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 EOUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 HISTOEICAL, AECHiEOLOGICAL, 
 xiECHITECTDKAE, AND PICTUEESQUE NOTES 
 
 SUITABLE FOR THE TOURIST, 
 WITHIN A CIRCLE OF TWELVE MILES. 
 
 TO WHICH AKE ADDED 
 
 SPECIMENS OF SHORT WALKING EXCURSIONS AND VISITS TO 
 
 Hatfield, Knole, St. Albans, and Windsor. 
 
 BY 
 
 A FELLOW OF THE SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES. 
 
 a p:n:p aitb Coptous |nbf.v. 
 
 FOURTH EDITION. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 EDWAED STANFOKD, 55, CHARING CROSS, S.W. 
 
 1878.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Abbreviations iv 
 
 General Sketch 1 
 
 Dictionary of Places -within Twelve Miles 13 
 
 Specimens ofWalking Excursions 117 
 
 Excursions beyond Twelve Miles 120 
 
 Index 137
 
 ABBEEYIATIONS. 
 
 The letters following the name of a place denote the postal 
 district, as : Acton, Middlesex, W. 
 
 A.S. — Anglo-Saxon. 
 Abp. —Archbishop. 
 Bp. — Bishop, 
 cir.— circa ; i. e. about. 
 Dee. — Decorated. 
 d. — died. 
 
 D.S. — Domesday Survey. 
 E.E.— Early English archi- 
 tecture. 
 
 Eccl. — Ecclesiastical. 
 Eliz.— Elizabeth, 
 ft.— feet. 
 
 Mont. — Monument. 
 Perp. — Perpendicular. 
 Pop. — Population. 
 Stn. — Eailway Station, 
 temp. — tempore; i.e. in the 
 time of.
 
 GENEEAL SKETCH. 
 
 Scope of this Book. — The country round London is in 
 many respects the most interesting part of England. It 
 is not wanting either in scenery or historical associations. 
 The student of archaeology, as well as the lover of 
 the picturesque, may be amply satisfied in an excursion 
 which will not take him more than 12m, from London. 
 In the following pages an attempt has been made (1) to 
 sketch a series of excursions of this kind, few longer 
 than may be compassed in a Saturday half-holiday ; and 
 (2) to give some particulars of every place of interest, 
 arranged alphabetically, within a circuit of 12m., or 
 thereabouts, from the Post OflBce, exclusive of those 
 which are within a circle of Im. round Charing Cross. 
 
 AuTHOKiTiEs. — There have been many exhaustive works 
 more or less of a similar kind ; but as here nothing has 
 been given but the most succinct notice, it may be worth 
 while to direct the reader who wishes to know more of 
 the places visited to the best topogi'aphical books. 
 Mention is only made of those which are of serious im- 
 portance, mere essays being omitted. Mr. Thome's 
 ' Handbook to the Envii'ons of London ' is the best — that 
 is, the most useful — book of the kind. It gives in alpha- 
 betical order particulars of every place within 20m., and 
 of a few beyond that distance. As it appeared after the 
 present Guide was far advanced towards completion, it 
 has not afforded us much help, but we are indebted to it 
 for a few notes, ackowledged in their places. The older 
 portion of Mr. Thome's historical notes, like our own, 
 has been apparently taken from Lysons, whose ' En- 
 virons,' commenced in the last century, fill four large 
 quarto volumes, and form the most valuable and most 
 trustworthy work on the subject. The volumes are 
 as follows : — Yol. 1. pt. 1, Towns, Tillages, and Hamlets 
 
 B
 
 2 GENEEAL SKETCH. 
 
 in Surrey wliich are within 12m. of London; vol. i. pt. 2, 
 those in Kent, Essex, and Herts ; vol. ii. 2 pts., those 
 in the county of Middlesex. Subsequently, Lysons pub- 
 lished the 'Parishes in Middlesex,' which are not de- 
 scribed in the ' Environs.' Upon these five volumes 
 every topographical work relating to the neighbourhood 
 of London must be founded. 'Hughson's Walks' con- 
 tains very little whicli comes within our limits. ' Knight's 
 London ' is also chiefly confined to the town. There are 
 county histories of Kent (Hasted, of which the Kent 
 Archaeological Society have a new edition in prepara- 
 tion), of Surrey (Manning and Bray), of Herts (Chauncy 
 and Clutterbuck), and of Essex (Morant, a writer of the 
 17th century, and Wright, the latter very poor). There is 
 no such history of Middlesex, but Lysons' volumes supply 
 the want. In addition to these there are the publications 
 of the Kent Archaol. Soc, of which ten vols, have been 
 issued to subscribers, all very valuable : of the Surrey 
 Archceol. Soc, of which 30 vols, have been issued: of the 
 Essex Archceol. Soc, which has still to earn the London 
 topographer's thanks. The j^ublications of the London 
 and Middlesex Soc. have been for the most part extremely 
 well illustrated, and the reader will be influenced in his 
 judgment of the separate articles by the waiter's name, 
 but a few very valuable papers have appeared in the 
 'Journal.' There are, naturally, many notices of the 
 environs of London in the Transactions of the Soc. of 
 Antiquaries, the Royal Archceol. Inst., and the British 
 Archceol. Assoc. Nor should anyone who desires to study 
 the subject thoroughly omit a careful examination of the 
 facsimile Domesday Book, with the accompanying vols, 
 of notes and translation. 
 
 MIDDLESEX. 
 
 History. — The great events which have taken place in 
 the neighbourhood of London belong to the history of 
 our country at large, and it will be only necessary here 
 to make a few general observations as to the territorial 
 divisions and those circumstances by which they have 
 been modified. Middlesex, the smallest county in Eng- 
 land with the exception of Rutland, supports the largest 
 population, owing to its containing the greater part of
 
 MIDDLESEX. 3 
 
 the suburbs of London, a city which, it must be clearly 
 understood, is no part of the county, although entirely 
 surrounded by it. Strictly speaking, although London 
 has sometimes been reckoned the ancient capital of 
 Essex, it is not the county town of Middlesex, this dis- 
 tinction belonging to Brentford (see). The name may either 
 be derived from the situation of the county between Essex, 
 Wessex, and Sussex, or from the existence of a race of 
 "Middle Saxons." And our earliest authorities make 
 it a kind of debatable country, covered with a vast forest, 
 and nourishing a very scanty population. It was 
 traversed by some of the great roads leading to London, 
 but it is on record that in several cases these roads 
 required special arrangements for their i)rotection, owing 
 to the facilities for brigandage offered by the great 
 forest of Middlesex. Of this forest there are still remains, 
 some of which are noticed in the following pages, and 
 others, as Hyde Park, the Eegent's Park, and St. John's 
 Wood, are so near our eyes as to be easily overlooked. 
 Li the Domesday Smwey we have the fii'st succinct de- 
 scription of 3Iiddlesex as a county. We find that it 
 contained six Hundreds — namely, Edmonton, Gore, El- 
 thorn, Hounslow, Spelthorn, and Ossulston ; and that 
 these Hundreds were divided into upwards of 80 manors, 
 of each of which an account is given. The Hundred of 
 Ossulston contained a greater part of the land immedi- 
 ately adjoining the city, and was therefore the part most 
 rapidly absorbed. It has disappeared from the modem 
 lists, which stands thus— Edmonton, Elthorn, Gore, Isle- 
 worth, Kensington, and Spelthorpe or Spelthorn. 
 
 It may be worth while to remark here, with regard to 
 so complicated a subject as manorial history, that there 
 is reason to believe that at first the manor and the parish 
 were conterminous, that the "home park" became 
 gradually separated from the rest of the manor, and that 
 a large number of new manors were created, especially 
 as the population increased, until this subdivision was 
 prohibited by statute in 1290. In the neighbourhood of 
 London this subdivision Avent on with such rapidity as 
 in many cases to obliterate the original manor altogether, 
 and it has often been remarked that hardly any families 
 remain in Middlesex which have been seated within the 
 county for a hundred years. There is not a single land- 
 owner whose ancestor held the same land in the reign 
 
 B 2
 
 4 GENEEAL SKETCH. 
 
 of King Henry YII. When the Saxons first occupied 
 London, it is probable that great empty spaces remained 
 within the wall. By degrees these were filled up, and 
 the population spread beyond. The wall was pushed 
 forward to Holborn, and subsequently, as dry land 
 ajjpeared on the south side of the Strand, to Temple Bar. 
 In the time of the Civil War it was found necessary to 
 make fresh fortifications beyond the limit of inhabited 
 streets, and a series of defences, entering Middlesex at 
 Millbank, traversed Hyde Park, and went by " Mount " 
 Street, Wardour Street, St. Giles', Finsbury, and Mile 
 End, to Stepney. Now these boundaries have been 
 largely overpassed, and in order to get " out of town" we 
 must make a circle of four miles at least from Charing 
 Cross to exclude such urban places as Kensington, 
 Marylebone, or Hackney. The history, therefore, of 
 Middlesex is the history of the growth of London. As 
 showing what this growth has been, it is worth while to 
 give the population of a few parishes in 1809 and in 1871. 
 Lysons gives the number of houses in parishes, with 
 a view to enable a rough estimate to be made. From 
 a comparison of his table with the numbers of the popula- 
 tion as given in the last Census, it is easy to gather an 
 idea of the increase. Thus Friern Barnet, which in 
 1809 contained 80 houses, has now a population of 4347 
 persons. Kingsbury and Edgware, on the other hand, 
 are pretty stationary. Twyford, in Lysons' time, is 
 returned as containing 2 houses ; Mr. Thorne says there 
 are now 8. In the adjoining parish of Perivale there 
 were in 1809 only 5 houses ; in 1871, 7 and 33 inhabit- 
 ants. Against a few places which thus remain but little 
 influenced, we must put the enormous populations of such 
 parishes as St. Pancras, which in 1809 contained only 
 5550 houses, but has now upwards of 24,000 ; St. Maryle- 
 bone had 8330, and has now 16,340 ; Limehouse had 1204, 
 and has now 4083 ; Kensington had 1500, and has now 
 nearly 38,000; Chelsea had 2600, and has now four times 
 as many ; while Fulham, which seventy years ago had 
 about 800 houses, has now nearly 3500. 
 
 The great Middlesex forest remained until after the 
 dissolution of the monasteries, to which a great part had 
 belonged. The Abbey of St. Albans owned the " South 
 Haw," an immense tract round Barnet. The Abbey of 
 Westminster had Hyde, Kensington, and Hampstead ;
 
 MIDDLESEX. O 
 
 the Knights Hospitallers, St. John's Wood and Tyburn 
 Heath; and other hunting grounds were in posses- 
 sion of St. Paul's Cathedral and its prebendaries. At 
 the Eeformation almost all this i^roperty came to the 
 Crown, and an immense estate in the suburbs is still, on 
 this account, Crown land. But the chief estates were 
 sold or granted away by Henry YIII. and James I., 
 especially the latter, who when he came to the throne 
 could ride on his own land from Whitehall by St. James's, 
 through Hyde Park and St. Marylebone to St. Pancras. 
 Henry YIII. sold or granted away Hampstead, and his 
 son, Edward YI., Stepney. The more distant manors 
 were likewise alienated, and by degrees subdivided, 
 until very few estates remained complete as they were in 
 the 16th century. The number of small freeholders in 
 Middlesex is, however, much lessened by the existence of 
 such great estates as those of the Dukes of Westminster, 
 Bedford, and Portland, Lords Portman, Southampton, 
 Camden, and others, upon whose land no small freeholds 
 can exist. As these estates are close about the city 
 on the N., people who wish for land on which to build 
 are driven farther off, into Kent or Surrey, and to this 
 cause must in part be attributed the popularity of the 
 southern suburbs for villa builders. 
 
 With respect to architectural and other monuments 
 now remaining in Middlesex, the fate of the old families 
 may be taken as symbolical. Just as the estates have 
 gone from one family to another, and have been divided 
 and laid out and built over, so the churches and houses 
 have undergone constant changes, and there does not 
 remain within the boundaries of Middlesex a single great 
 building which dates from the 14th century, if we except 
 AYestminster Abbey. The churches were at first very 
 small and poor. The country, as we have said, was 
 sparsely inhabited. Building stone was not to be had ; 
 and there is not now a single first-rate parish church — not 
 one to be compared, for instance, with such buildings as 
 the great minsters of Somersetshire or Yorkshire, where 
 good stone was abundant. Of manor houses, too, very 
 few of any antiquity remain. Of such remains as 
 barrows, camps, and earthworks, prehistoric Eoman 
 or Saxon, there are one or two, but they are not 
 easily preserved where buUding is active, and though 
 Primrose Hill remains, the camp at St Pancras has dis-
 
 6 GENERAL SKETCH. 
 
 appeared. On the other hand, Middlesex abounds in 
 
 places which are of interest on account of their having 
 
 been the scenes of great events, and a short list, alpha- 
 betically arranged, of such places within the 12m. circle 
 
 is subjoined : — 
 
 ACTOX.— Defeat of Royalists by Earl of Essex, 1642. 
 
 Brentford. — Defeat of Danes' by Edmund, 1016. Defeat of Parlia- 
 mentary army by Prince Piupert, 1642. 
 
 CniswiCK. — Residence of Hogarth till his death, 1764. In Chiswick 
 House d. C. J. Fox, 1806, and Geo. Canning, 1827. 
 
 Edgware. — Site of forge where Handel heard the " Harmonious 
 Blacksmith." 
 
 Edmonton. — Burial place of Charles Lamb, d. 1834. 
 
 FiNCHLEY. — "Where Jack Sheppard was captured, 1724. Resting 
 place of Monk's army, 1660. The " Guards March to Finchley," 
 to meet the Pretender, caricatured by Hogarth, 1745. 
 
 FuLHAM. — Residence of Bps. of London for at least 1000 years. At 
 North End, Richardson wrote ' Clarissa Harlow,' &c. 
 
 Greenford Green. — Where aniline dyes were first used. 
 
 Hadley Common.— Site of so-called " Battle of Barnet," 1471, 
 where the King-maker was defeated and slain. 
 
 Hammersmith. — W^here, in Brandenburg House, Queen Caroline 
 resided during her trial, 1820. 
 
 Hampstead. — Where Keats wrote the " Ode to a Nightingale." 
 
 Hajmpton Court. — Where council met which condemned Mary 
 Stuart, 1568 ; scene of conference between Prelates and Presby- 
 terians, 1604 ; in the Park William HI. had his fatal fall, 1702. 
 
 Harrow. — At the school Byron, Sheridan, Perceval, Peel, Palmer- 
 ston, &:c., were educated. 
 
 Heston. — Where, at Spring Grove, died Sir Joseph Banks, 1820. 
 
 Highgate. — Where Whittington heard Bow bells; where Lord 
 Bacon d. 1626, and Coleridge, the poet, 1834. 
 
 HORNSEY. — Where the Duke of Gloucester lived when the Duchess 
 and others were said to have bewitched Henry YL Samuel 
 Rogers buried, 1855. 
 
 HouNSLOW. — Where the army of James IL was encamped during 
 the trial of the bishops in 1687. 
 
 ISLEWORTH. — Where, in Sion House, the crown was offered to Lady 
 Jane Grey. 
 
 OsTERLEY. — Where Sir Thos. Gresham entertained Queen Elizabeth, 
 1578. 
 
 Tottenham. — Where two divisions of the manor belonged respec- 
 tively to Bruce and Baliol. Bruce Castle was the school 
 where Sir Rowland Hill taught before he invented postage 
 stamps. 
 
 Twickenham. — The birthplace of Queen Anne, 1664. Here Kneller 
 died 1723, and Pope, 1744.
 
 MIDDLESEX. 7 
 
 Geology. — The greater part of Middlesex, and all the 
 portion within the 12m. circle, is situated in the London 
 clay, which in a few places is surmounted by a bed of 
 sand, or one of sand and gravel of varying thickness. 
 Such beds occur on the summits of Highgate, Hampstead, 
 and Harrow Hills, where a cap of Bagshot sand lies on a 
 gravelly clay bed, and that again on the London clay. 
 Chiswick, Fulham, and Hammersmith are on brick earth, 
 which also occurs at Islington and Highbury. A range 
 of heights runs from the Brent near Hendon, to the Lea, 
 E. of Stoke Newington; among them are Hampstead, 
 430 ft.; Highgate, 412; Muswell, 335; Crouch, 226; 
 Stamford, 97, and other hills. Xorth of this range, as 
 far as Barnet, glacial drift beds occur, rich in fossils, and 
 sometimes, as at Finchley, of considerable interest from 
 the position of the strata. In ancient, but not pre- 
 historic, times a number of streams took their rise north 
 of London, but almost all have now disappeared. The 
 Brent, on the west, rises at Mill Hill, near Finchley, and 
 flows into the Thames at Brentford. The Lea, which 
 separates Essex from Middlesex, was formerly a tidal 
 estuary, but is now much reduced, and divided into a 
 number of small streams, most of them canalized. There 
 is no river between these two, but the Westbourn, Ivil- 
 bourn, Tybourn, St. Marybourn, and especially the Hole- 
 bourn, which became towards the end of its course the 
 Fleet river, may be mentioned as having existed. The 
 Walbrook divided the City into two parts, and some 
 have made the Sherbourn a stream, but it was probably 
 only the fosse of a fortress. The course of the Thames 
 through the environs of London may be noticed here. 
 It first reaches Middlesex at a lock a little west of Staines. 
 At Kingston it enters the 12m. circle. It then runs 
 nearly due N., but by a winding course to Brentford, 
 where it turns to the E. and enters the 4m. cii'cle at 
 Wandsworth. Its width at Chiswick, opposite Barnes, 
 is only 340 ft. At Hammersmith it is 525 ft. ; at Fulham, 
 820 ; and above the junction of the Lea, at the Isle of 
 Dogs, it has expanded to 1350 feet. Opposite Victoria 
 Docks it attains its greatest width within the 12m. 
 circle — namely, 2200 ft.
 
 GENERAL SKETCH. 
 
 ESSEX. 
 
 History. — As in the neighbouring county of Middlesex, 
 a gi'eat part of that district of Essex which lies within 
 the 12m. circle was covered with forest, and so remained 
 almost until our own day. It was only in 1851 that 
 leave was obtained from Parliament to cut downHainault 
 Forest, and, owing to the exertions of the Corporation of 
 London, a portion of Epping Forest still remains. The 
 great manors of Barking and Dagenham, which from 
 time immemorial belonged to the Abbey of Barking, 
 comprised nearly all the land within our limits, and its 
 history is singularly uneventful, except as forming part 
 of a kingdom, that of the East Saxons, whose capital 
 seems usually to have been London. The Bishops of 
 London were, until 1845, Bishops of Essex, having their 
 cathedral at St. Paul's, in which church the earliest 
 Christian kings of Essex were buried. In the Middle 
 Ages the western parts of Essex were more popular with 
 rich London citizens for villa residences than they are 
 now, and are comparatively rich in fine old houses ; 
 many were also built during the 17th and 18th centuries, 
 and the tourist in search of " Queen Anne " cannot do 
 better than visit Ilford, Barking, or Walthamstow. 
 Among the places of historical interest within 12m. may 
 be mentioned the following : — 
 
 Barkestg, — Site of the chief and oldest abbey for women in England. 
 
 Dagenham. — Where, in 1376, an inundation covered an immense 
 tract, partially reclaimed by embankments since. The annual 
 inspection of the bank originated the ministerial fish dinner 
 now eaten at Greenwich. 
 
 East Ham. — Where, at Plashet, Mrs. Fry lived for many years. 
 
 Epping. — The scene of the annual hunt on Easter Monday, discon- 
 tinued in 1853. 
 
 Havering. — Where Edward the Confessor was warned of his death 
 by St. John, accoi-ding to the legend. 
 
 High Beech. — Where Tennyson wrote ' Locksley Hall,' ' The Talk- 
 ing Oak,' &c. 
 
 Plaistow. — Where, in the Friends' Meeting House, now the Board 
 School, Elizabeth Fry sometimes preached. 
 
 Stratford. — Where Queen Matilda built a bridge in the 12th 
 century. 
 
 Waltham Abbey. — Where Harold was buried, 1066.
 
 ESSEX. 9 
 
 Geology. — The estuary of the Lea, which forms the 
 boundary between Essex and Middlesex, is now only 
 marked by a number of small streams which flow into 
 the Thames, E. of the Isle of Dogs, which, with the flat 
 meadows N., extending as far as Tottenham, may be 
 reckoned the delta of the Lea. In all this district the 
 soil is a rich peaty alluvium. It is bordered on the E. by 
 a line of low sand hills, and the rest of the district is 
 either sandy or gravelly, except along the border of the 
 Thames, where the peat is again present, and in the 
 neighbourhood of Snaresbrook, where clay, sandy clay, 
 and brick earth alternate with the sand, along a line of 
 heights, some of which reach an elevation, as at Waltham- 
 stow, of 100 feet. Discoveries of mammalians of large 
 size have been made along the valley of the Lea from 
 time to time, belonging to the pleistocene and post- 
 pliocene periods, and also a large number of both 
 flint and bronze implements. At Ilford similar remains 
 have been found in the lower brick earth underlying the 
 gravel, including the teeth of as many as 100 elephants, 
 besides 16 other species. These examples were presented 
 by Sir A. Brady to the British Museum. 
 
 HERTFORDSHIRE . 
 
 History. — So small a portion of this county enters into 
 the 12m. circle that a very brief notice only will be 
 appropriate here : but among the most interesting ex- 
 cursions in the vicinity of London will be found those to 
 St. Albans and Hatfield, both in Herts. The name of 
 the county has been a subject of controversy. It has 
 been taken to refer to the wooded condition of the greater 
 part of its surface, and to the forest inhabitants. Hart- 
 ford, A.S. Eeortforda, is the usual derivation. But the 
 name of Hertingfordbury, a parish situated close to the 
 county town, may be taken to point to a mark of the 
 Hartingas, and so give the name a difl'erent origin. The 
 portion which comes within our limits divides W hetstone 
 from Monken Hadley, both in Middlesex, and contains 
 several places of note, such as Totteridge, part of South- 
 gate, Chipping Barnet, and East Barnet. It is about 
 6m. wide from N.W. to S.E., and about 2|m. from N. to 
 S. A few miles to the eastward, again, a portion of 
 Cheshunt and Waltham Cross come within the circle.
 
 10 GENERAL SKETCH. 
 
 including TlicobalcVs Park, so celebrated for its (now 
 departed) magnificence under James I. 
 
 The geology of these small portions of Hertfordshire 
 offers no feature of interest. Clay and gravel, in various 
 proportions, everywhere form the soil. 
 
 KENT. 
 
 History. — A very small district of this great county 
 comes within our limits. Like London, Kent retains its 
 Celtic name. The western portion, next to London, and 
 forming the original diocese of Rochester, was under the 
 Saxons the small and obscure kingdom of West Kent. 
 Mr. Bevan has summarized the history of the county in 
 his ' Tourist's Guide to Kent,' and it will only be necessary 
 here to point out a few of the sites of historical interest 
 in the small portion included by the 12m. circle. 
 
 Bromley. — Long the residence of the Bps. of Rochester. 
 
 Chislehurst. — Where Napoleon III. d. 1873. 
 
 Crayford. — Where Hengest and his son defeated the Britons, 457. 
 
 Deptford. — Where Peter the Great studied shipbuilding, 1698. 
 
 Eltiiam. — Favourite residence of Edward IV. and Henry VII. 
 
 Greenwich. — Birthplace of Henry VIII., 1491 ; Queen 5larT, 1516 ; 
 Queen Elizabeth, 1533. Here Edward VI. d. 1553. On Black- 
 heath, Wat. Tyler encamped, 1381, and Jack Cade, 1449. 
 
 Hayes.— Where Earl of Chatham d. 1779, and William Pitt b. 1757. 
 
 Keston. — Favourite residence of William Pitt. 
 
 Geology. — There is more variety in the geological 
 features of the right bank of the Thames than in those of 
 the left. At Deptford and N. of Greenwich along the 
 river bank, there are deep peaty marshes, interrupted at 
 Woolwich, where the strata of chalk and gi-eensand come 
 do^m to the water's edge ; but the marsh recommences 
 at Plumstead, just beyond. The marshes have for the 
 most part a coating of clay, in places as much as 10 ft. 
 thick, and under it, in the peat, organic remains are 
 frequently found. At Erith the Thanet sands may be 
 studied, as well as the formations known as the Wool- 
 wich, Reading, and Oldhaven beds. South of this coast- 
 line the hills rise to a considerable height, Greenwich 
 reaching 145 ft., and Shooter's Hill 210 ft. Between this 
 and Eltham the chalk, London clay, and greensand are 
 much mixed, the palace at Eltham being on sand, the 
 Great Park on chalk, and the Middle Park on clay. The
 
 KENT. 11 
 
 clialk increases in frequency towards the south, and 
 except for occasional beds of brick earth and gravel, 
 fonns the soil of the rest of the district. The Eavens- 
 bourne rises at Keston, and, passing through Bromley 
 and Lewisham, falls into the Thames at Deptford. The 
 Cray rises near OiTpingion, and passes in order through 
 St. Mary Cray, St. Paul's Cray, Foot's Cray, North Cray, 
 Bexley, and Crayford, and joins the Darenth at Joyce's 
 Green, about Im. from the Thames. 
 
 SURREY. 
 
 History. — Including as it does the great suburban 
 districts surrounding Southwark, Lambeth, Camberwell, 
 and Bermondsey, the small division of Surrey comprised 
 in our circle of 12m. contains some of the most remark- 
 able places in English history. As this forms so incon- 
 siderable a part of the whole county, it may be best to 
 give merely a list of the principal historical sites, pre- 
 mising that the name of the county is derived from that 
 of the obscure Saxon kingdom of Surrey, and may refer 
 to its situation. Southwark is on the South, or Southern, 
 Ey, still commemorated in the name of the church of St. 
 Mary, Over-ey. In old English the kingdom was 
 " Sutherege," and later, the county " Sutherey." 
 
 Barnes. — Where, on three occasions. Sir F. Walsingham enter- 
 tained Queen Elizabeth. 
 Carshalton. — Where Dr. Eadcliffe d. 1714. 
 Croydon. — Long the residence of the Abps. of Canterbury ; where 
 
 Abp. Parker received Queen Elizabeth in 1573. 
 Kew. — Where Princess Dowager, mother of George III., founded the 
 
 Botanical Gardens. 
 Kingston. — Where sereral early kings were crowned, 924-1016 ; 
 
 where Sir T. Wyatt crossed the Thames in 1554. 
 Merton. — Where Lord Nelson lived, 1801-1805. 
 Nonsuch, near Cheam, now pulled down; favourite residence of 
 
 Heniy YIII. and Queen Elizabeth. 
 Petersham. — Scene of Jeannie Deans's interview with the Duke of 
 
 Argyll. 
 Putney. — Birthplace of Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex ; and of 
 
 Edward Gibbon, historian, b. 1737. Here William Pitt d. 1806. 
 PviCHMOND.— Where Henry YIL d., 1509 ; Queen Elizabeth, 1603 ; 
 
 Dean Colet, 1519 ; Thomson, poet, 1748. 
 Streatham. — Where Dr. Johnson visited the Thrales. 
 WniBLEDON, probably same as Wibbandune, where Ceawlin, King 
 
 of Wesses, defeated Ethelbert, King of Kent, 568. Here Lord 
 
 Burleigh lived while he was Secretary.
 
 12 GENERAL SKETCH. 
 
 Geology,— Few counties in England have had more 
 attention paid to their geological history, and the reader 
 may be referred to the works of Mantell, Buckland, 
 Lyell, Dawkins, &c. The part of Surrey which lies 
 within 12 miles of London presents features of nearly all 
 the formations. The bank of the Thames is chiefly of 
 the eocene period, consisting of Bagshot sands and 
 London clay. Farther south we come to the cretaceous, 
 or chalky deposits, which may be best seen between 
 Croydon on the E. and Banstead on the W., the stratifica- 
 tion being well exposed by a railway cutting at Cater- 
 ham June. Stn. The Wealden strata do not come within 
 the 12m. circle. The alluvial beds about Streatham and 
 Tooting should be noticed, and there are other post- 
 tertiary deposits near the bank of the river which yield 
 interesting recent fossils. For the most part, however, 
 these deposits are now built over, and difficult of ex- 
 amination. Peat may be found between the range of 
 hills of which Sydenham is the most remarkable, and the 
 river's edge, much of Southwark and adjacent suburbs 
 lying at the water level, or even below it at high tides. 
 A group of high hills bounds this district on the south, 
 and formed no doubt at one time the southern, as High- 
 gate and Hampstead Hills were the northern, banks of a 
 great inland lagoon. They are Brixton, Tulse, Heme, 
 Bedpost, Denmark, and Telegraph Hills, making an 
 inner line ; and Balham, Streatham, Norwood, Syden- 
 ham, Forest, Honour Oak, and Nunhead Hills forming 
 an outer line ; both lines meeting at the county border, 
 near Deptford. All these eminences are mainly of the 
 London clay, but interspersed with isolated beds of sand, 
 sometimes of the Bagshot, and sometimes of a more 
 alluvial deposit. Persons choosing a residence in the 
 suburbs of London on this side should make careful 
 examination of the geological formation of the site, as 
 the healthiness of a house often greatly depends upon its 
 standing on the sand rather than the clay, although the 
 two formations are closely interwoven, so to speak, in 
 this district, and are not distinguished, in consequence, 
 on the geological map.
 
 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 Abbey Wood, Kent. (S.E.) 
 
 \?yni.from Charing Cross Stn. 
 Is named from the ruins of Lesnes Abbey (Angustinian 
 Canons), which now consist only of a wall, part of the 
 Eefectory. The southern outfall of the main drainage of 
 London is in the marshes at Crossness, about Ism. X. of 
 railway station. (See Flurnstead.) 
 
 Acton, Middlesex. (W.) 
 
 5m. from Paddington Stn. Pop. 8400. 
 
 Sometimes called West Acton. 
 
 History. — This manor, with Ealing, was probably 
 included in Fulham at the time of Domesday Sm^vey ; 
 belongs to the Bishop of London. A battle between the 
 Earl of Essex and the forces of Charles I. under the 
 Earl of Warwick took place at the southern side of the 
 parish, now called Acton Green. A procession consisting 
 of 300 coaches from the City of London met Cromwell at 
 Acton on his return from Worcester, and presented, by 
 the Eecorder, a congTatulatory address. 
 
 The eminent residents have been : — Eichard Baxter, the 
 Nonconformist Divine, in a house near the church (now 
 pulled dowTi) ; Sir Matthew Hale, General Skippon, one of 
 Cromwell's House of Lords; in the same house after- 
 wards lived Lady Derwentwater, who is said to have been 
 here when the Earl was beheaded ; at Fordhook, at the 
 western end of the town. Fielding, the novehst ; at Fair- 
 lawn, J. B. Nichols, the antiquary. Among the rectors 
 have been Philip Xye, the Puritan, mentioned by Butler 
 in Hudibras ; Eyves, author of the ' Mercurius Eusticus ' ; 
 Edward Pan-y, son of Sir Edward Parry, the Arctic 
 explorer, and now Bishop of Dover.
 
 14 BOUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 The Church was rebuilt in 18G5, except tlie tower, 
 which is 100 years older. In the former church Baxter 
 attended service and occasionally preached. Eegister 
 commences in 1539. The living is a rectory, worth 650^., 
 in the gift of the Bp. of London. 
 
 Addington, Surrey. 
 
 2^m.from South Croydon Stii., 10m. from Victoria Stn. 
 Pop. 639. 
 
 History. — Called Edintone in D.S., when it contained 
 two manors : one belonged afterwards to the Knights 
 Templars ; the other, known as Bardolph's, was given by 
 William I. to Tezelin, his cook, to be held by the tenure 
 of presenting a dish at the Coronation, called hastias, 
 perhaps "hasty pudding." W. Leigh Spencer presented 
 a dish of pottage at the coronation of George III. The 
 manor in 1808 was sold by W. Coles to the Archbishop 
 of Canterbury (Sutton) as a summer residence instead of 
 Croydon. It is said that Abp. Howley, being displeased 
 at the destruction of his gardens at Lambeth by the 
 smoke, made this his chief residence, and bestowed much 
 attention on improving the park. The original house 
 was on Castle Hill. A second mansion was built at the 
 foot, on which was this inscription — 
 
 " In fourteen hundred and none 
 Here was neither stick nor stone ; 
 In fourteen hundred and three 
 The goodly building which you see." 
 
 This "goodly building" was pulled down about 1780, 
 vv'hen the present manor-house, about h ni. off, was 
 finished ; in 1830 Abp. Howley added the chapel, library 
 and other rooms to suit it to his official position. 
 
 The Church (St. Mary's). — Exterior modern, having 
 been repaired by Alderman Trecothick, 1773, and by Abp. 
 Howley,184:3. Interior: chancel, Norman ; Nave,E.E.Monu- 
 nients : brasses of John Leigh, 1509 ; his widow, Isabel 
 Harvey, 1544 ; Thos. Hatteclyff and Anne, his wife, 1540. 
 Effigies of Nicholas Leigh, 1565, and Anne Carew, his wife ; 
 John Leigh, 1576, and Joan Oliph, his wife ; Sir Oliph 
 Leigh and Jane Browne, his wife, 1611. L>n and tablet 
 to Barlow Trecothick, 1775. Tablet to Abp. Sutton, 
 1828. Altar tomb to Abp. Howley,- 1848. Tablet to 
 Abp. Sumner. In the churchyard are the gi'avestones of
 
 BARKING. 15 
 
 Viscount Canterbury, 1848, Speaker from 1817 to 1835 ; 
 and of Abp. Longley, 1868. The living is a vicarage in 
 the gift of the Archbishop, and worth 250/. per annum. 
 
 Adding-ton is a pleasant walk of 3m. S. by E. from the 
 East Croydon Stn. by Shirley, passing Addiscombe on 
 the left, soon after leaving Croydon (see Addisco^ibe, under 
 Ckotdox). On the common have been found a number of 
 prehistoric barrows. 
 
 The Park is best reached from the South Croydon Stn,, 
 by Combe Lane and pleasant paths over the hill, from 
 which there is a fine view. 
 
 Addiscombe, Surrey. See Croydon. 
 
 Aldborough, Essex. 
 
 2m. N.E. from Ilford Stn., Hm.from Liverpool St. Stn. 
 
 Pop. 430. 
 Formerly a portion of the pansh of Barking, and con- 
 sisting of forest land, in which stood a good house, Aid- 
 borough Hatch, or Gate; but now a separate district, 
 with a large model farm. 
 
 The Church (St. Peter's) was built in 1863. 
 
 Anerley, Surrey. (S.E.) 
 
 Ihn.from London Bridge Stn. 
 A modern hamlet of villas, at the entrance of the 
 grounds of the Crystal Palace. Xame said to be derived 
 from the Scottish "anely," lonely, owing to its former 
 secluded position. 
 
 Barking, Essex. 
 
 8m. from Liverpool St. Stn., or from Fenchurch St. Stn, 
 Pop. of present par. ^ 6059. 
 
 History. — Called Berchinga in D.S. Probably the 
 " mark " of the Beorcingas, an East Saxon tribe. The parish 
 was 30m, in circumference at the beginning of this century, 
 but has been largely reduced by successive divisions of 
 districts (see Great Ilford, Barking Side, and Ald- 
 borough). The manor belonged from time immemorial 
 to the Abbey, founded, according to tradition, in 670 by 
 Erkenwald, Bishop of London, A charter granting land 
 to the convent is among the most ancient documents of 
 the kind in existence (Cott. MSS., Aug, ii. 26), probably 
 dating from the foui'th quarter of the 7tli century.
 
 16 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 Another charter in existence is a p^ant by William I., 
 who had laid his " cultellum " (knife or dagger) on the 
 altar as a pledge. The first abbess was Ethelburga, or 
 Hedilburga, sister of Erkenwald. She and her brother 
 were both subsequently canonized. The abbey was 
 burned by the Danes, 870. Eebuilt about 950 by King 
 Edgar. Five abbesses were canonized before the Xorman 
 Conquest. Mary, sister of Abp. Becket, was abbess in 
 the reign of Henry II. Eleanor de Bohun, widow of 
 Thomas of Woodstock, Duke of Gloucester, d. in the 
 convent in 1399. A petition to King Henry VI. in 1441, 
 complains that the "school fees" of his young step- 
 brothers, the sons of Owen Tudor and Katherine of 
 France, had not been paid for two years, during which 
 they had lived at the Abbey, at the expense of the abbess. 
 The last abbess was Dorothy Barley, who surrendered to 
 Henry VIII. in 1539. The revenues were valued at 
 1084/., equal to upwards of 20,000/. a year now, but the 
 great power and wealth of the house cannot be estimated 
 by money. The abbess was a peeress of the realm, the 
 owner of " thirteen knights fees and a half," the lady of 
 Becontree and Barnstaple Hundreds, of 27 manors, and 
 the patroness of 15 livings, including All-Hallows, Bark- 
 ing, near the Tower, and St. Margaret, Lothbury, re- 
 ceiving a pension of 200 marks. She had houses in 
 London, at Ingatestone, and other places, and lived in 
 great state, with her private chaplains, esquires, gentle- 
 men, ladies, clerks, and other subordinate attendants. 
 She took precedence of all other abbesses, and was often of 
 noble or royal blood. At the Eeformation the monastery 
 was suffered to decay. The only vestige now remaining 
 is the E.E. archway by which entrance is obtained to a 
 market garden. The abbey stood on the N. side of the 
 church, and included a noble church of its own, according 
 to excavations made in the last century, 170 ft. long. 
 
 The Chuech (vSt. Margaret's). — There is an ancient gate 
 to the churchyard, known as the Fire Bell Gate ; a chapel 
 dedicated to the " Holy Eood " is over the archway. The 
 style is Late Decorated. The church presents few 
 features of interest, but the view from the top of the 
 tower is fine on a clear day. It is 72 feet high. There 
 are six unimportant brasses. The monuments are not 
 very interesting. S. of chancel is that of Sir Charles 
 Montague, of Cranbrook, d. 1G25. The living is a
 
 BARNES. 17 
 
 vicarage in the gift of All Souls', Oxon, and is worth 
 830?. a year. The register begins in 1558. 
 
 There is little of interest in the town. Although the 
 outfall of the northern main drainage of London is close by, 
 the streets are full of bad smells, and the drainage very 
 imperfect. A long embankment brings the pipes from 
 Bow across the marshes of the Lea to Barking Creek. 
 The embankment is constructed of concrete, but is 
 covered with grass, except where it crosses one of the 
 arms of the river by means of a bridge or aqueduct. The 
 pumping station is very conspicuous from its Oriental 
 design and the tall minarets, really chimneys, by which 
 it is flanked. The works were opened by the Prince 
 of Wales in 1865. An immense reservoir holding 39 
 million gallons of sewage is discharged into the Thames 
 at the rate of about 10 million cubic feet per day. 
 
 Im. S.E. is Eastbury House, recently restored. It is 
 " an ancient and very spacious brick edifice," built in the 
 16th century. Lord Monteagle resided in the parish 
 about the time of the Gunpowder Plot, and is said to 
 have occupied this house. But he was at Hoxton when 
 he received the famous letter. 
 
 Bnrking Side is 5m. from the town. It contains a 
 modern church, and is a separate ecclesiastical district. 
 The famous Fairlop Fair was formerly held here on the 
 first Friday in July. Fairlop Oak, which in Gilpin's time 
 overshadowed a space of 3o0 ft. in cii'cumference, was 
 blown down in 1820. 
 
 A large portion of EainauU Forest was in the manor and 
 parish of Barking. It belonged to the Crown, and was 
 disafi'orested in 1851, the trees, about 100,000 in number, 
 being felled, and the ground drained, fenced, and laid 
 out in farms. 
 
 Barnes, Surrey. (S.W.) 
 
 7m. from Waterloo Stn. Pop. 5000. 
 
 A small parish, situated between Putney (E.) and 
 Mortlake (W.), on the bank of the Thames. It occupies 
 the peninsula formed by the river in its bend, between 
 Mortlake and Putney. The manor has belonged to the 
 Chapter of St. Paul's from time immemorial. 
 
 The Chuech (St. Mary's) used to be considered one of 
 the oldest in the neighbourhood of London, but has been 
 so thoroughly restored as to present no features of
 
 18 
 
 EOUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 interest. On the exterior see the tomb of Edward Eose, 
 d. 1653, who left 20/!. to the parish to buy an acre of 
 land for the benefit of the poor, and to keep the rose trees 
 alive on his grave. There are some quaint tablets. The 
 register dates from 1538. The living is a rectory; 
 patrons, Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's; income, 415^. 
 
 Barnes Common almost adjoins Putney Heath and 
 \Vinibledon Common, and the excursionist may follow 
 several pleasant roads to Eichmond Park. In Milbourne 
 House on the Common lived Fielding, the novelist. 
 
 Barn Elms is seen on the right from the railw^ay on 
 reaching Barnes Common Stn. Here on three occasions 
 Sir F. Walsingham entertained Queen Elizabeth. Cowley, 
 the poet, lived in the Park in 1663 and following years, 
 and Pepys visited him here. It was here that Buckingham 
 killed Shrewsbury in a duel in 1678, when Lady Shrews- 
 bury is said to have held Buckingham's horse, disguised 
 as a groom. The famous portraits of the Kit-Cat Club 
 were hung in a room built for them at Barn Elms, which 
 Tonson rented. He died here in 1735. The portraits are 
 preserved by his descendants at Bayfordbury Park, near 
 Hertford. They are forty-two in number, and include 
 many remarkable persons of the Queen Anne period. 
 
 Barnet, Herts. 
 
 11m. /rom King's Cross Stn. Pop. 38C0. 
 
 Also known as Chipping Barnet and High Barnet, to 
 distinguish it from Friern Barnet, in jMiddlesex, and 
 East Barnet, the adjoining parish. All are in N. postal 
 district except the first. 
 
 History. — This parish with East Barnet formed a 
 single manor in the possession of the Abbey of St. Albans, 
 the whole surface being probably covered by the South 
 Haw, or wood, Avhich was a relic of the ancient forest, 
 on the north side of London. The wood, which har- 
 boured robbers, was cleared for a certain space on each 
 side of the high road by Abbot Leofstan, of St. Albans, 
 in the reign of Edward the Confessor. 
 
 The battle of Barnet was fought on Easter Sunday, 
 April 14, 1471, between Edward TV. and the "King- 
 maker." An obelisk, which stands about |m. N. of the 
 town, commemorates the battle. Hadley, or Monken 
 Hadley Green, seems to be the exact place. Warwick 
 was killed, and his army defeated.
 
 EARNET. 
 
 19 
 
 The Church (St. John the Baptist). — Erected in or before 
 the beginning of the 15th century, by Abbot de la Moote, 
 of St. Albans. A handsome edifice, well situated, origi- 
 nally built in the Perp. style. Some features of the 
 Stuart period, including a vestry, were added cir. 1629. 
 But a thorough restoration has entirely altered its ancient 
 character, the chancel and other parts having been 
 rebuilt in 1874. The old church, according to an inscrip- 
 tion in the nave, was founded by John Beauchamp. He 
 may have been the architect, but more probably he was 
 a contributor to the expenses. There are some quaint 
 monuments of the Eavenscrofts. See an epitaph on 
 Thomasin Eavenscroft, d. 1611. Till lately this church 
 was a curacy to East Barnet. 
 
 The to-^Ti was of great resort in coaching days, and 
 declined at the introduction of railways, but is now 
 reviving. The street, with Monken Hadley to the N., 
 stretches about l^m. along the road. In Wood Street is 
 an almshouse, Jesus Hospital, founded by James Eavens- 
 croft in 1679, and another named after its founder, John 
 Garrett, a hundred years later. They are for six poor 
 women each, the qualification for the Jesus Hospital 
 being peculiar, as the women are not to be addicted to 
 sorcery, witchcraft, or charming. There is also, in the 
 same street, a school founded by Queen Elizabeth. 
 There are other charitable foundations of more modern 
 date, including the Leathersellers' Almshouses, erected in 
 1813, and a school, &c., supported by the Patriotic Fund. 
 
 Monktn Eadl'^y closely adjoins Barnet on the north. 
 (.See.) 
 
 East Barnet lies 1 m. E. of the high road, about 2 m. 
 from Chipping Barnet, and about im. S. of Barnet Sin. 
 G.X.E. It was not a separate parish until some time 
 in the loth century, when the church was built ' at 
 Chipping Barnet, and the livings were only finally sepa- 
 rated a few years ago. It is now a rectory : patron, the 
 Crown ; income, 360/. The church (St. Mary's) present 
 a strange mixture of styles, but has few featui-es of 
 interest. See monument to General Prevost, a Genevan 
 by birth, who defended Savannah against the French and 
 Americans iu 1779. He d. 1786. Also to Julia Dechar, 
 d. 1793, with a quaint epitaph, commencing — 
 " Within the jaws of this relentless tomb. 
 The beauteous Julia meets an early doom." 
 
 c 2
 
 20 EOUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 The register of baptisms commences in 1553 ; of 
 burials 1568 ; of marriages 1582. Among the burials 
 is that of Sir Alex. Comyns, Bt., 1775, an eccentric cha- 
 racter, who, owing to a dream of his wife's, visited Ame- 
 rica in 1729, and by some means persuaded the Cherokee 
 Indians to crown him their chief. He returned to Eng- 
 land the following year, and brought six Indian chiefs 
 with him, whom he presented to George II. at Windsor. 
 He was a \isionary schemer, but engaged much atten- 
 tion in his time, and eventually became a pensioner at 
 the Charter House. His son of the same name was a 
 lunatic. Angus 3Iacaulay, author of ' Eudiments of Poli- 
 tical Science,' was buried here in 1797. Thomson, the 
 poet, was tutor in the family of Lord Binning, at the manor 
 house. An industrial school, "The Country Home," is 
 near the church. Elias Ashmole, the antiquary, lived at 
 Belmont House. Lady Arabella Stuart was confined in 
 the house of Thomas Conyers, at East Barnet, in 1611, 
 and escaped in men's apparel. 
 
 Friern Barnet is still farther south, and is across the 
 border of Middlesex, about 8m. from London, Ira. E. of 
 the north road and 3m. from Chipping Barnet. The 
 manor w^as early part of the estate of the Knights of 
 St. John. The manor house is still standing, but is 
 much altered. Here the famous Chief Justice Popham 
 resided. The church (St. James's) is small but very 
 ancient, presenting several Norman features, especially 
 the doorway. The nave is E.E., the chancel, Dec. There 
 have been modern additions. See fine elm in chm'ch- 
 yard and yew by E. end. The living is in the gift of the 
 bean and Chapter of St. Paul's, and is a rectory worth 
 290/. a year. I'he register dates from 1674. Thomas Ca- 
 vendish, father of William Cavendish, servant to Card. 
 Wolsey, and founder of the Devonshire family, had an 
 estate in the parish. About ^m. N. is }Mutstone (Tot- 
 teridge Stn. G.X.E.), now a separate ecclesiastical dis- 
 trict comprising part of Finchley. The church is Modern 
 and poor. Between Whetstone and Friern Barnet see 
 Campe's Almshouses, founded 1612, but spoilt by "resto- 
 ration "in 1843. Between Whetstone and Colney Hatch 
 on the E. of the railway is the Great Northern Cemetery, 
 and on the west side of the railway near Colney Hatch Stn. 
 is the Middlesex Lunatic Asylum. It covers 25 acres and 
 accommodates 2000 patients. It was opened in 1851, but 
 has been enlarged. The front is 1881 ft. long. The farm
 
 BECKENHAM. 21 
 
 and exercise grounds occupy about 250 acres. The annual 
 expenditure is about 60,000/. The presence of the asylum 
 being unfavourable to the district as a site for villas, the 
 parish has been named " New Southgate/' and a church 
 (St. Paul's), recently erected, bears that title. It is a 
 district, strictly speaking, of Friern Barnet. The country 
 south of Colney Hatch on both sides of the line is very 
 diversified, and well wooded. Muswell Hill, with the 
 unfortunate Alexandra Palace, and Coalfall Wood are 
 pleasing features in the landscape. (See Muswdl Hill, 
 Southgate, Hornsey, &c.) 
 
 Beckenham, Kent. 
 
 S^m.from Charing Cross Stn. Pop. 6000. 
 
 The most pleasant route to Beckenham in summer is 
 by the New Kent Pioad, New Cross, Lee, Lewisham, 
 Bushey Green, Southend, to an inn near the church and 
 railway station. A coach sometimes runs from Piccadilly. 
 
 History. — Called Bacheham in 1).S. It formed part of 
 the vast possessions of Odo, Bp. of Bayeux. Frederick 
 St. John, Tisct. Bolingbroke, sold it to .John Cator, Esq., 
 in 1773, and it still belongs to his heirs. One of them 
 built the present Beckenham Place, in the park on the E. 
 side of the coach route. It occupies the place of an older 
 manor house, rented by Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, 
 in the reign of Henry Till. Here he entertained his 
 royal brother-in-law with gi-eat magnificence. It is on 
 record that Edward Gibbon and Pitt passed a day to- 
 gether at Eden Farm, now called Eden Park (about Im. 
 S. of Stn.), in 1790. At Shortlands (l^m. S. of station, near 
 Shortlands Stn.), was born George Grote, the historian, 
 in 1794. 
 
 The Church (St. George's) stands in a well-kept church- 
 yard, in which a fine avenue of yew trees leads from the 
 ancient lich-gate to the church porch. The building is of 
 all ages from E.E. to the 17th century. Some of the 
 monuments are very interesting. That to Lady Hoare, 
 S. of chancel, is by Flaxman. There is an epitaph by 
 Gray on Mrs. Jane Gierke. A tablet commemorates 
 Capt. Hedley Yicars, 97th regiment, killed in the Crimea, 
 whose biography by Miss Marsh gave him a posthumous 
 celebrity. The authoress's father was rector of Becken- 
 ham for many years. There are also monuments to the 
 families of Style, Burrell, Damsell, &c., and four brasses. 
 In the churchyard are the graves of Edward King, the
 
 22 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 antiquary, and of several people of one hundred years of 
 age and upwards, including Margaret Finch, 109, cele- 
 brated as the Gipsy Queen, from whom Gipsy Hill at 
 Norwood is called. She died in 1740. The living is a 
 rectory in private patronage, and worth 900/. a year. 
 
 There are many handsome private seats in the neigh- 
 bourhood of jBeckenham, and a crowd of villas. One, near 
 Shortlands, designed by Norman Shaw, is the residence 
 of the author of 'John Halifax,' and other well-known 
 novels. 
 
 Beddington, Surrey. 
 
 12m. from Victoria Stn. Fop. 1499. 
 History. — A Eoman villa was discovered near the 
 river Wandle in 1871. Other remains of the same period 
 had previously been found in Beddington Park, including 
 the site of a bronze foundry for the manufacture of 
 spearheads. In 1874 a skeleton, thought to be that of a 
 Eoman soldier buried in his armour, was dug up. At the 
 Domesday Survey, Beddingtone contained two manors : 
 one came to the Carews by marriage in the reign of 
 Edward IIL They already owned the other, Beddington- 
 Huscarl, so called from a family which had held lands in 
 the parish as early as the reign of John. The Carews, 
 one of whom was beheaded by Henry VIII. for alleged 
 complicity with Cardinal Pole, 1539, remained at Bedding- 
 ton till the death of Sir Francis Carew, 1611, when their 
 heirs, the Throckmortons, took the name, and continued 
 till 1780. A third family, the Gees, then succeeded, 
 assuming also the name of Carew, and finally it came to 
 the Hallowells, who, though not descended from the 
 Carews, also took their name. One of them was the 
 famous Capt. Hallowell, of the ' Swiftsure,' who presented 
 Nelson with a coffin made of the mast of ' L' Orient,' 
 blown up at the Nile. The (Hallowell) Carews sold 
 Beddington in 1857, when the Female Orphanage, a 
 hideous building, visible from the railway, was erected on 
 the site of the manor house. The ancient hall, a fine 
 structure, 61 ft. long, 32 wide, and 46 high, w^as preserved 
 and is incorporated, but much the worse for repanelling 
 and " restoration." Sir Francis Carew entertained Queen 
 Elizabeth at Beddington in 1599 and 1600, and here Sir 
 Walter Raleigh, whose wife was a Throckmorton, met 
 James I. in 1603. The gardens were remarkable. The
 
 BEXLEY. 23 
 
 new Orphanage includes 22 acres of the gi'ounds. It was 
 opened in 1866 by the Duke of Cambridge, and accom- 
 modates 200 children. 
 
 The Church is close to the manor house. It was built 
 in or about 1390, when Nicholas de Carru bequeathed 20/. 
 towards the building. It is Early Perp., consisting of 
 nave and chancel with aisles, a fine porch, and a AV. tower 
 with a peal of 10 bells. It has been severely " restored,'' 
 but retains much of its ancient character, except in the 
 carving, which has been rechiselled. There are 9 brasses, 
 including Nicholas Carew and wife, 1432, very fine. 
 There are many monuments, including a gTeat cenotaph 
 to bir Francis Carew, d. 1611, and a tablet to Thos. Green- 
 hill, 1634, with a punning epitaph, headed "Mors super 
 virides montes." 
 
 WaUington, a hamlet of Beddington, gives its name to 
 the hundred, but has only of late years become a separate 
 parish. It lies due W. and closely adjoining Carshalton. 
 An ancient chapel at WaUington was pulled down about 
 1791. The new church (Holy Trinity) was erected in 1867 
 at the cost of X. Bridges, Esq., the lord of the manor. 
 
 Carshalton (see), 'WaUington, Beddington, Waddon (see), 
 are all in one line on the same road W. of Croydon. 
 
 Bexley, Kent. (S.E.) 
 
 1dm. from. Charing Cross Stn. Pop. 6500. 
 
 Situated on the Cray, between Crayford and North 
 Cray, and about 3m. W. of Dartford. 
 
 History. — Belonged early to the See of Canterbury. 
 Surrendered by Cranmer to Henry A1II. Belonged to 
 Camden, the antiquary, temp. James I. He left it to 
 Oxford "Cniversity, where it forms the endowment of the 
 chair of Ancient History. 
 
 Church. — Much of the wall masonry is E.E. The 
 windows chiefly Dec. and Perp. Two brasses. Monu- 
 ment in X. aisle to Sir John Champneys, 1556. The 
 churchyard has a lich-gate, renovated. The living is a 
 vicarage in the gift of Earl Sydney. 
 
 An ancient house, Hall Place, which gave the sur- 
 name to the At Hall family (ext. 1366), is |m. from 
 station on the right, X.E. It was probably built before 
 1660. Lamb Abbey is 2m. W, The name is a cor- 
 ruption from Lamorbey. There is a district chui'ch at 
 Lamb Abbey, built by John Malcolm, Esq. Another
 
 24 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 ecclesiastical district is Berley Heath, or Bexley New- 
 town (Christ Church), a modern village, lam. N. of 
 Bexley Stn., by a pretty road. 
 
 Bickley. See Bromley. 
 
 Bishop's Hatfield. See Hatfield, (Excursion.) 
 
 Bishop's Wood. See Hampstead. 
 
 Blackheath. See Greenwich and Charlton. 
 
 Brentford, Middlesex. 
 
 10 111. from Paddington Stn. Pop. 11,000. 
 
 Sometimes called New Brentford, Old Brentford being 
 in Ealing. The name is derived from an ancient ford of 
 the river Brent, a tributary of the Thames which rises 
 near Hendon. The parish is small, containing only 200 
 acres, taken out of Hanwell {see) and Isleworth (s^e). 
 
 History.— In 1016 the English, under Edmund Iron- 
 sides, here defeated the Danes, " and there," says the 
 chronicler, "many of the English people were drowned, 
 from their own carelessness — they who went before the 
 forces and would take booty." In same year Edmund 
 here "went over the Thames" into Kent. It is some- 
 times said, as by Lysons, that he forded the Thames, but 
 this does not plainly appear by the chronicle. In 1642 
 the Parliamentary forces were defeated by Prince Kupert 
 in the streets, when John Lilburne, the Puritan, was taken 
 prisoner. In 1445 a Chapter of the Order of the Garter 
 was held at Brentford in the Lion Inn, when Henry TI. 
 created two knights. There was only one manor at 
 Brentford — Bordeston, or Boston — which belonged to the 
 Priory of St. Helen's, Bishopsgate. It is now the 
 property of Mr. Clitherow, of whose family, which 
 bought Boston in 1670, Lysons remarked in 1810 that it 
 is one of very few which have been resident on the same 
 lands in Middlesex for more than a century. 
 
 The Church (St. Lawrence) is a poor brick building at 
 the W. end of the street, near the bridge and station, 
 rebuilt in 1764. It contains a monument by Flaxman, to 
 Dr. Ewin, 1804. Home Tooke was curate or incumbent 
 from 1760 to 1773. Noy, Attorney - General, temp. 
 Chas. I., buried in chancel, 1634. There is an entry 
 in the churchwardens' accounts of the same year, 
 charging lis. for " conveying away witches."
 
 BEOMLEY. 
 
 25 
 
 The town of Brentford bears no good name for wliole- 
 someness or sweetness. It consists for the most part of 
 poor and filthy houses, yet claims the dignity of being the 
 county town of Middlesex. There is a market on Tues- 
 days. The present To^v^lhall was erected in 1850. 
 Here the parliamentary elections are held. There are 
 many manufactories in or adjoining the town. The Grand 
 Junction Waterworks, to which the tower and chimney 
 at the E. end of the to^Ti belong ; the end of the Grand 
 Junction Canal, which connects the Thames with the 
 hardware districts of Warwickshire, &c. ; the docks of the 
 Great Western Eailway, aud several other " great '' and 
 *' grand" works make Brentford remarkable, if not 
 pleasant. 
 
 There are, however, pretty walks in the neighbour- 
 hood, as to OsterJeij (see), and*^ past Boston manor house 
 to Little Ealing and Ealing Green, partly across fields. 
 Cross the loop-line of the S. W.E. near the station, and walk 
 N.W., Boston is conspicuous on the left near the top of 
 the slope. Take the road to the E. from the front of the 
 House, and Little Ealing Park is on the right. Passing 
 the houses, turn to the left and take a field path to 
 Ealing {see). 
 
 Brentford is celebrated in English literature. As the 
 chief town of 3Iiddlesex it is frequently used in satire as 
 the capital of England. So Thackeray celebrates the 
 virtues of Gorgeous I Y., King of Brentford. The "two 
 Kings of Brentford on one throne " are mentioned by 
 Cowper. In the " Piehearsal "' they are noticed more at 
 length. Ben Jonson calls it " Brainford." Falstaff is 
 made by Shakespeare to disguise himself as a Fat 
 Woman of Brentford. Thomson writes of " Brentford 
 town, a town of mud;" and Gay notices its "dirty 
 streets." Both Dr. Johnson and Goldsmith make similar 
 allusions, and after the lapse of a century the same 
 complaints are made, no longer indeed by poets, but 
 by sanitary inspectors. 
 
 Bromley, Kent. 
 
 dim. from Holhorn Viaduct or Charing Cross Stns. 
 Fop. 10,600. 
 Bromley is 2m. due E. from Beckenham, by a pleasant 
 road. It is about 3m. S.E. from Lewisham, through 
 Southend. 
 History. — Bromley belonged to the See of Eochester
 
 26 
 
 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 from time immemorial, having, according to a tradition 
 constantly repeated, but evidently nntrue, been granted 
 to the Bishop by Ethelbert in the 8th century. It was 
 really bought from King Edgar in 967 by Bp. Alfstan. 
 In our own day the Eccl. Commissioners sold it. It had 
 been the residence of successive bishops. The present 
 house was built in 1777, on the site of the ancient manor 
 house or " palace." There is a view of the older house in 
 Hasted's * Kent.' Im. N.E. of the town, at Sundridge, 
 remarkable fossils of the oldest tertiary beds are found. 
 At the Palace, Bp. Atterbury resided when he was 
 visited by Pope and Swift. Here he formed the plots 
 which subsequently led to his exile. His daughter-in- 
 law was afterwards a pensioner at the College. (.See 
 helow.) 
 
 The Chuech (SS. Peter and Paul) is much altered and 
 repaired, but was originally of the Perp. period. Ad- 
 ditions were made in 1792 and 1830. It has lately been 
 improved or " restored." The E. window is by Wille- 
 ment. Among the monuments observe the gravestone of 
 Elizabeth, wife of Samuel Johnson, the lexicographer, 
 d. 1753. The epitaph was written by Dr. Johnson 
 shortly before his death. (Johnson himself was buried in 
 Westminster Abbey.) Tablets to Dr. Hawkesworth, d. 
 1773, Dr. Johnson's friend; Bp. Zachary Pearce, d. 1774; 
 Gifibrd, the biographer of Pitt ; Elizabeth Monk, aged 
 101, d. 1753 ; and in the churchyard, near vestry door, 
 Martine French and " four of his wives." The registers 
 begin : bap. 1558, bur, 1578, mar. 1575. The living is a 
 vicarage, worth 300Z. a year, in the gift of the Bishop of 
 Worcester. 
 
 The College, situated at the N. end of the High Street, 
 was founded in 1666 by Bishop Warner, for 20 widows of 
 clergymen ; it has been enlarged at different times, and 
 now accommodates 40 widows, each with a pension of 
 38/., and, in addition, 5 maiden ladies, the daughters of 
 clergymen, each of whom has 44/. The buildings are red 
 brick, of the 17th century, except the chapel, which was 
 built in 1865. 
 
 BicMey is a hamlet of Bromley, Igm. E. on the way to 
 Chislehurst. There is a station 12m. from Victoria. 
 The park is richly wooded, and from being situated be- 
 tween two railway stations, the village is very accessible, 
 and a favourite locality for villas. The church was built
 
 CARSHALTON. 
 
 27 
 
 in 1865 : the lofty tower and spire are conspicuous from 
 the Chislehurst Stn. Across the road on the hill close to 
 Chislehurst Common is a quaint gatehouse constructed 
 by the owner of Bickley JHall, as a water tower for the 
 supply of the estate. 
 
 Buckhurst Hill. See Chigwell. 
 
 Buslie/ Park. See Hampton CorRx. 
 
 Caen Wood. See Hampstead. 
 
 Canons. See Whitchukch. 
 
 Carshalton, Surrey. 
 
 iZm.from Victoria Stn. Fop 3668. 
 
 A pleasant walk of about IJm. W. from Beddington, 
 or the same distance E. of Sutton. (See both.) 
 
 History. — The name may be translated into " the old 
 town at the cross." In D.S. it is called Aulton. Before 
 the Conquest there were five manors in Carshalton, each 
 of which was held of the Confessor by a freeman. They 
 were afterwards united into one manor, which was held 
 by Geoffrey de Mandeville, but the record of Domesday 
 suggests that he was never lawfully seised of it. (Ly.^'ons.) 
 It passed through many families until the reign of Eliza- 
 beth, when it was divided. It has now as many owners 
 as in the Confessors time — perhaj^s twice as many. 
 
 The Church (All SS.), stands on rising gi'ound in the 
 centre of the village. There was a church here in 1086 : 
 but the oldest part now remaining is E.E. Part of the 
 nave was built temp. AVilliam III. Additions were made 
 in 1863. There are 3 brasses. See canopy of Thomas 
 Elljmbridge, d. 1497 (figure gone) ; also, Xich. Gaynes- 
 ford, wife and children, made in his lifetime, with blank 
 date, on an altar tomb of Pm-beck, X. of chancel. Lady G. 
 was a Sydney, and was at coronation of Henry VII. 
 See curious epitaph on Wm. Quelch, 1654, on tablet of 
 S. wall; effigy of Sir AVm. Scawen, 1722; mon. to Sir 
 Jn. Eellowes, 1724 : and others. Registers begin 1538. 
 The living is a rectory in private gift. 
 
 The village is pleasantly situated by the river Wandle, 
 which forms a lake of 2 acres in the centre, the borders 
 planted with trees. The air is so mild that ice is said
 
 28 
 
 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 never to form on the lake. A spring, arched, by the 
 churchyard, is called Anne Bullen's well. There are many 
 orchards and market g:ardens in the neighbourhood — 
 also paper and other mills. Lavender is grown in large 
 quantities, and the perfume may be detected in passing 
 during the summer. Carshalton Park lies S. of church. 
 The wall, of brick, is 2m. in circuit. >S'ee the wrought- 
 iron gates. The place was formerly know^n as " Mas- 
 call's," and as " Scawen's." The designs for a house here, 
 by Leoni, were never employed. Carshalton House (a 
 boys' school) is on the site of a house built by Dr. Rad- 
 cliffe, the founder of the Radcliffe Library, &c., at Oxford. 
 He was here ill of gout at the death of Queen Anne, and 
 was much censm^ed by the populace for not attending 
 her : but he died himself within a few months. Sir John 
 Fellowes, a South Sea director, built the present house, 
 in which Lord Chancellor Hardwick afterwards lived. 
 
 Chadwell Heath, Essex. See Dagenham. 
 
 Charlton, Kent. (S.E.) 
 
 dm. from Charing Cross Stn. Pop. 7699. 
 
 Situated about Ifm. E. from Greenwich, and Im. W. 
 from Woolwich, Lower Charlton is part of Woolwich. 
 New Charlton is to the N., nearer the river. Old Charlton 
 is by the church and house. Charlton has lost its rural 
 character of late years. 
 
 History. — Granted by William I. to Odo, Bishop of 
 Bayeux. Belonged to the Priory and Abbey of Ber- 
 mondsey from 1093 to the dissolution. Granted to 
 John, Earl of Mar, who in 1606 sold it. After passing 
 through several hands, it was bequeathed by Rev. John 
 Maryon to Lady Wilson, in whose family it remains. 
 Kidbrook belonged to the Priory of St. Mary Overy 
 (St. Saviour's, Southwark), and at the dissolution came 
 to the Crown. It was granted with Charlton to Lord 
 Mar, and also sold. It was in possession of Wm. Lord 
 Harvey, of Kidbrook, so created 1628. It afterwards 
 belonged to the Duke of Montagu, to James Craggs, 
 Postmaster-General (who poisoned himself in 1721, owing 
 to the bursting of the South Sea bubble), and to his son, 
 Secretary Craggs, the friend of Pope, to w^hose descend- 
 ant, in the female line, the Earl of St. Germans, it lately 
 belonged. King John is said by a local story to have granted
 
 CHARLTON. 29 
 
 a charter for tbe once famous " Horn Fair," abolished in 
 1768, but only finally suppressed in 1872. 
 
 The Church (St. Luke's) built 1630-40. Handsome 
 example in red brick of the style of that day. Remark- 
 able as one of the first Protestant churches built in Eng- 
 land — St. PauVs, Covent Garden, being usually counted 
 the first. There are many monuments : one by X. Stone, 
 to Sir Adam Xewton, d. 1629 ; statues of Richards, Sur- 
 veyor-General, d. 1721, and of Sir Thomas Hislop, d. 
 1831, by Westmacott : tablet to Spencer PerccTal, Prime 
 Minister, shot 1812. In churchyard, tombstones ofCraggs, 
 1721, and Ed. Drummond, murdered in mistake for vSir 
 Robert Peel, 1813. The register commences in 1653. 
 There are two district churches — St. Thomas, New 
 Charlton, and St. Paul Old Charlton ; and a new church 
 has also been built at Ividbrook. 
 
 Charlton House, close to the church, the seat of Sir J. 
 Maryon Wilson, Bt., is not shown to the public. It is a 
 good example of the picturesque style of the Stuart 
 period. It was probably built for Sir A. Xewton, in 
 1607-12, by Inigo Jones, but of this there is no distinct 
 proof. It is of red brick, with stone dressings. The 
 plan is in the shape of the letter E. The interior has a 
 great hall, a chapel, a state dining room, saloon, and 
 gallery, all elaborately ornamented, and some with fine 
 ceilings. The staircase, of chesnut, is very picturesque. 
 There are some good family portraits. The grounds are 
 extensive, and afford fine views of the City, the river, 
 and the country round ; but the villas and streets of 
 London are beginning to gather round it and shut it in. 
 
 Charlton has several old houses still standing, but is 
 being gradually transformed into a regular suburb. See 
 near railway station the great chalk pits, abounding in 
 fossils. 
 
 Part of P)lackheath is in the parish, including the site 
 of Morden College, an almshouse for decayed merchants, 
 founded in 1702 by Sir John 3Iorden ; but the house was 
 built about 1695. It contains forty pensioners. The 
 building, by Stronge, is picturesque, of red brick, with 
 stone dressings, a good example of the so-called " Queen 
 Anne " style. A pathway, entered by a turnstile, leads 
 from the S.E. corner of Blackheath past the College to 
 Ividbrook Church.
 
 30 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 Chigwell, Essex. 
 
 IS^m. from Liverpool St. Stn. Fop. 4463, 
 A quiet village, about Im. W. of Chigwell Eow, 
 between Epping Forest and what was formerly Hainault 
 Forest. The forest has disappeared of late years, but the 
 jorivate seats in the neighbourhood are well wooded, and 
 the aspect of the country is very pleasing. 
 
 History. — The manor, as the name, King Well or 
 King Weald, D.S. Cinf/heiveUa, denotes, was ancient royal 
 property. It was granted away by the Conqueror, and 
 subdivided, but the Duke of Clarence and his brother 
 Edward IV. had a house in the parish. 
 
 The Church (St. Mary's) is picturesque, but not very 
 interesting. There is however a Norman doorway. The 
 windows are chiefly Perp. The large, but late, brass of 
 Samuel Harsnett, Abp. of York, d. 1631, is the principal 
 monument. It contains the latest examples of the epis- 
 copal cope, alb, dalmatic, and stole. The register begins 
 in 1555. The living is a rectory, in the gift of the pre- 
 bendary of St. Pancras. 
 
 The Grammar School was founded by Abp. Harsnett, 
 who directed that the master should be no "puffer of 
 tobacco," and not to use '' conceited modern writers." 
 W. Penn was educated here. 
 
 A fragment of the forest remains at Crabtree Wood, on 
 the E. of Chigwell Eow, about Im. beyond the village. 
 From Grange Hill about the same distance W. are fine 
 views, reaching across the country to the Thames, to the 
 Kent hills, and the Surrey downs. A new church is on 
 ground recently cleared, near Barking side and Aid- 
 borough Hatch (see). Opposite is the "Maypole" Inn, 
 commemorated by Dickens in ' Parnaby Eudge.' 
 
 Buchlntrd Ilillis on the N.W. side of the parish. Here is 
 the railway station and church (St. .lohn's). The hill is 
 covered with villas, but affords good views, extending E. 
 over what was once the forest. From here the stag was 
 started at the Epping Hunt. At the " Eoebuck" Inn are 
 large pleasure grounds. Nightingales are said to abound 
 in the district. 
 
 CMngford, Essex. 
 
 ^hm.from Liverpool St. Stn. Pop. 5650. 
 A pretty scattered village, on high gTound, overlooking 
 the valley of the Lea. It is the best place from which to 
 visit the remaining beauties of Epping Forest. An obelisk,
 
 CHISLEHURST. 31 
 
 erected by the Ordnance Survey, on high ground X.E. 
 from the church, is maintained at the desire of the autho- 
 rities of Greenwich Observatory. It is due north along the 
 meridian line, and is occasionally used for the verification 
 of astronomical observations. 
 
 The Church (St. Peter and St. Paul's) is only used for 
 funerals, a new church having been erected at Chingford 
 Green. The exterior of the old church is very pic- 
 turesque : it is on the brow of the hill overlooking the Lea, 
 and is overgro^\Ti with ivy. It contains little of interest. 
 The register only dates from 1715. The living is a rectory 
 in private patronage. 
 
 Across the Green from the new church N.E. is Queen 
 Elizabeth's Lodge, where manor courts used to be held. 
 It is a pictm-esque, half-timbered house, containing some 
 good rooms, \\ith old oak and tapestry, and may be seen 
 on application. About 2ra. N.E. by a forest road is High 
 Beech Green., a great deal of the land about which is 
 still unenclosed and very pleasant. The whole neigh- 
 bourhood is a favourite resort of pleasure parties, and 
 well repays a visit ; Tennyson lived at Beech Hill 
 House, since pulled down, when he wrote ' The Talking 
 Oak' and 'Locksley Hall.' 
 
 Chisleliurst, Kent. 
 
 lOJ m.fvom Charing Cross Stn. Pop. 3333. 
 
 Situated about Im. E. from the station over the hill past 
 Camden Place. 
 
 History. — Is not described in D.S. Was probably 
 part of Hartford Manor. Belonged to Sir Francis Walsing- 
 ham. under a lease from Queen Elizabeth to his father : 
 granted away by James I. : is now the property of Earl 
 Sydney. 
 
 The Church (St. Xicholas) is Perp., and has some fine 
 monuments, including those of the Walsinghams. Queen 
 Elizabeth's Minister, Sir Francis W., was buried here. The 
 register dates from 1558. The living is a rectory in the 
 gift of the Bp. of Rochester, and worth, net, 100/, a year. 
 The churchyard is in nice order and well shaded with trees. 
 
 There is a district church (Christ Church) near the 
 station, consecrated 1S72. 
 
 Sir Nicholas Bacon, father of Lord Bacon, w^as born in 
 the manor house, a large and picturesque, but restored 
 mansion near the church. 
 
 At Camden Place d. 1873 Louis Xapoleon Bonaparte,
 
 32 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 kno's\'n in history as Xapoleon III. The house is visible 
 on the left from the Common, near the church. The 
 window with a balcony on the first floor, next the pro- 
 jecting wing, is that of the room in which the ex-Emperor 
 died. It may be seen from a footpath past the garden 
 front. The entrance is opposite the first cluster of houses 
 after leaving the station. Camden Place was built by the 
 celebiuted antiquary, "W. Camden, who died here in 1^)23, 
 and was buried in Westminster Abbey. Chas. Pratt, 
 Lord Chief Justice, took his title from the Place. Mr, 
 and Mrs. Bonar, who lived here in Lysons' time, were 
 murdered in their bedroom in 1813 by the footman, who 
 was hanged the same year. 
 
 N^apoleon III. was buried in the E. C. Chapel of St. Mary, 
 situated in a lane which opens on the Common opposite 
 the church. The chapel is open for services on Sundays. On 
 week days visitors are admitted by order between 3 and 
 5 P.M. Orders to be obtained by letter only to Eev. J. 
 Goddard, Chislehurst. 
 
 Frognall, the seat of Earl Sydney, is about Im. X.E. 
 
 The chalk pits, locally called Dane's hohs, Sire of interest 
 to the geologist. One was cut through on the railway, 
 near the station. 
 
 Chiswick, Middlesex. (W.) 
 
 S^m.from Ludgate Hill or WaterJoo Stns. Pop. 8508. 
 
 Situated on the W. side of a northern reach of the 
 Thames, opposite Barnes. Includes Turnham Green. By 
 road from London, through Hammersmith and Tmnham 
 Green, the visitor may turn to the left from the gi-een, and 
 will have the Horticultural Society's Gardens on his right, 
 and the Duke of Devonshire's villa facing him at the end 
 of the road which was planted with limes by the late Duke, 
 
 The Church (St. ]Sicholas) is ancient, but much altered 
 and uninteresting except for the monuments, many of 
 which are quaint and curious. Hee Sir T. Chaloner's, d. 
 1615. Two daughters of Oliver Cromwell, Lady Faucon- 
 berg and Mrs. Ptich, were buried in the church, but without 
 monuments ; as well as Barbara, Duchess of Cleveland, d. 
 1709. In the churchyard is a large tomb marking the 
 gi-ave of Hogarth, the painter, d. 1764, with an epitaph 
 bv David Garrick. Other tombs are those of Louther- 
 bourg, E.A., d. 1812 ; Sharp, engraver, d. 1824 ; and 
 Fittler, A.R.A., d. 1835. Also a cenotaph by Marochctti
 
 THE GRAYS. 33 
 
 to Ugo Foscolo, d. 1827, an Italian poet, whose remains 
 have been transferred to Florence. The living is a vicar- 
 age in the gift of the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's. The 
 register commences in 1678. 
 
 The Horticultural Gardens are worth a visit. Orders 
 may be obtained from Fellows, but admission is easily 
 obtained. Here Sir J. Paxton worked at 12s. a week. 
 
 Chiswick House was built by the architect Earl of 
 Burlington, who also built Burlington House, Piccadilly, 
 now defaced. It was designed after a villa by Palladio at 
 Ticenza, and is inconveniently planned for an English 
 residence. It was rented for a time by the Prince of Wales 
 for his children, but belongs to the Duke of Devonshire, 
 and was celebrated in the time of the late Duke for the 
 open-air entertainments in the fine gardens. Many of the 
 statues are antique. The rustic gate was designed by Inigo 
 Jones for Beaufort House, Chelsea. Charles James Fox 
 died here in 1806, and George Canning in 1827, both in 
 the same chamber, which opens out of the Italian saloon. 
 
 Hogarth's house is on the S. side of Hogarth Lane, 
 near the church. It was long in poor condition and let in 
 tenements, but has lately been repaired. The Chiswick 
 Press occupied an old house belonging to the masters of 
 Westminster School, but lately pulled down. 
 
 Chiswick Eyot is the first island in the Thames above 
 London. It is covered with osiers, which generally con- 
 ceal a swan's nest. 
 
 Colney Hatch, Middlesex. See Baenet Friern. 
 
 Combe "Wood. See Kingston. 
 
 Grays, The, Kent. 
 
 Four parishes situated on the Cray river, an afiSuent of 
 the Darenth. They are here placed in their order as the 
 course of the river is followed towards the N. 
 
 St. Mary Cray, 2m. from Orpington, ISim.from, EoTborn 
 Viaduct or Charing Cross Stn. Pop. 1681. Just ivitlwut 
 the Vim. circle. 
 
 A busy but not very picturesque village, which con- 
 tains Messrs. Joynson's paper mill, said to be the largest 
 in the kingdom. The Orpington Ely. Stn. commands a 
 good viesv along the valley of the Cray, St. Mary being
 
 34 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 the next village beyond Orpington towards the N., and 
 conspicuous from the size of the mill. Close to it is the 
 church (St. Mary's), late Dec. and Perp., restored. Four 
 brasses, one of them to Richard Greenword, d. 1773, the 
 latest known before the modern revival. The living is a 
 vicarage in the gift of the Abp., and worth 300^. a year. 
 
 St. PauVs Crmjy about \m.from St. Mary Cray Stn. Pop. 
 625. Just upon the 12m. boundary. 
 Beautifully situated in a narrow part of the valley. 
 There are few houses, much scattered, and a large mill. 
 The church (St. Paul's) is pretty, and the view from the 
 churchyard is worth seeing. The lich-gate is modern. 
 There are Eoman tiles in the wall. Church chiefly Perp., 
 but much altered in late years, and the old carving 
 rechiselled. See the lock, with inscription, to tower 
 door. Living : a rectory, worth 500/. a year, in the gift 
 of Earl Sydney. 
 
 Foot's Cray, about Im. farther N., stands at the cross 
 where the road from Eltham to Maidstone meets that 
 from Orpington. A charming walk of less than 4m. from 
 Eltham, Ijm. S.E, of Sidcup Stn. The name is derived 
 from Grodwin Fot, who held the manor from Edward 
 the Confessor. The church (All Saints') was very pic- 
 turesque, but was restored in 1864 ; it has a low spire 
 rising from a wooden tower, and is prettily situated near 
 the river, among trees. See in churchyard iron monu- 
 ment of Martin Manning, d. 1665. Foot's Cray Place, 
 a palladian villa, was the seat of Lord Bexley, President 
 of the Bible Society, who d. here, 1851. The living is a 
 rectory, worth 290/. a year, in the gift of the Lord Chan- 
 cellor. The population is 680. Half mile farther N. 
 along the valley from the church is the village of 
 
 North Cray. Pop., luith Ruxley, 562. 
 
 Eokesley, or Ptuxley, a parish which gives its name to 
 the Hundred, was united to N. Cray in 1557, on account 
 of the decayed state of the church. N. Cray Church seems 
 to have been little better until it was rebuilt in 1851. It 
 stands E. of the river on the slope. Close to it is N. 
 Cray Place, celebrated as the residence of Lord Castle- 
 reagh, Marq. of Londonderry, who here committed 
 suicide, 1822. The house is long and low, and rather 
 pretty. Piuxley Church stands close to a farmhouse, about
 
 CROYDON. do 
 
 2m. E. of Foot's Cray, and Im. S. of Xorth Cray. It is 
 used as a barn. 
 
 Joyden's Wood is in X. Cray parish, and is still ex- 
 tensive. In it are several Dane's EoUs. Farther N. 
 along the valley of the Cray are Bexley (see) and 
 Crajrford, Kent. (S.E.) 
 
 lojm.from Charing Cross Stn. Pop. 3887. 
 
 Here the AVatling Street crossed the river, and in 
 defending the ford the Britons were defeated in 457 by 
 Hengist and ^sc, his son, who slew 4000 ' men. This 
 victory completed the English conquest of Kent. The 
 manor has been held by the Abp. of Canterbury fi'om 
 time immemorial. ]\Iay"s Place belonged to Sir Clou- 
 desley Shovel, drowned at sea 1707. The church (St. 
 Paulinus) is large, Perp. in style, but restored, and a 
 decorated E. window inserted. See monument of W. 
 Draper, d. 1650, and other monuments. The living is a 
 rectory, in private gift, and worth, per annum, 695/. gross. 
 The village is large. The river is navigable within a 
 mile. There are several factories, chiefly cotton print- 
 works. 
 
 About l^m. below (N.E.) Crayford the river falls into 
 the Darenth, which is itself discharged into the Thames 
 at Dartford Marsh, opposite Purfleet Powder Magazine, 
 to which there is a ferry. 
 
 Crohani, Surrey. See Croydon. 
 Croydon, Surrey. 
 
 lOrn.from Victoria and London Bridge Stns. Fop. 58,117. 
 SiSTORY. — Croydon (Croindene, D.S.) was given by 
 William I. to Abp. Lanfranc, and still belongs to the 
 Abp. of Canterbury. It is the place of election for 
 members for East Surrey, and has increased enormously 
 of late years, containing now nine churches, each with an 
 ecclesiastical district, and no fewer than eight railway 
 stations. The parish is 36m. in circuit, and contains 
 about 10,000 acres. The soil is so various that Lysons 
 was informed that " chalk, gravel, sand, clay, and peat 
 may be found in the same field." It has always been a 
 busy place, and in old authors is frequently noticed for 
 its charcoal, which, before " sea coal*' came into use, was 
 here made for the London market. Much of the old town 
 has disappeared, and even the river Wandle, to which 
 
 D 2
 
 36 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 the town owed its trade, now flows undergi'oimd. The 
 inundations, for which the place was noted, have ceased, 
 and the "rising of the Ponrne water" is no longer a 
 terror to the inhabitants. The river rose in the chalk, S. 
 of the town, and \vas subject to sudden overflows. A 
 system of drain pipes now diverts it to the W., and the 
 low-lying part of the town is left dry. The Archbishops 
 had a "Palace" at Croydon until 1780. It was always 
 accounted unwholesome, and was latterly deserted. The 
 last who made it a residence was Archbishop Herring, 
 d. 1757. The manor house of Addington, 3im. S.E., is 
 now the Primate's country seat. At Croydon, Archbishop 
 Parker received Queen Elizabeth, when the Queen made 
 her famous speech to Mrs. Parker. In IGOO Archbishop 
 Whitgift also entertained the Queen. Croydon was the 
 first place to make use of the provisions of the Health of 
 Towns Act, and has profited by a new reputation for 
 healthiness, contrasting favourably with its old fame. 
 
 The Church. — The old church (St. John the Baptist) 
 stood W. of the High Street, in the old part of the towm. 
 The site was really an island until the recent drainage. 
 The church was burnt in 1867, and the greater number of 
 monuments destroyed. The new church (by Sir G. Scott) 
 is on the same plan as the old one, and the tow^er has 
 been mainly preserved. Observe Archbishop Sheldon's 
 monument, d. 1677, by two obscure English artists, 
 "Latham, the city architect, and Bonne." The face 
 was destroyed. In a vault uncler the organ are fragments 
 of the tombs of Archbishops Grindal and Whitgift. *S'ee 
 also tombstone of J. S. Copley, E.A., father of Lord 
 Lyndhurst. Also lectern, which is ancient. The living 
 is a vicarage, nominally worth 790/. a year ; patron, the 
 Archbishop. 
 
 Near the church stood the manor house, better known 
 as the Palace of the Archbishops. The chapel (built 
 lG.^3-63), now a school, is on the N. side. The hall 
 (1443-52) is divided by floors into stories, and the rafters 
 carved with shields may be seen from the upper one. It 
 is now the drying house of a bleacher. Observe, entrance 
 porch. The guard chamber is 50 ft. by 22 ft., but is also 
 divided. The gateway near the church still serves as an 
 entrance to the premises. 
 
 Whitgift's Hosijital is in a street leading S.E. towards 
 Combe Lane from the High Street ; it is a red brick 
 building, of good, but plain, Elizabethan type. The
 
 DAGENHAM. 37 
 
 quadi'angle is well turfed, and the chapel at S.E. angle 
 contains the Archbishop's portrait, and that of his 
 daughter (?), as well as a curious allegory of Death, in 
 outline. The Archbishop's bequest supports also a 
 grammar school and a middle-class school, as well as 22 
 brothers and 16 sisters. There are several other alms- 
 houses in Croydon, none of them remarkable. 
 
 There are pretty walks in the neighbom-hood. (See 
 Addingtoa, Beidiivjton^ and WaUhigtoa, Carshalton, &c.) 
 
 Addiscombe (Adge-combe) stands on the E. side, about 
 im. from East Croydon Stn. It was a military college of 
 the East India Company, and subsequently a Eoyal 
 College, but was closed and the house sold in 1862. The 
 estate is now covered with villas. It has a station 
 (Clyde Eoad, Xorth Kent Eailway). 
 
 Waddan, on the river Wandle, Im. W. of Croydon 
 High Street (Station, Epsom and Croydon Eailway). 
 The walk past Waddon Mill to Beddington (see) is still 
 pretty. AVaddon Court is S. of Mill. 
 
 Croham, Im. S.E. from South Croydon Station, is in 
 the parish, being part of the estate of \Vhitgift's Hospital. 
 The Burst abounds in pretty views of wood and vale. 
 
 Duppa's Hill is on the W. side of the to^Ti, and is 
 much celebrated by Mr. Euskin (see 'Fors Clavigera,' 
 passim) for its air and scenery. 
 
 Cuddington, Surrey. 
 
 Worcester Park Stn. 12m from Waterloo Stn. Pop>. 375. 
 
 Of this parish, which was all taken into Xonsuch Park 
 by Henry YIIL, there is nothing to record. There is no 
 church, and the only houses are those which have been 
 recently built under the name of Worcester Park. The 
 palace of Nonsuch has disappeared, but a modern house 
 built at some distance from its site, IJm. S.E. from 
 station, j^reserves the name. There are pleasant paths 
 through the fields from Cheam to Ewell, and some fine 
 timber is to be seen. 
 
 Dagenham, Essex. 
 
 2>rii. S.from Bomford Stn., Vl^m. from Liverpool St. 
 
 Pop. 2708. 
 
 The village stands on the W. slope of a hill about 2m. 
 
 in a straight line from the Thames, but much farther 
 
 by the winding roads. The Church is uninteresting, 
 
 but contains a good brass to Sii' T. Urswyk, a baron of
 
 38 EOrXD ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 the Exchequer during the reign of Henry TI., The living 
 is a vicarage in private patronage, and worth 864Z. a 
 year, nominally. 
 
 Due S. from Dagenham, but more easily reached from 
 Eainham Stn. G.E.E., l^m. E., is Dagenham Breach, a 
 lake covering about 60 acres, formed in 1376 and subse- 
 quent years by inundations, but principally after a storm 
 in 1707, when 1000 acres were covered with water. Capt. 
 Peri'y succeeded in draining all but the portion now under 
 the lake after five years' exertions. The " Breach " is 
 about to be made into a dock, a company having been 
 formed for the purpose. It is said that the Ministerial 
 Fish Dinner, now held at Greenwich, began in an annual 
 visit to Dagenham Breach, by the commissioners for the 
 drainage. A great portion of the parish is marshland, and 
 uninviting to the tourist, but at the N. end are one or two 
 breezy hills, including Becontree Heath, 2m., and 
 
 Chadii'ell Heath, Stn. G.E.E., 10m. from Liverpool St., 
 where are some rows of second-rate villas, but good views 
 from the hills on the N.W. 
 
 Deptford, Kent. (S.E.) 
 
 ^m.from Charing Cross Stn. Pop. 60,188. 
 History. — Deptford (the deep ford over the Eavens- 
 bourne, which here falls into the Thames) is mentioned 
 by Chaucer (Prol. ' Reeves Tale'). Of little importance 
 till temp, Henry YIII.,whomadea dockyard at the creek. 
 Men of war were built at Deptford till 1869, the last being 
 the Druid, screw corvette. The Eoyal Victualling Yard 
 with its vast storehouses is stiU here, though now closed, 
 and the range of buildings, chiefly overgrown sheds, are 
 conspicuous from the river. At Deptford, Queen Elizabeth 
 knighted Sir F. Drake, 1581. There are many references 
 to it in Pepys' ' Diary.' Sayes Court was the manor 
 house, and came to the Evelyns by marriage viith the 
 Brownes, 1647. It w^as embellished and planted by John 
 Evelyn, the diarist and author of ' Forest Trees.' It M-as 
 rented by Admiral Benbow, and afterwards by Czar Peter 
 (the Great) of Eussia, by whom the gardens were wantonly 
 destroyed. Peter here studied shipbuilding, and stayed 
 about three months at Sayes. The house was pulled down 
 in 1728, and a workhouse built on site. The gardens are 
 being laid out anew by the present Mr. Evelyn as a recrea- 
 tion ground for the neighbourhood, which is extremely
 
 DULWICH. 39 
 
 poor. A museum, library, &c., are included. The entrance 
 is in Princes Street, Evelyn Street. 
 
 There are two churches. St. Nicholas, of which the 
 tower only is ancient, contains some curious monuments, 
 chiefly of people connected with the dockyard. St. Paul's, 
 built 1730, is near the railway station, a fine stone 
 building, fitted with old oak. There are some fine monu- 
 ments. The jDarsonage was built by Tanbrugh. There are 
 several other churches, recently built. The register of 
 St. Nicholas begins in 1563. 
 
 Xe^o Cross, close to Deptford, is the site of the Pioyal 
 Naval School. 
 
 Hatcham, the church (St. James's) of which has been 
 made remarkable by the proceedings of some ritualists, 
 is a little AY. of New Cross, at the junction of the Old 
 Kent Eoad and Queen's Koad, Peckham. 
 
 Dulwich, Surrey. (S.E.) 
 
 bm.from Holborn Viaduct Stn. Pop. 4041. 
 
 HiSTOKY. — Dulwich is a manor of Camberwell parish, 
 first mentioned in 1127 when Henry I. gave it to Ber- 
 mondsey Abbey. It was bought in 1606 by Ed\vard 
 AUeyne, an actor and Master of the King's Bears, who 
 retired from the stage in 1612, and established the College 
 of God's Gift, to consist of an almshouse and a school, 
 and to be governed by one of the founder's family, or at 
 least by some person bearing his name, however spelt. 
 He endowed his foundation with this manor and with house 
 property in London, and the trust having become very 
 valuable, the endowments were re-applied by Act of 
 Parliament in 1857, after an enormous amount of contro- 
 versy, which still, indeed, continues. A magnificent, or 
 to speak more truly, a conspicuous building has been 
 erected as a school, about im. S. of the Old College, and 
 was formally opened by the Prince of Wales in 1870. 
 Although not ornamental, the building is highly orna- 
 mented, and bears a long series of terra-cotta heads of 
 poets, philosophers, &c. of all ages and countries. There 
 is accommodation for about 700 boys. The building, 
 which was designed by Mr. BaiTy, cost 1C0,000/. 
 
 The Old College is a quaint building, surrounding three 
 sides of a garden, and flanked by a long wooden gallery 
 of pictures now being rebuilt (1877). The chapel is un- 
 interesting, but is about to be improved. See tomb of
 
 40 EOUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 Alleyne, d. 1626. The gallery contains a large collection 
 of fine pictures, collected by a M. Desenfans for King 
 Stanislaus of Poland. The fall of that kingdom caused 
 the pictures to remain in their collector's hands, and he 
 bequeathed them to a French refugee in England, Sir F. 
 Burgeois, who in 1811 left them to Dulwich College; 
 Burgeois, with M. and Mme. Desenfans, are buried in 
 a mausoleum attached to the gallery. The following 
 pictures are the examples most worthy of attention. 
 The numbers are those on the frames : — 
 
 Italian iSchool. — 306 and 307, Saints, attributed to 
 Raphael, and certainly of his school ; 133, A young man, 
 painter unknown, probably Beltrafflo ; 217, St. Yeronica ; 
 and 337, Mater Dolorosa, 0. Dolce; 333, A cardinal bless- 
 ing a priest, P. Veronese ; 339, Martyrdom of St. Sebas- 
 tian, Gitido ; 271, Soldiers playing, ti. Rosa. 
 
 Spanish l^chool. — 309, Philip IV., and 194, The same, as 
 a boy, Velasquez ; 248, Flower girl ; 283 and 286, Spanish 
 beggars ; 347, Assumption of the Yirgin, all by Murilh. 
 
 French School. — 197 and 210, Fete and Bal Champetre, 
 Watteau; 252, Massacre of Innocents, Le Brun ; 2bl and 
 276, Landscapes, 0. Poussin ; 260, Landscape ; 305, 
 Triumph of David ; 336, Assumption of the Yirgin, and 
 352, Children, all by N. Poussin. 
 
 Dutch and Flemish Schools. — The gallery is particularly 
 rich in pictures of these schools, almost all good ; we can 
 only notice the finest. 9, 141, 163, 169, 239, Landscapes, 
 by Cuyp; 131, Landscape, Hohhema; 63,64, 125, 144, 173, 
 Landscapes, some with figure subjects, Wouvermans ; 85 
 and 106, small, highly finished figures, ascribed to G. Dow ; 
 107, Cottage interior, Ostade ; 139, and five following, 
 small studies, by Teniers ; 185, Chaff-cutter, Ternei's ; 175, 
 Landscape ; 182, Sketch; 355, Old Woman, Rubens; 179, 
 Jacob's Dream ; 206, A Servant-maid, Rembrandt, or his 
 school ; 241, Mill, Ruysdael ; 214, Earl of Pembroke, 
 Vandyck. 
 
 English School. — 1, Mrs. Sheridan and Mrs. Tickle, 
 Gainsborough ; 143, Mother and Sick Child, Reynolds. By 
 the same master are 285, Samuel; 254, Death of Card. 
 Beaufort ; and 340, Mrs. Siddons, as the Tragic Muse. 
 
 The hill S. of Duhvich was covered with wood until 
 lately ; it is now laid out in roads for villas. The 
 village by the Old College retains something of its rural 
 look.
 
 EAST HAM. 41 
 
 A pleasant walk may be taken by Camberwell Church, 
 over the hill to Diilwich, and thence up Lordship Lane, 
 or another road, to the Crystal Palace. 
 
 Ealing", Middlesex. (W.) 
 
 bhn.from Po.ddington. Pop. 9959. 
 
 History. — Xot mentioned in D.S., but has always 
 formed portion of the endowments of the See of London. 
 There are three sub-manors, one being Gunnersbury. 
 At Castle-bear Hill lived Eliott, Lord Heathfield, the 
 defender of Gibraltar, 1783. At Ealing School were 
 educated the Lawrences, Sir Henry and Lord, and 
 several other persons who have attained eminence. 
 
 The Church (St. Mary's) is one of the most singular- 
 looking churches in the neighbourhood of London, 
 having been remodelled in 1867 by the late Mr. Teulon, 
 the lofty tower being added in 1873. It may be said to 
 contain the old church built in 1739. John Home Tooke 
 is buried, 1812, in churchyard. The register begins in 
 1582. The new church (Christ Church) is near the 
 railway station. It was built in 1852, at the cost of Miss 
 Lewis, by Sir G. Scott. 
 
 The magnificent residence of Baron Lionel Eoths- 
 child at Gunntrsbury is Im. S.E. from the railway sta- 
 tion. It is more easily reached from Brentford or Kew. 
 Princess Amelia resided here from 1761 to 1788, in a house 
 afterwards pulled down. 
 
 A pleasant walk may be taken from Brentford, past 
 Boston and Little Ealing, a hamlet of old houses, and 
 through fields to Ealing town and station. (See Brentford 
 and Keic.) 
 
 East Ham, Essex. 
 
 Qm.frcm Fenclnirch St. St7i. Pop. 4334. 
 This village, on the road between Ilford and the 
 Thames at Xorth Woolwich, where the road fi'om Lon- 
 don to Barking crosses it, is wonderfully rural, con- 
 sidering it is nearer London than Chiswick, and many 
 another place on the western side, which seem quite 
 subm-ban. The East Ham Level borders the Thames, S. 
 of the village. The church (St. Mary Magdalene) stands S. 
 of the village, near the Level. It is poor, but picturesque,
 
 42 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 partly Norm., with one of the few ancient apses in England. 
 *bee monument to Eclmmid Nevil, whose claim to be Earl 
 of Westmoreland was disallowed by the peers in 1605, 
 though he is so entitled in the epitaph, d. 1647 ; and 
 grave of Dr. Stukeley, the antiquary, d. 1765. The 
 living is a rectory, worth 600?. a year, in the patronage 
 of Brasenose College, Oxford. The register begins in 
 1695. 
 
 A Koman cemetery was discovered in 1863, about 
 nine yards west of church. There are signs of a camp 
 near same spot. East Ham Level was very early, perhaps 
 in Roman times, formed by drainage and embankment. It 
 is crossed by the high level sewer, which discharges at 
 Barking Creek. (See.) The Chartered Gas Company 
 occupy the great works seen on the right from the 
 London and Tilbury Line. The surrounding town is 
 called Beckton. There is storage for 80,000 tons of coal, 
 and 10 million cubic feet of gas can be made per diem. 
 (See North Woolwich.) 
 
 Flasket, a hamlet, is on left of railway, just before 
 reaching East Ham Stn. Here Elizabeth Ery lived 
 from 1808, and received the King of Prussia, &c. At 
 Gree7i Street is a red brick house called Boleyn Castle, 
 with some ancient features, said to be the old mansion of 
 the Nevil**. It is on the Barking Eoad, |m. W. fi'om East 
 Ham. 
 
 Edgware, Middlesex. 
 
 llim. from King's Cross Stn. Pop. 655. 
 
 HisTOKY. — Not mentioned in D.S., formerly called 
 Eggesivere : derivation unknown, but possibly refer- 
 ring to a guardhouse or station in the Watling Street, 
 which here entered the wilder forest district; possibly 
 to its situation on the edge of the higher ground, north- 
 west. The town lies partly in Whitchurch parish, and 
 stretches about a mile along the old highway. The 
 manor belonged to the famous Countess of Salisbury, 
 whose chastity is said to be commemorated in the 
 motto of the Order of the Garter. It has belonged to 
 All Souls' College since 1443. There was also a manor 
 known as Edgware Bois, whose name sufficiently de- 
 notes its wooded state. It belonged to the Hospitallers, 
 and is now private property. 
 
 The Church (St. John of Jerusalem) is very unin- 
 teresting, the gi'eater part built in 1765 and " restored"
 
 EDMONTON. 43 
 
 in 1S45. The lining is a vicarage in the gift of the lord 
 of the manor of Edgware Bois, and is "svorth 4:~oL per 
 annum. The register only dates from 1717. 
 
 Eoman remains have been frequently found in and 
 about Edgware, and 
 
 Brod-hy EiU, Im. X.W. along the line of old road, is 
 generally identified by antiquaries with the Eoman 
 station of Sulloniacae. at or near the tenth mile stone. 
 
 In the street of Edgware is the blacksmith's shop 
 where Handel took refuge from the rain, and conceived 
 his " Harmonious Blacksmith." (See Whitchurch, or Little 
 Stanmore.) 
 
 Edmonton, Middlesex. (N.) 
 
 lOlm.from Liverpool Street Stn. Pop. 13,860. 
 
 History. — Called Adehneton in D. S., "the to^^Ti of 
 Aldhelm, or Adelm," when it formed part of the estate of 
 Geoffrey Mandeville. There are many sub-manors, none 
 of note. The inns are mentioned by Izaak Walton and 
 others. The " Bell " is celebrated by Cowper as the place 
 where Mr. and Mrs. Gilpin intended to dine on the 20th 
 anniversary of their wedding. 
 
 The Chuech (All Saints) is at the X. end of the town in 
 Lower Edmonton. It presents no features of interest, 
 though it is ancient. The register dates from 1557 for 
 burials, and 1559 for baptisms. The living is a vicarage 
 in the gift of the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's. 
 
 On the left going from the church to the high road is 
 Bay Cottage, a small, white house, in which Charles Lamb 
 d. 1834. He and his sister, d. 1847, are buried in the 
 churchyard, on the right of the path, S.W. of the church. 
 
 Edmonton is often mentioned in early literature, and 
 was long a rural resort. It is now, however, rapidly 
 becoming an ordinary suburb, and already three district 
 churches have been built to meet the wants of a rapidly 
 increasing population. 
 
 Winch more Hill is about 2m. N.W. It is a station on 
 the G.X.E., and is an ecclesiastical district with a parish 
 church (St. Paul's), built in 1851. On Bush Hill fm. E., 
 was formerly held " Beggars Bush Fair."' At Winchmore 
 Hill, which is pleasantly situated in an undulating and 
 well-timbered district, a number of handsome houses have 
 been built of late. Here lived Thomas Hood for some 
 years. 
 
 Southgate (Stn. G.X.E.), which derives its name fi'om
 
 u 
 
 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 its position on the edge of Enlicld Chase, is 3m. W. of 
 Edmonton, but is now a separate ecclesiastical district. 
 The village is very pleasant and old fashioned still. There 
 is much wood, including, in the grounds of Michenden 
 House, the most widely spreading oak in England. In 
 1873 its branches stretched 126 ft. The church, by Sir 
 G. Scott, built in 1863, contains some good stained glass, 
 designed by Mr. Burne Jones and Mr. Rossetti, and made 
 by Clayton and Bell. 
 
 Pleasant walks from Southgate lead to Palmer's Green, 
 on the road to Enfield, and to Golney Hatch (See). 
 
 Elstree, Herts. 
 
 11m. from St. Pancras Stn. Pop, 525. 
 
 The name has greatly puzzled antiquaries. It was 
 anciently, it is said, translated into the Latin Nemus 
 A'/uiiirntm, but it is much more likely to have some refer- 
 ence to the Old Street, or Watling Street, and may pos- 
 sibly be connected with the bend or curve to the right 
 here noticed. The manor belonged to the Abbey of St. 
 Albans, and is now Lord Strafford's. 
 
 The Church (St. Nicholas) is modern. The register 
 begins in 1656. The living is a rectory in the gift of the 
 Lord Cliancellor, and worth 490/. a year. Martha Reay, 
 murdered 1779, and William Weare, murdered 1823, are 
 buried in churchyard. 
 
 Elstree stands very high, and is well wooded. Eine 
 views N. may be obtained towards St. Albans, and W. over 
 the Elstree reservoir, a sheet of water belonging to the 
 Grand Junction Canal, nearly |m. long. Fishing is al- 
 lowed at the rate of 2s. 6d. per day for pike, or Is. for 
 bottom fishing. The village, very little of which is actu- 
 ally in the parish, is pleasant and pretty, and contains 
 some picturesque houses. 
 
 Eltham, Kent. (S.E.) 
 
 9 Jm. f7-om Charing Cross Stn. Pop. 4064. 
 
 There are few places within so short a distance from 
 London which can be held to equal Eltham for interest. 
 A 2m. walk from Lee Stn, is the best way to see it. The 
 Eltham Stn. is also convenient, but the tourist who 
 wishes to see the place aright, should go by the road from 
 Lee, and come back by rail. (See also under Greenwich.) 
 
 History. — Eltham is called AUeham in D.S. — that
 
 ELTHAM. 45 
 
 is, the ''old home." Queen Isabel, mother of Edward III., 
 seems to have bought the manor from Lord Scrope ; but 
 there was a king's palace here much earlier. Henry III. 
 kept his Christmas here in 1270, and thenceforth it was 
 the usual place at which to hold a "public Christmas.*' 
 Anthony Bee, Bishop of Durham, had it for a time in 
 the beginning of the 14th century, and died there in 
 1311. He bestowed great pains on improving the 
 buildings, but nothing probably remains of his work. 
 Edward III. held two Parliaments here, and entertained 
 John, King of France. Eichard II. received Leo, King of 
 Armenia, at Eltham. He ke[it several Christmases here, 
 as did the next four kings, and Henry TIL Henry Till. 
 preferred Greenwich, but at Eltham celebrated the 
 " still Christmas," 1526, because of the plagme which 
 raged in London, so that none dared come to the court. 
 The ordinances for the government of the king's house- 
 hold were made at Eltham the same year, and were in 
 force until very recently. In the succeeding reigns 
 Eltham was neglected for Greenwich. A survey of it 
 was made by the Long Parliament, from which it appears 
 that among the buildings were a chapel, a great hall, 
 36 rooms on the ground floor, 38 above, and other smaller 
 apartments, making T.s in all. Of these all'have perished, 
 except the gi-eat hall, which was, till recently, a bam. 
 At the Piestoration, a lease of the house and manor was 
 given to Sir John Shaw, who made the " court" into a 
 farmhouse. In the reign of George IT. it had a narrow 
 escape of being pulled down l^y Wyatville, for the sake 
 of the roof. A modern house has been made of the 
 offices adjoining the hall, and some care is now taken 
 of it. 
 
 The Church (St John the Baptist) is without interest, 
 ha\ing been rebuilt in 1874. The register dates from 
 1583. The living is a vicarage in private patronage, and 
 worth 400?. a year. 
 
 There are two district churches : Holy Trinity, built 
 by G. E. Street, K.A., in 1869, and St. Peters. 
 
 The village lies on the dii'ect road from Lee to Bexley. 
 It is commonplace, though pleasantly situated on the 
 hill, and commanding good views. The " Palace " 
 stands about im. to the right by a pretty road from 
 nearly opposite the church. It is well to ask for a key 
 to the hall at one of the low houses on the right. Then
 
 46 
 
 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 cross the bridge over the moat, observing the pointed 
 arches. The entrance to the hall is on the right. Ob- 
 serve fine views over the valley towards London. The 
 hall is imposing from its height, and is visible from the 
 Lee Eoad. It is of brick, partly faced with stone. Oh- 
 sr-rve the fine windows, and the bay window at X. end. 
 The interior is 100 feet long by 36 wide and 55 high. 
 There were fine carvings on the beams and in the vault- 
 ing of the bay windows, but they have been wantonly 
 destroyed. There are extensive vaultings under the 
 platform on which the house is built. 
 
 There were three parks attached to the king's house : 
 1, Home or Lee, on the N.W. ; 2, the Middle Park ; 
 3, the Great Park. Of these the Middle Park only 
 remains. It lies on the right of the road from the town to 
 the railway station, and S. of the road from Lee. Here for 
 some years Mr. Blenkiron bred racehorses and held an- 
 nual sales of young horses. After his death the establish- 
 ment was broken up and the stock sold, when Gladiateur, 
 for which he had given 6090/., fetched 7350?., and Blair 
 Athol sold for the highest sum ever given for a horse, 
 13,125?. 
 
 There are several handsome seats about Eltham, but it 
 is rapidly being swallowed up in villas. Tandyck, the 
 painter, lived here, as did Lilburne, Cromwell's opponent, 
 and James Sherard, the botanist, whose ' Hortus Eltham- 
 ensis ' is well known. His brother, William Sherard, 
 was the founder of the Botanical Chair at Oxford. 
 
 Mott Ingham is a hamlet in Eltham parish. It lies 
 nearly due S., a little W. of the railway station, and is fast 
 becoming a populous suburb. {See AYickham, East.) 
 
 Enfield, Middlesex. 
 
 12hn. from Liverpool Street Stn. Pop. 16,054. 
 
 A pretty and pleasant walk may be taken from Enfield 
 Station by Baker Street to Forty Hill ; thence by Bulls- 
 more Lane to "Waltham Cross, and on to AValtbam 
 Abbey, returning by train from Waltham Station. 
 
 History. — Enfield was granted by William I. to 
 Geofi'rey Mandeville, in whose posterity it may be said 
 still to continue, for it was inherited by his descendant, 
 the wife of Henry lY., who attached it to the Duchy of 
 Lancaster, and as such it is now the property of the 
 Crown. There were several minor manors, one of which,
 
 ENFIELD. 47 
 
 Worcesters, was so called from Tiptoft, Earl of Worcester, 
 beheaded 1471, notable for his learning and his cruelty. 
 At Enfield House, part of which still remains, shut in by 
 shops in the High Street, S. side, opposite church, the 
 childi'en of Henry YIII. were brought up. Here 
 Elizabeth received intelligence of her father's death. 
 She visited Enfield for hunting on several occasions. In 
 the reign of James I. the house was occupied by Lord 
 William Howard. The town had declined in importance 
 until the establishment of the Eoyal Small Arms Factory, 
 at the E. side of the parish, not far S. from the Eoyal 
 Powder Mills at Waltham. It has still, however, very 
 little of the suburban in its character, and as the country 
 surrounding it is well timbered and the roads are shady, 
 it takes high rank among the more interesting of the 
 London environs. 
 
 The Church (St. Andrew's) is on the N. side of the 
 market place. It is large, but presents few architectural 
 features of interest. On the N. side of the chancel is a 
 monument dear to antiquaries. It is that of Joane, Lady 
 Tiptoft, mother of the Earl of AVorcester mentioned 
 above. The brass represents her in a heraldic mantle, 
 and the shields with which her effigy is surrounded may 
 be compared with some of those on the tomb of her 
 relative, Eleanor de Bohun, Duchess of Gloucester, in 
 Westminster Abbey. The arch above bears the arms of 
 Edmund Lord Eoos, her descendant and heir. There are 
 three other brasses. A stone monument represents Sir 
 Nicholas Eaynton (d. 1646) and his wife (d. 1640) in 
 their robes as Lord Mayor and Lady Mayoress ; and 
 there is a tablet to John Abernethy, the talented and 
 eccentric physician, who died at Enfield, 1831. 
 
 Baker titreet contains many interesting old houses of 
 red brick, some of them with handsome wrought-iron 
 gates. Lovers of Queen Anne architecture will do 
 well to study here. Forty Hall was built by Inigo 
 Jones. Enfield Court contains some quaint specimens 
 of brickwork, and a fine terraced garden ^ith clipped 
 yews. 
 
 At the N. end of Baker Street are Forty Hill, E., and 
 Clay Hill, W. Forty Hill has a church (Jesus Church), 
 and Clay Hill another (St. John the Baptist). At Cock 
 Fosters, 3m. W., is a third church (Christ Church, Trent 
 Park).
 
 48 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 The Clmse lies between Forty Hill and Cock Fosters, 
 and extends X. to Theobalds. It has been disafforested, 
 but two or three fine seats, surrounded with ample parks 
 containing handsome old trees, attest its former beauty. 
 Trent Park was given by George III. to his favourite 
 physician, Sir Eichard Jebb. North, South, East, and 
 AVest Lodges are now gentlemen's houses, and mark the 
 old boundaiies of the Chase. Fine views may be had 
 from the Eidge Eoad, which runs nearly X. from near the 
 Enfield Eailway Station to Xorth Lodge, and eventually, 
 about 4m. to Potter's Bar, the extreme boundary on 
 that side. 
 
 The Small Arms Factory is at the opposite extremity of 
 the parish. A station (Armoury Lane) on the G.E.E. is 
 about dm. W. of the Factory, which is open to visitors 
 very Monday and Thursday from 9 to 12, and from 
 2 to -i. The buildings are very extensive, surrounding 
 a quadrangle, and visitors may see the barrels ground and 
 stocks finished. The proving is done at a separate build- 
 ing S. of the factory, to which the public are not ad- 
 mitted. The Martini-Henry rifle is now made instead of 
 the Enfield, and the Factory is able to turn out about 
 5000 a week, the ordinary number being about 1800. 
 
 Close to the Armoury Station is Enfield Wash, on the 
 direct X. Eoad from Tottenham and Edmonton to Wal- 
 tham Cross and Cheshunt. It is a busy little town. 
 Here was the house of Mother Wells, where, in 1753, 
 Elizabeth Canning was shut up for a month, according to 
 her own account. The case is involved in mystery, 
 which will now probably never be cleared up. Canning 
 was eventually convicted of perjury, and transported to 
 America, where she married well, and died in 1773. 
 
 Charles Lamb long resided in a " gambogish-coloured 
 house" at Chase Side. Isaac Disraeli, father of Lord 
 Beaconsfield, was born at Enfield, and lived there till his 
 marriage. Eabbage and Marryat were educated at 
 Ponder's End, a village on the Xorth Eoad, l^m. S. of 
 Enfield Wash. At South Lodge lived Lord Chatham; at 
 East Lodge, Lord Eoslyn, Lord Chancellor. Eichard 
 Gough, the antiquary, lived at Gough's Park. Edmund 
 Calamy died at his house at Enfield in 1666.
 
 nXCHLET. 49 
 
 Epping Forest, Essex. 
 
 The town of Epping lies beyond our limits, being 
 16^m. from Whitechapel ; but portions of the Forest 
 will be found described under WaWiam, Chingford, 
 and Loughton. It covered wholly or in part twenty- 
 one parishes. In 1793 only 12,000 acres remained un- 
 enclosed. In 1873 there were only 3000. In 1869 the 
 House of Commons jDrohibited further enclosures, and 
 the Corporation of London has undertaken to protect the 
 little that is left for the public recreation. 
 
 Epping Hunt, which seems to have been a remnant of 
 the time when the citizens had their common huntsman, 
 and claimed the privilege granted by Edward 1\. of 
 hunting inWaltham Forest, always took place on Easter 
 Monday, and is frequently noticed by poets and others as 
 far back as the middle of the 17th century. Of late it 
 degenerated into a mob, and in 1853 the forest about 
 Buckhurst Hill, where the meet took place, having been 
 enclosed, the hunt was brought to an end, although an 
 assembh' of holiday folk sometimes takes place in the 
 district still on Easter ]Monday, and a tame deer is 
 tormented by dogs for their amusement. Though we 
 have put down vivisection, cock-fighting, and bull-baiting, 
 we stiU allow the torture of domesticated stags. 
 
 Erith, Kent. See Plumstead. 
 
 Finchley, Middlesex, N. 
 
 lira, from King^s Cross Sfn. Pop. 7146. 
 
 A pleasant walk may be taken fi'om Highgate to 
 Finchley, 3m. ; and back by Hendon, 2m., to Edgware 
 Eoad, Im. 
 
 Finchley has always belonged to the Bishop of London. 
 The manor house, moated, still remains. It is in 
 private hands, and retains internally some ancient 
 features. It lies on the left hand of the road from High- 
 gate, a little past the Marylebone Cemetery. 
 
 The Church (St. Mary's) is practically new, having 
 been thoroughly " restored " in 1872. It contains, how- 
 ever, some curious monuments, chiefly brasses, of which 
 there are seven. One mentioned by Norden is now lost. 
 It bore this epitaph, " Joan le feme (lafemrue) de Thomas 
 Frowicke gist icy, et le dit Thomas pense de giser aveque
 
 50 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 luy." Archbishop Bancroft was rector of Finchley. The 
 living is in the gift of the Bishop, and is worth, nominally, 
 528/. a year. The register of bap. begins 1560, of bur, 1558. 
 
 There are new churches at North End (Christ Church), 
 near Finchley Common, and at East End, near the Mary- 
 lebone Cemetery already mentioned (Holy Trinity), 
 There is a cemetery for Islington and St. Pancras at 
 Finchley Common, in which Sir Henry Bishop, the 
 musical composer, was bur. 1855. 
 
 The Common was formerly celebrated for highway 
 robberies. Very little of it is now left, but a great oak 
 at Brown's Wells, a little way N. of the St. Pancras 
 Cemetery, is said to be the tree behind which Dick 
 Turpin used to take his stand. Jack Sheppard was 
 captured at Finchley in 1724. The Common was often 
 used for military encampments. Here General Monk 
 stopped on his famous march from the North in 1660. 
 When the Pretender invaded England in 1745 a camp 
 was formed here, and the disorderly march of the Guards 
 gave Hogarth the subject of a picture which offended 
 George II., and drew from him the remark that he hated 
 "boetry and bainting," 
 
 The village of Church End retains something of a rural 
 look. The church is W, of the railway station. There 
 are some old brick buildings, in one of which is the lower 
 school and dining-hall of Christ College ; the new build- 
 ings and tower opposite belong to the same institution. 
 
 Whetstone, a village on the Barnet Road, about 2m. N. 
 of Finchley, is partly in this parish and partly in Friern 
 Barnet (see). 
 
 The geology of Finchley presents some interesting 
 features (See Introductory Notice, p. 7), as it occupies a 
 district marked by the action of the " glacial drift," and 
 abounding in fossils. 
 
 Foot's Cray, Kent. SeeGuKY. 
 
 Friern Barnet, Middlesex. See Barnet. 
 
 Fulham, Middlesex, W. 
 
 4:1m. from Charing Cross hy road. Poj). 23,350. 
 History. — The name (Fuleham, D.S. ; Fullenhame, 
 Sax. Chron.) signifies, as Norden quaintly says, "the 
 habitacle of birds." The manor has belonged to the
 
 FULHAM. 51 
 
 Bishop of London from time immemorial. In 879 it was 
 occupied by the Danes for some months. In 1642 the 
 trained bands of London encamped at Turnham Green 
 and Fnlham, and a bridge of boats was made to Pntney. 
 The present bridge stands a little higher up. There 
 were several sub-manors, all held under the Bishop, but 
 Fulham has long become a mere suburb, and retains 
 now, except close about the manor house, very little of 
 its former rural appearance. 
 
 The Church (All Saints') is ancient, but has been restored 
 over and over again, so as to have veiy little antiquity left. 
 The monuments are very interesting. See brass of Mar- 
 garet Saunders, d. 1529, on the wall S. of chancel. Also 
 effigies of Lady Legh, d. 1603, in chancel ; an altar tomb, 
 with brass, name gone ; another, of Sir William Butts, 
 physician to Henry Till, and one of the founders of 
 College of Physicians, d. 1545. Tablets to Bishop 
 Gibson, d. 1748 ; Bishop Porteus, d. 1809 ; and Thomas 
 Carlos, d. 1665, son of Colonel Careless, who concealed 
 Charles 11. in the oak, and had leave to change his 
 name. In the tower is the fine statue of Lord Mor- 
 daunt, d. 1675, by F. Bird, sculptor of Queen Anne's 
 statue in St. Paul's Churchyard. Near it a brass to 
 Bishop Blomfield, d. 1857, and to his son, drowned at 
 sea. The most interesting monuments are in the church- 
 yard. Under the E. window are the tombs of Bishop 
 Compton, d. 1713, with a Greek inscription; Bishop 
 Ptobinson, 1723; Gibson, 1748, in whose tomb is also 
 buried his son-in-law, Bishop Wilson, of Bristol, d. 1792 ; 
 Sherlock, 1761; Hayter, 1762; Ternck, 1777; Lowth, 
 1787. In the new part of the chm'chyard is the grave 
 of Bishop Blomfield. Bishop Henchman, 1675, is buried 
 in the S. aisle of the church. Near the tombs of the 
 bishops are those of Sir F. Child, 1713, founder of Child's 
 Bank ; Theodore Edward Hook, 1841, the humourist ; 
 Vincent Bourne, 1747 ; and there are many quaint and 
 curious epitaphs on the gravestones. 
 
 The register begins In 1675. The living is a rectory, 
 and worth 650?. per annum. The Bishop of London is 
 the patron. One rector, Henry Hill, 1488, eventually 
 became Bishop of London. 
 
 The chui'chyard Is well kept, the central walk being 
 bordered with limes. The key may be obtained near the 
 entrance. The almshouses at the X. side were founded 
 
 E 2
 
 52 
 
 EOUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 in 1680 by Sir W. Powell for twelve widows. They 
 were rebuilt in an incongruous style in 1869, and much 
 mar the appearance of the churchyard. 
 
 Close adjoining the churchyard, on the W. side, is the 
 pleasure ground attached to the manor house, com- 
 monly called the " Palace." The entrance may be 
 reached by the Bishop's AValk, along the Thames bank, 
 from which a good view of the garden and house 
 may be obtained. The trees are very fine, some of 
 them having been planted by Compton. They were 
 remarkable even in Grindal's time. He presented grapes 
 from Fulham to Queen Elizabeth. The moat which 
 surrounds the whole place is about Im. in circuit. The 
 first Bishop certainly known to have lived here was 
 Eobert Seal, or " de Sigillo," in 1141. Bishop Eichard of 
 Gravesend, in 1303 ; Baldock, his successor ; Braybrook, 
 d. 1401; Bonner, who here "examined" Protestants; 
 Aylmer, d. 1594 ; Bancroft, Montaigne, Juxon, all lived 
 here in turn, and it has continued to the present time a 
 country house of the Bishops of London, at present un- 
 fortunately, the only one. Its damp situation, and the 
 continual growth of the town around it, make it unsuit- 
 able, and in the Middle Ages the Bishops had many other 
 seats. There are few remains more than a hundred years 
 old in the house. It consists of two courts, entered by 
 an archway. Bishop Fitz-James's arms, 1500, are over 
 the porch, as also on a tablet over the garden door. The 
 hall is immediately within the porch, built by Bishop 
 Fletcher, 1595. It is 50 ft. by 27 ft. A passage to the 
 right leads to the handsome but incongruous chapel 
 built by Bishop Tait, 1867. The library is at the other 
 end of the suite facing the garden. It contains the 
 books, much dilapidated, and now almost worthless, be- 
 queathed by Bishop Porteus, and a good collection of 
 portraits, which are worth seeing. They include Sandys, 
 Archbishop of York ; Eidley, the martyr ; Grindal, Laud, 
 Abbot, by Jansen, Bancroft, Compton, Juxon, Sheldon, 
 Henchman, Porteus, by Hoppner, R.A., and several 
 others. 
 
 Farther W. are several other seats ; among them Craven 
 Cottage, built by Lady Craven, afterwards Margravine 
 of Anspach. Here Lord Lytton resided about 1842. 
 To the E. near the church is Pryor's Bank, next it 
 Ashton Lodge, and adjoining the last stood. Egmont
 
 FULHAM. 63 
 
 Lodge, now pulled down, the residence of Theodore 
 Hook. Near it lived Granville Sharp, d. here, 1813. 
 St. John's Place is on the site. 
 
 Fulham has become of late years an integral portion 
 of London. It would be impossible to give a complete 
 perambulation of the parish within our limits, but a list 
 follows of the places chiefly of note. At Purser's Green, 
 where the Fulham and Parson's Green road divides, is a 
 stone marked "Purser's Cross, 7th Aug., 1738." Here a 
 highwayman was shot, after having been pursued from 
 Finchley Common. Parson's Green was recently sur- 
 rounded by handsome old houses. In one of them, on 
 the S.W. side, lived Mordaunt, Earl of Peterborough. 
 In another, on the same side, d. 1761, Samuel Richardson, 
 author of ' Clarissa Harlow,' &c. At East End House, 
 on the E. side, lived Sir J. Child. The porch was built 
 by Mrs. Fitzherbert, who rented it. Florio, the trans- 
 lator of ' Montaigne,' lived in High Street. Bernard 
 Lintot, Pope's publisher, at Broome House, near the 
 river, E. of the bridge. On the E. side of Fulham Ptoad, 
 behind a high brick wall, is Eavensworth House, remark- 
 able for the fine old trees planted about 1756 by John 
 Ord (Lysons, p. 229). In Arundel House lived Hallam, 
 the historian, about 1819. Hurlingham, notorious for 
 aristocratic pigeon shooting, is on the river bank below 
 the bridge. 
 
 North End, a hamlet of Fulham, was almost bare of 
 houses fifty years ago. The church was built in 1814. 
 North End Road, leading from Walham Green to Ham- 
 mersmith Road, still contains some picturesque old 
 houses. According to Mr. Thorne (p. 450) it was in a 
 house on the left hand going from Hammersmith, oppo- 
 site the Grove, that Richardson wrote his novels. It 
 was large, but is now divided, and half of it covered with 
 stucco. Dr. Crotch lived nearly opposite. At North End 
 Lodge d., 1860, the popular humourist, Albert Smith. 
 
 Walham Green is at the junction of North End and 
 Fulham roads. The church (St. John) was built in 
 1828. 
 
 Hammersmith. See. 
 
 Golder's Green. See Hendox.
 
 54 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 Greenford, Middlesex. 
 
 1km. from Hanwell Stn,, Ih'm.from Paddington Sfn. 
 Pop. 578. 
 
 Usually described as Greenford Magna, to distinguish 
 it from Greenford Parva, or Perivale. The manor was 
 given by Edward the Confessor to Westminster Abbey. 
 It became part of the endowment of the See of London in 
 1550. The village is very small, and, considering its 
 situation, wonderfully secluded. The church (Holy 
 Cross) is small, and lost its most interesting feature, an 
 E.E. chancel arch, by "restoration" in 1871. There 
 is some old stained glass, chiefly heraldic, preserved by a 
 former rector, Edward Betham. 
 
 The living is a rectory in the gift of King's College, 
 Cambridge, and is nominally worth 680/. per annum. 
 The register begins in 1539. 
 
 Greenford, Parva, Middlesex. See Perivale. 
 
 Greenwich, Kent, S.E. 
 
 Z\m.from Charing Cross Stn. Pop. 40,361. 
 History. — Greenwich signifies in A.S. the "green 
 village." The Danes visited it very early. There they 
 led St. Alphege from Canterbury, and after eight months' 
 captivity, being disappointed of a ransom for him, put him 
 to death, 1012. The manor having belonged to the Abbey 
 of St. Peter, at Ghent, came to the Crown on the sup- 
 pression of alien monasteries, but was regi-anted to the 
 Carthusians at Sheen. A sub-manor is mentioned in D.S., 
 and a royal residence stood here as early as 1300. Henry 
 lY. lived here, but it was to Humphrey, Duke of 
 Gloucester, that Greenwich owed the enclosure of the 
 park and the erection of a "castle." In 1491, Henry 
 Tudor, afterwards Henry VIIL, was born here, and here he 
 married, in 1509, his first wife, Katherineof Aragon. The 
 Lady Mary, afterwards Queen, was born here in 1516 ; in 
 1533, Elizabeth, her sister ; and at a tournament at Green- 
 wich Queen Anne Bullen was arrested in 1536. Edward 
 YI. d. here, 1553. Queen Elizabeth resided here fre- 
 quently, as did her two successors. During the Common- 
 wealth, Greenwich w^as reserved as a palace for the 
 Protector. In 1662 Charles II. resolved to pull it down 
 and build a new palace ; but only the west wing of the
 
 GREENWICH. 55 
 
 present hospital was finished, and the place remained 
 unoccupied until Queen 3Iary II., after the naval victory 
 of La Hogue, resolved to make a hospital for seamen. 
 Under George I. the lands of the rebel Earl of Derwent- 
 water were assigned to it. But after accommodating as 
 many as 2700 men at one time dm-ing the war with 
 France, it was, by an improved arrangement of pensions, 
 superseded, and eventually in 1869 closed by an Act of 
 Parliament, which provides that it may be used again in 
 case of war. Meanwhile the buildings are employed for 
 a Eoyal Naval College. The Observatory was founded 
 by Charles II. on the site of a tower built by Duke Hum- 
 phrey. 
 
 The Church (St. Alphege) is supposed to stand on 
 the site of the Archbishop's martyrdom. It was rebuilt 
 in 1718 from a design by John James. There are monu- 
 ments to Mr. Angerstein, whose i^ictures became the first 
 national collection; to Thomas Tallis, the composer, 
 d. 1585 ; and to G-eneral Wolfe, killed at Quebec, 1759, 
 brought over and buried here. There are several other 
 churches here and at Blackheath, but all modem, and 
 none presenting any features of particular interest. 
 Greenwich is a vicarage in the gift of the Crown, and 
 worth 700/. a year. The register begins in 1616. 
 
 The Hospital is situated on the river's edge, and may 
 best be reached by a steamer from London Bridge. On 
 the right of the central gateway, close to the river, is a 
 red granite obelisk to the memory of Lieutenant Bellot, of 
 the French Xavy, an Arctic navigator. The terrace is 
 865 ft. long, the colonnades are each 34:7 ft., and contain 
 300 coupled Doric columns 20 ft. high. The central 
 square is 570 ft. wide, and contains a statue, by Piysbrach, 
 of George II. The house at the back seen through the 
 colonnades is the Queens House, built by Inigo Jones for 
 Anne of Denmark. It is now the Eoyal Xaval School, and 
 modernized. The S.W. block of the hospital was built by 
 Yanbrugh, the X.W. by Webb, from Jones's design, the 
 other two from Wren's designs, as well as the colonnades 
 and general plan. The W. block was originally intended for 
 a palace by Charles II. In the S.W. is the Painted Hall, 
 on the embellishment of which Sir James Thornhill was 
 engaged for twenty years. Here Xelson's body lay in 
 state, 1805 ; it is now a picture gallery. 106 ft. long, 56 
 wide, and 50 high. The pictures, chiefly naval portraits,
 
 56 BOUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 were all presented. See No, 76, Battle of Trafalgar, by 
 /. M. W. Turner, JR. A. The upper hall contains Nelson's 
 relics. In the N.E. block is the chapel, not shown to the 
 public as a rule, but a fine example of the classical style 
 of the last century, designed by " Athenian " Stuart, 1789. 
 It is 111 ft. long and 52 wide. Lower down, on the same 
 side of the Square, is the Naval Museum, chiefly intended 
 for the instruction of the pupils of the College, and 
 occupying seventeen rooms. 
 
 Behind the Hospital rises the wooded height so well 
 known to holiday folk, surmounted by the quaint towers 
 of the Ohservafory. Admission can only be had on 
 special application. This is the head-quarters of all 
 astronomical and meteorological observations, and the 
 time-ball in the E. turret gives the hour to all the sea- 
 going world. The ball rises half-mast high 5 min. before 
 1 P.M., to the top three minutes later, and falls at 1. The 
 longitude is measured E. and W. from Greenwich, which 
 stands on 0^, 0', 0". (See Chingford.) The view is too 
 well known to need description, extending across the 
 Thames northward to the Essex hills, and across London 
 westward to Windsor. A well-known picture by Turner 
 in the National Gallery, and an engraving in his ' Liber 
 Studiorum,' were taken from this height. 
 
 There are some quaint houses of the 17th and 18th 
 centuries on Groom's Hill, W. of the Park. E. of the Hos- 
 pital is Norfolk College, an almshouse founded by Howard, 
 Earl of Northampton, in 1603. The Earl is buried in the 
 chapel. See his monument. The building is picturesque. 
 
 Blachheath lies immediately to the S. of Greenwich 
 Park, part of it being in the adjoining parishes. The 
 Common is open and breezy, surrounded, but not en- 
 croached on, by villas. It is crossed by the old Watling 
 Street leading to Dover, a road which, though its name 
 is English, may date from before the Roman occuj^ation. 
 Ancient British barrows have been found on the heath. 
 Here successively encamped the rebels under Wat Tyler, 
 a smith of Dartford, in 1381; the Kentish men under 
 Jack Cade in 1450, and the Cornish men under Lord 
 Audley in 1497. Here were the state receptions of 
 illustrious foreigners. Henry lY. met Manuel Pal^eo- 
 logus, Emperor of Constantinople, and the citizens of 
 London the Emperor Sigismund, on Blackheath. Here 
 they welcomed Henry A', on his return from Agincourt ;
 
 HADLET. 
 
 57 
 
 Henry VI. after his coronation at Paris ; Cardinal 
 Campeggio, coming to try the great divorce question 
 between Henry Till, and Katherine of Aragon ; Anne of 
 Cleves and her new husband ; and Charles 11. on the 29th 
 May, 1G60. In 1865 gravel digging was put a stop to, 
 and in 1866 an Act was past securing Blackheath to the 
 public. The area is now about 267 acres. 
 
 The Ranger's Lodge is in the Park, but fronts Chester- 
 field Walk, in which lived General Wolfe. 'J'he Lodge 
 belonged in 1753 to the celebrated Lord Chesterfield. 
 Princess Sophia of Gloucester lived in it till her death, 
 184:4. It was recently occupied by the Duke of Con- 
 naught. Yanbrugh House and Yanbrugh Castle, both 
 quaint specimens of brickwork, are X.E. of the Hospital, 
 and were built by the eccentric architect for his own 
 IDleasure. 
 
 3Iorden College, on the liiU over the railway tunnel, is 
 w^orth a visit. (."^Ve Charlton). There is a singular cavern 
 in the chalk, consisting of four chambers, at the Point, a 
 place from which there is a fine view. 
 
 A pleasant walk may be taken through Greenwich 
 Hospital and Park, across Blackheath to Morden College, 
 thence by Kidbrook Church (built 1867), turning right, 
 and across the green, turning left, and through fields to 
 Eltham (see). The whole distance is about 3m. 
 
 Hadley, or Monken Hadley, Middlesex. 
 
 9ir/?.. from King's Cross Stn. Pop. 978. 
 
 Closely adjoins Barnet on the X. The name is derived 
 from its elevated situation, Headleigh. The name 
 "Monken" because the manor was given to the monks 
 of Walden Abbey by the Mandevilles. Since the suppres- 
 sion it has many times changed hands. 
 
 The Church (St. Mary's) is large, with transepts, 
 Perp. in style, and only ancient in name, having been 
 rebuilt by way of restoration about twenty years ago. The 
 monuments are unimportant, except one in the chancel 
 to Sir Eoger Wilbraham, d. 1616, by X. Stone. Observe 
 the ancient beacon S.W. angle of tower. The rectory is 
 only of nominal value. 
 
 The village is a continuation of Chipping Barnet, with 
 a side street S.E, on the road to Southgate, at the end of 
 which, near the Barnet Station, is Hadley Common, the 
 only remnant unenclosed of Enfield Chase. ('See p. 48.)
 
 58 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 It is pleasant and breezy, 1 00 acres in extent, tlie lower 
 part covered \\ith wood. The upper part is sometimes 
 called Gladmore Heath, and sometimes Monkey (i.e. 
 Monken) ]\[ead. Here, in all probability, the greater part 
 of the Battle of Barnet took place in 1471, on Easter 
 Sunday, April 14, when '\Yarwick and his brother 
 Montacute were defeated and slain by Edward TV. The 
 site is marked by an obelisk, which stands just outside 
 Wrotham Park, the seat of the Earl of Strafford. At the 
 S.W. end of the Common, near the church, is an ancient 
 oak tree, mentioned by Lytton in the '* Last of the 
 Barons." There are several other remarkable trees, relics 
 of the forest, and the wood is a favourite resort in 
 summer for pleasure parties. From the highest ground 
 there is a fine view, which includes the Kent and Essex 
 hills, and sometimes the Thames. 
 
 Ham, Surrey. See Kixgstox. 
 
 Ham, East, Essex. See East Ham. 
 
 Ham. House, Surrey. See Petersham. 
 
 Hammersmith, Middlesex, W. 
 
 Fop. 42,691. 
 
 Though now entirely built over, and presenting few 
 features of interest to the excursionist, Hammersmith was 
 formerly a "hamlet" in Fulham. The church (St. 
 Paul's) was built by Archbishop Laud, and consecrated 
 in 1631. It is only interesting for the monuments, some 
 of which are worth seeing. S. of chancel. Earl of 
 Mulgi-ave's, d. 1646. N., a bronze bust of Charles I., 
 placed there, with an inscription, by Sir Nicholas Crispe, 
 M'hose monument is below, d. 1665. Tablet in S. aisle to 
 Thomas Worlidge, engraver. The living, a vicarage, is 
 worth 600?. a year, and is in the gift of the Bishop of 
 London. There are three new churches in the district. 
 
 Hammersmith has also several Roman Catholic esta- 
 blishments, ostensibly of an educational character, chiefly 
 situated in Brook Green, on the X.E. side of Broadway. 
 At the same side is Shepherd's Bush, not long ago very 
 open and filled with market gardens, but now rapidly 
 becoming a suburb of second-class houses. 
 
 At Broadway a cross road leads to the Hammersmith 
 Suspension Bridge, erected in 1827, and the chief villa 
 residences, for which a few years ago Hammersmith was 
 famous, were on the Thames bank adjoining. Branden-
 
 HAMPSTEAD. 59 
 
 burg House, where Queen Caroline d. 1821, was im- 
 mediately E. of the bridge. It has been pulled down ; a 
 madhouse occupies part of the site, and the Fulham 
 Workhouse another part. West of the bridge is the 
 Mall, the lower end of which is now much degraded, and 
 contains little of note except the boating houses. At the 
 " Doves " public-house is a room where Thomson, the 
 poet, is said to have composed part of his " Winter." Here 
 the late Duke of Sussex had a smoking room. Close by, 
 over the Creek, a little watercourse, crossed by a foot 
 bridge, is the Upper Mall. In a house here Queen 
 Katherine lived after the death of Charles II. It has 
 been pulled do^TO. Here also lived the Duke of Sussex, 
 Captain Marryat, and, in the reign of Queen Anne, Dr. 
 Eadcliffe. (.s^e Carshalton.) De Loutherbourg, the 
 landscape painter, lived in 13, Hammersmith TeiTace, 
 beyond the Mall. Opposite the church, in Queen Street, 
 is an old brick mansion, much altered, which was the 
 manor house, and the residence of the Shetfields, Earls 
 of 3Iulgrave, afterwards Dukes of Buckingham, and of 
 Sir Elijah Impey, so notorious as the coadjutor of Warren 
 Hastings. 
 
 Hampstead, Middlesex, N.W. 
 Pop, 32,291. 
 
 One of the most pleasing, open, breezy, and picturesque 
 places ^"ithin a short walking distance of London is Hamp- 
 stead Heath. It is needless to attempt any description 
 of the place or the view from it, but in the following 
 notes mention is chiefly made of the houses, or sites, of 
 interest, historically or otherwise. 
 
 The hill is 430 ft. above the river, the summit being 
 capped by a stratum of Bagshot sand, about 80 ft. thick. 
 Below this is the London Clay. From the sand, the clay 
 being impervious, issued most of the streams, the Holborn, 
 the Tyburn, &c., which formerly traversed what is now 
 London. The pond on the top of the Heath is thus 
 fed. 
 
 The manor belonged to the Abbey of Westminster, and 
 afterwards to the Crown; and after passing through 
 many private families, it is now the property of the 
 Maryon Wilson family, who also own another favourite 
 London outlet — Charlton and part of Blackheath (see). 
 The sub-manor of Belsize still belongs to the Dean and 
 Chapter of Westminster.
 
 60 BOUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 The Church (St, John's) is of no interest, having only 
 been built in 1747, but the tower and spire are conspicu- 
 ous objects from many of the London streets, far below. 
 The vicarage, in the gift of Sir T. M. Wilson, is worth 
 760^. a year. The parish register dates from 1560. Sir 
 James Mackintosh, d. 1832 ; the Baillies — Joanna, d. 1851, 
 and Agnes, d. 1861, aged 100 — are buried in the church- 
 yard, as well as Constable, the landscape painter, d. 1837, 
 and McArdell, the engraver, d. 1765. There are many 
 other churches in and around Hampstead, all modern, 
 and few of much beauty or interest. 
 
 Hampstead has been from time to time the residence 
 of a gTeat number of eminent persons. Of the houses 
 still remaining, the following are noteworthy : — The 
 Soldiers' Daughters' Home stands on the site of a house 
 built by Sir Harry Yane, and inhabited also by Joseph 
 Butler, Bishop of Durham, author of the ' Analogy of 
 Religion'; lower down the hill, on the W. side, in 
 Eoslyn House, lived Alex. Wedderburn, Lord Lough- 
 borough, Earl of Eoslyn ; at the top, near the pond, is 
 the inn, " Jack Straw's Castle," so often mentioned in the 
 memoirs of Charles Dickens ; just behind it, on the slope, 
 the body of John Sadleir, M.P., was found, 1850 ; on the 
 W. slope stood Belsize manor house, occupied for some 
 years by Spencer Perceval, afterwards Prime Minister. On 
 the N.E. side is the " Spaniards " Inn, just outgide the 
 boundary of the parish (see Highgate), marking the site of 
 atoll-gate of the Bishop of London, at the entrance to his 
 park. The '' Holly Bush Tavern," W. of the High Street, 
 was the studio of Eomney. Adjoining the " Spaniards" 
 is the house of Lord Erskine, next to it, Heath House, 
 once the residence of Sir Ed. Parry ; to Wildwood House, 
 near the Firs, Lord Chatham retired when ill, 1767 ; at 
 the other end of the Avenue is the Hill where George 
 Crabbe constantly visited Mr. Hoare ; Collins, the painter, 
 lived at North End, and on the Heath ; Lawn Bank, John 
 Street, was the lodging ol Keats, and among others who 
 occasionally lived here, or whose houses cannot be iden- 
 tified, were Thomas Day, Samuel Johnson, when he 
 wrote the 'Tanity of Human AVishes,' John Gay, Sir 
 Richard Steele, Wilkie, Stanfield, whose house is still to 
 be seen, Leigh Hunt, in the Yale of Health, Blake, the 
 mad artist, and many more. There are many houses 
 of architectural interest, chiefly in the Queen Anne 
 style.
 
 HAilPTOX. 61 
 
 On the road, along the ridge from Hampstead to High- 
 gate, the wood on the left belongs to Highgate, having 
 formed part of the Bishop's park, and is still known as 
 Bishop's Wood. The park on the right, Co.tn Wood, or 
 Ken Wood, is in the parish of St. Pancras. It was the 
 residence of W. Mm-ray, Lord Chief Justice, Earl of 
 Mansfield, who d. here in 1798, by whom the woods were 
 improved and laid out, and it still belongs to his family. 
 The house is handsoiiie, having been new fronted by 
 Robert Adam, and contains a few interesting family 
 jDortraits, 
 
 Kilb'irn is in Hampstead parish. It lies on the Edg- 
 ware Eoad, about 2m, from the Marble Arch, It presents 
 now no ancient features, but was the site of a priory for 
 Augustinian nuns. The local names preserve its memory, 
 A mile farther. Shoot Up Hill recalls the name of a manor 
 held by the Priory of St. John, Clerkenwell. St. Johns 
 Wood, a district of St. Marylebone, belonged to the same 
 house as part of their manor of Lilestone, or Lisson. In 
 St. John's AVood Eoad lived and died Sir Edwin Landseer, 
 the great animal painter. His house was isolated, within 
 a wall, about the middle of the road on the S. side. 
 
 Hampton, Middlesex. 
 
 lorn, from Waterloo Stn. Pop. 3915. 
 
 Owing to the existence of the old Palace of Hampton 
 Court, and of the park of Bushey, close adjoining, as well 
 as from its situation by the river's bank, this has always 
 been one of the most charming resorts of the London sight- 
 seer. A pleasant excursion in the neighbourhood may be 
 made to include Kcio Gardens {set), and to a boating 
 party who do not care to ascend beyond the Lock at 
 Teddington (see), the place is readily accessible after a 
 short walk. The Palace and grounds are open every day, 
 except Eriday, from 10 to 6 in summer, and 10 to 4 in 
 winter ; on Sundays from 2. 
 
 History, — The manor of Hampton (D.S. Earnntmie) 
 was in private hands till 1211, when it Avas bequeathed to 
 the Hospitallers, who in 1515 gave a long lease of it to 
 Cardinal Wolsey. He built the older portion of the 
 Palace with such magnificence that it excited the covet- 
 ousness of Henry YIIL, to whom, in 1526, he was 
 obliged to present it. Henry A'lII. resided much in it, 
 as did his son, who was born at Hampton Court 1537, 
 when Queen Jane, his mother, died. Here Katherine
 
 62 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 Parr was m, 1543. Philip and Mary lived hero after 
 their marriage, 1554. Elizabeth here held the Council 
 which condemned Mary Stuart, 1568. James I. held the 
 Conference between the bishops and the Presbyterians 
 at Hampton Court, 1604. Charles I. frequently visited the 
 place, and was under restraint here in 1647. Oliver Crom- 
 well made it his chief country residence, and here caught 
 the ague from which he died, Charles II. occasionally 
 came to it, but it is, after Wolsey. chiefly associated with 
 the name of William III., who pulled down two courts and 
 erected instead, from the designs of Wren, the state 
 apartments now shown to the public. It was while riding 
 in Hampton Park that his horse fell with him, causing the 
 acccident from which he died in 1702. His successors, 
 doMTi to George II., lived much at Hampton Court, but 
 since his day the private rooms have been divided into 
 suites of apartments which are given by the Queen to 
 pensioners on her bounty. Faraday had a residence here 
 from 1858 till his death in 1867. 
 
 The Church (St. Mary's) was built in 1830. It contains 
 some monuments of interest from an older church. It is a 
 vicarage worth 700/. a year, the gift of the Lord Chan- 
 cellor. The retiister begins in 1554, There are churches 
 at Hampton Wick and New Hampton. 
 
 Bushey Park, the gardens, and Hampton Court itself, 
 are the chief attractions to the sight-seer. The Park 
 belonging to the Court is 576 acres, and contains many 
 fine trees, and Bushey Park, which is cut off by the high 
 road from Hampton Wick to Hampton, is about 1000 
 acres in extent, and remarkable for its horse-chestnut, 
 avenue, Im. long. The flowering of the trees is usually 
 announced in the London papers every spring, and draws 
 crowds of visitors. In the Lodge near the N. end lived 
 Lord North, the favourite minister of George III. It 
 was afterwards occuj^ied by the Duke of Clarence. 
 
 Crossini the road, the park of Hampton is entered very 
 near the Palace, Cle'se to the gate is the Maze. The red 
 brick front of Wren's building is well reflected in the 
 ornamental water. The famous vine is shown on appli- 
 cation to a gardener. It is a black Hamburgii, its princi- 
 pal stem 38 in. in circumference, and its leading branches 
 110 ft. long. See the view through an arch in the inner 
 or Fountain Court. In sunny weather the efiect is very 
 pleasing. 
 
 It is best to enter the Palace by the west front. The
 
 HAMPTON. 
 
 63 
 
 buildings on the left of the Green are stables. The 
 entrance is under an archway, part of Wolsey's building. 
 ^ee the oriel window, above the arch, and the gi'oining of 
 the archway. The western court is 167 ft. square. Crossing 
 it, another gateway is reached. Within, on the left, is 
 the entrance to the gi-eat hall, which is 106 ft. long, 40 ft. 
 wide, and 60 ft. high. The roof is of open hammer 
 beams, decorated with arms and badges. The windows 
 are filled ^vith modern stained glass, intended to show in 
 heraldry the descent of Henry YIII,, and each of his six 
 wives, from Edward III. The tapestry on the walls is 
 Flemish, and the designs have been attributed to Van 
 Orley. They tell the history of Abraham. Beyond the 
 Hall is the West Drawing Eoom, 60 ft. by 29 ft. The 
 ceiling is decorated with the initials, &c., of Henry Till, 
 and Jane Seymoui'. The chimney-piece and portrait of 
 Wolsey are of later date. A corridor leads to the chapel, 
 which is only open on Sundays for service. It has a 
 good groined roof. It is about 55 ft. long and 30 ft. 
 wide. Returning through the hall, the Middle, or Clock 
 Court is entered. It is 133 ft. by 91 ft. On the left is 
 seen the exterior of the hall. In the right is a colonnade, 
 by Wren, from which opens the King's Staircase, decorated 
 by Verrio. By it is reached the Guard Chamber, 67 ft. 
 long, 37 ft. wide, and 30 ft. high. The best picture is 
 the portrait of Queen Elizabeth's porter, by Zucchero. 
 The rest of the State apartments shown are here 
 enumerated in order, with the pictures best worth 
 observing : — First Presence Chamber, in which hang 
 the portraits of the Hampton Court Beauties, by Kneller, 
 eight in number, and of Queen Mary II., by Wisdng. 
 Also Margaret Lemon, by Vandyck ; Lord Hamilton, by 
 Mytens; and Peter the Great, by Kneller. Second 
 Presence Chamber, Charles I. on horseback, by Vandyck • 
 Philip lY. and Queen, by Vdasquez ; Family of Fordenone, 
 by himself, and some good Italian pictures, many of them 
 wrongly named. Audience Chamber, Triptych, on a 
 stand, L. van Leyden (?), Virgin and Child, by Faris 
 Fordone; Queen of Bohemia, by Honthorst ; portraits, by 
 Titian, all wrongly named. King's Drawing Eoom, Duke 
 of Lennox, by Yanwmer. King William's Bedroom, the 
 Windsor Castle Beauties, by Lely, removed here from 
 Windsor, including Nell Gwyn, Miss Hamilton, Duchess 
 of York, &c. Three small rooms are followed by the 
 Queen s Gallery, hung with tapestry. Queen's Bedroom,
 
 64 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 Queen Anne's state bed; portraits of James 1. and 
 Queen, by Vansomer ; St. Francis, by Guido ; Baptism of 
 Clirist, by Francia. Queen's Drawing Room, portraits of 
 George III. and family, by West. Queen's Audience 
 Chaml3er, Henry YIII. and family, by Bolhein, and Henry 
 Howard, Earl of Surrey, by same ; Anne of Denmark, by 
 Vansomer; and Queen Elizabeth in a fancy dress, by 
 L. de Heere. Dining Room, good portraits, by Gains- 
 horough and Sir Thomas Lawrence. Prince of Wales's 
 Presence Chamber, Adam and Eve, by Mahuse. Prince of 
 Wales's Drawing Room, Louis XYI. and Madame de Pom- 
 padour, both by Greuze. There are several smaller 
 rooms. On the S. side of the Fountain Court, round 
 which these State apartments range, is the Gallery, 
 in which were formerly hung the cartoons of Raphael, 
 It contains about 200 pictures of very various degrees 
 of merit. The following may be worth mention : 
 — Mary Queen of Scots, by ZuccJiero; Henry YITL, by 
 Holhein (y) ; Lady Taux, a genuine Holhein ; several 
 portraits of Queen Elizabeth, by different artists ; a 
 portrait by liapJiael, and several portraits by Cloiiet. On 
 the W. side of the same Fountain Court is another 
 Gallery, in which hang the designs by Mantegna for a 
 suite of tapestry representing the Triumphs of Caesar. 
 They are nine in number, much injured by injudicious 
 " restoration," and hung in a bad light, but they are well 
 w^orth study. They are painted on linen, and are each 
 9 ft. square. 
 
 Hanwell, Middlesex, "W. 
 
 7 ^m. from Paddingfon Stn. Pop. 3766. 
 
 Called Hanewelle, D.S. Given by Edward the Con- 
 fessor to Westminster Abbey. Now part of the endow^- 
 ment of See of London. The church (St. Mary's) is 
 modern. It contains no monuments of interest, J3ut in 
 the old church was buried, 1786, the benevolent Jonas 
 Hanway, the founder of the Marine Society and other 
 institutions, and famous for his umbrella. His monu- 
 ment is in Westminster Abbey. The living is a rectory, 
 worth 436/. gross, and in the patronage of the Bishop of 
 London. The register begins in 1580. 
 
 Hanw^ell is best known for the County Lunatic Asylum, 
 in most respects similar to that at Colney Hatch (see 
 Friern Barnet), but really in the parish of Norwood (see).
 
 HARROW. 
 
 65 
 
 Harrow-011-th.e Hill, Middlesex. 
 
 lli'/7i. from Euston Square Stn. Pop. 4997. 
 
 History. — The name seems to mean the "church on 
 the hill," D.S., Herges. The manor belonged to the 
 Archbishop of Canterbury from the eighth century. 
 Henry Till, gave it to Sir Edward North. It now 
 behjngs to Lord Xorthwick. The school was founded in 
 1571 by John Lyon, yeoman, of Preston, in Harrow parish. 
 
 The Church (St. Mary's) is well situated, and con- 
 spicuous for miles round. There is a Norman arch imder 
 the tower. The nave is E.E., the aisles Perp., the 
 chancel Dec. It was much altered and enlarged a few- 
 years ago. There are eleven brasses, among them one to 
 John Lyon, d. 1592, founder of the school. It is on the 
 N. side of the nave. The living is a vicarage, in the srift 
 of Lord Northwick, and worth 900/. a year, gross. The 
 register only dates from 1653. 
 
 Near the church door is an altar tomb, name lost, on 
 which Byron used to sit when a schoolboy. It is 
 mentioned in his poems and in his correspondence. The 
 view from this spot is particularly fine, including ^Vindsor 
 Castle, the Crystal Palace. Leith Hill, and the Kent and 
 Essex hills. The lich-gate to the churchyard is modern. 
 
 The school buildings are scattered, but chiefiy lie near 
 the church. The school house was built in 1595, the 
 school-room being 50 ft. by .1 ft. The chapel, erected in 
 1F57 by Sir G. G. Scott, is at the N. end of the High 
 Street, near the beginning of the descent. It is of 
 Erench Gothic, and looks incongruous, but is handsome. 
 The stained glass forms a memorial to the twenty-one 
 ofiBcers educated here who fell in the Crimea. The 
 crypt is also worth seeing. Near, is the Taughan 
 Library, built in 1863 as a testimonial to the head master 
 of that name. It harmonizes with the chapel, and is 
 fanciful, not to say undignified in style, but extremely 
 convenient. A new speech-room has just been finished 
 at the opposite side of the road, and was first used this 
 year (1877). 
 
 Among the eminent men brought up at Harrow were 
 three Premiers — Perceval, Peel, and Palmerston, also 
 Sheridan and Byron. There are now about 500 boys, of 
 whom 32 are on the foundation. 
 
 There are district churches at Eoxeth, GreerJiill, and
 
 66 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 Sudhury, all close to Harrow. Many pleasant walks may- 
 be taken in the neigli]jourliood. The parish, which is very 
 large, includes Bentley Priory (see Sfanmore) and Harrow 
 WeuM, the latter a group of villas beyond the railway. 
 The station is a mile from the town. 
 
 Hayes, Kent. 
 
 V^m.froni Bromley Stn., lOlm.from Victoria Stn. Pop, 622. 
 
 A village south from Bromley, by a pleasant road. 
 The church (St. Mary's) is partly ancient, but has been 
 utterly "restored," and presents now few features of 
 interest. There are five brasses. AVilliam Pitt, " son of 
 the Bon. Wm. and Lady Esther Pitt," was baptized here 
 1759. Observe the banners used at the funeral of Lord 
 Chatham. The register commences in 1539. The rectory 
 is worth 220Z., and is in the gift of the Archbishop. 
 
 Hayes is interesting from its association with the career 
 of the two Pitts. There are good views to be had from 
 the common of 220 acres. The gardens of Hayes Place 
 were laid out by Lord Chatham, d. here 1779, and, as well 
 as his house, have been little altered. *S>e some fine oaks 
 in the lane from the Common to West Wickham. 
 
 Hendon, Middlesex. 
 
 Qm.from St. Pancras Stn. Pop. 6972. 
 
 Hendon (A.S.. Eenn-dnnc, the "high hill") belonged to 
 the Abbey of Westminster until the Dissolution. It is 
 now in private hands, having in 1790 belonged to David 
 Garrick. The church (St. Mary's) is on the top of the hill, 
 left of the road to Finchley. The ivy g-ives it a pictur- 
 esque look, but it has few features of interest. There is 
 one brass and several large monuments, and a tablet, by 
 Flaxman, to Chas. Colmore, d. 1795. The view from the 
 churchyard rivals that from Harrow. The vicarage is 
 worth 1300?. a year gross, and is in the gift of the Duke 
 of Portland. The register dates from 1653. 
 
 There are many pleasant walks in the neighbourhood, 
 which is well timbered and undulating, and the hamlet 
 of G older s Green is a favourite resort on holidays. 
 
 Heston, Middlesex. 
 
 Ibn.from Southall St7i., dim. from Paddington Stn. 
 Pop. 8432. 
 A quiet country village, although the parish includes 
 Hounslow and other populous places enumerated below.
 
 HESTON. 67 
 
 It was early noted for its fertility, and while the manor 
 belonged to the Crown, wheat from Heston was used for 
 the royal bread. Queen Elizabeth gave it to Sir T. 
 Gresham, who already owned the sub-manor of Osterhy 
 adjoining. He built a fine house, enclosed the park, 
 and was visited by Queen Elizabeth in 1578, when it is 
 narrated that she criticised the size of one of the courts, 
 and that in the night Sir Thomas had a wall built to 
 divide it. For the jokes made on this occasion, see 
 Fullers "Worthies." Gresham's house was succeeded by 
 another, built for Eobert Child, the banker of Temple 
 Bar, to whose descendant, the present head of the firm. 
 Lord Jersey, Osterley now belongs. Eobert Adam was 
 the architect. A pleasant path across the fields, E. about 
 |m., leads to the house, which is built of red brick on the 
 old foundations, and has the original Elizabethan turrets. 
 A portico, Ionic, occupies the space formerly an open 
 court. The hall contains a fine Buhens, the A];jotheosis 
 of William the Silent. The gallery, 130 ft. long, and the 
 State rooms contain many good pictures, including family 
 portraits. In the library are eleven books printed by 
 Caxton. The park stretches N.E. towards the Great 
 Western Eailway, from which the fine trees are very visible. 
 
 Heston Church (St. Leonard's) lies E. of the Green, the 
 churchyard being entered by an ancient lich-gate of oak. 
 Observe the method used for keeping the gate shut. The 
 church is modern, and uninteresting, except the tower, 
 the rest of the building having been destroyed in 1865. 
 There are two brasses ; one to Mordecai Bownell and 
 wife, 1581, is curious. The living is a vicarage worth 
 680/. per annum, gross, in the gift of the Bishop. The 
 register begins in 1560. 
 
 Hounslow (9m. from Hyde Park Corner. Stn. L.S.W.E.) 
 is partly in this parish and partly in Isleworth. The 
 name has not been satisfactorily explained. In D.S. it is 
 Eoneslaw. There is little or nothing to see in the town, 
 which owed its former importance to its position on the 
 western road. The church (Holy Trinity) was the chapel 
 of a priory, but rebuilt in 1835. 
 
 W. from Hounslow, stretching for 5m. along the road, 
 was Hounslow Heath, famous in the annals of highway 
 robbery. Seventy years ago there were many gibbets on 
 both sides of the road. Lord North was attacked, and 
 his postilion wounded, in 1774. Tavo years later, Mr. 
 Pitt's secretary, Mr. Korthall, was killed in the presence 
 
 F 2
 
 68 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 of his wife and child. Lord Berkeley shot an assailant 
 about the same period. The heath was also the scene of 
 events more purely historical. Here, in 1267, the " Bed 
 Earl" of Gloucester encamped, as did Charles I. 375 years 
 later. Fairfax made it a general rendezvous in 1647. 
 In 1686 James II. had an army encamped here, and in the 
 following year heard the soldiers cheer for the acquittal 
 of the bishops. In 1793 the cavalry barracks were built, 
 and the Heath for the most part enclosed. The barracks 
 are on tLe N. side of the road, about Im. from the centre 
 of the town, and on the S. is their exercise ground of 300 
 acres. About 600 men are usually quartered here. The 
 country round Hounslow is flat and uninteresting to the 
 last degree, and offers few attractions to the pedestrian. 
 
 High. Beecli, Essex. See Chingfoed. 
 Highgate Middlesex. 
 
 Hm.from King''s Cross Stn. {For Pop., see Hornsey.') 
 The name is derived from the toll-gate which formeily 
 stood where the N. road entered the park of the Bishop. 
 The "Gate-house " tavern still marks the site. The hill is 
 406 feet above the river, and like the neighbouring, but 
 higher hill of Hampstead, lias been a favourite site for 
 villas from an early period. Highgate has no open heath, 
 but the village green is large, and the views from the 
 summit of the ascent are very fine, and well worth the 
 fatigue of a walk. 
 
 The manor is part of that of Hornsey {see), and the 
 parish is only a district. The chapel at the " Gate-house " 
 was an ancient hermitage granted to Sir Eoger Cholmeley, 
 Chief Justice under Edward VI., who built the Grammar 
 School adjoining ; it served for the whole town till 1833, 
 when the new church (St. Michael's) was built. The 
 school chapel is now rebuilt in French Gothic, from the 
 gift of Mr. Crawley. It includes the ancient site, and 
 covers the vault in which are interred the remains of 
 S. T. Coleridge, the poet, d. 1834, and several members 
 of his family. St. Michael's is a little to the S., opposite 
 the Grove. The spire is visible for many miles. There 
 are several district churches and chapels, one (congre- 
 gational) being close to St. Michael's. 
 
 On the right of the road from Kentish Town is the 
 Cemetery, a large space, consecrated in 1639, and occu-
 
 HIGHGATE. 69 
 
 pying the site of the Mansion House and its gTounds. 
 Opposite, on the left, was Dorchester House. On the 
 site were built three houses in the Grove : in the third 
 Coleridge died. The Highgate Ponds are lower down 
 the hill, on the same side, and beyond, further W., is 
 Caen Wood. (Vee Hampstead.) 
 
 On the road from Holloway, which is a little to the E. 
 of Kentish Town, the greater number of the Highgate 
 villas are situated. At the foot of the hill are the 
 Whittington Almshouses, built in 1822 by the Mercers' 
 Company from surplus funds from AVhit ting-ton's estate. 
 Opposite is Whittington's Stone (near the corner of 
 Salisbury Eoad), now part of a lamp-post. It was 
 originally part of a wayside cross, and here the future 
 Mayor heard Bow bells invite him to return. On the 
 right is Holly Tillage, and above it Holly Lodge, the 
 residence of the Baroness Burdett-Coutts. Opposite the 
 entrance on the left is the house of the late Judge Payne. 
 Ascending the hill on the left is the " Fox and Crown," an 
 inn whose landlord,now dead, stopped the runaway horses 
 in the Queen's carriage in 1837. Above it is a nursery, 
 worth visiting for the view, and higher up, near the 
 church, is an old brick house in which died Dr. Sacheve- 
 rell, 1724. Several other "Queen Anne" houses are in 
 the same quarter. Among houses which have disappeared 
 was one in which Lord Bacon died, 1626. Cromwell 
 House is said to have been built for Ireton. It is now a 
 Convalescent Hospital for Children. Lauderdale House is 
 the Convalescent Hospital for St. Bartholomew's. Here 
 Xell G Wynne is said to have lived, and 30 years ago Lord 
 Westbury. Fairseat House is the residence of Sir Sidney 
 Waterlow, to whose benevolence the two convalescent 
 homes are owed. Caen Wood Towers lies to the W. It 
 was built by Mr. Brooke in 1872, on the site of Duflferin 
 Lodge. The Romanists have a colony at Highgate, and 
 their monastery, from the designs of Mr. Tasker, promises 
 to be a conspicuous, if ugly, object in future views. The 
 Archway Pioad should be seen, and especially the view 
 through the arch, formerly famous. It was constructed 
 to avoid the hill in 1810. A tunnel was projected but 
 failed. 
 
 The walks about Highgate are many and interesting, 
 but the views are every day more and more built up. 
 (:See Walking Excursions, p. 119.)
 
 70 BOUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 Hornsey, Middlesex. 
 
 4:771. from King's Cross Stn. Pop., including Eighgate, 19,357. 
 
 Highgate is only a hamlet of Hornsey (anciently 
 Ilftrirtgheff or Hariri gey) which lies in the valley N.E. 
 The manor has belonged to the Bishops of London from 
 time immemorial, the site of their hunting lodge and 
 pai'k being still marked by Bishop's Wood. The park 
 was very large, extending into the great Middlesex forest, 
 and the South Wood, Caen Wood, Wood Lane, Muswell 
 Hill, and other places and names recall its existence. 
 The district is still well timbered, lying as it does be- 
 tween the Alexandra Park, the absurdly mis-named 
 *'Finsbui'y Park," formerly Hornsey Wood, and the 
 woods on Highgate Hill. 
 
 The Church (St. Mary's) is mainly Gothic, of the year 
 1833, but the tower is of the 15th century, and is covered 
 with ivy. There are a good many monuments, none of 
 note, except a tablet to S. Rogers, the poet, buried in the 
 churchyard 1855. The rectory is in the Bishop's gift, 
 and is worth 430/. a year. The register begins in 1653. 
 The churchyard is shaded with tall trees, and it would be 
 hard to find a fitter resting place so near London for a 
 poet. Eogers' vault, surmounted by a high altar tomb, 
 is at the N.E. corner. A daughter of Thomas Moore 
 was buried near in 1817. There are two brasses and an 
 incised slab in the church. 
 
 W. from the church, a pleasant lane leads to MusiaeU 
 Hill. The Alexandra Palace, opened 1875, need not be 
 here described, except to say that while the building is 
 hideous, the grounds are pleasant, and promise, in course 
 of time, to be shady. There is a railway station at the 
 entrance of the grounds. The vrhole hill has been of 
 late covered with villas, but there are many fine trees 
 remaining from the time when Dr. Johnson here visited 
 his friend, Topham Beau clerk. A cottage at the foot of 
 the hill was the residence of Thomas Moore, and pre- 
 viously of the famous Abraham Newland, whose signa- 
 ture on bank notes made his name widely known. A 
 church (St. James's) was built in 1842, the present Bishop 
 of London, John Jackson, being the first incumbent. 
 E. from Hornsey Church runs the Tottenham Lane to 
 Mount Pleasant, a hill 220 ft. high, from which a good 
 view across the Lea, towards Epping Forest, may be
 
 ILFOED. 
 
 71 
 
 had. A path leads to Finsbury Park, on the site of 
 Homsey Wood and Wood House, the resort of duellists, 
 and the predecessor of Hurlingham for the noble sport 
 of pigeon shooting. Some forty years hence Finsbury 
 Park may be pleasant for its shady walks. At present it 
 competes unfavourably with many of the neighbouring 
 lanes. At Crouch End, about fm. X.W., there is a new 
 church (Christ Church), and though the open ground is 
 being rapidly covered, a field path still leads to the 
 summit of a hill whence a good view may be obtained. 
 
 nford, Great, Essex. 
 
 l\m.frora Liverpool St. Stn. Fop. 5020. 
 
 This parish was formerly in that of Barking, but was 
 made a district parish in 1830, when the chiu'ch was built. 
 It is now a vicarage in the gift of All Souls', Oxford, 
 and worth 500/. a year, gross. There was here a ford, 
 the lU, or perhaps the old, ford, over the Eoding, on the 
 great Eoman Eoad to Colchester. X. of the road is an 
 almshouse, red brick and partly ancient, founded in the 
 reig-n of King Stephen by an abbess of Barking. 
 
 There are several handsome seats in the neighbourhoo<l. 
 Valentines, Im. N., the residence of Dr. Ingleby, a well- 
 kno^^^l Shakesperian scholar, was built by James Chad- 
 wick, son-in law of Archbishop Tillotson ; it is a good 
 example of the style of that period, and surrounded with 
 extensive and beautiful gardens, in which the Bishop's' 
 Walk is still shown. There is some carving by Grinling 
 Gibbons in the house. 
 
 The Ilford brickfields are S. of the road, and are famous 
 for the number of fossil skeletons of extinct mammals 
 they have yielded. {See p. 9.) 
 
 Ilford, Little, Essex. 
 
 Ira. from Ilford Stn. Urn. from Liverpool St. Stn. Pop), 675. 
 This has always been an independent parish, but lies 
 close to Great Ilford. The village is Jm. S. of the 
 London Pioad. The church was rebuilt some years ago, 
 and is uninteresting, but contains some good monuments 
 and two brasses. The living is a rectory worth 404/., 
 gross, per annum. The register begins in 1539. The City 
 of London Cemetery lies on the X. of the road. It contains 
 the remains found in the churches recently destroyed in 
 the City. Opposite the cemetery is the county gaol.
 
 72 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 Isleworth, Middlesex. 
 
 12m. from Waterloo, ly Scoring Grove Stn. Pop. 19,227. 
 
 This name has puzzled and baffled inquirers. It was 
 anciently written (D.S.) Gistelworde and Thistleworth. 
 
 History. — Isleworth belonged to Earl Algar before 
 the Conquest, and afterwards to Walter of St. AValeric, 
 who also owned Hampton. In 1414 Henry V. founded 
 a Bridgetine convent for nuns, giving it the name of 
 Sion, and placing it at Isleworth, where a few years later 
 a fine house was built, Henry V. giving them the 
 manor. There were 60 nuns, 17 priests, and various 
 other inmates of both sexes. The commissioners at the 
 Dissolution gave the place a very bad character. The 
 house was kept in the king's hands ; and here, in 
 1541, Katharine Howard was detained before her trial 
 and execution. Edward YI. gave it to the Protector, 
 Somerset. Queen Mary restored those nuns who sur- 
 vived and wxre unmarried. Queen Elizabeth suppressed 
 the nunnery a second time, when the society went to 
 Portugal, where it remained till lately, but in 1861 the 
 twelve English nuns surviving were received into a 
 modern establishment in Dorsetshire. Sion House was 
 given by James I. to Henry Percy, Earl of Northum- 
 berland, and has descended through heiresses to the 
 present proprietor, the Duke of Korthumberland. 
 
 The Church (All Saints') stands near the entrance 
 to Sion, on the river terrace. The town is ancient. 
 The body of the church was erected in 1705, and has 
 been much altered and improved of late years. It con- 
 tains many monuments and five brasses, four of which are 
 kept in the vestry. The register, which begins in 1566, 
 contains, among other interesting entries, that of the bap- 
 tism of Dorothy Sydney, 1617, celebrated by Waller als 
 Sacharissa. She was the granddaughter of the Earl of 
 Northumberland, and was born while he Avas a prisoner in 
 the Tower, In this church were married, 1679, the Earl 
 of Ogle and Lady Elizabeth Percy, the heiress of the last 
 Earl. She became a widow before the end of the year, re- 
 married Mr, Thynne, of Longleat, who was murdered in 
 1682 ; and lastly, Charles Seymour, Duke of Somerset, by 
 whom she had an only daughter, the ancestress, by Sir 
 Hugh Smithson, of the present Duke of Northumberland. 
 The living is a vicarage worth, gross, 702/. a year, and 
 is in the gift of the Dean and Chapter of Windsor.
 
 ISLEWORTH. 
 
 73 
 
 At Isleworth the Thames flows nearly from S. to N., 
 Kew Gardens being on the right or E. bank. Facing 
 the gardens, about half way, stands Sion House, in 
 grounds which stretch for a mile along the river. There 
 are few places in which the Thames is seen to gi'eater 
 advantage, there being woods and fair gi-een lawns on 
 eitlier hand, the ivy-mantled tower of Isleworth Chui'ch, 
 the Pagoda in Kew Gardens, and the picturesque, if 
 anomalous, architecture of Sion, crowned by the lion, 
 which so long did duty on the summit of Northumber- 
 land House, Charing Cross, coming successively into 
 view as we descend the stream. 
 
 Sion House is not usually shown to the public. Mr. 
 Thome mentions the principal rooms — as the great 
 hall, 66 by 31 ft. : the vestibule, 3i by 30, with twelve 
 columns of "verd antique," which cost 1000?. each ; the 
 drawing room, 44 by 21 ; the dining room, 62 by 21, 
 with many family portraits by Eeynolds and Lawrence : 
 and several smaller apartments containing pictures, of 
 which the most remarkable are Landseers Deer Stalkers, 
 a portrait by Albert Lartr, and works by other early 
 German masters. There is also a gallery, extending 
 along the whole river front, 135 by 14 feet, which contains 
 many objects of art. The grounds were laid out by 
 " Capability " Brown ; there is a great conservatory, 
 remarkable for the successful growth of the Victoria 
 Eefiia, a giant water lily. The Park is crossed by a 
 public footway fi'om Brentford End to Isleworth. 
 
 The principal seats in the neighbourhood may be briefly 
 enumerated. Wortun Manor is on the right, about half 
 way to Hounslow Stn. \Vyke House, which, as well as 
 "Worton, belonged to the monastery, is close to the 
 entrance of Osterley (see Heston). Sion Hill, on the 
 right of the road from Brentford to Hounslow, is exactly 
 opposite the Park. The house has been pulled down, 
 and the Park is an outlying appendage to Sion House. 
 Beyond Isleworth, and opposite the S. end of Kew 
 Gardens, is Isleworth House, from which there are beau- 
 tiful views towards Eichmond and into the gardens, 
 where a vista was cut by order of Vi'illiam IT. for the 
 benefit of a former occupant. The Eoyal Xaval Female 
 School is in a fine house at St. Margaret's (Stn.), and 
 there are many villas of more or less importance.
 
 74 BOUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 Keston, Kent. 
 
 Sifn.from Bromley Stn., 12 jm. from Charing Cross Stn. 
 Pop. 111. 
 
 Keston closely adjoins Hayes (see), and, like it, is cliiefly 
 interesting, apart from the beauty of the country, on 
 account of its containing a residence of the great Pitt. 
 The church is very small, has a late Norman chancel 
 arch, interesting and picturesque, being unrestored. 
 There are no monuments of interest, but the tomb of 
 Lord Cranworth, d. 1868, is in the churchyard. The 
 living is a rectory, gross value 300/. a year, in the gift of 
 the Archbishop. 
 
 On the Common, which forms a continuation to that of 
 Hayes, but is more diversified, are some depressions and 
 ponds in which the river Eavensbourne takes its rise. 
 The highest point is Caesar's Camp, the site oi Noviornagus. 
 Eoman remains have frequently been found. The area of 
 the embankments is about 100 acres. On a portion stands 
 Holwood House, the successor of a mansion which was 
 the favourite residence of William Pitt. In the Park a 
 seat has been placed under a tree, where Wilberforce and 
 he discussed the abolition of the slave trade. A. public 
 footway passes the seat. The entrance is by a stile oppo- 
 site Caesar s Well on the Common. Pitt sold Holwood in 
 1802, and twenty years later the house was pulled down. 
 
 Kew, Surrey. 
 
 dim. from Waterloo Stn. Pop. 1033. 
 
 There is a Station at Kew Gardens, which may be 
 reached from Waterloo, via Kensington. 
 
 The fame of Kew seems to have begun early. Its name 
 first occurs in a roll of temp. Henry YII., when it is 
 called Kay-hoiigh, which would mean the wood or hough 
 by the quay. In 1769 it was made a distinct parish. It 
 is at present united with Petersham, the vicarage being 
 reckoned worth 520/,, gross, in the gift of the Crown. 
 The church was built in 1714, and is a good example of 
 the brickwork of the day. It stands close to Kew Green, 
 at the N. end of the Gardens, and near the Palace. The 
 organ, said to be Handel's, formerly belonged to George 
 III. The late Duke of Cambridge was buried in the 
 vaults, 1850. In the churchyard is the grave of Gains-
 
 KEW. 
 
 75 
 
 borough, the painter, d. 1788, and of his friend Kirby, 
 d. 1774, father of the famous Mrs. Trimmer. 
 
 Kew House, a seat of the Capel family, was rented 
 by Frederick, Prince of Wales, and was occupied by his 
 widow, the Princess Dowager, who in 1760 established 
 the Botanic Gardens. The Palace, which stands on the 
 right, immediately on entering the Gardens, was a favourite 
 residence of her son George III., and of Queen Charlotte, 
 who died here in 1818. It is now used in suites of apart- 
 ments, like Hampton Court. On the Green, W. side, is 
 Cambridge Cottage, the residence of the Duchess of 
 Cambridge. Kew House, in which George III. during 
 his tirst insanity lived with the brothers Willis, the 
 Quaker doctors, was pulled down in 1802. In the Park 
 the same king pastured a flock of Merino sheep. He 
 added greatly to the foreign plants collected by his 
 mother, and continued William Alton, her gardener, the 
 eminent botanist, in his employment. The collections of 
 Capt, Cook and Sir Joseph Banks added to the treasures ; 
 and though after the king's death the garden was much 
 neglected, it was made a national institution in 1840, 
 when Sir W. Hooker was appointed director. He has 
 been succeeded by the present director, his son. Dr. J. D. 
 Hooker, and the gardens have been enlarged from 11 
 acres to 75. 
 
 Kew Gardens, which are open free to the public on 
 week-days from 1 till dusk, and on Sundays from 2, lie 
 partly within the parish of Eichmond. The following 
 list of the chief objects of interest does not pretend to 
 completeness. The botanical student will require one of 
 the local guide books, which are to be obtained at a 
 ■moderate price in the entrance lodge — the most useful 
 being a map with an index of remarkable plants. Observe 
 on right the Aroideous House, filled with tropical Arums; 
 also on the right at the end of the broad walk, the Great 
 Palm House, 362 ft. long, containing 45,000 square feet 
 of glass. Close by is the Water Lily House, and N.W. of 
 a mound, crowned by the Temple of ^olus, is a range of 
 houses, one of which contains the Victoria Begia. The 
 Cactus, or Succulent House, is well worth a visit, as is 
 the Tropical Fern House, which may serve to give the 
 visitor an idea what the surface of England was like 
 while our coal measures were being formed. The museum 
 consists of four buildings, standing some distance apart.
 
 76 
 
 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 No. 3 is the old Orangery, and contains specimens of 
 timber. No. 4 is the largest Herbarium in the world, and 
 can only be seen on special application. 
 
 The Pleasure Grounds, formerly the Park, are only 
 divided by a wire fence from the gardens. They are 
 beautifully laid out, and also contain conservatories, one 
 of them, the Temperate House, designed to hold the 
 trees sent from Australia, and other countries with tempe- 
 rate climates. The flagstaff, near the entrance from the 
 gardens, left, is the largest single spar in existence. It 
 is the trunk of a pine from Britissh Columbia, and is 
 159 ft. in height. The Pagoda is 163 ft. high. The public 
 were formerly admitted to see the view^ from the tenth 
 story, but it has been closed of late owing to the in- 
 veterate habit indulged by the visitors of cutting their 
 names on the walls. 
 
 Kingston, Surrey. 
 
 127n.from Waterloo Stn. Pop. 15,378. 
 
 The best ways to approach Kingston are (1) by walk- 
 ing from Eichmond station along the bank of the river, 
 or (2) over Eichmond Hill, through the Park, from the 
 "Star and Garter," to the Ladder Stile, and past Coombe 
 Wood, Kingston Hill, and Norbiton, along the high road. 
 The least interesting way is (3) by the S. W.E. to Surbiton 
 Stn., Im. S. of the town. 
 
 History. — The Cingestune^ as it is called in the English 
 Chronicle, owes its early importance to the ford, after- 
 wards to the bridge, which here crossed the Thames into 
 Middlesex. It was the ford nearest London, and seems, 
 from the discoveries of ancient remains, to have been held 
 by the Eomans. The authentic notices of Kingston, 
 (after a charter of King Egbert in ^38) commence with 
 the coronation of Athelstan, which took place here in 
 924. The destruction of Winchester by the Danes may 
 have increased the importance of Kingston, and the fol- 
 lowing kings were crowned here : — Edmund, 940 ; Edred, 
 946 ; Edgar, 959 ; Edward the Martyr, 975 ; Ethelred II., 
 978 ; Edmund Ironside, 1016. An earlier king, Edward 
 the Elder, 900, is sometimes named in this list, but with- 
 out authority from the Chronicle ; but probably Edwy, 
 955, sliould be added. If so, Kingston was the scene of 
 Dunstan's demonstration against the wife of Edwy, the 
 beautiful Elgiva. The " hallowing " of the kings probably
 
 KINGSTON. 
 
 77 
 
 took place in tlie church, where a Xorman (South) chapel 
 was shown as the actual place until the middle of the 
 last century, when it was destroyed in one of the periodi- 
 cal " restorations." The coronation stone, traditionally 
 a seat, is noticed below. The town must have been 
 greatly reduced before the Conquest, as, though it con- 
 tinued to belong to the king, who had probably a house 
 or " castle " here, it was only (D.S.) valued at 30/., but 
 there were 5 mills, arable land for 32 ploughs, 40 acres 
 of meadow, and 3 fisheries. King John gave the town 
 its charter. Henry III. took the castle from Gilbert, 
 Earl of Gloucester, in 1264. Katherine of Aragon rested 
 a night at Kingston on her way from Portsmouth, 
 1501. Sir' Thomas AVyat, 1554, crossed the Thames here 
 after a short battle, and marched on London by Brent- 
 ford. In July, 1648, the last fight between Eoyalists and 
 Eoundheads took place here, when Lord Holland and 
 the Duke of Buckingham were defeated in Surbiton Lane. 
 Buckingham escaped, his brother, Francis Tilliers, was 
 killed, and Holland was afterwards taken and beheaded. 
 The return of the kings to the neighbourhood of King- 
 ston, when Henry Till, occupied Hampton on the oppo- 
 site bank, increased its opulence. Its charter was several 
 times confirmed by successive kings down to James II. 
 It has still a mayor, 8 aldermen, and 24 councillors, and 
 is, with Guildford, reckoned a county town, but has not 
 returned members to Parliament since the reign of 
 Edward III. 
 
 The Chuech (All Saints') is large, but having been re- 
 peatedly "restored," has few other claims on our attention. 
 There are several interesting tombs and brasses. Observe, 
 alabaster efSgy of Sir A. Benn, Eecorder of London, d. 
 1H18. Monument, by Chantrey, of Lady Liverpool, d. 1821, 
 and by his pupil, Ternough, of H. Davidson, d. 1827. 
 There are four brasses ; the one in the chancel is inter- 
 esting as being the monument of E. Skeme, whose wife 
 was daughter of Alice Perrers, mistress of Edward III. 
 Another is to Marke Snellinge, nine times bailiff of 
 Kingston, d. 1633 : and there is an epitaph to the ten 
 children of Edward Stanton — "seven sons and daughters 
 three, Job's number right," who was minister under the 
 Commonwealth. 
 
 The living is a vicarage, worth 500/. per annum, and in 
 the gift of King's College, Cambridge. There are now
 
 78 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 six other clmrchos in the old parish. The Congregational, 
 Romanist, and Wesleyan chapels are all handsome build- 
 ings. 
 
 There is a flourishing Grammar School north of the 
 town, established hy Queen Elizabeth, on an older founda- 
 ion. Here Gibbon, the historian, was educated, 1746-7. 
 The old chapel is used as a school-room. 
 
 The Townhall is a conspicuous building in the market- 
 place, erected 1840. The statue of Queen Anne is from 
 an older hall. At the other end of the Market Place is 
 the Court House, built ISll, and before it is the stone 
 (see above) on which the English Ivings were crowned. 
 It formerly stood at the church. It is now fixed in a 
 gi'anite base, and surrounded by a railing, designed by 
 Mr. Davis; the seven sides of the base are inscribed with 
 the names and dates of the kings crowned here, a silver 
 penny of each being let into the stone. 
 
 Korhiton, a hamlet of Kingston, but now a continuous 
 street, is X. of the town. Cleeve's xVlmshouses, founded 
 1668, and the Cambridge Asylum for Soldiers' Widows, 
 1851, are at Xorbiton. 
 
 Canhury, formerly Canonbury, adjoins Xorbiton on the 
 "W". The barn of the canons of Merton Priory should be 
 seen. It is 90 ft. square, with four entrances, and a 
 timber roof. 
 
 Sii7-bifon presents few features of interest. The names 
 Surbiton and Xorbiton are contractions of South and 
 North Barton — i.e. farm yard. 
 
 Coomle is 2m. E., on the road to or from Eobin Hood 
 Gate, up Kingston Hill. (See Richmond.) Coombe Wood 
 is extensive, reaching almost to Wimbledon Common, and 
 affording delightful walks. It was a great haunt of 
 highwaymen. At Coombe House, which is rented by 
 Lorf- ^\^^r^va^^^ s-'x.ri the Dukc of Cambridge, Lord 
 Liverpool, Prime Minister, d. 1828. A pleasant walk 
 may be taken through Coombe Wood to Wimbledon Com- 
 mon (see). 
 
 Ham, l|m. X. of Kingston, is within the parish, except 
 Ham House, which is in Petersham (ste). The walk 
 to Ham Common is very pleasant, and may be taken 
 either along the towing path of the Thames, or by the 
 high road. Observe, after entering the Common, the 
 avenue of elms, which leads up to the gate of Ham 
 House. One of them suggested Hood's poem, ' The Elm
 
 KINGSBURY. 79 
 
 Tree.' The manor of Ham belonged to the celebrated 
 Lord Level, killed at Bosworth. It afterwards belonged 
 successively to Anne of Cleves, Henry Prince of Wales, 
 and Prince Charles, afterwards Charles I. In 1671 it 
 was granted to Lady Dysart, who already owned the 
 adjoining house. Gay's "Kitty," Duchess of Queens- 
 berry, lived in a house on Ham Common, and a summer 
 house near the river is still ^hown as Gay's. The church 
 is modern. (For further notices see under F tier sham.) 
 
 Kingsbury, Middlesex. 
 
 hm.from Welsh Harp Stn. Qra.from St. Pancras Stn. 
 Fop. 622. 
 
 Part of Kingsbuiy early belonged to Westminster 
 Abbey, to which it was given by Edward the Confessor. 
 Previously, as its name denotes, it had belonged to the 
 Crown. But the larger portion of the land Avas divided 
 among various owners, and All Soul's College is the 
 chief proprietor. 
 
 The Chuech (St. Andrew's) appears to stand in a fort, 
 perhaps of British origin, but it has been called Eoman. 
 It may give the name to the parish. The church iK very 
 curious, containing vestiges of Saxon masonry, Eoman 
 bricks, and other rare features. The windows are Perp. 
 There are several monuments of the 17th century, and 
 one brass to John Shephard, his two Maves, and his 18 
 children. The register only dates from 1733. The living 
 is a vicarage with a nominal income, in the gift of the 
 Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's. 
 
 There is considerable variety and beauty in the scenery 
 of Kingsbury. The Lake, a reservoir formed in 1838 to 
 supply the Eegent Canal, is consj)icuous in the N.W. 
 view from Hampstead Heath, and covers the bottom of a 
 valley lim. in leng-th along the course of the Brent river. 
 It swarms with water-fowl, attracted no doubt by the 
 abundance of fish — pike, roach, perch, and carp. Leave 
 to fish may be obtained fi'om the landlord of the " Old 
 Welsh Harp." Day tickets are Is. and 2s. 6d. 
 
 The village is at the S.W. end of the Lake. Im. N. is 
 Kingsbury Green, from which a lane leads to Edgware 
 Eoad at the Hyde. There are good views on the way at 
 several points right and left.
 
 80 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 Lee, Kent. 
 
 Ihn.from Charing Cross Stn. Pop. 10,493. 
 This pleasantly - situated suburb contains little of 
 interest for the tourist or excursionist. Situated between 
 Blackheath and Eltham, it is entirely covered with villas 
 and roads of houses of the better class, none of them 
 ancient or in any way remarkable. The church (St. 
 Margaret's) was rebuilt in 1840,but becoming too small for 
 the increasing population, has been abandoned for a new 
 site, on which is a handsome edifice in the Dec. style, 
 with a lofty spire. Tn the old churchyard, which is well 
 kept, is buried Halley, the astronomer, d. 1742. There are 
 two brasses of the 16th century. The living is a rectory, 
 nominally worth 550/. a year, in the gift of the Lord 
 Chancellor. The manor was one of those given by 
 William I. to Bishop Odo, but has been in the hands of 
 owners of many different families. 
 
 Lewisham, Kent. 
 
 6m. from Charing Cross Stn. Pop. 36,525. 
 
 Adjoins Lee on the S.W., and is, like it, almost covered 
 with villas. 
 
 The Ckukch (St. Mary's) was built about 100 years 
 ago, and is not without interest as an example of the so- 
 called classical style. It contains several monuments, 
 including a brass (mutilated) to George Hattecliflf, 1514; a 
 relievo to Mary Lushingion, 1. 1797, by Flaxman ; and a 
 relievo by Banks, to Mrs. Petrie, d. 1T91. The living is 
 worth 1113/. a year, and is a vicarage in private gift. At 
 least a dozen new churches are in various parts of the 
 parish. The manor of Lewisham belonged to the Abbey of 
 St. Peter at Ghent, which had a priory here. Thomas, Lord 
 Seymour, husband of Queen Katherine Parr, held it till 
 his execution, 1549, when it was given to John Dudley, 
 Duke of Korthumberland, beheaded 1553. and after some 
 further changes became the property of Admiral Legge, 
 whose descendant. Lord Dartmouth, is the present owner. 
 His eldest son is styled Lord Lewisham. There are 
 several almshouses in the parish, among which Colfe's 
 are the chief. Colfe's Grammar School was endowed by 
 will in 1656, the Leathersellers' Company being the 
 trustees. 
 
 In the parish are Ilushey Green, Catford, and other
 
 LOUGHTON. 81 
 
 hamlets chiefly situated along the high road to Becken- 
 ham, and the conrse of the Eavensbourne. There is a 
 railway station at the Priory, which is the site of the 
 alien house mentioned above. 
 
 Leyton, Essex, E. 
 
 b\m.from Fenchurch Street or Liverpool Street Stvis. 
 Fop. 15,506. 
 
 Known also as Low Leyton; lying close to the Lea 
 river, but including in the parish, which is very large, 
 the well-situated village of Leytonstone. The manor 
 belonged to the Abbey of Stratford, and after the dis- 
 solution to Lord Chancellor Wriothesley. It has since 
 been sold and subdivided many times. 
 
 The CnrECH (St. Maiy's) is chiefly of the last century. 
 There are four brasses. Strype, the antiquary, d. 1737, 
 bur. in chancel. Monuments to the Hicks family, 1612- 
 1723 ; to Lady 31. Kingston, 1557 (see inscription on 
 brass on S. wall); W. Bowyer, the printer, d. 1737 : Sir 
 John Strange, Master of the Eolls, d. 1754. The register 
 dates from 1575. The living is a vicarage, nominally 
 worth 450/. a year, in private patronage. 
 
 There are several handsome old houses. Eltoe House, 
 long the residence of Cardinal "Wiseman, is in Church 
 Lane. Euckholt House was the seat of the Hicks 
 family. It is near the railway station, on the left of the 
 way to the village, but has been rebuilt. At Knott's 
 Green, l^m. X.E., is Mr. G. Barclay's Obsei-vatory. 
 
 Leytonstone is about Im. farther N.W. along the 
 high road. There is a raOway station close to the 
 village. There are many prettily situated villas and 
 houses, and the forest has left some fine timber scattered 
 here and there. The number of public institutions is 
 large, no fewer than 1200 of the population of the hamlet 
 being in schools and workhouses. The church is modern 
 and contains no monuments of interest. 
 
 Loughton, Essex. 
 
 Vim. from Fenchurch Street or Liverpool Street Stns. 
 Fop. 2527. 
 This is one of the best places from which to visit the 
 remains of Epping Forest (see). 
 The manor belonged to Waltham Abbey by gift of 
 
 G
 
 82 BOUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 Harold. It has been in various private families since the 
 dissolution. The church (St. John's), an ugly "Nor- 
 man" building of thirty years ago, supersedes the old 
 church, of which the chancel remains, but in poor con- 
 dition. There are two brasses. The living is a rectory 
 in private patronage, and worth 580^., gross, a year. 
 Loughton Hall stood close by, and the avenue of firs led 
 from the church to the house. See the gates, good 
 wrought ironwork. The hall was burnt 1836. Here 
 Queen Elizabeth visited the Stonards, 1561. There are 
 very pleasant walks from Loughton, especially through 
 the forest, to Higlibeech (where there is a modern church), 
 to Highbeech Green (see Waltham), to Buckhurst Hill 
 and Chigwell (see). 
 
 Maiden, or Maldon, Surrey. 
 
 12m. from Waterloo St7i. Pop. 416. 
 
 A scattered village, with a church (St. John's), rebuilt 
 in 1610, of little interest. There are no monuments. The 
 register dates from 1678. The living is a vicarage, and 
 worth, with Chessington, to which it is joined, 447/. a 
 year. The manor was given in the 13th century by 
 Walter Merton, Bishop of Eochester, to his foundation at 
 Oxford ; but Henry YIII. seized 120 acres for his Great 
 Park at Nonsuch, and Elizabeth compelled the college to 
 give her a lease of the whole for 5000 years at a nominal 
 rent. She granted it to Lord Arundel in exchange for 
 his lease of Nonsuch. (See Cuddington.) In 1627 a 
 decree of the Court of Chancery revised this unjust 
 arrangement, and Maiden eventually reverted to the 
 college, which owns it now, together with the advowson 
 of the vicarage. 
 
 Worcester Park (Eailway Station) is a group of villas 
 on the site of part of Nonsuch Park. It is partly in 
 this parish, and partly in Cuddington (see). 
 
 Merton, Surrey, S.W. 
 
 8m. from Waterloo Stn. Pop. 2139. 
 
 Closely adjoins Tooting on the S. 
 
 History. — Merantune, as it is called in the English 
 Chronicle, has been the scene of several remarkable 
 events. In 784 Cynewulf, King of ^^^essex, was murdered 
 here. In 871 King Ethelred and his brother Alfred
 
 MERTON. 83 
 
 fought a long and bloody battle with the Danes, when 
 Ethelred was killed. Queen Matilda refounded a priory 
 about 1130. Here Becket was educated, and Walter 
 Merton, founder of Merton College, Oxon. In 1236 the 
 Statutes of Merton, by which the assembled barons 
 refused to accept the canon law, saying, in English-Latin, 
 "Nolumus leges Angliae mutari," were passed in a council 
 held in Merton Priory. It is owing to this act that, 
 among other things, the marriage laws of England and 
 Scotland differ. The Abbey lands have been in private 
 hands since the dissolution. 
 
 The Church (St. Mary's) is ancient, probably dating 
 from the early part of the 12th century, but except a 
 Norman doorway has few interesting features. It is 
 situated about a furlong S. of the railway station on high 
 ground leading to the Common. There is one good 
 monument, with coloured figures, to Gregory Lovell, d. 
 1597. In the churchyard are the graves of Francis 
 Nixon, d. 1768, who perfected the art of calico printing, 
 and of Dorcas Lackington, d. 1795, wife of the eminent 
 bookseller. The vicarage, which is in private patronage, 
 is only of nominal value. The register commences in 
 1559. 
 
 The Priory stood on ground a little lower than the 
 church. The chronicles of the Priory still exist in the 
 Bodleian Library. From them we learn that the monks 
 were much given to hunting, and in a visitation held by 
 Woodlock, Bishop of Winchester, about 1310, they are 
 censured for going about with bows and arrows and 
 neglecting to attend 3Iass. There are only some walls 
 remaining, but Tertue, writing in the early part of the 
 18th century, describes a chapel as then standing entire. 
 The E. window remained till fifty years ago. A silk 
 printing factory occupies the site. 
 
 Nelson Place, a row of houses, marks the situation of 
 Merton Place, Lord Nelson's occasional residence, 1801- 
 1805. He left it in September, 1805, when he sailed on 
 his last voyage, being killed at Trafalgar, October 25, 
 1805. The house continued in the occupation of Lady 
 Hamilton till 1808. The widow of Captain Cook long 
 lived in the village. 
 
 a 2
 
 84 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 Mill Hill, Middlesex, N.W. 
 
 8lm.fi'om King's Cross or St. Pancras Stns. Pop. 1335, 
 
 The Stations are Im. from tlie town. 
 
 This was formerly a hamlet in Hendon, but lies 2m. N., 
 at the edge of the country. The village is long and 
 irregular, but well situated, and a favourite site for villas 
 and colleges. At the N.W. end is High wood Hill, on 
 which Sir Stamford Raffles and William AVilberforce lived 
 in neighbouring houses. Eaffles died at Highwood House 
 July 5th, 1826. AVilberforce, who left Mill Hill in 1831, 
 built the church (St. Paul's), which was consecrated in 
 1836, and is in the Gothic of the period. The living, a 
 vicarage, is in the gift of the vicar of Hendon. 
 
 The dark-looking building on the right of the road from 
 the Midland Eailway Station is a Eoman Catholic Mission- 
 ary College. The tower is 100 feet high. In the village 
 street is Mill Hill School, a Congregationalist College. 
 
 The views from the high ground are very pretty in all 
 directions. The ancient forest which surrounded it on 
 every side has left some fine trees, and the country has a 
 well-wooded appearance. Pleasant walks may be made 
 to include Totteridge, Whetstone, and Barnet, or Edgware 
 (see). 
 
 Mitcliam, Surrey, S.W. 
 
 10m. from Waterloo Sfn. Pop. 6498. 
 This is a busy suburb, full of manufactories, here and 
 there varied by market gardens. The Church (St. Peter 
 and St. Paul), built in 1822, is uninteresting. The 
 register begins in 1650. The living, a vicarage in private 
 patronage, is worth 460?. per ann. gross. The Common 
 is large and pleasant. 
 
 Mortlake, Surrey, S.W. 
 
 Sim. from Waterloo St7i. Pop. 5119. 
 
 History. — Called inH.S., Mortlage. The meaning of 
 the name has puzzled inquirers. The manor belonged 
 from time immemorial to the See of Canterbury, but was 
 given up to Henry YIII. by Cranmer. The manor house 
 was often used by the Archbishops, and the manor in- 
 cluded Wimbledon. Abp. Peckham died at Mortlake, 
 1292, and Abp. Eeynolds, 1327. There are no traces of 
 the house now remaining. 
 
 The Church was built by the Archbishops in the 14th
 
 XOETHALL. 85 
 
 centnry because of the distance from "Wimbledon. The 
 building has little of its ancient features left, except the 
 ivy-clad tower which is dated 1543. The font, bears 
 the arms of Abp. Eourchier, d. 1486. I'he living is in 
 the gift of the Dean and Chapter of Worcester, and is a 
 vicarage worth 300/. a year. The register begins in 1599. 
 There are many monuments, but no brasses. .See tablet 
 to Sir P. Francis, d. 1818, supposed author of 'Letters of 
 Junius,' Dr. Dee, "the wizard," d. 1608, was buried in 
 chancel. In the churchyard are the graves of Partridge, 
 the astrologer, d. 1715, and Alderman Barber, 1741, Lord 
 Mayor in 1733, who deserves to be remembered for having 
 placed a monument to Butler in Westminster Abbey, thus 
 occasioning a well-known epigram. Dr. Dee's house was 
 immediatefy W. of the church. Here he was visited by 
 Queen Elizabeth. The mob broke into his laboratory in 
 1583, and destroyed his astrological implements. On the 
 site, a manufactory of tapestry was opened in the reign of 
 James I., by Sir Francis Crane. For his use the cartoons 
 of Eaphael were brought to England. The manufactory 
 was given up in the reign of Charles II. 
 
 East Sheen is in the parish. The name is said to be 
 derived from the sheen of the Thames as viewed from 
 Eichmond Hill. The old name of Pdchmond was West 
 Sheen. (>'?.) The walk from Mortlake through East 
 Sheen to Eichmond Park is one that should not be neg- 
 lected by any lover of beautiful scenery of a cultivated 
 kind. There are many villas on the way, few of them of 
 any great antiquity, but many remarkable for their trees 
 and gardens. Christ Church was built in 1863 by Mr, 
 Blomfield, Within the Park Gate is the residence of 
 Prof, Owen. Uplands belongs to Sir H. Taylor, the poet. 
 
 Nottingham, Kent. See Eltha^i. 
 Muswell Hill, Middlesex. See Hoknsey. 
 Nonsuch, Surrey. See Cuddixgton. 
 North. Cray, Kent. See Cray. 
 North End, Middlesex. See Fulham. 
 Northall, Middlesex. 
 
 Situ. from SoutJadI, dhyi.from Paddington Stns. Poo. 479. 
 A retired country village on a gentle eminence, some- 
 times called Xortholt and Xorthawe, The heavy clay
 
 Ob BOUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 soil, though not nnsuitable for brick-making, which is 
 carried on to some extent in the parish, makes it unpopular 
 with villa builders ; and a want of good water is complained 
 of by Lysons, who gives an account of the difficulty of 
 well-digging here. The manor belonged to Sir Xicholas 
 Bramber, beheaded 1386. The church (St. Mary's) stands 
 on the E. side of the green, and is, so far, unrestored and 
 interesting, containing three brasses and a good Perp. font. 
 The living is a vicarage, worth (gross) 6^2?. per annum, 
 in the gift of Brasenose College, Oxford. The register 
 dates from 1560. Dr. Lisle, Bp. of St. Asaph, died at Lisle 
 Street, London, 1749, was buried within the chancel. 
 
 Norwood, Middlesex. 
 
 lira, from SoutJmU, Qim.from Paddington Stns. Pop. 5882. 
 
 This parish, originally a chapelry of Hayes, contains 
 the schools of Marylebone Cnion, and also the so-called 
 Hanwell Lunatic Asylum, institutions which gi-eatly in- 
 crease the nominal number of the population. There are 
 about 1800 patients in the Asylum, which has been en- 
 larged at various times, but was originally founded 1831. 
 The church of Norwood is ancient, but has been almost 
 rebuilt. It contains some old glass. There are 2 brasses, 
 and some large monuments, one with effigies of the 18th 
 century. The living is a rectory in private patronage, 
 and worth 400/. a year gross. The register beg-ins in 1654. 
 
 Between the village and the Asylum is Osterley Park (see 
 Heston), and the country is well wooded and green, but flat. 
 
 Norwood, Surrey, S.E. 
 
 6m. from Charing Cross Stn. Pop. 12,536. 
 A district of Lambeth parish. Norwood has of late 
 years become so populous itself as to require at least half- 
 a-dozen churches, besides chapels. It is well situated on 
 the same hill which bears the giant bulk of the Crystal 
 Palace, and may be reached by four or five railway stations 
 from all parts of London. The Palace, though usually 
 reckoned as in Sydenham, is really in Norwood, or rather 
 in Lambeth, part of the grounds being not only in a dif- 
 ferent parish, but even in a different county. (See Penge 
 and Sydenham.} There is little or nothing else to be seen 
 at Norwood except the fine view over London. A pretty 
 walk may be taken along the ridge of the hill from the 
 High Level Station to Upper Norwood Church, and thence 
 to Croydon — about 3m.
 
 PETERSHAM. 87 
 
 Penge, Surrey, S.E. 
 
 Im.from Charing Cross Stn. Pop. 13,202. 
 Like Norwood, Penge has become populous in a few 
 years. In Lysons' time it was a district of Battersea, 
 and is hardly mentioned, except as having a Common 2m. 
 in circumference. But Penge Place has been added to 
 the grounds of the Crystal Palace, and the Common and 
 "Wood are covered with houses. There are three churches 
 and four railway stations. 
 
 Perivale, Middlesex, W. 
 
 2m. from Ealing, o^m. from Paddington Stns. Pop. 33. 
 This parish is also known as Greenford Parva, and has 
 only borne its present name, which Lysons thinks a corrup- 
 tion of Parva, since the 16th century. In the reign of 
 Edward III. it was also called Cornhill. As it is less than 
 8m. from the Marble Arch, its small population and retired 
 situation would alone suffice to make it remarkable ; but it 
 has little other claim on the attention. There were five 
 houses in the parish in 1800 : there are seven now. The 
 church is pretty, and standing near it is the rectory, a 
 half-timbered and perhaps ancient house. The church 
 was judiciously restored in 1875, and contains several 
 monuments, one brass, and a chancel-screen of that 17th 
 century work which the efforts of restorers have made so 
 scarce. The register only dates from 1709 ; the rectory 
 is worth about 300/. a year, and is in the gift of Lady 
 Croft. 
 
 Petersham, Surrey. 
 
 l^m.from Eichmond Stn., dim. from Waterloo Stn. 
 Pop. 683. 
 
 The manor belonged to Chertsey Abbey, and after- 
 wards successively to many royal and noble persons, 
 including Anne of Cleves, Henry Prince of Wales, 
 Charles Duke of York, afterwards Charles I,, and the Duke 
 of Lauderdale, and has now for some generations been 
 the property of the Earls of Dysart, of the Tollemache 
 family. 
 
 The Church (St. Peter's) stands between the road to 
 Eichmond and the river, and is not uninteresting, having 
 been built in 1505, and patched at various times since. 
 It is now chiefly of red brick, in a quaint classical style,
 
 88 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 with a picturesque bell turret, and contains a laroje 
 number of monuments, including a tablet to Captain 
 Vancouver, d. 1798. The churchyard abounds in curious 
 epitaphs. See especially those on Sir G.Scott, d. 1841; 
 on Patty Bean, d. 1785 ; on the Miss Berrys, Walpole's 
 friends, d., both, 1852. The vicarage is united to the par- 
 sonage of Kew, the gross income amounting to o20l. ; 
 it is in the patronage of the Crown. 
 
 Ham House stands S.W. of the church, on low ground. 
 It dates from the reign of James I., when it was built by 
 Sir T. Vavasor. The front is to Ham Common (sce), 
 where there are fine wrought-iron gates ; but the 
 fir-trees, with which the garden wall is lined, hide it 
 from view. The back, which looks to the river, is Avell 
 known to anyone who has rowed along the stream. 
 The red brick harmonizes well with the dark foliage; 
 but the house cannot be called a fine specimen of the 
 architecture of the period. The interior, which is not 
 shown to the public, contains much furniture of the same 
 age as the house, including rehcs of Lauderdale and his 
 duchess, of the Cabal ministry, who sometimes met here, 
 and portraits of many eminent persons. The library 
 contains twelve Caxton's, one of them unique, and many 
 other rare books. 
 
 At the opposite side of the Kingston Eoad from the 
 church, is a lane leading to Sudhrooh, a fine house, con- 
 taining a magnificent hall, built by the Duke of Argyll, 
 and celebrated by Scott in the "Heart of Midlothian" as 
 the place where Jeanie Deans begged her sister's life. The 
 duke was born at Ham House, the Duchess of Lauderdale 
 being his gi^andmother. He died in 1743 at Sudbrook. 
 It is now a sanitary establishment, and is surrounded 
 with pleasant grounds, from which an entrance may be 
 obtained to Richmond Park. A room opening from the 
 hall is shown as that in which, during the tenancy 
 of Lord Durham, the first Reform Bill was drafted. 
 Canning lived here previously ; and here his daughter, 
 Lady Clanricarde, was married. The village of Peter- 
 sham consists mainly of handsome old houses. Petersham 
 House was pulled down in 1834, and the grounds added 
 to Richmond Park (see).
 
 PLUMSTEAD. 89 
 
 Pinner, Middlesex. 
 
 l^m.from Pinner Stn., ISim. from Euston Stn. 
 Fop. 2332. 
 Although situated 3m. N., and including a large 
 village or town, this parish was long reckoned part of 
 Harrow (see). The church (St. John the Baptist) was 
 built in 1321. It contains some interesting monuments, 
 one to John Day, d. 1G22, minister of the parish, with a 
 quaint epitaph, playing upon his name. There is one 
 brass, 1580. The living, worth 108/. a year, is in the 
 gift of the vicar of Harrow. There are several hand- 
 some villa residences ; AVoodridings, near the railway 
 station, having a small district church. At the opposite 
 side of the line, and very conspicuous, is the Commercial 
 Travellers' School, built in 1855. It holds about three 
 hundred children. The walk from Harrow to Pinner 
 may be taken almost all through fields. Observe a farm- 
 house near the railway, about half way ; here was a 
 residence of the Archbishops when they o^iied the manor. 
 It is knowTi as Headstone, but has no feature of interest 
 except the moat. 
 
 Plaistow, Essex, E. 
 
 4t^m.from Fenchurch Street Stn. Pop. 3459. 
 Now one of the least attractive of the suburbs, this was 
 not very long ago a pleasant country village. Some 
 handsome old houses still remain buried among squalid 
 tenements, and shrouded in the smoke of chemical fac- 
 tories. The village is crossed by the great metropolitan 
 sewer. Canning Town, Silvertown, and the Tictoria 
 Docks are in the parish. The Docks, to which a great 
 addition is projected, now cover more than 100 acres, and 
 as the entrance lock is 325 ft. long, admits vessels of the 
 largest size. {See Xorth Woolwich.) The church (St. 
 ]\Iary's) was built about -iO years ago, and there are three 
 district churches besides mission chapels. The parish 
 was taken out of West Ham (see). 
 
 Plumstead, Kent, S.E. 
 
 ll\m. from Charing Cross Stn. Pop. 28,259. 
 The manor early belonged to the abbot and monks of 
 St. Augustine at C'anterbury, and with some vicissitudes 
 remained theirs till the dissolution. It now belongs to
 
 90 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 Queen's College, Oxon. The old church (St. Nicholas) 
 has been made a district church, and the parish church 
 is a new one (St. Margaret's), built 25 years ago. The 
 churchyard of St. Nicholas contains many monuments, 
 some with very quaint epitaphs ; and there are some also 
 within the church. The register dates from 1654, and 
 has, under 25th July, 1737, an entry of the burial of 
 William Butler, a dwarf 2 ft. 6 in. high, aged 40. The 
 living, a vicarage, now attached to St. Margaret's, is 
 nominally worth 800/. a year, and is in private patronage. 
 The Common has lately been the scene of riots and the 
 subject of litigation. Good views across the river may 
 be had from it. 
 
 Plumstead Marslies form an extensive tract of flat 
 meadows lying N. of the railway between Plumstead and 
 Belvedere stations. At Abbey Wood (see), about half 
 way, the line is crossed by the great main drainage 
 sewer, and the outfall is at the river's bank, about Im. 
 N. There are several powder magazines along the shore, 
 and there are artillery butts for the use of Woolwich 
 Arsenal. 
 
 Erith, which is 4m. E. from Plumstead, stands exactly 
 on the 12m. circle, but is 15im. by railway from Charing 
 Cross. The manor, which was long Crown property, was 
 alienated in the reign of Henry Till. The church (St. 
 John the Baptist) is near the station. It has been terribly 
 restored, and is now practically new, and it is difficult, if 
 not impossible, to distinguish the old features from the 
 modern. Observe crucifix above the chancel arch, the 
 piscina, and the hagioscope. Monuments : Elizabeth, 
 Countess of Shrewsbury, d. 1568, fine effigy, but muti- 
 lated; tablet, with allegorical figure, by Chantrey, to 
 Lord Eardley, d. 1824. There are eight brasses, several 
 injured. On S. wall of chancel, outside, is a dial, dated 
 1643, with the motto in Latin, "I will never return to 
 thee." In the sand-pits near Erith many geological 
 remains of interest have been found, including fossil tusks 
 and bones of elephants. 
 
 Belvedere, on the right, Im. W. before reaching Erith, 
 is a fine house, formerly the seat of Lord Eardley, now 
 the Asylum for Merchant Seamen. The park has been 
 converted into building sites, and there is a district 
 church (All Saints'). 
 
 Borstall Heath occupies the ridge of the hill on the
 
 PUTNEY. 
 
 91 
 
 right of the line, and has been secured for public recrea- 
 tion. The views are very fine, and a walk to it should 
 by no means be omitted. (/See Walks.) 
 
 Putney, Surrey, S.W. 
 
 blm.from Waterloo Stn. Pop. 9439, 
 Exactly opposite Fulham, and connected with it by a 
 bridge ; a suburb of London, and though interesting 
 historically, retains few features of antiquity or pic- 
 turesqueness. It was a part of the great manor of 
 "Wimbledon, but seems to have had a church very early. 
 The present church (St. 3Iary's) was built on the old site 
 in 1836. Adjoining it on the X. is a chapel built of 
 materials removed from the old church, originally a 
 memorial of Nicholas West, Bishop of Ely, d. 1533, who 
 was the son of a baker at Putney. Observe the fan- 
 work tracery. The tower is old. The living is a vicarage 
 in the gift of the Dean and Chapter of Worcester, worth 
 350^., gross, a year. The parish is in the diocese of Lon- 
 don. The register dates from 1620, and contains a notice 
 of the baptism of " Edward, son of Edward Gibbon, Esq., 
 and Judah his wife, bom the 27th of April, and baptized 
 May 13th, 1737." This was the celebrated historian of 
 the •' Declme and Fall." Putney was also the birthplace 
 of Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, beheaded 1540. When 
 Charles I. was at Hampton Court, Putney was the head- 
 quarters of the parliamentary generals, 1647. Putney 
 Heath, Im. S. fi'om station, was the scene of several 
 remarkable duels. Here, in 1798, W. Pitt fought W. 
 Tierney, and in 1809 Lord Castlereagh wounded George 
 Canning. At Bowling Green House, near the Heath, 
 W\ Pitt died, 1806. 
 
 Eotharrqjton, at the opposite side of the road from the 
 Heath, is about l^m. from Putney, of which it is an 
 ecclesiastical district. There are many handsome houses, 
 surrounded with ornamental grounds, including Pioe- 
 hampton House, the seat of Lord Leven ; Dover House, 
 lately of the notorious xllexander Collie, and formerly 
 of Lord Clifden ; Clarence Lodge, of William IV., now 
 a school for the daughters of oflBcers ; and Koehampton 
 Park, a Roman Catholic Monastery. There is a gate to 
 Eoehampton at the X.E. corner of Eichmond Park, and 
 a more agreeable walk cannot be taken than from Putney 
 Station, over the Heath, through Eoeham]jton to Eich- 
 mond.
 
 92 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 Richmond, Surrey. 
 
 d^m.from Waterloo Stn. Pop. 15,112. 
 
 Beautifully situated on the right bank of the Thames, 
 and lying between Kew Gardens and Eichmond Park, 
 this is a place well suited to be the head-quarters of the 
 excursionist. Omnibuses run from the Bank to Eich- 
 mond by Putney Bridge at frequent intervals, and are 
 preferable in many ways to the railway, as the station is 
 a long way from the Park, and the line is laid out so as 
 to afford but few good views. 
 
 History. — Eichmond was originally known as West 
 Sheen, and was a village lying wholly in the hollow S.E. 
 of Kew Park, and clustering round a royal manor house, 
 which existed here almost from time immemorial. The 
 present Park was then a common or heath, and Kew 
 Park, otherwise called Eichmond or Sheen Old Park, 
 formed the grounds of the house. In his Palace here, 
 Edward I. received the Scotch nobles, 1301. Edward III. 
 improved or rebuilt the Palace, and died at Sheen, 1377. 
 The first wife of Eichard II. also died here, 1394, where- 
 upon Eichard pulled down his grandfathers buildings, 
 and deserted the place, Henry V. rebuilt the house ; 
 Edward lY. gave it to his queen, Elizabeth Wydvile, and 
 it should have been hers when Henry YII. coveted it, 
 and made it a frequent residence in the early years of his 
 reign. In the last year of the loth century, having stood 
 less than a hundred years, it was destroyed by fire ; but 
 Henry took the opportunity of renovating it. The name 
 was changed to that which it still bears, in allusion to 
 the king's former earldom, and a fine palace rose from 
 the ashes. Here, in 1509, after a lingering illness, 
 Henry YII. died; and his successor entertained the 
 Emperor Charles Y. at Richmond in 1522. AYolsey was 
 allowed to use it in exchange for the neighbouring Palace 
 of Hampton Court which he gave up to the King. Eliza- 
 beth was frequently here during her long reign, and here 
 died, 1603. It was repaired, and much money spent on 
 it by Henry, Prince of Y^ales, but it was his brother, 
 Charles I., who added the magnificent New Park to the 
 glories of Eichmond. In 1634 a commission was ap- 
 pointed to buy or otherwise obtain the land, and in spite 
 of much opposition and discontent, 650 acres were taken 
 from Mortlake, 230 from Putney, 265 from Petersham,
 
 EICHMOXD. 93 
 
 483 from Ham, and as much from Kingston and Eich- 
 mond itself as made up a total of 2253, the brick wall 
 surrounding it being reckoned near 8m. in lengih. After 
 the death of Charles I., of whose high-handed proceedings 
 few brought him more unpopularity than this, the Par- 
 liament gave Eichmond New Park as a gift to the citizens 
 of London. The city gave it up to Charles II. on his 
 return. The Palace had been sold and partly dismantled. 
 Boat-loads of pictm-es were removed to Whitehall ; but it 
 was occasionally used by Charles ; his mistress, Barbara, 
 Duchess of Cleveland ; and his mother, Henrietta Maria. 
 It gradually fell into decay, however. Houses were built 
 or reconstructed of the offices, and although it has never 
 been wholly pulled down at any one time, the remains 
 are scarcely worth turning out of the way to see. The 
 entrance gateway to the Wardrobe Court, now called 
 Old Palace Yard, bears the arms of Henry YIII., and 
 is almost the only thing left. The royal visitors to Eich- 
 mond have for a hundred years or more been content to 
 inhabit a lodge in the Park which was partly built by- 
 Princess Amelia while she was Eanger. Eichmond Church 
 (St. Mary Magdalene) has been altered and rebuilt so 
 often that it is not worth a visit except for the monuments 
 which are numerous and interesting. Observe grave of 
 Thomson, marked by a brass in N. aisle ; a monument by 
 Bacon to Major Bean, killed at Waterloo ; and many 
 more, some with quaint epitaphs. In the churchyard is 
 bm'ied Lord Fitzwilliam, who by his will endowed Cam- 
 bridge University with a museum, d. 1816 ; also Edmund 
 Xean, the tragedian, d. 1883. The register begins in 
 1583, and according to Mr. Thorne, contains a note of the 
 baptism in 1681 of Swift's Stella, Hester Johnson. The 
 living is a vicarage in the gift of King's CoUege, Cam- 
 bridge, and worth, nominally, 600/. a year. There are 
 several district churches, one of them, St. Matthias, 
 designed by Sir G. G. Scott, E.A. 
 
 The objects of interest at Eichmond may be described 
 in order, beginning at the Eailway Station. The visitor, 
 before proceeding to the HiU and Terrace, will pass on the 
 right a road which leads at a distance of about a hundred 
 yards to the Green, in which stands the gateway of the 
 Palace. On the N. side is Wentworth House, which was 
 inhabited by Lord Fitzwilliam, mentioned above. In the 
 lane leading from the Green to the Kew Eoad, lived James
 
 94 BOUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 Thomson, the poet. The house is now an infirmary, but 
 the poet's rooms are preserved. Eeturnin^ to the main 
 street, the church, which stands behind the houses on the 
 opposite side, may be visited. Turning; to the left along 
 the main street, the villa of the Duke of Buccleuch — which 
 is said to have been built on part of the site of the Palace, 
 but probably this is by confusion with Queensberry House, 
 pulled down in 1830 — is on the right, just after the ap- 
 proach to the Bridge is passed. Tlie lower road, on the 
 right, leads to Petersham. We follow the upper road, 
 which ascends the Hill on the left. The large pleasure 
 grounds on the right are attached to the duke's villa, being 
 reached from the house by a passage under the lower road. 
 Here the Queen and Prince Albert were entertained in 
 1842. Ascending still farther, the Terrace is reached. The 
 tall new building on the right was intended for a hydro- 
 pathic establishment, and is now a co-operative boarding- 
 house. Here, in a former house, the late Marquis of 
 Lansdowne, the Marquis of Anglesey, and the Prince de 
 Joinville successively resided. The view from the Terrace 
 is one of the finest in England. The old name. Sheen, is 
 said to be derived from the reflections seen far below in 
 the Thames, but this is more than doubtful. Sir J. Pey- 
 nolds painted this landscape from Wick House, the first 
 on the right after passing the Terrace. In one of the 
 houses on the other side lived Mrs. Fitzherbert as a 
 widow, and it was here she attracted the notice of the 
 Prince, afterwards George lY. Next to Wick House, and 
 on the same side, is the "Star and Garter," a famous 
 tavern, now much changed from its pristine simplicity. 
 The ugly but spacious banqueting house adjoining, was 
 erected in 1865 by Mr. Barry. It is a sad eyesore in the 
 view from the river. The older portion of the inn was 
 burnt in 1870, when the manager perished. In it Louis 
 Philippe had lived for six months after his flight from 
 Paris. We are now facing the Park gate, built by Brown 
 for George III. It bears that King's cipher, the initials 
 G. P., and the date 1798. Next the gate, and opposite 
 the " Star and Garter," is Ancaster House, once the seat of 
 Sir Lionel Darell, a favourite of George III. The road 
 down the Hill, by the side of the tavern, leads to Peter- 
 sham, meeting the lower road at the foot. 
 
 Entering the Park, the new Terrace — from which, under 
 fine trees, the view may be enjoyed even better than from
 
 EOMFOED. 96 
 
 the Hill — is on the right ; the main avenue goes to the 
 Kingston Gate, 22m. The first house on the right, on the 
 brow of the Hill, is Pembroke Lodge, in which the aged 
 Earl Bussell has long resided, and where he has more 
 than once been visited by Her Majesty. A pathway tending 
 to the left, leads, at a distance of 2|m., to Robin Hoods 
 Gate. In the open space outside the Ladder Stile, a gibbet 
 used to stand. Gallows Hill is now called Kingston Hill. 
 Eetuming to the Richmond Gate, an avenue on the left, 
 nearly due AY., leads to Eoehampton Gate, Ifm. (See under 
 Mortiake.) About half way on the right is the White 
 Lodge, formerly the residence of the Ranger. Here Lord 
 Sidmouth died 1844, and was buried at Mortiake, this 
 part of the Park being in that parish. The Queen 
 lived here in retirement for a short time after the death 
 of the Duchess of Kent. The Prince of Wales was here 
 for some months with his tutor, and has since visited the 
 Lodge with the Princess. It is now occupied by the 
 Duke and Duchess of Teck. The oak avenue leading to 
 the entrance is known as the Queen's Walk. From an 
 eminence known as Oliver's Mount at the E. end, may be 
 seen a fine view on a clear day. including Harrow, Netting 
 Hill, St. Paul's, the Houses of Parliament, and the Crystal 
 Palace. There are eight public entrances to the Park, 
 which is without a rival in the environs of London for 
 situation and picturesqueness. There has been too much 
 enclosure of late years for the purpose of encouraging 
 game, but public attention having been called to the sub- 
 ject, a better policy may be looked for. The present 
 ranger is the Duke of Cambridge. 
 
 For places to be visited near Richmond, see Kew, Ham, 
 Petersham, Hampton, Mortiake, Wimbledon, and King- 
 ston, each of them within a four-mile walk fi'om Eichmond 
 Station. 
 
 Boehampton, Surrey. See Putney. 
 
 Romford, Essex. 
 
 12im.fro7n Liverpool Street Stn. Fop. 6635. 
 The name probably means a "broad ford" over the 
 Bourne river, and has no reference to the Eoman road 
 which traverses the parish. The town is famous for a 
 great weekly market, in existence so far back as 1247. 
 It is held on Wednesdays. There are large breweries, a
 
 96 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 Town Hall, Corn Exchange, Court House, &c. The 
 church (St. Mary and Edward the Confessor) was built 
 in 1850, on the site of a church built about 1407. The 
 vicarage is worth 700?. a year, and is in the gift of 
 New College, Oxford. There is one good monument, 
 that of Sir A. Cooke, of Giddea Hall, d. 1576. He was 
 preceptor to Edward \1. One of his daughters married 
 Lord Burleigh, another Sir N. Bacon, father of Lord 
 Bacon, and another Lord Eussell. Giddea Hall is about 
 ^m. E. of the town, a modern building of little interest. 
 In the old house, pulled down in 1720, Sir T. Cooke 
 entertained Queen Elizabeth, 1568. Francis Quarles, 
 author of the ' Emblems.' was born in 1592, at Stewards, 
 close to the town. Eomford was part of the Liberty of 
 Havering-at-Bower, a royal park and palace, where 
 Edward the Confessor saw the vision of St. John. 
 
 Sheen, East, Surrey. See Mortlake. 
 Sheen, West, Surrey. See EicmioxD. 
 Shepherd's Bush, Middlesex. See Hammersmith. 
 Shooter's Hill, Kent. See Woolwich. 
 Sidcup, Kent. 
 
 lOf m./rom Charing Cross Stn. Fop. 520. 
 A new parish, taken out of Chislehurst, from which it 
 is distant 2m. The church is modern but handsome, and 
 contains some stained glass. The living is a vicarage, in 
 the gift of the Bishop of ■^^^orcester, worth 160/. per 
 annum. Between Sidcup and Foot's Cray is Ursula 
 Lodge, an asylum for six maiden ladies, founded by Mr. 
 Berens, of Sidcup. 
 
 Snaresbrook, Essex. See Wanstead. 
 Southgate, Middlesex. See Ed^ioxton. 
 
 Spring Grove, Middlesex. 
 
 Adjoins Jsleuorth Stn. 12m. from Waterloo Stn. 
 Fop. 1657. 
 A hamlet of Heston parish, but now greater than its 
 parent. The church, a fine modern building, stands near 
 Osterley Park. The International College is on the site 
 of a villa inhabited by Sir Joseph Banks, who died there 
 in 1820.
 
 STEATFOED. 97 
 
 Stanmore, Great, Middlesex. 
 
 Im.frora Edgicare, ll^m.from King^s Cross Stn. 
 Pop. 1355. 
 Lysons explains the name as "the boundary stone," 
 because Stanmore lies at the extremity of the county. It 
 was one parish with Little Stanmore (.see) at the D.S. 
 The Wathng Street ran through it, and Sulloniac^e has 
 been placed near Brockley Hill (see Edgware) and Roman 
 remains have frequently been found in the parish. The 
 church was built in 1632, and consecrated by xlrchbishop 
 Laud. It was insufficient and inconvenient, and a new 
 church was built close by in 1850. This good example 
 deserves to be specially noticed, as in most places the old 
 churches have been ruined by so-called restoration. 
 Queen Adelaide, who resided at Bentley Priory for 
 several years, laid the foundation of the new church. In 
 the old one are several monuments. The register begins 
 in 1599, but is defective. The living, a rectory in private 
 patronage, is nominally worth 500/. a year. The parish 
 is said to be very healthy, several inhabitants having been 
 believed to reach 100 years. The situation is 280 ft. 
 above the sea. The Common affords good views. At 
 Bentley Priory, part of which is in Harrow parish, Queen 
 Adelaide cam^e to live on the death of William lY. in 
 1838. She died here in 1819. In 1854 Sir J. Kelk bought 
 the i^lace, and has made great alterations. There are 
 several other fine seats in the neighbourhood. 
 
 Stanmore, Little, Middlesex. See WmxcHrRCH. 
 
 Stratford, Essex, E. 
 
 4m. from Liverpool Street Stn, Pop. 23,286. 
 The growth of London eastward has swallowed up 
 almost all that was interesting in Stratford, the " ford of 
 the street," or Eoman road into Essex, The Lea, in 
 Eoman times a wide estuary, began to contract when the 
 Old Ford was abandoned, and the Street Ford lower 
 down came into use. In the 12th centuiy, "Good Queen 
 Matilda," the English wife of Henry I., built an arched 
 bridge, and the place was known in Chancers time as 
 Stratford-atte-Bow — that is, at the bow or arch. The 
 name of Bow is now confined to the western or 
 Middlesex side, and the old bridge was removed in 1839.
 
 98 BOUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 Stratford Langthorn Abbey was founded for Cistercians 
 in 1134. There are now no remains, except perhaps the 
 Abbey Mills. The church (St. John's) is modem ; the 
 parish, formerly a hamlet of West Ham (see), was sepa- 
 rated in 1868, when the living was made a vicarage. It 
 is in the gift of the vicar of West Ham, and is worth 
 360/. a year Two district churches have already sprung 
 up in the densely crowded parish. The Town Hall is a 
 handsome building, with a tower 100 ft. high, designed by 
 Messrs. Giles and Angell. There are many manufactories 
 in the Lea marshes, each surrounded by a colony of 
 labourers, but a few green spaces may still be found 
 towards West Ham. 
 
 Streatham, Surrey, S."W. 
 
 Z^m. from Victoria Stn, Pop. 14,460. 
 Probably called from its situation on the " street," or 
 ancient road, elsewhere the Stane Street. There were 
 several manors here in the time of D.S. : one of them, 
 Tooting, is said to have belonged to the Abbey of Bee, 
 in jSTormandy, and so got its name of Tooting Bee. The 
 church (St. Leonard's) was rebuilt in 1831, and is scarcely 
 worth a visit, though it contains an ancient knightly 
 effigy and two brasses. The most interesting monuments, 
 however, are two tablets to Henry Thrale, d. 1781, and 
 Mrs. Salusbury, his mother-in-law, d. 1773, the friends of 
 Dr.' Johnson, who -^Tote the Latin inscriptions. There 
 is also a monument to Eebecca, wife of W. Lynne, d. 
 1653, on which he says — 
 
 " Should I ten thousand years enjoy my life, 
 I could not praise enough so good a wife." 
 
 Near this another conjugal paragon is commemorated, 
 Elizabeth Hamilton, d. 1746, " Who was married near 
 47 years and never did one thing to displease her hus- 
 band." See also punning epitaph on E. Livesay, d. 1608. 
 The living is a rectory, in the gift of the Duke of Bed- 
 ford. The income is set down nominally at 1200?. a year, 
 but there are four district churches. The register begins 
 in 1538. 
 
 Of the Thrales' villa nothing remains. It was close to 
 Tooting Bee Common, a fine open space, now happily 
 secured to the public. A castellated and stuccoed house 
 on the N.W. side, known as The Priory, Balham, was, in
 
 SYDENHAM. 99 
 
 1876, the scene of Charles Bravo's death, which gave rise 
 to a long and painful inquiry, held in the inn adjoining 
 Balhani Station. The greater part of Streatham is now 
 built over, or subdivided into villas, but there are still 
 some pleasant walks. (See Norwood.) 
 
 Tooting Graveney, or Lower Tooting, with its common, 
 lies to the S.W., and closely adjoins Merton (see). The 
 open ground which commences at Streatham is thus con- 
 tinued for several miles with slight intervals. The Inde- 
 pendent Chapel owes its origin to Daniel Defoe. 
 
 Sutton, Surrey. 
 
 14:^171. from London Bridge Sfn. Pop. 6558. 
 
 Lying among the downs, which here make a bend to- 
 wards the N., Sutton is admirably suited for a day's 
 excursion from London. It is well known to people who 
 go to the Derby by road, but at other times is a quiet 
 little town. The manor anciently belonged to Chertsey 
 Abbey, and afterwards to the Carews. (See Beddington.) 
 
 The church is new, having been built in 1863, but 
 contains some old monuments, including one to the second 
 Earl Talbot, d. 1782. There is a district church at 
 Benhiltm, N.E. of the town. Sutton is a rectory nomi- 
 nally worth 7607. per annum, in the gift of Hertford 
 College, Oxon. The register begins in 1636. There is 
 another Sutton in Surrey, remarkable for an ancient 
 house, Sutton Place. It is in Woking parish, and beyond 
 our limits. 
 
 Sydenham, Kent, S.E. 
 
 6m. from Victoria Stn. Pop. 19,016. 
 
 Formerly a district or hamlet of Lewisham (see), but 
 since the building of the Crystal Palace a large and 
 already crowded place. 
 
 The chui'ches, of which there arc six or seven, are all 
 new. The few historical associations connected with the 
 place seem to have been obliterated by the one great 
 modern event, though strangely enough, no part of the 
 Palace is in Sydenham, as it lies wholly in the adjoining- 
 parish of Lambeth, and in the adjoining county of Surrey. 
 A portion of the grounds, including the site of an old 
 house, are in Sydenham, as is the villa of Eockhill, long 
 the residence of Sir Joseph Paxton, who died here in 1865. 
 (See Chiswick.) 
 
 H. 2
 
 100 EOUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 The Crystal Palace was built of the materials of the 
 Great Exhibition of 1851, transported hither from Hyde 
 Park. It was opened in 1854 by the Queen, A portion 
 of the north end was burnt in 1866, and has not been 
 rebuilt. (See Norwood, and Walking Excursions, p. 118.) 
 
 Teddington, Middlesex. 
 
 ISim.from Waterloo Stn. Pop. 4063. 
 
 Situated at the N. extremity of Bushey Park. 
 
 History. — Formerly called Totyngton ; as part of the 
 great manor of Staines belonged to the Abbey of AYest- 
 minster until the dissolution; it has since passed through 
 many hands. The idea, refuted by Lysons, but adopted 
 in Xapoleon III.'s " Life of Caesar," was that Teddington 
 meant Tide-end-town, a derivation which may commend 
 itself to people who derive Charing from Chere-reine. 
 The first lock met in ascending the Thames is at Ted- 
 dington, just 17m. above Westminster Bridge. The 
 Thames here flows from S.E. to N.W., thus reversing its 
 course at Fulham. There is still a manor house on the 
 old site, but quite modern. At different times houses in 
 the village have been inhabited by some eminent men; 
 among them the poet Lord Buckhurst (see Knole Excur- 
 sion, p. 122) ; Piobert Dudley, Earl of Leicester ; Paul 
 W^hitehead, the poet and politician, on whom Garrick 
 wrote the well-laiown epitaph, beginning 
 
 " Here lies a man misfortune could not bend." 
 
 Peg Woffington, the actress ; John Wilkes, " a friend to 
 liberty ; " and John Walter, founder of the Times news- 
 paper. 
 
 The Church (St. Maiy's) is not worth a visit, being a 
 patched but not picturesque brick building, chiefly of the 
 last century. The register begins in 1555. The incum- 
 bency is a perpetual curacy in private patronage, and of 
 only nominal value, yet it is said that a Puritan curate 
 was suspended about the year 1640 for preaching a sermon 
 more than an hour long. 
 
 The railway station at Teddington is the best place 
 from which to visit the Chestnut Avenue in Bushey Park. 
 (See Hampton.) 
 
 Tcoting, Surrey. See Steeatham.
 
 TOTTENHAM. 101 
 
 Tottenham, Middlesex, N. 
 
 6m. from Liverpool Street Stn. Pop. 22,869. 
 
 Like many places far beyond it, Tottenham has been 
 swallowed up in bricks and mortar of late, and a con- 
 tinuous street extends along the North road from 
 Bishopsgate. 
 
 History. — The name, in D.S. Toteham, may refer to 
 the elevated situation, and may have affinity with Tothill, 
 in Westminster, and other similar names. But the 
 natural derivation would include it with Tottenham 
 Court, Tooting", and Teddington, as derived from a Saxon 
 family or tribal name. The manor belonged successively 
 to Earl Siward; his son, Waltheof ; David, Earl of Hunt- 
 ingdon; William the Lion, King of Scots, and, in 1254, 
 was divided between Bruce and Baliol, competitors for 
 the Scots crown, and their cousin. Lord Hastings. 
 Bruce's portion was seized by the king in 1306, and 
 though it has since retained the name, has passed 
 through many private families. In 1449 Aldennan 
 Gedeney re-united the three portions, and they have since 
 formed one estate. Bruce Castle has long been a school, 
 and here, before 1833, Sir Eowland Hill taught. 
 
 The Church (All Saints') is im. W. from the high road, 
 and not far from Bruce Castle, and near Bruce Grove 
 Station (7m. from Liverpool Street Station), but about 
 Hm. from Tottenham High Cross Station. It is of very 
 mixed architecture, but its look of antiquity and some 
 of its most interesting features were removed in a so- 
 called restoration in 1875, when, as Mr. Thorne feelingly 
 narrates, "a curious semicircular structure at the E. 
 end of the N. aisle" was removed. It formed a vestry 
 and entrance to a vault beneath for the family of Lord 
 Coleraine, d. 1708. There are three brasses, and many 
 monuments and tablets to local worthies and others. 
 The register begins in 1558. The living is a vicarage in 
 the gift of the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's, and worth 
 about 800/. a year. There are district churches at Seven 
 Sisters Eoad, Wood Green, Park Lane, and other parts 
 of the parish, but none of them remarkable ; also several 
 dissenting chapels, some of them handsome. 
 
 Tottenham still contains here and there an old house, or 
 some other vestige of its former rural felicity. The High
 
 102 EOUND ABOUT LO^"DON. 
 
 Cross, wljicTi jrives its name to the southern end of the 
 town, was built in brick about 1600 by Dean Wood, in 
 the place of a wooden cross, then much decayed. The 
 brickwork w^as beautified with stucco Gothic ornaments 
 in 1809. The eight sides bear each on a shield one letter 
 of the word " Totenham." It stands on the E. of the high 
 road, at the opposite side from the railway station. Near 
 it is a picturesque gabled house. 
 
 tieven ISisters Boad is still farther S. Here also is a 
 railway station. The name refers to seven elm trees, 
 now gone, but seven new trees^ have been planted near 
 the site. The road was lately quite rural, but is now 
 rapidly becoming a street. At the S.W. end is Finsbury 
 Park. {See Hornsey.) 
 
 Wood Green is at the N. extremity of the parish. The 
 railway station is 5m. from King's Cross, and is con- 
 venient for entrance to the Alexandra Park, which is 
 partly in this parish and partly in Hornsey. {See Walk- 
 ing Excursions, p. 119.) The almshouse of the Printers' 
 Pension Fund is not far from the church, on the W\ side 
 of the green, and there is a full dozen of similar institu- 
 tions in the neighbourhood. 
 
 Totteridge, Herts, N. 
 
 lOm.frora KIik/s Cross Stn. Pop. 481. 
 
 A village in the corner of Hertfordshire nearly sur- 
 rounded by Middlesex. The name probably refers to the 
 elevated position, {See under Teddington and Totten- 
 ham for remarks on the subject.) The church (St. 
 Andrew's) is on the highest point ; it was built in 1790, 
 and lately improved, but is not worth a visit, except for 
 a fine yew tree in the churchyard, under which is the 
 tomb of Lord Chancellor Cottenham, d. 1851. There are 
 some fine trees in the park ; the house is now a school. 
 Pichard Baxter, author of the "Saint's Eest," and Lady 
 Eachel Eussell, are among the eminent inhabitants. The 
 parish is a curacy dependent on Hatfield. The register 
 begins in 1570. 
 
 The pedestrian may obtain fine views by walking from 
 Totteridge Station to Edgware, along the high ground. 
 {See Edgware.)
 
 TWICKENHAM. 103 
 
 TunLham Green, Middlesex. 
 
 4:1m. from Hyd,e Park Corner. Pop. 3434. 
 A district of Chiswiek, and a station on the S.W.E., 
 but on the direct road from Hammersmith to Brentford. 
 The church was built in 1843. Lord Heathfield, the 
 hero of Gibraltar, died here in 1790. There are several 
 houses in the " Queen Anne " style now admired, but very 
 little else to delay the excursionist. 
 
 Twickenham, Middlesex. 
 
 lUm.from Waterloo Stn. Pop. 10,533. 
 
 A station at St. Margaret's will be found the most con- 
 venient for the group of villas known as Twickenham 
 Park. 
 
 History. — The meaning of the name has proved an in- 
 soluble problem. It occurs as early as 704. The manor 
 was originally part of Tsleworth. In the reign of Henry 
 YIII. it was annexed to Hampton Court. Charles L 
 gave it to his Queen. It was leased and sub-leased, and 
 though still nominally Crown land, is held by several 
 private owners. The manor house is close to the church. 
 Here Catherine of Aragon is said to have lived after her 
 divorce. Perhaps Aragon Close, a villa near, owes its 
 name to the tradition, which is, however, unsupported. 
 
 The Church (St, Mary's) is of several ages, but the 
 tower is the oldest part. The body of the church is of 
 brick, completed in 1715, but much altered a few years 
 ago when the interior fittings were made suitable to 
 modern taste. The monuments have been spared, how- 
 ever, and are very interesting. Observe, on the E. wall 
 Pope's monument to his parents, " et sibi," and the tablet 
 erected by Bishop Warburton, bearing the poet's lines, 
 "For one who would not be buried in Westminster 
 Abbey." Pope was buried in the middle aisle, d. 1744. 
 Kneller, the painter, d. 1723, was also buried in the 
 church, but without a monument. On the outer walls 
 are tablets to Pope's nurse, Mary Beach, d. 1725, and to 
 Kitty Clive, the actress, d. 1785. Many eminent people 
 are buried in the churchyard, including Admiral Byron, 
 author of a ' Narrative of the Loss of the Wager.' Among 
 the vicars have been Dr. Waterland, d. 1740, and Bishop 
 Terrick (see Fulham). The register begins in 1538, and
 
 104 BOUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 Lysons gives a long series of annotated extracts, to which 
 the reader is referred. 
 
 Twickenham abounds in villas, and it is not easy to take 
 them in any order. Beginning at the X. end of tiie parish, 
 near St. Margaret's Station, we may notice Tirickenlmm 
 Farlx, which is at the foot of Richmond Bridge, at the 
 right-hand side. There was a mansion here very early, 
 and Francis Bacon, afterwards Lord Vernlam, had a lease 
 of it from the Crown, and was visited here by Queen 
 Elizabeth in 1592. Three years later the property was 
 granted to him. He sold it shortly after. In the 17th 
 and 18th centuries it was inhabited by a number of emi- 
 nent persons successively, until in om- own day the house 
 was pulled dowm, and a cluster of villas arranged in roads 
 built in the park. 
 
 Crossing the road at the foot of Eichmond Bridge, a 
 footpath by the river's bank may be followed. The first 
 large house is Marble Hill, built by George II. for Lady 
 Sufi"olk, then Mrs. Howard. It was afterwards inhabited 
 by Mrs. Fitzherbert. From this point the view of Eich- 
 mond Hill, with the smooth lawns of Buccleuch House 
 at the water's edge, is worth observing. A convenient 
 seat has been placed at the side. Next we pass Little 
 Marble Hill, and reach the grounds of Orleans House, 
 now a club, but long the residence of the Orleans family, 
 having been rented by Louis Philippe and his brothers 
 until the restoration in 1814, and purchased by the same 
 prince nearly forty years later, when he found himself 
 once more in exile. He lived and died at Claremont, 
 but Orleans House was occupied by the Duke d'Aumale, 
 who filled it with his choice collection of books and 
 pictures, since removed to Chantilly, when the house 
 was once more abandoned. It is handsomely built of 
 red brick in a good style, and is surrounded by beautiful 
 grounds, in which are some fine cedars. Xext we come 
 to Mount Lebanon, where the I'rince de Joinville lived, 
 and next after it to York House, the residence, during 
 the same period of exile, of the Count of Paris. Here Lord 
 Chancellor Clarendon lived in the reign of Charles II., 
 and in a room still kno-^Ti by her name. Clarendon's 
 grand-daughter. Queen Anne, was born 1664. Immedi- 
 ately behind York House is the church. {See above.) 
 
 The next villa S. of the church is Eichmond House, 
 after it Poulet Lodge, then Eiversdale, and at last we 
 reach Pope's Yilla. The grounds have been greatly
 
 TWYTORD. 105 
 
 altered and the original house pulled down, so that it 
 retains few traces of the jDoet's occupation. He came to 
 live here in 1717, and died here 1744. In 1807 the place 
 was bought by a Lady How, who destroyed the house 
 and dug up the garden ; and the grotto, a passage under 
 the road behind the house, is almost all that remains of 
 Pope's time. Two or three smaller villas intervene, and 
 then we arrive opposite Stmivberry Bill (station 12m. 
 from Waterloo Station), where Horace Walpole, Earl of 
 Orford, lived for many years. It is much altered and 
 enlarged since his time, but the present owner, Lady 
 Waldegrave, has endeavoured to obtain as many as 
 possible of the art treasures which "Walpole had collected 
 here, and which were sold, owing to some family compli- 
 cations, in 1842. Strawberry Hill Gothic has become 
 proverbial. The grounds are necessarily confined, but 
 admirably laid out, and the garden parties are famous 
 among suburban entertainments. Here the Prince and 
 Princess of Wales have been repeatedly entertained, and 
 their portraits, by J. Sant, E.A., are in one of the rooms. 
 There are many other portraits,- and some fine pictures 
 in the house, to which admission may be obtained when 
 the family are away. A small house to the S. is Little 
 Strawberry Hill, which Walpole lent to Kitty Clive {see 
 above), and called Cliveden. There are many other villas 
 along both sides of the Teddington road, of which the 
 fullest description will be found in Mr. Thome's " Hand- 
 book," to which the reader is referred. 
 
 Whitton, a hamlet of Twickenljam, lies close to Houns- 
 low Heath, ^m. S. of Hounslow Station. At the K. side 
 is Kneller Hall, once the residence of Sir G. Kneller, the 
 painter, and now a training school for army bandsmen. 
 The grounds are extensive. 1 he church is modern. 
 
 Eel- Fie Island, otherwise Twickenham Eyot, is nearly 
 oj)posite York House. It is a favourite resort of boating 
 parties. There is another small island opposite Straw- 
 berry Hill. 
 
 Twyford, Middlesex, W. 
 
 2m. from Willesden Junction, Zlm.from Euston Square 
 Stn. Pop. 47. 
 
 The name probably indicates the existence of two fords 
 over the Brent ; it is sometimes called West Twyford, to 
 distinguish it from a hamlet of Willesden, and some- 
 times Twyford Abbey, from the tradition that on the site
 
 106 BOUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 of the manor house was formerly a religious foundation. 
 The house is modern, large, and handsome, in a Gothic 
 style. In the reign of Elizabeth, and until the time of 
 Lysons, the "Abbey " was the only house in the parish. 
 There are now eight, but with the exception of Perivale 
 (see) this is the smallest and least populous parish in the 
 neighbourhood of London. The church is very small, 
 ivy-covered, and in fair order. It contains a few monu- 
 ments. There is service on Sundays in summer, and the 
 "Abbey" tenant is expected to provide a clergyman. 
 For its out-of-the-world appearance, Twyford may be 
 thought worth a visit. It is easily reached from Acton 
 or Ealing, or by pleasant lanes from Willesden. 
 
 Upton, Essex, E. See West Ham. 
 
 "Walham Green, Middlesex, W. See Fulha3i. 
 
 Waltham, Essex. 
 
 ISm.from Liverpool Street Stn. Fop. 3150. 
 
 Sometimes known as Waltham Abbey, sometimes as 
 Waltham Holy Cross, bu-t not to be confused with Waltham 
 Cross, which is in Herts (see). The station is about Im. 
 W. of the town. 
 
 History. — The name signifies the '* home in the forest." 
 The church was founded at a remote period in honour of 
 a wooden cross said to have been brought from Somerset- 
 shire. The manor was given by Edward the Confessor 
 to his brother-in-law, Harold, Avho founded the Abbey, 
 with a house of secular canons. After Harold's death at 
 Hastings, 1066, his body was said to have been brought 
 to Waltham and buried in the church. In 1184 Henry II. 
 changed the monks for regular canons. The Abbot was 
 a peer of parliament till the dissolution, when his lands 
 were valued at about 10007. a year. The site and manor 
 were given to Sir Anthony Denny, one of Henry TIII.'s 
 executors. They have since passed through several 
 families. 
 
 The Chubch in its present state is only the nave of the 
 Abbey. It has been " restored" in an incongruous style 
 by Mr. Burgess, the eastern wall being ornamented with 
 carvings representing the fables of ^sop, imder a circular 
 window of a foreign Xorman type. The nave consists of 
 seven bays, with round arches, interesting as a very early 
 example of the so-called Norman style ; it is a question
 
 WALTHAM CROSS. 107 
 
 whether part of it at least was not built before the Con- 
 quest. Beside the S. aisle is a fine lady chapel of the 
 Dec. period, with a crypt. The roof of the main building 
 has been renewed. It is flat, painted by E. J. Poynter, 
 E.A., in panels representing the signs of the zodiac, the 
 months, &c. It is hardly less incongruous than the E. 
 end, but fine as a picture. There are two brasses of no 
 interest, and the mural monument of Sir Edmond Denny. 
 A tower was built at the W. end in 1556. It is worth 
 ascending, as it aifords a good view of the valley of the 
 Lea, and of the site of the Abbey buildings. The living is 
 a vicarage in the gift of trustees, ^vith an income of 200?. 
 The celebrated Thomas Fuller was incumbent, 1648 to 
 1658, and wrote a history of the parish. T. "Cranmer, 
 afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury, was tutor at 
 "Waltham when he proposed his solution of the divorce 
 question, which led to his subsequent advancement. 
 
 The only remains of the domestic buildings are a bridge 
 and gate a little way W. of the church. They lead into 
 the precincts. The mill, which belonged to the Abbey, 
 is old, but has no features of interest. 
 
 The town ckisters round the Abbey, seeming to have 
 originally been built on islands in the Lea. The Eoyal 
 Gunpowder Factory, about Jm. below the town, gives 
 employment to many of the inhabitants. The works 
 occupy an area of 200 acres, and about 30,000 tons of 
 powder are made annually. Extensive willow beds supply 
 the charcoal. It is difficult to obtain admission. 
 
 The Forest, which was part of that of Epping, has 
 almost disappeared, but the heights E. of the town are 
 still well wooded. It formerly covered a large tract E. 
 and N.E., but all that now remains are about 3000 acres. 
 {See Epping, Loughton, Chingford.) The monks had 
 rights of hunting and cutting wood, and Hemy YIII. 
 was often here for the enjoyment of the chase. 
 
 Waltham Cross, Herts. 
 
 loin, from Liverpool Street Stn. Fop. 3000. 
 
 The Cross lies i W. of the station, which also serves for 
 Waltham Abbey. (See.) 
 
 The place was probably known by the same name before 
 Edward I. built here one of the " Eleanor Crosses." The 
 road to the N. here branches to the right to the Abbey, 
 and another road joins it on the left from Enfield. The
 
 108 
 
 EOUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 Cross is in a poor state, although it was formerly by far 
 the finest of the twelve which Edward erected. It has 
 suffered much by injudicious attempts at restoration, 
 and little of its old beauty can be seen. It stands on the 
 E. side of the road. In the " Four Swans" Inn opposite, 
 the Queen's body is said to have lain, but the existing 
 house is much later in date. A new church was built in 
 1832; the parish is a district of Cheshunt, and the 
 living, which is of small value, is in the gift of the vicar 
 of the mother parish. 
 
 A visit to Waltham Cross and the Abbey may be con- 
 veniently made by a pedestrian in combination with 
 Enfield (see). The route is indicated on p. 46. 
 Walthamstow, Essex, E. 
 
 Q^m.from Liverpool Street Stn. Pop. 11,092. 
 
 May be reached by a short walk from Hoe Street Stn. 
 There are several other stations within easy reach. 
 
 Walthamstowe lies between Chingford on the N. and 
 Leyton on the S. among the hills, which border the E. 
 bank of the Lea. It derives its name, no doubt, from 
 its situation (see Waltham) in the forest. The parish 
 is still well wooded, and a favourite site for villa resi- 
 dences ; some date from the 17th century. 
 
 The Church (St. Mary's) is not interesting, though 
 ancient, but it contains four brasses, and several good 
 monuments. See the Monox chapel, and, in the chancel, 
 a monument by Stone, to Mary, Lady Merry, d. 1632. 
 The living is a vicarage in private patronage, and worth 
 600?. a year. The register begins in 16-45, and Lysons 
 names two persons who lived upwards of a century. 
 Some interesting discoveries of fossil remains have been 
 made in the meadows by the Lea, including the bones of 
 elephants, oxen, and horses, with flint implements. (See 
 Ilford, and Introduction, p. 9.) 
 
 Wanstead, Essex, E. 
 
 8m. from Liverpool Street Stn. Fop. 5119. 
 
 The village is ^m. S.E. from Snaresbrook Station; a 
 little E. of the road from London to Chigwell. 
 
 The forest stretches N. from Wanstead, which derives 
 its name probably from a "White House" within its 
 borders, or possibly, as Mr. Thorne suggests, from some 
 connection with the worship of Woden. The Eomans
 
 VTEST HAM. 109 
 
 had a station here, and remains of theii' period have been 
 found. The manor, which early belonged to the See of 
 London, was leased to various families, and came in the 
 18th century into the possession of Earl Tylney, from 
 whose heiress, Mrs. Pole Tylney Long Wellesley, it 
 passed to its present owner. Earl Cowley. The mag- 
 nificent house, with its spacious park, gardens, grottos, 
 lakes, avenues, a heronry, and every other adjunct to a 
 first-rate residence, was, owing to the extravagance of 
 the husband of the heiress, sold piecemeal, the house 
 pulled down, and its contents dispersed in 1822. 
 
 The village lies X. of the park, and the church (St. 
 Mary's) is within it. It is classical in design, having 
 been erected in 1787, but contains some monuments from 
 the old church, including the eflSgy of Sir Josiah Child, 
 ancestor of the Tylneys, d. 1699. The living is a rectory 
 in the gift of Lord Cowley, worth 600/. a year. There 
 is a district church (Chi-ist Church) on the green, built 
 in 1861. 
 
 Snareshrook (stn. 8m. from Liverpool Street Stn.) is a 
 hamlet of Wanstead, from which it is distant about Im. 
 N.^V. across the green. The Infant Orphan Asylum 
 is a large building W. of the railway. It accommodates 
 300 children, and was founded by Dr. Eeed in 1827. 
 
 At Lake House, S.W. of Wanstead Park, Thomas Hood 
 wrote his novel of ' Tylney Hall.' The house was origin- 
 ally built as a summer house to the park. 
 
 There are several asylums and charitable institutions 
 at AVanstead, and its high situation, nearness to town, 
 and the remains of the forest, render it a favourite resort 
 for holiday-makers. 
 
 Welling, Kent. See Wickham, East. 
 
 West Ham, Essex, E. 
 
 Stratford Stn., 4:m.fro7n Liverpool Street Stn. 
 Pop. 39,633. 
 
 Closely adjoins Stratford on the S.E. The parish com- 
 prised, before it was divided, a large tract, including 
 Stratford itself and Plaistow. It retains, in a wonderful 
 degi'ee, its rural character, especially about Upton, Im. 
 N.E., where is a good brick house of the 17th century. The 
 church (All Saints') is a compound of all styles, some-
 
 110 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 what injured in restoration in 1844, but still interesting, 
 and containing one brass and many monuments. Observe 
 the Norman clerestory. 
 
 West Ham Park was made public property in 1874, 
 through the generosity of the Gurney family, who con- 
 tributed 10,000?. towards its purchase. It has an area of 
 eighty acres, and was well laid out and planted by its late 
 owner, Mr. S. Gurney. He and his sister, Mrs. Fry, 
 hare left many memorials of their benevolence here. 
 
 The works of the Great Eastern Eailway Company, the 
 pumping station of the main drainage {see Barking), and 
 many large factories, render West Ham by no means 
 attractive to the excursionist. 
 
 "WTiitchurcli, Middlesex. 
 
 J/?i. S.W.from Edgujare, 11^ from King's Cross Stn. 
 Fop. 818. 
 
 A secluded parish, chiefly remarkable in former times 
 for Canons, a magnificent seat of the Duke of Chandos, 
 now X-)ulled dowTi. It is sometimes called Little Stanmore, 
 to distinguish it from Great Stanmore, the adjoining 
 parish N.W. (see). 
 
 The manor belonged to the priory of St. Bartholomew, 
 Smithfield, and since the dissolution has had a variety of 
 owners. During the residence of the Duke of Chandos at 
 Canons, the church (St. Lawrence) was pulled down, 
 except the tower, and rebuilt (1715-20) in a classical style. 
 It is decorated within with paintings of Scriptural sub- 
 jects by Italian artists, the ceiling being powdered with 
 stars, by Laguerre and Beluchi. The carved work is 
 very fine, perhaps by G. Gibbons. But the most inter- 
 esting feature is the organ, on which Handel played 
 while organist of the church, 1718-1721. He lived during 
 this time with the Duke, at Canons. On the X. side is a 
 mortuary chapel, in which the Duke and his two suc- 
 cessors are buried. He d. 1744 : see his statue with those 
 of two wives. A monument in the churchyard com- 
 memorates William Powell, d. 1780, parish clerk during 
 HandeVs residence here, a blacksmith by trade, the sound 
 of whose anvil is said to have suggested the " Harmonious 
 Blacksmith." (See Edgw^are.) The living is a rectory in 
 private patronage. The register begins in 1559.
 
 WEST WICKHAM. Ill 
 
 Wickham, East, Kent, S.E. 
 
 l^m.from Alhey Wood Stn., ISm.fi'om Charing Cross Stn. 
 Fop. 942. 
 Situated about Im. N. of the Dover road, which for- 
 merly passed through it. The village is old-fashioned 
 and quiet, but many of the persons employed at Wool- 
 wich, 2m. N.W,, live in it. The church is old, and, so 
 far, unrestored. There are said to be some frescoes of 
 the 13th century on the walls covered with whitewash. 
 There are two brasses. The living is a perpetual curacy 
 of the value of 1121. per annum, in private patronage. 
 
 Welling is partly in this parish and partly in Bexley. A 
 church of a temporary kind has been erected. The village 
 is without interest, but a handsome house in Danson 
 Park was built about 1770. Shooter's Bill, 446 ft. high, is 
 W. of the village, and bore in old times so bad a name for 
 robberies that Hasted derives the name of WeUing from 
 the words " well-end," but it is certainly a Saxon mark. 
 On the summit of the hill, which is a mass of London 
 clay, is Severndroog Castle, a monument erected in 1784 
 to commemorate Sir "W. James's gallantry at the taking 
 of a fortress of that name in India. The view from the 
 summit should be seen. The hill is a short walk along 
 the Dover road, E. of Blackheath {see). 
 
 Wickliani, West, Kent. 
 
 2hn.from BecJcenJmm Stn. Pop. 844. 
 
 The village, distinguished as West Wickham Street, is 
 some distance from the church. The situation is exceed- 
 ingly pleasant, between Addington and Hayes, and there 
 are several handsome houses, some, as the Court, of con- 
 siderable antiquity. Wickham House was designed by 
 Norman Shaw, A.B.A. At South Lodge, Chatham lived 
 for a time. (See Hayes.) Ohserve the great elm tree in the 
 village. 
 
 The Church (St. John the Baptist) was built in the 
 reign of Henry YII. by Sir H. Heydon, then lord of the 
 manor. An old lich-gate forms the entrance of the church- 
 yard. There are some good monuments of the Lennard 
 family, two brasses, and an incised slab. Ohserve the old 
 stained glass. The living is a rectory worth 480?. a year, 
 gross, in the gift of Colonel Lennard. 
 
 West Wickham Court is close to the church. It also
 
 112 HOUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 was erected by Sir H. Heydon. Tt has been altered and 
 enlarged, but retains its ancient character, and is a 
 charming example of the red brick manor house of the 
 15th century. The view of the Court from the church- 
 yard is worth seeing. 
 
 Willesden, Middlesex, N.W. 
 
 b^m.from Euston Square Stn. Pop. 15,869. 
 
 Owing to the convenient access by rail from all parts 
 of London, Willesden has been changed in a few years 
 from a place of rural seclusion into a bustling suburb. 
 The manor has always belonged to St. Paul's, but having 
 been divided in the 12th century, it furnishes titles for no 
 fewer than eight prebends, the principal being Jlarltsden^ 
 about |m. N. of the Junction Station. Brondeshury is 
 2m. S., and is wholly covered by the outskirts of London. 
 
 The Church (St. Maiy's) is ancient, but has suffered 
 much from additions and restorations. It can hardly be 
 recognized in Woodburn's view, taken in 1807. It con- 
 tains fragments of all styles since the Conquest. See the 
 font, probably Norman. There are five brasses and 
 several old monuments. The living is a vicarage in the 
 gift of the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's, and worth 
 320?. per annum, gross. 
 
 There are few old houses left, and, besides the church, 
 little to see ; but some pleasant walks through green 
 lanes remain, with good views of the hills S.W. 
 
 Wimbledon, Surrey, S.W. 
 
 Uni-from Waterloo Stn. Pop. 9087. 
 
 To reach the Common, ascend the hill from the Eailway 
 Station and pass through the town. 
 
 History. — Wihlandun was the site of a battle between 
 Ceawlin, King of AVessex, and Ethelbert, King of Kent, 
 in the year 5G8, when the Kentish men were defeated. 
 It is not certain, though very probable, that the battle- 
 field was at Wimbledon, where Cassar's Camp, so called, 
 existed until our own day, and is not yet perhaps wholly 
 obliterated. The place is not mentioned in D.S., when 
 it was part of the Archbishop's manor of Mortlake {see). 
 It was taken from Archbishop Cranmer by Henry YIIL, 
 and was held successively, among others, by Cromwell, 
 Earl of Essex, Queen Catharine Parr, Cardinal Pole, Sir
 
 WOODFORD. 
 
 113 
 
 C. Hatton, Sir T. Cecil, Queen Henrietta Maria, and 
 Sarah Duchess of Marlborough, who bequeathed it to her 
 grandson, John Spencer, ancestor of the present Earl 
 Spencer, who recently sold it. The manor house was 
 visited by many sovereigns, and has been repeatedly 
 engraved, but was taken down by the Duchess, and its 
 successor burnt in 1785, and never rebuilt. Swift, in his 
 letters, called it the finest place about London. The 
 Park has been almost all cut up into villas. 
 
 The Church (St. Mary's) was built, v^ith the exception 
 of the chancel, in 17Sf<, and rebuilt in 1833. In 1860 the 
 chancel suffered the same fate, and nothing now remains 
 of the old church. The chapel of AVimbledon House is 
 to the S. of chancel, and contains some monuments of the 
 Cecil's and others. There are some large tombs in the 
 churchyard. Observe the vault of Hopkins, a usurer, 
 immortalized by Pope. He made a will similar to that 
 of Thellusson, but it was set aside by the Lord Chancellor. 
 The register begins in 1573. The living is a vicarage, in 
 the gift of the Dean and Chapter of Worcester : income, 
 gross, 400/. There are three or more district churches. 
 
 The old village has disappeared in a crowd of villas. 
 One fine old house, in the occupation of Dr. H. Sand\sith, 
 C.B., is near the church, and several, worthy of notice by 
 admirers of " Queen Anne," are round the Common. In 
 one of them W. Wilberforce spent his boyhood while he 
 attended Wimbledon School. It is on the S. side. In 
 another, on the W. side, died J. Home Tooke, 1812. The 
 Common stretches X.W. towards Putney Common, which 
 it adjoins. On the W. side is "Cesar's Camp," now 
 almost obliterated by its o^^^ler, a Mr. Drax, who has been 
 restrained, when too late, by an injunction in Chancery. 
 A good summary of various opinions as to its origin may 
 be found in Mr. Thome's 'Environs,' vol. ii. p. 705, to 
 which the reader is referred. See the view S.W. towards 
 Coombe Wood, and S. towards the Epsom Downs. 
 
 For walks in the neighbourhood, see under Walking 
 Excursions, p. 119. 
 
 Woodford, Essex. 
 
 10 III. from Liverpool Street Sfn. Fop. 4611. 
 A large parish, the gi'eater part of which was within 
 the forest. (See Waltham and Epping, Sec.) Church 
 End is the village about the church (St. Margaret's), a 
 
 I
 
 114 EOUXD ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 poor little building of the early part of the present cen- 
 tury. A yew tree, said to he the largest within 12m. of 
 London, is in the churchyard. It measures 14 ft. at 3 ft. 
 from the ground, and spread in Woodbum's time, seventy 
 years ago, 180 feet. The living is a rectory, in the gift of 
 Earl Cowley ; net income, 450/. 
 
 Woolwich, Kent, S.E. 
 
 10m. from Charing Cross Stn. Pop. 35,557. 
 
 There are three stations at Woolwich, namely, the 
 Arsenal, the Dockyard, and the Town. The last is 
 reached from Liverpool or Fenchurch Street to North 
 Woolwich, and across the Thames by a ferry. 
 
 About 270 acres of this parish are situated on the 
 right, and 380 on the left, or Essex, bank of the river; 
 but North Woolwich is in Essex, and is not in the parish. 
 It used to be said that more wealth went through Wool- 
 wich than through any other place in the world, refer- 
 ring to its situation on both sides of the river below 
 London. 
 
 History. — The meaning of the name has not been 
 determined. The manor of Eltham was held to extend 
 over a great part of the parish. The first fact of import- 
 ance in the history of what was previously a mere village, 
 is the establishment of the Dockyard in the reign of 
 Henry VIII. The King here witnessed the launch of a 
 vessel of 1500 tons, 1515. In 1559 Queen Elizabeth also 
 witnessed a launch. Pepys frequently speaks of the 
 Dockyard, and complains of the extravagance of the 
 King's service there. After the introduction of steam 
 and ironclads, Woolwich Dockyard was found too small, 
 and was closed in 1869. The Arsenal is probably con- 
 temporary with the Dockyard, which it has survived. It 
 is the only one in the kingdom, and occupies several 
 hundred acres here and in Plumstead, the powder maga- 
 zines being some distance off in the Marshes. 
 
 The Church (St. Mary Magdalen) is well situated on 
 an eminence in the middle of the to^na. It was built in 
 1726-39, and is plain and ugly. There is a monument in 
 the churchyard to Tom Cribb, the boxer, d. 184^=. The 
 living is a rectory in the gift of the Bishop of Rochester, 
 and worth 800/. a year, gross. The register dates from 
 1670. There are many district churches and chapels; 
 the Garrison Chapel (St. George's) being worth a visit
 
 WOOLWICH. 115 
 
 from the fantastic but not altogether unsuccessful attempt 
 of its architects, Messrs. Wyatt, to adapt the Italian 
 Gothic style to modern materials and requirements. 
 
 The great object of interest in Woolwich is, of course, 
 the Arsenal. To visit it an order must be obtained from 
 the War OflBce, Pall Mall, by written or personal apj)li- 
 cation. Foreigners can only apply through their consuls 
 or ambassadors. Visitors are admitted on Tuesdays and 
 Thursdays only, between 10 and 11.30, or between 2 and 
 4.30 : but as to see everything requires upwards of two 
 hours, morning visitors can arrange to return the same 
 day by notice when their tickets are given up. 
 
 There are four departnients : 1. The Laboratory; 
 2, The Gun Factory ; 3. The Carriage Factory ; and 'l. 
 The Stores. The chief objects of interest may be briefly 
 enumerated as follows, under each department : — 
 
 1. The Laboratory. It contains tne Pattern Eoom, 
 worth seeing, containing all kinds of shot, cartridges, ^^c. 
 — the Workshop, the Cap Factory, the Piifle Factory, and 
 the Saw Mill. 
 
 2. The Gun Factory, where the " Woolwich Infants " 
 are made, consists of the Coiling 3Iill, the Great Furnace, 
 the Xasmyth Hammer, weight 40 tons, and various other 
 places connected with gun-casting. This is by far the 
 most interesting part of the Arsenal, and the visitor 
 whose time is limited will do well to confine his attention 
 to it alone. 
 
 3. The Carriage Department contains saw-mills, lathes, 
 a main forge, in which are sixty forges ; the great shears, 
 the Moncrielf gun carriage, the Wheel Factory, the Shoe- 
 ing or Fire Pit, and a Pattern Ptoom, as in the other 
 departments. 
 
 4. The Stores, chiefly remarkable as exciting the 
 visitor s wonder at the enormous quantity of materials 
 accumulated for purposes of destniction. 
 
 The Garrison Buildings are to the S. of the Arsenal. 
 They include the church already mentioned, and op- 
 posite the central building a Crimean Memorial by Bell, 
 which cannot be much praised. On the W. side is a 
 Eotunda, in which is the Artillery Museum, which is well 
 worth seeing. It is open to visitors every day, without 
 tickets, except for' an hour between 1 and 2, The armour 
 is only second to that in the Tower of London. See the 
 suit said to have belonged to the Chevalier Bayard, a 
 
 I 2
 
 116 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 cannon of the 14tli century, such as is seen in illumina- 
 tions of Froissart; foreign and Oriental cannons, early 
 breech-loaders, rifles of the 16th century, relics of the 
 " Eoyal George," and many other objects very similar to 
 those in the Tower. 
 
 The Royal Military Academy is on the side of the 
 Common, rather more than im. from the Museum. 
 The building was designed by Wyattville. Here the 
 Duke of Connaught was educated. The Common is used 
 for exercising troops, but the public have access to it. 
 
 Woolwicli, Nortli, Essex, E. 
 
 Q^m.from Fenchurch Street Stn. Pop. 4000. 
 Generally but erroneously described as part of Kent. 
 The marshes to the E. are reckoned in Kent, but North 
 Woolwich is in the parish of West Ham and county of 
 Essex. The Yictoria Docks are close to the little town, 
 and a great proposed extension eastward to Gallion's 
 Eeacli will make an island of the ground on which it 
 stands. The N. Woolwich Gardens are a summer resort. 
 There is a pier, from which a steam ferry crosses the 
 river to Woolwich. St. John's, and several other churches, 
 belong either to East Ham or to Woolwich, according to 
 their situation E. or W. of the town.
 
 SOME SPECIMENS OF 
 
 WALKIjSTG- EXCURSIOISrS, 
 
 Limited to 6 miles, or thereabouts, and suitable for 
 half-holidays. 
 
 BAHNET. 
 
 1. From High Barnet Stn., through Chipping Barnet 
 Street, up the hill, past the church (p. IS) by Hadley 
 (p. 57) to Hadley Wood; thence by Beech Hill and 
 Trent Parks (p. 48) to the Eidge Eoad, and S. to Old 
 Park Stn., or by Baker Street to "Enfield (p. 47). — About 
 
 2. From Mill Hill Stn., Great Northern Eailway, by 
 Highwood Hill (p. 84) to East Barnet and Barnet Eailway 
 Stn. — About 52 m, 
 
 BI10MI.EY. 
 
 1. Through Shortlands (p. 21), Langiey Park, and 
 Wickham Street (p. Ill) to Addington. Thence {i^ee p. 14) 
 by several alternative routes to Croydon (p. '6b). — About 
 6^m. 
 
 2. To Lettish AM. {See Chislehurst, No. 3.) 
 
 3. To CmsLEHURST. {See Chislehurst,_No. 4.) 
 
 4. To Okpixgtox. {See Chislehm'st, No. 5.) 
 
 5. BECKEXHAii. {See Chislehurst, No. 6.) 
 
 6. To Hayes (p. 66), 2m. thence to Orpington. {See 
 Chislehurst, No. 5.) 
 
 CHISLEHURST. 
 
 1. By tram to Chislehm-st (p. 31). Thence S.E. 2m. 
 to St. Mary Cray (p. 33), and N.E. by the valley of the 
 Cray, through St Paul's Cray, Im. (p. 34) ; Foot's Cray, 
 llm., and North Cray to Bexley Stn., 2m. (p. 23).— 
 About 6im. 
 
 2. Or Wn S. at St. Mary Cray, and 2m. to Orpington 
 Stn. 
 
 3. From Chislehurst Eailway Stn. turn W. over the 
 hill to Bickley, Widmore, and Bromley (p. 25), 2m.
 
 118 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 Thence N. by Bromley High Street to Southend and 
 Lewisham (p. 80) 4m.— About 6m. 
 
 4. From Chislehurst Common through Sundridge by 
 Elmsted Lane, and thence S.W. to Bromley (p. 25) Stn., 
 about 3m. These two walks (Nos. 3, 4) may be com- 
 bined by using a return ticket from Chislehurst, and omit- 
 ting the walk to Lewisham. 
 
 5. From Chislehurst to Bromley Stn., through Bromley 
 High Street S., either over Hayes Common (p. 66) or 
 (p. 25) to Keston Lodge (p. 74), and turning E. through 
 Crofton Woods to Orpington Stn. — 5m. from Bromley, or 
 61 from Chislehurst. 
 
 6. Chislehurst, Bromley, to Shortlands and Beckenham 
 (p. 21).— About 4^m. 
 
 DULWICH. 
 
 1. Dulwich (p. 39) by Penge Eoad to Sydenham Hill 
 and Crystal Palace (p. 99), 2m. Past the Crystal Palace 
 to Norwood Church, Im. Turn right down Beulah Hill 
 to Lower Streatham (p. 98), Streatham Common, Tooting 
 Common (p. 99), Bedford Hill to Balham Stn. — About 
 6|m. 
 
 2, By Dulwich Lane to Forest Hill, Sydenham (p. 99) 
 by Perry Hill to Bushey Green and Lewisham (p. 80). — 
 About 5m. 
 
 GREENWICH. 
 
 1. By river steamer to Greenwich (p. 59), passing 
 Deptford (p. 38). On foot through Greenwich Hospital, 
 up the hill, over Blackheath, to Morden College (p. 29). 
 Thence by Kidbrook Church, over the green and fields S.E. 
 to Well Hall. Thence due S. to Eltham (p. 44). Thence 
 S. to the Stn. — About of m. 
 
 2. Back from Eltham Palace by Middle Park (p. 46) to 
 the Lee Eoad (Eltham Eoad, Lee) and Lee Stn. (p. 80). 
 — About 2fm. 
 
 3. From Eltham Street (p. 44), turning to the S. oppo- 
 site Eltham Park, across the railroad, and up the hill to 
 Chislehurst Common (p. 31) and on past Camden Place 
 to Chislehurst Stn. — About 6xm. 
 
 4. Through Charlton (p. 28), Woolwich (p. 114), Plum- 
 stead (p. 89), Bostall Hill, to Abbey Wood Stn. (p. 13).— 
 About 6im.
 
 WALKING EXCTJKSIONS. 119 
 
 HIGHGATE. 
 
 1. From Holloway Stn., up Highg:ate Hill (p. 68), by 
 the road along the ridge to the " Spaniards," and on to 
 Hampstead (p. 59), 4m., returning to town by Kilburn, 
 IJm. farther (p. 61). 
 
 2. To Hornsey (p. 70), by Crouch End (p. 71), and 
 thence to Muswell Hill (p. 70), returning by train from 
 Wood Green (p. 102). — About o^m. 
 
 KEW. 
 
 1. From Kew Stn, (p. 74), through the Gardens to 
 Eichmond (p. 92). Over the bridge to Twickenham 
 (p. 103) ; along the Thames bank, past Strawberry Hill 
 to Teddington (p. 100) ; to the X. gate of Bushey Park, 
 through the Horse Chestnut Avenue to Hampton Court 
 (p. 61) ; home by Hampton Court Stn., East Molesey 
 (p. 61).— About 6|m. 
 
 PLUMSTEAD. 
 
 From Plumstead Stn. (p. 89) by the church to Bostall 
 Heath; thence keeping Abbey Wood (p. 13) on the left, 
 to Belvedere ; thence to Erith (p. 90). — About 4m. 
 
 RICHMOND. 
 
 1. Through Eichmond (p. 92), Eichmond Park, S.E. to 
 Coombe Wood Stile ; through Coombe Wood (p. 76) to 
 Wimbledon, and Wimbledon Stn. (p. 112).— About 6m. 
 
 2. From Mortlake Stn., by East Sheen (p. 85) to the 
 Sheen Gate, Im. across the Park, 2m. to Ham Common 
 (p. 78), returning through Petersham (p. 87) to Eichmond 
 Stn. — About 5m.
 
 120 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 EXCURSIONS 
 
 Beyond the Twelve-mile Circle to 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Hatfield 120 
 
 Knole 122 
 
 St. Albans 124 
 
 "Windsor 129 
 
 Bishop's Hatfield, Herts. 
 
 11 ^m. from Kinr/s Cross Stn. Pop. 3998. 
 
 The railway to Hatfield crosses the 12m. circle at 
 AVrotham Park, left. (.See Hadley.) Potters Bar and 
 South Mims Stn. is at 12im. ; at 13J m, Hertfordshire is 
 entered ; Hatfield Park comes down to the railway 3m. 
 farther, and lim. beyond is Hatfield itself. .See on right 
 the ^iew of the hill on which the house stands, imme- 
 diately before entering the station. The town is on a 
 steep slope, and is not very interesting, but a few old or 
 picturesque houses are in the main street. On tlie right 
 near the summit is the church, and close behind are the 
 trees of the Park, the entrance to which is by an old 
 gateway immediately in front. 
 
 History. — The name clearly refers to the situation on 
 the top or " heal " of the hill. The addition of " Bishops " 
 is explained by the fact that after Hatfield had for many 
 centuries — traditionally, from the time of King Edgar, 
 959-975 — ^belonged to the Abbey of Ely: the Abbot in 
 1108 was made Bishop of Ely, and Hatfield became one 
 of his country seats. In 1538 Henry ATII. exchanged it 
 with Bishop Goodrich, and the house was used by 
 Edward YI. as an occasional residence. The early years 
 of Elizabeth were spent at Hatfield, who lived here in a 
 kind of captivity during Queen Mary's reign. She is 
 said to have been reading under an oak, still pointed out 
 in the Park, when the news of her accession was brought. 
 As this was late in November, 1558, she must have been
 
 EXCURSIONS. 
 
 121 
 
 of a hardy constitution. Ten years later she again 
 visited Hatfield. In 1603 James I. gave it to Sir Eobert 
 Cecil, younger son of Queen Elizabeth's Minister, Lord 
 Bui'leigh, and Lord Treasurer, in exchange for Theo- 
 balds. He built the house between 1605 and 1611, and 
 it has since remained in the possession of his descendants, 
 the Earls and Marquesses of Salisbury. In 1835 the W. 
 -wing was burnt, the Dowager Marchioness perishing in 
 the flames ; but it has been rebuilt. 
 
 The church derives its dedication to St. Etheldreda 
 from Ely Cathedral. It is well worth a visit, though it 
 has suffered terribly by " restoration." It is large, and, 
 if anything, too well lighted, and the newness conferred 
 on it by Mr. Brandon, the architect, conveys an un- 
 pleasing impression. The old church had Norman features, 
 but was mainly Decorated ; but the spire, exterior walls, 
 porch, roof, chancel arch, reredos, and windows are new. 
 Indeed, it would not be easy to find any old features. 
 The pulpit was given by Mr. Wynn Ellis, whose pictm'es 
 were bequeathed to the National Gallery. Like the 
 reredos, it has a foreign and unsatisfactory, but gorgeous, 
 appearance. The Salisbury Chapel contains the Lord 
 Treasurer's monument, Italian in design, but very fine. 
 He d. 1612, and is represented in his robes of office. 
 On the opposite side of the chancel is the Brocket, or 
 rather the Ponsbourne, Chapel, in which some former 
 owners are commemorated. 
 
 The House is approached from the town by an arch- 
 way, in which is the porter's lodge. The first court is of 
 the time of the Bishops, and is built of red brick, in a 
 simple style of Gothic. The whole house was in the same 
 style in the time of Elizabeth. Opposite the entrance is 
 the Bishop's Hall, now strangely used as a stable, and fitted 
 with staUs. See the open timber roof. It has been re- 
 marked that since the time of Caligula no horses have 
 been so well lodged. Passing out of this court we reach 
 the N. front. See the avenue on the left, f m. long, lead- 
 ing out beyond the to-«Ti to the Lea. The facade was 
 designed by Thorpe, according to the best judges. The 
 central tower, 70 ft. high, bears in its parapet the date 
 1611, and is decorated mth the arms of the first Earl, The 
 whole design includes a central building and two vdngs 
 in the form of half an H, the wings projecting towards 
 the S., so as to enclose three sides of a court. The State
 
 122 ROUND ABOUT LONDON, 
 
 Booms consist of the Hall, 50 ft. by 30; the Grand Staiv' 
 case, with cai'ved balustrades and heraldic beasts bearing 
 shields ; the Gallery, 163 ft. by 20 {see the plaster ceiling") ; 
 the Great Charaher {see the chimney-piece, with statue of 
 James I/i;the Library, a handsome room, containing, 
 among other literary curiosities, the State papers and 
 letters of the first Cecils. The family portraits scattered 
 through the rooms are too numerous to be described in 
 detail. See the Lord Treasurer and his elder brother, 
 the Earl of Exeter, said to be by Zucchero ; Mary, first 
 ]\Iarchioness of Salisbury, by Heynohh, and curious pic- 
 tures of Queen Elizabeth, Mary Queen of Scots, the 
 Countess of Eichmond, mother of Henry TIL, and others, 
 some of very doubtful authenticity. The Park is beauti- 
 fully varied and undulating. The gardens should be seen, 
 if only for the views they afi'ord of the house, sometimes 
 rising above the trees and clipped hedges, tne rich red 
 of the brickwork harmonizing with the dark-green yews ; 
 sometimes reflected in the calm water of a sheltered pond. 
 Evelyn (' Diary,' i. 43) speaks with praise of the " well 
 watered and planted " garden and vineyard of his time. 
 The first Marchioness (mentioned twice above) was a 
 noted agriculturist, and had a little farm of seventeen acres 
 for experiments. 
 
 Hatfield is enough for one day's excursion, but may, if 
 time is valuable, be taken in the afternoon in combination 
 with a visit to St. Albans in the morning. {See St. 
 Albans Excursion, p. 124.) 
 
 Knole, Kent. 
 
 Im.from SevenoaJcs Stn., 22m. fro7n Charing Cross Stn. 
 
 There are charming views along the line on both sides 
 after New Cross is passed. At Chislehurst Stn. {see) the 
 church spire on the right is that of Bickley (p. 26). A 
 few miles further is Orpington Stn. See the view, left, 
 along the valley towards St. Mary Cray (p. 33). A long 
 cut'ting ends at Chelsfield Stn., 15^m., after which two 
 tunnels conduct the railway through the chalk hills to 
 Halstead Stn., 17m., whence may be seen, on right, the 
 woods of Chevening, and a long valley running towards 
 Westerham. Dunton Green is 2^m. farther, and from 
 here, on left, may be seen the village and church of 
 Otford, where the Ai'chbishops had a palace, of which a
 
 EXCURSIONS. 123 
 
 tower, visible from the line, remains. On the bare hills in 
 the distance, left, is Wrotham, where they had another 
 house. In front is the hamlet of St. John's, a district 
 of Sevenoaks, where there is a station (L.C.D.E., from 
 Victoria 25f m.). On right, after passing Dunton Green, 
 see Riverhead, a pretty village, near which are Chipsted 
 Place, and Montreal, the seat of Earl Amherst. The 
 Station at Sevenoaks is at the foot of the hill on which 
 the town stands, but villas have recently been built all 
 along the road to the top. The street contains some 
 handsome old houses, one on the right, before reaching 
 the church, being probably Elizabethan. The church 
 (St. Xicholas) is on the right. It is large and handsome. 
 There are some good monuments, including a tablet to 
 "W. Lambarde, d. 1601, who wrote a 'Perambulation of 
 Kent,' formerly in Greenwich Church, but removed here 
 1718. There are also some quaint epitaphs on grave- 
 stones. It is worth while to ascend the lofty tower, as 
 it affords a charming view over Knole Park, and, among 
 the sand-hills towards Brasted, Sundridge, and Wester- 
 ham. Nearly opposite the church is the entrance to 
 Knole Park, a modest swing gate ; and just beyond it, 
 on the same side, the Grammar School, founded in 1418 
 by Sir W. Sevenoak, Lord Mayor of London, son of W. 
 Eumsched, whose change of name has led to his being 
 usually described as a foundling. The most remarkable 
 scholar was George Grote, the historian. 
 
 Knole Park is now only open to the public under great 
 restrictions. It must be allowed that too much advantage 
 was taken of it for school feasts and other excursionist 
 parties from London. But from the paths, to which a 
 visitor is confined, much that is of interest and beauty 
 may be seen without trespass. The house was mainly 
 built by Abp. Bourchier, d. 1486, and Thomas Sackville, 
 Earl of Dorset, d. 1608, and is a quaint mixture of the 
 Perp. Gothic of the 15th century and the early Italian 
 or Classical style of the 17th century. The front, seen 
 from the approach, is of the later period, except the gate. 
 There is a fine oriel in the Inner Gate, at the opposite 
 side of the first or Green Court, with the badge of Abp. 
 Bourchier among its decorations. The Inner Court is 
 cliiefly of Lord Dorset's building, and has his initials on 
 the lead pipes. The Hall is of Bourchier s work, as is 
 the Chapel and a room for a chaplain bearing his motto
 
 124 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 over the mantel-piece. The rooms foraierly shown were 
 the Broiun GaUenj, 88 ft. long; Lady Betty Genmdne's 
 Chamber; the Spangled Bedroom; the Billiard Boom, a 
 continuation of the Gallery; the Venetian Bedroom \ the 
 Oryaa Boom, forming a kind of Gallery for the Chapel, 
 and hung with fine old tapestry ; the Ball Boom, hung 
 with full-length portraits of great interest ; the Dining 
 Boom, below the Ball Eoom, also hung with a large 
 collection of portraits of poets ; a suite of Draiuing Booms, 
 ending in the so-called Cartoon Gallery^ in which poor 
 copies from Bapliad's cartoons have displaced a magni- 
 ficent series of pieces of tapestry of early German work. 
 As admission is now denied, the visitor must content 
 himself with seeing the exterior. Start from the entrance 
 towards the N. At the corner observe a fine barn of the 
 Archbishop's time, and on the other hemd the "Duchess 
 Walk," an oak avenue. Proceed E., passing entrance to 
 Wood Court, and observing curious medley of styles. In 
 theX.E, corner was a "gaol" for the Archbishop's servants. 
 Farther on, a pleasant avenue of beeches leads to the end 
 of the ancient "Pleasance," where turn S., not failing to 
 look on left at the fine old trees. About midway along 
 this side, observe, through the railings, fine view of the 
 E. front, and a pointed doorway leading into the Water 
 Court. Then following the wail along the S. side, a gate 
 is reached from which a good view can be had of the 
 fine bay windows of the garden ft'ont. They are the 
 windows of the Cartoon Gallery. 
 
 The Bark is full of fine old trees, many of which may 
 be seen without trespassing from the path. Turning left 
 from the entrance gate, observe the giant beeches. The 
 avenue past them leads to a stile in the Park, by which 
 access may be had to the street of Sevenoaks. 
 
 If time permits, it is worth while to walk through the 
 town along the S. road, or to go by a path through the 
 Park, to the brow of the hill overlooking the Weald. 
 The view is probably unequalled in England. 
 
 St. Albans, Herts. 
 
 20m. from St. Bancras Stn. Bop. 8298. 
 The route from Euston Square Station is 4m. longer, 
 but the station at St. Albans is nearer the touTi. To see 
 the place well, both stations may be used — one for arrival 
 and the other for departure — but some trains from the 
 London and North- Western Station go to the Great
 
 EXCURSIONS. 125 
 
 Nortliern Station, and should be inquired for, as the line 
 between the two stations is interesting. 
 
 History. — The Abbey, round which the town grew up, 
 was founded by Offa II., King of Mercia, in 793, to com- 
 memorate the supposed discovery of the bones of a 
 Eoman martyr, beheaded in 296. It is recorded by 
 the venerable Bede that a church in St. Alban's honour 
 already existed. The Abbey stood in the parish of St. 
 Andrew. The story of the discovery of relics is not 
 worth sifting. A Roman cemetery was iDrobably on 
 the hill, outside the walls of the ancient Veridam, and 
 here bones would be found in the 8th century without 
 much difficulty. The first Abbot, Willigod, was of the 
 blood royal, as were the second and third. Paul, of 
 Caen, in Normandy, was brought over by William I., 
 1077, and the subsequent Abbots of most note were 
 John of Berkhamstead, 1291 ; Thomas de la Mare, 1349 ; 
 John de la Moote, 1396; John Whethamsted, 1420-1451; 
 Thomas Wolsey, 1521; and Richard Boreman, who 
 surrendered the Abbey to Henry Till. The Abbey 
 lands w^ere among the richest in England, and would 
 be worth, at the modern rate, about 300,000/. a year. 
 The buildings were pulled down in a search for treasure, 
 and even the church would have been destroyed had 
 not the townspeople bought it to use as a substitute for 
 St. Andrew's, which had stood on the N. side, but was 
 pulled down in the wreck of the Abbey. The Abbot and 
 twenty monks survived to be reinstated by Queen Mary. 
 They were again turned out, and the work of destruction 
 completed under Elizabeth and James I., and now only 
 the gateway survives of the domestic buildings. The 
 town has never been of importance, but a royal hunting 
 lodge stood where Kingsbury Tower is now. The old 
 tower, a picturesque but dilapidated building in the 
 market place, was ruthlessly destroyed a few years ago, 
 under the name of " restoration." Restoration has also 
 attacked the Abbey, where the great tower was in danger 
 of falling. It has been saved, but the look of antiquity 
 was sacrificed. The latest event in the histoiy of 
 St. Albans is the formation of a new bishopric, of which 
 the Abbey church has been made the cathedral, the town 
 being promoted to the rank of a city by royal patent, 
 1877. The Bishop of Rochester has been translated to 
 the new See. 
 
 As a walk over the site of Yerulam is indispensable.
 
 126 
 
 ROrXD ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 the visitor is recommended to husband his resources by 
 not going over the ground twice. Ascending the hill 
 from the London and Xorth-AVestern Railway Station, 
 he will observe on the right Sopwell Lane, leading to tlie 
 ruins of a Xunnery, over which the literary and sporting 
 author of the ' Boke of St. Albans," Juliana Berners, was 
 prioress. The ruins are hardly worth a visit, and may 
 be seen on the branch railway on the way to Hatfield. 
 (■See p. 122.) In the Key Field, between the town and 
 the priory, was fought the first battle of St. Albans, 
 1455. Passing on up Holywell Hill, (Merve on left a 
 fine view of the E. end of the Abbey. On the right is the 
 "Peahen," an ancient hostelry, still containing some Perp. 
 features. Here tradition says Henry Till, and Anne 
 Bullen were privately married. Leaving the Abbey behind 
 for the present we pass through the market place, observing 
 Kingsbury Tower (.see previous page) on left. About 
 100 yards farther X. is a road to the right, Marlborough 
 Lane. Here seethe Almshouses, good examples of Queen 
 Anne, endowed by Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough. Here 
 was previously the Manor House, a school in which Dr. 
 Doddridge was educated. Opposite the Almshouse a gate 
 leads into the churchyard of St. Peter's, a curious-looking 
 church, which has been already visible from the market 
 place. The bodies of the knights killed in 1455 and 1461, 
 in the two great battles between the partisans of York 
 and Lancaster, were buried in the church, but the chancel 
 and transepts were pulled down at the beginning of this 
 century and their monuments destroyed. The second 
 battle took place on Barnard's Heath, just beyond the 
 church. There is little to see in the church, lieturning 
 by the W. side of the market place, observe, left, some 
 quaint houses, spared when Kingsbury was restored. 
 On reaching George Street, turn right, looking for views 
 of the Abbey through the archways on the left. At the 
 end of the street is Pome Land, an open space, as its 
 name {room land) denotes. Here George Tankerville, a 
 Protestant, was burned, 1555. Observe fine view of the 
 Abbey. The church of St. Andrew stood in the church- 
 yard, left. Passing by the Abbey, proceed to the gate, 
 the fine Perp. building about fifty yards W. of the church. 
 This was a gaol for many years, but King Edward's 
 Grammar School was recently removed to it from the 
 Lady Chapel. The gate led to the chief coui't of the
 
 EXCURSIONS. 127 
 
 Abbey ; in the field beyond it the hillocks mark the site 
 of the domestic buildings. Ohserve fine view of nave 
 from the S. It is the longest cathedral in England, being 
 535 feet from the W. door to the E. end of the Lady 
 Chapel. Canterbury Cathedral is 514 feet. There is a 
 path along the south side, which leads past the transept 
 to the entrance. Observe a fine yew tree in the open 
 space before the door. Here stood cloisters and a chapter 
 house. See the ancient brickwork in the walls. A 
 passage leads through the church between the E. end 
 and the Lady Chapel to the town. The chapel is under- 
 going restoration, and is not open to the public. It was 
 an interesting building, panelled, and containing much 
 curious sculpture. The removal of the panelling has not 
 revealed much that was not visible before, and the look 
 of newness the chapel is rapidly acquiring cannot be 
 admired. The windows have suffered much, as the old 
 tracery was very fine. In a cupboard in this chapel, 
 ■while it was a school, Mr. Blades discovered some rare 
 books and fragments printed by Caxton. 
 
 Eeturning to the entrance of the church by the yew 
 tree, the south aisle of the choir is reached. Ohseo've in 
 front the blue and gold iron " grylle," by which a sight 
 was afforded to pilyrims of the shrine of St. Alban. The 
 arched tomb is that of Duke Hurayjhrey of Gloucester, 
 brother of Henry T., d. 1447. The Saint's Chapel is 
 entered by some steps. The fragments of the shrine, 
 a fine work of the 13th century, were discovered 
 among the masonry filling up various archways, and 
 have been cleverly put together, without any iittempt at 
 falsification under the name of restoration, by Mr. 
 Chappie, clerk of the works. Observe sculpture at the 
 \\'. end, representing the beheading of St. Alban ; also 
 the Watch Tower of carved oak, in which guards were 
 constantly placed to prevent any robbery of the ofl'erings 
 at the shrine. Two doors led through the screen, as at 
 "Westminster Abbey, to the choir. Here see on right, 
 K. side, the fine chantry of Abbot Eamryge, appropriated 
 as a burial place by the Ffarington family, /bee on S. 
 side similar but plainer chantry of Abbot Wheathampsted, 
 d. 1463, in which is deposited the fine Flemish brass of 
 Abbot de la Mare, d. 1396. The floor is almost covered 
 with brasses, or stones in which brasses have been laid. 
 The new tiling is extremely unpleasant and incongruous,
 
 128 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 especially to those who remember the old. Ohserve the 
 roof of wooden gToininj^, finely painted. The pulpit 
 formerly stood at the X.E. corner. It was of oak, hand- 
 somely carved, but has been removed by the restorers. 
 *b'ee the great arches, Xorman or earlier work. The N.E. 
 pier gave way some years ago, and has been rebuilt with 
 success by Sir G. G-. Scott. The transepts (Xoiman, 
 possibly Saxon) have been entirely scraped, plastered, 
 and otherwise illtreated, and present now an appearance 
 of newness quite deceptive. At the end of the S. transept 
 see a fine door and remains of the entrance to the Abbot's 
 lodgings. x\t the N. end of the transept is a door leading 
 to the staircase to the top of the tower. It is worth 
 while to ascend, as the view is very fine. The tower is 
 144: feet high. Ohn'-rve the heaped-up brickwork. The 
 bricks were brought from the old Eoman city in the 
 valley below. The nave is of three periods. The whole 
 northern side is Xorman. Ohserve the paintings on the 
 piers, discovered by Mr. Waller. The south side is Dec, 
 of great richness, but unfinished at W. end. The E. 
 part was built between 1323 and 1349. The mouldings 
 of four arches rest on heads, said to be those of Edward 
 III., his queen, the Abbot of St. Albans, and his prior. 
 Observe the shields above ; they are the arms of Mercia, 
 England, Edward the Confessor, and the Abbey. The 
 roof is flat. Part of it has been cleared of the black and 
 wiiite paint, and is found to contain fine heraldic and 
 other decorations. There is a record over the west door 
 of the removal of the courts from Westminster to St. 
 Albans, owing to the plague in 1543 and 1589. There 
 are several curious monuments and epitaphs. Ohserve 
 that on easternmost column in honour of John Jones, 
 d. 1686 ; and one on Thomas Sheppard, d. 1776. The 
 W. porch is very fine, of the E.E. period, 1195-1214, 
 and so far unrestored. 
 
 Leaving the church by the W. door, cross to the 
 gateway already described. Thence proceed by Eome- 
 iand Hill, ^m. to St. Michael's Church, which stands 
 on the site of Verulam. The church was in a very 
 dilapidated state until 1^-67, when all traces of antiquity 
 were as far as possible removed, and with them all that 
 was picturesque or interesting. There are still, however, 
 Eoman bricks in the masonry, and the tower, of very 
 patched work, has been spared. Observe the gable of a
 
 WINDSOR. 129 
 
 south chapel with half-timbered work, an imitation of 
 what really existed before the " restoration." The modern 
 buttresses are very disfiguring. The interior is so much 
 disguised with new plaster and new woodwork as not to 
 be worth a visit, except for the sake of Bacon's monu- 
 ment. He is represented in his chair, and with his hat 
 on, and the epitaph below contains the words " Sic sede- 
 bat" (So he sat). He died in 1624 at Highgate. (See.) 
 All the woodwork, &c., which could have been of his 
 time, includiug a pew said to be his, were removed by 
 the restoration, but his arms are in an adjoining window. 
 
 From St. Michael's return a few yards, observing the 
 gate of Gorhambuiy on the left, and passing through a 
 stile on right follow a path along the Yer. The slope 
 on the right was the site of Verulam. Observe fragments 
 of walls. Crossing the river by a foot-bridge, tui'n S. 
 by a pretty walk, observing on right the massive frag- 
 ments of Eoman masonry, and, left, the deep fosse. At 
 the summit of the slope tui-n left along the ridge, and 
 observe the fine views of the town and cathedral on the 
 opposite hill, much marred, however, by the new look of 
 the great tower, ^m. walking brings us to St. Stephen's, 
 a new church, built 1861 on the site and lines of a very 
 ancient structure, under the name of restoration. All that 
 was interesting has thus been falsified, and it is now im- 
 possible to distinguish the genuine features. The church- 
 yard is pretty. Here Eoman interments have been found, 
 and probably this was a cemetery outside the walls of 
 Verulam. The road here is on the old Watling Street. 
 From St. Stephen's Church to the railway station is only 
 a few minutes' walk. 
 
 In returning it will be well to take a train which goes 
 from this to the Great Northern Station, observing on 
 left the ruins of Sopwell Priory. Hence to Hatfield is a 
 short journey, and the excursionist may alight and see 
 the Park and House, or continue his way to London, as 
 he jjleases. 
 
 Windsor, Berks. 
 
 21m. from Paddington Stn. Fop. 7176, exclusive of the 
 Castle, which has a pop. of 408. 
 
 There are four ways of going to "Windsor : — 1. By 
 river ; 2. By road ; 3. By Great t\"estern Eailway from 
 
 K
 
 130 BOUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 Paddington ; and, 4. By South-Western Eailway from 
 Waterloo. 
 
 1. For ijlaces on the Thames, as far as Hampton Court 
 and Bushey Park, 22m., see. After passing Hampton, 
 the Middlesex Waterworks are on the right, the chimney 
 greatly disfiguring the landscape. At 26m. on the left, 
 is Walton, a pretty town, very ancient, well situated 
 near a large common, and close to Ashley and Oatlands 
 Parks. At the Bridge was an old ford, said to be that 
 crossed by Julius Caesar. Weybridge Lock is at 29m. 
 The town is im. inland to left. Here, near the Common, 
 was buried in a vault under the Roman Catholic Chapel, 
 Louis Philippe, Queen Amelie, and several other mem- 
 bers of the Orleans family. They were removed in 1876 
 to France. At Chertsey, left, SOjm., was a great Abbey, 
 of w^hich scarcely anything remains. Here the body of 
 Henry \1. was first buried, but was removed some years 
 later to Windsor. At Laleham, right, 32m., Thomas 
 Arnold lived before he became Master of Eugby. At 
 34:m, is Staines, right, an uninteresting but pretty town, 
 from v/hich a pleasant walk may be made to the summit 
 of Cooper's Hill, where there is a fine view. At Staines, 
 Buckinghamshire is entered on right. Im. beyond 
 Staines is Eunnimede, left, and, just before reaching the 
 oTth mile, Magna Charta Island. It is a question whether 
 the mead©w^ or the island was the scene of King John's 
 meeting with his barons, 1215. The best authorities are 
 in favour of Eunnimede. At 37m. the boundary of 
 Berkshire, left, is reached. Old Windsor, where probably 
 a king's house stood in Saxon times, is at 38m. The 
 views of the Great Park are very fine, left. Opposite 
 Datchet, 41m., right, is Datchet Mead, wdiere the Merry 
 Wives of Windsor threw Falstaff into the river. Pound 
 a long bend of 2m. past Eton, we at length reach the so- 
 called Fifteen Arch Bridge at Windsor. 
 
 2. By road we pass the 12m. circle at Hounslow, pro- 
 ceeding thence N.W. 3m. to Harlington, where near the 
 church porch is a fine yew, celebrated in prose and verse. 
 25m. further is Longford, about im. N. of which is Har- 
 mondsworth, where see a fine timber barn, 191 feet long 
 by 38 feet wide, probably of the fifteenth century. Im. 
 further is Colnbrook, where Edward III. met the Black 
 Prince on his return with his prisoner John, King of 
 France, 1357. Here the road enters Buckinghamshire,
 
 WINDSOB. 131 
 
 and the traveller may proceed by Slough, where he turns S. 
 Ifm. to Windsor, or turning to the left to Horton, go by 
 Datchet, over the Bridge and through the Park into the 
 town. 
 
 3. The Great Western Eailway crosses the 12m. circle 
 at Southall (see), and goes on by Hayes, lO^m. ; West 
 Drayton, 13m. ; Langley, IGm., where there is an inter- 
 esting church, with a library in it, to Slough, 18m., 
 whence the branch line, 2im., runs to Windsor, crossing 
 the Thames by a bridge and reaching the town after a 
 long bend, from which, left, good views are to be had, 
 close to the Castle. 
 
 4. The South-Western Eailway crosses the Thames at 
 Eichmond, and runs nearly straight from Twickenham to 
 Stames, by Feltham Station, 14im., which adjoins Han- 
 worth, where, in Hanworth Park, the Perkins' sale of 
 books took place in 1873, when two copies of the first 
 edition of the ' Yulgate' fetched respectively 34:CK)7. and 
 2690/., the two highest prices ever given for a book. At 
 Staines, a line to left passes Egham, 21m., to Tirginia 
 Water Station, 23m., from which Windsor Forest may be 
 reached; a line to right goes by Wraysbury Station, 
 21fm., the nearest for Magna Charta Island (set previous 
 page) to Datchet, and crossing the Thames at 25m. 
 reaches Windsor about a furlong from the Castle. This 
 is the most convenient station for Eton. 
 
 History.— Windsor has grown up round the Castle. 
 At first the town was only a hamlet of CJewer. The 
 Kings before the Xorman Conquest seem to have had a 
 house at Old Windsor, but when William I. built his 
 castle on the hill in Clewer, he continued the use of the 
 old name, which has generally but questionably been 
 taken in its original form, Windlesliore, to denote the 
 winding course of the Thames at this point. The 
 great mound, with its low-walled keep, was one of 
 a series of fortifications which included Wallingford, 
 Famham, Guildford, and Berkhamsted, by which, -^ith 
 the Tower of London, William provided for the defence 
 of the most important district of the island. Henry III. 
 made great improvements and alterations, and the oldest 
 existing remains are of his time. The King's residence 
 was in the Lower Ward, the mound and Eound Tower 
 being its most easterly part. The Bell Tower contains 
 a prison of this period. Henrv III., in 1265, imprisoned 
 
 K 2
 
 132 
 
 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 Sir Thomas FitzTliomas, the Mayor of London, at 
 Windsor. Edward III. was born here in 1312, and lived 
 much in the Castle during^ his long reign. There are 
 many references to tournaments and feasts in Froissart. 
 The Order of St. George, afterwards named the Garter, 
 was instituted at Windsor in 1344, a date which makes 
 it by far the earliest knightly order now surviving in 
 Europe. Under Edward III. the Upper Ward became 
 the royal residence, and the Round Tower was rebuilt. 
 He made the chapel a deanery, and enlarged it. Here 
 he had at one time, as his prisoners of war, David, King 
 of Scots, and John, King of France. Under Henry V. 
 the young James I., King of Scots, was here for many 
 years. Henry VI. was born at Windsor. Edward IV. 
 built part of the present chapel, which was finished by 
 Henry VII., who added the finely groined roof. Under 
 Henry VIII. the poet Earl of Surrey was imprisoned in 
 the Hound Tower. Elizabeth added considerably to the 
 buildings, and it was a favom-ite residence of the 
 Stewarts, Charles II. in particular spending large sums 
 on it. James II. made a Roman Catholic Chapel of the 
 building known as Wolsey's Tombhouse (see next page). 
 The next three kings seldom lived at Windsor, but it was 
 occasionally inhabited by Queen Anne. George III. 
 lived constantly in the Castle, and we have a graphic 
 account in the memoirs of Madame D'Arblay and Mrs. 
 Delany of the discomforts of the royal dwelling. 
 George IV. made great alterations, employing W^yatt, 
 on whom he conferred the honour of knighthood with 
 the name of Wyattville. He was the progenitor of our 
 modern restorers, and only exceeded them in mischief 
 because he was first in the field. He left little old work 
 at Windsor, and of that little Sir G. G. Scott, R.A., and 
 Mr. Salvin have removed the greater part. But Windsor 
 is now a truly noble, if not an ancient palace, well situated, 
 roomy, convenient, and worthy of the monarch of a great 
 country. 
 
 The visitor enters the Lower Ward by King Henry 
 VIII. 's Gate. He will probably proceed at once to St. 
 George's Chapel. It is open every day from twelve till 
 four. Observe in the choir the banners of Knights of the 
 Garter, and the "Garter plates " in the stalls, some of them 
 very ancient. See the roof, decorated with the badge of 
 Edward IV. ; the great E. window*, modern; a memorial
 
 WINDSOR. 133 
 
 of the Prince Consort, d. 1861 ; the Queen's Closet on 
 the X. side above the Communion Table, behind an oriel 
 window of the time of Henry VIII., and decorated with 
 his initials and those of Katharine of Aragon. On a stone 
 in the centre of the choir are the names of Hemy Till., 
 Jane Seymour, and Charles I., buried in the vault below. 
 Close by is the tomb in which are buried George III., 
 d. 1820 ; George IT., d. 1830; William IT., d. 1837 ; the 
 Duke of Kent, d. 1820, and many other members of the 
 Eoyal Family. Under the Queen's Closet are buried 
 Edward IV., d. 1483; his Queen, Elizabeth Woodvile, 
 d. 1492 ; and Lord Hastings, beheaded 1483. On the S. 
 side is the grave of Henry VI. , d. 1471, and buried here 
 1485. The nave is very fine. Observe groining of roof. 
 At the W. end, X. side, is the chantry containing monu- 
 ment of Princess Charlotte, d. 1817, by M. C. Wyatt, and 
 near it that of King Leopold, her husband, d. 1865, 
 buried at Brussels. The opposite chantry, S.W. end, 
 formerly contained the tombs of the Beaufort family. 
 They were removed in 1874 and replaced by the monu- 
 ment of the Duke of Kent, a joint design by Sir G. G. 
 Scott and Herr Boehm, 
 
 The visitor will next proceed to Wolsey^s Tombhouse, 
 originally built by Heniy VII., afterwards granted to 
 Cardinal Wolsey, who placed in it a sarcophagus, re- 
 moved to St. Pauls in 1806 for the body of Nelson. In 
 the reign of George II. it became a free school, like the 
 similarly placed chapel at St. Albans (see). It has re- 
 cently been converted at great expense into a memorial 
 of the Prince Consort, the meaning of which is not quite 
 clear. In the centre is a lofty altar-tomb, with a recum- 
 bent etfigy of the Prince, Avho is not, however, buried 
 here, but at Frogmore. The walls are covered with 
 mosaics in marble, representing scriptiu-al subjects, each 
 panel containing the portrait of one of the Prince's chil- 
 dren. The roof is encrusted with coloured glass mosaic ; 
 and this, as well as the reredos and the decorations of 
 the tomb and walls, are by two Italian artists, Salviati 
 and Triqueti. The design of the whole, which is Italian 
 Gothic, and wholly incongruous to the style of the build- 
 ing itself, is by Sir Gilbert Scott. The Tombhouse is 
 (-pen 'r)i Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday^ from 12 to 3. 
 Tickets are not required. 
 
 The visitor who has not time for the Albert Memorial
 
 134 EOUND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 Chapel need not regi-et it, and may see the cloisters 
 instead, of Edward III.'s period, and adjoining them, the 
 Deanery, a quaint, picturesque building of mixed style. 
 The N. side of St, George's Chapel should also be seen, 
 and the red brick quadrangle appropriated to the choir 
 and officers of the chapel, one of the most picturesque 
 sights in the Castle, but often missed. Close by are the 
 Hundred Steps, which may be used for convenience of 
 access to the South Western Eailway Station. 
 
 The Bound Tower should also, if possible, be ascended. 
 It was built by Wyattville on the old mound, which is 
 entirely artificial. The view from it is very fine, extend- 
 ing, it is said, to twelve counties. Admission may be had 
 on days when the State Apartments are shown, of which 
 notice is given in the London papers. In the Lower 
 Ward, observe the houses of the Military Knights, facing 
 St. George's Chapel. 
 
 The ?7/J2^er Ward is wholly modern. It lies E. of the 
 mound and Eound Tower, and is approached by the so- 
 called " Norman Gate," of Edwardian work. The entrance 
 to the State Apartments is on the left. The projecting 
 porch beyond is the State entrance. The Queen's private 
 entrance is at the S.E. corner of the court. The State 
 Apartments are shown, when the Queen is absent only, 
 every day except Wednesday and Saturday. Tickets may 
 be had in the to^m, or in London, at Mitchell's, 33, Old 
 Bond Street ; Colnaghi's, 14, Pall Mall East ; and Wright's, 
 60, Pall Mall. There is also an oflBce in the Castle, on 
 the terrace facing the Eound Tower, at the E. end of the 
 Ivnights' houses. 
 
 The following are the principal rooms shown : — 1. The 
 Audience Chamber, ceiling by A^errio ; Mary Qu':en of Scots, 
 by Clouet. 2. The Vcmdyck Boom, containing twenty-two 
 portraits by that master. 3. The Dravnng Boom, con- 
 taining landscapes by Zuccarelli. 4. The Ante Boom, 
 Avith carvings by Gibbons. 5. The Neiu Staircase; and 
 6, the Vestibule, by Mr. Salvin. See Chantrey's statue of 
 George IV. and Boehm's of the Queen. 7. The Waterloo 
 Gallery, containing portraits of the eminent persons who 
 took part in the war. 8. The Ball Boom. 9. >S'^. Georges 
 Hall, a poor imitation by Wyattville of a Gothic hall. 
 Opening from it is the private Chapel, the organ of which 
 is placed so as to serve for the hall as well. 10. The 
 .Guard Boom, where see the Blenheim and Waterloo
 
 WINDSOR. 135 
 
 flags, by presentation of which annually the Dukes of 
 Marlborough and ^Yellington hold their estates. 11. The 
 Queen's Presence Chamber, hung with fine tapestry repre- 
 senting the history of Esther. These are all the rooms 
 shown. The Queen's private apartments can only be 
 seen by a private order from the Lord Chamberlain, and 
 need not be enumerated here. 
 
 The Park is divided by a public road into the Home 
 Park and the Great Park. Between them, in the hollow, 
 is Frogmore, formerly, as its name denotes, a marsh, and 
 probably the chief defence of the Castle on that side. 
 The Long Walk connects the two parks, and may be 
 followed for 3m. to Snowhill, where is a statue, by West- 
 macott, of George IIL From this point there are fine 
 views both of the Castle and of the adjacent forest. East 
 of the Long Walk are the Mausoleums, where the Prince 
 Consort and the Duchess of Kent are buried. They are 
 not shown to the public. They are Italian-domed struc- 
 tures of no external beauty, but said to be gorgeously 
 decorated within. Frogmore House, the Eoyal Garden, 
 and Dairy are close by. There are many fine trees in 
 the Park, but Hearne's Oak has disappeared. It was E. 
 of the avenue, near Frogmore. The forest was enclosed 
 in 1814, but the best wooded portions were taken into 
 the Park, which now covers about 3000 acres. There are 
 many pleasant walks through it to Englefield Green and 
 Cooper's Hill, S.E. ; or to Tirginia Water, which is nearly 
 5m. from the Castle, all through well-wooded avenues. 
 
 A charming day's excursion may be sketched as fol- 
 lows ; — Go to Windsor by Great Western Piailway from 
 Paddington ; walk through the Castle, seeing St. George's 
 Chapel, the Cloisters, and if it is open, the Pound Tower ; 
 go on by the Long Walk, through the Great Park to 
 Virginia Water, and return thence by South- Western 
 Eailway to Waterloo Station. This will only involve 
 a walk of 6 or 7m.
 
 ( 137 ) 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Abbey Wood, 13, 90. 
 
 Abbot, Abp., 52. 
 
 Aberuetliy, 47. 
 
 Acton, 6, 13. 
 
 Acton Green, 13. 
 
 Adam, R., 67. 
 
 Addington, 14, 36. 
 
 Addiscombe, 15, 37. 
 
 Adelaide, Queen, 97. 
 
 Alton, W. 75. 
 
 Albert, Prince, 132, 133, 135. 
 
 Smitb, 53. 
 
 Aldborough, 15. 
 
 Aldhelm, 43. 
 
 Alexandra Palace, 21, 102. 
 
 Park, 70. 
 
 Alfred, 82. 
 
 Alfstan, 26. 
 
 Algar, Earl, 72. 
 
 Alleyne. E., 39. 
 
 All Hallows, Barking, 16. 
 
 All Souls', Oxford, 17. 
 
 Alphage, St., 54, 55. 
 
 Alteham, 44. 
 
 Amelia, Princess, 41, 93. 
 
 Anerley, 15. 
 
 Angerstein, 55. 
 
 Anne Bullen, 28, 54, 126. 
 
 of Cleves, 57, 79. 
 
 of Denmark, 55. 
 
 , Queen, 6, 8, 18, 28, 104. 
 
 Anspach, Margravine of, 52. 
 Apse at East Ham, 41. 
 Archway Road, 69. 
 Argyll, Duke of, 11, 88. 
 Arundel, Earl of, 82. 
 
 House, Fulham, 53. 
 
 Ashmole, 20. 
 
 Ashton Lodge, 52. 
 At Hall family, 23. 
 Athelstan, 76. 
 Atterbury, 26. 
 Audley, Lord, 56. 
 Aulton, 27. 
 Aumale, Duke of, 104. 
 Aylmer, Bp., 52. 
 
 Babbage, 48. 
 
 Bacon, Lord, 69, 96, 104. 
 
 , SirN., 31, 96. 
 
 Baillies, the, 60. 
 Baldock, Bishop, 52. 
 Balham, 98. 
 Bancroft, 50. 
 
 , Archbishop, 52. 
 
 Banks, Sir J., 75, 96. 
 Barber, Alderman, 85, 
 Barclay, M. G., 81. 
 Bardolphs, 14. 
 Barking, 8, 15. 
 Barking Side, 17. 
 Barley, 16. 
 Bam Elms, 18. 
 Barnes, 11, 17. 
 Barnet, 18, 57, 58. 
 Barry, architect, 39. 
 Baxter, 13, 14, 102. 
 Bayford, 18. 
 Beauchamp, 19. 
 Bee, Abbey of, 98. 
 
 , Bishop, 45. 
 
 Beckenham, 21. 
 Becket, Abp., 16, 83. 
 Beckton, 42. 
 Beddington, 22. 
 Bedford, Duke of, 5, 98.
 
 138 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Beech Green, 31. 
 Beggars Bush, 43. 
 "Bell," the, 4.3. 
 Bellot, Lieutenant, 55. 
 Belsize, 59. 
 Beltraffio, 40. 
 Belvedere, 90. 
 Benhilton, 99. 
 Benn, A., 77. 
 Bentley Priory, 65, 97. 
 Berkeley, Earl of, 67. 
 Bermondsey, 2S. 
 Bemers, Juliana, 126. 
 Berrys, the Miss, 88. 
 Bethem, E., 54. 
 Bexley, 23. 
 
 , Lord, 34. 
 
 Bickley, 26, 27. 
 Binning, 20. 
 Bird, F., .51. 
 Bishop, Sir H., 50. 
 Bishops' graves, 51. 
 
 Walk. 52. 
 
 Wood, 61. 
 
 Bishopsgate, 24. 
 
 Blackheath, 29, 56, 59. 
 
 Blomfield, Bishop, 51. 
 
 Bohun. 16. 
 
 Boleyn Cr.stle, 42, 
 
 Bolingbroke, 21. 
 
 Bonaparte, 31. 
 
 Bonar, Mr. and Mrs., 32. 
 
 Bonner, BishojD, 52. 
 
 Borstall Heath, 90. 
 
 Boston, 24, 25. 
 
 Bourchier, Archbishop, 84, 85, 
 
 123. 
 Bourne, rising of the, 36. 
 
 , River, 95. 
 
 Bourne, V., 51. 
 Bow, 97. 
 Bownell, M., 67. 
 Braniber, Sir N., 86. 
 Brandenburg House, 58 
 Brandon, 21. 
 Bravbrook, Bishop, 52 
 Brentford, 3, 6, 24. 
 End. 73. 
 
 Bridges, 23. 
 Brockley Hill, 43, 97. 
 Bromley, 10, 25. 
 Brondesbury, 112. 
 Brook Green, 58. 
 Broome House, 53. 
 Brown's Wells, 50. 
 Bruce and Baliol, 6, 101. 
 
 Castle, 101. 
 
 Buccleuch. Duke of, 94. 
 Buckhurst Hill. 30, 49, 82. 
 
 , Lord, 100. 
 
 Buckingliam, Duke of, 18, 77. 
 Burdett-Coutts, Lady, 69. 
 Burgeois, Sir F., 40. 
 Burleigh, Lord, 11, 96. 
 Burlington, Lord, 33. 
 Bushey Park, 61, 62, 100. 
 Butler, Bishop, 60. 
 Butts, >Sir W., 51. 
 Byron, Admiral, 103. 
 , Lord, 6, 65. 
 
 Cabal Md^stet, 88. 
 Cade, J., 56. 
 Caen Wood, 61, 69. 
 
 Wood Towers, 69. 
 
 Caesar's Camps, 74, 112, 113. 
 Camberwell, 39, 41. 
 Cambridge, Duke of; 23, 74, 95. 
 
 University, 93. 
 
 Camden, 5, 23, 31, 32. 
 Campe, 20. 
 
 Campeggio, Cardinal, 57. 
 Canbury, 78. 
 Canning, Eliz., 48. 
 
 , Geo., 6, 33, 88, 91. 
 
 Canningtown, 89. 
 Canons, 110. 
 Canterbury, Visct., 15. 
 Carew, 14, 22, 23, 99. 
 Carlos, T., 51. 
 Caroline. Queen, 6, 59. 
 Carshalton, 11, 23, 27. 
 
 Park, 28. 
 
 Castle Hill, 14. 
 Castlereagh, Lord, 34. 
 Catford, 80.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 139 
 
 Cator, 21. 
 
 Caveudish, 20. 
 
 Caxton, books by, 67, 88, 127. 
 
 Ceawlin, 11, 112. 
 
 Cecil, Sir R., 121. 
 
 Cecils, 113. 
 
 ChadweU Heath, 38. 
 
 Chaloner, 32. 
 
 Champneys, 23. 
 
 Chandos, Duke of, 110. 
 
 Chantrey, Sir F., 77, 90. 
 
 Charles I., 13, 25, 58, 62, 67, 
 
 93 
 Charles JI., 51, 54, 55, 57, 62, 
 
 93. 
 Charles V., Emperor, 92, 
 Charlotte, Princess, 133. 
 Charlton, 28. 
 Chatham, Earl of, 10, 48, 60, 66, 
 
 111. 
 Chauncy, Herts, 2. 
 Cheam, 11, 57. 
 Chelsea, 4. 
 Cherokees, 20. 
 Chertsey, 99. 
 Chessinji;ton, 82. 
 Chesterfield, Lord, 57. 
 
 Walk, 57^ 
 
 Chigwell, 30, 82. 
 Child, 51, 53, 67. 
 
 , Sir J., 109. 
 
 Chingford, 30. 
 
 Chipping IBarnet, 18. 
 
 Chislehurst, 10, 26, 31. 
 
 Chiswick, 6. 
 
 Chaucer, 38. 
 
 Chohneley, Sir R., 68. 
 
 Church End, 50. 
 
 Clare, the " Red Earl" of Glou- 
 
 cester, 67, 77. 
 Clarence, Duke of, 30. 
 Clarendon, Earl of, 104. 
 ' Clarissa Harlow,' 53. 
 Clarke, 21. 
 Clay Hill, 47. 
 
 Cleveland, Duchess of, 32, 93. 
 CHtherow, 24. 
 Clutterbuck, Herts, 2. 
 
 Cock Fosters, 47. 
 
 Colby's Charities, 80. 
 
 Coleraine, Lord, 101. 
 
 Coleridge, 6, 68. 
 
 Coles, 14. 
 
 Colet, 11. 
 
 Collins (painter), 60. 
 
 Colnbrook, 130. 
 
 Colney Hatch, 20. 
 
 Compton, Bishop, 51, 52. 
 
 Comyns, 20. 
 
 Connaught, Duke of, 57, 116. 
 
 Constantinople, Emperor of, 56. 
 
 Conyers, 20. 
 
 Cook, Captain, 75, 83. 
 
 , Sir A., 96. 
 
 Coombe Wood, 78. 
 
 Cooper's Hill, 130. 
 
 Copley, J. S., 36. 
 
 Coronations, 14. 
 
 Cottenham, Earl of, 102. 
 
 Covent Garden, St. Paul's, 29. 
 
 Cowley, 18. 
 
 Cowper, 25, 43. 
 
 Crabbe, G., 60. 
 
 Crabtree Wood, 30. 
 
 Craggs, 28, 29. 
 
 Cranbury, 78. 
 
 Crane, Sir F., 85. 
 
 Cranmer, Archbishop, 23, 107, 
 
 112. 
 Cranworth, Lord, 74. 
 Craven Cottage, 52. 
 
 , Lady, 52. 
 
 Crav, Foot's, 34. 
 
 -, North, 34. 
 
 , St. Mary's, 33. 
 
 , St. Paul's, 34. 
 
 Cravford, 10, 23, 35. 
 
 Crays, the, 11, 23, 33. 
 
 Cribb, T., 114. 
 
 Crispe, Sir N., 58. 
 
 Croham, 35, 37. 
 
 CromweU, 11, 13, 32, 54, 62, 69. 
 
 Croom's Hill, 55. 
 
 Crossness, 13. 
 
 Crotch, Dr., 53. 
 
 Crouch End, 71.
 
 140 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Crouch Hill, 7. 
 
 Croydon, 11, 15, 35. 
 
 Crystal Palace, 15, 41, 86, 87, 99. 
 
 Cuddington, 37, 82. 
 
 Cuyp, 40. 
 
 Cynewulf, King, 82. 
 
 Dagexham. 8, 37. 
 
 . Breach. 38. 
 
 Dane's Holes, 32, 35. 
 
 Darenth, 33, 35. 
 
 Dartford, 23. 
 
 Dartmouth, Earl of, 80. 
 
 Datchet, 130. 
 
 Day, J., 89. 
 
 Dechair, 19. 
 
 Dee, Dr., 85. 
 
 De la Moote, 19. 
 
 Denny, Sir A., 106. 
 
 Deptford, 10, 38. 
 
 Derwentwater, 13, 55. 
 
 Desenfans, 40. 
 
 Devonshire, Duke of, 20, 33. 
 
 Dickens, Chas., 30. 
 
 Disraeli, Isaac, 48. 
 
 Doddridge, Dr., 126. 
 
 Dolce, C, 40. 
 
 Dorset, Earl of, 123. 
 
 Dover, Bishop of, 13. 
 
 Drake, Sir F., 38. 
 
 Draper, W., 35. 
 
 Drax destroyed Csesar's Camp, 
 
 113. 
 " Druid," corvette, 38. 
 Drummond shot, 29. 
 Dufferm, 69. 
 Dulwich, 39. 
 Dunstan, St., 76. 
 Duppa's Hill, 37. 
 Durer, A., 73. 
 Dysart, Earl of, 79. 
 Dysart, Earls of, 87. 
 
 Ealing, 13, 24, 25, 41. 
 
 Eastbury, 17. 
 East Ham, 8, 41. 
 Ecclesiastical Commissioners,26. 
 Eden, 21. 
 
 Edgar, 16, 26, 76. 
 
 Edgware, 4, 6, 42. 
 
 Edmonton, 3, 6, 43. 
 
 Edmund, 76. 
 
 Edmund Ironside, 6, 24, 76, 
 
 Edred, 76. 
 
 Edward I., 92, 107. 
 
 Edward III., 22,45,92, 130, 132. 
 
 Edward IV., 10, 18, 30, 58, 92, 
 132. 
 
 Edward VL, 5, 54. 
 
 Edward the Confessor,8,18,54,96. 
 
 Edward the Elder, 76. 
 
 Edward the Martyr, 76. 
 
 Edwy, 76. 
 
 Eelpie Island, 105. 
 
 Eleanor Crosses, 107. 
 
 Elizabeth, Queen, 10, 11, 18, 19, 
 22, 31, 36, 38, 47, 52, 54, 62, 
 66, 72, 82, 85, 92, 120. 
 
 Elizabeth Woodvile, 133. 
 
 Ellis, Wynn, 121. 
 
 EUynbridge, 27. 
 
 Elstree, 41, 44. 
 
 Eltham, 3, 10, 44, 57. 
 
 Eltoe House, 81. 
 
 Elv, Bishop of, 120. 
 
 Enfield, 46, 107. 
 
 Chase, 48, 57. 
 
 Wash, 48. 
 
 Epping, 8, 49. 
 
 Fore 
 
 Erith, 90. 
 
 Erkenwald, 15. 
 
 Erskine, Lord, 60. 
 
 Essex, 8. 
 
 , Earl, 6, 13, 91, 112. 
 
 Ethelbert, 11, 26, 112. 
 
 Ethelburga, 16. 
 
 Ethelred, 82. 
 
 Evelj-n, 38. 
 
 Ewin, 24. 
 
 EweU, 37. 
 
 Fair Seat House, 69. 
 Fairfax, 68. 
 Fairlawn, 13. 
 Fairlop, 17.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 141 
 
 Falstaff, 25, 130. 
 Faraday, M., 62. 
 FeDowes, 27, 28. 
 Fielding, 13. 
 Finch, 22. 
 Finchley, 6, 49, 53. 
 Finsburv Park, 70, 71. 
 Fire Bell Gate, 16. 
 Fittler, 32. 
 
 Fitzherbert, Mrs., 53, 104. 
 Fitz-James, Bishop, 52. 
 Fitz-Thomas, Sir T., 131. 
 Fitzwilliam, Lord, 93. 
 Flaxman, 21, 24, 66, 80. 
 Fletcher, Bishop, 52. 
 Florio. translator, 53. 
 Foot's Cray, 34. 
 Fordhook,*13. 
 Forty Hill, 46, 47. 
 
 ^^ Hall, 47. 
 
 Foscolo, 33. 
 Fox, C. J., 6. 33. 
 Francis, Sir P., 84. 
 Frederick, Prince of "Wales, 75. 
 French, Martine, 26. 
 Friern Bamet, 4, 20. 
 Frogmore, 135. 
 Frognal, 32. 
 Frowicke, 50. 
 Fry. Mrs., 8, 42. 
 Fulham, 4, 6, 50, 58, 59. 
 Fuller, T., 107. 
 
 Gainsborough, 40, 64, 74. 
 Gamey family, 110. 
 Garrett, 19. 
 Garrick, 32, 66. 
 Garter, Order of, 132. 
 Gay, 25. 
 Gaynesford, 27. 
 Gee, 22. 
 Geology, Essex, 9. 
 
 Kent, 10. 
 
 Middlesex, 7. 
 
 Surrey, 12. 
 
 George I., 55. 
 
 George H., 50, 55, 62, 104. 
 
 George HI., 48, 74, 132. 
 
 George IV., 25, 45, 132. 
 
 Germaine, Lady B., 124. 
 
 Ghent, 54. 
 
 Gibbon, Edward H., 11, 21. 78, 91 . 
 
 Gibbons, G., 71, 110. 
 
 Gibson, Bishop, 51. 
 
 Gidea HaU, 96. 
 
 " Gilpin, John," 43. 
 
 Gipsy Queen, 22. 
 
 Hill, 22. 
 
 Gladmore Heath, 57. 
 Gloucester, Duchess of, 47. 
 
 ,Duke of, 16, 54, 127. 
 
 , Earl of, 67, 77. 
 
 Goldsmith, 25. 
 Gore, 3. 
 
 Gougb, antiquary, 48. 
 Graham, 6, 66. 
 Grange Hill, 30. 
 Gravesend, Bishop, 52. 
 Green Hill, 65. 
 
 Street, 42. 
 
 Greenford, 6, 54, 87. 
 Greenwich, 8, 10, 31, 54. 
 Greuze, 64. 
 Grey, Lady Jane, 6. 
 Grindal, Archbishop, 36, 52. 
 Guido, 40, 64. 
 Gunnersbury, 41. 
 Gunpowder Plot, 27. 
 Gwynne, Nell, 69. 
 
 Hackney, 4. 
 Hadley, 6, 18, 19, 57. 
 Hainault Forest, 17. 
 Hale, 13. 
 Hallam, H. 53. 
 Halley, 80. 
 Hallowell, 22. 
 Hall Place, 23. 
 Ham, 78. 
 
 House, 78, 88. 
 
 Hamilton, E., 98. 
 Hammersmith, 6, 32, 58. 
 Hampstead, 6, 7, 59. 
 Hampton Court, 6, 62, 63, 72. 
 Handel, 6, 43, 74, 110. 
 Hanway, J., 64.
 
 142 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Hanwell, 24, 64, 86. 
 
 Han worth, 131. 
 
 Hardwick, 28. 
 
 Hkrlcsdeu, 112. 
 
 Harlington, 130. 
 
 Harmondswortli, 130. 
 
 Harold, 8, 106. 
 
 Harrow, 6, 65. 
 
 Harsnett, Archbishop, 30. 
 
 Harvev, 14. 
 
 Hasted's ' Kent,' 2, 26. 
 
 Hastings, Lord, 132. 
 
 Hatcham, 39. 
 
 Hatfield, 120. 
 
 Hatteclvff, 14. 
 
 Havering,. 8, 96. 
 
 Hawkesworth, 26. 
 
 Hayes, 10, 66. 
 
 Hayter, Bishop, 51. 
 
 Heathfield, Lord, 41, 103. 
 
 Hedilbiirga, 16. 
 
 Henchman, Bishop, 51, 52. 
 
 Hendon, 24, 66. 
 
 Hengist, 35. 
 
 Henrietta Maria, Queen, 93. 
 
 Henry L, 39, 
 
 Henry II., 106. 
 
 Hemy III., 45, 77, 131. 
 
 Henry IV., 46, 54. 
 
 HenrV V., 56, 92. 
 
 Henry VL, 6, 24, 57, 130. 
 
 Henry VII., 4, 10, 11, 92, 132. 
 
 Henry VIII., 5, 10, 22, 23, 37, 
 
 38, 47, 54, 57, 61, 65, 92, 93, 
 
 114, 126, 132. 
 Henry, Prince of Wales, 92. 
 Herges, 6.5. 
 
 Herring, Archbishop, 36. 
 Herts, 9, 10. 
 Heston, 6, 66. 
 Hevdon, Sir H., 111. 
 Hicks, 81. 
 
 Highbeech, 8, 31, 82. 
 Highgate, 6, 7, 61, 70. 
 Highwood Hill, 84. 
 Hill, Bishop, 51. 
 
 , Kowland, 6. 
 
 , Sir R., 101. 
 
 Hislop, 29. 
 Hoare, Lady, 21. 
 Hobbema, 40. 
 Hogarth, 6, 32, 33, 50. 
 Holbein, 64. 
 Holborn, 4, 59. 
 Holland, Earl of, 77. 
 Holly Lodge, 69. 
 
 Village, 69. 
 
 Holwood, 74. 
 
 Holy Eood Chapel, 16. 
 
 Hood, J., 109. 
 
 Hood, Thomas. 43, 78. 
 
 Hook, T. E., 51, 53. 
 
 Hooker, Dr. 75. 
 
 , Sir- W., 75. 
 
 Hoppner, R. A., 52. 
 Horn Fair. 29. 
 Home Park, 45. 
 Hornsey, 6, 68, 69. 
 
 Wood, 70. 
 
 Horticultural Gardens, 33. 
 Hospital, Greenwich, 55. 
 Houuslow, 6, 67, 73. 
 Howard, Lord W., 47. 
 Howley, Archbishop, 14. 
 Hughsoii's Walks, 2. 
 Hundi-eds in Middlesex, 2. 
 Hurlingham, 53. 
 Huscail, 22. 
 Hyde Park, 4. 
 , the, 79. 
 
 Ilfokd Cemetery, 71. 
 
 , Great, 15, 71. 
 
 , Little, 71. 
 
 Impey, Sir E., 59. 
 logatestone, 16. 
 Ireton, 69. 
 Isabel. Queen, 45. 
 Isleworth, 3, 6, 72. 
 Islington Cemetery, 50. 
 
 " Jack Straw's Castle," 60. 
 Jackson, Bi^op, 70. 
 James L, 5-, 23, 62. 
 James II., 6, 68, 77. 
 James, J., 55.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 143 
 
 Jane Gray, 6. 
 
 Jane Seymour, Queen, 61 , 63, 133. 
 
 Jansen, 52. 
 
 Jebb, Sir K., 48. 
 
 Jersey, Earl of, 67. 
 
 John," King, 77, 130. 
 
 , King of France, 45,130,132. 
 
 Johnson, Dr.,11, 25, 26,60, 70,98. 
 Joinyille, Prince cle, 104. 
 Jones, E. Bume, 44. 
 
 , Inigo, 29, 33, 55. 
 
 , John, 128. 
 
 Jonson, 25. 
 Joyden's Wood, 35. 
 Joynson's Paper Mill, 33. 
 Juxon, Bishop, 52. 
 
 Kathaetne of Aeagon, 54, 57, 
 
 77, 103, 133. 
 Katherine of France, 16. 
 
 of Portugal, 59. 
 
 Par, Queen, 61, 80, 112. 
 
 Kean, E., 93. 
 Keats, 6, 60. 
 Ken Wood, 61. 
 Kensington, 3, 4. 
 Kent, 10, 11. 
 
 , Duke of, 133. 
 
 Keston, 10, 74. 
 Kew, 11, 61, 74. 
 Kidbrook, 28, 29, 57. 
 Kilburn, 61. 
 King, 22. 
 
 Kingsbury, 4, 79, 126. 
 Kingston, 11, 76. 
 
 , Lady M., 81. 
 
 Kitcat Club, 18. 
 
 Kneller, Sir G., 6, 63, 105. 
 
 Hall, 105. 
 
 Knight's London, 2. 
 Knole, 122. 
 Knott's Green, 81. 
 
 Laleham, 130. 
 Lamb Abbey, 23. 
 Lamb, C, 6," 43, 48. 
 Lambarde, 123. 
 
 Lambeth, 14, 86, 99. 
 Lamorbey, 23. 
 Landseer, Sir E., 61, 73. 
 Lanfranc, Archbishop, 35, 
 Langley, 131. 
 Langthorne Abbey, 98. 
 Laud, Archbishop, 52, 58, 97. 
 Lauderdale, Duchess of, 87, 88. 
 
 House, 69. 
 
 Lawrence, Lord, 41. 
 
 , Sir H., 41. 
 
 , Sir T., 64, 73. 
 
 Lea Eiver, 7, 9, 17, 81, 97. 
 Leathersellers, 19. 
 Lee, 80. 
 
 Legh, Lady, 51. 
 Leigh, 14." 
 
 Lely, Sir P., painter, 63. 
 Leo. King of Armenia, 45. 
 Leofstan, 18. 
 Leoni, 28. 
 
 Leopold, Prince, 133. 
 Lesnes Abbey, 13. 
 Lewisham, 21, 25, SO. 
 Leyton, Low, 81. 
 Leytonstone, 81. 
 Lilburn, 24, 46. 
 Lilestone, 61. 
 Limehouse, 4. 
 Lintot, Bishop, 53. 
 Lisle, Bishop, 86. 
 Liverpool, Earl of, 78. 
 Lockdey Hall. 31. 
 London, City of, 93. 
 Londonderry, Lord, 34. 
 Longby, Archbishop, 15. 
 Loughborough, Lord, 60. 
 Loughton, 81. 
 Louis Philippe, 104, 130. 
 Lioutherbourg, 32, 59. 
 Loyel, Lord, 79. 
 Lowth, Bishop, 51. 
 Lushington, M., 80. 
 Lyndhurst, Lord, 36. 
 Lynne, K., 98. 
 Lyon, John, 65. 
 Lysons, 1, 2, 4, 53. 
 Lytton, Lord, 52, 58.
 
 144 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Mabuse, 64. 
 Macaulay, 20. 
 Mackintosh, Sir J., 60. 
 Maldon, 82. 
 Mandeville, 27, 46, 57. 
 Manning and Bray, 2. 
 
 , Martin, 34. 
 
 Mansfield, Earl of, 61. 
 INIantegna's Cartoons, 64. 
 Marble Hill, 104. 
 Marlborough, Duchess of, 113, 
 
 126. 
 Marlborough, Duke of, 135. 
 Marochetti, 32. 
 Marsh, 21. 
 Mary II., 55, 63. 
 
 , Queen, 10, 62, 72. 
 
 Stuart, 6, 62. 
 
 Marryat, 48, 59. 
 INIarvlebone, 4, 5, 49. 
 MarVon, 28, 59. 
 Matilda. Queen, 8, 83, 97. 
 May's Place, 35. 
 Merrv, Lady, 108. 
 Merton, 11, 82. 
 Miehenden House, 44. 
 Middle Park, 46. 
 Middlesex, 2, 24. 
 
 , county, 2. 
 
 ■ , county town of, 25. 
 
 , old families in, 24. 
 
 Milboume, 18. 
 Mill Hill, 84. 
 Mitcham, 84. 
 Monk, 6, 26. 
 
 , General, 50. 
 
 Monken Hadley, 18, 19, 57. 
 Montacute, Marquis of, 58. 
 Montagu, 16, 28. 
 Montaigne, Bishop, 52. 
 Monteagle, 17. 
 Moore, T., 70. 
 Moote, De la, 19. 
 Morant's Esses, 2. 
 Mordaunt, Lord, 51. 
 Morden College, 29, 57. 
 Mortlake, 17, 84, 92. 
 Mottingham, 46. 
 
 Mount Lebanon, 104. 
 
 Pleasant, 70. 
 
 IMulgrave, Earl of, 58, 59. 
 Murillo, 40. 
 Muswell, 7. 
 MusweU HQl, 21, 70. 
 
 Napoleon III., 32, 100. 
 Nelson, Lord, 11, 55, 56, 83, 
 133 
 
 Nevil,' E., 42. 
 New Cross, 39. 
 Newland, A., 70. 
 Newton, Sir A., 29. 
 Nichols, 13. 
 Nonsuch, 11, 37, 82. 
 Norbiton, 76, 78. 
 Norden, 50. 
 Norfolk College, 56. 
 North End, Fulham, 53. 
 
 , Lord, 67. 
 
 , Sir E., 65. 
 
 Northall, 67, 85. 
 Northampton, Earl of, 56. 
 Northumberland, Earl and Duke 
 
 of, 72, 80. 
 Northumberland House, 73. 
 Northwick, Lord, 65. 
 Norwood, Middlesex, 86. 
 
 Surrey, 22, 64, 86. 
 
 Noviomagus, 74. 
 Nov, 24. 
 Nye, 13. 
 
 Observatory, Greenwich, 55, 
 56. 
 
 , Leyton, 81. 
 
 Odo, Bishop, 21, 80. 
 
 Ogle, Earl of, 72. 
 
 Old Charlton, 28. 
 
 Old Ford, 97. 
 
 Oliph, 14. 
 
 Ord, J. .53. 
 
 Ordnance Survey obelisk, 31 
 
 Orleans family, 104, 130. 
 
 Orpington, 33. 
 
 Osterley, 6, 25, 66, 73, 86, 96. 
 
 Otford, 122.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 145 
 
 Overey, 11. 
 
 Owen, Professor, 85. 
 
 Oxford, 23, 28. 
 
 Painted Hall, 55. 
 
 Palmer's Green, 44. 
 
 Palmerston, 6, 65. 
 
 Pancras, St., 5. 
 
 Paris, Count of, 104. 
 
 Parker, Archbishop^ 11, 36. 
 
 Parry, Sir E., 13, 60. 
 
 Parson's Green, 53. 
 
 Partridge, Astrologer, 85. 
 
 Paxton, Sir J., 33, 99- 
 
 Payne, Judge, 69. 
 
 Pearce, 26. 
 
 Peekham, Archbishop, 84. 
 
 Peel, 6, 29, 65. 
 
 Pembroke Lodge, 95. 
 
 Penge, 86, 87. 
 
 Pepvs, 38. 
 
 Perceval, 6, 29, 60, 65. 
 
 Percy, H. 72. 
 
 Perivale, 87. 
 
 Perrers, Alice, 77. 
 
 Peter the Great, 38. 
 
 Peterborough, Lord, 53. 
 
 Petersham, 11, 78, 87, 92. 
 
 Philip II., 62. 
 
 Philip IV., 63. 
 
 Pinner, 89. 
 
 Pitt, W., 10, 11, 66, 74, 91. 
 
 Plaistow, 8, 89. 
 
 Plashet, 42. 
 
 Plumstead, 89. 
 
 Pole, Cardinal, 22, 112. 
 
 Pope, 6, 103. 
 
 Pope's Villa, 104. 
 
 Popham, 20. 
 
 Pordenone, 63. 
 
 Porteus, Bishop, 51, 52. 
 
 Portland, Duke of, 5. 
 
 Portman, Lord, 5. 
 
 Potter's Bar, 48. 
 
 Poussin, 40. 
 
 Powell, Sir W., 51. 
 
 , W., 110. 
 
 Pratt, Lord Camden, 32. 
 
 Preston, in Harrow, 65, 
 
 Pretender, 50. 
 
 Prevost, 19. 
 
 Primrose Hill, 5. 
 
 Pryor's Bank, 52. 
 
 Purfleet Powder Magazine, 35. 
 
 Purser's Green, and Cross, 53. 
 
 Putney, 11, 18, 91, 92. 
 
 QUAKLES, F., 96. 
 
 Quebec, 55. 
 
 Queensberry, Duchess of, 79. 
 
 j House, 94. 
 
 I Queen's House, Greenwich, 55. 
 
 Quelch, 27. 
 
 Eadcliffe, 11, 28, 59. 
 
 Raffles, Sir S., 84. 
 
 Ealeigh, 22. 
 
 Ramrvge, Abbot of, 127. 
 
 Raphael, 40, 64, 85. 
 
 Ravensbourne, 74, 81. 
 
 Ravenscroft, 19. 
 
 Ravensworth, 53. 
 
 Raynton, Sir N., 47. 
 
 Reform Bill, 88. 
 
 Rembrandt, 40. 
 
 Reynolds, Sir J., 40, 73, 94, 122. 
 
 , Archbishop, 84. 
 
 Richard II., 45, 92. 
 Richardson, 6. 
 Richmond, 11, 92. 
 Ridley, Bishop, 52. 
 Riverhead, 123. 
 Robinson, Bishop, 51. 
 Roehampton, 91, 95. 
 Rogers, S., 70. 
 Rokesley or Ruxley, 34. 
 Rome Land, 126. 
 Romford, 95. 
 Romney, G., 60. 
 Roos, Lord, 47. 
 Rose, 18. 
 
 Roslyn, Lord, 48, 60. 
 Rothschild, Baron, 41. 
 Roxeth, 65. 
 Rubens, 67. 
 Ruckholt House, 81.
 
 116 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Kunnimede, 130. 
 Kupert, Prince, 6, 24:. 
 Euskin, Professor, S7. 
 Rushey Green, 80. 
 Russell, Earl, 95. 
 
 , Lady R., 102. 
 
 Ruysdael, 40. 
 Rysbeach, 55. 
 Ryves, 13. 
 
 *' Sacharissa," 72. 
 Sacbeverell, Dr., G9. 
 Sadleir, J., 60. 
 Salisbury, Lady, 42. 
 
 , Marquis of, 121. 
 
 Sandys, Archbishop, 52. 
 
 Saunders, 51. 
 
 Sayes Court, 38. 
 
 Scawen, 27, 28. 
 
 Scots, Kings of, 101, 132. 
 
 , Mary, Queen of, 122. 
 
 Scott, Sir G., 88. 
 
 , Sir G. G., 36, 41, 44, 65, 
 
 93, 128, 133. 
 Seal, Bishop, 52. 
 Seven Sisters Road, 102. 
 Sevenoaks, 123. 
 
 , Sir W., 123. 
 
 Severadroog, Castle, IIL 
 Seymour, Lord, 80. 
 Sharp, engraver, 32. 
 
 , Granville, 53. 
 
 Shaw, Sir J., 45. 
 
 Sheen, 54, 85. 
 
 Sheldon, Archbishop, 36, 52, 
 
 Shephard, J., 79. 
 
 Sheppard, J., 6, 50. 
 
 , Thomas, 128. 
 
 Shepherd's Bush, 58. 
 SLerards, 46. 
 Slieridan, 6, 65. 
 Sherlock, Bishop, 51. 
 Shotlev, 15. 
 ShooteVs Hill, 111. 
 Shoot Up Hill, 61. 
 Shovel, Sir C, 35. 
 Shortlands, 21. 
 Shrewsbuiy, Countess of, 90. 
 
 Shrewsbury, Earl of, IS. 
 Sidcup, 96. 
 Siddons, Mrs., 40. 
 Sigillo, de, 52. 
 Sigismund, Emperor, 56» 
 Silvertown, 89. 
 Sion, 6, 72, 73. 
 Skeme, R., 77. 
 Skippon, 13. 
 
 Small Arms Factory, 48. 
 Smith, Albert, 53. 
 Smithson, Sir H., 72. 
 Snaresbrook, 109. 
 Snellinge, M., 77. 
 Snowhill, 135. 
 Somerset, Duke of, 72- 
 Sopwell Priory, 126. 
 Southampton, Lord, 5. 
 Southend, 21, 
 Southgate, 43. 
 
 , New, 21. 
 
 South Sea Bubble, 28. 
 *' Spaniards," 60. 
 Spelthom, 3. 
 Spencer, 14. 
 
 , Earl, 113. 
 
 Spring Grove, 96. 
 
 St. Albans, 44, 124. 
 
 St. Germans, 28. 
 
 St. John, 21. 
 
 St. John's Wood, 4, 61. 
 
 St. Margaret's, 73. 
 
 St. Pancras, 66. 
 
 St. Pancras Cemetery, 50- 
 
 St. Paul's, 5. 
 
 St. Waleric, W., 72. 
 
 Stanislaus, King, 40. 
 
 Stamford Hill, 7. 
 
 Stanmore, Great, 97. 
 
 -, Little, 97. 
 
 Stanton, E., 77. 
 " Star and Garter," 94. 
 Statutes of Merton, 83. 
 " Stella," 93. 
 Stepnev, 5. 
 Stone, K., 57, 108. 
 Strand, 4. 
 Stratford, 8, 97.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 147 
 
 Strawberry Hill, 105. 
 
 Streatham, 11, 98. 
 
 Strype, 81. 
 
 Stuart, Arabella, 20. 
 
 Stukely, Dr., 42. 
 
 Styles, 21. 
 
 Sudbrook, 88. 
 
 Sudbury, 65. 
 
 Suftblk, Countess of, 104. 
 
 , Duke of, 21. 
 
 Sulloniacte, 43, 97. 
 Summer, 14. 
 Sundridge, 26. 
 Surbiton, 76, 78. 
 Surrey, 11. 
 
 , Earl of, 132. 
 
 Sussex, Duke of, 59. 
 Sutton, 14, 27, 99. 
 Swift, Dean, 93. 
 ' Swiftsure,' H.M.S., 22. 
 Sydenham, 86, 99. 
 Sydney, 23, 27. 
 
 Tait, Archbishop, 52. 
 
 Talbot, Earl, 99. 
 
 Tallis, T., 55. 
 
 Tankerville, G., 126. 
 
 Taylor, Sir H., 85. 
 
 Teddin^on, 100. 
 
 Temple Bar, 4. 
 
 Teniers, D., 40. 
 
 Tennyson, poet, 8. 
 
 Terriuk, Bishop, 51. 
 
 Teuton, architect, 41. 
 
 Tezelin, 14. 
 
 Thackeray, 25. 
 
 Thames, 7. 
 
 Thomson, poet, 11, 93, 94. 
 
 Thome's Handbook, 1, 53, 93. 
 
 Thornhill, Sir J., 55. 
 
 Thorpe, J. 121. 
 
 Throckmorton, 22. 
 
 Thrales, 11, 98. 
 
 Tliynne, T., 72. 
 
 Tillotson, Archbishop, 71. 
 
 Tiptoft, Lady, 47. 
 
 Tonson, 18. 
 
 Tooke, J. H., 24, 41, 113. 
 
 Tooting Bee, 98. 
 
 Graveney, 99. 
 
 Tottenham, 6, 101. 
 Totteridge, 102. 
 Trafalgar, 56. 
 Trent Park, 48. 
 Trecothick, 14. 
 Trimmer, Mrs., 75. 
 Tudor, Owen, 16. 
 Turner, J. M. W., 56. 
 Turnliam Green, 32, 103. 
 Turpin, E., 50. 
 Twickenham, 6, 103. 
 Twvfbrd, 4, 105. 
 TybuiTi, 4, 59. 
 Tyler, Wat, 10, 56. 
 Tylney, Earl, 109. 
 
 University of Oxford, 23, 
 Upton, 109. 
 Urswyk, Sir T., 37. 
 
 Valentines, 71. 
 Vanbrugh, 39, 57. 
 Vancouver, Captain, 88. 
 Vandyck, 40, 46, 63, 134. 
 Van Leyden, 63. 
 
 Orlev, 63. 
 
 Vane, Sir H., 60. 
 
 Vansomer, 63, 64, 
 
 Vaughaa, 65. 
 
 Vavasor, Sir J., 88. 
 
 Velasquez, 40, 63. 
 
 Veronese, P., 40. 
 
 Verrio, 63, 134. 
 
 Verulam, 129. 
 
 Vicars, 21. 
 
 Victoria Docks, 89, 116. 
 
 Victoria, Queen, 69, 94, 132. 
 
 " Victoria Kegia," 73, 75. 
 
 Villiers, Lord F., 77. 
 
 Vine at Hampton Court, 62. 
 
 Waddon, 37, 
 
 Walden, Abbev, 57. 
 
 Wales, Prince of, 17, 33, 39, 95. 
 
 , Princess of, 11, 75. 
 
 , Princess Dowagei of, 75.
 
 148 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Waller, E., 72. 
 "Walpolo, Horace, 105. 
 Walsinghara, 11, 31. 
 Walter, J., 100. 
 Wultham, 8, 49, 81, 106. 
 
 ■ Cross, 107. 
 
 Walthamstowe, 108. 
 Walton, 130. 
 Wandle, 35. 37. 
 Wanstead, 108. 
 Warwick, Earl of, 13. 
 
 58. 
 
 Waterlow, Sir S., 69. 
 
 Watling Street, the, 44, 97, 
 
 129. 
 Watteau, 40. 
 AVestburv, Lord, 69. 
 Wtlling,'lll. 
 Wellington, Duke of, 135. 
 Wells, Mother, 48. 
 " Welsh Harp," 79. 
 Weutworth House, 93. 
 West, Bishop, 91. 
 West. Ham, 109. 
 \Ve tmacott, 29. 
 Westminster Abbey, 59. 
 
 , Duke of, 5. 
 
 Weybridge, 130. 
 Wh. thamsted, 127. 
 Whetstone, 20, 50. 
 Whitchurch, 42, 110. 
 White Lodge, 95. 
 Whitehead, P., 100. 
 Whitgift, Archbishop, 36. 
 Whittington, 6, 69. 
 Whitton, 105. 
 Wickham, 111. 
 Wick, Hampton, 62. 
 
 House, 94. 
 
 Wilberforce, 74, 84, 113. 
 
 Wilbraham, Sir E., 57. 
 Wilkes, J,, 100. 
 Willesden, 112. 
 William I., 14, 46, 131. 
 William HI., 6, 62. 
 William IV., 73. 
 Wilson, Bishop, 51. 
 
 . , Sir T. INI., 28, 29, 59, 60. 
 
 Wimbledon, 11, 112. 
 Winchmore Hill, 43. 
 Windsor. 129, 131. 
 
 , Old, 130, 131. 
 
 Park, 135. 
 
 Wiseman, Cardinal, 81. 
 Wolfe, General, 55, 57. 
 Wolsev, Cardinal, 61, 63, 92, 125, 
 
 1:^2," 133. 
 Woodford, 113. 
 Wood Green, 102. 
 Wuodlock, Bishop, 83. 
 Woodstock, Thomas of, 16. 
 Wodwich, 114. 
 
 , North, 41, 116. 
 
 Worcester, 13, 47. 
 
 Park, 37, 82. 
 
 Worlidge, T., 58. 
 Woiton, 73. 
 
 Wr. n, Sir C, 55, 62, 63. 
 Wriothesley, Lord, 81. 
 Wrotham, Kent, 123. 
 
 Park, 58. 
 
 Wyatt, 11. 
 
 , Sir T., 77. 
 
 Wvattville, Sir J., 132, 134. 
 Wyke House, 73. 
 
 York House, 104. 
 
 ZrCCAKELLI, 134. 
 Zucchero, 63, 64, 122. 
 
 LONDON; PJilNTED BT EDTVAED STANFORD, 55, CHAKING CEOSS.
 
 MAPS 
 
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 LONDON in 1658.— AN EXACT DELINEATION OF THE CITYS 
 
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 ENGLAND AND WALES. 
 
 ORDNANCE STJIIVEY of ENGLAND and WALES, pub- 
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 MAPS OP ENGLAND AND WALES. 
 
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 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY of ENGLAND and WALES, 
 
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 GEOLOGICAL MAP of ENGLAND and WALES; by 
 
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 GEOLOGICAL MAP of ENGLAND and WALES ; by the 
 
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 ISLE of WIGHT.— Stanford's Popular Map of tlie Isle of Wight; 
 showing the Roads, Railways, &c„ and distinguishing Remarkable Places. 
 Scale, i mile to 1 inch; size, 18 inches by 23. P'olded in cover, Is.; 
 coloured and mounted on linen, in case. 2s. 
 
 ISLE of MAN.— Stanford's New Map of the Isle of Man : showing the 
 ]>istricts, Sheadings, Parishes, Towns, Villages, and Natural Features. 
 Size, 14 inches by 16. Coloured, in cover, Is. ; or coloured and mounted on 
 linen, 2s. 
 
 Edward Stanford, 55, Charing Cross, London.
 
 GUIDE BOOKS. 
 
 GUIDE BOOKS FOR ENGLISH TOURISTS, 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
 ED^A/ARD STANFORD, 
 
 55 CHAEINa CEOSS, S.W, 
 
 ENGLISH LAKES. — JEXKIXSOX'S PRACTICAL GtJIDE TO 
 THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICTS. Containing full Information and 
 Instructions respecting Walks, Drives, Boating, Ascents, Excursions, &c., 
 with Charges for Conveyances, Ponies, and Guides ; Heights of Movmtains, 
 Lakes, Tarns, and Passeo ; Local Xames ; Meteorology, Geology, and 
 Botanj'. Fifth Edition, with 2sine Maps and Three Panoramic Views, 
 fcap. 8V0, cloth, 6i. 
 
 %* The Sections separately: — Keswick — Wi>TC>ER>EEREandLAXGDALE 
 — CoxisTOX, BcTTEEMEKE, and Wastwatek— ^trasmehe and Ulls- 
 watee, with Maps, Is. 6d. each. 
 Also, A SMALLER PRACTICAL GUIDE to the English Lakes, by the 
 same Author. With Maps, Is. Gd. 
 
 ISLE OF MAN.— JEXKIXSON'S PRACTICAL GUIDE TO THE ISLE 
 OF MAN. Fcap. Svo, with Map, cloth, 5s. 
 Also, A SMALLER PRACTICAL GUIDE to the Isle of Man, by the same 
 Author. With Map, 2s. 
 
 CARLISLE, ROMAN WALL, &c.— JENKTN'SON'S PRACTICAL 
 GUIDE TO CARLISLE, GILSLAXD, the ROMAN WALL, and NEIGH- 
 BOURHOOD. Fcap. Svo, cloth, with Map, 5s. 
 Also, A SMALLER PRACTICAL GUIDE to Carlisle, &c., by the same 
 
 Author. With Map, 2s. 
 
 ISLE OF WIGHT.— JENKINSON'S PRACTICAL GUIDE TO THE 
 ISLE OF WIGHT. Fcap. Svo, cloth, with Frontispiece and Sis Maps, 5s. 
 Also, A SMALLER PRACTICAL GUIDE to the Isle of Wight, by the same 
 Author. With Map, 2s. 
 
 LONDON GUIDE.— What, and How to See, with Times, Prices, Routes, 
 Fares, &c., arranged Alphabetically and in Tables for ready reference. 
 Crown svo, with -Map, 3s. 6d. 
 
 ROUND ABOUT LONDON. — TOURIST'S GUIDE TO THE 
 COUNTRY WITHIN A CIRCLE OF TWELVE MILES ROUND 
 ABOUT LONDON. Comprising a List of the Parishes, Towns, Villages, 
 Hamlets, Parks, Seats, Churches, Livings, Monuments, and Eminent 
 Inhabitants. With Historical, Archwological, Architectural, and Pic- 
 turesque Notes, suitable for the Tourist, Antiquarian, and Artist. Com- 
 piled from the best ancient and modem authorities and from actual 
 observation. To which is added a Series of Specimens of Walking 
 Excursions: limited to Six Miles, and Visits to Hatheld, Knole, St. Albans, 
 and Windsor, with a copious Index. By A Fellow of the SociETr of 
 ANTIQUARIES. Fcap. Svo, cloth, with Map, 2s. 
 
 Edward Stanford, 55, Charing Cross, London.
 
 GUIDE BOOKS. 
 
 YORKSHIRE.— TOURIST'S GUIDE TO THE EAST AND NORTH 
 RIDINGS OF YORKSHIRE.— Containing full Information concerning 
 all the favourite Places of Resort, both on the Coast and Inland. By 
 G. Phillips Bevan, F.G5. With Map, and Plan of York Minster. 
 Feap. 8vo, cloth, 2s. 
 
 YORKSHIRE.— TOURIST'S GUIDE TO THE WEST RIDING OF 
 YORKSHIKE. Containing full Information concerning all its Principal 
 Places of Resort and Interest. By G. Phillips Bevan, F.G.S. Fcap. 8vo, 
 cloth, -with Maps, 2s. 
 
 DERBY.— TOURIST'S GUIDE TO THE COUNTY OF DERBY. With 
 
 full Information relative to the principal Places and Objects of Interest 
 therein. By J. C. Cox, author of 'Notes on the Churches of Derbyshire.' 
 With Map. Fcap. 8vo, cloth, 2s. 
 
 KENT.-TOURISTS GUIDE TO THE COUNTY OF KENT. Containing 
 full Information concerning all its favourite Places of Resort, both on the 
 Coast and Inland, with General Description of the County, and Instructions 
 respecting Excursions by Railway, Steamboat, and Road. By G. Phillips 
 Beaax, F.G.S. Fcap. 8vo, cloth, with Map and Plans of Canterbury and 
 Rochester Cathedrals, 2s. 
 
 SUSSEX.— TOURIST'S GUIDE TO THE COUNTY OF SUSSEX. 
 Containing full Information concerning all its favourite Places of Resort, 
 both on the Coast and Inland. By G. F. Chambers, F.R.A..S., Barrister- 
 at-Law ; author of ' A Handbook for Eastbourne,' &c. Fcap. 8vo, with 
 Map, and Plan of Chichester Cathedral, cloth, 2s. 
 
 DEVON.— TOURISTS GUIDE TO SOUTH DEVON: Rail, Road, River, 
 Coast, and Moor. By R. N. Worth, F.G.S., kc. ; author of ' History of 
 Plymouth,' ' The Progress of IMining Skill in the West of England,' &c. 
 With Map, and Flan of Exeter Cathedral. Fcap. 8vo, cloth, 2s. 
 
 CORNWAIili.— TOURIST'S GUIDE TO CORNWALL AND THE 
 SCILL.Y ISLES. Containing Information concerning all the Principal 
 Places and Objects of Interest in the County. By Walter H. Teegellas, 
 Chief Draughtsman, War OfiBce. With Map. Fcap. 8vo, cloth, 2s. 
 
 EASTBOURNE. —HANDBOOK FOR EASTBOURNE, SEAFORD, 
 AND THE NEIGHBOURHOOD. By G. F. Chambers, F.R.A.S., 
 Barrister-at-Law. Eighth Edition, crown 8vo, Is. ; with Map, Is. Ad., in 
 cloth, with ]Maps, 2s. 
 
 WEYMOUTH.— GUIDE TO THE GEOLOGY OF WEYMOUTH 
 AND THE ISLAND OF PORTLAND; containing a Geological Map of 
 the District, Geological Sections, Coast Views, Figures of the characteristic 
 Fossils, and other Illustrations ; with numerous Notes on the Botany and 
 Zoology of the Coast and Neighbotu-hood. By Robert Damox. Fcap. 8vo, 
 cloth, 5s. 
 
 A Supplement to the above, consisting of Nine Lithographic Plates of 
 Fossils, drawn by Boxe. 2s. 6d. 
 
 CHANNEL ISLANDS.— GUIDE TO JERSEY AND GUERNSEY; 
 
 with Notes on their History, Geology, Climate, Agriculture, Laws, &c. 
 By F. F. Dally. Third Edition, with Maps, fcap. 8vo, cloth, 3s. 6d. 
 
 Edward Stanford, 55, Charing Cross, London.
 
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