rpijlola- 
 riim, Ubri duodecim, with a fine head of the author, and two 
 other plates, one of which is a plan of the amphitheatre of 
 Saguntum. 
 
 PORTUGUESE. 
 
 Mappa de Portugal, pelo Padre Joa'o Baut. de Cajlro, 3 vols. 
 4to. Lifbon, 1762, with bad maps. 
 
 Monument aero de Mafra, por Fr. do Prado, one fmall folio, 
 with three plates, 1751. 
 
 Roteiro Terrejlre de Portugal : this is a duodecimo, copied from, 
 de Caftro's above mentioned work. 
 
 SPANISH. 
 
 La Efpana Sagrada, del P. Florez, 25 vols, in fmall 4to. 
 with a few plates of infcriptions, &c. This work is chiefly eccle- 
 fiaftical hiftory. 
 
 Medullas de las Colonias.Municip'ws y Pueblos Antiguos de Efpana, 
 by the fame 'Saihcx Florez, 2 vols. 4to. Madrid, 1758, with 
 58 extremely well engraven plates of the medals. I believe 
 there are two more volumes of this work publifhed lately. 
 
 B b b 2 Hijioria:
 
 372 APPENDIX. 
 
 Hijior'ia de his Rfynas de Ejpatia, 2 vols. 4to. by the fame 
 author. 
 
 Clavi' Hijlorialf by the fame hand, 4to. Madrid, 1769. At 
 the end of this work is inferted a fmall print, reprefenting one 
 of the medals ftruck in honour of admiral Vernon, after his hav- 
 ing taken Puerto-Bello, in 1739 ; the author wilfully confounds 
 this vidory with the unfuccefsful expedition againft Carthagena, 
 in 1741, and fays, '* this medal will be a perpetual teftimony 
 *' of the pride and levity of the Englifh." 
 
 Don Juan de Mariana publifhed a hiftory of Spain in the 
 laft century, which was lately reprinted in Madrid, in three 
 folio volumes. 
 
 Compendia de la Hijioria de Efpana, 2 vols. i2mo. Madrid, 
 1767. This is a very elegant and liberal tranflation from the 
 French of Father du C/ieJhe^ by the celebrated Father Jofeph de 
 IJla, author of Frey Gerundio. 
 
 Guerra de Granada par Don Felipe II. contra los Morijcos, por 
 Don Diego de Mendoza^ 8vo, 1766. 
 
 Theatro tini'verfal de Efpana., por Don Francifco de Garma y 
 Salcedo, 4 vols. i2mo. 1768: hiftorical and political. 
 
 Genealogiti de los Reyes de Efpana^ 1720, i2mo, Antwerp, with 
 a few maps. 
 
 Defcripcion del Efcorial, del P. Andres Ximenez^ a new edi- 
 tion in folio, with many copper plates, Madrid, 1764. 
 
 Defcripcion de la Provincia de Madrid^ por D. Thomas LopeZy 
 with a map of the environs of Madrid, 1763, lamo. 
 
 Defcripcion
 
 APPENDIX, 373 
 
 T)efcripcion de Valencia^ por Pqfqual de Gillb, 1738, 8vo. 
 with a plan of the city. 
 
 Defcripcmi del Reyno de Portugal, por D. Francifco NipliOy 
 1762, i2mo. 
 
 Coreo general de Efpana. This is a work of which the firfl 
 volume in quarto was publifhed in Madrid 1769, by the fame 
 Don Francifco Nipho : five volumes have already appeared, and 
 it is yet continued, treating of agriculture, arts, and commerce, 
 with a few wooden cuts. 
 
 Noticia Geografica del Reyno y Caminos de Portugal, por Don 
 Pedro Rodriguez Catnpomanes, i'jt2, 8vo. dedicated to his ex- 
 cellency Don Richard Wall *. 
 
 V'tage de Efpana, por Don Antonio de la Puente. There were 
 two volumes of this work publifhed in Madrid, 8vo. 1772 and 
 1774, and it is intended to be continued : it is pretty well writ- 
 ten, but very diffufe, as thefe two volumes contain only the de- 
 fcription of Toledo, Aranjuez, and the Efcorial. 
 
 Pafeos por Granada, two fmall quartos, 1764. In this work 
 fome information may be picked up from among a heap of non- 
 fenfe. I was acquainted with the author in Granada. 
 
 To thefe may be added, Creadon, Antigu^edad^ y Privilegios de 
 Jos Titulos de CaJliUa, por D. Jo/cpli Berni, printed, Valencia, 
 1769, in a thick folio, dedicated to the prefentking. This book 
 contains a lift of the Spanifh monarchs, and of all the nobility, 
 
 * Smollet's tranflation of Don Q^iixote is dedicated to this gentleman, 
 
 but
 
 374 APPENDIX. 
 
 but many errors have unavoidably crept into it : it is ornamentedl 
 with the heads of the fovereigns, though but badly engraven. 
 
 There are exifting in Spain feveral folio hiftories of Toledo, 
 Sevilla, Granada, Cordova, Madrid, Segovia, Salamanca, &c. all 
 publifhed a hundred years ago, and very uninterefting : for ex- 
 ample, that of Segovia, which is in folio, makes not the leafl: 
 mention of the aquedu£l of Trajan, but then it contains a parti- 
 cular account of relics, and the like rubbifh. 
 
 From among all this heap of books (moft of which I have been 
 under the difagreeable ncceffity of reading), I recommend the 
 following to the perufal of the intelligent reader. 
 
 The 1 5th and 16th volume of Le Voyageur Frangois; Father 
 Caimo's Italian work ; La Yfla's Compendium of the Hiftory of 
 Spain ; and de la Puente's Viage de EJ'pana. The plates in the 
 Hijiory of Gibraltar, and in the Defer ipt ion of the Efcurial, are. 
 worthy of infpedtion. 
 
 Some
 
 APPENDIX. 375 
 
 'Some Account of the Sp.anish and Portuguese 
 LITERATURE. 
 
 'T T O L T A I R E, in his Eflay on Epic Poetry, having criti- 
 ^ cifed the Lufiad of Camoens^ and the Araucana of Ercilla 
 de Ztmigay which are the beft epic poems of the two nations, 
 the firft of which is written in the Portuguefe, and the fecond in 
 the Spanifh language ; I fhall begin with them, availing myfelf 
 of all his remarks, when I find them confonant with thofe of 
 the writers of their refpedtive nations. 
 
 Lewis de Camoens was born in Lifbon, about the year 1523, 
 of an ancient Poriuguefe family, whilft John III. reigned in 
 Portugal. His fucceffor, Don Emanuel, who was determined 
 to purfue the fcheme which had fo often prove-d abortive, of 
 -opening a route to the Eaft Indies, by way of the ocean, fent 
 Vafco de Gama, in 1497, "^^ith a fleet for that celebrated enter- 
 prize, which having lucceeded, laid the foundation for the 
 commerce which Europe ftill carries on by fea with the Indies, 
 In i5';3, Camoens went to the Indies; a vague defire for tra- 
 velling and making his fortune ; the danger to which his indif- 
 creet gallantries at Lifbon had expofed him ; his difcontented 
 fituation at the court ; and above all, that curiofity which moft-
 
 376 APPENDIX. 
 
 ly attends a great genius, were the motives which concurred to 
 induce him to leave his country. He firft ferved as a volunteer 
 on board a fliip, and loft an eye in a naval combat in the 
 Straits of Gibraltar. The Portuguefe had already a viceroy in 
 the Indies. Camoens, when at Goa, was exiled by that vice- 
 roy, becaufe he had fatirized fome principal perfons refiding; 
 there, and languiflied feveral years in an obfcure corner on the 
 frontiers of China, where the Portuguefe had a fmall fadory, 
 and where they had begun to build the town of Macao. There 
 it was. that he compofed his poem on the difcovery of the Indies, 
 which he intitled the Liifiaday a title which is but little appli- 
 cable to its fubjedl, and which properly fignifies Portugada. He 
 obtained a fmall place in Macao, and returning from thence to- 
 Goa, he was fhipwrecked on the coaft of China, and is faid to 
 have faved his life by fwimming with one hand, and holding 
 his poem, which was his all, in the other. On his arrival at 
 Goa he was caft into prifon, from whence he was releafed only 
 to undergo a greater misfortune, which was that of following 
 a petty, proud, and avaricious governor to Sofala in Africa. He 
 returned at laft to Lifbon with his poem, which was his whole 
 fortune : he printed it in 1572, and obtained a penfion of about 
 thirty pounds of our money, which was foon taken from him.. 
 He had then no other retreat than an hofpital, where he paffed 
 the reft of his life; and, in 1579, died abandoned by all. He 
 was fcarcely dead, when many honourable epitaphs were made 
 on him, and he was placed in the rank of great men. Several 
 towns difputcd the honour of having given birth to him : fa 
 
 tiiat
 
 APPENDIX. 377 
 
 tbat he experienced Homer's fate in every thing- : he travelled 
 like Homer, he lived and died poor, and gained no reputation 
 till after his death. Thefe examples ought to teach men of 
 genius, that it is not by genius that a man acquires a fortune 
 and lives happily,. 
 
 The fubje(fl of the Lu/iada is neither a war, the quarrel of a 
 hero, nor the world in arms for a woman, but only a new 
 country difcovered by the affiftance of navigation. The poet 
 fets off thus * :■ 
 
 " I fing the fignallzed men, who from the occidental coaft of 
 '* Lufitania, over feas never before navigated, paffed even be- 
 " yond Taprobana (Ceylon), and in a remote country founded 
 ** a new kingdom." 
 
 *' Let the navigations of the fage Grecian, and of the 
 " Trojan be no more wondered at. Let the fame of the 
 *' victories of Alexander and Trajan ceafe, for I fing the 
 " illuflrious Lufitanlan whom Neptune and Mars obeyed : let 
 *' the ancient Mufes be filent, for his valour furpafles all they 
 " have fung of others ; and. you, nymphs of the Tagus, if ever 
 ** I celebrated In humble verfe your beautiful river, grant me an 
 *' elevated and flowing ftyle, for Phoebus has ordained that your. 
 " v/aters fhall not envy thofe of Hypocrena, &c. &c." 
 
 *" The French paragraphs which Voltaire has inferted in his above 
 mentioned efiay, and which he fays were tr.mflated from the original Portu- 
 guefe, are different from the following tranflated quotations, becaufe I have 
 given them as they really are. 
 
 C c c The
 
 378 A P P IE N D I X. 
 
 The poet condudls the Portuguefe fleet to the mouth of the 
 Ganges, byway of the Cape of Good Hope: he defcrlbes the 
 different nations inhabiting the coafts of Africa: he artfully in- 
 termixes the hiftory of Portugal in that defcription. In the 
 third canto, ftanza 1 18, is the ftory of Dona Ignez de Caftro : 
 this part Voltaire efteems to be the mod beautiful in the whole 
 poem, and fays, that there are few parts in Virgil more affeifi- 
 ing or better written. 
 
 'O 
 
 Voltaire thus continues : The fimplicity of the poem is en- 
 nobled by fidlions as novel as the fubje£t. The following one, I 
 venture to affirm, will be admired in all times, and by all 
 nations. 
 
 *' When the fleet is on the point of doubling the Cape of 
 " Good-Hope, at that time called the Promontory of Tempefts, 
 " a formidable objed is difcovered : it is a phantom which rifes 
 *' out of the bottom of the fea ; his head touches the clouds; 
 *' tempefts, winds, and thunders environ him ; his arms extend 
 " over the whole furface of the waters : this monfter, or this 
 " god, is the guardian of this ocean, of which the waves had 
 *' never yet been ploughed by any veflel ; he threatens the fleet, 
 ** he complains of the audacity of the Portuguefe, who are 
 *' come to difpute the empire of thofe feas with him, and an- 
 ** nounces all the calamities which they are to fufi^er in the pro- 
 ** fecution of their enterprife." Canto v. ftanza 39, 
 
 The literal tranflation of part of the above paffage is as Follows: 
 
 ♦^ One
 
 APPENDIX. 379 
 
 ** One night a cloud, which darkened the air, appeared over 
 " our heads, the tempeftuous fea roared horribly, fo that our 
 " hearts trembled ; a phantom was then feen in the air, of an 
 " enormous ftature and deformed human fhape, his fize furpaff- 
 *' ed that of the Coloffus of Rhodes, his beard was fqualid, his 
 " eyes funk in his head, his hair clotted with earth, his com- 
 " plexion pallid, his mouth black, and his teeth yellow; his 
 " horrid voice, which caufed our hair to fland on end, feemed to 
 ** Iflue from the bottom of the fea, &c." 
 
 Another fiction in this poem is much admired by the Portu- 
 g»efe, and conforms to the Italian genius : it is an enchanted 
 iiland, which appears at fea, in order to refrefh Gama and his 
 fleet *. This ifland Is fald to have ferved as a model for the 
 ifland of Armida, defcribed by Taffo a few years afterwards. 
 There Venus, aided by thecounfels of the Eternal Father, and, 
 at the fame time, feconded by the arrows of Cupid, caufes the 
 Nereides to fall in love with the Portuguefe ; each of whom em- 
 braces a Nereid, and Vafco de Gama falls to the lot of Thetis. 
 In the ninth canto, that goddefs tranfports him to the top of a 
 high mountain, fituated in the moft delicious part of the ifland, 
 from thence fhe flieweth him all the kingdoms of the world, and 
 the glory of them ; and in the tenth and laft, foretels the deftiny 
 of Portugal. 
 
 * Os fermofos Limoes, alll che'irandv 
 
 Ejiao virgmeas tetas imitando. Canto ix. Stanza 56. 
 
 The goodly lemons, with their button-caps, 
 
 Hang imitating virgin's fragrant paps. Fanshaw, 
 
 Ccc2 Camoena
 
 380 APPENDIX. 
 
 Camoens, after having abandoned himfelf without referve to 
 the voluptuous defcription of the ifland, and of the pleafures 
 into wrhich the Portuguefe are plunged, thinks proper to inform 
 the reader, that this whole fiftion only implies the pleafure that 
 an honeft man feels in doing his duty. 
 
 The principal aim of the Portuguefe, after the eftablifhment 
 of their commerce, is the propagation of the faith, and Venus 
 takes the fuccefs of that cnterprize upon herfelf. To fpeak feri- 
 cufly, fuch an abfurd miracle disfigures the whole work in the 
 eyes of a fenfible reader ; but the beauty of the ftyle, and the 
 imagination in the exprefllon, have fuflained the reputation of 
 this poem. Thus the beauties of execution have clafled Paul 
 Veronefe among the greater painters, though he has placed 
 Benedidine monks and Swifs foldiers in fubjedts taken from the 
 Old Teftament. Camoens is perpetually guilty of the like ab- 
 furdities ; he quotes Ulyffes and ^neas to the king of Melinda, 
 as if an African barbarian underftood Homer and Virgil. But 
 of all the defe>fls in thi-s poem, the greateft is the little connec- 
 tion its parts have with each other ; it refembles the voyage it 
 defcribes. On the whole, the work contains many beauties, 
 and has delighted the Portuguefe nation for thefe laft two bun- 
 'dred years *. 
 
 In the 6th canto, (ftanza 43 to 68), a tale is told ^s hoiv twelve 
 Portuguefe knights went to England, towards the end of the four- 
 
 * Almoft all the foregoing remarks are tranflated from Voltaire. 
 
 teenth
 
 APPENDIX. 3S1 
 
 teenth century, and fought with, and vanquifhed twelve EngUflt 
 knights, who had afperfed the fame of the like number of 
 Englifh ladies, and had 
 
 *' Said they would prove that fuch and fuch of them, 
 
 " Had been too lavifh of their honor's gem." Fanshaw. 
 
 The whole poem is comprifed in ten cantos, and the total 
 number of ftanzas is 1 102 ; each ftanza confifting of eight lines. 
 
 There Is an old Spanifh tranflation of the Lufiad extant, but 
 I never could meet with it. 
 
 In 1655, an Englifh tranflation of the Lufiad was publiflied 
 by Richard Fanfhaw. This is a thin folio, without any notes, 
 but ornamented with the portraits of Camoens, Don Henry of 
 Portugal, and Vafco de Gama. In p. 299 of the prefent work, 
 I have inferted a ftanza from Camoens, which is thus tranflated 
 by Mr. Fanfliaw : 
 
 So a brifk lover in the bloody place 
 (His beauteous miftrefs by, in a balcon) 
 Seeks out the bull, and (planted face to face) 
 Curvets, runs, whiftles, waves, and toles him on; 
 But the ftern bruite, ev'n in a moment's fpace 
 (His horned brow low'd to the earth) doth run 
 Bellowing about like mad ; and (his eyes fhut) 
 Difmounts, ftrikes, kills, and tramples under-foot. 
 
 As
 
 382 APPENDIX. 
 
 As thia tranflation is very difficult to be met with, I fhall' 
 add another ftanza, as a fpecimen of the author's verli?- 
 fication. 
 
 Canto ix. v. 83. 
 
 O what devouring kifles (multiply'd). 
 What pretty whimp'rings did the grove repeat ! 
 What flatt'ring force ! what anger which did chide 
 Itfelf, and laught when it began to threat ! 
 What more than this, the blufhing morning fpy'd,. 
 And Venus, (adding her's to the noon's heat) 
 Is better try'd then guefs'd, I muft confefs : 
 But thofe who cannot try it, let them gu€fs. 
 
 The original runs thus : 
 
 O que famintos betjos naforejla, 
 E que mimofo choro, quefoava, 
 ^e of ago s taof naves, que ira honejlai, 
 ^e em rifinhos alegresfe tornava !. 
 O que mats pafsao na menliaa, & na fejla^. 
 ^e Venus com prazeres inflamdva, 
 Melhor he experiment ah, quejulgdlo, 
 Mas julgueo, que nao pode exprimentdlo. 
 
 In juftice to Camoens and to Fanfliaw, I beg leave to add' 
 part of Dona Ignez's pathetic fupplication to her hufoand's father, 
 who was determined to have her put to death.
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Para o ceo crijlalino levanta?2do 
 Com lagrimas os olhos ptedofos^ 
 Os olhas, porque as maos Ihe ejiava atando 
 Hum dos duros minijiros rignrofos : 
 E depois nos minims atentando, 
 ^e fao queridos tinha, & tao mimofos^ 
 Cuja orfandade como may temia. 
 Para o avb cruel ajji dizia. 
 
 O' tu, que tens de hiimano o gejio, & peito^ 
 fSe de humano he matar huma donzella 
 Fraca, & fern forga^ fo por terfugcito 
 O coracao, a quern foube iiencellaj 
 A ejias criancinhas tern refpeito, 
 Pois nao tens a morte efcura della^ 
 Movate a piedade fua^ & minhay 
 Pois te Tiao move a culpa^ que nab tinlnh 
 
 Thus tranflated : 
 
 Lifting unto the azure firmament 
 Her eyes, which in a fea of tears were drown 'd ; 
 Her eyes, for one of thofe malevolent 
 And bloody inftruments, her hands had bound ; 
 And then, the fame on her dear infant's bent. 
 Who them with fmiling innocence furround. 
 By whom poor orphans they will ftreight be made. 
 Unto their cruel grandfather thus faid : 
 
 O thou, 
 
 383
 
 384 APPENDIX. 
 
 O thou, wliofe fuperfcription fpeaks thee, man, 
 (That the contents were fuited to the cover ! 
 A feeble maid thou wouldft not murther than, 
 Onely for loving him, who firft did love her) 
 Pity thefe babes (the babes about him ran) 
 In thy hard doom fince I am fpot all over. 
 Spare, for their fakes, their lives, and mine : and fee 
 Whitenefs in them, though thou wilt not in me^ 
 
 I am informed that a Mr. Mickle of Oxford intends fhortly to 
 publiih another tranflation of this poem. 
 
 A French tranflation (in profe) of the Lufiad, was publiflied 
 by Duperon de Caftera, in three o£lavo volumes, with remarks. 
 This is the moll: defpicable tranflation that has ever difgraced 
 any work, and I fhall leave the reader to judge of the demerit of 
 the notes and explanations, by quoting a few of them. " In 
 *' this poem, Venus reprefents the Chriflian religion ; Bacchus, 
 " the devil ; Mercury, the angels, who are the meflJengers of 
 " God, in our religion, as he was the meffenger of Jupiter, in 
 *' that of the pagans. 
 
 " Mars reprefents Jefus Chrift : the allufion is natural enough ; 
 *♦ Jefus Chrift: has fhed his blood, he has fought for us, and his 
 *' goodnefs has furnifhed us with arms to combat vice ; we may, 
 " without a crime, call him the god of war, efpecially after 
 *' what St. John fays in the firft: chapter of the Revela- 
 ** tions : ' His voice was as the found of many waters : and he 
 
 "had
 
 APPENDIX. 385 
 
 ''* liad in his right-hand feven ftars; and out of his mouth went 
 *' a fharp two-edged fword.' This defcription does not ill be- 
 " come a warrior. As to what Camoens adds about the ancient 
 " love of Mars to Venus, it mufl: be underftood of the love of 
 " Jefus Chrifl; to the church. Cupid reprefents divine love, 
 " and ought always to accompany religion, which would with- 
 ■*' out it be a mere lifelefs beauty." 
 
 In the fecond canto, the ftory of Adleon is introduced, and 
 our ingenious commentator fays, " the myftical fenfe of this 
 *' fable, is, that if Adleon, and others who, like him, give a 
 " loofe to violent paflions, were to difcover the beauties of true 
 '" religion, they would be charmed with them. Mars, who is 
 <' Jefus Chrift, feels his heart penetrated with tendernefs on 
 " beholding the beauties of his religion. Vulcan, who is a De- 
 " mon as w^ell as Bacchus, conceives a cruel jealoufy on that ac- 
 *' count. Ail this is as it ought to be ; and far from criticifing 
 " our author, ought we not rather to admire the delicacy 
 " of his emblems, and the excellent ufe he makes of fabulous 
 •" hiftory?" 
 
 In the notes on the ninth canto, after the defcription of the 
 ifland where the Nereids amufe themfelves with the Portuguefe 
 failors, the explanator fays, " Poetry has always had a right to 
 " make ufe of corporal images, in order to teach us moral and 
 ^' metaphyfical knowledge ; not only Grecian and Latin authors, 
 *' but even the Pfalms of David, the Canticles of Solomon, &c. 
 ■**' .abound in the like allegories, &;c." 
 
 D d d By
 
 386 APPENDIX. 
 
 By this time I imagine the reader is fufficiently difgufted with- 
 this kind of remarks, fo that I fhall only add, that in one of the 
 notes on the fixth canto, its worthy author has commemorated 
 the names of the dozen knights who fo vaUantly fought for the 
 EngUfli ladies ; fays he, " I thought I fliould have ailed un- 
 " juftly hy thofe great men, if I had pafled over their names in 
 " filence; fo many perfonages are tranfmitted to pofterity who 
 *' do not deferve to be remembered, and fhould we refufe a few 
 *' lines to the memory of thofe who ought to ferve us for models? * 
 
 And this book was printed in Paris in 1768 !. 
 
 The new Paris edition of the works of Camoens, in three 
 duodecimo volumes, 1759 (in Portuguefe), contains, in the 
 firfl volume the Lufiad\ and, in the two others, upwards of 
 300 fonnets. A poem in three cantos, entitled. Of the Creation 
 and Compofition of Man, in 201 ftanzas. Two comedies in 
 verfe, each of a fingle ad : the one entitled, King SeleucuSj 
 and the other, The Amphitrions j and feveral pieces of mifcel- 
 laneous poetry. 
 
 TOWARDS the end of the fixteenth century, Spain 
 produced an epic poem, celebrated for the fingularity of 
 tlie fubjeft, as well as for fome peculiar beauties, but more fo 
 for the character of the author.. 
 
 Don Alonfo de Ercilla y Zuiiiga, knight of the order of 
 Santiago, and one of the gentlemen of the bed-chamber to 
 
 the
 
 APPENDIX. 387 
 
 ■tlie emperor Rodolf II. was born in Bifcay about the year 1540. 
 He was brought up from his youth in the palace, and in the 
 fervice of the emperor Charles V. he was afterwards page to 
 king Philip II. and accompanied that prince in his travels 
 through the Netherlands and Germany *. 
 
 Don Alonfo fought in the battle of St Quintin, and after- 
 wards, " impelled by an infatiable avidity of acquiring true 
 *' knowledge, that is to fay, to know men and to fee the world," 
 travelled through Spain, France, Italy, Germany, Hungary, 
 Bohemia, and England. When he was in London, he heard 
 that feveral provinces of Peru, and of Chili, had taken arms 
 againfl the Spaniards, their conquerors (this attempt of the 
 •Americans to recover their liberty, is treated as rebellion by the 
 ' 'Spanlfh authors) ; the paffion he had for glory, and the dehre 
 of feeing and undertaking extraordinary things, made him re- 
 -turn to Spain, and embark for thofe parts of the new world. He 
 landed in Chili with a few troops, and remained there during 
 the whole time of the war. 
 
 On the fouthern frontiers of Chili is a little mountainous 
 country, called Araucana, inhabited by a more ferocious and 
 Tobufl: race of men than is found in any other part of America. 
 They fought in defence of their liberty longer, and with more 
 
 * In the folio edition of tlie book, entitlcJ, V'uiji' de el Principe Don 
 Phclippe^ par Don Juan Clirijlavul Calvste de Ejhclla, printed at Antwerp in 
 4J52, Don Alonfo is frequently mention;d. 
 
 D d d 2 courage
 
 388 APPENDIX.. 
 
 courage than the reft of the Americans, and they were the lafl 
 that were fubdued by the Spaniards. Don Alonfo was expofed. 
 to many dangers durhig the profecution of the war ; he faw, and' 
 performed many furpriiing adions, of which the only reward- 
 was the honour of conquering rocks, and of reducing a few bar- 
 ren lands under the obedience of the king of Spain. 
 
 Don Alonfo during the war conceived the defign of immor- 
 talizing his enemies, by immortalizing himfelf : he was at the- 
 fame time the conqueror and the poet, writing at night the ac- 
 tions of the day*, and was frequently obliged to lay down his 
 pen and take up hisfword ; he fought in feven pitched battles, 
 and returned to Spain with the firft part of his ^raucana finifhed,. 
 when he had not yet attained to the age of twenty-nine years. Irj 
 1577, he publifhed the above-mentioned firft part j and, in 159c,. 
 the entire poem. He v/as then about forty-three years old; after- 
 which there is no mention made of him in hiftory, either regarding 
 his ftation, his works, or the time and place of his death. 
 
 His poem is divided into three parts, containing 37 cantos,. 
 and the total number of ftanzas is 2603, which is more than, 
 double the number of thofe of the Lufiad. 
 
 A continuation of the Araucana., by Don Dkgo de Santiftevan: 
 OforiOy is ufually bound with the original poem, in the Spanifll. 
 «ditions. This continuation is comprifed in 20 cantos, or about- 
 2300 ftanzas. 
 
 * EJlando afi una noche retirade, 
 
 Efcribur.do el fucejo de aquel dia. Canto xxiii. Stanza 61. 
 
 The-
 
 APPENDIX. 389 
 
 The poem Is called Araucmia^ from the country where the 
 events happened which are commemorated in it *. It begins 
 .with a geographical defcription of Chili, and with an account 
 of the manners and cuftoms of the inhabitants. Such a begin- 
 ning, which would be infupportable in any other poem, is necef- 
 fary here, where the fcene is laid beyond the other tropic, and 
 where the heroes are favages, who would always have remained 
 unknown to us, if they had not been conquered, and thus cele- 
 brated. The fubjedt which is novel, gave rife to fmgular 
 thoughts. I fhall give the reader one example, as a fpark of the 
 noble fire which fometimes animated our author. 
 
 *' The Araucanians, fays he, were greatly aftonifhed when 
 *' they faw creatures like men, carrying fire in their hands, and 
 " mounted upon monfters, which fought under them ; they at 
 •' firft thought them to be gods defcended from heaven, armed 
 " with thunder, and followed by deftrudion, which made them 
 " fubmit, however reludantly. But after a time, becoming fa- 
 " miliarifed with their conquerors, they difcovered their palTions 
 ^ and their vices, and judged that they were men. Afliamed 
 *' then of having crouched under mortals fimilar to themfelves, 
 ** they fwore they would wafli their error in the blood of thofe 
 « who were the caufe of it, and to execute an exemplary, terrible,. 
 " and memorable vengeance on them t-" 
 
 * Moft of the following remarks on this poem are tranfiatcd from 
 Voltaire. 
 
 t Canto i. ftanza 64. And, canto ii, ftanza 7, 
 
 Voltaire
 
 .;90 APPENDIX. 
 
 Voltaire has very juftly made a comparifon between Don 
 Alonfo and Homer, in regard to a particular paffage in the 
 works of each of thofe poets i and, in order to do juftice to the 
 Spaniard, I fhall give an extrad of the whole paffage, together 
 with Voltaire's judgment on it. 
 
 Part of the fecond canto contains a fubjeȣl which much re- 
 fembles the beginning of the Iliad, but by being treated in a 
 different manner, deferves to be placed under the eye of the im- 
 partial reader. The firfl aftion of the Araucana is a quarrel 
 which arlfes among the barbarian chiefs, as that betweea 
 Achilles and Agamemnon in Homer. The difpute is not about 
 a captive, but about the command of the army. Each of the 
 favage generals vaunts his merit and his exploits, and the dif- 
 pute grows {o warm, that they are ready to come to blows. 
 Then one of the Caciques (named Co/oco/o) as old as Neftor, but 
 lefs prejudiced in his own favour than the Grecian hero, makes 
 the following harangue. 
 
 " Caciques, illuflrious defenders of our country, it is not the 
 *' ambitious defire of commanding which engages me to fpeak 
 " to you. I do not complain that you fhould fo warmly difpute 
 " an honour which would be perhaps due to my age, and which 
 " would adorn my decline. It is my tendernefs for you, it is the 
 *' love that I owe to my country, which follicits me to demand 
 " your attention to my feeble voice. Alas ! how can we liave 
 '* an opinion of ourfelves good enough to pretend to any gran- 
 ** deur, and to be ambitious of pompous titles ; w^e who have 
 
 " been
 
 APPENDIX. 391 
 
 « been the unhappy fubjeds, and the flaves of the Spaniards. 
 ** Your anger, O Caciques, your fury, fhould they not be 
 " rather excrcifed againftour tyrants? Why do you turn againft 
 " yourfelves thofe arms which might exterminate our enemies, 
 " and revenge our country ? Ah ! if you will pcrifh, feek a 
 " death which will obtain glory. With one hand break the 
 " fliameful yoke, and with the other attack the Spaniards, and 
 *' do not fpill in a fterile quarrel the precious remains of that 
 " blood which the gods have left you to revenge yourfelves. 
 
 " I applaud, I own, the haughty emulation of your courage: 
 " that fame pride, which I condemn, augments the hopes 
 " which I conceive. But, let not your blind valour combat 
 " againft itfelf, and let it not, itfelf, deftroy the country it ought 
 " to defend. If you are refolvednot toceafeyour quarrels, plunge 
 *^ your blades into my frozen blood. I have lived too long: 
 " happy he who dies without Teeing his country-men unhappy, 
 *' and unhappy by their own fault ! Liften then to what I ven- 
 " ture to propofe to you : your valour, O Caciques, is equal ; 
 " you are all equally illuftrious by your birth, by your power, 
 ** by your riches, by your exploits : your fouls are equally 
 *• worthy of commanding, equally capable of fubjugating the 
 " univerfe. It is thofe celeftial prefents, which caufe your 
 " quarrels. You want a chief, and each of you deferves to be 
 " it ; thus, as there is no diftindion between your courages, 
 " let ftrength of body decide what the equality of your virtues 
 ** would never have decided, &;c." The old man then pro- 
 pofes an exercife worthy of a barbarian nation, to carry a large 
 
 and ;
 
 392 A P P E N D I X. 
 
 and heavy beam, and to grant the honour of command to hhn 
 who bears the weight of it longeft. 
 
 As the beft method of jerfeding our tafte, is to compare to- 
 gether things of a fimilar nature, let us oppofe the difcourfe of 
 Neftor to that of Colocolo, and renouncing that adoration which 
 our juftly prejudiced fenfes pay to the great name of Homer, 
 let us weigh the two harangues in the balance of equity and 
 reafon. 
 
 After Achilles^ infl:ru£led and infpired by Minerva, the 
 goddefs of Wifdom, has called Agameviuon a drunkard and a 
 dog ; the fage Nejior rifes to calm the irritated fpirits of thofe 
 two heroes, and fpeaks thus : 
 
 " What a fatisfadlion will the Trojans have when they hear 
 " of your difcords ? Your youth ought to refpe(£t my years, and 
 *' fubmit Itfelf to my counfels. I have formerly feen heroes 
 *' fuperior to you. No, my eyes will never more behold men 
 *' fimilar to the invincible Pirithoiis, to the brave Cineus, to 
 " the divine Thefeus, &c. I went to the wars with them, and 
 " though I was young, yet my perfualive eloquence had pov;-er 
 " over their minds. They liftened to Neftor: hearken then, 
 *' young warriors, to the advice which my age gives you. 
 " Atrides, you muft not retain the flave of Achilles ; fon of 
 *' "Thetis you muft not treat the chief of the army haughtily. 
 *' Achilles is the greateft, the moft courageous of warriors j Aga~ 
 " ;«(?//;«(?« is the greateft of kings, &c." 
 
 His
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 393 
 
 His fpeecli was infrudiuousj Agamemnon pralled his elo- 
 quence, and defpifed his advice. 
 
 Let us confider on one fjde the art with which the barbarian 
 Cohcolo infinuates himfelf into the minds of the Caciques, the 
 refpediable fweetnefs with which he calms their animofity, the 
 majefti^ tendernefs of his words, how much the love of his 
 country animates him; how much the fentiments of true glory 
 penetrate his heart •, with what prudence he praifes their cou- 
 rage, while he reprefles their fury ; with what fkill he gives 
 the fuperiority to no one : he is at once a dexterous cenfor and 
 panegyrift, fo that all fubmit to his reafonings, acknowledging 
 the force of his eloquence, not by vain praifes, but by fpeedy 
 obedience. On the other fide let us judge whether Nejior is 
 wife in talking fo much about his wifdom ; whether to contemn 
 the Grecian princes, and to place them below their anceftors, be 
 a fure method of engaging their attention ; whether the whole 
 alTembly with pleafure hears ISIeJlor fay, that Ad.illes is the 
 moft courageous of all the chiefs who are prefent. After hav- 
 ing compared t?ie prefumptuous and unpolite babbling of NcJI'jr 
 with the modeft and meafured difcourfe of Colocohy the odious 
 difference which he puts between the rank of Agamemnon and 
 the merit of Achilles, with the equal portion of grandeur and 
 courage artfully attributed to all the Caciques, let the reader 
 pronounce; and if there be a general in the world, who willing- 
 ly fufters his inferior to be preferred to him in point of courage; 
 if there be an aflembly, the members of which will patiently 
 
 E e e endure
 
 394- APPENDIX. 
 
 endure an orator to talk of them contemptuoufly, and brag of 
 their anceftors at their expence, then Homer may be preferred to 
 Alonfo in this particular cafe. 
 
 It is true, that if Alonfo in one only paflage is fuperior to 
 Horner^ he is in almoft all the reft of his poem inferior to the 
 leaft of poets : one is furprifed to fee him fall fo low after hav- 
 ing taken fuch a high flight. There is, without doubt, much 
 fire in his battles, but no invention, no plan, no variety in the 
 defcriptions, no unity in the defign. His poem is more favage 
 than the nations which are the fubjed. of it. Towards the end 
 of the work, the author, who is one of the principal heroes of 
 the poem, performs a long and tedious march during the night, 
 followed by a few foldiers, and, to pafs the time, he difpute& 
 with them about Virgil, and principally on the epifode of Dido. 
 Ke takes this opportunity of entertaining his foldiers with an ac- 
 count of Didoes, death, as it is told by ancient hiftorians ; and, 
 in order the better to give Virgil the lie, and reftore the reputa- 
 tion of the queen of Carthage, he amufes himfelf with dlfcourf- 
 ing upon this fubjedl during the greateft part of two cantos 
 (3 2d and 33d). 
 
 There are no other works of Don Alonfo extant befides the 
 Araucana^ except a fmall Elegy of four ftanzas, which is 
 publifhed in the fecond volume of the Spanifi Parnafflis^ 
 together with a head of the author, engraven by CajmAui. 
 
 The
 
 APPENDIX. 395 
 
 The Araticana has never (to the bell of my knowledge) been 
 tranflated. 
 
 As a fpecimen of the author's poetry, I fhall infert the ipeecli 
 of Colocolo to the Caciques. 
 
 Colocolo, el cacique mas anclanot 
 A razonar afi^ tomb la mano. 
 
 " Caciques del EJlado defetiforeSf 
 Codicia de mandar no me convida 
 A' pefarme de veros pret en/ores 
 De cofa, que a nil tanto era debida j 
 For que fegiin mi edad, yk veis^ Jenores^ 
 ^le ejloy al otro mundo de partida ; 
 Mas el amor, quejiempre os he mojlrado.^ 
 A bien aconfejaros ?ne ha incitado. 
 
 " Par que cargos honrofos pretendemosy 
 Tfer en opinion grande tenidos, 
 Pues que negar al mundo no podemos 
 Haber Jido fujetos^ y vencidos ? 
 T en ejio averiguarnos no queremos, 
 EJiando aun de Efpanoles oprimidos : 
 Mejor fuera ejlafuria egecutalla. 
 Contra eljiero enemigo en la bat-alla. 
 
 " ^^ furor es el vuejlro^ 6 Araucanos 
 ^e a perdicion os llevafinfentillo ? 
 Contra vuejlras entranas teneis manos. 
 Y no contra el tirano en rejijltllo ? 
 
 £ e e 2 ' Teniendo
 
 396t APPENDIX. 
 
 T(niendo tan a golpe a los Chrijiianos, 
 Voheis contra vojotroi el cuchillo P 
 Si gatia de morir os ha movido., 
 Nofea en tan hajo ejiado, y abatido. 
 
 " Vohed las armas, y animofuriofo 
 A los pechos de aquellos que os lian puejia 
 En dura fujecion^ con afrentofo 
 Partido, a todo el mundo manifiejlo :- 
 Lanzad de vos elyugo ijergonzofo : 
 Mojlrad viiejiro valor y fuerza en ejio : 
 No derrameis lafangre del Ejiado^ 
 ^e para redimir nos ha quedado. 
 
 ** No me pefa de ver la lozama 
 De vuejlro corazon^ antes me esfuerza ;. 
 Mas temo que ejia vuejira valentra 
 Par mal goblerno, el biien c amino tuerza : 
 ^ue vuelta entre nofotros laporfta, 
 Degollais vuejlra patria con fu fuerza : 
 Cor tad, pues, fi ha defer de ejla manerai 
 Efa vieja garganta^ la primer a. 
 
 " ^e ejlaflaca perfona, atormentada 
 De golpes de fort una, no procura 
 Sino el agudo filo de una efpada^ 
 Pues no la acaba tania defventura ■: 
 Aquella vida es bien afortunada, 
 ^ue la temprana muerte la afegura ; 
 
 Pero
 
 APPENDIX. 397 
 
 Pero d nuejiro bien publico atendlendo, 
 ^iero decir en ejio lo que entiendo. 
 
 " Pares fois en valor y fort aleza : 
 El cielo OS igualo en el nacimiento : 
 De linage y de ejlado, y de riqueza 
 Hizo a todos igual repartimiento ; 
 T enfmgular por dnimo y grandeza 
 Podeis tener del mundo el regimiento : 
 ^e ejle graciofo don no agradecido, 
 Nos lid al prefente termino traido. 
 
 " En la virtud de vuejiro brazo efperOt 
 ^e puede en breve tiempo remediarfe-^ 
 Mas hd de haber iin capitan primero, 
 ^ue todos por ^l quieran gobernarfe : 
 EJleferd quien mas un gran madero 
 Sufretitare en el hombrojin pararfe ; 
 T plies quefois iguales en lafucrte, 
 Proctire cada qual defer tnas fiierteJ* 
 
 Ningun hombre dejb de ejldr atento, . 
 Oyendo del anciano las razones ; 
 T puejlo ydfilencio al parlamentOy 
 Hubo entre ellos diverfas opiniones : 
 Alfin^ de general confentimiento, 
 Sigiiiendo las mejores intencio/zes, 
 Por todos los Caciques acordado 
 Lo propuejlo del viejafue aceptado.- 
 
 The.
 
 398 APPENDIX. 
 
 The works of Cervantes, Quevedo, and Feijoo, are too 
 well known in England to need any commemoration here. 
 
 Of the books of Phyfic, Law, and Divinity, which fwarm 
 in the Spanifli and Portuguefe languages, as well as in others, I 
 (hall fay nothing, becaufe I underftand them not. 
 
 In 1768, the firft volume, in odavo, of a work entitled 
 El Parjiafo Efpanoli was publiihed in Madrid. In 1770, three 
 more volumes appeared, and a volume in each of the three fub- 
 fequent years. This work is a collection of the heft Spanifh 
 poems, and fugitive poetical pieces, with fome account of the 
 lives of the authors, and a fhort criticifm on each piece, very 
 beautifully printed, and ornamented with twelve elegant cop- 
 per-plates, all engraven by Carmona. I fhall give a fhort ac- 
 count of the contents of each volume, and prefent the reader 
 with fome of the moll feled; pieces, with the tranflations as lite- 
 rally as the two languages will permit. After a frontifpiece, 
 reprefenting Apollo fitting among the Mufes, the work opens 
 with a tranflation of Horace's Art of Poetry, by Vincent 
 Efpinel. 
 
 Then follow twenty- two canzonets, feledled from the forty-four, 
 compofed by D. Efleban Manuel de Villegas, under the title 
 of DclicLis. 
 
 Several detached pieces. 
 
 A Madrigal, by Lewis Martin, as follows : 
 
 Iba
 
 APPENDIX. 399 
 
 Iba cogiendo fores, 
 
 T guardando en lafalda 
 
 Mi n'tnfa, para hacer una guirnalda ; 
 
 Mas primero las toca 
 
 A' los rofados labtos defu boca, 
 
 T les da defu aliejito los olores j 
 
 T ejlaba fporfu bienj entre una rofa 
 
 TJna abeja efcondida^ 
 
 Su duke humor hurlando ; 
 
 Y como en la hermofa 
 
 Flor de los la bios fe hallo., atrevida^ 
 
 La pica., faco miel^t fttefe volando. 
 
 '< My nymph coUeded flowers into her lap, in order to 
 *' make a garland ; but fhe firfl applies them to her rofy lips, 
 " and with her breath gives them their odour. A bee (happily 
 *' for it) was hidden within a rofe, Healing its fweets ; and, 
 " when it approached the beautiful flower of her lips, it 
 *' boldly ftung them, extraded honey out of them, and 
 " flew away.'* 
 
 A Sonnet hy Liipercio Leonardo de Argenfola. 
 
 tras importuna lluvias amanece 
 Coronando los monies elfolclaro> 
 Alegre falta el Labrador avaroy 
 ^w las horas ociofas aborrece. 
 
 La
 
 4CO APPENDIX. 
 
 X,a corvafrenie al duro yugo ofrece 
 Del animal, que a Eiiropafue tan caro, 
 Sale de fu famUia fuerie awparo, 
 T los Jurcos folicito enriquece. 
 
 Vuehe de noche dfii muger lionejlay 
 ^e Itimbre, mefa, y lecho le apercibct 
 T el enjambre de hijos le rodea. 
 
 Faciles cojas cena con gran fiejla^ 
 Elfuenojin embidia le recibe. 
 O corte^ 6 confujion, qtiien te defea I 
 
 " The bright fun rifes, among importunate rains, crown- 
 *' ing the mountains : the greedy labourer abhors idle hours, 
 " and goes joyfully to work ; he offers to the yoke the bent 
 *' neck of the animal, which was fo dear to Europa ; he is the 
 " flrong fupport of his family, and carefully enriches the fur- 
 " rows ; he returns at night to his honeft wife, who prepares 
 " fire, table, and bed for him, and his fwarm of children en- 
 " virons him : he eats his light fupper with great content, fleep 
 *' receives him without envy. O court, O confufion, who de- 
 ** fires thee ! 
 
 A Sonnet by Chrijloval Suarez de Figueroa. 
 
 O bienfeliz el que la "jtda pafa 
 Sin ver del que gobierna el apofento^ 
 T }nas quien deja el cortefano afiento 
 For la hiimildad de la pajiza cafal 
 
 £>ue
 
 APPENDIX. 401 
 
 ^<r nunca teme iinafortima efcafa 
 I)e agena envidia el ponzonofo client : 
 ^' la plant a mayor perfigiie el viento ; 
 A' la torre mas aha el rayo abrafa, 
 
 Contento ejloy de mi medianajuerte : 
 El podero/o en fu deidad rejida : 
 Mayor felicidad yo no prociiro : 
 
 Pues la quietud fagrada al hombre advierte 
 Ser para el corto efpacio de la "oida 
 El mas humildo ejiado, masfeguro. 
 
 *' O happy is he who pafTes his life without entering into 
 " the dwelling of thofe who govern, and who abandons 
 *' courts for the humility of a cottage ! who never fears a 
 " fcanty fortune, nor is tainted by the poifonous breath of 
 '* envy. The talleft trees are moft perfecuted by the winds, 
 " and the higheft towers are fooneft flruck by lightning. I am 
 ** content with my middling ftation, let the powerful enjoy 
 " their grandeur, I defire no greater happinefs. Becaufe facred 
 *' quietude teaches, that for the fliort time we are allotted to 
 *' live, the moft humble ftation is the moft fecure." 
 
 Nine of Virgil's Eclogues by various hands. 
 
 The twentieth Epigram of the firft book of Martial, begin- 
 ing, Si memini fuerant tibi quaiiior., JElia, denies, &c. thus 
 tranllated by Bart hoi . Leonardo de Argenjola, 
 
 F f f Sinatra
 
 402^ APPENDIX. 
 
 ^atro dientes te quedaron 
 fSi bien me acuerdoj ; mas dos,. 
 Elia, de una tos volaron, 
 Los otros dos de otro tos. 
 Seguramente tofer 
 Puedes ya todos los diast 
 Pues no tiende en tus encias 
 La t ere era tos que hacer *.. 
 
 The Aminta of 'tajfoy tranflated into Spanifli blank verfe, by^ 
 Z). "Juan de "Jauregui., in 1 607. 
 
 The following celebrated paflage in the firft fcene of the: 
 firft ad: 
 
 Forfe, fe tii gujlajji anco una volta. 
 La millefima parte de le gioie^ 
 Che gufla un cor amato riamandot, 
 Direjii, ripentita, fofplrando r 
 Perduto e tut to il tempo., 
 Che in amar non Ji fpende -, , 
 O miafuggita etate 
 ^lante vedove notti, 
 
 * This has been tranflated into Englifti, beginning, 
 
 ♦' When Gammer Gurton firft I knew, 
 " Four teeth in all flie reckon'd, &c." 
 
 It is to be found in an old fong-book, called The Nightingale, 
 
 ^uanii
 
 APPENDIX. 403 
 
 ^lantt difolltari 
 
 Ho confiimato indarno, 
 
 Che Ji poteano impiegar in queji* ufo, 
 
 11 qual piu replicatOt e piufoave. 
 
 Cangia., cangia conjiglio, 
 
 Pazzarella chefei: 
 
 Che ^l pentlrji dafezzo nulla giova. 
 
 Is thus tranflated: 
 
 2«, por 'Ventura, Ji una vez gujiafes 
 ^alquier minima parte del contento 
 ^ue goza un corazon amante, amado, 
 Dijeras fufpirando arrepentida : 
 Todo el tiempofe pierde, 
 ^e en amar nofe gajla : 
 O" mis pa/ados anost 
 juntas prolijas noches, 
 pantos fihejlres folitarios dias 
 He conjumido en vano, 
 ^le pudiere ocuparlos 
 En ejios amorofos pafatiempos I 
 Muday muda de intento, 
 Si?7iplecilla de it, que no te entiendes 
 T arrepentirfe tarde import a poco. 
 
 " Perhaps if thou wert only once to tafte the thoufandth 
 ♦' part of the happinefs which is enjoyed by a heart loving and 
 
 F f f 2 " beloved ; 
 
 ^i
 
 404 APPENDIX. 
 
 *' beloved ; thou \vouldfl; fay, repenting and fighing, loft is 
 
 " all that time which is not fpent in loving ! O my paft years, 
 
 " how many widowed nights, how many folitary days have 
 
 " I not confumed in vain ? and which might have been employ- 
 
 " ed in amorous paftimes, ish'ich are the more fweet the more 
 
 " cften they are repeated'^. Change, O change thy opinion, 
 
 *' fimple girl as thou art, for repentance is of no fervice when 
 
 " it is too late." 
 
 The ladies will not, I hope, be difpleafed at here finding this 
 fame paflage as A'erfified by William Ayre, efpecially as the ad- 
 vice which is contained in it merits attention. 
 
 " Could I to thy foul reveal, 
 *' But the leaft, the thoufandth part, 
 " Of thofe pleafures, lovers feel 
 *' In a mutual change of heart ; 
 " Then, repenting, wouldft thou fay, 
 " Virgin fears from hence remove, 
 *' All the time is thrown away, 
 *' That we cannot fpend in love. 
 " Years are paft, and took their flrght,, 
 '* Foolifh days of coy difdain 
 *' Oh! how many a widowed night!; 
 «' Paft alone and paft in vain, 
 
 * This line is in the Italian, but not in the Spanifh. 
 
 " Hours;
 
 APPENDIX. 4.05 
 
 ** Hours that in love employ'd, 
 
 « Could with blifs the fenfes fill ; 
 
 " BlifTes, that the more enjoy'd 
 
 " Greater grow, and fweeter ftill. 
 
 " Ah! change thy carriage, change thy heart, 
 
 " Late repentance caufes fmart ; 
 
 " What a filly girl thou art !" 
 
 The fecond volume contains the portraits of Garcilafo de la 
 Vega, and of Don Alonfo de Ercilla y Zuiiiga. It begins with 
 Eclogues by Garcilafo ; then follows the difpute of Ajax and 
 Ulyfles about the arms of Achilles, 
 
 Anacreon, tranflated in fixty monoflrophes, by D. Efteban 
 Manuel de Villegas. 
 
 The Judgment of Paris, an epic fable, on occafion of the 
 public entry which Don Ferdinand VI. made into Madrid in 
 3746, by D. Ignacio de Luzan. 
 
 The greateft part of tlie fecond canto of the Araucana be- 
 fore mentioned. 
 
 The Gatomachia, or Battle of the Cats, a burlefque epic poem, 
 by Lope de Vega, under the fictitious name of Thome de Bur- 
 guillos. This is a poem of ninety-feven pages in verfe, divided 
 into {^Ntxvfilvas. Thea follow a great number of fmaller poems. 
 
 The third volume contains the portraits of Frey Lope Feliz de 
 Vega Carph, and of Dr. Barthol. Leonardo de Argen/ola. 
 
 About?
 
 406 APPENDIX. 
 
 About a tli'ird part of this volume confifts of poems "by dc 
 Vega, among which are the following : 
 
 Amarillis, an Eclogue of fifty pages. 
 
 A fhort poem, entitled the Flea. 
 
 A Sonnet compofed of hard words, which concludes thus : 
 ♦* Underftand'fl thou, Fabio, what I am faying ? How, fhould 
 *' I not underftand it ! Thou liefl Fabio, for I myfelf do not 
 *' underftand it." 
 
 In the feventh volume, I find a fonnet by Pedro Efplnofa, 
 ■which, after a deal of pompous nonfenfe, concludes thus : 
 *' Thou who read'ft this, do not be afraid if thou underftand'fl: 
 *' it not, becaufe even I who made it do not underftand it, fo 
 *' help me God." 
 
 A Sonnet by D. Manuel de Velafco. 
 
 ^ieres fer gran Senor ? pout e fever o : 
 Giijia de fabandijas : ten enano : 
 Con los picaros fe 7nuy cortefano, 
 T con la gente hotirada muy grofero : 
 
 Monta de quando en quando par cochero : 
 Lleva a pa/ear tus tnulas en verano : 
 Haz defear lo que penda de tu mano j 
 T olvidate de que eres ca bailer o. 
 
 Si te pide el rendido, tuerce el gejio : 
 De agena bolfa no efcafees gajio : 
 Para las vanidades echo i7 rejlo. 
 
 Solo
 
 APPENDIX. 407 
 
 Solo con tu JTiiiger /eras muy cajio : 
 Pi'dey debe, no pagues ; que con ejioy 
 Si no eres gran Senor, /eras gran trajlo. 
 
 " Doft thou defire to be a great lord? be haughty; have a' 
 ** tafte for butterflies ; keep a dwarf; be very, civil to rogues, 
 " and very rude to honeft people : get upon the coach-box and 
 ** drive thy own mules in fummer-time : with-hold what is in 
 ** thy power to beftow, and forget that thou art a gentleman. 
 " If a favour is begged of thee, turn thy face away: fpare not 
 " another's purfe, and fquander every thing upon vanities. 
 *' With thy wife alone be chafte ; demand, owe, and pay not ; 
 " and by thefe means, if thou art not a great lord, thou art a 
 " great rafcal."^ 
 
 The Dodrine of Epidetus, feventy pages, tranflated by Don; 
 Francifco de Quevedo Villegas. 
 
 Phocilides, tranflated by the fame hand, twenty pages. 
 The Fable of Apollo and Daphne, in burlefque verfe, by Ja*- 
 einto Polo de Medina. 
 
 Seven Epigrams by the fame, one of which is 
 Cavando unfepidcro un hombre. 
 Saco largo, corvo y griiefo, 
 E,7itre otros miichos- un hitefo, 
 ^e tiene cuerno for nombre : 
 
 Volviolo alfepulcro al piinto;, 
 T'Diendoloun cortefano^. 
 
 Dijo ;•
 
 4o8 APPENDIX. 
 
 Dijo : bien haceis, hennano, 
 Slue es huefo de efe difunto. 
 
 " A man who was digging in a grave, among many other 
 " bones found a large horn, which he buried carefully again. 
 " Another perfon feeing this, faid. Thou doeft well, brother, 
 " becaufe that is one of the bones of the perfon who was here 
 " interred." 
 
 After feveral detached poems, this volume concludes with a 
 fong by the Licentiate Dueiias. The laft couplet contains a very 
 falle and unjuft fatire on the ladies. 
 
 — ya 710 te quejes de mugeres ; 
 
 TJt quejarte qiiieres. 
 
 Forma de mt qiierellas. 
 
 For que mejie de ellas : 
 
 ^ue entonces la nniger cs buena clerto 
 
 ^lando es malay perverfa al deftub'ierto. 
 
 " Do not complain of women, but if thou wilt com- 
 
 *' plain, complain of me who have trufted them ; for a woman 
 *' is moft certainly good when fhe is openly perverfe and wicked." 
 
 The fourth volume is decorated with the portraits of Don 
 Diego Hurtado de Mendoza and Quevedo. 
 
 The
 
 APPENDIX. 409 
 
 The moll remarkable pieces It contains are the following : 
 A Sonnet by Don Diego, and anotlier on the fame fubjed 
 by Lope de Vega. This laft has been tranflatcd into Englifh, 
 and publifhed in Dodfley's CoUedlion of Poems, which I hope 
 to be pardoned for inferting here after the Spanifl-i originals. 
 
 Sonnet by Don Diego Hurt ado de Memioza. 
 
 Pedis, Reyna^ unfoneto, y ya le hago : 
 Ta el primer verfo y el fe gun do es hecho : 
 Si el tercero me f ale de provecho 
 Con otro verfo d iin quart efo os pago. 
 
 Ta llego al quinto : E/paiia I Santiago ! 
 Fuera, que entro en elfejio : fus, buen pecho : 
 Si delfetimofalgo, gran derecho 
 T'engo a falir con vida de ejle trago. 
 
 Ya tenemos a un caho los quart etos : 
 ^e me decis, fenora ? no ando bravo f 
 Mas fab e Diosfitemo los tercetos. 
 
 Yf con bien ejle foneto acabo, 
 Nunca en todo mi vida masfonetos 
 Slue de ejle, gloria a Dios, ya be vijlo el cabc. 
 
 " You afk a fonnet, my queen, I am making it ; 
 ■*' The firft and fecond verfes are already made; 
 " If the third fucceeds happily, 
 *' I ftiall pay you with one couplet. 
 
 G g g "I have
 
 4IO APPENDIX. 
 
 " I have now got to the fifth line ; Spain! St. James ! 
 " Softly, I enter into the fixth, courage : 
 " If I get through the feventh, it will be a great adion, 
 •' I muft get out of this fcrape with life. 
 
 " Now 1 have finiflied the quadruplets : 
 " What do you fay, madam ? do not I proceed finely ? 
 " But God knows if I fear the triplets. 
 
 " And if I end this fonnet happily, 
 " No more fonnets during my life 
 " As I have, glory be to God, concluded this one. 
 
 Sonnet by Lope de Vega. 
 
 JJnfoneto me manda hacer viol ante, 
 ^e en mi vida me he vijio en tal aprieto :■ 
 Catorce verfos dicen que esfoneto : 
 Burla burlando "uan los tres de/ante. 
 
 To penfe que no hallara confonante, 
 Y ejioy a la mitad de otro quarteto j 
 Masfi me veo en el primer terceto. 
 No hay cofa en los quartetos que me efpante. 
 
 Por el primer terceto voy entrando, 
 Taun parece que entre con pie derecho, 
 Puesjin con ejle verfo le voy dando. 
 
 Ta eJloy en elfegundo, y aunfofpecho 
 §lue voy los trece verfo^s acabando : 
 Contadfifon catorce, y ejla hecho. 
 
 Thus
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 4U 
 
 Thus tranflated by Mr. Roderick. 
 
 *' Capricious B .... a fonnet needs muft have, 
 
 " I ne'er was fo put to 't before : a fonnet ! 
 
 " Why fourteen verfes muft be fpent upon it j 
 
 " 'Tis good howe'er t' have conquer'd the firft ftavc. 
 
 " Yet I fhall ne'er find rhymes enough by half, 
 " Said I, and found myfelf i'th' midft o'the fecond. 
 " If twice four verfes were but fairly reckon'd, 
 " I fhould turn back on th'hardeft part and laugh. 
 
 " Thus far with good fuccefs I think I've fcribbled, 
 " And of the twice feven lines have clean got o'er ten. 
 " Courage! another '11 finifli the firft triplet. 
 
 " Thanks to thee, Mufe, my work begins to fhorten, 
 " There's thirteen lines got through, driblet by driblet. 
 ■" 'Tis done ! count how you will, I warr'nt there's fourteen." 
 
 Sonnet by an unknown hand, 
 
 E/ que tiene muger mozay hermofa 
 ^e bufca en cafa de muger agetia ? 
 Lajliya es menos blanca ? es mas morena? 
 Esfria., fioja^ Jlaca ? no hay tal cofa. 
 
 Es defgraciada ? no, fino graciofa, 
 Es mala ? nopor cierlo, ftno biiena : 
 Es una FentiSy una Sirena, 
 Unfrefco lirio^ y una blanca rofa. 
 
 G.ggz - Pucs
 
 412 appendix:.. 
 
 Pues que biifca ? do va ? de donde viene ? 
 Mejor que la que tiene pienfa hallarla ? 
 Ha deferju bufcar en infijiito ? 
 
 No btifca el muger, que ya la tiene : 
 Bujca el trabajo dulce de bufcarla^ 
 Slue es el que cnciende al hotnbre el apetito, 
 
 *' He who has got a young and beautiful wife, what does he 
 *' feek in the houfe of another man's wife ? is his own lefs fair? 
 " is fhe more brown ? is fhe cold, idle, weak ? No fuch thing. 
 " Is fhe deformed ? No, fhe is graceful. Is fhe wicked ? No 
 " certainly, fhe is virtuous; fhe is a Venus, a Syren, a frefh 
 " lily, and a white rofe. What does he then feek? whither 
 " goes he ? whence comes he ? does he think to find a better 
 " than he has gotten ? is his fearch to be endlefs ? Pie does not 
 " feek a wife, for he has one already ; he feeks the fwcet la- 
 *' hour of fearching, which alone excites the appetite of man." 
 
 The two Odes of Sappho, tranflated by Don Ignacio de- 
 Luzan. 
 
 The firft, which is the Hymn to Venus, is too long to have 
 a place here. In the Spectator, N' 223, the Englifh reader- 
 may fee a tranflation of it. 
 
 The fecond is tranflated, as Mr. Addilbn, in the 229th N° of 
 the Spcdator, fays of the Latin tranflation by Catullus, " With 
 ♦' the fame fliort turn of ^xprefTion, which is fo remarkable ia^ 
 " the Greek, and fo peculiar to the Sapphic Ode." 
 
 ALs
 
 APPENDIX. 4,3 
 
 A Ids celejles diqfes me parece 
 Igual aquel que junto a ttfentado 
 De cerca efcucha como dulcemente 
 
 Hablas, y como 
 Duke te ries ; lo que a mi del todo 
 Dentro del pecho el corazon me abrafa. 
 Mas ay ! que al verte., en la garganta un nudo 
 
 De habla me priva : 
 Se me entorpece la lengua, y por todo 
 El cuerpo unfuego rapido difcurre : 
 De Jos ojos no veo : los oidos 
 
 Dentro me zumban .* 
 Toda yo tiemblo: defudor elado 
 Toda jne ciibro : al amarillo roflra 
 Toco fait ando parafer de veras '■ 
 
 Muerta parezcox. 
 
 In the above mentioned SpeSiator is a French, tranflatioaby 
 Boileau, and likewife an Englifh one, which are in every body's 
 hands. 
 
 In Dodfley's colleftion *, is an imitation from the Spanifh 
 poem of Quevedo, upon Orpheus and his wife, by the Reverend 
 Dr. Lifle, beginning " When Orpheus went down to the re- 
 gions below." The original (which confifts of forty lines) is in 
 the third volume of Quevedo's works, quarto edition. It ends 
 
 * And likewife in thofe by Aikin and Donaldfon. 
 (See Dodlley vol, 2. p. 230:) 
 
 thus;:
 
 414 APPENDIX. 
 
 thus: " Happy is the married man, who once becomes fingle, 
 " but fuperlatively happy is he who twice gets rid of one 
 «« wife." 
 
 In the volume of el Parn/tfo, of which I am now giving 
 an account, is a ihort poem on the fame fubjedl by the 
 fame hand. 
 
 ^l Ljfierno el Tracio Orfe'o 
 Su muger bajb a bufcar, 
 Sliie no piido a peor liigar 
 Llevarle tan mal defeo. 
 
 Canto, y al mayor torments 
 Pufo fufpenfion y efpanto 
 Idas que lo duke del canto 
 La novedad del intento. 
 
 El dios adujlo ofendido^ 
 Con tin ejlrano rigor 
 La pena que hallo mayor 
 Fue volverle kfer marido. 
 
 y aunquefu muger le dio 
 For pena defu pecado. 
 For premio de lo cant ado 
 Perderla fa ditto, 
 
 " The Thracian Orpheus defcended into hell to feek his wife, 
 *' as he could not go to a worfe place on fuch a bad errand. He 
 " fun^, and fufpended the greateft torments, not fo much by 
 
 «' the
 
 APPENDIX. 415 
 
 « the fweetnefs of his fong, as by the novelty of his intention. 
 *' The ftern god was offended, and as the moft rigorous punifh- 
 " ment he could devife, permitted him. again to become a huf- 
 *' band. But though he gave him his wife again to punifh him 
 " for his crime, yet to reward him for his mufic, he put him in 
 the way of getting rid of her." 
 
 <{ 
 
 Sonnet by the fame, never before publifhed.. 
 
 £/?^ es la informacion, ejle el ■procefo 
 Del hombre que ha defer canonizado, 
 En qiiien, Ji es que vio el fnundo algiin pecado, 
 Advirtio penitencia con exafo : 
 
 Doce anos enjufnegra ejluvo prefo, 
 A muger y Jin fiieldo condenado : 
 Vivio bajo el poder defii ctinado : 
 Tuvo un hijo no masy tonto y traviefo : 
 
 Nunca ricofe vib con oro b cobre : 
 Vivib Jiempre contejito, aiinque defnudo : 
 No hay incomodidad que no le Jobre : 
 
 Vivib entre un herrador y un tartamudo :: 
 Fue mar fir, porquefue cafado y pobre : 
 Hizo iin milagro y fue nofer cornudo. 
 
 «' This is the information and procefs of the man who is to 
 « be canonized ; and who, if ever he committed any tin, did 
 « fuperabundant penance for it. He was during twelve years 
 " dominated by his ftep-mother, was condemned to a wife,. 
 
 " without;
 
 415 APPENDIX. 
 
 •*' without wages, lived under the power of a coufin, and had 
 «' an only Ibn, who was hoth foolifh and diforderly. He 
 " never poflefled either gold or copper; he lived always con- 
 «' tentedly, though he was almoft deftitute of clothing, and 
 ■" overloaded with afflidions : he lived between a blackfmith and 
 " a ftutterer; he was a martyr, becaufe he was married and 
 " poor; and he performed one miracle, which was, that he 
 " never was a cuckold/* 
 
 It appears rather extraordinary to meet with fuch a fonnet In 
 a book licenfcd by the inquifition. 
 
 The next poem I find worthy of notice is a Treatife on Paint- 
 ing, by Pablo de Cefpede, painter and poet* : it contains feven- 
 ty-fix flanzas, each of eight lines. One of the fineft paflages in 
 this poem is the defcription of the horfe : the author has made 
 great ufe of Job's fublime defcription of that noble animal, fee 
 Job, chap, xxxix. 
 
 Sonnet by Lupercio LeoJiardo de Argenfola, 
 
 ^ien cafamiento ha vijlofm enganos^ 
 Y masfi en dote cuentan la hcrmofura ? 
 . Co/a que hajla gozarlafolo dura^ 
 T OS deja al defpertar con defenganos. 
 
 menos en la hacienda, o mas los aiios : 
 T alfin la que parece masfegura 
 
 * His name Is mentioned in p. 311 of this work.
 
 A P 4> E N D I XT. 417 
 
 ISFo ejlafm una punta de locura, 
 
 T a veces con remiendos de otros dams. 
 
 Mucho debes a yulia, Fabio amigOy 
 Sliie de tantos peligros te ha librado 
 Con negarte lafe que te debia. 
 
 Til de que engana al otro eres tejligo^ 
 T lloras no haver Jido el enganado f 
 Riete fino quieres que me r'la.. 
 
 " Who has ever feen a marriage without fraud, more efpe- 
 ** cially if beauty be part of the portion ? which lafts no longer 
 *' than till it be enjoyed, and leaves one to wake undeceived. 
 
 *' Either the years of the woman are more, or her eftate is 
 " lefs J and even in the fafefl way marriage is a kind of folly, 
 ** and only patches up the evils it wifhed to mend. 
 
 " Friend Fabius, thou oweft much to Julia, who has per- 
 *' mitted thee to efcape fo many perils, by denying thee her' 
 " hand ; and doft thou, who art witnefs to the deceit ufed to 
 " others, lament that thou art not the party deceived ? Laugh, 
 " if thou wilt not have me laugh at thee." 
 
 A Sonnet fuppofed to be written by Don Diego de Mendoza.- 
 
 No hay CO fa mas gajlada., ni traida^ 
 ^e la fay a de Ines, y el pobre manto : 
 JJn cerrojo de carcel no lo es tanto, 
 Ni la play a del marjiempre batida : 
 
 Hhh No^
 
 4^5 APPENDIX. 
 
 No Ics da Jwra de huelga la perdida. 
 En Pafcua, ni Domingo, ni Difdfjto 
 2'" tanto los aqueja, que vie ejpanto ; 
 
 Como no dan al trajle con la vida. 
 
 La rueda de Ixlon, que no fojiega, 
 Tfu pena infernal 'que no repofa 
 Refpeto de ejle manto efta parada. 
 
 Pero la mi/ma Ines tiene otra cofa 
 ^lefu perfona y ella no lo niega., 
 ^e ejia muy mas traiday mas gajlada. 
 
 " There is nothing more common, nor more worn than the 
 " cloak and petticoat of Agnes; a prifon-bolt is not more ufed, 
 " nor yet the fhores which are eternally beaten by the waves : 
 " their miftrefs never fuffers them to reft either on Sundays or 
 " holidays, and ufes them fo much, that I wonder they are not 
 " fretted to pieces. The wheel of Ixion, which never refts, 
 ** and the never-ceafmg pain it inflidts, ftand ftill in compari- 
 " fon with this cloak. Neverthelefs the fame Agnes has another 
 *' thing of which fhe is very liberal, and which is much more 
 .*' worn, and much more often ufed." 
 
 This fonnet is fomewhat in the ftyle of one of Shenftone's 
 Levities^ which begins 
 
 " Let Sol his annual journies run." 
 
 The
 
 APPENDIX. 419 
 
 The fifth volume is ornamented with the portraits of Fr. Luis 
 de Leon, and el Conde de Rebolledo, and contains nothing but 
 what is called facred poetry, being fongs and fonnets addrefTed 
 to Chrift, to the Virgin Mary, to St. James, to the archangel 
 St. Michael, to the m oft Holy Trinity, to the Samaritan Woman, 
 to the moft Holy Sacrament, part of the Lamentations of Jere- 
 miah, &c. I have not read this volume, but I believe the 
 Englifh reader's curiofity will be gratified in being acquainted 
 with the fubjeds of three or four of the fonnets : one of which 
 runs thus : 
 
 *< A clown afks Faith how the entire, real, and phv- 
 " fical body of God can be contained in the facramental bread, 
 " and likewife in every one of its parts when broken ? To which 
 " Faith anfwers, that as a looking-glafs, though broken into 
 *' thoufands of pieces, ftill reflefts an entire image, fo," &c. 
 
 &C. &C»: 
 
 In another fonnet, is a paflage which fays, " The iron of the 
 " lance of Longinus ferved him for a fteel, Chrift for a flint, 
 " and the Crofs for tinder," &c &c. 
 
 The fonnet, in p. 39, ia extraordinary, but will not bear an 
 Englifh tranflation. 
 
 The laft fonnet in the book is literally thus : " The fo- 
 ♦' vereign Pages of the moft holy God, ftand with white torches 
 " and white tapers in the empyrean palaces ; a thoufand forts 
 ^« of Indian incenfes and Syrlac perfumes fmoke upon carpets 
 " ornamented with foliages, between amaranths and filvered 
 *• lilies. The Virgin arrived at the empyrean faloon, (a vilit 
 
 H h h 2 •• greatly
 
 420 APPENDIX. 
 
 " greatly defired by heaven) with the fun for her mantle, and 
 *' the moon for her pattens. The feraphims proftrated them- 
 " felves at her feet, the angels fung joyfully to her, and the 
 *' Holy-Word placed her at his fide." 
 
 The fixth volume confifls wholly of dramatic pieces *. After 
 a frontifpiece reprefenting tragedy, are the two Spanilh tragedies 
 written in 1577 by F. Geronimo Berraudez ; they are entitled 
 Nife to be pitied, and Nife crowned with laurels., or the Hiftory of 
 DoHa Ines de Caftro princefs of Portugal "f. They are each in 
 five adts, and in blank verfe, with double chorufles, of which 
 three are Sapphic. 
 
 Then follows 'The Vengeance of Agamemnon., a tragedy of a 
 fmgle ad, in profe, with chorufles, tranflated from Sophocles by 
 Fernan Perez de Oliva. 
 
 The Sorrowful Hecuba, a tragedy of one ad:, in profe, by the 
 fame hand, from Euripides. 
 
 Ifabela, and Alexandra, two tragedies by Lupercio de Argen- 
 fola, each of three ads, in blank verfe. 
 
 Thefe two tragedies are praifed by Cervantes in the firfl: part 
 of his Don QuiKOte. It cannot be expe£led that I fhould here 
 give the plot of them, I have thought it fufficient to indicate 
 where they are to be found. , 
 
 * The name of the compiler of this colieiHion of poems is now acknow- 
 ledged to be Don Juan de Sedano. 
 
 t See pages 348 and 383 of this worJc. 
 
 The
 
 A P P "E N D I X. 
 
 421 
 
 The feventh and laft volume contains the portraits of Fernando 
 de Herrera, and Don Luis de Gongora y Argote, and a great 
 number of fliort mifcellaneous poems, from which I fhall feledl 
 the following 
 
 Two Epigrams by Bait afar del Alcazar. 
 
 Magdalena me plco 
 Con un aljiler un dedo : 
 Dijela : picado quedo, 
 Feroya lo eft aba yo. 
 
 Riofe^ y con f 11 cor dura 
 Acudib al remedlo prcjlo : 
 Chupbme el dedo, y con ejlo 
 Sane de la picadura. 
 
 Mojlrhne Ines por retrato 
 De fu belleza los pies. 
 To le dije : efo es Ines 
 Bufcar cinco pies al gafo. 
 
 Rioje, y como eran bellos^ 
 T ella por ejlretno bella, 
 Arremeti por cogella, 
 T ejcapofeme por ellos. 
 
 I conjedure thefe epigrams to be fomewhat allegorical, and 
 fhall not tranflate them, for a reafon which will be obvious to 
 thofe who underftand the Spanifh language. 
 
 Eight Eclogues by ^evedo, entitled La BucoUca de el Tajo. 
 
 A Sonnet by King Charles 11. of Spain, not worth inferting, 
 
 with which I fhall embellifli and conclude the account of this 
 
 •coUedion, as the compofitions of monarchs are not numerous : 
 
 it was written about the year 1695. 
 
 O rompa ya eljilencio el dolor miot 
 
 Tfalga de ejle pecho defatado i 
 
 9ue
 
 422 APPENDIX. 
 
 ^efufrlr los rigores de callado 
 No cabe en ejie peclio, aiinque porfio. 
 
 De obedecerte, Anarda^ defconfio, 
 Muero de confujion de/efperado, 
 Ni quieres que fea tuyo mi cuidado, 
 Ni dejas que yo tenga mi alvedrio. 
 
 Mas ya tanto la pena me maltrata 
 ^e vence al fufrimiento j ya no ejpero 
 Vivir alegre : el lla?itofe defata ; 
 
 Y otra vez de la vida defefpero : 
 Tuesji me quejo tu rigor me mata, 
 Tfi callo mi ma I dos ijeces muero » 
 
 " O let my forrow break filence, and ifliie loofe out of this 
 *' breaft; fortofuffer the rigours of concealment this conftant 
 " breaft can no longer bear. I fear I cannot obey thee, Anarda, 
 " I die with defpairing confufion, and thou wilt not that my 
 *' cares fhall become thine, nor wilt permit me to ufe my own 
 " free-will. But thy troubles fo much ill-treat me, that they 
 " vanquifh my fufFerings ; I no more hope to live happily ; I 
 *' muft give way to my mourning ; I again defpair of life ; be- 
 *' caufe if I complain, thy rigour kills me, and if I conceal my 
 " pain I die twice." 
 
 In 1772, Don Jofeph Vafquez publiflied two fmall books, 
 entitled hos Erudites a la Violeta, which implies the Violet Lite- 
 rati, for the ufe of thofe who pretend to know much, and ftudy 
 
 little..
 
 APPENDIX. 423 
 
 little. Thefe books contain the moft celebrated paflages of fe- 
 veral ancient and modern authors in various languages, with a 
 Spanifh tranflation of every one of them, together with com- 
 mon-place remarks, to enable thofe who know nothing of the 
 matter to talk learnedly upon fubjeds they do not underftand. 
 The two firft pages of Paradife Loji^ are quoted and tranflated 
 in this work. The whole is an ingenious fatire, and if tranflat- 
 ed might poffibly be acceptable to Englifli JeJJhmhie Literati. 
 The fame author fhortly after publifhed a volume of lyric poems, 
 entitled Ocios de mi "Juventud., or ProdiiBions of my youthful leifure 
 Hours, Of thefe I fhall infert a fpecimen. 
 
 Satyrical Verfes, In ^evedo\ ftyle. 
 
 ^e de la viiida un gemido 
 Por la muerte del maridoy ya lo veo : 
 Pero que ella nofe ria 
 -Si otrofe ofrece en el din, no lo creo. 
 
 ^e Claris me diga a mit 
 ■Solo he de quererte a ti, ya lo veo .• 
 Pero que, fiqiiiera., a ciento 
 ■No haga el mifmo cumplimiento^ fto lo creo. 
 
 ^e los maridos zelofos 
 Sean mas guardias, que efpofos^ ya lo veo : 
 Pero que ejlan las malvadas 
 For mas guardias mas guardadas, no lo creo. 
 
 ^e al ver de la hoda el trage. 
 
 La doncdla el roftro baxe^ ya lo veo : 
 
 Pero
 
 424 APPENDIX. 
 
 Pero que al mlfmo momenta 
 
 No levante el pcnfamiento, no lo creo. 
 
 ^te Celia tome el marido 
 For Jus padres efcogidoy ya lo "ceo : 
 Pero que en el mifmo injlante 
 'Ella no efcoja el ainante, no lo creo. 
 
 ^uefe ponga con primor 
 Flora en el pec ho una for ^ ya lo veo : 
 Pero que ajlucia nofea 
 Para que otra Jlor fe vea, no lo creo. 
 
 ^e en el templo de Cupido ■ 
 El incienjb es permit ido, ya lo veo : 
 Pero que el incietifo bajle 
 Sin que algun orofe gajle^ no lo creo. . 
 
 ^ue el marido aj'u muger 
 Permita todo placer, ya lo veo : 
 Pero que tan ciegofea, 
 ^e lo que vemos no vea, no lo creo. . 
 
 §ue al marido de fu madre 
 Todo nino llame padre, ya lo veo : 
 Pero que elpor mas carina 
 Pueda llamar hijo al nino^ no lo creo. 
 
 Slue ^evedo crittcb 
 Con masfatyra que yo, ya lo veo : 
 Pero que mi mufa calk, 
 P or que mas materia no halle, no lo creo. 
 
 That'
 
 APPENDIX. 425 
 
 •' That the widow groans for the lofs of her hufband, I fee; 
 ■*' but that (he would not laugh if another offered on the fame 
 " day, I do not believe. 
 
 " That Chloris tells me, that flie loves only me, I fee ; but 
 *' that fhe would not, if necelfary, pay the fame compliment to 
 ** a hundred others, 1 do not believe. 
 
 " That jealous hufbands are more guardians than fpoufes, I 
 " fee ; but that their wives are the more virtuous becaufc they 
 *' are guarded, I do not believe. 
 
 " That the damfel fhould caft her eyes down, and be bafliful 
 *' when the preparations are making for her wedding, I fee ; 
 " but that at the fame time fhe does not raife her thoughts, I do 
 " not believe. 
 
 *' That Celia fhould accept the hufband chofen for her by her 
 " parents, I fee ; but that at the fame inftant, fhe does not chufe 
 ■ " a lover, I do not believe. 
 
 « That Flora places a beautiful flower in her breafl, I fee ; 
 " but that it be not artfully to fhow another flower, I do not 
 
 *' believe. 
 
 " That in the temple of Cupid, incenfe is permitted, I fee; 
 " but that incenfe is fufEclent, without fpending any gold, I do 
 " not believe. 
 
 ♦« That the hufband permits his wife to partake of all diver- 
 *' fions, I fee ; but that he fhould be fo blind as not to fee what 
 *< we fee, I do not believe. 
 
 " That the child fhould call its mother's hufband father, I 
 « fee ; but that he can always call the child his own, I do not 
 
 " believe. ,. rp, ,. 
 
 I i i " That
 
 426 APPENDIX. 
 
 " That Quevedo criticlfed more fatyrically than I do, I be- 
 *• lieve ; but that my mufe is filent for want of more matter, I 
 " do not believe." 
 
 EPITAPH. 
 
 El que ejia aquifepultado, 
 For que no logro cafarfe, 
 Murio de pena acabado. 
 Otros mueren de acordarfe 
 De que ya los han cafado. 
 
 " He who here lies buried, died for grief becaufe he was not' 
 " fortunate enough to be married ; others die for forrow that 
 " they are married." 
 
 I purchafed a fmall book in Madrid, which had juft been 
 publifhed, entitled Los Literates en ^larejma. An affembly of 
 learned men are fuppofed to meet together every Sunday during 
 the fix weeks in Lent, and to pronounce a difcourfe, or fermon, 
 of which the text is to be taken from fome celebrated author. 
 Accordingly fix fubje<Sts are feleded, as follows. The firft, 
 how prejudicial it is to the advancement of literature, and of 
 every thing ufeful, to be oppofed by perfons who murmur at 
 all innovations : the text is, K«< aXXa TrXeig-x tte^) tuv (piXuv y.(u 
 oiKBtuv xay^a, eiTreTv, axi vEpi tuv TereXevri^KiTuiv kuku? Xiynv, out 
 of the laft chapter of the Characicrs of Theophrajus. " There 
 
 *' are
 
 APPENDIX. 427 
 
 " are murmurers who not only fpeak evil of their friends and 
 " companions, but alfo even of the dead*." 
 
 The fecond, on the education of youth, the text from Cicero's 
 oration in favour of M. Celio : Hcec igitur eji tua dijiiplina? Jic 
 " tu injlitiiis adolejcentcs ? cb hanc caufam tibi hunc pueriim ptz- 
 " re?2s comtjiendavit & tradidit ?" " Is this thy teaching ? deft 
 " thou thus inftru£l youth ? was it for this that the father of 
 " this young man recommended him to thy care?" 
 
 The third, upon theatrical points, the text from the forty- eighth 
 chapter of the fecond volume of Don Quixote : " Habiendo de 
 " fer la comedia efpejo de la vida humana, exemplo de las cojium- 
 " bres^ e imdgen de la verdadi las que ahorafereprefentanfonefpC' 
 '* jos de difparateSf exemplos de necedades, e imdgenes de lafcivia^'' 
 " Comedy ought to be a mirror of human life, an example 
 ■" of cuftoms and manners, and an Image of truth ; whereas 
 " thofe comedies which are now reprefented are mirrors 
 '*' of abfurdlty, examples of folly, and images of lafci- 
 " vioufnefs." 
 
 The fourth, upon the difficulties and obligations of a poet ; 
 the text from the fecond fatire of Boileau. 
 
 * This tranflation is not exadly literal, a few words are added to cotn- 
 ,p]ete the fenfe. 
 
 li i 2 " Ma^-
 
 428 A P P E N D I X.. 
 
 " Mauditfoit le premier dont la verve infenjee 
 
 " Dans les homes d'un vers renfermafa penfee: 
 
 " £/ dormant afes mots une itroite prifin 
 
 '* Fou/ut avec la rime enchainer la raifon.'^ 
 ** Curfed be the firft who fooUfhly fhut up his thoughts ia 
 " the limits of verfe ; and who, by imprifoning his words, 
 " enchained reafon in rhyme." 
 
 The fifth, upon the partiality of critics, the text from Pope's^ 
 Eflay on Criticifm. 
 
 *'• Some, foreign writers^ fome our own defpife^ 
 *< T^he ancients only, or the moderns, prize. . 
 
 The fixth and laft difcourfe, is to fet forth the evils to which* 
 mankind are fubjedl, and to prove that the only way of alleviat- 
 ing them is by means of fociety, and decent communication "be- 
 tween the two fexes : the text from Taflb's tragedy of Turif- 
 mondo. 
 
 " La nofira lunanitade e quaji un giogo 
 ** Gravofo che Natura el del imponCy 
 " A cut la donna^ o I'uom difgiunto efcevro 
 c( Perfojlegtio non bajla. 
 *' Our humanity is almofl a grievous yoke, which nature: 
 " and heaven impofes on us, and w-hich neither woman nor. 
 *' man, if they live djfunited, is capable of bearing." 
 
 Th§
 
 APPENDIX, 429 
 
 The book contains no more than the three firft difcourfes, 
 the laft of which, upon theatrical points, is preceded by the fol- 
 lowing fonnet addrefled to a bad dramatic poet. 
 
 El que defu quietud tantofe ohida, 
 ^ue entrega a bravo marfragil navh j 
 El que en la guerra^ por mojirar fu brio, 
 Tone contra mil balas una vida ; 
 
 ^ien todofu caudal de un lance envida;. 
 ^ien no ef grime, yfe arriefga a un defaftoy. 
 ^ienfe expone al caprichoy.. ic al defvio 
 De una muger hermofa y prefumida ; 
 
 El que fube a una catedra fin cienciat. 
 T el que al pulpito facafus Jermotzes 
 Fundando enfu memoriafu eloqiiencia, 
 
 Todos ellos de ti tomen lecciones 
 En materia de arrojo y de imprudencia j . 
 Pues al Teatro das compoficiones... 
 
 *• He who forgets his quietude enough to truft a frail veflel. 
 ** to the tempeftuous feas ; he, who in war, to fliow his cou- 
 " rage, expofes one life to a thoufand bullets ; he who rifques 
 " his whole capital upon a fingle adventure; he who cannot; 
 *' fence and ventures a challenge ; he who expofes himfelf to 
 " the caprice or fhynefs of a beautiful and prefumptuous 
 *' woman; he who mounts a chair without fciencCj and who in the 
 «« pulpit pulls out his fermons, and trufls to memory for his elo- • 
 
 ♦' quencea:
 
 430 APPENDIX. 
 
 '*' quence : all thefe take leffons from thee in regard to rafliners 
 »' and imprudence, for lo thou giveft thy compofitions to 
 " the theatre." 
 
 The author in this difcourfe, after having remarked how little 
 the unities of time and place are regarded in the Spanifh plays, 
 fays that " the Hiftory of the Life of Chrijlian Jacobfen Draken- 
 " berg, who died at the age of one hundred and forty-fix years, 
 " would form a curious dramatic piece, if the fcenes were thus 
 *' diftributed. A(fi I, Scene I. How the faid Chrijlian was born 
 *' in Norway in the year 1626. Scene II. how lie ferved in the 
 " artillery at Copenhagen. Scene III. how at the age of one 
 " hundred and fix years he went to fetch his baptifmal certifi- 
 " cate. Ad II. Scene I. How at the age of one hundred and 
 " eleven years he married a refpedtable lady of fixty. Scene 11. 
 *' How he ufed to read the newfpapers without fpedacles, &c. 
 *' A£l III. Scene I. How he walked two leagues from a 
 «« village where he was, to the city of Arrhus. Scene II. How 
 " he died in 1772. Laft fcene, His obfequies are celebrated, a 
 « funeral fermon preached, a proceffion pafles, and a monument 
 " is ereded to his memory, with an epitaph in the Danilh 
 " language, &c. &c." 
 
 The author then gives a plot of a piece, wherein unity of 
 place is as little attended to as unity of time is in the forego- 
 ing piece. He fuppofes a play to be reprefented, of which the 
 principal adion is the conquelt of New Spain. *' The curtain 
 
 ** draws
 
 APPENDIX. 431 
 
 " draws up and fhows us a fea-port town In perfpedive, fuppofed 
 *' to be Santiago de Cuba, Hernan Cortes fets fail from thence 
 " with his navy ; the fcene fliifts, and another fea-port town is 
 •' feen, which is that of Fera-Cruz, where Cortes arrives, re- 
 " counting what had happened to him at the Havana, &c. . 
 *' Then is reprefented that moft valorous and never-enough-to- 
 '* be-applauded adlion of boring holes in the fhips and finking 
 •' them ; and Cortes declares his intention of proceeding to 
 ** Mexico. The decoration changes, and we find ourfelves in 
 *' the identical city of Mexico, the court and place of refidence 
 " of the powerful emperor Motezuma. Many memorable ac- 
 '• tions are exhibited, the conqueft is completed, and, when 
 " the audience lead expe(fl:s it, the port of \'era-Cruz is again 
 •< difcovered, from whence Cortes fets fail for Spain. We take 
 " it for granted, that all the fpedators fwim after Cortes to the 
 '♦ town of Palos, and accompany him to Sevilla ; and for the 
 " fake of eighty-two leagues more or lefs, it would not be rea- 
 "• fonable to abandon him in his journey to Toledo. The fcenes 
 " already reprefent that imperial city, and Cortes is received 
 " in it by the emperor Charles V. with demonftrations of fin- 
 " gular efteem." 
 
 " Thus, inftead of faying, ive are going to the comedy, we 
 " are going to the tragedy^ we ought to fay, we are going 
 *' to the chronicle 5 y to the novels or, ice are going to ramble, 
 *' or to travel, 
 
 *' After.-
 
 432 APPENDIX. 
 
 " After the unities of time and place, it is necefTary to ob- 
 *' ferve the unity of adlion, otherwife we might reprefent in ^ 
 ** fingle piece the whole feries of the wars of Alexander, or all 
 " the adventures of Don Quixote. 
 
 *' But fuppofing the three unities to be preferved, it is not 
 *' enough for perfedion ; there are many other things necefTary, 
 *' fuch as artifice in the plot, probability in the adventures, na- 
 " tural thoughts, purity of ftyle, variety in the dialogue, ve- 
 '* hemence in the affections y and, generally fpeaking, a certain 
 *' importance in every thing that is faid and done, capable of 
 •' interefting and fufpending the palTions of the audience, al- 
 *• ways fuppofing the feledion of a proper fubjed:. 
 
 " Now even if a theatrical compofition fhould have all thefe 
 
 *' necefTary qualities, there only remains a Tingle trifle to infure 
 
 ♦' its fuccefs, and that is, tafte ; becauTe to pleafe or difpleafe does 
 
 " not always depend on the merits or defedts of the work. For 
 
 ■" example, we will fuppofe that in digging into the earth, a 
 
 *' manufcript tragedy is found in a leaden caTe, and that its au- 
 
 *' thor is unknown (becaufe if he were known there would be 
 
 *' partiality), and that in this tragedy all good qualities abound, 
 
 ** and that not only it preferves the unity of time, place, and 
 
 ■" adion, but likewife a thouTand other things which end in T] 
 
 *' as propriety, clarity, piety, morality, novelty, majefly, proba- 
 
 *' bility, and above all a corred Caftilian, without harfh or lame 
 
 *• vexTes, and without any mixture of j^GalliciTms, from which 
 
 " God
 
 APPENDIX. 433 
 
 " God, of his mercy and love, deliver us: we muft then confider, 
 '* that as the earth produces mufhrooms without any particular 
 " cultivation, at the fame time it creates from night to morning 
 " a dozen adlors of both fexes, v^'ho befides having true theatrical 
 '• figures, rehearfe without gefticulatlon, without a pulpit-like 
 *' declamation, and without an ill-timed drawling or affeded 
 *' tone. Now, were thefc perfons to reprefent the aforefaid 
 *' uncriticifable tragedy, it is poffible that it would not pleafe 
 " for various reafons ; for inftance, one of the audience would 
 *' exped. tempefts, eclipfes, battles, horfes, lions, tigers, and all 
 *' forts of monfters and wild beafts ; another waits for poetical 
 " comparifons and fimilies, abounding in flowers, plants, rocks, 
 " fields, Gonftellations, bird?, fifli, fands, pearls, coral, fhells, 
 " &c. they find nothing of this kind in the new tragedy, and 
 " lb they take a nap till the tmadilla awakens them. Another 
 " hears the play with difguft, becaufe every adion in it is very 
 *^ polTible, and that it contains no magical reprefentations 
 " neither by dint of necromancy, chiromancy, hydromancy, 
 *' acromancy, pyromancy, geomancy, cleomancy, &c. no caves 
 " nor enchanted palaces, no vifions, fpirits, nor phantoms, as 
 ■" in Don 'John or Hamlet: an old man in the pit difdains the 
 " play, becaufe night with a ftarry black velvet mantle, earth in 
 «' green fattin, and fea in blue plulh, are not adreffes in it ; 
 ♦' another is difpleafed becaufe the part given to A, was not given 
 -*' to B," &c. &c. &c.- Thus far may fuffice to enable the 
 4-eader to form a general idea of this book. 
 
 K kk In
 
 434 APPENDIX. 
 
 In 1759, a book was printed in Barcelona, in quarto, entitled 
 Arte Poetica Efpamla. Half this book contains fpeclmens and 
 examples of every kind of Spanifli verfe, acroftics, anagrams', 
 labyrinths, &c. the other half is a didlionary, in which all 
 words with (Imilar terminations are clafled together *. 
 
 One of the Enigmas in this book is the following l 
 
 ^al es el uno que es tres, 
 T eftos tres fi hi contares, 
 Aunque fan nones, Jon pares ? 
 
 " What is the one^ which is three^ and thofe three if you 
 " count them, although they are 0^^, are even^ The folutioa 
 " of this Enigma is, God; becaufe in God alone a divine 
 " effence and three perfons are found, which by being three are 
 " called odd', and for the equality which they bear to each 
 ** other, are termed even." ! 
 
 The works of Garcllafo de la Vega were reprinted in Madrid 
 1765, 8vo. 187 pages, and confift of three elegies, about forty 
 fonnets, and a few other pieces : the elegies are too long, and 
 the other poems too trite to infert here. 
 
 The works of Don Lewis de Gongora are contained in a 
 quarto volume (650 pages) : this author died in 1627, aged 
 
 "* An EngUfti di£tionary of this kind is juft publiflied by J. Walker. 
 
 feventy-
 
 APPENDIX. 435 
 
 feventy-five. They confift of about a hundred fonnets (chiefly 
 «onfenfe}, and various mifcellaneous poems. One of thefe fon- 
 nets is written in four languages, which are Spanifli, Latin, Ita- 
 lian, and Portuguefe. Another, which is addreffed to the bridge 
 of Segovia, on the river Manfanares at Madrid, wi(hes that 
 mules urine may fupply that river with water. In another 
 fonnet, the author fays, " this river does not deferve half a 
 *' bridge, and this bridge may ferve for thirty feas ; an afs 
 *' drank it up yeflerday, and to-day has voided it gut again by 
 " urine." Another gives an account of a boy's having tied a 
 horn to the tail of a dog, and that a widow cried out that it was 
 a fhame to fee a thing which had been emblematically worn by 
 fo many honourable perfonages, proftituted fo far as to be 
 faftened to a dog's tail. A poetical piece in this work, which 
 is addrefled to two gentlemen who had a great affedlion for nuns, 
 fays, " you are troubled with three hundred female faints, you 
 *' are either broken looking-glafTes, or you have three hundred 
 " faces : but you have much of the god-head in you (tcnns 
 " tnucho de DiosJ, for you are prefent every where." 
 
 In 1694, was publlfhed at Antwerp, a Spanifh tranflation of 
 Guarini's Paftor Fido, by Dcfia Ifabel Correa. 
 
 The moft ftriking paffages in this paftoral drama, are part of 
 the chorus at the end of the fecond ad, and the fourth fcene of 
 the third. This drama was tranflated into Englilh verfe in 
 164.7: this tranflation was reprinted in 1736, and in the pre- 
 face I find it attributed to Mr. Fanfliaw. Into French, much 
 
 Kkk2 about
 
 436 APPENDIX. 
 
 about the fame time, and feveral times reprinted, though with- 
 out the choruffes ; and into Dutch verfe by David de Potter, 
 in 1695. 
 
 At the end of the Italian Grammar, by the Abbe Antonini, 
 I find an elegant French tranflation of the above-mentioned 
 fcene ; and in Jackfon's Elegies it is parodied and fet to mufic. 
 I believe there are other tranflations extant, but they are very 
 difficult to bfi met with. 
 
 The Spanifh tranflation of part of the fecond chorus is as 
 follows : 
 
 Es bienfuave cofu 
 El befo que fe coxe 
 De la purpurea y delicada roja, 
 ^e una mexilla virginal defcoxe, 
 Mas quien experto la verdad entiendcy 
 Otro neSiar mayor dulce comprende. 
 Conio juzgais vojotros I'entiirofos^ 
 ^le los probais amantes deliciofos, 
 Dirafer befo muerto ciertamente-, 
 Aquel aquien al punto la befada 
 Belleza no bohiere el befo ardiente. 
 Mas los tiernos con dulzidos refabios 
 Golpes de dos enamorados labios 
 ^ando a herirfe fe van boca con boca. 
 En aquel punto toca 
 
 A batalla
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 A bat alia (el amor) altifonanfe, 
 
 Defpuntando una y otra flecha amante 
 
 ^e enfuave venganza, 
 
 Un labia y otro reiterado alcanza. 
 
 Son verdaderos befos^ befos donde, 
 
 Como en Jlores abeja^ amor fe efconde, 
 
 Conjirmes voluntades que exercita, 
 
 Tanto a otrofe da, quant o fe quit a y 
 
 Befe boca que el am bar lifongea. 
 
 Of rente, o pecho, o mano^ 
 
 famas podrd dezirfe en modo llano-, 
 
 Sin que enciientre la duda que a atropella., 
 
 ^e parte alguria befe en muger bella, 
 
 ^le befadora fea, 
 
 Sino la boca, donde en dulze calma, 
 
 Acuden a befarfe una y otra alma^ 
 
 T con defpiertos fempre veladores, 
 
 Peregrlnos efpiritus da vida^, 
 
 Al hermofo theforo^ 
 
 De rubis befadores 
 
 AJJi que entre ellos hablan alternados 
 
 Aquellos eloquentesfi animados 
 
 Vefost en fon pequeno, aunque canoro 
 
 Grandes cofas en lengua no aprendida 
 
 Duh ifjimos fecretos veramente 
 
 Manifiejios a ellos folamente, 
 
 T a otros encubiertos ; .. 
 
 ^n 
 
 Tal
 
 438 APPENDIX. 
 
 ^algozo amando prueba^ antes tal vida, 
 
 Alma con alma unida 
 
 Tfon como de amor Jin defconciertos 
 
 Befos tiernos befados 
 
 Tor modos elegantes 
 
 Los encuentros tambien dt dos amantes 
 
 Corazones amados. 
 
 The Englifh tranflatlon is thus : 
 
 ** Well may that kifs be fweet that's giv'n t' a fleek 
 *' And fragrant rofe of a vermilion cheek ; 
 " And underftanding tafters (as are true 
 " And happy lovers) will commend that too. 
 ** 'Tis a dead kifs, fay I, and muft be poor, 
 *' Which the place kifl: hath no means to reftore. 
 *' But the fweet ecchoing, and the dove-like billing 
 " Of two encountring mouths, when both are willing ; 
 ** And when at once both loves advance their bows, 
 " Their {hafts drawn home, at once found at the loofe 
 *' (How fweet is fuch revenge !) this is true kifling, 
 *' Where there is one for t'other without miffing 
 *' A minute of the time, or taking more 
 " Than that which in the taking they reftore ; 
 " Where, by an interchange of amorous bliffes, 
 " At the fame time they fow and gather kifles. 
 ** Kifs a red fwelling lip, then kifs a wrift, 
 " A breaft, a fore-head, or what elfe thou lift, 
 
 « No 
 
 \
 
 APPENDIX. 439 
 
 *' No part of a fair nymph fo juft will be, 
 
 '* Except the lip, to pay this kifs to thee. 
 
 *' Thither your fouls come fallying forth, and they 
 
 " Kifs too, and by the wand'ring pow'rs convey 
 
 " Life into fmacking rubies, and transfufe 
 
 " Into the live and fprightly kifs their ufe 
 
 " Of reafon ; fo that you difcourfe together 
 
 " In kifTes, which with little noife deliver 
 
 *' Much matter -, and fweet fecrets, which he fpells 
 
 " Who is a lover ; gibb'rifti to all elfe. 
 
 " Like life, like mutual joy they feel, where love 
 " With equal flames as with two wings doth move ; ' 
 •' And as where lips kifs lips, is the beft kifs : 
 ♦' So where one's lov'd, to love, beft loving is.* 
 
 The poetical works of Don Antonio de Mendoya were printed 
 in a quarto volume, 460 pages, in 1690: they confift of five 
 Comedias Famofas^ and mifcellaneous poems, one of which 
 addreffed to a beautiful lady, who had a beautiful daughter, is 
 as follows : 
 
 fue milagro ventura, 
 
 ^ue una beldad prodigioja 
 
 ^.edo hermofa, qiw.ndo hermofa 
 
 Parib la mi/ma hernwfura : - 
 
 To en novedad tan fegura 
 
 Ml admiracion ?;;• acomodo 
 
 * For more on thi- fubjp£t, fee the trauflation from Siamdus lately 
 
 publilhed, under the title of KiJJis.. 
 
 Solamente
 
 440 APPENDIX. 
 
 Solamente adviiro el modo 
 De arrojallo, y no perdello 
 JPues dando todo lo bello 
 Se fupo quedar con todo. 
 
 " It was either by a miracle, or through luck, that a prodi- 
 ■" gious beauty fliould remain handfome, while being hand- 
 " feme, fhe brought forth beauty itfelf : I cannot refrain from 
 " admiring fuch a novelty, and am aftoniflied how fhe could 
 " throw away fo much beauty, and yet nut lofe any, and beftow- 
 " ing all that is beautiful, fliould flill know how to preferve 
 « the whole." 
 
 'The Life vf our Lady, precedes the comedies, and confifts of 
 800 verfes, not worth reading. 
 
 The poetical works of Don Juan de Tarfis, were firfl publifh- 
 ed in quarto, 16S0 : they may be configned to oblivion without 
 detriment to Spanifh literature- 
 There is a Spanifh comedy, intitlcd The Adventures qfPerfeus., 
 in which Neptune and Medufa are among the dramatis perfonae *. 
 
 Lope de Vega wrote a book entitled la Dorotea, in two odavo 
 volumes : it is a kind of pafloral rhapfody, in profe and verfe. 
 
 * In the third volume of Mr. Baretti's Journey through Spain, is a 
 .good account of the comedy called the Devil Preacher, and alfo a concifc one 
 of the Spunilh literature. 
 
 Romances
 
 APPENDIX. 441 
 
 Romances and books of chivalry, of which the Spaniards 
 have a great variety, are very difficult to procure : I purchafed a 
 few; one of thefe is entitled Various Prodigies of Love., 1665, 
 in eleven novels, five of which are written each without one of 
 the five vowels ; thefe are comprifed altogether in 130 quarto 
 pages: the firft novel is wholly without any A, the fecond 
 without an E, &c. It may eafily be imagined that the fenfe is 
 facrificed to the whim, and that thefe novels arenot diftinguifh- 
 ed for any peculiar beauty of ftyle. Another is called La Picara 
 Jujiina; it was firft printed in quarto in 1640, and reprinted in 
 1735. At the head of the fifty chapters, into which this ro- 
 mance is divided, are the like number of Spanifli verfes, in all 
 varieties : the book itfelf is the Life of a Libertine Hoftefs, and 
 contains a ftrange mixture of indecency, nonfenfe, and religi- 
 ous matters : at the end of every chapter is a moral, to inform 
 the reader that he is to take what he has been reading in the di- 
 rect contrary fenfe, which is, as if a child were firft to be taught 
 mifchief and then forbid to praftife it. The author concludes 
 thus : " All that this book contains I fubjed to the correftion 
 " of the holy Roman Catholic Church, and of the holy inquili- 
 «' tion ; and I warn the reader, that as often as he finds any 
 " paflage which appears to fet a bad example, he is to take 
 «' notice, that it is there placed to be burnt in effigy; and, in 
 " fuch a cafe, he is to have recourfe to the moral at the end of 
 <' the chapter, and by fo doing he will extradt utility from the 
 *' defcription I have given of the vices which abound in the 
 « world. Vale. Laus Dec.'' ! 
 
 L 1 1 Excepting
 
 442 APPENDIX. 
 
 Excepting this work, there is no indecent book in either the 
 Spanifh or the Portuguefe languages. 
 
 El Diablo Coxuelo, is the original romance by Luis Perez de 
 Guevara., which was tranflated into French, with great improve- 
 ments, by ie Sage, under the title of le Diable Boiteux. 
 
 At the end of the Spanifh book is a novel, entitled the Invifible 
 Cavalier y compofed entirely of quibbles and low conceits ; and 
 another in which the vowel A is omitted. 
 
 The fame le Sage tranflated and imitated another Spanifli. 
 romance, called the Life and Deeds of Eftevanillo Gonzalez. 
 
 The Spanifh romance of the Life of Guzman de Alfarache,. 
 2 vols. 8vo. by Mateo Aleman, 1681, has likewife been tranf- 
 lated into the French language. 
 
 Three fmall duodecimo volumes were pubiifhed in Madrid in 
 J 769, after the old edition 1618, with additions, containing 
 jefts and witty layings, for the moft part as flale and infipld as 
 thofe with which the Engllfh language is enriched by means of. 
 our fixpenny jefl-books. 
 
 Frey Gerundio is a work at prcfent well known in England,, 
 from its tranflatlon by the Reverend Mr. Warner. It was written 
 by Father Ifla ; and, in J 757, he pubiifhed in Antv/erp, a 
 quarto of eighty pages, entitled, Wifdom and Folly in the Pul- 
 
 ^it
 
 APPENDIX. 443 
 
 pit of the Nuns, (La Sabiduriay la Locura. en el Pulpito de las 
 Monjas.J It contains feveral fermons, which were pubUfhed 
 with the licences of the inquifition, and Father Ifla turns them 
 very properly into ridicule ; however, the whole work is unin- 
 terefting to an Englifh reader, as none of our fermons that I 
 know of are written in fuch unintelligible bombaft. 
 
 In 1672, a work was publiflied in odavo, by Geronimo 
 Cortes, being a Treatife on Terreflrial and Volatile Animals : 
 this is properly fpeaking a tranflation of Pliny. 
 
 Pather Jofeph Torrubio, in 1754, publiflied the firft volume 
 of a book, in fmall folio (200 pages), entitled Apparatus for 
 the Natural H'-Jhry of Spain, with fourteen plates of fhells, 
 foffils, petrifadions, &c. In this book the author thinks he 
 has proved indubitably that there was an univerfal deluge, by 
 giving a defcription of all the kinds of fhells and petrifadions 
 which have been found upon the tops of, and in the higheft 
 mountains in different parts of the world. Conjcdure is often 
 miftaken for demonllration, and it will ever necelTarily be 
 fo with regard to points which are morally impofhble to be 
 proved. 
 
 Torrubio's work feems to be known in England, as I find it 
 cited in the third part of Edward's Gleanings of Natural Hiflory. 
 See plate 336 of that book. 
 
 L 1 1 2 The
 
 444 APPENDIX. 
 
 The only Spanish book on natural hiftory which I have been 
 able to find, befides the two above mentioned, is a work 
 publifhed in Madrid, 1762, 4 vols, fmall folio, with badly en- 
 graven copper-plates, entitled Hijioria de las Phmtas que fe crian 
 en Efpana, por Jofeph ^ler. 
 
 I have a quarto Spanilh book, entitled. An Hiftorical Rela- 
 tion of the Auto-de-fe, which was celebrated in Madrid, 
 1680, in prefence of king Charles II. his queen, and the queen- 
 mother: it contains a copper plate; the fermon (of fifty pages) 
 which was preached before the execution of the criminals, the 
 text from Pfalm Ixxiv. v. 22. Arife^ O God, plead thine own 
 canfe i and a catalogue of the nineteen unhappy perfons who 
 were burnt alive, of the thirty-two who were burnt in effigy, 
 and of the feven who were whip|:ed, together with an account 
 of their crimes, and of the fixty who were condemned, fome to 
 temporary, and fome to perpetual imprifonment, fome to ba- 
 nilhment, and fome to the gallies. Their majefties were pre- 
 fent during the whole time the fentences were pronouncing, 
 which was from eight in the morning till half paft nine in the 
 evening, when they retired, without having tafted any refrefli- 
 ment during the whole day; neither had the inquihtors nor 
 judges. At half paft nine fire was put to the fcaffold, 
 which was fixty feet fquare, and feven feet high, and 
 the nineteen martyrs were burnt ; fix of thefe were women, 
 and twelve men, who were condemned for Judaizing, ajid 
 one renegade Spanifti pirate, becaufe he would not abjure 
 
 his
 
 APPENDIX. 445 
 
 his faith in Mahomet : they confifted of three rag-merchants, 
 a flop-feller, an inn-keeper, a foldier, two fnufF- dealers, a pedlar, 
 a ftrolling filverfmith, and three vagabonds ; the women were all 
 of" the like refpedable profefTions. All their goods were confif- 
 cated, and the Spanifh account fays that ten of them had none. 
 
 The formula obferved by the holy tribunal of the inquifition 
 in delivering the criminals out of its cuftody is thus : " We 
 " muft, and hereby do furrender, the body of N. N. to juftice 
 " and to the fecular power, more efpecially to M. M. chief ma- 
 " giftrate of this city, and to his afliftants, whom we charge, 
 " and a(I"e£tionately pray (as much as lies in their power) to pro- 
 " ceed with pity and tendernefs." 
 
 " The criminals were burnt alive, fhewing no fmall figns of 
 " impatience, rage, and defpair;" and by about nine next 
 morning rt// was reduced to afhes. 
 
 The crimes of thofe who were banifhed, or corporally punifh- 
 ed, were bigamy : witchcraft : officiating in an ecclefiaflical charac- 
 ter without having been ordained : and marrying, being a prieft. 
 
 The Defcription of America by Don Jorge Juan and Don 
 Antonio d.- Ulloa, is well known in England by the tranflation *. 
 
 In 1772, the above mentioned Don Antonio delllloa^ pub- 
 lilhed a quarto volume of 400 pages, dedicated to the king, en- 
 titled, Noticias Americanasy or Phyfico-Hiflorical- Difcourfes 
 
 * A fine portrait of Don Jorge^ was lately publithed in Madrid, engra^. 
 ven by Cafiro aod Carmona, 
 
 upon
 
 /^ 
 
 446 APPENDIX. 
 
 upon South America, and the eaflern part of North America : 
 it contains a general comparifon of the foils, climates, and pro- 
 dudions in animals, vegetables, and minerals, with an account 
 of the petrifadions of marine bodies there found ; of the cuf- 
 toms and manners of the natives, and of the antiquities, with a 
 ■difcourfc on the language, and of the manner by v/hich the 
 country was firft peopled. This work well deferves an Englifti 
 tranflation, as a fupplement to that of the former one, it being 
 written with great candour and veracity, without any mixture 
 of credulity. 
 
 In 1604, a work was publiflied in two volumes folio, by the 
 hica Garcilafo de la Vega, entitled, Hijiory of Peru. It was re- 
 printed in 1723 : the firft volume, dedicated to king Philip V. 
 contains "' Royal Commentaries, which treat of the origin of 
 *' the f ncas, kings of Perii, of their idolatry, laws, and govern- 
 " ment ; of their lives and conquefts before the arrival of the 
 *' Spaniards among them. The fecond, dedicated " to the moft 
 *' glorious Virgin Mary, daughter, mother, and virginal fpoufe 
 ** of her Creator, and fupreme princefs of creatures," contains an 
 *' account of the difcovery of Peru, of its being conquered by 
 *' the Spaniards ; of the civil wars between the followers of P/- 
 *' zarro and thofe of Almagro about dividing the lands." 
 
 At the fame time, another folio volume was publiflied by the 
 fame author, dedicated to Philip V's queen, and entitled Hif- 
 iory of Fhrida^ with a continuation down to the year 1722: it 
 
 is
 
 APPENDIX. 447 
 
 IS chiefly hiftorical, and contains an account of the conqueft of 
 Florida by Hernando de Soto, &c. 
 
 With thefe three volumes, the Spanlfh bookfcllers ufually fell 
 a fourth, of the fame fize as the others, entirled. Chronological 
 Effay towards a General Hiftory of Florida,' from 1512, when 
 it was difcovered by Juan Ponce de Leon, till 1722, written by 
 Don Gabriel de Cardenas, and dedicated to Lewis prince of 
 Afturias, fon of Philip V. 
 
 A fimilar work is. The Hiftory of the Conqueft of Mexico, 
 written by Do?! Antonio de Solis y Ribadejieyra : it is fufficicnt 
 merely to mention it, as it has been tranflated into Englifh. 
 Several different editions have been publifhed in theSpanifti lan- 
 guage ; the laft was printed in two large o£lavo volumes in Bar- 
 celona, 177!, with bad copper-plates. The author dedicated 
 his work to king Charles II. 
 
 A work was lately publiftied weekly in Madrid, 6 vols. 
 1 2 mo. upon the model of the Spectator, entitled El Pen/a dor 
 (the Thinker). Among thefe periodical papers, I find a tranfla- 
 tion of Swift's letter to a young lady; this (and feveral effays 
 contained in this work) is attributed to Don Ricardo Wall. 
 
 In imitation of the -Thinker, a weekly paper was publifhed in 
 Cadiz in 1763,, price one real de vellon (about three pence), en- 
 titled Lii Penfadora Gaditana (the Female Thinker of Cadiz) : the 
 
 whole-- 
 
 f.
 
 
 44S APPENDIX. 
 
 whole is comprifed in fifty-two numbers, or four duodecimo 
 volumes, each of about 400 pages. Thefe two works merit be- 
 ing tranflated into the Englilh language, the fubjeds are moftly 
 novel ; for inftance, fome of thefe papers are on Marcialidad, or 
 the mafculine behaviour of women ; on effeminacy in men ; on 
 veiled women ; on feflivals ; on the facility with which voyages 
 to the Eaft Indies are undertaken ; on true modefty in women ; 
 on the want of friends in need; on the little attention fathers 
 pay to marry their daughters advantageoufly ; on the utility of 
 critical papers to the public; on the choice of god fathers and 
 god-mothers ; on ftep-mothers ; on the multitude of ungrateful 
 people in the world ; on the choice of friends ; on the abufes 
 of procefTions, and the holy week; on pedantic phrafes ; and 
 laflly, on death. 
 
 A fmall oftavo book, printed in Madrid, 1747, is called los 
 Clares Varones dc EJpcina, y Trelnta y dos Cartas de Fernando 
 ds Pulgar : it contain anecdotes of twenty five celebrated Spa- 
 nifh perfonages, and thirty-two letters oi Pulgar, firfl publifh- 
 ed in 1632. 
 
 In 1626, an odavo book was printed, and a new edition 
 publifl:ied in 1748, entitled Sayings and Adions of Don Philip 
 II, it is divided into eighteen chapters, which contain an ac- 
 count of his pcrfon, gravity, valour, magnanimity, equality of 
 temper, clemency, piety, humility, devotion, religion, faith, 
 modefty, benignity, temperance, prudence, wifdom, capacity, 
 
 juflice.
 
 APPENDIX, 449 
 
 juftice, reditude, fortitude, patience, conftancy, perfeverancc, li- 
 berality, fnagnificence, obedience, power, grandeur, zeal, confi- 
 dence, and wit ; here are thirty good qualities, or virtues, enu- 
 merated, which have probably never been attributed to any fingle 
 perfonage but this monarch. 
 
 The work which has been mentioned, p. 239 of this boot, 
 entitled Graces of Grace, contains many melancholy proofs of 
 the Egaremcns de PEfprit humain. 
 
 There is at prefent publifhed monthly in Madrid, a Mercurio 
 Hiftorico y Politico^ in the nature of the French Mercures. There 
 is alfo a Spanifh weekly Gazette. 
 
 A little pamphlet, of feventy pages, called The Life of Laza- 
 rillo de Tormes^ a Sharper, is written with fome humour ; it 
 was reprinted in \'alencia, 1769. 
 
 In i'^55, a fmall Spanifh book was printed at Lions, in 
 France, entitled Letters of Don Nicolas Antonio, and of Don 
 Antonio de Solis (author of the Hiftory of Mexico before men- 
 tioned), publifhed by Don Gregorio Mayans y Sifcar, a gentle- 
 man who is ftill living in Valencia, At the end of this book is 
 an oration upon the Spanilli eloquence by Don Gregorio. 
 
 In 1762, two fmall volumes \vere publiflied, containing an 
 account of various antiquities lately dug out of the earth \\\ Gra- 
 
 M m m nada.
 
 450 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 nada. The author's device is an eye and a pen, with this 
 motto : " I came, I faw, and I wrote." He might have 
 faved hii»felf the trouble of writing, as his book is unin^ 
 telll^ible. 
 
 *&* 
 
 When I was at Loretto, I purchafed a Spanifh book printed 
 there, entitled, Defcription of the Holy Houfe, &c. and a ca- 
 talogue of the treafure and jewels preferved in Loretto : it is 
 embellifhed with four wooden cuts, and a large copper- plate 
 map of the travels of that fame houfe from the Holy Land to 
 where it now ftands : it will never travel any more, becaufe the 
 Italians have built a chapel and a church over it. 
 
 A fmall book is extant, containing fourteen dialogues, and a; 
 fhort vocabulary, in the Spanish and French languages, and the. 
 Bafque, or Bifcayan dialed, printed at Bayonne. 
 
 A fingle line may fuffice for a fpecimen of this jargon : 
 Beguis icujlendena, gogos cineztendut., 
 
 " He who fees with the eye, believes with the heart.'* 
 
 There is alfo an old book, entitled Letters and AthoriQBis of 
 Antonio Perezy Secretary of State to Don Philip II,. 
 
 In 1774, the infante Don Gabriel, the king's fourth fon,, 
 publi{hed a magnificent edition of Saluft, tranflated into Spa- 
 nifh by himfelf : it is in one folio volume of about three hundred 
 pages, and is embellished with a map of Numidia, a head of 
 
 Saluft,
 
 APPENDIX. 45i 
 
 Saluft, tliree large hlftorical plates, and eight vignettes, by 
 Carmona, and other eminent engravers. At the end is placed a 
 Diflertation (forty pages) on the Alphabet and Language of the 
 Phoenicians and of their colonies, by the prince's preceptor. 
 Several plates, on which are engraven thirty-feven medals, and 
 various infcriptions, illuftrate this diflertation. A copy of this 
 book is depofited in the Britifti Mufeum, and the prince prefent- 
 ed another to each of our univerfities. 
 
 Befides the tranflations of Spanifh books occafionally mention- 
 ed in the courfe of this work, we poflefs various tranflations of 
 Don Quixote *, Cervantes' Novels, Father Feijoo's Defence of 
 Women (with additions), Quevedo's Vifions by Sir Roger 
 l'Efl:range, and Quevedo's Comical Works, by Captain John 
 Stevens, 
 
 That there are no more good Spanifli books in print is eafily to 
 tie accounted for, as authors dare not publifli any of their works 
 without permitting their manufcripts to be perufed by the inqui- 
 fitors; fo that till the inquifition is totally aboliflied, literature 
 
 * In 1738, Don Quixote was neatly printed in London in the original 
 language, in four quarto volumes, with fine copper-plates. 
 
 In 1711, Edward Ward publiflied Don Quixote, " merrily tranflated in- 
 ^' to Hudibraftic verfe :" it is in two oclavo volumes, and concludes after 
 the Don '' had forfaken his obftinate pena.ice between the ftarving tAoun- 
 *' taifls." 
 
 M m m 2 can
 
 452 APPENDIX. 
 
 can never flourifh in Spain or Portugal. I have heard of many 
 valuable manufcripts^ and have, efpecially in Valencia and 
 Sevilla feen feme, which would do honour to the nation, if 
 they were publifhed, but which for the prefent muft neceflarily 
 remain in obfcurity. 
 
 TH E Portuguefe poflefs very few books that are worth 
 perufing, though they abound in books of phyfic, law, 
 and divinity. Befides thofe which I have already cited, I know 
 of no more than the following. 
 
 Rimas de yimo Xavterde Maio^t %vo, Oporta, 1773 : it cort- 
 tains aboot a hundred fonnets, and feveral odes, fongs, &c.. 
 At the end of the book is a proteftation of the author, wherein 
 he fays, " The words fate, deftiny, deity, &c. employed only 
 '■* to exprefs poetical fidion, have nothing in common with the. 
 " interior fentiments of the author, who, as an obedient fon of 
 '* the church, fubmits himfelf to her determinations- in everyi 
 *' thing." Mr. Addifon, in p. 235, of his Remarks en Italy^ 
 quotes a iimilar proteftation of an Italian poet. One of our 
 poet's fongs in praife of the Virgin Mary, begins with a tranfla- 
 tion of the firft part of Horace*s ode, " Louge barbaro lulgo ! 
 ''' fugi, fugi de.mim, 6cc." I fhall here infert two or three of 
 the befl; fonnets.
 
 APPENDIX. 453 
 
 Huns graciofos olhos matadores^ 
 ^e as vezes por mortaes jic~o mats belloty 
 Huns dourados Jinijjimos cahellos^ 
 Das madeixas do Sol dcfprezadores : 
 
 Humaface, de donde as proprias cores 
 Da matutina luz tirao modellos ; 
 Huns agrados fao doces, fern fazellosj 
 ^le por elles amor morre de amores ; 
 
 Hum rifo t''o parcia-i da honejlidade; 
 ^ue no infenfivel caufara dejlro^o 
 ^anto mats na razao., e na vontade : 
 
 EJia he a tninha : oh timido ahorogo ! 
 Eu tomo de dizello a liberdade : 
 EJla he a minha ^ . . . a minha .... mas riao poffo. 
 
 *' Two graceful killing eyes, which by being mortal, are 
 " fometimes the more beautiful : fine golden trefles which 
 " defpife the rays of the fun •, a face from which the colours 
 *' of the morning light draw their models ; fuch fweet and un- 
 " affedied graces, that love dies for love of them ; a fmile (o 
 " full of honefty, that it would caufe an emotion even in the 
 ** moft infenfible, how much more in thofe who are mafters 
 " of their own reafon and will ! This is my .... oh timid 
 " embari-aflment ! I take the liberty of telling it : this is.j 
 *' my . . . . . my . . . . , more I cannot."
 
 ^54 A P P E N D I Xi 
 
 Ru "ci huma pajlora etn€erto.dia 
 Felas praias do Tejo andfir brincandof 
 Os redondos feixinhos apanhandQ, 
 ^te no puro regaco recolhia, ■ 
 
 Eu vinella tal gr^i^^y quefaria 
 Inveja a quant as ha; e o gejio brandOf 
 Com que fereno rojlo levant ando, 
 Parece namorava quanta via. 
 
 Eu vi pajfo airofoj a compojluroy 
 Com que depots me pareceo mats beUa, 
 Guiando os cordeirin/ios 7ia efpejjurq. 
 
 Eu digo de todo_ ; vi a EJiella : 
 De grafo-y de candor., de formojura 
 So poderei ver mat's tornando a vella, 
 
 " On a certain day I faw a fhepherdefs diverting herfelf on 
 " the banks of the Tagus, by collecting round pebbles inta 
 " her lap : I faw in her fuch grace, as would caufe envy in 
 *' every woman ; £he was fo delicate in her geftures, and 
 *' fhewed fuch a ferene countenance, that ihe enamoured all 
 ♦' who faw her. I obferved her airy motion, and whole de- 
 *' portment, which appeared more beautiful to me, as £he 
 *' guided her lambs among the woods, and I fay that I faw 
 " a ftar : of grace, of candour, of beauty, I can only fee 
 
 more, by feeing her again." 
 
 i(
 
 APPENDIX. 4^ 
 
 Poz-fe ofoli comoja na fombra fea^ 
 Do dia pouco a pouco a luz defmaia : 
 E a parda mao da noite, antes que caiay 
 De groJJ'as nwvens todo o arfemea. 
 
 Apenas ja divifo a minha a Idea ; 
 Ja do cyprefte nao dijiingo a fata : 
 Tudo emjilencio ejia : fb la na praia 
 Se ouvem quebrar as ondas pela area. 
 
 Go a mao naface a vijla ao ceo lev ant o,- 
 E cheio de mortal melancoUa, 
 Nos trjjlo olhos mal fujlenho o pranto : 
 
 EJe ainda algum alivio ter podia. 
 Era ver eJia noite durar tanto, 
 §lue nunca mats amanhecefje o dia^ 
 
 ** The fun fets ; day-light vanlfhes by little and little, and 
 " turns into difmal obfcurity, and the grey hand of night co- 
 " vers the Ikies with thick clouds. I can fcarcely from my vil- 
 ** lage drftinguifh the tops of the cyprefles ; all is filent ; only 
 " the waves are heard breaking on the fands of the neighbour- 
 " ing fhore. With my head reclining on my hand, I lift up 
 ** my eyes to heaven, and I am loft in mortal melancholy, 
 '* my fdrrowful eyes are bathed in tears ; and, if it were poffible 
 «* to obtain any alleviation, I would wifh the night to endure fo 
 •' long, that day-break fhould never return*." 
 
 * Tliis tranllation is not exa£lly JitexaJ. 
 
 Obras
 
 4j6 APPENDIX. 
 
 Obras Voeticas de 'Domingo dos Ras ^ita^ LifLon 1766, two 
 fmall o£tavo volumes, containing thirty-five fonnets, various 
 eclogues, &c. Hermicne, a tragedy in five a£ts, in verfe. Caf- 
 troy a tragedy of three ads, in verfe, founded on the ftory ot 
 T)ona Ignez ; and Licore, a paftoral drama, of three ads, in verfe. 
 There are no lefs than ten different licences at the end of this 
 work. Another tragedy called Dona Jgfiez de Cafiro^ written 
 by S. Sylveira, was publifhed at Lifbon in 1764. Mr. Mallet's 
 tragedy of Elvira is on the fame fubjed, and it has likewife been 
 tranflated into the German language. 
 
 Athalia, tragedia de Monfieur Racine, Lijhoa 1762. This is 
 tranflated into Portuguefe blank verfe, and printed together with 
 the original French text : at the end are various notes, which are 
 very little to the purpofe. 
 
 O Pfiio FidalgOj Lijhoa 1769, This is a tranflation of Moliere's 
 comedy, Le Bourgeois Gentilhcmme, in five ads in profe, by 
 Captain hdanoel de Soufa^ who has likewife publifhed a profe 
 tranflation of Molieres Tartuffe. 
 
 Two of Goldoni'^ Italian comedies, called la Serva Anioroja, 
 and la Bottega del Cafe *, were tranflated into profe, and aded 
 at Lifbon in i 77 ). 
 
 * In 1757, two of Goldont's comedies were publifhed in the Englifli lan- 
 guage, entitled Tlie Father of a Family^ and Pamela, This author has 
 publifhed upwards of a hundred dramatic pieces. 
 
 In
 
 APPENDIX. 457 
 
 In 1769, a Portuguefe tranflation, in three ads, in profe, 
 was publifhed, of Ben Johnfon's Epicoene : it was aded at Lif- 
 bon, though miferably disfigured. 
 
 There are a great number of Portuguefe theatrical pieces, and 
 among them it is probable there are fome not totally defpicable. 
 In the piece entitled Auto de Scwta Catharina, the dramatis 
 perion^ are St. Catherine, her Mamma, a Hermit, Jefus Chrift, 
 the Virgin Mary, an Emperor, an Emprefs, a Page, three 
 DoiStors, and four Angels. St» Catherine is married to Chrift 
 by the Virgin Mary upon the ftage, and at laft flie is beheaded, 
 and four angels enter finging, and carry off her body. But to 
 the credit of the two nations, I inform the reader, that this 
 kind of abfurd and difgufting ftage performances is at prefent 
 prohibited by royal authority both in Spain and in Portugal. 
 
 A new edition of the Life of Don fohn dc Cajlro, fourth vice- 
 roy of India, was publiftied in the Portuguefe language, Paris 
 1769, 8vo. (4.50 pages) : it was written by facinto Freyre de 
 Andrada. This work is divided into four books ; in the firft we 
 are entertained with an account of a marble crqfs found at Goa, 
 which had been made by Saint Thomas, and how, on a particu- 
 lar day, it firft fweated blood, then became pale, afterwards 
 black, then again of a fplendid blue; and, laftly, returned to 
 its original colour. In the fecond book we are informed, that, 
 during a battle againft the barbarian inhabitants of the Molucca 
 fflands, it rained aflaes upon the enemies heads, and by that 
 
 N n n means
 
 458 APPENDIX. 
 
 means they were vanquifhed by the Portuguefe. In the third 
 book is the copy of a letter which Don John wrote from Diu, 
 in 1 546, to the city of Goa, to borrow money, with a few 
 hairs of his beard inclofed by way of pledge. The inhabitants 
 of Goa lent him the money, and fent his hairs back to him, and 
 they are ftill preferred by his defcendants in a cryftal vafe fet 
 in filver. Don John died in- Goa in 1548, aged forty-eight, 
 having governed that city three years : he was afterwards in? 
 terred in the convent of Bemfica, near Lifbon. 
 
 In 1741, were publifhed at Amfterdam, two odavo volumes^ 
 in the Portuguefe language, of familiar, hiftorical, political, and; 
 critical letters, written from Vienna in 1736 and 1737, by Don 
 Francifco Xavier de Oliveyra ; and, at the fame time, another 
 volume was puWiflied, entitled Travels of Don F. X. Oliveyra, 
 in 1734: the author fet fail from Lifbon, and landed at the 
 Texel near Amfterdam, from thence he proceeded through 
 Hanover, Leipfic, and Prague to Vienna. At the beginning of 
 this work is the following proteftation. " As a true, and at 
 " the fame time unworthy fon of the holy Roman Catholic 
 " apoftolicai mother-church, I fubjed all my writings to the faid 
 " holy mother-church, protefting that I.have not the leaft in- 
 " tention of recounting or faying anything againft her laws, 
 " &c. In the fame manner I fubjcft the faid. writings to the 
 " tribunals of the holy office, and to all other ecclefiaftical and 
 " political tribunals of the kingdom of Portugal, &c. &c. &;c. 
 " &c. Amfterdana 1740." 
 
 liX;
 
 APPENDIX, 459 
 
 In p. 1 6, of this Journal, the author fays, " and as wc had 
 '* been for a week paft expofcd to continual tempefts &c. I took 
 " a refolution to avail myfelf of my reliques. I do not recount 
 " miracles, but I only tell this event as I would any other. At 
 " nine at night I flung into the fea (everal that I had with me, 
 " judging that the moft proper metrhod for a finner to obtain 
 " favours from God, is to have recourfe to thole patrons who 
 " glorioufly enjoy the prefence of that iame God : one of the 
 " principal reliques was of our Lady of Loreto, another of Saint 
 *' Therefa, and another of pope Innocent XI. whom I venerate 
 -" greatly. At four the next morning we difcovered the Scilly 
 " iUes, &c. &c." 
 
 I have the pleafure of being acquainted with the author : he 
 was born in 1702, and came to London in 1744 : two years af- 
 ter which he abjured the Roman Catholic religion, and, in con- 
 fequence had the honour of being burnt in effigy at Lifbon in 
 i;62. 
 
 Don Diego Bernardes, Don Claudio Manuel da Cofta, and 
 another Don, under the fidlitious name of Melizeu Cylenio, 
 each publifhed a volume of poems lately. I have not yet receiv- 
 ed them from Lifbon. 
 
 In 176 f, a flew edition of a work, in two quarto volumes, was 
 publifhed, dedicated to the late king John V. entitled CoUecciio 
 Politica de Apothegtnas de Pedro Joje Suppico. 
 
 N n n 2 A Col-
 
 460 appendix: 
 
 A Colledioa of Voyages by the Portuguefe is alfo ex- 
 tant in one quarto volume. I have not been able to pro- 
 cure either of thele works, fo that I can only indicate their, 
 titles. 
 
 In 173B, a fingle o£lavo volume was publifhed in Paris, en- 
 titled Theatre EjpagnoU by the Du Perrojz de Cajicra before 
 mentioned; it contains extracts from ten Spanifh plays, with, 
 reflexions at the end of each, as pertinent aa the notes to the 
 French Lufiad ; and, in 1770, four more volumes were pub- 
 lifhed under the fame title, byL***, containing tranflations 
 of fifteen plays, and five interludes. 
 
 An Englifh book is extant, entitled The Portugal Hijiory, or- 
 a Relatien of the Troubles that happened in the Court ofPortu-- 
 gal in \6()j^and 1668, in odavo, London, 1677, by S. P. Efq. 
 in which king Alphonfo VI. is charadlerifed as one of the. 
 moft wicked princes that ever exifled. . 
 
 In 1740, was publiflied an odavo volume, entitled The Hif-- 
 tory of the Revolutions of Portugal, with Letters of Sir Robert 
 Southioell during his JLmbafy there in itb-j . 
 
 It may not be thought improper to point out the few prints 
 and maps engraven in Spain and Portugal, or relative to thofe 
 kingdoms, becaufe they cannot be purchafed without being en- 
 quired
 
 APPENDIX. 461^ 
 
 quired for, as noSpanifh nor Portuguefe bookfeller will ac- 
 quaint the curious traveller with their exiftence. Befides thofe 
 which have been mentioned in the courfe of this work, I procur- 
 ed the following : 
 
 A large chart of the bay of Cadiz, publifhed in Paris, 1762, 
 by k Sieur Bellin. 
 
 A large chart of the Straits of Gibraltar, with a plan of the 
 town and fortifications, and tables of the tides, Paris, 1761, 
 Bellin. Thefe two charts were publifhed by order of the duke^ 
 of Choifeul for the ufe of the king's fhips. 
 
 A large and exact map of Portugal, Paris 1762, by RizzL 
 Zannoni. 
 
 Topo-hydrographical plan of the bay of Gibraltar, Paris. 
 
 A topographical map of the Streights of Gibraltar, with 
 tide tables. 
 
 Geometrical plan of Gibraltar, with the new fortifications. 
 Thefe were both publifhed in Madrid, J 762, by Lopez. 
 
 Seven whole-fheet views in Sevllla : thefe were engraven in 
 1738. They are badly executed, but the reprefentations are 
 exaft. They confift: of a general view, with the bridge of boats ; 
 the outfide of the cathedral, with the tower ; the exchange, 
 with a procefTion of children redeemed from flavery; the town- 
 houfe, with the procefTion on Corpus Chrijli A^j ; the magnifi- 
 cent church of the Jefuits, built near the fpot where St. Ignatius 
 de Loyola was born ; the royal feminary of Sant' Elmo, and the 
 Hofpital de la Sangre. . 
 
 A fet.
 
 462 APPENDIX. 
 
 A fet of eight prints was publiflied in Madrid 1757, tolerably 
 well engraven ; they arc, general view of the aquedu6t of Sego- 
 via; view of the fix middle arches of the aqueduct, on a larger 
 fcale ; view of another part of the aquedudt ; front view of the 
 royal palace of Aranjuez ; another view of the fame palace ; the 
 Toledo bridge in Madrid, with elevations of the center arch, 
 and other parts, on a larger fcale ; a monaflery, and a church 
 in Madrid. 
 
 A whole flieet coloured print, entitled EJlado Militar dc 
 Efpana, being the figures of a foldier from every regiment, ca- 
 valry and infantry, in the proper uniform. 
 
 A fheet with the figures of thirty founders of religious orders 
 which exift in Spain, in their proper habits. 
 
 Four very large prints were publifhed in London in 1756, de- 
 dicated to his majefty (then prince of Wales); they are fo ex- 
 tremely well executed, that they merit particular mentions 
 they were all drawn by C. Lempriere, and painted by R. 
 Paton. 
 
 r. General view of Liibon as before the earthquake, engraven 
 by Anthony Walker. 
 
 2. View from the Tagus of the country between Alcantara 
 and Bellem, by P. C. Canot. 
 
 3. View of Bellem, by P. Foudrinier. 
 
 4. View of the country weflward of Bellem, by J. Mafon. 
 There is a fmall view of the city of Oporto publiflied in 
 
 London, by J. and C. Bowles. 
 
 Several
 
 APPENDIX. 463 
 
 Several prints have been publifhed in Madrid by Carmona, 
 Fabregat, and other engravers, reprefenting landfcapes, and 
 other inifcellaneous pieces. 
 
 If I were to travel again in Spain, I fliould purfue the follow- 
 ing route, which would nearly complete the tour of that king- 
 dom : fuppofing I were at Bayonne, I would crofs the Pyrenean 
 mountains at Fuenterabia, or Pampeluna in Navarre, vifit Bil- 
 bao, in the lordfhip of Bifcay, Orduiia, Santillana, and Oviedo 
 in the Afturias; Ferrol, which is one of the three marine depart- 
 ments, Coruiia, from which place to Falmouth Englifh packets 
 formerly failed and returned -, Santiago de Compoftella, a cele^ 
 brated refort of pilgrims, all in Galicia ; then to Leon, the capi- 
 tal of the kingdom of the fame name, through Palencia to 
 Burgos; to Soria, near which place are the ruins of Numancia; 
 to Saragoffa, capital of Aragon, fituated on the river Ebro ; to 
 Tortofa, near the mouth of that river, and then along the coaft 
 to Barcelona ; the environs of which city, and indeed the whole 
 principality ofCataluna, are faid to be as well cultivated, and as. 
 fertile as the kingdoms of Valencia, Naples, or any part of Eu- 
 rope, and the inhabitants as numerous and as Induftrious as 
 thofe of Holland. Near Barcelona Is the convent and her- 
 mitage of Monferrat, fituated on the fummit of a high moun- 
 tain*; and from thence through GIronaj crofs the Pyrenea-n 
 
 * In a German book in foiio, publlflied in 1735, at Leipzig, entitled 
 Hljhrifchn- ScbaufLlz, in -uiekkcm die Mirhvurd'igfic7i BrMen der IFeh,
 
 464 A P P E N D I X.. 
 
 mountains to Perpignan : it would fcarcely be worth going 
 down to Alcantara, to fee the bridge built over the Tagus by 
 Trajan, nor to Badajoz, where there is a bridge of thirty arches 
 over the river Guadiana. 
 
 Mv defign was to have travelled from Oporto to Santiago de 
 Compoftella, but the roads are impafiable in carriages, and the 
 feafon would not admit of travelling on horfeback, fo that in or- 
 der to arrive at Salamanca, I was obliged to return half-way to 
 •Coimbra : it is eafy to trace an intended route, but very difficult 
 to put it in practice in thefe kingdoms. I travelled the direct 
 road from Aranjuez to Valencia, and by the track on the map 
 may be feen how much it deviated from a ftrait line. If I had 
 gone from Madrid to Saragoffa and Barcelona, it would have 
 made a difference in point of time of at leaft three months, fo 
 that by reafon of the advanced feafon, I fhould have loft the op' 
 portunity of embarking at Cadiz. 
 
 Mr. Garrlck has been fo kind as to favour me with his imita- 
 tion of the Spanifli Madrigal, infertedin p. 399, with which I 
 fliall conclude this Appendix. 
 
 in profpciien vorgejlellet und befckneben -werdett, von Carl Chijlian Schramm, or 
 Defcription of the moft remaikablc Bridges in the World, with eighty-feven 
 very lar'^e Copper-plates; one of the plates reprefents a very extraordinary 
 brido-e between Barcelona and Monferrat, with a profpeft of that mountain. 
 
 JFor
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 For me my fair a wreath has wove, 
 Where rival flow'rs in union meet ; 
 As oft fhe kifs'd this gift of love. 
 Her breath gave fweetnefs to the fweet. 
 
 A bee within a damafk rofe 
 Had crept, the neclar'd dew to fip ; 
 But lefler fweets the thief foregoes. 
 And fixes on Louifa's lip. 
 
 There, tailing all the bloom of fpring, 
 Wak'd by the rip'ning breath of May, 
 Th' ungrateful fpoiler left his fting. 
 And with the honey fled away. 
 
 465 
 
 S.^. Gnam Aehn' 
 
 Oo o 
 
 INDEX.
 
 N 
 
 D 
 
 E 
 
 X. 
 
 AQinEDUCT at Lifbon, p. 7. 
 Coimbra, 46. 
 
 Segovia, 83. 
 
 Aranjuez, 187. 
 /Ilcobafa, 39. 
 /llmanfn, 195. 
 Alicanle, 2 1 6. 
 Almeida, 55. 
 Anteqtiera, 456. 
 Alcafar, at Segovia, 83. 
 
 Tokdo, 1 84. 
 
 Sevilla, 307. 
 
 Amphitheatre foe the bull-fights at 
 Lijhon, 32 
 
 — — Madrid, 157. 
 
 AriinjueT,, 188. 
 
 Granada, 2 
 
 j:)" 
 
 ■ Cadiz, 288, 318. 
 
 Per/ 5r. Mrtfj, 288. 
 
 • — — Sevilla, 305. 
 
 Amphitheatre, Roman, of Saguntum, 
 207. 
 
 Anthony, St. generaliflimo, 31. 
 Aloe work-bags, 36. 
 Afs, price of one, 64. 
 Archives of Sjain, 65. 
 Apes and monkies, 269. 
 Armoury and arfenal, 317. 
 Arabic curiofities, 236. 
 AiTallin's body expofed, 66. 
 AraelucohiXil, oxhce.-c%t&v, 25.7. 
 
 Appendix, 338. 
 Araucana, poem, 386. 
 Academy at la TJla, 317. 
 Auto-de Je, book of an, 444. 
 Army, Portugucfe, 22. 
 Spani(h, 226. 
 
 B 
 
 Batalha, 43. 
 
 Be Hem, 10. 
 
 Buen-retiro, 151. 
 
 BafTo relievo of a mufical inflru- 
 ment, 65. 
 
 of Leda, 243. 
 
 at St. Ildefonfo, 92. 
 
 Baboons cleanfing heads, 22. 
 
 Bull-fight, 28B. 
 
 Bull of the crufada, 326. 
 
 Barilla plant, 217. 
 
 Bee-eater, 257. 
 
 Beetle, the tumble-dung, 247. 
 
 Buffaloes, 188. 
 
 Black and white beings, 332. 
 
 Bones found in the rock of Gibral- 
 tar, 270. 
 
 Books, catalogue of, 367. 
 
 Book, dedicated to God, 269. 
 
 Bridge on boats, 302. 
 
 Cintra, iS. 
 CalnZ, 21 • 
 
 •Coimhra^
 
 N 
 
 Coimlra, 46. 
 
 Ciudad Rodrigo, 57. 
 
 Coca, 7 1 . 
 
 Carthagena, 223. 
 
 Cordova, 250. 
 
 C^riiima, 261. 
 
 Ceuta, in Africa, 274. 
 
 Chiclana, 279. 
 
 Cadiz, 280. 
 
 Coins, Poituguefe, 24. 
 
 Spanrth, 84. 
 
 Citie-, number of", in S})ain, 336» 
 
 Convents, ditto, ditto, ibid. 
 
 Criminals chained, 51. 
 
 Charles V. 67, and 
 
 Chancery, royal, at Valladolid, 69. 
 
 Clothes, old, 84. 
 
 Court of Spain, where pafs the year, 
 88. 
 
 Crucifix by Cellini, 102. 
 
 Comedy, plot of a Spanilh, 160. 
 -Camels, 188.. 
 
 Cameleons, 319. 
 Carrobe-tree, 197, 217. 
 Cork-tree, 264. 
 Cotton-fields, 255. 
 Cock-fight, 249. 
 Carriages, four-wheeled, 196. 
 Chronological tables, 204. 
 Colony ot Germsn^, 2 i;o. 
 Catalogue of books, 367. 
 Caflles, Moorifti, of Alcobafa, 39. 
 
 • Almanfa, 195. 
 
 . Sax,. 216. 
 
 Cortejo, or Cicijbeo, 1 7, 234^ 3^25. 
 Caimo, father, ^di 
 
 D 
 
 Drefs, 28, 33, 231. 
 
 Days of deliverance 
 
 tory, 172, 328. 
 
 from 
 
 purga- 
 
 Entrance into Spain, ^6. 
 
 Efcorial, the, 98. 
 
 Elche, 220. 
 
 Ecija, 248. 
 
 Echo at Toledo, 185. 
 
 Elephants, 13, 300. 
 
 Elartic gum, 322. 
 
 Embriologia Sacra, 269. 
 
 Englilli and Scotch colleges, 66. 
 
 nunnery at Lilbon, 32. 
 
 ■ carriages and furniture, 254 
 
 theatre at Gibraltar, 272. 
 
 book dedicated to God, 269. 
 
 Fandongo, 17, 156. 
 Female knights, 62. 
 Fountains at 5/. lldefonfo, 88. 
 
 Aranjuez, 189. 
 
 Ocana, 192. 
 
 French theatre at Cadiz, 2S0. 
 
 gavachos, 1 40. 
 
 Farce, plot of a Spaniili, 164. 
 Fielding, buried at Lij%cn in 1756, 
 
 ^ -7- . 
 
 Foundling hofpitals, 222. 
 
 Q 
 
 Granada, 233. 
 Gibraltar, 268. 
 
 model of, 2734 
 
 Guadarama, pafs of, 98. 
 Guaditliuixir liver, 314. 
 Glow-worms, ladies decorated with, , 
 
 282. 
 Gum, ejaftic, 322. 
 Green-oaks, 264. 
 G a/pa c ho, ox Soupe, 278.. 
 Graadces, 176. 
 
 Gypfies,. .
 
 N 
 
 D 
 
 E 
 
 X. 
 
 Gypfies, 179. 
 
 Gardens of St. Ildefonfo, 88. 
 
 ^ranjuez, 189. 
 
 H 
 
 Hillory of Portugal, ^47. 
 
 --— Spain, 2>S5' 
 
 Horfes, 253. 
 
 Julian, St. caftle of, 14. 
 
 I.defcnfo, St. 86. 
 
 Ifland of Santa Pola, 218. 
 
 jo7-ge Juan, Don, 220. 
 
 InqLiifuion, 33. 
 
 Irilh nunnery at Be/km, 32. 
 
 college at Salamanca, 58. 
 
 regiments, three. 226. 
 
 Italian opera at Lifbon, 2. 
 
 Bc'llem, 10, 
 
 Oporto, 48. 
 
 Ceuta, 274. 
 
 • Cadiz, 281. 
 
 Ladi 
 
 les. 
 
 :>'■* D 
 
 Itinerary, 338. 
 
 K 
 
 King of Portugal, i u 
 
 • Spain, 167. 
 
 Knighthood, orders of, in Portu- 
 gal, 23. 
 
 Spain, 177. 
 
 female, 62. 
 
 Kermes, trees which produce the, 264. 
 
 Lifion^ I. 
 Leyria, 45. 
 Lorca, 227. 
 La TJla, 300. 
 
 .3i3'.324- 
 Liquorice, 312. 
 Larks, 63. 
 Lufiad, poem, 37 q. 
 Liquefadion of blood, 
 
 6, 62, 144, 282, 
 
 IS- 
 
 M 
 
 Mafra, 1 3 
 
 J- 
 
 Madrid, 139. 
 
 Mejorada, 169. 
 
 Morviedro, 207. 
 
 Murcia, 220. 
 
 Malaga, 21(9. 
 
 Miihcurs, St. cave, 270. 
 
 May, Mrs. 9. 
 
 Monkies at Gibraltar, 273. 
 
 Madder plants, 158. 
 
 Model oi Gibraltar, 273, 
 Marbles, 237. 
 Moorifli palace, 240. 
 
 caflles, 39, 195, 216, &rc, 
 
 Mefquita, in Cordova, 23 1 . 
 Mills, 32, 84, 306. 
 A'Jaeftranzas, Ibcicties, 238. 
 Mofaic at l.^ifbon, 3. 
 
 Madrid, 1 :; 1 . 
 
 Menagerie at lieilem, 13. 
 
 Mufic, 9. 
 
 Man burnt alive, ^4. 
 
 Mint at Sego\ ia, 84. 
 
 Manufactory of fword-bludes, 1S6. 
 
 plate-glafs, 87. 
 
 knives, 195. 
 
 Mountains, Sierra Nevada, 231. 
 
 AlpHxarra, ibid . 
 
 Sierra de Ejlrdla, 52. 
 
 — ^^ Sierra Moroia, 230. 
 
 N 
 
 Naples, annunl miracle at, 174. 
 Navy of Portugd, 22. 
 
 F ]i p 2 Navy
 
 N 
 
 X. 
 
 Navy bf Spain, 225. 
 Navigation of rivers, 29^ 
 
 O 
 
 Odive'as; convent of, 36.. 
 Opcric, 48. 
 Olmeuo, 71. 
 Oca-rta, 192. 
 Operas, fee Italian^. 
 Orders, fee Knighthood.. 
 Old clothes, 84.^ 
 Orange-tree, 50. 
 Obfervatory in CadiZy 283. 
 
 Porto, 48. 
 
 Portuguefe, theatres 2,. 48.. 
 
 royal family, 1 1. 
 
 — coins, 24. 
 
 hirtory, 347. 
 
 books, 375, 452- 
 
 Produdtion of Portugal,. 28. 
 
 Spair, 256, 334. 
 
 Population of L//Z'(7W, 26. 
 
 — Spain, 336. 
 
 Port St. Mary, 2S8, 315- 
 Port Royal, 316.. 
 Pardc, the, 169. 
 Pruning of trees, 30.. 
 Pigeon-houfes, 41.. 
 Pantheon, io8. 
 Pafs of Guadarama, 98.. 
 Plot of a comedy, 160. 
 
 an interlude, 1 64. 
 
 Purgatory, 173, 328. 
 
 Prayers for drowned perfons, 314. 
 
 at z Lao, 316. 
 
 Penitent hdies, 324.. 
 
 Palaces, at Be Hem, iz^ 
 
 Caluz, 2 1 . 
 
 Val'adoltd, 67. 
 
 Segovia, 83. 
 
 St. lldefonfo, 86. 
 
 new ditto, 97.. 
 
 the Efcorial, 98. 
 
 Madrid, 140. 
 
 el Par do, 169. 
 
 el Buen retire, 151.. 
 
 Toledo, 184. 
 
 . Aranjuez, 189. 
 
 Granada, 240. 
 
 ditto Aihambra, ibid. 
 
 ■ Scvilia, 307. 
 
 Pid:ures at L//2'o«, 12. 
 
 Caluz, 2 1 . 
 
 Salamanca, 58. 
 
 Valladolid, 66. 
 
 St. Udefonfo, 190. 
 
 • the Efcorial, 111. 
 
 , Madrid, 143. 
 
 el Buen- re tiro, 151.- 
 
 — Loeches, 171. 
 
 Lorca, 227. 
 
 Granada, 237. 
 
 Malaga, 260 
 
 Cadiz, 282. 
 
 Sevilla, 308. 
 
 Port St. Mary 
 
 ■ • Port Royal, 
 
 315- 
 317- 
 
 R 
 
 Ronda, 265. 
 Roque, cape, 14. 
 
 San, 267. 
 
 Rabbit-warren, 41. 
 K.oads, dangerous, 263, &c. &c., 
 itinerary of the, 338. 
 
 Reliques, 105, 202. 
 
 Ra'ns,.
 
 I 
 
 N 
 
 D 
 
 X. 
 
 Rains, heavy, 35. 
 Raifins, 334. 
 
 Spanijh books, 386. 
 Sea-voyage, 336. 
 
 Salamanca, 58. 
 Simanca, 65. 
 Segovia, 72. 
 Sax, 216. 
 Sevilla, 301. 
 St. Jnthony, 31. 
 
 — Raphael, 250. 
 
 — Cecilia, 9. 
 
 — Roque, 267. 
 
 — Pola, 218. 
 
 — Julian, 14. 
 
 — Michael, 270. 
 
 — Philip, 198. 
 
 — Ildefonfo, 86. 
 
 Santiago, female knights of, 62. 
 Saints, Venetian, 326. 
 Stones in ftrange pofitions, 55- 
 Storks, 57. 
 Scotch college, 66. 
 Sheep, management of, 72 
 Silk-worms, 199. 
 Statues at Bellem, 13. 
 
 St. Ildefoi^fo, 92. 
 
 Souls delivered, 173,. 328. 
 
 Soldiers, hired, 228. 
 
 Shells, large, 321. 
 
 Snakc-ftone, 321. 
 
 Salmon, 5. 
 
 Spaiti, hiftory of, 355. 
 
 . royal family of, 167..- 
 
 population of, 336. 
 
 Spanifi theatre at Madrid, 159.. 
 , Cadiz, 280. 
 
 Sevilla, 305. 
 
 army, 226. 
 navy, 
 
 225:. 
 
 Toro, 64. 
 Tordejillas, 65. 
 To'edo, 180. 
 Tobofo, el, 1 94. 
 Tetuan, 275. 
 Toads, 319. 
 
 Tumble-dung beetle, 247. 
 Thunny-fifli, 335. 
 Tobacco prohibited, 31. 
 
 fabric, 306. 
 
 Travelling, method of, 37, 196* 
 Trade to America, 282. 
 
 wine, 50. 
 
 Tower at Sevilla, 314. 
 
 fhaking, 313. 
 
 topfyturvy, 314.- 
 
 Towers, watch, 313. 
 
 Valkdolid, 65. 
 Valencia, 200. 
 Venta, a, defcribcd, 39. 
 Virgin Mary, 239, 244. 
 Voyage at fea, 336. 
 
 Oil a river, 314. 
 
 Venetian (^m\.s, 326. 
 Ulloa, Dan Antonio de, 312. 
 
 W 
 
 Women and hogs, 286=. 
 Water-nymphs, 286. 
 Wind-mills, 3^2. 
 
 Wheeli.
 
 I N 
 
 Wheels to ralfe water, 329. 
 Wine trade at Oporto, 5a. 
 
 Xerez, 299. 
 
 Wild-boars, 187. 
 Wolves, 256. 
 
 X 
 
 Xativa, 198. 
 
 D E X. 
 
 Xerez Se la Fronleroy 299. 
 
 Zamora, 63. 
 Zebras, 13. 
 
 N 
 
 s. 
 
 Page 14.. line 6. for erafed, r^a</rafed j p. 35. 1. ii. for autos da fe. read autos de fe ; p. 49. 
 1. 4. for of, read to ; p. 65- for erect dos, read creciJos ; p. 74, 1. 11. for (heap read ewes ; p. 99. 
 I. »i. a//fr martyrdom, read except the crofs ; p. lOO. \. 7. for hie^id, readbi^rd: p. 141. 1. 5. 
 for one the top, read on the top ; p. 745. fcrpentice, rezA pernici ; p. 151. 1. 10. for whole a, read 
 awbole; p- 174- (orjjour, Te^Afejour ; p. 17 5. 1. 17. /or winter, readi'fv'mg; p. 19-. 1. \6. after 
 produces, </f/f in ; p. i68/or 1706, read\-!0\; p. 277. I. 5./ocwith, rf^j./ without ; p. 198. //z/7 
 //n^, /or exhibit, r^a^ exhibited ; p. 318. 1. 12. /or his, read \l%; p. 348. I. 3. _/or year the, reoM 
 the year; p. 369 !. 3. delesnA; p. 371. \,iy{otacro, ce^dfacro ; p. 4I0. firft line of the Spaniih 
 fonnet, for -vwlanle, read yialemtt.
 
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