EAKLY ASD LATE PAPEES HITHERTO UNCOLLECTED. BY WILLIAM MAKEPEACE THACKERAY. BOSTON: TICKNOR AND FIELDS. 1867. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1867, by TICKNOR AND FIELDS, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts. UNIVERSITY PRESS: WELCH, BIGELOW, & Co., CAMBRIDGE. PR NOTE. SEVERAL years ago, when the author of these papers visited America, he had the pleasant habit of quoting to his friends phrases, and sometimes long paragraphs, from his earlier contributions to the English periodicals ; and when asked why he had not included these magazine articles among his other miscellanies, he replied, " They are small potatoes," adding, at the same time, " but pretty good small potatoes, I believe." The collector of these Thackeray-valuables remembers also when he begged the author to bring together his scat- tered contributions to "Fraser" and "Punch," he replied : " Do it yourself, mon ami ; write the preface, and I'll stand by you." It seems a real loss to the admirers of that fine genius to allow so much that he has writ- ten to remajn longer shut up in the somewhat IV NOTE. inaccessible pages of foreign periodicals, and this volume is published for those who treasure every- thing that came sparkling from Thackeray's pen. Much yet remains uncollected of this great mas- ter's contributions to the current magazine litera- ture of his day, and at some future time other volumes, similar in character to this one, may appear from the same press. J. T. F. BOSTON, May, 1867. CONTENTS. PAGH MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING 1 MEN AND COATS 38 BLUEBEARD'S GHOST 63 DICKENS IN FRANCE 95 JOHN LEECH'S PICTURES OP LIFE AND CHARACTER . 122 LITTLE TRAVELS AND EOAD-SIDE SKETCHES. No. L FROM RICHMOND IN SURREY TO BRUSSELS IN BELGIUM 139 No. II. GHENT. BRUGES . 167 No. III. WATERLOO 181 ON MEN AND PICTURES 188 PICTURE GOSSIP 222 THE ANONYMOUS IN PERIODICAL LITERATURE . . 250 GOETHE ' 256 A LEAF OUT OF A SKETCH-BOOK 261 THE LAST SKETCH 269 " STRANGE TO SAY, ON CLUB PAPER " . . . . 274 AUTOUR DE MON CHAPEAU 282 ON A PEAL OF BELLS 295 ON SOME CARP AT SANS Souci 308 VI CONTENTS. DESSEIN'S 317 ON A PEAR-TREE 332 ON A MEDAL OF GEORGE THE FOURTH . . . 342 ON ALEXANDRINES . 354 THE NOTCH ON THE AXE 365 DE FINIBUS . 396 EARLY AND LATE PAPERS. MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. IN A LETTER TO OLIVER YORKE, ESQ., BY M. A. TITMARSH. PARIS, May, 1341. ]IR, The man who makes the best salads in London, and whom, therefore, we have face- tiously called Sultan Saladin, a man who is conspicuous for his love and practice of all the polite arts, music, to wit, architecture, painting, and cookery, once took the humble personage who writes this into his library, and laid before me two or three vol- umes of manuscript year-books, such as, since he began to travel and to observe, he has been in the habit of keeping. Every night, in the course of his rambles, his highness the Sultan (indeed, his port is sublime, as, for the matter of that, are all the wines in his cellar) sets down with an iron pen, and in the neatest handwriting in the world, the events and observations of the day ; with the same iron pen he illuminates the leaf of his journal by the most faith- ful and delightful sketches of the scenery which he has witnessed in the course of the four-and-twenty hours ; and if he has dined at an inn or restaurant, gasthaus, posada, albergo, or what not, invariably inserts into his log-book the bill of fare. The Sultan leads a jolly life, a tall, stalwart man, who every day about six o'clock in London and Paris, at two in Italy, in Germany and Belgium at an 1 A 2 MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. hour after noon, feels the noble calls of hunger agitating his lordly bosom (or its neighborhood, that is), and replies to the call by a good dinner. Ah ! it is wonderful to think how the healthy and philosophic mind can accommodate itself in all cases to the varying circumstances of the time, how, in its travels through the world, the liberal and cosmopolite stomach recognizes the national dinner-hour ! Depend upon it that, in all countries, nature has wisely ordained and suited to their exigencies THE DISHES OF A PEOPLE. I mean to say that olla podrida is good in Spain (though a plateful of it, eaten in Paris, once made me so dreadfully ill that it is a mercy I was spared ever to eat another dinner), I mean to say, and have proved it, that sauer-kraut is good in Germany; and I make no doubt that whale's blubber is a very tolerable dish in Kamschat- ka, though I have never visited the country. Cannibalism in the South Seas, and sheepsheadism in Scotland, are the only practices that one cannot, perhaps, reconcile with this rule, at least, whatever a man's private opinions may be, the decencies of society oblige him to eschew the expres- sion of them, upon subjects which the national prejudice has precluded from free discussion. Well, after looking through three or four of Saladin's volumes, I grew so charmed with them that I used to come back every day and study them. I declare there are bills of fare in those books over which I have cried ; and the reading of them, especially about an hour before dinner, has made me so ferociously hungry, that, in the first place, the Sultan (a kind-hearted, generous man, as every man is who loves his meals) could not help inviting me to take potluck with him ; and, secondly, I could eat twice as much as upon common occasions, though my ap- petite is always good. MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. 3 Lying awake, then, of nights, or wandering solitary abroad on wide commons, or by the side of silent rivers, or at church when Dr. Snufflem was preaching his favor- ite sermon, or stretched on the flat of my back smoking a cigar at the club when X was talking of the corn-laws, or Y was describing that famous run they had with the Z hounds, at all periods, I say, favorable to self-examina- tion, those bills of fare have come into my mind, and often and often I have thought them over. " Titmarsh," I have said to myself, " if ever you travel again, do as the Sultan has done, and keep your dinner-bills. They are always pleasant to look over ; they always will recall happy hours and actions, be you ever so hard pushed for a dinner, and fain to put up with an onion and a crust : of the past fate cannot deprive you. Yesterday is the philosopher's prop- erty ; and by thinking of it, and using it to advantage, he may gayly go through to-morrow, doubtful and dismal though it be. Try this lamb stuffed with pistachio-nuts ; another handful of this pillau. Ho, you rascals! bring round the sherbet there, and never spare the jars of wine, 'tis true Persian, on the honor of a Barmecide!" Is not that dinner in the "Arabian Nights" a right good dinner ? Would you have had Bedreddin to refuse and turn sulky at the windy repast, or to sit down grinning in the face of his grave entertainer, and gayly take what came ? Remember what came of the honest fellow's phi- losophy. He slapped the grim old prince in the face; and the grim old prince, who had invited him but to laugh at him, did presently order a real and substantial repast to be set before him, great pyramids of smoking rice and pillau (a good pillau is one of the best dishes in the world), savory kids, snow-cooled sherbets, luscious wine of Schiraz ; with an accompaniment of moon-faced 4 MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. beauties from the harem, no doubt, dancing, singing, and smiling in the most ravishing manner. Thus should we, my dear friends, laugh at Fate's beard, as we confront him, thus should we, if the old monster be insolent, fall to and box his ears. He has a spice of humor in his composition ; and be sure he will be tickled by such con- duct. Some months ago, when the expectation of war be- tween England and France grew to be so strong, and there was such a talk of mobilizing national guards, and arming three or four hundred thousand more French sol- diers, when such ferocious yells of hatred against per- fidious Albion were uttered by the liberal French press, that I did really believe the rupture between the two countries was about immediately to take place ; being seriously alarmed, I set off for Paris at once. My good sir, what could we do without our Paris ? I came here first in 1815 (when the Duke and I were a good deal re- marked by the inhabitants) ; I proposed but to stay a week; stopped three months, and have returned every year since. There is something fatal in the place, a charm about it, a wicked one very likely, but it acts on us all ; and perpetually the old Paris man comes hie- ing back to his quarters again, and is to be found, as usual, sunning himself in the Rue de la Paix. Painters, princes, gormands, officers on half-pay, serious old ladies even acknowledge the attraction of the place, are more at ease here than in any other place in Europe; and back they come, and are to be found sooner or later occupying their old haunts. My darling city improves, too, with each visit, and has some new palace, or church, or statue, or other gimcrack, to greet your eyes withal. A few years since, and lo ! MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. 5 on the column of the Place Vendome, instead of the shabby tri-colored rag, shone the bronze statue of Napoleon. Then came the famous triumphal arch ; a noble building indeed ! how stately and white and beautiful and strong it seems to dominate over the whole city. Next was the obelisk; a huge bustle and festival being made to wel- come it to the city. Then came the fair asphaltum ter- races round about the obelisk ; then the fountains to dec- orate the terraces. I have scarcely been twelve months absent, and behold they have gilded all the Naiads and Tritons ; they have clapped a huge fountain in the very midst of the Champs Elysees, a great, glittering, froth- ing fountain, that to the poetic eye looks like an enormous shaving-brush ; and all down the avenue they have placed hundreds of gilded, flaring gas-lamps, that make this gay- est walk in the world look gayer still than ever. But a truce to such descriptions, which might carry one far, very far, from the object proposed in this paper. I simply wish to introduce to public notice a brief din- ner-journal. It has been written with the utmost honesty and simplicity of purpose ; and exhibits a picture or table of the development of the human mind under a series of gastronomic experiments, diversified in their nature, and diversified, consequently, in their effects. A man in Lon- don has not, for the most part, the opportunity to make these experiments. You are a family man, let us pre- sume, and you live in that metropolis for half a century. You have on Sunday say, a leg of mutton and potatoes for dinner. On Monday you have cold mutton and potatoes. On Tuesday, hashed mutton and potatoes ; the hashed mut- ton being flavored with little damp, triangular pieces of toast, which always surround that charming dish. Well, on Wednesday, the mutton ended, you have beef ; the beef 6 MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. undergoes the same alternations of cookery, and disappears. Your life presents a succession of joints, varied every now and then by a bit of fish and some poultry. You drink three glasses of a brandyfied liquor called sherry at dinner ; your excellent lady imbibes one. When she has had her glass of port after dinner, she goes up stairs with the chil- dren, and you fall asleep in your arm-chair. Some of the most pure and precious enjoyments of life are unknown to you. You eat and drink, but you do not know the art of eating and drinking ; nay, most probably you despise those who do. " Give me a slice of meat," say you, very likely, " and a fig for your gourmands." You fancy it is very virtuous and manly all this. Nonsense, my good sir ; you are indifferent because you are ignorant, because your life is passed in a narrow circle of ideas, and because you are bigotedly blind and pompously callous to the beau- ' ties and excellences beyond you. Sir, RESPECT YOUR DINNER ; idolize it, enjoy it prop- erly. You will be by many hours in the week, many weeks in the year, and many years in your life, the hap- pier if you do. Don't tell us that it is not worthy of a man. All a man's senses are worthy of employment, and should be cultivated as a duty. The senses are the arts. What glorious feasts does Nature prepare for your eye in ani- mal form in landscape and painting ! Are you to put out your eyes and not see? What royal dishes of melody does her bounty provide for you in the shape of poetry, music, whether windy or wiry, notes of the human voice, or ravishing song of birds ! Are you to stuff your ears with cotton, and vow that the sense of hearing is unman- ly ? you obstinate dolt you ! No, surely ; nor must you be so absurd as to fancy that the art of eating is ia MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. 7 any way less worthy than the other two. You like your dinner, man ; never be ashamed to say so. If you don't like your victuals, pass on to the next article; but re- member that every man who has been worth a fig in this world, as poet, painter, or musician, has had a good appe- tite and a good taste. Ah, what a poet Byron would have been had he taken his meals properly, and allowed himself to grow fat, if nature intended him to grow fat, and not have physicked his intellect with wretched opium pills and acrid vinegar, that sent his principle to sleep, and turned his feelings sour I If that man had re- spected his dinner, he never would have written " Don Juan." Allans done ! enough sermonizing ; let us sit down and fall to at once. I dined soon after my arrival at a very pleasant Paris club, where daily is provided a dinner for ten persons, that is universally reported to be excellent. Five men in England would have consumed the same amount of victuals, as you will see by the bills of fare : Desserts of cheese. Pears and Fontainebleau grapes. Bordeaux red, and excellent chablis at discretion. This dinner was very nicely served. A venerable maitre d'hotel in black, cutting up neatly the dishes on a trencher at the side-table, and several waiters attending 8 MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING- in green coats, red plush tights, and their hair curled. There was a great quantity of light in the room ; some handsome pieces of plated ware ; the pheasants came in with their tails to their backs ; and the smart waiters, with their hair dressed and parted down the middle, gave a pleasant, lively, stylish appearance to the whole affair. Now I certainly dined (by the way, I must not forget to mention that we had with the beef some boiled kidney potatoes, very neatly dished up in a napkin), I certainly dined, I say ; and half an hour afterwards felt, perhaps, more at my ease than I should have done had I consulted my own inclinations, and devoured twice the quantity that on this occasion came to my share. But I would rather, as a man not caring for appearances, dine, as a general rule, off a beefsteak for two at the Cafe Foy, than sit down to take a tenth part of such a meal every day. There was only one man at the table besides your humble servant who did not put water into his wine ; and he I mean the other was observed by his friends, who exclaimed, " Comment vous buvez sec," as if to do so was a wonder. The consequence was, that half a dozen bottles of wine served for the whole ten of us ; and the guests, having despatched their dinner in an hour, skipped lightly away from it, did not stay to ruminate and to feel uneasy, and to fiddle about the last and penultimate waist- coat button, as we do after a house-dinner at an English club. What was it that made the charm of this dinner ? for pleasant it was. It was the neat and comfortable manner in which it was served ; the pheasant-tails had a considerable effect; that snowy napkin coquettishly ar- ranged round the kidneys gave them a distingue air ; the light and the glittering service gave an appearance of plenty and hospitality that sent everybody away contented. MEMOKIALS OF GORMANDIZING. 9 I put down this dinner just to show English and Scotch housekeepers what may be done, and for what price. Say, s. d. Soup and fresh bread | Imecost ^ g fi Beef and carrots . O Fowls and sauce .... 3 6 Pheasants (hens) 50 Grapes, pears, cheese, vegetables . 3 14 For fifteen pence par tete, a company of ten persons may have a dinner set before them, nay, and be made to fancy that they dine well, provided the service is hand- somely arranged, that you have a good stock of side-dishes, &c., in your plate-chest, and don't spare the spermaceti. As for the wine, that depends on yourself. Always be crying out to your friends, " Mr. So-and-so, I don't drink myself, but pray pass the bottle. Tomkins, my boy, help your neighbor, and never mind me. What ! Hop- kins, are there two of us on the Doctor's list ? Pass the wine ; Smith I 'm sure won't refuse it " ; and so on. A very good plan is to have the butler (or the fellow in the white waistcoat, who "behaves as sich") pour out the wine when wanted (in half-glasses, of course), and to make a deuced great noise and shouting, "John, John, why the devil, sir, don't you help Mr. Simkins to an- other glass of wine ? " If you point out Simkins once or twice in this way, depend upon it, he won't drink a great quantity of your liquor. You may thus keep your friends from being dangerous by a thousand innocent manoeuvres; and, as I have said before, you .may very probably make them believe that they have had a famous dinner. There was only one man in our company of ten the other day 1* 10 MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. who ever thought that he had not dined ; and what was he ? A foreigner, a man of a discontented, inquiring spirit, always carping at things, and never satisfied. Well, next day I dined au cinquieme with a family (of Irish extraction, by the way), and what do you think was our dinner for six persons ? Why, simply, Nine dozen Ostend oysters ; Soup a la mulligatawny ; Boiled turkey, with celery sauce ; Saddle of mutton roti. Removes. Plompouding ; croute de macaroni. Vin Beaune ordinaire, volnay, bordeaux, champagne, eau chaude, cognac. I forget the dessert. Alas ! in moments of prosperity and plenty, one is often so forgetful : I remembered the dessert at the Cercle well enough. A person whom they call in this country an illustration litterairC) the editor of a newspaper, in fact, with a very pretty wife, were of the party, and looked at the dinner with a great deal of good-humored superiority. I declare, upon my honor, that I helped both the illustra- tion and his lady twice to saddle of mutton ; and as for the turkey and celery sauce, you should have seen how our host dispensed it to them! They ate the oysters, they ate the soup (" Diable ! mais il est poivre ! " said the illustration, with tears in his eyes), they ate the turkey, they ate the mutton, they ate the pudding ; and what did our hostess say? Why, casting down her eyes gently, and with the modestest air in the world, she said, " There is such a beautiful piece of cold beef in the larder ; do somebody ask for a little slice of it." Heaven bless her for that speech! I loved and re- spected her for it ; it brought the tears to my eyes. A MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. 11 man who could sneer at such a sentiment could have neither heart nor good-breeding. Don't you see that it shows Simplicity, Modesty, Hospitality. Put these against Waiters with their hair curled, Pheasants roasted with their tails on, A dozen spermaceti candles. Add them up, I say, O candid reader, and answer, in the sum of human happiness, which of the two accounts makes the better figure ? I declare, I know few things more affecting than that little question about the cold beef; and considering calmly our national characteristics, balancing in the scale of quiet thought our defects and our merits, am daily more in- clined to believe that there is something in the race of Britons which renders them usually superior to the French family. This is but one of the traits of English charac- ter that has been occasioned by the use of roast beef. It is an immense question, that of diet. Look at the two bills of fare just set down, the relative consumption of ten animals and of six. What a profound physical and moral difference may we trace here. How distinct, from the cradle upwards, must have been the thoughts, feelings, education of the parties who ordered those two dinners. It is a fact which does not admit of a ques- tion, that the French are beginning, since so many Eng- lish have come among them, to use beef much more pro- fusely. Everybody at the restaurateur's orders beefsteak and pommes. Will the national character slowly undergo a change under the influence of this dish? W T ill the 12 MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. French be more simple ? broader in the shoulders ? less inclined to brag about military glory and such humbug ? All this in the dark vista of futurity the spectator may fancy is visible to him, and the philanthropist cannot but applaud the change. This brings me naturally to the consideration of the manner of dressing beefsteaks in this country, and of the merit of that manner. I dined on a Saturday at the Cafe Foy, on the Boule- vard, in a private room, with a friend. We had Potage julienne, with a little puree in it ; Two entrecotes aux epinards ; One perdreau truffe ; One fromage roquefort ; A bottle of nuits with the beef; A bottle of sauterne with the partridge. And perhaps a glass of punch, with a cigar, afterwards : but that is neither here nor there. The insertion of the puree into the julienne was not of my recommending; and if this junction is effected at all, the operation should be performed with the greatest care. If you put too much puree, both soups are infallibly spoiled. A much better plan it is to have your julienne by itself, though I will not enlarge on this point, as the excellent friend with whom I dined may chance to see this notice, and may be hurt at the renewal in print of a dispute which caused a good deal of pain to both of us. By the way, we had half a dozen sardines while the dinner was getting ready, eating them with delicious bread and butter, for which this place is famous. Then followed the soup. Why the deuce would he have the pu ; but never mind. After the soup, we had what I do not hesitate to call the very best beefsteak I ever ate in my life. By the shade of Helio gabalus ! as I write about it now, a week after I have MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. 13 eaten it, the old, rich, sweet, piquant, juicy taste comes smacking on my lips again ; and I feel something of that exquisite sensation I then had. I am ashamed of the de- light which the eating of that piece of meat caused me. G. and I had quarrelled about the soup (I said so, and don't wish to return to the subject) ; but when we began on the steak, we looked at each other, and loved each other. We did not speak, our hearts were too full for that ; but we took a bit, and laid down our forks, and looked at one another and understood each other. There were no two individuals on this wide earth, no two lov- ers billing in the shade, no mother clasping baby to her heart, more supremely happy than we. Every now and then we had a glass of honest, firm, generous Burgundy, that nobly supported the meat. As you may fancy, we did not leave a single morsel of the steak ; but when it was done, we put bits of bread into the silver dish, and wist- fully sopped up the gravy. I suppose I shall never in this world taste anything so good again. But what then ? What if I did like it excessively ? Was my liking unjust or unmanly ? Is my regret now puling or unworthy ? No. " Laudo manentem!" as Titmouse says. When it is eaten, I resign myself, and can eat a two-franc dinner at Richard's without ill humor and without a pang. Any dispute about the relative excellence of the beef- steak cut from the filet, as is usual in France, and of the entrecote, must henceforth be idle and absurd. When- ever, my dear young friend, you go to Paris, call at once for the entrecote ; the filet in comparison to it is a poor fade lady's meat. What folly, by the way, is that in England which induces us to attach an estimation to the part of the sirloin that is called the Sunday side, poor, tender, stringy stuff, not comparable to the manly meat 14 MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. on the other side, handsomely garnished with crisp fat, and with a layer of horn ! Give the Sunday side to misses and ladies' maids, for men be the Monday's side, or, better still, a thousand-fold more succulent and full of flavor, the ribs of beef. This is the meat I would eat were I going to do battle with any mortal foe. Fancy a hundred thousand Englishmen, after a meal of stalwart beef ribs, encountering a hundred thousand Frenchmen, who had partaken of a trifling collation of soup, turnips, carrots, onions, and Gruyere cheese. Would it be manly to engage at such odds ? I say no. Passing by Verey's one day, I saw a cadaverous cook with a spatula, thumping a poor beefsteak with all his might. This is not only a horrible cruelty, but an error. They not only beat the beef, moreover, but they soak it in oil. Absurd, disgusting barbarity ! Beef so beaten loses its natural spirit ; it is too noble for corporal punish- ment. You may by these tortures and artifices make it soft and greasy, but tender and juicy never. The landlord of the Cafe de Foy (I have received no sort of consideration from him) knows this truth full well, and follows the simple, honest plan ; first, to have good meat, and next to hang it a long time. I have instructed him how to do the steaks to a turn ; not raw, horribly livid and blue in the midst, as I have seen great flaps of meat (what a shame to think of our fine meat being so treated!), but cooked all the way through. Go to the Cafe" Foy then, ask for a BEEFSTEAK A LA TITMARSH, and you will see what a dish will be set before you. I have dwelt upon this point at too much length, perhaps, for some of my readers ; but it can't be helped. The truth is, beef is my weakness ; and I do declare, that I derive more positive enjoyment from the simple viand than from MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. 15 any concoction whatever in the whole cook's cyclopae- dia. Always drink red wine with beefsteaks ; port, if pos- sible ; if not, Burgundy, of not too high a flavor, good beaune say. This fact, which is very likely not known to many persons who, forsooth, are too magnificent to care about their meat and drink, this simple fact I take to be worth the whole price I shall get for this ar- ticle. But to return to dinner. We were left, I think, G. and I, sopping up the gravy with bits of bread, and de- claring that no power on earth could induce us to eat a morsel more that day. At one time we thought of coun- termanding the perdreau aux truffes, that to my certain knowledge had been betruffed five days before. Poor blind mortals that we were ! ungrateful to our appetites, needlessly mistrustful and cowardly. A man may do what he dares ; nor does he know, until he tries, what the honest appetite will bear. We were kept wait- ing between the steak and the partridge some ten minutes or so. For the first two or three minutes, we lay back in our chairs quiet, exhausted indeed. Then we began to fiddle with a dish of toothpicks, for want of anything more savory ; then we looked out of the window ; then G. got in a rage, rung the bell violently, and asked, " Pourquoi diable nous fait on attendre si long temps ? " The waiter grinned. He is a nice, good-humored fellow, Auguste ; and I heartily trust that some reader of this may give him a five-franc piece for my sake. Auguste grinned and disappeared. Presently, we were aware of an odor gradually coming towards us, something musky, fiery, savory, mysterious, a hot, drowsy smell, that lulls the senses, and yet in- 16 MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. flames them, the troubles were coming ! Yonder they lie, caverned under the full bosom of the red-legged bird. My hand trembled as, after a little pause, I cut the ani- mal in two. G. said I did not give him his share of the troufles ; I don't believe I did. I spilled some salt into my plate, and a little cayenne pepper, very little : we began, as far as I can remember, the following conver- sation : Gustavus. " Chop, chop, chop." Michael Angela. Globlobloblob." G. "Gobble." M. A. "Obble." G. " Here 's a big one." M. A. " Hobgob. What wine shall we have ? I should like some champagne." G. " It 's bad here. Have some sauterne." % M. A. " Very well. Hobgobglobglob," &c. Auguste (opening the sauterne). " Cloo-oo-oo-oop ! " The cork is out ; he pours it into the glass, glock, glock, glock. Nothing more took place in the way of talk. The poor little partridge was soon a heap of bones, a very little heap. A trufflesque odor was left in the room, but only an odor. Presently the cheese was brought: the amber sauterne flask had turned of a sickly green hue ; nothing save half a glass of sediment at the bottom, re- mained to tell of thg light and social spirit that had but one half-hour before inhabited the flask. Darkness fell upon our little chamber; the men in the street began crying, " Messager I Journal du Soir!" The bright moon rose glittering over the tiles of the Rue Louis de Grand, opposite, illuminating two glasses of punch that two gentlemen in a small room of the Cafe" de Foy did MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. 17 ever and anon raise to their lips. Both were silent ; both happy ; both were smoking cigars, for both knew that the soothing plant of Cuba is sweeter to the philosopher after dinner than the prattle of all the women in the world. Women, pshaw ! The man, who, after dinner, after a good dinner, can think about driving home, and shav- ing himself by candle-light, and enduing a damp shirt, and a pair of tight glazed pumps to show his cobweb stockings, and set his feet in a flame ; and, having under- gone all this, can get into a cold cab and drive off to No. 222 Harley Street, where Mrs. Mortimer Smith is at home ; where you take off your cloak in a damp, dark back parlor, called Mr. Smith's study, and containing, when you arrive, twenty-four ladies' cloaks and tippets, fourteen hats, two pair of clogs (belonging to two gentle- men of the Middle Temple, who walk for economy, and think dancing at Mrs. Mortimer Smith's the height of en- joyment) ; the man who can do all this, and walk, grace- fully smiling, into Mrs. Smith's drawing-rooms, where the brown holland bags have been removed from the chandeliers ; a man from Kirkman's is thumping on the piano, and Mrs. Smith is standing simpering in the mid- dle of the room, dressed in red, with a bird of paradise in her turban, a tremulous fan in one hand, and the other clutching hold of her little fat gold watch and seals ; the man who, after making his bow to Mrs. Smith, can advance to Miss Jones, in blue crajte, and lead her to a place among six other pairs of solemn-looking persons, and whisper fadaisies to her (at which she cries, " fie, you naughty man ! how can you ? "), and look at Miss Smith's red shoulders struggling out of her gown, and her mottled elbows that a pair of crumpled kid gloves leave in a state of delicious nature ; and, after having 18 MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. gone through certain mysterious quadrille figures with her, lead her back to her mamma, who has just seized a third glass of muddy negus from the black footman; the man who can do all this may do it, and go hang, for me ! And many such men there be, my Gustavus, in yonder dusky London city. Be it ours, my dear friend, when the day's labor and repast are done, to lie and ruminate calmly ; to watch the bland cigar-smoke as it rises gently ceiling- wards ; to be idle in body as well as mind ; not to kick our heels madly in quadrilles, and puff and pant in senseless gallopades ; let us appreciate the joys of idle- ness ; let us give a loose to silence ; and having enjoyed this, the best dessert after a goodly dinner, at close of eve, saunter slowly home. * * # # As the dinner above described drew no less than three franc pieces out of my purse, I determined to economize for the next few days, and either to be invited out to din- ner, or else to partake of some repast at a small charge, such as one may have here. I had on the day succeeding the troufled partridge a dinner for a shilling, viz. : Bifsteck aux pommes (heu quantum mutatus ab illo !) Galantine de volaille, Fromage de Gruyere, Demie-bouteille du vin tres-vieux de macon on chablis, Pain a discretion. This dinner, my J'oung friend, was taken about half past two o'clock in the day, and was, in fact, a breakfast, a breakfast taken at a two-franc house, in the Rue Heure Vivienne ; it was certainly a sufficient dinner : I certainly was not hungry for all the rest of the day. Nay, the wine was decently good, as almost all wine is in the morning, if one had the courage or the power to MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. 19 drink it. You see many honest English families march- ing into these two-franc eating-houses at five o'clock, and fancying they dine in great luxury. Returning to Eng- land, however, they inform their friends that the meat in France is not good ; that the fowls are very small, and black ; the kidneys very tough ; the partridges and fruit have no taste in them ; and the soup is execrably thin. A dinner at Williams's, in the Old Bailey, is better than the best of these ; and therefore had the English Cockney better remain at Williams's, than judge the great nation so falsely. The worst of these two-franc establishments is a horrid air of shabby elegance which distinguishes them. At some of them they will go the length of changing your knife and fork with every dish ; they have grand chimney- glasses, and a fine lady at the counter, and fine arabesque paintings on the walls ; they give you your soup in a battered dish of plated ware, which has served its best time, most likely, in a first-rate establishment, and comes here to etaler its second-hand splendor amongst amateurs of a lower grade. I fancy the very meat that is served to you has undergone the same degradation, and that some of the mouldy cutlets that are offered to the two- franc epicures lay once plump and juicy in Verey's larder. Much better is the sanded floor and the iron fork ! Homely neatness is the charm of poverty: elegance should belong to wealth alone. There is a very decent place where you dine for thirty-two sous in the Passage Choiseuil. You get your soup in china bowls ; they don't change your knife and fork, but they give you very fit por- tions of meat and potatoes, and mayhap a herring with mustard sauce, a dish of apple fritters, a dessert of stewed prunes, and a pint of drinkable wine, as I have proved only yesterday. 20 MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. After two such banyan days, I allowed myself a little feasting ; and as nobody persisted in asking me to dinner, I went off to the Trois Freres by myself, and dined in that excellent company. I would recommend a man who is going to dine by him- self here, to reflect well before he orders soup for dinner. My notion is, that you eat as much after soup as with- out it, but you don't eat with the same appetite. Especially if you are a healthy man, as I am, deuced hungry at five o'clock. My appetite runs away with me ; and if I order soup (which is always enough for two), I invariably swallow the whole of it ; and the greater por- tion of my petit pain, too, before my second dish arrives. The best part of a pint of Julienne or puree a la Con- de*, is very well for a man who has only one dish besides to devour ; but not for you and me, who like our fish and our roti of game or meat as well. Oysters you may eat. They do, for a fact, prepare one to go through the rest of a dinner properly. Lemon and cayenne pepper is the word, depend on it, .and a glass of white wine braces you up for what is to follow. French restaurateur dinners are intended, however, for two people, at least ; still better for three ; and require a good deal of thought before you can arrange them for one. Here, for instance, is a recent menu : Trois Freres Provenpeaux. f. o. Pain 25 Beaune premiere . . . . 30 Puree a la creci 75 Turbot aux capres . . . . 1 75 Quart poulet aux truffes . . . 2 25 Champignons a la Proven9ale . . 1 25 Gelee aux pommes . . . . . 1 25 Cognac 30 10 80 MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. 21 A heavy bill for a single man ; and a heavy dinner, too ; for I have said before I have a great appetite, and when a thing is put before me I eat it. At Brussels I once ate fourteen dishes; and have seen a lady, with whom I was in love, at the table of a German grand duke, eat seventeen dishes. This is a positive, though disgusting fact. Up to the first twelve dishes she had a very good chance of becoming Mrs. Titmarsh, but I have lost sight of her since. Well, then, I say to you, if you have self-command enough to send away half your soup, order some ; but you are a poor creature if you do, after all. If you are a man, and have not that self-command, don't have any. The Frenchmen cannot live without it, but I say to you that you are better than a Frenchman. I would lay even money that you who are reading this are more than five feet seven in height, and weigh eleven stone; while a Frenchman is five feet four and does not weigh nine. The Frenchman has after his soup a dish of vegetables, where you have one of meat. You are a difijrent and superior animal, a French-beating animal (the history of hundreds of years has shown you to be so) ; you must have to keep up that superior weight and sinew, which is the secret of your superiority, as for public institutions, bah ! you must have, I say, simpler, stronger, succu- lenter food. Eschew the soup, then, and have the fish up at once. It is the best to begin with fish, if you like it, as every epicure and honest man should, simply boiled or fried in the English fashion, and not tortured and bullied with oil, onions, wine, and herbs, as in Paris it is frequently done. Turbot with lobster-sauce is too much; turbot a la 22 MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. ffollandaise vulgar; sliced potatoes swimming in melted butter are a mean concomitant for a noble, simple, liberal fish: turbot with capers is the thing. The brisk little capers relieve the dulness of the turbot ; the melted but- ter is rich, bland, and calm, it should be, that is to say ; not that vapid, watery mixture that I see in London ; not oiled butter, as the Hollanders have it, but melted with plenty of thickening matter : I don't know how to do it, but I know it when it is good. They melt butter well at the Rocher de Caucale, and at the Freres. Well, this turbot was very good; not so well, of course, as one gets it in London, and dried rather in the boiling ; which can't be helped, unless you are a Lucul- lus or a Camba^eres of a man, and can afford to order one for yourself. This grandeur d'dme is very rare ; my friend, Tom Willows, is almost the only man I know who possessed it. Yes, * * *, one of the wittiest men in London, I once knew to take the whole interieur of a diligence (six places), because he was a little unwell. Ever since I have admired that man. He understands true economy; a mean, extravagant man would have contented himself with a single place, and been unwell in consequence. How I am rambling from my subject, however. The fish was good, and I ate up every single scrap of it, sucking the bones and fins curiously. That is the deuce of an appetite, it must be satisfied ; and if you were to put a roast donkey before me, with the promise of a haunch of venison afterwards, I believe I should eat the greater part of the long-eared animal. A pint of puree a la creci, a pain de gruau, a slice of turbot, a man should think about ordering his bill, for he has had enough dinner ; but no, we are creatures of MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. 23 superstition and habit, and must have one regular course of meat. Here comes the poulet a la Marengo : I hope they 've given me the wing. No such thing. The' poulet a la Marengo aux tniffes is bad, too oily by far ; the truffles are not of this year as they should be, for there are cart-loads in town : they are poor in flavor, and have only been cast into the dish a minute before it was brought to table, and what is the consequence ? They do not flavor the meat in the least ; some faint trufflesque savor you may get as you are crunching each individual root, but that is all, and that all not worth the having ; for as nothing is finer than a good truffle, in like manner nothing is meaner than a bad one. It is merely pompous, windy, and pretentious, like those scraps of philosophy with which a certain emi- nent novelist decks out his meat. A mushroom, thought I, is better a thousand times than these tough, flavorless roots. I finished every one of them, however, and the fine, fat capon's thigh, which they surrounded. It was a disappointment not to get a wing, to be sure. They always give me legs ; but after all, with a little good-humor and philosophy, a leg of a fine Mans capon may be found very acceptable. How plump and tender the rogue's thigh is ! his very drum- stick is as fat as the calf of a London footman ; and the sinews which puzzle one so over the lean, black hen-legs in London, are miraculously whisked away from the limb before me. Look at it now ! Half a dozen cuts with the knife, and yonder lies the bone, white, large, stark naked, without a morsel of flesh left upon it, soli- tary in the midst of a pool of melted butter. How good the Burgundy smacks after it ! I always drink Burgundy at this house, and that not of the best 24 MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. It is my firm opinion that a third-rate Burgundy, and a third-rate claret, Beaune and Larose for instance, are letter than the best. The Bordeaux enlivens, the Bur- gundy invigorates : stronger drink only inflames ; and where a bottle of good Beaune only causes a man to feel a certain manly warmth of benevolence, a glow some- thing like that produced by sunshine and gentle exercise, a bottle of Chambertin will set all your frame in a, fever, swells the extremities, and causes the pulses to throb. Chambertin should never be handed round more than twice ; and I recollect to this moment the headache I had after drinking a bottle and a half of Romanee- Gelee, for which this house is famous. Somebody else paid for the (no other than you, O Gustavus ! with whom I hope to have many a tall dinner on the same charges) but 't was in our hot youth, ere experience had taught us that moderation was happiness, and had shown us that it is absurd to be guzzling wine at fifteen francs a bottle. By the way, I may here mention a story relating to some of Blackwood's men, who dined at this very house. Fancy the fellows trying claret, which they voted sour ; then Burgundy, at which they made wry faces, and fin- ished the evening with brandy and lunel! This is what men call eating a French dinner. Willows and I dined at the Rocher, and an English family there feeding or- dered mutton-chops and potatoes. Why not, in these cases, stay at home ? Chops is better chops in England (the best chops in the world are to be had at the Reform Club) than in France. What would literary men mean by ordering lunel ? I always rather liked the descrip- tions of eating in the Nodes. They were gross in all cases, absurdly erroneous, in many ; but there was a MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. 25 manliness about them, and strong evidence of a great, though misdirected and uneducated, genius for victuals. Mushrooms, thought I, are better than these tasteless truffles, and so ordered a dish to try. You know what a Provengale sauce is, I have no doubt ? a rich, savory mixture, of garlic and oil ; which, with a little cayenne pepper and salt, impart a pleasant taste to the plump little mushrooms, that can't be described but may be thought of with pleasure. The only point was, how will they agree with me to- morrow morning? for the fact is, I had eaten an im- mense quantity of them, and began to be afraid ! Sup- pose we go and have a glass of punch and a cigar ? O, glorious garden of the Palais Royal ! your trees are leaf- less now, but what matters ? Your alleys are damp, ,but what of that ? All the windows are blazing with light and merriment ; at least two thousand happy people are pacing up and down the colonnades; cheerful sounds of money chinking are heard as you pass the changers* shops; bustling shouts of gargon, and Via monsieur! come from the swinging doors of the restaurateurs. Look at that group of soldiers gaping at Vefour's win- dow, where lie lobsters, pine-apples, fat truffle-stuffed partridges, which make me almost hungry again. I won- der whether those three fellows with mustachios and a toothpick apiece have had a dinner, or only a toothpick. When the Trois Freres used to be on the first floor, and had a door leading into the Rue de Valois, as well as one into the garden, I recollect seeing three men with tooth- picks mount the stair from the street, descend the stair into the garden, and give themselves as great airs as if they had dined for a napoleon a head. The rogues are lucky if they have had a sixteen sous dinner ; and the * 26 MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. next time I dine abroad, I am resolved to have one my- self. I never understood why Gil Bias grew so mighty squeamish in the affair of the cat and the hare. Hare is best, but why should not cat be good ? Being on the subject of bad dinners, I may as well ease my mind of one that occurred to me some few days back. When walking in the Boulevard, I met my friend, Captain Hopkinson, of the half-pay, looking very hungry, and indeed going to dine. In most cases one respects the dictum of a half-pay officer regarding a dining-house. He knows as a general rule where the fat of the land lies, and how to take his share of that fat in the most economi- cal manner. " I tell you what I do," says Hopkinson ; " I allow my- self fifteen franc a week for dinner (I count upon being asked out twice a week), and so have a three-franc dinner at Richard's, where, for the extra franc, they give me an excellent bottle of wine, and make me comfortable." " Why should n't they ? " I thought. " Here is a man who has served his king and country, and no doubt knows a thing when he sees it." We made a party of four, therefore, and went to the captain's place to dine. We had a private room au second; a very damp and dirty private room, with a faint odor of stale punch, and dingy glasses round the walls. We had a soup of puree aux crouton ; a very dingy, dubious soup, indeed ; thickened, I fancy, with brown paper, and flavored with the same. At the end of the soup Monsieur Landlord came up stairs very kindly, and gave us each a pinch of snuff out of a gold snuff-box. We had four portions of anguille & la tartare, very good and fresh (it is best in these places to eat fresh-water MEMOEIALS OF GORMANDIZING. 27 fish). Each portion was half the length of a man's finger. Dish one was despatched in no time, and we began drink- ing the famous wine that our guide recommended. I have cut him ever since. It was four-sous wine, weak, vapid, watery stuff, of the most unsatisfactory nature. We had four portions of gigot aux haricots, four flaps of bleeding, tough meat, cut unnaturally (that is, with the grain : the French gash the meat in parallel lines with the bone). We ate these up as we might, and the land- lord was so good as to come up again and favor us with a pinch from his gold box. With wonderful unanimity, as we were told the place was famous for civet de lievre, we ordered civet de lievre for four. It came up, but we could n't, really we could n't. We were obliged to have extra dishes, and pay extra. Gustavus had a mayonnaise of crayfish, and half a fowl; I fell to work upon my cheese as usual, and availed my- self of the discretionary bread. We went away disgusted, wretched, unhappy. We had had for our three francs bad bread, bad meat, bad wine. And there stood the landlord at the door (and be hanged to him !) grinning and offer- ing his box. We don't speak to Hopkinson any more now when we meet him. How can you trust or be friendly with a man who deceives you in this miserable way ? What is the moral to be drawn from this dinner ? It is evident. Avoid pretence ; mistrust shabby elegance ; cut your coat according to your cloth ; if you have but a few shillings in your pocket, aim only at those humble and honest meats which your small store will purchase. At the Cafe Foy, for the same money, I might have had 28 MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. f: s. A delicious entrecote and potatoes . . .15 A pint of excellent wine . . . . 015 A little bread (meaning a good deal) . .05 A dish of stewed kidneys . . . . 10 F~0 Or at Paolo's. A bread (as before) 05 A heap of macaroni, or ravioli . . . 015 A Milanese cutlet 10 A pint of wine 10 And ten sous for any other luxury your imagination could suggest. The ravioli and the cutlets are admira- bly dressed at Paolo's. Does any healthy man need more? These dinners, I am perfectly aware, are by no means splendid ; and I might, with the most perfect ease, write you out a dozen bills of fare, each more splendid and piquant than the other, in which all the luxuries of the season should figure. But the remarks here set down are the result of experience, not fancy, and intended only for persons in the middling classes of life. Very few men can afford to pay more than five francs daily for dinner. Let us calmly, then, consider what enjoyment may be had for those five francs ; how, by economy on one day, we may venture upon luxury the next ; how, by a little fore- thought and care, we may be happy on all days. Who knew and studied this cheap philosophy of life better than old Horace, before quoted ? Sometimes (when in luck) he cherupped over cups that were fit for an archbishop's supper ; sometimes he philosophized over his own ordi- naire at his own farm. How affecting is the last ode of the first book : MEMOKIALS OF GORMANDIZING. 29 TO HIS SERVING-BOY. Persicos odi, Puer, apparatus; Displicent nexss Philyra coronse : Mitte sectari Eosa quo locorum Sera moretur. Simplici myrto Nihil allabores Sedulus curte : Neque te ministrum Dedecet myrtus, Neque me sub arcta Vite bibentem. AD MINISTRAM. Dear Lucy, you know what my wish is, I hate all your Frenchified fuss : Your silly entries and made dishes Were never intended for us. No footman in lace and in ruffles Need dangle behind my arm-chair; And never mind seeking for truffles, Although they be ever so rare. But a plain leg of mutton, my Lucy, I pr'ythee get ready at three : Have it smoking, and tender, and juicy, And what better meat can there beV And when it has feasted the master, 'T will amply suffice for the maid; Meanwhile I will smoke my canaster, And tipple my ale in the shade. Not that this is the truth entirely and forever. - Ho- ratius Flaccus was too wise to dislike a good thing ; but it is possible that the Persian apparatus was on that day beyond his means, and so he contented himself with hu.m- ble fare. 30 MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. A gentleman, by the by, has just come to Paris, to whom I am very kind ; and who will, in all human prob- ability, between this and next month, ask me to a dinner at the Rocher de Caucale. If so, something may occur worth writing about ; or if you are anxious to hear more on the subject, send me over a sum to my address, to be laid out for you exclusively in eating. I give you my honor I will do you justice, and account for every farthing of it. One of the most absurd customs at present in use is that of giving your friend, when some piece of good luck happens to him, such as an appointment as Chief Judge of Owhyhee, or King's Advocate to Timbuctoo, of giving your friend, because, forsooth, he may have been suddenly elevated from 200 a-year to 2,000, an enormous dinner of congratulation. Last year, for instance, when our friend, Fred Jowling, got his place of Commissioner at Quashumaboo, it was considered absolutely necessary to give the man a dinner, and some score of us had to pay about fifty shillings a-piece for the purpose. I had, so help me, Moses ! but three guineas in the world at that period ; and out of this sum the bienseances compelled me to sacrifice five sixths, to feast myself in company of a man gorged with wealth, rattling sovereigns in his pocket as if they had been so much dross, and capable of treating us all without missing the sum he might expend on us. Jow himself allowed, as I represented the case to him, that the arrangement was very hard; but represented, fairly enough, that this was one of the sacrifices that a man of the world, from time to time, is called to make. " You, my dear Titmarsh," said he, know very well that I don't care for these grand entertainments " (the rogue, MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. 31 he is a five-bottle man, and just the most finished gourmet of my acquaintance !) ; " you know that I am perfectly convinced of your friendship for me, though you join in the dinner or not, but, it would look rather queer if you backed out, it would look rather queer? Jow said this in such an emphatic way, that I saw I must lay down my money ; and accordingly Mr. Lovegrove of Blackwall, for a certain quantity of iced punch, champagne, cider cup, fish, flesh, and fowl, received the last of my sovereigns. At the beginning of the year Bolter got a place too, Judge- Advocate in the Topinambo Islands, of 3,000 a-year, which he said was a poor remuneration in consid- eration of the practice which he gave up in town. He may have practised on his laundress, but for anything else I believe the man never had a client in his life. However, on his way to Topinambo by Marseilles, Egypt, the Desert, the Persian Gulf, and so on Bolter arrived in Paris ; and I saw from his appearance, and the manner of shaking hands with me, and the peculiar way in which he talked about the Rocher de Caucale, that he expected we were to give him a dinner, as we had to Jowling. There were four friends of Bolter's in the capital be- sides myself, and among us the dinner-question was mooted : we agreed that it should be a simple dinner of ten francs a head, and this was the bill of fare : 1. Oysters (common), nice. 2. Oysters, green of Marenne (very good). 8. Potage, puree de gibier (very fair). As we were English, they instantly then served us, 4. Sole en matelotte Normande (comme 9a). 5. Turbot a la creme au gratin (excellent). 6. Jardiniere cutlets (particularly seedy). 32 MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. 7. Poulet k la Marengo (very fair, but why the deuce is one always to be pestered by it ?). I (Entrees of some kind, but a blank in my memory). 10. A r6t of chevreuil. 11. Ditto of eperlans (very hot, crisp, and nice). 12. Ditto of partridges (quite good and plump). 13. Pointes d'asperges. 14. Champignons k la Proveneale (the most delicious mush- rooms I ever tasted). 15. Pine-apple jelly. 16. Blanc, or red mange. 1 7. Pencacks. Let everybody who goes to the Rocher or- der these pancakes ; they are arranged with jelly inside, rolled up between various couches of vermicilli, flavored with a leetle wine ; and, by everything sacred, the most delightful meat pos- sible. 18. Timballe of macaroni. The jellies and sucreries should have been mentioned in the dessert, and there were numberless plates of trifles, which made the table look very pretty, but need not be mentioned here. The dinner was not a fine one, as you see. No rari- ties, no troufles even, no mets de primeur, though there were peas and asparagus in the market at a pretty fair price. But with rarities no man has any business except he have a colossal fortune. Hot-house strawberries, as- paragus, &c., are, as far as my experience goes, most fade, mean, and tasteless meats. Much better to have a simple dinner of twenty dishes, and content therewith, than to look for impossible splendors and Apician morsels. In respect of wine. Let those who go to the Rocher take my advice and order Madeira. They have here some pale old East India very good. How they got it is MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. 33 a secret, for the Parisians do not know good Madeira when they see it. Some very fair strong young wine may be had at the Hotel des Americains, in the Rue St. Honors' ; as, indeed, all West India produce, pine-apple rum, for instance. I may say, with confidence, that I never knew what rum was until I tasted this at Paris. But to the Rocher. The Madeira was the best wine served ; though some Burgundy, handed round in the course of dinner, and a bottle of Montrachet, similarly poured out to us, were very fair. The champagne was decidedly not good, poor, inflated, thin stuff. They say the drink we swallow in England is not genuine wine, but brandy-loaded and otherwise doctored for the English market ; but, ah, what superior wine ! Au reste, the French will not generally pay the money for the wine ; and it therefore is carried from an ungrateful country to more generous climes, where it is better appreciated. We had claret and speeches after dinner ; and very possibly some of the persons present made free with a jug of hot water, a few lumps of sugar, and the horrid addition of a glass of cognac. There can be no worse practice than this. After a dinner of eighteen dishes, in which you have drunk at least thirty-six glasses of wine, when the stomach is full, the brain heavy, the hands and feet in- flamed, when the claret begins to pall, you, forsooth, must gorge yourself with brandy-and-water, and puff filthy cigars. For shame ! Who ever does it ? Does a gen- tleman drink brandy-and-water ? Does a man who mixes in the society of the loveliest half of humanity befoul him- self by tobacco smoke ? Fie, fie ! avoid the practice. I indulge in it always myself ; but that is no reason why you, a young man entering into the world, should degrade yourself in any such way. No, no, my dear lad, never 2* c 34 MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. refuse t an evening party, and avoid tobacco as you would the upas plant. 'By the way, not having my purse about me when the above dinner was given, I was constrained to borrow from Bolter, whom I knew more intimately than the rest ; and nothing grieved me more than to find, on calling at his hotel four days afterwards, that he had set off by the mail post for Marseilles. Friend of my youth, dear, dear Bol- ton ! if haply this trifling page should come before thine eyes, weary of perusing the sacred rolls of Themis in thy far-off island in the Indian Sea, thou wilt recall our little dinner in the little room of the Cancalian Coffee-House, and think for a while of thy friend ! Let us now mention one or two places that the Briton, on his arrival here, should frequent or avoid. As a quiet, dear house, where there are some of the best rooms in Paris always the best meat, fowls, vegetables, &c. -*- we may specially recommend Monsieur Voisin's cafe", oppo- site the church of the Assumption. A very decent and lively house of restauration is that at the corner of the Rue du Faubourg Montmartre, on the Boulevard. I never yet had a good dinner in my life at Vefour's ; some- thing is always manque at the place. The Grand Vattel is worthy of note, as cheap, pretty, and quiet. All the English houses gentlemen may frequent who are so in- clined ; but though the writer of this has many times dined for sixteen sous at Catcomb's, cheek by jowl with a French chasseur or a laborer, he has, he confesses, an an- tipathy to enter into the confidence of a footman or groom of his own country. A gentleman who purchases pictures in this town was lately waited upon by a lady, who said she had in her possession one of the greatest rarities in the world, a MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. 35 picture, admirable, too, as a work of art, no less than an original portrait of Shakespeare, by his comrade, the famous John Davis. The gentleman rushed off imme'di- ately to behold the wonder, and saw a head, rudely but vigorously painted on panel, about twice the size of life, with a couple of hooks drawn through the top part of the board, under which was written, THE WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE, BY JOHN DAVIS. " Voyez vous, Monsieur," said the lady ; " il n'y a plus de doute. Le portrait de Shakespeare du celebre Davis, et signe meme de lui ! " I remember it used to hang up in a silent little street in the Latin quarter, near an old convent, before a quaint old quiet tavern that I loved. It was pleasant to see the old name written up in a strange land, and the well- known friendly face greeting one. There was a quiet little garden at the back of the tavern, and famous good roast-beef, clean rooms, and English beer. Where are you now, John Davis ? Could not the image of thy au- gust patron preserve thy house from ruin, or rally the faithful around it ? Are you unfortunate, Davis ? Are you a bankrupt ? Let us hope not. I swear to thee, that when, one sunny afternoon, I first saw the ensign of thy tavern, I loved thee for the choice, and douced my cap on entering the porch, and looked around, and thought all friends were here. In the queer old pleasant novel of the Spiritual Quix- ote, honest Tugwell, the Sancho of the story, relates a Warwickshire legend, which at the time Graves wrote was not much more than a hundred years old ; and by which it appears that the owner of New Place was a 36 MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. famous jesting gentleman, and used to sit at his gate of summer evenings, cutting the queerest, merriest jokes with all the passers-by. I have heard from a Warwick- shire clergyman that the legend still exists in the coun- try ; and Ward's Diary says, that Master Shakespeare died of a surfeit, brought on by carousing with a literary friend who had come to visit him from London. And wherefore not ? Better to die of good wine and good company than of slow disease and doctor's doses. Some geniuses live on sour misanthropy, and some on meek milk-and-water. Let us not deal too hardly with those that are of a jovial sort, and indulge in the decent prac- tice of the cup and the platter. A word or two, by way of conclusion, may be said about the numerous pleasant villages in the neighborhood of Paris, or rather of the eating and drinking to be found in the taverns of those suburban spots. At Versailles, Monsieur Duboux, at the Hotel des Reservoirs, has a good cook and cellars, and will gratify you with a heavier bill than is paid at Verey's and the Rocher. On the beautiful terrace of Saint Germain, looking over miles of river and vineyard, of fair villages basking in the mead- ows, and.great tall trees stretching wide round about ; you may sit in the open air of summer evenings and see the white spires of Saint Denis rising in the distance, and the gray arches of Marly to the right, and before you the city of Paris with innumerable domes and towers. Watching these objects, and the setting sun gorgeously illumining the heavens and them, you may have an ex- cellent dinner served to you by the chef of Messire Gal- lois, who at present owns the pavilion where Louis XIV. was born. The maitre d'hotel is from the Rocher, and told us that he came out to St. Germain for the sake of MEMORIALS OF GORMANDIZING. 37 the air. The only drawback to the entertainment is, that the charges are as atrociously high in price as the dishes provided are small in quantity ; and dining at this pavil- ion on the loth of April, at a period when a botte of as- paragus at Paris cost only three francs, the writer of this and a chosen associate had to pay seven francs for about the third part of a botte of asparagus, served up to them by Messire Gallois. Facts like these ought not to go unnoticed. Therefore, let the readers of Fraser's Magazine who propose a visit to Paris, take warning by the unhappy fate of the person now addressing them, and avoid the place or not, as they think fit. A bad dinner does no harm to any human soul, and the philosopher partakes of such with easy res- ignation ; but a bad and dear dinner is enough to raise the anger of any man, however naturally sweet-tempered, and he is bound to warn his acquaintance of it. With one parting syllable in praise of the Marroniers at Bercy, where you get capital eels, fried gudgeons fresh from the Seine, and excellent wine of the ordinary kind, this discourse is here closed. " En telle ou meilleure pensee, Beuueurs ires illustres (car a vous non a aultres sont dedies ces escriptz) reconfortez vostre malheur, et beuuez fraiz si fair e se peult." MEN AND COATS. HERE is some peculiar influence, which no doubt the reader has remarked in his own case, for it has been sung by ten thousand poets, or versifying persons, whose ideas you adopt, if perchance, as is barely possible, you have none of your own, there is, I say, a certain balmy influence in the spring-time, which brings a rush of fresh dancing blood into the veins of all nature, and causes it to wear a peculiarly festive and sporting look. Look at the old Sun, how pale he was all the winter through ! Some days he was so cold and wretched he would not come out at all, he would not leave his bed till eight o'clock, and retired to rest, the old sluggard ! at four ; but, lo ! comes May, and he is up at five, he feels, like the rest of Us, the delicious vernal influence ; he is always walking abroad in the fresh air, and his jolly face lights up anew ! Remark the trees ; they have dragged through the shiv- ering winter time without so much as a rag to cover them, but about May they feel obligated to follow the mode, and come out in a new suit of green. The meadows, in like manner, appear invested with a variety of pretty spring fashions, not only covering their backs with a bran-new, glossy suit, but sporting a world of little coquettish, orna- mental gimcracks that are suited to the season. This one MEN AND COATS. 39 covers his robe with the most delicate twinkling white daisies ; that tricks himself out with numberless golden cowslips, or decorates his bosom with a bunch of dusky violets. Birds sing and make love ; bees wake and make honey ; horses and men leave off their shaggy winter clothing and turn out in fresh coats. The only animal that does not feel the power of spring, is that selfish, silent, and cold-blooded beast, the oyster, who shuts him- self up for. the best months of the year, and with whom the climate disagrees. Some people have wondered how it is that what is called " the season " in London should not begin until spring. What an absurd subject for wondering at ! How could the London season begin at any other time ? How could the great, black, bilious, overgrown city, stifled by gas, and fogs, and politics, ever hope to have a season at all, unless nature with a violent effort came to its aid about Easter time, and infused into it a little spring blood ? The town of London feels then the influences of the spring, and salutes it after its fashion. The parks are green for about a couple of months. Lady Smigsmag, and other leaders of the ton, give their series of grand parties ; Gunter and Grange come forward with iced- creams and champagnes ; ducks and green-pease burst out ; the river Thames blossoms with whitebait ; and Alder- man Birch announces the arrival of fresh, lively turtle. If there are no birds to sing and make love, as in coun- try places, at least there are coveys of opera girls that frisk and hop about airily, and Rubini and Lablache to act as a couple of nightingales. " A lady of fashion re- marked," says Dyson, in the Morning Post, " that for all persons pretending to hold a position in genteel society," I forget the exact words, but the sense of them remains 40 MEN AND COATS. indelibly engraven upon my mind, " for any one pre- tending to take a place in genteel society two things are indispensable. And what are these ? a BOUQUET AND AN EMBROIDERED POCKET-HANDKERCHIEF." This is a self-evident truth. Dyson does not furnish the bouquets, he is not a market-gardener, he is not the goddess Flora ; but, a town-man, he knows what the season re- quires, and furnishes his contribution to it. The lilies of the field are not more white and graceful than his em- broidered nose ornaments, and with a little eau des cent- milles fleurs, not more fragrant. Dyson knows that pocket-handkerchiefs are necessary, and has " an express from Longchamps " to bring them over. Whether they are picked from ladies' pockets by Dy- son's couriers, who then hurry breathless across the Chan- nel with them, no one need ask. But the gist of Dyson's advertisement, and of all the preceding remarks, is this great truth, which need not be carried out further by any illustrations from geography or natural history, that in the spring-time all nature renews itself. There is not a country newspaper published in England that does not proclaim the same fact. Madame Hoggin informs the no- bility and gentry of Penzance that her new and gigantic stock of Parisian fashions has just arrived from London. Mademoiselle M'Whirter begs to announce to the haul- ton in the environs of John-o'- Groats that she has this in- stant returned from Paris, with her dazzling and beautiful collection of spring fashions. In common with the birds, the trees, the meadows, in common with the Sun, with Dyson, with all nature, in fact, I yielded to the irresistible spring impulse, homo sum, nihil humani a me alienum, &c., I acknowledged the influence of the season, and ordered a new coat, waist- MEN AND COATS. 41 coat and tr in short, a new suit. Now, having worn it for a few days, and studied the effect which it has upon the wearer, I thought that perhaps an essay upon new clothes and their influence might be attended with some profit both to the public and the writer. One thing is certain. A man does not have a new suit of clothes every day; and another general proposition may be advanced, that a man in sporting a coat for the first time is either agreeably affected, or disagreeably affected, or not affected at all, which latter case I don't believe. There is no man, how- ever accustomed to new clothes, but must feel some senti- ment of pride in assuming them, no philosopher, how- ever calm, but must remark the change of raiment. Men consent to wear old clothes forever, nay, feel a pang at parting with them for new ; but the first appearance of a new garment is always attended with exultation. Even the feeling of shyness, which makes a man ashamed of his splendor, is a proof of his high sense of it. "What causes an individual to sneak about in corners and shady places, to avoid going out in new clothes of a Sun- day, lest he be mistaken for a snob ? Sometimes even to go the lengths of ordering his servant to powder his new coat with sand, or to wear it for a couple of days, and re- move the gloss thereof? Are not these manreuvres proofs of the effects of new coats upon mankind in general ? As this notice will occupy at least ten pages (for a rea- son that may be afterwards mentioned), I intend, like the great philosophers who have always sacrificed themselves for the public good, imbibing diseases, poisons, and medi- 42 MEN AND COATS. cines, submitting to operations, inhaling asphysifications, &c., in order that they might note in themselves the par- ticular phenomena of the case, in like manner, I say, I intend to write this essay in five several coats, viz : 1. My old single-breasted black frock-coat, with patches at the elbows, made to go into mourning for William IV. 2. My double-breasted green ditto, made last year but one, and still very good, but rather queer about the lining, and snowy in the seams. 3. My grand black dress-coat, made by Messrs. Spard- ing and Spohrer, of Conduit Street, in 1836. A little scouring and renovating have given it a stylish look even now ; and it was always a splendid cut. 4. My worsted-net-jacket that my uncle Harry gave me on his departure for Italy. This jacket is wadded inside with a wool like that one makes "Welsh wigs of; and though not handsome, amazing comfortable, with pockets all over. 5. MY NEW FROCK-COAT. Now, will the reader be able to perceive any difference in the style of writing of each chapter ? I fancy I see it myself clearly; and am convinced that the new frock- coat chapter will be infinitely more genteel, spruce, and glossy, than the woollen-jacket chapter; which, again, shall be more comfortable than the poor, seedy, patched William-the-Fourth's black-frock chapter. The double- breasted green one will be dashing, manly, free-and-easy ; and, though not fashionable, yet with a well-bred look. The grand black-dress chapter will be solemn and grave, devilish tight about the waist, abounding in bows and shrugs, and small talk ; it will have a great odor of bohea and pound-cake ; perhaps there will be a faint whiff of negus ; and the tails will whisk up in a quadrille at the MEN AND COATS. 43 end, or sink down, mayhap, on a supper-table bench be- fore a quantity of trifles, lobster-salads, and champagnes ; and near a lovely blushing white satin skirt, which is con- tinually crying out, " O you ojous creature ! " or, " O you naughty, satirical man, you ! " " And do you really be- lieve Miss Moffat dyes her hair ? " " And have you read that sweet thing in the Keepsake by Lord Diddle?" " Well, only one leetle, leetle drop, for mamma will scold " ; and "O you horrid Mr. Titmarsh, you have filled my glass, I declare!" Dear white satin skirt, what pretty shoulders and eyes you have ! what a nice white neck, and bluish-mottled, round, innocent arms ! how fresh you are and candid ! and ah, my dear, what a fool you are ! * * * # #= I don't have so many coats now-a-days as in the days of hot youth, when the figure was more elegant, and credit, mayhap, more plenty ; and, perhaps, this accounts for the feeling of unusual exultation that comes over me as I assume this one. Look at the skirts how they are shining in the sun, with a delicate gloss upon them, that evanescent gloss that passes away with the first freshness of the coat, as the bloom does from the peach. A friend meets you, he salutes you cordially, but looks puzzled for a moment at the change in your appearance. " I have it ! " says Jones. " Hobson, my boy, I congrat- ulate you, a new coat, and very neat cut, puce-col- ored frock, brown silk lining, brass buttons, and velvet collar, quite novel, and quiet and genteel at the same time." You say, "Pooh, Jones ! do you think so, though?" and at the same time turn round just to give him a view of the back, in which there is not a single wrinkle. You find suddenly that you must buy a new stock ; that your old Berlin gloves will never do ; and that a pair of three- 44 MEN AND COATS. and-sixpenny kids are absolutely necessary. You find your boots are cruelly thick, and fancy that the attention of the world is accurately divided between the new frock- coat and the patch on your great toe. It is very odd that that patch did not annoy you yesterday in the least de- gree, that you looked with a good-natured grin at the old sausage-fingered Berlin gloves, bulging out at the end and concaved like spoons. But there is a change in the man, without any doubt. Notice Sir M O'D ; those who know that celebrated military man by sight are aware of one peculiarity in his appearance, his hat is never brushed. I met him one day with the beaver brushed quite primly ; and looking hard at the baronet to ascertain the cause of this phenomenon, saw that he had a new coat. Even his great spirit was obliged to yield to the power of the coat, he made a genteel effort, he awoke up from his habitual Diogenic carelessness; and I have no doubt that had Alexander, before he vis- ited the cynic, ordered some one to fling a new robe into his barrel, I have no doubt but that he would have found the fellow prating and boasting with all the airs of a man of fashion, and talking of tilburies, opera girls, and the last ball at Devonshire House, as if the brute had been used for all his life to no other company. Fie upon the swaggering, vulgar bully ! I have always wondered how the Prince of Macedon, a gentleman by birth, with an excellent tutor to educate him, could have been imposed upon by the grovelling, obscene, envious tub-man, and could have uttered the speech we know of. It was a humbug, depend upon it, attributed to his majesty by some maladroit lion-mot maker of the court, and passed subsequently for genuine Alexandrine. It is hardly necessary for the moralist earnestly to MEN AND COATS. 45 point out to persons moving in a modest station of life the necessity of not having coats of too fashionable and rakish a cut. Coats have been, and will be in the course of this disquisition, frequently compared to the flowers of the field : like them they bloom for a season, like them they grow seedy and they fade. Can you afford always to renew your coat when this fatal hour arrives ? Is your coat like the French mon- archy, and does it never die ? Have, then, clothes of the newest fashion, and pass on to the next article in the Magazine, unless, always, you prefer the style of this one. But while a shabby coat, worn in a manly way, is a bearable, nay, sometimes a pleasing object, reminding one of " a good man struggling with the storms of fate," whom Mr. Joseph Addison has represented in his tragedy of Cato, while a man of a certain character may look august and gentlemanlike in a coat of a certain cut, it is quite impossible for a person who sports an ultra-fashion- able costume to wear it with decency beyond a half-year say. My coats always last me two years, and any man who knows me knows how / look ; but I defy Count d'Orsay thus publicly to wear a suit for seven hundred and thirty days consecutively, and look respectable at the end of that time. In like manner, I would defy, without any disrespect, the Marchioness of X , or her Grace the Duchess of Z , to sport a white satin gown con- stantly for six months and look decent. There is propri- ety in dress. Ah, my poor Noll Goldsmith, in your fa- mous plum-colored velvet ! I can see thee strutting down Fleet Street, and stout old Sam rolling behind as Maister Boswell pours some Caledonian jokes into his ear, and grins at the poor vain poet. In what a pretty condition 46 MEN AND COATS. will Goldy's puce-colored velvet be about two months hence, when it is covered with dust and grease, and he comes in his slatternly finery to borrow a guinea of his friend ! A friend of the writer's once made him a present of two very handsome gold pins ; and what did the author of this notice do ? Why, with his usual sagacity, he in- stantly sold the pins for five-and-twenty shillings, the cost of the gold, knowing full well that he could not afford to live up to such fancy articles. If you sport handsome gold pins, you must have everything about you to match. Nor do I in the least agree with my friend Bosk, who has a large amethyst brooch, and fancies that, because he sticks it in his shirt, his atrocious shabby stock and sur- tout may pass muster. No, no ! let us be all peacock, if you please ; but one peacock's feather in your tail is a very absurd ornament, and of course all moderate men will avoid it. I remember, when I travelled with Captain Cook in the South Sea Islands, to have seen Quashama- boo with nothing on him but a remarkably fine cocked- hat, his queen sported a red coat, and one of the prin- cesses went frisking about in a pair of leather-breeches, much to our astonishment. This costume was not much more absurd than poor Goldsmith's, who might be very likely seen drawing forth from the gold-embroidered pocket of his plum-colored velvet, a pat of butter wrapped in a cabbage-leaf, a pair of farthing rushlights, an onion or two, and a bit of bacon. I recollect meeting a great, clever, ruffianly boor of a man, who had made acquaintance with a certain set of very questionable aristocracy, and gave himself the air of a man of fashion. He had a coat made of the very pat- tern of Lord Toggery's, a green frock, a green velvet MEN AND COATS. 47 collar, a green lining : a plate of spring-cabbage is not of a brisker, brighter hue. This man, who had been a shop- keeper's apprentice originally, now declared that every man who was a gentleman wore white kid gloves, and for a certain period sported a fresh pair every day. One hot, clear, sunshiny, July day, walking down the Haymarket at two o'clock, I heard a great yelling and shouting of blackguard boys, and saw that they were hunting some object in their front. The object approached us, it was a green object, a green coat, collar, and lining, and a pair of pseudo- white kid gloves. The gloves were dabbled with mud and blood, the man was bleeding at the nose, and slaver- ing at the mouth, and yelling some unintelligible verses of a song, and swaying to and fro across the sunshiny street, with the blackguard boys in chase. I turned round the corner of Vigo Lane with the ve- locity of a cannon-ball, and sprung panting into a baker's shop. It was Mr. Bludyer, our London Diogenes. Have a care ye gay, dashing Alexanders ! how ye influence such men by too much praise, or debauch them by too much intimacy. How much of that man's extravagance, and absurd aristocratic airs, and subsequent roueries, and cutting of old acquaintance, is to be attributed to his im- itation of Lord Toggery's coat ! Actors of the lower sort affect very much braiding and fur collars to their frock-coats ; and a very curious and instructive sight it is to behold these personages with pale, lean faces, and hats cocked on one side, in a sort of pseudo-military trim. One sees many such sauntering under Drury Lane Colonnade, or about Bow Street, with sickly smiles on their faces. Poor fellows, poor fellows ! how much of their character is embroidered in that seedy 48 MEN AND COATS. braiding of their coats ! Near five o'clock, in the neigh- borhood of Rupert Street and the Haymarket, you may still occasionally see the old, shabby, manly, gentlemanly, half-pay frock : but the braid is now growing scarce in London ; and your military man, with reason perhaps, dresses more like a civilian ; and understanding life bet- ter, and the means of making his half-crown go as far as five shillings in former days, has usually a club to dine at, and leaves Rupert Street eating-houses to persons of a different grade, to some of those dubious dandies whom one sees swaggering in Regent Street in the afternoon, or to those gay, spruce gentlemen whom you encounter in St. Paul's Churchyard at ten minutes after five, on their way westward from the City. Look at the same hour at the Temple, and issuing thence and from Essex Street, you behold many scores of neat barristers, who are walking to the joint and half a pint of Marsala at the Oxford and Cambridge Club. They are generally tall, slim, proper, well-dressed men, but their coats are too prim and professionally cut. Indeed, I have generally re- marked that their clerks, who leave chambers about the same time, have a far more rakish and fashionable air ; and if, my dear madam, you will condescend to take a beefsteak at the Cock, or at some of the houses around Covent Garden, you will at once allow that this statement is perfectly correct. I have always had rather a contempt for a man who, on arriving at home, deliberately takes his best coat from his back and adopts an old and shabby one. It is a mean precaution. Unless very low in the world indeed, one should be above a proceeding so petty. Once I knew a French lady very smartly dressed in a black velvet pelisse, a person whom I admired very much, and in- MEN AND COATS. 49 deed for the matter of that she was very fond of me, but that is neither here nor there, I say I knew a French lady of some repute who used to wear a velvet pelisse, and how do you think the back of it was arranged ? Why, pelisses are worn, as you know, very full be- hind ; and Madame de Tournuronval had actually a strip of black satin let into the hinder part of her dress, over which the velvet used to close with a spring when she walked or stood, so that the satin was invisible. But when she sat on a chair, especially one of the cane-bot- tomed species, Euphemia gave a loose to her spring, the velvet divided on each side, and she sat down on the satin. Was it an authorized stratagem of millinery ? Is a wo- man under any circumstances permitted to indulge in such a manceuvre ? I say, No. A woman with such a gown is of a mean, deceitful character. Of a woman who has a black satin patch behind her velvet gown, it is right that one should speak ill behind the back ; and when I saw Euphemia Tournuronval spread out her wings (non usitatce penntz, but what else to call them ?) spread out her skirts and insure them from injury by means of this dastardly ruse, I quitted the room in disgust, and never was intimate with her as before. A widow I know she was ; I am certain she looked sweet upon me ; and she said she had a fortune, but I don't believe it. Away with parsimonious ostentation ! That woman, had I married her, would either have turned out a swindler, or we should have had bouitti five times a week for dinner, bouilli off silver, and hungry lackeys in lace looking on at the windy meal ! The old coat plan is not so base as the above female arrangement ; but say what you will, it is not high-minded and honorable to go out in a good coat, to flaunt the 3 D 50 MEN AND COATS. streets in it with an easy, degage air, as if you always wore such, and returning home assume another under pre- text of dressing for dinner. There is no harm in putting on your old coat of a morning, or in wearing one always. Common reason points out the former precaution, which is at once modest and manly. If your coat pinches you, there is no harm in changing it ; if you are going out to dinner, there is no harm in changing it for a better. But I say the plan of habitual changing is a base one, and only fit for a man at last extremities ; or for a clerk in the city, who hangs up his best garment on a peg, both at the office and at home ; or for a man who smokes, and has to keep his coat for tea-parties, a paltry precaution, however, this. If you like smoking, why should n't you ? If you do smell a little of tobacco, where 's the harm ? The smell is not pleasant, but it does not kill anybody. If the lady of the house do not like it, she is quite at liberty not to invite you again. Et puis ? Bah ! Of what age are you and I ? Have we lived ? Have we seen men and cities ? Have we their manners noted, and understood their idiosyncrasy ? Without a doubt ! And what is the truth at which we have arrived ? This, that a pipe of tobacco is many an hour in the day, and many a week in the month, a thousand times better and more agreeable society than the best Miss, the loveliest Mrs., the most beautiful Baroness, Countess, or what not. Go to tea- parties, those who will ; talk fiddle-faddle, such as like ; many men there are who do so, and are a little par- tial to music, and know how to twist the leaf of the song that Miss Jemima is singing exactly at the right moment. Very good. These are the enjoyments of dress-coats ; but men, are they to be put off with such fare forever ? No ! One goes out to dinner, because one likes eating MEN AND COATS. 51 and drinking ; because the very act of eating and drink- ing opens the heart, and causes the tongue to wag. But evenipg parties ! O, milk and water, bread and butter ! No, no, the age is wiser ! The manly youth frequents his club for common society, has a small circle of amiable ladies for friendly intercourse, his book and his pipe always. Do not be angry, ladies, that one of your most ardent and sincere admirers should seem to speak disparagingly of your merits, or recommend his fellows to shun the so- ciety in which you ordinarily assemble. No, Miss, I am the man who respect you truly, the man who respect and love you when you are most lovely and respectable, in your families, my dears. A wife, a mother, a daughter, has God made anything more beautiful ? A friend, can one find a truer, kinder, a more generous and enthusiastic one, than a woman often will be ? All that has to do with your hearts is beautiful, and in every- thing with which they meddle, a man must be a brute not to love and honor you. But Miss Rudge in blue crape, squeaking romances at a harp, or Miss Tobin dancing in a quadrille, or Miss Blogg twisting round the room in the arms of a lumber- ing Lifeguardsman ; what are these ? so many vani- ties. With the operations here described the heart has nothing to do. Has the intellect ? O, ye gods ! think of Miss Rudge's intellect while singing, " Away, away to the mountain's brow, Where the trees are gently waving ; Away, away to the fountain's flow, Where the streams are softly la-a-ving! " These are the words of a real song that I have heard many times, and rapturously applauded too. Such a song, such a poem, such a songster ! 52 MEN AND COATS. No, madam, if I want to hear a song sung I will pay eight and sixpence and listen to Tamburini and Persian!. I will not pay, gloves, three-and-six ; cab, there and back, four shillings ; silk stockings every now and then, say a shilling a time ; I will not pay to hear Miss Rudge screech such disgusting twaddle as the above. If I want to see dancing, there is Taglioni for my money ; or across the wafer, Mrs. Serle and her forty pupils ; or at Cov- ent Garden, Madame Vedy, beautiful as a houri, dark- eyed and agile as a gazelle. I can see all these in com- fort, and they dance a great deal better than Miss Blogg and Captain Haggerty, the great red-whiskered monster, who always wears nankeens because he thinks his legs are fine. If I want conversation, what has Miss Flock to say to me, forsooth, between the figures of a cursed quadrille that we are all gravely dancing ? By heavens, what an agony it is ! Look at the he-dancers, they seem oppressed with dreadful care. Look at the cavalier seul ! if the operation lasted long the man's hair would turn white, he would go mad ! And is it for this that men and women assemble in multitudes, for this sorry pas- time ? No ! dance as you will, Miss Smith, and swim through the quadrille like a swan, or flutter through the gallop like a sylphide, and have the most elegant fresh toilettes, the most brilliantly polished white shoulders, the blandest eyes, the reddest, simperingest mouth, the whitest neck, the in fact, I say, be as charming as you will, that is not the place to which, if you are worth anything, you are most charming. You are beautiful ; you are very much decolletee ; your eyes are always glancing down at a pretty pearl necklace, round a pearly neck, or on a fresh, fragrant bouquet, stuck fiddlestick ! What is it that MEN AND COATS. 53 the men admire in you ? the animal, Miss, the white, plump, external Smith, which men with their eye-glasses, standing at various parts of the room, are scanning pertly and curiously, and of which they are speaking brutally. A pretty admiration, truly ! But is it possible that these men can admire anything else in you who have so much that is really admirable ? Cracknell, in the course of the waltz, has just time to pant into your ear, " Were you at Ascot Races ? " Kidwinter, who dances two sets of quad- rilles with you, whispers to you, " Do you pwefer thtwaw- bewy ithe aw wathbewy ithe ? " and asks the name of " that gweat enawmuth fat woman in wed thatin and bird of pawadithe ? " to which you reply, " Law, sir, it 's mam- ma ! " The rest of the evening passes away in conversa- tion similarly edifying. What can any of the men admire in you, you little silly creature, but the animal ? There is your mother, now, in red and a bird of paradise, as Kidwinter says. She has a large fan, which she flaps to and fro across a broad chest ; and has one eye directed to her Amelia, dancing with Kidwinter before mentioned ; another watching Jane, who is dancing vis-a>-vis with Major Cutts ; and a third complacently cast upon Ed- ward, who is figuring with Miss Binx in tire other quad- rille. How the dear fellow has grown, to be sure ; and how like his papa at his age heigho ! There is mam- ma, the best woman breathing ; but fat, and even enor- mous, as has been said of her. Does anybody gaze on her ? And yet she was once as slim and as fair as you, O simple Amelia ! Does anybody care for her ? Yes, one. Your father cares for her ; SMITH cares for her ; and in his eyes she is still the finest woman of the room ; and he remembers when he danced down seven-and-forty couples of a coun- 54 MEN AND COATS. .try-dance with her, two years before you were born or thought of. But it was all chance that Miss Hopkins turned out to be the excellent creature she was. Smith did not know any more than that she was gay, plump, good-looking, and had five thousand pounds. Hit or miss, he took her, and has had assuredly no cause to complain ; but she might have been a Borgia or Joan of Naples, and have had the same smiling looks and red cheeks, and five thousand pounds, which won his heart in the year 1814. The system of evening parties, then, is a false and ab- surd one. Ladies may frequent them professionally with an eye to a husband, but a man is an ass who takes a wife out of such assemblies, having no other means of judging of the object of his choice. You are not the same person in your white crape and satin slip as you are in your morning dress. A man is not the same in his tight coat and feverish glazed pumps, and stiff white waistcoat, as he is in his green double-breasted frock, his old black ditto, or his woollen jacket. And a man is doubly an ass who is in the habit of frequenting evening parties, unless he is forced thither in search of a lady to whom he is attached, or unless he is compelled to go by his wife. A man who loves dancing may be set down to be an ass ; and the fashion is greatly going out with the increasing good sense of the age. Do not say that he who lives at home, or frequents clubs in lieu of balls, is a brute, and has not a proper respect for the female sex ; on the con- trary, he may respect it most sincerely. He feels that a woman appears to most advantage, not among those whom she cannot care about, but among those whom she loves. He thinks her beautiful when she is at home making tea for her old father. He believes her to be charming when she MEN AND COATS. 55 is singing a simple song at her piano, but not when she is screeching at an evening party. He thinks by far the most valuable part of her is her heart ; and a kind, sim- ple heart, my dear, shines in conversation better than the best of wit. He admires her best in her intercourse with her family and her friends, and detests the miserable, twaddling slipslop that he is obliged to hear from and utter to her in the course of a ball ; and avoids and de- spises such meetings. He keeps his evening coat, then, for dinners. And if this friendly address to all the mothers who read this miscellany may somewhat be acted upon by them ; if heads of families, instead of spending hundreds upon chalking floors, and Gunter, and cold suppers, and Weip- pert's band, will determine upon giving a series of plain, neat, nice dinners, of not too many courses, but well cooked, of not too many wines, but good of their sort, and according to the giver's degree, they will see that the young men will come to them fast enough ; that they will marry their daughters quite as fast, without injuring their health, and that they will make a saving at the year's end. I say that young men, young women, and heads of families, should bless me for pointing out this obvious plan to them, so natural, so hearty, so hospitable, so different to the present artificial mode. A grand ball in a palace is splendid, generous, and noble, a sort of procession in which people may figure properly. A family dance is a pretty and pleasant amuse- ment ; and (especially after dinner) it does the philoso- pher's heart good to look upon merry young people who know each other, and are happy, natural, and familiar. But a Baker Street hop is a base invention, and as such let it be denounced and avoided. 56 MEN AND COATS. A dressing-gown has great merits, certainly, but it is dangerous. A man who wears it of mornings generally takes the liberty of going without a neckcloth, or of not shaving, and is no better than a driveller. Sometimes, to be sure, it is necessary, in self-defence, not to shave, as a precaution against yourself that is to say; and I know no better means of ensuring a man's remaining at home than neglecting the use of the lather and razor for a week, and encouraging a crop of bristles. When I wrote my tragedy, I shaved off for the last two acts my left eyebrow, and never stirred out of doors until it had grown to be a great deal thicker than its right-hand neighbor. But this was an extreme precaution, and un- less a man has very strong reasons indeed for stopping at home, and a very violent propensity to gadding, his best plan is to shave every morning neatly, to put on his regular coat, and go regularly to work, and to avoid a dressing-gown as the father of all evil. Painters are the only persons who can decently appear in dressing-gowns ; but these are none of your easy morning-gowns; they are commonly of splendid stuff, and put on by the artist in order to render himself remarkable and splendid in the eyes of his sitter. Your loose-wadded German schlaf- rock, imported of late years into our country, is the lazi- est, filthiest invention ; and I always augur as ill of a man whom I see appearing at breakfast in one, as of a woman who comes down stairs in curl-papers. By the way, in the third act of Macbeth, Mr. Macready makes his appearance in the court-yard of Glamis Castle in an affair of brocade that has always struck me as ab- surd and un-Macbethlike. Mac in a dressing-gown (I mean 'Beth, not 'Ready), Mac in list slippers, Mac in a cotton nightcap, with a tassel bobbing up and down, MEN AND COATS. 57 I say the thought is unworthy, and am sure the worthy thane would have come out, if suddenly called from bed, by any circumstance, however painful, in a good stout jacket. It is a more manly, simple, and majestic wear than the lazy dressing-gown ; it more becomes a man of Macbeth's mountainous habits ; it leaves his legs quite free, to run whithersoever he pleases, whether to the stables, to look at the animals, to the farm, to see the pig that has been slaughtered that morning, to the gar- den, to examine whether that scoundrel of a John Hos- kins has dug up the potato-bed, to the nursery, to have a romp with the little Macbeths that are spluttering and quarrelling over their porridge, or whither you will. A man in a jacket is fit company for anybody ; there is no shame about it as about being seen in a changed coat ; it is simple, steady, and straightforward. It is, as I have stated, all over pockets, which contain everything you want ; in one, your buttons, hammer, small nails, thread, twine, and cloth-strips for the trees on the south wall ; in another, your dog-whip and whistle, your knife, cigai*- case, gingerbread for the children, paper of Epsom salts for John Hoskins's mother, who is mortal bad, and so on : there is no end to the pockets, and to the things you put in them. Walk about in your jacket, and meet what person you will, you assume at once an independent air ; and, thrusting your hands into the receptacle that flaps over each hip, look the visitor in the face, and talk to the ladies on a footing of perfect equality. Whereas, look at the sneaking way in which a man caught in a dressing- gown, in loose bagging trousers most likely (for the man who has a dressing-gown, has, two to one, no braces), and in shuffling slippers, see how he whisks his dressing- gown over his legs, and looks ashamed and uneasy. His 3* 58 MEN AND COATS. lanky hair hangs over his blowsy, fat, shining, unhealthy face ; his bristly, dumpling-shaped double chin peers over a flaccid shirt collar ; the sleeves of his gown are in rags, and you see underneath a pair of black wristbands, and the rim of a dingy flannel waistcoat. A man who is not strictly neat in his person is not an honest man. I shall not enter into this very ticklish sub- ject of personal purification and neatness, because this es- say will be read by hundreds of thousands of ladies as well as men ; and for the former I would wish to provide nothing but pleasure. Men may listen to stern truths ; but for ladies one should only speak verities that are sparkling, rosy, brisk, and agreeable. A man who wears a dressing-gown is not neat in his person ; his moral char- acter takes invariably some of the slatternliness and loose- ness of his costume ; he becomes enervated, lazy, incapa- ble of great actions ; A man IN A JACKET is a man. All great men wore jackets. Walter Scott wore a jacket, as everybody knows ; Byron wore a jacket (not that I count a man who turns down his collars for much) ; I have a picture of Napoleon in a jacket, at St. Helena ; Thomas Carlyle wears a jacket ; Lord John Russell always mounts a jacket on arriving at the Colonial Office ; and if I have a single fault to find with that popular writer, the author of never mind what, you know his name as well as I, it is that he is in the habit of composing his works in a large, flowered damask dressing-gown, and morocco slippers ; whereas, in a jacket he would write you off something, not so flowery, if you please, but of honest texture, something, not so long, but terse, modest, and comfortable, no great, long, strealing tails of periods, no staring peonies and hollyhocks of illustrations, no flaring cords and tassels of episodes, no great, dirty, MEN AND COATS. 59 wadded sleeves of sentiment, ragged at the elbows and cuffs, and mopping up everything that comes in their way, cigar-ashes, ink, candle-wax, cold brandy-and- water, coffee, or whatever aids to the brain he may em- ploy as a literary man ; not to mention the quantity of tooth-powder, whisker-dye, soapsuds, and pomatum, that the same garment receives in the course of the toilets at which it assists. Let all literary men, then, get jackets. I prefer them without tails ; but do not let this interfere with another man's pleasure : he may have tails if he likes, and I for one will never say him nay. Like all things, however, jackets are subject to abuse ; and the pertness and conceit of those jackets cannot be sufficiently reprehended which one sees on the backs of men at watering-places, with a telescope poking out of one pocket, and a yellow bandana flaunting from the other. Nothing is more contemptible than Tims in a jacket, with a blue bird's-eye neck-handkerchief tied sailor-fashion, puffing smoke like a steamer, with his great broad orbicular stern shining in the sun. I al- ways long to give the wretch a smart smack upon that part where his coat-tails ought to be, and advise him to get into a more decent costume. There is an age and a figure for jackets ; those who are of a certain build should not wear them in public. "Witness fat officers of the dragoon-guards that one has seen bumping up and down the Steyne, at Brighton, on their great chargers, with a laced and embroidered coat, a cartridge-box, or whatever you call it, of the size of a twopenny loaf, placed on the small of their backs, if their backs may be said to have a small, and two little twinkling abortions of tails pointing downwards to the enormity jolting in the saddle. Officers should be occasionally measured, and after pass- 60 MEN AND COATS. ing a certain width, should be drafted into other regi- ments, or allowed, nay ordered to wear frock-coats. The French tailors make frock-coats very well, but the people who wear them have the disgusting habit of wear- ing stays, than which nothing can be more unbecoming the dignity of man. Look what a waist the Apollo has, not above four inches less in the girth than the chest is. Look, ladies, at the waist of the Venus, and pray, pray do not pinch in your dear little ribs in that odious and unseemly way. In a young man a slim waist is very well ; and if he looks like the Eddystone lighthouse, it is as nature intended him to look. A man of certain age may be built like a tower, stalwart and straight. Then a man's middle may expand from the pure cylindrical to the barrel shape ; well, let him be content. Nothing is so horrid as a fat man with a band ; an hour-glass is a most mean and ungracious figure. Daniel Lambert is ungracious, but not mean. One meets with some men who look in their frock-coats perfectly sordid, sneaking, and ungentlemanlike, who if you see them dressed for an evening have a slim, easy, almost fashionable, appearance. Set these persons down as fellows of poor spirit and milk- sops. Stiff white ties and waistcoats, prim straight tails, and a gold chain, will give any man of moderate lankiness an air of factitious gentility ; but if you want to understand the individual, look at him in the daytime ; see him walk- ing with his hat on. There is a great deal in the build and wearing of hats, a great deal more than at first meets the eye. I know a man who in a particular hat looked so extraordinarily like a man of property, that no trades- man on earth could refuse to give him credit. It was one of Andre's, and cost a guinea and a half ready money; but the person in question was frightened at the enormous MEN AND COATS. 61 charge, and afterwards purchased beavers in the city at the cost of seventeen-and-sixpence. Arid what was the consequence ? He fell off in public estimation, and very soon after he came out in his city hat it began to be whis- pered abroad that he was a ruined man. A blue coat is, after all, the best ; but a gentleman of my acquaintance has made his fortune by an Oxford mix- ture, of all colors in the world, with a pair of white buck- skin gloves. He looks as if he had just got off his horse, and as if he had three thousand a-year in the country. There is a kind of proud humility in an Oxford mixture. Velvet collars, and all such gimcracks, had best be avoid- ed by sober people. This paper is not written for drivel- ling dandies, but for honest men. There is a great deal of philosophy and forethought in Sir Robert Peel's dress ; he does not wear those white waistcoats for nothing. I say that O' Council's costume is likewise that of a profound rhetorician, slouching and careless as it seems. Lord Melbourne's air of reckless, good-humored, don't-care-a- damn-ativeness is not obtained without an effort. Look at the Duke as he passes along in that stern little straight frock and plaid breeches ; look at him, and off with your hat ! How much is there in that little gray coat of Na- poleon's ! A spice of clap-trap and dandyism, no doubt ; but we must remember the country which he had to gov- ern. I never see a picture of George III. in his old stout Windsor uniform without feeling a respect ; or of George IV., breeches and silk stockings, a wig, a sham smile, a frogged frock-coat and a fur collar, without that proper degree of reverence which such a costume should inspire. The coat is the expression of the man, ol^ep