n 
 
 \ 
 

 
 MODEL YACHTS AND MODEL 
 YACHT SAILING.
 
 BOOKS OF INSTRUCTION AND AMUSEMENT. 
 
 THE BOY'S OWN TOY MAKER: 
 
 A Practical Illustrated Guide to the useful employment of Leisure Hours. 
 By E. LANDELS. With 200 Cuts. Ninth Edition. Price 2s. 6d. 
 
 " A new and valuable form of endless amusement." Nonconformist. 
 
 " We recommend it to all who have children to be instructed and amused." 
 
 Economist. 
 
 THE GIRLS OWN TOY MAKER 
 
 AND BOOK OF RECREATION. 
 
 By E. and A. LANDELS. With 200 Illustrations. New Edition. The 
 Eleventh Thousand. Just ready. Price 2s. 6d. 
 
 "Contains a large number of engravings, and gives instruction, with many exam- 
 ples, how to make Paper Toys, &c., &c. , in which young people especially take 
 interest. " Leeds Mercury. 
 
 " Within the past few years great advancement has been made in the educational 
 system it is meant to encourage, and it is, therefore, all the more likely to obtain a 
 still wider circulation." Edinburgh Daily .Review. 
 
 " Capital little volume . . . will be found a rare prize for families." City Press. 
 
 " We can easily imagine the delight with which a family of children would welcome 
 this interesting work." Scholastic World. 
 
 THE ILLUSTRATED 
 
 PAPER MODEL MAKER; 
 
 Containing Twelve Subjects and Practical Diagrams for their 
 Construction, in an Envelope. Price 23. 
 
 GRIFFITH & FARRAN, 
 
 WEST CORNER OF ST. PAUL'S CHURCHYARD, LONDON. 
 E. P. DUTTON & CO., NEW YORK.
 
 SAILS, a a mainsail. 
 b b topsail. 
 cc foresail. 
 <t<tjib. 
 
 ( a mainmast. 
 MASTS [ * topmast 
 c bowsprit. 
 d main boom. 
 egaff. 
 
 /foresail boom. 
 g jib boom. 
 h bobstay. 
 
 z mainrigging (port or left 
 side). 
 
 j hull. 
 k false keel. 
 / lead keel. 
 in counter. 
 sternpost. 
 o stem. 
 
 p self-acting rudder, only used 
 when running. 
 
 LATERAL VIEW OF 3-FT. YACHT (f inch to the foot). 
 For deck outline and measurement of this Model " Diana " Cutter, see diagram 8, p, 19.
 
 MODEL YACHTS 
 
 AND MODEL YACHT SAILING. 
 
 HOW TO BUILD, RIG, AND SAIL 
 A SELF-ACTING MODEL YACHT. 
 
 BY 
 
 JAMES E. WALTON, V.M.Y.C. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED WITH FIFTY-EIGHT ENGRAVINGS. 
 
 GRIFFITH AND FARRAN, 
 
 SUCCESSORS TO NEWBERY AND HARRIS, 
 
 WEST CORNER OF ST. PAUL'S CHURCHYARD, LONDON. 
 
 E. P. BUTTON AND CO., NEW YORK. 
 
 MDCCCLXXX.
 
 \The rights of Translation and of Reproduction are reserved^
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 PREFACE . . . . . . . . . .11 
 
 INTRODUCTION .15 
 
 CHAP. I. PRINCIPLES OF SELF-ACTING MODEL YACHT 
 
 BUILDING 21 
 
 ,, II. How TO MAKE THE HULL . . . -31 
 III. How TO MAKE DECK FITTINGS, RUDDER, &c. . 47 
 IV. How TO FIT MASTS, STANDING AND RUNNING 
 
 GEAR, &c . - 5 7 
 
 V. How TO MAKE THE SAILS AND SET THEM . 73 
 
 VI. How TO SAIL AND STEER A MODEL YACHT . 85 
 
 MATERIALS FOR MODEL SHIPS . . . . . -97 
 
 GLOSSARY 100 
 
 MODEL YACHT CONTESTS ON THE SEA .... 102 
 TABLES OF MODEL YACHT REGATTAS . . . .103 
 WATERS IN LONDON FOR MODEL YACHT SAILING . .104
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 
 
 THERE are not many open-air amusements which afford 
 more genuine enjoyment to old and young than Model 
 Yacht Sailing; if practised in a properly scientific 
 manner it resembles a game of croquet, in which 
 the water is the lawn, the wind the mallet, and the 
 ships the balls ; and the most skilful yachtsman is 
 as certain of winning his match as is the most skilful 
 croquet player. 
 
 Very few English boys can be found who have not 
 taken, or do not take an interest in model ships, and 
 it is very remarkable, as well as no little disgrace to 
 us as a maritime nation, to note the utterly purpose- 
 less way in which nearly all boys or men sail their 
 model vessels; whereas with the requisite knowledge, 
 a self-acting model yacht is as much under the control 
 of the manager as if he were actually on board : 
 further still, matches can be sailed in which the
 
 1 2 Preface. 
 
 results are as certain as are those of the matches of 
 ordinary yachts, as may be seen in the tables of 
 actual races at the end of this work (see p. 103). 
 
 A sailor who thoroughly understands the manage- 
 ment of a ship or boat, when he is on board, steers 
 with a rudder, and reduces, augments, or disposes the 
 sails at his will, would find this knowledge of very 
 secondary importance if he applied it, without great 
 modifications, to sail a model yacht. To give one 
 instance only, model yachts require no fixed rudder, 
 in fact, a fixed rudder is such an incumbrance, and so 
 great a bar to perfect action, that it must be dispensed 
 with altogether. This quite upsets the old adage of a 
 " ship without a rudder," and reverses it ; our model 
 ships need no rudder steer better without, save in 
 one way. 
 
 A rudder is used at times on model yachts, as will 
 be shown in its place, but it must be removed when 
 it has done its work. 
 
 The sails and hulls of model yachts are also very dif-
 
 Preface. 1 3 
 
 ferent to those of full-sized yachts. They are constructed 
 with the mew to being self-acting, and as a model yacht 
 must steer itself, this result can only be obtained by 
 using the sails both for propelling and steering. 
 
 Model yachts, as usually made, may be very beautiful 
 to look at, but, alas ! they will not sail, or will not sail 
 well, they are not self-acting in any sense, they are 
 generally actual reproductions in miniature of cele- 
 brated large yachts, and as these latter are sailed and 
 steered by men on board, it is very certain their 
 miniature copies will not sail without similar guidance. 
 
 I have made these remarks to show that model self- 
 acting yachts cannot be made and sailed without the 
 requisite knowledge and experience, and as there is no 
 book to be got which gives full particulars on the 
 subject, it is believed that this, which contains 
 the result of many years' model yacht making and 
 sailing, will supply an almost national want, and enable 
 any ordinarily intelligent boy to construct, rig, and sail 
 a model yacht with perfect success.
 
 1 4 Preface. 
 
 As a proof of the pains that have been taken to 
 ascertain the best hull and rig for a self-acting yacht, 
 I may say that five yachts have been made, all of the 
 same length, but each of different beam, rig, &c., com- 
 mencing with very narrow beam, and increasing beam, 
 &c., with each model, till the best proportion between 
 length and beam became known, necessarily with each 
 increase of beam more sail could be carried, and also 
 more ballast in lead keel could be used, and in order 
 that the experiments should be crucial and decisive, a 
 final vessel was constructed of the same measurement as 
 the best of those before mentioned, and their sails were 
 made interchangeable, thus deciding beyond doubt 
 which vessel was best, after many trials on the open 
 sea with a true wind. 
 
 It is doubtful if such experiments were ever made 
 before (tables of them will be seen at p. 102), and the 
 author, therefore, feels assured that his readers may 
 have every confidence in the instruction here given.
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 THE first thing necessary for non-nautical yachtsmen 
 is to know the names of the different sails, parts of the 
 vessel, &c., &c., and for this purpose the diagram 
 forming the frontispiece will be useful ; a glossary, 
 also, is added at the end of the work. 
 
 The frontispiece is an exact outline drawing of a 
 model self-acting yacht, of 3-feet water-line, and 39 in. 
 over all ; the diagram is drawn in the proportion of 
 f in. to the foot, and if any reader desires to make a 
 smaller boat, say 30 in., all that need be done is to 
 make everything i smaller, and for a 2-ft. boat 
 smaller ; as the keel, however, would have to be cal- 
 culated by weight, and the above rule would not apply, 
 I give the weight in Ibs. ; a 3-ft. boat requires
 
 1 6 Introduction. 
 
 20 Ibs., a 2-ft.-6-in. boat 10 or u Ibs., and a 24-in. 
 boat 6 Ibs. or nearly. 
 
 I will note here that it is better to make a vessel 
 scooped out, &c., from the solid block, than to build 
 one of small planks ; i st, it is easier (it takes a good 
 carpenter to make one of planks), it can be altered 
 outside if not scooped out too thin at first, it never 
 leaks, and it never comes to pieces ; and, lastly, it does 
 not take half the time to repaint, c., &c.
 
 VIEW OF MACKEREL BACK UPWARDS 
 
 LENGTH OFFISH 13" IN llNCH ' DIVISIONS 
 
 (ACTUAL MEASUREMENT IN INCHES) 
 
 I II' 
 
 I I I 
 I I I 
 I 
 
 DECK LINES OF SEAS HELL 
 
 (ACTUAL MEASUREMENT IN INCHES)-7- 31 "OVER ALL 3" DEPTH "eOUNTER 
 
 V ill 
 
 DECK LINES OF MERMAID 
 (ACTUAL MEASUREMENT IN INCHES) 3l"oVERALL " DEPTH 2"( 
 
 COUNTER 
 
 DECK LINES OF SlLVER. SPRAY 
 
 'ACTUAL MEASUBEMENT IN INCHES) 3l"ovEH ALL 5 QEPTH 2"couNTER 
 
 B
 
 123456789 10 II 
 
 DECK LINES GOLDEN CREST 51'ovER ALL VDEPTH 2"ccuNTR 
 
 (ACTUAL MEASUREMENT) 
 
 * 7 
 
 DECK LINES STORM ALONG 
 
 3 1 "oVER ALL 5"oEPTH 2"COUNTER 
 
 (ACTUAL MEASUREMENT) 
 
 DECK LINES DlANA 
 
 39' OVER ALL 6"?"oEPTH 3"cOUNTER 
 
 36"wATER LINE OR LOAD LINE 
 
 B 2
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PRINCIPLES OF MODEL YACHT BUILDING.
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PRINCIPLES OF MODEL YACHT BUILDING. 
 
 IN order to ascertain the best lines, i. e. shape, for 
 progression through the water, Nature herself may, 
 without hesitation, be taken as the best teacher, and 
 amongst fast-moving fishes a mackerel is one of the 
 fastest and most graceful. 
 
 I procured a mackerel, carefully measured and drew 
 it to scale (see p. 17, diagrams i and 2), first taking the 
 shape back upwards, and next sideways, and in harmony 
 with these lines all the vessels mentioned in this work 
 are constructed. 
 
 On looking at the diagram of the mackerel it is at 
 once apparent that a clean run is more important than a 
 sharp entrance, for the drawing shows the fish to be 
 much fuller in the fore than in the after part ; bearing 
 this in mind, and having drawn the ' mackerel in
 
 24 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 divisions of inches, I took the forward eleven divisions 
 as a model for the deck and general lines of my vessels 
 first, so far as regards " going through the water ;" 
 secondly, because I should thus get " the widest part 
 or beam amidships" and as near the centre of motion 
 and gravity as possible, 
 
 With these ideas in my mind I constructed " Sea- 
 shell " (see diagram 3, p. 17), with the actual measure- 
 ments there stated (as is the case on all the drawings). 
 I rigged her as a schooner ; thus 
 
 She sailed well and steadily, and could be made to go 
 in any direction in a light breeze, but her narrow beam
 
 Principles of Model Yacht Building. 25 
 
 and lightness, with only 3 Ibs. keel, rendered her useless 
 in a stiff breeze, except when she was running away 
 from it. 
 
 I next built " Mermaid " (see diagram 4), with nearly 
 2 in. more beam, and exactly to the measurement of the 
 mackerel sideways, simply increasing each line in 
 proportion as the ship was larger than the fish ; all 
 the lines of the hull being of course in harmony with 
 the increased beam, she had 5 Ibs. lead keel, and 
 was rigged as a cutter (see "Diana" for cutter rig, 
 frontispiece), schooner, or lugger at pleasure. I found 
 she beat " Seashell " considerably in any wind, but 
 especially in strong winds, sailing under any of the 
 above-mentioned sails. 
 
 Learning by this that increased beam and weight 
 meant more power, more sail, and greater speed, I then 
 made " Silver Spray " (see diagram 5), with 8 Ibs. keel, 
 and nearly 2 in. more beam than " Mermaid," and in 
 this vessel I reached about the proportional beam that 
 most model yacht builders have adopted, viz. 3^ beams
 
 26 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 to the length. I rigged her as a cutter only, and 
 she easily beat " Mermaid " every way, I also dis- 
 covered that cutter rig was best, the boats under this 
 rig sailing faster and truer, and are more quickly 
 and expeditiously managed ; at the same time I dis- 
 carded fixed rudders for reasons stated before. 
 
 With this model, " Silver Spray," I had reached a 
 point at which I stuck for some time ; I could hardly 
 think still increased beam or depth would be an ad- 
 vantage, yet I wished to progress, and try something 
 I would. 
 
 I thought the matter over carefully, and at last 
 arrived at the following conclusions : A fish goes 
 through the water only, but a ship goes through and 
 over. Now a duck goes over the water ; how would a 
 vessel built upon a combination of fish and duck 
 succeed ? 
 
 I got a duck, took a plaster cast of his under side, 
 noticed the way ducks got over the water, the resistance 
 of the water and the ripples and wake caused by the
 
 Principles of Model Yacht Building. 27 
 
 duck's motion over the water, and I decided to make 
 a ship to go over the water rather than through it ; 
 the top of the water is alive, and easily displaced in 
 any direction save downwards, the deeper one goes 
 the stiller it is, and the more difficult to displace. I 
 considered, therefore, if I built a vessel of greater beam, 
 very light draught of water, with a lead keel well 
 below the bottom, I should get greatly increased power 
 and speed, for I felt satisfied that the light draught and 
 larger sails more than compensated for a wider beam. 
 
 It stands also to reason that a vessel of a wide 
 beam does not heel over to leeward so much as one 
 of a narrower beam, and it results from that ist, the 
 sails being more perpendicular to the wind, have more 
 power to propel ; and 2nd, the keel being also more 
 " up and down," prevents her making so much leeway. 
 
 No doubt there is a limit to breadth of beam, and 
 although I have not yet fully experimented, I am 
 inclined to think that the limit is reached in " Diana," 
 of three beams to the length.
 
 28 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 On this I built " Golden Crest " (see diagram 6, 
 p. 19), with these qualities, beam ioi in., or \ her 
 length exactly, and only a bare 4 in. depth, and 10 Ibs. 
 lead keel ; I fitted her with sails as a cutter, making 
 them larger than those of " Silver Spray," in proportion 
 to her increased beam and ballast (in lead keel), and 
 she more than fulfilled my utmost expectations, for she 
 beat all the three former models out and out, both in 
 speed and steadiness. 
 
 Still, however, I had not quite finished my experi- 
 ments, for I remarked that in strong winds " Golden 
 Crest," on account of her low freeboard (i.e. little height 
 out of the water), was sometimes overpowered sooner 
 than I thought she ought to be, and I determined to 
 build another vessel on the same lines and of the same 
 size exactly, but with i in. deeper hold ; this I did 
 in "Storm Along" (see diagram 7, p. 19), the only 
 difference between this and " Golden Crest " being the 
 i in. extra depth of hold ; lead keel, sails, masts, 
 &c., &c., all were exactly the same.
 
 Principles of Model Yacht Biiilding. 29 
 
 Now, when Greek meets Greek, then comes the tug 
 of war. So it was here, and it was only after num- 
 berless trials in all winds, and finally by actually 
 interchanging their sails, that " Storm Along " proved 
 the winner ; the reason this was difficult to establish 
 was that at first I only sailed each with its own 
 sails ; when the wind was moderate and sea smooth, 
 " Golden Crest " won a little ; on the other hand, with 
 strong breezes and sea on, " Storm Along " won. I 
 interchanged their sails, and " Storm Along " won 
 considerably always. I then found out that I had 
 happened to lace the feet of the sails of " Storm 
 Along " to their booms, but it never struck me such a 
 trifle would interfere much with the sailing of a model : 
 I was mistaken, however, for I found whichever had the 
 laced sails was sure to lose, and " Golden Crest " lost 
 most ; mind, all these experiments were conducted on 
 the open sea for hours, with true winds and true sea 
 (the most perfect test). I cut the sails loose, and at once 
 and ever after, " Storm Along " proved invariably the
 
 30 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 victor ; in light winds by very, very little, but in strong 
 winds the greater buoyancy, and therefore lateral power, 
 of " Storm Along " always carried the day. 
 
 With all these ships there are no bulwarks, no 
 ornaments, or projections of any kind, nothing but the 
 gear, &c., necessary to set the sails and work them ; 
 everything else is not only useless, but mischievous 
 lumber. 
 
 It may be remarked that the whole of those boats 
 when running before the wind, with self-acting lead 
 rudders, run at very nearly the same speed, length to a 
 great extent governing speed ; but on turning to wind- 
 ward, each falls into its place, as assigned to it in the 
 foregoing pages. 
 
 I have not yet tried whether greater beam still 
 than i the length is an improvement ; I am resting 
 on my oars awhile, and perhaps some one else may 
 undertake the experiment. 
 
 Particulars of the races between " Golden Crest " and 
 " Storm Along " are noted on p. 102.
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 HOW TO MAKE THE HULL.
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 HOW TO MAKE THE HULL. 
 
 BEFORE entering upon the subject of this chapter, I will 
 enumerate the tools which will be needed : these are a 
 small axe, saw, plane, i-in. gouge, i-in. gouge, a rasp, a 
 bradawl, a screw-driver, a gimlet, a hammer, a pair of 
 small round-nosed pliers, a rat-tail file, a half-round file, 
 a small mallet, and last, though not least, a good pocket- 
 knife. 
 
 It is best and easiest, at any rate for beginners, to 
 cut out model ships from a solid block, because if not 
 scooped out too thin, alterations can be made on the 
 outside if desirable ; if the block, in process of cutting 
 out, should split, rub it with a piece of flannel dipped in 
 linseed oil every time after working on it, the tools cut 
 just as easily, and all liability to split is obviated. 
 
 To make a 3-ft. yacht (see lateral view, frontispiece ; 
 
 c
 
 34 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 deck outline, diagram 8, p. 19; and sectional outlines, 
 p. 37), get a block of deal, with as few knots and cracks 
 in it as possible, and well-seasoned ; it must be 39 in. 
 long, 13 in. wide, and 8 in. deep ; thus 
 
 Divide it into two exact halves, as shown by the dotted 
 line this centre line must never be lost or rubbed 
 out till the hull is finished ; choose the best side for 
 the deck or upper side, divide it lengthways into 
 eleven compartments or divisions, and carefully set off 
 on each side the length of each line (as shown in 
 diagram 8, p. 19) ; thus 
 
 With the axe (mind all the tools are sharp) chop off 
 carefully both sides of the block till it is shaped thus
 
 How to Make the Hitll. 
 
 35 
 
 With the gouge cut out the run and entrance in the 
 bottom of the piece of wood, beginning a little forward 
 of the middle for the run ; and at same time cut away 
 so much of the bottom as will leave \ in. for the keel, 
 by i wide. The next diagram shows one side, with 
 entrance and run cut out. 
 
 Having cut out the other side to correspond exactly, 
 and rounded the sides and bottom with the plane and 
 rasp, taking care all the curved parts are in keeping 
 with the curves of the deck diagram c, saw a slanting 
 piece off the cutwater, about \ in. at bottom to 
 nothing at top, measure 36 in. from the middle of 
 
 c 2
 
 36 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 the cutwater towards the stern, and cut out the piece 
 of keel in the run, so as to leave the counter (projecting 
 of the stern) ; thus (the dotted lines show where and 
 how to cut) 
 
 The counter must not project more than 3 in., and 
 therefore the ship will be 3 ft. keel, and 3 ft. 3 in. over 
 all. Now smooth and model the ship to your best 
 ability, see the keel is quite straight, and the sternpost 
 perpendicular to the stempost or cutwater (a a is the 
 sternpost in above diagram E). 
 
 If the vessel is now exactly equal on both sides, and 
 not lob-sided, as sailors call it, you can finish it with the 
 rasp, scrape it with glass, and polish it with sand paper, 
 making the outside look perfectly ship-shape. 
 
 The sectional views here shown enable the model 
 ship builder to judge of the correctness of his work ; they 
 represent the hull when finished^ if cut athwart or across
 
 How to Make the Hull. 
 
 37 
 
 into four pieces of equal length, and by holding the 
 vessel in the required position the builder can see if his 
 model present these or nearly these outlines exteriorly ; 
 if so, it is right. 
 
 It is not at all necessary to adhere exactly to this 
 outline of the midship section (although it governs the 
 outlines of the other two) ; it may be cut somewhat 
 flatter on the bottom, as indicated by the dotted lines, 
 and this would of course slightly vary the other sec- 
 tional outlines, but I do not think it should be made 
 more angular, nor do I advise it, as the vessel would 
 lose too much buoyancy. 
 
 SECTIONAL VIEWS. 
 
 The next thing is to scoop it out with the gouge 
 and mallet. Leave the sides everywhere t or J in. thick,
 
 38 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 and be careful not to scoop thinner, or leave the sides 
 thicker in one part than another. 
 
 The gouge is the principal tool for this work, but a 
 centrebit, to bore holes all over the inside, is a great 
 assistance, it saves half the hammering ; however, when 
 scooped out and the inside smoothed, your vessel should 
 look thus 
 
 Next make the sheer by planing out the gunwale 
 (gunwale a a), beginning at nothing forward at the 
 stem, gradually increasing to -J in. amidships, and again 
 decreasing to nothing at the stern. The diagram G below 
 shows clearly what is meant by the sheer, and how to 
 fashion it : the dotted line is the sheer 
 
 and a vessel looks very stiff and ungraceful without it.
 
 How to Make the Hull. 39 
 
 Now give the inside a coat of white paint, and then 
 the deck can be put on. The deck must be made of 
 one piece of deal plank, without splits or knots, \ in. 
 thick at the sides, and f in. in the middle ; this gives the 
 deck a slightly rounded appearance, and, besides, greatly 
 strengthens it. Mark the shape of the gunwale on the 
 plank by turning the ship bottom upwards upon it, and 
 marking it round with a pencil ; draw a middle line 
 from end to end, and cut it to the required shape as 
 near as possible. 
 
 A beam must now be put across the middle of the 
 ship, exactly level with the gunwale on both sides, 
 to support the deck and strengthen the sides of the 
 ship ; the beam should be \ in. square ; thus 
 
 n 
 
 Screw the sides of the ship to the ends of the beam ; 
 then put on the deck, and screw it to the gunwale all 
 round with |-in. brass (everything must be brass except
 
 40 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 the lead keel) screws at about equal distances of 3 in., 
 and two or three screws through the deck into the 
 beam ; if this is done in a workmanlike way, and the 
 edge of the deck planed off and smoothed level with 
 the side of the ship, the hull ought to be perfect, and 
 practically water-tight. Mind in putting in the beam to 
 leave place for the hatchway or step of the mast. 
 
 The next operation is to put on the keels false and 
 leaden. The false keel is simply a strip of beech, oak, or 
 mahogany, of the same length as the keel of the ship, 
 f in. thick, \ in. deep at one end, and i in. at the 
 other ; thus 
 
 ). JJICO 
 
 This must be screwed into the keel of the ship with 
 brass screws of proper length, i. e. not to go through 
 the bottom of the ship, about 6 in. apart. This false 
 keel, and the position it occupies, can be easily seen in 
 the drawing of " Diana," and is marked K ; the leaden 
 keel is underneath as there shown, and I will now 
 describe the best way to make it.
 
 How to Make the Hull. 4 1 
 
 20 Ibs. of lead will be required for a 3-ft. yacht, as 
 before stated, and the lead can be melted in any old 
 pot, on any ordinary clear kitchen fire. First make an 
 oblong narrow box or mould of any smooth i-in. boards 
 dry, or the lead will splutter and be full of air-holes 
 3 ft. long inside, f in. inside width, 2 in. deep at 
 one end, and 3 in. at the other ; this will hold about 
 20 Ibs. of lead, and here follows a drawing of the 
 mould. 
 
 Into the bottom of this mould, and sticking upright, as 
 shown in the drawing, must be placed at equal distances 
 six or eight pegs, beginning about i in. from the extreme 
 ends of the mould ; these pegs must be rather thicker 
 than the screws intended to screw the leaden to the false 
 keel, and will, as no doubt the intelligent reader already 
 perceives, leave holes in the cast leaden keel for the 
 screws to go through, these screws may be long enough
 
 42 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 to go through the false keel into the ship's bottom, and 
 the work will be all the stronger and better. Having 
 melted the lead, "pour it at once into the mould, and 
 the keel is made ; when cool take it out of the mould, 
 trim it, smooth the sides and top and bottom with the 
 plane, and let the shape be something thus 
 
 Screw it on to and through the false keel (if you cannot 
 make holes through the false keel to receive the screws 
 without danger of splitting it, bore them in their proper 
 places with the bradawl, and then burn them out with a 
 red-hot skewer) ; the thickest end of the keel must be 
 aft or behind, and when screwing it on mind and bore 
 out the top of the holes in the lead, so that the heads 
 of the screws may be quite level with the lead (this 
 operation is called countersinking the screws) ; the 
 heaviest end of the lead is put aft so as to make the 
 ship well up at the stem and deep at the stern ;
 
 How to Make the Hull. 43 
 
 the reason for this will be given in the chapter on 
 " sailing a model yacht." 
 
 It may, however, be well to add here that the false 
 keel, by holding the leaden keel at a greater distance 
 from the bottom of the ship, greatly increases the leverage 
 of the leaden keel without increasing the weight, and 
 gives great hold upon the water, however little water the 
 hull may draw, so that more sail can be carried, and the 
 ship steer better with this arrangement than without it. 
 
 Now try how she floats, and if she floats about 3 in. 
 deeper aft than forward, that will do. 
 
 Next get a strip of sheet brass about 5 ft. long, \ in. 
 wide, and \ in. thick ; most likely you will have to get 
 this soldered in two or three pieces ; it is to make a 
 band to cover the leaden keel at the bottom, ends, and 
 also the stem and sternpost, to keep them from being 
 injured by stones, &c., on striking the shore, &c. ; 
 holes must be punched in it at every 3 in. where it 
 covers the lead, and at every inch where it covers the 
 wood of the stem and sternpost.
 
 44 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 K 
 
 The above drawing shows what is meant, and the place 
 it occupies (I have distorted the drawing to show it 
 better) ; it must be screwed with brass i-in. screws, 
 countersunk, to the lead keel, &c., as above stated ; the 
 cutwater part of it must be filed away to \ in. wide, 
 the rest may be left \ in. wide. This has always been 
 to me the most difficult operation, and it must be well 
 done and put on perfectly straight at bottom and both 
 ends. 
 
 When screwing it on leave one hole without screw 
 in the stem for the bobstay, and two in the sternpost 
 for the self-acting rudder, as shown in this drawing. 
 
 HOLES TO BE LEF 
 
 TOR 
 
 RUDDER HINGES 
 
 The one in the stem must be about 5 in. from top, and
 
 How to Make the Hull. 45 
 
 the two in the sternpost about 5 in. apart the black 
 dots show the places. 
 
 The hull is now finished ; next scratch the deck with 
 straight lines \ in. apart from stem to stern to imitate 
 planks, leaving \ in. margin all round to look like a 
 gunwale, and with the following remarks I will close 
 this chapter. 
 
 It must be understood that it is almost impossible 
 to mention every operation ; many things, and the 
 way to do them, must be left to the ingenuity and skill 
 of the builder ; it is sufficient that if my directions have 
 been reasonably carried out, the result, so far, will be a 
 good seaworthy model yacht's hull. 
 
 I have given in this chapter and elsewhere the dimen- 
 sions for a 3-ft. boat, because it is easier to work down- 
 wards from a large size than upwards from a small one. 
 There is less chance of mistake, fo^ an error in a 2-ft. 
 boat would be multiplied by working upwards, while the 
 same error would be decreased in working downwards. 
 
 A 3-ft. boat is somewhat large and heavy ; 2 ft. and
 
 46 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 2 ft. 6 in. are the best sizes. Indeed, unless a large 
 boat is specially required, beginners should not attempt 
 anything larger than a 2-ft. boat, and even a boat i ft. 
 6 in. is a very good size for boys, and will sail, &c., as 
 well as a 3-ft. boat, though of course not so fast. 
 
 I append tables of measurement for the blocks of 
 wood and weight of keels for all these sizes : 
 
 For 3-ft. boat, block 39" x 13" x 8", keel 20 Ibs. 
 
 2-ft.-6-in.boat,,, 32^x io(|-x6| 10 
 
 2-ft. boat, 26 x 8f x 5-i- 7 
 
 i-ft-6-in.boat, 19^x6^ X4 3 
 
 It would not matter if in the large sizes the keel were 
 a pound or so heavier, and in the small a half-pound or 
 so ; but on no account must they be lighter in any case. 
 I also add the weight of the leaden rudders necessaiy 
 to make the vessels run before the wind. 
 
 3-ft. boat requires i^ Ibs. 
 2-ft.-6-in. boat f 
 2-ft. boat \ 
 l-ft.-6-in. boat ? 
 
 For the masts, sails, and tackle of smaller boats, the 
 calculation of size may be easily made.
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 HOW TO MAKE DECK FITTINGS, RUDDER, &c.
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 HOW TO MAKE DECK FITTINGS, RUDDER, ETC. 
 
 I PURPOSE in this chapter to show how to make and 
 fit all that is required on the deck to secure and work 
 the rigging and sails. The following is a diagram of the 
 deck of the ship, with each object in its proper place, 
 and further on will be given enlarged drawings of each, 
 with description : 
 
 The first object, a, is a i l-in. or 2-in. screw-eye, with 
 large eye for the bowsprit to go through ; this must be 
 carefully screwed into the thick wood at the stem 
 through the deck ; b is the chock for the heel or inner 
 
 D
 
 50 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 end of the bowsprit to fit in ; c is the horse for the 
 foresheet to work on ; d is the hole or step for the 
 mainmast ; e is the hatchway or opening in the deck, 
 just large enough to admit the hand easily ; f is the 
 horse for the mainsheet to travel on ; ^^and hh are i-in. 
 eye-bolts (screw-eyes) for the bowsprit guys, and main- 
 backstays to be hooked to ; these must be firm and strong. 
 Here is a diagram of masts, spars, and rigging only. 
 
 a mainmast. 
 b topmast, 
 cgaff. 
 
 d mainboom. 
 
 e starboard or right backstay, 
 /larboard or left backstay. 
 g bowsprit. 
 
 h starboard bowsprit guy. 
 i larboard bowsprit guy. 
 j bobstay. 
 
 k India-rubber ring to keep boom 
 down. 
 
 Inserting the screw-eye for the bowsprit, a, requires no 
 explanation : it must be just large enough in the eye for
 
 How to Make Deck Fittings, Rudder, &c. 5 1 
 
 the bowsprit to go through ; if not large enough, file it 
 to the necessary size with the rat-tail file. 
 
 The chock b (p. 49) must be made out of a piece of 
 oak or mahogany about 3 in. long, and about i in. 
 thick ; a hole \ in. deep, and of the diameter of the end 
 or heel of the bowsprit should be made in it ; thus 
 i^BKfe^ ' ^ e other end may be tapered off to taste, 
 and screwed strongly right through into the deck 
 exactly amidships. It should be of such a height that 
 when the bowsprit is in its place it shall be perfectly in 
 a line with the mid-deck line, and also with the stem 
 and stern (as shown in the diagram, p. 50). The chock 
 may be placed any distance from the stem, so long as it 
 is not too close to the horse for foresheet (diagram, p. 49). 
 
 The horse for foresheet is made as follows : Cut two 
 diamond or other shaped pieces of sheet brass, \ in. 
 thick, and about ijin. in length; thus < C?^ > ' ma ^ e 
 a small hole at each corner, and a larger hole in the centre; 
 then take about 5 in. of thick brass wire, and bend it at 
 the ends so as to be 4 in. apart, put the ends through the 
 
 D 2
 
 52 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 plates ; thus ^fL <^>> anc ^ so ^ er or 
 
 ^Hfa la 
 
 get soldered, the wire to the plates underneath ; bore 
 holes in the deck 4 in. apart, 2 in. or so forward of the 
 mainmast, and at equal distance from the mid-deck 
 line ; fit in the two ends, a a, and screw the plates 
 firmly to the deck : if it is desired to be very neat, all 
 the small holes should be countersunk. 
 
 Another horse must be made exactly the same way, 
 but i in. wider and somewhat stronger, for the main- 
 sheet (diagram, p. 49,./), and put as near the edge of 
 the stern as due regard for strength will permit. 
 
 The step or socket for the mainmast comes next. 
 Get a short piece of brass tube f in. internal diameter, 
 and about 7^ in. long ; have a screw soldered into one 
 end ; thus 
 
 Bore a hole in the deck exactly amidships, and of 
 exactly the same diameter as the outside of the pipe
 
 How to Make Deck Fittings, Rudder, &c. 53 
 
 or socket 13 in. from the stem, /. e. \ the length of the 
 deck ; put the brass tube in the hole, and screw it tightly 
 to the bottom of the ship, perpendicular to a line drawn 
 from stem to stern, and also from side to side, so that 
 the mainmast when put in it will be perfectly upright 
 from all sides ; file the top of the socket off if too high, 
 so as to leave not more than J in. above the deck. 
 
 To make the hatchway or hole (e in diagram, p. 49), 
 cut out an oval or oblong hole in the centre of the deck, 
 just abaft or behind the beam (diagram H, p. 39) ; a 
 water-tight cover or stopper must be made for this with 
 cork, wood, or anything the maker pleases, it matters 
 not provided it is not much above the level of the deck, 
 is water-tight, and can be taken in or out. 
 
 Now bore a small hole through the deck, close to the 
 starboard quarter (see i in diagram, p. 49), make a 
 short peg to fit it, and call it the pump; by inclining 
 the ship towards this hole after sailing, and drawing 
 the peg, you can see if she has leaked, and let the 
 water out if necessary.
 
 54 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 The screw-eyes g g and h h, p. 49, explain themselves 
 by referring to e, f, h, and 2, in diagram, p. 50 ; they 
 are to hook on the rigging as there shown. These 
 eye-bolts, h h, must be as close abaft the mainmast as is 
 consistent with their properly supporting the mainmast, 
 both laterally and aftwards. The reason is that if 
 placed too far aft they would interfere with the main- 
 boom swinging far enough out when running before the 
 wind ; the nearer the mainboom is to a right angle with 
 the keel, the steadier and faster the ship will run before 
 the wind, g g may be in a line with the horse for the 
 foresheet c (diagram, p. 49) ; care must be taken to 
 screw them through the edge of the deck, and into the 
 gunwale firmly. 
 
 To cast the rudder, make a small wooden mould or 
 box similar to that for the keel, about 6 in. long, 3 in. 
 deep, and \ in. wide.
 
 How to Make Deck Fittings, Rudder, &c. 55 
 
 Insert two moderately thick pieces of brass wire through 
 the bottom, and about an inch into the box (as in dotted 
 line), bend them so as to make them stick in the 
 lead, and just as far apart as are the two screw-eyes for 
 this rudder in diagram "stern," p. 44; pour in li Ibs. 
 of melted lead, trim the lead with the rasp, and turn the 
 wires thus Ip. jB ; and when hooked into 
 
 the screw-eyes or gudgeons, it should act easily either 
 to right or left. Skilful or tasteful young model yacht 
 sailors can vary the shape of the rudder ; I have given 
 the simplest and easiest shape to make. 
 
 This completes all the deck fittings necessary for 
 working and sailing the ship, but if on trial the rudder 
 should be too heavy or too light, another must be made 
 experience is the best guide. 
 
 I need hardly say that every direction I have given 
 need not be followed to the letter ; those who see and 
 know what is required can do many things in their own 
 way, and much must necessarily be left to individual 
 taste, skill, and ingenuity.
 
 56 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 At this stage, varnish the deck with copal varnish, 
 and paint the hull whatever colour or colours fancy 
 dictates ; I, however, advise one colour only for the 
 hull, it is less trouble and easier to repaint or repair, 
 eventualities often recurring with model yachts.
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 HOW TO FIT MASTS, STANDING AND RUNNING 
 
 GEAR, &c.
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 HOW TO FIT MASTS, STANDING AND RUNNING GEAR, ETC. 
 
 THE best material for making masts and spars is 
 bamboo-canes, these require little trimming, can be 
 procured of any thickness and length, and are stronger, 
 lighter, and more elastic than any other kind of wood. 
 
 The mainmast must be 38 in. long from the deck, 
 and f in. diameter at the foot, to fit the socket or step 
 (diagram, p. 52), slightly tapering to the head or top; 
 the head must be fitted with a brass ferrule or socket 
 for the topmast (like a fishing-rod), and must be included 
 in the above 38 in. length, but as the mast has to fit in 
 the step, the depth of the step must be added to it. 
 
 If the yacht builder cannot solder or get soldered 
 eyes on the socket at the mast-head, he must lash them 
 on for the foresail, jib, and main and peak halyards, 
 and also for the main backstays ; thus
 
 60 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 a socket for topmast. 
 b ring for peak halyards. 
 
 throat halyards. 
 
 jib halyards. 
 
 foresail halyards. 
 
 starboard backstay, 
 g larboard backstay. 
 
 Rings d and e must be lashed forward, b and c aft, 
 f and g one on each side, e and c about an inch below 
 f and b ; this is all necessary for the mainmast. 
 
 The bowsprit must be 34^ in. long outside the stem 
 and a trifle thicker than the mainmast ; be careful to 
 allow the extra length from the stem to the chock 
 (p. 51) ; it must have rings (these rings can be got at 
 any fishing shop, of all sizes O O O an X s i ze 
 will do, so that the lines used pass easily through)
 
 How to Fit Masts, &c. 61 
 
 for the guys and bobstay lashed on, and hooks for 
 the jib and foresail ; tip the end with a band thus, to 
 prevent damage to it by collisions 
 
 a a rings on each side, close to the end, for the guys. 
 b ring for bobstay underneath. 
 
 c hook for jib tack. ~) . 
 ,,,,., ., . \ both to be on top. 
 a hook for foresail tack. ) 
 
 The hooks, c and d, for the tacks cannot be lashed 
 on till the sails are made and fitted, for as the jib must 
 always swing clear of the foresail, and the foresail clear 
 of the mainmast, it is best to try them before lashing on 
 these hooks. 
 
 These hooks are made of stout brass wire about 
 ij in. long, flattened where to be lashed, and the end 
 turned up with the pliers; thus "j) ; the 
 
 hook i in. high is plenty, so that the sails may be as 
 low down as possible. 
 
 Next, with the pliers make a dozen hooks or so, this
 
 62 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 shape and size CU*^^ , of strong wire ; and two of 
 still stouter wire, this shape and size, say i in. 
 
 Q<^ *\; the former are for the various standing 
 
 ^^^^WBBB^^^ 
 
 and running gear, and the two latter for the foresail 
 sheet and mainsheet. Make also a dozen or so of 
 
 wood or bone slides to pattern (^ o Q one 
 hook and one slide at least is required for every rope that 
 has to be lengthened or shortened. Ladies' bone meshes 
 of suitable width and thickness make the best slides. 
 
 The following diagram shows the application and use 
 of these in all instances ; say you are fitting the lar- 
 board mainbackstay (f in diagram, p. 50), make fast 
 your line to the ring (g t diagram, p. 60) at the mainmast 
 head, pass the line through two holes of the slide, then 
 through a hook which must be hooked on to the screw- 
 eye (f, diagram, p. 50), back through the other hole in 
 the slide, and make it fast there by a knot, only see the 
 line is not too long or too short for convenient working. 
 By this means, as you will soon see, any rope can be 
 fitted that requires it, and can be lengthened or short-
 
 How to Fit Masts, &c. 
 
 ened in a moment without danger of slipping ; thus 
 
 The best line for all the gear is suitable sizes of fishing- 
 line. If the line kinks, i. e. gets into twists, put a yard 
 or so at a time through the loop of the key in a door, 
 cross it over itself once or twice, and rub it backwards 
 and forwards, that takes all the turn out. 
 
 The brass wire required may be these sizes 
 
 for small hooks. 
 1 larger hooks, &c., &c. 
 
 foresheet horse. 
 mainsheet horse. 
 
 Now comes the mainboom (d, diagram, p. 50) ; it 
 must be 36 in. long, a little thinner than the mainmast, 
 and must be fitted thus 
 
 Put a brass band, a, in. wide, round the thicker end, 
 drive a peg strongly into the hollow of the bamboo (the 
 band is to stop it splitting), and screw in a screw-eye,
 
 64 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 as shown at b above ; then lash one ring on at c, say 
 15 in. from a, and another at d, both on the under side of 
 the boom, this last crossways. These two rings are for 
 the mainsheet /j and are most important ; they must be 
 well put on, the latter, d, about 12 in. from the outer 
 end of the boom, so as to work well when the hook e is 
 hooked on to the horse for this sheet (viz. mainsheet) 
 at the stern ; this hook, e, is to be one of the large 
 hooks (as shown p. 62). 
 
 In order that the mainsheet should not have to be 
 made too long, and thereby get foul of the stern, &c., 
 when the boom swings over in running or reaching, 
 it is best to have another sheet called the " running 
 sheet," to be fitted as follows : 
 
 Screw a screw-eye (a strong one) into the middle of 
 the deck, just abaft the hatchway, lash a ring to the 
 underside of the mainboom exactly over the screw-eye 
 when the mainboom is amidships, fasten a strong 
 piece of line to the screw-eye, put on a slide, then pass 
 it through a hook, and fasten off to the slide, and
 
 How to Fit Masts, &c. 65 
 
 hook into the ring on the mainboom ; and let this 
 sheet be just so long, that when the mainboom is out 
 as far as it can go for the backstays, it will just take 
 the strain off the backstays, .on whichever side it 
 happens to be, in running before the wind. 
 
 By means of this running sheet, when the after 
 mainsheet is unhooked, the mainboom can be kept in 
 or let out to any required angle without the sheet 
 fouling, and as the runnkig sheet is fast to the ship 
 only, it can be easily unhooked from the mainboom 
 when unrigging. Still, this running sheet is not 
 absolutely necessary, but is a very great convenience. 
 
 To attach the mainboom to the mast, and allow it to 
 move freely, get a strip of sheet brass f in. wide, 
 just long enough to go round the mast (close to the 
 deck), and f in. over at each end ; bore a hole at each 
 end thus C: l fr;:.ji:/ :,,:,:::,.,,;, '.^li.^^ijfeL^-j , and bend it round 
 the mast. With the pincers nip the two ends 
 close together, and so that the two holes are 
 in a line thus
 
 66 
 
 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 Now put the screw-eye at the end of the mainboom 
 between these two holes, fasten it there with a bit of 
 wire turned round at each end ; thus 
 
 No arrangement can be more perfect or stronger than 
 this. 
 
 The above operation has to be repeated for thtjaws 
 or inner end of the gaff (c in diagram, p. 50), but the 
 ring must fit the head of the mast instead of the foot. 
 
 The gaff must be 2ii in. long, and a little thinner 
 than the mainboom ; thus
 
 How to Fit Masts, &c. 67 
 
 Lash one large ring at a, as close to the end as possible, 
 two others, smaller, further out at b and c, and one at 
 d\ all these rings must be on the top side of the gaff, 
 d an inch from the outer end of the gaff, for the sheet of 
 the topsail to be hooked on (see frontispiece). 
 
 The topmast is a taper bamboo, the lower end of 
 which must fit tightly into the socket at the mainmast 
 head, it must be 24 in. long outside the socket ; lash 
 two small rings at opposite sides, \ in. from the head, 
 put a knob on the top (called the truck), and the top- 
 mast is ready. 
 
 The boom for the foresail (/. e. the spar that extends 
 the foot of the sail) must be 20 in. long, that for the jib 
 25^ in. long, and both about the thickness of the gaff; 
 here, however, use your judgment. Lash rings on for 
 the sheets of each ; each must have a sliding sheet 
 (see drawing at end of this chapter) the same as for the 
 mainsheet (p. 63) ; the jib sheet, however, requires no 
 hook at the end, but must be made fast to the bowsprit, 
 or, if greater precision is required, a horse may be made 
 
 E 2
 
 68 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 for the jib as for the other sails, and fastened in its 
 
 proper place across the bowsprit, and to the guys as 
 above ; it may be made of thin brass wire, as follows, 
 merely taking care that it is the right length, and that 
 the horse is an inch or so less than the foresheet horse, 
 It is made of four pieces of wire, the horse bent, as in 
 diagram below, and the other pieces soldered to it ; the 
 
 (T 
 
 guys may be passed through the loops a on their re- 
 spective sides, and knots made to keep them in place; it 
 will be perfectly self-acting, and never get out of place ; 
 the weather guy being always tight will always keep it 
 nearly horizontal ; it makes the jib, like the other sails,
 
 How to Fit Masts, &c. 69 
 
 a good driving as well as steering sail. Besides the 
 above rings, another must be lashed on the outer end 
 (all the rings on the boom are underneath) of each 
 boom, a and b, about 2.\ in. from the end ; thus 
 
 and must both be crosswise, as they are to secure these 
 booms to their respective hooks (see c and d on bow- 
 sprit, p. 6 1 ; and also diagram, p. 70). This manner 
 of fixing these sails is the best to keep them tight and 
 flat when in use. 
 
 This diagram shows the best mode of fixing the tacks 
 of jib and foresail to the bowsprit ; by this means, when 
 the sail fills with the wind, it raises the after end of the 
 boom, depresses the fore end, and thus tightens the luff 
 of the sail and keeps it taut, which is very necessary. 
 This diagram also shows how the jib and foresail swing
 
 70 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 clear of each other ; also that the jib must not quite go 
 to the end of the bowsprit, or it may be knocked off. 
 
 When all the rings are carefully and neatly lashed 
 on, say with strong white thread, lashing is the 
 best, because it does not weaken the spars by making 
 it necessary to bore holes in them, varnish all the 
 lashings with copal varnish, it will preserve them and 
 prevent them slipping. 
 
 Each maker must use a little judgment, and under-
 
 How to Fit Masts, &c. 
 
 stand what he is going to do before he does it, and as in 
 some instances the spars, or what not, may be a little 
 too long, the best plan is for the maker to try each 
 and everything before spoiling his work. 
 
 Enlarged Diagram of how to fix the sliding sheets for the respective booms, 
 i. e. jib, fore, and main.
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 HOW TO MAKE THE SAILS AND SET THEM.
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 HOW TO MAKE THE SAILS AND SET THEM. 
 
 THE speed and precision in the sailing of a model yacht, 
 depend much more upon the sails than the hull, and 
 the greatest care must be taken in making them. 
 
 If pains are taken to carry out the following 
 directions, an excellent suit of self-acting sails will 
 be the result. 
 
 The best material is either bleached or unbleached 
 calico, i yd. wide, at %d. per yd., and for a 2-ft. yacht 
 lod. per yd. ; 3 yds. are sufficient for a 3-ft. boat. Steep 
 the calico in clean water, and dry it across a line 
 before using it. It is always better to cut the patterns 
 of the sails out in paper, and try them in their places, 
 before cutting the stuff. 
 
 On the next page are given diagrams of the four 
 sails for a cutter, and as all are cut on the cross, care
 
 76 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 must be taken when hemming them not to pucker or 
 stretch the material ; the after leach, /. e. the behind 
 edge of all the sails, must be the selvedge, and must 
 not be hemmed. In cutting out, allowance must be 
 made for the hems, the measurements given being the 
 actual sizes required. 
 
 The bottoms of the sails must be slightly rounded, as 
 shown above, and a narrow tape must be sewn across, as 
 shown by the dotted lines, to keep the sails from stretching. 
 
 All the sewing for these sails can be done perfectly 
 and expeditiously with any lock-stitch machine ; it 
 will sew them exactly even without puckering, and all
 
 How to Make the Sails and Set them. 77 
 
 that has to be done by hand is to fasten off the corners. 
 I make all my own sails, and can, without hurry, 
 make a full large suit for a 3-ft. boat in an evening. 
 
 The selvedges are not to be hemmed, because the 
 after leaches of all the sails should allow the wind to 
 pass freely off. The sizes of the sails are marked on 
 the diagrams distinctly ; allow \ in. extra on the outer 
 leach of the mainsail, from c to d in diagram below, so 
 that it may be slightly . loose ; this helps to steer 
 materially, as the leach will shake before the body of 
 the sail, if the vessel comes too much up in the wind, 
 and so losing its power allow the ship to fall off and 
 sail steadily. This diagram shows 
 how to cut the head of the mainsail ; 
 the dotted line shows how the sail 
 would be if cut straight, therefore 
 cut straight from a to b, then slant 
 off to d at rather more than midway from a to c. 
 Make eight or ten eyelet holes at equal distances in 
 the hoist of the mainsail, and fix a ring or grummet
 
 78 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 of twine in each hole to fit loosely round the mainmast ; 
 these are better than brass rings or wooden hoops, 
 and weigh nothing. 
 
 The lower outer corner of the mainsail should be 
 double for 2 or 3 in. (see diagram, p. 76), to strengthen 
 it ; in fact, the corners of all the sails are none the 
 worse for being so doubled. 
 
 Now fix the sail to the mainboom and gaff; with a 
 needle and strong thread is best : do not pull the 
 sail too tight. The boom will then be 2 in. or so too 
 long ; do not cut that off, it is useful to turn the ship 
 with ; leave also the extra length of the gaff, it looks 
 better. The head of the sail must be laced or tied 
 to the gaff at intervals of i in., but on no account 
 lace the foot of the sails to the booms ; (for reason 
 why see p. 29) the sail is then ready. 
 
 In setting, i. e. putting on, the mainsail, when you 
 have passed the foot of the mainmast through the 
 jaws of the gaff and all the grummets, then before 
 passing it through the jaws of the mainboom, put on
 
 How to Make the Sails and Set them. 79 
 
 an India-rubber ring, and then the mainboom ; the 
 ring must be pretty tight to the mast, and is very 
 useful to keep the mainboom from slipping up. For 
 position of this ring, see k in diagram, p. 50. 
 
 To hold the mainsail up, the inner ring on the gaff 
 and lower after-ring on the mainmast head, must have 
 stout twine passed through and made fast. This is 
 called the throat-halyards. 
 
 The gaff must be kept at its proper angle by means 
 of twine made fast to the next ring on the gaff, passed 
 through a hook, which hook into the upper after-ring 
 at the mainmast head, and fasten off at the third ring 
 on the gaff. This is called the peak-halyards. With 
 these two, peak and throat-halyards, you can easily fix 
 the mainsail, so that when the mainboom is half an 
 inch above the deck at the mast, and about an inch or 
 so clear of the mainsheet horse at the stern, the sail 
 shall set perfectly flat. 
 
 The annexed arrangement of the topmast stay is 
 excellent ; it keeps tight the luff of the jib, slightly
 
 8o Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 slacks up the after-leach, and is no trouble whatever 
 to fix or unfix. It simply consists of putting a large 
 
 ring (so that the hook can pass 
 through) at the top point of the 
 jib, pass the topmast stay-hook 
 through, and hook it into a ring 
 sewn on to the luff any distance 
 down you think sufficient, as in 
 diagram at side, a topmast, b 
 topmast stay, c mainsail, </jib. 
 
 The jib must have a piece of tape stitched from a to 
 b on the double, \ in. each side (see p. 76), and a ring 
 sewn on at b. A hem only in the luff would be 
 useless on account of the strain. The same must be 
 done to the foresail ; hem the bottoms, and leave the 
 selvedges as they are. 
 
 Lash them to their respective yards or booms (see 
 diagram, pp. 69 and 70). Of course the sail must be 
 on the top of the boom, and the -rings and sheets 
 underneath ; try them in their places ; now lash
 
 How to Make the Sails and Set them. 81 
 
 on the hooks to the bowsprit (see p. 61), and you will 
 see exactly where to put them ; mind, the jib must 
 swing just clear of both bowsprit and foresail (see 
 frontispiece), and the foresail just clear of the mast 
 and stem. Fit both these sails at the head with a 
 hook and slide, the end of the line to be fast to the 
 head of the sail, and the hook is to hook into the rings 
 (respectively) at the mainmast head (see frontispiece), 
 which shows exactly how all the sails set. The booms 
 for these sails (jib and foresail) must be cut close, as 
 there is no room to spare. 
 
 The topsail is 28 in. high, and reaches from the 
 large ring in the jaws of the gaff (a, p. 66) to the 
 topmast head, and before cutting it out the mainsail 
 must be tried and set. The shape of this sail depends 
 on the peak or angle of the gaff ; and having made a 
 pattern in paper to fit thus, make eyelet holes equidis- 
 tant from b to head of the mainmast, and put in rings 
 of twine to fit the topmast loosely, as was done before 
 with mainsail ; fasten a hook to each of the corners, a, 
 
 F
 
 82 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 b, c, to hook into the respective rings already placed 
 for them ; if the hooks are too short, 
 use a piece of twine sewn to the sail, at 
 b and c only, to lengthen them ; now 
 sew a button at the edge of the 
 curved bottom of the sail at d, and a 
 loop to button on it on the head of 
 the mainsail at e; this keeps the 
 rounded foot always flat. 
 The masts, sails, and gear being now all complete, 
 try them on, and make any little alterations that may 
 be necessary. If my directions have been intelligently 
 followed, the sails will be exactly the sizes and shape 
 of those in the lateral diagram, frontispiece. 
 
 A strong, fine piece of line, fitted with a slide and hook, 
 in the usual way, the end made fast to the topmast 
 head ring forward, and the hook to be hooked into 
 the ring at the jib head or top corner (see the diagram 
 p. 80, and also frontispiece). This is to raise the foot 
 of the jib, if required, and also to steady the topmast ;
 
 How to Make the Sails and Set them. 83 
 
 this is a simple though not so effectual a topmast stay as 
 that given, p. 80. 
 
 The sails must be as tight and flat as possible when 
 set, and the mast must be kept exactly upright by the 
 backstays aft, and by the jib and foresail forward, the 
 tape on the jib and foresail taking the place of stays 
 or ropes used for that purpose in ordinary yachts, 
 which are by this means dispensed with in models. 
 
 Sail and mast-making is not yet done. Another 
 suit of masts, spars, and sails, of exactly two-thirds the 
 length, breadth, and height of these, must be made. 
 It is called the storm suit, and is used when the wind 
 is too strong for the first suit. Reefing is not practicable 
 in a cutter. 
 
 Some model yachtsmen have three or four suits of 
 sails, &c. ; I find two sufficient, because I don't sail a 
 yacht when there is scarcely a breath, and I don't sail 
 one when it blows a hurricane, and so I find two 
 suits enough. Still if you race in matches, and mean 
 winning, you must have both a larger and smaller suit, 
 
 F 2
 
 84 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 for you can never tell what the wind will be on the 
 race day, and must be prepared. 
 
 Now that all your sails are complete, paint the hull, 
 and varnish the deck again ; tip the end of the masts 
 and booms the colour of your yacht, it looks ship- 
 shape. 
 
 A pole of pine or deal, 6 ft. long, with a double 
 hook at one end, is required to handle and turn the 
 ship. Herewith drawing of the hook. 
 One side is to push the ship out, and the 
 other to pull it in or turn it. 
 
 Lastly, two bags are needed, each to contain i Ib. 
 of shot, for shifting ballast to trim the ship, if you 
 require her deeper aft or forward,
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 HOW TO SAIL AND STEER A MODEL YACHT.
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 HOW TO SAIL AND STEER A MODEL YACHT. 
 
 THE action of the wind upon the sails of a vessel 
 presses her down sideways and forwards, this causes 
 the lee bow (viz. that on the side opposed to the wind) 
 to be more immersed than the weather bow (or wind 
 side bow), and the curve of the bow acting like a rudder 
 or wedge, forces the vessel strongly up in the wind, in 
 exact proportion to the strength of the wind. This is 
 a simple mechanical law any one can understand after 
 watching a model yacht for five minutes, and to 
 counteract while utilizing it, I build a model yacht 
 much deeper aft than forward, make the bowsprit very 
 long, the jib and foresail large, and the mainsail narrow 
 at the head and slack in the outer leach or edge. 
 These arrangements, properly adjusted, nearly neutral- 
 ize this tendency of the lee bow to force the ship to
 
 88 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 windward, and leave only just enough, so that by 
 setting the sails in the way shown later, a model 
 yacht steers itself perfectly. Great care must be taken 
 not to overdo it, otherwise the vessel will run off the 
 wind, and not steer herself at all. 
 
 The part which the increased depth of keel aft plays 
 in steering a model yacht is this ; as the sails are very 
 evenly balanced, and exert little more force at the 
 stern than at the bow when the 'vessel is upright in the 
 water ; yet even then there is always the tendency 
 more or less to come up in the wind, and as the bow 
 is not so deep as the stern, the lateral pressure of all 
 the sails forces the vessel sideways (called leeway), 
 she makes more leeway forward than aft, and thus 
 this particular arrangement helps to make her steer 
 herself. Necessarily, when the wind blows strongly it is 
 of very great use, and enables increased length of bow- 
 sprit to be dispensed with : too long a bow r sprit is a 
 great drawback, it dips in the water, and is difficult to 
 fasten firmly.
 
 How to Sail and Steer a Model Yacht. 89 
 
 Again, a model vessel being well up by the stem, 
 and deep aft, possesses another power of self-steering, 
 viz. when the wind presses her down forward (when 
 on the wind), it lightens her aft ; this, of course, 
 permits her to gripe more to windward, as she holds 
 more water forward and less aft, but if she comes up 
 too much, so as to relieve the mainsail of a great part 
 of its pressure, the opposite action results, the bow is 
 lightened and the stern depressed exactly in proportion, 
 so that under all circumstances the vessel possesses a 
 self-acting power to steer herself. 
 
 Now, as just shown, a model yacht, partly by the 
 action of the sails (particularly the mainsail), and 
 partly by the action of the lee bow, will always keep 
 close to the wind, in fact, too close ; therefore, to make 
 her steer herself, the jib and foresail are kept in a 
 little closer (i. e. more in a parallel line with the keel) 
 than the mainsail. So if the vessel comes too close 
 to the wind, first the outer leach of the mainsail loses 
 its power and shakes, and if this does not suffice, as it
 
 90 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 should, to make her fall off again, the whole mainsail 
 will shake, and as the jib and foresail must keep full, 
 the ship pays off till the mainsail fills again. So an 
 equilibrium is attained, and in a steady wind, on the 
 sea for instance, the yacht would sail on in the same 
 direction as if on rails, till the sails dropped in pieces. 
 
 This diagram gives the disposition of the booms by 
 means of their respective sheets. To make a yacht 
 sail full and by, /. e. close to the wind, and neither 
 run off or shake, the jib is nearly parallel to the 
 bowsprit, the foresail less so, and the mainsail least 
 
 of all, and clearly shows the principle, for it is evident 
 that if the vessel turned more towards the wind, the 
 mainsail would shake, and the jib and foresail keeping 
 still full, would turn the ship back to her course again, 
 viz. "full and by." On the other hand, she cannot
 
 How to Sail and Steer a Model Yacht. 91 
 
 run off the wind, because the mainsail, well full as it 
 must be, if she ran off, would bring her up again 
 instantly. 
 
 I presume every intelligent person understands that 
 a vessel cannot sail with her head to the wind (all the 
 sails must shake, and she would go a- stern), and few 
 vessels can sail nearer, if so near, as at an angle of 45 
 to the wind. In the next diagram (p. 92), will be shown 
 the way to sail the vessel in way possible direction, and 
 how the booms must be disposed, and the rudder or 
 rudders and ballast bags used to accomplish it. 
 
 The wind is supposed to be blowing in the direction 
 the arrow flies, and by holding this diagram with the 
 arrow towards the point the wind is blowing from, your 
 vessel can be made to sail in every direction there 
 indicated. 
 
 No vessel can head nearer towards the wind shown 
 by the arrow, than a and aa, one being on the larboard, 
 the other on the starboard tack (as it is called), /. e. 
 about 45, four points of a compass, or half a right angle.
 
 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 The vessel at a is therefore sailing close to the 
 wind on the larboard tack, with the sails disposed for 
 that purpose, as already shown (p. 90) ; to put her on 
 the other tack, simply turn her in the direction aa, 
 head to wind ; the sails, being self-acting, will go over
 
 How to Sail and Steer a Model Yacht. 93 
 
 of themselves by the force of the wind, and she will 
 continue on that tack till stopped or turned. 
 
 To sail her as at b, ease off the mainsheet till the 
 mainboom is at an angle of 45 (this is called wind 
 abeam) to the keel of the ship, and she will do so ; it 
 is seldom necessary to touch the jib or foresheets, leave 
 those sails as at a. To sail her as at bb, turn her 
 round, head to wind, and the sails take the same place 
 on the other side, and that is done. 
 
 To sail as at c, let go the mainsheet altogether ; if the 
 wind is not too strong, she will do so, but if it is too 
 strong, a light rudder, self-acting, of about Ib. weight 
 must be made and used, and that will do it. Turn 
 her round as before, head to wind, if you wish to sail 
 her as at cc. The rule is simple enough : if the sails 
 are set, and propel her in a given direction on the one 
 tack, she will, if turned, sail in the corresponding 
 direction on the other tack. 
 
 To run before the wind at d, with the mainsheet let 
 go, hook on the heavy rudder, and she will run more
 
 94 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 or less true before the wind, according to the perfection 
 with which the ship is built and the rudder balanced. 
 The cause is this : if the vessel turns, say to starboard, 
 the wind necessarily presses her over to larboard, the 
 self-acting rudder (being exactly upright when the ship 
 is upright) falls over to larboard also, and instantly 
 puts her straight again ; the exact opposite takes place 
 should she turn to larboard, and so she imist sail 
 straight before the wind. 
 
 When the wind is very light, it will sometimes 
 occur, that the vessel on account of the large jib and 
 foresail, will run off the wind ; if so, put one or two 
 of the bags of shot inside in her bows, and most 
 likely that will remedy it ; if not, change the angles of 
 the jib and foresails, i. e. let the jib sheet out more, 
 and haul the foresheet in as much as the jib was, so 
 that you would then be steering more by the foresail 
 than by the jib. This is sure to succeed. 
 
 Before all these manoeuvres can be successfully per- 
 formed, some little practice is necessary, of course ;
 
 How to Sail and Steer a Model Yacht. 95 
 
 ships, like everything else, have little ways of their 
 own, and must be studied. 
 
 The topsail must always be kept set, and needs no 
 touching after being once set, for though of no great 
 use as a propelling sail, save off the wind, it is so as a 
 steadying sail, being so lofty. My experience has 
 taught me never to dispense with it. 
 
 To prove the certainty with which a model yacht 
 must sail in the direction intended, you can, as an 
 experiment, put the vessel's head in the water in any 
 direction you please, and she will immediately take 
 the course for which the sails are set, no matter how 
 you put her in the water. For instance, place her in 
 the water, head to wind, with the mainsheet let go, 
 and the heavy rudder on, i. e. to sail as at d (p. 92), and 
 she will of her own account turn round and run before 
 the wind, an operation which, to those not in the 
 secret, seems like magic. 
 
 Rigged in the way I have described, with every part 
 of the standing and running rigging being made fast
 
 96 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 by hooks and slides, a cutter can be completely un- 
 rigged in one minute, and rigged again in three 
 minutes : I have done it in these times easily. This 
 is a very great advantage ; there are no knots to make, 
 no time is lost, and yet the rigging is as strong and 
 as perfect as possible, and never fails till worn out. 
 
 I hope I have now made all clear, and that my 
 readers may be enabled to build ships, and rig them to 
 sail with as much satisfaction to themselves as mine 
 are to me. 
 
 Model yachts can be rigged to sail and steer well, as 
 schooners, luggers, &c., and I have vessels rigged in 
 those ways. Should this treatise meet with success, I 
 purpose writing a second, dealing with this subject.
 
 MATERIALS FOR MODEL SHIPS. 
 
 BLOCK of wood : white pine or soft deal ; at almost 
 any wood-yard, and particularly at those in the 
 neighbourhood of the docks ; cost for a 2-ft. boat, 
 2s. 6d. t for a 3- ft., about 105-. 
 
 Masts, booms, &c., of bamboo canes, at florists, 
 who sell cheap bamboos for about &/. per dozen for 
 gardening purposes ; the best can be selected, and they 
 will serve for masts, all the spars of a 2-ft. boat, and 
 for booms, gaffs, and topmasts of 3-ft. boats. Bamboos 
 for the mast, bowsprit, and mainboom of 3-ft. boats 
 can be got at fishing-tackle shops and toy shops ; both 
 sell cheap bamboo fishing-rods at about %d. each. 
 They can be easily selected of the required thickness 
 and length. Excellent bamboo canes for booms, gaffs, 
 and topmasts can also be obtained at umbrella shops 
 
 G
 
 98 Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing. 
 
 and stick shops, but they cost more id., zd. t or 
 and even 6d. each. 
 
 Twine, white line, &c., for standing and running 
 rigging, can be had at fishing-tackle or cord and twine 
 shops. 
 
 Calico and tape at any linendrapers. 
 
 Lead at any plumber's shop, 20*. or ^d. per Ib. 
 
 Paint and copal at any oilman's. Paint 6d or %d. 
 per Ib. Copal varnish about is. per pint ; ^d. worth 
 is enough for a 3-ft. boat 
 
 Brass and copper wire at most ironmongers, as also 
 screw-eyes of any size. If the two former cannot be 
 readily obtained, Messrs. Jackson and Sons, 17, Sun 
 Street, Finsbury, keep every size in brass and copper 
 wire, and every thickness in brass and copper sheets ; 
 all these are sold by weight. 
 
 All sizes of rings can be had at fishing-tackle shops. 
 id or 2.d. per dozen. 
 
 Ferrules or bands for tipping the ends of spars to 
 prevent them splitting, can be got at fishing-tackle
 
 Mater ia Is for Model Ships . 99 
 
 shops, and the amateur builder can file off any length 
 required ; they are very cheap. For small bands, pipe 
 mounts are excellent, very light and thin, and easily 
 cut to any length. Most tobacconists keep them in all 
 sizes, id or 2ct. each. 
 
 If the boat builder cannot get or make bands, lash 
 or bind the ends of the spars neatly and strongly with 
 good white thread, and then paint it well with copal. 
 It will answer every purpose, but does not look so 
 neat and trim. 
 
 Lastly, slides can be made of any hard wood as well 
 as of bone, and the requisite holes bored with a brad- 
 awl, and then seared with a red-hot skewer. 
 
 G 2
 
 GLOSSARY. 
 
 ABAFT, i 
 
 AFT J towards the stern - 
 
 AMIDSHIPS, middle of a ship or anything. 
 
 BACKSTAY, ropes which support the mast 
 sideways and backwards. 
 
 BEAM, breadth of a vessel, also the sup- 
 port of the deck. 
 
 BOARD, the distance sailed on one tack. 
 
 BOBSTAY, the rope that keeps the bow- 
 sprit down ; reaches from end of 
 bowsprit to cutwater. 
 
 BOOM, any spar used to extend the foot 
 of a sail. 
 
 Bow, front part of a vessel. 
 
 BOWSPRIT, spar projecting in front of a 
 vessel to set the jibs on. 
 
 BULWARKS, the wooden railings round 
 the deck of a ship. 
 
 CHOCK, piece of wood to hold anything 
 firmly. 
 
 CLOSE, a vessel being as near the direction 
 of the wind as she can go without 
 shaking. 
 
 COUNTER, the projection of the stern. 
 
 CUTWATER, the sharp part of the bow. 
 
 DECK, the covering of the ship to keep 
 the water out, &c. 
 
 DRAW, a ship draws so much water, i.e. it 
 is so many feet in the water. 
 
 ENTRANCE, the forward part of the 
 bottom of a vessel, tapered off to the 
 cutwater, so as to cleave the water. 
 
 FALL OFF, when a vessel turns from the 
 direction of the wind. 
 
 FOOT, bottom of a mast or sail. 
 
 FORE AND AFT, any sail which does not 
 
 cross the mast. 
 
 FORESAIL, sail in forepart of a ship. 
 FORWARD, fore part of a ship. 
 FULL, when the sails are distended by 
 
 the wind. 
 FULL AND BY, close to the wind yet 
 
 not shaking. See CLOSE. 
 GAFF, the spar which supports the head 
 
 of a fore and aft sail. 
 GRUMMET, a ring made of rope. 
 GUDGEON, a sort of eye-bolt for the 
 
 rudder to work on. 
 GUNWALE, top of the side of a ship on 
 
 which the deck is fastened. 
 GUY, rope to keep and secure the bow- 
 sprit, &c., laterally. 
 
 HALYARDS, ropes used to hoist the sails. 
 HATCHWAY, openings in the deck of a ship. 
 HEAD, top of a mast or sail. 
 HOIST, height a sail is pulled up. 
 HOLD, the inside of a ship. 
 HORSE, long bars of iron on which the 
 
 sheets of sails work. 
 HULL, body of a ship. 
 JAWS, any arrangement to secure a gaff 
 
 or boom to a mast, and allow it to 
 
 swing from side to side, &c. 
 JlB, a three-cornered sail in front of a ship. 
 KEEL, the centre of the bottom of a ship. 
 LACED, tied in a certain way. 
 LARBOARD, left. 
 LEACH, edge of a sail, generally the side.
 
 Glossary. 
 
 101 
 
 LEE, side of a vessel farthest from that | 
 
 from which the wind blows. 
 LEE-WAY, the side-way motion of a ship 
 caused by the side pressure of the j 
 wind. 
 
 LUFF, to go closer to the wind. 
 LUFF (of a sail), edge of a sail nearest 
 
 the wind. 
 MAIN-HALYARDS, ropes to hoist the 
 
 mainsail. 
 
 MAINMAST, the lower mast in a cutter. 
 MAINSHEET, the rope or gear to secure 
 and regulate the after lower corner of 
 the mainsail. 
 
 NEAR, same as close. See CLOSE. 
 OFF. See FALL OFF. 
 OVERALL, from stem to stern. 
 PAY OFF. See FALL OFF. 
 PEAK, the angular head of the mainsail. 
 PEAK-HALYARDS, ropes to hoist the 
 
 outer end of the gaff. 
 QUARTERS, both sides of a ship close to 
 
 the stern. 
 REACHING, sailing with the wind abeam 
 
 or nearly so. 
 REEFING, reducing the sails by tying 
 
 them up smaller. 
 
 RUN, the after part of the bottom of a 
 vessel, tapered off to the stern-post, 
 so as to leave the water freely. 
 RUNNING, sailing with the wind astern 
 or nearly so. 
 
 RUNNING GEAR, any ropes used for 
 
 hoisting the sails or yards. 
 SELVEDGE, the even edge of linen, canvas, 
 
 &c. 
 SHAKE, when the sails shake in the 
 
 wind and so lose their power. 
 SHEER, slope of a vessel downwards to 
 
 midships from stem and stern. 
 SHEET, robes used to secure and regulate 
 
 lower after corner of sails. 
 STANDING GEAR, any fixed ropes, as 
 
 backstays, &c. 
 STARBOARD, right side. 
 STAY, ropes used to support the masts 
 
 fonvard only. 
 STEM. See CUTWATER. 
 STEP, socket for heel of mast, &c. 
 STERN, the after part of a vessel. 
 STERN-POST, end of keel and run, upon 
 
 which the rudder is fixed. 
 TACK, fonvard lower corner of a sail. 
 TACK, to make a zigzag course so as to 
 
 get to windward. 
 TAUT, tight. 
 
 TOPMAST, the second mast from the deck. 
 WATERLINE, line of the water on the 
 
 side, &c., of a ship, showing how 
 
 deep she is in the water. 
 WEATHER, side of a vessel, &c., nearest 
 
 the wind. 
 
 WINDWARD, in direction of the wind, 
 the side from which the wind blows.
 
 CONTESTS ON THE OPEN SEA BETWEEN 
 
 CUTTERS "GOLDEN CREST" AND 
 
 "STORM ALONG." 
 
 ist Trial. Strong breeze, rough sea, storm sails, foot of sails 
 laced to booms ; i ^ miles on each tack. " Storm Along " beat 
 on each tack, about 50 yds. to windward. 
 
 2nd Trial. Large suits, light breeze and sea; ij miles on 
 each tack. " Storm Along," all sails laced to booms ; " Golden 
 Crest," mainsail free and jib laced. " Storm Along " led a few 
 yards once ; " Golden Crest " beat, 20 yds. in 2 boards. 
 
 yd Trial. Sails as in 2nd Trial, moderate breeze and sea ; 
 2 boards, i miles each. " Golden Crest " beat, 20 yds. on each. 
 
 t\th Trial. Sails as above, moderate breeze and sea, inter- 
 changed sails. " Storm Along " beat, \ mile on each tack of 
 i mile length each. 
 
 5//z Trial. Moderate breeze and sea, " Storm Along " own 
 sails all free from booms, and " Golden Crest " all laced ; 2 
 boards of i mile each. " Storm Along " beat, J mile to wind- 
 ward, i last board of i mile ; " Golden Crest/' all sails free 
 from booms, i. e. both vessels own sails and alike. " Storm 
 Along" beat, \ mile dead to windward. 
 
 6tk Trial. Gentle breeze and sea, full suits and each their 
 own. " Storm Along " beat, 40 yds. to windward in mile 
 board. "Golden Crest" headreached a little, this wind and 
 sea showing her best points.
 
 TIME TABLE OF TWO MODEL YACHT 
 REGATTAS. 
 
 4-ft. cutters. Wind strong, E. by S. 4 vessels in each heat. 
 Course once up and down pond, 259 yds. long, 30 yds. wide ; 
 length of pond being E. and W. 
 
 
 Start. 
 
 Run. 
 
 Beat back. 
 
 Time. 
 
 
 H. M. 
 
 H. M. 
 
 H. M. 
 
 M. 
 
 ist Heat .... 
 
 4 H 
 
 4 i6| 
 
 4 234 
 
 9i 
 
 2nd . . . . 
 
 4 33 
 
 4 36 
 
 4 42f 
 
 9i 
 
 3rd . . . . 
 
 4 50 
 
 4 53 
 
 4 59 
 
 9 
 
 Loser's Heat . . . 
 
 5 4 
 
 5 7 
 
 5 Hi 
 
 10* 
 
 Final . . . 
 
 5 20 
 
 5 23i 
 
 5 3i 
 
 II 
 
 In this race, final heat, the three first winners fouled, and the 
 winner of loser's heat won. 
 
 3-ft. cutters. Wind strong, W. by S. Course as above. 
 
 
 Start. 
 
 Run. 
 
 Beat back. 
 
 Time. 
 
 ist Heat .... 
 2nd . . . . 
 
 H. M. S. 
 5 14 50 
 $ 1 "? 3O 
 
 H. M. S. 
 
 5 18 30 
 "? 3Q 8 
 
 H. M. S. 
 
 5 26 23 
 i; 46 40 
 
 M. S. 
 II 33 
 II IO 
 
 3rd . . . . 
 Loser's Heat . . . 
 Final . . . 
 
 6 3 5 
 6 23 5 
 6 43 52 
 
 6 6 40 
 6 26 30 
 6 47 25 
 
 6 16 5 
 6 36 10 
 6 54 50 
 
 13 o 
 
 13 5 
 10 58 
 
 This last race won by 6 in. only. 
 
 By examining above table, it appears to novices almost in- 
 credible that such precision can be attained in model yacht 
 sailing. All the heats were won by a few feet only, and some 
 by inches.
 
 BEST WATERS FOR SAILING MODEL YACHTS. 
 
 THE best ponds for sailing model yachts in London are : (i) 
 Victoria Park Pond, but only when the wind is E. or W. (2) 
 Round Pond, Kensington, in any winds, all sides of this pond 
 being clear of trees. (3) Serpentine, in any wind. 
 
 Hampstead and Highgate ponds are also available, but have 
 muddy edges, and seldom a true wind on account of the high 
 banks. 
 
 There are also good ponds on Clapham Common and 
 Peckham Rye. 
 
 GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, PRINTERS, ST. JOHN'S SQUARE, LONDON.
 
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 BUTLER. Thirty-sixth Edition, Revised to date. 41-. 
 
 TABULAR VIEWS OF THE GEOGRAPHY AND 
 
 SACRED HISTORY OF PALESTINE, AND OF THE TRAVELS OF ST. PAUL. 
 Intended for Pupil Teachers, and others engaged in Class Teaching. By A. T. WHITE. 
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 DARNELL, G. GRAMMAR MADE INTELLIGIBLE 
 
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 trations by J. Gilbert. New Edition. Sewed, 6d. 
 
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 SHEET LESSONS, being Extracts from the above, printed in 
 
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 CAYZER, T. S. ONE THOUSAND ARITHMETICAL 
 
 TESTS; or, THE EXAMINER'S ASSISTANT. Specially adapted, by a novel arrange- 
 ment of the subject, for Examination Purposes, but also suited for general use in Schools. By 
 T. S. CAYZER, Head Master in Queen Elizabeth's Hospital, Bristol. Eleventh Thousand. 
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 All the operations of Arithmetic are presented under Forty Heads, and on opening at any one of 
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 KEY WITH SOLUTIONS OF ALL THE EXAMPLES 
 
 IN THE ONE THOUSAND ARITHMETICAL TESTS. By THOMAS S. CAYZER. Price 
 4J. 6d. cloth. 
 
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 PUBLISHED BY GRIFFITH AND FARRAN. 15 
 
 ARITHMETIC, ALGEBRA, AND GEOMETRY. Continued 
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 THEORY AND PRACTICE OF THE METRIC SYSTEM 
 
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 THE ESSENTIALS OF GEOMETRY, PLANE AND 
 
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 LE BABILLARD; an Amusing Introduction to the French 
 
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 1 6 WORKS PUBLISHED BY GRIFFITH AND FARRAN. 
 
 NEEDLEWORK, &c., AS REQUIRED BY THE NEW 
 EDUCATIONAL CODE. 
 
 New Work by the author of " Plain Needlework " and " Plain Knitting" 
 
 PLAIN CUTTING OUT FOR STANDARDS IV., V., 
 
 and VI., as now required by the Government Educational Department. By the EXAMINER OF 
 NEEDLEWORK TO THE SCHOOL BOARD FOR LONDON. Adapted to the Principles of 
 Elementary Geometry. Sewed u. 
 
 A SET OF THE DIAGRAMS REFERRED TO IN 
 
 the Book may be had separately, printed on stout paper and inclosed in an envelope, u. 
 
 "An invaluable little book ; has mastered the most difficult branch in the needle-work department." Queen. 
 "A great aid ... of great service to all instructors, whether in select ladies' seminaries, board schools, large 
 families, or home schoolrooms." Bazaar. 
 
 " Full of valuable information." Scholastic World. 
 
 By the same Author. 
 
 PLAIN NEEDLEWORK ARRANGED IN SIX STAND- 
 
 ARDS, with Hints for the Management of Classes, and Appendix on Simultaneous Teaching. 
 Fifteenth Thousand. Sewed 6d. 
 
 PLAIN KNITTING AND MENDING, ARRANGED 
 
 in Six Standards, with Diagrams. Eighth Thousand. Sewed, 6</. 
 
 ** These works are recommended in the published Code of the Educational Department. 
 
 NEEDLEWORK DEMONSTRATION SHEETS. 
 
 Messrs. GRIFFITH & FARRAN have the pleasure to announce that they have a series of the 
 above, which exhibit certain Stitches in elementary Needlework, in preparation for use in classes. 
 They are designed under the superintendence of the Examiner of Needlework for the School 
 Board for London, author of the very popular manuals on the subject named above. The size of 
 the Sheets will be about 30 x 22 inches, and the following are nearly ready : 
 
 Alphabets for Marking 6 Sheets. 
 
 True Marking Stitch I 
 
 Stocking Web Stitch I 
 
 Grafting Stocking Material I 
 
 Herring Bone I 
 
 Fisherman's Stitch for Braiding Nets I 
 
 Other Stitches will be added of which further particulars will be announced. 
 
 DEMONSTRATION FRAMES for CLASS TEACHING, 
 
 With Special Needles and Cord to use with the Frames, can also be supplied. 
 
 ARTIZAN COOKERY AND HOW TO TEACH IT. 
 
 By a Pupil of the National Training School for Cookery, South Kensington. Sewed, 6d. 
 
 " VVhoever wants to promote a knowledge of cheap and wholesome cookery among the poor would do well to read 
 this little book." School Board Chronicle. 
 " A really practical little book." Bookseller. 
 
 GRIFFITH AND FARRAN, 
 WEST CORNER OF ST. PAUL'S CHURCHYARD, LONDON.
 
 UCSB
 
 _ ii