1 ' !f;:-- •^ ■^. K;. ■^ V THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES •/^» A TOUR SOUTH AFRICA, WITH NOTICES OF VATAL, MAUETTIUS, MADAGASCAE, CEYLON, EGYPT, AND PALESTINE. By J: J. FKEEMAN, / 7 7- ''»-^ HOME SECRETARY OF THE LONDON MISSIONARY SOCIETY. LONDON : JOHN SNOW, 35, PATERNOSTER ROW. 1851. LUNDON : nr.V.X) AND PARDON, PRINTERS, PATERNOSTER ROW. P E E P A C E. In the Autumn of 1848, I was requested by the Directors of the London Missionary Society to proceed to the Cape of Good Hope, with the view of visiting their numerous Missions in South Africa ; and from thence to proceed to the Island of Mauritius, to visit the Missions there ; and particularly to institute in- quiries respecting the Native Christians in Madagascar, and the prospects of that still afflicted country. Having accomplished these objects, I preferred to take the Overland Eoute on my way home, instead of returnmg by the Cape ; and I accordingly proceeded from Port Louis to Ceylon, where I embarked for Suez. Having passed some little time in Egypt, I visited Palestine, and returned from Beyrut to England, by way of Alexandria and Malta. My Official Report, on the various points of business with which I had been intrusted, as the Society's Deputation, I have presented to the Board of Directors, by whom it is made the basis of conference in appro- priate committees. But numerous friends, beyond those of my own private circle, have kindly expressed the wish that I would publish some account of my tour, together with a distinct notice of sundry collateral matters that have fallen under my observation. I have, therefore, prepared the following pages for the press. In doing so, my principal object has been to assist in deepening and extending that interest in Protestant IV PKEFACE. Missions, and the welfare of the ahoriginal races, wliieh is ah-ead}' so earnestly cherished by the Christian and intelligent public. In the prosecution of this aim, I have wished to present as large an amount of informa- tion as I could, regarding the actual state and progress of Missions in South Africa, and more especially of those connected with the London Missionary Society. The Tom* itself could not be accomplished without its fatigue and some inconveniences. But the gi'atifi- cations attending it have far outweighed these ; — the gi-atification of witnessmg many scenes of permanent moral interest, and of mingling with men of gi-eat Christian enterprise and benevolence ; — the gratification of trying, at least, to promote the prosperitj^ and hap- piness of others ; — the gratification of marking the progi'ess of Christian IVIissions, and their influence in elevating the Native Tribes of Africa. In addition to all this, were the frequent charms of scenery and climate, of novelty and variety ; the new aspects under wliich to view men and customs, laws and institutions, with innumerable facts relative to Colonies and Colo- nization, and the condition of the Native Tribes, both in theii' Aboriginal and Transition state. I kept as ample a journal during my torn* as I could; yet I confess, I sometimes found myself too much occupied through the day, and too wearied at its close, to fill the pages as I desired. I have, however, made ample use of it in preparing these pages, and I have thus tried to make my readers feel as though they had been my companions, to go over the gi^ound and witness the scenes I did, to share largely in my pleasures, and to be spared all my inconveniences. This remark will explain the method which I have pursued in the fol- lowing pages. PREFACE. V I have not given, first, chapters embracing an out- line of the route, then some chapters on the state of Missions, and the special objects of my visit, and then finally some notices of incidental matter; but I have endeavoured to blend these together. I go over the route, and endeavour to describe what I found in- structive and interesting in it ; I pause from time to time at the Mission Stations, and describe them, and then introduce, wherever it seemed appropriate, notices of whatever I regarded as useful, although incidental and subordinate. Having given an ample " Table of Contents," I have not deemed it necessary to provide an " Index." But it may facilitate a reference to any particular sub- ject, if I indicate here the principal matters to which the Chapters are respectively devoted : — The 1st, 2nd, and 3rd Chapters are occupied with notices of the Colony, and various Mission Stations and Institutions. 4th and 5th Chapters, British KafFraria and Madoor's Country. 6th Chapter, History of the Hottentots. 7th , Kat River Settlement. 8th , Hottentot Grievances. 9th , Kaffir History. 10th , Various Towns up to the Orange River. 11th , Griquas, and Missions among them. 12th , Bechuanas, and Missions among them. 13th , British Sovereignty between the Vaal and Orange Rivers. 14th , Basuto Country and French Missions. 15th , Natal. 16th , Mauritius and Madagascar. 17th , Ceylon, Aden, and Suez. 18th , Egypt. 19th , Palestine. I have much pleasure in acknowledging the kind response of many friends to my Circular ; but in sub- TREFACE. scribing to the volume, the wish has been repeatedly intimated that the names should not be published. The pages which the list of names would have occupied, I have filled with details of the " Tour." J. J. F. 4, Douglas Road, Kingsland, lith July, 1851. It may be simply due to the Society and myself to say, that the ■whole of the expenses comiected ■with the indirect portion of my retiurn home through Egypt and Syria, I have met from my private resources. ILLUSTRATIONS. Frontispiece, PhUipton, to face Title-page. Map of the " British Sovereignty," ■with small ^lap of South Africa to face page 1 49 xianiiey j-usuiuiiuii Hankey Inxmdation 55 A Kaffir and his Wife . 197 Ne^wly- discovered Lake „ 287 Mountains in South Africa . 344 Cascade in Natal .... 348 Tamatave, Madagascar 383 Travelling in Egypt . 431 CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Arrival at the Cape— Table Bay — Sentiment during my Visit — Political Creed — Illustrations — Convict Question — Moral Feeling of the Colony — General objects of my Mission — Dr. Philip — Union Chapel — Notice of the Colony — Extent, Landed Property — -Exports^Cape Town — Seat of Govern- ment — Population — Christian Ministry — Press — Prepara- tion for Travelling — Startmcr for the Interior CHAPTER II. Svrellendam, Dr. Robertson — Dutch Emigrant Boers — Zuurbrak, Vagrancy Law— Magistrate's Report — Missionary Remarks on said Report — Industry of the People — Debts — D. Moodie, Esq. — Continuance or Abandonment of Missionary Institu- tions ? — Opinion of Dr. Philip — Roiite to Pacaltsdorp — In- stitution there — Public Meeting — George — Cradock Pass — Gate Kamphoor — Horse Car and Native Driving — Dyssels- dorp — Public Meeting — Oudshorn — Mineral Sprmgs — La- bour Question — Cango Caverns — Avontuvu", Mr. Hood — Anecdote of a Kaffir . . . . . . . .10 CHAPTER III. A Native Ministry — Eixropcan aid requisite — Hankey Institution, Inundation — Machpclah — Affecting Anecdote — Tunnel Chart— Fertility, a Tliousundfbld — Native Capacities — Edu- cation — ^laps wanted — Public Meeting — New Chapel, Church-members and Rules of Church-fellowship — Port Elizabeth — Fingoes — Bethclsdorp — Salt I'an — Thomas Pringle — Native Races — Fears and Hopes — Contributions — Uitenhage — Tea Party — Thcopolis — Sufferings from War, 1847 — Graham's Town, Chapels — Hottentot Corps of Cape Mounted Rifles — Canteens ....... 49 via CONTENTS. PAGE CHAPTER IV. Notices of the Country — District of Victoria — Xeutral Territory — Makomo — British Katfraria — Fort Beaufort — Umxelo — Fingocs — Attack on Fort Beaufort, Death of Ilcrmanus^ Diflicultics of Missionaries — Messrs. Head — Birklands— Amatola Mountains — Mr. Caldcrwood — "Alice" — "Love- dale" — Missions in Kaffirland to be prosecuted — Chumie Mountains — Burn's Hill — Loss of Commissariat — Hottentot Coiirage — Kaffir Character — "Knapp's Hope" — Irrigation — Agriculture superseding "War — Limited Locations — War breaks out — King "William's Town — Companions — Mr. Brownlee's Losses, no Compensation — Congregation, Desire of Improvement — Colonel Mackimion — Mount Coke — State of Kafhrland — Hopes — Suspicions — Jan Tzatzoe — -Mr. Ross, Pcrie — Mr. BLrt's Station — Young Men's Class — Agricul- tural Eflforts — Class of Native "Women — Help from England 83 CHAPTER V. German Mission Station, Bethel — Madoor's Station, Freemanton — Remedy against Avarice — Treatment of Madoor — Tam- bookies — Kaffir Argument, Quit-rent — Letters from Madoor — Shiloh, Moravian Station — Self-supporting — Land Culti- vated — Attacked in 1847, Major Hogg — Our Allies — Pro- ceed towards the Kat River — Messrs. Read — Letters — Snow Storm — Cold — Night's Accommodation — Roads Difficult — Splendid View — War — Arrival at Philipton — Mrs. Read . 110 CHAPTER VI. Rise and Spread of Chi-istianity and Civilization among the Hot- tentots — The Moravian Mission of 1737 — Appeals of Travel- lers on Behalf of the Hottentots — Their Military Em-olment — Missionary Institutions after 179o — Commissions of In- quiry — Circmt Courts — Absence of Law — Compulsory Ser- vice — Personal Violence — British Settlers in Albany, 1820 — Commission of Inquu-y, 1822 — The oOth Ordinance, or Magna Charta of the Hottentots, 1828 — Kat River Settle- ment, 1829 — Parliamentary Committee, 1835-7 — Conduct of the Hottentots in the Kaffir- Wars, 1835-46 — Their subse- quent Treatment, and present Condition . . . .131 CHAPTER VII. Kat River Settlement — Its Origin — Parties Emigratuig thither — Enthusiasm — Freedom — Testimonies — Out-stations — Re- ligious Institutions — Church Government — Schools — Press — Visit to Locations — Scenery — Foliage — Tints — Industrj' of Natives — Native Hospitality — Geology — Man in Lion's CONTENTS. IX Page INIoiith — Substitute for Bells — Kat River no Failure — Treat- ment — Exaniination of Schools — Printing — Letter to Depu- tation — Diagrams — Things that are wanting — Scotch Mission — Landscape — Children — Ordination at Tidmanton — Testi- monial of Elders and Deacons — Native Improvement — Letter from Van Rooyen ..,,.... 146 CHAPTER VIII. Strike, but hear — Memorial to Sir H. Smith — Hottentots at Bux- ton — Letter from Colonial Secretary — Letter as to Buxton Hottentots — Expulsion of the People — Expulsion of Gona Hottentots — Police Report of Expulsions — ^The Governor's Commendation — Letter from Mr. C. Bro-milee — Letter fr-om the GoA'ernor — Letter from Botha to the Governor — Suffer- ings of the Gona Hottentots — Botha's Letter of Expostula- tion — Summary of the Case — Cattle Impounded — Irritation of the People — "We are tired of Irritations" — Excitement at Kat River — Excessive Exactions — Causes of Irritation — People's Appeal for Investigation — Letter from the Govern- ment — Kat River Hottentots ...... 167 CHAPTER IX. THE KAFFIR HISTORY. The Kaffir Race — The New Policy introduced by Earl Grey respecting British Intercourse with the Kaffir Race — The Amakosse, or Kaffirs adjacent to the Cape Colony — Thefr Wars viiih the Cape Colony — The Kaffir Chief Macomo's Daughter — Influence of British Policy in Kaffirland upon the Interior of South Africa. ...... 197 CHAPTER X. Journey to Cradock— Kaga Mountains— Sir Andiies Stocken- strom — Lord Glenelg's System — History of the Colony — True Policy of Great Britam — Cradock Native Congi-egation — Somerset — Dutch Reformed Church — Milk River — Graaff Rcinct — Value of Farms — Rev. Mr. Muii-ay — Journey to Colesberg — Dr. Vanderkemp — An Unexpected Vis-a-vis — Kopjes — Colesberg Town — Congregations — Intemperance — Sagacity of a Dog — -Orange River FeiTy-Boat Roi)e broken — Comfortable Prospect — Amiable Wife — Crossing the Stream— Eight-horse Vehicle — Pliilippolis— Mr. Wright . 214 CHAPTER XL Pliilippolis — Property of the Griquas — Attendance on Sunday- Schools — Education — Public Meeting — Antelopes — Griev- ances — Ramah — Backhouse — ^lessrs. Oswell and Murray — Corarmas — Leading out the Vaal — Lands to be Irrigated — \ CONTENTS. PACK Surveyor's Report — Crossing the River — Griqua Town — Waterboer — Schools — Bechuana Women — Geology — Artifi- cial Irrigation — Difficulties — Discouragements — Encom-age- ments — Uneasiness as to Lands — Treaties— Alienable and Inalienable Territory — Letter to Earl Grey — Sir Harry Smith to Earl Grey — Remarks on the Letter to Earl Grey — Leav- ing Griqua To^^^l ........ 228 CHAPTER XII. BECHUANA COUNTRY AND BECHUANA MISSIONS. Daniel's Kuil — Kuruman Fountain — Rev. R. Moffat — Village — Mission Premises — Gardens — Chapel — Murders — Children stolen — Dangers to the Aborigines — Printing Estabhshment — Hamhana — Mission Committee — Translations — Native Teachers — Lay Help — Route to Kolobeng— Motito — Migra- tory Habits — Sitlagole — Superstition — Dress — Desert Country — Matebe — Congregation — Matzilikatze — South African Wars — "\^'llolesale Murder — Mabotsa — The Chief Moselele — Khoodoo — Serpent Worship — Enormous Boa- Constrictor — Kolobeng — Sechele 258 CHAPTER XIII. THE OEAXGE RIVER SOVEREIGNTY. Explanation of the Name— Extent — Historj- of its Acquisition — Pri^y Council Report — Colonies, How acquii-ed? — Con- quest, Cession, Occupancy — Attorney- General's Opinion — Opinion reconsidered — Variety of Opinions — Final AiTange- ment — Power of Legal Fictions — Dancing a Polka — Trans- formations — Aiuiexation — Coloui-ed Races — Bloem Fontein — Murder by some Bushmen — Commando — Murderers arrested — Capitally punished — Elopement — Punished with Death— Lynch Law — Execution of Two Men by Court- Martial— thaba L'nchu—:Moroko—Platberg— Noble Kloof —Rev. Mr. Giddy— Thaba Bossio 295 CHAPTER XIV. THE BASUTO COUNTRY, AND TRENCH MISSIONS. Earlv Residence of Moshesh— His Early Struggles— Thaba Bos- sio— Polvgamy — Character of Moshesh — Humanity of his Tribe — Waterboer — Moshesh's Estimate of Waterboer — Comprehensive Views of Moshesh — His Complaints— Treaties made with him — Governor :Maitland — Fidelity of Moshesh — Conduct of Government— Moshesh asks Redress— Forced to sign away his Territory— Visit to Moshesh — Conversation with ^Moshesh — Intelligence of the People— Difficulties of the Missionary— Appeal of Moshesh to Her Majesty— Letter from Moshesh— Letter to Lord John Russell— Sir H. Smith's CONTENTS. XI PAGE Denial — Extent of Territory Lost — Morija — Feelings of the People — Printing-press — Conversion of Libey — Companions separate — Death of Miss Christie— RobertMoffat—Mokuat- ling — Attack of Corannas — Mission Station — Cannibal Caves — Caruiibals •\vatchmg then- Prey — Extirpation of that Horrid Custom — Visit to Bethxilia — Carmel — Taking Lions by the Tail — Lion shot and Kid saved — Beersheba — INIr. Rolland — Absence of Children — Cannibalism .... 309 CHAPTER XV. NATAL. Journey to Umpakani, Imparani — SikonyeUa — Liebenberg's Vlei — Eland's River — Harrismith — Brick-maker — Lion Skin — Room for Farmers — Horse-sickness — Diihcult Ground — Magnificent View — Appearance of the Country — Zoolu Kaffirs — Cascade — Pieter Maiiritzbiu-g^ — Native Popidation — Farms — Emigrants — Indaleni — Mr. Alison — Civilization — Uysdooni — Dr. Adams — Character of the Coimtry — D'Urban— Port Natal— The Bar and Bluff— Mr. Holden— Panda — Native Foreigners — American Missions — New Ger- many — Cotton — Sugar — Leave Natal for Cape Town . . 340 CHAPTER XVI. MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. Return to Cape To-wn — Interview with the Governor — Go- vernor's Defence — Inquiry demanded — Murder — Educa- tion — Arrival in Maui-itius — David Ratsarahomba — Chapel in Port Louis — Services — Former Slaves and Indian Coolies — Madagascar — Moka, Mission Station — Malagasy — David Johns Andrianado — Nouvelle Decouverte — Paoly — Plam WUhelras — New Chapel — Extinct Volcano — Madagascar — Letter from the Queen — Trade -with Madagascar — Origin of Recent Dispute with Madagascar — A Humiliating Exhibi- tion — Native Cruelty — Ships to Madagascar — Dr. Taval — Loss to British Government — Roman Catholics in Mauri- tius — Church of England — Other Denominations — Influenza 3GG CHAPTER XVII. CEYLON ADEN SUEZ. Leave Mauritius — GaUe in Ceylon — Native Canoes — Route to Colombo — Colombo — Bazaar — Betel Nut — Produce — Pearls — Treasm-es of the Deep — Scenery — Wesleyans in Ceylon — Baptist Mission — Dr. M'Vicars — Wolfendal — Missionary Meeting — Cotton — Lord Torrington — Prison — Sir Anthony Oliphant — "Haddington" — Voyage to Aden — Aden — Vol- canic Appearances of Aden — Population — SumaUs . . -VJl fONTENTS. CHAPTER XVIII. EGYPT. Arabian Gulf — Passage of the Israelites — Sinai — The Steamer — Suez — Fimeral at Suez — Vans for the Desert — Crossing the Desert — Reaching Cairo — Emotions on reacliing Cairo — Hotel d'Orieut — Rev. Mr. Liecler — Ophthalmia — Tiukish Baths — Visit to the P\Tamids — Cheops — Second Pyramid — A Night in a Tomb — Sakhara— Memphis — Torah — Beza- teen — Coptic Church — Greek Church — English Episcopal Service — Citadel — Anecdote — Old Caii-o — Anecdote — ilosques — General Appearance — Preparations to Visit Palestine — Insurrection at Aleppo — Eaiiy Egj-pt not Idola- trous — Curiosities — Tetrawan — New Palace — Heliopolis^ Obelisk — Balbeis — Camels — Wells and Women — Robbers — El Ai-ish 409 CHAPTER XIX. PALESTINE. KhanJounes — Murder — Retaliation — Gaza — Quarantine — Laza- retto — Mosque — Ashdod — Ramlah — Hill Country — Jerusa- lem — City Walls — Mosque of Omar — Foimdations of the Temple — Valley of Jehoshaphat — Dr. Gobat — Chiu-ch of the Holy Sepulchre — Literary Society — Pool of Siloam — Ancient Bridge — Moirnt of Olives — Gethsemane — Bethany — Solo- mon's Pools — Hebron — Pilgrims — Machpelah — Mamre — Bethlehem — Gilgal — Jericho — Jordan — Greek Christians — Dead Sea — Naby Moyse — Cisterns in Jerusalem — Supplies of Water — Mohammedanism — Leave Jerusalem — Bethel — Anathoth — Shechem — Jacob's Well — Ebal — Gerizim — Se- baste — Jenin — Esdraelon — Nazareth — Mount Tabor — Lake of Tiberias — City of Tiberias — Magdala — Mount Hermon — Thorns and Thistles — Condition of Women — Baneas — SUk- worms — Druses — Damascus — Missionaries at Damascus — Mohammedanism — Romanism — Outbreak at Aleppo — Jews at Damascus — Zebedane — Baalbec — Immense Block — Diffi- CTilt Travelling — Zachle — Malaka — Hail, Snow, lee — Beyrut — Alexandria — The "Ripon" — Arrival at Southampton — Reach Home — Directors — Papal Aggression — Summing up — Conclusion . . . . . . . . .440 CHAPTEK I. ARRIVAL AT THE CAPE — TABLE BAY SENTIMENT DURING MY VISIT POLITICAL CREED ILLUSTRATIONS CONVICT QUESTION MORAL FEELING OF THE COLONY— GENERAL OBJECTS OF MY MISSION DR. PHILIP UNION CHAPEL NOTICE OF THE COLONY EXTENT, LANDED PROPERTY — EXPORTS CAPE TOWN SEAT OF GOVERNMENT POPU- LATION — CHRISTIAN MINISTRY PRESS — PREPARATION FOR TRAVEL • LING STARTING FOR THE INTERIOR. Amidst the kindest adieus and wishes, I left- home in November, 1848, and embarked at Gravesend for Table Bay, on board the " Lady Flora," Capt. Eagles. A little detained against our will, by unfriendly breezes in the channel, we did not lose sight of the land we loved, till near Christmas. A favourable passage brought us, in the course of Februaiy, to the termination of our voyage. We came to anchor at night, at some little distance from the town. The morning usliered in the magnificent view of Table Mountain, towering in undiminished strength and grandeur, 4000 feet above the level of the ocean ; and there lay scattered before us, the shipping, outward and home- ward bound, riding in the Bay; and there the town itself, spreading out along the margin of the Bay, and rising in the back ground to the foot of the mountain. ' This was not my first visit to South Africa. I had been to Cape Town twice previously : once during my mission to Madagascar, in 1830, and again on my way to England, in 1H:3(). The scene from the deck of the vessel, wliich 1 was now quitting, was thei'efore not new to me'. But it 2 AliltlVAl. AT TIIK TAPE. had Idst none of its charms. It can lose none. There is a bolihioss, grandeur, and sublimity about the Cape, of which the voyager never becomes weaiy, and eveiy object is on a large scale. Table Mountain is lofty, " girded with power," — the range of mountain of which it is a goodly por- tion, vast and extensive. — the dense rolling white cloud on its summit, pouring over its front, and dissolving as it reaches a more genial current of air, awfully grand, — the Bay forming a noble sweep, — and at times the ocean itself rolling in with most magnificent impetuosity. All these have a voice ; they utter forth the gi-eatness of the Creator, and his goodness in fomiing and decorating such a splen- did globe for the habitation of man. I was soon on shore, and amidst familiar scenes and friends. Here my commission commenced, and I found ample occupation in discharging the various sen-ices for which I had gone out to the colony as a deputation from the London Missionary Society. It maybe candid to state at once the aspect under which I viewed the various matters that came under my obser- vation, and the prevailing sentiment which I carried with me, or -sAdshed to cany with me, in all my engagements, and throughout all my tour. I went out, not to visit South Africa as a politician, a diplomatist, a merchant, a hunter, or an adventurer. I went out as the representative of a Missionaiy Society, — prepared, indeed, to hear remarks on all subjects, and from all quarters; anxious to see all that might be deemed of general interest, to collect information from all authentic sources, to exercise my own judgment and a Briton's lil)erty of expressing my opinions ; but I was mainly occupied with the great interests of humanity and Christian Missions. I travelled among the civilized and the uncivilized — the learned and the laide, — and I felt everpvhere confirmed in the sentiment, in which I am persuaded my readers heartily concur, that while Christianity is essential to the highest and permanent prosperitij of nations, it is not less so to the POLITICAL CREED. 3 civilizing process and gradual elevation of the Aboriginal Races, and to the safe and steady advance of colonial depen- dencies in their progress towards ultimate greatness, power, stability, and self-government. My political creed is, that " Pughteousness exalteth a nation," and that every departure from rectitude deterio- rates and debases a community. Christianity, the clearest and latest development of essential and immutable right- eousness, enfoi'ces on every man "to do unto others as he would others should do to him ;" a safe and comprehen- sive maxim, that summons into action the first and deepest principles of human nature, and guides that action so as to subserve the universal well-being of society. The in- stinctive love of our own welfare is constituted the rule of our intercourse with others ; and the only restraint on our liberty, is the innate and salutary dread of suffering evil ourselves ; for the converse of the maxim is as true as the rule itself — We may not do to others what we are unwill- ing they should do to us. When governments and their subjects become thoroughly iml)ued with this practical Christianity, nations will assuredly realize more harmony and prosperity than the pen of history has yet recorded, and the world will reap a richer harvest of " peace on earth and good-will among men," than pro})hets have fore • told, or poets sung. These observations appear to me to apj^ly to our Colo- nies with an augmented force. If in the matured and consolidated community, Christianity alone constitutes the healthful and conservativie principle, so in our younger colonial communities, amidst their freshness, boldness, and comparative inexperience, the controlling, guiding, elevat- ing influence of Christian principle is so much tlie more needed, just as, in the season of the buoyant jiassions of youth, a more vigorous, faithful, and guardian watch is required than in the already sobered and well-regulated man of calm and meridian age. Various illustrations of these remarks fell under my i MORAL FEELING OF THE COLONY. observation at the time of my arrival in the colony in the spring of 18-49. In some cases, it Avas the treatment of the Colony by the Home Government that arrested ni} notice ; in others, projected measures of the local Govern- ment ; and in others the treatment of the border tribes by the Gove]'nor as High Commissioner. There seemed to m€ a stretch of authority, an arbitrary exercise of power, in- compatible with the golden rule of equity, — a want of lofty, noble, and generous principle. There were several grave questions afloat at that time : the obtaining a " Constitution" from the mother countiy, that the colony might be fairly self-governed ; another was, a " Vagi-ancy law ; " but the great excitement that prevailed re.spected the admission of convicts from Great Britain, and the dread of its being a plan of the Imperial Govern- ment to convert the colony into a jjenal settlement. The strong moral and rehgious feeling of the colonists, there can be no doubt, was the means of saving it from the deterioration or destruction that would else have been inevitable. The proposed measure was strongly resisted, if not by " vi et armis,'' yet by all constitutional measures, almost to the veiy "edge of legality." The most judicious and right-hearted men in the colony felt that they had strong reasons for opposing the measure. They thought that the extensive and ever-widening surface of the colony, with a sparse population — the comparative distance of the seats of magistracy from one anothei-, and the consequent facility of escape to evil-doors — the easily excitable mate- rials of the i^opulation on the colonial borders, and the immense mischief that a few ill-disposed, but talented " ticket-of-leave" men might effect, were ample gi-ounds of objection to the measui-e. The resistance of the colonists did not originate in any spirit of vexatious opposition to the Home Government — for the colony is most loyal — nor in any unfilial desire to embarrass the mother countiy in the disposal of its convicts ; nor had it any mere party pur- pose to serve. It was the honest moral feeling of the GENERAL OBJECTS OF MY MISSION. 5 colony that was aroused. The dread of an impending danger, tlie extent of whicli the colonists thought could not be overrated, created the invincible resolution to avert an evil of such portentous magnitude, before it actually bm'st on the colony. Great honour is due to the public press of the colony for the lofty moral tone which it assumed on the occasion, and which at once guided and expressed the public sentiment. That sentiment obtained ultimately an honourable issue. The Government of Great Britain yielded to the clearly expressed voice of the colony, as a wise government will not fail to do, when that senti- ment commends itself, as it did in this case, to the im- partial consciences of men as the expression of truth and equity, humanity and sound policy. It may not be unsuitable to introduce here a brief extract from the Letter of Instructions with which I was furnished by the Directors of the London Missionary Society, in relation to my present tour : — " The general objects of your mission are expressed in the following ' Resolution of the Board,' on Avhich your appointment has been founded, namely : — " To devise means for rendering Missions in the Cape Colony more efficient — to inquire into the best means of economising the administration of the Society's funds in their support — to aid in carrying into execution any in- structions the Board may form regarding new arrange- ments of its Missions there — and to report on the whole question of the appointment of a successor to Dr. Philip." From this extract it will immediately appear that one of my earliest steps on reaching the colony would be, to com- municate freely with Dr. Philip himself. And this, I am thankful to say, I had the privilege of doing. I had long known and always revered that eminent man. Wliile yet myself a student for the ministry, thirty-five years ago, T had enjoyed his friendship, and tlie lapse of years had but enlarged and confirmed my estimate of his worth. The more I came to undei'stand of Christian Missions, the more 1>H. riULIP — UNION CHAPEL. sound and comprehensive appeared to me the views of Dr. Philip. He has heen a man of shrewd and philosophic observation, in all that pertains to the history and ad- vancement of Christianity in the world. No man better imderstands the theoiy of Missions. He has brought to that subject a large amount of previous reading and deep thinking. His correspondence on that subject has been of immense value. ^Mlen he shall have finished his course and entei'ed his rest, I fear no " autobiography" will be found to fill up a portion of the vacuum. But I believe materials will exist, and some one competent to use them aright will be found, that our invaluable conductor of South African Missions, though dead, may yet speak. The venerable Doctor Philip I found greatly enfeebled in health, but retaining an undiminished interest in all that pertains to the kingdom of God among men. In- capable of bearing any longer the burden and responsibi- lities of office, as Superintendent of the Society's Missions in South Africa, he had, for a long time, urged on the Directors to make such arrangements as might relieve him, and yet secure the welfare of the Missions. That arrange- ment, I indulge the hope, has been satisfactorily effected. Dr. Philip has retired to Hankey, near Port Elizabeth, where, in the bosom of the sui'viving members of his family, he may pass, amidst the kindest symiiathies and the scenes of usefulness in which he still loves to associate, the evening of his valuable life, — full of faith, and fen'ent in prayer, as in his earliest days, and often illustrating the sentiment of Herbert, of which he frequently reminded me when conversing with him — The soul's dark cottage, battered and decayed, Lets in new light through cliinks that time has made. The pulpit of Union Chapel, Cape Town, had been for some time vacant. The congregation was anxious to obtain a minister, \\liile desirous that he should devote as much of his time and energies to the sei'vice of the NOTICE OF THE COLO>fT. Missionary Society as might be compatible with the faith- ful discharge of his pastoral duties, they were not willing to regard the latter simply as an appendage to the office of an agent or superintendent of the Society's Missions. It occurred, during my visit, that the Rev. W. Thompson, of the Society's Missions in India, touched at the Cape on his way to England. His temporary services were acceptable in Union Chapel, — he was warmly pressed to remain for a time, and ultimately received a cordial invitation to the pas- torship. On visiting England and consulting his friends, Mr. Thompson saw it his duty to accept the invitation, combined with an appointment, on the part of the Directors of the London Missionary Society, to act as their agent. Mr. Thompson returned to Cape Town in the summer of 1850, and has entered on his important sphere of service under auspicious circumstances, which, with God's bless- ing, promise a successful ministry, an efficient agency, and a happy combination of both. A condensed notice here of the colony generally, and of Cape Town itself, may not be altogether unsuitable, nor, to some of my readers, unacce^Dtable. The colony was founded by the Dutch about two centu- ries ago. The Netherland Government sent thither about two hundred men and women from Amsterdam. Thirty- five years afterwards, a valuable accession was made to the infant colony by the settlement of a number of industrious men, who left their home on the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, and who introduced to the Cape the culture of the vine. The English captured the colony in 1795. By the Treaty of Amiens it was restored to the Dutch, but was again taken by the English, in 1800, and finally ceded to them by the king of the Netherlands in 1815. The colony extends about seven hundred miles from west to east, and, on an average, of about two hundred miles from north to south, and thus contains upwaixls of 140,000 square miles. Su})posing all the large extent of territory to be ultimately added to the colony, over which authority has been claimed within the last four years, there would be so immense an addition made to the colony, that " our South African Empire would cover, say 280,000 square miles, an area equal to the whole of the Austrian Empire including Lombardy and adding Piedmont to it.">- The frontier line of this immense empire cannot be less than 1000 miles, and its line of coast probably about 1300, from tlie Gariep or Orange River on the west, to the Kei on the east. The estimated population of the 140,000 square miles first mentioned, is 175,000, being one and a quarter to a square mile. The colony is di\-ided into the two pro- vinces of Eastern and Western ; the principal towns of which are respectively Graham's To^vll and Cape Town. The value of the landed property throughout the Colony as rated for the purposes of the Road Improvement Ordi- nances, is, — For the Western Province £4,000,806 For the Eastern „ 1,665,754 £5,666,560 Wool is largely cultivated and exported. Within the last few years, the increase of this produce has been most satisfactory, to the gi'ower and the exporter. The following brief Table will illustrate this increase : — Exported from Cape To'WTi Port Elizabeth. Total. 1835 . . . J 36,0-20 lbs. . . . 79,848 lbs. . . 215,868 lbs. 1840 . . . 509,597 „ . 401,521 „ . 911,118 „ 1845 . . 1,109,544 „ . 2,085,064 „ 3,194,602 „ 1848 . . 1,590,752 „ . 2,079,968 „ . 3,670,920 „ Some idea of the trade and navigation of the colony may be formed by the following Table. During the year 1 848 : — * See the masterly speech of Sir "\Vm. Molesworth. Debate in the House of Commons, 10th April, 1851. CAPE TOWN. 9 Vessels Tonnage. Out- Customs Imports. Exports. inward. Total. Avards. received. Value. Value. r<«c+-i515 214,979 506 £103,960 £1,152,018 £513,997 ^?^^^" 291 299 wise. J 806 805 • Cape Town, originally laid out by the early Dutch colo- nists, and subsequently improved by the English, has during .he last few yeai's greatly progressed. The erection of new buildings, the covering in the water-courses, the con- structing of an excellent causeway, the introduction of gas, and the scientific laying out of the Botanic Gardens, speak much for the honour of the municij)ality, and the enter- prise of individuals. There is also the promise of still further improvement. There is a large amount of public spirit and intelligence among the inhabitants. If the colony can only be saved from the check and disturbance, the irritation and losses occasioned by wai's on the frontiers, its cajDital towns will make steady advances in everything that is valuable and substantial. Cape Town must con- tinue to be the metropolis of the colony, though in some respects inconveniently distant from the frontier ; but so are Paris in France, and London in England. Table Bay requires a large outlay to make it all that merchants, ship- owners, and insurance offices desiderate ; but that outlay can be made, and every advantage gained. Jetties and breakwaters are occupying the attention of scientific men, of merchants, and the municipality at Cape Town. The distance to Algoa Bay, and Port East London, at the mouth of the Buffalo, can be accomplished by steamers in four or five days, and it is only in that neighbourhood, the vicinity of Kaffirland, that war is likely to occur. Graham's Town is far too much out of the way, in all respects, to be the metropolis of the colony and seat of government. Shipping must come to Table Bay. Port Elizabeth, one hundred miles from Graham's Town, has no harbour. Algoa Bay, on the margin of which the town of Port Eliza- beth stands, is simply a roadstead, and a very uncomfortable 10 SEAT 01'' GOVERNMENT roi'ULATION. one ; natui-e has not given it a harbour, and science cannot make one, tliough it may do mnch to obviate its disadvan- tages. The principal advantage of removing the seat of government to Graham's Town would be, that the Gover- nor woiUd then be rather more in the neighbourhood of our troublesome acquaintances the Kaffirs, and ready to repress any sudden outbreak before it ripened into a war. But it would seem hardly worth while to distm-b and dis- satisty the whole colony merely for that atom of advantage. A commander-in-chief of the forces might reside in the vicinity of an unsettled border, and the seat of government remain Avhere it is. Besides, it may be hoped these border wars will termmate. The present, it is predicted by some, will be the last : most pi'obably it will be, if the Imperial Government will do justice in its settlement of questions with the border tribes, and if the colony is allowed to manage its own affairs, by having a liberal constitution granted, such as there is reason to think will not be much longer withheld, and certainly cannot, with safety. Cape Town, according to the last census of 1842, contains a {copulation of 21,840 ; viz. — Males, 10,612. White, 9,359. Females, 11,228. Coloured, 12,481; engaged in various occujiations, 7319. With regard to religious profession, there were returned as Christian 14,767 Mohammedan 6,435 Jews 170 Uncertain and heathen 621 Showing about two-thirds of the population professedly Christian and nearly one-third Mohammedan. For the Christian portion of the population a very con- siderable amount of Christian instruction is provided. Cape Town is eminently favoured with the institutions of reli gion. For the Mohammedan population not much Chris- CHRISTIAN MINISTRY. 11 tian effort is made of any direct kind : some of their children attend the daily schools of Cape Town, where, in common with other scholars, they receive instruction in Christian truth ; but their parents usually remove them at an early age, partly, it may be, because they require their services at home, and partly also to prevent the risk of their minds becoming too much imbued with the truths of our religion. The general designation of the Mohammedan population in the colony is " Malay;" probably because some of them, or their ancestors, came originally from the islands of the Malayan Archipelago. It is now applied indiscriminately to all who attend the services of the Mohammedan priests, irrespectively of their geographical origin. For the Christian population of Cape Town there is the following provision of i:)laces of worshi}) and ministers ; viz.: Two of the Dutch Eeformed Church, under the ministry of the Eev. Messrs. Faure, Spyker, and Hepis. The Evangelical Lutheran Church, Rev. J. M. K. van Staveren. St. Stephen's Church (a separation originally from the Lutheran Church), Ministers, Rev. Dr. Adamson, and G. W. Stegman. Two English Episcopal Churches. The Rt. Rev. Dr. Gray, Lord Bishop of the diocese, and Rev. W. A. Newman, of St. George's. Rev. R. G. Lamb, of Trinity Church. St. Andrew's Church, Church of Scotland, Rev. G. Mor- gan. Two Congregational Churches : Union Chapel, Rev. W. Thompson. Rev. M. Vogelgczang, at present in hired rooms. Two Wesleyan Chapels. South African Missionary Society, Long Street Chajiel; Rev. J. H. Beck. Free Church of Scotland, Rev. W. Gorrie. Roman Catholic Chapel, and Bishop. 12 THE PRESS. Thoro are numerous day and infant schools, a South African College, a Puhlic Library of 30,000 volumes, Lite- rary and Scientific Listitution, Tract and Book Society, Society for Promoting Christian luiowledge, Oii)han House, "Widow's Fund, Provident Fund, Benevolent Society, and an ample array of local institutions, indicative of mercan- tile prosperity, and the guarantee of its increase, such as Banks, Joint Stock Companies, Gas Light, Fire and Life, Assurance and Trust Companies, Marine Assurance Companies, Steam Company, &c. &c. The Press also in Cape Towai maintains a high and in- fluential position. The "Commercial Advertiser" has long sustained a lofty chai^acter for talent, intelligence, truthful- ness, and liberality. It has been the advocate of all en- lightened measures in the internal management of the colony, and of a just and humane policy towards the border tribes. The " Cape Town Mail," and the " Cape of Good Hope Observer," are rendering eminent service by the diffusion of sound and liberal sentiments, and the impar- tial discussion of great and vital principles. " The Zuid Afrikaan," and "Het Volksblad," are popular organs Avith their respective supporters. Government has its "Gazette," and its friends their own "IMonitor;" the merchants have their " Shipping and Mercantile Gazette ;" the Orange River Settlement, Graham's To^ni. Port Elizabeth, and Natal, ' have their own periodicals, of greater or less value, but all indicating that men are awake and jjrepared to think and act for themselves on the great platform of free and intel- ligent society. During the early part of my stay in Cape Town, I em- braced an opportunity of waiting on his Excellency the Governor, Sir Harry Smith, to whom I was introduced by Dr. Philip. I explained to him the objects of my visit to the Colony, and received from hiqi the assurance of his interest in the Missionary enterprise, and his readiness to afford me any facilities in his power ; and I found the same courtesy and offers of service on the part of the PEEPARATION FOR TRAVELLING. 13 Honourable INIr. Montague, Colonial Secretary. And here I may be allowed to say that, strongly as I think civilians ai'e to be preferred as governors of most of our colonies, such as Sir Alexander Johnston, of Ceylon ; Sir Stamford Eaflfles, of Sumatra ; and Lord William Bentinck, of India, there is yet much in the hero of Aliwal, now Governor of the Cape of Good Hope, to admire. He is studiously anxious to promote the welfare of the Colony ; he is un- wearied in his application to business; and many of his plans are wise, sound, and beneficial. Of his decision, promptness, and bravery, there can be no question. But his decision may be at the expense of accuracy and equity, his i^romptness may comiiromise his discretion, and his bravery may be without magnanimity. He may fondly lean on the lyrestige of his own name, and reject wholesome suggestions ; and yet be the victim of adulation and the mere organ of a party. He may give himself credit for being unbiased, and yet succumb to ungenerous prejudices. The truth is, Sir Harry Smith has far too much on his hands ; too much simply as Governor, and esi^eeially with- out a Council, and immensely too much also as High Com- missioner for the Affairs of the Border Tribes. The relief of his Excellency, the welfare of the Colonists, the peace of the Border Territoi-y, and the honour of the Imperial Government, are all bound up in the self-government of the Colony. The measures of his Excellency in relation to the "Border Tribes," will fall under observation in the subsequent part of this volume. Having offered this brief sketch of the colony and of Cape Town, I commence my Tour. It need scarcely be remarked, that English travelling and colonial travelling are two very different things ; they represent the two opposite ideas of swiftness and slowness — of all convenient and inviting an-angements made /or you, and of all neces sary yet complex arrangements you make for yourself. But man adapts himself with marvellous facility to all climates and all circumstances, and nature everywhere 14 SIR IIARKY SMITH. provides him with an ample fund of materials to gratify and instruct him. I found I must now prepare myself in soher earnest, and with all the patience which familiarity with railway speed had left me, for the rather tedious method of travelling two and a-half miles or three miles an hour, in a huge wagon, drawn by some ten or twelve stout oxen. The usual cost of a well-made wagon, fitted up for the journey, and with all the needful gear, is about £100. The oxen requisite cost about half that sum. At the end of the journey the wagon generally sells for about half its cost, or if not much damaged, two-thirds. The oxen are by that time of diminished bulk and value. They are changed into lean kine, and require a vacation to graze and ruminate. The traveller must procure a driver and leader. In these sendees the Hottentots are unequalled. A good attendant who can cook, " and make himself gene- rally useful," is essential to the traveller's well-being. An adequate supply of provisions must be laid in for the journey. Warm clothing for the day, and some warm blankets for night, will be found welcome companions on the road. The nearer the traveller approximates to the homoeopathic use of wines, the smaller the chance of breakage and vexation. Two good casks of fresh water suspended under the wagon, and supplied from time to time from " Afric's sunny fountains," without their golden sands, w'ill enable him to enjoy the luxuiy of a refreshing cup of bohea or coffee, on the shortest notice. Bread, meat, and poultiy, can usually be obtained on the road, till the traveller gets beyond the boundaries of what we term civilized life. For dainties and luxuries, he had better wait — till he can procure them ; or if veiy anxious for them, he had better — not undertake the journey. My arrangements being completed, I set out from Cape Town in May, 1849, with the design of A-isiting, in the first instance, all our Missionary stations and institutions within the colony. For a fortnight after leaving Cape Town I was not a solitary traveller; my friend, the Eev. E. Miller, STARTING FOR THE INTERIOR. 15 of the Free Scotch Church, Cape Town, and now at Chin- surah, accompanied me as far as Swellendam and George, Zuurbrak and Pacaltsdorp. My wagon preceded me to Hottentot's Holland Kloof. The next day Mr. Miller and myself followed in a hired horse vehicle, and overtook the four-wheeled conveyance soon after sunset. This plan of despatching the wagon first, allows the traveller a little time to breathe, to look round him, to complete sundry minor arrangements, which there are sure to be ; then to shake hands with his friends, and "start for the interior." CHAPTER 11. SWELLENDAM, DR. ROBERTSOX — DUTCH EMIGRANT BOERS ZUUR- BRAK, VAGRANCY LAW MAGISTRATE'S REPORT MISSIONARY REMARKS ON SAID REPORT INDUSTRY OF THE PEOPLE DEBTS D. MOODIE, ESa. CONTINUANCE OR ABANDONMENT OF MISSIONARY INSTITUTIONS? OPINION OF DR. PHILIP ROUTE TO PACALTSDORP INSTITUTION THERE PUBLIC MEETING GEORGE CRADOCK PASS GATE KAMPHOOR HORSE CAR AND NATIVE DRIVING DYSSELS- DORP PUBLIC MEETING OUDSHORN MINERAL SPRINGS LABOUR QUESTION CANGO CAVERNS AVONTUUR, MR. HOOD ANECDOTE OF A KAFFIR. On lea^'ing Cape Town, my route was almost due east along the colony. I passed through the district of Stel- lenbosch, and observed with much gratification some of the admirable hnprovemeuts lately made in the colonial roads there, under the able direction of the lamented and talented Colonel Mitchel, Sui-s-ey or- General, especially at Sir Lo\vry"s Pass, in this district, and at Houw Hoek, in the Swellendam district. I passed, at a httle distance, the village of Caledon, with its chalybeate spring (heat 92 deg.), said to be so useful in cases of chronic rheumatism ; and I saw, at no great distance, the Moravian establishment of Genadenthal ; but which, as I had aiTanged to be at Zum'- brak on the following Sunday, I had not the opportunity of visiting on this occasion. I had visited that institution some years previously. Its histoiy and value are before the public. SWELLENDAM. IT Swellendam is a large district, and has extensive flocks of fine-Avoolled sheep. There is also a superior breed of horses. Some enterprising farmers have of late years paid much attention to these sources of wealth. The soil yields abundance of grain, and various fruits, which are dried and sold in the colonial markets. Wine and brandy are also made ; and among the products of the farms must be added, tallow, butter, soap, and aloes. There is not much to attract the notice of the traveller on the road through the district to the town of Swellendam. In geology, a large portion of the country consists of hard coarse slate and sandstone, belonging, I presume, to the Silurian formation ; then some portion of old red sand- stone, and above that hard ironstone, quartzose rock, blocks of granite and sandstone. The rainy season had ■ not yet commenced when I was there ; a few spring leaves of gladioluses and other bulbous flowers, were diligently pushing their way through the soil. Trees were very scarce ; human beings more so ; farms seemed few, and with very limited signs of wealth or comfort. Of birds and wild animals we saw none : all was still life, with a fine clear atmosphere, sj^lendid weather, and magnificent nights; a stony path under our feet, and "the milky way" above us, full of glory ; " Scorpio," quietly stretching out at full length before us, and the " southern cross" far up in the heavens, — a sign, as it seemed, that the cross of redemption shall ultimately be ascendant everywhere, and bright over every dark spot of our earth. The town of Swellendam is pleasantly situated in a fer- tile valley. The climate is salubrious, but the atmosphere is rather humid : its heat in summer, about 80 deg. It contains some good substantial family residences, in part after the old Dutch style, and in part after a modernized English fashion. There is a good church, a parsonage, a town hall, and a gaol, besides sundry other pnl)lic build- ings. I had an agreeable interview here with J >r. Uolici'tson, minister of the Dutch Keformed Cliurrh. Jlc hud lately 18 DUTCH EMIGRANTS. been on a visit to the emigrant Dutch Boers, far in the interior, in and beyond the Orange Eiver sovereignty, administering to them the ordinances of reUgion. It ap- peared to me that much more was wanted to promote the reh-nous wehare of those numerous emigrants than these occasional visits and periodical administrations of Bap- tism and the Lord's Supper. The community of the Dutch Pieformed Church of the colony is large, respectable, and wealthy. Perhaps it may be rather languid, and, like most establishments, some- what Tuiwieldy and difficult to move ; but it could not undertake a nobler mission than that of suppljdng their emigrant brethren with pastors, evangelists, and teachers, by whom I doubt not they would be well received (espe- cially if of Dutch extraction), and by whom they would be in part cheerfully sustained. The number of the emigrants is not exactly knovai. It cannot, however, comprise a community of less than twenty to twenty-five thousand persons. Their difficulties and suiferings have been immensely gi'eat ; and whatever differ- ences of oi;)inion may prevail as to their political relation to the colony, or their conduct towards the colony, no Christian mind can hesitate to desire for them, — just as many among them desire it for themselves, — an ample supply of spiritual instruction, without which they and their families must retrograde in everything pertaining to vital and practical religion ; when, instead of being bless- ings to the heathen round about them, they would make both the name of Christian and of white man to be utterly abhorred. Our Missionaiy Institution at Zuurbraak is about twelve miles from Swellendam. For its early histoiy I refer to the works of Rev. J. Campbell and Dr. Philip. Our vene- rable and eminently useful Missionary there, Eev. D. Helm, had lately entered into his rest. He was a man of eminent piety, much given to prayer, greatly honoured by all who knew him, and greatly prospered in his labour. ZUUBBKAAK INSTITUTION. 19 His eldest son succeeds him in the office of Missionary and Superintendent of the Institution, and a younger son in the office of Schoohnaster — both of them devoted to the important work they have undertaken. Instead of the fathers come up the children. The village, although not to be compared M^ith many of our English villages in romantic beauty, taste, and elegance, is not without its charms, and especially to a traveller who is willing to compare, as justice requires he should, existing things, not merely with the highest forms of civilization in com- munities of long standing and rich advantages, but with the former state of things, in which degi*adation, neglect, contempt, and insult, were the lot of the peoi^le, and out of which they had to emerge amidst many difficulties. It is something to have changed the old kraal into a decent village — the old kaross into substantial European clothing — idleness into industry, ignorance into intelligence, self- ishness into benevolence, and heathenism into Christianity. My impressions on entering the village of Zuurbraak, and passing through a portion of it to the Mission pre- mises, were on the whole j^leasing, and yet somewhat sombre. There are some signs of improvement. Some houses are rebuilding, but many huts yet remain. There are gardens, but they want enclosures. There is not all one wishes to see, as proof that so much has been done for the peojDle's improvement. Yet, when I compare what exists with the past, and think of two hundred families residing here, so far advanced as they are, I am grateful, encouraged, and even joyous. All are decently housed to what they formerly were, — in far better condition than the peasantry of England in the palmy days of Elizabeth, or the peasantry of Ireland now, — they are comfortably clad in fabrics of English manufacture ; all are on the way to a higher civilization, and all enjoy the ordinances of religion. Besides attending the usual public services on the Sunday, I went in the afternoon to the schools. The adults were in the chapel, the children in the school-room. 20 VAGKANCY LAW. Of the fonnor I I'oiuul one hundred and lifty men, and one hunchvd and twenty women in the classes ; of the latter, about one hundred and forty. I heard most of the classes read a little. About twenty or thirty women read with very creditable facility; some of them with gi'eat ease. Some old i:)ersons ai-e also doing their best, though evi- dently commencing rather too late in life to make much progress. But it is a sight worth looking at — specta- cles employed to learn ABC. Cato began Greek at eighty. After school a prayer-meeting was held. The natives conducted the devotional exercises ; and I must say they did so with iutelligence, simplicity, and apparent fervour. A native woman pitched the well-known tunes of Devizes, Derby, and Mariner's, familiar to my ears from my youth upward. In tlie morning we had had the Old Hundi-edth, and Irish. The voice of joy and rejoicing is in the taber- nacles of the righteous. It was often exhilarating, amidst African jounieymg, to hear the songs of Zion from musical native voices, to notes so jubilant in one's own land. I found considerable excitement here, as mdeed in many other parts of the colony, in consequence of some recent efforts to revive a "vagi'ancy law;" the design of which is to commit men as vagrants, and compel them to work, for limited jDeriods, who might be found travelling about without some "pass," or ticket of penuission to remove. Such a measure may supersede some evils ; it may detect and punish some that are idle, vicious, and ill-disposed, and it may prevent "squatting." But it creates greater evils than it prevents. It cannot be sustained without inflicting much oppression and cruelty, especially in a colony where there are no poor laws ; and it is this con- sideration Avhich renders a vagrant law so emphatically unjust and inappropriate. The labourer has no parish to appeal to for relief; he must look out for work, and yet, in doing that, — in cariying his labour to the best market, — he is liable to be apprehended, and his labour forced fi'om magistrate's report. 21 him in the worst market. Such a measure, if carried, would assuredly rather injure than benefit the farmer. The industrious agricultural servant would be disgusted, and would " trek," that is, would leave the colony in search of a quiet settlement elsewhere, in the interior, to avoid its possible application to himself. It appears to alii right- minded men I conversed with on the subject, that in the absence of poor laws, to provide for the necessitous, a vagrant law could never be an equitable measure. Amidst contending ojiinions as to the supj^ly of labour, and the value of Missionary Institutions as creating and encouraging, or limiting and discouraging that labour, the Cape Government had very properly resolved on instituting careful local inquiry. Circulars were accordingly issued to the civil commissioners, magistrates, justices of the peace, ministers, missionaries, and other persons of intel- ligence and influence in the colony. Official Reports had been ti-ansmitted to the Government. That which re- spected Zuurbraak was not favourable to the character of the people and the Institution. The Government had, with great consideration and fairness, sent it back to the re- sident and responsible Missionary, for his remarks and explanations. I think it would not be an easy task to exonerate the parties who drew up that Report from a sus- picion either of prejudice, or of haviiig performed their work very superficially and discreditably. They remark, in their Report to the Government — " From the loose manner in which the whole establishment is con- ducted, the absence of all control over its members by the superm- tendent, and there being no correct register or record for our guidance, we could arrive at no conclusion as to the number of persons belonging to the Institution. The superintendent believed there must be about 1400 or 1500, including all ages ; but as many came for a month or two, and then went away for indefinite periods, he could not vouch for the accuracy of his statement or his books." In reply to this ungenerous passage, the Missionary re- marks in his letter to the Government, dated 29th May, 22 missionary's statement. 1840, written wliilo I happened to be at Zuurbraak, and while I had the opportunity of testing, personally, the ac- curacy of the IMissionarys statements — "I beg to say, that no adequate opportunity was afFordcd me dtiring the examination, of giving the evidence which I could have given, and was perfectly willing to afford, had I received any courteous treatment from the commissioners, or had proper time been allowed me. The truth is, I had returned only on the Saturday from a journey, I had my public service to prepare for and attend to on the Sunday, and on the Monday the examination commenced, I soon found that my presence was unwelcome, and my evidence regarded as suspicious. I produced the records of the Institution, and placed them upon the table of the coiomissioners. I never said, ' I covdd not vouch for the accuracy of my statements or my books.' I said I could not vouch for the accuracy of my memory in matters of detail, without referring to my books. I did not say 'that many came for a month or two, and then went away for mdefinite periods.' " Records have been kept from the commencement of the Institu- tion, and they show exactly the numbers admitted, the births, deaths, and removals ; they exhibit a total of 2100 as having belonged to the Institution since its commencement ; they justify my statement, that between fourteen and fifteen hundred are still connected v.-iih. it, by retaining their names on the register, and regEirdiug Zuurbraak as their home, though fi-om three to four hundred do not permanently reside on the Institution, but are m the sendee of the farmers. K their names were erased from the register on account of absence, they would prefer to leaAe the farmers' service and retui'n to reside on the Institution, This was clearly explained to the commissioners, but is not noticed in their Report, "At present there are about 1100 residing at Zuurbraak, consisting of 215 families. Out of the whole number belonging to the Institu- tion, 200 men served in the Kaffir w-ar in 1846, and about 150 in 1847. " There is nothing 'loose in conducting the establishment or in ex- ercising such control as falls within the province of the Missionary. He has no magisterial authority, and does not desire to have any : his influence is of a moral and rehgious character. The residents on the Institution are all enrolled, aU known and visited, and are all under the religious mstruction and care of the Missionarj\ "With their civil and domestic arrangements he has no power to interfere. The people are a free people, and dispose of their labour in the best market they can find. The lands belong to Government, and neither the Missionary nor the Missionary Society has any legal power to TABULAR REPOKT. 23 exiJel any inhabitant. At the same time, the people entertain great respect for the character, advice, and control of the Missionary. He is not without influence, but it is moral, and not magisterial. " Again, the Commissioners had reported that the members of the Institution, having been preA'iously warned of the inquuy and exami- nation that was to take place, were at our request assembled in the chapel; and when all collected excepting the sick, the members present were ascertained to be, 161 males, and 135 females. Of these, 105 were examined, besides the women, who said they could read ; the remainder left the chapel of theii- own accord, or were said to be persons whose parents had given evidence. "The Tabular Report shoAvs the result of this examination, which may be briefly siunmed up as follows : — " Tlu'ee could read a verse of the New Testament tolerably well. " Three could -WTite their names. " Fifteen attempted to read, but then- progress was so imperfect as to be a failure. •' Eighty-seven said they could neither read nor A\Tite. " Twelve stated themselves to be of a particular calling, trade, or business. •' Ninety- thi-ee said they followed no particular trade or employ- ment, but cultivated their gardens, and went about the coimtry to cut wood, plough, drive wagons, reap, and other agricultui'al work, without being in any regular service. " Of the 105, few could teU theii' own, their wives', or their cliild- ren's ages. " A subscription of one sliillmg per month appears to be contri- buted by each family towards the London Missionary Society." On this passage the Missionary remarks, as to three only being found who could read a verse of the New Testament tolei'ably well — "I affirm that there are at least 140 persons belongmg to the Insti- tution, above eighteen years of age, who can read any chapter hi the Bible with ease, and so as to understand it." I must say, I quite believe this statement, for I heard very many read on the Sunday afternoon I was there, with perfect ease and correctness. " ' Three could "HTite their names.' There are at least /o;-^y adults who can AVTito tolerably well. " 'Eighty-seven could neither read nor write.' It is probable that 24 NATIVE ixnrsTRT. several who could cither read or A\Tite, were prevented by mere shy- ness from acknowledging what would perhaps immediately lead to an unfavoiu-ablc exhibition of thcii- qualifications before judges, whom, from their bearing, they could not help looking \ipon as prejudiced against them and the Institution. " But, if it had been as stated in the Report, some allowance ought to have been made for the difficulty persons must find who begin, wlicn adults, to learn to read and -wTite, and who are constantly em- ployed in the field as agricultural laboui-ers." Again : — " ' Twelve said they were of a particular calling, trade, or business; and ninety-five represented themselves as agriciiltural laboui'ers.' "Out of 250 men," rejoms the Missionary, "residing on the Insti- tution, 187 support themselves and families by engaging as farmers' labourers, and ai'e in regular service. The rest of the men are wood cutters, carriers, five or six are small fanners, and a few are mechanics." That many of the adults do not know theii' own ages, or that of their children, may he perfectly true, nor do they attach much importance to the matter. The Commissioners state, that one shilling per month is contributed by each family towards the London Mission- ary Society. " The fact is, there is an Auxiliary to that Society ; and it has raised dm-ing the last ten years an average amount of £40 — showing that only about one-thu-d of the sum stated by the Commissioners has been realized. If all paid as stated by them, it would nearly relieve the funds of the Parent Society of any charge for supporting the Missionary, — an object very much to be desked." The ^Missionary has no interest in the amount raised. He receives his salary from the Parent Society, and the contributions of the people, whether large or small (which are all voluntaiy) are paid into the Society's funds as those of an Auxiliary. The Commissioners sj^eak of liberated negroes as ad- mitted to the Institution. There is neither law, custom, nor princi2:)le, to forbid this, even if it were so ; but the truth is, only five have been admitted ; and of these, three EAEXIKGS OF THE PEOPLE. 25 were admitted on account of their having married yomig women belonging to the Institution. " Others reside here," the Commissioners state, "who are with dra'WTi from agricultural labour m the district, and have realized property, and one such is specified. This is granted; but these men have realized the property suice they came to the Institution, by their industry and fi-ugality. It would be cruel and imjust to expel them on this groiuid. They are useful examples to all the rest, and they deserve enco\iragement themselves. " In proof of the general industry of the people, it may be remarked, that out of the fu'st fifty-two names wMch occur in the tabidar list given by the Conmiissioners, thirty-five who happen now to be here, and who have given an account of their labours and earnings duriag the last year, actually obtained durmg that period £809. This was realized mainly by the men, but aided to some extent by the women, in the sale of mats, and dress-making. This is exclusive of the garden produce raised and used by theu- families, and of the food given to the men by the farmers while actually in their employment. The above account gives an average of about £23 10s. for each famUy, in. money ; and this is about the amount that is raised by the families generally throughout the Institution, as the reward of their diligent labour and honest industry." The above quotations might be sufficient to meet the case. But, as the Eeport of the magistrates so deeply affects the character of the Missionary Institutions, I am persuaded that it is due to them to add these further re- marks of Mr. Helm : — "Another proof of the general industry, and amount of the earn- ings of the people of the Institution, is the sums realized by persons, who, at the request of the people, and in order to obviate the neces- sity for their resorting to villages where there are canteens, have been encouraged to open shops at the Institution. One has rethed, having realized m five or six years £800, by his profits on the manufactm-es, &c., which he sold; and I have been shown the books of another, by which it appears that he receives above £100 per month in cash, and more than twice as much during the harvest and sheep -shearing months. I am authorised by Mr. Barry to state that he pays above £600 sterling amiually to carriers belonging to the Institution ; and by a gentleman in the neighbourhood, who sliears between 4000 and •^0 CHMtACTER OF THE INSTITUTION'S. 5000 sheep, and reaps from 100 to 200 muids of grain, that, beside from 200 to 300 rix dollars, (equal to one shilling and six pence each) which he pays to Hottentots constantly in his service, he pays more than .500 rix dollars — a sum equal to £37 10*. sterling — in wages to day labom-crs belonging to the Institution ; and the probability is, that as much is jiaid, in proportion to their -want of labour, by all Avho ti-ust to the Institution for a supply of day labour. " The married women do not go out to Avork, as a general rule. They have all families, and they reside at home to attend to their households, manufacture mats, &c. It is not the A\ish of the men that their -nives shoidd go out to labour ; they laboui* for them and their chilcken. Many of the yoiuig women lU'e out in service at Swellendam and elsewhere." A severe insinuation is made on the general character of those who are admitted to the Institution, in the following terms : — "From what came under our notice, it is evident no hindrance or obstacle is thi-o-\\Ti in the way of parties, of whatever character, resort- ing there, and making Zum-braak their home," &c. It must be admitted that many who come and seek ad- mission are not religious ; and it is feared that some w'ho reside on the Institution are not religious. But all who come profess to be so, that they may enjoy the advantages of religious instruction, and all who reside on the Institu- tion avail themselves of such instruction ; and assuredly no temptations are offered to others of vicious character to come there for residence, for no canteen is permitted, and there are no females who are known to be of depraved habits. No females live in houses by themselves ; all the houses are occupied by married couples and their families. "With regard to 'debts,' I must distinctly affirm that no encourage- ment is given to any to incur debts; and, in fact, not more than £100 is due from the entire population, not even a twentieth part of their amiual earnings. The Missionary has no interest whatever in the shop, or the sale of goods in any way. " I cannot close my letter without briefly remarking on the spirit of the Report. I consider it flagrantly unjust tOM-ards the people, for whose general character, as honest, diligent, virtuous, and sober, I solemidy vouch. The Report is unfaithful to the people, whom it D. MOODIE, ESQ. '27 grossly misrepresents ; and to the government, which it is calciilated to deceive. The supposed l^Titer of it, the party principally employed on it, — and who, I may remark, had previously committed himself too seriously to be considered an impartial judge, — may have foimd difficulty in obtaining servants and labourers, wliich, if the whole truth were told, might reflfect more discredit on himself than on the people. On this, however, I forbear to remark, especially as he is now absent from the colony." The gentleman referred to in the above letter, D. Moodie, Esq., Justice of the Peace, was present at a subsequent ex- amination of 104 heads of families belonging to the Institu- tion, as to their occupations and their earnings. He has borne testimony to the progressive improvement of this people.* He is competent to form a judgment on the case from his long residence in the neighbourhood, his practical know- ledge of the people, and his official intercourse with them. The following is an extract from Mr. Moodie's testimony : — "I certify that I have possessed, and generally occupied my present residence, within an hour's ride of the Institution, during a period of thirty-two years, and, deducting short periods of absence, have re- sided here more than a quarter of a century ; that I know almost every resident member of the Institution ; that, for several years, an exception has been rare to the general fact, that the Hottentots of Zutu-braak Institution earn an honest livelihood, perhaps in the very best way that it could be done for the interests of the commmiity of which they form a part ; that, for several years, thefts of sheep or cattle are seldom heard of, and the suspicion, when they do occur, generally attaches rather to wandering persons of colour than to the residents of any Missionary Institution ; that there is no country in the world where property of the kind is more sectu-e at present from depredation than in the neighbourhood of Zuui-braak." There cannot be anything more unjust or subversive of the best interests of humanity than the obloquy so wantonly heaped on the Missionaries, to whose character and exer- tions the present advanced state of civilization amongst the * See "Blue Book," entitled Addenda to the Documents on the Working of the Order in Council of July 21st, 184G, i). 98, Cape Town, 1849. 28 CONTINUANCE OR ABANDONMENT Hottentots and coloured population is principally owing, on the alleged ground of their management of the tempo- ral concerns of their hearers, by interfering with them in the disposal of their labour. The public are indebted to the Missionaries hitherto for having, merely by their moral influence, without a shadow of legal authority, saved to it the expense of Institutions required for the control of assemblages equally numerous in other localities. In noticing the advances the Hottentots have made in civilization, the progress they" have made in erecting for themselves, for persons of their class, really^ substantial houses, and the acquisition of other comforts, should not be ovei'looked ; and this they have done under the most unfavourable circumstances, Avithout any recognised indi- vidual right to the soil, or even their own capital, which they have fixed upon it. There can be no doubt that there is ample room for im- provement in the Institution, as indeed in all of them, and it might be difficult to find any institution in the world, in Avhich there is not room for improvement. It is evident that in all these South African Institutions, there might be more industry, better houses, larger portions of land brought under culture ; the people might do more towards their own social and religious improvement. Perhaps much of this would be eff"ected, if the jieople were more encouraged. The Hottentot labourer requii'es a stimulus, not that of the threat or the lash, but kind treatment and fair wages ; and when among the farmei-s, some decent place to lodge and sleep in ; in a word, to be made to feel that he is regarded as a reasonable being. It may not be out of place here, to allude to the grave question of the continuance or abandonment of these In- stitutions altogether. Some have thought that the time has come when they are no longer required; w'hen the people might be left to their own energies and resources, without that constant superintendence supplied by the OF MISSlONAnY INSTITUTIONS. 29 Missionaries, and when tlie colony would be more gene- rally benefited by their distribution among the farmers, than by retaining them congregated in their present lo- calities. Others, without adopting all these views, have thought it would be advantageous to give the Hottentots a freehold right in the soil of the Institutions, so that they should have the power of sale and transfer, and that, possessing an interest of that nature in the soil, they would feel a stronger inducement to improve it, and to build substantial houses. The objection to this is, that, in all probability, the Hottentots, for the most part, under the prospect of a temporary advantage, would be tempted to sell and alienate their lands. Europeans or colonists would become the purchasers, the aborigines would soon cease to retain an interest in the soil, the design of the Institutions would be wholly superseded, and the pur- poses of Government, in gi'anting this use of the land, frustrated. It appears to me altogether undesirable to dissolve the Institutions. The Hottentots and other natives enjoy moral and religious advantages there, which they could not if dispersed through the colony. If dispersed, their fami- lies would be left without education, and would rajiidly deteriorate; they themselves would sink into dependency and apathy, for want of the symj^athy of numbers, of class, and of association, and for want of the guidance and cheer- ing counsel of the Christian Pastor. They would be, moreover, exposed to the prejudices still largely existing against colour, without the indemnifying feeling which they now have, that they form a community, and a community of some importance. Their isolation, if dispersed, would destroy this remnant of consolation, and they would inevi- tably sink under the oppi'essive feeling of being a people. " scattered, peeled, and trodden down." It may be worthy of consideration also, whether the colony and the Government would not be greatly injured by the dispersion of the residents of the Institutions. The 30 OriNTON OF Dn. putltp. farmers have thought it would necessarily augment the number of their labours. I think the effect would be just the reverse. JNIany of these people, distrusting their em- ployers, and fearing that a vagrancy law would soon be introduced, would migrate, and pass beyond the colonial boundaries. This Avas the resolution, I know, which many of them had formed, in case a vagrancy law were adopted : and their dispersion would produce the same effect. In case of border-war with the Kaffirs, the Government has hitherto found it a matter of convenience to appeal to all these Institutions at once for effective aid ; and until the present war (1850), the appeal has been successful. This may, perchance, not be a reason for sustaining the Institutions, in the view of members of the Peace Society, but I am suggesting it as a view of the case which the local government cannot altogether overlook, whose oi:)inion. it is understood, is not favourable to the perpetuation of the Institutions. To this I will only add the deliberate judgment of the venerable Dr. Philip, as communicated to the Directors of the Missionary Society, in December, 1848. His remarks arise out of a suggestion that " the property, i.e. the land, be made absolutely transferable," or, "transferable under the important condition, (to prevent the whole from falling into the hands of one or two speculators,) that " one person only should hold one original share of the lands." Dr. P. observes : — " At present, the residents or members of those Institutions, while their families are receiAing instruction, are useful to the neighbour- ing farmers as labourers, and in various capacities perform useful service to the public. "WTien not so employed, they also receive instruction and find a home at the Institution. In this manner an educated and moral class of labourers, or peasantry, is gradually formed and distributed throughout the colony ; for whenever an individual or family think they can better their condition by removing to a to^\ai or village, or to some agricultural district, they feel at per- fect liberty to do so ; and this is the distinguishing characteristic of our Institutions or Schools. They are preparatory Institutions for PACALTSDOKP. 31 converting the savage and heathen natives of the colonj^ into a civUizcd and Christian and free chiss of citizens, ready to fulfil the duties of any rank or station to which then- mdustry, talents, and good conduct may raise them. This has been accomxDlished m the case of many thousands, who still warmly proclaim that they owe all they enjoy, or hope for, to these Institutions ; but thousands still remam for whom they must be kept open, luiless we are prepared, when domg good, to say 'It is enough,' though the work is still im- perfect. When all are educated for whom these Institutions were established in 1801, or when means equally effective for promoting among them the knowledge of Christ are adopted throughout the whole colony, or when they shall no longer be needed as asylums, then may the lands be made the fi'eehold property of the existing holders ; then may all distinctions between these and other villages be abolished, and the coloui-ed classes, no longer barbarians or heathens, may then be left like all their fellow subjects to theii- o-wti resources." If any radical change were to be effected in these Insti- tutions, such as the resum^jtion of the lands by the Government, if that were deemed an equitable and proper measure, then I am disposed to think, it would be expedient for the Missionary Societies, or other parties friendly to the aborigines, to purchase large farms in the most suitable localities, and constitute these native villages, when the land might be let on easy but remunerative terms, where suitable regulations could be adopted and carried into effect, more rigidly than now, where the Missionary has no power to eject members however injurious to the local com- munity, and discreditable to the Missionary Society, which is held responsible, in public estimation, for the character and conduct of all the residents in the Institutions. After having paid a visit to Mr. Moodie, the magistrate already mentioned, I proceeded towards Pacaltsdorp, a distance of about three days' journey. The fii'st niglit we remained at Iliversdale, a rising village and promising district. Here is some fine rich country, consisting of extensive plains and valleys, watered by the Vet stream. The hills reminded me of those of Worccstersliire and Devonshire, — sloping and gently rounded. They belong 32 PACALTSDORP. to the old red sandstone formation. From thence we pro- ceeded toward the Gauritz River, and rested for the night within three miles of it. The descent is steep and difficult. We crossed in safety, and hoped to reach Pacaltsdorp that evening, and for that purpose had hired an additional team of oxen at Eiversdale ; hut we found the distance too great, and the cattle two feehle. Besides having his horned cattle, the traveller in Africa frequently finds himself in the " horns" of a dilemma. If he travels in the rainy season, his oxen obtain grass, but the rivers are swollen, and there is delay, as the shoulders of the animals are grazed and scarred by the yokes, and they cannot draw ; and if he travel in the dry season he finds neither sufficient grass nor water, and his cattle are unfit for much service ; and then he sighs for the comfort of English travelling. We spent part of the Sunday at the Convict Station, where we had permission to hold a service. We slept that night near the Guayang Eiver, crossed it early next morning, ascended the neighbom-ing hill and soon came in sight of Pacaltsdorp. Six of the people came forward on horseback to give me their greeting, and on getting near the village about seventy or eighty more on foot; they sang a Dutch hymn, as they proceeded by the side of my wagon, to the heart-stirring tune of " God save the Queen" — a tune that always adds some 25 per cent, to the pulse of an Englishman, in whatever quarter of the world he may chance to be ; we presently passed within the green painted gates of the Institution, and found ourselves welcomed by the Piev. Mr. and Mrs. Atkinson, and Eev. W. Anderson, then in his eightieth year, and the fiftieth of his Missionary service. We held a public meeting that evening. About two hundred and fifty of the people attended. I embraced the opportunity of addressing them on various points relating to their social improvement and religious advantages. The Piev. E. Miller, who had accompanied me thus far, did the same. About eight of the people then responded to our PACALTSDORP. 33 remarks, in a brief but appropriate manner. Their re- marks were principally confined to their spiritual interests ; they acknowledged how much they were indebted to the gospel for all their improvement and enjoyment which had been conveyed to them by our Society, and which they knew and felt to be the truth. Two of them spoke with much ease and fluency, and on my inquiring afterwards Avho they were, it was with no little satisfaction I found that one of them was Andries Kogerman, who was to be my attendant from this spot through the rest of my journey, a deacon of the Church, and who had often accompanied Dr. Philip, in the same capacity. Aiid I found him to the end of my journey, and till I left the colony, a faithful, kind, attentive, and excellent man.* Pacaltsdorp takes it name from Mr. Pacalt, an excellent Missionary from Germany, formerly placed here by the Directors of the London Missionary Society, and whose memory is held in honour by the people. The Institution has laboured under disadvantages. The land is held by ,a " ticket of occupation" from the Government ; but unless the people have a personal right in the soil, they are scarcely willing to improve it so diligently as they might do ; at any rate, they plead this as an excuse for not doing it. A farm in the neighbourhood has been purchased for their benefit, and towards which they contributed a por- tion. They appeared to me to require stimulating ; and yet the incessant demand for stimulus is extremely fatiguing and exhausting to a Missionary. They have a Missionary of great mildness and excellence to labour among them. In addition to all his other services, he takes charge of the school ; and one cannot but hope he may witness the suc- cess of his toil, both among the juvenile and the adult * Andi-ies was leaving his wife and family, to accompany me for many months. As he could not write, and therefore could carry on no direct correspondence with his home, I advised him to try and learn during the journey. He did so, and succeeded in writing epistles not a few. D ;U GEORGE. portion of his flock, on a larger scale than lias yet been realized. Persevering energy seldom lails of accomplishing its object. " In due season ye shall reap, if ye faint not." There is an excellent Infant School at Pacaltsdorp, con- ducted by Miss Anderson. The daily school, which is not largely attended, is diligently conducted by Mr. Atkinson. It is to be lamented that the advantages of education are not more appreciated by the natives. That appreciation must, however, be of slow growth. Parents who do not know the value of instruction themselves, except of a very limited kind, cannot be expected to seek it very earnestly for their children. Some generations must pass before it is duly estimated and earnestly cultivated. George is a rising town, with a jiopulation of about 1500, three miles from Pacaltsdorp. It is too liberally suj^plied with "canteens," — houses licensed for the sale of ardent spirits. Two or three might suffice, but the revenue obtains a sinister benefit by licensing nine ; and the morals of the people are trebly depreciated. I attended an Annual Meeting of the Branch Bible Society in George. It was held in the large Dutch Church. The addresses were partly in Dutch and partly in English. The assembly was large — the collection moderate : a criterion rather of the careful habits, than the wealth of the people. The smallest coin in Her Majesty's realm occu- pied a prominent place in the contributions, — a too literal imitation of the offerings of one who gave her two mites, "which make one farthing," but who, in so doing, gene- rously and nobly " east in all that she had, even her whole living." Besides the Dutch Church, there is here a small Episco- palian community, under the ministry of Rev. J. Welby ; a coloured congregation, to which the Society's laborious Missionary, Mr. INIelville, preaches ; and a limited, though increasing English congregation of Nonconformists, who have lately invited the Piev. Wm. Elliott to become their pastor, whose long experience in the colony, and whose CRADOCK MOUNTAINS. 35 emineBt attainments as a scholar, qualify him to hold a most respectable position as a Christian minister, and promise great and solid advantages to any congregation that may be favoured with his services, and capable of appreciating their value. At a little distance from George is the Gradock range of mountains, over which travellers formerly crossed by the difficult and dangerous " Cradock Pass ;" from the formida- ble difficulties of which passengers are now relieved by the construction of the " Montagu Pass," a work that reflects great honour on the government, the engineer, and the surveyor. An admirable sketch of the old Pass has been drawn by Colonel Mitchell, having perhaps a little touch of the romantic withal. " Road-boards" and road improvements add very much to the ease, comfort, and safety of travel- ing, but they woefully take off the charms of the pictur- esque, the adventurous, and the marvellous. The Pass or Gate Kamphoor, on the way to Dyssels- dorp, constitutes one of the boldest, grandest, wildest scenes in nature. It reminded me of the Trossacks, near the Lake Katrine. Everywhere are exhibited the effects of the most fearful convulsions and disturbances of our earth's crust in some former period of its geological his- tory, and such as almost constrain the traveller to pause and ask himself, amidst his astonishment, whether he be still really an inhabitant of this planet, or has not been con- veyed away by some invisible force to a distant planet. However, having pleasantly survived the astonishment, and got through the Poort, I reached the Kamanassie Stream, and was then met by our Missionary, the Eev. W. Anderson, son of our venerable friend at Pacaltsdorp. Mr. Anderson had very considerately come forward from Dysselsdorp to meet me with a horse-car — an agi^eeable change from a tedious ox-wagon — and by which means I was able to reach his station in time to rest, and after- wards attend a public evening service. In fact, we pro- 36 KAMANASSIE. ceeded so rapidly, under the bold hand of a skilful native driver, and over roads so little troubled with any macadara- i/iug process, that it seemed, ever and anon, as though eveiy limb and bone of this mortal frame would part company, imless held together by remarkably tenacious ligaments, and, " a leathern girdle round the loins." Many of Mr. Anderson's friends came out on horseback to meet the visitor, for several miles on the road. The Jehu of our car kept them on full gallop on his return. There are not more than about eighty inhabitants in the village itself. !Many hundreds live in the surrounding country among the farmers, and identify themselves with this Mission Station, so that on Sundays a congregation is usually collected of from 300 to 500 persons. The direct influence of the Missionary extends over about 1500 persons. The site of the village is a gentle eleva- tion of about 100 feet above the level of the Olifant (Ele- phant) River. It commands a fine view over a very exten- sive plain, which is bounded on the horizon by a range of lofty hills, including some highly picturesque scenery, rendered all the more striking by a long range of red-sand- stone hills, that have suffered by convulsions and sub- sidencies, leaving a jagged, broken, abiiipt appearance over the whole mass. I was much gratified here by the spirit and manner of the people at public service. Nothing could be more decorous. All seemed attentive and in earnest, anxious to understand and to profit. Simplicity, sobriety, and tnithfulness appeared to characterise them. All were comfoi'tably attired, none gaudily. The singing was good, the voices melodious : the women's exceedingly clear, often musical ; and the men's a good accompaniment in bass. They made collections on the Sunday which I spent thei'e, towards a new chapel at the village of Ouds- hom. The contributions were of course quite voluntary. And they did the thing generously. They seemed so pleased with the effort in the moi-ning, that they begged it might MEETING ON THE CONVICT QUESTION. 37 be renewed in the afternoon ; and they came prepared the second time, and contributed altogether about ten pounds. Tliey promise to raise about illOO per annum, as an Auxi- liary, towards the Missionary Society. They acknowledge they can do it if they try, and that they ought to make the effort. There is much in having a willing mind. On the Monday morning a public meeting was held in relation to the Convict question, which the people suffi- ciently understood. They wished to express their desire that the convicts of England should not be sent to the Cape. They agreed to a memorial to that effect to the Government; though few could write, nearly 500 signed with the faithful sign of the cross. On leaving the village, many came to say farewell, — wishing me a " safe journey," expressing the hope "that God would take me back safely ;" " compliments to all their friends," and "a thousand compliments to my wife and family." Amidst all this, one could not help the reflection, how effectually Christianity softens, refines, and elevates ! What a blessing is it in social life, transforming the selfish into generous, the harsh into kind, the proud into humble, and the revengeful into pacific and forgiving ! Domestic life is sanctified, and its charms augmented ; manners become bland and courteous ; the very countenance bright- ens with intelligence ; order prevails over lawlessness, and industry succeeds to idleness and vice. The lands smile, deserts blossom as the rose, and the wildeniess rejoices with joy and singing. "The heavens hear the earth, the earth hears the corn and wine and oil, and they hear Jezreel." And then, that new place of worship at Oudshorn shows how much may be effected by the zeal and co-operation of a willing people, although their resources be exceedingly limited. It was found to be desirable to have a chapel in that locality especially, to suit the convenience of many of the people resident there. Mr. Anderson and his friends resolved on attempting it. A slip of land was purchased. 38 MINERAL SPRINGS AT DYSSELSDORP. Part of it was rc-sold, so as to leave just enough for the pur- jiose required. The Missionary with his own hands led the way. Example is more impressive and effective than precept and exhortation. Clay was found on the spot, and 73,000 hricks were made. Mr. Anderson devoted three days a week for six weeks to the task, and the people gave their lahour. The chapel will be worth £500, inclu- sive of the people's unpaid, but voluntaiy labour, and it will accommodate 350 hearers. I recommend its being called " Anderson Chapel." The ground here is impregnated with saltpetre. The roads are often covered with it, in fine white crystals, so that at a little distance one might fancy there had been a fall of snow. At the village I went into a native house belong- ing to one of. Mr. Anderson's congregation. The people had most kindly j^repared some provisions. The family library consisted simply of the Bible and a hymn book. There is a sad deficiency through the colony of material for mental improvement in the Dutch language. The people who can read have little besides what I have just named, and the mind remains in too quiescent, if not stagnant a condition. There are some valuable mineral springs at Dysselsdorp, that may some day, in the future prospects of the colony, render the village as important as Cheltenham or Bath in the mother country. These springs are partly sulphurous and partly chalybeate. They have been of considerable ser\-ice in many cases of contracted joints, arising from rheumatic fever, by no means unknown in this part of the country. It is a merciful arrangement of Providence that an antidote exists where the disease prevails. The same economy prevails, perhaps, evei'yTV'here as to all diseases ; and the principle is fomid in the moral as well as the phy- sical government of God. There is a remarkable piece of ground in the immediate vicinity of the springs, about half an acre in extent, and two feet in depth. It was for- THE CANGO CAVEBNS. 39 merly a swamp covered with reeds. These have succes- sively perished and decomposed ; the soil is now saturated and blackened with the gases which proceed from these mineral springs. At a public meeting of the people which I attended, chiefly in reference to the temporal affairs of the Station, I was struck with some very shrewd remarks made by the natives on the question of labour. They said they had been found fault with, as a body of labourers, that they were deficient in industry, and that Government had instituted an inquiry into the affair, so far as they were concerned. They thought it might be now equally pro- per to inquire into the conduct of masters towards the labourers, for possibly there might be some matters of just complaint against the employers, and that both sides should be heard. Wages, they said, were very low. Far- mers sometimes broke their engagements, and the people found it difficult to obtain redress. They mentioned several cases of hardship. They urged too, that, after all the charges brought against them, it was some proof of their industry, that all the agricultural work in the colony was performed by them, the labourers of the coloured class, inasmuch as the farmers themselves never put their hands even to a spade. Before quitting this part of the colony, I was glad to embrace the opportunity of paying a visit to the famous Cango Caverns, in the district of George, of which accounts have been published by Thompson and other travellers. They are said, by those who have seen the Caves of Elora and Elephanta, to be far superior to them, both in extent and grandeur. They are wholly natural, and are among the stupendous wonders of creation. The road along which we had to proceed forms the " Poort," or " Pass" of the river Grobbelaar ; it is a gorge, or defile, between two ranges of lofty and precipitous moun- tains. The river winds most coquettishly along the bottom ; now gentle, placid, and inviting, then abruptly 40 THE CANGO CAVERNS. clashing aside, frowning, threatening, and conceahng its course amidst tlie dense umbrage of the jungle. In rainy seasons, when the toiTcnts are immensely swollen, the stream becomes dangerous and impassable. At the time of my visit it was most obligingly shallow, seldom exceed- ing two feet in depth. With due caution we crossed it, without difficulty or accident. But from its extremely serpentine course, we had to cross it thirty times. The scenery is magnificent. The convulsions have been fear- ful. Many of the rocks are thrown up perpendicularly. Many are broken into wild and awful forms. They are for the most part covered with vegetation. Along the course we took, the principal trees are mimosas, with their long and sharp thorns ; where an equestrian, with a closely- buttoned leather jacket, has far less danger of inteiTup- tion and laceration than one clad in the flowing costume of an oriental. These mimosas are interspersed with thousands of beautiful crimson geraniums, large and splendid plants of palma Christi, and a kind of strong- scented lilac. After proceeding about five miles through the George, we came to an open space, and presently reached the residence of Mr. Botha, a farmer who has lately purchased the property, including the Caverns. It was advanced in the afternoon when we arrived, and the farmer expressed a little reluctance at our going in so late ; but as my time was precious, we pressed it, and having taken a cup of tea, which the hostess soon provided, we mounted our horses, and at a mile's distance came to the entrance of the Caverns, on the side of a lofty limestone mountain. The entrance is vast and imj^osing, exceed- ingly lofty and spacious, — a porch befitting these subterra- nean and " crystal" palaces. A fire was kindled, and we were provided with long bamboo canes, spiked, not with daggers, but with candles. On entering the caverns, we descended into a dark and gloomy passage, implicitly following our guides, whose lighted candles, however, were all we could distinguish. We were now soon arrested, THE CANGO CAVERNS. 41 by reaching the brink of a yawning precipice, and "dark- ness visible" beyond it. Down we descended, by means of a ladder placed there for the purpose, and which is drawn up again every time it has been used. With due precau- tion, holding the steps of the ladder with one hand, and our friendly candle with the other, we safely reached the lower regions, say thirty feet from the top of the descent ; and we then commenced our subterranean pilgrimage, and proceeded to inspect one spacious apartment after another, all the while filled with awe, wonder, and admiration. Many of the rooms are very lofty — thirty, forty, fifty, sixty feet high. Their extent cannot be seen at one view, nor indeed of any of them, unless, perhaps, an immense num- ber of torches were placed in the room ; even then, I suspect, only the lights would be seen in the distance, and not the objects themselves. Many rooms are filled with millions of stalactites, descending in all forms from the ceiling, and meeting their kindred stalagma on the ground. Many of them retain only the grandeur of their forms : they are vast, magnificent, and exceedingly diversified. Others retain beauty, as well as colossal dimensions, con- sisting of fluted columns, towering to amazing heights, and resembling, at some distance, immense cathedral -organs. In other instances, they stand like primeval trees, such as I have seen in the quarries of Portland. Some of the specimens were of a remarkably white and glittering character, and some perfectly transparent. Here were niches, columns, cornices, fretted-work roofs in all variety of form and of beauty, far beyond verbal description. The detail would be insufferably tedious, but the impression of it as a whole is most effective. You feel at once trans- ported into a region where you stand amidst the silent work of untold ages, perhaps thousands of ages. You have nothing in nature above ground to compare with it, and nothing of the work of man that can compete with it. The process of crystallization is still going forward, but not in all places. The crystal palace advances, though 12 AVONTUUR. without the magic hand of Paxtoii. The stalactite is still gradually lorniing in innumerahle places ; in others it has ceased, and the slow progress of decay and disintegration is going forward. It seems an established law, that it must live and increase; or else, in becoming quiescent and stationary, it decays. The exterior becomes first moist and clammy, then the ciystals are destroyed ; the adhesion ceases, and they crumble to poAvder. One room, called the "Sand-room," is strewn with fine sand — I presume, the decayed ciystals of decomposed stalactites. Part of this is beautifully white, and part beautifully red ; the colour of the latter occasioned, no doubt, by the presence of iron, which may be found in the vicinity of the limestone rock, through which the water had oozed, carrying an oxide in solution with the lime. We left the caverns at five o'clock, and returned to the farmer's residence, where we again found a cup of tea refreshing; and in about an hoiu' and a half we had supper with the family, and shortly after retii'ed to rest ; the ultra sober hour of seven o'clock in the evening being the usual time when the family separate for the night's repose. The good woman of the house told me she had had twenty-two children, eight of whom were still living. Her mother had had twenty-three. The population of the colony is rather sparse, but at this rate of increase, will not very long remain so. We returned to Dysselsdorp next day, and I then started for our next Missionary Station at Avontuur, in the Long Kloof. Having sent my wagon forward from Dysselsdorp, by spans of oxen kindly lent by the people there, Mr. Ander- son conveyed me in a horse-car to Avontuur (Adventure), still in the district of George. The distance is about seventy-five miles. We travelled along the Kamanassie Hoogte, or "heights." The descent to the stream of that name is steep and difficult, and the opposite ascent of the same character. The Mission Station of Avontuur, under the care of NEW CHAPEL AT AVONTUUR. 43 Eev. W. Hood, has many encouraging features. It com- menced " as a day of small things." Mr. Hood's first con- gregation amounted to six persons. That was on a week- day evening. On the Sunday there was a larger attend- ance. A Dutch farmer in the neighbourhood offered Mr. Hood the use of a dwelling-house, with land for gTazing cattle and raising corn sufficient for the use of his family, if he would settle there as the Missionary. He did so, and there are now both good congregations and useful schools. The Missionary Society has no land here of its own, nor do the people hold any by grant from the Government. The farmer already referred to offered portions of land, on easy terms, to the people. Many native families accepted the offer, and are now residents, and in circumstances of comparative comfort. None of tliem were here when Mr. Hood arrived. They have felt induced to settle in the locality by the advantages afforded them, by the easy terms on which they occupy the land, and by the religious privileges placed within their reach. The plan deserves to be imitated by others. It is politic, as well as benevolent. It has brought labour within reach of the farmer, when he needs it, and it has suited the wants of the people. Part of the dwelling-house has hitherto sensed as a chapel ; but a more commodious and sub- stantial place is now in course of erection. The people build it at their own cost. Its dimensions are fifty-five feet by twenty-five, and it is constructed of stone to the lintels of the doors, and the rest of brick, made of the clay found on the spot. With a front gallery for children, it will accommodate about four hundred. The people come in for worship on the Sunday from several miles' distance. About seven hundred altogether thus fall under the in- fluence of the Missionary, who, possessing also some knowledge of medicine, becomes their physician amidst their bodily ailments, as well as their si)iritual pastor, hav- ing the " cure of souls." It is desirable that all Missionaries for Africa should be couiiietent to exercise the medical art. 14 GENOTE, THE KAFFIR. The Sunday which T spent at this station I shall long ivniomhor. The attendance was good ; the interest and attention of the people very gratifying. Besides morn- ing and evening senices, we held a Missionary meeting in the afternoon, and gave the people details of the pro- gress of the gospel in vai'ious parts of the world, to which they listened with cordiality and benevolence. Tliankful for the advantages which they themselves en- joyed, they were eai'nestly desirous that the whole family of man might enjoy them too. And this is just what might be expected. The benevolence of Christianity is wonderfully efficacious in counteracting the natural selfish- ness of the human heart, and expanding its purest and best affections. There resides at Avontuur a native, a Kaffir of the Gaika tribe, of the name of Genote, whose history illus- trates the value of ^Missions, and the power of Divine truth. Several years ago he went with some companions, out of sheer curiosity, to see the Missionary, Williams, then of Kaffirland. They had heard of him, but knew not what was meant by the designation. Much to their sur- prise, they found him a human being, but of a different colour, dress, and language to their own. Zwart Booy, as Genote was usually called, remembered nuich that was said, and could not divest himself of the exhortation " to flee, for there was danger." The IMissionary had no doubt lieen urging the same ti"uth that John the Baptist did in the wilderness of Judffia ; but the Kaffir knew of no dan- ger except that of being Avounded or killed in war. He was on the spot when Williams the Missionaiy sickened and died, and he w'as emjiloyed to cany a letter on the subject to Mr. Hart, of Somerset. Just then there was a prospect of war, and he made up his mind to leave Kaffir- land and enter the colony. He hired himself to a farmer, and was much prized for his fidelity and honesty. He afterwards settled nearer to Avontuur, from which the faiTuer's residence was separated only by a steep and GENOTE, THE KAFFIR. 45 rugged mountain. He and the Missionary met occasion- ally. After having been observed at the chapel on a Sunday, a friend brought him in the course of a day or two to Mr. Hood, and said, " Have the kindness to speak to this old man ; he has been restless and sleepless these two nights." On being asked to sit dov^m, and open his mind, he confessed that he felt an impression of danger — danger he could not understand nor describe, and he Avas distressed; he felt as though he had committed some grave offence, and was about to be punished. "VMien asked what he thought might be the cause of this uneasiness, " Oh!" said he, "my sins, my sins ! The immensity of my sin makes my heart as hea%^ as a mountain of lead ! I I have no knowledge, no wisdom. I know not what to do. Tell me, therefore, what to do." The Missionary spoke of God, and found he had a tolerably clear perception of Him as Creator and Preserver; "but," said the man, "I want something more. I cannot be satisfied — I cannot rest. Tell me what it is." The heart thus prepared for the truth, the Missionary unfolded to him the words of life and the wonders of redeeming mercy. The Kaffir told him what a change he had felt in his heart. " Some time since," said he, " a child of mine died ; I became frantic, and should have destroyed myself, had I not been re- strained by force. A month ago, another of my children sickened, and I said in my heart, ' The great God who gave him to me, has a right to take him from me ; let him do his pleasure.' I loved my child ; it was a hard struggle, but I gave him back to God. When the child was dying, my friends came in to Aveep and to lament with me. I put them out of the room, for I thought I should lament too, and then wish to hold him back ; and how could I, after I had resigned him to God ? My child died, and I was still and silent. Now, who could have made me feel so," asked the Kaffir, " but the great God ? What can I do to serve him?" He listened with breathless anxiety while the Missionary explained to him the grace of the Saviour. 46 GENOTE, THE K.\IFIR. He partly comprehended the matter ; light was breaking in. " Tell me again," said he, "for I am old and stupid." His eyes were fixed ; tears streamed dowTi his sable cheeks ; and his tall and noble figure trembled with men- tal agitation ; and as soon as he could find utterance for Avords, he expressed his astonishment at the mercy and condescension of God. These interviews were repeated, and at length he expressed the wish to come and live on the spot. He endeavoured to arrange this with some of the people ; but as he had some cattle, there was difficulty in the way", the land which they occupied being already as full as the pasturage w^ould permit. Naming this to Mr. Hood, he said, " I am a Kaffir, and I am fond of my cattle ; hut I 7/ get rid of the last of them, if I cannot othenvise come to reside here to hear the word."* As the Missionary was needing a shepherd, he proposed to him to come and tend the herd, and that he might gi'aze his cattle with them ; and he should have a monthly papiient for his services. Genote was silent a few minutes, and then said, " That is not your plan ; it is," srid he, pointing upwards, "it is He who has put it into your heart." He aceoi'dingly arranged to come and to bring his wife and little stock of moveable property. The farmer with whom he lived was unwilling to part Avith him. " ^Miat j^ossesses you ?" said the faiTner; "you are not far from the church — you can go there as often as you like. I never hinder you." " Tiiie," said the man, " but the mountain on the road is steep, and I am old and weak. Besides, you count all the days I am absent, and. deduct them from my wages." " But why should you go so often? I do not," replied the fanner. "Ay," said the Kaffir, "but you have a great Bible lying in the window, which I hope you read eveiy day. I cannot read, so that all I obtain must come in at the ear, and I must live near the man that can tell me * "The kingdom of heaven is like a man who, when he hath found one pearl of great price, goeth and selleth all that he hath, that he may obtain possession of it." KRUIS FONTEIN AND HANKEY. 4.7 every day." "But why not, then, do as we do?" said the farmer. " We invite the minister to one of our places, and then we meet together to hear." "I m afraid," said the poor man, " little good comes of that ; hesides, we have no places to invite our minister to, and you know you Avould not give him your place ; and so, I mean to go !" And go he did ; and came to Avontuur, and resides there still ; conducts himself in a ti'uly exemplary man- ner, and lives in the good-will and confidence of all around him. He has been baptized, is a member of the church, is earnest in prayer, and diligently exhorts others to seek the peace which he has obtained through faith on the Son of God. Genote often prays in public ; he did so the Sunday I was there. He began in Dutch, but as his heart warmed, he gradually and naturally fell into the Kaffir, with which he was more familiar, and the people felt that there was the earnestness of devout scpplication and thanksgiving, even though they (familiar only with Dutch) could but im- perfectly comprehend all the. words he employed. The wife of Genote, now generally called Samuel, the name he chose on his baptism, is a sister of Makomo, of whom so much has occurred in the late conflicts between the Colony and the Kaffirs. Her long absence from her own country is making her forgetful of her native lan- guage, and yet, most inconveniently, she has great diffi- culty in acquiring the Dutch, and still more in getting the English, which is but occasionally used there. A veiy fatal confusion of languages in her case, certainly ! I next proceeded to '' KruisFontein" — Cross Fountatn — and Hankey. The former is a Missionary out-station to the latter. The property was pifrchased by the late Wil- liams, Missionaiyin Kaffirland, to form a native village for Hottentots, the emancipated classes and others, who might be willing to pay a small rental sufficient to cover the in- terest of the purchase, and who might then receive instruc- tion and religious sei-vices. The Missionary Society now 48 KRIUS FOXTEIN AND HAXKET. holds the property, and the Station itself enjoys consider- able pi'osperity. The people who attended service while I was there, had an air of comfort, intelligence, and inde- pendence about them, that pleased me much. There is a plain building that serves for a chapel, and accommodates about '2b0 people. Another building is used for an infant school, in which about thirty-five children attend. Mr. Clarke, formerly fellow-labourer with Mr. Kolbe, among tlie Bushmen, resides here as School-master and Assistant- Missionaiy. He has spent many years in Africa. Eev. T. D. Philip acts as pastor, and comes over from Hankey to visit the people and administer the ordinances of reli- gion once a month. This Station further illustrates, to my mind, the im- portance of encom-aging the natives to become landholders in some form, even on a small scale. They feel them- selves more independent, and it awakens their industiy to maintain their position ; and with an interest in the soil, they Avill be neither vagi'ants nor rebels. CHAPTER III. A NATIVE MINISTRY EUROPEAN AID REQUISITE HANKEY INSTITUTION, INUNDATION MACHPELAH AFFECTING ANECDOTE TUNNEL CHART FERTILITY^ A THOUSANDFOLD NATIVE CAPACITIES EDU- CATION MAPS WANTED PUBLIC MEETING NEW CHAPEL, CHURCH- MEMBERS AND RULES OF CHURCH-FELLOWSHIP PORT ELIZABETH FINGOES — BETHELSDORP SALT PAN THOMAS PRINGLE NATIVE RACES FEARS AND HOPES CONTRIBUTIONS — UITENHAGE TEA PARTY THEOPOLIS SUFFERINGS FROM WAR, 1847 GRAHAM's TOWN, CHAPELS HOTTENTOT CORP OF CAPE MOUNTED RIFLES CANTEENS. The great desideratum in all Christian Missions, next to the conversion of men to the Christian faith itself, is the preparation of a Native Ministry. By that means alone can the great command of the Saviom' be literally obeyed, " to preach the gospel to every creature." Foreign Mis- sionaries can never be sustained by the churches from whence they are sent forth, in adequate numbers to ac- complish the purpose. They might, indeed, make the tour of heathen countries, and just "announce" in all the prin- cipal towns, and perhaps the villages too, of heathendom, " the glad tidings of great joy." But this would be a mea- siire most cursory, most superficial, and most unsatisfac- toiy. The history of Providence does not justify the hope that any great good should accrue from such a scheme ; it is not in the nature of the case that any could reasonably be anticipated. There needs the reiterated exposition of Divine truth — " the line upon line, and precept upon E 50 A NATIVE MINISTRY. precept." There needs the stated and continuous employ- ment of wisely-adapted means, in the same localities ; and, usually, it is even then only after a considerable period has elapsed that attention is aroused, inquiry awakened, prejudices neutralized, and the great change accomplished in which old things pass away and all things become new. To provide this permanent agency for the ministry of the gospel throughout the world, is the object of the most anxious solicitude on the part of all the intelligent friends and supporters of Christian Missions. They seek to gather, in the first instance, converts into the fold of Chi'ist, and then from those converts to select and train men who shall be competent "to teach others also." The history of Christian Missions for the past fifty years demonstrates the wisdom and necessity of the measure ; its wisdom, because where tried it is found effectual ; its necessity, because the existing pecuniary contributions of foreign churches do not accomplish very much beyond that of sustaining their present European agency, and that is not advancing to any great extent, or in any rapid man- ner, on the remaining regions of heathenism. The employment of native agency is coeval with the histoiy of Christianity. The apostles gave instruction as to the ordination of men to be the ministers in the several states and towns which they had visited, and where they had planted Christianity. Corinth had its o\\ti "teachers,' "helps, and workers of miracles:" from among the Thessa- lonians "sounded out the word of the Lord through Mace donia and Achaia ;" and the seven churches of Asia had respectively their own presiding ministers. Modem Missionary Societies have all proceeded on the same principle, to some extent. They have successfully employed native teachers and evangelists in a subordinate capacity ; and in a few instances they have been ordained as pastors of native Christian communities. And this is the consummation to be kept in view. Eveiy measure up to that point must be regarded as only subsidiary and EUROPEAN AID NECESSARY. 51 preparatory. The most efficient and successful Missionary, therefore, is not the man who may have his three hundred, five hundred, or a thousand converts around him as a flourishing Christian community, but the man who, from amidst his converts can find and train " men for the work of the ministry and the edifying of the body of Christ." These native churches and pastors may still require the aid and counsel of the more experienced and better- instructed European Missionary ; and whatever arrange- ments are made for providing native churches with native ministers, the foreign aid found requisite for their stability and progress must for the time be furnished. That, how ever, merely leaves the question of their entire inde- pendence to be a question of time. The principle itself is fairly involved. There may be an excess of cautious soli- citude in preparing native churches for this measure. We must stand prepared for some defects, irregularities, and failures in the system ; but to postpone the adoption of it till there is almost a demonstration that it will work without any danger, is to expect a result without the pre- vious process : it is equivalent to expecting men to be proficient in an art without ever exercising it — a Eaphael, without having touched a pencil. Imj)ressed wdth views of this nature, the London Mis- sionary Society has for a long time directed its attention to Theological Seminaries, and has established them in British India, China, the South Sea Islands, and Africa. The Institution at Hankey has been arranged for the same purpose, and it is confidently hoped it may render essen- tial service. Its locality is favourable. Its advantages are many, and the Missionaries stationed there are eminently qualified for the office of instructors. As yet, not many natives have availed themselves of these advantages. A few have, and also the sons of Missionaries in the colony — a class from which the Society has engaged the services of some valuable and efficient men. The present un- settled state of the colony, owing to the new Kaffir War, is 52 IIANKEY. — INUNDATION. altogether unfavourable to these objects. The attention is diverted to other things. Bad passions are awakened ; families are scattered ; young men of promise are drawn off for a militia — evil communications corrupt their man- ners ; and a scene that might have bloomed like Eden, is smitten, withered, and ruined. Hankey is about eighteen miles from Kruis Fontein, and it is then sixty-five miles further to Port Elizabeth. The road is difficult, but the scenery, which is pleasing, begins to improve soon after leaving Ivruis Fontein ; and for some miles before reaching the lands of the Institu- tion at Hankey, there is much to gratify. On the right, ^t the distance of twenty or twenty-five miles, may be seen the white sandy beach near St. Francis Bay, and on the left the Kouga Hills, a spur of a great line of mountains running east and west of this part of South Africa. The " Cock's Comb," seen on the road to Hankey, is about six or seven thousand feet high, and is one of the highest points in the range. The lands of the Institution, as we advance towards the village, are rich in botany. The low lands are allmial, and the soil is rich, and is covered with various kinds of bushes, with the graceful mimosas, splen- did proteas and euphorbias, geraniums, aloes, Cape olives, &c. The spot where the desolating inundation of October, 1847, occmi-ed, is marked by its deposit of white sand, over which, however, vegetation is beginning to appear. On the higher ground, to wdiich the waters did not ascend, may be seen the new village rising, and the Mission pre- mises, wdiich stood there previously, constituting the most prominent object. There is a cheerfulness about the whole scene. The neatly-built and whitewashed cottages exliibit indications of advancing ciAdlization, comfort, and prosperity. The chapel stands on a summit opposite to the eminence on which the Mission-house is built, and a small stream, — " Klein River," — with its rustic bridge, runs between the two elevations. The view from the Mission MACHPELAU. 53 premises is extensive, bold, rich, and varied. The gardens of the people cannot be made contiguous to their cottages, which are built on high ground, but they are laid out in a suitable spot, at a moderate distance ; and even in the dry season they look well. There is a knoll at a short dis- tance from the Mission premises, and which is well wooded. It has some splendid specimens of the yellow- wood tree — a sj)ecies of yew. It is appropriated as a burial-place for the deceased members of the Institution. The ashes of Mrs. Philip, and her son, the Eev. William Philip, and her grandchild, son of John Fairbairn, Esq., repose calmly there. It is the " Machpelah " of Dr. Philips' family, and shall give forth its tenants, on the morning of the resurrection, arrayed in beauty and im- mortality. Limestone is found on the lands of the Institution. There is a kiln belonging to a native, and I found him busily pursuing his occupation — and no mean sight, — a Hottentot preparing lime for the lands of the farmers. His wagon stood by, on which he had brought the stone from the quarry: he and another man were breaking it into small lumps, feeding the kiln, and heaping on the wood. The farmers purchase the lime as manure, and the man maintains his family in comfort. I accompanied the Rev. T. D. Philip to see the " tunnel," for the repairs of which, after the inundation, an appeal was made to friends in England in April, 1848. That inundation was occasioned by the fall of heavy torrents of rain, about a week previously, in the neighbourhood of the sources of the " Gamtoos," and by which it became sud- denly and fearfully enlarged. At Hankey, it rose from thirty to forty feet above its ordinary level. It proved fatal to thirteen of the people,* and destroyed much pro- * An affecting account of these circumstances was published in the "Missionary Chronicle" of April, 1848. A Christian Hottentot who escaped, relates that he and fifteen others (six women and ten men), perceiving their danger, rushed to a spot of rising ground, and 54 AFFECTING ANECDOTK. perty. Great injury was done to the tunnel. A vast mass of the superincumbent rock fell in, having been under- mined by the swollen river. The face of the rock was left bare some sixty or eighty feet. About 5000 cubic yards of matter fell in. The people, however, did not despond. Aided by prompt and libex'al contributions, they began the necessary repairs, and within a year and a day of the calamity they were completed, and the tunnel re -opened. The accompanying Chart of Hankey will convey an there " stood speechless, looking at one another ; the -water rose above their waists. Lucas," said he, "never spoke another word, but I never allowed my heart to fail me. I bovmd up a mat for my wife, and told her to keep it across her chest, and she would be able to keep her head above water till help came. I then took up my mother, and held her in my arms till I could hold her no longer. She was the first carried away. Then Lucas diifted from us, and sunk at once. My wife had drifted away whUe I was holding my mother up, and she got the mat under one arm instead of across her chest, so that she was turned over and over -with it, tUl she was carried out of my sight among the thorn-trees. The boy, Carl Baan, went to the three Smits, fi-om one to another, now holding liis mother up as he saw her suikiiig, then his little sister, till they all sunk. I saw a roof floating towards me, and resolved to try to reach it ; I did — Sarah and Carl Baan were following not far off. I drew a lath out of the roof, Carl grasped it, and I drew him up on the roof. Sarah called out ' Help me, dear uncle !' She was just suiking a second time, when I placed the lath so that she seized it with her finger and thumb, and I pulled her also on the roof. " At this time, Lydia, old Lucas's ■v\-ife, was floating on a mat, about thirty yards from me. She now commenced singing the hymn, ' Jezus neemt de zondaars aan.' (' Jesus receiveth sinners.') And when she had sung it through, exclaiming, 'O great God!' she laid her head do^-n upon the mat, as upon a piJlow, and simk. "The time passed by very heavily, but in the evening I heard, in answer to one of oui- cries, ' Yes, help is now on the way to you.' I thought, as I sat upon the roof, of Noah in the Ark, but felt it was not because I was a righteous man like Noah, that God had saved me. I wondered why I had been saved, and others, better than my- self, allowed to perish. I wept with excitement at my deUverance." TUNNEL CHART. 55 accurate idea of the extent of the inundation, and the position of Hankey in re- lation to the Klein and Gam- toos rivers. The tunnel is a large exca- vation through a rock of con- glomerate, of an exceedingly hard and solid texture. It is about two hun- dred and sixty yards in length, and from three to six feet in width. The height is about five or six feet nearly all through, though in ?i few places it does not ex- ceed four. The opening into the tunnel on The dark portion of the Chart indicates the space on which tlie flood extended, and the figures chiefly denote the various buildings which were either surrounded or ovcrtlu-own by the accumulated waters. Fig. 1 marks the position of the Mission-house. 2. The Chapek 3, 4, 5, 6. Houses of the peopk\ 8. The tunnek 9. Fingoe and Hottentot huts. 10. The spot where the sixteen persons already mentioned stood for several hours, and of whom three only were finally saved. 66 FERTILITY, A THOUSANDFOLD. tlie side of the river is within a few feet of the main current. The Gamtoos is a river of considerable mag- nitude, and winds between the hills in the vicinity of tlie Institvition. It has a sufficient fall to admit of the in'igation of the lands at Hankey to a large ex- tent, simply by means of this tunnel, and then still further by carrying the water, by a suspended aqueduct, over a lower jjart in the bend of the river itself. There is a fall of above forty feet from the place where the tunnel leads the water out, to the spot where it again falls into the stream. Some strong stone and brick breastworks are being made at the mouth of the tunnel, to prevent its being washed away in case of the recurrence of a flood ; and for a considerable depth the tunnel itself is now arched over. by strong timbers that do not decay in water. The upper portion of the rock consists of an immense layer of hard and fine-grained sandstone, out of which blocks are taken and rolled do's\Ti the hill to form the breastwork at its base, around the sides of the entrance to the tunnel. From the comparative level of the river and the tunnel, there would seem to be little difficulty in leading out, as Mr. W. Philip, who designed the work, remarked, the whole of the river, so as to irrigate a very large piece of the country. The bed of the river is now comparatively small, but the appearance of the country indicates that there must once have been a lai-ge river spreading over the Avhole valley, and reaching from these hills on the one side to those on the other. This intermediate valley consists of an ex- tremely rich alluvial deposit. The earth brings forth abundantly — it gives seed to the sower and bread to the eater. The hand of the industrious is made rich. I have been infonned that some portions of the land in this neighbourhood have yielded not merely thirtyfold, sixty- fold, or a hundredfold, but so high as a thousandfold. Of course, manure is neither used nor required. I found the thermometer here in June, in the shade, 32 deg. in the morning, 66 deg. at eleven o'clock, and 92 deg. at one o'clock. NATIVE CAPACITIES. 57 With regard to education, I find the remark correct, that these people learn readily while young. Their capa- cities are developed early, and they make fair progress according to the ineans of instruction employed, and the pains which they can be induced to take. But they do not proceed very far. There is little ultimate development beyond the early stages. Mind then seems to become stagnant, and, unless a powerful stimulant from without is applied, no farther progress is made, or even attempted. It may be, that, in progress of time, as one generation gains something in advance of the preceding, and comes more under the influence of the Gospel and religious institu- tions, they may advance much more than they do at present. One thing is very clear, that, excepting as they now come under the influence of religion, there is but little of mental eff'ort or mental improvement. The fear of the Lord is litei'ally, in a very important sense, the beginning of wisdom : it teaches men the value of mind and of mental effort — it strengthens and elevates the powers of thinking — it brings the greatest subjects home to the mind and heart — and it secures that self-command and self-respect which are so essential to intellectual improvement. Would that the friends of knowledge and education in England would aid more abundantly in the prosecution of this great work! I often grieved when I looked at the bare walls of these schools ! How very limited is the provision of the means of improvement ! How few and trifling the ostensible inducements to eff'ort ! — a card with A B C, a few spelling- books, and some copies of the New Testament ! These are about all the apparatus in most of the schools. Some have a map, and some, perhaps, two ; as here at Hankey, the Map of Palestine and the Map of Europe, but that is all ! not a picture on science or natural history of any kind. The Missionary Society cannot be blamed for not providing these materials. Their funds are not ecpial to these objects ; but 1 feel sure that there are wealthy 58 NEW CHAPKL. friends in Great Britain who would help, if they knew the need that exists for their assistance. We held a jNIissionary IMeeting one evening during my visit. Ahout two hundred and fifty jiersons sat do\\'n to tea. It was well conducted, and all seemed happy in the enjoyment of the evening. We had several English pieces sung, and I may add, well sung. INIany of the natives here have excellent voices. There is much harmony, — a quick perception of the beaiity of tune, but not much practical idea of time. Mr. Philip, himself a good singer, and acquainted with the science of singing, is doing much to improve the congregational psalmody. Several of the men spoke at the meeting with much ease and good sense. I had, as usual, urged on them to contribute more towards supporting their own ministry and schools. They ad- mitted the force of all this, and expressed their desire to relieve the Society of pecuniaiy outlays so far as they could. But they pleaded, and with much truth, the losses which they had sustained by the calamitous inundation — the necessity of rebuilding their houses — their want of grazing-ground for the cattle, — and the large amount they have to pay to neighbouring fanners, on whose gi'ounds their cattle trespass, and by whom they are impounded. We referred to the design and desirableness of building a new chapel. It seemed to me scarcely worth while to expend much money in repairing or enlarging the present un- sightly chapel. It would be much better to make an effort to build a new one, and keep the old place for a school- room. Bricks could be made on the spot, and lime obtained on the Institution. Timber is within easy reach; and thus the expense of a new chapel would not be veiy formidable, — say £'300 for a place 75 ft. by 28ft. or to 30ft. In the com^se of a day or two, the overseers of the village met, and talked over with us the subject of the new chapel, addition to their grazing-groimds, the rental of an adjoining farm, the charge to be made for the right of graz- ing their oxen ; and the result seemed to be, that efforts CHUECH-FELLOWSHIP. 59 should be forthwith made to obtain a new chapel. The people will provide the bricks, about 150,000, and worth V2s. per 1000, amounting in value to £90 or £100. I pro- posed that the Society should allow them to apply to the object the year's Auxiliary amount of subscriptions, and make them a contribution by way of practical encourage- ment. There are ujiwards of one hundred membei'S in church-fellowship, and many are in the class of inquirers, affording gi^ound to hope that they are the subjects of genuine religion. The people are usually all fond of reli- gious ordinances. In fact, there is some danger of their placing religion itself in a mere attendance on the forms of worship, substituting ovitward decorum for spiritual devotion. Hence their anxiety to be received as members of the church, perhaps in too early a stage of their reli- gious thoughts and impressions. It has been remarked, that the difficulty of a faithful and judicious pastor of a Missionary Church, consists rather in restraining the peo- ple from joining the church at too early a stage of their religious profession, than in gathering large and im- posing numbers to the visible fold. The opposite plan of admitting all persons on reaching maturity, and who can repeat certain formularies, is adopted in the Dutch Reformed and Lutheran Churches in the colony. The inherent evils of this system are sufficiently obvious. Men are tempted to consider themselves " Christians" in virtue of this visible connexion with the church. In the absence even of those indications of the spiritual life which the Scriptures of the New Testament invariably exliibit as pre-requisites to church-fellowship — namely, " repentance towards God and faith in our Lord Jesus Christ" — men are apt to regard themselves, merely by a decent and orderly attendance on the ordinances of religion, as among the favoured and covenanted people of God. This state of things renders it the more essential that churches of a more scriptural character and discipline should be sus- tained and encouraged, as witnesses for spiritual Chris- 60 PORT K LI /A BETH. tianity, and that their rules for the a;ative races. 67 a Residence in South Africa," tlie following graphic descrip- tion of his visit : — " I attended the evening sen'ice of the Missionary in the rustic chapel. The demeanour of the audience was attentive and devout, and their singing of the Missionaiy hymns singularly pleasing and harmonious. I saw hefore me the remnant of an aboriginal race to w^hom this remote region, now occupied by white colonists, had at no distant period belonged. As I sat and listened to the soft and touching melody of the female voices, or gazed on the earnest, upturned swarthy countenances of the aged men, who had probably spent their early days in the wild freedom of nomadic life, and worn out their mid- dle life in the service of the colonists, it was pleasing to think, that here, and in a few other institutions such as this, the Christian humanity of Europe had done some- thing to alleviate European oppression, by opening Asy- lums where, at least, a few of the race were enabled to escape from personal thraldom, and to emerge from heathen darkness into the glorious light and liberty of the Gospel." Many of my impressions, while I was among them, were similar to those expressed in this quotation. But with all that I found satisftictoiy and encouraging, there was still wanting the earnestness that presses on to " perfection." The natives seem to me to rest satisfied with doing just something, but leaving off far too soon. The block is hewn from the quarry, but the statue is not finished. They would lay the foundation of a pyramid, but never reach the apex. This is, perhaps, the natural tendency of the Hottentot mind, but it has given a colour- ing to everything around them. Institutions, teachers, and Missionaries, are in danger of being infected by it Here, at Bethelsdorp, is a good chapel, but no flooring. The people have floored their school-room, but the chapel remains cold, damp, and cheerless. These little things are significant. They indicate; cliaracter. There is a radical evil, and it lies in the constitutional defect and timidity of the Hottentot. Physically, also, they are not a strong and vigor- 68 FEARS FOR THE NATIVE RACES. ous race. !Many of them labour under soine disease of the chest. They are extrenielv susceptible of colds and coughs; they complain of "pain in the side," and die of consumption It is impossible to conceal one's fears for the ultimate e.xistence of most of the coloured races in South Africa ; I mean those, in the first instance, within the colony, and those in the neighbourhood of places where the emigi-ant Boers have lately settled. The lands of the native tribes become gradually encroached on ; jealousies and animosi- ties, wars and retaliations, arise : the native tribes are driven back, lose their property, their lands, their courage ; they fall back on other tribes, where they encounter more or less resistance, become w-eaker and weaker, and the white man advances, and absorbs the whole ! The only means of averting the e^-il, — and surely it is an evil that might be averted, — seems to be, the elevation of the people by instruction, combined with such an equitable treatment of them as may convince them that we are their friends, and not their enemies, and thus, instead of being disposed to employ their newly acquired knowledge against us, in defending ther rights as against aggression, they may be induced to cultivate our friendship, seek our pro- tection, imitate our Institutions, and learn our religion. The juvenile native population now under our instruc- tion should be well and carefulhj trained, so as to render them a respectable and intelligent portion of the com- munity. And the natives should be encom-aged to become independent lando^\-ners, especially where they have char- acter and energ}' to profit by such advantages. Having expressed these sentiments, this may be the proper place to add, that my firm conviction is, if our relations with these colom-ed tribes were only conducted on the broad and honourable principles of Christianity, there Avould be little to apprehend as to any fatal collision between the w^iite and coloured races. There is not a line in revelation to justify the assumption that the coloured races are doomed to perish in presence of the white races, GREAT Britain's duty. 69 and to make room for them. It is utterly incompatible with the benevolent ordinations of Providence, so far as they are known, to supjjose that any such dire necessity exists. Those men pi'oceed from the same original stock of the human family as ourselves, and are made of " one blood." Ten thousand instances can be adduced of their capability of receiving instruction and civilization. There wants only the noble and generous determination to do them no wrong in our treatment of them and our dealings with them. Our superior knowledge should not un- worthily be employed in taking any unfair advantage of them, but righteously employed in devising the means of their welfare in conjunction with our own. This were a noble senace for Great Britain to attempt ! It may involve difficult problems ; but Great Britain has lofty minds that can solve difficult problems, and noble hearts that can aid in the solution of great questions, where a nation's honour, a nation's morality, and a nation's Christianity are all in- volved. With regard to this Institution of ours at Bethelsdoi-p, it is but candid to say, that for some time past affairs had not been in the most satisfactory state. All this could be accounted for : the disturbances created by the Kaffir War of 1846-47, had proved injurious, and the declining health and debility of the late Missionary had i:)artially disquali- fied him for the active efforts wanted. No additions had been lately made to the Church. The congregation had remained stationaiy. Happily, indeed, no cases of flagrant immorality had occurred, nor any cases requiring the exercise of church discipline ; but still, the general state of things indicated declension, lifelessness, and decay. I endeavoured to revive what I found faint and languid. That was the object of my address to the members of the Church, at the Lord's table, on the Sunday. I delivered also an address in English, on the Monday evening, in the school-room, where upwards of one hundred j)ersons, chiefly from the age of sixteen to twenty-five, attended, 70 FEARS AND HOPES. and who. I think, nnderstood English sufficiently to com- prehend my address. Next day a public meeting was held, and well attended. All the men belonging to the Institution were present. I distinctly stated the claims which the Society had on them for more liberal contribu- tions. I urged the fact that, after forty-five to fifty years' labour among them, and a vast expenditure of resources during that period, they had not, strictly speaking, con- ti'ibuted anything towards the diffusion of the Gospel among the heathen tribes ; for though their Auxiliaiy had sometimes raised as much as £100 per annum, a much larger sum than that had always been expended by the Society on Bethelsdorp : their contributions, therefore, had, in effect, come back among themselves. I adverted to their gi*eatly improved condition, as compared with former times, their present means of support, and the circumstances of comfort in which they were placed, by means of their oxen, wagons, salt-pan, and supply of aloes. I urged on them the necessity of improving the appear- ance of the place, the houses, gardens, farms, &c. ; these being the things that would strike the attention of the traveller, and official men in the colony, and which gave, in fact, a character to the inhabitants themselves. Several of the men spoke in reply, and with good effect. They acquitted themselves well. They expressed themselves with intelligence, force, and feeling. I had put the ques- tion to them as preliminary to all our proceedings, whe- ther, in their judgment, Bethelsdorp ought any longer to be retained as an Institution, or whether the time had not come, when the lands might in some way be given back to the Government. I wished them to state their own thoughts and wishes on this subject. To this point, therefore, they directed their responses with great energy, strongly deprecating the idea of Bethelsdorp being relin- quished, and earnestly requesting that it might be re- tained. Three resolutions were then passed ; one, of thankfulness to the Society for its exertions during so many CONTRIBUTIONS. 71 years on their behalf, and, above all, to God, who had raised up such a Society; a second, of earnest desire that the Institution might be maintained ; and a third, of jrromlse to aid it by enlarged contributions. A paper was then filled with their names as contributors. They came forwai'd and promised what they would give during the year. Many promised £-2 ; others, £1 10s. ; others, £1; and others, smaller sums. Mr. Kitchingman assured me, that he had no doubt nearly all these would fulfil their promises, and that they had the means of doing so. The sum total promised at the morning meeting amounted to about £90 ; a few others still intended put- ting down their names, and the aggregate might be con- sidered as £100. This would be exclusive of their usual monthly and annual collections. Another meeting of the people was held during my visit, in relation to some of the secular arrangements of the Institution. There is what is termed the " Algemeene Werk" — a public service, such as keeping roads, fences, &c., in repair. Usually, the people have all given Monday, through the year, to these objects. This is equivalent to a cost of £240 a year, estimating the day's work at Is. Qd., and allowing for only sixty men on the Institution. This has occasioned great loss, many heart-burnings, and un- necessary altercations. It is now proposed that the people tax themselves, as at Hankey, and pay out of the sum raised for the actual work done. This seems to be a plan at once more economical and more equitable. The pay- ment of a third of the sum now sacrificed, say sixpence per week, or £1 6s. during the year, would accomplish the object, and save to every man time for labour equal in value to £2 l'2s. per annum — a far larger amount than they now contribute to the parent Society. Other important matters were brought under review, such as hiring part of a farm in the vicinity of Bethelsdorp, for grazing their cattle, and an attempt to obtain a better HU2)ply of water for the Institution, by means of l)oring. 73 riTENITAGE TEA TARTY. Tliese and other points gravely affecting the welfare and advancement of the people will continue to share the attention of the Missionary who is now settled over them, with fair prospects of usefulness and comfort, and who is within reach of the judicious counsels of Dr. Philip at Hankey, with Messrs. D. Philip and J. Christie. In the course of the next week (18th July) 1 left Bethels- dorp. The Eev. T. J. Paterson, Missionary at Uitenhage, had set out with two friends to meet me on my way thither. I accompanied them to Uitenhage, the principal town of the district of that name, eleven miles from Bethelsdorp. The situation of the place is admirable. It is a fertile spot, on the old red-sandstone formation, and well watered. The streets are wide, and at right angles with each other. Here are many excellent houses — some in the Dutch, and others in the English style. Small ri\Tilets run down some of the streets on both sides, and keep the gardens well watered, and the trees fresh and flourishing. Among these are oaks, willows, oranges, peaches, and firs. I obsei'\-ed also the banana and almond. The whole aspect of the place is pleasing and reviving. The town occupies a large space, the houses being almost all detached, and all having gardens. There is a good church, stone-bviilt, belonging to the Dutch Reformed Congregation, and of which Mr. Smith has been minister for more than twenty-five years ; — an excellent man and indefatigable minister. The popu- lation is about five thousand, and consists half of white people, and half of coloured, including Fingoes, Bassutos, Hottentots, and mixed races. On reaching the to^\^n (2 o'clock p. m.), I found the friends of the congi-egation of the London Missionary Society all busy with preparations for a soiree that even- ing, and which was intended as a mark of the esteem and respect they were desirou.s of showing me, as the de- putation from the Society. Accordingly, at 6 o'clock, we met. About 400 sat down to tea. The Rev. Mr. Smith, of the Dutch Church, took the chair. Mr. Hall, Wesleyan PUBLIC MEETING. 73 minister, was with us, and Mr. Kitcliingman, from Bethels- dorp. Tlie body of the chapel was occupied with a cross table, veiy neatly and tastefully ornamented with flowers, and amply supplied with oranges and cakes ; two immense chandeliers occupied the centre of the tables, gaily adorned with flowers. The singers occupied the galleries. After tea we had several addresses, and after each, a hymn, or some other piece of sacred composition, was sung ; and, excepting that the voices wei'e rather too powerful, the execution was excellent, under the guidance of Mr. Jones. In the course of the evening, oranges and cake were handed round, and later in the evening, coffee. The com- pany broke up about 10 o'clock — all delighted, I think, with the Christian spirit that had pervaded the meeting, and the animated appearance and kindly character of the whole scene. The assembly consisted almost exclusively of persons of colour ; but all were comfortably and even respectably dressed in European clothing. All the arrange- ments were well conducted, and I was gratified on learning that the whole had been managed by the people them- selves. They paid one shilling each for tickets of admis- sion, and devoted the suiplus, after paying cost of provisions, &c., to the general funds connected with the congregation. They hold, annually, a similar meeting, usually about Christmas, in commemoration of the abolition of slavery, in which condition most of those present had been bom, and out of which tliey had been, through British justice and benevolence, happily rescued. And how well they deseiwed emancipation, and how amply they have profited by their advantages in their new condition, the scene of social comfort, intelligence, order, and ix'ligion which I witnessed that evening, afforded me many and cheering illustrations, and made me wish, that everywhere, in both liemispheres, man were as free and as liappy. Next evening, we held a public meeting of the congrega- tion. This gave me the desired opportunity of stating more fully and explicitly the objects of my visit, and the 74 THEOrOLIS. views and wishes of the parent Society in reference to their making additional ctl'orts towards the support of their own ministry and institutions. Considering the circumstances of the people, that they are all of the lahouring classes, with limited means of support, they have hitherto con- tributed liberally towards the funds of the Society, — say about £Q0 per annum. These Auxiliary contributions are, howevei', usually expended on local objects, such as repairs of Mission premises, chapels, schools, &c. The next Station which I had to visit was Theopolis, and my route thither led me again through Bethelsdorp. Accompanied by Rev. T. J. Paterson, and seven of his people, I set out on horseback, and remained about an hour at Bethelsdorp. ^ly wagon had been sent forward in the morning. Mr. Kitcliingman and myself overtook it in the course of the afternoon, and " outspanned"' for the night at " Commandos Kraal." Next day, we reached Long Bush, a Missionary out-station connected with the services of Mr. Smith, of Graham's Town, and where Mr. Smith had come forward to meet me. The j^eople here are chiefly wood-cutters, and deserve, as I think, encourag- ing treatment at the hands of the Government, as a sober, industrious, and intelligent people. They might form a village and a thriving community. They have built a small chapel on the spot, and we held sendee there next morning. From hence, Mr. Smith returned to Graham's Town, Mr. Kitcliingman to Bethelsclor^), and I proceeded to Theopolis. The actual distance is not more than eighty miles, but the journey is fatiguing. It has occupied Jive days, and that too with the advantage of a frequent change of oxen, supplied by the Bethelsdorp people, the Long Bush people, and two spans from Theopolis. The scenery for the first two or three days was extremely uninteresting: the ground we passed over consisted mainly of sandstone. The last two days have presented some very agreeable sceneiy — some fine kloofs, valleys, and defiles, well wooded and well watered. The descents to the rivers have been THEOPOLTS. 76 rather troublesome. We crossed the Zondag River after the Zwartkops, the Bushman River — often difficult and dangerous — and then the Kasouga. The latter river, which runs close by the Institution, is there a very small stream. The village looked well at a little distance, and more especially as, in honour of my visit, the people had white- washed the exterior of their houses and the public build- ings, the chapel, schools, and the Missionaries' houses. There had been a long drought, and, consequently, neither fields nor gardens indicated much cultivation. Some showers were now falling, and ploughing had commenced. I observed, on my journey, the old Dutch plough still in use, with its ten or twelve oxen ! Occasion- ally, the American plough is used, and is becoming more extensively demanded. This is worked with three or four oxen. The Dutch are very jealous of changes. On the Sunday which I spent at Theopolis, the congrega- tions were good. The chapel holds about four hundred, and was nearly filled. The appearance of the people is that of great poverty, or of great negligence. I presume a share of both exists. The people, however, have but few means of procuring a livelihood. Their only market is Graham s Town, thirty miles distant. They cannot convey a load of produce there at a cost of much less than 20s. They manufacture, from the timber on the Institution, axles, fellies, spokes, &c. They fell and sell timber, and make charcoal. There is no lime on the estate. They cannot grow much, for want of a better supply of water. There is no artificial irrigation, nor any means of obtaining it. All those who had cattle suffered severely by the losses sus- tained in the late Kaffir War. The aged Missionary, Mr. Sass (since deceased), lost all the few oxen he had, in both the last wars. I am not aware of any sufficient reason why Theopolis might not be as important and effective an Institution now as it formerly was. The natural capabilities, thcjugh few, rciiiain the same ; and I should think that a devoted and 76 SUFFERINGS FROM WAR, 1847. effective ^Missionary there would be as successful in raising the Institution as in former times. At present it is placed under the vigilant superintendence of our Missionary, Eev. N. H. Suiith, of Graham's Town, ^who pays it regular periodical visits. The people have promised to raise £50 per annum towards the expenses incurred by the Society. There is a congregation of about two hundred people. About one hundred and forty children attend the day and infant schools, and there are fifty members on the Church books. Theopolis was in imminent danger during the KaflSrWar of ] 846-47. The Missionary who was there at the time, Rev. R. B. Taylor, now at Cradock, has given a gi'aphic description of the circumstances, in the following terms : — " The first attack on Theopolis, by the Kaffirs, took place on Mon- day night, April 26th. Riunoiirs of their being in the neighbourhood had reached us some days previously. They had made a furious attack, on the 25th, on the camp formed at the residence of Mr. McLuckie, a farmer a few miles distant. The house being built of stone, they made no material impression on it, but swept off the whole of the cattle, amounting, it was said, to upwards of 1600. A little before sunset I observed three or four Kaffirs dodging about on the height west of the collage, evidently making observations. ITiese were pointed out to the commandant, Plaatje Bezuidenhout. He immediately set the watch, fully expectmg an attack to be made that night. The women and children were placed, for greater secu- rity, some in the chapel, some in the infant school-house, and the rest in my dwelling-house. "Within two hours after sunset an at- tack was made. It continued till about midnight, when they retired. "At six o'clock next morning a patrool started as usual, and at about half-past nine sharp filing was heard behind a hill, in front of the village. It was evident that our patrool was engaged. All the able-bodied men proceeded to the spot whence the roll of musketry came ; the aged and weakly posted themselves as guards on the rising ground above and around the tillage. The firing became ter- rific, and lasted till ten o'clock p. m. It soon after entirely ceased. An intense and painful solicitude was felt to know the resiilt. A full hour elapsed ere anything occurred to relicA^e the suspense. At last a compact column was perceived moving over and descending the crown of the hill, which had concealed the combatants from ^iew. SUFFERINGS FROM WAR, 1847. 77 The inquiry now arose — ' But who are they ?' By the aid of a tele- scope I could distinguish them, and I then told the anxious group about me, ' They are men icith clothes on.' This instantly gave relief. ' Then they are our people,' instantly bvu-st from every mouth ; and soon we had the happiness to find that, although they had been op- posed to upwards of one hiuidi-ed foot and a dozen horsemen^: — double their own number — there was not only no one missing of our people, but not one wounded. Of the Kaifirs, eleven poor creatures had been shot, and many wovuided. The Kaffirs, however, came down upon us again about eight in the evening, and continued fight- iaig till nearly day-dawn next morning. None of oirr people were injm-ed ; but, fi-om traces of blood on the gromid, it was su^Dposed several of the enemy had been woiurded. "Next night they attacked the camp of Dell, within thi-ee miles of the village, so that we had rest for that night from fighting, though not from anxietj^ and watching. Thursday they agam came upon lis, but from a different quarter, and were again beaten off. They renewed the attack at night, and this proved the most terrific and the most disastrous of all. The night was truly di-eadful: tkrough the treachery of some Kaffir- women, to whom, as people in distress, we had a few days pre\iously given refuge, our cattle ki-aal was opened in three several places, and the whole of the cattle di'iven out. The greater part were recaptured, but the Kaffirs got off with about tluee hundred and fifty head. Two of our people, Fingoes, were severely wounded, one Avith an assagai, the other with a bullet, of which wounds, a day or two afterwards, both died. One of these Avas a Cluistian — a man whom I had hoped wordd in a short time become very useful as a Catecliist. The almost incessant fighting had ex- pended nearly the whole of the ammunition. All communication with Graham's To\vn, the only place whence it could be obtaijied, was cut off. The Kaffirs were in force all around us, and flushed with their success. Nothing, in the usual eoiu-se of things, offered, that could prevent the full execution of a thi-cat piit forth by the enemy at the beginning — ' to take all the cattle, then kill all the men, destroy the buildings, and take the women for themselves.' This was i)re- eminently our time of need. Prayer, that had not ceased to be offei'cd fi-om the commencement, now became the only hope of the pious. " While hastily putting together necessary articles, in preparation for a proposed attempt to force our way through to Graham's Town, we received intelligence of the arrival of Colonel Somerset, with his division, in our immediate neighbourhood. A company of the Cape Corps was given as a guard for the night. Sabbath momuig, the Colonel came to give us notice that it was his intention to remove all 78 ,.-' GRAHAMS TOWN. European families ■from the district, in order to his hemg ahle to de- vote his undivided attention to the expulsion of the numerous bands of KafHrs Avhich had got into it. In pressing this point, he was kind but decided. He regretted the necessity of the measure, but the strength of the enemy and the weakness of the force at his command rendered its adoption imperative ; and next morning, before day- break, ivagons came from the Colonel, with a strong escort, and orders for our immediate removal. By Tuesday night we were all safe in Graham's Town." The people of Theopolis kindly provided me with the loan of two teams of oxen, to assist me in reaching Graham's TowTi, thirty-five miles distant. The first span proceeded as far as Brak Eiver, and the second brought me to the foot of the hill adjoining the to^^^l. There the Eev. W. C. Thompson met me, and with him I proceeded on horseback the rest of the journey, leaving the wagon to follownext morning. This is a long and wearisome part of the excursion ; the ascent of the hill is fatiguing, and presents as miserable a piece of road as ever panted for the skill of McAdam. It was nearly ten o'clock at night before I reached the hospitable residence of H. Rutherfoord, Esq., who had kindly sent forward a note to renew his friendly invitation, with that of Mrs. Rutherfoord, that during my stay in Graham's To^^^lhis house should be my domicile. I recur to my visit there with grateful interest, and could only wish eveiy Christian family to be as well regulated as I found theirs to be, — that every Missionary had as cordial a welcome and cheering attentions from some Gains as I received — and that everv^ merchant of every town in the world .possessed as honourable a character in society as the gentleman of whom I speak. Graham's Town, the chief towni of Albany, and the me- tropolis of the eastern division of the colony, has little beauty and no antiquity to boast of. Its importance may be dated from the arrival of a body of settlers in 1820. The district was fomierly called the Zuurveld (Sour Field). The native Kafiirs were ex- pelled by force of araas. The towai is situated on a low CHArELS. 79 piece of countiy, suiToiinded by sandstone hills, whose aspect at present is cheerless and uninviting'. .No trees adorn the hills, hut they are not without grass, heatlis, and hushes. The kloofs or ravines have some large timber, and exhibit some rich scenery. The township is large. It is said to occupy almost as much space as Cape Town, though having at present not more than one-sixth of the inhabitants, — say 5000 or 6000. The streets are bold and spacious. In some of them there are rows of oak-trees facing the houses, and occasionally the handsome Kaffir Boom [Erijthrinn). The shops do not make any emulous appear- ance, but they seem well stored within, and an active, enterprising spirit pervades the community. During the last year or two, losses from bankruptcy have been very great. During the Kaffir War, the influx of money was exceedingly great, and lands were purchased at enormous prices. A reaction has taken place ; land has fallen in value, and parties are worth much less than they were. But a revival of trade is anticipated, and if peace be preserved, there is little fear but that prosperity may be secured. War may be profitable to a few, but is fatal to the prosperity of the many. The Wesleyans form the principal religious denomina- tion in the place. They and the Independent body constitute, by far, the most influential section of the com- munity. The foiTner have a good chapel, which is well attended. They are also building anew and very spacious place, ninety feet by fifty feet, at a cost of about £5000 or .i'fiOOO. The Independents have an excellentchapcl, of which the Rev. W. T. Thompson (late Missionary at Philippolis) is the minister, whose predecessor was the Rev. Mr. Locke, a man greatly beloved, and eminently successful. The Baptists have also a chapel in the town, but at j»resent its affairs are in an unsettled state. Mr. Hay, their minister, has felt it his duty to retire from the chapel, the principal part of the members of the churcli and congregation seceding with him, and leaving the 80 IIOTTICNTOT CORPS OF CAPE MOUNTED RIFLES. building in the hands of the minority. The London Missionaiy Society has also a chapel, where Mr. Smith ministers to a large coloiired congi'egation. But a much larger place is needful. Their present chapel might have been sold lately at a large price, and a more spacious place obtained with the proceeds, but some delay occurred in obtaining from Caj)e Town the transfer deeds, on which alone the sale could be effected. An effort must yet be made to raise a subscription, and secure a Building Fund, so that ultimately the people may enjoy a place of worship capable of accommodating, say 800 persons. During my stay in Graham's Town, I had a long con- versation with Colonel, now General Somerset, who holds a high and influential position here, and who is recognised as a staunch friend of the coloured people, and of their legitimate claims and rights. The colony is much in- debted to him for his prompt and vigorous service during the late w-ar. It is thought by many that his promptness saved the colony — his movements were so rapid and suc- cessful. He has a high opinion of the steadiness and gallantry of his men. He commands the Cape Mounted Kifles. They are Hottentots. He highly appreciates their docile character ; but he deems it most essential that they should be under constant and effective superintendence. Well trained and managed, they conduct themselves with excellent order and propriety ; but neglected, and placed in the midst of temptation, they are too feeble to main- tain their position. They have not, the Colonel thinks, any large amount of moral power. He alluded particularly to the snare of intoxication. He assured me that for eighteen months, during the war, and while having the command of from 3500 to 5000 men, he had no cases of insubordination — no cases requiring punishment — which he attributed to the fact of there being no "canteens" within reach, and no brandy or any ardent spirits being permitted to be introduced among his men. Now% indeed, within the colony, and within the town, he finds it impos- CANTEENS. 81 sible to prevent the evil. So many canteens are licensed, that the men have easy access to them, and the vice of intoxication has become common. He has now sometimes one hundred cases of discipline in the course of a day, from this source alone, and is obliged to submit to the evil of having a " canteen" within his barracks, as a less evil than that of allowing his soldiers to absent themselves in quest of the " grog-shojis" in the town. The Colonel's testimony goes far to prove, that the system of so exten- sively granting licenses for the sale of ardent spirits, is fast ruining the labouring population of the colony. It aids the revenue, but destroys the men — their character, their self-respect, their morals, and their health. There is a native village at a short distance from the to\vn, where several Hottentots reside, and at a short dis- tance, some Fingoes. I called on some of the former. The occupants are intelligent men — industrious, sober, and deserving of encouragement. But they are anxious, na- turally anxious, as to their position. They have been encouraged to build, with the promise of having the lands measured out and secured to them. This was a promise made by the late Mr. West, subsequently Governor of Natal, wliile residing as Commissioner at Graham's Town. On the faith of that promise they have built, but have not yet obtained the promised security. They fear to go on with their improvements, and others also are afraid to commence. This ought not to be : the people should be dealt with fairly, kindly, and paternally ; and every pro- mise made to them by the Government slujuld be strictly fulfilled. I owe it to the spontaneous and kindly feeling of the friends in Graham's Town, to add, that they did me the honour of holding a public tea-meeting, to whicb they invited me, and which was very numerously and rcspiict- ably attended, by members of all the Christian denomina- tions in the town, and gentlemen of the highest standing in tlic; (•()mmunity. It gave me a favoural)l(! impression of G B'i TEA-MEETING. the social character of the people, and afforded me the opportunity, not only of hearing the sentiments of those who spoke in the course of the evening, but of giving ex- pression to my own, on the responsibility of British colo- nists and Christians to the coloured and aboriginal races. C H A P T E K IV. NOTICES OF THE COUXTRY DISTRICT OF VICTORIA NEUTRAL TERRITORY MAKOMO BRITISH KAFFRARIA FORT BEAUFORT — UMX.ELO FIK- GOES ATTACK ON FORT BEAUFORT, DEATH OF HERMANUS DIFFI- CULTIES OF MISSIONARIES — ^MESSRS. READ BIRIvLANDS AMATOLA MOUNTAINS MR. CALDERWOOD ' ' ALICE" " LOVEDALE" MISSION S IN K.AFFIRLAND TO BE PROSECUTED CHUMIE MOUNTAINS BURN's HILL loss of COMMISSARIAT HOTTENTOT COURAGE — KAFFIR CHARACTER "KNAPP's HOPE" IRRIGATION AGRICULTURE SUPER- SEDING WAR LIMITED LOCATIONS -WAR BREAKS OUT KING WIL- LIAM's TOWN COMPANIONS MR. BROWNLEE's LOSSES, NO COM- PENSATION CONGREGATION, DESIRE OF IMPROVEMENT COLONEL MACKINNON MOUNT COKE STATE OF KAFFIRLAND HOPES SUS- PICIONS JAN TZATZOE MR. ROSS, PERIE MR. BIRT's STATION YOUNG men's class AGRICULTURAL EFFORTS CLASS OF NATIVE WOMEN HELP FROM ENGLAND. My steps were now directed towards British Kaffraria, commonly called Katiirland, and to the Kat River Settle- ment. I looked forward to both with great interest; to the former, as containing an immense body of aborigines, brought into close contact with the colonists, the effect of wliich remained to be seen; and to the latter, as the largest existing experiment in South Africa of an attempt to elevate an aboriginal race — the Hottentots. I had to proceed, in the first instance, from Graham s Town to Fort Beaufort, afterwards to Alice and Kinart of the country now faUing under observation. The district of Beaufort, and the division of Victoria, be- longed a few years ago to the Gaika tribe of the Kaffirs, and were occupied by them. Up to 1819, the Great Fish Pviver was the eastern boundary of the colony ; and, in fact, for seven years longer we put in no claim to the country beyond that river, although the colony had some misunderstandings with the Kaffirs there. In 1819, war broke out; and at its close, we arranged with Gaika, our ally, and some of the chiefs wliom he had conquered, that neither Kaffirs nor colonists should occupy the land between the said Fish Elver and the Keiskamma. That land we then designated " Neutral Territory." In 1820, Sir Eufane Donkin annexed it to Albany, a colonial dis- trict, and called it in his proclamation " Newly-acquired Territory." But in 1823, Lord Charles Somerset withdrew that proclamation, and again made the Fish Eiver the boundary beyond which the colonists were not to advance. Many Kaffirs were, however, allowed to settle on this piece of country, and they no doubt anticipated its ultimate restoration to them. This state of things continued up to 1829, though two years previously the Kaffirs were ordered to retire across the river. It was in the middle part of 1829, that Makomo, a Kaffir chief, a son of Gaika, was forcibly expelled: he was at that time occupying "Balfour," on the western side of the Kat Eiver; he was driven with his people across that river, under pretence of punishing him for an attack on the Tambookies. His cattle were seized, and his kraal set on fire : he was thus expelled from the part of the countiy which we now include in what is designated Beaufort, and forced into a part of the countiy now called Victoria, and which at that time we called, to- gether with Beaufort, the Neutral Territory. On the ex- pulsion of Makomo, the Hottentots were located there, in the spot called the "Kat Eiver Settlement," being a section of the district called Beaufort, and including all that fertile BRITISH K.\FFKAEIA. 85 spot which is watered by the various streams that fall from the Winterberg into the Kat River. The division of Victoria has a sea coast of about thirty- five miles. It lies between the Great Fish River up to the point where Kat River falls into it, and the Keiskamma up to the point where the Chumie falls into it. Its noi'thern part is then continued between the said Kat River and the Chumie uj) to Makomo's Hill, by the foot of the Chumie Mountains and the Kat Berg to Gaika's Hill. Beyond that, again, it has a detached piece of terri- tory, beyond the Winterberg, bounded by the Zwarte, or Black Kei, and the Klip Plaats Rivers. Here Mr. Shep- stone is Assistant Commissioner for the Tambookie Tribes. Beyond this, and between the Zwarte Kei and the White Kei, is a piece of country over which we claim to exercise autliority, sometimes called the Bushman Country, or Ma- door's Country, and here Mr. Joseph Read has an a})point- ment as Sujierintendent of native locations in the Bushman Country. Altogether, the natives falling within the Civil Commissionership of Mr. Calderwood may be about fifty thousand. To the east of Victoria lies " British Kaffraria," with a sea coast of nearly one hundred miles, having on one side the Keiskamma and Chumie, and on the other the Great Kei u}) to where the Black Kei falls into it. From that junction, also, the Klip Plaats River forms the Avestern boundary of the northern portion of British Katfraria, down to Gaika's Hill. The Amatola Mountains are included in this British Kaffraria. It has also, about thirty miles beyond the Keiskamma, the Buffalo River, with its Port of East London, by which port the Governor effects his communi- cations with the colony during the present Kathr War. The principal town and seat of government in British Kaffraria is King William's Town. Colonel Mackinnon is the commanding officer. Beyond the Kei is Kaffirland, more properly so called, and is occupied by independent tribes of Kaffirs up to Natal. Albert lies on the north and 86 FORT BEAUFORT. north-east of Victoria, beyond the Stormberg, and its north- em boundaries meet the Orange Eiver sovereignty. To proceed with my route. Fort Beaufort is not more than a day's ride from Graham's Town. I set out rather late, and reached it only on the second day, having rested at the " Konap" for the night, and halted for a short time in the morning at Leeuw Fontein. Thus far it is a dreary ride over a plain wholly destitute of interest. Afterwards, the scene changes ; hills and mountains come into nearer view, with their fertile valleys and well-wooded ravines. The Rev. J. Gill, of Fort Beaufort, came forward to the Konap, where we met, and from whence we proceeded together to his residence, crossing the Kat Eiver as we entered the town. This place was originally what its name (Fort) imports, a military post, and one of a line of posts intended to pro- tect this part of the fi'ontier from Kaffir invasions, while the colonial boundary was the Fish River. The eastern fron- tier of the colony being now the Keiskamma, much in advance of the former line, Fort Beaufort has ceased to be of the importance it was; but it has risen to be a consider- able town, and during the late Kaffir war increased largely. Prior to the war there were many wealthy and flourishing farmers in the neighbourhood, especially sheep farmers, some of whom possessed from two thousand to eight or ten thousand sheep, the wool of which was exported to England. These often expended large sums of money in the town : the market became important — traffic was large, shops and stores were numerous, and the spirit of enterprise active. The war destroyed or arrested all that prosperity: many of the tradesmen failed; many inhabitants removed from the locality ; buildings had been multiplied too rapidly, and property was incautiously or two eagerly invested, at high prices in land, and men who u-ouJd be rich at all hazards "pierced themselves through with many sorrows."' The aspect of the place is now sombre and discouraging. Hope remains ; it is said that things have reached their lowest UMXELO — FINGOES. 87 point in the downward tendency, and that ere long there must be gradual and steady revival, with moderate and continuous prosperity. But all things must be extremely fluctuating and uncertain on a border where peace and war alternate in such rapid succession. Mr. Gill has two out-stations, Umxelo and Birklands, and an occasional service at the Cowie. I accompanied him on a visit to Umxelo, formerly the residence of Mr. Birt, our Missionary now at Peeltown, and at that time a Kafiir station among the people under the chieftain Botmen. The chapel had been burnt by the Kaffirs during the war, and was afterw^ards occupied by British troops, and in the remaining walls of which are seen the holes cut out for the discharge of muskets — sad use to make of a sanctuary of peace ! The station had been abandoned for a length of time, but was lately resumed. The locality is now occu- pied by about twelve or fifteen families of Fingoes. There is a fine stream of water belonging to the location, and included within the boundary-lines of Umxelo, as de- fined by Mr. Calderwood, the Civil Commissioner. It is not intended to permit a larger number of natives to be located there. The present small number is sufficient to occupy the grazing ground. The people have a few sheep and goats, but they are not an agricultural people. We held a short service with them in the afternoon. They are poor, but they were dressed in European clothing, and looked comfortable ; I saw only one having on the old sheep-skin kai'oss. We had met several men on the road, wearing simply a blanket across the shoulder. The features of the people arc neither inviting nor repulsive. They are large : the eye is good, calm, intelligent, and benevolent; the nose is large, and expanded ; the lips large and tliick ; the hair consists of small tufts, resembling that of the Hottentots. The language is a dialect of the Kaffir, and contains the click, and which, in the name of the place, is represented by our letter X, perhaps the nearest sound to it, but yet so remote that no one could guess the true 88 ATTACK OX FORT BEAUFORT. sound by the chai'acter. If beautiful at all, I should say it is ine.rpressibli/ beautiful. Fort Beaufort has been the seat of an attack during the Kaffir War of 1851. In a letter which I received from the Eev. J. Gill, dated 8th January, he states that — "Early on the morning of the 7th, Hermanns, -with, some 500 or 600 men, attacked the to'w-n shai-ply. A hurried fire was kept up for about twenty minutes between the Kaffirs and the Fingoes, our allies, and the enemy began to retreat. About forty Kaffirs were found dead, and six or seven Hottentots. The enemy was pursued to Blink- water and Fuller's Hoek. Many head of cattle, horses, and vai-ious articles plundered fi-om the neighbourmg farmers, were recovered. It is thought that about a hundred men altogether, including Hermanns himself, were killed You will suppose that we have been in much excitement and no little fear. Had Hermanns re- mained ti'ue, we should have had little to fear. His baseness, together ■\\-ith the reported intentions of Sandilli to join him in an attack on us, made us feel that our hves were in jeopardy. Most of the houses are now barricaded, and the women and children have been sleeping at the barracks. All the farmers round us for fifty miles have fled. We haA-e no market and no trade. Many are obliged to enrol under Government in order to obtain a little food. Nearly all our roads at present are closed. There is no bread to be bought. The whole meal or flour iji the to\\Ti will not last more, it is said, than six weeks. Both that and butcher's meat are trebled in price. " You will be glad to know that all the people from Birklands are here, and most of those from TJmxelo. They meet with me in the English chapel twice on Sundays and two or three times in the week. The chapel is filled, though many of the people are absent attending the cattle. Our day and Sunday-schools are being kept up as well as possible. . . . ilay God be gracious unto us, and make us meet for our day ! " Since the above was written, intelligence has been re- ceived that some communications had been opened by the troops under Colonel Mackinnon, and it may be Jwped that supplies have been obtained, and additional forces spared, to guarantee the tow'n against another attack. In consequence of this state of things, the expense of this Mission station will fall more heavily on the funds of the parent Society than had been anticij^ated, and this DIFFICULTIES OF MISSIONARIES. 89 much to the regret of the jMissionary and the mortification of his friends. The European portion of Mr. Gill's congregation, though limited in number, had promised to raise, in consideration of the Missionary's English services to them, about half the amount of his salary, and to pay his house-rent. This arrangement would leave the parent Society to meet only such expenses as might be incurred on consideration of Mr. Gill's services among the Kaihrs, Fingoes, and Hot- tentots. But, amidst the serious embarrassments and unexpected difficulties which have arisen, the Missionary will share the sympathy and support of the Society. Neither will this be an unique case. All our IMission stations in the vicinity of Kaffirland will suffer, and, in fact, all within the colony will be more or less severely affected by this disastrous Kaffir war. This is just one of those contingencies which demonstrate the necessity of the Society's funds being kept in a healthy condition. During my stay at Foi't Beaufort, I had the pleasure of receiving a visit from our friends, the Rev. Messrs. Read, senior and junior, and whom I had not seen since their visit to England in 1836, accompanied by Jan Tzatzoe and Andries Stoffels. It was exceedingly pleasant to renew the acquaintance ; to meet a Missionary, after nearly fifty years' labours, in almost undiminished vigour, and the son treading in the father's steps, bearing the heat and the burden of the day without weariness or complaint. Arrangements were made for me as to the route I could most advantageously take in proceeding from this locality, through British Kaffraria, up to Madoor's Country, and back again to the Kat River Settlement. Some of the leading people also fi'om Philippolis came to converse with me at Fort Beaufort. They were anxious to obtain the services of Mr. Read, junior, as their Mis- sionary, in lieu of Mr. Thompson, who had recently left tlicm to settle over the Congregational Church at Gra- ham's Town. 90 MESSRS. READ — BIKKLANDS. This plan, however, of dis-locating Mr. Read, junior, from the Kat Eiver, could not be accomplished without serious detriment. I knew^, indeed, he would be invaluable at Philippolis ; but he was already so, as coadjutor with his venerable father, at Philipton, and therefore other arrange- ments were made for the Griquas. It was anticipated that Mr. Christie, from England, would be with them, and with that they were abundantly satisfied. On leaving Fort Beaufort, I rode with Mr. Gill to see his exit-station at " Birklands," where Mr. Calderwood formerly resided. The location is now occupied by a number of Kaffir families. It occupies a pleasant and gentle eleva- tion, and commands a good view of Fort Beaufort, about two miles and a half distant. The people are building for themselves very decent houses, instead of the round native hut. A chapel is in course of erection, where we held service. I gave a short address, which a young native translated into Kaffir. Mr. Calderwood, who had over- taken us on the road, on his w^ay from Fort Beaufort to Alice, added an exhortation in the native language, in which he appeared perfectly fluent. About one hundred people were present. A cottage is also building here, for Miss Thompson, from the "Glasgow Society," a lady who is laudably devoting her time and energies to the instruc- tion of the people. We continued our ride, and reached " Alice" the same afternoon. We passed through some highly picturesque scenery. The view of the " Amatola" range is exceedingly beautiful, with " Gaika's Kop" prominently in view, and partially covered with snow. This is the mountain range from which Sir Harry Smith says "the treacherous Kaffirs must be driven for ever, and exterminated! " In accepting the office under Government of " Civil Commissioner," Mr. Calderwood resigned, of course, his connexion with our Missionary Society. Hence my visit to Alice was not official. But I received from Mr. Calder- wood a most cordial welcome, and remained two or three " Alice" — " lovedale." 91 days under his hospitable roof, with gratification and profit. I found him possessed of the heart and sympathies of the Missionary still. He himself had not sought the civil appointment. It had been urged on his acceptance by men of high standing and religious character. The step was deliberately weighed, and then conscientiously taken. His office is not a sinecure, nor his path always smooth and easy. He has gained the confidence of the Govern- ment, and not sacrificed the esteem of all the good men in the Missionary field. The town of " Alice" is a rising place, but it has not more than forty or fifty families residing in it. It is situ- ate on the extreme border of the province of Victoria. The Chumie River runs by the town, and sepai-ates Vic- toria from British KafFraria; the Gaga, another stream passing here, falls into the Chumie. The Chumie is crossed by a wooden bridge near Fort Hare. This Fort was intended for fifteen hundred troops ; about two hun- dred only are there now, and a part of the Cape Corps Mounted Rifles, — a Hottentot regiment. The Free Church of Scotland has a Seminary near here, which I visited with Rev. J. Laing, who has charge of it. It is called " Lovedale," and receives a gratuity of ^100 per annum from the Government. Miss Harding, connected with a society in London,* is also here, for the purpose of instructing the natives. There arc not more than some six or seven pupils in the seminary, except a few European youths, who attend for education. The building is large and suitable. There were eighteen pupils before the late war. Mr. Weir attends to the secular department. There is a good piece of land attached to the Institution, granted by the Government for cultivation, say about twenty acres, and ten acres for the use of Mr. Laing. It is well watered. There is a proposal in Alice to bring out the water from a higher part of the Chumie, and irrigate a large piece of country about here, carrying it * " Society for Promoting Female Education in the East." 92 MISSIONS IN KAFFIRLAND. directly through the town. The cost is estimated at £150. There is a small but neat chapel here, in which Mr. Cal- derwood and Mr. Laing officiate alternately. It is well attended on Sundays. The rocks in this vicinity consist principally of sand- stone and indurated clays. There are indications of iron- stone. Lime is also found in the neighbourhood, and a bed of blue lias seems to traverse the district immediately across the Chumie. It contains some fossils ; a few only have yet been found. The Basaltic Dykes are vast and splendid between this and Fort Beaufort. From all the information which I had hitherto been able to gather, my impression became more and more confirmed, that our Society would not be justified in aban- doning Kaffirland as a field of Missionary labour. Some parties with whom I conversed thought there was no rea- son to apprehend any further interruption from an out- break of war, provided cautious measures of defence along the frontier were maintained, and the friendly policy of the Government pursued, and a population located along the borders, whose interests should be identified with the presei^ation of peace. It was regarded also as an import- ant and favourable circumstance, that the direct authority of the native chiefs over the people was so much reduced that they could not hinder the natives from locating them- selves where they chose. They could come to reside near a Mission station, without endangering their lives, liberty, or property. The Mission stations are under the protection of Government, and the lands occupied gi-anted by the Government. In addition to all this, the Mission- aries urged that they had already toiled long in the field : the fallow ground had been broken uji ; the seed of truth had been sown. They awaited and anticipated a harvest. They thought also that, though other Societies were labour- ing for the spiritual welfare of the Kaffirs, our efforts were required also, and that, in fact, an augmentation, and not a diminution of Missionaiy effort was demanded, " so that KNAPP's HOPE — BUKN's HILL. 93 Ave might not lose the things Avhich we had ah^eady Avronght." To all this, it might be added, that the Kaffir Missions of our Society were not on a large or expensive scale. In fact, they amount but to three — namely, King William "s Town, under Kev. J. BroAvnlee ; Knaj)p's Hope, under Kev. F. G. Kayser, aided by his son ; and Peelton, under Rev. R. Birt. Mr. Gill's services, also, at Fort Beaufort, are in part devoted to the Kaffirs. After weighing, deliberately, all these considerations, although I felt some misgivings as to the permanent tran- quillity of the country, I came to the conclusion that I could not recommend the Directors to withdraw their Missions from tliis portion of South Africa. Supposing that war were likely to arise, it still became our duty to diffuse as widely as possible the great truths of religious instruction, as the best means of preventing the calamity and of pre- serving peace ; and if, on the other hand, it were probable, as some believe, that peace would continue, then we had the fairest jirospect for the uninterrupted prosecution of our work. I proceeded from Alice to Knapp's Hope, the Mission Station of Rev. F. G. Kayser, so named by him in honour of the eminent Dr. Knapp, of Halle, Saxony, his former tutor. The ride from Alice to this spot is very beautiful. The scenery is magnificent, embracing the Chumic Moun- tains and the Amatola range. I passed on my way, at about six or seven miles' distance, the famous " Burn's Hill," where, the disastrous losses of our commissariat occurred, in the Kaffir War of 184G, when sixty-three wagons, loaded with valuable property, splendid dresses, ammunition, medicine, cash, &c., fell, unfortunately, into the hands of the enemy. It appears that two wagons got fast in tlie drift of a i-avinc. The oxen were then taken out of tlie binder one, and sent forward l)y a youth to assist in getting the first wagon clear of tlie t)bstruction. A Kaffir came up and led them forward, the lad su2)posing that he 94 LOSS Oy COMMISSAniAT — HOTTENTOT COURAGE. belonged to the first wagon. One wagon was thus left in the road without oxen, and as there was room for one only to pass at a time, the whole train was impeded. Many Kaffirs had collected in the neighbourhood. They saw their advantage. There were no troops close at hand to protect the property. The Kaffirs rushed on, and began climbing up into the wagons, as the natives describe it, like so many baboons. These they soon plundered, and then set fire to the wagons themselves. The powder-wagons were in the rear. An officer came up and desired the driver to take as many cartridges as they could carry, and then leave the wagons to their fate. This the men refused to do. They said, " No ; if we abandon the powder-wagons, all the ammuni- tion will fall into the hands of the Kaffirs, and we shall be destroyed by the very means they steal from us : we had better die in defending the wagons." They then, by a des- perate effort, moved off the three ammxmition wagons to a little distance. In doing so, one broke, and they removed its contents into the other two. The Kaffirs suspected there was something of great value there, and attacked them accordingly. The Hottentots fought bravely, defending these wagons from eight in the morning till eight at night, by which time assistance was obtained from some of her Majesty's troops and about forty of the Kat Eiver people. The men in charge of the wagons behaved remarkably well on the occasion. To the bravery of some of them was owing the preservation of the ammunition ; but no notice was taken of their meritorious sei-vices — nor was any remu- neration given them for the losses they sustained. This was an immense booty for the Kaffirs, obtained by them with very little effort, and I presume quite beyond their own anticipations. Not only was the escort quite insufficient to protect such a valuable team of wagons, and especially in passing through the country of a most vigilant and crafty enemy, but it is obvious that there had been a foolish contempt of the power and promptness of the enemy, and an equally unwise and overweening conceit of KNAPP's HOPE. 95 our own superiority. We are too apt to treat uncivilized men as though they were mere children, capable of being imposed on by gewgaws, pageantry, and splendour. This is a capital mistake. They often possess great shrewdness and common sense ; they have a very keen insight into the motives and real meaning of men who treat with them ; and instead of feeling themselves honoured by the white man's condescension in behaving towards them as childish and inferior races, they regard it very sensitively as an affront. It is at once more just, more complimentary, and more politic, to treat them as men — as rational and intelligent beings. To treat them as such, is one way to induce them to act as such. On reaching Knapp's Hope, I met with a kind reception from the Missionary family there, and attended public ser- vice that evening. The station is on a very limited scale. The chapel and Mission premises were burnt by the Kaffirs during the war of 1846. The natives affirm that this was not done out of any ill-will towards the Missionaries per- sonally, nor to their instructions, but simply as a measure of self-defence, so that these buildings might not afford defence to the English troops with whom they were then at war. Their chiefs had issued positive instructions that the property of the teachers should not be injured, and to some , extent the orders were faithfully observed. Mr. Kayser V^^ built a small cottage adjoining his former residence, apd I found him making arrangements for rebuilding the chapel. Mr. Kayser is a self-denying Missionary, emi- nently devoted to his work, and very anxious that all his family should be consecrated to the same employment. I pi'oceeded with Mr. Kayser to visit the locality, in order to judge of its desirableness as a Mission station. A large piece of land can be brought under cultivation by means of irrigation. This can be effected without serious dif- ficulty, as a water-course of about two miles in length already exists that can convey the water from a part of the Keiskamma. Yet it would require a length of time and 96 IRRIGATION. mueli labour to foi'm this into a station of any considerable magnitude ; and as to its creating resources, by which it might support itself, that seems to be out of the question for many years to come. It may be worth while to mention, that these artificial means of irrigation are extremely valuable and important in Kaffirland, not only as a means of securing a supply of pro- visions for the people, but by that very circumstance, as undermining and destroying the fatal influence of the rain- makers among the Kaffirs. Drought is, moreover, the great som'ce of cattle-stealing, trespassing, and war. Let the people have abundant crops, an ample supply for their families, and it would be far more difficult than it is, for chiefs or prophets to arouse them into a collision with the British Government. If one-tenth of the amount expended in war with the Kaffirs during the last fifteen years, had been expended on the agricultural improvement of the covmtry, my conviction is, that the other nine-tenths might all have been saved. Sir Henry Smith and the Aborigines' Protection Society have effected soviething of this nature, but far more is wanted, and the results will be in proportion to the ex- penditure, and the wisdom of its application. It is clear also to my mind, that if we are to prosecute Missions at all among the Kaffirs, we must be content to do so on a small scale, and amidst manifold discourage- ments. The Kaffirs do not and will not associate in any large numbers in any given locality. Their -s-illages (kraals) embrace only about five, ten, or twelve families each, and the chief reason of this, not a want of social instinct — the gregai'ious principle in man — but that, being a pastoral people, they require so much grazing gromid for their cattle. Many of the springs near which they settle are very small, and do not admit the location of a larger number of families than that just mentioned. I found other Missionary Societies labouring under the same difficulty. And it is a serious impediment in the prosecu- WAR BREAKS OUT. 97 tioii of the Missionary enterprise among them ; the con- gregations are necessarily small ; few children can be collected in the same schools, and the seminaries can obtain but few pupils. Still, the Missionaries, taken gene- rally, are more sanguine of success than at any former period in the history of the Kaffir Missions ; partly from the reasons already assigned, that the people are more independent of their chiefs, and can settle down in locations under British protection ; and partly from the changes already perceived in their habits. They cviltivate more land. The men are seen at work on the lands, and not the women alone, as formerly. Several Kaffirs in the neigh- bourhood of the Mission Stations are ploiufhiug lands, and raising corn for sale ; some also are building either im- proved huts (the round huts), or square cottages, and some uf them possess wagons as well as oxen. Since part of the foregoing was written, intelligence has been received in this country of another outbreak of war. The Kaffirs have collected in great strength against the British Government, and committed great havoc. On this melan(;holy subject further remarks will occur in succeeding chapters ; it is needful only to state here, that Mr. Kayser has been compelled to abandon this station of Knapp's Hope, and has found a temporary refuge at Alice. He remained up to the last moment, and retired only when life appeared to be in imminent danger. In a letter which he then addressed to the Society's Agent in Cape Town, the Piev. W. Thompson, he says, "Poor deluded Kaffir nation ! I mourn for thee, for thou wouldst not believe, and the time for thy destruction is at hand." Mr. Thompson most suitably adds to the foregoing extract the following re- marks, in closing the Report for 1850 of the Society's Labours in South Africa : — " Our hearts bleed for Kaffirland. Amid the din and the cruelty of savage warfare, we acknowledge her noble race of inliabitants a.s our icllow-men, their wretchedness as a people demands our deepest coni- miseration, and we mourn over the cessation of tliosc labours destined H 98 KING WILLIAMS TOWN — COMPANION'S. to effect tlicir elevation for time and eternity. Yet even tliis dire calamity may be OAerruled for good to them and to the colony. Although ' cast down, we are not in despair.' Xor is our faith at all shaken in the efficacy of Chi'istian Missions, and in the final triumphs of the gospel in this benighted land. We regard it as no proof of the failure of our efforts — with whatever confidence it may have been urged — that notwithstanding the labours of years, by the agents of the different Missionary societies, the Kaffirs as a nation remain un- converted, \mcivilized, and in their ferocitj^ unsubdued. Proofs of a more marvellous fact still meet us, in all the large towns of this colony and of our father-land, of men within the reach of every Christian privilege remaining unbenefited and imblessed thereby, breathing a spirit not less sanguinary than that they condemn iii the Kaffirs ; and, notwithstanding the powerful voice of ptiblic opinion, and the resti'aints of a society modified by the genial influences of the gospel, — not more truthful, honest, nor pure than they. And shall we then charge home on that Societj', or on the Chiistianitj^ which gives it its tone, that it has not effected the removal of these ■\'ices ? "\Ve are no apologists for the defects of character or conduct in the coloured man ; but we do not consider them aggraA'ated because he is coloiu-ed. Partaking of the same corrupt nature -with ourselves, we seek that he may enjoy the same spiritual privileges, and finally, through DiAine grace, reach the same heavenly home. We ask our friends to aid us, not merely by theii- pecuniaiy gifts, but by their sympathy and praj^ers." On setting out from Knapp's Hope for King William's Town, the principal town and seat of Goveniment in British Kaffraria, Mr. Kayser accompanied me some distance until I overtook my wagon, which had been sent forward the same morning. Mr. Kayser then returned, and I con- tinued my journey amidst the fair and beautiful scenery of Kaffraria, and as perfectly tmmolested and without fear of interruption as I should have been in any part of the United Kingdom. The time of my leaving Knapp's Hope having been intimated to our laborious ]Missionary, the Rev. J. Brownlee, of King William's Town, he kindly came for- ward on horseback to meet me. and then accompanied me in my wagon to his residence. And here I may just re- mark, that I found it a great relief to the tedium of my solitary travelling in South Africa, to be thus frequently MR. BEOWXLEES LOSSES — NO COMPENSATION'. 99 accompanied for some distance by a brother ]\Iissionary. I think that, out of the eleven months occupied in my whole journe}', I had some one or other friend to associate with me, so frequently, as tO'form altogether an aggregate of about five or six months. This alTorded me many valu- able opportunities of gratifying and profitable intercourse with the brethren. I found Mr. Brownlee residing at a short distance from the town, and near the bai'racks. The town has risen into considerable importance since the last war. It is a military station, and the most important one in British Kaffraria; Lieutenant Colonel Mackinnon is Chief Commissioner for the whole district, and resides here. Besides the military under Colonel Armstrong, there maybe about one hundred families resident, and a few Kaffirs. The Buffalo Piiver runs in the immediate neighbourhood. At a distance of about three miles the water has been led out, and is con- veyed by a water-course to the town, for irrigating the gar- dens. This work was commenced and carried forward bv Mr. Brownlee, and involved considerable expense. Its exact amount cannot be known, as Mr. Brownlee often paid the workpeople in food instead of money, and much of his own time which was expended on it was of course paid for by the London Missionary Society, in the shape of salary. But the work could not be performed, if paid for now, at a less sum than from £-250 to d6300. Of all this advantage the British Government has availed itself, and, I must add. without any remuneration to Mr. Brownlee or the Societij. Jt seems to have been taken with the locality of the town as one of the sites held by the Government in British Kaffra- ria, and of which the Kaffirs are deprived, as one of tlie consequences of the war. Still, I cannot see that these circumstances should deprive a British suhject of j^crsonal property, as it has done in the case of Mr. Brownlee, or the Society either. Mr. Brownlee has also been deprived of his dwelling-house, garden, and chapel. The house and garden are taken by the Govcnnncnt, and allotted to tlie 100 CONGliKCiATION' DESIRF. DK !.Mri!OVi;ME:N'T. Commissioner as his residence. The fruit-trees in the garden, all planted by Mr. Brownlee himself, yielded a produce worth from £50 to £70 per annum, and would still yield it. The walls of the chapel remain, — the roof, &c., was burned by the Kaffirs during the war; the site and the walls arc claimed by the British Government. Mr. Brownlee has taken another site, on which he has built a small cot- tage, as his dwelling-house ; also another building of a very humble description, which serves for chapel and school- room ; and he is laying out again a small garden. He appealed to the local Government for indemnification in these losses. Sir H. Smith reiilied, that the matter was referred to the Home Government, and from thence no reply has ever come. Dr. Philip subsequently applied to the Governor for redress, and received the same unsatis- factory answer. I imagine no payment in money will be made as compensation. Possibly, a grant in land could have been obtained, but of this the Missionary would feel veiy jealous, lest the acceptance of it should compromise his disinterestedness, and with that his usefulness, among the natives. Kaffirs, it may be easily supposed, would not look with a very friendly eye on a teacher who would seem to them to be enriching himself by the spoliation of their lands. The Government ought unquestionably to have j)aid a fair amount for the property they obtained from a British subject. They did so in some other cases, and no reason exists why they have not done so in this. A large number of the Cape Corps attend service in Mr. Brownlee's rustic chapel. The service with them is conducted in the Dutch language : at the close of that service the Kaffir congregation assembles, and Mr. Brown- lee preaches in their native language. They assemble again early in the afternoon. The Sunday I was there, thei"e might have been about 150 persons present during each of the three services. They appeared attentive and interested. Mr. Brownlee's church consists of about forty members. It may be mentioned, as some illustration of COLONKL MACKINNON. 101 the desire of the people for intellectual improvement, that they take in ahont fori y copies of some religious newspapers or magazines, printed at the Wesleyan Mission Press, under the care of the Rev. J. Appleyard, of King William's Town. I called on the Rev. J. Appleyard, Wesleyan Missionary at King William's Towai, and had great pleasure in accom- panying him over the Society's printing estahlishment, under his effective superintendence. It is on a large and highly respectable scale. Its whole appearance and man- agement appeared to me to do great credit to the zeal, ability, and business-like habits of JMr. Ajj^ileyard. I found several natives employed in its various departments, as compositors and pressmen. No small step this, in the progress of civilization ; instead of the assagai, the type — instead of the club, the roller. A Missionary printing establishment in the midst of a heathen j^opulation is a fountain of life, whose waters carry purity and salvation wherever they flow. This establishment in Kafifraria, the London Society's at Kuruman for the Bechuanas, the Paris Society's in the Bassuto Country, the American Society's at Natal, and another at Beyrout, were to me scenes of in- describable and imperishable interest, such as I would not have relinquished for all the charms of the scenery whicli I enjoyed during my whole tour. At the time of my visit to Mr. Apjjleyard's establishment he was carrying his "Kaffir Grannnar" through the press. This he has since completed. It is published in a hand- some volume, and reflects much honour on Mr. Appleyard "s attainments as a scholar, and his extensive acquaintance; with the Kaffir language. It constitiitcs a ^aluable addi- tion to the literary labours connected with modern Protest - ant Missions. During my visit to this town, I waited on Lieutenant. Colonel Mackinnon, the Commissioner, and found him courteous and friendly. He strongly recommended estab- lishing a mission among the peo])le of Umliala, a chief wlio resides near the Kei Piiver. His own opinion ol' the 10"2 MOUNT COKE — STATE OF ]'L\FriIlLAND. existing state of affairs in Kaffirlaud was favourable; he thought the system was working well at present, that all was tranquil, and that there were no indications of a change. Thefts, however, were becoming rather more numerous, and which in part might be accoimted for by the extreme poverty of the people. Owing to the late w^ar, and the present drought, all were impoverished. I visited the Wesleyan Station at Mount Coke, under the superintendence of the Rev. Mr. Impey, aided by Mr. Hewitson (late of the Natal Mission of the Church of England, under Mr. Owen), now secular manager of the Institution. I met there also Mr. Sargent, on his way from Wesleyville to East London, mouth of the Buffalo, where the Wesleyan Society intended forming a principal station, and from whence Wesleyville might be supplied with a catechist. On my way thither we called at Fort ^Murray, w here I passed half an hoxu* with Captain Maclean, Commissioner to the 'Slambie Tribe. Mr. C. Brownlee (son of our Missionary), Assistant Commissioner to the Gaika Tribe, visited King William's Town in the course of the day, and with him I had also an opportunity of much conversation respecting the Kaffirs and Kaffirland. " Mount Coke" promises to be an important Missionaiy Station. The land is being cultivated, a large space is also being laid out in building-lots, and square native houses wall be built on it. A good school-room is built, and on the walls hang large maps for the instruction of the native pu^Dils. At present they ai'e veiy few, but more are shortly expected. Nearly all Avith whom I have hitherto conversed, speak cautiously yet hopefully of Kafiirland. Politically, they said, the people were subdued to the power of the British Government. British authority was thought to be para- mount, and likely to remain so, if the existing system were continued without intern;ption, and permitted to work itself well. Troops, it was added, were stationed in suffi- cient numbers to keep the people in check. Commissioners JAN TZATZOE. 103 and Assistant Commissioners jealously watch all proceed- ings on the part of the natives, and a Native Kathr Police was also employed. Still, with all this caution, it is said the Kaffirs are obtaining hu'ge quantities of fire-arms and powder, which, though prohibited, are smuggled in by traders, and introduced to a great extent. It is highly probable, too, that the chiefs, long familiar with supreme and independent power in the country, bear with extreme mortification the present state of things, and would avail themselves, if an opportunity offered, of any means that occurred to regain their waning authority. Some of them are quite reduced in circumstances and impoverished. ]\Iacomo, a wreck through intemperance, has resigned his authority to his sons. Botman, also, has but little power left. The peoi:)le have been severe losers by the war, and some think could not easily be induced to try its chances again; besides which, many of them, as more intelligent, and more thoroughly under the influence of Christian prin- ciple and Christian instruction than the rest, would de- cididly oppose a renewal of the war. Accompanied by Mr. Brownlee and his son, IMr. C. Brown- lee, I rode over to see Jan Tzatzoe and bis family. He resides about four miles distant from the town, and has a fine piece of land, which he is cultivating. He has one or two wagons and spans of oxen. He has also rebuilt a cottage, and though he lost some property by the late war, his temporal circumstances are now better than they were before the war. He came over to see me on Monday morning at King William's Town, and i had then a long conversation with him. But I fear he still retains much of the " apathetic" character that belongs to the native, — the want of an internal spring of action, in pur- suing what is good and noble. He committed a blunder in the business of the Kaffir attack on Fort Peddie ; he was wrong in taking any part in it, tliough perliaps it sliould be stated tbat as an inferior chief lie was acting only under the orders of his superior chief, and tliut he retired from lOi MR. ROSS— I'ERIE. tlie Fort as speedily as possible. To this affair it was, 1 presume, that Sir Harry referred when, reproaching him at the close of the war, and in the presence of the people and chiefs, he somewhat miceremoniously called him a " fool," — a sufficient reason, as Jan Tzatzoe laconically observed, for his not offering any opinion on the state of affairs which His Excellency the Governor had rather tauntingly asked him to give. From Jan Tzatzoe we proceeded to "Pei'ie," a Missionary Station, under the care of Mr. Ross of the Free Church. He has been many years in the country, and speaks with much caution as to his expectations of success among the people, and as to the prospective tranviuillity of the country. He deei:)ly laments the injurious and counteractive character of the influence exercised among the natives by the Euro- pean population generally. Many of this class come to the neighbourhood of his station to fetch timber from the ad- joining forest, and who are not only habitual drunkards, but who take pains to induce the people to take intoxicating liquors also, and in some instances fatally succeed. I left King William s Town in my wagon, and, accom- panied by Mr. Brownlee, proceeded to Mr. Birt's Station, about ten miles to the north-east. It is sometimes called " Yellow Woods" — from the name of a neighbouring stream, and which is so called from the vicinity of many fine yellow-wood trees. The place has been named " Peel Yale," and is so marked in the maps. The country is exceedingly beautiful, even now, in this season of the year, when all is dry and parched for want of rain, — it is enchanting, and much more must it be so in the rainy season. Hill, dale, valley, ravine, and forest, constitute the variety of the scenery. As this is a Station recently formed in connexion Avith the Society, it may not be vmsuitable to give a brief sketch of the circumstances under which it was formed. I give this principally from the pen of Mr. Birt himself. At the com- mencement of the Kaffir war in 1846, a Station, called the MK. BIHT S STATION. 105 Umxelo, began by Mr. Birt in 1840, was broken up. It had not been without success. About fifty native members of the Mission, and their families, accompanied the Missionary when he retired on account of the war within the colonial boundaries. They were considerably scattered through the colony during the protracted war ; but by the time peace was proclaimed, about half of them collected again, and were very desirous of entering Kaffirland. The land they formei'ly occupied was now taken from the Kaffirs and annexed to the colony; this was, therefore, no longer a home for them, for they were of one mind with ]\Ir. Birt, tliat it was desirable to settle again somewhere within Kaffirland, that their InfiHence miglit not be lost upon their ou-n nation. Mr. Birt was at that time pastor of a newly-formed church and congregation in Fort Beaufort, of which he had undertaken the charge while he was shut out of Kaffirland ; and it was not till July in that year that he could move into Kaffirland, in consequence of there being no minister to relieve liim of his pastoral duties in Fort Beaufort. The Imidonge tribe, among whom Mr. Birt laboured while at the Umxelo, were very desirous of his settling again among them ; but as no spot could be found in their locality sufficiently suitable, that would justify the formation of a new station, he was compelled to look elsewhere. It was to the river Nicemera that Mr. Birt looked, on account of its superior advantages for cultivation ; and, the present site having been fixed upon, in the midst of a large tract of land called, after the lamented statesman, Peel Valley (and being now relieved of his pastoral duties), he gave notice that he would remove thither. Only nine men were willing to go witli him, there being a lurking prejudice against this part of the country, just because it is a different country and climate from that which they had been accustomed to. A good report, however, very soon brouglit in all tliat were desirous of settling in Kaffirland. Mr. Birt was so fully awai-c of llic iiiipoi'tanrc of having such a nucleus to commence with, in the midst of a Kafiir- 106 Mr.. liirrr's station'. land population ; and he knew also the value of many of them so well, as evangelists among their countrymen, that he considered no difficulty too great, that could he sur- mounted, in order to accomplish his ohject ; — and in this he has not been disappointed. The first thing the j)eople did was to erect a temporary cottage, of raw hrick, for the Missionary and his family. They then set about building for themselves square cottages; but the want of a house for the worship of God was so much felt, that they agreed to lay that work aside and com- mence a chapel; — and on the Jstof January, 1849, they entered a forest, six miles distant, for the purpose of hewing down wood for its erection. This was set about with a most commendable zeal and unanimity, seldom equalled ; and certainly, considering their low circumstances, truly surprising. This chajDel, forty feet by eigliteen and twenty by eighteen, of T shape, with a porch in front forming a vestry, stands as a noble monument of the voluntary principle. Money was collected from a few friends in King William's Town and elsewhere, for the sawn timber, doors, windows, pulpit, &c. ; so that the building was presented to the Society complete, free of any expense whatever. The chapel being finished, and publicly opened in June, capable of containing 260 persons, the people commenced the building of their cottages ; — but this is hard work for the poor people. Still, however, many of them are completed, and others nearly so. No good season has been enjoyed since the establishment of this Mission ; but this year, IboO, is truly depressmg, — not a grain of seed yet ploughed in. The earth is parched, and the season for sowing is going past, at least so far as millet is concerned, which is the principal food of the countiy. This is truly appalling, — but their trust is in God. The congi'egation has been generally good, and has amounted to an average of two hundred. Some of the natives, including head men of villages, have abolished all heathenism in their localities, and send their children to YOUNG men's class AGRICULTURAL EFFORTS. 107 the Mission school with the utmost regularity. About sixty-live children attend the daily school, under a native master. Another school, which contains thirty-four, is under a Eui'opean master, where they acquire the rudi- ments of English. In the Sunday-school, eighty young persons and about thirty adults attend, instructed by twelve teachers. There are fifty members in the church, some of whom act as evangelists in the suiTOunding neighbour- liood ; and they have adopted the liberal resolution of sup- porting one of their number at a distance from the sta- tion, as a teacher and schoolmaster, subject to Missionary control, but to be supported oitireli/ by themselves. A class of from twelve to fifteen young men happened to be present at Peelton during my visit, and added much to the interest I felt on the occasion. They belong to the different ]\Iissionary stations among the Kaffirs ; they are members of churches ; they are making a stand against those customs and practices of their countrymen that are evil, or which, though not really evil in themselves, are associated with circumstances that are so. Some of these young men, it is hoped, may become teachers and evan- gelists. They meet in rotation at the different stations, keep minutes in English of their pjroceedings, unite in prayer with one another, and exhort each other to stedfastness, improvement, and usefulness. They all attended Mr. Birt's family worship on the morning 1 met them, and which I was requested to conduct in the English language. This gave me an opportunity of addressing them. I read the twelfth chapter to the Romans, and took occasion to press various duties on them as there urged by the apostle, and which 1 thought were specially adapted to their cir- cumstances. I walked witli Mr. Birt, in tlie course of the morning, to see the plouglicd lands, and tbe plantations of the people on the station. Here are all the signs of industry and im- provement, and the peo^jle are themselves evidently begin- ning to appreciate their advantages. Several liouses, of a 108 CLASS OF NATIVK WOMKX. very convenient and comfortable structure, are in course of erection, consisting of poles and plaster (wattle and dab). These Avill supersede the native circular huts. A large quantity of land is capable of cultivation, and many Kathr families may be encouraged to come and locate themselves here. Mr. Birt is leading out a stream, to irrigate a piece of land near his residence, part of which will be made into a garden. Under his instructions, some of the people raise vegetables, and dispose of them for their own benefit in King William's Town. They seem only to require temporary help, and friendly encouragement, and in a short time there will be an industrious, intelligent, and prosperous community here. The more such communities can be formed and fostered, the more facilities are created for the diffusion of the Gospel, and the sounder the guaran- tee for the continuance of peace in the country. Mrs. Birt has a class of native women ; they work under her instructions, and make various articles of dress, which are sold in the colony, and by the produce of which, they w^ere intending to defray the expenses of the erection of a school-house on the station, where their children might be instructed. About twenty women were present the after- noon I visited the class ; all were comfortably dressed in European clothing, and appeared sensible, diligent, and sober-minded women. I gave them a brief address, with the view of encouraging them in their laudable efforts, and Mr. Birt kindly acted as my interpreter. I distributed some articles among them, which I had brought from England, kindly supplied by friends there, and wished I could have supplied their great want of needles ; but I am sure that many ladies in England would most gladly do so, if they knew how much they were needed, and by what means they could forward them,* How easily and how extensively the benevolence and intelli- * The Secretaries of the London Missionary Society, Blomfield- street, Finsbury, will readily take charge of gifts of this kind, and which are always acceptable at Missionary stations. ANECDOTE OF A KAFFIR YOUNG WOMAN. 109 gence of England may promote the improvement of these native tribes, it is impossible to calculate. Our super- fluities could supply all their necessities, and their eleva- tion would be a reward poured into our bosoms. While conversing one day with Mr. Birt, he related to me a very pleasing instance of the firm, but gentle and forgiving temper of a Kaffir young woman. She had re- nounced her Kaffir dress and heathen customs, put on European clothing as a sign of the change, and attended instruction. Her brother, still a heathen, fetched her to accompany him to a heathen dance. She refused. He fetched a stick, and threatened he would compel her to accompany him. He beat her, tore off her clothes, and again beat her till the stick broke. She never winced, nor uttered a cry, nor a word of reproach. He went to procure another stick ; native women interposed and rescued her — they thought she had suffered enough. He then covered her with some heathen dress, and then she wept and sobbed bitterly, as though she was returned back to heathenism. "Why didn't you cry before?" said her brother ; " when I beat you, you Avere silent ; now I dress you, you weep!" Some time rolled by, and the brother came again to visit her. He would not enter the hut ; he was, perhaps, asliamed of his conduct ; he might have met with reproach. No; he mistook her; he had not yet learned Christianity. She could forgive ; she went out and met him at the entrance, gave him her hand, and with it a sister's kiss. That subdued him. Woman's tender- ness conquered this untamed Kaffir, and she continued her attendance on the instructions of the Missionarv. I called on her in ^company with Mr. Birt. I adminMl her for her patient and amiable spirit. I wished her ninnv blessings, and I was delighted to leave witli her a triiliii._^r present as a token of my esteem. C H A P T E E V. GERMAN MISSION STATION, BETHEL MADOOR's STATION, FREEMANTON REMEDY AGAINST AVARICE — TREATMENT OF MADOOR TAMBOOIvIES KAFFIR ARGUMENT, aVIT-RENT LETTERS FROM MADOOR SHILOH, MORAVIAN STATION SELF-SUPPORTING LAND CULTI- VATED ATTACKED IN 1847, MAJOR HOGG OUR ALLIES PROCEED TOWARDS THE KAT RIVER MESSRS. READ LETTERS — SNOW STORM COLD night's ACCOMMODATION ROADS DIFFICULT SPLENDID VIEW WAR— ARRIVAL AT PHILIPTON MRS. READ, It was niv intention to have j)roceeded at once to the " Kat River Settlement,"' on leaving Peelton ; but some im- portant out-stations having been formed by Messrs. Eead in Tambookie land, they m-ged me to pay these a visit before coming to Philipton. On leaving Peelton, I ac- cordingly took a northerly direction, and reached, in the course of the first evening, the German Mission Station, — "Bethel," eighteen miles north of Mr. Bh-t's. Mr. Birt had accompanied me in my wagon. We were cordially welcomed and entertained by the brethren at Bethel. Messrs. Lieflfeldt and Korpf. This station was in a veiy flourishing condition pi-evious to the Avar of 1846 ; it is now only just beginning to reAive. The situation is ex- tremely advantageous ; there is a noble stream of water running by the Institution, and it is surrounded by extensive lands, capable of cultivation. The former chapel, dweUing- houses, smithery, &c., were all burned down during the war. The Missionaries at present are all actively employed in erecting tolerably substantial cottages. A chapel is built, J MAD OOR's STATION. Ill water-courses are laid out, gardens are planted, the natives are ploughing, and things begin to Avear an improved and encouraging aspect. But all this is yet incipient. The people are extremely poor. This part of the country being on the high-road through Kaffirland, suffered more severely from the war than many other places ; the people fled to save their lives, and the houses which they left, cattle, com, and all they possessed, fell into the hands of the troops. It occupied me several days during the w^eek to reach the Bushmen's Settlement in Madoor's country. ]\Ir. Birt and Mr. Croft accompanied me some distance from Bethel. ]\Iessrs. Lieffeldt and Rein (a Missionary associated with ^Ir. Scholtshuis at Itemba), accompanied me as far as the Kolong. I reached the banks of the Tomaas River, a con- siderable stream, running east and south-east of the Wind- vogel Berg, and afterwards crossed the Zwarte Kei. Mr. James Read of the Kat River met me, by appointment, and Ave soon aftenvards fell into company with ]\Ir. Calderwood and Mr. Shepstone, interpreter to Government for the Gaika tribes, who was accompanying him. Next day, after out-spanning and resting three times, we reached about nine o'clock in the evening the kraal or village of Madoor. As this spot is not laid down in any map yot publislied, I do not know its exact distance from King William's Town. It cannot be less than 120 miles. There is nothing in this part of the countrj-^ to interest a traveller. It consists of dreary and mountainous elevations and depressions of interminable sandstone, relieved, occasionally, by basaltic dykes. I saw no wood, nor smiling vegetation of any kind. It seemed to be a locality just similar to that which John Campbell described, when he said to Mr. Motfat, " It would need that a man should have a good pair of spectacles to find a blade of grass here ! " The population is exceod- ingly spare, and the cattle extremely few. Madoor's station consists of a few ]\\\t<. Tlicre is a small chapel also, which was built before the late war, and which was not destroyed by theTambookies. Madoor took })art with 112 MADOOr's STATION. the Government against the Tambookies and the Kaffirs. He has about 300 men under his jurisdiction, including Bushmen, Hottentots, Fingoes, &c., and several coming into his country from the neighbouring tribes. With him they hoped to find an asylum, when in difficulty them- selves, on account of charges of witchcraft brought against them among their ot\ti peojile. Madoor is pleased with these accessions to his j)eople, as they not only add to his importance as a petty chief, but, by augmenting his popula- tion, form a greater security against the occasional inva- sions and occupation of part of his country, by the tribes in his vicinity, who trespass there for the sake of the grass and water that may be found. He is a man of about sixty years of age. His family is gi'own up. Some are living on the same spot with him. They appear a delicate and feeble race. He wears an old regimental great-coat, and a military cap not improved by long service. He told me " he was glad to see me, and yet ashamed to be found in such poor circumstances, and that he had not made gi'eater progress." The war has been a great interruption to his people. He is now ploughing and cultivating a good piece of land. The valley in the vicinity of his village is well watered, and could be very extensively imgated. INIadoor knows but little of Dutch. He speaks cliiefly in the Bush- man language. My conversation with him was conducted through Mr. James Bead, who conveyed it in colloquial Dutch to a daughter of Madoor, and she to her father in his ovvai dialect, which is identified with the Hottentot language. A considerable number of children came to our wagon while we were outspanning in the course of our journey to this place, all of whom had been deprived of the first joint of the third finger on the right hand. This had been done in compliance with an established custom of the country, and to prevent, it was said, the children from becoming avaricious ! I question whether this remedy would be found effectual in Europe. I am not conscious of any great elation in remarking FBEEM ANTON. 113 here, en passant, that, having paid MaJoor a visit, he wished his village should be called after my name, and accord- ingly, it has been designated "Freemanton." How long it may be destined to sm-vive, I know not. Many greater names have perished in the history of the world, and, I "guess," that, amidst the changes now transpiring among the native tribes of South Africa, Freemanton will not long be remembered. There is no dukedom nor earldom attached to it, nor any estate for the advantage of my " heirs and descendants." I dare say I might have obtained a few acres if I had asked for them, but I was not ambitious of the honour. However, humour apart, I was glad to find here a rem- nant of a race once numerous in South Africa, though now rapidly becoming extinct. The few of them that remain seem to prefer their present precarious mode of subsistence, living in the forests and the rocks, and procuring game by means of their poisoned arrows, to any other manner of life. To them, it is free and independent and sweet. It is with difficulty they can be prevailed on to abandon this nomadic, wandering, not to say lawless, mode of life, and settle down to the quiet cultivation of the lands as peaceful villagers. For himself, however, Madoor told me that, ])assionately fond as he was of hunting game, he had not even once been out since he came and took up his abode in the vil- lage, subsequently to the late war. He regularly attends the sen'ices at the chapel, and encourages his jjeople to do so, and displays as much interest in all that pertains to their social improvement, the cultivation of their land, and their building better houses, as could reasonably be ex- pected from a man trained as he has been. This Bushman Station was commenced about ten years ago. A benevolent project was at that time formed l>y the Missionaries and their friends at l'liili|it()ii, in (lie Kat Piiver Settlement, to try and colbu-t some of those Jiush- jnen from the mountain tops and fastnesses, and to jjersuade I 114 FEEEMANTON. them, if possible, to locate themselves in some suitable part of the country, where they might be instracted and become a civilized community. Parties went in search of them, and, succeeding in their plan, brought them to the spot now designated Freemanton. Two native teachers were then sent to reside with them, one as their religious instructor, the other to assist in conducting their seculai" affairs, teaching them how to dig and plough and sow their lands, and to build their huts. These two men having re- ceived a simple outfit, together with a plough bought at the expense of the good people at Philipton, and having also been lent a span of oxen, they set out on their mission — their praiseworthy enterprise. A school Avas formed consisting of seventy children ; a Christian church has been formed and several Bushmen, Fingoes, and other natives have been added to it. During the war of 1846-7, the people of the station, feeble as they may seem, and forgotten as their services may now be, were able to render considerable service to the colony. They succeeded in repelling the enemy from that quarter, in doing which they sacrificed nearly all their property, and received in return the warm commendations of the Governor. While conversing on one occasion with Madoor, I asked him what had formerly been his thought and feelings as to God and the world around him, and a future state, before he became acquainted with jNIr. Read, the first Missionaiy whom he knew, and who has been his steady friend. The poor old man unaffectedly rejilied, that he had had no thoughts and no knowledge whatever. That, as to God, he had heard indeed that there was a man up above, somewhere, up in heaven, — but who, or what he was, how he came there, and w^hat he did, he never knew nor in- quired. He said, " I was as one of the wild beasts around me ; I was fully employed in finding food here or there, and supposed that when we died, that was the utter end of ovir existence. And now," said he, " it seems to me VISITS AT M.VDOOB's STATION. 115 wonderful that Mr. Kead should find me, — in some way ; I cannot tell how or why ; and now I am here residing in the village, my family and people round me, my land cul- tivated, and we having the great privilege of hearing God's Word, and our children instructed." Umjeki, an Amaponda Chief, came with some of his people to pay me a visit. He had desired to be informed when I an-ived, and Madoor had sent him word imme- diately. He had evidently been a man of powerful stature, — almost gigantic. He was formerly a renowned warrior, and an exceedingly j)'>'oud man. It seems that one of his sons has acted the part of an Absalom, stolen the hearts of the people, and obtained the supreme authority over his tribe. This has humbled the warrior, and he is now a quiet and subdued sort of being, — though capable, I should think, of being roused and of acting a fierce part again, if called out by circumstances. He expressed his earnest desire to have a teacher appointed to his station. I wished our funds would enable us to supply such men with Mis- sionaries or native teachers. One of the people who met me here at the village was a native named Makabana. I hoped to meet him again at Philipton. He is a man of fine character, decision, in- telligence, and usefulness. He supports himself by his industry, but devotes much of his time to the instruction of the people. He is a Fitcani, and belonged to the tribe that was scattered and destroyed by the Mantatees and by the colonial Government. It is said to have been a powerful and warlike tribe. The kraal in which their soldiers met was so large as to take five spear-throws to reach across it. Women were not permitted to enter it, and the people, as they passed near, were required to stoop ; none were permitted to walk by erect. He said their suf- ferings were sometimes so severe, from the dreadful famine to which they were exposed after the ravages of war, and the I0S.S of their crops, that tliey were reduced to the hor- rible necessity of cannibalism. They first devoured all the no CANNIBALISM. dogs they could find, and then human heings. He said, they never ate tlie members of their own famihes, but they exchanged them Avith one another for the purpose of devouring them, just as they would exchange sheep. He is quite aware of the fact that some of the Bassutos have also been cannibals, but he thinks that, in both cases, the revolting custom has arisen out of the pressure of famine, and that such famine has usually been the result of devas- tating wars. Madoor's comitry, so far as I could make it out from the descriptions given me of its natural boundaries of streams and mountains, and the distances, by time, to reach them respectively, Avould seem to be about fifty miles in length, north-east by south-west, and twenty-five miles in breadth. The village lies midway in this distance, seventeen miles from the Hinduwee stream, and eight from the mountain range that separates Madoor's country from that of Umtikaka. The whole of this part of the country is extremely mountainous, consisting of sand- stone in horizontal strata, the upper portions of which have been so worn and washed away, as to give the hills the appeai'ance of terraces, or hills covered with terraced walks rising one above another, and which, if susceptible of cultivation, might be converted into hanging gardens of great magnificence. In the absence of springs and fountains, such a destiny is not, I fear, in reserve for Africa, dm-ing (at any rate) the present dispensation of our globe. The boundaiy lines which I have just alluded to, are, I understand, considerably xcitliin those originally marked out by Mr. Cole, when acting on behalf of the British Government, in -the year 1848. Those lines have been subsequently altered by His Excellency Sir Hariy Smith, the present Governor, though without any communication, it is affirmed, with Madoor or his people. All this comitry is now, in fact, proclaimed as within the colony, and a demand of £1 a year has been made on the head of each TREATMENT OF MADOOR. 117 family, as a quit-rent; a demand which they cannot meet, as they have 710 money, and but a s?naU quantity of cattle. The cattle, if distrained and driven to a distance, where a market might be found for them, would then probably be valued at not more than i'l each, and thus the people would not only be impoverished and disheartened, but ruined and exasperated, and forced to abandon tlie country, and seek some home farther to tlie north. Thus a very serious calamity would again occur to the colony, by leaving it exposed to other attacks in this quarter, from Kaffirs and Tambookies. His Excellency's policy in reference to Madoor appears, I must confess, to me, neither just, generous, nor politic. It is not generous, for Madoor had served the colony ivell, and rendered it very valuable aid during the last war, by assisting to preserve that portion of the colonial border from invasion, and checking the Kaffirs and Tambookies. His people gave their services to the Government for three years, having only rations and no pay, impoverishing themselves and their families in the meantime. To deprive him of his country now, is a poor recompense for such important sendees ; and to proclaim his country British territory, part and parcel of the colony, without consultation, or obtaining his consent, is equivalent to depriving him of it. I apprehend this is only a first step towards his expulsion, and that of his people, either by fraud or. force. Of course, I do not mean direct fraud ; but I mean, tbat, as in other cases, some scheme will be employed by interested parties, who will get permission to occupy some portions of the land, then ultimately claim them, excite some quarrels, and at last get their claims sanctioned, and the natives dispossessed, crushed, and ruined. I do not understand wliat may liave been the (Jovcrnor's reasons for these measures ; but so far as I can learn, tbey were pressed on him by some of the Dutch emigrants, at the time when the Boers in the north were occasioning so much uneasiness in the colony. Sir Huri-y Siuitli, to 118 QUIT- RENT conciliate the Boers in the south, promised, it is stated, to add this country of ISIadoor to the. colony, and, it is re- ported, the Tambookie country also. The expectation of the Boers in the south would of course be, that ultimately they might get possession of these territories. All this only shows still more forcibly that the measure itself was an unjust one. And for the reasons which I have already stated, in reference to the defence of the colony from Tambookies and Kaffirs, the measure must be pronounced impolitic. To a stranger this may not be obvious. It might seem that, to have the country occupied by Boers, would be as good a defence to the colony, as to allow it to remain in the possession of these very partially civilized communities of natives. But far from it. The Boers require an immense tract of country for each family. Twenty or thirty families would divide among them the whole of Madoor's country. AtMiereas, at least two hundred families of natives would be satisfied with it, and be amply sustained by it. In the former case, also, the larger pro- perties of the famiers would be a temptation to the Kaffir invader, and the amount of resistance so much the smaller, on account of the very limited number of the inhabitants, and the distances at which they live from one another. The annual tax, or quit-rent of £'1, demanded of Madoor and his people for each family, is not imposed on the tribes of Kaffirs, the Gaikas, who have lately been at war with the colony, although their country is also brought under British jurisdiction. Their country- is claimed and designated " British Kaffraria." They have, ^j^r/ifl/js uith some show of justice, been deprived of supreme authority there, as the result of the late war ; though questions might arise, even then, as to the aggressive party, and the real causes of that war. At any rate, though the Kaffirs may have done something to forfeit their countiy by the war, Madoor had not. Yet the latter is put under a tax, while the former is exempted. No wonder the Kaffirs readily boast of the advantages which they gain, and taunt LETTERS FROM MADOOR. 119 the Other party with the position in which they are placed. '"You sat still; you took no part in the war against the colony," say the Kaffirs; " or you fought on the side of the colony ; and see, you both lose your country and have a tax imposed on you. We fought — and here are the hand- some presents which the English have made us ! If you wish the English to be your friends, you must fight them." I have received two letters on these subjects, one from Madoor himself, and one from his principal people. I told Madoor that I could not make him great promises of aid, that I did not wish to raise any sanguine expecta- tions of what I could do for him, but that I would do what I could, both on my return to the seat of Government in Cape Town, and, if necessary, on my return to England. The poor old man seemed gi-atified and encouraged, and said "his heart was made larger and easier." He thanked me for my visit, my sympathy, and kind expressions. " But," said he, "when officers come from the Government to bring matters of dispute before me, it always makes my heart feel sad, and leaves a cloud over me." Translation of a Letter from Madoor and his People, addressed to Rev. J. J. Fkeeman, and dated " Freemayiton, 29th Atig. 1849. " Much respected Sir and F.vther, " It is ■with the greatest pleasure that we bid you welcome to Free- manton, on your arrival from England, and we hope that your coming to the Churches of South Africa will be a blessing. " Before the war we had began to be very prosperous, but now through the war we are altogether ruined. All the inhabitants here were obliged to leave evei-ything they had, and to help the colonial Government against the Kaffirs. We were nearly tliree years in the service of Government, and although many promises were made to us, none of them have been fulfilled. This land belongs to the liushmen, and the British Government has recognized it as such. But now, we know not how it is, but Bushmen and Hottentots living here under Madoor are required to pay £1 each, yearly, to the Government. This law, if carried into exx'cution, among the Bushmen, Hotten- tots, Fingoes, and Kaffirs here, will entirely ruin them, and, more- 120 LETTERS FROM MADOOR. over, will drive them away. Hoping that you, sir, besides attending to ovu' spiritual alfuirs, will feel for us in relation to our secular affairs, we remain with the greatest respect, your obedient servants," (Signed by Madoor, as Captain, two Field Cornets, Mr. UUbricht, and several others.) Translation of a Letter from Madoor to Rev. J. J. Freeman, dated " Freeinanton, Sept. 1, 1849. "Much respected Sir, "I wish to state my circumstances respecting this country, which was occupied by my forefathers. Of late years the Tambookies have got possession of a large portion of this land, but not the part of it Avhich I am occup"ying. " In the year 1837, the teachers and friends at Kat River brought us, by means of God's Word, out of the ravines and rocks, and they collected us in this place. This Word of God is received by many of my people. The people of Kat River have supplied us with ploughs and oxen, vegetables and clothmg, sent to us in wagons ; and some of these things even came from England. For all that which I possess I am indebted to the gospel and the Government. \Vlro had ever thought that Bushmen would learn and become civilized ? but ' God takes the poor from the dust, and sets the solitai-y in families.' The Lord hath done much for us. "In 18-16, the Government sought, through the medium of our instructors, that we should assist the English against the Kaffirs, and be luiited. We did so ; we left our all, even without wages or cloth- ino- for our wives and childi-en. We have for nearly three years served the Government, and the Government promised to do all that was right to me, and to secure my lands. But now, the Government has taken my land in [meanmg, within the colonial bovuidary], with- out saving anything to me, "and has besides imposed a tax of £1 on every head of a family, which sum is so great, that it will drive back again my poor people ; because, as I have above 300 people under me, they would have to pay £300 yearly. The Government cannot raise this tax among the Kaffirs, because it would stu- up war ; but we, and the Tambookies, and Fingoes, and Hottentots, who were on the side of the Government, and because we are mild, are made to endure the tax. I hope that you, su-, wiU lay to heart our cir- cumstances, for the Society is oiir father and special friend. " Your servant, " Madoor." ANECDOTE OF A LION. 121 Both these letters, it will be seen, contain toucliing ap- peals to the equity and hnmanitij of Government. Promises made, and not fulfilled! — services rendered, and not re- mmierated ! — and £300 a year quit-rent demanded, though not more than £50 could have been obtained had Dutch farmers settled on an equal extent of land ! These things demand inquiry. It is said that some portions of this part of South Africa are still infested by lions. I had not the honour of re- ceiving the attention of any of them during my progress through it. I went with peaceable intentions, and they allowed me to pass quietly. Mr. Gordon Gumming ap- pears to have gone to South Africa with the very pui'pose of waging war on their whole race, and that of their fierce companions of the wild and the forest, and of course he had his share of encounters and hair-breadth escapes. For myself, I can only relate what I heard. From various incidents mentioned, I select the following: — Some short time since three men and a boy were sleeping in the open air, while travelling through Madoor's country. Two of the men were by themselves ; the other man and a boy also by themselves, wrapped uj) in a blanket. While they were asleep, a lion came and walked off" with the two in the blanket ; they effected their escape, and left the mon- ster in the possession of tbeir warm coverlet, and stole back to their companions to give the alarm. While the man was relating the adventure, the lion came and pounced on him, seized him by the neck, and killed him. He had just time to ciy, "Shoot! shoot!" his companions did so — shot the lion in the neck, and destroyed him. Other lions were supposed to be in the neighbourhood, and the surviving two men and boy escaped as fast as they could. They returned next morning to get the body of their companion and inter it, but found that it had been devoured during the night, and the very lion which they had shot had been also devoured by some of his com- panions. 122 SIITI.OII, MORAVIAN STATION — SELF-SUPPORTING. Mr. Read, jun., from Philipton, had been with me during all my visit at Freemanton, and now accompanied me on my way to the Kat River Settlement. We called, during our journey thither, at the Moravian station of Shiloh, on the Klip Plaats River, and spent some little time in looking over, with much gi'atification, that valuable Institution. The locality is admirably adapted for its purposes. A portion of the river is led out through ex- tensive and well-formed water-courses. These irrigate a large tract of countiy. By means of the produce raised, and the profits derived from an excellent corn-mill, not only have all the expenses of the Institution been met, but a considerable surplus has been created, and out of this surplus a neiv Mission station is being formed, near the Windvogel Berg. This illustrates my idea of a self- supporting Institution, and to this scheme I think we must endeavour to bring ours. The quantity of land which is here brought under the plough is veiy great, say from two hundred to three hun- dred acres ; a larger amount, I was informed, than in any other locality in the colony within the same space. Its capabilities are still great. A large proportion of the:>e acres is cultivated for the direct use and benefit of the Institution of Shiloh. The people cultivate the rest for themselves. The gardens are large, and raise a great quantity of vegetables for use and sale ; and the orchards are large, and well stocked with choice fruit-trees. There are eight hundred people altogether on the Insti- tution, under the charge of the Missionaries. They have, as usual, at their stations, a good carpenter's shop and smithery. The corn-mill, and expense of leading out the stream for its supply, cost about six thousand rix dollars, say ^£450. The station was commenced about twenty years ago, at the suggestion of General Bourke, at that time Governor of the colony. The countiy had been at that period in- fested with robbers from neighbouring territories, who ATTACKED IN 1847 MAJOR HOGG. 123 made incui'sions on the colonists, and it was proposed to establish a military post. But the suggestion of trying a Missionary station instead was adopted. The Moravians were applied to. The Eev. Mr. Halbeck, of Genadendal, visited the spot, and approved of it. Government gave £•200 towards the expenses of commencing it, and now it presents an inviting and most encouraging aspect. Its chief drawback appears to be a want of wood. There is no forest at hand. Hence the difficulty the people expe rience in building houses. Timber is expensive. The gi-eat majority live in huts. Several houses, however, are built, and have the appearance of comfort and prosperity. The chapel, school, and Mission-houses, have an air of comfort and respectability. There are about eighty com- municants. Services are held in the Dutch and Kaffir languages. The people consist of Kaffirs, Tambookies, Fin- goes, Hottentots, and apprentices. The station was attacked during the war of 1847, by Mapassa and his people. They were repulsed. Captain, now Major Hogg, was stationed there with troops.* Madoor and his people were there also, as our allies, under the command of Mr. Jos. Read. No fighting took place at the village itself, although there were some engagements in the neighbouring country. An Englishman and some natives were killed and barbarously mutilated. The former was found to have received at least a hundred wounds on his body. I have stated above, that an attack was made by the enemy on the station of Shiloh, in 1847, and that Mr. Joseph Read, with the i)eople of Madoor, were greatly ser- viceable in defending it. As Mr. Read had been up to that period in connexion with our Society as a teacher, though not an ordained Missionary, I think it only due to him to insert here his letter in explanation of the case, * This is one of the two gentlemen appointed as Assistant Com- missioners to aid Sir Harry Smith, at the (Jape, in relation to Kaffir affairs. See sijeech of Lord Gray : House of Lords, 20th May, 1851. 124 MR. JOS. READ — LEITERS. Avitli which he favoured me during my late visit. The ac- <'ompanying letters from Sir Andrew Stockenstrom, and the Rev. W. Bonatz, of the Institution at Shiloh, will show also the value they attached to Mr. Read's sei-\'ices, and those of Madoor and his people : — " To Rev. J. J. Freeman. " Philipton, Sept. 1849. " Rev. axd dear Sir, " As the deputation of the London Missionary Society, I beg to lay before you a brief statement of my ease, respecting my accepting the captaincy of the United Bushmen and Hottentot force, and my resigning my connexion ■with the London Missionary Society. "Li the month of April, 18th ult., Ireceived a letter fromMajor Smith, the frontier Commissioner, desiring me to use my influence with the Bushman Chief, Madoor, and his people, and ascertain fi-om them whe- ther they would be -willmg to assist Govermnent against the enemy. On the receipt of this letter, I at once left for the Bushman country, used my influence ^^•ith these people, arranged with them, and moved them into the colony with the least possible delay. Ha\ing brought these people into the colony, I was desired to take the command of them. I at once felt myself in a very difficult position ; these people wotdd serve under no other than myself, and they all resolved, to a man, that rather than serve under any one else, they would at once move to the place from whence they came. They said I had been the means of bringing them into contact with the Government. " Having none of my friends near me to advise with, and as there was a complete panic after the defeat of the troops at Biirnshill, and seeing the determination of the men not to serve under any one else, and not wishing to lay obstacles in the way of Government, which might have proved injuiious at such a crisis, I accepted the command of this force. !My father and brother felt very much concerned at the step I had taken, and wTote to Sir A. Stockenstrom, Bart., who was then Commandant-General, to get me off, or give me a civil appointment in the Burgher force. He thought at that juncture of affairs it would be impolitic as well as unwise to get me off. " It shovdd also be borne in mind, that, not being an ordained Mis- sionary, I was liable to be called out to serve the colony ; and that, had I not accepted the captaincy, in which I could be of ser^ice to the Bushmen, I should have had to serve as a private ; this I was also told. Seeing at once the incompatibility of the two offices, and not wishing my ease to be a precedent, I resigned my connexion with LETTERS. 125 the Society in a letter to Dr. Philip, and desired him to forward a copy of it to the Directors. " Though no longer an accredited agent of the Society, I shall always cherish the greatest respect towards the Du-ectors and con- stituents of the Society, and continue to take a lively mterest in its welfare, contribute towards its support, and aid in any way I can towards its progress. I beg to inclose Major Smith's letter, and a letter from Sir A. Stockenstrom. " I remain, Rev. and dear Sir, your's very obediently, " Joseph Read." Major Smith's Letter. [True Copy.] ''Port Beaufort, April 20, 1846. " Sir,- — I am directed by his Honoiir, the Lievitenant-Governor, to conmiunicate with you respecting the Bushman Chief ^Madoor, whom he is desirous of employing for the defence of the Kat River Settle- ment, in the event of the services of himself and people being attain- able. His Honour, therefore, requests you will, either by yoixrself or through another, ascertam whether Madoor is wiUing to be so em- ployed ; and if he is, arrange with hun to move as early as possible in the direction of the Kat River, where he will receive more definite instructions from Captain Sutton of the Cape Mounted Rifles. " I need scarcely add, that, should the Chief prove himself a faith- ful adherent to the Government, his services will be sure to meet with favourable consideration hereafter. " I have the honour to be. Sir, your most obedient servant, (Signed) " J. S. Smith, Frontier Commissioner." Sir a. Stockenstrom's Letter. [True Copy.] '' December 21, 1846. " My dear Sir, — I have to thank you for your favoirr of the 3rd instant, which you will mainly find answered by my reply to the I)ublic address, and to which I can add, without flattery, that your conduct and services, whUe you were under my command, would do honour to any young man or officer. You have only to adhere 1 riefly to the maxim, that nothing but truth, justice, and honesty is jycrmanent, and with your talents and spirit, you will find yourself at home in any profession. Your juniors, H. Plaatjes, P. UUbricht, 120 SNOW STORM. D. Ilolta, A. Holta, and Matinus Jans, deserve my particular com- mendation, Avith many others, and I hope their serA-ices may reach the Governor's notice, through some iiifiuential channel. I wish you every happiness. I remain, dear Sir, your's very truly, (Signed) "A. Stockenstrom." E.EV. Mr. Bonatz's Letter, [True Copy.] " Shiloh, 8th June, 1849. " My dear Sir — I beg to acknowledge your letter of the 7th inst. I would likewise beg to say, that it is highly pleasing to me to see, by your letter, that the conduct of the Shiloh people, as well as Hot- tentots, as also Fingocs and Tambookies, who have served under you, has proved so satisfactory to you. We feel it our duty to ex- press to you personally, as also to propose our united thanks for all serA-ices they have so faithfuUy performed for the protection of this I^lace. I have also to express to you the thanks of the Bishops of the United Brethren at home, and the Directors of our Society, and to assure you that you -wall live in the remembrance of the Moravians as weU at home as also here, for all you have done so readily for Shiloh, to save it from destruction. ^lay He who is the only giver of all perfect happmess, bless you most abundantly in tliis life, and also in that which is to come. Youi-'s faithfully, "A. BONATZ." We left Shiloh with some hesitation as to the weather: the clouds were gathering, and the wind was high, but on the whole it was thought we might venture, especially as fresh spans of oxen were, we expected, sent forward to meet us. By the time, however, we reached the spot we called the Deep Kiver, in a part of the Winterherg, we found that we could proceed no further. A severe snow storm came on — it was intensely cold, and I had endeavoured to keep myself warm by walking part of the way, but I found it was imprac- ticable. The cold seized my chest, and produced such pain, coughing, and difficulty of breathing, that I was glad to re- sume my seat in the wagon, and WTap myself up, and try to NIGHTS ACCOMMODATION ROADS DIFFICULT. 127 breathe warmth into my benumbed fingers. Mr. Read wisely resolved on remaining where we were ; for, though on a considerable common, and therefore exposed, we found some shelter under huge masses of rock or boulders, such as, in fine weather, would form beautiful objects for sketches from nature, and such as made me wish I pos- sessed the skill of an artist. Our people soon managed to make a fire, and we presently found the comfort of " the beverage that cheers and not inebriates." Here we re- mained for the night, taking the accommodations as we found them — nature's canopy, snow-clad mountains, a pelt- ing storm, and howling winds. Two of our men found a night's lodging, free of charges, in an adjoining cave, where they were serenaded by the lion's roar, but returned to us in the morning quite unharmed, and, I think, unscared. They said they had slept well, and had been quite warm. The rest of our party stowed themselves away in our wagons, and we were thankful to find ourselves undevoured by lions, and all safe and well the next morning. We could not, however, leave our charming hotel very early. Our resting-place had been on high ground, and it was feared the roads would be too slipjiery on our descent to allow the cattle to travel with safety. We set out about half-past ten, and found some parts of the road so extremely difficult, from the melting of the snow, that Mr. Read, my experienced guide, was on the point of sounding a retreat, and directing the wagons back to the spot which we had left. However, we went foi-ward with great caution, and at length safely reached the summit of the hill in tlie Winterberg, or Kat River Mountain, from whence we ob- tained a most commanding, exhilarating, and magnificent view of the whole Kat River Settlement. We looked down on the village of Philipton, and from thence across the country to an amazing distance, inclnding Bothas Hill, which immediately overlooks Graham's Town, aljout sixty miles distant. From this point our party fired four nniskets, 128 SPLENDID VJKW. — RESULTS OF WAR. not as signals of distress, but to announce our approach. We afterwards ascertained that it was just so much powder thrown away, as our shots were not heard.. In fact, our friends had given up all exjiectation of oui* being so near. They had set out on the previous day in a large party to meet us, accompanied by an immense body of the Sunday- school children, but were overtaken by the snow-storm, and returned home most piteously drenched, and concluded that the same storm would probably have detained us a day longer at Shiloh. The sceneiy from the commanding elevation just men- tioned, all the way down to the settlement, is exceedingly imposing. I was much struck with its grandeur and beauty in several points of the descent. At one point I had on my leftlofty mountain-ranges, whose summits were crowned with the snow lately fallen^on the right, the opening and well-wooded and well-watered settlements of the Kat River, ravines rich in vegtation, and fertile valleys in all direc- tions, and then beyond these, extensive ranges of hills and open country stretching away to the horizon. It formed a scene of landscape grandeur fit for a first-rate artist. From an eminence where we stood for a few moments in the course of our descent, we overlooked the settlement of "Willsdale," (so named in honour of the late Miss Wills, of London, long the steady friend of Dr. Philip and his family,) "Wilsonton," (from Thomas Wilson, Esq., of Lon- don,) and "Bruceton," (from J. Bruce, Esq., of India.) Mr. Bead pointed out also " Lushington Vale," and " Eeads- dale." All this settlement contains about from five to seven thousand people. The whole suffered extensively during the late war with the Kaffirs : the native houses were burned, the cattle stolen, and a large amount of property destroyed. These are among the numerous evils that belong to wai', " horrida bella." The payment of troops is a mere item in the account of the losses and miseries of war. It is the individual suffering, loss, ruin, disappointment, and dis- couragement that follow, with innumerable attendant moral ARRIVAL AT PHILIPTON. 129 evils, — laxity of sentiment, general irreligion, exasperated feeling, indulgence and licentiousness, — these corrupt many ; and many in this settlement who had " walked well," turned aside, "making shipwreck of faith and a good conscience." Somewhat fatigued by the journey, I felt thankful to reach Philipton in the course of the evening, and there found, just as I had anticipated, a cordial welcome from our devoted and unfailingly active ]\Iissionary, ]Mr. Eead, and from ah the members of his family. The house was, how ever, at the time a house of mourning. Death had entered it a few days prior to my arrival. Mr. Eead was now a widower, and his children without a mother. The Eev. Mr. Thompson, of Balfour, had delivered an appropriate funeral address at the interment of Mrs. Eead. I thought it had reflected much honouV on the simplicity of her Christian character that, in her last houi-s, she had not only assented to her son James leaving her that he might proceed to meet me, and aid me on myjourney, but calmly took leave of her affectionate son, whom she might naturally have wished to detain, to close her eyelids in death, but begged him to go, and not to suffer her to be an impedi- ment in the way of his rendering any service in the cause of Missions. I Avas struck Avith this little incident. I had never known Mrs. Eead, but I was assm-ed that this afforded but a simple and truthful illustration of her tliou'^litfnl, modest, unobtrusive spirit and deportment through life. And now having brought my tour to this point, and con- ducted my readers to the Hottentot settlement of the Kat Eiver, it may be well to pause and take a brief review of the history of this people and of the settlement itself, especially as we have reached a ci-isis in their condition, and shall have occasion shortly to indicate a calamitous reverse in their circumstances. I propose to devote the two succeed ing chapters to these subjects, — the history of the peoj)le, and the state of the Kat Eiver Settlement. And tlicu, as the 130 ARRIVAT, AT rnir.IPTON. calamitous reverse to which I have alluded, has come over them in connexion with the Kaffir war which is still raging there (May, 1851), I shall devote some space to that most afflictive case, and afterwards proceed with the narrative of my visit to other parts of the colony. CHAPTER VI. RISE AND SPREAD OF CHRISTIANITY AND CIVILIZATION AMONG THE HOT- TENTOTS THE MORAVIAN MISSION OF 1737 APPEALS OF TRAVEL- LERS ON BEHALF OF THE HOTTENTOTS THEIR MILITARY ENROL- MENT MISSIONARY INSTITUTIONS AFTER 1795 COMMISSIONS OF INQUIRY CIRCUIT COURTS ABSENCE OF LAW — 'COMPULSORY SERVICE PERSONAL A'lOLENCE BRITISH SETTLERS IN ALBANY, 1820 COMMISSION OF INQUIRY, 1822 THE 50tH ORDINANCE, OR MAGNA CHARTA OF THE HOTTENTOTS, 1828 KAT RIVER SETTLE- MENT, 1829 PARLIAMENTARY COMMITTEE, 1835-7 — CONDUCT OF THE HOTTENTOTS IN THE KAFFIR WARS, 1835-46 — THEIR SUBSE- QUENT TREATMENT, AND PRESENT CONDITION. From the uniform, and not exaggerated testimony of voyagers to the disadvantage of the Hottentots, that people, towards the close of the last century, had become a pro- verbial type of most degraded humanity. Even those who declared them to he an ill-used people, still repoi'ted in terms of unqualified reproach, of the i-epulsiveness of their persons and habits ; of the almost unintelligible rudeness of their speech ; of their indolence, and general barbarism, without, however, inii)uting to them either ferocious dis- positions or indomitable hostility to strangers; and to this day, eminent continental and American writers may be cited, who, ill-informed upon the recent history of those Cape al)origincs, hold them still to be very little raised above Cape baboons. Nevertheless, individuals among them were long ago remarkable for excellent moral quali- ties, and even for superior mental attainments ; and so 13vJ KISE AND SPREAD OF CHKISTFAXITY. early as in 1737, the Moravian Missionaries had produced material improvements in the condition and character of a considerable number of them. The Moravian Institution of that day, at the famous Genadendal, like those of all missionai'y societies, provided homes for the homeless, schools for the young, vai'ious mechanical occupations for the ignorant, the knowledge, the consolations, and the hopes of religion for all. When the wages of the Hot- tentot servant were paid in cattle, as was common, the land of the Missionary Institutions provided pasturage and safety for them. Those Institutions also enabled the serving man to obtain fair wages for his work, and good usage from his employer. It was on account of this last interference on behalf of the oppressed, that their oppressors hated the Missionaries from the first, and have never ceased to seek the suppression of the Institutions. Their importance on this head is beyond price ; and none who know the Cape colony can deny them to be still indispensable on this ground alone. If no other proof could be adduced in favour of this conclusion, a powerful one would be found in the bitter hostility of many ill -judging colonists to them to this day as developed by the present Kaffir war. The good impression made by the Moravians was deep enough to endure, visibly, many years after the mission was suspended. The distinguished traveller, Sparrman, afterwards one of the companions of Captain Cook, found members of it surviving after thirty years, who still pre- served a gi'ateful recollection of the teachers' kindnesses, and exhibited some fruits from their lessons. After an interval of fifty years, the labours of the Moravians were revived at the Cape with great effect and universal ap- plause. Other circumstances have also favoured, and extended the change. Other Missionaries, especially those of the London Society, have contributed largely to the advancement of the Hottentots ; and some humane in- fiuences in their behalf, distinct from those of the Mis- sionaries, have prevailed, both on the part of the Govern- APPEALS ON BEHALF OF THE HOTTENTOTS. 133 ment and among private individuals, with uniform success, whenever persevered in. The satisfactory description of the condition and conduct of the Hottentots in various states of hfe, contained in the pages of this journal, is therefore given with strong con- fidence of its rigorous correctness. Their steady progress as Christians, and as good members of society, notwith- standing any serious obstacles, has been established beyond reasonable contradiction. The melancholy check, however, to which a large body of them are at this moment exposed, demands that a more detailed account than would otherwise have been necessary be offered, of the means which have led to their unques- tionable improvement, and of the chief circumstances of their history under British rule, together with a brief view of the difficulties against which they have now to struggle. That a people become perfectly civilized, from being bar- barous within the memory of living men, should be thrown back into barbarism by the very same Government that had in various ways fostered their elevation, is a fact that must obtain a severe scrutiny. The French traveller, Le Vaillant, following up Professor Sparrman in his kindly view of the natural dispositions of the Hottentots, and in the denouncement of the enormous cruelties they suffered from the colonists, raised a strong feeling throughout Europe in favour of their claims to more humane treatment. The appeal was in harmony with lie growing good feeling of the age, out of which ultimately came the abolition of the Slave Trade by all the great states, and the emancipation of our own colonial slaves. Several Dutch writers of the time took the same enlightened view of the subject, which their Government adopted, and there- fore it encouraged the Moravians to re-establish their mis- sions among the Hottentots before the surrender of the Cape to us. Our successive conrpiests of the colony, in 1705 and 1806, confirmed the good prospect; and a young English official traveller, Barrow, laid tlie foundation of 134 MILITARY ENROLMKNT. his future eminence by a work upon Soutli Africa, in whicli he did the Moravians ample justice and warmly vindicated the cause of the Hottentots. Already, the Dutch had employed them advantagously as soldiers ; and we con- tinued them in militaiy service. With a single exception, in 1838, when a party of sixteen of the Cape Hottentot corps put one of their officers to death, for which two of them were shot under sentence of a court-martial, they maintained, during fifty years, an unblemished character for strict fidelity and the prompt discharge of duty. This is the simple truth, as could be substantiated by the testi- mony of a long succession of commanders ; and it has occun-ed without the stimulus of promotion. Serjeant- Major Hendrick of the Hottentot Cavalry, whose rightful position was that of chief of an ancient tribe, was fit, by his talents and character, for any post. He was well aw^are of his superiority to the young white men from whom he received orders ; and he was painfully conscious too, that the rank of a commissioned officer would, according to absurdly settled usages, never be his. So much was needful to be said respecting Hottentot soldiers, seeing that a most unhappy feature of the present disasters in the Cape fron- tier is the desertion of many of them to the Kaffirs, with the disarming of the uhole regiment — circumstances so utterly inconsistent with their long career, that the public judgment on the subject can only be satisfied by a most careful inquiry into the causes of the change, and all the circumstances of the case. Two early Commissions of Inquiry — the first, that which under British rule produced Sir John Barrows book, the second, which under Dutch authority is reported in Pro- fessor Lichstenstein's w'ork — decided the point that humane intercourse with the aborigines is the best policy ; but both left to future settlement the means by which such humane intercourse should be effectually conducted, and the bad system which both Commissions reproved, long resisted rational reform. Both of these Commissions recocj- CIRCUIT COUKTS. 135 nised the utility of religious Missionary Institutions, which were now increased by those of the London Society, dealt with somewhat jealously by the Dutch Government of a colony recently conquered by England. All these Institutions, however, met with much opposition on the part of many of the colonists whose violence they checked. It was Dr. Van- derkemp, and Mr. Eead, senior, who still survives, by whom some measure of justice was obtained for the Hottentots — not only for those who were at the Missionary Stations, but for the whole race, throughout the colony. An affecting appeal, from Mr. Read's pen, published in England, revealed the terrible atrocities inflicted on the Hottentots by some of the colonists, and thus led to the establishment of circuit courts. This was the first act of civil interference on the part of the philanthropists to serve the natives. Those courts did much to check wrong, and to stimulate the local authorities to do right ; but how ineffectual all the means yet employed for this end have proved, may be inferred from the astounding declaration of Sir Andries Stockenstrom, a few years ago, before the assembled Cape public, that one-tenth part of the injuries inflicted on the natives of South Africa Jiad not yet been told to the British Parllame7it, the British Government, and the British nation! At this period, in the first quarter of the nineteenth century, some of the eastern Hottentots still possessed cattle, with land of their own ; but they wei'e generally fast sinking by the operation of a wretched administration of the law, under a system of policy not less absurd than cruel, and under gross prejudices which impolicyand injust- ice fatally encouraged. They were compelled to servo at in- adequate wages, and they were consequently most wretchedly clotlied, ill-lodged, and so driven to steal to get suHicient food. The sheep-skin kaross of the days of their independ- ence was a rich mantle compared with the mangled rags now allowed them ; their well-filled bee-hive of former times was a palace before the bare hut given on sufferance 136 COMPULSORY SERVICE. by the colonist; the ofFal of his slaughter-house, for the Hottentot's women and children, was comparative stan^a- tion. In short, the lot of the Hottentot was one of unre- mitting and unrequited toil. The last Hottentot occupant of his own land, Stuunnan, being hateful to the colonists, who saw in his independence a reproach to their cupidity, and a refuge to his oppressed fellow countrymen, Avas at last entrapped, and, after being shut up in a small island in Table Bay, he was hurried off illegally to New South Wales. His case was strongly re- presented to England, and he was ordered to be restored home. Mercy came too late — he had died at Sydney, a banished exile, although not a convicted criminal ! After being stripped of their lands, the Hottentots were deprived of their liberty, without having the poor protection of an owner "s interest in their welfare. They were compelled to submit to forced service, and too often subjected to cruel personal violence, with insufficient means of redress. Their children were liable to apprenticeship, like slaves, for long terms of years. They were themselves confined to narrow districts, on pain of punishment as vagi'ants. The written contract itself, intended for their protection, was perverted to their ruin, as seen in the following cases : — A lai'ge number of the members of a Missionary Institution had, so lately as in 1829, been inveigled by a neighbouring colonist to seiwe hira, in consideration of debts incurred for brandy. As a first term was working out, he let the men have more brandy at exorbitant prices, and took from them engagements to continue to sen-e him. In one case he had taken such an engagement for forty-nine years — in many others for shorter periods. The wages stij^ulated Avere exceedingly low, as the debts were to be jiaid by the seiwice of the men. The result was gi-eat destitution in their families, and general misery. The magistrates re- fused to interfere with the " contracts," which were in due form. What was to be done ? Lesfal advice was taken at PEESOXAL VIOLEKCE. 137 Cape Town ; and at the Circuit Court the formidable con- tracts were attached for fraud. The plea succeeded, and they were all quashed, with great threats of appeal against the decision. The triumph against the oppressor was great; but it was gained only by a concurrence of favourable circumstances, — the liberal support of the Missionary patrons of the Hottentots, the means of making a patient inquiry into the extraordinary complication of knaveries in which the unconscionable colonist had entangled these poor labourers, and the pi-esence of a just judge familiar with the character of all the parties. Another group of cases occurred at another Missionary Institution, Bethelsdorp. They were the cases of Hotten- tots beaten and picketed by colonists with singular barba- rity. The offenders were pursued at the magistrate's petty court, but only with partial success. Every evasion was practised that a partial functionary could resort to, and several of the complaints rejected, against the clearest evi- dence. In this case, however, an appeal was addressed to the Governor of the colony, and the functionary punished for his manifest injustice, by removal from his post. These were some events of unceasing occurrence, which the arrival of British settlers in Albany, in 18^0, rather aggi-avated than checked ; but a second time philanthropic interference came in aid of the aborigines. In 18'2"2, Mr. Wilberforce was their advocate; and the impatience of the settlers under grievances peculiar to themselves, compelled the home G overnment to send a new Commission of Inquiry to South Africa. The result was a grave exposure of the injuries so long done to the Hottentots, and a full vindica- tion of the Missionaiy Institutions, at which mainly they were protected. It had long been a favourite object with many inconsiderate colonists to seek for the supjiression of these Institutions, on the ground of their encouraging the Hottentots in idleness. The real objection to them was, that they helped the labourer to stand firm on his IfiS MAGNA CHARTA OF THE HOTTENTOTS ile:aan sorvicc of the Government, taunted the Gonas, — " As you burnt out the Amatola^ we come now to burn you out in tiu-n." But Government ought to liave protected its old and faitliful servants. 6. It looks like revenge on the part of tlie magistrate, Mr. Bowker; for these Gonas, now expelled, were those who had been so severely fined, and whose fines were ordered by the Governor to be repaid, and which he had not yet repaid. Nothing could be more galling or provoking to the people than such proceedings, conducted, too, in such a manner, at such a season, and by such parties, and all after great and noble sei^vices for the Government ! Another serious cause of irritation among the people arose out of the excessive charges they were subjected to in impounding of their cattle, under circumstances of an aggravating character. The case is suitably described in a letter which I received from a friend shortly before I sailed from the Cape, on my return home : — " You will be sorry to hear that the people of Lower Blinkwater are in great trouble tlirough the conduct of Mr. Cobb, the superin- tendent of Fingoes and Hermanns' peoj^le, who lives about a mile above Tidmanton. I shall first of all give you a copy of Mr. Van Rooyen and the people's letter to Mr. Bowker, and the list of the moneys paid to Mr. Cobb : — [Translation.] " ' Tidmanton, 24:th June, 18-30. " ' Honoured Sir, — " 'I send you, ■with this, a letter from the people of Blinkwater, com- plaining about Mr. Sup*. Cobb, who is unceasingly sending their cattle to the pound. I think it is very hard that the people should be ruined by Government servants, as your worship may see by the ac- companying list that Mr. Cobb has already got above £9 sterling in money and foirr young oxen and tliree goats, and only because, he says, that the cattle trespass on the grazing line of the post. " ' We begin to think that he asked your worship to measure to hi;n IRRITATION OF THE PEOPLE. 187 ground in our commonage that he may use it as a pitfall to get our cattle and money. " 'If things go on so, the inhabitants find it impossible to remain here any longer. This is nothing but violent oppression. We trust that yom- worship will send copies of all our letters to his Excellency. We have thought it right to send copies to the agent of the London Missionary Society, in order to speak to his Excellency when he re- ceives letters from your worship. We are desu'ous of looking on the laws and the executors of the laws as means by which order and our liberties are to be maintained and preserved, and not as instruments of oppression. I, as well as the field-coronet and others of the people, have ab-eady spoken to you about these things. " ' I remain. Sir, " 'Your obedient servant, " ' A. VAN ROOYEN. " ' To J. R. Bowker, Esq., " ' Resident Magistrate.' " ' Tidmant07i, June 2Uh, 1850. " ' Sir,— " 'It is v\ith much regret that we have again to complain to you as some of us did to you the day we were at Mr. Elakenay's place, about the conduct of the superintendent, Mr. Cobb, towards us. Since that gentleman came here he has kept up a continual friction and unpleasantness Avith us. We think the oliject of the Government in appointing functionaries is not to ill-use her Majesty's subjects or to irritate the feelings of the people, biit to do what is just and right so as that they shall be a protection to those that do well and a terror to those that do evU. " ' What we complain of is, that Mr. Cobb is constantly sending our cattle to the pound, and exacting exorbitant demands from us for the release of our cattle, as you will see from the accompanying list, which can be vouched for by receipts of the pound-master at Fort Beaufort, and competent witnesses on the spot. It will be necessary, in order to explain the case, to remind you that the post is about a mile from the station of Tidmanton, and situate in ouj." commonage. That, when Sir George Napier was on the frontier, he induced several posts to be established in the Kat River, and post land was set ajjart by Engineer Capt. Napier, on the other side of the Blinkwater rivulet. Not- vvdthstanding this, the present post having been already established, it never was removed. The officers who commanded never interfered with the inhabitants, but lived in the greatest goodwill with the peo- ple whose erfs are near the post and at greater distances. The troop 188 " WE ARE TIRED OF IRRITATIONS." horses often came to the people's locations, but ■\vc said nothing, as we looked on the troops as protectors of the country. " • This was the case at all the military posts — Ecland's post. Fort Armstrong, and the Chumie post, on both sides the Chumie mountain. Since Mr. Cobb came here he has impounded our cattle AvMch have come within what he calls the lands of the post, and thereby made us pay the moneys and cattle specified in the Kst. From the position of the post, it has become quite a pitfall to us, and we shall soon become quite impoverished if things go on so. You must please to remark. Sir, that the cattle impounded, and for which we have had to pay, were not for trespassing on gardens or fields, but for grazing on what Mr. Cobb calls the lands of the post. Sir, after eighteen years, it is quite time that our lands should be rightly defined and security be given that we can sit under our \'ine and fig-tree, none making us afraid. We are tired of ii-ritations ; we sigh for peace and good understanding with oiu" legal protectors ; we wish to cherish confi- dence in the servants of Government. Mr. Cobb is also constantly holding out irritating language against us. The other day, while the KafBjs were being expelled from Fuller's Hoek, he said to Isaac Moscus and others, that as soon as it was done with the Kafiirs they would begin with the Hottentots. "\Ve tliiiik it our duty to state these things to Government. " ' We are sure his Excellency must feel annoyed at constant com- plaints coming to him, but he must see that there is something wrong. " ' We shall thank you. Sir, to pray his Excellency also to let us have our diagrams for our erfs and grazing lands. We cannot im- prove our lands wliile there is so much uncertainty about them. With a full confidence that his Excellency will paternally interfere in these matters, after your representation of our case, ''' " ' We remain, " ' Yoiir obedient servants, " ' Subscribed by the Erf-holders of Tidmanton. " ' To T. H. Bowker, Esq., " ' Resident Magistrate, Hertzog. " ' List of Monies and Cattle paid by the People of Tidmanton for the Trespass Cattle on what Mr. C. calls Commonage Lands. ' Klaas Nacka paid the pound-master for twenty- two head of cattle 1 11 For horse ....... 11 1 JanSpoyte ....... 7 2 Bacus Nacka ...... 4 3 4 Raus Backneus, for goats .... 1 3 4 EXCITKMENT AT KAT EIVER. 189 £ s. d. 3 6 1 3 4i 5 17 1 10 1 1 2 5 15 9 15 1 5i"' Peit Hollunde, for his bull being found on the post Kans Bactneus, for goats Valentine Jacobs. Rupido Klaas Field- cornet's servant, one ox Kemaduck Nacka, young ox Jasejoh Janges, young ox . Kaent Klaas, ox . Boy Malapa, three goats The. letter to me which enclosed the above, continues as follows : — " You will see, my dear Sir, from Field-cornet Botha's letter to the Governor, which my father has inclosed to you, the mamier which characterized the expulsion of the Gonas and Fingoes from Upper Blinkwater and Buxton. The excitement in the settlement about the proceedings of Mr. Bowker is very strong. Wliile the Kaffir police were burning the kraals of Botha's Fingoes at Buxton, one of the police is said to have remarked, 'As Botha came to the Amatola so have we come to him to-day.' Botha, you must know, was one of the com- manders at the Amatola vmder Stockenstrom. Is it prudent to awaken such feelings between Hottentots and Kaffirs ? From the state of feeling, I think there would be a collision if the Governor were again to send Kaffir police to burn Fingoe huts on the erfs or grazing lands of Hottentots. The feelings of the Hottentots are gettmg so strong against Government, I do not think they would get the Hottentots to turn out if the Kaffirs were to enter the colony. Sir Harry will have to change Mr. Bowker and Mr. Cobb, or he will alienate the feelings of the people from the Government altogether. Bowker has unjustly and summarily dismissed Andi'ies Botha from his situation, as you wiU see from the letter signed by the people, and which, after perusal, you will also please to cause to be sent to the Governor. The people have prayed for a commission of mquiiy on the affairs of the Kat River. " The case of the Blinkwater people and Cobb is a grievous one. It is, of course, the right of Government to establish posts wherever they please. But the rule which has been observed at Kat River is that posts never interfered with the grazing lands, as the troop horses always grazed on the general commonage. This was also the case 100 EXCESSIVE EXACTIONS. wliilc the troops were at Bliukwator. Since the war there have been no troops at any of the posts of Kat River and Blinkwater. Mr. Cobb is, however, occupying the premises at the lower Blmkwater posts, and instead of living in peace with the people he is harassing them perpetually, as you wUl see from the letters to Mr. Bowker. It is impossible for the people to live at Tidnianton if Mr. Cobb is allowed to go on in this way." Again, in my letter to liis Excellency the Governor, dated 8tli June, J 850, I incidentally referred to the cases of Stuurman and Karabana. It is in brief as follows, as stated in a letter to Jno. INIontagu, Esq., Secretary to Government, and dated Stockenstrom,=''- 18th July, 1850, signed by a respectable number of the inhabitants : — " The cattle of these men were, in the first instance, seized on sus- picion, accordmg to Kafhr law, though they are colonists ; but no case being proved against them, they were sent to prison for a month, on a charge of holding out tlu'catening language to Mr. TroUip, without having any fail- opportunity allowed them of disproving it, and then £1 13s. was exacted fi-om each, as expenses in a case of crimijial prosecution ! "V\Tien the Governor's decision arrived, in the matter of the Buxton Gonas (the thi-ee penalties of £10 each), which requii'ed the fines to be refimded, the magistrate very quietly re- turned the above £1 IS*, to each of the two sufferers, but without making any amends for their incarceration, their loss of time, and injury to health." Was it possible that such proceedings should not ex- cessively irritate the people? The same letter to Mr. Montagu contains sundry other cases. I select a few. There were two men, Kleinboy and Bruin, who had kindly volunteered to assist a party in tracing some oxen. After being two days at home, the same magistrate (Mr. Bowker) desired the field-cornet, A. Botha, to send them to Hertzog, the place of his residence, on a charge of having attempted to lead off the above party in pursuit of the oxen from the right foot-marks ; without being exa- mined they were sent off to Beaufort Prison, and detained there three weeks, and then allowed to give bail till the * Another name for Kat River, CAUSES OF IRRITATION. 191 Circuit Court came round, and then they were never tried at all ! Of course there was no evidence against them. A few months previously, eight men had been appre- hended; three by the field- cornet, and five by the Kaffir police ; their place was surrounded by that police, who ransacked their boxes and bags, and took away portions of their property, which was never returned to them ; three were imprisoned fourteen days, and five of them eight days, and then they were all released, on one of the pri- soners becoming bail for his brother ! Eighteen men were apprehended and imprisoned on the 9th July, 1850, on the representation of Davies and O'Connor, without any investigation in the presence of the accused. Some- were lodged in the gaol of Hertzog, and all forced to find bail, even in the absence of accusers and witnesses, and without having committed a wrong. The people ask in their letter, " If this is law, who is safe, and where Avill it end ? The feelings of the whole district have been outraged by this last act, and it is a wonder that some violence was not committed under the excitement of the moment." The writers of the letter go on to state — "We further complain also of the severity of Mr. Bowker's decisions, as manifest in the case of the Buxton Gonas (which mcurred his Excel- lency's displeasure) and as in the case of two lads, Caspar and Sias Suy- man, who raced and wounded a buck on a Sunday, but which was eventually killed by two other men ; the Suymans, the two lads, were fined seven pounds ten shillings each ; fifteen pounds, besides law ex- penses ! the other two escaped punishment altogether, though quite as guilty as the Sujanans, or more so. While Mr. Bowker has stretched the law to its utmost rigour in this case, yet he hunself can spend the Sabbath in burning huts, which could have been done on any other day. What an example to set to the people over whom he presides as magis trate — not to mention the inclemency of the weather to which these people were exposed, and the agitation kept up on the Lord's-day. " From these and similar cases, a deep feeling and want of con- tidence have been engendered in the minds of the pcoi^le, that they camiot get even justice at the hands of Mr. Bowker." ]<.)•:> PEOrLK's APPKAT, VOU INVF.STIGATION. The letter concludes willi the following paragraph : — " Wc, her ^lajcsty's loyal subjects, for the sake of ourselves and families, the happiness and prosperity of the settlement, respect for its laws and good order, do humbly pray his Excellency the Go- vernor, as the representative of her Majesty our gracious Queen, that he be pleased to appoint the Rev. 11. Caldcrwood magistrate and civil commissioner of Victoria, \\ith or -without any other gentleman which his Excellency may appomt, to make a true investigation into our allegations of the state of the Kat River, herein referred to. "NVe take the liberty of naming Mr. C, as he has lived on the settlement, and is acquainted with some of us ; and we ha^-e confidence in his impartiality and judgment. " We further pray, that the case between the Superintendent Cobb and the Blinkwater, alias Tidmanton people, the former sending the cattle of the latter from the commonage to the poimd at Fort Beau- fort, or making them pay in money, or cattle^ for their release at the post, may also be included tn the commission." The above letter from the people was accompanied by another from our Missionaries, Messrs. Eead, in which, after stating that they acquiesce in the views expressed by the people, justly remark — " We respectfully submit, that it is desirable that among her Majesty's subjects, and especially a people ui such a state of ci\'iliza- tion as the people of this settlement are, the laws be mildly and justly administered, so as to inspire confidence in the servants of Government and the objects of law. " It is indeed a pity that constant excitement should be kept up among the people, by such tilings as hiring out of the lands to Fin- goes (case of Van Rooyen brought under his Excellency's notice some months ago), the impounding of the people's cattle at Tidman- ton, by Superintendent Cobb, from the grazmg ground, burning houses the property of her Majesty's peaceable subjects, as well as the houses of the servants of the erf-holders, these being themselves subjects, and the administering the laws with excessive severity. As most of the people have long been known, and in time of war served iinder his Excellency, they believe that his Excellency cannot be acquainted with the grievances and sufferings, or he would give them instant redress. And we are happy that, from circumstances that have recently come under our observation, we can encourage them to hope that justice will be done them. LETTER FROM THE GOVERNMENT. 193 "We also perfectly concur in the choice the people have made of the Rev. H. Calderwood, Civil Commissioner of Alice, with any other gentleman his Excellency may tliink proper to appoint." In reply to these various communications, partly from myself to the Governor, as also from the people and Messrs. Eead, the following letter was addressed to the Rev. W. Thompson, Cape Town, from the Colonial Secre- tary, John Montagu, Esq., and dated " Colonial Office, llth Sept. 1850. " Sir, " The Rev. Mr. Freeman, of the London Missionary Society, before his departure from this colony addressed to his Excellency, the Governor, two letters dated the 6th and 8th July last, calling his Excellency's attention to several matters comiected -with the Stock- enstrom or Kat River settlement, together with the proceedmgs of Mr. Bowker, resident magistrate of that district, viz., the manner of removing the unauthorized squatters from the Kat River, the fines inflicted by the magistrate in several cases brought before him, the proposed dismissal of Eield- Cornet, &c. &c. "I am dii-ccted to acquaint you, as Mr. Freeman's successor, that the Governor appointed the Rev. H. Calderwood, and Charles BrowTilee, Esq., to examine into and report on all the above, as well as other complaints arising out of the Kat River. "And from the full investigation made on the spot, it appeared that Mr. Bowker, although not chargeable Avith any intentional mis- conduct, had in a variety of cases displayed a want of judgment, and of official knowledge, which had betrayed him into grave errors. " It is unnecessary to go further into details, as Mr. Bowker has tendered his resignation, which the Governor has accepted, and an officer of tried ability has been appointed in his stead. "With regard to Field-Cornet Botha, it appears that, although personally exculpated from the serious charge of hiring out the common lands, his son, in connection with a person of bad character, was proved to have done this. The replies of himself, whilst under examination, evinced so much absence of openness and candour, that the Commissioners expressed their marked disapprobation of his con- duct. Although so far unsatisfactory, the Governor has been pleased to retain him in office, takii\g care, however, to warn him in future to pay the strictest attention to the duties thereof, and the instructions of the superior officers. " With regard to the other causes of comi^laint, his Excellency o 194 KAT EIVER HOTTENTOTS. continues to take such steps as appear the best for removing any grounds for futhcr dissatisfaction, and for redressing past grievances. " I have the honour to be, Sir, " Yo\u- most obedient servant, "JOHN MONTAGU." The following sketch, from the pen of an intelligent cor- respondent in the colony, and lately come to hand, pre- sents so clear, forcible, and yet condensed a view of the case of the Hottentots of the Kat Kiver, that even at the risk of repeating some of the facts already stated, I insert it here, anxious as I feel to secure all the attention to this grave subject which the humane and thoughtful reader will not, I am persi;aded, withhold: — " The early years of the settlement were those of privation and hardship ; but the prospect of gaining an honourable livelihood for themselves and families fostered hope and nerved to exertion xaitH the object was attained. Then came the hour of trial — the desolating war of 1835 broke with all its force on the new settlement, and the Hottentots of the Kat River, called to the defence of the colony, by their loyalty and gallant bearing earned for themselves the high com- mendation of Sir Benjamin D'Urban and Sir Hany Smith ; but it was at the expense of all improvement, material, intellectual, social, and moral. War was to them the greatest of calamities — it had been entered upon from necessity, and had tliro%\'n them back many years in their onward career. Minds less elastic, and industiy less perse- vering, would have given way before the discouragement it occasioned. Scarcely had the poor people recovered from its effects, when the Kaffir war of 1846 called them once again from theii- peaceful homes to the warlike operations of the field. It was ■nith no small degree of reluctance that the Hottentots of Kat River permitted themselves to be enrolled as a burgher force to fight over agaia the battle of the colony vrith an exasperated and powerful foe. Under the able ge- neralship of Sir Andiies Stockenstrom, they again entered Kaffirland, "where, by their indomitable courage, they fully sustained their former reputation, and won the confidence and applause of all parties, civil and military. " As the able-bodied men of the settlement were incorporated for military- purposes with the army, the colonial Government promised rations to the families they had left behind, than which nothing could have been more jUst; but it would seem as if afterwards it was found KAT RIVER HOTTENTOTS. 195 convement for tliem to forget their obligations, and to ignore their own promises ; and in addition to this grievous wrong from violated faith, the Hottentots of Kat River found themselves, at the close of the war, once more reduced to poverty ; their homesteads in ruin ; their lands, after thirteen months' absence of those who woiild have cultivated them, fast retui-ning to the waste from which they had been originally recovered ; their cattle gone ; their families — here we stop, it is not difficult to imagme how and to what extent they would suffer from the absence of husbands, fathers, and elder brothers, — in short ruin in all its forms was an ever-present spectacle. Even this state of things, with its accumulated evils, might have been remedied had a fair opportunity been afforded to the settlers, " Soon after the return of these brave men to their desolated valley, nmety saw-pits were at work, and the persevering industry of the Hottentots promised in clue time to restore all, but the slain, of what they Ivid lost. Surely this commendable activity was deserving of encouragement from a paternal government. How was it met? You know the sequel — a tax of six shillings a load was then laid on the \\'ood brought out of what the Hottentots had been hitherto accus- tomed to consider their own forests, and this impost crushed the rising energy of the settlement. Nor was this all : a Civil Commis- sion was appointed to superintend and report on the Kat River, the result of whose labours is embodied in a Report, bearmg date 6th October, 1847, and signed 'T. J. Biddulph.' This was beyond human endurance ; its shameless disregard to truth, its covert insinuations, its evident marks of having been concocted by the parties by whom the appouatment had been made, to serve a political purpose, roused the indignation of the most respectable portion of the public press, and called forth a most satisfactory reply from the much injui-ed in- habitants of the settlement. The Report was sho\vn to be utterly un- worthy of public confidence, although published under the name of T. J. Eiddulph, and by the command of a High Commissioner, Sir Henry Pottinger ; it was adding insult to injury, and left a deep im- pression on the minds of the people. "While smarting under the sense of unmerited ill-usage the present Kaffir war broke out, and the Hottentots of the Kat River, like the colonists generally, whether Dutch or English, declined to come to the aid of Government, on the ground that their presence was re- quired to defend their own property, their homes, and all that they held dear to themselves upon earth. "This was a false step, proceeding more from ignorance than dis- affection, and yet not enth-ely free from the latter, arising fi-om the remembrance of their treatment during the past war. If the conduct 196 KAT RIVER HOTl'ENTOTS. i of the farmers, ay, and of townspeople too, who acted on the same narrow-minded selfish policy, admits of extenuation, so does that of the bur£;hers of Kat River. The fact is, a spu-it of infatuation came over all classes of the community, and over none more so than over that portion of it which has been loudest in its abuse of Kat E,iver. Those devoted men, the Eev. Messrs. AY. R. Thomson, James Read, sen., and James Read, jun., used all theu- influence to bring the misguided people under their care to a proper sense of their duty d\iring the present crisis, and to a certain extent they were successful. The colony owes them much for their self-denying patriotic exertions." A KAFFIR CHIKK AND HIS WIFE. CHAPTEK IX. THE KAFFIR HISTORY. THE KAFFIR RACE THE NEW POLICY INTRODUCED BY EARL GREY RESPECTING BRITISH INTERCOURSE WITH THE KAFFIR RACE THE AMAKOSjE, or KAFFIRS ADJACENT TO THE CAPE COLONY THEIR WARS WITH THE CAPE COLONY THE KAFFIR CHIEF MACOMO'S DAUGHTER INFLUENCE OF BRITISH POLICY IN KAFFIRLAND UPON THE INTERIOR OF SOUTH AFRICA. The present Kaffir war gives fresh importance to Cape Kaffir history, and a due estimate of that history is indis- pensable to forming a correct judgment on the character of the war, as well as on the policy fit to be adopted by Eng- land towards the great African family, of which the Kaffirs, long connected with the Cape, are but a small fraction. Deeply interesting as the condition of the Hottentots, both within and beyond the Cape colony, will ever be to a right feeling mind, their limited numbers greatly lessen their importance when compared with the Kaffir race. Including the Griquas, the Corannas, the Namaquas, the Bushmen, and the remoter families speaking the Hotten- tot language, met with of late years, far north of Lattakoo, their whole population does not exceed 150,000 souls. On the contrary, the Kaffir family, already well known to us, cannot be fewer than two millions in number. Spread from the eastern frontier of the Cape colony to beyond Delagoa Bay, and then across the whole continent, without 1 09. KAFFIR POPULATION. break, to the Atlantic, in latitude '20", and the countiy of the Daniaras, who alone are 40,000 in number, towards Walvisch Bay, this family of Africans are in frequent inter- course with our people of various classes. Thirty-six years ago the Rev. John Campbell first ascertained their im- portance in point of numbers, and their kindly disposi- tions. Dr. Philip afterward established decisively the extent of their language. Mr. Moffatt, and recently Dr. Livingston, have opened their remoter tribes to a con- nection with the Bechuana Country, under circumstances of tlie extremest interest, both in a political and religious point of view. A German Missionary Society has for six years pursued its labours from a point of the Atlantic towards the interesting discoveiy by Dr. Livingston, of a fresh Avater lake, in lat. 20° S., long. 24° E., so as to lay the safest foundation for efforts that cannot fail of having the best effects. In his work, published in 1828, Dr. Philip had already recorded the connection to be opened from that point, Walvisch Bay, and Delagoa Bay, by means of the common language of the tribes.* According to the testimony of the German Missionaries, populous Kaffir tribes, considerably advanced in industrious habits, occupy the west countiy, after passing 100 miles from the Atlantic towards the New Lake ; and according to the obsei'vations of Dr. Livingston and his party, "a very numerous" popu- lation occupies the country 300 miles east of the Lake. Generally they received the travellers well. Besides these newly-discovered Kaffir tribes, the Ama- kosfe, the people adjacent to the Cape colony, and the Tambookies, both extensively engaged in the present war, are more than 250,000 souls ; the Amapondas, and other tribes to Natal, 150,000 ; the Zoolas, and others in Natal, 100,000 ; the independent Zoolas, at least 500,000 ; the Bechuanas, Mantatees, Basutoos, and other tribes between Lattakoo and Natal, 300,000; the Matabele, and other tribes from the Zoolas to the Lake tribes, 500,000 ; which * Researches, vol. ii. p. 144. JURISDICTION TO THE EQUATOR. 109 conjectural calculations leave 200,000 for those and other tribes, east and west, to make up 2,000,000 of the Kaffir race, now ivell known to us. But this comparatively dense population of so many Kaffir tribes is far less important than their intimate rela- tions with our people. In several points. Missionaries have led the way to these relations. Everywhere, except in one very remarkable case, to be stated presently, they have hitherto made the most favourable impressions on these tribes. Everywhere they are now earnestly asked for by them. Traders too, and sportsmen, and men of science, have penetrated far among these tribes. Heretofore the agent of Government has come last. An extraordinary movement of discon- tented Cape colonists has, however, led to new views in this respect, and that movement has covered the face of South Africa, from the Vaal Kiver to the New Lake, with those colonists — the emigrant Boers. Now the relations of those various classes of our people with the various Kaffir tribes, constitute a vast means of extending civilization throughout Southern Africa ; and they have recently as- sumed a character altogether unprecedented since the independence of the American colonies. The subject deserves the most careful examination, seeing that in the last Cape papers laid before both Houses of Parliament, there are documents which open it in all its magnitude. The Privy Council advised her Majesty, only a few months ago, to extend the legal jurisdiction of the Cape colony to the equator — twenty-five degrees of latitude beyond its present limits, through a prodigious region belonging to Portugal. This is not all. Earl Grey has himself origin- ated, and worked out in much detail, in these papers, a policy in respect to these remote regions, which the philan- thropists in England have for some years advocated in vain. This is the policy of organizing the native tribes into federal communities, capable of protecting themselves against the aggressions of white men. Possibly, however. '200 CONFEDERACY OF NATIVE CHIEFS. tills may be arming them against one another, and possibly too against ourselves. A more serious design cannot be conceived ; but it must be pursued with very different views from those which influenced the Colonial Office at the time of its conception in November, 1850, as a mere arm against the Boers. " The first step to be accomplished," said Earl Grey, •• is to induce some of the chiefs of the tribes near the newly-discovered lake, in lat. 20° S., to establish a con- federacy, and to invite the residence among them of an officer, to be appointed by the Governor of the Cape. If an able and active officer, such as the commandant of Kaf- tVaria, or the diplomatic agent in Natal, were appointed, he would virtually, through the chiefs, direct the government of the confederacy, and, with the assistance of the Mis- sionaries, gradually extend its influence, and establish a more regular and settled government. The only expense to be incurred in the fii'St instance, would be the salary of the resident, and the cost of a small armed force on the model of the Kaffir police, by which the authority of the confederated chiefs, that is in their name, of the resident, must be maintained. This expenditure might be met by requiring every man of the associated tribes to pay, either in money or produce, such as cattle, corn, ivory, gum, &c., an annual tax, like that imposed on the Zoolas at Natal. " If the first step could be accomplished, and if security for person and property, under a government nominally of native chiefs, but really directed by an European resident, of the necessary qualifications, could be established in one district, however small, I feel persuaded that, with the assistance of the Missionaries, and the civilizing influence of commerce, the system thus commenced would, with judicious management, speedily extend itself, as the neigh- houring tribes would see the advantage of belonging to the confederacy, and ivould desire to be added to it on equal terms. " The proposal to extend the statute 6 & 7 Wm. IV. to the equator, has been recommended by the Privy Council ; PROTECTION OF NATIVES. 201 and I hope to be able, in the next session of Parliament, to introduce a bill for this purpose." Tluis Earl Grey erected a vast social edifice for the inte- rior, upon the foundation of a supposed success in Kaffraria. But that success having been subverted by the Kaffir war, other means must be devised for the attainment of this great object, — South African civilization. Indeed, when the organization of Kaffirland and Natal was relied upon as a precedent for the voluntary confederacy, to be proposed to the New Lake chiefs, it was forgotten that the organiza- tion of British Kaffraria was the result of several tears, and the fruit of the most stringent coercion; and that the or- ganization of Natal depended on the assent of 100,000 black refugees, whose great chiefs would certainly be no parties to it. The most praiseworthy object, therefore, of the Govern- ment, to protect the natives of South Africa from white aggres- sion, as here aimed at by the Secretary of State, must rest on other bases ; and the history of the Cape Kaffirs, which, as read by Earl Grey, fails to justify the new scheme at Lake Ngami, may be found, by a wiser interpretation, replete with better lessons to the same end. The earliest recorded intercourse of the Cape colony with the Kaffirs, is in 1702. At this period, a body of colonists having killed many of the natives, without pro- vocation, the authorities, in reporting the case to Holland, state that, " the business being of vast consequence to the colony, on account of the numbers implicated, it ought to be passed over, with the intention to take good care that no further opportunity were given to commit such acts." The good care was never taken ; and similar bad acts were continued unrepressed for a century, when a more humane spirit prevailed, towards the end of the Dutch rule in South Africa. But the error of feebly reproving the abuses of intercourse with the Kaffirs was even then followed by another error quite as mischievous, namely, tliat of attempt- ing to stop all intercourse with them, in order to suppress 202 MISSIONS AMONG KAFFIRS. its abuses. The Kaffir chiefs pei*fectly appreciated th* advantages to be gained from the whites ; they insisted thac peace could not be kept between neighboui's who did not niet't fiiniiliarly ; and they remonstrated warmly against the prohibition of commmiication with the borderers. That prohibition was at length given up by the advice of commissioners of inquiiy, sent to the Cape of Good Hope, in 18-^3. Dr. Vandcrkemp founded the first Mission, in 1799, among the Kaffirs, which their temporary jealousy of the English caused to be abandoned ; but the remarkable chai'acter of that eminent man was July estimated by them ; and along with the more recent impressions made on their minds by the elder John Williams, founder of the second Kaffir Mission, led to the subsequent zealous reception of Missionaries by all the Kaffir tribes. Of the Christian pro- gi*ess of many individual Kaffirs at the respective Institu- tions, notwithstanding their frequent disturbance by wars with the colony, there is no doubt ; and the example of the chief Tzatzoe, originally taught at Bethelsdoi-p, and brought up in connexion wdtli the London Missionary Society, and Kama, brought up in connexion with the Wesleyans, both admirable Christian men, favoured by circumstances, and by strong individual aptitude, show what might have been produced upon the minds of the leading Kaffirs in general, if their people had been treated with common consideration and justice by the British Government. When we received the Cape colony from the Dutch, in 1795, and again in 1806, a large portion of the Kaffirs had advanced, with a probably legal title, far beyond the bound- aries set up by om- j)redecessors as the proper line of separation between them and the colonists ; and so late as in 1811 many of the natives were scattered as useful herds- men, and acceptably to the farmers, so far as towards Swellendam. This fact is undisputed ; and it is equally certain that their chiefs at that time, forty years ago, earnestly and sincerely solicited instruction from our Mis- COMMISSION OF INQUIRY. 203 sionaries for their young people. The prejudices of the Government, much more than any ill-will on the part of the colonists, were opposed to their solicitations being granted ; and the expense and bad effects of a frontier war to expel them from a countiy they called their own, were delibe- rately preferred to the employment of proper means of civilizing them in intimate connexion with us. This first great Kafl&r war, begun in 1811, cost more money than would have bought the land contended for. Its monstrous injustice was exceeded by its gross impolicy. After we had driven them into the countiy we called Kaffirland, we interposed so indiscreetly in disputes be- tween the tribes, and we retaliated so violently for occa- sional cattle-stealing, as to rouse a new spirit of resistance, and bring on a second, dangerous Kaffir war, that of 1819. Its result in our favour led to further encroachments on their territory, and to a revival of the Dutch prohibition of intercourse between them and the colonists, with great jealousy of all Missionaries ; when, in 1823, the appoint- ment of a commission of solemn inquiry into every ques- tion affecting the natives of South Africa, promised the redress of grievances on all sides. The Commissioners soon removed the restrictions on intercourse with the Kaffirs. The eastern colonists, who were much increased in number by a British emigration in 1820, earnestly demanded the advantages of trading beyond the boundary, and of employing Kaffirs as farm- sei-vants. Both points were conceded, besides the removal of all difficulties in the way of Missionaiy Institutions. The Commissioners further advised, that political agents should be appointed in Kaffirland, to aid the chiefs in carrying on satisfactorily the new relations opening between them and the colony ; and that fairs should be established on the borders, to facilitate the interchange of commodities on both sides. They strongly condemned the old .system of Commandos, or armed expeditions of colonists, to recover stolen cattle ; of military ^a^roZs, which harassed tlie natives •^04 CONQUEST OF KAFFIRLAND. I'lir more than they protected the colonists ; and of reprisals, wliich too often made the innocent answerable for the guilty, when property was lost. The Commissioners were sup- ported by all parties in their views on these three points of border jjolice. They also advised that a lieutenant- governor should reside on the Kaffir frontier to superintend the great change that was obviously in progress. For more than ten years ^,11 these recommendations as to the border police and a Kaffir agency, were neglected. An accumulation of exasperating disputes therefore grew up, until more territory was taken from the Kaffirs in 18:29 and in 1833, under circumstances of extreme aggra- vation, which produced the third Kaffir war of 1834-5. This war closed with the conquest of Kaffirland by us, and by the declai'ation of the portion west of the river Kei, with the inhabitants, being British, and of their being subjected to British criminal law. This new British people was to have an ample provision of " ministers of religion, and other teachers,"' to be furnished by the State, and the chiefs were to act as magistrates if required, but British-born magistrates were also to be distributed among them. The system o{ coercion thus set up is called the D'Urhan system, from the Governor who formed it, after conquering the Kaffirs, and who required them to make a treaty with him for that purpose. The date of the treaty was the 17th of September, 1835. This D'Urban system was rescinded by orders from England, on the 2nd of February, 1837. In the meauAvhile it did not tranquillise the Kaffirs, or secure the colony; a great Kaffir war was imminent, pending its being in force, and the great emigration of the Boers to the interior, which it would have prevented if effectual, took place notwithstanding its influence. It is indeed notorious, that the frontier was in extreme danger under the D'Urban system, as its author knew well ; and that notice of the disapproval of it in England saved the Cape colony from a frontier explosion. But although the THE GLENELG SYSTEM. 205 Boers were disappointed at the D'Urban treaty of 18B5, other colonists were deeply interested in maintaining it, inasmvich as they steadily sought to crush the Kaffirs, and large grants of land were promised to them in the con- quered province ; which facts are the keys to much of the violent language used on the D'Urban system being re- scinded. Its abolition, and the restoration of the country to the Kaffirs, on the ground of the conquest being unjust, were the most remarkable events that ever occurred between us and this people. Out of these events grew other treaties, which constitute the Glenelg or Stockenstrom system, in contradistinction to the system founded on Sir Benjamin D'Urban's treaty. This new system was the result of a long inquiry before a Committee of the House of Commons. That Committee was appointed in 1834, in order to advocate the claims of the aborigines of the colonies to more humane treatment than was usual. It recommended the change of policy effected by the Kaffir treaties of 1837. The essential distinctions between the two systems is, that the D'Urban system rests on the coercion and conquest of the natives, — the Glenelg system, on native independence. Both imposed certain rules of a similar character upon the Kaffirs, respecting the police of the border, and they differed mainly in the estimates their supporters formed of the native character and rights. Ex- cepting on some points of detail, which the Kaffirs changed in compliance with the wishes of our governor Sir G. Napier, and Sir P. Maitland, the Glenelg system was in force until 1845, when its efficacy was formally inquired into by the Cape Legislative Council; and its success was powerfully insisted upon, without any ojiposition in that body. That success was illustrated in a remarkable manner, in regard to caUle-stealinr), — a subject of vital importance to a pastoral colony, and a perfect touchstone of the social progressof2)«s(>0. In addition to all this 1 may say that the religious ser- vices of Hie day were very delightful. The attendjxnce on the puhlic services was highly encouraging. Mr. IMerring- ton appeared to me to he steadily pursuing his work with all his heart and soul ; and his wife, a daughter of our late Missionary, Mr. Kitclnngman of Bethelsdorp, proving her- self a helpmeet to him, and a blessing to many. I foimd also an excellent school here, under (ho elVicient superin- tendence of IMr. Campbell. Sujiplied with relays of oxen, I proceeded from GraalT lleinet to Colesberg, and yet but slowly. Our cattle could find no herbage ; they had scarcely anything beyond a draught of water to subsist on from day to day, and became, of course, too weak for much service. One could wish to see lucerne more extensively cultivated here. I found Mr. Murray strongly recommending it. It seems well adapted to such a dry country as this, as by striking its COLESBEna — DR. VANDEIIKEMI'. 221 roots to a great depth in the soil, it finds sufficient moist- ure even when all the sui'face is parched. We passed a mountain of considerahle height and singu- lar af)pearance, called "Oude Berg," " Old Mountain;" its elevation might he about one thousand five hundred feet ; its summit consists of bare perpendicular rock, from thirty to fifty feet high, resembling the gigantic walls of some ancient tower or rampart. It belongs to the Sneeuw Berg range. The frequent recurrence of these descriptions of natural scenery may almost weary a reader, but I found on travelling that much of the tedium of a monotonous journey was relieved, if only by watching the various forms of I'ocks, and tli(! changing aspects of the clouds. Dr. Vunderkemp, amidst many peculiarities, w^as sin- gularly exact, in travelling, always to rest for the night at six o'clock. On one occasion, passing through a country like that which I am now describing, he had gone forward with his wagon beyond a stream, and yet had not reached another by his fixed hour of outspanning. He accordingly tin-n<;d back. It became dark. His attendant, who is still living, went down to the side of the brook to obtain water, and there, much to his astonishment, came directly in front of a fine old lion on the opposite bank, who had also come down for a similar purpose. The lion, asto nished at his new acquaintance, stared him full in the face, and not a little startled him. The poor fellow, scarcely knowing what to do, assumed the most cou- rageous air and attitude he could, picked up a stone, )ais(id his arm, and seemed to sny to the grim monster, "Now, if you dare stir, I shall certainly throw this ston(> at you ;" and th(!ro he had to remain, kee])ing his 2)osition all night, watching his opi)()iient, not daring to stir or sound a retreat. At length morning came; the lion turned his back and walked off, and so did the man. thankful that lie had not been made a dainty morsel of in tliis unexpected rencontre. After some incidents that possessed an interest at the 222 WEEPIXG WILLOWS. time, but Avhich, like many of the events that make up th( history of human life, have lost their charm by lapse ot time, I safely reached the town of Colesberg. It is highly picturesque. It has a tolerable supply of spring water; but there is no river, and there had been no rain for six months. The stream running through the town seemed small in quantity, and quite guiltless of transparency or any other inviting quality. The fountain in the neigh- bourhood is inclosed by a stone wall, to prevent its being tram^iled and spoiled by the feet of cattle. There are some cheerful-looking trees growing in different parts of the town, and some of the buildings have an air of com- fort and respectability. The Dutch Reformed Church is a spacious building, and the parsonage is well situated, graced by several elegant willows in front, which seem as though they never ceased " weeping" over the lot of the miserable aborigines, who have for the most part perished from the district, a few of them only remaining in the neiglibourhood. The population here amounts to six or seven hundred. The town is one of the most expensive for living in which the colony contains. All provisions are high in price, and wages also extremely high. The country is mountainous. The immediate vicinity of the town consists of what are locally tei-med "Kopjes," small tops or heads, miniature elevations, consisting of jagged heaps of stone or rock, and resting on a basaltic basis. They seem thrown up in confused and irregular masses, by some con- vulsive effort of nature, during a period of great volcanic action. They present the appearance of extreme barren- ness. A few poor wretched Bushmen find shelter among them ; two or three mats or skins constitute the tents, black as those of Kedar, in which they dwell, tliough, where subsistence can be found in such a region, it would be difficult to define. Our Missionary here is Mr. De Kock. He succeeded Mr. Atkinson, now at Pacaltsdorp. The chapel, which MOHAMEDAN CONVERT. 223 Mr. Atkinson was the means of building, holds comfort- ably about two hundred and fifty people, and the congre- gation neai'ly fills it. Considering the limited character of the population, I thought the aspect of our Blissionary station generally very encouraging. Still, the ministerial labours in the town cannot be called overwhelming, espe- cially when viewed as divided among four denomuiations, viz., the Dutch Pveformed, the Episcopalian, the Wesleyan, and tlie Congregational, or those of the London Missionary Society ; and yet it would seem difficult to relinquish either. The watchmen on the walls of Zion, for conti- guity, see " eye to eye," but each one retains charge of his own post of observation. We held a public Missionar'y meeting, at which G. Eaw- stone, Esq., Civil Commissioner, obligingly took the chair. There was a good attendance, and a kind spirit manifested. I was struck with one man, who came forward to insert his name in the list of subscribers. He had been till lately a Mohamedan, and, as I understood, a priest ; and, let the Koran fox'bid strong drink as it may, this genuine Mussulman was the constant victim of intemperance. He had now become a regular attendant on the ministry, and even the family worship of Mr. De Kock ; a total change had taken place in his habits ; he was supporting his family by his industry, and he put his name down, with that of his wife and child, to the amount of five rix dollars a month, which is equal to £4 10s. per annum, — really a handsome sum for a man in his circumstances, and yet, I dare say, more than saved by his happy rescue from in- temperance to sobriety.* * A curious fact was related to me while in the colony, of a man who had been much addicted to intoxication, hut took a pledge of resisting it, and became a sober man. After a time, temptation proved too strong for his vows, and he indulged in the vice. Again he resolved an amendment, broke himself of the pernicious habit, and became a sober and a happy man. Once more he was in danger, lie was in the town, and near the scene where he had been already a 224 TEMPEKANCE FIDO — 015ANGE RIVEU. Mr. Wright and Mr. Vanderschalk, our Missionaries then at Pliiliiipolis, came forward to Colesberg, to escort me to their station, and to assist me in getting safely across the Orange River. And I must say, I found all this kind aid of eminent utility. They greatly facilitated my journey, added to my comfort, and saved my time. We left Colesberg rather later in the day than we had intended, owing to the poor oxen having strayed out of the way for an hour, no doubt in search of pasture and water. We calculated on reaching the Orange Eiver in about five hours, forgetting at the moment, that though our oxen had had rest for some days, they had scarcely obtained any provisions, and wei'e therefore too feeble to advance at a rapid pace. It was eleven o'clock at night when we out- spanned just across the Oorlog's Poort Paver, which falls, near that spot, into the Orange River. We expected that we should easily reach the "Ferry" in the morning, and still be in good time to reach Philippolis in the course of the evening. Properly speaking, this part of the river is the Gariep, and riot the Orange River, though frequently called by the latter name. It forms the principal of the two streams, the Gariep and the Caledon, which, by their junction at some miles distance below this, constitute the "Orange River." We left our resting-place after breakfast, and reached the bank of the river about nine o'clock. There, while calcu- lating on going over almost immediately, w^e found that victim ; he paused at the comer of a turning leading to the canteen, and at length resolved to go there : his faithful dog was close by, watched him as though he read his thoughts and inward struggle, and as soon as his master began to yield and turned the corner of the lane, the dog came to his rescue, seized the skirt of his coat, held him there, tUl a sense of shame, in being thus checked in his folly by a dumb animal, wTOught a change in his unstable spirit ; he yielded to the poor dog's remonstrances, who both "moved a resolution," and "carried an amendment;" — he dashed away from the danger, returned home, and has kept sober ever since. Is not Poor Fido entitled to be made an honorary member of the South African Temperance Society ? UNEXPECTED DELAY. 225 the rope of the ferry-boat had just broken. The accident oc- curi-ed while the boat was crossing from the opposite bank, loaded with a wagon and a team of oxen. Tlie rope broke near the bank which they had just left. The ends of the rope being of course attached to the banks on both sides of the river, the disaster was of no consequence to those in the boat, as they could haul themselves to the side of the river to which they were coming. But it was a cala- mity for us. We had no rope from the other side with whicli to haul ourselves across, nor any men to fetch that portion of the rope from the opposite side, to be spliced and again fastened there. We were told that the accident might detain us a fortnirjht ; that we should have to wait till the river, now so large and swollen, in consequence of late heavy rain, had become fordable ; and that of this there was no immediate prospect. This was not very encouraging intelligence for one who was anxious to be pressing forward on his journey, and who had made spe- cific arrangements to be at Philippolis, Griqua Town, and Kuruman, during the next month. The owner of the ferry-boat,* Mr. Nerval, we had seen two days before in Colesberg ; but he was expected here on his way to Bloem Fontein immediately ; and then, when he came, we felt that some suitable arrangements would be forthwidi made. However, this prop also gave way. Mr. Norval had passed during the night, and had gone forward far beyond the reach of helping us, or even of being consulted as to what we should do. But his ivife would be on the spot shortly ; she lived only a few miles off ; she was a woman of business, and could attend to the affair with as much tact and skill as her husband himself. Meantime, some person appeared on the opposite bank. Mr. Wright, aided by good lungs and the sound-conduct- ing power of water, held a parley with him, and ascer- * Ldtcly established here at a cost, it is said, of £1000, a step in the onward march of civilization in South Africa, and a profitable speculation for the proprietor. Q ';j'26 CROSSING THE EIVER. tained that he belonged to a party at a short distance, who had come from Philippolis to meet me. Much to our satisfaction, we presently saw a small boat coming across the river, rowed by two men, and bringing a message to the effect that I should do well to return in it to the oppo- site bank, and leave my wagon to be sent fonvard as soon as the feny-boat could be again used. I complied with the advice, and in a short time found myself in the Griqua country. Mrs. Norval was ah'eady there, and promised that a new rope, which was ready, should be immediately employed, and my wagon forwarded early the next day. The river at the part where we crossed is a noble stream. It quite equalled my expectation as to the volume of water rolling along. It was not so broad as I anticipated, but it was fuller and deeper, and more rapid. Fording it would have been totally out of the question ; the cuiTent was far too powerful. It reminded me of the Thames about Pdch- mond, at high water. It had been much swollen lately from heav}' rains, higher up the country. It looked ex- tremely turbid, and was bringing down immense quan- tities of earth from the neighbouring lands, through which the mountain torrents have passed to feed the principal streams. The scenery is fine ; it may be pronounced rich. The banks are adorned with the willow, and it is stated that they are so to an extent of a thousand miles in length, owing to the sei-pentine course the river takes. The banks, on which I wandered about for the couple of hours that I waited, were of sand, formed by the decomposed sandstone, &c. in the vicinity. I picked up a few small specimens of agate. Leaving my wagon under the custody of my people on the opposite bank, and quite satisfied that they would take the utmost care of it, and the property in it, and the oxen also, I commenced the final stage of this part of my tour. A light vehicle, a South African family omnibus, had been kindly sent for me. It was drawn right royally by eight capital horses. Though without any postilion or out- EIGHT-IN-HAND, 227 riders, eight-in-liand, we dashed aAvay over the ground in a style that might have ahnost astonished ovir equestrian London natives in Kotten Kow itself. I confess the plan, though very economical in point of time, is more fatiguing than the sober ox-wagon, with whose stately movements mortals can without difficulty keep pace. The comfort is, tliat though the pain of jolting is severe, you are put out of your misery all the sooner. This conveyance he- longed to Gert Kok, a member of the family of Adam Kok, chief of Philippolis. We rested on our route, for an hour and a-half, at the residence of a Mr. Weise, a mem- ber of the Philippolis congregation, and before sunset found ourselves safely at Philippolis. H. Hendriks, secre- taiy to the native government, and two intelligent natives, Piet Draai and Winsel, had come thus far to meet me. Adam Kok, the chieftain, had also been there himself, but was obliged to return, in consequence of the illness and decease of his sister. She was buried just before my arrival at the village. CHAPTER XI. PHILIPrOLIS PROPEKTY OF THE GRiaUAS — ATTENDANCE ON SUNDAY SCHOOLS EDUCATION PUBLIC MEETING ANTELOPES GRIEV- ANCES RAMAH BACKHOUSE MESSRS. OSWELL AND MURRAY CORANNAS — LEADING OUT THE TAAL LANDS TO BE IRRIGATED surveyor's REPORT CROSSING THE RIVER GRIftUA TOWN VFATERBOEK SCHOOLS BECHUANA -WOMEN GEOLOGY ARTIFI- CIAL IRRIGATION DIFFICULTIES — DISCOURAGEMENTS — ENCOURAGE- MENTS — ^UNEASINESS AS TO LANDS TREATIES ALIENABLE AND INALIENABLE TERRITORY LETTER TO EARL GREY — SIR HARRY SMITH TO EARL GREY REMARKS ON THE LETTER TO EARL GREY LEAVING GRIQUA TOWN. I FOUND here the widow and part of the family of our late truly valuable Missionary, ]\Ir. Wright, sometime since of Griqua Town. Mr. J. Wright, who had lately discharged, very efficiently and acceptably, the duties of the station, was residing with his widowed mother. His health was proving inadequate to the services required of him, and he was retiring from his engagements with the Society. I took uj) my temporary abode with Mr. and Mrs. Vanderchalk, in their hired cottage ; and soon began to find, from the conversation of the chief and the people, who called on me, that my time and my thoughts ■would have full occupation during my visit. The Mission chapel here holds about 700 people. It is in a very imperfect state, and indicates, I fear, some want of earnestness and liberality on the part of the con- gregation. There are no pews, and but few regular benches. The hearers bring their own seats with them — chairs and stools of all possible variety, and of the rudest PROPERTY OF THE GRIQUAS. 229 description — a plan extremely inconvenient and undigni- fied, though just a little above squatting on the ground. And yet this absence of comfort does not originate in the poverty of the people. Many of the Griquas possess considerable property. I counted not less than from forty to forty-five wagons, belonging to the people who had come from the country to attend the services at Philippolis on the Sunday. Great numbers of the people also came on horseback. They are rich in wagons, horses, and oxen. The attendance at the chapel is usually large and en- couraging. It has occasionally been six hundred or seven hundred, and sometimes only half the number. Many Bechuanas live in the neighbourhood, and attend the chapel on Sunday. Services for them are held in their own language, the Sichuana, once in the school room, and once in the chapel. I think they are sufficiently numerous and intelligent to have a Missionary, specially and wholly devoted to their interests. The state of education is not very satisfiictory. The attendance in the school at Philippolis varies from thirty- five to seventy. At the out-station of Eamah there is about the same number. This fewness of scholars, amidst a large population, does not arise wholly from indifference on the part of the parents to the instruction of their children, but to the circumstances in which they are placed. But few families live at the town itself. The people reside on their farms or cattle-posts, where pasture and fountains can be obtained, and the distances are too great to permit the attendance of the children at any central station; besides which, the actual services of the children are in many cases required, to assist in tending the flocks and herds. It is an extremely desirable measure that the Griquas should devote themselves, more exten- sively, to (jcirlcaltural j^ursuits, as a means of advancing them in the scale of civilization beyond the condition of the pastoral life, and still more as a means of weaning them from their fondness for hunting excursions in distant \>'60 EDUCATION. parts of the country, and in which they sometimes engage for montlis together, to the neglect of all domestic and civil institutions. Their agricultural pursuits require the services of the youthful members of their families, and hence the absence of children from the Mission Schools may be accounted for without imputing it to wilful neglect on the part of the parents. But even in these cases, their elementary education is not wholly forgotten. They pro- cure some leading lessons from the Missionary, and make some little progi'ess at home. A few Griquas have united to pay the salary of a schoolmaster, Avho resides at their farms, and instructs their families on the spot. This indi- cates a very laudable desire of improvement. I wish it were more general. The Griquas might have improved more than they have done. They certainly have not fully availed themselves of all their advantages. Philippolis itself is a poor town. Very few of the people have con- sti'ucted good houses. They are not indeed addicted to the use of ardent spirits, but their fondness for tea, coffee, and tobacco, amounts almost to a fever, and which, unhappily, never becomes intermittent. I was glad, during my visit at Philippolis, to be aided in my communications wdth the j^eople, by Mr. Bead, senior, from Philipton. It had been arranged that he should meet me here, and then accompany me to Griqua To^vn. He conducted public worship with the people, and addressed them efficiently at a public missionary meeting, which we held, and at w4iich C. U. Stuart, Esq., Civil Commissioner, obliged and gratified us by taking the chair. These Griquas are sufficiently wealthy to pay the whole expense of the Mission established among them, and they are so much indebted to Missions, that they ought to do it. Mr. Stuart, to encourage them to become subscribers, jiromised to head their list by a donation of ten sheep. The people followed: some promised yearly amounts in money, and others cattle. Altogether about £80 was promised, and I thought it a respectable beginning. This was merely 3 A MILLION HEAD OF GAME. 231 revival of their former auxiliary to the Society ; it had become rather inanimate, and needed resuscitation. After the very ample details given by Major Harris and Mr. Gordon Gumming, touching all matters in connexion with the wild game of this part of Smith Africa, it would be not merely superfluous, it would be absolutely preposterous in me to say anything about it. I did not forsake my beaten track in quest of antelopes, quaggas, butfalos, elands, elephants, or lions. I saw occasionally herds of game in the distance, and I was told, every now and then, that they abounded far more than I could see. In a note winch I received from Mr. Stuart, dated from Bloem Fontein, he remarks, " You will be amazed at the vast herds of game between half way to Colesberg (from Graaff Keinet) and Bloem Fontein. I reckon the number of game in my district at one million head. What a heart-stirring thing it is to let your horse have the reins, whilst he dashes up to some four thousand graceful antelopes !" I dare say it would be very heart-stirring, but I could not induce my team of ten sober-minded oxen, with a cumbrous wagon at their tails, to try any such experiment. Before leaving Philippolis, I had much conversation with the people regarding their civil and political circumstances. They had grievances of which they had to complain, and to these I shall more distinctly allude in a subsequent portion of this chaptei'. I will here only remark, that while I think the Griquas labom- under some real difficulties and discouragements from the measures of Government, I am convinced tliey can be effectually heljDed only by helping themselves. They may require the guidance of an intelli- gent friend, the stimulus of encouragement, and especially fair dealing as to territory on the part of the British Govern- ment ; but unless they act with decision, and vigour, and perseverance, in improving their own condition, they will deteriorate, — others of more energy will take advantage of them, and they will be superseded as a nation. Leaving Phili])Uolis on my way to the Yaal Biver, I sent 23 Q BACKHOUSE. forward my wagon, and proceeded the first fifty miles of my journey in a horse-wagon, accompanied by tlie chieftain, Adam Kok, and his secretary, Hendritc Ilendriks, and some of the people. Mr. Read was also my companion, ever bland, lively and attentive, rich in illustrative anecdote, the unwavering friend of the coloured races, and the de- fender of the "poor and needy, and of him that hath no helper." Our party returned to Philippolis the next morn- ing, and Mr. Read and myself proceeded to Greet Fontein, where the chieftain, A. Kok, is building for himself a good eight-roomed house and stables. There is an ample supply of water on the property; many families might be provided for. There is room there for a considerable village. We visited the out-station of Raraah, where the stream divides the two districts of the Griqua country, governed respectively by the two chieftains, Adam Kok and Water- boei*. The village is small, but there is an excellent native teacher there of the name of Frederick Kotze. He conducts the day-school, and holds sendee on the Sunday. The people are poor, extremely poor, but friendly and obliging- They cheerfully aided me by the loan of teams of oxen. We reached the next day another out-station, called "Los Kop," Avhere we remained two or three hours, held a short service with the people, and then went forward to Guahanop, on the banks of the Vaal, a station which, from the interest taken by James Backhouse, Esq., of York, in the improvement of the condition of the people, has since been veiy appropriately called "Backhouse." It is about one hundred and forty miles distant from Philippolis. Here I met w-ith Mr. Hughes, our Missionary. He was just then busily engaged in assisting Mr. Murray to come across the I'iver, and to convey over his Avagons, on his return with Mr. Oswell, from the interior, whither those two gentlemen had been engaged with Dr. Livingstone in the discovery of the Lake — the great inland lake, called Ngami. Mr. Oswell I met a few days afterwards on the other side of the river, also on his way to Cape Town. I CORANNAS. 233 was glad to embrace the agreeable opportunity of con- versing with both these genllemen respecting the newly discovered lake, its surrounding country, inhabitants, productions, and scenery. But as I shall have occasion to advert again to this, when noticing my visit to Dr. Living- stone at Colesberg, I defer till then further particulars. Our Missionary Station was commenced here in 1845, and has all along been identified with the Griqua Town Mission. The necessity of attempting a location here originated in the fact, that the supply of water at Griqua Town is not sufficient to meet the wants of any increase of population. Provided a plan could be devised by which a stream could be led out from the Yaal lUver, for the pur- poses of irrigation, a very considerable number of the people might settle here under advantageous circumstances. Mr. Hughes has been indefatigable in his attempts to secure this great object. He has removed there with his family, built a house, got a chapel raised, and collected several native families of Griquas and Bechuanas around him. I spent a Sunday there during my visit, and was delighted with the encouraging state in which I found the schools and congregations. There were also many Co- I'annas attending service. Mr. Kead addressed them through our interpreter Jantje Cupido. He appeared to understand the Dutch language quite well, which was used by Mr. Eead, and to speak fluently the Coranna, — if indeed the term fluency can be legitimately applied to a language so replete with clicks, and sounds for which our English language fails in descriptive epithets. Judging from the pauses and intonations of tlie speaker, the language seemed to me singularly monosyllabic, — an idea that may a little confirm the opinion expressed by the Rev. W. Elliott, that there exists some relation between the Hottentot and the Chinese languages. The Coranna is a dialect of the Hottentot. We held a public meeting next day. The people are poor, and deserve encouragement. They have but few 284 LAND TO BE IRRIGATED. means of increasing their property, unless they cviltivate lanil, and tliat depends on tlie success of the scheme for securing artilicial irrigation. Mr. Hughes has justly re- marked, — "The Griquas are not "wanting in enterprise for hunting, fanning, trading, wagon-clriving, Avagon-mending, and even wagon-making, nor ■would they be -wanting in the enterprise of irrigation by the river- stream, could they but be shown, by actual experiment, how the thing is to be obtained. Coidd a model farm be successfully carried out on the banks of one of those rivers, the example wo\ild not be lost upon the people. B\it the execution of such model plans requii-es skill, capital, and experienced workmen, — and hence the difficiilties in the way of the scheme." Accompanied by Mr. Hughes and Mr. Eead, I went to see the spot where it is proposed to lead out part of the sti'eam, and also to see the extensive plain which it is pro- posed by that means to irrigate. The plain stx-etches along the side of the river up to the junction, the Vaal and the Zwarte or Black Eiver, and where they then form the Orange Eiver. The length of this very valuable slip of land is about fifteen miles. Its depth is about five hundred yards. Hence it is large enough to admit five or six hundred families, each having an erf, or plot of gi-ound, of about two morgens or four acres, with a frontage of fifty or sixty yards. It consists of a fine rich soil, and is land fit for the plough. The basis is limestone, but the upper soil is a reddish sand, and which, though shallow at the upper or most distant part from the river, increases in depth as it approaches the stream. It has never yet been cultivated, and will not require manuring for many years. The fall of water be- tween the spot where it is proposed to lead it out, and the spot where Mr. Hughes' dwelling-house now stands, is estimated at about thirty-five feet, — namely, twenty feet to the " rapids," including the fall there, about two or three miles up the river, and fifteen feet between those " rapids" and the spot where it is proposed to lead out the stream. I found the river high, and the stream broad, in conse- quence of the late heavy rains. At all times the stream is AKTIFICIAIi lEEIGATION. 235 sufficiently large to irrigate even more land than it is at present jirojected to cultivate. I felt so strongly impressed with the importance and necessity .of this measure, that in concurrence with the wishes of Messrs. Hughes and Solomon, I wrote to Mr. Moffat, jun., to try and obtain his services as a svirveyor, so as to ascertain the practicability of the plan before taking other measures. And as Mr. Moffat held at that time a Government appointment as surveyor, in the Orange Eiver sovereignty, I wrote to Major Warden, British Resident, to solicit permission for him to render us the service re- quired. This was cheerfully granted by Major Warden. But on examination, IMr. Moffat found that the level of the river was too low for the plan of irrigation, and that the work was "utterly impracticable." "This," in the language of Mr. Solomon of Griqua Town, "has proved a disappoint- ment to the hopes they had entertained. On this the peo- ple had fondly fixed their hopes as the means of advancing their interests, and we had looked forward to it as the best expedient for giving a permanence and stimulus to our Mission." A communication has been recently received from Mr. Hughes, in which he remarks, in reference to the surveyor's report, that the river level is eight feet too low for the plan of irrigation, and that — " The subject is still pending. Mr. Freeman was so impressed with the absolute necessity of some such effort for Griqua Town Dis- trict, that he repeatedly declared that nothing less than the unfavour- able report of even a third surveyor would warrant oui- abandoning the plan. A second surveyor is now prejjaring to go and give liis report of what can be done. Eut supposing that the level of the river-stream shall be found too low for iirigation by a mere water- , course, there are friends who suggest that this said deficiency of eight feet ought to be overcome by the help of a water-wheel, raising the water to the level requii-ed. Mr. Cameron, of Cape Town, has kindly planned, and is now making, a model of said water-wheel, to show the possibility of something being done at some score of places outhe banJts of the Vaal and Black llivors." 236 GRIQUA TOWN. Being now ready to leave Backhouse on my way to Gri- qua Town, about fifty miles distant, my wagon was taken down to the water side, then taken to pieces, and sent across the Vaal in a large boat. Mr. Eead kindly preceded me, and had the pieces put together again in a very short time, a business in which, I confess, had it been left to me, I should probably have bungled almost as much as if I had attempted to pi-each in the Hottentot language. Across the river I met Mr. Oswell, on his return from the Inland Lake. He was conveying with him some re- markably fine elephant- tusks, found in the neighbourhood of the lake. One of them was unusually large, weighing lOSlbs. The ivory would fetch about four shillimrs a pound, so that this single tusk would be worth about twenty guineas. Griqua Town has about 400 inhabitants. There is, however, but one fountain, and that affording a stream but just enough for the supply of the resident families, and the irrigation of the gardens attached to their houses. Some time since this fountain ceased to flow altogether, and re- mained dry about six years. There are not more than about twelve good houses in the town, including those of the Mission families and the Cliieftain Waterboer, The station is important as a central field of Missionary opera- tions, with its various out-stations. There are upwards of 1200 pei'sons under the direct influence of the Missionary, and 500 of them communicants. The Missionary here is the Rev. E. Solomon, whom I had the pleasure of know- ing some years previously in Cape Town, then attached to the congregation under the pastoral care of Dr. Philip ; and now an accredited and valuable Missionary, trained for the service by the judicious instructions and pater- nal care of Dr. Philip — one of several so trained by Dr. Philip — men of the colony, and eminently qualified for the work to which they are committed, — honoured by the peo- ple and approved of God. This Mission Station has been established between forty and fifty years. Mr. Anderson, who still survives, and re- GRIQUA TOWN. 237 sides atPacaltsdorp, had been the companion of the Society's early Missionary, Mr. Kramer. They had travelled among the Griquas on the banks of the Orange Eiver. Ulti- mately, the people settled here. The previous occupants of the country were Bushmen. This spot, now called Griqua Town, was formerly called Klaarwater. Waterbocr, the chieftain, has been an enterprising, energetic, and intelligent man, well acquainted with the Scriptures, of a genuine Christian character, and well qualified to instruct as well as command the people. The chapel here seats about 400 people, and the con- gregations average about 800, consisting of 120 Bechuanas and 180 Griquas. On special occasions as many as 500 attend. Of the members of the Church about sixty-five live on the spot ; the others reside at the various out-stations of Moruani, Ngoras, Khaigap, Gassiep, Tsantsaban, &c. There are about seven day-schools maintained on this Mis- sion, at which the average attendance is nearly 400 ; one infant school, containhig forty-five children; and ten Sun- day-schools, in which a large part of the entire congregation become scholars. The Sunday which I passed at Griqua Town presented many scenes of physical and moral beauty. The day itselt was remarkably fine, clear, and calm. The tremendously high winds of the preceding day had subsided, as if in obedience to the will of Him who has instituted the Sabbath and ordained it to be a day of undisturbed repose. An early meeting for prayer was held, and which was attended by about 200 pei'sons. Between seven and eight o'clock the schools commenced. The infant-school met under the agreeable shade of some fine fruit-trees in Mr. Solomon's garden. The children were all neatly and com- fortably attired, and which is no mean proof of the ad- vancing civilization of the people: the nicely-fitting and clean little dresses of the young ones were made wholly by the people themselves. Most of the people are able to purchase clothes, and they are left here to do so. To sup- ij;18 GRIQUA TOWN SCHOOLS. ply tlicm gratuitously would be difficult from its expensive- ncss, and Avould be sure to create jealousy, however fair and impartial the intentions and the doings of the donors. A Bible-class was being held in the vestiy, and a large Sun- day-school, containing scholars of both sexes and all ages, assembled in the chapel. I visited next day the school under Mr. Solomon's care, and met there a large class of young persons, who read to me part of a chapter in " Chambers' Educational Course," in English, and translated each para- graph into Dutch, with much facility, and showed that they quite understood what they were about. Another class of about forty then assembled and read a chapter in a Dutch work, entitled the " History of the Old Testament," and on this and other corresponding subjects, they underwent a long and brisk examination, and indicated a wider and more exact knowledge of the Old Testament than I had met Avith elsewhere. Mr. Solomon conducted the exami- nation in Dutch, on my gi^'ing him the points on wdiich I wished some questions put; and the result, to my mind, was very satisfactory, and proved that for some time past great pains must have been taken with the young people. Much of this work of instruction had been conducted by Mr. Wright, before his removal to Philippolis, and the pre- sent Missionary reaps the fruit of it. A foundation is thus laid for an intelligent and improving congregation, and with this, for the progress of education for a long time to come. But here, again, I found an amazing dearth of materials for improvement. All the young people of the elder classes should be supplied with books to intei'est and improve them. I indulged the hope that the Eeligious Tract Society might furnish them with some ere long, in the Dutch language. I had an interesting conversation with a native teacher from Moruana, of the name of Makami. He had slightly learned to read many years ago, while Mr. Bead was Mis- sionary at Kuruman, although the schools at that time were in a veiy imperfect and inefficient state. From that BECIIUANA WOMEN. 239 school, however, so many ohtained the rudiments of Chris- tian knowledge, that when some years afterwards Mr. Read visited the neighhourhood, he found no less than thirty two who had become members of the Christian Chiu'ch. Several Bechuana w^omen called in to greet me on my arrival in their country. I was struck with their appear- ance as sober-minded and intelligent women, and I took the opportunity, through an interpreter, of urging on them the importance of their using all their maternal influence in a rifjht direction, as so much of the future character of the nation depended on the instruction and influence of the mothers. They assured me that they felt aware 'of this, and the great importance of it, and that they habitually prayed that God ivould help them, so that they might suc- ceed in their efforts. During my stay in Griqua Town, I went two or three times to the rising ground on the south side of the town, a favourite spot, I should think, with all visitors fond of geological and mineralogical pursuits. I gathered up there some choice specimens of the schist, containing what is called the yellow or golden asbestos. The whole formation is really beautiful. The layers are often remarkably fine and thin, yet deposited one on the other with most exqui- site regularity and evenness. The colours are richly pre- served. It constitutes, altogether, the finest exhibition of the kind I have seen. The quantity seems boundless. The contortions, too, of some port' on of it are as singular as can well be imagined. I broug \t home several speci- mens with Avhich to gratify others as well as myself. Waterboer the chieftain entered very fully into the scheme for irrigating the lands at Backhouse. He wishes to en- courage the people to prosecute the enterprise, though attended with expense, and he was prepared to meet favour- ably the various points of arrangement respecting the holding of the land, that had threatened some little diffi- culty. He is a remarkably keen and intelligent man, takes at once a clear and compi-ehensive view of a subject, and 240 WATEUBOER, THE CHIEF. expresses himself with great propriety. He is said not to retain the energy he formerly had. I found him sutfering much from pain and indisposition, but I saw at once that he was a superior man. The great difficulty in regard to the plan of leading out a stream from the Vaal River at Backhouse, consists in its expensiveness. Tlie plan con- templated, -when I was on the spot, could not be effected for less than one thousand pounds. It was proposed however to sell allotments of land, having the benefit of the irriga- tion, at £10 each. It was expected that a hundred pur- chasers would soon be found among the Griquas and other natives, if they once saw, on the basis of a professional opinion, that the object could really be accomplished. A committee Avas appointed to act on the business, consist- ing of \Yaterboer, as president, Mr. Hughes, superintend- ent of works, Mr. Solomon, treasurer, and four persons among the natives, chosen by the allotment holders them- selves. It was also unanimously agreed that any natives, Bechuanas, Fingoes, Hottentots, Bushmen, &c., who could pay the said ten pounds, should possess an equal right to become a landholder with the Griquas themselves. There exist, however, many drawbacks to the improve- ment of the people, some of which are quite beyond their control. These should be taken into consideration by the friends of the coloured races, when uncharitable reports are circulated, as they not unfrequently are, to the preju- dice of the people. Mr. Solomon, in his report on the Griqua Town Mission, for 1850, observ-es : — " Several circumstances have conspired to produce depression, a few of which. I may mention. " The first is, severe and long-continued drought, aggravated at the commencement of this year by the ravages of immense swarms of locusts, by which all the com, maize, and garden stuff of our people were destroyed, together with the pastm-age of the coimtry. Such visitations present a greater obstacle to our progress than those at a distance might conjecture. Their first effect is to impoverish the people, and produce that depression of mind inseparably connected with very spare and poor diet ; but their indirect effect is still more DIFFICULTIES OF THE MISSION. 241 injurious, as they scatter our people, and remove them sometimes for months from the means of grace, and the superintendence of their pastors and deacons. As soon as a di'ought has set in, most of our people have to seek some place where they can obtain water and grass for their cattle. Should the drought continue, frequently a whole location is broken up and dispersed ; and even after rarii falls, it sel- dom happens that all return to their homes, — some having found a spot which suits their inclinations. And those who do return rarely come back improved by the circumstances into which they have been thrown, those being either complete isolation, or else too close a con- tact with their heathen neighboixrs. Many of our church members have as yet few mental resources of their own — their views of Divine truth are not very comprehensive — books in their language ai-e very scarce, and consequently, they in a special manner require the excite- ment and stimulus of the means of grace. Severe drought has been one of the difficiilties with which we have had to contend tliis year. At one of our villages so severe was the drought, that the poor people had actually to go to a spring five miles distant to draw water, their own fountains ha\ing completely failed. " Another cause is a feeling of insecurity regarding theu* tenvu-e of groimd, excited by the fact of the British Resident at Bloem Fontein having come \\ithin the boundaries of Waterboer's district, and erected some beacons (land-marks) there. His plans are not yet developed, but reports are rife that he intends to take in, and include within the Sovereignty, a large patch of Waterboer's ground. These reports are credited, and the people are restless, suspecting that ere long they will bo entirely deprived of their territory ; and I regret that I am compelled to say, that the course hitherto pursued by the Colonial or British Government, on this side of the Orange Kiver, aifords too much ground for such a suspicion. " Another difhculty in our way this year has been the hunting ex- peditions of our people. These expeditions are, in many respects, in- jurious to themselves, involving, as they do, their absence firom their families and the means of grace for five or six months, — living a rude and certainly not the most ciAdlized kind of life, besides losing the best time of the year for agricultural laboiirs. But, I suppose, these himts will be continued so long as they are fancied by our people to be profitable. For the last few years, the periodical hunts had lost much of their attraction ; but the discovery of the Interior Lake last year, and the large quantity of ivory brought home by a few of our Griquas, who went to that neighbourhood, very naturally revived their love for the hunt, and excited their desire for gain ; and conse- quently, a lai-ge number of our men have been in the interior to hunt B mo, GRigUA LAND QUESTION. elephants this year, thinning our congregations, and removing for six or seven months, from under our intiuence, those who might have been employed in promoting the interests of the Mission and country. However, as these hunts will, in all probability, beeome year by year less productive, the evil is likely to work its o^\^l cure." In reference to the above remark of Mr. Solomon, as to the suspected encroachments of the British Government on the lands of the people, Mr. Hughes, writing from Back- house, remarks : — "Mr. Solomon is very right in describing the Griquas as suspecting that a part of their territory is about to be WTested from them by the British Resident, for the benefit of the Boers of the Sovereignty. The prevention of such suspicions was om- object in bringmg the Griquas into treaty with the Governor of the colony ; and if now such treaties are not to be respected by the parties who made them, then all con- fidence is at an end. But we v\i]l still hope, — as we hear that the chief, A. Waterboer, is taking steps to restore this confidence, and a few months may show the result." This question of the taking possession of the lands of the people is a very serious one, and involves most important consequences, both to the people themselves, and to the tranquillity of the colony. 1 found the utmost uneasiness and dissatisfaction prevailing on this subject at Philippolis. The measures adopted by Sir Harry Smith, tlie Governor, appeared to me not only to be a violation of treaties solemnly entered into with the people, and confirmed by Her Ma- jesty's Government, hut involving much hardship and in- justice towards the natives as individuals, in depriving them of acknowledged rights over private property. In the year 1846, Sir Peregrine Maitland, then Governor, entered into a treaty with Adam Kok, chieftain of the Philippolis division or district of the Griqua Country, and which, after distinctly recog"nizing the right of the Griquas to the countiy% declares "a certain i^ortion of the country to he alienable, and the other portion inalienable,'' and arranges that the Griquas should receive half the amount of quit- rents received by the Government from the fanners, whetlier GEIQUA GRIEVANCES. 243 occupying one district or the other. In 1848, Sir Harry Smith, being at Bloem Fontein, formed a new treaty, in- stead of that of Sir Peregrine Maitland, and forced by intimidation the chief, Adam Kok, to sign it, threatening to hang liim and his councillors on the spot if they did not do so. By this new treaty they were made to accept a subsidy of £300 a-year, in lieu of any share in the quit-rents. Provision is made for their claiming back all lands in the inalienable territory now occupied by farmers, on leases, on condition that the Griquas pay for such improvement? on these lands, under certain arrangements, but with which arrangements, as they now exist, the Griquas are dissatis- fied, and probably not without reason. As to the " alien- able territory," the treaty states that the Griquas are to receive the £300 per annum for "plaqes," i.e., farms held on lease for forty years. But the Government, instead of claiming tJiese farms only, claims at once the whole district, including many farms, say one hundred and fifty out of three hun- dred, which the people had either not let at all, or let only for shorter jieriods, as five, ten, or twenty years. Thus the Griqua proprietors are deprived at once of all further inte- rest in that property, against all equity, as well as against their own consent. They are not allowed to let the farms on which no leases had been ""aken, nor to have the benefit of the period between the short leases and the whole term of forty years. Altogether there are upwards of three hundred farms, or places, having fountains, of which the Griquas are thus despoiled. Nor is this all; for in the country defined as inalienable, the Boers already have about one hundred farms, held on leases of different terms from the Griquas, but the quit-rent of which the farmers now pay to the British Government, of whom they of course hold their leases. The farms in the inalienable territoiy the Griquas are to recover when the leases expire, on payment, by valuation to bo made immediately after the signing the treaty, of the buildings, &c., erected on the farms by tlie tenants, u 2-14 APPEAr, TO I.OFvD GREY. measure which they will not he ahle to accomplish without extreme difficulty, hut to Avhich I earnestly recommended their immediate and continual attention. I advised them to form a committee among themselves for that specific object. They have promised to adopt my suggestion of having two councils or hoards constituted; one as a muni- cipal council, to attend to the interests of the town itself and the other for the "places," or country hired out, and to devise and effect the best means in their power to recover the farms icithin the inalienahle territory. As the Governor no doubt intended this latter treaty, of 1848, to be a final arrangement, he possibly designed to include all the lands in the alienable territory, ivhatever might be the terms of leases granted on it : hut his treaty does not say so ; it limits his arrangements to the forty-years leases, and thus gives the prople a ground of appeal, which they have made, and to which his reply is, "that he intends the arrangement to be final ! " It is done with the sword of the soldier — but there is in it manifest injustice. As to the subsidy or compensation of £300 a-year, that does not alter the essential nature of the case ; £'200 of that is given to the chieftain, who had no power to dispose of the lands of his people, and the other £100 is said to be for them ; an amount which they neither ask for, nor accept. Finding that no appeal to the Governor could avail to obtain for the people such a revision of these measures as would secure to them justice, that is to say, a fair compen- sation for the property of which they are deprived — to say nothing of the arbitrary and undignified manner of obtain- ing the signatures to the treaty by intimidation, not befit- ting the " Representative and High Commissioner of Her Britannic Majesty" — I deemed it right to address the Eight Honourable Earl Grey on the subject, as Secretary of State for the Colonies. I wrote to his Lordship both from the Cape of Good Hope and the Mauritius, the latter containing a somewhat more complete view of the case than the fonner. These were transmitted to his Lordship from the Mission LETTER TO LORD GREY. 245 House, London, through Sir Edward N. Buxton, and by his Lordship copies were sent to Sir Harry Smith. It may involve a little repetition to insert these letters, but it may also tend to make the business still more in- telligible ; and it seems the more expedient to do so, as I shall have occasion to offer some remarks on the reply of Sir H. Smith to Lord Grey. My own letters, and the reply from the Governor, are inserted in the Blue Book laid be- fore the House of Commons, May 1851, entitled Papers on the Sovereignty between the Vaal and the Orange Rivers ; and these three letters I now proceed to place be- fore the reader. [No. I. Copy.] Letter from Rev. J. J. Freeman, addressed to Right Hoxourable Earl Ges:t, Her Majesty's Secretary of State for the Colonies, &c. &c. •' Cape Toicn, Cape of Good Hope, "May 20th, 1850. "My Lord, — "I reached Cape Town from England about fifteen months ago, as a Deputation from the Du'ectors of the London Missionary Society, for the purpose of visiting all their stations in South Afi'ica. I have just completed my tour of observation tlirough the colony, British Kafii'aria, part of Tambookieland, the Griqua and Bechuana countries, and a considerable portion of the British Sovereignty north of Orange River, I have also visited the Basuto country, and the Natal district. I am about to visit ISIauritius on my return liome, and hope to reach England about November next. " I would defer my communication to your Lordship till my return, but that I might thus possibly be too late to accomplish the object at which I aim. " My unnaediate business has been, as your Lordship will have perceived from the foregoing remark, in connection with the Mission- ary Institutions of the colony and the border tribes ; but in pursuing that object, it has been impossible not to observe the social condition of the people, and the influence of the political measures adopted by Q 16 LETTER TO I,Or>D GREY. the British Government in relation to them, on that social condition Hence, if in noticing these political relations, I am suspected it stepping out of my direct line, I must plead the fact, that both i\\i- religious and social condition and advancement of the people are mosi deeply affected by the political arrangements to which I allude. "I have seen, my Lord, that certain measures have been adopti'l in relation to the border tribes of this colony (I speak now especially of Griquas and Basutos), that involve, in my judgment, many things that are essentially unjust — in violation of previous treaties — at variance with instructions from yoiir Lordship's predecessors in office — injurious to the cause of Christian Missions, and ultimately to the peace and well-being of the colony. "At the present moment my aim therefore is to ask your Lordship, if it be not too late to do so, to suspend final decision regarding the Sovereignty north of the Orange River, and the policy of Sir H. Smith, so far as the border tribes are affected by the Sovereignty, until further information is placed before your Lordship. *' Permit me to express my conviction, my Lord, after having seen and conversed with the chiefs and people, that the general aim of his Excellency in proclaiming a Sovereignty is most valuable. The scheme of a Sovereignty is good ; the scheme, that is, of making the British power supreme, of preventing the further irregular intrusion of the Boers on the territories of the natives, and checking the mutual wars of the natives themselves. All this is of great value to the colony, to the Boers, and the native tribes. But I am bound to say that, in the details and the working out of that scheme, many things require immediate correction, especially the virtual repeal by Sir H. Smith of the first article in the treaty of Sir P. Maitland with the chieftain Adam Kok, of 5th February, 1846, the forcibly depriving the natives of so much land in defiance of that whole treaty, although confirmed by Her Majesty, and the severing also of so much territory from the Basutos for the sake of the Boers. "I am certain that, by these measures, we are committing great injustice, fixing a stigma on the British name, and creating a greater number of dissatisfied borderers, and a more inveterate hatred of the English name and Government than ever. " The natives, my Lord, have been deprived of large portions of LETTER TO LORD GREY. 247 territory, not of waste and unoccupied land, but of occupied and cul- tivated land ; deprived of it in defiance of their entreaties and remon- strances, and in opposition to treaties made and confirmed, as already referred to ; and which territory the native chiefs have been forced to surrender to the British Government, although having no right to part ■with it, and for which no adequate compensation is made. "These remarks, my Lord, apply most particularly to the Basutos comitry under Moshesh, and to the Griqua country under Adam Kok. " My earnest prayer is, that before the affairs of these countries, as now arranged by Sir II. Smith, are finally confirmed by your Lordship, there may be a special Commission of Inquiry appointed, that the voice of the people may be patiently heard, and their jvist claims met so far as possible ; and I venture to believe, my Lord, that this can be done without disturbing the general policy of Sir II. Smith. " These are the main points to which, from their urgency, I venture to solicit your Lordship's attention. " On my return to England, there are two or three other points on which I am desirous of offering some observations, with your Lord- ship's permission. I refer to the case of the native tribes beyond the Sovereignty, which are now reduced to vassalage, or being destroyed by the emigrant Boers — the preservation of native tribes now settling in Natal — -and the causes and conduct of the late Kaffir war. Possibly these might be matter of inquiry for the Commission. " My present object, however, relates mainly to the claims of the Basutos and the Griquas. " I hold that it is certain, my Lord, the aboriginal races of South Africa need not be crushed down, nor deprived of their lands, nor exterminated, if only justice and benevolence characterize the treat- ment they receive at the hands of the British Government. "I have, &c., " Right Hon. Earl Grey, "JOS. J. FREEMAlSr. "&c. &c. &c. "P.S. Any reply your Lordship may be pleased to favour me with, may be forwarded to the care of the Rev. Dr. Tidman, Blomfield- strect, Finsbury, London." 248 SECOND LETTER TO LORD GREY. [No. II. Copy.] To the Right Hon. Eakl Grey, Her Majesty's Secretary of State for the Colonies, &c. &c. "Port Louis, Mauritius, August 20, 1850. " My Lord, — " I beg most respectfully to refer your Lordship to my letter dated ' Cape To\\ii, 20th May 1850.' " As I may possibly not reach England quite so early as I intimated in that letter, I have thought it necessary to convey to your Lordship, •without further delay, some additional details of the case as it respects the Griquas and the Basutos, on whose behalf I ventxu-ed to submit to your Lordship the ad\-isableness of ' inquiry' prior to any final con- firmation of the measures of his Excellency Sir Harry Smith, Governor of the Cape, in relation to the ' Sovereignty north of the Orange River,' and the 'border tribes.' " The case regarding the Griquas is, in brief, this ; Sir Peregrine Maitland, late Governor of the Cape, aware of difficulties arising out of the settlement of Boers (or Dutch farmers) in Griqua territory, while stUl British subjects, drew, with the consent of the Griqua Government, a line of demarcation, separating the Griqua country into two divisions, one of which should be regarded as ' alienable,' and the other as ' inalienable.' * But the paramoimt right of the Griquas over the whole territory was distinctly stated in the treaty, and that treaty was confirmed by the Imperial Government. In the former division, the alienable, the Boers were permitted to take leases of the Griqua proprietors for any term not exceeding 'forty years ;' but from the latter division, namely the ' inalienable,' they (the Boers) were to regard themselves as excluded. " Subsequently, however, Sir Harry Smith, without any violation of the treaty on the i^art of the Griquas, and while these people were still our friends and faithful allies, and solely with the view of con- ciliating the Dutch farmers who had settled there, has alienated for ever from the Griquas that first division of their coimtry. He has * The Dutch terms are, "huurbaar" and " onhuurbaar," literally — ^leaseable and unleaseable. — J. J. F. SECOND LETTER TO LORD GREY. S49 affirmed and proclaimed that he should regard the whole of that division, for whatever term actually leased or not leased at all by the Griquas, as being virtually leased for forty years ; and that the whole of this should at once be taken from the Griquas, and constituted part and parcel of the British Sovereignty, to the exclusion of all right and claim on the part of the Griquas, — so that the farmers shoidd hold their farms of the British Government, to whom they should be required to pay a quit-rent. " To this measure the Griquas most m-gently and solemnly demur. They deem it unjust that they should be deprived of theii* lands without their consent, without having given any cause of offence, and also without adequate remuneration. They were 6o«a^(/e proprietors of their farms. The alienable territory alone contained about three hundred farms. About half that number had been leased to Dutch farmers for forty years, and the other half was either not leased at all or for various periods less than forty years. * "Sir Harry Smith's arrangements interfere with all the rights of private property. The chieftain, Adam Kok, had no power to dispose of the lands of liis people, it being property distmctly held by his subjects, and whose rights were as clearly recognized as in any civil- ized country. The Griqua right in the soil, as individuals, was also recognized by the Dutch farmers, in taking leases for terms of years of the Griqua proprietors. " Sir Harry Smith forced by intimidation the Government of Adam Kok to sign the treaty that dei)rivcs them of the said alienable territory ; but they appeal to the honour of Her Majesty's Government against that intimidation, and the treaty so forced out of them in defiance of all right and remonstrance. " The Gricjuas are not unwilling to part Avith that portion of their territory denominated ' alienable,' under equitable arrangements; but they consider themselves entitled to the riglit of leasing out for forty years all that portion of the territory wliich had not been let for that term, and also of leasing out such other farms as were let on leases of less than forty years, for such periods still as would make them equivalent to forty-year leases. " This claun I beg to subiuit to your Lordship as most reasonable and just. ^50 SECOND I.ETTKR TO LORD GREY. ""With regard to the inalienable territory, Sir Harry Smith has decided, that the farmers who hold farms there shall absolutely quit them at the expiration of the leases respectively, on the Griquas paying them the value of buildings, &c., erected on them, as per estimate, agreed to be made from the time of the treaty, January 1848. " It is true that the chieftain, Adam Kok, not only consented to an arrangement as to repayment for buildings, &c., but even originated the idea, as stated at the foot of the treaty, January 1848, and which proves the fairness and friendliness of the Griquas ; but in the actual working out of this arrangement the Griquas have much to comi^lain of. "With the details of their complaints on this head I am unwilling to trouble your Lordship ; but I submit that it will be only an act of common justice to hear and examine the complaints, in the event of any Commission of Inqxiiry being appointed. "Sir Harry Smith has granted to the Griquas £300 per annum, in lieu of all tlfcir claims on the land of which he has deprived them ; that is to say, £200 is granted to the chieftain, Adam Kok, and £100 to be divided among the proprietors of all those farms held by the Boers. "But with this arrangement they are dissatisfied ; for, although at the time of making that grant they might not be receiving so large an amount from the farms annually (and this is his Excellency's plea in justification of his measures), it must be recollected that the Griquas had let their farms on the payment of a stipulated sum, paid at once, and not by an annual rental. As the leases expired, they would have also let at an improved rental, and the other farms, which were not yet let, would also have let to advantage. Of this advantage the Griquas are wholly depriA'ed ; so that, in fact, they are impoverished, and not improved by the bargain Sir H. Smith has made. The £100 which his Excellency proposed should be divided among them, say about 5s. per head to each proprietor of a valuable farm, they disdain to touch, as being utterly imworthy of their acceptance, and as seeming to imply their acquiescence in so imjust a compromise of the matter in dispute. "The Griquas have repeatedly written to Sir Harry Smith to convey their remonstrances, but in vain. His Excellency regards the matter as finally settled ; and as they can obtain no redress in that quarter, they have earnestly solicited me to bring the subject under the atten- tion of Her Majesty's Government at home. I conversed with Sir I GRIQUA WRONGS. 251 H. Smith on these affaii-s, when lately at the Cape ; but finding that he regards his measures as final and imaltcrable, I have no alternative but to place them under the notice of your Lordship, persuaded, as I am, that the case involves a serious A-iolation of the first principles of justice. " The case of the Basutos is briefly this : — " In the year 1843, the colonial Government of the Cape obtained boundary Imes between the native tribes, under Moshesh, Molitsana, Sikonyella, and others, on the one hand, and the British territory on the other. Moshesh, the paramount chief, was satisfied with the boundary line, so far as it affected his relations ■with the colony ; so far as some of the lines aff'ected his relations -with, other chiefs, he was not so satisfied ; but that does not affect his remonstrances in relation to his own boundary line, as now changed by his Excellency Sir Harry Smith. " On the request of Sir Peregrme Maitland, Moshesh, subsequently to the arrangement of 184:3, gave up an additional piece of his territory for the accommodation of British subjects, and to express the sincerity of his friendship and good-will towards the British Government. "But by a new arrangement of October 1849, insisted on by Sir H. Smith, Moshesh is deprived of a large and valuable section of his territory, although occupied by his subjects to the number of 3000 or 4000 at least, and who inhabit some sixty or eighty villages. And this section of the country, acknowledged by the treaty of 1843 to belong to Moshesh without dispute, is taken from him to conciliate and accommodate a small number of Dutch farmers whom Moshesh had generously permitted to reside for a time in his territory, but with the distinct understanding that they had no claim upon the land. Moshesh has been compelled to sign a treaty or agreement accepting of this new arrangement, by measures that reflect no honour on the British name. Some old feuds subsisted between Moshesh and Sikonyella. Sir Harry Smith interposed his authority, and most humanely, as I think, insisted on both and all parties abstaining from mutual war, and referring their disputes to him. Major Warden, Resident at Bloem Fontein, summoned a meeting of chiefs to adjust their mutual difference, and promised a ' safe conduct' during their coming and returning, and severely threatened to punish all disturbers Q52 CASE OF MOSHESH. of the peace. Sikonyella, lioAvovcr, attacked the country of Moshesh, plundered much property, and destroyed much life. The latter appealed to Major Warden, and was then told, that if he would sign the new arrangement (wliich deprives him of so much of his country), measures should be employed to withdraw the invaders. To save his country from further devastation, and his people fiom m\irder, he signed the document, but protests against tliis flagrant breach of faith on the part of the English, this violation of the treaty of 1843, and this wholesale robbery of his country. Moshesh, who has been our most faithful ally ever since our first connexion with him, can obtain no redress either from the Resident, Major Warden, or from SirH. G. Smith. At his Tirgent solicitation, I therefore bring his case under youj Lordship's attention. I have stated as briefly as possible the broad facts of the case, and I am certain they could be substantiated on the spot, should your Lordship judge it expedient to appoint a Commission of Liqidry and Arrange- ment. "These measiu-es of Sir Harry Smith in reference to the Basutos me, I think, to be deprecated for the following reasons : — " 1. They are essentially and radically unjust. They involve, in plain terms, the robbery of a large section of country belonging to a friendly, deserving, but defenceless people.* " 2. They are ungenerous and cruel. The Basutos have been our faithful allies, whether in relation to Kaffir wars or the rebellion of the Boers. Facts much to the honour- of Moshesh and his people have been communicated to Her Majesty's Government by Sir H. Smith and his predecessors, and are ah-eady published in papers relatuig to South Africa, and laid before the House of Commons. " 3. They are impolitic. The colony of the Cape requires on its borders (whether the feeling of the Kaffijs or the Boers be contem- plated) decided and warm-hearted allies. The measures of Sir H. Smith have not only rendered the Basutos cold and suspicious, — * Sir H. Smith assured me, in reply to this charge, that the Basutos had territory enough, without the section taken from them. This is not true in fact, and though it were, it is not a justification of our measures — J. J. F. LETTKK FROM SIB H. SMITH. 253 they have irritated, goaded, and maddened them with vexation and disgust. "4. They are unnecessary. The farmers might have been remedied and provided for elsewhere ; or, if permitted to remain, a small portion of country could have been obtained for them from these very Basutos, by treaty and amicable arrangement, including fair compen- sation. (This same remark applies to the case of the Griquas; the territory which we really required we could have obtained without violence, violation of treaty, and injustice.) " It is not too late to do justice, and to satisfy the fail- claims of these injured tribes. " The annexed outline of a map will show the extent of land taken fi'om the Basutos, I submit, that the original boundary line of 1843 should yet be adhered to. Farmers who might be removed, by restoring the land to Moshesh, could be provided for abundantly in the yet un- occupied portion of the British Sovereignty, in the neighbourhood of Harrismith, where the land is excellent and a population required. " I have, &c., "London Missionary Society, "JOS, JOHN FREEMAN, " Blonifield-street, Finsbiiry, London," The following is a copy of a letter from Sir H. Smith, addressed to Earl Grey, in reply to my letter of 20th May, 1850, forwarded to him by his Lordship, 4th September, I presume that, when His Excellency forwarded this rejily, he had not received my letter dated 20th August, 1850, and which was sent to him by Eai4 Grey on the 28th of November, [No, III. Copy.] Copy of a Despatch from Governor SirH, G, Smith to Earl Grey. " King William's Town, Kaffvaria, '■'■January 20, 1851, "My Lord,— (Received March 13, 1851.) "I have the honour to acknowledge the receipt of your Lordship's Despatch, No. 51G, of the 4th September last, transmitting the copy of a letter addi-essed to you by the Rev. J. Freeman, Secretary to the i254 SIR H. smith's vindication. London Missionary Society, containing strictures upon my procedure in having proclaimed the Sovereignty of Her Majesty beyond the Orange River and up to the Vaal. My continued movements in British Kafiraria have prevented me from forwarding an early reply. " 2. Mr. Freeman admits the general soundness of the policy pursued, but objects to the manner in which it has been carried out. Judging of this gentleman by his proceedings while travellijig in this colony, I may here remark that, like all prejudiced men, he seeks for e\idence to strengthen his ov,ii preconceptions, and loses sight of the general bearing and \iew of the subjects upon which he has so freely commented. For this he has been severely criticised by the frontier press. "3. Upon my arrival at Bloem Fontem, in the begiiming of 1848,1 foiind that much ill-will existed between the Boers and the Griquas, with reference to a subject brought previously before your Lordship, that of the leases of forty years, upon which tenure the former held their lands from the latter in the 'inalienable' part of the country. Your Lordship is aware that, by Sir P. Maitland's treaty with Adam Kok, confirmed by Her Majesty, the territory occupied by that chief was divided into two portions, the ' alienable' and ' inalienable.' "4. I must here assure your Lordship, that Captain Adam Kok and his followers are mere squatters, and have no more hereditary right to the coiintry in question than the Boers themselves, who have been in the habit, for many years, for the sake of pastui'age, of driving their herds and flocks over the Orange Kiver. "5. After mature deliberation, and havmg consulted with Adam Kok, ^\ith the Boers, and with all the native chiefs, I proclaimed Her Majesty's sovereignty, in order to establish a paramomit authority in this debatable territory. Li this measure, the great principle by which I was guided was, that all the inhabitants, white and coloured, shoiild continue in possession of the farms and the territory occupied by them at the date of my proclamation ; but as serious disputes had constantly arisen with respect to boundai'ies, I determined, by the voice of general acclamation, to establish defined Hmits, and so put an end to these continual and pernicious quarrels. Iii carrying this into effect, it was unavoidably necessary, in consequence of the Dutch and the natives beiag much internuxed, to displace occasionally SIR H. SMITH S VINDICATION. 255 the inliabitants contiguous to the border, and cause them to retu-e to their own side of it. In some instances the Boers, in others the natives, were obliged to give way ; but Air. Freeman's general assertion, that a quantity of territory was taken from the latter for the sake of the former, is quite mifoimded. Captain Adam Kok's territory was preserved to him as it then stood, as regards both the ' alienable' and ' inalienable' portions. I never interfered with the latter in the most remote degree. The cliief himself suggested, that after the expiration of the forty-years leases in liis ' inalienable' territory, the Boers might purchase fi-om his people a future right, upon the con- ditions set forth in my additional treaty transmitted to your Lordship, This was Adam Kok's own proposal, and as it met the -nishes of the Boers, who were most desirous to possess their farms in perpetuity, it was agreed to, on the understanding that £300 a-year should be paid by Government to the Griqua chief. This arrangement was regarded at the moment by all parties as most satisfactory : and was certainly advantageous to Adam Kok, inasmuch as, by his treaty with Sir Peregrine Maitland, he was merely entitled to a portion of the quit- rents collected ; his share amoiintmg (as far as my memory serves me, for I have no docimient here to refer to) to about £G0 for one half year, and £70 for another similar period. He drew, in addition, and still di-aws, £100 per annum from the Colonial Government, and is thus In receipt of £400 per annum. I am not aware that the infrmgemcnt of a treaty, mutually agreed to by the parties concerned, and confer- ring a benefit upon each of them, can be regarded as objectionable, and in this case, the advantage was mutual to the Griqua as well as to the Boer. Adam Kok was at the time perfectly satisfied with the aiTangement, and continued to be so ujitil some months afterwards, when his Missionary, as I am informed, told him that I had mfringcd the treaty; failing, however, to point out at the same time the ad- vantages which he derived in consequence. He subsequently dis- missed his coimcillor and Secretary, Ilendrik Hendriks, because he was favom-able to the procedure in question, and likewise advocated the wish of the Boers to purchase a right in perpetuity from the people in the ' inalienable' territory. The Boers recently arranged with the Griqua people for the purchase of a piece of land for the site of a church, but to this Adam Kok also objected. Q56 sin H. SMITU's VINDICATION. " 6. TNTien society consists of the heterogenous elements of which it is composed beyond the Orange River, and when opposite interests prefer conflicting claims, that course is the best which contributes most to the general good. The great principle which guided me was, as I have already stated, not to disturb, but clearly to define the existing occupation ; and my arrangement has consequently improved the condition of all. "With regard to Moshesh, that chief has been deprived of no part of his territory ; its limits have merely been estab- lished, a measure tending as much to his own protection as to that of others. Mr. Freeman is in error "when he asserts that injustice attaches to any part of my procedure. He admits the general principle to be advantageous and correct. "7. I cannot refrain, my Lord, from adding, that if reverend gentlemen in the position of Mr. Freeman would take a comprehen- sive and not a contracted and prejudiced \iew of matters affecting the objects of their Mission, a greater degree of benefit would arise to the parties whom their laudable exertions are intended to civilize. " 8. With reference to the last paragraph of ilr. Freeman's letter to your Lordship, I would beg to obser^'e, that the principle there set forth is that by which I have for years been actuated in my inter- course with native races. The recent conduct of these incorrigible savages, the Gaika Kafiirs, may serve to demonstrate how far 'Mr. Free- man and myself have been correct in our views. Xo one, I imagine, will be prepared to assert, that since our occupation of British Kaf&a- ria, the greatest kindness and justice have not marked our treatment of the Kaffirs. Scarcely, however, had they emerged from the evUs and horrors of the last war, when they commenced in the most treacher- ous and cunning manner to prepare again for hostilities, "which they have now entered upon, accompanied by acts which the most merciless and irreclaimable savages alone could perpetrate. "I have, &c., (Signed) " H. G. SMITH. " The Right Hon. Earl Grey, " &c. &c. &c." 1 The passages contained in the above letters, respecting the Basuto country and its chieftain, Moshesh, anticipate LEAVING GRIQUA COUNTKT. 257 my observations respecting them, and may be referred to after reading the chapter entitled "The Basuto Country." I left the Griqua Country, not with feelings of unmixed satisfaction and confidence, but yet more impressed in favour of the people than I had expected to be. I think that some observations to their disadvantage, not unfre- quently made respecting them, are not without foundation; they would be improved by a larger infusion of energy, industry, simplicity, and humility. Perhaps they will be benefited by the admixture among them of the class called apprentices — men who were formerly slaves within the colony, or the descendants of such, and who have been trained by severe discipline to habits of activity. These bring a considerable amount of intelligence with them, and seem likely to become the most influential portion of the community. Some are already possessed of considerable property, and being sober and industrious men, they will acquire still larger property ; and I think it not unlikely that they will become the principal landholders in the independent territory, and the chief means of resisting the further encroachments of Europeans and colonists in that direction. CHAPTEE XII. BECHUANA COUNTRY AND BECHUANA MISSIONS. Daniel's kuil — kuruman fountain^eev. r. moffat — village- mission PREMISES GARDENS CHAPEL — MURDERS CHILDRE^ STOLEN DANGERS TO THE ABORIGINES PRINTING ESTABLISHMENI HAMHANA MISSION COMMITTEE TRANSLATIONS NATIVE TEACH- ERS LAY HELP ROUTE TO KOLOBENG MOTITO MIGRATOR! HABITS SITLAGOLE SUPERSTITION DRESS DESERT COUNTRY— MATEBE CONGREGATION MATZILIKATZE SOUTH AFRICAN WARS WHOLESALE MURDER MABOTSA THE CHIEF MOSELELE KHOO- DOO SERPENT WORSHIP ENORMOUS BOA-CONSTRICTOR KOLOBENC SECHELE. After taking leave of Mr. Read, now on his return tc Kat River, by Avay of Raraah and Philippolis, I set ou from Griqua Town for the Kuruman and the furthe: interior. Mr. Solomon and Mr. Hughes accompanied me and the rather, as it had been arranged that the Trans Orange River Mission Committee, of which they werl members, should meet at Kuruman at the time of m;' visit, thus affording us the opportunity of mutual counsel and deliberation. We bivouacked the first night at : place called, from the quantity of mimosas growing then "the Thorns." The next day we reached the out-statioi called "Daniel's Kuil," or den, an opening of small dimer sions in a limestone rock. The people have here a sma building that serves for a chapel and school-room. Her is a good spring, and about forty or fifty families might fin a sufficient supply of water. Waterboer purchased th KURUMAN. 259 spot of Berends some few years ago, and the Missionary Society, through Mr. Wright, purchased a portion of it for two hundred rix dollars — £15, for the uses of a native teacher. The second day after this, we reached, before midday, the Kuruman fountain, pouring forth a noble stream of water, and which is then conveyed by a water-course to Kuruman, about two miles distant. Here we met a man called Aaron, formerly a slave, but who, by his well-known integrity and industry, was able to bon^ow money, and redeem himself out of slavery. By the same means he subsequently paid the whole debt ; that is, he purchased himself, and paid, honestly paid the ransom price, and he has now a comfortable residence, and a good jiiece of cul- tivated land. We reached the Mission village of Kuruman about midday, and found Mr. and Mrs. Moffat ready to give us a cordial welcome. They had only one member of their family at home, who has since then become Mrs. Fredoux, of Motito. Mr. Fredoux is a Missionary from the Paris Missionaiy Society. We found that Mr. Helraore, of Lekat- long, a man of much excellence and amiability, had arrived, but that neither of the other Missionaries was expected. Dr. Livingston was too far distant, and had lately been much from home. His cattle also were all exhausted with the journey to the Lake. Messrs. Edwards and Inglis did not come, and Mr. Pioss was unable to leave home. The members of the jNIissiou Committee present, were, there- fore, Messrs. Moflat, Hamilton, and Ashton, all of Kuru- man, with Messrs. Helmoi'e, Solomon and Hughes. The village has a very pleasing appearance. The Mis- sion premises, with the walled gardens opposite to them, form a wide and long street. The chapel is an excellent stone building, and does the Missionaries great credit. It will last many years to come. Mr. Moffat's house is near it, on one side : a pleasant residence, such as I could wish every Missionaiy enjoyed; — not destitute of comforts, nor 2 CO SUNDAY AT KURUMAN. adorned for show. Mr. Hamilton's residence, on the other side of the chapel, is now occupied by Mr. Ashton ; and Mr. Hamilton, who is extremely feeble, occupies a small cottage on Mr. Moffat's premises, and finds, in the mater- nal care of Mrs. MolTat, a solace in his declining days. I found him in a calm and happy state of mind. He regards his work as done, and he is "waiting with his loins girded" for the summons that shall call him to his rest. The gardens are well stocked with fruit trees, — apricots, peaches, pomegranates, apples, vines, &c., and with various kinds of vegetables. These require a large supply of water, and the fountain yields that supply. Thus some few comforts are obtained by the Mission families, not a little needed in these distant regions of South Africa. On the Sunday which I spent there, the weather was most delightful. Soon after simrise a bell rang for an early service. ^Ye breakfasted at seven. At half-past eight the schools commenced. The infant school, under Miss Moffat's care, met in the infant school-house, and several classes met in groups in the open air, round the chapel and school, and others within those buildings. All were busily engaged for above an hour, when public ser- vice commenced. The chapel is spacious, lofty and airy. Many of the people were decently and comfortably dressed, and the whole aspect of the congregation was encouraging : a striking proof of the practical value of continued Chris- tian effort among a people. School was again held, and public service at half-past two ; the congregations were good throughout the day. On one side of the chapel, and near the door, sat a man, a stout, elderly, and intelligent looking man, who, with a few attendants, had come from a long distance, say two hundred miles east of Lekatlong, on a visit to Mr. Moffat, and to state the difficult circumstances in which the people of his district were being placed. He related, that some time since, a party of armed Boers came and demanded of the chief the orphans who might be there. The people MURDERS. 261 affirmed that they had none who were friendless and des- titute, since all orphans were taken care of by some of the friends and relatives of the deceased parents. After much altercation, and the steady refusal of the chief to give up the orphans, the Boers demanded the children of the people. The mothers ran to hide their children ; the Boers began to seize them and put them in their wagons ; the men in- terfered; the Boers fired, and in the I'esult most of the men were killed defending tlieir families, and the wagons were loaded with the children and driven off as booty! Against such outrages there seems no relief. The natives cannot withstand the power and fire-arms of the Boei'S ; and the latter are too far away, too numerous, and too scattered, to respect the remonstrances of the British Government, even supposing the latter in earnest in checking such unjust and cruel proceedings. Bv;t by such proceedings, many of the aboriginal tribes of South Africa, IB all these extensive regions which have been taken forci- ble possession of by the Boers, are diminishing, being in the first instance reduced to slavery, and must ultimately perish, unless timely aid be afforded. The natives become hemmed in ; they are surrounded by Boers ; their lands get occupied by strangers ; they are compelled to submit to new and oppressive laws ; aggressions are made, reta- liations arise, and at last the natives are cut off. It is often impossible to define the exact limits within which such things are done, or the parties by whom they are committed. But the territory is large, very large, and the tribes are numerous, where these melancholy events are transpiring. It might be worth the exercise of all the wisdom and humanity of the British Parliament to find some remedy. But at present it appears to me, that the prospects of the coloured races of South Africa, taken on the broadest scale, are such as Christian philanthropy may weep over. I see no prospect of their preservation for any very longtliened period. The struggle may last for a considerable time. Missionary effort may not only save 26!2 VILLAGE NEAR KUKUMAN. many of the souls of men, but help to defer the evil day of annihilation, as to many of the aboriginal tribes ; but that annihilation is steadily advancing, and nothing can arrest it tcithout an entire cliange in the system of Government, wherever British subjects come in contact icith the native tribes. To act in all cases on the broad principles of justice, " to do unto others as we would they should do unto us," might save them from ruin. But that supposes not only laiv in their favour, but men eveiywhere appointed to execute law, who will courageously "defend the right," and seek out the cause of the "poor and fatherless," and "save the souls of the needy." I visited, of course, the printing and bookbinding estab- lishment at Kuruman. The printing-office is an excellent and appropriate building, and in good condition, and it appeared to me to be well managed. Mr. Moffat has had much to do, till lately, in printing all that has issued from the press. For the future, Mr. Ashton will take the super- intendence of it, and Mr. Moffat devote his time and energy to the translation and revision of the Scriptures. A second Sunday which I spent in this neighbourhood, I passed at the village of Hamhana, usually described in the Society's Report as an out-station among the Batlaros, about twelve miles from Kuruman. A large number of the villagers had assembled near the chapel, many of them evidently in their heathen state, and making no profession of Christianity. I sujDposed that these would constitute the congregation, and that they were only waiting for our arrival. But to my surprise and gratification, on entering the chapel, I found it already/ full, and the native teacher holding some catechetical exercises. There must have been at least two hundred to two hundred and fifty natives present. Many of the rest from the outside squeezed in, and found room where there seemed no vacant space ; others remained about the doors, and listened to the word of truth. It seems that not fewer than one hundred of the members of the church COMMITTEES. 263 at Kuruman reside here. Before I left, one of the princi- pal people, and who acts as native teacher, came, and ex- pressed their desire to have a Missionary settled among them, and a better place of worship built. This latter point I had pressed on them in my address. My im- pression certainly was, that there were materials enough for the labour of a Missionary; and that, if one could be stationed there, the prospect of extensive usefulness was cheering ; and that, without such a plan, there could be no great improvement effected, as the Missionaries at the Kuru- man can do little for them, beyond a Sabbath-morning ser- vice, and an occasional visit, and the people require the con- stant 2^ resence, influence, and efforts, of a resident Missionary. During my visit to Kuruman, we met frequently in committee, and amply discussed all the various points of business that came suitably under our consideration. These I need not I'elate here. They formed the basis of my communications with the Directors of the Missionary Society, and will tend, I think, to the comfort of the Mis- sionaries, and the progress of the great work which they have in hand. One regulation was adopted, which I think will be beneficial, — namely, the separation of the Committee into two divisions, one embracing the Missionaries identi- fied with the Bechuanas, and the other those identified with the Griquas. This will simplify the objects of their attention respectively, and save much undesirable expen- diture of time in travelling, and the absence of the Mis- sionaries from their stations. Thus closed my visit to Kuruman. The congregation was rather smaller than on some other stations, but the field is important. It is the recognized home and centre of many families of Christian B(3chuanas ; it is an appro • priate sphere altogether for Mr. Moff'at, especially in re- lation to his department of translation — the translation of the Scriptures, with which a more extensive pastorate would be incom])atible, even thougli he had the aid of other brother Missionaries. Kuruman is the hit'h road to 264 NATIVE TEACHERS. the interior, and is a source of influence in numerous directions. It must therefore, I think, he encouraged and vigorously maintained. Mr. Ashton and Mr. Moffat co- operate cordially as fellow-lahourers. In the course of five or seven years, it is likely that another Missionary w^ill be required for the station. Mr. Hamilton is already past labour, and Mr. Ashton will be required for the local sen'ices, including the printing. Mr. Moffat's time may be most advantageously directed to translation, and he should be exempted from the service of itinerating, which involves a great outlay of time. Constant effort must also be expended in training youths, with the hope that some of them may become native teachers. Of this latter class there are scarcely any at present, such as would meet the wishes, views, and expectations of the churches and Di- rectors at home ; few of general intelligence, combined with scrijjtural knowledge, possessing the art of reading well, and having the power and skill to communicate spiritual knowledge to others. I fear there is little prospect, at present, of theological students being found. There are no young men in the churches to whom this description can apjDly. There are young men in the churches, but they are for the most part married, and busy with their secular interests, and unwilling to give up these for the work of teaching. They are neither in- tellectually, socially, nor spiritually qualified to become students, with the view to their becoming native teachers and evangelists: It appears to me that the whole work of such preparation must be commenced and carried on, with that view, from the very beginning. TnteUigent lads must be secured, if practicable, and trained up in general and religious knowledge from childhood, mider the immediate care and guidance of the Missionary. The Mission pre- mises must be their home ; they must be secluded not only from the heathen portion of the community, but from their home, habits, customs, and occupations, even though the parents may be Christians, lest they imbibe that love of a LAY AGENCY. 265 life amidst flocks and herds, by which all the natives seem animated. It may be important also to consider, as a means of aiding the evangelization of South Africa by native effort, whether some considerable native assistance may not be found among the senior members of the churches, men whose piety is tried and fomid stedfast, whose gene- ral intelligence and character may justify their being so employed, and on whom the Missionary may successfully employ some special effort, still further to qualify them for the service, although it may be impracticable to bring them under a regular course of tuition, such as might be contemplated for students. Such men have been sent forth by the churches in the South Sea Islands ; such have been found in India; such are a few I have met with here in South Africa, and such an one was our martyred friend Paul, in Madagascar. These men may experience difficulty in learning to read, if their conver- sion takes place in adult age, and if they have then to commence the art of reading. But however imperfectly they may succeed, it may still be worth while to secure their services, and to employ them as far they can be made available. Teachers in the schools, or senior scholars in the schools, may read for them, where they fail themselves in doing it. Their visits, their conversa- tions, and their addresses, may all be extensively useful, even though unable to read fluently themselves. Their experience, their deportment, their piety, their simple statements, may all render great service in the cause, and they may prepare the way for others ; just as in the islands of the South Seas, of which Mangaia forms so striking an illustration of the value and efficiency of these labourers. The next stage of my journey was to Kolobeng, the station occupied by Dr. Livingstone, and at present the most northern of our stations in South Africa. I had received letters from Dr. Livingstone, pressing on nio not to consider my visit completed, till I reached as far as Kolobeng; and having resolved on proceeding thither, 266 UEV. R. MOFFAT. arrangements were made for tlie purpose. I was glad I succeeded in prevailing on Mr. Mofiat to accompany me. I knew that his doing so would render my journey not only the more agi'eeable, on account of his companionable qualities, but the more useful, from his familiar acquaint- ance with the people, and the value of his extensive in- fluence. And haj^pily, while he himself was nothing loath to meet my wishes, though involving an absence of some three months from his home, his excellent wife cheerfully assented to the arrangement, and admirably provided for our comfort with bread and meal, and pre- served fruits, such as do not fall to the lot of every African traveller. Their daughter Ann was to accompany her father in his wagon, and though South Africa is not the most inviting country in the world for ladies to travel in, their society and their senices are not the less acceptable to those of the harder sex who happen to be favoui-ed with them. We outspanned the first evening about seventeen miles from Kuruman, at Makkwarrin, and finished the rest of the journey to Motito the next day, being a stage of twenty- three miles further. This is a station in connexion with the Paris Missionary Society. There were formerly two of their Missionaries stationed here, Messrs. Lemue and Lauga. These have removed to Carmel, in the Easuto Country. The chapel holds about two hundred. About one hundred persons assembled at an early hour, to hear an address from us. I pressed on them the necessity of guarding against their restless habit of emigrating from place to place in quest of new localities. They get tired of a place without any specific reason, just as men get tired of objects they are familiar with. They then " trek," set out on a journey, taking their families, flocks, and herds with them, and wander about to great distances. In this way the village of Motito was almost abandoned. Four small kraals, or villages, constitute its range of population. Mr. Fi-edoux was expecting that the peopk CHANGES IN SOUTH AFRICA. 267 wlio had emigrated from Motito would return, not finding the new and unoccupied country which they anticipated. The Boers are before them, and the land is occupied. This immense emigration of the Boers, far beyond the (•(ilonial boundary, is evidently working out a great change in all the interior of South Africa, and it bears very gravely on the question of Missions among the native tribes. It places every measure in perplexity and difficulty, in con- nexion with the prosecvition of Missions there. Tribe after tribe is swept away, and the labour of the Missionary is lost. By the time the Missionary may have succeeded in bringing the people under the influence of instruction, they are hemmed in by the Boers, their country and re- sources become more and more limited, they are driven to desperation, and then either emigrate, scatter themselves from one another, and are lost, or they quarrel with their invaders in self-defence, and are then attacked and van- quished by the superior arnls and skill of the white man. Of this fatal process many instances are now occurring ; and I again say, I fear thei*e is great difficulty and greater unwillingness on the part of Great Britain, though really responsible for these things, in attempting anything like adequate interference. With regard to Motito, my impression certainly was, that if it continued to have only its present scanty population, it would scarcely be worth while to maintain it as a prin- cipal station. At the distance of about six days' journey from Motito, there are some populous settlements of natives, such as Sitlagole, of which Mochuana is chief. The people are Barolongs. Mr. Lemue was in the habit of itinerating there. But to visit them requires an absence of three weeks, two of which are expended in travelling there and back again, and one in remaining witli them. At a station like Motito, where there is but one Missionary, this scheme cannot be effected without the neglect of the principal station. My visit to Motito strongly confirmed niv idea 208 SERVICE BENEATH A MIMOSA. that a Missionary planted alone among the heathen, especially an vmmarried man, could do hut little for the improvement of the population. He may teach a few childi'en, and he may preach on the Sabbath, but the entire machinery of a resident Christian family is wanted, with all its social influences. The Missionary wife is required, for the sake of her influence, and example, and instruction, for the native women, among whom an unmarried Mis- sionary can have no influence. I should suggest, that wherever a station is not sufficiently important to justify a Society in jDlacing there two Missionaries, and at any rate one of them a married man, it should not be maintained, except as an out-station connected with some more im- portant sphere. From Motito we travelled foi-ward to Sitlagole, in the country of the Barolongs. Nearly all the people wear the native kaross. A few have some articles of European clothing ; the children have so little of either, that they could not have less. Mr. Moff"at addressed them in the open air, from beneath, not a broad spreading English beech or oak, but a large mimosa, in an enclosure sur- rounded by a fence of dry thorns. About two hundred of the natives collected around, and sat on the ground and listened attentively. Their countenances are good, and indicate a capacity for intelligence. Some few of the vil- lagers had learned to read the New Testament, and to use the Hymn Book in the Sichuana language. The Baro- longs are a tribe of the Bechuana nation, and of course use the Sichuana language. The village occupies a con- siderable space of ground. Each family has its own en- closure, a circular fence of thorn sticks, and within that the hut, round and low, made of reeds, with a roof pro- jecting some little distance beyond the props that support it. The natives seem rich in cattle, and cultivate, I under- stand, a good quantity of Indian corn. Their supply of water, which comes up through a bed of sandstone, is sufficient for domestic uses, but not for the irrigation of NATIVE SUPERSTITION. 269 land. The name of the chief is Mochuana. I called, with Mr. Moffat, to see him. He is aged, blind, and very- deaf. He is much respected, and has been a man of peace ; and although not embracing Christianity himself, he has always respected and encouraged the Missionaries. He and his people are e.xtremely superstitious on the subject of rain-making. But without adequate instruction how can it be otherwise ? How can they hear except there be a preacher? How can truth reach them unless from without? They cannot deliver their own soul, nor say, "Is there not a lie in my right hand?" What glorious enter- prises of humanity and mercy may the Christian church enter on, if in earnest ! An anecdote is related here in illustration of the siiper- stition of the people in all matters pertaining to rain. It occurred some time ago, while the Eev. Mr. Lemue was residing here, that a horse died at the village, at a time when rain was much wanted. Mr. Lemue very properly had the carcase of the animal dragged away to a great distance, to avoid the evils arising from its putrefaction in so hot a climate. This act became a matter of great con- sultation, and it was decided in some way, that this drag- ging to a distance the remains of the dead horse, prevented the rain coming ; and the chief above-named actually sent men, with leathern cords, to drag it again to the village, and there it was placed, at no great distance from Mr. Lemue's house, and left to decay ! After that, I presume rain came, but how soon the deponent said not. The chieftain, I think, as a man of common sense, must have been a little ashamed of it, for he sent a message to Mr. Moffat, some time after, to assure him it was not his doing, but that of the people. Several of the people in this part of the country, the women especially, have their hair dressed, or rather be- daubed and beplastered, with the glittering material, a kind of plumbago mixed with grease, of which Campbell, Moffat, and other travellers, have given an account. Of Q70 BECHUANA FASHIONS. course it is fashion, and purely a matter of taste. For me it has no charms, neither fragrance nor beauty ; but to tliem, I presume, it has many. It struclc me as being about as admirable a custom as that which till lately pre- vailed in polished England itself, the custom of dressing the hair with " powder and pomatum ;" the white powder would seem appropriate to a white population, and the black powder to a swarthy population, — at any rate more so than the reverse in each case would be. During a further portion of the journey, we found no- thing worthy of notice for a whole day; we passed no villages, fountains, streams, nor cultivated lands ; no huts, gardens, flowers, nor fruits ; neither man, nor bird, nor beast. There were a few shrubs, and some stunted tufts of grass. A more indescribable, desolate, dreary, and uninteresting spot, cannot Avell be imagined, — utterly devoid of materials for the poet, and little for the philo- sopher — ex nihilo nihil fit. After halting for the night, we again started on our journey. Heavy rains had fallen during the night, and the morning was fresh and cool. Our cattle found rain water to quench their thirst, in small natural hollows on the surface of the granite rock over which we were passing. This seems to be all a granitic country. Usually the rock is slightly covered with a small quantity of soil, a kind of reddish sand, but for a large extent, it is the bare rock that forms the surface. We passed a fine block of syenite, about fourteen feet high and four feet in thickness. Fel- spar predominates here. Much of the granite consists entirely of felspar and quartz. There is also micaceous schist. We observed immense quantities of locusts at a little distance from us, and large flights of the locust-bird also, by which incredible numbers of these destructive bisects are consumed. We found all this immense tract of countiy, this seem- ingly interminable plain, absolutely and literally unoccu- PURCHASE OF DELAGOA BAT. 271 pied. Here is space enough for thousands, provided water could be found. In many places the soil is rich, in others it is shallow and poor; but if some stream or canal could be led out from the Vaal, thousands of acres of com might be cultivated, and thousands of an impoverished population find subsistence. The Vaal Eiver flows at about five days' journey on the right of the line of road I was now passing over. On our left there were no inha- l)itants. We were met there by the great Kallaharri desert, and in that dry and thirsty land no inhabitants are found. Our direction from the Kuruman had all along been north- east. We travelled about twenty miles daily, occupying eight hours in that limited transit ! It has sometimes struck me whether it might not be a great benefit to Africa, if England would purchase Delagoa Bay from the Portuguese, and their whole line of coast on the east of Africa, including Mosambique. It might also be made of great service to England. We should thus at once open a friendly communication with all the tribes in the interior of Eastern, Central, and Southern Africa. This communication might be extended to the Great Lake, lately discovered, and the tribes bordering on it. It would enable the British Government also to exercise its influ- ence and control over the emigrant Boers, who are now spreading themselves so widely over these regions, and destroying so many native tribes. A vast field would thus be opened to enterprise, commerce, humanity, emigration, and direct Missionary eff'ort. We now crossed the Malopo, and halted for the night at about ten miles' distance from Raputse. We saw the landmarks (baken) set up by the Boers, north-east of the Malopo, as a sign of their claiming all the land within the limit — one step in the process of dispossessing the abo- rigines of their territoi'}'. Next day Mr. Moffat and I separated for a sliort time. He proceeded direct to KololK,'ng, and I arranged to take Matebe and Mabotsa on my way. 273 NATIVE CUSTOMS. About tliveo miles beyond the point where we left each other, I canie to a hill, crossed the sunnnit, ivnd lindins. tlie descent of it sharp, stony, and difficult, I halte there for the night, and knew, from the barking of the village watch-dogs, I could be at no great distance Iron Matebe. Next morning, Mr Inglis, our Missionary, came up to our encampment, and I accompanied him back to his cottage. The village consists of about three hundred huts. It has been but lately constructed, and is similar in character to that of Sitlagole. Moiloi is the chieftain, a friendly, sensible, kind-hearted man. The population oi the village is about fifteen hundred ; viz., three hundred men, six hundred women, and six hundred children. Not more than about twenty children attend the school. It does not appear that Christianity has yet obtained any in fluence here. The chief, however, and many of his people, attend the public worship on the Sunday. There is a small class of young men, Hottentots and Bastaards, who can read the Dutch Testament, and a few native women read the Sichuana Testament, with some facility. During the public services, I observed a few only of the people wearing Eiu-opean clothing. Nearly all were clad in the native costumes — abundance of charms and ornaments round the neck, beads, necklaces, armlets and anklets — old skins, shaggy, ragged, and torn, over their shoulders, — the hair plaited, twisted, gi'eased and sprinkled with the black glittering powder of which they seem so fond — many from head to foot rubbed over with red ochre — none washed — women with large fur caps or bon- nets, and all handling jackal tails as fans, to scatter the flies, so tempted and lured by the grease of their adorning. They listened attentively, and that is a point of im- portance gained. Not long since they were all noisy and loquacious. And still many of their habits require not a little correction, and a preacher must not be troubled with too much refinement of scent, or he may be greatly MAT?:rrjKATSE ROUTED. 273 annnj'od and ineommodoJ. We must bear patiently with huKiiui iiilinuities. Moiloi is the chieftain residing here. He called on nie immediately after my arrival, and 1 had o2')i)ortunities of l(^n.L;l]iened conversation with him. He accompanied Mr. In,L;lis and m3'self to the summit of the adjoining hill. We went to obtain a view of the surrounding country, and especially the range of hills on which Mr. Campbell found the town called Kurrecheene, which was the extreme i)oint of his journey northward. That town has disappeared. The p('o2)lc wei-e attacked and routed by the tribes of the Mantatees. They then settled near the Mosega, and were again driven from thence to their present residence by Matzilikatze, who for a long period spread devastation throughout all this region. His power was subsequently broken by the attack of other tribes from various quarters, and still further by the Boers, on whom he himself had previously made attacks. His present condition, as to numerical strength, T could not ascertain. He was still believed to be powerful, but not sutftciently so, to enable him to attack successfully the ti'ibcs around him. The ]>oers claim this country as theirs, including the Mosega, on the ground of having driven out the powerful and tyrannical Matzilikatse. But, even admitting that driving out a common enemy gives a right of occupation, the Boers cannot fairly claim it for themselves, to the exclu- sion of native tribes, who have had their full share in ivsisting, and ultimately overcoming this great scourge of Sniilh Africa. The African aboriginal tribes have long licen in a state of perpetual warfare — an inter-tribal and most destructive warfare. The stronger have made suc- cessful wars on the weaker, and instead of the cultivation of the land, and the gradual advancement of the people in civilization, their soil has been saturated with Iniiiiaii blood ; their occupation has been rapine, devastation, and murder; thousands of women have been made widows, and th<;ir children oi'phans ; property has been pillaged T 274 AGGRESSIONS BY THE BOERS. and towns destroyed. Within the last thirty or forty years, the great warriors have been Chaka and Dingaan among the Zooloos ; Mantatee, queen of the Mantatees ; Matzilikatse of the Matabeles ; Makkaba of the Wankeets, to say nothing of the inferior warriors and petty tribes, or the wars in the south among the Kaffirs. These wars among the tribes themselves, have been terminated for some time past, by the Boers coming in, and occupying the territory. Yet in this circumstance, again, there has been inflicted immense injustice and oppression on the one hand, with suffering, loss, and ruin, on the other. What the amount of actual suffering has been, no one can ascertain ; no one is fully acquainted with the num- bers and condition of the tribes that occupy the large extent of territory now possessed by the Boers ; no one can ascertain how many of these have utterly perished, how many have migrated elsewhere, how many remain among the Boers, and voluntarily serve them, or how many have been reduced to slavery. It is, perhaps, ques- tionable, whether the reports respecting the ravages said to have been committed by the Boers, have not been exaggerated ; yet it cannot be doubted that they have committed very serious aggressions on the aboi'igines, have inflicted harsh and arbitraiy punishments, and have taken not only immense quantities of cattle, but also large numbers of children, to be used as slaves in fact, although not so called. It is conjidenthj reported that they have sold them to one another, at about one pound per head, and in default of cash, an equivalent has been given, a horse, a cow, or a few sheep. Possibly there may be some exaggeration in the account published three years ago in the letter of a "Traveller," in the " Commercial Advertiser," in which the Boers are said to have attacked a native tribe and cut off 4000 of the people, and burnt to death in a cave some who had escaped there, by means of dry fuel collected for the purpose, and with which the mouth of the cave was filled up. This ADDRESSING THE HEATHEN. 275 report, it is thought, may have been exaggerated as to numbers, since no large tribe has lately existed that could have offered so many victims. But I have been assured, on most credible testimony, that there is no ground to doubt the general truth of the statement ; so that, granting it to be rather over-coloured, enough remains to awaken in us horror at such enormous cruel- ties. One shudders at the very thought, that baptized men, bearing the Christian name, could so transform themselves into demons and monsters, as to perpetrate such enormities. There is a God in heaven to avenge sucli abominations — but is there no human arm that can interpose to arrest them ? Has Great Britain neither the power nor the right to interjiose and restrain her own subjects from such deeds of violence? or, by crossing a boundary line, do men lose their responsibility and the Government its authority ? From Matebe I proceeded to Mabotsa, the station of our Missionary Mr. Edwards, formerly of Kuruman, and spent the Sunday afternoon and evening in attending the public services there. About 200 natives were present in the afternoon, and a few who live in the vicinity of the Mission premises met in the evening. These are of the tribe of Balvhatlis, and belong to the Bechuana nation. Tliere is great difficulty in addressing suitably a con- gregation of heathens, both in finding the right materials and the appropriate illustrations. There is so little in their minds to which we can address ourselves — no general knowledge to which any appeal can be made, or from which illustrations could be brought — no Biblical know- ledge, to which an appeal in the way of authority might be impressively made. Our ideas of God, of sin, the soul, salvation, law, grace, the resurrection, or eternity, can find nothing in their thoughts or reasonings, if they reason at all, with which to harmonize. Hence so much of the preaching of the Missionary must be to them incomprehensible, and they wonder that so much pains 276 THE CHIEF MOSELELE. are taken to make them understand what they do not value, and to appreciate what they do not understand. It does not appear that any conversions to Christianity have yet taken place among these people. There is a little band united in the fellowship of the Gospel, of members from other churches ; excepting these, it seems as though all remained in their heathen state. And yet, one cannot see them, and address them, and converse with them, and hear their own shrewd remarks, without the conviction that they are, mentally, as capable of receiving Christianity as other men ; that, if they had but the " honest and good heart," the seed of the Word would produce its fruit in them as well as others. There are no indications of any want of mere intellectual capacity. They have well-formed heads, intelligent countenances, keen and penetrating eyes, with nothing vacant, absent, sullen, or uninipressible, and yet they remain heathen : reminding one of the affecting vision of the prophet, the valley " full of dry bones," till the Spirit of the Lord breathed, and the slain lived. Moselele, the high-spirited, but somewhat selfish and passionate young chieftain, was absent from home on my arrival. He was at one of his cattle posts, but the principal one of his six or seven wives called and told me he had been sent for, and would soon reach home. He came, and after some conversation promised that he would summon his people to a public meeting, when I might have the opportunity of speaking to them on the subject of education, &c. He asked me whether the women also should attend. I inquired of him whether he did not consider that their women were u-ise women, and if so, of course they should attend. Accordingly we had a very large assembly of men, women, and children. The attendance of women on such occasions is quite a new thing. They listened attentively and patiently to all I had to say; Mr. Edwards kindly interpreted for me. And tliere was no little interest in such a scene — all the inha- COMMANDO AGAINST KHOODOOS. 277 bitants of a village in the heart of South Africa, collecting around two European teachers, to discuss the matter of Christian education for the native children in the Mission- school already established — the meeting being held in the open air, around a large tree in the centre of the village, and contiguous to the chieftain's house, and he himself enforcing by urgent recommendations, that the children should attend the school. Here was nothing like irreclaimable savagism ; only too much of the inoffen- sive apathy, nonchalance, and levity of heathenism. Considerable damage had been done lately in the gardens of the people by the khoodoo, a large animal of the size of a heifer or young cow. A general hunt was resolved on. It took place while I was there ; and in compliance with Mr. Edwards's request to their chief, Moselele, the people all passed near his house on starting, that I might have the opportunity of seeing them. They mustered about 200 men ; they were nearly all armed with spears and shields ; a few had fowling-pieces. Their intention was to surround the hill, in the bush or jun- gle of which these animals lurk. But before they could succeed in doing so, the khoodoo marauders, as if they had got scent that a commando was out against them, prudently decamped, and ran off in single file between the extremities of the two wings, now closing in upon them. I requested the chief to bring me home the skin of one of them, which he politely did. While at Mabotsa Mr. Inglis came over from Matebe, that we might have as many opportunities of conversa- tion as possible during my stay in Baharutseland. I was amused with a little incident that happened on the occasion. Moselele, the chief, came in to strike a bar- gain with him for the purchase of a favourite cow. This people have their fancy cows, heifers, and oxen, just as our more civilized Europeans have their fancy for horses, dogs, and birds. He came to offer a kaross for the said cow, but which was not really worth it. He is said 278 cow AND KAROSS EXCHANGE. to be niggardly. The question of the exchange of the kaross for the cow was referred to me, as being a " great man among the wliite men," and I gave it as my opinion that it was beneath the dignity of a great chief to be squabbling about the value of a poor cow ; that I should recommend the Missionary to make him a present of it ; and then, at some future time, I thought the chief might make a present worthy of a chief to the Missionary, and might say to him, " There, you are travelling about with your wagon, for the good of my people, accept a span of oxen." The people sitting round Moselele thought this was good, especially that the Missionary should give the coiv. The chief promised, that whenever the Missionary wanted a span of oxen, he would lend him his own, and if one happened to die on the road, or if one were killed and eaten, or in any way missing, nothing should be said about it. The result Avas, that the chief was to have the cow and calf, and Mr. Inglis to receive the kaross and a young ox ; shortly after which the tiger-skin kaross was transferred by the Missionaiy to my wagon as a souvenir, and the chief had his fancy gi'atified, and was so far a happier man. It is about two days' journey from Mabotsa to Kolobeng. Part of the comitry is very lovely. Just before reaching Kolobeng, the road passes through a valley or defile between ranges of hills about 600 feet high. Trees and gi-aceful shrubs are abundant. I found the mimosa in full flower, with its bright-yellow heads, actually per- fuming the air with its delicious fragi'ance. I saw scarcely any game. A few klioodoos passed in sight. It is a lion country, but none ventured, or had sufficient curiosity to come near us. A farmer, in passing lately this same road, saw ten in company, and another had the gratification of counting no less than thirty — a sight that would have thrown Mr. Gordon Gumming into ecstasies, and many others into fits. Mr. Edwards has had many opportunities here of test- SERPENT WORSHIP. 279 ing the fact, that the people venerate and worship ser- pents ; this is stated also in D'Arbousset and Daumas's journeys among the Basutos. Mr. Inglis also men- tioned to me various circumstances of a similar kind. The worship is not confined to any one particular species of serpent, but is extended generally to all. A woman was seen one day worshipping a small serpent, and over- heard praying to it the uniqiie and selfish prayer, " Give rain to my garden ; let me have plenty ; and let there be nobody in the world bul; you and me." On meeting a serpent in the road, a woman will take off some of her beads and offer them as a present or sacrifice, in token of veneration. They are regarded as representing, in some way, their departed ancestors ; and hence, one has been heard addressing a serpent, and saying, " Ah ! I see in your eyes my former chief." These are additional facts which serve to illustrate the doctrine of the almost universal worship of serpents, — one of the strangest ano- malies in the religious history of mankind. Yet, on some occasions, they do not hesitate to kill these objects of veneration. Moiloi told us of an immense serpent which he had met with when out on a hunting expedition with some of his people. This enormous serpent was hanging from the bough of a large tree, and was killed only after a desperate struggle. It measured fifty feet in length. This was ascertained by a mnnber of men lying down at full length by its side. It took nine men to reach from the head to the tail, and was of prodigious girth round the body. I could obtain no further description of it. It was, perhaps, a boa con- strictor. There are two villages at Kolobeng, one occupied by the Bakwains (or Baquecns,) and the other by the Bakaa. Of the former there is a population amoimting to 2'584, of the latter 1236, forming together a total of ^OSO. Some of the statistics collected by Dr. Livingston possess considerable interest. One could wish that similar statis- 280 STATISTICS OF KOLOBENG. tics had been kept at all the stations, as indicating the comparative influence of heathenism and Christianity upon the population. At the same time, the niigi'atory habits of the people would throw considerable uncer- tainty over the records, unless kept with gi'eat exactness. Dr. Livingston states, that at Kolobeng 157 mono- gamists have 193 children; and 121 polygamists 259 children ; that there are 18 polygamists having 40 wives but having no children ; and 39 monogamists Avho also have no children ; that, in taking a census of the Bakaa there were found — Men above fourteen years of age . . . .361 Women 423 Boys under fovirteen ...... 197 Girls • . 255 1236 Of the 361 men, 2 have four -wives. 25 have three wives. 94 have two wives. 121 Polygamists. 157 Monogamists. 83 Unmarried. The chief, Sechele, has made an open profession of Christianity, and has been baptized. He is regular in his attendance at public worship, and has family worship every evening. His appearance is prepossessing; he is about thirty-five years old, tall and well-proportioned > his complexion is dark, his countenance intelligent, and his manners easy and agreeable. His hair is plaited in the same manner as the Malagasy ; his di'ess is wholly European. He is the husband of one wife. The people, with their chief Sechele, removed from Chonuana, for the professed pm-pose of being near the teacher, and within reach of his instructions. For themselves they Avere not under the necessity of changing their location, as the supply of water was suflSi- HISTORY OF SEOHELE, 281 cient for their cattle and their domestic wants, and as they do not use artificial irrigation, a comparatively small supply suffices. The chief himself may have felt really anxious to be near Dr. Livingston, for the sake of pro- fiting by his instructions ; and he may have sincerely desired this advantage also for his people ; but it is clear, in all these cases, that the natives are partly influenced by the hope that the Missionary may render them some political service, and afford them some protection against the intrusion of their troublesome neighbours. When Sechele was a lad, an attack was made on his father's countiy by a chief from the north, of the name of Sebetoana. The invading party was victorious, and many of those attacked were left slain on the battle-field, Sebetoana directed his people to find, if they could, any surviving members of the lamily of Sechele's father, to take care of them, and to bring them to him. The father had fallen in battle, but the youth Sechele was found and taken to Sebetoana ; he was kindly received and care- fully brought up. After reaching maturity, Sebetoana one day said to him, " I made war on your father and subdued him, but I have no wish to make war on you ; and now I give you your choice : you may either remain with me, and I will provide you with cattle and all that you need, as my friend, or you may return, if you prefer it, to your own country, and we shall be on friendly terms with one another." Sechele decided on the latter course, and has maintained occa- sional and friendly communications with his father's enemy and his own preserver. This Sebetoana is the chieftain of the people north of tlie newly discovered lake, and with whom he endeavoured in vain to find the means of making some communications. The Kuruman station, occupied by the Rev. Robert Moffat and his faithful coadjutors, was long the advanced post of Missions in Sovith Africa. It was nut until his return from England that other enterprising Missionaries 282 MUKRAT AND OSWELL. moved fonvard to regions still more northward. Of those. Dr. Livingston has been honoured to commence a station at Kolobeng, which is more than 200 miles N.E. by N. from Kuruman. This he did with the view of seizing tlie first opportunity of advancing to the more populous regions which were supposed to lie yet further north. In the month of July last, an opportunity was presented to this enterprising Missionaiy of gratifying his long-che- rished purpose, by the visit of two benevolent travellers, Messrs. Murray and Oswell, who requested his co-opera- tion in attempting to cross the desert, and exploring the unknown regions to the north. This overtm-e Mr. Living- ston gladly embraced, unintimidated by the hardships or dangers of the undertaking ; and, through the gracious providence of God, the effort has been crowned with dis- tinguished success. The point reached is upwards of 300 miles directly north-west of Kolobeng, and, consequently, little short of 600 miles from Kuruman ; while the character of the inhabitants appears to present both powerful claims and encouragements to futm-e Missionaiy effort. But the dis- covery of large inland rivers running from the north — that hitherto terra incognita — seems to open a highway for the progress of the Gospel in the interior of Africa, on ■which we tmst our faithful Missionaries will be permitted shortly to enter. At the time of my visit to Kolobeng, at the close of 1849, Dr. Livingston had lately returned from his tour, of which I found he had recently conveyed a gi-aphic de- scription to the Kev. Dr. Tidman, dated from the banks of the river Zouga, September 3, ] 849, with a postscript dated Kolobeng, October 14, which he had safely reached on his return on the 10th of that month. His letter to Dr. Tidman contains the earliest and fullest account of his tour, and of the discovery of the Lake Ngami ; it is as follows : — LAKE NGAMI. 283 Letter from the Rev. David Livingston, addressed to the Rev. Akthue, Tidman, Foreign Secretary, London Missionary Society. " Banks of the River Zouga, ^rd September, 1849. "Dear Sik, — " I left my station, Kolobeng, (situated 25^ South lat., 26 East long.), on the 1st of June last, in order to carry into effect the in- tention, of which I had previously informed you, viz., to open a new field in the North, by penetrating the great obstacle to our progress, called the Desert, which, stretching away on our west, north-west, and north, has liitherto presented an insurmountable barrier to Europeans. "A large party of Griquas, in about thirty wagons, made many and persevermg efforts at two different points last year ; but though inured to the climate, and stimidated by the prospect of much gam from the ivory they expected to procure, want of water compelled them to retreat. " Two gentlemen, to whom I had communicated my intention of proceeding to the oft-reported Lake beyond the Desert, came &om England for the express purpose of being present at the discovery, and to theu- Uberal and zealous co-operation we are especially in- debted for the success with which that and other objects have been accomplished. While waiting for their arrival, seven men came to me from the Batouana, a tribe living on the banks of the lake, with an earnest request from, their chief for a visit. But the path by ■which they had come to Kolobeng was impracticable for wagons ; so, declining their guidance, I selected the more cu'cuitous route, by which the Bermangueato usually pass, and, having Bakwains for guides, their self-interest in our success was secured by my promising to carry any ivory they might procure for their chiefs in my wagon ; and right faithfully they performed their task. "When Sekhomi, the Bamanguato chief, became aware of our intention to pass into the regions beyond him, with true native in- humanity he sent men before us to drive away all the Bushmen and Bakalihari from our route, in order that, being deprived of their assistance in the search for water, we might, like the Griquas above mentioned, be compelled to return. This measure deprived me of the opportunity of holding the intercourse with these poor outcasts I might otherwise have enjoyed. But, through the good providence of God, after travelling about 300 miles from Kolobeng, we struck on a magiuficent river on the 4th of July, and without further difficulty, in so far as Avater was concerned, by winding along its banks nearly 284 LETTER FROM DR. LIVINGSTON. 300 miles more, we reached the Batavana, on the lake Ngami, by the beginning of August. '* Previous to leaving this beautiful river on my return home, and commencing our route across the Desert, I feel anxious to furnish you with the impressions produced on my mind by it and its inhabi- tants, the Bakoba or Bayeiye. They are a totally distinct race from the Bechuanas. They call themselves Bayeiye (or men), while the teiia Bakoba (the name has somewhat of the meaning of "slaves,") is applied to them by the Bechuanas. Their complexion is darker than that of the Bechuanas ; and, of 300 words I collected of their language, only 21 bear any resemblance to Sitchuana. They paddle along the rivers and lake in canoes hollowed out of the trunks of single trees ; take fish in nets made of a weed which abounds on the banks ; and kill hippopotami with harpoons attached to ropes. We greatly admired the frank, manly bearing of these inland sailors. Many of them spoke Sitchuana fluently, and, while the wagon went along the bank, I greatly enjoyed following the windings of the river in one of their primitive craft, and visitmg their little A-illages among the reed. The banks are beautiful beyond any we had ever seen, except perhaps some parts of the Clyde. They are covered, in general, with gigantic trees, some of them bearing fruit, quite new to us. Two of the Baobob variety measiired 70 to 76 feet in circum- ference. The higher we ascended the river, the broader it became, until we often saw more than 100 yards of clear deep water between the broad belt of reed whicli grows in the shallower parts. The water was clear as crystal, and as we approached the point of junc- tion A^ith other large rivers, reported to exist in the north, it was quite soft and cold. The fact that the Zouga is connected -with large rivers coming fi-om the north, awakens emotions in my nrnid, which make the discoveiy of the lake dwindle out of sight. It opens the pros- pect of a highway, capable of being quickly traversed by boats, to a large section of well-peopled territoiy. The hopes which that pros- pect inspu-es for the benighted mhabitants, might, if uttered, call forth the charge of enthusiasm — a charge, by the way, I wish I deserved, for nothing good or great, either in law, religion, or phy- sical science, has ever been accomplished without it : however, I do not mean the romantic flighty variety, but that which impels vrith tmtiring energy to the accomplishment of its object. 1 do not ^-ish to convey hopes of speedily effecting any great work through my own instrumentality ; but I hope to be permitted to work, so long as I live, beyond other men's line of things, and plant the seed of the Gospel where others have not planted ; though every excursion for that purpose will involve separation from my family for periods of LETTER FROM DR. LIVINGSTON. 285 four or five months. Kolobeng will be supplied by native teachers during these times of absence ; and, when we have given the Bak- wains a fair trial, it will probably be advisable for all to move onward. " One remarkable feature in this river is, its periodical rise and fall. It has risen nearly 3 feet in height smce our arrival, and this is the dry season. That the rise is not caused by rains, is evident from the water being so pure. Its purity and softness increased as we ascended towards its junction with the Tamanakle, from wliich, although connected with the lake, it derives the present increased supply. The sharpness of the air caused an amazing keemiess of appetite, at an elevation of little more than 2000 feet above the level of the sea, (water boiled at 207^° thermometer), and the reports of the Bayeiye, that the waters came from a mountainous region, suggested the conclusion that the increase of the water at the begin- ning and middle of the dry season must be derived fi'om melting snow. " All the rivers reported, to the north of this, have Bayeiye upon them, and there are other tribes on their banks. To one of these, after A'isiting the Batouana, and taking a peep at the broad part of the lake, Ave directed our course. But the Batouana chief managed to obstruct us, by keeping all Bayeiye near the ford on the opposite bank of the Zouga. African chiefs invariably dislike to see strangers passing them to tribes beyond. Sebetoana, the chief who in former years saved the life of Sechele, our chief, lives about ten days north- east of the Batouana. The latter sent a present as a token of gratitude. This would have been a good introduction; the knowledge of the language, however, is the best we can have. I endeavoiu'ed to con- struct a raft, at a part which was only fifty or sixty yards wide, but the wood, though sun-dried, was so heavy it sunk immediately ; another kind would not bear my weight, although a considerable portion of my person was under water. I could easily have swam across, and fain would have done it ; but, landing without clothes, and then demanding of the Bakoba the loan of a boat, would scarcely be the thing for a messenger of peace, even though no alligator met me in the passage. These and other thoughts were revolving in my mind as I stood in the water, — for most sorely do I dislike to be beaten, — when my kind and generous friend Mr. Oswell, with whom alone the visit to Sebetoana was to be made, offered to bring up a boat at his own expense from the Cape, which, after visiting the chief, and coming round the north end of the lake, will become Missionary property. To him and our other companion, Mr. Murray, I feel greatly indebted ; for the chief exj)enseij kejourneij has been borne by 286 ■LETTER FROM DR. LIVINGSTON. them. They could not have readied tins point witliout my assist ance ; but, for the aid they have rendered hi opening up this field, I feel greatly indebted ; and, should any public notice be taken of this journey, I shall feel obliged to the Directors if they express my thankfulness. "The Bayeiye or Bakoba listened to the statements made from the Divine Word with great attention, and, if I am not mistaken, seemed to understand the message of mercy delivered, better than any people to -whom I have preached for the first time. They have in-| variably a great many charms in the villages ; stated the name of God in their language (without the least hesitation) to be " Oreeja ;" mentioned the name of the first man and woman, and some tradition- ary statements respecting the Flood. I shall not, however, take these for certain, tdl I have more knowledge of their language. They are found dwelling among the reed all round the Lake, and on the banks of all the rivers to the North. "With the periodical flow of the rivers, great shoals of fish descend. The people could give no reason for the rise of the water, further than that a chief, who lives in a part of the coiuitry to the north, called ^lazzekiva, kills a man annually, and tlirows his body into the stream, after which the water begins to flow. When will they know Him who was slain, that whosoever wUl, might drink of the water of life freely ? "The sketch, which I inclose (see p. 287), is intended to convey an idea of the River Zouga and the Lake Ngami. The name of the latter is pronounced as if written with the Spanish N, the g bemg inserted to show that the ringing sound is required. The meaning is " Great Water." The latitude, taken by a sextant on which I can fully de- pend, was 20° 20' S. at the north-east extremity, where it is jomed by the Zouga ; longitude, about 24° E. We do not, however, knoxo it with certainty. We left our wagon near the Batouana town, and rode on horseback about six miles beyond, to the broad part. It gradually widens out into a frith about 15 miles across, as you go South from the town, and in the South-South- West presents a large horizon of water. It is reported to be about 70 miles in length, bends roiuid to the North- West, and there receives another river similar to the Zouga. The Zouga rmis to the North-East. The thorns were so thickly planted near the upper part of this river, that we left all our wagons standing about 180 miles from the lake, except that of Mr. Oswell, in which we travelled the remaining distance. But for this precaution, our oxen would have been unable to return. I am now standing at a tribe of Bakiirutse, and shall iai a day or two re-enter the desert. "The breadth marked is intended to show the difi'erence between LAKE NGAMI. 287 SECOND VISIT TO THE LAKE. 989 the size of the Zouga, after its junction Avith the Tamunakle, and before it. The farther it runs East, the naiTower it becomes. The coxirse is shown by the arrow-heads. The rivers not seen, bxit reported by natives, are put down in dotted lines. The dotted lines running north of the river and lake, show the probable course of the Tamu- nakle, and anotheT river, which fall into the lake at its north-west extremity. The arrow-heads show also the direction of its flow. At the part marked by the name of the chief, Mosing, it is not more than 50 or 60 yards in breadth, while at 20° 7' it is more than 100, and very deep. "The principal disease reported to prevail at certain seasons ap- pears, from the account of the symptoms the natives give, to be pneu- monia, and not fever. When the wind rises to an ordinary breeze, such immense clouds of dust arise from the numerous di-ied-out lakes, called salt-pans, that the whole atmosphere becomes quite yellow, and one cannot distinguish objects more than two miles off. It causes irritation in the eyes, and, as wind prevails almost constantly at cer- tain seasons, this impalpable powder may act as it does among the grinders in Sheffield. We observed cough among them, a complamt almost unknown at Kolobeng. Musquitoes swarm in simimcr, and the banyan and palmyra give in some parts an Indian cast to the scenery. AVho will go in to possess this goodly land in the name of Him whose right it is to reign ? (Signed) "DAVID LIVINGSTON." In April, 1850, Dr. Livingston made a second attempt to visit tlie region of the lake, with a view to the extension of Missionary enterprise. On this occasion he was accom- panied by Mrs. L. and their children, and also by Sechele, the chief, and Mebaloe, the native teacher of the Kolobeng station. After visiting the Bakarutse tribe, who live at the lower end of the Zouga, the travellers crossed that river and ascended its northern bank, intending to follow the course of the Tamunakle until they reached the residence of the friendly chief, Sebeboana. When they were near the junction of the two rivers, they were informed by Palaue, a Bakhoba chief, that the fly called " tsetse " abounded on the Tamunakle. As the bite of this formidable insect was known to be fatal ta 290 INSUPERABLE DIFFICULTIES. oxen, horses, and dogs, though not to man, and the party were in possession of no more oxen than were barely sul- ficient to draw the wagons, Mr. Livingston resolved to prosecute his enterprise alone; but Mrs. L. preferring to pass the interval among the Bataoana, while awaiting her husband's return, the party recrossed the Zouga, and pro-' ceeded onwards to the lake. Sechulathebe, the chief, engaged to furnish Mr. Livingston with guides for his expe- dition, and also to make provision for his family during his absence. These preliminary arrangements being made, and everything appearing favourable, Mr. L. was on the eve of starting on his journey, when his driver and leader were laid up by fever, and subsequently two of his children, and others of the party, were attacked. As the malaria seemed to exist in a more concentrated form near the lake than in any other part, and had already proved fatal in two instances, the travellers considered it prudent to retreat, after passing two Sundays with the Bataoana ; and as the time at Mr. Livingston's command was nearly expended, he was reluc- tantly compelled, through the serious obstacles intei'posed by the prevalence of the fever and the fly, to return to his station at Kolobeng, deferring the accomplishment of his ulterior objects for a more favourable opportunity. The sickness with which the party were attacked, is stated to be marsh fever, generated from the lake and river, at that period of the year when evaporation has proceeded so far as to expose the banks of vegetable matter to the action of the sun. In the natives, the effects of the poison imbibed into the system appear most frequently in the form of bi- lious fever, and they generally recover, after being copiously relieved of bile ; but as the result of his observation and inquir}^ Mr. Livingston has been led to doubt whether this disease may not form a serious barrier to the introduction of European civilization, and the formation of Missionary establishments in the vicinity of the lake districts. As, however, the Teoge, a river which falls into the lake at its north-west extremity, is reported to flow southward with SUNDAY AT KOLOBENG. 291 great rapidity, the region beyond must have a considerable elevation ; and hopes are consequently entertained that localities may be found in that direction unexceptionable on the score of health. With a view to the solution of this interesting and important problem, Mr. Livingston proposes to undertake another journey at the first opportunity; and Mrs. L. so fully partakes of the enterprising spirit of her husband, and so cordially sympathizes in his object, that she has consented to his leaving her during the period, more or less protracted, tliat an undertaking, embracing such objects, must necessarily occupy. On the Sunday which I spent at Kolobeng, we held ser- vice at the chapel. Very many of the natives attended. Mr. Moffat ad- dressed those who were assembled in large numbers out- side, and who had been unable to gain admittance within. Dr. Livingston kindly acted as my inteipreter to the congregation within the building. All were attentive ; and it was encouraging to find them disposed to assemble and listen. But the people are, with the exception of their chief, nearly all heathen, dressed in their native karosses, their hair greased, necks belaboured with chains and orna- ments, and many of them begrimed with red ochre. A few are trying to learn to read, and some children attend school. It was gratifying on the Sunday morning to see the chief, Sechele, kindly and earnestly endeavouring to teach his people the elements of reading. The whole Mission-work of the station, however, is quite in an incipient state ; and the teacher requires for his labour of love a large supply of the patience of hope, and the zeal that is not exhausted by difficulty. How many important considerations risebeforc him under such circum- stances ! How far is a Missionary justified in rciuainiug with a heathen people, when, though they are glad of his presence, for the shield it serves to throw around them in tlicir civil and political condition, they not only do not em- bi-acc the gospel he preaches, but resist and oj)pose, and 292 AN ANXIOUS INQUIRY. scarcely ever come to hear him ? How long is he warranted in remaining with them under such circumstances, and especially if other tribes are within his reach, and who might be willing to embrace his message ? And all these considerations receive additional weight when it is recol- lected that our Society is so limited in its funds, that it cannot afford to spend much in the way of experimenting on people, while large opportunities exist of proclaiming the gospel to great multitudes in India and China, and where multitudes are already willing to hear, at any rate, the message which is announced. The population here is not large ; and yet three thousand souls would form a suf- ficiently large sphere of operation for a Missionary, pro- vided he has access to them, and they actually come under his instniction and influence. I had now reached the extreme point of my journey northward; and having completed my visit to Kolobeng, I commenced my journey on my return to the South. The chief and Dr. Livingston accompanied Mr. and Miss Moffat and myself to our first resting-place ; there we separated. They returned home ; and the rest of our party proceeded towards Quaque, in the country of the Wankeets. The Society has here a valuable and devoted teacher, called Sibobe, sustained by contributions from friends at Bristol. The young chieftain here, Sintoe, appeared very plea- sant, intelligent, and friendly. ^^ The next Sunday we i'emained.;ln the neighbourhood of a village of Barolongs, on the-- borders of the Kalliharri desert. The natives attended in considerable numbers. In the eveviing we held service beneath our tent with the few natives who understood English or Dutch who accom- panied us ; and it being the first Sabbath in the year, we celebrated the ordinance of the Lord's Supper. The lightning this evening was exceedingly grand and sublime ; I never saw it more so. The sheet lightning seemed to cover at once the face of the heavens, and the pointed and forked lightning was indescribably vivid, fre- MR. Moffat's wagon upset. 293 quent, and magnificent, at times seeming to form the shape of an inverted tree, having a vast central column and nume- rous branches, stretching out on both sides. The next day the air was delightfully cool and fresh, after the rains which had fallen during the night. We con- tinued travelling over silent and extensive plains. We reached a small village of Wankeets, from which the chief- tain happened to be absent. We sat down a short time with the people, under the shade of a sort of hut, con- structed of poles and grass. A skin of an enormous black lion was lying there, measuring seven feet from the head to the insertion of the tail. The huge monster, after having destroyed several head of cattle belonging to the people, was shot by the villagers, who had gone out in quest of him, and happily found him in a sound, tranquil sleep, little suspecting danger so near at hand. On reaching the "Kolong," near Mamusa, the first and only accident occurred which we had met with on the jour- ney — Mr. Moffat's wagon upset. Happily no serious mis- chief was done. Miss M. was inside, and a young female servant. Neither of them was injured. My wagon had just passed the same spot safely. Had there been due care on the part of the driver, Mr. M.'s wagon might have passed safely too, as the place was neither steep nor difficult. It delayed us about half an hour to get all right again. By means of a few hands pulling the wagon up on one side, and a strong, united lift on the other, the vehicle was got up on its four Avheels again, reloaded, and shortly after- wards reached the residence of Mr. Ross. The locality has nothing of interest. It is a stony place — all sandstone; no hills of any height; scarcely any vege- tation. There are four villages, and they contain alto- gether about 4000 people, chiefly Batlapis and Baliarutse. There are also some Bamairas and some Bawangketse. Motlaribe is chief of the Baharutse here. The station of Mamusa lies about 230 miles south-west from Kolobeng. The station was commenced in 1844. 294 LEKATLONa. Mahura, chieftain of the Batlapis, resides here, as does also a chieftain of the Baharutse. The population, which consists of four trihes, amounts to 4000 ; the average attendance is about 150, upwards of 100 of whom are communicants. The Rev. W. Ross is the Society's laborious Missionary here. From Mamusa we proceeded to Borigelong, an out-sta- tion, containing a population of about 200, chiefly Corannas. We might have reached the village rather earlier this morn- ing, hut for the misfortune of losing one of our cattle last night. The men, though cautioned, had neglected to tie them safely up to the wagon gear, on our going to rest. Hence they wandered, quietly grazing, to some little distance, where one of them was seized by a wolf, mangled, and de- stroyed. The rest, of course, ran oif to a considerable dis- tance. We borrowed a few cattle of some native Bechuanas, who were travelling our way, and known to Mr. Moffat, and so proceeded to Lekatlong, leaving our driver to bringfonvard the other cattle as soon as found. Lekatlong is a large and important field of Missionary operation. Here is a population of about 1200. The congregation averages 600, and the communicants amount to half that number. Mr. Helmore has much to encourage him in his work. There is a miserable chapel, certainly, but an excellent congregation ; and I did not fail to urge upon them the necessity and duty of providing a far better and more appropriate place of worship. The Sunday- schools are well attended, and so is the Infant-school, su- perintended by Miss Helmore; sister of Mr. H. Many children are absent at present at what are termed " out- posts," that is, places where rather more grass and water can be obtained for the cattle than at the principal towais. The children are sent there to obtain supplies of milk, on which, in fact, they subsist. Nothing can be obtained at the towns for the support of large families. Subsistence is altogether scarce and difficult. CHAPTER XIII. THE ORANGE RIVER SOVEREIGNTY. BXPLA.NATION OF THE NAME — EXTENT HISTORY OF ITS ACQUISITION PRIVY COUNCIL REPORT COLONIES, HOW ACQUIRED ? CONQUEST, CESSION, OCCUPANCY ATTORNEY - GENERAL'S OPINION OPINION RECONSIDERED — VARIETY OF OPINIONS FINAL ARRANGEMENT POWER OF LEGAL FICTIONS — -DANCING A POLKA TRANSFORMATIONS ANNEXATION COLOURED RACES BLOEM FONTEIN — MURDER BY SOME BUSHMEN — COMMANDO — MURDERERS ARRESTED CAPITALLY PUNISHED ELOPEMENT PUNISHED WITH DEATH LYNCH LAW EXECUTION OF TWO MEN BY COURT-MARTIAL THABA UNCHU MOROKO PLATBERG NOBLE KLOOF REV. MR. GIDDY THABA BOSSIO. On leaving Mr. Helmore's station at Lekatlong, and travelling towards the colony, my next object was to visit the Missions of the "Paris Missionary Society," among the Basutos, The Basuto country has been lately in- cluded by Sir Harry Smith within the district bearing the above designation. The only stations belonging to the London Missionary Society, in this immense and newly constituted territory, are those among the Griquas, under the chieftain Adam Kok, and which I have already de- scribed. But as the whole question of annexing this large piece of territory, of some forty to fifty thousand square miles, to the colony, is replete with the deepest interest, and certainly involves the gi'avest questions, I am un- willing to omit a distinct reference to it ; and the I'ather, as its present political position greatly affects all the Missions within its boundaries. The territory designated 296 HOW TO OBTAIN A COLONY. " Orange River Sovereignty" lies beyond the old colonial boundary, on the north-east, and embraces the tract of country between the "Vaal" and the "Orange" Rivers. Its most southern point is the thirty-first degree of south latitude, and il stretches up to about twenty-six and a half in its north-eastern extremity. It commences on the west, at the junction of those two rivers, and is bounded on the north-east by the Drakenberg range of mountains. This Orange River Sovereignty includes on its eastern side several districts occupied by natives, and ruled by native chiefs, over whom it claims to exercise a paramount authority, and among whom Moshesh, chief of the Basutos, is the principal. It embraces also, on the west side, a large tract of country, partly taken from the natives, under various arrangements, and partly found as unoccupied ter- ritory — territory bereft of its aboriginal inhabitants, either by internal wars or the intrusion of the Dutch farmers. This second portion of the Sovereignty is divided into four districts, over which four magistrates or civil com- missioners are respectively appointed, besides a fifth officer designated " British Resident," as paramount, and whose office is at Bloem Fontein. The " Sovereignty " was constituted and proclaimed by Sir H. Smith, 3rd February, 1848. The history of our acquisition of this new and enor- mous piece of territory may be given in the w^ords of a Report from the Lords of Council, on Trade and Foreign Plantations, and which was read at Buckingham Palace, 13th July, 18.50. " The Queen's Most Excellent Majesty in Council. " It is necessary briefly to advert to the steps that led to the assump- tion of the Sovereignty of the Crown over this district. In 1836 the emigrant Boers settled themselves doAvn in many parts of what is now called the Orange Sovereignty : they assumed absolute inde- pendence ; established a species of government for themselves ; dis- puted native titles to land ; disclaimed being amenable to any native jxurisdiction, even when within the acknowledged territory of native THE SOVEREIGNTY ASSUMED. 297 cliiefs ; and in the result it became apparent, that unless the British Government interposed its authority, nothing but discord, violence, and crime, and a total extinction of the rights of the natives, must follow. " To a certain extent the evils arising from such a state of things ■were provided against by the Act of 6 & 7 Wm. 4, c. 57, which pro- vides for the punishment of offences by Her Majesty's subjects within certain territories adjacent to the Cape of Good Hope. The violence and aggression of the Boers upon the natives were by these means checked, and, imperfect as was the remedy, the Act was still pro- ductive of much good. The provisions of this statute were, however, found inadequate to prevent the frequent outbreaks to which the natural distrust and jealousy between the Boers and the natives had led, and in 1845, Sir P. Maitland adopted measures which he con- ceived might be effectual for the purpose. With this view he entered into arrangements with the native chiefs, for distinguishing and marking off the lands to be held by the natives from those to be held by the Boers, giving the Boers leases of these lands from the native chiefs, and regulating the payment of quit-rents, out of which the expenses of maintaining certain magistrates and a police were in the ftrst instance to be paid. These measures, regvdating the occupation of the land, and the application of the land revenue, the establishment, at the same time, of a British Resident, aided by troops and a native contingent, m case of need, and compelling all parties, both Boers and natives, to keep the peace, were at that time virtually an extension of the authority of the Crown over these domuiions. "Not many months after Sir II. Smith had taken the charge of the Government of the colony of the Cape of Good Hope, his attention was called to the state of disorganization which continued in this territory, notwithstanding all that had been done ; and he came to the conclusion that peace could not be maintained without the ex- istence of some more formal and regular Government ; and on the 3rd of February 1848, he issued the proclamation which is contained in the present papers, proclaiming the Sovereignty of your Majesty over the territories north of the Great Orange Iliver, including the terri- tories of the native chiefs, Moshesh, Moroko, Moletsani, Sikonyella, Adam Kok, Gert Taybosch, and other minor chiefs, so far north as the Vaal River, and east to the Drakcnburg or Quathlamba Mountains. "This, and a subsequent proclamation of the 8th of March 1848, contained regulations for the government of the assumed sovereignty, providing for the emigrant Boers the law now prevailing in the Cape colony, and declaring, that, as to the natives, Her Majesty's authority was paramount, but that the hereditary rights of the chiefs shoidd be maintained Q08 ACQUISITION OF COLONIES. " The regulations now in force for the government of this territory, as sanctioned by Sir Harry Smith, are contained in the proclamation issued on the 14th March, 1849. " Your Majesty's Secretary of State for the Colonies acknowledged the receipt of the proclamations of February and March 1848, estab- lishing the Sovereignty of the C^o^\^^ over these dominions, on the 21st June 1848. Sir H. Smith was then informed that your Majesty's Government would be prepared to sanction the extension of British sovereignty in the manner detailed, over the coimtry between the Orange and Vaal Rivers, and the adoption of the system of land- granting and of executive government described in the proclamation of the 8th of March, when your Majesty's servants should be enabled to determine what steps would be necessary to give legal force and validity to the measm-es in question." To detemiine what these steps should be, appears to have created considerable embarrassment. The main difficulty was as to the light in which this new acquisition should be legally viewed. Mr. Porter, the Colonial Attorney- General, had said, 25th March, 1849 : — " British colonies seem, in law, to be di\isible into three classes, for colonies by descent may be left out of the list : — " 1st. Colonies acquired by conquest. " 2nd. Colonies acquired by cession. " 3rd. Colonies acquired by the settlement, in unoccupied places, of British subjects. "For colonies acquired by conquest or by cession, the Crown, as distinct from, though not, of course, independent of, the Parliament, possesses the power of legislation. The Cape is one of these colonies. For colonies of the third class — colonies by occupation, or plantations, in the stricter sense of the term — the Crown, as distinct from Parlia- ment, cannot legislate. " Is, then, the Orange River Sovereignty a colony by conquest ? or a colony by cession ? or a colony by occupancy ? " Conquest, except in the feudal sense of the term, wliich is not the sense it has here, would appear to be out of the question. " Cession, considered as a groimd of title, appears to me to be just as inadmissible. There was nothing that pm-ported to be a cession. There Avere no chiefs of such stamp and standing as it would be worthy of the British name to take a cession fi-om ; and there were no Buch chiefs, such as they were, whom his Excellency, without ham- pering himself and doing injustice to others, coidd recognize as COLONY BY OCCUPANCY. 299 owning collectively the entire territory. Neither as a fact nor as a tiction does title by cession strike my humble judgment as one which should be set up. " Is, then, the Orange River Sovereignty a colony by occupancy ? At first sight it scarcely seems to be so." Mr. Porter proceeds to offer various remarks under this head, and then draws his conclusion, that it is a colony hy occupancy, as follows : — " I avoid all attempt to define the sort of native occupation which, when it exists, makes European intrusion robbery ; and when it does not exist, makes European intrusion rightful. But when, as matter of fact, British subjects have got, in large numbers, amongst barba- rous or semi-barbarous people, and brought about such a state of things that, if our support were once withdrawn, the natives would sink into serfs upon the face of the land, I regard the occupancy of those British subjects as being in the nature of ahnost every occupancy of which we have the history, and am disposed to A-iew the colony created by the declaration of British Sovereignty, as a colony by oc- cupancy, instead of by conquest or by cession. If the Orange River Sovereignty be a colony of this description, provision for its future government ought, it would seem, to be made by Parliament." In Jul}', 1850, Lord Grey wrote to the Governor, that the Lords of the Committee of Privy Council regarded the Sovereignty, in the light of a conquered, and not a ceded territory. His Lordship says — "In reference, however, to the subject of the Orange Sovereignty, I have to inform you that it has been found impossible, dui-ing the present session, owing to the pressure of other business of great im- portance, to bring it under the consideration of Parliament in the form of a bill, as advised by the Committee. " You will, however, observe that this advice of the Committee is not founded on any opinion of their own, that Parliamentary enactment is absolutely necessary. They, on the contrary, regard the Orange Sovereignty in the light of a conquered territory, the Government of which Her Majesty could, on ordinary principles, constitute by virtue of her prerogative. Their recommendation rests on tlie ground of Mr. Porter's opinion, and not their own, and of the inconvenience which would result from atlopting a course which the chief law advisers of the colony consider illegal. And I may remind you that 300 COLONY BY CESSION. this Committee comprised among its legal members the present Lord Chief Justice of England, Sir Edward llyan, and Sir James Stephen. " If, on farther consideration of the subject, Mr. Porter, and the other legal authorities of the colony whom you may think proper to consult, should see reason to concur with the Committee, it might be unnecessary to incur the inconvenience of deferring the final settlement of this question until the next session of Parliament." In September, 1850, the Governor referred the matter to the re-consideration of Mr. Porter, with a new view of the case, in the following terms : — " His Excellency observes that you hold the Orange Kiver Sover- eignty to be 'a colony by occupancy ;' and, being apprehensive that you had not a full statement of the facts of the case before you when you pronoiinced that opmion, has desu-ed me," says his secretary, "to submit the question for your re-consideration. " Before the emigration of British subjects into the country north of the Orange E-iver commenced, that coiuitry must be held to have belonged to the native chiefs ; nor was the occupation of British subjects in any way recognized, so as to make the Sovereignty a British possession, lontil the date of his Excellency's Proclamation of 3rd February, 1848. " Previously to tlie issue of that Proclamation, his Excellency had conferred with all the native chiefs, who agreed to cede the Sover- eignty of the country to him, as Her Majesty's representative, as the means of sec\rring British protection. His Excellency has desired me to ascertain whether this circumstance, which he believes was not before clearly stated to you, makes any difference in the opinion above quoted." Mr. Porter having re-considered the subject, now de- cided that the Sovereignty was a colony by cession, although he had befoi-e thought that " there was nothing that pur- ported to be a cession — and no chiefs competent to make a cession ! " Mr. P. remarks : — " I am glad that his Excellency's attention has been drawn to that opinion, since the result is to set me right upon a question of fact, in regard to which I had fallen into error. "His Excellency's statement of what took place beyond the Orange River previous to the issue of his Proclamation of the 3rd February, 1848, establishes that the native chiefs then made a cession of the country now called ' The Sovereignty.' COLONY BY CONQUEST. 301 '* The Orange River Sovereignty must, therefore, (contrary to my impression when writing in March 1849,) be deemed to be a colony by cession, and not, as I was disposed to think, when ignorant that the chiefs had agreed -with his Excellency to cede the Sovereignty of the country to Her Majesty, a colony by occupancy. " The title by conquest his Excellency appears, with myself, to view as one which is inconsistent with the facts of the case, since we never, at any time, were engaged in hostilities with any native chief in that country ; and since we could not, of course, make title by conquest under those rapid and successful military movements against rebel British subjects, which did not go before, but, on the contrary, followed, the Proclamation of the 3rd February, 1848, esta- blishing Her Majesty's authority. " Title by cession is, however, quite another thing ; and bemg of opinion that no particular form is necessary to such a cession, nor anything except an intention to cede the Sovereignty and the country, sufficiently expressed by chiefs competent to make the cession, I think it quite clear, from his Excellency's statement, that the Orange River Sovereignty is a colony by cession, and subject to the legislation of the Crown." This opinion of the Attorney-General is transmitted to Earl Grey on the 8th October, 1850, and on 11th Feb- ruaiy, 1851, his Lordship promises to send out im- mediately the Commission required by the Governor, to authorize him to assume the Government of the Orange River Sovereignty ; and this was accordingly done on tlie •25th March, when letters patent were forwarded to Sir H. Smith, "erecting the Orange River territory into a separate Government, to be administered by the Governor of the Cape, and by the Lieutenant-Governor of the said territory." That is, after all, that the colony is a colony by conquest, and consequently can be governed by Her Majesty, without an appeal to Parliament! There is something in all this, passing strange! "There is no conquest," says the Governor. " Conquest is out of the question," echoes the Attorney- General. "It is a colony by conquest," say the Lords of the Council. " It is not cession," says the Attorney-General, " for there were no parties competent to cede it, and therefore it is a colony by occupancy." " But the chiefs did cede the 302 TKANSFORMING POWER OF LAW. Sovereignty to him," says the Governor, on second thoughts. Then, rejoins the Attorney- General, " It is quite clear, from His Excellency's statement, that it is a colony hij cession." And on hearing this, the Imperial Government still placidly Avhispers, " It is a colony by conquest;" and then issues letters patent accordingly for its government. Marvellous is the transforming power of Law ! ay ! even of a fiction of Law. It gives reality to non-existence, and form, and shape, and colour to airy subtleties ; calls tilings that are not, as though they were; proclaims a con- quest where there has been no struggle ; claims paramount authority over chiefs, to prevent their mutual quarrels, and places the paw of the British Lion on the necks of them all ; accepts their request for friendly interposition, and then seizes all their possessions ; steps forward to mark boundary lines to their respective inheritances, and claims them all as "a Sovereignty" for itself; recognizes in unhesitating terms their respective and inalienable rights, and then absorbs them all ; caresses a powerful chief, ap- plauds him as humane and peaceful, and then says "he must be humbled;" dances a polka with him;* permits enemies to attack him ; forbids his defending himself, on pain of foi'feiting our friendship, and then rewards his unsuspecting confidence by depriving him of a large slice of his territory ; throws the aegis of the British shield over his land for his protection, and then calls it a " British Sovereignty," "obtained by conquest." " Veni, Vicli, Vici!" Conquered, undoubtedly, by theodolites, tapes, chains, maps, and diagrams, and " letters patent." And then, gravely adds Earl Grey, " Wherever British Sovereignty extends, the people then become British subjects!" Marvellous tkis transforming power of Law ! * Sir II. Smitli, her ^Majesty's representative, thus endearingly expressed his regard for Moshesh "on the hght fantastic toe" — the same toe that was equally fantastic, hut less light, on the neck of poor Macomo. ANNEXATION. 303 — Moshesh, Moletsani, Moroko, Sikonyella, and a host of men of euphonious name, all constituted, by the Colonial Office pen, British Subjects, without their wish, and without giving them a hint about it. There they are, nolens, volens, and more of the former than the latter, "British " subjects. Marvellous this power of Great Britain ! Most surprising this influence of the Colonial Office ! Magical, mysterious, almost miraculous, this transforming energy of the Privy Council ! Fifty thousand square miles of territory — waste and void, or occupied by native allies — transmuted in a moment into a British Sovereignty, with all its tribes of sable men, who dreamt they were free and independent, and awoke, and behold it was a dream ! — they had become " amenable to the British Laws ! " And why not? Why should not England keep pace with other noble lands, in the glorious struggle for annexation ? Is Eussia to have Poland, America the Texas, France Algeria and Tahiti? Then why should not Great Britain have also Kaffraria and the Orange Eiver Sovereignty ? And after all, let it be remembered, these are 07ily coloured races, and semi-civilized tribes, who ought to be put on the proof that they have a right to occupy any nook in this fair globe of ours, if we want it — a globe, evidently destined for the Anglo-Saxon race ! The least they can do is to beg pardon, as Piobert Hall said in another case, " of every man they meet, for having ventured to come into the world." Bloem Fontein, the seat of British Government in this Sovereignty, has nothing to recommend it, in its natvu-al features. The scenery is extremely uninteresting. There is no wood, and little water. The plan of a town is laid out. The foundation of a church is laid. A court-house and a prison exist. There are about forty or fifty toleral)le houses built ; there arc a few stores and shops, a market-place with a bell to an- nounce the time when sales take place, and a clerk of the 304 BLOKM FONTEIN. niiirket apjiointcd. A good well has been sunk, and ;ii forty foot depth, a supply of water is found from six to nine feet. The inhabitants have wisely asked to Ix formed into a municipality, and their request has been granted. Here is also a fortress, a few cannon, part of ;i regiment, a major, one hundred Cape Mounted Eifles, and barracks, as the usual materials of an improving com mimity. There is also a Government school-house, but, at tin time of my visit, without scholars or master. Eeligiou- services were held there on Sunday. Mr. Murray, son of the Dutch clergyman of Graaff Eeinet, has received thr appointment to the new church. He diligently and laudably employs himself, during a great part of his tinif. in travelling among the emigrant farmers in the interior. and conducting religious services. During our brief sojourii in the town, we held a public Missionary- Meeting, which was well attended, as were also the services on Sunday. Major Warden, the Resident, happened to be absent from town while we were there. It appears he was out with some troops in pursuit of some Bushmen, who had lately been guilty of a murder. A farmer had been shot by them, his wife and children murdered, and a sen^ant also. The house was then plundered and set fire to. The farmer is reported to have been a man of violent temper, had been severe with thi Bushmen, and they had threatened to take their reveng* . The farmer had, a day or two previously, threatened h( would shoot a Basuto, whose cattle annoyed him bv trespassing on his ground. He spoke about it deliberate]} to a friend, and said he was determined to shoot the man. His friend and his wife advised him rather to proceed to Bloemx Fontein, and lodge a legal complaint against the man, and so obtain redress. "Without promising to comply, he remained at home, and was murdered by the Bushmen that Sunday evening. As soon as the fact became known, the farmers in the neighbourhood, as in their own defence BUSHMEN DESTROYED. 305 j set out in pursuit of the supposed murderers, but were i unable to succeed in taking them, j How many Bushmen they killed or took prisoners prior i to the arrival of the Major and his troops, I did not hear ; 1 but it is said the Bushmen defended themselves vigorously ' with one gun and some poisoned arrows. On the arrival of the Major, six of them were killed in the attempt to arrest them ; six others were made prisoners, and reserved for trial. These I was informed, were found guilty, and hanged, and upwards of 100 (it is said 130) were taken and dis- tributed among the farmers for service. It seems that one man had been admitted as Queen's evidence, and that the details of the murder had been obtained from him. He pleaded that he was induced to join the party under false representations, and that, having been brought near the house, and there first made acquainted with the real de- sign, he abstained from further proceedings. One farmer had since died of the wounds which he received from a poisoned arrow. Here is an instance of the old Com- mando system bi'ought again into operation. But by what law the 130 men have been made slaves, and dis- tributed for compulsory service among the farmers — that is to say, reduced to slaveiy — I have not been able to learn. Yet all this is done within the British Sovereignty. About a month prior to the murder detailed in the pre- ceding page, it appears that a farmer and some of his friends residing near Elandberg (not more than three hours' ride from Mr. Roland's station at Beersheba) went to a BTishmau's kraal, and accused him of having carried off his daughter. The man directed the father to ask first of his daughter how the case stood, and she confessed that, having been refused permission to smoke tobacco at home, she had left her father's house and accompanied the man. The Bushman was then shot dead on the spot, the young woman was flogged, and taken away home by her father {enceinte). The murderer went to rcpoit, liimsclf uiid liis case to the British Besidcnt, and so tho ailair Icrniinated. 300 COUKT-MARTIAL. But, amidst such proceedings — violent and lawless — can it be otherwise than that peipetual jealousies and revenije must take place — till the miserable remnant of the Bush- men, driven to the rocks, where many now conceal thei; selves, shall be exterminated ? It was here Sir Harry Smith had his camp, after thr engagement of 1848 with the Boers. On that occasion two men were shot under the following circumstance >. Draaier, a young Dutchman, and Quigby, an Irishman, were taken prisoners in arms against the British. The former was an emigrant, the latter a deserter from the British forces. They were tried by a com't-martial, on Sunday morning, and found guilty. They were condemned to die, and their graves were forthwith dug, at about a thou- sand paces from the place of trial. For Quigby there was no sympathy among his comrades. He was a bold, reckless character ; a fine, stout, healthy man, about twenty-eight years of age. Draaier, it ai:»pears, had been forced by his countrymen into this service. He had twice run away from it, — so unwilling to enter the ranks against the English : and when taken, though with arms in hand, he had not used them. His gun was examined, and found perfectly clean. It had not been fired off. The Governor, it is said, was deter- mined to make an example, and strike terror into the Boers. In the latter it has failed. It has caused hatred — fiercer hatred than ever, and is believed to have cost, secretly, the lives of many Englishmen already, who have ventured in among the Boers, and never afterwards been heard of. The wife of Draaier is young, and has not ceased to weep for what she and her family and friends regard as her murdered j husband. The men wei'e executed on the Monday morning. | _ They were led to the place of their graves ; six soldiers fired i — three balls struck each victim ; Draaier died instantly ; \ Quigby fell, but was not mortally Avounded. He was then ' shot with a pistol through the head, by the quartermaster. , Their bodies were immediately covered up in the graves, j and the Governor and his attendants left Bloem Fontein. ' PLATBERG. 307 From Bloem Fontein we proceeded to " Thaba Unchu," on our way to the Basuto country. This station is marked off in the m.ap of the Sovereignty as belonging to the Barolongs, a tribe of Bechuanas, and is under the chief- tainship of Moroko. It is a Wesleyan Mission station of considerable importance. The Kev. Mr. Cameron resides here. He was absent from home when we called there, as was also the chief, so that we had not the pleasure of meeting with either. Having outspanned in the evening, we started early next morning, and continued our way across the gi'assy plains of the countiy, till twelve o'clock, when we rested two hours. The mountainous sceneiy is magnificent, but the country is wearisome and monotonous : no trees to enliven the scene, not even a bush to be met with — no birds with cheerful song — nor the roar of a lion to create a pleasing variety. The country is adapted to grazing, and the cattle are numerous. We ne.xt reached Platberg, a town in the country occu- pied by the Bastaards, under the chieftainship of a smart little native, Carolus Batje. This, also, is a Wesleyan station, and we were glad to renew our acquaintance with the Rev. Mr. Giddy, whom we had met at Bloem Fontein, from whom we received a cordial welcome, and every assist- ance which he could render us in lending and procuring oxen for our journey. Many of the inhabitants here are industrious and thrifty, and appear to be in circumstances of considerable comfort. We counted nearly twenty wagons standing about. The village had a lively appearance in the evening, from the number of fires that were lighted in the houses of the villagers. The place is well supplied with water. There are many gardens, and nuich land is cultivated. Corn of all kinds is extensively rais(!d. The Bastaards purchase it of the natives, and supply tlie neigh- bourhood for many miles round. We ascended the kloof at Platberg, not far distant from Mr. Giddy 's residence. It is a noble kloof, and, as one of ;108 8PLENDID RAVINE. the stupendous works of nature in this countiy, well worth the fiitigue of a visit to see it. With some difficulty we reached its extreme point, where the spring of water from the high ground falls perpendicularly over some lofty rock> of sandstone, and from thence proceeds through the valley in the kloof, and supplies a stream to irrigate the grouii'l and gardens around Platherg. On our return to Mi- Giddy 's, hreakfastwas welcome, and having done justice to it and oui'selves, we proceeded on our joiiraey to Thaha Bossio. There commenced our visit to the French Mi>- sionaiy stations in the Basuto countiy, and to those sta tions I propose to devote the nest chapter. CHAPTER XIV. THE BASUTO COUNTRY, AND FRENCH MISSIONS. EARLY RESIDENCE OF MOSHESH— HIS EARLY STRUGGLES THABA BOSSIO POLYGAMY CHARACTER OF MOSHESH HUMANITY OF HIS TRIBE WATERBOER MOSHFSH's ESTIMATE OF WATERBOER COMPRE- HENSIVE VIEWS OF MOSHESH HIS COMPLAINTS TREATIES MADE WITH HIM GOVERNOR MAITLAND FIDELITY OF MOSHESH CON- DUCT OF GOVERNMENT — MOSHESH ASKS REDRESS FORCED TO SIGN AWAY HIS TERRITORY— VISIT TO MOSHESH CONVERSATION WITH MOSHESH— INTELLIGENCE OF THE PEOPLE— DIFFICULTIES OF THE MISSIONARY APPEAL OP MOSHESH TO HER MAJESTY LETTER FROM MOSHESH — LETTER TO LORD JOHN RUSSEL SIR H. SMITh's DENIAL EXTENT OF TERRITORY LOST — MORIJA FEELINGS OF THE PEOPLE PRINTING-PRESS CONVERSION OF LIBEY COMPANIONS SEPA- RATE DEATH OF MISS CHRISTIE ROBERT MOFFAT — MOKUATLING ATTACK OF CORANNAS MISSION STATION — ^CANNIBAL CAVES CAN- NIBALS WATCHING THEIR PREY EXTIRPATION OF THAT HORRID CUSTOM VISIT TO BETHULIA CARMEL TAKING LIONS BY THE TAIL LION SHOT AND KID SAVED BEERSHEBA MR. ROLLAND ABSENCE OF CHILDREN CANNIBALISM. The Basuto Country, under the chieftain Moshesh, now constitutes a considerable portion of the " British Sovereignty," on its eastern side. It is bounded on the east by a part of the Witte Bergen, or White Mountains, and which separates it from Kaffirland. These are sup- posed to be about two thousand five hundred or three thousand feet above the surrounding country, and eight or nine thousand feet above the level of the sea. Much of the country is admirably described by Messrs. Arbousset and Daumas, in their highly interesting volume, entitled 310 BIRTHPLACE OF MOSHESH. " Relation d'un Voyage d'Exploration au Nord-Est dc la Colonie dii Cap de Bonne Esperance," and of which a faithful translation was made in the colony by the Ile\'. J. C. Brown. A little to the north of the 29th degi-ee of south latitude, and at the base of the great chain of mountains, the jNIaloutis, stood the residence of Chaka, the Zoolu warrior, and on the other side of that chain, in the highest land in South Africa, was the residence of Moshesh. Between them lies the most elevated point of the chain. and there is one entire moimtain which is remarkable for its length, the size of the mass of which it is composed. and most particularly for this circumstance, that in that mountain, the Vaal, the Orange, and the Caledon Pavers have their sources. At the sources of those rivers are some of the most beautiful and romantic valleys in South Africa, and it was here that Moshesh was born, and grew to manhood in the midst of his tribe. The national soni^s still celebrate the green pastures of Boutabouta, where the young Moshesh hunted the eland, and speared the W'ild boar. These halcyon days, celebrated wdth so much pleasure by the Basutos, were not to last, and the young Moshesh was to be called from the sports of the field, to defend himself and tribe against the savage warfare, that was now carried on against himself and his j)eople, by Matwana and Pakarita,* who had both come into his neighbourhood. Seeing that he could not defend the open country against the attacks of such i^owerful enemies, he drew his people together into the valleys of Boutabouta, where he continued for some years to maintain his independence ; but, getting tired of the terrible struggle he had to maintain, Moshesh * The former, a chief who had heen defeated by Chaka, and the latter, a Fingo chief, on whom the famished remnant of Matwana's tribe fell. He attacked in turn the Mantatees, and they, the Bechua- nas, destroying the vestiges of civilization which Mi-. Campbell had seen in his journey to Kurrechene. CHOICE OF THABA BOSSIO. 311 meditated the means of extricating himself from these scenes of hori'or. Pakarita had just fallen beneath the power of Matwana, and the latter had set out on an ex- pedition against the Tambookies. The Mantatees, under their chief Sikonyella, still held possession of a mountain, from which their enemies were not able to expel them ; but the surface of the mountain, though extensive, not being capable of affording pasturage to all the cattle which they required, they became a band of freebooters. No longer in dread of the chief and people, whom Matwana had left behind him, they began to be trouble- some ; but, having given them a signal defeat, Moshesh embraced the opjiortunity now afforded him of emi- grating with his people to Thaba Bossio, where he now resides. This remarkable spot is about seventy or eighty miles south-west of Boutabouta, and about fifteen from the Blue Mountains, or Maloutis. It was chosen by the chief as his future residence, on account of an isolated table mountain, to which he and his people could retreat when attacked, and on which it would be an easy matter for them to defend themselves against the enemies of whom they had any dread. The mountain has a plateau on its summit, nearly a league in circumference. It is accessible only by five ravines, and these are capable of being easily defended against any forces which their enemies among the natives could bring against them. The mountain is called Thaba Bossio, or the " Mountain of Night," and presents a very picturesque appearance from the surrounding country. On its summit there are three separate villages. Here Moshesh has two tolerably well- built stone houses, and which might be exceedingly comfortable and respectable, if he had but a wife to look after them. He has so many, (it is said fifty), that nobody attends to them properly, and they are becoming dilapi- dated. There has also been excellent and expensive furniture ; but here also is seen the curse and misery of polygamy, for everything is ruined and perishing. 312 HISTORY OF MOSHESH. The summit of this mountain is indurated sandstone resting on granite. The French Mission premises, which stand in a gorge near the base of the mountain, add an indescribable charm to the picture. They rest on ground which has been raised above the base of the mountain, and is thought to be of more recent formation than Thaba Bossio. The ascent to the plateau is neither difficult nor dangerous, but somewhat fatiguing. One of the principal paths consists of a basaltic dyke, about ten feet in Avidth, formed when in a molten state. and which has acted strongly on all the sandstone in its immediate vicinity. It has passed down one side of the hill, and after meeting some obstruction there, has crossed the valley and intersected the hills on the opposite side. Moshesh is favourably known already by all those who take an interest in South African politics, and by all who are familiar with the valuable and successful Missions established in his country by the Paris Missionary Society. It may not be unacceptable to add here a few notices connected with the fmlher histoiy and character of this remarkable man. He is endowed with a mind naturally fond of improve- ment. He seems to have felt that his tribe Avas in a state of bai'barous ignorance, even before the contrast presented by civilized nations had apprised him of the fact. Not more than thirty years ago, he had not as much as a suspicion of the existence of white nations, and had never seen either a gun or a horse ; he is now perhaps possessed of the gi-eatest number of fire-arms and horses of any chief in South Africa. His eager disposition to reform is seconded in him by a total absence of those superstitious fears which exert so baneful an influence on the minds of his countiymen. He appears to have, even from his childhood, considered as false all pretensions to supernatural power in man. In order to satisfy himself and others on this subject, he feigned on two occasions to be very ill, and consulted the CHARACTER OF MOSHKSH. 313 most accredited ivitch smellers of the country. They went through all then- usual ceremonies, pointed out the guilty persons, and pronounced their doom, to the great amaze- ment and amusement of the young chief, who was con- scious of enjoying perfect health. One of his most commendable traits is a perfect com- mand of his temper, and a natural dislike to harsh measures, and any kind of revenge. This he has displayed on many occasions, to a most astonishing degree. Some years ago, being on the eve of undertaking a warlike expedition against the Tambookies, he placed his children and his people under the protection of Sikonyella, a chief of the Mantatee tribe, who had beeu for a long time his most inveterate enemy. Sikonyella appeared to feel himself honoured by that mark of confidence, and gave the most solemn promises. Moshesh had, however, no sooner departed with all his foi'ces, than Sikonyella sent, in the most treacherous man- ner, a strong party of men to destroy the people of Thaba Bossio. Happily, the old men left at home, and some courageous females, repelled the attack, and gave the Mantatees cause to repent of it. Moshesh, at his return, felt extremely indignant ; but to the present day has abstained from revenge. He has also, by his example and interference, imparted to his tribe a character of humanity and gentleness of manners, very remarkable. Kobberies and murders are almost unheard of. Foreigners are everywhere respected and well received. Capital punishments have been long abolished, and replaced by heavy fines. "I wonder," said Moshesh to a friend, discussing that subject, "that kings should not have all felt the projiriety of following the example of God, in the punishment of crime. There are many men who do not fear death ; but there are none above the dread of a life of want and infamy." These observa- tions of his are given here without discussion on their merit. 314 OPINION OF WATERBOER. The only chief in South Africa, with whom Moshesh may be compared, is Waterboer ; and yet the circum- stances under Avhich their minds have been formed, and the respective features of their character, differ in so many points, that it Avould require much time and very ample details to do them justice. Both consider Christianity as the source of European greatness, and as the only instrument by which barbarous or savage tribes around them can be elevated ; but the views of Moshesli are more vague and indefinite on this subject, than those of Waterboer. It is questionable whether Moshesh is most influenced by policy or principle, in the favour he shows to the pro- motion of the Christian religion among his people — per- haps the former predominates; but he has a keen percep- tion of the excellency of Christian principle. The charac- ter of Waterboer is not unknown to him, and the mention of his name in his hearing, gave rise, says Dr. Philip, to one of the finest bursts of feeling he had ever witnessed. Being asked if he knew Waterboer, the tears came into his eyes, every feature of his face glowed with admiration and benevolence, while he exclaimed, "I have never seen Waterboer. Would that I were near that man ! Water- boer is a good man ; he saved thousands of my peoi:)le from destruction ; rescued them out of the hands of their enemies ; retook for many of them the cattle of which they had been robbed ; fed those who were entirely destitute ; furnished them with cattle and sheep out of his own herd^ and flocks, and gave them leave to retvu'n to me with all their herds, when he knew I wished for them, and could protect them." In this account Moshesh gives of the conduct of Water- boer towards his people, he refers to the calamities brought upon the Basutos by the invasion of their country by the Zoolus, and the robberies committed on those of them who fled to the west, and were robbed of their cattle by the Corannas and Bergenaars. EEMAEKS OF MOSHESU. 315 Waterboer acted a noble part to that people in their dis- tress, and it was by the report of those who had been saved by his instrumentality, and who had returned to Moshesh, that that chief had been led to form so favourable an opinion of his character. It was in 1835, during the Kaffir war, that Moshesh began to take a deep interest in our colonial affairs. The progress of that war was watched by him with great in- tensity of feeling, and the terms which were given to the Kaffirs, in restoring to them their countiy, astonished him, and inspired him with the most favourable opinion of British justice and generosity. The favourable impression made upon his mind by the conduct of the Government in this instance, has been greatly deepened by the present state of the law, in reference to the coloured classes. A generous and noble act he can understand ; but he con- fesses that he is lost in astonishment at the workings of a system that protects the poor from the oppression of the rich. " My poor people," says he, "go into the colony; they enter into contracts with colonial masters ; if they are badly used, or the conditions of their contracts are not fulfilled on the part of the masters, they have only to com- plain to a neighbouring magistrate, and they obtain re- dress ; and in journeys of weeks and months, they return home with their little property in as much security as if they had had an army to defend them ; while I find that I cannot save my people from the oppression of those who should do them justice, nor afford them protection if I am not myself present with them." He perceives that a nation must be great, where the poor can obtain justice; that the tribes of Africa never can be elevated without it ; and that it can be obtained by the principles of the Bible only ; but he cannot form a con- ception of how so much public virtue can exist in a world in wliich men are so much swayed by their private interests. To see such a mind, in such circumstances, grappling ;n6 TREATY WITH SIR 0. KAPIER. witli such subjects, furnishes one of the most interestinir spectacles which can come within the sphere of our obser- vation, and it is to us, at this moment, doubly interesting, from the position he occupies, and fiom the use the Go- vernment may make of him for the future security of the colony, and the preservation and improvement of the na- tive tribes of the interior.* The Basutos, with their chieftain Moshesh, complain bitterly of the conduct of Sir H. Smith in depriving them of a large section of their country, and yet they fear that their complaints and remonstrances are in vain. The history of this case may be summed up in a short compass. It was shortly after the Kaffir war of 1834-5, that com- munications began to be made by the colonial Govern- ment, of a friendly character, with Moshesh. Sir B. D 'Urban conveyed to bira messages and assurances of friendship, and in the course of a year afterwards. Dr. AndreAV Smith, a medical officer connected with the Government, a highly intelligent and enterprising traveller in South Africa, was charged to present Moshesh with a cloak and medal, in token of his being regarded as a friend of the Govern- ment. Early in 1842, the Rev. Dr. Philip was visiting this part of the country, and suggested the idea of a treaty with the British Government ; and in 1843 a treaty was sent by Sir G. Napier, the Governor, and which was signed by Moshesh hi the presence of the Missionaries, the principal men of his tribe, and a Government agent. Some remon- strances were made by the Wesleyans against those limits Accorded to Moshesh in that treaty, which included Plat- berg, Thaba Unchu, Merumetsu, and Lishuani. The emigrant Boers employed all their means to preju- dice IVIoshesh against the British Government, but in vain ; * For some of the above remarks, I have availed myself of a small unpublished pamphlet, given me by Dr. Philip, and I believe drawn up by him. sin p. MAITLAND. 317 for which the Lieut. Governor Colonel Hare, when on a visit at Colesberg, highly commended the chieftain. Pot- gieter, a leading man among the Boers, endeavoured strongly to detach Moshesh from his connexion with the British, but he remained firm and unshaken. In 1845, a war with the emigrant Boers broke out, and Sir P. Maitland, the Governor, highly approved of the con- duct of Moshesh, who had not suffered his alliance with the British to be violated. It was on his meeting with the Governor at Touw Fontein tbat Sir P. Maitland solicited a tract of country from Moshesh lying between the Cale- don and Orange Rivers, on behalf of the emigrant Boers. This Moshesh conceded, and the Governor promised, on his part, to withdraw the Boers within those limits, who were scattering themselves over the country of the chief Shortly after this, another small section of his country was solicited, on behalf of the Government, through Mr. Jou- bert, for the Boers; and Moshesh, in a friendly spirit that did him great credit, granted that also. About the end of 1845 or the beginning of 1846, a meet- ing of chiefs was held at Platberg with a view to some final arrangement of their disputes as to territorial boundaries. It was agreed that a commission should be ajipointed, and Moshesh was informed by the Governor that it would be sent. In 1846, a Kaffir war broke out, and Moshesh was invited to hold himself and his people in readiness to assist the British. He made preparations accordingly, and his fide- lity and zeal were highly commended by the Government. At the close of that war. Sir H. Smith proclaimed the Sovereignty, as described in the last chapter, and pro- nounced that natives should not be removed from the places in which they were then resident. In April, 1848, Pretorius on behalf of the emigrant Boers, called Moshesh to account for having aided the British. This letter was reported to the Governor, who replied again to Moshesh in high terms of commendation and friendship. 31 S MOSHESH DEPRIVED OF LAND. Within three months the Boer war again broke out. Moshesh sent to assist IVIajor Warden and at the close of that, ■war (September) the Governor met Moshesh at \Miibuig and renewed his protestations of regard and friendship. Next month, SikonyeHa burnt a Basuto viUage, and war commenced. Moshesh took cattle from him, which he Avas ordered to return, by the Governor's Secretary, without an inquiry into the merits of the case. This peremptory d( - mand exasperated the Basutos, and the war was re-kindltd. The case was referred to the Governor, and all partii > ordered to keep the peace for a month. At the expiratidu of that time, Sikonyella attacked the Basutos (1st January 1849), killed several, and took much cattle at Rantsane. Just before this, Mr. Southeyhad proposed new limits to Moshesh, which would deprive him of nearly half his habit- able country; and to this Moshesh objected, through his friend Mr. Casalis, as being utterly at variance with the treaty of 1843, the minute at Touw Fontein, made by Sir V. Maitland, the proclamation of Sir H. Smith, SBth January and 3rd February, 1848, and his renewed promise in Sep- tember of the same year. While Sikonyella was attacking Eantsane, a letter arrived from the Governor, ordering both parties to abstain from war and to return the cattle they had respectively taken. Limits were also made for Sikonyella. The several chiefs were convened at Platberg, in January 1849. Sikonyella refused to attend, and said he should continue the war. Moshesh wished Major Warden to use his influence to restore peace, and sent friendly messages to Sikonyella, but in vain. In April, Major Warden invited Moshesh to meet him at Koesberg. Some twenty-six days' delay occurred in con- veying the letter, and by some unfortunate contre temjjs. Moshesh did not meet the IMajor. A petty warfare con- tinued, and limits were again prepared for Moshesh, which, though not depriving him of all the land which Mr. Southey had proposed, greatly altered the boundaries fixed by Sir G. METHOD OF DEPEIVATION. 319 Xapier, in the treaty of 1843. In July, Moshesh restored the cattle he had taken, and all parties, it was thought, were satisfied and would remain at peace. An attack, however, was made by Sikonyella and some Corannas on Molitsani, many of the people of Mokuatling were killed, and Basuto villages attacked. Moshesh writes then to Major Warden for explanation and redi^ess. The Major states, that he had ordered these invading parties to remain still and not make an attack. They affirm, that they had the Major's sanction for what they did. The Major throws the blame on Molitsani, but gives no explanation as to the attack on the villages belonging to Moshesh. An attack was again made on Mokuatling ; many of the people were killed and the villages burnt. Moshesh asks for I'edress, and refutes as calumnies the charges brought against him. The chiefs are then all summoned to Bloem Fontein, a safe conduct is promised, and " any injury done to the tribes during the meeting would be surely and severely punished." And on the '25th August, 1849, while that meeting was being held, Sikonyella and the Corannas attacked the villages belonging to Moletsani and Moshesh, and destroyed many of the inhabitants. A meeting is again summoned. Moshesh did not attend it. The limits for Moshesh are proposed to Letsie, his son. He refused to sign them, but conveyed them to his father, the Major explicitly telling him that Moshesh required to be humbled, or he (Major Warden) could long since have checked the Corannas and Sikonyella ; and that he could do nothing now to secure peace, till these new limits were signed by Moshesh. The chief, finding that he must suffer by such a war, and that his enemies were backed and encouraged by the Government authorities, signed the limits, 1st October, 1849, still hoping the Governor would not confirm them, and confiding in his justice and regard to his repeated promises. These limits were then sent to the Governor for confir- mation. A suitable protest was also sent by the Missionaries residing near Moshesh, against the manner in which the SaO THABA nOSSIO. GovorniiKMit authorities had acted in obtaininr^ these new boundary lines, and defrauding the chief of so much ter- ritor>-. The Governor, however, confirmed this new boundarv line, and thereby deprived Moshesh of an immense and valuable tract of his country; assured the Missionaries that he knew they were actuated by the best of motives, but thinks tliey could not form an impartial judgment and do justice to all parties ! We spent a Sunday at Thaba Bossio. The Mission was under the care of the Rev. W. Dyke. Mr. Casalis, senior Missionary of the station, was absent. He had lately proceeded to Europe, on a visit to the Paris Society and his friends. We found good congregations, and, upon the whole, an encouraging state of things, though, for the time, much interrupted and retarded by the political troubles in which the people were involved in consequence of circumstances affecting their territorial rights, as already explained. During our stay at this station, we went up early one morning to pay the chieftain a visit. W^e found him busily engaged in hearing a detailed account of an affair which had lately occinrred between Pushule, his brother, and Major Warden, the Resident. He was in his native dress. and not as he had appeared on Sunday, at chapel, in good European clothing. Mr. Arbousset, who had accompanied us up the hill, suggested to him that he should make his appearance in a costume rather more befitting the cir- cumstances of a vdsit, "including that of a teacher from London, the great city of England, where the Queen of Great Britain resides ! " Moshesh quietly took the hint. but pleaded as an apology, that the teacher knew he had clothes, since he had seen him wearing them on Sunday. However, he went and dressed himself, and in the mean- time we walked about the hill, and enjoyed a splendid view of the magnificent Malouti range. After waiting about an hour, we were invited into the house, and took our seats in an inner room, on a sofa CONVERSATION WITH MOSIIESH. 821 covered with tiger- skins. Shortly afterwards Moshesh entered, and several of his people, and filled the room. Mr. Arbousset distinctly explained to Moshesh the objects of my visit — that they had relation to the Missions and the Missionaries, and that I came in no political capacity, nor as a trader. He gave him also an outline of my jour- ney hitherto, and of my anticipated route back to England. I then entered into conversation with him, through Mr. Arbousset as my interpreter. Moshesh remarked, that he had not referred on Sundaij to the matters on which he now wished to speak, because he knew that that was a day we set apart for our religious services. He then entered into a detailed relation of his connexion with the colony, and of the circumstances of which he thought he had just reason to complain, in the treatment he had received. This statement of his affairs occupied a couple of hours, when he ordered coffee to be brought in. He again con- tinued his narrative till one o'clock, when he accompanied us to Mr. Dyke's, w^iere he finished what he had to say, and then returned home. He looked grave and earnest, honest and truthful, during his narrative. His people listened with intense interest. They are evidently shrewd and intelligent. They perfectly comprehended the whole matter on which they were conversing. They were quite able to make out a good case for themselves ; and though possibly there may be a few points in their statements that would admit of modification, it would yet be most difficult to prove that they have not had hard measure, very hard measure, dealt out to them. These people have a keen sense of the just and the unjust, the true and the false, and they deeply feel that they have been unjustly and most unti-uly dealt with, and that too by a Government professing higher and nobler things. They feel helpless against the power of the Bri- tish, and they are hopeless as to obtaining justice. It is thus easy to see, under such circumstances, how SiJii FBJiNCH MISSIONARIES. much prejudice is created against the Missionary and his uinis. He is looked on as one of the same people. He is a white man, and the white man is found to he rapa- cious and unjust. If the Missionary expresses dissatisfac- tion witli such measures — and how can he avoid it? — then he is not only obliged to enter into perpetual collision with the Government, but to make himself of easy access to the native, to listen to all his complaints, to find much of his valuable time consumed in these appeals, and yet to be able to secure for them little or no redress. And in these French Missions in the Basuto country, there is the additional difficulty, that its Missionaries are French and not English, and have felt themselves placed in the most delicate position, lest as natives from a foreign government they might give offence to the British Govern- ment by their interference in the politics of the country. For these prudential reasons, the Directors of the Society in Paris have restricted their agents here from interference in these matters, lest they should at all compromise them- selves Avith the Government, and thereby endanger their Missions altogether. This has rendered them so cautious, as to awaken occasionally a suspicion in the minds of the natives, that they do not sufficiently sympathise with thein, or that, if English Missionaries had been on the spot, instead of French, native interests might have been better defended and secured. Before INIoshesh left me to return to his village on the hill, he placed in my hand a written document, most strongly requesting me to bring his case under the notice of her Majesty's Government, on my return home. It will have been already seen, that I stated his case to Earl Grey in my letters from the colony and the Mauritius. On reaching England, I again stated the case to his Lordship, and I placed in the hands of Lord John Eussell, as Premier, the document with which Moshesh had intrusted me, as containing his touching appeal to her Majesty. I MOSHESH TO QUEEN VICTOKLA.. 323 venture to insert it here, and I am persuaded it will be read with interest, as the earnest and respectful appeal of the man of whom I have said so much in this chapter, to the highest authority in the British realms. Copy of Translation of Letter from Moshesh to J. J. Freeman, " Thaba Bosigo, " Rev. Me. Freeman, " February 14, 1850. "Sir,— " When you return to England, and there see yoiu- Sovereign, be so kind as to tell her from me as follows : ' I beg of you, O Queen, to re- ceive my respectful salutations. I have had the opportunity of seeing one of your subjects, a teacher from yovu- great town ; it is Mr. Freeman. " ' I have poru'ed out my words in my anxiety, even all my words, giving them over to this your subject, and I hope he will keep them in his heart, and will faitlifuUy pour them out in your presence ; they are all mine ; yoiu- ear will hear fi-ora him what I have revealed. " ' I say I am quite grateful on account of this man, it ha^-ing relieved my mind to see him. I was in want of some one who could hear my words, and these I have intrusted to hira are not the lie of any one, but a truth of mine indeed. Be pleased to listen favoiirably Tinto them, and after having heard how I have spoken to him, do thou, O Queen, act as it shall please you, as it will appear just and proper to you to act in such a way as that my anxiety may be rem.oved. I have ended. Long live in peace, O Queen, I remain your grieved but faithful ally, Moshesh.' " May you. Sir, prosper in your way, and let God accompany all your steps. " I am yours, (Signed) X « MOSHESH. "Witnesses, Molapo, Son of Moshesh. Abraham Zeill, Counsellor, " H. M. Dyke, V.D.M., Interpreter:' I inclosed the above in a letter addressed to Lord John Piussell, of which the following is a copy. I insert it here, as assisting to give a clear view of the whole case. " Blonifield Street, Finsbury, "Ust March, 1851. " To the Right Honourable Lord John Russell, First Lord of the Treasury, &c., &c., &c. " Mv Lord, — " Diu'ing a late visit which I paid to the Cape of Good Hope, and 32.1 LF.TTER TO LORD JOHN RUSSELL. various countries adjacent to the colony, I had much intercourse -with Jloshesh, chief of the Basutos, and Captain Adam Kok, one of the cliiefs of the Griquas, besides others whom I need not now specify. •' The two chiefs whom I have named, expressed to me in the plainest terms, their extreme dissatisfaction with arrangements made by His Excellency Sir Harry Smith, ' Her Majesty's High Commis- sioner for the adjustment of the territories of these several border tribes,' by which arrangements they were respectively deprived of lar<»e portions of their countries, and, as they consider, in an arbitrary and unjust manner. Failing in obtaining redress fi-om Sir Harry Snuth, these chiefs and their people have importimed me to bring their case, on my return to England, under the direct notice of her Majesty's Government, " I have communicated with the Eight Honourable Earl Grey on these subjects. I am not certain whether his Lordship is adopting anv measures in relation to them ; but I beg now to put into youi Lordship's hands, as the head of her Majesty's Government, the docu- ment wliich I received from Moshesh, accompanied by a translation, containing the message of Moshesh to her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen, authenticating me as the bearer of his message, and his request to me to convey the said message — the substance of which is, that he has been deprived, contrary to existing treaties, of a large portion of his territory, as seen in the accompanying outUne of a map. "I beg permission to remai-k, that I think the case of Moshesh is a hard case, and for the sake of justice and the peace of the colony, merits an impartial investigation on the spot. " I beg permission further to recommend the same measure of inqiiiry respecting the complaints of the Griquas under Captain Adam Kok. " " I trust your Lordship vnR forgive me in adding my most de- liberate conviction, that although with the forces sent from this countiy to strengthen the hand of the Governor, Sir H. Smith may succeed in putting down the present outbreak of the Kaffirs, nothing will restore tranquillity and secure permanent peace to the colony — nothing will re-create confidence in the minds of the native tribes to- ward the British Government, but an immediate Commission of Inquiry, that will on the spot patiently hear the complaints, and assure them of her Majesty's wish to afford even-handed justice to all her subjects, and the favom'ablo treatment of all her allies. " I have the honour to be &c., &c. "J. J. F." BASUTO BOUNDARIES. 325 In reply to that portion of my letter to Earl Grey, which charges Sir H. Smith with depriving Moshesh of a part of his country, and which letter Lord Grey had sent to Sir H. Smith, he gz'avely asserts, that he has not deprived Mo- shesh of any part of his country, but merely defined the boundary lines. I again as distinctly, deliberately, and solemnly affirm, that Sir H. Smith has deprived Moshesh of a part of his country, a large and valuable portion of it. The boundary line, as made by Sir G. Napier and Sir P. Maitland, has been greatly altered to the prejudice of Moshesh, against his consent, excepting as obtained by intimidation, and without any compensation. I repeat, with extreme pain and reluctance, that Sir H. Smith's denial of my charge is not founded in truth, and cannot bear examination. I appeal from that denial to Lord Grey himself, and to Sir H. Smith's own more deliberate judgment. To all this, I venture to add, by way of further elucida- tion, that the boundary lines of the Basuto country, as laid down by his Excellency Sir George Napier, in 1843, and acted on by his immediate successor. Sir Peregrine Mait- land, may be stated thus, as an approximation : — its most southern point on the western side is 28^° south latitude; it extends to 31° in the north, and from about 20° 40' east longitude, to nearly 29°. The country included within these figures is, however, of an extremely irregular shape. It may possibly contain from 10,000 to 11,000 square miles. At least one-fourth of this must be considered as comparatively useless, on account of its lofty, precijjitous, and almost inaccessible mountains. There might thus remain about 8000 square miles of territory, fit for grazing, containing large patches of arable land. But from this 8000 must be deducted 1500 at least, for tracts of disputed country, occupied by Mantatees, Barolongs, and others, not recognizing allegiance to Moshesh. And from tlie balance of country thus left, must now be deducted about one half, as claimed by Sir H. Smith, Chief Commissioner to her ^20 MORIJA STATION. Majesty's Govemmeiit for settling the affairs of the horcler tribes of South Africa, in their relation with the colony ; and against which seizure of his territory, the chieftain Moshesh, and his people, bitterly, indignantly, and justly complain. Leaving Thaba Bossio, we proceeded to Morija, to j^ay a visit to Mr. Arbousset and his Mission station. The village consists of numerous huts, of a bee-hive shape. There is usually a smaller hut attached to them, like an oven, and which is used as a dormitory. The entrance to the hut is extremely low and inconvenient, being seldom more than two feet high. Several of the people have lately built square houses, in imitation of the European residences, and they now like them much better than the old ones. But scai'cely any wood is found in the countiy ; and therefore, the difficulty of procuring suitable roofs is an adequate reason for there being but few of this im- proved structure. It seems that many of the people have lately removed to a distance. This in part arises from the migratoiy habit of all these natives, who get tired of living always in the same locality. It arises too, in part, from the occupation of their lands by the Boers, and the late decisions and regulations of the British Government in reference to their territory. I had an opportunity of a long and somewhat interesting conversation with the chief, Letsie, in the presence of his uncle Paulus Matebe, and many of his people. He came to visit me at Mr. Arbousset's, and Mr. Moffat and Mr. Christie were also present. Letsie the elder, a son of Moshesh by his first or principal wife, is chief of Morija, and a man of considerable importance. He is greatly dis- satisfied with the present state of affairs, and considers the Basuto people as injured, oppressed, and despoiled by the measures of Sir Harry Smith, the Governor, in refer- ence to the forcible occupation of their lands. He seems hopeless as to any application to the British Government ; THE SCRIPTURES REQUIRED. 327 he has no confidence in its honour or justice. He regards himself as injured hy a stronger party, against whom re- dress is beyond his reach. EUa Massika resides here at Morija. He was sent some time back, as a Cliristian teaclier, to visit the tribe of the Basseri; he reached MagaUsberg, and was from thence sent back by the Dutch farmers, who refused him permis- sion to proceed farther. It struck me that a second Missionary might advan- tageously be placed with Mr. Arbousset, whose station is very large, so that a larger portion of his time might be devoted to translation and correcting the pi'ess. The press itself might, perhaps, be placed at Morija : it is now at Beersheba ; but Mr. Eoland's hands are too full to permit him to attend to it. I think decidedly, that much more must be done for this Mission by the press than heretofore. The whole Scrii[)tures must be given to the people. The Scriptures may be extensively cir- culated among them. Other books should be prepared and printed as rapidly as possible. The minds of the people must be interested and engaged, or the work, so auspiciously commenced, will prove a failure. In no case, I think, may the living voice of the preacher con- tinue to be a substitute for the written volume of the lively oracles of God. The people must have the sacred volume, and take it home and examine it, as the Be.i-eans did. God must be honoured by the circulation of his Word, and he will put honour upon it, as the means of men's conversion, and building up believers upon the most holy faith. We left Morija and returned to Thaba Bossio. On our way, Mr. Dyke pointed out to me the village where the native Libey had resided, of whose conversion, in extreme old age, a highly interesting account was forwarded to Paris by Mr. Casalis, and part of which appeared in our "Juvenile Missionary Magazine." The conversion of that old man is one of the most striking instances in modern 338 SOURCES OF THE ORANGE AXD CALEDON. times, of the power of the Gospel. He was one of the most inveterate enemies of Divine truth, but was by its influence softened and subdued. The bold, fierce, har- dened barbarian, was made to sit as a little child at the feet of the Saviour. The people who knew the man, and saw the change produced in him, and heard his confes- sion, said, that " it was a miracle." He died about three years ago, upwards of ninety years of age. On our way to Morija we crossed many " sluits " and " spruits," that is, " water- courses" formed by mountain torrents and small streams, or beds of streams, formed by springs from the mountains. All these run to the Caledon Eiver, which has its source in the " INIonte aux Sources," so named by Messrs. Arbousset and Daumas, and which they describe as placed in the northern ex- tremity of the Blue Mountain chain, about 10,000 feet above the level of the sea, about twelve leagues in circum- ference, with a large table or plateau on the summit, covered with fine vegetation, and which constitutes one of the highest summits of the range. The Caledon, named so after Lord Caledon, flows on the eastern side of this mountain. The native name is Mogakari, that is, "through the middle," because it rolls between the coun- try of the Basutos and Mantatees. The Orange Eiver flows from the same mountain on the opposite side. There was one part of the road that struck me as remarkable. It was about two hours' ride from Thaba Bossio. On a descent, in an open plain, and before reaching a large torrent-bed, the ground Avas strewed with agate pebbles for many yards in width, and, as far as we could see, they reached to a considerable depth in the soil. I saw none of great value, though possibly, could we have remained some time, and examined the spot moi'e closely, we might have found many worth collect- ing, and especially by digging a little way in the ground. Wliere they could all come from I could not ascertain ; many bushels, if not cart-loads, might be gathered. I VILLAGES VISITED. 329 find them, more or less, in all this part of the country — in the river beds, and on the mountain sides, where there is basalt, and on the tops of the mountains. They are found in the basalt, which occurs frequently north of the Orange River, as well as south of it. But very few com- plete or perfect specimens are met with. The basalt dis- integrates by exposure to the air and weather ; the agates formed in the interstices or air-holes of the basalt, then fall out and get broken among the blocks and fragments. I met also at Morija, Mr. and Mrs. Maeder, of the same Mission. Mr. Maeder is an architect, and evidently a man of taste and genius. He superintends the building of the new chapel, which is in progress. It will be an excellent building, quite an ornament to the place, and worthy of a state of society still in advance of the present. Its measurement is eighty feet by forty. Its cost may be about £600 ; the whole of which has been raised by Mr. Arbous- set's exertions, chiefly among friends in the colony, and wholly without touching the Society's funds. It is an important feature in this Mission station at Morija, that it possesses so much facility for village teach- ing. There are not fewer tlien 278 villages regularly visited by various members of the church. These visitors consist of twenty-two bands, and they have allotted to them so many villages as they can respectively undertake to visit. Usually the bands consist of about six members of the church. In fifty-three of the villages there are members of the church residing, some more, some less ; most of the villagers, therefore, it is evident, are still hea- then, though some among them occasionally attend the preaching. The population in the district thus visited may amount to about 12,000, and as these are brought within the sound of Divine truth, tlu'ough the medium of the station, it is obvious that a very large amount of moral influence is exercised in the country by this i)arti- cular Mission. A regular account is kept of the villages, the members, and the bands of visitors. There are 320 830 PARTING FROM MESSRS. MOFFAT AND CHRISTIE. members in church-fellowship, and nearly 50 candidates. The station being farther from the seat of war, has not suffered so much deterioration as other stations. All the Mission premises here were built by Mr. Maeder, and they are very neatly and appropriately constructed. His own house, and study particularly, are models of neat- ness, in a land so uncivilized. The present chapel is in the form of a T- It has an earthen pulpit, and there are a few earthen seats for the hearers ; most of the people bring their seats with them, a very incommodious plan. They are of all sizes and shapes ; not a few are the stumps of trees, or roots, which have so grown and are so gnarled, that a person can just manage to sit on them without being tilted over or raised too high from the ground. Timber is obtained for the new chapel, and I presume there will be seats provided of a better kind ; for though it is no annoyance or humiliation to a native to sit on the ground, it is opposed to "civilization" and improvement; it spoils good clothes, and makes the wearer less willing to use, or even to obtain them. The first step here in civilization seems to be, putting on European clothing ; and the second step is, to sit on some kind of seat instead of the earth. From Thaba Bossio we proceeded back to Platberg. There I parted with my companions, INIr. IMoffat and his daughter, and Mr. Christie, the former returning homeward by way of Bloem Fontein, and the latter to Philippolis. Our parting from each other was a moment in which I believe none of our hearts permitted to say more than "adieu," not knowing the things that might befall us, and conscious that, amidst the distant and changing scenes of life before us respectively, we might not meet again, — till the day when all the generations of the human family shall stand before the great tribunal. Little did we know at that moment what mournful intelligence awaited Mr. Christie, and which, ere the evening closed in, he would receive. His daughter, an DEATH OF MISS CHRISTIE. 331 amiable and excellent young person, whom he left in health at Cape Town with her mother, under the roof of Dr. Philip, (Mrs. Christie's father,) had imprudently sat up in bed to read by candle-light — fell asleep — the clothes took fire — she was fearfully burnt. Her sufferings were gx'eat, though not much prolonged ; her gentle spirit was released, and admitted to realms beyond the reach of accident and death. Mr. Moffat had been my companion now for nearly ten weeks ; and I cannot bring myself to close this notice of our journeyings together, without adding a few observations. I found him, wherever we went, possessing a large amount of influence over the native mind. The chiefs and head men almost everywhere know him either personally or by report ; and either they, or their fathers, or uncles, had had much to do with him. His ready knowledge of the lan- guage, and extremely facile address, are great advantages. He speaks Sichuana more readily than even English, and his Dutch was highly approved. I found him always ready for every good word and work, — ready to take his part in every service, however brief the notice. His mind appeared to me much imbued with a sense of the brevity and fieetness of human life, and of the vast importance of seeking to fill up diligently its remaining portion for the noblest pur- poses. His heart is set on the translation of the Scriptures into Sichuana. He sees the importance of its being got into early and extensive circulation. His mind is con- stantly occupied with collecting and comparing words and phrases for the translation, and this becomes with him a topic of frequent and earnest conversation whenever the opportunity occurs of adding anything to his philological stores. In years, he is not aged ; in health, though he is yet vigorous, there may be detected some few signs of an approaching and insidious diminution of wonted strength. From Platberg I reached MokuatUng, Mr. Daumas's station, accompanied by Mr. Dyke. The approach to the Mission-house is through an avenue of syjinga trees, 330 MOKUATLING. which have a very agreeable effect. Here are some ex- cellent gardens, both large and productive ; and, happily for me, I arrived when many of the fruits were ripe, — apples, grapes, peaches, and a few figs. The garden is surrounded by a good wall, and the vineyard neatly inclosed with reeds. The neighbouring village has been within a few months barbarously destroyed by a Coranna party, under Gert Taybosch. The houses have not a vestige remaining, but the sites are there, and the stone cattle-kraals are there. Gert Taybosch had for some time past, and till recently, lived at Umpakani, Mr. Schreiner's station. He appears to have acted in concert with Sikon- yella in this attack on Moletsani's village. Taybosch shortly after left the country and went fai'ther into the interior. For this measure, one reason assigned is, the contiguity of British authority. Bloem Fontein was brought too near the spot he was occupying, and found to be too obsen'ant of his marauding schemes. All this matter requires to be investigated. For the British Government to interfere with the native chiefs, and demand the peaceable arrangement of their disputes, without bloodshed, may be well — a plan full of benevo- lence and wholesome policy, if faithfully carried out; but to interfere partially, to encom'age tacitly one party to attack another, to demand another to sit still while attacked, to allow hostile parties to pass the British territory in order to make an attack, and then to punish a native chief for doing the same thing — all this can cause only jealousies, retaliations, and wrongs. It may deserve notice, that Taybosch's party on attack- ing the \'illage respected the chapel and Mission property. They kept at a distance from these ; and hence, those of the natives who had taken shelter under the wing of the Missionary were safe. The chief himself was for some time concealed in the house of Mr. Daumas. The chapel here is suitable and substantial. The seats with which it is filled give it a very neat and even superior cannibals' cave. 333 appearance. There is no room left for any to " squat " on the ground. The Missionaries all appear very familiar with the native language, which is a branch of the Sichu- ana. The congregation was tolerably good at the time of my visit. The chapel can accommodate about 400 hearers. The church -members amount to about 100. There Avere no schools being held at that time : the children were all engaged in the fields, watching the corn. There are many and extensive plantations of wheat. The cattle graze at a distance, and usually on high ground, so that they do not intrude on the cultivated corn-lands, though none of these are inclosed. Of wild beasts there are none ; and even game is now exceedingly scarce : I saw none in the Basuto countiy. Having understood that cannibalism formerly prevailed extensively in this part of the country, and that some cannibal cases existed in the immediate neighbourhood of the station, I inquired of Mr. Daumas about it, and he accordingly took me to a large cave that had been a few years ago one of these " dai'k places of the earth," — a habitation of cruelty. We rode part of the way and walked the rest, reaching it with no small difficulty. It is near the summit of the kloof or ravine adjoining tlie IMission station. It cannot properly be called a cave ; it is a sheltered spot, immediately under a large ledge of projecting rock, not affording room for any one to stand upright, but where many might find shelter and conceal- ment, in a sitting posture or lying down. Immense quantities of fragments of bones lie scattered about, and fragments of the earthen pots used in cooking the horrid food. A few fragments of the bones, skulls, ribs, teeth, &c., I brouglit away with me, as humiliating mementos of this awful spot, where many have been the victims of this most dreadfully unnatural propensity. It appears, that in watching for their victims, these cannibals usually seated themselves on the summit of the hill, and having spied some unfortunate traveller 334 CANiN'IBALISM. coming across the plain, means were concerted to catch the unsuspecting prey. If there were resistance, they were killed on the spot and carried home piecemeal ; if not, they were bound and driven towards the cave, and then destroyed as appetite demanded. The principal cave appears to have been in the neighbourhood of Cana. Until recently, Cana was a Mission station, but has been given up, in consequence of the haughty and unfriendly treatment the Missionary received, rendering his further residence there at present undesirable in the opinion of the brethren. The quantities of human bones found there are said to have been awful. All these revolting practices have long since been abolished. Moshesh had steadily and benevolently opposed them, even prior to the Mis- sionaries coming into his country. He had provided the villages where cannibalism prevailed with corn to sow their lands, and milch cows to supply them with milk, till their fields yielded a harvest. And by his generous and vigorous measures the enormity has been eradicated. During my visit to Philippolis in the Griqua countr}% I embraced an opportunity of going to see the three French Missionary stations in that vicinity, viz. Bethulie, Carmel, and Beersheba. I have purposely reserved my notice of them to this chapter, in order to introduce together the whole of the Missions of the Paris Society. Bethulie is about fifty miles from Philii^polis. Wagons and horses were kindly lent me for the occasion by Henri Vorgaam, one of the people who accompanied Mr. J. Wright and myself. We rested at the farm of Piet Draai at Schraal Fontein, an industrious, intelligent, and prosperous man, who lent us another team of eight horses and went foi-ward himself with us. On reaching the station, Mr. Pelessier and his family were unfortunately absent from home, but we met them next morning. The locality is well supplied with water, and a large portion of the ground is under cultivation. Lepui,* the chief, lives on the spot, is recognised by Sir H. Smith as * Sechuana ; and sigiiiiies a dove. CARMEL. 335 independent, and appears to be a quiet and sensible kind of man. His district formed originally part of the Griqua territory, under Adam Kok. It seems to have been part of the policy of our country to recognise as many petty chiefs as could decently be done, and so to under- mine the authority and influence of the principal chiefs. Here is a good chapel and school-house, and the attend- ance on public worship is, we were informed, encouraging. " Carmel " is the next station we visited. The locality is now comprehended within the British territory. It lies within that section of the Basuto country which has been cut off from Moshesh. Mr. Lemue is intrusted with the care of this station, aided by Mr. Lauga as secu- lar Missionary. It was intended to form here an in- stitution for the training of native teachers and school- masters. An excellent and suitable building for that pur- pose had been commenced a short time before the break- ing out of the French Eevolution of 1848. As that event interrupted the resources of the Paris Missionary Society, the progress of the building was suspended. The Com- mittee in Paris have, however, authorised the resumj)tion of the works. I lamented to see such a building unfi- nished, when already so far advanced, and for so impoilant an object. Mr. Lemue left a most favourable impression on my mind as to his adaptation for the work intrusted to him. The native population is small, and will most likely remain so, as the land is now included within the British Sovereignty. Moshesh the chief seems to wisli, naturally enough, that his own subjects should retire within the limits that still remain to him. Mr. Lemue, who formerly resided at Motito, and is familiar with the Kalliharri country, assured me that the remarkable accounts sometimes circulated as to the people of that part of Africa catching lions hij the tail, and of which, I confess, I was very incredulous, were perfectly true. He well knows that tlie method prevailed, and was certainly not uncommon among the people. Lions would sometimes become extremely dangerous. 350 CATCHING LIONS. Having become accustomed to human flesh, they would not willingly eat anything else. When a neighbourhood became infested, the men would determine on the mea- sures to be adopted to rid themselves of the nuisance ; then forming themselves into a band, they would proceed in search of their royal foe, and beard the lion in his lair. Standing close by one another, the lion would make his spring on some one of the party — every man, of course, hoping he might escape the attack — when instantly others would dash forward and seize his tail, lifting it up, close to the body, Avith all their might ; thus not only astonish- ing the animal, and absolutely taking him off his guard, but rendering his efforts powerless for the moment; while others closed in with their spears and at once stabbed the monster through and through. All this was done, not for the exciting pleasure of a lion-hunt, or as an exhibition of prowess, but to rid the vicinity of their villages of a dreadful enemy, and to save themselves from becoming in turn the breakfast or supper of this monarch of the desert. A lion anecdote was related to me, that may be worth recording. A native was rather fearful that ere long he should become the victim of a lion himself, which was known to be in his neighbourhood, unless he got the beast shot. The lion had already been to his house, and destroyed more than one victim. The man then laid a snare. He placed a kid near the door of his house to attract the lion, intending to shoot him while he was attacking the kid ; the lion, however, leaped over the kid, as if of no value, or not sufficiently dainty to satisfy his wishes, and then walked deliberately into the house. The man had, however, taken higher views ; he had climbed up outside, and was waiting with his loaded gun on the roof, and on the lion's walking out of the house, he aimed his gun well and shot him dead on the spot ; thankful, no doubt, to have saved himself and his kid. STATION AT BEERSHEBA. 337 We proceeded the next morning, after an early break- fast, to Beersheba, the station of Mr. Eolland, and which is also an exceedingly well-watered station. The stream from one of the fountains, close by the Mission premises, gives a noble volume of water, which is employed to irrigate the gardens and grounds, and to turn a small corn-mill. The spring is thermal. The village itself, or at least a considerable portion of it, is a very conspicuous object, consisting of a large number of native huts and kraals, on the sides of the kopjes or hills that abound throughout this district. Many hundreds of the natives have come under the instruction and influence of the Missionary, but they do not change their mode of living, nor do they adopt the European structure of houses. They seem still to prefer and cling to their national beehive huts, or hartebeest huts. The latter resembles in structure a cottage roof, with gable ends, all on the ground. Most of the people that I saw used the kaross or skin dress, with some kind of under garment. Most of them, I understand, are in possession of European clothing, but they reserve these for Sundays. They attend public worship, not only decently, but respectably dressed. Their habits are industrious, and they possess some property in cattle. They are saving and frugal. We remained under the roof of our friends for the night ; and were glad to find a large attendance of people next morning at the native service, which they conduct wholly by themselves. Their singing had a very pleasing effect. Mr. Eolland, who excels scientifically in this department, had trained them well. He is regarded virtually as a kind of chief, and the place is, in the eye of Moshesh, considered as almost belonging to him ; and tliat, by a kind of prescriptive right, ]\Ir. Eolland having been the first to settle there. The first peaceable set- tlers at fountains have been generally thought to have a paramount claim over them. There are upwards of 450 members of the church here, under the pastoral care z 338 ABSENCE OF CHILDREN. of Mr. Rolland. Very many can read the New Testament •well. He has many cases of deep interest among the members of his flock, and especially of those who some years ago were themselves cannibals, or identified by residence with such as Avere. About 2000 people are connected with this station. Mr. Rolland has com- menced a substantial brick dwelling-house. It is in an unfinished state, but is well worth an outlay to complete it. A new church (or chapel) is being built, of a verj- substantial character, under the superintendence of a European. It is constructed of stone found in the im- mediate neighbourhood. The peoi^le themselves render important assistance in conveying the stones, &c. .Wood is expensive ; it has all to be brought from a great dis- tance. The Mission premises are walled in ; an excellent garden is opposite the dwelling-house ; in front of the latter stands a fine row of almond-trees. Many of the sandstones here, of which formation this whole country seems to consist, contain nodules of a closer texture, but without any i-emarkable nuclei. A hill where we outspanned, on the road, appeared to me to consist almost wholly of these nodules and their matrices. Mr. Eolland, on conversing with me about his station, remarked, that on his first coming to reside here, he was struck with the almost total absence of children. The adults were numerous, but there were scarcely any young per- sons. On inquiry, it appeared that most of the children had been destroyed, thrown away, or devoured, during the wars — wars sustained up to within a very recent date. In trying to make their escape from a pursuing and ferocious enemy, none but women of a veiy strong and healthy condition could save their infants, whom they were obliged to carry with them in flight ; and often, when it Avas found these infants impeded the mother's progress, and so hindered the escape of the parents, the father would call out, " ThroAV away that thing," meaning that infant. The command was obeyed, and so tlie child " GOSPEL CHILDREN." 339 perished. The chikh-en that are now on the station, and who attend school, are called by the people them- selves, " gospel children :" a veiy emijhatic and appro- priate name, as describing how entirely they owe their veiy preservation and all the advantages which they now enjoy, to the influence of the gospel. I met at Mr. Eolland's, Mr. Keek, also a French Mis- sionary, who was formerly at a smaller station in the immediate neighbourhood of the cannibals. One cave, at a short distance from his residence, contains still the remains of about sixty huts ; their circular foundations are still there. There is a large hollow at the back of tlie cave, where human bones are very numerous, and where it is concluded that the remains of their victims were usually thrown. CHAPTEE XV. NATAL. JOURNEY TO UMPAKANI, IMPARANI SIKONYELLA LIEBENBERG's TLEl eland's river HARRISMITH BRICK-MAKER LION SKIN ROOM FOR FARMERS HORSE-SICKNESS DIFFICULT GROUND MAG- NIFICENT VIEW APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY ZOOLU KAFFIRS — CASCADE PIETER MAURITZBURG NATIVE POPULATION FARMS EMIGRANTS INDALENI MR. ALISON CIVILIZATION UYSDOORN DR. ADAMS CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY ^d'uRBAN PORT NATAL THE BAR AND BLUFF MR. HOLDER PANDER NATIVE FOREIGN- ERS AMERICAN MISSIONS NEW GERMANY COTTON SUGAR LEAVE NATAL FOR CAPE TOWN. LEAA^xG the country of ]\Ioshesli and Molitsani, I pro- ceeded towards the embryo town of " Harrismith," on my way across the Drakenberg to Natal. I spent an evening, on my way, with Mr. Sehreiner and his family, at Umpakani. He was formerl}- a INIissionary in connexion with om^ Society, but is now in connexion with the Wesleyan Society. The chief here, till lately, was Gert Taybosch. I found he had left the locality, and, it was said, had made the place over to the Wesleyan Society. I much question if it be desirable for any Society to hold more land than is needful for the Mission premises, and strictly Missionary objects; so that, the less the Missionary has to act the magistrate, the better for all parties. Mr. Daumas, from Mokuatling, and myself, re- mained with ]Mr. and IMrs. Sehreiner till after an early breakfast the following morning. Thev have a comfort- IMP.^AKI. 341 able i'esidence, and are blessed with an interesting and well-regulated family. We then rode over to Imparani, a Wesle^'an station, under the care of Mr. Daniels, near Merabing, the resi- dence of Sikonyella, the principal rival and old enemy of Moshesh. We endeavoured to obtain an intei'view with him, but were informed he had lately purchased a wagon and had gone some little distance to see the oxen yoked in and tried. After waiting till we thought it use- less to wait longer, Ave left; rode forward for about an hour and a half, when we breakfasted with Mr. Prynne, an English farmer, then residing there, after which Mr. Daumas returned to Mokuatling ; and I, having taken my seat on my wagon, set out for " Harrismith," a town newly planned, and so called in honour of his Excellency. I had now to traverse a piece of country scarcely at all occupied. . A strange feeling of solitariness and desolate- ness pervades the mind of a traveller under such circum- stances, especially of one long familiar with crowded towns aud cities. Yet these regions have been occupied, and the population has been considerable. But war, fierce, deadly war, among hostile aboriginal tribes, has converted peace- ful villages into solitudes, and drenched cultivated lands with tears and blood, Avhich, instead of fertilizing, have left them dreary desert wastes. Ere long, however, these deserts will surely be again le-peopled, and " the earth shall yield her increase." The main difficulties seem to exist in the want of labour, and the restless character of the native tribes in the vicinity. Unless labour can be obtained, the best faiTns and the most productive soil must remain of small value ; and if life and property be exposed to danger, from the inroads and violence of prowling marauders, none but desperate men can venture to settle there. The only remedy, I apprehend is, to treat the natives irith justice and benevolence ; they will then become peace- ful neighbours and industrious labourers, just as already 342 eland's river. thousands of Zoolus, Kaffirs, Fingoes and Basutos have become. We soon reached Liehenberg's flat, and then the resi- dence of a man of colour, well known m these parts by the name of " Oud Izak" — old Isaac. He gave us infoiTna- tion as to our course ; and assured us that the roads were "^ood, and, as no rain had fallen, the rivers, and streams would be crossed without difficulty. We found no wood, but abundance of grass — and the cattle enjoyed it. There are neither wild animals nor game. It is a deserted countiy, where neither man, nor bird, nor beast, can be found. As we were not fortunate enough to find the best point for crossing one of the streams of the Wilge, our wagon stuck fast on ascending the opposite bank, and it occupied us some time in digging away the earth, so as to break the ascent, and in unloading the hinder part of the wagon. Immediately this was done, we saw three wagons passing a few yards higher up, on our right hand, and which crossed the stream with perfect ease, and we wished we had done the same. But this was the only disaster of the kind we had yet encountered. It occasioned just delay enough to prevent our reaching " Harrismith" that even- ing. The roads were much worse from the rains that had fallen, and the gi'ound extremely slipper}' for the oxen. It made me often think of the value of made roads, bridges, and railways — though, when these will all be found in this part of Africa, it is difficult to predict, judging from the present rate of progi-ess. We reached the Eland's Eiver at midday, and found it a noble stream, with its fine, clear, pellucid waters, — now rolling beautifully along, and smiling in their course, as if almost conscious of their dignity and worth, and now dashing over some rocky gi'ound and heaps of pebbles — basalt, agates, and amygdaloid — emitting sounds that were music to an African traveller, and might tempt him to linger and stray on its banks. Just a spot to in^'ite the Muses — only, it is said to be infested with lions 1 IRISH BRICK-MAKER. 043 We continued our course along the front of the noble mountam called Tafelberg, " Table Mountain," still won- dering that we did not come in sight of " Harrismith." At length, having reached the eastern side of the moun- tain, I halted, and determined to leave the wagon and go in search of this new-born town — a future city in our vast empire. Taking my attendant, Andries, with me, we pro ceeded to an elevation, where I felt sure it must come into view. We were disappointed. Not a spire, nor chimney, nor hut could be seen, and so we walked on towards another elevation. On our way, we came to an emigrant settler, busily emj^loyed in brick-making, and from him I learnt, that we had taken the left hand road instead of the right, after we had passed the last stream. We were about a mile from the spot marked out as the town ; but no houses are built, nor are any persons residing there, so I did not deem it worth while to proceed further in that direction. We returned to the wagon. It took us three hours to walk there and back. The man we had met was from Armagh, and, feeling sure that there would, ere long, be some houses wanted to make it a town, he was in'epar- ing a stock of bricks beforehand, assisted by half a dozen Kaffirs at work, and skipping about under his instruction. The plan of the town was laid out by J\Ir. ]\Iotfat, jun. The buildings amount to considerably above 200, so that it was expected there would shortly be a population of 1000. The streets are all of good width. Lots are ap- pointed for a church and prison, court-house and read- ing-room. Upwards of 100 of the lots will have a sup- ply of water on the pi-emises ; the rest iu-e called dry erven. Several plots were already engaged, and parties were immediately expected to open stores. There seems an abundant supply of water. A fine stream is carried down to the town by a water-course, already constructed. This runs, I understand, a distance of three miles. The Wilge Kiver runs at no great distance, by two sides of tlie town. 344 CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. The whole country has the appearance of behig ex- tremely fertile. Wood, however, is wanting, and this will 1)6 a disadvantage to the town. It Avill make buildings and fuel expensive. The general appearance of the country' is also changed. The hills, excepting Tafelberg and Nelson's Kop, are much lower than those in the part of the colony which I had left ; they are rounded at the summit, and not hori- zontal. But life is everywhere absent. We did not meet a human being for a whole day together, nor an ox, nor any animal. It is said, however, lions are yet in the neighbourhood. One of them was shot not long since, whose skin I saw used as an i;nder blanket, on the bed- stead of the Irish brick-maker ; and, judging from the enormous size of the skin and mane, a fine, noble fellow he must have been. He had just before destroyed a valua- ble horse, belonging to a Dutch farmer. The farmer, it seems, sent his man one morning to fetch home the horse from grazing. The man returned, and said, tlie horse was lying on the ground, and something by the side of it. •' Then," said the farmer, " I know what that something is ;" and immediately loaded his gnn, mounted a trvisty steed, and rode to the spot, when he succeeded in lodging three balls in the monster's side ; and the deatli of the lion was the farmer's recompense for the loss of his horse, for which he had paid £*33. He would, I believe, have preferred keeping his horse, and sacrificed willingly the gratification and the glory of killing the lion. It appeared to me, that a large number of valuable farms might be formed here, and many families obtain a comfortable subsistence. It was now a week since I left Imparani. I must have travelled 130 miles, and I had seen but one farm, or patch of cultivated land, and not a single dwelling-house ; yet the land seemed to be exceed- ingly rich and fertile, well-adapted for grazing. It is true the horse- sickness prevails here in the lower gi-ounds, but on " Table Mountain"' plateau, there is an excellent supply —- * --s5^if.s:»v^ TATKLBEEG, A SANDSTONE HILL IN THK ORANGE EIVEE SOVKREIGNIT. ^^^ SANDSTONE tlll.IJS IN THK ORANGE RIVKK SOVEllEIGNTY. DIFFICULTIES OF TRAVELLING. 315 of pasturage, and a small lake, that affords an abundant supply of water. The farmer, who formei'ly lived where I met with the brick-maker, used to take charge of horses during the time of sickness, and received so much per month for the care of them. They were located on the summit of this mountain. The air is so salubrious that none of them died. This horse-sickness is often exceed- ingly fatal. It is much dreaded by farmers, both in the colony and many places beyond it. It probably arises from some miasma in the low grounds, as in a higher atmosphere the animals are preserved in health. We had not proceeded far, before our wagon got into a somewhat deep and troublesome sort of quagmire, where our hinder wheel got iixed half-way up. We had to dig away earth in front of each wheel, and to make a petty embankment, to keep tlie water out that came slowly along from the neighbouring hills, and formed just here a deeper pool than we found convenient. We then lifted nearly all our goods out of the wagon, and by that means lightened our cargo ; so we got safely up on the bank, but it detained us four hours. Then we outspanned again, and took our midday refreshments. We had not gone much more than an hour forward, when we met with a second delay. We came to a stream where the bottom seemed too soft and unsound to admit our attempting to cross it. We proceeded a little higher, but there found our oxen and wagon entangled in the labyrinth of a vlei or bottom — a low swampy ground, impassable in the rainy season ; and now impassable, though perfectly dry and hard, from the nature of the ground. The water had been absorbed in narrow cuts or channels, so that, over a vast extent of the field, on each side of the central water- course, there are innumerable elevations and depressions. At about every two yards' distance is a new gutter or dry ditch, into which the oxen kept plunging, above their knees, and would then go no further. The wagon also got jaiximed in. The animals became frightened, and would 3-46 FIRST SIGHT OF NAT.AX. not stir. So, having carefully examined the ground for a considerable distance, and finding it all of the same character, nothing remained for us but to try and get back to the path we had left. We put our oxen to the hind part of the wagon, emptied it of nearly all its con- tents, and presently got back to the said path. It was already some time after sunset, and there we remained for the night. Next morning we found a part of the water-course ap- parently less difficult to pass than in other places, but still requiring some preparation and arrangement, or our wagon would sink deep into the mire. We threw in some dry earth, cut turfs, and laid them on. Stones there were none at hand. I then advised going to a neighbouring kloof in the mountain, where we saw there was wood. I thought we might cut some stout pieces, which we might place on the turfs, and over which the wagon might ride. Off we set, with all the tools we could command, — a saw, a hatchet, a hammer, and a chisel. I selected my tree, and hammered my chisel pretty deeply into it, while Andries and Adam, the two men with me, cut down two other young trees ; the saw finished mine, and we suc- ceeded, at length, in getting our road prepared. Our wagon crossed safely, our goods were carried over, and the wagon re-loaded. It Avas not long before a most extensive and magnificent view burst on our sight. We had not only reached the summit of Drakensberg, but had travelled to its eastern declivity, from whence we saw, to an amazing distance, the Natal side of the country. I could not help exclaiming to our people, as I first gazed on it, " Een andere wereld ! " — Another world ! for such it really seemed, from the magnitude of the landscape, and its extremely different character from all that we had seen for some months past. We locked our wagon wheel and began to descend, and this step was like a new and not unwelcome intimation that we were actually on our way home and getting nearer to it. We could, of course, see neither tlie ocean or Port PJCHNESS OF THE SOIL. 34 T Natal ; we were too distant yet — too many miles inland, and too many ranges of hills between us and the coast. Nor could we see Pieter Mauritzburg, but we knew that if all were well, we were within five days' moderate journey of it. We then soon reached the point Avhere the old path over the Drakenberg commences, and which leads to " Bezuidenhoud's Path." This I was advised not to take, though, seemingly, much the nearest to Pieter Mauritzburg. The descent is steep, difficult, and dangerous, especially, after the roads had become slippery by rains. We took, therefore, the road on our left, Avhich leads to " Harri- smith." We passed three or four farms belonging to colonists, all of them, I believe, Dutch, where the farmers were building their houses, living, in the meantime, in tlieir wagons. They have selected excellent situations. The land is rich, — there is an ample supply of wood for building and for fuel, and they are within reach of good streams of water. The soil seems to consist almost entirely of disintegrated basalt, with a modei'ate portion of vegetable mould on the surface. The farmers speak well of its fertility. It reminded me of the soil of Mauritius, and appears to be of the same quality ; yet I fancy it is too cold here in winter to permit the growth of sugar. The trees consist of the mimosa. They were just then in full blossom, rich in api:)earance and deliciously fragrant. The farmers are multii^lying their cattle rapidly. The whole countiy here seems well adapted for pasturage. I should think that in a few years' time there will be a large popula- tion settled here. We soon came to a number of huts belonging to Zoolu Kaffirs. Some of the men we saw had the " circle" on their heads, according to Zoolu fashion. The whole of the hair is cut off, and a circle, made of some small reeds, is formed on the scalp, and actualhj stitclicd into it. It is about half or three-fourths of an inch thick. It looks like a small coil of rope, but is quite black and close-grained. We passed ten or twelve kraals or villages. 848 SOUTH AFRICAN NIAGARA. A few of the men occasionally visited our wagon. They came veiy harmlessly. The only weapons with them were sweet canes, which they seem to enjoy eating. At the same time, I confess I liked to use a little caution. They are cunning fellows, and if not watched might have inconve- nienced us by petty thefts. The only clothing they wore consisted of a few oiTiamental strips of skin hanging round the loins. Some women and children came out of some of the villages to look at us as we passed. The women wore rather more di'ess, and, I presume, were married. All this country was, till lately, in the hands of natives, but became a land of cannibals. We passed many deserted villages as we went along. These were probably the sites of the aboriginal inhabitants, who were destroyed by the tyrants Chaka, Dingaan, and others, or who were driven to the caverns and the mountains in destitution and despair. We next came to the Omgeni River, Avhich falls into the sea just above Port Natal. It is low and easily fordable. There is a splendid cascade immediately below the Drift, the finest, by far, of all I had seen or heard of in South Africa. The whole volume of the river falls at once, bodily, over the perpendicular precipice. The direct depth of the chute, from the bed of the river where it falls, to the stream through the valley into which it falls, is 273 feet. This depth was given me as having been taken, professionally, by an officer. It is said that the depth of the water at the spot where the cascade falls, is 50 feet, but which I imagine is a mere guess. The effect of the whole is certainly fine, and from some situations it must be still more sublime tlian from the spot where I saw it. I descended a short distance, and ventured, though with some dizzy sensations and a fear of becoming giddy, to look over the yaAvning precipice on which I stood. The geological situation of the locality is striking, and gi-eatly aids the efiect of the cascade. It is sandstone, yellowish in colour, and is as if an immense mass of rock had subsided suddenly, and to the depth of some 300 feet, commencing from the part of CAoCAbii OK THE OMGtNE 1-UVH,H„ IIATAI.. A FINE CASCADE. 349 the river where the water falls over, leaving an immense oblong void or chasm, bounded on one side by the fall, and on two sides by perpendicular rock, from which the central portion had subsided. The remaining side or front is open to the valley, into which the water then runs, and where it glides a short distance in a serpentine manner, and is pre- sently hid from view by passing round the hill. The whole is well worthy the efforts of the pencil of a good artist. I tried to make a sketch of it, from which the annexed litho- graph has been prepared. It is said, the best spot from which to obtain a good view of the cascade is from a de- clivity on the opposite bank. I took my position on a part of the flat sandstone forming a portion of the precipitous side of the chasm. I did not venture to stand close, and look over the dreadful void. I laid down, stretched myself out, and then, gi'asping a jutting piece of the rock, ventured to peep over till I could see the whole fall, and the spot where it reached the boiling current beneath. On our way towards Pieter Mauritzburgwe crossed several fine streams that run into the Litoukela or Tugela, which falls into the sea about fifty miles N.E. of Natal. These gave me the impression that all this part of the Natal country was well watered ; and many a spot I passed ap- l^eared extremely rich and fertile. The Mooi is one of these fine streams. It is wide and rapid, but we had no difficulty in fording it ; but why it is called " The Beau- tiful," I do not know. It is not more attractive than many other streams which I had passed. It winds through an extensive valley, and falls into the Litoukela. We then reached within about three or four miles of the town, just about sunset, and remained there till next morn- ing, at a locality called by the very elegant and domestic name of " Kettle Fountain." The next morning was Sunday. I reached the town early, called on some old friends, passed the day with them in public worship and their family circles, and felt thank- ful to have reached this additional milestone on my jour- 350 PIETEE IIAUPJTZBUEG. nev, and to be able to pass a day or two agreeably and usefully in this metropolis of our colony of Natal. The town is well situated and admirably supplied with water. Streams or water-courses are conveyed through all the streets, and many trees, chiefly syringas and willows, are planted by the houses. There are 400 building lots in the to-\^Ti ; many are still unoccupied, but there are already about 1200 European or colonial inhabitants. The sers'ants are principally Zoolus. There are about 1 00,000 Kaffir Zoolus within the colony of Natal, who are under British protection and authority, but retaining their own usages and having their own jurisdiction among themselves. ]Many of these are people who have come over from Panda, the Zoolu chief, and voluntarily placed themselves under the British Government. It seems that this large number of aboriginal natives consists of the fragments of many tribes, and their dialects vaiy exceed- ingly from one another. The tribes themselves were rooted out and destroyed during the devastating wars of several past years, under Chaka, Dingaan, and others. Panda himself is cniel, tyrannical, and unpopular ; his people are glad to detach themselves from him, as often as they can do so with safety. He is reported to have com- mitted lately, and indeed daily, many atrocities among his people. His power is consequently waning, and he is adopting the worst plan to restore it. The natives noAv settling in the British territory are required to pay an annual sum, of a small amount, on each hut. It has amounted, in the aggregate, to £10,000, and it is applied towards the payment of the civil expenses of the colony. Emigrants, I was informed, succeed best who come out free and unshackled, having no connexion with any government plans for disposing of the soil, or the arrange- ments of any companies for that purpose. Ai'tisans succeed well at once. Farmers, or parties disposed to farm, having a capital of about £400 or £500, succeed well. Large grazing farms may be obtained on easy EMIGRANTS. 35 J terms, say Is. or Is. Qd. per acre ; that is to say, for a farm of 2000 or 2500 morgan— 4000 or 5000 acres— from £200 to d£350, and smaller farms in proportion. There are said to be certain parties who obtain land on these terras, and then in London make offers of land at the easy rate of 4s. or 5s. per acre, securing to themselves a considerable profit, with little trouble, but placing the purchasers in embarrassment and difficulty on their arrival. The latter have perhaps already expended their capital, and are obliged to take the shares or allotments of land sold to them in England by the parties in question, and do the best they can with them, of however little real value ; whereas, if they came unfettered to the spot, and with the same amount of capital already expended, they could choose for themselves with much greater advantage, and even pay a far less price for the farm. The diffi- culty certainly is, that the allotments in Natal are large, and such as private persons coming out as emigrants, without considerable property, could not purchase. But then it does not seem of much advantage that such persons should purchase land. They cannot stock it, as tliey have not capital at command. Of course they have not the means of purchasing cattle and a wagon, and also of building a house, and supporting themselves, till they get some crops on sale. Those persons succeed best, who come out, willing to do anything they can towards their own support, and who are content to rise beyond their present condition, just as soon as fair opportunities offer of doing so, and not before. Those who come proudly or perti- naciously unwilling to ivork, except in some i:)articular direction, and who demand high wages for all they do, or scarcely expect to be obliged to work at all, cannot rise out of poverty and difficulty. All who come willing to work, and resolved to be industrious, sober, and economi- cal, fail not in obtaining competency and comf(jrt. On quitting Pietcr Mauritzburg I pi'oceeded towards Inda- leni, a Mission station occupied by the Eev. Mr. Alison, of 852 IXDALENI STATION. the Wesleyan Society. After travelling a few hours we were overtaken by a heavy mist or fog (reminding one of dear old England), and which compelled us to pitch our tent, that is, to remain in our wagon, and await the next morn- ing. We then crossed two or three small streams, and came to the Ilovo, which runs near Indaleni. This is a troublesome stream to cross. A " comfortable" bridge is in course of building, but the benefit of Avhich did not fall to my lot. I could only see it in the incipient state, and think of the advantages which posterity might enjoy. My oxen were not able to extricate my wagon, which had got fast on attempting to cross the stream. Mr. Alison, to whom we sent forward, kindly came to my relief, and with his fresh and vigorous team, soon put matters straight. I accompanied him in his wagon, and soon reached his residence, where I met with a most kind and hospitable reception. Mr. and Mrs. Alison have been eighteen years in the IMission field, in connexion with the Wesleyan Society, and are familiar with the Hottentot, Griqua and Bechuana Missions, as well as those of the Baharutse, Zoolus and Basutos. Mr. A. was formerly Missionary with Sikonyella, of whom he has not a high opinion, and of whose evil proceedings he was for a long time an eye- witness. He was also stationed among the Amasuazzi, otherwise called Baraputze, and was forced to remove from them by the jealousy of the diiferent tribes, the conse- quent civil wai's that raged, the murders of their people, the famines that ensued, and the imminent danger to which his own life and that of Mrs. Alison were constantly exposed. At present they are forming an important Missionary station here, on property held by sufferance from the Government. Yery many of the natives from the Ama- suazzi have followed him from their o'svn country, and gladly settled down with him in this new location, mider the instruction of the Missionary and the protection of the British Government. He has about 1200 persons alto- INDALENI STATION. 353 gether under his care : upwards of 100 are communicants. About forty of them can read the New Testament well, and many others tolerably. His plan is to have a number both of young men and women under domestic and special training ; they live under his roof, and form, in fact, an Institution. At present their number is thirty-six. His direct aim is not to train them as native teachers, but to become intelligent and orderly members of the commu- nity ; and in this respect the plan succeeds admirably. Beyond this, however, many of them, being constantly under careful and judicious religious training, are brought to an acquaintance with Divine truth, and have given very pleasing evidences of conversion to God. I met there, during my visit, seven of the natives, who ai"e leading members of the church, and actively employed in visiting the villages, where many of these jDeople are located. There are thirteen villages thus visited. I had, through Mr. A., a long and interesting conversation with them. They replied with much intelligence to my ques- tions, and then asked me several sensible questions about Madagascar, of which they had heard from their Missionary. They then gave me some details of their personal history. Many of the events of their lives are full of interest, — I might say, of tragical interest, — for in most instances they have been exposed to the fury of war and murder, and only preserved by some remarkable interpositions of Providence in their favour. They have fled some four or five hundred miles from their native country to find safety and a home under the Aving and friendship of the Missionary. Next morning, a public service was held. It was a re- freshing and delightful sight ; there must have been from 150 to 200 present, including a few children. All were decently attired in European clothing, with very few exceptions ; and those exceptions consisted of persons who bad but just arrived on the establishment, who came liter- ally with nothing, but waited to be employed, that they might earn some wages, and obtain food and clothing. I A A 354 CIVILIZATION. have never addressed a congregation of more attentive hearers. At the close of the service, Mr. A. called those together who are now under his immediate and domestic training. There were about twenty-four young men, and twelve young women. About thirty-six are as many as the premises admit at a time. About twenty or thirty of the number — some ten or fifteen couples — usually settle in life every year, on the station ; and hence a large por- tion of the congregation consists of those who have been trained and instructed by the Missionary. Mrs. A. teaches the women, very many of whom can now make their own dresses and their husbands' shirts, trousers, &c., besides doing a great deal of needlework which is afterwards sold for the support of the In- stitution. The people are building houses for them- selves as fast as they can obtain the means of doing so. These are square houses, with two rooms, a chimney, and a fire-place each. They have also a glass Avindow. 1 went into one of them lately, built by a young man, and found its sitting and bed-rooms, shelves, chairs, bedsteads, a few books, small looking-glass, cups, &c., — everything having the appearance of comfort and comparative respectability. A wonderful improvement all this, in a short time, and a delightful advance in civilization ! All this comes in the place of oppression and suffering, terror, w^ar, and naked- ness, famine and profound ignorance. I have a deep per- suasion that such an Institution is every way deserving of s}Tnpathy and support, and left the spot with the full impression that the excellent Missionaries themselves, Mr. and Mrs. A. were worthy of most cordial commendation and encouragement. The people seem exceedingly attached to them, and well they may be, for they find in them a father and a mother, instructors, guides, and friends. Leaving Indaleni, my intention was to visit the Nor- wegian Missionary station, under the care of Dr. Schroeder, but I did not succeed in finding it. Guides accompanied us pai-t of the way, when, fearing to have to return alone STREAMS IMPASSABLE. 355 from a greater distance, and assuring us that our path was straight and could not be mistaken, they left us and went back to the station. We presently came to a low, swampy place, having a deep stream running through the middle of it, far too deep to admit the passage of our wagon, and after trying in vain to find a ford, we deemed it expedient to return on our path, and did so for many miles, and at length reached the road, along which we had come from Petermaritzburg, in our way to Indaleni. We continued along this road to Avithin about seven or eight miles of the town, and readied the Omlazi, at the ford where I had parted with Mr. Bu- chanan and Mr. Ainstie three days previously, on my way to Indaleni. But here was a great change in the state of the river. Theti we had no difficulty in crossing ; nov.' it was impassable. The late heavy rains had made it a for- midable torrent, that would have carried away oxen, wagon, and all, had we attempted to pass. A farmer from Scot- land, residing on the spot, advised me to wait till morning, when, if no new heavy rains fell, I should be able to ford the stream higher up. I accordingly remained for the night. The next morning proved remarkably fine ; scarcely any rain had fallen during the night, and the stream had fallen more than four feet. About 10 o'clock, to my great sur- prise, Mr. Alison arrived with two of his people. They had felt anxious as to my position. He guessed I should be here ; but fearing lest I might have attempted to cross the stream and met with any accident, he had kindly rode forward to make inquiry. As the water was now suffi- ciently low to justify the attempt to cross, and might possibly so increase as to detain me long, if rain should again fall, I set out and reached the proper part of the stream for fording, wliere we got over without any serious difficulty ; and it was a welcome sound when, having got over, I heard Mr. Alison exclaim, " Now you have passed your last difficulty," meaning, tliat I had no further streams to interrupt me on my way to Port Natal. 356 PRICE OF LAND. Disappointed in not being able to find the Norwegian station, we continued travelling for about five hours, meeting with no obstruction ; and then, seeing cattle, horses, and a house at a little distance, we made towards the spot, hoping it might be the place of which we were in search. However, it proved to be the residence of a Dutch farmer, from whom I learnt that Dr. Schroeder's station was at a great distance ; that we were fairly in the path that led to the high road for Natal ; that the Port was still two long days' journey distant; that we had yet to cross the "Omlazi" twice before reaching there; but that we should find the American Mission station of Dr. Adams on our way. We proceeded on our route till sunset, and placed ourselves by the roadside for the night. It was a dreary and uninviting country through which we were now pass- ing. The land looked poor, and wood was scarce. We passed the spot which is called " Uysdoorn," the "thorns, or thorn-bush of Uys," the name of a Dutch farmer. This I imderstood was a piece of land that had been selling in England at 5s. per acre! — a further proof, as it appeared to me, and many others, that emigrants would do best not to make any purchases or come under obligations in Eng- land, but to carry their money with them, and to choose and act for themselves on the spot. I found that many who had lately come out to this colony contemplated re- turning to England without delay, disappointed and dis- gusted with all they have met with. They must have raised their expectations too high, and have shrunk too soon from inconvenience and difficulties. A remark which I have heard made in reference to er;iigi'ants, is, I think, just — that " there are few who, within the first few months of their residence, do not wish to return ; and but ver}' few who do wish it, or who would be willing to do it, after a three years' residence." Continuing my journey towards Port Natal, I met Dr. Adams, the American Missionary, when about two hours' distance from his residence. He and Mrs. Adams had left BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY. 357 home on account of indisi^osition. They both appeared to me exceedingly unwell, and requiring a change. They were now on their way towards Petermaritzburg, and were intending to proceed towards the Drakenberg, but which they did not contemplate crossing. I was sorry to lose the opportunity of passing a few hours in their society, and ascertaining from them, on the spot, the state and prospects of the American Missions. However, I hoped to be able to see Mr. Lindsey, who resides within a few hours' ride of the Bay, and Mr. Wylder, who is still nearer. Dr. Adams has removed to this station witliin the last three years, from the banks of the Umlazi, and his station still retains the same name. We passed his settlement in the course of the afternoon. It has a pleasing and cheerful appearance. I stopped and conversed with the assistant teacher, who liad been with him fourteen years, from the commencement of the Mis- sions, and with another native, both of whom understood English. The former spoke it with a good deal of fluency. They were both natives of the Zoolu country. And now again, much of the country through which we were passing was exceedingly beautiful. Having reached the summit of a lofty eminence, a scene of surpassing gi'andeur and magnificence burst at once on our view, including the whole country between us and the sea, the dim and hazy outline of which we could catch, at a dis- tance of twenty-five to thirty miles. The country, stretch- ing far away to the north and south, appears to be all of the same character, and a good deal resembling that of Kaffirland, to which indeed that in the south is contiguous. The elevation of the country here may be about 1000 feet above the level of the sea. The hills are gentle, soft, rounded, and well wooded, always covered with grass, and occasionally with wood, to the summits. It seems just the country to attract and satisfy emigrants. The soil also is good, the grass is excellent, and all the materials for build- ing are here. The streams are pretty numerous ; and as 358 d'urban. the grass is always gi-een, as I was informed, the rains must be abundant. Here would seem to be room for many hundreds of farms; but how far this part of the Natal district is actually engaged and occupied, I cannot say. After a long and fatiguing day's ride, I reached Port Natal in the evening. Owing to heavy rains the streams were all full, and the roads extremely heavy, and especially as we drew near the town of D 'Urban. It is a long and tedious ride down by the side of the bay. Then having found a quiet and shady nook, at the entrance of the tovvTi, and having unyoked the oxen, and taken a little refresh- ment, I set out to find Mr. Holden, the Wesleyan minister. I succeeded in doing so, and accompanied him to chapel in the evening, where he delivered a solid, useful, and practical discourse. My intention was to take a night's rest at the hotel (Macdonald's), near his house. However, the house Avas full, and I could get no accommodation, neither could I find my way back to the wagon ; so, fa- tigued with wandering about, I returned to Mr. Holden 's, where I remained for the night, thankful to find the advan- tages of civilized life, and of Christian friendship. I ascertained there was a vessel in the bay, " ready for sea," the Hannah, and she had been so for three w^eeks, but detained all that time, waiting for sufficient water to cross the bar. Three or four vessels were waiting outside, ready to come in, but could not, for the same reason. It seemed that, at present, only six feet of water could be found, even at high tide; and as even small vessels draw more than that, all are detained. This was regarded as an un- usual circumstance, and accounted for by the long pre- valence of strong southerly winds, and the absence of rains. In consequence of the former, an immense quantity of sand is thrown up on the bar ; and in consequence of the latter, the quantity of water carried down from the land into the bay, had been insufficient to carry off this large accumulation. Spring tides wovild occur the next week, and it was confidently hoped there would be suffi- PANDA, ZOOLU CHIEF. 359 cient water in the bay to carry the vessels over it, both for those within and those without, and I accordingly took my passage on board the Hannah for Table Bay. During my stay at D 'Urban I had the pleasure of re- maining under the hospitable and friendly roof of Mr. and Mrs. Holden, where I met Dr. Schroeder, and also Mr. L. Grout, the latter of the American Missionary Society, whose station is about thirty miles distant, but which I did not visit, partly because I was daily expecting the Hannah to sail, and partly because my oxen were too fatigued with their long journey to bear any further burden at present. The American Society, I found, had twelve Missionaries labouring among the Zoolus, all within the Natal colony. Panda, the Zoolu chief, will not admit a Missionary within his own territory. He is said to be actuated by a jealous fear of losing his influence among his own people in pro- portion as Europeans, under any circumstances, obtain such influence. There is no doubt his power would be under- mined, just as his people become enlightened and Christian, and just as all arbitrary and despotic Governments must be modified as subjects become intelligent: he would not be able to maintain the same despotic, cruel, and unreasoning authority which he now exercises. The revolting customs of the country would be abandoned, and the reign of terror would cease. Were he also to become a Christian the difficulty would vanish. The character of his government would be changed. Mildness, reason, and mercy would become its elements, instead of its present ferocity and cruelty. And then he might retain his influence and use the whole of it for good. However, that docs not seem to be the plan of Providence, and the change in the condition of his people is being brought about by another process. His cruelties are detaching them from him, and thereby his power is weakened. Those who leave him come over to the British territory, and many of them witliin the reach of Christian influence, especially in connexion with the Missionary Institutions. It may not be long before the 360 ZOOLUS IN NATAL. British Government may be in a position, if necessary, to dictate terms to Panda himself. He will sink to an insig- nificant and petty chieftain, without ability to destroy his people as he is now doing. Then, by the dissolution of his authority and power, a way may be opened for the advancement of his people in knowledge, civilization, and Christianity. I found about 400 or 500 persons, European and colo- nists, resident at D 'Urban. The exact number of Zoolus in their service was not known. They are numerous and willing to work. Their wages is 5s. per niontb, with pro- visions, which may amount to about 5s. more. The men only come in to work. Scarcely any of their women do, and many of the men only work till they have obtained enough to enable them to purchase an ox or a cow, and therewith to purchase a wife ! They are said to be exceedingly trust- worthy. They are often sent with money to a great dis- tance, and are faithful to the trust committed to them. Still it is an anomalous state of things. Here are 100,000 of them living within the British territory of Natal, yet without chief or ruler of their own. If any cases of offence or dispute arise, they are brought for the most part under the notice of Mr. Shepstone, Diplomatic Agent for these tribes, and are settled by him. As ah'eady I'emai'ked, they retain their own customs, but are not allowed to put any persons to death for witchcraft, as formerly, among them- selves, nor, indeed, for any offence ; but they have not been instructed to consider themselves as wholly under British law. They are " native foreigners," and have no perma- nent right given them in the soil. They have no lands which they can properly call their own, nor does it appear to be the intention of the Government that they should have any. The present capitation tax which they pay is simply a recognition of ihe British sovereignty over the country in which they are permitted to dwell. They are not the aborigines of this territory. They, the aborigines, have perished. The present tribes are simply occupants, TOWN OF d'ueban, 361 and cannot claim to be here without some pajTiient in sup- port of the Government whose protection they enjoy. They are located by the Government, and on these loca- tions they cultivate lands and build their native huts. Very few of them would build any other or better kind of habitation, whatever security they might have in the soil. They are not, therefoi'e, put into a worse condition by the j^resent state of the tenure on which they are sufi'ered to reside in the territory. The truth is, till they become in some degree Christians, they adopt none of the customs and habits of civilized life. They prefer their own. To put on any European dress is an indication of a change of mind, involving the abandonment of heathenism ; and this involves so much, that they will not hastily do it — especially the renunciation of polygamy. D 'Urban, the rising town of Port Natal, is laid out for 4.50 allotments, and if each of those had a household of five persons it would give a population of upwards of 2000, besides the floating population of Zoolu servants. Some few of the houses are good and substantial. Several others are in course of erection, but for the most part they are very fragile and temporary. Many scores of these have been put up within the last three or four months. The streets are all laid out on a given plan, and all the houses are built in conformit}' with the plan ; yet scarcely any- thing of uniformity appears as yet. Only the main line can be seen. The new Wesleyan Chapel and the Govern- ment School were the only good buildings in the town. Here are many extensive stores, which are comparatively well supplied. A large amount of business is carried on, and some property has been already realized. A few par- ties are said to have made fortunes. This is not the seat of Government for the district. It is simply the senport: Pietermauritzburg is the metropolis. The main difficulty in the way of the prosperity of this young colony ap|)ears to be tlie bar already spoken of. IJut efforts are being made to obviate this difficulty. The main thing to be 362 THE " BAR " AT PORT XATAL. accomplished is to secure a narrow outlet from the interior hay into the sea, hy which means the bar or sand-bank would be sufficiently washed down and kept down to allow vessels to pass out. At present the sea comes in and spreads over a bay of about ten miles circumference, and in going out spreads over an immense piece of sand before going into the ocean itself. There is, however, a project- ing point or promontorj^ opposite to the " Bluff;" and to defend that point from being washed away and to cai'iy it out somewhat further and create a bank there, with bushes, stones, &c., filled up with sand, are the works contem- plated. I accompanied Mr. Holden to visit Mr. Wylder of the American Society, a few miles distance, and who has charge of the printing department of that Mission, and a very effective and well-conducted department it appeared to be. The brethren of that Mission were directing their attention to the subject of an uniform orthography in the native languages of this part of South Africa, a subject on which I was glad to find them occupied, as the Rev. Mr. Venn and other friends of the Church Missionary Society in England had been with especial reference to the languages of West- ern Africa. We passed on our way through some lovely country and most productive soil. Mr. Holden held a sen'ice at a small Kaffir village, in the open air, at which about forty persons were present. Mr. Holden spoke in Dutch, and it was fluently translated into the Zoolu by a native interpreter. A class meeting was afterwards held. About twelve of those present are in full communion. Some of the women present, had on the first European dresses they had ever worn. Most present were decently and comfortably clad. A few men were there, still heathens, and retaining their heathen customs as to dress. It was altogether an inter- resting and encouraging seiwice. One kind-hearted woman as soon as she heard we were coming prepared a Kafiir meal for us — a pot of sour milk, some Kafl&r corn bread, NEW GERMANY. 363 and some Kaffir tea. The milk had not long been taken from the cow, was added to a small quantity that was left in the bag used for the purpose, and exposed a short time to the sun. It thus becomes fit for immediate use, and is agreeable and refreshing. The bread was fresh, crisp, and good : we broke it in small pieces, and ate it mixed with the milk. The tea is made from a native root, and is by no means without a pleasant flavour : it forms a very good substitute for our China teas, on such an occasion. Mr. Holden and myself rode over to see the new station formed by German emigrants, and called " New Germany." It is the cotton-growing establishment introduced by Messrs. Young and Co. It is about ten miles from D 'Urban. Our road to it lay between Berea woods. These are said to be still infested with elephants, so that no person likes to venture after sunset through the path, nor will even the " elephant hunters" enter the jimgle, it is so extremely dense. There is no open space in which the elephant could be seen at a distance. If found, the hunters would come on them suddenly ; and as taking them by surprise is dangerous, unless there is room for escape, the pursuit is too hazardous in the present state of the forest. Having passed through the forest, the scenery becomes not only beautiful but enchanting. From some elevated points the view is very extensive. We passed some fine cotton fields connected with the German station, They appeared to me to be yielding a large crop. Many persons were employed picking the cotton, but very many more, it struck me, ought to have been r/ettinr/ it in at once, while ripe and ready, lest rains should set in and spoil it. We found the Missionary at home, and spent a few hours with him ; he was some time since in Kaffirland, now British Kaffraria. The Mission is sustained in part by the Berlin Society, and in part by Messrs. Young. There wore thirty-five families in the settlement, consisting of about two hundred individuals. They were all poor on leaving Germany; but are now raised above any circum- 304 COTTON GROWING. stances of want or distress. Dr. Scholz has the secular management of the settlement. The land belongs to Messrs. Young. The emigrants, who are all Germans, have hitherto paid nothing for the laud. They have been encouraged to come out and settle down as colonists, and when they are thought to be sufficiently advanced, they will begin to make some payment. It is considered by some, that each family could already pay from £10 to £0,0 per annum. Thei'e are a small neat chapel and a school on the establishment. All the adults attend public worship. The Missionaiy enter- tains a confident persuasion that much good is being done both among the Germans and the Kaffirs who are under his care. So satisfied with their prospects were the Germans on the settlement, that they had sent home some of their number to represent it among their friends, and to en- courage them also to come out. There is ample room for an immense number, and especially if they can be sup- ported for the first year, and in part for the second also. By that time they may have brought land enough under cultivation for the support of their families, and in two years more they may be in circumstances of gi'eat comfort, and assist in raising produce, such as cotton, &c., for ex- portation. At length, after many delays, many attempts to get away, many anxieties and regrets, the Hannah got fairly out of the inner bay, though not without some risk even then of her being lost outside ; the passengers all embarked, we hoisted sail, and had the prospect of a good passage to Table Bay. I took leave of Natal, much giatified that I had been able to pay this new colony of Great Britain a visit. It has fallen into the hands of our country by a succession of events that would seem to indicate the necessity of our taking possession of it. Originally it belonged to the native Zoolus. Chaka gave up a large section of it, by sale, to Lieutenant Farewell and his party. That aiTangement finally dropped through. Cbaka was killed by Dingaan his successor, and he in turn by Panda. The Dutch emigrants OCCUPATION OF NATAL. 365 from the Cape colony got possession of the country, and were erecting it into an independent republic, witli no little hostile feeling towards Great Britain. They had much to complain of — their manifestos deserved the ear of Govern- ment ; but not finding the redress they claimed, they placed themselves in an unfortunate attitude of defiance, and were beaten. Such as chose to remain were allowed to do so, and fall under the authority and protection of Great Britain. Nearly all preferred to retire. They have gone far into the interior. Natal became an unoccupied country ; emigrants from Great Britain soon flocked there in large numbers, and now it is filling up, has its own local government, independent of the Cape, and promises to become a flourishing settlement. Most contradictory reports respecting it have been circu- lated, which it is not my business to reconcile and harmo- nise. I can state only what I saw and what I heard on the spot. I saw much beautiful land, rich soil, numerous streams, and extensive forests. I found the air salubrious and pleasant, and I witnessed the rising prospects of many families. I often said to myself as I passed through the colony, "Were I now proposing to emigrate, I would select Natal as the sphere of ray enterprise." I met parties from Mauritius, who had come to examine its capabilities for groicinrj sugar, and they pronounced it to be unsuitable : as the soil, they said, was not well adapted to it, and the labour to be obtained too difficult and uncertain. All this might be true, I thought, as compared with Mau- ritius ; and yet I am persuaded much sugar might be pro- duced there. As to cotton, the experiment has been made, and it is not a failure, and abundance of it may be raised. The obtaining of labour will much depend on the treatment the Zoolus receive from their white employers. Treat them kindly, and pay them fair wages, and there will be no great difficulty in procuring labour. CHAPTER XVI. MAUEITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. HETUKX TO CAPE TOWN INTERVIEW WITH THE GOVEKNOE GOTERXOR's DEFENCE INQUIRY DEMANDED MURDER EDUCATION ARRIVAL IN MAURITIUS DAVID RATSABAHOMBA CHAPEL IN PORT LOUIS SERVICES FORMER SLAVES AND INDIAN COOLIES MADAGASCAR MOKA, MISSION STATION MALAGASY DAVID JOHNS AXDRIANADO NOUVELLE DECOUVERTE PAOLY PLAIN WILHELMS NEW CHAPEL EXTINCT VOLCANO — MADAGASCAR LETTER FROM THE aUEEN TRADE WITH MADAGASCAR ORIGIN OF RECENT DISPUTE WITH MADAGASCAR A HUMILIATING EXHIBITION NATIVE CRt'ELTY SHIPS TO MADAGASCAR DR. TAVAL LOSS TO BRITISH GOVERN- MENT ROMAN CATHOLICS IN MAURITIUS — CHURCH OF ENGLAND OTHER DENOMINATIONS INFLUENZA. Aftkr a pleasant passage of eight days on board the Hannah, I reached Cape To\vii in April, 1850. The distance is about 800 miles. I purposed remaining there about a month, before proceeding to Mauritius, within which time I indulged the hope the Eev. W. Thompson would arrive from England, and enter on his pastoral duties at Union Chapel, and his ofl&ce as agent for our Society. During my stay, I had an inten-iew with his Ex- cellency two or three times. I waited on him, in the first instance, that I might bring personally under his notice the case of the Griquas and the Basutos, as already de- scribed in this volume. I found him rather more formal and resei'\'ed than usual ; which, however, could not in the least alter my views as to \he facts under review. He expressed his wish that I had communicated my INTERVIEW WITH THE GOVERNOR. 367 views to him, respecting any matters that might have oc- curred to me requiring observation. And I found, on asking the question, that he w^as alluding to a letter which I had written to Dr. Campbell, and which appeared in the Banner, and part of which had been extracted and com- mented upon in the Graham's Town Journal, which paper was then lying before his Excellency. He read to me the passage to which his attention was directed, and in which I had remarked that, " as like causes produce like effects, there was ground to apprehend that the present system would work out injurious results ;" the meaning of which, of course, was, that the existing system of coercion would bring about another Kaffir war. Our conversation took place in June (1850); the j^resent disastrous Kaffir war broke out in December of that year. I think I am entitled now, in June 1851, to ask whether my views, intimations, and suruiisings, were correct, or founded in error ? I had no hesitation in acknowledging the letter to be my communication. His Excellency thought, " with all due respect for me and my office, that these were matters on which I was not competent to form an opinion." I assured him, that as these remarks related to matters open to every one's observation, it required only common sense to judge of them, and we thought, though Missionaries, we possessed that common sense as well as others. I added, that what I had written referred to matters of fact, and on which I could speak from personal observation. I re- ferred to the dissatisfaction felt by the Border tribes, — Griquas and Basutos — and not to the case of tlie Kaffirs alone. I told him I had seen and conversed with the chief Moshesh, Adam Kok, and othe]-s ; that Moshesh had been deprived of a large portion of his territory, and the Griquas were forced to surrender theirs. He expressed " his sur- prise that Moslicsh should be dissatisfied. It was the first time he had heard of it." And as to Adam Kok, he, the Governor, "had been his best friend ; that, but for his inter- 368 INQUIRY WANTED. ference, the Boers, who emigrated from the colony, would have absorbed his country, and reduced him and his people to slavery, — a thing which it appeared to him they had aimed at, and he feared, in some cases, still aimed at." I explained to him, that while I thought the general measure of the " sovereignty " and the supremacy of British rule had been a blessing to the country and the native tribes, by preventing their mutual destruction, they were yet attended with much injustice towards individuals, and involved the sacrifice of many rights, which he himself would not have committed, had he taken more time in forming his decisions. He thanked me for having called and held this conver- sation with him. We shook hands and parted. How- ever, I thought it right to communicate my views to Earl Grey, Secretary of State for the Colonies ; my letters to his Lordship have already appeared in a former part of this volume. The great thing which I then believed and still believe to be essential, is — strict, impartial, and patient inquiry — inquiry from home, instituted by her Majesty at the recom- mendation of Parliament ; inquiiy conducted on the spot, and where the aggrieved parties might be fully heard in stating their ovph case. Such inquiry, I apprehend, should embrace all the facts relating to Kaffir affairs with the colony for the last seventeen years at least ; the causes of the failure of the " Glenelg" system — if a failure there were, as affirmed by some ; the expenses and management of the war of 1846-7, under Sir P. Maitland, Sk H. Pottinger, and Sir H. Smith ; the dissatisfaction existing among Kaffirs, Tambookies, Griquas, Basutos, and Hottentots ; and how individual cases of hardship may be rectified, so that the friendship of the native tribes may be secured, instead of their sullen hatred. Many things, also, in the " sovereignty," appeared to me to merit investigation, especially with the view of pre- venting the recurrence of similar proceedings, such as the MURDER OF A BAROLONG. 369 suppression of alleged cases of mm-der ; the mode of trial there for grave offences ; the use of commandoes ; the dis tribution of children and others for forced sei^vice, by British authorities, among the farmers ; and the treatment of the aborigines by the Boers as they advance into the interior. With regard to cases of alleged murder, I have already adverted to one. I may just allude to another, as related to me : — A farmer, angry with a native (a Bai'olong), took up a musket, and intended, as the man believed, to shoot him. The Barolong, being a stout man, wrested it from him. The farmer begged to have it returned. The man refused to deliver it up, on the plea that the farmer would shoot him. This he promised solemnly not to do, assuring him that his anger was now appeased, and he would do him no injury. After some little delay, the Barolong gave it up. The farmer took it, retired a few paces, turned round, and shot the man dead on the spot. Then, fearing it might turn against him, if reported, he fled, and con- cealed himself for some time. Meantime, he sent one of his servants, a Bushman lad, to Major Warden, to make an j affidavit that the gun had gone off accidentally, and killed j the man ! This was reported, I was informed, to the Attorney- General, whose ojiinion was, that there was no j case against the farmer, and that he might return to his farm. He did so, and no further notice of the case has been taken, nor investigation ever made. The Barolong's brother was a spectator, and could have given evidence, as well as others also. Before leaving the colony, I waited upon his Excellency the Governor, and I did so, partly that I might have the pleasure of introducing the Eev. Mr. Thompson, as the Society's agent in Cape Town, on the retirement of Dr. Philip from office, and partly that I might bring before Sir H. Smith the case of the Gonah Hottentots, as de- scribed in my chapter on the Kat River Settlement. Perhaps it would be scarcely fair to pass over, without BB 370 GOVEKKSIENT GRANTS. some notice, the aflfair of Government grants for education. I had several interviews with Dr. Innes, Superintendent of Education in the Government Schools, and through whom the usual grants from the Government had heen made to some schools in connexion with our Missions. The total amount granted from the Colonial Treasury for these pm-poses of education has heen about £2000 per annum, of which about £300 had been paid in connexion with schools more or less identified with our Missions. As this was found not to be in harmony with the views entertained b}' many of the Society's friends in England, the amount has been wholly declined for our schools, in future. Yet, comparatively small as the sum is, I did not feel authorized to draw on the Society for it, in the present state of its funds, and with positive instructions from the Directors to reduce the expenditure of the South African Missions £2000a-year below the average of the last ten years. And yet it would be a hard case, a cruel case, to deprive the people of the means of educating their children. They are not able themselves to bear the ex- pense of it, and some parties must afford them aid, or they "will perish for lack of knowledge." I think, in the final arrangement, however, of this matter, neither the Directors nor their constituents are compromised. Government will still make grants to schools ; but no longer as Mission Schools at all. They will be district schools, having their own local committees and treasurers, and providing for their own expenditure. I left the Cape for Mauritius on 13th July, on board the " Susan Crisp," Captain Holds worth. Mr. Peter Le Brun was my fellow-passenger. Nothing of remarkable interest occurred during the passage, and we came in sight of land early on the Sunday morning of 4th August ; but it was not till next morning that we came to anchor in Port Louis. By the aid of the telescope we could see Mr. Le ARRIVAL AT PORT LOUIS. 371 Bi'un standing on the verandah of his house and looking at us. I had apprised him, by a former vessel, that I was coming by the " Susan Crisp," and he immediately recog- nised our signals. He presently came off in a boat, and James Andrianisa, one of the Malagasy refugees, accom- panied him. As soon as the medical officer came on board and found all well — no disease on board, no occasion for quarantine — we quickly landed, and in a few minutes I found myself comfortably housed and kindly welcomed by Mr. and Mrs. Le Brun in their o\mi residence, where they had prepared two rooms for my reception and resi- dence during my visit. David Ratsarahomba, another of our INIalagasy refugees, and a truly excellent young man, known to many of our friends in England, and beloved wherever known, had died on the preceding Friday, only two days before my arrival in Mauritius. He had been anxiously awaiting me for some time, and had written to me to urge my coming to Port Louis, but was summoned to his rest without the gi'a- tification being afforded us of meeting each other again on earth. I felt it to be a disappointment. I should have been glad to have had the opportunity of conversing with him again. He could have assisted me much in drawing up some outline of events in the History of ]\Iadagacar and its persecutions, subsequent to the period at which tlie history closes, in the volume already published. His removal is a loss to the natives, his countrymen in the colony, for whose welfare he was diligently laborious. In the evening I accompanied Mr. Le Brun and his family to chapel. It was the Missionary prayer-meeting, and was excellently attended. The chapel I liked much. I had been to see it with Mr. P. Le Binin during the after- noon. It is a substantial building, and well situated, both for quietness and for the convenience of the population attending. It is inclosed with stone walls, and has a small piece of ground attached to it, planted with shrubs and trees, at once ornamental, and, by their agreeable shade, 372 CONGREGATION AT PORT LOUIS. highly useful m the hot season. The chapel is neatly pewed, and can accommodate about 500 persons. There are not at present any galleries. I understood, however, that the chapel was often so crowded on a Sunday morn- ing, that it Avas in contemplation to erect galleries, as soon as sufficient resources could be obtained. The Monday evening congregation was to me a very gratifying sight. Mr. Le Brun, jun., read a portion of scripture, and offered prayer in French. His father then gave a brief address from the 72nd Psalm, and introduced me as an old friend, formerly Missionary in Madagascar. Many Malagasy were present on the occasion. Mr. Le Brun requested me to address them. I felt a little uncertain whether, as I had not delivered any discourse in the Malagasy language for several years, I should be able to command more than a few words. I scarcely thought my memory would seiTe me for the occasion. However, I succeeded better than I expected, and spoke for some few minutes, assuring them of the pleasure I felt in meeting so many of them as natives of Madagascar, and in meeting them assembled for prayer, and in so convenient and excellent a place of worship. At the same time, I assured them I felt grief in the death of EafaravaAy, and now of David Eatsai'ahomba, whom I had expected to meet, but who was just removed from them before I reached the island, and also in the painful circum- stance that Madagascar was still closed against all our efforts. I find that those who were formerly slaves in the island are not now engaged in the manufactm'e of sugar. They require, it is affirmed, far higher wages than the planters can afford to give, so as to secure remunerating prices. Of course a very large proportion of those who were slaves have died off during the fifteen yeai's that have elapsed since the emancipation. The rest are either domestic servants or live on small plots of land, which they hire, where they raise and sell fruit and vegetables. The sugar is now manufactured chiefly by the labours of the immi- COOLIES FROM INDIA. 373 grant Indians, whose wages are much lower than those demanded by the Creoles. The latter ask five dollars per month, which is equal to Ss. per week ; the Coolies from India do not receive more than half that sum. They con- sequently expend less on food. In fact, their nourishment is extremely meagre — in many cases it is quite insufficient for the demands of nature ; and hence it has been thought, that the rapid mortality which takes place among them, may be accounted for. It would be Avell that statistical information on these points should be obtained and pub- lished. There had been a large recent arrival of labourers from India. The number of Coolies in the island is said to be 60,000. Many of them are so well satisfied with their work and wages in Mauritius, that they return a second, and even a third time for employment. They are extremely frugal ; they save their earnings, and carry home the amount to India. There is also a large number of Chinese residing here as artisans and petty shof)keepers. They occupy almost one entire side of the Bazaar, or public market, where they sell salt provisions. A Chinese temple has been erected here. I waited on the Governor. Sir William Anderson, at Reduit. I found him at home, and entered into conver- sation with him at considerable length on the subject of Madagascar. There is not any plan or arrangement at present on foot that awakens the hope of friendly i-elations being again established with the Government of that coun- try. He informed me that he had been in correspondence with the Malagasy Government, and had expressed the wish to be again on friendly terms, for the purpose of trade ; and the answer which he had received was couched in friendly terms — more so, in the opinion of Captain Dick, late secretary, than the Malagasy communications had been for some time past. The Governor had suggested to Lord Grey the propriety of sending a present to the Queen and her officers, as one means of resuming friendly relations. His Lordship had not approved of the plan, but thought 374 MALAGASY IX IIAUEITIUS. that ere long the Malagasy themselves, feeling the want of trade and commerce as the only means of improving their resources, would he induced to seek, of their own accord, some friendly relations with the British Government. This is a mistake, arising from the want of a more accurate knowledge of Madagascar. The Queen obtains all she wishes, by pressure on the people. The officers obtain booty, and a share in all confiscations : the people become impoverished, abject, and dispirited. This is no cause of anxious concern or generous regret with the native Govern- ment, whose policy is selfishness. There are several natives of Madagascar residing in Port Louis. They have for the most part lived in Mau- ritius many yeai's, and were formerly in slavery. I dis- covered this while inquiring of them if they had families. There were seven or eight women present. They replied, that they had not; that they had had families formerly, but their children were taken from them when young, and distributed or sold they knew not whither ; in fact, they had no means of knowing whether they were still living or not I — one of the horrid, inhuman results of slavery. Many of these people are members of Mr. Le Brnn's congre- gation ; some of them are communicants. They retain the native custom of bringing a present on coming to pay a stranger a visit. On calling to salute me on my arrival, they brought pigeons, fruit, and eggs. As soon as I conveniently could, I went to visit our Mission station, Moka, in the ^iMoka district. That name was originally given to it from the excellence of the coffee gi'own there, as resembling that sold in England from " Mocha." The actual distance of the village from Port Louis is not more than five or six miles across the mountains ; but it is not less than twelve romid the mountain of La Pouce, at the back of which it is situated. The walk over the hill is difficult and fatiguing, and I was unwilling to venture it. ^Ir. J. J. Le Binin is stationed there. The spot on which the Mission premises ai'e placed contains MISSION STATION AT MOKA. 375 about eighteen English acres, bounded at one extremity by a valuable stream or small river, La Baptiste, so called, it is said, from the number of persons who have been acci- dentally drowned in it, when crossing it after heavy rains, and when, of course, it is considerably swollen. The late Eev. D. Johns purchased the property on behalf of the London Missionary Society, as an asylum for the Mada- gascar refugees. At present the house, used as a chapel, was the dwelling-house occupied by Eafaravavy, and the Missionary dwelling-house was occupied by Mrs. Johns. Mr. and Mrs. J. J. Le Brun now reside there. It is hum- ble, inexpensive, and not very durable. The locality is excellent. The place is salubrious, and well supplied with water. It was, when purchased, covered with wood ; but it is now cleared, and occupied with gardens and plantation- grounds. I found a new chapel in course of erection. It is built of stone, and will accommodate about 300 persons. The stone is found on the property, and has been -wrought on the spot by masons, under the direction of a master mason, who was originally a native of Madagascar. He also superintends the caiiDsnters' and builders' work. It will cost altogether£1000. The people themselves, although poor, have contributed liberally, and they have been aided by the contributions of many, including £100 from the London Missionary Society. It may be, that about £500 would have sufficed to build a cliapel oi wood; but this is deemed most undesirable, if not indeed a waste of pro perty, partly on account of the destructive ant, called the carrier, and partly on account of the destructive hurricanes, to which all buildings in the island are exposed. Mr. Le Brun, jun. mentioned, in the course of conver- sation, a very satisfactory commendation of the people, chiefly Malagasy, under his care at Moka. Some of them, when lately appearing before the superintendent of police in that quarter, were addi'essed by that officer in the fol- lowing manner : — " Oh ! you come from Mr, Le Brun ? Very good ; then I know it is all right. I know your busi- 376 SUNDAY AT MOKA. ness — it is about marriage, or the registration of the birth of your children. Wlien others come, it is usually about robbery or some offence ; when you come, the affairs are easily arranged." I ^yas much pleased with all I saw here of Andrianado and his wife, natives of Madagascar. They appear to sus- tain fully the character I had heard of them as intelligent, consistent, and earnest Christians. He is named David Johns Andrianado, after our late devoted Missionaiy. His wife is called Mary, and their daughter Mary Anne. They have left two children in Madagascar, about whose welfare they are ver}' anxious. He is desii'ous of going over to Madagascar, to make inquiry as to the state of the Chris- tians, and thinks he can manage to do so without detection. Of course it incurs some risk ; and yet, if he could succeed in doing it, it might be worth while to run that risk. They live here in a neat and small cottage on the ]Moka pro- perty. He is allowed a salaiy as a native teacher, of about £'2 lOs. per month, — rather less than is necessary. I passed the Sunday at Moka in a manner which was to me replete with interest. \Ye had a congregation in the morning of about 130 persons, principally adults, to whom I spoke in Malagasy. Simeon, who was formerly in England as one of the refugees, offered an excellent and appropriate jirayer at the commencement of the seiwice. In the afternoon I walked over to " Nouvelle Decouverte," where I found a neat chapel, built by the people them- selves, and a congregation assembled, amounting to nearly 100, most of them being natives of Madagascar, though not recently arrived in this island. After service I walked back again to IMoka. The distance is about seven miles. Nearly twenty of the people accompanied Mr. Le Brun and my- self there and back again. The good folk kindly sent a small donkey- cart to meet us on the way, and we availed ourselves of its accommodation for a short distance ; but the roads were in a sad condition after the late rains, and the animal was scarcely, as we thought, equal to his task ; MALAGASY CHRrSTIANS IN MAURITIUS. 377 SO we preferred descending from our carriage and making the best of om' way to our journey's end, as Paul did on setting out from Mitylene to Assos, " on foot." It is just now proposed to carry a tunnel through the mountain of La Pouce, at an estimated expense of £60,000. This would place the district of Moka in the vicinity of Port Louis, and render the property of that district of greatly augmented value. The population also would no doubt be much increased. The roads of the island are excellent. They are macadamised, and, as the whole of the material is basalt, they are hard, and require compa- ratively little repair. Altogether there are 185 miles of road in the island. I had a long conversation with Paoly, a native of Mada- gascar, from Manahary, north of Tamatave, aBetsimisaraka, employed as an evangelist among his countrymen. He appears an excellent man. He is a mason by trade, and in part supports himself by his labour. He receives also £1 a month from our Society. He speaks of there being about fifty natives of Madagascar, resident in Port Louis, who are, so far as he can judge, genuine Christians. There are others also at Moka, and other parts of the island ; but he thinks there are scarcely 100 altogether who can read xveil. He estimates about 800 or 400 who connect themselves with the Christian congregations. Veiy many more would attend if they had places to meet in, contiguous to their residence. There appeared to me no hope for Madagascar, but in the succession to the crown. The young prince, advancing to supreme power, would no doubt alter the whole policy, and he may possibly attain that power, ere long, by the queen resigning her authority into his hands, or by her removal by death, in which event he would succeed as a matter of course. My impression is, tliat the queen would prefer to see him established on the throne herself, and may, there- fore, ere long, resign in his favour ; and by this means may be terminated the disagreement between the Malagasy and 878 PLAIN WILHELMS. the British Government, and the affair of Captain Kelly at Tamatave pass over.* According to a previous arrangement, Mons. Cheron called for me early the next Sunday morning, when I accompanied him, with Mr. J. J. Le Brun of Moka, to the house of a friend at Petite Eiviere, on whose premises a temporaiy chapel has heen erected, and where I found a good congregation assemhling. Many of these heing Creoles, i.e. born in the island, and all of them being fami- liar with French, it seemed best that Mr. Le Brun should take the principal part of the service in that language. I followed with an address in IMalagasy, the majority of those present knowing the language. They retain a knowledge of their language and use it among themselves, and are pleased to be addressed in it. After sendee, we set out for Mons. Cheron's residence, and held service there. A still larger number was present in the afternoon. ]\Ir. Le Brun preached, and I added an address at the close. M. Cheron intimated to them that I would call and pay them a visit next morning. They expressed themselves much pleased, and invited me to come. I remained, and passed the rest of the day with Mons. Cheron and his numerous family. Death had, however, recently made many inroads on his family circle. He had lost sixteen relatives during one year, and of that number nine died in the course of one month ! — a most unusual mortality in the connexions of one family. Mons. Cheron had been making some highly useful and liberal arrangements for the spiritual Avelfare of his neigh- bom-hood, and w'as anxious to obtain a IMissionary from our Society for "Plain Wilhelms;" and his desire should, I think, be complied with, if possible. He offers a plot of ground, and a chapel and dwelling-house, which he will make over to the Society. He offers to pay half the amount of the passage-money, whether for a single or a married Missionary, and he guarantees, or rather gives, £5 * See forwai'd — page 383. MISSIONARY REQUIRED. 379 per month for four years certain. He wishes him to open a school for the children of the neighbourhood. All this he was prepared to commit to writing, and I promised him that I would endeavour to promote the plan so far as I could, on reaching England. The Missionary must be, of course, familiar with the French language. I had the pleasure of laying the foundation-stone of the new chapel. About 100 persons assembled on the occasion. Many more would have attended, but that an epidemic pre- vailed extensively through the island. Mons. Cheron, on behalf of himself and friends, read an address to me with the view of urging on me their need of a pastor, and re- questing me to endeavour to procure one for them, to be sent out by our Society. I delivered a short address and then laid the stone, after which, Mr. J. J. Le Brun ad- dressed the company present, and Mr. P. Le Brun offered prayer, and the service closed iwith singing the doxology. The dimensions of the chapel are 50 feet by 24 feet. It is built of stone, and will cost about £800, including a neat dwelling-house for the Missionary. It is to be called " Freeman Chapel." I accompanied M. Cheron to visit a remarkable geolo- gical locality, called " Trou au cerf," or "Bassin," in his district, distant about six miles from his residence. It is the crater of an ancient volcano, about half a mile across the diameter of the upper rim, tapering down in a funnel shape, some 250 feet, and then having a level bottom with a small pool of water, from rains lately fallen, occupying the centre. The whole of the interior of the sides of the crater is covered with trees and shrubs. The exterior sides of the hill are covered also with vegetation, among which there is a large native population. Many of the inhabitants there are Malagasy, and it was to them I had promised that I would come and pay a visit. I saw them, conversed a little with them, and much Avished they had some teacher settled among them. None of them can read. I thought a Malagasy teacher might be located here, 880 LETTER FROM QUEEN' OF MADAGASCAR. and render much valuable service to the Missionary who may settle at Plain Wilhelms. We returned in the afternoon to M. Cheron's, where I remained for the rest of the evening. No information had been lately received from Madagas- car, either as to its political state or the condition of the Christians. The merchants of Port Louis had lately sent a petition to the Queen, praying that trade might be re- opened. Captain Gevint had taken the petition to Taraa- tave, to be conveyed from thence to the capital, and was going down again in the course of a month, with the hope of finding a reply from the Queen awaiting him. That reply arrived while I was yet in Port Louis, and the following is a translation of it : — "Antananarivo, 18 Alakaosy, 1850. " To Mr. Bell and J. Gevint and companions, 491, whose signatures are attached to their letter, "This is what I annoiince to you. I received your letter to the Queen of Madagascar, on the subject of opening the trade, and con- vejTJig the ' hasma' of three dollars, which you term an apology, according to the cvistom of the country. I have heard the whole of the communication made by your letter, and I have conveyed to the Queen of Madagascar the contents of your letter. And I inform you explicitly, that it was not Ave who fired the first shot ; but Romaia Defosses, and !Mr. Kelly and their companions, in tliree ships of war, fired first upon us to attack our country ; that excited our anger exceedingly, namely, the attack upon oiir country. "Consider, therefore, the nature of friendship, and do not be proud in reference to the friendship, for friendship that is real is what I am desirous of. Therefore, make R. Defosses and Mr. Kelly, and their companions in the three ships of war, who first fired upon us, to attack oiu- country, pay the fines. The fine to be paid by 11. Defosses and Mr. Kelly, is 700 dollars each, and theu- com- panions in the three ships, must pay 70 dollars each person, for they first fired on us, to attack our country, and that was the cause of stopping the trade. "However, we do not impose fines on those who have not fought against us, but only on those who attacked us. Therefore, if it be your wish that the trade should be open, cause to be paid those fines, but whoever pays the money must say, ' It is the fine paid by Defosses, ilr. Kelly, and their companions.' Then we shall accept TRADE PARTIALLY RE-OPEXED. 381 the fine that is paid, and the trade shall be open. And if you do not say that it is the fine from you, then the trade will not be open. " And if you say that the payment for goods purchased should open the commerce, we will not accept it: even if ten millions of dollars are offered, the trade will not be opened ; but if you pay it as the fine fi-om them, then we shall accept it. "And this further I tell you concerning the hasina, the three dollars sent by you, saying, ' It is the custom of your ancestors, with persons who wish to apologize to the Sovereign of INIadagascar' — The three dollars are retiu-ned to Gevint, for the law of the country of the Queen, and of her ancestors is, first to pay the fine, and then present the hasina. That is the established law of the country of our Sovereign, " Salutations to j'ou, saith " RAINIKIETAKA, " 12 Hon. Marshal, Officer of the Palace, Principal Secretary, " and RAZAFILAHY, " Chief Merchant at Tananarivo." It further appeared, that Mons. De Lastelle, connected with the mercantile house of Messrs. Eantony and Co., of Bourhon, but for many years a resident in Madagascar, as sugar planter and merchant, had succeeded in obtaining favourable terms for himself, for some re-opening of trade. It was stated that he had paid the Queen 15,000 dollars, (£3000 sterling) and obtained the monopoly of trade on the eastern coast to the end of the year ; that he had about 10,000 head of cattle ready for exportation, at the price of twenty dollars, shipped on board, and two dollars per head additional, to be paid to the Malagasy Custom-house. He had also 4000 tons of sugar on hand, with large quantities of copal, bees' wax, &c. It is stated also that the Queen demands a sum of 12,500 dollars (£2500) from the Govern- ment of Mauritius, before consenting to the re-opening of trade generally with the English, such sum to be con- sidered as an indenuiity for the attack made by the English and French on Tamatave, in 1845. On the arrival of this intelligence, I had another inter- view with the Governor, by appointment. He read to me 882 AFFAIRS OF MADAGASCAR. his letter to the Queen on his appointment and arrival here as Governor, expressing the wish to renew friendly relations with IMadagascar, and to see the usual commerce restored. The Queen's reply expressed a wish to see the friendly relations restored, but insisted on the payment of the fine for the attack on Tamatave, in J 845. The Gover- nor read to me also part of the despatch which he had received on this subject from Lord Grey, in which his Lordship declines the suggestion of Sir W. Anderson, as to making a present to the Queen. The English Govern- ment is unwilling to compromise its dignity by paying anything in the shape of a fine. And yet, without some concession of that nature, the trade cannot be re-opened. Much of this affair turns on the previous question, — whether we were right or wrong in the attack which, luiitedly with the French-r we had made on Madagascar. Perhaps Ave were somewhat too hasty in our steps. We committed a blunder in attempting to "punish these bar- barians," as we are too apt to designate them, without first estimating their strength, and ascertaining their de- fences. We did not send and proclaim war against Mada- gascar in a regular manner. The Queen had insisted on the foreigners on the coast either becoming her subjects, just as natives themselves are, or quitting her countiy within fifteen days. Some refused to become her subjects, and yet could not dispose of their property within the time specified, and a further time was granted, and at length some were forcibly driven out, with considerable sacrifice of property. The new law imposed by the Queen was extremely severe and unjust in another respect. Several of these foreigners had contracted engagements with the native Avomen of jNIadagascar, of a natm-e equi- valent to marriage, with whom they faithfully lived, and by whom they had offspring. Yet even these were required, either to become bond fide subjects of the Queen, or, in the event of their preferring to leave the country, not to remove their wives and families with them, but to ^ ^ AFFAIRS OF MADAGASCAR. 383 leave them in Madagascar. This has always appeared to me a hard case. The Queen's law, which might be highly proper in itself, should have been prospective, and not retrospective. At any rate, it should have been fairly modified in relation to the parties affected by it, under the peculiar circumstances now stated. Both parties, it seems to me, the IMalagasy Government and the English and French Governments, were gi'avely in fault; and as such, both ought to suffer the matter to pass into oblivion. The Queen has also less reason to complain of the English, I think, since the latter took no steps to re taliate the insult offered to the British Government in the expulsion of Mi*. Lyall, British Agent in 1829, nor to re- cover the property of British subjects forced out of Mada- gascar, by the change of policy regarding religion, property belonging to the Missionaries and the Society, amounting to no less a sum than 10,000 dollars (£2000 sterling) ! It is not at all necessary to rej^eat now any details of the attack made on Tamatave, in consequence of these Malagasy measures. Some English and French troops landed at Tamatave, attacked the fort, and were repulsed. They killed many of the Malagasy, and left also many of their own number dead on the coast. The heads of these Europeans were cut off, and placed on poles along the beach, whei'e they remain to this day, and of which t,he annexed sketch, taken by a French artist, affords a melan- choly and humiliating representation.* During my visit in Port Louis, two vessels were * Sometime after these heads had been thus exposed, an officer in the Qixeen's service, of high rank and of humane disposition, came do\v:i to Tamatave, in command of fresh troops. This was llatsito- haina, the chief officer in the Malagasy Embassy to tliis country, in the time of his Majesty William IV. Regarding tliis exposure of the heads of the slain as an unnecessary indignity, he ordered them to be taken down and buried. This act was reported to the Queen. It was treated as a grave oifence. " It was a proof that he sympa- thized with the enemies of the Queen." His head was ordered to be 384 AFFAIRS OF MADAGASCAE. engaged to go from Mauritius to Tamatave, to obtain some cargoes of cattle, under the new arrangement made with M. De Lastelle. I therefore made up my mind im- mediately, that I would accompany the " Nautilus." I went to Captain Ellis, whom I knew at the Cape of Good Hope, to complete the anrangements, and hold myself ready for tlie embarkation on the following Monday. But my plans were defeated. The captain was not allowed to take any passenger whatever, nor even a letter ! He had simply to go, obtain his cargo, and return ; and the same stipulation was made with regard to the other vessel, and these stipulations were insisted upon, most stringently, by M. De Lastelle, for reasons obvious to others as well as himself. Dr. Tavel, who had come to Mam-itius some time ago, from Tananarivo, where he had kindly aided the perse- cuted Christians, and had returned to Tamatave, was not only refused permission to go back to the capital from thence, but was sent off from the coast in a canoe, and picked up from that, by the boats of a ship in the har- bour. Nothing could be more insulting and cruel. This was said to have been done by Eainiharo and his party, while Dr. Tavel himself was only befriended by the yoimg prince, — an illustration of the extraordinarj'' influence of the prime minister, Eainiharo, — and, it is said, of M. De Lastelle. An important circumstance connected with the suspen- sion of trade with Madagascar, is the additional expense which it occasions to the British Commissariat in Mauri- tius. It was on this ground that the merchants of Mauri- tius, in an address to the Governor, asked for a pecvmiary grant from the colonial chest, to assist them in paying 15,000 dollars, to get the trade with Madagascar reopened. That request, the Governor felt obliged to decline. cut off and hoisted on a pole, and placed among the rest ; and on the beach they are still standing, and are to do so tUl the indemnity or fine is paid. LOSS TO THE KEVEXUE. 385 The mercantile document above referred to states, that the Commissariat purchased, prior to the suspension of trade, 40,000 lbs. of meat every month, but since then, only 25,000 lbs. — that the present contract is for 25,000 lbs. at fourteen centimes/''^ or if trade were to re-open, at clglit centimes, that is, in English money, at seven-pence or fourpence a pound respectively, being a difference of three-pence jyer 2J0und. The cost of 25,000 lbs. per month, at fourteen centimes, is £8700 per annum. At the reduced price which is contmcted for, if trade were to open, it would 1)6 for the same quantity, only £5000 per annum. So that the Government now pays for this quantity, £3700 a-year viore than it would do in peace; and as this state of things has gone on for six years, the total loss amounts to £22,000. Still, it may be said, this is not a real loss, but only nominal, because the Commissariat now pur- chases only 25,000 lbs. instead of 40,000 lbs. a-month, and that the 40,000 lbs. at eight centimes, would amount to £8000 a-year ; and therefore, that the Go- vernment actually saves by this arrangement £700 per annum. To this it may be replied, that the original quantity of 40,000 lbs. a-month, was then 15,000 lbs. a month too much, and the Government wasted that quan- tity, by giving it superfluously at a cost of £3000 per annum. If it were not too much then, the same quantity ought to be purchased now, and the soldiers ought not so be made to suffer for this want of amicable arrange- ments between the two Governments. Now, 40,000 lbs. a month, at the present price of fourteen centimes, would be £14,000 per annum, instead of the same quantity at eiriht centimes, amounting to £8000, a difference of £0000 per annum. To prevent that real loss, the allowance to the soldiers is reduced in quantity, and a nominal saving of £700 per annum effected. But supposing peace and trade restored, then the original quantity of 40,000 lbs. might be * A centime is the hundi-cdth part of a dollar, and a dollar is equal to foux sliilliiigs. c c 386 COOLIES WITHOUT INSTRUCTION'. trivcn to the troops at this cost of £8000, whereas the re- duced quantity of 25,000 Ihs. now costs that same sum. The troops in the island are said to amount to 1500 alto might exercise that superintendence ; but they have no acquaintance with the Indian languages, and the native teachers would have no acquaintance with French ; and hence the superintendence would be extremely imperfect and ineffective. In the existing state of the Society's funds, it would be impossible, I fear, to place a European JNIissionary at Mauritius, for the sake of the native Indians. Unle>< familiar with their language, it would be useless, and that could only be acquired in India ; and, having acquired it there, he has an immensely larger field of usefulness open before him there, than he could have by coming io ROMAN CATHOLICS IN MAURITIUS. 387 IMauritius. Then again, with regard to INIauritius, the only party increasing rapidly is the Roman Catholic. They have a bishop, and about eight or ten priests, and subordinate helpers of various grades. The payment of salaries by the Government gives them great facility for action. Their bishop has £'600 a year, and the priests, who are single men, £250. They have also numerous fees from the people, on baptism, marriage, &c. A great deal of the work, in constructing their chapels, is per- formed gratuitously, as works of "merit." The j)eople are expected to labour, especially on Sundays ! " Every stone carried then for the building is specially noted in heaven, and put down to account!" The Roman Catholic Bishop in Mauritius wrote a letter some time ago to a party in England. It was there pub- lished, and has travelled back to the Maiiritius. He states, that the Government is doing all that it can to encourage Protestantism, but happily they, the Roman Catholics, are able to check the efforts, and the cause of the true apostolic church is advancing and triumphing. He adds, that the good people at Seychelles had long requested to have a minister of their own faith sent to them, — meaning of course, in his view of the matter, a Roman Catholic ; " but that the Government had, instead of it, sent them a Pro- testant, thereby fulfilling," says the Bishop, the " scripture that says, 'When they ask for bi-ead, a stone shall be given instead !' " This is not our version. The Church of England has not much influence in Mauritius. It is attended, of course, by the English residents, chiefly officers of the Government, and a few merchants. The senior chaplain cannot be heard when he preaches, on account of some defective pronunciation. But the general impression is, that this is not a serious loss to the community. The second chaplain is a man of sterling excellence. Rev. L. Bankes. Mr. Le Brun s congi-egation consists wlioUy of the co- 388 SICKNESS AT MArRITIUS. loured people, among whom there appear to he some truly excellent people, although not having much weight in the community. For the religious instruction of the natives of ]Madagas- car who are at Mauritius, useful efforts are made by Mr. Le Brun and his son, at Port Louis; and by Mr. P. Le Brun, at Moka, aided by Andrianado. James, Simeon, and Paoly, are also indefatigable, and it is hoped that Joseph may shortly return from Mohilla, and unite with them in these important labours. Port Louis is said to be much less healthy than for- mei'ly ; but in walking about, I confess T could not be in the least surprised. I saw so much dirt, and the streams and drains imcovered emit so much abominable effluvium, it is only marvellous that sickness and death are not more pre- valent. There seems to me to want a vigilant municipality with sanitary regulations, and power to enforce them everj'where. Indeed, the general healthiness of Mauritius is said to have deteriorated since the introduction of so many Coolies from India. Many of these are in feeble health on their arrival. Their food is not sufficiently nu- tritious, and they decay and die. They reside in large numbers in the same house, and this also augments dis- ease, especially with the want of habits of cleanliness. I accompanied Mr. Le Brun to visit several members of his congregation, but found almost every house affected with the prevailing epidemic. The annual meeting of the medical men of Port Louis was being held, but eight of their number Avere absent, on account of being personally seized with the influenza — "la grippe," as the French terra it. Twenty-four of the police were reported as laid aside, incapable of sendee from the same cause. In one of the commercial establishments, employing one himdred Mala- bars, ninety of the men were laid up, leaving ten only able to work. At the IMalagasy congregation in the evening, instead of the ordinary attendance of one hundred, there were only fifteen present. The influenza is in the lungs. PEKSECUTIONS IN MADAGASCAR. 389 not the membrane of the kings. It is attended with tight- ness of the chest, severe coughing, headache, and pains in the limbs generally. It lasts a few days, yields to mild ti'eatment, and then disappears. The newspaper called ''Sentinelle," one morning issued a half sheet only, the half its usual size, and contained the following apology : " Our compositors, with the exception of one man, are all laid up with the prevailing influenza." Since my return to England, intelligence has been re- ceived respecting the state of the Christians in IMadagas- car. It appears, that in consequence of the oppressions under which the people generally are labouring in that country, many of them try, from time to time, to effect their escape into some of the provinces, at a distance from the capital, the seat of Government. In doing this some have been apprehended by the Queen's troops, who are stationed at various "out-posts, and who act as guards and patroles. As a punishment for attempting to run away, they have been sold as slaves to Arab merchants on the w^estern coast, and some of them taken to Mohilla. There they have been ransomed by the friendly chief, a daughter of the late Eamanetaka, cousin to the late Radama. From these natives information has been obtained as to the con- dition of Madagascar and the sufferings of the Christians. In May, 1850, it was ascertained by the Government, that many of the people were still, in defiance of the law, assembling for Christian worship. Officers were accord- ingly sent to apprehend them, and on reaching the spot, many miles distant from Antananarivo, they themselves were astonished to find so many assembled in the act of worship, and having moreover a chapel, which they had built for themselves. They were in number upwards of one thousand. The first step was to ascertain who Avere the leaders of the party, and who had built the chapel, and then to discriminate between those who had been 390 MARTTRDOMS IN' MADAGASCAR. already convicted on previous occasions, and waiTied against committing the same offence again, and those who had recently united with them. An immense assembly of the people was convened to be present at their trial, or rather, at those proceedings which, though called a trial, amount to nothing more than the deliveiy of a message from the sovereign, and the final sentence regarding the punishments to be inflicted. Time was allowed for parties to become their own accusers. Voluntary confession usually exempts from the severe or capital punishment that is inflicted, where conA'ictions are obtained through the evidence of others. Four of the Christians, nobles of the land by birth, were condemned to death at the stake. These were Andriantsiamba, Ramitraha, Andriampaniry, and his wife. Fourteen of the Christians were also put to death, by being thrown over the steep and precipitous rock, Ampahamarinana. They were bound with cords, and suspended for a time over this dreadful precipice, and asked if they would take the oath proffered to them, im- plying that they would never transgress in this matter again; and on their steady refusal, the cords were let go, and they were dashed to pieces ; hurled from the rocks, their cry Avent up to heaven, and their spirits joined the glorious company of the martyrs. Penalties and j^unishments have been imposed on all the rest, whose total number, it aftenvards appeai'ed, amounted to upwards of sixteen hundred ! "Now thanks be unto God who giveth us the victor}-," that his Word is still mighty to subdue the hearts of men to obedience and faith, — that so goodly a company of con- fessors could be found in Madagascar, and that so large a number has proved ''faithful even unto death.'' CHAPTEE XVII. CEYLON— ADEN— SUEZ. LEAVE MAURITIUS GALLE IX CEYLON NATIVE CANOES ROUTE TO COLOMBO COLOMBO BAZAAR BETEL NUT PRODUCE PEARLS TREASURES OF THE DEEP SCENERY — WESLEYANS IN CEYLON — ■ BAPTIST MISSION DR. m'VICARS — • ATOLFENDAL MISSIONARY' MEETING COTTON LORD TORRINGTON PRISON SIR ANTHONY OLIPHANT " HADDINGTON" VOYAGE TO ADEN ADEN VOLCANIC APPEARANCES OF ADEN POPULATION SUMALl'S. I EMBARKED at Poi't Louis Oil boai'cl the Government packet "Elizabeth," Capt. Kidson, for Point de Galle, Ceylon, having one passenger on board besides myself, the Government Resident of Goojoorat. We found our Captain a remarkably well-read and intelligent man, a little inclined to be cynical after indigestion, acute in his remarks on men and manners, always kind in action, and thoroughly tired of his roving life on the ocean, without seeing his way to forsake it. I chose this somewhat circuitous route in returning to England, for the purpose of passing a little time in Egypt, and if possible in Palestine. I knew that by taking this overland route, I could reach home about as soon as if I had come by a sailing vessel from Mauritius and round the Cape. Of the latter route I had already acquired sufficient experience. I longed for the charm of variety and novelty, and I knew that Egypt and Palestine would present an ample supply of such attractions. On reaching Galle I took up my quarters at Mansion House Hotel. There is nothing of interest on approach- 392 COLOMBO, CEYLON. ing Galle, except the exhilarating expectation of being soon on shore. The boats, indeed, which convey you from the vessel to the beach come in rather a " question- able shape." I confess I ventured into one with a little ■wholesome hesitation. They seem as though they would certainly tilt over, unless you balance yourself with the exactness of a chronometer. They are formed of native trees, simply scooped and hollowed out, provided with planks fitted to their sides to give them height, and then with outriggers, to prevent their upsetting. After all, they are extremely narrow, awkward, and uncouth ; but the charges for them are moderate. For two shillings a passenger gets on shore with all his luggage. The town is neither large nor beautiful ; yet it has a touch of the picturesque about it, and is not destitute of comforts. The European popula- tion is small ; it consists of about thirty of the elite, such as would be entitled to attend an assembly or a hal costume, or to occupy the chief seats in the synagogue. The language principally used is a Portuguese j^atois. Keligious seiwices are conducted in English, Portuguese, and Cingalese. I paid a brief visit to Colombo, the seat of Government. The distance is seventy-two miles. It occupied ten hours, and a return ticket by the mail, the only regular convey- ance, cost the monstrous sum of five pounds. At the Cape I had paid only eight shillings for forty miles by an omnibus, from Cupe Town to Paarl : that was modei-ate ; this Ceylonese charge I thought exorbitant. Still, the ride from Galle to Colombo is worth it, for it is exceed- ingly beautiful. The road lies near the coast, almost the whole distance, and for a considerable jiart of the way, is lined on both sides with the cocoa-nut tree. In many places these form a magnificent avenue ; the tops of these graceful trees meet across the road and shelter it from the scorching rays of the sun. On many of the trees ropes are suspended, stretching from one to another. The EOAD TO COLOMBO. 300 natives manage to walk along these when tapping the trees, to obtain the juice from which to manufacture toddy, and to obtain the fruit. On some trees also I observed a long bough or frond of the tree, tied up against its trunk, so as to prevent depredators from ascending to steal the nuts. Besides the cocoa-nut tree, there were many jack -fruit and bread-fruit trees, also abundance of the vakoa, a species of the screw-pine, mangoes and bam- boos. Flowers were not very numerous. We passed also abundance of the banana tree, and several cinnamon plant- ations. The latter yield no fragrance, unless in blossom. The leaves and stems are deliciously fragrant ichen bruised. The road presents a lively scene throughout. Native cottages are met with on both sides, nearly the whole distance, and, with few exceptions, are within a few yards of each other. There are also some towns and villages through which the mail i")asses ; the chief of these is Caltara, where there are many commodious and pleasant- looking villas. It is the residence of an Englisli magis- trate. About half way on the road is an apology of an hotel, where an apology of a breakfast is provided, and for eating which the traveller has to make his apology in the shape of three shillings. Colombo must be pronounced a fine town. The Govern- ment House appears to be spacious, appropriate, and com- fortable, and the part of the town where it is situated is open, airy, and agreeable. The houses were built origin- ally by the Portuguese ; they have spacious verandahs, and consist of large halls and wings. They are built, for the most part, of a peculiar kind of rock, found extensively in the island, and which, it appears, answers the purpose extremely well; but what the rock mineralogically is, there seems some difHculty in deciding. Dr. M'Vicars, with whom I had some conversation respecting it, and who ap- pears to be familiar with the geology of the country, con- siders it to be a species of magnetic iron ore. The iron found in it gives it duraljility ; but it has also much clay 394 BAZAARS — BETEL NUT. in it, and the appearance of decomposing feldspar. It iS easily wrought into blocks for building, and, when built, is covered with a plastering of mortar, obtained from the coral with which the coast abounds. The town of Colombo is large ; its principal streets or roads branch out in straight lines in various directions. Part of it is called the " Fort," and part the " Pettah ;" the former includes the portion of the town which lies, as the name imports, within the walls of the Fort. The Pettah is the portion we should designate " the suburbs," where the bazaar, or market, is held. The bazaar is large ; part of it consists of rows of houses, the lower portions of which are used as shops, as well as the verandah, which immediately faces the shops. The verandah is filled with tbe various articles on sale, spread out on mats on the groimd; and here may be found rice, and grain of all kinds — vegetables and fruits, crockery, ironmongery, wooden- ware, earthen bowls, &c., haberdashery, common jewellery; — in fact, everything in native demand. There are also other portions of the bazaar, properly so called, having sheds under cover, without dwelling-houses, where fish, meat, poultry, &c., may be procured. The whole is a scene full of animation and variety. Here are Cingalese and Hindoos, in all varieties of dress and appearance. The Anglo-native descendants are usually called "Burghers ;" but this is not considered so respectful as " Dutch descend- ants," or " Portuguese descendants." These latter con- stitute a numerous class, and are mostly Eoman Catholics. They form a large body of the inhabitants, but have now few converts from the Cingalese. To me, one of the most disagreeable things in the appearance of the natives, that I met with, is the universal use of the betel-nut («;•«>(?«), mixed with lime and a leaf; — men and women, old and young, fathers and mothers, lads and maidens, — all indulge in the practice. It is prepared and sold in all the bazaars and shops along the road. It gives a bright, blood-red appear- ance to the lips, gums, and teeth. It is said to preserve the PEARL FISHERT. 395 teeth from decay ; but it is also said to be extremely preju- dicial in the long-run to health ; much in the same way, I suppose, that the habitual use of opium, or tobacco, may be I was notable to procure any good " Hand-book" of Cey- lon, giving, in a short compass, the information a traveller might wish to obtain. I found such information princi- pally in the Ceylon " Almanack ;" but I understood that Sir Emerson Tennant, late Secretaiy to Government, was about publishing a full and comprehensive account of the island, and Avhich would contain a large amount of valu able statistical information that may be relied on. I gather, from a small work on Ceylon, which I borrowed there, that the average amount of coffee exported from the island during 1844, 5, and 6, was 480,452 cwt. — nearly 25,000 tons ; that about half a million pounds weight of cinnamon is annually exported, besides an amazing quantity of cocoa- nuts, cocoa-nut oil, and coir. There are many manufac- tories of this coir on the road between Galle and Colombo. The shells of the nut are first well soaked, the fibres are then beaten out, and in that prepared state it is conveyed to the rope-walks for manufacture. The pearl-fishery was formerly of great value in Ceylon. The Government claimed the right of letting out the fisheries, and it apjiears that the revenue of Government, received from this source of income during forty years, say from 1796 to 1837, amounted to the enormous sum of £828,381 10s. Irl, — nearly a million of money ! How im- mense, how boundless, are the treasnres of the deep I These fisheries are now forbidden. They Avere becoming exhausted and destroyed by being overworked. After a few years, they will be worked again, and made to yield a harvest for the service of man. " Thou hast put all things imder his feet ; all sheep and oxen, yea, and the beasts of the field, the fowl of the air, and the fish of the sea, and whatsoever passeth through the paths of the sea." Psalm viii. — 8. It was a great addiliunal pleasure to nic, while at Ceylon, 396 MAGNIFICENT SCENERY, to meet the deimtation from the Baptist Missionary So- ciety, consisting of Kev. Mr. Leecliman, and my brother- in-hiw, Rev. Joshua Eussell. We passed several pleasant hours together, with our fi'iends at Ceylon. The deputation, which had been to Kandy, had just returned to Colombo. They had been much delighted with the scenery on their trip ; they found it grand and enchanting. It almost tempted me to go there also ; but my time was brief; I was anxious to return to Galle in time for the steamer expected for Suez, so that I could have had only a day, or two days at most there, and it seemed scarcely worth while to pay another £o for the fare of the mail there and back ; losing, at the same time, the opportunity of seeing more of Colombo, and meeting the friends there. And after all, I must confess, I had now seen so much that is magnificent and beautiful, that I ceased to be anxious to visit spots, merely for the sake of scenery. There required some additional object of attraction. Wales, North and South, the Lakes of Killarney and West- moreland, Old Scotia and Jamaica, ]\Iadagascar and Kaffir- land, Natal and Mauritius, had satisfied me in that respect; and now, having seen Tabor and Hermon, Carmel and Lebanon, I am content, and willing to remain at home. I called on Eev. Mr. Gogerly, Wesleyan Missionary, and superintendent of this district. He appeared to me hale and vigorous for a man, I suppose, about 60 years of age, and after 30 years' continuous service in Ceylon. He had not been to England during all that period, but still wished. if it could be so arranged, to return home in the course of a short time. I was much gratified with my brief inter- view with him; he appeared " full of his work," and to have his heart in it. On the review of the labours of the Christian Church in Ceylon, he was of opinion that there was ample ground for thankfulness and encouragement. His hopes rested chiefly on the training of a native ministry, and he thought the Wesleyan Society was successful in the prosecution of that object. They have SUNDAY AT COLOMEO. 307 some natives already ordained as pastors, and they have others under a careful course of training and preparation. They greatly need further help from England ; and he expressed the hope that Missionaries were on their way out, or shortly would be. But the great desideratum, he considered to be, a more earnest and decided character in the piety of the natives, and for that purpose a much more copious communication of the influences of the Holy Spirit ; and to this point in particular, he thought the prayers of the Church at home should be directed. I was much gratified with the Mission School for native girls, under the able care of Mrs. Allen, wife of the Baptist minister at Colombo. They are instructed, educated, and boarded by means of resources raised principally by her indefatigable exertions, among her own friends. They cost about £b per year each. I spent the Sunday at Colombo very pleasantly. In the morning I heard Mr. Eussell preach a sound, useful, prac- tical discourse, in relation to the alleged imperfections of primitive Christians, and modern native converts, exhibiting the unreasonableness of expecting perfection in their character, and the injustice of denouncing or declaiming against Christianity itself, on the ground that real converts are often found imperfect, and pretended converts insincere. I heard Dr. M'Vicars also, at the Scotch Church, deliver an able discourse on the power of habit and custom, as illus- trated in the history of Saul of Tarsus, prior to his conversion, and founded on Acts ix. 1. To the Doctor I had lettex"s of introduction from a nmtual friend, C. U. Stuart, Esq., now of Bloem Fontcin, in South Africa. I spent the day, between the services, at I\Ir. Allen's, in company with Mr. llussell. Our evening service was almost too warm for an European. 'J'lie chapel was filled, and the place excessively hot, from tlie great number of cocoa-nut oil lamps, with immense wicks, burnin-pt and Syria. The most southern town of S}Tia on the west is Khan Jounes, — Jonah's Khan. Abbas Pasha claims some paramount authority over this part of the countiy, between El Arish and Khan Jounes. He does not occupy it by troops, nor exact service or taxes, but he holds tlie Sheikhs of it responsible for good behaviour, as far as " Picfah," which consists now of ruins only, but at Avhich two pillars are set up, as in some way a boundary mark between tlie two countries of Egj'pt and Syria. QUAEANTINE. 439 I was surprised and delighted to see the great quantity of ploughed land in this jiart of my route. I had thought it would be imj)ossihle to produce any harvest on such a soil. It is all sand, with merely a few scattered stunted bushes. But that very sand is fertile. It is first ploughed, then, as soon as rain falls, it is ploughed again, then sown, and the seed is ploughed in ; and in the course of three or four months, a good harvest is obtained — the barley har- vest first, and then wheat, beans, lentils, &c., &c. The ploughing is a very simple process. Two asses are em- ployed, or a camel, or two oxen or cows, to draw the plough, and a man walks behind guiding it with one hand. The town of El Arish is the place for performing quaran- tine for all persons passing /ro?;i Syria into Egypt; but for those who are proceeding to Syria, the quarantine is per- formed at Gaza, or in part at Khan Jounes, and the rest at Gaza. My passjjort was " vised' ' here, and a guarantee certificate obtained from me for my two attendants, for whom I had not taken out i^assports at Cairo. Being natives, it had not occurred to me as necessary, and they themselves assured me, that in Cairo they were informed by the proper authorities that it was not in their case need- ful or customary. However, the charge for it was only three piastres, about 7d. sterling. It was made out in Italian, but the general language used here is Arabic. During the latter of my journey, not far from El Arish, we were " called up" by a Bedouin Arab well mounted and armed. He demanded a piastre for each of the three Nazarenes, meaning Christians, of my party, — myself and two attendants. The camel-drivers being all Mahomet- ans, are not required to pay. Of course, the amount was immediately forthcoming. He bowed politely and passed on. I came prepared for this " black mail" demand. It was to occur three times on the route, and has in it, if complied with, nothing very formidable or very expensive. CHAPTER XIX. PALESTINE. KHAN JOUKES MURDER RETALIATION GAZA aUARANTINE LAZA- RETTO MOSQUE — ASHDOD RAMLAH HILL COUNTRY JERUSALEM CITY WALLS — MOSaUE OF OMAR FOUNDATIONS OF THE TEMPLE VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT DR. GOBAT CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE LITERARY SOCIETY POOL OF SILOAM ANCIENT BRIDGE — -MOUNT OF OLIVES GETH3EMANE BETHANY SOLOMON's POOLS HEBRON PILGRIMS MACHPELAH MAMBE BETHLEHEM GILGAL — JERICHO JORDAN GREEK CHRISTIANS DEAD SEA NABY MOYSE CISTERNS IN JERUSALEM SUPPLIES OF WATER MOHAMMEDANISM LEAVE JERUSALEM BETHEL ANATHOTH SHECHEM — Jacob's well — ebal— gerizim — sebaste' — jenin — ESDRAELON NAZARETH MOUNT TABOR LAKE OF TIBERIAS CITY OF TIBERIAS — MAGDALA MOUNT HERMON — THORNS AND THISTLES CONDITION OF WOMEN BANIAS — SILKWORMS DRUSES DAMASCUS MISSIONARIES AT DAMASCUS MOHAMMEDANISM ROMANISM OUTBREAK AT ALEPPO — JEWS AT DAMASCUS — -ZEBEDANE BAALBEC IMMENSE BLOCK DIFFICULT TRAVELLING ZACHLE MALAKA HAIL, SNOW, ICE BEYRUT ALEXANDRIA THE RIPON ARRIVAL AT SOUTHAMPTON REACH HOME DIRECTORS PAPAL AGGRESSION SUMMING UP— CONCLUSION. Entering now the ancient countiy of the Philistines, I hoped to have reached Gaza from Sheikh Juide in one day. That I found, however, from its distance, to he impracti- cable. In the course of the morning we came to Eefah, or Eaffia, once a city of considerable magnitude, as is evident from the quantity of fragments of pottery scattered pro- fusely over the ground. Two pillars of dark-red granite remain, about twelve feet high and sixteen inches dia- KHAN JOUNES. 441 meter, and these are beautifully polished. At a short dis- tance is a large well, of from six to eight feet diameter, of great depth, but not now used. Here Pharaoh's daughter was delivered into the care of the elders who came down from Solomon to receive her, on the occasion of the marriage of the son of David with the daughter of the Egyptian monarch. Here also Antiochus and Ptolemy fought : elephants had been trained for the battle, and Antiochus was defeated. We came to Khan Jounes a little after mid-day, fully resolved on going forward ; however, the Governor of the town, a Turkish authority, and his suite, met my men, and told them it was proper to remain for the night, assigning as reasons, that we could not reach Gaza that night, and that he could not at that moment send the escort with me, which he deemed essential to my safety ; but that no time would really be lost, as this delay would be reckoned a part of my quarantine. Five days are demanded for quarantine on entering Syria, including the days of arrival and departure. Khan Jounes is in Syria, and the Governor is under the Sultan, and not Abbas Pasha. My stay there would be reckoned one day, and the next day, on reaching Gaza, would be accounted a second day, out of the stipulated five days. My attendant very prudently told me, that, being now in quarantine, I must not move to any distance from my tent. The same cir- cumstance prevented all intrusion on the part of the people. We kept a respectful distance from each other. We pitched our tent near some tombs. Two women shortly after passed by, crying and weeping bitterly. One of them had just lost her husband, a camel-driver, who had been killed during the week by the Bedouins who had that veiy morning demanded of me black mail, and to whom I paid three piastres. The demand in the case of this murdered man was made on account of some Chris- tians whom he was conducting on the road. The camel- driver had refused the payment. His temerity cost him 442 RETALIATION. his life. The man who was killed belonged to Klian Jounes. I asked what the authorities would do in that case, and the answer was, " Nothing." They cannot, by their customs, do anything. The murderers are Bedouin Ai'abs, and the people here are FeUahins. These will retaliate on the Bedouins whenever an opj^ortunity occui's, and kill one of their number. A wild kind of justice, or rather injustice this, for vengeance may fall on a most innocent victim ! The tribe suffers, but the real mur- derer may escape. Khan Jounes is a place of some importance. The view of it, in approaching, is pleasing ; there are many large and inclosed gardens. The sight of green was refreshing after the monotonous sands of the last ten days. I saw water-wheels at work, of a very ancient consti'uction, and concluded the place was well watered. Cactuses are here immensely large ; their fruit is much liked by the people. There were none ripe at present, neither were the dates ripe. I could hear of no other fruits being raised here, nor any vegetables at all. The people seem to live very sparingly ; their principal food is cake, — a little flour and water baked on the earth by means of hot embers. The one I ate on trial I found good, but I felt that I would much rather not be confined to such coarse diet. A guard on horseback was now appointed to accompany us all the way to Gaza, to keep all passers-by at a respect- ful distance, including the very dogs of that country, lest, by any chance, we, coming up out of Egypt, might infect them with the plagues of that country ; and they, in turn, unfortunately infect the good people of Palestine. Many Arabs passed us on horseback, well dressed, armed to the teeth, and on good steeds. They were quarantine officers, under the government of Syria, and had either been with parties to Gaza, or were on the look-out for such as try to evade the quarantine laws, by taking some circu- itous route away from the high road. We reached the Gaza district about mid-dav, crossed a ENTERING PALESTINE. 443 Wadi, called the Wadi Gaza, and then some low sand-hills, and came in sight of the town, with tlie Lazaretto and its red flag flying, at a short distance on the south side of the town. I tried to get permission to fix my tent outside the Lazaretto, in the fields, but was told it was not the custom. So into the Lazaretto we were conducted, as if criminals awaiting execution. It is a large quadrangular building, with several apartments for travellers. There are upper rooms at the two extremities, at one side of the square, totally unfurnished, and for one of these for myself, and one below for my servants, I had to pay £1 18s., and more- over, to have the honour of boarding two men with my servants during my stay, who should watch that we did not break through quarantine. An impudent piece of imposition altogether ! Here was a fine season ; no sick- ness prevailing at Cairo, from whence we came ; no sick- ness in any of my party ; and yet Jive days' quarantine and delay demanded, and payment into the bargain ! But it could not be avoided ; and so I submitted to it with the best grace that an Englishman, not at home, could do. There is a tolerably good view of the town from the build- ing. Cultivation is also extensive ; and the scene from the front window is thoroughly good, and reminded me of some of our English parks. There is a well-built fountain in the centre of this Lazaretto, and the water is of excellent quality. Here, then, I found myself actually in Palestine ; and although not yet in the most interesting section of it, still it was the land of the Bible, every inch of which seemed full of incident. I was now in the original oovintiy of the Philistines, and in Gaza, on the coast allotted to the tribe of Dan. From this ancient town Samson carried away the gates, as recorded in Judges xvi. 21 ; and here, too, he was made prisoner, and subsequently took his revenge on the lords of the Philistines, who had assembled for sport, by destroying them at a moment when most intent on their merriment. In the New Testament, we find Philip 444 GAZA. instructed to proceed to the road that conducted "from Jerusalem to Gaza, which is desert," and in doing which, he met with the officer of Candace, queen of Ethiopia, ex- plained to him the prophecy of Isaiah, and administered to him Christian baptism, on his profession of faith in the Saviour. The afternoon before I was allowed to leave Gaza, the medical attendant attached to the Lazaretto came to pay me his official visit. He was formerly a Eoman Catholic, but is now a Mussulman. The only ordeal I had to go through, was " to show my tongue." The doctor seemed as satisfied Avith its appearance as I was with the reality ; and so we wished each other good day. Next came the demand for the £1 18s, for the quarantine fees, &c. ; and then a civil request for " backsheesh," for the servants in attendance. My passport was also returned in due form, and endorsed. We began early next morning our preparations for de- parture ; and, by eight o'clock, were ready for starting. I took a guide and went through the ancient town, giving directions that the camels should meet me outside, at a little distance on the Askalon road. I found the town large ; and, perhaps by mid-day, when the bazaars ai'e all open and j^eople are full of business, it may wear some appearance of activity. In the morning I found everything dark, dull, and insipid. The houses are built of mud ; and the pathways are narrow, dusty, dirty, and abominably disagreeable. The shops in the bazaars are very ancient ; they are built chiefly of stone, and covered in with stone archways. I could fancy some of them to be just what they were when Samson paid Gaza his visits. Gaza occupies the side and summit of a hill of no great elevation. On the north-east, the view is extensive ; the distant hills come into view, and must be those, I appre- hend, to which Samson "carried the gates of Gaza." They appear to be about thirty miles distant. The old town of Gaza was, however, destroyed during the Jewish MOSQUE AT GAZA. 445 war, and was to remain uninhabited. " Gaza also shall see it, and be very sorrowful, and Ekron, for her expecta- tion, shall be ashamed, and the king shall perish from Gaza." — Zech. ix. 5. This old town is not far from the present one. It is in part occupied ; but there are many ruins, and among them are, it is said, the very pillars of the temple of Dagon, that Samson pulled down on the heads of the Philistine nobles I On the site of the temple, the empress Helena built a magnificent Christian church. That church has since been converted into a mosque ; and is, in fact, the principal mosque in the place. It is a noble structure, contains some good Corinthian pillars, and is among the oldest Christian antiquities in the country. The keeper made no scruple about admitting me, simply pointing, however, to my shoes, and intimating that I must do as he did, take them off, and leave them at the door. Having stockings on, and good mats to walk on, it was no severe punishment. We encamped at Hamami in the evening, and next morning passed by Asdud, the "Ashdod" of the Old Testament, and the " Azotus " of the New. It is not now inhabited to any considerable extent, but was once a place of much importance and strength. We crossed the Wadi Asdud and two ancient bridges in the course of our journey, and passed two large villages, Igbabah and Zur- nogah, not laid down in the maps which I had with me. They were about half-way between Asdud and Ramlah. I passed over a portion of the extensive plains of Shai'on, with its fine arable land, a large proportion of which — although its population is sparse — is under culti- vation. Animal food is not in general use. The natives subsist principally on wheat; and hence we may account for their cultivating what might else seem an unneces- sarily large quantity of ground. I next reached Ilamlah, tlie ancient Arimatluja — once of some importance, now comparatively poor, and much 446 ANCIENT ARIMATHEA. dilapidated. Here my engagement with the camel- drivers tei-minated ; and I had to obtain mules and muleteers to convey me to Jerusalem, distant now one long day's jour- ney. Ramlah is a large to\^Ti, and looks well from the field immediately below it, where we encamped. Most of the houses have dome-shaped roofs to their principal rooms. The casements, or windows, are made of cylindrical tiles, open at both ends, and of three inches diameter. These little brick cylinders are piled on each other, in the shape of pjTamids. They admit some air and a modicum of light. They sei'\'e as " jalousies ;" persons within the rooms can peep out through them, and see a little of what is passing ; but those without can see nothing of what is passing within. Alas ! for women under Mohammedan rule ! I found it difficult to procure mules at Ramlah, except- ing at a very exorbitant rate. My attendant, Barzily, pro- ceeded to Jaffa, to procure some there, and returned soon after midnight. I required the same number of mules that I had had of camels. These animals are strong, well- trained, and capable of enduring much fatigue. Their iron- shod feet pass much better over the stony and rocky soil than camels could. The attendants pack large sacks of straw on the backs of the mules, and then lash the packages across these, so as to hang down by their sides. In the same manner they CiU'ried my " tetrawan " without difficulty. Part of the road from Eamlah is good. The country is a fine rich fertile plain ; after that the scene changes. In- stead of a rich loamy soil, it all becomes stony and hilly. It is the hill country of Judea. The rock is a fine- grained limestone. In the course of the afternoon, Barzily went fonvard to endeavour to secm-e my admission through the gate at Jerusalem, in case I should not ai-rive there till after sun- set, when it is usually closed. It was well he did so, for instead of reaching the city by five or six o'clock, the ARRIVAL AT JERUSALEM. 447 ^ muleteers were eleven hours on the road, and it was eight o'clock when I reached the Damascus gate. On asking permission to enter there, it was refused ; and, as I afterwards found, we ought not to have expected to be admitted there. Passengers may enter that gate, but not burdens; and I, of course, had my travelling equipage. We were sent round to the Jaffa gate. That also was locked, and the key had been taken to the Governor, the lord mayor, for the night. It had been kept open for me, at the instance of the English consul, beyond the usual hour, when, not arriving, it was concluded I was remain- ing outside at some distance till the morning. The guards were very civil, led me to the guard-room by the wall, gave me a seat by their fire, and offered me a pipe ! There I waited till the arrival of the key was announced ; and then I soon found myself at the family hotel kept by Mr. Me- shuUam, and thus, after a long and fatiguing day's journey, my feet stood within the walls of Jerusalem — that ancient city, of which so many " glorious things have been spoken," and where so many wondrous and glorious deeds have been accomplished. I offered devout thanks- givings to Him whose constant care had watched over me during my journeys hitherto, and by whose kindness I was now permitted to visit the spot which I had so often and so ardently desired to see, — a spot sacred to so many and such varied associations — the spot which God himself chose out of all the localities of the earth, " to put his name there ;" and whither his chosen tribes, for successive ages, went up to worship. As the view from the Jaffa road is said to be one of the least impressive and interesting that can be obtained of the city, I was not sorry it was dark when we came within a moderate distance of it. I wished my first impressions, as they are usually the most permanent, to be of a favour- able and pleasing character. However, Jerusalem cannot be seen from a great distance on that road. As Ave were approaching it, my attendant announced to me that we 448 FIRST WALK ROUND JERUSALEM. were near the city. " Can you see it?" said I. " No," he replied, " but we know its situation." "Can you see any lights ?" " No, sir." I therefore kept my place in the tetrawan, nor did I quit it till I reached the Jaffa gate, and went up to the soldiers' guard-room, as already stated. The first business, the next morning, was to pay off the men who had brought me from Eamlah. The expense was about £,'Z ISs. The next business was to go to the British Consulate, and to pay there, by agreement, the balance due to my camel people, who had brought me from Cairo to Eamlah. This was all done without the least difficulty ; and I found Mr. Finn, the consul, exceed- ingly polite and friendly. I then took a walk round the walls of the city, pro- ceeding from the Jaffa or Bethlehem Gate ; from thence, along by the Damascus Gate, and onward to the mosque of Omar, the acknowledged site of the temple of Solomon, where one is obliged to descend and proceed outside, for some distance, after obtaining at St. Stephen's Gate a peep within the sacred inclosure, just far enough to see the exterior of the mosque itself, and a portion of its beau- tiful lawn, raised platform, and Saracenic arches and colonnades. The mosque is itself a spacious, splendid octangular building ; its dome is magnificent ; and though some embellishments may be gaudj', if closely examined, I thought the efi"ect at the distance certainly imposing. But its main interest lies in its historic and sacred asso- ciations ; there is the threshing-floor of Araunah, on Mount Moriah, where the plague inflicted on Israel was stayed ; there the site of the splendid temple reared by Solomon, and where, at its solemn dedication, Jehovah gave signs of his special presence, and the tokens of his approbation ; there, after its destruction by Nebuchad- nezzar, the second temple was reared, afterwards enlarged and beautified by the munificence of Herod, of memory illustrious, both for heartless cruelty and magnificence ; there the flames of the soldiers of Titus destroyed what JERUSALEM OVERTHROWN. 449 the apostles had lately admired, but the doom of which the Saviour had distinctly pronounced, when he said : " Not one stone should be left vipon another, that should not be thrown down." Nor has the historic interest of the spot ceased with those events ; Saracens and Turks have claimed it and possessed it ; crusaders by myriads have sighed, and fought, and died for it. The original possessors of it, the Jebusites, have long ceased to have an existence ; the Jewish possessors have been for eighteen centuries cast out of it. A small fragment of their nation still clings around it, and weeps over it. Christians visit it with hallowed interest, and long to see it purified from Mohammedan delusions, and consecrated to the s^jiritual Avorship of the one true and living God. The Avalk immediately outside the lofty wall of the mosque (or temple), from St. Stephen's Gate to its south- west corner, led me by the Golden Gate, of Roman archi- tecture, now closed up, and by many of the huge stones of the foundation of the temple, upwards of twenty feet in length, bevelled, and of great antiquilij, reaching, I should think, back to the times of Solomon. Our Lord's prediction of the entire subversion of these buildings, so that not one stone was to be left upon an- otlier, would be, I should apprehend, adequately fulfilled in the destruction of the edifices themselves to the founda- tions, without including the actual foundations themselves, which would, of course, be buried beneath the immense mass of ruins poured over them and around them, in the demolition of the sui;)erstructures which had rested upon them. Facing this portion of the walls, and in the vicinity of the double Golden Gate, are very many Mahonnnedan tombs, having a remurlvably neat appearance of chaste workmanship, and bearing inscriptions in Arabic, nicely cut in relief, and painted. I observed some on which a few flowers had been lately strewn. This walk under the wall of the temple is directly above 450 CHUKCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. the valley of Jehoshaphat, and, therefore, above the line of the brook Kedron, which was quite dry. Eain came on while I was there, and the afternoon looked threatenint:. I therefore turned up by El Aksa, and reached David - Gate with as little delay as possible. This is also called Zion's Gate. From thence, I passed through the Jewi>li quarter — alas ! the most wretched and uninviting quarter of the city — on my way to the hotel. I had walked tlu- whole distance, and felt fatigued. I had passed in sight of Siloam, and crossed the Tyropeon, but was obliged to omit further examination till the morrow. After remaining and resting a short time at the hotel, I set out to visit Dr. Gobat, the English bishop, to whom I had letters of introduction. I found him at home, and exceedingly affable. I had a pleasant half-hour's conver- sation with him, took a cup of coffee, and again returned to my home. On my way I passed the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and, under the guidance of my dragoman, I took the oppor- tunity of going in and visiting some of the spots that ar usually pointed out to pilgrims and travellers. My visit t > these was, I confess, somewhat hasty. I was satisfied ju.-t to have them pointed out. I could not linger over thei;: I could not feel any confidence in their being the veritab. localities. This Church of the Holy Sepulchre is no doul built on the site selected by the Empress Helena as the si' of the crucifixion and its concomitant events. The Lat;: and Greek churches have now for some centuries had po- session of it ; and some portions of the building are allott' to the Coptic, Armenian, Abyssinian, Nestorian, and Syria churches. On entering, the " Stone of Unction," wher. the Lords body was anointed, is shown; and the spot where it was placed in the tomb, and where the stone was rolled away ; then, where the Saviour appeared to Mary Magdalen and his mother. Then you have a long descent by steps to the spot where the cross is said to have betu found, and by which the locality of the crucifixion is iden- LITERARY SOCIETY AT JERUSALEM. 451 titled. And there, too, " Calvary " is pretended to be pointed out, and the base of the rock where the cross was planted; and the rent or fissure in the rock occasioned by the earth- quake at the Saviour's death ! These details, and many of a similar kind, are all too minute to wear the semblance of truth ; and one turns from them with instinctive dissatisfaction. Still, the great events themselves took place, no doubt, not far from these locali- ties. But man has prostituted to mean, paltry, and selfish purposes all these venerable spots ; and the easy credulity of thousands has encouraged it. With many of these, the feeUnr/s have, no doubt, been those of a sincere devotion, mingled, it may be, with an ample shai^e of weakness. To err is human. I would honour their sincerity and devo- tion. Many a penitent sigh, many an ardent prayer, has gone up to heaven, from amidst these localities, with ac- ceptance ; and better, I would say, the easy credulity that believes on too little evidence, than the cold, insolent scep- ticism that proudly refuses to believe, lest its faith should be counted for weakness. The British consul, Mr. Finn, kindly invited me to spend the evening at his house, to meet the literary society, which has been some little time established at Jerusalem, and which promises to render much service in connexion with all questions touching the natural histoiy, antiquities, and social condition of Palestine. A library and a museum are being formed, and are much encouraged by friends in England. I passed two or three hours there very plea- santly, although fewer members than ordinary happened to be present. Mr. Reichards, jun., read a brief paper on the elevations of several of the mountains of Syria. Mr. Finn read part of his journal, during a journey which he had made last October in tiie north. The next morning was cloudy, rainy, and cold. As soon as it began to clear up, I commenced my walks, and pro- ceeded first to the Jaffa Gate, and from thence, outside the wall, to the lower pool of Gihon, now dry, but a remark- 453 POOL OF SILOAM. able locality, and formed merely by the excavation and the filling up, at the two extremities, the space across the valley. The upper pool is to the north-west of this, nearly due west of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. From thence I proceeded to the Hill of Evil Counsel ; and on leaving that, I proceeded by Aceldama to the fountain of En-rogel, which lies east of the valley of Hinnom, and just at the southern point of the valley of Jehoshaphat. From thence, passing near the singular-looking, yet miserable village of Siloam, but on the opposite side of "Kedron," I came to the " Fountain of the Virgin," and then turned again, under the hill of Ophil, to the Pool of Siloam. I descended almost close to the water's edge, and obsei'ved the waters of the pool " going softly," and issuing out to water the " king's gardens," and then ultimately to run into Kedron — " Siloa's brook, that flowed fast by the oracle of God." I counted six pillars on my left hand, as I stood at the entrance under the archway, near the lowest part of the pool. These may have, perhaps, originally supported some roof ; or there may have been porches between them, as mentioned in the case of the Pool of Bethesda. From the Pool of Siloam I proceeded across the Ty- ropeon up to Zion, the city of David, leaving the tomb of David on my left, and from thence, by the Armenian con- vent, to Mr. Meshullam's. Here, after transacting some business. I set out to visit the Jews' place of Availing, where they assemble on a Friday to mourn over the deso- lations of Jerusalem. It is immediately under a part of the western wall of the mosque. From thence I went to visit the remains of the ancient bridge that led from IMoriah to Zion, across the Tyropeon, and which has been well pointed out by Eobinson, and perfectly described in '• Bartlett's Walks round Jerusalem." On the Simday — the only Sunday I spent in the city — I attended service at the English church. It was wholly conducted by Dr. Gobat. It is an appropriate building, and occupies a suitable locality on Mount Zion, not far MOUNT OF OLIVES. 453 from the towers, supposed to be those of David and Hip- picus, near the Jaffa Gate. There might be seventy or eighty persons present. The bishop dehvered an excellent and thoroughly evangelical discourse, from the latter part of Matthew xxv. He read prayers with much solemnity. In the afternoon I thought it would be no violation of the sacredness of the day to visit " Gethsemane," and the " Mount of Olives," and the " village of Bethany." I did so ; and took the grotto of Jeremiah on my way, including also the alleged tomb of Mary, and the reputed tombs of Absalom, Zechariah, &c. The view of Jei'usalem from the summit of Olivet is extremely interesting; and, in the recollection of our Lord's there weeping over it, and delivering his prediction concerning it, it is most affecting. The locality of the Church of the Ascension must be left among the traditions of men. The grotto of Jeremiah is curious, and worth seeing. Bethany has great interest ; though I question whether the tomb or house of Lazarus be really the veritable sites. Enough, that here the Saviour often resorted. One could not ascend the Mount of Olives without many recol- lections that here the Saviour and his disciples often came. The exact spot that bears the rejDute of being " Geth- semane," is inclosed by a high wall ; and as we had not obtained the key from the Latin convent, we could not enter it. There are eight old olive trees there ; but many ancient olive trees are found in the same vicinity. I was satisfied with those exterior to the inclosure. I could not believe tliat the trees within the wall could be those that existed 1800 years ago ; though it is just possible that they may have sprung from the same roots and occupy the same locality. But the Saviour's visits for devotion may have been among those other spots on the mountain's side, and not precisely on the spot now inclosed. I felt that I was near that locality to which he often came, and where " he poured out strong crying and tears to Him that is able to save, and was heard in that he feared." The exact spot 454 VILLAGE OF BKTHAXT. from whence he is said to have ascended is also pointed out ; but not at Bethany, as the sacred historian relates, and which, of course, I believe to have been the case, but just on the summit of the hill. There is a square inclosure, and within that another of small dimensions ; and the veiy stone is there from whence he arose ! Too minute all this to demand one's faith. " He led them out as far as Bethany." From the summit of the Mount. I proceeded to " the village of Bethany," " the village of IMan.-, and ISIartha, and Lazarus." It stands at a convenient distance from Jerusalem. It is a village of humble pretensions and quiet retreat, after the fatigues of a day in Jerusalem. At present there is nothing of interest or importance, except its his- torical associations. Here the Saviour often came with his disciples ; here he proclaimed himself, on the death of Lazarus, to be the "resurrection and the life;" and liere he revealed his power, in raising from the dead his friend Lazarus, who had already been four days in the grave and was turning to coiTuption. The ruins of the house of Lazarus are shown, and also the very tomb from which he was raised up, by that voice which at last shall summon forth from their tombs all that are in their graves. The remains of the house exhibited as having been the residence of Lazarus and his sisters are, no doubt, of great antiquity, and possibly maij be what they are by tradition affimied to be. I felt no certainty in the case, and there- fore no superstitious reverence for the f^pot ; but that this is the village to which so much reference is made by the Evangelists, there can be no question ; and this is of course about the place where the miracle of the resurrection was performed, and which so convinced many, that they be- lieved : and " many also of the Jews went to see Lazarus, whom Jesus had raised from the dead." I set out on horseback the next morning, for Hebron and Bethlehem. On my way I passed out of Jerusalem by the JafiPa Gate, near which were many lepers lifting up HEBRON. 455 their voice and asking alms. A little pecuniary relief was all I c;)uld give them. The " miraculous power of healing is passed," and He who once healed the ten lepers, of whom one only, a Samaritan, returned to give thanks, cannot now be approached as in the days of his flesh, when his feet often trod this locality, and " when with a word he cleansed lepers, healed the sick, and cast out demons." The road to Hebron is, throughout the whole distance, extremely difficult and fatiguing. It leads over a succes- sion of limestone hills, most rugged in their character. One cannot proceed above three or four miles an hour; and to nie the fatigue was the greater, from my having an Arab saddle to ride on, with which I am not familiar. The seat of an Arab saddle is so constructed, as to throw the legs far back, and to bend the knees forward, till I found both ached amazingly. I tried to lengthen the stirrups, but they were already stretched to their utmost extent; and in default of that mode of cure, I was glad, at the end of my journey, to stretch myself. We passed the tomb of Rachel, where Jacob interred his beloved, when they were " now come not far from Bethlehem." Genesis xxxv. 16 — 20. We then came to the " Pools of Solomon," remarkable and stupendous works of antiquity. Besides the exca- vation containing the spring, there are three large pools of equal width, but unequal length. The third and lowest, or farthest from the road to Hebron, is in the finest pre- servation ; and from this the water is convoyed, by an excellent old aqueduct, to Bethlehem. On approaching Hebron — or, as pronounced here, " Chabroii,''' we had to proceed between high stone walls, covered with dry thorns, serving to inclose the vineyards, which exist here on a very large scale. In every vineyard there is a " tower," where, in the grape season, the watch- men keep guard against roving marauders. The larger stones are picked out from the vineyards, and used to form the inclosing walls. The city itself is evidently very 456 HEBRON. ancient. All its buildings have an air of antiquity; but the ^vhole place is extremely dirty — wretchedly dirty. If it were the j)olicy of the Turkish Government to destroy its population, by creating as much unwholesome nuisance as possible, it deserves credit for its success. There was an appearance of activity about the place. I passed several shops and manufactures. They make glass ornaments ; prepare skins for eari-}ing water ; work in silver ; and fol- low other occupations. There are no Christians residing here. Thei-e are about 2000 inhabitants, one-fifth of whom are Jews, and the rest Mahometans. By the Jews uni- versally, it is considered one of the four sacred places which they recognise — Jenisalem, Tiberias, Hebron, and Safed. My dragoman conducted me to the house of one of the Hebrew nation, by whom he appeared to be "well known and much respected. The mother of the family received me very courteously, and assured me I was wel- come. I had brought my own provisions with me ; but sweetmeats and coffee were soon served up by my kind hostess. Shortly after our arrival, a party came in from Mecca, returning from the pilgrimage. There was much shouting and rejoicing; but the voice of joy was quickly turned into mourning. Intelligence was brought by the same parties of the death, on the jom-ney, of some of their friends, whose connexions reside here ; and a large com- pany of women was soon at the ^Mohammedan burial- ground, weeping loudly. The Sheikh presently came to the ground, joined the party, offered prayer, and all then returned home. I was conducted to a part of the city which immediately overlooks the burial-jjlace, where, it is said, repose the ashes of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob. This spot is full of interest in connexion with the history of the patriarch Abram. Gen. xxiii. An ancient name of the city was, it appears from the Mosaic record, " Kiijath Arba," " and the same," it is added, " is Hebron." There Sarah, the wife of Abram, died; and on that occa- sion it was that Abram first obtained actual possession MACHPELAH, MAMRE. 457 of a landed interest in Canaan. He purchased a field of the son of Zohar, Ephron, and paid him four hundred currency shekels of silver, and had the property duly conveyed. This spot was called " Machpelah, over against Mamre; the same is Hebron." Gen. xxiii. 19. The tomb which was pointed out to us as the burial-place of the patriarch, is said to be also that of Sarah. Gen. xxv. 10. A spot is pointed out as Mamre, at a short distance, and a fine old oak also is there, which " tradition " says, is that under which Abram had his tent. I could not hold much conversation Avith my hostess or her family. I could not sjieak Arabic, and my drago- man was not familiar with English. I managed tolerably well with him in all simple matters touching our limited domestic economy ; but beyond that, the perplexity from the confusion of tongues is a complete barrier to the " feast of reason and the flow of soul." It was a comfortable room which I occupied at the house of my Jewish hostess ; it was arched above, so as to allow a dome to the roof; two ancient windows looked into the adjoining olive gardens ; on each side of the room were divans, and a lamp suspended near to the part of the room I occupied, affording me ample olive- oil light as long as I required it. I left Hebron about eight in the morning, and, accom- panied by two guides, went to the spot shown as Mamre, and the famous oak there. It is a large valonidi oak, measuring about twenty-eight feet in circumference at four feet from the ground. Abram, it is stated in Genesis, " sat in his tent-door in the plain of Mamre." The view from the oak to Hebron is over an extensive plain. It is now cultivated and covered with vineyards. Whether this, or a plain south of Hebron, is the veritable Mamre, I know not ; but this, I think, from the contiguity of the tomb, is probably the true site. I returned to Solomon's Pools, and then, leaving the direct road to Jerusalem on my left, went towards Bethle 458 BETHLEHEM. hem. I soon came m sight of the fertile valley at the foot of the pools. It is now occupied, and cultivated and ornamented by Mr. Meshullam. He has the spot as a farm, and seems to be turning it to good account. It is the best cultivated of any spot which I have seen since I left Cairo. It is here that Solomon made his " pools," and his " hanging-gardens," and planted his trees, as described by himself. Eccl. ii. 4 — 6. I visited " Bethlehem," the city where the shepherds annoimced the wonderful intelligence which angels had conveyed to them, — the advent of the Prince of Peace. The town is like the other towns of Palestine ; there are many ancient buildings, and many ruins ; much poverty, and great discomfort. I did not remain long. I visited, of course, the Cburch of the Nativity, and saw the stone on which the Saviour was born, and the crib in which he was placed ! Tradition, of course, has been busy in a spot such as Bethlehem. Pilgrims would naturally wish to see the exact, spot where the Saviour was born. The great fact of his becoming incarnate for us men, and for our salva- tion, is not enough. The minutest details are demanded, and the demand is readily complied with. A church has been built, said to be over the very locality of the birth ; and a kind of altar, adorned with lamps, and screens, and silks, is exhibited, with a flat stone enriched with mosaic work, as the precise and identical spot where the Virgin Mary became the happy mother of the promised Saviour. At a little distance from this, lower down on the right, is a representation of a cross or cradle, adorned with lamps also, as the veritable place in the manger in which he was laid ; and yet, marvellous to tell, all this is far beneath the surface, and, so far as I could judge, hewn out of the rock — whereas there can be little doubt, that the meaning of the Scripture history is, that the whole transaction took place in a khan, or resting place for travellers, which is always on the surface of the ground, JOURNEY TO JERICHO. 459 and rather on elevated spots than heneath them. All this deception, in pretending to point out the exact locality of such marvellous events, is to me offensive and annoying. It seems like making merchandise, by i)riest- craft, of holy things, and falls under the censure implied in the Saviour's language : " Take these things hence, and make not my Father's house a house of merchan- dise." On reaching home, I formed a plan to visit the Dead Sea the next day, if the weather would permit, and accord- ingly I set out, accompanied by Colonel Willoughby, of Brooklyn, New York, to Jericho. We had some hesita- tion as to the weather. It rained slightly, and threatened rather more. Still, as our time was short in Jerusalem, we resolved on venturing. We engaged proper attend- ants. " Security" is made sure by a payment. The time for attacks and robberies has not long ceased. The road to Jericho has not long lost its unenviable character. Down to a very recent period, it has been dangerous to travel there, lest a man should " fall among thieves, and be stripped, robbed, and wounded." But arrangements are now made in Jerusalem, with the Sheikhs of that part of the country, and payment being made, they guarantee the traveller's safety. The charge to me was 24s. We formed a party, amounting to ten, on horse- back. A Russian General formed one of our number, who seemed going on pilgrimage to Jordan, to bathe there, as a devout member of the Greek Church. We could hold no conversation with him, as he could speak only Russian and German. Wc paid him attentions, and found him pleasant, gentlemanly, and very exact in his devotions. Much of our road was over rocks, and among ravines, where it was impossible to proceed with much rai)idity. Some of tlie gorges were remarkably abrupt and awful, forming good scenes for the pencil of an artist. We reached our village about four o'clock, and found a wel- 460 ANCIENT JERTCHO. come in an Arab hut, of a very humble and homely character, but we preferred it to our tents, on account of the dampness of the ground, and the threatening rains. Ancient Jericho is pointed out at some little distance, and the ruins of a town are there. Om- resting place was probably where Gilgal stood, and the other site may be that which witnessed the Divine interference on behalf of the favoured tribes, when they crossed the Jordan, and compassed that cit}' seven days. The whole locality is full of interest. Yonder, across the Jordan, must have been the place where the tribes assembled at the close of their forty years' wandering and training ; there Joshua had ex- horted and instructed them ; not far off, Moses had died ; there they crossed the river, whose waters fled astonished at a presence and a jjower moi'e than human ; the hosts crossed and trod the land of promise ; the city of Jericho was taken, and the hearts of all the kings of the country fainted when they heard the intelligence. We retired to rest at an early hour ; yet but little rest could be obtained, fi'om the incessant barking of the dogs. Colonel Willoughby offered to pay the master of the house the value of his dog, if he would shoot him to give us a little quietness. He said it was impossible. He would not kill the dog for a thousand piastres, (£10). He was the guard of his flock, and of his house by night. But to put the matter to rest, the dog was brought into the house ; and said my guide, defying all rules about gender, "He has a little son there and wants to be with him ;" and so it proved ; the poor animal had puppies in a corner of the habitation, and the maternal feelings were made easy, as soon as the parties embraced each other. Early next morning we set out for the Jordan, seven miles distant. We were nearly two hours reaching it. The road was on a descent from the higher ground to a plain, at the termination of which we found ourselves on the banks of the far-famed sti-eam. It was flowing along THK JORDAN. 461 as a noble torrent. The late rains had contributed their share to its fulness, and it was now deep. I felt no incli- nation to bathe in it. It was too cold to do so for pleasure, and I had no superstitious belief in its efficacy, morally or emblematically, to induce me to plunge into its rapid stream. Our Russian friend leisurely undressed himself on the bank, went through his devotional exercises, and then walked down into the stream ; where, finding it rather difficult and dangerous, he prudently called his Arab at- tendant, a powerful man, to accompany him, and, taking him by the hand, he went forward to a sufficient depth — plunged himself three times beneath the flood, then re- turned leisurely — reascended the bank, dressed, performed his exercises, and returned home. We rode rapidly forward on account of the cold and rain, and did not see the General again. I confess I felt respect for the good man ; he seemed perfectly sincere and devout, and I dare say was acting up to the light he possessed, and the religious instruction he had received. The banks of the Jordan are covered Avith vegetation. The time of my being there was not the season for flowers, and therefore I saw none. Oleanders and willows, and olives and other shrubs, there were. In the summer season, the foliage must be exceedingly rich and beautiful. This is the far-famed river that flows doAvn from the neighbourhood of Csesarea Philippi, (now Baneas), to the Dead Sea, which itself gives name to the plain or valley, " the plain of Jordan," and which plain is usually estimated at about fifteen miles in width, having the mountains of Moab on the east, and the plains and mountains of Judea on the west. But there is a painful dreariness over all the scene. It must have been far othei-wise when occupied by the thousands of its ancient iidiabitants, the favoured tribes of the seed of Abraham, and when diligently culti- vated by their industrious hands, and when receiving blessings from above ; but now it is stripped of its in- habitants, and the land mourneth and languisheth. " The 462 THE DEAD SEA. hand of the Lord is stretched out against it, and his anger is not yet turned away." The people are few in number ; the cultivation is poor and rude in the extreme ; there is latent fertility in the soil, but industry, protection, and encouragement are wanting — and the time of Zion's re- demption is yet to come. From the Jordan we proceeded rapidly to the northern extremitv of the Dead Sea. We remained there but a very short time, and then hastened to Nabi Moyse. "We tasted the water of the lake, and found it extremely acrid. Bathing in it was out of the question ; the weather was far too cold, rainy, and boisterous. Heavy clouds were coming up from the south-east, and gave a character of awful gloom to the spot. Perhaps such weather is more in character with the history of the locality. Remembering tlie fate of Sodom, GomoiTah, and the other cities of the plain, one can hardly fancy that a bi-ight sunshiny day- would be in harmony Avith the spot. On that history, concerning the plain that Lot chose — the warning given — the deliverance of Lot — the destruction of his wife — the ruin of the cities — the geological changes, — on these and many other points, I refer to Lynch, Robinson, Wilson, Russell, and a host of valuable writers besides. We reached Nabi Moyse about two o'clock. This is said to be the tomb of Moses. I marvel at the insolence of men in imposing on human credulity, and at the weakness of credulity, to be so imposed on. The tomb of Moses I when Scripture assures us, he was so buried, " that no man knew of his sepulchre." God himself interposing, as it were by a miracle, to conceal the place of his interment, lest the Jewish leader should become an occasion of sin, as an object of idolatrous worship. God is jealous of his honour. At any rate, the resting place of the ashes of Moses must no doubt have been in the east, and not the west of Jordan, — somewhere in the mountains of Abarim, overlooking the plains of Jericho, but certainly not here, on the west side, so far in the countiy, too, as Nabi Moyse. CISTERN'S IX JERUSALEM. 463 One very curious and interesting object which I visited in Jerusalem, was an immense cistern or reservoir, at a great depth under ground, not far from the Church of the Se- pulchre and the Abyssinian convent. We descended forty footsteps to the surface of the water. Its extent and depth could not be ascertained, but there seemed a supply ade- quate to the demands of the city ; and this, in connexion with other reservoirs of a similar nature, though not so large, may account for the fact, that, in the history of the various sieges to which Jerusalem has been exposed, the city had not suffered from a lack of water; a lack, which the be- siegers in some cases have sutfei-ed most painfully. Great labour must have been bestowed on the masonry of this reservoir, in the hewing out of the excavation itself, and the descent to it by steps, and the hand-balustrading, and the cementing the walls to the height to which the water inight at times rise. Having been to see the English Hospital, the Diocesan School, and other objects of interest, I completed my ar rangements for leaving Jerusalem on my way to Beyrat, as I found there was no probability of finding any vessel at Jaffa that would suit my purpose. My dragoman who accompanied me from Cairo, I agreed with to take me on this further i^ortion of my journey, and to bring me to Beyrut by way of Damascus in a given number of days, so as to be in lime for a steamer which I then expected to find on the coast. Leaving Jerusalem, I looked round again and again in every direction, to get the most complete picture of it I could, and to have the whole as indelibly impressed on my mind as possible. I lamented the brevity of my visit. I had not been able to examine all so carefully as I wished ; but I was thankful to have seen Jerusalem and other localities so far as I had done. I would willingly have remained two or three weeks longer, could I have commanded the leisure. There was much yet to be seen, and more to examine ; but 1 felt that 464 LEAVING JERCS^U^EM. I should hereafter read works on Jerusalem and the Holy Land with more interest and more intelligence than before, understand more vividly many passages of Scripture, and perhaps be able to interest and profit others by appropriate illustrations. Upon the whole, I think the ideas I had formed of Jerusalem and the country, prior to my visit, were tolerably correct. Hence, lam not conscious of experiencing any strong feelings of surprise or disappointment. Neither have I felt much enthusiasm enkindled, — certainly not enough to constitute me a hermit, to go forth through Europe to try to stir up a crusade to rescue the Holy City and Sepulchre from the hands of infidels. But I see enough to make me increasingly thankful for the kind Providence that has given and secured a liberal government to my OAvn countiy, to make me jealous to guard its liberties, so far as may lie within my power or influence, and to make me anxious that Bi'itain should use by all fair and legitimate means its influence in promoting liberality in other govern- ments. For want of this, — I mean, for want of just, wise. and benevolent governments, Egypt and Syria are what they are, and must remain so, — unless the governments respectively improve. And so far as Great Britain has influence with them, I think it should faithfully and ■vigor- ously employ it, as a sacred trust in Providence for the welfare of the people. I do not see how even Christianity can elevate these people without a change in the policy of the government, just because it cannot be made to bear at all extensively upon the people, while the stern, unrighteous, savage law of Mohammedanism prevails, that condemns to death the Mussulman who forsakes and changes his religion. I confess, I have increased greatly in my abhon-ence of that religion in its social aspects. It degi'ades woman im- measurably below her just position. It makes her com- pletely the mere mechanical creature of man's inferior passions. He may caress her and guai'd her in her harem, dress her, bedizen her, lavish gold, pearls, and jewels, — it is just to subordinate her altogether to himself, and to aid in FERTILITY OF THE SOIL. 465 gratifying his own sensuality. No education, no liberty, no mind, no independence for woman in Mohammedanism ! What is to be done, then, for Mohammedan nations? The subject is worthy of a Christian essay — a prize essay, exhibiting the countries, statistics, conditions, prospects of Mohammedan nations, suggestions for modes of action, and all that can bear legitimately on the subject. The destinies of Palestine I touch not. The land I see clearly can sustain a vastly augmented population, even by its present imperfect mode of agriculture. How much more were the modern improveaients of chemistry, drainage, manure, change of crop and seed, &c., introduced ! I left Jerusalem by the Damascus gate, and took a linger- ing farewell of that ancient city which I may never expect to revisit, but the reminiscences of which will ever be precious to my heart. I may no more see the " mountains that are round about Jerusalem," — no more gaze on the city once so "compact together;" but if I forget Jerusalem, my right hand must forget its cunning, and my tongue cleave to the roof of my mouth. My prayer is, that the Lord may soon " turn again the captivity of his people," and that the salva- tion of Israel may come out of Zion. The day proved remarkably fine ; it was cold, but clear, dry, and invigorating. The appearance of the country north of Jerusalem resembles that to the south. It is all hilly, yet the hill sides are all cultivated by means of ter- races formed on the horizontal or slightly angular forma- tion itself. These terraces give a character to tlie scenery. Where all seems sterile, there is fertility. I would say of these limestone hills, as of the sands along my route from Cairo to Palestine, they seem saturated ivitli fertiiitij. They are so now, under all the disadvantages of tlie present social state of the country, and the manifest fulfilment of pro- phecy. Under auspicious circumstances, the Divine favour, good secular government, and the industry of tlie inliabit- ants, the land would yet assuredly become all^that Moses and the prophets have said of it. We reached Deeri, the H H 466 SHIT,OH — SYCHAR. Beerotli of the Old Testament, in the afternoon. Nume- rous camels, laden with oil, were continually following us. It is taken to Jerusalem, where it is in large demand for the manufacture of soap. The soda is obtained from the marine plants abounding in the region of the Dead Sea. This is the principal manufacture in Jerusalem. The soap is of a coarse kind, and is sold in small cakes, stamped with some picture of a church or other public building. We passed in sight of the ruins of Beyteem — Bethel — and not far distant another village — Anata — Anathoth, and reached, before sunset, Ain Yabrood, where we pitched our tent in a patch of ground outside the village, amidst some grumbling on the part of its owner — his method of asking for payment, which, of course, it was our intention to give him. We continued our journey towards Nablous, the Shechem of the Old Testament, and the Sychar of the New, The country here is too cold for vines, but it seems favour- able for olives and wheat. We passed, at a little distance. Silom — Silon. "the city of the Silonite," that is Shiloh, where Samuel ministered ; where Eli lived and died, and where the Ark was so long kept : a place full of scriptural interest, but now exposed to the ancient reproach, — " Go now and see what I have done to Shiloh, for the wicked- ness of my people." On approaching Nablous — Sychar, we met a large party of pilgrims just returning from ]\Iecca, and who were being met by their friends with many congratulations and de- monstrations of joy. I was anxious to see the "Well, near to the parcel of ground that Jacob gave to his son Joseph," and where the Saviour held his ever memorable conversation with "the woman of Samaria." Not meeting it so soon as I expected, and finding I was getting close to the town, I asked ray guide where it was, and he assured me it was at the other end of the town. This puzzled me, as I thought we had JEWS AND SAMAPJTANS. 467 come by the direct I'oad from Jerusalem. However, I found there was another direct road — that, in fact, the road diverges, on approaching the town, into two parts ; and so I had to reserve for the morrow my visit to the WelL The situation of this town is excellent. It has in its immediate vicinity extensive olive grounds ; in fact, it stands in the centre of plantations. The town itself is not visible, on account of the trees, till you are close upon it. I found a residence for the night at the house of a respect- able Greek Christian, one of a new body of that church, or rather of a party separating from it and calling them- selves Protestant Greek Christians. They hold meetings among themselves for reading the Scriptures and prayer. They amount to about thirty in the town. There are 400 members of the Greek Church, and it is stated, '24,000 Mohammedans, and only 40 Jews. There are some Sama- ritans, but as of old, " the Jews and Samaritans have no friendly intercourse;" "they do not wish to see each other," said my dragoman. There are Greek Protestants in several other towns, — such as Nazareth and Tiberias. In the course of the evening, I had some conversation with some of these Greek Christians, though very im- perfectly, owing to my ignorance of the Arabic, and the imperfect acquaintance my dragoman had with the English. They proposed to me some questions respecting ordina- tion and the power of the priesthood to forgive sin. It was perplexing not to be able to converse with them freely and fluently. I pressed on them the importance of spirit- ual worship, taking as my motto, our Lord's conversation with the woman of Samaria, — " God is a Spirit, and they that worship him must worship him in spirit and in truth." I went this morning to see the Samaritan synagogue, and on my way was shown a large room or house, said to be the residence occupied by Jacob when he heard of the death of Joseph, as related by his brethren who had sold him, and where the fond fiitlier wejit so bitterly. There is an ancient inscription on a stone in the wall of the syna- 408 EBAL AND GEPJZIM. gogue, said to be as ancient as the building. I wished I could have taken a copy of it. I named it afterwards to Mr. Nicolayson, and begged him to endeavour to procure it. There is a very ancient copy of the Samaritan Pentateuch in the synagogue, w^hich the rabbi showed me, after some little coy reserve. Its age is not known. One of the most delightful and refreshing things to be seen in Nablous, is the abundant supply of water. It rolls through many of the streets in large streams, and might be made to keep the place as clean as Eegent-street itself, instead of leaving it, as it actually is, dirty as the dirtiest part of the east of London in November weather. A fine A'iew is obtained of the two moimtains, Ebal and Gerizim, from the court of the Samaritan synagogue. These mountains of " blessing " and " cursing " run pa- rallel to each other, north and south — Ebal on the north, and Gerizim on the south. Sychar is built in the valley between them. See Deut. xi. ^9 ; and xxvii. 11 — 13. There stands a place of worshiji on Gerizim still. The Samaritans have an annual procession there for religious worship. To this mountain the Samaritan Avoman referred in conversation Avith the Saviour at the well. The old rabbi told me there were Samaritans at Paris, and that they had a synagogue there. Nablous seems a busy place for a Syrian town ; it has an air of industry about it that is gra- tifying. j\Iany of the people are employed in the manu- facture of cotton cloth. We started for Jenin about eight o'clock, and proceeded first to the icell of Samaria. The upper part is choked up. but by going down a little distance, and removing a stone that covers the mouth of the well, it is still found there, and is deep. There is a good deal of masonry near the well, indicating some buildings in former times. This is all on the road from Jerusalem in coming to Sychar, and near to the spot where that road winds round the foot of Gerizim, in turning up the valley towards Sychar. It was impossible to visit the spot — still retaining the SAMAUIA. 469 ancient name of Bir Jacoob, the "well of Jacob" — ^Yithout thinking much of the visit, and scenes and conversations so beautifully and grapliically described by John, chapter iv. Near this spot is shown Joseph's tomb, probably the real site of the interment of Jacob's beloved son. See Joshua xxiv. 32. For a long distance our route continued amidst cul- tivated land, and where figs and olives abounded. Our direct course was to Sehaste, the ancient Samaria, and chief city of the kings of Israel, after the revolt of the ten tribes under Rehoboam. It is now a poor village, occupied by a few of the Fellahin ; but it was once great and noble. It had splendid buildings and a large popu- lation ; but it is overthrown, and presents a scene of dreariness and desolation, just according to the prophecy of Micah L 1 — 6. Lord Lindsay says, " he was never so forcibl}^ struck with tlie fulfilment of prophecy, as when walking over the hill of Samaria." The two things that chiefly attracted my notice were, the remains of an old church, of considerable architec- tural beauty, some pillars, cornices, and ])art of the dome of which yet remain tolerably perfect ; and some pillars, standing in the form of colonnades, forming part of the two sides of a quadrangle. These are supposed to be the work of Herod, to whom the country was indebted for many magnificent works. We passed on to Jenin, and found accommodation in a native house, which was empty, and swept, but not " gar- nished;" and left by the owner entirely for my accom- modation, and it answered its purpose perfectly well. The Rev. Mr. Nicolayson and his daughter were there, on their way back to Jerusalem, from a visit to the north. They had just come from Nazareth. I took tea with them, and much enjoyed the hour's intercourse I had in their society. Mr. Nicolayson is very familiar with the country. ft is twenty-five years since he first came to Jerusalem, and he has been resident there nearly twenty years, in connexion 470 PLAIN OF ESDRAELOy. ■with the London Society for promoting Christianity among the Jews. On our way to Jenin, we had some fine views of the Mediterranean, stretching along the coast on the west, and a portion of the famous vale of Sharon. In all this part of the country are rich valleys, and magnificent plains, with fine soil, capahle of sustaining a very large and wealthy agricultural iio^julation. After taking a view in the morning, from an eminence in the village, in company with Mr. Nicolayson, of many surrounding objects, — namely Carmel, stretching out to the sea, the neighbourhood of Acre, and the valley of Sharon, the great plains of Esdraelon, and the mountains of Gilboa and Galilee, — I commenced my journey to the city where the Saviour w^as brought up : but where, in- dignantly rejected, because he was of mean origin, "he could not do many mighty works." Their own incredulity, amidst abounding evidence, deprived them of blessings they might else so richly have enjoyed. It was a most lovely morning, and my route now lay across the splendid valley of Jezreel, the plain of Esdra- elon, or Megiddo — for it takes various names. One advan- tage connected with our slow travelling with mules is. that it is possible to read while riding. I did so that morning. I read the 35th chapter of the 2nd Chronicles, as recording events that transpired between 2000 and 2500 years ago in this plain ; and Zechariah xii., as relat- ' ing to events that perhaps are yet future. Here, perhaps, may be the scene of some great events in the world's future history, at present wrapped up in the mysterious predictions of the great battle of Ai-mageddon. It is a splendid plain. Tabor comes into view, and Jebel-es- Sheikh, the Hernion of Scripture, with its glorious and snow-capped summit. On reaching Nazareth, we went direct to the convent of the Annunciation. It belongs to the Franciscan friars. It is newly built — of course perfectly clean. It is exceedingly . NAZARETH. 471 comfortable. The reception is most courteous, and the attentions kind. No charge is made ; some little compen- sation is expected, but in all this matter there is the greatest hospitality. I had my own provisions, else, as my visit was during the "fast" preceding Christmas, my fare must have been very slender. The good father who at- tended on me was fasting daily till night, and then he confessed he felt rather hungry. Nothing could induce him to touch a morsel, not even a crumb of bread. I mentioned to him, that there are many Protestants who " fast," but yet take a little morsel to assuage the gnawings of appetite, so that the mind may be less interrupted by the cravings of the body, and thus serve God the better. I thought he might quietly assent to this, as a good idea ; but he seemed awfully shocked, hung down his head, and re- mained silent. He took me to see the chapel of the Annunciation, where there is much beauty and decoration. Many lights were burning, and two or three more were kindled on my entrance ; and my guide himself devoutly knelt. Then there are shown the very room where Mary sat, when the angel Gabriel announced to her that she was to be the mother of the Saviour, and the spot where Gabriel stood, when he announced the message ; and a vei-y re- markable pillar, in two parts — the upper i)art miracu- lously sustained, " suspended " without support, in the air, and the lower part of the shaft in its proper place. I remarked to the friars who were pointing out these things, that the upper part was granite, and the lower marble ! on which, they said something to each otlier in Italian, that I did not understand, and so we came away. They did not show me, as they usually do to travellers, the exact spot where Joseph worked at his trade ; but it is under the same roof. My scepticism about the marvellous pillars made them, 1 imagine, less inclined to show mo other wonders. I had a quiet evening in the large salle-ii-manger. 472 MOUNT TABOR. Being the only traveller there, I had no interruption, and, after enjoying a good night's rest, I -was prepared to start for Tahor and Tibei'ias. I took a walk round the back of the town, and over the hill that surrounds that portion of it, from which an ex- cellent view is obtained of the town and vicinity. The exact spot from whence the ancient inhabitants sought to pi'ecipitate the Saviour, when enraged against him and his doctrine, is not known. One site is exhibited, I believe, two miles off, but that cannot have been the spot, as it was, says the Evangelist, " on the brow of the hill where the city was built ;" and there is no reason to believe that the site of the city has been changed. There are sufficient places near the city now, at that part of it along which I walked, where any one, being rudely pushed down, would suffer much injury, even though the fall might not be fatal. From Nazareth it was my intention to go direct to Tabor, but by some little mistake my guides conducted me first to Kefr Cana, "unbelieving" Cana — a name given no doubt in contempt of the Christians by the " Faithful "' or belie^'ing Mussulmans. The very stigma implies that there had been something of remarkable ^r/<'Z//?/ there. We turned off from this village to Tabor. It is a splendid mountain, rising boldly in the midst of the plain in a semicircular form, though gi-eater in the length, apparently, than in the breadth. There is much cultivation on many portions of the side which we ascended, consisting of grain and tobacco. Oaks are also abundant, and other shrubs, and in summer season there are flowers. Crocuses were the only flowers we saw in blossom. The view is fine from the ascent, and must be very commanding from the summit. I regret I could not manage to reach the summit, as I felt I must reach Tiberias that evening, and I prefeiTed giving my time to the certainties of that locality, to the uncertainties attaching to the traditional interest of Tabor. Still, I LAKE OF TIBERIAS. 473 cannot say I visited this beautiful mountain without much interest ; I would on no account have missed seeing it, and seeing as much of it as I did ; and supposing it to have been the real scene of the Transfiguration, perhaps I ascended quite as high as the elevation on which that remarkable transaction occurred. I am not aware of any reason for supposing that it took place on the summit. The Evangelist says, "Jesus led his three favoured dis- diples into a high mountain apart." That describes a mountain of great elevation, such as Tabor is, but does not of necessity imply that he led them to its summit, any more than his going to the Mount of Olives to pray supposes that he went to its summit for the purpose. Gethsemane is shown at the foot of the mountain. But the Old Testament notices of Tabor have their interest, and the Psalmist's allusion to it also ; " Tabor and Hermon shall rejoice in thy name." All along this road there is a fine view of Hermon, or, as it is now called, Jebel es Sheikh, " a sheikh or prince of a mountain," a title of honour which it seems well entitled to. We had passed in our way the ruins of a village called Cana, not now inhabited, but said to be the ancient Cnna, where the water was converted into wine. We left it at some little distance before reaching Kefr Cana. Every now and then we got a view of the Lake of Tibe- rias, and, on approaching it, the view certainly was fine. The lake was perfectly tranquil, embosomed amidst the surrounding hills — not a breatli ruffled its waters. It seemed as though nothing could lash such " eqtianimity " into a rage — as though nature couUl not afford to permit anything, capable at one time of such perfect placidity, to exhibit fury and passion at another. But there are anomalies in the physical as well as the moral world — as in the histoiy of the Dead Sea. The morning rose with smiles " as Lot entered Zoar; " but the heavens presently })Oured down sulphureous fires on the other cities of the verdant plain ; and, ere that sun had sunk in the western 474 TIBEl'.IAS. sky, the heavens and the earth had warred against these devoted cities, and the smoke from their huniiug ascended as from a vast furnace. We soon found ourselves winding through the few and sordid-looking streets of Tiberias ; and found a comfort- able residence at the house of a Mr. Wiseman, [jwt the car- dinal, but) a Jew from Austria. Travellers generally put up at his house as a temporary hotel, and its accommo- dations are acceptable. I walked through the town and its miserable bazaar. I saw no boat on the lake, and it is only occasionally the men obtain fish there. All the coun- try indicates ancient volcanic action — all consists of basalt, from the summit of the hill to the base. In the morning I went to the hot baths. The old dila- pidated building where they were formerly used, is left to fall to mins. A new and commodious bath was built by Ibrahim Pasha. Most of his works in this country have been destroyed by the Turkish Government, since Ibrahim withdrew from the country ; but baths were so much to their own taste, that they have left them standing. Tiberias has always been a celebrated place among the Jews, and is still deemed one of their four sacred places. The other three are Jerusalem, Safed, and Hebron. The dresses here are yerj various among the Jews, diifering according to the costume of the country from whence they come. It is still a place of some resort for studious Jews from different parts of the world ; for these descendants of the patriarchs are still a literary and studious people. It would be of some interest to know how many of the pro- fessors of the German universities are Jews, and how many of these have become Eationalists. I fear few of them are expecting a Messiah, in the sense of their own prophets. Soon after leaving the city, we came to the ruinous and l^oor village of Mejdala, thought to be the ancient Magdala, whence Mary of Magdalene derived her name. Blackberry- bushes abound here, and the wild cyclamen flower. The village is inhabited, but on a very small scale. There is THORNS AND THISTLES. 475 also a little cultivation of tlie soil ; but all is poverty and destitution. Of Chorazin and Bethsaida I could hear no- thing. Against them a sentence was jjronounced eighteen centuries ago : " And though heaven and earth pass away. His word" (who pronounced it) " fails not." We passed the ruins of Tel Ouni at a little distance, which are thought to be those of Capernaum — Capernaum, once exalted to heaven, and now cast down to Hades, so that no man can say with certainty even where the city stood. As it was my intention to visit Damascus, on my way to Beyrut, I now kept bearing to the north, towards the sources of the Jordan, and did not therefore proceed to the coast to visit Carmel, Tyre, or Sidon. The grandest object in all this part of the route was Mount Hermon. It increased in grandeur as we ad- vanced towards it. It rises 11,000 feet above the level of the sea, and is capped with snow many hundred feet from its summit. On losing sight of the Lake of Tiberias, we soon came in view of another, a much smaller lake, El Hoole, anciently the waters of Merom. These waters fall by a narrow stream into the Sea of Galilee. This smaller lake is supplied from the sources of the Jordan, and which are not very far distant from it. We pitched our tent in the afternoon in an open piece of ground at Melahy, a small village, not capable of aflbrd- ing us any accommodation worth accepting. The nights were now cold, and the people with me were anxious to be in huts, instead of tents, whenever it was practicable. I was struck witli the universal abundance of thorns and thistles over all this part of the countiy, and in fact over other parts of the country also ; and it has frequently and vividly brought to my recollection the ancient i)re(liction of Isaiah : " Thorns also and thistles shall come up on the land of my people, until the Spirit be poured out from on high." The threatening is most literally accomplished. Oh for the speedy coming of the auspicious period, when 476 WOMEN CARRYING BURDENS. the Spirit shall be poured out in the liberal and effective sense intended ; and when, with the moral and spiritual changes produced, the physical aspects of nature shall also be changed, and the thorn and thistle no more infest the ground ! The present extensive continuance of the curse seemed to me to imply, that the Spirit was not yet poured out in the sense intended by the prophecy. With this expectation of the pouring out of the Spirit on the people of the land, may perhaps be connected the prediction of Zechariah, " I v,'ill pour out upon the house of David and inhabitants of Jerusalem the Spirit of grace and sup- plication ; " and with that stand connected the repentance and restoration of Israel. Geologically, all this portion of the countiy consists or basalt, limestone, and marble ; — botanically, it consists of thistles, fennel, and ci'ocuses. There are scarcely any trees. Wood is brought from a distance, and is very dear. I met four women carrying heavy burdens of it, and occa- sionally asses laden with it. I pitied the women ; it is a work too hard for them, and man is a brute to force it on them. No wonder many of the women, so oppressed, have coarse and repulsive features. I say not this to depreciate so noble a portion of the Creator's workmanship, but to condemn man's oppressive crtielty, for such usage has de- prived woman of nearly all that is feminine in appearance, gentle in manner, and lovely in spirit. I apply the remark to Mohammedanism among the lower classes, and to much of heathenism everj'where. We proceeded next towards " Baneas,"' the ancient Cesarea Philippi, which we intended making our halting place for the night. The plain of El Ghor, over which we passed, is well watered. There we found a long straggling village of Bedouin Arabs, dwelling as usual in tents, some of which were made of rushes, and others of skins. They were perfectly black, " black as the tents of Kedar." There appeared to be numerous families residing there. The cattle are finer than I had before seen in Palestine. The RUINS OF BANEAS. 477 plain "whicli we crossed was monotonous in the extreme : not a single flower was peeping forth ; no birds were carol- ling in the sky ; no land shells were to be found in that basaltic soil. The only sound on the plains was that of the bells attached to the necks of our mules, till, on approach- ing a village, the children's cheerful shouts became audi- ble ; and the watch-dog's bark was the next welcome note of civilization. The lofty castle, or rather extensive ruins of the castle of Baneas, now came in sight, at about seven or eight miles distance. The village of Baneas is poor and limited. Near the town are some fine streams that belong to the sources of the Jordan, gushing out from beneath a lime- stone rock ; but cannot be the very sources themselves, for there are streams higher up, that fall into the river below this locality. There are many streams flowing from Hermon and Baneas which bear respectively local names. Perhaps the Jordan may properly be considered as com- mencing where several of those streams unite, a few miles south-west of Baneas. • The silk-worm is cultivated here with much care. There are 1 tooths in the village near the houses of the people where they keep the worm. The mulberry-tree is exten- sively cultivated for the purpose. We j^ass by large plan- tations of it. Some of the trees are old. The young shoots or Ijranches are cut off' every year as our willows in Eng- land. I observed also many line plantations of young mulberry-trees. All this speaks well for the industry of the inhabitants. In fact, 1 did not meet with many signs of idleness on my route. But there is, witli all this, every appearance of poverty and discomfort, as though the peo- j)le either did not know how to enjoy what they possess, or, Vvhich I suppose is really the case, arc afraid to ap])car to possess wealth, lest it should awaken cupidity and oj)- pre.«sion on the part of their i ulcrs. Leaving Baneas, and wending our way across the hills, and ascending to high ground, we had fine views of all the 478 DRUSES DAMASCUS. surrounding country. A Druse woman passed us, having on her forehead, agi-eeably to the custom of the country, a projecting horn, and from which a veil descended that covered her face. This was the first which I had seen. It had a most singular and by no means a graceful appear- ance. It is made of silver or gold, for those who can afford the precious metals ; of tin or copper for the poorer classes. It is hollow and conical. It is fixed to a small pad, and is fastened to the forehead by bands. It would be sadly in the -way if worn in our omnibuses ! It is possible that some passages in the Psalms may allude to this singular and ancient custom. The Druses inhabit some of the fastnesses of Lebanon. Their religious tenets are shrouded in mystery. They seem to believe in the Unity of God and in the transmi- gration of souls ; but think that in some way Adam came to possess the Godhead, and that long afterwards the founder of their system, Caliph Hakem did the same ! After resting for a night at the Mohammedan village of Kafr Howa, and another night at Artoos, where there is a khan, and over the gateway a couple of rooms for the ac- commodation of travellers, I set out for Damascus. The long line of dark foliage of the gardens and plantations which surround Damascus, had been in sight nearly the whole of the previous day, together Avith some white buildings just peeping out among them. But in the approach to Damascus from the south, which was my line of road, there was no striking view of the city. In fact, it is not seen until tlie traveller is almost close upon it, being so entirely surrounded by trees. After about two hours and a half's I'ide from Artoos, we came to the exterior portion of the gardens. It occupied fully half an hour more before we passed through them, and nearly the same time in reaching the hotel, (Hotel de Palmyra), which is kept by a Greek, and is the only one in Damascus to which Europeans resort. My long ride from the gate by which I entered, gave me an opportunity of seeing this DAMASCUS. 479 most ancient city. Though it has some things in common with Cairo and Jerusalem, it has its own character. It was a noble street as to width, through which I passed on entering the town, yet the houses and shops have a miserable appearance on the outside. Nearly all the buildings are plastered with a light brown coloured mor- tar. The exterior affords little indication of wealth or comfort. But there is great animation, a great show of industry all over the place ; men, women, and children are all busy. The shops are full of goods, and manufactories seem all brisk. My first object was to get a bath — a thoroughly good Turkish bath. This I did, and found it exceedingly refreshing after my long journey. I found it preferable to those of Cairo. At Jerusalem there was no bath fit to go into ; all there are extremely dirty. ■ Damascus is most amply supplied with water. I do not wonder that Naaman was so proud of the rivers of his city. The Barada is supposed to be the Pharpar of Scripture. It is uncertain what stream now exists that was called the Abana. My attention was next directed to the bazaars. I engaged a cicerone, a fine old Jew, Ibrahim Soliman, who is well recommended by former travellers for intelli- gence and civility. I accompanied him through several bazaars, and through the lanes running between the gardens; Avent to see the fine old arch or gate near the mosque, then took a peep into the court of the mosque, as far as is per- mitted — St. Thomas's gate, and then, having reached outside the walls, my guide led me up, not a hill, for there is none near Damascus, but a mound or heap of rubbish and from the summit of it he pointed out the extent of Damascus, Avith its 110,000 inhabitants. Damascus was unusually full at that time, in consequence of the number of pilgrims [Hadji] just returning from Mecca. Here were Arabs in abundance, Sheikhs and their followers, Jews from many nations, Turks, Armenians. Greek and Syrian Christians, The women walk about in 480 MOHAMMEDAN LAW. large m hite robes, with their faces veiled with dark coloured silk handkerchiefs. The childrei^ are very good-looking, fine, healthy, and strong, and not many of them troubled with sore eyes as in Egypt. Three English gentlemen arrived at Damascus from Beyrut and Baalbec on the Sunday evening; and came to the same hotel where I had taken up my quarters. They had lately arrived from Liver- pool. Mr. Moss, one of the party, came out in command of a steamer, the "Nile," and was making arrangements for establishing a regular line of steam communication direct between Liveipool, Beyrut and Alexandria. His vessel would shortly leave Beyi-ut. This would just leave me time to visit Baalbec, and, if all were well, to have two or three days at command at Alexandria, before finally embarking for England. I called on Dr. Paldin, American Missionary, and had the pleasure of meeting also another member of the Mission. Mr. Porter, from Ireland. There are four Missionaries at Damascus, connected with the associated Presbyterian Churches of America and Ireland. The Missionaries are supported by the Societies of those countries respectively, but voluntarily unite on the spot in forming one mission. They seem encouraged in their labours, which are directed to the Christian population of Damascus, and in part also to the Jews. They have no direct access to the Mohamme- dan population. The Mohammedan law condemns to death, and actually inflicts the punishment on any one of their sect embracing Christianity. It seems that a man was put to death a few years since, who had been a Christian, and renounced it for the profession of Mohammedanism. On renouncing IMohammedanism and returning to Christianity he was condemned to die. The ambassadors at Constanti- nople interfered on his behalf, and were promised by the Turkish Government, that at any i-ate nothing should be decided in the case of the man till the government had first communicated with them. In defiance of the promise, the man was beheaded. This afforded a strong gi'Oimd of re INSURKECTION AT ALEPPO. 481 monstrance, and the law was then modified in favour of parties returning from Mohammedanism to Christianity, but left it in the same state as affecting all others. It being Christmas-day, and no English services being held in Damascus, except one which I conducted in my own room, we went to the Roman Catholic chapel. It is, I suppose, part of a large Turkish house, and has been decorated for its present purposes. The organ is wretched and the singing bad. The only pleasant voice was that of the priest, who was gorgeously bedizened on the occasion. I was suffering from headache, and was rather glad of it as an excuse for leaving the place before the service concluded. There was everything to make one regret that such should be the perverted exhibition of Christianity, in the midst of a place where the purest and brightest form of Divine truth should be unfolded. We learned here that the outbreak at Aleppo, which had proved fatal to several of the Christians, had been completely suppressed. General Bem had bombarded the Mussulman part of the town, and many of the people perished. The Ottoman government had decreed that the Mussulmans should rebuild, at their own cost, all the Christian churches which they had demolished, and refund the property stolen, or otherwise destroyed. This is the first measure of the kind adopted by that government, and has been adopted solely through the vigorous and resolute steps of the European ambassadors. This decided suppression of the emeute at Aleppo saved Damascus, and perhaps, all Syria, from similar acts of violence. I heard it stated, that there Avas eveiy reason to believe, there would have been an insurrection in Damascus, and much violence attending it, had not the news arrived of the strong measures adopted by the Turkish government in reference to Aleppo. General Bem, it was added, had since died. He had long suffered from wounds, and had had a ball extracted from his thigh in England. He had always refused to take medicine. IX 483 JEWISH HOUSES IN DAMASCUS. A short time since lie became woi-se, agreed to take medi- cine, and died. Eents are extremely low in Damascus. The hotel where I was staying was spacious and in good condi- tion. A large room, in which a native musical perform- ance was held last night, seemed to me nearly as large as Crosby Hall itself, and quite as lofty. They can make up from twenty to thirty beds ; and yet the rent is only j630 per annum. It belongs to a Jewish widow. The residence also of the British consul is an excellent one. There is a fine court-yard, with trees, shrubs, flowers, and fountains, and obtained on very easy terms. I \'isited again the gate of St. John's Church — a fine specimen of ancient architecture ; it may be of the age of the Romans, or possibly earlier, and afterwards adopted for a Christian church. I went also to see the interior of two Jewish residences, and found them exceedingly beautiful, and even magnificent. I can imagine that, without strong religious feeling, an Israelite occupying such residences, would veiy unwillingly take up his abode amidst the squalor and wretchedness of the Jews' quarter in Jerusalem. There is nothing in the exterior of these Damascus mansions to commend them — nothing to in- dicate the wealth and luxury within. But the court- yards are beautifully paved with marble in mosaic work ; and fountains abound. Trees, flowers, shrubs, climbing- plants, give variety and elegance. The room^ are halls — splendid saloons, lofty, and richly ornamented, and some of them elegantly furnished. The good lady of a house at which we called was at home, a comely dame, sitting with her maidens, busily occupied with some domestic affairs. She made no difficulty in admitting us to see the apartments ; in fact, she seemed pleased to allow us to do so. It afforded her servants the opportunity of receiving some little " backsheesh." On leaving Damascus we had a long and fatiguing day's ride to Zcbedani. The view of Damascus from LEBANOX. 483 the hills immediately above the village of Selahiah, is most delightful and magnificent. The hills conduct to Anti-libanus ; the path is winding and difficult. We passed a few villages and considerable herds of cattle. There is much cultivation. Oaks, poplars, and olives, abound. We found that much snow had fallen as we continued our ascent. After some lingering delay on the part of the muleteers in starting, we at length set out for Baalbec. We were still crossing Anti-libanus, and about mid-day came in sight of Lebanon itself — the vast towering range of Leba- non, with its glorious heights covered with snow. On descending from our heights, we came to the vast and rich plain of Bekaah, perhaps the Baca of the 84th Psalm. We passed on our descent immense portions of rock, which 1 take to be porphyritic slate, originally of the Silurian formation. We came then to a fine stream passing to the north-icest. Hitherto all the streams had run in the opposite direction, the south-east. I hoped to have reached Baalbec by sunset, and to have enjoyed the sight of the ruins at that moment ; but it was impracticable. It became dark half-an-hour before we arrived, and I could but just distinguish some- thing elevated before I reached the convent. This something consisted of the six splendid columns that constitute one of the finest portions of the rains. At the convent I found tolerable accommodations. One padre was there, of the name of Bartany, a Greek Catholic. He was friendly and tried to be attentive, but we could hold very little conversation together.. He knew only Italian and Arabic, and with these my acquaintance was far too limited for the purposes of easy intercourse. Soon after daybreak, next morning, I set out with my dragoman to visit the niins of Baalbec. I took with me Lord Lindsay's volume, containing his description of them, that I might use it on the spot and make myself familiar with the site and ruins by his aid. But rain 48-4 ItUINS OF BAALBEC. came on, and I found I could do no more than take a hasty glance of the mighty and awful scene, and then proceed on my journey, anxious to reach Beyrut with as little delay as possible, so that I might be in time for the steamer to Alexandria. I will, therefore, only say, that I was awe-struck with these immense, these marvellous ruins. I gazed with astonishment on their grandeur — grandeur though in ruins, the very embodi- ment of ruined magnificence, and where the veiy ruins seem to be imj^erishable ! They are not mere piles of buildings, but of exquisite and elaborate workmanship ; and the skill employed in elevating such masses of masonry, must have been prodigious. The mind that planned all this work must have been a master mind, and the wealth and munificence that could command all this must have been of the highest order. And yet, this was not done to the glory of God — to Him of whom are all things, and to whom all must ultimately, and ought primarily, to be consecrated. The temples are ruins ; but they are splendid monuments of heathenism, and might well admonish Christians, with their far higher privileges and attainments, how much is demanded of them. "Wherever much is given, much will be required." As I rode away from these ruins, I turned as often as I could, to take anotlier and another view of them. It was such a scene as I had never beheld before, and, most pro- bably, never should again. The world has nothing equal to it. I went down into the long vaults or passages under the temple, on which, indeed, the platform of the temple stands. Even these underground arched vaults are works of surprising extent. They are now used chiefly by mule- teers, as resting-places while on their journey ! I proceeded to the quarry, at a short distance from tlie ruins, and rode round that immense block, cut from the solid rock, though not yet detached from it, mentioned by all travellers. It is about seventy feet long, twelve feet wide, and fifteen deep. An amazing mass ! How it was KAIL STORMS. 485 intended to remove it, I cannot tell. Its weight is esti mated at above one thousand tons ! No voice survives to explain its design. At Baalbec, I went also to see the small circular Corin- thian temi^le, with its columns and niches, which yet remains. It must have been very chaste and beautiful in its original state. And after leaving Baalbec, there are some fine columns on the road, still upright, and forming some kind of building that I could not understand. They are formed of red granite. The rain was now drenching us, and my people wished to remain at a village, which we reached at half-past ten. This I positively refused to do ; and we kept on till two o'clock, when, coming to a village called Habla, we obtained a house, and agreed to remain there for the night. The people were civil and hospitable. My people told me we could not proceed in the morning, if there were rain ; as rains in the lower country would be snow, ice, and hail as we ascended the mountains, which we must now pass on our road to Beyrut. However, they came in the morning to say they wished to go forward to another village, at three hours' distance, otherwise the path might become so frozen that we should not be able to go on for a length of time. Parties, they assured me, have been detained ten, twenty, thirty, and even forty days, and sometimes the journey proves fatal ; the mules become unable to keep their footing : they fall and perish. The travellers, being thus left to walk, find they cannot long boar up against the cold, and they perish too. A party, with fourteen mules, was some few years ago conveying money to Constanti- nople, to the Government. The people and the mules all perished, and the money was found on the spot, on the return of tlie spring and the melting of the ice and snow. These were no very pleasing associations, certainly, and I was glad to find my people anxious to press forward, so as to get out of the region of delay and danger. We set out at nine, but a fierce hailstorm drove us back again. This 486 VILLAGE OF MALAKA. subsided, and we recommenced our journey, kept on till about eleven, and then took up our quartei's at a village called Malaka, where the people assured us it was impos- sible to proceed farther without most imminent danger. " If you wish to die," said they, " go forward ; if not, re- main here." This Adllage is about three miles from Zachle, a somewhat important place for manufactures. Malaka has about 2000 inhabitants ; chiefly consisting of Maronites, and Greek and Latin Catholics. There are no Moham- medans. I remained all the next day at that village, as the weather still rendered it impossible to advance. Some Metualis, I was told, reside here. These form a sect of INIohammedans. There are, in the Anjaiy mountains to the north, some Metuali Anjaries, whose worship appears, from the account given me, to be exceedingly impure. They may be descendants of ancient heathens, as wor- shippers of Ashtaroth. They forbid any strangers to be present at their orgies. Should any one dare to intrude, he would be sacrificed to their resentment, and pay the penalty of death for his temerity. They veil their cere- monies in profound secrecy, and, if reports be true, may well enough do so. We left Malaka about nine, and proceeded, amidst hea%y rains, across the Bekaah, till we began to ascend Leba- non. Torrents were everywhere gushing along, formed principally by these late rains and snows. We reached Khan el Mereri Job, and there found several parties wait- ing to go forward to Beyrut. Some had been part of the way, and then returned on account of the impassable state of the path. The khan stands on a hill. It is farmed of the government by a native, for about 1000 piastres a-year (£10), and the man realises his profit by the sale of a few eggs, poultry, a little bread, &c., to travellers. The view is fine over the valley, where the industrious hand of culti- vation is abundantly visible. We left the khan early, not a little encouraged by find- ing that snow had fallen dming the night, as being safer to BEYRUT. 487 walk over than masses of congealed hail. The wind had also changed in our favour, and we were led to think there would not be rain during the day. We pressed forward with as much speed as possible, but it was with extreme difficulty. Many parts of our road were dangerously slip- pery; the mules fell under the burdens, and both horses and riders came down. Still we had no relief. Our only safety was in urging our way forward. In about three hours we reached the highest portion of the movmtain we were crossing, but which was far to the south of that part of Lebanon where the famous cedars are found. It was perfectly out of the question to visit them. The road thither was entirely blocked up at that season, with snow. The highest range of Lebanon is 11,000 feet above the level of the sea. The part where we crossed is thought to be about 8000. It occupied us more than seven hours to descend, and reach Beyrut, the ancient Berytus. We arrived there in the evening, after having halted half-an- hour on our way down the mountain, at a khan, where we obtained some acceptable Arab refreshments, coffee, thin bread, honey, cheese, and wine. I was heartily glad when the lights in and about the town of Beyrut began to appear, and it had been with no small pleasure that I had seen on my way down the mountain, one steamer, if not two, in the bay, so that I indulged the hope I might yet be in time to overtake the " Nile," and reach Alexandria at the time I desired ; namely, a day or two prior to the departure of the Oriental Company's steamer to Southampton. My dragoman conducted me to "Belle Vue Hotel," which is kept by a Greek of the name of Demetrius. Its ac- commodations are good. I partook of refreshment, and soon retired to rest, thankful that I had now reached the termination of my journey, where I might bid farewell to camels, mules, and donkeys, as I had done to oxen and wagons on leaving the Cape, and that henceforth I had only to do with British steamers. 488 BETRUT. Never can there be effaced from my memory the three last days of 1850 and the first of 1851. They were intensely cold, and the journey was extremely fatiguing. Yet I envy not the man who would not gratefully endure all that cold and all that fatigue for the sake of the glorious scenes which I was then permitted to witness, — the mag- nificent ruins of Baalbec — the rich and richly cultivated valley of Bekaah, and the twin mountain ranges of Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon, with all their glorious heights. And then Beyrut itself is a beautiful spot, and its country romantic and delicious. It is fast rising into com- mercial importance. It contains already European wealth, intelligence and enterprise, and with these its commanding position ensures its prosperity. I soon made my arrangement for leaving by the " Nile" steamer for Alexandria, but had sufficient time remaining to call on Colonel Rose, Consul General of Syria, and Mr. Moore, Consul for Beirut, on Pvev. Eli Smith of the Ame- rican Mission, and to visit the valuable printing establish- ment under his superintendence. I found Mr. Smith busily engaged on a new version of the Scriptures in Arabic, direct from the Hebrew. The version at present in use was made from the Vulgate, and is considered less faithful and correct than could be desired. I had left my muleteers on the road in charge of my luggage. They safely overtook me the next morning. I paid them for twenty days' tour from Jerusalem, including the three spent at Damascus. The charge was 65 piastres, (6s. 6d.) a day, including two horses, three mules and three men to attend them. I rode the whole distance on horse- back. My dragoman did also. The mules conveyed the goods, and no accident befel any of them, beyond a little slipping about and an occasional fall amidst the icy paths of Lebanon. I passed an agi-eeable evening with Colonel Rose, (son of Sir George Rose) and a party of friends, and was glad to embrace the opportunity of conversing with the Consul- ALEXANDRIA TO SOUTHAMPTON. 489 General on the affairs of Aleppo and of Syria, and of the Mohammedans, so far as they had fallen under his own observation. The next afternoon, having settled with my attendant Barzily, who had accompanied me all the way from Cairo, I embarked on board the "Nile," and we proceeded very pleasantly at ten knots an hour towards Alexandria, our destination. The " Nile" is propelled by a screw, and worked with much ease. Our distance was 360 miles. On reaching Alexandria we found that the Company's steamer, the "Papon," had arrived after an unusually quick passage from Southampton, and was again just about re- turning. The captain of the "Nile" having discharged his cargo, and the passengers who intended to remain at Alexandria being left in the lazaretto there, he promj)tly and politely conveyed me round from the quarantine harbour, to that in which the " Eipou" was receiving her cargo and passengers, and by three o'clock (5th January) I was transferred alongside that noble steamer, and as soon as the usual quarantine regulations had been complied with, I was admitted on board. It was some little disap- pointment not to have time allowed for visiting the popular antiquities and modern lions of Alexandria, but there was compensation in the thought that I was now fjiirly on my way to " that land of every land the best, — my home." We had remarkably fine weather, agreeable passengers, and a commander of most sterling value — Captain Moresby. We anticipated reaching Malta within four days after leaving Alexandria, then Gibraltar in five more, and witliin another five, Southampton itself. And all this, thi-ough the mi- ceasing care of Him " in whom we live and move and have our being," we were permitted to accomplish, and on the evening of the 20th January I again trod the terra firma of Old England, and found a most fraternal welcome from the Kev. T. Adkins, of Southampton, at whose family altar I was privileged to join at the hour of evening worship, and under whose hospitable roof I passed the first niglit on my return to my native shores. 490 RETURN HOME. Kindly aided in completing all my little arrangements at the Custom House, I was early on my way to London, and it seemed to be a treat, after the leisurely paces of oxen, camels, and mules, to find myself once more keeping pace w^ith the times we live in, and in one hour on the South-Western Railway, performing a whole days work of an African or Syrian traveller. Four such hours placed me again within my family circle, from which no one had been removed by accident or death during my absence. I had been followed during all my tour by a mother's anxious prayers, and the earnest prayers of many. She was spared to greet my return, and I, to attend the closing hours of her pilgrimage. She has now entered into her rest, and her memory will long be fragrant. May the many supplications which she oflFered return in showers of blessings on those she has left of her family and the church, to the latest generations ! The next day after reaching London, I met some of the Directors and members of the Missionary Society' ; and, as soon as possible, the gi-eat body of the Directors, both of the metropolis and tlie provinces. To them I presented the official report of my visitation. Since then, I have had the opportunity of making many communications, at various public meetings of the constituents of the Society ; and I have now endeavoured, through the pages of this volume, to detail facts, which I have hoped might deepen the sympathy of the Christian public in the entei-prise of Missions, under the strongest assurance, that such labour is not in vain in the Lord. During my tour of two years and a quarter, I had learned many things abroad ; and now, on my return, I found I had many also to learn at home, and not the least, tlie movement on the Papal question. The last news I had heard on leaving England at the close of 1848 was, that the Pope had fled from Piome, and was at Gaeta ! The f.rst news on my return was, that of the Papal aggression — the appointment of a Cardinal for POPERY .VXD PKOTESTANTISM'. 491 Englishmen, in the middle of the nineteenth century — ■ and the aroused spirit of English Protestantism in resist- ing the imposition of " a yoke, that neither we nor our fathers could hear." Assuredly I had seen nothing in all my tour to shake my faith or principles as a Protestant, nothing to make me willing to surrender one particle of civil or religious freedom, to give up one atom of liherty of conscience, or of the right of placing the Sacred Volume in the hands of every man heneath the skies. I came home with the deepest impression, that ivherever Popery advances, the in- terests of humanity recede ; that the Protestant faith is the hulwark of English liberty, and the guarantee of Britain's elevation ; and that, if that faith perish from our land, political anarchy, social degradation, and moral ruin must as inevitably follow, as the shadows of evening and the darkness of night follow the setting of the sun. I have now closed the sketch of my " Tour," and offered in passing, the incidental remarks which I thought ex- pedient. I forbear to detain my readers longer. I will only say : — 1 . If I have failed to awaken an interest in Christian Missions, there is verily a fault in me. The Missions themselves are not a failure, or " then the world is a failure, and every thing is a failure." The native tribes of South Africa are indebted for their preservation, their liberty^ their intelligence, their social advantages, and their religion, to Christian Missions. 2. I shall deejjly lament if I have not shown cause for Britain's interference on behalf of the coloured races of Southern Africa. I long to see introduced wiser and better methods of treating them, and the "rule made abso- lute,'' that the power wliich Britain would not dare emj^loy in offering an affront to any one of the civilised nations of Europe that could defend itself, shall not be abused in robbing or crushing one of the meanest tribes of Africa. that cannot resist and defend itself. 492 FINAL REMARKS. 3. I see that in the onward movements of Divine Provi- dence immense fields for the Christian enterprise of the British Churches are opening in Africa and in Asia. Let no man deem the work too vast for accomplishment, for God is on our side. Let no man count his own efforts too mean to be of value, for God works through feeble instru- mentality. An infant hand may plant the acorn — gerai of the future and majestic oak of the forest ; only, " What- soever thy hand findeth to do, do it with thy might." 4. I trust that Egypt and Palestine may share the thoughts and s}Tnpathies of many in our land, as well as Southern Africa. If the outline of my tour in those lands of indelible interest, shall tempt some of my ministerial brethren and friends to visit them and aid them, I shall have rendered them and those countries valuable service. Finally. The more I have seen of other lands, the more grateful I am for Britain ; I love her laws, her institutions, her government, her freedom, her sovereign, her 2'eligion ; and if I have Avhispered of things, or spoken plainly of things, that need correction, it is not because I love those less, but because I love them more. REFP A^^D PARDON, PRINTERS, PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON. NEW AND VALUABLE WORKS PUBLISHED BY JOHN SNOW, 35, PATEKNOSTER ROW. 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