TOURISTS & CITIZEN. y E .MAC DOWEL COSGRAVE, M.D. AND LEONARD R.STRANGWAYS,M.A STEAMSHIP TICKETS TO ANY PORT BY ANY LINE. RAILWAY, COACH AND STEAMER TICKETS Through & from Ireland /O4 RELAND ALL PARTS FOREIGN BANKING RAFTS& CIRCULAR NOTES ISSUED /Chief Office : Ludgate Circus, London DUBLIN. THE GRESHAM 0=0 t^^^^^^ TY /^\ nn if? T 5 One of the Largest and I 1 I |-( Best Appointed in Ireland, f 1x7 I Vf 1 J J^- ^ ^ ^, , ^ v ^j -w-^j-' i^J "-(^w VBJ \*4 ^^ ^V ^^^^^ ^V -^Vi r4 -^ii_^^ DINING, READING, SMOKING AND BILLIARD ROOMS ON GROUND FLOOR. FIRST-CLASS CUISINE. TABLE D'HOTE EVERY EVENING. ELECTRIC LIGHT. MODERATE FIXED TARIFF. OLDEST HOTEL. BRAY. ESTABLISHED 1791. * TIJE ROY^L * CO. WICKLOW. T. CAMPBELL, Proprietor. CONNEMARA, ACHILL & WEST OF IRELAND. CIRCULAR TOURS from Dublin, Broadstone Station, to the Tourist, Angling and Shooting Resorts in the West of Ireland. Reduced Fares for Parties of Two to Four Passengers. Extra Coupons issued for extended Tours from Dublin, Broadstone Terminus, to the North and South of Ireland. TOURIST TICKETS from the Principal Towns in England and Scotland for Connemara, or Combined Tour including Killarney. Issued at the Offices of the Railway and Steam Packet Companies and Tourist Agencies. RETURN FARES FROM DUBLIN. NUMBER OF PASSENGERS. *. The Tickets are available for ;=: ~ Two months, and are extended ou payment of a percentage. lit | tod i 3rd Class ClaMjClaw Class Class Class I THREE I I 1st I *nd | 3rd 1st | ; Class ! Class!ciass!dass ! ( _ 42 01 30 Ol 89 78 6 58 0:128 61113 6 86 0^164 0146 01113 Connemara and Achill New Tour ..| 53 6| 46 6 33 99 9 86 6 63 4,143 9 125 01 93 9<183 0;160 6 122 i ~B 153 121 192 0:152 Ol t and the West of Ireland 47 6| 42 0| 30 89 86 6 Connemara and the North of Ireland] 60 Con Public Cars ran during the Season, passing through Oughterard, Recess (for Glenda- lough), Clifden, Letterfrack (for Renvyle), and Leenane. Steamers ply on Galway Bay. The M. G. W. R. Co.'s Oil Illustrated Handbook to the West of Ireland contains 16 full-paged toned Lithographs and numerous Woodcuts. Application for Time Tables, Tourist Programmes, and Information as to Fares, Routes, Hotels, &c.. nay be made to the Company's Agents, Mr. H. G. Callan, 60 Castle Street, Liverpool, and Mr. 3. F. Ritson, 178 Buchanan Street, Glassow, or to the undersigned. JOSEPH TATLOW, Manager, BBOADSTOSE STATIOX, DUBLI.V. Midland Great Western Railway, ADVERTISEMENTS. Dnblin, Wicklow and Wexford Railway. CHEAP TOURS IN THE COUNTIES OP WICKL0W INCLUDING THE MAGNIFICENT SCENERY Glendalough Powerscourt Waterfall, Devil's Glen, The Darkle, Vale of Ovoca, Wooden Bridge, i^ Etc., etc. FOR FULL PARTICULARS, SEE THE COMPANY'S ANNOUNCEMENTS. f ** f 1 ^**! ^a^ *ak. *mf r^= s> BEAUTIFULLY ILLUSTRATED, Price 6d. HARCOURT STREET TERMINUS, DAVID J. STEWART, DUBLIN, \#h May, 1895. Traffic Manage* THE DICTIONARY OF DUBLIN IRISH MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. PIM BROTHERS & CO., MANUFACTURERS OF IRISH POPLINS AND LINENS, Table Linen, Irish Laces, Balbriggan Hosiery. MEDALS: Dublin, 1850 New York. 1852 London, 1862 Paris, 1867 London, 1851 Paris, 1855 Dublin. 1865 Vienna, 1878 Dublin, 1872 Oporto, 1866 RETAIL WAREHOUSE: PIM BROTHERS, Ltd., SOUTH GREAT GEORGE'S STREET P. B. & Co. have been awarded Prize Medals for Excellence of Manufacture of their Poplins wherever exhibited. THE DICTIONARY OF DUBLIN Being a Comprehensive Guide to the City and its Neighbourhood BY E. MAcDOWEL COSGRAVE, M.D., DUB. UNIV., F.R. C.P.I. Member of Council, Photographic Society of Ireland AND LEONARD R. STRANGWAYS, M.A. Ex-Sch. and Senior Moderator, Dub. Univ. ; Vice-President, Photographic Society of Ire/and ILLUSTRATED BY NUMEROUS PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN BY 'THE AUTHORS DUBLIN: SEALY, BRYERS & WALKER I A. T. & C. L.) 94, 95 AND 96 MIDDLE ABBEY STREET LONDON : SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KENT & CO., LTD. 1895 EXAMINATION HALL, TRINITY COLLEGE. PREFACE. IHE " DICTIONARY OF DUBLIN " consists of Two Parts. The first gives the informa- tion required by all visitors ; the second, a Dictionary proper, gives fuller particulars on subjects of special interest ; a system of cross references, making it easy to consult either section as desired. By this means a visitor making a short stay is not overburdened with details, and yet can at any moment get the fullest information upon anything which specially attracts him. To the resident or to the visitor bent on thoroughly investigating the city and its environs, it is hoped the book will prove an ample guide. In the first edition of a book, containing so much material in a small space, complete freedom from fault can hardly be expected. The authors will be obliged to any reader who points out errors or VI . .. omissions in order that such may be corrected in future editions. The authors are responsible for the reproductions from photographs, but not for the woodcuts introduced by the publishers. NOTE. In Part I. words in heavy-faced type are the subject of special articles in Part II. In Part II. cross references to other articles are given by printing the subjects of such in capitals. June, 1895. PART I. CHAP. I. ACCESS TO DUBLIN II. IN DUBLIN III. HISTORIC DUBLIN iv. FIRST DAY'S WALK THRO' THE CITY v. SECOND DAY'S WALK THRO' THE CITY VI. DUBLIN FROM A TRAMCAR VII. TRIPS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF DUBLIN VIII. BOOKS, VIEWS AND MAPS - PART II. CHAP. PAGE I 5 12 39 55 7* 88 THE DICTIONARY OF DUBLIN, PART I. Access to Dublin. ,N the so-called good old times, and not so very /< long ago, the voyage to Ireland was a matter needing much consideration [Mail Boats*] ; but the fine boats of the L. & N. W. Railway Co. and of the City of Dublin Steam Packet Co. have changed all that, and the actual sea journey occupies now only some three to four hours. The Z. c^ N. W. R. boats run between Holy- head and Dublin (North Wall) twice daily in connection with Express trains to and from London. There is also a slower service daily, but it is not so popular. The City of Dublin boats, which carry the Mails, run to Kingstown Pier, * Heavy type is used to direct the reader's attention to the longer articles on special subjects in Part II. from which the pas- senger takes the boat train to Westland-row Station a run of a quarter of an hour. Tickets issued for the Mail boat are available without extra charge for the North Wall Steamers, but holders of tickets for the North Wall route must pay 25. on the ist Class and 33. on the 2nd Class Tickets for the privilege of travelling by the Kingstown boats. This is often a matter of great convenience, as the hours of starting differ considerably. The traveller can secure a bed on board, and may occupy his berth over night for the morning boats. The City of Dublin Co. runs a tidal service between Dublin and Liverpool with excellent boats, and the Dublin and Glasgow Co. and the Laird Line combine to give a daily service to and from Greenock and Glasgow. The time occupied in the passage is roughly 15 hours. Passengers from the Southern parts of England will find good accommodation and a very enjoyable trip of 2 1 hours or so by taking the Bristol Steam Navigation Co. boats, sailing from Bristol on Tuesdays, and from Dublin on Fridays ; while those who really enjoy the sea can have an excellent trip from London direct to Dublin by the British and Irish Steam Packet C0.'s boats which run twice a week each way, calling at Plymouth, Falmouth, Southampton and Portsmouth. On the other hand many : --._ travellers, for whom the " up and down motion, which is caused by the treacherous ocean," has terrors unspeakable, will yet find it possible to visit Ireland with only one hour's open sea voyage by choosing the Larne and Stranraer Route. The steamers of all these Companies are excellently fitted ; but, as is only natural, the finest boats are those which run on the Express and Mail Services between Dublin and Holyhead. A table of fares by each of the above-mentioned routes will be found among the advertisements. Whichever method the visitor may adopt of reaching our city, he should on no account miss the view of the noble Bay of Dublin as the vessel approaches its destination. To one whose first view of Dublin Bay is in the early morn of a bright summer day, the sight will be long a cherished memory. On the right is the bold Hill of Howth with the Bailey Lighthouse crowning a precipitous crag. Beyond it lies the little island of Ireland's Eye, and in the background Lambay. On the left rises Bray Head, an abrupt promontory. Further away rise the famed Dublin hills, and in the background the violet hills of far-famed Wicklow. Soon Dalkey and Killiney are passed on our left, and almost at once Kingstown Harbour is reached. If we are not to land there we shall have more time to admire the beautiful panorama spread before us, as our steamer slowly cleaves its way up the Liffey. So glorious is the picture, so exquisite the tints of the distant hills and valleys that the visitor will not wonder at the fond- ness and pride with which all Irishmen regard what one of our poets calls a "match- less wonder of a bay." On reaching the quays, the stranger will at once be struck with the un- usual accent of the natives; but the dan- gers, so merrily de- scribed in many authors, of being torn to pieces by rival jarveys are a thing of the past. The Irish car is a marvel to the stranger who feels a distinct element of adventure in the drive on such a vehicle with a jarvey whose object appears to be to run as close as he possibly can to everything without absolutely running into it. The cars are, howeve^ quite safe, and the carmen often most amusing guides as well as most accomplished whips. We leave our visitor with every confidence that he will safely reach his hotel. CHAPTER II. In Dublin. EFORE reaching Dublin it is well to arrange where to stay, especially in times of local ex- citement, such as " Horse Show Week," when accommodation is very hard to get. Lodgings in Dublin are sometimes clean and comfort- able, but this is not the rule, and hotels will be found more comfortable in every way. There are a few first-class hotels in Dublin, and many reasonably good ones. A great num- ber of combined hotel and boarding establishments have lately sprung up, in which economical and fairly comfortable quarters can be obtained. Particulars of the chief hotels will be found in our advertise- ment columns. Some few years ago the visitor who did not take his meals in his hotel fared badly, as Dublin was poorly supplied with restaurants ; having visited Mitchell's for lunch, the joys of Dublin were exhausted. Of late years there has been a great improvement in this respect, and Dublin is now well supplied with first-class restau- rants. Some of the hotels have lately opened their table d'hote dinners to non-residents. The pedestrian or cyclist who seeks re- freshment in the surrounding country will fare badly, as the neighbouring villages afford little prospect of entertainment, and unless the tourist hits upon some large place, such as Bray, Kingstown, or Howth, he will find it better to remain hungry. The clean cottages which abound in Wales, where tea can be obtained at a moderate cost, are almost unknown about Dublin. Some notable exceptions, such as that at the gate of the Dargle, show how highly such accommodation is valued. In other Chapters di- rections are given for sys- tematic walks through Dublin, and in the Dic- tionary the various sights, c.,are described in detail. It is only necessary here to give a brief sketch of what the visitor to Dublin can do. It is very easy to get about Dublin ; outside cars abound [Pares], and trams run frequently in all directions. An outside car is the best vehicle to use. It is light, quick, and cheap, and holds four easily, and another " on the well " at' a pinch. The driver is generally well stocked with miscellaneous information, and humour is not absent. The novice is advised to hold on when going round corners. Tramcars run through the principal streets and along the quays ; from the top good views can be obtained. Trams also run out into the suburbs ; a description of the routes is given in Chapter VI. Whilst Dublin is full of interest to those who care to study it, it is comparatively easily exhausted by the super- ficial visitor. The most important parts lie in an elongated block, crossing the river at O'Connell Bridge. This is bounded by S. Stephen' s-green at the south, and the Rotunda (at the head of Sackville-street) at the north ; Dame-street forms a detour to the west. In this district will be found the best streets for shopping, and consequently the best streets for seeing people; the finest commercial buildings and some of the finest public buildings, such as the Museums, Trinity College, Bank of Ireland, Royal Exchange, Christ Church Cathedral, Custom House, Pro- Cathedral, Post Office, and the Rotunda. S. Patrick's Cathedral and the Four Courts lie outside this district to the west. S. Stephen's-green is a noble city park, and its frequent seats afford a pleasant resting-place to the tired sight-seer. One of the finest views in Dublin is that from the bridge which crosses the lake. To the north the wide expanse of water leads the eye to the island and to the mimic cataract falling over jagged rocks ; above rises the classic fagade of the College of Surgeons. To the right is seen Grafton-street TOP Of UUAFTON STREET. and a noble row of Clubs, with a distant view of the cam- panile and other buildings of T. C. D. ; to the left the statue of George II., the fountains, and, in the distance, the granite front of the Catholic University, and the campanile of the Royal University. Behind the second lake are the Shel- bourne Hotel, many fine houses, and a number of fine trees. Grafton-street is the great shopping street of Dublin 41, College-green is the centre for banks and insurance com- panies, and it and Sackville-street contain the finest statues, and are the starting points of the tram system. College-green is an imposing space, triangular in shape, the apex passing into Dame-street. The base is the fine front of Trinity College. At one side is the Bank of Ireland (formerly the Parliament House), at the other a row of fine banks and commercial buildings. In the centre space are statues of Burke, Goldsmith, Grattan, and William III. Here is the terminus of those tram lines which run west. Grafton-street, Dame-street, and Westmoreland-street, the three chief thoroughfares opening out of College-green, are all full of handsome buildings. Westmoreland-street leads to O'Connell Bridge, from which another fine view of the city can be obtained. Looking back up Westmoreland-street, Trinity College and the noble portico of the old House of Lords are seen ; the latter stands boldly out to the street. More to the left is D'Olier-street ending in other buildings of Trinity College. Look- ing in the opposite direction the fine pro- portions of Sackville- street are appreciated. In the immediate fore- ground is the splendid memorial to O'Connell, further on the Gray Statue, Nelson's Pillar, and the portico of the Post Office. In the distance is the Rotunda, and the spire of S. George's Church. Up and down the river fine views are obtained, the Custom House (spoiled to some extent by the Loop Line) standing out clear and white when the wind is from the east ; the upper quays and Phoenix Park, showing best as the sun sinks to the west. But if the city is soon exhausted its suburbs are inexhaust- ible, and whether sea, mountain or rich pasture of emerald hue delights the eye, the treat can be had in abundance. The Phoenix Park is within reach of the tram lines, but can be better explored on an outside car, as can the Straw- berry Beds and many pretty bits at the north side. For more distant excursions the railways must be used. The railway stations of Dublin are : Westland-row and Harcourt-street , the termini of the Dublin, Wicklow, and Wexford Railway. The former line goes to Kingstown, and will be passed over by the traveller CUSTOM HOUSE, FROM O'CONNELL BRIDGE. arriving by the Holyhead mail. Both lines join at Bray ; so either can be used when starting to explore the County Wicklow. Kingsbridge, the terminus of the Great Southern and West- ern Railway, leading to Cork, Killarney, &c. Broadstone, the terminus of the Midland Great Western Railway, leading to Galway, Sligo, &c. Amiens- street, the terminus of the Great Northern Rail- way, leading to Belfast and the North. This is joined to Westland-row by the Loop Line. 10 There are also stations on the North Wall used in connection with the Cross-Channel steamboats. To Howth, at the north, and to Kingstown and Bray, at the south, trains are frequent and cheap. In the evenings the fares are still further reduced. Most of the County Wicklow is within reach of a day's excursion, but the more distant parts can be better seen by stay- ing for two or three days. Suggested excursions are given in Chapter VII., and the places are described in detail in Part II. THE DICTIONARY. Sundays in Dublin are fairly cheerful. The musical services in S. Patrick's and Christ Church Cathedrals are beautifully rendered ; the afternoon services are usually crowded. The services in the Castle Chapel and Trinity College are also attractive, but orders have to be obtained. The only church services that can be at all classed as " High" are those in S. Bartholomew's and All Saints', Grangegorman. High Mass in the Pro-Cathedral, S. Francis Xavier, and S. Andrew's draws large and fashionable congregations ; but, indeed, at most Catholic churches the at- tendance is large, and numbers may often be seen standing with uncovered heads outside the doors. On Sunday mornings the funerals en- liven the streets leading towards Prospect Cemetery. Forty, fifty, or more outside cars with from four to six or seven passen- gers on each often follow a single hearse, and as time goes on, so great is the anxiety to arrive before the gates are shut, that sometimes three funerals will race up Sackville-street abreast, each trying to be first to make the narrow of Cavendish-row. 11 On Sunday afternoons Dublin empties ; some go to the Phoenix Park, where the grass of the People's Gardens is thickly dotted with family groups ; strolling couples may be met further afield. The tram lines also carry crowds to Clontarf, Sandymount and the base of the Dublin moun- tains, and the railways leave thousands at Howth, Kings- town, and Bray. Week-day evening amusements in Dublin are not nume- rous. There is only one first-class theatre and one second- rate theatre. The latter is not always open. There is also one good Music Hall. The Leinster Hall accommodates large audiences for concerts, and the Rotunda Rooms and Antient Concert Rooms have smaller concerts, conjurers, &c., &c. In Summer Hengler's Circus is open in the Rotunda Gardens, and is a pleasant and favourite resort. The Shows organized by the Royal Dublin Society are always largely attended. The Museum all the year round and the Royal Hibernian Academy in Spring exhaust the public amusements, unless frequent Bazaars can be placed under this heading. CHAPTER III. present the reader with a full history of the ancient city of Dublin is beyond the scope of the present work ; but a brief sketch of the steps by which Dublin became the second city of the Empire will pro- bably be agreeable to "the stranger within our gates," who would lose much of the interest which his visit should afford him if he were left in ignorance of our past history. The earliest inhabitants and the first adventurers who entered the bay can no longer be de- termined, but the original foundation of the city is believed to have been as early as 2000 B.C., and our ances- tors, whether of Spanish or Scythian origin, as is sometimes suggested, have left to us, in relics of their skill in gold, silver, and bronze, such exquisite works of art as prove that Ireland can fairly claim in the world's early history a posi- tion far superior to that of the surrounding nations. The name of Dublin has been variously derived from Dun Eblana, " the fort of the cowslip," and from Duibhlinn, " the black pool." It is a remarkable fact that speakers of Irish in all remote parts of the country call the city even now Ath-cliath, with the prefix Bally, the whole being pro- nounced Blaa-clee " the town of the hurdle-ford." In the 13 early Christian era the history of the city presents few features of interest beyond its occupation by the Galls or foreigners. These constant invasions, however, inculcated a military training and a fondness for fighting which is still a characteristic of the inhabitants. In the fifth century St. Patrick of Armagh visited Dublin, which adopted Chris- tianity. The ninth century is noteworthy for repeated in- vasions by the Danes, possibly a different race from the former foreigners. These Danes varied the monotony of being defeated by the native Irish by inflicting serious re- verses upon the English, thus showing plainly how impor- tant a part Ireland, and Dublin in particular, was destined to play for weal or woe in the fortunes of the sister kingdom. The following century is occupied by the burnings and re- buildings of the city by one or other of the contending parties ; and in 1014 the famous Brian Boroihme [Bora] utterly routed and almost annihilated the Danes in the glorious battle of Clontarf, in which, however, king Brian was himself slain. Shortly afterwards Malachi burned and razed the city of Dublin to the ground. This eleventh cen- tury saw the building of CHRIST CHURCH and S. MICHAN'S CHURCH, which still remain. The power of the Danes was by this time thoroughly broken, and after repeated defeats during the first half of the twelfth century, they had so far forgotten their pristine valour that they became an easy prey to Strongbow, who in 1170 occupied the city. This inva- sion of Ireland by Englishmen under Strongbow was brought about by the expulsion of Dermod McMurrough, king of Leinster, at the hands of Roderick O'Connor, king of Ireland. McMurrough had run away with the wife of O'Rorke, Prince of Breffni. O'Connor espoused the cause of O'Rorke and advanced with him against McMurrough, who finding resistance impossible fled to Henry II. of England and tendered his alle- giance. The English monarch having obtained from Pope Adrian a Bull making over to him the lord- ship of Ireland, granted permission to McMurrough to enlist volunteers who would right under the English flag for the recovery of his lost sovereignty. The most important of these adventurers was Strongbow, who after considerable success in the south of Ireland advanced upon Dublin, and after a brief siege occupied the city. He married Eva, daughter of McMurrough. Strongbow was himself closely blockaded by Roderick O'Connor, and was on the point of evacuating Ireland with all his English followers, when Roderick, owing to some treachery on the part of his followers, was compelled to raise the siege and leave Dublin in the hands of the Saxons. Henry II. visited the city in 1172, and received the homage of the chieftains. In the following year he granted the city to the citizens of Bristol to colonize, confirming to them by charter all privileges which they possessed at Bristol. This charter is still to be seen in the CORPORATION RECORDS. Strongbow died in 1175, and in 1209, on Easter Monday, the new colonists who had gone out to make holi- day, at Cullenswood, were attacked and slain to the number of 500, the spot being to this day called the "Bloody Field," and the day " Black Monday." King John, in 1210, established law courts, and erected a mint, and in the same year Henry III., on his accession, granted " Magna Charta " to Dublin, and later on gave to the citizens the fee-farm of the city at a rental of 200 marks. In 1282, the greater part of the city near the Castle, including S. Werburgh's and a large portion of Christ Church was burned down. The pious citizens began to rebuild these sacred edifices, even before their own houses. In this century, also, the Castle was built, and the first bridge thrown over the Liffey. In 1315, 6,000 Scots, under Edward Bruce, were invited by the native Irish to assist them against the English garrison, and landed in Ulster ; but the men of Dublin showed so firm a front, that Bruce, who had reached Castleknock, withdrew without attacking 15 the city. A terrible famine in 1331, followed in 1348 by a sickness resembling cholera, reduced the city to dire straits. In 1486, Lambert Simnel was crowned in Christ Church ; but the annals of the city exhibit little save the usual attacks by the Irish on the English colony and the reprisals which followed. Repeatedly the power of the Church was called upon to aid the English, on the plea that Adrian, Pope of SPEED'S MAP OF DUBLIN, 1610. Rome, had, in 1172, alienated his Lordship of Ireland to Henry II. for a certain rent. The sixteenth century exhibits a monotonous st" ies of risings, including the famous rebellion in 1534 of 'Silken Thomas," son of the Earl of Kildare. In 1541, the title King of Ireland was assumed by Henry VIII. by Ad of the Irish Parliament. Of Tyrconnell, Tyrone and a host of others, who made matters lively for the English during the 16 second part of this century, we lack space to speak ; but in matters more particularly concerning the city itself we must mention the introduction of printing in 1550, the opening of Trinity College to students in 1593, and the introduction of the potato in 1578. After Lord Mountjoy's fiendish " final Conquest of Ireland " in 1600, Dublin was visited by the plague in 1604, and again in 1606 and 1607. Speed's well-known map, dated 1610, is of interest, and is here exhibited. The circuit of the city walls was then one mile. The ex- actions and confiscations of Strafford, 1633, were carried out with the deliberate intention of extinguishing every Irish trade and manufactures notably the woollen trade, which then flou- rished, so that Ireland might be dependent upon England. The insurrection of the Irish Septs in 1641 was crushed with cold-blooded ferocity, and was followed by unparalleled barbarities in the city itself. In 1649, Lord Ormond was defeated in the great battle of Bagotsrath, by the citizens of Dublin, and within a few days Cromwell landed. In nine months, Cromwell overran almost all Ireland, whose ruined keeps and dismantled castles still attest the horrors of the times. Indeed " The curse of Cromwell on you " is even yet used throughout the country as an impreca- tion. The world-famous Dean Swift was born in 1667. In 1689, James II. arrived and issued his brass money, to the nominal value of one-and-a-half million pounds. This money which was by proclamation made to pass as silver coinage, was coined out of old brass and gun metal ! The circulation, however, ceased after the battle of the Boyne, when William III., on July 5, 1690, entered Dublin. A Penal Code was now in- stituted in retaliation for *- 17 the cruelties perpetrated by the Jacobites on Protestants ; and it is in this period, chiefly, that the strong religious antipathies, which even yet distract Ire- land, had their origin. It is certainly true that many of the English colonists became Hiberniores ipsis Hibemicis ; but it cannot be denied that the plunderings, extortions, and the mur- dering of the old natives were due solely to a land hunger, and have ac- quired a religious colour, as it were accidentally, owing to the hypocritical cloak which some of the rulers, professedly Protestants, threw over their greed. The eighteenth century brought with it at least freedom from constant invasion, and the citizens had leisure to devote to the adornment of their city. The Royal Barracks (1704), the old Custom House (1707), the Parliament House (finished 1739), the Rotunda Lying-in Hospital (1751), the Royal Exchange (1769), the Blue Coat Hospital (1773), King's Inns (1776), present Custom House (1781), Four Courts (1786), together with many fine mansions, countless places of worship, and very many of our leading benevolent institutions were erected during this century, while the city advanced with amazing rapidity in every respect. The streets were widened, public lighting undertaken, the river embanked, banks established, and a General Post Office instituted. Many societies, both scientific and literary, were started, and the arts flourished. Then, too, means of inter- communication with the centre of the country were estab- lished by the fine canals an enterprise comparable with the modern magnificent railway lines. This was, indeed, the Golden Age of Dublin, which then possessed a resident nobility and a gentry warmly attached to their native land. The restrictions which hampered trade were removed, and an energetic body of traders, animated by a spirit of com- mercial enterprise, arose. The population, which in 1644 is stated to have been 8, 159, had risen in 177710 137,208, and in 180310169,528! The insurrection of May, 1798, led immediately to the Union with England (1801), and although it cannot but be a 18 source of deep regret that the mansions of our nobles are no longer occupied by their lordly owners, and that London has drawn to herself much of the best and brightest of our genius, for which a mock Court is poor consolation, still Dublin in spite of many difficulties has progressed within the present century in a remarkable degree. Her streets no longer 1!) exhibit that squalor .which earned for her the soubriquet " dirty Dublin." Even a Thackeray could find small mark for his satire in the fine thoroughfares which now adorn our city. We have still, alas ! the black mud, from which no amount of Paving and Cleansing Committees can protect us in rainy weather ; but if we have our full share of rain we have our recompense in a fine water supply, and if we have no manufactories to boast of we can content ourselves with the enjoy- ment of an air which is not smoke- laden, and a sky which is not always blurred with smuts. On the whole, given fair weather, no place can look brighter, livelier, or more lovely than the much-maligned City of Dublin, and its sample squares, noble public buildings, not to mention the sur- passing loveliness of its environs, fully entitle it to rank as the second city of the Empire. CHAPTER IV. First Day's Walk Through the City, [MAPS A. AND B.] HE Bank of Ireland and the University are such conspi- cuous objects in themselves, and are withal so interesting to the visitor, as well as so central in situation, that they have been adopted as our starting point for each day's walk. On the strangers first morning in Dublin he can do no better than direct his steps to " Old Trinity." Passing under the Archway he will see, in the octagon-shaped vestibule, the notice boards, on which are posted the examination returns ; and, if it be Term time, they will probably be surrounded by an eager throng of students in cap and gown, discussing the results, or awaiting fresh intelligence. The large quadrangle which is first entered, is 560 feet in length by 270 in breadth, and gives an immediate idea of that spaciousness which is, indeed, the main characteristic of the University buildings. In this vast square are the Chapel and the Examination Hall to the left and right hand respectively, while just beyond the Chapel stands the Dining Hall, with its great kitchens. From the pulpit in the Dining Hall the scholars of the house, of whom there are 70, pronounce in their turns the old graces Before and after Commons. The portico of the chapel, with four Roman Corinthian columns, is exactly similar to that of the Examination Hall, and both are from the design of Sir W. Chambers. After visiting these buildings the Library will attract attention. The present Library was first opened OLD BUILDINGS (BEFORE ALTERATIONS) AND LIBRARY, T.C-D. a .fg|Hil* 6 i! "5 rt t, 5 ^-n ~ ^2 T3 ^ &