THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
MISSIONARY VOYAGE
TO THE
SOUTHERN PACIFIC OCEAN,
PERFORMED
'- IN THE YEARS I796, 1797, 1798,
IN THE
SHIP DUFF,
COMMANDED BY
CAPTAIN JAMES WILSON.
COMPILED FROM
JOURNALS OF THE OFFICERS AND THE MISSIONARIES;
AND ILLUSTKATED WITH
i^ajjs, €\)Rvts, anil Oietos,
Drawn by Mr. William Wilson, and engraved by the mod eminent Artifts.
WITH A
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE
ON THE
GEOGRAPHY AND HISTORY OF THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS;
AND AN
APPENDIX,
INCLUDING DETAILS NEVJEIl BEFORE PUBLISHED, OF THE
NATURAL AND CIVIL STATE OF OTAHEITE;
'by a committee APPOINTED FOR, THE. PURPOSE BY THE DIRECTORS OF THE
MISSIONARY SOCIETY.
PUBLISHED FOR THE BENEFIT OF THE SOCIETY.
LONDON:
PRINTED BY S. GOSNEJLL,
" FOR T.' CHAPMAN, N" 151, FLEET STREET.
1799.
enteitti at stationers JDaU,
510
PRINTS.
General Map
Harbour of Rio Janeiro
Miffionary Settlement at Matava'
View of Taloo Harbour
Ifland of Tongataboo
Gambier'slflands
Marqucfas Iflands
Ifland of Otaheite
Great Moral of Oberea
Moral and Ark of the Eatooa at
Fiatookas of Futtafaihe
Feejee Iflands
Duff's Group . •
Attahooroo
to face
Page
• 1
3°
77
83
97
128
185
207
21 1
284
287
296
LG283i
US S.;V3
ERRATA.
Page,
iv,
Xii,
ib.
xiii,
xiii,
xxiii,
li.
Ix,
Ixx,
xcviii,
»!>.
5«.
54.
58,
7J,
IC8,
ib.
"3.
■if)
'5'.
>6o,
>?o.
'7'.
Line from
bottom.
33.
unit , on the loth of the fame
month.
12, /or is, rtaj, arc.
I, /or Oamm, reaJ, Oammo.
'3, Z^'' thirteen, r^aJ, many.
22, /or t6th, r<".i.y, 14th.
29, o«r;/ the r«ft, confiding of.
2, /or ubftitute, rcaJ, fubftitute.
15, omit end.
12, /or thcfc, rroi, the Feje.
4, /or tranfcendant, rmd, trartfcendent.
22, ii/frr thus, aJJ, , fays a mifiionary.
8, after (hore, aJJ, , fays Mr.'Wilfon.
XI, /or f, ffijt/, of.
• 3. I9> y<"' Ohaitapcha, riad, Mataiai.
20, a/tir Gaulton, add^^ (a probationer).
5, /or tile, rlaJ, title.
12, yi/- i h, ready with.
20, /or we, riad, the brethren.
17, yv in the,, r^.«/, this.
7, yir communiaie, riad, communicate.
15, /or cut, read, hut.
9, yir Lock, read. Cock.
8, yiraflembed, «<ii/, affcmbled.
10, /or Whyooa, read, Whydooa.
29, after pilfer, add, from.
24, a/ter life, ai/</, , fays \V. Puekey.
Page.
196,
Line from
bottom.
28 C"id el/e-wherej , for Pytouah, riaa,
Whydooa.
, ' > /or Sinnet, read, Skinner.
^+> J
/or throughont, read, throughout.
for 1 8 th, read, 15th.
;::f^o1:: }«'"'. roo-sse.
after Dooatonga, add, (as Futtafaihe i»
entitled).
a/ter the, add, fouth-
after July ift, add, (at Aheefo).
/or iWooe, read, Moorce.
after 12th, add, (at Ardco).
after 14th, add, (at Aheefo).
/or third, read, fourth.
a/ter 26th, add, (at Ardeo).
flA<-r 3cth, add, (at Aheefo).
omit others.
after fay, add, any.
>>• 180" 30', read, iSi" 13'.
yir Maitland, read, Direflion.
for everal, read, feveral.
/or Warto, re.id, Warro.
/or Shievo, read, Heevo.
/or Morris, read, Maurice.
/or wrinkles, read, winkles-
ii3.
>£.
230.
7,
245.
27.
255.
25.
251.
13,
ib.
7.
=59,
260,
29,
20,
ib.
. 2,
261,
20,
.262,
265.
ib.
.24.
28,
18,
270,
. ib.
30.
16,
288,
32.
• ib.
•>2,
298,
2.
J04.
ib.
6.
5.
343.
23,
TO THE
KING.
SIRE,
1 O whom can the Miflionary Society
fo properly dedicate thefe firll-fruits of their labours as
to Your Majesty, by whofe order the voyages of
difcovery were firft undertaken, which have brought
into view the numerous iflands difperfed over the Pacific
Ocean ? The reports made concerning them attracted
the gener^^ attention of European nations ; and Your
Majesty's fubjefts felt themfelves peculiarly interefled,
whether their views led them to confider thefe difcoveries
as tending to enlarge the bounds of fcience, or as opening
a field of commercial fpeculation. A nobler objeft,
Sire, has engaged the attention of the Miffionary Society,
who, believing CHRISTIANITY to be the greateiV
blefiing ever imparted to mankind, defired to communi-
cate that ineftimable gift, with all its happy efi'e^ts, to
thefe unenlio-htened re2:ions.
a 2
DEDICATION.
On landing among thcfe iflanders, our compaffions
were more powerfully excited to find their population
greatly diminiflicd, and, through the prevalence of vice,
tending to utter extinftion. On this account we con-
ceivc it to be our duty to make the moft vigorous efforts,
in dependence on the bleffing of Almighty God, for the
amelioration of their wretched eftate.
Perfuaded of Your Majesty's gracious approbation
of our labours, and encouraged by the moft aufpicious
commencements, we have determined on renewed ex-
ertions. Whatever beneficial confequences may refult
from the attempt, we fliall be happy to afcribe them,
under GOD, to Your Majesty's government as their
origin ; and we embrace this public occalion of offering
the dutiful homage of
Your Majesty's
Moft refpeftful and loyal fubjeds, "
THE DIRECTORS OF THE MISSIONARY SOCIETY.
ADVERTISEMENT.
JL HE impatience of our brethren to gratify the curiofity of the
pubhc, muft plead our excufe that the following papers are arranged
in a lefs lucid order than we could have wifhed. In colle<fting from
the public and private journals, wt have defired to preferve the lan-
guage of the relator, which, if not the moft polifhed, may not-
withftanding be the moft affedling. The body of the journal is
the compofition of Mr. William Wilfon, from the Captain's papers,
his own, and the Miffionaries' reports. As there was a neceflity of
filling up fome chapters from the journals of the Millionaries them-
felves, there will fometimes be obferved a change of perfons, accord-
ing as individuals, or the body, are introduced fpeaking. It is hoped
that our readers will pardon this defeat, and that whatever perplexity
it may occafion will be removed by referring to the lift of £/-/-a/^.
It was deemed improper to alter cuftomary maritime phrafes for the
fake of grammatical accuracy. We ftiall be truly happy, if the in-
formation here detailed fliall produce fonie powerful impreftion on
the minds of our countrymen ; intereft them more tenderly in
behalf of the wretched heathen ; and excite fuitable efforts to repair
the miferies which Europeans have in part occafioned, as well as to
refcue from deftrudlion of body and foul a gentle race of fellow-men,
who have, toward our own nation efpecially, expreflcd the moft
affcdionate attachment.
CONTENTS.
PrELIMINART discourse ------ Page i
Hijiorical Account of Otaheite -------- vii
IJlands confie^ed with Otaheite -------- xxxvi
TongataboOy and the IJlands conneBed with it - - - - xlvi
Ohittahoo, and the other IJlands called the Marqucjas - Ixxiii
Instructions to Captain Wilfon --__--_ Ixxxix
FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE.
CHAPTER 1.
Introdu5lion — Appointment of MiJJionaries and Ship's Crew i
CHAPTER 11.
Embarkation, Departure from the River — Stay at Portjmouth 8
CHAPTER III.
Voyage from Portfnouth to St. Jago — Occitrrences there -■ l8
CHAPTER IV.
Run to Rio Janeiro — Reception, and Obfervations _- - - 26
a
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER V.
Departure from Rio Janeiro — Arrival at Otaheitc - - Page 39
CHAPTER VI.
Occurrences on landing at Otaheite, and during the frji Vifit to that
JJland - 56
CHAPTER VII.
^hort Voyage to Eimeo, and Return to Otaheite . - - - 83
CHAPTER VIII.
Divifion of the Mijfionaries — Voyage to Tonga taboo - _ - 92
CHAPTER IX.
Occurrences during the firjl Vijit to Tongataboo - - _ - 57
CHAPTER X.
Voyage to the Marquefas — Difcoveries made - - --- 113
CHAPTER XI.
Occurrences at the Marquefas - - -------128
CHAPTER XII.
Return from the Marquefas to Otaheite— -TraufaEiions during our
Aifence - ---_--._--»>_-- 14^
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XIII.
TranfaSlions during our Stay at Otaheite — Survey to a/certain the
Population of the IJlund - ----___ Page 179
CHAPTER XIV.
Tranfa^ions at Otaheite to our fnal Departure - - - - 216
CHAPTER XV.
Return toTongataboo — Occurrences during our Abfence - - 227
CHAPTER XVI.
Defcription of Tongataboo - - -----.«_ 273
CHAPTER XVII.
Tranfa5lions at Tongataboo during the Ship's Stay - - - 382
CHAPTER XVIII.
Pajfagefrom Tongataboo to China - ------- 286
CHAPTER XIX.
Occurrences at China, and Voyage ho?ne - - ----jn
CONTENTS.
APPENDIX.
Introduction - ---------- Page 319
Sect. I. Face of the Country at Otaheite - - - - 320
II. Government— Ranks in Society— Property - 325
III. Inhabitants — Men, Women, Children — Abodes t^^S
IV. Deities of Otaheite 344
V. Priejihood and Sacrifices - - - - - - 348
VI. Singular Cujioms - - ' 352
VII. AmufcmejUs _--- 367
VIII. Cookery - 37
IX. Birds - - - 381
X. Fijhery Z^Z
XI. Trees and Shrubs -- 388
XII. Canoes 397
XIII. Difeafes - - 403
XIV. Comparative State - ------- 406
Articles of Faith drawn up by the Miffionaries - - - - 410
^
2
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE;
CONTAINING A
GEOGRAPHICAL AND HISTORICAL ACCOUNT
OF THE
ISLANDS WHERE MISSIONARIES HAVE SETTLED,
AND OP OTHERS WITH WHICH THEY ARE CONNECTED.
J- HE relation which geographical knowledge bears to miflionary
exertion is as obvious as it is important. If fincere and enlightened
Chriftians had been attentive to the magnitude, the population, and
the moral and religious ftate of the countries which are ftill dcftitutc
of the gofpel, it feems impoffible that they fliould ever have remitted
their labours for the converfion of the heathen. A deficiency of
information upon thefe interefting fubjeds is not merely to be la-
mented as an occafion of fatal negligence j it is alfo to be guarded
againft as a caufe of error, and of failure, in the condudt of miflionary
efforts. If thefe are excited only by cafual difcovcries of the wretched
condition in which fome detached parts of the heathen world exift,
other nations are liable to be difrcgarded, which, in a variety of
refpeds, might be preferable objedls of evangelical miffions.
For the reafons which determined the Miflionary Society at Lon-
cfon to commence its operations with a voyage to the Pacific CX:can,
we refer the reader to a well-known Memoir, which was publicly
delivered when the Society was formed in September 1795, and is
annexed to an impreflion of the Sermons that were preached on
the occafion. That decifion having been made, the utmoll diligence
was ufed to colledl into a difl:in6t and comprchenfive view, the in-
formation that was fcattered through numerous priiitcd volumes, oi-
b
ii PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
was attainable bv means of manufcript and verbal communications,
rcfpcding thofc iflands which it appeared pradlicable to vifit in the
projedled voyage. An cxtenfivc compilation of this nature was put
into the hands of the mifTionaries ; and feveral maps were conftrudled,
to illultrate the geographical details, as well as to aflifl the intended
navigation ; the materials from which thefe were formed having till
then remained unconne<fted, or been exhibited only upon a minute
general fcalc.
By an abridgment of the accounts thus compiled, it is attempted,
in this preliminary difcourfe, to gratify perfons who may wifh for a
compendium of the principal information to be derived from former
voyages refpeding the three iflands to which our miffionaries have
happily gained accefs. Thefe places are defcribed in the fame order
in which they were vifited by Captain Wilfon ; and to the account
ot each is fubjoined a brief defcription of other iflands with which
a habitual intercourfe is maintained from thence ; and to which we
may therefore hope the ufefulnefs of our brethren will gradually be
extended *. A few general remarks upon the Pacific Ocean, and
the countries fituated within its limits, appear neceffary both to in-
troduce and to conclude the whole.
This ocean, which covers almoft half the globe, was unknown
to Europeans at the commencement of the fixteenth century, having
been firfl: feen from the ifthmus that conneds the continents
called North and South America, on the 25th of September 151 J,
by a Spaniard named Bafcx) Nunez de Balboa. Its weftern boundary
had been approached by the Portuguefe only two years earlier,
Francifco Serrano having difcovered the Molucca iflands immediately
after the conqueft of Malacca by the celebrated Albuquerque. To
* The general chart of Captain Wilfon's track is necefTarily upon too fmall a fcale to afford
a fuitable reprefentation of thefe iflands ; but they are all delineated, an inch to a degree, in one
of the above-n-.entioned maps, which has been publifhed for the benefit of die Miffionary So-
ciety, and is fold by Mr. Faden, Charing Crofs, and Rlr. Chapman, Fleet Street, price los. 6^
plain, or 15s. coloured.
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. m
ftlmulate exertion, and to preclude contention in the rival dilcovcrcrs
from Spain and Portugal, Pope Alexander the Sixth configned to the
dominion of thefe two nations all heathen countries that fhould be
difcovered by them ; and allotted to each one half of the globe, com-
mencing from the weftcrn limits of Brazil in South America, of
which province the Portuguefc had previoufly obtained polTclIion.
The imperfc*iT:ion of geographical fcience at that time left it doubtful
to isi'hick of thefe hemifpheres the Moluccas belonged ; and the pre-
cious fpices peculiar to thofe fmall iflands rendered the dccifion im-
portant. To afcertain this was the purpofe of the firft voyage
acrofs the Pacific Ocean. It was planned and executed by Hernando
de Magalhancs, who had ferved under Albuquerque at Malacca;
but having been ill rewarded by the court of Portugal, he withdrew
to Spain, from whence he failed with five fhips under his command
on the 2ift of September 1519. He wintered in South America,
and, in the Ocftober following, difcovered the flrait which has
fince borne his name. He entered the great South Sea on the zSth
of November 1520; and having advanced northward to the tropic
of Capricorn, proceeded in a north-weft courfe with fuch eafe and
rapidity, that he judged the vaft ocean he was traverfing worthy to
be called the Pacific. It is well known, that the prevailing winds
between the tropics follow the path of the fun, where they are not
diverted from it by heights of land ; and the incomparable breadth
of this ocean aflfords an uninterrupted palTage to thofe earterly currents
of air, which, on account of the advantages that navigators derive
from their regularity, are called the trade winds. Magalhanes
having crofted the equator too foon to meet with the fertile iflands
of the fouthern tropic, found no place of refreftiment till the 6th of
March 1 52 1, when he difcovered a range of fmall iflands in the
longitude of 146 degrees eaft from Greenwich, and extending from
13 to 20i degrees of north latitude. He named them Ladrones, on
account of the thicvifla difpofition of the natives, which has fince
been found univerfal in the Pacific Ocean. Proceeding wcftward
b a
iv TRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
he difcovcrcfl, on the loth of the fame month, one of the iflands
which have fince been called the Philippines. They form the northern-
moft part of the grand archipelago which borders the coafl of Afia,
extending from 19 degrees north latitude and 122 degrees eafl lon-
gitude, fouth-wefi:ward to Malacca, and fouth-eaflward to New
Guinea, At a fmall ifland of this group Magalhanes finiflied his
courfe, being killed in an encounter with the natives on the 27th of
April. Some of his fliips afterward reached the Moluccas, the ob-
jcds of their purfuit ; which are fituated amidft more extenfive
iflands, in the ifl degree of north latitude, and in 127! degrees eaft
longitude. One fhip only of the fquadron, named the Vidory, with
a crew of no more than thirty perfons, under the command of Se-
baftian Cano, returned by the Eafl: Indies and the Cape of Good
Hope to Europe, having accomplifhed the firfl circumnavigation of
the world within a period of three years.
Having, by a fketch of this voyage, paid a tribute to the memory
of Magalhanes, who conducted an unequalled enterprife with the
utmofl fortitude and fkill, we can only notice fucceeding navigators
in connexion with the iflands to be defcribed. In pointing out the
fituations of thcfe, their latitude mufl: be underfl:ood to be fouthward
from the equator, if not othcrwife exprefled; and their longitude
is reckoned cafliward and wefl:ward from the obfervatory at Green-
wich toward its anti-meridian.
The want of a proper guide for the pronunciation of names ufed
by the South-Sea iflanders, and the diverfity of modes in which they
have been fpclled by writers and compilers of voyages, have long
been fubjedls of complaint. The remedy has become difficult in
proportion to the extent of the evil. The variety of journals from
which cxtra6ts are given in the narrative of Captain Wilfon's voyage,
has frufl:rated, in a great meafure, the endeavours that were ufed to
adopt an uniform and diftind: orthography throughout the volume.
Whether the attempt made for that purpofe, in compiling the pre-
fent introductory difcourfe, is more fuccefsful, mufl be left to the
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. v
decifion of the reader. His attention is rcqucfted to the following
rules of pronunciation, in which the genius of the language that is
common to the places defcribed, and the eftabliflicd orthography of
thofe names which have become mofl familiar, have been reciprocally
confulted.
ift. When a fingle vowel forms or clofes a fyllablc,
a is founded as in father ;
e as in equal i
as in open ;
u . as in duty.
adly. When two vowels come together,
ae has the fame found with the adverb ay ;
ai is founded as in fail ;
au as in autumn ;
ei has the found of / long ; for which this improper diphthong
has, from the firft, been fubftituted in names that are now
become too familiar to be altered, as in Otaheite, Ehneo,
Huaheine, Sec.
00 is founded as in the adverb too, for a fimilar reafon ;
ou as in our ', and
oe has the fame found with oy in Englifli words, 2,% joy. Sec.
All other combinations of vowels are to be pronounced, according
to the preceding rules, in diftind: fyllables.
3dly. When any fingle vowel is followed, in the fame fyllable,
by a confonant, it has its fhortefl found ; as in matter, gift,
otter, upward.
4thly. Every confonant, fingle vowel, or diphthong, uniformly re-
tains a diftind: and appropriate found, fubjcdl to the pre-
ceding rules. The letters w and y are therefore ufcd only as
confonants -, g is always hard ; and th is always founded as in
think. The e is never mute. Thus Otaheite is to be pro-
nounced fo as to rhyme with the adjedive mighty.
VI
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
5thly. That fyllable on which the ftrongeft cmphafis is to be
placed is marked as a long fyllable (fo Tongataboo, Oh'ittahoo)
when the words firft occur; but this diftindion, agreeably to
Rule 4th, indicates no otlicr change in the Ibund of the vowels
over which it is placed.
It appears neceflary farther to remark, that, as the diflcrtations
which form the Appendix of this volume, contain a copious defcrip-
tion of the natural and civil ftate of Otaheite, nothing relative to that
ifland is requifitc here, but a hiftory of tranfadlions that occurred
previous to the voyage of the Duff. A prior perufiU of the diflerta-
tions will therefore be ufeful to thofe of our readers who defire to
have in view the circumftances and cftabliflaed cuftoms of the
natives, while they purfue the hiftory. It may alfo affift to under-
hand the brief defcriptions here given of the other iflands, in which,
to avoid tautology, the points wherein they vary from Otaheite are
principally infifted on. The concifenefs that was indifpenfable, pre-
cluded obfervations which naturally refult from the various fadls that
are mentioned in the following account j but we hope that this
deficiency will be fupplied by the reflexions of our ferious readers.
From a comparifon between the feveral parts of this volume, it will
probably be acknowledged, in general, that additional demonfl:ration
is afforded to fome very important truths : fuch are — the infufficiency
of every natural enjoyment to eftablifli the real welfare of mankind ;
the tendency of an unreftrained gratification of appetites and paffions
to produce horrid and deftrudtive crimes ; the advantages for which
the moft civilized nations are in reality indebted to the gofpel; and
the far greater bleflings that are derived from the fame fource by
them who enter into the fpirit and power of chriftianity.
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. tu
Hijlorical Account of Otaheite.
FREQUENT as the intcrcourfe of Europeans with the natives of
this ifland has been for the laft thirty years, it is uncertain whether
any interview between them had occurred at an earlier period. While
the identity of various iilands vifited by modern navigators, with the
early difcoveries of the Spaniards, has been indubitably proved, it is
barely probable that Otaheite was feen by Pedro Fernandez de Quiros
in 1606. He had failed with two fliips from Lima in Peru, to fearch
for a continent, which he fuppofed to exift in the neighbourhood of
feveral iflands that had been difcovered by him in a voyage performed
eleven years before. For this purpofe he proceeded fouthward to the
27th degree of latitude; but meeting only with a few Inv iflands, he
returned into the latitude of his former difcoveries, and on his way
fell in with an ifland, iith February, which, on account of the
curve defcribed by its fliores, he named Sagittaria. His fmaller
vefTel anchored in a bay on the fouth coafl: ; but the boats were pre-
vented landing by the furf which beat upon the reefs. A young
man, named Francifco Ponce, fwam with much hazard to a rock>
where the iflanders met and carcfTed him j others of the Spaniards,
imitating the fpirited example of Ponce, were equally well received.
When they fwam back to the boats, they were accompanied by feveral
of the natives, who, after having fome prefents made to them, returned,
well pleafed, to their comrades on fliore. The next day the Spaniards,
having hauled their boats over the reef, landed, without feeing any of
the inhabitants ; they proceeded through a thick wood (in which
they found a morae, and ere<fted a crucifix) toward a bay upon the
oppofite fide of the ifland. They could obtain no fivlh water in a
plain which they fearched for it; but refreflied themfclves with the
milk of cocoa-nuts, which grew there abundantly. Loaded with
this fruit, they returned to the landing-place, in water up to their
viii PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
knees, along the meadow, over which the tide had flowed; they
re-cnibarkcd however without difficulty, a paflage through the reef
having been found for the boats; and a very aged woman, whom
they had met in the woods, willingly accompanied them to the fliips,
where flie was clothed and fed. When fhe was fent back to ihore,
flac diredied the Spaniards to fome of her countrymen, who were oc-
cupied with their canoes. The iflanders behaved amicably ; and fome
of them, with their chief, ventured to go off with feveral Spaniards in
the boat; but being fuddenly alarmed, they leaped into the fca, except
the chief, who was detained by force till they reached Quiros's fliip.
They could not pcrfuade him to go on board ; and therefore, having
made him fome prefents, fent back the boat with him. The few"
Spaniards who remained on fhore had been furrounded, and
threatened, by more than a hundred of the natives, armed with
fpcars and clubs. Upon the fafe return of the chief, a perfedt recon-
ciliation took place; and they parted very amicably, . the natives pro-
ceeding toward a fmall iflet. They are defcribed as of a mulatto
colour, well made, and deftitute of clothing, except the women,
who were covered from the waift downward with cloth made of bark.
Quiros coafted this ifland to the north-weft the following day, and
^at noon obferved the latitude to be 1 7° 40'. This coincides with the
weftern fide of Otaheite ; but the filencu of Quiros refpedling the
ifland of Eimeo, which would have been in fight from thence,
is perfedily vmaccountable, and involves the identity of Otaheite with
the Sagittaria of Quiros in much doubt. On the other hand, the
place where the Spaniards landed, agrees very well with the ifthmus
by which the two peninfulas of Otaheite are conneded. The preceding
account will enable our readers to form their own fentiments upon a
fubjedl of which different judgments have been adopted by refpedlable
geographers.
Captain Walhs, in his Majefty's fhip Dolphin, difcovered Otaheite
on the 19th of June 1767. The veffel being clofe to the fouth-eaft
end of the ifland, was furrounded by a great number of canoes, with
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. ix
more than eight hundred people on board: they, in general, behaved
amicably, excepting that they ftole every thuig they could ftizc.
Thefe pradlices brought on a flight fkirmifh, but peace was foon ap-
parently eftablifhed. Captain Wallis fucceeded in getting to wind-
ward of the ifland during the night, and the next day failed along the
eaftern coafl. On the following he anchored near the north-eaftern
flaore ; and his boats being employed in founding, were attacked by
the iflanders, one of whom was killed, and another wounded in the
conteft. Traffic was notwithftanding fpeedily reflorcd. The native
women ufed the mofl fhamelefs enticements to induce the failors
to land, but they had the precaution not to quit their boats ; and fome
fmall cafks, which they entrufted to the iflanders to procure frcfli
water, were ftolen by them.
Captain Wallis having weighed anchor on the 23d, difcovered the
bay which is formed by the coafl: of Mattavae, the northernmoft diftridl
of the ifland. Having doubled its north-eafl:ern cape, flnce called
Point Venus, the Dolphin flruck upon a coral rock which is detached
from the reef that borders the coafl:. The fhip remained immoveable
almoft an hour, and was then unexped:cdly relieved by a breeze which
fprung up from the fhore. The natives, in many hundred canoes,
waited around to fee the event, which was likely to have been
attended with the entire deftrudlion of the crew. They anchored,
however, foon afterward in the bay, and the vcflTel was found
to have received little damage. The following day, while ^v^arping
nearer to the fhore, they were attacked by a multitude of large
canoes, and fliowers of heavy ftones were poured in every diredtion
upon the fliip. The iflanders renewed the aflkult, even when they
had been repulfed by the great gunsj but after repeated experience of
their defl:rudive eflPeds, they difperfed, and fled to the mountains.
The fhip having been moored abreafl of the river of Mattavae,
Lieutenant Furneaux landed, and without oppofition eredted a
Britifla pendant on the fhore, and formally took pofl^eflion of the ifland
in the name of his own fovereign. This is a ceremony which has
c
X PRELIMINARY DISCQURSE.
Ixrn continued from the period when it was i'uppofed that the pope
had a right to difpofc of all countries inhahitcii by heathens. What-
ever idea the iflanders formed of this tranfadion, they did not fuffer
the flao- to remain till the following day. Oammo, who at that time
governed the larger peninfula of Otaheite in behalf of his fon
Temarrc, caufcd it to be taken away during the night; and it was
ufed long after as a kind of drefs which conftitutcs the badge of
rovaltv. The next morning a party of failors were compelled by the
natives to retire from the river, to which they had been fent for frefh
water; but the crowd being difperfed by the Ihip's guns, and many of
their canoes being demolilhed by way of puniihmcnt, they gave up
their attempts at refiftance, and from that time became peaceable and
docile. Oammo retired from the fcene, probably left the Englifli
fhould revenge upon his perfon the aflaults they had fuftained. His
confort Oberca (or Poorea) had been feparated from him after the birth
of Temarrc, apparently on account of her reludance to deftroy the
child. Her authority was not diminiflaed by their feparation, and
Ihe exercifed it in affording the moft hofpitable reception to Captain
Wallis and his people, many of whom were much reduced by illnefs.
Thefewere ftationed on fliore, and a regular traffic was eftablifhed for
frefh provifions. It was, however, foon interrupted, and great in-
convenience produced, by the licentious intercourfe of the crew with
the female iflanders. This was unlikely to be checked by Oberea,
whofe tf haradter for fenfuality exceeded even the ufual flandard
at Otaheite. At this time fhe cohabited with Toopaea, who had
fled from his native place, Ulietea, and had been appointed chief
pricft at. this ifland. He ^celled all the South-Sea iflanders that have
been known, for information and fagacity; and difl:inguiflied himfelf
very early by his inquifltive difpofition, and his aptnefs to imitate the
manners of the Englifh. An elderly man, of inferior rank, named
Owhau, likewife rendered himfelf remarkable and ufeful, by his
friendly attention to the navigators, and the prudence with which he
negotiated between them and his countrymen. Under his guidance
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xi
Mr. Gore made fome progrefs into the interior of the iiUml; and
\vhen provifions beciime fcarce at Mattavae, Owhfiu procured them
from other dillrid:s. Ample fupphes having been obtained, and the
health of the fliip's company being re-eftabliflicd. Captain Wallis
failed on the 27th of July. He requited the hofpitality of Oberca
with a variety of prefents ; among which were turkics, a gander and
goofe, and a cat; with many iron utenfils, which the natives were
eager to obtain, having learned the ufe of them from a neighbouring
low ifland, named Tappoohoe, where a Dutch iliip, belonging to
Roggevvein's fquadron, had been wrecked forty-five years before.
Early in April 1768, Otaheite was again vifited by Europeans.
M. de Bougainville, in the Boudeufe frigate, accompanied by a ftore-
fhip, coafted this ifland to the eaftward, as Wallis had done; but
was deterred from doubling Point Venus, by the appearance of the reef
which enclofes it. A timid caution, which moft of the French navi-
gators have betrayed when at fea, cxpofed M. de Bougainville to the in-
convenience of anchoring within a reef on the windward fide of the
ifland. He was amicably received by Orette, chief of Hedea, the
diftrid where the fliips w ere moored. This perfon's brother, Outooroo,
attached himfelf to the commander immediately upon his arrival, and
afterward accompanied him to France. The father of thefe young
men, Owahou, and fome other principal people of the diftrid,
objeded, however, to the fick perfons being landed from the fhips,
till an affurance was given that they would not remain many days.
M. de Bougainville was foon vifited by Tootaha, youngeft brother
of Oammo, who prefided over the wefi:ernmofl diflrids of the ifland.
He was accompanied by feveral others of the royal family, whofe
fuperior flature difliinguiflied them from the reft of the company. It
does not appear that Oammo, or Oberea, whofe ufual rcfidence was
at the fouthernmoft part of the larger peninfula, vifited Hedea during
the flay of the French, which lafted only eight days. It was appa-
rently rendered the more pacific, in confequence of the experience the
iflanders had derived from Captain Wallis 's vifit, whom they fup-
c 2
jji PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
pofcd to have come from the fame country as M. de Bougainville.
They fupphcd abundance of provifions, and willingly aflifted the
working parties from the fhips, but availed themfelves of every op-
portunity to pilfer. Senfuality fcems to have been pradrifed with ftiU
greater indecency than before, and feveral murders were privately
committed by the French failors, notwithftanding the hofpitality
with which they were entertained. A woman who had failed from
France with the crew, difguifcd in man's apparel, was deteded by
the natives upon her landing. Accuflomed to fee the fexes clothed
alike, they immediately perceived the difference of her fhape; but
they conceived mean ideas of European beauty from her countenance.
The French veffcls failed 14th April, after the lofs of feveral an-
chors, their cables having been cut afunder by the coral rock. Within
a few weeks afterwards M. de Bougainville found that feveral people
on board, and Outooroo himfelf, were infeded with the venereal
difeafe. Captain Wallis feems to have been peculiarly attentive to
the {late of his fliip's company, and politively afferts that they
were entirely free from every fymptom of this diforder fix months
before, and ftill longer after their vifit at Otaheite. The accounts
of the iflanders refpedting their previous knowledge of the complaint
are confufed and contradidlory. The prefent exiftence, and the general
prevalence of the evil, is but too obvious ; and it concurs with other
dreadful effeds of fenfuality, to threaten the entire depopulation of
this bea'itiful ifland, if it be not feafonably averted by the happy
influence of the gofpel.
Subfequent to M. de Bougainville's departure, a revolution occurred in
the government of Otaheite, the effedts of which proved to be perma-
nent and important. The whole ifland at that time acknowledged the
fovercignty of Temarre. The fmaller peninfula, called Teiarraboo,
was governed by an elderly man named Waheadooa, diftantly related
to the king. The larger peninfula has ufually been difl:ributed into
three principal governments, each of which included feveral fubor-
dinate diftrids : they were then fubjed: to three brothers, Oammo,
I
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xili
Tootaha, and Happac ; the latter prefiding over the nortliern and
eaftern dillrids, which are colledively named Tcpirrconoo. Tootaha,
who poffelTed confiderable talents, and was aduated by a reftlefs am-
bition, confpired with Waheadooa to wreft: the government of the
ifland from Oammo and Oberca ; and to transfer the royal dignity
from their Ion to Otoo, the fon of Happae, during whole minority
the condud of pubhc affairs was to be committed to Tootaha. This
plot could not elude the penetration of Toopaea ; and he ufed all his
intereft with Oberea to fruftrate it in time, by putting Tootaha to
death. He did not, however, prevail with her to confent to fo violent
a meafure; and when he found the explofion ready to burft, he fled
to the interior mountains for his perfonal fafety. Waheadooa, ftimu-
lated by the defire of becoming wholly independent of the larger
peninfula, paffed the iflhmus with his army, and defeated that which
Oammo had collefled to oppofe him. Tootaha, at the fame time,
with the forces of Attahooroo and Tettaha, attacked from the weft-
ward the diftridt of Pappara, Oammo's refidence ; and carried off,
from the great morae at that place to another in Attahooroo, the
peculiar enfigns of the regal and facerdotal offices. The grand cere-
monies which are attended with human facrifices, were therefore per-
formed at the morae of Attahooroo for thirteen years after that event.
This diftridl being one of the largeft and moft fertile in the ifland, and
conftantly gaining ftrength by affording protedlion to fugitives fro:n
other quarters, was too povvei-ful to be fpeedily difpoffeffed of its
acquifitions. Tootaha had eftablillied himfelf in the regency, and
refided at Oparre, the hereditary diftrid: of the new fovereign Otoo,
when Lieutenant Cook, in the Endeavour, anchored in the adjacent
bay of Mattavae, 12th April 1769. His objeds were to obfove the
approaching tranfit of the planet Venus over the diflc of the fun, and
to renew the fearch which Quiros had fet on foot in the laft century, for
a continent fuppofed to exifr in the fouthcrn part of the Pacific Ocean.
The Endeavour was immediately vifited by crowds of- the natives,
among whom Owhau was recognifcd by Mr. Gore and others who had
XIV
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
railed with Wall!?. His afTiftance was again found ufeful in the traffic
which commenced, under proper regulations, with his countrymen ;
and in appcafing their refentment, when it was excited by the death
of one of them, too haftily inflidled in confcquence of their thefts. A
Imall fort was eredcd near the northernmoll: point of the illand,
which now received the name of Point Venus, on account of the
obfcrvations that were naade upon that planet the 3d of June. At the
fame time a party was fent to the neighbouring ifland of Eimeo, to
obfcrvc the tranfit from thence. Lieutenant Cook afterwards made a
furvey of Otahcite, in which he was accompanied by Mr. (now Sir
Jt)feph) Banks, who had failed in the Endeavour with a view to
the advancement of natural hiftory. They met with Waheadooa and
his fon, then about thirteen years of age, at Teiarraboo, and found
that pcninfula in a flouriihing condition. Its inhabitants boafted of
their military prowcfs and fuccefs j of which they pofTefTed many
trophies, and among others, the turkey-cock and the goofe which
Captain Wallis had given to Oberea. The Englifli were every
where hofpitably treated, excepting the depredations which they
fufFered from the thievifli genius of the natives. The fame lewdnefs
was perpetrated as on former occafions ; and, to avoid loathfome
repetitions, we fhall generally omit to mention it in future. Thefe
pradlices at times interrupted the harmony which ufually fubfifted
between the navigators and the iflanders ; but it was almofl wholly
dcftroyed previous to their feparation. Two marines having deferted
from the fliip, Cook ventured to confine Tootaha and feveral other
principal perfcns till the deferters {hould be brought back. The natives
by way of retaliation feized upon fome Englifhmen ; but being ordered
by Tootaha to furrender them and the deferters to the commander, he
in return relcafed his royal captives, and their friendfhip was appa-
rently renewed. Among the principal acquaintance formed by the
Englifli in this voyage, befide thofe already mentioned, were Potatto,
a chief of Attahooroo, and Tooboorae Tamaede of Mattavae ; both of
whom were deteded in thefts, although among the moft refpediable
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
XV
perfons in the ifland. Toopiiea, having loft his influence by the
revolution, and being defertcd by Oberea for a younger gallant, left
Otaheite in the Endeavour, 12th July, and died at Batavia, on the
paflage of the fliip to Europe.
Tootaha had obtained a great quantity of curious and ufcful articlcs'
from his European guefts, and he availed himfelf of thefe acquifitions
to increafe his influence over the chiefs of the larger pcninlula. He
fucceeded in perfuading them to unite their forces againft Teiarraboo,
which he \yiflied to reduce to its former ftate of fubjedion. Waheadooa,
who fought only to enjoy peaceably the independence he had eftablilhcd,
pleaded the fervices he had rendered to Tootaha, as an argument to divert
him from his hoftile defigns, which Waheadooa had learned, and was
prepared to refift. The military pride and ambition of the regent
urged him to perfift in his attempt j and, having equipped a fleet of
war canoes, he failed toward the fmaller peninfula, and engaged the
naval force of Waheadooa, with nearly equal lofs on each fiile.
Tootaha retired, with a determination to try his fucccfs by land. His
brother Happae difapproved of this rneafure, and remained at Oparre;
but Tootaha obliged Otoo, who always difliked fighting, to accom-
pany the army. It engaged that of Waheadooa at the ifthmus, and
was totally routed : Tootaha and Tooboorae Tamaede were killed on
the fpot ; Orette and many others feverely wounded ; and Otoo
efcaped, with a few of his friends, to the fummits of the mountains,
where his father and family had taken refuge upon being informed of
the defeat. Waheadooa marched diredlly to Mattavae and Oparrc,
laying wafte all the country, as is ufual in their wars j but he fent rea-
fonable propofals of peace to Happae and Otoo, who readily accepted
them. The latter, having then arrived at maturity, affiimed the ad-
miniftration of the government, with the affiftance of his father's
advice. He had two lifters, one of whom remained unmarried, and
being older than he, might have put in a prior claim to the fove-
reigrity, but {he waved her right in his favour. Of three brothers,
the cideft was ten years younger than Otoo ; he was then a very
XVI
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
adivc and intelligent boy, and has fince become well known under
the name of Orapeia : the next brother, Weidooa, was fix years
younger than he : theyoungeft, Teppahoo, then an infant, has ever
fincc remained in obfcurity, on account of his deficiency of intelled:.
Waheadooa did not long furvive his triumphs ; and his name and
government devolved without oppofition upon his fon. A Spanifli
vcfll-1, faid to have been commanded by Don Juan de Langara, vifited
Teiarraboo about March 1 773. She remained ten days at anchor in a
harbour formed by reefs, at the fouth-eaft end of the ifland, and
called by the natives Owhae-oorooa. Four of the Ihip's company
were publicly executed there ; and a fifth efcaped the fame fate by
flight. He was the fir/l European who became a refident at Otaheite,
and was kindly treated by the natives, to whofe manners he entirely
conformed. Young Waheadooa made him one of his principal com-
panions and counfellors.
Captain Cook vifited this ifland the following Auguft, in the
Refolution, accompanied by Captain Furneaux in the Adventure.
Thefe veflels were in much danger near the place where the Spaniards
had anchored, the Refolution flriking repeatedly on the adjacent reef.
On the 1 7th of Auguft they anchored in a bay on the northern coaft of
Teiarraboo, called Oweitapeha, The Englifh were difappointed of ob-
taining provifions, as was faid, by the influence of the young chief's
Spanifh advifer, who carefully avoided intercourfe with them. They
gained intelligence from an iflander named Tooahou, who had attended
Cook in part of his furvey during the former vifit. The map of
Otaheite, which had then been engraved, being fhewn to this man,
he readily comprehended it, and pointed out by name the diftrid:s
that were marked upon it. It may be proper here to obferve, that
the number and the names of thefe divifions vary at different periods ;
a diftrid: being fometimes fubdivided into feveral by the chiefs, in
erdcr to diflribute the land among their friends.
Waheadooa did not vifit his acquaintance, Captain Cook, till the
23d, and the latter failed the following day from Oweitapeha ; but
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xvii
left behind Lieutenant Pickerfgill to purchafe hogs, which the natives
were permitted to bring when ahnoft too late. The young chief
difcovered fome ingenuity mingled with boyilh weaknefs, and prefided
at the market with great propriety. Mr, Pickerfgill proceeded from
thence in a boat to Hcdea, where he was kindly entertained by Ortttc,
and his brother Taroore. Neither of them made any inquiry after
Outooroo, although they fuppofed him to have gone with M. de
Bougainville to the fame country from whence Cook came. Toopaea
alfo feemed to be nearly forgotten; but Sir Jofeph Banks, and others
of the Englifh, who had been moft converfant with the iflanders,
were every where inquired after. The boat rejoined the fliips at
Hedea, and they proceeded to Mattavae, where they anchored 25th
Auguft.
Otoo, who was on the fhore furrounded by a multitude gazing at
the fhips, did not wait to receive the Engliih, but hurried in terror
over the hill which divides Mattavae from Oparre, where he refided.
Cook vifited him there the next day, and with difficulty prevailed
upon him to venture on board the fliips on the following. Thefc
diftridls had not recovered from the effects of the war with Teiarraboo,
and provifions were fcarce. Potatto in fome meafure fupplicd the
deficiency from Attahooroo. Otoo expreffed much regret at the
departure of the veffels, which occurred ift September.
Captain Cook revifited Mattavae 22d April 1774, having in the
mean time repeatedly entered the antardlic circle in the fruitlefs fearch
after a fouthern continent, which was the principal objed: of this
voyage. On his laft departure from Otaheite, he had been accom-
panied from the Society Iflands, by a young man of rank and fome
abilities, named Hete-hete. By his advice, red feathers had been
procured at the Friendly Iflands ; and they were found to be the moft
valuable article of trade at Otaheite. The northern diftrids had
alfo recovered their ufual profperity fince the former vifit of the
Refolution, and at this time fupplied abundantly the wants of the
navigators. They found much relief from bilious complaints by the
d
XVlll
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
life of the eve fruit, which, from its external appearance, has been
always culled an apple, although it has a ftone refembling that oi a
peach. During the ftay of Captain Cook, which was prolonged in
order to repair his Ihip, a fleet of large war canoes aflcmblcd in the
bay, for the purpofe of attacking the neighbouring ifland of Eimeo.
The chief of that country, Motoofiro, had married a fifler of Otoo,
and being expelled by his uncle Maheine, he had taken refuge with
his brother-in-law. The weftern diftrids having united with thofe of
Tcpirreonoo to maintain the caufe of Motooaro, Towha, who was
then chief of Tettaha, was appointed to the command of the com-
bined fleet. He pofllfled great courage and talents, was advanced in
years, and was highly refpcdled. His diflrid: furnifhed forty-four large
canoes toward the fleet; that of Attahooroo one hundred and fixty;
and Mattavae, probably in confequence of its late devaftation, only
ten. Teiarraboo alfo was expeded to fend a quota for this expedition ;
yet both Otoo and Towha, although jealous of each other, entreated
Cook to aflift them in attacking that peninfula. The number of
fmall canoes employed to tranfport provifions, and defigned to bring
back the bodies of thofe who might be killed, equalled that of the
larger canoes employed in fighting. From the multitude of people
embarked in this fleet. Captain Cook computed that the whole ifland
might contain more than two hundred thoufand inhabitants. Sub-
fequent navigators have even exceeded this calculation; but it ap-
pears that at prefent there is not a tenth part of that number of people
in Otaheite. Unlimited fenfuality, with the general contamination,,
and infant murders, attendant upon it, have, without doubt, dreadfully
diminifhed the population. jj;[ yjji-,,.
Amidft the confuflon occafioned by fo great a concourfe of the
natives, fome daring thefts were committed; and the feverity w^iich
was confequently exercifed, alarmed the timidity of Otoo. One of
his elder relations, named Te, became ufeful as a meflenger and
mediator between the young king and his formidable guefl:s. Oammo
and Oberea vifited them from Pappara; and the latter, though greatlj
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xix
declined in dignity, and advancing in years, dilcovcred no abate-
ment of Icwdnefs. Tlic iflanders exhibited a inock fca-fight, and
the Englifh feme fireworks, for their mutual entertainment ; and
they parted very amicably on the 14th of May. Hete-hete, who
had connefted himfelf vt'ith a family at Mattavae, took a paflagc in
the fliip to fee his friends at Ulietca. Of various animals which
had been left at Otaheite by the Refolution nine months before, the
only fpecies likely to multiply were goats and cats. The expedition
to Eimeo proved fuccefsful in reftoring Motooaro to a temporary
pofTeffion of the fovereignty of that ifland.
Teiarraboo was fliortly after revifited by the Spaniards, in two
fliips from Lima, which anchored in OwcitapCha bay. The com-
mander died there, and was buried on fliore, near a crofs which they
had erecfled, and infcribed with, " Cbrijlus W//(r//,"and " Carolus 3.
•' imperat. 1774." They alfo conftruaed, of materials which they
had brought for the purpofe from Peru, a wooden houfe, confiding
of two apartments, with loop-holes in the walls, which admitted air,
and might be ufed for defence with mufquetry. Two pricfts, with
an attendant upon each, remained at this habitation wiien the fliips
departed, and were peacefully and refped:fully treated by the natives ;
but it does not appear that they had much converfition with them.
One of their attendants, however, frequently travelled in the ifland,
and became familiar with the language of the inhabitants. He told
them many flanderous ftories of the Englifli, and afliired them that
his countrymen had fallen in with Cook's veffel and deftroyed it,
with the whole crew.
Four of the iflanders had failed in the Spanifh fhips to Lima, and
two of them died there. The furvivors were brought back by the
fame vefTels ten months afterward, and the priefl:s and their attendants
were taken away. A bull and a ram, with fome goats, dogs, and
Spanifla fwine, were landed ; and the houfe and crofs were left ftand-
ing, and carefully preferved by the natives. Thofe who had vifitcd
Pgru returned wholly to their former courfe of life : one of them
d 3
XX
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
retained fome common Spanifh phrafcs ; the other had the appearance
of being deranged in mind.
Captain Cook once more revifited Otaheite in the Refokition, ac-
companied by Captain Clcrke in the Difcovery, on their way to
the north- well coaft of America, in 1777. They anchored at Owei-
tapeha on the 1 3th of Auguft, and found Teiarraboo at that time
fiibjtdt to a boy twelve years old, brother to the former Waheadooa,
who had died almoft two years before.
When the Refokition and Adventure left Otaheite in 1773, a
native of the neighbouring ifland Huaheine, named Omae, had ac-
companied Captain Furneaux from the latter place, and proceeded to
England in the Adventure, after parting with the Refokition. He
returned from thence with Captain Cook on his third voyage. This
young man was not of the higher rank among his countrymen, nor
were his talents of a fuperior caft. In England great attention was
paid to him by fome of the nobility, but it was chiefly directed to his
amufement, and tended rather to augment than to diminifh his ha-
bitual profligacy. One friend of human kind, Mr. Granville Sharp,
took great pains to inflrudl him in reading and writing, and to im-
prefs his mind with ideas of morality and religion. Omae was
fufceptible of convidlion by familiar arguments on the latter fubjecSls,
and had made fuch progrefs by application to the former, that
he wrote from the Cape of Good Hope a letter to Dr. Solander (who
had accompanied Sir Jofeph Banks in 1769) in Otaheitean words
exprcfled by Englifli characters. Having vifited the Friendly Iflands
previoufly to his arrival at Otaheite, he had procured a garment richly
adorned with red and yellow feathers, which he defigned to prefent to
Otoo. This he delivered to young Waheadooa, requefl:ing him to .
tranfmit it to Otoo, in the hope of ingratiating himfelf at once with
both of the fovereigns in the ifland where he intended to fettle. The
prize was, however, top valuable to pafs through the hands of the
young chief, who deemed a very fmall part of the feathers fufficient
to be fent to the monarch of the larger peninfula.
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xxi
The fhips proceeded to Mattavae, and anchored there on the 24th
of Augufl: ; a friendly interview immediately took place with Otoo
and his family, which remained in the fame ftate as formerly.
Captain Cook delivered into his charge an Englilh bull, three cows,
a horfe, a mare, and fome Iheep, which had been conveyed from
England with very great trouble, in the hope of rendering cffential
fervice to thefe hofpitable iflanders. The Spanilh bull had been
tranfported from Teiarraboo to Mattavae on the way to Bolabola ; the
fovereign of that ifland having fent an emiifary, who pretended to
infpiration, to procure the bull from Waheadooa. Captain Cook
arriving in time to ftop its progrcfs, committed this animal alfo, which
was of a capital breed, to the cuftody of Otoo. Various domeftic
fowls were likewife left with him, and garden-feeds planted in fomc
ground cleared for the purpofe. Otoo had befides in his poffciTion
the gander that had been given ten years before by Captain Wallis to
Oberea. This lady had died fince the former vifits of the Refokition.
The body of Te, the king's uncle, and minifter of flate, who had
then been dead four months, was ftill preferved from putrefadtion.
Hete-hete had arrived at Mattavae but a fhort time before his Englilh
friends, to whom he fhewed an unabated attachment ; but he declined
the ufe of fome clothing which they had brought out as a prefent to
him. Omae having adled as imprudently in the difpofal of his
property at this place as at Teiarraboo, the defign of eftablilhing him
at Otaheite was relinquifhed.
Intelligence being received from Eimeo, that Maheine had again
revolted from Motooaro, and had obliged him to take refuge in the
mountains, Otoo earneftly entreated Captain Cook to take an adive
part in the quarrel, but he prudently declined to interfere. Human
facrifices were offered at Attahooroo to infure fuccefs to the expedition,
and Towha and Potatto again conducted the fleet belonging to their
diflridts to attack Maheine. They found him, however, fo well
prepared to receive them, that, after repeatedly applying to Otoo for
reinforcements, without procuring any, they concluded a peace on
4
XXII
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
terms which were advantageous to the revoltcrs. There had been a
great diverfity of fentimcnts among the chiefs on the fubjcd: of this
expedition, and the blame of its unfavourable iffuc was imputed by
fome to the haflinefs of Towha, and by others to Otoo's delay in
augmenting the fleet. The jealoufy which had always fubfifted
between thcfc great men was excited to fuch a degree, that Towha
vowed revenge againft Otoo, and was only prevented from executing
it by the menaces of Captain Cook. The latter quitted Mattavae on
the 29th of September 1777, and for the firft time vifited Eimeo.
Some thefts which the natives of that ifland committed, were punifhed
by him with unprecedented feverity. He returned no more, being
killed at the Sandwich Ulands on the i6th of February 1779.
Previous to that event Otoo efpoufed Iddea, the elder iifter of
Motooaro, with whom he thus became doubly connedted by mar-
riage. The firft child fine bore to him was immediately fuftocated,
that they might preferve their rank in the arreoe fociety ; but a
fecond being born was preferved, and in confequence the title and
fovereign dignity of Otoo immediately devolved upon his infant
fon. The father retained his former power as regent, and in the
condudl of it he was greatly affifted by his intelligent and adlive
confort. He has fince been called by various names fucceffively ; but,
to avoid confufion, we fliall only ufe that of Pomarre, by which he
has been known during the laft fix years.
Towha feems to have fupprefled his refentment till the ufual length
of time between Captain Cook's vifits at Otaheite had elapfed ; he
then united the forces of Tettaha and Attahooroo with Maheine
againft thofe of Oparre and the eaftern diftrids. The conteft was
frequently renewed, and ufually terminated to the advantage of Towha.
Pomarrc's U'ar canoes being nearly deftroyed, his adverfaries purfued
their fuccefs by land, and laid wafte Oparre and Mattavae. They
at length fufFered a fevere check by the death of Maheine, who was
killed in battle by the hand of Weidooa, Pomarre's younger brother.
This cataftrophe appears to have prevented the renewal of hoftilities
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xxiii
at Otaheite ; but the party of Motooaro was not powerful enough
to eftablifh him as the fucccffor of Maheinc, whofc adopted fon,
Tareamoodoa, obtained at his death the fovereignty of Eimco. During
thefe incurfions mofl: of the cattle that had been left at Oparrc, and
had increafed there, were destroyed ; the reft, confifting of Icveral
cows and a difablcd bull, were carried in triumph to Eimco, and pre-
ferved there.
Eleven years had nearly paffed without any intercourfe between
Europe and Otaheite ; every inftrument of iron had been expended ;
and the loathfome difeafe, which, if not derived from Europeans, had
certainly been increafed by their licentious condud, had made dread-
ful havock among the iflanders of both fexes. At that late period
an Englifla velTel arrived at Otaheite, feemingly with as little of
deiign on the one part, as of expediation on the other. A fliip
called the Lady Penrhyn, on board of which was Lieutenant Walts,
who had failed with Cook, was employed in tranfporting convid:s
to Port Jackfon, at the firft formation of the fcttlemcnt in New
South Wales. Being bound from thence to China for a cargo home-
ward, file took a courfe far to the eaftward ; and as the crew was
extremely reduced by fclirvy, it was determined to ftop at Otalieite
for refrefliments. Upon anchoring at Mattavae on the loth of July
1788, Lieutenant Watts was immediately recognifed by Moanna,
an elderly chief of that diftrid. Pomarre, who no longer refidcd
in that neighbourhood, arrived four days afterward, probably from
Teiarraboo, bringing with him a portrait of Captain Cook, which
Mr. Webber had painted at his requeft during the laft voyage.
Veracity having been thought necdlefs by Europeans in their tranf-
adlions with the iflanders, it was judged proper at that time to
conceal the death of Captain Cook, and to make prcfcnts in his
name to Pomarre. This idle deception proved afterward highly
detrimental.
Iron utenfils were fought by the iflanders with the utmoft avidity;
while feme red feathers, which had been brought from Port Jackfon^
xxiv PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
bore no price with them. The ring of an anchor, which M. de
Bougainville had loll ten years before at Hcdea, was produced by
Pomarrc, who rcqucfted to have it forged into fmall adzes. Tlie ut-
moft abundance of animal and vegetable food was fupplied in ex-
change for European articles ; and befides the original produdions of
the ifland, pumpkins and capficums, cats and goats, were offered
for fale. It was obfervcd, that the women of the higher clafs were
more cautious than formerly of promifcuous intercourfe, probably
in confequence of what they had fuffered from difeafe. Pomarre
was importunate with Mr. Watts to affifl: him in punifhing and
fubduing the people of Eimeo. He complained greatly of the long
abfence of the Englifh, and of the fhortnefs of their prefent ftay,
which was only for a fortnight. Hete-hete, who was at Mattavae,
begged to be taken to Ulietea ; but Pomarre being unwilling to part
with him, he was obliged to remain.
An event approached which ilTued in an important change of the
condition of Otaheite. The information which had been received
by the former voyages of the great utility of the bread-fruit, in-
duced the merchants and planters of the Britifli Weft Indian iflands
to requeft that means might be ufed to tranfplant it thither. For this
benevolent purpofe a fhip was commiilioned by his Majefty, which
was named the Bounty ; and Lieutenant Bligh, who had failed as
mafter with Captain Cook, was appointed to condudl her to Otaheite,
where the plants might be moft eafily and abundantly procured.
He arrived at Mattavae on the 26th of Odober 1788, hardly more
than three months after Lieutenant Watts 's departure. Happae and
Orapeia were found there, and the latter was peculiarly anxious to
prevent his countrymen from pradlifing their ufual thefts. The
frame of Captain Cook's pidture, which had fuffered fome damage
by its removals, was brought to be mended ; and on the 28th Po-
marre arrived with Iddea from a diftridl of Teiarraboo, where he had
taken up his refidence. Weidooa, who had gained great credit by
his prowefs in battle, but was exceflively addided to the intoxicating
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xxt
liquor of the ava root, and a chief of Mattavac, named Pocno,
were generally of the vifiting parties. A garden was planted near
the houfes belonging to the latter and to Moanna. Potatto and
Orette, and his kinfmen, renewed their fricndlliip with the Englifli.
The young fovereign, who was about fix years old, was only to be
accofted from the oppofite fide of a river at Oparre. The Englifli
were required to make their fhouldcrs bare when in his prefencc ;
but they compromifed this ceremony by uncovering their heads. He
was accompanied by a younger brother and a lifter, befidc whom
Iddea had alfo a female infant by Pomarrc ; yet flic cohabited
openly at that time with one of his fcrvants, and has done lo ever
fince. Teppahdo, an uncle of Pomarre, had deftroyed eight chil-
dren, in order to preferve his rank as an arreoe. He refided at Tet-
taha as chief of that diftridt, Towha being dead. The wife of the
latter, Wanno-oora furvived him, and was much refpeded.
Lieutenant Bligh having made very handfome prefents from the
king of Great-Britain to Pomarre, informed him that the mofl: ac-
ceptable return would be a large quantity of the young bread-fruit
plants, and that he would oblige him by carrying them in his
cabin for King George ; which was immediately confcnted to. Po-
marre expreffed little concern about the lofs of the cattle, but much
dcfire to be revenged upon the people of Eimeo ; and he was gra-
tified with two mufkets, a pair of piftols, and a confiderable flock
of ammunition. He had not fufficient fortitude to ufe thefe articles
himfelf; but Hete-hete, who remained with him, was a good
markfman; and although it is not cuftomary for the females of
Otaheite to go to battle, Iddea, whofe perfonal flrength and courage
were unufually great, had learned to ufe a mufket with fome dexterity.
Oberreroa, the mother of Pomarre, came from the fmall iflands
of Tethuroa, and vifited the Bounty with difficulty, being old and
. corpulent. She feems to have been a native of Ulietea, from whence
fome of her relations, who were chiefs in that ifland, came to Mat-
tavae at this time. One of them brought an ewe, which Captaia
e
3txTi PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
Cook had left at Ulietea, and which was then ahiiofl deflroyed by
the man'^-e. Another, who was at that time called Tootaha, feems
to be the fame perfon fince known by the name of Manne-manne,
the brother of Obcrreroa, and heir apparent to the fovereignty of
Ulietea and Otaha, but by office a prieft. Bcfide the Iheep, which
lliortly died, a bull was procured from Hedea, and a cow from Tet-
taha; and both were committed to the charge of Pomarre, from whom
the former had been obtained by a perfon pretending to be infpired.
On Chriftmas-day the Bounty was removed to a reef harbour on the
coaft of Oparre, the bay of Mattavae having become dangerous through
the variable and violent winds which are common at that feafon.
Nearly eight huildred pots of bread-fruit plants were then taken on
board, and upwards of one thoufand plants were afterward added,
together with fomc of the eve, eheya, ratta, oraya, tou, and matte trees;
and the te, yappe, and pea roots. The length of time employed in
colled:ing thefe, was attended with the defertion of feveral among the
feamen, who were purfued to Tethuroa by Orapeia, and at length were
feized atTettaha. The fhip's cable was cut nearly through, evidently
with the defign of letting the fhip drive on fhore in tempefluous weather.
This is faid to have been done by Weidooa, on account of an officer
to whom he was attached, and who had been put in confinement on
board. The thefts of the inhabitants likewife increafed with the delay,
but the chiefs exerted themfelves to bring them to punifhment. Some
maize had been planted fince the arrival of the Bounty, which
ripened before fhe faliled. Captain Cook's pidlure, which had, by
Pomarre's requeft, been kept on board the fliip, was then delivered
again to him, with the date of the fhip's arrival and departure re-
corded upon the back of the pidlure, which has ever fince been
pracStifed by commanders of Englifh men of war. The Bounty-
was unmoored the 4th of April 1789, having remained at Otaheite
more than five months.
The fituation of Pomarre was evidently at that time neither comfort-
able nor fecure. He earneftly defired Captain Bligh to take himfelf
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xxvii
and Iddca to Britain. Hete-hete equally wilhcd to go in the
fliip. A coolnefs then fubfiftcd between Pomarrc and Orapcia,
which was fuppofed to have arifcn from a difagrcement of their
wives. Shortly after the departure of the lliip a revolution took
place at Eimeo, by which Motooaro's authority was cftabliihcd.
Tareamoodoa took refuge in Attahooroo, and was afterward enter-
tained by Temarre at Pappara, where he remained in a private ftation.
The Bounty returned to Mattavac on the 6th of June, having in
the mean time been feizcd by twenty-five of the crew, who had
mutinied, and turned adrift Lieutenant Bligh, and eighteen officers and
feamen, in the launch belonging to the fliip. Fletcher Chriftian, the
mailer's mate, a young man of refpedable connexions and good
talents, was chofen to command the mutineers. He had pcrfuadcd
them to go to Toob5uae, a fmall illand ninety leagues to the
fouthward of Otahcite; preferring it to the latter, as being Icfs
cxpofed to vifits from Europeans. Having found Toobouae defti-
tute of animal provifions, he brought the fliip again to Otalicitc,
to procure fome ftock for the fettlemcnt which he intended to make.
He availed himfelf, for this purpofe, of the fidion which had
been hitherto fupported refpeding Captain Cook ; affcrting that they
had met with him, and that he had fent the fliip back for all the
live ftock that could be fpared, in order to form a fettlcment
at a place which Captain Bligh had difcovered in his courfe to-
ward the Friendly Iflands. The inhabitants gave credit to his
ftory and vied with each other who fliould furnifli moft for the
fervice of Captain Cook ; fo that by the i6th of June, four hundred
and fixty hogs, fifty goats, and great quantities of fowls, dogs, and
cats were coUedled. The bull and cow, which had been committed
to the charcre of Pomarre by Captain Bligh, were alfo taken away;
but the former died on the paffage. from the falls he received. Eleven
female Otaheiteans Hiiled with the mutineers; and it was foon found
that thirteen male natives, among whom was Hete-hete, had con-
cealed themfelves in the fliip. When informed of the real deftinatioii
e 2
,xTiii PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
of the vcflel, and of the great improbability there was that they would
ever return to their own country, they difcovered no diffatisfadion ;
but adhered cheerfully and f^iithfully to the mutineers during their
fruitlefs attempts to eftablifh themfelves at Toobouae.
Subfcquent to the fecond departure of the Bounty from Otaheite,
a Swedifli armed veflel, commanded by J. H. Cox, arrived there.
Captain Cox was received by Pomarre and Iddea with their ufual
hofpitalityj and in return made them prefents, among which were
fome more fire-arms and ammunition, a hand-faw, and an union
jack. The latter became a fubftitute for Captain Wallis's pendant,
as the enfign of royalty. A flarewd and adive fellow, named Brown,
a native of England or North America, was left by Captain Cox
upon the ifland, in confequence of a quarrel between him and his
fhipmates, in which he had maimed one of them. This man at-
tached himfelf to Pomarre, with whom he went to refide at a diftridl
of Teiarraboo, where the latter had fome private property. He had
taken up his abode there, apparently with a view to increafe his po-
litical influence, in hope that the fmaller peninfula might at length
be brought under the dominion of his fon.
A majority of the mutineers having determined, contrary to
Fletcher Chriftian's inclination, upon returning from Toobouae to
Otaheite, the Bounty was anchored a third time at Mattavae, on the
22d of September 1789. Sixteen of the fhip's company then landed,
with their proportion of the property and arms that were on board.
The reft failed fuddenly in the night with Chriftian, and have
never fince been heard of. Thirty-five of the iflanders, including men,
women, and children, accompanied them. His profeffed defign was
to fettle in fome uninhabited ifland, out of the ufual tracks of European
fhips. Among the people who remained at Otaheite, were feveral
who had not been active in the mutiny j and fome who had wifhed to
accompany Captain Bligh in the boat, but were detained by the reft,
as they could not conveniently be fpared. They were hofpitably
received by their old friends at Mattavae and Oparre, and lands were
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xxix
afTio-ned for their ufe in thefc diftrids, which they preferred to others
where they were lefs acquainted.
The more ingenious and induflrious among them employed
themfelves in the conftruiHiion of a fchooner, about the fizc of
the pafTage-boats between London and Gravefend. It was difficult
to find, and to convey from the mountains, timber fuited to their
purpofe ; and ftill more fo, to fubftitute fuch articles as were to be
obtained in the country, for the neccffary iron-work, pitch, and
rigging. The natives, although they pilfered other things, never
ftole their tools, but affifted them occafionally in the laborious parts
of their work; and were lefs furprifed at their ikill, than at their
perfeverance in fuch an undertaking. It was hardly to be expcded,
that the whole of the party who had engaged in it, would adhere
to each other till it was completed. One of them, named
Churchill, who had been mafter at arms in the (liip, and was
very active in the mutiny, accepted an invitation to live with
Waheadooa, who was fovereign of Teiarraboo at the time that Cook
laft vifited that peninfula. Another, named Thompfon, one of the
moft ignorant and brutal of the crew, accompanied him ; but they very
fhortly difagreed. Waheadooa died foon afterward, without children;
and Churchill, having been his tayo, fucceeded to his property and
dignity , according to the eftabliflied cuftom of the country . Thomp-
fon was excited by envy of Churchill's preferment, and by revenge
for fome tricks he had played him, to take an opportunity of flioot-
ing him. The natives rofe to punifli the murder of their new fove-
reign, and floned Thompfon to death. A boy of four years old,^
who was nephew of the late Waheadooa, and fon of the chief of
Weiooroo, was acknowledged as the fucceflbr of his uncle, whofc
name devolved upon him. as it had before done upon Churchill.
Pomarre was anxious that the reft of the Englidi fliould remain
unconnefted with Teiarraboo j but confentcd that fome of them Ihould
take up their refidence at Pappara with Temarrc, who continued to
be on terms of friendlliip with him. They had all been conftantly
XXX
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
and plentifully fupplicd with provifions by Pomarre's orders, and he
at lenoth requcfted in return their affiftance to attack Eimeo, where
another infurredion was formed againft Motooaro. They declined to
go thither, but cleaned for him the arms which Captain Bligh and
Captain Cox had given him. Hete-hete, who remained at Otaheite
when the Bounty failed, and a few other natives who had learned
to ufe them, eafily turned the fcale of vidlory againft the in-
furgents, and confirmed Motooaro in the peaceable polTeffion of his
rights.
A few months afterwards the weftern diftrids of Attahooroo and
Tettaha (where Teppahoo had died, and his fucceffor Tetowha was
inimical to Otoo) invaded both Oparre and Pappara, through jea-
loufy of the growing power of the royal family. On this occafion
the mutineers thought it neceffary, for their own fafety, to arm on the
fide of their friends. Their fchooner having at length been launched,
rigged, and provided with every thing neceffary, they failed with
a fleet of war canoes from the north-eaftern diftrids againft Atta-
hooroo ; which was likewife attacked from the quarter of Pappara
by Temarre and the Englifh people refiding with him. Potatto,
Tetowha, and their adherents, took refuge in the mountains, and in a
fhort time obtained peace by fubmitting to Otoo's authority. They alfo
furrendered to him the royal maro, which was carried in triumph to the
morae at Oparre, after having remained at Attahooroo twenty-one
years. Tetowha, who was a young man of remarkable comelinefs,
died foon afterwards, and an uncle of Pomarre's was appointed in his
ftead, Potatto, througii the interceflion of the Englifli, was allowed
to retain his authority in Attahooroo. After paying a vifit to Motoo-
aro, with whom fome of them refided from that time, they laid up
the fchooner at Mattavae during the tempeftuous feafon, which ufually
prevails between November and March.
Early in 1791 the ceremony took place of invefting Otoo with the
royal garment, on which occafion Captain Cox's flag was fent entirely
round the ifland in token of the young chief's fupremacy. It was
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xxxi
admitted to pafs through Teiarraboo, from fear of Pomarrc's Enghfli
allies, rather than from willingnefs to fubmit to him. He therefore
propofed to them to affift his own and Temarre's people, in com-
pelling the inhabitants of that peninfula to abfoliite fubmiflion. The
chief part of the mutineers having agreed to the propofal, they
again launched and provided their fchooncr, failed from Mattavae
Sift March, leaving only four of their number there, and reached
Pappara on the 24th. In the mean time the Pandora frigate, com-
manded by Captain Edwards, which had been lent from England
on hearing of the mutiny in the Bounty, arrived at Otaheitc, and
anchored at Mattavae on the 23d. The Engliflimen wiio had re-
mained there, went on board the fame day, and were immediately
put into confinement. Lieutenants Corner and Hay ward, the latter
of whom had failed in the Bounty, and accompanied Captain Bligh
in the launch, were difpatched with two of the Pandora's boats, to
purfue the fchooner. The mutineers had hardly anchored at Pap-
para, when a meffenger, whom Hete-hete had fent by land, in-
formed them of what had befallen their comrades ; upon which
they immediately failed again, with three others who lived at Pap-
para, leaving behind only one of their party, and Brown whom
they had met there. The former walked all night toward Mattavae,
and furrendered himfelf on board the ihip the next day ; when alfo
the boats returned thither, not having been able to overtake the
fchooner, which had fleered for the fouth-eafternmoft point of the
illand. She, however, returned to Pappara on the 27th, and fix of
the mutineers went up to the hills within the country ; the other
three were kept in confinement that night and the next day by the
orders of Temarre, who likewife feized the fchooner. In the night
of the 28th they efcaped, by Brov/n's aliifiance, to the weftern coaft,
and reached, by daybreak, a boat with which Lieutenant Corner
had come from the fhip the preceding day in purfuit of them. He
left them, with the boat, in the charge of a petty officer, and
afcended the heights, guided by Orapeia, to difcover the retreat of
xxxii PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
the reft. Lieutenant Hay ward having proceeded by water to Pappara,
and fearched for them in vain, was informed the next forenoon, that
they were coming down to Surrender themfelves, which they did,
laying down their arms as they approached his party ; and Mr.
Hay ward fent information to Lieutenant Corner, who was defcending
after them into the valley.
During the whole time of the mutineers' continuance at Otaheite,
Pomarre had remained at Teiarraboo, but upon the arrival of the Pandora
he repaired with his family to Oparre. He had then, in addition to Iddea,
taken to wife her younger fifter, Weirede ; but was ftill equally
influenced by the advice of the former. He readily co-operated with
the Britifh officers in their meafures for fecuring the mutineers, and
was anxious to prevent bad confequences from the refentment of
families with which they had formed connexions. Few of thefe
appear to have been highly refpedlable ; but one inflance occurred of a
very afFedling nature. A midfhipman, who had been adive in the
mutiny, had lived with the daughter of a perfon of property at
Mattavae, and fhe had borne a child to him. His imprifonment and
removal afflided her to fuch a degree as to bring on a decline that
terminated in her death. Her infant was left to the care of a fifter,
who cheriflied it with the utmofi: tendernefs. Three daughters and a
fon were left by others of the mutineers.
Notwithftanding the mournful interviews that daily took place
on board, between the Engliflimen, who were kept in irons, and
the native Xvomen with whom they had lived, the ufual courfe
of fcftivity, amufements, and debaucheries, was uninterrupted
during the continuance . of the fliip at Otaheite. She failed
on the 8th of May, accompanied by the fchooner which the mu-
tineers had built, under the command of a petty officer from the
Pandora. Brown, who had never been on friendly terms with the
mutineers, came away in the fhip j and Hete-hete went in her to
Bolabola, his native ifland. Pomarre and his wives were alfo ftill
deftrous of quitting the ifland, but their departure was ftrohgl^
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xxxiii
oppofed by Orapeia and other chiefs, whole perfuafions pic-
vailed*
Of the fourteen people who were feizcd at Otahcitc, and taken
away in the Pandora, four were drowned when the fliip was caft
away on her return j the reft were preferved in boats, and brought
to trial in England. Four of them were acquitted, as having had no
concern in the mutiny ; and were moftly provided for in Greenwich
Hofpital. Another was difcharged, his convidlion not having been
legally conduced. Two were pardoned, and have fince been em-
ployed in the navy. The remaining three were executed at Spithcad.
At the clofe of the fame year Captain Vancouver, in a fliip named
the Difcovery, and Lieutenant Broughton in the Chatham brig,
arrived at Otaheite. The veflels having been feparatcd on their pafT-
age, the Chatham firft reached that ifland, which was appointed for
their rendezvous. She anchored at Mattavae on the 27th of De-
cember 1 79 1, and the Difcovery joined her three days later. Po-
marre was then at Eimeo, but returned the following week with
Motooaro, who was much reduced in health, and died a fortnight
afterward. Another chief of the fame name, who was fovereign of
Huaheine, but acknowledged the fupremacy of Otoo, was at Mat-
tavae when the fliips arrived, and remained there while they ftaid.
Mannemanne, then named Moure, although he had fucceeded
Opoone in the fovereignty of Ulietea and Otaha, refided chiefly at
Otaheite. The expedition which had been meditated againfl: Teiar-
raboo had been carried into effed, and the younger brother of Otoo
had been appointed chief of that peninfula. Orapeia refided there
as regent for his nephew, and Weidooa at Oparre. Pomarre had
fixed his abode at Eimeo, and the inhabitants of that ifland
became reconciled and attached to his government, as regent for the
daughter of the deceafed Motooaro. Potatto remained likevvife in
amity and fubjeftion. Happae was flill capable of adivity, and
was then treated with reverence by his three fons, who were alio
cordially attached to each other. They all behaved with their ufual
f
xxxlv PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
hofpitality toward the Englifh ; but they could not diflliade Pomarre
from the mofl immoderate ufe of fpirituous Hquors, till his fut-
fcrings convinced him of the necellity of temperance. Some thefts,
which were evidently encouraged by the chiefs, interrupted the
fricndfhip that had prevailed ; and prevented the repetition of a
iliiplay of fireworks, with which they had been greatly delighted.
The vefTels failed on the 24th of January 1792.
Shortly afterward a private fhip, named the Matilda, Captain
Wcatherhead, touched at Otaheite for refrefhments , having failed
from Port Jackfon upon the fouthern whale fifliery. After a fort-
night's flay they departed, and on the 25th of February, the Ihip
was wrecked upon an extenfive reef in 22° fouth latitude, 1 38°! weft
longitude. The captain and crew efcaped in their boats to Otaheite ;
but upon landing again at that ifland, the inhabitants plundered them
of the articles they had faved from the wreck. This event became an
occafion of contention among the iflanders, and a part of the country
was in confequence laid wafte by Pomarre. The fhip's company were,
in other rcfpedls, well treated. A fmall veflel, called the Prince
William Henry, touching at Otaheite on the 26th of March, flayed
only three days. Some of the Matilda's people embarked in her, and
proceeded to the north- weft coaft of America.
Captain Bligh having been again fent out, to accomplifh the purpofes
of his former voyage which had been fruftrated by the mutiny,
arrived at Otaheite on the 7th of April 1792, in a fhip named the
Providence, attended by a fmall veflel called the Afliftance, com-
manded by Lieutenant Portlock. Pomarre reflded at Oparre whilft
the vcffels remained. Peace was reftored between the contending
diftrids by Captain Bligh's interference, and human facrifices were
offered on the occafion. A fecond coUedion of bread-fruit plants, &c.
was made, with which he failed after a ftay of three months.
Hetehete, and one of Pomarre's domeftics, accompanied him to the
Weft Indies, where the former remained to take care of the plants 1
the other came to England, but did not long furvive his arrival.
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xxxv
Several of the Matilda's people who chofc to continue upon tlic
ifland, attached themfelves to different families, and lived in indo-
lence and plenty.
The Daedalus fforefliip, Captain New, had followed Captain
Vancouver from England to Nootka Sound, and was dii patched from
thence, with Lieutenant Hanfon on board, to Port Jack fon. In her
way thither flie flopped a fortnight at Otahcite, in February 1793.
The fhip's company were treated with the utmoft friendfliipj and two
of the crew deferted, in order to fettle among the natives. One of
them was recovered by the contrivance of Orapeia, who advifed the
captain to detain him on board till the man fhould be fent back ; and
having aded his part fo well as to accomplifli the purpofe, he then
diverted himfelf at the expcnfe of his friends. The other defertcr,
who was a Swede, was fuffered to remain at Otaheite, where he was
found by Captain Wilfon. Only one of the Matilda's crew chofe to
depart with the Daedalus.
No information refpeiling this ifland having tranfpired between
the voyages of the Daedalus and the Duff, we refer to the narrative of
the latter for the intervening occurrences. Two private fliips, named
the Jenny and the Britannia, were at different periods at Otaheite, but
neither the events nor the dates of their vifits are accurately known.
It is reported that feveral of the Matilda's crew left the ifland in one
of thefe veffels ; and that fome of them ventured acrofs the Pacific
Ocean in their boats, one of which is underfl:ood to have reached
Timor,
The numerous detached accounts, from which the preceding nar-
rative has been with difficulty compiled, cannot but excite painful
fenfations in a ferious mind. While, in fome refped:s, the prudence
and humanity of our navigators are confpicuous, how much is it
to be lamented, that, in various important views, they appear to
have derived from the knowledge of chriflianity no advantage over
the heathen world ! More damage than benefit certainly has refulted
from their intercourfe. The manners of the natives had become more
f 2
xxxvi PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
depraved by means of the frequent vifits which occurred during the firfl
ten years : and they had, in fome degree, evidently ameliorated during
an equal fpace of time, in which the ifland was wholly deferted by
Europeans. For ten years pall, nominal Chriftians have almoft con-.
Ihintly refided there ; and the rciult appears from the ftate in which
the inhabitants were found by Captain Wilfon. It is confolatory to
clofe this hiftorical view of Otaheite with the arrival and fettlement of
feveral real Chriftians in that ifland, who have devoted their lives to
the purpofes of inftruding the natives by their dodrine and example
in the purity of the gofpel ; and of imparting to them the moft
cflential benefits of civilization, without the vices too often attendant
upon it.
IJJands conneBcdwith Otaheite.
MOST of the iflands which maintain an intercourfe with Otaheite,
have been repeatedly mentioned in the preceding narrative. That which
more immediately depends upon it, is
Tethuroa, confifting of feveral fmall low iflets, enclofed in a
reef about ten leagues in circuit ; and fituated a little to the weft ward
of north from Point Venus, at the diftance of eight leagues. It is the
property of the fovereign of Otaheite, who allows no bread-fruit to
be planted upon thefe fpots ; that the people who inhabit them, may
be obliged to bring the fifh which abound there, to Oparre, to be ex-
changed for bread-fruit. The reef is inacceflible to large canoes, and
Pomarre has therefore made ufe of this place as a magazine for his
moft valuable articles of property, not being expofed to the depredations
of a hoftile fleet. The iflets alfo abound with cocoa-nuts, which
flourifh moft upon the loweft places. They are reforted to by the wan-
dering fociety of the arreoes, efpecially the women, and by the effemi-
nate clafs, with the purpofe of increafing the delicacy of their
appearance. The pafTage is often difficult and dangerous. The ftated
inhabitants have been reprefented as few ; but the occafional concourfe
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xxxvii
of people is fuch, that in the mofl: variable and tempcftuoiis IcaCoii
ot the yciir, one hundred canoes have been feen together upon tliis I'pot.
The only illand, befide Tethuroa, that is in abfolute fubjcdtion to
Otaheite is M a i T e a , which belongs to the chief of Teiarraboo. It is
lituated to the eaft of that peninfula, at the diftance of more than
twenty leagues ; and being, though fmall, very lofty, is always
obferved by perfons who approach Otaheite from the eaftward. It is
not above three miles in circuit, and the north fide is too flecp tor
habitations ; but the fouthern fide defcends more gradually, and has a
border of low land next the fea. This little ifland is very populous,
but lefs civilized than Otaheite, from whence it is vilital by a large
war canoe during the variable winds, and pearls are procured in ex-
change for the iron work that can be fpared. To the eaftward it is
enclofed by a coral reef. It is in latitude 17" 53', weft longitude
148° 12'. It is the only high ifland adjacent to the eaftward of
Otaheite, and maintains intercourfe with fome of the low iflands
toward the north-eaft.
The ifland neareft to Otaheite is that called, by Captain Cook,
EiM EO, but more ufually named Morea by the natives. Its diftance
from the weftern coaft of Otaheite is about four leagues. Its extent
has been varioufly reprefented, but is probably about ten miles from
north to fouth, and half as much in breadth. It differs from
Otaheite in having land-locked harbours in feveral parts of its coaft,
and in being interfered by fpacious valleys. It has a very narrow
border of low land next the fea, from whence the hills rife in fudden
acclivities ; but from the harbours on the northern fliore they afcend
gradually, and the lower hills appear to be the moft fertile parts. Its
hiftory has been interwoven with that of Otaheite, with which it
appears to be at prefent amicably and firmly conneded. The natives
are ftrongly additled to theft ; and the females have been thought in-
ferior in beauty to thofe of any neighbouring ifland. The harbour ot
Taloo, on the north coaft, which is thought moft eligible for vtfllls,
is fituated in 17° 30' latitude, 150° weft longitude. Eimeo was
xxxviii PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
unavoidably fccn by every navigator who has vifited Otaheite.
Captain Wallis named it the Dukc-of York's ifland.
The illand nearefl to the wcftward from Eimeo is Tapooa-
manoo, which was dilcovercd on the 28th of July 1767 by Captain
Wallis, and called by him, Sir Charles Saunders's ifland. It is fituated
in latitude 17° 38', weft longitude 150° 40^. Its greateft extent is
from caft to weft, about fix miles. Its centre rifes in a mountain
with a double peak ; but the greater part had a fertile appearance, and
the lower grounds abounded with cocoa-nut trees. The habitations
fecmed to be fmall, and not very numerous. Its government has
ufually depended upon that of Huaheine, from whence it is diftant
about fourteen leagues, fouth by eaft. It is not known that Europeans
ever landed upon it.
HuAHJiiNE (or Aheine, which fignifies woman) is the eaftern-
moft ifland of the group called the Society Iflands by Captain Cook,
who difcovered them in July 1769 } and it is twenty-eight leagues to
the north-weft of Otaheite, being fituated in latitude 16° 43', 151° 7'
weft longitude. It has about feven leagues of circuit, and is divided into
two peninfulas by an ifthmus overflowed at high water : in othef
parts of the ifland there are alfo fait lakes near the fea. It has a very
narrow ftripe of fertile low land next the fliore j and the hills, which
are not nearly fo high as thofe of Otaheite, but more ftrongly
marked by volcanic fire, are in fome parts entirely cultivated. The
produdlions are fimilar to thofe of Otaheite, but earlier in their feafon.
The men are generally larger and more robuft : both fexes are lefs
timid and lefs curious. They were more daring in their thefts from
the Englifli, having never felt the force of their weapons of de-
ftrudlion in the manner that the Otaheiteans had done.
Huaheine was always vifited by Captain Cook on departing
from Otaheite. During his firft two voyages, the fovereign power
over Huaheine was vefted in a friendly old man named Ore, who adled
as regent for a boy named Tairetarea. He was not more than ten years
old in 1777, t)ut Ore had then been obliged to refign the government.
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xxxlx
and no one fecming to fucceed him as regent, there was confcqucntly
very little authority maintained. It has (ince that time been vifitcd
by Lieutenant Watts, Captain Bligh, and Captain Edwards; but
no farther information is afforded by their voyages refpedling the go-
vernment of the country. In the clofe of 1791, it appears that the
chiefs of Huaheine, and of Tapooamanoo, acknowledged the
fupremacy of Otoo. The wars of Huaheine have always had a
relation to the ifland next to be mentioned.
Ulietea, or, more properly, Reiadea, is fituated feven leagues
W.S.W. from Huaheine. It is wholly furrounded by reefs, inter-
fperfed with fmall iilands, and forming feveral harbours. One of
thefe, upon the north- weftern coaft, is in latitude 16" 45'!, well:
longitude 151° 34'!. It is lefs populous and fertile than Huaheine,
although above twice its extent, and more refembling Otaheite in its
appearance; but, like the former, it has feveral fait marflics or
lagoons. The inhabitants are in general fmaller and darker than
thofe of the preceding iflands. Its importance in the clufter to which
it belongs, is not now proportionate to its relative magnitude. A few
years before Captain Wallis's vifit to Otaheite, it was the mofl
eminent of the group, and in flrid: alliance with the adjacent ifland
of Otaha, as well as with Huaheine. Its decline appears to have
originated in the feceffion of Otaha from this league. The fleets of
Huaheine and Ulietea were attacked by the Angle force of Bolabola.
The combat was likely to ifllie in favour of the united fleets, when
that of Otaha came up to afllfl: Bolabola, and decided the vidlory
by a great flaughter of their opponents, who were already ex-
haufl:ed. They purfued their advantage with fuch alacrity and
fuccefs, that they conquered Huaheine, in an attack upon that
ifland two days after their former engagement. Many inhabitants
of both the fubjugated iflands took refuge at Otaheite; and
having obtained from thence a reinforcement of ten war canoes,
they landed at Huaheine in the night, and furprifcd their con-
querors; whom they partly defl:royed, and completely drove from
xl PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
that ifland. They could not, however, regain the ground that had
been loft at Ulietea. Its former fovereign, Ooroo, was permitted
to return to his hereditary diftrid:, Oopoa, at the fouth-eaftern point
of the ifland ; but Toopaea and Omae, with many others, were
deprived of their pofllfTions, and compelled to feek fupport in other
iflands, their property being feized by the vidtorious chiefs. The
latter foon quarrelled among themfelves. The people of Otaha
claiming an equal fliare of the fpoil, were attacked, and fubdued,
by their formidable allies of Bolabola j and a chief from that ifland,
named Oreo, was appointed governor of Ulietea by the new fovereign,
Opoone. Both thefe perfons were at Ulietea when Captain Cook
vifited the ifland in 1 769 ; and Oreo kept the fame power during his
latter voyages alfo j but in that of 1777, Ooroo, the former fovereign,
had removed to Huaheine; and Ore, who had been regent of that
ifland, then refided at Ulietea.
At the death of Opoone his dominions were divided, and both
Ulietea and Otaha fell to the pofllefllon of a brother of Iddea, now
known at Otaheite by the name of Mannemanne, who defigned that
at his own deceafe the fovereignty of thefe iflands fhould revert to his
nephew Otoo. His authority does not, however, appear to have
been fufficicnt to fecure the revcrfion, nor even the poffeflion of this
dignity; of which he has fince been deprived j either by his temporary
fubjcdls, or by their neighbours of Bolabola.
The people of Ulietea behaved very fubmiffively to Cook upon his
firft vifit, apparently in the hope excited by Toopaea, that he would
refcue them from the yoke of Bolabola. He was alfo treated with
much friendship by Oreo; but the thefts which are cuflomary at
thefe iflands could not be prevented by the authority of the latter.
The mythology adopted by thefe poor heathens feems to be better
iinderftood here than in the other iflands, and even to be regularly
taught in its feveral diftridts. Both Toopaea and Mannemanne,
after being expelled from Ulietea, aded as chief priefts at Otaheite.
Otaha is not more than two miles diHant from the northernmofl:
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xli
point of the preceding ifland ; and no paflage for fliipping has been
found through the reef which connedls them. It is about half the
iize of Ulietea, which it refembles in its afpcdt, but js ftill lefs fertile or
populous. Captain Cook vifited it in 1769 with his boats, in com-
pany with Opoone, who then principally refided here. In 1773,
Lieutenant Pickerfgill went likewife in a boat entirely round the
ifland to procure provifions ; but he was obliged to make reprifals,
in order to recover his flock in trade which had been ftolen. The
Englifh were treated here with the fame tokens of refpedl that the
natives lliew to their, own principal chiefs, in confequence of the
account which the latter had received from Toopaea. The clofe
vicinity of Ulietea has rendered it unneceffary for any fhip to anchor
at Otaha. Captain Edwards examined both thefe iflands on the 10th
of May 1 791, in his fearch after Fletcher Chriflian and his com-
panions.
BoLABOLA (more ufually pronounced Borabora) is fituated four
leagues N. W. of Otaha, to which it is inferior in extent ; but
the reef with which it is furrounded is nearly full of iflets, much
larger than thofe which are fcattered among the rocks that enclofe
Otaha and Ulietea. It differs from thofe iflands, and from Huaheine,
in having but one harbour on its coafl: ; whereas the fliores of the
others being ftrongly indented, form like the coafls of Eimeo,
numerous places of flielter for fliipping. It is alfo difl;inguifhed by
a very lofty double-peaked mountain in its centre, and is more rude
and craggy than the refl: of the Society ifles. Its cafl:ern fide has a
barren appearance ; the wefl:ern is more fertile : a low border which
furrounds the whole, together with the iflands on the reef, are pro-
dudlive and populous. Its earlieft inhabitants are faid to have been
malefadors banifhed from the neighbouring iflands. Their numbers
rapidly increafing, and their military prowefs rifing to great credit,
they eftabliflied their authority in both the iflands lafl: mentioned,
as well as in the two which are next to be defcribed. Their conquefls
acquired them fo much refpedt, that the fuppofed tutelary divinity of
g
xiii PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
Bolabola, named Oora, or Oiaa, had been adopted by the people of
Tciarraboo, in preference to two imaginary deities whom they for-
merly worfliippcd. The Bolabolan warriors are pundlured in a dif-
ferent manner from thofe of the more eaftern iflands.
Captain Cook did not land at Bolabola upon his firfl or fecond
voyage. In 1 777 he was prevented by contrary winds from anchoring
in the harbour, which is very fpacious ; and he landed in his boat,
to purchafe an anchor which had been loft by M. de Bougainville at
Hedea, and had been conveyed from thence to Bolabola for the grati-
fication of Opoone. That chief, although then very old and feeble,
was ftill univerfally efteemed and feared. The ram which the
Spaniards had left at Oweitapeha, had .alfo been fent to this diftant
place : Captain Cook therefore prefented Opoone with an ewe to
accompany it. That chief having died, probably during the long
interval which elapfed between the voyages of Cook and thofe of
later navigators, was fucceeded in his government of this and the
following iflands by his daughter. She was about twelve years old
in 1774, and had then been betrothed to a chief named Boba, who
governed Otaha, under Opoone, and was defigned to fucceed him in
the fovcreignty. In 1791, when Captain Edwards vifited Bolabola
to inquire after the mutineers, a man, faid to be named Tatahoo,
had the chief authority. The identity of this perfon with Boba
is not rendered unlikely by the difference of names, one title being
feldom borne fo long a time by the fame perfon. Thefe four iflands
were named by Captain Cook the Society Iflands, on account of
the fhort diftances by which they are feparated from each other. The
licentious fociety called Arreoe, extends both to this group and to
Otaheitc. The members of it wander perpetually in great numbers
from one ifland to another, performing dances and plays, and in-
dulging in every kind of profligacy.
The fmall ifland of Maurooa lies about four leagues weft of the
northern part of Bolabola, to which it is fubjed:. It is wholly fur-
rounded by a reef, and its centre rifcs in a high round hill. Its
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xliii
produdions and inhabitants are fimilar to thofe of the neighbouring
countries ; but it has not any harbour for fliipping. It is fliid that
pearls are procured from this ifland by the people of Otahcite.
Toobiie, confining of fome very fmall low iflets, connedlcd by a
reef, lies four or five leagues north of Bolabola ; to which it is
fubfervient, in a fimilar manner as Tethuroa, which it rcfemblcs, is
to Otaheite. The flated inhabitants are only a few families j but as
the coaft abounds with turtle, it is much reforted to, not only by the
Society iflanders, but by the natives of a low ifland to the eaftward,
called Papda, which has not yet been feen by Europeans. It is
afferted that their language is unintelligible to the natives of the
Society ifles ; which leads to the fuppofition that fome colony has
been formed there of a different race from all the neighbourinor
iflanders. Two other fimilar affemblages of iflets and reefs, which
lie from thirty to forty leagues more weftward, are known to the
Society iflanders by the names Mopeha and Whcnnooa-bora. They
were difcovered by Captain Wallis in 1767, who called them Lord
Howe's and Scilly iflands. The latter are inhabited, the former are
only occafionally frequented. Both of them abound with cocoa-nut
trees, turtle, the pearl-oyfter, and all kinds of fifli common to the
climate.
To the eaftward of Otahcite are fcattered numerous other iflands,
chiefly of the defcription of thofe laft mentioned, and commonly full
of people. Many of them were difcovered by Quiros, Schouten and
Le Maire, Roggewein, Byron, Wallis, Carteret, Bougainville,
Cook, Edwards, Bligh, Vancouver and Broughton: and fome are
now added by Captain Wilfon. The intricacy and difficulty of the
navigation has procured them the titles of the Labyrinth, and the
Dangerous Archipelago. They have been found difperfed from 14°
to 27° of latitude, and as far as 25" eaftward from Otaheite. All
the inhabitants appear to be of the fame race with the Society iflanders,
but are fome what darker in their complexions, and more ferocious
in their manners. Many other iflands, bcfide thofe difcovered by
g 2
xlir niELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
Europeans, have been defcribcd by the natives of the Society ifles,
as lying to the caftward, fouthward, and weftward' of their group;
and fcveral of them are rcprefented as lofty, fertile, and extenfive.
An illand, called Oheteroa, fituated in latitude 22" 27', 150" 47' weft
longitude, was difcovered by Captain Cook 13th Auguft 1769, and
recognifcd by Toopaea, who was then on board the Endeavour. The
fiime pcrfon laid down the pofitions of feventy-feven iflands, which
were known to him either by obfervation or report. Not far from
Oheteroa is Toobbuai, already mentioned as the ifland- where Fletcher
Chnftian attempted to form a fettlement. It lies in latitude 23° 25^
and 149° 23' weft longitude. Both thefe iflands are populous, al-
though neither of them is twenty miles in circuit. The former
differs from the Society Iflands only in having no furrounding reef
of coral. The latter entirely refembles them in appearance ; but the
natives are more fedate and lefs hofpitable. It was firft inhabited
within a few paft generations, by fome people who had attempted to
go with a canoe from an ifland far to the weftward, toward another
with which they had cuftomary intercourfe, but were driven by tem-
peftuous weather upon Toobouai. Another canoe, in which was a
chief of Ulietea, an anceftor of Iddea, pafting from thence to Ota-
heite, was likewife driven upon this ifland fome years later. He
was admitted by thofe who had preceded him, to the chief authority
at Toobouai ; and he divided the country into three diftridls, which
retain the names of Reiadea, Waheine, and Taha, three of the Society
ifles. A third canoe alfo drifted hither, with the flceleton of a man
in it, which was recognifed by one of the Otaheiteans who accom-
panied the mutineers of the Bounty to Toobouai. He had killed this
man in one of the fea-fights between Pomarre and Maheine, and was
afterward obliged to efcape by fwimming, leaving his canoe, with
the corpfe in it, to the direcftion of the winds and waves. Accidents
fimilar to tbefe are known to have occurred in feveral other parts of
this ocean. An inftance is given by Captain Cook, of a canoe which,
likewife in attempting the paflTage between Otaheite and Ulietea, was
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xW
driven to an iRind aWedfF'ateoo, two -hundred leagues diflant. Of
twenty perfons, only four furvived the famine and fatigue which they
endured before.they :reached that place, where they were kindly re-
ceived. Three of them were found there, and recognifcd by Omac,
in 1777, when Captain Cook difcovcrcd the ifland, at leaft twelve
years after their arrival. It is fituated in latitude 20" i\ 158" 15'
weft longitude. It is fmall, high, and populous. There arc
feveral iflands in its neighbourhood, fome of which are fubjcft to
Wateoo. All the inhabitants are of the fame race and language with
thofe already defcribcd.
We may hope that the gofpel will be fpread from Otaheite, by
means of its ufual intercourfe with other iflands, to thofe of Maitea,
Tethuroa, and Eimeo, the four Society ifles, and the fmallcr iflands
dependent upon them. All thefe have fomctimes been called the
Society ifles ; but the reafon for which fome of them were fo named
by Cook does not apply to the reft. There is at the fame time fo
ftrong a common refemblance, and fo intimate a connexion among
the whole of this group, that it requires to be diftinguiflied by fome
colledive title. The name of his prefent Majefty was given to
Otaheite by Captain Wallis ; but it has been fuperfeded, as all foreign
denominations fhould be, by that which the natives themfelves give
to their country. They are not however known to give col/e^/ve
titles to the groups of iflands inhabited by them. All thofe which
have been defcribed were brought to notice, revifited, enriched with
European articles of food and commerce, and at length have received
inftrudlion in chriftianity, during the reign of his prefent Majefty :
whom may God preferve ! Other aflemblages of iflands in the Pacific
Ocean have, for much Icfs important caufes, been named after Spanifli
monarchs ; as the Philippine and Caroline iflands. We fliall, there-
fore, ufe the liberty, when fpeaking of tlie whole group, to denominate
them the Georgian iflands. The dirediion wherein they lie ren-
ders the paflTage to windward difficult and precarious ; and the diftindt
governments by which they are mutually divided and oppofed, muft
xivi PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
be expedcd to retard, in forne mcafure, the progrefs of the gofpel
throu«»h this clufler ; but we truft, through the divine bleffing, that
thefc obftacles will be furmounted by the peculiar advantages attending
our numerous miffion at the principal ifland, the influence of which
over the others has been already greatly increafed by its frequent
intercourfe with the Englifli.
Geographical and hijlorical Account of Tongataboo, and the IJIands
ivhich are conneSied zvith it.
TONGATABOO prefents an afpedl very different from that of ^
Otaheite j to the weftward of which it is fituated, at a diftance of four
hundred and eighty leagues, and of more than three hundred leagues
from Wateoo, the wefternmofl of the iflands before mentioned. It is
about twenty leagues in circuit, and nearly triangular in its form. Its
northern fide is indented by a bay, which communicates with an
extenfive lagoon within the ifland. The weftern point of this inlet
was afcertained by Captain Cook to be in latitude ai" 8" i(]f\ and
1 75" 4' 42" weft longitude. On this fide alfo an extenfive harbour is
formed by reefs and iflands which cover its whole length. The fliore
is in this part low and fandy ; but afcends on the other fides of the ifland,
in a perpendicular coral rock, from feven to ten feet above the fea at
flood-tide, which rifcs from three feet and a half to four feet and three
quarters. A reef that lies two miles N. W. by W. from the northernmofl
point of the ifland forms a road for fhipping; but it is far from being
fecure, the coral bank, which is the only anchoring-ground, being
very fteep, and extending only three cables.' length from the fhore.
The greater part of the coaft round the ifland is guarded by flat rocks
about two hundred yards wide, and of greater extent toward the
fouth-eaftern point, near which is the moft elevated part of the
ifland, about one hundred feet high above the fea. The interior^is
di\'crfified by many gently rifing grounds. The foil is loofe and
PRELliMINARY DISCOURSE. xlvil
black to a confidcrable depth, but intermixed with ftrata of rcddilh
clay : it is chiefly very fertile, and in many parts highly cultivated ;
the plantations, in the midfi: of which the principal houfes are placed,
being alfo very neatly enclofcd. The vegetable productions are moftly
fimilar to thofe of the places already defcribed, the cocoa-nut being
in greater perfediion, the bread-fruit in lefs, than they are at the
more lofty iflands. There are feveral plants at Tongataboo that were
not known at Otaheite; efpecially fliaddocks, and a new fpccies of
the Jefuits' bark, likely to equal that of Peru in medicinal virtue.
It is well furnifhed with trees, which grow very luxuriantly. Water
is fomewhat fcarce, and moftly brackifh. There were no dogs before
they were fupplicd by Europeans. Of other animals there are the
fame kinds as at Otaheite, and feveral fpecies of birds not common
to that ifland, particularly green parroquets with red feathers on their
heads. Some kinds of birds are ufually tamed and fed by the inha-
bitants. There are alfo bats in great numbers, and fome of fuch
magnitude, that the tips of their wings, when extended, are from
three to four feet apart.
This ifland was difcovered 27th January 1643, ^7 ^^^^ Janfan
Tafman, a Dutch navigator. The inhabitants came unarmed on
board his fhips, without the leaft apparent dcfign or apprehenfion of
mifchief. They exchanged hogs, fowls, and fruits, for European
articles, which they alfo pilfered as they found opportunity ; but in
other refpedls they behaved in the mofl: courteous and friendly manner.
Tafman anchored in the roadftead ; and fent his boats, to fcarch for
frefla water, into the bay already defcribed. To the former he gave
the name of Van Diemen, and to the latter that of Maria, in honour
of the perfon then governor of the Dutch Eaft Indies and his lady.
An elderly chief, who feems at that time to have had the fovereign
authority, came repeatedly on board, fliewed the mofl profound refped
to his vifitors, and was highly gratified by the prefcnts which they
made to him. Among thefe was a wooden bowl, probably the fitme
that long afterwards was ufed by the fovercigns of Tongataboo as a di-
xlviii PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
vining-cup, to convidl pcrfons accufed of crimes ; and the fame
homage which is rendered to the fovereign when prefent, was paid
during his abfencc to the bowl, as his reprefentative.
No weapons were feen by Tafman at Tongataboo ; which circum-
ftance, as well as their unfufpicious condudl toward Grangers fo for-
midably equipped, indicates that they had been accuftomed to a ftate
of general peace and fecurity. No quarrel occurred during this inter-
view ; and the Dutch, after having obtained abundance of provifions,
but very little water, proceeded to the adjacent iflands to the northward.
Captain Cook, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, vifited this place
in 1773, having previoufly fpent fome days at the neighbouring ifland
of Eooa. They anchored in Van Diemen road, Odober 3d ; and the
inhabitants, who had met them half way between the iflands, behaved
with the fame confidence and kindnefs, that they had fhewn, one hundred
and thirty years before, to Tafman, They fell alfo to the fame pradices
of pilfering ; for which fome of them who were peculiarly daring
were puniflied, without betraying appearances of refentment. Hete-
hete and Omae, who were on board the fliips, were at firft perplexed
by a difference of dialed ; as thefe iflanders make ufe of the confonants
f, k, and hard g, which are unknown at the Georgian iflands : but
they foon perceived the identity of the radical language, and became
able to convcrfe fluently with the natives.
A man, named Attago, who had fome authority among his coun-
trymen, attached himfelf to Captain Cook, and rendered him efTential
fervices. He introduced the Englifli to an elderly chief of fuperior
rank, named Toobou, who likewife aded in a friendly manner,
although with a degree of referve. A perfon of much higher dignity
was alfo met with, named Latoo Libooloo, to whom homage was
paid by all ranks, although he appeared very defedive of intelled.
He bore the title of Areckee, which was applied to no other perfon
except Poulaho, then the Ibvereign chief, and fifth in defcent from
the perfon who reigned at the period of Tafman 's vifit. The mother
jaf Libooloo, who lived at a diflant ifland of the fame group, was
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xlix
elder fiftcr of Poulaho's father; and had this fon, and two daughters,
by a man who came from the extenfive neighbouring iflands named
Feje. The members of this family were called Tammaha, and ranked
above Poulaho himfelf, notwithftanding his polTcflion of the fuprcmc
power, either on account of their mother's feniority, or of fomc
pre-eminent dignity of their foreign parent. One of the daughters,
refided with their mother, the other at Tongataboo. Libooloo had
alio an infant fon at Eooa, to whom extreme attention was paid.
Poulaho was then abfent from Tons;ataboo.
It became necelTary to prohibit the purchafe of curiofities from the
iflandcrs, in order to obtain adequate fupplics of food : thefc were
afterwards abundantly furniflicd. Weapons of a very formidable na-
ture were then found among then, although they ufually went un-
armed. Their fpears were barbed in a very dangerous manner, and
their clubs very curioufly carved. Some of their canoes were exe-
cuted in a ftylc far fuperior to thofe of Otaheite, the planks being
feather-edged, and lapped over, which prevented the water entering,
as it continually does into the others. They had lefs cloth, but more
matting than the Georgian iflanders : it was more neatly and beauti-
fully made, and was ufed to cover their floors, as well as for drefs.
Their bafket-work alfo difcovered much ingenuity, and their cloth was
glazed fo as to refift wet. The women were far lefs immodeft ; but
the men were more generally addifted to the pepper-root draught,
here called kava. The fubmiflion paid to the chiefs, and the diftinc-
tion of private property, were much greater here than at Otaheite, An
old drunken man, then thought to be a prieft, was refpefted as a perfon
of rank ; but fome images, found in the houfe where their dead were
interred, were evidently objedts of contempt rather than of worfliip ;
and no article of food was depofitcd in thofe places. Many of the
people were obferved to have loft their little fingers. Their mode of
falutation is by touching their nofes together ; and, unlike the Ota-
heiteans, they ufe an expreffion of thankfulnefs for whatever they
receive, always lifting it over their heads. They were then little
h
1 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
acquainted with the vakie of iron, of which the only article found
among them was an awl, made from a nail. This had been brought
from a diftant ifland, where Captain Wallis had left it ; the articles
which Tafman gave them having been expended, and forgotten fince
his voyage : the tradition of his vifit had neverthelcfs been preferved,
and even its period was afcertained by them.
Captain Cook revifited Tongataboo in company with Captain
Clcrke in 1 777 ; and anchored on the lOth of June in Maria bay, the
accefs to whicli through the reef was found difficult. They had fpent a
confidcrable time among the more northern iflands that are fubjed: to
Ton"-ataboo; and were accompanied from thence by Poulaho, whofe
family name was found to be Futtafaihe, by which title his brother, and
his fon then under twelve years old, were ufually called. Poulaho was
fhort, and extremely corpulent, about forty years old, and in his
behaviour fenfible and fedate. His confort was daughter of an elderly
chief named Marewage. Her brother Fenou, who was then thirty
years of age, filled the office of commander in chief; the mofl fre-
quent duties of which appeared to confift in the punifhment of cri-
minals. His authority, it was faid, extended to the condudl of the fove-
reign himfelf. Both the father and fon were thin and tall. Marewage
had alfo another fon, named Tooboueit5a ; and a brother named
Toobou, much older than the chief of that name before mentioned.
All thefe perfons were highly reverenced by their countrymen; and
they vied w ith each other in the profufion of entertainments which
they provided for their Englifh guefts, to whom a houfe was affigned
at the weftern point of the creek leading into the lagoon. In the
neighbourhood was obferved a curious caufeway, built of coral ftone
acrofs a morafs, with a kind of circus in its centre, apparently of
very ancient conrtrudion. The country immediately around was
imcultivated ; and the vaft concourfe of people who came either to
perform in the entertainments exhibited to the Englifh, or to be
fpedators of them, was produdlive of various inconveniences.
Several thefts were committed ; but no adt of violence, except on a
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. li
goat that Captain Cook had intended to leave there. He prefcatcd a
bull and cow, a horfe and mare, a ram and two ewes, with Ibmc
goats, to Poulaho and Fcnou, who were the perfons mofl: likely to
take care of them. A couple of rabbits, which had been given to the
latter, had already bred ; and fomc Otahcitean dogs, which had been
left in 1773 with Attago, had multiplied. Some of the animals
having previoufly been ftolen from Captain Cook, he had ventured to
put the king and feveral chiefs into confinement, till reftitution was
made. The natives affembled in arms to releafe them, but by
Poulaho's order they defifted ; and the animals being brought back,
he and his nobles were fet at liberty, without any diminution of their
friendfhip, or even interruption of their entertainments. At the clofe
of thefe, fome officers, wandering over the illand, were plundered,
both of the articles they had taken for trade, and of their arms.
On receiving this intelligence, Poulaho and the other chiefs prudently
removed from the neighbourhood, to avoid a fecond captivity ; but
they returned upon being afliired that no violence would be ufed, and
they caufed the things which had been ftolen to be reftored. Captain
Cook then vifited M5oa, a village fituated a league from the bay,
upon the banks of the inlet, where the chiefs have places of abode
and elegant plantations. The boat and its contents were left unguarded
on the bank, by the diredlion of Poulaho, who engaged that nothing
would be ftolen. The fliips were found, upon their return, to have
been like wife exempt from depredation, through the vigilance and
authority of Fenou : but a quarrel took place the following day
between a working party and fome of the natives, three of whom
were confined and flogged, and a fourth fliot through the neck with
a ball by the centry. The poor man narrowly efcaped death, and no
meafures were taken for revenge, either by the chiefs or the common
people. The king dining on board feemed highly pleafed with the
pewter plates ; and being prefented with one, faid that he would
ubftitute it for the bowl which had before fuftained the offices
of chief juftice and viceroy. At another dinner, which was
h2
lii PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
given on (liore by Captain Cook, he invited, at Poulaho's defirc,
Mongoula Kfiipa, the fifter of Latoo Libooloo. The king had
been acciiftomed to abftain from eating in her brother's prefencc,
without fliewing him any other mark of reverence : but to her he
paid the fame homage that he received from his own fubjeds, em-
bracing her feet with his hands.
Captain Cook prolonged his ftay till July 5, to obferve an eclipfe
of the fun ; and he was delayed feveral days later for want of a
favourable w ind to carry the fhips out of the harbour by a channel
that he had difcovered to the eaflward, which was fafcr than the
northern paffage whereby they had entered the bay. During this
time he revifited Mooa, and was prefent at a curious ceremony called
the natche. On the nth of July they, with fome difficulty, cleared
the reefs by which the harbour is formed, and proceeded to Eooa.
It is not known that any other navigator vifited Tongataboo
before the laft day of 1787, when M. de la Peroufe pafled it to the
weftward without anchoring. He laid to, off the fouthern fhore ; and
feven or eight canoes having approached within twenty yards of the
French fliips, the natives leaped out of them, and fwam alongfidc
with cocoa-nuts in each hand, which they exchanged very honeftly
for bits of iron, nails, and fmall hatchets. They foon after went
on board with confidence and cheerfulnefs ; and a young man, who
■aflerted that he was the fon of Fenou, received feveral prefents w'ith cries
of joy. He prelTed them to land, and promifed abundance of provifions,
which their canoes were not capable of bringing off. The iflanders
were noify, but had no appearance of ferocity, although they brought
fome clubs in their boats. They had all loft two joints of their
little fingers. La Peroufe bore away, the evening of the following day,
feeing no profped: of obtaining provifions without coming to an
anchor.
Captain Edwards, in the Pandora, paid a vifit almoft equally
tranfient to this ifland in the latter end of July 1791, in fearch after
tlie mutineers of the Bounty. He obtained provifions, but could
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. liii
get no water that was not brackifli. It was underflooA-that Fenou
had then lately died.
MefTrs. D'Entrecafteaux and Huon, in the French floops La
Recherche and L'Efperance, anchored at Tongataboo on the 3d of
March 1793, and were very hofpitably entertained. They ftaid a
week, but the detail of their vifit has not tranfpired.
No other European veffel is known to have touched at this ifland;
for the account given by the Europeans who were found here by the
Duff, cannot be depended upon. It is not improbable, that Ton-
o-ataboo might be vifited by the Spanifli navigators Malefpini and
Baftemente, who are faid to have difcovered in this neighbourhood
a o-roup of iflands, called the Babacos, about the fame time that the
French floops paffed by.
The intercourfe of Europeans at Tongataboo having been fo much
lefs frequent than at Otaheite, it was with fomcwhat lefs confidence
that a miffion was attempted at the former than at the la:tter place.
The refult will appear from the relation of the voyage, which
alfo throws light upon feveral circumftances, for which preceding
navigators could not account. The nature of the government of
this ifland is not yet wholly developed. Captain Cook was much
at a lofs refpedling it, and had fuppofed Fenou to be the fovereign,
till he became acquainted with Poulaho. When thcfe two perfonages
met, the miftake was immediately corredted : but the dignity and
power of the commander in chief, which feem, like the fovereignty,
to be hereditary, are fo great, that the apparent fuperiority of one
above the other muft depend in a confiderable degree upon the pcr-
fonal qualities of thofe who fill thefe Nations. Poulaho being dead,
his fon Futtafaihe fucceeded him in the fovereignty ; but he being a
voluptuous man, the government is chiefly conduded by Fenou
Tooo-ahoue, the prefent commander in chief, who is laid to be
nephew of the former. His fuperiority as a warrior and as a man of
bufinefs, gives a preponderance to his authority. The influence of
the royal family feems alfo to have been diminilhcd by a civil war.
liv PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
which Toogahoue had waged with fuccefs. The government here,
as at Otahfitc, is evidently in a great meafure ariftocratical ; but the
power of the chiefs is more dcfpotic at Tongataboo, although cx-
crcifed with Icfs outrage to private property. The officers of flate
here likcwife maintain a kind of general jurifdidlion : while at Ota-
heite every thing feems to be decided either by fuperior force, or by
arbitration in the feparate diftrifts ; and criminal punifhment is there
unknown, except in the feledlion of obnoxious charaders for occa-
fional facrifices. The latter fecm to be offered at Tongataboo much
lefs frequently, and only upon funereal occafions. Infant murders
are here unknown ; as well as infant fucceffion, and the fociety of
arreoes, which appear to be principal caufes of that horrid cuftom
in the Georgian iflands. The lafcivious pradlices which are almoft
univerfal there, feem to be ufually refl:rid:ed here to common profti-
tutes of the loweft clafs. Polygamy is eftablilhed, but adultery is
puniflied with death. The neceffity of cultivation, and the regard
paid to private property, have rendered the people of Tongataboo
more ingenious and induftrious : and being feldom at war, they
appear to be remarkably free, in general, from habits of fufpicion or
revenge. Their mufcular ftrength and activity are great ; although
in fize they are much exceeded by the chiefs of Otaheite, and of
fome other iflands. Intrepidity and dexterity are ftriking features of
their general character; and thefe qualities naturally render thofe
individuals who are the moft depraved, peculiarly mifchievous.
Tongataboo, confidered in jtfelf, is evidently defirable as the feat
of a miffion ; but its principal importance arifes from the extenfive
and intimate connexion that it has with other iflands. While mofl of
thofe which are difperfed over the Pacific Ocean are independent of
each other, Tongataboo is the centre of government to a furprifing
number. The natives named more than one hundred and fifty of
thefe when Captain Cook was laft there; but feveral are uninha-
bited, many of them very fmall, and fome were at that time in-
dependent of their government, and even hoflile to it. Only fifteen
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. Iv
of thefe are lofty, and few arc fo large as Tongataboo. Captain
Cook explored more than fixty of the whole number, and other na-
vigators have difcovered many of the remaining iflands of this group.
Xhe dired:ion in which it chiefly extends being north and fouth,
renders the communication each way pradticable during the trade
wind; and moft, if not all the iflands, are regularly vifited by the
fovereign or the commander in chief.
It remains to give fome account of other remarkable iflands, which
have been difcovered in this neighbourhood ; and firfl: of fuch as are
immediately fubjedl to Tongataboo.
The ifland of E5o a lies fouth-eafl: of Tongataboo, from whence it
is diflant nearly four leagues. Its form approaches to an oval, with
its longefl: diameter from north to fouth. Its eaftern fide is placed
by Captain Cook in 1 74° 40' weft longitude, and its fouthern ex-
tremity in latitude 21° 29'. It is about ten leagues in circuit, and
almoft as high as the Ifle of Wight, being perceptible from a diftancc
of twelve leagues at fea. The fouth-eailern coaft rifes immediately
from the fea with great inequalities j but on the north-weft part are
valleys, meadows, and plains, of confiderable extent. From that
quarter the ground afcends gradually to the higheft part, which then
continues nearly level. The foil on the heights is chiefly compofed
of a foft fandy ftone, but in other parts is ufually a reddifti
clay, of a great depth. A deep valley, which is two hundred
feet above the level of the fea, confifts almoft wholly of coral
rock, but is covered with trees. The cultivated plantations chiefly
border upon the coafts. There are fprings of fine water in various
parts of the ifland, but none of them are conveniently acceflible to
Ihipping. The beft anchorage was found upon the north-weft fide,
in latitude 21° 10' 30", on a gravelly bank extending two miles from
the land, with depths from twenty to thirty fathom. Abreaft of it
is a creek, which affords convenient landing for boats at all times of
the tide. In its produce and inhabitants this ifland refembles Ton-
Ivi PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
gataboo, except that it is not the ufual refidence of any of the fupe-
rior chiefs, although fcveral of them have property at Eooa. It has,
notwithftanding, greatly the advantage of Tongataboo, for pleafant-
nefs of fituation, as well as for goodnefs of frefh water; and appa-
rently mufl: exceed it in falubrity.
The ifland was difcovered by Tafman, who did not land there j
nor does it appear certain that any navigator befide Cook has been
upon it. He vifited Eooa in 1773, before he came to Tongataboo;
and in 1777, after he left that place. At both times he met with
the moft cordial reception, although he could not obtain the fame
profufion of fupplies that was lavifhed upon the Englilli by the
court of Tongataboo. A perfon named Taoofa, who exercifed the
principal authority, entertained them with a public fpedacle of
dancing, boxing, wreflling, &c. which, though upon a fmaller
fcale than at the feat of government, collecfted together a concourfe of
people, and was produdlive, as ufual, of fome diforderly condud:.
The peaceable and affedionate behaviour of the people, in general,
was fuch as to induce him to name thefe iflands, and the others
which he vifited in the fame group. The Friendly Iflands. To
the anchorage at Eooa he gave the name of Englilh road. He left
a ram and two ewes upon this ifland.
The third ifland of this group which requires our notice is Ana-
MOOKA. It is fituated in latitude 20° 15', 174° 31'' wefl longitude,
about eighteen leagues difl:ant from Tongataboo, which it refembles
in its afped:. Its form is triangular, and none of its fides ex-
ceeds the length of four miles. Its extent is alfo diminifhed by
a large fait lagoon, which almofl: cuts off its foufh-eaftern angle
from the reft. Its coafts are furrounded by fmall iflets, fand-banks,
and reefs. A harbour is formed by thefe on the fouth-weflern fide
of the ifland, with anchorage in ten and twelve fathom, the bottom
coral fand. It is well flickered, but no frefh water is to be obtained
near the fliore. On the north-wefl; fide are two coves, to which
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. Jvii
there are narrow paffages for boats through the reef. Jufl to the
"fouthward of thefe is a bank, free from rocks, with twenty and
twenty-five fathom depth, one or two miles from fhore. The coaft
rifes nearly perpendicular fifteen or twenty feet from the fea, and tlic
interior appears level, excepting fome fmall hillocks, arid a moifc
confiderablc one toward the centre of the ifland. It is fimilar ^o
Tongataboo in foil and produdlions, but is lefs cultivated, even in
proportion to its fizc. It is however better furnifhed with water,
there being a pond about three quarters of a mile from the landing-
place on the north-weft fide, of half a mile in circuit. The water is
a little brackifh, but having in part anfwered the purpofes of navi-
gators, their vifits to this ifland have been more frequent than to thofc
already mentioned j although the diftance from their fliips has ren-
dered watering hazardous as well as difficult.
Tafman anchored here on the 25th of January 1643, ^"^^ "^'^^
treated very kindly by the natives in general, and by a chief,
whofe prefence and authority probably rendered this vifit the more
tranquil. He gave to the ifland the name of Rotterdam, having
called the former two Amfterdam and Middleburg. Captain Cook
firft arrived at Anamooka on the 20th of June i -774 in the Refolution,
having loft the company of Captain Furneaux in the Adventure,
fubfequent to their vifit to Tongataboo the preceding year. He ap-
proached Anamooka from the fouth-eaftward, after having doubled
the low ifland^ and flioals lying in that direction, to the latitude
of 20° 25'. Thefts were more frequently committed here than
at the fouthernmoft iflands of the group ; the charadler of the wo-
men appeared alfo to be much more licentious, and that of the men
more daring. No farther mifchief than plunder was attempted, and
this was feverely punifhed by their European guefts. None of the
principal people were prefent to reftrain the unruly ; but fome of the
natives diftinguifhed themfelves by the goodnefs of their condudl,
and moft of them behaved well, except when peculiar temptation
inflamed their cupidity for the novelties of which their tifitors were
i
hui PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
pofllflcd. The chaftifement inflidcd upon the offenders cffedually
improved their hehaviour before the departure of the Ihip, which
took place on the 29th of June,
Captain Cook returned to this ifland in 1777, in company with
Captain Clcrke ; and anchored in the road on the ift of May.
A perfon called Toobou then refided as chief, and another, named
Taipa, who alfo aded as principal officer in Poulaho's family,
became very ferviccable. He introduced to them Fenou, who re-
fortcd hither from Tongataboo on being informed of their arrival.
This great man prevailed upon Captain Cook to fail to the iflands
called Hapae, in preference to the former, which he meant to have
immediately revifited. They accordingly proceeded to Hapae on the
14th of the fame month, by which time the two Ihips' companies
feemed nearly to have drained Anamooka of provifions ; but on re-
turning early in June, the flock was found furprifingly recruited*
Thefts had been pradtifed during their former ftay, in a private man-
ner, even by fome of the chiefs, till they were compelled to make
reftitution; and on the return of the veffels, when all the people of
rank were abfent, very little order was obfervcd. Poulaho and
Fenou arrived foon afterward, and within three days accompanied
the navigators toward Tongataboo.
Lieutenant Bligh, in the Bounty, anchored at Anamooka on the
23d of April 1789. The natives, who immediately came along-
lide with yams and cocoa-nuts in their canoes, did not offer to come
on board till they had aflced permiffion. The next day he was
vifited by Taipa, who was then old and lame, but retained the im-
preffion of his intercourfe with the Englifh twelve years before, in
Juch a degree that he perfedly underftood their pronunciation of
South-Sea words, which no other perfon there was able to do. He
informed them that their old principal friends were then living at
Tongataboo, and he offered a large houfe for the ufe of the Englifh,
fuppofing they would, as formerly, have had a party on fhore.
Several things that were flolen were reffored by his influence. Some
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSK. lix
more daring robberies being committed, and the natives crowding
in large canoes from the neii^hbouring iflands, Mr. Bligh thought
it neceffary, on the 26th, when the Ihip was under Tail, to confine
feveral of the chiefs, in order to recover what had been lolc. Tiiis
meafure producing no other effect than extreme diflrcfs in his pri-
foners, he difmiffed tiiem with prefcnts, and departed. Pine-apples,
which had been planted in the iflands viiited by Captain Cook,
were found here at that time in a flourifhing ftate.
Captain Edwards twice vifited Anamooka in 1791, having ap-
pointed this ifland for a place of rendezvous with the fchooner that
had attended him from Otaheite, but afterward loft company of the
Pandora. He firft anchored here on the 29th of June, and immediately
difpatched Lieutenant Hay ward to inquire at the iflands of Hapae and
Feje after Fletcher Chriftian and his party, but without fucceis, ex-
cepting in their traffic for provilions. The licentioufnefs of the women
at Anamooka feems to have been greatly promoted by European pro-
fligacy during this viilit ; and inftances of ferocity were manifcfted
by the native men, which had till then been unknown ; efpecially
in one cafe, where Lieutenant Corner narrowly efcaped being mur-
dered. They were, notwithftanding, very attentive to the inftrudiions
which the officers gave them on the cultivation of the exotic plants,
and tranfplanted the pine-apples immediately on receiving dire(5tions.
Poulaho and one of the Toobous, who had met Captain Edwards
at Anamooka, failed with him early in July to the neighbouring
ifland of Toofoa, whither they were going to colledl tribute. On
the 29th of that month he again anchored here, and being ftill
difappointed of intelligence about the fchooner, departed the 3d of
Auguft.
No fubfeqvient vifit to this ifland has been made known. The
detail already given is more than proportionate to the importance of
the place. It is ranked by the natives among the fmaller iflands of
their archipelago, which contains thirty-five hirger than this. A
difeafe of the leprous kind, which feems to be common to all the
i 2
Ix- PRELIMINARY 'DISCOURSE.
ifliinds of this occaft, is laid to prevail more at Anamooka than in
anv other part of this group. The venereal difeafe, which was
certainly introduced here by the Englifli, has alfo probably made a
dreadful progrefs, in confequencc of the unreftrained debauchery
pradifed by its lafl vifitors, who are acknowledged to have been
greatly infeded when they arrived at this place from Otaheite. Wood
being an article procured here by all the fliips, it is neceflary to
mention the damage that has been incurred in cutting a tree, called
faitanoo by the natives, which is a fpecies of pepper, and yields a
milky juice that injures the eyes and fkin of the workmen.
The ifland mentioned above, named Toofoa, is fituated N.N.W.
from Anamooka, at a diftance of t.en leagues : it is obfervable from
thence by means of its height, and of a volcano at its fummit,
which almofl: conftantly emitted fmoke, and fometimes threw up
ftones. Its fhores are fteep, and covered with black fand. The rocks
are hollow, and in fome places of a columnar form. The mountain,
except in fpots that appear to have been recently burned, is covered
with verdure, Ihrubs, and trees. The coaft is about five leagues in
circuit. To the north-eaft end of this ifland,' and only two miles
diftant, is another of much lefs extent, but of thrice its' height,
which is called Kao : it is a mountainous rock, of a conical form.
Both thefe were difcovered by Tafman, and have been feen by every
fubfequent navigator of this group. Captain Cook pafled between
them, and had no foundings in the channel by which they are fe-
parated. Each ifland was underflood to be inhabited, but no Eu-
ropean had landed upon either, at the time when the mutiny fuddenly
occurred in the Bounty, two days after the departure of that veffel from
Anamooka. Lieutenant Bligh was forced into a boat, with eighteen
of his. people, when ten leagues fouth-weft from Toofoa. Heat-
tempted, therefore, to get an immediate fupply of bread-fruit and
water at that ifland, which, as he underflood, afforded thofe articles.
The next morning, 28th April 1789, they landed in a cove on the
north- weft coaft, in latitude 19° 41'. They climbed the heights.
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE, 1x1
but obtained only feme cocoa-nuts and plantains, and a few gallons
of water from holes in the rocks. The weather bein? too boiflcrous
to proceed, they (heltered themfclves by night in an adjacent cave.
On the I ft of May feveral of the inhabitants brotight them a fmall
fupply, and retired peaceably in the evening. The next day their num-
ber greatly increafed. Some principal perfons alfocame round the north
fide of the ifland in canoes, and among them one of the chiefs whom
Lieutenant Bligh had threatened to carry from Anamooka, upon an
occafion which has already been mentioned. They offered to ac-
company him to Tongataboo when the weather ftiould moderate; but
fome fymptoms appearing of a defign to obtain by force the articles
that he could not afford to barter with them, he determined to depart
that evening, as they were not inclined to retire. They had pre-
vioufly fold him fome of their weapons, and they now allowed his
people to carry their property into the boat ; but they would not
fuffer him to embark, and a conteft enfued, in which moft of the
Englifh were wounded by ftones, and one of them was killed. The
reft efcaped, and bore away toward New Holland ; from whence
they reached the Eaft Indies in their boat, enduring extreme hard-
fhip, but no farther lofs of lives.
This unhappy event furnifhes the only inftance of an European
being killed at any ifland of this group, notwithftanding the feverity,
and even the cruelty, which has frequently been exercifed toward the
natives, on account of the thefts committed by them. That their
eagernefs to obtain our property is fuch as to endanger a fmall party
landing at any of the lefs civilized iflands, is evident, not only from
Captain Bligh's experience, but alfo from that of a few people
on board the fchooner which had accompanied the Pandora from
Otaheite. After parting company, as before mentioned, flie unfor-
tunately came to Toofoa inftead of Anamooka, where Cap tin Edwards
probably was at the very time. They obtained fome water and
provifions from the natives ; but the latter attempted to feize the
vefTel, in which there were only nine people. Thefe, however, being
Ixii PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
amply provided with fire-arms, fuccefsfully refifted the aflault of
numbers vaftly fuperior. Few days could apparently have elapfed
after this occurrence, when the Pandora arrived at Toofoa with
Poulaho on board. Lieutenant Hay ward, who had been there with
Bli<;h, rccolleded fome of their former affailants. They fhunned his
notice, and had perhaps more reafon for doing fo than he knew, as
at that time he received no intelligence of the fchooner.
Hapae (fometimes pronounced Habei) has been mentioned as
the place to which Captain Cook accompanied Fenou and Taipa at
the dcfire of the former, from Anamooka in May 1777. It is
reckoned by the natives as one of the more extenfive iflands of their
group, but it confifts of four or more low iflets, fix or feven miles
each in length, which are joined together by a reef. They are not
more than two or three miles broad. That iflet which is mofl culti-
vated is called Lefooga, or Lefooka ; and this alone exceeds Anamooka
in the number and extent of its plantations. At its fouth-weftern end
is an artificial mount fifty feet in diameter at the fummit, which is
raifed to the height of forty feet above the reft of the ground. The
Refolution and Difcovery anchored abreaft of the reef that connects
this ifland with another to the north-eaft which is called Foa, in
twenty-four fathom, with a bottom of coral fand. A creek in the
(hore of Lefooga, three quarters of a mile from the flaips, afforded
convenient landing at all times. Proper meafures having been taken
by Fenou and Taipa, an abundant fupply of provifions was obtained,
and public diverfions were fplendidly exhibited ; but thefe chiefs were
lefs careful to prevent the theft of European articles. They left Captain
Cook on the 22d of the fame month, requefting him to wait till
they returned from Vavou, which they reprefented to be two days
fail in their canoes to the northward of Hapae. Finding it diffidult
to obtain fupplies in their abfence, he removed on the 26th, fouth-
ward of Letooga, and fearched in vain for a channel between the
low iflands. That which lies next to Lefooga, in this diredlion, is
called Hoolfieva, and is deftitute of cultivation, being ufed only for
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. Ixiii
fifhing and catching turtle ; but an artificial mount, fimilar to that in
Lefooga, was obferved upon it. Pouhxho met the fliips before their
departure, and accompanied them on the 29th, in their paflagc among
the fmall iflands and reefs, which obftrud the navigation between
Hapae and Anamooka.
Fran. Ant. Maurelle, a Spanifli difcoverer, was entangled in the fame
navigation in March 1781, after having been very hofpitably enter-
tained at fome iflands immediately to the northward of Hapae. He found
a paflage with a depth of five fathom, between the latter and the iflands
to the weftward of it, which had been miffed by Captain Cook.
Meeting with frefli obfl:acles among thofe iflands which lie diredlly
north of Anamooka, he bore away toward Kao and Toofoa, Wlyle
amidft the iflands, he trafficked ■tvith the natives, who came off" to
the fhip in their canoes. A perfon who was faid to be the chief over
forty-eight iflands, alfo came on board after fending prefents. He
promifed the fame public diverfions and contributions with which
the Englifli had been entertained, to induce Maurelle to land.. The
mofl fouthern point of the ifland, where this man is faid to have
refided, is placed in the latitude of 1 9" 39'. The longitudes afTigned
by Maurelle are feveral degrees too far to the weflward. He did
not fufped the iflands which he named Galvez, Gran Montana,
and San Chrifloval, to be thofe called by the natives Hapae, Kao,
and Toofoa ; and he left Anamooka and Tongataboo out of fight to
the eaflward, but faw the two fmall rocky iflands, Hoonga Tonga
and Hoonga Hapae, in latitude 20° 32',, and named them Las
Culebras. He difcovered a dangerous reef, extending two leagues,
and leaving to the fouthward a channel, three leagues wide, be-
tween the reef and thofe iflands. He alfo faw the high uninh.ibited
fpot, difcovered and named Pylflaarts ifland by Tafman, in kititude
22° 22', 175° 59^ weft longitude. This he called La Sola;
An ifland, lying in the latitude of 17° 57', 175' 16'' 54" well lon-
gitude, was the firfl that Maurelle difcovered in approaching the
Friendly Iflands. He fell in with it 26th February 17B1, and named
Klv PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
it Amargura (Bitterncfs), on account of his fevere difappoint-
mcnt of obtaining rcfrefhments from it, no landing-place being found
even for boats, and the ifland itfelf having a Angular appearance of
harrcnncfs. Upon a confiderable mountain within it, not a tree was
to be fecn. In July 1791 Captain Edwards coafted the north-wefl
fide of this ifland, and obrerved the appearance of a tolerable landing-
place in that quarter. That part of the coaft was flat table land,
u'ithout eminence or indentation, and from the edge of the fur-
face fmoke iffued along its whole extent. He called it Gardner's
ifland.
An ifland called by the natives Lattai, in latitude 18° 47' 20''^
174" 48' weft longitude, was difcovered by Maurelle the day after he
had pafled the form.er. It confifts chiefly of a vaft conical moun-
tain, the fummit of which appeared to be burnt, but the fides were
covered with trees j and it is furrounded with a lower border, which
is very fertile, and affords frefh water. Many canoes came off, and
the people in them, among whom was the chief of the ifland, behaved
with much confidence and kindnefs, and fold cocoa-nuts and bananas
to the Spaniards. Captain Edwards gave this place the name of
Bickerton's ifland.
Maurelle proceeded toward fome iflands fifteen leagues diftant,
and lying eaft-north-eaft from the preceding; the appearance of
which promifed better anchorage, as well as more abundant re-
frefliments. He was prevented by the wind from reaching them till
the 4th of March, when, after pafling between fome fmaller elevated
•iflands on the north- weft of the principal land, he anchored in a
creek bordered with houfes and plantations. In approaching this
ftation, the fliip had every day been furrounded by numerous canoes,
laden with all kinds of provifions, in exchange for which the iflanders
wanted to have tools, but obtained only clothing, Maurelle having
ftrangely prohibited the fale of iron. The natives were in general
tall and robuft. The chief, named Toobou, to whom they paid the
moft profound refpedl, was advanced in age, and very corpulent.
PRELIMINARr DISCOURSE. Ixv
He treated Maurelle with the fame profiife hofpitality that Cook had
experienced at the more fouthern illands. Water was not, however, to
be obtained fufficiently nigh at hand, and that which oozed into a pit
dug by the Spaniards proved too brackifh to be ufed. Maurelle there-
fore removed to a bay two leagues from the former, and in doing fo
loil: two anchors. Here the (hip was perfcdlly flieltcred, and good
water was obtained clofc to the fliore. The Spaniards were enter-
tained with the ufual public diverfions, and being always on their
guard, the intercourfe on Ihorc was not interrupted by any contefl;
but the iflanders who canie on board ftole every thing they could
feizc. They tore away the chain of the rudder ; and after another had
been fubflituted, one of the natives was fliot dead in attempting to
take that alfo. Maurelle filled i 9th March, through a channel to the
fouth-well:, which, as well as that by which he entered, was found
to be perfeftly commodious. He places his anchorage in latitude
18° 36'', and he called it El Refugio, or the Refuge.
The largeft of thefe iflands is nearly equal in extent to Tongataboo,
mnd confidcrably higher, although not mountainous. It is highly
fertile, and well cultivated, producing the fame fruits and roots as elfe-
where in thefe latitudes, and abounding more with the cloth-plant than
any of tl^e Friendly Iflands. Maurelle named this group after Don
Martin de Mayorga, then viceroy of Mexico; and gives no inti-
mation of the names ufed by the inhabitants.
Peroufe, who, in 1787, approached all the iflands laft dcfcribed,
but had no intercourfe with the natives, takes it for granted that
they conftitute the country called by Cook Vavaoo, but pronounced
Vavou by the Friendly iflanders, and already fpoken of as lying at
the diftance of two days fiil from Hapae. But this fpace, according
to Captain Cook's calculation, muft exceed two hundred miles, which
is more than double the diftancc between Hapae and the iflands ot
Mayorga. Captain Edwards alfo explored this clufter in July 1791 ,
nammg it Howe's iflands, and the anchorage Curtis's found. The
lliip was vifited by two pcrfons, called Futtafaihc and Toobou.
k
Ixvi PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
Captain Bligh, in the Providence, accompanied by Captain Portlock,
in the Affiftance, when returning with the bread-fruit from Otaheite,
laid to during the night, 3d Augufl: 1792, off thefe iflands, and
obtained provifions, but did not land. Two Ihips, which Maiirelle
underftood to have been here prior to his voyage, might be thofe of
Cook and Clerke, which the natives had probably feen at Hapae. By
whatever name thefe iflands ought to be diftinguiflied, they prefent a
favourable and a confiderable objed: for the attention of our miflionaries.
The longitude affigned to them by Captain Edwards is 173^ 53' weft.
Neootabootaboo and Kootahe are feparated by a channel
only three miles broad, in which is a fmall ifland ; and are fituated in
latitude 15° 55^ 173° 48' weft longitude. The former is the more ex-
tenfive, and is reckoned among the larger of the Friendly Iflands. It
is chiefly low, but has a confiderable hill in its centre. It is divided
into two unequal parts by a channel, which, at the mouth, is threa
hundred yards wide. Kootahe is very lofty, of a conical form.,
between two and three miles in diameter, and lies north-eafl: from the
former. Both are populous, fertile, and poflTeffed of the fame animals
and vegetables as the iflands before defcribed. They were difcovered
by Schouten and Lemaire, loth May 1616. Their fliip anchored on
the north-weft fide of Kootahe, half a mile from the fliore^ in fandy
ground, with twenty-five fathom ; but they fent a boat to the larger
ifland to fearch for a better ftation. The natives fwam around the fliipi
and bartered cocoa-nuts in abundance for nails and beads ; but they
endeavoured to feize the boat, and one of them was fliot before
they defifl:ed from the attempt. The chief of Neootabootaboo, who
had the title of Latoo, came on board ; and having invited the Dutch
to that ifland, they were proceeding thither, when a thoufand of
the natives fuddcniy attacked the Ihip from their canoes, but were
tepulfed with much havoc by the cannon loaded with muflcet-balls..
Schouten departed on the 1 3th of the fame month. He gave the names
of Traitors* and Cocoa iflands to thefe difcoveries, in confequence
of the reception he met with. Captain Wallis fell in with them
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. Ixvii
13th Augiift 1767, and called them Keppel's and Bofcawcn's iflands.
His boat's crew examined Neootabootaboo, and found a place for
anchoring and landing, with frefli water, but inconveniently lituatcd.
Captain Wallis exchanged fome nails for fowls, fruits, and one of
their clubs, and proceeded the next day to the wcllward. The nails
were in Poulaho's poffefTion at Tongataboo, when Cook was there with
him. Peroufe faw Kootahe 20th December 1787, and having the
next day examined both the iflands, laid to on the following, in a fandy
bay upon the weft coaft of the larger divifion of Neootabootaboo.
The natives brought off the fineft cocoa-nuts he had ever feen, with
other vegetables, as well as fome fowls and a hog : they difcovcred
no apprehenfion, and traded very freely. They refembled the more
fouthern iflanders in every thing, except that their looks indicated a
ferocity, like that which characterizes their northern neighbours.
The French did not fuffer them to come on board, but puniflied the
moft trifling thefts with feverity ; having been recently exafperated by
the murder of Captain de L 'Angle and eleven more perfons, at one
of the Navigators' iflands, which lie to the northward of thefe. A
rocky bank, two or three leagues north of Kootahe, was found in
1 61 6, with fourteen fathom water upon it.
An ifland was difcovered by Schouten and Lemairc the day after
they left the preceding, which they reckoned to be thirty Dutch
leagues more to the weft ward. They judged it to be nearly of
circular form, and about two leagues from north to fouth ; but they
exprefs fome uncertainty as to its extent. It is hilly, and covered
with verdure, abounding with cocoa-nut trees, and populous. A
large village laid clofe to the fliore. They called it Hope ifland,
from the profpedl it afforded them of obtaining refreflimcnts. Of
thefe they were neverthelefs dilappointcd, not being able to land for
the furf, which every where broke upon the coaft. Sending a boat
to found, they found from twenty to forty fathoms, two or three
hundred yards from fliore, with rocky bottom ; but there were no
foundings a little further out. The natives adlcd as at Kootahe, and
k 2
Jxviii PRELIMINARY DISCOLiRSE.
fcveral of them were killed for attcnipting to fcize the boat. They
brought off vegetables only. The Dutch proceeded the fame day to
the ^veftward.
Captain Edwards fell in with this ifland 5th Aiigufl: i 791 , wlien he
apparently meant to have vifited the former two, but was carried too
much to leeward. He places it in latitude 15° 53', 175° 51'' weft
longitude. In the account of his voyage, it is fpoken of as having
eonfiderable extent, and the houfes as being of much larger conftrudtion
than at other iflands of this archipelago. He named it Proby's ifland,
but underftood that the natives called it Onoo-afou.
This name, and the diftance of this ifland from Hapae, accord
with the dcfcription given to Cook, of the Vavou of the Friendly
iflanders ; to which their term for an inhabited country, Wanoo, may
have been prefixed by the natives, as it is to the names of feveral
iflands in this ocean. Computing the extent of the ifland by its
proportionate diftance from Kootahe, it miifl: be nine or ten Englifh
miles in diameter, according to Lemaire's fl:atemcnt. Poulaho aflerted
that it affords as good anchorage as Tongataboo, and that it is
larger, and has feveral ftreams of frefh water. Vavou is in high
tftimation among the Friendly iflanders; and was, in 1777, the
refidence of Latoo-libooloo's mother and fifter. A folemn mourning
was alfo then celebrated at Tongataboo for a chief who had lately died
at Vavou.
Two more iflands were difcovered by Schouten and Lemaire, the
fifth day after leaving that laft defcribed. They deftroyed fome of
the natives at their firft interview, but were afterward hofpitably
entertained by them, and procured every kind of refrefhment in
great abundance. They were vifited by a perfon bearing the title
of Latoo, and by another flyled Areekee, who was therefore probably
the fovereign of all the Friendly Iflands. He was treated by the
other natives with the iitmofl deference. They are reprefented like
thofe of the more fouthern iflands in moft circumflances, except
in being deftitute of clothing, and the females being deformed, and
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. Ixix
peculiarly immodcfl. The ifiands arc hilly, fertile, and popu-
lous. The extent of them is not defcribed. The fliip anchored in
a narrow roadftead, on the fouthern fide of the principal ifland, two
or three hundred yards from a flream of frefh water, in a depth of
ten fathoms, with fmdy bottom. Clofc on the outfide of the lliip
was a bank, dry at low water. They place this anchorage in the
latitude of 14° 56' fouth. The iflands were named Hoorn, after the
Dutch port, where the vcfTcl had been equipped; and the road was
called Concord, after the fliip's name.
If the Hope ifland of Schouten be Vavou, there feems little room
to doubt that Hoorn iflands are the country called Hamoa by the
Friendly iflanders, who defcribe it as being two days {nW from Va-
vou, to the northward of weft, and agreeing in other refped:s with
Schouten's Hoorn iflands. They do not appear to have been vifitcd
by any other navigator, except we may conceive them to be the two-
iflands where Maurelle obtained refrefhments the 21ft and 22d of
April 1781 ; which, therefore, he named Confolation Iflands. The
figure and afped: of thofe defcribed by him, and by Schouten and
Lemaire, perfeftly accord. Maurelle does not give the latitude in his
jiarrative. That upon his chart diflfers from Schouten's by more than
half a degree; but an error of that amount is not unlikely to have
occurred in Maurelle's reckoning. No other difcovcry corrcfponds
with his, any more than with Schouten's iflands.
Hamoa is reprefented by the natives of Tongataboo as the largefl:
ifland of their archipelago ; and Poulaho, who had frequently
refided upon it, faid that it furniflied good water and abundant re-
frefhments, and afforded harbour for fhips.
The preceding account includes all the iflands hitherto difcovered
which have ufually been united under the fame government.. There
are two more groups, containing countries of greater extent than any
yet defcribed, with which the Friendly iflanders are known to have
communication. To thefe, alfo, our miffionaries may therefore be
hex PRELIiMINARY DISCOURSE.
able, throuf'h fhc Lord's blcflino:, to extend their labours from Ton-
gataboo.
The very confiderable cliifter, of which either the whole, or fome
part, is called by the natives, Fejb, lies within three days iiiil in a
canoe from that ifland. The more northern part of this numerous
group was difcovered by Tafman 6th February 1 643, Thefe iflands
and reefs are evidently the fame that were explored by the Duff, and
amidft which Ihe met with the greatefl danger that attended her
voyage. They were named by Tafman Prince William's Ifles, and
Heemlkirk's (hoals. They reach northward to the latitude of 15° 2,3''
Captain Bligh fell in with the eaflernmofl: of thefe iflands, in 178"
weft longitude, the third day after his efcape from Toofoa in the
Bounty's laimch j and he pafled through the midft of them in a north-
weftern courfe, which he could not have made in a fliip, there being
only four feet depth of water on one of the reefs which he croffed.
In this diredlion, he found the group to extend four degrees weftward
from the firft iflands ; and he faw feveral that had from thirty to forty
leagues of coafl:, and appeared fertile, being pleafingly variegated with
hills and valleys. His defencelefs fituation obliged him to avoid
intercourfe with the inhabitants. On his return from Otaheite in the
Providence, 5th Augufl: 1 792, he paflTed to the north of the firll iflands
he had difcovered in 1789, and coafl:ed, upon the fouth fide, fome of
thofe which had been difcovered by Tafman. After having croflTed
his former track, he doubled the fouthernmoft ifland of the group,
in latitude 19° 15', 178° ^^z/? longitude, and proceeded, nth Augufl:,
on his voyage, in a courfe to the northward of wefl:. He landed no
where, and the iflanders in vain attempted to overtake the fliip with
their canoes, apparently with hoft^le defigns.
The mofl: wefl:ern part of this group was difcovered by Captain
Barber, in the fnow Arthur, 26th April 1794, on his paflage from
Port Jackfon to the north- wefl: coaft of America. He faw fix of the
iflands, the largefl: of w^hich he places in latitude 17° 30', 175° i^
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. Ixsi
eaft longitude. He anchored in a bay on its wcftc.-n fide, and fomc
natives who came off in a canoe were reludlant to come on board, and
feemed to be unaccuflomed to trade. The next day a number of canoes
attacked the fliip, and two of the crew were wounded by them with
arrows. The favages attempted to board, but were repulfcd with the
fliip's fwivels and fmall arms. The navigation on this, as on every
other fide of the group, was found to be intricate and dangerous.
It is uncertain whether thefe numerous and extcnlive illands arc
connedted together under a diftind: government, or whether they are
independent of each other, or mofHy fubjcd: toTongataboo. It is certain
that at leaft fome of the principal iflands have been independent of its
government, and occafionally hoftile to it. They are alfo of a diftincft
race, fpeak a different language, and, befide fpears and clubs, make
ufe of bows and arrows in battle. In this they refemble mofl: of
the iflanders who inhabit the larger countries to the weflward ; and
differ from all who have yet been difcovered to the eaflward of this
group. Many of the latter have bows and arrows, but they ufe
them, as we do, only in fport ; their miffile weapons in war being no
other than fpears and flones. The intercourfe of Feje with Tonga-
taboo does not feem to have lafted many generations, but during the
prefent century it has been frequent. The Friendly iflanders regarded
the people of Feje as fuperior to themfelves, both in military prowefs,
and in mechanical ingenuity ; their weapons and clothing being
wrought in a more mafterly ftyle, and fome manufadiures, efpccially
that of earthen veffels, being carried on at Feje, which are not at-,
tempted at Tongataboo. There alfo were dogs at Feje when there
were none at the Friendly Iflands, but they have been imported from
thence fince the latter group became known to the Englifli. The fla,-
ture of the Fejeans is fuperior, their complexions are darker, and their
hair approaches to wool. They, moreover, retain the pradice of eating
the bodies of enemies whom they have killed, which is now abhorred
by all of the lighter race, except the inhabitants of New Zealand, .
Ixxii. PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
It is probable that the Fejcans are of the fiimc race that oc-
cupies the niofl: extenfive iflands in this ocean-. Their prevailing-
ferocity renders the more weftern countries very dangerous of accefs ;
but it may be hoped, that the fuperior civilization of Fejc, and its
intcrcourfc with Tongataboo, to which it appears that at leaft fome
part of this group has lately been fubjeded, may afford a favourable
introdudion of our miffionaries among a nation of great extent, and
in the utmofl: need of evangelical inftrudion. The only Euro-
peans who are known to have landed at Feje, are Lieutenant
Hay ward, and a man who attended him thither, in a large canoe
hired at Anamooka, for the purpofe of fearching after Fletcher
Chriftian. Their inquiry was fruitlefs, but feems to have been con-
duced without danger.
The other group which has intercourfe w'ith the Friendly
Iflands, is that which was named by M. de Bougainville the Na-
vigators' Iflands. Thele are only ten in number, but fome
of them are remarkable for their extent, fertility, and popula-
tion. They are fituated between 169° and 172° 30' weft longitude,
and from latitude 13^ 25', to an uncertain extent fouthward.
They are all lofty, like the Society Iflands, but are neither fur-
rounded with a low border, nor enclofed by reefs. The eafternmoft
iflands of the clufter feem to have been firft difcovered by Roggewein
and Bauman in 1722. Another, of fuperior magnitude, was added by
Bougainville in 1768; and the two wefl:ernmoft iflands, which are
the mofl; confiderable, were difcovered by Peroufe in 1787. Each of
the latter is more than forty miles in length. All thefe were vifited
by Captain Edwards in 1791. Peroufe was informed of three more
to the fouthward, named Sheka, Ofl&mo, and Oocra, which he could
not fill in with. The native names afligncd to the principal iflands
by the two navigators, Peroufe and Edwards, totally differ in every
inftance. Pol a and Otewhei are thofe which they rcfpedivcly
give to the moft wefliern ifland of the group; Oyolava and Oh a-
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. Ixxiii
TOO A to the next confiderable ifland; Ma-oona and Otutuela,
to that which Bougainville difcovered ; Opoon andTooMANUA,
to the eafternmoft ifland. The name of Tootoocla, which is afligned
by the people of Tongataboo to one of the larger iflands known to
them, agrees with the information received by Captain Edwards. It
is notwithftanding difficult to conceive, how Peroufe miflook the
name of the very ifland, where the aflfafllnation of the French navi-
gators, already mentioned, was perpetrated in December 1787.
Some remains of their clothing were feen there by the Pandora's
people in July 1791. At Otewhei the latter met with a perfon
related to Fenou, commander in chief of the Friendly Iflands.
He had lately had a finger cut off on account of the illnefs which
ilTued in the death of that chief. This circumfl:ance demonftrates
that fome intercourfe fubfiflis between thefe two groups. The
inhabitants of both have the fame language, and the fame gene-
ral cuflioms, that are common to all the eaftern iflands of this
ocean. The natives of the Navigators' Iflands greatly exceed the
Friendly iflanders in fl:ature and flrrength, and are marked by a
ferocity of afped; and manners unknown at Tongataboo. In fome
particular cuflioms they appear alfo to differ confiderably. It is im-
probable that they fhould be fubjedt to Tongataboo; but the ac-
quaintance they have with its inhabitants may render this important
group acceflible with fafety to our brethren, in company with fome of
the Friendly Ifland chiefs, by whom they are already highly eflecmcd.
Ohlttahoo, and other JJlands of the Group called the Marquefas,
THIS group is known to extend from Si" to lof of latitude, and
from i38|"to i40i<' of weft longitude. The inhabited iflands, which
have been difcovered in it, are eight in number. They refemble the
Navigators' Iflands in their afpedl and their coafts. In moft, if not
in all of them, there are bays or coves which afford harbour for
Jlaipping; but acccfs to them is often madediflicult by fudden fqualls
1
Ixxiv PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
of wind which break over the mountains and precipices. The natives-
exceed, in general beauty, thofe of the groups aheady defcribed;
efpccially the females, who are not disfigured by pundures, although
the men are almoft entirely covered with thofe marks. The women
appear to be in greater and more general fubjediion at the Marquefas
than elfewhere. Both fexes are inferior in perfonal cleanlinefs to
the natives of Otaheite and Tongataboo, having lefs convenience for
bathing. They ufe lefs clothing; and the chiefs are lefs diftin-
guifhed from their fubjedls, except by the profufion of ornaments
with which they are fometimes covered. The foil of thefe iflands,
for the greater part, is not fo fertile as in any of the preceding
groups ; but the inhabitants are, probably in confequence of this
deficiency, more ad:ive and vigorous than thofe of Otaheite. The
bread-fruit attains here to the higheft perfedlion ; but when it is out
of feafon the want of it is feverely felt, at leaft at Ohittahoo, where
articles of food to be fubftituted for it are fcarce. The Marquefans
refemble the Friendly iflanders in paying a greater deference to age
than the Otahciteans, and in being exempt from the pracftice of infant
murders, and other evils produced by the arreoe fociety,
Ohittahoo, which was fele6ted out of the group to be a mif-
fionary flation becaufe it was beil: known to Europeans, is much
inferior in extent to fome of the neighbouring iflands, being only
nine miles long from north to fouth, and about feven leagues in cir-
cuit. A narrow ridge of lofty hills runs through its whole length, and
is joined by other ridges, which gradually rife from the cliffs upon
the coafts. They are divided by deep, narrow, and fertile valleys,
adorned with trees, and watered by brooks and cafcades. On the
weftern fide are feveral coves. That in which Europeans have ufually
anchored, is fituated under the higheft land in the country, in latitude
9° 55' 30'', 1 39° 8' 40" weft longitude. It bears fouth 1 5° eaft from
the weft end of a larger adjacent ifland, called Ohevahoa. The
points that form the harbour (of which that to the fouthward is the
higheft) are about a mile afunder, and their diftance from the head
of the harbour not much lefs. The depth of water is from thirty-
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. Ixxv
four to twelve fathoms, and the bottom dean fand. Two fandy
coves within the bay are fcparated by a rocky point ; and each has a
rivulet and habitations in it. That on the northern beach bears the
fame name with the ifland ; the other, which is nearly concealed
among the trees, is called Innamci.
Alvaro Mendana de Neyra difcovered this ifland and the three
which lie neareft to it, in July 1595. He named them Las Mar-
quesas de Mendo^a, in honour of Mendo9a, Marquis of Canete,
then viceroy of Peru, who had difpatched Mendana from thence, with
four fliips, for the purpofe of occupying the iflands of Solomon, which
had been difcovered by the fame navigator twenty-eight years before.
Being very uncertain of the diflance of thofe iflands from Peru, he was
proceeding in their latitude to fearch for them, when he difcovered the
fouthernmoft ifland of the Marquefas. On the 25th July he fent a
boat to examine Ohittahoo, which he called Santa Chriflina, and
having found the harbour already defcribed, he named it Port Madre
deDios. Manriquez, who commanded the boat, landed, and marched
with twenty foldiers, by beat of drum, round the northern village;
but the inhabitants did not ftir from their houfes till the party halted,
and called to them; when about three hundred men and women
peaceably advanced. At the requefl: of the Spaniards they brought
feveral kinds of fruit, and fome water contained in cocoa-nut fliells.
The women, upon invitation, fat down among the foldiers ; but the
men were ordered to keep at a diftance, and to fetch more water in
fome jars which had been brought in the boat. They feemed dif-
pofed to keep the jars ; upon which Manriquez brutally fired amongfi:
them, and broke off their communication for that time. On the 28th,
Mendana brought his fquadron to anchor in the harbour ; and mafs
being performed on fliore, the natives filently attended to the cere-
mony. After taking formal pofleflion of the country in the name
of the King of Spain, he endeavoured to efliablifli a friendly inter-
courfe with the people, and fowed Indian corn in their prefencc.
When he returned on board, he left the command of the party on
1 a
Ixxvl PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
fhorc to Miinriquez, and a quarrel again foon took place; one of
the foldicrs was wounded by a fpear, and many of the natives were
killed by the fire-arms, with which they were purfucd while retreat-
ing with their women and children to the woods. From thence they
vainly attempted to annoy the invaders with lances and ftones, and after
fomedays they made overtures of fubmiffion, and brought prefents of
fruit to the guards which had been placed at the principal avenues.
A familiar intercourfe being renewed, fome of the iflanders and
Spaniards formed particular friendfliips ; and a man who became
intimate with Mendana's chaplain, went on board with him, dif-
covered great docility, and feemed diftrefled when they departed.
Having refitted one of his vefTels, and erected fome crofles on the
ihore, Mendana failed 5th July ; but terminated his voyage without
accompliflaing its objedt, and died at an ifland which he difcovered
55" to the weftward of Ohittahoo,
It does not appear that the Marquefas were again vifited by Euro-
peans till 1774, when Captain Cook went in fearch of thefe illands,
in order to afcertain their longitude. After meeting with fome danger,
in attempting to turn into the harbour of Madre de Dios, he an-
chored there 6th April. Several canoes had followed the fhip as fhe
pafled the fmall harbours on the fame coaft to the northward, and
others came off from fliore as foon as fhe was anchored, A heap of
ftones was provided in each canoe ; but the iflanders finding their
vifitors peaceable, bartered with them in an amicable manner. This
intercourfe was renewed more abundantly the following day, but
they betrayed the fame propenfity to theft which every where pre-
vails in the Pacific Ocean ; and one of them having feized and got
off with an iron flanchion, was haftily fhot through the head by an
officer on board the Refolution. Hete-hete, who was then in the
Ihip, fhed tears at feeing this ad: of barbarity ; and Captain Cook
took much pains to reflore the familiarity which had been interrupted
by it. The iflanders affcmbled on fhore, armed with fpears and clubs,
and drew up under fome rocks on the north fide of the harbour.
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. Ixxvii
Cook went to meet them with a party under arms ; and Hetc-hcte
having explained to them the wiflies of the Englifli, the natives
appeared fatisfied, and condudtcd them to a brook, where water was
obtained for the (hip. A brifk trade for vegetables was carried on,
and fomc hogs were purchafed. The prefcnce of Cook was, how-
ever, found necelTary to prefcrve the confidence of the natives, who
adted precifely as if the condiid: of the Spaniards, almoft two cen-
turies before, had been frefli in their remembrance. The women
had been removed from this harbour, but feveral were met with at
one to the fouthward of it, who difcovered no rcludlance to the li-
centious familiarities of the failors. Hete-hete was foon able to con-
verfe fluently with the natives, whofe dialed: differs from that of
Otaheite chiefly in not admitting the found of r, and in having, like
the Friend! V illanders, the hard confonants unknown at the other
group. They paid great attention to the information which he gave
them of cufl:oms in which his countrymen differed from them, and
efpecially of the mode of producing fire by the fridlion of dry wood.
A chief, named H5noo, and difl:inguiflied by the title of Heka-ae,
came with many attendants to the landing-place, and exchanged pre-
fents v/ith Captain Cook ; but could not be perfuaded to accompany
him on board. He was decorated with a great variety of orna-
ments, and wore a cloak, while the reft of the men had only the
maro round their loins. His looks and manner indicated much
good-nature and intelligence. The fupplies of provifions feemed to
increafe in confequence of his vifit, and no farther conteft occurred ;
fome thefts, which were committed, being fuffered by Captain Cook
to pafs unnoticed, as his ftay was defigned to be fliort. He failed on
the I ith April.
A French navigator, named Le Marchand, vifited the- Marqucflis
about the year 1789. Several veffcls, chiefly American, engaged in
the fur trade, have alfo fince touched here for provifions ; and the
commander of one of them, named Roberts, built a fmall veffel at
Port Madre de Dios, with which he proceeded to the north-weft
Ixxviii PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
coaft of America. It is reported that the people of Ohittahoo had
pcrfcvered in the prudent meafure of keeping their women at a diftancc
from European vifitors ; and that, at this feafon, a conteft was excited
on the account, in which the rcfpeftable chief, Honoo, was killed
by liis brutal guefts. This circumftance, which there is but too
much reafon to believe, may account for the very different condudt
obferved relative to the females of Ohittahoo, in fubfequent vifits at
this place.
The Daidalus ftorefliip touched at this ifland on her way from
England to join Captain Vancouver, and anchored in Port Madre de
Dios, 22d March 1792, in twenty-four fathom. Not being fuffi-
ciently Iheltered from the land wind, her cable parted early the next
morning ; and while driving out of the bay, the fliip was found to
be on fire. In cxtinguifhing it, many pieces of rotten bedding were
thrown overboard, and the natives crowded round the fhip to pick
them up. When the Daedalus regained her ftation, and had been
anchored clofer in fhore, it was obferved that the buoy of the anchor
from which they had been driven, had been purloined; but a piece of
wood having been left by the natives in its ftead, tied to the buoy-
rope, direxSed them to recover the anchor. Lieutenant Hergeft, who
failed as agent in the Daedalus, went in the afternoon to the place
for obtaining frefh water, which was at the diftance of a mile from
the fhip ; and finding the furf violent, he landed with only four
men, in order to fill two water-cafks. The buckets ufed for this
purpofe were foon ftolen by the iflanders, who crowded round,
without any perfon of aiithority to reftrain them. They even fnatched
Mr. Hergeft's fowling-piece out of his hand ; and there being but
one mulket left among the party, it was judged better to make good
their retreat with this, than to employ it vindidively. On retiring
to the long-boat, they found that fome of the natives had, by diving,
cut away the grapnel, with which it had been fecured. When they
regained the boat, they rowed clofe to the fhore, and fired a volley
of muflcetoons and fmall arms oyer the heads of the crowd. All
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. , Ixxix
immediately fled to the woods, except one man, who flood his
ground, and threw flones at the boat's crew. This bravado was fuf-
fered to pafs iinpunillied, but four cannon fliot were fired from the
fhip over the fouthern village, which was not above a quarter of a
mile diflant. This happily produced no worfe cffc6l than to terrify
the natives, who fled in every dircdlion to the mountains ; and about
fun-fet one of them fwam off" with a green bough wrapped in white
cloth, which he threw into the fliip. Having thus difcharged his
embaflly of peace, he immediately returned on fliore.
The next day, Mr. Hergefl: repairing to the watering-place with
an armed party, was cheerfully afliflcd by the iflanders to fill and
roll the cafks, with which they alfo fwam to the boats, and were
fuitably rewarded for their labour. They could not fl:ill be reftrained
from pilfering on board, and a theodolite belonging to Mr. Gooch,
an afl:ronomer, was carried off", but feafonably recovered.
A chief named Too-6u, who had vifited the fliip when flie firfl:
anchored, returned on the 24th with a prefent of provifions ; and
two others, fome days afterward, brought the grapnel which had
been cut from the boat. They promifed alfo to procure the fowling-
piece, but came on board when the fhip was ready to fail, without
fulfilling their engagement. Mr. Hergeft having well rewarded
them for their former trouble, and being confident that they could
have recovered his gun, informed one of them that he fliould carry
him away if it was- not fpeedily reft:ored ; and accordingly placed a
centinel over him in the cabin. The reft of the natives fled in alarm;
but the fowling-piece was obtained in half an hour. The prifoner
was then liberated, greatly to his joy; and prefents were made to
hirw-, and to another principal perfon who had brought the gun on
board.
The crowd of iflanders having incommoded the fliip's company
in their bufinefs, the colours were hoifled, to fignify that they mufl:
not come on board. The men fubmitted to this prohibition ; but
many of the women pcrfifled in fwimming to the fhip, till mufkets
Ixxx PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
were repeatedly fired over their heads, to deter them. Thefts were fre-
quent and daring, and the chiefs feemed to want either authority or in-
clination to reprefs them. One man, who had made off from the flaip
with a bucket, was fhot unintentionally through the calf of his leg,
but no other damage was occafioned.
A good fupply of vegetables was obtained ; but few hogs could
be purchafed, and thofe at a rate unufually dear in the South-
Sea iflands. The harbour was accurately furveyed before the Ihip
failed, but the fketch given by Captain Cook was found to be fuffi-
ciently corred:.
The Prince William Henry left Otaheite on the 29th March, the
fame day that the Daedalus failed from Ohittahoo. She made a
diredl north-eaft paflage to this ifland, which is therefore demon-
ftrated to be pradicable, although not known to have been performed
by any other veffel. Her ftay was very tranfient, and her voyage
from Britain to the Sandwich iflands was fo rapid as to be accom-
pliflied in four months.
Captain Brown, in the Butterworth, accompanied by two fmaller
private vefTels, anchored in Port Madre de Dios ifl June 1792, and
flaid only two days, to take in frefh water.
The degree in which the manners of the people at Ohittahoo had
been corrupted, fubfequent to Cook's voyage, was not known when
the Duff left England ; and the difappointment, occafioned by this
change, appears to have produced the only inftance that occurred
among our miffionaries, of fhrinking from the work in which they
were engaged. If the folitary condition of a very promifing young
man, who had the fortitude to remain fingly on his poft, fhould tend
to delay the progrefs of the gofpel at the Marquefas, it is hoped
that this deficiency will foon be amply fupplied. Obflacles, that
are to be apprehended from long-eftablifhed cuftoms in the other
groups, are here apparently not liable to oppofe the truth; and
we trufl that a foundation has already been laid, on which others
may build with great advantage.
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE, Ixxxi
To the northward of this ifland, and fcparated by a channel hardly
above a league in breadth, is Ohevahoa, which extends fix leagues
north-eaftward, and has a circuit of fifteen or fixteen leagues. It is
more fleep and craggy, efpccially toward the eaftern pouit. tlian
Ohittahoo; but its deep valleys, and the fides of the hills, are, like
thofe of the former ifland, clothed with trees and verdure. Mendana,
who difcovcrcd it on the Lord's day, named it on that account
La Dominica. He failed along the fouthern coaft, as Cook did after-
ward, without difcovering any harbour. This deficiency has pre-
vanted any farther knowledge of the interior country. It appeared in
a much more advantageous light to the former navigator than it did
to the latter. The natives have always attended at Port Madre de
Dios, when European veffels have lain there; and they refemblc
the inhabitants of that place, with whom they maintain friendly
intercourfe.
On AT EVA, which was named San Pedro by Mendana, lies about
£ve leagues eaftward of Ohittahoo, and as much to the fouth of
Ohevahoa. It is about three leagues in circuit, moderately high, and
pretty level; with extenfive woods, and pleafant plains.
The moft fouthern ifland of the group, ten leagues diftant from
Onateya, was the firft that Mendana difcovered; and he named it La
Magdelana, in allufion to the Romifli feflival on which he fell in
with it, July 2 1 , 1 595. He coafted the fouthern (liore the following
day and four hundred of the natives came ofF, feme in canoes, feme
floaimg and fwimming, to the (l.ips. They offered cocoa-nuts, and
other fruits, to the Spaniards, and invited them to land. Forty ot
the iflanders, with little perfuafion, went on board Mendana's vefTel,
and were prefented with clothing; but they attempted to flcal almoil
every thing they faw, which foon produced a contefl. One ot the
Spaniards was wounded by them with a flone, and they fuftered fc-
v£rdy from the fire-arms. The fquadron continuing under fail, they
fent after it a canoe, with fymbols of peace and friendlhip. This
ifland was judged to be fix leagues in circuit, and appeared populous
m
Ixxxii PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
and fertile. Captain Cook, who faw it after leaving Ohittahoo,
reckoned it to be nearly in latitude lO" 25', 138" 50^ weft longitude.
Captain Brown, in the Buttcrworth, 27th May 1792, (fifcovercd a
rock refembling a fliip, north-eaftward from the fouth-eaft point of
this ifland, at the diftance of five leagues. He did not anchor, but
laid to off the fouthcrn coaft till tlic 31ft, and procured cocoa-nuts,
plantains, and bread-fruit, for nails, from the canoes which came
alongfide, and by his boats from the inhabitants on Ihore. One of his
people fpent a night upon the ifland, and fwam off the next morning".
The natives are underftood to call this ifland Ohittatoa. •
The only addition to the difcoveries of Mcndana, which was made
by Captain Cook's vifit to the Marquefas, is an ifland called b}'- the
inhabitants Tebooa, and by Cook, Hood's ifland. It is fituated in
the latitude of 9° 26', and at the diftance of five leagues from the
eaftcrnmoft point of Ohevahoa, nearly in the direction of N.N. W.
It has a bluff appearance, and is of inferior extent to moft others of
the group.
The fliips, which, at a later period, have proceeded to the north-
"ward, after taking refreflaments at Ohittahoo, have made much more
important difcoveries in this clufter. It is faid that Captain Le
Marchand, in 1789, was the firft who faw feveral iflands at no great
diftance to the north-weft of thofe which had fo long before been
difcovered. An American named Ingraham next obferved them, and
fuppofed them to have been till then unknown, but did not land upon
them. The only information refpedling thefe iflands, that has
hitherto been publiflied, was obtained during the voyage of the
Daedalus ftorefliip, in which they were particularly explored. The
pofitions of the newly-difcovered iflands having been very incor-
rectly laid down by our countrymen who preceded Captain Wilfon,
we refer to his account and chart for their fituations, forms, and
extent ; limiting our prefent notice to the circumftances which appear
in the vifits that were previoufly made to thefe iflands.
The fouthernmoft of the new Marquefas, Rooap5a, was called
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. Ixxxiii
Trevennen's ifland by Lieutenant Hergeft, who examined it 31ft
March 1792. In its centre are two rocky eminences of vafl: height,
and of fingular figure, with fevcral fmaller peaks adjacent. Near the
fouth-eaftern point of the coaft is a rock refcmbling a church with a
fpire. Several fmall bays are formed in the fouthern fide, the beft of
which is terminated by the fouth-wcftern point of the ifland. It
was named Friendly bay, from the conduct of the inhabitants, of
whoni more than a hundred peaceably furrounded the fiiip with their
canoes, and bartered fruits for beads and other trifles. They feemed
to be very numerous on fliore, and the eaftern and fouthern fides of
the ifland to be very fertile. The natives exadlly refembled in ap-
pearance thofe of the preceding ifles.
Due north from thence, and eight leagues difl:ant, is NooAHiiv a,
called by Mr. Hergefl:, Sir Henry Martin's ifland, which is the mofl:
confiderable of the whole group, both for extent and fertility. The
fouth-eafl:ern cape, which he named Point Martin, forms, with the
coaft to the wefl:ward of it, a deep bay, well flieltered, and bordered
by fandy beaches. At the head of the bay was obferved, either a
deep cove, or the mouth of a confiderable fl:ream. Two leagues
farther wefl:ward is a fine harbour, with a fandy bottom, flioaling
from twenty-four fathoms to feven, within a quarter of a mile of the
fhore. A flream of excellent water runs into it, and it is well
fheltered from all winds. A beautiful plain extends for a mile and
a half from the beach. The country is populous, and well cultivated.
The people appeared to be lighter than thofe of Ohittahoo, and varied
confiderably from them in other refpefts. More than one thoufand
five hundred were aflfembled on the lliores of this harbour, which
was named Port Anna Maria. They received fome people who
landed from the Daedalus very hofpitably, and fent off all kinds of
provifions to the Ihip. The weflern fide of the ifland was lefs po-
pulous.
Captain Brown, in the Butterworth, landed at Nooaheva ;^d
June 1792, about two months after the Daedalus had been there j
m 2
Ixxxiv PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
and examined the north-weflern part of the ifland, upon which fide
likewife very good harbours were found. The natives alfo behaved
friendly and refpedfully, but being Grangers to white people, they
were eameft to fee whether their fkin was of the fame colour under
their clothing as in their faces. Some peculiar ceremonies feem to
prevail here : a woman, who, at the requeft of one of the Englifh,
brought him fome frefli water to drink, would not deliver it to him
till Ihe had pronounced a long oration.
Early in February 1793, the Daedalus revifited this ifland on her
way from the north-weft coafl: of America to New South Wales, and
anchored in Port Anna Maria. A friendly intercourfe was renewed,
but it was fuddenly broken off by a quarrel between one of the failors
and an iflander who had come on board. The latter having ftruck the
Englifhman, was fliot by him after having leaped overboard. Upon
this, a great number of war canoes were aflembled, and the fhip
was attacked with ftones. Lieutenant Hanfon, who had fucceeded
Mr. Hergeft in the Daedalus, was obliged to quit the harbour,
after remaining there two nights," and proceeded to obtain needful
refrefhments at Otaheite.
Eaftward from Nooaheva, at the diflance of fix or feven leagues,
is RooAHooGA, which was called by Lieutenant Hergeft Riou's
ifland. It is high and craggy, efpeciaJly at the weft end, but appears
more fertile than the fouthern iflands of the group. At this end is a
fhelf of rocks, extending about a quarter of a mile from the fliore,
which was named after Captain New of the Daedalus. This part
of the ifland is deflitute of any harbour for flipping, but on the
fouthern coafl: there are appearances of convenient anchorage in two
bays. Above one hundred natives aflembled in canoes round the
Daedalus upon her firfl approach to the coafl, and bartered their pro-
viflons in a very friendly manner.
It is probable that this group extends farther, both to the north-
weft: and fouth-caft, than has yet been explored. Four uninhabited
iflands arc all that have been difeovered befide thofe already defcribed.
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. Ixxxv
Of thefe, two, which are very fmall, are fituated weft by north from
Nooaheva, ten or twelve leagues diftant, the other two farther off
to the north-weft, in f 53' fouth latitude. The largeft of thefe
latter is eight miles long and two broad. Upon its north-weftern fide
is a bay, affording good anchorage, frefli water, and cocoa-nuts.
That fide of the ifland has in general a fertile appearance, but the
eaftern coaft is barren. The fmaller ifland lies near the other toward the
north-eaft, and fome rocky iflets are between them. Both the iflands
are high, and, though not inhabited, are occafionally vifited. They
were called Roberts's ifles, and the two fmall ones before mentioned
were named after Lieutenant Hergeji.
Mendana underftood from the natives of Ohittahoo, that they
fometimes vifited, in a hoftile manner, a country toward the fouth,
the inhabitants of which were black, and ufed bows and arrows in
battle. From Captain Wilfon's particular inquiry on this fubjedl, it
appears, that if they had at that time any knowledge of fuch a
people, it has fince been wholly loft. It is more probable that the
Spaniards mifapprehended what was faid; as that nation of the
South-Sea iflanders which correfponds to this defcription, is not.
known to extend farther eaftward than Feje, which is two thoufand
four hundred miles from the Marquefas.
wife account that has been given of the numerous iflands con-
nedted with thofe already occupied as miffionary ftations, fuffices to
illuftrate the extent to which, under the bleffing of our Lord, the
gofpel may probably be diffufed, from the three central places to which
it has been introduced. Were it poffible here to infert fimilar accounts
of all the countries which are fituated between thefe groups and the
coafts of Afia and New South Wales, the apparent importance of our
efforts would be enhanced beyond what can be conceived from the
fpecimen that is now furniflied. It muft not,_^however, be omitted,
bcxxvi PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
that people of the fame race with the natives of the groups we have
defcribed, are difperfcd over the hadrone and Caroline iflands, which
lie north of the equator, and extend from the 130th to the 175th
degree of caft longitude; and they have reached from the latter
group, or from fome intermediate places not yet difcovered, to the
Sandwich iflands, which are fituated between 155° and 160" weft
longitude, and 19" and 22° north latitude. Crofling the equator,
probably from the more eaftern of the Caroline iflands, they have
fpread over the clufl:ers of which we have given an account, and from
the Friendly Iflands have reached the large country of New Zealand,
between 34" and 48° fouth latitude, and 166° and 180° eaft longitude;
while from Otaheite, or fome of the iflands fouth-eafl: of it, they
have made a furprifing ftretch to the folitary fpot called Eajier IJIand,
in 27° fouth latitude, and no" weft longitude. The language and
cuftoms of this widely fcattered nation have been traced to the coafts
of the great Afiatic iflands, Luzon and Borneo, and from thence to the
peninfula of Malacca, the Aurea Cherfonefus, beyond which the geo-
graphical knowledge of the ancients can hardly be faid to have ex-
tended. The aftonifhing migrations of this race feem to have origin-
ated, like thofe of the northern Europeans, from defigns of conqueft.
Thefe they carried into efFeil on the coafts of the grand Afiatic archi-
pelago, driving the black natives of thofe very extenfive iflands to the
interior mountains, which they ftill occupy as a diftind and inde-
pendent people. But the migrations of the fairer race from the
Philippine iflands to the Carolines, and farther eaftwarck^ave
almoft to a certainty been occafioned by ftrefs of weather, ^iiich
drove their canoes from ifland to ifland, and from one group to
another, that had not before been peopled. Frequent incidents of this
nature have been afcertained, and fome of them have been fpecified in
our account of the iflands connedled with Otaheite. The population
of iflands fo widely fcattered, cannot, for the greater part, be other-
wife explained, either upon the ground of eftabliflied fad:, or upon
that of probable conjed:ure.
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. Ixxxvli
The original inhabitants of the great Afiatic iflands feem, hkewife,
before they were driven back from their coafts, to have made very
conliderable emigrations, although not to diftances fo remote as thofe
to which their fupplanters have been difperfcd. The darker race
■ has fpread over the vaft countries of New Holland and New Guinea^
wirh the adjacent iflands of New Britain, New Ireland, and
Louijiade, as well as thofe of Solomon, Santa Cruz*, New Cale-
donia, the chief part of the New Hebrides, and the group called Fcje.
Like the natives of Africa, whom in perfon they generally refemble,
they are divided into numerous tribes, and are diftinguifhed by
various languages ; yet there is a ftriking famenefs in the cuftoms
even of thofe mofl remotely feparated ; and they all differ efTentially
from the nation that occupies the numerous fmaller iflands of this
ocean. The former are ufually more favage, and of inferior flature;
but fome of their tribes may, in thefe refped:s, be compared, or even
preferred, to the leaft civilized colonies of their rivals. A New
Zealander can boaft little or no advanta^re over his neio;hbour of New
Caledonia ; and a Sandwich iflander mufl: apparently yield the palm
to an inhabitant of Feje. The fuperior hofpitality of the Otaheiteans,
the Friendly iflanders, and the Marquefans, invited our endeavours to
promote their beft intercfls ; and our eledtion of that nation, and of
thofe groups, has, through the blefTing of God, been juflified by the
trial which we have been enabled to make.
All the iflands of this ocean prefented frefh ground for miflionarv
labour, excepting the Philippines, the Ladrones, and a few of the
Carolines, to which the Spaniards had gained prior accefs ; 'Japan,
once filled with converts to popery, but now without the fliadow
of chriflianity ; and the northern Kurile iflands, which are flatedly
* The groups named by Mendana the Ifles of Solomon and Santa Cruz, are the fame
that, in pages 297, 298, of the following narrative, are called Egmont I Hand, &c.
and New Georgia ; thofe names having been given to them by Captain Carteret and
Lieutenant Shortland, who imagined that they were new difcoveries.
J
Ixxxviii PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
vifited bv a Ruffian clergyman from Kamtfchatha. That peninfula
contains the onlv ghmmcring ray of chriftianity that enhghtens
■the Afiatic coajl of the Pacific Ocean, with the fole exception of the
Roman CathoHcs fccrctcd in the Chinefe empire. The coaft of
Nor/Jb Aiiicrira, from Bchring*s ftraits to California, is involved in
more than Egyptian darkncfs. Upon the laft-mentioned peninfula
Spain has fcveral milTionary Itations, where benevolent and laborious
efforts are made, at leaft to civilize the miferable inhabitants. From
thence to the ifland of Chiloe, in South America, it is to be feared
that the Spanifh conquefls have led the natives rather to deteft the
name of chriftianitv than to comprehend its nature. Crofling this
i-mmenfe ocean to Ne-iv South Wales, at a diftance of 1 35 degrees of
longitude, wc find the gofpel preached with purity and zeal to a herd
of our own countrymen, whofc vices reduce them below the moft
abjed: clafs of the heathen world around. May the dodlrine of the
crofs triumph there oyer the unparalleled obfiacles it has to furmount ;
and may it advance from fliore to fhore, till it covers the hemifphere
that is walhed by the Pacific Ocean ! Let him who reads fiiy,
""Amen, Lord Jefus ! Thy kingdom come ! Thy will be done
*' in earth, as it is in heaven!"
p. S. On the general chart that defcribes Captain VVilfon's track, tliofe countries
of the Pacific Ocean, which lie within, or foiithward of the tropics, are comprehended
under the general name of Australia, after the example of foreign geographers.
As they appear to be divided between two diilinft races of inhabitants, one of which
almoft wholly poflefles the more extenfive countries fituated in the fouth-weftern part
of the ocean, thefe are diftinguifhed from the left by the title of the Greciter Auftralia :
the ntunerous fmall idands inhabited by riie fairer race Ijeing included under that of
Leffer Auflralia. To the whole group, of which a part was difcovered by Cook,
and called by him the Friendly Ifles, the title of United Archipelago is afiigned upon the
chart. The propriety of thefe innovations is fubmitted to the judgment of fuch among
our xeadsfs as are accuftomed to geographical re-fearches.
LETTER OF INSTRUCTIONS
TO
CAPTAIN WILSON,
FROM
THE DIRECTORS.
JL he conftant protedlion with which it has pleafed the Divine
Being to favour the concerns of the Miffionary Society, renders it
incumbent on us, before we enter on the immediate fubjedl of our
addrefs to you, to make a humble and undiffembled acknowledg-
ment of the gratitude which is due to Him, and to recognife with
thankfulnefs the frequent and manifeft interpofitions of his hand in
favour of this inftitution.
Among many other occurrences which have appeared to us of a.
nature peculiarly providential, and which we have considered as the
proofs of the condefcending care with which it has pleafed the great
Head of the church to regard this undertaking, there has been none
that excited more thankfulnefs to his name, or occafioned more
univerfal fatisfadion among ourfelves, than the circumftance of your
having been inclined to confecrate yourfelf to the fervice of God on this
interefting occafion. We truft that the fame Being, from whom the
difpolition has proceeded, will impart the grace which is requifite
to accomplifli the arduous fervice, and infpire the wifdom which is
needful for the execution of its important duties.
Connedled with us in the diredion of the affairs of the Society,
you are fully apprifed of the nature and defign of the expedition you
have undertaken to conduit.
n
^
xc INSTRUCTIONS TO CAPTAIN WILSON.
You arc aware, that it is not only in its nature lingular, and almoft
without a precedent, but that it is alfo one of the mofl: honourable
and mofl important fervices which can be confided to a human
being. The attention of the Chriftian world is very generally excited
to the objed:, and devout interceflions are continually afcending like
incenfe to heaven for its fuccefs. Should it be favoured with the
blcITing of God, it may be the diredt means of imparting divine
light and eternal life to great multitudes of immortal beings, and
may form an a?ra of diflinguifhed importance in the hiftory of human
redemption. In this view of the interefting nature of the bufi-
nefs.we are engaged in, it is with peculiar fitisfa(5lion and fin-
cere affedlion, that we, the Directors of the inftit-ution, not only
invcfl: you with the command of the fhip, and with full and complete
authority for the management of its concerns in relation to the voyage ;
but alfo commit to your care and fuperintendence, during the fame
period, the more important charge of the miffion itfelf, and cfpecially
of thofe faithful brethren who accompany you therein. Dear to our
Saviour, in whofe name they go forth, thefe apoftolic men will have
a ftrong interefl in your affecftions alfo. Having forfaken their friends
and their country for the loVe of Chrift, and with the defire of
fp reading the honours of his name among the heathen, they will feek
in your kind attention an equivalent for the endearing connexions
they have relinquifiied; and you will be defirous of extending towards
them the wife fuperintendence of a parent, and the affedlionate
fympathy of a brother. You will cheer the fpirit that is liable to
droop under the preffure of its anxieties, or adminifter the word of
admonition to the difciple that is in danger of erring. You will be
among them the centre of union, to reconcile their divifions, and
confirm their love; the univerfal friend, in whofe bofom they will
depofit their diverfified cares.
As it is needful that you fhould be furnifhed with infirudions,
both with refpea: to the voyage itfelf, and alfo with relation to the
ellabhfhmentof themifiion, it is our duty to defire, that after having
INSTRUCTIONS TO CAPTAIN WILSON. xci
received your cargo on board an invoice whereof you will be fur-
nilhed with, and alio the miflionaries who are to accompany you
whofc names and occupations you will have an account of, you will
plcafe to proceed with all pofTible difpatch to Portfmouth, in order
to join the Eaft India convoy now lying there, to which you are to
attach yourfelf, and to ufe every exertion in your power to keep com-
pany with it, as far as its courfe and yours are defigned to coincide.
In cafe the convoy Ihould flop at Tencriffe, you will procure four
pipes of the beft wine in hogflieads, for which you will apply to the
houfe of Mefl". Paifley and Little, and reimburfe them for the amount
by your draft on the treafurcr to the inftitution. You will endea-
vour to procure from thence two or three bunches of dried grapes ot
the beft kind, in order that the feeds may be planted when you ar-
rive at the place of your deftinationj alfo a few pecks, or even
quarts, of the beft feed wheat, together with the feeds of fuch tro-
pical fruits as you may think it would be advantageous to take with
you. You will alfo endeavour to procure one ram flieep and two
ewes, to be preferved for the purpofe of breeding; alfo a male and
female afs, for the fame purpofe. You will alfo at this place pro-
bably have an opportunity of giving your fhip's company and the
paflTengers feveral meals of frefh meat and vegetables ; which, as it
will promote their health and comfort, we are well perfuaded will
not efcape your attention. On taking your departure from Teneriffe,
we wifh you to confider the port of Rio de Janeiro on the coaft of
Brazil as your next obje(5t. At that place you will be able to lay
in a ftock of fugar very cheap, for the ufe of the fhip's company
and miflionaries on the voyage, as well as for the latter after they
are put on fhore; as alfo tobacco, chocolate, cochineal-plant, and
many other vegetable produdlions ufeful for confumption and cul-
tivation at the fettlement. Here you will alfo embrace the oppor-
tunity to procure a fupply of frefh meat, and other defirable ar-
ticles, for the refrefliment of the fliip's company, at a reafonable
rate.
n 2
xcii INSTRUCTIONS TO CAPTAIN WILSON.
From this port we wiili you to proceed by the way of Cape Horn
to the ifland of Otaheite, there to put in execution the diredions
which will be hereafter fuggefted, fo fiir as they may appear to you
eligible on your arrival. In the mean time, we think it material to
provide againft the probability of your meeting with a foul wind in
your attempt to double Cape Horn; in which cafe, after having made
the firft attempt as clofe in with the land as you think confiftent with
the fafcty of the (hip, we recommend you to ftand to the fouthward
to the diftance of at leaft four or five degrees ; when, if you ftill
find the wind blowing fteadily againft you, rather than lofe much
time in attempting to beat againft it, we advife you to bear up and
run for the Cape of Good Hope, where you will find thofe refrefli-
ments which by that time you will ftand in need of.
On your arrival in the South Seas, the deftined fcene of your
benevolent exertions, the immediate profpedt of the important fervice
before you will imprefs your mind with peculiar weight, and you
will be anxious to fulfil, to the utmoft of your power, the engage-
ment you have undertaken. You will then recolledl, that the fphere
of your activity is widely extended, and includes a confiderable
number of diflTerent iflands remotely fituated from each other ; you
will be reminded of the refolution of the general meeting, which was
thus expreffed :
" That a mifiTion be undertaken to Otaheite, the Friendly Iflands,
" the Marquefas, the Sandwich, and the Pelew Iflands, in a fliip
*' belonging to the Society, to be commanded by Captain Wilfon,
" as far as may be pradicable and expedient."
This refolution embraces a plan of great extent and importance,
and proceeds from the laudable and benevolent defire of introducing
the knowledge of Chrift into as many different iflands as pofi[ibIe;
you will therefore confider this refolution as the rule of your con-
dud:, and keep it in your remembrance in all your proceedings. It
is not to be departed from, without folid and important reafons ; for,
as the gofpel of Chrift is a blefling beyond the power of calculation
INSTRUCTIONS TO CAPTAIN WILSON. xciii
to eftimatc, the defirablenefs of fending it to as many iflands as
pofllble is in proportion to its ineftimable value. We do not mean,
however, to encourage you to adopt a fyftem of milTionary enterprife
beyond the boundaries of difcretion ; we do not urge you to depart
from the principles of prudence and caution, which fo important
an occafion requires ; nor by attempting to introduce the advantages
of Chriftianity in many places, fo to divide your numbers as to weaken
your efforts too much in each, and endanger your fuccefs in all.
The refolution is not intended to prevent a wife and difcreet circum-
fpedtion. It is indeed defirable to introduce the gofpel into feveral
iflands ; but it is neceffary, if poffible, to eftablifh it in one ; for if
you concentrate your exertions, and gain a folid eftablifhment in one
place, it may become the germ of other miffionary efforts, and be a
facred leaven which may gradually fpread its beneficial influence
through numerous and diftant iflands of the South Seas. Thus you
will perceive, that although the refolution by which you are to endea-
vour to regulate your operations is of great extent, and highly de-
Urable to be accompliflied, yet that it is limited by the conflderations
of pradlicability and expedience; and of thefe you will of neceflity
be the beft qualified to judge.
The queftion refpedling the pradlicability of vifiting fo many dif-
tant iflands muft be decided by circumflances which it is impofTiblc
for us to anticipate; and even to you, when in the South Seas, a miifion'
may appear to be pra(flicable, which you may nevcrthelefs not think it
expedient to attempt. For inftance, the Pelew iflands are the laft which,
in the order of your voyage, you will have occafion to vifit. The cha-
radler of the natives furnifhes a flrong inducement to eftablifli a miffion
among them, and the attempt may alfo appear to be pradicable : but
would you think it expedient to take a hw mifTionaries from the
iflands at a great diflance to windward, at an uncertainty of the re-
ception which a miflionary plan might meet with in the former? Sup-
pofe that, by a new chief having arifen with lefs favourable difpofitions
xciv INSTRUCTIONS TO CAPTAIN WILSON.
than the father of Lee Boo, or through any other caufe, you fliould
be prevented from leaving our brethren there, with perfecft fatisfad:ion
to yourfelf and them, what would be the effedl ? You could not
admit of the waflc of time and expenditure of money which it would
require to convey them to the iflands where your other miffions may
have been eftablilhed, even if your return thither againft the trade
wind was prailicablc; and you would probably have no alternative
but that of bringing them with you to their native land. The fame
reafoning may apply with refpedl to the Sandwich iflands. It is
extremely defirable that the blefTuigs of the Chriftian religion
fhould be extended to thofe populous regions ; but the indubitable
accounts which we have lately received of the actual flate of thofe
iflands, do not permit us to recommend the efl:ablifliment of a mifllon
among them at prefent. A variety of other conliderations will occur
to your mind when you are to decide on what is prad:icable and
expedient. If you look over the inventory of the different articles
which make up your cargo, fupplied by the liberality of our friends,
or furniflied from the funds of the infl:itution, you will pro-
bably conclude that they are much more adapted' for the co-opera-
tion of a number of individuals in one or two focieties, than for a
difl:ribution among more. When you conflder the qualifications of
the miflionaries, you will perhaps be inclined to think, that re-
maining in one or two bodies, they may form models of civilized fo-
ciety, fmall indeed, but tolerably complete. There are fome among
them who are adapted to be ufeful by the improved flate of their
minds, and their fitnefs for taking the lead in religious fervices ; there
are others who are neceflary on account of the fkilfulnefs of their
hands, and their knowledge of the ufeful arts : thus there would be
among them that mutual dependence and ufefulnefs which is the
cement of the focial order. If you fliould feparate them into feveral
parties for various miflions, it would occur to you that this order and
connexion would be very much broken ; and as every miflion fliould
INSTRUCTIONS TO CAPTAIN WILSON. xcv
contain within itfclf a competent fund both of divine and human
knowledge, you might perhaps find it impradticable to arrange our
miflionaries into feveral parties, and yet preferve among them thefe
indifpenfable requifites. Among our brethren who accompany you,
we truft you will find fome who polTefs a confiderable acquaintance
with the dodtrines of Chriftianity in their foundation and mutual
dependence, and are qualified for the defence and confirmation of the
gofpel ; but others of them have not perhaps a view of the fubjecft
fufficiently accurate and enlarged to fit them for the office of teachers.
They underftand indeed the dodlrines of grace in the mofi: precious
fenfe, by experimental convidlion ; and having a general idea of
them, may be very ufeful to the heathen by means of their con-
verfation as well as their exemplary lives. But in every miffion,
however fmall, it is eflential that there fhould be fome whofc
minds have acquired a maturity in divine things, and who are
fcribes well inftrudled in the kingdom of heaven. This it might be
difficult for you to accomplilh, on the plan of eftablifhing a number
of different fettlements.
If from thefe reafons, or others which may arife in your n:iind
when you are amidft the fcene of ad ion, you judge that the
caufe of Chrift among the heathen will be beft promoted by the
efi:ablifhment of fewer miffions, we fhall receive great fatisfaiftion
in finding that you are able to vifit more iflands, with a view to
the introduction of the gofpel among them at a future period. By
means of fome of the Europeans now probably refiding at Otaheite,
who may be difpofed to accompany you, your accefs to the un-
derftandings of the iflanders will be facilitated; you will eafily
communicate to them the beneficial plan you are proje<fling in
their favour ; and you may afcertain how far a miffion to any of
them may be advifable. This mode of procedure is highly de-
firable, as it may throw a confiderable light upon our future
path, and affift our judgment refpecfling the defigns of Providence
xL^i INSTRUCTIONS TO CAPTAIN WILSON-
toward thcfe iflands. It is the more to be recommended, on ac-
count of the great degree of probabihty there is of our revifiting
them, foon after the fafe return of our velTcl from her prcfent expe-
dition ; as it is evident, that, with the affiftance of a freight home-
M'ard, the navigation to thofe feas may be hereafter undertaken at
little comparative expenfe, and thus opportunities be afforded of fre-
quent intercourfe with them. Submitting thefe confiderations to
}our attention, we now think it neceflary to offer you a few more
obfervations, derived from the beft information we can obtain, and
the befl judgment we can at prefent form on the fubjedt : you will
adhere to them or not, as you may find it expedient when you arrive.
It is well known that Otaheite is the ifland on which the general
expectation has been fixed, as the place where our firft miffion is to
be attempted ; and we have no reafon to alter the opinion we at firfl
entertained of the eligibility of this fpot : but as our objedl is to in-
troduce the gofpel of Chrift among the heathen, all partialities or
prediledions to particular places muft be made fubfervient to that end.
We conceive you will vifit that iHand before any other, and you
will doubtlefs have an early interview with the chiefs. It mull: be
left to your own difcretion how far you will then unfold to them
tlie occafion of your voyage. You will alfo probably foon be vi-
fited by fome Europeans, and will moft likely find means to con-
ciliate their confidence, without committing yourfelf to them any
further than you may deem prudent. All your difcrimination
may be requifite to fix on thofe among them who are beff fuited
to become your inftruments ; from them you will learn the pre-
fent ftate of this ifiand, and perhaps of thofe adjacent, as to pro-
duce, population, difpofition of the natives, and political relations.
You will however be on your guard againft mifreprefentation,
and by comparing different reports find out the truth. You will
alfo guard againft treachery and furprife. You will be cautious
whom you admit on board; efpecially you will not allow the
INSTRUCTIONS TO CAPTAIN WILSON. xcvit
females, except the wives of the chiefs, and only a few at a time.
Neither would it be prudent to permit too many of the Englilli, if
remaining at Otaheite, to be on board at once. You will take an
early opportunity of vifiting the fmaller peninfula, as it has been
reprefcnted by fome voyagers to be the moft fertile, well cultivated,
and abounding with cotton and fugar-cane. Let the fliip run down
to the adjacent ifland of Eimeo, examine the harbours of Taloo and
Avoitai, converfe with the chiefs, learn the prefent ftate of that ifland,
and the difpofition of the inhabitants toward a fettlement of fome
of our brethren among them.
After you have afcertained to your fatisfadion the kind of
treatment which the mifTionaries are likely to experience at Otaheite,
you will be more capable of judging how to improve the remainder
of your voyage, than we are at prefent. To affift you in the di-
rection of your farther attempts, we recommend to your attentive
perufal the papers which have been committed to you, contain-
ing a defcription and hiflorical account of the iflands that are conned:ed
with Otaheite, or included in the groups called the Friendly Iflands
and the Marquefas. You will compare them on the grounds of
immediate advantage and future profpeds. To this fubjed: be-
longs the confideration of the fafety of our women, probability of
introducing our improvements, fupply of provifions, the produds of
the iflands in fugar, cotton, fandal-wood, &c. We are thus par-
ticular in fuggefling thefe obfervations to you, becaufe you are much
better qualified than we can exped; any of the mifTionaries to be, to
decide on the mofl eligible fpots for our fettlement; and it is a circum-
ftance of fo much importance as to claim your utmofb attention. You
will doubtlefs on this fubje<5l hold very frequent communications
with the mifTionaries, and efpecially with the committee,, ftating to
them the grounds on which you may prefer one fpot to another :
as it would be peculiarly defirable to obtain, if pofHule, a perfcdl
unanimity of the whole body as to the place of fettlement ; and the
objedions of thofe who may happen to think diffcieatly from your-
xcvlii INSTRUCTIONS TO CAPTAIN WILSON.
felf, or from the majority of their brethren, fliould be attentively heard
and maturely confidered. It is, however, very difficult for fo many
perfons perfcdly to coincide on any fubjedl ; and we therefore place
the power of decifion in a majority of the committee, provided that
you, the prefident, form one of that majority. As we conclude that you
pofTcfs a fuperior judgment on this fubjedl to any of them, it appears
to us to be a regulation highly conducive to their good, that no
fettlement fliould be made without your approbation. For the fake
of relieving you from fome part of the refponfibility, we lodge in
the fame committee, and fubje<5l to the fame rule, the power of de-
ciding whether there fliall be more mifTions than one eftabliflied, and
where the fubfequent ones fhall be attempted. To this committee
belongs alfo, under the fame reftridiion, the control over the articles,
implements, and utenfils, which make up the cargo of the fhip ;
and they, with your concurrence, are to decide, when, where, and
in what proportions, thofe articles are to be landed. In cafe, how-
ever, of feveral miffions being attempted, for the fake of flrid: and
impartial juflice we appoint, that two of the committee fliall be taken
from thofe who remain at the firfl fettlement, and two others from
thofe who are intended to be detached to any other : yourfelf, being
the prefident, and perfedly difinterefted, will have the power of
adminiftering juflice toward both. It is however intended, that a
quantity of articles, fuitable for prefents to the chiefs of iflands which
you may vifit in your way to Canton, fliould remain on board, and
you muft have the power of deciding what articles, and what quantity
of each, fliall be referved for that purpofe.
To a number of ferious Chriflians, who are, on all occafions,
feeking divine diredlion, it will no doubt occur, that the determination
of any qucflion refpeding attempts to extend the gofpel is of fuch
tranfcendant importance, as to require the mofl folemn invocation of
Him who heareth prayer, for the interpofition of his wifdom to guide
you in judgment. An unanimity, or nearly fo, of the whole body,
pn queftions fo interefling, and v^liich are to be decided after a
INSTRUCTIONS TO CAPTAIN WILSON. xcix
folemn feafon of devotion appointed for that fpecial occafion, would
afford confiderable fatisfadlion to our minds, as a favourable intinia-
tion of the divine fuperintendence.
In negotiating with the chiefs, you will explain to them the ad-
vantages which will arife to them from our rcfidcnce among them ; __
that it may be the happy effedt of their earncft dcfire, and not of
our fblicitation. As an inducement to us to prefer their iiland, they
mull give us a full title to the land we may have occafion for, gua-
rantee to us the fafety of our property from plunder, the enjoyment
of our laws and cuftoms, and the undifturbed exercife of our religion.
Inflead of exciting the jealoufy of the chiefs by any importunity on
our parts to continue with them, it would be more prudent to fliew
a readinefs to leave the ifland, and fix upon fome other, that it may
be underflood by them, that our inducements to vifit them have not
been to receive advantages, but to confer them. On this principle,
as well as for other reafons, we recommend that the land fliould not
be purchafed, but required, as the condition of our remaining with
them ; and that the prefents we make flaould not be confidered as
payments, but as gratuities, the expreilions and pledges of our good
will. If you fhould determine to make a fettlement at feveral iflands,
you and the committee will decide what number, and which indi-
viduals, fliould refide at each. If this fliould be the occafion of dif-
putes which you cannot amicably terminate, we recommend your
appealing to the decifion of Divine Providence by a folemn and
religious ufe of the ancient inftitution of drawing lots;
We have now finiftied the inftrudions which appeared to us
needful to communicate with refpedl to the miflion. The changes
which may have taken place in the ftate of the iflands fince the laft
accoimts, may make it neceflTary for you to depart from the advice
which we have now offered, and refort to expedients more congruous
to the circumflances before you, and better fitted to fecure the great
objedt.
On your arrival at Canton, you will addrefs yourfclf to the fadory
c INSTRUCTIONS TO CAPTAIN WILSON.
of the India Company, and in all refpedls conform to the conditions
of the charter, a copy of which you will take with you. You will
in particular obferve the neceility of your being there by the month
of December, or at lateft in the month of January 1798, that you
may receive your cargo on board, and fail for Europe in the early
part of the fpring. Thus we fliall cherifh the hope of your fafe
return foon after the fucceeding midfummer. In the mean time you
will doubtlefs embrace whatever opportunities occur of writing
to us either from Rio de Janeiro, or by the firft fliip which fails
from Canton ; and let your difpatches be addreffed to Mr. Jofeph
Hardcaftle, of London.
We have now only to commend you to the all-fufficient care and
protedlion of Him who holds the winds in his fifl, and the waters
in the hollow of his hand. The throne of mercy will be addrefled
with unceafing fupplications in behalf of your fafety, and the fuc-
cefs of your embaffy. You are accompanied by the affedionate efteem
of the excellent of the earth ; and miniftring fpirits, we truft, will
receive the welcome charge to convoy you in fafety to the place of
your deftination. May they be glad fpedators of the formation
of a Chriftian temple in thefe heathen lands, and thus be furnllhed
with the fubjedl of a new fong to Him that fitteth upon the throne,
and to the Lamb !
Signed by order of the Diredors,
John Love, Secretary,
FIRST
MISSIONARY VOYAGE,
CHAPTER I.
Introduction. — Appointment of Mijionaries and Ship*s Crew.
1 HE difcoveries made in the great fouthem fea by the voyages un-
dertaken at the command of his prefent majefty, George the Third,
excited wonderful attention, and brought, as it were, into light a
world till then almoft unknown. Iflands, it maybe faid, innume-
rable, were found to cover the bofom of the Pacific Ocean in different
groups ; fome of them extenfive, and many full of inhabitants,
who difcovered, by the fimilarity of their language and religion,
the fame original race ; though how they became difperfed over
three or four thoufand fquare miles, with no other veflel than a
canoe, is truly marvellous. The preliminary account affords a clear
and concife view of former voyages. This intercourfe with Europeans
communicated fome advantages, but withal entailed upon them mifcry
and difeafes, to which before they had been utter flrangers. The
perufal of the accounts of thefe repeated voyages could not but
awaken, in fuch countries as our own, various fpeculations, ac-
•cording as men were differently affcdled. The merchant confidcred
B
ft FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE
if they would afford any objed: of commerce ; the natiiralifl: eagerly
explored the peculiar fubjeft of his refearches ; and the aftronomer
fought a Nation, from whence he might obferve the tranfit of Venus
over the fun, and deduce from thence ufeful improvement in that
celeftial fcience. But when, as Mr. King obferves, thefe iflands
were found to produce little which would excite the cupidity of am-
bition, or anfvver the fpeculations of the interefted, they werp ready
to be abandoned to their primitive oblivion, unlefs occafionally vifited
by a flraggling fhip ; and after proving the fuperior advantages of
our iron tools, and led to the total negledl of their own, their fitua-
tion would have become ftill more deplorable than their original flate.
The iron we bartered with them could not be repleniflied, nor re-
paired by them, and muft foon become ufelefs ; they would have
loft the habit of ufing and making their former tools of bone and
ftone ; whilft the ravages of the difeafes which Europeans had pro-
bably communicated, threatened to fweep them from the earth with
the befom of deftrudtion. Rcfledlions on their unhappy fituation
had dropped from the pen of the humane, and pity had often fwelled
the bolbm of the compafTionate : a few felt for them, not only as
men, but as Chriftians, and wifhed fome mode could be devifed of
communicating to them the knowledge of that ineftimable book,
compared with which all befide is pompous ignorance, and all the
treafures of the earth lighter on the balance than vanity itfelf. The
objedt had lain on many a heart, and prayer had gone up on their
behalf J a feeble effort was difappointed by the unfaithfulnefs of
thofe defigned for the work.
Yet the idea was not wholly abandoned, though the profpe61: of
its accomplifhment was almoft defpaired of: a few of the faith-
ful minifters of Chrift, aflbciated on another occafion, feemed, at
the fame time, to exprefs a faint wifh that fomething could be
done for the heathen. On communicating their thoughts to others
of their brethren, they found a cordial difpofition to co-operate ; and
the attempt at Sierra Leone, though inftituted with a particular view.
TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. j
l^rought forth fome letters on mifTions, fuggefting their pradticability,
and calling to the attempt. This coincidence of a rifing fpirit of
miilionary purfuits, though in its lowert: embryo form, led to con-
verfe on the fubjeft, and to confider how the work might be begun :
two or three individuals offered to open a fubfcription for the pur-
pofe ; and the adive minifters who direded the Evangelical Maga-
zine refolved to hazard an advertifement of their defign, and to in-
vite the concurrence of their brethren. From thefe fmall beginnings
arofe the great increafe ; and the cloud, at firfl no bigger than a man's
hand, diffufed itfclf over this land, and poured down its copious
ihowers of bleilings on the ifles of the fouthern ocean. AmifTionary
fociety was in confequence formed in England, and zealoufly feconded
ty our brethren in North Britain.
Their objedt was fimple and noble; •' to deliver mankind from the
*' greateft: poflible portion of mifery which befets them, and to confer
" upon them the moft abundant meafure of felicity which our nature
" is capable of enjoying." They were confcious this could only be
cffeded by the gofpel of the grace of God preached among all natiohs,
as far as their opportunities or abilities might extend. For this end
their meetings became frequent, and their plans matured for exe-
cution.
After a long and ferious confideration of the fubjeft, they deter-
, mined to commence with the iflands of the fouthern ocean, as thefe,
for a long time paft, had excited peculiar attention. Their fituation
of mental ignorance and moral depravity ftrongly imprefled on our
minds the obligation we lay under to endeavour to call them from
darknefs into marvellous light. The miferies and difeafes which their
intercourfe with Europeans had occafioned, fcemed to upbraid our
negleft of repairing, if poflible, thefe injuries; but above all, we
longed to fend to them the everlafting gofpel, the firfl and mofl dif-
tinguifhed of bleffings which Jehovah has beflowed on the children
of rnen.
B 7,
4 FIRST INirSSIONARY VOYAGE
We were fenfible fome could not underftand our motives, and
others would ful'ped: or mifinterpret them; but confcious of the
iimplicity and godly fincerity which prompted us to the undertaking,
we perfevered undifmayed with difficulties, and, through the good
hand of our God over us for good, have fucceeded beyond our moft
fanguine exped:ations.
The various ft-ps in which we have proceeded are now before the
public, and fubmitted to the attention of thofe who would meditate
on the wondrous maze of Providence, and contemplate the great
events that fpring from means apparently the moft inconfiderable.
On notifying our intentions to the public, we met a fpirit of zeal
and liberality highly encouraging j applications manifold were
poured in of candidates for the miffion, with fubfcriptions adequate
to the undertaking. None but men the moft felcd: for piety were to
be admitted. We were defirous to obtain fome poftelTed of literary
attainments, but efpecially to procure adepts in fuch ufeful arts and
occupations as would make us moft acceptable to the heathen in that
ftate of inferior civilization to which they were advanced. A feledl
committee of minifters, approved for evangelical principles and
ability, was appointed to examine the candidates, as to their views,
capacity, and knowledge in the myfteries of godlinefs. Many were
rejeded, and only thofe received, who, after repeated and careful at-
tention to the fubjecl, by inquiries into their condud and character,
had the ftrongeft recommendations from the minifters and conoresra-
tions with whom they had been joined in communion, and of whofe
intelligence and devotcdnefs to the work we had the fulleft evidence^
Thirty men, fix women, and three children, were approved, and
prefented to the directors for the commencement of the miflion.
/
TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS.
List of the Missionaries who embarked on board the Duff,
at Blackwall.
NO. NAMES. AGE.
1 Rev. James Fleet Cover 34
2 John Eyre 28
3 —— John Jefferfon 2)^
4 Thomas Lewis 3 1
5 Mr. Henry Bicknell 29
7
8
9
10
II
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
• Daniel Bowell 22
Benj. Broomhall 20
John Buchanan 31
James Cooper 28
John Cock 23
William Crook ai
• Samuel Clode 35
John A. Gillham 22
• Peter Hodges 29
• William Henry 23
• John Harris 39
Hudden —
■ Samuel Harper 26
• Rowland HalTelt 27
. Seth Kelfo 48
• Edward Main 24
■ Ifaac Nobbs 24
• Henry Nott 22
■ Francis Oakes 25
OCCUPATIONS.
Ordained minifter.
Do.
Do.
Do. and has attended the hof-
pitals and difpenfaries, and
underftands printing.
Houfe carpenter, fawyer, and
wheelwright.
Shopkeeper.
Buckle and harnefs maker*
Taylor.
Shoemaker.
Carpenter.
Gentleman's fervant, and fince
tinworker.
Whitefmith and gardener.
Surgeon.
Smith and brazier.
Carpenter and joiner.
Cooper.
Butcher.
Cotton manufadlurer.
Indian weaver.
Weaver.
Taylor (late of the royal artil-
lery).
Hatter.
Bricklayer.
Shoemaker.
FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE
wo. WAMES.
25 Mr. James Puckey
26
27
28
29
• William Puckey
William Smith
William Shelly
George Veefon
James Wilkinfon
WOMEN.
31 Mrs. Mary Cover
32
33
34
35
36
Elizabeth Eyre
Elizabeth Haffell
Sarah Henry
Mary Hodges
Hudden
CHILDREN.
37 James Cover
38 Thomas Haflell
39 Samuel Otoo Haflell
AGE. OCCUPATIONS.
25 Carpenter.
20 Carpenter.
21 Linen-draper.
21 Cabinet-maker.
24 Bricklayer.
27 Carpenter and joiner.
37 Wife of J. F. Cover. -
64 Wife of John Eyre.
29 Wife of "Rowland Haflell.
23 Wife of Wm. Henry.
25 Wife of P. Hodges.
^ Wife of— Hudden.
1 2 Son of J. F. Cover.
2 Son of Rowland Haflell,
J 6 weeks. Do,
We wiflicd our feledlion of mariners fhould be equally choice, and
laboured to procure fuch, and were not a little fuccefsful in this
behalf. Captain Wilfon and the firfl: mate, his nephew, were per-
fons in every view equal to the undertaking, and as hearty in the
work as the mifllonaries themfelves. Many of the failors were men
of a like mind ; about half were communicants ; and every man was
eager to beg admittance with us, under the profefllon of wifliing to
be inftrumental in fo blefled a fervice, and the hope that he (hould
gain benefit and edification to his own foul.
During the firfl: fix weeks that they were detained in harbour, one
of our body, who continued with them daily, and often minifliered
unto them, declares he never heard the name of God blafphemed, a
TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 7
paflionate word fpoken, or faw an unbecoming adlion in any one of the
mariners, many of whom joined in the exercifes of prayer and praifc
with the mofl cordial devotion, and none who were not on duty ever
abfented themfelves from the ftated hours of worfhip. Surrounded as
we were by king's fliips in the harbour, and often increafed on the
quarter-deck by numerous vifitants, this excited no fmall mcafure of
furprife and wonder at its novelty. The fongs of Zion were daily heard
over the deep.-^The real Chriftian in every fituation of life poflcfles pe-
culiar excellence : his religion will never interrupt the difchargc of his
duties in fociety ; none will be found fo confcientioufly diligent; divine
principle will do more than the moft rigid difcipline. We appeal to
fads that muft carry convi(5tion to every candid and unprejudiced
mind.
The preparations being completed, and all the ftores on board, a fo-
lemn defignation of the mifTionaries to their office was made, and the
evening preceding the embarkation the diredlors met the miffionaries,
and celebrated their laft happy communion together, in the fulleft
confidence of fhortly meeting again in the prefence of God and of the
Lamb, and enjoying eternal fellowfhip with Jefus the mediator,
and the fpirits of all juft men made perfedt.
The profecution of our voyage for the accomplifhment of the be-
nevolent and evangelical purpofes of our fociety will be found to con-
tain a variety of events, interefting to the navigator, the naturalift,
and the politician; but above all, will engage the peculiar attention
of thofe who glory in the name of Chriftian, and long to fee, what
they fully expe<5t, the coming of the kingdom of the Lord, and of
his Chrift, when " the mountain of the Lord's houfe fliall be efta-
" bliflied in the top of the mountains, and the nations fhall flow
" unto it." — The ory of the univerfal church is, that '* the Lord
" would haften it in his time !"
8 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1796.
CHAPTER II.
Embarkation. — Departure from the River, — Stay at Portfjuouth.
J. HE preparations being completed, and the miflionades ready for
embarkation, the diredors of the fociety were very anxious for the
Duff's failing with the Eaft India convoy, which, at this time, lay
at Spithead, waiting for a fair wind. They embarked in fight of
many fpediators, and accompanied by relations, acquaintances, and
feveral of the directors, to whom, as refiding in London, had been
committed the care of the outfit of the mifiion. Auguft the loth,
1796, at fix in the morning, we weighed anchor, and hoifi:ed our
miffionary flag at the mizen top-gallant-mafl: head : three doves ar-
gent, on a purple field, bearing olive-branches in their bills. The
morning was ferene, and a gentle breeze blew from the W. N. W. ;
few veffels were fl:irring on the river ; all was ftill and quiet ; and
it feemcd a favourable feafon for pleafing contemplation to thofe
whofe hearts, warmed with benevolence to flieir fellow men, and ar-
dour for the extenfion of the Redeemer's kingdom, had long earnefi:]y
defired to fee a profpedt fo promifing as this their firfl: attempt now
afforded. With fatisfadion they beheld thofe, who at a future pe-
riod were to adl alone in the caufe, not difpirited at leaving their
native country and friends, nor with the thought of what lay before
them, but, on the contrary, refigning themfelves into the hands
of Him whom they firmly believed able to carry all his purpofes into
effed. The hymn, " Jcfus, at thy command — we launch into the
" deep," &c. was fung by upwards of an hundred voices, producing
a pleafing and folemn fenfation. The failors in the fhips we paffed
heard with filent aftonifiiment, and our friends, who lined the banks
of the river, waved their hands, and bid us a lafl adieu.
2
August.] TO THE SOUTIT-SEA ISLANDS. 9
. The fpirit which animated the brethren for this undertaking will
be bell felt by a Ihort extract or two fronx their journals, all which
fpeak the fame language.
One fays, " When taking a profpedive view of the great work
before us, my foul was conflrained to cry out, Who is fufficient
for thefe things ? But I was enabled to derive comfort and en-
couragement from the confidence, that He who holdeth the winds
in his fifl, and the waters in the hollow of his hand, can pre-
ferve from every evil. To his providential care I was enabled to
furrender myfelf ; determined, through his Divine afliftance, to
be devoted to the work of preaching the gofpel of Chrift to the
poor benighted inhabitants of the iflands of our deftination."
Another writes, " I felt deeply when leaving my native country
and dear friends, whom I loved as my life; but loving the Giver
of life, I trufl, more than all, I went with tears of joy."
At Woolwich a vafl: concourfe of people had colledled on the rtiorc
to falute us as we paffed. The breeze frcfhening, we arrived at
Gravefend before noon, and employed the remainder of the day in
clearing the decks, which were in a very lumbered condition , from
the eagernefs of a multitude of kind individuals from the neigh-
bouring towns, who, wufliing to contribute to the comfort of the
miflionaries, came on board, bringing various articles of rcfrcfliment,
and entreating they might be received, till every part of the fhip was
crowded to a very great degree. The miflionaries' chefts and ham-
mocks were alfo to be arranged and flung, to prepare for paffing the
firfl: night of their novel fituation between the decks with as little
inconvenience as pofllble. The Rev. Dr. Haweis, the Rev. Mr.Wilks,
and the Rev. Mr. Brookfl)ank, directors of the fociety, had come on
board at Black wall j the two latter deflgning to go down the Chan-
nel with their brethren to Portfmouth, and the former to remain
with them till they fhould leave England. Captain Wilfon, Mr.
Hardcaflle, and Mr. Fenn, came on board from London, and fet-
tled with the crew for their river pay and their bounty. The articles
c
JO
}'IRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE
[1796.
were agreed to and llgncd, and the fliip cleared at the cuftom-
houfe.
Voc List of the D
Jamks Wilson,
1 William Wilfon,
2 Thomas Codlell,
3 James I'aleoner,
4 Thomas Robfon,
5 Stanton,
6 John Micklewright,
7 John Orange,
S Bctijamin Bond,
9 Robert Law Con,
10 William Wells,
1 1 Mark Yates,
la Franeis Dad Ion,
13 James Wilfon,
14 James Lucas,
15 John Wells,
16 Robert Green,
17 John Stephens,
i3 Benjamin Bar,
19 William Tucker,
20 Samuel Templeman,
21 William Brown,
22 Samuel Hurrt,
urr's Crew.
Commander.
Chief officer .
Second ditto.
Third ditto.
Gunner.
Carpenter.
Steward,
Sailmakcr.
Cook.
Seaman.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Ordinary feaman.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto,
Ditto.
Ditto,
Ditto.
Ditto.
Apprentice.
Boy.
I ith, A frclh gale fpringing up from the S.E. we juftly appre-
hended the Eafl-India fleet would fail ; but as they are often by
various caufes detained, we flill refolved to pufli on with all polfible
expedition, and after a day of great adivity in fettling all matters, as
conveniently as the lime would afford, for our proceeding to fea, at
fevcu in the evening we weighed anchor, and turned down into the
August.] TO THE SOUTH^SEA. ISLANDS. ii
lower Hope. Mr. Henry Cox now took an aftcdipnatc leave, and
left us to purfuc our voyage. To this gentleman's ability and un-
wearied diligence we mufl ever acknowledge ourfelves indebted, botli
in forwarding our departure, by removing many great difficulties,
and by his care to provide all things comfortable for thofe who had
to perform fo long a voyage.
I 2th. At eight A.M. we weighed from the Hope Point with a
frefli gale at E.S.E. In plying down wc were met by fome kind
friends from Sheernefs, bringing with them three flieep, one hog,
and fome fowls for fea flock. At two P. M. anchored on Leigh flat ;
at nine got under weigh, and at midnight came to a little below the
Nore. This day the diredors on board, the Rev. Dr. Haweis,
Mr. Wilks, and Mr. Brookfl)ank, affcmbled the miflionaries, and
diredicd them to elccSl by ballot four perfons, to conflitutc a tommitlee,
agreeably to the printed inflrudtions of the body of dire(ftors. They
returned, as the refult of their proceedings, the following names,
viz. Rev. James Cover, John Eyre, John Jeffcrfon, and Thomas
Lewis, who were confequently admitted to that oflice by the
dired:ors.
Mr. Wilfon, as chief mate, being confidered as prefident in the
abfence of Captain Wilfon, who was to join us at Portfmouth, the
committee proceeded to eflabliflr the following regulations, viz.
Refolved,That the Rev. John Jeflferfon flioulil be confidered, as the
mifHonaries* fecretary, and William Smith his aflillant.
Relblved, That the Rev. Thomas Lewis fliould take upon him the
ofKce of librarian, and William Smith be his afTiflant.
Refolved, That John A. Gillham, fiirgeon, fliould be refponfiblc for
the medical books and inflrumcnts; but every mifTionary may equally
claim to read them under the library regulations.
Refolved, That John Harris flrould take upon him tlie oflke of
mifTionaries* ftcward, and diftribute the provifjons, as delivered to him
by the fliip's flew urd, to the difHrent meffes.
c %
,1 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1795,
Refolvcd, That each mefs fliall receive the articles and quantities
as under :
Tea, one pound per month each mefs for tlic men, one pound and
a quarter for the women.
Sugar, two pounds per week each mefs.
Butter, one pound and a half per week each mefs.
Cheefe, four pounds per week each mefs.
13th. Wind N.E. a light breeze. At four A.M. weighed, and
ran through the Five Fathom channel. Faffing through the Downs
we received the unpleafant information that the fleet had failed from
St. Helen's. At one P.M. we rounded the South Foreland, and
during the reft of the day had little wind.
14th. Calms and breezes from the weft ward alternately, fo that
we made but little way. It being fabbath-day, the Rev. Dr. Haweis
preached in the morning, the Rev. Mr. Brookftjank in the afternoon,
and the Rev. Mr.Wilks in the evening, on the quarter-deck.
15th. Calm until fix in the evening, when a breeze fprung up
at N.E. Beachy Head bearing N.W. by W. About nine P.M.
one of his Majefty's floops of war hailed and informed us that a
French lugger was cruifing fomewhere near j bid us keep a good look-
out, and hoift a light if we difcovered her, whilft they ran in nearer
the ftnore. Happily we efcaped all attack of the enemy.
1 6th. At eight A.M. anchored at Spithead. The Eaft-India
fleet had failed five days before our arrival. In paffing St. Helen's
a fquadron imder the command of Admiral Gardner was juft putting
to fca, and in company with them we probably might have gone
fafe from the enemy j but in a matter fo important we could not haftily
form the refolution : for, uncertain how far they would go in our
track, if obliged to feparate from them too foon we fhould run the
rilk of being captured ; and not to hazard fo favourable a beginning,
was thought a fuificient reafon for us to wait a better opportunity of
convoy.
August.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 13
At Spitheai we were vifited immediately by the Rev. Mr. Griffin,
of Portfca, and other friends of the miflion, who fliewed us all the
moft fraternal afFedtion, and furniflied us during our flay with the
moft generous fupplies. The Rev. Mr. Eyre, of Homcrton, and
others from town, came alfo on board. Captain Wilfon arrived and
took the command.
17th. Mrs. Hudden being affcdled by the fea, as mofl: of us had
been at firft, fell into fuch a dejed:ion of mind as engaged us to fend
her on fiiore at her requeft : her hufband went with her, though
reludlantly ; a man of a meek and quiet fpirit, and might have been
a ufeful member of our community ; but the dired:ors thought it by
no means right to feparate man and wife.
Our anxious inquiries after the next convoy led us to the port-
admiral ; and Dr. Haweis, with Mr, WiUiam Wilfon, by his di-
recftion, went on board the Adamant, Captain Warre, who received us
with politenefs, and informed us he fhould fhortly fail with a convoy
for Lifbon and Gibraltar, and would readily take us under his pro-
tedtion. With this the dired:ors were acquainted, and ordered us to
wait the opportunity.
But the delay began to weary our patience : we all longed for the
day of our departure ; and though entertained with the mofl: cordial
welcome by the brethren at Portfmoutli and Gofport, we waited the
iignal from the Adamant with eager defire.
Yet the fl:ay was not unprofitable ; the fame gracious Hand which
conduced us thither gave us caufc to acknowledge his lovino--
kindnefs ; fome good, we hope, refulted from tlie preaching-- of
many of the dired:ors and other brethren who vifited the fhip, and
from the miffionaries at Portfea, Gofport, and its vicinity. A fpace
was given to thofe who, if they had felt any change of mind, might
have departed from the work ; but all became more confirmed and
united.
An ingenious clergyman of Portfmouth kindly furnifhed Dr.
Haweis and Mr. Greathecd with a manufcript vocabulary of the
,^ FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1796.
Otaheitean language, and an account of the country, which provi-
dentially he had preferved from the mutineers who were feized by
the Pandora, and brought to Portfmouth for their trial, which was
of unfpeakable fervice to the milTionaries, both for the help which
it afforded them to learn before their arrival much of this unknown
tongue, and alfq as giving the moft inviting and encouraging de-
fcription of the natives, and the cordial reception which they might
expedl.
Here alfo were depofited in peace the remains of Mr. Cover's little
boy, who, in the laft ftage of a confumption, earneftly wilhed to
accompany his parents, though it was evident to every intelligent
medical man that he could have but a few days to live, and was
happily releafed before their departure.
A multitude of friends alfo had this opportunity of teftifying their
regard for the miffion, and furniflied us with many things that, in
our hafte to depart, had been forgotten, or, during our ftay here,
been thought of, for the comfort of the voyage.
The mifTionaries, during this delay, had, according to the regula-
tions eftablifhed, conftantly exercifed themfelves on board in rota-
tion, in preaching, prayer, and praife, which many attended j they
employed themfelves in reading and writing, efpecially refpe(5ling
the objects of their million ; and in one of their aflemblies agreed
to tranfmit to the body of the directors the following addrefs :
" Brethren,
•' We, the miflionaries, whom you, under the influences of our
" common Saviour, Lord, and Mafter, Jefus Chrift, the only be-
" gotten Son of the eternal Jehovah, have been inftrumental in
" bringing together, uniting in one body, and every way fur-
*' nifhing with all temporal neceffaries for the arduous undertaking
*' we have in hand, cannot bid adieu to our native country, and
" dear brethren in Chriff, without laying before the diredors
*' of the fociety (with the defire the fame may be communicated to
August.]
TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS.
15
all whom it may concern) our views and feelings upon our prc-
fent fituation and future profpedts.
*' Having, through grace, overcome the difagreeablenefs which
we at firft experienced on our embarkation, arifing from our little
acquaintance with each other, change in our habitation, and manner
of living, we find our minds compofed and refigned, and our
hearts more clofely united to each oflier in the bonds of love.
" On looking forward to the length of our voyage, and delibe-
rating on all the dangers and difficulties which thofe who traverfe
the bofom of the mighty deep are expofed to, and frequently meet
with, we are by no means difcouraged; but can cheerfully give
ourfelves up unto Him, who holdeth the winds in his fift, and
the waters in the hollow of his hand.
*' When we extend our view acrofs the great Atlantic ocean, and
contemplate the more extenfive Southern feaj when, in our ima-
gination, we conceive ourfelves landed on our deflined iflands,
furrounded by multitudes of the inhabitants, earneftly inquiring,
' From whence do you come? and what is your errand?' we
anfwer, * From a diftant fhore : the friends of God and human
kind } touched with companion at your unhappy ftate, as re-
prefented by our countrymen who formerly have vifited you ;
moved by the Spirit of our God, we have forfaken relatives and
friends, braved florms and tempefts, to teach you the know-
ledge of Jefus, whom to know is eternal life.' Though Satan
and all the hofl: of hell fliould be ftuno^ with indijrnation and re-
fentment at our boldnefs in the Lord, and fire the hearts of their
deluded votaries with all the fury and madnefs which brutal igno-
rance and favage cruelty are capable of; though our God, in
whofe name we go — our Saviour, by whofe rich grace we are
redeemed, (hould deliver us up to their rage, and permit our bodies
to be afflicted, yea, persecuted unto death ; yet, trufting in the
faithfulnefs of the Moft High, the goodnefs of our caufe, the
uprightnefs of our intentions, the fervency of our affedlion for
i6 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1796.
'* Chrifl: our head, and the ele6t of God, our hearts remain un-
" daunted; and being, by Divine mercy, enhfted under the banner
" of the great Captain of falvation, we are dellrous to be ' ac-
•• counted ^\•orthy to fufFer for his fake,' and to endure hardflaip
-" as becomcth good foldiefs of Chrift.
" Such, honoured brethren, and fathers in Chrifl, are our prefent
" feehngs ; which we hope, through your united prayers, and the
" fupply of the Spirit of Jefus Chrifl, our Lord and your Lord, our
" God and your God, we fliall never, never lofe.
•• To you, and all who have contributed towards our going forth,
•• we render unfeigned thanks; and our prayers are, that the Molt
■" High God may grant you occafion to rejoice in Jefus Chrifl on
" our behalf; to whofe grace we humbly and heartily commend
•'• you, mofl refpcdfully and affedionately bidding you — Farewell!
" By order of the miflionaries,
** John Jefferson, Secretary.
" On board the Duff, at Spithead,
" the igth-of Auguft 1796."
After waiting with fome impatience for our departure, the
convoy having been detained by delays unknown to us, and,
when alTembled, by contrary winds, at lafl the welcome fignal
was made September loth : at nine A.M. the commodore and
fleet began to weigh, and by ten were all under fail ; we alone were
flill at anchor, detained by one of our mifTionaries. Early in the
morning a boat had been difpatched on fhore for the time-keeper, and
to bring off Mr. John Harris, the abfent perfon ; but after waiting
a confidcrable time in vain, the officer was obliged to return without
him. We then immediately proceeded after the fleet, which was
fleering for the Needles ; but by the time we had reached Cowes
the fine S.E. gale failed m, and veering to the weflward, the fignal
was made to return; when we came to in our former fit nation,
Monkton fort bearing N. by E. Mr. Harris now came on board ;
he had been on a vifit to Southampton, and having heard the fleet
Sept.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 17
were failing, hired a boat and followed us ; but it is probable, had
the breeze continued, that he would have been left behind.
We had now anchored, as it proved, for thirteen days more j in
which time, and during the whole of our detention, wc received
the mofl obliging and unremitting kindneffes from the inhabitants
of Portfea, Gofport, Southampton, and other places ; nor were
we negleded by our friends in London, many of whom came
purpofely to vifit us, and thought themfelves amply repaid by wit-
nelTing the univerfal harmony which prevailed in the Ihip : for,
though the mifhonaries were moftly llrangers to each other, their
behaviour was fuch as gave reafon to hope they would enjoy that
peace and cordial good- will among themfelves, fo ejGTentially neceffary
to promote fuccefs in the great work in which they were jointly
engaged. At laft the wifhed-for hour of departure arrived ; the
fignal was made by the Adamant to drop down to St. Helen's. No-
thing could exceed the beauty of the fcene ; the day was remark-
ably fine ; the convoy moving on different tacks with their canvafs
fpread, and paffing the various fhips of war at anchor in the har-
bour. This being a ftate holiday, the forts and men of war began
their ufual falutes whilft the convoy was under fail, which tended
greatly to heighten the grandeur of the fcene. On the turn of the
tide they all call anchor, and waited for their final departure in the
mornmg.
The Rev. Dr. Haweis had been daily on board, had often preached
to us, and lately celebrated a fweet and blefled communion with the
miiTionaries and mariners ; he now took his forrowful, though joyful
leave of us, with an addrefs from Hebrews, iii. i . : his heart ap-
peared to be full, yea overflowing with love ; while we parted with
many tears, probably to meet no more till we fliould be re-aflembled
around the throne of God and of the Lanib.
i8 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE • [1796.
CHAPTER III.
Voyage from Port/mouth to St. J ago, and Occurrences there,
W E now took our final departure from Portfmouth, and launched
forth on the great deep. The fignal for failing being given, the
mifTionaries came on deck, and every countenance feemed elated with
joy at the thought of foon being employed in the great work.
At five A.M. the commodore and the fleet, confifting of fifty-
feven fail of tranfports and Portugal traders, were under way, the
Fly floop of war bringing up the rear. At noon we were all in a
fair way without the Ifle of Wight j wind eaflerly, thermometer 57,
the air cold.
25th. Proceeding with a fine gale, by eight o'clock on Sunday
morning we were off Falmouth, when the commodore made the
fignal for the fleet to lie by. A boat from St. Maw's coming along-
fide, we difpatched letters to our friends of our fafety and health.
About noon a frigate came out of the harbour and joined usj the
Fly floop at the fame time hauled her wind to the eaftward : the
commodore then made fail, and at fix P. M. the Land's End bore
north, diflant five leagues. This was the laft fight of Old England
that many on board were ever to have, and they, no doubt, felt much
on the occafion, though fenfible it was not for thofe who had parted
with country and friends, and taken up the crofs, to look behind :
indeed, every man feemed fully fatisfied with his deftination.
26th. Frefli gales from theN. E. quarter, accompanied with rain»
and a large eafl:erly fwell, which caufing the fliip to roll, mofl; of the
brethren experienced the fea-ficknefs feverely j but remained, not-
Vithftanding, unlhaken in their defire to go on, bearing with Chrif-
October.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 19
tian fortitude what they knew to be the general attendant on all new
travellers by fea. At noon we fell in with an Englifli frigate and a
two-decker cruifing, one of which fpoke our commodore. In crofling
the Bay of Bifcay we had favourable winds, and being with the
fleet, it afforded us an opportunity of feeing, by comparifon v/ith
the convoy, how fine a fhip we had got to perform our long voyage;
for while others were crowding all fail, we could go a-head under
cm- top fails, the men of war carrying the fame fail. This en-
couraged a hope alfo, that in cafe of being chafed by an enemy,
there might be a probability of effedling our efcape by means of
failing.
On the 29th our fea-fick miflionaries who were recovering, devoted
part of the day to learning the Otaheitean language and other ufcful
ftudies. A hawk, this day, refled on our rigging, and was caught: a
miffionary remarked, *' So might my poor foul, wandering from
•' its true home, be loll, if not gracioufly prevented by Divine
" mercy."
On the 30th, being in latitude 44" 50' N. long. 11° 17' W.
the commodore made the fignal for the headmoft flaips to lie by; the
wind at the time blowing fair for us, the captain thought we might
venture to make the befl: of our way, efpecially as the greateft danger
was now over, and we could go but little farther without deviating
widely from our courfe : hoifling our cnfign, therefore, to fignify
our intention, we were anfwered by the commodore, and making
all f\il, were followed by a South-Sea whaler and two other veflels.
The fleet foon difappeared, and the miflionaries held a particular
meeting of prayer and thankfgiving : praiflng God for paft mercies,
and confidering themfelves now deprived of human protedlion, they
gave themfelves up into the hands of the Lord, and committed them-
felves to his keeping and care, who hath promifed, '* when ye pafs
" through the waters I wall be with you,"
Odlober i ft. The wind continued at N, E. and we failed before
it with a pleafant breeze, about fix knots an hour. — How gracious is
D 3
20 FIRST MISSIONz\RY VOYAGE [1796,
God in favouring: lis with fuch wind and weather ! we want nothing:
but more gratitude and love.
ad. This being the Lord's day, Mr. JefFerfon preached in the
morning, and with his other brethren adminiftered the communion
to the captain, miffionaries, and feamen. Surrounded now only with
fea and Iky, we feemed to have taken our departure from the abodes
of the living, to be nearer the prefence of our heavenly Father; and
drinking out of the ever-flowing fprings of his love, fpent the day
in prayer and praife.
3d. The miffionaries in turn kept up the evening and morning
devotions, and through the day employed themfelves in ftudy, or
thofe occupations they could purfue. The women and children bore
the voyage amazingly well ; except a little fea-ficknefs , all was per-
fectly pleafing, and not a complaint to be heard. We faw a large
fhip, and took care to pafs to windward of her, left llie fhould
prove an enemy ; but the difplay of the American flag freed us from
that apprehenfion.
On the 6th a beautiful fun-rifing : we faw the ifland of Madeira,
which fhows high, and may be feen in clear weather when diftant
feventeen or eighteen leagues. This ifland, lying in the neighbour-
hood of Europe, and famous all over the world for its wines, is
largely defcribed by different authors ; therefore, had we even op-
portunity of making obfervations of our own, to infert them here
would be unneceflary.
Mr. Cover and Mrs. Eyre were ftill affeded with fea-ficknefs ; all
the reft were in perfedl health. We paflfed Madeira, intending to
touch at St. Jago, the principal of the Cape de Verd iflands, there to
replenifii our water, and procure what refrefliments the place could
fpeedily fupply.
The night of the 6th and the following day we had unfettled,
fqually weather, the wind veering from N.E. to S. E. and frequent
heavy fliowers of rain, with which we filled fome of our water-
caflis. On the 8th we came in fight of Palma, one of the Canary
October.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 21
iflands. On the loth, in lat. 23" N. wc favv a ftrange fail in the
S.E. quarter; llie fired a gun to leeward, to fignify flic was a friend;
we did the fame : but as we drew nearer to her they took the alarm,
and crowding what fail they could, fleered from us. Diflance run
this lafl: twenty-four hours one hundred and eighty-five miles. —
nth, crofTcd the tropic of Cancer, and had feveral flying-fifli about
VIS ; thefe were a novel fight to many on board, and excited much
furprife and admiration.
I 2th. This day had been previoufly appointed for folemn humilia-
tion and fafling, begging God to prepare us for our work, and for-
give whatever his pure eyes had beheld amifs among us. Mr.
Lewis preached in the morning, Mr. Eyre in the evening ; the whole
day was fpent in devotion by the miflionaries, and proved a feafon of
mercy and refrefhing from the prefence of the Lord. Proceeding flifl
to the fouthward, on the 13th, about nine A. M. we faw Sal, which
is the northernmoft of the Cape de Verd ifles ; it has a fun-burnt
appearance, infomuch that, as we failed along to the eafl: ward, about
three miles off fliore, there was not a tree or green fpot to be feen.
At four P.M. Bona Vifla came in fight; it is hilly, and might be
feen feven or eight leagues oflF, but for a thin white haze which is
common to all thefe iflands, and has the efFedt, that when you think
the weather clear, you cannot fee the land till within two or three
leagues of it. This ifland has a good harbour on its weft fide, where,
as we failed along, we faw fome vefTels at anchor. At eight in the
evening we took a departure from the S.W. end of Bona Vifla, bear-
ing at that time E. S. E. fix miles : then, after running S. S.W. | W.
thirty-five miles, jufl as the day dawned we faw the ifle of Mayo,
and right a-head, diftant a mile or two, the dangerous rocks which
lie off its north end.
14th. The fea broke upon them with great violence ; had we kept
running on, we fhould juft have hit them ; but a courfe S, by W. | W.
from the weft fide of Bona Vifla, will take a fhip near to the eaft
fide of Mayo, and lead clear of this laft danger. Two Ihips, one
at FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1796,
brig, and a fchooner, were lying in Mayo road, probably for cargoes
of fait, abundance of which is yearly fhipped from thefe iflands.
With pleafant weather, all fails fet, and a fine fair wind, by eleven
A.M. we loft fight of Mayo, owing to the before-mentioned hazy
atmofphere, for we were at no great diftance from it ; at the fame
time we could difccrn St. Jago ojff the deck. At one P. M. pafled
the S.E. point, and half an hour after tacked clofe to Green iflandj
then made two fiiort tacks, and came to with the fmall bower in
eight fathoms, the fouth end of Green ifland bearing W.S.W.f W,
and the peaked mountain open about two fails breadth to the eaftward
of the flag-ftaff on the fort.
Thus have we fafely reached the firft port for refrefliment, after a
voyage perfedly pleafant, and juft three weeks fince Ave left St. He-
len's. The Lord has ihewn us great favour indeed j the wind hath
been fo fair, and the weather fo good, that divine fervice hath been
regularly and daily condudled without the leaft interruption. — How
great are his mercies ! Such poor frefii- water failors as we were, needed
thefe gracious commencements, to prepare us for the vaft fpace which
yet remained.
As foon as the fails were furled the captain fent the firft mate with
his refpeds to the governor, to requeft leave of him to water and
purchafe refrefliments, which he very politely and readily granted.
The chief governor refides at St. Jago town inland, and the gentle-
man at Port Praya was his deputy. Refpedling live ftock, vegeta-
bles, &c. he faid that none could be purchafed this evening; but
as the news would quickly fpread that a fhip had arrived in the
port, to-morrow early the natives would refort within the walls of
the fort, where the market is ufually held ; and as each brings a part
of what he pofiefTes, there is generally colledled whatever the ifland
affords. This being the cafe, we could only go on with our water-
ing, which is here attended with much trouble, having to roll the
caflcs a quarter of a mile over a hot foft fand, and take them off
through a heavy furf : bcfides, the water, after it is got, is brackifh.
October.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 23
That for the ufe of the fort is brought on aflcs or camels from a
diftance of three or four miles.
The deputy-governor had long laboured under a dangerous com-
plaint, and though for fome time paft in a way of recovering, yet
for want of advice and medicines was apprehenfivc of a relapfe.
Dr. Gillham being on fhore, the cafe was made known, and his opi-
nion and advice agreeing with what had been told the governor before
by a furgeon of an Indiaman, gained confidence, and the dodor's
fervices were gladly accepted, who prefcribed for the governor and
his lady, who was alfo indifpofed j and hevifited fome poor fick na-
tives. Their difeafes he chiefly found to be intermittents, difcafes
of the liver, and anafarca. He reports the place as very unhealthy,
yet was informed of a pcrfon one hundred and ten years old.
15th. At daylight the pinnace was detached for another turn of
water, fome of the miffionaries voluntarily lending their afliftance.
On her return the fliip's fteward was fent to trade for live flock, &c. j
a few of the mifllonaries accompanied him to procure what things they
wanted for their own ufe : old clothes they found to be a ftaple ar-
ticle : however, we were in a meafure difappointed, for the market
was not as well furnifhed as we expected, owing, as the fort alleged,
to but few of the country people being yet apprifed of our arrival ;
therefore all we got for the cabin was, one turkey, five fowls, five
pigs, a quantity of oranges, and a quarter of a caflc of Madeira
wine for the ufe of the miflionaries, which we procured from the
captain of an American brig that lay in the port. While we were
on flaore the governor treated us with the greatefl refpedl and kind-
nefs, and had Dr. Gillham, myfelf, and two of the brethren, to dine
with him. In return for his civility. Captain Wilfon fent him a
cheefe and fome tea and fugar, articles which he flood in need of, the
regular fupplies from Lifbon having not arrived, though paft the
ufual time. Our water being completed, at five P. M. a gun was
fired from the fliip, a fignal for thofe who were on fliore to repair
on board ; hoifled the boats in, got under way, and by fevcn o'clock
34 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1796.
■were clear of the harbour : thermometer 77°, very fultry. St. Jago is .
the mod fruitful and the beft inhabited of all the Cape dc Vcrd
iflands, notwithftanding it is very mountainous, and has in it a great
deal of barren land. The principal town is named after the ifland,
and is fituated in 15° N. lat. ; it Hands againft the fide of two
mountains, between which there is a deep valley two hundred yards
wide, that runs within a fmall fpace of the fea. In that part of the
valley next the fea is a ftraggling ftreet with houfes on each fide, and
a rivulet of water in the bottom, emptying itfelf into a fine cove, or
fandy bay, where the fea is generally very fmooth, fo that fhips ride
there with great fafety. A fmall fort is eredted near the landing-
place of this bay, where a guard is conflantly kept, and near it is a
battery mounted with a few fmall cannon, but incapable of refilling
an enemy.
Port Praya is a fmall bay, fituated about the middle of the fouth
fide of the ifland, in lat, 14° 53' N.long. 23°30^ W.j it may be known
by the fouthernmofl: hill on the ifland lying inland in the diredlion
of weft: from the port ; the hill is round and peaked at the top. Green
ifland may alfo be taken as a mark by which to know the harbour ;
it lies on the weft: fide of the bay, is not very high, and has fteep
rocky fides. From this ifland to the w^eft point of the bay lie funken
rocks, upon which the fea continually breaks : the two points which
form the entrance lie in the diredlion of W. S.W. and E.^.E, half
a league from each other. It is ufual for Eaft-Indiamen, Guinea
traders, and others bound to the fouthward, to touch here for re-
frefliments: " Bullocks," fays Captain Cook, " muft be pur-
'• chafed with money; the price is twelve Spanifli dollars a-head,
" weighing between two hundred and fifty and three hundred pounds.
" Other articles may be got from the natives in exchange for old
" clothes, &c. ; but the fale of bullocks is granted to a company of
** merchants as their peculiar privilege, and they constantly keep an
*♦ agent refiding on the fpot." This may in general be true, but we
^•ould find neither merchants nor agents, confequently got no buj-
October.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 15
locks ; however, had our flay been longer, it is probable fomc of
them would have come to the fort.
Though our ftay was very fhort, our brethren on fliore were not
inattentive to their firfl objed:; we fliall juft mention, in the fim-
plicity of the language of the reporter, what paflcd on one occafion :
•' I was meditating on the great goodncfs of God to me an un-
" worthy creature, and that ' whofoevcr is afraid or afliamed of his
" word before men, of him will the Son of Man be afhamed,' when
" I met a native black man, who invited me to his houfe. My
*' mind was greatly imprcffed with the ignorance and fuperftition I
*' faw ; fo I went with him, and found him very friendly : he
'* fpoke the Englifli language fufficiently to be underflood ; I in-
" quired what religion he was of; he told me he was a Roman Ca-
** tholic. After fpcaking a little of their mode and manner of wor-
" fliip, I told him freely I feared he was wrong ; that God could
" not be worlhipped through the medium of images, pointing out
*' the feveral pafTages of God's word which forbad fuch worfhip ;
*' and, bleffed be God, he appeared very much to give way to what
** I faid to him ; and I hope the Lord will convince him by his
" Spirit. Before parting from him, I defired him to read over all
*' the pafTages I had pointed out to him, for he had an old Bible,
** and could read a little : I begged him to compare the word of
" God with the fentiments he had been taught, and to pray to God
*• without images fet before him, as they are an abomination to the
" Lord ; and there can be but one true way of worfhipping him
" through Jefus Chrifl, and him alone. Thus, after a few more
" words, we parted, and I hope the labour will not be in vain in
♦* the Lord."
26 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1796.
CHAPTER IV.
Run to Rio 'Janeiro. — Reception and Ohfcrvations.
i8th. JlJ-AVING completed the purpofe of our landing at Port
Praya, and afrefli taken our departure, at a little diftance off the
ifland a fine breeze fprang up, and continued from E.S.E. to E.N. E.
with hazy weather ; then gradually declined to calms and light airs
alternately. Lat. 9° 30' N. long. 23^ W. at one P. M, we faw a
fail to the weft ward, and by five o'clock in the evening, the variable
light winds being moft favourable to her, fhe had got within a
mile of US; then hoifting Englifia colours, fired a gun to bring us
to : we likewife fired and fhewed our colours j and obferving that
file had the advantage of failing we bore down to fpeak with her ;
but there being hardly any wind, it was dark before we came within
hail : their gun-ports, fore and aft, were up, the between decks lighted,
and the crew at their quarters. This formidable appearance damped
the fpirits of our peaceable paffengers, who were now in fufpenfe
whether they fhould go to France or Otaheite j for as fhe was much
our fuperior in force, we muft inevitably have fallen into their hands
had they been enemies : but on hailing her our apprehenfions va-
nifhed ; her name was the Jack Park, of Liverpool, bound to Africa j
fhe was a letter of marque, and out of twenty-two veffels flie had
examined we only were Englifli.
The obfervations of the miftionaries, on this occafion, are well
worth remarking: " Many fears began to arife in our minds ; but
" thanks be to God, we were enabled to caft our care upon Him,
• ' and refign ourfelves to his bleffed will ; knowing that whatever
•' the Lord in his providence fhould fend us, we truft fhall b^ for his
«' own glory— the Lord is better to us than all our fears,"
October.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. ij
1 9th. " This morning at fun-rifing I was upon deck," faysW. P.
" and ftruck with the fcenc prelented to my view. The fca was
•' quite calm and ferene, the iky was moll: beautiful, and the fun
*' difcovering his diflc out of variegated clouds : I never before faw
*' any thing fo delightful. At a diflance were fome water-fpouts
" extending from the clouds to the fea, which formed a moft won-
*' derful objedl : I thought of the beautiful words of the Pfalmift,
*' ' They who go down to the fea in fhips, (Sec. they fee the works
" of the Lord, and his wonders in the deep'."
2 1 ft. A heavy fquall came on when the miffionaries were en-
gaged between decks in evening prayer ; and the Ihip heeling on
a fudden, the lee fcuttle being open, the water ruflied in like a
torrent, and rather alarmed them. " I caught up," fays W. H, " a
*' gown of my wife's, the firft thing in the way, and held it in the
*' fcuttle- hole till the carpenter went over the Ihip's fide and clofed
" it tight. The fquall did not rnntinue long, and we were enabled
<* to fing the praifes of our Lord with enlarged hearts."
22d. A number of fharks were playing round the fhip; wc
caught two, each about five feet long ; after being cut into pieces,
and the entrails taken out, the heads jumped about the deck for a con-
fiderable time.
27th. The weather became now very unfettlcd, the winds va-
riable and fqually, attended with much thunder and lightning ; here
we alfo felt the power of a vertical fun, and, apprehenfive of its
fickening effedls, put in pracflice thofe methods which eminent
voyagers have ufed fo fuccefsfully : we firft waftied between decks
quite clean, and when dry fmnigated with tobacco and fulphur : at
fix every morning the hammocks were brought upon deck ; and thus
the berths, kept as clean as polfible, received the benefit of the frefli
air. From the i8th to the 2 2d of the month we failed through a
part of the fea which in the night exhibits a brilliant appearance ;
all round the fhip, in her wake, and where the fqualls ruffle the fur-
fiice, being grandly illuminated. Some aftert this to be occafioned
E 2
ftS FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1796.
by animalcules which thus glow in the dark, their fhining parts
being turned upwards by the turbulence of the waters. On the 27th,
in lat. 3° N. and long, 28° W. we got the frefh S. E. trade wind,
the falutary effedls of which were gratefully received ; for, fenfible
whence our blcfling comes, we had reafon to be thankful, that, after
the late weather, fo pernicious to European conftitutions, we were
all prefcrved in good health.
29th. We faw a very remarkable fhoal of porpoifes j they rofe as
if difciplined in a ftraight line extending about half a mile, making
fo fudden a noife and ruffle in the fea, that at firil: fight we took them
to be breakers. About midnight we croffed the equator in long.
30° W. i the variation by five fets of azimuths 5° 25' W.
In thefe latitudes we naturally expedled to meet calms and burning
funs, inftead of which we have a delightful breeze, which carries
us along about nine knots an hour ; and the fun-beams being broken
by clouds and a ha^e, the beat bath not exreedpH what we have often
felt in England. — How great is his mercy!
3 1 ft. At fix A. M. faw the ifland of Fernando de Noronha,
bearing W.N. W. nine leagues; then runS.S.W. forty-two miles,
and obferved in lat. 4° 31'' S. long, by account 32°i9^W. This
ifland, when it bore W.N. W. nine leagues, fhewed in detached
hills, the largefl: of which had the appearance of a church fteeple.
" This ifland," fays Antonio de Ulloa, *' hath two harbours, ca-
** pable of receiving fliips of the greateft burden ; one is on the
*• north fide, the other on the north- weft ; the former is, in every
*• refped, the principal, both for flicker, capacity, and the good-
*' nefs of its bottom ; but both are cxpofed to the north and weft ;
*' but thefe winds, particularly the north, are periodical, and of no
'* long continuance."
November I ft. After pafllng this ifland the wind continued at S. E.
till in lat. 7" S. it became variable, fhifting almoft every day from
about S.S.E. to E. and back by the eaftward to S. When there
was northing in the wind, the weather was moft unfettled and
Nov.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 29
rainy; when in the fouthern quarter we had generally fair weather,
though fometimes the fouth-eafters were accompanied with a little
rain.
The porter being exhaufted, the captain propofcd to iffue half a
pint of Madeira wine to the mifTionaries, which was thankfully
accepted.
2d. Caught two Portuguefe men of war in a bucket ; they are
beautiful pink-coloured bladders in the fhape of a curious (hell, and
put out innumerable arms like worms about a foot long, which, on
being touched, fting like nettles. They rife to the furface, and feud
before the wind like little fhips.
4th. We have to acknowledge the unfpeakable goodnefs f God
towards us j it is fix weeks this day fince we left St. Helen's, and
we are all in health, ftrength, and adivityj and have enjoyed an
uninterrupted favourable wind ever fince we quitted our native fliore.
6th. Celebrated the communion on the quarter-deck, covered
■with an awning to keep us from the fun — a very comfortable time
— enabled to rejoice in the Lord our flrength and righteoufnefs : Oh,
may his kingdom fpread far and wide !
7th. Met this evening to fend up our united prayers with our
brethren in England, for a bleffing on this and all miflionary labours
throughout the world : we began at half part four, to correfpond
with our brethren at feven o'clock, fuch being the difference of time.
9th. In lat. 18° 39' S. long. 37" 46' W. we founded on the outer
part of the Abrolhos banks in eighteen fathoms ; and while we were
running fixteen leagues on a S.W. courfe had irregular foundings,
viz. 18, 20, 22, 27, 38, 19, 17, 30, 25, coarfe fand with reddilh
ftones. At noon we obferved in lat. 19° 15' S.; our longitude by
lunar obfervation of fun and moon 38° 30', by account 38° 21' W.
From noon, with irregular foundings of nearly the fame depth, we ran
S.S.W. fourteen leagues farther, and could then find no bottom with
fifty fathom of line. Here we reckoned ourfelves to be in lat. 1 9°54'' S.
30 riRST MISSIONARY' VOYAGE [1796.
long. 38= 40' VV. and clear to the fouthward of the Abrolhos banks
law Eipirito Santo. Wc then ran S. by W. i W. fifty-one miles,
and obfcned in 20° 41' S. long. 39° W. ; afterwards running four-
teen hours upon a courfc, made good S.W. | W. one hundred and
four miles, wc founded in fifteen fathoms, upon a bank (as we fup-
pofc) which lies off Cape Thome.
I ith. At eight A.M. we faw the fcattered iflands which lie to
the northward of Cape Frio. The weather being hazy we had no
obfcr\ation. At half paft two Cape Frio bore N. § W. five miles.
It now fct in to rain very hard, with briik gales from the N.E. ; in
confequence of which we put the fliip under a fnug fail, intending
to fpend the night betwixt the Cape and the entrance of Rio de Ja-
neiro; ftanding in fliore to thirty fathoms, and off to forty-eight ;
a fandy bottom. 12th. At daylight we made fail and ran for the
harbour; but the breeze failing, and the tide againft us, it was one
o'clock in the afternoon before we reached the entrance. When
nearly there, a pilot-boat came alongfide, in which was the head har-
bour-mafler, who took charge of the fliip. In running in we gave
the fort of Santa Cruz a berth of half a cable's length ; keeping
the Ifle dc Cobras, which is flrongly fortified, about two points
upon the larboard bow, till the Benedidine monaflery, which is
large and white, appeared clear of its north fide ; then hauling up
towards the fliipping, we came to with our fmall bower in feven fa-
thoms water, and moored with a kedge to the northward, the mo-
naflery bearing S.W. by S. and Ifle de Enchados N. by W. As
foon as we had anchored, a guard-boat, with the proper officers,
came alongfide, in order to prevent fmuggling, and watch that no
perfon went from the fhip unaccompanied by a foldier. It is re,
marked, that the government in this colony ads towards ftrangers
with the moft jealous caution ; the captain, obliged to land when
we firfl entered the port, was attended with a military officer frorn
fort Santa Cruz, This evening fetting in with heavy rain, thunder.
Nov.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 31
and lightning, we ran our eledlric cohdudlors to the maft-hcads, a
precaution neceflary when within the tropics.
13th. Being now fafely moored, after a paffage of five thoufand
miles, through the mofl malignant climates, it is proper to paufe,
while we with grateful hearts adore the goodnefs of God, whofe
watchful providence has been confpicuoufly difplayed in our favour ;
preferving us in health, and guiding us in fafety to a port where
we can procure whatever refrefliments we want for the comfort of
the reft of our paflage. Befides thefe motives, an additional caufe
for thankfulnefs is, that the hearts of the miflionaries fecm as much
as ever devoted to the Redeemer's fervice, and their minds as ardently
intent as ever to promote his glory.
This day being the fabbath, the incumbent duties were obferved
in the fame manner as at fea ; the officer of the guard-boat attended,
conducting himfelf with much propriety, and at the clofe of the wor-
fliip exprefled his approbation. His curiofity, however, was much ex-
cited, and he feemed quite at a lofs to know what kind of people we
were j but either through modefty,or a fear of offending, declined making
any inquiries : afterwards, when more familiar, he faid that he never
before faw people behave fo peaceably and foberly on the firft day
after their arrival ; the reverfe, fwearing, noife, and drunkennefs,
being generally the practice.
14th. Since the captain was on fhore on our firfl arrival, no in-
dividual was allowed to go from the fhip till a further examination
by the fuperior officers, whofe vifit we were obliged patiently to
wait j and as the time of their coming was uncertain, we employed
the day on the neceffary duty of the fhip till about four in the after-
noon, when there came, in the mafler-attendant's boat, Ibme mili-
tary officers, the chief juftice, a phyfician, the captain of a fliip,
and an interpreter. Their bufinefs feemed to be trifling, repeating
only the queftions which had been put to the captain at the firfl :
however, though their fcrivcner was prefent, what they had now
done was not fufficient ; the captain, myfelf, and the fecond officer.
32 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [179^^.
were ordered to attend at the viceroy's palace, there to anfwer to the
fame firing of interrogations, viz. Whence we came ? whither
bound ? the nature of our voyage ? and what political r^ews we had
to communicate? When the whole was noted, duplicates written,
and figncd by us^ we were informed that the papers would be fent
to Lifbon, and that fuch fcrutinies were the common pra(ftice of the
colony.
This ceremony being over, we had leave to go on fhore when
we pleafed, thcmfelvcs taking care always to put a foldier in the boat
before flie put from alongfide ; and as foon as we landed, another
picked us up and followed us through the town, abiding clofe by us
till we returned again to the boat. From Monday till Saturday we
were employed refitting our rigging, watering our fhip, and pro-
curing live flock, wine, &c. for fea flore ; feveral forts of feeds and
plants were alfo got on board, fuch as it was fuppofed might flourifli
and be ufeful at Otaheite.
On Saturday the 19th, at four in the morning, we unmoored,
and with the mafler-attendant on board took the fhip nearer to the
harbour's mouth, that we might be in readinefs to embrace the firfl
leading breeze to fail.
About noon the fea wind fet in with a thick fog j in the after-
noon both boats were employed to -bring from the fhore a variety of
things which were {till unavoidably there.
20th. At feven in the morning we weighed with a light breeze in our
favour; but by the time we got abreafl of fort Santa Cruz it
changed againfl us: however, we kept plying to windward, and
after we had made a few tacks, the mafler-attendant took his leave.
At three P.M. we palled between Razor ifland and Round ifland.whcn
a frefh breeze fpringing up, we were very foon out of fight of land.
The city of Rio de Janeiro is at prefent the capital of Brazil, and,
fmce the difcovery of the diamond mines in its vicinity, has been
the refidence of the viceroy. It has for its defence cannon planted
upon the tops of the eminences, which command its entrance;
ISov.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. jj
befides three or four regular forts ; but none of thefe, taken fingly, can
be efteemed very ftrong, except Santa Cruz and Lozia, as they lie
confiderably diftant from each other : therefore, though guns may be
feen whatever way you turn your eyes, yet the place is not in reality
fo well fortified as it appears to be.
The inhabitants are a mixture of Portuguefe, mulattoes, and negroes,
and their number in the city and fuburbs cannot exceed two hundred
thoufand . The churches , monafteries, convents, the viceroy 's palace, the
hofpital, and a few private houfes, have a good appearance. The ftreets
are narrow, but ftraight and regular. Their windows and the upper
part of their doors being latticed with rods laid acrofs each other, and
clofe fliut all day, a flranger walking along, and feeing their women
and. children peep through thefe gratings , might fuppofe their dwell-
ings fo many prifons.
The government is fo ftridlly cautious, that the inhabitants can have
no intercourfe whatever with ftrangers without leave firft obtained
from the viceroy : a letter of credit which Captain Wilfon had, ad-
dreifed to a refpecflable merchant, afforded one inftance. On receipt
of the letter he exprelTed his readinefs to advance what fums the cap-
tain might have occafion for, and to affifl: him in any other way; but
before he could oblige him, he faid, he muft wait on the viceroy
with the letter.
This capital appears to exceed all popifli places in the parade of
religion. At the corner of every flireet is a figure of our Saviour and
the Virgin Mary placed in a niche, or kind of cupboard, with a cur-
tain and glafs window before it ; in the night, candles are lighted; and
here the people ftop to addrefs their devotions, and the whole night
long the voice of their chanting to thefe images may be heard. Even
the common beggar makes a trade of religion, by carrying a little
crucifix at his breaft, which I fuppofe he may buy for a penny ; at
this the poorer fort crofs themfelves, and the beggar bleffing them,
muft be paid for his benedidlion as well as the pope.
The eftabliflied port charges paid by all merchant-fhips are, on
,^ . FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1796.
cntcrino- 3/. 12s., and ^s. 6J. a day while at anchor; befides this,
forci'^n vcirds mufl; pay an interpreter commiirion for his bufinefs
with government, and on what he purchafes ; however, provifions
are very cheap. Rum, which they make in the colony, is of a tole-
rable quality ; and ihcir port wine, meliorated by paffing through the
tropical climates, is allowed to excel in goodnefs.
On entering this port, after a long paflage acrofs the Atlantic ocean,
the vaftncfs of the profpedl fills the mind with the moll plcafing fen-
fations. Paffing the narrow entrance between two lofty hills, the har-
bour fuddcnly widening fhews like an extenfive lake, where on differ-
ent parts lie many fcattcred iflands. On the left, the city, with the
fortifications and whitewafhed walls, prefents itfelf in a ftriking
manner, with fliipping at anchor, and boats bringing fupplies from
every quarter. Beyond all, to the north- weft, as far as the eye can
reach, a range of lofty mountains eredl their rugged tops : in their
bofoms, perhaps, thoufands of human beings are doomed, in fearch
of gold and diamonds, to fpend their days in mifery.
*The Obfervations of the Mijfionaries at their Entrance and Stay at
Rio Janeiro.
ON approaching the harbour the tops of the mountains were hid
in clouds, but the hills near the fhore covered with fruit-trees to their
very tops. Several fortified iflands were around us j and on the main
we faw a magnificent aquedud: of about fifty arches, extending from
one mountain to another. Here we began to obferve marks of their
fuperftition, for the crofs was eretTied on the tops of the hills, and on
their forts. On the Lord's day, the Portuguefe and Indians, who
were pur attendants on board, looked on very attentively, and be-
haved very ferioufly, during our worfhip, though unacquainted with
• 4
Not.] to the SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 55
the language ; whilft thofe who remained in the boat, though it was
Sunday, amufed themfelvcs with cards,
A large party of us going on fliorc, we had leave to fee the town,
accompanied by two officers, who treated us with much civility.
On landing we were fhockcd with the fight of a poor (lave worn out
with difeafe and labour, advancing with feeble crawl to the water's
edge ; and fhortly after beheld a fcene difgufting to humanity, a
cargo of human beings expofed for fale, naked, in the market-place;
whilft others, in companies of fix or fcven chained together, were
traverfing the flreets with burdens : we have feen their mafters flog
them like horfes or dogs, fo that our eyes have been filled with tears
at the fight. When fhall tliis barbarous traffic come to an end ?
The ftreets were full of fliops of every kind ; the druggifts' and
filverfmiths' made the noblefl appearance. We obferved a large refer-
voir of water, with three fountains difcharging into it, very fweet,
and convenient for the fliipping. Peruvian bark was IJ-. 5^. per
pound, cochineal lOJ". We wilhed to procure fome of the cochi-
neal plants, but did not fucceed } but we got various tropical feeds
and plants at a hofpitable cottager's, a little diftance from the city.
The viceroy's garden was beautifully interfperfed with oranges,
lemons, limes, and a number of other trees. There we faw a cro-
codile fpouting water, furrounded with curious fhell-work ; and in
another part, a boy holding a tortoife, from whofe mouth iffiied a co-
pious flream. The view of the harbour from one of the terraces is
magnificent. The fummer-houfes were adorned with beautiful
paintings reprefenting the working the diamond mines, and the
making fugar, rum, and other produce of the country.
We next vifited the palace. The colonel commandant and his lady
fhewed us the greatefl politenefs, and his lady was peculiarly atten-
tive to our wives ; and forry we were that we could make no acknow-
ledgments in return ; efpecially when we faw their rooted fuperfti-
tions, beads and crucifixes hung about their necks ; and the crofs
and their faints were at the corner of every flreet, and before their
E 2
jg FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1796.
lioufcs : to thefe they bow and crofs themfelves as they pafs. Indeed
they fcem funk in idolatry. The number of their priefts is im-
menfe. The town feemed not bigger than Briftol, and can hardly
contain more than two hundred thoufand inhabitants.
Our attention was arrefted by a grand proceffion of priefts, mms,
mourners, &c. entering one of their cathedrals, which was hung
with black, and blazing with lamps. The prayers w^re chanted,
and choruflcs fung, accompanied by a band of mufic. The fight
afflidled us ; to behold fuch external pomp of worfhip, and to dif-
cover no trace of the pure undefiled religion of Jefus.
They are very jealous of ftrangers on account of their diamond
mines, where fo many miferable Africans are yearly facrificed. We
paffed the military hofpital, on a healthy fpot about a mile from the
city J but I did not vifit it, fays the furgeon, left I might carry fome
infedlion on board. Not far diftant, in a beautiful valley, is the
viceroy's magnificent chapel ; and they are now eredling a large cathe-
dral near it, where a multitude of flaves were employed ; and to fhare
in the merit of the work, they informed us feveral youths of opulent
families afilfted, raifing a vaft fuperftrudlure on a fandy foundation.
I retired to my cabin in the evening, praying that the Lord would
fend hither his precious gofpel with demonftration of his fpirit and
power.
Upon the whole, we had every reafon to be fatisfied with our recep-
tion, and embraced the opportunity of a fliip failing for Europe to
convey intelligence to our friends.
Though the following letter addrcffed by the miffionaries to the
diredlors has been publiflied, it properly and defervedly claims a part
in this narrative j and with it we flaall clofe the tranfaftions at Rio
Janeiro.
Nov.]
TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 37
" On board the Duff, in the harbour of Rio de Janeiro,
" coaft of Brazil, South America, Nov. 1 5, 1796.
*' Dear and honoured Brethren,
"We think it our duty to inform you, we arrived at this place
' on Saturday, i2thinftant, after a pafllioe of feven weeks and one
■ day. We cannot fufficiently acknowledge the great goodnefs of
' Almighty God, in the fignal bleffings we have been favoured with,
' fmce our departure from our country and dear connexions therem.
' We have not experienced one day of real bad weather fince we were
'. launched upon the bofom of the great deep : winds and waves, in
' the hands of our God, have been propitious. The fiery heat of the
' fun, in paffing beneath its diredeft rays, hath been kindly checked
' by 'intervening clouds or cooling gales ; fo that we have crolTed
' thus far through the burning zone, without feeling thofe inconve-
- niences that we were naturally led to expect. Our vifitations of
" ficknefs have been partial and tranfient ; few having been afflidted,
■' and thofe, through divine goodnefs, fpeedily recovered : Mrs.
'« Eyre excepted, who, through weaknefs and infirmity incident on
" age, has enjoyed but little health fince our departure from England ;
" however, from the time of our arrival in this harbour, flie appeai-s
" greatly revived. The abundant fupply of every necelTary, fur-
'« niflied by our liberal friends, hath not fuffered us to feel the Imalleft
' ' want. Our attention has been chiefly direded to the readmg of the
•' accounts of the iflands of the South Sea, and acquiring fome know-
" ledge of the Otaheitean language, from the providential means put
«' into our hands ; other fludies of a fcientific nature we have not
«' been able to pay general application to. The worfliip of the Moft
" High has been duly and conftantly attended, without any omiffion
" but when neceffity or prudence made it warrantable. Whatever
" fpiritual trials we individually have fuflTered, moments of refrclh-
" ment from God and our Saviour Jefus Chrift have more than
" compenfoted. Harmony and concord continue among us as a body
38 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1796.
" cnfa<Tcd in one common caufe. We look forward to what remains
'♦ of our vova"-e and future operations with that concern our pecuhar •
" fituation demands. Our infufficiency we feel, and where our
•' itrength heth we know. We humbly hope and truft that the hand
" of God will continue with us, by his Spirit to diredl us, and by
" his power to guard us. We give ourfelves up to God, through
" Jcfus Chrifl: our Lord, and defire to lie placid in his arms.
" Dear brethren, the whole body of miffionaries, as the heart of'
" one man, prefent their Chriflian love to the body of dired:ors, the
" fociety, and all true lovers of Chrift and his gofpel. We pray the
" continuance of an interefl in your fervent prayers for us, and for
" our undertaking ; that we may acquit ourfelves as men, faithful
" to the caufe in which we are engaged, and be rendered mighty
" inflrumcnts in the hands of God for the converfion of the heathens
*♦ of the South Sea : fo flaall iniquity ftop its mouth, the wife and
'* prudent in their own eyes be afhamed, and the mighty power of
" God be difplayed in the eyes of the world, by his choofing the fool-
" ifh things of the world to confound the wife, the weak things of
" the world to confound the things which are mighty; the bafe
" things of the world, and things which are defpifed, and things
•' which are not, to bring to nought things that are.
" We remain, dear and honoured brethren,
" Your brethren in the gofpel of Jefus Chrift,
'* The whole body of miffionaries,
•* John Jefferson, Secretary."
Nov.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 39
CHAPTER V.
t
Departure from Rio Janeiro^ till our Arrival at Otaheite.
W E now proceeded on our voyage, in hopes of cffcding it by
the way of Cape Horn, which was our original intention. The
captain had laid in a frefli ftore of fuch provifions as this place af-
forded, with fugar, wine, and whatever might be neccflliry in the
long run before us.
20th. Lord's day. Brothers Eyre and Jcfferfon preached. Wc
had but little wind, and drifted out with the tide. In leaving this
harbour, and again launching into the deep, we thought on all the
mercies of our God, who had dealt fo wonderfully with us, and
protected us hitherto in fafety through the pathlefs ocean : we could,
with humble dependence, truft him for the future.
24th. We begin to find it colder as we run to the fouth ; the at-
mofphere, day and night, is free from clouds ; the breeze is mode-
rate ; we move as on a mill-pond, enjoying all the bleflings of life.
O may the goodnefs of the Lord lead us to repentance, watchful-
nefs, and unfeigned love of the brethren ! Thefe favourable com-
mencements, however, foon changed ; he fhall defcribe who felt
them. " 29th. We had a very pleafant day, and this evening I
" was delighted to fee the Ihip crowded down with fiils, and going
*' fwiftly before the wind with the flarry heavens over us. About
" eleven o'clock I was waked out of fleep, and much alarmed with
" the noife on deck. I hurried on my clothes and ran up the lad-
*• der, and to my great furprife found the Ihip under her bare poles.
" The fky, which had been fo ferene and bright, was covered
♦* with black clouds; the lightning came in flallies fo quick and
40 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1796.
' vivid, as took away my eye-fight for a time. BlefTed be God !
' it did not lafl more than two hours, when the ftorm abated.
' See what the Lord can do ! ' Let all the earth fear the Lord ; let
' all the inhabitants thereof fland in awe of him. He gathereth
' the waters of the fea together as an heap, he layeth up the
' depths as in his trcafure-houfe. Oh, how great is thy goodnefs,
' which thou hafl laid up for them that fear thee !'
" Amidfl the roaring of the fea
" My foul ftill hangs her all on thee;
" Thy conftant love, thy faithful care,
" Is all that faves me from defpair."
After being two months from England, and running fix thoufand
miles, this is the firft time we have experienced a contrary wind.
But to return to Mr. Wilfon's journal.
During the firft eight days nothing remarkable occurred. On
the 29th we obferved in lat. 34° 56' S. long. 49° 30' W. j had a
fine breeze wefterly and clear weather : towards the evening it veered
to the north, a gentle gale and a fmooth fea : but thefe favourable
circumfi:ances we forefaw would be of fliort continuance : to the
fouthward black clouds were rifing faft, and flying with great ve-
locity over our heads in a direftion quite contrary to the way the
wind at prefent blew. This jarring of the elements we confidered
as a fure prognoftic of an approaching ftorm ; therefore the captain
ordered the fmall fails to be taken in, alfo a fingle reef in the top fails.
Still a gentle gale continued as before till near midnight, when we
were attacked by a moft violent fquall, with a deluge of rain and
fmart thunder and lightning, the combined force of which obliged
us to haul our forefail clofe up, and furl every other fail : happily it
foon fubfided, but continued not long moderate : a ftron<r srale kt in
at louth, and the fea running high all the following day, moft of
the mifTionaries were again vifited with the fea-ficknefs.
Dec] to THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 4.
December ift. The gale moderated, and the fca faUing greatly,
a few of the fick recovered ; betwixt decks were cleared and dried,
the fliip put in order, and preparations made to encounter fuch ftorms
as we might now expect. The cow had fufFered much in the late
gale from repeated falls ; and as no hay had been got at Rio Janeiro,
on account of the rainy fcafon, the little we brought from home
was now expended, therefore no alternative remained but to kill the
' poor lean animal ; this was donq accordingly, but with rcliidiance,
as her milk had been very ferviceable to the women and children; wc
found her big with calf, which made her more regretted. In the
courfe of the night we experienced another fmart gale, which, though
not quite fo violent as the laft, was, like it, attended with rain, thun-
der, and lightning.
2d. At daylight we had better weather, and the fea was re-
markably fmooth, but very much difcoloured, the caufe of which
phenomenon is generally afcribed to the outfet of the tide from the
great river of Rio de la Plata : we founded, but found no bottom
with one hundred fathom of line. At noon our latitude, by ob-
fervation, was 38° 8' S. long. 50" 15^ W. Towards the clofe of
the day the flcy again put on a gloomy afpeft, and from a moderate
breeze at S. by W. the wind veered to S.W. by W. the gale in-
creafing, and the fea rifing very faft.
3d. In the morning the fea ran exceeding high, and the wind
blew a complete ftorm, which reduced us to a clofe- reefed main-top-
fail and forefail. Several of our live ftock died, either by the cold
or the fpray of the fea, fo that we were in danger of lofing the
whole of this invaluable prefervative of health. Not only the greater
part of the milTionaries were fea-fick, but fome of our feamen alfo.
Mrs. Eyre, already exhaufted by continued illnefs, feemed unable
long to fuftain thefe greater trials ; and refpeding thofe who were
not fick, they, and likewife the crew, felt the uncomfortable cffed:s
of fuch bad weather. Being thus fituated, the captain was appre-
G
^a FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1796.
henfive that in perfevering in our endeavours to double Cape Horn,
our raw, unfcafoned company of landnnen, women, and children,
might fall vidims to the repeated ftorms and colder weather, which
we mi"-ht expedl to meet with in the attempt : alfo, after doing our
beft, the certainty of getting round, in our circumftances, was
doubtful, as in the cafe of Bligh and others, whofe efforts, after
long ftruggles, proved in vain.
Therefore the captain, after deliberately weighing thefe and the
conncdled circumflances, rclinquifhed a plan, which to execute
required a fhip's crew of hardy failors, unaccompanied by tender
women and children, and adopted the refolution of going the eaftern
paflagej that is, to pafs a few degrees fouth of the Cape of Good
Hope, to fail to the fouthward of the fouth cape of New Holland
and New Zealand, keeping in the track of the wefterly winds till
near the meridian of Otaheite, and then to fleer to the northward
for that ifland.
At noon we obferved in lat. 39° ^' S. long. 50° W. Immediately
afterwards we bore away, fetting what fiiil the fhip could bear ;
and this we certainly had good reafon to do, confidering that before
wc could reach Otaheite by the ftraightefh courfe, we mufl run not
lefs than fourteen thoufand miles j whereas, from our prefent flation,
to go by way of Cape Horn, the diftance did not exceed feven thou-
fand miles ; and I am perfuaded, that to fome on board the defire
to fail round the world was more than a counterpoife to the diffi-
culties which might attend our pafTage round that cape. But fince
it is proper, that in all cafes felf-gratification ought to give place to
the beft-devifed means of obtaining the principal ends of our em-
ployment, fo now all were fully fatisfied that the late adopted mea-
fures were for the heft.
The fea running tremendoully high, we were apprehenfive of
being pooped by it, or otherwife receiving damage, therefore fhaped
our courfe right before it, fleering N.E. by E. and E.N.E. till it
Dec] to THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 43
gradually became fmoother. In the coiirfe of the firfl; four days wc
ran fix hundred and forty miles by our log, and were then detained
for a while by eafterly winds.
But to particularize the various occurrences of fo long a pafTage,
where the objedls which prefent themfelves have already been largely
treated of by men of ability and fkill in natural hiftory, would
afford but little entertainment, and tedious repetitions of winds and
weather only tire the patience ; therefore fhall deem it fufficient to
notice briefly the progrefs we made from time to time. Our miffionary
journals will fill the chafm.
December 5th. Our religious exercifes have hitherto not been
interrupted; we have maintained the regulated daily fervices between
decks when we could not affemble on the quarter. This day we
met our dear friends in England at their hour of prayer, and fent
up our petitions in union with tlieirs to the throne of grace for the
fuccefs of all miflionary labours.
6th. Frefli breezes : ran eight or nine knots an hour. How great
are his mercies !
8th. A great head fea; faw feveral whales playing around ; fome-
times they approached very near, clofe under the ftern, when we
could obferve them diftindtly, as they came to the furface to breathe,
throwing up the water to a vaft height with a tremendous noife.
We were ftruck with awe and folemnity — How wonderful and ma-
nifold are thy works, O God ! Heaven, earth, and fea, declare thy
glory: " Let every thing which hath breath praife the Lord."
The climate here, though advancing to the midft of fummer, ap-
peared to us cold as in England in the midft of winter.
The gale ftill blew from the weft with unabated violence : an awful fea
running mountains high ; the clouds hanging low, thick, and gloomy;
the fhip fcudding before the wind with furprifing eafe and fwiftnefs,
and fhipping very little water, confidering the greatnefs of the fea.
At thofe times we truly beheld the wonders of the Lord in the great
deep. The Ihip fometimes feemed hid between two lofty mountains of
G 2
44 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1796.
water, and then elevated to the immenfe fummit. Thefe fights of
the marvellous works of our God exalted our ideas of his greatnefs
and glory, and increafed our joy and praife ; affured that this awful
God is our God, and all his divine perfedions engaged in our be-
half. We have fometimes fat on the deck with facred pleafure and
coinpofure, viewing the towering billows on every fide, fome fol-
lowing us with their foaming tops, and feeming to threaten our de-
ftrudlion ; but inftcad of doing us any harm, only pufhing us on
the fafter to the haven where we would be. We were unable to
celebrate the Lord's fupper through the agitation of the veffel, and
turned our ufual fervicc into a meeting of prayer between decks ;
there confined from the fight of the fun, and the fea making often
a way over the fliip, the Lord made up every want by vouchfafing
his gracious prefence — we could adopt the language of the poet :
Thy fhining grace can cheer
The dungeon where we dwell j
'Tis paradife if thou art there.
If thou depart 'tis hell.
Though by changing our courfe we fhall lengthen our voyage
feven thoufand miles, and have two hundred and eleven degrees of
longitude to run, yet the fpeed with which we advance is amazing;
in the laft two days, fince Friday at midnight, we have run by the
log near five hundred miles. The Lord is fending us about as he
did his Ifrael of old, and no doubt for wife ends. Could we have
gone round Cape Horn, we might probably have reached the place
of our defi:ination much fooner : but we are fliort-fighted creatures,
and in the befi: hands ; let his will be done, who knows how mofl
fafely to lead us through the deep as through a wildernefs.
The immenfe fhoals of fifhes around us have often amufed and
aftoniflied us ; fome larger marching in great pomp, followed by a
train of fmaller, and approaching clofe to the ihip's fides ; the
Dec] to THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 45
flying-fifli rifing like a flock of birds out of the water, and often
falling on board; one fifteen inches long flew dircdlly againft our bell,
and was taken : they were very good eating. Thoufands of birds
alfo, about the fize of pigeons, flew around us.
20th. We re-croffed the meridian of London, and began counting
our longitude eaftward j and on the 24th that of the Cape of Good
Hope, in the latitude or track of 40° 20' S. with a fine gale wefterly
driving us along at the rate of eight or nine miles an hour.
24th. Chriftmas eve: fpent, fiysW. P. a comfortable evening with
mymcflmates, brother Shelly, brother Hodges and his wife; had a
good cake of our own making, and a very nice dilh of chocolate. My
mind was deeply imprelTed with the remembrance of deareft abfent
friends, whom I reprefented fitting round their fire-fide, and faying,
Ah, poor fouls, where are they now !
25th. After a fermon from Ilaiah, ix. 6. the Lord's fupper was
adminiflered : bleffed be God, I found it a very comfortable fcafon.
26th. Fine weather and briflc gales ; we failed two hundred and
forty miles the lafl: twenty-four hours.
29th. Obferved an eclipfe of the fun of about three hours con-
tinuance ; three parts being obfcured, it produced a perceptible
darknefs.
The miffionaries were now applying themfelves to the Otaheitean
language, the moil: diligent giving pleafing proofs of their defire
and aptnefs to acquire it. A part of each day was alfo appropriated
to reading the Rev. Mr. Greatheed's account of the South-Sea
iflands : this they flyled Miffionary Geography; from thence deriving
confiderable knowledge: their minds alfo became more exercifed, and
a diflTerence of opinion gradually increafed concerning the propriety
of their feparating, and which group appeared the mofl: eligible and
fafe to fettle in : fome preferred the Friendly Ifles, others Otaheite.
John Harris alone was for the Marouefas ; he had long ago made
that choice, and fiill remained unfhaken in his refolution, defiring
only to have one or two to accompany him ; and for that purpofe
46 " FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1796.
vas now ufing his intercfl: with the young men, few of whom as
yet Icemed inclined to fettle at the Marquefas. In confequence of
the probability of fiich a feparation taking place, a meeting of the
\\ hole body of mifTionaries was held, when, after a long converfation,
it was moved, " That eight perfons and the chairman (the captain)
" be chofen to draw up a code of church government for the future
*' condudl of their little fociety, together with certain religious
*' principles, to be figned by every individual." — Agreed. The
fame day the following perfons were chofen by ballot to compofe the
committee: viz. Bowell, Buchanan, Cover, Henry, JefFerfon, Lewis,
Main, and Shelly.
At another meeting it was moved, *' That two days in the week,
" Tuefdays and Thurfdays, an hour and half each, be appointed for
" the difcuflion of fome do(ftrinal part of God's word. The text
" of fcripture to be appointed by a moderator, chofen out of the
" body, who fliall publicly c'eclare the text at leaft two days be-
" fore the time of difcuflion ; the members to fpeak in rotation, and
" not to exceed a quarter of an hour each, and to divide the text under
" proper heads, which fliall be committed unto paper, and a copy
" of the fame to be delivered to the moderator." — Agreed. Mr.
Lewis chofen firfl moderator. The defign of this plan was to im-
prove the young men in the method of arranging their thoughts,
and to excite them to a more diligent fearch into the fcriptures. It
was moved alfo, at the fame meeting, " That MefTrs. Henry and
" Kelfo do, in conjundlion with the ordained miniflers, join in the
" regular difpenfiition of the word of God." — This was hkewife
agreed to.
Refpcding the health of both mifTionaries and crew, we may all
(two or three excepted) fay that we have enjoyed that blefling abun-
dantly. Mr. Clode was lately attacked with a fevere fever, and for
fome time delirious, but now in a way of recovery ; and Mr.
Buchanan, having fuffered continually by fea-ficknefs, was at pre-
fent brought very low, and for fome days confined to his bed, by a
TanI to the south-sea islands. 47
painful coftive complaint, which long refifted the power of "^^dlcine -
while his getting worfe every day increafed the concern all on board
felt through fear of lofing this humble and devoted miirionary.
But' to our great joy, December .9th, at the time when we thought
himexpirn^g, he obtained relief, and afterwards gradually recovered.
His happy experience of God's love, and joy of hope through all his
illnefs. was a fingular comfort and encouragement to all the brethren.
Tanuary ift, 1797- L^^tle did we apprehend on this day laft year
what was the decree of the Lord concerning us. We have now failed
twelve thoufand miles.
Come, my foul, a year is gone,
And thyfelf may'ft truly moan ;
Small the fruit to God is found.
Too much like the barren ground.
This new year may be my laft.
Former years are gone and part ;
Come, my foul, arife and pray.
Trim thy lamp this new-year's day.
od We were now making rapid advances towards the defired
iiland ; but little remarkable occurred.-The aquatic birds which
had daily vifited us in great numbers fince we came mto this fea,
feemed now to have left us, fo that for fome days we hardly faw one
of any kind. Whales were playing round the fhip, and it is proba-
ble that, had they been objeds of our voyage, we might have caught
fome of the many we faw. There were feveral of the brethren who
took great delight in ftanding with harpoons in their hands, watching
opportunities to ftnke the porpoifes that were ufiially iporting under
the bows, and one day Mr. Smith had the fuccefs to ftrike one, the
blubber of which produced four gallons of good oil ^ ^ .. ,
By the middle of January the committee of eight had nearly finiflied
48 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797,
the articles of faith and rules of church government. As yet no ferious
difference of fentiment had arifen among the miffionaries : one now
commenced rcg-arding thofe points of dodrine which have too often,
and with too great afperity, divided the church of the living God.
It had been the great objed: with the diredors to prevent as much as
poflible divcrfity of opinion among the brethren, being confcious on
whichever fide the truth might be found in the abflrufer points of
theological tenets, that all difputes among the teachers themfelves
fhould be guarded with the greateft precaution.
As the directors held the dodrinal articles of the church of Eng-
land in the fenfe ufually termed Calviniftic, and in correfpondence
with the opinion of their brethren in Scotland, contained in the Af-
fembly's catechifm ; it was an original decifion, that none Ihould be
fent out as miffionaries, who did not make a clear and explicit con-
fefTion of their faith, agreeable to this rule. We had every reafon
to believe that all the miffionaries were of one mind ; but it now ap-
peared, on the difcuffion, that two of the thirty had entertained
principles diflPerent from the reft, which occafioned fome debate.
The general fenfe of the body was, that it would be injurious to the
work to continue thofe as fellow-helpers whofe difference of fentiment
from their brethren might produce unhappy effedls among the hea-
then. However, after a variety of conferences on the fubjed:, con-
duced with the greateft calmnefs, the two who had differed from
the reft acknowledged that they had received convidion from the
arguments of their brethren, admitted the impropriety of their con-
dud, and were accordingly reftored to fellowlhip, and as, much
honoured and refpeded as ever. We remark this as a moft happy
trait of Chriftian confidence; and none have flaewn themfelves more
faithful to the caufe, nor has the fmalleft difference fince arifen be-
tween them on the fubjed.
29th. We paffed the meridian of the fouth cape of New Hollandj
and on the 14th of February were thirty-two leagues to the fouth-
ward of the fouth cape of New Zealand. On the 15th we were nearly
Feb.] to THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 4.,
antipodes to our friends in London. The day following a fea broke
againft our ftern, daflaed one of the windows to pieces, and fpoiled
feveral books in the cabin.
17th. We met with as heavy a florm from the caftward as any we
had before experienced ; the fea around us ran mountainoufly, and the
rain poured heavily upon us for about eight hours. However, as we
were all in good health, the effedls of it were but little felt. This
was in lat. 31° 30' S. and long. 209" 30' E.
The fenfations of the miffionaries on this occafion their own journals
will beft tell. This was the moft fevere and awful florm we had yet
experienced. The fea ran mountains high, but our little and incom-
parable bark, with which our God hath blefled us, lay to under
her main-ftayfail, and mounted over the waves like a duck with
feathers. We were bleffed with a calm and ferene ftate of mind, and
enabled to call: our care upon God, which we did in a fweet prayer-
meeting between decks. In the evening the wind died away, and
the lovely ftars fhewed their faces. Appointed Tuefday next to fign
the articles, and obferve a day of public thankfgiving for the fignal
and wonderful mercies we had received.
It is remarkable, that through the voyage the Lord has ufually ient
us moderate weather on the fabbath days, fo that our folemnitics have
been feldom interrupted.
2 1 ft. The articles of faith and rules of church government being
completed and approved by the whole of the brethren, they, at a
meeting this day, figned the fame, and held a day of thanklgiving.
A feparation becoming now more and more probable, they began
teaching each other the little handicraft arts they were mafters of,
fuppofing fuch might be ferviceable when they parted. Dr. Gillhani
gave likewife lectures upon a prepared fkeleton of the human body,
and inftrutfted them in the ufe of the medicines.
This afternoon we experienced a remarkable interference of Divine
Providence in our favour. The pitch-kettle being placed on the fire
by the carpenter whilft calking the decks, the man who was left
H
50 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
in care of it fuftl-rcd it to boil over : immediately it blazed up with
furprifing fury ; he had, however, the prefence of mind to lift it
oft' the fire, and prevent the dreaded conflagration. Though the
caboufe was fo dry, and the forefail hanging down over it, which
muft have inftantly communicated the flames to the rigging, through
the goodnefs of God no harm was done, and the fire put out in an
inllant. O, the wonders of his care, who hath faid, " he that
" touchcth you, toucheth the apple of my eye."
Ninety-feven days had now palled fince we left Rio Janeiro, and
except one veffel which we met with a week after our departure, we had
not in all this time feen either fhip or fhorc, and had failed, by our
log, thirteen thoufand eight himdred and twenty miles, a greater
diflance probably than was ever before run without touching at any
place for refrelhment, or feeing land. But at length, tired with
beholding only a vacant horizon, and the familiar objeds the fea
daily prefented to our view, all began to look with eager expcdation
of defcrying a South-Sea ifland ; which, even in the minds of thofe
whofe reafon and intelligence informed them better, fancy had fioured
as differing from all the lands or iflands on which they had ever fixed
their eyes before. However, the time was now arrived when this
curiofity was to be in part gratified. About feven in the morning
Toobouai was difcovered from the fore-yard by one of the feamen,
bearing S. E. by E. eight or nine leagues off, fliewing at this diftance
like two feparate iflands, but on our near approach the low land
which connedls the hills appeared. The wind at N. E. being unfa-
vourable, we fl:ood towards the ifland, but the fun fet before we got
fufiiciently near to difcern the natives ; neither did we fee any canoes.
The wind at this time fliifting to E. by S. we laid our courfe upon
the flarboard tack, and failing along the weftern fide pretty near the
fliore, though in the duflc of the evening, faw that a border of low
land ran from the flcirts of the hills, and upon it abundance of cocoa-
nut and other trees. The fea was breaking violently on the reefs,
efpccially to the N. E. where they extend a long way off.
F£B.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 51
It is now fourteen weeks fincc we lafl faw the land, which was
Rio Janeiro, and it mufl be conkfTed, it is very dehghtful to behold ;
though we were not in any want of it, neither has our voyage been
attended with any inconvenience. The Lord, in providence, has
fupplied our neceffitics in a moft wonderful manner. BlefTcd be God,
we have not found the want of a drop of good water to quench our
thirft, nor bread, &c. to fatisfy our hunger, and here we are all the
living monuments of his mercy to praifc him.
The wind blew frefh from Toobouai, and the intention of our
captain was not to go near this ifland; but, for the fake of fome who
were defirous of feeing it, we tacked to windward, and towards
evening got within a few miles of it : he thought it not prudent to
land on account of the natives being prejudiced againft the Englilh
through the mutineers of the fhip Bounty, who had deflroyed near
a hundred of them. But we truft to vifit them at fome future time,
to remove their prejudice with the glad tidings of the gofpel of peace.
A fine breeze continuing all the night, we faw no more of Toobouai.
This ifland was difcovered by Captain Cook in the year 1777;
and upon it the unhappy Fletcher Chriflian, with his companions,
the mutineers of the Bounty, attempted a fettlement in 1789. They
had with them fome of the natives of Otaheite, and live ftock of
different forts. Notwithftanding the oppofition they met with from
the natives on their firft arrival, they warped the fhip through the
only opening in the reef; then landing, chofe a fpot of ground,
built a fort thereon, and taking their live ftock on fliore, they in-
tended, had the natives proved friendly to their flay, to have de-
llroyed the Bounty and fixed themfelves there : but their own unruly
condudl alienated the natives from them, who withheld their wo-
men, which they were ready to feize by violence : they excited the
jealoufy of the chiefs by a friendflrip formed with one of them in
preference to the reff; they were difunited among themfelves, and
many longed for Otaheite : they refolvcd to leave Toobouai, and carry
with them all the live ftock which they had brought, the benefit of
H 2
^^ FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
\\ hich the Toobouaians began to underftand, and were unwilling to
fee them again all colledled and removed. This caufcd the firft
brawl between the Otaheitean fervants, who were driving in the
hogs, and the natives. Infblence and want of gentlenefs and con-
ciHation, led to all the bloody confeqiiences which enfiied. The
natives were numerous, and fought with great courage, forcing the
mutineers to avail themfelves of a rifing ground, where, with their
fuperior ikill, the advantage of fire-arms, and the aid of the Ota-
heiteans, who fought bravely on this occafion, they at lafl came off
vidlorious, with only one or two of themfelves wounded, whilfl: the
dead bodies of the Toobouaians covered the fpot, and were afterwards
thrown up in three or four heaps. Thus finding that no peaceable
iettlemcnt was now to be obtained in this place, they re-fhipped the
live flock, abandoned their fort, and taking their friendly chief on
board with them, weighed anchor and fleered towards Ohaitapeha
bay in the ifland of Otaheite. On their paffage thither, it is faid,
Chriftian became very melancholy, confining himfelf to the cabin,
and would hardly fpeak a word to any perfon ; lamenting, moll: pro-
bably, that the rcfolutions he had formed without deliberation, and
executed with rafh hafle, had now involved his own life and thofe
of his adherents in mifery. As foon as they anchored in Ohaitapeha
bay at Otaheite, thofe who wilhed to ftay there went on fliore ; but
nine of the mutineers, and alio fome of the native men and women,
remained on board. With thefe, Chriftian cutting the cable in the
night, put to fea, and fleering to the N.W. has never been heard of
lince.
Here it may be proper, before we approach the deflined illand,
to notice the Heps which the brethren were taking, and what new
regulations were made previous to their arrival. Near fcven months
wereelapfed fince they embarked at Blackwall, during which time it
is reafonable to fuppofe, that, being clofely penned together in a fliip,
they were now become well acquainted with each other's tempers
and difpofitions, and that a fimilarity in thefe would naturally attradt
Feb.] to the SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 53
peculiar regard and fricndfhip. Several of the brethren having
hinted to the captain which group of iflands they preferred, the feniors,
who had always declared for Otaheite, requefted that each one fhould
be obliged, on a day appointed, to fignify in writing the place to
which he wiflied to go, and iign the fame with his name. To this
the captain replied, that they might do fo if they pleafcd ; but that
he himfelf would adl as clofely agreeable to the dilcretionary inftriic-
tions given by the dired:ors as future circumftances would allow.
By our progrefs to the eaft, the monthly prayer-meeting had been
held on Tuefday morning, a quarter before feven, to correfpond with
our brethren at home, who met on Monday evening. A fpirit of
prayer and fupplication feemed evidently poured out upon us in behalf
of the poor heathen ; every heart expanded with love, and glowed
with ardent defires to proclaim falvation to them through the blood
of the Lamb*
Having frequently difcufled the fubjed: of the feparation of the bre-
thren among the three groups of iflands, the Marquefas, the Society,
and Friendly Iflands ; February 27th, being the day appointed, the
fociety met, and the bufinefs of the day was opened in the ufual man-
Tier, when there appeared for each group as in the following lift :
OTAHEITE.
NO, NO.
1 Rev. J. F. Cover 10 Mr. Wm. Henry
2 John Eyre 11 — P. Hodges
3 John Jefferfon 12 -— R. Haflfell
4 Thomas Lewis 13 — E. Main
5 Mr. H. Bicknell 14 — H. Nott
6 — B. Broomhall 15 — F. Oakes
7 — J. Cock 16 — J.Puckey
8 -^ S. Clode 17 — Wm. Puckey
9 — J. A. Gillham 18 — Wm. Smith;
which, with five women and two children, make in all twenty-
five for Otaheite.
FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797,
3+
TONGA TABOO. SANTA CHRISTINA.
NO.
, Mr. B. Bowcll
— J, Buchanan
NO.
I Mr. J. Harris
3 — Wm. Crook
3 — James Cooper
4 — S. Harper
^ S. Kelfo
6 — ]. Nobbs
7 W. Shelly
8 G. Veefon
9 — J.Wilkinfon
IQ — — Gaulton
The above bufinefs being fettled, the captain intimated to thofe
intended for Otaheite, that, as we were drawing near that ifland, it
would be proper for them to choofe their committee and prefident.
This they accordingly proceeded to do ; Mr. Jefferfon was eled:ed
prefident by a great majority, and McfT. Cover, Lewis, Henry, and
Broomhall, to compofe the committee. Mr. Cover was appointed
fecretary and ftore-keeper, and Lewis librarian. It was then agreed,
that the prefident, fecretary, &c. fliould hold their office for fix
months, and that the committee fhould go out by rotation, one every
three months. Matters being thus fettled, they began to encourage
each other to enter without fear upon their work, and by a zealous
and fleady perfeverance therein to manifeft themfelves worthy of the
high charadlers of miffionaries.
Our paflage from Toobouai was much longer than we expelled,
owing to variable winds from the N.W quarter and very unfettled
weather.
March I ft. From two o'clock in the afternoon till four it rained
exceflively hard ; more than a tun of water was caught, which gave
the mifTionaries afterwards an opportunity of walliing their linen,
March.] TO THE SOUTH-SE.\ ISLANDS. ^5
and putting it in order previous to their landing. From four until
feven was an interval of fair weather ; but now the clouds gathcrin<i-
thick, and wearing a gloomy afpcdt, a mod alarming night com-
menced : orders were given to furl every fail except the forefail, and,
hauling it clofe, we lay to. The rain began heavier than before, ac-
companied, from nine till midnight, with fliarp vivid lightning and
awful claps of thunder, which, on account of its nearnefs, fliook
the Duff at every clap. The rain, attended with fqualls, continued
till three in the morning; then abated. The fea was not high,
neither was the wind very violent ; neverthelefs the darknefs and con-
flid: of the elements formed a night fo truly difmal, that all on board
confcffed they had never witneffed the like before. We therefore,
fay the miffionaries, took to the wings of faith, and fled to the God
of our mercies ; and when we had fung an hymn, committing our-
felves to the protedtion of the Moft High, we retired to reft. The
next morning we returned our folemn and grateful thanks for the
protedlion of that night.
After the ftorm nothing material occurred till Saturday morning,
March 4th, when we beheld the long- wifhed- for ifland of Otahcitc,
but at a great diftance. At noon the extremity of the leffcr peninfula
bore from N. by W. to N. | W. twelve or fourteen leagues off: with
the wind at N. E. we ftood towards it until ten at niirht, then
tacked three or four miles fouth of the reefs off Atahooroo, and
ffanding off and on till daylight, fleered to go between the weft end
of the ifland and Eimeo.
The captain has mentioned in converfation what we cannot wifli
fliould be omitted, that the conflidls he endured upon this near ap-
proach to the place of his deflination are not to be defcribcd ; he felt
fomething of that travailing in birth which St. Paul mentions ; and
his anxiety refpedling his brethren and their reception was a burden
almoft too heavy for him to bear — happily a gracious God quickly
delivered him out of all his fears.
36 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE ['797-
CHAPTER VI.
Occurrences on landing at Otaheitc, and during the Jirjl Vijit to that
IJJand.
[Sunday, March 5, 1797.]
1 HE morning was pleaflmt, and with a gentle breeze we had by
fevcn o'clock got abrcaft of the diftridt of Atahooroo, whence we
faw fcveral canoes putting off and paddling towards us with great
fpeed i at the iame time it fell calm, which being in their favour,
we foon counted feventy-four canoes around us, many of them
double ones, containing about twenty perfons each. Being fo nu-
merous, we endeavoured to keep them from crowding on board;
but in fpite of all our efforts to prevent it, there were foon not lefs
than one hundred of them dancing and capering like frantic perfons
about our decks, crying, " Tayo ! tayo!" and a few broken fen-
tences of Englifli were often repeated. They had no weapons of any
kind among them ; however, to keep them in awe, fome of the
great guns were ordered to be hoifled out of the hold, whilft they,
as free from the apprehenfion as the intention of mifchief, cheerfully
aififled to put them on their carriages. When the firfl ceremonies
were over, we began to view our new friends with an eye of in-
quiry : their wild diforderly behaviour, flrong fmell of the cocoa-
nut oil, together with the tricks of the arreoies, leffened the favour-
able opinion we had formed of them j neither could we fee aught
of that elegance and beauty in their women for which they have been
fo greatly celebrated. This at firft feemed to depreciate them in the
eftimation of our brethren ; but the cheerfulnefs, good-nature, and
generofity of thefe kind people foon removed the momentary preju-
March.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 57
dices. One very old man, Manne Manne, who called hiinfclf a
prieft of the Eatooa, was very importunate to be tayo with the cap-
tain ; others, pretending to be chiefs, lingled out fuch as had the ap-
pearance of officers for their tayos ; but as they neither exercifed
authority over the unruly, nor bore the fmalleft mark of diflinftion,
we thought proper to decline their propofals till we knew them and
the nature of the engagement better. At this they feemed afto-
nifhed, but ftill more when they faw our indifference about the hogs,
fowls, and fruit, which they had brought in abundance. We en-
deavoured to make them underftand, but I think in vain, that this
was the day of the Eatooa, and that in it we durft not trade : but
their women repulfed, occafioned greater wonder. They continued
to go about the decks till the tranfports of their joy gradually fub-
fided, when many of them left us of their own accord, and others
were driven away by the old man, and one named Mauroa, who
now exercifed a little authority. Thofe who remained were chiefly
arreoies from Ulietea, in number about forty ; and being brought to
order, the brethren propofed having divine fervice upon the quarter-
deck. Mr. Cover officiated ; he perhaps was the firft that ever men-
tioned with reverence the Saviour's name to thefe poor heathens.
Such hymns were feledled as had the mod harmonious tunes ; firft,
" O'er the gloomy hills of darknefs j" then, " Blow ye the trum-
" pet, blow j" and at the conclufion, " Praife God from whom all
•' bleffings flow." The text was from the firfl: epiftle general of John,
chap. iii. ver. 23. " God is love." The whole fervice lafl:ed about
an hour and a quarter. During fermon and prayer the natives were
quiet and thoughtful ; but when the finging ftruck up, they feemed
charmed and filled with amazement ; fometimes they would talk
and laugh, but a nod of the head brought them to order. Upon the
whole, their unweariednefs and quietnefs were afl:onifhing ; and,
indeed, all who heard obferved a peculiar folemnity and excellence
in Mr. Cover's addrefs on that day.
I
5S ' FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
\Vc hiul hithcno rcvcived very unfatisfiidory anfwers to our in-
quiries after the Matilda's crew ; but at laft favv two of thcni
coming in a canoe : thefe were Swedes, dreffed in the teboota and
niaro as the natives, and tattowed alfo about the legs and arms :
having got on board they were called into the cabin, and gave the
following account of themfelves : — The youngcfl, named Andrew
Cornelius Lind, about thirty years of age, a native of Stockholm,
faid, that after the lofs of the Matilda they took to the boats, and
bearing down towards Otahcite, landed on the 6th of March 1792,
on the fouth fide of the ifland ; they were immediately plundered
of all they had, but afterwards treated kindly by the natives. Since
that, the captain and moft of the crew had gone homeward by dif-
ferent methods : fix of them decked one of their boats, and fet off
towards New Holland ; but it was improbable they wovvki ever
reach thither. The other, whofe name is Peter Haggerftein, aged
forty, a native of Elfinfors in Swedifli Finland, was left here by
Captain New of the Daedalus. They both fpoke tolerably good
Englifh, and being well acquainted with the Otaheitcan tongue, we
entertained a hope that they would prove of great fervice.
From them we learnt, that the old man who was fo folicitous to
have the captain for a tayo, had formerly been king of Ulietea, was
a near relation of the royal family, and of confiderable confequence
in the iflands, being chief priefl over Otaheite and Eimeo. Upon
this, Manne Manne was invited into the cabin and treated kindly.
He now redoubled his importunities to gain the captain for his
friend, who dcfired him to wait till to-morrow, when he would con-
fider of it. The Swedes further informed us, that the former Otoo
had transferred his name and tile of Earee rahie (or king) to his fon,
and had now afliimed the name of Pomarre : that in a conteft: about
twenty months ago with Temarre, the chief of all the fouth fide of
the greater peninfula, Pomarre's party prevailed, and fubjeded his
adverfary to a flate of dependance, and foon after Tiaraboo was con~
March.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 59
qucrcd ; and thus the whole ifland became fubjedl to hiin, or rather
to his foil Otoo, and has remained fo ever fmcc. Motuara, the chief
of Eimeo, being dead, Pomarre laid claim to the government of that
ifland ; and having only the wieiow of the deceafed to contend witb,
was, afterafew Ikirmifhes, acknowledged as chief, or king. Thus
was the power of Pomarre and his fon Otoo fo greatly increafed,
that none dared any longer to difpute their authority.
6th. About thirty of the natives, chiefly arreoies, intending to go to
Matavai, remained on board all the night, and part of the following-
day, till we anchored in the bay; as did the two Swedes ; and flept
on the deck. The miflionaries watched; all perfedly quiet. At
daybreak the old pricfl awoke, and being impatient to fecure the
tayofliip with the captain, awoke him alfo. There was now no
refufing him any longer, as even good policy was on his fide; there-
fore they exchanged names, and Manne Manne, wrapping a long
piece of cloth around the captain, and putting a teboota over his
head, requeued for himfelf a mufket, fome fhot and gunpowder :
but being told that none of thefe were to fpare, and that he fhould be
amply repaid for what friendly offices he might do us, he feemed
fatisfied. All the forenoon was employed in working up without
the reefs of Oparre ; but gaining little ground, at one P. M. we came
to anchor in Matavai bay, Point Venus bearing N. E. by E. and
One Tree hill S. f W. diflant from the beach about three quarters of
a mile. We had not been long at anchor, when all the arreoies, both
men and women, fprung into the water and fwam to the fhore :
their place, however, was foon fupplied by others, who furrounded
the fliip with hogs, fruit, and other articles : of thefe we took a
little for prefent ufe; but the old prieft having promifed to fupply
all our wants by next morning, confequently little was done in the
trading way.
Almoft the whole afternoon it rained hard till near four o'clock,
when we had fome intervals of fliir weather ; then the captain,
Manne Manne, the two Swedes, with brother Cover, Henry, and
I a
^^ FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
a few more of tlie miflionarics, went on Hiorc in order to examine
a large houfc ftanding on the extremity of Point Venus. They called
it E Fwharre no Prltane (the Britifli Houfe), and faid it had been
built by Pomarre for Captain Bligh, who had faid he fliould come
back and refide there. It is a large and fpacious building of an
oblong figure, one hundred and eight feet long and forty-eight wide.
In the middle are four large wooden pillars about eighteen feet
high, on which the ridge-tree is fupported. About three feet within
the fides ftand pillars all round, about nine feet long, and fix feet
diftant from each other. On the top of thefe a plank is let down,
which runs round the whole houfe; from thence to the ridge large
poles are fet up, and handfomely bound round with fine matting
about eighteen inches afunder : on this the thatch is laid, of palm-
tree leaves moft beautifully worked. About one foot from thefe pil-
lars, on the outfide, runs a fkreen of bamboo all round, except
about twenty feet in the middle on both fides. — Thus hath the Lord
appeared to fet before us an open door, which we truft; none Ihall
henceforth be able to fhut.
The chief of the diftridl (an old man named Pyteah) welcomed
them to the ifland, faid that the houfe was theirs, and fhould be
cleared for their reception the next day. He then fhewed them the
pidture of Captain Cook, upon the back of which were written the
names of his Majefty's fhips and their commanders who had vifited
Matavai fince that great navigator's time. The natives on fhore
feemed tranfported with the idea of men coming purpofely from Pre-
tane to fettle among them : this fet thofe miffionaries off who were
to fix here, in very high fpirits.
7th. Manne Manne was as good as his word, coming early
alongfide with three hogs, fome fowls, bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and
a quantity of their cloth ; the whole intended as a prefent for his
tayo, the captain. He made a long oration, defcriptive of all the fhips
and captains which had touched at Otaheite, with the names of the
gods of Ulietea ; but faid, that Otaheite had none but from him.
March.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 6i
acknowledging the Britifli God to be the beft, and that he fhould
requcft Otoo to worfhip him, and to order the people to do the fame.
Soon after Peter the Swede arrived from a diftant part of the ifland
with more fruit, and a remarkably large hog, the two fides of which,
exclufive of the head and entrails, weighed three himdred and forty
pounds ; it had on each fide of its mouth two large tufks ; for ufe it
was far too fat for us, and as many fmall pigs were brought in the
courfe of the day, but little of it was eaten.
Manne Manne, the aged high-prieft, had brought five of his
wives with him on board, not one of which exceeded fifteen years
old, and defired he might fleep in the cabin; and, according to the
cuftom of the country, very cordially defired Captain Wilfon, his
tayo, to take his choice, and could hardly perfuade himfelf he was
ferious in declining the offer ; nor failed the next morning to inquire
of them which he had chofen. This brouo;ht on a converfation on
the nature of their cuftoms ; the captain explained to the old prieft,
how little fuch a ftate of polygamy was fuited to happinefs ; that
no woman could be either fo attached, faithful, affectionate, or
careful to promote domeflic felicity, as where the heart was fixed
on one objedt without a rival. The old prieft did not at all relifh this
dodirine, and faid, fuch was not the cuftom of Otaheite ; but the
ladies highly approved, and faid the Pritane cuftom was my ty,
my ty, very good.
Manne Manne was riow very defirous for us to go to Eimeo with
the fhip, and there land the miftionaries under his proted:ion, making
ufe of all his rhetoric to perfuade the captain, and bringing the
two Swedes, whom he feems to have much under his command, to
prove that Pomarre never ad:cd honourably by the Englifli, or any
other, after he had done with their fervices ; that themfelves had
affifted him in his wars, had been the principal inftruments of his
fuccefs } but, fince his turn was ferved, he would hardly give them
a fmall hog. This, and all they urged, might have gained credit
with us, as all the late voyagers have related incidents which mark
6i FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
this chief's charadcr with felfiflincfs ; but, on the other fide, it
might be inferred, that thefe Swedes, after they had lent their af-
firtance, might be unrcafonable, and even infolent in their de-
mands, and by fuch condiid render it neceflliry for Pomarre to treat
them with bare civility only. Therefore, concluding them preju-
diccil, and the old priell: only arguing from views of intereft, it
was rcfolvcd, that as Otaheite was the mofi: eligible ifland, the fet-
tlement fhould firfl: be made there j and the friendfliip and protedtion
of Pomarre and his fon Otoo be courted by kindnefs and attachment
to hi^ intcrcfl:, to be cxprelTed and fliewn on every occafion ; but
never to take any part in their wars, except as mediators. — In the inter-
val of fair weather, betwixt daybreak and eight o'clock, we pur-
chafed a few things from the canoes alongfide, merely to pleafe them;
for the liberality of our friends had left us no other plea.
The rain beginning again as violent as before, prevented the mif-
fionaries landing till near eleven in the forenoon ; when the captain,
Mr. JefFerfon (prefident), with a few more of the miflionaries, went
on fliore, accompanied by Manne Manne and Peter. The natives
had aflfembled upon the beach to the number of four or five hun-
dred, and as the boat approached fome ran into the water, and lay-
ing hold of her hauled her aground ; then took the captain and
milTionaries on their backs, and carried them dry on fhore. They
were received by the young king (Otoo) and his wife Tctua, both
carried on men's fhoulders ; each took the captain by the hand, and
in dumb filence furveyed him attentively, looking in his face and
minutely examining every part of his drefs : they beheld the brethren
alfo with much the fiime curiofity. The queen opened Mr. Cover's
fliirt at the breafl: and fleeves, and feemed aftoniflied at fo clear a
fight of the blue veins. That this fliould be the cafe now, after fo
many vifits from Europeans, may furprife fome; but let fuch con-
fider, that though the oldell and the middle-aged have been fully gra-
tified in thefe refpedls, the young ones have as yet feen very little;
for there could be but fmall difference between therafelves and the
March.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 63
dark complexions of the naked Ihipwrecked failors who had lately
taken refuge amongft them.
The captain now informed the king, through Peter as inter-
preter, that our only inducement for leaving Prctane to come and
vifit them was to do them good, by inflruding them in the beft
and moft ufeful things j and for this end, fome good men of
our number intended to fettle among them ; requiring, on their
part, the free gift of a piece of land fufficiently ftocked with bread-
fruit and cocoa-nut trees, and fo large as to contain a garden and
admit of houfes being built upon it ; that this land fhould be their
own; that they would not, on any account, intermeddle in their
wars, nor employ their arms but for felf-defence ; and at all times
fliould live free and unmolefled among them : to which if he con-
fented, they would ilay on the iflandj if not, they would go
elfewhere. Much pains were taken to make this plain ; but as Otoo
appears to be a vacant-looking perfon, I doubt whether he under-
ftood the half of it, though he iignificd the large houfe was our
own, and we might take what land we pleafed.
After this, Manne Manne flood up in the middle of the ring, and
made a long fpeech, paffing many encomiums on Pretane. When
all was over, the king, ftill holding the captain by the hand, led him
to the houfe, thence to the beach, and fo on j till, tired, he requefted
to return on board. When arrived at the boat, Otoo defircd to hear
the mulkcts fired, and, to gratify him, the four they had were dif-
charged twice; with which compliment he feemed highly pleafed.
After dinner Otoo and his wife came off, each in a fmall canoe,
with only one man paddling : whilfl: they went feveral times round
the Ihip, the queen was frequently baling her canoe with a cocoa-nut
iTiell. This may help to form an idea of what a queen is in Otahcitc.
They would not venture on board, becaufe whcrcibever they come is
deemed facred, none daring to enter there afterwards except their
proper domeftics.
g^ FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
He appears tall and well made, about feventeen; his queen handfome
and finely proportioned, about the fame age, and always carried about,
on fhore, on men's Ihoulders. The king appears thoughtful, fpeaks
little, but furveys things with attention. The mifTionaries fuppofed
fomcthing majcilic in his appearance, but the captain thought him
ftupid, and to difcover little capacity. As he paddled round the lliip
he was offered the compliment of firing the great guns, but he begged
us not, as he was afraid, and the noife would hurt his ears.
Knowino- there were women and children on board, they expreffed
a wifh to fee them, and when they walked to the fhip's fide to fliew
thcmfclves, they fet up a cry of admiration and wonder. The fky
darkening, they made towards fhore. We had loofed our fails to
dry, and before we could furl them there came on fuddenly a fmart
fquall from the N. E. attended with heavy rain, lightning, and
thunder ; while it lafled, the fhip drove about a cable's length, from
thirteen fathoms into ten.
At a meeting of the committee it was refolved, that, as the houfe
was now clear, they fliould land this evening, in order to prepare for
the reception of the women ; but the rain continuing, prevented.
8th. It rained hard all the morning till about nine o'clock, when it
cleared up, and the mifTionaries went on fhore with their chefls and
beds, and took pofTclTion of their houfe. By the captain's defire, " I,'*
fays Mr. Wm. Wilfon, " followed to affift them in planning their
" fcparate apartments. A vafl concourfe of the natives had gathered
" on the beach, watching who fhould land in the pinnace; among
" them were Otoo and his wife, carried upon men's fhoulders, as on
"" the preceding day. This, I underfland, is always the cuflom
'• when they go beyond the precindts of their dwelling. The queen
" ufed the fame freedoms with me as flie had done the day before
" with Mr. Cover, and, when gratified, put my fhirt neck and
" fleeves again in order. With one holding each hand, I was led
*• about for a confiderable time, and might perhaps have been fo
March.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 6$
" moft of the day, had I not intimated that I had bufinefs to do
*• within the houfe. He immediately walked with me to the door,
" but would not enter, becaufe the houfe would then become facred
'• to himfelf,
" However, before he let me go, he introduced a woman named
" Whycridde, the fiftcr of Iddcah, and alfo wife of Pomarrc : her
" Otoo wiflied me to take as a tayo. And confidering that I was
" but a tranfient vifitor, who knew not how far a refufal might
" difoblige him, I confcnted to exchange names, and was imme-
" d lately wrapped in cloth ; befides, in the courfe of the day, feveral
" hogs, both alive and ready dreffed, were fent meas prefcnts."
The firft thing we fet about with the houfe was to clofe it quite
round with the thicker fort of bamboo, fixing a door on each fide, and
by this means to keep the natives from crowding fo much upon us. >
The feveral births or apartments were next planned, and partitions of
fmaller bamboo begun ; but in confequence of the great diftance the
natives had to go up the valley for thefe bamboos, the work went
but flowly on i though one man ftripped his own houfe to fupply
us. In the arrangement, the married people had a part of one fide
to themfelves, and the fingle men the other fide : all thefe apartments
were at one end, and chofen by lot. Next to them were marked out
a fl:ore-room, library, and a place for the dodlor and his medicines.
To enclofe the whole, a partition went from fide to fide, with two
lock doors. The remaining fpace was left for a chapel, and into it
the outer doors opened.
Several of the arreoies of Ul.ietea having arrived here about the fame
time as we did with the fliip, they with their heivas made much the
fame ftir in Matavai as a company of flrolling players often do in the
fmall villages of our own country. Probably the hopes of pleafing
the Engliih fbrangers was alfo a fpur to their exertion, for either in
our fight or our hearing they were engaged the whole day in fome
fport or other. In the afternoon they coUedled in great numbers
before the door of our houfe, and began a kind of box-fighting or
K
es FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797,
wrcftlino-. Fidl; forming a ring, within it flood about a dozen of the
Hoiitcft fellows, witli their backs to the crowd and faces towards each
other. Then the game began with an adl of defiance or challenge,
made by beating heavy flrokes with the fiat hand upon the left arm
above the elbow, where this part was quite black with the repeated
ftrokes it had received. At lafl one fleps forward to the centre of
the circle; another, who thinks himfelf an equal match, advances
to meet him; fometimes only a fmart blow or two enfues before they
fall back again into their places. At another time, after advancing
and gazing at each other for a while, one will fuddenly plump the
top of his head into the face of his opponent, and this caufing him
to retire in the dumps, fets all the crowd a-laughing. The worft of
the game is, when one gets an advantageous hold of his adverfary :
a fevere wreflling then takes place, and it is only at the expenfe of
flrength, and blood, and hair, that they will fubmittobe parted.
Manne Manne fent us in three hogs ready drefTed for dinner, with
baked bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, &c. He laid them on a large piece
of cloth, and invited us to fall to, but not before we had called upon
God to blefs it. ' We found it very good, though we had yet neither
dilli, fpoon, knife, fork, table, nor chair. Innumerable prefents
came in from the various chiefs who were courting our friendfliip ;
and we were all drefTed in Otaheite cloth.
During the day the houfe was crowded with natives, which made
it prudent to keep a guard over our property, though there appeared
no defign nor attempt at depredation. At the approach of evening we
commanded filence ; and, having fung an hymn, Mr. JefFerfon
offered up prayer to our Lord : during the fervice the natives behaved
very orderly and attentive. At night we requefled them to retire,
and return in the morning, which they did in the moft peaceable
manner, and we received not the leafl difturbance from them. We
then held our ufual daily family worfhip ; and, having fupped on
the plenty of provilions which remained, we retired to refl, admiring
the wondrous providence of our God. Lord, thou hafl been better
March.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 67
to us than all our fears : grant us firmer faith in thy care, that we may
be able to truft tlicc more in a future day !
How gracioufly has the Lord difplayed his arm for us fince leaving
our native ihorcs, in traverfinga tracklefs ocean, and opening a door
in thefe heathen lands, we truft, to diffufe his evcrlafting gofpcl here.
May the Lord make us burning and fliining lights !
The king held all our hands, and fliook them, as did the queen,
examining our clothes very minutely, and took particular notice of
Mr. Lewis's umbrella, which, on his expanding it to (hew its ufe,
they both made figns not to lift it over their heads, left it fliould,
according to their cuftoms, become thereby facred to their own ufe.
Their attention to us is Angularly engaging.
9th. This morning the natives came to our houfe before feven
o'clock, made a fire, boiled our water, and prepared the bread-fruit
and cocoa-nuts. The king and queen vifited us feveral times in the
courfe of the day.
This morning alfo Inna Madua, the widow of OreepTah (brother
to Pomarre), lately deceafed, paid us a vifit, accompanied by two
chief women. Oreeplah was much attached to the Englifli ; and his
widow, fuppofing us forry for his lofs, on entering the cabin burft
into tears, and continued this exprcflion of grief till we all fympa-
thized with her. However, this did not laft long; for they foon
became cheerful, breakfafted, and dined on board, as did Mannc
Manne, and towards evening they all went on fhore ; but as no fuit-
able prefents were yet got out of the hold, they were defired to renew
their vifit the next day, when fome things fliould be in readinefs
for them. Thefe, with the tayos of the crew and mifi!ionaries, filled
all parts of the fliip with hogs, fruit, and cloth.
Otoo paddled roimd the fhip in his canoe, as he had done the day
before, and calling out for fomething to eat, the captain fent him,
in one of our difties, half of a roaft pig, and fome bifcuit, with which
he fet off for the fliore, feemingly much plealed.
K 7,
68 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
Tlic bufincfs of the- lioiifc did not go on tc)-d;iy with miich alacrity,
owinp; to the natives flackcning in their officioufnefs, fo that we got
but few bamboos ; however, in the afternoon fome were difpatched,
taking my word, as an earee of the pahie (an officer of the fhip),
that they (hould be rewarded for their trouble ; accordingly in the
evening we had as many brought to the houfe as would keep us
emplo\ed all the following day. As on board, fo at the houfe,
numberlefs prefents were brought, confifting of live hogs, cocoa-nuts,
bread-fruit, and cloth, which are their ftaple articles j and befides
thefe, more ready-dreffed meat was brought than the brethren and
the natives employed could confume. But in the midfl: of this pro-
fufion, fome were apprehenfive of its being followed with inconve-
nience and embarraffmcnts, and therefore wholly difapproved of
making tayos fo foon,
Whilft the bufinefs was going on afliore, the crew were employed
in weighing the anchor, warping farther up the bay, and mooring
the fhip with the two bowers. Peter, the Swede, alfo brought his
canoe, and fuch things as the mifHonaries firft wanted were difpatched
on fhore. Thermometer 761°.
1 0th. The wind eaflerly, moderate and pleafant weather. The
people employed hoifting out of the hold and fending fundries afliore
on account of the miflion.
To-day the captain landed for the purpofe of prefenting fome fhewy
drelTes to the young king and his wife. They met him at the beach
as ufual. Peter informed him of what was intended, and, fhewing
him the box which contained the treafure, defired Otoo to walk towards
liis houfe, a temporary fhed they had ereded for the purpofe of being
near our people. This was complied with ; and when they came
near, the captain, flopping under a tree, ordered them to form a ring,
and placing the box in the midft, Otoo was requefled to alight, that
the brethren might drefs him; he replied, By and by, and gazed ful-
lenly for a confaderable time, till the patience of the captain was pretty
March.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 69
well cxhaufted ; repeating the requeft and receiving no anfwer, they
iipened the box, and on taking out the drefs for the queen, (lie inftantly
alighted from the man's fhoulder, and Otoo followed her example. The
fancy cap fitted her exceedingly well, and flie feemcd very proud of it,
but it was only by unripping that the other articles could be put upon
her or Otoo. The captain told him that the earecs of Prctane thought
he was not yet fo ftout a man. DrcfTcd complete in this gaudy attire,
the furrounding crowd gazed upon them with admiration. She, true
to the foibles of her fex, appeared delighted, but Otoo thought little
of them, faying an ax, a mufket, a knife, or pair of fciffars were
more valuable : which was faying more for himfelf than we ex-
ped:ed, or that he had even fenfe to do.
Jufl: as the ceremony was ended, Manne Manne appeared before
the houfe, and calling the captain to him, clothed him in a 'Taheitean
drefs, putting an elegant breaft-plate over all. They then walked
towards the Britifh houfe, where they found the work going on very
well j and it being paft noon, the old prieft accompanied the captain
on board to dinner.
nth. The crew employed in fending fundries on fliore on account
of the miffion. At the houfe they were very bufy fitting up the
apartments for the women, whom it was intended to land in the
afternoon. The brethren had informed the natives, that next day
being the day of the Eatooa, no work would be done, nor any thing
received ; therefore, on this account, they brought what provifions
might ferve till Monday, but were in reality fufficient to laft a week.
After dinner the pinnace was manned for the women and children,
and by the captain's dcfire I accompanied them on fhorc. Vafl: num-
bers of the natives crowded to the beach to gratify their curiofity, all
behaving with great rcfpedl and very peaceable. Otoo and his wife
kept for a while at a little diflance, feemingly in doubt whether he
fliould approach the women ; but thinking it proper to falute him,
he was a little encouraged : however, he ft ill kept filence, and all the
way as we walked to the houfe, gazed flupidly, like another Cymon.
^Q FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
Tlic hoiifc was fun-oundcd all the afternoon by the natives, who
were much delighted with the two children, and fent often for them
and the women to flicw themfclves at the door. In the duflc of the
evening they all retired j and this, the brethren remark, they have
uniformly done fince they firft landed. Orders being likewife given
at the fliip for none of their canoes to come near on the Sunday, they
fupplicd us in tlic f^ime plentiful manner as they had done the mif-
iionarics.
As Manne Manne had already diftinguiflaed himfelf as a very
ufcful man, befidcs bringing feveral hogs, fruit, &c. the captain,
to recompenfe him in part, made him a handfome prefent, leaving
it to himfelf to enumerate the articles which he mofl needed ; to do
this he was at no lofs, having great prefence of mind on fuch occafions j
therefore he run off a long lift of thins^s which he wanted for a fmall
fchooner which he was building at Eimeo j of thefe fuch as we had
to fpare were given to him.
As yet we have had no reafon to complain of any improper behaviour
in the Otaheiteans, men or women. Neither have we loft a fingle
article to our knowledge, though many have unavoidably been much
expofed.
The goodnefs and love of God to us fliould be graven on the tables
of our hearts. After prayer the brethren retired to reft.
Before the Otaheiteans departed they were informed no work would
be done the next day, and they afked if it would be more devoted to
prayer than the other days, and were told it would.
The Sunday paffed very quietly, not one canoe coming near the
fhip ; and on ftiore no interruption was attempted, the natives, with
the king and queen, attending, and conducting themfelves in peace
and good order. A difcuftion took place among the brethren con-
cerning the propriety of fpeaking to the natives upon the important
fubjedt of their mifticjn, when it was agreed that the prefident
(Mr. Jefferfon) fliould addrefs them through the medium of Andrew
■the Swede as interpreter. Accordingly, at three o'clock in the af-
March.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 71
ternoon, they met for this purpofe, feveral of the natives being prc-
fent both within and without the houfe ; and as foon as Andrew
interpreted the firft fentencc, finding the difcourfe directed to them,
they placed themfelves in attentive poftiires. When they undcrflood
a httle of what was faid, they put very pertinent queftions ; among
others, doubting whether we would beftow aught that could be
efteemed a benefit equally on all. They afked, whether the mef-
fage of the Britifli God was to the toutous as well as to the king and
chiefs ? They were anfwered in the affirmative ; and further, Mr.
Jefferfon, pointing to his brethren, told them that they were the
meffengers of the only true God ; and that though all men had of-
fended him, he was, notwithftanding, a merciful God ; conferring
on thofe who believed his word great bleffings in this life, and after
death took them to a ftate of eternal happtnefs. Otoo was prefent,
but, according to human judgment, his flubborn, unteachable na-
ture feems to be the laft that any impreffion can be made upon. We
retired to reft, thankful for the occurrences of the day, and for the
prornifing profpe6ls before us through the providence of our God.
13th, Wind eafterly, and pleafant weather. The crew employed
in hoifting up goods, and fending various articles on Ihore on account
of the miffion ; two of the brethren from each party dividing a large
cheft of books.
The natives had perfedlly underftood that the prohibition was but
for yefterday, for early in the morning feveral canoes were alongfide,
and in one of them, with our conftant friend Manne Manne, came
feveral chiefs and their wives ; but the principal perfon to be intro-
duced at this time was the father of Pomarre, Otew, formerly
Whappai, who is a very venerable looking man, aged about feventy,
his head covered with gray hairs, and his chin with a remarkable
white beard: his name had once been Otoo; but, on the birth
of his fon, in compliance with the general cuftom, he changed
it to Otew. As ufual, he prefented the captain with a piece of cloth
and a pig, receiving in return, and on account of his rank, two
7t FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
axes, four pair of fcidars, and four knives, two looking-glafTes and
two old fliirts, which was all he afked for; and it appears that
their reqiiefts always include the utmofl bounds of their expedation ;
fo that to add aught more is quite fuperfluous and unneceflar^.
When breakfaft was ready, moft of our vifitors went upon deck,
feemingly through a fenfe of good manners and a fear of offending,
which we may fuppofe them to have learnt from former vifitors,
who, for their own fakes, might have taught them t us much ; for
it certainly would be very uncomfortable to have them crowding at
meals continually : but Manne Manne had no fcruples, and, as if
confcious of a right, placed himfelf next his tayo at table, and
being exceedingly fond of the tea and our bread and butter, played
rather an epicurean part. In the forenoon Otoo and the queen fcnt
off to beg leave of the captain to fend him their prefents ; to which
ceremonial an anfwer was made in the affirmative; and in confe-
quence thereof we had them prefently alongfide : the king's con-
lifted of thirteen live hogs, and three ready dreffed ; the queen's was
onedrefTed, fix alive, and a bale of cloth; themfelves followed in a large
double canoe, accompanied by Otoo's younger brother, now prince of
Tiaraboo. They would not come on board, but exprefTed a wifli for
a great gun to be fired; and, to gratify them, two were cafl loofe;
Manne Manne took the match, and though almoft blind i h agi,
he boldly fired them off; with which ad: of his own courage he
was highly traiifported. Their flay was fhort ; for after they had
paddled twice or thrice round the fhip, they returned to the fliore.
About four in the afternoon Pomarre and his wife Iddeah, having
juft arrived from Tiaraboo, paid their firfl vifit at the fhip ; befides
his ufual attendants a number of others had put themfelves in his
train. When alongfide he refufed to come farther till the captain
fhewed himfelf; this bein done, he immediately afcended the fide,
and coming on to the quarter-deck, wrapped four pieces of cloth
round the captain as his own prefent ; then taking that off, repeated
the operation with the like quantity in the name of Iddeah. While
March.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS.
73
he was doing tliis, I thought joy evident in his countenance, and
was glad to find in him a pidure of good-nature very different from
the morofe figure which rcprefents him in fomc editions of Cook's
voyages j and could not help thinking that his prefence, which we
now enjoyed, would afford plcafure to thoufands in refined Europe,
who have heard fo much of the hofpitality and favour this prince
of favages has always fhewn to his vifitors.
The firft ceremonies over, he told the captain that he would fend
provifions and whatever we had occafion for while we ftaid at Ota-
heite. When feated in the cabin, he cxprefled his regard for the
Englifh, and called King George his friend. On this the interpreter
was defired to inform him, that King George loved him, and that
the earees of Pretane did the fame ; and that out of regard for him
and his people, they had fent this Hiip with fome of the beft men,
purpofely to do them good ; and then defired to know, whether he
was pleafed that part of our number fliould refide on his ifland. He
immediately anfwered in the affirmative, A piece of land for their
life was next mentioned to him ; to which, after a few words with
his privy counfellor Iddeah, he anfwered, that the whole diflrid;
of Matavai fhould be given to the Englifh, to do with it what
they pleafed; obferving, that Pyteah, the prefent chief of the dif-
tridl, was a good old man ; that it would be for the benefit of our
people to permit him to hold his refidence near to their dwelling-
houfe ; and that he, according to orders which fliould be given him,
would enforce obedience from the natives, and oblige them to bring
whatever the Englilh wanted of the produce of the diftridl.
Thefe moft important matters to us being fettled, as far as they
could be for the prefent, the chief thought it was time to inquire
after entertainments ; and firft fky-rockets, next the violin and dancing,
andlaftly the bagpipe, which he humoroufly defcribed by putting a
bundle of cloth under his arm, and twifting his body like a Highland
piper. When we told them that we had none of thefe, they feemed
rather dejedied j therefore, to revive them, a few tunes were played
L
-^ FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
upon the German flute by Mr. Bowell and one of the feamcn, though it
plainly appeared that more lively mufic would have pleafed them better.
Pomarre uitimating a wifh to fleep on board, it was granted ; he
then aiked leave for his wife and fervant, which was alfo complied
with. It may be proper to remark here, that Iddeah, though ftill
confidered as the wife of Pomarre, has not for a confiderable time
cohabited with him, but with one of her toutous (or fervants), by
whom fhe has had one child, and is again pregnant; her younger
fifter, Why'reede, next cohabited with the chief, but left him
through diflike for one of far inferior rank; and his prefent wife is
a very flout young woman, but of what condition wc could not
learn. However, it is evidently clear, that they hefitate little about
mixing with the lower orders of the people ; but if iffue fliould be
the confequence of thefe connexions, it is rarely the pride of rank
fuffers the poor infants to live an hour after they are born. At fup-
per the chief devoured a whole fowl, with the addition of about two
pounds of pork, and drank proportionally.
At the houfe all was peace and quietnefs with the natives, and
nothing particular is noticed in the miflionary journal, except a few
expreffions of dilTatisfadion concerning their brethren leqving them to
go to the Friendly Iflands.
To-day received as prefents twenty-two live hogs,and five ready dreffed.
14th. This morning Manne Manne and feveral others came on
board, all behaving refpedlfully to Pomarre. The captain, in order
to cultivate his friendfhip, made him a prefent of an excellent fingle-
cafed metal watch, with which he was very much pleafed ; obferving,
that none before ever made him a prefent of the kind. As we knew
him quite ignorant how to manage a watch, Peter (the Swede) was
direded to wind it upfor him every day. Thermometer 76°. Pomarre,
his young wife, Iddeah, and the old prieft, breakfafted and dined with
us. The tea juft fuited their taftej and at dinner the two chiefs
drank of the wine eagerly. The captain fhewing fome unwillingnefs
to indulge Manne Manne to a greater degree, he anfwered to the
March.] TO THE SOUTH- SEA ISLANDS. 75
following purport : — that as he was going on (hore to facrifice a man
to the Eatooa, he took it to raife his courage. Expreffing our abhor-
rence of fo cruel a defign, he became filent ; and his friend Peter de-
fired him never to mention any thing of the kind to us.
By a letter from Mr. Jefferfon (the prefident), it appears that the
apprehenfions of thofe on llaore, both for their pcrfons and property,
are much increafed ; alfo their fufpicions of the profclTcd friendfliip
of the natives, who, they hear, have formed the dcfign of rufhing
upon them and taking all away ; in confequence of which they urge
the necefiity of the whole body fettling at this place. But for fuch
fufpicions there does not appear the Ihadow of fear; nothing can be
more peaceful, kind, and fubmiffive, than the natives, afTifling theni
readily in all their preparations. Pomarre and Iddeah, in the after-
noon, vifited the houfe, and viewed the improvements made with
onder and delight. They partook of a difli of tea with us ; one
of his attendants poured the tea from the cup to the faucer, and then
held it to his mouth : this is the way at every meal j his dignity
will not permit him to feed himfelf. When he had finiflied, he
requeued the faucer might be kept for his future ufe, and that no
woman might be permitted to touch it. We were furprifcd to fee fo
flout a man, perhaps the largeft in the whole ifland, fed like a
cuckoo.
15th. Moderate breezes and pleafant weather; employed on board
hoifting up goods, and landing them on account of the milTion.
Received ten butts of water by fwimming them off. Thermometer 76".
On fhore the brethren were bufied making a faw-pit, and fitting
up their apartments. Among the remarks of this day they fay,
" Several Otaheiteans vifited us as ufual, continuing to bring hogs,
" fruit, &c. Pomarre and his attendants were with us at family
" worfhip, ; after which the prefident informed him of the nature
•' of our miffion, to teach them our God and Saviour; to learn
•• them to read the fpeaking book of wifdom, and to inftrud: them in
" all ufeful arts j which he applauded, as he had already done at the
L 2
y6 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
" Ihip, and faid it was my ty, my ty, very good ; and added, that
" he would fend his fons for inArudion."
He came not near the Ihip to-day, but returned his watch very
much damaged, u hich we fuppofe to be the reafon why he abfented
himfelf : no doubt a hatchet would now have been efteemed a prefent
of greater worth, though the ghtter of a watch pleafed him more at
firfl.
By another letter from the prefident it appears that the brethren
arc ftill more afraid of the natives than before ; and this in confe-
quence of being told by the Swedes that an attack upon them is in-
tended fhortly to be made : they therefore requeft an addition of arms
and ammunition, and farther urge the apparent neceflity of the
whole body remaining at Otaheite. The captain wrote a few lines
in anfwer, which brought Mr. Jefferfon on board ; when, in a con-
ference with the brethren intended for the Friendly Ifles and Mar-
quefas, he laid before them the grounds of their fears, and requelled
they would join them. To this they faid that they could not give
a dired reply, but defired to have till the following day to confider
the matter. This feems a mere bugbear and artifice of the Swedes.
1 6th. The brethren on board having debated the fubjed: of
yefterday, and concluding the above-mentioned fears groundlefs, and
by no means caufe fufficient for them to confine the whole effort of
the fociety to one ifland, and thereby difappoint the hopes of many
of its valuable members at home ; they therefore returned their ulti-
mate anfwer in the negative.
This being the day appointed by Pomarre for ceding in form the
diftridl of Matavai to the Englifli, the captain landed upon Point
Venus ; was there received by the chief, and conduded near to the
miffionary houfe. Mofl: of the brethren from the fliip, and all on
fhore, were prefent at this ceremony. Peter the Swede took, as
ufual, the office of interpreter. " The fcene," fays Mr. Bo well,
was laid before the door of the miffionary houfe, at fome diftance
from which a rope was ftretched to keep off the crowd. Pomarre,
March.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 77
Iddcah, Otoo, his wife and brothers, went alfo without the
rope. Marine Mannc, who alone adled the part of conveyancer,
remained within with the captain and brethren. He then dcfircd
Peter to tell the captain all that he fhould fay, and began by pre-
facing his oration with towa, towa, bear! in order to attradt
general attention ; then went on enumerating all the Eatooas of
Otaheite, Eimeo, and the Society Iflcs ; next the diflridts and their
chiefs in regular order; and laltly the fhips and their commanders,
from Wallis, Bougainville, and Cook, down to the Duff and her
captain : concluding with the formal furrender of the diflridl of
Matavai : obferving, that we might take what houfes, trees, fruit,
hogs, &c. we thought proper. This ftrange fpeech was delivered
very deliberately by the old priefl, who, while he fpoke, fat in an
odd poflure, half bent upon his heels, holding with one hand the
rope, and frequently fcratching his head and rubbing his eyes with
the other. Thefe peculiarities were caught by his mimicking
countrymen, who afterwards turned them into humorous panto-
mime,"
A converfation now took place between the captain and Manne
Manne, concerning the going to war with his enemies. Manne
Manne importuned the captain to affift him againfl: Ulietea, of which
he had been king, but was driven from it feveral years ago. Being
told that we had no orders to fight, except in our own defence, and
that other fhips might come with different inflrudiions, and who
might have no objed:ion to join him in fuch enterprifes, he replied,
that he might be dead before that might happen. " Well, then,"
fays the captain, " your fon may ad: in your place, and be reinftated
" in your kingdom." To this he anfwered fmartly, " I would
" rather fee it done with my own eyes." The brethren obferving his
relud:ance to a pofitive denial upon this point, Mr. Cover faid,
that they would affifi: to finifh the veffel which he was building ; and
when they had learnt the language, would go to Ulietea and talk to
the people on the fubjed. This for the prefent fatisfied him, and
y8 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
the bufmefs ended; Pomarre, Otoo, and the other chiefs, fhaking
hands with the captain and brethren. Thus a door feems opening
for the gofpcl at UHetea, whither fomc of the brethren purpofe to go
as foon as they liave the language.
17th. Wind eafterly, with moderate and pleafant weather. Set
lip our rigging, and rafted alongfide fifteen butts of water, which
completed our flock ; and as we propofed to fail in a day or two,
feveral articles were fcnt on flaore to enable the brethren to go on with
their work, with a quantity of nails, &c. for trade during our ab-
fence ; alfo tea, cheefe, and what elfe we could fpare of that nature.
None of the chiefs came near us to-day, and but few canoes. The
young king and Pomarre paid a vifit at the houfe, when Mr. Jefferfon
took occafion to fpeak to him concerning the education of his chil-
dren ; reprefenting it as a matter of the greateft importance both to
them and the people of Otaheite ; and that he would be highly
blameable to negledl the opportunity which their coming afforded.
The chief's mind feemed impreffed with the truth of what was faid,
and he immediately fpoke to Otoo, who returned a very unfavourable
anfvver : " He did not want to learn Englifli." " I have a very bad
" opinion of Otoo," fays Mr. Jefferfon. And certainly appearances
are much againft him ; however, we may reafonably hope, that the
example of our people, and the exhibition of arts which muft appear
wonderful in their eyes, may in time excite in his mind a thirfl: after
knowledge. They expreffed high delight on the garden engine
playing, and calling water on the thatch of the houfe. Thernio-
meter 76^°.
18th. Wind from N.E. toE.S.E. moderate and pleafant wea-
ther ; employed clearing the fhip for fea. In the afternoon Pomarre
and Iddeah came on board, accompanied by Manne Manne, and
Peter to interpret. A prefent of cloth was made the captain, and
by a large chell which they had brought with them in the canoe, we
could fee what they expedied ; but feigning not to underfland, as
they handed it up the fide, the captain inquired of the chief what
March.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 79
he meant to do with it. He fcemed greatly perplexed how to anfwer
this queflion, till at lafl he faid, that he only wanted the lock re-
paired. He was then direded to take it on (hore to the blackfmith;
but this embarrafled him more than before j and feeing no other way
to free himfelf, he faid with a fmilc, that it was intended to hold
the prefent which the captain might be picafcd to make to him and
Iddcah ; and requeftcd that it fliould be put into the cabin, to pre-
vent his people from feeing what he received. When feated below,
he was afked what he would like to havej but feeming at a lofs what
to name, the old pricfl:, whofe wits are always ready, helped him
out : and firft axes ahowroo, ahowroo, that is, twice ten, or ten for
himfelf and ten for Iddeah ; then for each five fliirts, eight looking-
glafles, fix pair of fciffars, fix knives, fifty nails, and five combs ;
befides thefe, were added to his part, one caft-iron pot, one razor,
and a blanket. The whole was put into the cheft, and fccured by
the lock, which was very good. He then acknowledged himfelf
content ; but going afterwards betwixt decks, where the brethren
had feveral things lying loofe, he craved for fomething of all that
he faw ; but as they knew how well he had fared in the cabin,
they gratified him with very little. I have been thus particular, be-
caufe the incidents of this day do, in a meafure, charadterize the chief.
The brethren intended for the Friendly Ifles, confidering that none
of tlic ordained minifters were to accompany them, chofe from their
number Mr. Seth Kelfo to be their paftor, and urged to thofe on
fhorc the propriety of ordaining him and John Harris previous to
their departure. This they very readily confented to, and the next
day, being Sunday, was appointed for that purpofe. Thermometer 76°.
19th. The fame orders being iffued as for lafi: fabbath, but two
or three canoes were off in the bay, and feeing that we took no
notice of them, they foon returned to the fliore. To-day, at the
mifiionary houfe, were ordained Seth Kelfo and John Harris, minif-
ters to the places of their refpedive dcflination.
So
FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
The tranfadions of this day being fingular, a more full report
cannot but give flitisfadion, and tend to encourage greatly our hopes
as to the ultimate objcdl of our miflion.
It having been made known that we intended to addrefs the na-
tives this morning, numbers of them aflembled early round our
dwcllin<r : amonsr them was Pomarre and his fifter : he had been
inquiring a day or two before concerning our fpeaking to them, and
fiid, " he had been dreaming about the book which fhould be fent
" him from the Eatooa."
At ten o'clock we called the natives together under the cover of
feme fhady trees near our houfe ; and a long form being placed, Po-
marre was requefted to feat himfelf on it with the brethren, the reft
of the natives ftanding or fitting in a circle round us. Mr. Cover
then addrefled them from the words of St. John, " God fo loved the
•' world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that they who believe
" on him fhould not perifli, but have everlafting life;" the Swede
interpreting fentence by fentence as he fpoke. The Otaheiteans were
filent and folemnly attentive. After fervice Pomarre took brother
Cover by the hand, and pronounced the word of approbation, " My
*' ty, my ty." Being afked, " If he had underftood what was
" faid?" he replied, " There were no fuch things before in Ota-
*' heite ; and they were not to be learned at once, but that he
" would wait the coming of (the Eatooa) God." Defiring to know
if he might be permitted to attend again, he was told, yes. Being
conduded into the houfe, he and his wife dined with us, and
departed.
About three o'clock the ordination folemnity of the brethren
Kelfo and Harris took place ; they were fet apart for their work by
the impofition of hands of our ordained brethren. Brother Cover
preached the ordination fermon, and delivered the charge; brother
Jefferfon having made the inquiry of the candidates refpeding their
call and objeds, and brothers Lewis and Eyre prayed at the com-
March.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 8i
mcnccment and end of the fervicc. The communion clofed the
folemnity, which was to iis all a moft refrclhing and comfortable
ordinance ; and for the firft time the bread-fruit of Otaheite was
ufed as the fymbol of the broken body of our Lord, and received in
commemoration of his dying love.
Manne Manne was prefent during the whole fervice, and very
attentive, particularly during the adminiftration of the Lord's fupper ;
he placed himfelf in the circle with the brethren, and when they
pafTed him he fhifted his fituation farther on, in hopes of partaking
v.ith them.
20th. Pomarre, Iddeah, and all our Saturday's guefts, vifited us
again to-day, bringing more cloth and fome fowls for fea ftock. They
flaid dinner; the chief, fed by his head man, ate heartily, and
drank a large fliare of a bottle of wine, evincing rather a covetous
defire for it, as he would hardly allow Manne Manne to have a glafs
with him. On the appearance of rain they took their leave, wiftiing
us a good voyage, and expreffing a hope of our fpeedy return.
As Peter the Swede had offered to go with us to the Friendly
Iflands, the captain confented, thinking that he might be ferviceable
on fome occafions as interpreter. He purpofed taking with him a
young woman named Tanno Manno, with whom he had for fome
time lived as his wife, a man the mutineers had named Tom, and
a boy called Harraway. The two laft Mr, Crook, who had already
made great proficiency in the Otaheitean language, thought might
be great helps to him. On this account the captain permitted
them to go with us alfo. The natives underflood we were now
about to leave them for fome months, but the captain's intention was
to lie a few days at Eimeo, and, previous to fetting off for the Mar-
quefas, to touch again in Matavai bay, when we might probably
learn how the natives were likely to behave during our abfencc.
Matters being thus fettled, we took with us Mr. William Puckey,
by trade a carpenter, to examine Manne Manne 's veflel, and fee
whether flie was worthy their afliftancc to finifh her. After dark
M
!<: FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
Ill the evening a canoe came alongfide from Eimeo ; in her was a
8ucde named Jolin, whom we had not feen before ; him his coun-
trymen reported to be in a llate of infanity, and by his difcourfe
we thought him a little fo. On his' part, he complained much of the
treatment which he had received from his fliipmates iince they
landed ; and cxprefled a defire to return to Europe. The captain, in
anfwer, told him, that at prefent he could not keep him on board ;
that he was on the point of failing, and would in a few months
return ; in the mean while he might ftay at the miffionary houfe,
and if he behaved well he Ihould have a paflage with us : he is a
native of Stockholm, about forty years old, and feems much reduced
by ficknefs.
On Mr. Puckey's coming on board, fome converfation pafTed oa
the propriety of the brethren's arming themfelves on fliore, and
keeping watch night and day ; which thofe on board difapproved.
He replied to them very fatisfadorily, that their intention in taking
arms was not to injure the natives, muchlefs to plant the gofpel by
human power ; but merely as a means ordained of God for the pro-
tedlion of their perfons and property during the ab fence of the Ihip.
March.] TO THE SOUTH-SICA ISLANDS. 83
CHAPTER VII.
Short Voyage to Eimeo, and Return.
-/i-BOUT an hour before daylight we weighed, with a light air from
the S. E. which taking us but flowly out of the bay, the natives,
perceiving the fails fet, hurried off in their canoes, eager to get a few
articles more before we departed. At feven A. M. a frefh gale fpring-
ing up from the N. E. attended with thunder and lightning, we left
them, and by ten o'clock were off the north-eail: part of Eimeo, when
it again fell little wind. We kept running along the edge of the coral
reefs towards Taloo harbour, and, at the diftance of half a cable's
length off, had irregular foundings, viz. fix, eight, twelve, and four-
teen fathoms. The reef appeared to block up the harbour till we
WTre nearly abreaft of it, when a good entrance Ihews itfelf. With
a light breeze we run clofe up to the fouth-eafl: corner of the harbour,
and let go our anchor in ten flithoms water, and moored with the
ftream cable to a remarkably large tree which ftands clofe to the
water's edge j the Steeple cliff at the head of the harbour bearing
S. by E.
Taloo harbour is on the north fide of the ifland ; the bottom {o
clear, that you diftindlly fee the coral, with its beautiful branches.
The mouth of the harbour is about a quarter of a mile broad ; the
water of an amazing depth : this led into a moft delightful bay, about
two miles wide and three deep. This bay is beautifully furrounded with
trees j not the leaft agitation of the water is perceivable on the beach, let
the wind blow from what quarter it may, it is fo perfectly land-locked.
We lay under a mountain ten times as high as our tppgallant-maft,
and perpendicular. There is a fine frefh- water river running up fome
M 3
84 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
miles, which a boat can afcend a mile or two, and fliips water with
the greateft eafe. It is the fecureft harbour I ever faw. It has a
border of low land, like Otaheite, covered with bread-fruit, cocoa-
nut, and other trees; and many of a different kind in the mountains,
fome very like lignum vitce ; one fmall ifland is wholly covered .with
this wood. Being in queft of a tree of hard wood, we found one,
but the axe would not ftand againft it, and we were obliged to ufe the
hand-faw.
Here I firft faw a tupapow : the flcfli was quite gone ; the fkin,
like parchment flretched over the bones, remained : the natives feemed
averfe to our examining it. Two pofts about fix feet long are let into
the ground at each end ; on thefe a broad plank is laid, and the corpfe
is there extended, wrapped in cloth, to dry, and a fmall fhed, like a
boat inverted, placed over it to keep out the rain.
After dinner, the captain, Mr. Falconer, Wm. Puckey, and Peter,
fet off in the pinnace to the place were Manne Manne's veffel was
building, and on their return gave but an unfavourable account of
her. In length fhe was forty-two feet, but difproportioned in her
breadth, by being fuller aft than forward, and the timbers were too
fmall for her fize. In this excurfion the captain fhot a wild duck and
two fmall birds, and Mr. Falconer caught with the feine about a
dozen fifh. All the afternoon the fliip was furrounded by the natives,
among whom were feveral women, who expreffed, by their loofe'gef-
tures, a great defire to be taken on board, but had the mortification to
meet with no encouragement. Several articles were offered to barter,
but no hogs, owing to the rahoo (or prohibition) being in force at
this time. This rahoo is laid on by the chiefs to repair the defolations
their inordinate feaflings make, and is always religioufly obferved by
the people. It feems that the whole ifland of Eimeo was at this
time under this injundlion, but at Otaheite it is only impofed on a
few diftridls at one time, during which none of the refidents dare fell
a pig, or kill one for their own ufe. However, they may take hogs
from thofe diftrids that are free, and ufe them as they pleafe. A
March.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 85
rahoo is alfo frequently laid upon the firti ; at which time poles with
a flag at top are ftuck upon the reefs, where they are not fuffered to be
taken. It is not improbable that this cuftom might have its origin
coeval with the RyR peopling of the iflands, or at Icafl when they
pofTelTed few animals, and have been introduced from motives
of economy. However this may have been, it is now become
fometimes an adl of injuftice and tyranny in the chiefs, whofe
impolitic proceedings are extremely deftrudlive to the general weltarc.
But of this there will be occafion to fpeak more particularly, when
their feveral cuftoms are noticed. At prefent we felt no inconvenience
from this law, our decks being already crowded with the hogs we
had brought from Matavai : however, had we ftood in need, there
were none to be got, for in the abfence of Iddeah and Manne Manne
no chief was here of fufficient authority to repeal it.
22d. Light airs of wind and pleafant weather, with a few flying
fhowers of rain. The crew employed painting the fhip, making
a new mizen, and putting the rigging in order.
An affair happened this morning, of which the brethren made fome
account : eight of them, by permifllon of the captain, took the jolly-
boat to a frefh-water creek at the head of the harbour, with the intent
to'wafh their linen, but returned in a fliort time, under a perfuafion
that the natives meant to rob them of their bundles, and to do them
further mifchief. " We put ofl^," fays Mr. Bowell, " from the
" fliip, but took no arms with us j a double canoe, full of men,
" alfo two fingle ones, followed us; and when the boat entered
" the creek, multitudes of people were feen running along the fliore,
" fome with white fticks in their hands: others, with clappers of
" pearl oyfter-fhells, were feemingly convening more of their coun-
" trymen together; and when w'e landed they were crowding from
" all quarters, but flill behaved peaceably ; and thofe who held fpears
" fliewed us in what manner they ufed them. Their numbers in-
" creafing, we thought it moft prudent to keep our bundles faft.
86 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
•• and return to the fliip ; as the quantity of linen we had brought
" was perhaps a temptation too great for them to refift. This refo-
" lution we immediately put in practice ; and we were allowed to re-
" turn without moleftation."
Soon after they got on board, a meeting of all the brethren was held
in the cabin, to debate on the propriety of taking fire-arms on fliore
with them at Tongataboo. Brother Kelfo opened the meeting in the
ufual manner; after which the captain, as prefident, informed them
of the reafons of being convened ; and, after a long converfation upon
the fubjedt, there appeared, on a divifion — for taking mufkets to
defend their perfons and property, brothers Harper, Kelfo, Nobs,
Shelly, Veefon, and Wilkinfon — againfl it, Bowell, Buchanan, and
Cooper.
Before the meeting broke up there were fome remonftrances ad-
drelTed to Meflrs. Harris and Crook, concerning their going to the
Marquefas in {o fmall a number; to which they anfwered. That
having long fince made that place their choice, they were ftill in the
fame mind, nor did they entertain a doubt of meeting with a favour-
able reception : and on this account they did not think it neceflary
for the Ihip to revifit them, but would rather, if the propofal met
with the captain's approbation, that the fhip fliould firft go to the
Friendly Ulands, and then proceeding to the Marquefas, a vaft expenfe
of time would be faved, and the captain bq enabled to ftay a month
or more to fee them fafely fettled. — This propofal was approved and
adopted as our future plan.
About thirty canoes, filled with men and women, kept paddling
around us all the day ; a greater number, who had no canoes, but
only a log of wood, and fome nothing, diverted themfelves in the water
feveral hours together, and if a fmall trinket was thrown in, they
would dive fome fathoms after it, and were in general fure to bring
it up.
The night was very dark, and about eleven o'clock the watch faw
March.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 87
a naked native {landing in the main chains ; and attempting to feize
him, he leaped into the water, and made his efcape, taking with hinx
four yards of our eledtric chain.
23d. Sent the boat to the creek for a turn of water, but \vhcn it
came we could not drink it, by reafon of a bitternefs, imbibed pro-
bably from the trees and flirubs on its banks ; however, on the
weft fide, and not far from the head of the harbour, an excellent
fpring of water was found. The natives furrounded us as ycftcrday,
but with little to barter.
24th. Fine pleafant weather. Many natives from different parts
of the ifland were to-day viewing the fliip with apparent admi-
ration } and perhaps it is no erroneous opinion to fuppofc that
there never was a Ihip in thofe parts fo ornamented with figures to
attradl their attention. None appeared with arms, but all roguiflily
inclined, on which account we would not fuffer one of them to come
upon our decks; but, notwithftanding our precautions, they found
means to fteal the rudder out of the jolly-boat lying alongfide. While
we were at dinner in the cabin a canoe came clofe under the ftern,
and a tall fellow, getting up upon the back of the rudder, reached
his hand up, and fnatched away a book which lay juft within the
cabin windows j he then immediately fell back, and made a plunge in
the water. This we heard, and ftarting up, infifted upon their
putting the canoe alongfide, but this they refufed to do, and began
to fet off towards the flaore, as did all the reft that were near us.
Thinking this adtion too daring to be overlooked, and clemency, fo
often extended, only an excitement to greater depredations, a few
fmall fliot were fired, which made them take to the water, and fkulk
behind the canoe. Two of the feamen in our jolly-boat tried in vain
to catch the offender, for he, with the dexterity of a wild duck in
the water, eluded all their attempts to lay hold of him ; and it was
only with the help of the pinnace, and frightening him with a muf-
ket, that we caught him at laft. When alongfide, he trembled
through fear of being put to death, and ftruggled l.arJ to get into
8$ FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
the water again, but making a rope faft round his body, he was
hoiftcd on board, and lalhed up to the rigging, in fight of his coun-
trymen, who flood ranged along the beach in expedation of feeing
him puni/licd. As Peter was on fhore at this time, the dehnquent
was kept bound till he returned on board j in the mean while the
natives, obfcrving nothing was done to him, came around us as
before. When Peter arrived, he was deiired to tell the man in what.
light we confidered his offence, and that if he or any other perfon
was found doing the like again, they would certainly be fevcrely pu-
nifhed ; and that the reafon why we let him go at this time was merely
becaufe we had not warned him of the conlequence before. To this
he faid, he would not do fo again, and took his leave with joy in his
countenance.
The bad condu6t of the captain's fteward had been often noted ;
though the milTionaries were reludlant to complain. This had at
laft exhauftcd the patience of the captain, who turned him out of the
cabin before the mart. This evening, going on fhore with others to
bathe, he fecreted himfelf, having contrived to get fome of his thino-s
on fliore unknown to any but the Swede. This caufed us much
forrow of mind, as he had made, on coming on board, a profeffion
of godlincfs, though his condudl had very little adorned it. We
tcarcd that this man, thus leaving the fliip and indulging in all the
abominable practices of the heathen, would prove a great reproach
and plague to us ; and {o we afterwards found it to be.
Having now finifhed the painting of the fhip, and put her other-
wife in good order, the ftream cable was ordered to be caft off from
the tree on (hore, and all things to be in readinefs for proceeding to
fca with the land breeze in the morning. Orders were given alfo
that a good look-out fliould be kept during this night, as we had
feme reafon to apprehend that we fhould be vifited by thieves in the
dark; therefore two muikets were placed in readinefs. As we ex-
peded, fo it proved j for about one o'clock in the morning, when it
was very dark, a man was heard fwimming under the fliip's bows.
March.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 89
clofe to the cable, and perhaps with an intent to cut it ; a mufkct
was fired, which fet him off with great precipitancy towards the
fhore.
25th. At fix A. M. with a hght air at S. S. E. we weighed and
flood out of Taloo harbour, which as we cleared we found the wind
more to the eaftward. Several of the natives in their canoes followed
us quite out to fea, expreffing a greater defire to trade with us than
they had done all the time we lay among them.
Concerning the people of this ifland we learnt but little, not caring
to trufl ourfelves in fmall parties on fhore, for fear they fhould reta-
liate on us the vengeance which Captain Cook inflidled upon them
for flealing his goats. However, we obfervcd in thofe who came
alongfide, that they had not attained to that frank affable behaviour
towards flrangers, that the Otaheiteans have in general : neither
were they fo fkilful in bartering ; and in every point of civilization
feemed far behind that people : which difference I cannot otherwife
account for, than by fuppofing them lef^ vifited by flrangers from
Ulietea and the other iflands than Otaheite is. For it is certain that
the vafl number of arreoies which refort to the latter place do not
only, by virtue of their privileges, oblige to the exercife of hofpitality,
the parent of many focial qualities, but by their addrefs, knowledge
of the iflands, and various talents to pleafe, they contribute to inform
the minds and foften the manners of thofe they vifit. In their perfons
they differ nothing from the Otaheiteans, except it be in a jewifli
caft of countenance, which is here more general ; and a greater pro-
portion of their women are of a low flature, but equal in the fym-
metry of features.
We faw but few canoes, and thofe were very indifferent ones both
in fize and goodnefs, nor were there any figns of their being pofTefTed
of many.
As for the ifland itfelf, it feems to have fuffered great convulfions
cither from earthquakes or other violent caufes. Mofl of the hills
^0 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
are high, pointed at their tops, with broken rugged fides, particu-
larly about Taloo harbour, from the entrance of which they have a
very ftrikins; appearance. Tlic low grounds are covered with cocoa-
nut, bread-fruit, and other trees, all growing luxuriantly, and without
care or culture. They have alio all the roots, &c. in common with
the other iflands. And here the cows are that Captain Cook left with
them, but they are little attended to, as it is faid that they are wild, and
that none of the natives dare approach them : there is no bull. Ws
did intend to have landed in purfuit of the cows, and to have taken
them to Matavai ; but as all the chiefs were abfent, it was thought
prudent to relinquifh the plan for fear of mifchief from the natives.
Towards evening we faw Tethuroa, low land, about twenty- four
miles from Otaheite. It confifts of fix or feven iflets very near each
other, not many feet above the level of the fea, covered with cocoa-
nuts, but no bread-fruit, which they are not allowed to cultivate;
It belongs to the king, but Manne Manne claims it. The natives,
about three thoufand, are employed in filhing for the chiefs at Ota-
heite, and bring back bread-fruit and other things in exchange,
26th. About four in the afternoon we tacked the fhip clofe in with
One Tree hill, hoiiled our colours, and fired a gun ; upon hearing
of which, MefTrs. Cover, Lewis, Henry, Gillham, and others came
off in a double canoe, and reported that all was well, that they had
now na reafon to entertain apprehenfion of future mifchief from the
natives, who, they fay, ufually leave their houfe about fix o'clock in the
evening, and revifit them regularly at an early hour in. the morning.
The chiefs alfo were behaving extremely well.. Since we left them
they had made Manne Manne a chefl, which pleafed him. Pomarre
had juft fet off to another diilridl, after promifing to be with them
again in a day or two. They were all in good health ; and refpeding
provifions, the natives continued to fupply them plentifully with all
that the ifland afforded. This pleafing intelligence could not fail to
fatisfy us, and alfo to reconcile them to the departure of their brethren^
March.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 91
Therefore we took leave of our friends, hoifted in the pinnace, and
made fail for the Friendly Iflands, after fending on lliore materials
for a flat-bottomed boat, to be built during our abfencc.
Nothing could have exceeded the kindnefs and attention of the
natives J every day they attended our worfliip, and heard fuch addreffes
as we were able to make to them through an interpreter. This firft
experiment of the flaip's ab fence had removetl all the brethren's fears ;
and tlicy faw us quit the harbour only with the tendcrnefs of parting,
friends, who hoped again jfhortly to meet and rejoice together; wiflaing
their miffionary brethren good fpeed in the feveral places of their defti-
nation ; yet not without many tears.
The wind being frefli to eaft, we filled our topfails, and left them
fer aftern. The brethren, who had come off haftily in the canoe, impro-
vidently came away without the paddles ; feveral canoes being near,
they borrowed two, and fome loofe boards were in the canoe with
them ; with thefe they tried to pull her ahead in vain, the wind
blowing from that point to which they wanted to go. The crois piece
of the canoe, it being a double one, gave way, the lafhing being
nearly cut through ; fo they pafTed a rope round the bottom, and fecured
it. They were, however, obliged to bear away beyond One Tree
hill, and travel home on foot, leaving the canoe and her cargo to the
care of the natives, whp were very faithful, and brought her back the
next day.
g; FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797..
CHAPTER VIII.
Divijion of the MiJJionarics, — Voyage to Tongatahoo. — Occurrences
there during the frji Vifit.
VV E mufl now interrupt the account of the tranfad:ions at Ota-
heite, to follow our other brethren through the deep; onthefhip's
return they fliall be recorded.
The day following our departure from Matavai we pafled to the
fouthward of the Society Iflands, in fight of Huaheine, Ulietea, Otaha,
and Bolabola ; then, with a fine fair wind and pleafant weather,
fhaped our courfe for Palmerfton's ifland, which we intended to vifit,
as it lay dired:ly in our way. Accordingly, on the firft of April,
a little before day, we faw it bearing weft, diftant about tw^o leagues ;
then running nearer, hoifted out the pinnace and jolly-boat, and
attempted landing on the fouth-eafternmoft iflet j but finding it
impracfticable there, on account of the furf breaking high on every
part of the furrounding reef, we bore down to the next iflet, which
is the fouth-wefternmoft, and found it almoft as bad to land upon
as that which w^e had left. A fquall of wind and heavy rain coming
on, we returned to the fhip, for fear any accident fhould happen to
the boats. About eight o'clock the weather cleared up, and we made
a fecond attempt, finding that by reafon of the tide of ebb the furf
had fallen confiderably ; yet there appeared no place where we could
land the boats with fafety. Abundance of cocoa-nut trees covered
the iflet, and to get at them was our objed: ; therefore Otaheitean
Tom, the third mate, and one of the feamen, taking with them the
end of a line, leaped into the water and ventured into the furf, where,
with great difficulty, they effedied a footing on the coral rocks which
April.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 93
compofc the reef, after getting their legs, arms, and different parts of
their bodies, much cut with the Iharp points of the coral. They had
flill to walk near a quarter of a mile before they got to the dry beach,
fo that the fmall quantity of cocoa-nuts which they could have brought
to the boat would not have been a recompence for the trouble of pro-
curing them ; but about half-ebb we obferved a fmall opening or
gutter in the reef, into which we rowed, and found it deep enough
for the boats to pafs clear over to the beach, where we could ftep
out dry, and lie within fifty yards of the trees. We now applied
ourfelves to the objedl in view, and foon fent both the boats off loaded
with cocoa-nuts, keeping the two Otaheiteans on fliore to climb the
trees, a tafk which they performed with much more cale than we
could. The water had now fallen ib much, that on the return of the
boats they were obliged to lie at the outer edge of the reef, in a fmall
creek about ten yards wide and twenty long, and covered from the
force of the fea by the rocks projefting on each fide. They were
again loaded with cocoa-nuts, and grafs for the ufe of the goats ;
and it now being late in the evening we returned on board, hoifled
the boats in, and made fail, having got in the courfe of the day five
hundred and thirty cocoa-nuts.
Palmerfton's ifland was difcovered by Captain Cook on his fecond
voyage : it confifts of a group of fmall iflets, eight or nine in num-
ber, connected together by a reef oi coral rocks, and lying in a
diredlion nearly circular. The illet we landed upon is not a mile in
circuit, and at high water is not more than'-four or five feet above the
level of the fea. The foil" is coral fand, with an upper ftratum of
blackifh mould produced from rotten vegetables. All the inner area
of the iflet is covered with cocoa-nut trees, which decaying and falling
fucceffively form a thick underwood : without thefe, near to the
beach, are the wharra tree, and others of various forts. We faw
vaft numbers of men of war birds, tropic birds, and boobies. Among
the trees there was plenty of red crabs, dragging after them a fliell
in form of a periwinkle, but larger, being in diameter about two or
54 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797,
ihrcc inches ; when ihcy run along the ground they only put their
claws out, but when \vc touched them, they drew themfelves wholly
into their ihell.
We alfo faw the beautiful fubmarine grotto defcribed in Cook's
third voyage. " At one part of the reef which bounds the lake
" within, almoft even with the furface, there is a large bed of coral,
'* which affords a moft enchanting profpedl. Its bafe, which is
•' fixed to the fliore, extends fo far that it cannot be feen, fo that it
" appears to be fufpended in the water. The fea was then unruffled,
•' and the refulgence of the fun expofed the various forts of coral in
" the mofl: beautiful order ; feme parts luxuriantly branching into
•' the water, otfhers appearing in a vaft variety of figures, and the
*' whole heightened by fpangles of the richeft colours, glowing from
" a number of large clams interfperfed in every part. Even this
" delightful fcene was greatly improved by the multitude of fiilies
" that gently glided along, feemingly with the moft perfed: fecurity;
" their colours were the moft beautiful that can be imagined, blue,
" yellow, black, red, &c. far excelling any thing that can be pro-
-" duced by art." This is the defcription which they give of this
grotto, and is nothing exaggerated, for it is certainly a great and
beautiful production of nature. We beheld it with pleafure, and
with them regretted, that a work fo aftoniftiingly elegant ftiould be
concealed in a place fo feldom explored by the human eye.
There are no traces of this ifland having ever been inhabited ; a
piece of a canoe lay upa\ the beach, probably the fame as was feen
by Cook's people, and which they conjedlure might have drifted
from another ifland; but as there are rats upon the ifland, which both
they and we faw, hence a query is fuggefted, how or by what means
they could come to this place ? They fuppofe it might be in the
canoe, which i& not at all likely, becaufe they afford hardly a place
of concealment for them ; and if there were men in the canoe, it is
very probable that they fuffered much from hunger, therefore it
would be abfurd to think they would not fearch their canoe for every
April.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 95
hidden morfcl ; or, finding a mt, to fuppofe they would fpaic it. It
is doiibtlefs more juft to conclude they were drifted here on fome
hollow tree or root, which being before their place of flicker, and torn
up by fome tempeft, might be caft upon this fhore.
On Wednefday the fifth of April we faw Savage ifland, but did
not get near it before dark. In pafEng the north end we perceived
three lights, and on the wefl: fide fevcn more; by their motion we
fuppofcd them to be on the water, and feemingly in canoes a-filhing.
The natives of this ifland fliewed a ferocious and hoftile difpofition to
Captain Cook and his people in i •7-74, when hedifcovered it; on which
account he called it Savage ifland. His account of them fliews the dan-
ger of landing among any of thofe iflanderS' who- have not previoufly
had intercourfe with Europeans ; alfo the abfolute necefllty, when
obliged to land, of being able to repel them by force when attacked.
We ought to lay it down as a truth, that neither in places already
known, where the inhabitants have ailed conflantly in a hoftile
manner, nor yet in new iflands which voyagers may difcover, are the
natives to be trufl:ed with the power of their lives ; for in general
they are fo tenacious of their territory and of their canoes, fo co-
vetous of all we poflfefs, and under a perfuafion that all fl:rangcrs
are enemies, that they will, either by force or cunning, aim. at
the lives of thofe who are fo unhappy as to place any confidence in
them, till fome friendly intercourfe has been eflablilhed.
We now fliaped our courfe for Tongataboo, and on our pafl^ge
thither fuch articles were forted out as it was thought the brethren
might with fome fafety take with them on their firfl: landing. On
Sunday the 9th, at ten A. M. we faw the land ; and at noon the
ifland of Eooa bore S.W. diftant feven or eight leagues. At half
pafl: four in the evening we tacked to the eafl:ward, the fmall ifland
of Eoo-aije bearing S.S.W..f W. difl:ant three miles, and then hove to
for the night, during which we had light winds and conftant rain.
At daylight, it continuing flill dark and hazy, we could fee no land
until feven A..M. when it ceafed raining, and the weather gradually
5$ FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
clearing up, Eoo-aijc bore W. and Eooa S. by W. ; the wind alfo
veered in our favour from W. N.VV. to N. by W. and frefliening to
a brifk o-alc \vc flood in for the harbour of Tongataboo. The
natives of Eooa had obfcrvcd us the preceding day; for a canoe with
four men, which muft liave put off from that ifland before dayhght,
was now paddling after the Ihip. This circumftance gave us fome
plcafure, as it both evinced their defire for our articles, and a confi-
dence in us.
Palling to the northward of Eoo-aije, we fleered W. S.W. to
the entrance, then W. by S. and W. up the harbour, followed by
the above canoe and feveral others, which put off from the eaftern
part of the main ifland and the iflets that lie fcattered upon the reef.
One of the large failing kind, with about fixty perfons upon her
platform, kept clofe to windward of us, and proved herfelf the
Ijetter failer by running ahead with eafe, then flackening their flieet
and falling aflern, then running ahead again, and fo on ; the fliip,
at the fame time, going fix knots and a half by the log, topgallant-
fails and flayfails fet. It appeared evident, that, had they chofen,
they could have run at the rate of feven knots and a half or eight
knots an hour.
In failing into the harbour we kept the north reef on board, until
we came to the narrow channel which bends to the N.W. which
we got through after making two or three fhort tacks with the tide
ftrong in our favour; then running a little way further, pafiing
Makahaa we hauled to the fouthward, and anchored in nine fathoms,
on a bottom of foft fand, about three quarters of a mile from the
fmall ifland of Pangimodoo, and moored with a flream anchor and
cable to the S.W. Once more, through a gracious Providence, fiife
anchored in the haven where we would be.
April.] TO THE SOUTH-SRA ISLANDS. 97
CHAPTER IX.
Occurrences during the Jirjl Vtjlt to Tongataboo.
Our followers were now all eager to come on board ; but though
we were willing to grant them every prudent indulgence, yet they
were too numerous to have free accefs : therefore about twenty only
were admitted ; and by placing fentrics along each fide of the deck,
we fucceeded in keeping the reft off, though very importunate to be
on board. The commodities they oftered for barter confiftcd of hogs,
bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, yams, fpears, clubs (which none were with-
out), and various articles ingenioufly manufadtured ; but their de-
mands were fo high that but little was purchafed. Neither the
Swedes nor Otaheiteans could underftand what they faid more than
ourfelves, which not only increafed the difficulty of trading with
fuch fcrupulous dealers, but embarraffed us in no fmall degree to
know how to fettle the more important bufinefs of the miffionaries.^
After dinner, a chief named Futtaf aihe was introduced to the cap-
tain, as a perfon of great power in Tongataboo ; and indeed fuch
he appeared : he was about forty years of age, flout and well pro-
portioned, of an open, free countenance, noble demeanour, and a
gait ftately, or rather pompous, for by it alone We fhould have
taken him for a very great man ; and by the attention with which
he furveyed every objed:, he appeared to pofTefs an inquifitive mind.
He talked a good deal in the cabin, but all we could colledl from it
was, that he was a great chief, and that fome white men were on
the ifland, and that he would bring them with him on the following
day. After the captain had made him a prefent of ah ax, a looking-
glafs, and fome other articles, he took his leave; and was hardly
o
98 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
from the fliip when two Europeans made their appearance ; they
came alongfide without hcfitation, and flipping on board with alacrity,
gave us the imfpeakablc plcafure of hearing our own language fpoken
by them ; a plcafure which proved at once our neceffity of fuch
inftruments, and our great diilance from home j for in their coun-
tenance, one of them cfpecially, there was fo much of the villain
marked, that in England a well-difpofed perfon would fliun them as
he would a fwindler or a pickpocket. However, bad as they ap-
peared to be, as they have to ad: a part in future, I fhall infcrt their
account of themfelves. One of them, named Benjamin Ambler,
fays,' that he was born in the parifh of Shadwell, London ; and that
his parents now keep a public-houfe in Cannon Street. He is a bold,
talkative, prefuming fellow ; feems to fpeak the language fluently,
and fays that he learnt it with great facility. John Connelly is a
native of Cork in Ireland, by trade a cooper, and is far lefs talkative
than his comrade. Ambler fays that they left London in a fliip
called the Otter, in which they failed to America; and there, for the
fake of better wages, left her to go in an American veffel bound to the
north-weft coaft on the fur trade. On their pafTage outwards they
touched at the iflands of St. Paul and Amfterdam, where they made
fome ftay, catching feals ; and proceeded thence to the Friendly
Iflands, in hopes of procuring refrefliments ; but having nothing but
old iron hoops to barter, the natives would not part with their hogs.
This induced thefe two, and four more, to leave the fhip ; for their
fait provifions were fo ba4 as to be fcarcely eatable, and fo fcanty as
forced them upon a fliort allowance ; therefore, dreading their cafe
might foon be worfe, they requefted the captain to difcharge them.
This he accordingly did, and they landed upon Annamooka, where
another American veflel called foon afterwards, and being in Avant
of feamen, engaged three of their number. An Irifliman named
Morgan remained at Annamooka, and they two had been about thir-
teen months at Tongataboo. They are both young men, not ex-
ceeding the age of thirty.
April.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 99
Ambler informed us that Futtafaihe was a great cliicf, ajid prc-
iided over all the eaflern part of the ifland ; but that there was an
old man named Tibo Moomooe, of greater power, and generally
efteemed as king over the ifland : at prefent, they faid, he was in a
bad ftate of health, for which rcafon he could not gratify his defire
to come on board when the Ihip firfl came to anchor ; but that he
intended, if poffible, to pay us a vifit on the morrow, or day fol-
lowing. From their high praifes of this old chief, we underftood
that humanity to his people, and hofpitality to flrangers, were pre-
dominant traits of his charader. This pleafing account of the chiefs
encouraged the captain to mention to Ambler the purpofe of our vifit,
the talents and charader of the miflionaries, their intentions of fer-
vice and good- will towards the natives, and to point out the certain
benefits which the latter would receive, if our people were fuffered
to live unmolefted among them ; at the fame time he requefted
tlieir opinion of men fettling at this place with fuch views. To
this he replied, that the natives would certainly receive them gladly
and treat them with kindnefs ; but refpeding property, they could
give no affurance of its fafety. Connelly, who feemed to fpeak with
the greateft candour, expreffed the danger their lives would be in if
encumbered with iron tools, they attempted to defend themfelves
from private robbers, which charadler might apply to every man on
the ifland when fuch temptations lay in their way.
As for a houfe, they had no doubt but Tibo Moomooe would
give them one, and alfo proted: their perfons ; but were of opinion,
that if all the ten lived with one chief they would not be fo well
fupplied with provifion as if they were to feparate to different parts
of the ifland. This was nearly all that pafTed at this time, or
indeed could, until Tibo Moomooe was acquainted therewith ; for
which purpofe they now left us, firfl promifing to return in the
morning with his anfwer.
While this was pafling, a large double canoe approached, in
which were feveral chiefs, who, either with a view of obliging us,
o 2
,00 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
or to fhcw their own arbitrary power, began driving the canoes from
the fhip, forcing them to the fliorc as fall as they could paddle ;
fomc had part of their crews on board, and could not get fo quickly
away, which the chiefs obfcrving, came at a great rate under the
Ihip's ftcrn where they lay, ran diredl over one canoe, and, as we
thought, would have hurt the people, but by their dexterity in
diving and fwimming they efcaped fafe : the others feemed quite in-
different to what they had done, and there being now nothing to ob-
ftrudl them, nor any farther fport, they came alongfide : one of
them, a remarkably flout man, we were informed was admiral, or
rather the navigator of their fleets, when they go on expeditions to
the other iflands ; another of note was Feenou, who we underftood
to be brother to him that was fo attached to Captain Cook. Each
of them received a prefent, and in a fhort time returned to the fhore,
when the canoes again furrounded us to trade, demanding for half
a dozen cocoa-nuts what would purchafe a hundred at Otaheite. On
the approach of night they all left us very quietly.
In the evening the captain and mifTionaries held a meeting, where
it was agreed, that, if a favourable anfwer was received from Moomooe,
fome of the brethren Ihould land as foon as poffible, to examine the
place, view the natives in their habitations, and fee how they were
likely to behave to them : after which they could more eafily deter-
mine what property it was fafe to take at firft, and alfo the propriety
of taking arms.
During the night heavy rain and fqualls of wind from the N.W..
nth. At daylight the large double canoe came alongfide again,
and in her feveral of the chiefs who had vifited us on the preceding
evening : thefe brought two hogs and a few yams, I fuppofe, in
return for the prefent which they had received. They introduced
themfelves into the cabin without much ceremony, and fat quietly
while we breakfafled : tea they refufed to take, but fome ate bifcuit
and butter v/it ti a feemingly good relifli. About ten o'clock in the
forenoon Ambler and Connelly came with a prefent of three hogs and
April.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. loi
fome yams from Moomooe, informing us that himfclf intended to
follow. Accordingly the venerable chief was very foon alongfide,
but was long before he durft venture up the ladder, fearing he had
not flrength fufficient for the tafk; he at laft however made the trial,
but was fo exhaufted thereby, that he was obliged to reft himfclf at
the gangway ; thence his attendants led him to the quart(.r-deck ladder,
where he again fat down, faying that he would not go before the cap-
tain till he was fhaved : and to pleafe him in this, Mr. Karris began
the operation, and finiflied it much to the fatisfacftion of this decent
chief, who then faluted the captain, and entered the cabin, followed
by twenty-two attendant chiefs and fervants : thefe fq.uatted themfelves
upon the floor, but the chief was placed in a chair, which he much
admired, thought he fat eafy in it, and, requefting it as a prefenf,
had it immediately given to him. He attentively furveyed the cabin
and its furniture, expreffing his admiration of all he faw, and afking
a number of very pertinent queftions : as, of v/hat wood were the
frames of the looking-glafTes,. fuppofing apparently the whole to be
of a piece with the gilded outiide : the fame of the different coloured
painted woods. Nor did they feem to admire the beauty of the whole
more than the neatnefs of every part of the workmanfliip. They
examined minutely the jointing of the chairs and of the mahogany
table, and expreffed no fmall degree of aftonifliment at finding them-
felves fo far excelled ; for they cherifli an idea of being fuperior to-
all their neighbours. When told that the men we had brought to
live among them could teach them thofe arts, and alfo better thin<TS,
they feemed quite tranfported. This favourable opportunity the
captain improved, by mentioning every circumftance that could raife
in their minds an high idea of the miffionaries ; interrogating Moo-
mooe as to his willingnefs for them to refide there, and alfo what
provifion he would make for them : to which he anfwered, that for
the prefent they fhould have a houfe near his own, until one more
fuitable could be provided ; they fhould alfo have a piece of land
for their ufe ; and he would take care that neither their property nor
,04 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
pcrfons Hiould be molcftcd : adding, that, if they pleafed, they might
go on fliore and examine the hoiife, when, if they did not hke the
fituation, he would order it to be removed to any fpot they preferred,
for this he could have done in a few hours.
For this purpofc I was fent in the pinnace, with Ambler and four
of the miffionaries, and landed about four miles to the weftward
of where the Ihip lay. The natives, as the boat approached, crowded
the fhore, apparently to gratify their curiofity only, for they all be-
haved peaceably, and fuffered us to pais along unmolefted. From
the beach we had to walk about half a mile, and when arrived at the
place, we found it furrounded by a fence of reeds fix feet high,
cnclofing three or four acres of ground : on which ftood five houfes,
two large and three fmall : the largeft, intended for the miflionaries,
was thirty-fix feet long, twenty broad, roof fifteen feet high in the
middle, and floping to the fides till only four feet from the ground,
refting upon wood pillars, and open all round : the floor was raifed
about a foot, and covered with thick clean matting. On the infide
there hung to the crofs beams an anchor, about fix hundred weight :
they had made a fliift to cut the ring out with hatchets, and fliared it
among the chiefs. It was of Englifh form, and probably the fame
Cook loft in 1774, though Ambler informed us they had it from
AnnamSoka, where it was left by an American brig.
From this we pafTed to the other large houfe, which, we were
told by Ambler, was facred to the God of Pretane, and in this old
Moomooe flceps when indifpofed, in hopes to obtain a cure. On the
floor were four large conch-lhells, with which they alarm the country
in times of danger : and on the rafters were placed fpears, clubs,
bows and arrows, to receive from their imaginary deity fupernatural
virtue, to render them fuccefsful againft their enemies. The whole
of this enclofure, we undcrftood, was what the natives call an abey,
of which there are fcveral j it being their manner of laying out their
dwellings, and which is properly the freehold of the chiefs who oc-
cupy them.
April.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 103
Our bufinefs being done, we returned to the fliip, where we found
the natives taking their departure for the fhore. And in this interval
of refl from noife and tumult the captain and miffionaries met to
confult on what was now bell to be done. The latter had feen the
houfe, approved of it, but thought the ground attached thereto too
fmall for their purpofes of gardening and agriculture. Befides this
objedion, another and greater was, that Moomooe, being an old man,
might foon die; in which cafe, efpecially if they were efteemed
ufeful, a difpute might arife among the chiefs about whofe property
they fliould be, or who fliould be their next protedor ; and were this
to happen before they had attained a knowledge of. the language, tliey
would not only be in danger of being ftripped of their property, but
alfo of lofing their lives. A third objedion was, that the chiefs mod
iifually refiding at Aheefo, a place at the weft end of the ifland, and
drawing after them the greater part of the inhabitants, would in
a great meafure fruftrate their ufefulnefs. Therefore it was only
agreed to go to this houfe, if they could do no better; but firft to fend
Ambler early in the morning to Feenou Toogahowe, to propofe their
refiding with him; and, if he willingly embraced the offer, they would
immediately land with fuch part of their property only as they con-
iidered it was abfolutely neceffary to take.
While Moomooe and the crowd of chiefs were in the cabin, they
regaled themfelves with a bowl of kava, which, though a delicious
treat to them, was fo difgufting to us, that we could not poffibly
go to dinner till they had finiflied, when it was near four in the af-
ternoon.
1 2th. By daybreak in the morning the canoes hurried off to the
fliip, endeavouring which Ihould get neareft, to trade. Among our
vilitors of note the firft was Futtafaihe, who came early, bringing
Connelly with him, to fpeak to the captain to place five of the mif-
fionaries with him. But for the reafons above mentioned, they would
not confent to live on this part of the ifland, nor to feparate, if poflible,
till they were better acquainted with the language and people : a
,c+ FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
promifc to vifit him when they were fettled gave him but little fatif-
fadion.
At nine o'clock Ambler came off with Toogahowe, who had already
atrrced with the former to take all the brethren under his protedlion,
alfo to give them a houfe, and the land attached to it, for their ufe.
Toogahowe, by Ambler's account, is the moft powerful chief in the
ifland ; is the greatcft warrior, and in confequence thereof is not only
a terror to the chiefs of Tongataboo, but likewife to thofe of the
adjacent iflands, which he vifited not long ago in a hoflile way, and
quickly brought them under fubjed:ion. We were further informed
concerning him, that on the death of a certain chief, the widow of the
former Poulaho, reliding in Eooa, fent her fervant to poflefs the lands
which the deccafed bad occupied, and which now belonged by right
to her J but before they arrived, Toogahowe had feized the property,
and refufcd to deliver it up. The widow, who had many adherents,
proceeded to drive him off by force ; but the attempt failed on her part,
and gave Toogahowe a pretext for feizing all her poffeffions, and
driving her and her adherents from Tongataboo. Since that he has
held his neighbours in a ftate of fear ; infomuch that it is thought
when Moom5oe dies he will be formally chofen into his place of
great chief, or king of the ifland. He is a ftout man, and may be
about forty years of age ; is of a fullen, morofe countenance ; fpeaks
very little, but, when angry, bellows forth with a voice like the
roaring of a lion.
As he came near to the fhip the natives readily made way for his
canoe, and behaved with fuch great awe in his prefence as tended to
confirm the account we had heard, and led us to confider him as the
mofl proper pcrfon under whofe protedion we might place the brethren.
Ambler, as above mentioned, Iiad already informed him of our defign ;
but for the fatisilidion of the mifTionaries, the captain, in their prefence,
with Ambler as interpreter, again recited every particular of our inten-
tions, and what we required of them ; obferving, that our fole induce-
ment to come fo far was to do them good, on which account we did
April.] TO THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS. icj
not think ouiTelves under the Icnfl obligation to them for pcrmittinp^
us to fettle in their country, as was hinted the day before by Moomooc ;
but, on the contrary, if they were unwilling to receive our people on
the conditions mentioned, or were not dcfirous of their ftay, the cap-
tain's determination was, to depart in a friendly manner, without
landing a man, Toogahowe feemed to underfland the greater part
of what was faid,. and made anfwer, that, if they chofe to land, they
might live there as they pleafed, and that nobody fhould hurt them ;
and in the afternoon he would fend a double canoe to take their thinsrs
on fhore. However, though the chief comprehended what wc
deemed fufficient for our prefent purpofe, it would be wrong to
fuppofe, after all our pains to make it plain, that he could have a
conception of the difinterefted views of the millionarics, nor yet
diveft himfelf of the idea of conferring a favour, in receiving and
afterwards maintaining them.
Ambler, with Toogahowe, had not been long on board, when he
informed us of a defign, which, if ever put in execution, would
probably have ended the voyage, if not our lives, at this place. The
plot, he told us, was to attack the fhip, and at that moment every
man in eight large double canoes, and in many hundred fingle ones,
were apprized of the intention, and prepared to join as foon as the
attack commenced. This was alarming intelligence j and though wc
fufpedled it a forgery of Ambler's, yet it behoved us to credit it till
%ve had by fecret and expeditious means prepared to repel them.
Accordingly, the fmall arms were laid in readinefs, and the great
guns caft loofe and loaded with grape fhot, and every man at his
quarters. We then turned all the natives out of the fliip, except
Toogahowe and his attendants, likewife ordered all the canoes from
alongflde ; and they, obferving an unufual flir upon the decks, and
the guns levelled at them, obeyed rather haftily ; drawing up in a
range ahead and aflern of the fliip, where they lay in that manner a
confiderable time, feemingly in expecflation of our firing a falute to divert
them, as former navigators might perhaps have done. Finding at lall
JP
,o6 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
that this was not whiit \vc intended, they wanted to come alongfKh;-
again ; but only a few fingle ones were Iiiffered to approach ; nor
would we ever after permit the double canoes alongfide, nor to make
their rope fall to the fhip.
The truth of Ambler's information we could never learn. As for
the canoes Iheering off fo readily, and lying ahead and aftern of the
fliip, as if no mifchief had been intended, it is no proof of their
innocence, for cunning and indifference is the favage manner of
ailing till they are openly detedled. What offends them is often of
fo trifling a nature, that, pafhng without our notice, their revenge
comes unexpedled. It was faid that Feenou, who came in the large
double canoe when we firfl: anchored, was at the head of this plot;
and his reafon for it, that he received nothing in return for a pig
which he brought us yell:erday, which pig the captain had confi-
dered as a compenfiition for what he received on his firft vifit : but
Feenou, when we faw him, flatly difowned having ever thought of
doing us the leail: mifchief j however, it gave us no fmall fatisfac-
tion to fee the canoes difperfe, for they could not contain lefs than
three thoufand men, each armed with a formidable club or fpear; fo
that, had they made a rulh upon our decks, where were only thirty
undifciplined men to oppofe them, they mufl have fucceeded.
Juft as this affair had fubfided, Moomooe called alongfide with a
prefcnt of a few yams for the captain, requeuing in return a glafs of
red wine, faying that what he drank the day before had been fer-
viceable to him : a bottle was accordingly put into the canoe, and he
immediately left us. We were all much prejudiced in favour of this
old chief, and beheld with concern that he was hafling fafl to that
bourn from whence no traveller returns.
Futtafaiheand Mytyle, two great chiefs, came down between decks,
joined with us in our devotions, and followed all our attitudes in the
profoundcf^ filence. They would fain have engaged us to go with
them ; but at Ambler's perfuafion, and promife to learn us the lan-
guage, we agreed to fix at his houfe.
April.] TO THE SOUTH- SEA ISLANDS. 107
In the afternoon the canoe came for the miffionaries* things, and
was immediately loaded; Bowell, Buchanan, Gaulton, Harper,
Shelley, Veefon, and Wilkinfon, accompanied by B. Ambler, em-
barked in it, and proceeded well ward to a place called Aheefo. A
petty chief, named Commabye, was ordered by Toogahowe to go
with them and fee that nothing was loft. Kelfo, Cooper, and Nobs,
remained on board to prepare the reft of the things.
I 3th. This morning, finding the natives crowd about us as much
as ever, and likely to be troublefome, the ftream anchor was ordered
on board, A paftage out of this harbour by the north was a defirable
objedl, either in cafe of a ftrong eafterly wind, or an attack from the
natives, when by cutting the cable an efcape might be effected : there-
fore the captain intended to go in fearch of it ; and accordingly we
were under way by nine o'clock, and, with a fine breeze from the
caftward and clear vi^eather, ftretchcd over towards the fmall ifland
of Faftaa, into fix fathoms, broken ground ; then ftood towards
Attataa, founding as we run along in twelve, thirteen, and fourteen
fathoms, until within two miles of the latter ifland, where, feeing
the canoe coming with fome of the brethren in her, we anchored in
twelve fathoms, broken ground.
About three o'clock in the afternoon flie got alongfide ; three of the
miffionaries were on board of her : they faid that Aheefo was farther
from the fiiip than they at firft underftood it to be ; and the landing
with goods was very bad, by reafon of a flat which runs from the
beach about half a mile, and over which they were obliged to wade
up to the knees ; and'after they got to the beach, had to go further
than a mile to reach the houfe ; difficulties which made the landing
of their things fo tedious, that fix hours were fully employed in
houfing them fafe : this great trouble was in fome degree lefifencd by
the natives. Their perfons were not molefted ; and though it was
dark, not a fingle article of their property was loft. It was near one
in the morning before all was fafe, and the houfe left to thcmfelves.
They then went to reft, refigning their perfons and property into the
p 2
,o8 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE ^ij^f.
hands of their God ; and told us, when they came next day, that
they never flept founder in their lives. In the morning the natives
provided a brcakfifl for them after the manner of the country. At
nine o'clock they fet off for the fliip, and, having the wind unfa-
vourable, were jufl fix hours on their paffage. Every thing was ia
readinefs ; therefore the canoe was immediately difpatched, leaving
on board fufficient for another lading. And that they might have
whatever was thought for the prefent neceffary, Buclranan and Nobs
ftaid on board to fee that fuch things were got in readinefs.
The cargo brought on fhore was furrounded by a hundred perfons;
who alarmed brothers Harper and Kelfo ;• but Mytyle ordered the
chefls into a houfe near, and difmilTcd the people, threatening if any
man, during the night, approached to ftcal, he fliould be put to
death. So we lay down on mats, in perfect fecurity, till waked by
Mytyle, at one o'clock in the morning, to partake of an entertain-
ment-, which he had provided, of filh, hot yams, cocoa-nuts, &c.
Before we weighed in the morning a woman of rank paid us a
vifit ; fhe was attended by many chiefs, and a vaft number of females,
who were all officious in their care of the old lady, whofe amazing
corpulence rendered her coming on board rather difficult. After her
there came four ftout fellows carrying a bundle of cloth, not quite fo
large but that two of them might have carried it with eafe ; this was
prefented in form to the captain, who gave her in return fuch things
as fully fatisfied her. The fliip being under fail we could not be
quite fo attentive to this great perfonage, as, according to their ideas of
ceremony, they might expeft ; however, any omiffion of ours they
found means to difpenfe with, by regaling themfelves in the cabin
over the kava bowl for about two- hours, when flie was told that the
fliip had got a confiderable diftance from her houfe : on this they
hafted into the canoe, and made fail for the fhore.
The refpedl paid to this old lady, and to many of her fex in Tonga-
taboo, diftinguifhcs them from the fervile condition to which females
ase fubjeded in other lavage flates or tribes. Here they polfefs the
April,] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 109
highell: degrees of rank, and fupport it with a dignity and firmncfs
equal to the men.
Futtaf aihe was on board mofl of the day, and was flill very impor-
tunate to have fome of the mifTionaries with him.
Towards the evening the weather became dark and unfettlcd, the
wind alfo variable from the weftward, which, though not dcfirablc
to us, was embraced by thofe who long for the night, that they may
put their dark defigns in execution. About midnight a canoe with
four men was obferved lying ahead of the fliip, evidently for no
good purpofe, but, as we fufped:ed, to cut the cable, that the fliip
might drive upon the coral reef, which at this time was only a Ihort
half mile aftern of us : however, as we had obferved them in time, wc
determined to drive them off without firing flaot, and for that purpofe
the gunner and his v/atch mates laid a quantity of cocoa-nut huiks
upon the forecaftle. Prefently, under cover of a fquall, they dropped
under the bow : without making the leaft noife for fear any of
them fliould get into the water unfeen, and hurt the cable, a volley
of the hufks was poured on their heads, the fudden furprife of
which caufed them to leap into the water, fome fwimming one way
and fome another, whilft the canoe, totally deferted, drifted aftern :
a mulket was alfo fired over their heads, that they might know thofe
inftruments of terror were in readinefs by night as well as by day.
As it was very dark, we foon lofl: fight of the men, but thinking the
canoe would prove the circumftance to the chiefs, and lead to a dif-
covery of the offenders, we therefore lowered the jolly-boat down
and picked her up. All the while it rained hard and blew frefli,
and Ibmetimes we could perceive the white furf breaking on the reef
aftern ;- fo that,, had they fuccecded in their defign, which was
doubtlefs to cut the cable, then the fhip at leail muft have been
loft in confequence of their infatiable defire for her lading.
14th. This difagreeable night was fucceeded by a morning alto-
gether mild and pleafant ; and with a cL^ar flcy and gentle breeze
wefterly, we again got under way in fearch of the northern pafiag<%
no FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797,
if there was a fafe one : and as Captain Cook, on entering in 1777,
ftruck on rocks, and defcribes the way they came as dangerous, we
explored farther to the weflward. The wind veering to the north,
wc had to piv, founding in ten, twelve, fourteen, and fifteen fathoms,
broken ground ; an officer at the maft-head looking out for flioals :
on one fpot which fliewcd white we had only fix fathoms. As we
drew near to the outer reefs an eligible pafTage was obferved, for which
we fleered, and went fafe through, leaving only one of all the reefs
cxtendinjr from Attataa on our flarboard fide : this reef is of a trian-
gular form, and bears from Faffaa N.W. | N. ; and when clofe to it
on the inner fide, the north end of Attataa bears W. 35° S. and
Mallcnooah E. 9" S. by the^ompafs; and thence through the channel
the courfe is about W. N.W.
Confidering our diflance from the fhore, we exped:ed to have but
few vifitors : on the contrary, feveral canoes followed us quite
without the reefs ; but, on account of laft night's adventure, none
of them were admitted on board, except our conflant friend Futta-
faihe, who prefented the captain with a fine turtle : he exprefTed great
diiapprobation of his countrymen's behaviour; faid he knew the
men, but as they did not belong to the part of the ifland over which
he prefided, he could not punifh them.
Being now without all the flioals, we fleered towards thewefl end,
to be nearer to the brethren, and at three in the afternoon the canoe
came alongfide ; Shelley and Cooper were in her. They reported
all was well ; that themfelves and thofe on fhore were perfedlly con-
tent with their fituation, and had abundant reafon to be thankful
for the favour which they experienced from the natives. The canoe
was completely loaded with the lafl of the things which they had
laid together as fufficient for their purpofes till our return j but they
afterwards thought a few boards might be of fervice in building a
houfe more fuitable than that which they occupied ; as the canoe
could not take them, the captain agreed to wait till the next day :
however, as they had faws of every kind, there was no abfolute
April.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. m
neceffity for the boards ; and the weather being uncertain, we took
an afFecftionate leave of the brethren ; promifing, notwithftanding, to
wait till the following day if poflible, and for that purpofc made
fhort tacks without the reefs for moll of the night. The wind N.N.W.
a frefli gale,
15th. At four in the morning we reefed the topfails, and tacked
to the N.E. ; at fix tacked again to the weftward. By this time the
wind had increafed to a hard gale, which forced us to relinquifli the
deiign of flaying longer : our fituation had now become fo critical,
by the wind blowing dired upon the reefs, that our concern was
how to clear the illand befl upon either tack : to effeft this, we kept
our flretch towards the weflward of the ifland, and expeded to
go clear of all danger ; but as we approached within three or four
miles of the point, bearing then about three points of the compafs
upon our lee bow, we faw heavy breakers ahead. In this cafe, to
bear up in hopes of a paffage between the reefs and the point, was
rifking a difappbintment which mufl inevitably prove fatal, as we
fliould then have no ofHng to return ; therefore we tacked, to try if
we could weather the north-eaft reefs, but foon perceived this to be
impofTible. The gale had increafed fo much, that we could hardly
carry double-reefed topfails, and we found the fhip was driving fall
towards the reefs ; fo that by the time we were abreafl of Attataa, we
faw plainly that, except we could fetch the paffage we had found out
the day before, nothing remained but fhipwreck. Providentially we
jufl weathered the reef on the weft fide of the channel by two or three
fhips lengths, and running through with aflurance were foon once
again in fafety, thankful for fo fignal a deliverance.
We were now in the harbour, but having no fufhcient reafon to
anchor in fo hard a gale, which alfo blew fair for us to proceed to
the fouth-eaft on our voyage, we fleered for the eaftern channel out
of the harbour, and were once more alarmed with danger; for in
running through the narrow paffage betwixt Moonafai and Mak-
kahah, by not hauling to the eaftward in time, we nearly ran upon
tI2
FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
the rocks. This was occafioned by the flying clouds through which
the fun broke at intervals, and formed very delufory appearances
upon the water. The captain was aloft looking out, and thought
he faw a fhoal on the larboard bow; he called to port the helm,
but the appearance vanifliing, he ordered it a-fliarboard. That iiiftant
we found ourfelves clofe to the lee reef, and running diredlly for it.
The fliip was ftill under the influence of the port helm, therefore
we put it hard down that way, and in a few feconds fhe was clofe
to the wind on the ftarboard tack, the reef fcarce twenty yards to
leeward of her, and about half a cable's length to run before we muft
heave her in ftays, and upon her not mifling, her fafety depended.
The crew -exerted themfelves, got the mizen fet, and we had the
joy to fee her come about on the other tack, check the current upon
the lee bow, and foon afterwards clear of danger and in good fea-
roomj then fliecring betwixt Eoo-aije and Eooa, we proceeded to
make the beft of our way to the Marquefas. Thus, after perils the
moft imminent, and providential deliverances the moft evident, we
^\'ere preferved in health for the accomplifliment of the work ap-
pointed us to do, and had planted a feed of divine truth which, we
hope, will take root and flourifli to the lateft generations.
May.} to THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 1,3
CHAPTER X.
Voyage to the Marquefas. — Difcoveries made. — TranfaElions at
Chrijlina.
XJ-APPILY extricated from the dangers which furroundcd us in
Tongataboo harbour, and once more paffed into the open fca, for
the firfl five days we had favourable winds, which fliortened our
diflance about eight hundred miles ; but afterwards, during mofl of
the time that we were to the fouthward of the tropic, we experienced
fucceffive gales from the eaflward, with high feas and raw cokf
weather. The higheft latitude we flood into was 39" 7^ S. where we
expeded to find the winds prevail more weflerly, but there was not
the leafl appearance of it ; only we had much worfe weather, and
the fhip was fuffering in her fails and rigging : therefore v/e tacked
to the northward into a more genial climate, and kept in about the
latitude 30" S. embracing every opportunity to get to the eaftward.
The cold weather affedled our Otaheiteans very much ; the boy
Harraway, however, kept up his fpirits j Tanno Manoo alfo behaved
very well j fhe had got clear of her fea-ficknefs, and by condudiing
herfelf in a modefl, affable, and obliging manner, was kmdly treated
by all on board : fhe was alfo of a good natural underftanding, evi-
dently fufceptible of improvement, and always ready to communiatej
and was of great fer\ace to Mr, Crook and others who were learn-
ing the language ; for by her means many of the fliibboleths of the
Swedes' pronunciation were corrected, and better explanations given
of the words. The captain gave her a warm week-day drcfs, and a
fliewy morning gown and petticoat for the Sundays ; and as flie
always kept herfelf clean, when drefTcd fhe made a very decent
„4 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [i797-.
appearance; taking more pains to cover her brealls, and even to
keep her feet from being feen, than mofl: of the ladies of England
have of late done. Tom was under the greateft apprehenfions, and
was fully perfuaded that he (hould die before he again reached Ota-
licite : in one of the gales he afkcd the captain if the fliip would
not die: indeed, during moll of the paffage he was very low-
fpiritcd, and fuffered more than the others from the cold. * We could
teach him nothing, and could hardly perfuade him to take any ex-
crcife ; while Harraway became a very ufeful boy in the fliip, could
iindcrftand almoU: any thing that was faid, and would run to do what
he was dcfircd with great readinefs. Crook taught him the alphabet :
alfo to read feveral fhort words in the Otaheitean language, of which
he printed a few for the purpofe. Thus much I have thought fit
to mention concerning them, becaufe I think both Harraway and
Tanno Manoo are proofs that the Otaheiteans taken young, and kept
from being held up as fhews by us like Omai, and from the infa-
tuating diverfions of their own ifland, are capable of receiving in-
ftrudion. However, thefe two were rather too old ; they had heard
and believed the flories their countrymen are ufed to relate ; and
perhaps all reafoning whatever would be impoffible to remove the
prejudices inculcated by thofe ftories, till the Spirit of God gives
convidiion to the confcience.
On the 1 9th of May the obferved diftance of the fun and moon
gave the longitude 223° 5' E. ; the chronometer, at the fame time,
222° 49' E. On the 23d we difcovered land; at eight A. M. the
extremities of a low ifland bore from W. 25° S. to W. 32° S. diftant
about five leagues ; and a high hummock, at a great difiance, bore
W. 3" S.; and another higher W. 2° N. This being a new difcovery,
we tacked a little before noon, on purpofe to take a nearer view.
Latitude at noon 23° 8' S. long. 225-^ 40' E. There being fcarcely
any wind, we made our approach but flowly, fo that night came on
before we got near ; therefore we fliortened fail, and lay by till the
morning.
May.] to THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 115
24tli. At daylight we flood towards the land, and as we drew
near found it very low and in form of a crefcent, with a lagoon in
the middle, into which the fea broke in feveral parts of the fouth-wcll
fide though no opening appeared that would admit a boat. We
perceived that it was inhabited ; therefore, when withui a mile of
the north-eaft fide, we hove the fliip to. and putting two feamen in
the jolly-boat, Mr. Wm. Wilfon and Mr. Falconer, with Peter and
Otaheitean Tom, who drelTcd himfelf for the occafion in a piece of
his own new cloth, rowed towards the fhore, intendmg to land
if the natives were friendly ; and as a means of ingratiating our-
felves into their favour, took beads, looking-glaiTcs, and iron tools j
alfo fome Englifli coin, to leave as a teftimony of our vifit. But on
our approach they colleded themfelves in a body to oppofe our land-
in- As they walked along the Ihore, the women followed with fpears.
the only weapons we faw; thefe they Ihook in a threatening manner,
and made figns for us to be gone. Tom flood up, fliewed them his
fkin his cloth, and tattou marks ; and fpoke to them in his Ian-
^uaie which they feemed not to underlland. Intent on their fafety
only and the defence of the barren fpot they inhabited, they aded
as if we were known enemies, viewing us with little curiofity or
aflonifhment. Finding that all our mancEUvres to conciliate them
had no effed, and that even to approach fufHciently near to give
them any thing would expofe us to a flone or a fpear, and perhaps
oblige us to fire upon them, we returned to the fhip, and hoifling
the boat up, fleered for the higher ifland. which bears from this
W.N.W. about nine or ten leagues. _
This was named Crefcent ifland, on account of its form^; it is fix
or feven miles in circumference, and lies in lat. 23° ^^ S. long.
""^The^e were many of the wharra trees upon it, and fome others of a
iifelefs kind. The fhore is grey coral fand and flones thrown up by the
violence of the fea, forming a wall at the fouth-eaft pomt about
twenty or thirty feet above the furface : on this point there were three
0^3
ii6 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
piles of coral ftoncs ; two were built round and fmall, and one fquare,
the fides of which might be about twelve feet and fix in height, with
a hole at one fide, feemingly to creep in at.
The natives whom we faw, were twenty-five in number, including
three or four women carrying children at their backs ; and thcfe pro-
bably were all that are on the ifland. They are of a light copper colour
and of middling ftatu re; there is a fimilarity in the accent of their lan-
guage to the other iflandcrs with whom we are acquainted, but the
dafliing of the fea againfl the flaore prevented Tom from hearing fo
diflindlly as to underftand them.
Some were quite naked, except a piece of cloth round their middle;
others had a large piece of cloth thrown over their fhoulders, and
reaching half way down the leg : one, who perhaps was the chief,
wore a piece of very white cloth round his head in form of a turban.
We could not perceive they wore any ornaments.
Upon what they fubfifted it was difficult to imagine, for they neither
have bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, or any fruit-trees whatever j nor could
we, with the whole ifland in view, fee one canoe wherewith to fifh ;
fo that they mufl either be tranfient vifitors from the high ifland, or
if permanent fettlcrs, and in any degree fcnfible of their fituation,
mull: be mifcrably wretched indeed.
It was noon when we left Crefcent ifland, and foon after we had a
frefli breeze northerly, attended with fqualls and rain, which lafted
about an hour, then cleared up, and gradually decliaed to little wind ;
fo that for a wliile v\,'e made but little way. At three P. M. a gale
fprung up at E.S.E. and it again became hazy with rain. We
diredled our courfe W. N.W. towards an ifland with two high hills
that lie contiguous to each other, and are fo lofty as to be difcovered
when diftant fourteen or fifteen leagues. Thefe, for diflindlion's
fake, were named Duff's mountains..
When within three leagues, we faw a- reef ahead, and the fea
breaking very high upon it : this obliged us to alter our courfe to
N.N.W. which we expeded would lead us clear of every danger
May.] to the SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 117
"vvhich lay on the eaft fide of the ifland ; but in this we were mif-
taken j for after running thus about an hour we had a better view,
and it appeared that Duff's mountains were part of an ifland about
tliree leagues in length, with feveral of confiderable height and
extent to the fouth and fouth-eafl of it ; the whole forming a group
five or fix leagues long, lying in a direction nearly N.E. by N. and
S.W. by S.; and a reef which lies off about three miles from the main
ifland, and probably encircles the whole as a defenfive barrier, ex-
tended as far each way as we could fee with the eye. Upon this reef
were feveral dry fpots, upon which cluflers of trees grew, and ap-
peared like fo many fmall low iflands without the higher ones. It
was now the dufk of the evening, and we had one of thofe half-
drowned fpots ahead, bearing N.W. by N. and others in fight beyond
it ; and uncertain what dangers more might lie in our way, it was
refolved to fpend the night within the fpace we already knew ; and
accordingly we hauled our wind to the N.E. under an eafy fail. The
natives on the north end of the ifland had obferved our approach,
and they, to alarm their countrymen, as foon as it was dark made a
large fire, which at times prefented a very curious phenomenon, ap-
pearing like fix or feven detached lights, then prefently joining
fhewed as if the fide of a mountain was wholly in a blaze.
This light, which they kept burning till near daybreak, proved a
real benefit to us as a guide; for the night was very dark, with
variable winds and fqualls, and heavy rain.
At fix in the morning the north part of the iflands bore N.W.
difiant two or three leagues ; when, widi a frefh gale from the. N.E.
we fleered W. N.W. clofe to the reefs ;, and from this ftation obferved
it to trend fouth about five miles, then to the S.W. farther than we
could fee : thence we hauled towards the northcrnmofl: part of the
reef, where was a fmall iflet, upon which were afTcm-bled about fifty
natives armed with fpears ; and as we pafTed the place where they
Aood, within a quarter of a mile, we obferved boys taking flones
off the beach, and making geftures as if they, would throw
,,g FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
them at us : the men alfo fhewing marks of a hoftile difpofition,
walked along the ftiore to keep abreaft of the fliip, but as we left
them fart: they retired behind the trees. Thefe trees feemed to be of
the fame worthlefs kind as thofe at Crefcent ifland ; the natives alfo,
in colour, flaturc, and drefs, exadly the fame as thofe we faw there.
We obftrved no canoes, though it is moft probable they have fome, as
thefe people muft have come from the high ifland either in a canoe or
by wading, which latter feems imprafticable. The main ifland, and
thofe fcattercd about it, are, as before noticed, all high, and the
reef keeping the fea quite flill about them, they prefent a view ro-
mantic, wild, and barren : the valleys, however, appear covered with
trees, but of what kind we could not perceive, though fome faid
they could diftinguifli cocoa-nut trees ; and it is certainly likely they
fhould have the fruits and roots common to the other iflands, and
muft have abundance of fifli.
The tops of the hills, to about half way down, are chiefly co-
vered with fun-burnt grafs ; and in fome places there are fpots of
reddifh foil, as on the middle grounds of Otaheite.
The group was named Gambier's iflands, in compliment to the
worthy admiral of that name, who, in his department, countenanced
our equipment. Duff's mountains, which lie in the centre, are in
lat. 23° \i' S. and in long. 225° E.
We had now got fufEcient eafting, and were in the way of the
trade-winds, therefore kept on our courfe to the northward j all on
board in good health, and in no real want of any thing. But as the
pafTage from the Friendly Ifles had already been longer than we ex-
pedted, the captain thought it neceffary to pufh on for the Marquefas -,
and on this account, though we had reafon to fuppofe ourfelves in a
dangerous part of the ocean, we run by night as well as day ; only
put the fhip under a proper fail for altering our courfe on any fudden
emergency.
26th. Athalfpaft five in the morning, juft as the day broke,
we thought we faw low land ahead, and feeming to be very clofe.
May.] ■ TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 1,9
wore fliip and ftood from it about a quarter of an hour, then tacked
towards it again, when the day prefented to our view the imminent
danger we had efcaped. For that part which we were running for,
and many others, were even with the water's edge, the fea walhing
over them into the lagoon ; and it is very probable, that, had the
weather been hazy, or the day not fo near, we might have ftruck
before we either faw the rocks or heard the fea beat upon them, as it
made but little noife. The ifland is in length about feventeen miles
from eaft to weft, and in breadth about eight or nine miles : and
upon the reef which enclofes the lagoon, there are feveral clumps
of trees, but no cocoa-nut or other fruit-trees that we could fee, nor
any fign of inhabitants. This ifland, lying in lat. 21" 36' S. by
obfervation, and in long. 224° 36' E. by chronometer, is probably
the fame called Lord Hood's ifland by Captain Edwards, who dif-
covcred it in the Pandora, 17th March 1791. We continued our
courfe, and in two or three hours were out of fight of it. In the
duflv of the evening of the following day we thought that we faw
high land on our lee beam ; but judging that to run down to put the
matter out of difpute would be taking us too much to leeward, we
left it for fome future navigator to determine. However, if it really
be an ifland, it muft lie nearly in latitude 20° 30' S. and about the
longitude of 223° 18^ E.
28th. At noon we obferved in latitude 18° 34'' S. and about three
in the afternoon difcovered another low ifland bearing N. E. As it
is not laid down in any of the charts, and the wind at N.W. being
againft us, we kept our ftretch towards it, and as we drew near found
it a lagoon ifland, with patches of trees on different parts around it.
On the north-weft end cocoa-nuts were growing, and near them a
clump of lofty dark-coloured trees. Two clumps alfo of the fame
kind ftood at a little diftance from each other on the fouth-eaft part :
thefe laft we named Turk's Cap and Friar's Hood.
At half paft feven o'clock we tacked within a mile of the north
end, then took the topgallant-fails in, hauled the courfes up, and
,;o FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
during the night made fhort tacks under the topfails. In the morn-
ing, the 29th, we found ourfelves farther off than we expeded,
owing to the lecwardly current; and the wind changing to N. N.E.
with our larboard tacks aboard we ftood in, and at eight o'clock
had the fouth point of the ifland bearing E. | N. diftant three miles.
Shortly after it fell little wind, and we lowered the jolly-boat down,
rowed clofe to the fliore, and tried to effed: a landing, but found it
impradticable, on account of the high furf which beat upon the coral
jocks. Suppoflng we might find a better place, we rowed along
fliore two or three miles, till we came to the fouth-eaft fide, but had the
mortification to find it every where the fame, therefore we returned
to the Ihip. Obferved at noon in lat. 18° 24^ S. ; the extremes of
the ifland from N. I4°W. to N. 56° W. We had feen no figns of
inhabitants, and having lofl hopes of finding a landing-place, the
captain had determined to leave this ifland and proceed on our voyage
as fail as the unfavourable winds we then had would permit.
•In the courfe of the night we had paffed to windward of the ifland,
and at fix in the morning had the north- wefl end bearing S.W. by S.
and the fea being then fmooth encouraged a hope of procuring a
few cocoa-nuts for our people, and herbage for the goats. There-
fore we again fhaped our courfe towards it ; but, before we came
near it by four miles, it fell almofl calm; fo that, as the fhip went
but flowly down, we hoifted the pinnace out, and I, with the third
officer and a boat's crew, with Peter and Tom, fet off in her.
When we had got about a mile round the point, all in the boat
(except one man and myfelf, who were but indifferent fwimmers)
got into the water and effedled a landing, though the furf was
very high. From the edge of the reef they had to walk about a
furlong, up to the knees in water, over a hard coral flat, before they
came to the trees : and while they were gone, I fhot three or four
man of war birds, and tried to catch fome of the beautiful fifli which
fwam without the furf; but they were too flay of the bait. Sharks
cf various fizes were very numerous..
May.] to THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 121
At noon they oblcrved at the fliip in 18" 14' S. the north-well
end bearing S. S. W. i W. a mile and a half; and an hour after, in
rounding the point not more than a cable's length off fliorc, founded
with ninety fathoms of line, but found no bottom.
We had already hauled off a few cocoa-nuts ; but this method was
fo tedious, that all we could procure by it would not repay the trouble.
But juft about this time it was low vv^ater, and the furf fell remark-
ably, fo that by putting the boat's Hern to the rocks I ftepped out,
without fo much as wetting my feet. This both encouraged thofe
on fliore to go on, and being obferved from the fliip, induced them
to fend the jolly-boat with more hands to affift us. And now we
were in hopes of getting a plentiful fupply without difficulty or dan-
ger J ignorant that it was poffible only at low water thus to pafs and
repafs. This we were to learn afterwards by unpleafant experience.
The land at this end of the illand is about three furlongs in
breadth j upon it the only cocoa-nut trees grow, and upon that fide
next the lagoon, confequently the fartheft off from us. The way
to them, by paffmg through the other trees, is alfo very rough and
bad ; but by fearching, we found a pleafant road along the fide of a
creek, leading from the fea into the lagoon, and fufficient in depth to
admit the jolly-boat, when the tide was up. Therefore this was
propofed as our plan : to get as many nuts as poffible before four in
the afternoon, and then bring the boat in for them.
Accordingly, by that time we had got about three hundred ; but,
contrary to our expeftations, as the tide rofe the furf increafed to fo
great a degree as to render it almoft impoffible either to get them or
ourfelves fafely through it. However, to put it to the trial, the jolly-
boat was brought abreaft of the creek, and by watching an opportunity
w-as rowed through the furf, but not without ftriking on the rocks, by
w^hich we knew there was no chance for the pinnace to get in. As there
were thirteen of us on fhore, the fmall boat was infufficient to carry off
the wdiole. To make it ftill worfe, we faw the wind was increafing,
jand the flcy become overcaff with dark clouds. Therefore, being
R
122
FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797:
thus critically fituated, it was adopted as the moft prudent plan, for
thole who could fwim but little to make the firll attempt in the jolly-
boat, and for the others to flay on fliore all night, and fo fwim off to
the boats in the morning. Accordingly, four of our number were
pitched upon to make the effort, and they probably would have fuc-
ceeded, had not two others, who thought themfelves as bad fwimmers^
as any, jumped in, and thereby making the boat too deep, {\\e
grounded on the rocks, where the fea broke, and filling her, it
was with difficulty they got back into fmooth water. This failure
damped all our fpirits, as we were very anxious to have fome more
hands on board to work the fliip, left flie fhould be blown to leeward,
and not be able to get up to us again^ Thus urged by necefTity, the
third officer, with two men, made a fecond attempt, and fucceeded,
but not without being again half filled with water. When clear of
the furf, they rowed to the pinnace, and both returned to the fhip,
to inform the captain of the difagreeable news of myfelf and nine
more, including the two Otaheiteans, being left on the ifland.
Our fituation on ffiore was extremely uncomfortable and alarming j
however, to make the befl of it, after feeing the boats fafe off, we
Avalked up to the large clump of trees, and being thinly clothed and
quite wet, we endeavoured to make a fire ; but after Otaheitean Tom
had tried two hours in vain for a light by fridion, we were reduced
to the neccffity of paffing the night without a fire. About ten o'clock
It began to rain very hard, and continued till three in the morning,
when there was a Ifiort interval of fair weather, and then conflant
rain till near noon the next day. To all this we were expofed, for
the trees afforded us flicker only till the branches were completely
wet, and this was very foon ; fo that I was apprehenfive of fevers at
leafl being the confequence of this drenching j but, to lelfen its effed:s,
requeued the men to walk about, and keep in motion, which they
did, and cheered each other by faying they fometimes faw the fhip's
light.
^ 3ifl;. At daybreak the fhip flood clofe in, and the captain, who
May.] to TFIE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 123
was very anxious for our fafcty, fent the pinnace to try and get us
off; but with concern we beheld the furf higher than on the preceding
night, which obhged us to remain and wait the opportunity low
water might afford, falling out on this day about one o'clock in the
afternoon. They accordingly put back to the fliip, and prefently
after came again to the edge of the furf, when one man leaped in and
got fafe to us with a bottle of brandy, which was of great fervice in
raifing the droopi.ig fpirits of the people, who had fpent fo bad a
night, and had ftill a difficult tafk to perform. This done, the boat
put off again, and about ten o'clock returned with a ftage made of
fir deals, with dirccftions from the captain to bring the boat to a'
grapnel as clofe to the furf as they could with fafety, and then,
after making a ' rope fall: to the ftage, to veer it alhore within our
reach, when we were to get upon it and be hauled through the furf,
one or two at a time. Mr, Falconer was in the boat, and did as
dired:ed ; but the back fweep of the fca prevented the ftage from even
entering the furf, fo that we were ftill in the fame fituation as before.
Thus difappointed, we walked along the fliore, to try if any better
place could be difcovered, the boat following abreaft of us ; but wc
found it alike dangerous. At one place two of us tried to fwim off
to the ftage, but were wafhed about, and nearly dafhed to pieces
againft the rocks, before the reft could help us out.
Low water was faft approaching, and nothing now remained but
a chance of getting off at the place where I ftepped on fhore at the firft.
We accordingly returned thither, but w^ere greatly diflicartened to find
it as bad as every other place : we refolved, however, to watch till the
time of low water was over ; certain that if no opportunity offered
then, we muft content ourfelves where we were, and that perhaps
for months, as the fliip w^as now driving faft to leeward. Low
water at laft came, but the fea was ftill (o rough that Otaheitean
Tom, Mr. Crook, and fome more, walked up in dcfpair towards
the clump of trees, to try if poffible to procure fome dry wood, with
which to get a light and a fire, which they ftood much in need of,*
R 2
,24 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
being wet and cold, the wind blowing through their thin clothing.
But, to our great joy, they were fcarcely gone, when the fea at inter-
vals became Imooth ; one man got off to the ftage, and was hauled
to the boat. We inftantly called them to us, and by embracing every
opportunity, fwimming to the flage one by one, we at length got all
fafe off. On trying to haul the grapnel up, we found it had fallen
into the hollows of the coral rocks, which obliged us to cut the rope
and leave it behind. Thefe hollows add greatly to the danger of
fwimming off to the boats, for if the fca forces up or retires fuddenly,
there is a riik of falling into them and being hid under great flakes
of the rock. The dread of this, and of drowning in the furf, ba-
nifhed from our thoughts the fliarks which fwam thick about the
place. We now rowed towards the fliip, which had drifted about
four miles to leeward. The captain was overjoyed to fee us, as were
all the crew. The boat was hoifted in, and we made fail, fully de-
termined never again to venture a landing upon one of thofe low
half-drowned iflands, except obliged thereto by want or other abfo-
lute neceflity.
This received the name of Serle's ifland, in compliment to a gen-
tleman of that name now in the Tranfport office, and author of
Horae Solitariae and other valuable works. The latitude of its centre
is 18° 18' S. long. 223° E. i it is in length from S. E. to N.W. feven
or eight miles, and in breadth four or five j it has a lagoon in the
middle, where we obferved feveral fmall rocks above water. The
reef without and the lagoon within abound with fifh, feveral of
which were of the moft richly varied and beautiful colours that can
be conceived. As Mr. Robfon walked by the fide of the lagoon in
the night, he obferved thoufands of young Iharks fwimming clofe
to the fhore. Mullet are very plentiful, and when low water left
part of the reef dry, feveral fpotted eels iffued from holes, and on our
approach reared upon their tails, attempting to defend themfelves with
open mouth. The birds were the fame as at the other low iflands ;
and befides there was here a bird about the fize and colour of a lark,
May.] to the SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 125
which we had not feen before ; and during the night we heard one
whiftle like and equal to a blackbird : indeed, by their various notes,
there was reafon to fuppofe this place gave Iheltcr to many diften.nt
fpecies, with this peculiar feature, that they fung almoft all the
night long, though it rained and was very dark. We fkw fome rats,
plenty of the red (fhell) crab, and a kind of land lobfter, which
even the Otaheiteans were flrangcrs to.
The trees are various as at Palmerfton's ifland ; but the cocoa-nuts
are fcarce here, and only found on the north- weft end : thofe which
form the clumps are peculiar; they grow about fixty feet high, with
large trunks from four feet to four or five yards in circumference,
dividing about half way up into large branches, with a broad dark
green leaf. As the foil is very thin, many of thefe trees had fallen,
their branches had taken root, and were again grown up to five or
fix trees as large as the old one. The wood appeared to be of no
ufe but to burn. Under flielter of this grove there was regularly
built a morai of ftones, with one ftone at a little diftance placed
upright : we alfo found the remains of two or three huts, and a
plain fpace, with only one circular cut near the end. At one place
clofe by thefe were flrewed on the ground vaft quantities of clam
fhells. All which proved the ifland to have been once inhabited; but
whether the perfons had emigrated elfewhere, or become extindt,
there was no remaining evidence whereon to form a conjedlure, as the
latter is as probable as the former ; for it is likely they would be
no more than the crew of one canoe, who, by the number of clam
fhells, muft have fubfifted here a confiderable time, perhaps till
their canoe was rendered fit to tranfport them to another ifland. It
is likely alfo that the cocoa-nut trees, as they grew fo partially and
fo near the morai, were of their planting; and by the few of thefe
which had fallen in the ufual manner, we fuppofe it could not be
more than fifty years fince they were firft planted.
One circumftance here is very ftriking, which is, that however
fmall in number the wretched refugees might have been, a morai.
,:6 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797;
or place of worfliip, was thought by them indifpenfably necellliry ;
it proves, that, however their ideas of fupernatural beings are be-
wildered, they ftill univerllilly hold the lame tradition among them :
and notwithftanding the inhabitants of different iflands give their
peculiar names to their guardian deity, the manner of worfliip being
every where the fame, proves the tradition originally to be from one"
fource.
Concerning the formation of thefe low iflands the opinions of men
are various ; but whether fuch a mafs of matter grows like a flirub,
or be the work of millions of animalcules, is what I mufl: leave to
the learned. It appears, however, that in their perfed: flate they,
come no nearer to the furface than where the fea breaks upon them.
The part of this ifland that we were upon I fuppofe to have rifen
about two or three furlongs in breadth, and by the force of the fea
againft the outer edge the parts projefting were broken off; thefe, as
the fea drove them towards the lagoon, would fl:rike other parts and
force them off, and a heavy ftorm coming on would, with irrefiflible
violence, drive them up in a ridge at fome diftance from the fea-fide,
and near to the edge of the lagoon. This is evidently the cafe here.
The firfl: ridge lies within one hundred yards of the lagoon, and
about three furlongs from the edge of the reef next the fea. The
fecond ridge runs within ten yards of the firfl:, and the furrow be-
tween is about ten or twelve feet deep. The other ridges, of which
there are many, are nearly about the fame diftance, and the furrows
the fame, differing only in proportion as we may fuppofe the ftorms
to have done which threw them up : thefe being compofed entirely
of large coral ftones, prove this to have been the caufe; and the ridges
lying lengthwife in a dirediion about north and fouth, demonftrate
that no other than gales from the weftward could have produced
this effedl on this fide of the ifland : and it is known, that winds
from that quarter, though not exceflively ftrong, raife a more hollow
and heavy fwell than any other. At prefcnt, about a furlong from
the outer edge of the reef, the ftones, after running over a flat of
June.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 127
that breadth, form a fleep wall not Icfs than eight or ten yards above
the furface of the fea; but even over this height the flones are driven,
and fhooting a confidcrable way in, cover fome of the former ridges,
and form a gradual flope. Indeed it is almoft incredible what large lumps
of folid coral lie thrown half way up the fteep wall above mentioned.
I remarked no other part of the ifland where fuch effedts of ftorms
were to be feen ; in fome places more towards the S.E. and where
the land was not more than a furlons: in width, it was low and
covered with fine white coral fand, mixed with rotten vegetables and
leaves of trees that grow upon it : this in general is the kind of foil;
even upon the large ftones this rotten matter and the coral fand
are blown, and there the trees are more flourifliing and abundant
than in other places.
From this time nothing material occurred until we made the Mar-
quefas. One of the Serle's ifland party had a fever for three or four
days, but foon got the better of it, and was the only one that fuf-
fered from that expedition. As we were trufting wholly to our time-
keeper, we found ourfelves, after fo long a paflage, contrary to our
expedlation, confiderably to the weflward, when we faw Santa
Chriftina on the 4th of June, a little before funrife in the morning,
bearing E.N.E. diftant nine leagues. Being thus to leeward of our
port, we kept plying till the afternoon of the following day, and
look feveral compafs bearings, to afcertain the extent and relative fitua-
tion of the iflands.
,2S FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
CHAPTER XI.
Occurrences at the Marqucfas-,
5tln. W HEN we had got within four miles of Refolution bay, wc
faw two men paddling towards us in a fmall, wretched canoe, which
they kept above water by conllant bailing. Not knowing their in-
tention to come on board, nor conceiving them of any ufe if there,
we kept all fail fet, and paffed clofe by them with great velocity :
this they obferved, and being more anxious to come aboard than we
imagined, one of them leaped into the water, caught a rope we
hove to him, and expertly hauled himfelf hand over hand to the
quarter- gallery, where we took him in quite naked. At firft he
looked round the cabin with furprife, but foon recovered himfelf
and ran upon deck. He was tattowed from head to foot, infomuch
as nearly to hide his natural colour ; he talked very faft, and was
tolerably underflood both by Crook and the Otaheiteans : the earneft-
nefs which he expreffed was to induce us to tack and pick up his
comrade, who he gave us to underfland was his father ; and that if
we did not take him in, it would be impoffible for him to reach the
ifland in fo wretched a canoe, as the wind blew ftrong. However,
to eafe him of his fears, we took the father on board and the canoe
in tow, but fhe foon went to pieces and drifted away, which feemed
to give them little concern. The wind, as we drew near the land,
became variable and fqually, and as we were flretching towards
St. Dominica, to avail ourfclves of a favourable flaw, the captain
gave orders to ^ack towards the bay. This both the natives oppofed,
and made figns, that by keeping on the fame tack until we run far*
JuNfi.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 129
ther, we fliould then fetch the bay when we tacked. Their advice
was taken, and anfwering accordingly, was a proof of no fmall
degree of nautical ikill in them.
We found it very difficult to work up the bay, by rcafon of the
heavy gufts of wind from the mountains ; however, by feven o'clock
we were clofe up, and let go our fmall bower anchor in fifteen fa-
rhoms water j veered out eighty fathom of cable as faft as we could,
but before it held we had dragged it into thirty-five fxthoms. Though
it was now dark two females fwam off, in hopes, no doubt, of a
favourable reception; but finding they could not be admitted, they
kept fwimming about the fliip for near half an hour, calling out, in
a pitiful tone, Waheine ! waheine ! that is. Woman ! or. We are wo-
men ! They then returned to the fhore in the fame manner as they
came : our two pilots alfo followed them, but not till they had ufed
all their arguments for the captain to allow them to fleep in the fliip ;
and, but for the fake of precedent, their requeft would have been
granted, as a reward for the implicit confidence they placed in us.
6th. This morning we began unbending moft of our fails, and
ftripping the foremaft, that the rigging might have a thorough over-
haul ; one of the flirouds we knew to be broken in the way of the
maft-head, and now found another gone on the fame fide ; fo that
had we not providentially been on the larboard tack when we expe-
rienced the fevereft gales, we mufl: certainly have lofl the foremaft,
which we could not replace in any of thefe parts.
Our firft vifitors from the fhore came early j they were feven beau-
tiful young women, fwimming quite naked, except a few green leaves
tied round their middle : they kept playing round the fhip for three
hours, calling Waheine! until feveral of the native men had got on
board ; one of whom being the chief of the ifland, requefted that
his fifter might be taken on board, which was complied with : fhe
was of a fair complexion, inclining to a healthy yellow, with a
tint of red in her cheek, was rather ftout, but pofTefilng luch lym-
metry of features, as did all her companions, that as models for the
8
J 30 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
flatuaryand painter their equals can feldom be found. OurOtaheitean
girl, who was tolerably fcur, and had a comely perPon, was notwith-
ftanding greatly eclipfed by thefe women, and, I believe, felt her
inferiority*^ in no fmall degree; however, fhe was fuperior in the
amiablenefs of her manners, and pofleffed more of the foftnefs and
tender feelino of the fex : fhe was afhamed to fee a woman upon the
deck quite naked, and fupplied her with a complete drefs of new
Otaheitean cloth, which fet her off to great advantage, and encou-
raged thofe in the water, whofe numbers were now greatly increafed,
to importune for admiffion; and out of pity to them, as we faw
they would not return, we took them on board: but they were in a
meafure difappointed, for they could not all fucceed fo well as the
firft in getting clothed ; nor did our mifchievous goats even fuffer
them to keep their green leaves, but as they turned to avoid them
they were attacked on each fide alternately, and completely flripped
iraked.
The chief above noticed is named Tenae, eldeft fon of Honoo, the
rei"-ning prince in Captain Cook's time ; he came in a tolerably good
canoe, and introduced him,felf by prefenting the captain with a
fmooth ftaff about eight feet long, to the head of v/hich a few locks
of human hair were neatly plaited ; and befides this, he gave a few
head and breaft ornaments. Obferving a mulket on the quarter-
deck, he took it with care to the captain, and begged him " to put
♦' ittofleep." He received an axe, a looking-glafs, and neck-chain/
to hang it to, alfo a pair of fciffars; the latter, an article much prized
at the Friendly and Society ifles, he was either indifferent abaut, or
totally ignorant of their ufe. Two of his brothers, who were pre-
fent, expreffed not the leaft defire for any thing ; they all feemed to
have a thoughtful caff in their countenance, fuch as men acquire
who are ftruggling for fubfiftence and can hardly get it, though they
would frequently break out into mad fits of laughter, and talk as
faft as their tongues could go, and this the women did as well as the
men. It appeared that this was a very fcarce time with them, for
JiTN'E.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. ■ ,3,
they kept complaining they were hungry and begging for viduuls
all the while they were on board ; to fome we gave a little, but they
were too numerous for us to fupply all : as for the women, they arc
in that ftate of fubjedlion, that, if they got any thing and could not
conceal it, the men took it from them. Towards evening thofe who
had no canoes, and who were by far the greateft number, leaped all
together into the water and fwam on fhore.
Our intention of fettling two men among them being made known
to the chief, he feemed highly delighted with the propofal, and faid
that he would give them a houfe and a fhare in all that himfelf had.
After this he went on fhore j I followed with Mr. Harris, Mr. Crook,
Peter, and Otaheitean Tom. Tenae received us upon the beach, and
conducing us a little way dcfired we would flop, as we thought, to
gratify the natives, for they formed a ring around us, thofe neareft
the centre fitting, to let thofe behind look over their heads : Tenae's
fifter not following the example of the refl, he reproved her, which
brought tears from her eyes. This fliew continued about a quarter
of an hour. Afterwards we proceeded up the valley, accompanied by
the chief, his brother, and many of the young natives. The road
was very indifferent, by reafon of tree roots that crofs it, and large
ftones which lie in the way; and being all up hill, we were pretty well
tired by the time we reached the chief's houfe, though we refled
thrice, at which times they brought excellent water in cocoa-nut
fliells from a rivulet that runs down the valley. The bread-fruit and
cocoa-nut trees, with a variety of other forts, afforded a comfortable
fhade from the heat of the fun. Tenae conduded us to one of his
befl houfes, intimating that it was for the ufe of the brethren, and
that they might occupy it as foon as they pleafed. To convey aa
idea of what this and all their bcfl-built houfes are like, it is only
neceffary to imagine one of our own of one ftory high with a high
peaked roof; cut it lengthwife exad:ly down the middle, you would
then have two of their houfes, only built of different materials.
That we now occupied was twenty-five feet long and fix wide, ten.
'3*
FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797,
feet high in the back part, and but four in front ; at the corners four
ftout itakcs are driven into the earth, on which are laid horizontal
pieces, and from thefe laft to the ground are bamboos neatly ranged
in perpendicular order, about half an inch diftant from each other ,-
and without them long blinds made with leaves are hung, which
make the infide very clofe and warm : the door is about the middle
on the low fide. They do not ufe the leaves of the wharra tree
here for roofing, as at Otaheite, but common broad leaves, which
they lay fo thick as to keep the water out ; but the greater part of
their houfes are miferable hovels.
The infide furniture confilled of a large floor mat from end to end,
feveral large calabaflies, fome fifhing-tackle, and a few fpears j at
one end the chief kept his ornaments, which he fhewed to us ;
amongft other things, he took out of two bamboo cafes, two bunches
of feathers of the tail of the tropic-bird, not lefs than a hundred in
each bunch, forming a beautiful and elegant ornament : upon thefe
he feemed to place a great value.
They made no offer of any thing to eat, except a few cocoa-nuts ;
nor did I fee that they had any other thing in ufe but thefe and
the four mahie. Hogs and fowls were walking about, but in no great
plenty j indeed this appeared to be their fcarce feafon ; for when
we firft landed one fellow ran to me and fluffed a piece of mahie
into my mouth, thinking, no doubt, that at this feafon of fcarcity
he was doing me a great kindnefs. However, in other refpedls,
Tenae treated us very well, and the people were evidently glad to fee
us among them.
On our return to the fliip, the captain met the two brethren in
the cabin, to know their fentiments of this place, and whether they
were flill in the fame mind to fettle upon it. Mr. Crook obferved,
that he was encouraged by the reception they had met with j thought
the chief had behaved exceedingly well, and approved of the houfe
afligned them, the place, and the people j and concluded by faying,
that though there was not the fame plenty here as at the other illands.
June.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 133
he had no objedlions to Ray, as he never before nor fince his en-
gagement had comforts in view ; therefore the prefcnt Hate of the
ifland was not fo great a difappointmcnt to him. However, appear-
ances gave him reafon to think that they had their plentiful feafons
here as well as at the other iflands. Mr. Harris delivered his
fentiments with hcfitation, as if fear had taken pofleffion of his
mind : his opinions were quite contrary to Crook's ; he difapproved
of every thing, and judged the fccne before him a folcmn one; and,
hi fhort, feemed entirely to have loll his firmnefs and ardour. How-
ever, as the kind reception by the chief and his people had obviated
every diredl objeilion to them, it was agreed to go on fliore the next
day, take their beds with them, and make a trial j after which, if they
thought it unfafe to ftay, and afligncd their reafons, they might
then return on board, as no compullion was intended.
7th. It is remarked, that honefty is no virtue of a South-Sea
iflander, efpecially when our articles lie expofed to tempt him. The
natives here had not hitherto appeared folicitous to barter with us ;
but fome of them laft night had found means to lift the glafs cover
off one of our beft compaffes, ftole away the card and iieedle, and
fitted the cover on as before. We fpoke to the chief and feveral
others about it, but found all our endeavours to recover it by mild
means ineffedtual ; and, rather than ufe any other, the affair was dropped.
However, they feemed to be confcious of having done fomething
amifs by their not coming to the fliip till long after breakfaft, when
our decks were again crowded with both fexes in the fame naked
ftate as on the preceding day.
In the afternoon Mr. Crook landed with his bed and a few clothes;
I accompanied him, to fee how he was received. Mr. Harris declined
going, wilhing to flay on board and pack up their things in fmall
parcels, for the convenience of carrying them up the valley. The
chief's brother departed from the fhip with us, and Tenae himfelf
received us at the beach, and treated us with refpedl and kindnefs,
as on the day before. We proceeded up the valley, followed by a
,j4 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
vaft coiicourfe of people, fome of whom carried the baggage, and
depofited it in the houfe afligned for the brethren ; but a fliort time
after it was removed, and ourfelves condudled to another houfe of
larger dimenfions, about a hundred yards diflant from the firft.
This houfe flood on a fquare platform raifed with flones, having a
wall about fix feet high on the loweft fide (for they are all built on
a declivity) ; in the infifie. was a kind of efcutcheon in memory ot
Honoo, the chief's father j it was very curioufly wrought with fmall
reeds, laid upright, oblique, and horizontal, and about eight feet in
height, forming a fide of a pyramid. There was a drum at each
end, made like thofe the Otaheiteans ufe, but much longer. Nearly
adjoining'-, and upon the fame platform, was another houfe, built on
a fmall eminence, leaving a fpace in front, where were placed two
rude figures of men carved in wood, nearly the fize of life ; behind
thefe, againft the fide of the houfe, were three other efcutcheons,
wrought 'in the fame manner as the one above mentioned : that in
the middle, which was the higheft, had the figure of a bird upon the
top, and the reeds which compofed the whole being ftained of va-
rious colours, produced a beautiful and folemn effed:. The houfe
had no door or opening of any kind j but as my curiofity was
a good deal excited, I opened a hole in the fide of it, to fee what it
contained, and beheld a coffin fixed upon two ftakes about a yard
from the ground. Juft at this time Tenae came up, and feeing ho
was not angry, I again opened the hole and pointed to the coffin :
he inftantly cried H5noo ! and repeated it feveral times, by which I
knew it was his father, and thought him pleafed to fee me notice
the honours he had paid to his memory. The coffin was cylindri-
cal, and bound about with various coloured plaiting made of the
fibres of the cocoa-nut. This fepulchre. Crook's houfe, the trees,
and every thing within the platform, was taboo or facred, and muft
not be approached by women.
I left Otaheitean Tom to bear Crook company the firft night, and
then returned on board. In walking down the valley, I obferved
June] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 13^
that it was well ftocked with bread-fruit trees, but none of them
were ripe ; cocoa-nuts were not fo plentiful : there were plantains,
the ahee-nut, and fome other fruits. Thefc are chiefly enclofed by
fquare fences of floncs about fix feet high, within which the owner's
houfe fl:ands ; but fome of the orchards are fo over-run with weeds,
that they mark more the divifion of property than induflry or labour.
When the boat came for me, they brought as many of the natives
as fhe could contain, they availing themfelves of that opportunity
to fave the trouble of fwimming. The chief's brother was with me,
and wifhed much to go on board; but I refufed to take him, as it was
near dark : this hurt him fo much, that he flied tears as he walked
away.
Sth. The weather ftill pleafant, but, as before, heavy gufts of
wind and rain from the mountains.
The natives crowded on board to-day, infomuch that with difficulty
we carried on our work at the rigging : the females were more nu-
merous, and all in the fame naked ftate as before, which induced
our people to beftow upon each a piece of Otaheitean cloth. It is
proper to obferve, that thefe women drefs decently on fliore ; but
when they have to fwim, as their cloth will not ftand the water,
they leave it behind, and cover their nakednefs with a few leaves-
only.
In the forenoon the captain received a letter from Crook, wherein'
he exprefles his perfed: fatisfadiion with his new lodgings. As night
drew on, he fays, he was left to his repofe ; and after commending
himfelf to the care of the Almighty, he went to reft, laying his
clothes upon the ground near his hammock ; but to his furprife, when
he awoke in the morning, there were none of them to be feen, and
he began to think he fhould have a bad report to give after the firft
night's trial : but before he had time to launch out into unjuft fur-
mifes, the chief came with every article carefully wrapt up in a
bundle. Soon after the letter, Tenae, Crook, and the chief's brother,
came on board ; they were {hewn into the cabin, and every endeavour
,3$ FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
made to treat them kindly. The captain made Tenae a prefent of
an ornamented crown, which delighted him greatly ; he alfo gave
him a piece of cloth, a hammer, and fome gimlets ; but what moft
took his fancy was a large conch-fhell; for thefe they barter eagerly,
pio-s or any other thing ; one of them gave our cook a broad axe for a
conch : but it may with truth be laid, that they are in fuch a ftate of
nature and ignorance, or rather ftupidity, that notwithftanding many
iron tools, &c. have been left among them, they have never yet
thou'^ht of employing their powers to learn their ufe : . therefore they
fet but little value upon what we have, except they can fleal it, which
always enhances the worth of the article. Nails and tools they
think nothing of; cats and goats they fought after with fome foli-
citude, and got fome of the former ; but of the latter we had only
females on board. The conch-fliells they ufe when they go a-vifiting
from one valley to another, and as they gain the fummit of the hills,
they blow them with aU their might, and take great delight and
pride in liftening to the long reverberating echoes.
Tenae was now more familiar than at his firfl vifit, and furveyed
the cabin with a degree of attention, but not with the penetration
and difcernment of the Friendly iflanders. Happening to touch the
wire of the cabin-bell, he was ftruck with aftonifhment and favage
wonder; he rang the bell again and again, and puzzled himfelf a
quarter of an hour to find whence the found proceeded. Tenae has
a thoughtful caft of countenance, and looks much like the chief
and father of a village, and to fee him thus employed raifed our
pity, to behold a man on whom nature, perhaps, had beftowed talents
capable of exploring her myfleries, thus confounded with a rattle ^
but, alas ! in thefe regions, remote from all the paths of fcience, the
talents and virtues of infulated genius lie hid in darknefs, and, like
the beauties of the rough marble, want the Ikill of the polifher to
bring them -forth.
It was not a little afFedling alfo to fee our own feamen repairing the
^igg'J^gj attended by a group of the moll beautiful females, who were
June.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 137
employed to pafs the ball, or carry the tar- bucket, &cc.; and this they
did with the greateft affiduity, often befmcaring themfclvcs with
the tar in the execution of their oflicc. No fhip's company, without
great reftraints from God's grace, could ever have refiflcd fuch
temptations ; and fome would have probably offended, if they had
not been overawed by the jealoufy of the officers and by the good
condu<5l of their mcflmates.
In the afternoon Mr. Godfell landed a cheft and feveral parcels for
the miffionaries, which were taken fafe up to the houfe. Tom and
the boy Harraway (laid on fhore this night, for the purpofe of ren-
dering Crook what fervice they could; and in the evening our vifitors
left us in good time, as ufual.
On the 9th the pinnace was fent on fhore again with more things.
Crook flill rcfolving to flay, attached himfelf to the place, took to
eating the four mahie, and contented himfelf with the food the
ifland afforded, which is not of a very delicate kind ; for the mahie
being made in fmall quantities here, and cleanlincfs little obferved
in the operation, it is not fo good as at Otaheite : but he fays that
they always ferve him firfl of the bell they have ; and as he hopes
to get pork once or twice a week, and frefli fifh as oft as he pleafes,
he thinks he may live contented without cafting an eye to the luxuries
of Otaheite. Tenae had adopted him as his fon, an a6t they ever
after hold as facred, efleeming him in the fame light as his other
children ; this they explained to Crook, who, from the pains pre-
vioufly taken to learn the language, underflood almoft all they faid.
The chief being -informed that Mr. Harris intended to flay, dcfircd
Crook to invite him on fliore ; but he could not be perfuaded, which
was certainly doing wrong, as he fhould have embraced every op-
portunity of learning the real ftate of the ifland, and thence judge
of the pradicability of fettling upon it, before the day came when
he mufl either go on fhore or leave Crook alone, without being able
to aflign fuch clear reafons as landing in time might enable him to do.
T
,38 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
10th. About two o'clock in the morning the moon was totally
cclipfed; but the roughncfs of the weather prevented our obferving it
\\ith fufficicnt accuracy to be of any ufe. The wind at this time
came in very heavy gulls from the mountains, and juft as the eclipfe
ended our cable broke ; the beft bower was immediately let go, and
brought the fhip up in forty fathoms water at the entrance of the bay.
nth, Sunday. The natives crowded off as ufual j but on being
told that the fliip was taboo for that day, they all fwam back to the
fhore.
1 2th. The chief and his brothers came on board with Otaheiteaa
Tom, who informed us that the boy Harraway had left them and
gone to the other fide of the ifland ; and as he had faid nothing con-
cerning his intention, they thought he meant to remain, for which
Tom blamed him very much : but the captain, to try Tom's own
regard for his country, which he had conftantly praifed to the Ikies
lince we came here, ordered him to put his things into the canoe and
go on fhore alfo, affigning as the rcafon, his being privy to Harra-
way's elopement. The poor fellow declared his innocence, and with
tears in his eyes colleded his trifles and put them into the canoe, and
before he went over the fide Ihook hands with all the crew, then put
off with a heart ready to break with fobbing and crying : when he
was gone a little way, the captain called him back again, but it was
fome time before he became reconciled and cheerful. On the other
hand, feveral of the Marquefans were continually plaguing the cap-
tain to take them to Otaheite.
13th. While we were at dinner one of the natives ftole a pump-
bolt, and was making off with his prize, when Mr. Godfell deteded
him, and with the help of the gunner prevented his efcape. The refl
all jumped overboard, and made for the fliore. The thief we laflied
up by way of punifhment, and fliewing him a loaded muflcet, he
fully expedled to be fhot. A man of fome confequence, who had
come in the fame canoe, brought the chief's fecond brother, with two
June.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 13;
pigs and a plantain-leaf, to intercede for the offender, who was his
father ; thefe we refiifcd to accept. It was affedting to fee the fon
kifs and embrace his father, and take their lafl: farewell : however,
not to prolong the anguifli, we took up and difcharged the miiflvct,
and then liberated the culprit. He could not at firit believe that he
was not fhot j but when fet free, and prefented to his fon, both of
them appeared fo overwhelmed with joy, that they could hardly trufl
their own eyes : dumb gratitude and confternation had deprived them
of the power of fpeech. We added a folemn warning to them in
future againft fuch pradiices, and fent them afliore with the pigs,
w^hich we refufed to accept, that they might fee we had no advan-
tage in our view.
14th. This morning the wind blew with fuch violence that we
parted from our beft bower ; and as the fliip was ftill unrigged we
were under the neceffity of either letting go another anchor, or drifting
to fea ; accordingly a fpare anchor which we had in readinefs was
let go in fifty fathoms water, and one hundred and forty fathom of
cable veered out before the fhip brought up. We were now about
a mile and a half without the entrance of the bay, and the wind con-
tinuing to blow as hard as ever, we became apprehenfive that the fliip
might be drove off the ifland, therefore manned the pinnace, and fet
Mr. Harris on Ihore with all his things. The afternoon we employed
in putting the rigging in fome order, and bending the fails, as the
captain intended to work into the bay the next day if the weather
permitted. The latter part of this day we had very heavy rain : but
notwithftanding the roughnefs of the weather, and the great diftancc
we lay from the head of the bay, feveral of the natives fwam off to the
fhip ; but as we were fo very bufy, they were not admitted on board,
only to reff in the boats alongfide, and then return : fome took no reft
at all, but feeing by the others that the Ihip was tabooed, they fwam
back of their own accord; a great exertion, efpecially to the females,
as the diftance both ways could not be lefs than five miles,
T 2
140 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
15th. Early this morning we hove up the anchor, and worked
clofe in to the head of the bay, having as much wind as our double-
reefed topfails would carry, which makes the working in dangerous,
as the wind is fo variable,' that fometimes when the Ihip was clofe to
the rocks fhe would hardly come about. We anchored at noon in
our former flation, or rather nearer the Ihore, but were drove with-
out it again. All the afternoon we were at work fweeping for our
fmall bower, and juft as it grew dark we fwept the buoy-rope, and
made a nun-buoy faft till the next day. We alfo unbent the fails,
that the job at the rigging might be completed.
On the 1 6th we hoifted the long-boat out and got the anchor on
board, but poftponed our fearch for the other till the rigging was put
in proper order. On Sunday the 1 8th we again tabooed the fliip :
indeed this was the only fuccefsful mode we had of keeping the
natives away. On Monday we hauled the feine at the head of the
bay, and caught about fix dozen fmall fifh.
20th. Mr. Harris and Crook came on board, and held a meeting
with the captain refpedling their ftay. Mr. Harris complained
of the poverty of the place, faid he could not eat the mahie, &c.
Crook declared his determination to ftay, even though Mr. Harris
fhould leave him. The refult was, that they both went on fhore to
make further trial before our departure. Several of the natives on
board as ufual.
On tke 22d a native ftole the cook's axe, and fetting off with his
canoe, was near the fliore before it was known ; when he faw the
pinnace chafing him, he paddled to the rocks, hauled his canoe up,
ran into the buflies, and fo got clear off. They had now become fo
adive in ftealing, that the failors had fcarce a knife left among them.
To remedy this, as foon as they came in the morning, each man
chofe a young lad as his ftovekeeper, who followed his mafter clofely
all the day, with his knife, marling-fpike, &c. hung to his neck j
and this faved them, for they always proved very faithful.
June.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 141
23d. The boats were fent to fweep for the befl bower anchor,
and caught hold of it ; but trying to heave it up, the rope broke ; and
night approaching, it was left till next day. This evening we obferved
the bay to be unufually agitated, for which we could afllgn no caufc,
as the wind was eaftcrly, with moderate weather.
On the 24th, the fiflicrman, whom we hauled in at the quarter-
gallery at our firfl: coming, fwam off at break of day, and informed
us that Mr. Harris had been on the beach all the night with his chcft,
and had been robbed of moft of his things. This affair at firft gained
little credit ; for we could not fuppofe him {o imprudent as to bring
his property down without fending notice, that a boat might be ready
to receive them. But, on difpatching the jolly-boat to know the
truth, we found it to be really the cafe. He had come down in the
dufk of the evening ; and as none from the fhip were on fhore, the
boats being employed at the anchor, and the fhip lying too far from
the beach for him to hail, he fpent an uncomfortable night, fitting
upon his chefl : about four in the morning the natives, in order
to fteal his clothes, drove him off the chefl j and, for fear they fliould
hurt his perfon, he fled to the adjacent hills. Mr. Falconer, who
went to bring him off, found him in a mofl pitiable plight, and like
one out of his fenfes. The furf was fo high that they could not land,
and were therefore obliged to haul the cheft and its owner off by
means of a rope. The reafons he gave for leaving his partner fo ab-
ruptly, befidcs thofe already mentioned, were fuch as he might
naturally have exped:ed : Tenae, it feems, wanted to treat them with
an excurfion to another valley, to which Crook readily agreed, but
Mr. Harris would not confent. The chief feeing this, and defirous
of obliging him, not confidering any favour too great, left him
'his wife, to be treated as if fhe were his own, till the chief
came back again. Mr. Harris told him that he did not want the
woman ; however, fhe looked up to him as her hufband, and finding
herfelf treated with total negledl, became doubtful of his fexj and
acquainted fome of the other females with her fufpicion, who accord-
,p FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
ingly came in the night, when he flept, and fatisfied themfelves
concerning that point, but not in fuch a peaceable way but that they
awoke him. Difcovering fo many Grangers, he was greatly terrified ;
and, perceiving what they had been doing, was determined to leave
a place where the people were fo abandoned and given up to wicked-
nefs : a caufe which fliould have excited a contrary rcfolution.
To-day we put a new tow-line in the boat, and fwept the beft bower
anchor with it ; hove it up with the long-boat, and got it once more
fafe to the bows ; the rigging was alfo completed, and we began to
think of taking our departure. This was intimated to Crook, who
ftill remained ftedfaft in his refolution to ftay in the ifland, defiring
only fuch implements of hufbandry, and other things, as might faci-
litate and extend his ufefulnefs among the people ; obferving, that his
happinefs would have been greatly increafed had his devoted fituation
been with a friendly and agreeable affiftant, whofe converfation and
fympathy might have comforted him in the time of trouble : but fince
the Lord had ordered things otherwife, he thought that it better fuited
with his character and profefTion, to refign himfelf to God's fatherly
care, and reft in his promifes, than to quit a flation where a door of
ufefulnefs was fo evidently opened : and fliould his bleffed Saviour
make him the honoured inftrument of preparing the way for fome of
his more able fervants, he Ihould at lafl have the happinefs to refle(5l
that his life was not fpent in vain.
Crook is a young man of twenty-two, remarkably ferious and
fteady, always employed in the improvement of his mind, and applied
with great diligence to the attainment of the language. He alfo pof-
feffes a very good genius, and I have no doubt will contrive many
things to benefit the poor creatures he lives with ; and as the valley
is capable of great improvement, I fliould not be furprifed to hear of
this and the iflands adjacent becoming very plentiful places by his
means. He has various kinds of garden-feeds, implements, medi-?
cines, &c. ; an Encyclopedia, and other ufeful books.
26th. To-day the captain went on fliore for the firll time, anii
June.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 143
took with him Mr, Falconer. Their intention was, to afcend to the
fumniit of the hills, and view the neighbouring ifles. They landed,
and were followed by a crowd of the natives, who were exceedingly
glad to behold the captain in their village. After taking a little re-
frefhment with Tenae at his hoiife, the chief's fecond brother accom-
panied them up the mountains, which are fo fteep, that in many
places they were obliged to haul themfelves up by the branches of
trees that grow upon them. The captain did not reach the top,
but Mr. Falconer did : whence he had a view of Trevenen's ifland
to the \ve{\, Riou's and Dominica to the north, to the eaft St. Pedro,
and Magdalena to the fouth. The ridge at the fummit of the moun-
tain is quite narrow, and every where covered with trees. The chief
prefTed him much to fire his mufket againft Trevenen's ifland, and
was highly pleafed with his compliance. On their return, Tenae
entertained them with a roafled hog, but not being very fat, fome of
the by-flanders obferved that it was not good ; which afFc6ted the
chief fo much, that he walked afide in a pet, and was not reconciled
till the captain faid it was good ; and refufed to eat, except the captain
came and fat befide him, which he accordingly did. In the evening
they returned on board, followed by Crook and the chief, who came
to take leave j accordingly, after feveral articles were put in the canoe;
we bad him an aflfed;ionate farewell, and parted. His manly beha-
viour at this feafon did him great credit ; the tears gliflened in his eyes,
but none fell ; nor did he betray the leaft fign of fear to enter upon
his work alone.
27th. At four in the morning we weighed, and flood out of the
bay with a light air eafterly. At feven, hove to for a canoe which
was paddling hard after us ; in her was the chief's brother and our
old fifherman, who had wept heartily the evening before on parting
with us, and partly becaufe the captain would not take him to
Otaheite : at prefent they brought a note from Crook, with a letter
for his fifler, and requefting fome foap which had been forgot.
Accordingly, the quantity before packed up for him was put in the
,44 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
canoe, and a prcfent of an axe given to each of the meflengers, who
preferring- to go to Otahcitc, left us very rekid:antly. We now fliaped
our courfc for Trcvcncn's and Sir Henry Martin's iflands, intending to
obfcrve tliefr relative fltuation to Santa Chriftina, as we had rcafon
to fuppofe them erroneoufly marked in the iketch we had on board.
Concerning the cuftoms and manners of the people about Refo-
lution bay, we learnt but little befides what is already related in our
daily tranfadlions ; for, except myfelf for a few hours on the firft
two days after our arrival, and the captain and the third mate on the
laft day of our flay, no perfon was on fliore from the fhip. But,
finding this was likely to be the cafe, I wrote a number of queries
to Crook, whofe time being likewife much taken up with his own
affairs, he had not leifure to make the necefTary inquiries to anfwer
them all. But, from his knowledge of the language, I think that
what he fays of a few may be depended upon, and they are as fol-
low :
" Their religious ceremonies refemble thofe of the Society Iflands.
" They have a moral in each diflrid:, where the dead are buried be-
" neath a pavement of large flones, but with fuch exceptions as in the
" cafe of the chief Honoo. They have a multitude of deities. Thofe
" mofl frequently mentioned are Opooamanne, Okeeo, Oenamoe,
'• Opee-peetye, Onooko, Oetanow, Fatee-aitapoo, Onoetyej but none
" who feem fuperior to the reft, though the extent of my inform-
" ation is fmall on this head. They only offer hogs in facrifices,
*' and never men.
•* The chief Tenae prefides over four diftrids, Ohitahoo, Taheway,
*' and Innamei, all opening into Refolution bay, and Onopoho, the
" adjoining valley to the fouthward. He has four brothers : Aeow-
" taytay, Natooafeedoo, Oheephee, and Moeneenee ; but none of
" them feem inverted with any authority; and Tenae himfelf with
•' lefs than the Otaheitean chiefs.
" There is no regular government, eftablifhed law, or punifhments j
" but cuftom is the general rule.
June.] TO THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS. 145
" As to their food and manners, like mofl: uncivilized nations, they
have no regular meals, but eat when they are hungry, and here
not in a great quantity at a time, this being their fcarcc feafon.
When they have a hog, they eat of it five or fix times a-day ; and when
without animal food, they ufe the roafted bread-fruit, fifh, mahie,
pudding made of it and other vegetables, ahee-nuts, and a pafic
made of a root refembling the yam ; and this they do often through
the day. The women are not allowed to eat hog, and are proba-
bly under other prohibitions as at Otaheite, and fcem much more
fervile to the men, and harfhly treated. They are employed in
making cloth and matting, but not in cookery, except for them-
felves. I have never obferved any of the men, from the chief to
the toutou, at work, except a few old perfons making cords and
nets. The reft idle about, and bafk in the fun, telling their ftories,
and beguiling the time.
•' The chief is faid to have three wives ; the youngeft is with him
here, the others in different parts of the ifland. He has feveral
children, fome of which live with him here, and the others with
their mothers. Obferving a pregnant woman, I afl<:ed her how
many children fhe had ; fhe replied. Three. I wifhed to know if
they were by the fame man; (lie faid, Yes. I alked further, if he
had any other wife ; flie faid, No. Whence I am led to fuppofe,
that, though Tenae has more wives than one, this is not ufual,
and may be the privilege of the chief. They feem to be very
fond of their- children ; and when I went up the valley I fiw the
men often dandling them upon their knees, exacfUy as I have
obferved an old grandfather with us in a country village.
" Their particular cuftoms I am not yet able to dcfcribe,- but I
learn, the fon muft not touch the clothes of the father, and muft
walk before him on the road ; and the father muft not touch any
thing, nor eat vidiuals which have pafled over the head of the fon.
Before the age of puberty, the operation of flitting the prepuce is
performed ; and all the men are tattoued, even to the very lips and
u
,46 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797,
'• cyclidi:. Their dilcaks are few; I have indeed hardly obfervcd
" the appearance of any ; and they are as yet happily free from that
" fatal malady which has made fuch ravages in the Society Iflands."
Refpeding the perfons, drefs, canoes, &c. of thefe people, we
found them exadly as defcribed in Cook's Second Voyage, where he
fays, that " for fymmetry of fliape and regular features^ they perhaps
" furpafs all other nations. Not a finglc deformed or ill-proportioned
" perfon was feen on the ifland ; all were flrong, tall, well-limbed,
" and remarkably adtivc. The men are from five feet ten inches high
" to fix feet ; their teeth are not fo good, nor are their eyes fo full,
" as thofe of many other nations : their hair is of many colours,
" but none red; fome have it long, but the moft general cuftom is
" to wear it fliort, except a bunch on each fide of the crown, which
" they tie in a knot. Their countenances are pleafing, open, and
" difplay much vivacity. They are of a tawny complexion, which
" is rendered almoft black by the pundtures of the whole body.
*• They were entirely naked, except a fmall piece of cloth round their
" waifl and loins. Thefe pund:ures were difpofed with the utmoft
" regularity, fo that the marks on each leg, arm, and cheek, were
" in general fimilar."
The women are rather of low ftature, though well-proportioned,
and their general colour inclining to brown. We obferved that fome
-who, on our firfl: arrival, were almoft as fair as Europeans, by coming
off to the fhip and expofing themfelves to the fun, became afterwards
quite dark-coloured. But a few of thefe were pundured or tattoued.
The chief's fifter had fome parallel lines on her arms, others flight
pundlures on the infide of their lips, and even upon their eyelids » .
They wear a long narrow piece of cloth wrapped two or three times
round their waift, and the ends tucked up betweea their thighs : above
this is a broad piece of cloth, nearly as large as a fheet, tied at the
upper corners : they lay the knot over one fhoulder, and the garment
hanging loofe reaches halfway down the leg.
Their canoes are made of wood and the bark of a foft tree, which
June.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 147
" grows near the fea, and is very proper for the piirpofe; tlicir
*' length is from fixtecn to twenty feet, and about fixtecn inclus
*' broad. The head and flern are formed Out of two fohd pieces ot
" wood; the former is curved, and the latter ends in a point, which
" projedis horizontally, and is decorated with a rude carved figure,
" having a fiiint refemblance to a human face. Some of the canoes
'* have a latteen fail, but they arc generally rowed with paddles."
However, except the one Tenae had hauled up on the beach, and two
or three more, the reft were fo indifferent as hardly to fwim when
there was a breeze of wind.
The only tame fowls are cocks and hens, and their quadrupeds
only hogs ; but the woods are inhabited by fmall birds, whofe plu-
mage is exceedingly beautiful, and their notes fweetly varied. We
left cats and flie-goats,' and were forry we had no he-goat to give
them, as they were fo fond of thefe animals, that the chief took them
and Crook wherever he went.
aSth. Before daybreak we faw feveral lights upon Trevenen's
ifland ; and as we run along the eaft fide in the morning we obferved
two or three fandy bays, whence fertile valleys run towards the cen-
tral hills, which lafl are broken and rugged, rifing in feveral places
into lofty cones, that give the ifland a very curious appearance. From
one of the bays there came off a canoe with four men, who after a
length of time came alongfide, and got a few articles from us, for
which they had nothing to give in return, but, feeming afraid ot us,
put off immediately. Behind the north-eaft point a large double
canoe lay, with about twenty men in her: they kept clofe to the rocks;
we hove the fliip to for them, but they alfo feemed afraid, and kept
aloof. At this time we faw a fingle canoe put off from a fine bay on
the north- weft fide ; this canoe was built exactly like thofe at Santa
Chriftina, and had the fame kind of latteen fail : they came clofc
to the fhip and talked boldly, and when they faw Tanno Manoo
upon the deck, one of them ftood up and made fome very laf-
civious geftures. We invited them alongfide ; where they at laft
u z
i4S FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
came, but had loil their courage, for they trembled with fear all the
while they flaid. From them we got the native names of the iflands,
as marked in the chart. They wilhed us to anchor in the bay, but
this we had no defire to do ; fo we made them prefents and took our
leave. They were flout well-made men, differing nothing from thofe
about Refblution bay, except in being rather lefs tattoued ; their
canoes, though built after the fame fafhion, are neater and flronger;
their houfes alfo, as feen from the fhip, appeared to be fuperior. The
bay on the north-weft part of the ifland feems eligible for fhipping,
and may be diftinguifhed by a fmall but high iflet lying off it, and
a beautiful and regular row of cocoa-nut trees behind a fine white
fandy beach.
From the north end of Trevenen's ifland we run N. by E. twent}'-
four miles, to within a mile of the fouth-eaft point of Sir Henry
Martin's ifland, which point is high and craggy : clofe to the weft-
ward of it is Comptroller's bay, large, and fecure from the reigning
winds. At the entrance, and near to Craggy point, there lies a fmall rock
above water, in appearance like a boat. At the head of the bay we faw
fome houfes in a cove, a vaft number of inhabitants affembled upon the
beach, and feveral canoes hauled up near them. All the valleys about
this bay appeared fertile, many of the hills were covered with trees,
and the interior parts feemed more habitable than at any other of
the Marquefas. Weftward of Comptroller's bay lies Port Anna
Maria, where the Daedalus lay ; and befides thefe, I think it highly
probable that there are other good anchoring-places about this ifland.
Captain New defcribes the inhabitants of thefe iflands as a handlbme
race of people, and extremely hofpitable, which is certainly greatly
in favour of thofe who would fettle with miffionary views, efpecially
when the fuperior natural advantages of the ifland are taken into the
account. It being five o'clock in the afternoon when we got off
^"■^ggy point, we bore up, and, running down the fouth fide, took
our departure for Otaheite, anxious to know in what circumftances
we might find the brethren whom we had fettled there..
July.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 149
CHAPTER XII.
Return from the Marquefas to Otaheite, with the TranfaElions which
had fajfed during our Abfence.
29t!i. Having bent our courfe for the Society Iflands, we pro-
ceeded on our voyage with a favourable gale.
July 3d. We fell in with Tiookea, a lagoon ifland, many of which
lie fcattered about this part of the ocean, and render the navigation
in dark weather dangerous. ' We faw fmoke afcending in various
parts, one failing canoe in the lagoon, and two men following us
along Ihore. They appeared dark-coloured, had a piece of cloth tied
round their middle, and each carried a fpear in his hand. Cook
vifited this place on his fecond voyage. A lieutenant and the two
Mr. Forfters landed : the iflanders received them by touching nofes,
a common mode of falutation all over the South Sea. They found
here various plants, particularly a vegetable which the natives bruife
and mix with Ihell-fifh : this preparation they throw into the fea.
where they perceive a fhoal of fifli, and intoxicating them, they are
caught on the furface of the water, without any other trouble than
that of taking them out : the name, they fay, which this plant bears
among the natives is enow j but here the Mr. Forfters have evidently
miftaken the quality of the plant for its name : enow, in the lan-
guage of the Society Iflands, means bad, and is doubtlefs in this
inftance ufed by the natives to intimate that the plant was noxious or
poifonous. But this miftake only (hews how eafy it is to fall into
others of a fimilar nature.
By obfervation at noon we made the centre of Tiookea in latitude
14° 30' S. and its longitude, by the chronometer, reduced from the
150 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797,
MarqucHis and afterwards back from Otaheite, to be 146° 22' W.
nhich is I' 12' W. of what Mr. Wales makes it. But had we not
made Otaheite very exadl by our chronometer, we fliould rather have
been filcnt than fuppofed an error in fo good an authority as Mr.
Wales. However, to be certain of this point is of confequence, as
the longitude of feveral others of the fmall iflands is deduced from
it, and this is the ifland a perfon would choofe to make firft in coming
from the Marquefas.
Latitude obferved at noon 14° 29'; the fouth-weft end of Tiookea
bearing E, N. E. three miles ; and the extremes of an ifland to lee-
ward, called Oura, from W. 3° N. to W. 27" S.
For the other iflands we faw on our pafTage, fee the chart.
6th. At feven in the morning we faw the high land of Otaheite;
and at noon, being clofe in, we ran between the Dolphin bank and
Point Venus reef, and came to anchor in Matavai bay in thirteen
fathoms water, and immediately moored fliip. The natives crowded
off, all exceedingly glad to fee us ; the brethren followed in a flat-
bottomed boat, which they had been defired to build for the purpofe
of pafling the fliallow entrance of the river with the goods. The
report they gave was pleafing to us all. They had, in general, en-
joyed good health. The natives had confliantly obferved the fame re-
Ipedful behaviour towards them as at firft, and had never failed a day
to lupply them abundantly with all kinds of provifions. Refpeding
the purpofes of the miffion, it was a point of which they could not
as yet fay any thing more than that appearances were encouraging.
From the little experience they had gained of the people, they
fuppofed them teachable ; and though rooted in the traditions and
prejudices of their ancefliors, they hoped that a knowledge of the
language, and perfeverance in their duty, would have a great effed:
upon the rifing generation. Their example had already reflirained
the natural levity of the natives, and overawed them ; fo that they
feldom attempt to ad a heeva within their hearing ; and when they
*^me near on the fabbath, they always behave with decency, Thdr
March.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 151
drcfs and manners alfo exhibited great improvement on the fide of
modefty.
However, in their own department, there had been fome difference
of opinion concerning their interior regulations. Confidcring their
fmall number, their committee and the office of prefident had been
difTolved ; the office of ftore-keeper, &c. had alfo been changed ;
and all public meafures were debated, difapproved, or adopted, by
the body ; a majority fettling the matter. But their own journals
will give the moil accurate ftatement of their proceedings during our
ab fence.
March 26th. The fliip quitted the bay of Matavai this day,
and was foon out of fight. Our brethren who laft departed from the
fhip in a canoe had an unpleafant return, by reafon of the wind,
and were obliged to land at a diflance, but got to their com-
panions in the evening, and received their canoe and its contents fafe
the next day.
27th. Brother Puckey informed the brethren refpediing Eimeo,
and the velTel he had gone thither to examine. He advifed, that
as Manne Manne and his people had been exceedingly friendly, they
fhould launch the veffel, and bring her to Matavai bay to be com-
pleted. Puckey and Lock were accordingly appointed to go to Eimeo
for this purpofc. A confultation was held refped:ing Mickle-
wright ; though all condemned his condud:, the majority prevailed,
that, if he profelTed repentance, he fliould be received. Some of
the brethren thought he ought to be wholly fcparated from them as
a hypocrite.
.28th. A confiderable prefcnt came from Pomarre and Iddcah of all
forts of provifions, affuring. us, when thcfe were expended, they
would fend a conflant fupply.
152 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [,797.
29th. We are daily vifited by the king, queen, Iddeah, and many
of the natives. Some of the Otahciteans, whom we have with us
as helpers, fpeak many Englifh words, and are eager to be taught the
art of reading ; they have already learnt mofl: of the charadlers of the
alphabet, though our neceflary avocations have prevented us from
paying much attention to this point, or from employing ourfelves in
the acquifition of their language. We have provifion in great abun-
dance: a gracious Providence evidently favours ourdefign.
3 1 ft. Vifited by the king and queen ; complained to them of the
deflrucflion occafioned by the rats. They fent in immediately four
cats.
April ift. Vifited by the king and queen, and Mawroa the hufband
of Pomarre's lifter, a man of good fenfe and great authority : he
brought a cheft to be repaired, and requefted Wm. Puckey to be his
tayo : he hefitated at firft, but, on the reprefentation of the Swede
how much he could fei-ye us, he confented.
2d. Though multitudes of natives, with the king and queen,
attended our worfliip, for want of our interpreter we were unable
to addrefs them ; but they looked on filent whilft we preached and
adminiftered the Lord's fupper.
3d. Took three Otaheiteans to affift in our cookery and attend our
hogs. The king and queen brought a large prefent of cocoa-nuts to
brother Cover and his wife, defiring to become their adopted chil-
dren, and promifing to regard them as their father and mothei^/
Pomarre and Iddeah brought a larger in the evening, and begged the^'i
to receive the king and queen as their own progeny. The women
croffed the river to vifit the garden and the country around ; the king
followed them, and paid them every mark of attention, direding them
to the beft roads, and ordering his attendants to provide cocoa-nuts
for their refrcfhment. It is incredible to fee the quantity of provifions
poured in upon us ; we have not lefs than a waggon-load of fruits,
btfides the multitudes of hogs and poultry. Surely the Lord hath
done this.
April.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. ,53
4th. At a quarter part eight o'clock we aflemblcd for our monthly
prayer meeting ; were revived with the confideration of the thoufands
of God's people who were remembering us, and at the fame throne
of grace praying for our fuccefs among the heathen.
5th. Our daily royal vifitors have taken up their abode of late at
Matavai, on purpofe to be near us, Pomarre brought a chair to be
repaired, which the captain had given him, with a muflvet and fowling-
piece : thefe we excufed ourfelves from repairing, except the chair,
till the fmith had fet up his forge; but he left them with us. Their
liuts very much refemble a travelling camp of gypfies.
6th. Early this morning Otoo fent ten men to prepare wood for
ere6ting the blackfmith's flaop. Our brethren from Eimeo returned,
and made us the pleafing report, that they had been very kindly
received by the natives, who never attempted to fleal any of our
tools, and were ready to give us every affiftance. Brother J. Puckey,
on the Lord's day, had addreffed them by Andrew ; they heard
attentively, and faid it was very good ; but it could be of no ufe to
them to change their religion, as the brethren would fo foon leave
them and carry away the book. We alTured them we would
return and teach them again very foon. The natives replied, if any
of the chiefs embraced our religion they fliould follow.
The veflel they had planked up, fo that (he would be fit to come
over in a few days.
Micklewright's conduit was very diftrefling to us j none of our
remonflrances could keep him from the natives.
8th. One of the arreoies, the tayo of brother Henry, came to us
with his wife big with child : they were taking their leave of us, in
order, during their abfence, to deftroy the infant which fliould be born,
according to the ordinance of that diabolical fociety. We thought
this a proper opportunity to remonftrate with them againfl this horrid
cuftom. The mother felt with tenderncfs, and appeared willing to
fpare the infant ; but the brutal chief continued obflinately bent on
his purpofe, though he acknowledged it a bloody adt, pleading the
X
134 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797,
cftablifhcd cuftom, his lofs of all privileges, and the diflblution of
the focicty, if this Ihould become general. We offered to build them
a houfe for the pregnant women, and take every child which fliould
be born into our immediate care. We threatened him, that fuch
an unnatural adl would exclude him from our friendfhip for ever, and
more, that the Eatooa, our God, would certainly punifli him. He
faid, if he faw the arreoies deftroyed by the Eatooa for it, he would
dcfift; and aflced if their forefathers were fuffcring for thefe pradlices.
Our brethren f.iiled not to open to him the wrath of God againft all
iingodlinefs and unrighteoufnefs of men. On this he walked off
dejedted, but not apparently determined to defiil from the evil or
danger of his ways. A few days afterwards he came, and promifed,
if the child were born alive, he would bring it to us ; and on auother
viiit afterwards with his wife, renewed his promife, on forfeiture of
our favour.
Manne Manne returned from Oparre with abundance of clothes
and provifion for all the brethren. We took the opportunity to in-
form Pomarre, that next day we fhould fpeak to them the parow no
t'Eat5oa, the word of God ; and invited tbxm to come, which they
promifed.
9th. Brother Lewis preached from Thou pah not kill, to the king,
queen, Manne Manne, and a number of the natives, who heard
with ferious attention, and faid, " My ty te parow no Pretane, ima
" tipperahai mydide, ima pohhe roa te taata : Good is the word
•' of Britain, not to kill children, not to facrifice men." The high-
prieft whifpering fomething, we afked him what he faid ; he an-
fwered, he told the people to leave off their wicked ways. .
Pomarre and Iddeah came at noon, and going into the married
brethren's apartment, found them converfing with the arreoies on the
evil of deflroying infants. Iddeah was particularly addreffed on the
fubjeft, as fhe too was pregnant by a toutou who cohabited with her,
and was alfo of the arreoie fociety. Pomarre and Iddeah had for
feme time ceafed to cohabit j he had taken another wife, and Ihe one
April.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 155
of her fervants ; but they lived in the fame ftatc of frlcndfliip, anJ
with no lofs of dignity. The brethren endeavoured to convince her
of the drcadfuhicfs of murder, in a mother cfpccially. They pro-
mifed to receive the child immediately, and it fliould be no trouble to
her; but flie was fullen, and made no reply. They then addrcfTed
Pomarre, and entreated his interference in fupprefTing fuch adls of
mhumanity ; and to give orders that no more human facrifices fhould
be offered. He replied, he would ; faid, that Captain Cook told
him it fliould not be done j but did not flay long enough to inftrud:
them. One of the brethren then faid, that we were come for that
exprefs purpofe, and hoped he would hearken to our counfel ; point-
ing out all the danger arid difadvantage to themfclvcs ; and warning
them, that if they defpifcd our inftrudlions, and continued in their
wicked practices, we (hould leave them and go to another ifland,
where we could hope for more attention. Pomarre was evidently
affed:cd by what was faid, and efpecially could not bear the thought
of our leaving him ; and promifed he would ufe all his authority to
put an end to thefe prad:ices. He indeed appears of a teachable dif-
pofition and open to conviction. Manne Manne came in during this
converfation ; and we told him freely, that if he offered any more
human facrifices he would utterly forfeit our friendfliip, and muft
confider us as his enemies. He replied, he certainly would not.
On this we informed him, that our Lord knew his heart, whether
he was fincere in his promifes»
We renewed our attempts with Iddeah, invited her to continue
with us, and fuffer our women to take care of her child ; that her
example would have the happieft effects upon the nation; and know-
ing her eagernefs for European cloth, we promifed her three fliirts,
and any other articles, when the fliip arrived ; yea more, that we
would report her condudt to Queen Charlotte and the Britifli earec
ladies, to whom nothing would more endear her ; and that the next
fliip would affuredly bring her very valuable prefents. She faid the
child was bafc born; had it bccnPomarre's, it would have lived; but
X z
,36 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
thai now they were arreoies — and marched off with her paramour,
who fat by and heard with utter indifference.
In the afternoon we again addrcifed tlie natives through the inter-
preter. VV^e afked them if they underftood what we faid ; they an-
fwered, Yes, and that it was very good. Among our auditors was
Mawroa, the hufband of Pomarre's fifter, widow of Motuaro, the
late chief of Eimco. In converfation with us, he faid he was re-
folved to throw away the gods that could neither hear, nor fee, nor
fpeak, and worfliip the Englifli God. He put feveral queftions to
us, particularly, whether it was not lawful for a man to have one
wife; we told him, affuredly; it was an ordinance of our God :
to which he replied, " My ty, my ty, very good."
1 0th. A wet day. In the intervals of the (howers went in queff
of a iituation for eredling new habitations, the prefent not having the
land fo good around them, and being a very fandy foil. We did not
fix, but the majority feemed defirous to build on the fpot which the
mutineers had chofen, as having the advantages of foil, as well as
the eafterly breezes from the mountain ; feveral waterfalls near formed
a meandering ftream through the valley ; the foot of the mountains
abounded in bread-fruit and cocoa-nut, and the land appeared fuited
for cultivation, being cleared of trees which had been burned down
by the mutineers ; with an opening to the weft, which let in a beau-
tiful view of Matavai bay, and a diftant profpecfl of Eimeo.
1 2th. This day Iddeah appeared again in public, and Manne
Manne communicated to us the affli(flive intelligence that fhe had
murdered her new-born babe. It was therefore refolved by the
brethren, that no more prefents fhould be received from Iddeah ; and
that our marked difapprobation of her condud: ftiould be fhewn
whenever fhe came to our houfe. Commenced a weekly ledture;
brother Henry fpoke from " The Son of Man is come to feek and
" fave that which was loft :" the king and many Otaheiteans were
prefent.
13th. Pomarre and Iddeah came with a vaft prefent of hogs and
Ai'RiL.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 157
vegetables, which were feparated into four parcels. We afked Pomarrc
from whom they came ; we thankfully accepted his, but refufed to
touch thofe which Iddcah offered, and afligned our reafons, which
Andrew communicated. She was highly offended ; faid flie had a
right to do with her children as Ihe pleafed, and fhould obfcrve the
cufloms of the country without minding our difpleafure j and walked
off with her toutou, leaving the prefent behind : a new chefl which
had been made for her, being her own materials, was given her,
and fhe carried it off w ith her. Yet her unnatural crime did not
utterly pafs unpuniflied ; a dreadful milk abfcefs brought her under
the furgeon's knife, and repeated fharp rebukes ; yet her heart ap-
peared ftill hardened. She is a bold daring fpirit, and much more
warlike than her hufband Pomarre. As we would not receive Iddeah's
prefent, we wifhed Manne Manne to diflribute it to the natives, in-
ftead of which he carried it off to his own houfe.
Yet even this is but one among many unnatural crimes which we
dare not name, committed daily without the idea of fliame or guilt.
In various diflri(fl:s of the ifland there are men who drefs as women ;
work with them at the cloth ; are confined to the fame provifions
and rule of eating and dreffing ; may not eat with the men, or of
their food, but have feparate plantations for their peculiar ufe.
It is remarkable, that with all thefe horrid vices fo predominant,
in our prefence they never fhew an attitude or commit an ad: un-
feemlyj indeed they profefs hardly to know what we are, and fufpedl
we are not Engliflimen, or like any others they have feen who have
ever vifited their ifland.
It may be worth a remark, that Iddeah had not been abfent from
our houfe two days before fhe appeared as if nothing ailed her : with
fo little inconvenience do the mofl painful operations of nature affedt
thofe of that happy climate.
14th. Manne Manne brought us more hogs, and one of our fows
having farrowed, we had now fifty-nine in the fty ; fo that we
may truly fay the good of the land is before us. Brother Jtfferfon
,38 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [179^.
addrtflTcd the natives, with the king and queen ; fome of them looked
ib fledtaftly at the minifler, as if eager to devour every word that
was fpoken. " M}' heart," ll\ys W. Puckey, •' was much engaged
" in fecret prayer for thefe poor fouls."
15th. Wanted plank for the hlackfmith's fliop ; told the king.
He faid, " Harry-mie, come along." I thought he had fome ready ;
I went w^ith him and fix men j he carried me up the valley, and
fearching every houfe took what he liked : many of the people ftoutly
rcfifted, but his men would not leave a plank. I told the king, with
whom we exercife the moft entire familiarity, that he was a thief.
" No," fays he, " it is the cuftom of Otaheite."
The king was carried on men's flioulders, and through fuch dan-
gerous places, that he ran the greatefl: rifk of breaking his bones ;
but he muft not alight, as every place his foot touches becomes facred
and his own ground. At laft we arrived at a territory of his own ;
when alighting, he took a majeftic ftride, and flalking on, " Puckey,"
fays he, " is this as King George walks?" I told him, Yes. Having
gone about three miles I delired to return, though the king would
have gone farther, notwithflanding the rain. " He then gave me a
hog, and made the people from whom he had taken the plank carry
it down to our houfe.
I waited two hours, but the rain not abating, I puHied homewards;
in croffing the river I had like to have been carried away by the
ftream, and cried out j one of our fervants immediately plunged in,
and brought me fafe to land, though drenched to the flun as I had
been the whole day.
1 6th. This day we thrice addreffcd the natives by our inter-
preter, and with their ufual attention j but as foon as they retired,
they fell, like children, to their own light amufements. The Lord
grant the feed fown may take firmer root in their hearts !
17th. Having given in the plan of the flat-bottomed boat which
was to be built againfl the captain's return, it was approved. Po-
marre, on application, ordered fix men to attend me : I had liberty
April.] TO THE SOUTEI-SEA ISLANDS. 159
to cut down whatever I chofe, and had not proceeded far before I found
an excellent pourow tree, fufficient to build a vefTel of any burden ;
it mofl refemblcs afh, but the wood is harder ; it grows crooked,
and is very capital for timbers and knees. The natives with mc dc-
fired me not to do any thing, but only to mark where and how to
cut, and they would do the work.
1 8th. Not able to work through pain in my back, my tayo and
his wife coming, they defircd to chamfer me, which gave me great
relief. The fliop being finiflied, and brother Hodges with Haflell at
work, the natives crowded round him, but vafUy frightened with
the fparks and biffing of the iron in water. Pomarre came, fu-
premely delighted with the bellows and forge, and catching the black-
fmith in his arms, all dirty as he was, joined nofes with him, and
exprefled his high fatisfii6lion. After work they were going to bathe
themfelves in the river, when the young king laid hold of an arm
of each, and went down with them to bathe. His queen, Tetua,
followed, and faid to Haffell, *' Harrc no t'avye. Go into the wa-
*' ter:" but they fignified they wiflied llie would leave them firfi: ;
on this flie retired : as for herfelf, flae often bathes at noon-day at-
tended by twenty men, fcldom ever having any women to wait on
her.
20th. A native ftole a. box for the fake of the nails; wc feizcd
and confined him for three hours, and then liberated him, informing
him, that,,ffiould any be caught in future, they fhould be more fevercly
puniflied. Soon after Pomarre and Manne Manne brought a peace-
offering of a pig and plantain-leaf. The leaf we accepted, but we
faid we could not receive the pig, having forgiven the offence,
2 1 ft.. Two of our brethren went with three natives to procure
more wood : we went up the valley ; it is about feven miles long and
a quarter of a mile broad, with very little defccnt, which makes the
river meander llowly through it. It is covered with trees, except a
few verdant fpots from whence the wood is cleared. The mountains
on both fides are exceedingly high and perpendicular, covered with
,«o FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
flirubs and trees, where parrots, parroquets, and a kind of grey
thrufli which fings delightfully, build their nefts. The natives are
numerous and flourifliing j they fee the fun but a few hours in the
day, his beams being intercepted by the mountains, and a light cool
breeze blows downward continually. They have fine plantations of
yava and cloth trees neatly enclofed ; and they have all the other edibles
in vaft profufion, but are fo indolent, that they hardly are at the
pains to gather them. They eat when they are hungry, and fleep
when they pleafe. There were feveral infedled with that horrible
difeafe Europeans probably have left them, and fome with their limbs
ready to drop off.
Staying at a houfe till the reft returned, having made my feet fore,
the kind inhabitant prefented me his wife ; and though I excufed
myfelf from that favour, he inftantly prepared a hog, which was
ready as foon as my companions came from the mountain ; whilft
our hoft himfelf would wait on his guefts.
At our return brother Henry was preaching to the natives ; and
after fervice Manne Manne obferved, that " we gave them plenty
" of the word of God, but not of many other things."
22d, 23d. Nothing but the ufual fervices : read the articles of
religion we had fubfcribed.
24th. On a meeting of our fociety we agreed to new regulations,
abolifhing the committee of five j and as each had his vote in our
deliberations, a fecretary only was thought neceffary, and a prefident,
to be chofen at each meeting. We drew up rules for every day's work ;
the bell to ring at fix ; to be affembed for prayer in half an hour j to
labour till ten at our various occupations ; to fpend from ten till
three in mental improvement ; from three till night at our ufual
employment ; bell to ring at feven for prayer, and the journal to be
read. We then proceeded to divide our iron for traffic, and caft lots
for the watches .
27th. Purfuing our various employments, and daily attended by
the natives. Five of us went to Eimeo with Manne Manne to finifli
April] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. i6i
his vcffcl. The brethren at Eimeo were mofl hofpitably entertained ;
but Micklewright, the fleward, having warped the Swede, and
dilindincd him to us, lie made a variety of excufcs for not inter-
preting to the people as ufual. Having an addrefs tranHatcd, brother
Cover defired to read it to them, which Maunc Mannc approving,
under the fhade of a fprcading tree they fung, " Salvation, O the
" joyful found," &c. and after prayer read the addrefs ; at tiie clofc
of which Mannc Manne exclaimed, " Very good fellow ! " and on
afking the natives if they imderftood what was read, they replied,
•' Yes, it was very good." They then croffcd the bay, fully an-
fwering Cook's defcription. The face of this ifland is very romantic :
the land around it is like the ruins of a flupendous fortification.
The diflirid; of Watawy is lefs mountainous and better cultivated
than any at Otaheite ; the foil deep and good. We retired to reft on
fome Otaheite cloth laid on the boards of the veiTel. Brothers
Bicknell and Cock worked at the veffel, whilft Cover, with Andrew,
Avith much difficulty was preparing a tranflated addrefs; obliged to
omit many fentences for want of words. Set oft' for Otaheite ; flcpt
at Popo bay in the canoe, very uncomfortably. The wind in-
creafing, we were driven to leeward, and juft made Attahooroo.
Earneft to reach our houfe for the fabbath, we fet oft" on foot, and
left the canoe with the natives.
On the way we vifited the tupapow of Orapiah : he is in a fitting
pofture, clothed in red clotli, imder a fhed; a native attending day
and night, and ofi^ering provilions to the mouth of the dead corpfe,
which not being received, he eats them himfelf. We reached home
after twelve o'clock, very much fatigued, not having put oft' our
clothes fince we left Matavai.
29th, 30th. Our brethren were adlively employed, fliwing plank
for the boat. The natives are vaftly furprifed to fee us cut fo many
boards out of one tree, two being the moft they attempt : they arc
amazed to obferve the facility with which we work all our tools.
Going to the blackfmith's ftiop, I obferved a chief peeping in ; I
Y
,62 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
afked him why he went not withui ; he faid he was (mattow)
frighted, and angry with the fire for fpitting at him. As foon as the
iron hides in the water, or on the anvil, the natives fly.
Three of the brethren accompanied Pomarre in a journey through
the ifland, in order to make obfervations.
May I ft. The king came with a mufket and four piftols to be
repaired and cleaned. On confultation we demurred to the requeft ;
but as he had fent a hog and other, things to the fmith, we ordered
one of the piftols to be done, and put off the reft for a while,
2d. Our monthly prayer meeting. We ftiall tranfcribe a paffage
from one of the journals on this occafion, which others will feel with
fenfations of delight as we do : " O Lord, how greatly haft thou
" honoured me, that thoufands of thy dear children fhould be
" praying for me, a worm ! Lord, thou haft fet me in a heathen
•• land, but a land, if I may fo fpeak, flowing with milk and
" honey. O put more grace and gratitude into my poor cold heart,
" and grant that I may never with Jefhurun grow fat and kick."
3d. Employed on the boat. Vifited by the king and queen,
who fupply all our wants. Our hogs are increafed to feventy ; and
we have entreated them to bring no more. One of our fheep brought
a fine young ram lamb, much wanted.
5th. Held a meeting preparatory to the communion. Brother
Lewis, as eldeft minifter, after prayer, examined every one with great
fidelity and tendernefs, giving fuch exhortation and reproof as was
neceffary. A happy opennefs of mind and melting of heart pre-
vailed ; and fymptoms of genuine contrition for any paft impro-
prieties towards each other. This was the firft meeting of the kind
we had held, and it was truly profitable : we experienced fomething
of the healing and refrefhing prefence of God with us. Refolved
fuch meeting fhould be monthly.
7th. Vifited by a chief prieft from Papara, Temarree, who is re-
puted equal to Manne Manne. He is called an Eatooa ; fometimes,
Taata no t'Eatooa, the man of the Eatooa : he was dreffed in a wrapper
May.] to the SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 163
of Otaheitean cloth, and over it an officer's coat doubled round liim.
At his firll approach he appeared timid, and was invited in : he was
but jull fcated when the cuckoo clock {truck, and filled him with
aftonidiment and terror. Old Pyetca had brought the bird ibme
bread-fruit, obferving it mull be ftarved if we never fed it. At
breakfaft: we invited Temarree to our repaft ; but he firft held out his
hand with a bit of plantain, and looked very folemn, which one of
the natives faid was an oftcTing to the Eatooa, and we mufl receive:
when we had taken it out of his hand, and laid it under the table,
he fat down and made a hearty breakfaft.
Brother Cover read the tranflated addrefs to all thefe refpecSed
guefts, the natives liftening with attention, and particularly the
prieft, who feemed to drink in every word, but appeared difpleafed
when urged to caft away their falfe gods ; and on hearing the names
Jehovah and Jefus, he would turn and whifper. The people were
examined by the brethren if they underftood what was laid, and re-
peated a confiderable part of what had been delivered, and feemed
greatly pleafed.
9th. Temarree accompanied the king and queen, and ftaid to
dine with us. He is, we find, of the royal race, and fon of the
famed Oberea. He is the firft chief of the ifland after Pomarre, by
whom he has been fubdued, and now lives in friendfliip with him,
and has adopted his fon. He is alfo high in efteem as a prieft. His
name of Eatooa engaged our converfation. We told him the EatSoa
could not die, as he muft. A by-ftanding native faid, " that he
" muft be a bad Eatooa indeed; for he had himfelf feen one of his
" kind killed with a muflcet ; and that they were no gods who could
" be killed," Thefe priefts pretend to great power, as forcerers, to
kill and make alive ; and the people are in much awe of them : but we
fet their power at nought.
lath. We received afflidlive intelligence that Micklewright
and the Swede had fijxd upon the inhabitants at Eimeo : this grieved
Y 2
j64 first missionary voyage ,Xi797,
and alarmed us. We difpatched a letter to our brethren then with
Pomarrc, adviiing them of Avhat had happened, and haftening their
return. With thefe men we determined to have no more intercourfe.
13th. The birth-day of little Otoo HalTell ; but this name is (o
facrcd here, that every word into which Otoo enters is prohibited,
and may only be ufcd in fpeaking of and to the king.
14th. The tayo of Puckey returned from Oparre, and brought a
prefent : it being the Lord's day, he declined accepting it till the next
morning. Fewer natives attended the worfliip to-day than ufual.
15th. Our brethren returned in confequence of our letters, all but
brother Main, who ftaid one night with Temarree : he joined us the
next day.
1 6th, The account they give is, that they made the circuit of the
greater peninfula, and entered Tiaraboo, which Pomarree reprefented
as of very difficult travelling ; fo they returned by the fouth, and
were every where kindly received, and moft hofpitably entertained by
Temarree, who prevailed on brother Main to be his tayo, and gave
him and brother Clode each a double canoe, fliewing them all his
llores and fire-arms which he got from the mutineers ; the guns,
however, by the policy of the Swedes, are all bent. Pomarre, and
the king and queen, would fain have detained them, not meaning
themfelves to return to Matavai till the fliip comes. Every evening
and morning the king, or fome of the people, reminded them of the
parozv, or prayer, and joined with them attentively ; but fometimes
the natives were noify and interruptive : however, the brethren daily
maintained their worfliip, and on the fabbath retired, and enjoyed
fweet communion with God.
Their Angularity of manners in this part of the illand, which had
not been vifited by them, their finging, and afking a bleffing on
their meals, excited furprife and laughter, though probably not the
laugh of contempt; for every where they were treated fumptuoufly,
and fometimes on a table, with plates, in the Englifli fafliion. We
May.] to the SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 165
cannot omit an oblcivation here made by one of the brethren : " Yet
" all this kindnefs is not the gofpel : were we as gods among them,
*' we fliould be wretched, if they believed not our mefliigc."
" A prieft, who pretended to great power in witchcraft, pro-
" duced a rufli wrapped up in the form of a bird, and flicwcd me,"
fays one of the miflionaries, " how they worlhippcd their god by
" this inftrumcnt, and intimated that it gave the divine rcfponfe as
*' our bible. To a curious perfon it would have been a feall to
" examine, but my bowels yearned over their ignorance and idolatry.
" The fame prieft very kindly anointed my legs, which were much
" aftedled, with the juice of an herb, which gave me more relief
"before morning than all the applications I had made for three
•' weeks before ; fo that they are not dcftitute of fome medical know-
" ledge, probably the refult of experience."
Faffing into Tiaraboo, we vilited Pomarre's youngeft fon at
Matowee, his diftridt, the beft cultivated and moft populous wc
have feen. We flopped at Wyoteea, as Pomarre laid the next diftrid:
was not friendly to him ; but we went ourfelves and returned, and
met the fame civilities every where.
On our return, brother Broomhall, through fatigue, and catching
cold, had one day a fliarp feverifh attack. One of the priefts told
him this ficknefs was inflicfted upon him by the Otaheite Eatooa,
who was angry, and would kill him. Broomhall fiiid he was not at
all afraid of their god, who was a bad god, or rather no god ; that
our Jehovah fent it, and would remove it the next day. The faying
inflantly fpread among the natives ; and brother Broomhall began to
fear he had fpoken too haflily and unthinkingly of his fpecdy
recovery, and that God might be diflionoured if his illnefs increafed :
he therefore looked up earneftly to God in prayer to heal him. The
prieft came to him again and again, as he turned in his bed, and
afked if he fliould be well to-morrow ? He faid, he trufted his God
would reflore him. He had a rcfrefliing night's flcep, and on the
morrow found himfelf recovered, and rofe. Many of the natives that
»*
,66 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
day qucftioned him if he was well, and feemed aftoniflied at his reco-
very. The prieft, among the reft, defired to know if the Pretanee
God had lent away the ficknefs ; he faid. Yes ; and took this occa-
fion to fpeak to him about their fuperftitions, and urged that the
gods which he and his dehided followers worlhipped were no gods ;
but the prieft infifted that they had gods, and a great many, and
that they prayed to the good ones to keep away the bad ones ; and if
he did not blefs the food, the bad gods would enter into the men and
kill them. Brother Broomhall replied, that they were under no ap-
prehenfion of the bad god entering their food, let him pray as much
as he plcafed, he fliould eat without fear; but the prieft faid, he did
not wi(h to do him harm, and walked off confounded. This cir-
cumftance fhcws we muft cxped: oppofition when we have acquired
the language, and go forth among them to teftify that their deeds are
evil. O that we may rejoice in being counted worthy-to fuffer for
Chrift's name fake !
The accounts of former navigators as to the populoufnefs of the
country are greatly exaggerated. We think that not a fourth part {o
many will be found as Captain Cook fuppofes, perhaps not a tenth.
In this excurfion we vifited one chief, in whofe houfe were many
wooden gods, of different names : the god of the fun, and moon,
and ftars, of men, and women, and children, &c. They had each
a Iword, axe, or hammer in their hands, which, the prieft faid,
was to kill thofe who offended them, unlefs they offered a fa/trifice or
atonement for their crime. When they offer any thing, whether men
or hogs, or a canoe, they fay, " Take this, and be not angry." — Yet to
thefe wooden reprefentatives they feemed to pay little refpedt.
15th, Held a very profitable meeting, to exprefs the feelings of
our minds refpefting the work in which we are engaged. Haffell and
Hodges went to feek free fand at Oparre, but found none. Every houfe
offered them fowls, if they would ftay the drefling; and at Pomarre's
a hog was immediately killed and dreffed ; they got twenty pine-apple
plants : and as they returned they were met every where by the people
May.] to the SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 167
with apples, cocoa-nuts, and bread-fruit ; and one man forced upon
them a balket containing a roafted fowl and bread-fruit, which they
brought home, " I took occafion," fays one of them, " to fpcak
" againft their intoxication with yava. They faid it only made them
" dance, and tobacco did the fame. I wifli it never had been brought
*' here by us."
19th — 23d, Several fucceeding days are only marked with ordinary
occurrences. Happily to-day our fifter Henry increafed our number
with a healthy female child, after a fafe and eafy delivery. Thus,
inftead of death making inroads among us, and in a climate fo dif-
ferent from our native foil, not one of us is debilitated with difeafe.
Surely the defire of every heart is to devote all our ftrength to the
glory of the great Author of it.
a7th. The boat goes on briflily, and will foon be finifhed. Two
of us went to examine the coral reef before the mouth of the river :
on the infide the depth is very irregular ; in fome places the water is
two or three fathoms, in others a boat can fcarcely pafs. The bottom
is beautiful ; branching trees of coral, with fmall fifh of the moft
beautiful and vivid colours fwimming in the midfl of them. Our
canoe upfet, but no danger enfued.
aSth. " This evening, after divine fervice, I walked," fays
W. Puckey, " with a native who had been fome time with us ; and
*' from the beautiful fcene of creation around us, I took occafion to
•' difcourfe of Him who made all thefe things. He faid, The God
•* of Pretane made all things there, but not at Otaheite; that one of
" their gods reached up, and ftuck the ftars in the Iky ; and that
." Mawwa, a being of enormous ftrength, holds the fun with ropes,.
'• fo that he may not go fafler than he pleafes. I endeavoured to
" undeceive him refpecling thefe tales of their priefts ; and, pointing
•' to the houfe at Oparre, told him they were no gods who were
*' placed there, but the work of men's hands ; for there the three
'* great gods, Ooroo, Tane, and Taroa are, to whom they only
" facrifice in great extremities, whea the prieils fay they are angry.
i68 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
" I alkcd the young man, how they knew they were angry. He laid,
" By Ipeaking to us. 1 alked how this was done; he laughing faid,
" on thefe occafions, a pricft wrapped himfelf in a bundle of cloth,
" rolled up like a ball, and fpoke in a fliarp, llirill, fqueaking voice,
" ' I am ano-ry J fetch me hogs, kill a man, and my anger will be ap-
" pcafed.' I endeavoured to lliew him the folly and knavery of the
" impofture, and regretted my want of words and language to make
" myfclf better underftood. May the Lord haften the happy time,
" when the power of the gofpel lliall take root in the hearts of thefe
" benighted people ! "
29th. Refolved, without delay, to ered: a building for Mr. Lewis
to print a vocabulary and grammar ; and that each i^ember have a
copy, and one be fent to the diredors.
30th. Manne Manne fent his tayo, Mr, Cover, a prefent of a
double canoe, three goats, and about twenty fowls ; with thefe came
a letter from Andrew, the Swede, direded to Mr. Cover, wherein he
cxprefles a defire to have fome of the carpenters fent over to Eimeo,
to aflift in finifliing Manne Manne's veffel. We much fufped the
truth of what it contains, it is as follows :
" Sir,
" Upon the requeft of your friend Manne Manne, I muft inform
" you, that he delires your brethren woul'd come over to us as foon
" as polTible ; and if no more than one can be fparcd, that he would
*' bring a faw along with him, by means of which we may be able
" to proceed in finilhing the veffel, which, at the prefent time, is in
" danger of being burnt down to afhes, on account of a fpite that
" Pomarre's wife has againft the old man and me, and even your-
" felves, for us telling her that Ihe was in the wrong in killing of
" her own child. She has ordered the people in almofl: every diltrid
" of Eimeo to feize upon the old man, and kill him, and us, and
" every one that fliould take his part. We were affaulted the 8th of
*' this month by an infurredion of about three hundred men, be-
May.]
TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS.
169
longing to our own place, that came on purpofe to infult us ; but
we being forewarned a few days ago of their intentions, they did
not fucceed to their wifli, as the fleward and I were on our guard ;
and, as foon as they began to infult the old man, by firing a roiuid
or two amongft them they difpcrfed without the lofs of any life,
or hurt, except one man that was wounded by me, at the firil
onfet, with my cutlafs. They have now afkcd our pardon, and
begged peace ; but are ftill very miflruflful of them, as they have
removed what little they have to a diHant part ; that we are under
the neceflity of keeping a good look-out at night, for fear of them
fetting fire to the houfe, which they have threatened to do. So
if you cannot fpare any of the brethren to come over, plcafe to
fend word by the bearer of this what you think is beft to be done.
And, if any one fliould come, I woujld advife them to bring fome-
thing of defence with them, as that would greatly add to the fecu-
rity of ourfelves, as well as that of the vefTel.
" He has likewife fulfilled his promife to you, by fending you a
pair of canoes, three goats, and fome fowls. He has alfo fent by
the bearer two pieces of red cloth, which he wiflies you to get
made into an uniform coat, turned up with black or blue, and to
have it done as foon as poffible, fo that the bearers of this may
bring it back with him when he returns, which will be fome time
in going round to Tiaraboo.
" For my own part, I am forry I could not come over to you, on
account of the old man being afraid to flay by himfelf amongfl
thofe troublefome neighbours of ours. We are ftill contented, and
will be more comforted by hearing that you and your brctlircn
enjoy good health, unity and concord amongft yourfelves, and
peace with the natives. I have no more news at prcfent, and
therefore remain, with efteem, your friend and wcll-wiflier.
(Signed)
" Andrew Cornelius Lind.'
17© FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
At a meeting of the brethren, where this letter was read, it was
thought unfafe for any of them to go to Eimeo while there was caufe
of apprehension and danger. Neither could they at that time fpare a
faw, as they were employed in much neceffary work of their own.
But they agreed that the coat for Manne Manne fhould be made with
all pollible difpatch.
We have ftrong intimations given us that Micklewright and the
Swede intend to feize Manne Manne's veffel as foon as Ihe is fit for
fea, and make for Port Jackfon.
This afternoon our boat being completed, with the help of the
natives, we got her out of the houfe, and launched her into the river.
It is twenty-two feet long, fix broad, forty-fix inches at each end ;
the bottom feventeen ; height two feet fix inches. Forty natives
and two or three brethren jumped in as fhe went off, and rowed
down to the fea : fhe moves very fwiftly, confidering her flat bottom,
draws only two inches of water, and is about fix tons burden.
June ift. Held our preparation meeting for the Lord's fupper;
brother JefFerfon, leader : a precious and profitable feafon ; great open-
nefs of heart. Where any grievance had fubfifted, each acknowledged
his fault, and exprefled tender mutual forgivenefs j and much bleffing
followed.
2d, 3d. Employed in fitting up a printer's fhop. Vifited by a
number of ftrangers, and by Why 60a, the younger brother of
Pomarre, with his wife, a very elegant woman : fitted up a bedftead
for him, with which he was highly gratified.
4th. Enjoyed the ordinance of the Lord's fupper. A large body
of natives affembling round us, we embraced the opportunity of read-
ing to them an addrefs, tranflated by the Swede, which they faid
they underfiood, expreffed themfelves pleafed, and fpoke of it to one
another,
5th. About fifty people croffed the river, fent from Pomarre with
provifions, confifting of three hogs, bread-ft-uit, cocoa-nut, and
Ju.NE.] TO THE SOUTil-SEA ISLANDS. 171
mountain plantain, which each man carried at the ends of a pole
pafTed over his flioukkr.
6th. The monthly prayer-meeting at nine. How many holy
hands are lifted up for us !
7th. The natives who live with us pilfer us ; one of them this
morning confeiTed, and impeached his companions. They charged
principally two perfons w ho had left us : thefe were fcnt for, and one
of them being taken, owned the ftcaling of a large axe, and a check
Ihirt. He was imprifoned, but the ftolen goods being brought back
by his friends, he was releafed with a reprimand ; a cleaver was alfo
found at Attahooroo, and brought back. The other thief being at
the ifland of Eimeo, the natives fet off in a canoe to take him. In the
evening I fpoke to the young man we had difcharged, reminded him
of the kindnefs we had fhewn him when ill, and his ingratitude ; he
faid, ivith tears in his eyes, he was a taata eno, a very bad man.
9th. Dr. Gillham having his clothes ftolen while he was bathing,
three -or four of us purfued the thief j he fled. Hearing a drum, we
hafted to the place, and having intelligence the thief was there, we
rufhed in, and feized him finely drefled for dancing ; about a hun-
dred fled in a minute; we begged them not to be frightened, as
we only wanted the thief, whom we brought off", and chained to a
pillar of the houfe ; yet he contrived to go off" with the padlock ; but
being purfued, it was recovered, and he was difmiffed. None ever
think of refifl:ing ; yet, flrange to tell ! though they will run any
rifle to fteal, they fcarcely ever ufe what they get, but lay it up.
Pomarre and Otoo have each more articles than any among us, yet
they produce none, wear only a piece of cloth round them, and arc
ever craving for more.
nth. Brother Cover baptized the infant daughter of brother
Henry, and preached a very judicious difcourfe on baptifm. Many of
the natives were prefent, and looked with wonder, as if inquiring, what
can thefe things mean ? They all expreflfed great pleafure that a white
■^voman had produced a child among them, and arc exceedingly fond of
z 2
1 71 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
the infant. Hearing a hccva the other fide of the river, we called to
them to defift. Old Pyatca's wife came out, and faid they would do
fo no more, as it was the God of Pretane's day, and immediately left
off dancing.
We walked up the valley about a mile, where we have thoughts
of credling our new manfions j fat down under a tree : the natives,
men, women, and children, flocked around us, and fat down ; we
fung an hymn, and went to prayer for the falvation of the heathen,
in which themfclves joined in attitude, " O how I antedate the time,"
fays Puckey, " when I fhall be able to fpeak the language of thefe
" poor heathen ! what opportunities fhall I then enjoy ! O for more
"' of the primitive zeal of God's faints to declare his truth !"
1 2th. This day the coat was fent to Eimeo for Manne Mannc
by a man from Cornelius Lind, who waited for that purpofe. A
letter accompanied it in anfwer to that we had received.
"Sir, Matavai, June i2fh,
" Your letter of the 16th ult. I received on the 29th, with a
" canoe, three goats, and feveral fowls, as a prefent from my tayo
" Manne Manne j for which you will make him my grateful ac-
" knowledgments, and affure him it will afford me pleafure Vv^heii
" I fhall be able to render him a more fuitable return. Your requeli
" that two of the mifHonaries might be fent to afhft in finifhing the
*' vefTel, I laid before our body, and it was unanimoufly agreed, that
" in the prefent flate of the fociety we could not part with any of
•• the brethren, becaufe of the work necefHiry to be done before the
" arrival of the Duff, which we expeft in a few days; and all the
" time we can fpare will be needed for getting ready our letters for
" Europe.
" With refpedt to the infurredion you mention, of the 8th ult.
" various reports have reached our ears, which give us great un-
•• eafincfs, as we were informed you had killed two men. Knowing
•* neither the caufe which led to the perpetration of fuch an adl, nor
June.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 173
" the confcquences which might rcfiilt from it, we were induced to
*' recall five of our brethren who were on leave of abfcnce in the
" diftrid: of Paparra and Tiaraboo. We hope you gave no caufe to
" the natives to commence fuch an alTauIt. If it really originated
*' in the breaft of Iddeah from the part you took in reproving her
** for her crime, fear not her difpleafure : the Lord who hateth
" iniquity is able to deliver you out of her hand. You aflc our ad-
*' vice, what is beft to be done : we really know not how to counfel
" you in this refpecft, but hope your pcrfons by this time are out of
*' danger of Iddeah's refentment. Should it continue on the caufe
" you fiiggeft, we fliould afford you prote(5lion under our roof.
" By the bearer we fend an uniform coat for Manne Manne, made
*' of the cloth fent us, and hope it will give him fatisfadtion. The
•* brethren join with me in grateful acknowledgments for all fer-
*' vices; and I remain
•' Your fincere friend,
" J. F. Cover.'
>*
A faft was reported to us this day, which, if true, was fliocking.
In one of Captain Cook's vifits he left a great monkey, who was
made a chief at Attahooroo ; he had a wife and thirty fervants, and
abundance of every thing : they called him Taata ooree harrai, the
great man dog. One day the woman feeing him catch the flics and
eat them, which they abominate, Ihe ran away into the mountains ;
the monkey and his toutous purfued, but being met by Temarre, who
was jealous of his authority, he knocked him down with a club, and
■killed him. '
One of our brethren this afternoon fitting in his birth writing, a
young girl came in, and expreffed her furprife that we behaved fo
diflferent to them from what all our countrymen had done. He told
her that fuch pradices were wicked, and that if we did fuch things
our God would be angry. " Oh," faid (he, " but I will come to
" you in the night, and then none can fee us." — He replied, ♦' No-
,74 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
" thing can be hid from our God; the night to him is as bright as
" the day, and there is no darknefs or fliadovv of death where any
'* of the workers of wickednefs can hide themfelves. But, if you
*' firft put away your evil cufloms, then we fhould love you."
14th. Vifited by Mawroa, with a vaft fupply of vegetables;
three arreoies accompanied him, amazingly fat, and tattoued all over.
This focicty is conflantly wandering about from ifland to ifland.
They are the finefl: perfons we have feen, are faid to have each two
or three wives, which they exchange with each other ; and inhu-
manly murder every infant that is born among them. Wherever they
go they exercife power to feize what they want from the inhabitants.
They fmite their hand on their breaft, and fay, " Harre, give," when-
ever they covet any thing, and none dares deny them. They never
work J live by plunder ; yet are highly refpecfted, as none but perfons
of rank are admitted among them. This makes women fo fcarce, and
other horrid vices fo commoji. May God hallen the time of reform-
ation !
1 6th, The weather has been unfettled for two or three days. In
general we have had it delightful and pleafant ; and no hotter than
we have felt in England. We have been able to work all day without
inconvenience.
18th. Opened the day as ufual, and enjoyed much of God's pre-
fence ; embraced the opportunity to addrefs the natives in a written
difcourfe. They affured us that men, women, and children underftood
us, and iaid, in Englifh, " Very nice, and very good;" repeating
it often, but defired we would put away the Pretane parow, and
fpeak to them in their own tongue, which we promifed them to do
as foan as we ihould be able. And oh, that He may give us fome
of thefe fouls for our hir?, who fent us hither ! We might have a
hoft of converts if, like many mifTionaries, we would admit to bap-
tifm thofe who confefs our God and religion to be better than their
own. But till we fee them created anew in Chrifl: Jefus, and turned
truly from daiknefs to light, and from the power of Satan unto God,
June.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 17^
We fliall not admit them to the participation of our Hicred ordi-
nances.
A brother took occafion to fpeak to Tappeoy, one of our affiftants,
and explain what Mr. Cover had preached in the morning, and told
him he had himfclf left father, and mother, and iifler, and many
friends, to inform him about our God and Saviour Jefus Chrift, &c.
He liftened with attention, and feemed much affected, fliying. Never
Engliflimen there before talked and ad:ed as we did.
19th. Got up the flag-flaff forty feet high, rigged like a mafl,
but had like to have loft my life in procuring it from the mountains,
whither we went. The natives climb like fquirrels. I followed
them till the rock became perpendicular, and I dreaded, when I
looked down, how to defcend again without being dafhed in pieces.
I committed myfelf to God, and holding by little pits in the rocks
very flippery with rain, defcended trembling ; one hold failing, I muft
have gone headlong down the precipice ; indeed, without the help of
the natives, I never could have got down at all. I immediately of.
fered them all the fifli-hooks and beads about me. One ft ranger
only accepted a fifh-hook ; the reft refufed to take any thing from me ;
and he who took the hook faid he would go and get the pole we
wanted.
A chief had a hog ready dreffed for us, and faid, any poles we
wiflied fhould be fent on Friday. As we came back we found the
river much fwollen with rain, and were carried over in many places
by the natives. The valley was full of apple-trees loaded with fruit,
and hundreds lying on the ground negleded.
On the 24th feveral natives came from other diftri(fls where the bread-
fruit began to be fcarcc, to gather fome from the trees in Matavai ; upon
which thofe of the diftrid, confidering the brethren as proprietors,
came and complained to them; faying, that, except they prevent :d it,
there would be no fruit left. Accordingly two of our body were
difpatched to talk with them, and claimed their fole right to all the
produce of the trees. The ftrangers promifed to come no more, c«i]y
,yg FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
begged permiflion to take what they had got, which Was granted i
and alfo a canoe lent them, the better to convey the fruit home.
The old chief, according to promife, brought us the poles, for
■which a knife was given him, and fome red feathers, which greatly
delighted him. Went to Oparre in our boat for wood ; hofpitably
entertained; vifited the morai, where the great god Ooroo refides,
reprefented by an ugly piece of wood ; faw there feveral altars and
fkuUs of men who had been facrificed. One of the altars was forty-
five feet long, fupported on pillars of the bread-fruit tree about feven
feet high; the other about twelve feet fquare, and on the top an
arched flied like the tilt of a waggon ; here the wooden god was
laid. One Ikull we obferved fplit acrofs, and in the midft of the
moral a fait pool with a young turtle. — Oh 1 when Ihall all thefe
horrid fcenes be clofed, and Chrift alone be exalted ?
25th. Service as ufual . The natives are very fond of being drefled ;
we have lent clothes to feveral, which at night they honeflly returned;
but they have committed fome petty thefts, and we hardly know
what to do with them: we areiloth to punifh them, yet impunity
emboldens them in depredation.
A native coming into our apartments, a brother took occafion to
fpeak to him about God. He owned the Otaheitean gods were enow,
bad, for they ate men, hogs, bread-fruit, &c. which the Pretane
God did not, and was " a good fellow," an Englifh term he had
picked up. He obferved alfo, that when we fpoke to the Pretane
god the good rain comes, and when we do not the good rain goes
away, and the hot fun Ihines ; a heavy rain having fallen on two
fucceflive fabbaths.
26th. A great quantity of bread-fruit was brought to-day to make
mahie, as the time approaches when ripe fruit will be fcarce in the
diftrid for two months. It is truly wonderful to fee how Providence
has furniflied this place : as foon as the bread-fruit fails in this
diftricl it is ripe in another, fo that we never want. Cocoa-nuts and
plantain we have all the year round j as the evee apples get ripe on
July.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 177
one tree,, young ones come on in another. Few trees ever lofe their
leaves, and are only dcftitute of fruit for about two months.
ayth. A prefent came from Pomarrc for the two brethren who
work at the forge; a pair of good canoes, feven lobflcrs, a number
of fine fliells, feven or eight couple of fowls, two large hogs, with
a quantity of Otaheitcan cloth j and a mcffage to come to him for
more whenever they wanted.
28th. A looking-glafs was ftolen by a female native from the
women's apartment ; we refolved to expel the man and his wife till
it was reftored. Held our monthly meeting before the communion
in great union of heart.
'Zgth. Had a neft of fix young rabbits ; if they profpcr, the hills
will foon breed them in abundance. Met before the communion ;
happy unanimity prevailing among us, and unreftraincd freedom of
communication. Paid a vifit to Oparre j moft hofpitably entertained
by Mawroa : he appears a fteady friend. About half the beautiful
valley in which he lives belongs to him ; went with him a-fifhing
with a fmall feine ; caught plenty of falmon-trout.
30th. Preparing letters for the return of the vefTel, and our ufual
employments.
July ill. Otoo fent a meffage, defiring us to difcharge certain per-
fons from the houfe, whom he defcribed as great thieves j at the
fame time he nominated others, whom he wifhed to recommend to
us in the capacity of fervants. Thefe the brethren knew to be the
creatures of Otoo, or, more properly, a part of his mifchievous gang,
and faw clearly and without unjufl fufpicion, tliat he wanted them
in for no other purpofe than to flieal witli the greater facility; there-
fore his motion was rejedled. Though it was true many things
had been ftolen, yet we did not think the fervants guilty : but Otoo's
having his own men conftantly going about the diftridls ftealing from
the poor natives whatever they fee, fufficiently charaderizes them,
and would deter our people from keeping any of them about the
houfe.
A A
i^S FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
5th. A grand aflcmbly of arreoies vifited Pyeteah, and began their
fports on the other fide of the river ; many came over the river, and
heard brother Cover, forming, as ufual, a half-circle before him.
6th. A great fhout of the natives this morning, " Te pahee,
" Tc pahee," brought us out of our houfe, and to our great joy the
white fails fhone before us; went many of us on board, and rejoiced
with the captain in the pcrfed: heahh and fafety of all the crew.
JcLv.J TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 179
CHAPTER Xni.
TranfaBions during our Stay at Otaheitc, and Survey to afccriain
the Population of the JJland.
-I HE tranfadlions of this fecond vifit will defcrve a diftindt confi-
deration. The joy of meeting was great, but the ftay of the fliip
being no longer neceflary, a fpcedy departure was announced, and
every preparation begun : among thefe was the difcharge of the re-
maining cargo, and thofe treafures of iron and fteel that were to be
now finally divided between the miffionaries at the Friendly and
Society Iflands. Accordingly, on the 6th of July, Mr. Harris being
landed with his property, in the evening the captain went on fliorc ;
when a meeting was held, where the public journal was read, and
various matters were difcufTed concerning the proceedings of the fo-
ciety, and how they fliould divide the things in the (liip between
fhem and the party at Tongataboo ; when it was agreed to choofe
two brethren to ad in their behalf, and two for themfelvcs, under
the infpe<3:ion of the captain.
7th. This morning the four miffionaries appointed to divide the
goods began their work ; the captain fuperintended, and Mr, Jef-
ferfon adled as fecretary, taking an account of the various articles
which each party received. This bufinefs, it was forefeen, would
coft much time and trouble ; but as no other method could be devifed
of giving all parties fatisfadlion, the captain promifed to ftay till tiie
firft of Auguft, which would alfo give the brethren time to finifla
their letters. The captain obferves with pleafiire, that the two bre-
thren appointed to reprefent their brethren at Tongataboo were moft
attentive to their intereft, and rather a larger fhare was allotted them
than if two of themfelves had been prefent.
A A 2
,So FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
An Invitation was fent to the wives of the mifllonarles, who,
flo^recably thereto, dined and fpent the day on board : they expreffed
much plcafure on finding us all in good health and fpirits, and left
us in the evening highly delighted with their vifit. As for the natives,
they crowded on board, few coming empty-handed : many of them
were in the Englifh drefles which had been given them by the bre-
thren ; and feveral of them fpoke many phrafes of broken Englifh,
fuch as, " Welcome again; Glad to fee you. Captain Wilfon."
8th. Iddcah fent a meflenger this morning to know if fhe might
come to our houfe. On confultation, we agreed that brother Cover
Ihould go and fpeak with her j and that if flie expreffed any concern
for her cruelty to her infant, and affured us flie would no more of-
fend us with fuch condud, we (hould be glad to receive her. In this
fhe acquiefced, though we have no great profpedl of a change : flie
came, however, under fuch profeffions, and drank tea with Mrs.
Cover J and continuing with us till dark, returned much pleafed with
her reception.
9th. To-day being Sunday, not one canoe was feen off in the bay,
and the whole diftritl appeared remarkably quiet. Mr. Cover and
Lewis came on board to ad: as chaplains for the day : the former
preached in the forenoon from the fecond epiftle of Peter, chap. iii.
ver. 18. j the latter in the afternoon from Philippians, chap. i. ver. 28.
1 0th. Andrew the Swede came from Eimeo, and prefented the
captain with a fine turtle. Mawr5a, a kind friend to us and the
miffionaries, brought a hog and a great quantity of bread-fruit ; his
wife, named Aowh, was with him j fhe was formerly the wife of
Motuara, chief of Eimeo, is the real fifter of Pomarre, and mother
of Tetua the prefent queen, Otoo's wife : fhe is a very intelligent
woman, and Mawr5a himfelf is better acquainted with the iflands
than any man we have converfed with. Aowh informed us, that
in the family of which fhe was a branch, the reigning prince had
been called Otoo; which name paffed to their firll-born, whether male
or female, the inftant it was born ; the cuflom obliging the father ever
July.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. j8x
after to take fome other name. I mentioned before, that the grand-
father of the prefent Otoo changed his to Otcy, his father to that of
Teina, and next to that of Pomarre, and fo on ; for having loft their
royalty by the birth of their child, they may change their names as
oft as they pleafe, but cannot before. Otey was the fiither of Po-
marre, Oreepiah (lately deceafed), Pytouah, chief of Wapiawno,
and Aowh. Pytouah is an arrcoie of the firft rank, has a rough,
difgufting look, and is much addicfted^to ava drinking ; he was amongfl;
our vifitors of this day, and received a prefent : they were exceedingly
glad to fee us, and exprcfled much attachment.
It has already been noticed, that fome of the brethren had made
a tour of the ifland, and fuppofed the number of inhabitants on both
peninfulas to be about fifty thoufand : this fum, though lefs than a
quarter of what Captain Cook calculated them at, was ftill thought
by us as greatly exceeding the population. Therefore Captain Wilfon
agreed with Peter to accompany me in a circuit of the ifland, and to
try fome method of eftimating the number of people in each difl:ridt.
On Tuefday the 1 1 th we accordingly fet off, having firfl: engaged a
man to convey us acrofs the numerous rivulets which we muft necef-
farily pafs, and two others to carry my linen and -what things
Peter wanted. It was about noon when we landed near One Tree hill,
and began the journey eaftward through the interior of Matavai,
where the land is far from being clear of underwood ; for the befl
roads are unpleafant by reafon of the long grafs, which bears a bur
called by the natives peeree-peeree, and adhering to the flockings
becomes painful : the flies were alfo very troublcfome. The bread-
fruit and cocoa-nut trees abounded in perfedlion, and afforded an ex-
cellent fliade from the heat of the fun. In this diflridt there are alfo
the wild cotton trees, fome of which were in bloom, but being of a
very inferior kind made no luxuriant fliew ; fome fpots were planted
with ava and fugar-cane, and in fome places the latter was growing
wild.
The river of Matavai receives its fupplies from the lofty moun-
i82 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
tains which hereabouts form the interior of- the ifland ; then running
a winding courfe down the valley, and through the low grounds of
the diftrid:, paffes tiofe by the miffionary houfe, and difembogues at
the extremity of Point Venus, At the entrance from the fea it is
fo Ihallow, that no veflel drawing above two or three feet water can
enter it ; nor can they proceed farther up than a quarter of a mile.
When we came to its banks, Peter fliewed me the fpot where he
difplayed his firft feats in their wars, and which ultimately ended fo
much in favour of Pomarre and his fon Otoo. I defired him to
give me fomc account of them. He immediately complied ; but
dvv^elt {o much upon his own performances, as rendered it difficult
for me to feparate the effentials of the llory from his frivolous
boafting.
The firft war, he fliid, happened in 1 793, when he had been but
five months upon the ifland. It feems, that a chief named Whanno
had fucceeded in wrefting the diflridt of Whapiawno from Pytouah ;
and confcious that hy this ufurpation he would offend Pomarre,
he prepared to attack him firfl:, but did not condudt his plans
with fo much fecrecy as to prevent his defigns coming to the know-
ledge of Pomarre. The latter, though not a warlike chief, prepared
to oppofe Whanno with all his ftrength. Peter and Andrew were
engaged, with the Jew, who was a good markfman. Whanno had
to affift him almoft every chief on the north-eafl fide of the large
peninfula. When all was ready, the latter chief fent word to Po-
marre of what he intended ; and a day or two after entered Matavai
with all his men. Iddeah was at that time on fome bufinefs at the
eaftern part of the diftricfl, and nearly fell into their hands ; they
chafed her to the river, where Pomarre's party ftood ready to receive
them. Iddeah got fafe over, and placed herfelf in the front of the
men J when one of the enemy, bolder than the reft, ran acrofs the
flream, and aimed a ftroke at her; and would, but for Peter, who ftood
clofe by, have effe(fted her death : he running to her aid, and feeing
the man lift his club, wrefted it out of his hands, chafed him back
July.] TO THE SOUTH- SEA ISLANDS. 183
through the river ; and more of the party coming up, the man was
killed. The body of Whanno's troops had retired a little back ; but
one flculking behind a tree was fhot. This threw all the reft of
Whanno's men into a panic; they precipitately fled, and in great
confufion : two more were flain in the chafe, from which Po-
marre returned vidor. This fecured to him the diftrids of Matavai,
Oparre, and Tettaha, all he feems then to have been pofTcflld of.
Five or fix days after this he muftered his men, now fluihed with
fucccfs, and proceeded to Whapiawno. Whanno and his men were
afraid; a running fight took place, one woman was killed, but the
warriors fled to the mountains. However, in three days they came
down and renewed the combat, and were now feverely beaten, no
lefs than twenty-five of their number being flain; which, confidering
their fhynefs to clofe in battle fince the introdudlionof a few muflccts,
was certainly a great number. This vidtory entirely cruflied Whanno,
and by it all the northern fide of the peninfula, from Matavai to the
ift;hmus, became fubjed; to Pomarre and his fon Otoo. Still they
had powerful enemies who were meditating a gram! attack upon
them ; thefe were Wyheatua, king of Tiaraboo, and Temarrc, chief
over all the diftrids on the fouth fide from the ifthmus down to
Attahooroo: over the latter diftrid: was young Towha, who wilhed to
remain neuter, but was forced by Pomarre to join his party, though
he was more inclined to favour Temarre, and was afterwards charged
with having fecretly concerted matters fo as to gain him the battle.
Temarre encouraged his men by telling them that he had mulkets,
powder, ball, and white men, as well as his adverfary ; and that
themfelves were more numerous than Otoo's party. The whites he
had were Connor, an Irifliman, and James Butcher, a Scotchman,
both of the Matilda's crew. Accordingly, about a month after the
battle of Whapiawno, thefe powerful adverfaries met in the diftrid
of Attahooroo ; but being afraid of each other in no fmall degree, the
firft day was fpent and nothing done. In all their movements they
furrounded the white men, trufting more in them than ever an Aliatic
,34 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
did in his elephant. On the fecond day the onfet began ; but in a
fliort time Towha's men, who were in front, ran away, and all
Pomarre's followed their example ; which was afterwards charged on
Towha, as his preconcerted fcheme : Peter, Andrew, and the Jew,
however, flood their ground, and fliot four men. Butcher and
Connor were obliged to run for their lives, and Oammo, the father
of Temarre, was killed by a muflcet fliot. Thefe advantages brought
their party back to aflill: them ; all their adverfaries fled, and a com-
plete vidory was gained for Pomarre, whom they found at a great
diflance from the fight, quite overcome with fear, and lying flat on
the ground, held fafl: by the roots of a tree. When they acquainted
him with their fuccefs he would hardly believe it, but continued to
lie like one out of his fenfes : fo little courage did this chief of the
vidorious army pofTefs. The routed party fled to the remoter diftrids ;
fome took refuge in the hills ; one man in particular got up a very
dangerous precipice, and threw large Hones on his enemies below,
and kept his flation till he knew their rage had fubfided. The con-
fequence of this battle was, that Temarre became fubjedl to the
vidlors ; was obliged to give to Otoo the great moral at Pappara : alfo
every other privilege of the fupreme chief. A houfe was built by
Otoo in all his diftridis, where fome of his fervants conflantly refide,
and he occafionally vifits : they reprefent his fovereignty, and none
dare to pafs them without flripping, the fame as to himfelf. How-
ever, notwithftanding thefe things, the power of Temarre was flill
very great ; he was left in pofleffion of all his diftridls, and exercifes
the office of chief prieft of the Eatooa on that fide of the ifland.
Towha being charged with treachery, was flripped of his diftrieft,
and obliged to live as a private man in Pappara. Wyheatua had fled
to Tiaraboo, where in a fliort time after he was defeated, and re-
duced in a like manner as Towha to a private flation, and Otoo's
younger brother made prince of his kingdom.
Pomarre being now in pofTefTion of all Otaheite, thought of re-
venging the injury the chief of Eimeo had formerly done by deflroying
Jl'ly.] to the SOUTII-SEA islands. 185
his canoes and the hoiifcs of Matavai. With this intent he fcnt
his party againft that ifland, where his fiftcr Wyrccde Aowh made
fome refinance; but fcven of her men being killed, Ihe was obliged
to acknowledge the conqueror, and take up her refidencc in Ota-
heite. In her flead Iddeah and Manne Manne were made chiefs of
the ifland.
Thus Pomarre (the Otoo of Captain Cook), on whom the fa-
vour of the Englifla had drawn many enemies, and who at different
times was fo chafed and fl:raitened by them, that, afraid of his
life, he has frequently entreated his vifitors to take him off the ifland,
had now, at a very good time, extended his power far beyond all
former example, and that without either courage or talents for war
comparable to his enemies ; fo that I cannot but afcribc it to the pro-
vidence of the Almighty, who ordcreth all things after the counfel
of his own will, and for the accompli fliment of his glory and gra-
cious purpofes. In whatever way thcfe events are viewed, they cer-
tainly are much in favour of the mifllon ; for it is clear, that thofe
employed in it ca:n proceed in their work with greater fafety than
when the natives were continually engaged in war.
Leaving Matavai river we came to the eaftern part of the diftridl
of Matavai, called Teahonoo, over which Wyreedc Aowh prefldes.
She and her fecond hufljand, Mawroa, were at Oparre, where they
alfo have a dwelling. Their houfe in this place is exceedingly neat
and clean ; before it is a platform of gravel ftones carefully levelled
and fmooth, and at the front of this a regular row of cocoa-nut
trees ; and by the fide of the houfe a fine rivulet of frefli water runs
from the hills. The low land hereabouts is not more than a hundred
yards wide. Her fervants were bufy preparing a brown dye from
the bark of a tree called mohoo, which they broke fmall into a bowl
of water, and letting it lie till foftened, they bruifed it till the liquid
became of the colour they wanted. \Vc next afcended a high
hill called Tappahey, which runs into the fea, and feparates Ma-
li B
i36 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
tavai from Whyripoo. The hill is included in the former diftrid:,
a 'i^rcat ftone on the eaft fide being fixed on for the boundary of each.
From Tappahey the fmall diftridt of Whyripoo extends near a
mile, the fhore flraight, and the low ground about two hundred
yards wide ; it has alfo a valley of fmall extent. We walked about
half way along it, and flopped for a while at the houfe of Inna
Madua, the widow of Oreepiah. She was abfent, but her head
fervant Aheinc Eno received me kindly, and would have dreffed
feme fifli if I had promifed to wait ; but wanting to go further, I
declined his offer. This man having a fhrewd, intelligent coun-
tenance, I defired Peter to communicate to him the purpofe of our
journey, and to afk how many perfons he thought ufually refided
in Whyripoo j afligning for our motive the wifh of the earees of
Pretane to render them fervice according to their numbers : when he
inflantly fuggefled a mode, which I afterwards adopted. He faid,
that in Whyripoo there w^ere four matteynas, and to each matteyna
there were ten tees ; and by thefe he eftimated the number of men,
women, and children, to be about two hundred and fifty. I defired
him to explain what a matteyna was, and what was a tee. The for-
mer, he faid, was a principal houfe, diflinguiflaed either by a degree
of rank in its ancient or prefent owner, or by a portion of land being
attached to it j and fometimes on account of its central fituation to a
tew other houfes : that the matteyna fets up a tee (or image) at the
moral, which entitles it to the liberty of worfliipping there; and
the other houfes in the department of the matteyna claim a part in
the fame privilege, and are thence called tees : that in fome matteynas
there are eight or nine perfons in the family, in others but two or
three ; and that it frequently happens, that a matteyna or a tee is
totally defertcd. Therefore, from this account, and what I after-
wards faw of the thin population, I allow but fix perfons to each
matteyna, and the fame to a tee, as the latter is often occupied by a
larger family than the former, and as both terms do fometimes apply
July.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 187
to the famehoufe; confequently, as often as this occurs, there will
be an error of fix in excefs.
According to the above, the number in
Whyripoo is — — Mat. 4x6= 24
Tees 40 X 6 = 240
264 fouls.
Aheine Eno, the name this man at prefent went by, means a
bad woman ; it feems that his miftrefs Inna Madua was a character
of this kind, and had got this name from the natives; but not Hking
it, transferred the name (though not the odium) to her fervant. This
diftridl did belong to Whapiawno, but was lately prefented by Py-
touah to his brother's widow.
The next projedling hill which obftrudled our pafTage is called
Row-row-apare ; it divides Whyripoo from Whapiawno : we pafTed
it by the fea up to the ancles in water, and then had to walk round
a bay about a quarter of a mile wide, when we came to a fine border
of low land, which at this part, being the wejfl entrance of the dif-
tridl, is about a furlong and a half wide, in length coaftwife a mile
and a half, and at the eaft part not quite a furlong wide ; thence to
the eaft end of the diflridl the hills run clofe to the fca, and the road
lies over rugged fharp rocks. There is a fine valley which opens
about a mile eaft of Row-row-apare, abounds with fruit-trees a con-
liderable way up, and is inhabited. This is the only valley that
runs quite acrofs the ifland; on the oppofite fide it opens into Pap-
para, a little weft of the great morai.
Pytouah refides at the weft part of the low land ; and as it was
too late for me to reach another diftridl, I propofed ftaying here for
the night. Both himfelf and his wife I knew were at the ftiip, but
his head man, or overfeer, very readily drefled a pig ; and after we
had dined I took a walk through the diftrid:, and Peter with nrie.
The houfes here were all neat and well built, and there was bread-
8 B 2
,88 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
fruit in abundance. We flopped at one place where three houfes
flood, and inquired of the owner, how many matteynas were in the
diftridl; to anfwcr this he took fbme fmall rods, and naming each
mattcyna as he counted them into Peter's hand, made the whole
number thirty-two, including Whyripoo, for which he counted the
fame as I had got before ; therefore, dedudling four, the number is
twenty-eight. In fome, he faid, were ten tees, in others nine,
eight, and feven; and made the fame obfervations on their being
peopled as Aheine Eno had done ; therefore, as I could not get the
tees exadly, I counted as under: viz.
Matt.
7 of 10 tees =: 70-\ Brought forward 264
7 of 9 do. = 03 I S38 X 6 = 1428-1 _ ,
7 of 8 do. = 56 r 28 X 6 = 168/ - l^
7 of 7 do. = 49J • ,ggg
tliofe of the valley included,
men, women, and children.
Before we got back to Pytouah's houfe it was dark, and they had
all gone to reft but one man, who fhewed me to a new houfe, where,
for want of bed or bed-clothes, I flept on the ground, and fpent the
night very uncomfortably ; and might have fpent it worfe, had not
Peter, towards morning, lent me a blanket, which he had brought as
a neceffary article in travelling round Otaheite.
12th. At daybreak we proceeded on our journey, and pafTmg
feveral good houfes, came to the river, which is here three feet deep.
My man Charles took me on his fhoulders, and carried me
through with great eafe. When we had gone a little farther we came
to a very bad road, having to walk over the flones fallen from the.
rocky cliffs which projed: here. One place was very dangerous ; it
is called Oratatahah. We had to afcend the cliff half way, and pafs
along a narrow path where was hardly room to fix the feet. The
rock is quite perpendicular; and, had we fallen, it was near twenty
fathoms above the fea, which beat violently againfl 'the bafe. Here
it is faid Pomarre once fell, but the tide being up at the time, when
he found he was going, he threw himfelf well off, and received but
4
July.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 189
little harm. When wc had fafcly paflTcd this fpot, we fat down on
the rocks to breakfaft on the remains of Pytouah's pig ; for it is the
cuftom here, that whatever their hofpitality provides for ftrangers,
the fragments of it are always brought away. About nine o'clock
we came to a fteep rock which terminates Whapiawno, and forms
the weft point of a fmall bay. The caftern point is called Owhoona.
Betwixt the two is a fmall diftridt called Wharoo-my, over which
Wyreede Aowh prefides ; it has a valley running up a little diftance;
it has but one matteyna and nine tees, equal to fixty perfons. A
little further eaft is another fmall diftridl belonging to Manne Manne,
called He- wow ; it has two matteynas ; in one there are feven tees, in
the other four, which makes the number of inhabitants feventy-cight.
Manne Manne, who has feveral of thefe eftates, was at Eimeo, and
the care of the place was in the hands of Teboota, his head man,
who was at this time carrying on the building of a large houfe for
the old prieft. Teboota prefuming on his mafter being tayo to the
captain, infifted on my ftaying to refrefh at his houfe, and imme-
diately began dreding a couple of fowls and a young pig. In the
interim the people ran trom every quarter of the diftricft, in order to
gratify their curiofity ; yet when they had all got together and fat
down, I could count no more than thirty-five, which is certainly no
fign of extraordinary population. After receiving a good dinner from
Teboota, and much kind treatment, my followers packed up the
fragments, and I paid our generous hoft with a draft on the captain
for a pair of fciifars ; and as they have no doubt of the fpecificd value
of the paper, and have learnt how to negotiate the notes, he feemed
quite rich. What a commencement of civilization I
We next came to the fmall diftrid: of Hahbawboonea, and pafling
a hill called Oteteawno, reached another almoft equally fmall, named
Honoowhyah, In the former are one matteyna and eight tees, equal
to fifty- four perfons. The latter has three matteynas, containing in'
all twenty-eight tecs, and one hundred and eighty-fix inhabitants.
The fhore along thefe two diftricHis is a fandy beach, and bending a
,90 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
little inward makes a curve. The low land on which the houfes are
built forms in each place a kind of triangle, the interior corner of
each being joined to a valley, formed by fteep hills on each fide,
which are covered with trees to their fummits, and running in a
winding diredion : they afford a view remarkably wild and romantic.
Rivulets of excellent vv'ater run through both diftridls, which, not-
withftanding, hardly deferve to be mentioned for fertility.
Otoo has one of his regal houfes in Honoowhyah, and, in paffing
it, my company was obliged to ftrip. Nearly oppofite is a fmall
rock, a little way advanced into the fea, facred to the feet of Otoo ;
for none befides dares to ftand upon it ; and I think he deferves to
ftand the ftatue of Folly, if ever he raifes his own living image there.
In walking along, about forty people came with great eagernefs to
gaze; had the place been populous, I think more would have come.
Rounding another hill, we came to thediftrid: of Nahnu Nahnoo :
it belongs to Pomarre, and is much like thofe I had lately paffed in
appearance and population ; it has three matteynas and eighteen tees,
which makes the number of inhabitants one hundred and twenty-fix.
The next dividing hill is called Peepe-pee ; we walked round it
over fharp rocks, which are a kind of bafaltes. A little further eaft-
ward there is a gentle flope from the hills towards the beach, and
upon this flope are many cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees, but no
houfe or inhabitant. After paffing this we came to the diftrid of
Otyayree ; in the middle of it the low land is about a furlong wide,
narrowing towards the extremes. The fhore is aflat rock; the coafl:
bending out and in. I flopped at a chief's houfe ; his name is Noe
Noe; and had the following account : namely, two matteynas and
twenty-two tees, equal to one hundred and forty-four inhabitants.
This chief had a double canoe jufl finiflied ; it was the largeft I had
feen, meafuring in length fifty-eight feet, exclufive of a long board
which runs over the fore part ; the ftern was twelve feet high, though
a-midftiips only three feet and a half. The two were faftened to-
gether in the ufual method by rafters, upon which a platform was
July.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 191
made, where a houfe was intended to be placed for the principal per-
fons to fit or lleep in ; and this I fuppofe is one of the larger war
canoes, though not fuited for expert manoeuvres.
Having done my bufinefs here, I intended to have gone a few miles
farther, but had not proceeded many yards when I met Poppo, the tayo
of Dr. Gillham, who entreated me to flay all night at his houfe j
which offer I accepted, being rather fatigued with travelling over
bad roads all the day. Poppo was very affiduous to entertain me well.
A pig was inftantly killed, and a comfortable bed prepared. Here
about forty people colledted. The fupper, which was very good,
was ferved up with fait water. Before I went to reft I made my
kind hoft and his wife each a fmall prefent, and in return they gave
me the cloth which compofed my bed, and alfo an upper garment.
13th. At daylight we renewed our journey. Poppo accompa-
nied us to the end of the diftrid, which is at a hill called Annaboo :
from hence I firft got a fight of Tiaraboo, but ftill at a confiderable
diflance from it. The diftridt we were now come to is called Wah-
aw-heinah. The low land is here about a quarter of a mile broad,
and the fame in length ; behind are lofty hills, forming two valleys,
whence run large rivulets of water, which, after intcrfedmg the
low ground in feveral places, unite near the fea, and form a deep and
rapid ftream. In fording it my man Charles was up to the middle,
fo that in rainy weather it muft be impradlicable to crofs at all.
The coaft along the diftrid bends in; the beach is black coral fand,
and on it the fea broke violently.
We flopped at a houfe as large as that of the miflionaries, where
were feveral natives, but none poffeffed the intelligence we wanted;
therefore one was difpatched to bring a proper perfon, who informed
us that in the diflrid were four chiefs, of whom Roorah was prin-
cipal ; each is over a matteyna ; two of thefe matteynas have eleven
tees each, one fifteen, and one fixteen ; the number of people is ac-
cordingly three hundred and forty-two.
,,^ FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
Proccedin'^ thence, the next hill (or cliff) we came to is called Boo-
te-a\vinoo, which divides the latter diftrid: from Hedeah, which laft
runs quite to the ifthmus. Off this place where we now were, and
diftant about a mile from the fliore, there lie two fmall iflets ; the
weffernmoft is called Booroo, the other Wharre-arra-roo. From thefc
Charles informed me that a reef runs quite down to Matavai : it lies
about two miles off fliore, and has in fome places only four and five
fathoms water upon it.
Turning the point of Boo-te-awmoo, the land bends fouthward to-
wards the ifthmus. When we had got a little way we flopped at
Peter's friend's houfe; he was by trade a fiflierman, who fupplied
his neighbours with fifli, and received from them canoes, hogs,
fruit, roots, and cloth. He had been on the reefs, and came in
\vhile we flaid with fome lobflers and mullet, of which he gave us a
part, and I paid him with a pair of fciffars. At this houfe were
about twenty perfons collecfted, including the family. We left this
place ; and as I walked along the diftridl, I obferved more weeds
and underwood than in any part of the road which I had paffed :
fome places of confiderablc length had nothing but long overgrown
grafs, which obffrud:ed all pafllxge but by the fea-fide. The houfcs
were thinly fcattered, and as thinly inhabited ; in moft of them they
were building canoes, but none of a large kind. They all had iron
tools; the hatchets were taken off the helves, and fixed as adzes.
I inquired for 2.Jlone hatchet, which will foon'-be a curiofity to them-
felves ; but they had none : alfo how long it took them to build a
canoe, with iron tools ; they anfwered, about one moon. I then afked
them how long they formerly were in doing it with their ftone
hatchets : at this they laugheti heartily, and counted ten moons.
When we had reached nearly oppofite to Bougainville's harbour, the
natives diredled us to a chief's houfe, where we found Inna Madua,
who, fince the death of her hufband, is chief over all Hedeah :
though this was not her dwelling-houfe, fhe neverthelefs affumed the
command, and ordered a dinner inflantly to be dreffed. In the
July.]
TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS.
'93
interim the old chief gave us the name of every matteyna in the
diflridl, from Boo-te-awmoo to the iflhmus, as follows:
ALitteynai.
Rah-ourey
Mattalieyaboo
Kaa-oureyenia
Wattarow
Atta-toutou
Atta-mayhowe
Attetarree
Do.
Atte-hourah
Atte-te-hey
ad Mattaheyaboo
Tcis.
2
I
4
I
I
S
2
2
20
6
120
Alittfeytjjs.
T«j.
Maf/fyftJI,
r«.
Mattrynai.
T«..
Atte-popu-te
3
Nooahiiah
6
3d Mattaheyaboo
6
Tootahrah
2
Toute-tooah
3
3d Ali-hotoo-tcyiia
h 6
Ah-hotoo-tooahnah 2
Aree-tye
3
Wali-tey
4
Ah-hotno-teyiiah
2
2d Tahmatta-
oura 6
Atte-hooiioo
2
Tahmatta-oura
4
Atte-oumah
6
Atte-io-aree
2
Atte-mah
4
Arra-whyiiah
12
4th Mattaheyaboo
2
Arroo-attoniah
3
3d Tahniatta-
3urah 7
O-hoH'pay
4
2d Ah-hotoo-teynah 2
4th do.
7
Atte-towee
4
Oroopah
2
Atte-houah
2
Ottowah
I?
Atte- layreynah
3
Toe-orah-pah
-niooah 9
Ali-how-atouah
6
Atte-eynah
6
47
6
33
67
6
6
282
I20
198
402
198
402
1002
42 matteynas x by 6 r:
252
Men,
women, ,
ind children
1254
This may be thought but a fmall number for fo large a diftridl,
cfpecially when the magnitude of Captain Cook's and Lieutenant
Corner's eftimations is confidered ; but according to the beft of my
judgment, after pafling through it, and paying every attention, I
think even this fmall number exceeds the truth ; and furely it is no
argument in favour of great population, that at this houfe where I
got the account, no more than thirty people fhould be colled:ed at
any time while I ftaid, including Inna Madua's retinue, and thofe
whom eager curiofity brought to fee me.
When we had dined, Peter informed me that it was too late to
proceed, as he knew of no good lodging-houfe but at too great a
diftance ; therefore we ftaid where we were for the night. My bed
and Peter's was laid at one end of the houfe. Inna Madua prefented
me with more cloth for flieeting, and I gave her in return a pair of
fciiTars, a looking-glafs, and fome trifles I had purpofely brought to
c c
FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE
['797-
194
anfwer fuch occafions. In this houfe was an epitome of their general
employments : at one end women were pafting cloth together; fome
men were making fmnet and lines, while fome flept, and others were
drinking ava : this laft they drink in an unfocial manner, by one,
two, or three at a time, and out of a fmall cocoa-nut fliell ;
whereas at the Friendly Iflands, one or two hundred form a ring,
and from a large bowl they flaare nearly all alike; but it feems to be
fo fcarce here, that none except the earees can be flaviflily addided to
it. This evening I learnt that, befides the members of the arreoy
fociety, it is the common pradice among all ranks to flrangle infants
the moment they are born. A perpetrator of this horrid ad: was
among thofe whom curiofity drew to vifit us : fhe was a good-
looking woman, and efteemed by the natives a great beauty, which I
fuppofe to be the inducement that tempted her to murder her child ;
for here the number of women bearing no proportion to the men,
thofe efteemed handfome are courted with great gifts, and get fo ac-
cuftomed to change their hufbands, to go with them from place to
place, and run after the diverfions of the ifland, that rather than be
debarred thefe pleafures, they ftifle a parent's feelings, and murder
their tender offspring. As no odium whatever is attached to this
unnatural deed, many hundreds born into the world are never fuffercd
to fee the light. When either father or mother are difpofed to fave
the child, they fometimes fucceed, but not always ; for if the
woman fays fhe will not rear the child, the man in general fubmits
to her will : on the other hand, when fhe proves humane, and he is
fleady to his cruel purpofe, the infant is often faved, for fhe orders
matters fo that fome neighbours fhall interpofe, and if the child is
not inftantly put to death, they dare not do it afterwards ; but the
mofl infenfible become as fond of their children as any refined people
can be. I fhall only notice farther, that both parties do oftener make up
their minds to fave the male than the female, which partiality accounts
for the difproportion of the fexes, and is none of the leafl caufes of the
thin population; for the men that are not wealthy in cloth, hogs, or
July.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 195
Englifli articles, wherewith to purchafe a wife, muft go without
one; and this leads them to pradlifc the great crime of onanifm to an
excefTive degree, and renders them unfit to cohabit with women j
but all their vices of this nature are too fliocking to be related.
When the arrcoies deftroy their children, they fay it is to retain the
privileges of their fociety : but what excufe can thofe make who are
not of their number? It is faid of Gelon, king of Syracufe, that
having conquered Carthage, he made it the chief article in the treaty
of peace, that they Ihould abolifh the cuftom of facrificing their
children. And while humanity rcfledls and fhudders at the be-
haviour of the Otaheiteans, one can hardly help indulging a wifh that
either the fword of a Gelon, or rather the fpirit of the Prince of
Peace, were applied to oblige them to relinquifli their abominable and
unnatural pracflices.
14th. About fix in the morning w^e arofe, packed up our things,
and proceeded on our journey. Inna Madua accompanied us to her
proper dwelling, which lies near a mile farther on. Here I thought I
got a fight of an European garden ; the plats of ava-ground were laid
out in fuch nice order : each bed formed regular parallelograms,
trenched two feet deep, and difpofed with a great degree of tafte ; the
whole enclofed with a fence of bamboo. Her houfe, w'hich was
full one hundred feet long, flood on the fea fide of the garden. At this
place we parted from her, and walked about two miles along an irre-
gular coaft, where the low land in moft places is very narrow, and hardly
a bread-fruit or cocoa-nut tree to be feen. We then came to another
dangerous cliff called Pah-rah-tou-tea. As we pafTed along the fide
next the fea, the footing was extremely narrow, and the fight below
tremendous. Defcending the oppofitc fi.de, a valley opens, running
between lofty hills, with a triangular piece of low land near a fur-
long in length, and a river of confidcrable depth and breadth. Clofe
to the fea the paffige is narrow ; tliere we forded, and afccndcd a
fteep hill, from the fummit of which we had the choice of two roads ;
the inner one was much out of our way, and b}' the outer we muft
c c 2
,96 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
defcend the cliffs : however, thinking this no worfe than thofe we
had pafll-d already, wc took the latter, but prefently came to a moft
alarming place, about fix yards wide, where there appeared neither
place for hands nor feet. Here I was at firft afraid, and had thoughts
of going back; but with the help of the Otaheiteans, who are ufed
to this work, I got along fafe. Obferving an old man had fol-
lowed us from Inna Madua*s houfe, Peter inquired w hat he wanted ;
he anfwered, that Inna's mother had ordered him to follow, and if I
gave any thing away in the diflrid:, he was to feize it, and take it
to lier.
When we had got within a fliort mile of the ifthmus, in paffing a
tew houfes, an aged woman, mother to the young man who carried
my linen, met us, and, to exprefs her joy at feeing her fon, ftruck
herfelf feveral times on the head with a lliark's tooth, till the blood
flowed plentifully down her breaft and flioulders, whilft the fon
beheld it with entire infenfibility, I was not aware of this ad:ion to
prevent it, but as fhe continued it w ithout mercy on herfelf, I fpoke
to them angrily, and obliged her to defift. The fon feeing that I was
not pleafed with what was done, obferved coolly, that it was the
ciiftom of Otaheite. When we had gone about a furlong farther we
put up for the night, at a houfe which lately belonged to a woman
with whom Peter had lived, but fhe was now dead. She had been
wife to Richard Sinnet, one of the unfortunate mutineers, who was
loft in the Pandora, and by him had two fine girls, who are now
about fix or feven years old ; they are of a fair mulatto complexion,
and very lively and talkative. Since the mother's death Peter has
taken care of them ; they were glad to fee him, and received each a
fmall looking-glafs, as did alfo the woman of the houfe. When we
had refted a few minutes, Peter informed them that fince the fun
was at fuch a height we had not eaten any thing : this being known,
it was impoflfible to behold with indifference the joy which thofe kind
people expreffed on having an opportunity of entertaining me; they
inflantly drelTed a couple of fowls for my dinner, and a pig for the
July.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 197
Otaheiteans and Peter; for he pretended, that, being obhged to com-
ply with fomc of their cuftoms, he durfl not eat in the houfe where 1
was. After enjoying a comfortable meal, as the cool of the evening
by that time drew on, I got Peter, who, as well as mylelf, was
rather tired with the day's walk, to accompany me to the top of one
of the adjacent hills, on each fide of which ran a deep valley. From
the centre hills towards the fea, for a little diflance up, the hills
abounded with cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit, and the more interior
parts with mountain plantain, tarro, and a variety of other things,
which they have recourfe to when the low land cannot fupply all
their wants. Aflcing Peter what reafons they gave for not cultivating
more of thofe articles on the low ground, as it was evident they would
grow as well, or better, there, he faid it was on account of the havoc
made by the arreoies, and thofe who accompany Otoo in his feaftings
lound the ifland ; at which times, though they only ftay two or
three days in a difl:ri<5t, they confume and wantonly deftroy all the
produce, and often the young plants, leaving nothing for the fettled
inhabitants of the place to fubfift on, but what they derive from the
moimtains : on this account they fubmit to the trouble of climbing
almoft inacceflible places, rather than expofe much of the produce of
their labour to thofe privileged robbers. From this hill we alfo had a
view of the coral reefs which lie interfperfed along this coaft, fome of
them a confiderable diftance off ihore : there are feveral openings, and
probably anchorage within moft of them; but I apprehend the
ground muft be rocky, and bad for cables. Refpedling the diftridt
itfelf, from Boo-te-awinoo to the place where I now was, clofe to the
ifthmus, it is little better than a wildernefs of rank weeds and ufelefs
trees, and that even in places where the low land might be rendered
moft fertile and valuable, though it no where exceeds two furlongs in
width.. In fome places where we were obliged to quit the fea-lide,
travelling became exceedingly fatiguing, on account of the long
grafs, weeds, marfli.es, aitd numerous rivulets of water : in others the
jiills project into the fea, and form broken and dangerous precipices.
,^8 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
fome of which I have noticed before. Bcfides this, it merits the nam©
of a defolate diftridt, from the few houfes it contains, and its thin po-
pulation. However, the place where I now was might be deemed
an exception ; it is about a mile long, and a furlong wide ; and is
better furnifhed with houfes, inhabitants, and fruit-trees, than any
place of equal fize in the diftrid:.
When we returned to the houfe we found a fervant whom Pomarre
had fcnt to meet and condud me to the place in Tiaraboo where
himfelf and retinue were preparing for a great feaft ; but as this took
me out of the way of my intended route, I fhould not have confented
to it, had not Peter frequently mentioned the precipices at the eafl
end of the ifland as impafliible by any but the natives ; who, though
even accuftomed to it, were frequently daflied to pieces ; and that,
without running that rifk, the account I wanted could be equally
well ffot from the chiefs of the feveral diftrifts, who would be with
Pomarre on the fouth fide of that peninfula. Therefore I agreed to
accompany the man acrofs the ifthmus next morning.
15th. At daybreak we rofe. Peter then afked me whether I durft
fleep in a houfe where there was a corpfe ; and fhewed me the Ikull of
Richard Sinnet's wife, wrapped in cloth, hanging to the roof of the
houfe. It feems that flie died at Eimeo, and was there put upon a
tupapow till the body was dried ; the head was then cut off, and
brought to this place, where fhe had pofTeffed feveral acres of ground.
Departing from hence, we afcended a hill, moderately high on the
Otaheite fide, and walked about a mile over a fine piece of land,
which flopes gently from the middle clafs of hills to the ifthmus, and
is all along covered with a ftratum of rich brown mould, fitter for
the purpofes of agriculture than any fpot on the ifland : a few trees
are fcattered upon it ; but on large fpaces there is nothing but grafs
and fern. The ifthmus feemed covered with trees quite acrofs ; and
beyond it, on the Tiaraboo fide, the land for three or four miles ap-
peared exaftly like that I was now upon, covered with fern, and
level at top, but broken, or rent as it were, into chafms or deep hoi-
July.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 199
lows, and rifing with a gradual afcent towards the lofty mountains
wliich occupy the middle and eaftern divifions of Tiaraboo. At the
fouth fide of the iflhmus, where we dcfccnded to crofs, a cove about
fixty yards wide, and of depth fufficicnt to admit a fiiip, runs clofe
up to the low neck : it would be an excellent place for a fhip to moor
in, if a fafe palTage could be found between the large flakes of coral
which lie without it ; and I do not think this impoffible, though,
except commerce were brought thither, it would be unneceiTary,
Befldes this cove, we crofTcd two more fhallow ones, and then
entered the firft diftrid: of Tiaraboo, called Toa-howtow. Here the
low ground is fo marfliy, that at every flep we fimk almoft knee-deep.
It is alfo covered with underwood, but abounding in bread-fruit and
cocoa-nuts. Farther eaflward the ground is more dry and hard ; and
we fell in with a few houfes, where canoes were building, and the
women beating cloth : they informed us that the di{l:ri(fl contained
one matteyna and thirteen tees, which make eighty-four inhabitants.
The next diftrid: is Wyoo-roo ; the chief's name Vce-vce Roo-rah :
it has fix matteynas, containing forty tees, which make two hundred
and feventy-fix inhabitants j and with refpedl to the foil, fruits, &c.
is exadlly like Toa-howtow : the low land in both is fcarce a furlong
wide, and the coaft waving.
It now began raining hard, which obliged us to flop where was
a chief who knew Peter. His canoe was hauled upon the beach,
and the little houfe taken off it for him and his wife to fleep in. And
this is their common pradlice; fo that wherever they land, if in a
large canoe, they always have a houfe in readinefs. While we fat
under an adjoining Ihed, and the chief and I were exchanging pre-
fents, a boy picked my pocket, but, finding himfelf difcovercd, he
dropt the booty ; however, the chief was fo enraged, that he imme-
diately went in purfuit of the boy, and intended to punilh him fcverely
if he caught him.
The rain fubfiding, we fet off again for Mattahwey, which was
the next diflrid:, and where Pomarre was with his retinue. On oxir
200
FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
way we were met by the young king, fon of Pomarrc, and his
betrothed wife, both carried upon men's fl-ioulders ; he aflced for an
axe, fciiliirs, &c. but I had none to fpare, therefore defired him to
fo to the pahie (fliip), ^"d they fliould be given him. He alfo afked
Peter feveral queftions concerning the places and people he had feen
on his voyage with us. At laft we reached the head-quarters, which
were no more than a few canoe-houfes and temporary fheds, the beft
of which was occupied by Pomarre; and to it I was conduced. As
for himfelf, they fiiid he was at a houfe farther on, bufied with his
fervants in preparing cloth, but that a meffenger was gone to inform
him of my arrival. Accordingly he came in a fliort time, ex-
prefTed much joy on feeing me, and faluted nofes ; he alfo inquired
for the captain, and moft on board. When I afked him his reafons
for not going to Matavai, he anfwered, that at prefent he could not
poffibly go, it being a very bufy time with him, having to colledl
canoes, cloth, hogs, &c. to give away among the different chiefs and
arreoies, who would attend him to the great feafl at Pappara, which
was to take place in a few days, and for which all the ifland was
looking up to him. This excufe I had reafon to believe, for public
care feemed engraven on his countenance. However, as he could
not go himfelf, he had fent his prime minifler Iddeah ) who, I told
him, would not receive fo many things as if he had gone himfelf.
He faid, he did not mind the things fo much as the captain's friend-
ftiip.
I had defired Peter, that if a mawhoo came in 6ur way, he fhould
point him out ; and here there happened to be one in Pomarre 's
train. He was dreffed like a woman, and mimicked the voice and
every peculiarity of the fex. I afked Pomarre what he was, who
anfwered, " Taata, mawhoo," that is, a man, a mawhoo. As I fixed
my eyes upon the fellow, he hid his face : this I at firft conflrued
into Ihame, but found it afterwards to be a womanifh trick.
Thefe mawhoos chufe this vile way of life when young : putting
en the drefs of a woman, they follow the fame employments, are
Jlly.] to the SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS, aoi
under the fame prohibitions with refpedt to food, &c. and feck tlic
courtfliip of men the fame as women do, nay, are more jealous of
the men who cohabit with them, and ahvays refufe to flcep with
women. We are obhged here to draw a veil over other pradticcs too
horrible to mention. Thefc mawhoos, being only fix or eight m
number, are kept by the principal chiefs. So depraved are thcfc
poor heathens, that even their women do not dcfpife thofe fellows,
but form friendflaips with them. This one was tayo to Iddeah.
And here we are furnifhed with another impediment to population,
and may afk how fuch a people can pofTibly have a numerous pro-
geny.
At this place moft of the chiefs of Tiaraboo were aflemblcd ; their
canoes were hauled upon-the beach, and before their huts vaft quan-
tities of provifions were hung upon flakes driven into the ground ;
and more were arriving from the neighbouring diftrids : all which
was perhaps no faint image of the ancient Hellcfpont and Grecian
camp.
From the different chiefs I got an account of Tiaraboo, as follows :
D D
202
FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE
[•797.
Xumb.
Names of Diftrias.
Names ol" Chiefs.
Matt.
Tees.
13
ofSouIs.
84
1 Toa-how-towe
:}
1
Vee-ve-roo-rah /
I
2 Wyoo-roo .
6
40
276 ;
3 Maiiahwey
Mooee
6
39
270 ;
4 Wy-you-teah
5 Otoo-boo
'}
Pomarre
15
137
912
6 Taa-hapeah
^
7 Tee-row-ouah
8 Popootah
I
Iddeah
7
119
756
g Wy-yote
lO Bo-be-ourooah
,
T, rOne of thefe is on^
,1 Eree-meoo f each f.de of the i
12 2d Eree-meoo \ p,,,,di„g /
Tee-ye-a
7
51
348
13 Havv-bouah . . . .■\
14 Atte-toutou . . . . >
Tee-teah-manoowah
3
65
408
15 Orrahayroo . . . .J
16 Attah-roah — is the name of the dif->
tri£l and valley. The point is V-
Manne Manne
2
16
108
called Ohaitapeha . . .J
17 Owahie — A fmall place in the weft")
part of the above bay . . J
Ditto
""■"
2
12
18 Ah-hoo-e |
r
Pomarre and Taata \
Douah-he J
Mare - taata - hah ~)
(fon of Towha) >
and Houatooah J
2
3+
216
I Ah-noohe J
4
47
306
I
20 Owaheite
Ore-a-\vhy
16
36
' 312
21 Tirra-wow is not inhabited.
Men, women, and children in '
Tiara
boo, 4008
All the eaft part of Tiaraboo confills of high rugged mountains,
which run to the fea-fide, and form fteep cliffs that are extremely-
dangerous to pafs : on this account the low land is narrow, and diftri-
buted partially ; but from Ohaitapeha bay, on the north fide, and
from oppofite to it on the fouth fide, down towards the ifthmus, it runs
from half a furlong to a whole one in width, and where valleys are, it
is in confequence wider. There were not many cotton-trees to be feen,
and thofe few of no value : indeed, no part of this peninfula is com-
parable to the diftrids of Matavai, Oparre, and Attahooroo, in the
larger peninfula. ■
July.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 203
At nkht I Ipread my bed in the fame houfe where Peter, Pomarre,
and feveral others lay; but httle reft could be had, as one or other
was talking all the night, Pomarre alkcd Peter many fhrewd quef-
tions concerning the places and things he had feen on the voyage,
and more particularly about the natives of Tongataboo, as the red
feathers, and various manufaftures from thence, have given them a
high idea of that people. Nothing grows on Otahcite but what they
mentioned, to know if they had the fame ; and whether they had
good land, good canoes, and fine women. They alfo inquired much
about the Marquefas, and fpoke of the people there as being as far
inferior to themfelves in civilization as they really are to Europeans.
However, they appeared highly delighted with the relation Peter gave
them of thefe countries : but when he fpoke of the wonderful things
of Europe, they at firft expreffed furprife ; but not being able to form
conceptions of the things he related, their pleafure quickly flackened :
whereas the people of the Friendly Iflands and Marquefas are in almoft
all things fimilar to themfelves ; alike in perfon, manners, and drefs ;
are tattoued, have canoes, bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and plantains, as
well as they ; and without thefe articles they admit of no country to
be really valuable, though they do not deny our fupcriority in every
thing elfe. At this time Pomarre and his retinue particularly regretted
their want of Ihips, and knowledge to condud them to foreign coun-
tries ; and, addreffing himfclf to me, faid, in a tone of concern, that
they were able to go no further than Ulietea or Huaheine ; and that
at the rifk of being driven they knew not whither, to perilh : whereas
we could fail for many moons, and in the darkeft nights and ftrongeft
gales, and after all could come exadlly to Otaheite, Thefe were the
very ideas he expreffed. In anfwer to which, I told him, that we
once were in the fame predicament, and knew nothing ; but that good
men brought the fpcaking paper into our country, and taught us to
underftand it, by means of which we learnt to know the true God,
to build and condud: fhips, and to make axes, knives, fciOars, and
the various things which he faw we polTcflld : alfo that his tayo
D D a
204 FIRST INIISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
Captain Cook had told the earees of Pretane, that neither the king
of Otaheite nor his people underllood the fpeaking paper, nor how to
do thefe things. Therefore they had, out of real regard for him, fent
the good men at Matavai, to teach him, his children, and people, as
we ourfelves were taught ; that, as chief of the ifland and regent for
his fon, it behoved him to fend his children and the natives to attend
to their inftrudions ; for, if they negleded the prefent opportunity,
no more good men would come to them, but they would remain in
ignorance for ever.
I believe he paid as much attention to this as lay in his power, and
faid it was my ty (good), and fo went to fleep.
16th. In the morning it rained very hard, which confined us to
our quarters till nine o'clock, when the chief and all his fervants fet
off to work at the cloth ; and as I intended to reft all this day, I fol-
lowed foon after, and found them bufied on large pieces of cloth, about
thirty yards long, and four broad ; they had them ftretched along the
ground, and doubling each, by laying others upon them, cemented
them with a pafte. Pomarre was as bufy as any. Here I faw the
mawhoo alfo, who wrought with equal dexterity as the women.
At a proper time of day a fine roaft pig was brought for dinner,
part of which was given me, the reft went to the chief ; but I ob-
ferved thofe around him took fo large a fliare, that himfelf made but
a fcanty dinner : and this may be the reafon why his head man
brought vid:uals in the dark, on the two nights I ftaid there. It feemed
that the hogs were not plentiful here, or they were keeping them till
the feaft.
17th. I rofe to take leave of Pomarre, and informed him of my
intention to return to the ftiip by the fouth fide of Otaheite nooe,
and would therefore thank him for the ufe of a canoe. He imme-
diately ordered one of the beft fingle ones, which Peter was to keep
after our arrival at Matavai : he alfo put in it two large hogs, and
fent a man to Wyere (the firft diftridl we fhould land at) to prepare
another. I had given him a pair of fciflars and what I could fpare :
JuLV.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 205
and now he begged a piece of cloth, which the chief gave me where
we flopped on account of the rain ; having got it, he caft his eye
on what I ufed as a bed, as if defirous of that alfo : but obfcrving
his difpofition began to work, I bad him farewell, not without fechng
on the occafion. He was much affedcd, and faid, if pofTible he
would come and fee the captain, and defired me to fpeak a good word
for Iddeah, that fhe might receive opys (axes), paoutics (fciflius), &c.
Leaving this place we paddled to the weftward, and having a
ftrong current in our favour were foon paft the ifthmus, and landed
in the firil diftrid, called Wyere, over which Maahehanoo (a woman)
prefides as chief: to her the fon of Towha is betrothed : they are
both young, perhaps fifteen years old ; he has the moft lively, piercing
countenance of any youth I faw.
A perfon named Tootahah, who is alfo defcended from the earees,
lived here as guardian to Towha and Maahehanoo ; he feemed well
acquainted with many of our cuftoms, and could fpeak feveral Englifli
words. Previous to bringing a young hog which they had pre-
pared for dinner, Tootahah drove four flakes in the ground, and
making a table of boards upon them, he fpread a piece of clean
cloth, placed an Englifh plate before me, and tried to apologize
for not having a knife and fork, and fuch things as he knew we had
on board. Thus, for the firil: time, I dined in ftyle among them.
After dinner they put a pig into the canoe, agreeably to the order of
Pomarre, and made fomc other prefents, which I repaid as well as
I could, and left them.
This is a very good diflridt ; the low land is of various breadths,
as twenty yards, a furlong, and in fome places half a mile. Next
to it are hills moderately high, forming valleys of fmall extent ; and
beyond are the lofty craggy mountains, which are covered with
trees to the fummit. The diflrid: weflward of this is called Wyoo-
reede, and anfwers the fame defcription : the hill which feparates
them is called Rooamo, where the land bends in ; and a little further
a point runs off, and a quarter of a mile without it is the fmall ifland
io6
FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE
[1797-
Otcarrawah. Another fmall iflet lies about a mile further along the
coaft, called Tahmow.
As it now began to rain hard, we landed to take fhelter in the
houfes, which are here, as in other places, but thinly fcattered : when
it cleared up, Peter and I walked along the beach, while the toutous
paddled the canoe. Foot-paths interfeded the low ground, but it
was bad walking on them, on account of the weeds and long grafs
being wet with the rain ; and the trees in fome places Handing clofe
to the fea, obftrudlcd the way by the beach, and forced us again into
the canoe; and juft as it was dark we reached Attemonoo, a fmall
diftridl fituate between Wyooreede and Pappara, and there hauled
up the canoe. We thence walked to Temarre's houfe at Pappara, and
found him quite intoxicated with ava. When they had brought
lights I laid my bed down, and being tired with the fatigues of the
day, went immediately to reft.
1 8th. Temarre had rifen early, and gone to a place considerably
to the weftward, to worlhip at a moral he had there, but left word
to drefs a pig for me. In the interim we applied to an intelligent
elderly chief f jr the number of matteynas and tees which we had
palTed, who counted them as follows, viz.
Wyere
Wyooreede
Attemonoo
Matt.
13
Pappara 1 7
Aha-aheinah 8
Tees.
42
161
24
157
105
Inhabitants
444
1044
156
1044
678
}
Chiefs.
Maahehanoo.
Tayredhy, wife of Te-
marre.
Temarre. The above
are alfo under him,
and he is under Po-
marre, or Otoo.
After waiting till near eleven o'clock for breakfaft, I found, on
enquiry, that the hog they were dreffing was fo large as to require
three hours more to do it fufficiently j therefore I was obliged to
content myfelf without breakfaft, and had but a faint hope of a
dinner without Haying all day for it.
July.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 207
The great moral of Oberea ftands on a point a little to the caft-
ward : thither I went, to have a view of (o great a curiofity. Otoo
has one of his reprefentative hoiifes here; and in pafTing it, fome of
his fervants, judging whither I was going, followed me, and were
very afhduous in explaining every thing to me. This morai is an
enormous pile of ftone-work, in form of a pyramid, on a paralle-
logram area; it has a flight of ten fleps quite round it, the firft of
which, from the ground, is fix feet high, the reft about five feet;
it is in length, at the bafe, two hundred and feventy feet, width at
ditto ninety-four feet ; at the top it is one hundred and eighty feet
long, and about fix wide : the fteps are compofcd partly of regular
rows of fquared coral ftones about eighteen inches high, and partly
with blueifh-coloured pebble ftones nearly quite round, of a hard
texture, all about fix inches diameter, and in their natural unhewn
ftate : this is the outfide. The infide, that is to fay, what compofes
the folid mafs (for it has no hollow fpace), is compofed of ftones of
various kinds and fhapes. It is a wonderful ftrudlure ; and it muft
have coft them immenfe time and pains to bring fuch a quantity of
ftones together, and particularly to fquare the coral oi the fteps with
the tools they had when it was raifed ; for it was before iron came
among them : and as they were ignorant of mortar, or cement, it
required all the care they have taken to fit the ftones regularly to
each other, that it might ftand. When Sir Jofeph Banks faw this
place, there was on the centre of the fummit a reprefentation of a
bird carved in wood, and clofe by it the figure of a fifh carved in
ftone ; but both are now gone, and the ftones of the upper fteps
are in many places fallen : the walls of the court have alfo gone
much to ruin, and the flat pavement is only in fome places dilcern-
ible. The above gentleman, fpeaking of this court, fays, " the py-
'* ramid conftitutes one fide of a court, or fquare, the fides of '
•• which were nearly equal ; and the whole was walled in and
'* paved with flat ftones : notwithftanding which pavement, feveral
" plantains and trees, which the natives call etoa, grew within the
2o8 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
" enclofiire." At prefeiit there is within this fquare a houfe, called
the houfe of the Eatooa, in which a man conftantly refides. Sir
Jofepli further fays, " that at a fmall diflance to the weftward of
•' this edifice was another paved fquare, that contained feveral fmall
*' flages, called ewattas by the natives, which appeared to be altars
" whereon they placed the offerings to their gods ;" and that he af-
terwards faw whole hogs placed upon thefe flages or altars. My
guide led me to this fpot, which appears alfo to have gone much to
ruin : he fliewed me the altar, which is a heap of flones, and how
they lay their offering upon it ; he then went a few yards back, and
laying hold of an upright ftone, like a grave-ftone, he knelt with
one knee, and looking upwards, began to call on the Eatooa, by
crying, " Whooo, whooo;" and by afterwards making a whift-
ling noife, intimated it to be the way in which the Eatdoa anfwered
them.
The grand moral formerly belonged to Oammo and Oberea, then
to their defcendant Temarre, and now, flnce the conqueft, to Otoo.
It was paft noon when I got back to the houfe, and Temarre had
not returned from his worflaip ; and, worfe than'that, there was no
profpedt of any thing to eat : therefore I propofed to fet off, when
his wife entreated me to flay a while longer. This being com-
plied with, they brought the hog fmoking hot, but nearly raw,
though it mufl have been covered up at leaft four hours, which
was owing to its fize, being large enough to ferve forty men. Thus
both I and my companions fuffered by the excefTive kindnefs of our
hofl.
When we had taken our leave, and walked about a mile along the
beach, we met Temarre on his -way home, ; and when Peter told
him that we had waited purpofely for him, he feemed much afraid
left I fhould be angry, and afl^ed if I was not. On fatisfying him
that I was not, he then inquired into the caufe of our vifit to Po-
marre, in a way that befpokc jealoufy, envy, and fear of that chief.
After a little converfation we parted. Temarre is fuppofed to be
July.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 209
pofTefled of the Eatooa, and, in conformity to that fuppofition, fpeaks
' in fuch a way that fcarccly any one can undcrftand him. This at firft
made me think that he ufed that peculiar language faid to be fpoken
by the priefts ; but both the Swedes infill: that the pricfls know no
other than the common language, and can always be underftood,
except when, for the fake of myfterioufnefs, they utter their i'pccches
in a finging tone ; and that even the young girls can make their
fongs equally unintelligible. It is alfo faid of this chief, that he
is now meditating revenge on Pomarre, on account of the death of
his father and his own defeat ; and in hope of obtaining fuccefs he
has chofen Mr. Main for his tayo, whom he has heard fpoken of as
a military man, and to whom he has made feveral great prefents.
We flopped at Pappara for the night in the houfe of my tayo Wy-
reede : as I had not fecn her fince my late arrival, flie exprefled much
joy on the occafion, ordered a pig to be inftantly drefled, and made
me a prefent of feveral things; among others, a quantity of human
hair made into fine finnet. Here were a number of arreoies with
their feparate wives, who, by the attachment they fliewed for their
hufbands, feemed to difcountenance the alTertion of promifcuous con-
nexion, with which they are charged. Their great numbers maeie
the houfe, which was one hundred and forty feet long, appear like a
little- village, where each claimed the place on which his mat was
fpread; and almoft all were employed in making mats, finnet, &c. As
foon as it was dark they brought lights, and danced and fung till
near midnight, and perhaps would have continued all the night, had
I not begged my tayo to caufe them to defill: ; for the drums appear
not to difturb their fteep ; but, when tired with dancing, they lie down,
and a frefli party rifes to the fport : and in this manner the arreoies
ufually fpcnd their nights, and thus they train the youths to the fame
irregular living.
19th. Tiie morning being fine and clear, we walked to the end of
the diftricft, and crofiing a little cove, entered on Ahaheinah. The
point which, with the cove, fcparates the two dill:ridts, is called
E E
2,0 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
Abooroo. Pappara is a diftrid: of the middling clafs ; for extent of
low land and fertility it is better than the north-eaftern diftrids, or
thofe of Tiaraboo ; but inferior to thofe I afterwards came to, viz.
Attahooroo and Oparre : however, the low land feems not to be two
furlongs in width in any place. Ahaheinah has a ftraight coafl: ; in
feveral parts the hills projed: to the fea, leaving a narrow beach or
foot-path at their bafe, and where there is low land it is no where
above a hundred yards wide. A hill called Weypah-toto feparates it
from Mahraw, a fmall divifion of Attahooroo : here Captain Wea-
thcrhcad landed in his boats after the lofs of the Matilda, and had
his money and clothes taken from him by the natives.
Attahooroo is divided into two or three departments, over which
chiefs fubordinate to Temarre prefide. In the account given me they
divided it only into two parts, of which the fouth-eafl contains fifteen
matteynas and one hundred and fifty tees, and the north part ten mat-
teynas and ninety-three tees, including the valleys. Here the fhore
is waving, and forms a fegment of a circle as it bends round to
Tettaha. The reef lies a confiderable way off, and within it the
water is fmooth and fhallow, and the bottom a fine white fand inter-
fperfed with beautiful coral, which makes the rowing over it delight-
ful. Here the ifland puts on its moft beautiful appearance. A
large border of low ground is covered with cocoa, palms, and
bread-fruit. Extenfive valleys run confiderably in-land, and the fides
of the hills, which form them, are covered with fruit-trees, and
their tops with grafs. The lofty mountains in the higher region are
alio covered with trees, or broken into awful precipices ; and by their
various fliapes and diftances, and the clouds, which hover over them
all the day, add a fublime grandeur to the beauty of the fcene below.
We landed at a chief's houfe oppofite the great valley, and before
dinner fet off with the chief to fee a morai, where it was faid the
ark of the Eatooa was depofited, and which had been conjedured by
fome vifitors to bear a fimilitude in form to the ark of the covenant.
Though it was about noon, in the road we went we felt little of the
July.] TO fllE SOUTH-SEA. ISLANDS. 2n
heat of the fun : lofty bread-fruit trees afforded their pleafant fliadc ;
and, as there was but Httle underwood, we felt no annoyance, except
from a few flies. Turmeric and ginger abounded, alfo the wild
cotton tree. The morai ftands on the north fide of the valley, about
a mile or more from the beach: it is erected on level ground, enclofcd
with a fquare w^ooden fence, each fide of which may mcafure thirty
or forty yards. About one half of the platform next the interior fide
of the fquare is paved, and on this pavement, nearly in the middle,
there ftands an altar upon fixteen wooden pillars, each eight feet high;
it is forty feet long and feven feet wide : on the top of the pillars the
platform for the offerings is laid, with thick matting upon it, which
overhanging each fide, forms a deep fringe all around it. Upon this
matting are offerings of whole hogs, turtle, large fifli, plantains,
young cocoa-nuts, &c. the whole in a ftate of putrefadlion, which
fends an offenfive fmell all round the place. A large fpace on one
fide of the fence was broken down, and a heap of rough ftones laid
in the gap : upon thefe fi:ones, and in a line with the fence, were placed
what they call tees j thefe were boards from fix to feven feet high,
cut into various fliapes. At a corner near this fi:ood a houfe and
two fheds, where men conffantly attended. We entered the houfe,
and found at one end the little houfe, or ark of the Eatooa ; it was made
exaftly like thofe they fet on their canoes, but fmallcr, being
about four feet long, and three in height and breadth. As it
contained nothing but a few pieces of cloth, I inquired where they
had hid the Eatooa : they anfwered, that it had been taken in the
morning to a fmall morai near the water-fide, but that they would
immediately bring it, which they did in about half an hour. Though
I had not viewed this place without feeling for the poor creatures,
yet when they laid their Eatooa on the ground I could hardly reftrain
a laugh. It was in fliape exadlly like a failor's hammock laflied up,
and compofed of two parts, the larger one jufl: the fize of the houfe,
and the leffer, which was laflied upon it, was about half that fize :
at the ends were faflened little bunches of red and yellow feathers,'
E E 2
212 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
the oflferings of the wealthy. They feeing me fmile, laughed heartily
thcmfclves, but feemingly only to picafc me; for it was from no idea
of the infignificance of their Eat5oa. I told them it was not, could
not be a god, becaufe it was nothing but the cloth and finnet which
thcmfelvfS had made, and could no j-nore hear, fpeak, nor do them
good or harm, than could the cloth they wore. At this they feemed
rather perplexed, but ftill affirmed that it was a great Eat5oa ; and
when he was angry their trees bore no bread-fruit, and many ills
came upon them ; but not a word in reference to a future flate. I
wanted much to fee what was in the infide ; but they faid, none but
Manne Manne and a few more durft open it. However, they told
Peter that it contained nothing but red feathers, a young plantain,
and a bunch of young cocoa-nuts before they break the leaf. Several
bread-fruit and etoa trees ftand within the fame fquare.
On our way back we called to fee the body of Orepiah, as pre-
fervcd in a tupapow : he had not been many months dead, and was
now in a perfectly dry Hate, The man to whom the performance of
this operation was entrufted lived cloie by, and came near when he
faw us. He feemed quite willing to oblige me; and afked if I
would like to fee the body unfhrouded ; for, as it lay, nothing could be
feen but the feet. Anfwering in the affirmative, he drew it out
upon the uncovered ftage, and took feveral wrappers of cloth off
it ; and, laughing all the while, placed the corpfe in a fitting
pofture. The body had been opened, but the ikin every where elfe
was unbroken, and, adhering clofe to the bones, it appeared like a
Skeleton covered with oil-cloth. It had little or no fmell, and would,
notwithftanding the heat of the climate, remain fo preferved a con-
fiderable time. The method they take for this is, to clear the body
of the entrails, brain, &c. ; then wafhing it well, they rub it daily
outfide and in with cocoa-nut oil, till the flefli is quite dried up ;
after which they leave it to the all-deftroying hand of Time. This
tupapow was conftruded by driving four long flakes in the ground,
about fix feet afunder, lengthwife, and four in breadth : befides thefe.
July.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 213
two others, not (o long by three feet, are driven on a hne, and fix
feet from the former four : a ftage is then made at the height of the
fliorteft two, and the corpfe being laid at one end, a thatched roof
is raifcd iipoa the four higheft flakes, to flielter it from the
rain j the vacant part of the flage is to pull it upon, either for
rubbing with the oil, or exhibiting it to tlic friends and relations of
the deceafed. On the adjoining trees, plantains and bread-fruit hung
for the ufe of the dead. I aftced them, where they thought his fpirit,
or thinking part, had gone ? At this they fmiled, and fiid, " Harre
" po," that is, " Gone to the night."
A little before dark we reached the further end of Attahooroo^
and put up at a little place which Manne Manne had given to Peter,
who ordered what he pleafed, and had it immediately; and here
we left the canoe, as it blew too frelli to row it againft the eafterly
wind. In the morning we rofe early: a couple of fowls were ready
drefled, on which we breakfafted, and fet off with a hope of reaching
the fliip, if nothing occurred to prevent it.
We entered Tettaha by afcending a hill called Opeyhowe. The
diftrid; almofl; throughont is hilly, affording but little low land ;
neverthelefs it is well inhabited, which may be owing to its fituation,
lying between the two befl difl:ri(5ts on the ifland ; though I ap-
prehend even its own produce is fuflicient for the people who live
upon it. It has tw^elve matteynas and one hundred and thirty tees.
Pomarre is the chief. The befl grove of cocoa-nut trees here-
abouts, and a great number of bread-fruit, are laid to have been
planted by him and Iddeah when they were young. We palTed one
fpot where Pomarre had lately a houfe, which contained a vaft
quantity of his flores, and had been malicioufly fet on fire and burnt
to the ground. At a place called Weyto-weyte, which terminates
the diftrid, there is a houfe three hundred and ninety-feven feet in
length, and forty-eight wide : twenty wooden pillars, each twenty-
one feet high, fupport the middle of the roof; and one hundred-and
twenty-four, each ten feet high, fupport the fides or eaves of the
214
FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE
['797-
roof: the rafters upon which the roof is laid are about fix inches
thick, and placed twenty inches apart : a wooden wall, or fence,
enclofcs the wiiole. ' Here, it is faid, they on great occafions hold
fcafts for days together, when they almofi: deftroy all the hogs on the
illand. The next diftrid: is Oparre, which is well ftored with pro-
vifions and inhabitants, having fixtcen matteynas and one hundred
and ninety-nine tees, including two valleys. It has alfo a morai, but
it is faid to be inferior to that in Attahooroo j therefore, as it rained,
I did not go to fee it. Being forced to take flielter in a houfe, I faw
there a man, one of whofe legs was fwelled to a fize little lefs than a
man's body ; the other leg was of its natural fize, and the perfon
cheerful, and bufied in making a mat. One of Otoo's boat-houfes
was adjoining ; it contained a war canoe fixty feet long, which is a
little larger than that at Otyearee; and thefe two, and one from
Ulietea of a different conftrudion, were the only large ones I faw in
the courfe of my journey, though I faw feveral of a middling fize,
yet not fo many as I expecfled.
The lafl difficulty was to get over Taharray, or One Tree hill, as
the rain had made the afcent very flippery. From thence we w^alked
along the beach to the miffionary houfe, and got our clofing account
from Pyteah. Matavai has twenty-feven matteynas and one hun-
dred and ten tees, which makes eight hundred and twenty-two in-
habitants. Therefore the population is as follows ;
July.]
TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS.
^'5
Diftrifls.
3
4
5
6
7
Wi.yripoo
Wl)ap;awno
Wharoomy
Hewow .
Hahbahboonea
Honoowhyah
Nahnu Nahnoo
8 Ot-yayree
9 Wha-ah-heinah
10 Hedeah
1 1 Part of Terrawow on this
the ifthmus uninhabited.
12 Wy-eree
13 Wyooreede
14 Attemonoo
15 Pappara
16 Ahaheinah
17 Attahooroo
18 Tettaha .
19 Oparre .
20 Matavai
fide
Prcfiding Chiefs.
Inna Madua
Wytouah
Wyreede Aowh
Manne Manne
Otoo . .
Ditto
Pomarre
Noe Noe
Roorah and three more
Inna Madua . ,
Maahe-hanoo (female)
Tayreede (wife of Temarre)
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto :
Ditto
Pomarre
Ditto
Miffionaries
Matt.
Tecs.
4
6
28
238
I
9
2
ji
I
8
3
28
3
18
2
22
4
53
42
167
32
42
»3
161
2
24
'Z
157
8
105
25
243
12
130
lb
199
27
no
Total of men, women, and children, in Otaheite
Ditto in Tiaraboo ....
Total on the whole ifland
Numb.
of 5c)uls
264
1596
60
78
54
186
126
144
342
1254
444
1044
156
1044
678
1608
852
1290
822
12,042
4,008
16,050
.,6 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
CHAPTER XIV.
TranfaElions at Otaheite till their Departure,
J. HE intention of writing thefe pages being chiefly to preferve the
circumftances of a voyage which from its nature and objed: is in-
terefting to many, I fliall with this view notice what occurrences
pafTed at the fliip during my abfence, alfo in the fubfequent days of
our ftay ; and then take' leave of Otaheite, without faying more on
their cuftoms and manners than what lies interfperfed in the journal
already detailed, as all former navigators have enlarged on this fub-
je<fl ; and if errors can now be corredled, it will .certainly be beil
done from the letters of the miffionaries, whofe refidence among the
natives for five rnonths gave them greatly the advantage over us at
the fhip.
July 1 2th. It being the Rev. Mr. Lewis's turn to attend the boat
employed in landing the goods, he expreffed a fear that the divifion
of them, after the departure of the fliip, would occafion fome
uneafinefs. In the courfe of the day Mr. Cover and Henry waited
upon the captain, and fpoke to the fame effed:, giving it as their
opinion, that, to prevent any thing difagreeable happening, the moft
prudent way would be for them to make a divifion immediately ; but
this being only a propofal, the adoption of which the captain left en-
tirely to themfelves, it was no more fpoken of. Mrs. Hodges and
Mrs. Henry alfo vifited us to-day ; and in the evening they all went
on fliore in the pinnace. Landed the goods, and received from our
friends the natives a plentiful fupply of fruit, &c.
13th. To-day the captain and fix of the mifi!ionaries examined
the diflria: of Matavai for the purpofe of finding the mofk eligible
July.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 2,7
fpot on which to build a houfe ; but as there were feveral equally
eligible, no preference was given as yet to any.
14th. The weather I'erencand plcafant. Information was brought
to the fhip, that the young king had come to Matavai ; but a report
fpreading that he had facrificed a man, the miflionaries exprcfled their
marked difapprobation of the horrid adl, which fo terrified him, that
he was fetting off for Pappara, when the captain landed, and flopped
him as he and his queen ran along the beach. On being afl<.ed why
he was going away fo foon, he anfwered, that, as the mifHonaries
were angry, he fuppofed the captain was fo too. The captain told
him that it would be very wrong to facrifice a man : he denied the
fad:. The captain entreated him to commit no fuch cruelty, and be-
fought him to return, promifing that he would fend him a canoe,
which he had brought purpofely from Tongataboo. This both recon-
ciled and pleafed him : he accordingly took up his refidencc in
Matavai. Had he gone off in fear, there was no knowing what
the confequences might "be, as he had only to lay the rahooe on the
diflridls, to cut off all our fupplies j a circumftance which, though
not experienced by us, has been feverely felt by fome of their vifitors.
15th. Pleafant weather. The captain and the four appointed
miflionaries employed in dividing the goods ; the feamen hoifling out
of the hold, and putting the Otaheitean divifion into the brethren's
boat. In the forenoon Otoo and his wife came alongfide; the
Friendly Ifland canoe was given to him,, and after he had furveyed it
near two hours, he got into it, and went on fhore fcemingly much
pleafed. About four in the afternoon, Sam (the little cabin-boy)
ran from the fhip, fuppofed to have gone out at the cabin- window.
This boy being of a dwarfifh fize, was apprehenfive of falling into
want in his own country ; therefore he preferred fettling where
nakednefs was no hardfhip, and the vegetable diet at leafl of the
ifland could always be procured at eafe. He left behind him a few
incoherent lines mentioning his defign, wherein helikewife fliys, that
r F
2,8 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
if he can do the miflionaries no good, he will do them no harm.
About the fixme time the captain had his dre{Iing-box with all his
fliavino- iitenfils ftolen out of the cabin, and at firft fuppofed the boy
concerned in the theft, but it afterwards proved he was innocent.
Thermometer 71°. Received from Mawroa, and his wife Wyreede
Aovvh, two fmall pigs, with fruit, &c. alfo prefents from feveral
others.
1 6th. The day fine and pleafant. Mr. JefFerfon and Eyre chap-
lains for the day on board ; the former in the forenoon, the latter in
the afternoon.
17th. Fine weather. Landed fome goods, and received by the
return of the flat-bottomed boat two loads of ftone ballafl:. Iddeah
having come to Matavai, fent to the fhip to know whether the cap-
tain was angry with her. The meflenger was told that he was not ;
and as a token thereof, a plantain leaf was fent her. She then came
on board, bringing with her two large hogs and two bundles of
cloth : one of each was her own prefent, the other that of Pomarre.
When feated in the cabin, flie was afked the reafon why flie killed
her child : in anfwer to which Ihe faid, that the man with whom
fhe cohabited was a low man; had the child been Pomarre's, flie
would have fpared it ; but fince it was the cuftom of the earees
to murder all bafe-born children, fhe had only adled agreeably thereto.
The father of the child was fitting by her, without feeming in the
leaft angry; however, herfelf feemed rather hurt at the home
queflions that were put to her, and the converfation was turned.
She then informed the captain of the reafons of Pomarre's abfence,
which being abfolutely neceffary, he had fent her to fee that his
friend the captain wanted for nothing the ifland could afford;
though, perhaps, the truer reafon was, that he might lofe nothing
by his abfence that could be got from the fhip. When flie had re-
ceived feveral prefents, the evening drawing on, flie fet off to fee her
fon Otoo, but was hardly gone when he made his appearance in a
July.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 219
large double canoe, whooping and hallooing to the feamen by name,
and after playing a number of foolifla tricks, fet off to the Ihore.
Thermometer 71°.
1 8th. The weather pleafant. No natives on board, or canoes about
the iliip ; the reafon of which novelty we fuppofe to be fome di-
verfions given by Iddeah. Landed fome goods, and received two
boat-loads of ftone ballaft, Docflor Gillham was in the boat to-day,
and informed the captain of his defire to return with him. In the
afternoon one of the natives brought back the boy Sam, and received
for this fervice anew fliirt; Mrs. Hodges accompanied them, to plead
for the fugitive. The carpenter employed calking the fliip's top-
fides, which the powerful effc(5l of the tropical climate had rendered
leaky. Thermometer 72°.
19th. The weather fqually, with rain. The young king (Otoo)
fent a prefent of two hogs and fome cloth. One of his I'ervants alfo
brought the captain's drefling-box ; they had traced the thief to
Oparre, where they found the box complete, but the offender had
efcaped to the mountains. By the meffenger an axe was fent to Otoo.
Iddeah, and the bafe fellow fhe cohabits with, dined on board, and
before flie left us, received all the red feathers we had, and likewifea
red uniform coat for Pomarre ; with which valuable prefents fhe was
highly delighted. Received two boat-loads of ftone. In the evening
a chief brought twenty fowls, for which he received an axe. Whilft
at dinner a native requefted the fhip's harpoon, to ftrike a large cavally
he had obferved : this he performed with great dexterity ; but the
wounded fifh having difengaged the harpoon, the man dived after it,
and brought up the cavally in his arms, weighing forty-five pounds,
for which the captain rewarded him, and fent the fifh on fliore to the
miffionaries.
20th. The weather fqually, with heavy rain. Few of the natives
on board, occafioned partly by the weather, and partly by a fhooting-
match with bow and arrow, which Otoo had at Oparre. Received
F F 2
220 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
three boats of ballaft. Thermometer 72^. To-day I returned from
making a tour of the ifland.
2 1 It, Weather as ycfterday : the winds during the latter part
fqually from the N. W. with heavy rain; which fo fwelled the river
of Matavai, that we with difficulty got one boat-load of ballaft.
Early in the morning Mawroa and his wife, who are our mofl
conftant vifitors, came, and brought with them a pig, bread-fruit,
cocoa-nuts, &c. : with them came alfo three women, who, they faid,
were relations; they likewife brought each of them a prefent. One
of them was full feventy years old, and fo infirm, and exhaufted with
the fatigue of getting on board, that {he laid herfelf down on the
cabin floor, apparently about to expire ; but recovering a little, fhe
ftaid on board all the day, and went fafe away in the evening.
Iddeah was among this day's vifitors, and, in fhort, the cabin was
quite crowded with them; which would often be uncomfortable,
were they not careful to fupply us with a plentiful table. Ther-
mometer 72°.
22d. Wind eafterly ; moderate and fine weather. Loofed fails to
dry, &c. After breakfail the mifllonaries came off, but without
Hones, not being able to get them for the fwell of the river. Sent on
flrore a quantity of rod, bolt, and bar iron. To-day the captain gave
Peter, the Swede, two fpades and fome other articles, as he propofed
creeling a houfe neai" to the miflionaries . My tayo Wyreede fent me
a large hog, as fhe had frequently done before.
23d. Fine pleafant weather, and a light air of wind eaflerly.
Five or fix failing canoes went out of the bay towards Tethuroa.
Thefe are the only canoes of the failing kind that we obferved on the
ifland, though fometimes they will ered: a temporary mafl to run
before the wind. Service on board by brothers Henry and Broomhall.
24th. Three of the company made an excurfion for two days,
with Peter the Swede, through Matavai, Oparre, Tettaha, and
Attahooroo, at which lall diftrid they flept. Every where they
July.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. azi
were received with profufe hofpitality, and had nine pigs roaftcd to
entertain them at different places.
Moderate and pleafant weather, with a few fhowcrs of rain. Landed
fundries, and received fome ballaft. Our vilitors were Iddeah and
my tayo Wyreede, with their hufbands ; their prefents amounted to
three hogs and a large quantity of bread-fruit. The young king
came off in his Tongataboo canoe, and paddled feveral times round
the fhip. The captain gave him an uniform coat of handfome fcarlet,
and entreated him to put it on, which he in a fullen fit, with favage
obflinacy, refufed to do.
During the night we had much rain, thunder, and lightning.
25th. The firfl: part of this day moderate and fair weather. In
the afternoon the wind veered to the weflward, and blew frefli, with
heavy rain for about an hourj then cleared up, and fell calm: and
thus it generally happens when wefterly, from which quarter it feldom
blows hard or long. The wives of the miflionaries dined and drank
tea on board. Thermometer 71!°.
26th. Gentle breezes and pleafant weather. The captain and
miflionaries employed in dividing the goods. Received one boat-load
of ballaft. The natives on board diverting themfelves by leaping off
the topfail-yard into the water. Thermometer 73".
27th. Variable winds and pleafant weather. Received one boat-
load of ftones.
In the dufk of the evening, one of our feamen, William Tucker,
made his efcape from the fhip. Wc had been apprized of his inten-
tion to Itay on the ifland, knew that moft of his clothes "were on fliore,
and had thoughts of fecuring him when we were about to depart,
not thinking he would go till near the laft day. When we found
him gone, the boat was inftantly manned, to purfue and fearch for him.
I and the third mate went on this fervice : we landed at Point Venus,
informed the miffionaries, raid the old chipf Pytcah, of what had
happened, and employed them alfo in the fearch, which proved in
vain ; for after examining every houfe in the diflridt we were obliged
222
FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE
[1797.
to return as we went. The two Swedes (Peter and Andrew) had
been abfcnt all the evening, which gave us reafon to fuppoie them
concerned in tlie affair ; for juft as we returned to the milfionary
houfe, they came in quite wet, faying that they had been a-fifliing,
an employment we knew they never went upon at nights ; befides,
their very looks condemned them. All that we could further do
in this bufmefs was, to go to the huts of Otoo and Iddeah, and defire
them to fend men in purfuit of Tucker, which they promifed to do.
And to crown the difagreeablenefs of this day, juft before we fet
off Avith the boat, the ram which we brought from England came
into the houfe, and died; fuppofed to have received fome mjury from
the natives, as he v/as a little mifchievous among them. However,
there are ftill good hopes of a breed, as one of the ewes had a fine
ram, which was now grown up.
28th. Pleafant weather. This morning, when Andrew the Swede
came on board, he was immediately put in confinement ; it appearing
evident that he had enticed Tucker from the Ihip, and was endea-
vouring to form a party which might prove dangerous to the mif-
fionaries : therefore the captain refolved on taking him off the illand.
Peter came on board alfo, and turning king's evidence, informed
us that a native named Matemoo had concealed Tucker in a thicket
of Matavai.
Iddeah was on board at the time, to whom we applied for help,
which fhe promifing, landed, and fent off a band of Otoo's men to
fearch the thicket, afiifted by a number of the miffionaries, with
myfelf and the gunner ; but all in vain : he was not to be found this
day. We heard that he had taken the road to Oparre, and intended
for Attahooroo ; and in confequence of this information. Smith,
Main, and Clode armed themfelves, and fet off in purfuit of him ; as
the captain intended at all events to have him, that mifchief to the
brethren might be prevented, and likewife defertions be thereby dif-
couraged. Thermometer 72°.
29th. Moderate breezes eafterly, and pleafant weather. The
July.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 223
captain and the four brethren employed dividing the goods, &c. No
further account of Tucker. At noon the three miflionarics returned
from a fruitlefs purfuit, much fatigued. Many of our friends the
natives on board to-day. Thermometer 73".
30th. Pleafant weather. Mr. Jcfferfon and Lewis chaplains for
the day.
About ten at night a native paddled off, calling out as he approached
the fhip, " All's well." His bufinefs, it fcemed, was to communi-
cate fomething concerning Tucker ; but he was fo ftupified with ava,
that he could not articulate a word. The coming of another canoe
explained the matter. In this laft were three of the milTionaries, Id-
deah, two of Otoo's fervants, and Tucker, bound, who curfed Otoo
heartily for his treachery. It appears that Otoo had been privy to
the whole affair, and had himfelf daily fed Tucker. But the cap-
tain having dropt an expreffion, in Iddeah's hearing, that if the
fugitive was not found he would take Otoo on board ; it fo terrified
him, that he fent a man to inform Tucker that he wanted him, and
contrived to have fome of the miffionaries in ambufli near the beach,
who feized him as he came along, and put him into the canoe, but
not without a great ftruggle, and many curfes. When we had got
him on board, he was put in confinement, till we fliould leave the
ifland. As for Iddeah, Ihe was at this time tremblnig ; and being
afked the reafon of it, Ihe faid, it was for fear Andrew fhould be
let loofe, for he was a bloody-minded man, and would wreak his
vengeance on her, and the other natives to whom the captain had
fhewn favour ; and that he thought very little of running his knife
into them.
31ft. Fine pleafant weather. Manne Manne, who was fo atten-
tive and friendly on our firfl vilit, did not till this morning fend his
refpedts and a prefent to his tayo the captain, and that himfelf would
be with us in a day or two. Iddeah and fevcral others came with
the ufual prefents of hogs, fruit, &c.
224 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [.797.
Augiift I ft. Light breezes and pkal^xnt weather. Bought two
he-goats to carry to the Friendly Iflands ; and received feveral prefents
from the natives. In the evening Manne Manne arrived at Matavai
in the vefTel he had juft built at Eimeo, and brought her alongfide for
the captain to view her : confidering her as their firfl elTay, flie is a
wonderful performance. This day at noon we fired a gun, and loofed
the fore-topfail, as a fignal for failing; and received Dr. Gillham and
all his baggage on board.
2d, The firft part fhowers of rain, the middle and latter part fair
and pleafant weather ; the wind wefterly all the afternoon, Iddeah
prefented the captain with a complete mourning drefs j and all the
other natives brought fomething with them.
To-day the divifion of the goods was finifhed, having been a long
employment.
3d. Pleafant weather, the wind variable. Sent on flaore an addi-
tion of fmall arms, ammunition, &c. which makes their flock as
follows : two fwivels, eight mufkets, one blunderbufs, nine piftols,
and nine fwords ; fifty-fix gun-flints, befides thofe in ufe; powder,
ball, drum and fife.
The natives were now crowding the fhip more than ever, and
many of them were very importunate to go to Pretane. Mawroa and
his wife my tayo Wyreede, Manne Manne, Iddeah, and the tayos of
the crew, laid us in a large fea-fi:ock of hogs, fowls, and fruit ; and
in return for their kindnefs received fuch things as were, to them
ufeful and gratifying, Manne Manne was very urgent for fails,
rope, anchor, &c. for his vefifel, none of which articles we had to
fpare : on which account, though the captain gave him his own
cocked hat and a variety of articles, he was ftill difcontented ; fay-
ing, " Several people told me that you wanted Manne Manne, and
•* now I am come, you give me nothing." An obfcrvation fimilar
to this he once made to the millionaries : " You give me," fays he,
" much parow (talk) and much prayers to the Eatooa, but very few
August.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 225
" axes, knives, fciffars, or cloth." The cafe is, that whatever he
receives he inimediately diftributes among his friends and dependants ;
fo that of all the numerous prefents he had received, he had nothing
t\ow to flaew, except a glazed hat, a pair of breeches, and an old
black coat, which he had fringed with red feathers. And this pro-
digal behaviour he excufes, by faying that, were he not to do fo, he
fliould never be a king, nor even remain a chief of any confcquence.
Unmoored the fliip, and got all things clear and in readincfs for
failing on the following day. Mrs. Henry, Hodges, and HalTJl,
with feveral of the miffionaries, came off to take leave of the captain,
officers, and crew, Mr. Clode, unfettled in his mind, wffhcd td
go to the Friendly Iflands : and, as the brethren left him at liberty to
go or ftay, determining to go, fome unwrought iron and other articles
were taken on board again for his ufe ; but in the evening he changed
his mind again, and refolved to ftay.
4th. Light airs of wind. At eight A. M. we weighed anchor,
and ftood out of Matavai bay ; the wind variable and baffling. Great
numbers of natives crowded on board, to take leave of their refpedlive
friends, and fee what they would further bellow ; for they poffefs
generofity and felfiflinefs in an almoft equal degree. Some at parting
with their tayos at one end of the fliip wept bitterly, but by only
walking the length of the deck they became as cheerful as ever ; and
when taxed with diffimulation, they laughing obferved, that it was
the parow or cuftom of Otaheite to weep and cut themfelves on fuch
occafions, but the latter they omitted becaufe we had told them it
was bad. But as all their paffions or fits are extremely lliort-lived,
efpecially that of grief, their prefent behaviour was only confiflent
with their general character and difpolition.
After hoifling the pinnace in we ftood off and on, waiting the
packets of letters, which were brought off at noon by Cover, Henry,
and feveral others who had not taken leave. After fuch convcrlation
as the occafion fuggeflcd, we tookan affediionate farewell, and parted,
perhaps never to behold each other again in this lite.
G G
226 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
It was the purpofe of the mifllonaries, as foon as the fliip failed, to
change their abode to a more ehgible fpot, and to furround their pre-
mifes with a ftrong wall, fufficient to protcd them from any danger,
though, while they are united, none is to be apprehended, as they
have fufficient force to defend themfelves againft the whole ifland.
As foon as this is done, they purpofe building a veflel of one hundred
or one hundred and fifty tons, capable of vifiting all the iflands
around them ; for which they have materials of every kind, plenty
of timber, and able workmen.
We hope they will have widely diffufed the glad tidings of falva-
tion, with which they are fent, by the time we may again vifit them.
August.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. aay
CHAPTER XV.
Return to Tongataboo. — Occurrences during our Abfence.
xd AV I N G pafTed at a confiderable diftance fouthward of the
Society Ifles on our former voyage, we now fhaped a diredl courfc
for them ; and by noon on the 5th of Aiiguft were but a httle way off
Huaheinc, its extremities bearing from N. E. by N. to N. W. As
we rounded the fouth end a few canoes came off, in one of which
was a chief, with the ufual peace-offering, viz. a young pig and a
green branch. They came on board without helitation, and talked
with nearly the fame freedom as the Otaheiteans. A few hatchets,
knives, and looking-glaffes were diftributed among them ; after
which, feeing that we difregarded their entreaties to anchor, they
went into their canoe and paddled away.
When to leeward of the illand, more canoes came alongfide : in one
of them was Connor, the Irifhman, one of the Matilda's crew. To
our aftonillimei^t, he had forgotten his native tongue, being able to
recolleft only a few words : and if he began a fentence in Englifh, he
was obliged to finifh it in the language of the iflands. Both he and
the natives begged hard for us to enter Owharre harbour ; but find-
ing that we were determined to make no flay, he aflced the captain
if he would take him home ; which was readily agreed to, as we
had reafon, from the condudl of his fhipmates at Otaheite, to fup-
pofe that fuch as he would prove a hindrance to the miffion. He
then begged the captain to give him time to take leave of his wife
and child ; which was alfo promifcd him : for that purpofe, we
hauled our wind towards the entrance of Owharre harbour; and when
off there. Dr. Gillham and I went on Ihore with him in the canoe,
G G 2
2jS first missionary voyage [1797.
and, landing, walked towards his hoiife through a crowd of natives,
which he cautioned us to beware of, left, for the fake of our clothes,
they fhould fall upon us and do us mifchief : he alfo requefted we
might not go far from him. When he made known his intention,
fomc of the women wept, and his wife was much caft down, though
he treated her with much indifference ; indeed, he had faid that he
did not care what became of her. But when he took the child in
his arms, a moft beautiful infant about eight or nine months old, the
tears gliftened in his eyes, and, exprefling his forrow, he feemed divided
in his mind, whether to ftay in a fituation where, by reafon of their
wars, he faid, his life was continually in jeopardy, or extricate himfelf,
and leave his beloved daughter to the mercy of favages. However,
as he ftill intended the latter, he embarked in the canoe, and his wife
and child accompanied us. In the way, we afked her if fhe woidd
part with her child ; her reply was, " No, not for any thing." As
feveral natives and chiefs had colledled on board, it was fome time
before Connor's bufinefs could be fettled ; which alfo gave him time
to confider more deliberately what to do. And, as he never let the
child out of his arms, his affeftion preponderated, and he told the
captain that he found it impoffible for him to leave it ; which we
were all glad to hear for the infant's fake. A few ufeful articles
were then prefented to him, and we immediately wore Ihip and made
fail, whilft they returned to the fhore.
He fays, that the wars here are far more deftrudlive than at
Otaheite, where they will not ftand to fight ; here they are more
courageous, and both by pradlice and necefiity are become far more
fkilful. He relates, that about two or three months before our vifit,
the people of Huaheine (whom he is obliged to affift, or ftarve)
went againft the ifland of Ulietea ; and in the firft battle, after many
falling on both fides, the latter was defeated, and forced to fly for
fafety to Borabora, leaving the Huaheine men mafters of the ifland;
but in a fliort time fome of the vidlorious band longing after their
wives, returned to Huaheine; of which their enemies no fooner
August.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 229
heard, than they came upon them with a fupcriority of numbers,
killed about fifty of their beft warriors, and it was with great diffi-
culty that Connor and a few more got to their canoes, in which, by
hard paddling, they efcaped from the purfuit of their enemies.
Connor fliewed the mark of a wound on the back, which had been
deep, but was now healed ; by which I fuppofed it more than three
months fince this affair happened. He fays, and I believe truly, that
there is no end to their wars ; and that to have been once beaten was
confidered as a fufficient caufe for entering on frefli wars ; for, not-
withftanding their late misfortunes, they were preparing for another
attack.
Connor had not been more than five years among the iflands, in
which time he proves, that a man may, in all points, become a
heathen, and even forget his own language ; though he had fpent
part of that time with his fhipmates. He had alfo forgotten what
time had elapfed fince the wreck of the fliip , but fuppofed it to be
eight years, which was three years too much. Perhaps fomething
might be faid in excufe for him ; he never could read ; but had he
pofTefTed only a fmall fliare of literature, it is likely abftradt or fpe-
culative ideas would fometimes have arifen in his mind, to exprefs
which, words of his native language conncdled with fuch ideas would
naturally and of neceffity recur, that of the iilands being too penu-
rious. Add to this, that the remotenefs of his fituation from home
might caufe him to give up all thoughts of ever returning to his na-
tive country, and to think no more of cultivating or retaining thofe
qualities he had occafion for there.
From Huaheine we fleered to go to the northward of Otaha ; but
as it ; was nearly calm we made little way ; and next day at noon
were no farther than between Otaha and Borabora, when we obferved
in 16" 28'' S. A few canoes came off from both iflands ; but as it
was Sunday, agreeably to the rule we had invariably followed, we
had no intercourfe with theni; except giving a' few knives and
hatchets, for which we took nothing in return. Neverthclefs, as w«
230 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
lay becalmed, they hung about the fliip moil of the day ; and when
leaving us, promiled to return on the morrow,
7th. In tlie evening the wind came from the weflward, and
rtrttching on the larboard tack, we faw the fmall ifland of Toubai ;
which at midnight bore W.N.W. and Mouroa W. by S. j and in
the courfe of the forenoon we palTed between the two, and north of
the latter, the wind at the time from S. W. by S. fqually, with
thick weather and conflant rain ; which continuing, we hauled the
fortfail up, and run under an eafy fail for the night; and next
morning at daylight faw Howe's iflandoff the deck, bearing S. by W.
8th. Obferved at noon in latitude 16" 45^ S. ; at the fame time faw
the land bearing north, and fuppofed it to be the Scilly iflands, dif-
covered by Wallis. We now fliaped a courfe for Palmerfton's iflands,
where we had fome bufinefs to do ; and on the morning of the
1 2th came in fight of them. Hoifling the pinnace out, we landed
at the fame iflet which we had formerly been upon, but by a better
pafTage than before. This lies a little more to the northward. On
this day we finiflred what we intended ; got about fix hundred cocoa-
nuts for the fliip's ufe, and planted (which was our main bufinefs)
thirty-four bread-fruit trees, eighteen plantain and feveral evee apple-
trees, of which there were none before on the ifland : and if they
flourifli, as there is fcarce a doubt but they will, the benefit of them
may be found by fome poor caft-away iflanders, or needy navigator.
At this time the tropic-birds were fitting on their eggs, and fo very
tame, that, had we pleafed, we might have caught many hundreds of
them.
1 8th. Hazy weather prevented our feeing Savage ifland. On the
17th we came in fight of E5oa, and next day moored fliip in the
harbour of Tongataboo in nine fithoms and a half, on a bottom of
fine black fand, Makkahah ifland bearing N.N.E. f E. and Attataa
N.W. I W.
Before we had anchored, George Veefon, one of the miffionaries,
came off, and informed us that the brethren were all well, Ifaac
April] TO THE SOUTFI-SEA ISLANDS. 231
Nobs excepted ; and that, for reafons judged mod prudent, they hatl
feparated into fmall parties, and were now with different chiefs.
Bowell and Harper were together with a chief named Vaarjee, who
refides at a place called Ardeo, Vcefon with Mulicemar, a chief of
the diftrid: of Ahoge, thirty miles from Aheefo, and Cooper with
Mooree at Ahoge : the reft are ftill at Aheefo. But before I notice
our proceeding > in the fhip, it may be neceiTary to infert a few extrads
from the journal of the miffionaries, written linceour departure.
April 15th. We were vifited by T5ogahowe, and many others j
we informed them of our want of more land and timber, which he
inftantly faid we ftiould have ; he would fend a perfon to fliew it us,
and when ready it fhould be brought home for us. We were dif-
appointed in not being able to viiit the fhip once more, and fend
letters to our brethren at Otaheite.
Sunday i6th. About feven o'clock we had a prayer meeting,
when brother Kelfo and Shelly engaged. As we had fitted up one
of our cuckoo clocks, the ftriking of it excited great furprife and
attention among the natives, who confidered it as a fpirit, on which
account they would not touch it, and fuppofcd, if they ftole any
thing, the bird fpirit would deted: them, which was not without its
ufe. In the forenoon brother Buchanan preached from Jer. xxxii. 27.
Several of the natives were prefent, and behaved very quietly : in the
afternoon brother Kelfo, from 2 Theff. iii. i . John Connelly (the Irilh-
man) paid us a vifit, accompanied by a brother of Feenou Towago,
a chief who lay fick at Noogollifva ; who having heard that Ambler
had a day or two ago emptied a cocoa-nut into a Japan pint pot, in
order to drink the milk, fent his brother about fixtecn miles to beg fuch
a one of us ; for without it, he was afraid he ihould not get well
again. This requeft we inflantly complied with, and made a pro-
23"-
m
FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
ife to vifit him as foon as pofTible. FuttafSihe fent a meffiige by
Connelly, entreating us to vifit him at Moba ; but this we could not
comply with till we knew more of the language. Several of us
\\cnt out to look for the Hiip, but faw nothing of her. Our patron,
Toogahowe, made us a prefent to-day of three pieces of land ; two
uncultivated of about an acre each, and one about the fame fize well
ftocked with yams and banana-trees : thefe, with the enclofure
where our houfe ftands, make about five acres. In the evening he
fent us three baked hogs, a large quantity of yams, and a bundle of
cloth.
17th. Two of the brethren went to look for the fliip, but without
fuccefs. We fent Toogahowe a prefent of earthen-ware, two gimlets,
and a few nails. Soon after he fent a meffenger, requefting us to go
and fmg to him before he fet off for Noogollifva ; but as he was at
this time furrounded by fome hundreds who were drinking their
morning kava, we declined going, and returned anfwer, that finging
5vas a part of our worfhip, and we did not make a pradtice of doing
it at other times ; which anfwer fatisfied him. He made inquiries
concerning our clock ; but faid, he would not have fuch a fpirit in
his houfe. Brother Harper made him a prefent of three fhawls ; and
foon after he fent us a hog and fome yams. Some of our number were
employed in ftubbing up old bread-fruit trees, and otherwife preparing
our home enclofure for garden- feeds : the fecretary, Bowell, writing
a vocabulary of the language. In the afternoon the mother-in-law
of Ambler, with her two daughters, came to fee us ; her hufband is
commander in chief of the fleet of T5ogahowe, and the mofi: fkilful
failor on the ifland. She informed us, that if we fent to her when
in want of provifions, flie would readily fupply us. Glory to God,
we are not likely to know any want ; he gives us enough and to
fpare.
18th. After family worlhip we refumed our different employments.
Several forts of feeds were fown, and more land prepared, A chief,
named Cofawer, brought us a hog and fome yams, and kindly in-
1
April.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 233
formed us, that whenever any of us went near his rcfidence, wc
fliould be welcome to what his plantation afforded. To-day Ambler
left us to pay a vifit to Moomooe, being firft equipped by us with
a fuit of clothes. Cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, &c. brought us by feveral
people during the day.
19th. B. Ambler returned again this morning, and informed us,
that the old king Moomooe exprefTcd fome furprife that none of us
had vifited him fince our landing, nor fent him a prefent. A fer\'ant
from Feenou Towago accompanied Ambler; his mafter had fent him
to beg a fork, a plate, an oil lamp, and fome red water (port wine).
Some of them, it appears, had fpread abroad, that the Pappa Langa
Tongatas (which is the name we go by) had in their polTellion fome
fmall things that gave better light than the nuts ftuck on the fplinters
of the cocoa-nut, which they ufed ; and this had induced Towago
to fend for one.
In the time of relaxation from the bufinefs of the garden we met,
and confidered the propriety of fome of our body going to vifit
Moomdoe and Futtaf aihe ; when it was refolved that brothers Kelfo
and Buchanan fhould on Monday next accompany Ambler, and
carry to each a prefent.
20th. Early this morning John Connelly took his leave to return
to Futtaf aihe, with whom he refides ; with him went the fervant of
Towago with the fpecified prefents for his mafter. Our friend
Mytyle came, and requefted one of us to fhave him ; which done,
he'fet off for Eooa, of which ifland he is the fupreme chief.
Our clock excites wondrous attention. Every tool we make ufe of
attradls the notice of the fpediators, with which we are commonly
furrounded. Many of them will mutter out bitter regret and re-
fledlions on their own country, becaufe fo ignorant of the ingenious
arts with which we are acquainted. A poor obje(5l, with ulcers
round her wrifts of long ftanding, applied to us ; and in about two
months we happily were able to cure her.
H H
aj4
Dc firing to
FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
prepare a forge, we endeavoured to form moulds for
brick : and to procure lime, we attempted to burn fliells, which
abound ; but found no con\'enicnt mode : we were able, however, to
obtain fomc from the natives, who ufe it to change the colour of
their hair, and dive for the flone in deep water, which they afterwards
burn. We Hiall no doubt, in time, be furniftied with thefe things
fufficient to fupply our wants.
21 ft. We were vifitcd to-day by feveral, who brought fmall pre-
fcnts of fruit, &c. Leboolo, a petty chief, came in the afternoon.
This man is accounted the firft fpearman in the country, on whicli
account Toogahowe has made him his chief warrior.
2 2d. In the courfe of this week we have dug and planted about a
fixth part of our home plantation ; feveral old trees have been taken
up, and an enclofure made for our hogs. Every employment we
engage in excites the attention of the natives, who are frequently fo
troublefome, that we are neceffitated to drive them away. Found the
mufquitoes very unpleafant j fome confined with fore feet, attended
with ffreat itchinfr.
Sunday 23d. As ufual we had a prayer meeting this morning.
About eight o'clock John Connelly paid us a vifit, bringing a fine
hog and fome yams from Futtafaihe, who had alfo commiffioned
him to make us an offer of any iflet we fhould choofe among thofc
which lie fcattered about Tongataboo, as feveral of them are his. Fifli
are in great plenty at thefe iflets, and during the hungry feafon will
be peculiarly ufcful to us. At half paft ten brother Buchanan dif-
courfed from John, i. : before he concluded, an old chief, named
Attar, came with fome kava and a bunch of bananas ; lie and
his attendants fat quietly till the fervice was over ; after which, being
told the day was facred, he apologized for difturbing us, and took
leave. In the afternoon brother Kelfo preached from Luke, xxii.
An inftance of a religious nature occurred to-day — the admiral of
the fleet fet fail for Feejee in a large double canoe to fetch a fpirit (an
April.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. ajs
idol), as they term it, to cure old Mooniooe, who lies at the point
of death ; and long before the canoe returns, which cannot be in lefs
than two months, he muft be departed, and part the fpirit's charm.
Oh may the time be haftened when they (hall turn from thefe vanities
to ferve the living God !
24th. Early this morning brothers Kelfo and Buchanan went
with John Connelly to pay a vifit to Futtafaihe and Moomooe at
Noogollifva. The weather proving very warm, little work was
done without doors. A fifter of Feenou Towago, named Onoadaier,
came to fee us, and in the afternoon fhe fent us fome hoti, Hoti is
a difli very much in requeft among the chiefs, and is made in the
following manner : they firfl pour cocoa-nut milk into a wooden
bowl, then fcrape out the kernel with a flicU j gee root is bruifcd into
the milk, and remains till the latter has imbibed a delicious fwcetncfs
from it ; the root is then taken out of the milk, and the kernel mixed
up with it, which we found a very rich mefs. Harper vifited
Moomooe's fiatooka,. about half a mile from the miffionary houfe at
Bunghye, a beautiful folitary place furrounded by toa and other trees,
on which hung vaft multitudes of bats as big as crows, called by
the natives beaker. Here he faw two houfes ; in one there was a
quantity of fpears and warlike implements, facred to the Odooa, or
fpirit; in the other an image of a goddefs, called Fyega ; to whom
they pray for a favourable fcafon for making cloth.
25th. Onoadaier paid us another vifit this morning, and made
us a mefs of hoti j which being done in our own houfe, gave us an
opportunity of noticing the great cleanlinefs which they obferve in
their cookery. In the afternoon we were vifited by a young chief
from Leefooka, called by Captain Cook, Leefooga; it is one ot the
Hapae, or Harby iflands. His name is Foonogge, and he is one of the
finefl made men we have yet feen. As Ambler has been frequently
with him, he has learnt feveral Englilli words, which the young
man fpeaks very plain. He indeed difcovcred a furprifmg facility
to learn any word or letter which we fpoke, or pointed out to him.
H H 2
236 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [i797.
26th. During the night we had copious fliowers of rain, and the
wind blew frelli. About eight o'clock a chief brought us a pig and
twenty fine yams ; in return for which we gave him a few articles
of earthen-ware. A fhort time after we received a fimilar prefent.
About ten o'clock brothers Buchanan and Kelfo returned from
Noogollifva, bringing with them fugar-cane, drefled filh, pork, and
yams.
The following is a brief narration of their excurfion : " At half pall
fix we took our departure from Goloobaloo, and after wading about
three quarters of a mile upon the beach got into a canoe, in which
were three of Futtafaihe's fervants to convey us to Noogollifva :
wind and tide being againfl: us, we landed about five miles from our
journey's end, and walking about an hour we came to the refidence
of Feenou Toogahowe, who, furrounded by a circle of attendants,
was taking his morning's kava. When we had gone through the
iifual falutations, and made him a prefent, we proceeded to fee his
father, and found him removed to a new habitation, which was not
quite finifhcd ; but twelve or fourteen men being at work upon it,
they completed it foon after our arrival. Poor Moomooe feemed
dangeroufly ill, and was furrounded by feveral of his wives, the
oldefl of whom is devoted to be flrangled at his death. He feemed
very well pleafed with the prefent we made him ; a piece of foap
was a part of it, which when he faw, he exprefled a wifh to be
fhaved, and was much gratified when it was done. Soon after this
we were furnifhed with a mefs of fifh, yams, &c.
About ten o'clock we went to Futtaf aihe, whom we found giving
orders to get a large double canoe into a boat-houfe, fituated about
twenty yards from high-water mark. He received us with great,
affability and good-nature, bidding us welcome, and apologized for
the meannefs of the habitation, alfo for the fmallnefs of the prefents
he had fent us ; the reafon of which, he faid, was our living at fo'
great a diftance from him. He received the prefent we made him
with much good-humour, and without the avidity fo remarkable in
April.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 237
many others. When we had partaken of the refrcfhments he had
provided, he took us to the beach, and flievvcd us fcveral iflands, any
of which, he faid, were at our fervice; but he advifed againft going
to examine them this afternoon, on account of the roughncfs of the
weather. Therefore, having a httle time on our hands, we vifited
feveral other chiefs ; and being at laft fcnt for by Toogahowe, we
immediately waited upon him in company with Connelly, and found
upon our arrival, that Moomooe had fent us a large baked hog and
fome yams. The hog was inftantly cut up with a fplinter of bam-
boo, and, together with the yams, divided among the chiefs who
were prefent ; and when we had fpcnt a proper time here we returned
again to Futtaf aihe, who had got a fowl ready dreffed for us : and
thus it was wherever we went, plentiful provifion was made. When
we had fupped we retired to reft, but were rather diflurbed by fome
old women, who were employed the whole night in beating the legs
of Futtafaihe. Next morning we rofe before daylight, intending to
vifit the iflands and make choice of one of them, but were de-
tained for fome time by a mifunderftanding of Futtaf aihe's orders.
However, as the chief had been fent for to pay his laft vifit to
Moomooe, fuppofed to be dying, by Connelly's exertions we em-
barked in two canoes, with three natives in each to paddle us. After
fome time we landed at a place called Hollifva, where we were
fhewn a well, which they informed us was dug by Captain Cook :
it is the largeft and deepeft we have feen in the country, but the water
is bad, and the land contiguous to it much encumbered with un-
derwood. Thence croiTmg a creek, we came to an ifland called
Noogonoogo : here we breakfafted upon fifli and baked plantains at
the firft houfe we came tO; after which we made a tour round the
ifland, and found it, like that at Hollifva, abounding with under-
wood ; but it had' a few plantations in good order, which feemed to
have coft the natives much labour, on which account we refufcd to
accept of it.
438 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
We therefore embarked again, and crofled to another, called Mak-
kahah: this we found well ftored with cocoa-nuts, plantains, bread-
fruit, and fugar-cane, alfo good frefh water. Upon the beach we
found a curious coral rock, much refembling the ftump of an old
tree, about five feet high and four thick; it was full of holes, in
which were a great number of w^ater-fnakes. The natives forbad
us to hurt them, and would fcarce fuffer them to be touched, faying
they were agees; which led us to fuppofe they were facred animals.
Thefe fnakes were about thirty inches long : the body, from head to tail,
is in circles of black and white alternately, each about half an inch
broad ; along the top of the back is a beautiful ultramarine blue.
Though not venomous, the natives reprefent them as dangerous, and
fay they will kill a man by twilling round his neck and biting a hole
in his throat. We next examined another fmall ifland, called Faffaa,
where was plenty of bread-fruit, but little of any thing elfe j there-
fore, on our return, we made choice of Makkahah, and the few na-
tives, about thirty in number, became our tenants j from whom we
could afterwards draw whatever we w^anted of the produce, or de-
mand their fiih, if we chofe it ; or improve the ifland, by making
what alterations in it we pleafed. We found Futtafaihe ftill with
Moomooe ; he expreffed his approbation of our choice in a very
obliging manner, and informed us farther, that he had fet three men to
fit cordage to a fingle failing canoe, which he intended for our ufe.
Moomooe was now incapable of turning himfelf, and appeared to be
haftening fall to diffolution j neverthelefs he defired us to fend him
a cuckoo clock, and a few of our number to fing pfalms for
him. We were greatly fliocked with the behaviour of Toogahowe,
who two days ago had caufed a young man (his own younger
brother) to be llrangled, that his father might recover. The vidim
he had buried within a few yards of the houfe where we were, and
he now came to mourn over him, which he did by fitting upon the
grave with his elbows upon his knees, and covering his face with
April.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 239
his hands remained a long time in filence, and then departed very
thoughtful. After fupper Futtafaihe went to fit up with Moomooc,
and we retired to reft ; and early next morning embarking in a canoe,
got home about nine o'clock."
27th. It had rained hard during the night, which prevented us
from working in the day. A prefent of a turtle and fome yams came
from Noogollifva in Moomooe's name : this is efteemed a valuable
prefent in this country. Several of our garden-feeds have now made
their appearance, and look exceedingly well ; but the rats and mice are
very deftrucflive : our crops of peas have fallen a prey to their ravages,
and we are afraid the beans will Ihare the fame fate, except we find
fome means to deftroy or drive away thefe vermin. A blind chief
vifited us to-day.
28th. Weather ftill wet. Great numbers of people are daily
coming into our neighbourhood, bringing cloth, hogs, yams, &c.
to be difpofed of at the funeral of Moomooe, whofe death is hourly
expeded. Temporary huts are conftruding in every convenient
place near to Bunghye, which was the ufual refidence of the king
(Moomooe), and where his fiatooka is, which ftands about half a
mile from our houfe. A young woman arrived at our houfe this
morning, and gave an affeding account of the fate of one of
Moomooe's fons. The youth, it feems, lived at fome diftance from
Noogollifva, where the father lies fick, and by order of whom he was
fcnt for, under pretence of having his little fingers cut off, a cuftom
common here, and done with a view to appeafe the anger of the
Odooa, that the fick perfon m.ay recover, but, in fadl, that he might
be ftrangled. Upon the arrival of Colelallo he was faluted in a
cordial manner by his elder brother Toogahowe, and foon after went
to fee his father, whofe attendants feized upon him with a view to
ftrangle him inftantly, when he, guefTing their intention, fail, if
they would ufe gentler means he would fubmit to his father's will ;
but they continuing their violence, he by a great exertion beat them
off. Three feejee men were then called, and thefe bemg joined by a
2^0 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
filler of the unfortunate Colelallo, they accompliflied his death.
Alas, how dreadful the darknefs that envelopes the minds of thofe
poor heathens ! The prince of darknefs has imprefled the idea on
them, that the ftrength of the perfon ftrangled will be transferred
into the fick, and recover him. Oh, when ihall the happy period
come when they Hiall fay, What have we to do any more with idols ?
29th. Foonogge paid us a vifit this morning, and after him came
our friend Mytyle, who informed us that Moom5oe had departed
this life about four o'clock this morning. The people who paffed
from Noogollifva, with their faces bruifed, and blood running down
their cheeks, were numerous : inllead of cloth they wore matting
round them, and a twig of the chefnut-tree about their necks j this,
it feems, is their mourning drefs. About one o'clock Toogahowc
arrived; and foon after Ambler, accompanied by brother Bowell, went
to fee him. He was fitting in a fmall neat houfe, giving orders to
feveral chiefs who fat around him, concerning the procuring the vafl
fupplies of hogs, &c. that will be confumed at the funeral. About
three o'clock the body of the deceafed king was carried paft our houfe,
at a fmall diftance from the beach ; it was laid on a kind of bier made
of the boughs of trees, and fupported by about, twenty men : feveral
relatives of the deceafed preceded the corpfe in their mourning drefTes, as
above; fome of them had cut their heads with fhark's teeth, and the
blood was running in dreams down their faces. Behind the corpfe
was a multitude of people of both fexes. A female chief called
Fefene Duatonga, who is very corpulent, was carried on a kind of
frame made of two long bamboos, between which fhe fat on a piece
of matting, and was borne by four men. Near her Futtafaihe
walked ; and next them two women, who were devoted to be
ftrangled at the funeral : one was weeping, but the other appeared
little concerned; they both were wives of the deceafed. Some of us
followed them to the fiatooka, near which they depofited the body
for the prefent, in a houfe carried thither for the purpofe, and which
was hung round with black cloth. This fiatooka is fituated on a
May.] To the SOUTII-SEA. ISLANDS. a+i
fpot of ground about" four acres. A mount rifes with a gentle flopc
about feven feet, and is about one hundred and twenty yards in cir-
cumference at the bafe ; upon the top ftands a houfe neatly made,
which is about thirty feet long, and half that in width. The roof
is thatched, and the fides and ends left open. In the middle of this
houfe is the grave, the fides, ends, and bottom of which are of coral
ftone, with a cover of the fame : the floor of the houfe is of fmall
ftones. The etoa and other trees grow round the fiatooka.
To the left of the tomb, and without the enclofure, fat about four
hundred people : the major part of them were men, for whom yava
was brewing. Oppofite to thefe were placed five large roafted hogs,
twenty baflcets of roafted yams, and about one hundred pieces of mai
(or mahie), the four pafte. A few paces from the provifions fat feven
or eight men, who were tabooed, and exempt from cutting themfelves.
One of thefe gave orders concerning the difpofal of the hogs, yams,
and yava ; all that drank of the latter were mentioned by name, by a
perfon appointed to that office by Fefene Duatonga, who now feemed
to have the management of the funeral. They did not forget us;
but in dealing out the liquor fent us each a part, which wc gave to
the natives who fat by us. Perfons of both fexes feated themfelves in
different parts of the ground, beating their faces dreadfully; and after
having emptied two bowls of yava, difperfed.
30th. During the night great numbers of people were pafTing and
repaffing. Preaching by brothers Buchanan and Kelfo. Many of
the natives crowded round our gate, and a few were admitted. Pre-
parations for the funeral were carried on with unremitting diligence
by the natives.
May I ft. Three roafted hogs were fent us this morning, one
from Fefene Duatonga, one from Toogahowe, and the other from
Feenou Lucalullo. Jn return we fent a prefent to Toogahovve only ; it
confifted of a cooper's adze, an auger, a gouge, three gimlets, a
plane, two chifTels, &c. Several ftrangers came to gratify their cu-
rio/ity during the day, great numbers of whom ftood without the
I I
„4i FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
fence, noticing all our adions, Fiittafaihe paid us a vifit this morning
for the firfl time fmce we have been on fliore ; one of the brethren
(havcd him, and whihl he was doing it the natives were afraid any of
the hair fliould fall to the ground, in which cafe not one of them
would dare to cat under the roof again; however, no accident of that
kind happened. Great preparations are making at Bunghye for the
funeral; people flocking from all quarters with hogs, fruit, cloth,
fpears, and clubs.
2d, The crowd in our neighbourhood is prodigious, and alarming
to us ; and we are informed they are likely to make a flay of two or
three months, in which time He alone who reigns on high knows
what exceffes they may run into towards us.
As the funeral was to take place to-day, brother Bowell went with
Ambler to Bunghye to fee the ceremony, and found about four thou-
fand perfons fitting round the place where the fiatooka flands. A few
minutes after our arrival we heard a great fhouting and blowing of
conch-fhells at a fmall diftance ; foon after about an hundred men ap-
peared, armed with clubs and fpears, and rufliing into the area,
beg^an to cut and manele themfelves in a mofl dreadful manner :
many fl:ruck their heads violently with their clubs ; and the blows,
which might be heard thirty or forty yards off, they repeated till the
blood ran down in flreams. Others who had fpears, thruft them
through their thighs, arms, and cheeks, all the while calling on
the deceafed in a mofl affedling manner. A native of Feejee, who
had been a fervant of the deceafed, appeared quite frantic ; he entered
the area with fire in his hand, and having previoufly oiled his hair,
fet it on fire, and ran about with it all on flame. When they had
fatisfied themfelves with this manner of torment, they fat down, beat
their faces with their fifls, and then retired. A fecond party went
through the fame cruelties ; and after them a third entered, fhouting
and blowing the fliells ; four of the foremofl held flones which they
ufed to knock out their teeth; thofe who blew the fliells cut their
heads with them in a Ihocking manner. A man that had a fpear run
May.] to the SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 243
it through his arm juft above the elbow, and with it flicking fafl ran
about the area for feme time. Another, who feemed to be a principal
chief, ailed as if quite bereft of his fenfcs ; he ran to every corner of
the area, and at each ftation beat his head with a club till the blood
flowed down his fhoulders. After this brother Bowell, fliockcd, and
unable to bear the fcene any longer, returned home. Futtaf aihe alfo
came to our dwelling, and flayed about two hours. At two o'clock
in the afternoon four of us went to the fiatooka, where the natives of
both fexes were ftill at the dreadful work of cutting and mangling
themfelves. We had not been long there before we heard at a
diftance, low but expreflive founds of the deepeft forrow and lament-
ation : this was a party of about one hundred and forty women
marching in fingle file, bearing each a bafket of fand ; eighty men
followed in the fame manner, with each two bafliets of coral fand,
and fung, as they marched, words importing, *' This is a blcfling to
" the dead;" and were anfwered in refponfes by the women.
Another company of women brought a large quantity of cloth, and
anfwered in their turn to the above refponfes. Thus thefe three bands
walked towards the tomb, filling or covering that part of the mount
between the houfe and the place where the corpfe lay, and the grave,
with fine mats and cloth j after which, fevcn men blew conch-lhells,
whilfl others fung in a doleful flrain exprefTive of the moft heart-felt
grief. The corpfe was now conveyed to the grave upon a large bale
of black cloth, with which, and fine mats, they covered it. The
bearers, as they went, walked ftooping low, and carrying the bale in
their hands. Whilfl thefe fervices were performing, a company of
men and women came into the area, and cut themfelves dreadfully.
After them another file of females, nineteen in number, brought
each a bag of their mofl valuable articles j and twenty-one more had
each a fine mat in their hands, all of which they depofitcd in the
tomb, being, as they call it, a prefent for the dead ; and immediately
after came a prefent from Toogahowe, confifling of thirty-five bales
of cloth, each bale carried by four men on a frame. After the pre-
I I 3
2^^ FIRST jSIISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
fcnts another party of niournsrs entered the area, fixtecn of whom had'
recently cut their little fingers off: thefe were followed by another
party with clubs and fpears, who beat themfelves as before defcribed,
and disfigured their faces with cocoa-nut hulks fixed on the knuckles
of both hands. We noticed that thofe who had held offices, or were
related to the dcccafcd, were the mofl cruel to themfelves ; fome of
whom thrult two, three, and even four fpears into their arms, and fo
danced round the area, and fome broke the ends of the fpears in their
flcfh. The grave was covered with a hewn ftone about eight feet
long, four broad, and one thick : this ftone they had fufpended with
two large ropes, which went round two flrong piles drove into the
ground at the end of the houfe, and thence led to the area, where
about two hundred men held by them ; and whilft they lowered
it flowly, women and children wept aloud, or fung words importing,
*' My father, my father ! the befl of chiefs, &c." More cloth w-as
then brought to be put into the tomb ; and another party entered, and
abufed themfelves as before. After thefe paroxyfms of grief they fat
awhile in filence ; and when they had pulled the rope clear off the
flone which covered the grave, thofe on the mount gave a great fhout,
which was anfwered by a general tearing of the leaves from the necks
of all prefent; after which they difperfed.
3d. Several flrangers vifited us this morning, many of whom
are chiefs of confiderable influence : from them we receiA^ed a few
fmall prefents. The dreadful work of cutting and manghng was
again renewed to-day with frefli vigour by the natives ; but on re-
fledion we did not think proper to go, and countenance by our pre-
fcnce the cruel cufloms of this poor deluded people. Except being
crowded by natives round our enclofure, nothing material occurred on
the two following days ; but to prevent mifchief as much as in us
lay, we watched at nights, two at a time, though, thank God, we
have not as yet been molefled ; and our friend Toogahowe has threat-
ened with death any man that fhould be detcded in robbing us.
4th. Ambler, who had received from us various articles of
jsiay.] to the south-sea islands. 245
wearing appard, and a box to fecure them, pretended to be robbed by
the natives, and contrived to have the empty box brought back ; but
v/e fufpc'died the cheat. He beat one of the women he lived with in-
humanly, who ran away, and the friends of the other carried her off;
yet though this fellow was fo wicked, he rendered us confiderable
fervice by inftrudling us in the language, as alfo did a young chief
named Fynogge.
6th. Took a walk to Mooco, a fine elevated fpot near the beach,
^^•ith houfes and enclofures, belonging to Fejnoa Towago, who lay
Tick. V/e {laid with him about four hours. He made us a prefent of a
fine American dog, an animal of which we flood in need. We re-
ceived alfo a prefent from a great chief of the Harby iflands.
On our way we obferved the country, and the manner of fencing
and cultivating their lands. It is in general level, laid out in fields
or fmaller enclofures, called abbeys, and fome ftill lefs, which fur-
round the houfes, called Iad5res, Their fences are reed, fet in a
trench, plaited clofe, and faftened to flakes on the infide, which
ftrike root and grow : they contain banana-trees, or yams, fet in
rows three feet afunder, which were now ripe; between the rows the
3'ava root was cultivated, or the talloo, another efculent root; but
they left the uncultivated parts very foul, and overgrown with weeds
and grafs. Their mode of working is to fquat down on their hams,
and hoe the ground with an inftrument of hard wood, about five feet
long, narrow, with fharp edges, and pointed; with this alfo they
dig it up.
In the evening Benjamin Ambler made ufe of very improper language
to the brethren, and defired them to quit the abbey, and to fow no more
feeds. On this we applied to our friend and patron Toogahowe;
Mytyle, who has rendered us fo many kind offices, accompanied us,
Toogahowe received us very cordially, faid he loved us and all our
brethren, and immediately gave us a pig and twenty fine yams ; and
when he had heard our complaint was very angry, and fent im-
mediately for Ambler, who came,, and notwithftanding his cndca-
246 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
vours to palliate what he had faid, he received a fevere reproof from
the chief, who told him that he had no right to our houfe, nor any
thint? about us, and dcfired he would let us alone in future.
7th. This forenoon Futtafaihe, accompanied by two of his
tuckongers (or counfellors), came, and ftaid about an hour with us,
then took their leave.
About ten A. M. brother Buchanan preached from Heb. xii. i. ;
in the afternoon brother Kelfo from Cant. i. and afterwards ad-
miniflered the Lord's fupper. As few of the natives were permitted
within the enclofure, we were enabled to wait on the God of our fal-
vation without diftrad:ion.
8th. Our friend Toogahowe, attended by a numerous retinue, '
brought us two pieces of cloth, and a fpade which we had given him
the week before j he now wanted it cut in pieces, to make fmall iron
tools ; this was done, and as the grindftone had been fitted up, they
were alfo fharpened for him : having fome yava root by us, we gave it
to him, fothat while the bufinefs of the fpade was going on, they re-
galed themfelves over a bowl, and afterwards departed much pleafed.
Futtafaihe came to-day likewife, and brought with him a fine turtle.
More than twenty large double canoes arrived from the Harby iflands,
carrying upwards of fifty perfons each : in one of them was Morgan
Bryan, an Irifhman, the former flaipmate of Ambler and Connelly :
he had heard of our arrival fo early as about the time the Iliip failed.
As foon as he landed he came and flaid fome time, but during our
interview gave fuch fpecimens of depravity as excited a wifli for him
never more to come under our roof. A writine-book forgotten at '
Feenou Toogahowe's his wife firft denied, and then produced ftripped
of moft of the leaves.
9th. Several chiefs came to fee us this morning, and brought tools
to be fharpened. Morgan came again to fee us, and to our grief we
are likely to have much of his company. Provifions in abundance
are ftill brought to Bunghye from all parts of the country. Strangers
likewife are vifiting the fiatooka of Moomooe, where they continue the
May.] to the SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 247
cruel mourning ceremony, but not fo much now as a few days ago.
Morgan, who had in the morning requcfted iron tools of us, which
we did not think proper to give, took the liberty, in concert with
Ambler, to upbraid us, and to ufe fuch language as much hurt our
minds. Ambler well knew that our ftock of tools was much reduced,
yet he did not fcruple to fay, that, unlefs we complied with his rc-
quefl:, he would, before ten days elapfed, adopt means to fatisfy hini-
felf ; and with this threat walked off. May He who has faid, " Be
" not difmayed, I am thy God," protedt us with his almighty
power from the machinations of thofe wicked men !
loth. About five A. M. brother Kelfo being on watch difcovered
a man creeping through the fence ; he immediately ftruck the thief,
and repeated his blows till the man ran off. Mytyle being acquainted
with it, was very forry the fellow was not killed. A fifter of
Toogahowe's, named Feenou Allawallo, fent us a fine hog and
eight balkets of yams, and feveral of her family followed, and ftaid
moft of the afternoon, which was rainy. In the evening Toogahowe
came himfelf, with a chief from Harby ; before he departed he re-
ceived a coverlid from one of the brethren, with which he was highly
gratified.
nth. John Connelly informs us, that while the chiefs fat over
the yava bowl this morning, he overheard them laying plans to em-
brace the firft opportunity to deprive us of all our poffcffions, but that
they waited the return of the fliip, when they hoped we fhould receive
more articles. The truth of this report we have no reafon to doubt,
as we know there is not a man on the ifland but would tell us upon
inquiry, that they are " matde monucka," that is to fliy, " dying
•' in love for our things." This information gave us no fmall un-
eafinefs, and led us to inquire what fleps were proper to be taken at
this critical juncture, and which was the path of duty. We knew
not the way of proceeding they might take to effed: their purpofe ;
but as favages generally work themfelves up to fury on occafions of
enterprife, we had but little hope that they would regard our lives.-
j^3 nilST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
After debating the iubjcdl, we concluded the fafefl: plan ^^•ould be, to
fcparatc, and, going two together, put ourfelves under the protedlion
of the greatelt chiefs, and place our property alfo under their care ; by
wliich means we might fccurc our perfons, and, at leafl, fave our
books ; but that we might have one place whereat to meet and com-
mune together, it was judged proper that four of our mimber Iliould
remain with Toogahowe.
In the afternoon brothers Bowcll and Veefon, accompanied by
Connelly, went in qucit of Toogahowe, who feemed to difcover
little concern when he heard of our circumftanccs ; but wifhed that
he might have his fliare of the property, if we did feparate. Ort
this we invited him to our habitation, and opened every box to his
view, from every one of which he took fomething, by way of tithe,
and departed fatisficd.
I 2th. The night paffed quietly, and but few of the natives came
near our fence ; however, the alarm of yeflerday was by no means
quelled. Toogahowe wifhed for us all to remain with him, the mo-
tives for which we could eaiily fee through ; it appearing evident that
he hoped to receive fomething confiderable on the return of the fhip.
But the more we weighed the fubjecfl, the more were we perfuaded
of the impropriety of remaining together. We had witnelTed a great
wafte of provifions at the recent ceremonies, and which, by the
daily influx of ftrangers, was likely to continue j this we were cer-
tain would be feverely felt in the fcarce feafon, which was fafl ap-
proaching. We had many articles in our poffeffion which would
engage their affeiflion and friendfhip. Except we feparated, we were
likely to be the principal fuflferers, it being much eaiier for a chief
to provide for two or four than for ten j befides, we had hopes of
acquiring the language with greater facility. We therefore waited
again upon Toogahowe, and acquainted him with our refolution :
he feemed willing we fhould do as we pleafcd ; but only feemed fo,
for we knew he was inwardly vexed about it. A chief named Mu-
licemar was fpoken to, who agreed to take any two of our number.
May.] to THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 249
We next addrefled Feenou Allawallo ; flie is accounted the grcatefl
chief of her family, is the fiftcr of Toogahowe and mother of Feenou
Towago. She faid tliat fhe would gladly take two of us, but that
her brother was averfe to our leaving him : that, as we had landed
under his proted:ion, he wiflied us to remain fo; and that he would
account the chief his enemy who attempted to entice us from him.
On this account fhe advifed us only to vifit the chiefs at their houfes,
where we m'ght make our flay long or fliort, and fo return again ; and
that at her houfe we fhould be always welcome. This advice we at
prefent adopted, and we rcfolved to wait as we were.
A great heiva or mai was performed at the fiatooka of Moomooe ;
firfl by women in their befl garments and finefl mats : pieces of our
cloth or filk were added as ornaments ; the perfumed cocoa-nut oil
dropping from their hair. Two drums, and a vocal concert of men
/itting round, accompanied the women, who alfo fung and danced,
performing different evolutions in a moft graceful manner. An old
chief at intervals called out, " Fyfogce," or, Encore j and fometimcs
" Marea," or. Well done.
Great preparations were made this morning for what they call a
mai, which was intended to be celebrated in the evening by women.
Upwards of one hundred and thirty hogs were roafted, and, with
three hundred baikets of yams, were diflributed by Toogahowe.
Seven hogs and as many bafkets of yams were fent us by different
perfons. Our vilitors of rank were numerous.
As they are always in fearch for iron, a thief contrived to fleal
our wafh-tub, took the hoops off, and concealed the flaves in the
grafs. Thus we were deprived of the only utenfil we polfefled of
this kind.
14th. Divine fervice by brother Buchanan, from Heb. xii. 2.:
afternoon, by brother Kelfo, from Rom. vi. 23.
To-day Toogahowe was veiled with the name and authority of
Dugonagaboola, in the room of his father, Moomooe, deccafcd. His
name was now changed from Feenou Toogahowe to that of Talliata-
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250
FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE
[•797-
boo, the god of their f:imily ; and we undcrftand that none of his
fubjcds mufl: in future addrefs liim hy his former name, on pain of
death.
15th. Vaharta, a chief, vifited us, and brought us a hog, twenty
yams, &c.
1 6th to the 2ifl:. On Monday night we had a fevere tempeft,
with copious fhowers of rain. Strangers ftill arc coming from the
Harby iflands and Vavao ; many of whom, as they arrive, go to
the fiatooka, ami pay their tribute of refped to the deceafed, by cruel
inflidions on their own bodies. The fcenes of joy and mourn-
ing now occupy their whole time : at prefent the diverlions of the
women prevail ; and in a few days the men will commence theirs.
Thofe who come from diftant parts of this ifland are returning home,
on account of the difficulty of getting food at Bunghye. The diver-
fions and ceremonies, we fuppofe, will yet laft fome weeks, in which
time we cannot exped to make much improvement in our land.
On Sunday the 21ft, brother Buchanan difcourfed from his former
text; brother Kelfo, from Col. ii. 12.
22d. Prepared a piece of ground for turnips, which thrive better
than any other feeds. Set fome peas and beans ; thofe we firfl planted
were in blow in about two months. The peas were chiefly deftroyed
by the rats, which abound here. Walked over the weftern part of
the ifland, not more than a mile acrofs. The fhore rocky ; a heavy
furf upon it. Obferved the natives amufing themfelves with fwim-
ming in the furf, and carried on the top of the wave ; this fport
they call faneefo.
The men have begun their diverfions at Moomooe's fiatooka, and
praftife morning and evening in different parties, under different
chiefs. Next Sunday is fixed for the cartonga lahie, or great
toomai i after which, we are informed, niany of the people will dif-
perfe, of which we fhall be heartily glad.
28th. The great toomai was performed by men dreffed in their
fincft robes, and mats ornamented with feathers, beads, fhells, &c. ;
May.] to THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 251
the drums called tarraffe founding, accompanied by a chorus of per-
formers finging, and holding in their hands an inftrumcnt like a
paddle, called dobochc, about two feet and a half long, with a Ihort
handle ; making curious flourilhes, with correfponding motions, and
different attitudes ; thofe around them joining in the chorus. They
began in three lines, and fliiifted by various evolutions, till thofe in
the rear became the front, moving in exad: time, and with a graceful
ftep. Some of our number make a practice of viliting one or other
of the great chiefs every day, by whom we are treated with much
affedion, and they offer us any thing in their poflclTion. They take
great pains, and difplay much ingenuity, in endeavouring to make
us underftand their language. Through the week we have had a
moft liberal fxipply of provifions fent us, and have eleven hogs in
our fty, more than we well know how to feed. Maintained our ufual
worship ; brother Buchanan fpoke from Heb. xij. 2. Kelfo from
Col. ii. 13.
29th. Two of our brethren being invited by Futtafaihe to Mooa,
they fet off, and overtook him in about two miles, having refted
with his party to take their morning draught of kava : they purfued
their journey in company. The Dooatonga being unwell was carried
by four porters, on a kind of litter. They proceeded not in the direct
road by the beach, but turned to the right inland, and flopped at the
largefl houfe they had feen in the ifland, being one hundred and
eighteen feet by fifty-fix, and neatly thatched ; it is called Naffoola,
and is about fix miles from ours. Here they refled about three hours,
during which they took a turn to Lego, as they call the weftern part
of the ifland, faw much land cultivated for yams, but more negledled
and overgrown with weeds. There were vaft groves of cocoa-nuts,
which grew on the bare rocks, even to the edge of the cliffs.
Below was i^ delightful fpring gufliing out of a rocky cavern, into
which, at high water, the fea flows. In the evening they went to
Togamaloolo, a beautiful fpot at a little diflancc from the road, where
K K 2
t
2^2 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
they flcpt. Before the hoiife was a large green area, and on each fide
a fiatooka containing three tombs.
30th. Reached Mooa, the refidence of Futtafaihe j they found
the abbeys and laddres of this village in a very ruinous condition,
and the fences much out of repair. Here are feveral houfes, which
Connelly faid were f pints' houfes, where they found logs of wood,
flones, and bundles of rags, which were confidered as fpirits, being
brought from the Feejee iflands. Thefe places are falling down,
but fo facred, they muft not be touched to repair them. Futtafaihe is
very fuperftitious, and himfelf efteemed as an odooa or godj he is alfo
much devoted to pleafure, fmging, and dancing ; has feveral wives,
the firft women of the country ; one, the daughter of Moomooe,
called Dooboumaofer : Ihe has features and a complexion very like a
European, as flie feldom goes out of the houfe, or expofes herfelf
to the fun and air.
The lands about Mooa are ill cultivated, and overgrown with grafs
and trafh ; though there are many beautiful abbeys planted with a
variety of trees and flowering fhrubs of the moft delicious fragrance.
3 1 ft. Very rainy and tempeftuous. When it cleared up they
walked out to fee the abbeys, canoes, &c. The 'fiatookas are remark-
able. There lie the Futtafaihes for many generations, fome vaft and
ruinous, which is the cafe with the largefl: ; the houfe on the top
of it is fallen, and the area and tomb itfelf overgrown with wood and
weeds. Poulaho, the father of the prefent king, is faid to have died
and been interred at Vavao.
The hiftory, if Ambler's report is to be received, is this : that
Poulaho, but more efpecially his wife Mahoofe, of the Doubou fa-
mily, were tyrannical in their government, difpoffeffing the chiefs
arbitrarily, and rendering themfelves odious. Toogahowe was then
chief at Eooa. Her majefty, after Poulaho's deceafe, difmiffed hirri
from his poft, and nominated another. This he refented, and refufed
to fubmit ; and told the meflenger he was a tooa, and not an agee.
Jl'ne.] to the south-sea islands. 253
or chief, elfe he would have challenged him to finglc combat j but
now he had only to depart with his train, or he would put him to
death. The wind blew a ftorm, but he hafled back to his miftrefs,
who inquired the reafon of his return in fuch a gale : he related his
reception ; and flie replied, " T5ogahowe has a mind to be killed,
" I will punifh his infolence." Toogahowe meantime convened the
other chiefs, and urged them to join him in fupport of their privi-
leges. The conflidt proved in their favour, and the queen was
driven to Aheefo, and took flicker at a houfe near ours at Attaboo.
Here flie fat with a garland- of leaves about her neck, and a gooter-
koo in her mouth, which fignified, I crave mercy. T5ogahowe
was going to difpatch her with his tooca-tooca, or fpear, but was
withheld by his followers ; and fhe was fuffered to efcape to the
Harby iflands, where flie now lives in exile. Toogahowe, vidto-
rious, exercifed great cruelties on his enemies, tying fome to trees
and burning them alive, and making great devaftations at the Harby
iflands. In a fight with the people of Vavao, his canoe outfailed
the. reft, and he fought them alone with fuch fury as gained the
vidlory, and raifed the fame of his military prowefs to the higheft
pitch ; fo that he is univerfally dreaded and obeyed. Our mifllon-
aries were witnefl^es to fome of Toogahowe's flivage conduct. One
man who difpleafed him had his hand cut off on the fpot ; and another
was tied up with his arms extended, and two women were ordered with
lighted fticks to burn him under the arm-pits. Our brethren inter-
ceded for him, and happily refcued him from this cruel punifliment.
June I ft. The brethren returned in a failing canoe to Aheefo. Fut-
tafaihe made them a prefent of a hog and twenty yams, and accom-
panied them to a fmall ifland in the bay called Makkahah, which he
had given them.
At Aheefo found feveral chiefs returning to their homes ; one of
them, named Moore, invited Cooper and Gaulton to accompany him
to Ahoge on a vifit, which they accepted. Several of the chiefs
have given us prefling invitations to refide with them, and have of-
2^4 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
fered us houfes, and whatever we can defire ; fo that, whenever we
feparate, there is no fear of wanting an afylum.
4th. Spent the Lord's day as ufual : partook of the holy com-
munion.
5th. Bowell and Harper paid a vifit to Vaarjee, a chief of great
influence in the diftridl of Ardeo : he informed us of fome of the
villanies of Morgan and Ambler, refped:ing feveral things they had
ftolen from us ; and we met fome women dreffed in the ftolen things.
6th. Vaarjee led us a walk acrofs the country to his family
fiatooka. Below the cliff are caverns on which the furf beats, and
the water giiflies back with fiuprifing violence.
7th. Bowell and Harper returned from Ardeo, highly pleafed
with the treatment they had received. Vaarjee inquired earneftly of
Mr, Bowell, if we had any who could affifl women in difficult la-
bours. Two of his fervants attended them with a large mat to
fleep on, and to affure us of hogs and yams whenever we wanted
-them, and an invitation to come to him whenever we pleafed. He
•lives about ten miles from us. His land is the beft cultivated we
have feen •; he has -the largeft diftridt of any chief at Tonga ; and is
■not obliged to furnifh Dugonagaboola with his produce. He em-
:ploys a. great number of fervants in different occupations and labours.
At our return we found the materials ready, and laid at our gate, which
Toogahowe had promiled to enlarge our dwelling. A mattock which
■we fometimes ufed took his fancy, and was given him. Mytyle
ebjedling to another eredlion within the abbey, we fet it up in an
adjoining field, which we propofed to clear and cultivate.
1 0th. Heard that Feenou Lukolallo was ill, and not likely to live.
A pair of pantaloons were flolen. Mytyle had ingratiated himfelf
with us, by his readinefs to teach us the language, and was a very
intelligent man, but we were forry to detedl him in feveral petty
thefts,
nth. Spent -the Lord's day in our ufual manner. Futtafaihc
vifited us, and wiflied we would lliave him. We excufed ourfelves
June.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 255
from doing it, as we never did any manual labour on the odooa day.
Our gracious Father has given us great acceptance in the fight of this
people, who exprefs much furprife at obl'erving how different our
manners are from thofe of our countrymen, whole time is fpent in
idlenefs and profligacy. One of them has four wives, another three,
and the other two. With fuch men it is impoffible for us to maintain
any fellowfhip, and their envy and enmity we bitterly experience.
1 2th. This morning Lukolallo died; and Fenogge, a young
chief, informed us that Morgan and Ambler had been very indiif-
trious of late to irritate the minds of the natives againft us, telling
them that we were only tooas (mean people), and that they were
agees (chiefs), and fons of the king of England. They had alfo
recommended to them to attack and plunder us. After this we did
not think proper to flay in the houfe where we were, but to remove
to one larger, which ftood in the enclofure next to Dugonagaboola, to
which the chief readily confented, and all things except our hogs
were taken thither this evening. However, next day when we went
to fetch them we found the fly broken, and but one remainins; ;
two were near the fly, and after the fl:ri(5lefl: fearch we found only
another : thus our flock was reduced from nine to four.
14th. Ambler and Morgan having heard that we fufpedied them
of having driven off our hogs, came to our houfe, and began to abufc
us ; and Morgan even kicked one of our number. Seeing them
determined to proceed further, a fcufflc enfued ; Morgan again llruck
with his club the perfon he had before kicked j but the blow did no
great injury. They then defifted, finding themfclves overpowered,
but not from uttering the mofl: horrid execrations both on us and alfo
on themfelves if they did not prove bitter enemies, and murder us
before morning.
In the evening we again met to confider further the propriety of
remaining together; when it was obferved, befides the reafon formerly
given, that we made lefs progrefs in the language than we fhould if
256
FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE
[1797-
\\c had only natives to converfe with. After much converfation,
there appeared, on a divifion, eight for parting, againft it two. It
was then agreed, that a divifion of the public property ihould take
place. On acquainting Dugonagaboola with what we had done, he
confented, and pronnifcd to come to our houfe on the 17th, and re-
ceive a prefcnt which we had provided for him.
15th. A divifion of the public property took place. Morgan and
Ambler came again to-day, but more peaceably difpofed. On the
1 6th Connelly came and aded his part. He wanted a clock for
Futtafaihe, and infilled upon having it, faying that it had been pro-
mifed before. But we could not think of complying with fuch pre-
fumptuous demands, efpecially as we knew no fuch promife had ever
been made; therefore he went away much difpleafed. Next day he
came again, and received the fame anfwer. He then fwore he would
do us all the harm he could, and that he would murder the firft of
us he could get into his power. Thus we experience perils among
the heathen, but more from our own countrymen.
Sunday i8th. Buchanan preached from Pfalm Ixxiii. i, 2, 3.
Kelfo, from Heb. iv. 10.
20th. Our vifitors are not half fo numerous now as they have
been, owing in part to a funeral ceremony about three miles from our
habitation. This morning Mytyle fent his fervants with one of
our loft hogs. Vaarjee's funeral fervices ending, he told us he fhould
return in two nights ; and, if we were ready to go with him, would
fend his fervants to remove our luggage ; to which we agreed, and
went to Attaboo to fee our garden ; only a few cabbage-plants had
come up, which we tranfplanted. But Vaarjee being unexpededly
detained four or five nights longer, we returned to our houfe at
Bunghye. Thither in the evening two chiefs brought a fine lad,
with his hands tied together with finnet, and wanted to barter
(fuccatow) him for an axe. We inquired what the lad had done, if
he was enow, a bad boy ; they faid, No, lille doono dofee, allofy
June] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 257
fakow, Good for roafting yams atid running errands. But \vc told
them we were tabooed from all fuch iniquitous practices as felling
our fellow-creatures ; on which they carried him away.
24th. Went to vifit the fiatooka of Fcenou Lukolallo near the
fea at Valoo : it is on a fine plain fliadcd with toa and other trees.
Several people fat round the grave, which was covered with black
cloth, and remarkably clean anJ neat ; we fat down to converfe with
them, and improve the opportunity for their inftrudlion. They
fhewed us two logs of wood rudely carved in a human fhape, which
they faid were odooas brought from Feejee. We told them thcfe
could not be fpirits, but mere pieces of wood fit only for the fire.
Nor did they feem, by the manner in which they toflcd them about,
to have any idea of their fandlity. We have not yet found tb.at they
have priefls, or any ftated ceremonial worlhip, but poflefs many
fupeiftitious notions about fpirits ; and that by flrangling fome rela-
tions of the chief when he is fick, the deity will be appeafed, and
he will recover.
25th. Divine fervice as ufual. Buchanan, i ThefT. v. 9. Kelfo,
Eph. iv. 9.
27th. Shelly and Nobbs accompanied Vaharlo to his houfe at
Ahoge. This chief has fhewn a peculiar attachment to us. Vaarjec
called on us in confequence of a meifage to him from Dugonagaboola,
who did not chufe we fliould leave him, or rather remove with our
effedls to another chief. However, on making him a prefent he con-
fented, alTured us of his cordial regard, and that whenever we came
to Aheefo we fhould have a welcome reception with him.
28th. About a quarter paft three o'clock in the morning we
were much alarmed by a fliock of an earthquake, which lafled
about a minute, during which time the earth kept a continual trem-
bling ; it was fenfibly felt by us all. Our confternation on this oc-
cafion was much increafed by the natives around us, who feemed quite
panic-flruck, and fet up loud cries ; and the furf on the beach made
L L
FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE
[1797-
25«
a greater noife than we ever heard before. This we confidered as a
wonderful exertion of divine power, and a fign at which we beheld
thofe who dwell at the uttermoU parts of the earth trejnble. May
the time haftcn when they flaall learn to know and love Him of whom
they are afraid ! Early in the morning we were vifited by fome of
the natives, to whom we mentioned the earthquake ; the impreflion it
made upon them feemed to be but momentary ; they imputed it to the
odooa (or fpirit), of which they feem to have very confufed notions,
afcribing every thing to it which exceeds their comprehenfion, and
of which they know not the immediate caufe. Ambler fays that it
is the fourth fliock they have had fmce he landed here about eighteen
months ago. To-day brothers Bowell and Harper took their depar-
ture from us, and went to refide with Vaarjee, a principal chief at
Ardeo, about ten miles diflant.
29th. Bowell and Harper embarked with Vaarjee and his mother
Duatonga Fefene, who feems the lirft woman in the ifland, and
was going to Mooa. They landed at a fmall ifland in the bay, where
they flept the firft night.
Nobbs and Shelly returned from Ahoge, where they had felt
the earthquake as fenfibly as we had done, and attended with much
the fame circumftances. They report that they were treated with
the greateft kindnefs, not only by their friend, but by all with whom
they had any intercourfe ; as a proof whereof, they brought two hogs,
two hundred yams, and fix bunches of cocoa-nuts.
30th. Finding Bowell and Harper reading a book, their friend
Vaarjee inquired what it faid ; they endeavoured to make him com-
prehend the facred fubjedl of which it treated, which he feemed to
underftand, and mentioned to his mother, who was fitting by. They
embarked at eight o'clock ; the wind being againft them, they beat
lip to Mooa, and were entertained for the night by Kaneer, a friend
of this chief. The next day, the 31ft, they arrived at Ardeo. Spent
the evening in learning the language ; their friend Vaarjee being an
July.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 259
excellent tutor, and improving every occurrence to make them ac
quainted with the meaning of words, and the names of thmgs, in
the cleareft manner.
July I ft. Dugonagaboola fent for brother Shelly, to inform hmi of his
intended departure to Mooa on Monday next ; and as he was appro
henfive that we might run fliort of provifions in his abfence, he
advifed us to accompany him thither, and oftered to put our property
into a place of fafety till his return, which he propofes in about two
moons, or months ; but as we exped the ftiip much fooner, we thought
it inexpedient to accept this favour. We could not, however, fuffi-
ciently admire the goodnefs of God, who hath the hearts of all men
in his keeping, thus to incline this man to fuch a provident care over
us, notwithftanding the pains our adverlaries have taken to mccnfc
him againft us.
Sunday ad. Brother Buchanan preached in the mornmg from
1 Theff. V. 9. ; brother Kclfo, afternoon, from Matt, xxvii. 35. and
afterwards difpenfed the Lord's fupper.
3d. Brother Veefon went to refide with Mulicemar, in the diftnd
of Ahoge. We now begin to fee fomething of the defigns of Pro-
vidence^'in cafting us at our firft landing into the midft of fuch con-
fufion and diforder as then filled us with apprehenfion for our fafety ;
he at that time not only made daily difplays of his almighty power,
and gracious care, in proteding us from every threatening danger,
but, by colleding a vaft concourfe of ftrangers from every quarter,
both of Tongataboo and the adjacent iflands, and givmg us favour
in their fight, feems already to have opened a door for us to every
part of this extenfive group. We have received prefling mvitat.ons
to feveral of the neighbouring ifiands, which nothing but a want of
the language has prevented us from accepting. But we hope by a
diligent application to remove that obftacle : fo that we now look for
opportunities of promoting the glorious defign in which we are en-
gaged, which at firft we little expcded. " The Lord's way is in
t L 2
26o FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
" the fea, and his path in the great waters, and his footfteps are not
*' known."
4th. At feven in the morning, being nearly anfwerable to the
time when we expedt our friends in London to be engaged in the
like exercife, we held our monthly prayer-meeting, and encouraged
ourfelves with the thought that many of the Lord's people were ear-
ncftly befeeching at a throne of grace in our behalf ; and truft it will
be no fmall comfort to them to know, that he has gracioully heard,
and feems to be giving anfwers of peace, by continually bellowing
on us a rich fupply of every needful blelTmg.
In the afternoon we received a letter from brothers Bowcll and
Harper, acquainting us with their welfare.
7th. We were vifited by the wife and daughter of Mooe, a chief
who refides at Ahoge, and to whom brothers Gaulton and Cooper had
paid a vifit fome time ago. He at that time had given them a large
houfe and plantation, to induce them to refide with him, to which
they confentedj but, being iince prevented, his impatience excited
him to fend this meflage for them. They brought a hog and a large
quantity of yams.
This evening we felt another fhock of an earthquake, but it was
neither fo fenfible nor of fo long duration as the former.
8th. Brother Harper came to fee us, and fays that they are very
comfortable at Ardeo with Vaarjee, who is anxious to indulge them
to the utmoft of his power, and has afhgned them apartments wholly
to themfclves, and is very ready and ufeful in inftruding them in the
language.
Sunday the 9th, brother Buchanan preached from i Theff. v. 9. j
brother Kelfo, from Gen. xxii. i.
lOth. Brother Harper returned home this evening to Ardeo, ac-
companied by brother Wilkinfon.
12th. Laid out the grafs-plot before our houfe, with brother
Wilkinfon's help, in the European ftyle, with the garden; which
July.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 261
we began to cultivate. Taught Vaarjee's men the method of digging
the ground with fpades, and planted fome pine-apples. Vifited a chief
called T5oboocovaloo, a relation of our friend j were eiitertained with
great hofpitality, and received from him a fine fow in pij , and three-
fcore yams, for which, in return, wc gave him two or throe tools,
and fome earthen plates. On the Lord's day having told Tooboo-
covaloo that we did no work, and fpent the whole in the worfliip of
God, he afked with much humour, whether we might cat on that
day ; and having informed him, he very kindly fent us a baked hog,
on which w^e dined together : he gave us alfo a very fine myrtle and
other fhrubs, with pine-apples for our garden, which we planted.
Received alfo a parcel of garden-feeds and a fpadc from Bunghye.
14th. After conflant and heavy rain, which laflcd from morning
until night w^ith little intermiflion, we were vifited with the heavieft
ftorm of thunder and lightning which we have had fince our arrival
on the ifland ; however, fuch weather feems not fo frequent here as
might be exped:ed from the fituation of the country.
15th. The rain ftill continued very heavy all day. In the evening
brother Wilkinfon returned home, having been kindly entertained by
our brethren at Ardeo. On his return he loft his way, and was ex-
pofed to fome danger j but the Lord, who keeps all our goings,
gracioufly preferved him.
1 6th, Sunday. Brother Buchanan difcourfed from Ifaiali,
liv. 13. During the intervals of worlhip we heard a hideous outcry
of the natives towards Bunghye, and were afterwards informed that it
was occafioned by a number of men jufl: arrived from Vavao, who
had repaired to Moom5oe's tomb, to evince their afFedlion and refpedl
by the fame cruel ceremonies as had been obferved at his funeral. O
that the falvation of Ilracl were come forth out of Zion ! When God
brings back the captivity of this people, how will our hearts rejoice to
hear thefe horrid bowlings changed into fongs of praife to Him who
has redeemed his people from death, and ranfomed them from the
26i. FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
power of the grave ! In the afternoon brother Kelfo preached from
Dcut. xxxii. 2.
17th. We were favoured with a vifit from brother Veefon, and a
fon of Mulicemar; they brought a fine hog and yams with them
from that chief, and informed us of the death of Tamaifuma on the
1 3th inftant : he was a chief of great repute for perfonal courage ;
and this circumftance our adverfaries feem to improve to fome pur-
pofe againft us, by making the natives beheve that our God, in
anfwer to our prayers, kills them. This being the third chief that
has died iince our arrival, makes them fay they never died fo fall
before; and imputing all to the fame caufe, they fay, that if we con-
tinue praying and finging, there will not be a chief left alive. This
idea, which could only originate from the father of lies, working in
thefe children of difobedicnce, feems calculated to create us fome
trouble; but ftill it is an unfpeakable comfort to refledl, that it fliall
prevail no farther than is confiftent with the holy, wife, and gracious
defign of our heavenly Father, who, we doubt not, will make his
ftrength perfeifl in our weaknefs, fo that we may boldly fay, " The
" Lord is our helper, we will not fear what man can do unto us."
On the 1 8th the fame idea was mentioned to us by different per-
fons ; it feems to gain ground with them very fall:, and our endea-
vours to perfuade them to the contrary are fruitlefs at prefent. In the
forenoon brother Veefon took his leave; and on Saturday the 22d,
brother Bowell paid us a vifit. In the beginning of the week he had
been at Mooa, where the greateft part of the inhabitants are at prefent
affembled for the celebration of the annual natche. There he found
the minds of the people had received the fame dangerous imprefllon,
and that our countrymen were the fole authors and propagators of it*;
the Lord, however, has gracioufly over-ruled it, fo that it has in fome
degree brought the mifchief they intended us upon their own heads.
When it was firft mentioned to brother Bowell, Vaarjee was prefent,
and was much difpleafed with the perfon who fpoke of it. Ambler
July.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 263
had alfo endeavoured to poifon the mind of Dugonagaboola, who
heard him with great indignation, and hifled him out of his prefcnce.
A few days after, this fellow quarrelled with one of the chief's car-
penters, whom he kicked on the breall, and abufed him otherwife in
a fliocking manner: on this he complained to his maftcr, and
Ambler, inftead of making any acknowledgments for his condud;,
thought proper to juflify it in the moft provoking manner ; upon
which he ordered him from his prelence, threatening his life if he
ever Ihewed his face there more : fince that we hear he has gone to
Futtafaihe; fo that Morgan, Connelly, and he, arc all together,
and, we have no doubt, will be aftive in plotting farther mifchief:
thus their machinations were dcftroyed without our interference.
How true is it, that the wrath of man fliall praife God, and the re-
mainder of wrath he will reftrain, and that no weapon formed againft
his people fliall profper !
23d. Brother Buchanan preached in the morning from Ifaiah,
liv. 13. Kelfo, from Deut. xxxii. 2.; after which brother Bowcll
took his leave.
On the 26th, brother Shelly, who has had the care of our few me-
dicines fince brother Harper left us, went to fee a woman who, with
others, had eaten fome fifh of a poifonous nature, which was likely to
be, to her in particular, attended with bad confequences : an emetic
was adminiflered, which removed the caufe of the diforder, and
reftored the poor woman to health. According to the cuftom of the
country, he received his fee before he returned : this was a roaAed
hog, which is generally killed as foon as the dodor arrives, who is ex-
peded to wait till it is fufficiently roafted ; it is then given to him :
but this being the firfl inflance of the kind, like an inexperienced be-
ginner who knew not the profits of his trade, he divided it chiefly
betwixt the poor woman and her friends. It would be a valuable ac-
quifition to this country, and might be a means of facilitating our
work, to have a good ftock of medicines, and aflcilful perfon to apply
them. The diforders which have principally come under our ob-
264 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
fervation arc, a dyfcntery, of which the perfon is recovered; a dropfy,
of which we have feen but one cafe ; a diforder among the children,
which fpreads all over them like the fmall-pox, and feems of as
loathfome but more inveterate nature ; for we found one in this con-
dition at our firft landing feveral months ago, and there feems no al-
teration upon him as yet ; its long continuance is probably owing to
improper treatment : we know not whether it be infeftious. What
feems moft general is an ulcerous fore, to which they are very fub-
jedt. In one family of our acquaintance there are no lefs than four
perfons much affeded by it : the poor man has loft the ufe of his
limbs entirely, fo that he is not able to ftand upright, and many
parts of his body are afFed.ed ; and what renders his cafe truly
pitiable, his wife is in little better condition j a great part of her
breafts is already confumed, and one leg and arm are very bad. Two
of their fervants are nearly in as bad a ftate as themfelves ; they have
often applied to us for aftiftance, which could we afford them, would
certainly raife us ftill higher in their efteem ; but at prefent we have
neither proper medicines, nor fkill to effcft any thing this way.
In fome cafes we have feen old women apply the juice of the bread-
fruit, tied up in leaves, and made hot, with which they rubbed the
wound ; 'but it feemed to produce no good cffe(5t. As they have not
the leaft idea of phylic, whatever diforder they are attacked with has
its full courfe, and often proves fatal.
24th, The principal wife of Futtafaihe was delivered of her firft
child, the fon and heir of his dominions j on which occafion very
confiderable prefents were made.
25th. The great enudee, or natche, defcribed by Cook, was held
at Mooa. Men in proceffion carried a yam, fufpended on a pole ;
others, armed with ipears, cried aloud to this effed:, " Take care to
" keep the road clear;" and all palTcngers ftood at a confiderable
diftance. Ambler aifured us this was a thankfgiving to the odooa
for the late ripe yams. We were invited to join the proceffion, but
did not chufe to make our flioulders bare, which was required, and
AuGVST.] TO Tim SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 265
to wear the jecjee, a wreath of the leaves of a flirub called jcc, around
our waift. Particular honour is paid to Futtafaihe on this occafion.
The fame ceremonies are repeated at the leafon of early ripe yams.
The ceremonial clofes with an amufement called fatarga, like cudgel-
playing, being fingle combat with the limbs of the cocoa-nut tree.
26th. Vaarjee afTifted us with all his people at our abbey in levelling
the ground, and laying out and planting our garden.
27th. Our chief took a fecond wife, a daughter of Tooboocavallo.
She was accompanied by large bales of anaddoo, or cloth, of Ton-
gataboo. In the afternoon he went to finifh the funeral ceremonies
for his brother, in celebrating the games ufual on that occafion. His
bride remained at home. We felt this afternoon a fenfible fliock of an
earthquake at Ardeo ; and, as ufual, the natives fcreamed. Thefc
(hocks are common, and fometimes, they informed us, fo violent as
to fhake down their trees and houfes.
30th. Brother Buchanan difcourfed from 2 Tim. ii. 3.; brother
Kelfo, from Exodus, xxxiii. 18.
On Monday brothers Gaul ton and Shelly went upon a vifit to
Dugonagaboola at Mooa ; and in the afternoon Moorce (a chief) ar-
rived from Ahoge, and brought with him two canoes, in order to
convey brother Cooper home. This he had promifed fomc time ago;
but the fear that Dugonagaboola would be aftronted at his taking any
of us from under his care, had till now deterred him.
Augufi: I ft. Early this morning Cooper and his friend Moorce
took their departure : he is now the fourth of our number that hath
left us. What end the Lord may have in view by thus fcattering us
about, we know not; but hope that it will tend to the advanccinent of
his glory, by a more general diftufion of the gofpcl over this be-
nighted ifland. About funfet we had another fliock of an earthquake,
which Lifted about a minute and a half, and was felt over the whole
ifland. Ambler, we hear, is again in our neighbourhood.
On the 3d, brothers Gaulton and Shelly returned from Mooa.
where they had met with brother Veefon, who was in health and high
M M
c66 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
favour with his friend ; having lodged one night with him, they re-
ceived a warm rcmonflrance for it next day from Dugonagaboola,
who aflurcd them of a welcome at his houfe, and expected they
would make ufe of no other. After inquiring into our ftate at home,
and how wc fared in his abfence, he informed them of what our vil-
Janous countrymen had faid againfl: us, and exprefled his abhorrence
of them on account of it. On their way home they called at Ardeo,
where our brethren were well, and defired the whole body might meet
once a month for divine dircdiion, and mutual counfel and encou-
Tagcmcnt in our work.
5th. Brother Bowell arrived in the evening; and on fabbath-day
brother Buchanan preached from 2 Tim. ii. 3.; in the afternoon
brother Kelfo, from Ifaiah, liii. 5. ; after which he difpenfed the Lord's
flipper. It is furely an unfpeakable favour that the Lord thus allows us
to hold our folemn feafts in this land, and from time to time is refrefli-
jng us with his abundant goodnefs. If we had the happinefs of feeing
thefe poor creatures around us imprefled with a fenfe of their lofl and
deplorable ftate by nature, and the excellency and fuitablenefs of the
Redeemer's character and falvation, which He has wrought, and the
gofpel reveals ; if we could but once fee them compelled to come in
and partake of our privileges, our joy would be full : however, it be-
comes us not to defpife the day of fmall things, but patiently to wait
for the falvation of the Lord : He hath fpoken good concerning us,
and hath done for us great things, which confirms our hope, that the
day is not far diftant when He will make bare his holy arm in the
fight of the nations, and thefe ends of the earth fhall fee his falvation.
7th. Brother Bowell determining to remain with us till our
monthly prayer-meeting was over, we the next morning embraced the
opportunity of his prefence to hold a meeting of our little body, when
it was agreed that we lliould obferve a general meeting the firft Mon-
day of every month : in the morning, for prayer and religious con-
ference ; and in the afternoon, for colleding matter for the public
journal, reporting progrefs in the language, and confulting with
August.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. ««/
each other on the moil: probable means of carrying our dcfigns into
cfFed: ; alfo that our abfent brethren fhould be made acquainted with
our defign, and invited to join us in it. It was iilfo refolved to hold
a weekly prayer-meeting and conference in our refpedive parties ; and
that the anniverfary of our embarkation, which is juft at hand,
fliould be obferved as a day of public thankfgiving.
9th. In the evening w^e began our weekly meeting : brother
Kelfo opened it with praife and prayer, then read the fccond chapter
of the firft of -Peter, and fpoke from a part of it ; after which the
other brethren fpoke in rotation. That our attention might he- more
particularly fixed on the fubjedl, it was agreed, that, previous to
next week, the port-ion of fcripture to be then difcuffcd Hiould be mado
known ; accordingly brother Buchanan propofed the fccond chapter
of Ephefians. Brother Shelly concluded this prefcnt comfortable op-
portunity in the fame manner as it was begun,
1 0th. The anniverfary of our embarkation completes the firft year
of our miffion, and the moft remarkable of our lives, wherein the
Lord has, in anfwer to the many prayers of his people, and, we hope,
for the accomplifliment of his gracious purpofes, given us numberlefs'
manifeftations of his almighty power, his infinite wifdom, and un-
changeable love. While upon the mighty waters we were the peculiar
objects of his providential care and bounty. His prefence has been
with us in paffing through the fire and water ,• and though they often
feemed to unite their rage and force againft us, and to threaten our
deftrud:ion every moment, they were not permitted to do us any harm.
Some of us, when all help feemed to fail, were raifed from the
opening grave, to praife him in our little aflembly ; and we w^re all
brought in fafety to our defired haven, where his hand has been moft
wonderfully " ftretched out ftill," in opening a door of accefs for us by
the moft unexpeded and improbable means ; in giving us favour in the
fight of the heathen; in preferving us, though defencelcfs and expofed,,
from their rage and inadnefs j and in making all things fublcrvient
M M 3
a6S FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
to his own moft gracious defigns ; in fruftrating the machinations,
and carrying headlong the counfcls of our more heathenifla country-
men, making them produce the very oppofite effeds from what they
intended. Lo ! thefe are a part of his ways j but if we would tell of
all the wonderful things he has done for us, they are more than we
are able to exprefs. " O that men would therefore praife the Lord
" for his goodnefs, and declare his wonderful works to the children
*• of men!"
This day was rendered in fome meafure memorable by the lofs of a
large axe, which was fnatched from one of the brethren while he was
cuttino- fire- wood : and in the evening fome thieves broke into our
dwelling while we ilept, and rifling the firft box they came to, which
held nothing but medicines, they had gone off with a quantity of
bark, jalap, nitrc, &c. ; but thefe not fuiting their tafte, they left
them in the yard, where we found them next morning, fo that they
got only a few clothes that lay upon the chefts.
nth. John Connelly fent to know whether we intended to in-
form Captain Wilfon of what had paffed between us and them, ob-
fcrving, that, if we did, it would reduce us to the greateft ftraits, as it
would both prevent them from receiving thofe things they expeded,
and had promifed to the natives ; and alfo effectually hinder their de-
parture with him for China. This was accompanied with a hint of
what we might expedt, if our condud was not fuitable to their
wilhes. In anfwer we faid, that we neither wanted to injure nor to
quarrel with them; and if they chofe to go to China, we would be
no hindrance to them.
12th. Dugonagaboola fent us a prefent of provifions, v/hich was
very acceptable ; but in the courfe of the day we received the morti-
fying intelligence, that he had accepted our large axe with much cor-
diality from the perfon who ftole it ; and after fome compliments to
his dexterity, had fent him off to Vavao, to be out of the way wheri
the Ihip arrived. This adion gave ua an idea of what we might ex-
August.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 269
pcdl when our intercft flood in any degree in competition with that
of our noble friend; and yet, ftrange as the contradidion feemcd, all
our goods were every day in his power if he chofe to plunder us.
13th. Brother Buchanan preached from 2 Tim. ii. 3. ; and bro-
ther Kelfo, from Ifaiah, Iv. 6. The remainder of this week nothing
remarkable happened till Saturday the 19th, when one of the natives
brought us the reviving news of the fhip's arrival at her former flation.
Three of our number, viz. brothers Kelfo, Buchanan, and Gaulton,
fet out in queft of a canoe to carry them to her ; but after a fruitlefs
endeavour to procure one, Buchanan and Gaulton determined to travel
by land, which brother Kelfo declined, flill entertaining a hope of
foon procuring a canoe. After travelling about fevcn miles along the
beach, they were met by a great number of the natives, one of whom*
prcfented them with a note, which brother Bowell had difpatched for
their information at Aheefo. This man had brought us fcveral
meflages of the fame kind on former occafions ; and underflanding
the nature of it better than any of his countrymen, he had endea-
voured to explain the ufe of it to thofe who were with him : this ex-
cited their curiofity to a degree which induced them to bear him com-
pany, in order to fee it delivered, and know thereby whether or not
what he faid was true. When they faw the joy which the opening
of it gave the brethren, they feemed ftruck with amazement ; and
were perplexed in no fmall degree, when they perceived that by
means of it they knew as well as themfelves that the Ihip had
arrived, and where fhe lay. The whole company, together with
the bearer of the note, foon left the brethren, in order to returrv to
the fhip, for which they were fo eager, that nothing could induce
him to proceed to Aheefo with the note. In the afternoon the two
brethren arrived at the fhip, and had the happinefs to find that all on
board had frelli ground whereon to ered: an Ebenezer to the Lord,
who had gracioufly helped them through many imminent dangers,
and preferved them from many evils wherewith they had been fur-
^70 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
rounded. Surely his goodnefs exceeds all fearch. O for hearty
formed to flicw forth his praife !
20th. Brother Buchanan preached on board from Pfalm V. 12.^
and brother Bovvellin the afternoon.
On the 2 1 ft, early, many of the principal chiefs came on board,
among whom was Futtafaihe, who, as foon as he faw brother
Buchanan, renewed his felicitations for him to go and live with him,
at the fame time reminding him of a promife to that purport, given on
our firft arrival, alfo of the feveral proofs of his favour fince beftowed ;
and, with frelli aflurances of his love and efteem, promifed, on his
part, to render every thing as agreeable as was in his power, and to
remove every obftacle, if brother Buchanan would but mention them
to him : this, however, at prefent he declined to do ; but the chief
being well acquainted with the recent villany of Connelly (who has
rcfidcd with him ever fince he came to the ifland) and his aiTociates,
Ambler and Morgan, aiked if he was unwilling to live with Con-
nelly, and being anfwered in the affirmative, he immediately pro-
pofed to bind him hand and foot, and bring him on board j but this
propofal was at this time rejedted, it being more defirable to Captain
Wilfon, and all concerned, that thefe fellows lliould come on board
as they had promifed, and depart of their own accord. Brother
Buchanan could not help looking upon this as a plain call of Provi-
dence, and determined in his own mind to comply with it if he
could find another brother willing to accompany him, and if the pro-
pofal alfo met with the approbation of Captain Wilfon, and the
brethren on board, which it did. Brother Gaulton readily confented
to be his partner. When their intention was communicated to
Futtafaihe, he exprefled great fatisfadion, and immediately invited
them to go on fliore, and chufe a place for their future refidence. In
the afternoon brother Shelly arrived from Aheefo, and informed us
that the thieves had paid another vifit, and carried off a duck.
22d. Brother Gaulton went to Aheefo, in order to bring his own
August.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. a 71
and brother Buchanan's cheft, and other things, to Mooa, where
Futtafaihe had given them their choice of a number of beautiful
dwelhngs, fituated between his houfe and the lagoon, which runs into
that part of the country ; and after chufing one about two hundred
yards from his own, they returned on board.
23d. Connelly having heard of our being at Mooa yefterday with
Futtafaihe, thought that our bufinefs had been to take him and his
companions on board ; he therefore came to fpeak to the captain con-
cerning it, who informed him that he had no dcfirc to proceed after
that manner; but if he and the others chofe to fliip as feamen, they
fhould have the fame wages and treatment as his own failors had. To
this Connelly faid he would return an anfwer in fix days, in which
time he would confult with his comrades.
Fefene Duatonga, the firft woman on the ifland, came on board
with her principal lady in waiting : their hair was plaftcrcd up with
a compofition which very much refembled the powder and pomatum
of a fine-dreffed London belle. Her feet are kiffed in token of
homage by all who approach her j and fuch are her ideas of her own
dignity, that flie admits no fixed hufband as a companion, but co-
habits with thofe of the chiefs whom flie pleafes to feledt, and has
feveral children. A fine boy of about twelve years old attended her on
board. Several prefents of fciffars were made, which highly pleafed
them; and when they left the fliip they jumped overboard, and
waflied the fnow-white decoration from their hair before they paddled
on fhore with their canoe. Brother Wilkinfon brought off a fine
bunch of turnips of their firft crop, which had been almoft wholly
deflroyed by the rats. They contrived a trap, in which they caught
a great many, which were given to the women at their rcquefl:, and
eaten raw as relifliing food. Sent fome cats to the mifTionaries, the
firfl which were ever introduced into the ifland.
26th. The noble lady vifited tlie flaip to-day with two or three fe-
male attendants ; and the captain fent her on fliore higlily delighted in
an elegant Englifli drcfs which had been referred for fuch an occafion.
^7*
FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE
[1797-
Our time this week was chiefly employed in dividing, and carrying
to our reCpcdivc places of refidence, the part of the cargo which, in
the divifion at Otaheitc, had fallen to our Ihare. In it we found fuch
an immenfc quantity of ufeful and neceffary iron tools of all forts, as
far exceeded our greatefl expedlation, and filled the natives with
aflonifhmcnt. Our warmeft acknowledgments are due, and muft
fall infinitely Ihort of our obligations, to the divine Author of all
our mercies, who hath put it into the hearts of his people to provide,
and of his honoured fervants, the diredors, to bellow on us fo
bountiful a fupply of every thing that could be devifed for our com-
fort, and the furtherance of the work in which we are engaged ;
but efpecially for the wonderful manner in which he has prepared,
brought forward, and preferved our dear captain, whom we cannot
but efleem as the greatefl teftimony of the divine favour beflowed
on our fociety. While on the voyage, the profperity and furtherance
of the work feemed to enjirofs his whole attention. To his induljrent
care in procuring and allowing us every comfort that could be enjoyed
by people in our circumflances, might be imputed that extraordinary
degree of health which we enjoyed. His counfel and advice has often
guarded us from the intrufion of difcord. His converfation was
wholly calculated to ftimulate our zeal. In our abfence he has been
mindful of our interefls, and has effedlually prevented every com-
plaint. The affability and kindnefs of his condudt among the
natives has won him their affedlions : and indeed in ivhat we have
reafon to believe is his principal aim, he has fucceeded wonderfully,
that is, to adorn the dodtrinc of God our Saviour in all things.
May the Lord enable us to do likewife, and fill our hearts with gra-
titude to himfelf, and to all the inflruments of his unbounded good-
nefs ! May we walk as children of fo many mercies ; and knowing
that we are but flewards of thofe gifts of his providence for which we
muft ere long give an account, may we be led to devote ourfelves,
and all our enjoyments, to his praife and glory, that we may give in
cur .account with joy in the day of our Lord Jefus !
Sept.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 273
CHAPTER XVI.
Def crip t ion of Tongataboo.
vJUR dear friends and bencfad:ors in the diredlion may juftly look
for fome account of this country, where the Lord in his gracious pro-
vidence, through their inftrumentality, has placed us ; and we think
ourfelves bound, in gratitude to them, to furnifh them with the fulled
information in our power : but in this attempt we find ourfelves much
at a lofs for want of the Rev. Mr. Grcatheed's manufcript account of
thefe iflands, which happened to be left at Otaheite, and which if
we had brouo-ht with us, would have been ufeful in direcftins: our at-
tention to feveral objed;s which may have efcaped our notice, Not-
withftanding the numerous invitations we have received to vifit other
iflands of this group, we have not as yet feen it our duty to comply,
as, for want of the language, fuch vifits could be no way profitable to
the natives, and would have expofed us to {0 many unneceffary
temptations.
Our obfervations mufi: tlierefore be wholly confined to Tongataboo ;
the fituation, extent, and produd: of which are already fo well known,
that there remains but little to be faid concerning it. Captain Cook's
account is in general fo accurate as to render very little addition or cor-
redtion neceffary ; however, a fpace of many years which has elapfed
fince his laft voyage, has produced fome changes which it may not be
improper to communicate. On our arrival we found few of his old
friends remaining, and their number has fince been reduced by death j
but his name is ftill mentioned with great refped: by many of their
fucceflbrs, who recoiled: his favours beftowed upon them when in a
N N
274 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
ftate of childhood, which they often relate in a manner that bcfpeaks
them to be by no means dcftitute of gratitude.
The government of Tongataboo is fo complex in itfelf, and the
natives' account of it fo different, each taking a particular pride in
exalting his own chief above others, that it is difficult to come at any
certainty concerning it. The following appears to us moft conflftent
with the truth.
This ifland bears an unrivalled fovereignty over the whole group,
Feejee not excepted. The inhabitants of Feejee having long ago dif-
covered this ifland, frequently invaded and committed great cruelties
in it; but in an expedition which the Tonga people made againfl
them lately, under the command of Toogahowe, Filatonga, and
Cummavie, they completely routed and brought them into fubjedlion,
lb that they now pay tribute to Tongataboo on certain occafions, the
fiime as the other iflands, of which we faw an inflance at the death af
Moomooe. Tongataboo is divided into three large diftridts, viz.
Aheefo, at thenorth-weflend, over which Dugonagaboola reigns with
abfolute fway. Mooa, the middle diflrid;, is under the fame fub-
jedlion to Futtafaihe j and Vaharlo has the fame power over Ahoge,
fituate at the fouth-eaftpart, each claiming a right of difpoflil over the
lives and property of his own fubjefts, which we have feen exercifed
mofl: defpotically. Thefe diftridts are fubdivided into many fmaller
ones, which have their refpedtive chiefs prefiding over them, and ex-
crcife the fame authority as the fuperior chiefs, to whom they are
neverthelefs, in fome cafes, accountable for their condud: ; fo that the
whole refembles the ancient feudal fyilem of our anceftors . The go-
vernment feems to have been formerly more in the hands of the
Futtafaihes than at prefent. Upon the death of the late Poulaho,
father of the prefent Futtafaihe, Duatonga being then a minor,
the intolerant ambition of his widow, Mahoofe, of the Toubou (or
rather Doubou) family, led her to attempt extending her power in fome
particulars further than any of her predeceffors had done. This was
tamely fubmitted to by all the other chiefs, except Feenou Toogahowe,
Sept.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 275
now Dugonagaboola, fon of Moomooe, and nephew of Fcenou, the
celebrated friend of Cook : he at that time reigned over Eooa, and
rejecting her propofals, declared war againft her, contrary to the rc-
monflrances of all his friends ; he however fucceedcd, drove her en-
tirely from this ifland to Vavao, whither he alfo followed, and
having reduced her to fubmilTion, left iier there, where Hie ftill re-
mains in a ftate of exile.
The people fully anfwer to the moft fiivourable reprefentations
the world has ever received of them ; for furely no appellation
was ever better applied than that given to them by our country-
men, of which they feem very proud, fmce we made them ac-
quainted with it, and very fludious to render themfelvcs more dc-
fcrving of it. They pofTefs many excellent qualities, which, were
they enlightened with the knowledge of the gofpel, would render
them the moft amiable people on earth ; for inllance, their bounty
and liberality to ftrangers is very great, and their gcnerofity to one
another unequalled. It is no uncommon thing for them to complain
they are dying of hunger, and, as foon as they receive a morfel, to divide
it among as many as are prefent, the firft receiver generally leaving
himfelf the fmalleft fliare, and often none at all. When they kill a
hog, or make any mefs for themfelves, there is always a portion fent
to their friends, who return the favour as foon as their circumftances
will admit; which keeps up a conftant friendly communication among
them, and which we have never feen interrupted by any quarrel,
during a flay of more than four months.
Their honefly to one another feems unimpeachable, though we
have no reafon to think the accounts of their dilhonefty to flrangers
exaggerated. The murder of children, and other horrid pracflices,
which prevail among the Otahciteans, are unheard of here. Their
ihildren are much indulged, and old age honoured and revered. Fe-
cial;; chaftity is not much elleemed among the lower orders, it being
,■1 common pradice with the chiefs, in our vifits to them, to offer
fonie of their females to fleep with us j the pradiccs of our aban-
N N 2
2^6 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
doned countrymen making them believe this a favour we could not
well do without. Our firft refufal fecmed to excite a furprife, but
has cTcnerally prevented a fecond temptation from the fame perfon.
Unchaftity among females of rank, and efpecially after marriage, we
have heard is puniflied with feverity ; however, we have not as yet
known an inftance.
Their marriages are attended with very little ceremony ; the only
one we have feen was that of Vaarjee, with whom brothers Bowell and
Harper have been fome time refident. This was condudcd in the fol-
lowing manner : A young female having attra6ted his attention, he
firft informed his mother that he wifhed to add her to the number of
his wives. She immediately communicated this to the damfel's
father, and the propofal meeting his approbation, he clothed her in a
new garment, and with attendants, and fuch a quantity of baked
hogs, yams, yava root, &c. as he could afford, fhe was fent to her
intended fpoufe, who being apprifed of her coming, feated himfelf in
his houfe, and received her in the fame manner, and with as little
emotion, as he would have done any other vifitor : feafting on the
provifions, and a good draught of yava, concluded the whole, and
the bride was at liberty either to return to her father till again fent for,
or to take up her refidence with her hufband, which, in this inftance,
fhe preferred. Polygamy is in common pradlice among the chiefs,
each of whom takes as many wives as he pleafes ; but they are entire
ftrangers to domeftic broils, which may, in a great degree, be owing
to the abfolute power each man has over his own family, every woman
being fo much at her hufband 's difpofal, as renders her liable to be
difcarded on the fmallefl difpleafure.
Their deities are numerous j and though we have hitherto been able
to fay but little to them on this fubjed, we have reafon to think their
prejudices are ftrong. Every diftridt has its own deity; and each
family of note has one, whom they confider as their peculiar patron.
Talliataboo is the god of Aheefo, which being at prefent the moft
powerful, he is accounted a great warrior. Futtafaihe prefides over
4
Sept.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 277
Mooa and Doobludha, Cartow over the diflridl of Ahoge ; each of
which deities are on certain occafions reprefentcd by the fcveral chiefs
of thofe diftrid:s ; fo that we find their natches and other annual
exhibitions are not mere pubhc amufcments, but religious obfcrvances,
whereon they think the hves and health of their chiefs, for whom
they have great afrediion, entirely depend ; as likewifc the profperity
of the country in general : expcd:ing the fucceeding crop will be in
proportion to the offerings made at thefe times. They have two
natches in the year, one when their yams are fct, to procure the
favour of Futtafaihe ; and the other when they gather them in, ex-
preffive of their gratitude. The winds they fuppofe to be under the
control of a female, called Calla Filatonga, who, they fay, is very
powerful, but is little regarded by them, and is therefore fometimes
provoked to blow down their cocoa-nut, plantain, bread-fruit, and
other trees, and commits fuch ravages as oblige them to bring offer-
ings of hogs, yams, and kava, in the moft humble and fubmiffive
manner, to a houfe facred to her, where a perfon is appointed to per-
fonate her on the occafion, and receive the offering that is made. Thefe
florms being very unfrequent, and generally over before appeafing
meafures are taken, the reprefentative is in little danger of being
detected of falfehood by returning a favourable anfwer. This
office of perfonator is only temporary, being always chofen for the
occafion.
We have feen no perfon among them that feems more religious
than another, or any thing that could lead us to fuppofe there
is any fuch charad:er as a priefl among them. In all the offer-
ings they make, each man kills and prefents his own facrifice. Their
frequent earthquakes they account for by fuppofing the ifland reffs
upon the flioulders of a very powerful deity called Mowee, who has
fupported it for fuch a length of time as exceeds their conceptions.
This heavy burden often exhaufts his patience, and then he endeavours,
but in vain, to fhake it off; which, however, never fails to excite a
horrid outcry over the whole country, that lafts for fome time after
278 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
the fhock is over : and we have fometimes feen them endeavour to
quell his difcontent, and reduce him to good behaviour, by beating
the ground with large flicks. Tongaloer, the god of the fky, and
Fenoulonga, of the rain, they fuppofe to be males ; befides thefe, they
have a great many others of both fexes, whofe names we cannot enu-
merate, over earth, fea, and fky, each ading in their proper fphere, and
fometimes counteracting one another, according as intereft or inclination
leads them. They alfo acknowledge the exiftence of a great number of
ftrange gods, calling them by the general name of Fyga, among whom
they rank ours as the greateft; and, when they think it will anfwer their
purpofe, they will readily acknowledge him as far wifer, and in every
relpc6t better than theirs, having taught us to make fo much better
Ihips, tools, cloth, &c. than they have ever been able to do. Be-
fides thefe, they imagine every individual to be under the power and
control of a fpirit peculiar to himfelf, which they call odooa, who
interefls himfelf in all their concerns, but, like Calla Filatonga, is
little regarded till angry, when they think he inflidls upon them all
the deadly diforders to which they are fubjcd:; and then, to appeafe
him, the relations and other connexions of the afflidled perfon, efpe-
cially if he be a chief, run into all the inhuman pradices of cutting
off their little fingers, beating their faces, and tabooing themfelves
from certain kinds of food. Human facrifices feem little in
practice : the only vidlims to fuperfl:ition which we have feen are
already mentioned in the cafe of Moomooe j though, at our arrival.
Ambler informed us, that when a great chief lay fick they often
ftrangled their women, to the number of three or four at a time.
When the odooa is inexorable, the death of the perfon is inevitable
and fure, and the furviving friends feem for a fhort time inconfolable;
but their grief is foon changed into the oppofite extreme, and they
run into as great extravagances in their feafts as when the forrowful
pafiTions prevailed they inflided on themfelves fufferings.
They believe the immortality of the foul, which at death, they fay,
is immediately conveyed in a very large fafi:-failing canoe to a diftant
Skpt.] to the SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 279
country, called Doobludha, which they defcribc as rcfembhng the
Mahometan paradife. They call the god of this region of pleafure
Higgolayo, and cftecm him as the greateft and moft powerful of all
others, the reft being no better than fcrvants to him. This dodrine,
however, is wholly confined to the chiefs, for the tooas (or lower
order) can give no account whatever ; as they reckon the enjoyments
of Doobludha above their capacity, fo they feem never to think of
what may become of them after they have ferved the purpofes of this
life. We have not been able to learn what ideas they form of the
origin of their exiftence, or any other parts of the creation ; when
fpoken to on thefe fubjedls they feem quite loft ; this may, how-
ever, be owing to the inaccuracy of our expreflions, arifnig from an
imperfed: knowledge of the language, which has hitherto prevented
us from oppofing any of thofe grofs abfurdities. But we look forward
to that happy day when the glorious fun of righteoufnefs will arife,
and turn this fliadow of death into the morning.
The produce of this ifland is already fo well defcribed, that it feems
unneccfTary to fay thing of it here. We have been able to add very
little to it. Our feeds, which have been fown in different parts, bid
fair to do well : this induces us to think any kind of European feeds
would thrive here, were it not for the rats, which deftroy them as
they appear above ground. Rats, with hogs, dogs, and guanoes,
were the only quadrupeds we found here. The cattle left by Capt.
Cook have been all deftroyed fome years ago : the horfe and mare
having been firft gored by the bull, gave the natives an idea of his
furious temper, and put them in terror for themfelves ; therefore, to
prevent any bad accident taking place, they deftroyed him, with
the cow and three young ones, which, they informed us, were all
they had produced, except one young bull which had been previoufly
taken to Feejee. Captain Wilfon, in his fecond viiit, has left us
eio-ht goats, three cats, and an Englilh do":, of which the natives
are very fond, and which we hope will be ufeful in their proper
places. The death of a ram at Otaheite prevented us from receiving
J. So FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
any flieep, which we eftccm a great lofs, as there is abundance of
excellent food for thofe ufcful animals in the moft negledted parts of
this ifland, and they might in time prove a great advantage to the
natives, not only by fupplying their deficiency of food, from which
many of them fuffer much at prefent, but by leading them into habits
of induftry, to which they are Grangers ; for though they are more
induflrious than moft of their neighbours fcattered about this fea, far
the greater part of their time is fpent in idlenefs. This conjedure
receives much ftrength from the earneft defire they exprefs for our
■woollen clothes, efpecially blankets ; which induces us to think, if
they had the materials, and the leaft hint how to make ufe of them,
they would foon endeavour to manufacture them themfelves.
The foil is every where prolific, and confifts of a fine rich mould,
upon an average about fourteen or fifteen inches deep, free from ftones,
except near the beach, where coral rocks appear above the furface.
Beneath this mould is a red loam four or five inches thick ; next is a
very ftrong blue clay in fmall quantities ; and in fome places has been
found a black earth, which emits a very fragrant fmell refembling
bergamot, but it foon evaporates when expofed to the air. The air
is pure and wholefome, much fliarper in the winter than we expelled
to have found it, efpecially when the wind is from the fouthward ;
but for want of a thermometer, which happened to be broken, we
have never been able to afcertain its true ftate.
But we muft conclude our prefent account, hoping our next will
contain fomething more interefting and encouraging to our dear friends,
whofe prayers we earneftly entreat in our behalf; for furely never men
in the world ftood more in need of their afliftance in this refped: than
we do. Our work is great, our ftrength is fmall, very weaknefs itfelf ;
our enemies are crafty and powerful, but none we find fo dangerous as
thofe of our own houfe, thofe evil hearts of unbelief that are always
ready to draw us from the God of our ftrength, who is the rock of our
falvation. But if ' God be for us, who can be againft us ? He bids
us fear not : and we have not only the afifurance of his word, but
SEPT.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 281
alio the tcftimony of his providence, that he is with us, and will
never leave us nor forfake us. Well then may we go on in divine
ftrength, rejoicing in the profpeds of graiter tribulations than wc
have hitherto experienced, or at prefent have in view ; trufting him
that in every conflid: which we may be called on to fuftain under
the banner of the glorious Captain of our falvation, wc fliall grow
ftronger and ftrongcr, and at length be brought off" the field more
than conquerors through Him who hath loved us, and given himfelf
for us.
The Duff" is now unmooring. We feel all the anguifli that is con-
fequent upon a feparation of iriends who are bound together by fuch
endearing ties as fliall endure when thofe of nature fliall be for ever
diflblved. Befides our dear captain, we cannot but efteem many of
the officers and crew as children of the fame family with ourfelves :
all of whom, ourfelves, and all our concerns, both for time and
eternity, we defire to refign to the fovereign difpofal of our gracious
heavenly Father, and to the word of his grace, which is able to keep
us from falling, and give us all an inheritiince among them that are
fandified through faith which is in Jefus Chrift. Farewell. May
grace, mercy, and peace be multiplied to all who love our Lord Jefus
Chriil: in fincerity, and are fceking.tlie. advancement of his kingdom
and glory ! Amen.
Tongataboo Roads, Sept. 6th, 1797.
-o o
28a FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
CHAPTER XVII.
Tranfa^ions at Tongataboo during the Ship's Stay.
1 HUS far I have written from the brethren's journal, judging that,
though repetitions would unavoidably occur by this plan, the inci-
dents related as they happened would enable thofe interefted to form
a better idea both of the natives and the real (ituation of the miiTion-
aries, than by any other method I was able to purfue; for perhaps
from things which I might have palTed over, fome fkilful friend
would draw ufeful and interefting inferences.
And as I have brought it up to the day we left thofe dear fervants
of our bleffed Lord, there remains but little to be fiid concerning
what pafTed at the fhip j as during this flay, which was twenty days,
the whole was fpent in one continued intercourfe of friendfhip and
fervice between us and the natives : every day we were vifited by fome
or other of them j they laid us in a very large fea-ftore of fine yams,
and as many hogs as we were willing to accept ; for the flock of
thefe which we had brought from Otaheite was ftill fufHcient to take
to fea. Some boars and fows of the larger fize we exchanged with
them for others, and had the fatisfadiion to hear that a fow thus
exchanged to Vaarjee, Bowell and Harper's chief, had a few days
after farrowed nine pigs. For articles of iron they will ven-
ture any thing. On our firfl arrival an iron hoop was flolen off the
windlafs end ; but as no perfon was fuffered to come on board till we
got it again, it was returned next day by Futtafaihe. Several other
things of lefs confequence were flolen, but as the captain did not like
to break the harmony which fubfifled for the fake of them, they were
never recovered. Among other things, the cook's axe was flolen; and
Sept.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 283
to give our friends an idea of the fmall value of a few glittering gui-
neas in the eyes of thefe people, when put in competition with a ufeful
iron tool, the captain gave the cook ten new guineas to purchafe another
axe from the natives; but his endeavours to make fuch a purchafe were
vain, they only laughed at him for his offer. Bcfides iron, our cloth and
fmall blue and green beads were in high eftimation among them ; and
fome of them even defired us to bring fuch on our next vifit. They
alfo valued nails, efpecially of the larger fort. But it may be obfei-ved
that they are fo fcrupulous in dealing, that they generally ftand for the
full value of every thing.
The captain was never on fliore, and each of us was only permitted
one day at Mooa, for pleafure. As we refufcd to have any diverfions
adled for our entertainment, left the idea of pleafing might lead
them to excefles inexcufable on our part, none of their cuftoms
of this nature were witnefTcd by us, but I fuppofe them to be fully
defcribcd by Captain Cook. The day before we failed I went to
Mooa in the pinnace, accompanied by Mr. Falconer, Mr. Robfon,
and my brother James Wilfon. Several hundreds of the natives lined
the fhore, part of them entreating us to go firft to Futtafaihe, and
the other part for us to vifit Dugonagaboola firft. As I had previoufly
promifed the former, we repaired to him, and were received with
great ceremony ; and when we had fpent fome time with him we
vifited the other chief, whom we found near the beach, feated with
about an hundred others round a bowl of kava, part of which
they offered to us ; but the gee root only fuited our tafte. This, being
what they conclude their morning's repaft with, is fweet as fugar-
cane, and greatly refembles if, being only a little more pafty. Both
chiefs treated us well; Futtafaihe roafted a large hog for our dinner,
after which he accompanied us to the fiatookas of his anccftors : they
lie ranged in a line eaftward from his houfe, among a grove of trees,
and are many in number, and of different conftrudtions : fome, in a
fquare form, were not in the leaft raifed above the level of the com-
mon ground j a row of large ftones formed the fides, an^ at each
002
a84
FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE
['797-
-
c
Ov
5ffeet.
CO
'a
On
5lfeet.
CO
.=
c^
5|feet.
rn
TJ
Profile ofthe Steps..
-^ :
'I-
corner two high ftones were placed upright at right angles to each
other, and in a line with their refpedlive fides : others were fiich as
the brethren delcribe that of Moom5oc to be : and a third lort were
built fquare like the firft j the largcft of which was at the bafe one
hundred and fifty-fix feet -by one hundred and forty ; it had four
Heps from the bottom to the
. J 1 Top.
top, that run quite round the
pile : one flone compofcd the
height of each ftep, a part of
it being funk in the ground ;
and fome of thefe fVones in the
wall of the lower are immenfely
large j one, which I meafured,
was twenty-four feet by twelve,
and two feet thick ; thefe Futta-
faihe informed us were brought
in double canoes from the ifland
of Lefooga. Thev are coral ftone, and are hewn into a tolerably
good fhape, both with refped: to the ftraightnefs of their fides and'.
flatnefs of their furfaces. They are now fo hardened by the weather,
that the great difficulty we had in breaking a fpecimen of one corner
made it not eafy to conjefture how the labour of hewing them at firft
had been efFedied j as, by the marks of antiquity which fome of
them bear, they mufl: have been built long before Tafman Ihewed the
natives an iron tool. Befides the trees which grow on the top and fides
of mofi: of them, there are the etooa, and a variety of other trees about
them ; and thefe, together with the thoufands of bats which hang
on their branches, all contribute to the awful folemnity of thofe fe-
pulchral manfions of the ancient chiefs. On our way back Futta-
faihe told us that all. the fiatookas we had feen were built by his
anceftors, who alfo lay interred in them;- and as there appeared no
reafon to doubt the truth of this, it proves that a fupreme power in
the government of the ifland muft for many generations have been in.
Sept.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 285
the family of the Futtafuihes : for though there were many fiatookas
in the ifland, the brethren, who had fecn moft of them, laid they
were not to be compared to thefe for magnitude, either in the pile or
the ftones wliich compofc them.
One of his wives was lying-in at this time, and we were con-
dudled to the apartment where Ihe was : it was extremely neat, and the
floors were covered with mats. Both herfelf and the child had their
fkins coloured with turmeric, which gave them a glittering appear-
ance, and they faid this was their cuftom with women in childbed.
She had feveral female attendants ; and though Futtafaihe has many
other children, all the people feemed elate and glad on this occafion.
During our flay we vifited feveral chiefs of both fexes, and received
prefcnts from each of them. As the evening approached we took
our leave, and returned to the flaip.
Mooa is a beautiful place, efpecially where Futtafaihe's houfe ftands.
Proceeding from the lagoon about a quarter of a mile through fenced
lanes, a fpacious fquare green about half a furlong wide opens itfelf;
at the farther end of which the dwelling ftands : on the fame green,
which is as fmooth as if rolled, a few large fpreading trees grow in
an irregular difpofition, which add much beauty to the fcene. On
the eaft fide is a neat fence enclofing the long grove where the fiatookas
fland } on the weft are the dwellings of different chiefs m their enclo-
fures ; and along the north or lower fide of the fquare, the great
road runs from one end of the ifland to the other : this road is in
general about fix or feven yards wide, but eaftward from the green,
and for half a mile, it is not lefs than fixty yards wide. In this part
there is a range of trees as large and fpreading as the largefl: Englifh
oaks j and as their branches meet at the top, and quite exclude the fun's
rays, a pleafant walk is afforded by their fliade. Clofe by thefe,
l)rothers Buchanan and Gaulton are fituated.
286 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
CHAPTER XVIII.
Pajfage from Tongataboo to China,
On Thurfday morning, the yth of September, we weighed, and
failing from Tongataboo by the northern paffage, paiTed clofe by
tlie fmall iflands of Honga Harpy and Honga Tonga ; thefe are
both moderately high, and appear fertile: at four P.M. they bore
E.S.E. twenty-two miles diftant. After which we fleered N.W. per
compafs one hundred and twenty-fix miles, and weft thirty-two
miles. Obferved at noon on the 8th in 18" 43^ 8. and fuppofed
that a current was fetting us to the weft ward. From noon till half
paft five P. M. we fteered W. by S. thirty-nine miles -, then hove to
for two iflands, the fouthernmoft of which bore S.W. | S. and the
northernmoft \V. by N. diftance from the latter feven leagues. The
former had a remarkable flat top, on which account we called it
Table ifland. A little before we hove to, the time-keeper gave
the longitude of the (hip 182" 5' E. Before dark we could fee
other iflands further to the wefl:ward, and fuppofed them either the
fame, or very near to thofe. Captain Bligh firft fell in with after
leaving Tofoa in the launch.
We had briflc gales and a hollow fea all the night ; about fix hours
we lay with the fhip's head to the northward, then wore to the
fouthward till daylight j in which lafl: fpace of time we muft have
pafltd clofe to a dangerous reef, named in the chart Providence
reef J but as nothing of this kind was in fight before dark, we had
no apprehenfion of reefs lying in our way ; and even when the day
broke we thought we had a clear fea, and at fix o'clock bore away,
Sept.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 287
and run W. N.W. about half an hour, when we difcovcred feveral
iflands befides thofe we had feen on the preceding evening ; and
perceived that extenfive reefs furrounded every one of them. In
viewing our fituation from aloft it appeared very critical, and occa-
lioned the ifland ahead to be called Danger ifland. A little from
this ifland S. E. lay three or four fmall iflets, and a coral reef ex-
tended about three or four miles S. E. from them. On our ftarboard
quarter another reef trended to the N.E. further than we could fee,
as the weather was hazy. Thus were we running direftly for Danger
ifland, and leaving thofe extenfive reefs upon each quarter, when
the fight of many more iflands gave us reafon to fuppofe that to
attempt a pafTage through them would be hazardous, if not impradi-
cable. We hauled, therefore, our wind, fet what fail the fhip could
bear, and tried to work out by the way we came in. The gale in-
creafing, and the fea running very high, we had little hopes at firfl:
of gaining ground, or that the fliip would ftay in fo heavy a fea.
However, fhe never miffed fl:ays but once; the tide likewife ap-
peared to be in our favour; for, after making a few tacks, at half
paft nine A. M. we paffed to windward of the S. E. reef, and flood
towards Table ifland. As we ran along we faw a large fpace to
leeward free from reefs, which almofl tempted us to bear away ; but
proceeding further, the iflands to the S.W. appeared connedled by
them. Therefore we determined to get to the north by the eafl: of
them ; though there is no doubt but, in fine weather, a paffage
might be found as well here as among thofe through which we
afterwards had to thread the needle. All this day and the night
was fpent in plying to windward. On the morning ot the 10th
paffed Providence reef, which is a fmall fpot, and bears eaft from
the fouth end of Danger ifland. We afterwards paffed the north-eafl:
reef, where once more we appeared to have a clear fea. Table and
Danger iflands, of which we had the neareft view, wore an afpcd
of fertility, having the loftiefl: hills covered with trees to their fum-
mits. Obferved at noon in latitude 1 8' 23'' S.
288 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1.797.
■Gn the 12th at noon we were in latitude 16" 42^ S. and longitude
f 80" 30' E. ; hal'f an hour afterwards faw land bearing fouth, for
which we hauled up, wilhing to have feme intercourfe with the
natives. As we ran to the fouth we had a reef on the weather fidt
jufl: in fight from the deck, and a low ifland on our lee beam bearing
W. by N. The wind being E. S. E. wc juft weathered a reef lying
eaflward from a fmallbut high ifland ; and ftanding a little farther,
tacked flaip clofe to the north-eaft reefs of what we called Sir Charles
Middleton's ifland, and chofe the ground betv/een this and the before-
mentioned reef to fpend the night in, as we had the bearings of
ieveral iflands whereby to dired: us clear of the furrounding danger.
At daybreak on the 13th we bore away, and ran along the north
fide of Sir Charles Middleton's ifland. There appeared no opening-
through the reef, though one might perhaps be found fomewhere
about the ifland, if diligently fought for; but on this fide there is none.
As we ran to the windward, compafs bearings were taken of the
iflands and reefs, to afcertain their relative fituations ; and to the chart
conflrucfted from thefe, with the help of the time-keeper and latitude,
we muft refer thofe who may citlier have to fail .this way, or who
would improve the geography of this part of the globe. Leaving
Middleton's ifland, we fleered wefl: per compafs four or five leagues,
and pafled clofe by what we called Maitland ifland. There were
natives on the beach with fpears in their hands ; and the ifland,
which was moderately high, feemed to abound in the common
produce; but, like thofe we had already feen, was quite furrounded by
■a reef. Therefore lliiling thence W.N.W. about fix leagues further,
we. came near to the eaft end of another pretty large ifland, called
Rofs's ifland, where we faw vafl: numbers of natives alTembled upon
the beach, and fmoke among the trees; but they alfo were quite
fecure, being, like their neighbours, ftrongly fortified with a fur-
rounding reef. Jufl off here we obferv^ed, latitude i6» 48' S. and
longitude i8o» 29' per chronometer. Many larger iflands were in
fight to leeward, which, from examination of Bligh's narrative^ .\v:e
Sept.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 28^
fuppofcd to lie N. E. from the large iflands, which he palled when
the canoes chafed him.
From the maft-hcad we obfcrved a reef trending to the N. E. to
weather which we hauled our wind to the northward ; and palling
it, ftood towards feme fmall iflands, which wc called the Cluftcrs.
As night approached, being furrounded with reefs and iflands on all
fides, we put the fliip under an eafy fail, and chofe the mofl: clear
fpace to make fhort tacks in, till next morning. At fcvcn o'clock a
low ifland to windward bore E. by N. and the highefl: of the Clufters
bore S.S.W. ; the wind was eafl:erly, and the fta as fmooth as a
river. At the above time we flood to the S.E, by S. under the top-
fails J and at nine o'clock, no danger appearing, we thought ourfelves
fafe ; but we were prefently alarmed by the fhip ftriking upon a
coral reef, upon which the lea hardly broke, to give the leaft warning.
All hands were upon deck in an inllant, and, as flie fluck fill:, be-
came under great apprehensions of being fliipwrecked ; a misfortune
which prefented itfelf with a thoufand frightful ideas. We knew
that the Feejees were cannibals of a fierce difpofition, and who had
never had the leafl: intercourfe with any voyagers ; confequently wc
could expedl no favour from fuch. Imagination, quick and fertile
on fuch occafions, figured them dancing round us, while we were
roaflai on large fij-es. However, it was no time to indulge thoughts
of this kind, but to try what could be done to fave the fhip. Judging-
it to be a weather reef we were on, the moment flic ft:ruck the fails
were hove abixck, and in about five or fix minutes we beheld with
joy that flie came aflern, and fliortly after was quite afloat ; when
we were again delivered from our fears, and found the fliip, which
had kept upright the whole time, feemed to have received no injury.
It was not poflible to afcertain at fea what damage had been fuftained,
as {he made no water; but on .her coming into dock, we dilcovcred
how very wonderfully we had been prelcrvcd. The coral rock on
which we llruck was providentially dire(n:ed exactly againft: one of the
timbers. The violence of the blow had beat in the copper, deeply
p jp
2^0 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
^\-oiinded the plank, and beat it to iliivers. Had the ftroke been
between the ribs of the fliip, it muft have gone throiigh, and we
had probably never returned to adore the Author of our mercies.
Thus the gracious Lord, who ftill guarded us with a fhepherd's care,
was pleafed to fhew us the infufficiency of human prudence ; and
that, except we are kept by himfelf, " the watckiTian waketh but
" in vain." O that he would give us hearts of gratitude and
thankfulnefs, in fome meafurc proportioned to his daily mercies ex-
tended to us his unworthy creatures !
When t)ie day fhewed us the dangers which lay hid on every fide,
it appeared wonderful how we had efcaped fo well, and made us
very defirous to get clear of them as faft as poffible. With this
view we fleered N.N.W. betwixt feveral fmall reefs, not larger in
circumference than the Iliip, and with fcarce a wafh of the fea upon
them. They feemed to extend on both fides of us, as far as we
could fee. When we had palled thefe, and began to bring the
iflands aftern, -we thought ourfelves quite clear, and were regret-
ting that we could have no intercourfe with the inhabitants ;
who, we had no doubt, would have been willing to barter with us,
had we found fafe anchorage for the fliip ; for with thefe people the
Friendly iflanders carry on a trade with the articles they got from us.
At ninfc A.M. another ifland came in fight to the N.W. for which
we fhaped our courfe, to try if anchorage could be found near it ;
and the weather fide appearing on our approach to be clear of reefs,
it gave us hopes that the lee fide would be the fame ; but it proved
otherwife. At noon the body of the ifland bore fouth, diftant one
mile, and our latitude by obfervation 15° 41' S. longitude per chro-
nometer 1 80'' 25'' E. Along this north fide, there being no reef, the
fea broke violently againft the cliffs^ which are high, and from the
face of them huge fragments have fallen off, and lie fcattered at
their bafe. Thefe cliffs, efpecially towards the north-weft end, have a
lefs fertile appearance than thofe we had already pafi^ed i but towards
the eaft end the ifland wears a better afpedt ; and at this part there
Sept.] TO THE SOUTM-SEA ISLANDS. 291
were natives and houfes upon the top of the hill. Probably there is
low ground on the fouth-weft fide, where we intended to anchor 1
but coming to the north-weft point, we faw a flioal clofe to us, and
a large flat ran S.W. off the ifland : upon which we hauled our
wind ; and as this was the laft we faw of this dangerous group, it
received the name of Farewell iiland.
Thefe are probably the fame as Tafman got entangled among, and
which he calls Prince William's iflands : however, it may be pre-
fumed that but part of them have been yet feen by Europeans, as
it was evident that many large iflands lay to the S.W. the neareft of
which we could but faintly diftinguilh, and fome were at a diftancc
from the tracks of Captain Bligh in the launch of the Bounty, and
afterwards in the Providence.
They doubtlefs are connedled with thofe which the people at Ton-
gataboo call the Feejees, as they lie in the diredlion pointed out by
them. In general they are high, and all we could diftindlly fee
appeared fertile : the loftieft hills were woody to their fummits, and
on the top of feveral was abundance of cocoa-nut trees, which on
fome iflands thrive only on the low ground ; nor is it here as at
Otaheite, where the middle region is commonly nothing but fun-
burnt grafs J for, from the beach to the top of the hills is one con-
tinued grove of trees, and many of them have fruitful flcirts of low
land. The valleys of Middleton's ifland appeared delightfully plea-
fant, and muft abound in all the fruits and roots common to thefe
parts of the world. In fome places we faw fpots of cultivated ground,
probably of kava.
Coral reefs furround every ifland, and thofe which h'e near each
other are conneded by them. Though there appeared to us to be no
openings through thefe reefs to the refpedlive iflands they enclofc,
yet we cannot venture to fay that there is no fuch thing, but think
it highly probable that by a more diligent fearch both openings and
anchorage might be found. But as the captain propofed making
fome flay at the Pclcw iflands, and had to reach China at a fpecified
r p 3
=52 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797-
time, we could not with propriety delay longer here in fearch of arr
uncertainty. Where we pafTed clofe we faw many inhabitants, and
have no doubt but that tlicy are all well peopled ; and they muft
be an improved people in the favage ftate, for the natives of the
Friendly Iflands, who are unwilling to give place to any, acknow-
ledge that the Feejecs excel them in many ingenious works ; that
they poflefs larger canoes, and are a brave, fighting people; but
abhor them for their dcteftable praftice of eating their unfortunate
prifoners. They i\{e bows and arrows in war; and from the black-
nefs of their complexion, and the difference of their language and
manners, they are evidently a diftind: race from the natives of thofe
groups where miflions are now eftablillied.
1 6th. We obfcrved at noon in latitude 13= 13^ S. and at five P.M.
faw the ifland of Rotumah, bearing N.W, by W. The weather
being at this time fqually, with rain, we hove to for the night.
At daylight next morning we bore away, and at half paft eight
o'clock were oppofite the north-eaft end, when feveral canoes came
off, containing from three to fix and feven pcrfons each. At firfl
they were fhy, and kept aloof; but prefently fome bolder than the
reft ventured alongfide, and one with a fowl in his hand, taking hold
of a rope, dropped himfelf into the water, and was hauled on board.
He made figns that he wanted an axe for the fowl, by which we
immediately knew that there mull have been friendly intercourfe be-
tween them and Captain Edwards of the Pandora, who difcovered
this ifland in Augufl 1791 ; but it is probable that they have been
vifitcd by none befides, as they now beheld us with much furprife
?.nd wonder. This day happening to be Sunday, the rule we had
conftantly obfer\'ed while in this fea prevented trade between us and
thcfe people. However, this man received an axe, a few fifli-hooks,
and other things, which made him leap for joy. Three others, en-
couraged by his good fortune, ventured after him, and fared equally
well ; and it appeared that many more would have come on board,
had they an opportunity ; for obferving that we fleered rather from
Sept.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. coj.
theifliind, they pointed towards a bay, as if dcTirous we fliould come
to anchor. As we ran down the north fide there appeared a good
bay near to the weft end, where, if the anchorage be flife, ihips
may ride flieltered from all but northerly winds ; and perhaps a
fituation might be found to lie in the fame bay flieltered from thcfc
alfo. This bay lies to windward of the higheft bluff hill, on the
weft end of the main ifland ; a high illet lies diredly north of this
bluff hill, and they bear a great refemblance to each other, being
both fteepeft on the north fide. Weftward of this laft lie three
more fmall iflets, the largeft of which appeared to be fplit in the-
middle, as if broken by an earthquake.
The main ifland far exceeds in populoufnefs and fertility all that
we had feen in this fea ; for in a fpace not more than a mile in
length we counted about two hundred houfes next the beach, be-
fides what the trees probably concealed from our view ; this was at the
eaft end, and there was reafon to think almoft every part of it equally
well inhabited. In the fliape and fize of their perfons wc could
diftinguifti no difference between them and the Friendly iflaiidcrs,
except that we thought them of a lighter colour, and fomc difference
in the tattooing, having here the refemblance of birds and fifties,
with circles and fpots upon their arms and flioulders : the latter are
feemingly intended to reprcfent the heavenly bodies. Two or three of
the women whom we faw were tattooed in this laft way : at Tonga-
taboo they keep the upper parts clear of all tattooing. The women
here wear their hair long, have it dyed of a reddifli colour ; and
with a pigment of the fiime, mixed with cocoa-nut oil, they rub
their neck and breaft. The men who were on board appeared to
have much of the ftirewd, manly fenfe of the above people, and
many of their cuftoms. One of them made figns, that in cafes of
mourning they cut. their heads with ftiarks' teeth, beat their cheeks
till they bled, and wounded themfelves with fpears j but that the
women only cut off the little fingers, the men being exempt from it ;
^g^. FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
w hcrcas at Tongataboo there is hardly man or woman but v.hat lias
lolt both.
Their finglc canoes (for we faw no double ones) were nearly the
f^ime in all relpedts as at the Friendly Illands, being of the fame
Hiapc, fewed together on the infide, and decorated in the fame manner
with ihellsj but, being rather fhorter in proportion to their width,
feemed not fo neat and well finiflied. The only weapons we faw
were fpears curioiifly carved, and pointed with the bone of the fting
ray. The natives expreffed great furprife and curiofity at the fight
of our fheep, goats, and cats. Hogs and fowls, they faid, they had
in great plenty, which, added to the evidently fuperior fertility of the
jfland, and the feeming cheerful and friendly difpofition of the natives,
makes this, in our opinion, the moft eligible place for fhips coming
from the eaftward, wanting refreshments, to touch at: and with
regard to miffionary views, could one or two young men, fuch as
Crook, be found willing to devote their lives to the inftrudiion of
perhaps five or fix thoufand poor heathen, there can hardly be a
place where ^they could fettle with greater advantage, as there is food
in abundance J and the ifland lying remote from others, can never
be engaged in wars, except what broils may happen among them-
felves. Its latitude is i2°3i'S. and longitude 177° E. ; its length,
in an eaft and weft diredion, is not above four or five miles.
From Rotumah we fteered N.W. by W. to W. and W. by S. for
eight days ; and as we hove to every night, we had reafon to think
that no land lay within four or five leagues on each fide of our track.
At eight A. M. on the 25th, we faw land from the maft-head bearing
N.W. by N. and immediately fteered for it. The weather being
gloomy, with drizzling rain, we had no obfervation for the latitude.
About five o'clock in the evening, as we drew near to the land, we
found that it confifted of tenor eleven feparate iflands, two or three
of which were of confiderable fize, and law a canoe coming towards
us, in which were two men; they approached within hail, but would
Sept.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 295
come no nearer ; they ftood up and brandiflied their paddles, and
ufing many wild gelhires, hooped and hallooed in a harfh tone, not
fcemingly as a menace or deiiance, but the efFcd: of furprife and a
mixture of other paflions at {o wonderful a fight, having, in all
probability, never beheld a fliip before. They had baikets of fruit
in the canoe, and to them they frequently pointed, as if they wanted
to barter them ; but if a conjedlure might be allowed, I lliould
rather think they meant them as offerings ; for if they really never
did fee a fliip before, they could know nothing of our articles, nor
their ufe or value. However, whatfoever they intended, fear kept
them at a diftance, though we ufed every method to allure them
alongfide. Nine canoes more were now coming off, but they alfo
ad:ed with the fame caution and fear as the firft, keeping all toge-
ther aftern of the fliip. When we had got pretty near to the illand
we tacked, and iliould have paffed through among them, had they
not perceived their lituation, and paddled to windward. After this
they were making towards the largeft of the iflands, \\ hen a heavy
fquall of wind and rain coming on, and obliging us to bear before
it, we were fo near nmning over fome of them, that the men in one
finall canoe jumped overboard and fwam to another. When the
fquall was ^over, we faw that they had all got near to the iliore,
and that the deferted canoe was not far from us j we therefore flood
clofe to her and picked her up, hoping to have an opportimity of
returning her the next day.
This canoe (and they all feemed to be alike) was about twelve or
fourteen feet long, and about fifteen inches broad, made of one tree,
fharpened at the ends, and a little ornamented on the upper part :
the inflrument with which they had hollowed her had left marks
as if done with a gouge.
Having put the fliip under a fniig fail, we flood to the eaftward
all the night, and at daybreak found we had drifted confiderably to
the fouthv/ard ; but as we ftill expedled to have fome intercourfe with
the natives, we fet fail, and plied to windward. About eleven A. M«
296 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
we were pretty near to the largeft ifland, when five canoes ventured
off; but adcd with the fame caution as before, taking great care to
keep between us and the fliore, to which they paddled after about an
hour's flay. Seeing them depart, we flood clofe in with a reef
which lies about half a mile from the beach, and feems to extend
fome diftance from the wefi end ; and probably the iflands are con-
nedted by it. Where we were, we found feven fathoms ; a flat
coral bottom. Finding that their fears prevailed over their curiofity,
and that we were likely to have no intercourfe with them, we lowered
the jolly-boat down, and intended to tow the canoe clofe to the
fliorc, and there leave her with a few of our articles in her. But
obfcrving that the fliip could not get near enough to aid the boat in
cafe of an attack, this defign was relinquiflied, and we immediately
bore away.
The largefl of this group we named Difappointment ifland, and
the whole clufler Duff's Group : they are about eleven in number,
lying in a direction S.E. and N.W. fourteen or fifteen miles; in
the middle are two larger iflands about fix miles in circumference ;
betwixt thefe lafl: is a fmall iflet, and to the eaflward are three iflets,
two of which are round and high, the other flat and longifli. On
the north-wefl: part of the group are five or fix more ; fome of them
high. At the eafl: end of one is a remarkable rock in form of an
obehflc. The fmall iflands are apparently barren j but the two largeft
are entirely covered with wood, among which were feveral cocoa-
nut trees ; but, on the whole, they had not the appearance of great
fertility. The natives appeared flout and well made, with copper-
coloured complexions j their houfes are built clofe to each other, and
not difperfed, as we had been accuflcmed to fee them: a horde of their
dwellings was on the fouth-wefl fide of Diflippointment ifland. The
latitude of the latter is 9° 57' S. and longitude 167° E.
From Duff's Group we fleered W. by S. thirteen or fourteen
leagues, and on the following day obferved in latitude 10'^ 4' S. and
were then jull lofing flght of the caflernmoil of the group, bearing
Sept.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 397
about E. 13° N. when we again faw land in the fouth-weft quarter,
and fleered for it, which proved to be Swallow ifland and Volcano
ifland ; and further to the S.W. we could difcern Egmont ifland : all
thefe were difcovered by Captain Carteret. Bcfides thefe we difcovered
a low ifland, which lies about S. S.W. from Volcano ifland, and ftccred
to go between the two, latter, but found that a reef ran from the
fouth part of the low ifland ; to avoid which we hauled to the
fouthward, then bore away ; and fleering W. by S. about five leagues,
faw two more low iflands bearing about W. by N. diftant two or
three miles. As the moon was jufl: now fetting, and we had reafon
to think running in the dark would be extremely dangerous, we hove
to with the fhip's head towards Volcano ifland. Captain Carteret,
in his Narrative, fays-, that they faw fmoke, but no flame, iflhing from
this volcano : but as we pafled it clofe, and even when we were at a
diftance, we beheld it emitting a large and bright flame every ten
minutes; which was to me and many on board truly gratifying,
who had never before beheld £0 grand a phenomenon. The height
of this volcano is from the furface of the fea two thoufand feet and
upwards ; and its height is to its bafe in the proportion of one to
three; its circular form, with flraight fides and an apparently pointed
top, gave us reafon to fuppofe that it had received this form by fuc-
ceflive eruptions of lava iflliing from the crater, and running down
its fides : and perhaps if this ever was what naturalifts call a primitive
mountain, it might not originally be very high ; its being furrounded
by low iflands, and its fimilar form to any common heap of matter,
naturally enough fuggefl: fuch an idea.
aSth. At fix A.M. we had the wefl: fide of Volcano ifland in
one with the wefl: end of Trevanion's ifland, bearing, per compafs,
S. 22° E. At the fame time the eaftern extremity of Egmont (or
Guernfey) ifland bore S. 43° E. and the extremities of two low iflands
north of us from N. 33° W. to N. 20" W. difl:ance of the volcano five
miles. Hence I conclude Egmont ifland of far lefs extent than it is
faid to be by Captain Carteret. Variation 10° E.
198 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
From fix A. M. till noon we fteered W. by N. by compafs twenty-
three miles, and obferved in latitude 10" 2' S. and longitude, cor-
re(fled from lunar fights and chronometer, 165' 5^ E.; and at this
time the volcano bore E. 29° S. j but we had reafon to think that a
confiderable current fet to the northward. From noon we fteered
W. N.W. twenty-eight miles, and could juft difcern Volcano ifland
through the haze ; probably, had the weather been clearer, we might
have feen it farther off; though even now we muft have been diftant
from it near twenty leagues.
On the 29th and 30th we had unfettled weather, with thunder,
lightning, and rain. About noon we paffed to the fouthward of
Stewart's iflands : they are five in number, of no great extent, and
low. They were difcovered by Captain Hunter on his paffage to
Batavia, after the lofs of the Sirius ; their longitude we make
1 62° 30' E. On the following day we paffed in fight of New
Georgia, and faw no more land for feveral days. On the loth of
Odober we croffed the equator in longitude i52°E. where we had
the winds prevailing generally from E. S. E. to N. E, and frefh
breezes. From the line to 6° N. and betwixt the longitudes of 150*
and 140°, we found that the current often fet to the eaftward ; and
as we run down about ten degrees in the latitude of -7° N. we ex-
perienced many calms ; notwithftanding which we all enjoyed an
almoft uninterrupted ftate of good health.
On the 25th we came in fight of a low ifland bearing W. by N.
and prefently perceived fome canoes coming towards us. About
nine A.M. one came alongfide without the leaft fear or hefitation;
by which free behaviour we judged that they had been acquainted
with Europeans before; and their frequent mention of " Capitaine"
confirmed this conjedure. Thefe firft were followed by feveral
more, who exchanged their fifhing-hooks (made of fliells) and lines,
and koir rope, &c. for any thing that was given them : and when
everal of them were admitted on board, they, for a confiderable
time, fhewed no inclination to fteal. However, thofe in the canoes
October.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 299
gave us reafon to alter the good opinion we had formed of them, by
fteaHng the rudder rings ; a thing which the Ikilful Friendly iflandcrs
had attempted in vain : and bcfides this, one fellow was caught
handing a pump-fpear into his canoe. As we had been accuftomed
to fuch matters, we only drove them off the decks for thcfe firft
depredations ; but while we fat at dinner in the cabin, wc heard them
at work trying to knock off the bolt-head of the rudder rings : upon
which the captain fired fome fmall (hot among them, which made
them inftantly fheer off. Juft at this time William Tucker and John
Connelly were difcovered fwimming clofe under the ftern, with a
view to make their efcape to the canoes, and by their (kulking ap-
peared afraid of being fired at likewife ; but the captain, enraged at
the former for his ingratitude and deceit, and willing to part with
the latter, told them, that if they chofe to go they might, for he
would not fire at them. Connelly anfwered, " Thank you, Sir;"
and they both fwam to the canoes, and were received by the favagcs
with great flioutings. Soon after, a breeze fpringing up from the
N.E. we refumed our courfe, and left them behind. Connelly wc
had brought by force fromTongataboo for threatening the miffionaries.
During his ftay on board he had conduciled himfelf quietly, and
being put on the fhip's books as an ordinary feaman, feemed to be
content in his fituation, till this lad acftion proved his hypocrify.
The fame might be faid of Tucker, who being alfo reinftated, had
often faid that he was happy that he had been taken again after
running from the fhip at Otahcitc ; and perhaps he fpoke his fenti-
ments, as there was reafon to believe that Connelly had perfuaded
him to this laft refolution. If Connelly was really a Botany bay
convidt (as we have fince heard), we may fuppofe him to have been
aduated by two motives, the fear of v/ork, and the fear of punilli-
mcnt if caught in England ; and as for Tucker, his condud: had
long made it evident that he was under the abfolutc rule of his fcn-
fual paffions ; which is the more to be lamented for the fake of an
excellent mother, of whom he was the only fou. This foot, on
J
oo FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
which they have chofen to pafs their days, is but a fmall ifland on
the bofom of the deep, being not more than two or three miles in
circumference, and where the comforts and neceflaries of life feem
fo fcarce, that we had reafon to think their whole fubfiftence con-
fiftcd only of fifli and roots, cocoa-nut, and perhaps the bread-
fruit.
The natives are not a flout race; their complexion is a dark copper;
their dilpofitions lively. We favv no women. Their canoes differ
from all we had met before, being raifed high at each end, and
painted red: they have outriggers, and fail either end foremofi:.
Their fails are made nearly in the fame manner as the fingle failing
canoes of the Friendly Iflands. The latitude of the ifland is 7° ^^' N.
and longitude 146" 48' E. We named it from the runaway, Tucker's
ijland.
With light airs of wind from the N. E. we proceeded on our courfe
to the weflward, leaving Tucker and his companion to refledt upon
the unhappy choice they had made; a choice, to all appearance, fo
replete with wretchednefs, that we did not imagine a third perfon
could be found willing to follow their example : but fuch is the
prevalence of habit, and the enervating influence of idlenefs over the
mind, that Andrew Cornelius Lind came to the captain, and begged
earneflly to be fet on fhore upon the next ifland we fhould difcover.
To this requefl not only confent was given, Irut likewife a promife to
let him have a feledlion of ufeful articles wherewith to benefit the na-
tives, and the better to introduce and give him importance among
them.
26th. When we had got about ten leagues farther weft ward, at
midnight we faw another ifland bearing N. and at four A.M. faw two
more to the N. W. and as the day broke fliortly after, we counted fix
of thefe low iflands, the extreme points bearing from N. W. by N.
to N. E.byE. : for the mofl foutherly of thefe we fleered, and foon
had a great number of canoes about the fhip, into one of which
Andrew, after taking leave of his flaipmates, went, and was received
October.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 301
with joy by the fiivages. The canoe that took him in foon put off,
and, as they paddled away, he flood up and waved his hand, fccm-
ingly more elated than deprefled by his change of fituation. The in-
dolent life he had led at Otaheite, the unobftrudlcd eafe with which
all his fenfual appetites had been gratified there, with his averfion to
labour, and the profpedl of its neceffity, which a return to Europe
held up to his view, ftrongly urged him to prefer a lazy favage
life upon thefe unpromifing iflands to his native Sweden, which he
knew to have advantages only for the induftrious. The following are
the articles which the captain gave him : viz. two hand-faws, two
hatchets, one hammer, ten looking-glalTes, eighteen knives, three
hundred deck nails, two razors, and fome trifles befidcs j thcfc, with
what he had of his own, particularly a bible, will, no doubt, make
him an acquifition to the natives, and may likevvife be the means of
rendering fervice to the other two, whom it was our opinion he would
endeavour to join. The natives of this group, their canoes, imple-
ments, and. eagernefs for iron, &c. were exadlly the fame as at
Tucker's ifland. The afternoon fet in gloomy and rainy, which
neverthelefs was not a hindrance to the canoes, many of which fol-
lowed us quite out of fight of their own ifland ; and as we obfcrved
them haul to the northward in a fquall, we coiicluded that they meant
to go to fome place in that quarter.
27th. About ten A. M. we came in fight of another low ifland,
bearing S. W, and as we altered our courfe to go to the fouthward of
it, when weft of us it fhewed like two diftindl iflands, lying near
each other : here alfo many of the natives came off, and trafficked, as
the others had done. One thing we had obferved a'; peculiar and re-
markable, that hitherto in our range among thefe iflands no females
had appeared ; whence we concluded the men either more jealous than
their eaftern neighbours, or as placing a higher value on their women;
or, perhaps, they had at forrte period fuffered in defending them from
licentious vifitors. The latitude of thefe fifter iflands is 7" 14^ N.
longitude 144° 50^ E. At four P.M. the latter bore E. byN..
302 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
two leagues. Jiift before dark we faw another ifland to the W. N.W.
dillant three or four leagues ; and fleering to go to the fouthward of
it, the better to avoid any danger that might lie in the way, at mid-
night it bore N. N. E.
About four A. M. on the 28th, w^e difcovered other iflands,
and by means of our night-glafs could difcern the extremes from
W.N.W. toN. byW. About this time it fell calm, which con-
tinued ; and at daybreak we counted fix, which might, from their
fizc, merit the name of iflands ; and feveniflets, or kayes; to the whole
of which we gave the name of the Thirteen iflands. At the diftance
of one league their extremes bore from N. W. | W. to N. i E. by
which their extent may be efl:imated. The latitude of the fouthern
part of them is 7° 16^ N. longitude 144° 30'' E. About fixty
canoes came oflf at firft, and afterwards fome of our people counted
one hundred and fifty in fight, each of which, on an average, con-
tained fcven men, which is one thoufand and fifty; and if we add
half as many left on fiiore, and double that number for the women
and children, the population of this group alone will amount to three
thoufand one hundred and fifty fouls, which, according to the ap-
pearance of the iflands, m.ufl: often be pinched for food. Here, for
the firfl: time, we got a fight of their women, who, to the number
of a dozen or more, came off in three canoes : in two they were ac-
companied by the men ; the third was occupied by young women
only. For a confiderable time they kept aloof, whilfl: their own men
feemed to eye them with attention ; but obferving that we did not re-
gard them with any particular notice, they were fuffered to approach
within a few yards of the fliip, which, as well as ourfelves, they ap-
peared to furvey with delight. Some of them were well featured,
having neither very thick lips nor broad faces, though inclining
to both. Their hair is black and long. In complexion they differ
from the men by a fickly kind of whitiflanefs that is mixed with the
natural olive. As we law them almoft naked, their greateft ornament
And higheft praife was the decency and modefty of their behaviour.
October.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 303
The o-reater number of the men were naked alfo : fome had a fafh mat
wrapped round their middle ; others added an ornamental belt round
their body, near the navel: thefe belts are about an inch broad, com-
pofed of bits of black and white fhells, bored and ftrung after the
manner of beads. Some of them wore a broad conical hat, in form
not much unlike that of the Chinefe. Thefe iflands feemed alike in
every refped:, no one appearing to afford greater natural advantages
than the other, except where the groups derive fomc enjoyments from
neighbourhood ; and perhaps more extenfive fhoals and fmooth
water afford a covert where the fifh may Ihelter from the ftorm.
Thus they may find greater refources than on the ifland that is folitary.
However, with refpedt to articles of exchange, they appeared to be
equally ftored : of thefe the ftaple is koir rope, thirty fathom of which
we could purchafe for a piece of an old iron hoop fix inches long :
this rope is in general about an inch thick, and equal, if not fpci-'or,
in ftrength to our hemp-made ropes. As they every where exprcffed
the moft eager defire for iron, at the above price we might, by
delaying a few hours at each ifland, have almoft filled the fliip with
it ; and would certainly have done it, had we known what we have
fince learnt, that it will frequently fetch a good price in China. Their
fifhino:-tackle differs little from what we had feen in the eaftcrn iflands ;
but their matting was ftriking and curious, being wove and made in
the form of a Spanilli fafh, with a fancy border at each end, wrought
in with black threads. The natural colour of thefe faflies is white ;
but many of them are dyed of a beautiful yellow with turmeric. It
is impoffible to behold thofe neat- wrought fafhes, and their rude ma-
nufadurers at the fame time, without wondering, and wifliing to
know how they came by the art. It is not improbable that they
might have been taught by the Jefuit miflionarics j two of whom
were fent by the Spanifh government from Manilla in the year 171OJ
but as the fliip that took them thither was driven away by the
currents, the Jefuits were never heard of more : however, others were
fent, who continued their efforts a few years, till having informed
FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE
bioi-
themfclvcs of the general poverty of the iflands, and certain that they
never could be of value to the Spanifli monarchy, they quitted them,
and fmce that time (about 1720) they have been totally negleded.
This makes it the more worthy of remark, that through fo long a
period this ufeful art fliould ftill be retained ; and while it refleds
credit upon their original teachers, is an encouragement to our mif-
fionaries to endeavour all in their power to introduce the mechanic
arts, as it proves that their labour will not be in vain. Turtle is
amono- the articles of their fubfiftence, as we purchafed one of about
twenty pounds weight for a piece of iron hoop about two feet long.
They manage their canoes with great dexterity, and go from ifland
to ifland apparently without fear; from which free intercourfe, and
having no weapon, except a fling, among them, we concluded they
had but few wars. Their language differs much from all that we
had heard before j and except a few words, as, looloo (iron),
capitaine, &c. we underftood but little of what they fpoke. Their
numerals are as follows :
Engllfh.
Carolinas.
Pclew Iflands.
One
Iota
Tong
Two
Rua
Or 00
Three
Toloo
Othey_
Four
Tia
Oang
Five
Leema
Aeem
Six
Honoo
Malong
Seven
Fizoo
Oweth
Eight
Wartovv
Tei
Nine
Shievo
Etew
Ten
Segga
Mackoth.
We now, as it proved, had taken our leave of the Carolinas, for
after the Thirteen iflands we faw no more of them. To vifit the Pe-
lews being our next objedl, we accordingly lliaped our courfe thither,
Nov.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 305
but had rather a tedious pafTage of nine days, owing to light and
variable winds,
November 5th. We obferved in latitude 7" 25' N. ; and at funfct,
being about two leagues more to the northward, we thought that we
faw land in the fouth-wefl: quarter, but could not be certain ot" this by
reafon of the dull gloomy weather which at that time prevailed :
however, as we judged ourfelves to be at no great dirtance from the
iflands, we Ihortened fail, and tacked to the S. E, The fhip now
having to contend with a head fea, pitched to fuch a degree, that the
fore-topfail yard broke in the flings : as this was of confequence in
our prefent fituation, it was immediately lent down, and replaced by a
fpare crofs-jack yard, until a proper one could be made. During the
night we had fqually and rainy weather, which larted until near eight
A. M. on the 6th, when it became more fettled, and we got fight of
the land, bearing W. S. W. diftant ten or eleven leagues. As wc
were fleering towards it, we were fuddenly alarmed by the cook's
caboufe catching lire: every man inftantly exerted himfelf to extin-
quifli it ; and happily this was foon efftded ; though, had not
the forefail and rigging been wet with rain, the flame blazed fo
fiercely, that it is probable the fliip might have been burnt down to the
water's edge. This fire was occafioned by the cook melting his fat
in a carelefs way.
At noon we obferved in latitude 7" 31'' N. the extremes of the
land bearing from W. 30° N. to W. 25'^ S. diflance about eight
leagues. With a brifk gale from the fouthward we continued our
courfe until half pall three P. M. when we were within two
fhort miles of the reef which extends no great diflance from the
fhore of the largefl ifland, called Babelthoup, divided into feveral
diflridts, each of which is governed by a feparate chief, acknow-
ledging the fupreme authority of Abba Thulle. When we hove to,
we were oppofitc to the fouthern part of the diftridl of Artingall.
Two hundred perfons, or more, were colleded upon the beach, antl
prefently about a dozen canoes were feen upon the water, fomc of
R R
jo6 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
which were under fail, and others paddling; but as the weather
at this time wore a moft gloomy afped:, three of them only came
far enough off to get alongfide. The natives in thefe had a piece of
white cloth tied upon a ftick, which they waved as they drew near;
an emblem, as we fuppofed, of peace. They approached without
fear or tiic leaft hefitation, and fpoke to us as to a people with whom
they had been long acquainted; but their language was quite unin*-
telligible; nor could we, even with the help of Captain Henry
Wilfon's vocabulary, make them underftand one word, except a few
of their proper names; they however kept talking very faft,
accompanying their words with violent and fudden geftures of the
hands and body, expreffive of their eager defire for us to anchor at a
place to the north-weft, towards which they pointed; and one of
them, who we afterwards learnt was a rupack, with a clumfy bone
on his wrift, came up the fliip's fide in great hafte to enforce the re-
queft, and was followed by two more, who were equally folicitous ;
but all their entreaties, added to our intention to make fome flay at
this celebrated group, were of no avail, as we could fee no place
where it was probable that a fhip could fifely anchor, and we had
not Lieutenant Macluer's chart on board to guide us. On our
mentioning the name of Abba ThuUe, they repeated it feveral times,
faying, S'Thulle, S'Thulle, and pointed to the land. The name of
Lee Boo- was not fpoken, for they talked fo faft and foconftantly, that
we had fcarce any opportunity to afk queftions ; and probably the
weather, which now threatened a ftorm, kept him out of their
minds. As their comrades in the canoes bawled loudly for thofe
on board to rejoin them, the captain prefented a few knives, looking-
glaffes, &c. when they haftily, though reludantly, took their leave;
but before they paddled off they were at fome pains to fliew their
gratitude, by throwing upon our decks with difficulty a couple of
cocoa-nuts, which was all they had : they then made for the Hiore.
This was all the intercourfe we had with the Pelew iflanders, a
circumftance much regretted by us, as it had all along been the
Nov.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 307
captain's intention to flay here a few days, for tlic purpofc of learning
what we could of the inhabitants refpcfting the expediency of fettling
a miffion among them ; and to prepare the way for milTionaries, by
diftributing fome ufeful articles retained in the fhip for thefe and the
Feejee people, from a hope of being favoured at both places with fafe
anchorage and friendly intercourfe; but, for the prefent voyage,
we concluded every thing of this nature at an end, and proceeded to
make the beft of our way to China, cherifliing the hope of there
receiving letters from our dear friends in England, to whom we now
thought ourfelves drawing near, though ftill at the diftance of many
thoufand miles.
Soon after we bore away, and had fliaped our courfe N. { E. wc
fell in with an extenfive reef, trending N. E. about two leagues from
the north end of Babelthoup, and difcerned three fmall iflands lying
further to the N. enclofed by the above reef. When we had run
nearly five leagues, the northernmoft of the three bore S. W, by W.
and at this time we reckoned ourfelves paft the north point of the
reef; and though very dark, with conftant rain, we continued our
courfe for two leagues more, when we faw two other iflands to the
N. N. W. and at only a fhort diftance from us, on which account we
hauled to the eaflward, and hove to till the moon fhould rife, which
it did about eight o'clock, when we refumcd our courfe, and after-
wards fell in with no more dangers.
If we admit the few which we faw of the Pelew iflanders to be a
fpecimen of the whole, they are, in our opinion, inferior in external
appearance to the Marquefans, the Society or Friendly iflanders j
they have not the flature and fymmetry of the two firfl:, and fall far
fhort of the mufcular, bold, and manly look of the latter. They
approach the neareft to their neighbours, the Carolinians, ; for, like
them, they are neither a flout nor handfbme race. Among fomc
cufloms which they feem to have in common at both places, is that
of flitting the ear, through which fome of them put vegetable orna-
ments, at-leafl an inch thick. In tattooing at Pelew, their legs and
R R 3
3o8 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
thighs appear as if they had been dipped in a die of bliieifh
black, the lame as at the Carolinas j but they mark their bodies alfo
Avith figures, hke fingers, or gloves. They appeared before us quite
naked, without fceming confcious of Ihame, and fhewed their
kindnefs and hofpitality by the earneft invitations they gave us to
vifit their habitations.
From November 7th, when we left the Pelew iflands, till our'
arrival on the coaft of China, nothing very interefting occurred."
The winds were i'o unfettled, that we experienced hardly any thing
like the N. E. monfoon, until within two or three days fail of the
Bafhees, the moft fouthern of which we faw the evening of the 17th :
they appeared to be very high, and diftant about ten leagues. Having
no chart on board upon the accuracy of which we could depend, we
kept our wind for the night, ftretching to the northward. At day-
break, fuppofing that we could clear the northern rocks, we bore
away weft, and with a little alteration of our courfe, failed clofe paft
the northernmofl ifle, which lies in the latitude of 21° N. longitude
122" 6' E.
The Bafliees confift of fix or feven iflands ; two to the S. E. arc
high ; fome of the others are of moderate height : the mofl northern
except one is high and craggy at top ; and between thefe two lie
two fmall rocks above water. After paffing this group in about
21° 10' N. we fleered W. N. W. i N. twenty-five leagues, then
reckoned ourfelves in latitude 21° 42'' N. and longitude 121° E. the
fouth point of Formofa bearing at the fame time N. i E. ; we faw the
rocks which lie to the S. E, and had a good birth of them as we
pafTed.
20th. We got into foundings, and pafTed feveral Chinefe fifhing-
boats. The next day, at feven A. M. being within two or three
leagues of the Great Lemma, a pilot came on board : at firft he
afked about one hundred dollars to take us to Macao road, but after-
wards accepted thirteen, befides giving us two fine fifh.
2ifl:. At ten A. M. we pafTed between the Grand Lemma and
Nov.} TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 309
Potoy, and leaving all the iflands, except Lingting, to tlic foutli of
us, we failed through with a fine cafterly breeze. At three P. M.
came in fight of Macao, and at half pall four anchored in the road,
the town bearing W. two leagues. The pilot was then difcharged,
and a fignal made for another; and that no time might be delayed,
our own boat was lowered down, and an officer difpatched on fliore
to bring a proper pilot off, as alfo to learn what European fliips were
at Canton ; but to our great mortification we found that not one had
as yet arrived, confequently there were no letters for us. Nor was
this the only difappointment : the Chinefe had lately refufed to
permit any vefTel up to Whampoa, except fuch as brought cargoes
thither. One fhip from Port Jackfon had been lying fix weeks in the
Typa, at the entrance of the river, and had not as yet obtained leave
to proceed upwards; and on our applying to the mandarin at Macao,
we were told, that, as we had brought no cargo, no pilot would be
fent on board until the Honourable Company's fupercargoes could
prevail on the Chinefe government at Canton for a palTport. The
boat, however, brought us a variety of refrefhments, of which,
though received as very falutary after a long paffagc, we did not fliand
in fuch need as many preceding navigators who had neither fliiled the
diflance, nor been fo long at fea as ourfelves. We had run from the
time of leaving England upwards of thirty-four thoufand miles, and
had been out fourteen months, eleven of them at fea ; yet in all this
time we had fcarcely experienced any ficknefs, and were at prcfent,
to a man, in good health. We never made ufe of antifcorbutics, as
malt, fpruce, &c. ; but being a crew fmall in number to what are
ufually on board fhips upon voyages of difcovery, we were enabled to
lay in a fufficient flock of frefh provifions at one group of iflands, to
ferve, with a little oeconomy, till we got to a place to procure more; fo
that our failors always had frelli meat at leafl twice a week; and for
nearly half of the time that we were in the South Seas they lived en-
tirely upon the hogs of the different iflands ; and we may venture to
FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE
[1797.
310
fay, that thofe who can be thus highly favoured need not be
foHcitous about any other antifcorbutics. On our arrival in port the
captain obferves, he was exceedingly fhocked at hearing around him,
once more, that great and awful name blafphemed, which, for
fourteen months, he had never heard mentioned but with reverence :
it was a found as grievous as unufual.
Nov.]
TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 3»»
CHAPTER XIX.
Occurrences at China, and Voyage home.
22d. Early in the mpmlng Captain Wilfon went in the pinnace
to Macao, to endeavour to have theobilaclcs to our going up removed,
while the crew were employed painting the Ihip, and putting her
otherwife in order ; and in a few hours we had the pkafure to fee her
look almoft as fmart as when Ihe left Spithead. Towards evening
a ftrong gale came on from the north, and increafed to fuch a degree,
that in'the courfe of the night we drove a confiderable way with both
anchors ahead. The next morning we were glad to embrace the
opportunity of the windward tide to weigh our anchors and run mto
the harbour of the Typa, and moored clofe to the Britannia, Captam
Dennet, the Ihip we mentioned from Port Jackfon. A chop (or
palTport) had this day been fent for that veffel to proceed for Wham-
poa, and Captain Wilfon judged it a good opportunity for him to go
up in her, fuppofing that by being on the fpot he Ihould the fooner
obtain the leave he wanted.
On the 25th the Britannia left the Typa; and that our {hip might
be in readinefs, we began to ftrip the rigging off the maft-heads.
which we examined, and found it neceflluy to put new cheeks to the
main-maft. The whole of the rigging was thoroughly repaired , and
iuft as this work was upon the finifh, the captain arrived on the 9th
of December with permiffion for the ihip to go up the river.
On the lOth we weighed from the Typa. and as we worked out
had the pleafure of feeing three large (hips at anchor in the eaftern
road : thefe, we hoped, had, what we anxioufly longed for, letters
from England ; and fo it proved.
^,, FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797.
On the I 3th \vc moored at Whampoa, where we found fliips of
different nations, Swedes, Danes, Americans, and . Enghfli ; of the
latter, helonging to tlie Honourable Company, were the Glatton,
Canton, Boddam, and Arniflon, befides fome extra fliips. The
three former have recently fuffered much by a tiffoon in the China
fea, and were returned to refit. The Arniflon had two or three days
ago arrived from England, having touched at the Cape of Good
Hope ; and by her we learnt the political ftate of our native country.
Wc now expedled to be three months at leafl before we fliould
receive our cargo, and be difpatched home, which we fuppofed would
be with a f^eet compofed of Indiamen, juft at this time arrived. But
the fupercargoes having determined to difpatch the Glatton, Boddam,
and Amazon packet, they ordered an immediate furvey to be made
of our Ihip, and the report of the committee appointed for that pur-
pofe being, " That the Duff" was in excellent order, and fit to receive
*' a cargo," Mr. R. Hall, the head fupcrcargo, told our captain,
that if we could take in our lading, and be ready to depart in the
courfe of five or fix days, he would difpatch us. This the captain
promifmg to perform, teas were immediately fent alongfide. But
though the fhip was in every refpedl in very good order, flie was
by no means clear for receiving a cargo ; our hold was half full of
water-cafks, bread puncheons, tierces of beef, and various articles of
flores beyond our confumption, and for which we had as yet found
no purchafcrs ; fo that to difpofe of thefe, and to remove them from
place to place as we advanced in our lading, gave us more trouble and
expended more time than taking in the cargo itfelf. However, by
the 3ifl: of December we were completely laden, and in a fhorter
time than perhaps ever fliip was before ; and having, by the kindnefs
of the fupercargoes, got over the difficulties which the Chinefe are
continually throwing in the way, we that fiime day ran down the
river, and joined the other fhips at a place called the Second Bar,
juft as they were getting under fail.
The Angularity of our manners at China could not fail to attrad
Jan.] to THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 3(3
notice; and as all immorality was utterly difcountenanced, not an
oath fworn, and aa appearance of unufual devotion maintained, the
company we had now joined were pleafed wittily to ncw-chrifteu
the Duff, and called her The Ten Commandments.
January 2d, 1798. We got down to Macao, where we found
three Englifli men of war, and feven of the Bombay cotton fliips,
at anchor, waiting for us to fail with them.
The Honourable Company's fliip Glatton, commanded by Charles
Drummond, Efq, was appointed to convoy us home, to take the
country fliips bound to Bombay under his care ; and the Fox and La
Sibylle were to accompany us for a few leagues down the China fea.
Every thing relative to the fleet's departure being arranged, and the
fhips in readinefs, early on the 5th we put to fca, with a frcfli gale
from the north, and found that the Duff was fully competent to keep
up with them, though we had been apprehenfive of this, as our
Indiamen are remarkable for their faft failing, efpecially when it
blows hard.
Our paffage down the China fea was as favourable as we could
have wiflied it to be. Some time in the courfe of the firfl: night the
frigates left us, and we faw them no more.
On the loth we paflTed Pulo Sapata, and, continuing our courfe for
the fl:raits of Malacca, at ten A. M. on the 14th we came in fight of
the Malay coaft j at the fame time faw a flrange fail ahead. Having
heard that an enemy's fquadron was cruifing in the ftraits, we at firfl:
thought this might be one of them fent to look out ; and this feemcd
the opinion of our commodore, for he made the fignal for the fleet
to prepare for acftion, and that one of the fafteft failing fhips fliould
chafe. But we foon recognifed her to be a Portugucfe veflx:!
which had departed from Macao three days before us. In the
afternoon we rounded Cape Romania, and fpokc a fliip from Bengal
that was at anchor under the lee of the point, which removed all our
fears of an enemy. The ftraits of Malacca are accounted dangerous
to navigate in the dark j however, as the wind was lair, our commo-
s s
„T^ FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [179S.
derc kq-it the fleet running all the night. Next day we had calms,
which obliged us to anchor; but a breeze fpringing up at N. E. we
foon weighed, and the wind increafmg at midnight, we paffed the
Water iflands, and at two A. M. on the i6th came to with the fmall
bower in Malacca road, in feven fathoms water, the flagftafF on the
citadel bearing N. 64° E. the Outer Water ifland S. 39° E. diftant from
the town two or three miles. The reafon of our touching at this place
being to fill up uur water, and gain information for the fafety of the
fleet, at daybreak in the morning the boats were hoifted out, and moft
of the commanders went on fliore, but were difappdinted in the hope
of intelligence, as there was none of later date than what we had
received at China. As this fpoke only of war, our duty was to pre-
pare for all events on the paffage; not that we had fears. The ability
and care which we had obferved in our commodore, and the ftrength
which would be with us after the Bombay fliips had feparated, gave
us confidence. The Glatton mounted forty guns, and the Boddam
about thirty, and both Ihips had a few troops on board ; befides,
at the Cape of Good Hope or St. Helena we expeded to join others
of the Honourable Company's fliips.
On the 17th we received about four tons of water, which is
brought oflf in bulk by fmall vefl"els kept here for the purpofe. We
alfo received an addition to our live fl:ock, and could have gone to
fea this evening, but that the large fliips had not completed their
water ; and one of the fleet which had lain feveral months laden at
Whampoa had I'prung a leak, and was obliged to ufe tedious and
laborious methods to find the place where the water entered. This
they happily found, and it deferves notice as a hint to fliipwrights
and to thoie who are more interefted : by ripping the copper oflf the
under wales a bolt-hole was found left without the bolt j an adl of
negligence which might have proved of the mofl: fatal confequence,
had it not been difcovered.
Malacca in profped: affords little beauty ; the houfes, excepting a
few, have a poor and mean look; and the befl:, though convenient,
March.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 315
are neither large nor fightly. The fortifications which furround the
town have originally been llrong, but at prefcnt are thought too
weak to ftand the fliock of cannon planted upon them : to make up for
this defedl, our countrymen, fmce the place fell into their hands,
have strengthened the lines and outworks, fo that they could now make
a very good defence. The ftreets within the ramparts crofs each
other at right angles, three or four lying eaft and well:, and as many
north and fouth. The (hops are fliabby, prefenting for file nothing
that is enticing to an European ; and their market has all the appear-
ance of a negro market in the Weft Indies. Until the Englifli made a
fettlement upon Pulo Pinang, or Prince of Wales's ifland, this city-
was the only place of trade in the ftrait ; and, from our earlieft
knowledge of India, is mentioned as a place of great importance.
They export tin, nutmegs, canes, &c. Provifions were at this time
fcarce and dear. The inhabitants are a mixture of Dutch, Malays,
and Chinefe : the garrifon at prcfent is Englifh.
On the 20th we failed with the fleet, and proceeded down the
ftrait until we came in fight of Pulo Pinang, when the Bombay fliips
left us and fleered for that ifland. Our fleet was now reduced ; con-
fifiiing only of the Glatton, Boddam, Amazon, and our own fiiip,
3ifl', We finiflied the laft of our yams, which had plentifully
fupplied us five months. We had a very good pafllxge, with few
gales- of wind, and met with no difafter ; nor did we fee a flrange
fail to- alarm us until the i6th of March, when in the morninp; we
made the Cape land, and fell in with two tranfports from Amboyna,
■which joined us. At night we hove to, and waited for day to run
for Table bay, where we were dired:ed to fill up our water, and re-
frefli the crew.
At daybreak on the 17th, after we had born away, one of our
boys, going up the main Ihrouds to loofe the main-topgallant-fail,
flipped his hold and fell into the fca; the jolly-boat was inllantly low^-
ered from the flern, and providentially favcd him jufi: on the point of
finki^ig : we got him on board, and though far fpent, after difcharg-
s s 3.
3i6 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1798.
ing a quantity of -water, he foon recovered. At three P. M. wc
anchored in the bay, where we found a fquadron of men of war
under the command of Admiral Chriftian ; two outward-bound Eaft-
Indiamcn, \\ith leveral Portugucfc, Danes, Americans, and other
VcfTcls. In the evening the health-boat came to examine in what ftate
the crew were, and, on finding us all well, gave permiffion for free
communication with the fliore. After them the admiral's boat
upon guard took account of the fliip, whence fhe came, &c. From
fomc of the fhips they imprefled a few men, but took none from us.
When they had left the admiral's excellent regulations, which are
given to all veffels coming into the bay, they departed. In a few
days we had got what water and flock we wanted, but it was not
until the ift of April that the fignal for failing was made, and we
put to fea, with the addition of the tranfport Bellona to our fleet.
The fame day we got out of fight of the Cape, and fliaped our
courfe for the ifland of St. Helena, where we arrived on the 15th.
Seven Indiamen, befides extra fiiips, and two South-Sea whalers, lay
in the bay, all homeward bound.
On the 1 6th the Albion, an extra fliip, was difpatched for England
hy the governor, \\'ith advice of the fleet being on their pafTage.
On the ifi: of May we failed. Captain Drummond, being the
fenior in command, had the charge of the fleet, confifling of twenty
fail: during our paflage we faw only two or three flrange fliips. In
latitude 20° N. we fell in with a fmall Spanifla vefi!el from Cadiz,
bound to Vera Cruz : fhe was made a prize by our commodore.
On the 23d of June we faw the coafl of Ireland, weft of Kinfale;
and on the day following put into Cork harbour for a convoy. The
Ethalion, Captain Countefs, was appointed for that purpofe by
Admiral Kingfmill ; and, after a detention of eight days by contrary
winds, we fet fail, and on the 4th of July faw the coaft of England.
On the 8th we pafifed the Downs ; on the 1 1 th came to anchor in
tlie river Thames ; and in a few days difcharged our cargo of tea,
which was landed in as perfed order as wc received it at China.
TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 317
THUS have we finiflied a voyage, in which the MifTionary Society,
and our Chrillian brethren in connexion with them, were fo deeply
interefled. Their prayers have been heard for us, and eminently
anfwered : fuccefs beyond our moft fanguine cxpedlations has crowned
our endeavours in every place where the miffions have been fettled.
We have not loft a fingle individual in all our extended voyage :
we have hardly ever had a fick lift : we landed every miffionary
in perfedt health : and every feaman returned to England as well
as on the day he embarked at Blackwall. We feci our grati-
tude rifing high to the Author of all our mercies, and cannot
but believe that every man who fliall candidly pcrufe the foregoing
flieets will join us in acknowledging the gracious providence that
hath fupported us hitherto ; whilft the generous and humane con-
ductors of this benevolent undertaking will be animated by the fuccefs
which hath attended their firft attempt, to purfue with increafing
energy an objed: which appears fo fraught with blcftings to mankind.
The way into the fouthern ocean is now open, and the facilities for
enlarging the miftionary labours greatly increafed. The fettlements
formed will every day continue to widen their circle of influence and
ufefulnefs ; and new and vaft countries around them, equally accef-
fible, afford an inexhauftible field for the moft vigorous exertions of
Chriftian zeal. The more all circumftances are weighed, the more it
muft appear that this hath God done : and can we perceive that it is
his work, and not at leaft confefs our obligation to further thefe efforts
to the utmoft of our power ? It is to be hoped that every objedlion
to this bleffed undertaking will be now removed j that the cautious
will confefs themfelves fatisfied, and demonftrate their approbation
by a more liberal affiftance, becaufe of paft delay ; that the pre-
judiced will nobly lay afide their oppofition, and redeem unfavourable
fuggeftions by immediate and generous acknowledgments that they
knew us not ; and that a miffion to the heathen, planned with much
deliberation, inveftigation, and zeal, and executed with eminent fkill,
perfeverance, and fuccefs, bears a ftamp of divine benediction upon it.
-,8 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE.
\vhich ought to commend it to every man's confcicnce in the fight of
God. How much thankfulncfs, delight, and fatisfadtion, it muft
produce in the hearts of thofe who have been nioft adive in the fer-
vicc, and fuch eminent benefadtors to mankind, I need not fay :
their work itfelf is their firil: and higheft reward. Having finifhed,
as one of the inferior wheels in this great machine, the revohition'
which received its impuH'e from the main fpring, I am for a while
repofing on thefe happy fliores of Britain ; but my prayers will never
ceafe for the profperity of Zion, and for the furtherance of the mif-
fionary labours, of the commencement of which having been a
favoured fpecflator, I cannot but indulge the pleating expecftation of
abundant increafe ; and wait, with the multitude of thofe who believe
the promifcs will be fulfilled in their feafon, to hear that His king-
dom is advancing, who fhall affuredly receive the heathen for his
inheritance, and the utmofl parts of the earth for his pofTeffion. The
Lord haften it in his time !
APPENDIX.
INTRODUCTION.
In the following Appendix of mifccllaneous matter refpcdting the
couatry, its inhabitants, cuftoms, natural hiftory, &c. fliqulJ any
thing be advanced apparently different from the preceding reprefent-
ations of former vifitants, it will be proper to remark, that thefe
papers have been drawn up from manufcripts attended with every
mark of authenticity, and from converfations with a variety of perfons
who have been lately on the fpot, and whofe veracity is highly to be
refpedled. It mull be obvious to every intelligent perfon in fearch of
information, that fome are fl:ruck with one objedl which another
overlooks, and that the ilrongefl trait of charadier and manners is
often drawn from the fimpleft trifle, which is ready to be difregardcd
or not mentioned for its feeming infignificance ; and where the fame
thing is noticed, inferences may be drawn by one concerning it, of
which another may entertain a different opinion. We hope, however,
on the whole, that the body of information here coUedlcd from thefe
fources will be found llrongly corroborative of the truth of the fadts
in the preceding narrative, and cannot but afford fatisfadlion to the
curious and inquifitive into the real flate of men and manners in the
ifles of this vafl ocean. We hope, alfo, to be able hereafter to prefent
a more explicit and full account, if it plcafes God to crown our
prefent expedition with any fimilar fuccefs as the pafi: : and we cannot
but flatter ourfelves that the public, on an impartial furvey of what
320 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
has been done, will confider the Miffionary Society as among the
real benefactors to mankind, and fupport an undertaking which God
has hitherto Angularly blefled ; and which propofes, as its firft objed,
the divine glory, and the falvation, temporal and eternal, of thofe whom
hitherto no man hath cared for. Names, fedls, and parties, have no
place among us — we mean nothing political, partial, or exclufive.
One is our maftcr, even Chrift : we defire to know and teach nothing
but him crucified ; to interfere in no conteft, to diflurb no government
eftabliflied, or introduce any peculiar modes of religious worflaip,
but to leave every man to the book of truth for his guide, in the fpirit
of meeknefs ; to unite in one centre, Jefus Chrift, the fame yefterday,
to-day, and for ever ; and to love one another, out of a pure heart,
fervently. Time and better information, it is to be hoped, will dif-
fipate every prejudice entertained againft fo benevolent an undertaking.
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. jai
SECTION I.
Country.
1 HE ifland of Otalicite confifls of two peninfulas connedcd by a
low ifthmus about three miles acrofs, covered with trees arid fhrubs,
but wholly uncultivated ; though no part of the ifland feems more
capable of improvement, and of admitting the plough if cleared
from wood. The larger, Otaheite Nooe, is about ninety miles in
circumference, and nearly circular ; the lefler, or Tiaraboo, is about
thirty miles. They are divided into a variety of dillrid:s, in enu-
merating which the former reporters differ, as probably they are
fubjedl to changes, and divided and fubdivided by the chiefs among
their towhas and relations. I fliall therefore refer to the map, as
containing the lateft and moft accurate account. The ifland has a
border of low land reaching from the beach to the riflng of the hills,
in fome places near a mile, in others hardly a furlong, and in feveral
points the mountains abruptly terminate in high cliffs, againft which
the fea beats, and form difficult pafliiges from one diftridt to another.
The foil of the low lands and of the valleys, which run up from the
fea between the mountains, is remarkably fertile, confining of a
rich blackifh mould covered with bread-fruit, cocoa-nut, plantains,
evee apple, the ydute, or cloth plant, and many others, which will
.be hereafter defcribed. The mountains afford a great variety of trees
of all forts and fizes, and are, in mofl: places, covered to their very
tops with wood, in others with bamboos of great length, and in fome
by fern and reed, which at a diflance appear like a fine green lawn.
The hills rife very fteep, and fwell into mountains almofl: inacceffible ;
but every where produdive of plantains, yams, and a multitude of
T T
325 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
wild roots growing fpontancoufly, and fometimcs ufed for food. la
thefe higher regions only is to be found the precious fandal wood, of
two kinds, yellow and dark-coloured ; from whence the natives
chiefly draw the perfume for the cocoa-nut oil, with which they
anoint themfelves.
The country exhibits a mountainous afpedl, and rifes very high
in the centre ; but it is interfed:ed by narrow valleys, which receive
innumerable flreams from the hills, fome of which fall in beau-
tiful cafcades, and fill the rivers, which meander through them,
amidft the verdant fcenery, to the fea. During the rainy feafons thefe
fwell into torrents, and fometimes loofen rocks and trees from the
precipices, and carry them down into the valleys, which they over-
flow, and occafion much damage. During the greater part of the
year thefe valleys afford a pafTage from one fide of the ifland to the
other, though always difficult when you afcend the mountains ; but
in the rainy feafon this becomes impradlicable, and the communica-
tion between one difiridl and another is kept up by canoes, which
pafs within the reefs in fmooth water with great facility ; ufing this
precaution only, that as the northernmoft part of the ifland has a
fleep rocky fhore, and in blowing weather the landing is dangerous,
thofe who wifh to go to windward proceed in their canoes weflvvard,
where they feldom find the trade wind, and, the fea breeze fets in
fron^the wefl:ward; the high land obflruding the eafterly wind, and
the ifland of Eimeo lying in a diredlion N. and S. forces a frefh
wefterly current up the fouth fide of Otaheite, which wafts the
canoes to the ifthmus ; where hauling them acrofs, they are fure of
a fair wind home. This is at prefent done on rollers and by ropes ;
but a carriage with wheels would wonderfully facilitate the operation :
and probably, ere long, a pradicable road will be formed for this
purpofe, as has been fuggefted by one of the miffionaries.
When the trade wind gets far to the fouth, and blows frefli, it
generally rains on the fouth fide of the ifland, bringing the clouds
from the mountains of Tiaraboo, and emptying their contents at
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 323
Pappara and the adjacent diftrids. This occafions a great differcnc-c
in the bread-fruit feafon between the north and Ibuth fides of the
ifland j as on the north the rain is lefs frequent and lefs violent, and
the trade wind conilantly blows, except when tlie fun is vertical.
Hence the great bread-fruit harvefl commences on the northern fide
about November, and continues till the end of January ; whilll on
the fouth fide, in fome parts, it begins in January, and continues in
different diftridls till November. But though this is the cafe with
the general harveft on both fides the ifland, there are fome kinds of
bread-fruit, though fcarce, in feafon all the year, efpccially in
the diftriift of Attahooroo. The different fpecies of the fame tree
amount to thirty. At our arriv^al in March we found plenty ; it con-
tinued till we left the ifland in Augufl : they faid it would be fcarce
for two months at Matavfu.
As foon as you begin to afccnd the hills, the foil changes from the
rich loam into various veins of red, white, dark, yellow, or blueilli
earth, clay, or marl : in the red are found flones refembling cor-
nelian or flint ; but being full of veins, though they will ftrike fire
with fleel, they break. on a fecond ftroke. The white appears a pipe-
clay, or fuller's earth j the dark, a fine fat mould, probably the decayed
parts of vegetable fubflances j the yellow is mixed with gravel ; the
blue a marly fubftance. Thefe are all found in digging ten or twelve
feet, and the under-flratum appears a foft fand-flone of a brownifii
colour, intermixed with hard rock.
The hills alfo afford a blackifli flonc, which feems a lava, in
pieces eight or ten feet long, and from four to ten inches thick ; of
which they formerly made their ftone tools : it is of a fine grain,
though not very hard, nor apt to fplinter j which anfwered befi: the
purpofes of the natives, as they could thus bring them more eafily to
an edge ; but at every ftroke almoft their adzes required whetting,
and two-thirds of their time nearly was employed in this labour.
The beds of the rivers confift of ftones and gravel ; many of which
contain a glaffy fubftance, and will mgit in a ftrong fire ; others arc
T T 2
3:4 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
more infufible, and many are found like pumice-ftone. In powder
the magnet attracts many particles. This, with other high iflands,
has evidently a volcanic origin.
In the diftricft of Matavai there is a lingular clifF, called Peeha ;
which one of the miffionaries defcribes as formed of an immenfe
number of oblong pieces of ftone, ftrongly cemented together, and
hanging in a very romantic manner. The cliff is about eighty or
ninety feet high, and twice as broad ; at the bottom runs a river,
the largcft in the ifland. This is probably bafaltic.
The mountains are in fome parts bare and full of precipices, broken
as by earthquakes. In the bofom of thofe which bound the diflri<5t
of Vyeorede there is a remarkably large frelh- water lake, called
Vyeheerea, which the natives fay cannot be founded with any line,
and contains eels of a monftrous fize. On the banks of this lake
many inhabitants are feated, who have plenty of all forts of provifions,
except the bread-fruit, for which they fubftitute the mountain plan-
tain. This lake empties itfelf into the valley of Vyeorede. Here
alfo they make vaft quantities of a greyifh cloth highly prized, beat
from the bark of the mountain floe tree ; and a number of arreoies
frequent the place for this purpofe, as they prefer the cloth to any
other, and call it oraa.
The bay of Matavai affords fafe anchorage during eight months
of the year, but is dangerous from December to March ; the bottom
is a blackifh fand, from fix to eighteen fathom. The channel between
the reef and the Dolphin bank, on which the water is thirteen feet
only in the fhoaler part, extends not more than half a cable's length,
but has twenty-two fathoms of water; yet, in a weakly manned
flitp, this pafTage feems preferable to paffing to the weflward of the
bank, as it frequently happens that the wind comes off in fqualls
from One Tree hill in a fouthern direction, and often falls into a
dead calm ; both which may be avoided by keeping the reef clofe
aboard, with ten fathoms water, and bringing up where you pleafe, as
there is no foul ground to windward of the Dolphin bank, nor any
;•
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 325
rocks but what arc vifible. The funkcn rocks, called Toa, the natives
know, and are ready to point out. The only harbour to the wcftward
is that of Oparre, called Toa roa, or Long rock.
Water is convenient and abundant in all parts of the ifland.
The weather, during our ftay, from March till Auguft, was ferene
and pleafant, the thermometer never finking lower than 65°, and
feldom higher than 73" j and fo cool at night as to make a blanket
welcome. When we came, the weather was a little fqually and
rainy, being the end of the rough feafon, which commences fome
time in December and lafts till March : during thefc months the
wind frequently blows hard from the weft, with rain, and throws a
heavy fwell and furf on the fliore into Matavai bay ; the reft of the
year the wind blows from the eaft, but with an alternate land and
fea breeze around the ifland, which extends its influence about a
leagiie from the fliore.
SECTION II.
Government. — Ranks in Society. ■'-Properly.
THE government of Otaheite is monarchical, and hereditary in one
family j of this two branches fubfift. Temarre, the fon of Oberea
and Oammo, reigned when Wallis firft vifited the ifland : he was
then a child, and Oberea his mother was regent. Oammo and flic
had quarrelled about faving the child, which he wilhed to defl:roy;
whether to retain the fovereignty longer, or fufpedling that the child
did not belong to him, the lady not being fparing of her favours
to others. On his accefllion, Oammo retired to a private ftation in
his own diftridt of Pappara, and left his wife, an adive woman,
356 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
in trufl: ^vith the reins of government for her fon. Oammo was
fon of Tcnae, and elder brother of Whappai, who fince has afTumed
the name of Otey, Whappai 's i'on Otoo was then a child of fix or
fevcn years old. Tootaha, their younger brother, was chief of Atta-
hooroo.
Wars and various changes appear to have preceded the lafl grand
revolution, when the partifans of Otoo, with the affiftance of the
mutineers, recovered the royal maro from the men of Attahooroo.
By one of thefc inteftine wars Temarre, the Tirridirri of Cook, had
been previoufly depofed, and Otoo, the prefent Pomarre, advanced
to the dignity of earee rahai. But the chiefs of Attahooroo, who,
under Tootaha, had been the principals in effedling this revolution,
feized the regalia, the royal maro, and the ark of the Eatooa, and
carried them off to their own diflridt ; and though incapable of ufing
them, as not being of the feed royal, they kept poffeffion of them
for the honour of their diftrid ; and having eftabliflied their warlike
charader, none dared contend with them. To Attahooroo, therefore, on
all great folemnities, were all the other chiefs obliged to repair, and were
fometimes infulted or plundered by the way. This occafioned con-
tinual difputes ; and the Attahooroo chiefs giving an afylum to all
thofe who fled for crimes from other diftridls, they became fuch a
terror to the reft, that Temarre, though dethroned and reduced to his
private patrimony, as chief of Pappara, joined with Otoo to attack
them.
Tiaraboo alfo had revolted, and fet up Vayheeadooa. A general
war commenced; Eimeo leagued with Attahooroo; and Maheine
(the uncle of Motuaro, king of that ifland, who had married Otoo's
fifter, as Otoo had married his) ufurped the right of his nephew,
and forced him to take refuge with his brother-in-law at Oparre,
juft at the time Cook arrived in 1774, whofaw the preparations for
war, but did not wait its iffue.
Otoo (now Pomarre), after many conflids, maintained his autho-
rity, though not without fuch defeats as fometimes drove him to
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 327
the mountains, and almoft annihilated his maritime power. The
war canoes of Otahcite have nearly difappcared. Otoo having culti-
vated the friendlliip of the Europeans, continued to be acknowledged
fupreme chief, though holding a precarious dominion, till the fcttle-
ment of the mutineers at Matavai. Them he engaged in his intereft ;
and as they could incline the balance to whichever fide they pleafed,
by their means he vanquiflied Attahooroo, recovered the royal maro,
and eftabliflaed his fon's dominion on a more folid bafis than it had
ever been before. Motuaro alfo recovered his loft dominion in
Eimeo ; and Ilrengthened the government of his nephew by acknow-
ledging his fupremacy. Pomarre (the name affumed by the father
fince his fon's fucceffion to the title of Otoo) continued, as regent,
to manage the affairs of government ; and by the help of his Eu-
ropean friends, the leffer as well as the greater peninfula bowed to
his dominion, and his flag pafTed with reverence through all the
diftridis. Temarrc firft paid it due homage, and it proceeded from
him through Tiaraboo. It was a union jack, given by the captain
of a veflel which had touched there, and decorated with breaft-plates
of pearl and red feathers. This was carried to the great morai, where
all the chief people of the diftrid: attended, and received it with cere-
monious reverence.
Pomarre, from king become the firft fubjed: of his fon and regent
of the ftate, fupports his fon's dignity with all his weight and in-
fluence. Temarre is joined in the flridteft friendlliip with him, and,
having no children, adopted Pomarre's daughter, fince dead. Eimeo
acknowledged the young king's fovercignty ; and his dominion was
no where openly refifled, though in Tiaraboo more than one diflrid:
ftill appears difcontented.
As the ceremony of invefting the young king with the royal maro,
like a coronation, is a folernnity which few can witnefs, the following
account from a fpedator will be interefling : .": :
Afifcmbling at the great morai at Oparre, the maro oora, or red
fa(h of royalty, recovered from Attahooroo, was laid onthemomi:
J
28 FIRST INIISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
it is made of net-work, and thrummed with red and )-ellow feathers.
The taata orero, the pubhc orator (probably Manne Manne), opened
the ceremony with a long fpeech, wliich fet forth the rightful autho-
rity of the fon of Pomarre to the royal dignity ; and invefted him
with the regal cindure. Motuaro, the chief of Eimeo, who had
recovered his authority, firft paid his homage to the young king, who
was borne on a man's flioulders, and furrounded by all his chieftains.
He brought three human victims from Eimeo in his canoes ; from
each of which the priefl, fcooping out an eye, prefented it to the
fovereign on a plantain leaf plucked from a young tree in his hand,
accompanied with a long ceremonial difcourfe : the bodies were then
taken away, and interred in the morai. The fame ceremony was
repeated by every chief in rotation, of the feveral diftridls of Otaheite,
fome bringing one, and fome two human facrifices, fixed on a long
pole ; and buried after the prefentation of the eye.
The reafon affigned for this horrid oblation was, that the head
being reputed flicred, and the eye tlic moft precious part, it was to be
prefented to the king as the head and eye of the people. During the
prefentation the king holds his mouth open, as if devouring it, whereby
they imagine he receives additional wifdom and difcernment ; and
that his tutelar deity prefides, to accept the facrifice, and, by the com-
munication of the vital principle, to ftrengthen the foul of his royal
pupil. Hogs innumerable were ftrangled, and immenfe quantities
of cloth prefented. The royal maro, worn only on that day, was
depofited in its place at the morai, and the facred canoes, which
brought the human facrifices, were hauled up thither. The king
and chiefs then departed, to devour the hogs, turtle, fowls, fifh, and
vegetables prepared for them in the greatefl profufion, and to drink
their intoxicating yava. The feafting and heivas lafted two months ;
the hogs killed on the occafion were innumerable, the yava abundant ;
and more than one of the chiefs paid for their exceffes with their
lives.
: Otoo, the prefent king, is about feventeen, and very large limbed.
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 3:9
promifing to be of a fize like his father. Though he is ahfohitc, he
lives in the greateft famiharity with the loweft of his fubjedts. He is
differently reprefented : fome fay he looks folid, and of a thoughtful
afped ; whilft others call him ftupid, and his countenance vacant.
His queen, Tetua, daughter of Wyreede, reli<5t of Motuaro, is about
his own age, and rather the larger of the two. Her countenance is
pleafing and open, but mafculine, and widened by the ufual nmethod
of preffure, called touroome. It is confidered as the diftindive mark
of their regal dignity, to be every where carried about on men's
fhoulders. As their perfons are efteemed facred, before them all muft un-
cover below the breaft ; and from this mark of homage their own father
and mother are not exempted. They may not enter into any houfe but
their own, becaufe, from that moment, it would become raa, or facred,
and none but themfelves, or their train, could dwell or eat there;
and the land their feet touched would be their property : therefore,
though they often came off to the fhip, ate what was handed down to
them, and baled the water out of their own canoe, they would never
come on board ; and when they daily vifited our miflionary houfe,
they never came farther than the door. Yet this had not been the
cafe with the father, when king, who freely entered the fliip, and
vifited our people on fiiore : perhaps fome ceremony is yet to pafs,
when the king comes to a more advanced age, when he will have the
fame liberty.
The king and queen were always attended by a number of men,
as carriers, domeftics, or favourites, who were raa, or facred, living
without families, and attending only on the royal pair; and a worfe
fet of men the whole ifland does not afford for thievery, plunder, and
impurity.
The queen has had as yet no child, nor is it likely flie fliould pro-
duce any, as, if the reports our miffionaries have received are true,
(he is a perfed: Meffalina, and lives in a promifcuous intercourfe with
all her porters.
u u
330 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Ai-pendix.
The mode of carrying the king and queen is with their legs
hanging down before, fcated on the flioulders, and leaning on the
head of their carriers, and very frequently amufing themfelves with
picking out the vermin, which there abound. It is the fingular pri-
vilege of the queen, that, of all women, fhe alone may eat them;
which privilege flie never fails to make ufe of. On their own lands
they fometimes condefcend to alight, and walk ; but feldom move far
without their porters. Among thefe attendants is to be found one of
the fingular curiofities of the ifland, a native of a complexion quite
different from his fellows; reddifh, and of a Swedifh caft of counte-
nance, and his hair white and fine as flax. There are a few others
fomething fimilar, like the white negroes, an anomalous breed.
The next in rank to the king is his own father, Pomarre, who
adls as regent for his fon. He is reprefented as of very amiable
manners, and peculiarly attached to us. He is the largeft man on
the ifland, being above fix feet four inches high, and fl:rong built.
Our talleft men in the fliip hardly reached his flioulders ; and he
would \\'eigh againft three or four; yet he is no warrior, and in
military prowefs exceeded by his wife Iddeah, a w^oman of a mofl:
mafculine appearance and difpofition. They live together in great
harmony, though they have ceafed to cohabit. He firft took her
younger fifter to wife, and then another woman ; and flie has a fer-
vant of her own, by whom fhe has had more children than one, all
of whom have been murdered, {he being now a member of the arreoy
fociety.
The next in dignity are the chiefs in the fevcral diflirids ; fome of
whom are fuprenle in more than one diftrid:, and exercife in their
own territories all regal power, yet ftill fubjedt to Otoo as fovereign
paramount, and liable to be called upon for afiifl:ance :. thefe, alfo,
have houfes and lands in many diftrids, which, as they cannot
bccupy themfelves, they commit to thecare of fuperintendants, called
mcduas, or give them to their tayos, who enjoy all the ufufriiits
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 331
without being called to any account, and (hare them with the chiefs ;
when they come to refide themfelves.
Next to thefe are the towhas, the near relations, or younger
brothers, or tayos, of the chiefs : and if there are more chiefs than
one, the diftridl is divided into different padtdoos, or pariflies, • and
each of thefe have towhas under him. •' *
The next rank is the rafirra, or gentleman, who has one portion
to the towha's three. Thefe fmaller eftates are called rahoc, from the
power the ratlrra has to lay a prohibition on his own land, or on any
particular fort of provifion, as well as the towha on his portion, and
the chief on the whole ; but this power, though fometimes abufed,
is ufually employed after a great confumption of provifions, or to
accumulate them for fome magnificent feaft. The principal objedls
of the rahoe are hogs, though fometimes it extends alfo to other forts
af provifions; as when they find the lliell-fifla fcarce on the reefs,
the ratlrra can rahoe his portion, which is done by firicking up at the
extremities of it two branches of a tree, to which a white cloth is at-
tached ; and no perfon dares fifh there whilft thefe remain. When
the rahoe is taken off, and the offering of a hog and fifli is made, the
place is again free, and a feaft given by the perfon who put on the
rahoe: this is called or5aj and befides feafting the guefts, it is ex-
pelled that he fliould prefent them with large quantities of cloth ;
fome of this is thrown to the populace to fcramble for, which makes
fport, the cloth being torn into ribands ; and however fmall, they
prefer it to a larger piece, which they might have for afking : thefe
narrow flips they wear as favours in honour of the feaft. The young
men wreftle, the women dance, and the feaft is often prolonged
feveral days.
When fuch a feaft is made by a chief on taking off the riihoe from ■
a whole diftri(5t, it is called towrSa ; then larger quantities of cloth,
live hogs, bamboos of oil, and even canoes, are given to be fcrambled
for. At thefe greater entertainments moft of the chiefs of the ifland
are prefent, vaft numbers of the arreoies, and all defcriptions of
u u a
332 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
people. The towroa refemblcs a country fair, to which every one
who goes brings home fomething to fliow where he has been, wit^
this difference, that here it cofls them nothing ; and befides the fport
of the herroo, they are feafted all the time. Hogs innumerable are
dreffed on this occafion j and a ftranger would fuppofe every one ori
the ifland had been colledled. The cloth and canoes feldom fall to the
fliare of the fame perfon, but are moftly rent in pieces ; and he who
gets the largeft piece is the beft man. If feveral of a family feize
and carry off the canoe, it is their own j and he who firft catches the
hog, carries it home.
The things appointed for this fport are all brought together in an
open fpace. The chief's men hold the hogs faft, till the prieft has
made a long prayer on the occafion : at the conclufion of it he throws
a young plantain into one of the canoes, which fband in a row, with
mafts erected to fpread the cloth, and hang the bambqos of oil; im-
mediately on this fignal, the hogs, goats, and fowls, are let loofe,
and the young men and women begin the chafe, which continues a
confiderable time before all are caught, and affords many a laughable
incide;nt : after this, the prefents are given, and the feaft ferved up.
Wreftling and dancing occupy a part of every day and night while
the feaft continues.
They have other feafts, held at the ratlrra's morai, called oboo n5e,
where they rrieet in fmaller companies, baking a hog, and eating it
on the fpot ; and if not cleared the firft day, they muft come the
fecond, or the third, as none muft be removed from the morai.
The chief of the padtdoo, and the priefts, are always invited on thefe
occafions ; and if abfent, a portion is put by for them till they arrive,
which they feldom fail to do. If the chief does not come, the priefts
are entitled to his portion. At this feaft no woman, nor any of her
male attendants, can be prefent, or partake of it. At all thefe they
brew plenty of yavaj and they who can get it, drink it greedily.
When the hog is taken from the oven, the prieft offers a long
prayer, and on a plantain-leaf colleds, a fmall portion of all the pro-
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 333
vifions, with a bit of yava root, placing them on the altar, as
an oblation to the Eatooa. The hog is then divided into as many
fliares as perfons ; each eats as much as he pleafcs, and puts the re-
mainder into a ballcet, covered with leaves, till he returns to finifh his
portion. If a ftrangcr pafTes by at the time, he is always invited to
partake, provided he declares himfelf raa, or a clean perfon ; if not,
he refiifes, nor dare they tell a lie; for fhould the impofition be
deteded, death only could expiate the offence.
The women and their fervants have their feparate feafts alfo, called
oehum5o, Thefc are generally of fifli, and not kept on facred ground.
Any man who is invited may partake with them.
The loweft clafs in fociety, after the ratirra, is the rnanahoune ;
they cultivate the land, and moft refemble our cottagers : fome are
raa, or hallowed j and others common or unclean. Thele hold under
the towhas and ratirras, anfwer all their demands to the beft of their
ability, make cloth for them, build their houfes, or affift in any
laborious work required of them ; yet their vaflalage compels no con-
llant fervice or refidence : they may change chiefs, and go to another
diftridt.
The fervants of whatever clafs are called tout 011 ; and fuch as wait'
wholly on the women, tiiti ; nor is it uncommon to find young men
of the firft families fo debafed ; though by fuch feminine fervice they
become excluded from all religious folemnities.
There yet remains a fet of men of the moft execrable caft, called
mahoos, affediing the manners, drefs, geftures, and voice of females,
and too horrid to be defer ibed.
In the fcale of rank, birth enjoys Angular diftindlion. A chief is
always a chief; and though expelled from his command, lofing his
diftrid:, or having his honours transferred to his child, he continues
noble and refpeded ; on the other hand, no acquifition can raife a
common man to a higher ftation than that of towha, or ratirra ; yet
the meaneft are in no flaviih dependence. The honour and refpedt
which they pay their chief, is rather through force of cuftom thaa
334 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
rile fear of punifhment. They are admitted as their companions on
all occafions, and treated with perfedl freedom; indeed, in outward
appearance they can hardly be diflinguiflied. The king is not averfc
to converfe with the loweft of his fubjedls, or to be their vifitor ; and
never treats them with hauteur. His retinue is often changing : no
man ferves him longer than he pleafes. They have no wages, nor
engage for any ftated time, though fome remain in the fame family
all their lives ; and thefe ancient domeftics are as much refpecled as
their own relations, giving dire6tions to the younger branches, and
managing, as flewards, the affairs of the houfehold without control.
All are friendly and generous, even to a fault; they hardly refufe
any thing to each other if importuned. Their prefents are liberal,
even to profufion. Poverty never makes a man contemptible ; but to
be affluent and covetous is the greateft fliame and reproach. Should
any man betray fymptoms of incorrigible avaricioufnefs, and refufe to
part with what he has in a time of neceflity, his neighbours would
foon deftroy all his property, and put him on a footing with the
pooreft, hardly leaving him a houfe to cover his head. They will
give their clothes from their back, rather than be called peere peere,
or ftingy.
Refpedling property, they have no writing or records, but memory
and landmarks. Every man knows his own; and he would be
thought of all charadlers the bafefl, who fliould attempt to infringe
on his neighbour, or claim a foot of land that did not belong to him,
or his adopted friend ; for the tayo may ufe it during his friend's
lifetime, and if he has no child, poffefs it at his death.
If a man bequeaths his property to another on his death-bed, no
perfon difputes the bequeft, as there are always witneffes abundant to
the gift, if the heir is not prefent. The landmarks fet by their
anceftors, the father points out to the fon or heir; and fhould any
difpute arife, through their decay or removal, multitudes know where
they flood, and the matter is in general eafily fettled. Indeed it is
much the fame in all litigations ; the cafe is referred to a by-ftander,
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 335
and the party which he declares in the wrong fubmits, and makes the
other a pcace-offlring of the plantain-ftalk. Men feldom or never
fight in conlequence of any pcrfonal quarrel. If any matter of
ferious offence is given, the whole family or diflridt take it up, and
go to war with their adverfaries ; but if they chufe not to fight, a
peace-offering muft be made, which is never refufed ; if they will
fight, the weakeft muft fuffcr; and as all the relations adopt the
quarrel, there is fomctimes much bloodfhed, and it frequently leads
to a general war. Such broils, indeed, are fometimcs produced by
what appears to us a very trifling matter; fuch as fcurrilous words
fpoken againft the heir of a large eftate, or even of a fmall one;
negledt of proper refped: to a child, and other things as trivial ; for
inftance, as the child from the moment of its birth becomes the head
of the family, the boundaries of his land are new marked with rude
images ; and if this new-born infant be a towha, or ratirra, a number
of little flags are fet up in different parts of the boundary ; to thefc
all perfons of inferior rank muft uncover themfelves as they pafs,
whether by day or by night; and fhould this mark of homage be
contemptuoufly negled:ed, the mother flies to the fhark's teeth and
cuts herfelf, and the party muft make his peace-offering with the
plantain r fhould this be refufed, the father and mother would tear
off the clothes from his back, and well drub him into the bargain.
The friends and relations on both fides fometimes arm, and fatal
confequences follow. Even a chief has been known to be driven
from his diftrid: on account of a difpute originating about a poor
man's child fuppofed to be affronted by one of the fame rank with
himfelf.
The famous, or rather infamous arreoy focicty, confifting of noble
perfons in general, have alfo different ranks among themfelves,
like our freemafons, known by the manner of their tattooing. The
higheft are called ava' bly areema tatowe ; the next, areema bly ; the
third, ahowhoa; the fourth, harrotea; the fifth, e'ote ole; the
iixth and feventh, po, and mo, youths training up.
336 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
SECTION III.
Inhabitants, — Men, Wojnen, and Children. — Abodes.
THE natural colour of the inhabitants is olive, inclining to copper.
Some are very dark, as the fifhermen, who are moft expofed to the lun
and fea; but the women, who carefully clothe themfelves, and avoid
the fun-beams, are but a fhade or two darker than an European
brunette. Their eyes are black and fparkling ; their teeth white and
even ; their fkin foft and delicate ; their limbs finely turned ; their
hair jetty, perfumed, and ornamented with flowers; but we did not
think their features beautiful, as, by continual preffure from infancy,
which they call touroome, they widen the face with their hands,
diftend the mouth, and flatten the nofe and forehead, which gives
them a too mafculine look ; and they are in general large, and wide
over the Ihoulders ; we were therefore difappointed in the judgment
we had formed from the report of preceding vifitors; and though
here and there was to be feen a young perfon who might be efteemed
comely, wefawfewwho, in fadl, could be called beauties ; yet they
poflefs eminent feminine graces : their faces are never darkened with a
fcowl, or covered with a cloud of fullennefs or fufpicion.
Their manners are affable and engaging; their ftep eafy, firm, and
graceful ; their behaviour free and unguarded ; always boundlefs in
generofity to each other, and to ftrangers; their tempers mild, gentle,
and unaffedted ; flow to take offence, eafily pacified, and feldom
retaining refentment or revenge, whatever provocation they may have
received. Their arms and hands are very delicately formed; and
though they go barefoot, their feet are not coarfe and fpreading.
As in all warm climates, the women in general here come earlier
to puberty, and fade fooner, than in colder and more northern coun-
Appendix] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 337
tries ; though in fome the features continue Httle changed even to gray
hairs ; and what is remarkable, fome arc faid to fade, and revive again,
retaining their comeHnefs beyond t'nofe who have not experienced fucli
a change. Many, indeed, wdio lead a diflblute life, receive their
unmediate punifhment, and are old and hagard at thirty; whilll
others, who have lived more decently, or, at leaft, have been lefs
profligate, retain all the fprightlinefs and vigour of youth at fifty.
As wives, in private life, they are affe<flionate, tender, and
obedient to their hufbands, and uncommonly fond of their children :
they nurfe them with the utmoft care, and are particularly attentive to
keep the infant's limbs fupple and ftraight. A cripple is hardly ever
feen among them in early life. A ricketty child is never known ;
any thing refembling it would refled the higheft difgrace on the
mother. If an utter llranger difcovers the lead defed: in a child, he
makes no fcruple to blame the mother, and imputes it to her want of
fenfe and experience in nurfing : fo that if the child is not born
radically defective, which is feldom the cafe, they will mould it
into a proper fhape. A perfon knock-kneed, or bow-legged, is
fcarcely to be found : in the whole ifland we faw only three hump-
backed boys, in three different diftridls.
The men in general are above our common fize ; but the chiefs a
larger race, few of them fliort of fix feet high ; and Pomiirre four or
five inches higher, and proportionably bulky. They carry their age
well ; and are healthy and vigorous at a very advanced time of life,
if not infedled with difeafe : fuch are Otey, the grandfather of Otoo,
and Manne Manne, the high-prieft, and others. The exadl amount
of their years can only be colledled from circumftanccs, as they keep
no regular computation of time ; yet from events which they relate,
a pretty accurate calculation may be formed. Many were alive in
1791 who remembered the lofs of one of Roggewein's fquadron at an
ifland north of Otaheite, in 1722.
The drefs of both fexes is nearly the flime, excepting that the men
wear a narrow piece of cloth, which, pafling round tJie waift, goes
X X
338 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
between the thighs, and is tucked in before, named the marro, and
may be called their breeches. An oblong piece, like a piece of printed
calico, not a yard wide, with a hole in the middle to admit the
head, hangs down before and behind, with the fides open, falling
loofe as low as the knees, and leaving the arms quite uncovered : this
is the teboota. A fquare piece of cloth, doubled, of any fize
fufficient to pafs once and a half round the waift of the men, and
above the breafls of the women, under the taboota, is called paru :
this falls down only to the knees of the man, but to the mid-leg, and
often to the ankles of the woman ; and is fometimes tucked in at the
corner, or confined by a girdle of eloth, plaited hair, or fine matting,
called tatdooa. The women, befides, often wear a piece of cloth,
ahhoo, fquare, or oblong, folded, which they throw taflily over all,
by way of cloak : this is generally of white cloth, and very fine. The
other garments are of what colours they fancy mofl. Inflead of the
marro, worn by the men, the women have a fmaller paru, beneath
the larger, as an under-petticoat.
When travelling, they ufually tuck up the paru, to prevent its being
foiled or dirty. If perfons of rank appear with more than the ordi-
nary quantity of cloth around them, this is defigned for a prefentj
and they generally honour the perfon for whom it is intended with
winding it round him with their own hands.
The women uncover their flioulders and breafls in the prefence of a
chief, or on pafTing the facred ground. Their bonnets refemble the
green fhades which our ladies ufe in fummer : they are often changed,
as they muil caft them away on paffing the morai ; but they are
replaced in a minute by plaiting, or weaving, the leaves of the cocoa-
nut ; and for this they prefer the bright yellow leaves to the green
ones. The turban drefs and tamou are never worn by the women but
at the heivas, and are called taao oopo. Both fexes wear garlands of
flowers and feathers, but no wig, or artificial coiffure. The tamou is
made from th« hair of their departed relatives, and held in the highefl
eflimation : it is feldom compofed of more than fix or nine hairs in-
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 339
thicknefs, but is often five or fix fathoms long. They fomctimes
dtefs with a garland of cocoa-nut fibres, ornamented with bits of pcarl-
fhell, and the nails of the thumb and fingers of their dcccafcd
relations : thefe they ufe as mourning, and confidcr as very precious
relics. The women have no morai, nor appropriate place of worfhip ;
nor are they ever prefent at their folemnitics ; neverthelefs they fup-
pofe they fliall be admitted to happinefs with the Eatooa, as well as
the men.
In the tattooing of men and women there is a fmall fpot on
the infide of each arm, juft above the elbow, which is a mark of
diftindiion, and fliews that fuch a perfon may eat or touch his father's
and mother's food, without rendering it raa, or facred ; it is a fort
of feal, that all the amoas have been performed. This is generally
received when the head is made free, which is the laft amoa, except
that of friendfhip and marriage. The man who does the tattooing to
young or old, is called at the pleafure of the parties, and no conftraint
is ever ufed. The young perfons will" not fufFer him to leave oJfF
while they can endure the ftroke of the inftrumenf, though they
make cries and lamentations as if he was killing them. The
girls are always attended by fome female relations, who hold them
while ftruggling under the pain of the operation, encouraging them
to cry out, which they think helps to alleviate the anguifh. When
the pain becomes exceffive, and they fay they can endure no more,
they ufe no compulfion. No perfon ever lifts his hand even to flirike
a child ; on the contrary, the young girls under the operation will
often ftrike thofe who companionate them, and wifh them to fufpend
the operation, as they are never efteemed women till the whole is
finifhed : this fometimes lafts for a year, or more, by inter\'als, from
the commencement of the tattooing.
No where are' children brought into the world with lefs pain or
danger : the women fubmit to little or no confinement within doors,
but rife and go about as ufual. The infant prefently crawls, and foori
X X s
540
FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE
[Appendix.
begins to walk, and almoft as foon to fwim. They run about entirely-
naked, and are remarkably healthy and adive.
They are generally acquainted with the art of converfing by figns,
either in public or private, and perfed: mailers of the language of
the eyes.
Their voice and fpeech are foft and harmonious. Their dialc(fl is
the Italian of the South Seas, abounding with vowels, and expelling
every harfli and guttural foimd from their alphabet : this confifts
only of feventeen letters, with which they exprefs themfelves with
great facility and precifion. Their pronouns are a ftriking inflance
of this : thefe are different according to the number of perfons fpoken
of: we, two only — "Ji'e, two out of three in company — "xr, an indefinite
number, have each a different pronoun fpecifically marking the per-
fons ; and it is the fame in the others, both perfonal and poffeffive;
a fingularity perhaps unknowri to any other language. C gj kqs xz
they can hardly articulate, or pronounce a word into the compofition
of which thefe letters enter.
In general, the ingenuity of all their works, confidering the tools
the}- poffefs, is marvellous. Their cloth, clubs, fifliing implements,
canoes, houfes, all difplay great (kill : their mourning dreiles, their
war head-drefs and breaft-plates, fhew remarkable tafte : their adjuft-
ment of the different parts, the exad: fj'^mmetry, the nicety of the
joining, are admirable : and it is ajflonifhing how they can with
fuch eafe and quicknefs drill holes in a pearl-fhell with a fliark's
tooth, and fo fine as not to admit the point of a common pin.
The men are excellent judges of the weather from the appearance
of the iky and wind, and can often foretel a change fome days
before it takes place. When they are going to any diflant ifland,
and lofe fight of land, they fteer by fun, moon, and ftars, as true
as- we do by compafs. They have names for many of the fixed
ftars, and know their time of rifing and fetting with confiderable
precifion : and, what is more fingular, their names and the account
AprENDix.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 341
of them refemblc, in many inftanccs, the Grecian fables : they have
the twins, or two children, their Caflor and Pollux, &c.
Their year confiils of thirteen months. They calculate by the
lunations of the moon, and by the fun pafling and repaffing over
their heads. They pretend to foretel when the rains will fet in, and
whether they will be more or lefs violent than common, and prepare
accordingly. They know the fcafons for particular fifh, and get
ready ; when the bread-fruit will come in feafon ; and whether the
harvcft will be plentiful or fcanty, late or early. The day and night
are divided into twelve equal parts, and they guefs pretty exac1:ly
what the hour is by the fun and ftars.
They reckon in numbers from one to ten, then add m, before each
number till they reach 20, reckoning onward thus : attahai i , ahooroo
10 ; m, attahai 11, &c. ; ta5o 20, attahai, taoo 21 ; and fo onto five,
creema taoo, five twenties, or 100. But at calculation they are no
adepts.
They compute dirtances by the time it takes to pafs from one place
to another. They mcafure their fifhing-lines by the fathom, or fpan,
and found depths of water as accurately as ourfelvcs.
The common dwellings are about eighteen feet in the ridge-tree,
oblong, and roimdcd at the ends . The furniture confifts of a few wooden
trays and flools for making their puddings, pofts to hang their baflccts
of different forts to ftore fheir provifions, a large cheft on which the
mafter and miftrefs of the houfe often fleep, or on the floor fpread
with matting and cloth, and covered with the fame ; frequently they
employ a canoe-houfe juft fufficient for their length, and too low for
them to fland eredl; and fometimes a bedflcad: many in fine weather
fleep in the open air. Their pillow is a little wooden ftool, neatly
wrought out of one block j and they who have no fuch, take the flool
they fit upon in their canoes. Their ufual feat is the ground, crofs-
legged J but they have feats with which they are always ready to com-
pliment a ftranger. The unmarried women lleep next their parents, and
342 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
occupy one end of the houfe ; the unmarried men the other. The
fcr\'ants ufiially fleep in the women's eating-houfe, or near it.
Their houfes are full of fleas, which harbour in the floor, and are
very troublefome; though the natives are much lefs affecSed by them
than we are : they fay they were brought to them by the Europeans,
One of our mifllonaries writes, he has been obliged to get up at mid-
night, and to run into the fea to cool himfelf, and get rid of the
fwarm of difagreeable companions. This, among other caufes, has
made the call for bedfleads great, as they find the comfort of this
mode of fleeping. Their bed-clothes are the garments they wear, if
they have no other, which is frequently the cafe with the common
people and fervants, who, in that warm climate, little trouble them-
felves about clothes or the care of them.
They have no partitions in their houfes ; but, it may be affirmed,
they have in many inftances more refined ideas of decency than our-
felves ; and one, long a refident, fcruples not to declare, that he never
faw any appetite, hunger and thirft excepted, gratified in public.
It is too true, that for the fake of gaining our extraordinary curio-
fities, and to pleafe our brutes, they have appeared immodeft in the
extreme. Yet they lay the charge wholly at our door, and fay that
Englifhmen are aftiamed of nothing, and that we have led them to
public adts of indecency never before pradlifed among themfelves.
Iron here, more precious than gold, beflrs down every barrier of
rellraint : honefly and modefty yield to the force of temptation.
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 343
SECTION IV.
Deities of the South Seas.
THOUGH the world was at firft of one fpeech and one religion,
all confefTing Jehovah in triune exiflence, the true tradition began
foon to be obfcurcd. On the difperfion of mankind, gods many and
lords many were created. The Eafl:, amidft its thoufand deities, ftill
preferved fome traces of the triune God. Whoever reads the ingenious
Mr. Morris's account of India will receive fmgularly curious inform-
ation on this fubje(ft. However abfurd the notions of deity and
creation may appear, now retained by the Otaheiteans, the moft
polifhed nations of Greece and Rome devoutly embraced equal ab-
furdities. It Ihould afford matter of great thankfulnefs, that we have
been refcued from the darknefs of idolatry. So far at leaft hath the
world been indebted to Chriftianity, that wherever this hath pre-
vailed, before it every idol hath mouldered into duft.
The deities of Otahcite are nearly as numerous as the perfons of
the inhabitants. Every family has its fee, or guardian fpirit, whom
they fet up, and worfliip at the morai : but they have a great god or
gods of a fuperior order, denominated Fw ha now Po, born of night.
The general name for deity, in all its ramifications, is Eatooa.
Three are held fupreme ; landing in a height of celeftial dignity
that no others can approach unto : and, what is more extraordinary,
the names are perfonal appellations :
1. Tane, te Medooa,
the Father,
2. Oromattow, 'Tooa tee te Myde,
God in the Son.
3. Taroa, Mannoo te Hooa,
the Birdf the Spirit.
To thefe, the dii majores, they only addrefs their prayers in times
^^_^ FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [AprENoix.
of greatcfl: diflrcfs, and feafons of peculiar exigency, fuppofing them
too exalted to be troubled with matters of lefs moment than the illnefs
of a chief, florms, devaftations, war, or any great calamity. Indeed,
fear and fufferin"- feem to be more powerful motives to worfliip than
gratitude. The houfe of thefe fwhanow po is at Oparre, where the
chief earic rahie refidcs.
The following names of other gods are colledted : Orohho, Otoo,
Tamaharro, Tey'erec, Orouhatoo, Oehawhow, Tamma, Toaheite,
Vaveah.
For "cneral worfliip they have an inferior race, a kind of dii
penates. Each family has its tee or guardian fpirit : he is fuppofed
to be one of their departed relatives, who, for his fuperior excellencies,
has been exalted to an eatooa. They fuppofe this fpirit can inflid;
ficknefs or remove it, and preferve them from a malignant deity who
alfo bears the name tee, and is always employed in mifchief.
They have a tradition, that once in their anger the great gods
broke the whole world into pieces ; and that all the iflands around
them are but little parts of what was once vcnooa noe, the great land,
of which their own ifland is the eminent part. A curious conver-
fation held with Manne Manne, the high pried, and Taata Orero,
the orator and oracle of the country for tradition, is as follows in-
terpreted by the Swede Andrew :
In the beginning, Tane took Taroa, and begat Avye, frefli water;
Atye, or Te Myde, the fea j alfo Awa, the water-fpout ; Matai, the
wind ; Arye, the flcy ; and Po, the night ; then Mahanna, the fun,
in the fhape of a man called Oerba Tabooa : when he was bom, all
his brethren and fifters turned to earth ; only a daughter was left, by
name Townoo ; fhe became the wife of Oeroa Tabooa, by whom fhe
conceived thirteen children, who are the thirteen months : i . Papeeree ;
2. Ownoonoo; 3. Paroromooa j 4. Paroromoree5 5. Mooreehaj 6.
Heaiha; 7. Taoa ; 8. Hoorororera ; 9. Hooreeama ; 10. Teayre j
II. Tetai ; 12. Waeaho; 13. Weaha.
Townoo now returned to earth, and Oeroa Tabooa embraced a
rock called Poppoharra Harreha, which conceived a fon named Tetoo-
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA. ISLANDS. 345
boo amata hatoo ; after which the rock returned to its original flate,
and the father of the months himfelf died, and went to duft. The
fon he left embraced the fand of the fca, which conceived a fon
of the name of Tee, and a daughter called Opeera ; then he alfo
died, and returned to the earth. Tee took his filler Opeera to
wife, who produced a daughter Oheera, Recne, Moonoa ; the mo-
ther died, and the father furvived : in her illnefs fhe entreated her
liuiband to cure her, and flie would do the fame for him if he fell
fick, and thus they might live for ever; but the hufband refufed,
and preferred her daughter, whom, on her deceafe, he took for his
"wife. The daughter bore him three fons and three daughters : the
fons, Ora, Wanoo, Tytory ; the daughters, Hcnnatoomorrooroo,
Henaroa, Noowya. The father and mother dying, the brothers faid.
Let us take our lifters to wife, and become many. So men began to
multiply upon the earth.
Refpefting a future flate, they fuppofe no perfon perifhes or becomes
extindt. They allow no punifhment after death, but degrees of
eminence and felfcity, as men have been here moft pleafing to the deity.
They regard the fpirits of their anceflors, male and female, as exalted
into eatooas, and their favour to be fecured by prayers and offerings.
Every ficknefs and untoward accident they efteem as the hand of
judgment for fome offence committed; and therefore, if they have
injured any perfon, they fend their peace-offering, and make the
matter up : and if fick, fend for the prieft to offer up prayers and
facrifices to pacify the offended eatSoa ; giving any thing the priefls
alk, as being very reludant to die. But if they find their cafe def-
perate, they take leave of their friends, and commend them to the
guardian fpirits, exhorting them to be more careful of offending them
than they themfelves had been. When the fpirit departs from the
body, they have a notion it is fwallowed by the eatooa bird, who
frequents their burying-places and morals ; and paffes through him
in order to be purified, and be united to the deity. And fuch are
Y Y
346 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
afterwards employed by him to attend other human beings, and to
inflidl punilhment, or remove ficknefs, as fhall be judged requifite. .
The evil demon named Tee has no power but upon earth ; and this
he exercifes by getting into them with their food, and caufing mad-
nefs or other difeafes ; but thefe they imagine their tutelar faints, if
propitious, can prevent or remove.
They believe the ftars were the children of the fun and moon,
attributing every fubftance to procreative power ; and when the fun
and moon are eclipfcd, they fuppofe them in the adl of copula-
tion; and pretend to foretel, from their appearance at fuch times, the
future events of war, ficknefs, or the like.
They imagine when a flar fhoots (as we call it), it is the Eatooa :
that in the moon there is a vafl: country with trees and fruits : that a
bird of Otaheite once flew up thither, and ate of the fruit ; and on
his return, dropped fome of the feeds, from which a great tree fprang,
of which the bird ftill eats, and of no other.
With regard to their worfhip, Captain Cook does the Otaheiteans
but juftice in faying, they reproach many who bear the name of
Chriftian. You fee no inftances of an Otaheitean drawing near the
Eatooa with careleffnefs and inattention ; he is all devotion ; he ap-
proaches the place of worfliip with reverential awe ; uncovers when
he treads on facred ground ; and prays with a fervour that would do
honour to a better profeffion. He firmly credits the trad.tion^ of his
anceftors. None dares difpute the exiftcnce of deity. They put
great confidence in dreams, and fuppofe in fleep the foul leaves the
body under the care of the guardian angel, and moves at large through
the regions of fpirits. Thus they fay. My foul was fuch a night in
fuch a place, and faw fuch a fpirit. When a perfon dies, they fay
his foul is fled away, karre po, gone to night. It is fingular, that
Pomarre declared to the miffionaries that he had, before their arrival,
been dreaming about the f peaking book, which they fhould bring
from the Eatooa^
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 347
They entertain a high idea of the power of fpirits. In the beautiful
and romantic view of Taloo harbour the remarkable peaked mountain
is faid to be but a part of the original one. Some fpirits from Uhctea
had broken off the other half, and were tranfporting it down the bay,
in order to carry it away with them, but, being overtaken by the
break of day, they were obliged to drop it near the mouth of the
harbour, where it now flands confpicuous as a rock ; for, like the
elves and fairies of our anceftors, thefe fpirits walk and work by night.
Their fuperftitious notions of this kind are endlefs ; unhappily, their
moft unnatural and cruel cuftoms are connedted with them, and they
are tenacious of the worft, fearing the negledl of thefe, though inad-
vertently, would bring down the difpleafure of the Eatooa upon them,
and expofe them to fickaefs or death.
SECTION V.
Priejihood and Sacrifices.
THE priefls at the Society Iflands are a pretty numerous body ;
they are in every diftridl : Manne Manne feems to be the firft among
them for knowledge and traditionary information : he is alfo monarch
of Ulietea by right, though an exile. Temarre, the chief of Pappara,
of the feed royal, is alfo high in the facerdotal office. The priefthood
is divided into two orders : the tahowra morai, and the tahowra
Eatooa. As tahowra morai, they officiate in all the prayers and oblations
made at the morais : thefe prayers are uttered in a chant that cannot be
underflood, and was fuppofed to be a peculiar facrcd language ; but
that is now thought to be a miftake, and the obfcurity owing to the
mere manner of utterance. All the chiefs officiate as pricfts on fome
Y Y 2
348 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
occafions, praying for their friends when fick, making offerings at
the morai, and performing other religious ceremonies.
The priefts have plenty of employment, being called in on all
occafions, births or deaths, feafts or ficknefs ; and are the phyficians
as well as clergy of the country. They affeft to poffefs extraordinary-
powers, to promote conception or abortion, to inflid: difeafes or re-
move them at their pleafure, and are greatly feared on that account.
They are fuppofed to be able to pray the evil, fpirit into the food, by
rubbing a human fkull with a part of the provifions they eat ; and
fometimcs to kill men outright. Thus Orepiah is fuppofed to have
died' by Manne Manne's conjuration. They acknowledge that over us
they have no power, becaufe they know not the names of our God
and our grandfather, which is neceffary. They gave us a fpecimen
of their conjurors in one of our vifits to Temjarre. A man prefented
himfelf in an old blue coat turned up with red, his head furrounded
with numerous feathers, fo as to hide his countenance entirely : he
ran up to us with an unintelligible jargon, making a fqueaking
noife, and adtions fo wild, that we afked if the man was delirious.
The natives not feeing us at all frightened, faid it was Temarre's fon,
the Etooa etc, the little god, which killed Omiah and many others.
Having with us a great dog, he fell upon the pricfl:, who fled; at
which the natives feemed terrified, and faid he would kill us. After
a, while, the prieft returned with a club in his hand, driving like a
fury all before him, the women and children flirieking, and the
natives trembling. On this one of the brethren jumped up to protect
the dog, againft whom his rage was directed, and wrefting the club
from him, turned up the feathered cap, and difcovered a well-known
countenance, who had run away from Matavai after robbing Pyetea.
We immediately charged him with the theft ; on this he changed
countenance, and Ihewed the greateft terror. The natives interpofing
in his behalf, while we were telling them of the man and his im-
pofture, he gave us the flip, and fled j fo we faw no more of him.
He feeras to have been one of thofe called tahowra Etdoa, who
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 349
affea infpiration. Of thefc, fome pretend to belong to the particuliU
deity, others to many : fuch as claim acquaintance with the three
fupcrior eatooas are the moft confcquential, and procure high reve-
rence from the part they prefume to adl ; indeed they do it with fo
much cunnine: and addrefs, that the Swedes whom we found on the
ifland, as well as the mariners who preceded them, really believed
the appearances fupernatural, and that the devil aftually was the
agent. When they are called upon to confult the deity they affume
an odd fixntaftic drefs, enriched with red and black feathers ; to which
they fay the EatSoa is i'o partial, that on their approach to him thus,
he defcends to the earth at their call in one of the (acred birds which
frequent the morais and feed on the facrifices. As foon as the bird
lights on the morai, the Eatooa quits the bird and enters the prieft.
He inftantly begins to ftretch and yawn, and rub his arms, legs,
thighs, and body, which begins to be inflated as if the (kin of the
abdomen would burft ; his eyes are thrown into various contortions,
fometimes flaring wide, then half clofed and linking into fbupor j
while, at other times, the whole frame is agitated, and appears to
have undergone fome fudden and furprifing change. The fpeech
now becomes low, the voice fqueaking and interrupted ; then on a
fudden raifed to an aftonifliing degree. He now fpeaks intelligibly,
though affeding not to know what he faith, nor the perfons of thofc
around him ; but his words are regarded as oracular, and whatever
he aflcs for the deity, or himfelf, is never refufed, if it can be pofiibly
procured. Of this, however, the ador affefts to have no confciouf-
nefsj his colleague and affiflant, neverthelefs, takes care to minute
the claims of the deity, and receives them from the perfon on whole
account the deity was fo condefcending as thus to appear: thcfe
requirements are generally very large.
When the deity quits the pretended infpired tahowra, he doth it
with fuch convulflons and violence as leave him motionlefs on the
ground, and exhauftcd j and this is contrived to be at the moment
when the facred bird takes his flight from the morai. On coming
350 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Aiu-endix.
to himfclf he utters a loud flirick, and feems to awake as from a
profound fleep, unconfcious of every thing which hath pafled.
The pricfls who fuperintend the lower orders of the people pro-
ceed nearly in the fame manner, with variations only according to
their craft and abilities : among thefe are women, who officiate,
though not fokly, for their own fex. They think it impoffible that
a child fliould come into the world without their afliftance, though,
in fadl, they afford them none. People of property, when fick, will
fomctimes have half a dozen of thefe priefts and prieftefles praying
around them, and making offerings for them j and whichever of thefe
happens, in the ellimation of the lick perfon, to be the happy caufe of
his recovery, is fure to be well rewarded, and ever after highly
refpedled, to whatever clafs of the priefthood he may belong.
Whenever a prieft vifits a perfon of confequence he carries a young
plantain in his hand ; and before he enters the houfe offers a prayer,
flicks a leaf of the plantain in the thatch, and throws the remainder
of the tree on the roof.
Their facrifices and oblations are various and liberal. They offer to
their gods all the produdl of their ifland, hogs, dogs, fowls, fifli, and
vegetables ; and at every feafl a portion is prefented to the Eat5oa
before they prefume to take their own repaft. When a prieft de-
nounces the neceffity of a human facrifice, or, as on the inaugu-
ration of the king, cuftom requires fuch offerings, the manner of
feleding them is by a council of the chief with the ratirras. The
occafion is ftated, and the vidim pitched upon ; he is ufually a
marked character, who has been guilty of blafphemy, or fome
enormous crime, or a flranger who has fled to the diftridl for fhelter
from fome other part on account of his ill condud. The decifion
of this council is kept a profound fecret, and perhaps the only one
which is fo. They watch the opportunity of the night, when the
culprit is afleep, and difpatch him, if poffible, with one blow of a
Hone on the nape of the neck, to prevent any disfigurement of the
body } a bone of him muft not be broken, nor the corpfe mangled
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. - u
or mutilated. If a man lias been bit and disfigured by a woman,
he becomes noa, unclean for ever, and can never be offered in facri-
fice. The vidtim is placed in a baiket of cocoa-nut leaves faftencd
to a long pole, and carried in a facred canoe to the morai, when the
eye is offered to the king with the ceremonies before defcribed.
If the chief and ratlrras, on the requifition of the pricfts, declare
they can find none deferving death in their diftrid:, or refufe to pro-
vide a human facrifice, they may fubftitute a hog in his place; and
it is reported, as taking off fomething from the horror of the deed,
that none are pitched upon whole lives have not been juflly forfeited
by their crimes. Where there is no law, nor regular adminiffration
of juflice, this mode is fubflituted to difpatch a criminal, whom
his friends might refcue; but being thus executed, it is fuppofed
the choice was right, and no farther notice is taken : but what a
door this opens to partiality, private enmity, and revenge, is too
evident and Ihocking. No woman is liable to be offered at the Society
Iflands, though they appear the chief vidlims at the Friendly Iflands;
nor may they, at Otaheite, be prefent at any of the religious alfem-
blies, partake of the offerings at the morai, or tread the confecrated
ground, except on a particular occafion ; nor may they eat of any
food which has been there, or touched by thofe who officiate at the
altar i and all their male attendants are in the fame ffate of unclean-
nefs and feclufion.
The facred ground around the morals affords a fandtuary for crimi-
nals. Thither, on any apprehenfion of danger, they flee, efpecially
when numerous facrifices are cxped:ed, and cannot thence be taken
by force, though they are fometimes feduced to quit their afylum.
On the inauguration of Otoo many took refuge in the precincts of
the mutineers' habitation, which was held facred as the morai, and
where they enjoyed full protedlion. Our habitations will afford as
affured exemption ; and the whole diftrid. of Mataviii being ceded to
us, no more human facrifices will probably be demanded from us,
and fuch an example will have the moft beneficial tendency to abolifh
332 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
the cuftom in other diftrids. If we fliaU be enabled ojily to put an
end to a practice fo inhuman, and to induce the pregnant females to
prefervc and commit to our nurture the infants devoted to dellrud:ion,
we (hall acknowledge this alone would amply reward us for the
labours of love in which we are engaged.
SECTION VI.
Singular Cujloms.
WHEN a woman takes a hufband, flie immediately provides
herfelf with a fliark's tooth, which is fixed with the bread-fruit
gum on an inftrument that leaves about a quarter of an inch of the
tooth bare, for the purpofe of wounding the head, like a lancet.
Some of thefe have two or three teeth, and ftruck forcibly they
bring blood in copious ftrcams ; according to the love they bear the
party, and the violence of their grief, the ftrokes are repeated on the
head ; and this has been known to bring on fever, and termiriate in
madnefs. If any accident happens to the hufband, his relations
or friends, or their child, the fhark's tooth goes to work; and
even if the child only fall down and hurt itfelf, the blood and
tears mingle together. As the child, from the moment of his
birth, fucceeds to all the honours and dignity of his family, any
infult offered to him is felt more deeply by the parents than if
offered to themfelves. Should the child die, the houfe is prefently
filled with relations, cutting their heads and making the loudefl
lamentations.
On this occafion, in addition to other tokens of grief, the parents
vcut their hair fliort on one part of their heads, leaving the reft long.
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 2Si
Sometimes this is confined to a fquaie patch on the forehead ; at
others they leave that, and cut off all the refl: : fometimes a bunch is
left over both ears, fometimes over one only; and fometimes one
half is clipped quite clofe, and the other left to grow long : and thefc
tokens of mourning arc fometimes prolonged for two or three years.
Their marriages are performed without ceremonies, but various are
thofe which fuccced. If a woman be a virgin, the father and mother
perform an amooa, or offering, of a hog or fowl, and plantain-tree,
to their fon-in-law, before they can touch any of his provifions ;
but not if a widow, or feparated from a former hufband. The wife's
relations make a prefent of hogs, cloth, &c. to the new-married
pair. As they agree, they live either on the hufband or wife's eftate;
but if they part, each retains their own.
The feparation of the women from their hufbands on a particular
occafion, Dr. Giilham had once the opportunity of remarking. Going
into the hut of his tayo, named Poppo, very early, he obferved him
laid alone on the bedftead, and his wife lying on the floor. Inquiring
the reafon, Poppo informed him, it was becaufe fhe was at prefent
under the Otaheitean feminine infirmity.
When a woman brings forth a child, a kind of hut is raifcd within
the houfe with matting and cloth ; heated flones arc then placed,
with fweet herbs and grafs fpread over them ; on thefe water is
fprinkled, and fhe is clofe fliut up in the fleam which rifes, till flie
is in a proper perfpiration, and can endure the heat no longer ; from
this vapour-bath fhe comes out and plunges into the river, and \\'afliing
herfelf all over puts on her clothes, and takes the child to the morai.
This flie afterwards repeats, and often brings on the ague ; nor could
they be perfuaded to defifl from fo prepoilerous a cuflom, fucli being
the force of prejudice.
The child being waflied, is taken with the mother to the family
morai ; where, after the father hath made an offering of a young
pig or fowl, with a plantain-tree, the navel-firing is feparated, about
WW inches being left, by one of the priefiis, who always attends, and
z z
354 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
is paid for the operation by a hog, or cloth. A temporary houfe is
eredled on the facred ground adjoining the morai, and what is cut off
from the child is buried at the morai. In this houfe mother and
child dwell till the reft of the navcl-ftring drops off, which may be
dcpofited in the houfe, or at the morai. During this time of feclufion,
which is for a male infant a fortnight, and for a female three weeks,
the mother touches no provifions herfelf, but is fed by another; and
fliould any perfon touch the child during this time, he muft un-
dergo the fame reftridtions till the amdoa is performed, of a young
pig, or a fowl, for the mother, which finifhes this feparation for
imcleannefs. The child is then removed to another temporary houfe
on the facred ground, near the houfe in which the father and mother
refide ; but they may not touch the child in the fame clothes in
which they eat their provifions. To take off this reftridlion, a fecond
amooa muft be performed by the father and uncles, and a third by
the mother and aunts ; a fourth, before the child returns to the houfe
where the father and uncles eat ; a fifth, on the fame account for the
mother and aunts. If the child is a male, thefe are all till he is
adopted by a medooa, or godfather, when another amooa is per-
formed ; but if a female, two yet remain ; one when Ihe is married,
that the father and uncles may eat with her huft)and, and of fuch
provifions as he has touched, which otherwife they could not : the
next, that the mother and aunts may touch the fon-in-law's pro-
vifions, though they may not eat with him. Thefe laft are called
f'watatoe. Hogs and cloth are the offering for the males, for the
females only fifh. Of thefe rites they are in no wife fparing, and
much feftivity attends them.
If the child touches any thing before thefe rites are performed, it
muft be wholly appropriated to their ufe, being raa or facred ; and
if any thing touches the child's head before the amSoa is offered, it
muft be dcpofited in a confecrated place railed in for that purpofe at
the child's houfe ; and if it were the branch of a tree, as fometimes
happens in carrying it about, the tree muft be cut down ; and if in
3
Appendix] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 355
its fall it injures another tree, fo as to penetrate the bark, that tree
alfo mufl; be cut down as unclean and unfit for ufe.
The head is always regarded as facred, though, after the ceremonies
are performed, thefe demands ceafe; but they never carry any thing
upon their heads, nor can bear to have them touched without offence;
and the cuttings of their hair are buried at the morai.
Both fexes go naked till they are fix or feven years of age ; about
thirteen or fourteen the operation of tattooing the males begins, and
earlier for the females. The inftruments employed for tattooing a
chief, or head of a family, are always fent to the morai, and deftroyed
as foon as the work is completed. The females mark their hands
and feet with a number of fmall figures, and their hips with arched
lines, guided wholly by fancy as to their number and thicknefs ; but
the men tattoo their arms, legs, and thighs, as well as the buttocks ;
and a perfon without thefe honourable marks would be as much re-
proached and fhunned, as if with us he fnould go about the ftreets
naked. At thirteen or fourteen years of age the boys have an opera-
tion performed, by flitting up the prepuce with a fhark's tooth, and
aflies are fprinkled on the wound ; it is at their own option when
they choofe to have it done. The tattoo-men perform the incifion,
and receive a pig, or piece of cloth, for their trouble.
They bathe conftantly three times a day in the frefh water, and
always wafh themfelves in it after coming out of the fea j and though
men and women are together, there is not the leafl immodefty per-
mitted, and they flip through their clothes without any wanton ex-
pofures — it would be condemned in a man as much as a woman. In
their dances alone is immodefl:y permitted ; there it appears the effedt
of national habit or cufliom, as no perfon could ever be prevailed
upon to do in any private company what, when they dance in public,
is allowed without fcruple. In facfl, though chaftity and modefty
are not held in the fame eftimation with them as with us, yet many of
their married women are faid to pique themfelves on its ftri(ft obferv-
z z :a
356 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
ance, and are not to be won at any rate, being only accefllble to the
hufband's tayo.
The fingle young men, who in the heivas indulge indecent geftures,
would not dare to do fo at any other time ; and however flrangcly the
women ad in public dances, no woman of charadler would admit of im-
proper liberties el fewhere. They never uncover their breafts but when they
bathe, nor their bofom and fhoulders but in the prefence of the chief.
Their ideas, no doubt, of fliame and delicacy are very different from
ours ; they are not yet advanced to any fuch ftate of civilization
and refinement ; but the woman who failed with the fhip foon be-
came as referved in manners and drefs as any European ; and the
progrefs made in the ifland by the miffionaries in this refpedt when
the fliip returned, was evident and pleafing.
If a woman has any defeat or deformity, flie carefully conceals it ;
and when they go into the water they take with them broad leaves
to fupply the place of cloth. Their conftant bathing prevents every
difagreeable fmell from perfpiration, and their mouth and teeth being
wafhed at every meal, preferves their teeth white and their breath
fweet.
They extradt every hair from the nofe, arm-pits, &c. to prevent
its harbouring any dull or foulnefs. Their beards are ufually neatly
trimmed with fhells, and their hair fliort or long, according to their
fancy. The women, except thofe who affedt to be prophetefTes,
wear their hair fhort and decked with flowers, paying the niceft
regard to their perfons. They adjuft their brows and eyelafhes, clipping
them if too long, and forming the eyebrows into regular arches. Nor
are the men lefs attentive to their perfons, and will fit at the glafs
drefling with the greateft complacence. A black cocoa-nut fhell filled
with water ferved them for a looking-glafs, till we fupplied them
with what they fo highly prized. Fifli fcales, or fliells, formed
their tweezers, the fhark's teeth their fciffars, and the bamboo their
combs. The fragrant oil fupplies the place of pomatum, and powder
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 357
and civet can hardly furnifli greater beaus. At their heivas they put
on their beft, and drefs in the mofl tafty manner fancy can fuggcft.
Both fexes have their ears bored for ornaments ; in them they wear
pearls, or beads, hanging down about two inches in a plait of hair;
fomctimes the hole of the car is ftuck with an odoriferous flower.
They have pearls which they value very highly ; and at firft our
white beads, which refemble them, were much coveted ; but when
they found they were fpoiled with water, they ceafed to be in de-
mand. As long as they are able to move, they never neglcd: bathing;
the old, who can fcarcely crawl, get down to the river ; nor does
any ficknefs or difeafe prevent them ; nothing but utter inability re-
trains them from the water.
They produce fire in the following manner : with their teeth, or
a mufcle-lhell, they fliarpen a ftick of porou wood, and fixing a
larger piece of the fame under their feet, they with both hands and
a quick motion rub a fcore in the board at their feet till the dufl:
produced takes fire ; they have dried leaves or grafs ready, into which
they fweep this tinder duft, and wrapping it up, wave it in the
wind till it kindles into a flame : while they arc rubbing they con-
tinue finging, or chanting a hymn or prayer, till the fire is pro-
duced, in about two minutes if the wood be completely dry. In
wet weather this is a difficult taflc, and therefore they ufually then
carry about with them fire, which in the dry weather they need not
do. The women are not fuffered to kindle a fire from that made by
their hufbands, or any other man, except thofe feminine male aflb-
ciates which attend them, and are fubjedt to the fame rules.
They never fuflfer a fly to touch their food if they can help it ; and
Ihould they find one dead in their puddings, or any of their provifions,
which fometimes cannot be avoided, they throw it to the hogs.
Hence they all carry fly-flaps ; thefe are ufually made of feathers,
and fixed to a handle of wood ten or twelve inches long, fometimes
carved, fometimes plain. The wing bones of the largeft fowls,
when cleaned, are ufed for handles ; and if they have not thefe, they
353 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
fupply their place by a bough from the nearefl tree. Whenever you
enter a houfe, or approach a place where provifions are preparing,
this is the firfl: thing they offer you. When the provifions are
dreffed and hot before you, the boys continue to fan away the flies
•with fly-flaps, nothing being more offenfive or difagreeable than that
a fly fliould get into their mouths ; and their averfion to touch them
with their hands is fuch, that fliould a dead fly be found on any
part of their body, they would go inflantly to the river and wafli
themfelves. Thefe flies at times are numerous, but not fo venomous
as the muflcetoes in the Wefl: Indies : they are of two forts, the
common black fly, and a gray one of the fame fize, which fometimes
flings fliarply. They have alfo butterflies, butterfly moths, muf-
lcetoes, lizards, fcorpions, centipedes, beetles, crickets, grafshoppers,
fmall ants, fand-flies, and others ; but neither dangerous nor very
troublefome.
The middle-aged of all clafles generally take a nap at noon, during
the heat of the day. To this the yava, among thofe who drink it,
does not a little difpofe. The aged, as more watchful, need not this
indulgence; and the youth, too lively to fleep during the daylight,
find always fome fport or amufement to employ them.
During the night, if ftrangers lodge with them, they burn the
candle-nut, ftuck on flcewers, that they may find their way in and
out of the houfe without incommodation from thofe who fleep on
the floor, fometimes to the amount of fifty or fixty perfons. Nor
was it unufual to get up and have provifions ready in the night ; and
fome fit and chat, and tell ftories, with which they are always de-
lighted. We obferved that thofe which regarded us, and our European
manners and cufloms, lefs interefted them than their own, as their
minds were not enlarged to a capacity of comprehending the reports
which were made, and thefe too often fabulous. One navigator told
them, we had fliips as much larger than his as that was bigger than
their fmalleft canoes ; that we had veflels which would reach from
Otaheite to Ulietea, about forty-five leagues ; and of fo vaft a height,
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 359
that a young man going to the topmaft-hcad grew gray before he
came down again j that our round tops contained forefts of fruit-trees
bigger than the bread-fruit. Pomiirre very earncftly prcfTcd Captain
Wilfon to fay if it was true; but though undeceived in this refpedl,
they are as much ftaggered at hearing of a houfe of ftone of ten
flories, or a bridge over a river of the fame materials, as wide as
would fpan the narrow part of their valleys from mountain to moun-
tain. Such gigantic ideas exceed the fcopc of their intelled: ; but
whatever was related of the Marquefas, or Tongataboo, their inha-
bitants, country, manners, trees, canoes, was heard with the greateft
avidity, and always drew an audience about the relator, beyond even
their favourite national ftories.
They lay not the leaft reftraint upon their children from the day
they are born j being the head of their families, they are indulged in
every thing : they have their own amufements, called heiva tama
reede ; as they grow up and advance to manhood thefe are generally
abandoned ; but none are controlled by any authority, and any one
may continue in them if he pleafes.
Though in fome refpedls they arc not at all delicate, yet in con-
fequence of their frequent bathings, in the largeft companies there
is nothing offenfive but the heat. Here, as clfcwhere, there are
fome who make a trade of beauty, and know too how to make their
advantage of it, having a number of pimps and bawds, nominal
relations, who agree for and receive the price of proftitution ; but if
a perfon is the tayo of the hufband, he muft indulge in no liberties
with the fifters or the daughters, becaufe they are confidered as
his own fifters or daughters, and inceft is held in abhorrence by
them ; nor will any temptation engage them to violate this bond of
purity. The wife, however, is excepted, and confidered as common
property for the tayo. Lieutenant Corner alfo added, that a tayofliip
formed between different fexes put the moft folemn barrier againft
all perfonal liberties. Our brethren who are returned, however.
360 FIRST MISSIONA.RY VOYAGE [Appendix.
think this not to be the cafe ; or that they have, fince his vifit, de-
generated. The women of qiiahty allow themfelves greater liberties
than their inferiors ; and many of the arreoy women pride themfelves
on the number of their admirers, and live in a fearfully promifcuous
intercourfe. Few children can be the confequence, and thefe are
univerfally murdered the moment they are born. Yet, with all this,
many are true and tender wives; their large families prove their
facred attachment to the individual with whom they are united ; and
our European failors who have cohabited with them have declared, that
more faithful and affed:ionate creatures to them and their children
could no where be found. The hiftory of Peggy Stewart marks a
tendernefs of heart that never will be heard without emotion : flie
was daughter of a chief, and taken for his wife by Mr. Stewart,
one of the unhappy mutineers. They had lived with the old chief
in the moft tender fi:ate of endearment ; a beautiful little girl had
been the fruit of their union, and was at the breaft when the Pan-
dora arrived, feized the criminals, and fecured them in irons on board
the fliip. Frantic with grief, the unhappy Peggy (for fo he had named
her) flew with her infant in a canoe to the arms of her hulband. The
interview was fo affed;ing and afiliding, that the officers on board were
overwhelmed with anguifli, and Stewart himfelf, unable to bear the
heart-rending fcene, begged fhe might not be admitted again on board.
She was feparated from him by violence, and conveyed on fhore in
a ftate of defpair and grief too big for utterance. Withheld from
him, and forbidden to come any more on board, fhe funk into the
deepefl: dejection ; it preyed on her vitals ; fhe loft all relifli for food
and life ; rejoiced no more j pined under a rapid decay of two months,
and fell a vidtim to her feelings, dying literally of a broken heart.
Her child is yet alive, and the tender object of our care, having
been brought up by a fifter, who nurfed it as her own, and has dif-
charged all the duties of an affedlionate mother to the orphan infant.
They are very fond of dogs, and efpecially thofe with a bufliy
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 361
tail, the hair of which they employ in their fine brcaft-platcs ; and
the women often not only fondle the puppies, but fuckle them at their
breafts.
The women are not permitted to eat with the men, nor may they
drink out of the fame cup. Many kinds of food are utterly forbidden
them ; and thofe which they may ufe, arc gathered and drcfled
by themfelves, or by thofe feminine male afTociates who wait upon
them, and live with them. If a man touch their peculiar food,
they are obliged to throw it away. No reprefentation of a ^s'oman is
permitted at any of their morais.
But of alii their cuftoms, thofe marked with greatell: horror are
the infant murders committed in the arreoy fociety, and of female
children, too common out of it j their human facrifices, and their
abominable mawhoos : thefe, with the wars fo frequent, and the
difeafes which deftroy the very principle of life, threaten to depo-
pulate a country, fruitful as the garden of the Hefperides ; and they
mull, if our labours do not fucceed, become in the next generation
extindt, without fire from heaven.
A pradlice of a kind fo abominably filthy as fcarce to be credited,
was communicated by the Swede, and confirmed by one of the
Otaheiteans who was prefent — that there had been a fociety at Otaheitc
and Eimeo, who, in their meetings, always ate human excrement,
but that it had been fupprcfled by the other natives of Otaheite.
They have a mode of lulling themfelves to reft : the hufband and
wife, when they lie down, take their pipe of three notes, which they
blow with their noftrils ; one plays whilft the other chants in unifon
with it ; and this they continue alternately till they fall afleep. ^
Their generofity is boundlefs, and appears exceflive : the inftances
our brethren record are furprifing. Not only cart-loads of provifion
more than they could confume were fent in for the whole body, but
individuals have received the moft furprifing abundance, without any
adequate return even exped:ed or fuggefted. To one of the milfionaries
3 A
Sl52 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
was given as a prcfent a double canoe, with a travelling houfe, three
large pearls, a fine feine, a beautiful feathered breaft-plat|, two large
hogs, flmdal wood, cloth, and fine mats in abundance, with various
other things ; and fimilar inflances may be obferved in the narrative.
They have not always regular meals ; but ufually eat as foon as they
rife at daybreak. Some are very voracious, efpecially the chiefs.
Pomarre hath eaten a couple of fowls, and two pounds, at leaft, of
pork, befides other things, at a meal with us on board. The chiefs
all live luxurioufly : they only work for their amufement ; have more
wives than one amidft the fcarcity of women ; drink daily the yava ;
when they fleep are fanned and chafed by their women ; and often
lit up great part of the night at their heivas and entertainments.
They have a very fimilar way of exp refining their joy as well as
forrow; for whether a relation dies, or a dear friend returns from a
journey, the lliark's tooth inftrument, with which every woman
furniflies herfelf at her marriage, is again employed, and the blood
flreams down. As our brethren fignified their utter difapprobation of
thefe felf-inflidled cruelties, they prevailed with the natives to fufpend
for us, at leaft, fuch tokens of delight; and taught them to fhakc
hands, or welcome us with fmiles, inftead of ftreams of blood.
Among the moft uncommon cuftoms, we may add the difhonour
and difrefped: paid to old age. The advanced in years are thruft
afide, and receive little or no attention. Even the reverend Otey (for-
merly Whappai, and called by Vancouver, Taow), with his venerable
white beard, the father of Pomarre, and the grandfather of Otoo, was
fcarcely noticed by them : they would hardly permit him to enter the
^bin when on board ; and unlefs the captain exprefsly called to him,
they kept him alongfide in his canoe. One of our old feamen was often
the objed: of their ridicule. In difcourfe, when any thing refufe was
mentioned, they called it •' old man." At Tongataboo we noticed
the very reverfe : in the prefence of the aged the younger perfons
obferved a moft refpcdful filcnce.
x\.ppENDix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 363
Their mode of falutation is very different from ours : they touch
nofes ; and wonder that we can exprcfs afFcdion by wetting one
another's faces with our lips.
In war they pradlife no difciphne, and are under no obhgation to
fight longer than they like; and it is much lefs difgraceful to run
away from an enemy with whole bones, than to fight and be
wounded; for this, they fay, would prove a man rather foolifh than
warlike. Except a man has killed an enemy, he is not efleemed a
warrior ; and though they dread a fear as diflionourablc, they figlit
with a fury bordering on madnefs, as they know the lofs of a battle
would be the lofs of all their property, which, though of incon-
fiderable value, they are reluftant to be deprived of, not fo much from
any covetous defire of pofTefTrng, as from their priding themfelves on
their generofity, and baring fomething to give; and this they do
with a grace that adds ftill more to the favour.
When a perfon of eminence dies, even if a child of the fupcrior
clafs, he is prefcrved, and not buried, unlefs he died of fome conta-
gious or oflfenfive difeafe. They take out the vifcera, and dry the
body with cloth, aaointing it within and without with the perfumed
oil ; and this is frequently repeated. The perfon who performs this
office is counted unclean, and may not touch provifions or feed him-
felf for a month. The relatioixs and friends who are abfent, perform
their part of the funeral rites at their arrival, each female prefenting a
piece of cloth to the corpfe ; and they continue to drefs and decorate
the body as if alive, and to furnifli it with provifions, fuppofing that
the foul which hovers round receives fatisfad:ion from fuch marks of
attention; they therefore not only take care of it thus, but rep^
before it fome of the tender fcenes which happened during their life-
time, and wiping the blood which the fhark's teeth has drawn,
depofit the cloth on the tupapow, as the proof of their afFecftion.
Whilft any ofienfive fmell remains, they furround the corpfe with
garlands of flgwsrs, and bring the fweet-fcented oil to anoint it.
3 A, a
,64 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
If a chief dies, he is carried round the ifland to the diftridls where
he had property, or where his particular friends re fide ; and the
funeral ceremony is repeated : after a tour of fome months, he returns
to reft at the place of his ufual refidence. Some bodies are preferved
like dried parchment; others, when the flefli is mouldered away,
after lying on the tupapow, are buried.
The preferved corpfes are called tupapow mure, and kept above
ground ; and thefe, in war, are as liable to be taken prifoners as the
living, and are as great a trophy as an enemy flain in battle. The
man who takes the body affumes the chieftain's name ; therefore, in
time of invafion, thefe are generally the firft things conveyed to the
mountains, as a place of fecurity : thither, alfo, they carry Captain
Cook's pidure, the lofs of which would be efteemed as afflidive as
that of a chief; and the conquerors might lay claim to the diftrid:
allotted to him, according to their laws of fucceffion.
The priefts never pray over the dead, unlefs they die of fome
infediious diforder, and then they entreat him to bury the difeafe
with him in the grave, and not inflidl it on any other perfon when
he is fent back as an eatooa. They throw a plantain-tree into the
grave, and bury with him, or burn, all his utenfils, that no perfon
may be infedled by them.
They bury none in the moral, but thofe offered in facrifice, or
flain in battle, or the children of chiefs which have been ftrangled at
the birth — an adl of atrocious inhumanity too common. When, at
laft, after the flefh is confumed above ground, they bury the bones,
they often preferve the fkull, as a precious relic, wrapping it in
cloth, and keeping it with great care in a frame or box in their
houfe, as a teftimony of their affedlion.
When any friend, or a ftranger, vifits a fiimily, he is received
with the moft cordial welcome. The mafter and miftrefs, and
perhaps all in the houfe, call out, and repeat it, Mannowwa, welcome;
to which the vifitor replies, Harre minay, I am coming : thofe of the
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 365
houfe anfwer, Yourana t'Eatooa, God blefs you ; to which the reply-
is, Tayeeay, here, and then fits down. The occafion of his vifit and
his willies are demanded by the mafter of the family, and anfwered
with the greateft franknefs. Inftantly preparation is made of a pig,
or fowl, to entertain the Granger j and if it is more than can be
eaten, it is put into a balket, and fcnt with him home : meantime,
whatever he requefts is given, if in the power of the hoft; and if
not, he fends round to his friends and neighbours to procure it : this
alfo is accompanied with a prcfent of cloth and perfumed oil, or
fomething which hath cofi: them labour, as they fay provifions come
fpontaneoufly, and are to be made little ftore of; but what is manu-
fadlured, or obtained with toil, is beft fuited to be given or received
as prefents. If any perfon fneezes, they ufe the fame falutation,
God blefs you, yourana t'Eatooa.
They never return thanks, nor feem to have a word in their language
expreilive of that idea. Should they not meet with a cordial welcome,
they would fay fo without fcruple to the next perfon they vifited,
which would be highly difgraceful to the offender, as their eftabliflied
law of hofpitality is to entertain all flrangers j and many make the
tour of the ifland for months together, fare to find every where
a cordial reception.
When a chief, or ftranger of rank, vifits them from another ifland,
all the men of his own ftation in life prefent their ootdoo, or peace-
offering. He is feated in the houfe of ftrangers, feveral being ereded
for this very purpofe, vaft and fpacious ; the chiefs of the diftridt
affemble round him, with a prieft, who makes a long prayer, or
oration ; and having feveral young plantain-trees, he ties a bunch of
red feathers to one of them, and with a pig or fowl, lays it at the
ftranger's feet, who takes the feathers, and flicks them in his car, or
his hair. The priefls of the inferior fecondary chiefs repeat a like
offering, and a feafl is immediately provided, with prefents of cloth,
hogs, &c. If a ratirra vifits, he will flill find a more numerous body to
receive him j and though the feafl may not be as fumptuous, there are
3«; FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
lb many to welcome him of his own rank, that he may ftay a month
in a dillridl, and vifit round every day : indeed they are feldom in
hafte. Nor are the lower clalTes lefs hofpitable according to their
ability ; and every where there is fuch plenty of food and raiment,
that fome of them continue wandering over the ifland for many years
too-ether, and never find lack of fuftenance.
From one caufe or another, they frequently change their names ;
fo that a pcrfon abfent from them a few years, would be at a lofs to
find out thofe with whom he was bell acquainted, unlcfs he met
them. The names of places and things are continued, unlefs they
happen to confift of fyllables containing the king's name, in which
cafe, during his lifetime, they are changed, but at his death the
common name is refumed.
They have an averfion to compare the fize of any food to
a perfon's head, and regard this as a fpecies of blafphemy and infult.
A hand laid on the head would be a high offence. One of thofe
feamen who redded on the ifland, a brute, in outrage of their cuftoms,
would carry provifions on his head, and was regarded with horror as
a cannibal : they have even different names for the head of a hog,
dog, a bird, a fifh.
If a man eats in a houfe with a woman, he takes one end, and
fhe the other, and they fleep in the middle. If a woman has a child,
the provifions for it mufl not come in at the fame door with the
mother's ; but there is an opening like a window, through which
they are received ; and it would be reckoned beaftly in the highefl
degree for her to eat whilft fhe is fuckling her child. When they
travel, their provifions mufl be carried in feparate canoes.
The cuflom of uncovering before the chiefs is univerfal. We have
introduced, however, it is faid, a mode of evading it : if any man
or woman be clothed in a fhirt, or coat, of European cloth, or has a
hat of our manufadure, he is not obliged to be unclothed : it fuf^ices
if he removes the piece of Otaheite cloth which is over his fhoulders.
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 367
SECTION VII.
Amufements.
THEIR life is without toil, and every man at liberty to do, go,
and adl as he pleafes, without the diftrefs of care, or apprchenfion of
want ; and as their Icifure is great, their fports and amufements arc
various.
Of thefe, fwimming in the furf appears to afford tliem fingular
delight. At this fport both fexcs are very dexterous ; and the
diverfion is reckoned great in proportion as the furf runs highcft, and
breaks with the greateft violence : they will continue at it for hours
together, till they are tired. Some make ufe of a fmall board, two
feet and a half, or more, formed with a fliarp point, like the fore-
part of a canoe ; but others ufe none, and depend wholly on their own
dexterity. They fwim out beyond where the fwell of the furf
begins, which they follow as it rifes, throwing themfclves on the
top of the wave, and fleering themfelves with one leg, whilft the
other is raifed out of the water, their breafh repofing on the plank,
and one hand moving them forward, till the furf begins to gather
way : as the rapidity of its motion increafes, they are carried onward
with the moft amazing velocity, till the furf is ready to break on the
fhore, when, in a moment, they fteer themfelves round with {o quick
a movement as to dart head forcmoft through the wave, and rifing on
the outlide, fwim back again to the place where the furf firfl begins
to fwell, diving all the way through the waves, which arc running
furioufly on the fhore.
In the courfe of this amufement they fomctimes run foul of each
other, when many are fwimming together ; thofe who are coming on
not being able to flop their motion, and thofe who are moving the
^68 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
contrary way, unable to keep their fufficient diftance, fo that they
are carried together by the ruflaing wave, and hurled neck and heels
on fliore before they can difembarrafs themfelves, and get well bruifed
on their landing. The women are excellent at this fport ; and Iddeah,
the queen mother, is reckoned the moft expert in the whole ifland.
The children take the fame diverfion in a weaker furf, learning to
fwim as foon as they learn to walk, and feldom meet wuth any acci-
dent, except being dallied on the beach ; but hardly ever a perfon is
drowned. If a fliark comes in among them, they all furround him,
and force him on fhore, if they can but once get him into the furf,
thou-rh they ufe no inftruments for the purpofe; and fliould he
efcape, they continue their fport, unapprehenlive of danger. This
diverfion is mofl common when the wefterly winds prevail, as they
are always attended with a heavy fwell, which continues many days
after the bad weather is abated.
Their amufements on fhore are, throwing the fpear, or javelin,
fhooting with bows and arrows, wreftling, dancing, and feveral other
games ; at all which the women have their turn as well as the men ;
but they always play feparately from each other.
The javelins are from eight to fourteen feet long, and pointed with
the fwharra, or palm-tree. Thefe they hurl at a mark fet up at the
diftance of thirty or forty yards, with great exadlnefs. They hold the
fpear in the right hand, and poife it over the fore-finger of the left. At
this game one diftridl often plays againft another, but never for any
wager, only the diftridt in which they play provides an entertain-
ment.
Their bows are made 6f porow, and their arrows of fmall bamboos »
pointed with toa wood, which they fix on with bread-fruit gum.
The bow-ftrings are made of the bark of the roava ; with thefe they
fhoot againft each other, not at a mark, but for the greateft diftance.
They never ufe this inftrument in war ; and the clothes they wear on
this occafion are facred to the game, and never vvorn at any other
time. Since they have learned the ufe of nwre deftrudive weapons.
APPENDIX.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 369
the guns, whicli they have procured Jfrom us, they are faiJ to have'
become excellent markfmen.
They are dexterous wrelHers. When they challenge each other
they ftrike the bend of the left arm with the right hand, and if left-
handed, reverfe it. The arm being bent, receives the hand on
its cavity, and makes a loud report. The man who returns the clap,
accepts the challenge, and throws both arms forward, as if to lay-
hold of his antagonift. The ring is immediately formed, and they
clofe with each other. As foon as the ftruggle ifllies in the fall
of either, he filcntly retires, nor incurs any difgrace, and the
conqueror goes clapping round the ring. If they wrcftle one diflrid:
againft another, the women always wreflle firft, and the men
fucceed. At this, Iddeah, the queen-mother, excels ; and when
the party is won or loft, the women of the vidorious diftrid ftrike
up a dance. Iddeah is ufually miftrefs of the ceremonies, and ap-
points the number of falls which fliall be made : the party which
gains that number firft, is adjudged the vitflor; and the vanquifhed
exprefs not the leaft diffatisfadion. In general, the women bear their
foils worfe than the men, and betray moft figns of anger at being
vvorfted.
They frequently exercife at quarter-flafF; and arc very expert
at defending their head, and all other parts of their body : this they
pradtife from their tendereft age. The fcience of defence is a chief
objed J for a wound in war confers no honour, but rather difgrace j
therefore they always hide the fear, ifpoiTible,
They pradife the fling for amufement, as well as employ it
in battle, and throw a ftone with great force and tolerable exadnefs.
Their flings are made from the plaited fibres of the cocoa-nut huflc,
having a broader part to receive the ftone: at one end is a loop for the
hand, in order to keep -the fling faft when they difcharge the ftone.
Ill charging the fling they hold it round their flioulders, keeping the
ftone faft in it with their left thumb, and jumping, fwing tiic fling
tliree times round their heads, holding the left hand grafped on the
3 B
FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
3/ °
wrill of the right, and thus difcharge the ftone with a force fufficient
to enter the bark of a tree at two hundred yards diftance ; the flone
flyinn- at an equal diftance from the ground, hke a bullet, all the
way.
Their dances are various. The heiva is performed by men and
women in fcparate parties. The women are moft gracefully dreffed,
and keep exad time with the mufic during the performance, obferving
a regular movement both of hands and feet, though nothing refem-
blino- our dances. The heiva is ufually performed by torch-light.
The manner is exadlly reprefented in Cook's Voyages. They gene-
rally dance under cover; but, by day, before the houfes, unlefs it
rains, having large mats fpread on the grafs. The women's drefs
is a long white petticoat of fine cloth, with a red border, and a red
ftripe about ten inches from the bottom ; a kind of veft, or corflet,
made of white or coloured cloth, comes clofe up under the arms, and
covers the breafts ; to this they attach two bunches of black feathers
at the point of each breaft ; feveral taffels of the fame hang round the
waift, and fall as low as the knees. Two or three red or black feathers
on each fore-finger fupply the place of rings. On the back, from
the fhoulder to the hip, are fixed two large pieces of cloth neatly
plaited, like a fan or furbelow, and edged with red. Their heads
are ornamented with the tamou, or vaft braids of human hair
wrapped round like a turban, and ftuck full of fragrant and beautiful
flowers, intermixed with beads and fhark's teeth : our fine writing-
paper was alfo fometimes applied in addition to thefe ornaments.
A mafter of ceremonies direfts the movements of the dancers ; and
when the women retire, their places are fupplied by a chorus, who
fing with the mufic, or by adtors, who perform pantomimes, feizing
the manners of their European vifitors, which they imitate in great
perfedlion : not fparing the condudl of their own chiefs, when objects
of fatire ; which fcrves as a falutary check and admonition; for if they
are faulty, they are fure to be publicly expofed.
The houfes in which the heivas are performed are open at the ends
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 371
and in front, the back being fcrecncd by matting of cocoa-nut loaves :
round the ends and in front of the houfe there is a low railing of
about a foot in height, within which the performers exhibit ; and
without, the audience fit or fland : the area before the houfe and the
floor are all covered with matting.
Any number of women may perform at once ; but as the drcfs is
very expenfive, feldom more than two or four dance ; and when this
is done before the chief, the dreffcs are prefented to him after the
heiva is finiflied; and thefe contain thirty or forty yards of cloth, from
one to four yards wide.
The ponnara, or evening dance, is performed by any number of
women, of any age or defcription, who chufe to attend at the place
appointed, which is ufually the cool fliadc. They are dreflcd in
their bell apparel, and their heads decorated with wreaths of flowers.
They divide into two equal parts, about twenty yards diftant, and
placing themfelves in rows oppofite to each other, a fmall green
bread-fruit is brought by way of a football. The leading dancer of one
party takes this in her hand, and, ftepping out about midway, drops
it before her, and fends it with her foot to the oppofite row, returning
to her place ; if the ball efcapes, without being flopped in its courfc
before it touches the ground, they ftrike up the dance and fing, beating
time with their hands and feet ; this lafts about five minutes, whm
they prepare to receive the ball from the other party who have flood
ftill : if they catch the ball, they return it again ; if it efcape them, the
other party dance in their turn. After thus amufing themfelves and
the fpedlators for fome hours, the ball is kicked away, and both
parties flrike up together. It is at this time they ufe the lewd gc{»
tures defcribed by fome of our voyagers ; but thefe only are pradifcd
by the young and wanton, who (fays the reporter) are no more to be
taken for the flandard of manners than the ladies in the Strand, or the
fea-nymphs at Spithead, would be fpecimens of our fair country-
women.
3B 2
2-J2 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Aiu-lndix.
SECTION VOL
Tvovifions and Cookery,
THE country abounds in every thing necelTary for the fuftc-
nance of its inhabitants. They have multitudes of hogs, which breed
rapidly, and fome of a very large fort : dogs ai^e highly reliflied ; and
rats are numerous and troublefome : common fowls are in great
abundance. Thefe, with the birds, conftitute the chief of their animal
food.
We had made an effort to increafe their ftock, but with little fuccefs.
The mare only is yet alive at Ulietea, but the horfe is dead. In their
wars the cattle were carried to Eimeo; the bull is deftroyed, and the
cows grown wild. The breed of flieep periflied. They made attempts
to drefs the beef and mutton ; but having no mode but burning them
as the hogs, and baking them in their ovens, the hide was tough as
leather, and the tafle highly offenfive : this made them negleded and
defpifed. The goats have had better fpeed, but are difliked for their
fmell and the mifchief they do the cloth plantations, and are fo infe-
rior to their hogs and dogs, as never to be eaten by the natives ; they
are chiefly driven to the mountains. The cats multiply, and are ufeful.
We have lately endeavoured to repair the breed of flieep, and though
the beft ram died, there is a profped: of their increafe under our
care, unlefs deflroyed by the natives or their dogs. A neft of rabbits
has been produced, and they can hardly fail of fpreading. We have
ducks alfo, but they have not yet well fucceeded. A bull fent to
Eimeo would continue the breed, though the natives dare not ap-
proach the cows, which are grown wild on the mountains. The
fame fate attended the vegetables, which the former voyagers carried
tluther, as the animals. Not having patience to let them ripen, and
ArPENmx] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 373
taftino- them when green, they defpifcd the grapes, and trod them under
foot ; and the pines had hardly a better iffue : but the latter are now
cultivated, and, under our care, will foon be a valuable acceffion to
their ftock of fruits. The Indian corn would ripen every three
months, If they thought it worth their pains. Our brethren w.H
probably greatly increafe the number of culinary articles, though the
natives have already abundance, and care not for any additions.
FiHi they take of many forts and in great plenty : and they have
fuch a profufion of roots, fruits, and vegetables, as can fcarcely be enu-
merated : the greater part growing fpontaneoufly, and needing neither
labour nor culture. The prmcipal of thefe is the ooROO, orbread-frmt.
This beautiful, ufeful, and highly efteemed vegetable feems pecuhar
to the Pacific Ocean, and is in its higheft perfeftion at Otaheite.
The tree is of the fize of a middling oak, which in its branching it
greatly refembles j the leaves, however, are more like thofe of the
fio- tree both in colour and fubftance : they are a foot and a half m
length ' of an oblong form, the edges deeply indented, and the ribs
yielding, when broken, a white milky juice: from the bark or
Lk, a ftrong black gum exudes, which ferves them mftead of
pitch for the canoes, and as birdlime to catch the fmaller birds;
and which, by tapping, might be produced in great quantities. The
tree is of quick growth, fhoots again when cut down, and bears fruit
in about four years. This moil plentiful and nutritious food grows
as large as a man's two fifts. Its furface is rough like net-work ; the
Ikin is thin ; the core but fmall , the intermediate part, which is eaten,
white, and very like the confidence of the crumb of a new-baked roll.
It is divided like an apple, and the core taken out, and then roaficd in
their oven, when its tafte is very fimilar to the crumb of the fineft
wheaten bread, with a flight fweetnefs, as from a mixture ot the
lerufalem artichoke. Befides furnifl.ing the moft nutritive food, and
n the greateft abundance, this tree claims pre-eminence, as aflford.ng
from its bark the moft durable clothing ; the wood being excellent
for budding, and for their canoes, having the fmgular property of
374 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
not being affcdtcd by the worms ; and the leaves are employed as
wrappers for drcfTing their provifions. When the fruit is ripe they
gather it in quantities, and form it into a four pafte called mahic, which
will keep till the fruit is again in feafon. When gathered for this
life, they fcrape off the outward rind, and lay it in heaps to mellow ;
a deep pit is then dug in the ground, and carefully lined with large
leaves; this cavity is filled with the fruit, and ftrongly thatched down
with a ridge like a mufliroom bed ; the whole is preffed clofe with
Clones laid over it : there it ferments and lettles : when the fermenta-
tion is over, they open the pit, and put up the fermented fruit in frefli
leaves, taking out the core, and floring it for ufe, " as we cover up po-
tatoes for winter. Some, previous to this procefs, cut out the core,
•which makes the colour whiter, but prevents it from keeping fo
long.
At this feafon alfo of the ripe bread-fruit, they make a large oven
called oppeeo- The chief, on this occafion, fummons all his tenants
and dependants to bring each a certain quantity of the ripe fruit,
whi ch on a day appointed, is lodged at his houfe, to the amount
of fifteen or twenty hundred weight. They next repair to the hills
for wood, and having collected each man his burden, they dig a
hole eight or nine feet deep, paving it, and building it up with large
pebbles ; this they fill with wood, and fetting it on fire, when burnt
out, and the flones thoroughly heated, they fpread the embers on the
bottom of the pit with long poles ; thefe they cover with green leaves
and the bruifed flalk of the plantain : the pit is filled with the
bread-fruit, and covered with flalks and leaves at bottom as on the
fides, and hot embers fpread over them ; the oven is then thatched
down thickly with grafs and leaves, and the earth that was dug out
caft over the whole. After two or three days it- is fit for ufe, when
they make an opening, taking out as much as they need, and flopping
it again clofe. This parte makes a mofl nutritious fweet pudding,
and all the children of the family and their relations feaft on it eagerly.
During this feftive feafon they feldom quit the houfe, and continue
AiTENDix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 375
wrapped up in cloth : and it is fiirprifing to fee them in a month
become fo fair and fat, that they can fcarcely breathe : the children
afterwards grow amazingly. The baked bread-fruit in this ftatc
very much in tafte refembles gingerbread.
This is repeated each returning feafon ; nor is it confined to the
chiefs, as all may procure it who will be at the pains to provide the
oven ; for he who has no bread-fruit of his own, or dependants to
fupply it, goes round to his neighbours with garlands, like our May-
day ones, of a fhrub called pcrepcere ; thefc arc hollow, and capable of
containing fufficient bread-fruit for his family : all of his own rank con-
tribute to fill them ; and if he has hands fufficient to fcrapc them and
fill the pit, each brings his portion ; if not, he leaves word when he
means to call on them, and they prepare accordingly. If a chief
wants bread-fruit, he fends his garlands round, and they are furc to
come home full ; if he fends cocoa-nut leaves, they form them into
bafkets for the fame purpofe. But, without fending, he is fure to
be fupplicd with bread-fruit, hogs, and fifh, whenever wanted. The
hofrs are baked in the fame kind of oven.
OowHE, or yams. Thefe grow wild in the mountains, from one
to fix feet long, arid of different thicknefs. They are very good
eating; but being procured at a diftance and with more trouble, in
the bread-fruit feafon they are little fought after. Thefe alfo arc
baked.
Tarro. The root is from twelve to fixtecn inches long, and nearly
as much in girth. It is cultivated in watered grounds, and the leaves
make as good greens as fpinach. They muft be thoroughly dreffed,
or they occafion an unplcafant itching in the fundament.
OoMARRA. Sweet potatoc, Thefc are in great abundance, but
very different- from thofe in the Weft Indies and America, being in
fhape like the Englifh potatoe, of an orange colour, refembling the
tomato, and, like them, growing on the ftalk. They fcem in taftc
neareft the Jerufalem artichoke.
376 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
Yappe. a mountain root, larger than the tarro. It requires to
be well dreflcd, as the raw juice is acrid, and fets the tongue and lips
in a great heat, but when properly prepared is very good food.
Pee A. A root like potatoes-, and of the nature of cafllida. If
dreffed without proper treatment it is bitter, acrid, and unpleafant ;
to remedy this, they grate it on coral into a tray, and pour water upon
it, which they decant next day, and repeat the ablutions for five or
fix days, fiiirring it up ; by this means all the deleterious quality
is wafiied away : they then dry it in the fun, and put it up for ufc.
It refemblcs fi;arch ; makes, as flour, excellent pudding ; and, mixed
with water, forms a pafte for joining and thickening their cloth.
Ma POOR A is a fpecies of tarro, growing wild in the mountains,
and fmaller than what is cultivated. The juice is acrid and hot; but,
properly dreflcd as before, is ufed for food or pafte, as the peea.
DivvE, a common root, growing every where, large as a potatoe,
but moft like the turnip-radifli. It is of a fiery pungent tafte, but
lofes it by being kept all night in one of their ovens, by which alfo
the mapoora becomes edible.
Tee. a root of no great fize, growing in the mountains, fweetifli,
and producing; a juice like molaflfes : when in want of other provi-
fions, they dig it up and bake it. The leaves are ufed to line the pits
for the mahie J and to thatch the temporary huts, in their excurfions
to the higher regions. They make ufe of thefe alfo to fpare better
clothes : with one of thefe leaves round their waifts as a maro, and
the plantain over their flioulders, they drefs for fifliing, or any dirty
work.
Ehuoye. a kind of fern. It only grows in the mountains i
the root when dreflTed is good food. — There is a variety of other roots
growing fpontaneoufly, but feldom ufed, except in a fcarcity of
bread-fruit, or during any ftay in the mountains : then they dig up
and drefs the roots around ihem, to avoid the trouble of carrying
provifions. As they are expert at killing birds, with which the hills
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 377
abound, and at catching fiili, which the lakes and rivulets fuinifli in
plenty, they fcldom know want ; though Ibmetimcs they are detained
a confiderable time in ftarch of the Ikndal wood, dyes for their cloth,
and fwect herbs and flowers for perfuming the cocoa-nut oil.
E'vEE, improperly called the yellow apple, is as large as a nonpareil,
and of a bright golden hue ; but oblong, and different in imcll and
tafte from our apples, more rcfembling a peach in flavour, as well as
in being a fl:one fruit. It has been compared to a pine-apple or a
mango. It grows on a large beautifully fpreading tree, three or four
in a bunch ; is propagated by feeds or fuckers, foon produces fruit,
and is in feafon a great part of the year. The bark furniflies alfo a
tranfparcnt gum, like that on the plum-tree, called tapou, which
they ufe as pitch for their canoes.
E'heyah is a fruit of a red hue, like the European apple in taflc
and fubftance, but more watery. It has a great iingularity, of fila-
ments hangi^ig from it, which come from the core. This tree is
about the fize of a cherry-tree. Thefe two, with another bearing
red flowers of an unpleafant fmell, are the only ones which annually
filed their leaves ; from the ev«e they begin to fall in September,
and by Chriftmas the young leaves and fruit make their appearance j
and the apples at Matavai begin to ripen in June, The heyah is ripe
in November, and the leaves fall in January. The other trees remain
in perpetual verdure, never lofing their leaves altogether, but the
young ones fucceed the old as they fall. From thefe cider has been
made by the mutineers.
Next to the bread-fruit in ufefuinefs, and almofl: equal to it, is
the HEAREE, or cocoa-nut, which affords both meat, drink, cloth,
and oil. The hu(ks are fpun into rope and lafliings for the canoes,
and ufed for calking. Of the leaves they make baflcets, bonnets,
and temporary houfes ; and of the trunk, fuel.
The RATA A, or chefnut, is different both in fize and fliape from
thofc of Europe. The fruit is flattened more as a bean, about two
3 c
378 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
inches and a half acrols, but much refenibling a chefnut in tafte, and
is roafted like them.
Shaddocks, tranfplanted from the Friendly Iflands by Britifla navi-
gators, and called by the natives ooRoo p app a a, foreign bread-fruit,
are in no eftimation. The European vifitors likewife have added
pine-apples, lemons, limes, Indian corn, tobacco, ginger, &c. which
however feem little valued by the iflanders.
Of plantains they have fifteen different forts : the maiden, or ay a ;
■the horfe plantain, paparoa; the mountain, fa ye, &c. The
generic name is mayya. The faye grows only on the mountains,
and differs much from all the other fpecies, the ftalk being of a raven
or deep purple colour, the leaves larger, and of a deeper green. The
fruit grows all round the top of the flock, which rifes upright like
a fugar-loafed cabbage, and clofely wedged in by the fide of each
other ; when ripe, the fruit is a reddifh brown, and within a'greenifh
yellow, and has fomething of the fmell of painty if cut when young, it
rcfembles and fmells like cucumber. Of thefe they make a pudding
which taftes like goofeberry- fool, called popoe faye. The root is as
good as yam. Of plantains alfo they make a pudding, called tooparro,
mixed with tarro and cocoa-nut, very like a cufiard. The cocoa-nut
is grated on coral, and mixed with its own milk; this is wrung dry
in a ftringy kind of grafs,. that exprefTes the white juice, and leaves
the fubflance of the nut behind : into this juice they grate the tarro,
and mix the ripe plantain, tying the whole up in plantain-leaves made'
tough by holding them over the fire. Thefe pudding-bags remain all
night in the oven, and, when taken out, the preparation may be eaten
hot or cdld, and will keep for many weeks.
Saypay is another kind of nice pudding made of bread-fruit
and cocoa-nut milk in the fame manner ; and often drelTed in fmall
quantities, by putting into it heated flones.
PoE TARRO is made of the fame materials, with the addition of
the tender leaves of tarro broken into it.
AppExVdix.] to the SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 379
PoE PEE A is made with the gratings of the pcea into the cxprcircd
cocoa-nut juice j and, when well made, rcfembles a iuct dumpling ;
though, if the pcea be eaten in any quantity, it fomctimes caufcs a gid-
dinefs in the head.
PopoE is a compound of baked bread-fruit and mahie, beat up
together in a tray with a ftone inflrument, and eaten at every meal,
mixed with water or cocoa-nut milk j and fomctimes is made of bread-
fruit or mahie feparately, according to the feveral taflcs of the perfons.
In this Hate it much refembles flummery. With this our new-born
infant is daily fupplied by old Madam Pyetea, and thrives greatly.
A multitude of inferior roots and fruits are edible, and might be
improved by cultivation, but the immenfity of fpontaneous produce
renders it unneceffary.
The cocoa-nut oil is made by grating the full-grown cocoa-nut
kernel into a large trough ; after a few days digeftion the oil begins
to feparate, which they gently pour off, and mix with it fragrant
herbs, flowers, the farina of the bloflbms of the fwharra, or prickly
palm, and fandal wood, leaving the whole to macerate three weeks or
a month, well ftirring the ingredients every day. When it has
acquired a ftrong perfume, the oil is wrung out, and put up into
bamboos for ufe, and called manoe. There is a quicker method of
extracting the oil, by expofing the nuts broken to the fun ; but the
oil thus drawn is always rancid.
In preparing a hog for the table, they always either drown or
flrangle it : the latter is ufually preferred. If the hog is large, they
make two or three rounds of ftrong cord about his neck, and with
a fl:ick twifl: it till the breath is fl:opped, fluffing the noftrils and
fundament with grafs, when the animal qtiickly dies. They wet it
all over, and furrounding it with dry leaves or grafs, fuigc oft" the
hair, fcraping it with fticks and cocoa-nut fliclls, and a rough ftone,
till the flcin is perfedly clean. With a fplit bamboo, or knife, they
open the belly, and take out the entrails and coagulated blood, which
they divide into cocoa-nut fliells mixed with fomc tat of the caul :
.3c
3 So FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
to this they put hot floncs, and make a kind of black pudding, by
way of whet, whilfl: the hog is baking. The hog being waflied
M'ithin, tlic maw cleaned, and the reft of the guts, the whole
is placed in the pit, or oven, refting on its belly, and with
It bread-fruit, yams, taro, &c, covered thick with plantain-leaves,
hot embers, and grafs, with the earth which was dug out heaped
upon it till ready ; which, in a hog of moderate fize, requires at
leaft two hours ; if the pig is fmall, lefs than half the time will ferve.
The leaves arc placed fo carefully, that not a particle of earth reaches
the provifions, cither in going in or coming out. In the fame
manner they drefs all their other food ,- and they like it well dreffed,
except their fifh, which they prefer rav/. Their cookery is fimply
baking or broiling, as they have no veffel of their own capable of
bearing the fire. However, they lofe nothing of the delicacy of their
food in baking ,- and fifia fo dreff^d is preferable to being boiled.
They make three meals a day ivhen at home, and eat heartil)- ;
and nothing pleafes them more than to obferve a ftranger eat with
appetite. When at a diftance from their ufual abode, and great mul-
titudes are affembled in one diftridt, provifions cannot be furnifhed for
all in proper feafon, and they content themfelves with one meal
a day ; and when thus completely hungry they may well pafs for
voracious with thofe who have their regidar meals, and are fatiated
with the plenty around them; befldes, every one endeavours to pro-
cure abundance for the ftrano-er, even thoujrh he fhould oo himfclf
with a hungry belly. The greatefl: part of their diet is vegetable,
and it does not often fall to the lot of inferiors to have a regular
fupply of animal food. Whatever the fea produces they eat, affirming
that nothing unclean can come from water.
In eating they fit crofs-legged on the ground, or on leaves : they
firft make their offering to the Eatooa (for this even heathens feel
their bounden duty), then wafli their hands, and begin fluffing their
mouths full of bread-fruit, and dip their fifh or fleila in a cocoa-nut
fliell of fait water, which is their falt-cellar. They are ever ready to •
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 381
divide their provifion wifh thofe who have none. Any place Arrvcs
for a dining-room; they often fquat down on the grafs, or under a
fliady tree, and always eat feparately, for fear of incommoding each
other with their fly-flaps. Green leaves from the ncarcft tree afford
them a table-cloth, and before them is a cocoa-nut Ihell of frcfli as
well as fait water.
Befides their hogs and poultry, their dogs are efl-eemed excellcQt
food, and much preferred to goat's flefh, being fed wholly on vegeta-
bles ; the goats, though numerous, we never faw them touch. Tiicir
fowls do not differ from our own ; and in tcndernefs and flavour
are nothing inferior.
They feldom plant bread-fruit trees,, as they fpring again from
the roots wherever cut down ; but they make large plantations of
cocoa-nuts and plantain : a beautiful grove near One Tree hill A\as
fet by the hands of Pomarre and Iddeah. Thefe plantations are ufually
the work of the chiefs, whogenerally excel the lower claffes, whether
in fports or ingenuity. The noble women are the principal cloth-
makers; nor is it the leaft difparagement for a chief to be found in
the midfl of his workmen labouring with his own hands ; but it
would be reputed a great difgrace not to fliow fuperior fkill. Like
the ancient patriarchs, they aflift in preparing and cooking food for.
their vifitors..
SECTION IX,
Birds.
THE number of the feathered tribe is very great. Befide the com-
mon tame fowl they have wild ducks, parroquets of various kinds,
the. blue and white heron, fly-flapper, woodpecker, doves, boobies.
o
R2 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
noddies, gulls, pctercls, fand-larks, plover, martin, men-of-war and
tropic birds, with a multitude of others unknown to us. The
mountains produce a great variety of a larger and fmaller fize,
for beauty and for fong j thefe are never feen on the low lands, nor
near the fea.
The tropic-birds build their nefts in holes of .the cliffs; and as
their long feathers are held in requcft for their ^^r/Vx and mourning
dreffcs, they procure them in the following dangerous manner. From
the top of the high cliffs, beaten by the waves beneath, a man is
lowered down by a rope, feated acrofs a flick: he fearches all the
holes from bottom to top, fwinging from point to point by a ftaff
he holds in his hand, and by the ftones which projed:, or the fhrubs
which grow there. When he finds a bird on her nefl:, he plucks
out her tail feathers, and lets her fly. When he can find no more
birds, or is tired of the labour, he gives the flgnal to be drawn up.
Dreadful as it may appear to be thus hanging thirty or forty fathom
down, and four times as many to the bottom, few accidents ever
happen ; though the fport is often continued for many hours
together.
They fet a peculiar value on the fhining black feathers of the men-
of-war birds, which being birds of paffage, they watch their ar-
rival at the rainy feafon j a float of light wood is then launched into
the water, baited with a fmall fifli, as foon as they obferve the bird
approaching, whilft they fland ready with a long pole of fixteen or
eighteen feet within reach of the float. The moment the bird pounces
on the fifh to feize it, they flrike at him with the pole, and feldom
fail of bringing him down ; if they mifs their aim, the bird cannot
be again tempted to approach. The cock bird is moft valuable, and
a large hog will be fometimes exchanged for one.
The fmaller birds are caught with the bread-fruit gum made into
birdlime, and fpread on fticks of bamboo. Thofe who frequent
the mountains will often kill them with a ftone thrown by hand.
Ufe in .this fport has made them fine markfmen ; they point at the
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 383
bird with the fore-finger of the left hand, as if taking aim, and
feldom fail of bringing him down, if at no great dillancc ; but on
the wing they as feldom fucceed.
SECTION X.
Fifiery.
THEIR fifhing-tackle confifls of feines of all fizes, from five
fathoms to fifty, and from one to twelve fathoms deep. They have
lines and hooks of all forts. Thefe feines and lines are formed from
the bark of a Ihrub called roeva, which feldom grows larger than
hemp, and looks like it when drelTed. There are feveral other forts
of an inferior quality. They twill the filaments on their thigh
with their hands, and wind up the thread into balls, fome of two,
fome of three threads ; but they feldom make their lines of more
than two threads, even for dolphins ; the three threads being more
liable to kink and get foul, when of any confiderable length ; and
as they always play the dolphin, are more apt to fnap. Their hooks
arc made of pearl-fhells, though they prefer iron, and form a nail
into an excellent hook. Our hooks were highly efteemed by them.
They have different fizes and different fhapes for the different kinds
of filh. Some are made to reprefent the flying-fifli, others for putting
on real fifh, or what other bait the fiili will take.
For the dolphin they fifh in failing canoes, at four or five miles
diftance from land. They never put out a line till they difcover a
fifli, when they make fure of it, as they bait with flying-fifh pre-
pared for that purpofe. When the dolphin is hooked they play him
till fpent, when they bring him alongfide by degrees, and lay hold
3^4 FITvST ]M1SST0XARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
on the tail, by which they hft him in, never depending on the hook
and Hnc Wlicn they have got to the filhing ground they ply to
windward. About fifty or fixty caiioes from Matavai are employed
in this fiflrcry during the feafon, which lafts about fix months, as
thcfe fifh follow the fun. While the fun is to the north they are
fcarce; when he paiTes the line, in great plenty. They fpawn about
March, and then the fiHicry ceafes, and the canoes are other wife em-
ploA'cd, either in trading to the iflands, or in fitting for the albicorc
and bonetta fifirery, which next commences.
While the dolphin filliery lafis, nimibers of large flying-fifli are
caught by the foflowing means : a number of fmall white flicks, fix
or eight feet long, are prepared, and weighted with a flone to keep
them eredt in the w^ater : to each of thefe they fix a fliort Hne and
a hook of bone baited with cocoa-nut kernel. Thefe they cafl out
into the fea as they are ftanding ofF at a diftance from each other,
and taking them up at their return, generally find a fifli at every
hook ; fo that if they have no fuccefs at the dolphin filhery, they
do not return empty-handed; and fometimes bring in fharks and
other fifli.
To fifh for AAHYE, or albicore, and the parroa, or bonetta,
they have a double canoe; on this a crane is fixed, at the head of
which they have two lines made fafl: to a fpreading fork, forming
two horns, and at the back a rope. The heel is fixed in a roller
on the fore part of the canoe, and all but one man are kept abaft to
attend the back rope. The man who flands forwards baits the
hook, and when they fee a fifh they lower down the crane till the
bait touches the water. The man forwards keeps heaving out water
with a fcoop, and now and then cafls out a fmall fifh. The moment
an albicore is hooked he gives the figiial, and thofe abaft raife up the
crane, and the fifh fwings in to the man, who is ready to feize him.
Sometimes the fifli is fo large, and the canoe fo light, that, without
much care, the albicore carries it under water ; yet feldom any other
danwge enfues than the Jofs of the hook and fifla.
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 385
The PEER A R A, or fkipjack, .is caught with a long bamboo and
line; but from its fize is more eafily lifted in. Moft of the other
fifh are taken with feines, which fometimes enclofe turtle, or by
hook and line in fmall canoes ; and if they hook a large filh, they
■ftcer the canoe after him till he is fpent, and then lift him in. In
this manner they take the cord a a, or cavally, the e aw a, or white
falmon, and fcveral of the larger fort. The canoe being light bears
little ftrain, and the fifli is foon exhaufled. The marar a, or flying-
fifh, are caught in feines of about twelve or fifteen fathoms long,
and one and a half deep. With thefe they go out in fmall canoes,
and (hoot them round the fifh ; fplafhing the water and rapping the
fides of the feine with their paddles till the fifh dart into the net, and
mefli themfelvcs. If the weather is calm, and a number of canoes
fall in with a fhoal of fifh, they join their nets, and furround them ;
then all leap into the water and dive, rifing with a fifh in each hand,
befides thofe that are mefhed in the nets. They then haul than
in, take out the fifh, and follow the fhoal, proceeding in the fame
manner. Thofe who fifh for the dolphin-bait continue out great part
of the night, and the darker the better. When thus employed they
fometimes meet the fvvord-fifli, who flirikcs through the canoe, and
repeats the ftroke in two or three places before the fword fticks faft
enough to hold him. They leap overboard immediately with a rope
and running noofe, and fecure him ; but mufl inf\antly haflen on
fhore, to prevent the canoe from finking. They catch alfo fharks,
though not very large, with the fame noofed rope. The fmaller
fifli take refuge under the canoe, and as the fhark approaches they
are ready to fecure him. Quantities of fine rock-fifli are caught in
pots. They are alfo expert at diving after them, and the tot arr a,
or hedgehog-fifli, which they feldom catch in any other way. This
fifh, when purfued, takes refuge under the coral rock ; thither the
diver purfues him, and brings him up with a finger in each eye.
They fometimes continue under water an aftonilhing while, chafing
3 o
386 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
the filh from hole to hole, and rife with one in each hand. The
weather muft be calm for good fport, as the leaft ripple on the water
darkens the bottom. In dark nights they employ torches to draw
the fifh around the canoes, and have lading-nets ready to fcoop them
up. When the fifli come into fhoal water to fpawn, they ftrip cocoa-
nut leaves from the ftem, and knotting them on a line, fweep with
them the reefs and Ihoal places, till they force them near the beach;
when, with lade-nets or fmall feines, they take great quantities.
Belides thefe methods of fifliing, they ufe two or three-pronged
forks of toa wood, darting them at a diftance from the beach, and
when they ftrike a fifli fwim after it ; others, with many prongs,
are hurled amidft a fhoal from their canoes, and fometimes ftrike two
or three fifh at once.
Whales are feldora killed, except now and then young ones which
get entangled in the reefs, or are thrown over them by the heavy
lurf. When they difcover one in this fituation, they furround him
with their canoes, and thruft into him their war fpears ; but often
have tloeir canoes dafhed in pieces before they can difpatch him.
Their fifh are numberlefs, of all fizes, forts, and colours, com-
mon to tropical regions ; and many which are peculiar to thofe feas,
and for which no Englifh. names are known. Their fifliing-tackle
difplays the greateft ingenuity, and can only be exceeded by their
art in ufing it ; in this no nation can vie with them. The fiflier-
man builds his own canoe, makes his lines and hooks, and bait,
and all the- neceffary apparatus. The hooks are ground with coral,
from pearl-fhells, bones, the tulks of boars, and fometimes of hard
wxx)d ; and of different fhapes and fizes, according to the nature of
the fifhery. Some are formed like our artificial flies, and ferve for
bait and hook together, and though not bearded feldom lofe the fifh.
once hooked ; and notwithflanding the form to us appears moft clumfy
and rude, they will fucceed, when we, with our befl hooks, cannot.
The women who are not of the blood royal, or married to fuch, are
Appendix ] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 387
forbidden to eat turtle, whale, porpoifc, fliark, albicorc, and dolphin.
The turtle not being caught in any great plenty, and regarded as a
facrcd fifh, is ufually fent to the chief, and eaten at the morai.
The fhcll-fifli are abundant ; pearl and fmall common oyftcrs,
crabs, cray-fifli, cockles, fomc of an enormous fize, conchs, mufcles,
tigers, wrinkles of various kinds, wilks, clams, prawns, flirimps,
fea-eggs, and fhells of peculiar beauty ; there are alfo land crabs,
but fcldom eaten.
During the rains they catch great quantities of fmall fry at the
mouth of the rivers : they form a large net, or rather a vaft: bag, of
the cocoa-nut huflc fewed together, with a wide mouth to receive the
ftream, which is held open and fecured by ftones to the bottom. With
cocoa-nut leaves ftripped and tied together, called row, they fweep
all before them into the bag-net, and catch bufhels at a draught.
Sometimes the women take each a bag-net and bafket, forming a line
acrofs the river, and hold it to the bottom by their feet, and the mouth
open with their hands ; and when they have filled their bafket, go
home and drefs them. They feldom return empty-handed, and the
queen herfelf and her mother are as often engaged in this work as
any others.
They have alfo the fame methods pradifed with us, of running a
dam acrofs the river where it is fhoal, and leaving only fluices open,
where the bag-nets are fixed : they go above, and plunge and beat the
water, to drive the fifh into the net ; though to this they have feldom
recourfe till the waters are low, and the fifh become fcarce.
When they angle they ftand in the fea up to the fhoulders, ufing
a long bamboo fifhing-rod, and catch numbers of fine fifh, parti-
cularly the mavoy, or fea-chub, with others of a delicious kind, as
the white mullet ; the red are ufually caught in feines, and ufed as
bait for the albicorc and bonetta.
There is a fifli of the conger eel kind which is poifonous, and
affects them as fometimes mufcles do us in England, but in a greater
degree, producing vafl fwellings in the body, hands, and feet, "and
3 D 2-
388 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
even depriving the limbs of fenfe and motion : they have, however,
found out a medicine which in a few days expels the poifon. An
Englifhman ate of this fifh without inconvenience, whilfl a native
who devoured what was left was almoft raving mad, his limbs
fwollen, inflamed as in the fcarlet fever, with excruciating pain, and
his eyes rolling as if they would ftart from their fockets : yet, after
ten or twelve days, he recovered, by a preparation of herbs miniflered
by a prieft with many prayers. This kind of fifh is about twenty
inches long, the fins edged with green, the Ikin of a brownifli hue,
and called by the natives piihhe, plrre, rowte. It is caught about the
reefs, and fome are not poifonous, though they know not certainly
how to diftinguifh the good from the bad. There is alfo a fmall red
crab, no bigger than a horfe-bean, fo very deleterious, that it always
kills the perfon who eats it. The hootdo, like our coculus indicus,
is fometimes ufed by them to intoxicate and poifon the fifhj but
this never injures the perfon who feeds upon them.
SECTION XI.
Trees and Shrubs.
THEIR trees exhibit the greateft beauty and variety; two arc
particularly remarkable for their flowers and fragrance. The t e a y r e
has milk-white flowers, of a delicate fmell, fomething like jafmine:
with thefe they adorn their hair, being very fond of perfumes. The
tree is large, and covered with flowers j it grows in the low lands,
and is cultivated with great care. The other is a native of the
mountains, and called booa ; it bears a light yellow flower of An-
gular beauty and fcent, with which the women form bandeaus for
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 389
their hair. They have many other flowers of lefs fragrance. The
tobacco planted by Captain Cook is fpread over the ifland, the na-
tives being particularly fond of the red blofTom it bears. All forts
of fweet-fmelling flowers would be highly prized by them. They
have a variety of fvveet herbs, which they employ in perfuming their
cloth and their oil; one fort, a kind of mint, they call mabooa.
The tomanoo nuts afix^rd alfo a perfume when pounded ; they
mix them with water, and fl:eep their cloth in it, and for many days
it retains a powerful fcent, but by degrees it is loft.
YouTE, the morus papyrifera, the cloth-plant, or Chinefe paper
mulberry : there are two kinds in ufe, the one called myerre, the
other pooRow. This they carefully cultivate, fencing the planta-
tions with a ditch, to prevent the hogs and goats from having accefs
to them, efpecially the latter, which do much mifchief by barking
them, and are therefore tied up, or driven into the mountains.
The plants of this tree flioot up like ofiers, and when about ten or
twelve feet in height, and three inches in circumference, they are
cut down and carefully flripped of their bark : of this their finefl
white cloth is made. The rind being taken off", is carried to the
water, the outer cuticle fcraped off carefully, and well waflied, till
the fap and flime are feparated from it ; they wrap this in plantain-
leaves, and leave it for three days to digeft, by which time it becomes
clammy and fit for working into cloth. The bark is next fpread
of a regular thicknefs on the beam where it is to be beaten, about
eight inches wide, and they begin with the grooved beetle to fpread
it out to a proper breadth and equal thicknefs in every part. A
number of plantain-leaves are laid on the ground, and on thefe the
cloth is fpread to bleach in the early morning dew for feveral days,
removing it as the fun grows high: when perfedlly bleached, it is
dried, and rolled up in bundles for ufe. This cloth is called liooboo
and parrawye : if they wifli it to be clouded, they break the outer
bark with a ftone, and wrap the flicks in leaves for three or four
days before they bark them.
590 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
They mix alfo the inner bark of the tender branches of the bread-
fruit tree with the cloth-plant, and prepare it in the fame manner.
If a chief, or man of property, has cloth to be made, he fends the
mulberry-plants in bundles to his tenants, and they mix them with
the bread-fruit branches, and bring home the cloth when prepared.
If he needs a piece of very large dimenfions, he tells them when he
fhall fet about it : on this day the women of the diftridl affemble with
their beetles, each bringing a quantity of materials ; and the ground
being covered with plantain-leaves, they place their work in a line,
and fet to it all together, beating time to a fong given out by one
of their principal helpers ; and when they ftrike up, make a vaft
noife, two hundred fometimes being employed on one piece of cloth
four fathoms wide, and forty fathoms long.
Their cloth is made of a variety of colours, black, white, and
feveral fhades of crimfon, yellow, gray, and brown. The black is
dyed with the fap of the mountain-plantain, or under the roots of
fuch cocoa-nut trees as grow in wet and fwampy grounds, where they
lay the cloth to foak for a day or two, then dry it, repeating the
procefs till it becomes a deep black, when it is waflied in fait water
to fix the colour. This is called odwery. The brown is dyed or
tanned with the bark of feveral trees, efpecially the toa, which gives
a fine bright colour, heightened by the fun. The bark is fcraped
with a fliell, and after lying to infufe in water, and wrung out, the
cloth is dipped in the infufion, and fpread in the fun to dry, repeating
the operation till it becomes a fine bright brown, called heere and
powhecre. The yellow is extracted from turmeric or reya, which
grows here in ^reat abundance, the country being over-run with it,
and capable of furnifhing any quantity, as well as of poohey, ava, or
ginger. The gray is the natural colour of the cloth when unbleached ;
afcer being half worn it may be dyed brown, and lined with white,
by parting two cloths together; this is called h5paa. The red is
produced from the mattde berry.
WJien the brown cloth is worn out they bark the branches of the
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 391
bread-fruit, and mix the old brown cloth with the new bark, beating
them together, which makes a mottled piece : this they dip in a light
yellow prepared from the root of a flirub called nono, which gives it
a beautiful appearance; they line it alfo with white, and infufing
perfumes in the yellow dye, call the cloth opotta potta : they have
yet another kind of cloth called marra, made of the mulberry bark,
half beaten: this confifts of feveral layers of irregular thicknefs, for
upper garments. At this the arreoies are peculiarly expert, though it is
reckoned women's work, and requires fkill and nicety in the joining,
to prevent the part palled on from ftifFening the cloth : this they paint
with a beautiful crimfon called mattde, extradied from a berry
growing on a tree of the fame name. The exprefled juice of the
berry they mix with the leaves of another tree called tow, and
imprint fprigs and leaves on the cloth by wetting them with this
juice, and impreffing them on the cloth according to their fancy ._
The berries of the mattde are brown when ripe, of the (ize of a floe;
and being gathered, they nip them between the thumb and finger,
expreiling a yellow drop or two, which they fprinklc on the leaf of
the tow, by hitting one hand againfl the other: two or three drops
fuffice for a leaf. When the berries are all nipped, and the leaves
wetted, they are worked with the hands in a wooden tray, fprinkling
water on them till a beautiful crimfon colour begins to appear, when
they exprefs the dye from the leaves, and throw them away. They
lay on the colour with a fmall brufli of flringy fibres, made of
a rufh called mooo, like a camel's hair pencil.
There are other trees from which cloth is made, but the procefs is the
fame in all. Sometimes they pafte together pieces of different colours,
cut into curious fliapes, in which difplay of tafte the arreoies excel.
The women, with their feminine male affociates, make the cloth ;
the men provide the materials. The beam on which the bark is
fpread is about twelve feet long, made of a hard wood called marra,
fquared to fix or eight inches, and finely fmoothed on the upper fide.
The beetles arc formed of toa, about fourteen inches long, and two
J92 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
and a half fquare. The fides are grooved of four different fizes, as
the cloth is to be made of a finer or coarfer thread ; the handle is
round ; the beetle is called ayey ; the beam, tdootdooa.
Tdootdooa, a large tree like the chefnut, bears a nut flatter,
and very oily. It will not burn well till a little fcorched in the oven,
when it is ftrung on the rib of the cocoa-nut leaf, and affords a
tolerable light. The bark of the root of this tree alfo affords a light
brown dye, and the flock is good fuel.
The fruit-trees have been mentioned under the article of provifions ;
it remains only to defcribe the principal trees on the mountains.
To A is a large tree, the wood fo exceedingly hard as to be wrought
with the greateft difficulty, even with the hardeft iron tool. The beft
axe is prefen-tly fpoiled, as if cutting againll: ftone ; yet of this they form
their war clubs, fpears, cloth-beaters, and, what is marvellous, with
their own miferable tools of ftone and bone. Their clubs are from
four to fix feet long ; and their fpears from fourteen to eighteen feet.
The bark affords a brown dye.
ToMANOo, a vafl: fpreading tree: out of this they form their
canoes, pillows to fleep, and ftools to fit upon, pudding difhes, and
trays, all wrought with infinite labour out of the folid wood. The
grain refembles walnut, and will take a high polifh. It bears a feed,
or rather nut, which is ufed with other ingredients to perfume their
cloth; and is applied externally for wounds, and internally, for the
ill effects arifing from eating fome kinds of fifli.
Mark A, a large tree: the wood hardj and when young, white;
when old, brown. It is of a fine grain like box, and ufed for
building canoes j it alfo makes paddles for war canoes, cloth beams,
axe and adze helves and handles, &c.
FwH '1 WHY grows to the fize of an oak, its grain refembling the
white oak, and is ufed for canoes, cherts, and planks for various
ufes.
Am A I, a clofe-grained wood, refembling mahogany, has a fweet
fmell: it bears a pod not unlike the fcarlet bean. The tree is
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 393
large, and ufed for canoes, and alfo for all tool handles. When
planted in the morais, it is there called roava, and its leaves
are employed in their religious ceremonies. The fubftitutc and am-
baffador of a chief always carries the branch of this tree in his hand,
to give weight to the meffage he delivers, this being regarded as an
emblem of truth ; and he that bears it is heard and received as if the
chief himfelf were prefent.
TuoY. A large tree, the wood hard, and ufed for common and
war canoes, for fmooth planks on which to fcrape the cloth-plant,
and many other ufes.
PooROW refembles our elm, and is employed in building canoes,
rafters for houfes, and paddles; the infide bark makes wafliing-
mats, ropes, and lines : fome of thefe mats are very fine, and worn
in wet weather.
Eyto. a very large tree, the wood a reddifli brown, like maho^
gany, nearly as hard as toa, and ufed in many parts of the canoes.
The bark affords a brown dye for cloth, nets, and lines ; and, though
only fleeped in cold water, the colour never wafhes out.
Terrotaya, a hard white wood, very tough, forms the out-
riggers for canoes, railing for houfes, and all fuch kind of fencing,
and is preferred on account of its durability.
Eaje, the yellow and brown fandal wood, grows in the moun-
tains, but is fcarce; being precious, its growth might be encouraged
by planting, or perhaps a more careful examination will difcover a
greater abundance.
HooTDoo. A large fprcading tree, the wood not hard, em-
ployed in building canoes ; bears a large nut, thick in the middle,
and tapering at each end. It will intoxicate the fifli, when mixed
with bait, fo that they rife to the furface, and may be taken by
hand, but is not often ufed. *
Tow. A low tree, with wide fpreading branches. The wood is
white and foft; of this they make fcoops for bailing the canoes.
3 E
394 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
The leaves, with the mattde berry, form the beautiful fcarlet dye.
The flower has a fragrant fmell.
Mattde is about the fize of a cherry-tree ; the berries are as large
as the floe, or wild grape ; when ripe, of a deep brown. The bark
makes lines, and thread for feines j it alfo affords a fpecies of cloth,
and very fine white matting.
NoNO, a fmall tree, bears a fruit like four fop. Theinfide bark of
the root produces a fine light yellow dye.
Eawwa. The wild floe tree. The bark, when young, yields
the fine gray cloth called oraa, the mofl: ferviceable and valued of all
their manufadlures. The branches hang down and take root again,
forming a clufter, as a trunk of enormous fize.
EvAVYE, the filk cotton, grows in great abundance, about the
fize of a rofe-treej but the natives never gather the pods, nor make
any ufe of it.
RoA, a fmall fhrub, like hemp; the bark, when cleaned and
drefled, anfwers the fame purpofe, and makes, when fpun, the
ftrongefl: lines and cords.
Oh HE, the bamboo, a mofl: ufeful tree, grows in abundance on
the hills, rifing to the height of fixty feet, and of confiderable
thicknefs, though not very ftrong. They ufe them, when full
grown, for veflTels to hold their oil, plain or perfumed, fait water,
and any other liquids. They make good fences for houfes : fplit
fine, they ferve for carving-knives ; are ufed for fifliing-rods, for
hooking down the bread-fruit, for cafes, quivers for arrows, flutes,
and a variety of other things. Of the fmaller fort their arrows are
made.
Aeeho, or reed. With thefe, fences are made; they ferve to lay
under the thatch and fupport it. They grow very thick on the
mountains, and are fometimes fet on fire, to clear the ground.
The opoRRO, or red Chili pepper, like the tobacco, is fpread
over the ifland.
ArPENDix.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 395
EowTAY is a flirub about the fize of a rofe-tree. It bears a red
fragrant flower, with which they deck their hair. Inwardly it is
taken as a medicine for fore eyes, a common difordcr among the
children. When beat up in popoc, or pudding, it gives a tartiicfs,
to many very agreeable.
FwHARRA. Tlie prickly palm. The leaves are fix feet long,
and four inches broad, with fliarp prickles on the edges, and down
the rib in the middle. This forms their thatch, the leaves lapping
over each other, and fewed on the reed with the llcm of a cocoa-nut
leaf. The fliarpened rib of a hog fupplies the place of our thatcher's
needle. The feed of this tree is formed by an alTemblage of nuts, of
the fliape of pine, of a yellow colour when ripe, and having a
fragrant fmell and tafte. The bloflbm, which is of a buff colour,
and full of farina, highly perfumed, is a chief ingredient in fccnting
the cocoa-nut oil. The tree flourifhes on the moft fandy barren foil :
the outfide circle of wood is very hard, and furnifhes points for their
javelins ; the infide is foft and fpongy. The roots rife above ground,
and fupport theftem like fhores, ftanding thick round the bottom. The
leaves furnifli matting for the canoes, and mats for their heivas ; fomc
of the latter are ten or twelve fathoms long, and two fathoms wide.
Paapa. a fpecies of the former, but without its prickles. Of
this are made the finer mats, on which they fleep, and fometimes
wear them in wet weather, or in the water.
PiRREPiRRE is a fmall flirub, of a balfamic quality, not unhkc
gum ciftus. From the bark the matting of the finefl texture is made
for their maro, or faflies.
Oporro vye noohe. a fine flirub remarkable for its growth.
The root, in tafte, not unlike liquorice. The colour white. The
flock flioots lip about eighteen inches, and then branches off into
a kind of crown : when it dies to the flock, it is renewed by another
flioot yearly.
Bay eay. A running flirub, or vine. From this they form
their baflcets to catch ftiell-fifh, and others called purcta. It is ufcd
3E 2
396 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
in thatching to fix the pahn-leaf to the rafters, for raihng to their
houfes, and for lafliings, that are more durable than cord.
Yava is a flirub, whofe root is peppery and hot : as it furnifhes
their only intoxicating beverage, it is cultivated with great care.
The preparation is difgufling : feveral women have each a portion
given them to chew, of the ftem and root together, which, when
mafticated, they fpit into a bowl, into which fome of the leaves of
the plant are finely broken ; they add water, or cocoa-nut liquor :
the whole is then well flirred, and begins quickly to ferment, when it is
flrained or wrung out in the mooo grafs, or cocoa-nut fibres, and drank
in cups of folded leaves. It is highly intoxicating, and feems for a
while to deprive them of the ufe of their limbs : they lie down and
fleep till the effed:s are paiTed off, and during the time have their
limbs chafed with their women's hands. A gill of the yava
is a fufficient dofe for a man. When they drink it they always
eat fomething afterwards, and frequently fall afleep with the pro-
vifions in their mouths : when drank after a hearty meal it produces
but little effedl. After fome continuance of yava-drinking, the (kin
begins to be covered with a whitifh fcurf, like the leprofy , which many
regard as a badge of nobility : the eyes grow red and inflamed ; and
the foles of the feet parched and cracked into deep chaps, as fome
lips in winter. On the difcontinuance of the pra<5lice, however, the
fkin foon becomes fmooth and clean, and they grow fat, though few
are found who deny themfelves the ufe of it. This vice is confined
moftly to the chiefs and their followers ; the common people can
ftldom procure fuch an indulgence.
Toe, or fugar-cane, grows here fpontaneoufly, of a fize equal to
any in either Indies, and if cultivated, would be much larger and
richer; but the natives make very little ufe of it, except to chew a
piece as they are travelling; and when it gets high, they often fet it
on fire, to clear the land.
Hoo ERRo TooMO, the cabbage-tree, grows in the mountains,
but to no great fize. The natives feldom eat it. The leaves refcmble
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS.
197
fern, and form a circle round the top of the tree, the cabbage rifing
in the middle. The tree is about thirty feet high; the bark rough,
and hanging down like the fcalcs of a fifli from top to bottom.
Among the herbs there is a kind of crefles which furnifhes an
agreeable falad. Radiflics, calliloo, and all our culinary vege-
tables, are now cultivated ; but the Otaheiteans arc partial to their own
produce, and little relifh what we have brought them, regarding
them as curiofities, rather than of any utility.
SECTION XII.
Canoes.
THEIR canoes are of different fizes : they are narrow, and have
outriggers, or are doubled by lafliing two together. The ivar canoes
are always double, from fixty to ninety feet long, about three feet
wide, and fix in depth : the ftern rifes from twelve to twenty-four
feet high. They are ftrongly fecured by crofs pieces, firmly bound,
and extending over both fides, being fifteen or twenty feet in length.
The canoes themfelves are from four to fix feet afunder ; on thefe a
flage is eredled for the warriors : in the fi:age there are fcuttle-holes
for paddling. Each canoe is paddled by fixty or a hundred men ;
and the largeft capable of carrying three hundred perfons. On the
fore-part a breaftwork of plank is raifed about four feet high ; at this
the fpearmen are ported ; behind them the flingers, with piles or
bafkets of flones ; and every paddler has this weapon. Tlieir attacks
are made with great fury, running on board their advcrlary, and
fparing none but thofe who attend the lafliings. The vanquillicd can
only fave their lives by jumping into the fca, and fwimmmg to the
canoes not clofely engaged. The canoe taken, is carried off by the
conquerors if triumph. Such was the fate of great part of Otoo's
398 FIRST jNIISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
fleet, the prcfcnt Pomiirrc, foon after Cook left the ifland, and the
lofs hath never fince been repaired : there are not, at prcfent, five
large war canoes at Otahcite. Happily the ifland of Eimeo becoming
fubjecfl: to his fon's government, and Iddeah and Mannc Mannc,
fince the death of Motuaro, having the chief authority there, the
king hath little to apprehend from invafion, as he was moll eafily
vulnerable from that quarter.
The war canoes differ from common ones in conftruftion, having
high bows, on which are carved rude images of men ; and their
flerns run up tapering, fometimes to twenty-four feet, and ornamented
with the like figures : the bottom is fharp ; the fides rounding
in towards the top in the midfhip frame, like the print of a fpade on
a pack of cards. They are built of fhort pieces about fix feet each,
except the keel, which feldom exceeds three pieces, of twenty or
thirty feet long, and fometimes is formed of two only. The flaort
pieces are lafhed together fecurely with finnet made of cocoa-nut
fibres j the feams are calked with the fame, and payed with the bread-
fruit gum; but a heavy fea opens the feams, and makes them leaky;
and they have no methods of clearing the water but by bailing with
fcoops, fo that five or fix hands are thus conftantly employed at fea;
and in port they are hauled up on dry ground, to prevent their finking.
The bread-fruit tree plank is preferred for durability ; for though not
a clofe-grained wood, the fait- water worms will not touch it, a pro-
perty which few others of their woods poffefs.
In building the canoes, they ufe fire to burn out the infide of the
tree, and fmooth the fides with coral and fand ; but thofe who have
iron tools prefer the method of cutting them into fhape, and hollow,
as far more expeditious. They prepare their pitch for paying the
feams, by wrapping the gum of the bread-fruit tree round candle-
nuts ftuck on flcewers of cocoa-nut leaf ribs : thefe being lighted, the
pitch drops into a tray of water, and fqueezing out the aqueous par-
ticles, they fpread it on the plank edge, and lay the cocoa-nut hulk
beaten fine over it; then fmcar it with pitch, and fit on the next
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 399
plank, prcfTing it powerfully with ropes and levers, and fccuring it in
its place with lafhings.
The war canoes, and thofe facred to the Eatooa, are built by a
general levy : the chief ifTues his orders to the towhas, they to the
ratlrras, who call upon their tenants, the manahoiinc, for hogs, cloth,
oil, &c. to fupport the carpenters who arc font to the work. They
firft examine the hills, and pitch on the proper timbers : the ratirra
on whofe land it is found, fends men to cut \t down, and hew it in
the rough, under the carpenters* dirediion, that it may be the eafier
removed, as it is fometimes at a confiderable diftance. When the
timbers are colledled, they are laid under the flied where the canoe is to
be built : a feafl is then made to cno-ao-e the favourable afTiftance of the
o o
Eatooa ; and being very acceptable to the workmen, they hold one before
the tree is cut down, another at the commencement of the building, and
on making faft every courfe. When the firfl: flrake or bottom is com-
pleted, there is a great entertainment and offering, and fo on till the
whole is finifhed, when the feftivity is greatefl, and the canoe for
the Eatooa drefled out with cloth, breaftplates, and red feathers, and
a human vidlim is offered. The offerings for the war canoes are
only hogs, &c. which are brought to the morai of the chief in
whofe diftri^l it is built j there the priefls ftrangle them as ufual,
and clean them, fmearing them over with their own blood, and
placing them on the fwhatta, or altar, with young plantain-trees,
and long prayers : the entrails and guts are cleaned and eaten at the
morai. Sometimes the hogs are drelTed before they are offered on the
altar ; there they are left to putrefy, or be eaten by birds which fre-
quent thefe places; the heron efpecially, and the woodpecker.
Thefe birds are refpeded as facred, and never killed, as it is fuppofcd
the deity defccnds in them, when he comes to the morai to infpire the
priefl, and give an anfwcr to their prayers.
The canoe offered to the Eatooa, finely drcffed, is drawn up to the
mbrai with all the facrifices and oblations ; there the eye of the dead
vidiim is firft offered to the king, with the plantain and prayers, and
400 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
the body interred in the morai. The hogs are killed and offered as
before, and the priefts take the cloth and decorations, which arc
prcfentcd to the young king.
Confidering the greatnefs of the work, and the beauty of the
execution, it is aftonifliing how, without the knowledge of iron,
^without rule or compafs, with a ftone adze only, the leg or arm
bone of a man fharpened for the purpofe of chifel, gouge, and
;gimlet, with coral only and find, they can carve fo neatly and finifli
fo fmoothly ; our moft ingenious workmen could not exceed them.
To cut with fuch inftruments, out of the hardefl and moft iblid wood
to form planks, not more than two out of a tree, and build veflcls
capable of carrying three hundred perfons, muft require fuch endlefs
labour and perfeverance, as makes it wonderful how they fhould ever
be finifhed.
The war canoes differ in conflrudion, as well as fize, from the
fifliing and travelling canoes j thefe latter being low for paddling,
flat-fided, and confifling commonly of but one broad plank fixed on
the tree hollowed out, with a raifed flern. On the bow a plank
projeds about fix or eight feet, on which a platform is laid, and a
travelling houfe ered:ed, which can be carried on fhore and ferve for
a temporary abode : fometimes only an awning is fpread, and here
the paffcngers, or the perfons of mofl dignity, are feated. The flerns
are broad, and, according to the nobility of the owner, railed and
ornamented, fome to fourteen feet high, of carved work, reprefenting
men fupporting each other on their hands, tier upon tier, and fur-
mounted by a piece of carved work, of three or four feet round, and
hollow, fomething like a Gothic tower. Thefe, according to their
bulk, are paddled by from four to twenty men, and can be rowed
iingJe, or made double, as occafion requires.
They have ftill fmaller double canoes, and fingle ones with an
outrigger for common ufe. Thofe defigned for failing have fome
one maft and fome two, whether the canoe be fingle or double : this
mafl is fixed with flirouds and f^ays ; the fails are made of matting
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 401
long and narrow, and have a kind of fprit laced up and down the
after leech, and reaching one third higher than the maft-head, form-
ing a bow from the height of the maft upwards, and keeping the
weather leech of the fail tight from the maft-head to the fprit-cnd,
to which a long pennant made of feathers is ufually faftened ; and
the lower part is extended on a bamboo boom, to which the fprit is
fecurely laflied ; and here alfo the fheet is made fafb. In the finglc
canoe the maft is placed nearly before the midfhips ; in the double
the foremaft is raifed in the one, and the mainmafl in the other, at
nearly one third each. The war canoes have their marts and fails in
the fame manner; on the maft there is a kind of bafket-work like
a funnel. The fingle canoes, when rigged for failing, are raifed
with a wafliboard of ten or twelve inches above the gunwale ; and on
the top of this, oppofite to the outrigger, is a ftage about two feet
wide, and running about ten or twelve feet along the fide of the
canoe : this is made of planks well laflied to the fpars which fupport
them, and to this they bring the flirouds. The outrigger is generally
two thirds the length of the canoe ; at the extremity is fixed a float
as long as the canoe, and kept in the fame diredlion as the keel by
a fmaller outrigger placed near the ftern : but as thefe are not always
exactly parallel and nicely adjufted, they impede the velocity of the
canoe, which feldom fails above five or fix knots an hour. As they
have no method of reducing their fail at the head, being only able
to caft it off at the foot, and roll up a part, they are driven to the
greateft inconvenience when overtaken by bad weather, and frequently
difmafted, overfet, or blown off" the coaft, and heard of no more.
When a fquall comes on, they luff the head of the canoe to it ; and
if flie is likely to fall off, they jump overboard, and hold her head
to windward till the guft of wind is paffed ; then get in, and purfue
their courfe. When overfet, their firft care is to lafli every thing
faft, and tow the canoe round with the maft-head to windward;
and having a line faftened to the fprit-end, they get all hands on the
3 F
40Z FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
float of the outrigger, and hauling the head of the fail out of the
water, fwing off with their whole weight, and the wind getting under
the fail rights the canoe : two or three continue in- the water, and hold
her head to the wind, and when clear they proceed on their voyage.
This accident frequently happens on returning from fifliing ; and fo
little danger do they apprehend from being thus overfet four or five
miles from land, that they never think of affifting each other; nor do
thofe who are in the water call for any help, though fometimes they
lofe fo much ground, as to be obliged to run down to Eimeo or Ulietea.
Their canoes convey them to the iflands in the neighbourhood of
Otaheite. Tethuroah, one of the neareft, is the property of Otoo
and his family, diftant about eight leagues north from Point Venus ;
it confifls of ten fmall iflets, furrounded by a reef ten leagues in cir-
cumference. Thefe can only be approached in calm weather becaufe
of the furf, and then only by fmall canoes, which are hauled over
the reef : thither the king fends his moft valuable property in time
of war or danger. As thefe illets are not approachable by war canoes,
they afford an impregnable fortrefs. To prevent the inhabitants
fro^.n calling off his authority, Otoo fuffers no bread-fruit or vegetable
food of any kind to grow there, but cocoa-nuts and taro-roots for the
convenience of the chiefs who go there on a vifit. Thefe iflands
abound with fifh, which they bring to Otoo, and load back with
provifions. The filh he ufes himfelf, and diftributes to his friends.
About forty fail of canoes are thus employed, befides thofe ufed at
home in fifhery. The Matavai canoes alfo, when not engaged in
the dolphin fifhery, make frequent voyages to Tethuroah, carrying
provifions, and bringing back fifh and cocoa-nut oil in exchange; and
a fine fifli fauce, called tyeyro, made of cocoa-nut kernel at a proper
age grated, and mixed with picked fhrimps. This is put into bafkets
to digefl for a day or two, when it refembles curd, acquires an agree-
able tartnefs, and is fit for ufe ; mixed with fait water it is an admired
fauce, not only for fifli, but for pork and fowls. The cocoa-nut
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 403
mufl not be fully grown, for it would turn oily and become rancid.
The fame fauce is made in great quantities at Otaheitc, and a balkct
of it always accompanies a prefent of fifh, or a baked hog.
Maitea is fubjedl to a chief of Tiaraboo, and about twenty-fcven
leagues diftant eaflward. The communication is by a large war
canoe, which makes a voyage or two annually, taking advantage of
the north-wefterly wind to go thitlier, and of the trade-wind to
return. From this ifland they chiefly obtain their pearls and pearl
fhells, with difhes and ftools of tammanoo, and other articles. Ta-
piohe, famous for pearl, lies farther on in the fame diredlion. In
return for what they receive, they carry nails and fuch iron- work as
they can fpare j and this palTes in exchange to more diftant iflands.
SECTION XIII.
Dift'iifes.
TILL the Europeans vifitcd them, they had few diforders among
them ; their temperate and regular mode of life, the great ufe of
vegetables, little animal food, and abfence of all noxious diftillcd
fpirits and wines, preferved them in health. The cafe at prefent is
wofully altered.
Their moft common complaints are coughs, colds, and intermittent
fevers, partly brought on by the changes of weather, and partly by
the mode of bathing, to which they habituate thcmfelves, often
reeking with fweat. They fometimes undergo a temporary infinity
during the wet feafon, when the fun is vertical, probably from being
expofed with their bare heads to his perpendicular beams : this dif-
order attacks them ufually when the bread-fruit ripens, and is attended
with boils on the ikin, which carry off the diford>;r, and the perfon
once recovered is affc6led no more ; though with fomc it continues a
3 F 3
40+ FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
longer feafon than with others. Theague fometimcs is fatal, as they have
no medicine which is effectual for its cure. They are fubjedl to vaft
ruptures, occafioned by too great exertions in wrcftling, jumping,
and lifting. The glands behind their ears often fwell and fuppurate,
leaving large fears like the king's evil ; to thefe they make no ap-
plication but wafliing ; and when we would have perfuaded them to
lay on a poultice, they objecfled, as they muft not pafs the facred
ground with any thing on their heads, or above their flioulders ;
and there is no confining them to the houfe as long as they are able
to fl:and on their legs. As it is their fixed opinion, that no difcafe
affedls them but as a punifliment mflidted by their Eatdoa for fome
offence, and never brought on themfelves by intemperance or impru-
dence, they truft more to the prayers of their priefts than to any
medicine. Nature, however, and their good conftitutions, perform
wonderful cures. One man had received a mufl<.et-ball, which pafled
through his breaft and fhoulder-blade ; another had his arm broken
by a ball ; a third received it as he was ftooping ; it paffed through
his thigh, entered his breafl, and came out behind his collar-bone :
feveral others were dreadfully fmafhed with ftones ; one had his upper
jaw broken inward, with the lofs of fix or feven teeth, and a part
of the bone : and yet all recovered furprifingly foon, without any
application. All bandages they abominate, and cannot bear the fmell
of the drefiings of a wound ,• flying always to the water when any
thing of this kind affeds them, and grating fandal wood on the part,
to take off the offenfive fetor. If they happen to have a leg broken,
it ufually kills them, not fo much from the fradure itfelf, as from
their efforts to crawl to the water, from which nothing reflrains
them : this often brings on inflammation and mortification, where
there could be elfe no danger. Some bear the fears of the jagged
ftingray fpear paffing through their bodies, and are recovered. A
broken arm is fometimes completely reflored by bamboo fplints, as
it admits of their going about with it in a fling.
Our furgeon, in his vifits to the different parts of the ifland, adds
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 405
to this catalogue the clephantiafis, which he obiervcd of a mod
prodigious kind, one man's leg being fwellcd as big as a youth's
body ; yet he continued going about. There is hardly one of the
chiefs but is affeded with cuticular difcafcs, and many like lepers
from head to foot, occafioncd by drinking the yava ; yet they regard
this as an honourable diftinftion, calling it the yava fkin rather than
a difeafe. Many have, in the rainy ftafon, confiderable inflamma-
tion in their eyes, and their children are often fubjcdt to a tetterous
eruption, which continues for a long while. A few have been found
affedled with the itch, whether a communicated or an cndcmial difeafe
is not certain. But of all plagues that mofl fatal to fociety, the venereal,
has been communicated to them, probably by Europeans, and it has
fpread grievoufly, one in four being fuppofed afFc6ted w ith it : many
moll mifcrable objeds, with foul and horrid ulcers, carious bones,
lofs of limbs, and in the lafl ftage of confumption, prefented them-
felves. Of thefe was the brother of the high-pricft Manne Manne,
worn to a (keleton by the difcharge of a venereal ulcer in his neck,
which affeded the organs of refpiration, and left little hopes of re-
lief. Many are feparated from their families in a flied or out-
houfe, nor fufFered to touch provifion of any kind but what is brought
them j their dcareft friends and relatives Ihun them; they arc not
permitted to bathe near any perfon in the river ; and though they
are not left to ftarve, they are abandoned to rot alive. Many refufed
all medicines, and would fubmit to no applications ; others took them
with great avidity. The benefit received in many cafes by the
mercurial ointment caufed great wonder in the natives ; and in the
hands of a fkilful man cannot fail of refcuing many from death and
mifcry. This fatal and difgufting difeafe, being moft prevalent, efpe-
cially claims our compafTion, though the natives are fo carclefs, and
averfe to all confincm.ent, that it is the hardefl: tafk in the world to
engage them to follow proper direilions. We are ufing our utmofl
efforts to have fome of our brethren under the beft tuition, for the
purpofe of attaining medical (kill, efpecially to be acquainted with.
4o6 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
tlie propercfl methods of treating this foul plague, and have hope of
five or fix who will have fome medical information, and be parti-
cularly converfmt with this fubjedl ; and who may be capable of
affording effedual relief to fuch as will fubmit to the necefT;\ry
regimen.
They attribute others of their maladies to an European origin,
and fuppofe every veflel which hath vilited them has left them fome
new difeafes ; among thefe they reckon the dyfentery from Van-
couver.
It was difficult to perfuade them to take medicine, except in fyrups,
of which they are fond ; though fome fubmitted to fwallow the
bark in cocoa-nut liquor, and got rid of their intermittents.
SECTION XIV.
On the comparative State of the IJIands,
IT may not be unacceptable to pafs in review a few remarks on
the comparative ftate of the different iflands where we have begun
our mifhonary attempts, as from the manners and character of the
people, and the nature of their governments, fome conjecfture may
be formed refpedling the hope of fucceeding in our endeavours to
civilize and impart to them the bleffings of Chriflianity.
Hereditary fucceffion appears the eftablifhed cuflom at Otaheite,
and Otoo fovereign ; his chieftains, though fupreme in their feveral
diflrids, owing him paramount obedience, and apparently at prefent
unable to control his authority, and in a flate of general fubjedion.
At Tongataboo an oligarchy feems to prevail, at the head of which
is a monarch of the Futtafaihe race, to whom all pay homage j yet
another perfon, under the title of Dugonagaboola, has the chief
power and authority, commanding the army by feaand land: whether
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 407
this office be hereditary or eledive is not arcertaincd. Toogahovvc,
though not the eldeft fon, on the death of Tibo Moomooe, affiimed
the government ; his acknowledged warhke charadler probably re-
moved every competitor. Befides thcfe, other chiefs fecm pofTeffed
of great power. In Ohitahoo, the only ifland of the Marquefas
which we vifited, the chief feems poffclTcd of lefs power than was
exercifed in both the others. Tongataboo refembles moft the govern-
ment of Japan, where the facred majefty is a fort of ftate prifoner to
the captain-general ; but at the Friendly Iflands Futtafaihe has great
authority, though Dugonagaboola feems as fuperior in command as
he acknowledges himfelf inferior in dignity. Thus Tacitus delcribes
Germany as polTcffed of a monarch hereditary, propter dignitatem^
and a great general, dux, eledled, propter virtutcm, on account of his
courage and military (kill. In thefe iflands llrong traits of the ancient
feudal fyftem appear.
In their perfons, the men of the fuperior rank all feem a larger
race than ourfelves, or the common people. At Otaheite they were
fofter featured, more full and flefhy ; at Tongataboo more mufcular,
and affedting a more ftately gait and fuperiority ; at Ohitahoo, though
complaining of hunger, they were fufficiently plump, and much
more tattooed all over, and diftinguiflied by drefs and ornaments.
The women at the Marquefas, for beauty of feature, fymmetry
of form, and lightnefs of colour, far exceeded the other iflands. At
Otaheite and Tongataboo very few were feen who had pretenfions to
beauty ; they were generally large, their features mafculine, their
colour deeper, and many very difgufting : yet at Ohitahoo the females
appeared in the moft abjedl fubjedion, whilft at Otaheite Ibme en-
joyed diftingui filed dignity, without particular prohibitions as to food;
and thole who were under reftridlions feemed not fo enflaved, and at
liberty to change their hufbands if they pleafed. At Tongataboo
fome were held in higheft reverence, and Futtafaihe himfelf paid
one elderly woman the fame exprefTion of homage wliich he received
from every other chieftain.
4oS FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
In improvements and civil government the people of the Friendly
Iflands appear fiipcrior : their canoes are larger, more numerous,
and better formed ; their clubs and carvings more curious, their land
better cultivated, their roads neatly maintained, and their country
generally enclofcd with reed fences ; property alfo appears more pro-
ted:ed, and no arbitrary exadlions noticed : while the defpotic rule
at Otaheite, in many inftances, and the infolent demands of the
arreoy fociety, tend to deflroy all induflry. Refpedl for the chiefs
is every where great, but appeared leaft at Ohitahoo.
In manners, the Society iflanders feem the mofl dilTolute, and the
arreoy fociety the fink of lewdnefs and cruelty. In the Friendly Iflands
marriage is general, and, except the chiefs, they feem to have only
one wife. It is faid at Tongataboo, that adultery is puniflied with
death. There, and at the Marquefas, no infant murders are allowed;
but, contrariwife, they are fond of their children, and take plcafure
in a numerous family. Though at the deceafe of Tibo Moomooe,
and during his illnefs, fome cruel and inhuman practices are men-
tioned, yet nothing comparable with the horrible human facrifices
at Otaheite. In another feature alfo they greatly differ, as old age is
as much refpedled at Ohitahoo and Tongataboo as it is negledled at
Otaheite.
In their propenfity to theft they too much refembled each other,
though the Friendly iflanders feemed the mofl daring. With re-
fpe(5l to the dif^afe which makes the mofl: fatal ravage, the Society
iflanders are much the mofl generally infedled ; fewer at Tongataboo ;
and at the Marquefas it is happily yet unknown.
As to native fertility, all the iflands, with prudence and culture,
would furnifh abundant fupplies ; but as the natives labour little, and
truft to the fpontaneous produdions of the earth chiefly, all fuffer
at certain times of the year, when the bread-fruit is out of feafon,
a temporary fcarcity. At Ohitahoo it amounted to hunger; the
iTiahie was difgufting ; and the very animals were pinched for want of
food, though no where did the bread-fruit trees appear more flourifh-
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 409
ing. At Tongataboo, the chiefs, to fecurc plenty, changed their
abodes to other iflands. At Otahcite the greatefl profufion of native
produ(flions appeared, notwithftanding the horrible vvafte committed
at their feaftings, and by the arreoy focicty ; and want is fcldom
known. The border of low land teems with plenty of bread-fruit,
evee, and cocoa-nut. At Ohitahoo there is no low land ; at Ton-
gataboo the country is flat and cnclofed, and, though little
cultivated, very produdtive. But after vifiting all the other iflands,
Captain Wilfon obferves, that he was forcibly ftruck, at his fecond
vifit to Otaheite, with the fuperior politencfs of their manners, their
Angular cordiality of addrefs, and their vifible improvement during
that fmall fpace in the fcale of civilization in drefs as well as beha-
viour : and taking into the account its amenity, the falubrity of the
climate, the plenty of fine water, fpontaneous productions of the
earth, the rich and moft romantically pid.urefque appearances of the
country, he felt the juftice of the title given to Otaheite by one of
the navigators, as the Queen of Iflands.
3 G
410
FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE
[Appendix.
ARTICLES OF FAITH,
OR
PRINCIPLES OF RELIGION,
BRAWN UP BY THE COMMITTEE OF EIGHT PERSONS CHOSEN BY THE BODY
OF MISSIONARIES, ON BOARD THE DUKPj AT SEA.
Art. I. Of the Holy Scriptures.
J. HE Holy Scripture is contained in the Old and New Teftaments,
as under :
Genefis
I Kings
Ecclefiaftes ^
Obadiah
Exodus
2 Kings
Song of Solomon
Jonah
Leviticus
I Chronicles
Ifaiah
Micah
Numbers
2 Chronicles
Jeremiah
Nahum
Deuteronomy
Ezra
Lamentations
Habakkuk
Jofhua
Nehemiah
Ezekiel
Zephaniah
Judges
Efther
Daniel
Haggai
Ruth
Job
Hofea
Zechariah
1 Samuel
Pfalms
Joel
Malachi
2 Samuel
Proverbs
Amos
Matthew
2 Corinthians
I Timothy
2 Peter
Mark
Galatians
2 Timothy
I John
Luke
Ephefians
Titus
2 John
John
Philippians
Philemon
3 John
The Ads
Coloffians
Hebrews
Jude
Ep. to Romans
I ThefHilonians
Ep. of James
Revelations
I Corinthians 2 Theflalonians i Peter
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 4,,
Such is the revelation of God's purpofe, mind, and will, and given by
the infpiration of the Holy Ghoft ; it containeth all things ncccfliiry
to be believed concerning God, creation, providence, the fall of man,
his recovery, and the final end of all things : therefore the truths
contained therein are to be received and believed ; and nothing fliould
be believed by any, or enforced upon any, as necclTary to filvation,
faith, or prad:ice, but that which it exprefleth, or may be proved
thereby.
, Art. II. Of God.
There is but one only living and true God, who is infinite in
being and perfeftion, a moft pure Spirit, invifiblc, without body or
parts, immutable, immenfe, eternal, incomprchcnfiblc, infinitely juft,
almighty, and moft wife; the creator, maker, and former of all crea-
tures, the preferver and governor of all things, vifible and invifible;
and in the unity of the Godhead there are three perfons, of one
fubflance, power, and eternity — God the Father, God the Son, and
God the Holy Ghoft.
A R T . Ill . Of the Fall of Man.
God having created man in his own image, in knowledge, righte-
oufnefs, and true holinefs, with dominion over the creatures, entered
into a covenant of life with him, not only for himfcif but for all
his pofterity, upon condition of perfed: obedience, forbidding him to
eat of the tree of knowledge of good and evil upon the pain of death ;
which covenant he brake, being feduced by Satan to eat of the fruit
of that tree^ and, having thereby loft the image of God and all com-
munion with him, he incurred his wrath and curfe both in this life
and in that which is to come ; in which ruin his whole race became
neceffi\rily involved, having this his firft tranfgreflion moft juftly
imputed to them, and deriving from him a nature wholly corrupted
and depraved.
■? G 2
412 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
Art. IV. Of Free Will.
Man, in his ftate of innocency, had freedom and power to will
and to do that which is good and well-pleafing to God ; but yet
mutable, fo that he might fall from it. But by his fall into a ftate
of fin, he hath wholly loft all ability of will to any fpiritual good
accompanying falvation ; fo that as a natural man, being altogether
avcrfefrom good, and dead in fin, he is not able, by his ownftrength,
to convert himfelf, or to prepare himfelf thereunto.
When God converts a finner, and tranflates him into a ftate of
grace, he freeth him from his natural bondage under fin ; and by his
grace alone enables him freely to will and to do that which is fpi-
ritually good.
Art. V. Of Chrijl the Mediator.
The Son, which is the Word of the Father, co-equal and co-eternal
with the Father, the very and eternal God, of one fubftance with
the Father, took man's nature in the womb of the blefled Virgin, of
her fubftance, fo that two whole and perfed; natures, that is to fay,
the Godhead and manhood, were joined together, never to be divided,
whereof is one Chrift, very God and very man j who, by his perfed:
obedience and facrifice of himfelf, which he, through the Eternal
Spirit, once offered up unto God, hath fully fatisfied the juftice of
the Father; and not only made reconciliation, but likewife purchafed
an everlafting inheritance in the kingdom of heaven for all thofe
whom the Father hath given to, or chofen in him.
Art. VI. Of the Holy Ghojl.
The Holy Ghoft, proceeding from the Father and the Son, is of
one fubftance, majefty, and glory, with the Father and the Son, very
and eternal God; whofe office, in the economy of falvation, is to
convince, regenerate, and convert thofe whom the Father gave to
Chrift in his eternal nurpofe, and make them partakers of all the
benefits of the covenant of grace, both in time and eternity.
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 413
Art. VII. Of the RefurreBion of Chrijl.
Chrift did truly rife again from death, and took again his body, with
flcfli, bones, and all things appertaining to the perfection of man's
nature, wherewith he afcended into heaven, and there fitteth making
interceffion for all his people until he return to judge all men at the
laft day.
A R T . V I II . Of Predefi nation and Ele^ion .
Predeftination to life is the everlafting purpofe of God, whereby
(before the foundations of the world were laid) he hath decreed, by
his counfel fecret to us, to deliver from curfe and damnation thofe
whom he hath chofen in Chrift (not for any thing forefeen in them,
but according to his eternal purpofe and grace) out of mankind,
and to bring them by Chrift to everlafting falvation, as vcflels made
to honour.
Wherefore they which be endued with fo excellent a benefit of
God, be called according to God's purpofe by his Spirit working in
due feafon; they through grace obey the calling; they be juflified
freely ; they be made fons of God by adoption ; they be made like
the image of his only begotten Son Jefus Chrift; they walk reli-
gioufly in good works ; and at length, by God's mercy, they attain
to everlafting felicity.
Art. IX. Of the J uf if cat ion of Man.
Juftification is an ad: of God's free grace, wherein he pardoneth
all our fins, and accepteth us as righteous in his fight, only lor
the righteoufnefs of Chrift imputed to us, and received by faith
alone.
Art. X. Of Good Works.
Good works are only fuch as God hath commanded in his holy
word, and not fuch as, without the warrant thereof, are devifed by
men out of blind zeal, or upon any pretence of good intentions :
although good works, which are the fruits of fiiith, and follow after
414 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
juflification, cannot put away our fins, and endure the feverity of
God's judgments, yet are they pleafing and acceptable to God in
Chrifl:, and do Ipring out necelllxrily of a true and lively faith ; in-
fomuch that by them a lively faith may be as evidently known as a
tree is difcerned bv its fruit.
Art. XI, Of the Laiv of God.
The moral law doth for ever bind all, as well juftified perfons as
others, to the obedience thereof; and that not only in regard of the
matter contained in it, but alfo in refped: of the authority of God the
creator who gave it : neither doth Chrift in the gofpel any way dif-
folve, but much flrengthen this obligation.
Although true believers be not under the law as a covenant of
works, to be thereby juHified or condemned; yet it is of great ufe
to them as well as to others ; in that, as a rule of life, informing
them of the will of God and their duty, it direds and binds them
to walk accordingly j difcovering alfo the finful pollutions of their
nature, hearts, and lives j fo as examining themfelves thereby they
may come to further convidlion of, humiliation for, and hatred againft
fin ; together with a clearer fight of the need they have of Chrift, and
the perfedion of his obedience : it is likewife of ufe to the regene-
rate to reflrain their corruption, in that it forbids fin ; and the
threatenings of it ferve to fliew what even their fins deferve, and
what afflidiions in this life they may expedl for them, although
freed from the curfe thereof threatened in the law.
Art. XII. Of the State of Men after Death, and of the
RcfurreBion of the Dead.
The bodies of men after death return to dull, and fee corruption j
but their fouls (which neither die nor fleep) having an immortal
fubftance, immediately return to God who gave them. The fouls of
the righteous, being made perfed in holinefs, are received into the
highefl heavens, where they behold the face of God in light and
Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 415
glory, waiting only for the full redemption of their bodies : and the
fouls of the wicked are caft into hell, where they remain in torments
and utter darknefs, referved to the judgment of the great day. Bcfule
thefe two places, for fouls fcparate from their bodies, the Scripture
acknowledgeth none. At the lafl: day, fuch as are found alive Ihall
not die, but be changed ; and all the dead fliall be raifed up with
the felf-fame bodies, and none other, although with different qualities,
vv^hich fhall be again united to their fouls for ever.
The bodies of the unjuft fhall, by the power of Chrifl, be raifed
to diflionour ; the bodies of the juft, by his fpirit, unto honour, and
be made conformable to his own glorious body.
Art. XIII. Of the lajl Judgment.
God hath appointed a day wherein he will judge the world in
righteoufnefs, by Jefus Chrifl, to whom all power and judgment is
given of the Father ; in which day not only the apoftate angels fliall
be judged, but likewife all perfons that have lived upon earth fliall
appear before the tribunal of Chrifl, to give an account of their
thoughts, words, and deeds j and to receive according to what they
have done in the body, whether good or evil. The end of God's
appointing this day is for the manifeflation of the glory of his mercy
in the eternal filvation of the eled:, and of his juflice in the damna-
tion of the wicked and difobedient ; for then fliall the righteous go
into everlalling life, and receive that fulnefs of joy and refrcfhing
which fliall come from the prefence of the Lord ; but the wicked
who know not God, and obey not the gofpel of Jefus Chrifl, fliall
be cafl into everlafling burnings, and be puniflied with eternal de-
ftrudlion from the prefence of the Lord, and from the glory of his
power.
Art. XIV. Of the Church.
The catholic or univerfal church, which is invifible, confifls
of the whole number of the eledl that have been, are, or fliall be
gathered into one, under Chrift the head thereof; and is the fpoufe,
41 6 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
the body, the fulnefs of Him that filleth all in all. The vifible church,
^^■llich is alfo catholic or univerfal under the gofpel (not confined to
one nation as before, under the law), confifts of all thofe throughout
the world that profefs the true religion, together with their children ;
and is the kingdom of the Lord Jefus Chrift, the houfe and family
out of which there is no ordinary poffibility of falvation.
Unto this catholic vifible church Chrift hath given the miniflry,
oracles, and ordinances of God, for the gathering and perfedling of
the faints, in this life, to the end of the world ; and doth by his
own prefence and fpirit, according to his promife, make them eflfedlual
thereunto.
There is no other head of the church but the Lord Jefus Chrift ;
neither hath any temporal prince, fecular power, or civil magiftrate,
any right to exercife any authority over her ; neither needeth ftie any
eftablifliments from them, being founded upon Him who is the rock
of ages ; fo that the gates of hell fliall not prevail againft her ; and
the Higheft himfelf fhall eftablifli her.
The vifible church hath, in fubje<5lion to Chrift her head, power
to chufe bifliops, or paftors, and deacons, to a6t in their feveral
offices. The church likewife hath power to depofe both minifters
and deacons, if it be found neceftary for truth and confcience fake;
to admit members into church fellowfliip; and, in cafe of mifcondud,
to exclude them from her communion ; but if the caufe or reafon
of depofing the one or excluding the other is removed, then flie
hath power, and ought to re-admit them into the fame church fcl-
lowftiip.
Art. XV. Offbe Oncers of the Church.
Chrift, in the riches of his love and care towards his church, hath
appointed in it to be of perpetual ftanding ufe, as what will be need-
ful to the church throughout all generations to the end of the world ;
ift. Paftors or bifhops, that fliould be fettled in different churches,
to take a peculiar care of them, to prefide, watch, and rule over them
Ai'VENDix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 417
in the Lord ; and to adminifter ordinances of vvorfhip and difciplinc,
as well as to preach the word to them j who are to be folcmnly fct
apart to their important office by failing, prayer, and laying on of
hands, by one or more perfons who have been rcgiil rly called and
ordained to the minifterial office, 2d. Deacons ; unto whole oflicc
belongs the adual cxcrcife and application of the bounty and bene-
volence of the church unto the poor that are planted therein ; and to
provide for the table of the Lord ; and who are to be ordained to their
truft by prayer and impofition of hands.
Art. XVL Of the Ordinance of Buptifm.
Baptifm is an ordinance of the Lord Jefus Chrift's inftitution in
his vifible church, to be continued till the end of time, and is a vifible
fign of inward and fpiritual grace, is an initiating ordinance to the
fellowfhip and commimion of the church, and is to be adminiftered
to believing adults and their children, and them only : the mode of
adminiflration to be that of pouring or fprinkling, and is to be
done by a minifter of the word of God, lawfully called and ordained
thereunto.
Art. XVI L Of the Ordinance of the hordes Supper.
The Lord's Supper is an ordinance of the NewTeftamcnt, wherein,
by giving and receiving bread and wine, according to the appointment
of Jefus Chrili, his death is fhewed forth ; and they that worthily
communicate feed upon his body and blood, to their fpiritual nourifli-
ment and growth in grace; have their union and communion with
him confirmed ; teftify and renew their thankfulncfs and enga:^-cm.ents
to God, and their mutual love and fellowfliip with each other, as
members of the fame myftical body ; and is to be adminifl^rcd by
one who labours in word and doclrine, properly called and ordained
thereunto.
3 "
41 8 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix.
Art. XVIII. Of the SanElification of the Lord's Day.
The Lord's day ought to be fo remembered beforehand, as that all
worldly bufinefs of our ordinary calling may be fo ordered, and fo
timely and feafonably laid afide, as they may not be impediments to
the due fandtifying of the day when it comes. The whole day is to be
celebrated as holy to the Lord, both in public and private, as being
the Chriflian fabbath. To which end it is requifite, that there be a
holy ceffation or refting all that day from all unneceflary labours, and
an abflaining from all worldly words and thoughts : that all the
people meet fo timely for public worfhip, that the whole congregation
may be prefent at the beginning, and with one heart folemnly join
together in all parts of the public worfliip, and not depart till after
the blelTing.
Art. XIX. Of the Ordinances in a particular Congregation.
The ordinances in a fingle congregation are, prayer, thankfgiving,
and finging of pfalms or hymns, the word read (although there fol-
low no immediate explication of what is read), the word expounded
and applied, catechifing, the facraments adminiilered, and difmiffing
the people with a blefling.
A R T . X X . Of Marriage.
Marriage is of divine appointment, inftituted by God at the time of
man's innocency, for the procreation of children to be brought up in
the nurture and admonition of the Lord, and to the praife of his holy
name, for a remedy againfl: fin, and to avoid fornication, that fuch
perfons as have not the gift of continency might marry, and keep
themfelves undefiled. This was praftifed in the Jewifti church,
countenanced by Chrift, and recommended by the apoftle as honour-
able among all. Therefore marriage is to be between one man and
one woman only j and they fuch as are not within the degrees of
Appbndix.] to the SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 419
Confanguinity or affinity prohibited by the word of God ; and the
perfons are to be of years and difcretion, fit to make their own
choice, or, upon good grounds, to give their mutual confent. Then
the perfons about to enter the flate of marriage are to fignify their
intentions to the minifter refiding ncarcfl: to their refpedlive abodes
three weeks before their intended confummation of marriage, that he
may publicly declare their intentions three fucceffive fabbaths in the
congregation, to the end that if there beany lawful objedions againft
the perfons entering into that holy ftatc, it may be fet afide j but it
no objedlion appears, then the day being appointed (which we advifc
not to be the fabbath), and a competent number of witncffes afl'emblcd,
the minifter, after a folemn prayer to Cod and a fuitable exhortation,
is to proceed as follows: viz. firfl: directing the man to take the
woman by the right hand, and fay thefe words, "I, M. do take
" thee, N, to be my married wife, and do in the prefence of God and
" before this congregation promifc and covenant to be a loving and
" faithful hufband unto thee, until God fhall feparate us by death."
Then the woman fhall take the man by the right hand, and fay thefe
words: " I, A^. do take thee, M. to be my married hufband, and I
*' do in the prefence of God and before this congregation promife
" and covenant to be a loving, faithful, and obedient wife unto thee,
" until God fhall feparate us by death," Then without any further
ceremony the minifler fliall in the face of the congregation pronounce
them to be hufband and wife, according to God's ordinance ; and
fo conclude with prayer.
A R T . X X 1 . 0/ibc Burial of the Dead.
Chrift hath no where in his word commanded any ceremony to be
made ufe of over a deceafcd pcrfon, either previous to, or at the
interment ; fuch as finging, praying, &c. Therefore it fecms moft
confiflent that the dead body be in a decent manner conveyed to the
place appointed for public burial, and then immediately committed to
the earth. Yet it is the duty of every Chrifliau friend carneftly to
3 H a
420
FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE.
[Appendix.
endeavour to improve the bereaving difpenfation, by meditation and
conferences fuitable thereto. — And it is Hkewife incumbent upon the
pallor of the congregation to endeavour to fpeak a word in fcafon to
furvivors, fuitable to the occafion.
The Foiin of Signature as folloivs :
We whofe names are underwritten do, in the prefence of God
and each other, acknowledge and believe all and every one of the
above articles are agreeable to and confonant with the word of God ;
and are, through divine afliftance, refolved to promulgate and teach
the truths contained therein among the heathen ; and purpofe, by the
fame grace, to live conformable thereunto, to the glory of God, until
death.
Daniel Bowell
John Buchanan
James Fleet Cover
John Harris
William Henry
Thomas Lewis
Edward Main
William Shelley
Henry Bicknell
Benjamin Broomhall
Samuel Clode
John Cock
James Cooper
William Crook
John Eyre
S. Gaulton
Samuel Harper
Rowland Haflall
Peter Hodges
John Jcfferfon
S. Kelfo
Henry Nott
Francis Oakes
James Puckey
William Puckey
William Smith.
George Vafon
James Wilkinfon
SUBSCRIBERS
SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES.
A.
A.
lDAM, I W. Efq. Cnitched-frlars
Adams, H. Frome
Adams, Mr. Is.iiigf«ood
Adams, Mr. Rochefler
Alderfev, J. Caiionburv-place
ALVrlcy, \V. Seward-ftreet
Aliindge, M. fen. Chriftchurch
Aldridge, M. jun. ditto
Aldridge, G. iiri. ditto
AUday, J. Carlifle- ftreet
Alliott, Rev. R. Nottingham
Alnutt, Mr. Cookham
Aked, W. Efq. Sheernefs
Amos, Mr. Colleirt -green, Briftol
Anderfon, A. Philpot-lane
Anderfon, R. Sloane-fquare
Andrevi-p, Mr. London
Anlezark, Rev R. Stockport
Annefley, M. Efq. Reading
Anfell, Mr. Sheernefs
Anfell, G.
Anfon, VV. J. 28, Aldgate
Anthony, INJr.
Antonie, Mrs. Hull
Antoniel C.ipta:',, Hull
Antrobur, J. 48, Wardour-fVreet
Appleby, W. Staiihope-ftreet
Arch, J. and A. Bookfellers, Lombard -ftreet,
7 copies
Archer, Captain, Bengal
Ardin. Mrs. Ti omhaugh-flreet
Ariel, VV. Briftol
Arkiey, J. Finfbuiy-place '
Amiiger, Mr. 33, Bow- lane
Armftrong, J. Staines
Arrel, J. Sheernefs
Arrow fmith, Mr. Charles-ftreet, Soho, 2 copies
Arthur, C. Efq. Bath
Aflivviiis, Mr. Northleach, Gloucefterfliire
Aftle, J. Windfor
Atkins, T- Market-ftreet, May-fair
Atkij-.fon, Rev. T. Ipfwich
Atkiiifon, J. Alderfgate-fl-eet
Atkinfon, Mr. Weeden
Atkinfon, L. Huddersfield
Ayfcough, Mr. Cripplegate
B.
Backler, Mr. Apothecaries' Hall
Badeley, S. 5, Fig-tree-court, Temple
Bailev, Mifs
Bailey, T. St. Paul's Church-yard
Bailev, B. Dravton
Baiky, \V. Hull
Baker, J. ¥Jq. Hyde-park
Ball, \Vm. Printer, Brownlow-ftrcet
Bail, J. Plymouth
Ballad, H. 73, Lonibard-ftreet
Banks, tir f. Pnfulciit of the Royal Society
Banks, J. Coicheftcr
Banks, , Efq. King-ftreet
Baniiler. Mr. fen. Briftol
Barr, Mrs. Orange-ftrtct
Barrett, Mr. Bath, a coj>ie»
Barrett, J. 7, Staining-lane
Barkley, R. E(q. Park-ftreet, Southwark
Barnard, G. Frampton, Gloiicefterfliire
Barnes, T. London
Bartlett, J. Paradife row, Hackney
'iartlett, R. Newport-market
Bateman, \V. Manchefter
Bateman, T. Manchefter
Bateman, Mr. Devonfliire-ftreet, Queen-lquare
Batley, B. i:,fq. Tooting
Batley, K. Efq Carflialton
Baxton, T. Efq. Leicefter
Bayley, E. Rotherhithe
Bay lie, W. Beaumont-buildings, New-road
Bayhs, VV. Stonehoufe
Bavlv, J. Plymouth
Beale, Mrs. Briftol
Beaufoy, Rev. Mr. Town-Sutton, Kent
Beaumont, Sarah, Huddersfield
Bedder, J. Bafing-lane
Beedle, [. 43, Eaft-ftreet, Manchefter-fquare
Becflev, Mrs. Tooting
Bell, Rev. G. V^'ooler
Bell, J. G. Uttoxeter
Bell, ]Mr. Leeds
Hell, Mrs. Swithin's-lane
Bellins, Mr. St. Peter's-hill
Bennett, Mr. Botolph-lane
Bentley, Mrs. Eflex-ftreet
Benwell, J. Efq. Batterfea
Bermen, J. V\'eel(by
Bernard, P. Efq. Southampton
Berrage, E. Hull
Betterton, J. Athorp, Gloucefterfliire
Bickiey, VV. 2, lierner's- ftreet
Bicknell, Rev. J. C. VVellford
Bicknell, T. Plymouth
Biddulph, Mrs.'Briftol
Biggerftaff, Mr. ien, Iflington
SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES.
Bilton, R. Hull
Binks, T. Durham
Binnie, A. Moiintflieet
Bird, J. 91, Bunhill-row
Bifliop, Rev. W. Glouccfter
Black, W. yamaica-row, Rotherhithe
Blackall, \V. 18, Bafuighall-ttreet
Blackniore, ]\Tr. Rocliefter
Bhckmore, JNIifs G. Wandfworth
Blake, W. Gof;)ort
Blake, J. ditto
Blake, Captaiti B. Lamb's Conduit-ftrcet
Blake, G. Botley, Hants
Bland, J. Gloucefter-ftreet, Qvicen's-fquarc
Blended, Mr. Sheernefs
Bloonifield, J. Bilderftoiie
Blvth, D. Langham
Bocking, J. Red Lion-ftreet, Holbora
Boggis, J. 4, Great Prefcott-ftreet
Bogiie, Rev. D. Gofport
Bodej y. Dalton
Bolton", W. Moiniton
Bonar, , Efq. DivimEy-hall, Edinburgh
Bon?r, J. Edinburgh
j3ond. Mif^, Frampton, Gloucefterfliire
Bodk Society, ^'eftry of Rev. T. Atkinfon
Booth, Mr. Rochefter
Bofwell, J. Gofport
Bourne, T. Melkdiam
Bourne, G. Efq. Hough
Boufe, H. 56, Pall-mall
Bovvden, Rev. J. Tooting
Bowden, J. Hull
Bowden, A. Cavvfand
Bowles, Mr. Briftol
Bowles and Carrington, St. Paul's Church-yard
Bowley, George, Bifliopfgate-ftreet
Bowman, Mr. Stroud, Kent
Bowman, Mr. Sheffield
Bowrie, Elizabeth, Edinburgh,
Bowyer, J. Efiq. Fall-mall,
Boyden, J. Chatham
Boys, J. Efq. Aflicomb, near Lewes
Bradley, Rev. R. Worcefter,
Bradlv, W. Architeft, Halifax
Bray,' Rev. W. P. Cawfand
Brand, W. Bofton, Lincolnfhire
Brazier, J. Efq. Camberwell
Brett, y. G. Efq. Fulneck
Brett, T. Efq Craig's-court, Charing-crofs
Brett, Mr. Wrenthmn
Brewer, Sainuel
Briant, Mr. Loudwater
Brice, Mrs. Southampton
Brice, Mifs, ditto
Bridges, Dr. Bath
Bright, J. Lieut, of Marines, Plymouth
2 copies
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Britton, Mr. Currier, Briftol
Broad, Mr. Rochefier
Brodbelt, Rev. Mr. Loudwater
Bromfield, J. Sheernefs
Brooks, J. Huddersfield
Brookes, H. Efq. Brighton
Brookes, J. Portfea
Brooks, J. Efq. Bedford-fquare
Brooks, R. 18, Glafshoufe-ftreet, BurUngton-
gardens
Brooklbank, Rev. J. Hoxton
Brough, Anthony, Efq.
Broughton, J. Tetney
Brown, Mrs. Antigua
Brown, T.
Brown, Mr. Brighton
Brown, Rev. E. Inrelkeithing
Brown, T. Weft-ftreet, Smithfield
Brown, G. Efq. Sun-court, Threadneedle-ftreet
Brown, Mr. Rochefter
Brown, J. 2, St. Mary's-hill
Browne, J. Rotherhitiae
Browne, W. Briftol
Brownfiekl, Rev. J. Whitbv
Brownlow, Mr. 68, Fleet-ftreet
Bruckfliaw, J. Bradbury, Stockport
Bryan, Mr. Newgate-ftreet
Bryfon,D. Phillip's ftreet, Tottenham-court-road
Buchan, Earl of
Buckland, J. Portfea
Buckler, Rev. Mr. a copies-
Buckley, J. Huddersfield
Bucknell, B. Efq. Richmond-hill, Bath
Budden, J. W. Poole
Bull, S. Hollis-ftreet, Caveudifli-fquare
Bull, J. Wandfworth
Bull, Mr. Bath
Bull, Rev. T. Newport Pagnel
Bullen, T. 8, Edward-ftreet, Bethnal-greeii
Burckhardt, Rev. Dr. London
Burder, Rev. G. Coventry
Burder, Rev. S. St. Alban's
Burt'ord, J. Peiuonville
Burjis, Mifs, Benfon, Bucks
Burley, Mr. VN'akcfield
Burn, A. Efq. Rochefter
Burroughs, Mr. Great Marlow
Bury, J. Hope hill, Stockport
Butcher, Mr. Spa- fields
Butler, W. Kidderminfter
Butler, Mrs. 1 7, Fleet-market
Butler, y. Efq. Caerleon, 2 copies
Butterworth, Mr. 43, Fleet-ftreet, 7 copies
Button, Rev. Mr. Pater-nofter-row
Buttrefs, J. Bath
SUBSCRIBERS' NAMP:S.
Buxton, A. London-ftreet
Byle.s, N. Ipfwich
By!es, J. ditto
Cabell, W. 49, Newin^^ton-place
Caldwell, Rev. Mr. Brighton
Calver, J. Woodbridge
Calvert, Mr. Leeds
Cairns, E. Birmingham
Campbell,}. Edinburgh, 4 copies
Campbell, R. St. Marv-le-bone
Campbell, W. Chertley
Campigne, Mr. 27, Pleafant-place, Iflington
Capel, VV. Efq. Stroud
Capper, J. Gracechurch-ftreet
Cardale, J. Stourbridge
Carlin, Mr. Tabernacle, Greenwich
Carpenter, Mr. Bath
Carter, W. Honey-lane-market
Carter, T. 25, Prefcott-ftreet
Carter, J. Hull
Cater, R. Bread-ftreet
Cayzer, G. jun. Plymouth
Chalmers, C. Efq. Lime-flreet
Chambers, J. Efq. Dublin
Champion, Mr. Gravefend
Chaplin, Mrs. Rochefter
Chapman, W. Frome
Chapman, J. Bungay, SutFolk
Charles, Rev. Mr. Bala
Chater, Mrs. Charles-ftreet, Long-acre
Chefliunt College Truflees
Chew, J.
Chew, Rev. Mr. Thrapfton
Churchill, Mrs. Nottingham
Clapham Reading Society
Clapham, F. Kighly
Clark, Mr. Strood, Kent
Clark, T.J. Havant
Clark, Mr. Bookfeller, Yarmouth, 2 copies
Clarke, J. Nevv'port, Ille of Wight
Clark, J. Efq. Bengal
Clark, W. 26g, Borough
Clark, E. ditto
Clark, Captain J.
Clavering Book Society
Cleeve, C. Bafini^ftoke
Clifton, G. Southwold, Suffolk
Clogftown, Mrs. Bath
Coad, Mifs, Clapham
Cobb, T. Eiq. Margate
Cock, A. H.
Colbatch, J. Brighton
Cole, Mr. Wemefliam
Cole, R. Ipfwich
Cole, T.
Colcott, W. Little Bell-alley
Coles, H.
Coles, Mr.
Coles, J.
Colgate, Mr. 27, CJouIfton-fquarc, Whitechapel
Collins, C. Spital-fquarc
Colli ni, Mr. Hull
Collinfon, J. Gravel-lane, Southwark
Commayer, C. St. Thomas's-fquare, Hackney
Conder, T. Bucklerlbury, ; copies
Conqueft, Mifs, Chatham
Conrad, Mr. Benthlain
Cook, \V. Farnham
Cook, Mr. Cannon-ftrcet
Cooke, Rev. J. Maidenhead, 7 copies
Cooke, J. jun. Rye
Cooper, Air. St. johirs-ftreet
Cooper, Mr. 1 1 7, Thames-ftrcet
Cooper, J. Church- ilrcet, Southwark
CopelanH, W. Abingdon
Cornewall, Mrs. Chard-park
Corlbie, J. London
Corlhic, J. Foreft-gate, Epping
Covell, H. Fini-ftrcet-hiU
Covell, Mifs, Walworth
Coventry, J. Redcrofs-ftreet, Southwark
Cowie, J. Efq. Futhe Ghur, India, 3 copies
Cowie, R. Efq. Highbury, 9 copies
Cowie, (t. Efq. Bury-court
Cowie, Mr. V\'alworth
Cox, Kcv y. H. Farehani ' 3 copies
Cox, H. London
Cox, J. Bream's buildings
Cox, S. London
Coxon, Mifs J. Howbalk
Crachnell, Rev. B. Wareham
Crea, J. Whiltingham
Crefwell, Mr. Fairfield
Crew, T. Poole
Cribben, Mr. Liverpool
Crouchcr, J. Haymrirket
Cuff, R. Londoa-briduc Water-works
Cumming, G. Efq. Godalming
Curbv, I'+z, Rattliff-highway
Curling, R. Efq. Torrington-ftrcet
Curling, J. London
Curling, j. jun. ditto
Curling W. ditto
Curling, E. ditto
Curling, J. Bermondfey-flreet
Curtis T. Efq. Hom.rton
Cutiibert, Ifabella
D.
Dadbv, R. Hadleftone
Daltoi), Mr. a8, Cheapfide
Dalgas, F. Size-lane
SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES.
Dalrvmple, , Efq.
Daniord, S. Pitfit-ld-ftreet, Hoxton
Dnncer, J. 32, Rofamoiid-ftictt, Clerkenwell
Daniel, S.. Colclieller
Darby, Mr. Bankfide, Southwark
Danvell, J. L. Elq. Southampton
Davis, Mr. Berkley- fqiiarc, Briftol
Davis, H. Kenfingtoii
Davis, S. Tooting
Davidfon, H. Woolwich
Davidl'on,;. Fifli-ftreet-hill
DaviCoii, k. Melkington
Davidfon, W. 28, C^ieen Ann-ftreet Eall
Davenport, E. i. Rood-lane
Dawfoit, Rlrs. Jeffries-fqiiare
Da« fon, P. 38, Goodge-ftreet
Dawfon, R. High-ftreet, Borough
Dearling, J. Chichefter
Dearling, Captain VV. Weymouth
Deet, Benjamin
Denhani, Rev. E. Walworth
Dennett, Captain T.
Dennant, Rev. J. Halftfworth
Derry, J. Plymouth
Dertmar, George
Devondiire, Mr. Stockwell
Dickie, T. Bow-lane
Dickenlbn, J. Hull
Dickfon, James
Dilly, C. Bookfelier, Poultry, 1 copies
Dimfdale, Dr. BiHiop's Stortfr.rd
DifTenters' Rpa*"-5 society, Great Wigfton
T>u.).ca, J. Pivmouth
Dixon, S. Pall'. mall
Dixon, Captain f.
Dodd, Captain ]".
Dodds, VV. Efo" Gofport
Donaldfon, R. Hull
Core, Rev. Mr. Walworth
Dove, W. Plymouth
Douglas, Rev. A. Reading
Douglas, D Efliiigton
Draper, T. Broker-row, Moorfields, 2 copies
Draper, S. 20, Colemrm-ftrcet
Dunn and Biggs, Bookfellers, Nottingham
Dunthorne, Jofeph, Clapham
Dunkje) , K." Little Eaftcheap
Dunkin, J. Jamaica-row, Bermondfey
Durie, D. Gravel -lane
Durant, Rev. G. Spital-fquare
Durant, Mrs. S. Guv's Hofpital
Duthoit, P. Efq. Highbury-place
Dyer, J. Efq. Greenwich '
Eagland, Mrs. E. Huddersfield
EarnQiaw, Mr. Wakefield
Eaftman, T. Portfea
Eaft, W. Woburn
Eaton, R. Three Brlck-ftreet, Piccadilly
Eddington, J. Earl-flreet, Blackfriars
Edmonds, Mr. Sheernefs
Edridge, H. 10, Dutfour's-place
Edwards, B. Efq. I\J.P. Great George-flreet
Eggington, G. Hull
Eggington, J. ditto
Eleii, , Efq. Banker
El:ar, Mr. Rocliefter
Elf -in, Mrs. M. 2, Rowland's-row, Stepney
Ellarv, IMr. Stroud
Elliutt, G. Spa-fields
Elliott, C. Long-acre
Elliotfon, G. Ciiemift, Southwark
Ellis, Richard
Ellis, J. Upper Rathbone-place
Englifli. Rev. T, Woburn
Erfliine, T. Efq. Sergeant's-inn
Er/kine, Captain, Diyburgh Abbey
Erfkine, Dr. Edinburgh
Erikine, Lady Anne, Spa-fields
Erfkine, Mrs. Scotland
Etheridge, S. Hoxton-fquare
Evans, Rev. R. Appledore
Evans, Mifs, Tooting
Eviil, George, Bath
Ewing, Rev. G. Edinburgh
Exall, J. Farnham, Surry
Eyre, Rev. John, Hackney
Eyre, William, ditto
Fallowfield, Mr. Scotland-yard
Farmer, R. Kennington, Surry
Farncombe, J. Stoneham, Suflex '
Farquhar, J. Efq. Kenfington
Farrar, J. \V'arley
Farrborough, J. Efq. Sydenham
FalTett, W. Ludgate-ftreet
Favell, S. Tooley-ftreet
Fauldtr, Mr. Bookfeller, Bond-ftreet, 7 copies
Fawcet, Rev. S. by Rev. J. Saitren
Fenn, J. Cornhill, 6 copies
Ferrers, Mr. Petticoat-lane
Ferrers, Mr. Alds;ate
Fiekl, Rev. H. STandford
Field, R. Bankfide
Filby and Son, Pilgrim-ftreet, Ludgate-hill
Filling, Mr. 393, bhadwell
Finley, E. Huil
Fiflier, Mifs, Stroudwater
Fiftiwick, Mr. Hull
Flettter, [. Abingdon
Fletcher, Mr. Sheernefs
Flower, R. Hertford
SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES.
Ford, J. Frome
Forfyth, W. Efq. Kenfington
Ford, Rev. George, Southwark
Ford, Mrs. Dath
Fofter, Rev. W. W) ke, near Halifax
Fofter, M. Hull
Fofter, E. ditto
Fofter, Captain, ditto
Foulds, H. Gainsforth-ftreet, Horfleydowa
Fowler, Rev. J. Shceniefs
Foyfter, S. Efq. Tottenham-flreet
Fox, E. Efq. Wadebridge
Frazer, A. Plymouth
Freeman, T. London-wall
Freeman, J. Millbank-ftreet, Weftminfter
Friar, Captain, Bengal
Friend at Hull
Friend, W. Newbery, Berks
Frofl, Mifs, 24, Aldermanbury
Gait(kell, W. Rotherliithe
Gage, Mrs. Bath
Gambier, Admiral
Gamon, Mr. Rochefter
Gardner, Robert, Tower-ftreet, 3 copies
Gardner, Rev. H. Southwoki, Suffolk
Gardner, Rev. T. Stratford-upon-Avon
Gardner, H. Bookfeller, Strand, 3 copies
Garthorn, Mr. Ems-hill
Garwood, Mr. 50, Manfel-ftreet
Garrard, Thomas
Caviller, G. New-road, St. George's
George, Mr. Tyler- ftreet, Carnaby-market
Gibfon, J. Efq. Dublin, 2 copies
Gibbons, Thomas, M. D. Hadlcy, Suffolk
Gibbons, J. Efq. Ofweftry
Gillifpie, jf. Carolina Cotfee-houfe
Gilder, John, Hull
Gillet, G. Efq. Guildford-flreet
Gillet, W. Deptford
Gilliam, Dr. 7 copies
Gilbert, T. Chatham
Giles, W. Peckham
Gimber, W. Admiralty
Glover, T. 3, Harris's-place, Oxford-ftreet
Glover, N. Little Britain
Glover, M. Uxbridge
Glafcott, Rev. Mr. Hatherley
Godfrey, J. 64, Taberiiacle-walk
Goddard, S. Ipfwich
GofF, E. Scotland-yard
Goodere, John, Gofport
Goodere, James, ditto
Goodwin, J. jun.
Goodhart, £. Efq.
Goodhart, E. jiuu
Good, Mr. corner of Gov's inn-lane
Goode, Rev. Mr. Jllingto'u
Goodwin, Mr. Leek, Staffordfliirc
Gomicliild, W. jun. Ijjfwich
Golding, G. by Rev. J. Saltren
Golding, J. by ditto
Golding, Rev. Mr. Croydon, 7 copies
Gordon, A. Efq.
Gordon, A. London
Gordon, Captain P.
Gofiicll, S. Printer, Little Qucen-ftreet, Holbom
Goflling, R. Shacklewell
Golller, J. N. Hamburgh
Govier, H. Ivy-lane, Newgate-ftrect
Gouger, G. 48, Newgate- (treet
Graves, E. Sun-tavern-ficlds
Graves, J. Qucenhithe
Gray, J. Kingdand
Green, E. Efq. Lcicefter
Green, Rev. R. Hull
Grecnway, J. Efq. Stoke, near Plymouti\
Greenway, Captain W.
Greenwood, J. Kighlcy
Grellett, F. Efq. Camomile-ftreet
Gregory, Mr. Shecrnefs
Gregory, J. Hoxton-fields
Gregory, Mr. Brigiiton
Greathced, Rev. S. Newport Pagnel
Gribble, T. Bank-ftock-oflice
Griffin, Rev. J. Portfca
Griflin, Mrs.
Griffin, Mr.
Griffith, J. Caermarthen
Grimfby, W. Stowmarket
Gripes, J. Kingfland
Grove, J. Efq. Sloane-ftreet, Chelfea
Grocock, Mr. Kenfington
Grundy, T. Horfeferry-road, Weflminfter
Guellonneau, Mr. Pope's-head-allcy
Guge, S. Portfea
Gun, Mr. 24, Aldermanbury
Grant, C. Efq. India-houfe
Gwennap, J. jun. Falmotith
H.
Haldane, R. Efq. Edinburgh
Hail, J. Bath
Halcv, C. Efq. Wigmore-flreet
Hall,' , Efq. Banker
Hall, Mr. Attorney
Hall, Thomas
Hall, T. Hull
Halletr, by Rev. J. Saltren
Halftead Librarv, Effex
Hale, W. 4, W'ood-ftreet, Spiulfields
Hamilton, R. Sloane-ftreet
Hamilton. J. M. D. .Artillery -plate
3»
SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES.
Hammond, G. Whitechapel
Hancifield, J. Lieut. Royal Engineers
Hanbury, Mr. King-ftreet, Weftminfter
Hanfon, E. Efq.
Haiifiar, Mr. Round-court, Strand
Hardcaftle, Jofeph, Efq. London
Hardacre, R. Stepney-caufeway
Hare, J. 24, Park-lane
Harvy, T. Plymouth
Hanvood, S. Battisford-hall, Suffolk
Harper, Hon. Lady F. Park-flreet
Hartley, Rev. J. Fulneck, Leeds
Harper, M. Norwich
Harper, A. Jerufalem CofFee-houfe
Hnrdie, IMr. Bookfeller, Bolfover-ftreet
Harvey, Lady C.
Harvey, W. London
Harman, INIrs. Bath
Harris, J. Plymouth
Harris, W. Manchefler
Hnnies, Rev. W. Stroudvvater
Harrifon, T. Fetter-lane
Hafiie, H. London
Haliie, F. ditto
HattoM, Mr. Stroud, Kent
Haven, R. Efq. Doniland-hall, Colchefter
HauxH-ell, W. Hull
Hawes, B. Colchefter
Hawkes, T- Piccadilly, 8 copies
Havvkcs, Mifs, Lutterworth
Havveis, Rev. Dr. Aldwiiikle
Hayter, T. Gofport
Haycroft, T. Broadway, Deptford
Haynian, 1 homas, London
Hazard, Mr. Bath
Heaton, C. 14, Millman-ftreet, Bedford-row
Heath, Rev. R. Rod borough
Hedger, J. Efq. Weft-fquare
Heene, Mr. Hoxton-fquare
Henderfon, J. 61, Broad -flreet
Hetherington, T. Reading
Hewfon, J.
Hicks, Mrs.
Hide, W. Patriot-fquare, Bethnal-green
Hill, Rev. Rowland, London
Hill, W. Manchefter
Hill, Mr. 5, Delaney-place ■
Hill, S. 2, Stone-buildings, Lincoln's-inn
Hill, |.
Hi!ls,MifsC. Colchefter
Hillock, J. Hull
Hirft,J. Huddersfield
Hobbs, Rev. Mr. Colchefter
Hobbins, S. Yarmouth
Hobbert, Mifs, Denmark-hill
Hodgfon, Mr. Mark-lane
Hodgfon, G. Duck's-foot-Iane
Hogg, P. Long-lane, Smithfield
Hogg, Rev. Mr. Thrapftoii
Holehoufe, C. Borough
Holt, J. jun. Whitby
Holman, Francis, London
Holland, T. Efq. 146, Drury-lane
Holy, T. Sheffield
Honeyman, J. Spital-fields
Hooten, Mr. Falmouth
Hooper, J. Ramfgate
Hooper. J. Efq. Greenwich
Hooper, D. Margate
Hopps, W. Cannon-ftreet
Hopkins, Rev. W. Chriftchurch
Hopkins, R. Chriftchurch
Horton, J. Lawrence Pountney-lane
Hovell, T. 6, VVorfhip-frreet
Houghton, J. Huddersfield
Hough, S. Efq. Taviftock-ftreet, Bedford-fquare
Houfton, Mr. Great St. Helen's
Houghton, J. Efq. Liverpool, 3 copies
Howfe, Samuel, Bath
Howard, Mifs E. Bafingftoke
Howard, J. Stockport
Howard, J. Old-ftreet
Howard, T. Shoe-lane
Hubbard, Z. Melkfliam
Hufi^am, Chriftopher, London
Hughes, Rev. Mr. Batterfea .
Humphreys, Mr. near Briftol
Humphreys, Rev. Mr. Newington Butts
Humpage, Mr. Surgeon, Stroud
Humber, T. Brighton
Hunt, J. Southwoid, Suffolk
Hunter, Henry, D. D. Hoxton
Hutchen, Mr. 25, Coleman-ftreet
Hutton, Alderman, Dublin
Hutton, Rev. Mr. Buckingham
I- J-
Jack, J. St. Martin's-lane
Jackfon, H. 32, Paternofter-row
Jackfon, J. Portfea
Jackfon, S. 68, Lombard-ftreet
Jackfon, J. jun. 20, Tottenham-court-road
James, Mr. Clare-ftreet, Briftol
James, S. Bankfide, Borough
James, Sir W. Bart. Blackheath
Jamifon, J. Cecil-ftreet, Straj\d
Jarrold^^J. Woodbridge
Jay, Rev. W. Bath
JeitVcys, D. Efq. Tooting
Jefrerfon, Rev. J. Bafingftoke, 2 copies
Jennings, Mr. Queen-ftreet, Cheapfide
Jenkins, Mr. Briftol
Jenkins, Mr. E. Bath
SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES.
Jerram, Rev. C. Long Sutton, a copies
Illingworth, J. Frith -llreet, Soho
Inglis, J. Maik-lane
lanes, H. ECq. Taviftock-flreet
Innes, J. Efq. Laytou
Joad, George, London
Johnfon, John, Huddersfield
Johnfon, j. Toxhall, near Woodbridge
Johnfon, Mr. Wakefield
Johnfon, Mr. St. Paul's Church-yard, 14 copies
Johnfon, J. Wakefield
Johnfton, Mrs. Reading
Jones, Rev. J. Dock
Jones, Mr. Charlotte-ftreet, Bloomfbury
Jones, Mr. Crown-ftreet, Finftiur)'-fquare
Jones, P. 23, Charlotte-ftreet, Bedford-fquare
Jones, Rev. Mr. Iwleck
Jones, W. Bookfeller, Liverpool
Jones, J. Newgate-ftreet
Jones, R. Liverpool
Jones, J. Efq. Hull
Jones, Sufanna, Mile End
Jones, T. High-ftreet, Borough
Irons, Mrs. CHatham
K.
Kanmacher, IMr. Apothecarles'-hall
Keates, Robert
Kelly, Rev. T. Dublin
Kemp, G. Kingfland-road
Kemp, Mr. Poole
Kendrick, Mrs. Stroiidw.iter
Kennion, J. Nicholas-lane
Kerfy, P. Moneydew-hall, Suffolk
Kidd', Rev. A. C'ottingham
Kilvington, Mr. Bankfide
King, P. Efq.
King, Mr. Sheernefs
King, P. Efq. Camberwell-green
King, D. 9, Rodney-buildings, Kent-road
King, Mrs. 8, George-lane, Eaftcheap
Kinglburv,'Rev. W. Southampton
Kinlinde,' Mrs. Bath
Kincaid, D. Kingfland-road
Kirkpatrick, J. Ille of Wight
Kirkpatrick, J. Sutton Aflifield
Kitchener, Mr. Bury St. Edmond's, 2 copies
Knight, Rev. J. A. Somers-town
Knight, J. 12, Great St. Andrew's-flreet
Knies, A. Efq.
Knott, Mr. Lombard -ftreet
Knowles, James, Huddersfield
Lacy, W. Stroudwater
Ladewig, Mr. Rothcftsr
Lavid, J. Glafgow
Lake, Rev. J. Kenfington
Lam, Rev. J. by Rev. J. Saltren
Lambert, G. Hull ,
Lambert, A. Efq. Leaden hall -ftreet
Lambert, C. Efq. Bengal
Lane, W. Wood-ftreet, Cheapfidc
Langworth, J. Bofton, Lincolnniire
Langworth, Elizabeth, Bofton
Langworthy, Mrs. Lambcth-marfli
Langrton, W. Efq. Highbury-place
Landfeer, Mr. Queen Anne-ftreet Eaft, 3 copin
Lafhmore, R. Brighton
Latrobe, Rev. C. Kirby-ftreet
Lavington, Rev. S. Biddeford
Law, C. Bookfeller, Ave Maria-lane
Lawfon, Mr. Sheernefs
Lee, E. Highbury
Lee, J. Borough
Legge, R. Wind for
Legg, S. Fleet-ftreet, 7 coplM
Leggatt, Mrs. W^renthani
Leigh, Sir E. Bart. Little Harborough
Lepard, B. Stationer, James-llreet, 7 copi»
Lefter, Mr.
Lever, , Efq. Newington-caufeway
Levett, N. Hull
Levett, W. ditto
Lewis, W. Taviftock-ftreet
Library of Allbciated Congregation, Wooler
Little, Rev. R. Hanley, Staffordfliire
Little, T. Efq. Wigmore-ftreet
Little, T. 32, Edward-ftrett, Portnian-fquarc
Littler, R. City-road
Livius, G. Efq. Bedford
Liverpool Library
Lloyd, N. Uley
Lobb, J. W. Efq. Southampton
Lock, Mrs. A. Plymouth
Locke, , Efq. Taunton
Locke, W. Efq. Devizes
Lomas, J. Colebrook-row, Iflington
Lomas, W. Manchefter
Lovell, Mifs, Bilhopfgate- ftreet
Lowell, Rev. S. Woodbridge
Lowell, Mifs, Woodbridge
Lowder, Dr. Bath
Lucas, J. Efq. Tooting
Luck, Mr. Carpenters'- hall
Luckman and Suffield, Coventry
Ludlow, Mrs. Cannon-court, Briftol
Ludlow, Mifs, Devizes
Ludlow Book Society
Lufon, Captain, Sheernefs
M.
Maccleifield, Earl of
3 I 2
SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES.
Mackie, Captain Aintrevv, i 5, Bing-ftreet
Mackell, J. Park-lane
M'Kie, J. Efq. Palgown, Suffolk
M'Gall, Captain J..
M'Melcan, Lieut. Col. Royal Engineers
M'Dowall, P. p-almoutli
Maddifon, J. Poft-office
iNIaggett, J. Bookfeller, Wakefield
Maftland, J. Efq. Bafinghall-ftreet
Maitland, R. El'q. King's- arms-yard
Maitland, J. Efq. ditto
Maitland, A. Efq. King's- road
Maltby, T. Efq. Mary-le-bone
Manii^ J. Moretonhampltead, Devon
Manchefter, Ifaac
i\Iang\', N. Efq. Plymouth
Mangles, J. 20, Change-alley
Mander, J. Wolverhampton
Mantell, Rev. G. Weftbury
Mansfield, J. R.
Martin, Mr. 78, John's-ftreet
Martin, A. Efq. Banker
Marfland, P. Stockport
Marfliall, S. Sheffield
Marriatt, W. Hoxton-fquare
Mather, G. Stockport
Mather, J. Maiichefler
Mather, Mrs.
Matthews, J. Strand, 3 copies
Mattravers, Mrs. Weftbury
IMatNvin, Rev. H. Dublin
Maurice, Rev. W. London- road
Mayer, Catharine, Leadenhall-ftreet
Ma'ylefton, Mr.
Maze, J. Winchefter-ftreet
Mecham, Mr. King's-arms-yard
Madgwick, E. Charles-fquare
Medley, G. Newington-place
Medley, R. 6, Lambeth-terrace
Meech, J. Efq. Reading, Berks
Meech, T. Efq. Cold Harbour, Weflbury
Meldrum, D. I'ri rice's- ftreet. Bank
Mells, A. Efq. Finch-lane
Mendz, Rev. H. Plymouth
Merfey, Mr. Long-acre
Meyer, J. Leadenhall-flreet
Middleton, Mr. i. Chancery -lane
Middleton, Sir C. Bart.
Milbourne, A. Southwold, Suffolk
Miles, J. Foulmere
Millard, T. J.
Miller, R. Weymouth
Minchin, T. Gofport
Minchin, J. A. Efq. ditto
Mitchell, John, M. D. near Stockport
Mitchell, Mrs. Chriftchurch
Molefworth, Mr. Birmingham
Montague, Lady
Monev, Mr. Somers-town
Mond's, T. W.
Moody, Rev. J. Warwick
Moore, Rev. G. Stroud, Kent
Morfe, Mr. Sheernefs
Morgan, Mrs. Bell-yard
Morgan, Mr. Strou J, Kent
Morefs, G. Portfea
Moreland, Rlr.
Morland, W. Old-ftreet
Morris, J. Manchefter
Morris, ftlr, Camberwell
jNIorrifon, Mr. Tottenham-place
Mount, Mrs. Iflington
INIoyes, W. Kingfland
Murray, Rev. A. Nelburgh, N. B.
Mufgrove, Mr. London
Mufton, Rev. C. Ayton
Myers, Mifs, 4, Tooley- ftreet
N.
Napier, W. London
Napier, J. Huddersfield
Neale,J.Efq. St. Paul's Church-yard, iS copies
Neale, Mifs, Luton ^
Neale, J. Aylelbury
Nelfon, J. Park- lane
Newton, Rev. John, London
Newton, Henry, London
Newton, Mr. W. Dartford, Kent
Newman, J.
Newfon, Mr. W. Wrentham
Newbald, R. Vauxhall
Neucombe, Mr. Stroudwater
NicoU, Rev. W. Edgeware-road
Nichols, S. Bath
Nicholfon, J. Plymouth
Nicklin, Mrs. Hanover-buildings, Southampton
Nicklin, S. i, Aldgate
Nightingall, J- Rochefter
Noble, C. Down-ftreet, Piccadilly
Nobbs, J. 106, Fenchurch-flreet
Noeth, Valentine
Nokes, Mr. Kent-road, Newington
Norris, Mifs, Eftex-ftreet
North, J. Efq. Portfea
Nutter, Mr. Somers-town
O.
Ogle, Mr. Bookfeller, Glafgow, 14 copies
Ogle, J. Bookfeller, Edinburgh, 28 copies
Oldham, C. Efq. Holborn
Orance, W. Plymouth
Ormerod, Rev. Richard, A. M. Vicar of Ken-
lington
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P.
Pack, J. Hull
Palmer, J. Air-ftreet, Piccadilly
Palmer, VV. Efq.
Parr, W. Plymouth
Parfons, Rev. E. Leeds
Parfons, C. Frome
Parfons, J. Bookfeller, Pater-nofter-row, 2 copies
Parfons, T. Taunton
Partridge, Mr. Stroudwater
Parkes, S. Palace-row, Tottenham-court
Parker, Mifs E. Coventry
Particular Bapt. Society Newport Pagnel, a cop.
Pattifon, J. Coggefliall, Elfe-x
Paton, J. JNIontrofe
Paul, J. D. JNIettingham-caftle, SufTolk
Payne, J.
Peacock, R. Montagu e-clofe, Southwark
Pearfon, Mr. Steel-yard, Thames-ftreet
Pedder, Mr. Copper-plate Printer
Peifley,G. i3,Chapel-flreet, South Audley-ftreet
Pellatt, A. Newgate ftreet
Pember, W. Brunfwick-fquare, Briftol
Pentycrofs, Rev. T. Wallingford
Penfold, Mr. Plymouth-dock
Perram, Mrs. C'heflnmt
Perkins, Mr. Cawfand
Perfwant, Mr. Devoiifliire-fqiiare
Perth Society
Pewfey, Mr. Newport Pagnel
Phene, Mr. Ramfay
Phene, N. Little Moorgate
Phene, Rev. P. Yarmouth
Phillips, Charlotte-ftreet, Surry-road
Phillips, T. Surry-place
Phillips, N. 74, Lombard-ftreet
Phipps, L Weftbury Leigh
Phipps, W. ditto
Pickin, W. Efq. VVhitmore
Pidgeon, J. Corfliam
Piercv, R. Bed worth
Pinder, S. Falcon-fquare
Pinhey, R. L. Plymouth-dock
Pirfon, J- Hemel Hempftead
Pitkeathlev, R. Taviftock-ftreet, 7 copies
Plant, INIifs, Finlbury-place
Piatt, Rev. W. F. Holywell-mount
Piatt, John, Huddersfield
Plummer, T. Efq. Peckham
Polworth, J. Buckingham-gate
Poiifett, Mr. Hackney
Poole, Mr. St. Giles's
Popjov, T- Frome
Popjoy, N. 9, Caflie-ftreet, Borough ^
Popplewell, J. Hull
Popplewell, Shepherd, HuU
Porter, Mr. Thrapfton
Potticar\', Rev. J. Newport, Ifle of Wight
Powis, Mifs E. Crofs-ftreet, Ncwington-butt*
Prentice, M. Stowmarket
Prentice, S. Bungay, Suffolk
Prefton, T. Miles's-lane
Prcfton, Mrs.
Prefcott, Mifs, Old-ftreet-road
Pretyman, Mr. Towcr-ftreet
Pricharil, W. Bookfeller, Derby, 3 copies
Pritt, W. Wood-ftrcet, Cheapfide
Princep, Mr. Leadcnhall-ftreet
Prieftley, Rev. W. Deal
Profit, A. London
Pullen, E. I i;. Tabernacle-walk
Purdue, J. Excife-oflice
Pyrke, J. 404, Strand, a copies
R.
Rainier, J. Hackney
Ralph, J. T. Swithin's-lane
Ramfden, H. Brook-ftreet, Holborn
Raney, Captain L
Rankin, Thomas
Rathburne, A. Manchefter
Rawlings, T. Efq. I'adftow
Rawfon, Mr. Nottingham
Rav, J. Wcodbridge
Ray, Rev. J.RL Sudbury
Ravbout, Mr.
Reading Society at Kidderminftcr
Reed, Mary
Renton, J.Hoxton-fields
Renard, INIr. 22, Devonfliire-ftreet
Reynolds, Rev. J. Hoxton-fquare
Rc'vner,J. Shacklewell, 2 copio
Rhodes, Mrs. 54, Upper John-ftreet
Rickworth, Mrs. Kighlcy
Richards, Rev. J. Hull
Rider, Mrs. INIary, Reading, 2 copies
Rino, Mr. Reading
Rivington,Meir. St. Paul's Church-yard, 7Copies
Rix, N. Blunderftone
Robv, Rev. W. Mancheder, 4 copiei
Robmfon, S. Efq. Surry-ftreet, Blackfnars
Robinfon, J. Hull
Robinfon, Rev. J. Lciccftcr, 2 copies
Roberts, Mr. jun. Spa-fields
Roberts, INIr. Forc-ftreet
Roberts, J. W.
Roberts,]. Efq. Huddersfield
Roberton, Mr. Wooler
Roffev, Mrs. Lincoln's-inn- fields
Roocis, Elizabeth, Abingdon
Rohleder, Conrad, Charles-ftreet, Mile-end
Rofs, A. Aberdeen
Rofb, Mr. Bengal
Rofs, Mr. Rocheftcr
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Rotton, G. Frome
Rotluvell, Mr. Manchefter
Kowes, Mifs, Caernmrthen
Row, Mr. Kingiland
Rouell, W. jun. Greenwich
lliidge, Mr. SiroucI
Rugg, H. vSt. Paul's Church-yard
Rult, W. Hull
Ruirell, R. Kirkcaldy, N. B.
Ryland, Rev. John, D. D. Briftol
S.
Sabine, Rev. J. Uley
Sabine, W. Jilington
Sackett, H. Rothcrhithe
Saddington, T. 147, Miiiories
Sael, G. Bookfeller, Strand, 7 copies
Saffray, Rev. Mr. Saliibiiry
Saint(bury,J. Bear-ftr. Blackfriars-road, 7 copies
Saltrep, Rev. J. Bridporf, 8 copies
Sampfon, S. 55, Bread-ftreet
Sanders, S. Worcefter
Savill, J. London
Savage, J. Kingfland
Savage, S. Bethnal-green-road
Saunders, J. Plymouth
Scalcherd, T. Hull
Scholfield, Mr.
Schneider, J. H. Bow-lane
Schneider, J. Holborn
Schoolbred, J. Efq. Mark-lane
Scott, S. Bungay
Scott, Mr. Deptford
Scott, John, 63, Cornhill
Scott, J. Efq. Bengal
Scott, Rev. J. Matlock
Scott, D. Efq. India-houfe
Seares, Mrs. Worcefter- ftreet, Southwark
Sealing, T. Hull
Sedcoie, Rev. W. Swanage, near Poole
Self, J. Efq. Trowbridge
Sell,E.Bankfide
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Serle, A. Efq. Tranfport- office, 3 copies
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Shaw, B. Efq. Lavender-hill, Surry
Shaw, T. Stoke Newington
Shaw, Mr. Wilftead-ftreet, Sonners-town
Shaw, J. Counter-ftreet, Borough
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Sheppard, J. Efq. Lambeth
Sheppard, Rev. W. Wrentham
Shenftone, W. Standyford, Wolverhampton
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Shepherd, Mr, Hull
ShirrefF, R. Efq. Leith
Shirreff, A. Pancras-lane
Shrubfole, E. Efq. Sheernefs, Kent
Shrubfole, VV. Old-ftreet-road
Shrimpton, Mifs, Gioucefter-terrace
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Shurlock, B. Farnham
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Simkins, J. Frome
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Sloper, Rev. Mr. Plymouth
Sloper, Rev. R. Devizes
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Small, Rev. James, Axminfter
Smith, Rev. W. Biddeford
Smith, G. Lovel's-court, Pater-nofter-row,
2 copies
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Smith and Son, Howden, Yorkfliire
Smith, W. B. 5, Crooked-lane
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Smith, J. Efq. Bradford, Wilts
Smith, Mr. Pitt-ftreet, St. George's-fields
Smith, J. Glafgow
Smith, Mr. Newgate-ftreet
Smith, T. Margaret- ftreet
Smith, W. Green Park-ftreet, Bath
Smith, Mr. Hoofe-ftreet, Bath
Smith, J. G. Brewer-ftreet, Bath
Smith, O. Weftfield-houfe, Bath
Smith, J. Gutter-lane
Smithers, H. Efq. Wandfworth
Snowden, John, M. D. Stroud
Somerville, Rev. J. Branftou
Southern, A. Wiikersfield
Southgate, Mifs, 9, Hatton -garden
Stagg, ^lifs
Stevens, T. Bildeftone
Sterne, Mr. Sheernefs, Kent
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Stewart, W. Manchefter
Stewart, R. Manchefter
Steptoe, P. Thorpe
Stewart, Dr. Phyfician, Edinburgh, 2 copies
Steven, Rev. J. Thornhaugh-rtreet
Stevenfon, J.jun.
Stevens, Rev. W. Bingley, Yorkfliire
Stevens, W. Three Crown-court, Borough
Stephens, Sir P. Admiralty
Steel], R. Efq. Finibury-fquare
Steell, R. G. lllington
Steell, Lieut, G. Madras, India
Stiff, T. 13, New-ftreet, Covent-garden
Stokes, Martin, Chriftcliurch
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Stonham, D. Rye
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Strange, J. Bifliopfgate-ftreet
Strange, W. ditto
Stuart, C. Efq. M. D. Edinburgh, 2 copies
Sturgefs, Mr. Sheernefs
Studd, Mrs. E. Woodbridge
Studd, Captain Edward
Styring, \V. Huddersfield
Such, Rev. J. Brentwood
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Sundius, C.Efq. Fenchurch-flreet
Sutcliif, Mr. Stroud, Kent
Symes, J. by Rev. J. Saltren
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Spencer, J. Taplow
Spencer, F.
Spicer, S. Portfea
Sprads, P. Biihop's-court, Old Bailey
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Tabor, R. Colchefter
TafFs, J. Chatham
Tagg, J. 1 18, Wood-ftreet, Cheapfide
Tawk, Mifs, Dulwich
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Thompfon, Captain W. Chriftchurch
Thompfon, Mr. Berkley-fquare, Briftol
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Tizafd,"E. Chriftchurch
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Tompkins, J. ditto
Totman, Mifs E. Halftead
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Townfend, W. 325, Holborn
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Tozer, Rev. J. Taunton
Tripp, S. Briftol
Tripp, J. ditto
Trotter, Rev. J. D. D. Hans-place, Sloane-ftreet
Truro, P. 7 copies
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Turpie, J. Gre.ii Sutton-ftreet
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U.
Underbill, Mrs.
Underwood, Mr. Butt-lane, Deptford
Upper Oflbry, Earl of
Van Shirndling, Baron, Saxony
Van Alphen, Madam, Harengcftiet
\'andcrkemp, Dr. Hague
Varley, R.
Vcnables, W. Woburn, Bucks
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Vyfe, J. Eaton
W.
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Wakeman, Mrs.
Waiftall, C. Holborn
Walker, Mrs.
Walker,J Efq. Clifton
Walker, 1. Efq. Afton
\Valker, T. Efq. X'.int-njank
Walker, J. tfq. Fcrham
Walker, Rrv. Mr. Dublin
Walcot, T- Eu) Grc-.r\wicli
Wallach," W. Kingiland
W^alter, Mr. Foggs, Ireland
Waltham, Rev. J. Icklefofd, Hert»
Wathen, R. Walfall
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Wathen, J. Efq. Kenfington
Watkins, Rev. Mr. Greville-ftreet
Warren, , Efq. Kentifli-tovvn
Wardland, Mr. Edinburgh
Watkins, J. Lamb's Conduit.'ftreet, y copies
Watfon, G. Saxlingliam, Norfolk
Watfon, S. ^wanland
Waugh, Rev. A. Saiilbury-place
Waylen, R. jun. Devizes
Way, J. Efq. Lincoln- inn-fields
Waymouth, H. Efq. Batterfea
Webfter, D. London
Webber, J. Efq. Bnrrow's-buildings
Webb, J. Printer, Bedford
Webfter, J. St. John's, Bungay
W'ede, Mr.
Wede, J.
Weeks, J. fen. Chillarton
Weir,^. H. Efq. Craigie-hall
W'ellman, Mifs, Taunton
Wellman, Mifs R. ditto
Wellnrian, T. Efq. Poundsford-port
Wells, N. near Bofton
Weft, IMr. Gravefend
Weft, Rev, G. Stoke
Weftland, J. Buxton
W'eftley, J. Surry-rnad
Weybridge, F. Millbank-flreet
Wight, G. Bunhill-row
Wilkie, J. Efq. Walthamftow
^^■iIkinfon, IMrs. Snow -hill
Wickenden, IMr. 78, Cornhill
M'iikinfon, T. JManchefter
Wilkinfon, W. Tabernacle-row
Wilkinfon, Rev. Mr. Leicefter, 3 copies
Wilks, Rev.M. Old-ftreet-road
Willack, W. KingOand
Williams, J. Efq. Futte Ghur, India
Williams, Rev. E. Rotherham
Williams, Lieut. Col. Royal Cornifli
\N'ills, T. Briftol
Wilmhurft, f. Reading
V\'ilniot, Mrs. Bath
Wilmot, B. High-ftreet, Borough
Wilkins, Rev. J. ^
Wilfon, J. Kn'iglitfbridge
Wilfon, Mr. Woolbridge
Wilfon, J. Efq. Milk-flreet, Cheapfide
Wilfon, D. Hull ^'
Wilfon, R. Hanley
Wilfon, G. Clapton
Wilfon, W. Charles-fquare
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Wilfon, J. Middlewich
Wilfon, J. Brewer-ftreet, Golden-fquare
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Winkworth, Rev. W, St. Saviour's, Southwark
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White, Captain C. Futte Ghur, India
Whittaker, F.
Whittaker, D. Hackney
Whitfield, Rev. Mr. Hampflerly
White, E. Winbourn, Dorfet
Whittuck, J. Briftol
Whittenbury. J. Efq, Fulvvorth-Iodge
Whitchurch, S, Bath
Whittingbam, Rev. R. Everton
Wood, Mr. Stroudwater
Wollin, Mr, Fetter-lane
Wood, J. 55, Minories
Wood, Rev. J. Rowell, Northamptonfliire
Wood, Mrs. Colchefter
Wood, S. Efq. Brighton
Wolfe, Mr. Haymarket
WolfFe, G. Efq. America-fquare
Wood, C. Manchefter
Woodham, S. Feltham
Woodhoufe, D. Redcrofs-ftreet
Woodman, W. 43, Bermondfey-flreet
Worley, Mr. Cheapfide
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Wright, W. ^
Wright, W. Borough
Wright, J. Leather-lane
Wright, Mr, fen. Prefcot-ftreet
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Wygram, W. Brighton
Yockney, S. Bedford-ftreet, Covent-garden
Young, J, Bear-fl:reet, Leicefter-fquare
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