UC-NRLF 
 
 B 3 2b3 3flT 
 
 1 
 
 1790,1800. 
 
 
 
 :■ 
 
■^■^■■1 
 
 LIBRARY 
 
 OF THE 
 
 University of California. 
 
 Class 
 

JOURNAL, &c. 
 
JOURNAL 
 
 KEPT DURING A VISIT TO GERMANY 
 
 IN 1799, l80C. 
 
 ■y? v 
 
 £ 
 
 EDITED BY 
 
 THE DEAN OF WESTMINSTER. 
 
 Of THE 
 
 UNIVERSITY 
 
 Of 
 
 [not PUBLISHED.] 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 TTTHEN last year the letters journals and other 
 papers of my Mother came into my hands, I 
 found among these a journal somewhat irregularly kept 
 during a visit to Germany in 1799, 1800. This was 
 not intended for publication, and only parts of it have 
 received even that limited publicity which I am giving 
 to them here. I should not have done even so much, 
 had this journal been nothing else but an account of 
 sights seen, and cities visited, of picture galleries and 
 the like ; since it would have been idle to draw from its 
 obscurity a record which, however well done, must now 
 be manifestly out of date. But it is not so. The chief 
 interest of the journal lies in the notices of persons with 
 whom the writer was brought into more or less familiar 
 contact. It is true that among these Nelson is the 
 only one of primary historic interest ; but there are 
 
 12476 
 
vi Preface. 
 
 many others about whom we are still glad to hear 
 anything from those who have anything to tell, and are 
 capable of telling it — names, it may be, of secondary 
 importance, or such as occupy no place at all in his- 
 tory, but which still live more or less in the memoirs 
 of that time, and live on even to our own time in the 
 oral traditions of social life. More than one member 
 of our own Royal Family, the Duke of Brunswick 
 and his Court, the Queen of Prussia, Breteuil, Beur- 
 nonville, Bellegarde, Rivarol, Gentz, Lavalette, Alexis 
 OrlofF, Lord and Lady Holland, Lord Minto, Sir 
 William and Lady Hamilton, Mr. Elliot, our 
 Minister at Dresden, Righini the composer, Fuger 
 the painter, with others, all find a place here; and 
 brief as are the notices of many among them, yet, if 
 a natural partiality does not deceive me, they are fre- 
 quently lively, vigorous, and distinctive; and altogether 
 there rises before one a certain picture of Germany 
 and German Courts, at a time when Marengo was 
 more recent than Solferino is now, such as is not ob- 
 tained from books of far greater pretensions. 
 
 One further word I am unwilling not to speak. If 
 to some into whose hands this little volume may fall, 
 
Preface. vii 
 
 it should seem merely or mainly the record of a 
 pleasure-seeking existence, of a life lived in the world 
 and for the world, I dare not deny the partial 
 truth which would lie in such a judgment. Un- 
 doubtedly the deeper life, the more serious and 
 earnest views of existence, all for which her children 
 have to thank her the most, was to be in her the 
 fruit of sorrows and trials which at this time were yet 
 in the future. But the journal itself, if printed more 
 at full, would leave much less of this impression than 
 do the extracts which I have given from it, setting 
 aside, as I have done, very much which shows an 
 earnest desire for mental improvement, with other 
 matters more serious and solemn still, which in a just 
 reserve I have passed over. These allowances made, 
 if some grounds for such a censure should still remain, 
 yet would they in large part have disappeared. 
 
 To explain the position of the writer at this time, 
 it may be needful to say that, being the only daughter 
 of the only son of Richard Chenevix, Bishop of Water- 
 ford, to whom so many of Lord Chesterfield's letters 
 are written, she was married, at the age of nineteen, 
 to Colonel St. George, of Carrick-on-Shannon, and 
 
viii Preface. 
 
 at the age of twenty-two was left a widow with an 
 only son. An interval of several years elapsed before 
 her second marriage, during which period the visit 
 to Germany, of which a record is in these pages, 
 was made. 
 
 Deanery, Westminster, 
 June 10, 1861. 
 
JOURNAL.- 
 
 OCTOBER 20, 1799., Yarmouth. — I left London on 
 the 16th, with the consolation of feeling that all my 
 friends parted from me as from a beloved child, mixing 
 with their affection a degree of care that proved they 
 quite forgot I was more than fifteen. I have been 
 detained here since last Friday, waiting for a fair wind, 
 and my imprisonment would have been comfortless 
 enough, had it not been for the attentions of Mr. 
 Hudson Gurney, a young man on whom I had no 
 claims except from a letter of Mr. Sanford's ; who 
 without knowing or having any connexion with him, 
 recommended me to his care, feeling wretched at the 
 idea of my being unprotected in the first stage of 
 my journey. He has already devoted to me one even- 
 ing, and two mornings, assisted me in money matters, 
 lent me books, and enlivened my confinement to a 
 wretched inn by his pleasant conversation. Mr. 
 Sanford having described me as a person travelling 
 alone for her health, he says his old assistant in the 
 
 B 
 
2 Cuxhaven — Ham. 
 
 bank fancied I was a decrepit elderly lady who might 
 safely be consigned to his youthful partner. His des- 
 cription of his surprise, thus prepared, was conceived 
 in a very good strain of flattery. He is about two 
 and twenty ; understands several languages, seems to 
 delight in books, and to be uncommonly well informed. 
 
 Oct. 27, Cuxhaven, — Arrived yesterday — wretched 
 passage, a high wind, never able to quit my little 
 miserable bed. I fancied myself a good sailor, because 
 I tolerated my Portuguese voyage, when I had the 
 whole vessel to myself, several attendants, all pos- 
 sible luxuries and accommodations, and every person 
 on board occupied in sparing me the shadow of an 
 inconvenience. I find that travelling under the pro- 
 tection of a husband that deifies one, and is profuse 
 in all expense that can promote one's comfort, gives a 
 very faint idea of the contretems of an economical and 
 solitary journey. 
 
 Nov. 4, Ilanij near Hamburgh. — Arrived at the Stadt 
 Petersburgh on the 29th. Baron Breteuil* called 
 
 * Baron Breteuil, born in 1733, was employed by Louis XV. in im- 
 portant diplomatic services, in Russia and elsewhere j and at a later day 
 was Minister of Home Affairs. He opposed the calling together of the 
 
Ham. 3 
 
 next morning, and overcame all my objections to 
 making him a visit by proving it was as much the wish 
 of his daughter as himself. She also called and re- 
 iterated the invitation. The baron is rich as an 
 emigre r , having near 4000?. a-year. He has a delight- 
 ful house, and entertains in a very comfortable way, 
 without any pretension to keeping up his ancient style 
 of magnificence. He sees not only his friends, but a 
 various and extensive acquaintance. His daughter, 
 Mad. de Matignon, has a certain share of wit, great 
 pleasantry, the best manners possible, and unalterable 
 cheerfulness, amounting indeed to what may be called 
 uncommon high spirits. His grand-daughter, the 
 Duchess of Montmorenci, is pleasing, lively, and well- 
 bred, less clever than her mother in conversation, 
 and excessively occupied with her toilette, but in so 
 unaffected a way it rather diverts than fatigues. The 
 whole time of my visit she has employed herself in 
 taking patterns of every thing I possessed, and making 
 up similar dresses with the ingenuity of a milliner or 
 mantua-maker. The whole family vie with each 
 
 States-General, and headed for a moment a reactionary ministry after the 
 brief retirement of Neckar. He left France in 1 790, and after residing in 
 Hamburgh for some years, was allowed to return, in 1802, to France. He 
 died at Paris, in 1807. — Ed. 
 
 b2 
 
4 Soltau. 
 
 other in proofs of civility to me, and in solicitations 
 that I would prolong my stay. Last evening they 
 accompanied me to the play, and in spite of the law 
 which commands the gates of Hamburgh to be closed 
 at half-past five, we returned to Ham at ten. This 
 is done by a little manoeuvre, and crossing the river 
 where it is shallow and narrow, an operation of about 
 fifteen minutes. I saw it was an expedition which 
 did not delight the baron, though he undertook it on 
 my account, and I am not surprised at his repugnance, 
 as certainly in the month of November it was a party 
 only suited to five and twenty. 
 
 Nov. 6, Soltau. — Left Ham yesterday, penetrated 
 with Baron Breteuil's unaltered friendship, which time 
 and absence have had no power to diminish. c I must 
 give you an idea of this day's journey, not by way of 
 complaint, but of narrative. Without delay, dispute, 
 accident, or ever quitting the carriage, 1 have travelled 
 from Hopen here, exactly at the rate of two English 
 miles an hour, in a post chaise, but moderately loaded, 
 and drawn by four horses. It is two posts, one of 
 four, the other of three German miles, each of which 
 you know is some four English. The roads are 
 dreadfully bad, but from the flatness of the country, 
 
ZelL 5 
 
 and the absence of either wall or ditch, not dangerous. 
 Going so slow, in an occasional journey, does not 
 signify, but I should be sorry to live where the difficulty 
 of communication is so great. It would be a sad thing 
 to think that if your child or best friend was in the 
 most urgent distress at a hundred miles' distance, you 
 would be fifty hours getting to them even if you 
 travelled night and day, which on these roads few con- 
 stitutions could bear. The sterility and uninhabited 
 appearance of the country is melancholy to excess. 
 Imagine a dead flat, either absolutely naked, or slightly 
 covered with a little starved heath, and sometimes 
 extending three or four miles without an appearance of 
 life, or trace of the hand of man. After driving for a 
 couple of hours through a desert of this sort, you can- 
 not imagine the pleasure with which I saw and heard 
 three or four geese, which formed in my eye a most 
 interesting group.' 
 
 Nov. 8 ; Zell. — The second post of yesterday's journey 
 was more tolerable to the eye than any I have yet 
 seen, as a river in one place, and here and there a few 
 trees, broke the general appearance of sterility. Many 
 of them were firs, whose deep green contrasted agree- 
 ably with the withered leaves of bright brown and 
 
G Hanover. 
 
 yellow that were intermixed. This is a very small 
 town, without trade or manufactures, and possesses no 
 attractions of any kind ; yet I remained here to day 
 partly to rest, and partly to view at my leisure the 
 castle where Matilda, Queen of Denmark, died in the 
 bloom of her youth, after having expiated by three 
 years' confinement either her indiscretion or her crime, 
 for history seems at a loss to decide whether she was 
 guilty or only imprudent. It is a quadrangle sur- 
 rounded by a moat, has once been whitewashed, but 
 is now very dirty, and the outside has a gloomy appear- 
 ance, increased perhaps by our associating with it ideas 
 of banishment and a prison. The apartment once 
 inhabited by Matilda is a suite of five rooms, terminat- 
 ing in her bed-chamber. They are all hung with 
 tapestry, and her bed is of green damask. Though 
 unsuitable to a youthful Queen, they are yet spacious, 
 convenient, and have a certain air of dignity. 
 
 Nov. 9, Hanover. — Another day of fatigue and two 
 tedious posts have brought ir^e here. The country 
 has improved during this last day's journey. There is 
 a road edged with trees, instead of the miserable 
 track, scarce discernible, through sand or heath ; 
 and here and there the eye is refreshed with a culti- 
 
r UP THE \ 
 
 C UNIVERSITY J 
 
 Hanover. 7 
 
 vated field and distant wood. I am not out of humour 
 with German travelling, slow as it is. I have found 
 all the people I employed, obliging, though not ef/ijrresse^ 
 and there is a quietness in their manner that pleases. 
 The postillions neither swear nor beat their horses, 
 and are satisfied with a very small gratuity. 
 
 Nov. 13. — Received a visit from Mr. Tatler, one of 
 Prince Adolphus' household. Soon after he sent me 
 a civil note and several books. 
 
 Nov. 15. — Prince Adolphus, who arrived last night, 
 called on me this morning. His exterior is highly 
 prepossessing. He is extremely handsome, tall, and 
 finely formed. His complexion fair, yet manly ; his 
 features regular, yet expressive. His manners bear 
 that stamp of real goodness, which no art can imitate, 
 no other charm replace ; and though he presents him- 
 self with suitable dignity, his address immediately 
 inspires ease and confidence. His conversation is 
 fluent, various, and entertaining. 
 
 Nov. 16. — Prince Adolphus called on me about 
 twelve, introducing to me Mad. de Busche, whose 
 husband has a place at Court, and whom he has fixed 
 
8 Hanover. 
 
 on to accompany me in my round of visits. She is a 
 beautiful grandmother, with irresistible manners. At 
 six Mad. de Busche called to take me to pay my 
 visits ; we only dropped tickets, and afterwards she 
 introduced me, according to an arrangement of the 
 Prince's, at Mad. de Wallmoden's. The Marechal 
 de Wallmoden is son to George the Second and the 
 beautiful Lady Yarmouth. Our company only con- 
 sisted of our host and hostess, the two Princes, an 
 officer who played on the violin, some musicians, and 
 Mr. Tatler, who educated the Princes Augustus and 
 Adolphus, and now lives with the latter as a friend. 
 
 Nov. 1 8. — The Prince, who regularly sends me the 
 newspapers, was so kind as to call on me at five in the 
 evening with a French gazette ; and afterwards Mr. 
 Tatler, whose adoration of him is truly interesting, 
 sat with me the rest of the evening;. He enlarged 
 much on his goodness, saying he never had done, and 
 never would do, anything to give the king, his father, 
 a moment's uneasiness. He cannot speak of his father 
 without tears in his eyes. 
 
 Nov. 20. — Dined at Court ; an invitation dinner of 
 about thirty persons. Prince Adolphus of course re- 
 
Hanover. 9 
 
 presents our king ; but there is no ceremony, and the 
 dinner does not differ from that at the house of any 
 private gentleman, except in the number of attendants 
 and the circumstance of every person's being placed at 
 table according to their rank. They rise from table 
 in about two hours and a half, drink coffee, and 
 separate between five and six. There is no particular 
 court dress. When I least expected it the band played 
 c God save the King.' It was the first time I had 
 heard it since I left England, and in addition to the 
 feelings it usually excites, it awakened ten thousand 
 fond ideas of home and all the dear friends I had left 
 behind. It was a painfully-pleasing moment. 
 
 Nov.. 24. — An assembly at Mad. BielwhaPs. In- 
 stead of the constant ingress and egress from ten till 
 one, as at a London assembly, every one assembles at 
 about half-past six and goes away about nine. I like 
 this better; you are sure of meeting your acquaintances 
 by going to the same place, which does not follow in 
 London. 
 
 Nov. 27. — At a supper at Madame de Wall- 
 moden's, met a countryman, Lord B — , whom I 
 had always seen with great indifference at home, 
 
1 Hanover. 
 
 but whose appearance in a foreign country gave me 
 great pleasure. 
 
 Dec. 3. — A ball at Prince Adolphus\ His house is 
 very beautiful, both as to taste and magnificence, and 
 the former predominates just enough. The rooms are 
 chiefly hung and furnished with Lyons silks, in com- 
 partments, and the ceilings, floors, doors, windows, 
 &c, are painted in the most exquisite Italian style. 
 The hall is lofty and well-proportioned, the apartments 
 perfectly distributed, and there is a marble saloon and 
 a boudoir lined with looking-glass, which more re- 
 
 DO J 
 
 semble a description in the Arabian NigJits than any- 
 thing one has seen in real life. The ball was gay and 
 brilliant ; many more men than women, which still 
 surprizes me, after having been accustomed to see 
 seven women to one man in London. 
 
 Dec. 18. — I have had a little cold, and have not 
 been out in an evening since the concert at Court on 
 the 9th, except once en /ami lie to Count Minister's.* 
 Count Miinster has a charming collection of pictures, 
 
 * Count Miinster is well known in England, having been for many 
 years, during the connexion between Hanover and England, the minister 
 for Hanoverian affairs at the Court of London. — Ed. 
 
Hanover. 1 1 
 
 which he chose himself at Rome when he was there 
 with Prince Augustus. He paints himself in oils ex- 
 tremely well for an amateur. At his house I met 
 Mad. Zimmerman, widow of the writer on Solitude. 
 She seems a very intelligent and is a very pleasing 
 woman. ■ She is not admitted to any of the great 
 assemblies of any of the first class, but may visit them 
 in private. The distinction between the noblesse and 
 the other classes is here kept up with a rigorous ex- 
 actitude. At first it provoked me. On reflection, I 
 believe it contributes more to happiness than the 
 mixture of ranks in London. Here every one moves 
 contentedly in their own class ; there all are struggling 
 to associate with those above them, whence proceeds 
 a vast share of envy, expense, and dissipation. Much 
 of these evils is cut up by the roots, when it is im- 
 possible by any exertion to quit the society of equals 
 for that of superiors ; and as this rule only extends to 
 large societies, it does not break asunder any endearing 
 ties ; for who would not rather see their friend in a 
 society of six than of sixty persons ? 
 
 Lee. 24. — I this day saw the little fete of Christmas- 
 Eve, so interestingly alluded to in Werther. Mad. de 
 Wallmoden knew it was a scene that would please 
 
1 2 Hanover. 
 
 me. On that evening all the children and young 
 people in a family receive from their friends a variety 
 of presents called les etrennes. They are arranged 
 with taste upon tables highly illuminated, ornamented 
 with boughs and shrubs, natural and artificial. Here 
 you see, in agreeable and studied confusion, shawls, 
 ribbons, flowers, pelisses, ornaments, toys, sweetmeats, 
 books — everything, in short. One table was spread 
 for the Countesses de la Lippe, two wards of the Field- 
 Marshal, and one for each of his children and grand- 
 children. When all is arranged the young people are 
 admitted, and nothing can form a greater variety of 
 pleasing pictures ; and then the delight of the children, 
 their unstudied expressions of gratitude, and the 
 pleasure of the parents in witnessing the delicious sen- 
 sations of that bewitching age. I was sensibly affected 
 by this scene, and equally interested by Mad. de Wall- 
 moden's deep but unobtrusive sensibility, and the 
 lively expression of happiness in the looks and gestures 
 of Mad. de Kielmansegge, a beautiful little woman, 
 whose animation in the embraces of her children is 
 contrasted by a certain indifferent nonchalance on other 
 occasions. The Field-Marshal retained his usual 
 appearance of strong sense and conscious but not un- 
 pleasing superiority, which gives him rather the aspect 
 
Hanover. 13 
 
 of an observer than an actor in every passing scene. 
 I sang several English songs, which pleased by their 
 novelty those who had never heard them before ; and 
 the Prince de la Lippe's tutor observed that he was 
 quite surprised at finding the English language could 
 be so well adapted to music. As it is much softer than 
 German, the remark added to the long list I have 
 made in proof that nothing English is appreciated by 
 foreigners. They willingly overrate the individual, 
 but almost always underrate the nation. 
 
 I)ec. 27. — A day of leave-taking. The Prince gave 
 me a map of Germany for my tour, and sent me a 
 kind note enclosing a letter of recommendation to the 
 Duchess of Brunswick. 
 
 Dec. 28. — At five o'clock bade adieu to Hanover. 
 My host, hostess, children, and family, were all up to 
 see me depart ; had prepared spiced wine, and showed 
 me every little mark of attention. 
 
 It was of course quite dark when I set out, and the 
 day seemed to dawn from earth instead of heaven, in 
 consequence of the ground being covered with snow. 
 I travelled eight German, or thirty-eight English, miles 
 with the same horses, rested an hour, and arrived 
 about six at Brunswick. 
 
1 4 Brunswick. 
 
 Dec. 29, Brunswick. — This evening saw Mr. Loftus, 
 eldest son to the General. As I did not think of 
 staying here, even for a day, or being presented, I 
 brought no letter except that I received from Prince 
 Adolphus, which I did not know the etiquette of send- 
 ing. Fortunately, Mr. Loftus, whose father and 
 mother I am well acquainted with, can assist me in 
 this and other particulars. 
 
 Dec. 30. — Sent to inform the Duchess' maid of 
 honour I had a letter for her royal highness. The 
 reply was an invitation to wait on her at six to-morrow 
 evening. 
 
 Dec. 3 J. — At six went to the Duchess's casino, so 
 they call an undress ball and supper. She received me 
 with the most winning condescension. It is impossible 
 not to be delighted with the ease, good humour, and 
 familiarity of her deportment. She has great fluency 
 in her own conversation, and is very attentive to that 
 of others, evidently showing her approbation when 
 anything is said that strikes or pleases her. There 
 are few ways in which a great person can encourage 
 or gratify more than this, and yet it is not common in 
 the very highest class. She is a fair, well-looking 
 
Brunswick. 15 
 
 woman, with what we call a very good countenance, 
 and I think when young must have been handsome. 
 She is now a great deal too large, and her dress made 
 her appear more so, being a thick buff-coloured satin 
 chemise, with long sleeves entirely lined, as she told 
 me, with fleecy hosiery. 
 
 The Duchess invited me to sup at her table with a 
 party of about ten, and placed me by her. I should 
 have enjoyed the conversation and her civility much 
 more if she had not, after many other inquiries, ex- 
 tracted from me my age, which I had determined to 
 keep a secret while here, as people have thought me 
 much younger than I am, and as so few tell truth on 
 that subject, those that do are always given a few 
 years more than they really have. Her exclamations 
 of surprise and declaration that twenty-four was the 
 utmost any one could give me, did not console me for 
 having been brought to confession. 
 
 The Duke of Brunswick is a tall military-looking 
 man, with a fine penetrating countenance ; his manners 
 polite, but imposing and dignified even to a degree of 
 stateliness. 
 
 Jan. I, i8co. — Dined and supped with the Duchess, 
 and sat by the hereditary Prince each time. At dinner 
 
1 6 Brunswick. 
 
 he was wonderfully affectionate, considering we had 
 not been acquainted twenty-four hours. At supper, 
 when time had improved our knowledge of each other 
 sufficiently for such a confidence, he assured me I was 
 the most interesting person he had ever met, and that 
 nothing would make him so happy as being able to 
 prevail on me to stay at Brunswick. This was ac- 
 companied with many sighs, doux yeux^ and exclama- 
 tions, to all which I answered with low bows and 
 audible expressions of gratitude. I could not refrain 
 from this little malice, as everything of the soft kind 
 was said in so very low a whisper that I saw nothing 
 could be more unwelcome, or more likely to stop such 
 declarations, than thus making them public. In the 
 course of the evening I was presented to the Dowager 
 Duchess, a wonderful woman of eighty-five. She is 
 grand-daughter to George the First, whom she says 
 she remembers seeing when she was eight years old, 
 and grandmother to the Princess of Wales, so is 
 doubly connected with England. She is sister to the 
 great Frederick, whose pictures she resembles, has 
 great sharpness in her eyes, and peculiar animation in 
 her remarkably small features. Her address is pleas- 
 ing, ancf there is a neatness, a purity, if I may so ex- 
 press myself, in her whole appearance, that one con- 
 
Brunswick, 1 7 
 
 templates with satisfaction. I played commerce at 
 her table, putting a florin in the pool, a strong con- 
 trast to the high play of London. I had been pre- 
 sented the night before to the Hereditary Princess, a 
 lively little woman, about twenty-nine. She has a re- 
 markably good carriage and address, walks and dances 
 well, and has a certain quickness in her looks, speech, 
 and motion that gives an idea of great natural vivacity. 
 
 Jan. 2. — Dined with the Hereditary Princess — no 
 other woman but Lady Findlater, who appears 
 sensible, lively, and talkative. In the evening went 
 to a concert at the reigning Duchess's. I do not find 
 an atom of that form I was taught to expect in all 
 German Courts. Not only the Duchess, but the 
 ladies who played raco with her, worked in the in- 
 tervals of the game. At another table there was a 
 large party employed in knotting, netting, em- 
 broidery, and even the homely occupation of knitting 
 stockings ; while the Hereditary Princess and those 
 idlers who had no regular work, were busy making 
 lint for the hospital. The Duchess was extremely 
 kind to me, and I again supped at her table, and she 
 obligingly desired me to dine with her next day, if I 
 was invited nowhere else. 
 
 c 
 
18 Brunswick. 
 
 Jan. 3. — After dinner the Duchess pressed me to 
 stay some time at Brunswick, at least till the arrival of 
 Lady Minto, to whom she said she would introduce 
 me. She dwelt on the inconvenience of my going to 
 Vienna a perfect stranger ; and said that a woman of 
 my age and appearance, who travelled in that way, 
 had ' tons les jprejuges contre elle? We were alone, 
 and she enlarged most affectionately on the subject, 
 ending by kissing my cheek, and assuring me that, 
 despite of this disadvantage, every one in Brunswick 
 was excessively partial to me, which she kindly said 
 gave her great pleasure. I supped with the Dowager 
 Duchess. She conversed with me after we rose from 
 supper : ^Vous n'aimezpas beaucoup en Angleterre le Rol 
 de Prusse? I frankly owned to her we did not. But, 
 said she, ' 11 n'est pas assez riclie pour fair e face aux 
 depenses d'une guerre contre les Franqois, et d'ailleu.rs 
 il ne pourrolt pas s'tmir avec VFmpereur. Les Fran- 
 cois ont lien voulu lid donner Ifanovre, mats il Va 
 refuse? She expressed great regret at not having 
 learned English. c Yous avez de grands ecrivaius en 
 Angleterre ; faime infiniment Pope ; je le trouve au 
 dessus de Voltaire? She then reverted to politics, ex- 
 tolled Mr. Pitt, and said every Englishman should 
 wear him in his heart. 
 
^ OF THE 
 
 UNIVERSITY 
 
 Of 
 
 Brunswick. 19 
 
 Jan. 4-9. — Every morning has brought me a regular 
 invitation from the reigning Duchess to dine and sup 
 at Court, except when she knew I was engaged to the 
 Hereditary Princess or the Dowager. She has behaved 
 to me with real affection, and once said to me with the 
 utmost kindness, ' I think you will love me at last.' 
 Indeed, I should be very ungrateful if I did not. The 
 ceremonial of the dinner at Court on the ordinary davs 
 is as follows : — -You go about three, drest as you like, 
 except that you must not appear in a hat, bonnet, 
 shawl, or muff. You find the Duchess standing at 
 the door of an inner apartment, her maids of honour 
 being in the next. The whole company stand till 
 dinner time (the Duke and Duchess never sit except 
 when their company can do so too). The chamber- 
 lain announces to the Duchess that it is on the table, 
 and hands her out. She makes a low curtsey to the 
 Duke and the company. The ladies follow, also 
 curtseying to the Duke, according to their rank, ex- 
 cept foreigners, who, even when untitled, take place 
 of all others, going in and out of the rooms, and also 
 at table. At dinner the Duchess sits at the middle of 
 one side and the Duke opposite to her. This situation, 
 as far as I have seen, answers to the head and foot in 
 England. The ladies are all ranked on one side, and 
 
 c 2 
 
20 Brunswick. 
 
 the gentlemen on the other, excepting princes, who 
 are allowed to mix with the ladies. The Prince de 
 Salm generally fell to my lot. He is rather above par 
 in address, appearance, and understanding. At dinner 
 there are every day forty people, and the conversation, 
 of course, is seldom general. Once only it turned on 
 politics. Some of the company expressed their expec- 
 tations that monarchy would be re-established in 
 France. c Je le desire ,' said the Duke, *- jjlus quejene 
 l'esj)ere.' He speaks well, in the subdued voice of 
 good sense, and has a stoop which takes nothing away 
 from the dignity of his appearance. I have never seen 
 him converse with a woman. There is an apparent 
 coldness in his manner to the Duchess, and in hers to 
 him a degree of constraint which it is evident she 
 tries to conceal. (Her rival, a woman of birth and 
 fashion, is lodged in the palace, and he dines with her 
 on a fixed day in every week). Some time after 
 dinner the company all remove to the drawing-room, 
 where tea and coffee occupy a few minutes ; no one 
 sits down. The Duchess takes leave of her company 
 about half-past five ; the ladies curtsey to the Duke, 
 and return home, even though they may be engaged 
 for the evening party which begins at a little after six. 
 The Duchess one evening invited me to retire with 
 
Brunswick. 21 
 
 "her at this time to her private apartment, which is a 
 particular favour. She spoke with great gratitude of 
 the affection the English had shown to her daughter, 
 and with great delicacy of the Prince of Wales, yet in 
 a manner which showed she felt his conduct. I dined 
 twice with the Hereditary Prince. There the dinners 
 are more cheerful, about ten people at a round table, 
 and men and women are intermixed. On n'y fait 
 pas trop bonne cliere^ but that is to me of no conse- 
 quence whatever. The Duchess Dowager's dinners 
 are more in the stvle of her son's ; she has near thirtv 
 people every day, so that the three Courts, except 
 when the family happen to dine together, entertain 
 daily near eighty persons. This dear little old woman 
 is just like a mummy j she is mere skin and bone in 
 the highest preserve. On the 9th I had a private 
 audience to take leave, and she gave me a letter of 
 recommendation, with some very kind expressions. 
 She has the talent of accommodating- her conversation 
 
 O 
 
 to the age, situation, and country of those she speaks 
 to in a high degree. Indeed, her address is pre- 
 eminently good. I supped with the reigning Duchess 
 the last evening. She kissed me with the utmost 
 sensibility at parting, and the whole family took leave 
 of me as if I were an old friend. The Princess 
 
2 2 Brunswick. 
 
 Abbess is most caressing. She is easy, lively, and 
 clever ; but I hear she is very false, extremely gal- 
 lant, and that she entirely governs the Duke, which 
 I should think difficult.* 
 
 Jan. 10. — Left Brunswick for Berlin, J27 English 
 miles. Just before I set out, the dear Duchess sent me 
 a letter of introduction to Prince Augustus at Berlin. 
 Travelled twenty-five miles through an unvaried ex- 
 panse of snow, bounded at a great distance by a few 
 rows of trees, which looked like dark lines across the 
 horizon. It appeared as if one was in the midst of 
 
 * We now know pretty intimately the whole Court of Brunswick, as 
 Lord Malmesbury found it on occasion of his mission to seek there a wife 
 for the Prince of Wales, some five years before the above was written. — 
 (See his Diaries and Correspondence, vol. iii.) I have been interested to 
 observe the almost exact coincidence of his judgment in respect of all the 
 persons who composed that Court with what is written here. It is true 
 that, having actually to transact important business with the Duke, he saw 
 the real weakness and vacillation of his character, as a woman with no such 
 opportunities was not likely to do. But of the Duchess Dowager he writes, 
 ' Nothing can be so open, so frank, and so unreserved as her manner j nor 
 so perfectly good-natured and unaffected ' (vol. iii. p. 155). In another 
 place, ' The Hereditary Prince and Princess vastly friendly j she a most 
 admirable character, all sense and judgment j he little of either, but very 
 harmless and good-natured' (p. 188). The Princess Augusta, Abbess of 
 Ganderscleim, he describes as 'clever in the Beatrix way' (p. 159), 'clever, 
 artful, and rather coming' (p. 165). — Ed. 
 
Berlin. 23 
 
 a wide sea of snow. Slept at Helmstedt, still in the 
 Duke of Brunswick's dominions. It is said to be one 
 of the oldest towns in Germany ; and I saw nothing 
 in its appearance to contradict the assertion. After a 
 journey in England, where all is busy, and populous, 
 and animated, one through this country conveys a 
 strange idea of privation and non-existence. 
 
 Jan. 14. — The gradual improvement of the country 
 from the moment you enter the King of Prussia's 
 territories is visible to the most careless observer. 
 Roads, plantations, neat cottages, pleasant country 
 seats, well-built towns and good inns, take place of the 
 appearance of poverty and depopulation so strongly 
 marked in that part of Germany I have hitherto seen. 
 
 Jan. 15. — A dull road to Berlin, where I arrived 
 early, and was settled immediately in the Prussian' 
 Hotel. The superiority in cleanliness and accommoda- 
 tion of the Prussian to the German inns is very great. 
 
 Jan. 16. — Sent to Prince Augustus a letter of intro- 
 duction given to me by the Duchess of Brunswick, 
 received a very civil answer, offering to arrange my 
 presentation at Court, and regretting that his illness did 
 
24 Berlin. 
 
 not allow him to visit me. It is said he is perfectly 
 well, but confines himself to avoid meeting the French 
 Ambassador. 
 
 Jan. 1 8. — Saw Mr. Garlike and Dr. Brown, the 
 only English gentlemen to whom I had brought letters. 
 Received from them every offer of assistance and 
 civility. Mr. Garlike is Secretary of Legation, Dr. 
 Brown physician to the King. 
 
 Jan. 21. — Was persuaded by Mr. Garlike to go to 
 an Italian opera in order to see the Queen. It was 
 the first of the eight given by the King to the public 
 at the time of the Carnival. The house is fine, and 
 properly lighted \ the royal box is in front, very wide, 
 and reaches from the ceiling to the pit. It is also 
 more lighted than the other boxes, which, added to its 
 size and situation, enables every individual in the 
 house to have a perfect view of the royal family. To 
 this box are admitted no women except those of royal 
 blood and their grancles mattresses. But, beside the 
 King and Princes, it is open to many officers of the 
 Court, all strangers, and the foreign Ministers. The 
 King is a well-looking man, the Queen extremely 
 beautiful. She is tall, finely-formed, her neck and 
 
Berlin. 25 
 
 shoulders particularly well-shaped, her hair light, and 
 her features small and agreeable. The prominent 
 traits of her character, as I am told, are the most 
 entire complaisance to every wish of the King, and the 
 most excessive passion for dress and for dancing, 
 particularly the waltz. She did not converse, but read 
 the opera book all the evening. She was dressed in a 
 purple satin round gown, drawn in the front like an 
 old-fashioned chemise, with a flat back and long 
 sleeves ; nothing on her head but two or three ban- 
 deaus, and her hair lightly powdered, 
 
 Monsieur de Burrau, Minister from I forget what 
 Court, accompanied me. I was engaged to go with 
 his wife, but her illness prevented it. Two other 
 ladies made acquaintance with me. The one was 
 Madame de Grotthaus, a prettyish, talkative, silly 
 woman, who addressed me in good English, and whose 
 obligingness was as prompt as the confidence she chose 
 to place in me ; for in about five minutes she offered 
 me, with many compliments, letters of recommenda- 
 tion to Vienna, and told me her particular fondness 
 for the English arose in part from her having had ' an 
 inclination ' for a young man of that nation : ' J'etais 
 tout pret a I'epouser; il etait fort aimable, tres lie avec 
 le Prince de Galles, tres riche ; il a unelelle terrepres 
 
26 Berlin. 
 
 de Londres, son nom commence par nn G — ; mais en Jin 
 j'ai epouse nn autre, ce militaire que vous voyez la, 
 hon homme, tout-a-fait aimahle, qui fait tout ce que je 
 v&ux.' 
 
 Jan. 22. — Just as I was going to dinner, Madame 
 de Haugwitz, the wife of the chief Minister, who 
 introduced herself to me last night by an encomium on 
 my dress, sent her tailor for the pattern of my gown, 
 begging that this person, whom, in a note he showed 
 me, she calls mon ami) would engage me to put it on, 
 that he might see what a good effect it had. I think 
 this intolerably free and easy, considering I am a per- 
 fect stranger. 
 
 Ten p.m. — I have just had a visit of two hours from 
 Prince Augustus. He is taller and larger than Prince 
 Adolphus, and much resembles the Prince of Wales. 
 His hair is too scientifically and studiously dressed to 
 be very becoming, but on the whole his exterior is to 
 be admired. He appears to have a fund of conversa- 
 tion, and great fluency. His vanity is so undisguised 
 that it wears the form of frankness, and therefore 
 gives no disgust. I mentioned to him that I had 
 heard of his excellence in singing, and he agreed that 
 he possessed it without the least hesitation, adding, c I 
 
Berlin. 27 
 
 had the most wonderful voice that was ever heard — 
 three octaves — and I do understand music. I practised 
 eight hours a day in Italy. One may boast of a voice, 
 as it is a gift of nature.' Yet his vanity is so blended 
 with civility and a desire to please, that I defy any 
 person with a good heart to dislike it. 
 
 Mad. de Ritz, mistress to the late King, amassed 
 a fortune of about eighty thousand louis. She was a 
 woman of very mean birth ; but induced the King, 
 about a year before his death, to ennoble her, and then 
 appeared at Court, which gave great offence. The 
 King had not been dead a quarter of an hour, when 
 she was arrested, hurried to a fortress, there to be 
 confined for life, and all her fortune, except an allow- 
 ance of four thousand crowns a-year, confiscated and 
 given to the poor. All this without a trial ! I lis- 
 tened, and blessed dear England. 
 
 The Lutheran religion, which is that professed 
 here, allows a man to marry two or more sisters 
 in succession ; and of this permission people often 
 avail themselves, as well as of obtaining a divorce, if 
 either party complain of incompatibility of temper, a 
 most convenient and sweeping cause of separation. At 
 this moment a pair, in the very first circle, are on the 
 point of obtaining a divorce, to enable the lady to marry 
 
2-8 Dresden. 
 
 a young officer, and the gentleman his wife's younger 
 sister. A woman may retain an unimpeached cha- 
 racter after an unlimited number of these separations. 
 Yet the King and Oueen give the best example pos- 
 sible. 
 
 The King of Prussia is supposed to be remarkably 
 economical. When he came to the throne in 1797, 
 there was not a guinea in the treasury, and it is now 
 supposed that in five years it will be as full as at the 
 death of the Great Frederic. In a few years more, 
 according to a calculation made, it will absorb all the 
 current coin of the country. 
 
 Feb. 18, Dresden. — The fatigues of my journey, 
 added to a violent cold, have left a wide chasm in my 
 diary. Left Berlin for this the 23rd of last month. 
 The hardships and dangers of this journey were 
 various. I one night ran a great risk of being lost in 
 the snow, the postillions having missed the track in an 
 extensive forest of fir trees. I was forced to keep 
 Fitz from falling asleep from the effects of intense cold, 
 which I knew to be certain death, by giving him re- 
 peated glasses of brandy out of the carriage window. 
 A distant light at last directed us to a cottage, where 
 we obtained a guide. I slept in the most wretched 
 
Dresden, 29 
 
 hovels, once was without a bed, and two days without 
 any food but eggs and coffee. At one of the post 
 houses the master thought it his duty to keep me 
 company while my servants supped. He was a 
 young man, above six feet high, covered with furs, 
 Vair fier et meme un pen farouche, with something 
 terrific in his whole appearance. He seated himself 
 opposite to me, smoked his pipe, laid his great paws 
 on my work, and began a conversation. I tried to 
 hide a vague sort of fear under the appearance of in- 
 souciance and civility, but at last took courage to say I 
 was sleepy, and would wish him good night. 
 
 Mr. Elliot,* our Minister at Dresden, is a very 
 pleasing man, about forty ; his style of conversation 
 and tone of voice are highly captivating. He has a 
 large family of little cherubs, and a charming daughter 
 who marries Mr. Paine this week. 
 
 March 10. — The society here possesses many very 
 charming individuals, but is not what the French call 
 montee sur un ton ogreahle, a phrase as easy to com- 
 prehend as difficult to translate. I think I see, and 
 
 * The Right Hon. Hugh Elliot, brother to the first Lord Minto. A few- 
 years later he proceeded to India as Governor of Madras, and died in 
 London about the year 1822. — Ed. 
 
30 Dresden. 
 
 am sure I feel^ a certain constraint, which destroys 
 all enjoyment. I have scarcely ever been less at my 
 ease than in the company I have frequented since my 
 arrival. Yet I have not wanted that encouragement 
 which is usually all that is necessary to inspire confi- 
 dence. Mr. Elliot in general makes me a daily visit, 
 and when he omits it, apologises as for a breach of 
 duty. I have constant invitations to his house, where 
 I always find a small party and a little sociable supper. 
 Adadame de Miinster, my most intimate female 
 acquaintance, forgets nothing which can contribute to 
 my amusement. I have gone with her to morning 
 exhibitions and evening assemblies. Among the 
 latter, that of Madame de Loss, wife to the first 
 Minister, was most brilliant — as much so as any I have 
 seen in London. A numerous suite of rooms, fur- 
 nished with taste ; a very large society, dressed with 
 more magnificence, though not with as much elegance, 
 as in England \ and a hostess whose address and ap- 
 pearance would dignify any situation. She is near 
 sixty, but still a very fine woman, her looks English, 
 her manners French. I saw a good collection of pic- 
 tures at the Comte de Hagendorn's, where I break- 
 fasted. A St. Sebastian, by Raphael, was the most 
 remarkable piece. I did not think a martyrdom 
 
Dresden. 31 
 
 could be so pleasing. I forgot the arrow in his 
 breast because he seemed to have done so himself, 
 and, like him, I was too much absorbed in the thought 
 of his approaching beatitude not to be insensible to the 
 idea of mere bodily pain. It is a wonderfully fine 
 picture. At the first glance you approve, after a 
 moment's examination you admire, and from admira- 
 tion you pass to that state in which the whole soul is 
 concentrated in the eyes ; you cease to approve or 
 admire, you only feel^ and, having totally forgot the 
 artist, identify yourself with the object he has created. 
 Yesterday I was presented at Court. Here it is an 
 evening assembly without any form. The Electress 
 has the greatest good humour, ease, and condescension 
 in her manner. The Elector has something fixed, 
 glassy, and embarrassing in his eyes. Their only 
 child is a fine young woman, about seventeen. The 
 whole family, I need not say, receive strangers with 
 the utmost politeness, for this seems to me so universal 
 in Germany, it ceases to be the object of a remark. 
 The Elector is said to be a good and a religious man. 
 Even those who seem to dislike him do not contest 
 this point. The Electress said she now gave no 
 balls, because the Elector disapproves of such plea- 
 sures while Europe was in its present unhappy state. 
 
32 Dresden. 
 
 The Court never mix in society. When the Elector's 
 uncle was at Dresden, dying, for several months, none 
 of his family visited him, as he was not within the 
 walls of the palace, and it would have been a breach 
 of etiquette. At Mad. de Loss's, Alexis Orloff was 
 presented to me, and I was introduced to his daughter. 
 He does not look like the frontispiece to his History. 
 His figure is colossal and massy, but his air is not 
 savage, and his countenance is rather mild than other- 
 wise. The recollection of the atrocities that he had 
 committed embarrassed me so, that I retain no very 
 distinct idea of his person and address.* He does not 
 speak French, but we conversed a little in Italian. 
 His daughter has a pleasing address. She is pale, 
 sallow, and delicate in her appearance, with a gentle, 
 modest demeanour, and fine expressive dark eyes. 
 She wore no ornaments except rows of the finest 
 
 * He and his two brothers, as is well known, strangled with their own 
 hands Peter III., the husband of Catherine, and laid thus the foundations 
 of their fortunes. But his name is branded with a crime of yet deeper 
 dye, and of an almost incredible baseness. A young daughter of the 
 Empress Elizabeth was living in extreme poverty and obscurity in Italy, 
 whom Catherine, jealous of a possible pretender to the throne, desired to 
 get within her power. Alexis Orloff found her out at Rome, married 
 her, lured her away from her safe refuge in Italy, and delivered her to 
 Catherine. She died in a Russian dungeon. — Ed. 
 
(^ OF THE \ 
 
 UNIVERSITY 
 Of 
 
 Dresden. 33 
 
 pearls. Orloff adores her, and declares she shall 
 marry 7 whomsoever she pleases. She conversed in 
 very good French, and speaks English wonderfully 
 well in proportion to the time she has learned it. Her 
 father wears the picture of Catherine the Second 
 covered, instead of crystal, with a single diamond. 
 
 March 12. — Dresden is filled with foreigners from 
 all parts, chiefly Poles and Russians. Of the latter 
 Mr. Elliot told me two horrid anecdotes. He was 
 invited to dine with a Russian major ; and one of his 
 servants, a recruit who had been thought too sickly to 
 serve in the army, laid the cloth rather awkwardly. 
 His master beat him furiously, first with a stick, 
 next with an iron bar. c Good heavens,' cried Mr. 
 Elliot, c you will kill the man.' c Vv 7 hv,' replied 
 the Major, c it is very hard that I have killed seven or 
 eight, and never been able to make a good servant 
 yet.' At another time Mr. Elliot dined with a 
 gentleman who talked of the aversion the Cossacks 
 had to the Jews. c Now, I dare say,' cried he, c this 
 little fellow behind me,' turning to a Cossack of about 
 thirteen, c has dispatched them by the score. Come, 
 tell me how many did you ever kill at once.' ' The 
 most I ever killed at once was eleven,' answered the 
 
 D 
 
34 Dresden. 
 
 young savage, with a grin. ' Impossible !' said Mr. 
 Elliot, c that boy could have killed eleven men !' 
 1 Oh yes,' answered he, i for my father bound their 
 hands, and I stabbed them.' 
 
 March 14. — The Princess Fiirstenberg and Mad. 
 Miinster increase their attentions daily. I have been 
 confined by a cold in consequence of a round of visits 
 paid to the wives of the different Ministers previous to 
 being presented. I did not expect to be admitted, 
 and was not prepared in my dress for going up and 
 down immense flights of stone stairs in frost and snow. 
 My indisposition has given these amiable women an 
 opportunity of showing an unceasing kindness (I wish, 
 however, it did not display itself so much in writing 
 notes). The Princess heard me wish one evening for 
 the translation of a German poem, and sat up till three 
 o'clock next morning to accomplish it, that I might 
 receive it the moment I woke. 
 
 March 16. — Last night I was invited to a supper at 
 the Prussian Minister's. The company were chiefly 
 Russians ; five English were asked, and Lavalette, the 
 French Envoy, and his wife, were also of the party. 
 It has caused great sensation here, as it is said that it 
 
Prague — Iglaw. 35 
 
 was highly improper for a person in that line to in- 
 vite either Russians or English to meet Lavalette. I 
 did not go, but I have seen him and his wife at a 
 public ball. He is unpowdered, mean, squat, and 
 dirty. She is prettyish, and very becomingly drest, 
 but without much attention to decency. Her arm is 
 quite bare, from the bottom of her sleeve, about an 
 inch below her shoulder, to the top of her glove, about 
 an inch above her elbow. 
 
 March 20, Prague. — Left Dresden for Vienna, and 
 slept last night here. Prague, as you approach it, has 
 an appearance of grandeur. It is, however, though 
 spacious, a dirty, ill-built town, with very high houses, 
 and very narrow streets. I was so fatigued, I re- 
 mained to-day at the inn [Rothes Hans) where 
 Suwarrow lived three months of the last year. He 
 rose every day at two hours after midnight, dined at 
 eight, and went to bed at three. ' He is a great bigot 
 and great hog,' the waiter told me, of whom I asked 
 two or three questions about him, but was soon 
 obliged to desist. 
 
 March 22. — Dined and slept at Iglaw, a neat-look- 
 ing town. How much exaggerated is the account I 
 
 d 2 
 
36 Vienna. 
 
 have heard of the discomforts of a German journey. 
 The post-boys are civil, and not in the least importu- 
 nate. They seldom ask for more than they receive ; 
 a simple denial silences them, and what we call in 
 England grumbling, I have never heard in this country. 
 Even the beggars (and in Bohemia they abound) ask 
 with mildness, and desist at the first refusal. 
 
 March 26, Vienna. — Arrived here two days ago, after 
 making in six days a journey usually very much dreaded, 
 without a single inconvenience or the smallest fatigue. 
 I travelled about fifty miles daily, after leaving Prague. 
 Vienna, I fancy, cannot be a healthy residence ; the 
 houses are so high, the streets so narrow, and the 
 population so disproportioned to the size of the town. 
 One can walk round the walls in an hour; yet 
 it contains 53,000 inhabitants. The best shops are 
 far inferior to those even in the obscure parts of the 
 city in London. Saw the Comtesse de Wayna, who 
 returned my visit in less than an hour. She is very 
 polite, empressee, and conversible ; a very handsome 
 woman, and still young. 
 
 March 28. — It grieves me to find travelling contri- 
 bute so little to the improvement of my mind. A 
 
Vienna. 37 
 
 variety of causes operates to prevent the possibility 
 of a woman reaping muck benefit from a journey 
 through Germany, unless she totally gives up the 
 world. A certain enlargement of ideas must imper- 
 ceptibly follow, and she corrects some erroneous 
 notions ; but she finds infinite difficulty in making any 
 new acquirements. The multiplicity of visits, not 
 confined to leaving a card, as in London, but real sub- 
 stantial, bodily visits, and the impossibility, without 
 overstepping all the bounds of custom, of associating 
 with any but noblesse^ may be reckoned among the 
 greatest obstacles. To make travelling subservient 
 to improvement, it must be undertaken on a different 
 plan from my present journey. I believe there is no 
 undertaking whatever, in which the first attemDt is 
 not condemned to many gross and obvious imperfec- 
 tions. No foresight, no reflection, no sagacity, and, 
 I had almost said, no advice, can supply the want of 
 experience, even in situations where it appears least 
 necessary. It is a melancholy consideration that we 
 only know how to live, when the chief pleasures of 
 life, those attendant on youth and youthful spirits, 
 are vanished for ever. 
 
 Last night I went to an assembly at Lord Minto's ; 
 the only difference between this meeting, and one of 
 
38 Vienna. 
 
 the same kind in London, was that here I saw infi- 
 nitely less beauty, particularly among the men, less 
 elegance of dress, and less of those abstractions of dif- 
 ferent pairs from the rest of the society, which I must 
 call c flirtation,' spite of the vulgarity of the term. 
 Steibelt* played exquisitely on the pianoforte. So in- 
 teresting a performer I never heard. After he had 
 executed a delightful capriccio^ he gave some jigs, in 
 which his wife accompanied him on the tambourine ; 
 and these miserable trifles, in which he was quite sub- 
 servient to her playing, and sacrificed himself to cover 
 her little inaccuracies in point of time, were more 
 admired than his scientific delightful compositions. 
 Accompanying a fine pianoforte player on the tam- 
 bourine is like daubing rouge over a Madonna by 
 Raphael ; but it shows a pretty woman to advantage, 
 and suits the frivolous false taste of the age. 
 
 The coarseness of the German language, and the 
 patchwork made use of to conceal its poverty in some 
 instances, displease me. Its beauties are said to be 
 considerable. More study will lead me to a knowledge 
 of it, but a little suffices to enable one to discover faults. 
 
 * Born 1756, died 1823. The Conversations-Lexicon says, 'Sein 
 Clavierspiel war glanzend 3 auch improvisirte er glucklich.' 
 
Vienna. 39 
 
 March 29. — I walked and drove in the Prater, that 
 great boast of the Germans, who think those who have 
 not seen it, have seen nothing. As far as I went to- 
 day, I was on a straight wide road, shaded with trees, 
 that led through an extensive plain, moderately wooded, 
 and perfectly flat. In summer it must be very plea- 
 sant, but a complete flat excludes in my mind all ideas 
 of pre-eminent beauty. I could as soon think in the 
 living countenance that fine colours or features could 
 be beautiful without expression, as that any verdure, 
 any trees, or any river could make amends for the 
 want of inequality of ground. 
 
 April 13. — Before I had been a week here, I had 
 so many engagements I was only embarrassed in the 
 choice of them. The pleasantest hours I have spent 
 were at Lord Minto's, Prince Schwarzenberg's, and 
 the Hanoverian Minister's. There I sat by the famous 
 General Bellegarde, to whom it is said the Archduke 
 Charles is chiefly indebted for his most brilliant suc- 
 cesses.* He is highly agreeable in conversation, 
 
 * This is certainly a mistake. Field-Marshal Bellegarde was a very- 
 distinguished officer, who, whether serving under the Archduke Charles, as 
 at Aspern, or holding independent military commands, which he often 
 did, always acquitted himself excellently well j but there are not, I 
 believe, the slightest grounds for the suggestion in the text. — Ed. 
 
40 Vienna. 
 
 polite, lively, pleasing, the best ton possible, and the 
 most rational way of thinking. They say he is the 
 person most in the confidence of Thugut, the Minister. 
 He is about fifty, and his appearance gives a favour- 
 able impression of him. Lord Minto is very pleasing, 
 when he does converse ; but like a ghost, will rarely 
 speak till spoken to, unless to his most intimate friends. 
 He is criticised here for not representing with sufficient 
 dignity, and for confining himself to a small circle, 
 composed chiefly of Poles and French. He is ex- 
 tremely absent. The Empress gives him audiences, 
 and he forgets the day. He accepts invitations to 
 formal dinners, invites company for the same day, and 
 thinks no more of his engagement. A person here 
 painted very happily in one sentence his absence, and 
 his want of those manners in his own house which 
 ought to distinguish him as the master of it, by saying, 
 c< II se fera presenter ', quelque jour, chez lui." On 
 the whole, he is censured for his conduct in trifles \ 
 and of his political career I have heard no opinion, for 
 politics are a subject scrupulously avoided. This is 
 commanded by the laws, and they seem in this point 
 exactly obeyed. Deep regrets for the loss of Joseph 
 the Second are all that ever escapes, which has the most 
 remote tendency that way. Yet many here think that 
 
Vienna, 4 1 
 
 he did much harm as well as good ; that his spirit of 
 improvement led him to risk too hasty innovations, 
 and that he was so ardent in his desire defaire le bleu, 
 he did not give himself leisure de le bleu falre. I have 
 met likewise with a very amiable woman to whom the 
 Countess Miinster recommended me. She is a 
 Berlinoise, and the widow of Prince Reuss, but is 
 received in very few of the first circles here, on 
 account of her birth, her father having been a mer- 
 chant. She was originally a Jewess. I went to Mad. 
 Arnstein's with her, which I fear was a breach of 
 etiquette, Mad. Arnstein being a banker's wife, and 
 of the second class of noblesse. However, I found 
 there a pleasant society, and an easier ton than in 
 most houses at Vienna. She keeps open house every 
 evening to a few women, and all the best company in 
 Vienna as to men. She is a pretty woman with an 
 excellent address. I supped once at the Prince de 
 Ligne's, whom I was prepared to fear and admire as a 
 most aimable roue, plein d 9 esprit, et de talens. I 
 have yet seen in him no resemblance to any part of 
 this picture. In general, conversation at Vienna seems 
 to me but meagre ; little events are magnified, as in a 
 small town ; politics never, and literature very seldom, 
 mentioned. 
 
42 Vienna. 
 
 April 14. — The Ridotto, a very large fine room, 
 well lighted, most people in their usual dresses — no 
 brilliancy of dress, or whimsicality, or variety of 
 character. Those who masque, merely disguise them- 
 selves, without assuming any particular costume. 
 
 April 17. — Breakfasted at Lady Taafre's, to see the 
 Emperor pass by to St. Stephen's, in honour of the 
 citizens of Vienna, who, on the anniversary of this 
 day four years ago, rose en masse, and took arms to 
 oppose Buonaparte. The occasion of the fete made 
 it interesting \ dazzling it was not, for the Emperor, 
 who is averse to all unnecessary parade, was in a 
 plain coach, without guards or any outward sign of 
 royalty. All the citizens who took arms, marched in 
 a body, with their officers at their head, and military 
 music. The spectators made a most pleasing part of 
 the spectacle ; not a beggar, or ragged or dirty person 
 to be seen. All were well clothed, and had the ap- 
 pearance of enjoying habitually the comforts of life. 
 The Emperor is easy of access, and two days in the 
 week may be approached by the meanest of his subjects. 
 He is averse to all pomp, lives in his own family, and 
 is attached to his own wife, which in Germany is a 
 singular thing, as a mistress is almost considered here 
 
Vienna. 43 
 
 as a necessary part of the establishment of a married 
 man. He appears at the Prater in the plainest carriage, 
 driving the Empress, who scarcely ever leaves him. 
 She is not beautiful, but possesses, I am told, a 
 thousand graces ; is highly accomplished \ mistress 
 both of the theory and practice of music, and an ex- 
 cellent mineralogist. I dined to-day at Prince 
 Esterhazy's, one of the greatest among the Hungarian 
 noblemen. He has a million florins a-year, but is 
 greatly in debt. He was not at home, but the 
 Princess is a charming, unaffected, pretty woman 
 about thirty. 
 
 April 20.— Dined at Prince Colloredo's. His wife, 
 though very civil, could not conceal her joy that I was 
 soon to go to England, because I was to be succeeded 
 by a gold muslin, which I have promised to buy for 
 her. The abundance of pearls and diamonds worn 
 here is absolutely dazzling. I am told they are all 
 entailed. 
 
 May 2.— I have dined three days this week at the 
 houses of the Ministers. This is no compliment, 
 beins: a matter of course. There are about forty 
 
 o 
 
 persons present at these entertainments. The dinners 
 
44 Vienna. 
 
 do not appear superlatively good, and would not, I 
 believe, content an English epicure. They all begin 
 at three, end before five ; coffee and cards succeed ; 
 one retires about six, and, if one chooses, returns at 
 nine to an assembly in the same house. — Among the 
 modes here, I chiefly dislike the use of running foot- 
 men. It is so cruel, and so unnecessary. These 
 unhappy people always precede the carriage of their 
 masters in town, and sometimes even to the suburbs. 
 They seldom live above three or four years, and 
 generally die of consumption. Fatigue and disease are 
 painted in their pallid and drawn features ; but, like 
 victims, they are crowned with flowers, and adorned 
 with tinsel. 
 
 May 7.— Was presented by the Baroness de la 
 Vallaise to the Emperor and Empress. He receives 
 quite alone, she with two ladies of honour ; so in fact 
 you merely pay them a morning visit. He has a mild 
 countenance ; she has as much gentleness in her ex- 
 pression, with more animation. Both are extremely 
 gracious, and it appears nature, and not art. They 
 place themselves on a level with you, and do not 
 remind you that they descend. She is not handsome, 
 but very pleasing. She was well dressed, in white 
 
Vienna. 45 
 
 silk ; in her hair, which seems very fine and was 
 dressed with powder, she wore a row of emeralds, 
 each set flat, and surrounded with diamonds. A 
 trimming on the front of her gown, and her necklace 
 and ear-rings, were all of the same kind. 
 
 May Ti.— Supped with Mad. Divoff. Madame de 
 KalitschofF, the Russian Embassadress, a lively pretty 
 woman, was so impatient for the pattern of my combs, 
 that she pulled them out of my head, without the least 
 reluctance to discompose my toilette, and put them 
 into her own. 
 
 May 12. — Saw the Hungarian Guard in gala, a 
 most beautiful sight. Seventy-two young men, the 
 flower of the Hungarian nobility, magnificently and 
 tastefully dressed, mounted on white horses, finely 
 shaped and full of spirit. The costume is rich, yet 
 so well fancied that it adds to personal dignity, which 
 most splendid dresses diminish. It is composed of a 
 scarlet vest and trousers, made to the shape, 
 with green belt, scarf, and yellow half-boots, all richly 
 trimmed and embroidered with silver. A tiger's skin 
 is fancifully disposed on the back, and covers half of 
 the left arm. A very lofty fur cap, ornamented with 
 
46 Vienna, 
 
 green and silver, Is completed with a heron's feather. 
 Upon the whole it is rich, yet not heavy ; splendid, 
 yet not gaudy ; and while every part is ornamental, 
 none seems to impede the exertion of strength or 
 activity. 
 
 May 16. — Found the Princess Rosamoffska at 
 home in a delicious country-house, or, as they 
 call it here, garden — very like Richmond. I 
 find her extremely pleasing. She is one of the 
 daughters of Madame de Thune, the Madame de 
 Sevigne of Vienna. Her husband was a ci-devant 
 Russian Minister, and I see she has a large share of 
 the general antipathy to the Emperor. She asked me 
 if I had seen two excellent caricatures of him. In 
 the first he writes with one hand Ordr&y with the 
 other Contre-ordre^ while on his forehead is written 
 Desordre. In the second, Peter the Great is repre- 
 sented with a torch he appears to have just lighted ; 
 Catherine the Second has a pair of snuffers to 
 make it burn still brighter, and poor Paul an extin- 
 guisher. I left Madame Rosamoffska much pleased 
 with her conversation, and the jirevenante vivacity 
 of her manners. 
 
Vienna. 47 
 
 May 28. — Dined with the Count de la Gardie, 
 Swedish Minister. The Hanoverian and Prussian 
 Ministers were of the party. The gentlemen, accord- 
 ing: to the Swedish custom, were called into the ante- 
 room a moment before dinner to drink brandy and 
 eat bread-and-butter. At dinner, the conversation 
 turned on Italy. Count Divoff, a Russian, said, 
 u Vete procliahi firai en Italie ; alors les rois seront 
 tons sur leurs trones, et Vordre retabli." Count 
 Keller, the Prussian Minister, said with an air of 
 persiflage — at least, I thought it such — " II est vrai 
 que c'est un espoir auquel il ne faut pas renoncer" 
 One assigned cause for Sir Charles Whitworth's dis- 
 grace with the Court of Russia is curious. The 
 Emperor had given orders no empty carriage should 
 pass a certain part of the palace. Sir Charles, igno- 
 rant of this, had left his coach to speak with a work- 
 man, and desired it mig-ht drive on and meet him at a 
 distance. The sentinel stopped the carriage ; the 
 servants insisted on driving on; a scuffle ensued. 
 The Emperor, ever on the watch about trifles, in- 
 quired into the cause of the dispute, and, on learning 
 it, ordered the servants to be beat, the horses to be 
 beat, and the coach to be beat (Xerxes lashing the 
 sea ! ). Sir Charles Whitworth, by way of washing off 
 
48 Vienna. 
 
 this stain, ordered his servants to be discharged, his 
 horses to be shot, his carriage, after being broken into 
 a thousand pieces, to be thrown into the river. The 
 Emperor, indignant at this mark of offended pride, 
 insisted on his recall. 
 
 June 4. — At Count Keller's, the Prussian Minister's, 
 heard Marchetti, the first woman singer at Berlin. 
 She has a very powerful expression, too powerful, per- 
 haps, except for the stage, and a very brilliant execu- 
 tion, too much ornamented, perhaps, for the generality 
 of her hearers. Her voice has, upon the whole, more 
 strength than sweetness, though it is said some of her 
 low tones resemble Marchesi. Supped with the 
 Princesse de Lorraine, once the most beautiful woman 
 of her time. She retained, though past sixty, very 
 splendid remains, and has an uncommon share of 
 grace and dignity. From the pension of 12,000 florins 
 allowed her by the Emperor, she supports several of 
 her friends, relations, and even acquaintances. 
 
 June 6. — I passed this morning with Mad. de la 
 Gardie, wife to the Swedish Minister. She is very 
 kind to me, and I have at her house that easy ingress 
 and egress which I prefer to formal invitations. We 
 
Vienna. 49 
 
 went together to see Fiiger's paintings.* He is a fine 
 artist, and a sincere enthusiast. I believe he ranks 
 very high in the first class of historical painters. His 
 c Death of Virginia ' is a beautiful performance. 
 Her father has just stabbed her ; Appius, who is 
 elevated on the tribune from which he had given 
 sentence, remains petrified in the posture into which 
 he had thrown himself from the involuntary motion 
 by which we mechanically attempt to save an object in 
 danger, even when we know and feel our help comes 
 too late. The expression, ordonnance^ and colouring 
 of this picture are all charming. I also saw his 
 drawings from Klopstock's Messiah — wild, fanciful, 
 expressive. The dream of Judas, suggested by Satan, 
 who appears with his hand on the culprit's heart, while 
 his guardian angel mournfully retires, particularly 
 struck me ; as did the restoration of one of the fallen 
 angels, who has repented, is forgiven, and recovers 
 his pristine dignity and beauty. Fiiger is a tall, well 
 looking man, about forty, his countenance is placid, his 
 
 * Fiiger was born in 175 t, and died at Vienna in 1818. German 
 critics in art speak very highly of his genius, especially as manifested in 
 the design and composition of his pictures. His illustrations of Klopstock's 
 Messiah, spoken of in the text, are always considered his greatest work. — 
 Ed. 
 
 E 
 
50 Vienna. 
 
 eye is open, clear, and attractive — I mean, invites you 
 to look into it, and to repose your soul on his. I have 
 seen this in but few eyes, and they generally belonged 
 to persons who combined genius with simplicity. 
 After he had explained to me the subjects of his 
 drawings from Klopstock, and regretted I could not 
 understand him in German, he took down an Italian 
 translation, and began to read it to me. Mad. de la 
 Gardie became impatient to go ; however he went on. 
 At last she tore me away ; but not till Fiiger put the 
 book into my hand, exclaiming, ' Lisez, lisez; cela 
 vous tonrnera la tete } et vous echauffera le sang. 1 — It is 
 said Cesario, the resident Charge d? Affaires here from 
 Berlin, has orders from Haugwitz to carry on a nego- 
 tiation with Thugut without the participation of Keller. 
 Cesario had borrowed from the latter some maps j in 
 returning which he sent him by mistake a letter from 
 Thugut, that discovered their secret intercourse. 
 Keller, enraged, wrote a remonstrance to Haugwitz, 
 which, it is also said, has procured his recal. This 
 story is denied by La Gardie, the friend of Keller, who 
 affirms that Cesario, a confirmed Jacobin, attempted 
 to intrigue, without being authorized by his Court, and 
 is to be himself recalled. Keller, La Gardie, and La 
 Vallaise live much together ; Lord Minto extremely 
 
Vienna. 51 
 
 apart from all the Foreign Ministers. Query, if this 
 is good policy in his Lordship ? 
 
 June 12. — I forgot to mention having dined in the 
 course of last month with Count Cobenzl, who 
 desired me to make my own party, and devoted a day 
 to showing me his delightful grounds. He is a farmer 
 as well as an embellisher of nature, and has such a 
 cowhouse, &c, as I have never seen in any country. 
 I also dined last month at Dornbach, and saw the villa 
 of Marechal Lacy, where nature has performed her 
 part in the most exquisite manner, but where art has 
 been impertinently busy. Great are the beauties of 
 both these places. Count Cobenzl's, however, dis- 
 plays a purity of taste which is not to be found at the 
 Marechal's. — Saw this day from the windows of 
 Baroness Spielman, the public adoration of the Host 
 by the Emperor and Empress. The procession which 
 appears in honour of this day, the Fete Dieu, is the 
 most splendid and brilliant Vienna ever displays. The 
 Emperor and Empress, Grand Duke of Tuscany, 
 Palatine, ladies of the Court in gala dresses, friars of 
 the different Orders, children maintained by charitable 
 institutions, vicars of all the churches with painted 
 banners, German and Hungarian Guards, officers of 
 
 e 2 
 
52 Vienna. 
 
 those regiments who rose en masse to oppose the 
 French, &c. &c, all proceed to church. The Em- 
 peror, Empress, &c, go in state coaches, but return 
 on foot, preceded by the Host, to which they kneel 
 for some minutes in different streets. He was dressed 
 in uniform, with the Order of Maria Theresa, she in 
 a silver muslin gown, her hair dressed somewhat a 
 Vantiqiie, powdered and ornamented with roses and 
 festoons of pearls. The ceremony would, in my 
 opinion, have been much more impressive with a mix- 
 ture of martial and religious music. 
 
 June 15-17 • — Three days at Baden, a small town 
 two posts from Vienna, celebrated for its warm 
 sulphureous baths. They appear convenient and well 
 attended. In the largest, men and women of the best 
 society bathe together, and appear very much to enjoy 
 the amusement. The gentlemen are in shirts and 
 trousers j the ladies in their usual white morning 
 dresses, and on their heads caps, handkerchiefs, laces, 
 and ribbon, fancifully and becomingly disposed. It is 
 the triumph of real beauty and freshness, as no rouge 
 can be worn or paint of any kind. The bath opens a 
 vast field for coquetry. A becoming dishabille, graceful 
 attitudes, timidity, languor, and an affectionate con- 
 
Vienna. 53 
 
 fidence in your conductor, may here all be displayed 
 to advantage. The lover leads his mistress, and has 
 perhaps a secret satisfaction in finding himself with her 
 in a new element \ for Mad. de Genlis observes, I 
 think with truth, that to those who really love every 
 new situation in company with the beloved has a certain 
 charm. Many of those who have no lovers obtain, 
 however, half a conductor, as every man who is not 
 devoted generally gives each arm to a different lady. 
 The old, the plain, and the neglected sit round on 
 benches, as it is dangerous for women to walk about 
 in the bath without a guide. Spectators are admitted, 
 who view the scene from a little gallery. To them 
 the heat and sulphureous smell is very unpleasant. 
 The situation of this village is agreeable, among 
 hills, which, though minute, are of a romantic cha- 
 racter. An eclnse^ in a very wild spot, at about ten 
 minutes' distance, has been made to receive the wood 
 which has floated on the river from the mountains. It 
 mingles ideas of industry and ingenuity with those of 
 peace and retirement, a contrast that always pleases. 
 
 June 19. — Dined yesterday at Prince Staremberg's, 
 
 where I saw Count , just returned from Russia, 
 
 who told a thousand strange stories of the Emperor's 
 
54 Vienna. 
 
 frivolity, punctilio, and pride. He now fears he shall 
 see the ghost of Catherine (a sublime apparition ! ) ; and 
 one night under the influence of this apprehension 
 leaped out of bed, and threw down the chairs and 
 tables in his haste to take shelter in the chimney. 
 The Empress, who slept near his room, terrified at 
 the noise, arose, and not finding the Emperor, called 
 his attendants. They examined the apartments, and 
 discovered the place of his retreat. He was so 
 ashamed of the ridicule he felt conscious of having 
 incurred, that he put the Empress under arrest, with 
 strict orders never to come uncalled into his chamber. 
 I mentioned the conversation of yesterday at the Count 
 de la Gardie's, where I dined to-day. c Ge Monsieur J 
 said he, { f era fortune a Vienne, ou c'est la mode de 
 medire de VEmpereur de Russie.' 
 
 June 27. — Dined at Marechal Lacy's — a large party 
 — his invitation was in the spirit of ancient chivalry, 
 begging ' Vhonneur de me servir a diner.' This de- 
 lightful old man does the honours of his house per- 
 fectly. He seemed quite grieved at parting from me, 
 and pressed my hand most affectionately as he put me 
 into the carriage. 
 
Vienna. 55 
 
 June 30. — Went to a concert at Dr. Franc's. He 
 is a physician, who is supposed to have great skill in 
 his profession. His son's wife sings remarkably well, 
 and with some other amateurs performed the opera of 
 The Horatii and Guriatii — the words Metastasio's, the 
 music Cimarosa's — the former very poetical and affect- 
 ing, the latter brilliant, pathetic, and expressive. I 
 find the noblesse can sometimes wave etiquette, and 
 sacrifice their dignity to their amusement, for the 
 auditors were chiefly of the first class. 
 
 July 3-7. — Dined one day at Prince Staremberg's, 
 whose garden is much admired here, and would be 
 thought very tasteless in England. He is, I see, de- 
 lighted with a little muddy rivulet, flowing a very 
 short, but serpentine way through two heaps of stones 
 piled on each side, and ending to the left in a small 
 pool, with an island in it, about the size and shape of 
 a plate, and to the right in a cascade that falls about 
 ten feet down five or six regular steps. c Cela va 
 toujoursj said he triumphantly, c et cela m'a coute 
 f rente mllle florins.'' I dined also again with the 
 Arnsteins, who I see hate the Austrian government. 
 She is a Prussian, and, according to the late cant 
 phrase, c that accounts for it.' 
 
56 Vienna. 
 
 July to. — The nobility here do not disdain any 
 branch of commerce or mercantile speculation, not 
 even usury. Prince Staremberg, Marechal Kinski, 
 
 and the Prince de * are the chief usurers. The 
 
 Duchess de Giovane was employed by the Queen of 
 Naples to negotiate a loan of four millions, and had re- 
 course to the latter, who modestly asked twenty per cent, 
 interest, saying to her, c Madame, quant a I' argent y je 
 vous declare je ne suis pas delicat ; je suis tout a fait 
 marcliand. Je suis accoutume a jpreter mon argent 
 a 20 pour ioo, et je ne puis le faire a moms' The 
 great people here also make a practice of selling wine 
 in as small a quantity as five bottles, or a florin's 
 worth, at a time. Prince Staremberg will even con- 
 sent to sell a single tree out of his favourite garden, if 
 any one offers a sufficient price for it. 
 
 July 14. — Was presented at Duke Albert's, where 
 I thought myself in England ; his looks and manners 
 so much resemble those of an Englishman of high 
 fashion. He is son to the late King of Poland. 
 Mad. de Menee, a lady who is not related to him, but 
 was grande maUresse to his late wife, lives in his 
 
 The name is illegible in the MS. — Ed. 
 
Vienna. 57 
 
 house, and presides at his parties. This is not 
 thought singular here. At the Duke's, which appears 
 incontestably the pleasantest house at Vienna, saw the 
 Duchess of Riario, his niece — a fine woman, between 
 twenty and thirty, extremely advantageously dressed, 
 with a tolerably handsome face, and great ease, nay, 
 even confidence of manner. 
 
 July 18. — Dined at La Gardie's — read Les Meres 
 Rivales aloud, while she made a couvre-pied for her 
 approaching confinement ; her mother worked a cap 
 for the babe, and he sat down to his netting ; it was 
 a black shawl for his wife. A fine tall man, a soldier, 
 too, with a very martial appearance, netting a shawl 
 for his wife, amused me. I leave Vienna to-morrow. 
 
 Desultory BemarJcs. — Upon the whole, Vienna is no 
 place of gay dissipation, except in the Carnival. The 
 spectacles are but indifferent, the assemblies but little 
 frequented, there are few concerts and no balls. 
 Married women, or if one happens to be clianoinesse, 
 which confers the same privileges, go about to all 
 places without a companion of their own sex ; and 
 those who are of notorious bad character are received 
 in all societies with as much em_pressement as those of 
 
58 Vienna. 
 
 the very best conduct. The few really virtuous 
 women do not make a class apart, but associate indis- 
 criminately, and even form friendships, with those who 
 are most notoriously otherwise. Scandal is a vice 
 totally unknown ; its most general object among 
 women is here not disgraceful, so hardly ever made a 
 topic, and, when mentioned, spoken of without cen- 
 sure or enlargement. The best feature in the character 
 of the society at Vienna is a universal appearance of 
 good nature. The young Germans do not associate 
 much with women, and as the various subjects of 
 political information which are necessary to an Eng- 
 lishman are merely matters of speculation under a 
 despotic government, one great motive to study which 
 exists among us is here cut off. Classical knowledge 
 is not thought essential to the education of a gentle- 
 man \ study, in general, not a favourite pursuit ; and 
 reading scarcely considered as an amusement. Conse- 
 quently the young Austrians do not excel in the art of 
 conversation, nor do they even possess what we call 
 small talk, from mixing so little with women of 
 fashion. They dance and ride, but I believe the 
 variety of sports and exercises which give a graceful 
 exterior, is quite unknown to them. They have little 
 grace, and scarcely any beauty. 
 
Vienna. 5 9 
 
 Upon the whole, however, I love the German 
 character. Calmness and mildness are its most pro- 
 minent features. Cruelty is a vice here totally un- 
 known, with all its attendants, roughness, brutality, 
 oaths, loud speech, &c. As to importunity and ser- 
 vility, they are alike banished from the land. The 
 beggar asks charity without whining or clamour, and 
 if not immediately relieved, desists without reproach. 
 I would advise every one who has irritable nerves to 
 reside in this country. He will see none of those 
 melancholy objects who awake pity, and hear none of 
 those atrocities which excite horror. Safe under the 
 guardianship of a mild but vigilant police, he may 
 travel over unfrequented heaths at all hours of the 
 night, and may lie down and sleep in full security, 
 without even the precaution of locking his door. He 
 may walk about the streets in any costume without 
 being insulted, and he may carry his whole fortune 
 about him without any danger of losing it by the dis- 
 honesty of others. C'est defendu acts in this country 
 with the force the most violent penal laws do not pos- 
 sess in England. At the play a lady said to me, 
 c On ne siffle joins an spectacle ; c'est defendu* Upon 
 the whole, the facility which strangers who are highly 
 recommended find in establishing themselves in good 
 
GO Prague — Carlsbad. 
 
 society, the variety created by the concourse of people 
 from all parts of the world, the points of national cha- 
 racter I have already stated, and the extreme beauty of 
 the country, make Vienna a delightful residence. It 
 is also, when compared to London, extremely cheap. 
 A person may live in the same manner as in London, 
 as nearly as the difference of each town will permit, 
 for about one-third of the expense. 
 
 July 20, Prague. — The road from Vienna here is 
 very agreeably diversified with hills, vineyards, hop 
 grounds, and abundance of corn-fields ; but, alas ! 
 literally the harvest is plenteous and the labourers few. 
 I scarcely saw a peasant, and in one field reckoned 
 thirteen women at work, with only two men. 
 
 July ii } Carlsbad. — Two fatiguing days have 
 brought me here. The situation of these baths is 
 charming. A variety of hills, covered to the very top 
 with different species of fir, sweep around and play 
 into one another in every direction. A small river 
 runs at the bottom, and an appearance of dignity, re- 
 pose, and seclusion is the general expression of the 
 scene. 
 
Tdplitz. 61 
 
 July 23. — Became acquainted with the Countess 
 Briihl, a woman whose character seems to command 
 universal respect, and whose manners please me 
 extremely. Though I had no recommendation to her, 
 she has offered to introduce me here, and presented 
 me in the same evening to the Princess Radziwill and 
 Duchess of Courland. 
 
 August 4, Tdplitz. — Two days have brought me 
 here. The situation has not the divine romantic 
 beauty of Carlsbad. I have seen no part of it so 
 agreeable in the Wlese where I lodged, and I much 
 regret the change. Went with the Princess Clary 
 to a the given in that part of her garden open to the 
 public by the Princess Dolgorouki, a Russian. The 
 locale made it a pleasing fete, but somehow or other I 
 was not amused. In the evening was admitted to the 
 Princess Dolgorouki. As she rose at my entrance I 
 did not perceive her previous situation ; and was a 
 little surprised when I saw her throw herself upon a 
 mattress, covered with the same calico as her sofas. 
 There she lay along, drest in a very dirty, huddled 
 dishabille, and wrapt up in a Turkish shawl. The 
 room was small, low, and mean, like most of the 
 lodgings here \ but was ornamented with pieces of 
 
62 Toplitz. 
 
 chintz, calico, and muslin hung round in festoons ; 
 the like were suspended from the ceiling ; prints, un- 
 framed, were hung about in various places ; orange- 
 trees were in the four corners, and the stove was veiled 
 with drapery of various kinds. The lady and the room 
 gave me an idea of Bedlam, yet every one admired, 
 and cried out how enchanting her taste. In Ger- 
 many be extraordinary, grotesque or absurd in a new 
 way, and you will surely be applauded. Conversed 
 chiefly with a wounded officer, the Prince Tour and 
 Taxis, who gave me a horrid account of the fatigues 
 and sufferings of the Austrian army during the last 
 campaign. He was left ten hours on the field of 
 battle, c ou je serois mortj added he, c si le caporal 
 de ?non regiment n'avoit Louche les trous de mes plaies 
 avec de la terre.' All seem dissatisfied with the con- 
 duct of the war, particularly since Prince Charles 
 resigned the command. 
 
 August 1 1 . — Long airings with the Princess Clary 
 (to whom Toplitz belongs) fill up my evenings very 
 agreeably. I have been in two of the carriages of the 
 country. The first holds four, of whom two only 
 can be defended from the weather. The second 
 holds eight ; it is a long plank covered with a cushion, 
 
Tdplitz. 63 
 
 with a footboard on each side, and on one a sort of 
 narrow resting-place, which at will may serve for your 
 back or arms, as you can turn yourself either way. It 
 has four wheels covered with cases of strong leather 
 to prevent the branches from entangling in them, and 
 is excellent for going through woods and narrow 
 roads. It is heavy to the horses, and requires six in 
 a long drive. 
 
 August 22. — The last four days have been cheered 
 by the society of my friend Mr. S . How de- 
 lightful to meet a friend and countryman in a foreign 
 
 O JO 
 
 land. He travels with his eldest son, who has passed 
 near a year at M. de Mounier's academy in Weimar. 
 He went there merely a pretty-looking, insignificant 
 young man, devoted to fashion, full of vanity, and 
 anxious to think on all subjects with those who lead 
 in the ton. Mounier has enlarged, refined, and libe- 
 ralized his ideas, given him just notions of politics, a 
 o-eneral taste in literature, and cleared his mind of the 
 prejudices acquired in the round of fashionable life in 
 London. — Conversed with the Count O'Kelly, who 
 confirmed all 1 have heard of the Empress's un- 
 bounded influence over her husband, her devotion to 
 her mother, and her dislike of the Archduke Charles, 
 
64 Toplitz. 
 
 which has produced fatal effects — whole troops at 
 the battle of Marengo having surrendered without 
 
 o o 
 
 firing a shot, saying, l Why should we suffer our- 
 selves to be massacred for those who have taken our 
 father from us ?' 
 
 Aug. 24. — To-morrow I leave Toplitz. There is 
 one point in which it differs materially from an Eng- 
 lish water-drinking place — the expense may be rated 
 at about one seventh. I am in a wretchedly comfort- 
 less, but not disgraceful lodging, for which I pay but 
 two florins a night, and had I taken it by the week or 
 month, it would have been still cheaper. — Yesterday 
 evening I saw a play represented in the open air. The 
 piece, Graf von Waltlirov, is military, and founded on a 
 true story. An inferior officer, who insults his colonel, 
 is condemned to die, and receives a pardon at the 
 place of execution. Nothing, as far as what I saw of 
 the pantomime enabled me to judge — for it was a play 
 only to the eye, as it was impossible to hear a word — 
 appeared new in the details. A wife, who arrives 
 in great spirits to see her husband in camp, receives 
 the news of his condemnation v/ith a fainting fit, who 
 kneels, implores, weeps, embraces, attempts to shoot 
 herself, and, according to custom, suffers the pistol to 
 
Toplitz. 65 
 
 be forced from her with great facility, is what we 
 have all seen a thousand times. I was chiefly employed 
 in reflecting- what astonishing art the ancients must 
 have possessed to give effect to a piece in the open 
 air. Here nothing; could be worse, I sat in one of 
 the best places, yet heard not a word ; and the mere 
 spectacle did not strike the eye, as I expected an exact 
 reality would have done. At one moment only the 
 representation appeared to gain by its perfect truth ; it 
 was when a number of horsemen gallop forward with 
 repeated cries, and produce the pardon of Graf 
 Walthron. Extreme haste to further a benevolent 
 purpose has always a good stage effect. Among the 
 spectators was Madame de Cachet, who commanded 
 22,oco men in the war of La Vendee, was wounded 
 in several engagements, wishes to be thought daughter 
 to Louis the Sixteenth, and is really not unlike the 
 portraits of the family. She also resembles the Mar- 
 gravine of Anspach. I think her about forty, rather 
 well-looking, her hair d'une couleur un peu hard'w, 
 and very long ; her complexion good, and not tanned ; 
 her throat well-turned and very white, and her manner 
 of carrying her head beautiful. She is of a middle 
 height, rather fat and massy, her dress without taste, 
 but not without pretension — a black gown, with a 
 
 F 
 
(jG Dresden. 
 
 white muslin chemise thrown over it, fancifully made 
 and trimmed, a white muslin on her head, and a 
 great display of hair, one tress of which hung down 
 from the top of her head, where it was puffed, to the 
 bottom of her waist in front. Her confidante abused 
 the privilege which confidantes possess of being 
 hideous. Some one proposed to remove her chair a 
 little further back, and she turned to Mad. de Cachet, 
 saying, ' Je dirai comme vous, je ne suis pas fait e pour 
 reculer. 9 Her friend smiled at this citation with great 
 complacence.* 
 
 August 2J, Dresden. — I have just seen Mr. Elliot, 
 agreeable as ever. His conversation — ' The Em- 
 peror of Russia is a wild beast. I consider him a 
 greater Jacobin than Robespierre. He has made 
 more Jacobins. A person of whose veracity I have 
 no reason to doubt, told me the following story. " I 
 was travelling lately in Russia, and saw one of the 
 carriages used in transporting prisoners, and sealed, 
 according to custom, with the Emperor's seal. I heard 
 a faint voice call for water, and I asked who was 
 within. The guide desired me to look through a 
 
 * I am entirely perplexed who this Vendean heroine is. I can find no 
 mention of her in any histories of the time. — Ed. 
 
Dresden, 67 
 
 small grated window. I did, and saw two human 
 figures fastened together by a chain passed through 
 their cheeks, and secured by a padlock. One of them 
 implored the conductor, in accents faint and indistinct, 
 for God's sake to release him from his fellow-prisoner, 
 who was become a corpse. The guide said that it was 
 contrary to the Emperor's orders, and that he dared not 
 open the carriage till it arrived at the destined spot." 
 One would willingly go to Petersburg, for the sake of 
 shooting such a monster.' In the evening I met Lord 
 and Lady Holland at Mr. Elliot's. Her manner is 
 pleasing ; she is tall and embonpoint , with fine eyes, 
 and an agreeable countenance, rather well-looking 
 than handsome. Her husband is agreeable, and they 
 both possess that vivacity of conversation and mildness 
 of manner, the union of which forms the cachet of the 
 Devonshire society. 
 
 Sept. i. — An assembly at Mad. . On attempt- 
 ing to return home, fell into a strange perplexity. I 
 removed this day from the inn to a lodging, but did 
 not know the name of the street ; yet having more 
 dread of ennui than fear of losing my way, would not 
 wait at the assembly for my footman, but got into a 
 chair, and desired the men in bad German to take me 
 
 f2 
 
68 Dresden. 
 
 to a lodging opposite the Golden Angel — rather an 
 indefinite direction, as it might apply to a dozen 
 other as well as mine. However, I trusted to the 
 good luck which follows me in trifles, and depended 
 on chance for leading me to the right one. Alas ! I 
 find myself on a staircase quite different from mine, 
 and the chairmen do not comprehend they have made 
 a mistake. A stranger (Count Romanzow, as I after- 
 wards learned) politely asks if he can be of service, 
 and desires to know where I wish to go. c Indeed, 
 sir, I cannot tell.' He wishes to know at length 
 whence I came. That I cannot tell either, as Mrs. 
 Elliot's carriage brought me, and I never asked the 
 name of my hostess. He must have thought me 
 mad. At last, as my most natural resource, he 
 ordered the chair, at my desire, to Mr. Elliot's house 
 in town, where Lord and Lady Holland lodged. I 
 there supped with them. Mr. Elliot remarkably amus- 
 ing ; no one has so much small talk, or parries better by 
 a jest an opinion he disapproves, but does not choose 
 to refute. He has so much wit, originality, and know- 
 ledge of the world, his caprice rather increases than 
 diminishes his powers of pleasing. He says the 
 Princess Radziwill (mere) is like a high priest in an 
 Italian opera. Those who have seen her will appre- 
 ciate the comparison. 
 
Dresden. 69 
 
 Sept. 3. — Drank tea with Mad. de Hoenthal, a very 
 small party,, made for the reigning, or rather the 
 ci-devant ^ Princess of Tour and Taxis, who was forced 
 to quit Ratisbon on the arrival of the French. She 
 has travelled four nights, yet is as fresh as possible, 
 and betrays not a symptom of languor or weariness. 
 She is a woman of about thirty, tall, well-made and 
 graceful, her face agreeable, though her features irre- 
 gular. Her deportment and countenance bear some 
 resemblance to those of our Queen, her aunt. She is 
 on her way to visit her sister, the Queen of Prussia. 
 Her address is pleasing, and the character I have 
 heard of her is amiable. Her anxiety to see every 
 work of art worth observation, which has been 
 stronglv marked since her arrival, speaks in her favour. 
 She is attended by her brother, the Prince of Meek- 
 lenburg. His features are good, and with expression 
 might even be called handsome. 
 
 Sept. 4.— Breakfasted with Mad. d'Ahlefeld at a 
 public garden called The Little Osterwiesc. It was a 
 very small party given to the Princess Tour and Taxis. 
 Afterwards we saw the palace of Prince Max, — very 
 mediocre ; and his garden, where the ornament that 
 we were desired most to observe, because it contributed 
 
70 Dresden. 
 
 most to the Prince's amusement, was a pijoee^ or contri- 
 vance for catching birds in a net. I cannot describe 
 it. There was a building, several walks, and a great 
 deal of apparatus connected with it. It is the Prince's 
 principal occupation. Poor man ! We then went to 
 the gallery, where the picture that most struck me 
 was a Raphael representing the Virgin standing on a 
 cloud, with the infant Jesus in her arms, the saints on 
 either side in the act of adoration, and at the bottom of 
 the picture two of the loveliest heads of cherubs I ever 
 saw. The Virgin's face is divine. The Child, who 
 appears about a year old, has more the expression of 
 the King than Saviour of the world. There is a 
 beautiful haughtiness, mixed with disdain, in his fea- 
 tures. Mad. Wissenberg passed the evening with me, 
 and oppressed me with her tenderness. She has been 
 educated in a convent in France, which I should have 
 guessed, had she not told it to me. 
 
 Sept. 7. — Dined at Mr. Elliot's with the Hollands. 
 Her Ladyship's manner to her husband is too im- 
 perious ; it is not the tyranny of a mistress or a wife, 
 but of a governess to her trembling pupil. 
 
 Sejrf. 8. — Dined with the Hollands. She has a 
 
Dresden, 7 i 
 
 mixture of imperiousness and caprice very amusing to 
 the mere spectators. Her indolence is also remark- 
 able, and she lies in a very easy posture on a sofa, 
 with screens between the lights and her eyes, in all 
 the dignity of idleness, employing every individual who 
 travels in her party, without apology or intermission. 
 Her husband has the honour of being; fag-in-chief, but 
 she likewise entirely occupies a humorous clergyman, 
 a peevish physician, and a young lord. There is like- 
 wise a boy (Mr. Dickens) who comes occasionally, 
 like those who attend servants in great families to do 
 jobs ; but he has found out that she dislikes the 
 trouble of repeating her orders, and often evades them 
 by affecting not to hear. 
 
 Sept. 9. — Supped at the Princess Dolgorouki's. 
 Her egotism and vanity excessive. C -/V// donne une 
 
 fete au Roi cle Pologne, qui Va presque rendu fou. 
 Madame de Brune avoit arrange des groupes que nous 
 representions sur un petit theatre derriere une gaze — 
 putr'autres lafamille de Darius — moifetois Stat'rre aux 
 
 pieds d? Alexandre. Apres^ la toilette de Venus; trois 
 des plus jolies femmes representoient les Graces; moi 
 
 fetois Venus, et il avoit un petit Amour en tricot qui 
 me chaussoit.'* 
 
72 Dresden. 
 
 Sej)t. 1 8. — Arrived at Count Minister's. He lives 
 at Konigsbruck, where he possesses a large and con- 
 venient chateau, which he has rendered cheerful by 
 his taste in the disposition and furniture of the apart- 
 ments. The family do not assemble at breakfast here 
 as in England. Countess Minister rises at six, and 
 does not establish herself in her drawing-room till 
 about twelve. Their life is extremely retired ; and I 
 believe it is not so much the custom to receive com- 
 pany in a German chateau as in an English country- 
 house. We dine at two, sup at half-past nine, and 
 retire long before eleven. 
 
 Scjjt. 28. — Left Konigsbruck, where I had passed a 
 few very pleasant and retired days. Countess Minister 
 is a warm partizan of the philosophy of Kant, who says 
 perfectibility and not happiness should be the object 
 of human researches. Mad. Miinster has adopted this 
 idea, and considers all revealed religion as priestcraft, 
 and Christianity as depraving our hearts, because it 
 founds our virtues on a selfish hope of future bliss, 
 and contracting our understandings, because it substi- 
 tutes faith for reason. She thinks truth unattainable, 
 but that there is a degree of relative truth to which 
 each understanding may arrive, in proportion to its 
 
Dresden. 73 
 
 strength and efforts. She is not the most formidable 
 opponent to the Christian religion it has yet encoun- 
 tered ; and I doubt if she perfectly understands herself 
 on these subjects, which she seeks with an eagerness 
 that denotes a perfect conviction of her own strength. 
 A lofty contempt of those who do believe, and great 
 bigotry to her own system, render her conversation 
 on such topics unpleasing. She has some imagina- 
 tion, extensive reading, but little tact, and a great deal 
 of vanity ; yet she is altogether superior to the general 
 class of females, and neither wants sensibility nor 
 elevation.* 
 
 Sept. 30. — From the Museum went to the collec- 
 tion of porcelain under the same roof — eighteen 
 
 * I copy from a later journal an entry with date Jan. 7, 1825. * At 
 last, after an interval of twenty-four years, which succeeded a tolerably 
 intimate acquaintance of seven weeks, I saw Count Miinster of Hanover 
 again. We met like two ghosts, that ought to have been laid long since. 
 I witnessed the whole process of the difficulty of persuading him that I was 
 7, and I thought him as much changed in his degree as he could have 
 found me. When we conversed, all the persons we referred to were dead 
 and gone j and our interview added another link in my mind to the chain 
 of proofs, that after a very, very long interval neither friends nor acquaintance 
 ought to meet in this world. He was kindly anxious to renew our ac- 
 quaintance, and visited me next day ; but still it seemed as if seeing me 
 had renewed some painful associations.' 
 
74 Dresden. 
 
 chambers full of the finest specimens of every kind of 
 Japan, Chinese, and Saxon porcelain. I saw the 
 Saxon dragon china, which is only permitted to be 
 manufactured for the Electoral family ; the dragons are 
 in crimson — exquisite biscuit, in imitation of the 
 antique; heaps of valuable, but by me unvalued, man- 
 darins ; a whole room full of Egyptian idols ; all sorts 
 of old-fashioned figures in glazed and coloured china ; 
 fine dressed ladies with hats on one side and crooks in 
 their hands, shepherds with pink ribbons and yellow 
 feathers kneeling at their feet, the dog and the sheep 
 partaking in the general smirk ; coloured bouquets, 
 insipid, but curiously accurate ; hundreds of such jars 
 as have singly formed the happiness of many a respect- 
 able dowager ; and, in short, a profusion which I had 
 never expected to behold. I then went to GrafPs, an 
 excellent portrait painter. He is famous for catching 
 the expression of the countenance, but he leaves 
 nature pretty much as he finds her, without attempt- 
 ing to obtain as much ideal beauty as is consistent 
 with the resemblance.* 
 
 * Graff, born in r 736, is said to have left behind him at his death, in 
 181 3, more than eleven hundred portraits. His pictures are still held in 
 high esteem, but more those of men than of women.- -Ed. 
 
OF THE 
 
 UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF 
 
 Dresden. 7o 
 
 Oct. 2.— Dined at the Elliots'. While I was play- 
 ing at chess with Mr. Elliot, the news arrived of Lord 
 Nelson's arrival, with Sir William and Lady Hamilton, 
 Mrs. Cadoaan, mother of the latter, and Miss Cor- 
 nelia Knight, famous for her Continuation of Ras- 
 selaS)* and Private Life of the Romans. \ 
 
 Oct. 3. — Dined at Mr. Elliot's with only the 
 Nelson party. It is plain that Lord Nelson thinks of 
 nothing but Lady Hamilton, who is totally occupied 
 by the same object. She is bold, forward, coarse, 
 assuming, and vain. Her figure is colossal, but, ex- 
 cepting her feet, which are hideous, well shaped. Her 
 bones are large, and she is exceedingly embonpoint. 
 She resembles the bust of Ariadne ; the shape of all 
 her features is fine, as is the form of her head, and 
 particularly her ears j her teeth are a little irregular, 
 but tolerably white ; her eyes light blue, with a brown 
 spot in one, which, though a defect, takes nothing 
 away from her beauty and expression. Her eyebrows 
 and hair are dark, and her complexion coarse. Her 
 expression is strongly marked, variable, and interest- 
 
 * Dinarbas, a Continuation of Rasselas, 1790. -Ed. 
 
 f Marcus Flaminius ; or, Life of the Romans, 1795- — Ed - 
 
76 Dresden. 
 
 ing y her movements in common life ungraceful ; her 
 voice loud, yet not disagreeable. Lord Nelson is a 
 little man, without any dignity •> who, I suppose, must 
 resemble what Suwarrow was in his youth, as he is 
 like all the pictures I have seen of that General. 
 Lady Hamilton takes possession of him, and he is a 
 willing captive, the most submissive and devoted I 
 have seen. Sir William is old, infirm, all admiration 
 of his wife, and never spoke to-day but to applaud her. 
 Miss Cornelia Knight seems the decided flatterer of 
 the two, and never opens her mouth but to show forth 
 their praise; and Mrs. Cadogan, Lady Hamilton's 
 mother, is what one might expect. After dinner we 
 had several songs in honour of Lord Nelson, written 
 by Miss Knight, and sung by Lady Hamilton. She 
 puffs the incense full in his face \ but he receives it 
 with pleasure, and snuffs it up very cordially. The 
 songs all ended in the sailor's way, with c Hip, hip, 
 hip, hurra,' and a bumper with the last drop on the 
 nail, a ceremony I had never heard of or seen before. 
 
 Oct. 4. — Accompanied the Nelson party to Mr. 
 Elliot's box at the opera. Lady Hamilton paid me 
 those kinds of compliments which prove she thinks 
 mere exterior alone of any consequence. She and 
 
Dresden. 77 
 
 Lord Nelson were wrapped up in each other's con- 
 versation during the chief part of the evening. 
 
 Oct. 5. — Went by Lady Hamilton's invitation to 
 see Lord Nelson dressed for Court. On his hat he 
 wore the large diamond feather, or ensign of sove- 
 reignty, given him by the Grand Signior ; on his 
 breast the Order of the Bath, the Order he received as 
 Duke of Bronte, the diamond star, including- the sun 
 or crescent given him by the Grand Signior, three gold 
 medals obtained by three different victories, and a 
 beautiful present from the King of Naples. On one 
 side is his Majesty's picture, richly set and surrounded 
 with laurels, which spring from two united anchors at 
 bottom, and support the Neapolitan crown at top ; on 
 the other is the Queen's cypher, which turns so as 
 to appear within the same laurels, and is formed of 
 diamonds on green enamel. In short, Lord Nelson 
 was a perfect constellation of stars and orders. 
 
 Oct. 6. — Dined with Lord Nelson at the Hotel de 
 Pologne. Went in the evening to a concert given to 
 him by Count Marcolini. Paris sung — a fine bass, 
 with the lowest tones I ever heard; and Ciciarelli, 
 a soprano, who has lost his voice, but declaims well. 
 
78 Dresden. 
 
 From thence went to a party at Countess Richten- 
 stein's, Lady Hamilton loading me with all marks of 
 friendship at first sight, which I always think more 
 extraordinary than love of the same kind. 
 
 Oct. 7. — Breakfasted with Lady Hamilton, and saw 
 her represent in succession the best statues and 
 paintings extant. She assumes their attitude, ex- 
 pression, and drapery with great facility, swiftness, and 
 accuracy. Several Indian shawls, a chair, some 
 antique vases, a wreath of roses, a tambourine, and a 
 few children are her whole apparatus. She stands at 
 one end of the room with a strong light to her left, 
 and every other window closed. Her hair (which by- 
 the-bye is never clean), is short, dressed like an antique, 
 and her gown a simple calico chemise, very easy, with 
 loose sleeves to the wrist. She disposes the shawls so 
 as to form Grecian, Turkish, and other drapery, as 
 well as a variety of turbans. Her arrangement of the 
 turbans is absolute sleight-of-hand, she does it so 
 quickly, so easily, and so well. It is a beautiful per- 
 formance, amusing to the most ignorant, and highly 
 interesting to the lovers of art. The chief of her 
 imitations are from the antique. Each representation 
 lasts about ten minutes. It is remarkable that, though 
 
Dresden. 79 
 
 coarse and ungraceful in common life, she becomes 
 highly graceful, and even beautiful, during this perfor- 
 mance. It is also singular that, in spite of the accu- 
 racy of her imitation of the finest ancient draperies, 
 her usual dress is tasteless, vulgar, loaded, and unbe- 
 coming. She has borrowed several of my gowns, and 
 much admires my dress, which cannot flatter, as her 
 own is so frightful. Her waist is absolutely between 
 her shoulders. After showing her attitudes, she sung, 
 and I accompanied. Her voice is good, and very 
 strong, but she is frequently out of tune ; her expres- 
 sion strongly marked and various ; but she has no 
 shake, no flexibility, and no sweetness. She acts her 
 songs, which I think the last degree of bad taste. All 
 imperfect imitations are disagreeable, and' to represent 
 passion with the eyes fixed on a book and the person 
 confined to a spot, must always be a poor piece of 
 acting manque. She continues her demonstrations of 
 friendship, and said many fine things about my accom- 
 panying her at sight. Still she does not gain upon me. 
 I think her bold, daring, vain even to folly, and 
 stamped with the manners of her first situation much 
 more strongly than one would suppose, after having 
 represented Majesty, and lived in good company 
 fifteen years. Her ruling passions seem tome vanity, 
 
80 Dresden, 
 
 avarice, and love for the pleasures of the table. She 
 shows a great avidity for presents, and has actually 
 obtained some at Dresden by the common artifice of 
 admiring and longing. Mr. Elliot says, c She will 
 captivate the Prince of Wales, whose mind is as 
 vulgar as her own, and play a great part in England.' 
 Dined with the Elliots. He was wonderfully amusing. 
 His wit, his humour, his discontent, his spleen, his 
 happy choice of words, his rapid flow of ideas, and his 
 disposition to playful satire, make one always long to 
 write short-hand, and preserve his conversation. 
 
 Oct. 8. — Dined at Madame de Loss's, wife to the 
 Prime Minister, with the Nelson party. The Electress 
 will not receive Lady Hamilton, on account of her 
 former dissolute life. She wished to go to Court, on 
 which a pretext was made to avoid receiving company 
 last Sunday, and I understand there will be no Court 
 while she stays. Lord Nelson, understanding the 
 Elector did not wish to see her, said to Mr. Elliot, c Sir, 
 if there is any difficulty of that sort, Lady Hamilton 
 
 will knock the Elector down, and me, I'll knock 
 
 him down too.' She was not invited in the beo-innino- 
 
 d to 
 
 to Mad. de Loss's ; upon which Lord Nelson sent his 
 excuse, and then Mr. Elliot persuaded Mad. de Loss 
 
Dresden. 81 
 
 to invite her. From Mad. de Loss's visited Mrs. 
 Newman, a very obliging entertaining woman of the 
 tiers etat, thence to sup at Airs. Rawdon's. Here I 
 
 found Lady W in the midst of a very animated 
 
 discourse on precedence, which I soon found took its 
 rise from Mr. Elliot's having led me in to dinner at 
 Mad. de Loss's before her and another lady who had 
 place. She politely told me he showed his ignorance 
 and his impertinence, and she was sorry he knew 
 no better. I had been so amused by his conversation 
 at dinner, I had quite forgot the indecorum. 
 
 Oct. 9. — A great breakfast at the Elliots', given to 
 the Nelson party. Lady Hamilton repeated her 
 attitudes with great effect. All the company, except 
 their party and myself, went away before dinner j after 
 which Lady Hamilton, who declared she was pas- 
 sionately fond of champagne, took such a portion of it 
 as astonished me. Lord Nelson was not behind-hand, 
 called more vociferously than usual for songs in his 
 own praise, and after many bumpers proposed the 
 Queen of Naples, adding, ' She is my Queen ; she is 
 Queen to the backbone.' Poor Mr. Elliot, who was 
 anxious the party should not expose themselves more 
 than they had done already, and wished to get over 
 
 G 
 
82 Dresden. 
 
 the last day as well as he had done the rest, endeavoured 
 to stop the effusion of champagne, and effected it with 
 some difficulty ; but not till the Lord and Lady, or, as 
 he calls them, Antony and Moll Cleopatra, were pretty 
 far gone. I was so tired, I returned home soon after 
 dinner, but not till Cleopatra had talked to me a great 
 deal of her doubts whether the Queen would receive 
 her, adding, ' I care little about it. I had much 
 sooner she would settle half Sir William's pension on 
 me.' After I went, Mr. Elliot told me she acted 
 Nina intolerably ill, and danced the Tarantola. 
 During her acting Lord Nelson expressed his admira- 
 tion by the Irish sound of astonished applause, which 
 no written character can imitate, and by crying every 
 
 now and then, c Mrs. Siddons be .' Lady 
 
 Hamilton expressed great anxiety to go to Court, and 
 Mrs. Elliot assured her it would not amuse her, and 
 that the Elector never gave dinners or suppers — 
 'What?' cried she, 'no guttling!' Sir William 
 also this evening performed feats of activity, hopping 
 round the room on his backbone, his arms, legs, star 
 and ribbon all flying about in the air. 
 
 Q c f m io . — Mr. Elliot saw them on board to-day. 
 He heard by chance from a King's Messenger that a 
 
Dresden. 83 
 
 frigate waited for them at Hamburg, and ventured to 
 announce it formally.* He says : — c The moment 
 they were on board, there was an end of the fine arts, 
 of the attitudes, of the acting, the dancing, and the 
 singing. Lady Hamilton's maid began to scold in 
 French about some provisions which had been forgot, 
 in language quite impossible to repeat, using certain 
 French words which were never spoken, but by men 
 of the lowest class, and roaring them out from one 
 boat to another. Lady Hamilton began bawling for 
 an Irish stew, and her old mother set about washing 
 the potatoes, which she did as cleverly as possible. 
 They were exactly like Hogarth's actresses dressing 
 in the barn.' In the evening I went to congratulate 
 the Elliots on their deliverance, and found them very 
 sensible of it. Mr. Elliot would not allow his wife to 
 speak above her breath, and said every now and then, 
 c Now don't let us laugh to-night ; let us all speak in 
 our turn ; and be very very quiet.' f 
 
 * Mr. Elliot must have been a little too easily satisfied with his infor- 
 mation ; which under the circumstances is not very much to be wondered 
 at. When Lord Nelson reached Hamburg there was no frigate waiting 
 for him there, and he had to wait, I think, several days before one 
 arrived. — Ed. 
 
 •j- It is sometimes curious and instructive to contrast the records of the 
 same events. Here is the stately historical record of the sojourn at Dresden, 
 
 G 2 
 
84 Dresden. 
 
 Ocf t ii. — Dined at the Elliots'. Mr. Elliot says I 
 shall not like Berlin. This is the summary of his 
 sentiments on the subject : — c The King is a fool, 
 and the Queen a doll. Madame de Briihl an unplea- 
 sant, conceited, proud woman. Her husband ought 
 to have been the woman, and she the man. The 
 Browns a most uninteresting society, the Doctor 
 pompous, and the wife tiresome. Beware of the 
 Bishopswerders, an intriguing, dangerous set. Make 
 no friendships, the Berlin people are false and unprin- 
 cipled. You will lose a winter, and probably repent 
 your journey.' 
 
 Oct, 15. — After three days and a half's journey 
 through the most tiresome, flat, and sandy country I 
 have ever seen in so long a continuity, arrived at 
 Berlin. 
 
 as given in Pettigrew's very serviceable Memoirs of Lord Nelson, vol. i. 
 p. 388 : — ' In two days he reached Dresden, where Mr. Elliot was British 
 Minister. Prince Xavier, the brother of the Elector of Saxony, here 
 visited Nelson. The celebrated Dresden Gallery was thrown open for his 
 inspection and his friends', and they remained eight days in the city, admir- 
 ing its worthy beauties and receiving entertainments at the Court, and 
 when they took their departure, gondolas magnificently fitted up were in 
 readiness to convey them to Hamburg.' 
 
Berlin. 85 
 
 Oct. 0,0, Berlin. — I have been here since Wednes- 
 day, and am now settled in the apartments last in- 
 habited by Prince Augustus, but of course have not 
 hired any of those that were occupied by his suite. 
 I have as yet made no new acquaintance except that 
 of Lord and Lady Carysfort ; an excellent and an 
 amiable pair. She is made for her situation, having 
 both the desire and the power of pleasing, appears to 
 possess quick parts and strong feelings, has great 
 pleasantry and a graceful flowing elocution. I have 
 been there thrice by appointment, and have received a 
 general invitation for every evening. 
 
 Oct. 21. — Went to a supper at Prince Ferdinand's. 
 He is almost unintelligible from his manner of speak- 
 ing, and it is difficult to persuade one's-self he was 
 brother to the great Frederick, to the lively and highly 
 intelligent Dowager Duchess of Brunswick. The 
 Princess played cards with the gentleman whom 
 Mirabeau speaks of as c le jjere de ses enfants. 9 She 
 is good-looking, civil, and gentlewomanlike. The 
 style of these suppers is triste and ceremonious. 
 
 Oct. 25. — Passed most of the evening with Mad. 
 de Solms, a beautiful little widow, who is just going 
 
86 Berlin. 
 
 to make a second choice, and is evidently enchanted 
 at the idea. Finished the evening with Mrs. Hunter 
 and Miss Jones, with whom I have always found the 
 same French gentleman. She took the unnecessary 
 trouble of accounting for this, by saying he came 
 to thread their needles. 
 
 Oct. 30. — Went to the Exhibition, or as some call 
 it, Exposition. It really exposes the melancholy state 
 of the arts at Berlin. The head of Herod, formed 
 entirely of little children, whose bodies, artificially 
 placed, represented his features without the assistance 
 of any other object, was a curious specimen of mis- 
 placed ingenuity, and false taste of the most odious 
 kind. — Supped at Prince Ferdinand's ; saw Prince 
 Henry, who desired I should be presented to him. 
 He looks like a little fiend of the minor class, not 
 Belial, or any of the noblesse of hell. We conversed 
 so little, I can speak but of his exterior. He appears 
 as if he had just crept out of the embers, and was 
 half-singed. He has two pretty women in his suite. 
 They say Rheinsberg, his country house, is a scene 
 of extraordinary wickedness and depravity.* 
 
 * There are various scandalous memoirs, both in French and German, 
 of Prince Henry's life at Rheinsberg, which I know only by name $ one, 
 
Berlin. 87 
 
 Nov. i. — At a party at Mad. Podewitz', conversed 
 with Lord Carysfort, Mr. Adams the American Envoy, 
 and Citoyen Beurnonville, the French Minister.* The 
 latter looks like a Newmarket bullying swindler, but 
 was full of flourishing civility. Buonaparte, the 
 Consul's brother, and Envoy Extraordinary to this 
 country, is short, very dark, and remarkably serious. 
 His whiskers cover half of each cheek, and add to the 
 dinginess of his appearance. He is going with Beur- 
 nonville's aide-de-camp to Warsaw, in order, as he says, 
 to inspect the forts — of which, wherever he has been, 
 he takes the most exact plans and dimensions — in hope, 
 I suppose, they will soon belong to his own country. 
 People are astonished at the imprudence of the Court 
 of Prussia, in suffering this journey, as Warsaw is 
 already filled with discontented minds, and has been 
 
 printed at Paris, ascribed, but falsely, to Mirabeau. On a visit to Paris, in 
 1784, he was present at a sitting of the French Academy, and was hailed 
 there by Marmontel as ' la Vertn couronnee de gloire.' — Ed. 
 
 * Beurnonville, born in 1752, distinguished himself at Valmy and 
 Gemappes. Being sent by the Convention to arrest Dumouriez, he, with 
 the four Commissioners who accompanied him, were by him arrested and 
 delivered to the Austrians. Recovering his liberty by an exchange, he 
 was, in 1800, sent as Minister or Ambassador to Berlin. Having taken 
 service with the Bourbons at the first Restoration, he adhered to them 
 during the Hundred Days, and for this fidelity was largely rewarded by 
 them. He died in 181 7, a Marquis and Marshal of France. 
 
88 • Berlin. 
 
 half, some say quite, organized for revolution by the 
 Abbe Sieyes. On the whole, the favourable manner 
 in which this French mission has been received by the 
 Court and the Ministers is so strongly marked, it 
 cannot escape the most inattentive eye. Their pre- 
 ference of French politics and French principles to 
 those of England appears a degree of infatuation in a 
 monarchical state not to be accounted for by any of 
 the common motives of action. 
 
 Nov. 18-23. — It ls unnecessary to endeavour to dis- 
 criminate every day in my journal, when all are so 
 much alike in my life. I pass it entirely at Lord 
 Carysfort's. I have been at a great supper at Count 
 Schulenberg's, which did not vary the scene, as I sat 
 by Lord Carysfort at supper in a very large company 
 instead of sitting by him at dinner in a very small one. 
 As usual, I saw Beurnonville, who was very attentive. 
 He looks like an immense cart-horse put by mistake 
 in the finest caparisons ; for his figure is colossal 
 and ungainly ; and his uniform of blue and gold, which 
 appears too large even for his large person, is half 
 covered with the broadest gold lace. His ton is that 
 of a corps-de-garde (he was really a corporal), but when 
 he addresses himself to women, he affects a softness 
 
Berlin. 89 
 
 and legerete^ which reminds one exactly of the Ass and 
 the Spaniel, and his compliments are very much in the 
 style of M. Jourdain. It is said, however, he is 
 benevolent and well meaning. 
 
 Nov. 29. — Dined to-day with Madame Divoff, saw 
 several curious contrasts in the entertainment — a dinner 
 dressed by a French cook, and dirty napkins, Sec. — 
 the servants in magnificent liveries of scarlet and gold, 
 with dirty shirts — the mistress of the house in a point- 
 lace cap, and a dirty silk pelisse. For two hours after 
 dinner we sang with Righini, an excellent maUre de 
 elutjjeUe, who, to prove he was at his ease, came in 
 his boots, and made love to Madame Divoff. Supped 
 at the Princess Wysimska's ; sang duets with Righini, 
 and heard him sing charmingly — without a voice, but 
 with a variety, taste, and suitableness to the expression 
 of the air in his mauler e de broder, which I think un- 
 equalled. 
 
 Nov. 30. — Supped at Mad. Angestrom's, wife to the 
 Swedish Minister, who is perfectly indifferent as to all 
 the interests of Europe, provided nothing interrupts 
 her reception of the Paris fashions, for which she has 
 an uncommon avidity. ' N 3 est ce pas } ma c/iere } que 
 
90 Berlin. 
 
 ceci est ckarmant ; c'est copie fidelement d'un journal 
 dc Paris\ et quel journal, delicieux !' She wears very 
 little covering on her person, and none on her arms of 
 any kind (shifts being long exploded) except sleeves of 
 the finest cambric, unlined, and Iravaille au jour, 
 which reach only half way from the shoulder to the 
 elbow. She seems to consider it a duty to shiver in 
 this thin attire, for she said to Lady Carysfort, c Ah, 
 M'dedi, que vous etes heureuse, vous portez des poches et 
 des japes? I conversed chiefly with Beurnonville and 
 Pignatelli. Beurnonville says, c Mon secretaire est pour 
 les affaires, mon aide-de-camp pour les dames, et moi pom- 
 la representation* The people about him are conscious 
 he is peu de chose, but say, ' Qifimporte, on est si bon en 
 Prusse, et si lien dispose pour nous? A person asked 
 Vaudreuil, aide-de-camp to Beurnonville, if the latter 
 was a ci-devant. ' NonJ dit il y ' mais il voudroit Vetre ' 
 — a reply of a good deal of jinesse, and plainly proving 
 how unconquerable the respect for rank, and wish among 
 those who have destroyed the substance, to possess 
 the shadow. On my return I found an immense 
 inhabitant of the hair on my tucker. My suspicions 
 turned for a moment on Pignatelli, but on reflection 
 I am sure he belonged to the French mission. 
 
Berlin. 91 
 
 D eCt 4. — A ball at Albertleben's, the Minis- 
 ter's. It was very like a Lord Mayor's ball in 
 London, but the dress and dancing not so good. 
 On the whole, Berlin reminds me of a provincial 
 town with a large garrison, and its manners seems 
 pretty much on a par with its morals. The women 
 are borne to a degree, and do not even possess orna- 
 mental accomplishments. I forgive this as a conse- 
 quence of their bad education ; but I cannot excuse 
 their failure in dress and dancing, which are the study 
 of their lives. 
 
 j) ee% £. — Met M. Gentz, a BerUnois, at Lord Carys- 
 fort's. He strikes me as possessing more energy 
 than any man I had ever seen. His head seems to be 
 organized in a very superior manner, and his conver- 
 sation bears the stamp of real genius. He is one of 
 those who seem to impart a portion of their own en- 
 dowment ; for you feel your mind elevated while in 
 his society. In argument he is irresistible ; but it 
 seems to be from fair and honest force, unassisted by 
 trick or artifice. His voice rises, and his eye kindles, 
 yet his warmth never becomes displeasing, nor de- 
 generates into either violence or sharpness. In his 
 writings he proposes Burke for his model, and walks 
 
92 Berlin. 
 
 boldly beside him, for we cannot say he is a copyist, 
 though a successful imitator."* 
 
 Dec. 6. — I have met M. Rivarol,f a much-applauded 
 French writer; he also proposes to be the wit and 
 demigod of the Berlin society, and I think may suc- 
 ceed, though his powers would not in my opinion 
 assure him that rank elsewhere. 
 
 Dee. 13. — This morning I went to Lady Carysfort's. 
 Mr. Proby, Lord Carysfort's nephew and chaplain, 
 gave us the whole church service. It is interesting 
 in this corrupted town to see a family circle join in 
 prayer, and an inestimable wife and mother surrounded 
 
 * It may be worth observing here, as evidence of a just appreciation of 
 a very remarkable man, that though some notable works of Gentz had 
 already appeared, his greatest works were still in the future , nor had he, I 
 believe, as yet given any indication of the very considerable part which, 
 during the next fifteen years, he should play in the politics of Europe. — Ed. 
 
 *f- Antony, Count of Rivarol, was born in 1753, and made literature 
 his profession. His discourse On the Causes of the Universality of the 
 French Language was crowned by the Berlin Academy in 1784, and still 
 keeps its place as a valuable contribution to the history of the French lan- 
 guage. He fled from the Revolution, first to Hamburg and then to Berlin, 
 where he died rather suddenly in 1S01, aged 47. A sketch of his life and 
 character, by M. Berville, prefixed to his Memoires, Paris, 1824, exactly 
 bears out this account of him. — Ed. 
 
Berlin. 93 
 
 by her lovely innocent daughters, untainted and as yet 
 unconscious of the infection which surrounds them. 
 
 Bee. 14. — A little dance at my hotel, composed 
 chiefly of English. Gentz was of the party, and his 
 conversation, as usual, delighted me. Rivarol and 
 he are the two men of greatest talent I have seen in 
 Berlin. I perceive this difference in their conversation, 
 that Rivarol is perpetually on the watch to display 
 himself, and catch the approbation of the circle, while 
 Gentz is only anxious to do justice to his topic, and 
 to lead their opinion. Rivarol labours, and sometimes 
 successfully, to produce wit ; Gentz lets fall from the 
 plenitude of his ideas such superfluities as he cannot 
 even miss. 
 
 Bee. 18. — Prince George, Righini, and Lord 
 Carysfort passed the morning with me. The former 
 said, upon my observing that Prince Augustus could 
 be amiable, c Oui, mals ses acces d'amalilite devien- 
 nent tons les jours plus rares, comme les ajjjxiritiojis clu 
 soleil a la Jin de V automne ? — Prince Radziwill has 
 been engaged in a plot to recover the independence of 
 Poland. A letter of his was intercepted at Vienna, 
 expressive of the wish, and arranging some of the 
 
9-4 Berlin. 
 
 means, adding, c 11 f aid mettre en avant un Prince the 
 sang? words which were supposed to allude to his 
 wife's brother, Prince Louis, the c Due d'Orleans of 
 Germany.' 
 
 Bee. 28. — Went to Court, which is here an evening 
 assembly. I was presented to the King and Queen. 
 He is a fine tall military man, plain and reserved in 
 his manners and address. She reminded me of Burke's 
 ' star, glittering with life, splendour, and joy,' and 
 realized all the fanciful ideas one forms in one's infancy, 
 of the young, gay, beautiful, and magnificent queens 
 in the Arabian Nights. She is an angel of loveliness, 
 mildness, and grace ; tall and svelte ^ yet sufficiently 
 embonpoint ; her hair is light, her complexion fair and 
 faultless ; an inexpressible air of sweetness reigns in 
 her countenance, and forms its predominant character. 
 As perfect beauty in nature is a chimaera, like the phi- 
 losopher's stone, and as it is rarely to be found but in 
 the higher works of art, I take nothing from her 
 charms in saying she is not faultless. An ill-shaped 
 mouth, indifferent teeth, a broad forehead and large 
 limbs are the only defects the severest criticism can 
 discover ; while her hair, her height, her movements, 
 her shoulders, her waist, are all unexceptionable. 
 
Berlin. 95 
 
 These slight faults only prove she is a woman and not 
 a statue, and altogether she is one of the loveliest 
 creatures I have ever seen. Her dress was in the 
 best taste. Her hair was dressed in the fullest and 
 most varied of the Grecian forms, going very far back, 
 and ornamented with a heron's feather, and a number 
 of immense diamond stars, so placed as to form a 
 bandeau quite round, which came close to her temples. 
 She wore a chemise of crape, richly embroidered in 
 emerald-green foil, and a moldave (simply a body, train, 
 and short sleeves) of pale pink silk, slightly sparkling 
 with gold, and trimmed all round with sable. Her 
 neck was richly ornamented with jewels. She speaks 
 very graciously and politely to every one. I was also 
 presented to the Princess of Orange, a beautiful young 
 woman. 
 
 j) eCm oj, — Went to a ball at Mad. Angestrom's, 
 the Swedish Minister's wife. Every one seemed to 
 partake in the design of finishing the century with 
 festivity and cheerfulness. The company was the 
 elite of the Berlin society, and the ball was unusually 
 animated and brilliant. I had just danced one dance 
 with Mr. Caulfield, and was resting myself during 
 the second in an outer room, when I heard that 
 
96 Berlin. 
 
 M. d'Orville, a young officer just one-and-twenty, 
 had fallen down in a fainting fit in the dance. After 
 some moments he was removed from the ball-room 
 into Mad. Angestrom's boudoir, where all the common 
 remedies of salts, essences, cold water, and fresh air 
 were tried without effect. Still no one was much 
 alarmed. However, a physician and surgeon were 
 called in. They exhausted in vain all the resources of 
 their art ; he was irrecoverably gone, and afforded an 
 awful example of the uncertainty of human life. Mad. 
 Angestrom, whose nerves had been lately shaken by 
 the death of a favourite son, was affected in a dreadful 
 way. She fainted, and on her recovery knew nothing 
 of what had passed, but was impressed with the idea 
 that something had happened to her children. Her 
 husband went to their apartment, and brought them 
 to her from their beds, wrapped in large cloaks. He 
 reminded me of Lewis's verses — 
 
 * 'Tis the father who holds his young son in his arms, 
 And close in his mantle has wrapt him up warm.' 
 
 At first she did not know her children, and she con- 
 tinued to utter such incoherent rhapsodies as were 
 both shocking and pathetic. The shrieks, faintings, 
 tears, and hysterics of every woman who either had 
 really weak nerves, or who wished to display her 
 
Berlin. 97 
 
 feelings, completed the horror of the scene. I wished 
 to escape. Lord Carysfort and Prince Radziwill 
 offered me their carriages, but I refused one, and there 
 was a mistake about the other. At last the contagion 
 of the scene spread to me. I wept violently, and 
 remember no more than that I was wrapped up by 
 Mr. Ridley and Mr. Caulfield, who both showed 
 infinite good nature, in a large cloak, and put into a 
 carriage ; that Mr. Ridley accompanied me home, 
 where Mr. Kinnaird and he remained with me till a 
 few minutes past twelve, that I might not be left 
 to begin the new century a prey to melancholy 
 reflection. 
 
 [The remainder of the Journal has been sought 
 
 lit vain.'] 
 
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