CKLEY .tRN BOOKS E. Stark St. -AND 15, ORE. THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES TO THE HON. JAMES EMOTT, OF POCGHKEEPSIE, rHB FOLLOWING PAGES ARE RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, IN TESTIMONY OP THB man APPRECIATION IN WHICH HE is HELD BY IT13 FRIEND AND SERVANT, THE AUTHOR. PREFACE. THE following letters were originally writ- ten for the American Traveller. They were commenced without the remotest expecta- tion of their obtaining a circulation beyond that print. They have, however, been cop- ied into other journals, and it has occurred to the writer, that their publication in a con- nected form, might prove interesting and use- ful to the thousands who travel for business or pleasure in the steamboats that daily navi- gate the Hudson River. The letters, he is aware, possess no pecu- liar merit. They are plain, matter-of-fact epistles ; embracing, however, a variety of geographical, historical, statistical, and other matter, connected with the noble river, and the flourishing villages on its borders. As several important villages and towns on the river have been very briefly noticed, or altogether passed by, it is the purpose of the writer to continue his epistles to the Edi- 1* V PREFACE. tor of the Traveller ; and should the present collection meet with encouragement, a second series, a volume of corresponding size and appearance, will, in the course of the coming fall, or ensuing spring, be published. The writer would not omit this opportu- nity of acknowledging his obligations to Capt. Lathrop, A. J. Downing, Esq., P. Potter, Esq., and several other gentlemen, for the facilities afforded by them, severally, in procuring much valuable information. New York, July 25, 1836. NOTE TO THE THIRD EDITION. It was the intention of the writer of the following series of letters, to have introduced a sketch of the history of steam navigation on the Hudson ; and, to gratify the cu- riosity of the distant reader, to have described the splen- did boats that plough its waters : to have spoken of the speed of the Swallow, Erie, Champlain, Robert L. Stevens, Utica, and Rochester ; of the elegance and comfort of the North America, Ohio, De Witt Clinton, and Albany, and of their efficient and gentlemanly officers. The boats on the North and East Rivers, are not surpassed by any in the world, for splendor or speed. Several towns have also been omitted, as well as the names of individu- als who have done the " state some service ;" but should another edition be called for, the writer will introduce other matters, that would prove interesting to him that travels up and down the river, and to him, who may thank Providence that he dwells on its beautiful banks, and in- hales its healthful and invigorating breeze. CONTENTS. Page LETTER 1 11 Poughkeepsie Location Products of Dutchess County Population of Poughkeepsie Sidewalks Churches Enterpri- sing men Education College and Academies Remarkable rise of real estate Cause of it A place for mechanics Pros- pect from Mansion Square Hatch's Hotel, etc. LETTER II 16 Col. Stone's description of the view from College Hill Streets Reservoir Whaling Companies Manufacture of Silk New Whale Ship Anecdote Good Wives. LSTTEBlII 20 Peekskill High tide East winds High-School Paulding's Monument Visit to Gen. Van Courtlandt Antony's Nose Bank Religious Societies Hotels Capt. Tuthill Steamboat Union. LBTTEBlV 28 Dobbs' Ferry Tarry town Population Washington Irving- Churches Circumstances at a Hotel, or treatment of travellers The place of Andre's capture An old Dutch Church Rev. Mr. Smith Schools Road to White Plains Inscription on Van Wart's Monument White Plains Imprisonment for debt. LETTER V. 37 Put up at the Mansion House Troy a prominent point of inter- est Visit to Mrs. Willard's Female Seminary The Amateur Vocalist Mrs. Willard's zeal in the cause of Education, etc. Till CONTENTS. Page LETTER VI ..................................................... 43 Location and plan of Troy Public Buildings View from Mount Ida Original proprietor of the City Historical notice- Religious Societies Banks and Insurance Companies Water Works Fountains Washington Square Legrand Cannon's Building Causes of prosperity Self-made men Gov. Marcy an Attorney. 51 Revolutionary Reminiscences Tree near the Academy Ex- ecution of Strang and Palmer Gen. Putnam's memorable Let- terCircumstances which led to the capture of Major Andre- Vignette on the bills of Westchester Bank, etc. LBTTEBVHI ................................................... 60 Origin of "Sing Sing" Statistics Description of Sing Sing Prison The Chaplain System of Discipline The Lynd System Folger and Matthias Mount Pleasant Academy Franklin Academy The Newspaper Public House, etc. LETTER IX ..................................................... 69 Views of the Hudson Historical Items The Hudson a Lake The old man's story. LETTER X ...................................................... 77 The Travellers' Home Mansion House, and its new proprie- tor Troy House Washington Hall Apology The Rail Road Cars Description of Troy Bridge, etc. Route to Balston and Saratoga Springs Revolutionary Reminiscence Battle at Be- mis' Heights Distance to Balston" Sans Souci" Balston Re- turn to Troy Henry Burden His residence His genius, etc. Reading Room, Troy West Troy Its business M'Adamized road to Albany Stages, etc. LBTTBRXI ..................................................... 96 Revolutionary Reminiscences of the Hudson Fort Edward- General Lyman Story of the fate of Miss Jane M'Crea. CONTENTS. IX Page LETTER XII 108 Master Lipsey's Boat Revolutionary Incident The Boat Club The passing of a Steamboat Cold Spring Col. George P. Morris's Mansion Scenery Old Cro'-Nest Magnificent Site Description of Col. Morris's House The Gardener of an English Earl Mischief of Ignorance Our Lady of Cold Spring Lines for Music, etc. LETTER xm 112 Strictures on Albany The Clergy Historical sketch of Al- bany Head-Quarters of Gen. Layfayette Mrs. Grant's descrip- tion of Albany in olden time Manner of living there Hermit- ageGentle treatment of slaves among the Albanians Conse- quent attachment of domestics, etc. LETTER XTV 131 Academies and Common Schools Albany Academy for Boys Dr. Beck The Female Academy Introduced by Mr. Critten- ton to the Different Departments The plan of Instruction Dr. Barber's System of Elocution " The Language of the Flowers," a poetical effusion from a young Lady of the Academy Descrip- tion of the Building Location, etc. The Baptist Church The old Capitol Architectural description of the new State Hall Of St. Paul's Church South Dutch Church The Old Stone Pulpit North Dutch Church. LETTER XV 151 Revisit Poughkeepsie Rapid Progress of Improvement New Silk Factory Inventive genius of Gen. Harvey Patent, Screw Company Coining Money Patent Saw for felling trees Patent Stock Frames Advantages of Poughkeepsie, etc. Report of the Inspectors of Grain Dutchess Plains Scenery Poetry- Ride to Hyde Park Derivation of the name The late Dr. Ho- sack's place Churches and population Cultivated grounds- Death of Dr. Hosack, etc. X CONTENTS. LWTTER XVI 16i How the writer obtained the History of the Military Academy at West Point Lt. Roswell Park West Point a place of inter- estHallowed by Washington, Kosclusko, Lafayette, etc. View of West Point after entering the Mountain Gap above The Monuments Links of the chain broken by the British vessels in 1777 Early History of the Academy The Officers Practi- cal considerations which should influence those who are seek- ing or who may gain admission to the Military Academy, etc. LETTER XVII 189 Settlement of Newburgh Location Population Showy ap- pearance from the River Place of business Steamboats Ex- tensive manufacture of Bricks in Newburgh and vicinity Iron Foundry Newburgh Brewery Col. Crawford's extensive Storehouse Business crowded into one street Botanic Gardens and Nursery of the Messrs. Downing Description of the same J. W. Knevels' collection of exotic Plants, the most extensive in the country View from Beacon Hill Splendid Scenery Reasons for supposing the Hudson was once a Lake Washing- ton's Head-Quarters The United States Hotel Walden, a man- ufacturing village on the Walkill Its resources, etc. LBTTSR XVIII 201 Original purchase and first settlement of Hudson The Whale Fishery Reverses of Hudson Hudson and Berkshire Rail Road Statistical Estimates Girard College Lebanon Springs Capital, &c., of Whaling Companies Capt. Paddock The Shipping of Hudson Rail Road ropes Alexander Coffin Cap- tain Gordon New Court House and Jail Private Dwellings- Churches Doctor White's Asylum for the Insane Education Distinguished men of Hudson Grave of Lieut. Win. II. Allen Col. Jenkins Location of Hudson, &c. Views North Bay View from Prospect Hill Steamboats Banking Capital Vil- lage of Athens Ferry r &c. LETTER XIX W Literary Institutions of Poughkeepsie Distinguished Men- Stranger's Grave Public Journals Manufactures Mines of Dutchess County, &c. &,c. SARATOGA SPRINOB . 244 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON, &c. LETTER I. Poughkeepsie Location Products of Dutchess County- Population of Poughkeepsie Sidewalks Churches En- terprising men Education College and Academies Re~ markable rise of real estate Cause of it A place for me~ chanics Prospect from Mansion Square Hatch's Ho* tel, etc. Poughkeepsie, N. Y., Sept. 5, 1835. DEAR P. In my last from New York city, I promised the disclosure of some facts relative to this interesting and flourishing village. But the peculiar advantages of its location, its rapidly in- creasing population, the public spirit of the citi- zens, the great advance of real estate, and the in- troduction of new sources of improvement and wealth, have been of late so generally the subject of newspaper remark, that I am fearful I shall not be able to add much that is new or interesting to the general stock. But to begin. Poughkeepsie may justly rank with the first villages in New- York or New England. Indeed, I am not ac- quainted with a single village which in some im- portant particulars equals it, and but few that will 12 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. bear a favourable comparison. It is situated on the east bank of the Hudson, midway between Albany and New York. It is the court town of the rich- est county save one in the " Empire State," and as a highly cultivated agricultural county, it is, I ap- prehend, unsurpassed by any other in the Union. The gross products of the county, from its soil, its mines, and its manufactories, are believed by per- sons best qualified to judge, to approach very near to five millions of dollars per annum. The pro- ducts of Dutchess and Ulster counties, and a por- tion of the western towns of Connecticut, are brought to this village, where they are shipped for the great commercial market. The village is very compact the streets numerous, spacious, and well paved. The sidewalks too are neatly paved, and give the traveller a very favourable impression of the public spirit of the corporation. The popula- tion of the village in 1830 was 5022, and the town about 7000; now the population of the village exceeds 7000, and the town contains well nigh 10,000. The assessment of real estate in the cor- poration in 1834 was $1,099,085; of personal, $937,700. There are seven places of public wor- ship : one Baptist, two Friends, one Episcopal, one Methodist, one Presbyterian, and one Dutch Re- formed. The Episcopal church is a beautiful Gothic edifice. It was built in 1833. A second LETTERS ABOUT THfi HUDSOW. 13 Episcopal church is about being erected. A se- cond Presbyterian church is now going up, and another Baptist and Catholic church are, I un- derstand, to be commenced without delay. The public spirit of such men as Cunningham, Tal- madge, Potter, Oakley, Vassar, Hatch, and a few others, gentlemen of intelligence and liberality, will not stop till it has given the place not only a beautiful external appearance and a business char- acter, but endowed it with the means of education and intellectual improvement. They have project- ed, and are making rapid efforts for building a large and commodious academy for girls and boys ; and a lofty and one of the most beautiful sites in the county has been purchased, on which an im- posing edifice is to be built, to be occupied as a collegiate school of the highest order. Another is to be erected and liberally endowed for young la- dies. These advantages of general education, will unquestionably hold out inducements of the most powerful kind, to wealthy gentlemen with families to settle in this healthy and delightful village. At b. recent sale of land, quite a number of persons of this description were present, and one hundred and eighty-three lots of ground, suitable for house lots, together with a farm of one hundred and three acres, situated two miles south of the courthouse, were sold for $79,279. Lots which were sold 2 14 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. eighteen months since for $600, have been sold for $4000. A plot of fourteen acres in the suburbs of the village, which was purchased ten months since for $4000, was recently sold for $14,000. An- other plot, which could have been purchased nine months before for $10,000, was sold a few days since for $24,000. A farm in the vicinity, which was offered twenty months since for $22,000, has lately been sold for $68,000. A lot in the village, purchased sixty days since for $2000, has been sold for $5000. This enumeration of facts I have from the most unquestionable authority. Some view this rise as the result of the " speculating ma- nia," which exists all over the country at this time. But I must, I confess, concur with an intelligent gentleman of New England, whom I have just seen, in the opinion, that the primary cause of this advance is to be found in the enterprise and public spirit manifested by the gentlemen alluded to above, and which now seems to prevail with the whole population. Few places in the country afford better oppor- tunities for ingenious and industrious mechanics. The enterprising gentlemen who are labouring with laudable zeal to promote the growth of Pough- keepsie, have struck out a course which cannot fail of success, that of introducing new branches of business ; hence every ingenious mechanic is ta- LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON, 15 ken by the hand, and every facility afforded him for starting and prosecuting his business. I have, perhaps, already extended my letter be- yond the limits allotted a correspondent; but I consider the general diffusion of the statistical, commercial, and geographical knowledge of inter- esting portions of our wide-spread republic, of vast importance to enterprising Yankees; and as your paper has an extensive circulation, and particu- larly in our best hotels, where such information is eagerly sought for by the traveller, I feel per- suaded that the space occupied will not be thrown away, and therefore, with your permission, I shall devote one or two letters more to this place. The delightful prospect from Mansion Square, and the neighbouring hill, which affords the most extended view of hill and dale, cultivated to a charm, the courteous and intelligent society, and the comforts of one of the best hotels in the country, have ren- dered my tarry very pleasant, and induced me to linger much longer than I anticipated on my ar- rival. It is scarcely necessary, but in justice I am induced to mention, that the hotel alluded to, is now kept, and has been for the last seven years, by Messrs. A. S. Hatch & Son and a more airy, comfortable, and commodious house, or more cour- teous and gentlemanly hosts, I have seldom met with in my journeyings. LETTER II. Col. Stones description of the view from College Hill- Streets Reservoir Whaling Companies Manufacture of Silk New Whale Ship Anecdote Good Wives. Poughkeepsie, Sept SB, 1836. DEAR P. Since writing my last from this place I have seen the letters of Col. Stone, the elite edi- tor of the Commercial Advertiser, written while " luxuriating" on the delicacies of the Mansion House, and although I alluded to the splendid views afforded from the hill in the vicinity of " Mansion Square," whose brow is to be crowned with the classi temple of learning, I cannot re- frain from introducing a passage from the Colonel's graphic description. He says : " It is neither of steep nor of diffi- cult access, and is sufficiently elevated to afford a landscape of great extent, and of mingled grandeur and beauty. It will be studded with villas on all sides to its base. On the south, it will overlook the town of Poughkeepsie and the beautiful district of country, fhence to the Fishkill range of mountains and the highlands. On the west and the north, the Shawangunk and the Catskill mountains rear their azure crests in the distance, the Hudson si- LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 17 lently rolling his mighty volume of waters through the vale below ; while on the east the prospect is only hounded by the mountainous regions of west- ern Connecticut and Massachusetts. And on all sides, within the circle I have thus indicated, the landscape is of surpassing beauty composed of fertile villas and gently swelling hills of farms, orchards, and gardens, in a high state of cultiva- tion, studded with villas, and ornamented with for- ests of various timber among which are the oak and the locust. Such will be the position of the Poughkeepsie University the eye resting, on which soever side it falls, upon a country resem- bling an immense garden rich, fertile, beautiful !" Since 1831, more than $100,000 have been exr pended in opening, regulating, and paving streets. A reservoir has been built on an eminence about half a mile from Hatch's Hotel, for supplying the village with water for the extinguishment of fires, at an expense of from 25 to $30,000, showing a degree of liberality on the part of the corporation, not surpassed, if we take into the account the rela- tive means, by the city of New York, in their pro- ject for bringing spring water to that city. Two whaling companies, with a capital of $200,000 each, have been established. A company for the growing and the manufacture of silk, with a capi- tal of $200,000, has commenced the erection of a 2* 18 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON'. brick factory, thirty-six by one hundred feet, four stories high. The silk factory will be in opera- tion before the close of the present season. One of the ships now building in the extensive shipyard of Messrs. Tooker & Hait is to be called the Nathaniel P. Tallmadge, a compliment to that gentleman, as merited as it is just; for to his liberal and enterprising spirit, in a great meas- ure, belongs the present prosperity and future pros- pects of the village. And here I cannot refrain from relating an an- ecdote of one of the gentlemen who have been very active in every laudable effort to promote the good of Poughkeepsie. Possessed of ample resources, but a heart much larger than his ability, his libe- rality was scarcely circumscribed by his means ; his purse and his credit were never solicited in vain. His resources, however, in time failed, and he became a bankrupt ; but in order to provide for his family, he commenced the business of a broker, and as usual, before the traffic was prohibited by law, sold lottery tickets. At the drawing, half a ticket was left on his hands, and that ticket came out a .prize of $50,000 ; and although he had ta- ken the benefit of the insolvent act, and was not of course legally obliged, he very magnanimously paid every creditor to "the uttermost farthing." He had something left. Fortune has continued to LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 19 smile on the liberal soul, and he is now once more independent, actively engaged in advancing the public good. Such men are an honour to human nature. Would to God we had them in every vil- lage throughout our wide spread country. By the way, friend Porter, if you have any young men in your goodly city in want of wives, and good ones I have no doubt some of the fair are certainly very beautiful I advise you to send them on forthwith to the care of our gallant young friend of the Poughkeepsie Hotel, as there are in the village, according to a census just completed, one thousand one hundred and thirteen unmarried young ladies, ready, doubtless, to enter into the blissful estate of matrimony. Hatch takes the best care of all visiters, whatever may be their business, when put under his protection. Adieu for the present. Yours, &c. LETTER III. Peekskill High tide-East winds High-school Paulding's monument Visit to Gen. Van Courtlandt Antony's Nose Bank Religious societies Hotels Capt. Tuthill Steam- boat Union. Peekskill, Sept. 1835. FRIEND P. Here I am, at Peekskill, com- pletely hemmed in by the overflowing tide of the Hudson. The street in front of the house is cov- ered with water ankle deep, and still increasing. The water has nearly reached the window where I sit writing, which overlooks the river to Cald- well's Landing, and the noble Dunderberg but two miles distant, yet scarcely visible in consequence of the dense state of the atmosphere. Peekskill is about forty-five miles from New York, containing well nigh fifteen hundred inhabit- ants, and with a little more enterprise would, from its pleasant and healthy location, and its proximity to the city of New York, become a place of consid- erable mercantile importance. The high tide, al- luded to above, is not an uncommon occurrence at this season of the year on the river. The east winds are not one half so unpleasant in their effects upon the system here as in your city. They be- LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 21 come somewhat softened in their passage over the country; and the highlands of the north stand up as an impregnable barrier to keep off these "down east" intruders. But for Peekskill. The most interesting evi- dence that there is a spark of public spirit ex- isting in this ancient settlement, which will sooner or later burst into a flame, is to be found in the establishment of a high-school, and the erection of a very neat, spacious and appropriate edifice for that purpose, on a most delightful eminence; where the healthful and invigorating breeze from the tow- ering mountains in the vicinity, pours forth its " medicinal" influence ; and where the soul alive to the sentiments of beauty, variety, and sublimity, can view with rapture the variegated and pictur- esque scenery, the beautiful and expansive bay, the towering and gigantic Dunderberg, the " race," and the opening of the majestic highlands. But my pen affords an altogether inadequate descrip- tion of the scene. Peekskill is certainly well sit- uated for purposes of education ; furnishing, as it does, facilities for communicating daily, nay almost hourly, with the great city ; and from my own per- sonal inference, as well as the testimony of others, I doubt whether there is a place in the whole range of the Hudson, where health can be more con- veniently sought, or more surely gained. The 99 LETTERS ABOUT THE HtDSOK. academy was built with a capital stock, divided into shares of five dollars each, and taken up princi- pally by the inhabitants of the village. The prin- cipal, Mr. Thompson, is a very worthy, intelligent teacher. The present number of pupils is about sixty. Board is furnished in the same building to scholars, whose parents do not reside in the vil- lage. It should not be forgotten that this is the birth- place of John Paulding, the American farmer, who intercepted Andre, the British spy, at Tarrytown, some fifteen miles below this place. I rode out to his monument a few days since. It is situated about two miles to the north of the village. The monument is of marble, a pyramid, about fifteen feet high, running to a point. It is enclosed in an iron railing about twelve feet square. The main inscription is on the south side, and runs thus : " Here reposes the mortal remains of JOHN PAULDING, Who died on the 18th day of February, 1818, in the 60th year of his age. On the morning of the 23d of September, 1780, Accompanied by two young farmers of the county of Westchester, (Whose names will one day be recorded on their own deserved monuments,) LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 23 He intercepted the British Spy, Andre. Poor Himself, He disdained to acquire wealth by sacrificing His Country. Rejecting the temptation of great rewards, He conveyed his prisoner to the American camp, And By this act of noble self-denial, The treason of Arnold was detected; The designs of the enmy baffled ; West Point and the American Army saved) And these U. S. Now by the grace of God free and independent, Rescued from imminent peril." On the opposite side is written " The Corporation of the City of New York Erect this tomb as a memorial Raised to Public Gratitude." On the east side is a beautiful wreath engraved on the marble with the word "Fidelity." The inscription on the other side I have forgotten. On the way to the monument, and but a few this side, is the residence of Gen. Pierre Van 21 LSTTEHS ABOUT THE HUDSON. Courtlandt, an old gentleman of sixty. I called on him and spent an hour very pleasantly. He was reading "Horse Shoe Robinson," and remarked, as he laid it down, that he was not a little inter- ested with it, as he liked every tiling which rela- ted to the revolutionary war. His father was an officer in that war, and his grandfather was the first Lieutenant Governor of this State ; an office which he held for more than twenty years. The place where he lives, and all his real estate, he holds by the will of his father ; and the original grant bf the British King to his grandfather. Gen. V. is the owner of Antony's Nose, (on the river,) as it is called. He gave me the origin of that name. Before the revolution, a vessel was passing up the river, under the command of a Capt. Hogans ; when immediately opposite this mountain, the mate looked rather quizzically, first at the mountain, and then at the captain's nose. The captain, by the way, had an enormous nose, which was not un- frequently the subject of good-natured remark; and he at once understood the mate's allusion. " What," says the captain, " does that look like my nose 1 call it then if you please Antony's nose." The" story was repeated on shore, and the mountain thenceforward assumed the name, and has thus be- come an everlasting monument to the memory of the redoubtable Capt. Antony Hogans and his nose. LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 25 The elevation of Antony's Nose is one thousand two hundred and twenty-eight feet from the level of the river, and directly opposite Fort Montgomery Creek. Washington Irving supposes its name to be derived from the nose of Antony Van Corlaer. It differs from the origin given me by Gen. V. The christening of the mount is described in the story of the Dutch governor's first voyage up the Hudson, as follows : " Just at this moment the illus- trious sun, breaking in all his splendour from be- hind one of the high cliffs of the Highlands, did dart one of his most potent beams full upon the re- fulgent nose of the sounder of brass. The reflection of which shot straightway down, hissing hot into the water, and killed a mighty sturgeon that was sporting beside the vessel ! When this astonishing miracle came to be made known to Peter Stuyve- sant (the governor,) he, as may well be supposed, marvelled exceedingly ; and as a monument thereof, gave the name of Antony's Nose to a stout prom- ontory in the neighbourhood, and it has continued to be called Antony's Nose ever since." From here to Fort Montgomery, which is now in ruins, on the opposite side, a large boom and chain was extended during the revolutionary war, which cost about seventy thousand pounds sterling. It was partly destroyed by Gen. Sir Henry Clinton, in Oc* tober, 1777. 3 96 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. Gen. V. gave me the time from a small bull's eye gold watch, which he drew from his fob, and which he said must be at least one hundred and fifty years old, as it was the property of his great- great grandfather, and had come down regularly to him. After drinking the hospitable General's health, in a glass of fine old Madeira, I took my depar- ture. The residence of Gen. Van Courtlandt is antique, but the grounds around are in the highest state of cultivation. A Bank, with a capital of $200,000, was established in Peekskill about tvro years since, and General V. was elected President. It is in a flourishing condition. The stock has sold at almost as great an advance as ever the United States Bank stock did. There is a bust of Gen. Van Courtlandt's father in the bank. The produce of many towns in Westchester, and most of the towns in Putnam county, is shipped in the Peekskill sloops for New York. There are seven which are constantly in motion, with produce of various kinds for the New York market. There are six religious societies in Peekskill - two Friends or Quakers one Presbyterian one Dutch Reformed one Methodist one Universal- ist and an Episcopal Church is about being erect- ed. With a portion of the funds of the Trinity corporation, it will doubtless flourish. LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 27 The Hotels in Peekskill are not remarkable for the splendour of their construction, or their commo- diousness, neither are they managed with remark- able liberality or comfort. I would, however, ex- cept the house kept by Col. Williams, who, by the way, is a very gentlemanly, worthy man ; and has the reputation of keeping a good house, al- though I have had no opportunity of judging. He is about removing into a neat and spacious build- ing, which is nearly finished, and then I hope to speak more understandingly of his establishment. A new hotel is soon to be erected on Antony's Nose, as a summer house. Although I have "spun out" this epistle to a great length, I cannot forbear the present opportu- nity of alluding to the fine little steamer Union, which plies between New York and this village daily, landing passengers at Greenburgh, Yon- kers, Tarrytown, Sing Sing, Grassy Point, and Caldwell's. Capt. Tuthill, of the Union, is an af- fable, courteous officer. He unites these qualities with great experience, having been connected with the Hudson River steamboats for more than twelve years. A few days since, a party of gentlemen presented him with a splendid silver pitcher, as a token of their respect for his private worth, and excellent conduct as a steam navigator. But I must close. Adieu for the present. LETTER IV. Dobbs' Ferry Tarrytown Population Washington Ir- ving Churdies Circumstances at a Hotel, or treatment of travellers The place of Andre's capture An old Dutch Church Rev. Mr. Smith Schools Road to White Plains Inscription on Van Wart's Monument White Plains Imprisonment for debt. New York, Oct. 20, 1836. FRIEND P. On Wednesday I left New York m the good steamer Union, "not knowing the things that would befall me." * * * I, however, landed at Dobb's Ferry, about twenty miles up the Hudson, and lingered about the place two hours, viewing the thrifty orchards and highly cultivated grounds of Livingston and Constant, and then took private conveyance to Tarrytown. Dobb's Ferry and Tarrytown are two small villa- ges in the township of Greenburgh, both market and steamboat landings, situated about five miles apart on the east side of the Hudson. The popu- lation of the whole township does not exceed fifteen hundred. There are a number of delightful, picturesque, and extensive prospects, and several wealthy gen- tlemen farmers reside in the vicinity. On our road to Tarrytown we passed the elegant man- LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 29 sion of a Mr. Hamilton, son of Alexander Hamil- ton, the distinguished statesman, who fell in a duel with the ambitious Burr. A quarter of a mile from the main road towards the Hudson, about midway between Dobbs' Ferry and Tarrytown, is the residence of Oscar Irving, a nephew of our distinguished countryman, Washington Irving, who is erecting a cottage near that of his relatives, where he intends to pass his life in rural retire- ment, and the pursuit of literature and learning. His elegant and graphic pen, and his chastened and classic imagination, will add ne\v charms to the noble, the majestic, the exquisite scenery of the Hudson. With a heart alive to the emotions of benevolence, and with habits congenial to the genius of domestic bliss, 1 am not a little surprised that one who has portrayed with grace and delicacy, and has in his works rendered the most exalted tribute to the female character, should so long re- main in " single-blessedness," as a certain condition is sometimes falsely called. But the busy tongue of rumour says, that the charm of celibacy will soon be broken, and that the best of writers, will become the best of husbands. So mote it be. At Dobbs' Ferry there are two places of public worship. A Presbyterian meeting house, a small wooden building; and a neat little Episcopal church, built of stone, in the gothic order. There are two 3* 30 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. public houses, and a post-office. On the land of Livingston, are the remains of an old fort thrown up in the war of the revolution. Harvey, the painter, resides here. The village has a " newness" which indicates improvement. Building lots, and farms I am told, advance with the general rise all over the country. On my arrival at Tarrytown, I put up at a place purporting to be a Hotel ; but unlike any thing I ever before visited ; and God forbid that I should ever " see the like again." It was towards sun- down when I arrived. My small baggage I took to my lodgings, and coming down, I inquired of a young woman, a daughter of " mine host," the hour of tea. " Oh," said she, " some time after dark, when the folks come in from picking apples." This answer sounded rather queer and indefinite, but I let it pass. Appearances were much in fa- vour of the house: it was neat the beds were com- fortable, and every thing around had an air of cleanliness. The next morning, at breakfast, " mine host" was repeating a quarrel which took place be- tween him and a lodger during the night. He said " he would not entertain these d d Yan- kees he was rich enough to live without keeping a public house, and those who stopped with him must behave themselves and do as he wished them, or he'd kick them out quicker than they came in." LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 31 He was, however, very civil to me that day. In the evening, I called on a reverend gentleman, and returned about nine, when I found the house closed and barred, and not the glimmer of a light to mark the mansion of the living. A few gentle taps, however, brought " mine host," in the condition so delicately and so graphically described by Tom Cringle. The door opened, and the mouth of "mine host" at about the same time, in tones of corresponding harmony (vocal and instrumental) " What are you out so late for ?" said he. I made no reply, but took the light from the " impu- dent varlet's" hand, and made my way to bed. The next morning I arose at half past 7, and seeing no indications of approaching breakfast, I sallied forth in pursuit of a barber, which not rinding, I return- ed, and inquired if breakfast was ready. " We have been to breakfast," said the hostess. "Been to breakfast! why didn't you call me, madam?" said I. " We have other business to attend to with- out calling folks up to breakfast," said she. " Well then," said I, " you may attend to it give me my bill, if you please, madam." I paid my bill, two shillings and sixpence a meal, including boiled pork and cabbage, and exclusive of any thing else, save and except potatoes, turnips, and onions, in one miscellaneous dish of salmagundi. I related my sufferings to the good people of 32 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. Tarrytown, and excited no little commiseration, and the most courteous and friendly proffers of kindness and hospitality ; but as I intended leaving town that day, I declined the invitations. I found, however, that the host and his house were well known, and that scarce a traveller stopt there with- out having some difficulty with the ignorant booby who pretends to keep a hotel. Indeed, many trav- ellers go four or five miles out of the way, to avoid stopping at this house. I have related these cir- cumstances for the benefit of your numerous sub- scribers in this State, and those who may chance to pass through this place, and hear the name of Smith of the " Tarrytown Hotel." Tarrytown is a still, quiet village, famed in the history of the first American war, as the place where Andre was captured by Paulding and his associates. No monument marks the spot where this scene occurred, although it is pretty accurately ascertained. The inhabitants of the village made the attempt some years ago, but for want of energy and spirit did not accomplish the design. It was a memorable event, and one of great importance to our national liberty, and some monument should tell the place and record the circumstances. It is said that the tree, under which Andre was taken, was struck by lightning on the very day the news of Gen. Arnold's death was received at Tar- LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 33 rytown. Singular coincidence this ! It was a white- wood tree, and uncommonly large, being twenty- six feet in circumference and forty-one high. There is a " Dutch Reformed Church" at Tar- rytown, one hundred and sixty-two years old, and a very ancient burying ground, supposed to be older than the church. The pulpit and the communion table are of oak, and were brought from Holland. The bricks were made in Holland. The Rev. Thomas G. Smith, the present pastor of this church, is a Scotchman, but was an American patriot in the revolutionary war. He is a worthy, intelli- gent, and hospitable old gentlemen, of upwards of seventy, and has been the spiritual pastor of the flock for more than thirty years. There are two excellent private boarding schools in this village, one for boys and the other for young ladies. The former is under the superintendence of a Mr. See, and the latter is managed by two Quaker ladies. On Friday, I hired a conveyance to White Plains, seven miles east of Tarrytown. The route is a per- fect zigzag, and I can assure you that we headed every one, at least, of the cardinal points of the compass. And for roughness, the passage of the Green Mountains does not even vie with it. This is all absolute matter of fact, and I am prepared to make affidavit to that effect before any justice of the 34 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. peace in Christendom. About midway, we passed the monument of, Van Wart, of Andre memory. I alighted, and taking out a pencil, took down the sev- eral inscriptions on the four sides. On the North' Here reposes the mortal remains of ISAAC VAN WART, An Elder of the Greenburgh Church, who died on the 23d of May, 1828, in the 69th year of his age. Having lived the life, he died the death of the Christian. , On the South side it is written The Citizens of the County of Westchester Erected this Tomb, in testimony of the high sense they entertained for the Virtuous and Patriotic conduct of their fellow citizen, and as a memo-rial sacred to Public Gratitude. LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 3& On the East side we have Vincit Amor Patriae. Nearly half a century before this monument was built, The Conscript Fathers of America had, in the Senate Chamber, voted that Isaac Van Wart was a faithful Patriot one in whom the love of Country was Invincible, and this Tomb bears testimony that the Record is true. On the West side the inscription reads after this manner "Fidelity. On the 23d of Sept. 1780, Isaac Van Wart, accompanied by John Paulding and Daniel Williams, all Farmers of the county of Westchester, intercepted Major Andre on his re- turn from the American lines in the character of a Spy, and notwithstanding the large bribes offered them for his release, nobly disdained to sacrifice their country for gold, secured and carried him to the commanding officer of the district, whereby the dangerous and traitorous conspiracy of Arnold was brought to light, the insidious designs of the ene- my baffled, the American army saved, and our be- loved country free," &c. Paulding was, unquestionably, the master spirit 36 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. of the trio. He is represented by those who knew him, as a brave man and a good soldier. White Plains is a small village, with about five hundred inhabitants, and is the county town for Westchester. The, Court House and the Jail, of course, have their location here. Thank God, however, the poor debtor is not incarcerated for pov- erty, in the prisons of New York. I blush for the attempt making in my native State to restore that relic of barbarism to the code. Continue in the same fearless way you have commenced, to advo- cate the cause of the poor and the oppressed, in opposition to a few interested enemies of popular rights, and the " inglorious twenty"* will hide their diminished heads, and retire to the obscurity they deserve. I had intended to notice the last named village more fully, but the foregoing digression, fills the second sheet of your New York Traveller. * Mr. Porter, the editor of the American Traveller a paper which he has conducted with ability for the last ten or twelve years, has ever fearlessly advocated the abolishment of im- prisonment for debt. The " inglorious twenty," is a term he applied to twenty Senators, who voted for the perpetuation of this barbarous law. LETTER V. Put up at the Mansion House Troy a prominent point qf interest Visit to Mrs. WillarcCs Female Seminary The Amateur Vocalist Mrs. WillarcFs zeal in the cause qf Education,