TOURISTS & CITIZEN.

E .MAC DOWEL COSGRAVE, M.D.

AND

LEONARD R.STRANGWAYS,M.A

STEAMSHIP TICKETS
TO ANY PORT

BY ANY LINE.

RAILWAY,
COACH AND
STEAMER

TICKETS

Through & from

Ireland /O4

RELAND

ALL PARTS

FOREIGN
BANKING

RAFTS& CIRCULAR NOTES ISSUED

/Chief Office : Ludgate Circus, London

DUBLIN.

THE

GRESHAM 0=0

t^^^^^^ TY /^\ nn if? T

5 One of the Largest and I 1 I |-(

Best Appointed in Ireland, f 1x7 I Vf 1 J

J^- ^ ^ ^, , ^ v ^j -w-^j-' i^J "-(^w VBJ \*4 ^^ ^V ^^^^^ ^V -^Vi r4 -^ii_^^

DINING, READING, SMOKING AND BILLIARD ROOMS

ON GROUND FLOOR.

FIRST-CLASS CUISINE. TABLE D'HOTE EVERY EVENING.

ELECTRIC LIGHT.
MODERATE FIXED TARIFF.

OLDEST HOTEL. BRAY. ESTABLISHED 1791.

* TIJE ROY^L *

CO. WICKLOW. T. CAMPBELL, Proprietor.

CONNEMARA, ACHILL & WEST OF IRELAND.

CIRCULAR TOURS from Dublin, Broadstone Station, to the Tourist, Angling and Shooting
Resorts in the West of Ireland. Reduced Fares for Parties of Two to Four Passengers. Extra
Coupons issued for extended Tours from Dublin, Broadstone Terminus, to the North and
South of Ireland. TOURIST TICKETS from the Principal Towns in England and Scotland for
Connemara, or Combined Tour including Killarney. Issued at the Offices of the Railway
and Steam Packet Companies and Tourist Agencies.

RETURN FARES FROM DUBLIN.

NUMBER OF PASSENGERS.

*. The Tickets are available for ;=: ~

Two months, and are extended ou

payment of a percentage. lit | tod i 3rd
Class ClaMjClaw Class Class Class

I THREE I I

1st I *nd | 3rd 1st |
; Class ! Class!ciass!dass ! (

_ 42 01 30 Ol 89 78 6 58 0:128 61113 6 86 0^164 0146 01113

Connemara and Achill New Tour ..| 53 6| 46 6 33 99 9 86 6 63 4,143 9 125 01 93 9<183 0;160 6 122 i

~B 153 121 192 0:152 Ol

t and the West of Ireland 47 6| 42 0| 30 89

86 6

Connemara and the North of Ireland] 60
Con

Public Cars ran during the Season, passing through Oughterard, Recess (for Glenda-
lough), Clifden, Letterfrack (for Renvyle), and Leenane. Steamers ply on Galway Bay.

The M. G. W. R. Co.'s Oil Illustrated Handbook to the West of
Ireland contains 16 full-paged toned Lithographs and numerous Woodcuts.

Application for Time Tables, Tourist Programmes, and Information as to Fares, Routes,
Hotels, &c.. nay be made to the Company's Agents, Mr. H. G. Callan, 60 Castle Street,
Liverpool, and Mr. 3. F. Ritson, 178 Buchanan Street, Glassow, or to the undersigned.

JOSEPH TATLOW, Manager,
BBOADSTOSE STATIOX, DUBLI.V. Midland Great Western Railway,

ADVERTISEMENTS.

Dnblin, Wicklow and Wexford Railway.

CHEAP TOURS

IN THE COUNTIES OP

WICKL0W

INCLUDING THE

MAGNIFICENT SCENERY

Glendalough

Powerscourt Waterfall,
Devil's Glen, The Darkle,

Vale of Ovoca,

Wooden Bridge,
i^ Etc., etc.

FOR FULL PARTICULARS, SEE THE COMPANY'S ANNOUNCEMENTS.

f ** f 1 ^**! ^a^ *ak. *mf r^= s>

BEAUTIFULLY ILLUSTRATED,

Price 6d.

HARCOURT STREET TERMINUS, DAVID J. STEWART,

DUBLIN, \#h May, 1895. Traffic Manage*

THE DICTIONARY OF DUBLIN

IRISH MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES.

PIM BROTHERS & CO.,

MANUFACTURERS OF

IRISH POPLINS AND LINENS,

Table Linen, Irish Laces, Balbriggan Hosiery.

MEDALS:

Dublin, 1850 New York. 1852 London, 1862 Paris, 1867

London, 1851 Paris, 1855 Dublin. 1865 Vienna, 1878

Dublin, 1872 Oporto, 1866

RETAIL WAREHOUSE:

PIM BROTHERS, Ltd.,

SOUTH GREAT GEORGE'S STREET

P. B. & Co. have been awarded Prize Medals for Excellence of
Manufacture of their Poplins wherever exhibited.

THE

DICTIONARY OF DUBLIN

Being a Comprehensive Guide to the City
and its Neighbourhood

BY
E. MAcDOWEL COSGRAVE, M.D., DUB. UNIV., F.R. C.P.I.

Member of Council, Photographic Society of Ireland
AND

LEONARD R. STRANGWAYS, M.A.

Ex-Sch. and Senior Moderator, Dub. Univ. ; Vice-President,
Photographic Society of Ire/and

ILLUSTRATED BY NUMEROUS PHOTOGRAPHS
TAKEN BY 'THE AUTHORS

DUBLIN: SEALY, BRYERS & WALKER

I A. T. & C. L.)

94, 95 AND 96 MIDDLE ABBEY STREET
LONDON : SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KENT & CO., LTD.

1895

EXAMINATION HALL, TRINITY COLLEGE.

PREFACE.

IHE " DICTIONARY OF DUBLIN " consists of
Two Parts. The first gives the informa-
tion required by all visitors ; the second,
a Dictionary proper, gives fuller particulars
on subjects of special interest ; a system of cross
references, making it easy to consult either section as
desired.

By this means a visitor making a short stay is
not overburdened with details, and yet can at any
moment get the fullest information upon anything
which specially attracts him. To the resident or to
the visitor bent on thoroughly investigating the city
and its environs, it is hoped the book will prove an
ample guide.

In the first edition of a book, containing so much
material in a small space, complete freedom from
fault can hardly be expected. The authors will be
obliged to any reader who points out errors or

VI . ..

omissions in order that such may be corrected in
future editions.

The authors are responsible for the reproductions
from photographs, but not for the woodcuts introduced
by the publishers.

NOTE. In Part I. words in heavy-faced type are
the subject of special articles in Part II.

In Part II. cross references to other articles are
given by printing the subjects of such in capitals.

June, 1895.

PART I.

CHAP.

I. ACCESS TO DUBLIN
II. IN DUBLIN
III. HISTORIC DUBLIN

iv. FIRST DAY'S WALK THRO'

THE CITY

v. SECOND DAY'S WALK THRO'

THE CITY
VI. DUBLIN FROM A TRAMCAR

VII. TRIPS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF DUBLIN
VIII. BOOKS, VIEWS AND MAPS -

PART II.

CHAP.

PAGE

39
55
7*

THE

DICTIONARY OF DUBLIN,

PART I.

Access to Dublin.

,N the so-called good old times, and not so very
/< long ago, the voyage to Ireland was a matter

needing much consideration [Mail Boats*] ;
but the fine boats of the L. & N. W. Railway Co. and of
the City of Dublin Steam Packet Co. have changed all that,
and the actual sea journey occupies now only some three to
four hours. The Z. c^ N. W. R. boats run between Holy-
head and Dublin (North Wall) twice daily in connection
with Express trains to and from London. There is also a
slower service daily, but it is not so popular. The City of
Dublin boats, which carry the Mails, run to Kingstown Pier,

* Heavy type is used to direct the reader's attention to the
longer articles on special subjects in Part II.

from which the pas-
senger takes the boat
train to Westland-row

Station a run of a quarter of an hour. Tickets
issued for the Mail boat are available without extra
charge for the North Wall Steamers, but holders of
tickets for the North Wall route must pay 25. on
the ist Class and 33. on the 2nd Class Tickets for
the privilege of travelling by the Kingstown boats.
This is often a matter of great convenience, as the
hours of starting differ considerably. The traveller
can secure a bed on board, and may occupy his
berth over night for the morning boats. The City
of Dublin Co. runs a tidal service between Dublin
and Liverpool with excellent boats, and the
Dublin and Glasgow Co. and the Laird Line
combine to give a daily service to and from
Greenock and Glasgow. The time occupied in the passage
is roughly 15 hours. Passengers from the Southern parts of
England will find good accommodation and a very enjoyable
trip of 2 1 hours or so by taking the Bristol Steam Navigation
Co. boats, sailing from Bristol on Tuesdays, and from Dublin
on Fridays ; while those who really enjoy the sea can have
an excellent trip from London direct to Dublin by the
British and Irish Steam Packet C0.'s boats which run
twice a week each way, calling at Plymouth, Falmouth,
Southampton and Portsmouth. On the other hand many
: --._ travellers, for whom the

" up and down motion,
which is caused by the
treacherous ocean," has
terrors unspeakable, will
yet find it possible to visit
Ireland with only one
hour's open sea voyage
by choosing the Larne
and Stranraer Route.
The steamers of all these
Companies are excellently fitted ; but, as is only natural,
the finest boats are those which run on the Express and
Mail Services between Dublin and Holyhead.

A table of fares by each of the above-mentioned
routes will be found among the advertisements.
Whichever method the visitor may adopt of
reaching our city, he should on no account
miss the view of the noble Bay of Dublin as
the vessel approaches its destination. To
one whose first view of Dublin Bay is in the
early morn of a bright summer day, the sight will be long a
cherished memory. On the right is the bold Hill of Howth
with the Bailey Lighthouse crowning a precipitous crag.
Beyond it lies the little island of Ireland's Eye, and in the
background Lambay. On the left rises Bray Head, an
abrupt promontory. Further away rise the famed Dublin
hills, and in the background the violet hills of far-famed
Wicklow. Soon Dalkey and Killiney are passed on our left,
and almost at once Kingstown Harbour is reached. If we
are not to land there we shall have more time to admire the
beautiful panorama spread before us, as our steamer slowly
cleaves its way up the Liffey. So glorious
is the picture, so exquisite the tints of
the distant hills and valleys that the
visitor will not wonder at the fond-
ness and pride with which all
Irishmen regard what one of
our poets calls a "match-
less wonder of a bay."
On reaching the quays,
the stranger will at once
be struck with the un-
usual accent of the
natives; but the dan-
gers, so merrily de-
scribed in many authors,
of being torn to pieces
by rival jarveys are a
thing of the past. The
Irish car is a marvel to
the stranger who feels a distinct element of adventure in the
drive on such a vehicle with a jarvey whose object appears
to be to run as close as he possibly can to everything
without absolutely running into it. The cars are, howeve^

quite safe, and the carmen often most amusing guides as
well as most accomplished whips. We leave our visitor
with every confidence that he will safely reach his hotel.

CHAPTER II.
In Dublin.

EFORE reaching Dublin it is well to arrange
where to stay, especially in times of local ex-
citement, such as " Horse Show Week," when
accommodation is very hard to get.

Lodgings in Dublin are sometimes clean and comfort-
able, but this is not the rule, and hotels will be found more
comfortable in every way. There are a few first-class hotels
in Dublin, and many reasonably good ones. A great num-
ber of combined hotel and boarding establishments have
lately sprung up, in which economical and fairly comfortable
quarters can be obtained.

Particulars of the chief hotels will be found in our advertise-
ment columns.

Some few years ago the visitor who did not take his meals
in his hotel fared badly, as Dublin was poorly supplied with
restaurants ; having visited Mitchell's for lunch, the joys of
Dublin were exhausted. Of late years there has been a great
improvement in this respect, and Dublin is
now well supplied with first-class restau-
rants.

Some of the hotels have lately opened
their table d'hote dinners to non-residents.

The pedestrian or cyclist who seeks re-
freshment in the surrounding country will
fare badly, as the neighbouring villages
afford little prospect of entertainment, and
unless the tourist hits upon some large
place, such as Bray, Kingstown, or Howth,
he will find it better to remain hungry.
The clean cottages which abound in Wales,

where tea can be obtained at a moderate cost, are almost
unknown about Dublin. Some notable exceptions, such as

that at the gate of the
Dargle, show how highly
such accommodation is
valued.

In other Chapters di-
rections are given for sys-
tematic walks through
Dublin, and in the Dic-
tionary the various
sights, c.,are described
in detail. It is only
necessary here to give a
brief sketch of what the
visitor to Dublin can do.

It is very easy to get about Dublin ; outside cars abound
[Pares], and trams run frequently in all directions. An
outside car is the best vehicle to use. It is light, quick,
and cheap, and holds four easily, and another " on the
well " at' a pinch. The driver is generally well stocked
with miscellaneous information, and humour is not absent.
The novice is advised to hold on when going round
corners.

Tramcars run through the principal streets and along the
quays ; from the top good views can be obtained. Trams
also run out into the suburbs ; a description of the routes is
given in Chapter VI.

Whilst Dublin is full of interest to those who care to
study it, it is comparatively easily exhausted by the super-
ficial visitor. The most important parts lie in an elongated
block, crossing the river at O'Connell Bridge. This is
bounded by S. Stephen' s-green at the south, and the
Rotunda (at the head of Sackville-street) at the north ;
Dame-street forms a detour to the west. In this district
will be found the best streets for shopping, and consequently
the best streets for seeing people; the finest commercial
buildings and some of the finest public buildings, such as
the Museums, Trinity College, Bank of Ireland, Royal
Exchange, Christ Church Cathedral, Custom House, Pro-
Cathedral, Post Office, and the Rotunda. S. Patrick's

Cathedral and the Four Courts lie outside this district to
the west.

S. Stephen's-green is a noble city park, and its frequent
seats afford a pleasant resting-place to the tired sight-seer.
One of the finest views in Dublin is that from the bridge
which crosses the lake. To the north the wide expanse of
water leads the eye to the island and to the mimic cataract
falling over jagged rocks ; above rises the classic fagade of
the College of Surgeons. To the right is seen Grafton-street

TOP Of UUAFTON STREET.

and a noble row of Clubs, with a distant view of the cam-
panile and other buildings of T. C. D. ; to the left the statue
of George II., the fountains, and, in the distance, the granite
front of the Catholic University, and the campanile of the
Royal University. Behind the second lake are the Shel-
bourne Hotel, many fine houses, and a number of fine
trees.

Grafton-street is the great shopping street of Dublin

41,

College-green is the centre for banks and insurance com-
panies, and it and Sackville-street contain the finest statues,
and are the starting points of the tram system.

College-green is an imposing space, triangular in shape,
the apex passing into Dame-street. The base is the fine
front of Trinity College. At one side is the Bank of Ireland
(formerly the Parliament House), at the other a row of fine
banks and commercial buildings. In the centre space are
statues of Burke, Goldsmith, Grattan, and William III.
Here is the terminus of those tram lines which run west.
Grafton-street, Dame-street, and Westmoreland-street, the
three chief thoroughfares opening out of College-green, are
all full of handsome buildings.

Westmoreland-street leads to O'Connell Bridge, from
which another fine view of the city can be obtained.

Looking back up Westmoreland-street, Trinity College and

the noble portico of the
old House of Lords are
seen ; the latter stands
boldly out to the street.
More to the left is
D'Olier-street ending in
other buildings of
Trinity College. Look-
ing in the opposite
direction the fine pro-
portions of Sackville-
street are appreciated.
In the immediate fore-
ground is the splendid
memorial to O'Connell,
further on the Gray
Statue, Nelson's Pillar,

and the portico of the Post Office. In the distance is the
Rotunda, and the spire of S. George's Church. Up and
down the river fine views are obtained, the Custom House
(spoiled to some extent by the Loop Line) standing out
clear and white when the wind is from the east ; the
upper quays and Phoenix Park, showing best as the sun
sinks to the west.

But if the city is soon exhausted its suburbs are inexhaust-

ible, and whether sea, mountain or rich pasture of emerald
hue delights the eye, the treat can be had in abundance.

The Phoenix Park is within reach of the tram lines, but
can be better explored on an outside car, as can the Straw-
berry Beds and many pretty bits at the north side. For more
distant excursions the railways must be used.

The railway stations of Dublin are :

Westland-row and Harcourt-street , the termini of the
Dublin, Wicklow, and Wexford Railway. The former line
goes to Kingstown, and will be passed over by the traveller

CUSTOM HOUSE, FROM O'CONNELL BRIDGE.

arriving by the Holyhead mail. Both lines join at Bray ; so
either can be used when starting to explore the County
Wicklow.

Kingsbridge, the terminus of the Great Southern and West-
ern Railway, leading to Cork, Killarney, &c.

Broadstone, the terminus of the Midland Great Western
Railway, leading to Galway, Sligo, &c.

Amiens- street, the terminus of the Great Northern Rail-
way, leading to Belfast and the North. This is joined to
Westland-row by the Loop Line.

There are also stations on the North Wall
used in connection with the Cross-Channel
steamboats.

To Howth, at the north, and to Kingstown
and Bray, at the south, trains are frequent and
cheap. In the evenings the fares are still further reduced.

Most of the County Wicklow is within
reach of a day's excursion, but the more
distant parts can be better seen by stay-
ing for two or three days. Suggested
excursions are given in Chapter VII., and
the places are described in detail in
Part II. THE DICTIONARY.

Sundays in Dublin are fairly cheerful.
The musical services in S. Patrick's and
Christ Church Cathedrals are beautifully
rendered ; the afternoon services are
usually crowded. The services in the
Castle Chapel and Trinity College are
also attractive, but orders have to be
obtained. The only church services that
can be at all classed as " High" are those
in S. Bartholomew's and All Saints',
Grangegorman.

High Mass in the Pro-Cathedral, S.
Francis Xavier, and S. Andrew's draws
large and fashionable congregations ; but,
indeed, at most Catholic churches the at-
tendance is large, and numbers may often
be seen standing with uncovered heads
outside the doors.

On Sunday mornings the funerals en-
liven the streets leading towards Prospect
Cemetery. Forty, fifty, or more outside
cars with from four to six or seven passen-
gers on each often follow a single hearse,
and as time goes on, so great is the
anxiety to arrive before the gates are shut,
that sometimes three funerals will race up
Sackville-street abreast, each trying to be
first to make the narrow of Cavendish-row.

On Sunday afternoons Dublin empties ; some go to the
Phoenix Park, where the grass of the People's Gardens is
thickly dotted with family groups ; strolling couples may be
met further afield. The tram lines also carry crowds to
Clontarf, Sandymount and the base of the Dublin moun-
tains, and the railways leave thousands at Howth, Kings-
town, and Bray.

Week-day evening amusements in Dublin are not nume-
rous. There is only one first-class theatre and one second-
rate theatre. The latter is not always open. There is also
one good Music Hall. The Leinster Hall accommodates
large audiences for concerts, and the Rotunda Rooms and
Antient Concert Rooms have smaller concerts, conjurers,
&c., &c. In Summer Hengler's Circus is open in the
Rotunda Gardens, and is a pleasant and favourite resort.
The Shows organized by the Royal Dublin Society are
always largely attended.

The Museum all the year round and the Royal Hibernian
Academy in Spring exhaust the public amusements, unless
frequent Bazaars can be placed under this heading.

CHAPTER III.

present the reader with a full
history of the ancient city of
Dublin is beyond the scope of
the present work ; but a brief
sketch of the steps by which
Dublin became the second
city of the Empire will pro-
bably be agreeable to "the stranger within our gates,"
who would lose much of the interest which his visit
should afford him if he were left in ignorance of our
past history. The earliest inhabitants and the first
adventurers who entered the bay can no longer be de-
termined, but the original foundation of the city is
believed to have been as early as 2000 B.C., and our ances-
tors, whether of Spanish or Scythian origin, as is sometimes
suggested, have left to us, in relics of their skill in gold,
silver, and bronze, such exquisite works of art as prove that
Ireland can fairly claim in the world's early history a posi-
tion far superior to that of the surrounding nations. The
name of Dublin has been variously derived from Dun
Eblana, " the fort of the cowslip," and from Duibhlinn,
" the black pool." It is a remarkable fact that speakers of
Irish in all remote parts of the country call the city even
now Ath-cliath, with the prefix Bally, the whole being pro-
nounced Blaa-clee " the town of the hurdle-ford." In the

early Christian era the history of the city presents few
features of interest beyond its occupation by the Galls or
foreigners. These constant invasions, however, inculcated
a military training and a fondness for fighting which is still
a characteristic of the inhabitants. In the fifth century St.
Patrick of Armagh visited Dublin, which adopted Chris-
tianity. The ninth century is noteworthy for repeated in-
vasions by the Danes, possibly a different race from the
former foreigners. These Danes varied the monotony of
being defeated by the native Irish by inflicting serious re-
verses upon the English, thus showing plainly how impor-
tant a part Ireland, and Dublin in particular, was destined
to play for weal or woe in the fortunes of the sister kingdom.
The following century is occupied by the burnings and re-
buildings of the city by one or other of the contending
parties ; and in 1014 the famous Brian Boroihme [Bora]
utterly routed and almost annihilated the Danes in the
glorious battle of Clontarf, in which, however, king Brian
was himself slain. Shortly afterwards Malachi burned and
razed the city of Dublin to the ground. This eleventh cen-
tury saw the building of CHRIST CHURCH and S. MICHAN'S
CHURCH, which still remain. The power of the Danes was
by this time thoroughly broken, and after repeated defeats
during the first half of the twelfth century, they had so far
forgotten their pristine valour that they became an easy prey
to Strongbow, who in 1170 occupied the city. This inva-
sion of Ireland by Englishmen under Strongbow was brought
about by the expulsion of Dermod McMurrough, king of
Leinster, at the hands of Roderick O'Connor, king of
Ireland. McMurrough had run away with the wife of
O'Rorke, Prince of Breffni. O'Connor espoused the cause
of O'Rorke and advanced with him against McMurrough,
who finding resistance impossible fled to Henry
II. of England and tendered his alle-
giance. The English monarch having
obtained from Pope Adrian a Bull

making over to him the lord-
ship of Ireland, granted permission to
McMurrough to enlist volunteers who
would right under the English flag for
the recovery of his lost sovereignty. The
most important of these adventurers was
Strongbow, who after considerable success
in the south of Ireland advanced upon
Dublin, and after a brief siege occupied
the city. He married Eva, daughter of McMurrough.
Strongbow was himself closely blockaded by Roderick
O'Connor, and was on the point of evacuating Ireland with
all his English followers, when Roderick, owing to some
treachery on the part of his followers, was compelled to raise
the siege and leave Dublin in the hands of the Saxons.
Henry II. visited the city in 1172, and received the homage
of the chieftains. In the following year he granted the city
to the citizens of Bristol to colonize, confirming to them by
charter all privileges which they possessed at Bristol.
This charter is still to be seen in the CORPORATION
RECORDS. Strongbow died in 1175, and in 1209, on Easter
Monday, the new colonists who had gone out to make holi-
day, at Cullenswood, were attacked and slain to the number
of 500, the spot being to this day called the "Bloody Field,"
and the day " Black Monday." King
John, in 1210, established law courts,
and erected a mint, and in the same year
Henry III., on his accession, granted
" Magna Charta " to Dublin, and later on
gave to the citizens the fee-farm of the
city at a rental of 200 marks. In 1282,
the greater part of the city near the
Castle, including S. Werburgh's and a large portion of Christ
Church was burned down. The pious citizens began to
rebuild these sacred edifices, even before their own houses.
In this century, also, the Castle was built, and the first
bridge thrown over the Liffey. In 1315, 6,000 Scots, under
Edward Bruce, were invited by the native Irish to assist
them against the English garrison, and landed in Ulster ;
but the men of Dublin showed so firm a front, that Bruce,
who had reached Castleknock, withdrew without attacking

the city. A terrible famine in 1331, followed in 1348 by a
sickness resembling cholera, reduced the city to dire straits.
In 1486, Lambert Simnel was crowned in Christ Church ;
but the annals of the city exhibit little save the usual attacks
by the Irish on the English colony and the reprisals which
followed. Repeatedly the power of the Church was called
upon to aid the English, on the plea that Adrian, Pope of

SPEED'S MAP OF DUBLIN, 1610.

Rome, had, in 1172, alienated his Lordship of Ireland to
Henry II. for a certain rent.

The sixteenth century exhibits a monotonous st" ies of
risings, including the famous rebellion in 1534 of 'Silken
Thomas," son of the Earl of Kildare. In 1541, the title
King of Ireland was assumed by Henry VIII. by Ad of the
Irish Parliament. Of Tyrconnell, Tyrone and a host of
others, who made matters lively for the English during the

second part of this century, we lack space to speak ; but in
matters more particularly concerning the city itself we must
mention the introduction of printing in 1550, the opening
of Trinity College to students in 1593, and the introduction
of the potato in 1578. After
Lord Mountjoy's fiendish " final
Conquest of Ireland " in 1600,
Dublin was visited by the plague
in 1604, and again in 1606 and
1607. Speed's well-known map,
dated 1610, is of interest, and is here
exhibited. The circuit of the city
walls was then one mile. The ex-
actions and confiscations of Strafford, 1633,
were carried out with the deliberate intention
of extinguishing every Irish trade and manufactures
notably the woollen trade, which then flou-
rished, so that Ireland might be dependent
upon England. The insurrection of the Irish
Septs in 1641 was crushed with cold-blooded
ferocity, and was followed by unparalleled
barbarities in the city itself. In 1649, Lord
Ormond was defeated in the great battle of
Bagotsrath, by the citizens of Dublin, and
within a few days Cromwell landed. In nine
months, Cromwell overran almost all Ireland,
whose ruined keeps and dismantled castles
still attest the horrors of the times. Indeed
" The curse of Cromwell on you " is even yet
used throughout the country as an impreca-
tion. The world-famous Dean Swift was born
in 1667. In 1689, James II. arrived and
issued his brass money, to the nominal value of
one-and-a-half million pounds. This money
which was by proclamation made to pass as
silver coinage, was coined out of old brass and
gun metal ! The circulation, however, ceased
after the battle of the Boyne, when William
III., on July 5, 1690, entered Dublin. A
Penal Code was now in-
stituted in retaliation for *-

the cruelties perpetrated by the Jacobites on Protestants ;
and it is in this period, chiefly, that the strong religious
antipathies, which even yet distract Ire-
land, had their origin. It is certainly
true that many of the English colonists
became Hiberniores ipsis Hibemicis ;
but it cannot be denied that the
plunderings, extortions, and the mur-
dering of the old natives were due
solely to a land hunger, and have ac-
quired a religious colour, as it were
accidentally, owing to the hypocritical cloak which some of
the rulers, professedly Protestants, threw over their greed.

The eighteenth century brought with it at least freedom
from constant invasion, and the citizens had leisure to
devote to the adornment of their city. The Royal Barracks
(1704), the old Custom House (1707), the Parliament House
(finished 1739), the Rotunda Lying-in Hospital (1751), the
Royal Exchange (1769), the Blue Coat Hospital (1773),
King's Inns (1776), present Custom House (1781), Four
Courts (1786), together with many fine mansions, countless
places of worship, and very many of our leading benevolent
institutions were erected during this century, while the city
advanced with amazing rapidity in every respect. The
streets were widened, public lighting undertaken, the river
embanked, banks established, and a General Post Office
instituted. Many societies, both scientific and literary, were
started, and the arts flourished. Then, too, means of inter-
communication with the centre of the country were estab-
lished by the fine canals an enterprise comparable with the
modern magnificent railway lines. This was, indeed, the
Golden Age of Dublin, which then possessed a resident
nobility and a gentry warmly attached to their native land.
The restrictions which hampered trade were removed, and
an energetic body of traders, animated by a spirit of com-
mercial enterprise, arose.

The population, which in 1644 is stated to have been
8, 159, had risen in 177710 137,208, and in 180310169,528!
The insurrection of May, 1798, led immediately to the Union
with England (1801), and
although it cannot but be a

source of deep regret that the mansions of our nobles are no
longer occupied by their lordly owners, and that London has
drawn to herself much of the best and brightest of our genius,

for which a mock Court is poor consolation, still Dublin in
spite of many difficulties has progressed within the present
century in a remarkable degree. Her streets no longer

1!)

exhibit that squalor .which earned for her the soubriquet
" dirty Dublin." Even a Thackeray could find small mark
for his satire in the fine thoroughfares which now adorn our
city. We have still, alas ! the black mud, from
which no amount of Paving and Cleansing
Committees can protect us in rainy weather ;
but if we have our full share of rain we have
our recompense in a fine water supply, and
if we have no manufactories to boast of we
can content ourselves with the enjoy-
ment of an air which is not smoke-
laden, and a sky which is not always blurred with
smuts. On the whole, given fair weather, no place
can look brighter, livelier, or more lovely than
the much-maligned City of Dublin, and its sample
squares, noble public buildings, not to mention the sur-
passing loveliness of its environs, fully entitle it to rank as
the second city of the Empire.

CHAPTER IV.
First Day's Walk Through the City,

[MAPS A. AND B.]

HE Bank of Ireland and the
University are such conspi-
cuous objects in themselves,
and are withal so interesting
to the visitor, as well as so
central in situation, that they
have been adopted as our
starting point for each day's
walk. On the strangers first
morning in Dublin he can do
no better than direct his steps
to " Old Trinity." Passing
under the Archway he will
see, in the octagon-shaped
vestibule, the notice boards, on
which are posted the examination
returns ; and, if it be Term time, they
will probably be surrounded by an eager
throng of students in cap and gown, discussing the
results, or awaiting fresh intelligence. The large quadrangle
which is first entered, is 560 feet in length by 270 in breadth,
and gives an immediate idea of that spaciousness which is,
indeed, the main characteristic of the University buildings.
In this vast square are the Chapel and the Examination Hall
to the left and right hand respectively, while just beyond the
Chapel stands the Dining Hall, with its great kitchens.
From the pulpit in the Dining Hall the scholars of the house,
of whom there are 70, pronounce in their turns the old graces

Before and after Commons. The portico of the chapel, with
four Roman Corinthian columns, is exactly similar to that of
the Examination Hall, and both are from the
design of Sir W. Chambers. After visiting these
buildings the Library will attract attention. The
present Library
was first opened

OLD BUILDINGS (BEFORE ALTERATIONS) AND LIBRARY, T.C-D.

a .fg|Hil* 6 i!

"5 rt t, 5 ^-n ~ ^2 T3 ^ & <y

pavilion is occupied by the Fagel Library, removed from
Holland to London during the French invasion of 1784, and
purchased by Dublin University for ^"8,000. Immediately
above it are the Manuscript rooms, in which are stored
many priceless MSS. relating to Irish history, &c. This
room, by regulation of the Statutes, can be visited only in
company of the Librarian himself. Some few of the marble

SOUTH SIDE OP PARLIAMENT SQUARE.

busts which stand in the large room are of interest, as are
many of the old Irish MSS. described elsewhere. From the
Library the visitor will pass to the famous New Buildings,
which form the southern side of the New Square. The
Venetian style of ornamentation used here contrasts curi-
ously with the classic style of all the other College buildings;
and there is not in Dublin any more beautiful interior

THE LIBRARY, T.C.D.

than the entrance hall of
this noble structure. The
other houses of this
square, and all of those
in the square called
" Botany Bay," contain
only students' quarters or
the private rooms of the
Fellows. For the present
we shall not go out into
the College Park, since at
such an early hour there
is not much to be seen
there ; but leaving the
University again by the
front gate we cross to the
famous Bank of Ire-
land, once the Houses
of Parliament. In it there
is now little to attract the
visitor, excepting always
the House of Lords,
which remains to this day
in much the same con-
dition as before the
Union. The House of
Commons was burned
down in 1792 and again
in 1804, and the present
cash office is erected on
its site. The statue of
King William III. and
Foley's statues of Gold-
smith, Burke and Grattan
are worthy of inspection
before we leave College-
green. The front of
the University itself can
be excellently seen from
this point. Its length is
308 feet. The building

is of the Corinthian order, and at each end are pavilions
adorned with coupled pilasters supporting an attic storey.

Continuing our way up Dame-street we pass on the right
the Dublin Commercial Buildings, with fine reading-
rooms. In the basement of the same building is an

excellent luncheon-bar (he Bodega. A little further
on the left is George's-street, up which we may walk for
a hundred yards or so to visit the South City Markets,
which cover an area of almost two acres. This fine build-
ing, in Scotch baronial style, was burned to the ground in
1891. Almost opposite to it, but rather higher up, stands
the house in which was opened the first Lying-in Hospital
ever started in Great Britain. It was opened in 1745 by
the noble Dr. Mosse, whose exertions on behalf of the
suffering poor secured to Dublin its famed Rotunda
Hospital. Returning again to Dame-street we come next
to the City Hall, which is worth a visit, particularly if
the City Fathers happen to be in session. The City Hall
has a fine front of the Corinthian order, and faces Parliament-
street, noted in former days for its great book shops and its
journalists. Here are at present the offices of the Daily
Express (rebuilt, 1893) and of the Warder and Mail. From
this point we catch our first glimpse of Christ Church
Cathedral. Before 1886, when Lord Edward-street
was opened, there was a row of houses across the end of
Dame-street, obstructing both the view and the traffic. The
opening of this new street was certainly one among the most
important improvements of the city within recent years.
Turning to the left, past the west front of the City Hall,
we reach the Castle, the town residence of the Lord
Lieutenant. Here are the offices of the administration of
Government and of the Metropolitan Police. The building
of the Castle was begun by King John in 1205, and the
latest addition, the Chapel, was completed in 1814. The
Upper Castle Yard, which we have entered, con-
tains the state rooms of the Viceroy, S. Patrick's
Hall and the apartments of the officers of the
household and of the Secretaries of State. The
buildings are very plain externally, and the whole
effect disappointing, but the interior of the noble
S. Patrick's Hall on the occasion of some great
function cf State is very magnificent. We now
pass into the Lower Castle Yard, in which atten-
tion is attracted by the
Chapel, an ornate Gothic
building with a fine interior.

The quaint heads carved on the exterior are deserving of at-
tention. Here also is the heavy Birmingham Tower, usually
called the Record Tower, as the Irish records have been
kept there since 1.579. In this courtyard a plain line of
buildings to the north contains the offices otheTreasury,c.,
while beyond the Chapel are the offices of the Dublin
Metropolitan Police. To the south is a barrack of the
police, and near it a small lawn or " garden," from which
can be obtained a view of the entire buildings, world-famed

CASTLE CHAPEL AND HECORD TOWER.

as Dublin Castle. A military band performs every morning
while the guard is being changed in the Upper Yard, and
especially on S. Patrick s Day a crowd gathers to enjoy the
scene. Returning once again to the Upper Yard we pass
out by the gate into Castle-street, and a few yards further
reach the Castle Steps, off which, at No. 9 Hoey's-court,
in the year 1667 was born the famous Jonathan Swift, Dean
of S. Patrick's Cathedral. Continuing up Castle-street we
come upon Christ Church Cathedral, which, however, we

S. PATRICK AND S. NICHOLAS STREETS.

shall reserve for our second day's walk. Turning to the left
into Werburgh-street we reach S. Werburgh's Church,
one of the most interesting of our old city churches. The
spire of this church is a conspicuous object in all the old
maps of Dublin ; it was taken down early in the present
century as dangerous. Under the chancel are interred the
remains of the ill-fated Lord Edward Fitzgerald.

Returning to Christ Church-place, and turning to the
left in front of the Synod Hall, we find ourselves in Nicholas-
street one of the remnants of old Dublin. The stranger
who is interested in the study of people rather than of places,
should visit Nicholas-street on Saturday morning, when the
whole pavement is littered with the various articles exposed
for sale. There is not in all Dublin a more interesting spot
to be seen, and the pity of it is that sanitary requirements
are abolishing, bit by bit, every vestige of the Dublin of
which this is now one of the sole relics. There can be no
doubt that the street is dirty and its odours not " of
Araby ; " yet it is at least picturesque, and we will the more
appreciate its old-time semi-continental effect, by turning to
the rigrit from Patrick-street (the continuation of Nicholas-
street) to glance at the red-brick cottages which are rapidly
replacing all the quaint old tumble-down streets. At the
end of Patrick-street stands the National Cathedral of
S. Patrick. Built in 1190 on the spot where, according
to tradition, S. Patrick baptized his converts in the fifth
century, this ancient edifice has passed through many
vicissitudes. By turns, a law court, a "grammar scole with
lodgings for the scole master," a barrack for Cromwell's
Ironsides injured by fires and by the waters of the River
Poddle, S. Patrick's still remains a stately and venerable
pile. In modern times a most complete renovation of the
building was successfully carried out in 1864-5, at tne so ' e
cost of Sir B. Guinness, whose statue, in a sitting posture,
may be seen outside the building near the West Porch.
This statue, by Foley, was erected " by his fellow country-
men in grateful remembrance of the Restorer of the
Cathedral." There is so much of interest in connection
with this building that the stranger is most strongly advised
to read the longer article, which deals more adequately with
the subject. We can here direct special attention to a very

few out of many memorials. The greatest interest will
naturally centre round all that concerns the famous wit and

s. PATRICK'S CATHEDRAL.

patriot, Dean Swift, so popular and so beloved by all classes
of the people. The fine bust above the doo: of the robing-

room is considered a good likeness, and beside it is the
tablet to the Dean, together with one to the ill-fated Stella,

whom Swift described as "the truest, most virtuous, and
valuable friend that I, or perhaps any other person, was

ever blessed with." Casts of the skulls
of Swift and Stella may be seen in the
robing-room. To Swift is due in large
measure the preservation of many of
the other monuments which adorn the
Cathedral. Among them may be men-
tioned that of Schomberg, and the fine
old tombs of Archbishops Gregory and
Jones and the Boyle monument ; while
among modern memorials none surpass in
interest the tomb of the great Archbishop
Whately, and the striking statue erected to
Captain Boyd, both executed by Farrell.
The old door of the Chapter House and
the curiously carved chest in the North Aisle
will also attract attention. Swift's pulpit and two effigies,
said to represent S. Patrick and Archbishop Fulk de Saund-
ford, can be seen in the baptistery.

On leaving the Cathedral, the tourist will do well to visit
Marsh's Library, where many rare MSS. are stored.
Here may be seen Dean Swift's handwriting, and that also of
Archbishop Laud, and there is in Dublin no place in which
the old-world savour is more pleasantly kept alive. Strangely
enough, few of our Dublin folk seem aware of the exis-
tence of this public library founded for their use. The
Police Barrack beside the Library occupies the site
of the Archiepiscopal Palace of S. Sepulchre and from its
yard there is an excellent view of the exterior of St.
Patrick's Cathed al. The Deanery, from which appeared
many of Dean Swift's famous writings, was burned down in
1781. The present Deanery is a very gloomy building,
but contains some very fine portraits, including a famous
painting by Bindon of Dean Swift. As we pass through Kevin-
street, Bishop-street, and York-street into Stephen's-green,
we may, with but short detours, visit two of Dublin's noblest
institutions, the Meath Hospital, in Heytesbury-street,
and the Adelaide Hospital, in Peter-street. York-
street, a fine but rather decayed thoroughfare, contains
little of interest, except the College of Surgeons,
with its superb front facing Stephen's-green. Entering
the Green itself we pause to admire Farrell's statue of Lord

Ardilaun, to whose munificence Dublin owes so very ex-
cellent an example of landscape gardening. Keeping to
the right we leave the Green by the south side to visit the
Catholic University, easily recognised by the re-
cumbent lion over the door. Some little distance to the
right is the Wesleyan Chapel, and behind it the beautiful

WATERFALL IN 8. STEPHENS GREEN.

buildings of the Wesley College. At the south-east corner
of Stephen's-green is Earlsfort-terrace, which like Stephen's-
green itself is the home of Education in Dublin. In it
are The Royal University, occupying the buildings of
the old Exhibition Palace, and the Alexandra School
and College the "Girton" of Ireland. The new build-
ings of Alexandra School, from designs of Sir Thomas Drew,

are worthy of inspection. On the east side of Stephen's-
green stands the noble S. Vincent de Paul Hospital,
and within a few doors the College of Science. The
latter ought to be visited as it contains a very excellent
museum of peculiar importance to all who are interested in
Irish industries. Here, too, may be seen exquisite enamels
of every type, and a fine collection of china. Strolling
through the Green again towards the north side, we take
the opportunity of inspecting more closely the beauties of
the public park itself. This is the most extensive and most
picturesque of the squares of Dublin, and will contrast very
favourably with similar squares in any city in the empire.
The circumference is almost one English mile. It is a real
delight to see how the children from the surrounding back
streets enjoy the playgrounds, which Lord Ardilaun's
generosity has placed within their
reach. Here, amid lakes, islets,
and cascades, they can drink in the .
air of heaven and feel thankful that - ~ ~ -
the square is no longer closed to
them, as in Thackeray's famous de-
scription, when the entree was con-
fined to those who paid their guinea
a year, and "there were not more
than two nursery-maids to keep
company with the statue of George
II." The noble donor spent
,15,000 on the opening of S.
Stephen's-green, and never was
money more usefully expended.
The Dublin Metropolitan Police have erected a bandstand
as a Jubilee offering to Queen Victoria, and here on
Saturday evenings during the warm season their fine band
attracts a very large assembly of Dublin artisans and
others. From the Green, after duly admiring the rockeries,
waterfalls, and the many species of water-fowl which en-
liven the lake, we pass out into Dawson-street, glancing at
the statue of Lord Eglinton, erected after the very successful
Horse and Cattle Show of 1867. The Mansion House
stands on the right side of Dawson-street as we stroll down
this fine street It is a spacious if not very pretentious

JJ6

residence for the Lord Mayor. There are some fine por-
traits in the building, and many magnificent apartments,
notably the Round Room, erected in 1821 for the reception
of King George IV. In the gardens stands an equestrian
statue of George I., which originally stood on Essex-bridge.
The inscription is of more than passing interest. A few paces
further down Dawson street is the house of the Royal Irish
Academy, which is shorn of its interest to the visitor since
the removal of its fine Celtic Museum, in 1891, to the care of
the Science and Art Department. Passing S. Ann's
Church with its handsome new fagade we turn into
Molesworth-street on the right, and at once see the magnifi-
cent buildings of the National Library and Museum
with Leinster House in the background. As these are
among the noblest of our public buildings the stranger will
act wisely in devoting considerable time to an inspection of
their contents. Molesworth-street, through which we are
walking, was in former days the home of many of our
resident nobles, but it is remarkable now only for the Free-
mason's Hall, a fine building, and for two smaller Concert
or Lecture Halls, the Molesworth Hall, and the Leinster
Lecture Hall. The visitor cannot but be impressed with the
magnificence of the noble pile of building in which the
National Library and the Museum of the Science and Art
Department are housed. So full a description of their many
curiosities is given elsewhere that it is unnecessary here to
enter into details. It will be found convenient to visit the
Library first, and then, after a glance at the magnificent
Reading Rooms of the Royal Dublin Society in Leinster
House, to pass across the Quadrangle into the Museum.
Here, although the exhibits are unusually well labelled, a
special guide is almost necessary if one intends to study any-
particular department. Having exhausted the sights which
the Museum affords, the stranger may pass out through the
Natural History Department into Leinster Lawn, in which
will be seen a statue to the Prince Consort. On the further
side of Leinster Lawn is the National Gallery, a re-
naissance building of similar design to that just quitted.
Here are some fine examples chiefly of the Dutch school,
and an interesting series of historical portraits. On leaving
this great group of public buildings we find ourselves in.

Merrion-square from which we may pass by Clare-
street back into the College Park, which we now enter by

NATIONAL GALLERY STAIRCASE.

the Leinster Gate. The buildings at this end of the Park are
chiefly those connected with the famous University Medical

School. The Museum is very well worth a visit. Beyond
these buildings are the Gymnasium and Tennis Courts,
while at the east end of the level sward stands the Pavilion.
Here we shall probably find that we have done enough
sight-seeing for one day, and we may restfully spend the
remainder of the afternoon in watching whatever match
happens to be in progress in the Park.

CRICKET IX THE PARK.

FRIEZE, ROUND BOOM, ROTUNDA.

CHAPTER V.
Second Day's Walk Through the City.

[CHIEFLY ON MAP C.]

; GAIN starting from the front of Trinity College
we shall describe a walk which takes in most of
the objects of interest at the north side of the
city, and Christ Church Cathedral at the south
side.

From Trinity College, Westmoreland street
leads directly to O'Connell-bridge, and so on to
the north side of the river. It is a handsome street,
containing fine business buildings, and the projecting
portico of the old House of Lords (Bank) ; it was made
by the Wide Street Commissioners at the end of
the 1 8th century on the site of narrow lanes the scene of
many a robbery which led down to the ferry plying across
the river before the bridge was built. The curious may be
interested in learning that Westmoreland-street is the same
length and breadth as the Ark, but this was an undesigned
coincidence !

We, however, will not choose the direct route, but turn to
the right, down College-street, keeping the College railings
on our right.

Entering College-street we pass the unhappy statue of
Tom Moore (the effigy is better known as Black-a-Moore) ;
this work of art was from the first an object of ridicule,
the short, stumpy figure of the original being caricatured
by the statue. Several attempts have been made to im-
prove it j a somewhat lighter pedestal was built, and the
head was sawn off, and three extra inches of neck added !
On the left-hand side of the street is the handsome Pro-

COLLEQE GREEN.

vincial Bank, the interior of which is well worth visit-
ing; and at the open space, where College-street,
D'Olier-street (leading to O'Connell-bridge) Great Bruns-
wick-street (leading to Westland-row and containing
the Queen's Theatre), Townsend-street (containing the
Coffee Palace), and Hawkins'-street (containing the
Leinster Hall) meet, stands J. Kirk's Monument erected in
1862 to Sir Philip Crampton. It consists of a drinking
fountain with three basins, from which rises a tall spike of

water lilies and other aquatic plants cast in bronze ; in the
middle a bust of Sir Philip nestles. This monument is

THE CUSTOM HOUSE.

locally known as the " water babe," but has been called the
" cabbage. '

Going down Hawkin's-
"*" street we pass the Lein-
ster Hall on the right. This handsome
hall is built on the site of the old Theatre
Royal ; it is used for the greater musical
events, and the smaller bazaars. At the
end of the street, Burgh -quay is reached ;
going to the right for a couple of hundred
yards past the Corn Exchange and
Conciliation Hall, Butt Bridge (a
swivel bridge, built in 1878, and called
after the Home Rule leader), enables us to
cross the river, and passing under the un-
sightly "Loop Line" to reach the Custom
House.

The Custom House is a magnificent
building separated from the river by a wide quay and with a
large open space at its back. Until the building of the
" Loop Line " the west side was also open and there was a
beautiful view of the whole from O'Connell-bridge. It is a
Doric building, and was built by James Gandon, 1781-91^1
a cost of over a quarter of a million. The south front
facing the river has a fine centre portico (with sculpture
representing England and Ireland embracing) connected by
arcades to the end pavilions. Above is a richly pillared
cupola with copper dome, from the top of which rises a
circular pedestal bearing a heroic statue of Hope. Each
end pavilion has two tall recessed pillars.

The north front is somewhat similar, but the central
portico has no entablature ; it bears statues of Europe, Asia,
Africa and America, Most of the stone carving was done by
Ed. Smyth ; the heads represent the rivers of Ireland.
The open space opposite the north front has been the scene
of many great meetings j it was here, in 1 840, that Father
Mathew addressed thousands, and administered the pledge
to them. The east side is occupied by docks. The interior
of the Custom House is not worth visiting.

Going west along Eden-quay, O'Connell- (or Carlisle) bridge
is reached, and Farrell's fine marble statue of Smith O'Brien
can be seen at the farther side. Carlisle-bridge was built in
1794; it was narrow and steep, and in 1880 the crown of the

arches was lowered and it was doubled in width. It is now
perfectly level and the full width of Sackville-street. Owing
to a dispute between the Corporation and the Port and
Docks Board, it received on its re-opening two names, and
is indifferently known as O'Connell-bridge or Carlisle-
bridge. It is divided into two parts by a central pathway.

From O'Connell-bridge one of the best views of Dublin
can be obtained. Up the river are seen the handsome
quays, with the towers of Christ Church Cathedral, the Synod
Hall, and Augustinian Church rising above them, and in the
distance the Phoenix Park. Down the river are seen the

SACKVILLE STREET.

Custom House and the shipping, and on a clear day with
an east wind the south wall can be seen stretching out into
the sea. To the south is Westmoreland-street, with the
boldly projecting portico of the Bank and the end pavilion
of the faQade of Trinity College, and D'Olier-street,
showing at its end other buildings of Trinity. To the north
(the direction in which we are to go) stretches Sackville-
street, a street of magnificent proportion ; the projecting
portico of the G. P. O. and Nelson's Pillar, and several
statues form breaks, the Rotunda Buildings and the spire
of S. George's closing the view.
The O'Connell Monument was erected in 1882,

from the design of Foley, and is one of his finest works.
The statue of O'Connefl stands on a lofty drum, round
which are a number of figures pressing forward to hear
what Erin, freed from her fetters and pointing upwards to
O'Connell, is telling of her Liberator ; at the corners are
four figures emblematic of O'Connell's great qualities
Patriotism, Eloquence, Justice, Fortitude.

A little further on, where Abbey-street crosses, is Farrell's
statue of Sir John Gray, to whose action Dublin is indebted
for its splendid water supply. Lower Abbey-street (to the
right) contains the Mechanics' Institute, Christian
Union Buildings, and several places of worship.

Passing the Hotel Metropole on the left and Prince's-
street,from which issues the Freeman 's Journal, the General
Post Office is reached. It is a splendid building, designed
by F.Johnston, and
erected in 1818.
There used to be
entrances into a
vestibule under the
portico', but these
have been built up,
and letters are
posted from the
pathway; the offices
for Stamps, Tele-
graph, and Parcels
Post opening from
Prince's - street.
The interior of the
building is practi-
cally given up to
Sorting and Tele-
graphy ; parcels
being sorted in
Amiens-street, and
other branches of
work being carried
on in Nos. 14 and
1 5 "Upper Sackville

street. GENERAL POST OFFICE.

Nelson's Pillar was erected in 1808, and is a tall
Tuscan column, on the top of which stands a fine statue of
Nelson, carved by Kirk. A winding staircase admits to
a balcony from which a good view is obtained on a clear
day. (Admittance 3d.) There were steps round the pillar,
and to reach the bottom of the centre staircase a descent
had to be made through a trap-door, but in 1894 the steps
were removed, and a porch added. Looking up Henry-
street (to the west) the tower of S. Michan'S is seen,
and the Amiens-street Terminus of the G. N. R. is seen
far down Earl-street (to the east).

THE PRO-CATHEDRAL.

A detour may here be made by going a short way down
Earl-street and turning up Marl borough-street to the left.
The Pro-Cathedral (Cathedral of S. Mary), 1825,
stands on the left ; it is a fine Doric building raised on a plat-
form and has a wide portico of six fluted pillars. Figures of
the Virgin, S. Lawrence O'Toole, and S. Joseph surmount it.
The interior contains some fine altars and monuments ; of
the latter those of Cardinal Cullen and Archbishop Murray
deserve special notice. Opposite the Cathedral are the
Model Schools, which well deserve a visit; here teachers are

trained to manage the different varieties of schools which
they will be likely to meet afterwards throughout Ireland.
There is a statue of McDonnell in front. The building next
Earl-street is the old town house of the Tyrone family
(Waterford House) ; it was designed by Cassels and
has a fine mahogany staircase and good stucco work.

Returning to Sackville-street by the lane beside the
Cathedral, No. 10, Drogheda House, now occupied
by the Hibernian Bible Society, can be visited ; it contains
splendid examples of old woodwork and stucco. Nearly

THE KOTUNDA HOSPITAL.

opposite is the statue of Father Mathew by Miss Redmond.
At the opposite side, No. 43 was the home of the Land
League, and is now occupied by its successor, the National
League ; from its windows many orations have been
delivered.

The Rotunda Hospital faces Great Britain-street;
it has a fine cut stone front, curved wings, and a lofty cupola.
It was opened about 1760 through the exertions of Dr.
Mosse, who also laid out the Square at the back. The
entrance hall, staircase, and chapel are worth seeing. The

Round Room and the Caven-
dish-row buildings were added
afterwards, and are used for
concerts, dances, &c., the
profits going to the hospital.
The Wedgewood frieze of ox-
heads outside the Round
Room is worth noticing.

Proceeding up Cavendish-
row and Rutland-square, E.,
we are in what was the best
part of Dublin in pre-Union
days, a large number of the
nobility having lived within a radius of a few
hundred yards. At the upper corner of the Square is a
lodge with a portico which was built as a shelter for the
sedan-chair men. Opposite is Rutland-square Pres-
byterian Church, 1864, a fine building in decorated
Gothic, with a lofty spire. Proceeding along the north side
of the Square Charlemont House is reached ; it stands
back with a gravel sweep in front, and is now the General
Register Office.

Retracing our steps to the church we go up Gardiner'S-
row and Great Denmark-street until we reach No. 8, a
large house standing by itself; this is Belvidere House,
and the staircase and reception rooms should be visited. No
other building gives such a good idea of the lavish but
tasteful expenditure in old Dublin. Opposite to Belvidere
House opens North Great George's-street, which contains
some fine mansions. (Kemnare House.)

Going on to the corner of Temple-street two churches are
seen ; the square tower seen down Hill-street belonged to
Little S. George's Church, 1714; that to the left is
the present parish church of S. George. (To visit the
Jesuit Church of S. Francis Xavier, go on straight
through Gardiner's-place to Mountjoy-square and turn
to the left along Upper Gardiner-street. After seeing
the church, S. George's can be reached by Dorset-street.)
Passing along Temple-street the Children's Hospital is
passed and S. George's Church reached. This is a fine
classical building, with a graceful, well-proportioned spire,

200 feet high. It was designed by F. Johnston, and opened
in 1813. It stands in an open space, and is built of cut
granite. There is a fine portico and boldly projecting
frieze. The well decorated ceiling and carved woodwork are
worth seeing.

Going up Eccles-street, Johnston's house (64) and
Tyrawley House ( 1 8 and 1 9) are passed. At the upper end on
the right, is the Mater Misericordise Hospital, with

MATER MISERICORDLE HOSPITAL.

a noble frontage of cut granite and two long wings ; it
is the largest hospital in Dublin. At the opposite side is a
railed-in space containing a memorial cross of Irish design
and inscription to the memory of the authors of the Annals
of the Four Masters. Beyond this open space is the beautiful
Church of S. Joseph. Passing it, Blessington-street is
reached. At the upper end is the old basin which supplied
the north city with canal water until the introduction of

the Vartry ; the ground round the basin was laid out as a
public garden in 1891 by the Corporation.

Crossing Blessington-street and passing Mountjoy-street,
the " Black Church," or S. Mary's Chapel of Ease is reached.
It is an early nineteenth century attempt at Gothic architec-
ture, with poor details. Turning to the right through a
gateway and proceeding along a private road the Broad-
Stone terminus of M.G.W.R. is reached. It has a granite
facade of Egyptian design, and an extensive lateral
portico. The warehouses beyond mark the site of the
old canal harbour, but this is now filled up. From
the bridge in front of the terminus a fine view of
Dublin can be obtained. This bridge is called the
Foster Aqueduct, and used to carry the canal over Phibs-
borough Road. At present the canal stops short of the
bridge. Descending to the road below the Aqueduct, the
grounds of King's Inns are entered. The fagade of the
King's Inns is a very handsome one, and is well carved.
Passing through the building by an archway, a narrow, dark
courtyard is reached ; this opens by a very heavy gateway
into Henrietta-Street, perhaps the finest of the old
Dublin streets, but now sadly decayed. The stone building
to the right is the Library of the Inns ; the first house to the
left is Blessington House.

(On reaching Bolton-street a detour of 100 yards to the
left will reach the Church and new Priory of S.
Saviour.)

Turning to the right along Bolton-street the top of Capel-
street is passed, and Green-street with its Courthouse and
the remains of Newgate Prison can be seen. Facing the
Courthouse is the new perpendicular fagade (1893 G. C.
Ashlin) of S. Michan's Catholic Church. The facade
in Anne-street and the rest of the church were built in 1814,
and are not of much interest.

Passing on, Church-street is reached ; turning along it to
the left, the Capuchin Church of S. Mary of Angels is on
the right ; it has a fine fagade, but the carving is unfinished.
Beside it is the Father Mathew Memorial Hall, erected 1889 ;
this is one of the chief centres of Dublin temperance work.
Still further on the right is S. Michan's Church ;
this was the first church built on the north side of the river,

and parts of it date from the end of the nth century. Most
of it was, however, rebuilt in 1686 and 1828. The tower
stands at the far end, and is the finest church tower in the

city ; the rest of the church externally presents no features of
interest. Internally the church is spacious, but ugly ; there
is an old organ (said, incorrectly, to have been the instru-

ment Handel used in playing the Messiah) ; on the front of
the organ gallery is a fine piece of wood carving. There are
some curious tombs, including an effigy, said by tradition, to
be that of S. Michan. The church plate is interesting and
includes fine examples of i6th and iyth century work. In
the churchyard are some interesting stones ; those of Lucas,
of some of the United Irishmen, and of Emmet (apocryphal)
will be pointed out. The vaults under the church are much
visited by those whose love of the curious overpowers their
objection to the ghastly. In these vaults coffins decay, but
bodies become shrivelled and mummified, and outlast their
receptacles. Bodies from one to two hundred years' old
are displayed to the curious, and other grim sights can be
seen, including one vault in which all the dead are placed in
the standing position.

A few yards further on, passing the Police Courts and
Record Office, Inn's-quay is reached, and the Four Courts
can be visited. This magnificent building (1796) reaches
from Whitworth-bridge to Richmond-bridge, and consists of
a centre and two side blocks of buildings separated by
courtyards and connected by screen arcades in front, and
by buildings behind. The centre block is surmounted by a
fine dome, and is entered through a lofty portico. The chief
internal feature is the Central Hall, from which
the Four Courts open. This hall is domed,
and coupled columns and bas-reliefs adorn the
walls ; it contains several statues. The courts
themselves are not worth visiting unless some
case of unusual interest is being tried.

Crossing Whitworth-bridge (built on the site
of the oldest Dublin bridge), Bridge-street is
reached ; going up it a short way Cook-street
(on the right) is reached ; this is the seat of
the coffin trade, and until lately in several
shops slates were kept, on which place and
date of customers' wakes were entered. A
sharp turn to the left shows S. Audoen's
Arch (131 5), the only gate way of Dublin now
remaining ; passing under it, and so into the
old city, S. Audoen's Church is reached,
and passing between it and the churchyard

(supported by the city walls, and now opened to the public
as a garden), the west front of the church, with its curious
old tower, is passed, and Corn Market reached. The curved
wall of Lambe-alley shows the remains of another part of
the City Walls. S. Audoen's Church should be visited.

After the
i Cathedrals,
it is the
most inter-
esting ec-
clesiastical
structure in
Dublin.

A short
distance be-
yond Corn
Market, to
the west, is
the Church
of SS- Au-
gustine
and John:
its facade
should not
be missed.
Further on
is S. Ca-
therine's
Church,
before
which Em-
m e t was
executed
(1803), and a little further on is Guinness' Brewery.

Returning to S. Audoen's, and going east, Christ
Church Cathedral and the Synod Hall (connected
together by a graceful bridge crossing the street in a single
arch) are seen. Going under the bridge, and a short way
down the hill, the west facade and the north side of the
Cathedral are well seen. The transept, tower and side of the
early English nave are original ; the projecting building at the

CHRIST CHURCH CATHEDRAL (EAST END).

north-west corner is a baptistery. The
west end is not striking, not having the
"screen" structure, so effectively used in
many English cathedrals, but rhe five-
light window and carved door are of fine
design. Re-passing under the bridge,
the south side of the Cathedral should
be studied, and the space on which are
the "cloister garth," and ruins of the old
Chapter House. On this space several generations of
buildings stood, part of Skinners'-row, old Christ Church-
yard, and the Law Courts having been built on the site of
the monastic buildings. The removal of the buildings took
place at various times, but the ruins of the Chapter House
were uncovered, and the site of the Cloister marked out,
only a few years ago.

In 1878, the Cathedral was restored by George Street,
at the cost of Henry Roe. The south wall of the nave had
fallen years before and a blank wall stood in its place ; so
that part had to be erected de novo ; the east end also is new,
a tasteless fifteenth century chancel having been built over
the remains of the older work. Mr. Street's work is as far
as possible an exact copy of the older work, and here and
there throughout the building old stones are built in to show
the fidelity of the copy.

Entrance can be obtained by the south door of the nave.
The nave is open free to visitors, but for the chancel, transept,
and crypt a charge of 6d. is made. The visitor, no matter how
hurried, should visit these parts, as otherwise much of beauty
and of interest will be missed.

When leaving the Cathedral the path inside the railings
should be followed ; leaving the precincts by the east gate.
By this means the Norman doorway in the south transept,
and the beautiful arrangement of the east end will be seen.
To the right will be seen S. Werburgh's-street with S.
Werburgh's Church.

Lord Edward-street (opened 1886) leads to Dame-street,
at the near end of which (and marking the old city wall and
gateway of S. Mary la Dame) is the City Hall (formerly
the Royal Exchange) a beautiful building (1769) in Corin-
thian style, crowned by a low dome. Inside is a hall,

containing statues, including a fine one of O'Connell. On
the floor the standard measures are displayed. The Council
Chamber may also be visited.

Continuing along Dame-street the front of Trinity College
is soon regained, a distance of some 5 or 6 miles having been
covered. This round can easily be done on one day by the
help of a car, but the tourist who can afford time should
devote longer to it, and so be able to carry away a deepe-
impression.

AFTER A HARD DAT.

CHAPTER VI.
Dublin from a Tramcar.

'UBLIN is well supplied with tram lines, most of
which start from Nelson's Pillar in Sack-
ville-street ; College Green is another start-
ing point, and nearly all lines touch one
or other of these centres. The Blackrock,
Kingstown, and Dalkey electric system starts from Lower
Abbey-street, and runs over Dublin lines to Beggar's Bush.
The Blessington and the Lucan steam trams are in connec-
tion with the Rathmines and Phoenix Park (north quay)
lines respectively, which carry passengers to the commence-
ment of the steam lines.

The tram cars are well appointed, and run frequently ;
the fares are moderate.

The top of a tram car is a pleasant position from which
to gain a knowledge of the city and its surroundings. The
following sketches will enable the traveller to identify most
of the objects of interest that are passed. Of course, r.
stands for right-hand and 1. for left-hand. The passenger is
supposed to be looking in front. As the number of trams
per hour varies at different times during the day, it is only
possible here to give the average number. Full particulars
of hours and fares will be found in the company's time
tables (free).

RATHMINES AND TERENURE ( 3 i miles).
From the south side of Nelson's Pillar every few minutes.

FARES. To top of Dawson-street (S. Stephen' s-green), id. ;
Portobello Bridge^ 2d. ; whole way, 3 d.

Leaving Nelson's Pillar the Post Office is passed r. ;
Prince's-street between it and the Hotel Metropole contains
the Freemari s Journal building ; the statue of Sir John Gray,
and the fine O'Connell Memorial are passed 1., and
O'Connell Bridge is crossed, Butt Bridge and the Custom
House being seen 1., and the Metal and the Essex Bridges
and the towers of Christ Church Cathedral, Synod House,
and Augustinian Church, r.

T.C.D., FROM GRAFTON STREET.

In Westmoreland-street, the Ballast Board's Office, r.,
the Irish Times building, 1., are passed, and the Bank portico
(outside the old House of Lords), and the front of T.C.D.
are seen in front ; the Bank is passed r., and Moore s
statue, 1. Passing the front of T.O.D., with the statues of
Burke and Goldsmith, a good view of College-green and
Dame-street is obtained. The chief portico of the Bank,
several fine banks and insurance offices, and the statues of
Grattan and William III., are prominent.

Going up the lower part of Grafton-street the Provost's

House is 1. ; without entering the narrow part of Grafton-
street, the line turns 1. down Nassau-street, the railings of
the College Park (a good view of the College buildings
being obtained) are 1.

(Here Donny brook tram goes off.)

Turning to the r. up Dawson-street, Leinster House is
seen down Molesworth-street, 1., and projecting on the 1. side
of Molesworth-street may be seen the portico of the

THE LAKE, S. STEPHEN'S GREEN PARK.

Masonic Hall ; S. Ann's Church, the Royal Irish
Academy, and the Mansion House are passed in suc-
cession 1., and S. Stephen'S-green is reached (Id).

Turning r. past some fine clubs, Grafton-street is passed
r., and the Gaiety Theatre and Mercer's Hospital seen
some distance in front. Turning 1., and going along the
W. side of the Green, the College of Surgeons and

Unitarian Church are passed r., and the statue of Lord

Ardilaun 1.

Harcourt-street is next traversed. The terminus of the

D. W. & W. R. is at the top L, and the High School and

Baptist Chapel r. Turning r. to Harcourt-road the Pal-

merston Park tram line
is crossed, and the South
Circular-road, with S.
Kevin's Catholic
Church r. and S.
Kevin's Church 1.
seen in front.

Richmond-street 1.
leads to Portobello
Bridge. The harbour
and disused hotel r. re-
mind us of pre-railway
days, when people tra-
velled by "fly boats" on
the Grand Canal (2d.)-
Rathmines-road, a tine suburban thoroughfare has the

beautiful facade of S. Mary's Church L, and Portobello

Barracks r. The Dublin Mountains are seen in front.

Bending r. Rathgar-road is entered, and another bend r.

leads through Terenure-road to Terenure.

From this the tram car to Rathfarnham can be taken, or

the steam tram to Blessington and Poulaphuca.

DONNYBROOK (3 miles).
From south side of Nelson's Pillar, about 8 times an hour.

FARES Merr ion-square, id./ Baggotrath Church^

whole way^ 30!.

Rathmines Tram Line to bottom of Dawson-street, con-
tinuing along Nassau-street with the railings of the College
Park 1., Kildare-street, with the richly carved Kildare-street
Club at the corner is passed ; at the 1. side of Kildare-street,
the portico of the College of Physicians is seen.

The University Medical School is at the end of the park 1.
Merrion-square (Id.) is reached, and Leinster Lawn,

with the Natural History Museum, and National
Gallery is seen at the west side r. The line passes the
north and east sides of the square; then S. Stephen's
Church is seen 1. Going up Lower Fitzwilliam-street
Fitzwilliam-square is seen in front. Turning 1.
into Baggot-street the Canal Bridge is reached. Then the
City of Dublin Hospital is passed 1., and Baggotrath Church,
r. (2d.).
Turning r. the line goes up Waterloo- road, along More-

DONNYBROOK CATHOLIC CHURCH.

hampton-road, with Hospital for Incurables r. When
passing through the village of Donnybrook, the fields, L, are
the site of the old " Donnybrook Fair," the annual scene of
drunkenness and fighting, until abolished in 1855. To the
r. is a handsome memorial gateway leading into the old
churchyard.

A straight run leads to the river Dodder and the end of
the line, S. Mary's Church, 1., is a fine modern building,
in early English style, designed by G. Ashlin. To the r.
is a tramway depot.

IRISHTOWN AND SANDYMOUNT

(3! miles).
From south side of Nelson's Pillar, about 8 times an hour,

FARES To Westland Row Railway Station, id. ; Sandy-
mount-green, 2d ; whole way, 3d.

Rathmines Tram-line until CPConnell Bridge is crossed.
Turning to the left down D'Olier-street the statue of Smith
O'Brien is passed r., and Junior Army and Navy
Stores 1.

Bending 1. into Great Brunswick-street, the Crampton
Memorial and Trinity College Buildings are passed
r., the Corinthian portico of the Bank of Ireland
being seen behind. To the 1. in Hawkins'-street is the
Leinster Hall, and in Townsend-street the Coffee
Palace.

Going along Great Brunswick-street, the Queen's
Theatre is passed, r ; the Loop Line crosses overhead
near S. Mark's Church, 1.

Turning r. the Loop Line again crosses, entering into
Westland-row terminus (Id.) S. Andrew's Church is
passed L, as is the Royal Irish Academy of Music.
A turn L, and again r., passes Merrion Hall (Plymouth
Brethren) l.,and the tram turns 1. into Merrion-square N.
on the lines used by the Donnybrook and Blackrock trams.
The National Gallery and Natural History
Museum are seen at the W.
side of the Square.

Passing along the north side
of the Square, Lower Mount-
street is entered ; it leads to a
bridge over the Grand Canal.
Sir P. Dun's Hospital can be
seen a little to the 1. A little
further on the Blackrock line is
left by a turn, L, and the Beggar's
Bush Barracks passed r. Dip-
ping under the Kingstown Rail-
way, a straight run, crossing the
Dodder, leads to Irishtown, the

Church (S. Matthew's), being L Turning r., and passing
the Presbyterian Church r., and Star of the Sea Church 1.,
Sandymount-green is soon reached (2d.). Soon afterwards
turning r., the Strand-road is reached, and from this on,
the open sea is on the L, except when the tide is out ;
then a wide expanse of sand intervenes. The line ends at a
Martello Tower, Mernon pier and baths jutting out into
the sea. Sandymount Church lies a little to the r., and a
few minutes' walk straight on leads to Merrion Station and
to the Blackrock tram line.

PALMERSTON PARK (AND CLONSKEA)

(3 miles).

From the south side of Nelson's Pillar about 6 times an hour.

FARES South City Market, id. ; Ranelagh, 2d. ; whole

way, 3d. Rathmines line as far as College Green.

Turning r. down
Dame-street the
Bank of Ireland
and the statues of
Grattan and Wil-
liam 1 1 1. are passed
r. ; the National,
Ulster, and Hiber-
nian Banks, 1. Tur-
ning 1. South Great
George's - street is
entered, and the
South City Mar-
kets soon reached
(Id.). Nearly op-
posite, standing
slightly back, is the
old house where
Dr. Mosse estab-
lished the first

Lying-in Hospital THE ORIGINAL LYING-IN HOSPITAL
in 1745. In Aun- OP DR. MOSSE.

gier-street, No. 12, 1.,
was the birth-place of T.
Moore. Carmelite
Church, disused Car-
michael College of
Medicine, and S.
Peter's Church,
r. The streets to the
right and left contain
some interesting old
houses. Along Camden-
street, to Charlemont-
street, where the Rath-
mines line is crossed.
A few yards previously
the Harold's Cross line
went oft', r.

A straight run leads
to the Canal bridge, and
continuing on, Mount-
pleasant-square is r.,
and going under railway
bridge, Ranelagh is
reached (2d.).

JUNCTION FOR CLONSKEA.

Turning r. under railway and 1., along Palmerston-road ,
Palmerston Park is reached.

CLONSKEA. Change at Ranelagh into special car (which
meets about every second tram). Sandford Church is passed
r., and a short run brings the car to the terminus, from
which the pretty scenery of the Dodder is easily visited.

HAROLD'S CROSS AND KENILWORTH

SQUARE (3 miles).

Cars about 6 times an hour.

FARES South City Market, id. ; Leonard's Corner, ad. ;

Whole way, 3d.
Palmerston Park line to Camden Street.

Bending r. up Upper Carnden street Harrington-street is

OLD HOUSE OP THE SEVEN GABLES.

entered, S. Kevin's Catholic Church r., South Circular-
road, S. Kevin's Church 1.

At Leonard's corner (2d.) turn 1. into Clanbrassil-street.
Wellington Barracks are a few yards further on.

The Grand Canal is crossed and a number of old houses are
seen 1. Harold's Cross Green, Mount Jerome Cemetery,
and Harold's Cross Church on r., and a short road leading
to Kenilworth-square is reached.

On Sundays the trams go further on, reaching Terenure
by this line, and running on to Rathfarnham.

INOHICORE (4 mUes).

From College Green 4-6 times an hour.

FARES Augustine Church, id. ; Jameses-street. 2d. ; whole
way, 3d.

This line runs along Dame-street, passing r. Bank of
Ireland, Commercial Buildings ; 1., St. Andrew's
Church (top Church Lane), South City Markets (in
S. George's-street), the gateway into Lower Castle Yard
(up Palace-street). At the end (on the site of the east wall
of the old city) Parliament-street with Essex-bridge and
Capel-street are seen r., and the City Hall and Municipal
Buildings, with the gateway into the Upper Castle Yard
between them 1.

Passing along Lord Edward-street (opened 1 886) Christ
Church Cathedral is reached and passed r., the
east end, the south side, bridge, and Synod Hall being well
seen.

Corn Market marks the west wall of the old city ; here
Newgate stood, and a portion of one of its towers forms
the side of Lambe Alley, 1. S Audoen's Church is r., and
the Arch (City Walls) lies below it.

In Thomas street the Church of S- Augustine and
John (Id.) is r., and S. Catherine's Church 1. Here
Emmet was executed. Guinness' Brewery is next passed.
1., and passing S. James's Church, 1., the Fountain in James's-
street is reached (2d.). S. James's Church r. and " Swift's"

Lunatic Asylum and Royal Hospital are seen in
front. Kingsbridge Terminus and Steevens' Hospital
lier.

S. Dublin Union is passed 1., and Kilmainham, with its
courthouse and gaol, and the gate of the Royal Hospital,
are seen r., on the road leading to Island Bridge and the
Phoenix Park.

At Inchicore are the works of the G. S. & W. R. and of
the Tram Co.

CLONTARF (3 miles) AND DOLLYMOUNT

(4 miles).
From north side of Nelson's Pillar, about 4 times an hour.

FARES Amiens-street, Loop Line Station, id. ; the
Crescent, 2d. ; whole way, 3d.

Leaving the north side of the Pillar the car goes east
along Earl-street, Amiens-street Station being seen in front
at the end of Talbot-street. At Marlborough-street the
Pro-Cathedral and Model Schools lie 1. At Gardiner-
street the Custom House is seen, r., and Mountjoy-
square, 1. Passing under the Loop Line the Terminus
of the G. N. R. is reached and passed, r., on turning
into Amiens-street. A few yards further on the Loop Line
is again passed under, and its station is r. (Id.)

At the corner of Lower Gloucester-street Aldborough
House is seen, 1. The line then crosses the canal and
passes through " Mud Island," reclaimed by Dutch settlers
early in the eighteenth century by building a dyke and
pumping out the water with windmills. The Tolka is then
crossed by Annesley Bridge, Ballybough Bridge lying L,
and Fairview strand is reached. The large tidal estuary on
the r. shut in by the G. N. R. is pretty when the tide is in,
but when the tide is out the wish of the residents in the
neighbourhood to have it turned into a people's park can
be well understood !

The fine gateway of Marino (formerly belonging to

Lord Charlemont) is passed, 1., as is the Crescent (2(1.)
which lies between the Malahide (S. Doulough's) and
Howth Roads, and the railway is passed under.

From this on the line to Clontarf has the estuary on
the r. Clontarf Castle and Church are passed, 1.

Some of the trams go a mile further on to Dollymount.
Here a bridge, r., leads out to the North Bull, with its
rifle range and golf links. A little further than the end of
the tram line is the entrance to Lord Ardilaun's place,
S. Ann's.

PHCENIX PARK (North Circular-road).

From Sackville-street, north side of Nelson's Pillar about
four times an hour.

FARES Mount joy- street, id. ; Grangegorman-lane, zd. ;
whole way, 3d.

Going up Sackville-street, Father Mathew Statue is
passed, r., and Rotunda Hospital and Rooms seen in
front, and, 1., going up Rutland-square, Rotu nda and
Gardens (Rutland-square), L, National Club, r. The small
building with portico, 1., at corner of square was formerly
a shelter for sedan-chair men. Rutland- square Church,
a fine modern Gothic building, is next passed, L, and at the
same side is seen Charlemont House, forming the re-
cessed centre of the north side of the square. Gardiner' S-
row is passed, r., and the next turn, r., gives a passing
view of S. George's Church.

At Dorset-street the Drumcondra tram line is crossed.

At Mountjoy-street (Id.) the " Black Church " (chapel-of-
ease to S. Mary's) is seen, L, and the gardens in front are the
old Basin from which the Royal Canal water supply of
north Dublin was drawn.

The line bends, r., and S. Joseph's Church, an Irish
Cross to the authors of the Annals of the Four Masters, and
Mater Misericordise Hospital are passed, r.

At the next turn, L, Mountjoy Prison is on the r., a
steep hill leads to the bridge over the Broadstone branch

of the Royal Canal. From this there is a good view of
Dublin, L The main Canal is seen, r.

At the next crossing, " Dunphy's Corner," the Glasnevin
Tram Line goes off, r. All Saint's Church, Grange-
gorman lies to the 1.

S. Peter's Church, Phibsboro', is now left, r., a good
view of the "east" end and the schools being obtained. The
square, 1., is occupied by employes of M. G. W. Railway,
which is soon crossed, the terminus is seen 1.

s. PETER'S, PHIBSBORO'

At Grangegorman-lane (2d.) Grangegorman Prison and
Richmond Lunatic Asylum are seen, 1. Further on to r. is
Female Orphan House.

The Cattle Market is passed, L, and the Abattoir, r.,
the new Marlborough Barracks are seen lying to the r., as
are the Constabulary Barracks. From this is a straight run to
the Park gate, the Wellington 'Testimonial showing
high above the trees in front.

GLASNEVIN TRAM.

From Sackville-street, north side of Nelson's Pillar twice an
hour.

FARES Mount joy-street^ id. ; Munster-street, zd. ; whole
way, 3d.

Phoenix Park (North Circular Road) to " Dunphy's
Corner"

Turning r. from Phcenix Park Tram Line, S. Peter's Church,
Phibsboro', is seen to the left. Munster-street (2d.)
is passed. Another bridge over Royal Canal is crossed.
The Mills 1. were built by Malet (Malet's folly, as he
intended to work by water-power, which the canal failed to
supply) for a foundry Fine view of Dublin Bay, North
Wall, &c., r. Further S. Vincent de Paul Male
Orphanage 1. The turn 1. leads to front entrance of
Prospect Cemetery, the walls, watch towers, and old
gateway are seen 1.

Botanic Gardens are soon reached 1. The "Ink-
bottle" Schoolhouse and wooden chapel are seen r., and
the R. Tolka crossed, the line stopping at the bottom of the
steep street of Glasnevin.

KINGSBRIDGE (2 miles).

From Westland Row Terminus of D. W. & W. R., from
6 to 8 times an hour.

FARES O'Connell Bridge ; id. ; Winetavern-street, 2d.
y, 3d. inside ; 2d. outside.

Leaving Westland-row and turning 1. Great Brunswick-
street is traversed. Antient Concert Rooms and
S. Mark's Church r., passing under Loop Line,
Queen's Theatre L Turning r. Crampton Memorial,
the side of Trinity College, and portico of the Bank Of
Ireland are left L, and Coffee Palace and Leinster
Hall r. Passing through D'Olier-street, the Smith
O'Brien Statue and O'Connell Bridge are left r. (Id.), and

the quays are traversed, the river and its bridges being on
the r. At Grattan Bridge the City Hall is seen 1., and at

Richmond Bridge
(2d) Christ
Church Cathe-
dral is seen L
up Winetavern-
street, and the
Four Courts are
passed r. S.
Paul's Catholic
Church r. (with
the tower of
S. Michan's
Church seen be-
hind it). The
Mendicity 1.,
Guinness's Wharf
r., and the Royal

Barracks r. are the other chief objects of interest, before
Kingsbridge Terminus, G. S. & W. R., is reached.

THE WHARF, GUTNNESS's BREWERY.

WESTLAND-ROW AND HARCOURT-
STREET.

Every 1 5 minutes. FARE, id.

Passing Royal Irish Academy of Music L and
Lincoln Place, with S. Mark's Hospital and the entrance
to Trinity College Medical School r., the line bends L,'
passing Merrion Hall (Plymouth Brethren ^ L, and passes
along the West side of Merrion-square. The
Leinster Lawn, with the National Gallery, Leinster
House, Natural History Museum, and Prince
Albert Memorial being r., and the Old Fountain 1.

In Merrion-street, No. 24 (Mornington House), L,
was the birth place of the Duke of Wellington.

Crossing Baggot-street, Ely-place and Hume-street are
traversed, and the line runs along the E. side of S.

Stephen's Green, past the College of Science, and
S. Vincent's Hospital.

Leaving the Green, the Royal University is passed
r., and Alexandra College, Alexandra School,

Clergy Daughters' School, and Skating Rink 1., and the
line turns r., running along Lord Iveagh's Garden to
Harcourt-street, when it ends at the side of the Terminus
D. W. & W. R.

PHOENIX PARK (North Quays) i miles.

From N.W. corner of O'Connell-bridge.
FARES Richmond-bridge, id. ; whole way, ad.

Follows route of Kingsbridge line from O'Connell-bridge
to Kingsbridge, only at the North side of the river, stopping
at Parkgate-street outside the Park gate and close to the
terminus of the Lucan Steam Tram.

DRUMCONDRA (2 miles).

From College-green 3-4 times an hour.

FARES Bolton-street, id; whole way, 2d.

Leaving the statue of Grattan, that of William III. is
passed 1., and S. Andrew's Church seen 1. The Com-
mercial Buildings r. At South Gt. George's-street the
South City Markets are seen 1., and at Palace-street the
Lower Castle Yard is 1. Leaving the City Hall and
Lord Edward-street, with Christ Church Cathedral
at end, 1., the line bends r. along Parliament-street and
Essex-street and crosses Grattan-bridge.

At the top of Capel-street Bolton-street is reached (Id.),
Green-street Courthouse being a few yards 1. Bending
r. Henrietta-street is passed 1., and S. Saviour's
Church and Priory, r., Bethesda Church r., and S.
Mary's Chapel of Ease 1. are passed at the next crossing,

and then the top of Frederick-street is reached and the
Phoenix Park line is crossed.

Going along Dorset-street, at the bottom of Ecdes-
street the Mater Misericordiae Hospital is seen
far up to the L, and S. George's Church close at the r.
Passing the end of Gardiner-street, S. Francis Xavier
Church is seen a little to the r. The Canal is then
crossed and Drumcondra entered, Clonliffe Road is
passed r. At the end of a cutting with grassy slopes, the
Palace of the Roman Catholic Archbishop is seen r., and r
behind it, Holycross College. To the left is S,
Alphonsup Convent.

The line stops at the bridge crossing the Tolka the road
to the 1. leads to the Botanic Gardens. The place to
the r. across the Bridge is Clonturk Park.

There are several shorter lines, but they run over the
main lines already described.

S. ALPHONSUS CONVENT.

CHAPTER VII.
Trips in the Neighbourhood of Dublin.

HE visitor, who has sufficiently exa-
mined the city itself, will naturally
desire to learn something of its en-
virons ; and few towns so extensive
as Dublin can boast of scenic beau-
ties at all comparable to these which
are so abundant in the district lying
all around the city. Within easy
reach by rail, tram, or car, the tourist
can find scenery of almost every possible kind wild moun-
tain gorges, peaceful vales, picturesque glens or rushing
torrents, not to
mention the coast
scenery, which has
a beauty all its own.
He will, indeed, be
hard to please who
does not find in
VVicklow variety
enough and charm
enough to gratify
every taste. We
shall here merely
sketch a very few
of the excursions
which are most po-
pular or most inter-
esting, leaving the A LONG CAU.

reader to find more detailed descriptions of the places
alluded to in the special articles given elsewhere. To see
all the beauties of the County Dublin alone would be a
task of many weeks ; but three or four excursions at least
are essential, before we go further afield.

FIRST TRIP.

0NE day must be devoted to visiting Kingstown, Killiney,
and Bray. The pier at Kingstown, the Victoria Park of
Killiney, and the glorious walk round Bray Head
should not be missed ; and the tourist may, if pressed for
time, combine all in one day's excursion, by going to Kings-
town by train and taking a car to Killiney, and thence to Bray.
If architecture or antiquarian research is of interest to him,
he may, with advantage, after fully enjoying the splendid
panorama of mountain, cliff and sea which Killiney affords,
enquire his way to the " Druid's Seat," which lies near the
village of Killiney. Close to the foot of the hill to the left
are the remains of one of the oldest Irish churches, dating
from the VI. century, a venerable structure well worth seeing.
A good cromlech may next be visited near Ballybrack
village on the way to Bray. The path round Bray Head
commands su-
perb views of
the bay and of
the Killiney
promontory
over which we
have passed.
Bray itself will
be visited
again, as almost
all the well-
known Wick-
low trips are
best taken
from this cen-

tre.

POULAPHUCA BEIDOE.

SECOND TRIP.

TITHE Liffey Valley may well afford a second day's excur-
JL sion, and the visitor can spend a most enjoyable day at
Lucan, with its Spa, Leixlip, where stands a fine old
castle, and Maynooth, the noble College where Catholic
youth are educated for the priesthood ; and he may visit
Carton demesne an ideal place for a picnic. The view from
the garden-front of the fine old house is simply magnificent.

DEER IN PH33NIX PARK.

THIRD TRIP.

0N the other hand he may take steam tram to Blessing-
ton and explore the upper Liffey, with Poulaphuca
Falls and many a lovely river reach. The Lucan
trip will, however, enable the stranger to drive through
the Phoenix Park and past the Strawberry Beds ; but
it must not be assumed that one short drive will exhaust the
many attractions of the Phoenix Park, which itself deserves
an entire day.

FOURTH TRIP.

TITO the north of County Dublin, the antiquary will in
A preference direct his steps and visit Swords, with its
Castle and Round Tower. Lusk also will be within
easy reach, and stone roofed Church and Well of S. Dou-
lough. ought on no account to be omitted, as it is quite
unique among Irish ecclesiastical structures. Malahide
Castle and Abbey can be seen and are of high interest.
This entire excursion may be undertaken by going to
Malahide by train, and there, after inspecting the Castle, &c.,
hiring car for S. Doulough's and Swords.

SWORDS CASTLE.

FIFTH TRIP.

POWTH, with its famous Hill, must be visited, and will
occupy a pleasant afternoon. It is best approached by
train. No more delightful place could be imagined
in which to spend a long summer day than the ferny or
heath-covered uplands of this peninsula. The more ener-
getic who delight in walking will take the cliff walk round
to the Bailey Lighthouse, and, if time permits, they can do
no better than continue the walk right round the headland

into Sutton, where they can catch the Dublin train.
Howth Harbour was built at the beginning of the century
as the packet station, but the silting up of the harbour has
gone on to such an extent that only small fishing boats now
resort to it. The so-called " Abbey " is worth a visit, but
is very ill-kept. At the opposite end of the village stands
Howth Castle, with most beautiful grounds. A particularly
fine cromlech may be seen here, the top slab being of

HOWTH ABBET.

enormous size. Ireland's Eye, with its ruined church,
is well worth a visit, especially if the sea is calm enough to
tempt one to row round the little island and visit the caves.

SIXTH TRIP.

0NE excursion must be mentioned which, though not
within the limit of the county, is so full of archaeological
interest and so comparatively easy to perform that the
visitor will be most amply repaid for the time spent upon

it. This is the trip to the famous river Boyne, with its
abbeys, battlefields, and old sepulchral mounds. The train
which leaves Amiens-street at 9 o'clock will carry the
tourist to Drogheda, where he must take a car for the
day. The first place to visit will be Monasterboice,
where the stranger will see the noblest existing examples of
the old Celtic Crosses and a fine Round Tower. From this
a short drive leads to the
famed Abbey of Melli-
font, the remains of
which acquire an extra
interest from the connec-
tion of the Abbey with the
English invasion of Ireland.
A picturesque drive through
King William's Glen brings
one to the site of the Battle
of the Boyne, marked now
by an Obelisk. The Boyne
itself is a most beautiful
river, and its banks are
rich with historic remains
of extreme interest to
archgeologists. From the
Obelisk we reach
D O W t h , first of the
great sepulchral chambers
which are comprised in
that vast cemetery of the
Boyne, wherein are interred

MUIREDACH'S CROSS. the kings who once ruled

MONASTERBOICB. j n Tara's Halls. A few

miles further on we come

to New Grange. Both of these tumuli ought to
be entered. It will be necessary to use artificial light in
order to see the carvings with which many of the stones are
enriched ; magnesium wire is far more efficient than candles
for the purpose. Even ladies can with ease penetrate into
the Great Chamber at New Grange, and no visitor should
think of leaving the spot without seeing with his own eyes
this absolutely unique spectacle. These tombs form part of

a vast necropolis stretching for miles along the banks of the
Boyne, and the period of their building is lost in the mists of

antiquity. Similar tumuli are found in great numbers at
Oldcastle, further up the river. Slane, with its Castle and
Hermitage of S. Ere, would well repay a visit, but could

hardly be done in a single day unless some of the sights
mentioned above were omitted. The district is so intimately

INTERIOR OP THE TUMIjLUS, NEW GRANGE.

connected with S. Patrick and with Irish history that its
mention needs no apology in a Guide to Dublin.

Most of the beauties of this exquisite county are within
easy driving distance from Bray, which should be reached
by an early train so as to leave a long day for each
excursion. Cars must be hired at the station, and a fixed
understanding made with the driver, who will show his
are-b ook on demand.

VARTRY BRIDGE, DARGLE.

SEVENTH TRIP.

TITHE first day in Wicklow will naturally be devoted to a

JL walk round Bray Head if this has not been already seen,

and afterwards a car may be hired for an afternoon

drive'to the romantic Dargle, a glen of exquisite beauty.

The drive from Bray runs through the Valley of Diamonds,
from which we have fine views of the Great Sugar Loat
(1,659 ft.), and, in the further distance to the right, the Djouce
Mountain, a round-topped hill (2,384 ft.), on the further side
of which are the well-known Loughs Tay and Dan. The
car must be left at the Dargle gate, and will drive on to En-
niskerry to pick up the visitors. The Powerscourt side
of the Dargle ought to be taken, as affording finer views and

more op-
portunity
for pleasant
scrambling
amid the
rocks and
trees. The
Moss House
is a delight-
ful spot for
lunch, after
which we
stroll to the
Lover's
Leap, a pre-
cipitous cliff
overhang-
ing the ra-
vine. Far
below a
bridge car-
ries across
the stream
the water
pipes which
supply Dub-
lin. The
View Rock
is next seen,
after which,
taking the

path to the right, we can pass out into the public road and find
our car awaiting us. Powerscourt Demesne, with its

POWERSCOURT FALLS, FROM THE SOUTH.

fine Waterfall, may then be visited ; but permission must be
secured at the Agent's Office in Enniskerry. There are two
routes to the Waterfall, one by Tinnahinch Bridge a most
picturesque road, abounding in charming views the other
passing by Powerscourt House with its fine gardens, which
ought to be visited.
This road runs through
the Demesne and joins
the other near Valclusa.
The famous Falls of
Powerscourt are apt
to be disappointing in
dry weather, and the
visitor at such time can
hardly conceive the
majesty of the sight
when the torrent, swol-
len by heavy rains,
rushes over the precipice in volumes of spray. If time
permits, the carmen ought to drive home through the Rocky
Valley by Kilmacanoge, two miles from which lies the
Glen of the Downs, a well-wooded ravine about a
mile long. Here may be seen Bellevue, seat of the La
Touche family. Turning to the left, at the bottom of the
Glen, we soon reach Delgany from which Greystones, a
popular sea side resort is distant a couple of miles. The
road to Bray runs past Kilruddery, seat of the Earl of Meath.

EIGHTH TRIP.

LEAVING Bray by the Valley of Diamonds as before, we
reach Enniskerry in 2^ miles. Turning to the right,
through the village, we can enter the well-known
Scalp which is, however, best viewed from the Dublin end.
Here, as in almost all Wicklow trips, the towering form of
the Great Sugar Loaf forms a fine background to the view.
Returning to Enniskerry we take the steep road running
directly inland. When the road branches, that to the right

leads to Glencullen.
We choose the turning
towards the left, and after
a couple of miles of steep
ascent find ourselves in the
Glencree Valley. The Glencree
Reformatory is 9* miles from
Bray, and lies in the middle of one
of the most desolate of all the val-
leys of Wicklow. The next turn to-
wards the left leads us to Loughs Bray,
Upper and Lower, by the great Military Road,
which was constructed in 1798, after the Rebellion. The
Reformatory may be visited. A. very sharp zig-zag ascent
will lead us from Lower to Upper Lough Bray, a mountain
tarn, above which on the West towers Kippure (2,475 feet).
Further on we pass the Source of the Liffey and a few miles
beyond this we reach Sally Gap, where four roads meet.
The direct road would lead us by Glenmacanass, with its
fine waterfall, to Laragh, and is one of the best routes, so
far as scenery is concerned, for reaching Glendalough.
The cyclist will here enjoy a down hill grade of almost
five miles to Laragh. For the present trip, however, we
shall take the turn to the right at Sally Gap, and in 2\
miles we come to the lonely but beautiful Lough Tay"
This lake, like the two Loughs Bray, is famed for its trout
fishing, as in even a greater degree is Lough Dan, which
is distant a couple of miles. The tourist fond of fishing
can get good accommodation at Togher (Roundwood).
Beside Lough Tay lies Luggela Lodge, nestling amidst
woods, the daintiest spot in all Wicklow. The road leads
now to Roundwood (5 m.) where are the splendid water-
works of the Corporation of Dublin. From Roundwood
we must drive back to Bray, passing round
the base of the Great Sugar Loaf and through
the Valley of Rocks. This trip possesses a
character all its own. The scenery is wild,
grand, and sombre, the silence almost op-
pressive; the gloomy lakes and the dark
framing hills are quite unlike the usual soft
beauty for which Wicklow is so famous.

NINTH TRIP.

TITHE well-known Devil's Glen can be visited in an after-
X noon by taking train to Rathnew Station, where cars
can be procured to the glen, 3 miles distant. It is a
romantic spot, and has two picturesque waterfalls, formed
by the Vartry river, which brawls along the bottom
of the ravine. From the View Rock, above the falls,
a glorious view of the Wicklow mountains may be
obtained. This trip may be made by stopping at
Wicklow instead of Rathnew, as the distance is only a mile
or so additional, and Wicklow is worth seeing for its own
sake. After walking through the Devil's Glen, a path leads
to the place where the cars pick up the visitor again. A
short drive to Togher will give the stranger an opportunity
of seeing the Vartry Waterworks. The reservoir, covering
an area of over 400 acres, contains a supply sufficient to serve
Dublin for more than six months. Its powers in this respect
were tested severely during the great drought of 1893, when
almost the whole area became dry, and bridges, unseen since
1868, when the waters were impounded, were again made
visible. Togher (or Roundwood) has good hotel accommo
dation, and the stranger might spend the night here and
drive next day through delightful scenery to famous Glenda-
lough, which is quite as well reached thus as in the usual
way from Rathdrum.

TENTH TRIP.

TITO visit Glendalough with comfort the tourist will take
A an early train to Rathdrum, and, hiring a car at the
station, drive first to Avoca, where he will see the
sweet Vale of Avoca and the Meeting of the Waters scenes
familiar to all readers of Moore's exquisite poetry. Castle
Howard is beautifully situated in this romantic scenery. A
long but most charming drive must now be made to Glen-
malure, a wild mountain glen, affording some of the very
finest views in Wicklow. Here in 1798 were perpetrated

THE VALE OF GLENDALOUQH.

many deeds of bloodshed. Before the construction of the
great Military Road this was the only one of the great passes
by which the recesses of the Wicklow Mountains could be
penetrated. The others, Sally Gap (see trip viii.) and Wick-
low Gap, were impracticable. This district is a glorious

8. KEVIN'3 KITCHEN AND HOUND TOWER, GLENDALOUGI1.

one for the pedestrian, who will strike across the hills for
Glendalough, having essayed his climbing powers perhaps en
Lugnaquilla {pronounce Lugna-kul-ya]. The car, however,
must retrace its course somewhat, and another drive through
beautiful scenery brings us to the Seven Churches, or

Glendalough. If the visitor cannot stay over night
here the Glenmalure portion of the trip must be omitted, but
the loss in point of picturesque scenery will be very great.
Glendalough can be approached directly from Rathdrum, and
in case of need, the late train will take one home to Dublin on
the same evening ; but the hotel accommodation at Glenda-
lough is so excellent, and the tariff so moderate, that we
strongly recommend a stay of at least one night in the valley of
the Seven Churches. The best general view is to be obtained
from the high ground facing the Royal Hotel, and the visitor
ought not to allow any consideration to prevent his making
the small climb required to enjoy so superb a coup deceit.
Of course, the Churches will be visited; and the many
delicious peeps along the Upper Lake must be seen to be
understood. Polanass is a fine fall ; and S. Kevin's Bed will,
naturally, be entered. A night spent at Glendalough will
enable the tourist to walk up to Lough Nahana^an, and
to see the bleak Wicklow Gap, from which a road leads
direct to Poulaphiica and Blessington.

GENERAL REMARKS.

IT must not be supposed that the trips mentioned
exhaust the possibilities of Wicklow or of Dublin, but
they are the least that one should do who wishes to say
that he has seen something of their varied beauties. The
present book has no pretentions to be a Guide to
the county, and can, therefore, not afford space for more
extended suggestions. On almost all of these trips, as inns
are few and far between, the visitor will act wisely in bringing
luncheon with him.

Larger excursions in Ireland are so numerous, that we
could not here attempt to give even an outline of the more
famous. The Giant's Causeway, Killarney, Glengarriff,
and a host of other exquisite spots will entice the visitor

to spend many a long holiday in Erin's Isle. We need add
but one picture of a sight which can be seen only in
Ireland the giant reflecting telescope of Lord Rosse at
Parsonstown an instrument of great interest to scientific
men, and unique in itself.

LORD ROSSE'S TELESCOPE.

CHAPTER VIII.
Books, Views and Maps.

L-BQQKS,

*HE following is not an exhaustive list
of books on Dublin, but gives the
chief Guides which have previously
appeared, and some books, pamphlets,
&c., from which fuller information
can be obtained on the subjects
treated in the " DICTIONARY."
Several of the books named contain
useful bibliographies.
Some of the early "Tours "in Ireland give very good
descriptions of Dublin and its neighbourhood ; later an evi-
dence of "book-stealing" rather than " book-making " is
apparent, and passage after passage is transcribed (without
acknowledgment) so literally, that nothing but the relative
dates can decide priority. Some stilted sentences and stupid
mistakes which have been thus perpetuated are mentioned
in the " DICTIONARY."

A great number of the Guide books ran through many
editions, e.g., " Picture of Dublin," and " New Picture of
Dublin." Additional plates were sometimes added, but the
old were still retained, so that Petrie's beautiful plates which
in the large paper editions of Wright's Guide and Tours
are so brilliant, in the late editions of the " New Picture "
are worn so flat as to be hardly recognisable.

The letterpress, although re-set, was seldom kept up to
date.

Image of Ireland. Plates. Derrick ... .. ... 1581

Description of Dublin. E.Lloyd ... ... ... 1732

History and Antiquities of City of Dublin. Walter Harris.

Plates. Dub. ... ... ... ... ... 1766

Philosophical Survey of the South of Ireland. Campbell (?)

Dub. ... ... ... ... ... ... I77&

Pool and Cash's Dublin. Plates ... ... ... 1779

A. Young's Tour in Ireland. Dub. ... ... ... 1780

The Dublin Guide. R. Lewis. Dub. ... ... ... 1787

Transactions Royal Irish Academy. Plates ... 1787 et. seq.

View of Ancient and Modern Dublin. Plates. Ferrar. Dub, 1796-

Proceedings of Wide Street Commissioners .. ... 1802

Stranger in Ireland. Sir John Carr. Plates. Lond. ... 1805

" My Pocket-book " (burlesque on above)

Descriptive Account of Dublin, N. Jefferys ... ... 1810-

Picture of Dublin. Plates. I, Ed. Dub, ... ... 1811

Letter from Trustees for Building S. George's Church. Dub. 1813

Guide to Dublin. W. Gregory ... ... . . ... 1815

History of the City of Dublin. 2 vols. Plates. Warburton,

Whitelaw, Walsh. Lond. ... ... 1818

Excursions Through Ireland. Thomas Cromwell. Plates ... 1818

S. Patrick's Cathedral. W. M. Mason. Plates ... ... 1820

Historical Guide to Dublin. G. N. Wright. Plates ... 1821

A Picture of Dublin. J. J. M'Gregor. Plates ... ... 1821

Wright's Tours in Ireland (3). Plates ... ... ... 1823-6

Beauties of Ireland. Brewer. Plates. Dub. ... ... 1825

Ireland Illustrated. Plates by Petrie, &c. G.N.Wright. Lond. 1831

Dublin Penny Journal. Plates... ,.. ... ... 1832

Irish Penny Magazine. Plates ... ... ... ... 1833

History of Co. Dublin. D'Alton. Dub.... ... ... 1838

Transactions, Royal Society of Antiquaries of Ireland (and its

predecessors). Plates. ... ... ... 1841 et seq.

Pictorial Guide Through Dublin. Whittock ... ... 1845

Dublin Supplement to Illustrated London News. ... June 6th, 1846

New City Pictorial Directory. (Elevation of Principal Streets.)

Dub. ... ... ... ... ... ... 1850

Irish Tourist's Illustrated Handbook. London ... ... 1852

Frazer's Handbook to Dublin. Maps ... ... ... 1853

History of Dublin. J. T. Gilbert ... ... ... 1854-9

Heffernan's Handbook of Dublin. Cuts. Dub. ... ... 1861

The Irish Reporter ... ... ... ... ... 1856

The Dublin Builder ... ... ... ... ... 1859-62

The Irish Builder ... ... ... ... i863etseq.

Strangers' Guide to Dublin. Dub. ... ... ... 1864

History of Viceroys of Ireland. J.T.Gilbert. Dub. ... 1865

Memorial Services in Connection with Mary's Abbey. Dub. 1865

History of College of Physicians. T. W. Belcher. Dub. ... 1866

Reports on Christ Church Cathedral. G. E. Street... 1868, 71, 82

Christ Church Cathedral. Rev. Ed. Seymour. Dub. ... 1869

Irish Names of Places. Joyce... ... ... ... 1869

Historic Documents. J. T. Gilbert ... ... ... 1870

History and Antiquities of Dublin. T.D.Sullivan ... 1875
Whammond's Illustrated Guide to Dublin and Wicklow. Dub. 1875

Re-opening of Christ Church. Dub. ... ... ... 1878

Christ Church Restoration. Illustrated ... ... ... 1878

Restoration of Christ Church Cathedral. M'Vittie Dub.... 1878

British Association Guide to County Dublin. M'Alister and

M'Nab. Dub 1878

The Improvement of the Bar of Dublin Harbour by Artificial

Scour. J.P.Griffith. ... ... ... ... 1879

Guide Through Glasnevin Cemetery. Cuts. Dub. ... 1879

Christ Church Cathedral. T, Drew. Proceedings R.I.A. ... 1882

Guide to Dublin Charities. (3 parts in one vol.) Miss

Barrett. Dub. ... ... ... ... ... 1884

Street as a Restorer. T. Drew. Dub. Univer. Review. June 1886

History Royal College of Surgeons. Sir C. Cameron. Dublin 1 886

S. Audoen's Church. Rev. C. T. M'Cready. Dublin ... 1887
Historical Handbook to S. Patrick's Cathedral. Canon

Leeper. Ed. II. Cuts. Dub. ... ... ... 1887

Explorations at S. Mary's Abbey. Plates ... ... 1887

Old Dublin. W. F. Wakeman, Evening Telegraph Reprints 1887-91

Fingal and its Churches. R. Walsh. Cuts ... ... 1888

The Port of Dublin. J.P.Griffith .. ... ... 1888

Wakeman's Guide to Ireland. Cuts. Fifth Ed. Dub. ... 1888

Ward's Ireland. Maps. Lond. ... ... ... 1888

Meath Hospital. L. H. Ormsby. Dub. ... ... 1888

Calendar of Ancient Records. J.T.Gilbert ... 1889 et seq.

S. Werburgh's, Rev. S. C. Hughes. Dub. ... ... 1889

Reports of Society for Preservation of Memorials of the Dead.

Cuts. Dub. ... ... ... ... iSgoetseq

Memorable Dublin Houses. Wilmot Harrison. Cuts. Dub. 1890

History of Dublin University. J. W. Stubbs. Cuts. Dub.... 1890-2

Handbook to Bank of Ireland. Dub. ... ... ... 1891

S. Patrick's Cathedral. T. Drew. Proceedings R.S.A.I. ... 1891

Guide to Dublin for Association of Chambers of Commerce of

the United Kingdom. Dub. ... ... ... 1891

S. Michan's Church. R. Walsh. Dub. ... ... ... 1891

Rotunda Hospital. S. F. Adair. Dub. ... ... ... 1892

Here and There through Ireland. Cuts. Dub. ... ... 1892

History of R. C. Church of S. Michan's. Dub. ... ... 1892

Trinity College ; Tercentenary Volume. Dub. Plates .. 1892

Trinity College Pictorial. Dub. Plates... ... ... 1892

Stratton's Dublin, &c. Plates. Lond. ... ... ... 1892

Street Names Dated and Explained. Rev. C. T. M'Cready.

(Bibliography, &c.). Dub. ... ... ... ... 1892

Royal Hospital : Childers and Stewart. Cuts. Dub. ... 1892

Guide to Howth. Plates. C. T. M'Cready, R.S. of Antiq. of I. 1893

Female Orphan House. Rev. D. Cooke. Dub. ... ... 1893

S. Patrick's Cathedral : The Builder ... ... ... 1894

Christ Church Cathedral : The Builder ... ... ... 1894

Rambles on the Irish Coast. W. II. Baily. Dub.... ... n.d.

Articles in Lady of the House by Etta Catterson Smith.

Illustrated.

Black's Picturesque Tourist of Ireland.

Ward & Lock's Guide to Dublin. Lond.... ... .. n.d.

The Annals of Dublin in the Dublin Directory.

II-VIEWS.

HE beauty of the Renaissance buildings erected in
Dublin in the latter half of the i8th century and the
early years of the igih led to many views of Dublin
being produced. Sometimes the engravings were issued in
black and white, sometimes after printing they were washed
in with colours. It is only possible here to mention some
of the chief views.

It must be remembered that sometimes old plates were
found and re-used, so that copies from the same plate may
have widely different dates ; and that the old plates were
sometimes copied by publishers in order to save having
new drawings made.

Tudor's Six Views of Dublin (named both in English and
in French) were published, 1754. Some copies were plain,
some were coloured. They were :

1. Prospect of Custom House and Essex Bridge.

2. Prospect of the Parliamentary House in College Green.

3. A Prospect of the Library of T.C.D.

4. Upper Castle Yard.

5. Barracks of Dublin from St. James' Churchyard.

6. Prospect of City of Dublin from MagazineHill.

Malton's Views of Dublin (24 plates, 16^ x 12) were
issued 1791-97. They were issued in six numbers (and
afterwards in a single volume) with explanatory letterpress,
and can often be bought. A few sets were issued unbound,
and coloured by hand. We reproduce the view of the
TholseL

During the last ten years of the i8th century a large
number of general views of Dublin, taken from various
directions, were issued.

Malton also did a large drawings of Trinity College seen
through the pillars of the Parliament House (26 x 20).

Taylor issued nine coloured plates for his proposed
History of the University, 1818-20.

Brocas' Views of the City are the next in importance after
Malton's ; there are twelve plates, 16 x 10, coloured, issued
1818-29.

Several Panoramic Views of Dublin have been pub-
lished :

From below the Custom House, 24 x 17, coloured, Circ. 1820

Bird's-eye view, Illustrated London News, June 6th ... 1846

From over Royal Hospital, coloured lithograph, 18 x 28, Joseph

Lewis 1862

Views of different buildings, &c., have appeared round the
following maps :

Brooking's Map (with panorama of city) ... ... 1728

Royal Map ... ... ... ... ... ... 1821

Heffernan's Maps ... ... ... ... 1861 and 1868

A great many interesting views of Dublin appear as
Illustrations in books.

The Gentleman's Magazine and other magazines contain
many pictures of Dublin, some being of buildings which
have now disappeared.

Travels in Dublin and Ireland often contain interesting
views.

Petrie's plates, done for "Cromwell's Tour," include
beautiful and accurate views of most of the fine buildings ot
Dublin.

Pool and Cash's Dublin contains accurate drawings of the
chief buildings, 1780.

Whitelaw and Walsh's History has good plates and
M'Gregor's hand-book to Dublin, 1821, contain good views
Wright's hand-book contains Petrie's plates, 1821. These
plates were used by subsequent guide-books until quite
worn out.

Mason's St. Patrick has fine views, which were also issued
as separate plates, 1820.

A great many views of new buildings and copies of old
prints have appeared in the Irish Builder.

III-MAPS.

HE following are some of the chief extant maps of
Dublin. The older ones have been reproduced
(generally inaccurately) in many books :

Speed's Map (we give a copy from the original) ... ... 1610

Brooking's Map (with views) ... ... ... ... 1728

Rocque's Map ... ... ... ... ... 1756

Maps in the Directories from ... ... ... ... 1773

Royal Map (with views) ... ... ... ... 1821

Heffernan's Maps (with views) ... ... ... 1861 and 1868

Ordnance Survey. ... ... ... .. 1837 et seq.

Various publishers issue maps of Dublin and the neighbour-
hood, but too often they are not kept up to date.

END OF PART I.

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THE

DICTIONARY OF DUBLIN

PART II.

THE

DICTIONARY OF DUBLIN-

Abattoir. (Map D.) The
Abattoir opened in 1882 was de-
signed by Park Neville. It stands
on ten acres of ground, immedi-
ately outside the North Circular-
road, by which it is divided from
the Cattle Market, a connecting
tunnel passing underneath. As it
is outside the city boundary the
Corporation cannot compel but-
chers to use it, so for some years
it was carried on at a loss, and
slaughter houses are still scattered
through the city.

Abbey of S. Mary, Ruins
Of. The ruins of the abbey of
S. Mary lie between Capel-street
and Upper Arran-street, and can
be reached from Sackville-street
through Abbey-street and Mary's-
abbey. They are so hidden
away in a crowded portion
of the city, that it requires some
little trouble to discover them,
and indeed so defaced and over-
built are they that only those
interested in architecture will
consider them worthy of a visit ;
the time may come when an open
space will be made, and the
foundations of the abbey revealed,
and then the graceful chapter-
house will be an object for general
admiration.

The abbey of S. Mary was
built on the north bank of the
Liffey, within sight of the ancient
city, and its walled-in precincts
stretched from the present Capel-
street to beyond the site of the
Four Courts. It was founded
for Benedictine monks, but in
1139 was transferred to Cister-
cians. The early list of abbots is
imperfect, but a complete list is
preserved of those from 1132-
1573, when it had to surrender
its immense riches to Henry VIII.
After its dissolution, it was used
as a quarry, and the ill-fated
Essex-bridge of 1676 was built
with its stones.

The only part in fair preserva-
tion is the chapter-house, which
dates from the re-building after
the fire of 1304 ; it is a beautiful
Gothic building, measuring 47 by
23 feet, and has a groined roof
with good mouldings, and some
interesting windows, but its ap-
pearance is spoiled by a modern
floor, some seven feet from the
ground, which divides the build-
ing into a low store covered by
the groined roof, and a cellar.

It was in this chapter-house in
1534 that Lord Thomas Fitz-
gerald (" Silken Thomas "), on

Note. SMALL CAPITALS are used to refer the reader to other articles in Part II.

104

the false report of his father's
irrest in London, threw off the
Lord Deputy attire which he wore
during his father's absence, re-
vealing the armour beneath, and,
drawing his sword, renounced
allegiance to the English king,
and commenced the disastrous
rebellion which led to his execu-
tion in the following year.

Recent excavations have re-
vealed various portions of the
building and discovered numerous
tiles. The results have been
printed in an interesting mono-
graph.

Academy of Medicine in
Ireland, Royal. The Aca-
demy of Medicine was founded in
1882 by the union of four existing
societies : (i) the Medical Society,
which was remodelled in 1864
from the Association of Members
of the College of Physicians,
founded in 1816 ; (2) the Surgical
Society,, 1832 ; (3) the Patho-
logical Society, 1838 ; (4) the
Obstetrical Society. 1838. Sec-
tions corresponding to each
society were formed, and sections
of anatomy and of state medicine
have since been added. The
prefix "Royal "was obtained in
1887. The Academy consists of
fellows, members, and associates,
and meets on Friday evenings,
alternately at the Colleges of
Physicians and Surgeons. An
annual volume of transactions is
published.

Academy of Music, The
Royal Irish (Map B.)
(founded 1856, incorporated 1889),
stands in Westland-row, and has
a very unpretentious exterior.
Students are trained in every
branch of musical study ; but it is
in instrumental music in particular
that the Academy excels, and
really first class professors of the
various instruments are secured

by the Council of the Academy,
to the great benefit of its classes
and indirectly to the profit of
musical culture in Dublin. The
Academy is governed by a
Council.

Full information as to the
valuable Scholarships and Prizes
connected with it may be had
from the Secretary, 36 Westland-
row.

Academy, Royal Irish (in-
corporated 1786) Dawson-st. (Map
A.) Beginning with the year 1683.
numerous attempts were made to
establish in Dublin a Society on
the lines of the Royal Society of
London ; but it was not until 1 786
that a patent was granted to the
Royal Irish Academy "to promote
the study of polite literature,
science and antiquities."

The Academy was really the
combination of two societies,
which consisted in the main
of Fellows of Trinity, and which
under the names "ThePalaeo-
sophers" and "TheNeosophers,"
had been started to investigate
ancient and modern knowledge.
It occupied a house oppo-
site to the Provost's House in
Grafton-street, and was not re-
moved to its present quarters in
Dawson-street until 1852. The
Academy contains a vast store of
literary treasures, including such
MSS. in the Irish language as the
"The Annals of the Four
Masters," " The Speckled Book
of McEgan," and many others
of priceless value. There is an
excellent Library for the use of
members, and all the current
literature connected with the
objects of the Academy may be
found on the tables of the Read-
ing-room. The Museum of the
Academy was transferred in 1891
to the care of the Science and Art
Department, and deposited in the

105

new Museum in Kildare-street,
partly owing to want of ade-
quate accommodation in the
Academy's premises and partly
with the laudable intention of
allowing so unique a collection of
Irish works of art to be displayed
in the National Museum, where a
vastly larger number of visitors
would have the opportunity of in-
specting it. The Celtic collection
is second to none in the world,
and shows the great skill attained
by our ancestors in the arts, when
neighbouring nations had scarcely
emerged from their barbarism.
Among the more famous exhibits,
are the Ardagh Chalice, the Cross
of Cong, and St. Patrick's Bell
with its shrine or cover a superb
example of the early Irish gold-
smith's art. (MUSEUM.)

The Academy is governed by
a President and Council of twenty-
one members. Members are
elected by ballot ; annual sub-
scription, 2 2s. There are at
present 320 members ; but the
popularity of the Academy has
been somewhat decreased by the
way in which, of late years,
science has overshadowed both
polite literature and antiquities in
its proceedings.

Academy, The Royal
Hibernian (Map C.), was
incorporated in 1821, and its
present home in Lower Abbey-
street was erected in 1824, by
FRANCIS JOHNSTON, first Presi-
dent of the Academy, and one of
Dublin's leading architects, at his
own sole cost. The building con-
sists of three storeys, the first
being supported by Doric columns,
between which a deep recess
leads to the Entrance Hall.
Over the entrance may be seen
the head of Palladio representing
architecture, while above the
windows on the right and left are

the heads of Michael Angelo and
Raphael, emblematic respectively
of sculpture and of painting. The
first exhibition room,4O x 20 feet,
is connected by an arch with a
larger room, which measures 40 x
50 feet, and is excellently lighted
from above. To the right is an-
other smaller and ill-lighted room,
devoted usually to the exhibition
of architectural designs, &c. In
the upper rooms are many valu-
able paintings, and a good library
of works connected with Art.
Students are admitted to the
Schools of the Academy, and can
attend the lectures of its Pro-
fessors. A fine atelier has been
added by Sir T. A. Jones, the late
President. The smallness of the
Government grant renders it im-
possble for the Academy to assist
young artists as it would wish,
and many of the most brilliant
of our younger men are un-
fortunately compelled to seek
elsewhere for that patronage which
the poverty of their native land
denies them at home. The Annual
Exhibition of the Academy lasts
from March to May, and as there
are on view many works of art,
lent by the leading English and
Continental Artists, in addition to
the excellent works in painting,
sculpture, and architecture of our
Irish Academicians, the visitor to
Dublin should on no account
neglect to see this exhibition. An
Art Union Drawing is held
annually during the Exhibition.
Admission, is. ; Sunday after-
noons, 2d. For some time before
the close of the Exhibition it is
opened every evening at a charge
of id.

Aid borough House, which
is at present used as a Commis-
sariat Depot, has had a long and
interesting history The building
was erected (1797) by Lord Aid-

106

borough at a cost 01^40,000, and
although badly situated for a
nobleman's town house, it afforded
the best specimen of architecture

and two wings. The position
proved to be too damp, and Lady
Aldborough refused to live in it.
It was long left untenanted,

to be found in a private building
in Dublin. The building consists
of a lofty central square, with
handsome cornice and balustrade

but in 1813 the building
was re-named Luxembourg, and
was purchased from Lord Aid-
borough by a committee of gentle-

107

men, to be converted into a large
public school on the system of
Dr. Von Feinaigle (EDUCATION).
The undraped statues, a large
number of which adorned the
gardens, were deemed unsuitable
when the building was converted
into a school and were therefore
banished to an upper chamber,
which became a sort of Bluebeard's
Room ! They were afterwards
found in 1843, when the building
was taken over by the Govern-
ment, and were then sold. The
stucco work in this, as in very
many of our old Dublin houses, is
noticeably fine.

Alexandra College. (Map
A. ) The requirements of Higher
Education of Women find ade-
quate recognition in the Alex-
andra College (founded 1866).
It corresponds in Ireland to Girton
or Newnham in England. The
students compete at the Royal
University Examinations, and on
many occasions have carried away
Scholarships and other high dis-
tinctions from the sterner sex. A
movement is on foot to induce the
Governing Body of old T.C.D.
to open its Schools and Degrees
to women ; for as yet Dublin
University has contented itself
with Special Examinations for
women without permitting them
either to attend the Lectures or
pass to the Degrees of the
University. Alexandra College
publishes its own Magazine, giving
an account of the various College
Societies and Clubs which cer-
tainly provide a most extensive
training, physical as well as
mental. The College possesses
a large gymnasium excellently
fitted, and its Lawn Tennis and
Hockey Clubs are probably quite
as important as its Professorial
Lectures, securing that our wo-
men, mothers of the coming

garten, until their final appear
as "fair girl graduates'' in

generation, shall hand down to
their children the corpus sanum
as well as the mens sana.

Alexandra School (Map A.)
was founded in 1873, by the Coun-
cil of Alexandra College, and has
lately (1890) removed from 73 S.
Stephen's-green to its magnificent
new buildings in Earlsfort-terrace.
This addition to the already ex-
tensive buildings of the College
was designed by T. Drew, and
is probably the most convenient
and best equipped girls' school
in Ireland. Its pupils number
300, and are notably successful
in the Intermediate Examina-
tions. At the age of 16 the girls
pass from the School to the
College, and thus within the same
sheltering walls they receive their
entire education from the Kinder-
rance

gr graduates'' in the
Royal University, which is exactly
opposite to Alexandra College.

All Saints' Church,
Grangegorman. The
Church of All Saints, its school and
glebehouse are prettily situated
amidst trees on the Phibsborough-
road, not far from the Phoenix
Park and Glasnevin tram-lines.
The parish was formed front those
of S. Paul and S. Michan as a
perpetual curacy under the
appointment of the Vicars Choral
of Christ Church Cathedral (of
which the district was a grange or
farm) who were Rectors. The
Dean and Chapter had appointed
a curate to the district as far back
as 1730. The first curate to the
parish received a stipend of ,10
per annum, and was also chaplain
to the House of Industry and
General Hospital.

The church was built in 1828
and the glebehouse in the follow-
ing year. The old church
(altered) forms the present nave.

108

The chancel was added in 1856,
and the north aisle in 1867. In
1889 a baptistery and memorial
window were erected in memory
of the late Incumbent, the Rev.
Dr. Maturin, and in 1892 a new
organ was erected in the north
aisle. The pulpit also is a
memorial.

The interior is somewhat spoiled
by the large unsymmetrical north
aisle, but the exigencies of
space left no other method of
enlargement possible. The chan-
cel is small but beautifully decora-
led, and the western baptistery is
well designed, and its contained
window a beautiful example of
modern glass There is a sur-
pliced choir, and the musical
portions of the service are well
rendered .

Alphonsus, Chapel of, S.
The chapel of the Convent of S.
Alphonsus, Clonliffe (1873), is a
beautiful example of the late
Norman style. It was designed by
Ashlin, and is built of granite.
The interior is finely decorated
and contains some modern
"Bossi" work marble inlaid
with coloured cements.

Amusements. Dublin is not
regarded by the stranger as a gay
city when compared with other
capitals. The climate is against
open air festivities, and as a
natural result our gaieties are for
the most part indoors and private,
balls, musicals, &c. The SEASON
may be considered to begin in
February, and it closes always
with the great St. Patrick's Ball
on the day of our Patron Saint
(March 17). There is not, how-
ever, any such marked difference
between the season and the non-
season as there is in London. It
may be that we have not such a
round of gaieties in the season, but
no such appalling emptiness in

our fashionable quarters follows
its close. During the summer all
Dublin migrate? to the sea ; and
most of the bathing places within
a radius of 15 miles are lesser
Dublins from June to the end
of September. (ANGLING, ATH-
LETICS, CRICKET, FOOTBALL,
GOLF, &c.)

Andrew,CatholicChurch
Of S. (Map B.) was designed by
James Boulger, and erected 1832-7
at a cost of ^13,000. It is in the
form of a cross with a cupola over
the intersection, and is 160 feet
long, 50 feet high, and 50 feet
wide ; the width across the tran-
septs is 150 feet. The Doric
portico is heavy and graceless, and
is Distyle-in-antis two columns
between antse or square pillars.
The entablature is surmounted by
a pediment on the apex of which
is a fine figure of S. Andrew.
The great altar consists of four
massive pillars of Scagliolo sur-
mounted by a pediment ; the
tabernacle and sarcophagus are of
the most costly Italian marble.
Over the tabernacle is a Trans-
figuration carved by Hogan.

Andrew, Church of S. (Map
A.) S. Andrew's Church used to
stand at the south of Dame-street
where the Munster and Leinster
Bank now is, and Palace-street
crosses the old churchyard. In 1670
a church was built on the present
site, a hill close to Hoggen-green,
on which an old stone circle stood.
In 1793-1807 the " Round
Church " (really an ellipse 80 X
60) was built, it was a classical
building of peculiar design ; the
oak from which its ornaments
were carved was taken from the
roof of the old College chapel, and
from the centre of its ceiling hung
the gilt lustre of carved wood,
formerly in the House of Com-
mons and now in the Examina-

109

tionHall, T.C.D. The "Round
Church" was burned in 1860.

The present church is a hand-
some granite building of early
decorated Gothic design, erected
1862-6. from the design of Messrs.
Lanyon, Lynn, and Lanyon. It
consists of a nave, aisles, chancel,
apse, and a large tower ending in
a lofty spire, standing between the
chancel and north transept. There
is a cloister porch running along
the north aisle, in this the statue
of S. Andrew, which stood over
the door of the " Round Church "
(and which was estimated for by
Edward Smith in 1803, at
113 155., though his receipt for
only ^30 exists), used to stand ;
but people in the street kneeling
to pray before it, it was moved in
1872 to the churchyard at the
south-west corner of the church
where it still stands in a mutilated
condition. When taken down
after the fire of 1860 the statue
was found to be pitted with
bullet marks, a celebrated duellist
living opposite having in the
earlier part of the century used it
as a target. A Parochial Hall
built in granite from the designs
of W. Kaye Parry stands in the
churchyard.

Ann, Church of S. (Map B.),
Dawson-street, facing South Anne-
street. A large oblong church
with heavy galleries, commenced
in 1707. There are numerous
wall tablets and stained glass
windows, two of the latter erected
in 1860 are respectively in memory
of Mrs. Hemans andjoun Knox,
the erection of stained glass
with a figure subject in memory of
the iconoclast, seems peculiar. The
original form was classical, and
designed by Smith. In 1868-9 a
new front of Norman style was
erected from the design of T. N.
Deane. Stones of different colour

are used to give emphasis to the
design which is very effective.
The large centre door has a tower
at either side (that on the north
being unfinished). Above the
door is an open arcade and fine
window. A clergy house stands
to the south and an entrance to
the graveyard to the north.

The Molesworth Hall (1867),
serves as a Parochial Hall. It
was designed by T. N. Deane.

Angling. Dublin anglers are
but ill-furnished with the means
of cultivating the gentle art. Fair
fishing may, however, be obtained
in the river Tolka, and the Swords
river, and within recent years a
lake near Brittas on the Poula-
phuca tram line has been stocked
by The Anglers' Club.

Antient Concert Rooms,
in Great Brunswick-street (Map
B.), (Kings- bridge tram or Hatch-
street tram from Harcourt-street
terminus) provides two small
Halls suitable for concerts and
occasional entertainments. They
are much used for the Rehearsals
of the larger Musical Societies.

Antiquaries (Royal So-
ciety of Antiquaries of
Ireland). (Map A.) This
Society, numbering at present
thirteen hundred members, is the
offspring of the famous Kilkenny
Archaeological Society (founded
in 1849), which for a long series
of years kept alive, almost alone,
interest in the antiquities of Ire-
land. The Society has power to
elect Fellows and Members, and
holds its meetings quarterly in
each of the four provinces in turn.
The published proceedings, form-
ing the Journal of the Society,
are an invaluable store of infor-
mation on all matters of archaeo-
logical research. Offices and
Council Chamber, 7 S. Stephen's-
green, N.

110

Antiquities. The various an-
tiquities which are to be seen in
and about Dublin can be only
briefly mentioned here. Some
receive fuller notice in other
paragraphs. They are generally
marked in Gothic type on the
Ordnance i-inch map.
There are several CROMLECHS.
There are Pillar Stones (Men-
hirs) at Raheen and Glencullen.

Cairns are more numerous,
and are generally called " Giants'
graves. " There are several on the
Dublin Mountains, where also are
remains of some stone circles.
The Pipers' Stones, f-mile
from Blessington, are a good
example.

RATHS or Moats which are
earthen mounds, and generally
called " Forts," are numerous.
In some, internal chambers
have been found, and, in most,
bones. Rathmines, Rathgar,
and Rathfarnham all derive
their names from Raths which
have been removed.

There are "Stone Chairs'"
near Rathfarnham and at Kil-
liney ; they are generally called
Druids' Chairs.

There are some forty stone
Chantries or small Churches in
the neighbourhood of Dublin,
all of which are very old ; they
generally consist of a nave and
chancel, with a semicircular sepa-
rating arch ; the jambs of the
narrow west door may slant in,
and there is usually a narrow semi-
circular or triangular-headed win-
dow over the altar, and one or
more windows in the south wall.
Killiney (possibly fifth century),
S. Nessan's Ireland's Eye, and
S. Fintan's Howth. may be visited
as examples. S. Nessan's has the
remains of a circular cloigceac
or belfry over the chancel.
ROUND TOWERS can be seen at

SWORDS, Lusk, and Clondalkin,
and several CROSSES and Holy
Wells are within reach. The
Holy Well at S. Doulough's is
one of the best examples.

The ruins of HOWTH Church
(1235) are a good example of early
Gothic ; the three-arched belfry in
the west gable is an Irish char
acteristic. An altar-tomb to the
2Oth Baron Howth and his wife
(1589) should be noticed. Close
to the church is an interesting
building named the " Abbot's
House," or "College."

IN THE LIBERTIES.

The Castles of the PALE are
the chief mediaeval remains.

The city itself has few anti-
quities beyond its Churches, and
these are dealt with under the
head of ARCHITECTURE. A few
fragments of CITY WALLS exist,
but hardly any Houses date before
the eighteenth century. The best
examples of the oldest houses are
in the district to the S.W. of S.
Patrick's Cathedral, and in the
streets off South George's-street,
where many of the old gabled
fronts may yet be seen.

The Science and Art MUSEUM
contains the magnificent collection

Ill

of Irish Antiquities made by the
ROYAL IRISH ACADEMY and
Manuscripts and other antiquities
are preserved in the Library of
Trinity College.

Apothecaries' Hall. (Map
C.) The Governor and Com-
pany of the Apothecaries' Hall of
Ireland were incorporated in 1 791.
They have a large building in
Mary-street in which they deal in
drugs. They used to confer the
L.A.H. Diploma, which was a
medical qualification, and after-
wards had a conjoint examination
with the ROYAL COLLEGE OF
SURGEONS.

Aq uatics YACHTING.

Archbishops. Dublin has the
honour of being the seat of two
Archbishoprics. The Palace of
the Protestant Archbishop is in
S. Stephen's-green : that of the
Roman Catholic Primate is at
DRUMCONDRA. They both bear
the title " Primate of Ireland."

Architecture. Whatever value
the street architecture of Dublin
has is chiefly derived from width
of thoroughfare, and the beauty
of a few of the public buildings
and places of business ; the em-
banked river and frequent bridges
are also effective. The appear-
ance of many business streets is
spoiled by fa9ades, often meri-
torious in themselves, but ill-
suited to chose about them, and
this is worse when the skyline is
broken by irregular parapets ; of
late years there has been a revival
of gables ; but still incongruous,
or, what is, if possible, worse,
badly matching f^ades are
seen in juxtaposition, and even
where an effort has been made to
secure harmony, as in Grafton-
street and Upper Baggot-street,
the result has not been happy,
partly owing to the ugly com-
bination of red brick and lime

stone, and partly to a want of
attention to mutual relation.

In the older residential neigh-
bourhoods, gabled houses that
take us back to the time of Queen
Anne, are still fairly numerous,
and a few more markedly Dutch
gables remain, but the older
'CAGEWORK" houses are en-
tirely extinct.

Most of the city residences are

OLD DUTCH GABLED HOUSE.

of late eighteenth or early nine-
teenth century date, and are so
severely ugly with horizontal
parapets and rectangular windows
devoid of ornament, that the
classical doorways look like after-
thoughts. Some, however, have
a granite storey and classical
cornice. In the suburbs, espe-

112

BLACK PITS.

daily at the South side, the
modern houses present more
variety.

The chief public buildings are
in the Classical Renaissance,
dating from the end of the eigh-
teenth and commencement of the
nineteenth century', and are very
effective. The most important
are the BANK OF IRELAND, CUS-
TOM HOUSE, FOUR COURTS,
CITY HALL, TRINITY COL-
LEGE and KING'S INNS. The
group of buildings about
LEINSTER HOUSE repre-
sents the latter half of the
nineteenth century, and
though effective, has not the
grandeur of the earlier de-
signs ; the interiors of the
latest additions are, how-
ever, striking and suitable.

Following the example of
the public buildings, most
of the large banks and
insurance offices are of
Renaissance character, but
the style has been adapted
with more freedom of treat-
ment.

The cathedrals are in-

teresting examples of early
Gothic, and the transitional
Norman work in Christ Church
is of great beauty ; but other
traces of old church architec-
ture are few. Neglect has done
for Dublin what fire did for
London, and most of the old
churches have been destroyed
and ugly rectangles built in their
place. At the commencement
of this century the only church
spire was S. WERBURGH'S, and
that was soon taken down as
being unsafe. During this cen-
tury a number of places of
worship for different denomina-
tions have been built, and al-
though some of the earlier
attempts in the Gothic style are
grotesque failures, most of those
erected within the last thirty
years are of good design, and
several have graceful spires.

The following table gives
the various periods of architec-
ture, the chief examples be-
ing noted it will be observed
how few original examples re-
main :

WEAVER S SQUARE.

113

TABLE OF CHURCH ARCHITECTURE
IN DUBLIN.

Norman,

Christ Church Cathedral Transepts.
S. Audoen Door and Font.
MODERN EXAMPLES.

S. Alphonsus Convent Chapel.
S. Ann, Fa9ade.
Sandymount Church.

s. JOHN'S CHURCH, SANDYMOUNT.

Early English Gothic.

Christ Church Cathedral. N. Side

Nave.

S. Patrick's Cathedral.
S. Mary's Abbey Chapter House.

MODERN EXAMPLES.
Christ Church, Leeson-park.
S. Andrew, Donny brook.
S. Bartholomew.
S. Kevin, S. Circular-road.
S. Laurence O'Toole.

Decorated Gothic

S. Audoen (parts of).

MODERN EXAMPLES.
Rutland-square, Presbyterian.
S. Joseph, Berkeley-road.
S. Kevin, Harrington-street.
S. Peter, Phibsboro'.
S. Saviour, Dominick-street.

Perpendicular Gothic.

S. Audoen, Portlester Chapel.

MODERN EXAMPLES.

Castle Chapel.
Ormond-quay, Presbyterian.
Priory, S. Dominick.
S. Barnabas, North-lotts.
S. Michans, Halston-street.

Renaissance.

S. Catherine (1710).

S. Thomas (1758).

S. George ^1813).

S. Mary Cathedral (1816).

-S. Stephen (1825).

S. Francis Xavier (1832).

S. Andrew, Westland-row (1837).

S. Paul, Arran-quay (1835).

S. Mary, Rathmines.

Area and Valuation. The

area of the City of Dublin within
the Municipal boundary is 3,733
acres, and is almost entirely sur-
rounded by the Circular-roads,
with an extent of nine miles.
The Parliamentary boundaries
give 5,509 acres.

The complete corporate income
from rents, customs, &c., amounts
to about ,352,000.
Army and Navy Stores,
Junior, D'Olier-st. (Map B.)
rather a new institution (1883) in
Dublin, seems to have taken
permanent place. Its members
are of two classes, Shareholders
and Ticketholders, but, presumably
with a view to increasing the
clientele, not more than five shares
are allotted to one applicant.
Tickets costing 2s. 6d. may be
taken out at any date and are avail-
able for one year. The Stores have
I

114

very decidedly brought down the
prices of the Dublin shops, and are
likely to be even more satisfactory
when the increased accommodation
enables them to stock articles
which have at present to be or-
dered from their London house
with serious delays to the pur-
chaser.

Artane Industrial
School. The Artane Industrial
School is situated some three
miles to the north of the city on
the Ma!ahide-road, on the site
where Alan, Archbishop of
Dublin, was murdered, 1534. It
is managed by the Christian
Brothers, who founded it in
1870. It contains 800 boys, and
is the most remarkable Industrial
School in Europe. There is
a fine range of buildings with
workshops, and the boys re-
ceive instruction in carpentry,
engine-fitting, harness-making,
painting, tailoring, baking, &c.,
even hairdressing is taught. The
lads have a capital band, and it is
a pleasant sight to see them
marching after it in companies.
An Infirmary was built in 1892,
and all new-comers are detained
for three weeks under observation
to prevent the introduction of in-
fectious disease.

The Institution is well worthy
of a visit, and the drive to it is
enjoyable.

Artisans' Dwellings. The
Dublin Artisans' Dwellings Com-
pany (Limited) was started in
1876 by some members of the
Dublin Sanitary Association, and
its capital has several times been
increased, so that at present it
stands at ,100,000.

Sixteen sites have already been
built upon. Some of these were
previously cleared by the Cor-
poration, acting under the Public
Health Acts, and were then leased

to the Company. An interesting
feature is that a large proportion
of the buildings erected are small
houses for single families. The
Coombe area was covered with
216 of these, and an ornamental
fountain and shrubs mark the
centre of what was once one of
the most unhealthy districts in
the city.

There are two playgrounds for
children, with swings, &c., close
to the Coombe buildings.

The Earl and Countess of
Meath give prizes each year
for neatness and cleanliness of
rooms, and for window gar-
dening.

Number of single houses, 1,382.

Number of families housed,
1,609.

Number of individuals housed,
7,338.

The Corporation have lately
erected some Artisans' Dwellings
as have the ' ' Guinness Trustees."
Arts Club, Dublin (Map A.), 6
Stephen's - green, was founded
in 1892, for the furtherance
of Music, Painting, and kindred
arts. Its membership embraces
almost all the leading amateur
and professional artists in the
city, and exhibitions of work
are constantly held. The musi-
cal evenings are very popular,
and the social element in the
club is well sustained. There is
an annual Art Union Drawing.
Asylums for Blind BLIND

ASYLUMS.
Asylums for Lunatics

LUNATIC ASYLUMS.
Athletics. Athletic meetings
are naturally very popular in our
city, and the magnificent grounds
of the Royal Dublin Society at
Ball's-bridge are the favourite
locale of these meetings. Facile
princeps in point of attendance

115

come the College Sports, which
although shorn in some measure
of their olden glories, can still
attract to the College Park in one
day a gathering of 15,000 ! They
are held usually in spring, and are
almost the earliest of our out-of-
door functions, so that the flower
of Dublin's beauty dons at them
for the first time its most sum-
mery attire. Lansdowneiroad
grounds also provide a good and
popular track for bicycle
races and other contests,
and it was on this track
that the Irish Champion-
ship Events were always
decided before the open-
ing of BALL'S-BRIDGE.
There is also an excellent
track at Jones's - road,
Drumcondra.

Auctions are naturally
common in town, and
there are many excellent
salerooms, the better de-
voting themselves, as a
rule, to one special line
books, china, &c. It
is now rare enough to
pick up at a sale in a
private house any piece
of old furniture of value,
though even yet such
finds are made. It is
hardly necessary to re-
mind the stranger that
much of the furniture
introduced by some un-
scrupulous auctioneers
into such sales is not part of
the actual furnishing of the
house, and the marvellous "draw-
ingroom suites in vdvet or
rep" are much better avoided.
There is probably here, as else-
where, a ring of "dealers"
who will readily outbid, even with
a risk of loss, the private buyers ;
but as a rule they are good-
humoured fellows enough, and are

often very witly, if not always t< o
polite. The chief auction -rooms
are: I. North's, Grafton Street,
book and miscellaneous, and 2.
Bennett's, china, pictures and
books, 3. Flint's, 4. Hill's, 5. Law-
ler's, all on the north side of the
river Liffey, between O'Connell-
bridge and the Four Courts.
Audoen s Arch. s. Audoen's
Arch, situated to the north of S.
Audoen's Church, is the only

AUDOEN'S ARCH (BEFORE
RESTORATION).

remaining gateway of the old
CITY WALLS, and its construction
dates back to a stirring time. In
1315 Edward Bruce, brother to
King Robert Bruce, landed in the
north of Ii eland and marched
upon Dublin, coming as close as
Castleknock. The Mayor, Robert
Notingham, and citizens pulled
down the Abbey of S. Saviour,
and built a new wall, "mistrusting

116

that the wals that went along both
keies should not have been of
sufficient force to outhold the
enemie. " S. Audoen's Arch is
part of one of the gateways built
in 1315.

S. Audoen's Arch measures 26
feet from the ground to the crown
of the arch, it is 15 feet wide in-
side, and 20 feet deep. On the
western side of the passage is a
stopped-up doorway which may
have been a postern.

Only a few feet of the
tower remain above the
arch, but up to 1760 the
Corporation of Tanners
rented the tower and used
it as their Hall. In 1764
the first number of the
Public Register or Free-
tnatt's Journal appeared ;
it was " Printed by order
of the Committee, at their
Own Printing Office, over
St. Audoen's Arch, near
Cook-street."

In 1880 the Committee
of the Corporation con-
demned the arch as a
nuisance and recommended
its removal, but fortunately
this vandalism was pre-
vented. S. Audoen's
graveyard (which adjoins
the old wall to the west of
the arch) is a public recrea-
tion ground (1894), and
the arch has been restored,
but the tower has not been
rebuilt .

Audoen, Church of S. (Map
A.) S. Audoen's Church, High-
street is the most interesting
ecclesiastical building in Dublin
after the cathedrals. It is named
after a Norman saint (who is also
the patron of S. Ouen at Rouen),
and was built soon after the
English came to Ireland in 1171.

It consists of two parallel aisles,
separated by graceful arches,
some of which are built up. The
present church is the west half of
the north aisle ; the east end is in
ruins, and is called the Portlester
Chapel ; it was built or repaired
by Lord Portlester in the fifteenth
century. This part has been put
in order by the Board of Works ;
it contains a number of monu-
ments, some of wood, and all

PORTLESTER CHAPEL.

sadly defaced. To the south-
west are two hagioscopes and the
remains of frescoes. In the porch
is an altar tomb, with effigies of
Lord Portlester and his wife,
erected in 1455. The church was
for long cut in two by a transverse
screen with windows in it, but the
chancel was used for Celebration

117

8. AUDOENS CHURCH.

until 1773, when a stucco chancel
was made. In 1820-21 the
gallery which occupied the
pointed aisles of the S.
aisle of nave was re-
moved, and the arches
built up. The unused
three - quarters of the
church was then un-
roofed, and four cast-iron
pinnacles added to the
tower. There is a Nor-
man door leading into
the body of the church,
and the original Norman
font is still used. The
tower, rebuilt in 1670,
contains six bells, one
bearing the date 1423.
From the top of the
tower an interesting
view of the old city is
obtained. Some of the
Communion plate dates
from 1624.

The sexton lives near at hand,
and will show visitors over all
parts of the building.

Augustine and John,
Chapel Of SS. in Thomas-
street, is among the finest
ecclesiastical buildings in Dublin.
It was commenced in 1862 from
the designs of Messrs. Pugin and
Ashlin. It consists of a nave with
lofty side aisles and an apsidal
sanctuary (added 1893). A magni-
ficent oblong tower with spire
rises from the "west" bay of
the nave to a height of 160 feet.
The lower part of the tower has
a lofty arched recess containing
the richly carved door and the
great window. The spire ends
in a French double-pointed roof.
The interior also is impressive,
with lofty marble columns on
Aberdeen granite bases, and white
marble reredos ; the glass in the
" west " window is very effective.

Avoca RATHDRUM.

Balbriggan, 22 miles north of
Dublin on the Drogheda line, was
raised by Baron Hamilton in 1780

CHAPEL OF SS. AUGUSTINE AND JOHN.

118

from a mere fishing village to a
industrial centre of considerable
importance by the erection of two
large cotton factories. " Bal-
briggan hosiery " hasaworld-wide
reputation. There is very fair
harbour accommodation and a
small coast traffic.

BaJdoyle (8 miles), a station on
the Howth Branch of the G.N.R.
It has a racecourse which, being
close to town, and generally used
on popular holidays, is a favourite
resort. From Baldoyle there is
a fine walk along the" Velvet
Strand, and so on to MALAHIDE.

Baldungan Castle
SKERRIES.

Balfe, Michael William,
was born on the I5th May, 1808,
in IO Pitt-street (Map B.). The
house is marked by a tablet, and
is easily reached from Grafton-
street by Harry-street, His first
public appearance was at a con-
cert in- 1817, where he played the
violin. A piece of his composi-
tion had been performed before
he \vas seven years old. On the
death of his father, in 1823, he
went to England, and on to the
Continent, but in 1838 returned
to Ireland as a member of an
opera company. He died in
1870. A memorial window has
been erected in the CATHEDRAL
OF S. PATRICK, but the project
of erecting a statue in the city
ended in failure as a comic
paper once expressed it, his words,
"I dreamt I dwelt in marble
- '' were prophetic. The
amount subscribed was ex-
pended on a bust, which is
placed in the NATIONAL GAL-
LERY.

Balrothery, a much decayed
village, about 17^ miles north of
Dublin, has a very fine example
of a square tower, with a round
tower at one corner, not unlike

that at LUSK, distant about five
miles.

Ballast Office (Map B.). The

fine brick building with stone
adornments, at the corner of West-
moreland-street and Aston's-
quay, facing O'Connell Bridge,
is called the Ballast Office. It
was built when the WIDE STREET
COMMISSIONERS made West-
moreland-street ; the south half
was added in 1868.

The Corporation known as the
Ballast Board was first instituted
in 1707 for improving the port
and harbour, and for that pur-
pose powers were vested in the
Lord Mayor, Commons, and
citizens of Dublin. One of these
powers was raising and selling
ballast. In 1786, this body not
being found active enough, the

119

Corporation for Preserving and
Improving the PORT OF DUBLIN
was formed, and their successors,
the Port and Docks Board are
still familiarly termed the Ballast
Board, and their house the Ballast
Office.

The clock in the Westmoreland-
street front and the time ball are
considered the most accurate time
keepers in Dublin ; the latter
used to fall at I p.m. by signal
from Dunsink Observatory, but
now falls at I p.m. Greenunch
time.

Ball'S-bridge is on the Dodder,
and the district is chiefly important
at present, owing to the magni-
ficent buildings of the ROYAL
DUBLIN SOCIETY, in which are
held the various Cattle Shows of
the Society. The grounds are
let by the Society for Military
Tournaments and various athletic
meetings, and the Championships
of Ireland are usually decided
here- The new Girls' School
for Masonic Orphans is also
situated here, as are the offices
of the Pembroke Township.
(Railway Station, Sandymount ;
Tram, Black rock.)

Banks. The banks are among
the handsomest buildings in
the city. The Bank of Ireland,
the Ulster, the Provincial, the
National, and the Munster and
Leinster are of most interest.

The following table gives a list
of the banks, with the address of
the chief office : the figure in
brackets is the number of branches
in the city and suburbs :
Bank of Ireland College-green.
Hibernian Bank College-green

(Si-
Royal Bank of Ireland Foster-
place (6).

National Bank College-green.
Provincial Bank College-street
(I).

Northern Banking Company

Henry-street (3).
Ulster Bank College-green (2).
Munster and Leinster Bank

Dame-street.

Belfast Banking Company (2).
Boyle, Low, Murray & Company.
Guinness. Marion & Company.
The following table gives the

chief bank buildings, date, and name

of architect :

BANK OF IRELAND, College-green,
formerly Parliament House.

Northern Banking Co., Henry-
street, formerly Ball's Bank.

National, 34 College-green, 1845.
William Barnes (London). Al-
tered 1889, Charles Geoghegan.

Royal, 3 Foster-place, 1860. Charles
Geoghegan.

Provincial, 5 College-street, 1868.
W. G. Murray.

Hibernian, 27 College-green, 1871.
W. G. Murray.

Hibernian, 12 and 13 Lower
Sackville-street, built for public-
house, 1872. T. N. Deane. Al-
tered to Bank, 1873. T. Drew.

Munster and Leinster, 7-9 Dame-
street, 1872. T. N. Deane.

Ulster, 32 and 33 College-green,
1891. T. Drew.

Belfast Banking Co., 19 Dame-
street, 1894. W. H. Lynn.

Bank of Ireland (Maps A.
and B. ). The most central, best
situated, and most beautiful build-
ing in Dublin is the Bank of
Ireland in College-green. Up to
1800 this was the Parliament
House, but the legislative union
leaving it unoccupied, and a
project to connect it with Trinity
College by a tunnel under the
street having failed, the Bank
of Ireland purchased it from the
Government in 1802 for ,40,000,
subject to an annual ground rent
of 240. When the building was
rearranged, the Bank was moved
into it from the premises in Mary's-

120

abbey, occupied since the incor-
poration in 1783 of the "Gov-
ernor and Company of the Bank
of Ireland."

The Parliament House was
erected on the site of Chichester
House during 1 729-39, and con-
sisted at first of the grand portico
in College-green. The clever-
ness of a design which could
attain such great beauty with so
little adornment has always ex-
cited admiration, but its author is
unknown, though it has been
attributed to Cassels who de-

BANK OF IRELAND.

signed Leinster House. It was
carried out by Sir Ed. Pearce,
but even at the time he was not
believed to be the real designer.

In 1785 the House of Lords
required more room and a separ-
ate entrance ; so the east wing,
consisting of a noble portico,
connected with the main building
by a screen wall, was erected
from the design of James Gandon.

In 1 792 the House of Commons
felt the need of space, and during
1792-4 the west portico was
added, with a screen wall con-

necting it to the old front. This
screen wall had a colonnade of
pillars in front of it. These ad-
ditions were designed by Robert
Parke.

Since the purchase of the build-
ingfora bank further additions and
alterations have been made, under
the direction of F. JOHNSTON.
New screen walls, ornamented
with Ionic columns, and connect-
ing the east and west porticos
to the front, were built ; the mili-
tary gateway and the large gate-
ways in Westmoreland-street and
Foster-place were
erected ; figures
put over the pedi-
ments, and the
old House of
Commons, Court
of Requests, &c. f
were removed
and the cash office
built in their
place.

The building is
nearly semi-
circular, and
covers i acres.
The principal
front faces Col-
lege-green, and
consists of a
,nd Ionic co-
onnade, 147 ftet
long, occupying three sides of a
court -yard ; the columns are lofty,
and rest on a flight of steps con-
tinued round the courtyard and to
the extremities of the colonnade,
where are the entrances under
two lofty archways. The four
central columns are advanced,
and support a pediment with the
royal arms in the tympanum and a
figure of Hibernia on the apex,
with Fidelity on her right and
Commerce on her left. The royal
arms and figures are the work of
E. Smith. He was paid ^450

grar
lom

121

tor executing the figures ; and being on her right and Liberty on

Flaxman i,iyj, for modelling her left. These figures also are

them. by E. Smith. The use of Corin-

The east front consists of a thian pillars in this portico has

GEORGE III., HOUSE OP LORDS.

large gateway, and, beside it, a
noble portico of six Corinthian
columns, with Fortitude on the
apex of the pediment, Justice

been much criticised. The solu-
tion said to have been given by
the architect at the time of their
execution in answer to a bystander

122

who asked him " What Order are
these columns ? " is " It is a very
substantial Order, for it is the
Order of the House of Lords."

The more probable explanation
is that the portico was made to
harmonise with the opposite
corner of Trinity College.

The entrance to the Plouse of
Lords used to be under this portico,
it is built up, but part of the lamp-
hook remains over the keystone.

The west front consists of an
Ionic portico of four columns sup-
porting a pediment ; and a large
gateway, which contains quarters
for a military guard, and is appro-
priately decorated with a military
trophy cut in stone by J. Kirk.
This gateway is at right angles to
the portico, and forms a termina-
tion to Foster- place. The side
porticos are connected with the
centre by circular screen walls
with rusticated basement and
niches .separated by three-quarter
columns as lofty as those of the
porticos.

The new iron railings were
erected in 1889.

Beneath the grand portico are
two entrances leading to lobbies
out of which the cash office opens.
The old entrance used to be in
the centre and lead into a large
ante-room to the House of Com-
mons, called the Court of Requests
on the site of which part of the
cash office stands. This splendid
room was designed by F. Johnston,
and measures 70 ft. x 53 ft. ; the
walls are panelled with Bath
stone, and ornamented with Ionic
columns standing on high pedes-
tals and supporting a rich entab-
lature. The ceiling is coved, and
has a large rectangular opening
covered by a lantern.

The House of Lords is used as
a Board room, but remains in
great measure unaltered ; it is

panelled and ornamented with
columns of Riga oak, but the
old benches have been removed,
the table and chairs remaining.
There are two fine pieces of
tapestry on the waHs, repre-
senting the Battle of the
Boyne and the Siege of Derry ;
the latter has a number of incidents
of the siege represented on the
margin. At the end of a room is
a white marble statue of George
III., by J. Bacon, jun., which
cost .2,000. There is also a fine
bust of the Duke of Wellington
by Turnerelli. The fireplace of
Kilkenny marble deserves notice.
A large model in wood of the
building is shown to visitors ; it
took Mr. Doolittle nearly three
years to produce it. and represents
the building and its construction
faithfully, except that the artistic
taste of Mr. Doolittle led him to
represent the pillars of the east
portico as Ionic in order to match
the rest! The roof of the cash
office lifts off and displays the in-
genious construction adopted by
Mr. Johnston.

The printing of bank notes is
done in a building at the back,
and is well worth seeing. The
beautiful row of heads, and some
other parts of the design, are
printed from steel plates, the
names of the branches and other
letterpress being afterwards prin-
ted. The system of numbering,
and of checking the numbers
printed, is most ingenious. When
finished the notes are bound into
books, and are so kept until they
are required for issue.

The automatic weighing ma-
chine that separates out light
gold is also worth seeing.

Bally brack KILLINEY.

Barnabas, Church of
S> The Church of S. Barnabas
was built in the North Lotts

123

in 1870 It was designed by
A. G. Jones, and is in Per-
pendicular Gothic. The tower,
with corner pinnacles, forms a
conspicuous object, rising as it
does to a height of 135 feet.
There is a nave with side aisles
and a chancel. It cost ,4,000.
This is one of the three churches
built from the money left by
Miss Shannon of Rathmines, the
others are : S. Paul's, Glenageary
(Decorated Gothic, 1868), and
S. KEVIN'S, South Circular-
road. The schools were built
at the expense of J. B. Ball.

Bay of Dublin POOLBEG
LIGHTHOUSE, PORT OF DUBLIN.

Barracks. Dublin is for its
size as well provided with barrack
accommodation as any city in the
kindom, and although some of
the existing buildings have been
declared to be unhealthy notably
Island-bridge the health of the
troops quartered in the city is
uniformly good. The chief bar-
racks are Island-bridge and Marl-
borough, Cavalry ; Royal Bar-
racks, R. Engineers ; Richmond ;
Wellington, Beggar's Bush,

Portobello, Ship-street, Infantry ;

Aldborough House, Commissariat.

Bartholomew, Church of

S. The Church of S. Bartholo-

MARLBOROUGH BARRACKS.

s. BARTHOLOMEW'S CHURCH.

mew, Elgin-road, was consecrated
in 1867. Itis one of the most beau-
tiful churches in Dublin, and was
designed by Wyatt
(London). It is Early
English Gothic, and
the original design in-
cluded a spire (166
feet high), but the
good proportions of
the tower, its position
and its pinnacles,
made it unnecessary.
It stands in an open
position between
Elgin-road and Clyde-
road, and 'consists of a
nave, transepts, choir,
and apse ; the tower
rises over the choir,
and in its upper storey
is octagonal. The
blelfry is reached

124

by a circular tower at the N.E.
corner.

The interior is very beautiful.
The decorations were designed by
T. Deane. the figures beingpainted
by Sydney Smith (London). The
Rood Screen, of wrought iron,
was erected in 1892, in memory
of Miss Ferrier ; it was designed
by T. Deane, and executed by
McLoughlin. Most of the win-
dows are memorials. The glass
in the east window is by O'Con-
nor, the rest by Heaton, Butler,
and Paynes. Two are in thanks-
giving for the escape of the clergy
when a crocket from the tower
was blown off and fell through
the roof. The floor is laid in
mosaic. The organ is a very fine
one, and cost more than ,1,000.
There is a clock with four faces
in open metal work, a peal of
eight bells, and a carillon which
plays every three hours.

The vicarage stands at the west
end, and has a very pretty Paro-
chial Hall attached to it.
Baths. Sea bathing is very popu-
lar among the Dubliners, and, as
the coast in the immediate neigh-
bourhood of the city is too flat to
permit of bathing except at high
water, excellent sea-water baths
have been constructed at Merrion,
Clontarf and Blackrock, while
those who prefer the open sea can
in 20 minutes from Westland-row
Station reach Sandycove, which is
beyond comparison the finest bath
ing-place on the coast. Good
swimming can be enjoyed also at
Bray, Dalkey, Dollymount, or
Seapoint. The " Dublin Swim-
ming Club " has its head-quarters
at the Blackrock Baths.

Fresh-water Baths have been
opened by the Corporation at
Tara - street (Admission 4d.,
Second Class 2cl.), and the citizens
avail themselves very fully of the

advantage. The same establish-
ment provides shower baths,
douches, &c., and attached to it is
one of the Corporation wash-
houses an invaluable boon to the
poor of our city. Among Turkish
Baths the most popular are the
Stephen's-green, the Hammam
(Sackville-street) and the Lincoln-
place, conveniently near Westland-
row Station. All of these have
hot and cold baths as well as
electric and medicated baths.

Suitable accommodation is
provided for ladies, as well as for
gentlemen in most of the Turkish
Baths in town, and at most of the
sea bathing-places given above
there are separate baths for ladies.
Perhaps the most popular se?.
bathing-places for ladies areat Salt-
hill, Sandycove and Blackrock.
Beggars. Dublin has been
from time immemorial famous fot
the pertinacity of its beggars : and
they are still with us, plying their

A BIT O' COMFORT.

trade openly and unashamed.
There is unluckily among us none
of the picturesqueness of the
foreign mendicant, nor can we
even claim any of the higher class
solicitors of the public charity
the street artist being unknown

125

have attained
to a certain
amount of
fame. Zozimus,

STREET ARABS.

a prince of wits and of beggars, Pembroke Township, contains
acquired such a reputation, that large military barracks. The

a comic Dublin weekly adopted
his name as its title.
Beggar's Bush, part of the

curious may see in the print
above an engraving of this district
during the eighteenth century, at

126

which time the ground now so
built upon was covered by thickets
and was the haunt of footpads
who used to prey upon the
citizens of Dublin. Hence the
name.

Belvidere House. (MapC.)
Belvidere House, Great Denmark-
street, faces North Gt. George's-
street. It is one of the finest old
houses of Dublin, and contains
magnificent, if somewhat florid,
stucco work. It was built about

APOLLO CEILING.

1775 and is detached, with a
frontage of 80 feet, a cut stone
basement and fine flight of steps.
The grand staircase is magnifi-
cently designed and richly
decorated in stucco of French
design executed by Italian work-
men. The three reception rooms
on the first floor are finely de-
corated. One the music room
is dedicated to Apollo who, with
his attendants and musical instru-
ments adorns the ceiling ; another

to Diana has the objects of
the chase (finely modelled), and
the third to Venus and the
Arts. The grand organ in its
S. Domingo mahogany case, fine
mahogany book-cases and old
hall chairs are worth seeing. The
house was bought by the Jesuits
in 1843 for ji,8oo (which in-
cluded the organ and book-cases)
subject to ^35 per annum, and
was turned into a college. New
college buildings having been
built at the back, the house
has been restored' to its
original condition and taste-
fully coloured.

Benevolent and
Charitable Institu-
tions. There are a large
number of benevolent and
charitable institutions in
Dublin. Information con-
cerning some of those most
interesting to visitors is
given under the following
heads :
BLIND ASYLUMS.
COFFEE PALACE.
CONVALESCENT HOMES.
DEAF AND DUMB ASYLUMS.
DOGS AND CATS' HOME.
FEMALE ORPHAN HOUSE.
GIRLS' FRIENDLY SOCIETY.
HOSPITALS.
INDUSTRIAL SCHOOLS.
LUNATIC ASYLUMS.
MAGEOUGH HOME.
MASONIC CHARITIES.
MENDICITY INSTITUTION.
PLEAS ANTS' ASYLUM.
REFORMATORIES.
VINCENT DE PAUL ORPHAN-
AGES.

SIMPSON'S HOSPITAL.
"WORKING BOYS' HOME.

Bicycling is perhaps more
popular in Dublin than might
have been expected, considering
the extremely bad surfaces of the

127

roads in many parts of the sur-
rounding county, and the very
large amount of tram line in
the city itself. Possibly the
Irish roads are to be thanked,
however, in that they forced
an Irishman to invent the
Pneumatic Tyre ! The most
important cycling meetings
take place at BALL'S-BRIDGE,
where the Irish Championships
are decided, but hardly any
local Athletic meetings take
place at which Cycling is not a
feature.

Blackrock, 5 miles from
Dublin, is one of the chief
stations on the Kingstown
railway line. It possesses fine
enclosed sea-baths and is a
pjpular summer resort. There
is a good People's park, in
which military bands play
during summer months, and,
altogether, Blackrock has dis-
tinctly advanced in attractive-
ness within recent years. An
old cross, dating perhaps from
the fourteenth century, stands
at the end of the Main-street.
Electric Tram-cars run from
Dublin direct to Blackrock and
on to Kingstown and Dalkey.

Blessing-ton is a village in
Co. Wicklow, some sixteen miles
from Dublin, on the old main
road to Kilkenny and the South.
It is a favourite trip with Dub-
liners going to the picturesque
Falls of Poulaphuca on the
river Liffey. The new Steam
Tramway provides an easy and
pleasant method of reaching
the village, and will take one
on to the Waterfall. The road-
way, as will be seen from the
view, passes directly above the
Falls, but the necessary bridge,
which was designed by Nimmo,
has been made as little offensive

POULAPHUCA.

as possible, and with its orna-
mental parapet and turrets forms
a not unpleasant picture. Num-
berless pretty peeps of river
scenery can be obtained in the
immediate neighbourhood of
Poulaphuca. It is advisable in
this trip to take the earliest car
from Terenure, as the run to
Blessington takes almost two
hours.

Blind Asylums. There are
four Asylums for the Blind in
Dublin. The Richmond National
Institution for Industrious Blind;
The Molyneux Asylum ; S.
Joseph's Catholic Male Blind
Asylum at Drumcondra Castle
(founded in Glasnevin, 1859, and
removed 1882), which is managed

128

by the Carmelite Brothers, and
contains about 100 inmates, and
S. Mary's Blind Asylum for
Girls, at Merrion (founded, 1858),
under the care of Sisters of
Charity, and with about 200 in-

SIMPSON'S HOSPITAL has a
large number of blind inmates.

Blue-Coat School, Oxman-
town. KING'S HOSPITAL.

Boating may be enjoyed at the
various seaside resorts near town,
but the chief racing clubs of
Dublin have their headquarters
on the Dodder at RINGSEND.

Botanic Gardens. There
are two Botanic Gardens : Royal
Botanic Gardens, Glasnevin, under
the Science and Art Depart-
ment, and the Botanic Gardens,
TRINITY COLLEGE. The for-
mer is two miles from G.P.O., and
can be reached by Glasnevin tram,
from the north side of Nelson's
Pillar. It is open from 10 a.m.
to 6 p.m. on week days, and
from 2 p.m. to sunset on Sundays.
The conservatories close at 5 p.m.
In 1 790 a petition, drawn up by
Dr. Walter Wade, an enthusiastic
botanist, and presented on behalf
of the Dublin Society to the Irish
Parliament, led to a grant being
given to the Society to establish
a garden, and in 1793 a plan was
drawn up by Dr. Wade and adop-
ted. In its last year of existence
the Irish Parliament gave a further
grant for the completion of the
gardens.

The site chosen was at the
Dublin side of the village of GLAS-
NEVIN (one of the most fashion-
able suburbs of the time), on
the right bank of the river Tolka.
It had been the residence of
Tickel, the poet and friend of
Addison, who often stayed with
him ; the yew walk is still asso-
ciated with the friends, as it is

called " Addison's Walk," and is
the reputed spot where Tickel
wrote his once-famous ballad
commencing : "In Leinster,
famed for maidens fair."

In 1877 the garden was taken
over by the Science and Art
Department, and it was shortly
afterwards enlarged to 40 acres
by the addition of the ground
between Prospect Cemetery and
the river.

The groundshave natural beauty
and variety, and everything
possible has been done to enhance
their attractions, so that for its
extent it would be hard to find a
more beautiful garden.

The gateway was erected about
1818 at the expense of Mr.
Pleasants. A second storey has
lately been added to one of the
lodges. On entering, the house
of the Superintendent will be seen
to the right ; it stands almost on
the site of Tickel's house ; beyond
it is a fern -house and a house for
the Victoria Regia and other
water plants, which has on its
shelves a fine collection of in-
sectivorous and foliage plants ;
turning to the left the larger glass-
houses are reached, the palm-house
occupying the top of the hill, and
containing a remarkable collection
of tree ferns. The porch to the
near annex of the palm-house is
kept filled with Orchids in flower
and is always a centre of interest,
as is the annex in early winter
when it is filled with Chrysanthe-
mums. Around these houses the
Natural Orders are displayed,
each having a separate bed cut
out from the sward, stiffness being
avoided by the graceful shapes of
the beds and by the occasional
introduction of shrubs between.

The Yew-tree Walk and col-
lection of rock plants are on the
edge of a hill which falls rapidly

129

to a pond, which in summer is
filled with water lilies, and is in
winter the earliest hope of skaters.
Luxuriant trees and shrubs adorn
the declivity, and the borders of
the lake and an island are devoted
to moisture-loving plants. A
shaded walk beyond the lake
follows the margin of the Tolka
the boundary at this side.

Students of the Science and Art
Department visit the gardens with
their Professors to sketch or paint
from nature.

There are also collections of
medicinal plants, plants useful in
husbandry, &c., and it will be
found that most classes are well
represented and successfully culti-
vated.

Botanic Gardens, Col-
lege. These gardens are in
Pembroke-road, close to Lans-
downe station. They are, of
course, intended primarily for the
use of students of medicine in the
University ; but they will well
repay a visit. There are many
curious shrubs and semi-tropical
plants. The present curator, F.
Burbidge, is a prolific writer on
Horticulture and has contributed
in no small degree to bring the
narcissus into its present popu-
larity.

Boundaries. Dublin is sur-
rounded for about one-half of its
circumference by two great roads
called the North and South Cir-
cular roads, which may be taken as
roughly the boundaries prescribed
in CAB AND CAR FARES. On
the eastern side of the city where
the Circular roads are not con-
tinued, the Grand Canal and the 1
Royal Canal roughly form the
boundaries on the south side and
north side respectively of the
Liffey. These are easily remem-
bered, and the visitor will see
that the whole districts com-

prised in Maps A, B, and C.
together with half of that in Map
D, come within the city bound-
aries.

Bray. Bray is the most fashion-
able watering place within easy
reach of Dublin; it is thirteen
miles distant to the south and is
reached by railway from Westland-
row or Harcourt-street. The
former route passes through
KINGSTOWN and gives exquisite
sea views, especially when leaving
Dalkey tunnel, and the left hand
side of the train should be chosen.
On the Harcourt-street line the
right hand side of the train gives
good mountain views and peeps at
Leopardstown Racecourse, the
CONVALESCENT HOME, and an
old Cross at Carrickmines. The
Stillorgan Reservoir and Glen-
druid are passed at the other
side.

Bray is a fine town bounded on
the south by Bray Head (793
feet) and on the north by Bray
river which separates it from the
County Dublin. An esplanade
almost a mile long forms its sea-
face ; houses front this. The chief
business street is joined to the
esplanade by the finely designed
Queensborough-road and by the
well-wooded roads grouped under
the name Novara. There are
several fine hotels.

Bray is a first rate centre for see-
ing the north side of the County
Wicklow, all the interesting parts
of which are within car and cycle
and many within pedestrian
range. Great Sugar Loaf (1,650
feet), LittleSugar Loaf (i,i2ofeet ;
Bray Head (793 feet), Kippure
(2,475 feet ) and Douce (2,384
feet) may be ascended. GLEN OF
THE DOWNS (5 miles), DARGLE
(2 miles), ENNISKERRY (3^ miles),
Powerscourt Waterfall (8 miles),
Lough Bray (12 miles), SCALP

130

{3 miles) can all he reached by
road. Lord Meath's demesne,

up Bray Head (entrance opposite
to Kilruddery) is open daily ; it

Kilruddery, is open on Monday is an easy drive and leaves only a
and Tuesday. The carriage road few yards to be ascended on foot.

131

The sea side of Bray Head can
be ascended on foot, but is closed
on Friday.

The more distant parts of the
County Wicklow can be reached
from Bray partly by train to
RATHDRUM, and then by car.
In this way Glendalough, Vale of
Ayoca, and Meeting of the
Waters, Devil's Glen, &c., can
be seen.

Bride, Church of S. (Map
A.) S. Bride's or Bridget's
Church in Bride-street is an oblong
building with two long round-
headed windows in the east end,
and dates from 1684. Amongst
the mural monuments is a plain
one to T. PLEASANTS, and a
handsome one to his wife. The
church is disused (being joined to
S. Werbugh's).

The parish was taken from the
Cathedral of Christ Church and
granted to that of S. Patrick in
1181. It consisted of a union of
three parishes, that of S. Bride
and two others which are of in-
terest. S. Stephen's, the church
of which stood where Mercer's
hospital now stands, gave its name
to S. Stephen's-green. and
Stephens-street. S. Michael de
la Pole, the church of which stood
near the "Castle steps" pos-
sessed an ancient cloigtheach or
circular belfry like that at S.
Kevin's Kitchen, GLENDALOUGH.
This church and belfry were
pulled down in 1781, and Dublin
lost one of its most interesting
relics. A stone tablet over an
archway points out the entrance
to the old schools of S. Michael
de la Pole.

Bridges. The Liffey is crossed
by ten bridges at Dublin ; they are
as follows, commencing at the
west and going down the river:

(i.) Sarah-bridge, the found-
.ation stone of which was laid in

1791 by Sarah, Countess of West-
moreland ; it is now commonly
called Island -bridge from the
village of that name. It con-
sists of one graceful arch of 104 feet
span, and connects Kilmainham
with the Phrenix Park.

(2.) Kings-bridge, built 1827
to commemorate the visit of King
George IV., in 1821. It is built
of iron.

(3.) Victoria-bridge, built in
1863. It took the place of Bar-
rack-bridge, or, as it was more
generally called, Bloody-bridge,
which was built to take the place
of an older wooden bridge which
in 1671 (the year of its erection)
the apprentices tried to destroy;
in order to cut off the troops in ^
the opposite barracks from the ,
city ; the military interrupting
them a fight ensued in which four
young men were killed, and the !
bridge earned its soubriquet.

(4.) Queen? s-bridge, 1764-1768,
built to replace Arran-bridge
which had been built in 1683,
and swept away by a flood in 1 763.

(5.) Whitworth-bridge, built in
1816 nearly on the site of Ormond-
bridge 1684, which stood on the
site of the Friars-bridge erected
in 1428 by the Dominican Friars
(who collected toll) to replace Old-
bridge, supposed to have been
built in 1215 and swept away in
1385. This was one of the
principal entrances to the city in
the reign of Elizabeth. It con-
nects Church-street with Bridge-
street.

(6. ) Richmond-bridge, built
1816, from the design of James
Savage, is ornamented with six
well cut heads and connects Wine-
tavern street with Chancery-place

The balustrade of cast iron
in front of the Four Courts is
continuous with that on Whit-
worth and Richmond bridges.

132

(7.) Grattan-bridge, built in
1678 on the model of West-
minster-bridge, and called Essex-
bridge after the Lord Lieutenant of
that date. It was rebuilt in 1756,
and in 1874 the arches were low-
ered, and it was widened by metal
wings bearing the pathways. In
the following year it was renamed

GRATTAN BRIDGE.

Grattan-bridge. It connects Capel-
street with Essex-street, and marks
the N.E. corner of the old city . The
old Custom House used to stand
just below it on the south side.

(8.) Wellington-bridge, 1816,
formerly named the Cast-iron-
bridge; it has been of recent
years generally called the Metal-
bridge, and few citizens would
recognise it by its real name. It
is a foot-bridge of a single span of
140 feet and steep gradients.
A toll of d. is still charged. It
connects Liffey-street with the
Commercial Buildings, and
through them with Dame-street.
(9.) G 1 Connell-bridge or Car-
lisle-bridge was built under the

latter name in 1794, when the
Custom House was removed from
Essex-bridge to its present site.
It like Essex-bridge was nar-
row and steep, and in 1880 the
crown of the arches was lowered,
and it was doubled in width, so that
now it is the width of Sackville-
street and perfectly level. The new-
wings follow the old work
and are handsomely exe-
cuted in stone. It is
peculiar amongst bridges
in being as broad as it is
long and in having a cen-
tral pathway, connected
with nothing and yet
largely used. When re-
opened, the PORT AND
DOCKS BOARD retained
the name Carlisle-bridge,
and the Corporation re-
named it O'Connell-
bridge ; a compromise
was arrived at, and
bronze tablets bearing
both names were inserted
over the names cut by
the Port and Docks
Board.

(10.) Butt-bridge, called
after ISAAC BUTT, popu-
larly known as the Swivel-
bridge, crosses the river im-
mediately above the Custom
House. It was built in 1878, and
is useful rather than ornamental.
It can be opened, but ships cannot
pass it owing to the Loop Line.
Broadstone. (Map C.) The
name of a district now applied to
the terminus of the M.G. W. Rail-
way, opened 1847. Probably from
a broad stone which crossed the
river Bradoge. A branch of the
Royal Canal ran into it, being
carried over the Phibsborough-
road by the Foster Aqueduct,,
from which a fine view of the city
is obtained. The station used to
be reached by a floating draw-

133

ge, ut te basin
filled up in 1879, and the old
stores from which the " fly-boats "
started for Mullingar and the
Shannon, now stand round dry
land. A new approach to the
station from Mountjoy-street was
made in 1879.

Butt, Isaac, was born at Glen-
fin, 1813. He had a brilliant
career in Trinity College and filled
the chair of Political Economy
1836-41. In 1838 he was called
to the Bar, and took silk 1844 ;
his ability and eloquence soon
gained him a foremost place at his
profession. As a Conservative he
wrote for the papers and opposed
O'Connell in the Cor-
poration and else-
where. In 1848 he de-
fended Smith O'Brien,
and sat for Youghal
as a Liberal-Con-
servative, 1852 - 65 ;
he defended the
Fenian prisoners,
1865-9 ; and 1871,
was returned for
Limerick and became
leader of what he
named the Home
Rule Party. When
Parnell invented "ob-
struction " and Butt
refused to practise
it, the leadership
changed hands. During most of
his political life Butt lived in 64
Eccles-street, and from its steps,
in 1869, delivered a speech more
fiery than discreet. KENMARE
HOUSE was afterwards his resi-
dence. He died at Dundrum in
1879.

Cage Houses. The timber
houses of Dublin were commonly
called " Cage Houses" in allusion
to the bar-like effect of their
beams. Some of them dated from
the time of Elizabeth, but, unfortu-

nately, the hand of the improver
has not spared these splendid
pieces of work, and not a single
example remains. One of the
most celebrated was the Carbrie
in Skinner's-row, which was inhabi-
ted by the Earl of Kildare in 1532.
The last to disappear was one
which stood at the corner of
Castle-street and S. Werburg-
street. It was removed by the
WIDE STREET COMMISSIONERS
in 1813.

Canals. There are two canals,
the Royal and the Grand, which
connect Dublin with the central
portion of Ireland. The Royal
Canal, incorporated 1818, and now

ROYAL CANAL, BROADSTONE BRANCH.

the property of the Midland Great
Western Ry. Co., runs parallel
to that line as far as Mullingar,
from which it branches off to-
wards Longford, and so to the
Shannon. The traffic is carried
on by private traders, who pay
toll to the Company. The
Grand Canal (1765-1772), run-
ning southward as far as Sallins
(1783), and onto Monasterevan,
giving connection with Athy,
where the Barrow Navigation
Co. joins it, and completes the

134

circuit to Waterford and many
leading southern towns. Another
branch of the Grand Canal runs
through Tullamore to Shannon
Harbour, near Banagher (1806),
forming a connection by the
river Shannon with such important
centres of population as Athlone
and Limerick, while a Branch
line connects the Shannon with
Ballinasloe.

Carlisle Bridge BRIDGES.

Carmelites, Chapel of
Convent of Discalced.
(Map A.) Aungier-street and
York-row, consecrated 1827. The
exterior is plain, but the interior
is effective. One side is lit by cir-
cular-headed windows, the other
is occupied by niches and statues.
This chapel was built by the ex-
ertions of the Rev. Dr. Spratt,
who also rescued the ancient
figure of the Virgin Mary, now at
the Epistle side of the altar. This
figure is carved in oak and belonged
to S. Mary's Abbey; it was
burned by the common hangman
and its remains placed face down-
wards were hollowed out into a
trough for pigs. The silver crown
belonging to the statue, said to
have been used in the coronation of
Lambert Simnel, (CHRIST
CHURCH CATHEDRAL,) was sold
for old silver and melted down.

Carton MAYXOOTH.

Castle Chapel. The Castle

Chapel, 1807-1814, is a pictur-
esque structure designed by F.
Johnson, in the "' Gothic " style,
as he understood it, at a cost of
42,000. It is of Gothic form
without the Gothic spirit, and
many of its details are irreconcil-
able, but standing on sloping
ground and abutting on the
modernised but massive Ber-
mingham Tower, it is the prettiest
feature of the Castle.

It consists of a choir of six bays,

supported by heavy buttresses
terminating in pinnacles and built
of black calpe. At each side of
the east window are debased
towers containing the gallery
stairs, and between them is the
office of the Ulster King of
Arms. The entrance is by the
north porch.

The most interesting parts of
the exterior are the heads cut in
dark blue Tullamore marble by
the Smiths ; there are ninety of
these, and they include all the
sovereigns of England. The
most interesting are S. Peter and
his Key over the north door,
Dean Swift over the window
above the north door, and S.
Patrick, King Brian Boroimhe,
and the Virgin Mary over the
east door.

The interior is chiefly stucco,
coloured and lined to imitate
stone, the woodwork is of Irish
oak. The Arms of all the Vice-
roys of Ireland are emblazoned in
chronological order.
Castle, Dublin. The Castle,
the town residence of the Lord
Lieutenant, has been the Royal
seat of government since the time
of Queen Elizabeth (1560). It is
now nearly in the centre of the city,
but originally formed the south-
east corner of the old walled City
(CiTY WALLS), and, before the
WIDE STREET COMMISSIONERS
opened the approaches to it, was
surrounded by crooked and narrow
streets.

The original building was com-
menced by Meyler Fitzhenry,
Lord Justice, in 1205, and finished
in 1 220, by Henri de Loundres,
Archbishop of Dublin. It was
a strong fortress, surrounded by a
moat. It fell into decay, and dur-
ing the seventeenth and eighteenth
centuries the Viceroys wrote
piteous complaints of its condition

135

and of the expense of keeping it
habitable. 'It was gradually re-
built, and hardly any of the ori-
ginal building now exists.

It stands at the west end of
Dame-street, and consists of two
courtyards. The Upper Castle
Yard is entered from Cork-hill
by a gateway, which is sur-
mounted by a statue of Justice ;
there is another gateway leading
nowhere, " built merely to pre-
serve uniformity," and between
the two is the Bedford Tower,'

BEDFORD TOWER.

which, erected like the gateways
in the middle of the eighteenth
century, has nothing mediaeval in
its appearance, but is a classical
fa9ade with a clock tower and
cupola. Under a portico at the
opposite or south side, is the en-
trance to the State apartments ;
the Chief Secretary's office is at
the east side The west end
of the south side is the rebuilt
Wardrobe Tower.

The Lower Castle Yard is
much more picturesque, being

situated on the slope of a hill ; it
contains the Bermingham Tower
(rebuilt about 1810, but with
some of the thick old walls visible
inside), in which State records
are kept, the Chapel (CASTLE
CHAPEL), the Ordnance office,
the old Treasury standing on a
terrace, and other offices, and
the headquarters of the Metro-
litan Police. It can be entered
rom Palace-street (off Dame-
street) or from Ship- street, pass-
ing underneath the light draw-
bridge leading to
the Gardens, and
by the south side
of the Chapel.

The State apart-
ments are reached
by a wide and
handsome stair-
case ornamented
by firearms. Over
the lobby mantel-
piece is a fine oak
carving. The chief
is S. Patrick's
Hall, a handsome
apartment, 82 x 41
feet, and 38 feet
high, decorated in
white and gold,
and lit since 1892
by electric lights
placed along the
cornice. The ceil-
ing was painted in 1783 by
Waldre or Waldron, for the In-
stitution of the Order of S.
Patrick ; it contains three large
designs : George III., supported
by Justice and Liberty : S.
Patrick converting the Druids,
and Henry II. receiving the sub-
mission of the local kings. The
banners and arms of the knights
adorn the walls. At one end is
the throne, over it is a gallery for
the public ; at the other end, is a
gallery for musicians and servants ;

136

and one for noblemen's daughters
who have not yet "come out."

Room, contains a long series of
portraits of Viceroys.

There are raised seats along the
sides. The Council, or Supper

The Throne-room is bright
with crimson hangings and gild-

137

ing ; it contains the throne erect-
ed for George IV., mirrors shaped
like royal crowns, and a glass
lustre presented by the Duke of
Rutland, which is a fine specimen
of Waterford glass. The Long
or State Drawingroom is interest-
ing as the only room containing
the personal property of the reign-
ing Viceroy, which is open at
State functions : the Carara marble
mantelpieces, with Bossi inlay,
were removed to the Castle from
No. 5 ELY-PLACE.

Visitors are shown the State
apartments when the Viceroy is
not in residence.

Castleknock (5 miles from
G.P.O., across the Phcenix
Park), possesses an interesting
old castle, which has been in
ruins since the Restoration. The
original castle was built by the
famous Hugh Tyrrel, one of
Strongbow's warriors, in 1177,
and stood many a siege. Only
one ivy-mantled tower now re-
mains. The " knock " or hill on
which the castle stood is believed
to be a sepulchral mound, and
remains, which have been dug up,
lend colour to the idea. St.
Vincent's College, standing in
the Old Castle Grounds, nearer
to the Knockmaroon gate of the
Phoenix Park, is a fine institution
for the education of Catholic
youth.

Cathedral of S. Patrick.
(Map A.) This venerable pile
is believed to occupy the site
of an earlier chapel erected
by Ireland's patron saint in
448 A.D. However this may
be, it was undoubtedly a Pa-
rochial Church at a very early date,
and in 1190 the site was chosen
by John de Comyn for his new
Collegiate establishment " to en-
courage the study of good literature
in Ireland." Comyn's successor

in the see, Henri de Loundres,
the only Irish prelate who was
present at the signing of the
Magna Charta at Runnymede,
raised S. Patrick's to the dignity
of a Cathedral with Dean and
Chapter. The Cathedral had a
very chequered existence for the
succeeding centuries, and was the
scene of many turbulent meetings.
An old door is shown in the North
Aisle which bears witness to
the quarrel between the Earls of
Kildare and Ormond, represen-
tatives of the Red and White
Roses. Ormond fled into the
Chapter House, fearing for his life,
and was only induced to come
forth when Kildare pledged his
honour "that he should receive
novillanie." A hole was cut in
the door of the Chapter House
that the Earls might shake hands
as a token of their reconciliation !
During the last year of Henry
VIII. the Cathedral was sup-
pressed and its revenues given up
to the Crown by Dean Bassenet
" the scoundrel (as Dean Swift
calls him) who surrendered the
deanery to that beast Henry VIII."
Within a few years however (in
1554) the Cathedral was reconsti-
tuted by Philip and Mary. In
1663 we notice that the Lady
Chapel was granted for the use of
the French Protestant refugees
who were at that time very nu-
merous in Dublin. In 1 783 during
the Lord Lieutenancy of Earl
Temple, was instituted the Most
Illustrious Order of S. Patrick,
and few indeed of the pageants
seen within the walls have equalled
in brilliancy the installation of
some of the Knights notably
that of H. R. H. The Prince of
Wales in 1868. Owing to re-
peated and strangely incongruous
attempts at restoration, very little
remained of the ancient portion of

138

the building, when in 1860 the
dilapidated condition of the sacred
edifice became so serious, that
one of our leading citizens, Sir
Benjamin Lee Guinness, under-

of the old \vork amid the later
repairs ; but while it is not possible
to extol too highly the munificence
of Sir B. Guinness, whofe work
throughout was a work of love,

took the entire restoration at his
own sole cost. The restoration
cost .150,000. and was a matter
of extreme difficulty, owing to the
impossibility of tracing remnants

one cannot help regretting that he
should have ventured to dispense
with the assistance of a professional
architect in his restoration. It
can hardly be doubted that great

139

and irreparable injury has been
done by a renovation conducted
in some respects with but little
regard to the preservation of all
that was truly antique in the
building. Practically the Cathedral
may be said to have been rebuilt,
the S. wall of the Nave was wholly
rebuilt, as were the N. and S.
Aisles, and a S. Porch was added.
The galleries and old-fashioned
pews which so disfigured the in-
terior were swept away, and the
floor which had been greatly
raised was reduced to its original
level. Among the earlier repairs
during the present century may be
noted the rebuilding in 1821, of the
North Transept, which had been

long in ruins, to act

as a Parish Church of

S. NICHOLAS WITH-
OUT ; the successful

restoration in 1845

owing to the liberality

of Dean Pakenham of

the choir, of which a

strange description

may be found in

Wright's "Historical

Guide, 1821. "The

choir was formerly

roofed with stone flags

of an azure colour, and

inlaid with stars of

gold ; but the weight

of the roof being too

great for the support

beneath, it was re-
moved, and discovered

traces of IOO win-
dows."

During wet weather

serious injuries had

been done by the river

Poddle, which has on

many occasions inun-
dated the building.

and it was not until

1880, that the genero-
sity of Lord Ardilaun

enabled the Dean and Chapter to
construct a new system ofdrainage,
which has effectually got rid of the
previous damp.

In 1872 the Synod of the Church
of Ireland, then disestablished,
constituted S. Patrick's the Na-
tional Cathedral of the Church of
Ireland, each diocese having the
right of patronage to one Pre-
bendal Stall,,whilethe Archbishops
and other Prelates have Stalls
reserved for them .

The architecture of S. Pat-
rick's is for the most part Early
English, but owing to the neces-
sity for constant repairs, many
specimens of later styles are
to be seen. The length is 300

LADY CHAPEL.

140

feet, breadth of the nave 67 feet,
while the extreme breadth at
the transepts is 157 feet. The
Spire, erected in 1705 by Bishop
Sterne, is 101 feet high and stands
upon a much older tower, 120
feet high, built probably in 1307
by Bishop Minot, whose device
(a bishop holding a steeple in his
hand) may bear reference to this

Pakenham (to whose memory also
the pulpit has been erected) is a
very beautiful work. In this chapel
the Upper House of Convocation
used to meet, and here are still
held the Visitations of the Chap-
ter. The chair used by the Presi-
dent is believed to be that in
which King William III. sat
when he attended Service in the

S. PATRICK 3. FROM S. DOOR.

fact. The ornamental cross which
finishes the spire was added by
Sir B. Guinness. The Lady
Chapel, said to have been founded
in 1270, is believed to have been
modelled, so far as its clustered
columns with their branching capi-
tals are concerned, on the famous
Chapter House of Salisbury
Cathedral. The window to Dean

Cathedral after the Battle of the
Boyne.

An arcade has been lately ( 1 892)
constructed all round the Lady
Chapel, and immensely improves
the effect. This is the gift of J.
G. Nutting, in memory of his
daughter.

To describe in detail the monu-
ments would occupy more space

141

than we can afford, but some of
the most famous deserve special
notice.

In the Baptistery the massive
figure built into the wall on the
right side of the window was
formerly believed to represent
Archbishop Comyn, but is now
generally admitted to be St.
Patrick. The tiles of which the
flooring of the Baptistery is
composed are of very great anti-
quity, having formed originally
the steps of S. Paul's side altar
in the S. Transept. Above
the Baptistery was the Cathedral
School in which tradition tells us
the famous Ussher was educated.
The monument of Archbishop
Tregury (1449) is very
noteworthy also in this
portion of the building,
as is the effigy of Fulk
de Saundford ; but the

extremely dim light
renders it quite im-
possible to see these

interesting relics satis-
factorily. In the Nave

is the pulpit from

which Swift used to

preach, and beside it

one is immediately

attracted by the noble

Boyle monument,

erected by the first

Earl of Cork to the

memory of his wife.

A strange history is

told concerning this

monument, to the effect

that it stood originally

in the place of the high

altar. Lord Strafford,

then Lord Lieutenant,

on a bitter complaint

from Laud that " this

structure occupied the

place of God's altar,"

appointed a Royal

Commission, on whose

recommendation the monument
was removed and erected else-
where. We are further told that
the misfortunes which overtook
Strafford were traceable in some
degree to his share in this re-
moval, inasmuch as the Earl of
Cork's evidence given at the trial
contributed very largely to Straf-
ford 's condemnation.

The statue of Captain Boyd by
Farrell, with an inscription from
the pen of Dr. Alexander, Loid
Bishop of Derry, is said to be an
excellent likeness of that heroic
officer, who lost his life while
endeavouring to rescue the crew ot
a sinking brig off KINGSTOWN. '

In the N. Aisle at its west end

*. AISLE, s. PATRICK'S

142

may be noticed the Mayo memo-
rial window, in memory of the

while Governor-General of India.
The monument of one of Ireland's

s. PATRICK'S (LOOKING w. FROM LADY CHAPEL).

Earl of Mayo, who was assassi-
nated in the Andaman Islands

greatest orators, John Philppt
Curran, occupies the first place in

143

this Aisle, His remains, after
lying for 20 years in the vaults of
Paddington Church, were con-
signed to Glasnevin where they
now rest. The monument to
Archbishop Jones (1619), which
stood originally in the Choir, occu-
pying an entire arch, next attracts
attention, and further on come,
among many others, a statue
to Chief Justice Whiteside, and a
slab in memory of Samuel Lover,
whose amazing versatility is hap-
pily described in the inscription.
His remains rest in Kensal-green
Cemetery.

Turning into the ^V. Transept
we come upon one of the oldest
memorials in the Cathedral, the
monument of Bishop Meredyth,
bearing date 1597. This monu-
ment, destroyed in 1688 by Crom-
wellian troopers, has been fre-
quently repaired by pious descend-
ants of the deceased prelate,forming
in this respect a remarkable con-
trast to the Schomberg memorial,
on the N. wall of this Transept.
The famous duke was killed at the
Battle of the Boyne (1690). and
the inscription records, in Dean
Swift's bitter style, how the Dean
and Chapter "after repeatedly
imploring theduke's heirs to erect a
memorial, had been finally obliged
themselves to set up this slab, that at
least the stranger might know
where lie the ashes of Duke
Schomberg.'' " The closeness of
his kinship had less weight with his
own family than had the fame of
his deeds among strangers." The
duke's skull is to be seen in the
Vestry, and shows the hole in the
forehead caused by the bullet
which killed him. Above the tomb
may be seen some military relics,
including the cannon ball which
killed Lord Loftusas he sat in his
tent (Sept., 1691,) at the siege of
Limerick. The memorial window

to the men "of the i8th Royal
Irish, who fell in the Crimea,
1855-6," is also in this Transept,
the N. end of which is occupied
by two large memorials to those
of the same regiment who fell in
China.

Passing into the North Choir
Aisle we see the ancient monu-
ment of Dame St. Leger, who
died in 1603, having had no less
than four husbands ! Some scraps
of old S. Patrick's are to be
seen in the S. Choir Aisle, as
we leave the Lady Chapel the
lid of an ancient Sarcophagus,
with an incised Celtic cross,
and a recumbent figure of
a monk in a recess of the S.
Choir wall. Here, too, must
be noticed some sepulchral
brasses, the more interesting as
being the only old memorials of
this kind now existing in Ireland.
They are in memory of Deans
Sutton (1528), and Fyche (1537).
The silver inlay on these brasses
is peculiarly worthy of notice.
Brasses to Sir Henry Wallop
(1599), and Sir Edward Ffitton
(1573), with long inscripiton, are
also in this Aisle. At the base of
the first pillar of the S. Transept
is shown the well of S. Patrick ;
but it is now believed that the
well in which he baptized was
near the steeple in the North
Close. The S. Transept contains
an elaborate monument to the
learned Primate Marsh (1713),
whose library remains to the
present day, a memorial of this
public benefactor. Archbishop
Smyth's (1771) monument, and
that of Viscountess Doneraile
(1761), are of some interest, and
a small slab, erected by Dean
Swift, records the virtues of Alex-
ander M'Gee (1721), one of the
Dean's servants. The tomb of
the learned Archbishop Whately

144

stands in the west corner of the
Transept. The S. Aisle con-
tains few monuments, but a
memorial window has been placed
here by Sir Robert Stewart, late
organist of the cathedral, in
memory of Sir John Stephenson,
whose collaboration with Moore
in "The Irish Melodies," has
rescued for us many gems of
our National music.

DEAN S"W1FT.

The bust of Swift, which is
above the Robing-room door,
was executed by a sculptor named
Cunningham for Swift's publisher,
Alderman Faulkner, by whose
nephew it was, in 1775, presented
to the Chapter. The likeness to

the Dean is considered the best
extant, and exhibits strongly the
characteristic sloping forehead.
The monument of the Dean stands
close by, and bears this inscription
from his own pen :

Hie depositum est corpus
JONATHAN SWIFT, S.T.D.
Hujus Ecclesiae Cathedralis,

Decani,
ubi saeva indignatio

ulterius
Cor lacerare nequit.

Abi viator

Et imitare si poteris

Strenuum pro virili

Libertatis vindicatorem.

Obiit 19 die mensis Octobris,

A.D. 1745. Anno Actatis 78.

The inscription on the right side
of the robing-room door com-
memorates the virtues of the
famous Stella (Mrs. Hester
Johnston), who died in 1727-8,
and was buried by torchlight.
During some alterations, rendered
necessary, in 1835, by the over-
flowing of the river Poddle, which
passes under the Cathedral, the
coffins of Swift and Stella were
exposed to view and casts were
taken of their skulls.

The bells of the Cathedral were,
for the most part, recast in 1670,
but two were added in 1864 by
Sir B. Guinness, for use in con
nection with the very curious clock
which chimes various airs. The
services of the Cathedral are held
at 11.15 A - M - an( i S^S p ' M -> ar "d
are fairly well attended. The
music at the afternoon service on
Sunday is excellent, and has
been irreverently called "Paddy's
Opera." The clearing away of
many old houses on the north
side of the building has already
greatly improved the approach
from that side, and if the present
intention of making a garden

145

there be carried out, the advantage below. In the side aisles are a

both to S. Patrick's and to the number of interesting monuments

neighbourhood will be veiy con- and in the ambulatory are other

siderable. altars. The interior of the

Cathedral Of S. Mary Cathedral has lately been deco-

(Metropolitan Church). (Map rated.

C.) Commonly called the Pro- Catherine,Church of S.
Cathedral, stands in Marlborough- S. Catherine's Church, Thomas-
street, opposite the Model schools, street, 1760-69, was designed by
It was built on the site of Annes- John Smith. It is built almost
ley House, 1816-1825, from the on the site of S. Thomas's Abbey,
design of an amateur artist living It has a classical faa^de, 92 feet
in Paris. l n g> a t one side ; the unfinished
It is Grecian, the chief facade, tower at the west end and the
118 feet long, having a portico high pitched roof dominating the
(raised on a platform approached facade quite spoil the exterior
by steps) consisting of six fluted effect. However at the time it
Doric columns supporting an was considered a triumph " In
entablature, continued around the architectural beauty inferior only
sides, ornamented with triglyphs to that of S. THOMAS' CHURCH.
and surmounted by a pediment The interior measures 80 x 47.
bearing statues of the Virgin, S. Five bells were hung in the old
Patrick and S. Laurence O'Toole tower in 1670. but they have dis-
(one guide book names them appeared. The Earls of Meath
"Faith, Hope and Charity" !). for several generations were buried
The sides also are architecturally under the altar, and there are
fa cades and measure 1 60 feet. In monuments to William Mylne,
the original appeal are the follow- 1790, who "established on a per-
ing words: "We flatter ourselves feet system the Waterworks of
that there will soon be presented Dublin," and to Dr. Whitelaw,
to the eye of the traveller on 1813, the historian of Dublin,
entering our city a specimen of Catholic Boys' Home, 72
architectural elegance that must and 73 Middle Abbey-street
bespeak the taste of the Irish (Map. C). Founded in 1887, for
people," and although taste has the purpose of providing destitute
changed since its inception it is a boys, of not more than 16, with
fine specimen of classical archi- food and lodging at a nominal cost,
tecture. It is under the care of the clergy
The interior contains nave and of S. Mary's Cathedral, and is
side aisles separated by colonades; much used by lads who live by
at the west end is an apse contain- selling newspapers,
ing a magnificent altar of white Catholic University, The
marble, executed by Turnerelli, (Map A.) is situated in St.
standing out from the wall and en- Stephen's-green on the south side,
closed by a circular railing. To the The main building, easily recog-
left on entering is a fine statute of nised by the recumbent lion over
Cardinal Cullen (by Farrell) the door, was the town house of
standing on a drum surrounded the famous Buck Whaley, whose
by figures ; at the opposite side is many feats earned him an un-
a statute of Archbishop Murray enviable notoriety. The lion
(by Farrell) with two figures above the handsome Doric door-

146

way was cast according to Malton
by the celebrated Van Nost. The
building, in spite of late addi-
tions, is not very suitable for its
present purpose, and can be re-
garded only as a makeshift, until
funds are forthcoming to erect a
building which shall be a fitter
home for the Catholic University.
The University was founded in
1854 by Pope Pius IX., and is
under the supreme government
of the Catholic Archbishops and
Bishops of Ireland. Since 1882
the University consists not of one
college only but of several which,
while retaining their separate or
ganization, co-operate for the ad-
vancement of higher Catholic
education. Degrees are granted
at present in theology and philo-
sophy only, while students in
arts, medicine, law, and en-
gineering proceed to their degrees
in the ROYAL UNIVERSITY. The
colleges composing the University
are, St. Patrick's College, MAY-
NOOTH ; University College,
Stephen's-green ; St. Patrick's
College, Carlow ; University
College, Blackrock ; Holy Cross
College, CLONLIFFE ; The Medi-
cal School, Cecilia-street.
Catholic University
Church. (Map A.) The
Church of the Catholic University,
S. Stephen's-green, S., the en-
trance to which is by a Roman-
esque door next the University,
was erected by Cardinal Newman
(1856) on the model of a church
in Rome ; indeed it is said that
the marble which covers the walls
formerly lined a church in Rome
and was given by Pius IX. to the
Cardinal, but this is uncertain.
A bust of Cardinal Newman (who
as Dr. Newman, was rector of
the University) by Farrell (1892),
stands in a marble niche. Over
the marble panneling are copies

of Raphael's cartoons. A lady
chapel has been added, and
Justice O'Brien has had all the
alabaster capitals carved and
stained glass placed in the lady
chapel. It was formerly a col-
legiate church for students in
residence, but is now a parochial
chapel-of-ease.

Cemetery of Mount
Jerome, Harold's-cross, is
more especially devoted to the
burial of Protestants, and contains
many handsome memorials, though
none perhaps so striking as the
tombs of O'Connell or Curran in
PROSPECT CEMETERY. The
grounds are, however, of equal
beauty, and considerable taste is
exhibited in the care of the ceme-
tery. The entrance is beside
Harold's Cross Church, and a
broad walk leads directly to the
mortuary chapel, a Gothic building
in the Early English style.

Among many tombs of less-
general interest is to be noticed
that of the poetDavis, of" Young
Ireland" fame, with a superb
marble statue by Hogan. White-
side the orator lies beside the
mortuary chapel.

Cemetery, Prospect. (By
Glasnevin tram from north side of
Nelson Pillar, 3d. ; alighting at
junction of Glasnevin and Finglas
roads.)

Scandals connected with burial
led Daniel O'Connell, in 1823, to
recommend the foundation of a
Catholic burial place, and in 1828
one was opened at Golden-bridge.
This becoming rapidly full, a
larger one was opened in a
northern suburb near Glasnevin
in 1832, and subsequently several
times enlarged. At present it
consists of some 58 acres, and is
surrounded by high walls broken
at intervals by towers in which
watchers armed with guns used tc-

147

PARNELL'S GRAVE, O'CONNELL TOWER
AND MORTUARY CHAPEL.

be placed to prevent body
snatchers from crossing the walls.

There are two entrances, that
on the Finglas road, was built in
1878, and is exceedingly beauti-
ful. It consists of a long stretch
of railings with handsome gates
and noble piers of carved granite.
Through the railings are seen the
mortuary Chapel, O'Connell
Round Tower, and numerous
beautiful memorials.

The Mortuary Cha-
pel of the Resurrec-
tion ot our Lord (1879)
is a beautiful granite
building of Roman-
esque architecture of
twelfth century Irish
design, such as is met
with on the Rock of
Cashel. It was de-
signed by J. J.
M'Carthy, R.H. A.,
the windows being
supplied by Messrs.
Clayton and Bell.

The O'Connell
Monument consists of
around tower 170 feet

in height, in a
vault under which
the body of the
Liberator was laid
in 1869, having
rested in the
O'Connell Circle
for twenty - two
years. The re-
mains are enclosed
in an altar tomb,
through the trefoil
openings of which
the coffin can be
seen. Curiously
enough, by mis-
take, his age was
engraved on the
brass let into the
altar slab as 73
instead of 71.

Numbers of other tombs of in-
terest can be found. Curran, Sir
John Gray, Tom Steel, Dr. Spratt,
John Hogan the sculptor, John
O'Donovan the Irish scholar,
William Smith O'Brien, Cardinal
Cullen, and Parnell, are but
a few names chosen at hazard
from the many which are house-
hold words in Ireland. Many
of the tombs are of great

CTJRRAN'S TOMB.

148

beauty and nearly all are in
good taste.

Charlemont House. (Map
C. ) Charlemont House stands a
little back in the centre of Palace-
row, the north side of Rutland-
square. The house was designed
by Lord Charlemont, assisted by
Sir William Chambers ; the front
is of Arklow stone, the basement
is rusticated, and the first floor

CHARLEMONT HOUSE.

has five windows adorned with
architraves, and surmounted by
pediments alternately angular and
circular. At the sides of the
doorway are obelisks which for-
merly supported lamps, and semi-
circular curtain walls with niches
and balustrades enclose the space
in front. There is a rather fine
staircase, but the rooms are shorn
of their beauty by the removal of
old mantelpieces and doors. The
windows of the upper storey are
curiously concealed. There is a
splendid view of Dublin from the
flat raised roof. In the early
years of the present century this
house contained a valuable col-
lection of picture's and curios. It

is now used as the General
Register office. The library is
used in Census years. A public
search room was built (1895).

A long passage, off which a
small library with semi-circular
ends opens, leads to the large
library erected at the end of the
garden. The ante-room, lit by a
dome, contains the niche where
the celebrated Venus stood, but
the marble pillars and carved
wood have been removed.
The ceilirtg of this ante-room
is a fine example of stucco,
but all the old work has dis-
appeared from the library.
Chess ClubS. There are
many Chess Clubs in and
about Dublin. The most
important are the Dublin
C.C. (1867), 35 Molesworth-
street ; the City C. C. (1887),
Coffee Palace; the Dublin
University C. C. (1875).
Most of the suburbs have
Clubs, some of which are
very strong. The Dublin
Club of Living Chess (1891),
gives performances of chess
and whist for charities.
There are weekly Chess
columns in several of the Dublin
papers, and an annual contest for
the "Armstrong Cup" tests the
relative strength of the Clubs.
Christ Church Cathe-
dral. (Map A). The Cathedral
of the Holy Trinity, commonly
called Christ Church Cathedral,
is architecturally and historically
the most interesting building in
Dublin. Having been built by
the Danes, who were hemmed in
by hostile tribes, and rebuilt by
the English as the Cathedral of the
Pale, it is in striking contrast to
the Romanesque found in other
parts of Ireland.

Indeed so far were English ideas
carried that in 1380 a law was

149

passed that no native should te
suffered to profess himself in this
institution, and, except in the reign

Probably no other building so
frequently destroyed and so dread-
fully altered was ever restoied,

CHRIST CHURCH CATHEDRAL B. END.

of James II., no Irishman was
admitted even as Vicar-Choral
until late in the eighteenth century.

but owing to the liberality of a
citizen and the genius of an archi-
tect, Christ Church is now almost

150

exactly as it was when rebuilt in
the thirteenth century.

The eventful history of the
Cathedral can be but briefly sum-
marised.

In 1038 it was founded by the
Danish King Sitric for Secular
Canons.

About 1163 it was changed by
Archbishop Laurence O'Toole in-
to a Priory.

Soon after 1 1 72 it was enlarged,
a choir and steeple, and two
chapels being added by Arch-
bishop Laurence O'Toole, Strong-
bow and others.

1 181-1225 the rest of the build-
ing was remodelled. All the old
parts now remaining date from
this period ; as the work was
done by the English its style is
similar to that of the same period
in England, and the work marks
the transitional period passing
from Norman to early English
Gothic. From the character of
the details Mr. Street considered
that those who worked at Glaston-
bury and South Wales also worked
here.

From this on the history of the
fabric is chiefly a catalogue of mis-
fortunes.

In 1 283 some of the neighbour-
ing tribes set fire to Skinner's-
row, and the fire spreading to the
Cathedral, the steeple, chapter-
house, cloister and dormitory
were burned . The citizens deserve
credit for having raised money to
repair the Cathedral before they
attempted to rebuild their own
houses ; however in 1316 the new
steeple was burned down.

In 1300 precedence over S.Pat-
rick's was formally acknowledged.

Between 1349 and 1362 an in-
tentional alteration wrought great
ruin. Archbishop John de S.
Paul pulled down the Apsidal
Norman Choir which was 32 feet

deep, and erected an oblong one
105 feet long, which had a bend
to the north, in order to take ad-
vantage of the S. wall of an older
Lady Chapel as a foundation for
his north wall, and so economise.
The design of this Chancel was
strangely poor, considering the
splendid work being done in Eng-
land at the same time. It was in
this Chancel that Service was held
until the restoration ; the rest of
the building being used as a pro-
menade.

In 1461 the great E. window
was blown in, and the records,
relics, &c., injured.

In 1486 a curious piece of his-
tory was enacted in the Cathedral.
Lambert Simnel was conducted
to it in state and formally crowned
as Edward VI.

In 1538 Henry VIII. restored
it to its original foundation as a
Cathedral, with a Dean and Chap-
ter of Secular Canons.

On Easter Day, 1551, the Lit-
urgy was read in English for the
first time in Ireland in Christ
Church Cathedral.

In 1562 the crowning catastro-
phe occurred. The heavy stone-
groined roof had gradually spread
the walls asunder, and in this year
fell, carrying most of the south
wall and west front, and leaving
the north side of the nave leaning
out as it does to the present.

In 1563 a hideous blank wall
was built where the south pillars
of the nave had stood, and a
wooden roof was added. The
fallen stones were not removed,
but were levelled and flagged over,
raising the level of the floor, but
preserving for Mr. Street a quarry
in which details of carving and
design were found which enabled
the original building to be repro-
duced ; and Mr. Street has left
lasting testimony to the fidelity

151

of his work by building in old
stones here and there throughout
the new work.

Although the ruinous state of
the Cathedral required occasional
patching, it remained from this
date until its restoration in practi-
cally the same condition.

In 1682 the remains of the
monastic and other buildings to
the south of the nave were re-
moved, and the King's Courts
erected instead ; these courts were
used until the Four Courts were
erected on Inn's-quay. A low,
dark passage leading into the
yard of the Courts was named
"Hell," from a figure of black
oak which stood in a niche in it,
it was probably an old figure of
the Virgin, and originally stood
over the entrance to the passage,
but from its blackness it was
popularly considered to represent
the devil. The connection be-
tween hell and the lawyers was
a fruitful source of jokes in Dublin
of the eighteenth century.

In the earlier part of this century
the Commissioners of Wide Streets
removed the north side of
Skinner's-row and the buildings
known as Christ Church Yard,
leaving the open space that now
exists between the Cathedral and
Christ Church-place, which latter
is the south side of old Skinner's-
row.

1831 is the last date of degene-
ration. In it the oblong choir
was remodelled, and poor as it
always was, it was made still poorer
by being robbed of nearly every
relic of its original architecture.
Another curious alteration was
made at the same time, the beauti-
ful Norman door, was removed
from the North Transept and
placed in the South Transept,
where it still remains.

The Great Restoration of this

century lasted from 1871-8, and
was carried out at the sole cost
of Henry Roe, D.L., under the
direction of George Street, R.AJ,
Architect. In 1872, an Act of
the General Synod made Christ
Church the Cathedral Church of the
united Dioceses of Dublin,Glenda-
lough, and Kildare. The opening
of Lord Edward-street (188$)
cleared the east end of the Cathe-
dral, and new railings were
erected. Part of a fund for the
unemployed was devoted to laying
out the grounds. In 1893 the
east end was completed under the
supervision of T. Drew, R.H.A.

The approach to the Cathedral
from Dame-street is very beautiful.
At first the mass of the Cathedral
attracts attention, but gradually
resolves itself, and the central
tower stands out from the sur-
rounding gables and roofs, then
these separate, and from the up-
per end of LordEd ward-street the
beauty and richness of the exterior
can be appreciated.

The grounds are entered by a
small east gate, close to the frag-
ment of wall which formed one of
the corners of the fourteenth cen-
tury chancel ; the path leads past
the choir buildings, the apsidal
chapels, S. Laurence O'Toole's
chapel, and the S. transept,
with its beautiful Norman door,
in front of which lie the ruins of
the Chapter House From this
point the exterior of the Nave,
the bridge leading to the Synod
Hall, and the site of the cloister
garth are seen.

The Cathedralisentered\hx<M.g\
the south porch, from which steps
lead to the Synod Hall bridge ;
it contains a handsome marble
monument erected by the Royal
Dublin Society to Thomas Prior,
their founder, ob. 1756.

The best view of the interior is

from inside the west door. As the
eves become accustomed to the

the graceful Early English
nave, with its old north side

CHRIST CHURCH (LOOKING E.).

gloom the beauties of the build-
ing gradually disclose themselves

leaning out, the baptistery, the
screen, the tower arches, the

153

apsidal chancel, the coloured
windows, the exquisite tiles.

The JVave is thirteenth century
Early English Gothic ; the mould-
ings of the piers and arches are
numerous and rich, and the capi-
tals have carved heads and stalked
foliage.

The triforium consists of triple
openings, the centre having a
trefoil head ; the clerestory has
a similar arrangement. The sills
of the triforium rest upon a
moulded string course, from which
spring shafts of dark blue lime-
stone, running up and dividing
the groups of triforium and cleres-
tory openings, and giving depth
and colour to the design, an
effect which is intensified by the
groined roof springing, not from
corbels, but from the capitals of
annulated columns starting from
the base of the nave piers.

The surface of the pillars at the
north side is new, but the wall
above is mostly old, and leans out
from the tops of the pillars owing
to the spread of the original roof ;
a recurrence of this has been pre-
vented by the use of flying but-
tresses.

The tiles are very rich in colour-
ing and variety of surface (being
impressed, inlaid, and in relief),
and are all copies of old tiles dug
up during the restoration. The
large circles in the centre aisle re-
present the disciples going out two
by two.

All the windows are filled with
stained glass ; the western Jesse
and smaller windows, are in me-
mory of Lord Chancellor Black -
burne ; the windows in the north
clerestory contain the arms of the
Irish dioceses ; the lower shield in
the most westerly is placed side-
wards, and contains Mr. Roe's
arms, and his monogram is car-
ved on the central boss of the

westerly bay of the south side
aisle.

Going along the north aisle a
small door is seen which leads by
a turret to the clerestory and roof ;
the baptistery opens from the
second bay by an arch of peculiar
shape built up of old stones, and
here it may be pointed out that in
almost every arch or moulding
Mr. Street has had at least one
old stone inserted as a proof that
he was following the old design.

The Baptistery is a copy of a
Baptistery, or perhaps a porch, the
foundations of which were found
at a lower level. It is an archi-
tectural gem. The roof is sup-
ported by two central slender clus-
tered columns of Irish marble and
ten columns placed round the
walls. There are ten lancet and five
oval windows filled with coloured
glass, and a table bench runs all
round. The windows were put
in by Mr. Street in memory of his
wife. Those on the right side
give her Christian names by
having figures of S. Mary and S.
Anne, and Mr. Street's are shown
at the left by S. George and 8.
Edmund. The other five are
Irish saints, amongst whom S.
Cuthbert is included. Between
the centre pillars stands the font
on a slab of black marble ; green
and red shafts support a grey bowl
elaborately inlaid with coloured
marble.

The arch leading from the aisle
into the north transept is part of
the original work, and is a most
beautiful example of transitional
Norman work.

. In the south aisle is what is
known as the Strongbow Monu-
ment. It consists of two monu-
ments lying side by side, each on
its own block of marble. Thelarger
figure is that of a knight in full
armour, and is reported to repre-

154

STRONGBOW

sent Strongbow; it is really an
effigy substituted in 1570 (the
arms on the shield are those of
FhzOsmond), the original monu-
ment having been hopelessly
broken by the fall of the cathedral.
The smaller figure is older, and is
only from the hips up. Legend
says that it represents Strongbow's
son, who, showing cowardice in
battle, was cut in two by his father.

As some say that
Strongbow only ran
his sword through,
and others that his
son fought in subse-
quent battles, it is
more probable that
the figure was broken
in two by the fall of
the roof and the bro-
ken end roughly
chiselled off. The
appearance of the
intestines, however,
gives strength to the
legend. Bones,
thought to be those
of Strongbow, were
found in a hollow
space over the crypt
arching, exactly be-
neath where the
monument now lies ; they were
placed in a box from which they
mysteriously disappeared. In
old agreements it was often
arranged that payments were to be
made on Strongbow's tomb, and
the custom has only lately died
out.

Against the wall of the south
aisle are the two following inscrip-
tions :

THIS : AVCYENT : MONVMENT : OF : RYCHARD : STRA
NGBOWE : CALLED : COMES : STRANGULENSIS : LORD : OF t
CHEPSTO : AND : OGNY : THE : FYRST : AND : PRYNCYPALL

INVADER : OF : IRELAND : 1169 : QUI : OBIIT : 1177 : THE
MONVMENT : WAS : BROCKEN : BY : THE : FALL : OF
THE : ROOF : AND : BODYE : OF : CHRISTES
CHVRCHE : IN : A : 1562 : AND : SET : VP
AGAYNE : AT : THE : CHARGYS : OF : THE
RIGHT : HONORABLE : SR : HENRI : SYDNEY

KNYGHT : OF : THE : NOBLE : ORDER : L

PRESIDENT : OF
IRELAND : 1570.

WAILES

DEPVTY

155

T : RIGHT : HONORABLE : T : ERL
OF : SVSSEX : L : LEUTNT : THIS : WAL : FEL :
DOWN : IN : AN : 1562 : T :
BILDING : OF : THIS : WAL : WAS : IN : AN :
1562.

Rebuilt in its ancient form in anno 1878 by the Duke of
Marlborough, L. Lieutenant. Reposuit W.B.P. 1891.

The pillar between the nave
and south transept has four heads
carved on it. They represent
(from the side aisle to the nave)
Mr. Street, Archbishop Trench,
Mr. Roe and Primate Beresford.
The Royal and Mayoralty State
pews have the ancient arms affixed
to them. The pulpit is supported
by columns of greenGal way marble
resting on bases of red Cork mar-
ble, which stand on a massive
slab of Kilkenny marble. The
panels contain figures of the four
Evangelists, and the cornice is of
red marble. From this the west
window is well seen ; it has five
lofty lancets, the three inner are
stilted, and the centre has a trefoil
head.

The Screen. This is a most
beautiful piece of work, and, like
the pulpit, was designed by Mr.
Street. The base is red Cork
marble, columns of Kilkenny mar-
ble divide it into five parts, of
which the centre is the doorway,
and a richly carved course of Kil-
kenny marble runs across. The
arches are finely carved, the Pascal
Lamb being represented over the
door ; the finial over it is a copy of
the famous Cross of Cong ; the
gables are double. The lower
part of the arches were at first
filled in with alabaster diaper, but
lately gilt metal has been substi-
tuted.

The South Transept is a beautiful
and impressive example of transi-

tional work ; the capitals, mould-
ings and string courses are richly
carved. It contains a monument
to the Earl of Kildare, ob. 1743,
and a quaint one dating from 1677.
The ascent to the tower is com-
menced at the S.W. corner, and
at the east side is the entrance
into

S. Laurence G'Toole's Chapel,
founded circ. 1 190, destroyed early
in the present century and rebuilt
1871. It is entered by an ancient
arch and contains an effigy usually
described as that of S. Laurence
O'Toole, but more probably
Archbishop Comyn who built the
present north-side of the nave.
The effigy in Purbech marble is
supposed to represent Strong -
bow's wife. There is also the
following monumental inscription
to John de Lombard circ. 1310 :
John Lumbard of the County of
Parma and Dame Rame Paris of
Saint Savour of Esturia, his wife,
and all their lineage died whilst
in this country lie here.

Proceeding round the Ambula-
tory (which is entered by an
ancient arch) the three eastern
chapels are seen. They were
built circ. 1171, destroyed circ.
1315 and rebuilt 1871. The
ambulatory and Chapels have a
bench table round the walls and
transitional arches.

Chafel of S. Laud or S. Lo.
contains a brass commemorating
the restoration by Mr. Roe ; and

lort

the heart of S. Laurence O'Toole. fragment of the old work is in-
It is paved with old tiles. Chapel serted. There are seventeen

CHK1SI CHURCH SCREEN AND S. TRANSEPT.

of Sancta Maria Alba or Lady sedilia, the centre, for the bishop,
Chapel, on the north side, a single is the largest. Chapel of S.

15;

Edmund, King and Martyr. The
Chapter-room, Choristers School-
rooms, &c., are built on the site
of the chapel of the B. V. Mary.

The North Transept contains
the organ which stands on a carved
gallery of Caen stone supported
by marble columns ; it is a fine
instrument built by Telford, the
case being designed by Mr. Street.

The Choir is made up of the
apse and the space under the
Central Tower. The apse has five
arches surmounted
by beautiful diaper
work, the north and
south arches are fine
examples of the work
of Strongbow's time
and show their tran-
sitional character by
the combination of
Norman ornament
with the pointed
arch . The new capi-
tals are beautifully
carved. The long
brass north of the
sanctuary is to Arch-
bishop Trench, 1886,
and bears a faithful
likeness. The com-
bination of the
marble and tiles in
the sanctuary floor
deserves attention ;
indeed all the details here
are of exceeding beauty. The
eagle lectern dates from the
fifteenth century. The four arches
supporting the central tower are
richly carved ; they were inserted
during the restoration, ten feet
above the original arches which
were plain and by their lowness
spoiled the interior view.

The Crypt is reached from the
south aisle of the nave by a
circular headed door leading into
a small chapel containing an altar
tomb to Bishop Lindsay (for forty-

two years Dean of the Cathedral)
ob. 1846. The old connection be-
tween the Bishoprick of Meath
and the Deanery of the Cathedral
will be noticed on several monu-
ments. Old worn steps lead down
into the extensive and well cared
crypt, which is lit by gas and
contains a large number of monu-
ments and antiquities ; only a few
can be mentioned. Lord Chan-
cellor Bowes, ob. 1767. The
ancient stocks which stood until

THE CITT STOCKS.

1821, in Christchurch-place.
Wood-carving about 200 years
old. Fragments of pottery, old
mortars, metal work, &c., dug up
during various excavations, and a
piece of the peat which underlies
the soil. The tabernacle and
candlesticks used at Mass in the
Cathedral in the reign of James
II. The statues of Chas. II. and
James, Duke of York, brought
from the THOLSEL, until the
restoration stood in the north
transept. Busts of Dr. Welbore
Ellis and his wife, ob. 1733 and

158

1739- Richard Woodward, organ-
ist of the Cathedral oh. 1777, with
one of his chants, in musical
notation, sculptured on the monu-
ment. The monument to Steven-
son is of rare beauty and might
with advantage be restored to the
Cathedral ; it was carved by T.

IN THE CRYPT.

Kirk; and consists of a bust of
Stevenson ; leaning against the
pedestal is a choir-boy bearing the
scroll of an anthem.

The monument to Nathaniel
Sneyd is generally considered
Kirk's best work ; the dying
figure is touchingly rendered.

The monuments to Thomas
Abbott, ob. 1837, and to Sir
Samuel Aughmuty are also by
Kirk. There are a large number
of fragments of carved stone saved
during the restoration.

The T0wera\so is worth visiting.
There are thirteen bells on which
tunes are played every three hours.
The clock has no external face.

The nave is open, but a charge

of 6d. is made for seeing the
chan el. transepts and crypt,
and a further charge of 6d. is
made for ascending the tower.
Christian Union Build-
ings (Map C.) The Christian
Union Buildings in Lower Abbey
Street are erected on the site of
the Metropolitan
Hall, formerly the
Music Hall. They
were opened in
1882. There is a
large hall with a
smaller hall and
corridor at one
side, all of which
can be joined into
one when re-
quired. The front
of the building,
which is a hand-
some elevation of
red brick and
limestone, con-
tains the rooms of
the Y. M. C. A.,
and the offices of
other Societies.
There is a gym-
nasium in the
basement.
Circular Roads BOUND

ARIES.

City Hall (Map A.) Cork-hill,
formerly the Royal Exchange, was
built from the designs of Thomas
Cooley in 1769, by a Society of
Dublin merchants, the expenses
of the building being raised by
lotteries. The famous patriot, Dr.
Charles Lucas, then one of the
city representatives, secured from
Parliament the purchase money
for the site. The Exchange seems
however to have been very little
used for its original purpose, but
soon became a" popular place for
public meetings. Here usually
the famed Volunteers used to meet
for reviews ; and here the Yeo-

159

manry had their head quarters in
1798, and perpetrated many cruel-
ties on passers by who fell under
their suspicion. Here in 1800,
Daniel O'Connell made his first
public speech a protest against
the Union with Great Britain. On
the assimilation of Irish currency
to that of England the original
purpose of the Exchange ceased
to exist, and attempts were made
by the CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
to sell the building to the Govern-
ment. These were, however, not
successful, and in 1852 the Ex-
change became the City Hall of
the Corporation of Dublin. The
building is deservedly considered
to be one of the finest in the city.
Its principal front faces Parliament
Street, and consists of a fine por-
tico with pediment supported on
six columns of the Corinthian order
those at each end being coupled.
The western front faces Castle-
street and with the city offices
combines to lend considerable
dignity to the approach to Dublin
Castle. This western front is a
similar portico of four Corinthian
columns but without pediment.
The entablature is continued all
round the building. A fine balus-
trade crowns the top except where
interrupted by the pediment. The
eastern front is plainer having only
coupled pilasters similar to those
which adorn the northern and
western fronts, but no portico.
The edifice itself is a square of
100 feet and is surmounted by a
dome, which is not, however, very
conspicuous outside. The situa-
tion on a steep ascent has made
it necessary that the main en-
trance should be approached by a
flight of steps.

The former heavily-railed en-
trance fell in while a number of
citizens were watching from the
steps the whipping of a criminal

in 1814. A view of this old
entrance can be seen in Malton's
Views of Dublin. On entering the
great Central Hall one cannot
fail to be struck by the similarity
of design to that of the Hall at the
Four Courts. Both are the work
of Mr. Cooley, and in each we
find the main plan consists of a
square with a circle inscribed in it.
The interior of this Hall is strik-
ingly beautiful. Twelve composite
fluted columns support a dome,
superbly lighted by a central sky-
light and twelve circular windows
in the attic. The dome is beauti-
fully decorated with hexagonal and
diamond-shaped compartments,
the whole being a fine example of
stucco-work. In the Hall are
statues- -O'Connell and Drummond
both by Hogan, Henry Grattan by
Chantrey, Dr. Lucas by Edward
Smyth, a statue remarkable as
being produced when the sculptor
was only 23 years of age. The
effect is wonderfully expressive of
life and action, but the attitude is
painfully suggestive of double-
jointedness in the deceased patriot.
There is also a fine bronze statue
of George III. by Van Nost,
whose pupil Edward Smyth was.
A bust of Denis Florence
McCarthy, the poet, is also in the
Hall. On each side of the columns
which support the dome are semi-
pilasters of the Ionic order, rising
to half the height of the columns
to which they are attached, and
above them is an entablature over
which in the inter-column spaces
are festoons of laurel. These
Ionic pillars are continued round
the building, and between each
pair is a door and circular window.
At each side of the north main
entrance rise geometrical stair-r
cases, lighted by oval lanterns,
and leading to the Hall where the
City Fathers now meet. The

160

staircases are adorned with fine
stucco work, showing in some
parts copies of figures found in
Herculaneum. Before leaving
the Central Hall the visitor
should note the standard mea-
sures of length which are marked
on the floor by small brass
squares let into the pavement.
Smaller standard measurements
are exhibited outside the north
entrance. The floor itself is
handsomely inlaid with black and
white flags of gradually decreasing
size as they approach the centre.
The Corporation Council Cham-
ber (the old coffee-room of the
Royal Exchange) extends from
one staircase to the other, almost
the entire length of the northern
front. It is furnished in excellent
style, after the fashion of the
House of Commons. The Lord
Mayor's Throne, made of Irish
Oak, with the Irish wolf dog on
its arms, occupies one end of the
Chamber, and behind it is the
entrance to a convenient press
gallery. The removal in 1892 of
the unsightly gallery for the pub-
lic, which used to project over
the Lord Mayor's seat, has added
greatly to the beauty of the room.
The public have now a large
gallery at the opposite end, from
which they can hear the debates
sometimes sufficiently heated of
their representatives. The brass
work which is used to screen off
the various parts of the Chamber
is of simple but very chaste design,
and is ornamented with the Irish
harp. Some fine paintings hang on
the walls, among which may be
noticed Hamilton's portrait of H.
Sankey, 1791-2; D. O'Connell,
Lord Mayor in 1841-2 ; Dwyer
Gray, 1890; T. Sexton, 1888-9.
The Chamber is lighted by two
oval lanterns in addition to the
windows of the north front. The

Members' Room is a small room
over the west front, and is com-
fortably furnished. It contains a
complete series of all the Dublin
papers for the past loo years.
Over the fire place hangs a very
large map of the city, which is
kept always up to date. The
entire building is lighted by elec-
tricity.

City of Dublin Hospital
(Map B.) Upper Baggot- street,
was founded 1832. In 1893-5 the
present front of red brick and
buff terra-cotta was added from
the designsofA. E.Murray, C.E.,
Lord Pembroke paying ^6,000,
the rest being raised by the
" Kosmic Bazaar " held at Ball's
Bridge, 1893. The hospital is
unsectarian.

City Walls. The \valled-in City
of Dublin was a small rectangle,
of which Christ Church Cathedral
forms nearly the centre ; only a
few scattered portions of the walls
remain.

Probably the first strong walls
date from the time of Henry II.,
but they were frequently added to
and their boundaries enlarged.
One important addition was in
1315 ; of this S. AUDOEX'S ARCH
remains.

Starting from the CASTLE
(the S.E. corner of the old city)
by the gate leading into Ship-
street, the walls form the right
hand side of Little Ship-street
( Sheep- street ) ; the gateway over
the Castle steps is on the site
of Austin's Gate, but is modern,
and the old walls were re-cased
with lime stone in 1856, and look
quite new. The walls crossed
S. Werburgh's-street by Pole Gate
(so called from river Poddle), and
on to S. Nicholas Gate (the site
is in S. Nicholas-street, about
Draper's-court) ; then gradually
turned to the north outside a

161

narrow thoroughfare named Back-
lane, behind the houses of which
portions of the wall can be traced.
Lamb-alley in Cornmarket has its
left side curved ; the curved wall
(now the side of a public-house)
was formerly part of one of the
outer towers of Newgate, the
western gateway of the city,
which as lately as 1794 was used
as a prison, and which stood
about the western part of Webb's
establishment. At the opposite
side of Cornmarket was Ormond
(Wormwood) Gate.

The wall is next found to the
north of S. AUDOEN'S CHURCH,
supporting a small portion of
graveyard now converted into a
public garden ; going down the
passage between the church and
the garden the most interesting
relic of the walls is found S.
AUDOEN'S ARCH, but this por-
tion dates from 1316, and the
course of the older wall is uncer-
tain.

There were a number of towers
along the river front ; the Old
Crane (ico ft. square) stood at the
corner of Winetavern-street. The
foundations of a tower are to be
seen in the basement of the corner
shop of Essex-street and Essex-
quay. Dame's Gate, removed in
1698, was joined by a wall to the
Birmingham Tower of the Castle.
Clocks. The first public clock
in Dublin was that erected in the
steeple of S. Patrick's Cathedral
in 1560. The present clock in
the turret was presented by Sir B.
Guinness in 1 864. There are good
clocks also in the front of Trinity
College and in the Ballast office,
Westmoreland-street, the time
being kept in the former from
Dunsink Observatory, and in the
latter direct from Greenwich. A
time-ball falls at the Ballast office
at I p.m. Greenwich time. The

Royal University in Earlsfort-ter-
race, has in the tower a clock which
used to be regarded as a good time-
keeper when it stood at the Post
Office. It has a very sweet peal
of bells, but its time is now very
inaccurate. The Post Office has
at present a small clock concealed
under the main front, and many of
our leading churches have within
late years erected clocks which
are of great value in their neigh-
bourhoods. Among the best are
those of S. George's in Hard-
wickr-place ; the Presbyterian
church in Rutland-square and S.
Bartholomew's in Clyde-road,
with a fine set of bells which
y various hymns at intervals.
Church Cathedral has a
clock with chimes but no face.

Clon. An Irish prefix meaning a
meadow.

Clondalkin, a station on the
Kingsbridge line distant some 4
miles from Dublin, is interesting
chiefly for its ROUND TOWER,
which is one of the most perfectly
preserved in Ireland. The door-
way is approached by a flight of
modern steps ; and as one of the
local gentry has caused the floors
to be replaced in the various
storeys of the tower, the stranger
will have here an opportunity of
studying the interior of these
ancient Irish towers. Clondalkin
is unfortunately not a very fine
example of a round tower, being
only 84 feet high. The projection
around the base is unique and may
be of later origin.

ClonlifFc. Clonliffeor the Plain
of the Liffey is situated to the
North of Dublin and forms part
of the Drumcondra Township ;
over it the battle of Clontarf
(1014) raged. It has within the
past few years been densely
covered with small houses ; and
two grounds for races and other

sports Drumcondra Park and
City and Suburban Race Course
have been opened. A few old
houses remain on Qonliffe
road, two of them formed the
original Feinaiglian Institute, and
afterwards the preparatory school
(ALDBOROUGH HOUSE), HOLY
CROSS COLLEGE, St. ALPHONSUS
Convent, and the Palace of the
Roman Catholic Archbishop are
amongst the chief buildings. There
is also an iron chapel of ease to
S. Georges' (i 880.
Clon I iffe College. - Holy
Cross College, Clon-
liffe, for divinity
students, is a large
building standing in
extensive grounds of
old meadow land and
fine trees. It was
built by Cardinal
Cullen in 1879, tne
designs being supplied
by'J. J. M'Carthy.
The most interesting
portions of the build-
ing are the large room
where prizes are dis-
tributed, and, under it.
the refectory ; the lib-
rary contains the
library of the Catholic HOI

University in the fine
old mahogany book-
cases taken from S.
Stephens Green, as well as a
large collection of other books
including a complete series of the
" Freeman's Journal " from its
earliest issue in 1764. Amongstthe
objects of interest are some
valuable paintings : a letter from
Pius IX. to Cardinal Cullen, the
Propaganda Prize List for 1826
with the name of P. P. Cullen
carrying off first prizes in nearly
every class, and numerous pre-
sentation albums.

The Church, which contains a

portion of the true Cross, is at one
end of the main building and is in
the classical style. The front is
of granite, and though massive its
design gives lightness to it. In
the portico are two statues, a
superb one of Pius IX. signed
E. Matteini, Roma 1865, and a
replica by Farrell of his statue of
Cardinal Cullen in the Pro-
Cathedral. The interior is in the
style of the Roman basilica ; a
nave terminating in an apsidal
sanctuary, and separated from the
nave aisles by seven bays of semi-

CE08S CHURCH, CLONXIFFE
COLLEGE.

circular arches resting on red
marble pillars, 15 feet high, and
each cut out of a single block.
(These pillars came from Italy
wrapped in cottonwool, packed
in straw and enclosed in wooden
cases. ) The Ionic capitals and
bases are of white marble, the sub-
plinths of black Galway marble.
The roof is well decorated and be-
tween the clerestory windows are
eight fine pictures by Guillardo
who also painted the Stations of
the Cross. The north altar con-

163

tains the piece of the true Cross
and has a beautiful alto relievo of
S.Paul preaching ; the south altar
has an alto relievo of the Sermon
on the Mount. Both of these
were given to Cardinal Cullen by
Pius IX.

Cardinal Cullen is buried in a
crypt under the apse.

Clbnmel House. (Map A).
16 and 17 Harcourt-street. Nos.
15, 18 and 19 are built on its
grounds. At the side of No. 14
may be seen the " bow," with its
windows built
up, from which
Lady Barring-
ton used to
watch those
in the garden
of Clonmel
House. The
annoyance that
this harmless
espionage
caused can now
hardly be un-
derstood, but
this and the
passages at
arms which led
to the building
up of the win-
dows are re-
corded matters
of history.

Clontarf is an

interesting district stretching along
the coast to the north of the city ;
trams starting from Nelson's-pillar
run from end to end of it and give
a pleasant excursion. The city is
left at Annesley-bridge over the
river Tolka ; from this, up to,
perhaps, Mountjoy-square is the
site of the Battle of Clontarf,
1014, when Brian Boroihme
finally broke the power of the
Danes but was himself slain by
the retreating enemy. From this
bridge to the railway embankment

is a large area of shallow water
when the tide is high, and of ill-
smelling mud at all other times ;
a project to reclaim this space and
turn it into a public park is under
consideration. The fine entrance
designed by Cipriani to Marino
is passed. The house is in a
sunken position and is of plain
design; it belongs to the Christian
Brothers. Another building
higher up, presenting a long fron-
tage of red brick with a chapel at
one end, is the O'Brien Institute

THE TEMPLE, MARINO.

for the education of the better
classes who are badly off ; it was
erected from money bequeathed
by Miss O'Brien, and was de-
signed by J. I. O'Callaghan,
F.R.I.A.I. The most interesting
object in Marino (after the woods
which are very fine) is the Temple
or Casino, which can be reached
by following the Malahide road
for half-a-mile. It was designed
for Lord Charlemont by Sir
William Chambers and is of richly
carved Doric ; it is raised on a

164

platform, and has a portico to
each side with statues at the angles.
Carved lions and urns are outside
a deep area from which strangely
extensive vaults open. The stone
is nearly as white as marble, and
the carvings and mouldings are
quite perfect, the interior, however,
is altered.

The Crescent, just beyond
Marino, is said to have been built
to annoy Lord Charlemont and
obstruct his view.

RAHENY CHURCH.

Clontarf Castle, re-built in the
earlier part of this century, stands
on the site of the old castle of the
Knights Templars ; close to it is
the modern church, a pretty
building with a fine spire. The
roads inland are called the " Green

Lanes," and are favourite drives
in spring.

The further part of Clontarf is
called Dollymount; here a bridge
leads to the North Bull (PORT OF
DUBLIN) where are the rifle
range and golf links. It is a
pleasant walk along the Bull wall
to the mouth of the Liffey ; or
Raheny can be reached, and the
fine church erected by Lord
Ardilaun seen.

Clonskeagh, a village 3 miles
from the G.P.O. on the river
Dodder, which affords some
picturesque bits of scenery.
There is a picturesque old
Castle in the neighbourhood.
Clonturk. DRUMCONDRA.
Clubs. (Map A.) The chief
clubs in Dublin are The Kil-
dare-street, at the junction of
Nassau-street and Kildare-
street, a very fine Venetian
Romanesque building, designed
by Messrs. Deane and Wood-
ward, with some quaint car-
vings on the window-sills.
Stephen's-green, north, is the
real clubland of Dublin, and
here are the Stephen's-green
Club, No. 9 ; the Hibernian
United Service Club, No. 8,
with large bow windows ; the
Friendly Brothers of St.
Patrick, No. 22 ; the Uni-
versity Club, No. 1 7 ; and the
Sheridan Club, No. 25.

There are also THE DUBLIN
ARTS CLUB, No. 6, and THE
ROYAL SOCIETY OF ANTI-
QUARIES OF IRELAND, No. 7.
There has been started lately a
joint club, under distinguished pat-
ronage, for ladies and gentlemen
with clubrooms in Suffolk-street.
Other leading Clubs are the
National in Rutland-square and
the Sackville-street Club, No.
59, the most important club on
the north side of the city.

165

S. STEPHEN S GREEN, N.

Coffee Palaces. The Coffee

Palace, Townsend-street (Map B),
was opened by the Dublin Total
Abstinence Society in 1875, and
enlarged in 1886. It is a large
building with a bar and dining-
rooms on the ground floor, library,
reading, and meeting rooms on
the next floor, and still higher up
bedrooms for young men. There
are also chess and billiard rooms,
and a large hall in which temper-
ance meetings, concerts, or scien-
tific lectures are held almost
nightly.

The Coffee Palace is the centre
of numerous branches of work
" to promote the moral and social
well-being of the community with-
out distinction of creed or poli-
tics," and is the publishing office
of a monthly journal entitled Com-
mon Sense.

The North-'Mall Coffee Palace is
a branch of that in Townsend-
street, and is much used by travel-

lers, sailors, and workmen
employed on the quays.

The ten Cabmen's
Shelters and Coffee Stands
are worked by the same
Society.

College-green (Maps
A. and B.), is perhaps as
fine an open space as can
be seen in any city in
Europe. It is surrounded
by magnificent buildings,
which include the Uni-
versity and the Bank of
Ireland. Anciently this
portion of the city was
occupied by a village
named "Hogges," a
Teutonic word which de-
notes sepulchral mounds
like our Irish "dolmens."
Sir James Ware describes
the discovery here, in
1646, of an ancient
sepulchre "composed of
eight black marble stones, of
which two made the covering and
were supported by the others.''
In 1146 a convent, called St.
Mary de Hogges, was erected on
the site now occupied by TRINITY
COLLEGE. Hoggen-green was
the scene of many bloody en-
counters between the men of
Dublin and their invaders ; and
there exist in the ROYAL IRISH
ACADEMY Museum some relics
of ancient weapons (found during
some excavations in 1817) which
are supposed to have been used
during these engagements in the
eleventh century. From an early
period Hoggen-green was the
place of public execution in Dublin.
At the end furthest from Trinity
College stood the Bridewell, as
given in Speed's Map of Dublin,
1610. This was converted into
Trinity Hall and became the first
COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS in
Ireland. The name is still to be

166

seen in Trinity-street. (Map B.)
beside St. Andrew's Church.
Some very famous houses stood
in College-green, chief among
them being, perhaps, Clancarty
House and Chichester House on
the site of the Bank of Ireland.
Before 1818 the General Post
Office occupied the site of the
" Royal Arcade," which was
burned in 1837. This site is now
that of the National Bank. In
College-green, too, was the
superb Daly's Club-house, just at
the corner of Foster-place. Its
fa9ade still remains. This club
was the resort of the famous
Hell-Fire Chib, and was de-
scribed by a writer at the close of
the last century as being a temple
to the god of cards and dice "much
more magnificent than any temple
(in Dublin) devoted to the God of
the Universe"! The building
occupied the entire space between
Foster-place and Anglesea-street.

WILLIAM III.

The remarkable leaden statue of
William III. was erected in
College-green in 1701, and has had

a very precarious existence, partly
owing to the spirit of Jacobitism
and partly from the mere love of
mischief, which is the usual out-
come of college "wines." His
Majesty " of glorious, pious, and
immortal memory " was often to
be seen in the morning minus his
sword, or a limb, or smeared with
filth. The statue was a favourite
meeting-place of Orange Societies
who used to march round it with
colours flying. Later on it be-
came the mustering place of the
Irish Volunteers, who, in 1792,
ceased their annual processions
round the statue, as being calcu-
lated, and very naturally, to
irritate their Catholic fellow-
citizens; but it was not until 1822
that the annual decking of the
figure with orange streamers was
finally abandoned. Amid the
countless insults and injuries in-
flicted on the statue, the most
serious were the attempts to blow
it up. In 1836 the King was
blown completely off his horse and
the figure altogether shattered !
It was however, repaired again
and again, and still remains a
marvellous survival. The modern
College-green has been adorned
by a fine statue of Grattan, by
Foley (A. M.Sullivan handed over
.300 subscribed to compensate
him for political imprisonment,
and so started the fund for this
statue), and the two excellent
figures of Burke and Goldsmith,
which stand in front of the Uni-
versity. Within recent years
great improvements have been
made in the buildings in this part
of the city, and some of the
present buildings will bear com-
parison with those ofnnycityin
the Empire. The great Irish
BANKS congregate here ; and the
Hibernian, the Ulster,- and the
National, have all magnificent

167

offices in College-green, while the
Royal Bank in Foster-place may
be practically regarded as being in
College-green. The BANK OF
IRELAND is dealt with in a sepa-
rate article.

College of Physicians-
Royal. In 1626, King Charles
I. directed the incorporation of a

University, and granted by the
Provost and Fellows ' ' for the sole
and proper use of physicians,," on
condition that they should have the
appointment of President. They
appointed Dr. Stearne to the
office, and then began the long
and intimate connection between
the College and Dublin Univer-'

STATUE HALL, ROYAL COLLEGE OP PHYSICIANS.

College of Physicians in Dublin,
but owing to the unsettled state
of the times no charter was pro-
cured. In 1654, John Stearne,
M.D., Senior Fellow of the Dub-
lin University, founded a body
called "The President and Fra-
ternity of Physicians " at Trinity
Hall (at the south side of Dame-
street), which was a Hall in the

sity, a connection which still
exists.

In 1667 Charles II. granted the
first charter.

In 1692 a new and extended
charter was granted by William
and Mary, from which fact the
College was called " King and
Queen's College of Physicians"
until 1889, when by charter it

168

assumed the name of " Royal Col-
lege of Physicians."

The College met in Trinity Hall
until 1 692, and then in the housesof
the Presidents until Sir Patrick
Dun's Hospital was built in 1808,
when it moved into it and met there
until the present building was
opened in 1864.

The College is built in Kildare-
street, on the site of the Earl of
Portarlington's house, which was
converted into the old Kildare-
street Club, in 1 800, and burned
in 1860: and can be recognised by
its well proportioned portico
(somewhat overshadowed by the
National Library) from the design
of W. C. Murray, son of the
designer of the completed fa9ade
of the COLLEGE OF SURGEONS.
The interior is very effectively
planned, and as the various por-
tions are separated by plate glass
doors, there is, on entering, a
fine /vista from the doorway to the
stained glass window at the far
side of the Convocation Hall.

The first Hall is generally called
the Statue Hall. It is of the
Corinthian order, and is 60 feet in
length by 30 feet in breadth, and
32 feet high. The walls are
divided into bays by pilasters, and
the coved ceiling springs from an
enriched cornice. It contains
statues of past Presidents, which
are all of great merit : Sir Henry
Marsh, Bart., 1866, by Foley ;
R. J. Graves, 1877, by Bruce Joy ;
William Stokes, 1876, by Foley ;
Sir Dominick Corrigan, Bart.,
1869, by Foley. There are also
a number of portraits, the most
interesting being Sir Godfry
Kneller's picture of Sir Patrick
Dun, President frequently be-
tween 1681-1706, and a liberal
benefactor to the College. Under
this portrait hangs the illuminated
certificate of the original grant of

arms in 1667. The arms are a
celestial hand feeling a terrestrial
pulse, with an Irish harp in the
lower compartment. The terres-
trial pulse is now omitted from the
College Arms.

A corridor leads to the Convo-
cation Hall, added to the College
in 1874, from the design of Messrs,
McCurdy and Mitchell. It is
handsome and well proportioned,
being 60 feet in length, 33 feet
in breadth, and 45 feet in height.
It has pilasters, a fine cornice and
an open timter roof. The meet-
ings of the College are held in
this Hall, and the President's
chair, the beautiful mace and the
portraits are worth inspecting.

Over the entrance Hall is the
Library, which is not large, the
want of College buildings having
long been a bar to the formation
of an extensive collection of books.

Amongst other chartered privi-
leges, the Fellows are exempt from
being chosen to the offices of
"Constable. Scavenger and such
like." They also may sign
prescriptions with their initials
without adding their degree and
where they obtained it.

Visitors can see the College
Halls at any time, unless the Col-
lege is sitting or examinations are
being held.

College of Surgeons
Royal. The College of Sur-
geons claims descent from the first
incorporation of medical practi-
tioners in the United Kingdom :
the Fraternity or Guild of Barbers
established by Royal Charter in
Dublin on i8th October, 1446, by
King Henry VI. A later charter
which is preserved in Trinity Col-
lege was granted by Queen
Elizabeth in 1572.

The real history of the College
dates from the 29th March, 1780,
when a number of surgeons con-

169

stitued themselves into the " Dub-
lin Society of Surgeons." On the
nth February, 1784, they pro-
cured a charter dissolving them
from the union with the barbers,
and establishing them as a corpor-
ate body by themselves. For
some time they met in the Rotunda
Hospital, but like the sister
College, had to go to various
places until they built a per-
manent house of their
own.

In 1809 a College was
built on the Friends' burial-
ground on the west side of
S. Stephen's-green, having
frontages to the green and
York-street. This forms the
south wing of the present
building, the frontage of
which was completed from a
design by Wm. Murray in
1827.

The exterior of the Col-
lege is of great beauty and
worthy of its splendid posi-
tion. From a rusticated
base of granite, Doric col-
umns rise ; the four central
ones are advanced and support
an entablature and pediment ;
three-quarter columns adorn the
wings. Between the columns are
large circular-headed windows, and
the whole is surmounted by a frieze
and cornice, terminated by a balus-
trade. The apex of the pediment
is adorned by a figure of ^Escula-
pius, supported by Minerva on the
right and Hygeia on the left.
These figures, and the royal arms
in the tympanum are by J. Smyth,
R.H.A.

The hall contains a statue of
William Dease (one of the most
energetic of the founders of the
College), executed in 1886 by
Farrell, R.H.A. ; the inner hall
to the left is really the hall of the
original building. Both halls con-

tain a large number of busts of
former Fellows.

The Examination Hall is large
but gloomy. As originally built,
it was wanting in height, and in
1859 it was altered. As there was
a museum above it, it was enlarged
downwards, and a double flight of

STATUE OP WILLIAM DBASE.

stairs leads from the door down to
the present floor level. At the
same time a bust of the Prince
Consort was placed in a niche, and
the room was named the Albert
Hall.

The Library is a handsome
apartment, and contains a fine
collection of books. Upstairs is
a large boardroom, the walls of
which are covered with portraits,
and there are two museums, one
of comparative anatomy and one
of anatomy and pathology, the
latter was enlarged in 1886.
There is also a collection of wax
anatomical models presented by
the Viceroy in 1829, and called
after him, the Northumberland
Museum.

The Medical School (MEDICAL

170

SCHOOLS) was nearly rebuilt in
1891, and the electric light intro-
duced ; in most of its departments
it is now worthy of the prestige of
the College.

Visitors have no difficulty in
seeing the College buildings.
College of Science,
Royal, in S. Stephen's-green,
east (Map B.) is under the con-
trol of the South Kensington
authorities. It employs professors
who lecture on Geology, Botany,
Zoology, Physics, Chemistry, &c. ,
but the classes are by no means
so well attended as the excellence
of the teaching merits. The aim of
the lecturers is to supply a course
of instruction in matters pertaining
chiefly to Irish industries ; the
original aim of the Museum.

founded in 1 8 , being to exhibit

the materials and sources of all
industries found in Ireland. This
Museum is well worthy of the
attention of the stranger, who is
interested in geology or in paleon-
tology ; the collection of fossils
is particularly fine. The exhibits
of manufactures, both Irish and
British, are arranged in a historic
and scientific manner, so that their
educational value is much en-
hanced and the rise and progress
of each branch of industry may
be distinctly traced. There is a
collection of china which is very
well worthy of study, and many
choice examples of enamel work.
The Entrance Hall is adorned
with slabs of our Irish marbles,
the Galway green, Kilkenny
black, and Cork red, being
perhaps the most beautiful.
There is an excellent Library of
scientific works attached to the
College, and a fair-sized Theatre
for demonstrations. There are,
in short, few buildings in Dublin
which will better repay a visit,
and we might add that few of our

important buildings are less ap-
preciated by the citizens for whose
benefit they were constructed.
Commerce. Dublin is not,
perhaps, a very important com-
mercial city, but at the close of
last century, the accommodation
provided by the quayage on the
river proved so inadequate, that
a special grant of ^45,000 was
made by Parliament to form docks
beside the river- These docks
are capable of accommodating

A STREET STALL.

40,000 tons of shipping, while the
North Wall extension and the
breakwater provide 4,500 feet of
berthage. Besides the docks held
by the Dublin Port and Docks
Board, three private docks exist,
in which toll is charged on the
vessels discharging. Of these the
most important is the Spencer
Dock, which enables cross-channel
steamers, and other shipping,
to pass from the river alongside
the railway or canal-boat. This
great work has been carried out

17T

by the Midland G.W.R. Com-
pany; and the G.S.W.R. and the
Dublin and Drogheda line have
obtained power to connect their
Systems with the Liffey Branch
Railway of the Midland Company.
The chief export of Dublin is
Porter, of which the average export
is about 430,000 hogsheads.
Whiskey also is largely exported.
Horses and other live stock make
a large total ; other exports are
wool (1891, value of export
.54,827) and chemical manures
(1891, value of export 16,760).
The imports of grain, flour and
varied foreign or colonial produce
amounted in 1891 to 983,482
tons.

Commercial Buildings
(Map A.) The Commercial Build-
ings Company was incorporated
1798. They have a building with
a fine granite face three stories
in height, surmounted by a
heavy cornice, in Dame-street.
There is a central hall and stair-
case, with a fine library and
reading-room. In the rere is a
spacious court, with another en-
trance from Cope street, sur-
rounded by offices occupied by
brokers, insurance and other
agents.

Concerts. It has been long a
boast that the Irish are the musical
people /ar excellence, and that the
imprimatur of a critical Dub-
lin audience stamps an artist.
Nevertheless, partly owing to
want of money, and partly to
proverbial jealousies of musicians,
local musical societies languish,
and a well-filled house is the ex-
ception, not the rule. The Dublin
Musical Society, for many
years under the conductorship of
Joseph Robinson, kept up a
high standard of excellence in
orchestral music, chiefly oratorio.
Its choir of 300 voices, with a fine

band, was a credit to the city,
and it would be a matter of deep
shame if the society be allowed to
drop. The concerts are, by per-
mission of the authorities of the
ROYAL UNIVERSITY, given in the
great Hall at Earlsfort-terrace.
The S. Patrick's Oratorio Society,
whose performances were given in
the Cathedral in aid of the Cathe-
dral funds, has been unfortunately,
prohibited, and the Glee Choir
which used to provide three most
enjoyable concerts during the
season, is also gone, like its proto-
type, the famous "Glee and
Madrigal." The College Choral
is, of course, a private society ;
as is "The Strollers." who
occasionally give "At Homes,"
for which invitations are eagerly
sought. The best instrumental
chamber music is now to be heard
at the afternoon Recitals of the
ROYAL DUBLIN SOCIETY in
Kildare-street ; but it can hardly
be denied that the ordinary Dublin
concert-goer cares immensely
more to hear vocal gymnastics by
some "star" or the last new
song of the Milton Wellings type,
than to listen to concerted music
of any description, whether vocal
or instrumental. Concerts at popu-
lar prices have been revived
within the past few years, and
have been attended with reason-
able success. At them Dubliners
have the opportunity of hearing
all theleading vocalistsand instru-
mentalists. Cramer of West-
moreland-street and M. Gunn,
the proprietor of the Gaiety
Theatre and Leinster Hall, also
cater for the musical public. The
Dublin Instrumental Club has a
fine orchestra. The Club-room
is at 9 Merrion-row.
Conciliation Hall. The
building close to the CORN EX-
CHANGE on Burgh-quay, now used

172

as a corn store, was named Con-
ciliation Hall by O'Connell, and
its vails often re-echoed to his
eloquence. The gilded harp and
shamrock on the ceiling of the
upper loft still testify to its former
.use. On the outside is the date
1843.
Consuls.

American Consulate Office 204

Great Brunswick-street.
Argentine Republic 19 North

Earl-street.

Austria 194 Great Brunswick-
street.

Belgium 17 Eden-quay.
Bolivia 46 Dame-street.
Brazil 25 Mespil-road.
Chili i & 2 Westmoreland-st.
Denmark Northumberland

House, Northumberland-road
France 31 South Anne-street.
German Empire 17 Eden-quay.
Italy 105 Stephen's-green, south.
Mexico 46 Dame-street.
Netherlands 124 Abbey-st., up.
Portugal i College-street.
Spain i & 2 Westmoreland-st.
Russia 30 Eden-quay.
Uruguay and Monte Video 49

Fitzwilliam-square.
Convalescent Homes.
The Convalescent Home,Stillorgan,
was founded in 1868, a wing in
memory of Judge and Miss
Berwick being added in 1870. A
pay wing for those who can afford
a little has lately been added. It
is a handsome building and stands
on high ground near the railway,
looking down on the distant sea
in front, and up to the Dublin
mountains behind. Most of the
inmates are sent from the Dublin
hospitals.

Lind*^ Blackrock. The house
was given by F. Coppinger and
was endowed by the late M.
Mullins. Twenty-five beds are
reserved for patients from S.
Vincent's Hospital.

The Meath Hospital Convalescent
Home is situated at Bray.

S. John's House of Rest,
Merrion, is a beautiful building,
homelike in its arrangements, into
which convalescents and those in
need of rest are admitted. It was
founded 1870, removed to the
present building 1880, and has
since been enlarged and a chapel
added.

Convents. There are a number
of Convents in Dublin ; most of
them are associated with works of
mercy or of education. The fol-
lowing are the most important :

Sisters of Charity, Upper
Gardiner-street Stanhope-street
S. Joseph's Hospital for Sick
Children S. Vincent's Hospital
Our Lady's Hospice for the
Dying.

Sisters of Mercy, Lower Baggot-
street Tervis-street Hospital Du
Bon Secours, Mount-street.

Loretto, North Great George's-
street S. Stephen's-green, E.

Carmelite, S. Joseph's, Rane-
lagh.

Poor Clares, Harold's Cross Or-
phanage.

Sisters of S. Dominick, Cabra.
Corn Exchange. (Maps B
& C.) The Corn Exchange Build-
ings Company was incorporated
in 1815, and soon afterwards the
present building on Burgh-quay
was erected. It has a heavy
granite front, two stories in height.
The large hall is 130 feet long,
the centre is divided from the
sides by ranges of metal pillars,
and light is obtained by a
continuous clerestory above the
entablature forming a lantern the
size of the central space. It is
furnished with sample tables.
Market days, Tuesday and Friday
11.30 to 1.30.

Corporation. In 1172 Henry
II. granted to Dublin its first

173

Charter with the same privileges
as Bristol then enjoyed, through
the instrumentality of Strongbow,
who was at this time governing
Ireland. This Charter of Henry
II. is still preserved in the CITY
HALL and is a superb example
of illuminated work which the
visitor should endeavour to see.
A second Charter was granted
to Dublin in 1192 by John, Lord
of Ireland, youngest son of
Henry II., and in 1207 yet
another Charter was given by King
John. The Magna Charta was
granted to Ireland by Henry III.
in 1216, and in the following year
fee-farm of the city was granted to
the citizens, and the Charter of
King John was further confirmed
in 1227. In 1287, Edward I. gave
a new Charter, and permission
was given in 1407 to the Mayor of
the city to have a gilt sword carried
before him as before the Lord
Mayor of London. The Charter
was confirmed in 1607, and in 1660
a gold collar of SS. was presented
by Charles II. to the Mayor who
was granted also a foot com-
pany as escort. Five years later
the title of Lord Mayor was con-
ferred as in London, and in lieu
of the foot company ^"500 was
granted to him. In 1687 James
II. renewed the Charter on a quo
warranto. The Collar of SS.
was lost in the troubles of 1 688,
and in 1697 King William III.
presented to the then Lord Mayor
a new collar of similar make with
a miniature of the King attached
to it.

The meetings of the Corpora-
tion were held in the THOLSEL
which stood at the north-east
corner of S. NICHOLAS-STREET,
and was built originally in the
reign of Edward II. , and rebuilt in
1683, with its main front to
Skinner's-row. In 1 793 the Corpo-

ration acquired the house in
William-street, at the corner of
Coppinger's-row, which is used to
the present day as Lord Mayor's
Court of Conscience ; and in this
house they held their meetings
until the removal in 1852 to the
present CITY HALL. The Cor-
poration was reformed in 1841,
and consists of a Lord Mayor, 15
Aldermen, and 45 Councillors.
Corporation Records.
In the Muniment Room of the
CITY HALL are stored many
archaeological curiosities of ex-
treme value. Among the most
famous MSS. belonging to the
city are " The White Book " con-
taining some 145 pages of records
of the city during the sixteenth
and seventeenth centuries : next
in importance may come "The
Black Book," also called " The
Chain Book,'' of which the records
many of which are sadly defaced
run from the fourteenth down
to the beginning of the eighteenth
century. " The Recorder's Book "
claims to be a copy made in 1667
of all the Charters of the city; but
it is not very accurate. "The
Charters," of which there are
more than 100 in all, give a full
account of the rise of our civic
life, and are of supreme value as
also are the Assembly Rolls which
are continuous from 1448 down to
1841, since which time the
minutes of the Corporation have
been entered in books. Hidden
away in these documents are
abundant materials to delight the
antiquarian and the archaeologist ;
and it is one more proof among
many, of our neglect of what is of
interest in our own land that no
one has as yet undertaken to
publish the vast masses of topo-
graphical and biographical infor-
mation stored in these old-time
records.

Courts of Justice FOUR

COURTS.

Cooley, Thomas. Thomas
Cooley (1744-1784) came to
Dublin in 1769, when his design
for the ROYAL EXCHANGE was
accepted. He afterwards built the
Hibernian Marine Schools, New-
gate in Green-street (1773-1780),
and commenced the FOUR
COURTS, completing the west
wing and its south facade.

Crampton Memorial.
(Map B.) The Crampton Me-
morial at the junction of College-
street with Gt. Brunswick-street
and D'Olier-street, was erected
from the design of J. Kirk, R.H.A.
A paper of 1862 states: "The
sculptor hopes it will be a monu-
ment to himself as well as to Sir
P. Crampton." It is generally
called the "Water Babe," but
less flattering names have been
applied.

It consists of a stone base with
three drinking fountains ; above
rises a tall pyramid of bron/.e built
up of water lilies and other
aquatic plants ; swans and a bust
of Crampton nestle in the foliage.
It is a curious production. The
following inscription was com-
posed by Lord Carlisle :
This fountain has been placed

here,

A type of health and usefulness,
By the friends and admirers
Of Sir Philip Crampton, Bart.,
Surgeon-General to Her Majesty's

Forces.

It but feebly represents
The sparkle of his genial fancy,
The depth of his calm sagacity,
The clearness of his spotless

honour,

The flow of his boundless bene-
volence.

Cricket. The leading clubs of
Dublin are the University C. C.,
Phcenix C. C., Vice- Regal C. C.,

Leinster C. C.. and the Garrison.
Cricket has, for various causes,
never become a popular game in
Ireland, but the clubs mentioned
above maintain a good standard and
can hold their own as a rule against
any English County Team, except
those of the first rank. The
College -park is the best place in
Ireland to see good cricket, and
some excellent play may be wit-
nessed there.

Cromlechs, The following
Cromlechs are close to Dublin :
Glen-Druid, Carrickmines (top
stone 1 8 feet by 6 feet) ; Howth
(between castle and S. Finton's
church) ; Zoological gardens
(removedfrom Knockmaroon hill);
Kilternan; Shankill; Mount Venus
(top stone 15 feet by 9 feet by 5
feet).

Crosses. The following ancient
Crosses are within easy reach of
Dublin : Finglas, Rathmichael,
Kilgobbin, Kill-of-the-Grange, S.
Olave's, Carrickmines, Blackrock
and S. Doulough's. There is also
a fragment at Tallaght. The
splendid Crosses of MONASTER-
BOICE, though further away, can
be easily reached in a day's ex-
cursion.

Custom House. (Map B.)
The old Custom House (1707),
successor to the Old Crane (ClTV
WALLS), stood near Essex-bridge,
where an arm of the Liffey ran in
to join the Poddle ; and when
its decay and want of accommo-
dation rendered it useless, the
building of the South Mole allowed
its successor to be built further
down the river where ships had
ready access.

The present building stands on
the north side of the river, sepa-
rated from the water by a wide
quay, and with a wide open space
at the back. It is built of granite
and Portland stone, and is one of

175

the finest buildings in Dublin. It
was designed by James Gandon,
and built in 1781-1791, at a certi-
fied cost of over 257,000, the
docks and quay costing .140,000
in addition. It is in the Doric
style, measures 375 ft. x 205 ft.,
and forms an oblong with two
internal courts, separated by a
central pile of building.

The south front facing the river
is composed of end pavilions
united by arcades to the centre

CUSTOM HOUSE.

portico, which has a deep enta-
blature and bold projecting cor-
nice. The frieze over the portico
bears oxes heads festooned with
their skins. In the tympanum is
sculpture representing the friendly
union of Great Britain and Ire-
land ; they are embracing each
other in a shell car drawn by sea-
horses, and attended by tritons
and merchant ships. On the attic
story are statues of Neptune,

Plenty, Industry, and Mercury, by
Thomas Banks, R.A. Behind
the portico rises a richly pillared
cupola ; the dome, 26ft. in dia-
meter, is covered with copper,
and over it, standing on a circular
pedestal, is a figure of Hope 12
ft. high and 113 ft. from the
ground. Each end pavilion has
two tall recessed pillars, which
give a look of cohesion to the
storeys.

The north front has a central
portico of four
columns, but no
pediment ; on the
entablature are
statues represent-
ing Europe, Asia,
Africa, and Ame-
rica; there are
recessed columns
in the end pavi-
lions. The carved
royal arms at the
ends were done by
Ed. Smyth, and
were the works
which first made
his reputation. He
also did the sixteen
carved heads over
the building, re-
presenting the
rivers of Ireland.
The female head
stands for Anna
Liffey.

The interior is

disappointing although lined
throughout by cut stone, as, being
divided into storeys, and containing
numerous offices, only small por-
tions can be seen at once. The
stairs are cleverly constructed, the
upper flight seeming unsupported.
The Long Room, 7oft. x 7oft.,
has two rows of pillars; the
centre compartment has an arched
roof, and the side compartmems
flat roofs. In 1856 a banquet was

176

given in this room to 3,000 Cri.
mean soldiers.

The open space to the north of

here, in 1840, Father Mathew ad-
ministered the pledge to thousands
from the steps.

IN THE DARGLE.

the Custom House is called Ber-
esford-place ; public meetings
have often been held in it, and

Butt Bridge and the Ixx p Line
have greatly spoiled the appear-
ance of the Custom House.

177

Dal key, Smiles from Dublin, on
the coast between KINGSTOWN
and BRAY, was so long ago as
1300 a famous city, and the chief
port of Dublin. It possessed
seven castles, of which two are still
to be seen. One is in ruins, but
the second, after restoration, is
used as the Town Hall. These
old castellated dwellings have
been pronounced by competent
authorities the oldest and finest
structures of their kind in the
British Isles. Although called
castles they are not military
strongholds, but dwellings of the
merchant princes, and are believed
to have been erected as early as
the close of the twelfth century.

Dalkey Island, distant about
half a mile from land, was famous
during the end of last century as
the scene of a mock royal court,
in which many of the leading
Dublin wits assembled and elected
one of their number King of
Dalkey !

The picturesque situation of
Dalkey and its beautiful sea and
mountain views combine to render
it one of the most attractive of
our many watering places. As
the railway does not here run
along the coast, Dalkey has
escaped the injury which the rail-
way line has done to all the bath-
ing places ne;irer to the capital.
During the summer there are
bands constantly at Sorrento, and
there is no part, of the ex-
quisite Bay of Dublin, which can
boast attractions superior to those
found here. It is, however, very
much to be regretted that almost
all the foreshore has been taken
for building purposes by private
persons, so that the public are cut
off from access to this beautiful
portion of the Bay.
Dargle. This beautiful glen in
the Co. Wicklow is about a mile

long, and is a rocky and wooded
gorge through which the river from
Lough Bray flows to Bray. The
Dargle can best be seen by driv-
ing from Bray to Enniskerry, 3^
miles through lovely scenery ; the
fare by long car (starting from
Bray station) is 6d. each, but a
party of four can take an outside
car at a little over that rate. From
Enniskerry, the upper end of the
Dargle is entered, and fine views
of the Wicklow Mountains are
obtained. A pleasant afternoon
can be spent rambling down the
Glen past the picturesque bridge
over the river, by which the
WATER SUPPLY is carried to
Dublin, the Lover's Leap, the
Fairies' Pool, and the other objects
of interest. The Upper or
Herbert-road (reached by foot-
path through woods) should be
taken back to Bray. Tea can be
had at the Dargle gate ; and any-
one who is tired can generally get a
seat on a car for the journey home.

Deaf and Dumb. The

chief charities for the deaf and
dumb are the Catholic Institution
for the Deaf and Dumb, Cabra,
founded 1846, about 400 inmates.
The National Association for the
Education of the Deaf and Dumb
Children of the Poor in Ireland
(Protestant), Claremont, Glas-
nevin, founded 1816, about 50
inmates. Protestant Deaf and
Dumb Association for working
amongst adults.

Denmark-street, Great
( Map C), was partofGardiner's-row
until 1792. The following were
owners of the houses : i . (Tulla-
more House), Baron Tullamore,
afterwards Earl of Charleville.
3. Lord Norbury (the "hang-
ing judge"). 4. Earl of Erne. 5.
(Killeen House) Earl of Fingall.
6. BELVIDERE HOUSE. 7. Lord
Aldboroogh.

ITS

Devil's Glen, County Wicklow.
Train to Newrath station on the
D. W. & W. Railway (29^ miles),
and thence by car to the Glen
(3^ miles). The Glen is a ravine
through which the river VARTRY
flows, the rocky banks rising some
300 or 400 feet are clothed with
trees, and the pathway runs at the
bottom of the Glen. At the
upper end the pathway rises and
there are fine views of the Water-
fall and of the Wicklow Moun-
tains. The best plan is to
return by car to Bray, a drive of
some twelve miles. Newtown-
mountkennedy, Delgany, and the
beautiful GLEN OF THE DOWNS
are passed through.

Dispensaries. Dublin is well
provided with Dispensaries under
the care of the North and South
Dublin Unions ; many of the
HOSPITALS (general and special)
also, have Dispensaries, and, as
there is no widespread feeling
against receiving free medical re-
lief, Provident Dispensaries are
few.

Dogs' and Cats' Home,
Grand Canal Quay. The Cats'
Home was founded in 1885, by
Miss Swifte and R. B. Kennett.
The Dogs' Home is under the
management of the S.P.C.A.
Stray cats and dogs are taken in
and cared for : those of value are
sold, and the useless and hope-
lessly diseased are mercifully
destroyed. Cats are boarded
whilst families are in the country,
at is. per week (6d. for kittens) ;
and get three meals daily. Sick
dogs are carefully treated. Open
10-4 daily.

Dolly mount CLONTARF.

Dominick-street (Map C.)
called after Christopher Dominick,
M.D. (an ancestor of the Duke of
Leinster), who died in 1 743. Be-
fore 1727, he had built himself a

house in the newly laid out street,
which is now No. 20, and used by
S. Mary's Parish for schools ; it is
the largest house in the street,
being five windows wide. There
is handsome stucco work of fe-
male figures in the hall, a fine
wooden staircase, and well carved
wooden architraves over the draw-
ing-room doors. The Duke of
Leinster uses No. 13 as a town
residence. No. 40 has a good
stone doorway. Sir W. Rowan
Hamilton was born in No. 36 in
1805.

Dorset Institution. (Map
C.) The Dorset Institution occu-
pies a fine old house, No. 54
Upper Sackville-street. It is
unsectarian, and the respectable
poor are helped by orders for
needlework, &c. There is a de-
pository where plain and fancy
work is sold for the benefit of
reduced ladies.

Doulough Church of S.
About six miles from Dublin, on
the Malahide-road, and about
four miles from Malahide, is the
most interesting stone-roofed
church in Ireland. It probably
dates trom the I3th century, and
is oblong in plan, with a square
tower in the middle. The in-
terior is divided into several com-
partments, of which the largest
was a chapel. The upper rooms
were used as living rooms. The
lower part of the tower is co-eval
with the church, but the upper
is either an addition or rebuilt.
The stone-roof, of high pitch, is
in capital preservation. A
modern church is built at the
side, and the old building is care-
fully preserved. In a field close by
is a well, which is covered by an
octagonal stone building, with a
stone roof. It was probably used
as a baptistery. A curious bath-
like structure, called, " S.

179

Catherine's Pond," is also to be
seen, and at the entrance to the
short by-road leading to the
church is an ancient stone-cross.

by the Royal Irish Academy
with so little regard to the his-
torical importance of their ex-
ploration that no official records

. DOULUUGH S CHUKCH.

Dowth, a tumulus on the
northern banks of the Boyne,
about five miles from DROGHEDA.
The tumulus was opened in 1847

of the excavations exist. Some
curious stone and amber beads,
and other interesting relics were
found. There is historic evidence

180

that all the tumuli on the Boyne
were plundered by Danes about
the middle of the ninth century.
The plan of Dowth is, like that of
NEWGRANGE, cruciform, the en-
trance passage being 27 feet in
length. Slabs of stone, called sill-
stones, stand directly across the
passage at intervals, and at the
entrance of the main chamber,
as well as at the entrance
to the recess opposite, as
well as at the openings of other
chambers in this mound. Pos-
sibly they may have had some
such use as the basins at New-
grange. Beyond the right arm
of the cross are two other cham-
bers, with recesses, while a com-
pletely distinct chamber may be
entered by a separate entrance, a
few yards to the right of the main
entrance. Keys can be got at the
cottage beside the tumulus.
Drives within easy reach of
Dublin are very numerous ; and
a short list of the most interesting
places which may be visited on a
car may prove useful. The dis-
tances are given from the
G.P.O. :

MILES

CARTON DEMESNE ... i 5

CLONSILLA 8

*DARGLE 14

DUNSINK 4 |

*ENNISKERRY nl

GLENASMOLE 10

GLENDRUID Q

LUCAN ga

MALAHIDE (passing S Doulough's) 9
MAYNOOTH I5

'POWERSCOURT DEMESNE 14

S. DOULOUGH'S CHURCH 6

SALMON LEAP (Leixlip) i o

*SCALP 12

SWORDS j

*More easily reached by taking

tram to BRAY (n miles), and car from

that on.

The coast of Dublin Bay is all
beautiful ; and picturesque scenery
can be enjoyed at almost every
station on the D.W. & W. line.

Killiney Hill and Bray Head on
the south side of the Bay, and
Howth Head on the north, can-
not be seen to full advantage
while driving ; but the visitor
should on no account omit to
walk round these famous head-
lands, where from paths which
overhang the sea many exquisite
views are obtained of sea and
rock, with distant mountains and
waving woods, all uniting to form
an enchanting panorama. Another
good centre from which many
fine drives may be enjoyed is
Rathnew, a station on the
D.W. & W. Railway, 30 miles
from town. From it the DEVIL'S
GLEN, the Vartry, and Lough
Dan district are within easy reach,
as indeed is GLENDALOUGH, for
which, however, Rathdrum (37
miles) is a more convenient
station. The world-famous
" Meeting of the Waters," is
within a few miles of Rathdrum.
It is wiser to take a car for long
trips by the day, the fare being
approximately 135., with a few
shillings extra for the driver.
The stranger will do well to settle
definitely with the driver as to
his fare (including driver's fee)
before starting.

Drogheda, though not in Dub-
lin, is so important a centre from
which to see the remarkable anti-
quities of NEWGRANGE, DOWTH,
MELLI FONT and MONASTERBOICE
that a few words will be accept-
able concerning this historic town
itself. Situated on the Boyne, 31^
miles north of Dublin, Drogheda
has an excellent trade, chiefly
with Liverpool. The town was
originally strongly fortified, and
two of the old gates still remain.
That called St. Lawrence's Gate is
a conspicuous object at the end of
the main street of the town. It
consists of two very lofty towers,

181

circular in form and connected by
a wall. The other remaining
gate, called the West Gate, is
octagonal, and, like St. Lawrence
Gate, is pierced with numerous
loop holes. Chief among other
objects of interest to a stranger in
Drogheda may be mentioned the
graceful Magdalen Steeple, the
sole remnant

thence to Slane, with its fine
castle and numerous interesting
ruins. On the Hill of Slane S.
Patrick first kindled the beacon
fire of Christianity in Ireland.
Slane and its neighbourhood can-
not fail to charm the archaeologist
or the artist, and he will, indeed,
be hard to please who is not

LAWBXEtOI GATE, DKOGHEDA.

two miles from the town. The
Battle of the Boyne was
fought on July 1st, 1690, and the
Obelisk stands on the spot where
William's forces crossed the
stream. It is then open to the
visitor to drive straight on to
DOWTH and NEWGRANGE and

delighted with so fair a panorama
as the country all along the banks
of the Boyne will disclose. Ex-
quisite scenery of every kind,
romantic ruins, prehistoric monu-
ments and early Christian remains,
castles, abbeys, crosses and round-
towers lend a charm to every mile

182

of the way from Drogheda to
Trim. If the visitor's time is
limited to a single day, he must
perforce confine his tour within a
narrower radius, and from New-
grange he can readily drive to the
historic Abbey of MELLIFONT,
founded in 1 142. The interest of

DROGHEDA.

the place is enhanced from its
connection with Dearvorgilla,
wife of O'Ruarke, Prince of
Breffni, whose frailty was the
cause of the original invasion of
Ireland by the Saxon. From Mel-
lifont it is but two miles to MON-
ASTERBOICE, with its glorious ex-
amples of Celtic remains. The

tourist who wishes to include in
one day's trip the main objects
given above must leave Dublin by
the 9 a.m. train from Amiens-
street and hire a car for the day,
taking care to come to a definite
agreement with the driver. The
usual arrangement is approxi-
mately 8d. a mile
outwards and 4d.
return. A fine
railway viaduct
crosses the Boyne
at a height of 95
feet.

Drogheda
House. (Map
C). Upper Sack-
ville - street was
formerly called
Drogheda - street
after the owner of
the soil, Henry
Moore, Earl of
Drogheda, whose
names and title
are still recalled
by neighbouring
streets. No. 10,
occupied by the
Hibernian Bible
Society since early
in the century, is
part of Drogheda
House, which had
passed out of the
Drogheda family,
but in 1771 was
repurchased from
Lord Dartiy for
,5,000, It is well
preserved ; its hall,
staircase, and ground-floor rooms
are well worth seeing as examples
of beautiful wood and stucco
work ; the carving of the door-
cases is especially good. No. 9
passed into the hands of Currey
the publisher in 1824; in 1867
rebuilt by an Insurance Company,
it is now the offices of the Tramway

183

Company, and was part of Drog-
heda House, but there are no
marks of closed doorways, so
probably the house was divided
soon after 1771 and before the
stucco work was done.
Drumcondra. The village of
Drumcondra, two miles to the
north of Dublin on the SWORDS
road, is situated on the banks of
the river Tolka about a mile be-
lowGLASNEViN. It was sometimes
called Clonturk (plain of the
Tolka), and was once inhabited
by wealthy families (including two
Lord Chancellors and a Primate)
whose houses remain, but are now
occupied by religious orders. The
house to the left on crossing the
bridge was Belvidere, the seat of
the Coghill family. In the early
part of the century it was turned
into a kind of Vauxhall, and
in 1812 Sadleir ascended from the
grounds in a balloon, falling into
the Irish Channel and being saved
by a vessel running her bowsprit
through the balloon. The house
at the opposite side of the road
has lately been turned into a
place of amusement under the
name of Clonturk-park, and a few
years ago Baldwin ascended from
the grounds and descended in a
parachute a curious coincidence
the first balloon ascent and first
parachute descent happening at
the same place, but with an
interval of 80 years. The
balustrade in front of Clonturk
House belonged to old Carlisle
bridge. Drumcondra Church is
a small plain building behind
Clontuik-park; it contains a hand-
some monument to Marmaduke
Coghill, ob. 1738, Chancellor of
the Exchequer (by whose sister the
church was built). The Chancellor
is sitting with Minerva standing
at one side and Religion at the
other. In the churchyard lie

many notable people ; in the same
grave lie Gandon, architect of the
Custom House, and Grose the
antiquary. It was of the latter
that Burns wrote " A chiel's
amang you taking notes. "

Drummond Institute.
This excellent institution for the
orphan daughters of soldiers was
founded in 1864, by the will of
Alderman Drummond, and is situ-
ated in two houses at Mulberry-
hill, Chapelizod. It is under the
control of a large board of gover-
nors, chiefly military, and the
benevolent intentions of the
testator are admirably carried out.

Dunsink Observatory.
The Observatory of Dublin Uni-
versity, distant some four miles
from Dublin, beyond the Phcenix-
park will repay a visit. The
Observatoiy, founded in 1782 by
money bequeathed by Provost
Andrews for that purpose, stands
300 feet above sea level, and the
Professor of Astronomy, appointed
by Dublin University, has by
special grant the title Astronomer
Royal of Ireland. This Observa-
tory possesses probably the largest
great circle graduated all round
that exists. The diameter is 8
feet and over 23 years were taken
to make and erect the instrument,
which, however, is not any longer
in use. The chair of Astronomy
was held first by Dr. Ussher, who
was succeeded by Dr. Brinkley,
afterwards Bishop of Cloyne.
Brinkley was succeeded by the
world-famous William Rowan
Hamilton who was appointed to
the chair, while an undergraduate
of twenty-two years old ! This
truly marvellous man laboured in
Dunsink for some 40 years work-
ing at his mighty system of
Quaternions. Among other Royal
Astronomers of Ireland may be
mentioned, Sir Robert Ball, now

184

Professor of Astronomy in Cam-
bridge.

The present occupant of the
chair is Dr. Arthur Rambaut,
D.Sc. The Observatory is now
fitted with an excellent meridian
circle and a very fine Equatorial,
the gift of Sir James South. The
chief addition in late years has
been a superb reflecting telescope
for photographic purposes, pre-
sented by Isaac Roberts,
F.R.S., and by this timely gift
Dunsink is able to take its proper
place in the photographic survey
of the heavens, which is now being
carried on.

Eccles-Street, called after
Alderman John Eccles who
bought the Ballyboght property
in 1703 (this property formerly
belonged to James II.) ; his name
appears on the pedestal of King
William's statue, as Sheriff, 1701.
Little S. GEORGE'S CHURCH
was a private chapel erected on
the grounds of Mount Eccles (the
house stood near where Middle
Gardiner-street now is). Tyrawley
House, now 18 and 19 Eccles-st.,
stood in its own grounds leased from
the Eccles family the carriage
entrance has been built up and
doorways opened (1847) on the
street side ; it passed out of the
hands of the Tyrawley family,
1809. In No. 63 Sir Boyle Roche
lived. No. 64 is a double house,
one part being decorated by groups
in bas relief; this part was added
for his own use by F. JOHNSTON,
architect of S. George's Church,
&c., and contains a fine octagonal
room, oak room, and fine mantel-
pieces. The stable is built
with a perpendicular Gothic
tower, and contains some
curious Spanish wood-work. (S.
GEORGE'S CHURCH.)

The top of the street was laid
out as a Royal Circus early in this

century, with the intention of
rivalling Merrion-square, and is so
marked on the maps ; but only
the dwarf wall for the railings
was built. The upper part of
Eccles-street, and the MATER-
MISERICORDI^ HOSPITAL inter-
sect the Circus.

Education. Ireland in the past
may be said to have had no public
schools comparable to the great
English foundations a circum-
stance which may in some measure
account for the astounding fact
that even to the present day
Irish gentry are in the habit of
sending their sons to second rate
English schools, from which they
return to enter Dublin University !
The most famous attempt to
remedy this defect in our educa-
tional appliances was the Feinag-
lian Institution, so called from a
German scholar (Von Feinagle)
who visited Dublin in 1813 to
lecture on Mnemonics and Educa-
tion. He was induced by the
leading men of the city to remain
here in order to put his methods
to a practical test. ALDBOROUGH
HOUSE was secured for the avowed
intention of " inducing the resi-
dent gentlemen of Ireland to
educate their sons in their native
country, and thereby averl those
immediate and remote effects
which too often follow from the
opposite practice." The Institu-
tion flourished for a very consider-
able time, but has long ceased to
exist. Whatever the difficulties
may have been in 1813 about an
Irish education for Irish boys,
there can be no question that
now Dublin is amply supplied
with good schools of every possible
class, capable of giving an educa-
tion distinctly equal, if not superior
to that given in any English
school ; but in prestige and social
position, both of the school and

185

the schoolmaster, much is yet left
to be desired ; and it is lamentable
indeed to see so many Irish
boys still sent to England year
after year to acquire only a veneer
of English accent, and a snobbish
disdain for all that is Irish.

The largest public schools in
Dublin at present are the High
School of Erasmus Smith in
Harcourt-street, and the Wesley
College in S. Stephen's-green;
but the boys of the upper classes
are for the most part educated at
some of the numerous private
schools which abound in the city.
At SANTRY, some 3^ miles from
the city, is a large school founded
by the Incorporated Society,
while at Rathfarnham is situ-
ated the College of St.
Columba, a school built in 1843,
and conducted in the interest of
the Church of Ireland on the
English Public School system.
The Presbyterian Assembly
has opened in Stephen's-green
N., a new school, called S.
Andrew's College.

There are numerous excellent
schools for the education of
Catholic youth, among which
may be mentioned the Catholic
University School in Leeson-
street, and the famous Black rock
College.

Electric Lighting LIGHT-
ING.

Electoral Divisions.
Dublin is divided for electoral
purposes into four divisions,
named I. College-green. 2.
Dublin Harbour. 3. Stephen's-
green. 4. S. Patrick's.

The University of Dublin sends
two representatives to the Imperial
Parliament.

Ely Place. (Map B.) No. 5
was built by Dr. Gustavus Hume
circ. 1770, and gave the name
Hume-row, until 1776 when the

Earl of Ely built No. 8. In No
6, Lord Chancellor Fitzgibbon,
afterwards Earl of Clare, lived ;
some of the loopholes and defen-
ces erected by Lord Clare (and
not without good reason) against
possible attacks by mobs, can yet
be seen ; as can the emblems of
the Lord Chancellor's office which
are on the panels of the staircase.
This house was afterwards used
by Lord Powerscourt, it is now a
public office. No. 8, Ely House,
has a noble staircase with well-
carved doorways and fine metal
balustrades, the panels represent-
ing the labours of Hercules. The
stucco is of pure Italian design ;
the drawingroom, of which the
ceiling is finely moulded, has a
silver grate, and white marble
mantelpieces with groundwork of
inlaid Sienna.

Enniskerry in the County
Wicklow nearly four miles from
Bray (fare by Mail car 6d.), lies at
the further end of THE SCALP,
and is one of the most picturesque
villages in the neighbourhood. It
is so romantically situated and the
scenery is so delightful that it is a
favourite resort of the visitors to
Dublin. The best approach to it
is through the Scalp ; but the
easiest and most natural method
of access is to drive from Bray to
the DARGLE and walk through it
to Enniskerry, which is half a mile
from the end of the Dargle. It
would be quite impossible, where
all is so lovely, to pick out the chief
" bits " of beauty ; but the peeps
obtained from the Scalp with the
dainty little village nestling in the
valley below are worth along walk
to see. The church on the hill is
a pretty building with a grace-
ful spire and behind it towers
the huge form of the Great Sugar
Loaf. Enniskerry is an excellent
centre for tourists, and there is good

186

Hotel accommodation. Close to
the village is POWERSCOURT De-
mesne and Waterfall.

Essex Bridge BRIDGES.

Fares Cab and Car within the
Dublin Metropolitan District are
arranged by the Commissioners of
Police, and are as follows:

1. By " Set-down," direct from
one place to another within the
prescribed boundaries, for two
only, 6d. Double fare is charged
if the hiring be before 9 A.M.
or after 10 P.M.

For more than two persons
and at any hour, is. An ad-
ditional sixpence is charged for
each stoppage, provided that
the driver warns the hirer that
such a charge will be made.

2. By Time. For first hour or
less for one or more persons,
is. 6d.

For every half-hour after the
first complete hour, 6d.

If the hiring be before 9 A. M.
or after 10 P.M. these fares are
increased to 2s. and gd. respec-
tively. No driver is bound by a
time engagement beyond five
hours, except by special arrange-
ment.

For drives which go outside the
prescribed boundaries the follow-
ing are the charges :
I. By Distance : (which is cal-
culated invariably from the
General Post Office without
regard to where the hiring
actually took place). For a
drive, for one or more persons
not returning with tJie hirer,
for every statute mile, going,
6d.

Drivers are bound to bring
back the hirer, if required to do
so, at a fare for every mile
returning, 3d.

If the hiring be before 9 A.M.
or after 10 P.M. the fare going
shall be is. for \hzjirst mile or

fraction of a mile, the other
fares remaining as above.
2. By Time. For the first ten
minutes with not more than two
adults, 6d.

After hours or with more than
two adults, is.

For second ten minutes or
part thereof, 6d.

No driver to be bound for

more than 20 minutes if not

hired by the hour at a fare of 2s.

For every half after the first

complete hour, gd.

Luggage is charged for at the
rate of 2d. per article ; and
small parcels, umbrella, &c., or
other article carried in the hand
shall not be considered luggage.
Drivers are bound to proceed
from the stand to the hirer's
residence if the distance do not
exceed quarter of a mile. If
sent away, unemployed, they
are entitled to receive 6d.
[BOUNDARIES.]

Female Orphan House.
The Female Orphan House is
splendidly situated on high ground
on the North Circular road. The
charity dates from 1 790 when Mrs.
Este opened a home for five
orphans. Mrs. Este died the fol-
lowing year, and Mrs. Peter La
Touche took her place. Thepre-
sent building was opened in 1793.
The west wing was added in
1796 (during which year 1,015
was obtained for the charity after
a sermon preached by the Rev.
Walter Blake Kir wan in S. Peter's
Church). In 1818 the east wing
and chapel were added. For
many years Parliament gave a
grant to equal the estimated ex-
pense, and the number of children
reached 160. There is now a fixed
Parliamentary grant of 500, and
there are 60 inmates.

The building has a long front
separated from the road by railings

187

-erected by Henry Bren-
nan in 1867. At the east
end of the building is the
chapel, and near it is a
parsonage built in 1876
in memory of Ven. C.
\Volseley, who was chap-
lain for twenty years.

The inside is in beauti-
ful order, Mrs. Fuller
having in 1887 com pletley
restored the fabric. It
contains 100 iron beds of
quaint form, presented by
George IV. after his visit
in 1821.

The chapel was de-
signed by F. Johnston
(1818-19) at a cost .of
.2,500 which was granted
by Parliament and, like the Chapel
Royal, is a study in perpendicular
Gothic executed in stucco. It has
a memorial window to Mrs. Peter
La Touche.

There is a farm attached which
Mrs. A. J. Brown gave in 1891
as "The Richard Brown Memo-
rial Farm."

There is a " Brennan Memorial
Fund," having for its object to
supply sea air and bathing to the
orphans.

All the work of the house, farm,
making of clothes, &c., is done by
the girls, their employment being
changed each fortnight, only the
appliances met with in ordinary
houses being used, so that the
girls may be fitted for situations.
Ferryboats cross the Liffey at
three or four points below the
Swivel-bridge and form a con-
venient, if slow, method of passing
from side to side on the lower
reaches of the river. The fare is |d.
Fingall. The northern part of
the County Dublin from the coast
for a considerable distance inland
was called Fingall from a colony
of Ostmen who were expelled from

FERRYBOAT.

Dublin after protracted fighting in
the tenth century and settled in
this district. It is said, but with
what truth we know not, that the
inhabitants possess even now some
distinct characteristics, derived
from their Gallic ancestry. It is
at least certain that the towns and
villages of Fingall, poor though
they may be, are quite remarkable
among Irish villages for their clean
tidy appearance (SKERRIES, LUSK,
&c.). Fingall gives the title Earl
of Fingall to the noble head of the
great Irish family of Plunkett.
Fire Brigade, The, has its
chief station in Clarendon-street,
near the top of Grafton-street
(Map A). It is very central and
well officered, so that with rare ex-
ceptions Dublin suffers little from
fires. Like all large cities, it has
been visited, in the past, by terrible
disasters from fire. In 1190 "a
great part of the city was con-
sumed;" in 1282 and the following
year serious conflagrations oc-
curred and CHRIST CHURCH
CATHEDRAL was greatly injured.
In 1361 a similar fate befell S.
PATRICK'S CATHEDRAL; in

188

1304 the noble Cistercian ABBEY
OF S. MARY in Oxmantown
was burned and the Chancery
Rolls up to the 28th year of Edward
I., which were deposited in the
Abbey, were destroyed. In 1591,
the powder sent by Queen Eliza-
beth for the use of the Army, was
ignited by some accident and
caused terrible loss of life. In 1792
the House of Commons was
burned. Passing over some minor
outbreaks we find during the pre-
sent century the great fire of 1837
in which the Arcade which stood
on the site of the College-green
P.O. was burned. The Account-
ant-General's office was destroyed
by fire in 1857 and in 1860
occurred the appalling fire in
which the Kildare-street CLUB
was burned. Within recent years,
the most notable conflagrations
have been the burning of the
Theatre Royal in Hawkins'-street,
1880, the destruction in 1892 of
the SOUTH CITY MARKETS, and
of Amott's premises in Henry-
street in 1894.

Fish and Vegetable Mar-
kets. (MapC.) The Fish and
Vegetable Markets were erected
on the site of a number of half
ruinous houses about East Arran-
street and Mary's-lane. They
were opened in 1892 and consist
of ten departments: six for fruit
and vegetables and four for fish.
The principal entrance is in
Halston: street and is built of lime-
stone and brick with terra-cotta
ornaments ; it is in the Corinthian
style, and has figures of Justice
with a sword, and Trade with
-evenly balanced scales.

Fitzwi 1 1 iam-square (Map
B.), although small, is well built,
most of the houses having the
basement faced with cut granite.
It is of comparatively late date
(1816-24). The Tennis Tourna-

ment, during which the Champion-
ship of Ireland is decided, is held
in it each May. The square is
not open to the public.

Football has always been a
favourite game in this country,
and, as might be anticipated,
Irishmen's preferences are strongly
in favour of the Rugby game,
and in 1894 Ireland won the
Championship of the United
Kingdom. The leading clubs
are the University, Wanderers,
Lansdowne and Bective Rangers,
who among them supply the
Dublin contingent to the Irish
XV. Association football is
played in a half-hearted fashion
in Dublin. The Gaelic Associa-
tion play a game of rather similar
type, but so rough that accidents
are of frequent occurrence.

Fountains. Dublin is badly-
provided with ornamental drink-
ing fountains. Many interesting
examples were cleared away by
the Paving Board when reconsti-
tuted in 1807. "There were
formerly in almost every street one
or two fountains, which, though
a great ornament, were a greater
nuisance, and the cause of many
sad accidents, as they were alwa\ s
crowded by the idle, and the
pavement around was so wet and
slippery that horses, particularly in
harness, have frequently fallen in
attempting to pass, and in winter
these places became a perfect
sheet of ice. All these nuisances
have been removed at a trifling
loss to the city in point of pictur-
esque appearance." When the
LOOP LINE was being made a
similar vandalism occurred, a
handsome fountain of cut stone
erected by .the Earl of Carlisle in
1861 was removed and has dis-
appeared.

The only ornamental fountains
are those in S. STEPHEN'S-

189

GREEN and the Castle. The chief
drinking fountains, in addition to
the ancient specimen in James' -
street, are at the Municipal Build-
ings (erected soon after the open-
ing of Lord Edward-street) ; Park
Gate-street (erected by the Earl
of Carlisle, 1861) ; S. Stephen's-
green, N. : Artisans' Dwellings
in the Coombe ; and the
CRAMPTON MEMORIAL. At the
west side of MERRION-SQUARE
are the remains of one of ambi-
tious design. There are also a
number of standards from which
Vartry water can be drawn, and
several drinking troughs for cattle.
Four Courts. (Map A.) The
Courts and numerous offices con-
nected therewith are situated on
the north bank of the Liffey
between Richmond Bridge and
\Vhitworth Bridge ; almost the
entire interval being occupied
by the river front of this
superb pile of buildings. In very
early times the Irish Courts of Law
were held at intervals in various
towns throughout the kingdom,
chiefly Carlow and Drogheda. In
1548 we learn that the Cathedral
of S. Patrick was used as a Com-
mon Hall for the Courts of Justice,
on the plea that two cathedrals
were unnecessary.

In 1608 "The King's Courts"
were removed from Dublin
Castle to " certain rooms with-
in the precinct or close of
CHRIST CHURCH," probably the
house of the Deans of Christ
Church. Constant complaints
were made of the poor accom-
modation here afforded, and in
1695 these King's Courts were re-
built at a cost of ^3,421 75. 8d.
In 1744, and again in 1755, con-
siderable sums were expended
for repairs ; but the buildings had
fallen into so ruinous a state, and
were so extremely incommodious,

that COOLEY was requested to fur-
nish a design for a new building
In a more convenient situation ;
the outcome of which proposal
was the building of the present
Four Courts in 1796. In the
older Four Courts at Christ
Church the separate Courts were
not enclosed from each other, and
the Judges of the various Courts
could be seen all sitting in the
same Great Hall. The design for
the new building, as originally
drawn by Mr. Cooley, proposed a
large central square in front of the
main building ; but in consequence
of the difficulty of securing the
necessary depth in the rear, an
alteration was made by Mr.
Gandon, who took up the work on
Mr. Cooley's death. At each side
of the central building there are
large courtyards separated from
the street by rusticated screens,
in the centres of which are orna-
mental archways by which one
enters the courtyards. Over the
eastern arch is placed the Harp of
Ireland, with the statues of Justice,
Security and Law supported upon
volumes of law books, encircled
by a serpent, presumably emble-
matic of the wisdom of the bar !
Above the western arch stands the
Royal Shield, encompassed by em-
blems suitable to the offices which
occupy that part of the building.

These wings are occupied by
the offices connected with the
various Courts, and are not of any
great interest to the visitor. The
great central building with its fine
dome forms one of the most attrac-
tive of our public buildings. The
main entrance is through a mag-
nificent Corinthian portico of six
columns, supporting on the apex
of its pediment a statue of Moses,
and at either side figures of Justice
and Mercy, while at each corner
of the front seated figures are

190

placed emblematic of Wisdom and
Authority. Above this central
pile rises a circular lantern, 64
feet in diameter, ornamented by
24 graceful Corinthian columns ;
the entablature running right round
the summit of the lantern, appears
to support the magnificent dome.
Passing through the semicircular
recess in the main front we come
at once into the great Central
Hall, from which the Four Courts
extend towards the four corners
of the square. The plan, there-

statues. The entrance to" each
Court is between pairs of coupled
Corinthian columns, the upper
portion of which is fluted. In the
four panels immediately above are
bas-reliefs representing great
events in history : I. William
the Conqueror instituting Courts
of Justice ; 2. Signing of the
Magna-Charta in 1215; 3. Grant-
ing of a Charter to the City of
Dublin by Henry II. ; 4. James
I. abolishing the Brehon Laws
and publishing the Act of Oblivion.

THE FOUR COURTS.

fore of the building is a square of
140 feet, at each corner of which
is one of the Courts, the entrance
of each being from the Central
Hall. The intervals between the
Courts are occupied as Judges'
Chambers, Robing Rooms, Jury
Rooms, &c. , and one of them is
used as a Rolls Court. The Hall
is adorned with statues of Sir
Michael O'Loughlin, Plunkett,
Whiteside, O'Hagan, Sheil and
Henry Joy, so that there are left
now only two vacant sites for

These panels are the work of Mr.
EDWARD SMITH, a Dublin artist.
Above the interior dome is a large
space under the true dome, lighted
by twelve large windows, between
which are statues, emblematic
of Liberty, Justice, Wisdom,
Prudence, Law, Mercy, Eloquence
and Punishment, each resting on
a corbel. Above these figures on
the frieze are to be seen medal-
lions of the following great Law-
givers : Moses, Lycurgus, Solon
Numa, Confucius, Alfred, Manco-

191

Capac and Ollahm-Fpdhla. This
void between the interior and
exterior domes was intended
originally for a library, and is
very spacious but singularly ill-
adapted for any such purpose.
It is now used as a storehouse for
records. The rooms used as a
Library at present are worth a
visit, if the visitor can secure the
entree through some barrister
friend. Here at almost any hour
of the day may be seen a busy
hive. Two small rooms at right
angles to each other are simply
black with gowns bustling to and
fro. The sitting accommodation
has long been quite inadequate to
the numbers requiring seats, and
fortunate indeed is he who has
secured a seat for his proper use.
When a solicitor wishes to con-
sult a member of the Bar who is in
the Library he mentions the name
to the doorkeeper, who in sten-
torian tones summons the required
barrister to a small ante-room,
where eager consultations are con-
tinually being held. The public
are admitted only to the great
Central Hall, which during the
sittings of the Court, presents a
very lively scene, eminent Q.C.'s
hurrying from one case to another,
while countless briefless Juniors,
their brief-bags bulged probably
with waste papers, assume a pre-
ternaturally busy air when some
possible client approaches,
though their sole business in
actual fact is the retailing of the
freshest Dublin gossip. The
Courts themselves are small but
well lit, and are worth a visit only
when some great case is on, with
a strong Bar. Even if the olden
eloquence has died with Curran,
Whiteside and many another, at
least there are still many, who
relieve the dryness of their law
with flashes of that true Irish wit,

which has ever found its most
brilliant exponents among the Bar
of Ireland.
Francis Xavier, Chapel

Of S. (Map C.). The Chapel
of S. Francis Xavier, Upper
Gardiner-street, belongs to the
Society of Jesus, and is one of
the finest chapels in Dublin. It
is beautifully decorated and is
celebrated for its music. The
building was designed by T. B.
Keane (1832). The front consists
of a granite portico 50 feet high
of four Ionic pillars supporting
an entablature and pediment
which bear the Sacred Mono-
gram and "Deo Uni et Trino
sub invocatione - S. Francisci
Xaverii " in gold. The interior
is cruciform and is 40 feet high.
The great altar screen, 25 feet
high, is of the Corinthian order,
with a pediment and alto relievo
in the tympanum ; the altar piece
represents S. Francis Xavier
preaching, and is of considerable
merit. An organ gallery is over
the west door ; the organ was
built for a musical festival in
Westminster Abbey. The paint-
ings hanging on the walls are
well worth seeing. The four hung
on either side of the high altar are
copies of famous Roman paint-
ings, and illustrate the four great
proofs of the Redeemer's love :
" Se nascens dedit socium,
Convescens in edulium,
Se moriens in pretium,
Se regnans dat in premium."
The four paintings in the transepts
were added in 1881, they are by
the elder Gagliardi and represent
(l.) Ignatius immediately after
his conversion. (2.) Ignatius
persuading Francis Xavier. (3.)
The chapel of Montmartre where
the vows were taken. (4. ) Francis
Borgio offering himself as a
novice. In a corridor are

192

portraits of many prominent merly included in Gardiner's-

members of the Society. row.

Gaiety Theatre, in S. King- General Post Office (Map
the top of Grafton-

street, at the top of
street (Map A.) is a small but
comfortable house. Since the
burning of the old Theatre
Royal, in 1880, it has been prac-
tically the sole theatre at which
high class entertainments are
given. It seats about 2,000, and
the stage is 45 ft. deep by 54 ft.
wide. The fa9ade is plain brick-
work, and pre-
sents no archi-
tectural feature.

G a n d o n,
James,
(1742-1824),
born in Lon-
don, was ap-
prenticed to
Sir Wm. Cham-
bers. He came
to Dublin in
1781^ to super-
intend the
building of the
Custom House,
and remained in
Dublin until his
death. He is
buried in Glas-
nevin, in the
grave of Gross,

the antiquarian. Gandon designed
the Custom House ; portico,
House of Lords ; centre and
screen arcades of Four Courts ;
Military Hospital; old Carlisle
Bridge ; King's Inns.

Gardiner's-row (Map C.)
dates from 1 769. No. 4 was the
family house of the Earl of Arran ;
No. 5, of the Earl of Ross,
whose title became extinct on
his death in 1802. No. 6 was
at one time the house of the
Whites (Lord Annaly). In No.
7 the Earl of Carrick lived.
Great Denmark-street was for-

C.), Sackville-street. The Pos't
Office was originally established
in Dame-street, where the Com-
mercial Buildings now stand, it
was then moved to the site in
College-green occupied by the
National Bank, and remained until
increase of work rendered a larger
building necessary. The present
fine building (1815-18) was

GEXEBAL POST OFFICE.

designed by F. JOHNSTON, and
cost ^50,000. It has a frontage
of 223 feet and is built of granite ;
its portico projecting over the
pathway is one of the features of
Sackville-street. This portico is
80 feet long and has six massive
fluted Ionic columns, a richly
carved frieze, and a pediment sur-
mounted by three fine statues by
the younger Smyth. Hibernia
resting on a spear and holding a
shield decorated with a harp is
in the centre ; Mercury with his
caducus and money-bag, and
Fidelity with finger to lip and

193

key in hand are to the right and
left. The ancient joke of the
Jarvey was to point them out as
the Twelve Apostles, and on the
unwary tourist objecting that there
were only three, to reply that the
rest were inside sorting the letters.
The building is little changed
externally, except that the vesti-
bule under the portico was built
up in 1860, and letters are
now posted without entering
the building ; the removal of
the clock and bells (whose
musical chimes were heard
all over the north side of the
city) to the Royal University,
was a local loss, and the
present clock is a mean look-
ing substitute. The inside
of the building has been fre-
quently altered. The sorting
and telegraph departments
occupy most of it. The pri-
vileged few admitted to the
sorting office on Christmas
eye witness a busy scene.
George s Church-
Little S. (Map C.) S.
George's chapel, or, as it is
commonly called, Little S,
George's, is in Hill-street
(formerly Lower Temple-
street). It was built circ.
1714, by Sir John Eccles, as
a private chapel for his house-
hold and tenantry in the
grounds of Mount Eccles,
and on a map of 1719 is
marked "King George's
Chapel." It has a square
tower 40 ft. high, and con-
tains some interesting monu-
ments and the pew of the
Eccles family. It is sur-
rounded by a crowded grave-
yard. n3JJIM i

It was been closed for some
years, and the endowments given
to Clonliffe Chapel of Ease, S.
George's Parish. In 1894 was

carried out a project to take
down the body of the church, and
turn the churchyard into an open
space, using the tower for the
caretaker. The monuments should
have been moved to S. George's
Church.

George, Church of S. (Map
C.) in George's-place, at the
junction of Eccles, Temple, and

s. GEORGE'S CHURCH.

Hardwicke-streets. The original
parish of S. George was on the
south side of Dublin, and George's-
lane off South George's-street
marks the locality of the church.
Afterwards "Little" S. GEORGE'S
O

194

CHURCH was built at the north
side. The increase of the north
side rendering more accommoda-
tion necessary, the present parish
of S. George was formed by Act
of Parliament, 1793, zn*^ tne
church built 1802-13. Francis
Johnston was the architect of the
church, the estimated cost was
ji 7,453 i8s. 4d., and the actual
amount spent ^36,210 145. 2d. ;
part of the increase was due to
the softness of the ground neces-
sitating deep foundations and the
building of large vaults.

This is the finest classical church
in the city and standing in an
open space on high ground can
be well seen. The principal front
is 92 feet wide and has in its
centre a portico of four fluted
Ionic columns, 3$ feet in diameter,
supporting an entablature and
pediment, on the frieze of which is
in Greek capitals " Glory to God
in 'the highest." The portico is
15 feet deep and is raised on
several steps. The other three
sides are also of the Ionic order,
and have a boldly projecting
cornice.

Behind the portico rises the
steeple, one of the most beautiful
examples of its kind in existence.
This is due to the conception
being Gothic in spirit although
the details are purely classic. It
is 200 feet high and ends in a
finely carved stone cross.

The interior measures 80 x 60 ft.
and is covered by a single span
ceiling of great beauty which
nearly caused the collapse of the
building in 1836. The scarcity of
timber due to Continental war
led to short lengths being used ;
gradually the massive walls
were pushed out, and the whole
was in such a dangerous state that
it was almost decided to take the
roof off and rebuild. Malet, a

young engineer, offered to raise
and fix the roof without damage
to the ceiling and succeeded ; his
bow-string girders can be seen in
the roof. Projecting galleries ap-
parently support ed by handsomely
carved cantilevers run round three
sides, at the fourth a chancel now
opens but formerly there was only
a slight recess with a "three-
decker" in front, the space behind
being divided into three stories
and used for vestry and school-
rooms. Other alterations have
been made, such as removing the
square pews (sittings in the gallery
were sold by auction for
^5,213 8s. gd., in aid of the building
fund-) and taking away the upper
organ gallery. There are memorial
windows in the chancel, a
memorial brass lectern, and a
carved font erected by sub-
scriptions received from those who
were baptised in the church.
There are a number of wall tablets;
the most curious is that of
Charles L. Metzler Giesecke, who
bears the following letters after
his name: F.R.S.E. & G.S.L.,
V.P. R.I.A., H.M.R.D.S., M.
W.S.W.M.-B.S.L.M.R.D.A.S.
There is a peal of eight bells
ranging from 8 cwt. to 22 cwt.,
which are rung by amateurs. Six
were hung in 1828 by the architect
of the church in the Gothic tower
he built to the stable of his house
64 ECCLES-STREET. The neigh-
bours complaining of the noise, he
had two more bells cast and pre-
sented the peal, which cost
.1,500, to the church in the same
year,

G.F.S. The object of the Girls'
Friendly Society is to bind to-
gether in one society ladies and
working girls for mutual help.
There is a free registry for young
women in business and for servants;
and members receive introductions

195

when moving from one district to,
another. The Lodge, 12 and 13
South Frederick-street, was
opened 1881 and enlarged in 1887
as a memorial of Jane LaTouche.
Its object is to provide a temporary
home for members of the G.F.S.
and other young women. It alsp
contains recreation rooms, a
library, and the registry offices.
Glasnevin is a quiet little
village prettily situated on the
banks of the river Tolka about
two miles from Dublin ; it consists
of a single street with some

INK-BOTTLE SCHOOL HOUSE,
GLASNEVIN.

picturesque old houses. In the
eighteenth century it was a favour-
ite suburb, and Tickel, Addison,
Swift. Delany, Sheridan, Steele
and Parnell are hut some of the
names intimately connected with
its history. At the right hand
side is Delville, built by Dr. Delany,
F.T.C.D., and afterwards Dean
of Down, on a small property of
eleven acres which he laid out in

a fantastic manner with the assist-
ance of another Fellow of Trinity
Dr. Helsham. Anxious to im-
mortalise both names, Delany
took their first syllables and called
his place Zfe/delville ; but it was
the age of wits and epigrams, and
the first syllable had to be dropped.
Swift often stayed at Delville, and
it is supposed that whilst staying
therein 1735 he printed the satire
" The Legion Club " which no
publisher would undertake, fearing
prosecution. Early in this century
an old printing press was dis-
covered in an outhouse.

The BOTANIC GARDENS are at
Glasnevin and the name Glasnevin
is often erroneously applied to
Prospect CEMETERY.

Glen of the Downs. This
is a pretty glen i miles long,
about five miles from Bray ; it lies
between the Downs mountain and
the little Sugar Loaf (a barbarous
name which has ousted the poetical
Irish name whichmeansgiltspears,
alluding to the light of the setting
sun remaining on the peaks after
the lower ground is in shadow).
The sides are 600 feet high and
densely wooded. There is a good
view of the greater Sugar Loaf
from the Glen and pretty views
of the Glen itself can be obtained
from the Tea-house in Bellevue.

Glencree Reformatory.
The Glencree Reformatory was
established in 1859, and old Glen-
cree Barracks, restored from the
state of ruin which long disuse
had occasioned, forms the chief of
the present buildings. It is situ-
ated twelve miles from Dublin, in
the heart of the mountains close
to Lough Bray, and can only be
reached by driving from Dublin
or Bray. The best plan for a
visitor is to drive from Dublin,
returning by Enniskerry and the
Scalp. It will be a long day's

196

drive, but the scenery throughout
is splendid, The boys are em-
ployed in reclaiming mountain
land, and already have formed a
fertile oasis in an inhospitable
district. The average number of
inmates is 250.

Glendalough, the famous vale
of the Seven Churches lies about
8 miles from Rathdrum, a station
on the D. W. & W. Railway,
which is the best point from
which to reach the " Glen of the
two lakes." The drive towardsLa-
ragh is extremely beautiful, and
on passing this village we see
the dark mountains amid whose
cheerless gorges S. Kevin sought
refuge from the fair Kathleen.
The hills which surround the
lakes are, on the south, Lugduff
[2,148 ft.], Mullicap [2,176 ft.],
and Derrybawn [1,567 ft.] ; and,

ST. KEVIN'S KITCHEN.

on the north, Brockagh, Glen-
dassan,and Comaderry [2,296 ft].
The lower lake is small and not
very picturesque, but the desolate
wildness of the upper lake has
an impressiveness all its own.
Tradition states that Glendalough
was, in the fifth and sixth cen-
turies, the site of a city which
sprang up round the monastery
founded by S. Kevin. From
this spot, now so lonely, went
forth in olden days saints and
scholars to teach the world ; and
while all surrounding nations
were sunk in barbarism, in this
remote valley the lamp of re-
ligion brightly burned, and the
silent ruins of the cathedrals and
shrines, then erected, still bear tes-
timony to the sanctity and splen-
dour of our pious forefathers. The
Seven Churches are : The Cathe-
dral, of which the nave
is 48 ft. by 30 ft., and
the choir 38 ft. by 25 ft.
The east window is en-
riched by chevron and
other ornaments. S.
Kevin's Kitchen, with
its very ancient stone
roof of steep pitch and
its strange belfry tower
springing from the
gable the earliest ex-
ample of such a belfry.
The nave is 23 ft. by 15
ft., the walls being 3 ft.
6 inches in width.
Trinity Church, con-
sisting of a nave 29 ft.
6 inches, with a chancel
13 ft. 6 inches by 9 ft.
In it may be seen almost
all the characteristic
features of ancient Irish
architecture, a splendid
example of the square-
headed doorway and a
magnificent choir arch.
Our Lady's Chapel pos-

197

SQUARE-HEADED DOORWAY.

sesses a superb western doorway,
one of the finest examples of its
style. The small stream which
flows from the upper lake separates
S. Kevin's Kitchen from the Re-
feart, or Royal Cemetery Church,
the burial place of the Irish kings,
the O'Tooles. This ruin is too
imperfect to be very interesting.
The Prior of S. Saviour, some-
times called the Abbey, is the
most Easterly of the Churches,
and is of extreme interest as con-
taining the tomb of S. Kevin who
died in 618. This appears to
have been the finest of the
Churches architecturally, and
consisted of two buildings parallel
to each other, and much curious
workmanship as well as many
strange devices can still be made
out, some being quite unique in
Ireland. On a little patch of
ground under the beetling crag
of Lugduff, almost inaccessible

except by boat, is the ruin
called Teampull-na-Skellig, or
Church of the Desert. The
last of the Seven Churches is
called The Ivy Church, but
there are many other ecclesias-
tical remains scattered through
the valley stones, crosses, &c.,
while innumerable legends are
told by the guides about almost
every bush or well in the glen.
The visitor will be wise to em-
ploy a guide and so acquire
much information of an amus-
ing if not very veracious kind.
The Round Tower, no ft.
high, is a good example of
these remarkable buildings, of
which originally there were
two at Glendalough. S.

STONE CROSS.

198

Kevin's bed is a small cavity in
the sheer face of the rock which
overhangs the upper lake. It may
be approached with comparative
ease by land, but it is more easy
of access from a boat. The bed
is some thirty feet above the
level of the lake, and, if we can
accept the tradition, it was from
this ledge that the saint hurled the
fair Kathleen when, with her

BOUND TOWER.

"eyes of most unholy blue," she
tried to entice him from his pious
meditations. Surely her love and
fidelity merited less harsh treat-
ment. The visitor ought to read
Moore's melody " By that Lake
whose gloomy shore," the beauty
of which has cast a glamour of
romance over this mythical mem-
ber of " the wily sex ' ' and her sad
fate. S. Kevin's bed has been
visited by many famous people
Sir Walter Scott, Maria Edge-
worth, Thackeray, Lady Morgan,

and a host of others. Before
leaving the lakes, the stranger
should visit Poulanass Fall, an
exquisite little cascade, behind
the small inn between the lakes.
There is excellent hotel accom-
modation at Glendalough, and the
tourist who cares for walking
might spend some days in ex-
ploring this delightful district.

Glenmalure RATHDRUM.

Golf has within recent years
become very popular in Dublin
and fine links have been secured
atDollymount beyond CLONTARK,
and in the Phcenix Park. The
sport finds many enthusiastic
votaries, chiefly among members
of the bar.

Gordon Boys' Home (Map
C.) The Gordon Boys' Home
was established in 1888, and
moved in 1890 to No. 77
Lower Gardiner-street, to provide
a home for boys who have passed
through the Meath INDUSTRIAL
SCHOOL, and obtained employ-
ment in Dublin. It is named
after Samuel Gordon, M.D., Hon.
Sec. of the Meath School, and has
an average of 16 inmates.

Grangegorman Church.
ALL SAINTS, GRANGEGORMAN.

Guinness' Brewery (Map
D.). in S. James' Gate stretches
clown to the river, on which the
Company has large wharves.
The business began about 150
years ago, but its gigantic export
operations may be said to date
only from 1860, when the pre-
mises occupied an area only equal
to one tenth of the present space.
Probably every visitor to Ireland
will be desirous of visiting this
magnificent commercial enterprise,
the fame of which is world wide.
Permission can be readily obtained
by writing to the Secretary, and
the visitor will have here an oppor-
tunity of inspecting such a busy

199

hive of industry as his eyes Henrietta-Street. (Map C.)

have never previously rested upon.
To describe the various curious
things which are shown would
need a specialist ; but among the
many marvels may be noticed the
huge barrels of "beer, "as the
guides call our Dublin XX. Miles
upon miles of tubing seem to
encircle one like a vast spider's
web within the works ; myriads
of barrels of every possible size
form pyramids outside ; railway

THE YARD, GUINNESS S BREWERY.

lines with little special trains
plying backwards and forwards in
the busiest manner give one a fair
idea of the amazing traffic of this
great firm. For the convenience
of visitors there are even passenger
trains, which whirl one through
the narrowest and murkiest of
tunnels in his tour of inspection
till one almost expects to hear
the shout, "Stop here for
Guinness' Porter." The Company
manufactures on the premises
everything required for trade pur-
poses. The men employed number
i, 600, and some live in model
dwelling-houses built for them at
Rialto-bridge. Carts, horses and
men are all of the biggest, ' ' spick
and span."

Henrietta-street leads from Bolton-
street to the King's Inns, and at
the end of the last century was
one of the most fashionable streets
in Dublin ; it contains some mag-
nificent houses, now mostly in
tenements. It used to be called
Primate's Hill as four Primates
occupied in turn from 1724-1794
a house at the top which, the
executor of Primate Robinson
assigned it to a pauper in order
to get rid of his
liability, and was so
neglected for about
thirty years that it
became ruinous and
the present Law
Library was built
on its site.

The top house on
the right hand side
(No. 10), was built
by Luke Gardiner
in 1730; it after-
wards was known
as Blessington
House. The pre-
sent doorway is
modern, the hall
cutting the dining-room in two.
In 1814 the body of the Countess
of Mountjoy (whose husband after-
wards became Earl of Blessington)
lay in state in this house, some
^"3,000 or ,4,000 being lavished
on the spectacle.

No. 9 was designed by Cassels
in 1734 for Thomas Carter, Master
of the Rolls. There is a fine
cornice, centre window and door-
way. In the entrance hall six
Corinthian columns support the
lobby, which is reached by a fine
double stone staircase. Mr. St.
George, an ancestor of the Earl of
Leitrim and the builder of the
Viceregal Lodge, lived in No. 8.
The large house lower down be-
longed to the Earl of Thomond.

200

Hibernian Academy.

ACADEMY, ROYAL HIBERNIAN.
Holy Cross College

CLONLIFFE COLLEGE.
Hospitals. Dublin is well pro-
vided with Hospitals, but unfor-
tunately owing to want of funds
many of them are unable to use all
their beds. They may be roughly
classified, into :

I. General Hospitals.
II. Fever Hospitals.

III. Special Hospitals.

IV. Hospitals for Incurables.
General Hospitals are eleven in

number.

1. Adelaide Hospital (Map A),
Peter-street; Founded 1839, for
Protestants only. 125 beds.

2. City of Dublin Hospital (Map
B), Upper Baggot-street; founded
1832 ; 93 beds ; enlarged and re-
fronted from designs of A. E.
Murray. 1894.

3. Dr. STEEVENS' HOSPITAL
(Ma'p D.) Kingsbridge ; founded
1720. 250 beds.

4. House of Industry Hospitals
(Map C), North Brunswick-st. ;
200 general beds. There are three
buildings Richmond, for surgical
cases, 1 20 beds ; Whitworth, for
medical, 80 beds ; and the Hard-
wicke for fever cases.

5. Jervis-street Charitable Infir-
mary (Map C). Founded 1721.
Rebuilt 1884. 80 beds.

6. MATER MISERICORDS HOS-
PITAL, Eccles-street. Founded
1 86 1. 350 beds.

7. MEATH HOSPITAL and Co.
Dublin Infirmary (Map A), Hey-
tesbury-street. Founded 1753.
102 beds.

8. Mercer's Hospital (Map A),
Lower Mercer-street. Founded
1734, by Mrs. Mary Mercer. 97
beds.

9. Sir Patrick Dun's Hospital
-(Map B), Grand Canal-street.
Founded 1808. So beds.

10. S. Vincent's Hospital (Map
B), S. Stephen's-green, East.
Founded 1834. 160 beds, under
the care of the Sisters of Charity.

11. Drumcondra Hospital, for-
merly Whitworth, but renamed
1893. Founded in 1818 as a
Fever Hospital. Reopened as a
general Hospital. 34 beds.

There are also large general
hospitals attached to the North
and South Dublin Unions, and a
ROYAL MILITARY INFIRMARY
in the Park.

Fever Hospitals, The largest
and best situated Fever Hospital
in Dublin is the House of Re-
covery in Cork-street. It was
founded in 1802, and consists of
three large Hospital buildings
(the latest built in 1893),
Nurses' Home, Laundry, &c.,
standing in well planted grounds.
There are observation wards, and
all forms of infectious disease are
kept separate.

The Hardwicke Hospital (House
of Industry), 120 beds, is also kept
for fever cases, and several of the
general hospitals have fever
wards.

Lying-in Hospitals

ROTUNDA HOSPITAL (Map
C), Great Britain-street ; Coombe
Hospital ; National Lying-in Hos-
pital, Holies-street.

Children's Hospitals

National Children's Hospital
(Map A), Harcourt-street ; Or-
thopaedic (Map B), Great Bruns-
wick-street ; S. Joseph's, Temple-
street.

Ophthalmic Hospitals

S. Mark's (Map B), 1844,
Lincoln-place ; National Eye and
-Ear Infirmary (Map B), Moles-
worth-street.

Incurables

Hospital for Incurables, Don-
nybrook-road ; Hospice for the
Dying, Harold's- cross.

201

Hospital Sunday Fund.

The Dublin Hospital Sunday Fund
was founded in 1874 chiefly
through the efforts of Dr. Henry
Eames. Collections are yearly
made on the 2nd Sunday in
November, but so far only in
Protestant places of worship. The
fund is divided between sixteen
hospitals in proportion to voluntary
contributions received and work
done. About ^"4,000 is annually
distributed.

popular resort for Saturday and
Sunday outings, and on all days
for pic-nics. The harbour is
small and about two-thirds is dry
at low water ; I mile away is
IRELAND'S EYE, the ruins of S.
Nessan's Church and the fantastic
rocks to the east are worth visiting.
The village of Howthis poor; in
it are the interesting ruins of the
Collegiate church (1235) with
triple belfry and tomb of the S.
Lawrence (Lord Howth) family

HOWTH CASTLE, WITH IRELAND'S EYE.

Howth. The Hill of Howth
forms the north boundary of
Dublin Bay, and is connected with
the mainland by a raised beach
along which the railway runs.
The station is nine miles from
Dublin on the Great Northern
Railway, Amiens-street terminus.
The Hill is two and a-half miles
long and two wide, and reaches a
height of 563 feet. It is in great
part open to the public and is a

(1589). The "College" close by
is used as a dwelling. Howth
Castle is a fine building standing
in beautifully wooded grounds ;
the rhododendrons are very fine
and there is a cromlech called
"Fin's Quoit" at the foot of
Carrick-Mor cliff, the upper stone
is 14 x 12 feet. The Castle door
stood open at dinner hour from
the time of Granuaile, until the
present century. When the Castle,

202

harbour, and village are seen, the
cliff walk should be followed, round
the wildest part of the hill to
the Bailey lighthouse, where
Wigham's gas apparatus can be
seen. A pretty road leads down
to Sutton (passing S. Finton's
church) where train can be taken.
Huguenots. The refugees
known under this name settled at
Dublin in large numbers soon
after the Restoration of Charles
II. The Irish Parliament passed
an Act to encourage the settlement
of foreign Protestants in Ireland,
and the Duke of Ormond, then
Lord Lieutenant, exerted himself
in forwarding this policy. Cardinal
Mazarin died about this time, and
from the date of his death liberty
of conscience was curtailed in
France. Many members of the
Reformed Church there preferred
to seek a home in foreign lands,
and of these a considerable num-
ber reached Ireland ; the principal
settlement, however, took place
when in 1685 tne Edict of Nantes,
which had been issued by Henry
IV. in 1 598, was revoked by Louis
XIV., and the limited toleration
which had prevailed since the
accession of Henry IV. was
abruptly terminated. The Hu-
guenots fled out of their country
on every side : many of them
helped William of Orange to expel
James II. from Ireland, and,
when peace was restored, their
settlement in several localities did
much to create prosperity. In
Dublin they took up their abode
in the Liberties around S. Patrick's
Cathedral, and speedily estab-
lished thriving industries, such as
silk, velvet, and ribbon wearing.
The beautiful material known as
Irish poplin was introduced by
them, and many of the technical
terms still used in the trade (e.g.,
cotcret, rochetee) reveal their

origin. The most historic of Irish
Banks was founded by David
Digges La Touche and Nathaniel
Kane in 1713 ; the former had
fought at the battle of the Boyne,
and founded in Ireland a family
to whose public spirit the historian
Lecky bears witness. The present
Munster and Leinster Bank is the
lineal descendant of La Touche's
concern.

The refugees were partly Calva-
nistic and partly Episcopal : the
former worshipped in a chapel in
Peter-street, which was not finally
closed until r8i4 ; they had also a
chapel in Lucy-lane (now Chan-
cery-place), known as the French
Church of the Inns, or of Golblack-
lane ; the latter were allowed by
the Dean and Chapter of Saint
Patrick's to make use of the chapel
of S. Mary attached to the cathe-
dral ; they had also for some
time a place of worship near
Capel-street. The French service
in S. Patrick's lasted until 1816.
There were originally three Hu-
guenot burial grounds in Dublin,
viz. : in Peter-street, in Cathedral-
lane, and in Merrion-row ; the
last is still used.

Some few place-names in the
city are of Huguenot origin as
French-street and Mercer-street.
The west side of Stephen's-green
was long known as Frenchman's-
walk, D'Olier-street is named
after Jeremiah D'Olier, High
Sheriff in 1788 ; Fumbally's-lane
shows a strange corruption of
Fionville.

Amongst Huguenot family names
still to be found in Dublin are the
following : Borough, DuBedat,
Lefanu, LaTouche, Labat, Laber-
.touche, Lanauze, LeCIerc, LeBas,
Lefroy, Montfort, Maturin.Fleury,
Perrin, Cherry, Espinasse, Bes-
sonnett, DuCros, De Soucy, Mou-
lang, Trench, D'Olier, Saurin

203

Boileau, &c. It may be added
that the patentee of the halfpence
which in 1723 roused Swift's
" salva indignatio " came of a
family that had translated its pa-
.tronymic Dubois into Wood.
InchiCOre, a rising suburb, near
KILMAINHAM with fine railway
engineering works of the Dublin
and South Western Company.
Industrial Schools. There
are eight industrial schols in and
about Dublin. The most im-
portant is ARTANE. Heytesbury-
street school (Map A-) occupies an
interesting old building formerly
the Seneschal's Court and prison
for the manor of S. Sepulchre.

The following list gives the
religion, sex, date of opening and
average number of inmates :
S. Mary, . Sandymount, R C.

Girls. 1869. 70.
Heytesbury-street. P. Girls.

1869. 30.
ARTANE. R.C. Boys. 1870.

800.
Booterstown. R.C. Girls. 1870.

140.
Meath, Blackrock. P. Boys.

1871. 120.
Merrion. R.C. Girls. 1872.

150.
Golden Bridge. R.C. Girls.

1880. 1 60.

Kilmore, Fairview. R.C. Boys.

1881. 100.
Insurance Offices. The

following Table giving the chief
buildings, with year of erection
and name of architect :

National, College-green, built
for Daly's Coffee Housa (part of).

Life Association of Scotland,
40 Dame-street, 1864. David
Bryce, (Edinburgh).

Standard, 66 Upper Sackville-
street, 1865. David Bryce, (Edin-
burgh). The Ten Virgins in
Pediment, by Steele.

Liverpool^ London, and Globe,

I and 2 College-green, 1 866.
T. N. Deane.

Scottish Provincial, 9 Upper
Sackville-street, 1867. T. N.
Deane (now offices of D. U.
Tram Co. )

Scottish Equitable, 14 West-
moreland-street, 1867, W. G.
Murray.

North British and Mercantile,
28 College-green, 1868. David
Bryce (Edinburgh.)

Royal, 44 and 45 Dame-street,
1868. W. G. Murray.

Crown, 46 and 47 Dame-
street, 1871. T. N. Deane.

English and Scottish Law Life,
41 Lower Sackville-street, 1871.
William Sterling.

Scottish Widows' Fiind, 40 and
41 Westmoreland-street, 1877.
T. N. Deane.

Royal Exchange, 5 College-
green, 1878. T. N. Deane.

Commercial Union, 37 College-
green, 1881. T. N. Deane.

Sun, 17 S. Andrew-street,
1885. G. C. Ashlin.

Northern, 7 Westmoreland-
street, 1887. G. C. Ashlin

London and Lancashire, 24
Westmoreland-street, 1893. W.
J. O'Callaghan.

Scottish Provident, 36 College-
green, 1894. C. A. Owen.
Ireland's Eye, a small island
a mile from HOWTH contains
the ruins of a very ancient Irish
church originally stone roofed,
dating from the sixth century, but
much rebuilt. It is worth while
to row round the island as the
cliffs on the seaward side are very
fine.

James, Church of S.,
James's-street. A handsome
Gothic building designed by J.
Welland and built 1861.
Jews. In 1718 a plot of ground
at Fairview was conveyed to
Hebrews and a synagogue was

204

IKELAND S EYE.
built on it ; it is still used as a
cemetery. In 1830 a synagogue
was opened in S. Mary's
Abbey. The present
synagogue, Adelaide-
road, was opened in
1892. It was designed
by J. J. O'Callaghan
and cost (including the
s i ;e ) ; 5,ooo. It is
built of red brick in
Eastern Romanesque
style and contains a
"choir," a raised plat-
form in centre, and the
Ark in a recess. Before
the Ark is a hanging
censer, and over it are
two tables of stone
bearing the command-
ments in Hebrew. In
the basement are two
schoolrooms.
Johnston, Fran-
cis. A celebrated
architect to whom
Dublin owes much.
The following are some
of the buildings he de-
signed S. GEORGE'S

CHURCH,
Cash Office,
&c., BANK
OF IRELAND,
Richmond
Penitentiary,
CASTLE
CHAPEL,
GENERAL
POST OF-
FICE, Gate-
way ROYAL
HOSPITAL,
ROYAL HI-
BERNIAN
ACADEMY
(presented to
the city at his
own cost),
Cavendish-
row build-
ings of the ROTUNDA. He lived
for some years in 64 ECCLES-

s. JOSEPH'S CHAPEL.

205

STREET, where he had a rich store
of curiosities,. He was for many
years architect to the Board of
Works, and died 1829, and is
buried in S. George's Burial
Ground.

Joseph, Chapel of S.
Berkely-st.(Map C.) A beautiful
chapel built from the designs of
Messrs. O'Neil and Byrne, 1874-
80. It is built of granite in the
decorated Gothic style and con-
sists of a nave with aisles, an
apsidal chancel, chapels and a
N. W. tower, the latter was com-
pleted 1893. The interior is
light and graceful and most of
the windows are filled with stained
glass. The window at the west
end of the Virgin's Aisle is by
Hardiman ; there is a handsome
wooden pulpit and the reredos
with the exquisite life-size white
marble angels is the work of Miss
Redmond. A peal of tubular
bells were hung in 1892. The
entire cost cf the chapel was about
^"30,000. Until 1890 it was a
chapel of ease to S. Michan's,
but was then made into a parish
church.

Kevin, Chapel of S.,
(Map A.). The chapel of S.
Kevin, Harrington-street, is a
handsome cruciform church in
decorated Gothic designed by
Messrs. Pugin and Ashlin, and
consecrated in 1868. It has a
wide nave, transepts, a five-sided
apse, side chapels, sacristy, &c.,
and corner turrets but no tower or
spire. Amagnificentaltarinwhite
marble designed by Ashlin has
lately been erected.

Kevin, Church of S.,
(Map A. ) The new church of S.
Kevin is a fine structure on the
South Circular-road at the corner
of Bloomfield-avenue. It was
designed by T. Drew, and is a
plain but pleasing example of the

early English style ; it consists of
nave, aisles, chancel, tower and
lofty spire, the latter and upper
story of the tower are built of
red sandstone, which is also used
for the windows and doorways
and relieves the granite. (Cf.
BARNABAS, CHURCH OF S.)

The old disused church of S.
Kevin (Map A.) is between
Upper Kevin-street and Camden-
row it stands in an extensive
churchyard (where the parents of
Tom Moore are buried), and has
no particular interest, having
being erected in the eighteenth
century in place of that built in the
fifteenth century, which possibly
followed an earlier foundation,
but of this there is no record.
Kenmare House (Map C.),

41 North Great George's-street
is an interesting example of an
old Dublin house. It belonged
to the Earl of Kenmare and has a
fine stone staircase, and the front
drawing-room has the only perfect
frescoes remaining in the city ;
views of the Italian coast are
seen all round as though between
the pillars of a colonnade. The
mantel-piece in this room is a fine
example of Bossi work. At the
back, opening off the lobby, is a
private chapel. This house was
for some time the residence of
ISAAC BUTT. It was from No. 20
nearly opposite (occupied by
Major Swan) that Mrs. Lefanu,
when a girl, stole the dagger with
which Lord Edward Fitzgerald
defended himself. For years
Major Swan went about in fear,
thinking the dagger would be
used to take his life, in revenge for
Lord Edward. Lady Kenmare
left Kenmare House in 1798, as
she could not bear to live within
sight of Major Swan.
Kil So constant as a prefix in
Irish names, is the same word as

206

DRAWING-ROOM, KEXMARS HOUSE

" cell," and means shrine or
church.

Kil main ham. (Map D.) 2i
miles, from the G. P. O., is famous
chiefly for its ROYAL HOSPITAL,
the home of Ireland's " aged or
maimed" soldiers, which stands
on the site of the House of the
Knights Templars.

Kilmainham has acquired a new
fame from its gloomy prison in
which many of Ireland's political
leaders have been immured, and
from which the famed " No Rent "
manifesto was issued.

The '' Kilmainham Treaty" is
the name given to the presumed
understanding arrived at by Mr.
Parnell and Mr. Gladstone in
1882.

Kilmainham can be reached
by Inchicore tram from College-
green. The gaol and the gate-
way are the chief objects attract-
ing attention, there is also
a fine view of the PHCENIX PARK
and the LIFFEY. In the \bbey
of Kilmagnend (1006), Strongbow
established Knights Templars, on

the suppres-
sion of which
Order, 1307,
the Abbey was
given the
Knights of S.
John of Jeru-
salem. At the
time of the dis-
solution of the
monasteries it
passed into the
hands of the
Crown and the
ROYAL Hos-
PITAL was
built upon it.
The gateway
leading into
the Royal
Hospital was
designed by

F. Johnston, and erected 1812,
when the South Quays ended at
the end of Barrack Bridge. For
some time before its removal
(1846), a rotting piece of board
excited curiosity ; at length it was
blown down, and the arms of the
architect, cut in stone, were dis-
covered, When the Board of

Works re-erected the gateway
g, and
shortly afterwards the slab was

they left out this carving,

stolen.

Kilternan, a village at the
Dublin end of the SCALP. The
visitor who is interested in archi-
tectural remains will find in the
west gable of the church a fine
example of the old Irish square-
headed doorways, now stopped up
with masonry. The font in this
church is of great antiquity.

A short walk leads to the
Kilternan CROMLECH, usually
called "The Giant's Grave," one
of the most perfect as well as one
of the largest monuments of the
type to be seen in Ireland. The
covering stone is 23 feet long by

207

17 feet broad, and over 6 feet

thick in some parts.
K i I I i n e y , 9 miles from
Dublin, is peculiarly interesting
for its old church, which dates
from before the Norman conquest
and is one of the most character-
istic examples of old Irish church
architecture, with its square-
headed doorways and splayed
windows. The aisle on the north
side of the nave is modern work.
The Hill of Killiney rises to a
height of 474 feet, and one of its

is a large cemetery and some most
interesting Christian remains. The
old church is certainly anterior to
the twelfth century, and some of
the more ancient portions are very
similar to the remains seen at
GLENDALOUGH. W. F.Wakeman
has given a very full and satisfac-
tory account of these remains in
his Evening Telegraph re-
prints. There are also two
antique crosses, a holy well, and
a very fine example of a bullaiin
or cupped stone.

three summits is crowned by an Kingsbridge is the terminus of
obelisk erected in 1741, to give the G. S. & W.R., the line running
employment during a famine. to the south. BRIDGES.
The Hill was
thrown open
in 1887 under
the name of
Victoria Park,
in commemo-
ration of her
Majesty'sjubi-
lee. From its
summit a pano-
rama of sur-
passing loveli-
ness is seen.
Bray with its

Er e c i pilous
ead-land ri-
sing sheer from BLUE COAT SCHOOi,,
the sea, the
two Sugar
Loaves, " Kitty Goligher.'

with

the lead works' chimney (ScALP),
and across the Bay, Howth,
and in clear weather even
the distant Mourne Mountains
may be seen. The ascent should
be made from the Dalkey side.

Ballybrack is a village on the
western slope of the Killiney
hills, and is a popular summer
resort.

Kill - o - the - Grange, 6
miles from Dublin and I mile
from BLACKROCK, has long been
regarded as holy ground. There

King's Hospital at Oxman
town-green, commonly called the
Blue Coat School, was founded in
1670 for the education of the sons
of p:orer freemen. The present
building was opened in 1777.
being erected from designs by one
of our less known architects,
Thomas Ivory. The original
design, still to be seen at the
school, and illustrated in Pool and
Cash (1780) exhibits a large
steeple surmounting the central
pile. Want of money has, up to the
present day, hindered the comple-

208

tion of this portion of the archi-
tect's intention. The school
accommodates 100 boys.

KINO'S INNS.

King's Inns (Map C.) In the
reign of Edward I. an Inn of Court
(called Collet's Inn) was held out-
side the city walls'where Exche-
quer-street and South Great
George's-street now stand. Na-
tives descending from the Wick-
low Mountains having plundered
the Exchequer and burned the
records, the seat of justice was
removed inside the walls. In the
reign of Edward III. Chief Baron
Sir Robert Preston resigned his
house, where the CITY HALL now
stands, for Inns of Court, but two
hundred years afterwards (1543)
the Preston family claimed the
house, and the Society got a grant
of the dissolved Dominican Mon-
astery of S. Saviour. In 1542
when Henry VIII. assumed the
title of King of Ireland, the
Society took the name of King' 's
Inn. In 1765 the Inns being
ruinous the Society took a plot of
ground at the upper end of
Henrietta-street from Primate
Robinson, and erected the present
building, the site of the old Inns

being used for the present FOUR
COURT.-. The present building
was designed by James Gandon,
and the stone carving is
by Edward Smith. The
entrance from Henrietta-
street is prison like and
depressing, but the facade
to Constitution - hill is
very fine, and as it stands
in an open space can be
well seen. A very pretty
view of it can be ob-
tained from the front of
the BROADSTOXE Ter-
minus. There are two
wings connected by a
central building with
rusticated base, lofty
columns, and an en-
tablature representing
what is sometimes de-
scribed as " Elizabeth with.

CARYATIDES, KING'S INNS.

at one side, a group of bishops
offering her a bible, and at

209

the other a group of barons
offering a copy of MagnaCharta,''
and sometimes as " the lawyers
and prelates of Ireland receiving a
translation of the Bible and a
Charter from Elizabeth." The
wings have fine doorways orna-
mented with caryatides ; those in
the north wing (which contains
the dining-hall) represent Plenty
and a Bacchante ; those at the en-
trance to the Prerogative Court are
Security and Law. There is an
alto-relievo on each wing, and
above the centre rises a graceful
cupola. The dining hall, 8 1 x 42,
is a fine room with a dais at one
end and portraits round the walls.
Opposite the central archway of
the facade is a stone statue of
Truth which used to stand in the
central hall of the FOUR COURTS.
The Law Library, on the site of
Primate Robinson's house, was
built in 1827 from the designs of
Mr. Darley at a cost of ^"20,000.
Kingstown, Royal Mail
Packet Station, was, before 1821,
called Dunleary, and owes its
present title to one of the all-
too-few- ROYAL VISITS, King
George IV. having embarked
here on his return to England.

EAST PIER.

! .--.: . - -XT.

THE OBELISK, KINGSTOWN.

An Obelisk commemorates the
event. Kingstown had been
but a little fishing village,
but is now the premier watering
place, the head quarters of
the yacht clubs, and has a
population of
over 17,000. The
harbour was be-
gun in 1816, from
designs by Mr.
Rennie, and was
finished only in
1859 at a cost of
^825,000. The
-nl, fa East Pier is 3, 500

feet in length, and
the West Pier
4,950. The depth
of water varies
from 1 5 to 27 feet,
and its extent is
250 acres. At the
end of the East

210

Pier is a revolving light, visible,
in fair weather, nine miles
out at sea. The West Pier has a
red light to define its position,
and the width of the entrance is
760 feet. The Town-hall, opened
in 1880, is a fine building near
the Railway-station, and contains
some good assembly rooms.
Kingstown is seen at its very
gayest during Regatta week
(YACHTING), when all the lead-
ing racers congregate there. A
man-of-war is usually stationed
in the harbour, and a strong fort
with heavy guns has been erected
at the end of the East Pier, to
command the bay. On the East
Pier stands the memorial to
Captain Boyd, R.N., who lost
his life in an attempt to save some
seamen who were drowning in a
storm which occurred in Febru-
ary, 1861. [S. PATRICK'S
CATHEDRAL]. The noble Mail
boats are always an object of
popular enthusiasm, and visitors
make a point of going down to
the Pier to see the arrival or de-
parture of the afternoon boats.
The incoming steamers arrive at
6 a.m. and at 5.25 p.m., and the
Boats from Kingstown leave at
7.5 a.m. and at 7.25 p.m. Trains
for WESTLAND-ROW run in con-
nection with the Cross-Channel
steamers and accomplish the six
miles in a few minutes. The
Dublin and Kingstown Railway
was opened for traffic in 1834.
It cost almost ^63,000 a mile to
construct. The line was the first
which was opened in Ireland and
the second in the United King-
dom.

Lam bay. An Island distant
about 3 miles from Rush. It
is usually visited by steamers which
leave the Custom House Pier
during the summer months on
advertised dates, There is not

much of interest on the island
itself, but the sail in fine weather
is very enjoyable. There are about
looinhabitants,and the intercourse
with the mainland, except during
the summer months, is extremely
limited. An old polygonal castle,
dating from 1467, stood on the
western side of the island, and a
little to the north of this site
stands the present so-called castle,
a square strongly fortified building,
apparently erected to protect the
islanders in times of danger. It
resembles more a modern dwelling
than an ancient castle. The visitor,
if time allows, should climb the
highest point on the island,
Knockbane, 418 feet, from which
a most extensive panorama can be
seen. This island, like those near
Skerries, is famed for the number
and variety of its sea birds. The
name Lambay is believed to be
derived irom Lamb-ey or Lamb-
island.

Langford House (MapC.)
Mary-street commenced 1697 by
Paul Barry, Keeper of the Pipe or
Great Roll of the Exchequer.
Sold 1712 to Rt. Hon. Henry
Ingoldsby ; 1 743 bought by Rt.
Hon. H. L. Rowley (father of
Lord Langford). It was used
for barracks 1800, and 1809 for
the Paving Board It is now
occupied by Messrs. Bewley and
Draper.

Laurence O'Toole

Church Of, S. The Church
ofS. Laurence O'Toole, Sheriff-
street, is a fine structure of dark
blue lime stone, built 1862-3. It
is of early English design, but with
the poverty and faulty application
of detail which is met with in so
many of the earlier Gothic build-
ing of Dublin. The general design
is good, and the fine spire forms a
conspicuous landmark.
Leinster House, which is now

211

the Head Quarters of the famous
ROYAL DUBLIN SOCIETY and of the
SCIENCE and ART DEPARTMENT,
was built about 1745 as a town
house by the twentieth Earl of
Kildare, in "the Molesworth
Fields. " The design is by Richard
Cassels, and the building justifies
Malton's description of it as ' ' the
most stately private residence in the
city." The centre of the West
Front is adorned with four Corin-
thian columnswithentablatureand

rounded by a high stone wall
ornamented with rusticated piers.
The new buildings of the Science
and Art Department and National
Library occupy two sides of this
courtyard instead of the high stone
wall, a dwarf wall surmounted by
iron railings, has been erected. The
garden front of Leinster House is
even more simple than the princi-
pal front, and calls for no special
remark. The buildings of the
NATIONAL GALLERY and the

LEINSTER HOUSE.

pediment : between the pedestals
of the columns are balustrades.
The first storey is rusticated. The
windows are all ornamented by
architraves, and in the second
storey the windows are surmounted
by pediments angular and circular
alternately. From each side of
the front run colonnades of the
Doric order. Originally the entire
space between Kildare-street and
the building was a large courtyard,
more than 210 feet wide, sur-

MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY
stand on the north and south sides
of Leinster Lawn which extends
from Leinster House to Merrion-
square. The interior of Leinster
House is not now open to the
public, but the Hall is well worth
a visit, containing many choicr
paintings, and some remarkably
fine pieces of sculpture. The
Reading-room of the R. D. S.,
and above it the old Picture
Gallery till lately used as the

212

National Library of Ireland, are a
pair of princely rooms, 70 ft. by
24 ft., with fine ceilings supported
by fluted Ionic columns. The
North side is broken by a fine
bow window.

L e i X I i p, if miles beyond
Lucan, is famous for its Salmon-
leap [Danish lax a salmon. In
old Latin writers the place is
named Saltus Salmonis]. There
are numerous pretty walks in this
neighbourhood, and the visitor
will find it most convenient to
take the Steam Tram to LUCAN
and walk through the beautiful

within the present century lost its
popularity, and is only gradually
recovering it now that the Steam
Tram has brought it within com-
paratively easy reach of the
citizens .

Leopard stown, anciently
called Leperstown, from a leper
hospital which was in the neigh-
bourhood, is now famous for its
race-course, opened in 1888. The
race-course is beside Foxrock
Station, on the Harcourt-street
Railway line and is therefore the
most conveniently situated of the
many race-courses near town.

NATIONAL LIBRARY.

demesne to Leixlip. The view
of the Salmon-leap itself has been
greatly injured by an ugly mill
which disfigures the bank just
above the falls. The Dublin side
of the river should be chosen, but
either side will afford pretty
views. Leixlip Castle, founded
in the twelfth century, stands on a
hill commanding the village. In it
King John resided for some time
before his accession ; but Leixlip

Libraries. The chief libraries
of Dublin are, in addition to the
famous library of DUBLIN UNI-
VERSITY, which is not open for
public reading, THE NATIONAL
LIBRARY of Ireland in Kildare-
street, the Public Library of S.
Patrick (Marsh's Library), at S.
PATRICK'S CATHEDRAL. The
Libraries of the KING'S INNS, of
the ROYAL COLLEGE OF PHYSI-
CIANS and of the ROYAL COLLEGE

213

OF SURGEONS are devoted natu-
rally to special subjects. The
ROYAL DUBLIN SOCIETY has a
fine and increasing library for the
use of its members.

There are many lending libraries
in town from which the visitor can
borrow books, the chief being
Green's, Clare-street ; Morrow's,
Nassau-street, and Eason's, Sack-
yille-street. There are also some
free libraries and reading-
rooms supported by the
Corporation under the
Public Libraries Acts of
1 875-7, which are fairly
well patronised by those for
whom they are intended.
Library, National
(Map B). The National
Library, Kildare - street,
forms the northern portion
,of the fine pair of build-
ings erected in 1883 in the
Courtyard of LEINSTER
HOUSE, from the designs
of T. N. Deane and Sons.
Its general features corre-
spond with the MUSEUM
opposite, but the design is
varied to suit its special
purpose.

Entering the large horse-
shoe-shaped hall the curi-
ous internal porch is seen. ;
A staircase leads to a
lobby from which a double"
flight ascends to the prin-
cipal reading - room im-
mediately over the en-
trance hall. This reading
room is horseshoe shaped and
measures 70 x 60 ; it is lofty, with
a fine domed roof. Dwarf book-
cases contain reference books, but
the collection of books is kept
in the wing next Kildare-street,
which is divided into three stories,
each again divided into others
some seven feet high by inter-
mediate iron floors. Thus all

the books are easily reached by
the attendants, but the fine effect
of old fashioned libraries is
lost.

Liffey. The "Anna Liffey" rises
near Kippure, between Upper
Lough Bray and Lough Crog-
heen ; there is another source
named Liffey Head, and the
two streams join ne*r Sally-gap
(1,631), some twelve miles from

ON THE LIFFEY, ABOVE POULAPHTJCA.

Dublin as the crow flies, but
about forty miles as the river
flows. The Liffey flows westward
through BLESSINGTON, under
Poulaphuca bridge ; northwards to
Newbridge, and then gradually
bends to the east by Sallins and
LUCAN and so through the city
and into the sea at PooLBEfJ
LIGHTHOUSE.

214

Lighting In 1697 the Cor-
poration were empowered to erect
public lights in the city and its
Liberties. In 1759 each parish
undertook its own lighting. In
1784 the Paving, Cleansing, and
Lighting Board of the Corporation
took the lighting over. At the
end of last century numerous private
lights were erected before houses
and were attended to by the public
lighters ; the iron supports of some
of these still exist. The ROTUNDA
HOSPITAL Governors managed the
lighting of their own square and
charged a special tax on those
inhabitants who had private lights
jl for single burners and i
145. for double burners.

The oil lamps were replaced by
gas in 1825; this was for many
years supplied by two companies
which afterwards combined and
secured a practical monopoly as
the Alliance and Dublin Con-
sumers' Gas Company; their works
are on the Grand Canal Docks,
Great Brunswick-street. In 1881,
in consequence of an agitation
against this monopoly, the gas
company introduced electric light-
ing into a few of the principal
streets, but the fittings were only
temporary and were soon removed.
In 1892 the Corporation built an
electric station in Fleet-street
(Maps A and B),andintheautumn
commenced lighting three miles
of streets, and supplying private
consumers. The gas testing station
is in Tara-street (Map B.)

Linen Hall (Map C.) An ex-
tensive range of buildings which
consisted of six courts and 557
apartments. Most of it is at present
used for barracks ; the rest has
passed over to other trades, and it
is no longer used as a Linen Hall.

Lough Bray. The Upper and
Lower Lough Bray are well
worth visiting. The drive from

Dublin is some 12 miles long but
passes through exquisite scenery ;
passing Killikee, Lord Massy 's
beautiful place, from which there
is a fine view; the " Hell fire Club"
is seen perched on Mountpelier
hill ; a fine valley is next ascended
and GLENCREE REFORMATORY
passed. The Lower Lake, 1,500
feet above the sea, is surrounded
by towering mountains (of which
Kippure is the highest) except at the
side where the waters are kept up
by the old moraine ; a Swiss cottage
at the side of the lake was a present
from the Lord Lieutenant, the
Duke of Northumberland, to Sir
P. CRAMPTON as a complimentary
offering for his professional services.
The Upper Lake is reached after
a stiff climb, it lies in a wild and
deep hollow. From Lough Bray
there is a fine drive (12 miles) to
Bray, or Roundwood may be vis-
ited, passing Sallygap, Luggelaw
(Lough Tay) and not far from
Lough Dan, a famous trout lake.
The direct road by Sally Gap
leads to Glendalough through
Laragh, passing the Falls of
Macanass, a district most interest-
ing to mineralogists. At Round-
wood the Vartry reservoir
(WATER SUPPLY) is seen.
Lough Dan LOUGH BRAY.
Lough Tay LOUGH BRAY.
Lucan (8 miles) Stations on G. S.
and W. and M. G. W. Railways.
Steam tram from Parkgate-street.
The pleasanter way of visiting
Lucan is by road, and several other
places can be seen in the same
excursion.

Passing through the PHCENIX
PARK and leaving it by the Knock-
maroon gate, the north bank of the
Liffey is reached and kept to
through the " Strawberry Beds,"
which extend over many acres of
slopes to the right, and there straw-
berries and cream may be had in

215

the season, past Woodlands, the
beautiful demesne of Lord Annaly,
with a castle dating from the time
of King John (visitors are per-
mitted to see the demesne).
Crossing the river by a fine stone
bridge the village of Lucan is
reached. There is a ruined church,
the tower of a castle of the PALE,
which belonged in the seventeenth
century to General Sarsfield.
There is a Rath near at hand, the
chambers of which can be entered.
The Spa a famous resort in the last
century and lately restored in
public esteem, is in Lucan De-
mesne, through which visitors are
allowed to walk. The Spa can
be reached by a tunnel under the
road, starting inside the gate of
the Hydropathic. At the other
end of the demesne a bridge leads
into LEIXC.IP (the Irish for
Salmon Leap) (10 miles) ; the
castle rising on the river bank and
covered by ivy, was occupied by
King John before his accession.

Before crossing the bridge into
Leixlip a gate to the left will lead
to the " Salmon Leap," a wide
waterfall with beautifully wooded
banks and a prosaic mill. The
pathway along the river bank
should be followed. At the
proper season the salmon can be
seen leaping these falls.

Luggelaw LOUGH BRAY.

Lugnaquilla RATHDRUM.

Lunatic Asylums. The
Richmond District Lunitic Asy-
lum, North Brunswick-street,
1815. This forms one of a group
with the North Dublin Union
and House of Industry Hospitals,
and all are reached by a common
avenue. There are two principal
buildings, one for male and the
other for female patients, standing
on 52 acres of ground, which
stretch away to the North Cir-
cular-road, and are cultivated by

the inmates, of whom there are
more than a thousand.

S. Patrick's Hospital for the
Insane, Bow-lane, W. (Map D.)
This is generally called Swift's
Hospital, as it was founded by
Dean Swift's bequest of his pro-
perty (; II >)> which is com-
memorated in the verse :

"He left the little all he had,
To found a home for fools

and mad ;
Thus showed by one satiric

touch,
No nation needed it so

much.''

A Parliamentary Grant was given
in addition. The Hospital was
incorporated 1746 and opened
1757. It was designed by George
Semple. The front is of granite,
and extends some 1 50 feet. There
is a spacious hall with a door on
each side ; that on the left leads
to the Board-room, where there is
a portrait of Dean Swift, and that
on the right to the Billiard-room,
which contains some of the sixteen
old mahogany benches from the
Irish House of Lords, which
are in the Asylum. In the
Drawing-room is a mahogany
escritoire, left to the Asylum by
Dean Swift. The various locks
throughout the building are the
original ones, and are good ex-
amples of Irish workmanship.

A new entrance has been added
by Rawson Carrol, 1892.

Patients are admitted at not less
than i per week. There are
generally about 100 inmates.

Stewart Institution for Idiotic
and Imbecile Children and Asylum
for Lunatic Patients. This is
situated at Palmerstown, Chapel-
izod, and was founded in 1869 by
Dr. Stewart. It generally con-
tains about 70 children in the
Institution, in addition to the

216

patients in the Asylum. Some of
the inmates are free ; the rest pay
not less than ^"50 per annum.
. The Criminal Lunatic Asylum
is situated at Dundrum.

There are also many Private
Asylums.

Lusk, a neat village 14 miles
north of Dublin, possesses an
ancient Church, now rebuilt, con-
taining many old tombs of great
interest. At the west end of the
Church is a solid square tower,

LVSK (FROM N.W.).

which at three of its corners has
comparatively modern round
towers incorporated with the
masonry, while at the fourth
corner stands an antique round
tower rising to a height of no
feet.

Mageough Home, Palmer-
ston Park. An extensive range
of buildings founded in 1878,
under the will of Miss Elizabeth
Mageough, for the habitation,

support, and clothing of aged
Protestant females. Each inmate
has a whole or half of a separate
house, of which there are thirty-
nine.

Mail Boats. In the olden
days before HOWTH harbour was
built the mail packets came into
the PIGEON HOUSE harbour.
These vessels were none of the
best, and one can sympathise with
the terrors caused by a passage
from Holyhead when one reads in
W. F. Wakeman's very
interesting accounts that
the passage sometimes,
when winds were con-
trary, occupied a fort-
night, during which as
provisions ran short,
passengers and crew were
obliged to rig up fishing
lines and catch what din-
ner they could. After
1807, Howth, then a
mere fishing village, be-
came the packet station,
and here in 1821 King
George IV. landed in
one of those amazingly
rare ROYAL VISITS to
Ireland. The opening,
in 1821, of KINGSTOWN
Pier was followed by a
transference of the Mail
Station to this Harbour,
and no finer harbour
exists in Europe. The
mail boats make the pas-
sage to or from Holyhead in 35
hours, and the run to Dublin is a
matter of ten minutes
Mails. There are from five to
six deliveries of mails in town
according to position, the most
important being the cross-channel
deliveries at 8 a.m. and 7 p.m.
There is one delivery on Sundays
about 8.15 a.m. The despatches
of mails are very numerous, but
the most important leave the

217

G.P.O.at 6 a.m. and 6.10 p.m.
(POST OFFICE.)

Malahide, 9 miles from Dublin,
is beautifully situated on an es-
tuary of the sea called Broadwater
Meadows. At low water, unfor-
tunately, the harbour is almost
dry. This fact and the amazing
lack of enterprise exhibited by the
Railway Co. are together respon-
sible for the neglect of this once
fashionable watering-place. For
those who like quiet with good
boating, &c., Malahide is a para-
dise, but the attractions of the
modern fashionable seaside resort
it certainly cannot boast. Near
the town is Malahide Castle,
seat of Lord Talbot de Malahide,
to' whose ancestor Henry II.
granted the lands in 1174. The
castle contains some very fine
carved oak wainscotting, and per-
mission to view it can be obtained
when the family are absent.
Close by are the ruins of the
chapel, with some interesting
tombs ; among others worthy
of notice is that of the Hon. Maud
Plunkett, whose first husband,
Mr. Htissey, was slain on the day
of her marriage, leaving her the
singular celebrity of having been
maid, wife, and widow in one day.
Readers will remember the lines
of Gerald Griffin's fine ballad,
" The Bridal of Malahide ?. i ,. , -

" She sinks on the meadow,

In one morning tide
A wife and a widow,
A maid and a bride."

Mansion House, The,

stands in Dawson-street, and is
an unpretentious building, con-
taining some fine apartments in
which the Lord Mayor entertains
the citizens. There are some good
portraits of former Lords Lieuten-
ant, and in the garden an eques-
trian statue of King George I.

erected in 1720 on Essex Bridge
and transferred in 1798 to its
present position . The inscription
is of interest. " Be it remembered
that, at a time when rebellion and
disloyalty were the characteristics
of the day, the loyal Corporation
of the City of Dublin re-elevated
this statue of the illustrious
House of Hanover." Within re-
cent years the front of the
Mansion House has been some-
what improved and a fine porch
added. Among the finest rooms
in the building are the Oak room,
about 50 feet long, where public
breakfasts are given, and the
superb Round Room, erected in
1821, for the express purpose of
entertaining King George IV.
The chamber is a perfect circle of
90 feet diameter, lighted by a
lantern 50 feet from the ground.
A supper room was added in 1892.
It is worth notice that the Mansion
House is a red brick building of
the time of Queen Anne, the stucco
facing being a modern addition.
The house was built in 1710, and
was purchased by the Corporation
in 17 1 5, as a residence for the Lord
Mayor. There are some fine
portraits in the building.
Maps. Not very many ancient
maps of the city are in existence,
and of these some are very diffi-
cult to procure. Chief among
them are Speed's, published in
1610. Brooking, with VIEWS,
1728; Rocque, 1756; Cook's
Royal Map, with VIF.WS, 1821 ;
Heffernan's, with VIEWS, 1861 and
1868 ; and those published from

:ar to year in Thorn's Directory,
he Ordnance Survey of 1837
was revised in 1864 and in 1887.
Mark, Church of S.
(Map B.) S. Mark's Church,
Great Brunswick-street, was fin-
ished in 1729, the parish having
been cut off from St. Andrew's in

218

1707. The
exterior is of
dark lime-
stone and is
barnlike ;
the facade to
S. Mark's-
street has an
unfinished
look. The
interior
measures 80
by 30. In
1892-3 the
wall sur-
round ing
the grave-
yard was re-
moved, and
a railing substituted, the ground
being put in order. This has
been a great improvement. At
the same time an open-air pulpit
was erected at the south-east
corner.

Markets. Dublin is not well
supplied with markets, and many
of the poorer dealers sell from
barrows in the streets ; this is
well seen on Saturdays. Thomas

SOUTH CITY MARKET.

with some so-called " baronial "
ornamentation, was opened in
1 88 1 by the South City Markets
Company, Limited. It is a large
square, its principal side being in
South Great George's-street, and
is easily approached from Graft on -
street and Dame-street. It was
built on the site of the Castle
Market, built 1704, and rebuilt as
New Castle Market 1783. The

street during the week preceding Company also widened part of
Christmas is an extended market Cr."*-fc r. r ^t /- > *_.. u..

for turkeys and geese, the stalls
being farmers' carts from which
the horses have been taken.

The South City Market, a hand-
some building of Domestic Gotic

A STREET STALL.

South Great George's-street, but
unfortunately have been unable
to complete this improvement at
the Dame-street end. The South
City Market has never been popu-
lar with stall-holders although the
external shops are
well occupied ; it
suffered severely
by fire in 1892.

The Ormond
Market was
opened in 1682 ;
some quaint scraps
still exist, but the
trade has been di-
verted to the FISH
AND VEGETABLE
MARKETS.

The Fruit Mar-

219

ket used to be held inside the
walls of the Old Prison in Green-
street ; it has been moved to the
FISH AND VEGETABLE MARKET.

Marino CLONTARF.

Marsh's Library. (Map A.)
This valuable collection of books
was given by Archbishop Marsh
in 1694 for the use of the public.
The collection includes many
volumes of considerable interest,
ami in some the visitor is shown
annotations made by the famous
Dean Swift usually more forcible
than polite. The quaint old wood-
work of the Library is well worth
seeing, and there is in the atmos-
phere of the entire place an old-
world flavour which is distinctly
interesting. Few Dubliners seem
to be aware of its exist-
ence, and fewer still
have ever handled its
musty tomes. (ST.
PATRICK'S CATHE-
DRAL).

Mary's Abbey
ABBEY OF S. MARY.

Mary, Church of
S. (Map C.) In
Mary-street, was built
on the formation of
the parish in 1697.
It is of poor design,
with a stunted unfi-
nished-looking tower.
The churchyard at the
south side has lately
been opened to the
public, but is not well
laid out. It stretches
in front of Jervis-street
Hospital. There used
to be a fountain at the
north side of the church. The
interior of the church is gloomy.
Amongst the many mural monu-
ments is one to the Rev-
Robert Law, Rector, who died
1789.

Masonic Hall. (Map B.)

The Masonic Hall, 17 and 18
Molesworth-street is a handsome
building of cut stone built from
the design of Edward Holmes,
1877, at an estimated cost of
.8,000. It has a fine porch and
three stories of Doric, Ionic, and
Corinthian design leading up to
a pediment in the tympanum of
which are masonic emblems. It
contains handsomely decorated
rooms for the various branches of
the order; the Grand Lodge
room is 72 feet long x 40 feet
wide, and 32 feet high; it con-
tains frescoes, portraits and an
organ. The office of the schools
is at No. 1 6. A Victoria Jubilee
Masonic Annuity Fund was
founded in 1888.

MASONIC FEMALE ORPHAN SCHOOL,.

Masonic Orphan
Schools. The Female Orphan
School was founded in 1790 by a
few masons who subscribed and
sent some orphans to a day school ;
next a school for twenty girls was
opened in 1792 in a lane off

220

Prussia-street. In 1852 Burling-
ton House in Mespil-road (now
Margaret Hall) was taken and the
number of inmates was increased.
More space being needed, the
present school at Ball's Bridge
was built, 1880-2. It is a hand-
some brick and terra-cotta building
of Elizabethan design with corner
tower and cupola ; it was designed
by Messrs. McCurdy and Mitchell.
The interior is beautifully fitted
up. The terra-cotta fountain was
bequeathed by Mr. Sawyer. Two
great bazaars have been held in aid
of this school, one in 1882 realised
a profit of .6,601, while in 1892
the enormous sum of 21,842
was made. Most of the latter
sum has been invested and the
interest will be devoted to helping
(educationally and otherwise)
pupils on leaving. Part has been
spent on an infirmary, dormi-
tories and hall. The school
holds a hundred girls. Visitors
are shown over the building on
Wednesday afternoon (Blackrock
tram).

The Orphan Boys' School was
started at Sandy mount in 1869
and was moved in 1887 to Rich-
view, Clonskeagh, where a house
and twenty-four acres of land had
been secured. The additional
buildings were designed by
Thomas Drew, R.H.A., who
also added a wing, 1894. The
school contains about 60 boys,
and the annual cost of mainte-
nance and education for each is
only about 25 per annum. The
average cost in the girls school is
about the same.

Mater Misericord iae
Hospital, Eccles-street, is the
finest hospital in Dublin. It was
opened 1861, but two wings have
since been added. The front
nearly 300 ft. long is of granite
with slightly projecting pavilions

at the ends and a nol>le centre
projection over seventy feet long,
with a recessed portico and lofty
Ionic columns. It was intended
to build a cupola, but its base has
been removed. Curved steps lead
to the entrance hall, and other
steps lead down to the out-patient
department. The hospital con-
tains 350 beds and was buiit by the
Sisters of Mercy, but is open to
all religions.

Matthew, Church of
S., Irishtown. The parish
of S. Matthew originally formed
part of the parish of Donnybrook.
Its church formerly designated
"The Royal Chapel of S.
Matthew, Ringsend," was a
royal donative chapelry without
cure of souls but subject to,
episcopal jurisdiction. It was
erected during the reign of Queen
Anne in the year 1704, for the
revenue officers and other in-
habitants of Ringsend who, on
account of the tides, could not
always attend Donnybrook church
It afterwards became a garrison
chapel, then to all intents and
purposes a chapel-of-ease to
Donnybrook, and was finally,
immediately after the passing of
the Irish Church Act in 1870,
made the church of the new
parish of S. Matthew, Irishtown.
The population of the parish is
nearly 5,000, of whom 1,100 are
members of the Church of Ireland.
Ringsend is inhabited by a large
Protestant colony, the descendants
of English fishermen who came
over in the last century. In
the year 1878 the vicar of the
parish, the Rev. Robt. B. Stoney,
D. D. , assisted by the parishioners
and other friends, set about the
rebuilding and enlargement of
the church which had become
quite inadequate to the needs of
the parish. Plans for its restora-

221

tion were drawn by F. S. Fuller,
of Dublin, and on the 2nd of
October, 1879, the church was
reopened and dedicated by
Archbishop Trench.

The restored church of S.
Matthew is of cruciform shape
with lofty tower 95 feet high, open
roof, lancet windows, large and
spacious chancel, and occupies
nearly twice the space of the old
building. Since the restoration
it has been further adorned with
handsome marble mosaic pave-
ment in the

chancel and .

passages a
peal of tubu-
lar bells,
stained -glass
windows in
the sacra-
rium or apse,
besides min-
or improve-
ments in the
porch and
outside. The
total cost of
all these im-
provements
has been not
less than .
^4,000. S./K
Matthew's^!
church is en-
tirely free

and unappropriated, and is open
everyday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
for private prayer. In the church-
yard are the tombs and monu-
ments of many leading citizens
of a past generation, viz :
Vavasours, Lundy-Footes, Fitz-
gibbons, Roes, Askins, &c., &c.
There are also several monuments
in the church to deceased chap-
lains and other persons. The
National schools attached to the
church are attended by over 200
children.

S. MATTHEWS CHURCH.

Maynooth (15 miles), a station
on the Midland Great Western
Railway. The Castle is a fine
ruin ; it was erected 1426 by the
sixth Earl of Kildare, and
dismantled on account of
the rebellion of Lord Thomas
Fitzgerald" Silken Thomas."
The remains are of considerable
extent and are open to the public.
Carton, the seat of the Duke
of Leinster contains about i.ooo
acres. The Rye, a tributary of the
Liflfey, passes through, and there are
several lakes.
The grounds
are open to the
public. The
house was de-
signed by Cas-
sels.

Maynooth
College was
founded in
1795. There
are t h r ee
blocks of
building and
an estate of
some eighty
acres.

Meath Hos-
pital and
County
Dublin In-
firmary.
(Map A.) The

Meath Hospital was opened in
1753 in the Coombe. In 1816
the present site in Heytesbury-
street was taken ; it formerly
belonged to Dean Swift and was
called Naboth's Vineyard or the
Dean's Vineyard. T. Pleasants
gave ;6,ooo towards the building
and in 1820, Dublin County gave
.4,788. The Hospital was opened
in 1822. In 1887 the John
Barbour Wing was commenced.
Some of the leading men of the
famous old Dublin School of

222

Medicine were attached to the
Meath Sir Philip Crampton,
William Stokes, Robert J. Graves,
John Cheyne. The nursing is
done by Red Cross Sisters, and
the hospital has a Convalescent
Home for its patients at Bray.

Mechanic's Institute (Map
C.) Lower Abbey-street has a fair
library and reading rooms. The
News room can be used on pay-
ment of a penny. The theatre
attached to it has been turned
into a music hall. The Institute
is not well supported.

Medical Schools. There are
three Medical Schools in Dublin
I. Dublin University M.S., 1711,
Lincoln-place ; 2. Royal Col-
lege of Surgeons M.S., 1789,
(including the Carmichael, 1812,
and Ledwich, 1836, Schools) ; 3.
Catholic University M.S., Cecilia-
St., 1855. All these Schools are
open to students reading for any of
the Universities or Colleges, but
the majority of Trinity students
attend the Dublin University
School ; those who read for the
conjoint diplomas of the Royal
Colleges study in the College of
Surgeons School, and most of
those reading for the Royal
University attend Cecilia-street.

Med ici ne ACADEMY OF MEDI-
CINE, ROYAL.

Mel I ifont Abbey, info L uth
on the border of Meath, is about
6 miles from DROGHEDA, and lies
in a sheltered glen, through which
the little river Mattock winds.
The ruins consist of the so-called
Baptistry,a very beautiful building,
octagonal in shape, with semi-
circular headed arches in each face.
These are of most elegant design
and workmanship, and will
attract the attention of every
student of archaeology. The
Chapel of S. Bernard is a good
example of vaulting, and the

capitals of the columns are
excellently designed. The bases
of the great nave piers have
been within late years laid bare,
and much of the old tiling, as well
as many scraps of carving, then
recovered, may be now seen in
S. Bernard's Chapel. The great
Tower or Archway nearer to the
entrance of the valley, was erected
probably for defensive purpose,
and has been very roughly treated.
The Chapel on the hill is a com-
paratively modern erection. At
Mellifont lived the fair, but frail
Dearvorgilla, whose elopement
with Dermod McMurrough led to
the Saxon invasion of Ireland in
1172.

Mendicity, Association
for the Prevention of,
This useful Association was
founded in 1818 during a great
prevalence of famine and fever.
Its work is carried on in Moira
house, Usher's-island a portion
of the south quays close to King's-
bridge. This house formerly the
suburban residence of the Earl of
Moira has been altered beyond
recognition, the entire upper storey
being removed and the hall cut
up. From the yard at the back
the view of the house is more
interesting and its age can be seen.
The chief works carried on by the
Association are the providing of
daily meals (over 100,000 per
annum are given), the transmission
of strangers to their homes, and
the supplying of cheap baths.

Merrion, a station on the Kings-
town Railway line 3^ miles from
town, has a short pier at the end
of which are good swimming
baths, with accommodation for
both sexes. The Sandymount
tramway runs direct to this
pleasant spot, where bands often
perform during the summer even-
ings.

223

Merrion Square (Map B.) is
the most beautiful of the Dublin
squares and is the largest after S.
Stephen's-green. It contains about
12^ acres and was laid out in 1762
in which year the north side was
commenced ; houses were being
built up to 1820. Three sides are
surrounded by houses, but the
west side is faced by the Leinster
Lawn with LEINSTER HOUSE,
the NATIONAL GALLERY, and
MUSEUM at the sides. Opposite
the Leinster
Lawn are the
remains of a
large and
ambitiously
designed
fountain, de-
dicated to the
Duke and
Duchess of
Rutland,
which was
erected by
Coadeini79i.
Sixteen years
after its erec-
tion it was
cracked and
bulged, but,
since that,
time has dealt
tenderly with
it, and it is
picturesque in

its decay. The north side is
mostly occupied by Doctors. The
square is not open to the public.

Michan, Catholic Church
Of S. ( Map C.) S.Michan's Church
is built between Anne-street and
Halston-street. From the Reforma-
tion until about 1700 the Roman
Catholics of the parish had no
settled place of worship but mass
was said in private houses. The
chapel of a convent in Channel-
row was about 1700 converted
to secular use for the parishioners.

MERRION SQUARE, N,

In 1702 Dr. Nary was appointed
P.P. and built a chapel on the
south side of Mary's-lane where
he served until his death in 1738.
The present church (1811-14)
has its principal facade to Anne-
street, in the porch are the arms
of Captain Bryan who contributed
largely to the building. The Hal-
ston-street fa9ade (1893) designed
by G. C. Ashlin, R.H.A., is per-
pendicularGothic withaside tower
containing the entrance and ending
in a corner
turret. The
interior con-
tains much
stucco; over
the high altar
is a full length
figure of the
Saviour in
alto - relievo.
Thesidealtars
have painting
of the Virgin
and Child and
S. Francis.
The registers
are complete
from 1725.
Michan,
Church
Of S. (Map
C), Church-
street. There
are few build-
ings whose age is so hard
to discern. There was on this
site an old church of Danish
foundation (circ. 1095) which
acted as a parish church for all
the north side of the river until
1697. This old church was dedi-
cated to S. Michan, and its south
aisle to S. Syth. The present
church was built about 1685, but
an inscription tells "This church
underwent thorough restoration
in 1828." At this date the
chancel was removed, and it is

224

impossible to
tell how much
remained.
The tower is
a fine square
structure with
embattled
parapets ; it
forms a con-
spicuous ob-
ject in all
general views
of the city.
Over its west
door is the
inscription :
" This surely
is the house of
the Lord,
1 686," but this
and the win-
dow above are
probably in-
sertions, and
the tower the
same 'as is
shown in
Speed's Map,
1 6 to, and pos-
sibly the original tower of the
Xlth Century. The interior is
spacious, and contains portions of
some old tombs. The recumbent
effigy in a niche to the south of
the chancel is supposed to be
S. Michan, Bishop and Confessor.
On the front of the organ case is
fine carving of musical instruments;
this organ was said to have been
the Fishamble-street organ on
which Handel played the " Mes-
siah ;" but the organ he played on
was a chamber one which used to
be shown in 64 Eccles-street (F.
JOHNSTON.)

The church plate is interesting
there is an early seTenteenth
century Spanish copper gilt re-
pousse and highly chased chalice,
a silver gilt chalice of 1676, and a
silver gilt chalice, the stem and

S. MICHAN S CHURCH.

base of which
date from
1516. The
vaults under
the church are
very extensive
and have the
curious pro-
perty of pre-
venting or ar-
resting decay.
Bodies are
buried in
wooden cof-
fins and grad-
ually undergo
a mummifying
process, with
out the evolu-
tion of the
gases of de-
cay. A man
who died at
the age of in,
the brothers
Sheares who
were executed
for rebellion
and others are

shown to the curious. The vaults
are still used for interment. In
the churchyard there are nume-
rous interesting graves ; on the
tomb of Lucas, ob. 1771, are the
following lines by Lewis :

Lucas ! Hibernia's friend, her joy

and pride,
Her powerful bulwark and her

skilful guide.
Firm in the Senate, steady to his

trust,
Unmoved by fear and obstinately

just.

Under slabs side by side at the
west lie the United Irishmen
Oliver Bond who died in Newgate
under sentence of death, 1798, and
the Rev. W. Jackson. The grave
of Emmet is legendary, he is really
buried in Glasnevin churchyard.

225

Moira House MENDICITY.

Molyneux Church (Map A.).
Peter-street. It is connected with
Sir Capel Molyneux' house.
Astley took the house and built
his Amphitheatre, which was
afterwards altered into a chapel
for the Molyneux Asy-
lum for Blind Females,
the inmates of which
lived in the adjoining
house. It is now the
Albert Church and
Molyneux Retreat for
aged females.

Monasterboice, 4

miles from Droghecla,
and 2 from MELLIFONT,
contains, among many
ecclesiastical antiquities,
two of the finest exam-
ples of old Celtic crosses.
The largest stands 27
feet in height (including
the base) and is most
excellently sculptured ;
some of the subjects in
the separate panels can
still be identified ; such
are the Ascended
Saviour, the Empty
Tomb, David and Go-
liath, &c., but on the
smaller cross practically
every panel is as fresh
almost as when the artist
completed his work some
nine centuries ago. The
height is 15 feet, and the
figures of warriors and
bishops, with which each
panel is richly adorned,
stand out in high relief
from the stone, supplying a simply
invaluable means of studying
the dresses in use during the
period at which this noble work
was executed. The small circu-
lar targes of the soldiers are
worthy of note. The lowest
panel on the east side is manifestly

a representation of the Garden of
Eden, the Eating of the Fruit and
the consequent Expulsion. Above
is a panel of which subject is more
obscure though the figures areplain
enough. Another panel higher
up represents the Adoration of the

MUIREDACH S CROSS AND ROUND
TOWER.

Magi, a star being visible above
the Holy Child's head. The
centre of the circle on the same
side is a representation of the Day
of Judgment ; our Lord, with a
cross and sceptre, is depicted with
the elect upon His right hand,
singing and playing upon harps,
Q

226

while on the left hand devils are
driving away the condemned.
Immediately below is a huge pair
of scales in which S. Michael is
weighing souls, while Satan
crouching below is trying to turn
the scales in his own favour ; on
the other side of the cross are three
panels on the main shaft, each
containing three figures only.
The inner part of the circle on
this side shows the Crucifixion,
with soldiers piercing our Lord's
side. The base of the shaft has
an inscription in Irish, which has
been interpreted by the learned
Dr. Petrie : " A Prayer for Muire-
dach, by whom this cross was
made." There were two Muire-
dachs connected with Monaster-
boice, one died 844 ; but the
second, who died in 924, was a
man of higher distinction and
greater wealth, so that the erection
of toe crosses is, with great proba-
bility, assigned to him. The
present cross stands 15 feet in
height and measures 6 feet across
the arms. The Monastery which
was founded in 512, A.D., by S.
Bute, was the most famous north
of Dublin, until the neighbouring
Monastery of MELLIFONT arose.
Of the two Chapels of which
fragments remain, one may be as
old as the sixth century. The
larger one is very much later
possibly the thirteenth century.
The Round Tower is a fine ex-
ample of these characteristically
Irish structures.

Before leaving the graveyard,
the visitor will do well to read
some of the inscriptions on the
tombstones. One records how
the stcne was erected by the
mourner, in " filial memory of his
beloved wife ! "

Monuments STATUES.

Mornington House, famous
as the birth-place of the great

Duke of Wellington, is No. 24
Upper Merrion-street. The house
needs no particular description.
It is now employed for offices in
connection with the Irish Land
Commission Courts. The dis-
cussion as to whether the great
Duke was or was not born in this
house is definitely settled by the
fact that the prescription com-
pounded by Mr. Evans of Dawson-
street for the mother on this
interesting occasion is still to be
seen framed in the shop, and
bears the above address.

Mount Jerome CEMETERY.

Mountjoy-square (Map c.),
1792-1818, is situated on the top
of a hill and contains about 4
acres. Having been built from a
single plan the houses have not
the irregularity of skyline so
frequent in Dublin, which
pleasing as it is with gables, is the
reverse with parapets. It was
intended to make each side an
architectural whole, with central
pediment and end pavilions, but
this ambitious design, like many
others in Dublin, had to be given
up for wantof money. Thesquare
is prettily laid out but is not open
to the public.

Museum Natural
H i Story. (Map B.) The
Natural History Museum is con-
tained in a handsome building
(designed by Captain Poke, R.E. ,
under the superintendence of
R. Griffith, LL.D., 1855, on
the south side of the Leinster
Lawn. It can be entered from
Merrion-square or from the
SCIENCE AND ART MUSEUM.
The nucleus of the collection
belonged to the ROYAL DUBLIN-
SOCIETY who handed it over to
the Science and Art Department.
Entering from the Science and Art
Museum the annexe is first reached,
this contains the Paljeontological

227

collection. Passing the vestibule
with its fine case of gulls theground
floor is entered. Here are the
fish, amphibians and reptiles.
Cases on the south side illustrate
the Geographical Distribution of
Animals. The coloured casts of
fish are worthy of notice. As-
cending the staircase at the far end
the main room is entered; it is
lofty with two galleries and a
glass roof. A fine case of anthro-
poid apes is here seen. The In-
vertebrates and Mammals occupy
the floor ; the case at the far end
(first to the left when entering
from the grand staircase) is an
Index case to Animal life, every
Order being illustrated. The first
gallery is devoted to birds, those
is cases I to 1 1 being Irish. The
upper gallery contains Insects,
special collection of injurious in-
sects and a collection of Birds'
Nests and Eggs. The vestibule
contains the Mammals of Great
Britain and Ireland, including a
fine skeleton of the Irish elk.

The General Handbook to the
Science and Art Museum contains
information about the collections,
and fuller particulars can be ob-
tained from special harfdbooks, to
the Vertebrates, Invertebrates and
Birds.

Museum Science and
Art (Map B.). The Science and
Art Museum, Kildare-street, was
built in 1885, from the design of
T. N. Deane and Sons. It forms
one of a fine group of buildings,
its chief facade (200 feet) being at
the south side of the courtyard of
Leinster House, and facing the
National Library designed at the
same time by the same architects.
There are also facades to Kildare-
street (186 feet) and Kildare-place.
The building is very fine and con-
sists of a central portion and two
wings, the central portion contains

the rotunda (the dome of which
overtops the wings) the central
court and grand staircase.

It can be entered from Kildare-
street, passing through the court-
yard of Leinster House, and getting
a good view of the outside of
Leinster House, the National
Library and the Museum, or
from Merrion-square through the
NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM.
We will suppose the former en-
trance chosen. Passing through
the semi-circular colonnade the
rotunda is first entered ; it is a
fine and graceful apartment 60
feet in diameter, with a domed
roof and gallery supported on 20
columns of Irish marble, with
richly carved capitals. It contains
casts from the Antique and a
group of Indian cannon. The
attendant sells general catalogues
for 3d. and catalogues of soecial
departments at 3d. and4d., but the
Museum is so well labelled that these
are hardly necessary, especially as
in each room a plan of the building
is hung up with the room marked
in colour. The floor in the rotunda
as elsewhere on the ground floor
is set with tesserae in beautiful
designs, the carved doors are
Italian, the doorcases and fire-
places are of pottery.

The central court is next entered,
it is splendidly designed and of fine
proportion, 123 x 74 feet. The
central portion is sunk with a tier
of steps leading down to it, and
there is a gallery, supported on
iron columns which are continued
to the roof, light being derived
from above. This court contains
a large number of objects of in-
terest immediately opposite to the
entrance is a wrought iron railing
from Hampton Court Palace, to
the right a cast of the tomb of
Carlo Marsuppini and a cast of a
monolith from Central America

228

attract attention and to the left is
a fine statue of Lieutenant W. R.
Pollock Hamilton, one of the
heroic defen-
of

ties of Greece and Rome, chiefly
electrotypes, but there are some
fine painted vases. Room 2 west

229

illustrates Egypt and Assyria, the
most valuable original is a figure
of Rui, circ, 1300 B.C. There are
other originals, electrotypes, casts,
and paper moulds.

Room 3 west contains a well
arranged and fairly extensive
ethnographical collection which
is well illustrated by maps. Room

one of the most interesting objects
in the Museum, a large relief map
of Ireland on a horizontal scale of
I inch to the mile, and a vertical
scale of ii inches to the mile.
This map is coloured so as to
show the geological structure
of the island. American photo-
graphic transparencies fill the win-

SCIENCE AND ART MUSEUM CENTRAL COURT.

4 west, contains a collection of
musical instruments including the
piano used by Moore when writing
his Irish Melodies. Room 5 west,
contains specimens of Indian,
Persian and Moorish art.

Passing the rotunda, room 5
east is entered, it contains a
beautiful i6th century Venetian
Well-head. Room 4 east contains

dows. Room 3 east contains
Geological collections, including
Irish fossils and rocks. Rooms
I and 2 east contain the Mineral -
ogical collection ; Irish minerals
are in the latter room.

Thegrand staircase isof Portland
stone with broad marble handrail,
and marble .panels in the walls.
It is massive and effective.

230

The gallery of the Central
Court contains a large variety of
objects such as enamels, fans,
metal work and some Irish an-
tiquities. Room I west contains
models of looms, &c. Room 2
west contains industrial models ;
the model of the old wooden
bridge at Schaffhausen, and that
of Wigham's gas lighthouse will
attract attention. Rooms 3 and

5 west contains arms and armour,
The gallery of the rotunda con-
tains casts of modern sculpture.
Room 5 east contains cast of ivor-
ies, metal work, &c. Room 4 east
contains furniture, in it are speci-
mens of Bossi work (marble inlaid
with coloured cements). Room
3 east contains pottery, porcelain
and glass. Room 2 east, ivory
and wood carving, &c. Room I

SCULPTURE HALL, NATIONAL GALLERY.

4 contain the magnificent col-
lection of Irish antiquities made
by the Royal Irish Academy and
transferred by them to the Museum
in 1890. S. Patrick's Bell, 5th
century, Tara Brooch, gth century,
Cross of Cong, nth century,
Croziers, 6th century, are only a
few amongst the treasures which
deserve careful study. The present
arrangement is temporary. Room

east, lace and embroideries ; there
is also an interesting carved wood
chimneypiece removed from an
old house in Kildare-place.

Going up still higher the Her-
barium and Botanical Museum is
reached. The ante-room contains
an Index Museum which is of
great assistance to those learning
botany.

From room 2 east (ground floor)

231

a passage leads to the NATURAL
HISTORY MUSEUM. It contains
amongst other objects a royal
Sanctuary from Mandalay, a
Buddist temple from Ceylon,
watercolours by Peter de Wint
and an old Dublin doorway.
Music. ROYAL IRISH ACADEMY
OF Music.

this up to ,21,500 and in 1859
the gallery was commenced. It is
a handsome Renaissance building,
corresponding to the Natural His-
tory Museum at the opposite side
of Leinster Lawn. The first room
entered is the Sculpture or Dargan
Hall, the room at the end was
intended to hold Marsh's Library,

GALLERY OF THE OLD MA8XKBS.

National Gallery (Map B.),
Merrion-square, west. The com-
mittee of the Dargan Testimonial
Fund in 1854 voted ,5,000 out of
the funds contributed to com-
memorate the public services of
William Dargan in defraying the
expenses of the Exhibition of 1853
at his own cost, towards the
erection of u public gallery of
Art. ParliamentarygranUbrought

but is now the National Historical
and Portrait gallery. A handsome
staircase leads to the large gallery
of Old Masters over the Dargan
Hall, and there are other smaller
rooms for watercolours and modern
pictures. The gallery is rich in
examples of the Dutch School.
It is open free on Mondays,
Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Satur-
days from 12 to dusk (or 6 p.m.)

ENTRANCE TO THE TUMULUS AT NEW GRANGE.

233

and on Sundays from 2 to dusk
(or 6 p.m.)- Admission on Thurs-
days and Fridays from 10 to 4, 6d.
There is a very good critical and
descriptive catalogue for 6d.

National Library
LIBRARY, NATIONAL.

Nelson's Pillar. (Map C.)
Nelson's Pillar stands in the
middle of Sackville-street at the
junction of Henry-street and Earl-
street ; it was erected in 1808.
It consists of a pedestal, column
and capital, surmounted by a fine
stone statue of Nelson, leaning on
a capstan, executed by Kirk.
The entire height is 134 feet.
The column, which is Doric or
Tuscan, was designed by W.
Wilkius, Fellow of Caius
College, Cambridge, and is ex-
ceedingly ugly ; this may be
partly accounted for by money
falling short, and the original
design having to be modified.
The pedestal bears the following
names with their dates : Tra-
falgar, XXI October MDCCCV,
S. Vincent, XIV February,
MDCCXCVII, the Nile, I
August, MDCCXCVIII, Copen-
hagen, II April, MDCCCI, and
was designed to have a sarcophagus
over the word Trafalgar. The pil-
lar is awkwardly situated, inter-
rupting the traffic between Henry-
street and Earl-street, and many of
the citizens wish to have it removed
to the head of Sackville-street.
In 1894 the steps were taken away,
a doorway inserted, the inscrip-
tions gilded, and iron railings
erected, G. P. Beater being the
architect.

New Grange, the finest of
the series of tumuli, which lie for
some miles along the northern
bank of the Boyne, is one of the
most remarkable examples in
Europe of Rude Stone Monu-
ments, and may fitly be compared

to the Pyramids of Egypt in de-
sign. The visitor to Dublin
should on no account leave our
shores without seeing so unique a
monument. Many accounts of
early excavations or plunderings
of this cave has come clown to us,
but the reader who is interested
in the archaeology of the matter
will find an interesting account by
Mr. George Coffey in the A'./.
Academy Transactions, 1892. The
actual sepulchral chamber is en-
tered by a long passage, more
than 20 yards long, and so low in
parts that it is necessary to crawl
for a short distance on hands and
knees. This small inconvenience
need not, however, deter even
ladies from entering New Grange,
as the greater part of the passage
is quite lofty enough to enable one
to walk with a slight stoop only,
and the height increases rapidly
as one nears the actual chamber,
which is 19 ft. 6 in. in height, and
appears to have been formed by
placing large slabs of stone
over one another so that they
project gradually inwards, until
the top is closed by one flat stone.
Of course the vast weight of
earth and stones which composes
the mound itself, retains the
slabs above described in position.
Around the main chamber, with
its recesses, runs an upright
course of stones, 7 or 8 feet in
height, which exhibit most of the
carvings for which the tumulus is
so famous. The cave is, like
almost all such tumuli, cruciform
in shape, and the recesses in New
Grange are of different dimen-
sions. The north recess, facing
the entrance, is 7 ft. 6 inches in
depth, but has little of the char-
acteristic ornament in it except
for one remarkable fact connected
with the ornament, alluded to in
Sir W. Wilde's Boyne and

234

Blackwater, that it "not only
covered portions of the stones ex-
posed to view, but extended over
those surfaces which were com-
pletely concealed from view, and
where a tool could not have
reached them." This would
naturally imply that the stones
were carved before being placed
in position.

The Eastern recess, 8 feet in
depth and almost equally wide,
has two magnificent slabs of rock
to act as doorway, on the top of
that to the right may be seen
some carving of the lozenge
pattern which is very common in
Ireland. Varieties can be seen
in the passage on many of the
upright stones. The roofing stone
of the Eastern recess is the most
richly carved of all the stones in
the tumulus. Lozenges, c'og-tooth,
spirals and concentric circles are
intermingled with one another in
marvellous variety. This recess,
like (bat on the West of the
chamber, contains a large basin
with the centre depressed. In
the centre of the chamber also
stands a large basin greatly de-
pressed and exhibiting two cup-
hollows. It seems probable that
these basins were intended either
to hold the actual body interred
or burned, or to hold an urn in
which the remains were deposited.
The west recess is of interest
chiefly as containing the remark-
able fern-leaf marking on the face
of the slab to the right, which
also has upon it the very ex-
ceptional figure which, alone of
the New Grange markings, ap-
pears to be more than a mere
ornament. Opinions are likely to
remain divided as to its meaning,
but the latest interpretation by
Mr. CofTey is that the figure
represents a boat. Besides the
great stone at the entrance to the

mound, there have been dis-
covered two other inscribed stones
which exhibit very remarkable
carving. These were displayed
for the first time, within many
centuries, when the monument
was placed in 1891 under the
Protection of Ancient Monu-
ments Act. The visitor to New
Grange will find it necessary to
bring with him some strong
light such as an electric lamp or
magnesium wire. Candles are
practically useless.
Newspapers. The first news-
paper published in Dublin was
Pile's Occurrences which appeared
in 1700, but there had previously
appeared a single leaf printed on
both sides and entitled The Dub-
lin Nevas Letter. The learned
Mr. Gilbert was the first to draw
attention to the publication of this
sheet which appeared in 1685.

Dublin has always possessed
a very large number of dailypapers,
and supports at present the folloiv-
ing:
Daily Express Conservative and

Church of Ireland.
Irish Times Unionist.
freeman's Journal Nationalist,

with Evening Telegraph.
Daily Independent Nationalist.

with Evening Herald
Evening Mail Conservative.
Weekly Editions of the Irish
Times, Independent, and Free-
man's Journal appear ; and
among other weekly journals
may be mentioned United Ire-
land and Sport.

There are numberless Weekly
Papers connected with various
Trades notably many excel-
lent Cycling and Athletic
Papers.

Nicholas Within, Church
Of S. (Map A.) The church
of S. Nicholas \Vithin stands in

235

S. Nicholas-street not far from
Christchurch-place ; although the
last church only dated from 1807.
it is a ruin. Its churchyard used
to extend to Christchurch-place
(formerly Skinner' s-row) but that
part of it was given to the Cor-
poration as a site for theTHOLSEL.

Nicholas Without and
Luke, Church of, SS.
(Map A.). S. Nicholas Without
was in N. Transept of S. Patrick's
Cathedral from as early as 1302; be-
coming ruinous, from 1784 to 1825
money was being raised and
efforts made to restore the Tran-
sept for a parish church. The
present church was formerly S.
Luke's. It is a plain structure
measuring 70 x 30 and was built
soon after an Act of Parliament of
1708. It is approached from the
Coombe by an avenue of elms.

Observatory. DUNSINK.

O'Connell Bridge.

O'Connell Monument
(Map C.) This superb Monu-
ment stands at the lower end of
Sackville-street, facing O'Connell
Bridge. It was designed by

O'CONNELL MONUMENT.

Foley and after his death was
finished by Brock. The first
stone was laid in 1864, and the
Monument was unveiled August
1 5th, 1882.

It consists of a bronze statue
of O'Connell (clothed in his cloak)
twelve feet high, standing on a
limestone pedestal twenty-eight
feet high. Round the drum is a
noble group of nearly fifty figures
cast in various degrees of relief.
In front is a heroic figure of
Hibernia trampling her broken
fetters under foot, and with one
hand holding the Act of Eman-
cipation, and with the other
pointing up to the Liberator.
The rest of the figures are repre-
sented as listening earnestly to
what Hibernia tells them of her
deliverer. The four large winged
figures at the corners of the base
represent O'Connell's chief vir-
tues : Patriotism, Fidelity, Elo-
quence, and Courage.
Orphanages. There are a
good many orphanages in Dublin.
Miss Barrett's Guide to Dublin
Charities (1884) gives the
number of orphans as rather
over 2,000. The FEMALE
ORPHAN HOUSE, ROYAL
HIBERNIAN MILITARY
SCHOOL, DRUMMOND IN-
STITUTION, MASONIC
SCHOOLS and S. VINCENT
DE PAUL MALE ORPHAN-
AGE are dealt with separ-
ately. The Female
Orphanage, George's-hill,
is the oldest in Dublin, it
was established in 1771,
the Penal laws being
evaded by teaching glove-
making, &c. The Hiber-
nian Marine Society's
School founded 1766; their
house on Sir John Roger-
son's Quay is the subject of
one of Malton's Plates ;

when it was burned the school
was moved to I Upper Merrion-
street. S. Vincent's Female
Orphanage, North William-street,
contains 180 orphans, and S.
Joseph's Female Orphanage,
Mountjoy-street, 100.

Ovoca. RATHDRUM.

Oxmantown. The north-
west district of Dublin, so called
as it was appropriated to the
Danes or Ostmen (Eastmen) who,
from prudential motives, were not
allowed to

sleep in the
city, then al-
together on
the south side
of the river.
It is said that
the beams
forming the
roof of West-
minster Hall
grew here be-
fore the. forest
was cleared,
and Ostman-
town - green
formed. Little
John the asso-
ciate of Robin
Hood showed
feats of shoot-
ing on this
green, and
some histo-
rians say he
Arbour-hill

DUNSHAUQHLIN CASTLE.

was hanged on
close by. S.
MICHAN'S CHURCH, named from
a Danish saint, was the first
church built at the north side of
the river. There is one curious
subterranean building, named
" Scaldbrother's Hole" from a
notorious thief who inhabited it,
.and another, the entrance to
which is from what is locally
known as " Bailey's Timber
Yard."
Pale. Dublin with the contiguous

parts of Kildare, Louth and
Meath was incorporated by King
John as the English Pale and the
included townlancls were divided
amongst the English who built a
number of castles, the plain square
keeps of many of which still re-
main. The following were "walled
and good towns " of the Pale :
Dublin, Swords, Balrothery,
Howth, Newcastle, Bray, Clon-
dalkin, Fieldstown and Tallaght.
Patrick, Knights of S.
This Order was
founded in 1783
during the Vice-
royalty of Lord
Temple. The
first investiture
took place on
the ilth March
of that year in
the great ball-
room of Dublin
Castle, which
thenceforth by
Royal command
bore the name
of S. Patrick's
Hall: the instal-
lation in S.
Patrick's Cathe-
dral followed on
S. Patrick's Day,
and each knight
was admonished
amongst other

things " to fight for the just
and necessary defence of them
that be oppressed and needy."
Since the disestablishment of the
Irish Church, installation in S.
Patrick's Cathedral has ceased,
but the banners of the knights
last installed there before 1869
still hang in the chancel. The
statutes of ihe Order should
be curious reading, for they
are described by a good autho-
rity as "a farrago of non-
sense."

237

S. PAUL S CATHOLIC CHURCH

Paul, Catholic Church of

S. (MapC.) Arran-quay. A fine
church built in 1835 on the site of
the small chapel of 1785. The
facade is built of granite and con-
sists of a portico with three fine fig-
ures whose attitudes show action ;
behind rises a campanile in which
a peal of bells was hung, 1845.
Pavements. The soubriquet
" dirty " which used so frequently
to be applied to Dublin, was fairly
earned by its muddy streets ; be-
fore the present system of paving
was adopted, long detours had
often to be made to avoid wide
seas of mud which welled up
between the paving stones. For
some years the Corporation have
been spending large sums in re-
paving the streets, the stones
being laid on a layer of concrete ;
this has greatly improved the
streets, but though cleaner, they

are not pleasant to drive
over. Grafton-street,
Mclesworth - street, Kil-
dare-street, and some
fragments opposite places
of worship, are paved
with wood ; Henry- street
and Mary-street are paved
with Asphalt.

The sidewalks in
Dublin are, as a rule, un-
even and soon tire the
pedestrian ; they are laid
with squares of granite
which wear unevenly,
especially at the edges.
In a few places artificial
blocks have been laid,
and the squares and many
of the suburban pathways
are made of concrete.
Peter, Catholic
Church of S.
PHIBSBORO' CHURCH.
Peter, Church of s.
(Map A.) S. Peter's
Church, built within the
precincts of the Carmelite
Convent, Aungier-street, is the
parent parish church of all the
district lying to the east '.of the
old city, but increasing population
has led to new churches being
built, and since the disestab-
lishment of the Irish Church most
of these have had parishes assigned
to them. The present church
opened in 1867, is from the
design of E.H.Carson, F.R.I.A.L
portions of the former church
being utilised. It is buili. of
granite in Early English Gothic,
and has a nave 86X40, two tran-
septs and a chancel. The transepts
are separated from the nave by
arches with circular perforations
in the spancirils. Th.: chancel
measures 18x15, and iis arch is
supported by columns of Green
Galway Marble. The tower stands-
between the chancel and north

238

transept its spire isunfinished. A
tombstone bears the inscription :
" Benjamin Disneli, ob. 1814."
Phibsboro' Church. The
Church of S. Peter, Phibsboro',
stands on high ground in the
angle formed by the North
Circular and Cabra roads. A
chapel was built here early in this
century in " Milner's second order
of Gothic Architecture" a fearful
and a wonderful " style." A
picture is given of it by Petrie

S. PETERS CATHOLIC CHURCH.

1831. Afterwards it was rebuilt
in what was looked upon as early
pointed Gothic ; the tower and
nave still remain, and the general
effect is good, but the details
poor. Again rebuilding was
commenced, and a new east end
and central tower, with ceiling
130 feet high, arose; the re-
building had reached this point in
1868, when there was a lawsuit
about the strength of the tower,
the trial lasted 34 days, and
ended in the jury disagreeing.

The work was then suspended,
and some time afterwards the
upper part of the tower was
removed.

The new work was designed by
Mr. Goldie and is very beautiful.
It consists of transepts no feet
across, and 80 feet high, a choir
consisting of a short polygonal
apse of seven bays, with a series
of seven radiating chapels. At
the end of each transept is a fine
rose window and a carved niche.
The stained glass is by
Lobin of Tours. This
new portion is some of
the finest Gothic work
in Dublin, it is a great
pity that the magnifi-
cent design remains un-
finished.

Phoenix Park (Map
D). This spacious and
beautiful park, open at
all times to the citizens,
lies to the west of the
city on the north bank
of the Liffey, it is seven
miles in circumference,
contains 1760 acres, of
which 1,360 are open,
and has seven entrances
with gates and lodges.
The name is derived
from the manor house
of Fion-uiske (clear
water), possibly called
from the neighbouring spa which
stood on the hill now occupied
by the Magazine Fort ; Lord
Chesterfield perpetuated the an-
glicised form by erecting the
Phoenix Column.

About 1 662 Charles II. formed a
deer park, partly out of the lands
of Kilmainham which had been
surrendered to the Crown on the
suppression of the Order of S.
John of Jerusalem, and partly by
the purchase of neighbouring
townlands. In 1751, the Right

239

Hon. Nathaniel Clemens, father
of Lord Leitrim, built a lodge for
his own use, which in 1784 was

afternoon with the aid cf an outside
car. In the following route the
chief points of interest are noted.

bought by the Government for the
use of the Lord Lieutenant. The
park can easily be explored in an

Hcnu to see the Park. Entering by
the North Circular-road Gate, the
Constabulary Barracks are seen to

240

the right ; dis-
mount and en-
ter the People's
Gardens to the
left, crossing
the valley be-
tween the two
lakes ; on the
plateau beyond
is the statue of
Lord Carlisle,
1873, and there
is a good view
of the ROY A I.

I NFIRMARV.

TheWELMNG-
TON TESTI-
MONIAL (the
"big mile-
stone " as it
is disdainfully
called) can

PEOPLE S GARDEN;

LORD GOUGH.

next be examined, and
the car rejoined at Foley s
beautiful equestrian
statue of Lord Gough,
erected in 1880. Then
drive along the road
over the river leaving
the cricket grounds on
the right. Passing the
Kilmainham Gate a steep
hill is ascended at the
Magazine Fort (formerly
called Wharton's Folly
from the Lord Lieutenant
who built it) at the right.
This magazine called
forth one of Swift's latest
epigrams :

" Behold a proof of Irish

sense,

Here Irish wit is seen,
When nothing's left that's

worth defence,
We build a magazine."

Further on theChapel-
izod Gate is passed with
the HIBERNIAN SCHOOL

241

CHIEF SECRETARY'S LODGE.

on the hill to the right, then
the road becomes prettier, and
the view of the river more
exquisite. The furze glen with
its quiet lake is the wildest part,
and soon afterwards the Knock-
maroon Gates are reached.
Leaving by one gate the road to
Lucan, Strawberry Beds, &c., is
seer, and a glimpse is obtained of
Lord Iveagh's house; re-enteiing
by the second gate the Mountjoy
barracks for the Ordnance Sur-
vey are passed to the left, and the
centre road is reached.
Drive along the
centre road to the
Phcenix Column, erec-
ted by Lord Chester-
field, L.L., in 1745.
It is 30 feet high, and
consists of a Corinthian
column crowned by a
Phcenix on a flaming
pile. On one side of
the pedestal is carved :

Civium oblectamente,
Campum rudtm et incultum

Ornari jussit
Philippus Stanhope, Comes

De Chesterfield, Prorex.
"On the other side is :

Impensis suis posuit

Philippus Stanhope, Comes

De Chesterfield, Prorex

At the right is
the Chief Secre-
tary's Lodge, and
at the left the
Undersecretary's
Lodge. Continu-
ing the centre
road the portico
of the VICE-
REGAL LODGE is
seen between two
rows of shrubs ;
on this spot Lord
Frederick Caven-
dish and Mr.
Burke were mur-
dered by the
" Invincibles "in 1882. To the
right beyond a belt of trees is the
Fifteen Acres (why "Fifteen"
it is hard to say, as the open space
is of great extent) where formerly
duels were decided, now used as a
review ground and always sur-
rounded by crowds of citizens on
the Queen's Birthday. Passing
the Vice-regal Lodge the old Elm
avenue is seen, and beyond it the
Nine Acres and Polo ground, a
road leading round the Zoologi-
cal Gardens and past the old

EXTRAXCE TO THE ZOO-

242

Chalybeate spring. The ZOO-
LOGICAL GARDENS are now
passed and the Gough statue is
regained. The park can be left
by Parkgate-street.

Physicians COLLEGE OF
PHYSICIANS.

Pigeon House Fort. The
Pigeon House is situated on the
South Wall about I miles below
Ringsend ; it was bought by the
Government for a barrack in 1814,
and at one time was considered
" a place of great strength sur-
rounded with heavy cannon and
commanding the bay in various
directions. " The old timber mole
was replaced by a stone one to
this point in 1755, and a small
harbour was built to afford shelter
to the packets " which were ex-
posed to the swell in the Channel
in easterly winds," but from the
first it was nearly dry at low
water. A hotel for the convenience
of travellers and a Custom House
were built beside the harbour.

Up to 1818 the English Mails
were despatched daily (except
Sundays) from the Post Office,
College Green. A long coach
holding 40 passengers conveyed
them to the Pigeon House har-
bour, from which, when the tide
served, the packets sailed. The
average passage to Holyhead was
twelve hours. At that time some
of the Irish mail coaches were
built of sheet copper or iron as in
the various insurrections metal
plates were found useful in
turning off musket balls ! When
Howth Harbour was finished the
packets were transferred to it.

The Pigeon House is now used
as barracks, targets for rifle practice
being put up on the South Bull.
Those v/ishing to walk to the end
of the South Wall have to pass
through the fort. The Govern-
ment are now considering the

advisability of handing the Pigeon
House over to the Corporation.
Pleasants' Asylum (Map A.)

in Camden-street was opened in
1818. T. Pleasants having be-
queathed ^15,000 for establish-
ing a female orphan house for
daughters of respectable house-
holders. The inmates are well
cared and highly instructed.

Pleasants, Thomas, was a
merchant of Dublin (ob. 1816)
who gave large sums in practical
charity. The Tenter House was
erectedin 1815 at a costofi2,964;
before this the poor weavers of the
Coombe had either to suspend
work in rainy weather or use the
alehouse fire and thus were (as
Wright expresses it) "exposed to
great distress, and not unfrequently
reduced either to the hospital or
the gaol." The Tenter House is
a brick building in Cork-street,
275 feet long, 3 stories high and
with a centre cupola, the building
has long since passed to other uses
owing to the failure of hand
weaving in the city but at the time
it fulfilled its design, the 30,000
people depending on weaving
using it gladly and "in 1816 no
one woollen weaver was found im-
ploring relief, or within the walls of
a prison." Mr. Pleasants gave
/6,ooo to the MEATH HOSPITAL,
.500 to build the entrace to the
BOTANIC GARDENS, Glasnevin
and endowed PLEASANTS' ASY-
LUM in Camden-street. There is
a monument to his memory in
S. BRIDE'S CHURCH.

Police. The Dublin Metropolitan
police number 1,148 with officers,
and have long been a subject of
legitimate pride to the city. For
superb physique no finer body of
men can be produced in the King,
dom. It is enough to say that
they are no unworthy companions
to the world - famous Royal

243

Irish Constabulary. The Police
Band has always maintained a
high standard of efficiency. The
head quarters are in Dublin
Castle.

Police Courts, The (Map C.)
are situated behind the FOUR
COURTS. The building is com-
modious and well suited to its
purpose, but it is not
likely to interest the
visitor.

Police Magis-
trates. There are
attached to the Courts
four Police Magistrates,
of whom one sits at
Kingstown to take in
the S. district of the
County.

Poolbeg Light-
house built in
1764-8, stands at the
end of the great South
Mole which extends
from RINGSEND fully
3 miles into the sea.
To those who delight
in sea air and fine
mountain views there
can be no more glorious
walk, or bicycle run,
than that from Rings-
end to Poolbeg. The
superb Bay of Dublin
has been often com-
pared in beauty to the
Bay of Naples ; and by
this walk we can reach almost
the centre of it. The coast
from the city as far as Bray is
studded with towns and villas,
while in the background rise
the Dublin mountains. On the
other side the bold promontory

A MEMBER OP
THE D.M.P.

first time in early morning dotted
here and there with the white
canvas of yachts or the tawny sails
of fishing smacks will readily
understand the intense enthusiasm
with which all Irishmen regard
their " matchless wonder of a bay."
In 1880 a condensing dioptric
apparatus took the place of the
old silver reflectors.
There is also a siren,
sounded by compressed
air, which is worked
by gas made on the
spot and can be called
into action in two
minutes. The base of
the lighthouse is pro-
tected by large con-
crete blocks. The
walk to the lighthouse
by Ringsend and the
Pigeon House is a
pleasant one. There
are four other light-
houses on the river.
Poplin is the one
speciality for which,
if we except porter,
Dublin has obtained a
world-wide fame. The
manufacture was intro-
duced by the Huguenot
refugees in 1693, and
is still flourishing, al-
though its popularity
has declined as an
article of ladies' wear.

The material is composed of silk
and worsted, the appearance being
extremely rich. It is said that
the excellence of the water used
in dying the worsted here renders
the colours superior to those pro-
duced elsewhere.

of HOWTH rises grandly from the PortObellO (Map A.), i miles
ocean ; while directly across the from the G.P.O., was in the olden
river mouth are CLONTARF and time, while yet the CANAL-boat
Dollymount. The Bay is seven was the chief method of travelling,
miles across, the visitor, whose quite an important station and a
good fortune it is to see it for the fine hotel were erected at the

244

Canal Basin. Portobello Bridge
connects the city with RATHMIXES
and there is a large Military
Barrack on the Canal Bank on the
Rathmines side. The once cele-
brated gardens of Portobello, in
which many a sensational ex-
hibition was given, have entirely
disappeared in the astonishing ex-
tension of the suburbs. Little
more than 5 years ago hardly a
house was to be seen beyond the
canal, but now many a village
originally far beyond the bounda-
ries of the city has become part
and parcel of Dublin ( RATH-
MINES).

VIEW ON THE LIFFET.

Port of Dublin. Dublin is
situated at the head of a bay six
miles long and five and a-half
miles wide, and its modern history
as a port may be said to date from
1707, when the port was vested
in the Corporation. At that time
the Liffey and the Dodder flowed
across the sands at low water
dividing them into the North and
South Bulls. The first work
undertaken was the great South

Wall, which reaches some three
miles into the sea ; this straight-
ened the channel, protected it
from south winds and kept the
South Bull from encroaching.
This wall was first built of wood,
but was gradually replaced by
stone. This South Wall being
broken in several places owing to
the piles decaying, the Irish
Parliament incorporated a special
body, named the Corporation for
Preserving and Improving the
Port of Dublin, and the care of
the port was transferred to it.
This body was familiarly known
as the BALLAST OFFICE or Board,
a name
which still
attaches to
the Port
and Docks
Board.

Soon af-
ter 1819,
the North
Bull Wall
was built
from Clon-
tar f to
within
1,000 feet
of Poolbeg
lighthouse;
half of this
wall was
sub merged
when the
tide was in r

this enabled the water to escape
freely at the first half of the ebb,
the remainder being confined,
rushed out with great force and
by its scour has deepened the
water over the bar at low water
of spring tide, from 6 to 16 feet.
Since 1860 great improvements
have been made in the river, from
1865 to 1 868 more than 15,000,000
tons were dredged out ; the North
Wall has been extended and the

Alexandra Basin
formed, and much of
the QUAY walls have
been rebuilt with deep
foundations, so as to
allow large vessels to
come alongside. The
North Wall extension
was built by blocks of
concrete 360 tons
weight; these were
built at a distance and
carried by an immense
floating sheares and
lowered on ground
which had first been
dredged out, and then
prepared by men work-
ing in a diving-bell.
The moving of the
blocks and the diving-
bell (which could be
entered by a shaft from
above) were for many
years objects of more
than local interest.

In 1878 the income
of the port reached its
maximum, the regis-
tered tonnage being
2,026,185, and the in-
come from rates and
dues ^62,417 gs. lod. Since that
there has been a decline in re-
ceipts, which is due to the law of
measurement having received a
new construction in 1879. The
result to Dublin has been disas-
trous, as needed improvements
cannot be carried out, and much
of the dredging plant is unused.

Ahundredyearsagoihe entrance
to the harbour was so difficult that
a ship canal was projected, the
starting point to be either Dun-
leary (Kingstown) or Sutton. At
present large steamers can enter
the port at all tides ; indeed
Dublin is the only harbour in
-which ihe Great Eastern was ever
moored to a wall (1888-9).

POWERSCOURT WATERFALL.

Post Office GENERAL POST
OFFICE.

Poulaphuca BLESSINGTOX.

Powerscourt, with its famous
waterfall, is best approached from
ENNISKERRY, where admission
tickets must be procured. Of the
entrances into the beautiful de-
mesne of Lord Powerscourt. the
visitor will probably take the
Great Gate, which is less than
half a mile from Enniskerry up a
very steep hill. From the gate
to the Falls, a distance of three
miles, is one continual succession
of delightful views of river, moun-
tain and woodland scenery. The
Fall itself is caused by the Dargle
river leaping over a lofty cliff, and

246

in rainy weather it has a very fine
effect ; it is apt, however, to be
disappointing in fine seasons,
and the story goes that on one
occasion when George IV. was
expected to visit the place, a large
reservoir was constructed on the
summit of the cliff to secure nn
imposing cataract. Alas, the
King did not come, and the
artifice was not required. In any
case, the visitor will find in the
demesne itself a surfeit of beauty,
and the base of the cliff over
which the river tumbles is a
favourite place for picnic parties
from Bray or Dublin. The fare
for a car from Bray is about ten
shillings there and back ; but a
bargain must always be made
beforehand.

Powerscourt House (Map
B.) William-street 1771-3, de-
signed by Robert Mack, cost
;lo,ooo. There is a fine fi^ade
which, however, can hardly be
seen from the narrowness of the
street. There is a fine flight of
steps, and the internal staircase is
made of mahogany. This was
taken as a
Stamp Office
in 1811. It is
now occupied
by Messrs,
ferrier and
Pollock.

Presbyte-
rian Church.

Presbyterian
Church in
Ireland. The
Presbyterians
came to Ulster
from Scotland
in the reign of
James I., and
in 1642 the
first Presby-
tery was form-
ed. There

are six Congregations in Dublin r
and others in the suburbs. Their
finest place of worship is RUT-
LAND - SQUARE CHURCH. Or-
mond-quay Church has a limestone
front with side towers of poor
perpendicular Gothic design ; it
was built in 1865. The Church
in Adelaide-road has a high rusti-
cated basement from which the
pillars of the portico rise. Donore
Church is a small but well-de-
signed building of red sandstone
and granite, in decorated Gothic..
United Presbyterian CInirch. A
Congregation meets in Lower
Abbey-street ; it is the lineal
descendant of a congregation;
with which King William III.
worshipped in Moss-lane ; they
afterwards moved to the site of
the old Bank of Ireland in Mary's
Abbey, and in 1826 moved to
Lower Abbey-street, their church
in Mary's Abbey becoming a
Synagogue.

Pro-Cat hed ral CATHEDRAL.
OF S. MARY.

Prospect C e m e t e r y
CEMETERY.

THE QUAYS LOW DOWN.

247

Provost's House TRINITY

COLLEGE.

Quays. The river Liffey is
bounded on both sides by con-
tinuous embankments or quays,
which ex tend from themouthof the
river to Kingsbridge. That on the
south side is separated merely by
the mouth of the Dodder from the
South Wall, which extends into
the bay for some three miles.
These quays were mostly built in
the first quarter of the present
century by the BALLAST OFFICE

docks. Passenger steamers start
from the north quays.
Queen's-square (Map B.)
A small square opening off Great
Brunswick-street. It was erected
'839-50 and well planted, indeed
a guide book of the latter date
says " We have no hesitation in
saying that in Ireland or England
there is nothing to equal it." For
years it was used for shooting
rubbish, but some years ago the
Corporation laid it out once more,
and opened it as a public garden.

THE QUAYS HIGH UP.

Corporation at present termed
the Port and Docks Board when
also many of the bridges were
rebuilt. The most ornamental
portion is Inn's-quay, opposite
the FOUR COURTS, where the
parapet is replaced by a balustrade
continuous with that of the flank-
ing bridges. From the CUSTOM
HOUSE down the parapet is dis-
continued and the quays are
devoted to shipping. At the south
side coal, guano, &c., are dis-
charged ; wood, corn, &c., being
discharged at the north quays and

Queen's-square is greatly given up
to theatrical lodgings.

Rath, which appears as a prefix
in so many of our Dublin suburbs,
means originally a circular en-
closure or "dun," as it is also
called, wh'ch surrounded the
house of the chieftain in ancient
cities. The earthern rampart was
possibly surmounted by strong
palisades.

Rat hd rum (37 miles on the
D. W. & W. R.) is a very good
centre for visiting the more distant
parts of the County Wicklow : it

248

has a good hotel. GLENDALOUGH
is seven miles away, and Glen-
malure is the same distance ; the
latter is a fine pass under Lugna-
quilla (3,039 ft.) a mountain well
worth climbing. Passing through
the Vale of Avonmore the Vale
of Avoca is entered under Castle
Howard, and over the real "Meet-
ing of the Waters." From the
village of Avoca toWoodenbridge
station at the other end of the
Vale, is a beautiful drive of six
miles, it can be seen well both by
road and rail.

Rathfarnham, a southern
suburb and village, four miles from
the G. P. O., is interesting chiefly
from the fine castle built by
Archbishop Loftus in the reign of
Elizabeth. The Church of Ire-
land College of St. Columba
(EDUCATION) is in this district.

Rathgar, a township united to
RATHMINES, one of the most
popular residential suburbs.

Rathmines, themost important
suburb of the city, lies due south
across the canal, past PORTOBELLO.
On the right as one enters the
township, over La Touche's
Bridge, lie the Portobello Artillery
Barracks, which have lately been
increased in size. The Commis-
sioners constructed, in 1880, superb
water works at Glen-na-Smoil
Valley, and during the severe
drought of 1893 had reason to
congratulate themselves on their
foresight in refusing to have their
township served by the VARTRY
supply. Tramcars ply from
NELSON'S Pillar to Terenure.

Rathmines Catholic
Church. The Church of S.
Mary of Refuge, Rathmines-road,
is a fine structure of Renaissance
design, from the plans of P. Byrne,
R.H.A. ; it was completed in 1883.
It is cruciform in plan, and has a
large copper dome ; the portico

is a magnificent piece of work,
the four Corinthian pillars being
of vast but harmonious pro portions.
Over the apex of the pediment is
a fine statue of the Virgin and
Child, and there are other statues at
thesidesandon the entablature are
the words MARINE PECCATORUM
REFUGIO. The appearance of
the fa9ade was somewhat injured
by a ' right of way " which pre-
vented the side doors being put in,
but this difficulty was overcome
in 1894.

Records. The Public Records
of Ireland are, by an Act of Par-
liament of 1867, placed under the
charge and superintendence of the
Master of the Rolls. They are
preserved in the State Paper
Office and in the Public Record
Office ; the former is situated in
the Birmingham Tower, Dublin
Castle, the latter in a building
which forms part of the precincts
of the Four Courts, these two
offices are now under the super-
vision of one officer who is styled
Deputy Keeper of the Records
and Keeper of the State Papers,
and who acts under the direction
of the Master of the Rolls. The
Public Record Office of Ireland
resembles the similar Department
in England, it has, however, one
specially distinct feature : all wills,
as soon as they have attained the
age of twenty years from date of
proof, are preserved there,
whereas in England these most
important records remain in the
Probate Registry at Somerset
House. The State Paper Office
was in 1715 under the charge of
the celebrated Addison. The
Public Record Office was founded
in 1868, and the first Deputy
Keeper was the late Sir Samue
Ferguson.

Reformatory Schools.
There are two Reformatory Schools

249

in Dublin Cork-street (P.) and
High Park, Drumcondra (R.C.)
The former has an average of 1 1 ,
and the latter 46 inmates. GLEN-
CREE is the most important
reformatory close to Dublin
250 inmates.

Registrar-General CHAR-

LEMONT HOUSE.

Ringsend is a village at the
confluence of the Dodder with the
Liffey. It was at one time a
pretty suburb, and so long as the
Pigeon House
harbour was
used for the
packet boats,
Ringsend was
prosperous.
Tjh ere are
good docks,
but rarely
used, and
Ringsend at
present de-
rives the small
importance it
possesses from
its being the
head -quarters
of the Dublin
fishing fleet,
and also of
all the ROW-
ING CLUBS.

There are glass works and vitriol
works in the village. The sea-
wall, stretching 3 milesintothesea
from Ringsend to Poolbeg Light-
house, ranks among the noblest
moles in the Kingdom. The
Pembroke TECHNICAL SCHOOLS
were built 1893. (MATHF.W,
CHURCH of S.)

Rockabill, a lighthouse on a
toweringrock about fivemiles from
the coast opposite to SKERRIES.

Rotunda Hospital. The
Rotunda Hospital and Buildings

form a handsome group at the
south side of Rutland-square and
the north end of Sackville-street ;
the Hospital faces Great Britain-
street and the buildings have
entrances in Cavendish-row.

The Rotunda Hospital was the
first Lying-in hospital built, and
still deservedly holds a high place
among its fellows. It owes its
existence to the foresight, liberality,
and perseverance of Dr. Bartholo-
mew Mosse, who, struck by the
misery of poor women when most
they needed help, opened in 1745,

ROTUNDA HOSPITAL.

a house (which still exists)
in George's lane now, South
George' s-street. In 1748 the
success of the work led to a larger
house being required, and Dr.
Mosse bought the Barley Fields
(the present Rutland-square) and
in 1757 the first stone of the
Hospital was laid. Dr. Mosse
not only collected money and
started lotteries and spent all his
private means on the grounds and
building, but in 1755 petitioned
the Parliament for assistance

250

which was granted in two sums of
;6,ooo; he died in poverty in
1759, aged 47.

The Hospital is built of granite
and measures 125 ft. x 80 ft. ; it is
three stories in height, with Doric
columns and pediment in the
centre. Above rises a tower
ending in an open gallery and
graceful dome. It was designed
by Cassels. The pavilions were
added by F. Trench ; one is un-
altered and is an entrance to the
Rotunda Buildings, the other has
an added story and is used as a
porch for the Hospital.

The "Auxiliary Hospital,"
at the S.W. corner of the square,
was built by Lord Kingsland for
a town house, but he never lived
in it owing to the neighbouring
site being selected for an hospital.
For some years it was occupied
by the Richmond Blind Institu-
tion, and in 1815 was taken over
for hospital purposes.

The New Auxiliary, of red
brick and yellow terra-cotta, was
built from the designs of Albert
Murray, 1895.

The Chapel, over the entrance
hall, is the finest example of stucco-
work in Dublin, the ceiling con-
taining figures of more than life
size in alto relievo. The stucco
was designed by Cremillon and
executed by the brothers Francini.
The seats are of mahogany, and
there is a curious font presented
by the Bishop of Raphoe, in 1765.

The Rotunda Gardens ( RUT-
LAND-SQUARE) were laid out as
places of public entertainment, the
profits going to the Hospital.
The present Tennis ground
is the old Bowling green. The
Rotunda Rooms were added from
time to time with the same object.
The Round Room (Sofeet in diam-
eter) was designed by Ensor and
erected, with two tea-rooms, in

1764-5. The balcony inside was
added in 1860. The room is
beautifully proportioned and has
been the scene of many great
political meetings. F. Johnston
designed (1784) the portico facing
Cavendish-row, the Pillar Room
(the best dancing room in the
city), the Large Concert Hall, and
the smaller concert halls. He
decorated the outside of the
Round Room with the magnificent
Wedgwood frieze of Ox skulls
(cf. page 34). These rooms were
occupied by troops in 1798, and
in the present century they have
never been the assistance to the
charity that they were at firs^t
The average profits from the
rooms in 1795-7, was ; l 45^'
whilst from 1815-7 it was only
300. Lately, for some years,
the rooms were little used, but
their prosperity seems once more
to be reviving.

In !785theHospital wasgranted
a duty of i 155. 6d. on each
private sedan chair, of which there
were 260 in Dublin. The Hospital
contains 95 beds. From its founda-
tion to 1892, 231,732 women
were confined in it.
Round Towers. The fol-
lowing Round Towers can be
easily reached from Dublin :

p, Height Distance

ace ' (infect), (in miles).

Clondalkin, 85 5

Glendalough, no 32

Kells. 99 30

Kildare, 1 10 30

Lusk, 1 10 14

Monasterboice, no 37
Rathmichael, The Stump, 9

Swords, 73 8

RO wi rig. All the Rowing Clubs
of Dublin are situated on the
Dodder at RINGSEND. The
leading clubs are the Dublin
University Rowing Club, Dublin

251

University Boat Club, the Pem-
broke, the Commercial and the
Dolphin. The annual Regatta is
held in July beside the sea-wall
which extends from Ringsend to
the PIGEON HOUSE. The course
is from the Pigeon House to the
mouth of the Dodder.
Royal Dublin Society,
the, (Map B.) was founded in
1731 and incorporated in 1749
to promote Husbandry and
oth>r useful arts in Ireland. It
therefore takes rank as the very
oldest society of its kind in the
Kingdom. After many migrations,
it now occupies apart of LEINSTER
HOUSE (bought in 1815 for
; 25,000), which it shares with the

BALL'S BRIDGE PREMISES.

Science and Art Department,
There were in 1821 about 500
members and considerable grants-
from Parliament were required to
enable the Society to carry on its
excellent work. There are now
9,000 members elected by ballot
and the society administers an
annual income of ^25,000.

The promotion of Science and
Industry is beset with difficulties
in Ireland, but at no period of its
existence has the good influence
of this Society been more widely
extended ormorelargely beneficial
than at present. The visitor who
is so fortunate as to be in Dublin
during one of the larger Cattle
Shows or Horse Shows, given by
the Society at BALL'S
BRIDGE, cannot but
be struck with the
excellent results of
the Society's labours.
To encourage a
knowledge of Botany,
the Botanical Gardens
were laid out in 1793
at GLASNEVIN ; and
in 1 88 1 very extensive
grounds -were opened
at BALL'S BRIDGE,
as the space in the
front of Leinster
House was too small
to admit of such ex-
hibitions as the
Society can get to-
gether. The build-
ings at Ball's Bridge
are the finest in the
Kingdom for the pur-
pose to which they
are applied, and three
or four times a year
they are thronged
with visitors from all
parts of the world.
The greatest Horse
Show takes place in
August, and attracts

252

so many strangers to the Irish
capital, that during the " Horse
Show Week " it is almost im-
possible to secure accommodation
in town. The Society carries on
also a scientific work of high im-
portance, and many most valuable
contributions to modern know-
ledge are to be found among
its publication. Lectures are
constantly given in the Theatre;
and within late years a very
sensible new departure has been
made in providing popular
Scientific Lectures for the young
by some of our leading authorities.
The Musical Recitals of the
Society have long been famous.

The MUSEUM, together with the
Schools of Design have been
taken over from the Royal Dublin
Society by the SCIENCE AND ART
DEPARTMENT and the NATIONAL
LIBRARY OF IRELAND, which
before the completion of the new
building was very poorly housed in
LEINSTER HOUSE, has now been
transferred to the superb building
erected for it.

Royal Hospital. (Map D.)
The Royal Hospital, KIL-
MAINHAM is one of the most
interesting buildings near Dublin ;
it was built from the design of
Sir Christopher Wren. 1680-4, at
a cost of .26,000 " for the re-
ception and entertainment of
antient, maimed and infirm officers
and soldiers." The Hospital stands
in pretty grounds and can be
reached most directly from
Kingsbridge and most pictu-
resquely from Kilmainham by the
Richmond Tower (erected on the
S. Quay, at the end of Barrack
Bridge from the designs of
F. Johnston, 1812, moved to
present site, 1846).

The Royal Hospital is built
in the form of a quadrangle 306
feet by 288 feet, and enclosing a

courtyard 210 feet square- The
principal front is to the north and
faces the Phoenix Park ; the Great
Hall is in the centre of this side,
the Chapel forms its east end and
the apartments of the Master
(the Commander of the Forces in
Ireland) its western part. The
entrance to the Great Hall projects
17^ feet x 66 feet, and is orna-
mented with Corinthian pilasters,
over the door are the arms of the
Duke of Ormond who did so
much to further the foundation of
the institution. The steeple (added
in 1701) rises over the entrance,
and consists of two stories (one
of which contains a clock) and in
octagonal spire. In the centre of
each of the other fronts is an
arched gateway. The courtyard
is laid out in grass plots and a
covered piazza extends round
three sides and part of the fourth ;
there is a sun-dial (1748) over the
north door.

The Great Hall is well worth
visiting ; it measures 100 ft. x 50
ft. and is lofty in proportion.
The upper part of the walls has
22 portraits of sovereigns and
Irish statesmen, and a number of
old flags ; the lower half is
wainscotted in oak and is de-
corated with a valuable collection
of armour and weapons, much of
which was sent to the Pigeon
House Fort from the Tower of
London in 1829 and transferred to
the Royal Hospital in 1891 at the
instance of Lord Wolseley,
Master. A fine fire-place, the
original charter of Charles II., a
curious collection of old books,
and glass cases of medals, which
belonged to former inmates, are
also to be seen. The chapel
(dedicated in 1886 to the memory
of King Charles I., Martyr) con-
tains a large window the tracery
of which belonged to the ancient

253

priory and the upper part of the is by Grindley Gibbons. The
glass is old, the lower part was beautiful stucco ceiling was cle-

ROYAL UNIVERSITY.

presented by the Queen after her signed by Cipriani. The number
visit in 1849. The oak carving of pensioners at preient is 140.

254

Royal Infirmary. (Map D.)
The Royal Infirmary (1786-8) is
built at the margin of the Phoenix
Park between the two principal
gates. It stands on the top of a
well-wooded hill and has a
handsome frontage consisting of
a centre, surmounted by a cupola,
and two returning wings.

Royal Irish Academy
ACADEMY, ROYAL IRISH.

Royal University, (Map A.)
in Earlsfort-terrace, was es
tablished in 1879, and occupies
the buildings of the old Dublin
Exhibition (1864-5) of which the
huge glass building was removed
to Battersea Park. New lecture-
rooms, &c. , have been erected at
the south side of the main front
and at the northern extremity a
lofty square CLOCK tower. The
Royal University is an ex-
amining body only, and with it
are incorporated the old Queen's
Colleges of Belfast, Cork and
Galway. The Degrees of the
Royal are open to female as well
as male students, and many of the
highest distinction have been won
by members of the gentler sex.
There are two very excellent
Halls, used occasionally for
concerts, by permission of the
Senate.

Royal Visits to Ireland have
not been frequent. Henry II.
came, 1172; John, 1210; Richard
II., 1394 and 1396 ; Henry V.,
1415. In 1821 George IV.
landed at Howth, and after
nearly a month's stay, embarked
at Dunleary (re-named KINGS-
TOWN) where his last footprint is
preserved under an obelisk ! Her
Majesty the Queen has visited
Ireland three times, in 1849, from
August 6th-ioth, in 1853, from
August to 29th September 3rd,
during which time she visited the
" Dargan" Exhibition on Leinster

Lawn, and in 1861, from August
22nd~3Oth, when the Royal party
visited Killarney.

Rush, a decayed fishing village
between SKERRIES and MALA-
HIDE, was at one time famous for
its fish-curing industry, the ling
of Rush being a particular
delicacy. The village is interesting
at present chiefly as giving the
nearest view from the mainland,
of LAMBAY Island.

Rutland Square (Map C.),
or the Rotunda Gardens, is situa-
ted at the north end of Sackville-
street. It was laid out in 1750 as
a place of amusement, the profits
to go to the building of the RO-
TUNDA HOSPITAL, which, with its
annexes, occupies its south side ;
the railings were put round it in
1 785. Part of the square is rented
for Hengler's Circus, and the
asphalt, now used for tennis,
marks the site of a skating rink.
At the north-east corner opposite
RUTLAND-SQUARE CHURCH, is a
a small house with a portico,
which was once a shelter for
sedan chair bearers, who had
their stand in front. The centre
of the north side of the square
is occupied by CHARLEMONT
HOUSE, a splendid building now
used as the Registrar-General's
Office. The other houses on the
north side, and some of those
on the east, are very fine, and
many of them were occupied by
the nobility in pre-Union days.
At one time concerts, illuminated
promenades, bands, and other
amusements, were held nightly
during the summer, the profits
going to the hospital. The north
side was named Palace-row, the
east side, Cavendish-row, and the
west side, Granby-row, the two
latter names are now applied to
limited parts. The square is not
open to the public.

255

Rutland Square Presby-
terian Church. The

Presbyterian Congregation of S.
Mary s Abbey was established
about 1667, soon after the passing
of the Act of Uniformity in the
reign of Charles II., and their
place of worship built on the ruins
of part of the old Abbey, now
merged in
B o 1 a n d ' s
Bakery, was
entered by a
covered pas-
sage from
Capel street.
The old site
being found
inconveni-
ent, the pre-
sent church
was built
1862-4, at
the expense
of Alexan-
der Find-
later at the
north - east
corner of
RUTLAND-
SQUARE, on
the site of
the Earl of
Bective's
house. The
Church, de-
signed by
H e i t o n ,
Perth, is
built of Gra-
nite in late
decorated
Gothic style, and, although
hemmed in by houses, is one of
the most successful exteriors in
Dublin. It has a graceful spire
1 80 feet high, and the east side
is divided into three bays with
high gables and richly traceried
five-light windows. At the south
or Rutland-square end, are the

principal entrances, the large
window at this end is in com-
memoration of the building. In
the porch is a monument to the
Rev. Benjamin MacDowel, ob.
1824. The interior is very effec-
tive, although the unpierced wall
on the left somewhat spoils it.
The open roof is lofty, and over
the pulpit

RUTLAND SQUARE CHURCH..

ville (from the family name of
the Duke of Dorset; was applied
to the upper part in 1756. This
portion was widened (to the west)
and trees planted in the centre,
and a walk made named the
"Mall." New Sackville-street
(now Lower Sackville-street) was
opened by the WIDE STREET

257

COMMISSIONERS in 1796. Sack-
ville-street contains the GENERAL
POST OFFICE. NELSON'S PILLAR,
DROGHEDA HOUSE, and numer-
ous STATUES.

Sal lygap LOUGH BRAY.

Salmon Leap -LEIXLIP.

Sandy mount. 2$ miles from
G.P.O., is a fine stretch of sand
at low tide a glorious place for a
gallop. Cockles are found in great
abundance. The artillerymen from
the PIGEON HOUSE practise on
the seaward parts of the sand. As
a residential neighbourhood
Sandymount has gone down. Its
houses are small, and the district
lies too low.

Santry. A small village two
miles from Dublin, on what was
once the great Northern road,
was a model village once, but has
fallen into decay during the years
Srntry Hall has been vacant.
The church has some interesting
monuments, and had until lately
a typical double belfry built of
rubble ; a few years ago this was
broken off by a falling tree, and
has been replaced by a single
belfry of cut limestone a Vandal
action. Santry Hall is a superb
large square building in Jacobean
style : marble sculptures, monu-
ments to favourite horses and
dogs, and a large artificial lake
testify, as does the luxuriant
planting, to the former magnifi-
cence of this place.

Saviour, Chapel of S.
(Map C.) The Chapel of the
Dominican Order is built at the

top Of DOMINICK-STREET, with

approaches from Rutland-square
and Dorset-street. It is a lofty
building, in early decorated Go-
thic, designed by J. J. McCarthy.
The west facade is beautifully
carved, with figures over the
doors, a large window, and
heavy carved pinnacles. Inside,

the central aisle has graceful
pillars, large clerestory windows,
and painted wooden roof. The
lowness and narrowness of the side
aisles, and the height of the nave
roof, give an appearance of height,
length, and narrowness. At the
east end the High Altar, beauti-
fully carved, stands in the centre
of an apse, the windows of which
are filled with coloured glass. At
present the interior is injured by
the stones having been covered
with colour wash, but this has been
removed from the lower parts, and
eventually all is to be scraped.
From the east end the view is
equally beautiful, being closed by
the organ, which stands over the
western door on a stone gallery,
and the beautiful window. Side
chapels were added to the north
aisle in 1895. The altar of the
Sacred Name (1891), at the east end
of the south aisle, is an exquisite

5iece of work, ornamented with a
elicate fret of white on a back-
ground of coloured marble. The
upper figure of Christ was brought
from Italy, but the beautiful group
of the "Dead Christ," in alto
relievo under the altar, was carved
by Hogan (1857), and is a master-
piece. There is a memorial win-
dow in the south aisle erected by
Earl Spencer in memory of
T. H. Burke, Under-Secretary,
assassinated in the Phoenix Park,
1882.

Saviour, Priory of S,
(Map C.) The Priory of S.
Saviour is at the north side of
the chapel, and runs along Dorset-
street. It was designed byj. L.
Robinson. The north, east, and
south sides are finished. It is
built of limestone, with richly
carved Caen stone dressings.
There are two stories above the
basement, but the important
rooms, such as the Chapter
S

258

House, Library, and Kitchen, fill
both stories. At the east side is
a beautiful cloister with wooden
roof, supported by short pillars
resting on stone corbels. At one
end is a marble lavatory, and be-
side it the entrance to the Refec-
tory, which contains a reader's
pulpit ; there are tables at three
sides, and the brethren sit out-
side them looking towards the
centre of the room. The Hospi-
tium is separated from the Refec-
tory by sliding doors, and when
required the two can be thrown
into one. The Chapter House, a
fine apartment, is at the north
side, as is the Library, which has
books round the walls and in pro-
jecting book cases, which separate
off quiet bays for readers ; it is lit
by a superb oriel window, sepa-
rated from the rest of the room by
a Gothic arch. The private
chapel, sacristy, &c., occupy the
south 'side. The Priory contains
many portraits and other paint-
ings. There is a fine picture of
Father Burke, whose eloquence
used to draw crowds to the neigh-
bouring church.
Scald brother's Hole

OXMANSTOWN.

Scalp, The. This very famous
pass lies on the border between
Dublin and Wicklow, one side
being in each county. It may
be reached most conveniently
from the little village of ENNIS-
KERRY, but a far better view is
obtained by driving from
Carrickmines past Golden
Ball and KILTERNAN, a very
beautiful road giving fine views
of the Two and Three Rock
Mountains. The Scalp itself is
a very singular chasm in the
mountain, in which huge masses
of granite are loosely piled on
either side. It is quite worth
while to climb the sides of the

pass as a glorious panorama is
thus disclosed to view ; but even
from the road below the picture
formed by the ravine with the
bold form of the great Sugar
Loaf Mountain closing the
vista is extremely beautiful. As
one advances the rocky side of
Carrickgollan, usually nicknamed
Katty Goligher, may lie seen on
the left, the chimney of the
Ballycorus Lead Works on its
summit making it easily recog-
nisable.

Schools. The leading schools
of Dublin are Alexandra College
and School (for ladies) in Earls-
fort-terrace, the High School of
Erasmus Smith in Harcourt-
street, and the Wesley College
in St. Stephen's-grecn. The
University College School in
Stephen's-green and the Catholic
University School in Lower Lee-
son-street are among the chief
schools for Catholic boys only. A
well equipped girls' school for
higher education of Catholic
ladies has been opened in Merrion-
square, and there are many ex-
cellent Convent Schools. S.
Andrew's College in Stephen's-
green is a Presbyterian School. In
the neighbourhood of Dublin are,
of Protestant non-sectarian schools,
St. Columba's College, RATH-
FAR NHAM ; Santry School,
Kingstown School, with many
smaller foundations ; while the
Catholics possess famous edu-
cational centres at CLONGOWES
WOOD, BLACKROCK, and else-
where. Dublin has a very large
number of private schools of good
reputation, both for girls and
boys ; but the great Public School
and the High School of the
English type have not arisen
among us.

Science COLLEGE OFSCIENCE
ROYAL,

259

Season. The Season in
Dublin is early so as not to allow
the London Season to interfere
with it. It commences in the
last week in January, when the
Viceregal party move into the
Castle and the first Levee is held,
and ends on St. Patrick's Day,
1 7th March. There are two
Levees and two Drawingrooms ;
the Levee is held in the middle
of the day, the Drawingroom in
the evening of the following day.
At Levees a band plays in the
Upper Castle Yard, and cavalry
ride round and round, keeping
carriages in an outer circle. The
route from the top of the stair-
case through the State Apartments
(CASTLE) is through S. Patrick's
Hall, the Supper Room, the
Throne Room (where the Lord
Lieutenant stands with his back
to the windows), the Ante Room,
and out again to the staircase.
At Drawingrooms the reverse
course is pursued, the order
being Long Corridor, Great
Drawingroom, Ante Room,
Throne Room (where the Lord
Lieutenant stands at the Throne
facing the windows), and through
the end of the Supper Room,
into S. Patrick's Hall. Ladies
(with their trains extended) have
to pass round three sides of the
Throne Room, gentlemen cross
merely the fourth side. When
all have passed through, the " Na-
tional Anthem " is played, and the
Lord Lieutenant and Household,
headed by Ulster King-at-Arms,
pass in procession through S.
Patrick's Hall. During the
Season there are generally two
State Balls, also Dances, Con-
certs, and Dinners. The Season
ends with great tfdat on S.
Patrick's Day. At noon there
is a grand imttary display in the
Upper Castle Yard, the colours

are trooped, national airs are
played, and the Viceregal party,
decorated with shamrocks, appear
over the portico. In the evening
S. Patrick's Ball is held. To it
all are invited who attended either
Levee or Drawingroom. Dancing
goes on in the Throne Room as
well as in St. Patrick's Hall, and
Sir Roger de Coverley is danced.
Simpson's Hospital (Msp
C). George Simpson, merchant,
living at^24 Jervis-street, suffered
from blindness and gout ; once
as he lay\in great pain unable to
reach the- hell or to make him-
self heard, 'the forlorn state of
those afflicted like himself but
without his means so struck him
that he longed to help them. He
consulted his wife, and she, nobly
encouraging his plans, he devised
his estate for the purpose of
founding an asylum for blind
and gouty men in reduced cir-
cumstances.

On his death in 1778 his
trustees bought Putland House
for ,3,600, but it was found in-
convenient, and in 1784 the
inmates were removed to Judge
Robinson's house in Jervis-street
(on the si*e of part of Jervis-
street Hospital), and Putland
House and that next it were taken
down and the present Hospital
built in 1787.

The Hospital face; Jervis-
street, and has a plain massive
granite frontage. There is a
large entrance hall contain-
ing some curious chairs, bought
in 1781, and two staircases. In
the boardroom is a fine mantel-
piece, which cost in 1787 ^140.
The reclining figure is ex-

3uisitely carved. There is a fine
ining hall at the rere and over it
an infirmary. The hospital con-
tains some celebrated Chippen-
dale chairs.

260

There are about sixty inmates,
who are lodged, fed, and clothed.
Few charitable institutions dating
from so far back are so thoroughly
efficient and carry out the wishes
of the founder so perfectly as
Simpson's Hospital.
Skerries is a town of about
2,200 inhabitants, situated on
the coast within 19 miles of
Dublin on the G.N.R. Line.
Like all the towns in FINGALL,
as the northern district of the
county was called, it is very
clean, although its inhabitants
are, as a rule, poor and its houses
small and, for the most part,
thatched. The town is a popular
summer resort for Dubliners, as
it possesses a superb strand and
has good facilities for bathing at
any state of the tide. There is
a small harbour and boating may
be enjoyed. Within a short
distance of the beach are Colt
Island, Shenick's Island, and S.
Patrick's Island, called originally
Holm Patrick, and remarkable as
the residence of Ireland's patron
saint. The relics of a church are
still to be seen on it. Five miles
from land lies Rockabill with
its conspicuous lighthouse. Within
easy walk from Skerries in the
LUSK direction is the gaunt
old ruin of Baldungan Castle,
built in the I3th century. The
castle belonged to the Berming-
hams, and passed by marriage
into the possession of the Howth
family, whose arms adorn the
front. This castle was battered
by Cromwell's artillery, it is said,
from the ships lying in the bay ;
but as the distance is over three
miles the statement seems incre-
dible. Adjoining the castle is a
church with a cemetery, in which
many old tombstones may be
seen.

The chief industry- of Skerries

is embroidery of muslin. Many
of the inhabitants are engaged
also in embroidering stockings in
connection with the great stock-
ing industry at BALBRIGGAN,
which is distant about four miles.
Skerries and the islands are
famous as resorts of many dif-
ferent species of sea birds.

Squares. The chief squares in
Dublin are S. STEPHEN 's-
GREEN, MERRION-SOUARE, and
FITZWILLIAM-SQUARE, at the
south side of the river, and
MOUNTJOY-SQUARE and RUT-
LAND-SQUARE in the north.
WEAVERS'.SQU ARE is a small paved
space containirig some very old
houses. QUEEN-SQUARE (Map
B), lately laid out by the Cor-
poration as a public garden, opens
off Great Brunswick-street, and
is a favourite habitat of thea-
trical folk. The suburb of RATH-
MINES contains several squares.

Statues. Dublin possesses many
statues and public monuments,
some of which are but little
adornment to the city Among
the more important may be
named :

O'Connell, in Sackville-street,
foundation laid 1864, unveiled
August 1 5th, 1882, is from the
studio of Foley, although at his
death the completion of the de-
sign devolved upon Mr. Brock,
one of his pupils. The fine figure
of the Liberator, 12 feet high,
stands upon a pedestal 28 feet in
height, and forms one of the
noblest memorials in the city.
It is fully described elsewhere.

To the genius of Thomas Far-
rell, R.H.A., Dublin owes the
statue of Sir John Gray, a colossal
figure in Sarravezza marble, stand-
ing, with its pedestal, 24 feet
high. The figure is over 10 feet
in height. In front of the Marl-
borough-street Schools stands

261

another fine work by Farrell the
statue of Sir Alexander M'Don-
nell, one of the Commissioners
of Education [1839-71]. From
Farrell's studio also came the fine
marble figure of Smith O'Brien,
.at the southern end of Carlisle
Bridge. At the junction of West-
moreland-street with College-
street stands the strangely un-
graceful figure
intended to
perpetuate the
memory of
Ireland's
most graceful
poet, Thomas
Moore. This
effigy in lead
has been long
the laughing-
stock of the
city and ought
to have been
pulled down
long since,
Shortly after
its erection
the head was
removed and
replaced with
the chin raised
three inches
above its for-
mer level.
College -street
has been pecu-
liarly unfortu-
nate in the
attentions of
the Committee

of Fine Arts (!), to whose artistic
sense we owe also the remarkable
memorial to Sir Philip CRAMPTON
a drinking fountain, which is
commonly called the Cauliflower,
Among the most recent addi-
tions to the public monuments of
our city is the Father Mathew
Memorial Statue in Upper Sack-
ville-street. The figure of the

FATHER MATHEW

great Temperance Reformer, in
the habit of the Capuchin Order,
is a beautiful piece of work from
the studio of Miss Mary Redmond,
and is a notable addition to our
public sta tuary. The fine statute
of Barry Sullivan in the character
of Hamlet, which occupies a pro-
minent position in GLASNEVIN
CEMETERY, between the Mor-
tuary Chapel

, and the O'Con-

nell Circle, is
the latest (1894)
among many
masterpieces
from Farrell's
chisel in this
cemetery. A-
mong the older
statues to be
seen in Dublin
are equestrian
figures of Wil-
liam III. [1701]
fully described
elsewhere [Coi.-
LEGE GREEN] ;
'reorge I. in
ihe MANSION
HOUSE Gardens
[1723]; George
II. [1758] in
the centre of
Stephen's-green.
A figure of this
monarch, erect-
ed 1750, maybe
seen also over
the entrance to
Weaver's Hall.

Statues of George III. by Van
Nost, George IV. , Dr. Lucas the
patriot ; Moore, the poet ; Drum-
mond, the politician, are to be
seen in the CITY HALL, where
also stands Chantrey's masterpiece,
a noble statue of Ireland's famous
orator, Henry Grattan. In the
crypt of Christ Church Cathedral
are still to be seen two figures re-

262

presenting Charles II. and James,
Duke of York, which stood origi-
nally over the old THOLSEL.
There are of course many fine
statues in ST. PATRICK'S also, and
in the PRO-CATHEDRAL and the
FOUR COURTS. In Stephen's-
green there is a fine figure of Lord
Eglinton, and a seated figure of
Lord Ardilaun [1892] by Farrell,
erected by public subscription in
honour of the donor of the Park.
Lastly, we may call attention to
Foley's statue in St. Patrick's
Churchyard, erected in 1875 m
memory of Sir Benjamin Lee
Guinness.

The WELLINGTON TESTI-
MONIAL in the Phoenix Park is a
plain granite obelisk, 150 feet
high, with the names of the great
Duke's victories engraved upon it.

The model of an ancient Irish
Round-tower which has been
placed in Prospect Cemetery over
the grave of O'Connell
was erected in 1869.

The Phcenix Pillar
erected by Lord Ches-
terfield, when Viceroy,
in 1747, is curious as
having given appa-
rently for ever an en-
tirely erroneous name
to our famous park, the
Irish name of which
[Fionnuisg clear
waters] arose from a
beautiful well near the
present Viceregal
Lodge. Surely, while
the true origin of name
is yet known, an in-
scription ought to be
placed on this column
to record how the mis-
take has arisen.

Of statues the more
important are : The
Gough Statue, erected
in 1880, and considered

to be one of Foley's finest eques-
trian statues. From the studio
of the same sculptor we have also
the fine figure of Lord Carlisle,
erected in 1869, in the People's
Gardens ; the statues of Gold-
smith (1863) and Burke (1868) in
front of the University, and that
of Grattan (1876) in College-
green three most graceful ex-
amples in very different styles of
this artist's work. In the hall at
the COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS
the visitor may see one statue
by Bruce Joy, and three by
Foley.

Steevens 1 Hospital. (Map
D.), is the most interesting of the
general Hospitals of Dublin. It
is close to King's-bridge and forms
a pictureseque and fine quadrangle
233 x 204 feet, with an internal
space surrounded by piazzas sup-
porting the corridors of the upper
sumys. It owes its existance to

STEEVENS HOSPITAL.

263

Dr. Richard Steevens and his
twin sister Grizelda ; the former in
1710 bequeathed his estate to his
sister for her life, after which it
was to be devoted to building an
hospital. He died the day after
he made his will, whereupon
Madam Steevens (popularly the
hospital is often called " Madam
Steevens'") determined to have
the hospital built at once and sur-
rendered the estate to the trustees,
keeping 1 50 a year for her own
life, and apartments in the hospi-
tal. The building, 1720-33, cost
; 1 6,000, collected by subscrip-

copied from the Temple of
Minerva Polias at Athens. The
tower and dome also are copied
from Athenian models, and reach
a height of 100 feet. Until the
disestablishment of the Irish
Church, S. Stephen's was a Chapel-
of-Ease to S. PETER'S.
Stephen s-green Saint,
was originally levelled in 1678,
and surrounded by a deep ditch
which was usually a receptacle
for every kind of filth. This
ditch was filled up, and in 1815
iron railings were substituted, but
the original ditch can be seen in

S. STEPHEN S GREEN.

tion, the Steevens' money being
kept for an endowment. The
Boardroom contains many objects
of interest, such as portraits of
Dr. Steevens and his sister, old
books and old furniture.
Stephen, Church of S.
(Map B.) The Church of S.
Stephen, Upper Mount-street,
was built in 1825, from a design
by T. Bowden, the body of the
church measuring in feet by 49
feet, and the chancel 66 by 44.
It is classical, the portico being

Malton's views, with the "genteel
company who walked there after
two on Sundays." In 1880 Lord
Ardilaun, with a munificence cha-
racteristic of his family, laid out
this vast space, which had pre-
viously been a dreary waste, in-
tersected by walks of mathema-
matical straightness. Rarely has
landscape gardening produced a
happier result, and Stephen's-
green may now rank as one of
the finest as well as the largest
squares in Europe. Each side of

264

the square is a quarter of a mile S words, an ancient borough 3
in length. In Rocque's Map, miles distant from MALAHIDE,

1 756, the four sides are named :
Beaux-walk, French-walk, Lee-
son's-walk, Monk's-walk.

Stephen's-green contains some
of the finest houses in the city,
almost all of which have interest-
ing histories. Among famous
persons who lived here may be
mentioned Whateley, Lord Chan-
cellor Plunkett, Felicia Hemans,
Buck Whalley, &c.

Sti Morgan, a village 1 5 miles
S.E. of Dublin, with a population
of 1,558. There are
three religious houses
in the neighbour-
hood. The race-
course at LEOPARDS-
TOWN, close to the
station of Foxrock,
is one of the most
popular as well as
the most picturesque
in the district. There
is a curious obelisk.
loo feet high, near
the village. It was
erected " to give em-
ployment to the
poor" in the year
1741, in which year
also the much better
known obelisk of
Killiney was built
with the same laudable object.

Strawberry Beds LUCAN.

Surgeons ROYAL COLLEGE
OF SURGEONS.

Swi m m i ng. The best facilities
for swimming in the neighbour-
hood of town are to be found at
Sandycove beyond Kingstown,
Blackrock, Merrion, and Clontarf.
The last three have enclosed
BATHS, which are filled at high
tide. Howth also is a favourite
place for swimmers, but it, like
Bray, is too far off for the resi-
dents in the city.

which was onue its port, and
9 from Dublin. The town is
now remarkable chiefly for its
archaeological remains. The an-
cient Abbey and Round Tower
of Swords are conspicuous
objects for miles around. The
name Swords is believed to be
derived from the word "sord,"
pure water, and was applied
originally to the famous well still
known as S. Columbkill's Well,
which supplies drinking water to

SWORDS.

the inhabitants. Beside the Abbey-
is a very fine ROUND TOWER,
now covered with ivy. There
is also an extensive castle, the
gateway and walls being well
preserved. Swords appears re-
peatedly in ancient records and
has quite an interesting history,
too long for repetition here. It
was sacked again and again by
the Danes, but has now sunk
into a very sleepy condition
bereft of whatever little trade it
may once have possessed, and not
even on any railway line.

265

Synagogue JEWS.

Ta.lla.ght, an ancient town, now
fallen into decay, is best ap-
proached by the Blessington
Steam Tramway from Terenure,
a distance of about four miles.
The name refers to the numerous
sepulchral mounds found on the
hills around. The parish church
has an ancient square belfry,
covered with ivy and possessing
very irregular stepped battle-
ments. This tower is of extreme
antiquity, and the old church has
supplied materials for the con-
struction of the present building.
A very curious antique font of
horseshoe shape is still to be seen
in the churchyard. Beside the
tower stood Tallaght Palace, the
country residence of the Arch-
bishop of Dublin, the demesne of
which was sold about 1820 by
Archbishop Magee to Major
Palmer on condition that he
would demolish the old oalace,
lest it should become a monastic
institution. It was, however,
leased in 1842 to the Dominicans,
who have built a large monastery
on the site of the ancient palace !
A very beautiful chapel has been
erected in the monastery to the
memory of the famous preacher,
Father Burke. Tallaght was in
1867 the scene of some rioting
in connection with the Fenian
disturbances of that year.
Technical Schools. The
City of Dublin Technical Schools
were the outcome of the Artizans'
Exhibition, held in 1886, on a
plot of ground situate between
Dame-street and Exchequer-street.
At the close of the Exhibition,
it was proposed by some members
of the Committee that the build-
ings should be utilized for Techni-
cal Schools, and a Provisional
Committee was formed to take
the preliminary steps. It was

then found that a very large sum
would have to be expended upon
the existing buildings to render
them suitable for Technical
Schools, and that the rent of the
premises was prohibitive.

Suitable premises were found
in Messrs. Fry's old factory in
Lower Kevin -street which were
taken by the Committee, the
landlord kindly giving a large
rebate in the rent for the first
three years as a subscription
to the Schools. Public subscrip-
tions were then collected and
the Dublin Corporation made an
annual grant of ^500 (afterwards
increased to .750) under the
Public Libraries Acts towards the
maintenance of Science and Art
Classes.

Public Lectures in various trade
subjects were given with a view
to making known the objects of
the School in the Spring, and
Evening Classes were opened in
the Autumn of 1888. The Tech-
nological Classes in Carpentry,
Metalplate work, Plumbing, &c. ;
the Commercial Classes in Book-
keeping and Shorthand, as well
as Classes in Cookery and Dress-
making, are supported entirely by
Public Subscription.

In 1893 the Corporation putting
the Technical Instruction Acts
[1889] into operation in the city,
levied the full rate of id. in the
, and made a grant to the Kevin-
street Schools towards the main-
tenance, improvement, and in-
crease of the Technological and
Commercial Classes, and a branch
or new School will be opened on
the north side of the city, as
soon as suitable premises can be
obtained.

In 1892 the Earl of Pembroke
offered a Site and Endowment for
a Technical and Fishery School
in Ringsend, on the condition that

266

the Pembroke Township should
put the Technical Instruction Acts
into operation and support the
School. The Township at once
responded to the Earl's generous
offer, and the School was opened
in October. 1893.

Templeogue, a small village,
the first stopping-place of the
BLESSINGTON Steam Tramway,
was the residence of the Irish
novelist, Charles Lever, who lived
in Templeogue House one of
many houses in which tradition
says that King James slept on the
night of his defeat at the Battle
of the Boyne ! The house still
possesses gigantic grottoes, exten-
sive gardens and other features
which bear witness to its departed
grandeur.

Tenter House FLEASAXTS,
THOMAS.

Theatres. We read that in
early days plays were performed
on a stage erected in Hogge's-
green, now COLLEGE-GREEN.
Many attempts were made in the
seventeenth century to establish a
permanent theatre ; in 1662 anew

THE THOLSEL

theatre in Smock-alley fell in on
the audience, killing a large
number of them. After this dis-
aster no new theatre was opened
until the eighteenth century,
towards the middle of which there
were six or more places of thea-
trical entertainment in the city.
The Theatre Royal (Crow-
street) was at the close of last
century the leading "house" in
Dublin ; but the new Theatre
Royal in Hawkins's-street, built
in 1821 on the site of the old
Dublin Society's house by Mr.
Beagley, and burnt in 1880 (see
FIRES) was so much more easy of
access that the earlier house was
closed. At present Dublin
possesses only two theatres, the
Gaiety, in South King-street, off
Grafton-street, a very pretty little
house, lit with electric light ;
and the Queen's (Royal) Theatre,
the home of melo-drama, which
claims to be the oldest theatre in
Ireland.

Tholsel. The meetings of the
Common Council and of the Court
of Conscience used to be held in
a building
calico, tne
Tholsel,
built in the
Ciiurcnyarcl
at the cor-
ner of S.
Nicholas-
street and
Skinners'-
r o w (now
Christ
Church -
place); it
was design-
ed by Inigo
Jones and
was of rich
Jacobean
design. Fi-
gures of

267

Charles II. and James II. stood
in niches; they are now in the
crypt of CHRIST CHURCH
CATHEDRAL, but there is no
vestige of the Tholsel left ; it has
disappeared, and the ground was
let for building in 1807. The
Tholsel is perhaps the finest of
Malton's Views of Dublin.

Thomas, Church of, S.
(Map C\ S. Thomas's Church,
Marlborough-street, was built in
1758-62 by John Smith ; it has a
low Corinthian facade, copied from
a design by Palladio, which is
completely overshadowed by the
ugly gable of the body of the
church. Mr. Baker designed a
steeple to hide this defect but it
was never carried out. In the
earlier part of the century this was
considered the most beautiful
church ta(;ade in Dublin. The
interior (80 x 62) is spacious and
has been of late years much im-
proved. A Parochial Hall in
" cement classical " is built next
the church ; its interior is effect-
ively panelled in wood.

Three Rock Mountain
near Stepaside about 8 miles S.
of Dublin), 1,585 feet above the
level of the sea, affords a glorious
panorama across the Bay, and in
fine weather as far as the distant
Mourne Mountains, and is a
favourite walk with Dubliners.
The "Rocks" are huge masses
of granite piled steeply upon one
another.

Topography. The city of
Dublin is the capital of the county
of the same name, and is situated
at its east border on both sides
of the tidal portions of the
river LIFFEY. Dublin Bay
is bounded on the north by
HOWTH, a rocky promontory
563 feet high, and on the south
by the Killiney Hills, 472 feet
high. The northern portion of

the county is comparatively flat,
being separated from Meath by
hills not quite 500 feet high, but
at the south the rounded and bog-
covered Dublin and Wicklow
mountains form a high barrier,
which at the summit of Kippure
reaches 2,473 f eet - To the west
is the valley of the Liffey and flat
rich land only occasionally risinj?
into hills. The east coast-line of
the county is 70 miles long, and
is chiefly low and sandy, but in
some parts rocky. There are
harbours at Balbriggan, Rush,
Howth, Dublin, Kingstown, Bul-
lock and Dalkey. Kingstown and
Dublin are the only ones that are
accessible at all tides.

The islands along the coast
are, to the north, the Skerries
five in number, one of which
ROCKABILL bears a lighthouse
with flashing red light. Then
there is LAM BAY, nearly 600 acres
in extent, and IRELAND'S EYE (or
Island), a mile from Howth and
a favourite summer excursion,
the jagged rocks the home of
sea-birds, and the ruined chuich
being attractive. At the south
side of the bay close to the main-
land is DALKEY Island ; it also has
its ruined church, and used to
icjoice in a "King." Howth
and Dalkey Island form the
boundaries of the bay which is
about 6f miles wide.

There are two large banks of
sand, one at either side of the
river bar ; they are called the
North and South Bull. The
former is fixed on the west by the
Bull wall, 9,000 feet long, the
lighthouse at the end of which
marks one side of the opening of
the river, the other being the
POOLBEG LIGHTHOUSE at the end
of the South Wall which separates
the South Bull from the channel
of the river (PORT OF DUBLIM).

268

, Most of the city stands on the
raised beach and alluvial land at
the lower end of the valley of the
Liffey. A well-marked raised
beach con-
nects the Hill
of Howth to
the mainland :
the Hill is of
Cambrian for-
mation as is
Bray Head
(county Wick-
low) at the
south, and in
both are found
species of
Oldhamia the
earliest pre-
served vestige
of life. The
Killiney Hills
are of granite
which extends
neai ly seventy
miles south
from Kings-
tow n, also ap-
pearing to the
north at
Rockabill.
The occur-
rence of local
glaciers is
shown by
moraines (as
at Upper and
Lower Lough
Bray). There
are also rock
scorings and
ridges show-
ing that a
great iceflow
came from the
west and
passed over
the site of
Dublin.

Tramways
Tram cars

commenced running in 1872 from
Rathgar to College-green ; ra-
pidly new lines were opened, and
the North City Tram Company

269

started, and was shortly afterwards
amalgamated with the older
company. They, as the Dublin
United Tramway Company, are
second to none in the excellence
of their arrangements for the
public convenience. The cars,
with few exceptions, start from
the G.P.O. at Nelson's Pillar or
College-green, and there is prac-
tically no district of the city to
which an excellent service has
not been organized. The fares
are cheap, and the cars follow
each other in rapid succession.
There is no better way in which
the visitor can acquire a good
general impression of Dublin's
main arteries, and some of its
outlying suburbs, than to take his
seat on the top of a tramcar.
(Part I., chapter vi.)
Trinity College (Map A),
was founded in 1591 by Adam
Loftus on the site of the Nun-
nery of S. Mary de Hogges
(Hoggen-green), outside the city
of Dublin, as may still be seen on
the official seal of the University
in the words "juxta Dublin."
The site, which had lain derelict
since the dissolution of the monas-
teries under Henry VIII., was
granted free by the Corporation
of Dublin.

With Archbishop Loftus was
united Lucas Chaloner, a former
Fellow of Trinity College, Cam-
bridge, and to him more than to
any other is due the credit of
being the real founder of Trinity
College. An alabaster tomb to
this famous man may be seen at
the rere of the chapel, and it
speaks but ill for the College that
this tomb is in so neglected a con-
dition. The original buildings,
opened for students in 1593-4.
were of red Dutch brick, and re-
mained an integral part of the
college until the building of the

new front square in 1751-59.
They occupied a position between
the present Campanile and the
Examination Hall. The early
college was deliberately instituted
"for the benefyt of the whole
country," and no exclusion on
grounds of religion was contem-
plated in the original charter; nor,
indeed, did any exclusive system
arise before the charter o f Charles
1. At the present time there is
absolutely no exclusion on grounds
of religious disability known in
Trinity College. The gradual rise
of the building from such small
beginnings to the present stately
pile may be accurately traced on
a map given in Stubb's History,
and we need only add that the
line of buildings there seen be-
tween the Library and the Com-
mons Hall was not taken down
until 1839. "Botany Bay" (so
called because it was poked into
an out-of-the-way corner) was
built in the closing years of last
century, and finally the New
Square was erected in 1838-44.
This square was originally open
on the side of the Park, and the
superb New Buildings were
erected in 1857. It will be seen
that the oldest buildings now
standing are the residential parts
of Library Square, which dated
from the time of Queen Anne.
These ranges of buildings had
dormer windows in the attic
storey ; but in 1894 the old roof
was removed and the walls raised.
The buildings are now of four
uniform storeys a piece of Van-
dalism, which it is difficult to
excuse. The Graduates' Memo-
rial Building was, at the sam?
time, built into the central posi-
tion of the similar block which
faces the Library. Thu?, piece
by piece, all that was ancient or
valuable in the structure of thr

GOLDSMITH.

College has been obliterated,
giving place to a very in-
artistic u n i f o r m i t y. The
original front is depicted in
Brooking's Map of Dublin
(1728), and consisted of
buildings very similar to those
of Queen Anne's period with
dormer windows. To the
visitor quite the most in-
teresitng thing to be seen
within the walls of " Old
Trinity" is the Library ;
which owes its origin to a
subscription raised in 1601
by some of Elizabeth's sol-
diers as a gift to the newly
founded University in com-
memoration of the victory
over the Spaniards at Kin-
sale. It is of interest to find
that Challoner and Ussher,
while in London purchasing
books with this fund, held
consultation with the famous
Bodley, who was at the same
time buying books for his
Oxford Library. After the
death of Ussher in 1656 the
soldiers then in Ireland, emu-
lous of the action of their
predecessors, purchased his
valuable library to present to
the College, in which after
many vicissitudes, it still
rests. The present Library
was erected 1712-1732, and
received many noble bequests,
while the College authorities
were no less liberal in money
grants for the purchase of
books. In 1801 the Library
acquired the right, shared
with four other great lib-
raries, to receive free of
charge a copy of every book
published in the kingdom,
provided that the Librarian
claims the book within one
year of publication. The
number of books at present

271

in the Library is about 225,000,
including MSS.

Among the objects of interest
which the visitor should notice we
may mention some Egyptian

with extremely interesting his-
tories, and, of more especial
interest to Irish students, many
superbly illustrated books written
by our Irish saints, and elabo-

QUEEN ANNE BUILDING.

papyrus, finely embellished with
pictures, representing the history
of a departed soul, some biblical
palimpsests and other manuscripts

rately ornamented with the cha-
racteristic Celtic interlaced work.
Chief among these is the famous
Book of Je/ls, almost every

272

word of which is so abundantly
ornamented that it is has been
called "the most beautiful book in
the world. " The Book of Armagh,

strange old satchels and shrines,
in which these volumes were pre-
served, are exhibited beside them
and should not be overlooked.

THE LIBRARY.

the Book of Dimma as well as
many others deserve notice and
may be seen usually in the glass
cases during the daytime. The

Among Celtic works the most
famous is the Book of Leinster.
It would be impossible for a
stranger to see all the objects of

273

interest in one visit, but we may
call his special attention to one
or two of the more important
the harp of Kins; Brian Boroihme
(pronounced " Boru"), some ele-
gant gold ornaments, including
the largest gold ornament as yet
found in Ireland, a small original
Greek bas-relief representing
Demosthenes at the altar, said to
have been found in the ruins of
Hadrian's villa. The rapid in-
crease in the number of books
has made it necessary to enclose
the ground floor which, before
1892, was an open colonnade.
The western portion of the space
so gained is now utilised as a
reading-room for those who are
permitted to read in the Library.
This right belongs to graduates
alone, but permission is readily
extended to any one who is pro-
perly introduced. The Library
closes at 3 in winter and at 4 in
summer.

On leaving the Library the
visitor should pass into the
College Park where the students
are usually to be seen engaged
at cricket or football. At the
pavilion end are the great build-
ings of the Trinity Medical School
which is so famous all the world
over. Here too are the Anatomical
Museum (1875), and the Histo-
logical Laboratory (1880). The
museum contains a good collection
of Anatomy and of Natural His-
tory, and an excellent system of
Anthropometric measurement is
carried on in it. Close at hand
are the Dissecting Rooms, and still
further in the direction of Lincoln-
place gate stand the Chemical
Laboratories, which are equipped
with all the modern appliances
requisite in chemical research. A
new degree, founded in 1890, of
Doctor in Science has attracted
large numbers of graduates to

this school. Strolling back to-
wards the New Square one passes
the Lawn Tennis Courts and the
College Gymnasium. On re-
entering the New Square, a visit
must be paid to the New Buildings
quite the most beautiful erection
in Trinity College. It was de-
signed by Mr., now Sir Thomas,
Deane and erected in 1854-5 at a
cost of ,26,000. This noble
building is in the style of a
Venetian palace and has won the
highest praise from no less cap-
able a critic than Mr. Ruskin.

The Entrance Doorway and the
main hall, both of which are
illustrated, are extremely beauti-
ful. The hall is rather suggestive
of Moorish art. All the marbles
used are Irish and the general
effect is extremely good. The
clock upon the stairs is regulated
by an electric current from
DUNSINK OBSERVATORY. The
same current is utilised to control
the clocks over the entrance gate
and also the timepiece in the hall
of the ROYAL DUBLIN SOCIETY
HOUSE. The New Buildings are
the home of the Engineering
School of the college and contain
fine geological and mineralogical
collections upstairs, as well as a
number of engineering models and
a good collection of instruments.
The lecture rooms of the Divinity
School and Law Schools also are
in this building, and some of the
smaller rooms are not infrequently
used as examination rooms for
Moderatorships. Before we leave
the New Square a glance should
be taken at the Printing House,
which is an excellent example of
an old Greek temple fa9ade. It
was built in 1734 by Bishop
Stearne, as the inscription
above the entrance tells. The
interior is not of course open to
inspection, but many fables are
T

274

current in Trinity of the ex-
pedients resorted to by students
in the olden days to obtain
advance copies of coming exami-
nation papers. The precautions
are too complete to allow of any

with its dormer windows (cf. page
21) was removed in 1894, and a
modern Queen Anne storey built.
The red brick was then exposed
to view.

The one great point in which

such attempt being made in our
own times. Before entering the
Library square we may notice the
rere of the oldest line of buildings
now standing. The upper storey

Dublin University contrasts un-
favourably with its English sisters
is in regard to the coldness and
lack of adornment in its squares
and quadrangles. Trinity College

275

is so vast, when compared with
an individual college of either
Oxford or Cambridge, that one
cannot fairly demand here the
same richness of ornament which
is there so lavishly displayed.
Within recent years a laudable
attempt has been made by
judicious planting of Virginian
creepers on some of the buildings
to take away at least some of this
coldness ; and as we look back
towards the Library from the
Printing House we cannot
fail to be struck by the great
improvement thus caused. We
next visit the Dining-hall, built
in 1745, and re-built, as being in
a dangerous condition, in 1761.
The front is of no great beauty,
though designed by the leading
Dublin architect of the day, Mr.
Cassells. The clock over the
Dining-hall was, until 1870, re-
markable as being kept by order
of the Board a quarter of an hour
behind Dublin time. An amusing
reference to this astounding pecu-
liarity will be found in the Uni-
versity Magazine called Kottabos
(First Series). The Dining-hall
itself is a noble room 70 feet long
by 35 feet broad, and 35 feet high.
It is wainscoted to a height of 12
feet in oak. The ceiling spring-
ing from a cornice of Italian
design is very graceful, and the
room is ornamented with excellent
portraits of distinguished alumni,
including Flood and Grattan.
From the pulpit near the Fellows'
Table the Scholars of the House
in their turn pronounce the old
Latin Graces before and after
meat. Over the Entrance-hall is
the Fellows' Common-room, a
fine room adorned with some good
modern paintings, chiefly of the
Fellows and Provosts. There are
also some additional rooms, built
in 1892, to give the Fellows

necessary accommodation for
social purposes. The Kitchens
immediately below the Dining-
hall, together with the Cellars,
the Buttery,&c.,are quite worth a
visit, and the Clerk of the Kitchen
will tell many a quaint story of the
doings of many of our most digni-
fied citizens of the early parts of the
century, when they were ' ' College
boys." The average number of
diners in Term amounts to some
300, and the roasting and baking
arrangements will make the lady
visitor open her eyes ! On leaving
the Common-hall we must visit
the Chapel, which was erected in
1787-98, from designs by Sir W.
Chambers, who designed all the
buildings which look upon Parlia-
ment-square, as the large front
square is called. The front of
the Chapel is similar to that of
the Examination-hall and consists
of a fine portico of four Roman
Corinthian columns 33 feet in
height, rising from a base of three
steps and supporting a side
cornice with the usual pediment.
The Chapel, exclusive of the Ante-
Chapel and the apse, is 85 feet
long by 40 wide. The Ante-
Chapel contains some mural slabs,
on which are inscribed the names
of some of the Fellows who are
buried within the precincts.
Partly over this Ante-Chapel and
partly over the stalls of the Senior
Fellows is the Organ Gallery, in
which seats are reserved for
strangers who can get "orders"'
for the 9.45 o'clock Service on
Sunday mornings. The visitor
will hear in College Chapel
the best Cathedral Choir in
Dublin, and the early hour
at which Service is held,
is a distinct advantage. The
interior of the Chapel owes what-
ever of beauty it possesses to
private benefactors. The marble

276

steps and rails before the Altar
were the gift of Provost Hum-
phrey Lloyd (1872). The windows
in the Apse are filled with painted

are memorials respectively of the
great Bishop Berkeley and of Dr.
Richard Graves, S.T.P. All the
windows are round-headed, de-

DOORWAY, XEW BUILDINGS.

glass ; the central winding being
erected by Dr. Butcher, Bishop of
Meath, to the memory of the
famous Archbishop Ussher, while
those on the right and left sides

void of any tracery ; and as those
in the apse alone are painted
there is a great want of warmth
in the colouring of the Chapel.
The woodwork of the fine oak

277

wainscoting is elaborately carved,
and cost between five and six
thousand pounds. Between the
windows are coupled Ionic pilas-

was originally built by Green,
George III.'s favourite organ
builder, but has been veiy greatly
enlarged so that little or nothing

STAIRCASE, NEW BUILDINGS.

ters which support an ornamental
frieze and cornice, from which
rises the coved ceiling with its
elaborate stucco work of very
florid Italian design. The organ

now remains of the original instru-
ment. Of the seats in Chapel,
those next to the wall on either
side are reserved for Junior Fellows
and Professors, while the students

278

sit below. Service is held both
morning and evening every day,
but Sunday mon-ing Service alone
is fully choral, and at it the
students all wear surplices. Facing
the Chapel, and precisely similar

well as by a range of small
semi-circular windows over the
cornice. The walls are adorned
with composite pilasters, stand-
ing separately at intervals of 12
feet on a rusticated basement. 10

in external design and in internal
o -namentation, so far as the differ-
ent uses would allow, is the Ex-
amination Theatre. This superb
chamber is lighted by three
large windows in the apse, as

feet high. The fine stucco fr eze
and cornice are the work of Italian
artists, while the richly decorated
ceiling was designed and mod-
elled by Mayers, under the direc-
tion of Sir Thomas Chambers

279

The pictures in the Hall are
modern copies, chiefly by Hill.
Formerly students regarded the
seat, which was immediately under
the picture of good Queen Bess, as

dying, while the University weeps
as she supports his drooping head,
and an angel points to the crown
of immortality which she carries
in her hand. The sarcophagus is

peculiarly unlucky, and avoided it
at all examinations. The Baldwin
monument is the work of Hewston,
a Dublin Artist, who executed it
in his studio at Rome. The
figures represent the great Provost

of porphyry, and the cost of the
monument was almost ; 1,500,
including the cost of bringing it
from Rome to Dublin. The
organ in the gallery, usually sup-
posed to have been taken from

280

one of the Sp
wrecked on the Irish coast, was in
actual fact presented to the Uni-
versity by the second Duke of
Ormonde (1703), who had found
it in a prize ship, captured in the
attack on the combined French
and Spanish Fleets in
Vigo Bay in 1702.
The chandelier, de-
signed for 60 candles,
which hangs from the
ceiling, is of carved
oak gilt, and belonged
to the Irish House of
Commons. It used to
hang in S. Andrew's
Church. During the
conferring of Degrees,
ladies are admitted
to the gallery, from
which many notable
scenes have been wit-
nessed, when the

Public Orator's Latin orations
were rendered more than usually
unintelligible to his listeners by
an accompaniment of squibs and
crackers always prepared by the
U ndergrads, for any favourite who
happens to be the recipient of an
Honorary Degree.

The Campanile, stand-
ing in an isolated posi-
tion in the middle of the
Great Quadrangle, was
erected in 1852, by Lord
John George Bere.sford,
Primate of all Ireland.
The circular belfry, sur-
rounded by eight Corin-
thian pillars raised upon
pedestals, is set upon a
stage of circular steps
supported by a basement
storey of the Doric order,
square in plan, and built
of rusticated granite.

CAMPANILE.

281

282

There is an archway in each
side of the square, and the key-
stones are carved, representing
Homer, Socrates, Plato, and De-
mosthenes. At each corner of
the square, above the entablature,
are pedestals with seated figures,
symbolic of Divinity, Science,
Medicine, and Law. Above the
bell-chamber rises a dome of very
graceful form, over which is a
smaller gallery of open arches
crowned by a smaller dome with a
gilt cross. The College Bell,
weighing about 37 cwt. is too
large to swing in the chamber,
and it is therefore rung only by
chiming. The old buildings fa-
cing the Library, and usually
called Rotten-row, are about to be
remodelled, so that the Students'
Union a memorial of the Ter-
centenary of 1892 will occupy
the centre of the block.

The Provosfs House is said to
be a copy of the design (or General
Wade's House in Piccadilly.
This is the famous Field Marshal
Wade who pacified Scotland by
building military roads, and of
whom the poet sings

If you'd seen but these roads

before they were made,

You'd hold up your hands and

bless General Wade.

The main entrance is from
Grafton-street. but a very lofty
wall deprives the visitor of much
view of the building ; there is a
private way, which connects the
Provost's Library directly with
Parliament-square at the doorway
to the right of the Examination
Hall buildings. The House con-
tains many fine portraits of former
Provosts, but it is of course not
open to the public. The Fellows'
gardens lie behind the Library
and are not very noticeable, except
perhaps for the Magnetic Obser-

vatory where Dr. Lloyd, afterwards
Provost, carried out his well-known
experiments. This observatory
was at the time when it was built
(1837) the sole observatory in the
kingdom, with the single exception
of Greenwich, devoted entirely to
magnetic research.

If " Old Trinity " lacks in some
degree the architectural beauty of
Cambridge or of Oxford, she has a
stateliness all her own. Her
culture too is no whit inferior,
though distinct from that of her
sisters. She can boast among her
alumni great names, whose lustre
her English sisters may well envy.
We need only mention a few
eachagiant Burke,Swift, Ussher.
Congreve, Goldsmith, Berkeley.
Trinity Dublin has till lately been
dubbed the "silent sister," because
her sons published little within
the first fifty years of the nine-
teenth century ; but she has again
found her voice, and in the studies
which are peculiarly her own, she
speaks now with no uncertain
sound. The Observatory of the
University is at DUNSINK, and
may be seen usually by writing to
the Astronomer Royal for per-
mission.

Tullagh, sometimes called
Tuly, Church stands near Ca-
binteely. Only the chancel now
remains, with a finely modelled
arch. Among many tomb-stones
is one to the memory of Mary
Mercer, who, in 1734, founded
Mercer's Hospital. There are also
to be seen here several stones with
incised markings. Right in the
middle of the road is a plain Irish
Cross in good preservation. This
cross is represented in Grose's
Antiquities (1791) as standing on
a square block in the graveyard.
The present rough granite pedes-
tal on which the cross is sup-
ported was built when the level

283

of the road was lowered, so as to
avoid moving the sacred emblem.
In a field to the W. is another
very remarkable broken cross.
The views from this position are
excellent ; and the tourist can
from Tullagh easily reach Glen
Druid, a most picturesque glen,
in which is a very fine cromlech.
[DRIVES'].

Tyrawley House ECCLES
STREET.

Ulster King of Arms. In
the journal of King Edward VI.,
under date 2nd February, 1551,
there is the following entry :
" There was a King-of-Arms
made for Ireland whose name
was Ulster, and his province was
all Ireland, and he was the fourth
King-of-Arms, and the first
Herauld of Ireland." The Office
of Arms, of which the origin is
thus mentioned, is situated in the
Bermingham Tower, Dublin
Castle. Ulster is accounted an
officer of the Lord Lieutenant's
Household, and is paid a fixed
salary.

Unitarian Church (Map A).
A handsome granite building in
decorated Gothic, on the west
side of S. Stephen 's-green,
erected from the designs of
Messrs. Lanyon, Lynn, and
Lanyon, 1862. It is |_- sna Pfd>
consisting of nave with one side
aisle and one transept ; there are
schoolrooms underneath. The
facade towards the Green,
although hemmed in by houses,
is picturesque and effective.

University of Dublin
TRINITY COLLKGE.

University, Royal- ROYAL
UNIVERSITY.

Vale Of Avoca RATHDRUM.

Vartry WATER SUPPLY.

Vincent de Paul Male
Orphanage, S., Prospect,
Glasnevin. Founded 1856, en-

larged 1880. A handsome build-
ing of dark limestone, situated in
well-kept grounds, where the
roads to the PROSPECT CEME-
TERY and BOTANIC GARDENS
separate. It contains 120 boys.

Vincent de Paul, Society
of, S. This Society was
established in Dublin, in 1844. At
present there are 22 Conferences
and about 300 active members.
A large amount of relief is given
in temporary necessity, when the
breadwinner of a family is ill or
suffering from the effects of an
accident. By this means many
families are kept from the work-
house. Each year some 5,000
families are helped. The workers
are all Roman Catholics, but their
work is entirely unsectarian.

Waterfbrd House (Map C.),
Marlborough-street, was the first
stone house built in Dublin ; it
was designed by Cassels for the
Earl of Tyrone (afterwards Mar-
quis of Waterford) in 1740, and
faces the Cathedral of S. Mary.
It is occupied by the National
Education Commissioners, and
stands at the south side of an
open space. The matching build-
ing at the north has been built by
the Commissioners. Waterford
House has a handsome though
heavy Doric doorway, over which
is a Venetian window. The stairs,
doors, &c., are all of mahogany,
and the beautiful stucco work is
by Cretnillon and the Francini.

Water Supply. Dublin has
had for a long time an abundant
supply of water. (FOUNTAINS.)
During the earlier part of the
century it was derived from the
canals, the north side of the city
being supplied from the basin
at the top of Blessington-street
(lately laid out as a park), the
south side being supplied by
James-street basin and Porlobello

284

THE icommra TOILET.

basin. An old guide-
book says: "Around
each of these reservoirs
is a handsome walk,
bounded by quickset
hedges, which form a
delightful promenade
for the inhabitants in
its vicinity." The in-
habitants relied largely
upon the pumps for a
drinking supply. The
water at low pressure
was conveyed by pipes,
which at first were
wooden ; as the city
grew, the purity of the
canal water decreased,
city wells became con-
taminated, and the
need of a high pressure
service to reach the
tops of the houses and
save the use of fire-
engines, was felt.

Chiefly by the influ-
ence of Sir John Gray,
chairman of the Water-
works Committee, it
was resolved to bring
a new water supply
from Wicklow, the

basin of the river Vartry being the
source selected. This supply was
made available for use in 1868,
the works being designed and
carried out by Park Neville, C.E.
The river Vartry rises at the
base of Sugar Loaf mountain and
flows in a south direction through
a thinly populated district into
the sea at the town of Wicklow, 17^
miles from its source. The
Roundwood reservoir is yi miles
below its source, and covers 409
acres, its greatest depth being
60 feet, and its average depth 22
feet. It contains 240,000,000
gallons and is 692 feet high, or
580 feet above the highest part of

WASHING DAT.

285

Dublin. Large filter
beds are constructed
here. The water is
brought by a tunnel,
nearly three miles long,
and by large pipes (a
second service of which
is to be laid) to the
distributing reservoirs
at Stillorgan, a little
over four miles from
the city boundary.
The lower reservoir is
250 feet above the
Dublin quays. The
supply of water is large
and constant and the
quality good ; and only
once "(1893) had the
amount used to be cur-
tailed, although it is
supplied not only to
the city and neigh-
bouring townships, but
to the district between
Dublin and Bray. In
1893 extra supplies
were drawn from the
Grand Canal.

Hydrants are laid in
the streets every 100
yards, and no steam or
hand engines are re-

WELLINGTON TESTIMONIAL.

quired in coping with fires.

Weavers' Hall, Coombe, a

red-brick building fallen into sad
decay. A statue of George II.
adorns the front, and next door is
an equally aged and decrepit
Weavers' Alms House. The Hall
measures 50 x 21 and contained
a portrait of George II. worked
in tapestry with the following
couplet on the frame :
" The workmanship of John Van-
beaver,

Ye famous tapestiy weaver."
This portrait has been removed.
Wellington Testimonial.
(Map D.) The Wellington Tes-
timonial (designed by R. Smirke)

was erected by public sub-
scription : the committee desired
to place it in the centre of S.
Stephen's-green, but it was not
considered fit "that a king should
make way for a subject " and the
request was refused. The Salute
Battery in the Phoenix Park was
then given as a site and the monu-
ment was commenced in 1817.
It consists of a massive obelisk,
bearing the names of the victories
gained by the Duke, this rises
from a square pedestal ornamented
with bas-reliefs in bronze which
in turn stands on the summit
platform of a flight of steep and
slanting steps 480 feet in cir-

286

cumference. The total height is
205 feet. A smaller pedestal for
a statue was built at one side but
money for the statue not being
forthcoming it was removed,
greatly to the advantage of the
monument.

Werburgh, Church of S.

(Map A.) The church stands on
the east side of S. Werburgh-
street close to Christ Church
Cathedral. Originally the parish
was dedicated to S. Martin, but
a church dedicated toS. Werburgh
was erected in the end of the
XII. century. The present church
dates from the commencement of
the XVIII. century, being opened
for service about 1712, a tower
being added ten years afterwards
and six bells hung in 1748. In
1754 the church was burned by
the candlesnuffers being emptied
on the matting. It was rebuilt
and re-opened in 1759; in 1768
a spire 160 feet high was added.
This spire was the only church
spire in Dublin and forms a con-
spicuous object in many old views,
but being poorly built of small
stone it soon got out of repair, and
as the Government considered it
dangerous to have a tower over-
looking the castle, the parish
authorities were induced not to
have it restored but removed ;
in 1 8 10 the spire was taken down
in 1836 the tower followed, and
in 1855 five of the bells were
sold a sad history.

The fa?ade of the church is
classical lonicpilasters and Doric
doorway. Built into the outside
of the south wall are the figures
of a knight and his wife, with a
number of smaller figures and the
Geraldinearms; these are portions
of an altar tomb which stood in a
pew in the old church. The
interior, 80 x 52 (which is des-
cribed in old guide-books as of

"noble and awful simplicity")
contains some objects of interest,
the Royal arms (1767), mark the
old Viceregal pew (S. Werburgh's
is the parish church of the Castle
and was the Chapel Royal until
the Castle Chapel was built).
The fine pulpit carved byGrindley
Gibbons, belonged to the Castle
Chapel until the stone pulpit was
erected ; it was then given to S.
Andrew's, afterwards removed to
S. John's, and in 1878 came most
appropriately to the old Chapel
Royal of S. Werburgh. The
lectern is supported by the shaft
of the old pulpit. The or^an
dates from 1767 and the church
plate from 1676. The window
was presented in 1876 by Canon
(now Dean) Green. There are a
number of mural monuments, and
under the chancel lies the body of
Lord Edward Fitzgerald. In
another vault lies the body of Sir
J. Ware ( 1 594-1666) the antiquary.
The rebuilding of the tower has
lately been mooted, but so far
funds have not come in. An inter-
esting histoiy of the church has
been written by the Rev. S. C.
Hughes, Rector.

Wesley College, a fine build-

ing, unfortunately shut out from
view by the range of houses in
front of it, stands behind the
Wesleyan Chapel in Stephen's-
green, S. (SCHOOLS.)
Wide Street Com mis-
Sioners deserve mention.
They were appointed in i/58>
and given large powers for " open-
ing wide and convenient streets,"
the cost being met by taxation,
but the Commissioners being
unpaid. They opened Parliament-
street in 1762, from the Castle
to Grattan Bridge, opened the
west end of Dame-street (1790) to
connect the Castle with the Par-
liament House. They also opened

287

HARDING SCHOOLS.

North Frederick-street, Sackville-
street, Westmoreland-street,
D'Olier-street, Great Brunswick-
street. They intended to open
streets from Dame-street to Christ
Church Cathedra], and from York-
street to S. Patrick's Cathedral,
thus making a direct passage to
the latter from S. Stephen's-green.
The former of these projects has
lately been carried out by the
Corporation, but the latter is still
undone.
Wooden Bridge R A T H -

DRUM.

Working Boys' Home
and Harding: Techni-
cal School. (Map A.) The
Home was founded in 1877. In
1886, money bequeathed by Miss
Harding was given on condition
that a Technical and Night School
should be opened in connection
with the Home. With part of
this money the present building
was erected in 1892. It has a
a frontage of 162 feet to Lord
Edward-street, and is built in the
Elizabethan style of red brick
with buff terra-cotta facings, from
the design of Albert Murray. It

has a large Lecture-hall,
two School-rooms, a
Dining-hall, and Dor-
mitories for 60 boys.
There are four shops on
the ground floor.
Yachting: finds many
ardent supporters among
the residents of Kings-
town and Howth. The
most important clubs are
the Royal S. George's,
and the Royal Irish,
both of which have their
club-houses in Kings-
town. Dublin is a
paradise for the yachts-
men ; and the natural
beauty of this matchless
Bay is yet further en-
hanced when myriads of exquisite
yachts with their snowy sails skim
here and there over the dancing
waves like white-winged birds.
The Kingstown Regatta takes
place in August, and attracts
many of the best known racing
yachts from all parts of the world.
Zoological Gardens, The,

LION CUBS.

288

are beautifully situated (since 1830)
in the PHCENIX-PARK, and possess
a very fair collection of animals,
the lions being quite the finest to
lie seen in captivity. In lion-
breeding the Dublin Gardens have
been singularly successful ; many
of the lions now in other Zoologi-
cal Gardens
were born in
Dublin. A
visit ought to
be so timed
as to see the
animals fed
at 3 o'clock.

A band performs once a week
during the summer, and the lake-
walk, constructed to give relief
in one of the famine years, affords
an extremely picturesque promen-
ade. An interesting CROMLECH,
found at Knockmaroon, has been
re-erected within the Gardens, and
ought not to be
overlooked.
Admission,
is. ; Sunday,
2d. Annual
s u b s c r i p -
t ion for fa-
mily, i is.

THE END.

ADVERTISEMENTS. 2S9

"BELFAST HOUSE."

WALPOLE BROTHERS

(THE OLDEST HOUSE IN THE LINEN TRADE}
Being Manufacturers, supply the Public with the best

Hand Woven Irish Table Damask,

Either in BELFAST, DUBLIN, or LONDON,

At Lower Prices than the same quality can
be procured at elsewhere.

nnHElR designs are entirely different from those of any other maim
J_ facturer, and are to be had only from themselves at their different
Warerooms. Many of these designs, being purely Celtic, give a distinct
character to

Walpoles' Table Damask.

CAMBRIC HANDKERCHIEFS AT MANUFACTURERS' PRICES are a speciality.
They are kept in plain veined, and embroidered makes, and will
be found beautifully fine, soft, and durable.

IN WALPOLES' LADIES UNDERCLOTHING DEPARTMENT they keep em-
ployed a large number of the most skilled needle workers, and they
show the very latest styles in Trousseaux, etc., which they make
up to samples supplied, and at competitive prices.

8 & 9 Suffolk Street, Dublin,

16 Bedford -st., 89 New Bond-st.,

Belfast. London, W.

Waringstown, Co. Down.

290 ADVERTISEMENTS.

FORREST & SONS, LTD.,

SUfc flDercers, Costumier*, manufacturer*
of 3ri6b Xace

To Her Majesty the Queen, the Prince and Princess of
Wales, and the Irish Court.

101 GEAPTON STREET, DUBLIN.
34 PATRICK STREET, CORK.

DUBLIN WHISKEY!

CAN BE OBTAINED AT

THE SCOTCH HOUSE.

JAMES WEIR & CO

6 & 1 BURGH QUAY.

ADVERTISEMENTS. 291

39 PAEKGATE STEEET (Corner of Infirmary Ed.),
DU BLI N.

TTISITORS to Dublin will find many advantages by
staying at this quiet Home-like and Comfortable
Hotel, which is overlooking Phoenix Park. Three minutes
walk from Great Southern and Western Eailway Station
City and Lucan Trams start from door.

Hot and Cold Baths. Tariff Moderate

J. BOURKE, Proprietor.

ROBERT WHITE,

CEETIFIED PLUMBEE, SANITAEY AND
HYDEAULIC ENGINEEE,

Building, Plumbing, & General Contractor,

&c., &c. t
64 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin.

A large stock of the Newest and most

approved of material always in Hand.

All Orders executed with the utmost despatch and
on the most moderate terms.

292 ADVEKTISEMENTS.

alliance anb Bublin Consumers' (5as Co.

COOKING & HEATING BY GAS.

READINESS, CLEANLINESS COMFORT AND ECONOMY.

Gas Cookers and Heating Stoves

Hired by the Quarter at Moderate Rentals, or sold on
the Hire-Purchase System.

Bath Heaters & Gas Machine Washers

Sold on the Hire-Purchase System.

Gas Engines

On the Six Years' Hire-Purchase System.

A LARGE SELECTION OF THE MOST MODERN CAS APPLIANCES AT ALL
TIMES ON VIEW AT THE COMPANY'S

SHOW ROOMS, HAWKINS ST., DUBLIN.
alliance anb Dublin Consumers' (Sas Co,

CHEAP FUEL.

Coke at 11s. per chaldron

(CARRIAGE EXTRA).

OOIECIE
FOR DOMESTIC USE, HOTELS, SMITHIES, Ac.,
AT 18s- PER TON (carriage extra).

The above prices are subject to alteration at any time without notice.

Orders sent by Post to the Offices, as above, will receive
prompt attention.

ADVERTISEMENTS. 293

FLOWER AND M'DONALD,

DUBLIN AND BALBRIGGAN,

MANUFACTURERS OF
"PURE IRISH SEA SALT," "SNOW FLAKE" BUTTER SALT,"

"CRYSTALLISED BAKER'S SALT," "COARSE GRAIN CURING SALT,"

Also Direct Importers of
BEST HOUSE AND STEAM COALS.

HEAD OFFICE

14 D'OLIER STREET, DUBLIN, and
THE QUAY, BALBRIGGAN

Telegrams, "DONALD, DUBLIN." Telephone No. 848.

6 LOWER ABBEY STREET, 6,

SUCHE & RUDD,

flftercbant {Tailors ant>

Outfitters,

6 LOWER ABBEY STREET, 6,
DUBLIN.

294 ADVERTISEMENTS.

ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS,

PHCENIX PARK.

rPHE natural beauty of these well-kept grounds is
unrivalled by those of any similar institution.
The Collection includes the most renowned
family of home-bred Lions in Europe, now in the
fifth generation, from the original pair purchased in
1855, since which time 180 cubs have been born in
the gardens.

SPLENDID NEW OUT-DOOR AVIARY.

INTERESTING VARIETIES OF WILD AND
DOMESTIC CATTLE.

Monkeys, including Chimpanzee, and

Urang-Utan, Bears, Elephants, Camels, &c.

PRICES OF ADMISSION

Week-days, 1 s. ; Saturdays, half price ; Sundays, 2d
Children always half price.

Schools, &c., at reduced rates.

ADVERTISEMENTS. 295

E. M. GOGGIN,

20a Nassau Street, DUBLIN,

Has the Finest and most Artistic Display of

IReal 3rfsb iJBog afe Ornaments anfc 5ewellerp t

Connemara Marble and Wicklow Spar Ornaments at Lowest Prices.

HIGHEST AWARD AT WORLD'S FAIR, CHICAGO.

MISS COCCIN, WHO WAS AT LADY ABERDEEN S IRISH VILLAGE,
PERSONALLY SUPERINTENDS.

Fac-simile of the Brian Boroihme Harp, which gained Prize at Chicago, on
view, together with Stocks of Jaunting Cars, Irish Crosses, Candle-
sticks, Inkstands, Blotters and Irish Potato Pots.

IRISH BOG OAK ORNAMENTS.

Hrttetic (Tannncjs from "Book of IRells"

AND OTHER ANCIENT STYLES,

MOST UNIQUE AND SUITABLE KOR

Birthday and Wedding Presents, Prizes, Christmas,
Easter and Souvenir Gifts, etc.

Over 1,000 Articles to choose from, varying from
6d. to 10 and upwards.

THE TRADE SUPPLIED.
BAZAARS LIBERALLY DEALT WITH.

E. O'LEARY & CO.,

NASSAU STREET, DUBLIN.

296 ADVERTISEMENTS.

TO H.F^H. THE JSKSSsfeS PRJNCE OF WALES.

@1TRELL
r^ ^ *

\OCHRANE'S
TableWateps.

51 Prize Medals

DUBLIN. BELFAST. LONDON.

ADVERTISEMENTS. 297

Grand Hotel, Greystones

(Three minutes' walk from station on the Dublin, Wicklow and
Wexford Railway)

STANDS in its own grounds, beautifully situated and within easy
access of the Glen of the Downs, Dargle, Powerscourt Waterfall, the
Sugar-loaf Mountains (1,681 feet above the level), and Bray. The
Directors have paid particular attention to the provision made for Cold,
Fresh, and Salt YVater Baths, and the Sea Bathing is excellent. The Hotel
contains fine Billiard Room and Smoking Room, also suites of Rooms for
families. The sanitary arrangements and ventilation are perfect. Tennis
Grounds attached, and Golf Links in connection with the Hotel. Good
Stabling.

For terms, which are moderate, apply to

THE MANAGER.

Cook's Hotel Coupons accepted.

Glendalough, Seven Churches,

COUNTY WICKLOW.

"THE ROYAL HOTEL" stands in its own grounds of twenty
acres, beautifully situated in the Vale of Glendalough, adjoining the far-
famed Seven Churches erected by St. Kevin in the sixth century, ten
minutes' walk from St. Kevin's Bed and Lakes.

Train service, four times daily to and from Dublin, Bray, and inter-
mediate stations to Rathdrum, where cars are always in attendance, and
from which Glendalough (eight miles) may be reached through the ex-
quisitely beautiful Vale of Clara, where flows the picturesque River Avon-
more, Good Trout Fishing in Lakes and district. Excellent Stabling,
Post Cars, Waggonettes, etc., supplied by the Hotel on the shortest notice.
Telegraph and Post Office, five minutes' walk from Hotel.

Tourists are recommended not to be misled by interested statements of
car drivers, ' itinerant" guides and others, but insist on being set down at
the " ROYAL HOTEL," which is the only one in the district.

The Hotel (under new management) has been recently renovated,
nervly furnished and refitted throughout. Visitors may rely on good
accommodation at fixed moderate charges.

For terms apply to the Manager.

Telegraphic Address " ROYAL HOTEL, CLENDALOUCH."

Cook's Coupons accepted.

29S ADVERTISEMENTS.

The Largest Bottlers of Stouts and Ales in Ireland.

JOHN BEBE^TCO.'S

For Excellent Quality and Condition. For Excellent Quality and Condition.

Celebrated Bottled Drinks,

18 THOMAS STREET, DUBLIN.

Pure and Unmixed. Gold Medal and Two Diplomas
irewers' and Distillers' Exhibition. Dublin, 1NO2.
NET CASH PRICES, DELIVERED IN CITY AND SUBURBS.

Per Gross. Per Gross.

Guinness's X Stout - - - 15s. Martlet, Amstel, and Royal

Guinness-* XV Slout - - 10s. Pllsciier Laver Beers - 34s. A 28.

.uiiui.->-> YX.X Invalid Stout 34s. Hop Bitlers. Is. Sd. per doz. - - 128.

Dinner Ales Is. Irish and Devonshire Cider - 2Os.

Bass' and Allsopp's Pale Ale 24s.

These Drinks are sent by rail or boat in 6-dozen patent cases (except XXX, which is in five's), on receipt
of Order with remittance covering Goods and Empties.

Cases OS. each, Bottles lei. per doz. Full amount refunded if returned, carriage paid, within two months
from date of purchase, or if orders be repeated will be credited against those going out Hotels, Restaurants,
Saloons, and Family Grocery Establishments supplied on favourable terms. Traders who usually do their
own bottlir-ff, but may from time to time run short, may always rely oil getting the Drinks in prime order
and fit for immediate use,

WHISKIES.

Per Gal. Strength Per Gal. Strength

about about

Bebe's No. 1 - - 18s. Hi u.p. Bebe's No. 4 - - 158. 2O u.p.

,.3 - - Its. 17 H.p. 5 - - 148. 22 u.p.

.. .,8 - Hi-. 18 U.p. .. .. S - ~ tit". 25 u.p.

Above are blends of Fine Old Irish, sent out in quantities of 2 Gallons and upwards, in Cases, Jars and Casks.

SPECIAL J. J. A S., 338. per Gallon.
Jameson's, Power's, Roe's, Ac., in Bond. Quotation* on application.

BRANDIES, GIN, &c.

Hennessy's. Sayers'. De Kuyper's. Hollands, Old Jamaica Rum. Foreign

Liqueurs, London Gin. Ac. Specially imported Cognac Brandy. 3s.

per Case. GuiKcr Wine, Oa.i Cordials, lOs.; Lime Juice, 13s. per doz.

CHAMPAGNES-Glesler, Ayala, Munim, Pommery, Ac., Ac.
Ports and Sherries - - 13s., 15s., 18s., 3Os., 348., to 48s. per dozen.

Clarets ^ ^ ^-^ lOs., 13s., 15s., 18s., to

Tens, Finest imported, Is. 3d., Is. 4d., Is. 8d., to 2s. Ol. per lb. Sugars, Crystalled, Moist
Coffee, Finest Fresh Ground - - - Is. lOd. Cubes, Lump for Preserves.

Cafe iii- Paris, Ac. At Lowest Market Rates.

Fine Cocoa Shell, 18s. d. per cwt. ; per lb., 3d. Finest Trinidad Shell, 33s. per cwt. ;

per lb. 4d. Jums, Jellii-s. Spices. Picklos Tinned Meats, Fruits, Ac.
JACOB A CO.'S and HUNTLEV A PALMER'S BISCUITS and RICH CAKKS.

Telephone No. 508. Telegrams-" BEBE, DUBLIN."

ADVERTISEMENTS.

299

THIS

EQUITABLE LIFE ASSURANCE SOCIETY

OF THE

UNITED STATES.

"PREMIER LIFE OFFICE OF THE WORLD."

The Tontine Policies of the Society afford
Admirable Provision for the

NEW DEATH DUTIES. ^^ ^Cj

Everything Freshest in ^ <*** - ^

ft**

Life Assurance.

FINANCIAL STANDING.

Assets over 38,500,000
Surplus over 7,700,000

The U.S. Equitable's Free Tontine Policy is the
simplest and best Life Assurance contract known.
Study its Provisions.

I>8 i;iJ\ OFFICE:

CITY CHAMBERS, DAME STREET.

Manager: H. HARRISON.

Chief Office for Great Britain and Ireland:

81 CHEAPSIDE, LONDON, E.G.

A. MUNKITTRICK and W. TRIGGS, General Manager*.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

Special appointment.

HODGINS & CO, LTD

To H.I.M. The Empress of India and successive Lords Lieutenant since 1841,

46 WILLIAM ST. & 82 AUNGIER ST.

[Copy.] ISLAND BEIDGE BARRACK, DUBLIN.

CHIEF SECRETARY'S LODGE, May 23rd, 1895,

Messrs. HODGINS & Co. have supplied me with Meat since January last,
and I have found them attentive and obliging, and the various supplies
good and of reasonable price.

(Signed), H. TOMKINSON,

Lieut. -Colonel; Royal Dragoons.

THE N EW

(FIRST CLASS)

COMMERCIAL AND FAMILY

SOUTH GREAT GEORGE'S STREET,

D _U B_L IN.

XHIS NEW COMMERCIAL AND FAMILY HOTEL has been fitted up
with all the latest Sanitary Improvements, and Furnished throughout in
: best style for the comfort and convenience of Travellers,

LARGE COMMERCIAL ROOM, LADIES' DINING AND SITTING

ROOMS, BILLIARD ROOM, WRITING AND SMOKING ROOMS,

AND SEVERAL LARGE STOCK ROOMS,

ELECTRIC LIGHT.

Tilt position is one of the molt Central in DublinTram Cars passing the Doors to all
parts of the City.

E K. MAYHEW, Manager-

ADVERTISEMENTS.

Telegraphic Address- Telephone No. 217.

"THORNTON, DUBLIN."

$ Special Warrant.

J. THORNTON,

Fruit Merchant and Florist

1bis TRogal Tbigbness tbe prince of Males,
Ibis Excellency tbe Xoro ^Lieutenant,

AND THE

OFFICERS' MESSES OF THE REGIMEHTS III IRELAND,

63 GRAFTON STREET,

DUBLIN.

Cut Flowers and

WF* Table Decorations,

The only Fruit Merchant in Ireland warranted to supply
H.R.H. The Prince of Wales.

Grea

Lakes
Queen

THE BE

forTwc

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via
and

Spenc

Tickets, including Hotel Accommodation, and Excursions in iLiiiurnKy, tun

be had from Cook &* Son, and Gaze &* Son.
Luncheon Baskets supplied at the principal stations.
Comfortable Carriages. Fast travel.

For full particulars of tours and arrangements, see Tourist Programme,
and Illustrated Guides, sent post free, or apply to the SUPERINTENDENT OF
THE LINE, Kingsbridge, or to Messrs. COOK & SON, or Messrs. GAZE & SON.
R. G. COLHOUN, Traffic Manager

A 000028340 8

ADVERTISEMENTS.

TOWN AND COUNTRY HOUSES

Inspected and Tenders furnished, free of charge, for

Painting, Decorating & Repairing Throughout

THOMAS ^r^f^U I_9K_ I <*vno CO.,

DOCKRELL. 8011 ^

GREAT .KOIU.I: s 81

DUBLIN.

: THE :

DUN DRUM ,coD Ublin) ,

(GEO. B. EDMONDSON, Manager.)

Excels all others. *i&S*.

Branch Office : 13 Castle Market, South City Markets.

Telephone No, 1107.

Fish ! Game ! Poultry

12 WILLIAM ST. 7 OUGGAN TER., RATHMINES

22 UP BACGOT ST 103 UP GEORGE'S ST

27 GEORGES ST. KINGSTOWN

69 UP. SACKVILLE ST 25 MAIN ST
BRAY

***!

Warrant

to li^.lA.jD. ^Jtinct
THE SSSak 3 -

First-Class Houses.

(" Vide Dnblln Papers ")-" The different Establishments of this famous Firm are on*
of the sights of Dublin, crowded as they always are with the choicest description of Flab,
Game, Poultry nowhere can the Public be aa well served."