g —n O I? '^Aa3AiNn3v\v ^«!/0dnV3JO-^ •^^OJIIVOJO'^ 'ER% ^vWSANCElfx^ ^^^.OFCALIFORi^ ^OfCAllFO/?^ soi^ %ji3AiNn-3WV^ ^6?AavaHii# ^OAMvaan-i^'^ 3.jo^ ^^mmy\^ AWE UNIVERSy/i v>:lOSANCElfx> 5 ^TiiaoNVSOl^ "^/^JlJAINn 3WV > f vvlOSANCElfXy. o %a3AINn-3WV ^UIBRARYO/C. <^UIBRARYOr 30 \^my^^ I vvlOSANCElfx^ %JI3AINn-3WV .^,OF•CALIF0% .^.OFCAllFORfc, ^ ^ aweunivers-//- 'Jr \ ^f'^ vVWSANCElfj> -n O -< ^lOSANCElfJy 0FCAllF0/?4> ^OFCALIF0%, %'A83A-Ninuv^ ^^^AavaaiH^"^ ^'OAUvaaii-^^'^ ^ dlFO/?^ ^^IIIBRARYQ^ ,;,OFCAllF0/?/(A. \W[yNIVEKS//i '>r /^ — "^ O ^^,!/ojnvDJO^ "^^jimsoi^ -^/saaAiNQJwv .5.MEIINIVERJ//) '^(9Aavaan# ^TiuoNVSOi^ \VVOSANGEl% -< %a3AiNn-3WV 6^ v>:lOSANCElfj-;>, ^UIBRARYQ^ "^AaaAiNa-awv ^vlOSANCElf% -^l-llBRARYG^^ -< ^AaiAiNH-iwv RARYOc WillBRARYQA •^ c ^OFCAllFO/?^ ^OFCALIFOP/f^ 'A. •^ .•5MEUNIVERy/^ .V^OSANCElfx>. ALL THE VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD, fBOK TRB FIRiX Bt MAGELLAN, IN 1580, TO THAT or FREYCINET IN 1 820 NOW FIRST COLLECTED, BY CAPT. SAMUEL PRiOtt NEW-YORK: ' WILLIAM H. COLYER, 5 HAGUE ST, 1848. 2J -7^- /f M CONTENTS Di/.e Page. Ferdinand Magchati 1519 27 Sir Tr mcis Diake 1577 36 6ir 1 homas Cavendish 1586 44 Oliver Van Noort 1598 51 Captain William Dampier 1683 57 Mr. Cowley 1683 93 fZ Captain Woodes Rogers 1708 98 iJ> Captain John Clipperton 1719 132 >_ Captain George Shelvock 1719 140 ^ Admiral Joris Spilbergen 1614 149 § Jacob Le Maire and Wilhelm Cornelisz Schout«a . . . 1615 154 ^ Admiral Jacob L'Heremite 1623 161 Admiral Jacob Roggewein 1721 165 Commodore George Anson 1740 168 ?*■ Commodore Byron 1764 183 ^ Captain Samuel Wallis 1766 191 g Captain Carteret 1766 200 ^ Mens. De Bougainville 1766 208 M. De Pages 1767 219 Captain James Cook 1768 228 g (Spcorid Voyage) 1772 248 ^ (Third Voyage) 1776 267 ■ > Captains Porliock and Dixon 1785 290 ^ M. De la Perouse 1785 298 ui Captain Edward Edwards 1790 816 - • Captain George Vancouver 1791 322 -J Captain Etienne Marchand 1790 346 Missionary Voyage 1796 353 Captain D'Enirecasteaui 1791 374 Mr. John TurnbuU 1800 378 Captain Krusenstern 1803 396 Captain Freycinet 1818 414 -■0 cr ''•^ ■'( PREFACE. An arMngement of all the voyages which have been made rounJ the AfOild, within the compass of a moderate-sized vohime, seems to be one if those wants which modern hterature hns been, for some years, called jpon to supply ; oflering, as it does, not merely much solid mformation, A'ith the greatest amusement, but because it is adapted to every age, sex ind condition in lifr. It is one of those never-failmg sources of plea- sure, which may claim a constant place on the parlour-table, in the school- room, and in the library ; which can never be taken up without instruction, .nor put down without regret ; which oflors the results of much skill and adventure, without the labours or dangers necessary to gain them by experience. Such a work elucidates several points which astronomy has taught ; it exemplifies to the student in geography much of what he has learned, stamping the conclusions of science and theory with the evidences of facts. For a familiar acquaintance with the people of distant countries, and with the figure and peculiarities of the earth, which voyages round the world tend so eminently to teach, are among the first offermgs of the practical navigator to the science which first taught him it was probable he might be enabled to sail round the globe he is destined to inhabit. The distinguishing characteristic of the human mind being an invincible spirit of inquiry, which disdains to rest satisfied with the simple impres- sions comm\inicated by the external senses, it was, in all probability, one of the first desires of the first men who tenanted the earth, to gam, not only a more intimate, but comprehensive acquaintance with its peculiar qualities and figure. To them it would naturally appear, as it does to the vulgar even of the present day, a vast plain, extending they know not where, fixed they know not how, diversified by various productions, studded with hill and dale, rock and sand, wood and water, but still essentially a plain. To conceive anything else, was, indeed, unlikely in the infancy of society. Art hHd not time to do much for it, and science nothing. Knowledge, we know, is but of slow growth, laboriously and scantily quarried from obscurity by human wit for human uses ; neither had men yet- congre- gated in those vast masses which, by the continual collision of individuals, at length elicit light and truth of every description. If society has occa- sioned some of our vices, it has also been the parent of most of our milder virtues, and of all our information. Man, had he been always Bolitary, had been always barbarous and ignorant. The sea was an object so truly wonderful in itself, its qualities and phenomena were so peculiar, its extent so boundless, and the difficulty of traversing or examining it so great in the early ages of mankind, that we may well conceive, while they wondered at its nature, they could form no idea of its uses. They could not imagine that its riches vied with those of the land ; that its contents ascended in the form of vapour, and again descended in showers to fertilize that land ; that it occupied much the larger portion of the globe they inhabited ; and that, in time, it was to form the best and speediest means of communication betwee« 1* vi KIEFACB. distant countries, and thus to become the parent of knowledge, commerce, and civilization. Its superfices, according to the best calculations, occupies 131,701,440 miles, or about two-thirds of that of the whole earth. Philosophers have long speculated about its probable depth, without arriving at any certain conclusion. Some suppose that its bed is not more below than the hills are above the general level of the earth, which, if true, would make it, at most, in particular spots, between five and six miles deep. Buifon considers that its bed is equally irregular with all other surfaces, which we have better opportunities for examining ; that there are num- berless depths and shallows ; that the greatest depths exist in the vicinity of the highest lands, and vice versa ; and that the medium dept+i of the whole ocean does not, in all probability, exceed one-fourth of a mile. To this there seems no solid objection. The inaccuracy of our knowledge on the point arises from the incompetency of our instruments for sound- ing, none having yet been invented likely to answer the purpose at any considerable distance from the surface of the sea, though one instance is recorded where it was sounded so far as a mile and sixty-six feet. The existence, however, of so many islands scattered in all the oceans, affords proof that the sea, far from increasing in depth as we recede from the shore, on the contrary, frequently shallows ; and that while some of these irregularities appear as islands above the surface of the water, there are others not so high, known to the navigator as shoals against which he has to guard. Added to these, there are many thousands more of still less elevation, which neither the eye nor the jeadand-line can reach, every practical sailor knowing that he cannot always depend upon the latter at a greater depth than lOd, or, perhaps, 150 fathoms, but most commonly not to much. Nor is there, in general, much attention paid to this subject except when in the immediate vicinity of land. As the mountains of the earth form its prominences, so the beds of the different oceans constitute its concavities, of which the largest is that of the Great Pacific, or South Sea, extending from the eastern shore of New Holland to the western coast of America, and occupying nearly one-half of our globe. The second in size is the Atlantic, connecting Europe with America ; the Indian Ocean forms the third : to these may be added the Arctic and Antarctic, tlie Mediterranean, Baltic, and other seas, forming together an amazing body of water. The circumference of the earth, according to geographers, does not exceed 24,912 miles. To sail over this seems an arduous uiideitaking ; but, in fact, to encom- pass it, a« ships usually do, on account of contiary winds, currents, and. occasional variations from the direct track, it is necessary for circumnavi- gators to traverse more than treble this space. The knowledge of the figure of the earth, by which it was first sup posed capable of being sailed round, has been gained solely from tho progressive improvements of astronomy. This science is supposed to Save made some proirress among the antediluvians, whose lives, according '0 Josephus, the Jewish historian, were purposely prolonged by Providence for its advancement. Noah communicated all that was known on the subject to the Chaldeans, by means of his immediate descendants. Th« Egyptians succeeded to all the scientific acquirements of these people , ind, according to some writers, first conjectured the earth to be spherical, Jome time previous to the era of Solomon, the Jewish ruler, by obser- nng the moon to fall into her shadow. This shrewdness of remark indi- tated considerable advancement in the science. It is remarkable, however, Aat by one of those strange revolutions in empires, which history fails PREFACE. Vil to record, and for which even tradition offers no explanation, this peopl* sunk from the summit of power and civilization to imbecility and bar- barism ; so that, in the time of Augustus of Rome, astronomy, aloncr with every other science, had become nearly extinct in that country. From Egypt, Thaies carried its general principles among the Greeks. Anaximander, however, seems early to have taught that the earth was spherical ; but Pythagoras, especially, was the first who formed clear views of the position and economy of all the heavenly bodiec. About 440 years before Christ, Philolaus, a celebrated follower of Pythagoras, endeavoured to prove that the earth revolved round the sun ; and, after him, Hicetas, of Syracuse, asserted its diurnal tnotion on its own axis The Remans seem to have done little in this science. The darkness of mind which peivaded all Europe after their fall, affected astronomy as well as every other species of knowledge ; disregarded in Europe, they took flight for a season into Arabia, where, amid the feats of arms and the enchantments of poetry and romance, ihey were zealously fostered by tbe caliphs, who were themselves not u -frequently among the most enlightened philosophers of their dominion*. Astronomy, more particu- larly, was in this way frequently honoured. The revival of letters produced a corre.inonding enlargement of science. Several eminent astronomers adorned uerrnany and Italy. But it was reserved for Christopher Columbus, who united much skill in this science to a true idea of the figure of the earth, and great experience as a prac- tical seaman, to propose to sail round, or rather across, it ; for, up to this lime, but one great ocean and one continent were supposed to constitute our globe. To this great man, therefore, the first idea of circumnaviga- tion, though not the full execution of the design, is justly due. He had upheld it with a constancy as surprising as it was for a long time hope- less, amid derision, neglect, and suspicion ; e.tposed, like all other bene- factors of mankind, to alternate insult and praise, to envy and injury, as if a fatality attended those destined to enlighten or exalt their species ; or Providence had ordained it as a drawback, in order to lessen a vanity that might otherwise prove inordinate. In 1513, Vasco Nunez de Bilboa discovering, for the first time, tho South Sea from the mountains of Panama, Ferdinand Magellan, a Portu- guese officer, formed the scheme of entering it, and thus going round the world ; for with the daily progress of discovery he had acquired clearer views of its practicability. He opened his plnns to the government, but in vain ; ministers in all countries being prone to suspect the motives of projects they do not properly appreciate or understand. Spain again, as in the instance of Columbus, was applied to, and with similar good effect. Charles the Fifth then wielded her sceptre, a prince whose talents, nearly as great as his ambition, aiming at adding the whole of the east to the finest part of Europe already in his possession, saw at once the national glory, if not wealth, which would redound from the enter- prise. He admitted the courageous projector to a formal interview, gave him, though a foreigner, the chief command in opposition to much native influence and prejudice, and by a liberality more frequently worthy of imitation, added the honour of knighthood for making an attempt which others would probably have awarded only to its successful accomplishment. The generosity of the emperor stimulated the zeal of the navigator, for no undertaking was ever more vigorously pursued or ably completed, though, uiifortunately, the adventurous leader did not live to reap th« wward of his courage, tiii PREFACE. The success of the enterprise fully settled the point of the rotundity of the globe. To this conclusion nearly all the philosophers of the ago had already arrived. But politicians were not so easily convinced : and one of the strongest objections to the attempt of Columbus, among the courtiers of Ferdinand and Isabella, was, that he would probably go so far as to be unable to return against the resistance offered by that very convexity which was to assist him in proceeding. They did not consider that the earth is so vast a mass as to answer every practical purpose of a plain ; and that it would be no more difficult to return from any particular point, than to go thither. The spirit which actuated the early circumnavigators will be more admired when we consider the great imperfections of navigation at that time. Of correct longitude scarcely aiiything was known. No depen- dance could be placed on the common reckoning in strange seas, where unknown and irregular currents drove them to and fro they knew not whither ; while lunar observations and chronometers, the only true guides of the mariner in our days, were utterly unknown. A meridian altitude of the sun, indeed, indicated their position north or south, but everything else was confided to Providence. Their vessels also were extremely small, clumsily built, poorly provision- ed, ill-fitted, on account of the backward slate of seamanship, and ill-pro- vided with stores to replace those destroyed in action or worn out by use. The loss of a mast, a topsail, or an anchor, were to them dangerous accidents ; while the unshipping of a rudder would probably have been followed by immediate destruction. In short, we should scarcely trust ourselves from Dover to (Jalais in vessels in which they successfully cir- cumnavigaed the globe. Few, at least, of our boldest adventurers would undertake such an expediton in vessels of thirty, fifty, or eighty tons, thus fitted, provided, and navigated, as did the companions of Drake and others of our ancient heroes. The only modem instance anything like this, is that of the lalo Captain Flinders, of the royal navy. Being wrecked on a sand-bank off the eastern shore of New Holland, he built a small vessel, less than our Gravesend boats, out of the wreck, in \vhich he proceeded to Port Jackson, intending to continue his route in her to England. Touching, however, at the Isle of France in his way, the de- sign appeared to the French so desperate and improbable that his story was not believed ; war had also taken place between the two countries, and though provided with the passport of Napoleon to guard against capture, was most cruelly and unjustly detained seven years in captivity as a spy. He did not, therefore, complete his voyage, which would have been half round the world, in the smallest vessel in which it has been attempted since the days of Drake ; it was called the Cumberland, and is still to be seen in the harbour of Port Louis, in Mauritius. Among the most trying difficulties with which the early voyagers had to contend, were the fears, superstitions, and insubordination of their seaTien. The latter, above all others, is the most arduous and appalling to a commander. Enemies may be repulsed, the elements cannot bo always adverse ; but against the mutinous spirit of our companions, those who are constantly by our side, by whose exertions alone we can proceed, and who have necessarily all the power in their own hands, what, in general, can the voice of a captain or an officer or two effect ? Even this serious obstacle was commonly overcome, sometimes by great pru- dence and management, and frequently, it must be confessed, by the sacrifice of human life. Magellan executed some of his companions, -REFACE- iX put a few to (Isath by less honourable means, and left others to drag out a miserable existence among the most wretched savages. Drake follow- ed the example. Seamen, no doubt, often rpquire strict discipline and superintendence. Want of education, and ignorance of settled habits of life, added to their ever-wandering mode of existence, occasionally inspire a restless- ness of character against which it is necessary lo guard, as it has some- times led to great excesses, and even to the most serious crimes. Fatigued by the monotony of their life, they desire a change ; and impatient of continual restraint, frequently seek among savages that freedom, happiness, and exemption from labour which they believe to exist only in such a community. It is thus that some of the South Sea islands contain hun- dreds of English sailors. It is also true, that, with fewer personal com- forts than any other class of men, their treatment by commanders is often unduly severe. Some degree of tyranny has always prevailed at sea in vessels of all nations ; nor was our own royal navy, till within these fev? years, exempted from the charge ; but, in truth, the skipper of a collier is quite as great a despot in his way as those of higher rank and pretension. Another so^irce of apprehension and difficulty to the early voyagers was the disposition with which they migi^it be received by the strange nations inhabiting the countries of which they were in search, as want of refreshments must continually bring them into contact. The know- ledge of human nature was then so limited as to give rise to the most extravagant conjectures concerning the inhabitants of this as well as of the other world. The majority of people believed in witches and conju- rers, in cunning dwarfs and monstrous giants, which the adventurers no doubt expected to see, as well as many other wonders in the nevir countries. It is remarkable that this idea was, in some measure, verified. For the first strange people they met with, the Patagonians, proved of extraordinary stature, though not, in fact, such giants as at first repre- sented. Added to these were the usual dangers, common to all seamen, of storms, shipwreck, famine, thirst, and the most horrible of all, from which there is no hope and no retreat, namely, the calamity of fire. When the variety and importance of all these difficulties are considered, our admiration of those brave men becomes as great as their views were grand, and their courage invincible. An interval of fifty-seven years elapsed from the expedition of Magel- lan, when Drake, who had served in the West Indies against the Spa- niards, struck out the novel scheme of cruising against them on the coasts of Chili and Peru, to which countries no English vessel had yet pene- trated, though a few adventurers had reached Panama, across the Isthmus of Darien. Besides, the prospect of gaining wealth from the enemies of his country, in itself an irresistible temptation, there was the farther honour, by returning round the Cape of Good Hope, of being the second circumnavigator. It is unnecessary to say this bold undertaking sue ceeded. Cavendish and others followed with equal success ; but Draka may justly be termed the father of the bucaniers of the South Sea. Of this celebrated association, which originated in the West Indies, and occasionally extended its operations to the Pacific Ocean, to the continual anxiety and terror of the Spaniards, it will be necessary to give somt account, as without it the following pages would be incomplete. The name bucanier, which originally signified one who dried or smoked flesh in the manner of the Indians, was given to the first French eettlers of St. Domingo, who hunted wild boars and cattle in order to sell the hides and flesh to their naore settled neighbours. They lived in K PREFACE. huts V ■•!« 's p-iKies of cleared ground, just sufficiently large to admit of dryirif, 'iw (-i^JM; These spots were named Boucans, and ihe huts, whic'a "O-o cx^rnenly only temporary, Ajoupas, terms borrowed from i.he nat T£ Jpi'ianr. Wiih the more regular Spanish settlers of the same .sland they wsre continually at war, and, therefore, concealment was in «ome degree necess.^ry, the motives of the Spaniards for this persecution oeing jealousy of the pifsence of all other Europeans. The tenants of the BiucanS; having neither women nor children, con- gregated in parties, eaci keeping a servant, who, being some recent adventurer from Europp, was obliged to bind himself for three years to an older bucanier in ord< r to gain a footing in the community ; more a companion, however, thatj a servant, the fruits of their labours were en- joyed in common ; and i.i cases of death, the domestic regularly suc- ceeded to the properly of his master. In process of time, some, tired of this occupation, settled rs planters in the little island of Tortuga, situated at a short distance from the north side of St. Doiningo, to whicl" they were by degrees driven by the repeated massacres of the Spaniards. Others commenced freebooters by sea, amply revenging upon that nation the injuries sustained by their companions on land. Success continually added to their confidence and to their numbers. They seldom, at first, acted together ; but in parties of from fifty to two hundred men each, embarked in small boats, ill adnpted either to war or security from the elements, and would attacii the largest vessels, overpowering them by a desperate bravery which nothing could withstand. Thus they fought their way to riches and power. Every additional prize afforded increased means of capturing others ; till at length the Spaniards, afraid of proceeding to sea. had their intercourse with the mother country nearly annihilated. Although their vengeance was directed against this, their wealthiest and bitterest enemy, other nations were not exempted from their depreda- tions. When distressed for men, money, or ships, almost every stranger became an enemy. Thus far they were pirates. The booty whs recrularly divided into as many shares as there were men. None hnd a preference. The leader of an enterprise, commonly elected only for the occasion, among the most distinguished for skill and courage, enjoyed more honours, but had no claim to greater emolmnenis than his associates, except what the general voice chose to award when an enterprise proved profitable, and had been ably conducted. No fixed laws gu>ded ihf-ir proceedings. These were made upon the spni of the occasion. But offences against the general good, such as peculation or treachery, were severely and summarily punished, either by death or by leaving the cul[)rit upon a desert island. Such was the certainty of punishment, or the sense of justice to each other, that few instances of this kind occurred. Their behaviour verified the adage of " Honesty among thieves ;" for though rolibers by profession, none were ever more equitable among theinselves. Every sjiare was chosen by lot. The wounded were provided for by a certain sum, and !\n allowance during cure. The companion or servant of a member killed, received his share. If he had none, it was transmitted to his relations ; or if these were unknown, given to the poor or to churches, to apologize for misdeeds neither repented of nor discontinued. They seldom went to sea except when in want of money, and, when gained, it was as quickly spent. Jamaica com'nonly formed the resort of the English, and St. Domingo of the French, where the fruits of their cruises being soon dissipated in noting and debauchery, necessity drove them to the same desperate undertakings for farther supplies. PREFACE. XJ These associations continued with but few intermijsions for nearly 15J years, peace or war in Europe being of no import in the eyes of theii leaders. The principal of these were Morgan, Samms, Wilner, Towley and others, among the English ; Montbar, L'Oionois, Grognier, Picard Le Sage, and Grammont, among the French ; Van Horn, a Dutchman and De Brisco, a Portuguese. Morgan, the most renowned of the English freebooters, after a varietj of minor exploits, conceived the bold project of subduing Porto Bello which he accomplished with great skill and no loss, gaining a large bootj from Its plunder and ransom. Panama, however, a large town situatei across the Isthmus of Darien, on the shore of the South Seas, promised still more wealth. Having reduced the Island of St Catharine's by a secret understanding with the Spanish governor, who wished to have tho honour, though not the danger, of resistmg the adventurers, he proceed ed to the mouth of the River Chagres, leadmg part of the way to hi» ultimaie destination. Here was a fort situated upon a rock ; agamst which beat the waves of the sea ; and defended by an officer and a garrison worthy of the trust committed to their courage. The bucaniers attacked it with desperaiion, and were as vigorously resisted, but this resistance only stimulated the energy of the men accustomed, not merely to expect, but almost to command, success. For some time the coutest continued doubtful, till a lucky shot killed the commander of the fort, while at the 8ame time it took fire, when the besieged, losing courage, surrendered. Morgan, leaving his vessels at anchor under a guard, proceeded ia Canoes up the river thirty-five miles, where, being no longer navigable, ne disembarked, and marched toward Panama, about thirty miles distant. On a plain, wiihout the town, a considerable army appeared drawn up to oppose his progress. This was no sooner attacked than dispersed. In the city, in boats, and in the neighbouring forests, were found vast trea- sures concealed in caves and cellars, the iuhabiiants having had time to retire themselves, but not lo carry off their wealth ; added to these were immense quantities of valuable articles of commerce, which, bcini' unable to remove, were, as well as the town, according to the barbarous practice of that age, set on fire by the adventurers, who regained their ships with a prodigious booty. Among the French, who distinguished themselves as much for cruelty as bravery, was Montbar, a native of Languedoc. He had in early life conceived a strong prejudice against the Spaniards, on account of their, cruelties to the Indians ; this spirit increasing with his years, he embark ed from Europe to join the bucaniers. In the passage out, a Spanisli vessel being met with, was attacked, boarded, and taken, Montbar lead-, ing the way to the decks of the enemy, along which be carried wounds and death, nothing being able to resist his dnsperate fury ; and when submission terminated the engagement, his only pleasure seemed to ba to contemplate, not the treasures of the ve.ssel, but the number of dead and dying Spaniards, against whom he .had vowed a deadly and eternal hatred. This inveterate enmity never subsided. His opponents suffer-, ed so much and so frequenily from it, during the whole of his life, that he acquired from them the name of the Exterminator. Another of the same nation, named L'Olonoi.^, from the situation of bondsman, had raised himself to the command of two boats and twenty- two men, wah which he was bold enough to attack, and fortunately enough to capture, a small Spanish frigate on the coast of Cuba. With this vessel he succeeded in taking four ships fitted out at Port-au-Prince to destroy him ; but cruelly threw their crews over-board, exceptinjj one 3tii T5.tTi.tt. man, sent back to the governor of the Havatinah, with a message thai all Spaniards who might fall into his hands, not excepting even his excel- lency himself, should experience a similar fate. At Tortugahe met with Michael de Basco, already celebrated for having taken a ship under the guns of Porto Bello, valued at £220,000, and a variety of other enterprises equally daring and profitable. Between them a new expedition was plan- ned, supported by 450 men ; in the bay of Venezuela they reduced a fort, sinking the guns, and cruelly putting the garrison of 2t)0 men to death. Re-embarking, they reached Maracaibo. built on the western shore of the lake of that name, a city which had acquired wealth by its trade in skins, cocoa, and tobacco The inhabitants, at the first alarm, fled with their principal effects ; enough, however, remained to keep the bucaniers in drunkenness and debauchery for some time ; in the mean- while works were thrown up to impede their progress, which they reduced at the expense of blood and labour, but without any profit. Maracaibo itself was ransomed ; Gibraltar, situated near the extremity of the lake, was burned, owing to the exasperation of the adventurers at missing the expected plunder ; and at length they retired laden with crosses, pic- tures, and bells, more than with wealth. Van Horn, in 1603, formed the design of an expedition, which promised a rich harvest to his followers. He himself was at once their admiration and terror, being not only remarkable for intrepidity but for punishing the smallest want of it in others, often going round the decks during the heat of an engagement, and instantly shooting those who, in the small- est degree, flinched from their guns. In other respects he was equitable and generous, sharing equally with his crew the produce of their courage, though sailing in a ship wholly his private property. To aid in the present scheme, he took Gramont, Godfrey, Jonqu6, and De Graff, all commanders of approved skill and courage, with 1200 men, the largest force which had yet been mustered, and in six vessels sailed for Vera Cruz. Night, and ignorance of the armament, favouring their design, the bucaniers landed eight miles from the town, entered it un- discovered, and, before day-break, secured the governor, forts, barracks, and all the soldiers capable of making opposition. The inhabitants sought refuge in the churches, at the doors of which were placed barrels of gun- powder, guarded by the invaders with lighted matches, m order to destroy the whole in case of insurrection or tumult. The work of pillage, in tha meantimfi, proceeded without interruption, nothing being left which it was possible or desirable to carry away. A proposal was likewise made to the imprisoned people, who had not tasted food for three days, to ran- som their lives and freedom for a sum of .£440,000. This, whether able or not, they were compelled to accede to, half the money being paid immediately, and the other half promised in a few days. Suddenly, how- ever, a large armed force appeared before the town, and a fleet of seven- teen ships from Europe before the port, which, though sufficient to inti- midate a regular army, if not to desert their plunder, had no other effect on the bucaniers than to induce thein to retreat quietly with 1500 slaves, as an indemnification for the remaining half of the expected ransom, and .0 push deliberately through the Spanish fleet, which, instead of inter- cepting, was itself happy to escape from such terrible assailants. For a long series of years these depredations continued. Scarcely a town escaped, except such as were situated very far in the interior ; forts and soldiers were of little use on the coast, for the former were soon reduced, and the latter, whenever they attempted a fair contest in th« field, always conquered. Toward the decline of this predatory warfai*, PREFACE. Xill Gramont embarked wiih a considerable force for Campeachy, and landintr without opposition, found 800 Spaniards drawn up to dispute the approach to the town, who were attacked, beaten, and pursued into it, with the invaders close behind, till stopped by the citadel. Against this all the cannon they could find was directed in vain. Fear, however, effected what force could not. The garrison, dreading the name of the buca- iiiers, evacuated the place during the night, leaving only an Englishman in it, (a gunner,) who, with the spirit of a soldier, disdained to desert that which he had sworn to defend, and which, it appeared, was capable of being obstinately defended ; and so highly did this principle of honour and courage operate upon the assailants, who were held together solely by the same feelings, that they received him with distinction, and reward- ed him, not only with praises and liberty, but likewise with wealth. For two months the conquerors kept possession of the city, searching not only every nook and corner in it for plunder, but the country for thirty or forty miles round, discovering what had been hidden in the e.»vth or in the woods, to the great loss of the inhabitants, who vainly believed they had, by this means, secured part of their property. The plunder, as soon as collected, was deposited on ship-board. The governor of the province kept the field with nearly 1000 men, but dared not interrupt men who seemed as desperate, wherever booty was to be procured, as they were insensible to danger and regardless of death. His refusal to ransom the city caused its immediate destruction by fire. The citadel, likewise, was levelled to the ground. A more extraordinary sacrifice on the part of the freebooters was a bonfire made of logwood, valued at £1,000,000 sterling, and forming part of the plunder, which, in celebrating the festival of St. Louis, on the anniversary of the French king, whose subjects they principally were, was given to the flames in the into.vication of folly rather than of loyalty. The last memorable attempt of the bucaniers, on a large scale, in this part of the world, took place in 1697, when 1200 men joined a squa- dron of seven ships from Europe, in order to attack the city of Cartha- gena. Their commander was named Pointis, a man of little honour or generosity, but intent on aggrandizing himself The enterprise was ar- duous ; the place the strongest in the new world ; the port difficult of apjwoach to enemies ; and, if not immediately reduced, the climate so bad that were the Spaniards even to do nothing more than to contrive delays, it would soon destroy the invaders. This, however, the latter knew. They therefore proceeded vigorously to work, seconded by that zeal ■accustomed to contend with, and to conquer next to impossibilities; of guns they had no want, and their men were prodigal of their blood ; each fought as if his individual honour and interest were at stake, which, in- deed, formed the life of these associations; and their good fortune, as usual, prevailing, the city yielded to their arms with a booty calculated at £1,7.')0,000. Of a great part of this they were deprived by the knavish rapacity of their commander. Exasperated at his tricks, a party proceeded toward his ship, determined to inflict summary punishment on the offender, but recollecting this could be of no immediate service, cried out, " Brethren, why should we pollute ourselves with the blood of this knave 1 He is unworthy the indignation of honourable men ! Let him live to be despised and hooted, rather than die lamented by any one who may hear of his fate, without knowing his crimes. Our share of the booty is still at Carthagena, and there alone must we look for it." it XlV Tk-ETAdt. Returnincr to the city, vhich was re-entered without opposition, the inhabitants were shut up in the churches till the sum of £320,000 should be paid the amount of the sum of which they believed themselves de- friiuded Possessed of this, they promised to retire without molestation to property or person ; without it they threatened the most frightful dcstruc liori to both. Unable, or unwiihng. to satisfy men whose wants were a. boundless as their conduct was daring and unprmcipled. the poor people knew not what to do. A venerable priest, at length, mounted the pulpit, to aid, by the force of religious elojuence, the exactions of that rapacity which' it 'was probably useless to refuse, and impossible to prevent, and which, if ungratified, would terminate in more terrible and destructive consequences. This appeal not producing the sum expected, the city was ordered to be plundered. Sated, at length, with rioting and plun- der ; with money, merchandize, and moveables of all kinds, they quitted this' unfortunate place; but soon afterward, falling in with an English and Dutch squadron then in alliance with Spain, were attacked and nearly destroyed, part being taken, part sunk, and part escaping to St. Domingo, a piece of due retributive justice for their extortionate and diegal deeds, which had now become, on many occasions, quite piratical, and unsanc- tioned by the practices of fair and honourable warfare. From this time bucaniering rapidly declined, the majority becoming settlers in the ditferent West Indian islands, to which they were induced by the European powers sending out ships-of-war to clear those seas and estabhsh perfect security in commerce, which had been, for a cen- tury, much interrupted, and, so far as regarded Spain, often, for year* together, quite destroyed. Those who persisted in illegal practices were executed as pirates; while others, more disposed to acquire wealth by honest means, received encouragement from the local governments in grants of land. The renewal of war with Spain occasionally drew forth some of the more turbulent spirits from their peaceful occupations, but the greater portion had acquired settled habits ; and, in time, the name of bucanier, as well as his practices, became gradually obliterated among all but the Spaniards, by whom they will never be forgotten. It must also be admitted, that these adventurers acted, in some mea- sure, from principle. Many conscientiously detested the Spanish people on account of real or alleged cruelties toward the Indians. In plun- dering them, they believed they were only despoiling robbers of that to which they had no legal claim ; and far from considering their actions as crimes, esteemed them not merely honourable but just. If the cruelties of Pizarro and Cortes have ever been avenged on their countrymen, it has, doubtless, been by the bucaniers. It is like- wise true that their practices fostered the nautical spirit of the age, and particularly of our own country, at a time when it was much wanted, and which has since been cultivated to such valour and renown. They encouraged the spirit of enterprise as well as of discovery ; they led the way to commerce ; they introduced wealth in shape of merchandize, as well as in specie ; they made sailors ; they improved the conslructioit and equipment of ships ; they fixed the attention of government on the best, and it may be sa'id natural defences of Britain ; they brought men of rank, of fortune, and of talent to sea, who, but for the inducement* held out by the hope of participating in Spanish wealth, would probably have left the naval profession to that humbler class of society to whom it had been hitherto confined, who, had they even possessed the am- bition, could not have enjoyed the means to raise it to that pitch of glory it has ever since retained. Our obligations to the bucaniers are, therefore, not inconsiderable. While these are admitted, let us not forget to condemn freebootincr practices, directed too often against every ai;e and sex, aaainst the in noceiit trader as well as guilty plunderer of the Indians, aganist friends as well as foes. Their system was fitted only for a ruder age, and na- turally expired with the occasion. It holds up to view much for out- wonder, but nothing for imitation. To elucidate still farther the following " voyages round the world," it may not be uninteresting to our readers, more particularly the younger part, to give some idea of the structure of the globe, the fonnation of some of the southern islands, with such additional remarks on their language, government, and manners, as may render their history and condition perfectly intelligible. Various theories have been given to the world, by learned men, on its probable origin and structure. To detail these is not our intention. The subject occupies many and large volumes, and is daily giving birth lo many more. M. Cuvier, of the French National Institute, and Dr. Knight, of Belfast, in Ireland, have very recently mude farther research- es on this intricate and uncertain subject, but, peihaps, without more general success than some of their predecessors. Public opinion is, And has been for some years, divided between the systems of Dr. James Hutton and Professor Werner, the latter of which is likewise called the jNeptunian theory, and of these a short account is nece.'^sary. Dr. Hutton supposes that by far the greater part of the bodies which compose our globe bear the marks of being composed of substances of much more ancient date, or in other words, that the present world is formed from the wrecks of a former. For the remains are so generally spread in nature, that no doubt the strata, which constitute the pre- sent continents, are merely new combinations of other strata infinitely older. The present rocks having all existed in the form of loose materials at the bottom of the sea, must have been consolidated and converted into stone by the operation of some very powerful and general agent. This agent he considers to be subterranean fire. The pressure of the super- incumbent ocean prevented the heat, however intense, from volatilizing those substances, which, under the lighter pressure of our atmosphere, it would have consumed. The same pressure, by keeping these sub- stances united, which on the surface of the earth are easily separated, would probably occasion fusion, which in our hottest furnaces produce only calcination. Another circumstance is, that the stratified rocks, instead of being horizontal, or nearly so, as they were no doubt originally, are now of all degrees of elevation even to the perpendicular, and those which were once at the bottom of the sea, are now raised many thousand feet above its surface. From this, as well as from the inflections, breakings, and separations of the various strata, it is deduced that they were raised by some great expansive power acting under them. This must be the vol- cano, or earthquake, but in a more violent degree than we have wit- nessed these phenomena. The very great disturbance of the strata cannot be traced to any other cause. A fourth consideration is, the great breaches among rocks, which, contrary to other divisions of nature, are filled up by materials quite different from those that surround them. These are what are called the veins. They include not only metallic substances, but whinstone, por- phyry, and granite. These are of posterior formation vO the s'lala Xvi PREFACE. which they intersect, and bear marks of the violence with which the3f have come into their place. The materials of all these veins have been meltefl by subterraneous heat, and while in a state of fusion, injected among the fissures and cavities of rocks already formed, but moved from their original place. All mineral bodies, it is likewise remarked by Dr. Hutton, are, with- out e.xcepiion, going fast to decay when exposed to the atmosphere. That from the mou°ntain to the sea-shore, from the softest clay to the hardest quartz, all are undergoing a separation of their parts, and carried down by rivers and depositions from the atmosphere, to be again de- posited in the sea. Thus far the outline of Hutton. Werner's geognosy, as he terms it, allows that a very rational theory of the exterior crust of the globe may be formed, but that is difficult or impracticable to gain any definite knowledge of the interior. It is certain, that some portion of it has been in a fluid state, from its being now in a spheroidal form. The crystalline figure of granite and other rocky substances, constituting the base of that part of the earth which we know, are sufl^cient proofs that they have been in a state of minute dissolution. The stratified appearance of the majority of mountains and rocks, evinces they are accumulations of precipitates or sediments de- posited one over another. The numerous remains of marine animals found imbedded in many rocks, and of which some species siill exist in our seas, render it highly probable, that this solution was aqueous ; that, in fact, a vast ocean once covered the globe to a considerable height. The inference is, that the exterior part of the globe has been entirely dissolved by the waters which surrounded it, and from this solution certain chemical precipitations took place, which have formed the crusts we now see. This view is supported by a variety of arguments and proofs drawn from the congeries of strata, each composed of a certain set of minerals, nearly the same in all parts of the world. These congeries Werner calls formations, divided into six classes, four of which are universal over the globe, and two partial, distinguished by appropriate names. This theory, the latest, most celebrated, and, on the whole, the clearest, is probably the most consonant to truth. Another subject always interesting to the navigator, is the flux and the reflux of the sea, and the cause of these phenomena. The theory of lunar attraction, adopted by Newton, was mentioned by Plutarch, and was taught through the middle and dark ages ; but as attraction, or a body acting where it is not, is an absurdity in terms, we shall introduce our readers to the more rational theory of Sir Richard Phillips, which proves that the tides are mere oscillations of ocean, and that these oscillations are caused by the motions of the earth and moon, and are necessary consequences of mutual action and reaction, without any le- gerdemain powers like that of attraction, repulsion, or gravitation. The tides, says Sir Richard Phillips,* are simple and palpable phe- nomena of motion. They are caused by the disturbance of the centre of the earth's motion ; and this disturbance is rendered apparent by the waters of the sea, because fluids, as fluids, can move from place to place, so as to restore any disturbed equilibrium. The solid parts of 'he earth may have a tendency to move, but the moving power, in this case, is great enough only to movd' the fluids ; and when the equilibrium ii i^stored by these, the force created by the disturbance ceases to act. ♦ Monthly Magazine, No. -34.5. PREFACE. XVII If the earth turned on a mathematical centre, (or axis,) and no cause ever disturbed the forces acting on each side of that centre, (or axis,) there would be no tides, or flux and reflux of the waters. But if the forces which revolve the earth were to act unequally on its sides, so as to have a tendency to vary the centre, then the waters, by their mobility, would restore the equilibrium as the disturbance took place, so that the disturbance would be simultaneously corrected, but the means of correction would, by the motions of the waters, produce what are called tides. If the earth were a smooth sphere, equally covered with water, equable and uniform motions would cause no tides. But if the earth were not a true homogeneous sphere, or had projecting parts on one side, or were denser on one side than on the other, then, as the momenta of the two sides, produced by a common force, must necessarily be equal, the side least dense, or having least matter, would perform a larger circuit than the other ; or, in other words, the centre of gyration and the mathematical centre would not be the same, and then the moveable fluids, because moveable and least dense, would rush to re- store the equilibrium. If, instead of a projecting side, we were to suppose a small globe to be annexed or joined to the earth, both revolving together on a common centre, or centre of their quantity of matter, then the centre of gyration would be considerably elevated toward that side, and the waters, in respecting that centre, would be impelled toward the annexed globe. Suppose, farther, that the annexed globe were separated from the other, and carried to a distance, their masses still revolving about a com- mon centre acting and reacting through a fixed or gaseous lever, it is evident that the former eflfect would not be diminished, and that the waters, in being able, by their mobility, to respect that centre of motion, would be impelled toward the separated globe.* Such are the circumstances of the earth and moon. They move round a common centre or fulcrum in the medium of space, the arms or dis- tances of the gaseous lever being in the inverse duplicate ratio of their distances and of their quantities of matter ; and the mundane fluids, as fluids, in respecting the centre of motion, rise toward the centre of mo- tion, or toward the fulcrum of their mutual revolution, which is always necessarily in the right line joining the centres of the earth and moon. But while this joint revolution of the earth and moon is performed round the fulcrum of the gaseous lever of space, the earth is turning on * The reader who is accustomed to consider space as a vacuum, because with his eye he does not see anything in space ; or he who has adopted the notion of a vacuum, because any matter in space might interfere with the necessary perpetuity of Newton's whimsical projectile force, may ask what connects the bodies when thus separated ? To this it may be replied, that the gaseous medium w hich fills space is as perfect a lever as a rod of iron or platiuA, though it propagates force to any point by a law sui generis, or diffu- sively as the reciprocal square of the distances ; and is more sensible and perfect than a fixed lever, in the exact proportion of its rarity — that is, the more rare the more sensible, and the more capable of propagating motion and force from one part of space to another. All the bodies in the universe are thus necessarily co.Tinected, and the connexion is formed by the gaseous medium filling space, which diflFuses or diverges all forces and motions in- versely as the squares of the distances, and directly as the quantities of mat- ter moving with equal velocity. Solid levers propagate force in right lines by propulsion, and fluid and gaseous ones in spheres by diffusion. f 3» XVlii PREFACE. its axis by a separate motion ; and as all parts of its surface are succes- sively presented to the moon, or to the common fulcrum, so the successive portions of water are elevated toward the moon or fulcrum ; and hence the phenomena arise which we call tides governed necessarily in suc- cessive rotations by the limes which the moon, or the common fulcrum, passes the meridian of any places. The fulcrum of the earth and moon is the point about which both re- volve, and is the centre of their reciprocal momenta. It necessarily lies in the line which joins the centres of the earth and moon ; and, being the centre of their joint momenta, is the point acted upon by the sun's impulses on the medium of space, in producing the orbicular motion ; and is, therefore, constantly in the earth's orbit ; while the centres of the earth and moon constantly revolve around it, by their mutual action and reaction on each other through the medium of space. The moveable fluids always accommodate themselves to the centre of gyration, which becomes their centre, without regard to the disposition of the fixed concrete masses, which they keep in mundane equilibrium : hence it is, that if a mountain on one side of a globe occasions the cen- tre of gyration to approach that mountain, the waters, in accommodating themselves to that centre, will accumulate about the mountain : hence, if another globe be annexed in contact, (suppose the moon in contact with the earth,) and the centre of gyration were then raised considerably toward that annexed globe, the waters, in respecting the circle of gyra- tion performed by both globes, would fill up the chasms between the curved surfaces of the two globes : and hence al.so, if the two globes, being separated and connected in motion only by a gaseous lever, (like the earth and moon in a medium of space,) still the centre or fulcrum of motion would, as a centre of gyration, govern the moving waters, and they would flow, or endeavour to flow, toward that fulcrum, and would even flow around it, if they were not restrained by a local rotatory force like that of the earth, and by a density of the fluid, sufficient to counter- act the tendency to ascend to the common centre of motion Suppose the earth to be turning on its axis, with the fulcrum vertical over the meridian of central Africa, where, as there is no sea, there will be no apparent tide-though the seas of the Antarctic Ocean would be Slightly affected. In an hour the rotation carries the shores of the At- lantic opposite the moon or fulcrum, and the waters beincr capable of rushing to restore the equilibrium, in consequence of the" disturbance already explained, they rise toward the fulcrum or centre of lunar and mundane gyration, and the elevation continues as the Atlantic nasse. under the moon or fulcrum. -^n-mic passei But when the Atlantic shores of America arrive opposite the moon or fulcrum, the waters rise on the coast, and fill the entrances of th^h ve,e when the continent is presented to the moon or fulcrum and thrn .« tide IS raised. Nevertheless, the waters were bmnahV .^'.k u 'i fuch as exists in the tide; of the ocean ^ ^ * o^illation PREFACE. Xix "We need not accompany the phenomena to the shoros of the Pacific, where the oscillations are less, because the liquid pendulum is larger and heavier — but where exactly the same causes produce a primary and secondary tide. In a v'ord, the second tide arises from the reactions of the first tide against the visible continents and invisible rocks which bound and fill the ocean ; and which reactions concur with the departure of the force over land 10 other meridians, so that a returning tide is a necessary conse- quence of a primary one. And in confiimation of this theory of the secondary tide, is it not notorious, that in certain parts of the South Pacific, where few or no disturbances are created by reflections of land, there is but one tide in tweniy-four hours 1 The other peculiarity of the tides — their neap and spring, depending on the relative positions of the sun, moon, and earth, are susceptible of explanation equally clear and simple. In the quarters, the line joming the centres of the earth and moon, coincides with the line of the earth's orbit, or with the direction of the earth's orbicular force ; and the tide is then produced solely by the revolution of the earth round the fulcrum of the earth and moon. But as soon as the moon departs in its orbit, toward the solar conjunction or opposition, from the line of the earth's orbit, the centre of the earth is also carried on the opposite side out of the line of its orbit, and the line of the rotatory and orbicular motions no longer coincide. This disturbance the waters are able to restore ; and herein is a new cause of tide, which, at the opposition and conjunctions, not only coincides with the direction of the lunar fulcrum, but becomes itself a maximum, because the earth's centre is then removed the farthest from the line of the orbicular force. Hence the spring-tides at the new and full moon ; and hence all the degrees of tide, as the centre of the earth and the line of the fulcrum approach the direction of the orbit. In fine, says this writer, I ascribe (1) the tides of the revoluton of the earth round the fulcrum, or centre of the momentum, of the earth and moor,, which fulcrum is always in the line which joins the centres of the earth and moon ; and as the moveable waters accumulate opposite that fulcrum, so they have the appearance of being attracted, as it is called, by the moon. I ascribe (2) the double tide in every twenty-four hours to the depar- ture of the force from the sea over the land, owing to the intervention ot the great continents which separate the two great oceans from each other. And, I ascribe (3) the variable heights of the tides, as apparently con- nected with the age of the moon, to the variable distance of the body of the earth from the line of its orbicular force, during its revolution round the lunar and mundane centre of motion. When the land, by whatever means, emerged from the mass of waters, large portions of the latter were still left in particular concavities by the order of Providence, for the wisest purposes ; for it is quite clear that were it not for this arrangement, there would be little or no communica- tion between the more distant parts of the world. No commerce could possibly exist ; the expenses of conveyance, added to obstructions of a thousand kinds, would be altogether insurmountable. Rivers, forests, deserts, mountains, and innumerable hostile nations, must necessarily in tervene, as we see every day on our continents, to interrupt the inter- course of distant portions of the globe, were even the fatigues, trouble, and expenses of a land-journey capable of being generally encountered. The greatest of these convenient media of communication is, as has be«n already alluded to, the great South Sea or Pacific Ocean, extending XX PREFACE- from the eastern shore of New Holland to the western coast of America, and from Cape Horn to Kamtschatka, a space of about 140 degrees of longitudt by 120 of latitude ! This vast body of water had other claims to consideration besides its extent. It was long the object of enterprise and adventure in the pursuits of fame and wealth; of inquiry for its supposed southern continent ; of curiosity as the means of circumnavi- gatino- the globe. It was the last great ocean which the skill of Euro- peans traversed, and of course possesses even to this moment much of the gloss of novelty. But it was more particularly remarkable for the incredible number of islands scattered over its enormous surface, not singly, or here and there, but in great and varied clusters. Many of these have been examined ; many hundreds of others are doubtless still unknowrk; for every ship that takes a new route, or remains any time here, adds daily to our knowledge. So extensive and populous i.ave been these additions to geographical science, that some skilful men propose two new divisions of the globe to the old number of four : New Holland, New Guinea, and some others in their vicinity to be named Australasia ; and all the rest Polynesia. The origin of many of these islands differs materially from those of Europe and from each other. "While several are as ancient as creation, others are only recently elevated above the water. While the support- ers of the two great theories each assign the operation of their favourite cause, a third, totally independent of either, must be added to account for many of the new formations. This is the action of certain small ma- rine animals, named Zoophites, which may be considered the ants of the ocean. Their industry, in fact, exceeds anything that can be conceived. The substance which they produce, or construct, is called madrepore, or bastard coral, sometimes in larger or smaller masses, or shaped like the branches of trees, and growing like them from stems. Nothing can be more beautifully arranged. Were the ocean for a moment to recede from its bed, this madrepore would be seen like an immense shrubbery, except that it is more regular on its summit, no part being higher than another. Where the tides operate such as on the shores of some of the islands, or between the smaller ones where the depth of water is not great, this singular spectacle is frequently seen. Laying their foundation at the bottom of the ocean, these animals continue working without in- termission, probably for many generations, before their fabric comes near the surface of the sea. B inks of coral are found at all depths and at all distances from the shore. Known at first as reefs and shoals, they soon become islands. They are frequently observed in all stages, some only beginning, others only half constructed, others again finished, or at least brought to the surface of the water ; several without vegetation having yet begun ; and many where soil has accumulated and this process is observed in its infancy. It is more difficult to conceive, however, how this madrepore, which is in itself brittle and branching, becomes converted into solid rock, but the solution is easy. As the fabric ascends, the interstices of this net- work—for such it appears — are filled up by sands from the continual washing of the sea. From the same cause, vast quantities of the coral itself are broken off from the outer parts of the bank, and the loose pieces, added to sea-weed, and the variety of extraneous substances always driven about by the sea, comes in aid of the sand, and in time fill up every cavity, rendering the whole that compact, solid mass required for the foundation of an island. The sand being most easily raised by the flux of the waves, becomes lodged at top. Here, when once absve the reach PREFACE. XXI ef the water, it soon forms a resting-place for birds. Their dung, feathers, and other matters, carried thither by accident, augment and enrich the soil, preparing it for the reception of roots, seeds, and branches thrown up by the sea, or brought thither by birds. The decomposition of these substances again tend to form a mould in which vegetation thrives. And that great treasure of the tropics, the cocoa-nut, which can remain long in the water without losing its vegetative power, having at length been thrown on such islands, gives birth to the tree which flourishes best in a sandy soil, and thus the naked coral-bank in time becomes the fruitful island, and the habitation of man. That such is the usual process em- ployed by nature, we have many proofs. One is, that the cocoa-nut tree 16 often found on such islands in a flourishing condition, when there is Bcarcely any other shrub to be seen. Captain Flinders, in his voyage to Terra Austrnlis, givea an interesting account of a coral reef on the southern const of New South Wales. Landing on it, and the water being clear round the margin, he distinctly perceived the various figures of wheat sheaves, mu-shrooms, stags' horns, cabbage leaves, and numberless others, tinged with a variety of colours, all exceedingly beautiful. The general hue, howe-er, is a dirty white. Several projecting masses, called negro heads, were lumps disjointed and standing higher than others, but blackened by exposure to weather; in these the forms of coral, with the admixture of shells, were clearly dis- tinguishable. The whole may well bear the name of slone-fungus. Many of these islands rise 200 or 300 frtthoms, or probably more, near- ly perpendicularly from the bottom of the ocean, the Zoophiles having an instinct to work directly upward. Yet it is remarkable, that when the surface of the water is attained, they can work no longer, or at least, if not partially covered by that element ; for out of it they soon die. Providence thus, as with everything else, points out the purposes of their existence ; they have certain duties to perform, and those once finished, they cease to have being. Where these islands are more shelving, it arises from the outer and upper, and of course newer, portions of coral being broken off by the action of storms from the outer edge, and wash- ed toward the centre of the structure. The islands of the Pacific, in addition to their formation and numbers, offer much for curiosity and remark in their population. This is pretty extensive, amounting in the whole, according to the best authorities, to 300,000 persons. The principal groups in which they exist, are the Pelew islands, the Ladrones, the Carolines, the Sandwich islands, the Marquesas, the Society islands, the Friendly islands, besides some hundreds cf others considerably smaller in extent, or detached. Whence they had their ori- gin, is a fruitful source of contest and conjecture among the learned, and is likely to continue so. The most probable supposition is from the con- tinent of America, in boats driven to sea by stress of weather, unable from want of nautical knowledge to regain that land of which they had lost sight, and thus exposed to the mercy of the wide ocean, drifting they knew not whither ; if fortunate enough to reach an island, there of course they would remain, and in time their posterity become a nation. That such really was the origin of these people is undoubted. Some of the bucaniers found boats thus bewildered off the coast of Peru. Le Maire, in 1616, met with a very capacious and sea-worthy double canoe, containing sixteen men and eight or nine women, who did not seem to know where they were, or whither they were going. If only one island was thus peopled, they would soon spread over the others in this ocean XXll PREFACE. by the same means. An instance of the fact occurred in Captain Cook's third voyage, and is related at length in our 371st page. Besides, it is well known to all acquainted with these islands, on what slight occasions they commit themselves to the mercy of the winds and waves ; if a weakei island be invaded by a stronger ; if two kings or chiefs quarrel so as to proceed to extremities ; or if the life of an individual be sought by a powerful enemy, it is common to resort to this desperate alternative for preservinn- it. Numbers of these certainly perish ; but others have been more fortunate in reaching spots where their progeny have multiplied. The best informed navigators agree in giving them a common origin. Differences in features, manners, customs, and language are no doubt frequently observed, but ih"^ general resemblance is sufficiently obvious ; and, after all, the variations are by no means so great as we met with among the various nations of the continent of Europe. Few traces remain of their American origin in point of language. Resemblances, however, have been traced by diligent inquirers, but even this forms a very trifling objection. Notiiing, it appears from experience, is more liable to change than language, not merely in barbarous and un- settled, but in polished tongues, as we know from the transformations experienced throughout those of Europe. The Latin, for instance, has given birth to the Italian, French, Spanish, and Portuguese, and some part of our own, all differing in every point from their source, yet the origin is undoubted. A considerable mixture of the Malay tongue is likewise said to prevail in most of the Polynesian islands. Their speech is in general soft, well modulated, of tolerable compass, abounding in vowels, and judging fr«m the facility with which it has been caught by our seamen, not difficult of being acquired. The pronunciation, however, often differs both in the names of things and places ; and, to obviate this defect, the missionaries, who have had the best mea4»s of becoming familiar with the subject, give the following rules : 1st. When a single vowel forms or closes a sylable, a is sounded as in father ; e as in equal ; o as in open ; u as in duty. 2dly. When two vowels come together, ae has the same sound as the adverb ay , ai is sounded as in fail ; au as in autumn ; ei has the sound of i long ; for which this improper dipthong has, from the first, been substituted in names that are now become loo familiar to be altered, as in Otaheite, Eimeo, Huaheine, &c. 00 is sounded as in the adverb too, for a similar reason ; ou as in ottr ; and oe has the same sound with oy in English words, as in joy, &c. All other combinations of vowels are to be pronounced, according to the preceding rules, in distinct syllables. 3dly. When any single vowel is followed, in the same syllable, by a consonant, it has its shortest sound, as in matter, gift, otter, upward. 4thly. Every consonant, single vowel, or dipthong, uniformly retains a distinct and appropriate sound, subject to the preceding rules. The letters w and 7/ are, therefore, used only as consonants ; g is always hard ; and th IS always sounded as in think. The e is never mute. Thus Otahexte is to be pronounced so as to rhyme with the adjective mighty. Sthly. That syllable on which the strongest emphasis is to be placei PREFACB. XXlU IS marked as a long syllable, (so Tongataboo, Ohittahoo,) when the words first occur ; but this distinction, agreeably to rule 4th, indicates no other change in the sound of the vowels over which it is placed. As the point of language is one of essential importance to those who may visit the South Seas, or to those who read for information, it may be necessary to state that their alphabet consist of only seventeen letters. With these, however, they express themselves with precision and facility. Their pronouns are remarkable, differing according to the number of persons spoken of ; we signifying two only ; wc two out of three in com- pany ; we an indefinite number — have each a distinct pronoun, sppcificaliy marking the person. A comparison of structure being, however, both more explanatory and useful, the following is added for general information : English. A chief. A man . A woman The head The hair The ear Otaheite. Earee . Taata . Ivahine Eupo . Roouzou Terrea . The forehead Erai The eyes The cheeks The nose . The mouth The chin . The arm . The finger The belly . The navel . Come hither Fish. . . A lol)stcr . Cocoa Mata . Paparea Ahew . Otou . Rema . Maneow . Oboo . Peto . Harromai Eyea . Toouza Taio Sweet potatoesCumala Yams Birds , . No . . . One . . . Two . . Three . . Four . . Five . . Six . . . Seven . . Eight . . Nine . . Ten . . The teeth . The wind . A thief . . To examine To sing Bad . . . Trees Tuphwhe Manuu . Ouze . Tahai . Rua . . Tozow . Hea . Rema . Ono Hetu . Warou . Heviv . Ahouzou Nihio . .Mattai . Teto . Mataitai Heiva . Eno . Ezaou . New Zealand. New Holland. New Guinea. Eareete Latieuo . Taata . . . Whahine . . Eupo . . . Maoauwe . . Terringa . • Ezai . . . Mata . . . Paparinga . . Ahewh . . . Hangartou . Ecouwai . Bama or MuUa Din . . . Wageegee Morye . . Melea . . Gaul-lo . Meul . . Fazzi Ea Nihouge Talingan Posson Azouga Marta Paring Nisson . Bonjoo Kan-ga Wal-lo . Hazingazingu Acol . . . Pong limaa . Maticaza . . Da-za-gallie . . Ateraboo . . Rar-zong . . Balang . A peto . . . Toolpoor . . . Harromai . . Cow-e . . . N\itifay . Heica Hissou . Roouza Cozze . Tazo . . , Mazacotu . , Lamas . Cumala . Tuphwhe : Oufi . Mannu Oufa . Raouza . . . Beall . . . Eay . Tahai Tika . Rua Roa . Tozow ........ Tola .Ha Fatta . Rema Lima . Ono Wamma . Etu Fita . Warou Wala . Iva Sivoa . Angahouzou ...... Sanga-foula , Hennihew" Ysang . Mehou . Amootoo . Mataketake . Eheara Adoua . Renou . . . Wee-re Ezatou Talil In addition to the preceding, which may be consulted for the sake of comparison by the curious and scientific, some additions are judged ne- cessary of important words, useful to the practical navigator in the supply of his wants, or for facilitating general intercourse with the native*. xxiv PREFACE. OTAHEITE. Booa Mn-i - - - - - A hog - - - A fowl Maa - - - - Inoo . - - - To eat To drink Euree - - - A do? Harre . - - - Togo Eure-eure - - - Iron Oozoo - - - - Bread-fruit Airea . - - - Ete To stay To understand Jiearee - - • - Cocoa-nuts Worride - - • To be angry Mia - - - - - Bananas Teparahi • - - To beat Eaee - - - "Wild plantains Roa - - • - Tall Mora - - - A duck Poto - - - - Short Mattow - - - - A fish-hook Waroido - - - To steal ]\low - - - A shark Nehenne - - - Sweet Toura - - - - A rope Mala-mala - - Bitter Eupea Miti - • - - A net Pia Full - - - Good Tiraahah - - - Heavy Pazores - - Hungry Mama - - - - Light NEW ZE ALAND. Eh aha - Fire Epono - - - To tell truth Ewy - • - - - Water Ewaka - - - A canoe Hedede - - . Hatred E-de-ding-ee - To sell Eora • - . - Health Eomi - - - - To gire Emattee - - - Sick, or dead Eka-ou - - - To swim EhufTe - - - Love Rake . - - - Satisfied Etete-do - - - To sec My-ty- - - - Good £raci-te - - - To taste Mackrowa - - Bad Eputa - - - - Sun-rise Ewy-you- - - Milk Eawa-lere - - - Noon Pah-hee - - - A ship Epo - - - - Sun-set Ewharre - - - A house He-kye . - - - To eat Ea-wha - - - A harbour Eeniie - - - - To drink Emoki - - - To work Ernarangi - - - North Ewhatu - - - Star Esow-how-oo-doo South Ematangee - - Wind Etonga - - - - East . E-hua- . - - Rain Etehu . . . . West Emmahane6 Hot Elaka - - - - To tell a 1 le I^akaradee - - Cold KING GEORGE'S SOUNE , N. W. Coast OF America. C.-iuts-hock - - Clothing Qua-quaaker- - The sea beavei Co-OS - - - - A man Qui-astzik - - A wolf's skin Elseet - - - - Fish Sloot's-rnan - - A woman Luk-sheet - - - Fresh water Tsi-kiminny - - Iron Maa-kook - - - Trade, or carter Sikets-sko - - A rope Nah-hcir - - . Give me Etts-auk - - - Wood Jah-putz - - - A canoe Kow-iltz - - - To steal E-oo-mer - - - To eat Jah-poaks - - Copper or bras» How-whilk - - A friend Nume rals of King George's Salamo n's Caroline Pelew Sound. Islam s. Islands. Islands. One . . . . Saw-wak . . laci . . . . Iota . . . Tong Two . . . Atla. . . . Loua . . . Rua . . . Oroo Three . . Catsa . . . Tolou . . . Toloo . . Olhey Four . . Mo . . . . Fa . . . . Tia . . . Gang Five . . Socha . . . Lima . . . Leema . . Aeem Six . . . Nopo . . , Houve . . . Honoo . . Malong Seven . . Atlapo . . Fito . . . . Fizoo . . Oweth Eight . . Atlaquash . Valo . . . Warrow . Tei Nine . . . Saw-aquash Ivvou . . . Heevo . . Etew Ten. . . High-ho , Ongefo jia . Segga . . MacJiQth PRBFACE. XXV Patagonia : pronunciation guttural. Calemi .... Young Her Head . Eye . Nose . Wolf . Goose . Fish . Oyster . To look Gialeme . Holi . . Aro . . Oni . . Ohone Mechiere . Ohomagse Terrecai . Theu . . HoU . . Irocoles . Fire Water Sea W'ind Hurricane To eat To fight Cloth Snow A dog To cook Oter . . . Or . . . Ani . . . Cache . . Hoi . . . Siameni Conne . . Hal To come Rei To go Capac .... Root used as bread The government of most of the South Sea islands is an hereditary monarchy, under whom are many inferior chiefs, independent, or nearly so, in their several districts, but all subject to the orders and power of the king. Rebellions, however, are frequent against his power, arising either from his oppression, or the ambition and power of some of the chiefs. The royal person is commonly held sacred in ordinary times. He has his peculiar attendants, his houses, his lands, his revenues, besides taking from others what he may think proper, for his will is the only guide for the amount of these forced contributions. In a period of war the chiefs are obliged to attend the king with all the fighting men of their districts ; with canoes, if there be any expedition to another island on foot ; and with supplies of arms and provisions. Sometimes refractory chiefs refuse to attend the king's summons, instances of which continually occur in all the islands; but it is only the very powerful that dare do this. The weaker are punished for their remissness. Next in rank to the chiefs are their younger brothers, tayos, or friends. These have the care of the more scattered possessions of their superiors, receive and make use of the products for themselves, on condition of oc- casionally entertaining the principal chief on his excursions, or when scarcity prevails at his usual residence. Added to these are others still lower in the scale of rank, down to the toutous, or servants, each of whom has some interest in the produce of the ground. The power of the chiefs extends also to the sea-side in preventing fishing in certain places except for his own use, but this power is seldom exercised except on vexv particular occasions. The lowest class perform all the labours requireu by the chief with seeming willingness, but their services are by no means constant. They are generally well treated ; and if they please, may change chiefs and districts at any time. Custom, not fear, is the reason of their respect and attachment. Thevare at all times admitted as com- panions rather than inferiors. A stranger can discover little external diflference between them. The king is in constant communion with the lowest of his subjects, and never treats them with the least distance or haughtiness of manner. It is remarkable, however, that with all this apparent equality, the difference of ranks is so substantial, that a low man can never, by any exercise of talents or bravery, become a principal chief; while the latter, for the same reason, though despoiled of his district and command, can never sink, in rank or respect, to an inferior condition. Any of the king's servants may serve him, and quit his service when they think proper, all they receive in return, being, indeed, the only wants known in such a life, are food and a cloth round their middle ; the climate requiring no o the inhabitants of which offered hogs as sacrifices to the sun, two aged matrons acting as priestesses, singing and dancing about the animal. and sounding a kind of trumpet made of reeds. After several prayers to MAGELLAN. 33 the sun, with antic gestures, one of the women struck the hog dead with a lance, and put a liglited lamp into its mouth, which continued burning during the ceremony. Their funeral ceremonies were likewise very curi- ous ; all the principal women sitting round the corpse of any chief, &c., five days successively, clothed in white cotton. The hair of the de- ceased person was cut off, after which the widow surig a merry fong, &c. The Island of Maihan being governed by two kings, and one of them refusing to pay tribute to the Kmg of Spain, Magellan prepared to reduce him. The king desired to be on good terms with the Spaniards, and had sent them a present of provisions. As to obedience, he would owe none to strangers, of whom he had never before heard. Magellan was accompanied by sixty Europeans, armed with coats of mail and helmets, and attended by the King of Lebu, with a runnberof his subjects in canoes. Confident in the superior courage and weapons of his men, Magellan declined the assistance of the king, and marched to some distance into the interior of the island. Here he was attacked by three distinct bodies of the islanders, in front and on each flank. Their united force amounted to upward of six thousand ; their arms were bows, arrows, darts, and javelins. The battle was for some time doubt- ful, till the admiral's impetuosity carrying him too far, he was wounded in the leg with a poisoned arrow, and his helmet being beaten off his head with stones, and being also wounded in the right arm, so that he could not use his sword, he was brought to the ground, then stabbed through the body with a spear, and a lance thrust into his head. Eight or nine of the Spaniards and fifteen of the Indians were also slain. The Spaniards would have redeemed the body of their commander, but the Indians refused to part with it. The King of Lebu, who had embraced the Christian faith, now re- nounced it, and, in concert with his late rival, the King of Mathan, laid a plan for the destruction of the Spaniards. Those of them who remained on shore were invited to an entertainment, where, during the repast, they were all murdered, except Don Juan Serrano, whom they kept, in hopes of getting a ransom for him ; this the Spaniards on board would readily have given, but they discovered so much prevarication in the behaviour of the King of Lebu, that, dreading the fate of their companions, they determined to put to sea. When Serrano saw them about to weigh anchor, he fell on his knees, imploring their interposition, in the most moving manner, that he might not be left among the savages ; but their fears, as their whole force amounted to only one hundred and fifteen men, made them deaf to his entreaties, and what became of him afterward was never known. New commanders were chosen from among the surviving officers, and as the ships were now in a very bad condition, it was found necessary to make use of one, the Conception, to repair the other two, into which the men, ammunition, and provisions, were transferred. This was at the Island of Bohoh One ^principal object of this expedition had been, to reach the Molucca islands by a westerly course from Europe. Before his death, Magellan had ascertained that they were not far from the Philippines, and his surviving companions now agreed to preceed in search of them. Sailing from Bohol, or Buhol, in N. lat. 9** 30', and steering to the S.W., they came to Ohipper, a large island about fifty leagues from Lu- but, in 8 deg. N. l&t., and 170 deg. W. longitude from their first setting out. The island abounded with rice, ginger, goats, hogs, &c. The king 34 VOYAGES RdUND tSE WORLb. received the Spaniards in a friendly manner, drawing the Wood from hia right arm and marking his body, face, and the tip of his tongue with it, in token of peace. In this ceremony he was followed by the Spaniard's. Here all the men, ammu.iiiion, and stores were landed, and about forty days were occupi'ed m repairing and refitting the ships. ^ Sailing W. and S.W. 40 leagues from hence, they came to Caghaiaftj a large island, but thinly inhabued, by Mahometans, a kind of exiles from Borneo, who had great quantities^of gold, and made use of pointed ar- rows. Hence they sailed lo Puloata, an island abourtding in figs, bata- tos, cocoas, and sugar canes. The people went naked, used poisoned arrows, and were greatly addicted to the cruel sport of cock-tighiing. Their chief drink was a kind of wine (arrack) made of rice, and which was found to be very intoxicating. From Puloan they came to the rich Island of Borneo, the chief city of which contained twenty thousand houses. The'ting, who was a Maho- metan, kept a magnificent court ; he sent two elephants adorned with silk to bring the Spanish messenger (with their presents) to his palace, and afterward h-e dismissed them with valuable presents. When his subjects approached the king, they lifted their hands close together three times over iheir heads, then lifted up each foot, and lastly kissed their hands. The island abounded in cattle, fowls, melons, cucumbers, sugar, lemons, oranges, miraholans, ginger, camphor, and rice ; of which last they mnke great quantities of arrack. From Borneo they sailed to Cimbuhon, where they were detained forty days in repairing their ships and taking in wood and water. Os- triches, hogs', and crocodiles were found here in great numbers, and they took a fish whose head resembled that of a hog, but with horns on it ; the body appeared to be an entire bone, and the back was shaped like a saddle. Bending their course hence to the S. E. for the Moluccas, they came to the islands of Solo T.aghJxBa, whence the King of Borneo had received two pearls nearly as big as hens' eggs. Pursuing their course from hence, they arrived at the IslanjI^gf Sa- rangani, where they pressed two pilots for the Moluccas. In this voyage they chtne lo a beautiful island called ^Sanger, governed by four kings, and on the 6th of September, in the twenty-seventh month after their departure from Spain, they discovered five islands, which the pilots pronounced to be the MqIjjccjis. The Portuguese had described them as situated among rocks and shelves, surrounded continually with dark, thick fogs, and the shores so shallow that it was dangerous sailing near them. In sailing through the Archipelago, the Spaniards had taken possession of some junks, in one of which they found the son of the King of Lu zon, whona the commander set at liberty, without consulting the rest of the company. In approaching one of the chief of the Moluccas, they sounded and found the depth of water full a hundred yards, and on the 8th of No- vember, before sun-nse, they came to anchor in the port of Tixt'dore, or Tidor. The king of the island was a Moor or Mahometan ; he gave the Spaniards a kind reception, calling them his brethren and children, and a friendly intercourse was opened for the sale and exchange of merchandise. The king was displeased that the Portuguese had in preference established their fort and factory on the Island of Temate. Hereby they were enaH°d to purchase a large stock of spices, and also to obtain for the ships an abundant supply of provisions. On the island MAGEttAN. 35 was a sort of tree, the bark of which, after being steeped in water, was dran out in fine threads like silks ; these were made into aprons by the women, and worn by them as their only garments. From Tirridore they passed to the great Island of Gjl^lo^ inhabited by Mahometans and Pagans. The latter worshipped the hrst thmg they beheld in ihe morumg. Among other vegeta'ile productions in this island, was a reed about the size of a man's leg, which contained a large quantity of pure water of a very good taste. The Mahometan district was governed by two kings, each of whom had a great number of con- cubines and children. On the I2i,h of November, a public warehouse being opened for the exchange of commodities, for every ten yards of red cloth the Spa- niards received one bahar of cloves, being near sevenieeii hundred weight ; for fifteen yards of a more ordinary cloth, also one bahar ; for thirty-five drinking glasses, one bahar ; and the same quantity for serenteen cathyls of quicksilver. The inhabitants brought provisions to the ship daily, and water from springs on the mountains where the cloves grew. This water is hot when first taken up, but afterward grows cold. A present was sent from the Moluccas for the King of Spain, consisting of two dead birds, about the size of turtles, with long bills, small heads and legs, and for wing.'! two or three feathers only, ot different colours, the rest of the body being a light brown. 'I'hese birds never fly but when the wind blows to assist them. By the Mahometans who thought they came down from heaven, they were called '■ Birds of Paradise. " The Moluccas were found to be rich in different productions ; sugar canes, melons, gourds, cloves, ginger, rice, white and red figs, almonds, pomegranates, oranges, and lemons, with another fruit called camalical, the taste of which was remarkably cold, and a kind of honey made by flies less than ants. There were also poultry, sheep, and goats. When they left the port of Tirridore, they were attended by several kings of the adjacent islands in their canoes, who conducted them to the Isle of Maie^Mid then took leave of them. The ship Trinidad, however, was unable to keep the seas, and she was left behind in order to be repaired, to prosecute the remainder of the voyage afterward ; but it appears that she was taken by the Portuguese. And now the Viitoria alone, (forty-six Spaniards and thirteen Indians,) with fifty-nine persons on board, set sail for Europe ; J. Sebastian del Eleano had been appointed commander at the Island of Borneo. They passed in sight of Ambuno, (so in the Spanish original,) or Amboyna, and the Banda isles, steering on the outside of Sumatra, and avoiding the Portuguese settlements. At MaUua, which lies in 8 degrees S. lat., they staid fifteen days to repair the ship. The people were cannibals ; their arms were bows and arrows, and they wore their hair and beards twisted up in canes. Sail- ing hence W. and N. W. in a long course, they came to the Island of Eude, where cinnamon was found growing in great abundance. To double the Cape of Good Hope with the greater safety, they sailed as low as 42 degrees S. lat., where they were obliged to wait seven weeks for a wind. When they supposed they were approaching the cape, they looked out for land, and discovered part of the caast-jor coasts of Africa, stretching in a N. E. and S. W. direction; and on '' doubling the cape, they were so distressed by hunger and sickness, that, the crew being assembled, many of them proposed to put in at soma 36 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. port in Africa for refreshment ; but, from a dread of the Portuguese, the majority resolved on sailing home. This was on the 1st of July, 1523, at the distance of about twelve leagues from the Cape Verd islands. For two months they held on their course to the N. W. without touch- ing at any port, during which they lost twenty-one persons, and the rest were emaciated, and on the point of starving. In this situation they arrived at Stjiigji, on the Cape de Verd islands, where they discovered, for the first time, that they di^ffered one whole day in their reckoning of time from the inhabitants of that island. On going ashore, and representing their deplorable circumstances, the Por- tuguese were not backward in relieving their necessities ; but, on a party landing a second time, to purchase some negroes and provisions, and to pay for them with cloves, (clavo,) they were made prisoners, and the rest who were left on board were required to surrender. Sebastian coniinuod to insist on the delivery of his men, a bark be- longing to the island passing and repassing between the ship and the shore ; tdl at length, suspecting some foul play, he weighed anchor, having on board only twenty-two men, sick and able. The wind being fair they crowded sail, and on the 4th of September came within sight of Cape Sti Vincent. On the 7th, 1522, they entered ,SL-la}car, with a number now reduced to about eighteen persons. According to their reckoning, they had sailed 14,000 leagues, and crossed the equator six times, having been absent three years wanting fourteen days. Of the fifty-nine that sailed from the Moluccas, some had been put to death on the Island of Timor for bad conduct, thirteen were detained by the Portuguese at St. Jago, and twenty or more died in the passage. At Seville, the ship's company returned thanks to Providence for their safe return ; and at Valladolid, where the court resided, Eleano and the other principal officers waited on the emperor, with such natives of the distant islands as had survived the voyage, and with the presents sent by their ships. Among these were several Chinese swords and mamucos, with the rare birds, and abundance of rich spices. The emperor, Charles V., bestowed noble rewards on all who had been employed in the expedition, and the whole value of the rich cargo was distributed among them. The lesders he distinguished in a particular manner; a patent of nobility was granted to Juan Sebastian, and an annual pension of 500 ducats for his life. For his arms the emperor gave him the terrestial globe, with this motto : ' Primus vie circumde- disti,^ — ' Thou hast first surrounded me.' Sebastian and his companions where honoured by the whole Spanish nation at large ; and the vene- rable bark, the Viltoria, became a worthy subject for the ingenuity of the poets, and as furnishing matter for sundry historical and romancing accounts. The newly discovered strait had at first assumed the oame of Vittoria, but it was soon afterward known by the name of Magellan, which it has retained ever since. SIR FRANCIS DRAKE.— 1577-1530. Mr. Drake was first apprenticed to the master of a small vessel tradmg to France and Zealand ; at the age of eighteen he went purser of a •hip to the Bay of Biscay, and at twenty made a voyage to the coast of Guinea. In 1565, he went to the West Indies, and in 1567, served under his kinsman, Sir John Hawkins, in the Bay of Mexico, Being a SIR 'FRANCIS DRAKE. 37 consiilerable loser by the last two voyages, he made a third in 1570, with two ships, the Dragon and the Swan ; and in the foUowing year sailed Jigain to liie same parts with the Swan onlv, with a view to gain such experience and information as might qualify him to undertake some voyage of more importance. On the 24th of May, 1572, he sailed from Plymouth in the Pasca, burden seventy tons,- in company with the Swan, burden two hundred and fifty tons, commanded by his brother, John Drake, with seventy- three men and boys, and provisions for a year. In this voyage he sacked the town of Nonibre de Dios, and after- ward from a high tree saw the South Seas, which inspired him with an ardent desire of carrying an EngHsh ship thither. Drake was a great gainer by this expedition, but his generosiiy^and love of justice were very extraordinary, an instance of which is worth recording. Having presented a cutlass to a prince of the free Indians inhabiting the Isthmus of Darien, the prince gave him in return four large wedges of gold, wliich he threw into the common slock, saying, " My owners gave me that cutlass, and it is but just ihey shouhi have their share of its produce." In liis return to Englani^, Captain Drake sailed from the capes of Florida to the isles of Scilly in tvveiUy-three days, and arrived at Ply- mouth on Sunday, the 9ih August, 1573, having been absent one year, two months, and some days. Tho riches he had acquired he si)cnt with great generosity in the service of his country, fitting out three frigates at his own exj>ense, which he commanded in person, under W'alter Earl of Essex, against, the rel)els in Ireland. After the death of Essex, Drake applied himself to Sir Christopher Hatton, vice-chainberlain to the queen, by whose interest he at length obtained the queen's permission for an expedition against the Spaniards. His friends contributed largely toward this expedition, for which five ships were fitted out. The Pelican, which he named the Hind, burden one hundred tons, commanded by himself; the Elizabeth of eighty tons, John Winter, captain ; the Marigold, a bark of tliirly tons burden, John Thomris, commander ; the Swan, a fly-boat of fifty tons, commanded by John Chester ; and a pinnace of fifteen tons, of which Thomas Moon was the commander. Tlie ships had one hundred and sixty-four able men on board, a largo quantity of provision.^!, together with four pinnaces stowed in pieces, to be put together whenever they might be wanted. It is said that all tho vessels for the captain's table, and many belonging to the cook-room, were of silver, and other furniture on board propor- tionably grand. This fleet sailed out of Plymouth Sound the 5th of November, 1577 ; but meeting with a violent storm, in which several of the shijjs were damaged, were obliged to put back and refit. On the 13lh ot December they sailed again with a favourable wind, and saw noJand_tiU_ the 25th, wlieL.they passed Cape Cantin, on the coast of BiirbaryTand" on the 27i,h, came to the-Is-laud ofMogfttlor,' lying one mile out at sea, between which ami tiic continent they found a safe harbour, where the admiral gave directions for putting together one of the pinnaces, which they brought from England. While the men were engaged in this busi- ness, some of the inhabitants came down, and making signs of peace, the admiral sent one of his men on shore, whereupon two natives ven- tured on board, and told them, by signs, that the next day they would supply the ships with provisions, for which kind offer the admiral gave them linen-clotli shoos and a javelin. The ne.xt day they came to the 4 ■»■> fi *"' 38 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. sea-siJe, agreeable to their promise, when one of the men, whose name was Fry, leaped hastily among ttiem, imagining they had been friends, when they seized hiin, and threatening to stab hiin if he made any re- sistance, carried him up into the country. The sailors were about to attempt to rescue Fry, but seeing others of ihe natives appear from places where they hid themselves, were glad to recover their boat, and make off to the ship. The admiral sent a body of men into the country to recover Fry, and punish the treacherous Moors ; but they constantly avoided his people ; so that after searching in vam, they returned to the ship, and sailed from the coast of Morocco on the 3()th of December. In the meantime Fry. being examined, dechired th;it the fleet consisted of English ships, under the command of Admiral Drake, bo\ind to the straits ; a report which the commander had circulated to conceal his real design ; whereupon Fry was sent back with presents for the admiral, and an assurance of friend- ship ; but he being sailed, P'ry was afterward sent to England in a mer- chant ship. The admiral ar'iving at Cape Blanco on the 17th of January, found a ship at anchor with oidy two sailors h^ft to guard her, which he immediately seized, and look her into the harbour, where they remained four days, during which he exercised his men on shore, to prepare them for land as well as sea service. They left this harbour on the 22d, the master of the bark having in- lormed the admiral that in one of tiie Cape de Verd islands, called Mayo, there was plenty of dried cabitos, or goats, which were prepared every year for such of the king's ships as called there. They arrived here on the 27th of January, but the inhabitants could not trade with them, being forbidden by the king's older, and hid left their villai;es. The next day the admiral landed a body of men, with orders to march into the country, which they found extremely fertile, producing great quantities of cocoas, figs, and a very delicate sort of grapes. This island abounded with salt, dried by the heal of ihe sun ; and they found many goats and kids, dead and dried, which the inhabitants had laid in their way, but they did not think proper to accept of thctn. I^eaving this place on the 31st, they sailed by the Island of Jngo, and seeing two Portuguese vessels undei sail, took one laden with wine ; but the admiral detained only the pilot, dis- charging the master and his crew, and giving them some provisions, a butt of wine, their wearing apparel, and one of his own pinnaces. Three pieces of cannon were fired at ihem from the island, but did them no damage. They arrived the same evening at Del Fuego, or the Burning Island, so called from a volcano on its north side, from which constantly issues smoke and flame. To the south of Del Fuego they discovered the beautiful island of Brava, covered with evergreens, and watered with cooling streams, which pour themselves into the sea, which is so deep around it, that there is no possibility of coming to an anchor. But some of the sailors going on shore found a poor hermit, whose cell was furnished with an ill-contrived altar, some images badly carved, and a crncifi.K ; and this man appeared to be the only inhabitant of the pl.ice. Quilling this group, they sailed toward the line, being sometimes tossed by tempests, and at others quite becalmed. They saw numbers of dolphins, bonitos, and flying fish, which being pursued by the sharks, frequently flew out of the water, and their fins drymg, they dropped on the ships, and were unable to rise again. Having passed the line, they at length discovered the coast of Brazil on the 5th of April, being fifty-four days since they saw land. As soon a» SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 39 tlie people on shore saw the ships, they made large fiiss in different parts, and performed various ceremonies to prevail on the gods to sink the ves- sels, or at least to prevent their landing. On the 7th, in a storm of light- ning, rain, and thunder, they lost the Christopher, but happily met with her again on the 11th, at a place which the admiral called Cape Joy, where they found a harbour between a larye rock and the main, m which the ships rode in safety. At this place they found no other inhabitants but herds of wild deer, but the sailors discovered the print of human feet in the sand. The air was mild, and the soil rich and fertile. They killed several seals on the rock, which they found to be wholesome food, though not extremely pleasant. Having taken in water, they sailed foi the great River Plate ; where, finding no good harbour, they (Hit to sea again, and came to a good bay, in which were several islands stocked with seals and fowls, and abounding in fresh water. The admiral gome on shore, the natives came leaping and dancing about him, and seemed extremely willing to trade, but would touch nothing but what was first thrown down on the ground. The Mangold and the Christopher, having been sent to discover a con- venient harbour, returned with the agreeable news that they had fou.id one, whereupon all the fleet sailed thither. The admiral, having no far- ther use for the Swan, ordered her to he burnt, having first divided her provisions and iroTT work among the rest of the fleet. While they were employed on shore, the natives came to them without fear ; they had a covering made of wild beasts' skins about the middle, wore something wrapped round their heads, and had their faces and bodies painted. Tliey had bows of an ell long, and two arrows each. Two of them being plea- sed with the admiral's hat, snatched it of his head, and ran away with it, dividing the prize between them, one taking the hat and the other the lace. Sailing hence, they anchored in port St. Julian, which name was given it by Magellan, where, the admiral going on shore with six of his men, some of the natives slew the gunner, whose death was revenged by the commander, who killed the murderer with his own hand. At this place Magellan having executed one of his company who conspired against his life, Drake caused one of the crew named Doughty to be tried for the the same offence against himself; and executed him on the same gibbet. On the 17th of August they left the port of St. Julian, and on the 20th fell in with the strait of Magellan, which they entered on the 21st, but found so full of intricate turnings and windings, that the same wind which was sometimes in their favour, was at others against them. This pas- sag© is dangerous, for though there is several good harbours and plenty of fresh water, yet the depth of the sea is so great, that there is no an- choring except in some very narrow river, or between the rocks On both sides are vast mountains covered with snow to a prodigious height above the clouds, notwithstanding which the trees and plants near the shore maintain a constant verdure. The breadth of the strait is from one league to four, and the tides rise high from one end to the other. After several diftculties they entered the South Sea on the 6th of September, and on the next day a violent storm drove them two hundred leagues south of the strait, where they anchored among some islands, abounding in water and excellent herbs. On the 3d of October discovered three islands, on one of which was a most incredible number of birds ; and on the 8th, in a storm, lost the Elizabeth, Captain Winter, who, being driven back into the strait, took possession of the country in the name of Queen Elizabeth, and aftervvard ar»iri-^ s^fe in England. i 40 VOVAGKS ROUND THE WORLD. Being now lurive'd at the other mouth of the stiNiit, they steered ioi the coast of Chili, and on the 29th of November cast anchor at the Island of Mocha, were the admiral, with ten men, went on shore. Tlie inhabi- tants were such us the extreme cruelty of the Spaniards had obliged to 'seek a refuj^e here ; and they behaved very civdly, giving the adnin-al two fat sheep and some potatoes in exchange for some trifling presents. And now continuing their course for Chili, they met an Indian in a canoe, who, mistaking them for Spaniards, informed them that at St. Jago there was a large shij) laden for Peru. The admiral rewarded hifirfoi his intelligence, whereupon he conducted them to the place where the ship lay a° anchor. There were only eight Spaniards and three negroes on board, who, mistaking them fur friends, welcomed them by beat of drum, and invited them to drink Ciiili wine. Drake accepted the invi- tation, and going on board, put them all under hatches, e.xcept one, who, leaping overboard, swam on sliore to give notice of the coming of the Entrlish : upon which, the inhabitants quitting tiie town, the admiral se- cured his prize, and then going on shore, rifled the town and chapel, from which he took a silver chalice, and other articles. They also found in the town a large quantity of Chili wine, which the admiral sent on board, and then steered for Lima, the capital of Peru, having first discharged all his prisoners exce[)t one, whom he kept for a pilot. Proceeding to sea, the admiral examined the value of the booty he had taken, which exceed- ed thirty-seven thousand Spanish ducats of pure gold of Baldivia : con- tinuing their course, they put into the harbour of Coquimho, where tho admiral sending fourteen men on shore to fetch water, the Spaniards sent three hundred horse and two hundred foot to attack lliern ; but the English, making a good retreat, reached their vessels with the loss of only one man, who w is sliot ; and the next day, the admiral ordering some of h's people on shore to bury him, the Spamards displayed a flag of truce ; but the sailors doubting their sincerity, returned to the ships as soon as they had buried their companion. From this place they sailed to the port of Tarapaxa, where some of them, going ashore, found a Spaniard asleep, with eighteen bars of silver, worth four thousand Spanish ducats, laying by bis side, which they took away without waking liim ; and not far from the same place, going ashore for water, they met a Spaniard and an Indian driving eight Peruvi.iii sheep, each sheep having on his back two leather bags, and each bag containing fifty-two ])Ounds weigiit of very fine silver. They took away the load, and permitted the laidian and Spaniard to drive on the sheep. Entering the port of Li;na on t!ie 13th of February, thoy lound twelve sail of ships at anchor unguard(.'d, the crews being all on shore. Exa- mining these vessels, they lound a chest filled wuh rials of plate, which, together with some silks an I linen, they made prize of; but having intel- ligence that a rich ship, called the Cacafuego, was lately sailed from that harbour for Paita, the admiral determined to follow her, but, oji his arri- val at Paita, found she had sailed for Panama. They met with another prize, however, in which, besides ropes and other useful tackling for ships, they found eighty pounds weight of gold, and a crucifix of the same metal, adorned with emeralds : but resolving still lo proceed in search of the Cacafucgo, the admiral promised a golden chain, which he usually wore about his neck, to the first person who should di.^cover her ; which fell to the share of Mr. John Drake, who first saw her about three o'clock in the afternoon. Having come up with the chase about six o'clock, they gave her three shots, which brought away the mizzen-masl. SIU FRANCIS DRAKE. 41 whereupon they boarJeJ her, and found thirfeen chests full of rials of plate, eighty pounds weight of gold, a quantity of jewels, and twenty-six tons of silver in bars. The admiral findintj, among other rich pieces of plate, two large silver bowls gilt, which belonged to the pilot, told him he must have one of them, which the pilot readily complied with, delivering the other to the admiraTs steward at the same time. Continuing their course to the west, ihey met with a .■•hip laden with linen cloth, china dishes, and silks ; from the owner of which, a Sjjaniard, who was then on board, the admiral took a falcon of massy gold, with a large emi^rald in the breast of it ; after which, they seized such of the effects as ihcy choose, and dismissed the vessel, keeping the pilot of her for their own service. This pilot con- ducted them to the liaibour of Guatulco, in which town he said there were only seventc^eii Spainards. The admiral and some of his people going on shore, enteretl the town, and proceeding directly to the hall of justice, found a court sitting, and the judge ready to pass sentence on several poor negroes, who were accused of a plot to fire the town. But the admiral seized every person present, and sent them on board his ship ; from whence he compelled the judge to write to the people of the town to keep at a distance, and not aiteinpt to make any resistance. This being done, they ransacked the place, but found nothing of value, except a bushel of rials of plate and a chain of gold sot with jewels, which an English sailor took from a rich Sptuiiard who was flying out of the town. Mr Drake having now revenged both himself and his country on the Spaniards, began to think of the best way of returning to England. To retiun by the strait of Magellan (and as yet no other pas.sage had been discovered) would, he thought, be to throw himself into the hands of the Spaniards ; he therefore determined to sail westward to the East Indies, and so following the Portuguese course, to return home by the Cape of Good Hojje. But wantiuff wind, he was obliged to sail toward the north, in which course, having contiiuied at least six hundred leagues, and being got into forty-three degrees north latitude, they found it intolerably cold, upon which they steered southward, into thirty-eight degrees norih lati- tude, where they discovered a country, which, from its white clifls, they called New Albion, though it is now known by the name of California. They here discovered a bay, which entering with a favourable gale, they found several huts by the water-side, well defended from the severity of the weather. The men go quite naked, but the women have a ileer-skin over their shoulders, and round their waists a covering of bull-rushes, dressed aftor the manner of hemp. These people bringing the admiral a present of feathers, and cauls of net-work, he entertained them so kindly and generously, that they were extremely pleased, and soon afterward sent him a present of fea- thers and bags of tobacco. A number of them coming to deliver it, gathered themselves together at the top of a small hill, from the highest point of which one harangued the admiral, whose tent was placed at the bottom ; when the speech was ended, they laid down their arms, and came down, offering presents, at the same time returning what the admiral had given them. The arrival of the English at California being soon known throughout the country, two persons, in the character of ambassadors, came to the admiral atid informed him, in the best manner they were able, that their king would visit him, if he might be assured of coming in safety. Being satisfied in this point, a numerous company soon apneared, in the 42 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. front of which was a very comely person, bearing a kind of sceptre, on which hung two crowns, and three chains of great length. The chains were made of bo-nes, and the crowns of net-work, curiously wrought with feathers of various colours. The men being drawn up in line-of-battle, the admiral stood ready to receive the king°within the fences of his tent. The company having halted at a distance, the sceptre-bearer made a speech half an hour long, at the end of which he began singing and dancing, in which he was followed by the king and all the people, who, continuing to sing and dance, came quite up to the tents ; when sitting down, the king took off his crown of feathers, placed it on the admiral's head, and put on him the other ensigns of royalty • and he also made him a solemn tender of his whole kingdom : all which the adntiiral accepted, in the name of the queen, his sovereign, in hopes that these proceedings might, one time or other, contribute to the advantage of England. The admiral and some of his people travelling to a distance up the country, saw such a number of rabbits, that it appeared an entire war- ren : they also saw deer in such plenty as to run a thousand in a herd. The earth of the country seemed to promise rich veins of gold and silver, some of the ore being constantly found upon digging. The enterprising commander at his departure set up a pillar with a large plate on it, on which was engraved her majesty's name, picture, arms, and title to the country, together with his own name, and the time of his arrival there. Sailing from this hospitable country, they lost sight of land till the 13th of October, when they saw the Ladrone islands, from whence came off a great number of small vessels, laden with cocoas and other fruit. These vessels on the outside were smooth and shining, like burnished horn ; on each side of them lay two pieces of wood, and the inside was adorned with while shells. These people at first dealt fairly, but soon - began to steal whatever they could get at, refusing to give up whatever they had seized ; whereupon the English determined they should come no more on board, which so enraged them that they began to fling stones ; but a gun being fired, they leaped into the water, and sheltered themselves under their vessels, till the ship was at a distance ; and then putting their boats right in the water, made the best of their way to the shore. They came to other islands, which appeared to be very populous, on the 18lh ; and passed by the islands of Tagulada, Zewarra and Zeion, whose inhabitants were friends to the Portuguese. The first of these islands produces great quantities of cinnamon. The admiral held on his course without delay, and on the 4th of No- vember, fell in with the Moluccas, and proposing to sail for Tirridore, coasted along the Island of Mutyr, which belongs to the King of Ternate, but in the way met his viceroy, who, seeing the admiral's ship, went on board without fear, and advised him not to go to Tirridore, but sail di- rectly for Ternate, because his master, who was an enemy to the Portu- guese, would not deal with him, if he had any concerns with the people of Tirridore, or the Portuguese who were settled there. Hearing this, the commander steered for Ternate, and coming to an anchor before the town early the next morning, his first step was to send a messenger to the king, with a velvet cloak, as a present, and to assure him that his only design in coming thither was to exchange his merchandise for such provisions as the island afforded. His majesty returned a kind answer to the admiral, assuring him that a friendly correspondence with the IJngUsh would be highly agreeably to him ; th^t they were \s'elc9me 19 SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 43 the produce of his kingdom, which, together with himself, he should be proud to lay at the feet of his royal austress, and acknowledged her for his sovereign. The king having determin«d to visit the admiral on hoard his ship, sent a number of his most considerable people in four large pleasure- barges, who sat under a large canopy of perfumed mats, which reached from one end of the vessel to the other, and was supported by a frame made of reeds. They were all dressed in wliite, and attended by a number of servants clothed in the same colour, behmd whom stood se- veral ranks of soldiers, and on each side of the vessel were the rowers, in three galleries, one above another. The soldiers were furnished with warlike instruments of various kinds, and well accoutred. The admiral having made the king and his principal people some valu- able presents, his majesty took his leave, promising to come on board again the next day ; and that evening sent hiin a quantity of rice, fowls, fruit, sugar, and other provisions. The king did not go aboard the next morning, but sent his brother and the viceroy to invite Drake on shore, while they were to remain on board as hostages for his safe return. The admiral did not think proper to accept the invitation, but sent some of his officers on shore, detaining only the viceroy till they came back. They were received on their landing by ai.oiher of the king's brothers, and several persons of quality, and conducted to the castle in great state, where they found a court of at least a thousand persons, the chief of whom were sixty elderly men, who formed the council, and four envoys from Arabia, in scarlet robes and turbans, who were there to ne- gotiate matters of trade between Muscat and Ternate. The king came in, guarded by twelve persons bearing lances, while a large canopy of gold cloth was borne over his head. He was covered with a gold tissue ; in his hair were fastened a number of gold rings by way of ornament, and a large chain of the same metal hung round his neck ; his legs were uncovered, but he wore shoes of a kind of red leather, and several rings set with jewels on his fingers. He spoke to the English gentlemen with great kindness, and sent one of his council to conduct them back to the ship. He is a powerful prince, having the government of seventy islands, besides Ternale, which is the chief of the Moluccas. The religion of the country is Mahometanism. Mr. Drake having despatched all his business at Ternate, weighed anchor, and sailed to a little island south of Celebes, or Macassar, where they staid twenty-six days, in order to repair the iron work of the ship. In this island are bats as big as hens, and a sort of land cray-fish, which dig holes in the earth like rabbits, and are so large, that one of them is sufficient to dine four persons. Here they observed a sort of shining flies in great multitudes, which, flying up and down between the trees and bushes in the night, make them appear as if they were on fire. The whole island is covered with trees, very high and straight, without boughs, except at the top, the leaves of which are like English broom. Setting sail hence, they ran among a number of small islands, and the wind shifting about suddenly, drove them upon a rock, at eight in the evening of the 9th of January, 1579, and stuck fast till four in the afternoon of the next day. In this extremity they lightened the vessel, by taking out eight pieces of ordnance, some provisions, and three tons of cloves ; and the wind as suddenly changing again, they nude sail, and happily got off. On the 8th of February, they fell in with the fruitful Island of Baretene, the people of which hav^ very (;oraely persons ; and 44 VOYAGES ROUND THK AVORLD. their punctuality in all their dealings, and civil and courteous behaviour to strangers, is very extraordinary. The men have a covering for their heads, and another round their waist, and the women are clothed from the middle to the feet,, besides wliich, they load llieir arms with eight bracelets, made of bone, brass, or horn, the least of which weighs two ounces. Leaving Baretene, they sailed for Java Major, where tiiey met with courteous and honourable entertainment. The island is governed by five kings, who live in perfect friendship with each other. They had once lour of their majesties on ship-board at a time, and the company of two or three of them very often. The peojjle of Java are stout, active, warlike, and go well armed with daggers, swords, and targets, of their own manufacture, and very curious. Their sociableness is such that in each village they have a public house, to which each person carries such provision as he has ; and here they daily join to make a feast, for the promotion of good fellowship. They have a method of boding rice peculiar to themselves ; lirst putting it into an earthen pot, in the hgure of a sugar loaf, ojien at t!ie greater end, and perforated all over ; and fixing this in a large earthen pot full of boiling water, the nee swells and tills the holes of the pot, so that only a small quantity of water can enter. By this method the rice is brought to a firm consistence, and at length caked into a sort of bread, which, with butter, oil, sugar, and spices, makes a very pleasant food. They sailed from hence on the 36th of March ; on the 18th of June they doubled the Cape of Good Hope, and on the 23d of July arrived at Sierra Ijcoae, on the coast of Guinea, where they found a great number of elephants, and saw trees on the shore with oysters hanging to them, on which they lived and multiplied. They also found lemons in plenty, with which, and the oysters, all the crew were greatly refreshed after their fa'igue ; having put in at no place since they left Java. They stayed L; re two days, taking in wood, water, and refreshments, when sailing homeward, they were otf the Canaries on the 26th ; but, being in no v.aiit of provisions, held on their course for Plymouth, aad"KTrTred on Monday, the 26th of September, 15S0 ; but, according to thou own reckoning, on Smiday'The 2.5th ; having gone round the world in two years, ten months, and a few days. On the 4th of April; ISSirQueen Elizabeth dined on board Admiral Drake's ship at Deptford ; and, after dinner, conferred on him th;e ho- nour of knighthood, telling him, at the same time, that his actions did hiin more honour than his title. His shij) was preserved many years, and when she became decayed, a chair was made from some small remains of it, which is still shown as a curiosity at O.^ford. By this voyage England acquired the honour of having the first commander-in-chief who had sailed round the world, .Magellan having been killed on his voyage, as before related. SHI THOMAS CAVENDISH.— 1586-83. Thom.\s Cavendish, of Tretnley, in the County of Suffolk, esquire, was a gentleman of a considerable family, and possessed a large estate near Ipswich. He had an early inclination to the sea. which he indulged on his coming of age, by converting part of his estate into money, with which he lilted out a stout vessel, u/ 130 tons burthen, called the Tyger, «nd in which he accompanied Sir Richard Greenville in his voyage to SIR THOMAS CAVENDIiJH. 45 Virginia, in 1585 ; and having encountered many dangers and difficul- ties, without any advantage, returned safe to Falmouth on the 6th of October in the same year. In this voyage having seen a great part of the Spanish West Indies, and had an opportunity of conversing with several persons who had sailed through the South Seas with Sir Francis Drake, who was by this time raised to the head of his profession, he became emulous of attempting a like adventure ; and, therelore, as soon as he returned home, sold or mortgaged a part of his estate to raise money for equipping two ships proj er Tor the expedition. So intent was he on the business, that in less tlian a month his carpenters began to work on the large vessel ; and iiis little squadron was entirely completed and properly furnished in less than half a year. Having provided such sea charts, maps, draughts, and accounts of for- mer voyages as could lie procured ; and having, by means of his patron, liOrd Hunsdon, then lord chamberlain, obiamed a comnnssion from Queen Elizabtth, he embarked at Harwich, on the 10th of July, 15>i6, on board the largest ship, called the Desire, burthen 140 tons, having with him the Content, burtlien GO tons, and a bark, called the Hugh Gallant, of 40 tons, well supplied, at his own expense, with provisions for two years, and manned with 126 officers and sailors. From this port he steered to Plymouih, whence he sailed again on the 25lh, and on the next day fell in with eight ships fioin Biscay, one ot which attacked the admiral, but meeting with a warm reception, sheer- ed off. On the 5th of August, they fell in with the Island of Forteventura, from which they continued their voyage to Cape Blanco, on the coast of Guinea, by which time the officers and men beginning to complain much of the scurvy, it was determined to put them on shore as soon as opportunity offered. On the 25th, fell in with the south side of Sierra Leone, where, going on shore, they destroyed a negro town ; while a negro killed one of their men with a poisoned arrow. On the 3d of September their boat went four miles up the harbour, and procured a great many lemons, caught a large quantity of fish, and on their return saw a great number of buffaloes. Quilting the harbour of Sierra Leone on the Bill of September, they anchored next day at two miles distance from one of the Cape de Verd islands, where, going on shori?, they found an Indian town deserted by its inhabitants, wno had left a considerable quantity of provisions behind. They departed from this island on the 10th, and, on the last day of October, sailing W. S. W. on the coast of Brazil, discovered a moun- tain with a high round summit, which at a distance resembled a town. On the 1st of November, sailed in between the town of St. Sebastian and the main land, and, going on shore, employed themselves till the 23d of the month in erecting a lorge, building a pinnace, and repairing the damages of their ships. They reached a harbour on the coast of South America on the 27th of November, whitdi the admiral, entering first, called Port Desire, from the name of his ship. Near this harbour, which is very convenient, they found a great quantity of seals arid gray gulls. Going on shore, the savages wounded two of the sailors with their arrows, which were made of canes, and headed with flints. These people were of a prodigious s»talure, the length of one of their feet beiug eighteen inches, antl their height seven feet or better. When one of them dies, he is buried in a tomb formed of stones, by the sea-side, and a numbe* 46 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. of shells laid under his head. When the admiral left the place, he called them Patagoiiians, and the account of them agrees tolerably well with that of Magellan Leaving Port Desire on tiie 28th of December, and continuing a course S. W. and by S., they fell in with a great cape on the 3d of January, which reaches to the opening of the Straits of Magellan. Anchoring under this cape, a violent storm arose, which lasted three days ; they part- ed from their cable, and on the 6th entered the straits, which were in some places very narrow, and in others five or six leagues wide. On the next day they met with a Spaniard, who informed them there were twenty-two more of the same nation in the vicinity, being all that remain- ed of four hundred, who had been left there three years before. On the 8th they anchored at Penguin inland, so called from that bird, great num- bers of which were killed and salted ; and next sailed south and south- west, to a place built by the Spaniards, called Cividad del Rey Felippe, or King Philip's City, which had four forts or bastions, each fort having one piece of cannon, which had been buried, and the carriages left standing. They sailed hence through several channels, frequently steering diffe- rent courses to the mouth of the straits opening to the Pacific Ocean, which, owing to the contrary winds and the badness of the weather, they did not reach till the 23d of February. On the 24th they entered the South Sea ; and, on the Isi of March, in a great storm at night, parted from the Hugh Gallant, about 45 leagues from land, and in 49 degrees south latitude. The storm continued about three days, during which this vessel sprung a leak, and it was with the utmost difficulty the men could keep her from sinking ; but, on the 15th, in the morning, she met the other ships between the Island of St. Mary and the main land. The admiral and the Content had secured themselves two days during the violence of the storm, at the Isle of Mocha, in 38 degrees south latitude, where some of the company going on shore, well armed, were attacked by the Indians armed with bows and arrows. On the 16th the admiral went on shore, attended by eighty men, well armed, and were met by two Indians, who treated them with great respect, and conducted them to a chapel built by the Spaniards, near which were many store-houses filled with wheat and barley, equal in goodness to that of England. Cavendish invited the two Indians on board, who, after soine time, perceiving they were not among Spaniards, began to talk much about the gold mines, intimating, by signs, that if they would go across the country to Aranco, they might furnish themselves with as much of that metal as they pleased. But this the admiral did not think fit to do, and having supplied himself with a good stock of corn, hogs, fowls, potatoes, and dried dog-fish, determined to continue his voyage. They left this place on the 18th, and next day anchored at an island called the Conception ; sailing thence, they came to the Bay of Quintero on the 30lh, and, on the last of the month, fifty men, well armed, marched several miles up the country, which they found well stocked with wild cattle, horses, dogs, hares, rabbits, and partridges ; they also saw seve- ral rivers, near which were great quantities of wild fowl. Having pro- ceeded as far as the mountains, they refreshed themselves on the banks of a pleasant river, and returned to their ships at night. A party of two hundred Spanish horse were in pursuit of the detachment that day, but being seen, would not venture to attack them ; however, on the 1st of April, while the English were on shore filling water, the Spaniards poured down two hundred cavalry from the hills upon them, who killed several, SIR THOMAS CAVENDISH. 47 ini took a few prisonftrs ; but a reinforcement of fifteen English coming up, rescued their companions, killed twenty-four of the Spaniards, and drove the rest, to the mountains. After this they continued taking in water unmolested for four days, and then put off to an island at the dis- tance of a league, abounding with penguins and other fowl, with which having plentifully stocked the ships, they continued their voyage north-west. On the 15th they arrived at an excellent harbour called Moro-MorRno, so formed by the situation of an island as to admit a ship at either end. At this place the admiral went on shore with thirty men, and was plentifully ■npplied with wood and water by the Indians, who brought it on their backs. Tiiese harmless people lived in a very wild manner, though kept greatly in subjection by the Spaniards. They conducted the admiral and his parlj to their houses, which were about two miles from the harbour, coniposea of two or three forked sticks stuck in the ground, a few rafters being laid across from one to the other, and the whole covered with boughs. They subsisted on stinking fish, and their beds were the skins of wild beasts spread on the floor. Leaving Moro-Moreno, they proceeded till the third of May, and then anchored in a bay near three small towns, in about 13 degrees south lati- tude, called Pisca, Chincha, and Paracca, where, going on shore at the former, they found some houses deserted by the inhabitants. Here they supplied themselves with wine, bread, figs, and poultry ; but the sea ran so high they could not get on shore at Paracca, which was the principa" place. They also found here two ships laden with sugar, molasses, maize, cordovan skins, and other effects, out of which they took what they chose, put the people on shore, and burnt the vessels. It was judged that the cargo of one of these ships would have yielded them twenty thousand pounds, had a proper market for it been at hand. Sailing hence, they came, on the 26th, to the .road of Paita, the town of which name is a neat well-built place, containing about two hundred houses. The admiral landing with seventy men, drove the inhabitants to the hills, from whence they fired small shot upon his party, but the Spa- niards would not come to close quarters ; whereupon the English, having possessed themselves of the town, marched in pursuit up the hills, com- pletely routed ihem, and brought back considerable property, which they had hid among the mountains. Having seized twenty-five pounds weight of silver, in pieces of eight, they set fire to the town, and to a vessel which lay in the harbour, embarking while the pUce was in flames. Sailing hence to Puna, an island in one degree south latitude, they lound a ship of 2.'i0 tons burthen in the harbour, which they sunk, and went on shore. The cacique having removed the valuable furniture of his palace and other effec-ts to a neighbouring island, the admiral went there on the 26ih, and seizing what he thought proper, had it conveyed on board the sh'ps. They also burnt the church and took away five of the bells. The English were attacked on the 2d of June by a hundred Spaniards, who, with the loss of forty-six of their own men, killed and look prisoners about twelve of the English ; but seventy sailors going on shore the same day, at- tacked and routed one hundred Spaniards armed with muskets, and two hundred Indians with bows and arrows ; and then, destroying their or- chards, also burnt four large ships upon the stocks, together with the town, which consisted of three hundred houses, which was reduced to a heap of rubbish. On the Ist of July gained a sight of New Spain at the distance of foul 4S VOYAGES ROUND THE ^YORLD. leacrues from land; and on the 9th took a new ship of 120 tons, which, havina rifled, and taken her pilot, one Sancius, and the crew on board, they set on fire ; and the next day also took a bark, which was destined to give intelligence of their arrival along the coast. About tiie middle of August the admiral and thirty men went in the pinnace to Port Nativity, in 19 degrees north latitude, where Sancius, the pilot of the former ship they had taken, informed him that a rich prize would be found ; but, before their arrival, she had sailed twelve leagues farther to fish for pearls. They, however, took a mulatto, who had been sent to give notice of their arrival along the coast of Neuva Gallicia, and haviuCT burnt the town of Nativity, with two vessels of two hundred tons burthen on the stocks, they returned to their ships. On tlie 26ih. sailed into the Bay of St. Jago, where having watered, caught a considerable quantity of fish, and taken some pearls, they left it on the 2d of Septem- ber ; next dav sailed a league to the westward of Port Nativity, into the Bay of Malacca, where the admiral and about thirty of his men went ashore to a little Indian town called Acallan, consisting of upward of twenty nouses and a church, to wiiich they set fire, and went on board again in the night. This bay they left on the 4th, and sailing along the coast with a fair wind, arrived in the road of Chacalla four days afterward. On the day after their arrival, ihe commander sent forty men, with the pilot (Sancius) as a guide, through the woods into the country, where they found a few Indian and Spanish families, and one of Portuguese, all of whom they made prisoners and carried on board ihe ships. The admiral employed the women to fetch plantains, lemons, oranges, and other fruit on board ; and as a reward for their industry, discharged all their husbands except Diego, a Portuguese, and Sembrano, a Spanish carpenter. On the 24th entered the road of Massailan, which lies under tlie tropic of Cancer, where they found plenty of fine fish, and the adjacent country abounded with fruit. They left it again on the 27th, putting in at an island a league to the northward, where they cleaned their sliips and new- built their pinnace. Being now much in want of water, one Floras, a Spanish prisoner, advised them to dig in the sand to thd depth of three feet, where they found a suflicient quantity for the use of the crew. They sailed from this island on the 9th of October, and on the blth fell in with Cape St. Lucar, on the west point of California, a place which, as Sir Francis Drake's people had observed before, exactly resembles the Needles at the Isle of Wight. A fine bay, called by the Spaniards Agu- ada Segura, the banks of which are inhabited by a great number of In- dians during the summer season, is situated within this cape. At this place they watered, and wailed for the Acapulco ship till the 4th of November, on which day, in the morning, one of the admiral's crew, cpoinor up the topmast-head, saw a vessel coming in from the sea, on which he cried out, " A sail ! a sail !" Everything being immediately prepared, the admiral chased her nearly four hours, when coming up he saluted her wiih a broadside and a volley of small shot. She appeared to be the St. Anne, a Spanish vessel of 700 tons burthen; some of the admiral's people immediately boarding her, found the crew provided with javelins, targets, and great stones, with which the Spaniards attacked the English and forced them to retire, with the loss of two men killed and several wounded. The admiral now gave thema second salute with his great and small arms, by which a great number vvere killed, but they still continued fighting, till a third broadside obliged them to yield or sink ; whereupon they flung out a flao- of truce, SIR THOMAS CAVENDISH. 49 struck their sails, and the captain, pilot, anJ a principal merchant came on board the admiral. The prize contained one hundred and twenty-two thousand pezoes of gold, besides great quantities of rich silks, satins, damask, musk, and a good stock of provisions. Havmg obtained this rich booty, they put into the harbour of Puerto Seguro on the 6th of Noveinber, where the adntiral set all the prisoners on shore, to the number of one hundred and fifty, giving them wine, pro- visions, and the sails of their ship, willi planks to build houses. I'he captors now began to divide the booty, when the avarice of some of the sailors caused a considerable disturbance, which threatened a mutiny, but the candid and generous behaviour of Cavendish at length compro- mised all differences. Of the prisoners of the St. Anne were reserved two Japanese boys, three that were born on the Island of Manilla, a Portuguese who had visited China and Japan, and a Spanish pilot, who was well acquainted with the seas between Acapulco and New Spain, and the Ladrone islands. On the 19ih of November, the admiral havmg made a present to the cajitain of the St. Anne, put him on shore with arms to defend himself against the Indians, and then burnt the ship, vviih five hundred tons of goods in her, waiting till he saw her destroyed quite down to the edge of the water. This being done, they proposed to sail for England ; and at this time had the misfortune to lose the Content, which remaining behind some little time in the road, they sailed out, expecting she would follow, but they never saw her again. They however directed their course to the Ladrones, which held them till the 3d of January, when, early in the morning, they had sight of one of the cluster called Guam. Sailing on with a gentle wind, they came within two leagues of the island, when sixty or seventy canoes, filled with savages, can>e off to the ships, bringing fresh fish, cocoas, plantains, and potatoes, to exchange with the sailors, who gave them pieces of old iron in return. The bits of iron they fastened to cords and fishing lines, which they threw over the ship's side to the canoes, and received back the provisions by the same convevance. These savages crowded about the ship in such a manner, that two of their canoes were broke to pieces, but the people diving escaped unhurt ; and they would not leave the ship, at last, till some small arms were discharged. They were very lusty men, of a tawny colour, remarkably fat ; most of them wore their hair very long, but some tied it up in knots on the crown of their head. Their canoes, made of rafts of canes, were seven or eight yards m length and half a yard in breadtli, furnished with square or triangular sails made of sedges, both head and stern of the vessel being alike, and sailing equally with or nearly against the wind. Sailing hence, they fell in with the headland of the Philippine islands, called Caba del Spirito Santo, at day-break, on the l4th of January, The island is large, high in the middle, running a great way into the sea westward. It is one hundred leagues from Guam, and si.xty from Manilla, which is the chief of the Philippines, and inhabited by si-t or seven hun- dred Spaniards. The place has no great strength, but is immensely rich in gold and other valuable commodities. It has a constant annual cor- respondence with Acapulco, and emplovs twenty or thirty ships to trade to China with the Sangueloes, who are Chinese merchants, extreme good mechanics, and the best embroiderers in silk and satin in the world. The people of Manilla are great gainers by their trade with the Sangue- 5 6d VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. loes, wno send great quantities of gold thither, and exchange it for an equal weight of silver. On the next day ihey fell in with the Island of Capul, passing a very narrow sirait between that islind and another. Cominsr to an anchor in four faihoin water, within a cable's lengih of the shore, a canoe came up to ihein, in which was one of the seven caciques, who are joint gover- nors of the island. They passed for Spaniards with these people, who brought provisions, exchanging a quantity of potatoes, or four cocoas for a yard ot fine cloth. The cacique coming on board, they detained him, and desired, by signs, that he would send for his six brother caciques ; whereupon the servants, who managed the canoe, went for them, and they quickly came with a great number of the people of the island, bringing with them hogs, poultry, cojoas, and potatoes, so that the sailors were fully employed in exchanging, which they did at the Spanish rate, giving eight rials of plate for a hog, and one for a fowl. The pilot, whom they took on board the St. Anne, having laid a plot to betray them to the Spaniards, was hanged at this place. Tne people of the island are of a tawny complexion, go almost naked, worship the devil, and practise the rite of circumcision. They, as well as several other neighbouring islands, have paid tribute to the English, on a supposition that they were Spaniards. The admiral summoned all the caciques on the 33d, and acquainting them that they were English, and the mortal foes of the Spaniards, at the same time paying them in money for the hogs and other provisions which he had received as tribute. These chiefs much admired the admiral's generosity, and promised to assist him with all their forces, if he would miike war upon the Spaniards. At their departure, the admiral fired a gun, in compliment to his visiters, after they had several times rowed round his ship to afford him diversion. On the next morning, June the 24th, they set sail, steering north-west by several islands, where the Spaniards, having been alarmed, kept fires and a strict watch all night, continually discharging their pieces. They passed the Island of Panama, which is a plain, level country, abounding in tall trees, proper for making ma.sts of ships, and having several mines of fine gold, which are in post^ession of the Indians. To the southward of this, in nine degrees north latitude, lies the large Island of Negro, a low and fruitful country, where the natives maintain their independency. At six in the morning, on the 29th of June, they passed through the strait between Panama and the Negro Island. They met with nothing remark- able from this time till the 1st of March following, when, having passed the straits of Java Major and Minor, they came to an anchor" on the south-west of .Fava Major, where they saw people fishing in a bay under the island, to whom the admiral sent out a boat with a negro who could speak the Malay tongue, which is much used at Java ; but the people being frightened, ran away to the woods. One of them afterward ven- turing to the sea-side, the negro told him it was expected they would find fresh water for the use of the ship, and desired to be conducted to the king, whom having found, he acquainted him that the admiral was come hither to traffic for provisions, or any valuable commodities the island afforded. On the 12th, ten of the king's canoes came ofT to the admiral, laden with oxen, hogs, poultry, geese, eggs, sugar, cocoas, plantains, oranges, lemons, wine, and acqua vitae. Two Portuguese who were on the island ^ame on board, and gave them a full account of the manners and customs of the inhabitants. OLIVER VAN NOORT. 61 The admiral having paid for the provisions they brought, sailed on the 16th of Mnrch for the Cape of Good Hope, and on the 11th of May one of the company spied land, bearing norih and north-west, at the distance of about foriy leagues. Bemg hecalmed on the lullowing two days, they could not get near enough to be certain what land it was ; but, on llie 14th, found u to be Cape Falso, from which ibe Cape of Good Hope bears west and by south at near tilty leagues distance. On the 16th they saw the Cape of Good Hope, which, by their reckoning, appeared to be one thousand eight hundred and fifiy leagues from Jasa. On the 8ih of June they came within sight of the Island of St. Helena, at tlie distance of eight leagues; but, having little wind, could not reach it till the next day, when they came to an anchor near the shore, in twelve fathom water. Going on shore, they entered the church, whic.'i was hung with painted cloths, having an altar with a picture of the Virgin Mary, and the story of the crucifixion. This church stands in a valley so filled with fruit trees and excellent plants that it appears like a well cultivated garden, adorned with long-lemon, orange, citron, pomegranate, date, and rig trees, presenting the eye with blossoms, and green and ripe fruit all at the same time. Having taken on board what necessaries they wanted, they sailed for England on the 20th of June, and on the 3d o( September met with a Flemish vessel, from Lisbon, by which they learned the agreeable news of the total defeat of the Spanish Armada. On the 9ih of September, after a violent storm, which carried away the greater part of their sails, they arrived at Plymouth, from which they had been absent two years and something less than two months ; and soon afterward Mr. Cavendish received the honour of Icnighthood from Queen Elizabeth. BY OLIVER VAN NOORT. (being the first attejipted by the dutch.) 1598-1601. Several eminent Dutch merchants, about the beginning of the year 1598, formed the design of sending some stout vessels through the straits of Magellan, to cruise on the Spaniards in the South Seas, to which they were chiefly induced by the reports of many English seamen, who had served under Drake, Cavendish, #nd others. As the success of the en- terprise depended in a great measure on the capacity of the admiral, Oliver Van Noort, a native of Utrecht, a man in the flower of his age, was pitched upon to take charge of the e.N'pedition. Two stout vessels, the Maurice and the Henry Frederic, and two yachts, the Concord and the Hope, manned by two hundred and forty-eight persons, were appointed for this service. The Maurice was commanded by Oliver V^an Noort, admiral, the Henry Frederic by James Claasz, vice-admiral, the Concord by Peter Van Lint, and the Hope by John Huidecoope. The Maurice and the Concord sailed out of the pott of Goree on the 13th of September, 1598, and being joined by the Henry Frederic and the Hope from Amsterdam, they continued their voyage together for Plymouth, in order to take on board the clothes and other necessaries of their pilot, Mr. Mellish, an English gentleman, who had been abroad before with Sir Thomas Cavendish. , On the 21st they left Plymouth, with a fresh gale at north-east, and next morning missed the vice-admiral's shallop, with six men on board her, 552 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. in search of whom they began to entertain thoughts of returning to Ply- mouth ; but meeting with an English privateer, they learned that the fel- lows had designedly run away with the boat. The escape of these fellows, however, occasioned some "murmurings among the sailors, which were increased the next day by the vice-admiral's losing his other shallop, which he had in tow, with a man in her. On the 4th of October they met with a fleet of English, French, and Dutch, by whom they were informed of a dreadful pestilence which had lately destroyed two hundred and fifty thousand persons on the coast of Barbary. On the 4th of December they were otf Cape Palma, and on the lOlh came within sight of Prince's Island, possessed by the Portu- guese, in one degree north latitude, and sending their boats on sliore, carried a flag of truce, while a negro with some Portuguese met them with a similar token of peace. The Dutch asked for a supply of provi- sions, which the others seemed willing to grant ; but, while they were talking on tliis subject, a number of persons, who had lain in ambuscade, attacked them suddenly, and killed several, among whom were the admi- ral's brother and Mr. Mellish, the English pilot. It was detcrmmed in a councd of war to revenge this outrage by attacking the castle, but upon trial finding themselves unequal to this business, they burnt the suyar houses, and having taken in a supply of fresh water, set sail on tlie !7th for Gonsalvo, vv'here the winds blow from the sea in the day-time, and from the land at night. On the 1st of January, 1589, they passed the Island of Annobon, and on the 5th of February reached Cape St. Thomas, on the coast of Brazil, in twenty-two degrees south latitude. On the 9th they came to llio Janeiro, where the Portuguese kdled several of the crew. From Kio Janeiro they went to St. Sebastian, where they harboured in safety, and met with plenty of wood and water. On the I4lh of March encountered a violent storm, in which they were parted from the vice-admiral and the Hope, but had the happiness to meet again three days afterward. By this time winter beginning to approach, and the scurvy making some havoc among them, they proposed to put in at St. Helena, but miss!.ig that place, were driven on a desolate and barren island, where they found no provisions but a few fowls, which were knocked down with sticks ; they therefore put to sea again, and on the 1st of June, when expecting to have reached Ascension, they found themselves oft' the conlment of Brazil. The Portuguese not permitting them to land, they sailed to the little Island of St. Clara, about a mile f|pm the continent, where meeting with some herbs and a kind of sour plumbs, these cured all who were afflicted with the scurvy in fifteen days. On the 16ih of June thev sailed for Port Desire, which is betweet> forty-seven and forty- eight degrees south latitude, but having very bad weather, did not arrive there till the 20Lh of September. On an island three miles to the south of this pUce, they caught great quantities of fish, and took fifty thousand penguins, besides a vast number of oggs, which proved very refreshing food to those who were sick. On the 5th of October so;ne of the seamen went on shore, and found beasts like stags and buffaloes, and a great number of ostriches, in each of whose nests were nineteen eggs. The admiral proceeding also to take a view of the country, left strict orders for those who attended the boats not to leave them ; but disobeying his injunctions, some rambled into the coun- try, where they fell into an ambuscade of savages, who killed three and wounded a fourth. These savages were very tall, nearly naked, painted s OLIVER VAX NOORT. 53 their skins, and were armed with bows and arrows. Sailing hence on the 29th of October, they readied Cape Virgin Mary on the Sithof next month, and attempted to enter ihe straits of Magellan, but were prevented by contrary winds, rain, hail, and snow ; they also lost their anchors, and broke their cables ; and to add to the train of misfortunes, sickness raged much among the men, who began to com|ilain ; all which accidents uniting together, made it near tiltcen months from the beginning of the voyage, before they were able to enter the straits. On ihe 25ih of November perceived two islands near Cape Nassau, on which were some savages, who shook tReir weapons at them in token of defiance ; but the Hollanders landing, pursued them to a cave, which was obstinately defended, every man of the party dying on the spot. On this the Dutch entered the cave, where they found their wives and chil- dren ; and the poor woman expecting immediate death, covered their in- fants with their bodies, resolving to meet iheir fate in that posture ; but the Europeans only took away four boys and two girls, who were carried on board the ships. One of these boys being afterward taught to speak Dutch, informed them that the largest island was called Casteinme, and the other Talcke ; that they abounded in penguins, the flesh of which served the inhabitants for food, and the skin for clothing ; that they caught ostriches on the neighbouring continent, which they also ate ; and that they had no habitation but caves under ground. The inhalniauts were divided into four tribes, three of which were people of moderate stature, broad over the breast, which they always painted, and went naked, except a cloak of penguin skins which reached to their waist ; that the fourth tribe were people of a gigantic stature, being full ten feet high, and con- stantly at war with the other tribes. Leaving this place, they sailed toward tiie continent on the 28lh, seeing some whales at a distance, and observed a beautiful river, shaded with trees, covered with a number of parrots, to which place they gave the name of Summer Bay. On the 3'Jth proceeded to Port Fa.-nine, where they cut down wood to build a boat ; but finding no sood anchoring, doubled Cape Froward on the 2i of December, and, at the distance of four miles, found a large bay, in which they anchored in safety. Here they found a plant like sneezewort, which proved an excellent remedy for the scurvy ; and another plant, whicli, being tasted, caused the person who eat it to run distracted for a time, but soon afterward recovered. Oh the 2d of January, 16U0, departed for Maurice Bay, which was found to extend far to the eastward, receiving into it several rivers, the mouths of which were filled with ice, which seemed not to melt all the year round ; for though now near the middle of summer, it was still ten fathoms thick. In this place they were greatly distressed by continual rains and the want of provisions ; and two of their company going on shore to pick muscles, were murdered by the savages. Sailing on the 17th, they were driven by a storm into a bav at three miles disl-mce, which, from the number of penguins they found there, was called Goose oi Pen- guin Bay. At this place the vice-admiral was tried by a council of war for divers crimes, and sentenced to be set on shore to shift for himself in that inhospitable countrv. On the last of February they passed Cape Desire into the South Sea, their men being now reduced to one hundred and forty-seven ; and soon afterward they lost the Henry Frederic, of which the vice-admiral had been commander. Having waited some time in fruitless expectation of this vessel, they sailed, on the 1 2th of March to the Island of La Mocha, 5^ 64 VOVAGES ROUND THE 'WORLD. which hes in 38 degrees south latitude, about two leagues from the con- tinent. This island is lemarkable for a high mountain in the centre, in which is a large cleft, from whence runs a stream of water to the valleys below. Going ashore ai this plnce, they exchanged hatchets and knives for sheep, fowls, maize, and diflerent sorts of fruit. They also visited the town, which consisted of about fifty houses, built chiefly of straw, where the inhabitants entertained them with a sour liquor, called Cici, which is chiefly used at iheir grand entertainments, and is made by soak- ing maize in water. The people of this island purchase their wives, and every one may buy as many as he can keep; so that it sometimes hap- pens that a man, who has a number of handsome daughters, makes a fortune by the sale of them. They have no laws or magistrates among them ; but if a man kills another, the relations of the murdered person are both his judges and executioners, but will frequently remit his sen- tence for a treat of Cici. The clothes of the inhabitants are made of the wool of large sheep, which they also employ to carry burdens. Off St. Mary's Island, at the distance of six leagues, they chased and took a Spanish ship, which was carrying lard and meal to Aranco and Conception. The pilot informed them there were two men-of-war wait- ing for their coming at Arica ; on which they determined to sail to Val- paraiso, where they took two ships, and killed several Indians ; but the Spaniards had all left the place. Eighteen miles from Valparaiso, up the country, lies St. Jago, which abounds in red-wine and sheep ; these they kill only for the fat, with which alone they lade many vessels every year. At this town some letters asserted, that the Indians of Chili had risen against the Spaniards, sacked the town of Baldivia, took many prisoners, and destroyed great numbers. That they had burnt the hou3es and churches, and struck off the heads of the popish images, crying, " Down fall the gods of the Spaniards." About five thousand Indians were con- cerned in this action, who bore so perfect an enmity to the Spaniards, that ihey ripped open the breasts of all they conquered, merely to have the pleasure of tearing out their hearts with their teeth. These Indians had a peculiar method of electing their general : the man who carried a heavy log of timber on his shoulders for the longest time, was to com- mand in chief. Several carried it for four, five, or six hours, but at length one was found who bore its weight twenty-four hours, without resting ; and he was their present general. That part of Chili between Baldivia and St. Jago is one of the finest spots in the world, having a fine and wholesome air, being remarkably fertile, abounding in cattle and fruits of various kinds, and having abundance of gold mines. ()ii the 16th of September arrived at Guana, one of the Ladrones, which is twenty miles in extent, and produces fish, cocoa-nuts, bananas, and sugar canes, which the Indians brought in their canoes in great quan- tities to the ship. Two hundred of these vessels at a time, having each of them four or five men on board, would come bawling to the sides of the ships, calling out, " Hiero, Hiero," that is, iron, of which they are so eager, that they would frequently run against the ships and overset the canoes. Both the men and women were great cheats, and would sell a basket of cocoa-shells, covered with rice at the top, as a bas- ket of rice ; or would snatch a sword out of. the scabbard, or take any- thing else they could lay their hands on, and diving into the sea, make their escape. On the 17ih sailed for the Philippines, and three days after- ward met with ice, though they were then but in three degrees of north 'atitude. They anchored in Bayla Bay on the IClii 9f October, and pre • OLIVER VAN NOORT. 55 tending to be Spaniards, got well supplied with what provisions they wanted. The poor Indians of this place pay a tax of ten rials a head to the Spaniards for every one who is above the age of twenty. These people go naked, and mark their skins with figures so deep that they never wear out. After having got supplies here, tiiey were discovered, where- upon they sailed for the Strait of Manilla, and in their way met with a sudden gust of wind, which carried away their masts and sails. On the evening of the 23d they went on shore, and eat palmitos, and drank plentifully of water, soon after which several were seized with the bloody-flux. T 'On the 24th entered the strait, and in the evening passed the Island Capul, seven miles within the strait, and crowded all sail for Manilla, which is eighty luiles from Capul, but ihe wind was against them, besides which, they wanted the assistance of maps and a good pilot. On the 7th of November took a junk of China, laden with provision, for Manilla, the master of which informed them there were at that time at Manilla two large vessels, which came annually from New Spain thither ; and also a Dutch ship from Malacca ; that there was a wall round the to.vn, and that the harbour was defended by two forts ; that a prodigious trade was carried on in silks and other valuable commodities between Manilla and China, in which not less than four hundred ships were annually employ- ed ; and that two ships were daily expected from Japan, laden with pro- visions. On the 15th they took two barks laden with swine and poultry, intended as tribute for the Spaniards ; after which they lay at anchor in fifteen degrees north latitude, waiting for the Japan ships, one of which, of about fifty tons burthen, they took on the 1st of December ; this vessel was of a very uncouth shape ; her sails were made of reeds, her anchors of wood, and her ropes of twisted straw ; the people on board her were bald, except a small tuft of hair on the back part of the head. On the 9th they took two barks, one of which was laden with rice and poultry, and the other with cocoa, wine, and aqua vitse. On the 14th they fell in with the two Spanish ships from Manilla, on which a warm engagement ensued, when the Dutch admiral was attacked, and at length boarded by the Spaniards ; whereupon the admiral declared aloud that he would immediately blow up the ship if his men did not clear her of the Spaniards, and recover the fortune of the day. The Dutch, animated at once by hope and despair, fought like tigers, and not only drove the ene- my from their ship, but, in return boarding theirs, soon sunk her. In this action the Spaniards lost several hundreds, many of whom were drowned, while the loss of the Dutch amounted only to five killed and twenty-six wounded ; but by this time their whole number of hands able to do duty was no more than thirty-five. Continuing their voyage till the 26th, they came to anchor at Borneo, in a commodious bay three miles in compass, exchanging linen cloth for fish with the neighbouring fisher- men. The admiral sent a messenger to the king, desiring leave to trade, which was granted after the proper officers had been on board, and found that they were not Spaniards. On the first of January, lG01,the Borneans having laid a plot to seize the Dutch ship, a great number of natives came toward the vessel in a hundred little boats called proas, and pretending to have presents from the king, desired to be taken on board ; but the Dutch, suspecting theii intention, threatened to fire on them if they did not keep oil", upon which they desisted from the attempt. Tlie Island 9f tJorneo is the largest in the Ea^t Indies, and th^ ijapital 56 VOYAGES ROVKI i KE WORLD. city, which bears tho same name, consists of three thousand houses, but is built in such a low, wet situation, tliiit the inhabiiants are commonly obliged to go from one hou^e to anoiher in their proas. Every man goes armed ; and even the women are of so warlike a disposition, that if they are affronted, ihey seek their revenge by the dagger or javelin. A Dutch- man having offrnded one ot tiicse ladies, she attacked hnn witha javelin, and would soon have despatched hnn, had slie not been withheld by force. Tlie mhabitants profess tiie Mahometan religion, in the rites of which fhey are extremely superstitious. The people of fashion wear a cotton turban on the head, and a covering of linen Irom ihe waist downward : but the com- mon people go naked, and are constantly chewing the herbs called betle and areka. in the night of the 4ih of January, lour Borncans came to the ship, designing to cut tl'e cables that she might drive on shore, but the Dutch, discovering the design, tired at them, whereupon they made their escape, leaving their proa.behind, which the other seized, and being weary of Borneo and its inhabitaniSj sailed lot Bantam. On the 16th took a junk from Jor, on board of which was a skilful pilot, who conduct- ed them through those dangerous seas, where otherwise Ihcy would pro- bably have been lost ; for now they h id but one anchor left, the cable of which was almost worn out, and they were surrounded with a great number of small islands and shoals. On the 28ih they arrived at Jortan, on the' Island of Java, where they had news of Dutch ships being at Bantam, a city consisting of about a thousand houses, built of timber. "The king of this place commands a considerable part of thtit end of the island. The people are said to be Mahometans, but from the pagods still in uso among the common class, it ajipears that the superstitious practices of the Mussuhnen are intLTmi.xed with those of the Indian worship. Their chief-piiest was one hundred and twenty years of age, and had many wives, the milk of whose breasts was all his food. Sailing hence, they saw a Portuguese vessel, of six hundred tons burthen, run aground on the shoals, the crew of which said they were going to Amboyna to engross the trade of that place ; but the admiral, suspecting she had put to sea to cruise against then, left the crew to perish in that dreadful situation. They passed the straits of Sunda on the 5ih of February, and leaving Java on the north-east, steered for tho Cape of Good Hope. On the 18th had the sun vertictil at noon, after which they were becalmed for eleven days. On the 21th of April, at night, saw a light like hre about four miles to the north-west, which they had no idea of, as they were full 200 miles from the cape. On the 25th, at night, perceived auotlier fire, and the next morning discovered land bearing north-east, but continuing their course, arrived otf St. Helena on the 2f)th, where they refreshed themselves with good fresh meat, fish, and water. Leaving the island on the 30th, sailed homeward, but, by the 22d of July, were extremely distressed, being at short allowance of bread, and what they had was worm-eaten. . This distress increased daily till the ISlh of August, when they met three ships from Euibden, which gave them bread and fresh meat, for rice and pepper; and on the 2t)th of the same month, at noon, they ar- rived safely betore the city of Rotterdam, having been very nearly throe years on the voyacre. 57 CAPTAIN WILLIAM DAMPIER.— 1683-1705. Wii.LTAM Dampier, descended of a reputable family in Somersetshire, was born in the year 1052 : but having the misfortune to lose both his parents while very young, his relations neglected his education ; and his disposition strongly inclining him to the sea, he was, at the age of seven- teen, put apprentice to the masler of a ship at Weymouth, in Dorsetshire, with whom he made a voyage to France in the year 16G9, and another to New England in the year following. But in the second voyage, sufferincr so much from extreme cold, he lost much of that ardour for a maritime lite vvith which he had before been inspired ; so that on his return he retired to his friends in the country, proposing not to go to sea any more. Hearing, however, of an outward l)ound East India ship which was soon to sail, he came to London, entered himself as a foremast man, and made a voyage 10 Bantam, by which lie acquired considerable experience ; and returning to England in January, 1675, remained during th.e following sunnner at the house of his brother in Somersetshire. In U}T3 he served under Sir Etlvvard Spragge in two enganrements against the Dutch ; after vidiich he went again into Somersetshire, where he met with one Colonel Hillier, who, having a large estate in Jamaica, persuaded Mr. Dampier to go there and take the management of it ; but being soon weary of this employment, he engaged with Captain Hodsell to cut logwood in the Bay of Carnpeachy. This business beino- attended with prolit, he continued it for a considerable period ; and during this time, became acq\iainled with the bucariiers, wiih whom he afterward engaged ; but of which connexion he was at len-gth much ashamed. In the Bay of Carnpeachy he formed some projects for advancing his fortune ; which, however, made it necessary for him to return to England, where having raised what money he was able, he embarked for Jamaica in the beginning of tha year 1679. He arrived about the end ol April follow- ing, with a full intention to have furnished himself with all materials for carrying on tlie logwood trade ; but afterward altered bis resolution, and laid out the greater part of his fortune in the purchase of a small estate in Dorsetsliire. Soon after this he made an agreement with one Mr. Hobby io make a voyage to the Moskito sliore before he went to England. Soon after setting out, they anchori^d ofl'iN^igral Bay, at the west end of Jamai- ca, where (inding the Captains Coxon, Sawkins, Sharp, and others, going on a privateering exp.ediiion, Hobbv's men all engaged vvith them, and Dampit='r iinding no one left with Hobby but himself, consented to go also. Their first expedition was against l^orto Bello, which having accoinplishcd, tliey came to a resolution of crossing the Isthmus of Darien, to pursue their design in the South Seas. On tlie fifth of A|iiil, 1G80, they landed near Golden Island, being ia number upward' of oOO, and carrying vvith them all kinds of provisions, and plenty of toys to gratify the Indians. Marcliing Jiencc, in nine days they came to Santa Maria, wliich they plundered; but finding very little booty, after remaihing three days, they embarked on board canoes and other small vessels for the South Seas. On the 23d of April, being in sight of Panama, they made an unsuccessful attempt upon Puebla Nova, in which Captain Sawkins, who was commander-in-chief, was killed. On the Gih of June steered for the coast of Peru, and touching at the islands of Gorgonia and Plata, came to \ Io, which they took in tlie month of October. Arriving at Juan Fernandez about Christmas, they displaced Captai.'i Sharp, who had commanded in chief since the death of Sawkins 53 VOYAGtS ROUND THE WORLD. and made choice of Captain Watling in his room ; soon after which they made a fruitless attempt upon Africa, a strong town on the coast of reru, where Watlina and tweniy-eifiht of his men being killed, the crew di- vided themsel °es into two factions, some of whom were for restoring Cap- tain Sharp and others for excluding him. But the former party prevailmg, Dampier with the latter, being forty-seven in number, determined upoa cros:/j *or bread and beef which Captain Eaton wanted. GO VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. On the 24lh anchored in a bay on the south side of the Island Ot Juan Fernandez, within two cables' length of the shore. As soon as fully secured, they sent a boat with a Mosquito and two or three sailors to the shore in search of a Mosquito Indian, whom Captain Walling had left there three years before, having at that time concealed himself in the woods from 'the search of the Spaniards. He was soon found, for having the day before discovered an English sail, he had killed three goats to entertain the crew, running to the shore to meet them. As soon as he saw the other Indian he ran toward him, and having thrown himself with his face to the ground, embraced him with all the marks of tenderness, and then saluted his old friends the sailors, who he thought were come on purpose to bring him off the island. Some Spaniards who had heard of his being there, had often searched for him in vain, as he always took care to hide himself from them. This man was called Will, and the other Robert, for though the Mosquito In- dians had no names bv which they distinguish themselves, they take it as a favour if the Europeans will bestow one on ihem. Will had built himself a hut above half a mile from the sea-side, which he had lined with goats' skin, a piece of which he wore round him instead of his clothes, which had been worn out for some time ; he also made his bed of the same materials. When he was left on shore he had with him a knife, a gun, and a little powder and shot. When his ammunition w;'s expended, he made a saw of his knife by notching it, with which he sawed the barrel of the gun into small pieces ; then kindling a fire with his flint, worked the iron into a lance, fishing- hooks, and harpoons. These contrivarices were the result of necessity, founded upon what he remembered of the workmanship of the English smiths ; and indeed all the Mosquito Indians make their instruments with- out forge or anvil. With the help of these instruments, this poor fellow had subsisted upward of three years upon goals and such fish as he could catch. The voyagers sailed from the Island of .luan Fernandez, after a stay of fourteen days, on the 8ih of April, 1G84, in company with Captain Eaton, for the South Seas ; steering towaril the line otf the high land of Peru and Chili, at the distance of fifteen or si.xteen leagues from the shore, lest the Spaniards should discover Ihcm. Captain Eaton took a prize on the 3d of May, bound from Guaquil to Lima, laden with timber ; after which, steering within five leagues of the continent, they arrived at the islands of Ijobos de la Mar, which abound in penguins, boobies, and other fowls. These islands are eacli about a mile round, and to the west of one of them is a safe harbour, where Captain Cooke having Rcrublxid the ships, and examined the mr-n who were on board the prize, learned that the Spaniards, having intelligence of their being in those seas, would not trust their vessels to sea without a sutlicient guard, and therefore proposed to his men to make a descent upon Truxillo, a popu- lous town six miles from the port of Guanehagno. To this ihe crew unanimously agreed ; but changed iheir resolution on being acquainted that the people of Truxillo were erecting a fort near the harbour of Guanehagno. This information they received from the crews of three Spanish vessels, which they had taken, and which were bound to Panama with flour. They now resolved to bear away for the Gallapagos, a number of un- inhabited islands, lying under and near the line, on both sides of it. On the evening of the 3lst they anchored in sixteen fathom water, on the east s'de of one of the easternmost. WILLAIM DAMPIER. 6i Sdme of these islands are seven or eight leagues long, and three or four broad; they are mostly rocky and barren, having no grass except just on the sea-shore ; but they have tolerable good water in the cavities ©f the rocks. When they had remained twelve days, one of the Indian prisoners, born at Rio Leja, giving them an advantageous account of the riches of that place, and promising to conduct them thither, they set sail on the 12th of June, but, by the beginning of July, light winds and fair weather brought them within viev/ of Cape Blanco, in the Mexican Sea. Two or three leagues off Cape Blanco, Captain Cooke, who had been ill ever since he left Juan Fernandez, died ; and they unanimously chose Mr. Edward Davis, the company's quarter-master, captain in his room. As they came to an anchor in about four hours after Captain Cooke's death, near the mouth of a rivulet, the body was ordered on shore, to bo buried, under a guard of twelve men ; but while they were employed in digging his grave, three Spanish Indians came up ; whom the sailors conversed with for a time, and then suddenly seized ; but one of thent found means to make his escape. The two others being carried on board, and examined by Captain Eaton, were found to be spies from Nicoya, a small mulatto town, about fourteen leagues to the eastward of the cape, the inhabitants of which lived by tilling their ground and feeding their cattle on the plains, of which they had great numbers. As the men had tasted no fresh meat since leaving the Gallapagos, twenty-four persons, among whom was Dampier, with a Spanish Indian for a pilot, were despatched in two boats to bring off some cows and bulls from a farm at about a league distance from the ship. Hauling up the boat on dry land, the guide conducted thcin to the pen, which was situated in a large savannah, where there were a great number of horned cattle, which appeared very fat. Being weary, and night coming on, some were for resting till morning, and then killing what they wanted, while others were for proceeding to business immediately. Twelve of them, among whom was Dampier, relumed on board the ship, while the others chose to remain till the next morning ; but they had reason to repent of this rashness, for at break of day, when preparing to drive away as many cattle as they wanted, they were beset by forty or fifty Spaniards, who had concealed themselves among the bushes, and discharged several shot at them. They retired in as regular a manner as possible to their boat, which, to their great confusion, now appeared in flames ; the Spaniards keeping at a distance, and mocking their distress. Wadin<^ to a rock a little way into the water, where the Spaniards could not approach, they remained several hours in extreme distress, in danger of being swallowed by the sea, which flowed in very fast. In the meantime, those on board the ship, seeing nothing of the absentees by four o'clock in the afternoon, sent a canoe with ten men in search of them, bv whom they were found up to the middle in water, and in such a situation, as the sea continued to flow, that they must have been drown- ed if the canoe had come one hour later. At this place they seized three good canoes, and having provided them- selves with a quantity of lance wood, which is straight and heavy, to make looms for oars and scouring rods for guns, and taken in what wa- ter they wanted, they sailed on the 20th of July for Rio Leja, which may be discerned at sea at the distance of twenty leagues, on account of a remarkable burning mountain, by which it is distinguished. They intend- 6 63 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. ed to have landed here, but hnvinsj rowed in their canoes, and taken & distant view of the town, they found, by some commotions on shore, they were discovered, and therefore returned on board. It was now determined, in a conference between the captains, Davia and Eaton, to steer for the Gulf of Amapalia ; which being entered by the former with two canoes, in order to get a prisoner and obtain intel- ligence, he came tiie first night to Mangera. In the morning, observing several canoes hauled up in a bay, he landed there, and struck into a path which led to the town; but all the inhabitants fled to the woods, except an old priest and two Indian boys. These being made prisoners by Captain Davis, were brought to the sea-side, and compelled to con- duct him to the Island of Amapalla ; being landed, he proceeded to a town on the top of a hill, the inhabitants of which would have fled into the woods, but were prevented liy the secretary to the chief magistrate, who, though an Indian, couM read and write the Spanish language, but was an enemy to the Spaniards. This man having persuaded his countrymen that Captain Davis and his people were friends, who desired their assistance against their com- mon enemy, they bid them welcome ; whereupon the captain advanced at the head of his itTen toward the Indians, who came forward, led by the priest, and received them in a very friendly manner ; after which they proceeded toward the church to confer together. Davis intended, as soon as he had got into the church, to prevail on the Indians to lend him their assistance against the Spaniards ; and all things seemed in a fair way to succeed, when, just as they were entering the church, one of his men, who tiiought an Indian before him went on too slowly, pushed him forward, upon which the poor fellow, being frightened, ran hastily away, ahd all the others following him, the captain and the priest were left in the church by themselves. Not knowing what caused the confusion, the former ordered the men to tire upon the fugitives ; and his friend, the secretary, being killed at one of the first shots, his cor- respondence with these people was entirely at an end. The ships coming to an anchor near the Isle of Amapalla the same afternoon, Captain Davis and his men went on board, taking the friar with them ; who told them, that as the secret.iry was dead", the only thing they could do, would be to send for the cacique ; which being done, he came on board, attended by six of of his principal people, and beimr received in a very friendly manner, they remained on board as long as the ships lay in the gulf, directing them where to go for wood, and water,' and cattle, and readily alfordnig all the assistance in their power ; for which the captain rewarded them with some trifling presents, with which they departed highly satisfied. Sending the priest on shore, Captain Davis sailed out of the Gulf of Amapalla on the 3d of September. 16S4, leaving the cacique and his at- tendants in possession of one of the prizes, which was half full of flour. Captain Eaton had parted company the preceding dav, but though in less than three weeks he oliered to join Captain Davis again oflT the Island of Plata, yet Davis's men refused to share with Eaton's in such prizes as might fall into their hands The Island of Phua is prettv high, and surrounded with rocky cliflTs, ex- cept in one place, where a torrent of fresh water pours down from the rocks. It produces grass and three or four small Kinds of trees, which Dampier did not know the name of. It abounds with the birds called boobies, and the man-of-war bird ; and near the shore are plentv of small turtle, II 19 WILLIAM DAMPIER. 63 said to have been named La Plata., because here the rich pnze of plate, called the Cacafuego, was divided by Sir Francis Drake amoDg his men. They stayed here only one day, and then steered for Point St. Helena, which is a high flat land, bearing south from La Plata, in twenty-ihieo degrees fifteen minutes south latitude. On the north side is a large bay, on the shore of which stands a poor village, which is also called St. Helena, inhabited by Indians, who have neither grain, plants, nor fruit, but water melons, which are verv large and sweet ; they have neither spring nor river of any kind near them, and are obliged to fetch their fresh water from a river at four leagues distance. They live chiefly upon fish, except some maize procured in exchange for a bituminous substance, which the Spaniards call algatrane, which issue out of the earth above high-water mark, and which, when boiled, answers all the purposes of pitch. The captain landed some men here, who seized a small bark, which they preserved from being burnt, the Indians having set it on fire, as they affirmed, by command of the viceroy ; they also took a few prisoners, from whom it appeared the viceroy had commanded all seamen to burn their vessels, and take to their boats, if they should happen to fall in the way of the English bucaniers. The men coming back the same evening, they sailed again for the Island of Plata, and anchored on the 26th of September, immediately sendmg some of the men to Manta, an Indian village three leagues west of Cape Lorenzo. The inhabitants, perceiving their approach, fled from the town, except two decrepid old women, who declared the viceioy, having heard that a number of men had marched over-land through Darien to the South Seas, had ordered the ships to be burnt, the goats on the Island of Plata to be destroyed, and no provisions kept there but what was wanted for immediate use. As the alarm which had t)e^n spread through the country prevented their finding any booty, they returned on board, and the next dav sailed back to the Island of Plata, where having waited till the 2d of October, and being undetermined what vourse to take, they were then joined by Captain Swan, in the Cygnet. This ship was from London, on a tra- ding voyage, but havmg met with many disappointments, his men had forced him to take on board a party of bucaniers, who had travelled over the Isthmus of Darien, under the command of Captain Peter Harris, who, having a small bark, and being now three in company, they earnestly wished to meet with Captain Eaton, as they hoped, with such a force, to be able to undertake an expedition of some consequence. The bark was therefore immediately sent in search of him, with a letter of invitation to share their fortune ; but she did not meet him, he having lately quitted those seas, as it was iinagined, for the East Indies ; a scheme which he had for a long time proposed to execute. The bark, however, which had been three days cruising, took a prize of 400 tons, laden with timber, bound from Guaquil to Lima ; the master of which said the viceroy of Peru was fittini; out ten frigates to drive them out of those seas. This news, though disagree^ible, did not. discou- rage them from making a descent upon Payta, where, on the 2d of Novem- ber, they landed 110 men, and having seized upon the town, ke|)t posses- sion of it for several days, in hopes the iiihribitants would have redeemed it ; but that not being done, they set it on fire, and retired to the ships. The captains had oti'cred to spare the town for 300 sacks of flour, 3,000 pounds of sugar, 2.5 jars of wine, and 1,000 jars of water; but these moderaio conditions were slighted. 64 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. They left the Bay of Payta on the 10th of November, at i.ight, and arrived at Lobos de'la Mar on the 19th, where the Mosquito men struck a great number of turtle. Here they came to a resoiuiion of attacking Guaquil, which is situated in a bay of tlie same name, between Cape Blanco on the south and Point Chandy on the north ; and at the bottom of the bay lies a small island, shaped Lke a dead man in a shroud, called St. Clara. Having heretofore had a design against Guaquil, they left the ships at Cape Blanco, and steered with a bark and some canoes to the Isle of St. Clara, and ihence in two canoes to Point Arena, whore they the next day took some of the fishermen of Puna, and afterward seized the town. On the ebb they took a bark coming from Guaquil, laden with Quito cloth, from the master of uhieh they learned there were three barks full of negroes coming with the next tide. Leaving five men on board the prize, they embarked all the rest in canoes, and proceeded toward GuHquil, but the canoes being heavily laden, it was break of day before they got within two leagues of the town ; whereupon they hid themselves all day in a neighbouring creek, and sent one of the canoes back to the bark, with orders not to fire at anything till next drty. Before they arrived with these directions, two barks filled with negroes coming out of the harbour with the evening tide, and falling down with the ebb toward Puna, corning within sight of the English, they fired three guns at them ; which put these in the canoes in great conster- nation, not doubting but the people of the town had taken the alarm. Some of the company were now for advancing to the town immediately, and others for returning to the ships ; but as the ebb tide prevented their going upward. Captain Davis, with fifty of his men, determined to march by land to the place ; the rest, judging it impossible to succeed, conti- nued in the creek to wait the event. After an absence of four hours. Captain Davis and his men, being almost choked among the mangrove woods, which grew in the marshes, and finding it iinpossil>le to go forward, returned. It was then determined to row up within sight of the town, and, if they found themselves dis- covered, to retire without attempting to land ; therefore, rowing through the north-east channel, they got within view of the town during the night ; when, on a sudden, at the discharge of a musket, they perceived the whole place to he full of lights, and as lliey had seen but one before, they certainly concluded that they were discovered ; but several of them observing that the Spaniards used lights on the evenings preceding their festivals, and that the iie.Kt was a holyday, they upbraided Captain Swan and his men with cowardice. On this, all the party landed at a place about two miles from the town, which being over-iun with woods, they were forced to wait for day-light ; when, having an Indian guide, whom they had taken three days belore, a cord was tied to him, and he was led by one of Captain Davis's men, who seemed one of the most forward in the enterprise ; but now, perhaps, beginning to repent his rashness, cut the rope, and let the Indian escape into the town. When he thought the fellow was at a proper distance, he cried out that someiiody had cut the rope ; vk'hen the company, having searched in vain for the fugitive, determined to abandon the enterprise ; however, they landed on the opposite shore, and killed a cow, which was dressed and ate, undisturbed by the inhabitants. On the 9th of December returning to Puna, on their way took the two barks above-mentioned, and finding a thousand negroes on board, kept WILLIAM DAM PIER. 65 about sixty, and left the rest, with the barks, behind, and soon saw th«m make the shore. Mr. Dampier seems of opinion that this was a very impolitic proceeding, and that if they had taken these people directly over the Isthmus of Darien, they might have been able to have worked the gold mines of St. Maria ; an undertaking which would have been so well supported by the English and French privateers from all parts of the West Indies, that they might have been able to have stood their ground against all the power of Spam in that part of the world ; and in time have been strong enough to have extended their conquests to the wealthy gold mines of the province of Quito. Setting sail on the 13lh, in three days arrived at La Plata, on their way to which they met the bark which had been sent in search of Cap- i,ain Eaton, of whom they had got no intelligence. Here they divided the cloth which they had taken on board the bark ; and having supplied themselves with fresh water, resolved to steer for Lavelia, a town in the Bay of Panama. Accordingly they sailed on the 23d, and the next morning passed in sight of Cape Passao, a high round point, covered with fruit trees on the land side, but bare toward the sea. Between this and Cape Fran- cisco are abundance of small points, full of various ki'^.ds of trees, which enclose so many sandy creeks. As their design was to search for canoes in some river unfrequented by the Spaniards, they endeavoured to make the Island of St. Jago, on account of its vicinity to the Isle of Gallo, where there was safe anchor- age for the ships, and gold in great plenty. The River of St. Jago is large and navigable ; about seven leagues from the sea it divides into two branches, surrounding a large island, the mould of which is of a deep black, producing a number of tall trees, among which the largest are the cabbage tree, and those of red and white cotton. The cabbage is the tallest, and Mr. Dampier measured one that was 120 feet long. It has no branches but near the top, where they sprout out to the length of twelve or fourteen feet, covered with small long leaves, in such regular order, that at a distance they appear but as one leaf. In the middle of these branches grows the fruit, which is as big as a man's leg, about a foot long, as white as milk, and very sweet, whether eaten raw or boiled. As soon as the head is gone the tree dies ; for which reason they cut it down to gather the fruit. Between the cab- bage and the branches many small twigs sprout forth, about two feet long, at the end of which grow hard round berries, about the size of a cherry, which, falling once a year, afford escellent food for the hogs. The body of the tree is full of round rings from top to bottom, about half a foot asunder ; the bark is thin and brittle, the wood black and hard, and there is a white pith in the middle of the tree. The pleasing verdure of these trees is a great ornament to the grove, and they are much used by the planters of Jamaica. The continual rains which fall in this part of Peru, added to the natu- ral ferocity of the inhabitants, which it appears im[)ossible to tame, have prevented the Spaniards from making any considerable discoveries on this coast; and the people bear so mortal a hatred to the Spaniards, and are 80 jealous of all other Europeans, that whoever attempts to row up the river must lie exposed to their ambuscades on each side ; and they are iuch excellent marksmen that their arrows seldom miss their aim. Nvtwithijtanding these dangers, Dampier and ^ome other? ventured B6 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. to row six leagues up the river, till they came to two huts, ^vhere they found a hog, which appeared to be of the European kind, and some fowls and plantams, which tliey dressed and fed very heartily upon ; while the poor Indians who owned them, seeing their approach, took their wives and chddren into canoes, and paddled away with such expedition, that there was no possibility of following them. On the opposite side they saw many huts, which, like these, were covered wiih Palmetto leaves, but the stream being very rapid, they were afraid to venture farther up ; so that after a day's excursion they returned to their ships, which were stationed off Gallo, a small uninhabited island, about three leagues from the mouth of the River Totnaco, and four and a half from an Indian villacre of the same name. At twelve o'clock on the following night they made a descent, and going into one of the houses, seized upon all the inhabitants, among whom was Don Diego de Pmas, a Spanish knight, who was come ihither to load timber ; but finding nothing in the vessel that brought hitn but thirteen jars of wine, they took them out, and turned the vessel adrift While proceeding in canoes from Tomaco toward Gallo, on the 1st of January, 16S5, they seized a Spanish packpt-boat going from Panama to Lima, by which they learned that the Armada was arrived from Spain at Porto Bello, where it wnited for the Plate fleet from Lima : on this thev changed their resolution of going to Lavelia, resolving to rendezvous among the King's or Pearl islands, by which the ships, bound from Lima to Panama, must necessarily pass. The Pearl islands are numerous, low, and woody ; seven leagues from the continent, and twelve from Panama. Dampier says, that though in the maps they are called Pearl islands, he could not find one pearl oyster near them. The most northern island is called Pachea or Pacheque, and St. Paul's is the most soutliernly : all the rest, though large, having no names. The negroes who belong to the inhabitants of Panama liavo planted some of these islands with plantains, bananas, and rice. The channel between them and the continent is seven or eight leagues broad, of a moderate depth, and has good anchoring all along it ; and though the islands lie close together, there arc good chanels between them, proper for boats. Having sent their barks on a cruise toward Panama, they returned on the fourth day with a prize, laden with maize, salted beef, and fowls. They found abundance of oysters in the harbour, together with muscles, limpets, and cl^ms, which last are a kind of oysters that clmg so close to the rocks that, to be eaten, they must be opened on the spot. They also found turtle-doves and pigeons here. The ships being well careened by the 14th of February, they took in wood and water, and sailed out among the islands, where, on the 16th, they anchored within a league of the Island of Pachei)up, and on the 18th steered, with a north-east wind, directly toward Panama, anchorinor oppo- site Old Panama, once a place of considerable consequence, but the greatest part being laid in ashes by Sir Henry Morgan in 1673, it was never rebuilt. New P mama, which stands on the river-side, four leagues from the old town, is a handsome city, watered by several rivers, some of which have gold in them, and run into the bay. The houses arc chiefly of brick ; and with the churches, monasteries, and president's house, make the best appearance of any buildings he saw in that country. This place has a view of many pleasant islands, and from the variety of hills, valleys, groves, WILLIAM DAMPIER. 67 and plains around it, affords a most enchanting prospect from the sea. It is encompassed by a high sione wall, on which a number of guns are mounted, which formerly were placed only on the land side, but now are also planted toward the ocean. The city has a vast trade, being the stajile for all goods to and from all parts of Peru and Chili ; besides that, every three years, when ihR Spanish ships go to Porto Bello, the Plate fleet comes hither with the king's plate, as well as what belongs to the merchnnts, whence il is car- ried by mules to Porto Bello ; and at that lime everything seemed ex- cessively dear. On the 20th of March they anchored about a league from the Perico islands, and on the 2 1st another prize fell into their hands, laden with hogs, beef, fowls, and salt, from Lavelia. Three days aftt-r taking this vessel, they steered for Tobauo, an island m the Bay of PaiiHtna, three miles long and one broad, the soil of which produces plenty of plantains and bnnaiias, together wiih cocoa and niam- mee trees; which last are sixty or seventy feet high, wiihout knots or boughs, except at the lop, where some small branches sprout out, thick, and close together ; the fruit is of the bigness of a hirge quince ; round, any arrived on the 28th, and having some thoughts of making an attempt upon Pjnama, examined some prisoners as to its strength. But though now mustering 1000 men, they were diverted from the attempt on being informed that the inhabitants had been greatly reinforced from Porto Bello, and that the height of the walls and the strength of the place were very considerable. They sailed again for the Pearl islands on the 4th of May, and cruised till the 23d, when they sent three canoes to the Island of Chepelio to take some prisoners ; who returned on the 25th with three seamen of Panama, who informed them that a strict order had been issued there not to fetch any plantains from the adjacent islands, which had occasioned a great scar- city ; and that the arrival of the fleet from Lima was every day expected. On the south side of the Island of Pacheque are two or three small islands, between which the fleet lay at anchor, and then consisted of ten sail, two of which only were men-of-war. Captain Davis's ship carried thirty-nine guns and 156 men; Captain Swan's, si.\teen guns and 140 men. The rest were provided only with small arms, and they mustered in all 960 men ; they had also one fire-ship. About eleven o'clock the weather, which had been very bad, beginning to clear up, they discovered the Spanish fleet at the distance of three leagues ; and about three in the afternoon bore down right upon the Spaniards, who kept close on a wind, to come up with them ; but night coming on before they came to close quarters, thev could only exchange a tew shot, one of which took effect, and killed a manm one of the privateers ^^'ILLrAM DAMPIER. 69 When it began to grow dark, the admiral put out a liglit at his top, as a signal for the fleet to come to an anchor, which they took down again in about half an hour, but it soon appeared as before. The English, supposing it to be in the admiral's top, and being to the windward, kept under sad, but found themselves deceived in their expectations, by a stratagem contrived by tlie Spaniards ; who, having put this second liglit on the top-mast head of one of their barks, sent her to the leeward ; so that in the morning the English found that the enemy had the weather- gage of them, and coming up with a full sail, they were obliged to make a running fight of it all the next day, almost round the Bay of Panama ; and in the end they anchored under the Isle of Pacheque. Captain Townley being hard passed by the enemy, was forced to make a bold run through the channel between Pacheque and three adjacent islands. Captain Harris was forced from them during the figlit ; and Captain Gronet, with 308 men, in the flour prize, of ninety tons burthen*, kept at a distance while there was any appearance of danger ; for which it was the next day agreed to dismiss him with his men, most of whom where French ; and permitting him to keep the ship, he was ordered to leave the company immediately. Though the Spanish fleet consisted of fourteen sail, besides periaguas, or boats of twelve or fourteen oars, yet the English had but one man killed. The loss of the Spaniards is not known ; and it is thought that if Gronet had continued firm, they might easily have made themselves masters of the fleet and its treasure. The whole fleet set sail from Pacheque on the 1st of June, for the Isle of Quibo, in search of Captain Harris, whom they expected to meet there, as it was the place of general rendezvous, and he was accordingly there before their arrival. It was now immediately agreed that, as they had been unsuccessful in their late attempt, they would try their fortune by land, by attacking the city "■f Leon, on the coast of Mexico. This town stands twenty miles up the country, in a plain ; the houses, which have large gardens, are ouilt of stone, and covered with pantiles : it has a cathedral and five churches, and from the pleasantness of its situ- ation, some travellers have called it the Paradise of the West Indies. Near it is a high volcano,'which, at times, casts forth smoke and flames, and may be seen from the sea : it has a good manufiictory of hemp, is rich in sugar, pasturage, and cattle ; but is a place of no great trade. They began their march about eight o'clock in the morning, Captain Townley, with 100 of the best men, leading the van : Captain Swan followed him with 100 more ; and Captains Knight and Davis brought up the rear with 170. Captain Townley was attacked, on his entering the town, by a party of 200 Spanish horse and 500 foot ; but two or three of the principal officers being dismounted, the horse fled, and the foot seeing them retire follow- ed their example, abandoning the city to the mercy of the enemy. In about four hours all the English entered the town, except a few, who, being tired, were left upon tlie road ; among these was an old gray- headed fellow, of the name of Swan, who had served under Oliver Crom- well in Ireland, and was eighty-four years of age. On his absolutely refusing to take quarter, the Spaniards shot him dead ; but they took several other prisoners, among whom was one Mr. Smith, who, having lived in the Canaries, spoke the Spanish tongue fluently. Smith being carried before the governor, and examined with regard to the strength of the invaders, represented them to be 1500 men 1000 in the town and 70 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 500 in canoes ; which well-timed piece of deceit had such an effect upon his excellency, that though he was at the head of more than 1000 men, he did not choose to attack the enemy, but sent a fl:Hg of truce the next day to propose a ransom for the town. But the English demandmg provisions for 1000 men for four months, and 30,000 pieces of eight, he did not choose to comply with the demand ; and therefore they fired the city on the 14th of August, the next morning marching toward their canoes. A gentleman, who had been taken prisoner, was delivered back in ex- change for Mr. Smith, and a Spanish gentleman was released, on pro- mising to deliver 150 oxen at Rio Leja, where they intended to make their next attempt. They rowed in their canoes toward Rio Leja on the 16th of August, where their ships were by thct time come to an anchor. This is a beautiful place, seated a mile from the harbour, on the mouth of a river, on a small plain, and has three churches, and an hospital with a handsome garden to it ; but is situated in an unwholesome air, near some fens and marshes, which occasion a noxious smell. The creek that leads from Rio Leja has a broad entrance, but afterward closes into a narrow, deep channel covered on both sides with cocoa trees. A mile from the entrance of the creek it winds to the west, where the Spaniards cast up an entrenchment, which was defended by 120 men, and farther down had laid a boom of trees across the creek ; but as soon as ihe English had fired two guns the Spaniards quitted their post, and left the enemy to take the town, which they did without opposition. They here found only empty houses, except five hundred sacks of flour, some pitch, tar, cordage, and some sugar in the neighbourhood, together with the hundred and fifty oxen which had been promised by the Spanish gentleman whom they released at Leon. The bucaniers staid here a week, and then set fire to the town, though Mr. Dampier declares himself Ignorant by whose order it was done. On the 25th of August, Davis and Swan parted, the former being dc- terminp.d to try his fortune on the coast of Peru, and the latter proposing to proceed farther to the west. Captains Knight and Harris went with Da^is, and our author on board Captain Swan, who was joined by Captain Townley with his two barks. About this time they all sufiered very considerably by a malignant fever, which carried otf many of the men, and was supposed to be the remains of a fever contracted at Rio Leja. On the 27ih, Davis sailed out of the harbour. Swan complimenting him with fifteen guns, which he answered by eleven. Swan and Townley sailed on the 3d of September, with 340 men, steering westward, having bad weather all along the coast, together with thunder and lightning, which kept them at sea till the 14th, when they discovered the volcano of Guatimaia, a high forked hill, Vvfhich, before bad weather, generally emits smoke and flames. It derives its name from the city of Guatimaia, which stands at its foot, eight leagues from tho South Sea, and forty or fifty from the Gulf of Matique in the B.Hy of Hon- duras, in the north seas. It is esteemed a rich city, the country round abounding in several commodities, which are exported thence into Europe, especially the four useful dyes, cochineal, sylvester, annatta, and indigo. The sea is full of drift wood and pumice stones, even at some lengues distance from Guatimaia, which are supposed to be brought down from the mountam by the frequent and violent rains. WILLIAM DAMPIER. tl On the 24th, being in fourteen degrees and thirteen minutes north lati- tude, Captain Townley went on shore, taking with him nine canoes and 106 men, proposing to march to a town called Teguantapeque, situated some- where in the neighbourhood, in hopes to have procured some provision for the sick men, as great numbers of the crew were in a very weak, condition. Not being able to find the town, Captain Townley returned on board the 2d of October ; but being determined to try his fortune once more, he ran his canoes ashore in a sandy bay, where he landed with the loss of one man and most of his powder spoiled by the canoea oversetting ; and was no sooner on shore, than he was attacked by a partj of 200 Indians and Spaniards, whom, with some difficulty, he repulsed. Having again joined Captain Swan, they set sail with fair weather, and the wind at east-north-east, keeping a westv^'ard course, and having run about twenty leagues, they came to the Island of Tangola, where there is a good anchorage, with plenty of wood and water. Sailing thence one league farther, they came to the Port of Guatulco, one of the best in the kingdom of Mexico. About a mile from the cast side of the harbour ia a small island ; but the west side is the safest for shipping, affording shelter from the south-west winds, which are frequently violent, the water dashing furiously under the bottom of a rock, which it has under- mined, and which is perforated quite throucrh, forming, even in the calm.- est season, a natural jet d'eau ; and affording a good mark to seamen bound for this port. At the bottom of this harbour, which is a mile broad, and three miles in depth, there is a fine brook of fresh water, near which formerly stood a town sacked by Sir Francis Drake ; all that re- mains of which, at present, is an old chapel standing in the midst of a group of trees. Captain Swan, being unwell, went on shore at this place with the sick people and a surgeon, while Townley headed a parly who marched to ' the eastward in search of houses and inhabitants ; and at a league from Guatulco came to a river called Capulita, which has a swift current, and is very deep. Some of the men swimming across the stream, seized two Indians, whom they apprehended were placed there as sentinels to watch their proceedings, though these were unacquainted with the Spa- nish tongue. They clirried one on board the ship, and made use of the other to conduct them to an Indian settlement, where they found plenty of vinello, a perfume used in the West Indies, where it bears a high price, to infuse into chocolate, to which it gives a delicate flavour. It is a pod of four inches long, full of black seed, arising from a yellow flower, and produced by a kind of vine tJiat grows up the trees which are near it, adhering to them like ivy They sent four canoes to the westward on the 10th of October, in hopes of taking prisoners who had some knowledge of the country. The canoes were ordered to wait at Port Angelo for the ships, which on the 12th left the hart)Our of Guatulco, where they had taken in wood and water, and caucrht a considerable number of small turtle, which, as they had eaten no meat for a consideralile time, were a great refreshment. Two of the canoes returned on the 22d, bf'ing separated from the rest, and having attempted to land at a place where they saw many black cattle feeding upon savannas ; but the sea running high, they were overturned ; four g:ms were lost, the rest of the arms sjjoiled with the wat^r, and one man drowned. They had no news of the other two canoes till the 31st, when Captain Townley, who lay near the shore, hearing the firing of guns, mamied one of his canoes, and stood in for the land. In the middle of «J'2 VOYAGES ROUND THE WOKLD. a salt water lake, at a distance within land, he saw the two canoes lying upon their oars, and perceiving by their disposition that they were bese^ on both sides, immcaiately put his men on shore, upon the approach of whom, some Spaniards, who being sheltered by the rocks had hred upon ihem, took to their heels, leaving the passage free to go out ; but they must certainly have starved or fallen a prey to the cruelty of the enemy, if Townley had not relieved them m this timely manner. HavhicT thus recoveied their canoes, they sailed on the 2d of ISovember, and heldl westward course, till they arrived at a large river, two leagues from the rock of Ali^atross, on the banks of which the Spaniards had raised a breast-work, which was defended by 200 men, notwithstanding which the English landed and obliged them to fly, after they had dis- charged twenty or thirty guns without effect. They now marched about three learrues up the country, and having taken a mulatto prisoner, he said that a ship, richlv luden, was lately arrived at Lima from Acapulco ; upon which Townley proposed cutting her out of the harbour, and not- withstanding Captain Swan's remonstrances on the danger and difficulty of the attempt, and his representing the necessity they were under of supplying themselves with maize and other provisions, which abounded in the pface where they now were, he carried his point ; and the canoes were accordingly manned for the expedition. They, however, were much damaged, narrowly escaping being lost in a tornado, and were afterward obliged to wait a whole day in Port Marquis, a league to the eastward of Acapulco. Here having dried their clothes and arms, they rowed softly, on the following night, into the harbour of Acapulco ; but on their arrival, found the ship so well guarded, as to be obliged to abandon the enterprise, and return in a very desponding condition. Landing afterward to the north-west of Pataplan hill, they marched, to the number of 170, a few mil'is up the country, to an Indian village, in which there was no provision**, nor any inhabitants to be found but a poor mulatto woman and four children, whom they carried aboard. The woman declared that a number of mules, laden with flour and other goods, de- signed for Acapulco, had stopped on the west of the village ; upon which information they sailed te a harbour called Chequetan, wh-^re, on the 9th, they landed ninety-five men, who having the woman for their guide, con- ducted them through a pathless wood into a plain, near which, at a farm- house, they found si-xty males laden with flour, cheese, chocolate, and earthen- ware ; all of which were carried off except the earthen- ware. They also discovered plenty of black cattle, upon which Captain Swan went on shore and killed eighteen. Quilting this river on the 21st of Novpmber, by the help of a land wind from the north, continued their course, in hopes of discovering the town of Cupan, supposed to be situated in about 18 decrrees north latitude, but they could neither find this place nor the city of Colina, which was said to be very rich. They now rowed twenty leagues along shore, but could find no place convenient for landing, nor the least sign of inhabi- tants ; at length they saw a man on horseback, and having made the shore with some difficulty, pursued him, but soon lost sight of the fugitive in the woods, where they could find no track. Disappointed and dejected, they returned to their ships on the 28th, and next day 200 men were sent in canoes in search of a town called Sallagua. As they rowed along, saw two horsemen on shore, one of whom drank to them out of a pocket-bottle in derision, in return for which one of the canoes fired a shot, which killed the horse under him aftet WILLIAM DAMPIER. 7^ which his companion rode off; two of the men stripping, swam on shore to secure the dismounted man, but defending himself with a long knife, while they were unarmed, could not succeed in the attempt. On the 30th returned again to their ships, the sea running too high to find a convenient place for landing ; but on the 1st of December came in sight of the Port of Sallagua, which appears like two harbours, being parted by a high rocky point in the middle. Here they saw a number of Spaniards, both horse and foot, who made a military parade, with drums beating and colours flying ; but 200 of the bucaniers landing the next morning, the foot did not stand a single charge, and the horse soon fol- lowed. Two of the English having knocked two Spaniards off their horses, mounted and pursued the others so far that they were surrounded by them ; and would have undoubtedly been killed, if some of the swiftest of their companions had not come to their rescue just in time : as they had stood the discharge of several pistols, and were already unhorsed. Here was a broad stony road, which they were informed by two mulattops, prisoners, led to the city of Oarrah, distant four long days' journey, the country being very thin of inhabitants all the way ; and that the troops they had put to flight were sent from that city to secure the Manilla ship which was to set some passengers on shore there. On this they sailed on the 6th, intending to cruise off Cape Corientes, to wait for the ship; on the 11th, being within sight of the cape, they stationed themselves so as they imagined she could not pnss ; but being in want of provisions, fifty or sixty men went in a bark to procure some, to the west of the cape, which being unable to get round, were obliged to return ; however, they left some men behind them in four canoes, who inteniled to row to the west. On the 24th, the four canoes meeting with ■very indifferent success, returned to the ships near the cape, having, by the help of their canoes, got round it and landed in the Valderas, or valley of flags. This vale lying at the bottom of a deep bay, is about three leagues wide. On the land side it is bounded by a green hill, which, descending gradually into the valley, affords a delightful prospect, rendered still more beautiful by the wide-spread pastures stored with cattle, and the pleasant groves of guaivas, orange, and lime trees, which grow wild here in prodigious numbers. In this delightful place the canoes landed thirty-seven men, who, advancing three miles into the country, were at- tacked by 150 Spaniards, horse and fool ; when, to avoid the trampling of the horses, the bucaniers retired to a close wood, where they sustained the attack of the enemy with great bravery, killing the leader and seven- teen of the horsemen, and the rest flying. The English lost four men, besides two wounded, who were brought down to the canoes upon horses ; one of the latter they were obliged to kill and eat, for though there were plenty of horned cattle upon the savanna, they were afraid to venture there again, their enemies being too strong. On the 25th. being Christmas day, they regaled on some Jew fish ; and, on the 23th, Captain Townley returned on board with forty bushels of maize, which he had taken at an Indian village up the country, five leagues to the east of Cape Corientes. Their provisions being again exhausted, they steered to the vale of Valderas, to provide a supply of beef, coming to an anchor about a mile from the shore, in sixty fathom water. Here 240 men landed, fifty of whom were appointed to watch the motions of the Spaniards (who frequently appeared in large com- panies, but dared not attack them) while the rest were employed in kill- ing and salting as many cows as would suffice for two months, their salt 7 74 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. being insufficient for a longer time. Here spending six or seven days, the Manilla ship passed by to the eastward, as they afterward learned from some prisoners whom they happened to seize. The loss of this prize is attributed to the wilfulness of Captain Townley, who would insist on attempting to take the Lima ship in the harbour of Acapuico, when they ought to have been providing themselves with beef and maize, which afterward, being absolutely in want of, they were compelled to do, while the ship escaped them. Townley's chief view in cruising in these seas being the hope of meeting the ship, and that now being at an end, he and Swan parted company ; Swan keeping on a westward course, and Townley going back to the east ; but the former alone it is our bu- siness to follow. Sailing from the bay on the 7th of January, 1686, with a good wind at north-east, at night passeo by Point Pontiqiie, the most westerly end of the valley of Valderas. On the 20th, anchored on the east side of the Chametly islands, which are si.x in number, and lie in twenty-three degrees eleven minutes north latitude. Here Captain Swan, taking 100 men with him, proceeded to the north- ward to discover the River CuUacan, supposed to lie in a province of the same name, in twentv-four degrees north latitude, and to have a wealthy town on its banks. They rowed thirty leagues without seeing any signs of the river, or any place where to land with safety ; but afterward dis- embarked on the west side of a salt lake, seven leagues from the Chametly islands, where they found some few bushels of maize in a fjirmiiouse, and took a prisoner. This rnan informed them there were generally a considerable number of black cattle in that place, which the Spaniards had driven off; but that in all probability they would find pro- visions in an Indian town about five leagues distance, to which they im- mediately marched. Here they were opposed, on attempting to enter it, by a considerable party of Spaniards and Indians, whom they repulsed at the first charsje ; and entering the place, foimd two or three wounded Indians, who told them the town was called Massactan, and that there were two rich gold mines about five leagues distant. On the 2d of February, eighty men were sent lo a town called Rosario, situated on a river of the same name ; and though they were told the mines were not above two leagues ihence, yet, as they were more in want of provisions than of gold, they psid no regard lo the information, contenting them- selves with carrying otf about nmety bushels of maize. Quitting Rosario for the River of St. Jago, in hopes of finding a town of some consequence, seventy men were sent up the river in canoes, while the ships anchored at its mouth. They soon found a corn-field, and while busy gathering maize, took an Indian, who informed them that four leagues farther was a town called Sunta Pecaque. As soon as the news went on board. Captain Swan ordered eight canoes and 140 men to proceed with the Indirin to the place. They sailed some miles up the river, and then landing, marched through woods and plains for three or four hours, and then approaching the town, and the Spaniards quitting it, the bueaniers entered without opposition. The town of Santa Pecaque, near which are some silve*- mines, is situated in a large plain on the borders of a wood. It is neatly built, but not large, has a square market- place in the middle, and two churches. Here they found plenty of salt fish, salt, sugar, and maize, and the captain dividing his people into two companies, ordered half to carry the provisions on board, and the other half to take care of the town ; WILLIAM DAMPIER, 75 they continued this business for two days, but a mutinous spirit gettinm among the men, they refused to march wilh the regularity the captain wished, so that fifty-four horses, guided by fifty men, who were convey- ing maize to the canoes, were attaciied by the Spaniards, who kdle.d them every one upon the spot ; and though Captain Swan marched to their relief, the enemy, who it is likejy had paid pretty dear for the vic- tory, nevei attempted to attack him ; the rest of the men returned safciv on board with their commander. On the day following this unhappy engagement, the ca})tain gave oj ders for filling water and sailing ; accordingly, they got under sail the 21st, steering toward California. On the 7th of February, anchored at Prince George's Island, the middlemost of the Tres Marias, at which place our autnor, v\ho was much atHicted with the dropsy, -was buried for about half an hour up to the neck in the hot sand, which producing a plentiful jjerspiralion, he was then wrapped up warm, and put to bed in a tent, by which means he obtained great relief in the disorder. I'hey remained here careening till the 26th ; but as no fresh water could be got, it being a dry season, they sailed to a rivulet on the continent, near Cape Cori entes, where they remained for some time ; and having had but indilTerenl success in these parts, came to a resolution of steering for the East Indies, to which voyage many of the men were averse. Captain Swan however, Mr. Dampier, and a majority of the people, declared in favoui- of the attempt. They sailed for Cape Corienles on the 31st of March, 1086, and having a trade-wind and fair weather, proceeded quickly in their voyao-e. On the 20lh of May, about four o'clock, discovered land, at eight leacrues distance, to their great joy, having then but three days' provisions left, and the people begmning to murmur at the captain for carving them so far out of their knowledge. About eleven at night, on the 21st of May, they came to an anchor about a mile from shore, on the west side of the Island of Guam, one of the Ladrones ; and the next morning Captain Swan wrote a letter, which he sent with some presents to the governor ; who, in return, sent plenty of hogs, cocoa nuts, rice, fifty pounds of fine Manilla tobacco, and other refreshments. Here the captain being informed by a friar, who came onboard, that the Philippines abounded with provisions, they made sail on the 2J of June, and on the 21st arrived at the Island of St. John, which he passed hy, and came to an anchor in a small bay, on the east side of Mindanao, which had been represented as the most plentiful of these islands. The Philippines are a range of large islands, extending from five to nineteen degrees of north latitude. The chief is called Luronia, where Magellan was killed by a poisoned arrow, and is now in possession of the Spaniards. St John and Mindanao are the only islands of all the l^hilip- pines which are not under Spanish subjection ; and are situated most to the south. St. John is in length about thirty-eight leagues; its greatest breadth is about twenty-four, and the soil is very ferile. Mindanao is sixty leagues in length, and between forty ami fifty in breadth ; the soil is good, and there are some stony hills, which produce many kinds of trees entirely unknown in England. The valleys are well watered, and abound with yams, potatoes, pumpkins, watermelons, plantains, bana- nas, guaivas, nutmegs, cloves, betle nuts, durians, cocoas, oranges, &c., but particularly the tree whence sago is gathered, which the inhabitants call the libby tree, and which grows wild by the wegan to abate. Captain Swan hired a ware- house, where he kept his goods and sails while the ship was careening ; and remarking that Raja Laut was exceedingly fond of dancing, sent for his violins on shore, with some of the men to entertain him. Among the rest one John Thacker, a frugal fellow, who had saved money enough to dress himself genteelly, and who had learned to dance at some of the music houses in Wapping, was mistaken by the geiiernl for a nobleman, and one of the sailors continned him in his error. But the atfair coming to the knowledge of the captain, the tar was thrashed for the imposition, aud the general was undeceived, but could never afterward endure the sight of the fellow. When careening the ship, they found that a most astonishing number of worms had eaten into her bottom during her stay in the harbour; but having new sheathed this, they steered out on the 10th of December, and beijan to fill water, and carry rice on board. The general, however, who had his views in detaining the vessel, kept several of the men on shore hunting with him, under pretence of stocking the ship with beef; but Mr. Dainpier, who was one of the hunting party, says, that in ten days' excursion they met with only four cows, and of these were not able to catch any one. Captain Swan now began to en- tertain thoughts of quitting the island, with a view to take in a lading q|' WILLIAM DAMPIER, 79 epice at an adjacent island, which has been since in possession of the Dutch ; but the men expected he would have coriiinued the privateering, which he was extremely averse to, though he carefully concealed it from them. Raja Laut hada hunting rnalch in search ofblack cattle the day after Christmas-day, in- which he was accoinpanied by all his wives, and five or six Englishmen : in this expedition they killed three heifers, but he and his company took care to drink so plentifully of a very agreeable liquor, ex- tracted from rice, that they were drunk two or three times before night. At this time one of the men happening by accident to find Cajjtain Swan's journal, showed it to his companions ; and as they found he had made remarks on the smalUst offence of every sailor on board, and been very free in his reflections on the crew in general, they determined to deprive him of the command, choosing Mr. Read captain, and Mr. Teat master ; and having resolved to cruise before Manilla, they set sail on the 14th of January, 1687, leaving (Captain Swan and thirty-six men on shore. Mr. Dampier was among those who left Mindanao. On the 3d of February they anchored off an island to the west of the Isle of Sebo, the name of which they did not know, in latitude nine degrees fifteen minutes, where neither house nor inhabitants were seen, but a prodi- gious number of large ba's, the wings of some of which, when extended, measured eight feet from tip to tip, and were edged with sharp crooked claws, which clung fast to anything they hap|iened to touch. They sailed from this place on the 10th of February, coasting along the west side of the Philippine islands. On the 18ih came to an anchor at the north-west end of Mindora, an island forty leagues in length. Here they found a small river of fresh water, running into the sea, near the place where thev lay at anchor, and saw plentv of oxen and hogs, but so wild they could not catch them. During their slay, a canoe from Manilla, with four Indians on board, came and gave information that in the harbour of Manilla there were generally twenty or thirty vessels be- longing to the Spaniards, Portuguese, and Chinese, and that if inclined to engage in a clandestine trade, they would carry letters to some mer- chants of that place. Left this place on the 3Ist; on the 23d arrived at the south-east end of the Island of Luconia, where they took two barks hound to Manilla, from Pagassanam, a small town on this island. Luconia is near 60 leagues broad, and not less than 120 in length ; it is surrounded by many small islands, of which Mindora, the principal, lies nearest, and gives its name to a channel between it and the former. The country is partly composed of mountains, which afford some gold, and partly of large pas- ture plains, stored with buO'aloes, cows, horses, sheep, goats, and hogs. It is said lobe extremely healthy, thoutjh situated in fifteen degrees north latitude ; and its water is esteemed the best in the world. It is inhabited by Indians, who live in small towns, and are instructed in the Roman Catholic religion by Spanish priests. Manilla is the chief, if not the only city, seated at the foot of a ridge of higli hills. It is defended by a strong wall ; the houses are spacious, strong, and covered wiih tiles ; the streets large and regular, with a market-place in the middle. It is adorned with several churches and convents, and the harbour is very large. Tne citv is well watered, and ihe country about it is fruitful and plentitul. Its chief trade is with Acapulco. As the season of the year was too far advanced to think of trade, they determined to sail for Pulo Condore, the chief of a cluster of small is- lands on the coast of Cambodia, and to return in the month of May, to 80 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. lie in wait for the Acapulco ship ; accordingly they sailed from Luconia on the 26th of February, and anchored on the north side of Pulo Con- dore on the 14lh of March. This island, the only one of the cluster that is inhabited, produces several kinds of trees, among which is a very tall one, between three and four feet in diameter ; from an incision made in the trunk of which they distdled a liquor, that when heated a little, had the virtues of tar, and being kept longer over the fire, acquired the consistence of pitch, in lieu of which it was used with success. One of these trees affords two quarts of juice daily, for a month together ; after which, drying up, it recovers itself again. Mango trees are also produced here, the fruit of which is pickled while green with salt, vinegar, and garlic. The fruit is about the size of a small peach, very juicy and plea- sant, and is so fragrant as to perfume the air at some distance On this island grows a straight tree about a foot in diameter, upon which grapes grow in clusters about the body of the tree, like the fruit of the cocoa tree, and have a very pleasant taste. There is also a kind of bastard nutmeg, which exactly resembles the true, but has neither smell nor taste. Here are hogs, guanoes, and lizards, together with several sorts of fowl, as parrots, paroquets, wild cocks and hens, turtle-doves and pigeons. The sea-shore abounds with muscles, limpets, and turtle. The inhabitants, who came originally from Cochin China, are small, but well shaped ; of a dark complexion, long visage, black hair, thin lips, little eyes, and white teeth ; very civil, but poor ; their chief employment consisting in supplying vessels with the juice of the tar tree, and making turtle oil, by boiling the fat of the fish, which they send to Cochin China. These people are mostly idolaters ; but Dampier does not pretend to be acquainted with the ceremonies of their religion ; only he imagines they worship the elephant and the horse, having observed a representation of the latter on the outside, and of the former in the inside of a temple, which was a mean wooden building, in a small village on the south side of the island. They staid at this place from the 16th March to the 16th of April, during which they careened the ship, and made her a fresh suit of sails out of the cloth taken on boaid the Spanish prize. While remaining here, the inhabitants supplied them with plenty of hogs, turtle, and fruit, for which they took rice in exchange. Having unloaded the prize taken at Manilla, they went to the north side of the island to supply themselves with water, and then taking on board a person who understood the Malay language to pilot them to Siam, with which place, as well as the islands lying on the road, he pretended to be acquainted, they set sail on the 17th of April, and entered the Bay of Siarn on the 24th, where the pilot ran them aground. At this place Captain Read went on shore among the islands m search of fish, but returned without success ; and steering for Pulo Ubi, at which place they had touched in their passage hither, found two vessels at anchor, laden with lacquer, such as is used in japanning. These vessels, one of which was remarkably neat, had on board forty sailors, brisk sociable fellows, armed with guns, swords, and lances. They returned to Pulo Condore on the 2Ist of May, where was found a small bnrk at anchor, to had which Captain Read sent a canoe along side of her ; but charged his men not to venture on board, without having first made friends of the people, lest they should be Malays, whom he knew to be remarkably treacherous. However, the men neglected his orders, and boarded her, but were soon obliged to re- treat, being attacked with a kind of bayonets, called cresses, and compelled $0 leap into thf s^a and swim fpr their lives ; and it is nqt a UtlU fXr WILLIAM DAMPIEil. 81 traordinary, that one of the men, named Daniel Wallis, swam on that occasion, though he could never swim before, nor was able to repeat it afterward. Captain Read manned two canoes, m order to pnnish these people : but as soon as they saw the English advancing, escaped into the woods, having first cut a hole in the bark's bottom, and sunk her. Quitting Pulo Condore with a south-west wind on the 4th of June, 1687, intending to cruise off Manilla, the wind soon changed to the south- east, and they were forced on the coast of China, and coming to an an- chor on the north-east of St. John's Island, lying in 22 degrees 30 minutes north latitude. The skirts of this spot, bordering the sea, are for the most part woody : the soil is generally fertile ; and in the inland parts there are good pas- ture-grounds and many groves of trees. They have plenty of tame ducks, cocks, and hens, but no wild fowls ; buffaloes, bullocks, goats, and China hogs are very plenty. These hogs are black, have short necks, small heads, short legs, and bellies which sweep the ground. The natives chiefly maintain themselves by cultivating rice. They are tall, raw-boned, straight-bodied men ; have tawny comple.iions, long faces, acquiline noses, small eyes, black hair, and thin beards, which are tied up in knots, or curled in whiskers on each side of their lips. They were formerly very proud of their hair, but the Tartars, when they made a conquest of this country, compelled them to shave their heads, leaving only one lock on the crown of the head, which they permit to grow to a great length, and sometimes it flows loose, though it is generally platted It is as much as the life of a Chinese is worth, to be found with long hnir ; and many have been known to abandon their country rather than part with it. They wear no covering for the head, but instead, use an umbrella to shade them from the weather ; a large fan is used for the same purpose, if they have but a little way to go. They wear no stockings, but slippers on thejr feet, and the covering is a light frock and breeches. The women on this island, as well as those on the continent of China, ate compelled to be much at home, on account of the sinallness of their feet, which are bound up prodigiously tight in their infancy to prevent their growing, small feet being esteemed a great beauty ; for this reason they only stumble about their houses, being obliged to sit down at the end of every two or three steps. They make very curious embroidery for their shoes, and in general are excellent needle-women. The feet of the poorer women are suffered to grow much larger, that they may be able to produce their subsistence. There is a small town on the island, situated in marshy ground, the houses of which are mean, lowly, badly furnished, and built upon posts. While at anchor, a Chinese junk lay near them, flat both at the head and stern, having little huts three feet high on the deck, which were covered with palmetto leaves. vShe had a large cabin, with an altar and lamp hurning in it. The hold was divided into several partitions, each so tight, that if a leak should spring in one, the goods in the next would receive no damage. Every merchant has his particular room, where he stows his goods, and sometimes lodges in it himself. This has only two masts, a main-mast and fore-mast ; the last has a square sail and square yard, but the main-mast has a sail narrow aloft, like a sloop's sail. In fair weather they use also a top-sail, which in foul weather they haul down on deck, yard and all. The main-mast of the largest junks is aa large as that of our third-rate men-of-war, but made all out of one tree and not pieced as ours are. 83 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. Perceiving all fmaginable signs of an approaching storm, on the 3d of< July they weighed anchor, and got out to sea with all possible expedition, that tbey might not want room. About eleven o'clock at night the storm overtook thein, which lasted with prodigious fierceness till about four in the morning, when the hopes of the superstitious sailors were revived by the sight of a corpus sanclain upon the main-mast, which they looked upon as the forerunner of good weather, but had it been upon deck, they would have esteemed it a certain sign of being lost. The corpi'r- Sanctum is a small glittering light like a star, which usually dances about a ship in hard weather. By eleven o'clock the next morning it was stark calm ; after which the storm raged more violently than ever ; and as tiiey dread- ed the continuance of bad weather during this moon, which was near the full, they determined to steer away for the Piscadores, or Fisher islands, which he in 23 degrees north latitude. On the 20th of July, gained sight of them, and came to an anchor between the two easternmost islands, on the west side of one of which they were agreeably surprised to find -A large town, with a fort commanding the harbour, the houses of which were neatly built, but low. Some of the men who went on shore were carried before the go\'ernor, who, being informed that they were Engli.sh, and intended to trade, said they must not pretend to do it, as it was a thing absolutely forbidden there. He treated them, however, with great civility, and said he would assist them as much as lay in his power, sending a present to the captain, of a small jar of flour, some watermelons, about a dozen pine apples, and some cakes of fine bread. They wore visited the next day by an officer of a very grand appear;ince, dressed in a loose coat, with breeches and boots of black silk, and a black silk cap, on which was a plume of black and white feathers. He brought on board with him, as a present from the governor, a very fat heifer, two large hogs, four goats, two baskets of flour, twenty large flat cakes of bread, two jars of sam-shu, or arrack, and fifty-five jars of hoc-shu, a strong pleasant liquor resembling mum, ani which is extracted from wheat. In return for these presents Captain Read sent the sovcrnor a silver-hilted sword, a carbine, and a gold chain ; and on the gentleman's return, he was saluted with three guns. They sailed from the Piscadores with a south west wi.id on the 29th of July, steering for some little islands between Formosa and Luconia, known by no other name than the Five isles, which they imagined to be uninhabited ; but, to their great surprise, found three populous towns, all Aiihin a league from the sea. One of these, about eight leagues long and two broad, they called the Prince of Orange Island, in honour of the Prince of Orange, afterward King William the Third. To another Dam- pier gave the name of Grafton, in honour of the Duke of Grafton, in wiiose fimily his wife then lived ; and a third was called Monmouth Is- land, in honour of the Duke of Monmouth ; these were the three largest, and of the ethers, one they called the Goat Island, from the number of goats they saw upon it, and the other B itihee. from a pleasant liquor of that name, which they drank there. Orange Island, though the largest, is uninhabited, being rockv and barren ; on Goat Island there is one town, t)iu Monmouth and Grafton Islands contain a great numbf-r of inhabitants. The hills of these isles are rockv, but the valleys are fertile in grass, plan- tains, bananas, pine apples, pumpions. sujar canes, potatoes, and cotton. They are well watered with ninninix streams, and stored with goals and bogs, hut have scarcely any fowl, either wild or tame. The natives are short and thick, round-visaged, with low foreheads, WILLIAM DAMPIER, 83 and thick eye-brows ; their noses /latti.sh and short, their eyes of a hazel colour and small, but not so small as those of the Chinese ; their lips and mouths of the middle size, with white teeth, and black thick straight hair, which they cut short, so as not to permit it to cover their ears. Their complexion is a dark copper colour. The men go bare-headed ; some wear no clothes but a cloth about the middle, but others have a kind of jacket made of plantain leaves, as rough as a bear's skin. Thfr women have a short petticoat of coarse calico, of their own niaking, which reaches a little below the knees. Both sexes wear ear-rings made of a yellow metal, which they dig out of the mountains ; it is of th& Weight of true gold, but rather paler. Our author is not absolutely cer tain whether it was real gold or not, for though of a fine colour at first it afterward faded, which making the people on board suspect it, they dij not buy much. They observed the natives cover it with a kind of red earth, and then put it into a quick fire, till it was red-hot, which brough', it to its former colour again. The houses are very small, and not above five feet in height, built with small posts fastened together with boughs. At one end of the house i^ the fire-place, near which lie a number of boards, on which they sleep They inhabit villages built on the sides of rocky hills, tliree or four rovvj of houses being one above another. These rocky precipices are framec) by nature into deep steps or stories, upon each of which they build » row of their houses, and ascend from one row or street to the other b) ladders, which being drawn up, there is no possibility of climbing to at tack them. The street to every row of houses runs parallel to the topf. of the houses of the row beneath, and the ladder by which they ascenft is placed in the middle of the street. These people live mostly by fish- ing, and are very expert in building boats, which resemble our yawk Tliey have also larger vessels, which are managed with tv/elve or four teen oars. What husbandry affairs they carry on, are managed chiefly by the women. It was customary for them to beg the paunches of thf. hogs and goats killed by the ship's crew, the contents of which they pu( into a pot, and then boiling it, eat it with raw fish ; but they have a disl. made of locusts, whicli is not ill tasted. These insects coming at cer tain seasons to devour their plants, are caught with nets, and bake ov boil them in an earthen pan. Their common drink is water, but they have also a strong and intoxicating liquor called bashee, made of the sugar cane, boiled and mixed with some blackberries, which is put intj jars and kept five or six days, and then it greatly resembles English bee", both in colour and taste. Dampier does not pretend to be acquainted with their language, which is neither like the Glunese nor Malay ; but he observes that the yAhw metal already mentioned, is calbnl by the name of bullawar, which is the word that the Indians of the Phihppine islands use for gold. Tiiey have no arms but hrnces, headed with iron, and wear a kind of coat of mail made of the skin of the buffalo, which is as thick as a board, has no sleeves, and reaches down to the calves of their legs. These people appeared to have no religion or government, nor any precedency among them, except that the chddren were very obedient to their parents ; but Vie fancies they have ancient customs which serve them for laws, for they iaw a young lad buried alive, as they supposed for theft. Each man has only one wife, who is very obedient to her husband. Their boys are brought up to fishing, and the girls work on the plantaiions with their mothers, where each family cultivates as much ground as is necessary 64 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. for its owri supply. They hre civil, good-tempered people, neither qnarreli ling among themselves nor with others. They have no coin, but pass their yellow metal as money, which they pay away by guess. On the ship's first anchoring here, about a hundred boats, filled with the natives, came round her at once, and made no scruple of going on board, ex- changing yams, potatoes, and bashee, for leaden bullets, spikes, and old nails ; a fat goat for an old iron hoop ; and a fat hog of eighty pounds weight for iwo or three pounds of iron. On the 25ih of September our adventurers were driven out to sea by a violent storm, which continued to such a degree till the 29lh, that they were every moment in danger of being swallowed by the waves ; and it was the 1st of October before they could get back to Bashee Island. The men were so discouraged by this, that they determined to lay aside all thoughts of cruising before Manilla, and were more inclined to a home- ward voyage than to any other enterprise ; but Captain Read and Mr. Teat at length persuaded them to steer for Cape Comorin, by going round to the east of the Philippine islands, and so keeping south of the Spice islands, to pass into the Indian Ocean, about the Island of Timor ; in- stead of which, as the eastern monsoon was at hand, our author observes, that their nearest and best way would have been to have passed through the straits of Malacca. They quitted these islands with fair weather, and wind at west, on the 3d of October, 1G87 ; and, on the 16th of the same month, anchored between two small islands to the south of Mindanao, where they hauled the ship on shore to clean her bottom, and made a new fore-topmast, a pump, a fore-yard, itnd a bowsprit. At this place a young prince, belong ing to one of the adjacent Spice islands, came on board and informed them that Captain Swan and his men, whom they left behind them, had fought under Raja Laut with good success against the mountaineers, and the captain was in great esteem at Mindanao. Being now so near him, our author would have persuaded the men to submit once more to his authority ; but the affair coming to the knowledge of Captain Read, he took care to prevent it. After this, Mr. Dampier learned that most of Swan's men got on bourd different ships, but that he himself and the surgeon going on board a Dutch vessel, were overset by the natives and drowned ; and that there was some grounds to imagine that this murder was perpetrated by order of Raja Laut, partly in revenge for some slight- ing expressions wliich Swan had imprudently uttered, and partly for the sake of some gold which the captain had amassed, and which, by his death, fell into the hands of the general. They sailed hence on the 2d of November ; on the 22d, being three leagues to the southward of the Ishtnd of Celebes, saw a large proa, in which were sixty men, attended by six smaller ones, to whom they hoisted Dutch colours, but in vain, with a view to allure them on board. On the coast of this island saw cockles so prodigiously large, that one was suf- ficient to feed seven or eight people. A kind of vine also grew here, the leaves of which being pounded with hog's lard, made an excellent salve for wounds. In three degrees south latitude, on the 30th of November, they discovered three water-spouts : these are very dangerous to ship- ping, but the ill consequences of them are sometimes prevented by firing great guns in order to break them. They are first formed upon the sur- face of the sea, the water of which, after whirling about a long time in the circumference of perhaps a hundred paces, flies up in a pyramidical form to a cloud, which crowns it, and along with-which it drives upoa tb« William ^AMPifen. 85 Water, until the suction being spent, the spout separates fiom the cloud, and the water falls again into the sea with a dre-adful noise, and destroys whatever may happen to be beneath it. On the 1st of December steered a southern course, and on the 6th came to an anchor on the east side of the Island of Button, lying in four degrees fifty-four minutes south latitude. 'I'his island is flat and woody, about twenty-five leagues long and ten broad. At half a mile from the sea is Callasusung, the residence of the sultan ; it is a long town, seated on the lop of a small hill, in a pleasant plain, enclosed with a strong stone wall, within which is a walk of cocoa trees. The inhabitants are neat, clean, small, and well shaped ; in manners and comple.vion resembling those of Mindanio. They are Mahometans, and speak the Malay tongue. The sultan, hearing the ship was EngHsh, came on board with three of his sons, attended by some of his nobles, and assured Captain llsad he would serve him to the best of his power, and that he was willing to trade with his subjects for whatever he pleased. The captain caused him to be saluted with five guns on coming on board, and the same number when he went on shore. The people brought on board plenty of potatoes, eggs, fowls, and other provisions : and the next day Read, agreeable to an invitation, visited the sultan at his palace, which was a very neat building. He was received in a room on the ground floor, covered with mats, after having first passed through a lane of forty soldiers, armed with lances, who were quite naked ; and was entertained with tobacco, betle, and cocoa nuts. Some time after, the sultan made him a present of two goats, and a boy, each of whose jaws were lined with two rows of teeth. The island abounded in rice and potatoes, and several beauti- ful birds, particularly paroquets and cockadorcs. The cockadore is ns white as snow, with the shape and bill of a parrot, and has a bunch of feathers like a crown on its head. Captain Kead remained here till the 12th, but in attempting to weigh, broke the cable and lost the anchor, which had hooked on a rock. On the 16th got clear of the shoils, which lie in great numbers about this island ; and on the 20th passed the Island of Omba, which in some maps is called Pentara, where they -saw thick smokes by day and large fires by night. There is a good town on the north side of this island, near the sea ; but they could not stand in for it, on account of the badness of the weather. Being clear of all the islands by the 27th, they steered for New Holland, which land they fell in with on the 4th of January, 1C88, in latitude sixteen degrees fifty minutes south. They ran twelve leagues along the shore before they could find a proper place to anchor in ; but the following day discovered a good harbour, and came to an anchor at the distance of two miles from the shore. New Holland is a vast tract of land, which joins neither to Asia, Africa, nor America ; but it is uncertain whether it is part of the main continent, or an island. The land is dry and sandy : near where they anchored there were no rivers ; so tnat what fresh water they had vvas got by dig- ging. The country produces many kinds of trees, which grow at a dis- tance from each other, having under them pretty long grass. From one of these trees distilled a gum, which, on examination, appeared to be gum-dragon. They saw no animals, but discovered the footstep of some beast that appeared to be like that of a mastiff dog. They found no fruits, and very few birds, the largest of which was no bigger than a thrush ; and the sea appeared almost destitute of fish, except the mana- tM and turtle. The inhabitants of this corntry appear to be the most 8 ^6 VOYAGfiS HOUND THE WORLD. miserable people on earth ; having no garments except a piece of the bark of a tree tied like a girdle round the waist ; no houses or coverings, but the heavens ; no sheep, poultry, or fruits ; their food being a small sort of fish, brought in wiih eveiT tide, and left in stone weirs, which are erected on the shore at low water-niark for that purjiose ; and they have sometimes a few cockles, muscles, and periwinkles ; whatever they catch is equally divided, and if their supply fails, they are in danger of starvmg ; but this,' through ihe care of Providence, seldom happens. These people are tall, thin, and strong hmbed, with large heaJs, bushy eye-brows, broad flat noses, thick lips, wide mouths, short black curled hair, and complex- ion as dark as the negroes of Africa ; and like them also have no beards. Their features are disagreeable, and it is remarkable that the two fore- teeth of thp upper jaw are wanting both in men and women ; but whether these were taken out by way of ornament, or whether it was a natural defect, Mr. Dampier does not pretend to be certain. There appeared to be no marriages or oi,her particular connexions between the men and viromen, but they lived together in a promiscuous manner. Neither was it observed that they had^'aiiy form of government, or practised any kind of religious ceremonies. Their only weapons were wooden swords, and wooden lances formed of a straight pole, made sharp and hardened at the end. Their language is entirely guttural, and none of the ship's compa- ny could even guess at the meaning of a single word ihey uttered. The flies here were so extremely troublesome they were apt to get into the eyes, nose, or mouth, for which reason the natives commonly kept their eyes half shut, and are obliged, when they look at anything, to hold their hands before their eyes, as a person does when he atiempts to look at the sun. The firsi. appearance of the ship's crew upon the coast terribly alarm- ed these poor people ; but their fears subsided on finding tliai they had no intention to hurt them. Some of the sailors gave them clothes, with a view to prevail upon them to assist in carrying water to their canoes, but they could by no means make themselves understood, and the natives having examined their clothes with seeming amazement, grinned at each other like monkeys, and laid them down on the ground. Dampier was threatened to be put on shore at this inhospitable place, for endeavouring to persuade some of tlie men to leave the ship, and go to some English factory ; a design which he had long harboured, but now gave over all thoujjhts of. till some convenient opportunity should present iiself. They left i"he coast of New Holland on the 12ih of March, taking their course north; on the 28th fell in with a small island covered with wood, in 10 degrees 30 minutes south latitude, where they caught a number of boo- bies and land crab.<, and took in fresh water. On the r2th of April, came to the Isla id of Triest, which is about a mile in circumference, and so very low, t'lat the tide at flood flows quite over it ; but, nevertheless, it bears great plenty of cocoa nuts, with which they supplied themselves, and caughr. a quantity of fish and two young alligators. Leaving this island on the 18lh, on the •29th saw a proa at anchor, with four men in her, whom Captain Read very inbmnanly detained prisoners, after having seized the cargo, which consisted of oil and cocoa nuts, and sunk the vessel, whiih was done to prevent Mr. Dampier and others, whom they euspected, from making their escape. On the 4th of .May they had sight of the Nicobar islands, which lie forty leagues north-west of the Island of Sumatra. The chief commo- dities of th.3se islands are ambergris and fruit, which the natives carry in pioas OR board such ships as come into the road. They came to an an- WlLLAlM DAMPIER, 8? chor in eight fathom t^ater on the 6th, at the west side of tlie Island of Nicobar, properly so called, and which gives name to the others. It lies in 7 degrees 30 minutes north latitude, is twelve leagues in length and three or four broad. It forms a beautiful landscape when seen from iho sea ; the soil fertile and well wateTed. Many sorts of trees flourish here, among which are cocoas and mallories, the latter being a fruit of a light green colour, with a tough, smooth rind ; it eats like an apple, and is about the size of the bread fruit. The natives are tall and well propor- tioned, with black eyes, handsome noses, long faces, lank black liair, and a deep copper-colour complexion. The women have no hair on tlieij: eye- brows, which it is imagined they pluck off to increase their beauty ; their only dress is a short petticoat, which reaches no lower than the knees, and the men have only a piece of cloth wrapped round the waist, and swathed two or three times about the thigh. Their houses consist only of one room, which is about eight feet high from the ground, being raised upon posts, and covered with pnlmeito leaves. Their lani>uage was alto- gether unintelligible, nor could any one discover any sort of religion among them, nor any kind of settled government, every one appearing on an equal footing. They live in houses scattered about the island, sel- dom more than four or five being found together. They have neiiher rice, yams, nor potatoes, but plantains in a moderate quantity, and some cocks, hens, and small hogs. Their canoes, or proas, will contain twenty or thirty men ; they sit upon benches made of split bamboo, and row in the same manner that the watermen on the Thames do the wherries. At this place Captain Read ordered the men to heel the ship, in order to clean her ; he also took in a fresh supply of water. Here .Mr. Dim- pier obtained leave of Captain Read to go on shore with his chest and bedding, being resolved to leave so wicked a crew ; and two other persons, named Ambrose and Hall, followed bis e.xample. Mr Coppinge, theii surgeon, was very desirous of bearing them company, hut was detained by force. There were but two houses at the place where they landed, the master of one of which invited Mr. Oampier, by signs, to enter, inti- mating that he would be exposed to danger, from the wild beasts of the woods, during the darkness of the night. The fo>ir men that had been taken in the proa off Sumatra, and the pilot they brought from Pulo Condore, were also left upon this island. The latter, who was a Portu- guese, proved a useful member of the community, as he understood the Indian and Malay tongues. Ca[)tain Read got under sail about twelve o'clock at nitiht, after which, Dampier and his friends laid down to sleep, which they were afraid to do before, lest the captain should have repented having given them liberty, and sent some of his people to force thetn oa board again ; and perhaps he would scarcely have permitted them to go on shore, had he imagined they could have got off the island, as they afterward did. Dampier was visited by his friendly host early in the morning, together with four or five friends, who brought with them a large calabash filled with toddy. The Indian seemed surprised at first to see the number of his guests so much increased, but he soon appeared well satisfied, and sold them a proa for an axe, which one of the sailors, knowing it to be a valu- able commodity among the Indians, had stolen and brought away from the ship. This skiff was about the size of a wherry, but they had no sooner got on board with all their effects, than she overset, and it cost three days' time to dry their papers, clothes, and other goods. At length, with the assistance of the Achin sailors, they set the vessei 88 VOYAGES ROtJND THE WORLD. to rights, fitted her out with a good mast and balance-logs, or out-rig- gers ; after which they steered for the east side of the island, being fol- iowed by ihe inhabitants in eight or ten canoes, whom Mr. Hall frightened away by firing a gun over their heads, being apprehensive that such a large company would enhance the price of provisions. This mconside- rate action had like to have been productive of ill consequences, for their most useful hands, the Achin men, were so frightened, that they leaped out of the canoe, and it was some time before they could be convinced that no injury was intended them. It also intimidated the inhabitants, who, till then, had brought them provisions, which they used to purchase for old rags and small pieces of cloth. After this, the inhabitants ap- peared in great numbers everywhere to oppose their landing ; however, in a day or two, Dampier and Hall leaped on shore in sight of a great many, ■with whom they soon mad'=! peace by shaking hands, upon which they were supplied with provisions in the same abundance as before. Their provisions consisted of mallories, the pulp of which, being separated from the tind and the core, and pres.scd together, will keep six or seven days ; some cocoas, and a few hens. These, with twelve large cocoa nut shells, and two or three bamboos, all which contained about eight gallons of water, were their only sea store, with which they left the Island of Nicobar on the ISch of Mav, 1688, and directed their course toward Achin. After being three days at sea. they observed the sky beginning to be cloudy ; also a halo, or bright circle, encompassing the snn, an infallible prognostic of bad weather ; accordingly, they were atiacked by so dread- ful a storm, that they e.xpected every moment to l>e swallowed by the sea; but the next day, after such a tempest of wind, thunder, lightning, and rain as it was astonishing their vessel coidd outlive, they were agreea- bly surprised to h.-;ar one of their Achin sailors call out Pulo-way, (that is, the Island of Way,) which is situated near the north-west end of Suma- tra. After some hours they discovered that what they, had taken for the Island of Wav was the golden mountain of Sumatra. The next day they anchored near the mouth of the River Passange lonca, in the Island of Sumatra, thirty-six leagues from Achin : and as they were half dead with the fatigues of the voyage, they were carried to a small fishing town near the nver, and entertained with great kind- ness by the inhabitants. The news of their arrival being carried to seve- ral of the oramkis, or noblemen, they came to see them ; and having heard their adventures, ordered a house to be provided, and sent them plenty of rice, fish, cogs, fovls, plantains, and cocoas. They remained here till June, but recovered their health verv slowlv : they then deter- mined to proceed to Achin, where there is an English factory ; for which purpose they embarked on board a proa, which in three days carried them Bafe to that place. Here ihey were received with great friendship, and treated with great hospitality, by Mr. Dennis Driscol, an Irishman, in the Bervice of the East India company, who acted as interpreter between them and the chief-magistrate, who is called the Sabandar. At this place Dampier commenced an acquaintance with Captain l^owrey, who wanted him to make a voyage to Persia as boatswain; but his ill slate of health would not permit him to accept the offer. Mr. Ambrose and Mr. Hall entered on board Bowrey's ship ; and wiren Dampier had recovered hi§ health, he engaged with one Captain Weldon, with whom he remained fifteen months, and made several trading voyages ; after which he entered as gunner to the English factory at Bencoolen, in which station he con- tinued five months, but disliking the governor of the fort, then quilted it. WILLIAM DAMPIER. 89 He remained upon this coast till the year 1691, and tlien embarked on board the Defence, Captain Heath, which lay m the road of Bencoolen. As the governor had given him permission to depart, but afterward re- voked it, he was obhged to make his escape by creeping through one of the port-holes of the fort, but carried oft" his most valuable papers, and m particular his journal. He got on board the 2d of January, 1691, and they sailed on the 25th, but had not been many days at sea before a fatal distemper raged on board, by which they lost about thirty men. They reached the cape in the begiiming of April, when the sick went on shore, and were supplied with mutton, beef, and other refreshments. Going on shore at the Cape of Good Hope, he took with him an extra- ordinary person, called the painted prince, whose name was Joelly, and who, together with his mother, had been purchased by one Mr. Moody, at Mindanao, who afterward went with Mr. Dampier to Bencoolen, and, at parting, gave him the half share of the painted prince and his mother, and left them in his custody. These people were born on the Island of Meangis, which abounds m gold, cloves, and nutmegs. The prince was curiously painted, after the manner of flower-work, on the breast, on his back, between his shoul- ders, and on the fore-part of his thighs. According to what our author could learn, this painting was performed by pricking the skin, and rub- bing on it the gum of a tree called damurer, which is used instead of pilch in some parts of the Indies. He told Dampier that the people of his country fed on fowl, fish, and potatoes, and wore golden ear-rings, and bracelets about their arms and legs. As to his being made captive, he said that, as one day he, his father, and mother were going in a canoe to one of the adjacent islands, they were taken by some fishermen of Mindanao, who sold them all to the interpreter of Raja Laut, with whom he and his mother lived as slaves five years ; and were then sold to Mr. Moody for sixty dollars. After a while Mr. Moody gave his other share of these people to Dampier, who tells us that the mother soon died, and it was not without difficulty he was able to preserve the life of the son ; whose history we may as well conclude here, by observing that Mr. Dampier, after his arrival in the Thames, being in want of money, sold a part of his property in him at first, and afterward the whole ; from which time the- poor Indian was carried from place to place, and shown for money, till at length he died of the small-pox at O.xford. Having remained six weeks at the Cape of Good Hope, Captain Heath' sailed on the 23d of May, and arrived at St. Helena on the 20th of .Fune. They left this island on the 2d of July, in company with other ships bound for England, and on the 16th of September, 1631, anchored in the Downs, where they found several English and Dutch ships preparing to cruise against the French, with whom they were then at war : and our adventurers thought themselves very happy they did not fall into the hands of their enemies. The publication of the above voyage round the world having recom- mended Dampier to the notice of persons of the first eminence, he was afterward employed by government in discoveries both in the eastern and southern seas. His first expedition was to the coast of New Holland, which could have no other object but discovery in view. He sailed from the Downs on January 14, 1698, in his majesty's ship the Roebtick, car- rying only twelve guns and fifty men, and having twenty months' provi- sion on board. On the 1st of August they fell in with the western coast of New Holland, in latitude 26 degrees south, where, however, they 8^ 90 VOYAOES ROUND THE WORLD. found nothing very different from what Dampier had before described The only land animals they saw were a small sort of racoons, different from those of the West Indies chiefly in their legs, which are short be- fore, and on which they run jumping ; and a sort of guanoes, or lizards, peculiar to the country, which appear to have two heads, but in reality have but one, and no tail ; and what is no less remarkable, their four legs appear to be all fore-legs, so formed that the creature may walk either way. To these may now be added the kangaroo, a quadruped of a particular shape, as large as a sheep, and a creature of the opossum kind, with dogs and wolves ; of the latter sort some were seen by Dam- pier's men, but so lean that they were nothing but skin and bone. In latitude 23 degrees south, they saw dolphins and small whales, and abun- dance of scuttle shells, swimming in the sea. They were much distress- ed for water here. Being a~hore employed in digging a well, Dampier was assaulted by ten or twelve of the natives, with whom he had a skir- mish, and was forced to shoot one dead, to disengage a young man who was surrounded by three of them, and wounded in the cheek wiih a lance. On a gun being lired over the heads of the assailants, though it star- tled them at first, they soon recovered their surprise, and continued their hostilities ; but, as soon as they saw a man fall, were terribly frightened, and fled with precipitation. Dampier very humanely adds, that he tres- passed on the natives no farther, being very sorry for what had happened. Our voyager not being able either to find fresh water or a harbour to careen his ship, set sail from this miserable country about the beginning of September, 1699 ; and, directing his course to the Island of Timor, arrived there September 15, and received a supply of water and provi- sions from the chief of the Dutch factory there. In his return, he touched again at Timor, and from thence sailed to Batavia ; where, having careened his ship and supplied himself with necessaries of every kind, on the 17ih of October, 1700, he set sail foi the Cape of Good Hope ; from thence continuing his voyage to St. He- lena, he arrived at that island January 31, 1701 ; but, in his course home, his ship sprung a leak at sea, and, after endeavouring in vain to stop it, he was obliged to run her aground on the Island of Ascension ; where, having landed his men, and taken from on board all necessary provisions, they in a short time discovered a fine spring of water, and lived tolerably, till ihey were at last relieved by some English men-of- war, who were convoying home the Canterbury Indiaman, and brought them all safe to England. In 1703, notwithstanding the bad success of the voyage just mentioned, Dampior was ag-nn employed in an expedition to the South Sea, in con- junction with Captain Pulling, who had each a ship of twenty-six guns and 120 men under his command. That commanded by Captain Dam- pier was called the St. George ; and that by Captain Pulling, the Fame. They were victualled for nine months, and had commissions from his Roval Hiohness Prince George of Denmark, then lord-high-admiral, to proceed in a warlike manner against the French and Spaniards ; and both were upon the same terms of no prizes no pay. But while in the Downs, some difference havmg arisen between the two captains, Pulling set sail alone, and left Dampier to take his own course ; who, stopping some time in Ireland, was joined by the Cinque Ports galley of ninety tons, si,\teen guns, and sixty-three men, Captain Charles Pickering com- mander. In this expedition, Dampier had three grand objects in view: the first was, tQ sail to Buenos Ay res in order to surprise the Spanish WILLIAM DAMPIER 91 galleons that usually take in their lading at that port ; the second de- pended on missing the first, in which case they were to pass through the straits of Magellan to cruise upon the coasts of Peru, for the Baldivia ships that carry gold to Lima ; and the third, if hoth the former mis- carried, was to proceed to the coast of Mexico, to intercept the Manilla ship that annually arrives at Acapulco, and is said to be worth eight or nine millions of pieces of eight, equal to a million and a half of English money. Full of these projects, they set sail from Kinsale, in Ireland, on the 11th of September, 1703, and on the 25th arrived off Madeira, where they learned that the galleons were sailed from Buenos Ayres, and then lay at Teneriff. The first project being tiins defeated, they proceedsd to put the second in execution with all possible despatch. On the 24th of November they anchored on the Island of Le Grand, on the coast of Brazil, where they buried Captain Pickering, and chose Lieutenant Straddling in his room. From this island they sailed on the Sth of Decem- ber ; and doubling Cape Horn on the 20th of Januarv, changed their direction, sailed to the northward, and on the 10th of February came to an anchor in the great Bay of Juan Fernandez, where they met their con- sort, Captain Stradling, with whom they had partei! in passing Cape Horn in a violent storm, which happened on the 26th of January. At Juan Fernandez they continued refitting their ships till the 29th, when seeing a sail, they slipped their cables and p\it to sea. She proved to be a French ship of 400 tons, thirty guns, and full of men. The St. George fought her about seven hours, when a gale springing up she sheared off. On this occasion the Cinque Ports behaved but indiffe- rently, firing only a few guns, and lying by. Next day, in returning to Juan Fernandez, they fell in with two French men-of-war, of thirty-six guns each ; from whom they narrowly esca|)ed, leaving their cables, an- chors, and five or six of their men belongmg to the Cinque Ports on that island, with a new suit of sails, and several other necessaries which they could ill spare. They now proceeded upon their second enterprise; but were equally unfortunate in that as in the former. The Baldivian ships were sailed, and the gold secured They then meditated a sur- prise against the town of Santa Maria, in the Gulf of Panama, where the Spaniards, getting intelligence of their designs, laid ambuscades, and after killing and wounding several, put the rest to flijrht. In this manner, disappointment surcecding disappointment, differences began to arise between the commanders, and they concluded to part company. But about this time a large ship, fortnnaiely for them, coming to an anchor in the night close by, they instantly boarded and made prize of her. She was deeply laden with flour, sugar, brandy, wine, about thirty tons of malmalade of quinces, a considerable quantity of salt, with some tons of linen and woollen cloth. This proved a sea- sonable supply ; and provisions, that were before so scarce that ordy five green plantains were the dadv allowance for si.v mm, were no"' so abun- dant on board the prize, that they might have laid in a stock for several years ; yet, in less than six months, we find then) starving. After Bearching the prize and dividing the spoil, the captains parted ; and in two or three days Dampier fell in with a Spanish man-of-war. fitted out on purpose to take him. The two ships had a smart engagement, and parted in the night by consent. Soon after this ensjagement, Dampier and Clippington, his first lieu teaant, having sopne difference, Clippington seized upon the shu's tender 92 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. in which were the stores and ammunition, and with twenty-one of the best nien weighed anchor and set sail. When he had cleared the islands, he sent to invite all those who were willing to sail with him to come on board ; but Dampier's last project being now on the point of bemg carried into execution, the men who remained with him resolved to abide the issue. The master of this bark, Christian Martin by name, was a Spa- niard by birth, but taken prisoner while a boy, and bred up in England. This man they kept prisoner on board, and now proceeded to intercept the Manilla ship. On the 6th of December, in the morning, they saw a sail, and soon came up with her. She proved their last hope, the great Manilla ship, from the East Indies. They instantly bore down upon her, and before she could bring her guns to bear, gave her several broadsides ; and, taking her unprepared, put the compi'ny on board in the utmost disorder. Cap- tain Martin, though a Spaniard, advised to lay her aboard immediately, before the Spaniards had recovered their surprise ; but that advice was disregarded til! it was too late ; for, while two parties were quarrelling on board the St. George, the one for laying the enemy on board, the other not, the Spaniards got out a tier of twenty-four pounders, every one of which that took place was ready to send the St. George to the bottom. The assailants were, therefore, soon beaten off with disgrace, after havinff received a shot between wind and water in the powder-room, by which two feet of planking was driven in on each side the stern. And now, being disappointed of this their last expectation, all the men grew discontented, and impatient to return home. However, they were prevailed upon to cruise a few weeks longer on the coast of ^^exico ; and with that view passed the ports of Acapulco, Port Angels, Port Guatuico, and several others ; but wilhont meeting any prize worth wait- ing for. Ill success is generally succeeded by discontent; the men who were before impatient of fatigue without reward, grew now ungovernable. A party, therefore, form.ed the design of returning home by v^'ay of the East Indies ; and these were encouraged by Mr. Funnel, the chief-mate, who, having the commatid of the small Spanish prize already mentioned, de- termined to hazard everything to regain his native country, rather than continue under the direction of a man with whom they could not agree. He therefore embraced the first opportunity to reach the Gulf of Ama- palla, to water his bark, and prepare for his voyage home. It should seem that this voyage of Dampier, though countenanced with a government commission, was, notwithstanding, fitted out by private adventurers ; for, on this occasion, the owners' agent is said to have divided the provisions and stores between those who chose to remain with Dampier, and those who determined to follow the fortune of Mr. Funnel. Their whole number was already reduced to sixty effective men, thirty-three of whom chose to accompany Funnel, and twenty-seven only remained with Dampier, but upon what terms they enaagred, or what course they pursued afterward, we are not told ; for Dampier, though he returned home, never published any account of this voyage. What we have related concerning it, in order to complete his adventures as far as our materials extend, we have extracted from the account written by Funnel ; who, having left Dampier in the Gulf of Amapalla on the 1st of February, 170.5, takes no farther notice of his captain; but goes on with the story of his own voyage, which was indeed unfortunate enough ; for his ship was siezed by the Dutch at Ambovna, the goods on board COWLEY. 93 confiscated, and most of the men cruelly used, being confined and half starved by the Dutch, who were jealous lest they should make discove- ries prejudicial to their commerce. Funnel himself, however, soon got released ; and, having made strong representations against the authors of his sufferings at Amboyna, at length obtained some show of redress ; with which, though not a compensation for his losses, he was forced to be contented. On tlie 2d of November he, with two of his company, got passage to Europe in the Dutch East India fleet ; and, on the 1.5th of July following, arrived safe in the Texel, from whence, after visiting the principal towns in Holland, he came to England, and published the ac- count just mentioned, in which he followed the example of Dampier, by giving a description of the natural productions of the islands at which he touched, their inhabitants, arts, and commerce. , Mr. COWLEY.— 1683-86. Of Cowley we can find no other account than what is contained m the voyage written by himself ; therefore, we shall, in his own words, preserve such parts of that voyage as have not already been related in the voyage of Dampier ; premising only, that in his first setting out among the bucaniers was in the same prize in which Dampier set sail from Virginia, under the command of Captain Cook ; that he continued to serve that commander, as master, during his life ; and that, after sailing some time in consort with Captain Eaton in the South Seas, he chose rather to serve that gentleman than to continue with his own captain's successor. One remark more, and then to proceed. We find him, in every collection of voyages in which he is introduced, distinguished by the appellation of Captain Cowley, though the highest employment to which he ever seems to have arrived was master on board the bucaniers. We, in our ship, says Cowley, toward the middle of August, set sail from the Gulf of Miguel, in the Bay of Amapalla, steering for Cape St. Francisco, where we chased" a ship that escaped from us; and then bore up to latitude 7 degrees south, where, finding the country alanj[i,ed, we stood for Payta, in latitude 4 degrees south, where we took two ships lying at anchor ; which the Spanish refusing to ransom, we, by way of farewell, set them on fire. From hence we sailed for Gorgona, at which island we watered our ship for the East Indies. This island lies in latitude 3 degrees 15 minutes north, and in longi- tude 305 degrees east, and as soon as we had supplied ourselves with wood and water, took our departure, steering west-north-west, till we came as low almost as the rocks of St. Bartholomew, in lonifitude 24C degrees, and then sailed into latitude 15 degrees north, till judging we were passed those rocks, returned into 13 degrees north, which latitudn we held till we made the Island of Guam, in latitude 13 degrees north, and in longitude 150 degrees east, according to our reckoning ; at which island we had a very sickly ship, no man being free from the scurvy, and most of us in a weak condition. It was on the 14th of March, about seven in the morning, that we saw land. At twelve o'clock we were in latitude 13 degrees 2 minutes north, by observation, having made out on our sailing, by judgment, 7846 miles, that is to say, departed so many miles from Grorgona by loss made out in longitude, which is about 2549 leagues. The next day we sailed about the south-west part of the island, and came to an anchor in a fair bay, from whence we sent a boat on shore. §4 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. with a flag of truce ; but, on landing, our people found that the native* had burnt" iheir houses, and had fled; however, our men felled some cocoa nut trees, and brought a hundred or two on board to refresh the crew. In the meantime a party of Indians rushed from behind the bushes, and in a hostile manner threatened to attack us ; but we made signs of friendship, and one of the Indians returned to the wood, and having peeled a stick so as to make it appear white, he came forward, vvhen°one of his companions, perceiving that he had no cap to complirtient our people, called him back, and presented him with one for that purpose. From the 15th till the 17th we continued a free trade with the Indians; but on that day our men going over to a small island on the west side of Guam, the Indians fell upon them with stones and lances, which occa- sioned a fray, in which some of the Indians were kdled upon the spot. Two days after, the governor, who happened to be a Spaniard, came to a point of land near the ship, and sent a letter written in Spanish, French, and Dutch, demanding, in the name of the king, his master, who we were, whiiher we were bound, and from whence we came 1 Our answer was written in French, that we were employed by some gentlemen in France upon the discovery of some unknown parts of the world. On the return of the messenger, the governor sent a letter of invitation to the captain to come on shore, with which he instantly complied, and was received under a triple discharge of cannon from the fort, which was answered by the same number of guns from the ship. They soon came to a good understanding. Our captain made an apology for killing some of the Indians in his own defence ; and the governor gave for answer, that, if he had killed them all, he should have esteemed the favour the greater. We were afterward told tiiat the Indians on the small island were in rebellion. On Wednesday, about twelve o'clock, a Spanish captain came on board, and continued with us till twelve the next day. He brought, as a present from the governor, ten hogs, a large quantity of potatoes, plantains, oranges, papas, and red pepper ; in return for which, our commander sent the governor a diamond ring, and presented the officer with a rich sword. While mutual civilities were passing between the governor and the captain, our people went out every day, chasing the Indians, whom they had full license to kill and destroy wherever they met with them ; but they, finding us not to be Spaniards, became very tractable, and oft'ered to assist in supplying us with fish and fruit, which they exchanged for old nails and old iron. After having tarried here some time, and a free intercourse had been established between the Indians on shore and our people on board the ship, the Indians made signs for as many of our men as chose it, to come and see them haul the seine. Our men, not suspecting any design, manned the boat, and went to look at them ; but, while the men were amusing themselves with the sport, the Indians had very artfully brought their seine round the boat, with a design to draw it on shore, and thereby entangle both boat and crew ; but the sailors, dis- covering the plot, gave the Indians no time to carry it into execution ; for, being provided with fire-arms, which they never went ashore without, they fired among the thickest of the crowd, killed a great many, and drove the rest away. These Indians are large in stature, some being si.t feet and a half high ; they go stark naked ; never bury their dead, but let them lie in the sun to rot. They have no arms but slings and lances ; the sharp ends of the latter are pointed with dead men's bones, which, being cut like scoops, and jagged at the edges like unto saws, if a man COWLEY. 95 happens to be wounded bv them, and is not cured in nine days, he cer- taialy dies. Our people tooit four of these treacherous savages prisoners, bound them, and brought them on board ; but they had not been long among us, before three of them leaped into the sea, and, with their hands tied behind them, swam away like fishes. The Spanish governor's kind- ness increased in proportion to the mischief done to the Iridians. He sent us, the succeedmg day, by one of his captains, thirty hogs, some melons, punipions, potatoes, fruits, and rice, and received in rct:jrn si.t small patararoes. Having now rigged anew our ship, and supplied our- selves with wood and water, we began to prepare for our departure. On the 1st of April weighed anchor, and nc.Kt day came abreast of the fort, which we saluted with three guns, and were comphinented with the Game number; and, on the 3d, the governor sent his last present to our captain. On the 4th set sail, and steered W. by S. till we arrived at the height of St. Bartholomew, then shaped our course W. N. W. till in the latitude of 20 degrees 30 minutes north, when we fell in with a cluster of islands, lying to the north of Luconia, distant from Guam 560 leagues. They seemed to be uninhabited ; but the meii who went on ohore in the boat, found abundance of nutmegs on one of the clusters, and saw some goats. From these islands we steered S. W. for the island of Luconia, and on the 25th of April, Cape Bajadore bore from us east ; after which we came up with Cape Mindato, where the S. W. monsoon overtaking us, we were obliged to bear away for Canton, in China, where we lay and refitted our ship, and where we might have laden ourselves with plunder from thirteen Tartar ships, which came thither full of the richest goods of China ; but our men, being under no government, refused to attack them ; saying, they came f jr gold and silver, not to be made pedlers to carry packs. From Canton we sailed for Manilla, to wait for the Tarter ship that annually goes thither, and which we were informed was laden one-half with silver; but, though we were fortunate enough to come in sight of her, she out-sailed us, and escaped. We then bore away for an island that lies to the north of Luconia, intending there to stay till the wind came fair to carry us to Bantam, not then knowing that Bantam had been taken from the English by the Dutch. At this island we stored ourselves with fruit, goats, and guanoes ; which last are here good meat : here was found an Indian, who directed us to an island containing plenty of great cattle ; but the wind soon coming fair, we made sail to the south- ward, steering our course S. S. W. till in latitude 10 degrees N., where we were so entangled among the islands of Parago, that none ever ex- pected to escape with life. After three days, however, we very provi- dentially got clear, and stood in for an island at the north end o{ Borneo, where we hauled our ship on shore, and erected a tent, planting a bat- tery of ten guns for defence, in case of an attack from the natives. Here, unloading the ship, and having provided sufficiently for our security, we ranged the country for natives to trade with us ; but they, having never seen any white men before, proved very shy ; and when, by chance, our men fell in with one of their canoes, filled with women, among whom was the queen of the country and her retinue ; on the approach of our ship's boat, they all leaped over-board ; but, after taking them up, and treating them kindly, they laid aside their fears, and grew familiar ; and, upon our offering them civility, instead of avoiding, they soon became fond of U8. They brought fish in great plenty, with oranges, lcmo.is, mangoes, 96 VOi'AGES UOUND THE -WORLD. plantains, an;! pine apples ; and. besides these, we exchanged some trifles for bezoar, musk, and civet, with which the island is well stored. The year was now drawing to a close, when we set sail from this little ialand, steering a course for Timor, where, finding the ship's companj' begin to gro\v°mutinous, and not under command of the captain, myself, i\Ir. Hill, and eighteen more, joined our forces together, and purchased a large boat, in which we sailed to the Island of Java, distant from Timor 300 leagues. The wind being contrary for Batavia, we bore away for Cheribon, a factory belonging to the Dutch, lying eastward of Batavia, where we were kindly received by the governor. There we heard that King Charles of England was dead, and that his brother James was prochiinicd king ; we heard also that Bantam had been taken from the Enghsh, and that the Dutch had erected a new factory on that island. After refreshing at Cheribon, we agreed to divide our twenty men into three parties ; two of which chose to sail for the Bay of Bengal, and the third to stay with me ; but knowing that Batavia was the Hollanders' magazine for India, we proposed first to sail thither, and there to provide each for himself as well as he could. Having arrived, we were courte- ously received by the general ; and I, with Mr. Hill and another friend, all my party, were promised our passage to Europe in their East India fleet. About this time the general was sending four or five ships-of-war, with soldiers, to procure satisfaction from the king of the island for an outrage that had been committed on a party of Hollanders, who, to the number of eighty, had been slaughtered by the Javanese. These ships, it seems, were originally designed against Sillebar, an English settlement on the west coast of Sumatra : but this act of hostility happening to in- tervene, it had diverted their purpose, and saved the factory for this time. There were now in Batavia twenty of us, who, on hearing this news, would willingly have repaired to Sillebar ; but the Dutch would by no means permit it, though we had bought a sloop for that purpose. This project failing, Mr. Hill, another friend, and I, embarked on board the Solida InJiamen, bound to Holland ; and when leaving the road, saw our ship, Captain John Eaton, coming in ; however, we held our course ; but finding the wind unfavourable, turned down to Bantam to take in provisions, and thence steered to Prince's Island, where we lay for a fair wind three weeks. About the end of March, set sail again with the wind at N. W., and sliaped our course to the Cape of Good Hope. On the 11th of May, after a pleasant passage, made the land called Point Primicra, bearing N. W. distant 12 leagues. We had the wind at N. E., being distant from the cape 560 miles, the land tending away S. W. by W. The fish which came about the ship near the Island of Mona, the 30th of March, left us now, when we judged ourselves in latitude 32 degrees 47 minuted south. From the 15th of May to the 29th, we had sailed only 96 miles ; but observing next day, found by the latitude that we had a very strong current, that had driven the ship to the southward 34 miles farther than by the reckoning ; for we thought we had been in the latitude of 33 degrees 41 minutes south, whereas we found our- selves in laiitude 34 degrees 15 minutes south, the course having been S. W. 40 miles. I argued the reason with the chief-mate of the ship, and he told me it once happened in this place that they lay-to with three main-sails, and the wind at \V. S. W., three days ; and when they took their observation, found their ship driven to windward 200 English miles ; and likewise in latitude 36 degrees 37 minutes, it is said, often find the raiae curious occurence. COWLEY. g?* From hence to the 27th nothing remarkable happened ; but on that iay the wind blew a furious storm from W. S. W. We lay-to with main- eails, and found we were in latitude 30 degrees 2 minutes S.^coming in with the land ; and now the current went to the eastward, so that we heaan to fear losing our passage by the cape. Tiie captain, who had long been sick, was now judged to be past recovery, and in the middle of the night died : this occasioned a great deal of confusion, and to add to our diffi- culties, water began to fail, and we were reduced to a pint a day per man. On the 1st of June again came in sight of Innd. It appeared like a round hill, flat at top, and bore from us N. N. E., with a smaller hill to the eastward. Next day we were before the harbour of the cape, with the wind at north, and fine fair weather. On the third, at night, came to an anchor in the bay before the castle, in nine fathoms water. This day four of the natives came down to the city, dancing naked, and offcrincr their wives to the Hollanders for little bits of tobacco. They were thu filthiest met; I ever saw. Next day my two friends and I walked about the town, in which are about 100 houses, built very low, to save them from the boisterous gales of wind that blow here in the months of Decem- ber, January, and February : but the Dutch have here a strong castle, with eighty guns well mounted, and a spacious garden, with pleasant walks, and planted with almost every kind of fruit, flowers, and herbs. This is the greatest rarity that we saw at the cape. We walked, more- over, without the town to the village inhabited by Hottentots, so called by the Hollanders, who are the natives of the country. These people are said to be born white, but make themselves black by anointing their bodies, and exposing their infants to the sun and smoke. Their houses, or huts, are built in a circular form, with the fire-place in the middle, round which they all lie in common, covered only with the skins of some beasts, and without any other bed than the ashes of the wood on which they dress their meat. They eat anything that is foul, and will gather from the dimghills the offal that is thrown out by the Dutch to feed their dogs. Their men are not at all jealous of foreigners ; but will beat their wives unmercifully for adultery with their neighbours. When the women marry, they cut ofi" a joint of the middle finger ; and if the husband dies, and the widow marries again, she cuts off another joint ; and so many men as they marry, so many joints of their fingers they lose. They are supposed to worship the moon, because at the full and change they as- semble in great numbers, dancing awl rejoicing when she shines, but howling and lamenting when they are deprived of her light. It happened, while we were at the cape, that one of the Hottentots drank himself dead at the fort, of which his countrymen, getting intelli- gence, assembled about him, and with oil and milk endeavoured to reco- ver the defunct ; but finding all their efl^orts vain, and that thev could perceive no spark of life remaining, began to make preparations for his funeral, which was performed in the following manner. They first brought knives, and shaved him from head to foot ; then, digging a hole in the ground, carefully placed him in a sitting posture, with his body and head erect, and his legs and thighs stretched out horizontally, and pressed down straight ; this being performed, they propped him up in this attitude with stones ; and then came a company of their women to howl over the body, who accompanied their lamentations with a hideous shrieking, as if death appeared before them in the shape of a monster, and was ready to devour ihem. After their time of mourning was over, they filled up the hole with earth, and covered it over with the green turf. We were now three 98 Voyages rounu the world. ships in company, to sail for Europe, the Sohda and Critsman, which cam* together from Batavia, and the Emeland, which came from Bengal. On Tuesday ,"ihe IGth, pursued our course to the N. W. and N. W. by W. till Tuesday, the 29th, without any material incident intervening. On the 12th of July, came otl'lhe Island of Ascension, and next day took a new departure from thence. On the 20th, found we were in lati- tude 15 degrees north. Wednesday the 22d, made the longitude from the cape ] 1 degrees 56 minutes, judging ourselves to be in longitude 355 degrees 5fi minutes. And now it was that I cut the same line which I did when I departed from Virginia in the year 1683, having encompassed the globe ; and cannot but note, that I have been farther southward than any man that I ever heard or read of before me. in this voyage ; having, as I have already said, reached as far as latitude 60 degrees 30 minutes south ; and so it happened, th?t, being bound to go north about Scotland to make Holland, I passed about 60 degrees north, though I mention this as no extraordinary thing. We met with no particular occurrence till the 2d of August, when our captain, after three days' illness, died of a pain m his bowels. His chief steersman was made commander in his room ; but, though his cause was warmly espoused by the men on a former oc- casion, yet it was not till after much opposition that they acquiesced in his present advancement. On Sunday, the 19th, when the weather began to clear up, I saw land, as did also two men more. I supposed it to be the Island of Shetland ; but our captain would not believe it ; however, about six in the evening, the Critsman's people saw land also. We came up with the Isle of Far- ley by the 22d, steered on, and on the 25th had the wind all round the compass. Next day, with the wind at E. S. E., we found ourselves in latitude 53 degrees 35 minutes north, and I judged us to be on the West- bank. On Tuesday, the 2Sth, came before the Maes, with the wind at E. N. E. When it was day we saw the Brill church, and came to an an- chor in ten fathoms water. Next day we entered the harbour at Helvoet- sluys, after having been seven months in our passage from Batavia. CAPTAIN WOODES ROGERS.— 1708-11. Theke are few voyages which have been undertaken with equal pru* dence, or for which such careful and ample preparations have been madei as for the following, which was in a great measure owing to the spirit of the gentlemen of Bristol, at whose expense, and for whose emolument, the undertaking was set on foot. The first care of the gentlemen con- cerned was, to make a proper choice of officers, in which they were ex- tremely fortunate. Captain Woodes Rogers, who commanded in chief, was a bold, active, indefatigable officer ; and was chosen by the proprie- tors for the peculiar att he had of maintaining his authority over the sailors, and his readiness in finding out expedients in the most difficult conjunctures. Captain Stephen Courtney was a man of birth, fortune, and many amiable qualities, and had contributed largely to the expense of the voyage. Mr. Thomas Dover, third in command, was also a pro- prietor ; he was by profession a physician, and the same who afterward made a considerable noise in the world, by recommending the use of crude mercury ; he was a man of a rough temper, and not easily pleased ; but as he had not the chief command, this was of the less consequence. Mr. Ed- ward Cooke, who had been twice taken by the French, was second captaio WOODES ROGERS. 99 to Mr. Courtney, and the chief pilot was Captain William Dampier, whose name was sufficiently terrible to the Spaniards in the South Seas. They sailed from King-road, Bristol, on the Ist of August, 1708, their force consisting of the Duke, a ship of HOO tons burthen, thirty guns, and 170 men, commanded by Captain Woodes Rogers ; and the Duchess, of 270 tons, twenty-six guns, and 151 men, under the command of Cap- tain Stephen Courtney ; both ships having legal commissions from his royal highness. Prince George of Denmark, lord-high-admiral of Enghind, to cruise on the coasts of Pern and Mexico, in the South Seas, against her majesty's enemies, the French and Spaniards ; and to act jointly, as belonging to the same owners, the merchants of Bristol. On the 5th of August, saw the Irish shore, and came to an anchor m sight of Kinsale, where a pilot came on board the Duke, and undertook to steer her itito the cove of Cork. Instead of which, on the morning of the Gth, while it was yet dark, and the weather foggy, he would have carried her into a bay to the westward of Cork, had not Captain Rogers, who happened to be well acquainted with the coast, prevented him, and brought he-r into the cove himself, where she came to an anchor the same day. \V'hile in this harbour, they took in a good quantity of provi- sions, and enlisted a number of seamen, in the room of about forty fellows, some of whom ran away, and others were discharged as unfit for the ser- vice. The compliment was now 333, among whom above a third of the number were foreigners of various nations ; there was one negro and ten boys ; and of the English and Irish, a great many were tinkers, tai- lors, haymakers, pedlers, and fiddlers. With this mixed crew they sailed from Cork on the 1st of September, in company with the Hastings inan- of-war, which sailed with them till the 6th, when Captain "Paul, who commanded her, supplied them with several necessaries which they had omitted to bring with them, nor would he accept of any return ; where- upon they gave him a letter to Alderman Batchelor and the rest of the j)roprietors at Bristol. About si.x o'clock, on the morning of the 10th, discovered a sail, to which they immediately gave chase, and came up with her about three in the afternoon, when she bore down, showing Swedish colours. They fired at her twice, after which she brought-to ; they suspected, from some expressions uttered by two or three of her hands, whom they found drunk, that she had contraband goods on board ; but finding, after a strict exa- mination of the master and several of his men, that it would be difficult to prove her a prize, and being unwilling to lose time by carrying her into port, they let lier depart without farther detention. ■ The master appeared to be very thankful that he was detained so short a time, and at his de- parture, presented Captain Rogers with some dried beef and two hams ; in return for which he received a dozen bottles of redstreak cider. She was a ship belonging to Stadt, of 270 tons burthen, and twenty-two guns, and had sailed round Scotland and Ireland. On her leaving the Duke and Duchess, she saluted them with four guns. During the time the ship was in custody, a design had been privately formed on board the Duke, by four inferior officers, to make a prize of her; and when they found she was given up, they began to m\itmy ; but Gyles Cash, the boatswain, being displaced and, with ten others, put ia irons, and a severe whipping given to some of the principal leaders of the disturbance, all was quiet again, and things began once more to move in their proper channel. A like inclination had appeared among the hands on board the Duchess, but when those on board the other ship were 100 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. brought to obedience, it subsided. After this, however, they had some trouble with these mutineers. On the I4th of September, some of the ship's company, headed by a bold daring fellow, came up to Captain Ro- gers at the steerage-door, and demanded the discarded boatswain out of irons. The captain gave them good words, and having taken the ring- leader aside, as if to speak privately with him on the quarter-deck, had him suddenly seized by the help of the officers, and lashed by one of his own followers. The next day he sent the boatswain, in irons, on board the Crown galley, of Biddeford, which had kept them company since the 6ih instant, and left them on the 15th. On the 16th the captain dis- charged the prisoners out of irons, on their acknowledging their sorrow for what was past, and promising better behaviour for the time to come. In the afternoon of the 17th, gained sight of the peak of Teneriff, and the next day took a Spanish bark of twenty-five tons, bound from Orata- via to Fuerteventura, with forty-five passengers, men and women, on board, among whom was a p'iest. On the 19th, bore away for Oratavia road, and sent the master of the Spanish vessel on shore with the priest, to agree about her ransom, and to get wine, provisions, and other neces- saries for both ships. They were accompanied by Mr. Carlton Van- burgh, who went on this errand contrary to the opinion and inclination of Captain Rogers. Soon afterward a boat came from the town with a letter directed to the Captains Rogers and Courtney, expostulating with them for making prize of the bark, and alleging that Mr. Vanburgh should be detained till she was restored, to keep which was not only against a private contract entered into between Spain and England, relative to the Canaries, but would be of the utmost detriment, as well to the trading subjects of both crowns, as to several English merchants residing on these islands ; of whom a tenfold satisfaction would be exacted. This letter was signed by John Poulden, vice-consul, and three merchants, Bernard Walsh, John Crosse, and George Fitzgerald. The captains agreed on ansvvermg this letter, to this effect ; that in Keeping the bark they acted up to their instrnctions ; that they knew no- thing of any private articles in favour of the ships of these islands ; that in case Mr. Vanburgh was not restored, they would carry away all the prisoners they had ; and if they apprehended any detriment to the fac- tory, they might ransom the bark, and seek their redress in England. They desired despatch, there being no time to lose ; and said, that upon sending back Mr. Vanburgh, they would release their prisoners. At length, after other letters had passed between them, Mr. Crosse, one of the English merchants who had signed the above-mentioned letters, came off m a boat on the 22d, bringing with him Mr. Vanburgh, to gelher with five butts of wine, some hogs, grapes, and other things. Upon which the captains ordered the goods to be taken out of the prize, which they sold to Mr. Crosse for 450 dollars, and put the prisoners on board ; but at the request of Mr. Vanburgh, whatever could be recovered of the effects belonging to any of them, were returned, particularly their crosses, relics and books ; and Captain Rogers made a present of a cheese to the priest. On the 25th of September passed the tropic, when about sixty of the crew, who had never been this course before, were ducked three times, by hoisting them half way up the main-yard with a rope to which they were made fast, and sousing them into the water : this dipping was of great service to some of them, as it cleansed them from the dirt and filth which they had contracted in the voyage, Those who chose to paj WOODES ROGERS. 101 half a crown, to be spent in merry-making among the ship's crew on their return to Enj^land, were excused from this ceremony. On the 30lh of September discovered St. Lucia, one of the Cape de Verd islands, and about eleven o'clock anchored in the harbour of St. Vincent, where, as they knew the island to be uninhabited, and saw several men on shore, Captain Cook went in the pinnace to learn who they were, and found them to be Portuguese from the Island of St. Antonio, come to catch turtle. On the 3d, it was determined to send Joseph Alexander, their linguist, with a respectful letter to the governor of these islands, desiring leave to trade for refreshments, as being subjects of Great Britain and allies of the crown of Portugal. During their stay the linguist deserted. The deputy-governor, who was a negro, came on board the Duke, and brought with him tobacco, brandy, hogs, fowls, oranges, limes, musk- melons, and watermelons ; for which he was paid in prize goods of small value. While they lay here to clean their ships,- and take in wood and water, a committee was held on board the Duchess, in which certain regulations were made relative to prizes and plunder, which were agreed to by all parties. Care was also taken to prevent too common a prac- tice among the sailors, of selling their clothes to the negroes and natives of these islands for brandy and other trifles. There are ten islands, only seven of which are inhabited : these are St. Jago, St. Nicholas, Bona- vista, St. Antonio, Brava, Mayo, and Fuego, which last is so called from its volcano ; St. Nicholas and St. Jago are the most populous, the lat- ter of which is a bishop's see, and bears the same name with the island. Here is also a considerable town, said to contain upward of 500 houses, the principal commodities of which are tobacco, sugar, indigo, and goat skins, from which the fine morocco leather is made. Their goats, which are fat and well tasted, yean once in four months, and have three or four kids at a time. The soil in this neighbourhood is but indifferent, but the valleys produce corn and grapes. The ships set sail on the 8th of October, in the evening, after having put the deputy-governor on shore. On the 22d, Mr. Page, second mate of the Duchess, being ordered to a birth on board the Duke, from whence Mr. Ballet was to remove on board the Duchess, he (Page) refused to change his ship, aad Captain Cook insisting that he should, he struck him ; but he was at length brought on board the Duke, and Captain Ro- gers condemned him to irons. Before the sentence was put in execution, he desired to go to the head, when he jumped overboard, and endeavour- ed to swim back to ihe Duchess, where, as the captains were both ab- sent, he might have excited the men to mutiny ; but tho boat, which was alongside, followed and brought him back, when he was heartily lashed, and then confined in irons till the 29th, when he was set at liberty, on promise of better behaviour. On the 14th they came within sight of the land of Brazil, and on tho 18th carne to an anchor before the Island of Grande, in eleven fathoms wa- ter. While they lay here, new quarrels arose, and things had certainly come to an extremity on board the Duchess, if Captain Courtney had not put eight of the ringleaders into irons, which frightened the rest, and, in all probability, prevented an attempt to run- away vvith the ship. On the 20th, Mr. Dampier and a lieutenant commanded two boats, which were sent to the watering place, to see that it was clear of enemies ; when they found a Portuguese boat, the people of which complained that they had lately been robbed by the French. On this day four men, 9' 102 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. who had been observed to be very forward in mutinies, were put into irons ; and in the evening Captain Cook and Lieutenant Pope went to Angro de Reys, a village about three leagues distant, called by the Portuguese, Nostra Senora de la Conceptione, with a present of butter and cheese to the governor, and a request of his friendship. As they approached the shore, the inhabitants, mistaking them for French, fired (several times, but did no damage, and entreated their pardon as soon as they discovered their mistake. The governor being at the city called Rio de Janeiro about twelve leagues distant, they were hospitably entertained by a friar, who informed them the French had lately plundered, and used them very ill. Several of the inhabitants came from the town on the 22d, with canoes laden with corn, fowls, limes, and other provisions, which they exchanged for a few trifles : to these people the captain behaved with the utmost civili- ty, and promised a handsom^- reward to those who should secure any of the ileserters from the ships. A Portuguese vessel coming to an anchor near to the ships on the 23d, laden with negroes, who were brought to work in the gold mines up the country. Captain Rogers fitted out and armed the pinnace, to go and inquire whence she came ; to which the captain replied in a very satis- factory manner, and sent back some very fine sugar and a pot of sweet- meats, as a present to the English captains. The Portuguese are e.xtremely careful to conceal the roads leading to their mines from all other nations ; and they affirm that the distance from the seaports to these sources of wealth is prodigiously great. It was not long before this, that some French bucaniers, who put in here to water, seized above 1201) weight of gold in boats, the land road being almost impassable, leading from Rio de Janeiro to the mines. Captain Dover and Mr. Vanburgh, having been out to take their pleasure in the pinnace, on the 24th of this month, returned with a creature that smfilt intolerably; the skin of which was covered with fur, stuck full of quills or prickles, like a hedge-hog, and its head resembled that of a monkey. Several Portuguese, and among them some Franciscan friars, who came alongside the ship, affirmed that the nauseous smell arose only from the sldn, and that the flesh was very fine eating ; but it was so very oflTensive, thnt none of the sailors could be prevailed upon to try it. On the 25th two men deserted from the Duchess, and made their escape into the woods ; but in the night were so terrified by the noise made by baboons and monkeys, which they mistook for the hovvling of tigers, that they ran back and plunged into the water, hailing the ship, and praying to be tiken on bi):ird agiin. On the same day two Irish land-men got away from the Duke, but were taken on shore two days afterward, while, they were waiting for a Portuguese canoe to carry them to some other place, and, being brought on board. Captain Rogers ordered them to be sevvirply whipped, wnd then put in irons. About four o'clock in the morning, the day before these fellows were retaken, the watch on the quarter-deck espied a canoe, and called her to come on board, but the people not answering, and striving to get away, caused a suspicion that thev had either got deserters, or were going, by agreement, to fetch them off the island. On this, the pinnace and yawl were immedi;itely despatched after them : the pinnace coming up near the canoe, fired to stop them, but to no purpose; at length one of the Indians, who rowed the canoe, was wounded ; the person who owned and steered her w»s a friar, who had a quantity of gold which he baJ WOODES ROGERS. 103 got in the mines, by confessing the ignorant people. This man ran the canoe on shore on a little island full of wood, just as his pursuers landed, and was attempting to make his escape, but a Portuguese, who had no gold to lose, called him back. He was taken with the other prisoners on board the ship, and civilly entertained by Captain Rogers ; the poor In- dian died in about two hours afterward, and the friar was inconsolable, threatening to seek redress either in England or Portugal for the death of his slave, and the loss of his gold, which possibly he had dropped in the bustle, or buried at the place where the canoe ran on shore. Captains Rogers and Courtney, and some of the other officers, on the 27th October, went in a boat to the town of Angre de Reys, to see a procession in honour of the Virgin Mary. The Portuguese governor, who treated them with the utmost politeness, requested that their music, which consisted of a hautboy and two trumpets, might be permitted to assist at divine service instead of an organ ; which request was readily complied with. When the service of the church was ended, the musi- cians, who were by this time half drunk, marched at the head of the procession, in which was carried lamps of incense, a host, and an imago of the Virgin Mary adorned with flowers, surrounded with wax candles, borne on a bier by four men, and followed by the guardian of the convent, about forty priests and friars, the governor of the town, Captain Rogers, Captain Courtney, and the other officers of their company, every one of whom carried a wax taper through complaisance. 8ome junior priests and the principal inhabitants of the place, every one with his consecrated candle, closed the procession. The ceremony ended, a genteel entertain- ment was provided for the English gentlemen at the convent ; and the governor, whose house was at three miles distance, accommodated the rest of the company at the guard-house, where twenty soldiers were sta- tioned, under the command of a lieutenant and an ensign. The town of Angre de Reys consists of about sixty low houses, poor- ly built, ill-furnished, and covered witli palmetto leaves ; it has two churches, and a monastery of Franciscan friars, plainly furnished, but neat and decent. The friars possessed some black cattle, but did not choose to sell any. Perhaps the mean appearance of the place might have been owing to their having secreted their best effects, as they had so lately been plundered by the French. The officers returning on board, sent the boat back to the town for liquor, together with an invitation to the principal gentlemen of the place to return the visit on board, with which they complied, and were extremely merry. When the liquor began to operate, thev toasted the pope's health, arid Captain Rogers in return gave the Archbishop of Canterbury, and William Penn, the famous quaker, which they readily pledged. The Island of Grande is remarkably high land, and about nine leagues long. It abounds with monkeys and other wild beasts ; has plenty of timber and excellent water ; and oranges, lemons, and guaives grow wild in the woods. The rivers and bays abound with fish, among which the shark is reckoned the most remarkable ; it has three rows of teeth, a very rough skin, and the old ones especially taste very strong: they are ten feet long, and usually attended by a fish called the pilot-fish, which finds out prey for them, and whom, it is said, they never devour. The shark is a very heavy fish, and his mouth lying under the head, he is obliged to turn on his back to catch his prey ; and in this manner he often catches hold of the limb of a man who is swimming, which he takes off at a bite ; he is, however, s^on sickened by playing with a^ line, though e.xtreraely 104 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. strong under water. The pilot-fish is exceedingly like a mackerel when swimming in the water, and looks as if it were painted blue and white in a circular form, something like a barber's pole ; but there is another kind of pilot-fish, of a deep blue when out of the water, the back speckled like a seal's skin, the belly of a higher colour than the back and sides, and the scales smooth like those of a tench. One of these, which was eight inches long and three broad, was struck by Captain Cook with a harpooning-iron. They sailed out of the Bay of Grande on the Ist of December, steer- ing for Juan Fernandez ; on the 5th of January, encountered a violent storm, which drove such a quantity of water into the Duchess, that they expected she would sink every moment. As the men were going to sup- per about nine o'clock at night, she shipped a sea at the poop, which beat in the bulk-head and all the cabin-windows, and drove the first lieutenant half way between the decks together with several pistols and muskets, that were hanging there, dartmg a sword that was against the bulk-head of the cabin, through a hammock and rug that hung againit the bulk-head of the steerage. Had the bulk-head of the great cabin not given way, those who were in the other cabin must certainly havo been drowned before the water could have run off. It is astonishing that many of the men were not killed with the shutters, the bulk-head, and the arms, which were driven with amazing violence. However, the yawl was staved on the deck, and one or two of the men were wounded, and all the clothes in the ship were excessive wet — chests, hr-mmocks and bed- ding being soaked to such a degree, that they had not a rag of anything dry to cover them. On the 17th, took an observation, by which they found they had got round Cape Horn, Terra del Fuego, and the straits of Magellan, being then to the northward of Cape Vittoria. About thii time, the scurvy began to make a great havoc among the crews, but on the 2Gth saw land, which they took to be part of the coast of Chili. They now bore away for the Island of Juan Fernandez, which appear- ed in sight on the last day of January, and nest day Captain Dover, second captain of the Duke, manned the pinnace, and went off in search of provisions, as well as to find a convenient place for the ship to anchor. Perceiving, as soon as it grew dark, a fire kindled on the island, it was imagined that there were ships in the road ; this light was also seen by those on board the ships, who thought it proceeded from French vessels at anchor, and imagined they should be under a necessity of fighting them, or remain in want of water, and the ships were ordered to prepare for an engagement. Captain Dover returned on board with the pinnace about two o'clock in the morning, having been afraid to land, on seeing the fire on shore. Ne.xt day, while still under apprehensions of an enemy, they stood in for the shore, from which blew such sudden and frequent gusts of wind, that they were forced to reef their top-sail, and stand by the masts, lest they should go by the board ; they now expected to find the enemy ; but seeing all cle^r, and no ships either in that bay or in another to the northward, conjectured that some ships had been there, but had departed on seeing them. About noon, sent the yawl ashore, with Captain Dover, Mr. Fry, and six men, well armed ; but as they did not speedily return. Captain Rogers sent his pinnace, well manned, to inquire into the occasion of their stay ; for he began to fear that the Spaniards might have a garrison there, and had raade them prisoners. They therefore put out a signal for the yawl. WOODES ROGERS. l65 and the Duchess showed a French ensign. The boats returned toward evening, and brought with them abundance of cray-lish, and a man clothed in goats' skins, who appeared wilder than the goats themselves. This man had been on the island four years and four months, having been left there by Captain Straddling, commander of a vessel called the Cinque Ports, of which this person, whose name was Alexander Selkirk, had been master. Captain Dampier, who had been at that time on board Captain Straddling's ship, informed Captain Rogers that Selkirk was the oest sailor on board her ; wheieon he was immediately made mate of the Duke. It was he who had made the fire the last night, when he saw the ship, which he imagined to be Englisli. During his abode on the island, he had seen several ships pass by, but only two came to an an- chor ; on which, he went to reconnoiire, and finding them to be Spa- niards, retired, and escaped, notwithstanding they shot at him. Had they been French, he would have submitted but he chose rather to run the risk of dying alone on the island, than fall into the hands of the Spa- niards ; apprehending that they would either make him a slave in the mines or murder him ; as he could by no means suppose they would spare any stranger, who was so well acquainted with the South Seas. These Spaniards had landed before he knew what they were ; and they came so near that it was with great difficulty he escaped, for after they had fired, they pursued him to the woods, where he climbed to the top of a tree, at the foot of which some, who were searching for him, killed several goata within his siuht ; but at length departed without discovering him. Mr Selkirk said he was a native of Largo, in the county of Fife, in Scotland, and bred a sailor from his youth. That the reason of his being left on the island, was a difference between him and hij captain, which, together with the ship's being leaky, made him at first willing to stay there, rather than go with him ; and that afterward, when he altered his mind, and would gladly have gone oi! board, the captain would not re- ceive him. He had been at this island before to wood and water, at which time their vessel was chased ihence by two French ships, leaving two of the crew on the island ; but after they had been there six months, the ship returned and took them off. He had his clothes and bedding with him, also a firelock, a Utile powder, some bullets, and tobiscco ; a hatchet, a kettle, a knife, a bible, some books of practical divinity, and his mathematical instruments and books. He diverted and provided for himself as well as he could, but for the first eight months he was ex- tremely melancholy, and could hardly support the terror of being alone in such a desolate place. He built two huts with pimento trees, covered them with long grass, and lined them with the skins of goats, which ho killed with his gun as he wanted, so long as his powder, which was but a pound, lasted. He procured fire by rubbing two sticks of pimento wood upon his knee. In the smaller hut, which was at some distance from the other, h« dressed his victuals ; and in the larger he slept, and employed himself in reading, singing psalms, and praying ; so that he said he was a better Christian while in this solitude, than he was before or than, he feared, he ever should be again. When first left alone, he eat nothing till con- strained to it by mere hunger, which aiose partly from the want of bread and salt, and partly from the excess of his grief; nor did he go to bed till he was able to keep awake no longer. The pimento wood, which burnt very clear, served him both for fire and candle, »nd refreshed htm with its fragrant smell. He could have pro- 106 VOYAGES ROUND THfi WORLD. cured fish enough, but w6uld not eat them for want of salt, because they occasioned a looseness, except a sort of cray-fish, which were extremely good, :ind as large as our lobsters. These he sometimes broiled, and at other times boiled, as he also did the goat's flesh, and made very good broth, for the taste of it is much more pleasant than that of the goats of England and Wales. He kept an account of five hundred of these ani- mals which he had killed, and as many more which he caught, and ha- ving marked them on the ear. let them go again. When his powder was gone, he look them by out-running them; for his way of livmg and his continual exercise of walking and running, had so cleared his i)ody of all gross humours., that he ran with wonderful swiftness through the woods and up the rocks and hills, as the people belonging to the ships perceived when they employed him to catch goats for them ; they had a bull-dog which they sent, with several of their nimblest rurmers, to assist him in catching gouts; but he distanced and tired both men and dog, catching the goats and bringing them on his back. He told them that his agility in pursuing a goat had once like to have cost him his life ; he pursued it with so much eagerness, that he caught hold of it on the brink of a precipice, of which he was not aware, as the bushes concealed it from his sight ; so that he fell vviih the goat down the precipice, a prodigious height, and was so stimned and bruised with the fall, that he lay there insensible, as he imagined, about twenty-foui hours, and when he came to his senses he found the goat dead under him. He was so hurt that he was hardly able lo crawl to his hut, which was about a mile distant, nor wrts he able to go abroad again in less than ten days. He came at length to relish his meat wi-U enouijh without salt or bread, and found plenty of good turnips, which hid been solved there by Captain Dam- pier's men, and had now overspreaci some acres of ground. He had plenty of t'ood cabbage from the trees, and seasoned hi.< meal with the fruit of pimento trees coinmonlv called Jamaica*pepper. He found also a black pepper called malaijeta, which was very good to e.Kpel wind and prevent a griping in the bowels. He soon wore out his shoes as well as his clothes bv running in the woods, and at length his feel became so hard, thai he ran everywhere without difficulty ; and it was some time after he w;is found before he could wear shoes again, for not being used lo anv so long, his feet swelled when he came first lo put them on. After he hid conquered his melancholy, he diverted himself some- times with culling his name on the trees, together with the time of his being left, and continuance there. He was at first much pestered with rats, which harl bred in great numbers from some which had got on shore from ships, which put in there for wood and water. The rats gnawed his feet and clothes while he slept, so that he was obliged to cheri.sh some cats, which had .ilso bred from some that had got ashore from dif- ferent ships; these he fed with goat's flesh, by which many of them became so tame, that they would lie about him in hundreds, and soon delivered him from the rats. He likewise tamed some kids ; and to divert himself, would frequently sing and dance with them and his cats ; so that bv the favour of Providence, and the vigour of youth, he being now onlv thirty years of age, he at Iruigth was enabled to conquer all the in- conveniences of his solitude, and became e.viremely easy. When his clothes were worn out he made a coat and a cap of goat's skin, sewed together with little thongs of the same, which he cut with his knife. Ho had no other needle but a nail, and when his knife was worn out he made Others as well as ho could of some iron hoops that were left ashore, WOODES R06EE.S. 107 which he beat straight and thin, and ground upon stones. Having some linen cloth, he cut out some shirts, which he sewed with the worsted of his old stockings, pulled out on purpose, using an old nail to make holes, instead of a needle, and he had liis last shirt on when he was found. At first going on board, he seemed much rejoiced, but had so far forgot his native language for want of use, that he could not speak plainly, only dropping a few words of English now and then, and wiihout connexion ; but m two or three days he began to talk, and then told them that his silence was involuntary ; for that having been so long on the island with- out any person with whom to converse, he had forgotten the use of his tongue. A dram was offered him, but he would not taste it, having drank nothmg but water for so long a time, and it was a good while before he could relish the victuals on board. He gave no account of any produce of the island, which had not been discovered before, except some black plums, which were very good, but f the church, where they made about twelve prisoners, while the rest marched to the other end of the town. From the time they landed till their seizing the guns and taking possession of the church, was not more than half an hour. Captain Dampier, with twenty-five men, was now posted at the guns, which he turned against the enemy, who soon fled from the town. By this time the rest of the English being landed, marched after Captain Courtney and Captain Dover. The men in aeneral behaved with the utmost courage, but, as is generally the case with sailors, they were kept but little under command after the first piece was fired ; but after the attack, they forbore hard drinking, and kept properly together. Captain liogers overtook Courtney and Dover at the other end of the town, where he left Courtney to keep guard at a church, and then re- turned to his first post, while Dainpier and his rnen went to reinforce Dover and Courtney. They were in quiet possession of the town by sun-set, having met with no opposition after the enemy quitted the great church. They now made a proper disposition of their guards, and in the evening Captain Rogers went on board the bark, settled a watch, and then returned ashore to the church. Captain Dover now set fire to tive or six houses which fronted the church, which burnt all night and the next day. The reason of burning these was, that there was a hill near this quarter, and thick woods within a musket-shot of the church, whence the enemy were almost continually firing at him during the whole night, but without doing any damage : and the next day several small parties of horse and foot came down, but retired without making any attempt. Had the Spaniards been courageous, they might have done great mischief to Captain Dover, as his friends were not near enough to assist him ; for the town being long, the whole of it could not be kept without dividing the men into parties at a considerable distance ; but his firing the houses ('.id him great service, by covering the worst part of his quarters for that night ; and at daybreak Captain Courtney relieved him, when they both quitted those quarters as a place too much exposed to the enemy. An Indian, who had been taken prisoner, informed Rogers that he knew of much money up the river in houses and bark-logs ; whereupon the Duchess's pinnace, with twenty-one men, commanded by Lieutenant Connelly, were sent up the river. As they had found but little wealth in the town, Captain Rogers was for sending both the pinnaces to seize that which the Indian had spoken of, but the others would by no means consent to it, lest the enemy should engage them in the absence of their boats and people. The English now began, with irop cr9w§ ^n^ 9th§i WOODES ROGERS. 115 instruments, to break open the churches an-J ;ill the store-houses, cellars (Sec, but in this ihey had very httle success, as scarcely anythimr w:is iefi in the town except flour, beans, peas, and jars of wine and brundv. These, however, they began to carry to thn water-siile, but as the wea- ther was wet, hot, and unhealthy, the men were so fatigued, and became so weak, that they could not well work at this employment. Numbers of the people were for taking up the boarded floor of tlie church, to search for treasure among the dead ; but Caj)tain Rogers absolutely for- bad its being done, because not long before their arrival ;t pestilential disease had carried off great numbers of people. They found only two of the enemy killed in the town, one of whom was the Irish gunner above-mentioned ; and made one prisoner, who was wounded in the head ; but on inquiry, they were told that fifteen were killed and wound- ed. Among the English only two were wounded. On the 24th the English colours were kept flying all day on the tow- ers of the church, where Captain Dover kept guard ; while Rogers and Courtney took care to have what they found most useful conveyed to the water-side. On this day the Governor of Puna and another prison- er were sent to the enemy, who were in the woods at about a league's distance, with proposals for ransoining the town. They returned in the evening with an ambiguous answer, but desired to be sent back again the next morning, in hopes to prevent the burning of the town. Tiiey had intelligence now that the enemy were coming down the hill ; on which ai: alarm was given, and part of the men being left with the guns, Captaia Rogers marched with the rest, and met Captain Courtney on the bridge, retiring, who reported that the enemy were numerous and well armed at the north end of the town. Rogers desiring they might inarch against them, Courtney consented ; whereupon they went forward with their whole force, which did not e.xceed seventy men ; but on their advancing, the Spaniards retired into the woods, from whence tiiey assailed them with firing shots, which the English returned at random ; and the cap- tains not agreeing about keeping possession of that end of the town, marched back, taking some of the most valuable effects, which they sent on board the barks. .\.bout ten o'clock at night the boat, which had been sent up the river, returned, having been absent about twenty-four hours. They had pro- ceeded about seven leagues, and sixteen of the men had landed at six different places, the others taking care of he boat, having a swivel gun to defend themselves. At one place they separated, atid four of the mea rambled so far into the woods in search of wealth that, after wandering about three hours, they could not find their v^ay back to their companions, but they met them again afterward, by mere accident, and got to the boat. They had, at different places, some skirmishes with the enemy ; and in particular, chased thirty-five horsemen, who were well armed, and coming to assist the inhabitants of Guaquil. They found the houses up the river full of women ; at one place there were above a dozen well dressed and handsome, from whom they took several gold chains and ear-rings ; but were in other respects so civil to them, that the ladies brought them a cask of good liquor, and offered to dress victuals for the party. Several of the largest gold chains they had concealed by fastening them round their middles, legs, and thighs ; but as in those hot countries the women go extremely thinly clothed in fine linen and silk, the men by pressing on the ©utside of their clothe? felt the chains, and by means 0/ 116 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD, their linguist, modestly desired them to take them off with their owr- hands. As they returned down the river, they called at this house for provisions, and as they had been so civil at first, the ladies expressed neither surprise nor uneasiness at a second visit. In their progress, they had seized a large empty bark, but thought proper to abandon her. They brought back with them, in plate, ear-rings, and gold chains, to the value of £1000, but were of opinion they lost much more than they got, for want of another boat ; for while they were upon the search on one side, the bark-logs and canoes crossed the river in their sight, carrying many persons, with their etTects, out of their reach. They also acquainted Captain Rogers, that in the places where they had been above the town, they had seen more than 300 armed horse and foot, in several parties, so that they apprehended the design of the enemy, in pretending to ransom, was to gain time till able to attack thorn with great superiority of num- bers. Hearing this, the English, for fear of a surprise, agreed to assem- ble in a body at every alarm, -vhich, on the sight of any large parties, was beat several times in a day. Three drums, several swords and lances, and a quantity of arms, five jar.5 of powder, together with some matches and shot, were found in the church, where Captain Rogers also found the corregidor's gold-headed cane, and another with a silver head ; for among the Spaniards, none carry a cane but the chief officers ; and no person must use one with a silver or gold head who is under the de- gree of a captain. About one in the afternoon of the 25th of April, the prisoners returned with an offer of 30,000 pieces of eight, as a ransom for the town, ships, and barks, to be paid within the space of twelve days ; which the cap- tains did not approve, nor would they have waited so long for a much larger sum, as they had received undoubted intelligence that the Spa- niards had sent an express to ijima, to hasten the succours expected thence. The captains, therefore, agreed upon sending this final answer : that the town should be set on fire by three o'clock the next afternoon, if sufficient hostages were not immediately delivered for the payment of 30,000 pieces of eight within six days ; and that in the interim a cessa- tion of arms should be granted. This day the enemy appeared thick in the woods ; and in the afternoon an officer and nine men were engaged at the north end of the town with a party of Spaniards, whom they drove into the woods. But following them too far, they were attacked by others, when one of the English was shot through the calf of the leg; and another, who was endeavouring to recharge his piece, received a shot upon the middle of his pole-axe that hung by his side, which made an impression upon the irons and bruised the flesh directly under it, but did no other material injury. The person who was shot in the leg, living irregularly and drinking hard, fell into a fever, which cost him his life. They laid this night in the church, keeping sentinels round it, within a musket-shot of each other, with a charge to challenge each other every quarter of an hour : and every man to keep his arms and ammunition in the most exact order, and be ready to rise at the least alarm. A French- man, belonging to Captain Rogers's company, who, with some others, had been sent to strengthen Captain Courtney's quarters, standing sentry in the night, shot one of the sailors dead. This accident was occasioned by a strict order that had been given to shoot every person in the night who did not answer on being challenged, which, as the challenge was given in French, the English sailor was not able to do. At two o'clock in the afternoon of the 26th, the prisoners returned from the enemy, WOODEi? ROGERS 117 With two horsfittien, who Informed them their last proposal was agreed to ; and that the Governor of Puna, who had been very instrumental in bringing the affair to a conclusion, together with an old gentleman on board one of the barks, were to reniani as hostages for the performance of it ; but the messengers said, that if these gentlemen were not thought sufficient securi',y, they themselves were willing to remain prisoners ; which was not insisted upon, but they were permitted to return to the camp, to bring back the agreement signed. The two hostages lay this night at the English quarters, and the next morning were put on board one of the ships, while the English retired from the city with drums beating and colours flying, leaving the Spa- niards at full liberty to return to their houses. Captain Rogers, who, with a few men, brought up the rear, picked up many cutlasses, pole- axes, and pistols, which the men, who were grown quite weary of a mili- tary life, dropped through laziness as they marched. Their greatest difficulty was in getting the guns down to the water-side, the ground being soft ; the men who helped to carry them sunk to the depth of half a leg. To remedy as much as possible this inconvenience, they con- trived a frame of bamboo canes, under which six men could stand, and bear an equal weight on their shoulders. Though they were large four pounders, the gun and frame not exceeding 1300 weight, yet they would not have been able to have performed their work if the prisoners had not assisted. As Captain Rogers was marching out of the town, ho missed one John Gabriel, a Dutchman, whom he apprehended was either killed or made prisoner : but the fellow had taken up his quarters in a certain house where there was some excellent brandy ; of which he drank so freely, that at last it laid hitn on the floor, and in this condition he was when Captain Rogers and his men left the town. A little while afterward, the master of the house returned, and found the Dutchman stretched at his full length, and so drunk that it was difficult to distinguish whether he was dead or asleep. The Spaniard, however, determined to make the experiment : but first of all called in his neighbours, who advised him to secure the Dutchman's arms, which being done without any difficulty, they then raised him up and sat him on his feet, when, after a little tot- tering, he opened his eyes, and began to stare about him, not being very well satisfied to find himself awake in such company. His landlord, however, soon set his heart at rest, by restoring him his arms, and ad- vising him to make all the haste he could to join his companions, who were not yet embarked. There needed not much entreaty to set the Dutchman forward ; he moved with all imaginable alacrity, and soon got safe on board. Captain Rogers informs us this was the only man who had drank to an extraordinary degree since their first entering the town. The plunder they took, exclusive of the ransom received for the town, was very considerable ; being about 230 bags of flour, beans, peas, and rice, fifteen jars of oil, 160 jars of other liquors, some cordage, iron- ware, and small nails, about four half-jars of powder, about a ton of pitch and tar, a parcel of clothing and necessaries, about £1200 in plate, ear-rings, &c., 150 bales of dry goods, four guns, about 200 ordinary Spanish arms and musket barrels, a few packs of indigo, cocoa, and an- natto, with about a ton of loaf sugar. They left abundance of goods in the town, besides liquors of most sorts, and sea-stores, with several ware-houses full of cocoa, several ships on the stocks, and two new •hips unrigged lying at anchor. 118 VOYAGES ROTTND THE WORLD. The hostages informed them that, during the treaty, 80,000 pieces of eight, of the king's money, were sent out of the town, besides their plate, jewels, and other things of the greatest value ; from which it ap- pears, that if they had landed at first, and allowed the enemy no time, they had been much greater gainers than they were ; and, in th.it case, they were well assured they might have made to the value of 200,000 pieces of ei"ht in money, plate, and jewels ; and yet the place was then poorer than it had been for forty years past, having been almost burnt down about a year and a half before, which had occasioned a very great expense in the rebuilding. Guaquil, tlie metropolis of a province of that name in Peru, is in length aliout a mile and a half, and divided into two parts, called the Old and New Town, which are joined by a bridge about half a mile long, for the use only of foot passengers. On each side of the bridge are some houses at a distance : and the number of houses in both towns amount to above 500 ; the inhabitants are about 2000. Some of the houses were lofty brick-buildinors, but the majority of tim- ber or bamboos split, and many were decently furnished. In the mer- chants' store-houses were great quantities of meal, brandy, sugar, clothing, cordaoe, and iron. Some of the inhabitants had calashes, which could be but of little use, unless to carry them a stone's throw to church, for the ground is so boggy, especially in winter, that no road could be made for them This morass-groiinJ was full of large toads, some of them as biff as an English two- penny loaf The town is governed by a cor- regidor, who is the chief magistrate and appointed by the king. It is well situated for trade and ship buiklmg, lying seven leagues from Puna, and fourteen from Punta Arena, upon a large river, which receives many small ones that fall into it ; this river has many villages and farm-houses on its banks, on which grow abundance of mangroves and sarsaparilla, which, impregnating its waters, are said to render them efficacious against diseases. But when the floods come down from the mountains, the water is reckoned unwholesome, on account of its bringing down several poisonous plants and fruits, among which is the machanilla, a kind of poisonous apple, which kills all birds that taste of it ; and the English, while they were there, saw hundreds of them dead upon the water. Captain lloijers took his leave of the barks a mile below the town, with the pinnace double manned, designitig to get before ihem to the ships at Punta Arena. The day proved excessively hot, and they saw many alligators in the river. On the following day, which was the 28th of April, Captain Rogers reached Puna, where he met Mr. Duck and Mr. Hatley, in the Beginniiig, with an empty bark they had taken ; the Spa- niards having gone on shore, and left her at anchor off Punta Arena. The people left behind were much concerned at the delay of their com- panions, and the scarcity of water was so great that for some time past the prisoners had been allowed but a pint a day. They had also been obliged to sink a small prize which they had taken, to prevent the pri- soners running away with her, as they could not spare hands sufficient for manning her securely. Captain Rogers got on board by daylight, and found his people hear- tily rejoiced at his return, after an absence of twelve days, on an expe- dition subject to so many dangers and difficulties, all of which he had litippily surmounted. Lieutenants Cooke and Fry had, during this time, been under great uneasiness on account of the prisoners, to whom they allowed their liberty in the day-time, but at night were shut up in WOODES ROGERS. 119 the forecastle, or between decks. On board the prize, which was not so secure, they put them in irons every evening, and set them free in the morning ; but never allowed any correspondence between tiie prisoners in the several ships, by which means they were ignorant of their own strength and the weakness of their masters. A vessel coming in sight about three in the afternoon of the 29th of April, Captain Cook despatched the Havre de Grace's boat, well manned, in pursuit, and she immediately surrendered. She proved to be a bark of thirty tons burthen, laden with beans, peas, quinces, marmalade, plums, apples, oranges, pomegranates, Guaquil shet^p, 270 sacks of flour, 200 sugar loaves, and some dried beef. She had six men on board, besides the master ; had been or.t seven days from Pulania, where they had left some stout French ships ; and orders had been lately received from Lima, directing them to keep a good look-out, as an English squa- dron was soon expected in those sea?, but that it was not known against what particular place they were bound They waited with impatience from this time to the 2d of May, in ex- pectation of the ransom for the town of Guaquil, and they now began to think that the corregidor meant to parley with them till forces should arrive from Lima ; and the hostages expected no better fate than to be carried prisoners to England. They were in some degree relieved from thfise uneasy reflections by the arrival of a boar in the evening, with 22,000 pieces of eight, in part payment ; upon which many of the pri- soners were put on shore, and a message lo the corregidor sent back by the same boat, informing him they intended to sail the next day, and would carry the hostages away with them, if the remainder of the money was not sent before their departure. In a short time after this, Captain Courtney took charge of the Havre de Grace, and fell down with her to Punta Arena, to which place Captain Rogers agreed to follow him the next morning, waiting only to take on board some hogs, sheep, black cattle, plantains, cocoas, water, sails, and other necessary matters, which were still on shore. Before his departure he put on shore the governor of Puna, who was one of the hostages, making him several presents. A boat came on the next day, with some 3000 dollars more, and the persons who brought it declared the remainder, and also 1200 dollars to trade for goods, should soon come. But Captain Courtney being of opinion this was only a pretence for detaining them till a squadron of ships could be fitted out at Lima, insisted they should nnmediately quit this station, in which he was seconded by a majority of the officers, on which they resolved to make all possible despatch. The Beginning being small, and of no farther use, they sold her to the Spaniards for about the value of fifty pounds sterling, which was paid in gold chains, pearls. &c., and they put the prisoners on board ; but kept the pilots, together with a person who could speak English, the son of the President of Panama, and three remaining hostages. They now bore away for the Gallapagos islands, with a strong gale at south-south-west; and, discovering land on the 17th, by daybreak next morning were within four leagues of two large islands, nearly joined to- gether. Having first agreed where to meet in case of separation, they now sent their boat on shore twice in search of water, but she returned with a melancholy account that none was to be found, and that the island was nothing but loose earth, very rotten and heavy, which broke like cinders under their feet; and the ground was so parched that it would not bear the weight of a man, which induced Captain Rogers to 120 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. btlieve it had been a volcano, though, he says., there was some greens and shrubs upon it. The Duchess having caught a considerable quan- tily of turtle and other fish, distributed it on the 21st among the sick of both ships, which, as their provisions were nearly exhausted, proved ot the utmost service. But their present iinhappiness was not a little m- creased, by finding the medicines begin to run short, while the sick drop- ped off apace ; it was observed that none died except those who were on shore at Guaquil. • v i On the 22cl Mr. Hatloy, with five men on board one of the prize barks, having water on board for only two days, together with a galleon, another of the prize ships, were missing : nor was their any sign of their leturn- ing, though lights were kept at the top-mast heads of the Duke and Duchess all night, and guns continually fired. Captain Rogers, with the Duke, the Havre de Grace, and the bark, went directly in search of them, and came up with the galleon in a few hours, near the easternmost island ; but could obtain no intelligence of Hatley, whom they began to give up for lost. Tt was agreed in a council of officers, on the 26ih, to stand over to the main in search of water, which could not be found on any of the islands. On the 6th of June, a discourse was overheard by one of the sailors, between the Indian and black prisoners, who proposed to murder the English, and run away with the ship. On being charged •with it, they denied having designed any such thing ; but acknowledged they had had some conversation of the kind, without, however, any seri- ous intentions ; to prevent any evil consequences that might arise from these cabals, Captain Rogers divided them among the other ships. On this day the Duchess, after a short chase, took a vessel of ninety tons burthen, named the St. Thomas de Villa Nova, Juan Navan-o Na- varet commander, bound from Panama to Guaquil. There were on board about forty passengers, among whom was Don Juan Cardosa, going to take upon him the command of Baldivia, of which place he had been appointed governor. On the 7th they anchored about a cable's length from the shore, on the east side of the Island of Gorgona, and on the 8th the boats of the Duke and Duchess seized a bark of fifteen tons burthen, called the Golden Sun, with ten Spaniards and Indians on board, toge- ther with a few negroes. She had no cargo e.xcept a small quantity of gold dust, and a large gold chain, with which they were going to Gua- quil to purchase salt and brandy. On the 9th, in the evening, a council of all the officers, except Captain Rogers, who was indisposed, was held on board the Duchess, wherein, after the prisoners had been examined, it was resolved, from the accounts given of its situation and advantages, to steer for the Island of Malaga, where they designed to leave their ships in a safe road, and then row up the river in their boats, till enabled to surprise some canoes, with which they might more effectually stem the tides of the river. In these canoes they were to proceed to the golden mines of Barbacore, or Juan, where they expected to find a considerable booty, the Spaniards in that neighbourhood having no kind of intelligence that an enemy was so near. As Captain Rogers had previously agreed to yield his assent to what- ever should be determined on, they made sail for Malaga about tvyelve o'clock the same night ; but when acquainted with the result of their deliberations, he determined to discourse with Mr. Morel, and some other of the prisoners, of whose knowledge respecting the place of their destination he was well assured. These informed him, that whoerel advised the council to those measures now intended to be pursued, eithei WOODES ROGERS. 121 designed to rum them, or were totally unacquainted with the affair ; for the Island of Malaga was not only unfrequented and barren, but the road extremely narrow and fall of shoals ; that if the ships got over, which could only be affected at spring tides, there was the utmost danger of their being run ashore. They likewise said, the banks of the river all the way up to St. Juan were well inhabited by a race of people strongly attached to the Spaniards, who would take all possible measures to annoy an enemy, }>articularly by their poisoned arrows, from the covert of the woods ; and that the channel was so narrow, that by felling trees across, they might effectually prevent the retreat of invaders, and cut them to pieces. The captain was so strongly affected with this information, and saw the danger to which they were about to expose themselves in so clear a light, that he immediately sent for Captains Courtney and Cook, and acquainting them with what he had heard, they immediately changed their course, in order to return to Gorgona, where it was determined to careen and fit up the Havre de Grace as a twenty gun ship, to be commanded by Captain Cook, and manned out of the Duke and Duch- ess, to act as a third consort. Coming to an anchor on the 13th of June, near the shore of Gorgona, in forty fathoms water, and having held a committee, the Duchess was appointed to careen, and the Duke to lie on guard, lest they should be surprised by an enemy. The latter was also careened as soon as the former was turned out, so that in about a fortnight they were again in prime order for sailing, to the great asto- nishment of the Spaniards, who declared that the same operation on one of the king's ships, at Lima, usually took up six weeks, though they had all kinds of necessaries, and artificers ready to give their assistance. The business which chiefly engaged them from the 29th of June to the 9th of July, was fitting out the Havre de Grace, which being com- pletely finished, they gave her the name of the Marquis. A good enter- tainment being provided, they saluted each of the other ships with three huzzas from on board her, distributed liquor amono- the company, drank the healths of her majesty and their owners, and to their own joint suc- cess. There were sent on board her two of the main-deck guns of the Duke and two of the Duchess, which, with four taken at Guaquil, and twelve already in her, made twenty good ones, the carriages all new, or so well repaired as to be as strong and good as if mounted in England. Her compliment of men was sixty-one, besides twenty negroes ; the captain, officers, and men, were to be allowed the same wages as those in the other ships. The next thing of importance appeared to be getting rid of the prisoners, who began to be a great burthen, and were of no use. In a committee held on the 9th, it was agreed that Captain Dover, Mr. Fry, and Mr. Stratton, with forty-tive sailors under their command, should have the care of transporting them to the continent, which was immediately put in practice. The two Morels, Don Antonio, and Don Juan Cardosa, were dismissed among the rest, and at their departure appeared to be highly satisfied with the treatment they had met with ; and the latter, in particular, was very ready to acknowledge this, as he had been once very ill used by a Jamaica privateer, which he had fallen in with not far from Porto Bello. On the 18th, a negro, who had been bit by a speckled snake, died in less than twelve hours, notwithstanding the utmost exertion of the sur- geon's skill to save his life. There are great abundance of these snaket on Gorgona, some of which are three or four vards long, and as thick %• U l22 Voyages round the world. a man's leg. They are of an amphibious nature ; and one having on th« same day conveyed himself on board the ship, by the help of the cable, was killed upon the forecastle by the men. On the 20th and 21st, two canoes came on board to trade, bringing with them money, limes, fowls, and other provisions. Next day five of the negroes belonging to the ship hid themselves in the woods, with a Tiew of deserting to the Spaniards as soon as their masters had left the station ; but, onK being retaken the same day, was severely punished ; and three more being forced by hunger to quit their asylum, were taken two days afterward. On the 27th the two Morels came on board again, with what money they could raise, and told the captains, the country being much alarmed, it was with great difficulty they had obtained leave to come to them ; that the Gove>rnor of Barbacore, with 200 men, was at the waterside to prevent trading, and to hinder their landing ; and all the coast lined with men assembled for the same purpose. A committee was held on board the Duke, in which it was agreed to distribuie rewards to those who had most distinguished themselves: when Mr. James Straiton was allowed forty rupees : William Davis and Der- rick Derrickson had twenty rupees each, (a rupee is about the value of half a crown ;) the boat's crew that engaged the Marquis, when taken, hail two bales of baize, one of serges, and one of linen, to be sold by ihem when and where they should think proper ; and to each of the men who went up the river beyonvith a sharp taper flint. The women, whose fec^tures are rather disa- 11* 126 VOYAGES ROUKD THK WORLD. greesble, are employed in miking fishing lines, or in gathering^ grain, whicli ihey grind upon a stone. Tiiey were willing to assist the English in filling water, and would supply them with whatever they could get: they were a very honest people, and would not take the least thing with out permission. In the Bay of Puerto Seguro there are great numbers of albacores, mullets, dolphins, bream, and other fish, which the natives are extremely expert at striking with wooden insirurneiits from their floats, which are made of five pieces of wood, and are moved with short puddles. From hese floats they would often leap, and strike the fish when near the bottom of the water. They also dive and fetch up pearl oysters from the rocks. Some of the sailors informed Ca[)tain Rogers they saw one of them dive with instruments, and while he was under water, put up his striker with a fish upon the point of it, which was taken off by ano- ther, who attended his mot'ons on a bark-log. This the captain was the rather induced to believe, because he himself had thrown some rusty knives overboard on purpose to try the skill of these excellent divers ; and they seldom missed catching the knife before it was more than three or four fathoms under water. By this time they all began to despair of taking the Manilla ship, it being a month beyond her usual time of passing that way ; till, on the 2Ist of December, about nine in the morning, the man at the mast-head cried out he saw a sail, at the distance of seven leagues ; but, as they had little wind, did not cojne up with her till the next day, when Captain Rogers, having no spirituous liquors on board, ordered a large kettle of chocolate to be made for the ship's company, and, after prayers, began the engagement. The Duchess being considerably to leeward, the ene- my fired her stern-chase first, which the Duke returned with her fore- chase ; and then getting close on board her, gave her several broadsides, at the same time plying their small arms very briskly, which the Spa- niards for a while returned, and then struck her colours just as the Duchess had come up, and fired five guns and a volley of small shot. They then sent the pinnace on board the enemy, and brought the captain, with the officers, away ; having e.^amined them, found that a larger ship had come out of Manilla at the same time, but she being a better sailer, had parted company three months before. The Spaniards in this en- gagement lost nine men, and had several wounded. On the part of the English, one man was wounded, besides Captain Rogers, who received a shot through the left cheek, which carried away a great part of his up- per jaw and several of his teeth, some of which dropped on the deck where he fel.. This prize was called Nuestra Senora de la Incarnation, commanded by Sir John Pichberty, a gallant Frenchman ; and the pri- soners said that the cargo in India amounted to 2,000,000 of dollars, she carried 193 men, and mounted twenty guns. On Christmas day the Duches sand Marquis went out of the harbour to cruise for the great Manilla ship ; and on the same day two sentinels were posted on the top of a hill, from whence tbey had a good view of the sea, with instructions that if they saw three sail of ships in the off- ing, they should wave their colours three times. On the 26th, in the afternoon, the sentries made three wafts, on which they instantly put all the prisoners, amounting to 170, on board the bark, without arms, rudder, sails, or a boat ; and leaving twenty-two hands to guard them, Captain Rogers, who was still in a very weak condition, got under sail at seven in the evening, and continued the chase all night and next day ; but h» WOODES ROGERS. 127 vJng little wind, did not come up with them till the day afti-r ; and, as the other ships had engaired the eneinv several tiinps in the mierun, the Marquis was by this time disabled. Hf, however, instantly eni/aged, and the attack was frequently renewed, till a chest of arms and cartou^h box took fire, and all the three ships were damaged : when it was determined, considering the number of the enemy's men and the force of the ship, to pursue her no farther. In this bloody 'engagement the English lust many of their men, and Captain Rogers was asjain wounded, having the heel-bone of his left foot taken off by a splinter. Thus ended the fruit- less attempt on this large ship; after which they returned to the harbour of Puerto Seguro, spending some days in refitting and taxing in wood and water. For some time past, they had been at short allowance of bread, but had the happiness to find such a quantity on board the Manilla ship, which they had taken, as, with their former stock, they hoped would serve them in the long run which they intended to take across the South Sea. On the 1st of .lanuary, the hark, with Captain Pichberty, the hos- tages, s were brought on board dressed in the island fashion, that is, only half done, their entrails taken out and herbs stuffed in them along with hot stones, which is the common mode of cookery ; a present of a live hog also came from a chief On the 23d the ship was warped into the bay about a stone's throw from the shore, and in front of a stream of fresh water, wliich her guns commanded. The inhabitants now flocked from all quarters of the island, in order to traffic, and among them numbers of women, which seemed more a proof of confidence and peace than they had yet received ; about .500 men, armed with clubs, assembled near an open house or shed, which was the king's, or Areki's, as he is called ; in the evening a present came from him with an invitation on shore, which was declined without hostages. This being complied with, si.x islanders came ofT, and three oflScers went on shore, who were received with due honours by the as- sembled chiefs, who in return received presents from Claesz, the chief of the party, whose shirt being a great object of admiration and desire for its whiteness, was given along with the rest to the Areki. They returned four hogs, and directed every attention and assistance to be paid to the LE MAIRE AND SCHOUTEN. 159 watering party. He desired a great gnn to be fired, but, along with all his subjects, flpd, on hearing it, to the woods, though he soon returned ; a sword was at first stolen by a native, but the cul[)nt was pursued, taken, and received a severe beating from the Areki's officers, after which, nothing more was stolen during their stay. The hostages were soon released on both sides, and an unreserved intercovirse established. On the 26th the president proceeded on shore in state, with presents for the king, who received him with great coriiialiiy, and taking from his own and his son's heads, caps, or head-dresses of feathers, put them on those of the two chief merchants. Ne.xt evening the seamen remained on shore, full of confidence in their new acquaintance, singing and dancing by the light of the moon to the sound of instruments, m vvhich they were joined by the natives ; while, to add to the amusements of tlie evening, two of the Dutch went through a mock sword-fight to the great admiration of the natives. 28th, the chief of the neighbouring inland visited the Areki of this with due ceremony ; the president a!?o went on shore in the afternoon to a grand feast given to the strangers. Next day he took a walk inland, attended by a son and brother of the Areki as safeguards ; and having finished watering, it was proclaimed to the islanders that they would depart in two days, which news seemed not displeasing from the provisions consumed and the power they hud dis- played. The Areki himself, attended by sixteen of his principal subjects, came on board, a man of good appearance and about si.xty years of age ; he brought several presents, and was received with all due honours by the president, who seated him on the gayest cushions, and who afterward accompanied him on shore, strolling through the native habitations where the Seamen were busy dancing with the islanders of both sexes. The 30th the chief of the other island paid a more formal visit than formerly, being accompanied by a fleet of canoes and a multitude of both sexes ; the meeting was extremely ceremonious between the Arekis, and the Dutch, who were of the party, could not conceive where these people could have learned their taste for so much form and etiquette. Sixteen hogs were roasted on this occasion, and a large quantity of yams and other vegetables dressed to do honour to it, of which at least 900 persons partook. Eaily in the morning of the 3Ist prepared for sailing, when the two Arekis, attended by their principal people, came on board, wearing green leaves of the cocoa nut round their necks ; provisions were supplied in abundance, and Le Maire, after treating the chiefs with wine, accompa- nied them on shore. At noon put to sea. These were named the Home islands, and the anchorage Eendracht Bay. Le Maire thought they might be the Saloman islands of Mendana. The bay lies in 14 de- grees 56 minutes south. 20th June, steering to the northward, the latitude was 4 degrees 50 minutes south, when in the evening land was seen to the southward ; next morning found it a cluster of small low islands, connected by reefs and sand-banks. Two canoes came off, one with six, the other with four men, all armed with bows and arrows, the first islanders they had seen with these weapons during the voyage ; presents were made them, but they had nothing to give in return, and would not venture on board. Toward evening, on the 22d, saw a group of twelve or thirteen low islands, very small in extept, which were named Marquen. Two days afterward three more were discerned, low and full of green trees, two ol 160 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. them two leagues loner each, but the third very small ; these were named the Green islands, "^rhe same day, in the evening, a high island waa observed before them, which was called Jan's Island. 25th, saw very high land, supposed to be the Cape of New Guinea, and by noon were near enough to discover people and habitations ; the boat tried to sound, but was attacked by canoes till compelled to fire in their defence ; at night anchored, and were well watched by the natives. The 26ih, eight pioas came off with above 40 men, armed with clubs, slings, and wooden spears or swords, who, notwithstanding friendly signs, commenced an attack, and were answered with cannon and musketry, which caused four canoes to be deserted, and the rest made off. Ten or twelve were killed by this unnecessary severity, and three made pri- soners, who vyere carried to the shore to be exchanged for provisions, but not being of sufficient consequence to be ransomed in this way, were afterward liberated gratuitously. On the morning of the 30th were near a bay supposed to be in IN'ew Guinea, from some island near which several canoes came off, embellished with rude paintings and carved images ; the people had tlat noses, thick lips, and wide mouths, with the odour observed in negroes. Next day, between the main and a long island, they were visited by several of the people seen the day before, in twenty-five eanoes, who, instead of behaving peaceably, commenced a hostile attack and were immediately repulsed, several of them beiiig killed, and one taken pri- soner. July 6ih, saw during these three or four days past a variety of small islands, and a burning isle close to Papua, or New Guinea, from which many canoes came off ; observed the water to be discoloured with many limbs and branches of trees floating about, which seemed as if a large river was not far oflf; were visited on the 8th by the Papuans, or natives, every one of whom was remarked to have some defect in body ; they had black, short, curled hair, wearing rings in their noses, and proved as active, as curious, and as mischievous as monkeys. Anchored next day in a bay, on the shores of which were two villages well inhabited, the women and children flocking to look at the ship, but they would not part with their provisions. Weighed again, and coasted three leagues from the shore, passing several islands. On the 15th were in latitude I degree 56 minutes south, and saw two islands covered with cocoa nut tree.s, well inhabited, when they anchored. Some canoes approached, and a native prepared to shoot an arrow on board, when a musket was fired to prevent him ; after which the patron proceeded with two boats, well armed, to obtain cocoa nuts, but the natives disputed the beach, till a gun from the ship dispersed them. From the woods, how- ever, the Dutch were again attacked, and after a sharp struggle, com- pelled to retreat, with fifteen men wounded, among whom was Adricu Claesz, who had an arrow through his hand. From the smaller island the boats were more successful, where a plan- tation of cocoa nut trees was stripped, and some huts burned, on which the people became more peaceable, bringing off refreshments, and receiv- ing presents in return. July the 23d, passed several small islands, the people of which had tawny complexions and long curling hair, differing a good deal from the Papoas, or Papuans. August the 5th, came to the Isle of Goley, subject to the King of Tidore, after being much embar- rassed for many davs by islands, shoals, and unknown tracks, from which they with difficulty got clear. Sailed again next day ; and, after being much delayed by calms, met, September the 17tb, with a ship of their JACOB l'heremite. 151 own country, one of Admiral Spilbergen's fleet, anchoring the same day at the Island of Ternate, or Terrenate. They were kindly received by the people in power : the Eendracht had not lost one of her crew in this long navigation ; and they had discovered a new passage to the South Sea ; yet these merits did not avail them, for on the arrival of the ship at Jacatra, the. present Batavia, in the Island of Java, she was seized and condemned, on a supposed infringement of the rights of the Dutch East India Company, the officers and crew being put on board other ships to be conveyed to Europe. On the 31st of December, during the passage home, died the presi- dent, Jacob Le Maire, a victim to the unworthy treatment he had re- ceived, a worthy man, and a prudent and skilful navigator ; and on the 1st of July, 1617, his companions arrived in Holland, having been absent two years and seventeen days. ADMIRAL JACOB L'HEREMITE.— 1623-26. In the beginning of the year 1623 a fleet was equipped, by order of the States-general and Prince Maurice of Nassau, against the Spanish settlements in Peru. This armament consisted of eleven sail of ship- ping, under the orders of Admiral Jacob L'Heremite, an officer who had served the Dutch India Company many years with great reputation A complaint which afflicted him at the most critical period of the expedi- tion, and finally terminated his life before he reached Europe, has caused this voyage often to be called that of the Nassau fleet, from Prince Mau- rice of Nassau, a principal promoter of the design. The admiral's ship, named the Amsterdam, mounted forty-two guns, with 237 men ; that of the vice-admiral was nearly of equal force, and some of the others little inferior ; the whole number of guns was 294 ; of men 1637, of whom 600 were regular soldiers, with practical pilots and scientific mathematicians, altogether the greatest force ever sent into the South Sea. It quitted Goree April the 29th, 1623, under orders to make the pas- Kage by the Strait of Le Maire. May the 31st, fell in with a fleet of Barbary corsairs, near Cape St. Vincent, from which several Hollanders, detained prisoners, were taken and distributed in the fleet. June the 4th, captured four Spanish vessels from Pernambuco, laden with sugar ; two of these and one of the armament being sent to Holland from their indif- ferent sailing. July the 5th, watered at the Cape de Verde islands ; and, on the 1 1th of August, anchored at Sierra Leone, having, from the con- tinual rains, a sickly crew. Here presents were obliged to be given to the chiefs before communication was permitted with the shore ; a species of nuts eaten by some of the crew had nearly proved fatal, but for the prompt administration of medicines to counteract their deleterious effects ; forty-two men also perished from dysentery, brought on from eating too many limes, which seamen on a voyage are naturally fond of, though they, as well as other fruits and vegetables, often bring on this complaint if used too freely at first. The admiral was also taken ill. Two ships grounded on a bank near Cape Lopez Gonsalvo, but were soon got oflT. During the passage to the Isle of Annabon, complaint was made against Mr. Jacob Begeer, the principal surgeon of the ship Mauritius, that several of his patients, soon after taking the medicines he had pre- scribed for them, h.'id died in a manner which had given cause to suspect 14*^ 163 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. there was somelhing extraordinary in his practice. The vice and rear- admirals were jointly commissioned to inquire into the truth of this com- plaint. The unhappy surgeon answered the charge with protestations of innocence ; but, as the narrative of the voyage says, there were half proofs against him, torture was applied to make him confess, notwith- standing which he persisted in denial, telling the commissioners they might do what they pleased with him. This being regarded as insensi- biliiy, created a suspicion that he had a protecting charm ; and, on being searched, the skin and tongue of a serpent were found upon him, which to them seemed to leave no doubt of the fact, and he was remanded to confinement. Again he was brought before the commissioners, and being let out of irons for this purpose, immediately jumped overboard, but was followed by two men, who supported him in the water till a boat picked them up. After much resolute denial, the poor man's constancy was overpowered by their cruelties, and he was cocnpelled to confess that he had caused seven men to die because the care of them gave him too much trouble ; also, that he had tried to enter in a compact with the devil, whose presence and protection he had invoked, but this cunning per- sonage it seems would not ajjpear. On this foundation, the wretched man was beheaded on board his ship, on the 18th of October, an instance of superstition, barbarity, and folly, not exceeded by any of the savages of the countries they meant to visit. On the 29lh of October made the Isle of Annabon, subject to the Por- tuguese, and abounding in fruits ; a compact of amity between the Dutch and the governor was agreed upon, the former to procure refreshments, and the latter to be permitted to remain unmolested ; oxen, hogs, goats, poultry, and other provisions, were consequently procured in abundance. The island lies 10 degrees 20 minutes south, is six leagues in circuit, with a tolerable anchorage for ships ; grows some cotton, and is said to have civet cats in the mountains ; 200,000 oranges were sent on board ; and water is plentiful, but difficult to be got at, on account of the surf on the beach, which is often fatal to boats. On the lith of November sailed, and advancing ninety leagues to the west-south-west, found the south-east trade wind, and then stood for the coast of Brazil ; near which, on the 19th and 20th of January, 1624, ob- sorved the sea discoloured with an infinite number of small shrimps. On the 2Sth one of the prize barks sej)arating from the fleet, and being unable to rejoin, bent her way homeward. Three days afterward the fleet made Cape de Penas, on Terra del Fuego, about mid-way between the Canal de San Sebastian and Cape St. Ines. On the 2d of February entered Strait Le Maire, which they would not have suspected if the pilot of the Eendracht had not recognised the high mountains on the western side ; the marks for its entrance are high, broken, and mountainous land on the eastern side, while on the other, a western shore, are seen several round hills close to the sea-side. Two of the ships anchored in a bay of Terra del Fuego, trafficking with the natives for seal skins, and caught also i large quantity of shell and other fish ; this place, after the rear-admiral, was named Verschoor Bay. Another of the ships anchored in a very tolerable harbour, which was called Valentine's Bay. On the 14th of February, having passed through the strait several days, observed the compasses to differ much from each other ; latitude 56 degrees 20 minutes south, Cape Horn bearing west seven leagues distant. Being afraid of falling to leeward of this point, the admiral r^q JACOB l'heremite, 163 for a bay in Terra del Fuego, afterward named Nassau Bay, where the fleet anchored ; here was found plenty of water, but no fish, except shell-fish ; one of the coves of this bay was named Schapenham Bay, after the vice-admiral. On the 24:th, a storm having forced the boats off to the ships, leaving nineteen men behind unprovided with arms, seventeen were found killed by the natives on their return, the other two having escaped by conceal- ment ; no quarrel, it seems, had taken place, but being defenceless, this was a sufficient reason for the s ivages. The vice-admiral being ordered to examine the coast, reported that the whole of Terra del Fuego is di- vided into many islands, and that to pass into the South Sea it is not necessary to double Cape Horn, for that on every side there were open- ings, bays, and gulfs, running into the land as far as the eye could dis- tinguish. The natives are said by these voyagers to be as white as Europeans whien young, which they saw in several infants, but that the constant use of oil and dirt, with exposure, changes the natural colour in adults. Most of them paint their bodies with a species of red ochre, some with white ; they are well proportioned, about the stature of the whites, have long, thick, black hair, and teeth filed as sharp as the blade of a knife. The men were entirely without clothing ; the women with a slight cover- ing round the waist, and necklaces of shells ; they also were painted, like the men. Their huts were formed of trees, of a circular form, diminishing at top to a point, with an opening for the smoke. They had Imes, hooks, and harpoons for fishing, all neatly made ; and they never were seen abroad without their arms. They possessed boats made from the bark of large trees, and very dexterously curved, something like Venetian gondolas, and from ten to sixteen feet long ; no religion or government seems to exist among them, and they eat everything raw. On the 27th of February quitted Nassau Bay, the wind westerly, Juan Fernandez being appointed the rendezvous in case of separation. On the 8th of March were in 61 degrees south ; three of the ships straggled from the fleet, and on the 28th the admiral saw the coast of Chili ; April the 6th, he anchored at Juan Fernandez, where three soldiers and three gunners from the vice-admiral's ship chose to remain in preference to going to sea. On the 3d of May had sight of the coast of Peru, and on the 8th, nearly abreast of Callao, took a small bark with eleven men ; from whom the admiral heard that the treasure fleet, consisting of five ships richly laden, had sailed from Callao for Panama. The Spanish admiral, in a ship of 800 tons and forty-two guns, with two smaller vessels of war, were still in the former port, besides a great number of merchant vessels ; to protect which, there were not more than 300 soldiers, while the na- tives and negroes were inclined to rise ag.iinst their masters. Upon this, a council of war was held, whether to |)ursue the galleons or attack Cal- lao ; the latter was resolved upon, the command now devolving on the vice-admiral, Schapenham, in consequence of the extreme ill health of L'Heremite. On the 9th the troops embarked in the boats, but, on account of the surf and the Spaniards on the beach, did not [lersist in landing; during the two following days the commander seemed at a loss what to do ; in the night of the 12th an attack was made on the merclia.nt vessels, about ftfty in number, when they wire set on fire, instead of being brought oif, 164 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. which might have heen easily accomplished ; but all their measures now indicated^neither spirit nor'perseverance, and farther operations were confined merely to predatory excursions, instead of attempting the town and fleet at once. On the 2d of June the admiral, L'Heremite, died, a man of skill and courage, to whom no part of the misconduct or ill success of his fleet was owing. Two attempts were made upon a ship, the Recargo, which had on board some of the treasure not carried away in the fleet, but with some want of success attending all their other enterprises. Some of the Spanish prisoners applied for an e.xchange, but tlie governor replied, that they had only powder and ball at the service of the Hollanders, an an- swer which proved fatal to his unfortunate countrymen ; for, immediately on receiving it, those detained in the Dutch fleet, twenty-one in number, were hanged at the yard-arm of the Amsterdam, a most barbarous and unjustifiable proceeding, for which no apology ever was or could be of- fered. Schapenham was now ashamed of the insignificant part he was acting with so large a force, but did not appear to know what to do. At one time it was determined to proceed against Chili, for which various prepa- rations were made. August the 5ih, Guaquil was captured by two ships under Verschoor, the rear-admiral, who set it on fire ; 100 Spaniards being killed in its defence, and seventeen prisoners taken, who were barbarously thrown into the sea, under the pretence of treachery. On the 14th left the anchorage off Callao, where no water could be procured, and proceeded twenty miles to the southward, where the landing being good, and their force unbroken, an easy descent and march to the city was practicable. This, however, was neglected. A second attempt was made upon Guaquil without any apparent object, and proved extremely disastrous, twenty-eight men being killed in a shameful retreat, though the attacking force was double that formerly successful. A resolution was now taken to go to Acapulco, to wait for the galleon ; here Schipenham attempted to negotiate with the governor, who, how- ever, would not listen to him ; and though the face of the former was sufficient to procure anything on the coast for the supply of his fleet, it was not tried, as if his incapacity should be plainly discernible in every part of his command. November the 29th, after various contradictory determinations, the fleet finally quitted this coast for the East Indies; thus cheaply freeing the Spaniards from the formidable force which threa- tened their possessions in Peru, and which, skilfully and courageously applied, might have gone far to dispossess them of it. In fifty-seven days the fleet made Guaham, or Guam, one of the La- drones, when 150 canoes came otT to barter yams and cocoa nuts for such trinkets and metal implements as the voyagers had to spare ; for the scurvy had made great ravages, and some ships were so weak as scarcely to be able to work their sails. February the 11th, sailed for the Moluccas, and four days after saw land, high, and seemingly well in- inhabited and cultivated ; several canoes attempted to follow them, but in vain ; the people resembled the Ladrone islanders. March the 4th, anchored at the Island of Terrenate. Here the voyage of the Nassau fleet may be said to have terminated, the ships having separated upon difterent services in the East Indies. In October Schapenham embarked, being in a bad state of health, on board the Eendracht, at Batavia, but died early in November. The ope- rations of his fleet were, therefore, of no importance in any point of viewi JACOB ROGGEWEIN. 105 the military transactions being contemptible, and the discoveries being confined to the knowledge of Nassau Bay, and a more accurate idea of the nature of the southern portion of Terra del Fuego. ADMIRAL JACOB ROGGEWEIN.— 1721-23. Jacob Roggewein, bred originally to the law, had been to tlie East Indies as counsellor in a court of judicature, but returning home with a good fortune, presented a memorial to the Dutch West India Company to proceed in search of southern unknown binds, a project which his father had adopted fifty years before, though without meeting the desired patronage. His son was now more successful, the company adopting his plan, and appointing him admiral. On the 21st of August, 1721, he departed from the Texel, in the Eagle, carrying thirty-six guns and ill men; with the Tienhoven, twenty-eight guns and 110 men, and the African galley, of fourteen guns and sixty men. Near the Canary islands they were attacked by a fleet of pirates, who were beaten off, though with the loss of several men. At Brazil nine men deserted ; after quitting it, they looked in vain for Hawkins' Maiden Land,* but pretend to have found an island 200 leagues in circuit, and distant from the American coast about 200 leagues. Here they separated in a storm from the Tienhoven. The other ships passed through Strait Le Maire, and, March the 10th, anchored at the Isle of Mocha, where there were no other inhabitants than dogs and horses ; from this they made Juan Fernandez, and met with the Tienhoven, who had passed through the Strait of Magellan, and reached the present anchorage only one day before them. Here they procured provisions from the land, as well as the usual abundant supply of fish. Quitting this island, saw, on the 6th of April, an island, which, being the anniversary of the Resurrection, was named Easter Island ; next day it seemed well inhabited, and a native came off to look at the ships from a distance, but, in endeavouring to return, was intercepted by the boats and brought on board. He was of robust make, of a brown complexion, and quite naked ; his ears remarkably long, supposed to be from the weight of ear-rings. Presents of various descriptions were made him, all which were hung round his neck, and made perfectly merry with the sailors, calling out as he returned on shore, 0-dorroga 0-dorroga, sup- posed to be addressed to some large idols observed upon the coast. On the 9th the natives were observed to prostrate themselves toward the sun, and lighting fires before their idols ; several came to the ships, among whom was their first visiter, and another man who seemed quite white, and from his serious deportm.cnt was believed to be one of their priests. Next day the admiral landed, with 150 men armed, as if for an invasion. The natives met them on the beach, and, though unarmed, seemed to dispute their right to disembark, by pushing against those who landed and touching their arms, when a volley of musketry, fired among the crowd, killed several and put the rest to flight, a severity not at all required by the occasion. The consternation of these poor people was extrems, making the most doleful lamentations over the dead. Men, women, and children then came, * It is just announced in the newspapers, (May 1820,) that this island, though never seen since that time, has lately been observed by the ship Wil« Uam, from Monte- Video, bound to Chili. 166 \-OYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. carry niissed him there, at the Island of Macao, on the coast of China. They made no doubt that they should soon arrive at their intended station, as they expected to fall in with the regular trade wind ; but, to their great mortification, were harassed with contrary winds, heavy rains, or dead cahns for near a month, and began to despair of intercepting the Manilla ship ; but at length their spirits were somewhat revived by a favourable change in. the wind. The commodore sent his barge, on the 12th of February, in search of u'^u'^^""'^ of Acapulco, and to discover whether the galleon was arrived, which returned on the 19th, with the ne\vs that they had discovered thf 6eoR6E AnsoJ:. 177 harbour, and that, having got within the island that lies at the mouth of it, they were doubtful how to proceed ; hut, while lying upon their oars, ignorant that they were then at the very place sought for, they discerned a light near the surface of the water ; on which, plying their paddles, and moving as silently as possible in the direction, they found it to be a fishing canoe, which they surprised, with three negroes on board. From these men the commodore learned that the galleon arrived at Acapulco on the 9th of January, old stile ; that she had delivered her cargo, was taking in water and provisions, in order to return, and that the viceroy of Mexico had by proclamation fixed her departure from Acapulco on the 14th of March, new stile. This news gave them great joy, as they had no doubt but she must certainly fall into their hands. On the 1st of March, the time for her departure drawing nigh, the commodore disposed his five ships in such a manner, that they took up a compass of at least twenty-four leagues, within which nothing could pass without its being known by the whole squadron : the vessels being so judiciously ranged, that by signals information could be easily and speedily given of what pussed in any part of the line. From this time to the 23d they were in hopes of her, satisfied that she had not quitted the harbour ; but, by this time, the whole fleet beginning to be in want of water, it was agreed to proceed to Chequetan to supply themselves : and lest the gal- leon, taking advantage of their absence, might slip out to sea, Mr. Hughes, lieutenant of the Trial's prize, was ordered to cruise off the port of Aca- pulco for twenty-four days, that if she should set sail, they might be speedily informed of it. On the 1st of April they were advanced so far toward Chequetan that the commodore sent out two boats to discover the watering ))lace, which being gone several days, their water ran so short, that if they had not met with a daily supply of turtle, which prevented their being confined only to salt provisions, they must have suffered very considerably in so warm a climate. The harbour lies in 17 degrees 36 minutes north lati- tude, and is about thirty leagues to the westward of Acapulco ; from which last place there is a bank of sand extending eighteen leagues to the westward, against which the sea breaks so violently, that it is impossible to land with boats on any part, yet the ground is so clean, that during the fair season ships may anchor in great safety, at the dis- tance of a mile or two from the shore. As the country appeared to be well inhabited, the commodore had hopes to have easily procured some fresh provisions, and other refreshments, of which they were in want ; and, therefore, on the morning after his coming to an anchor, despatched a company of forty men, well armed, into the country, to try if they could discover any town or village, and settle a correspondence with the inhabi- tants. These men having proceeded about five miles from the harbour, found two roads, leading east and west ; choosing the latter, they marched along a beaten track, which led them into a large plain, on one side of which they saw a sentinel on horseback, with a pistol in his hand ; but the horse starting at the glittering of their arms, turned suddenly round and ran away at a great rate ; the man being very nigh unhorsed, and dropping his hat and pistol on the ground. The sailors in vain pursued to discover the place of his retreat, till quite wearied out, and finding no water to quench their thirst, returned. As it now appeared they had not more hands than were necessary to man a fourth-rate man-of-war, it was resolved to scuttle and destroy the Trial's prize, the Carmelo, and the Carmin, and to divide their crews and the richest part of their car- 178 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. goes between the Centurion and Gloucester, which was done accordingly on the iTiU of April ; and next morning the Centurion and Gloucester weighed anchor, leaving behind a letter corked up in a bottle, and placed in a canoe, wliich was fixed to a grapnel in the middle of the harbour, directed to Mr. Hughes, and acquainting him that the commodore was returned to his siation olf Acapuico ; that he intended to quit it in a few days, and return to tlie rest of his squadron, which continued cruising to the souihward. These last words were inserted to deceive the Spaniards, in case the canoe should fall mto their hands, as afterward happened. On Sunday, the 2il of May, they were advanced within three leagues of Acapulco, and finding nmhing of the cutter, Mr. Anson took it for granted that it was taken and carried into the port ; and, therefore, wrote a polite letter lo the governor, requesting him to deliver up Mr. Hughes and his people ; and in return pron.ised to release all the Spanish prisoners now in his hands, some of whom were people of figure While wailing for an answer to this letter, the sentinel from the mast- head called out, that he saw a boat under sail, at a considerable distance to the south-east ; and on their approach they found, to their great joy, it was their own. Quittinij now the coast of America, they stood for China, the 6th of May, 1742, and stood over to the south-west, with a view of meeting with a north-east trade wind, which the accounts of former writers had taught then^to expect at the distance of seventy or eighty leagues from the land. The Gloucester, which was become very bad, was cleared of everything by the 15th of August, and then set on fire, being no longer fit for any purpose ; the flames gaining upon her gradually, and her guns going off one by one, as the flames reached them, till at length, about six in the morning, she blew up. On the 23d of August, at daybreak, they had the pleasure of discover- ing two islands to the westward, and the ne.Kl morning a third ; on which their boat was despatched to one of them, which returned in the evening. with an account that they could find no anchoring ground. On the 26th lost sight of Annatacan, but next morning discovered three other islands, which were afterward found to be Savpan, Tinian, aiM Aiguigan, and iminediately steering toward the middlemost of the three, which was Tinian, hoisted Spanish colours, with a red flag at the fore-top- mast head, in hope that, by giving iheir ship the appearance of the Manilla galleon, they might decoy some of the inhabitants on board. A Spaniard who came off, being immediately examined, said, that the island was uninhabited, notwithstanding which, it wanted but few of the accommoda- tions that could be expected in the most cultivated country ; that the air was good, and there was plenty of excellent water ; that the woods afforded sweet and sour oranges, limes, lemons, and cocoa nuts in great abund.ince, besides a fruit peculiar to these islands, which served instead of bread ; and that hogs, poultry, and black cattle ran wild in prodigious numbers ; that the Spaniards at Guam made use of it as a store for supplying the garrison, of which he was a sergeant, and was now sent thither with twenty-two Indians to jerk beef, which he was to load for Guam on board a bark of fifteen tons, which was then at anchor near the shore. Next morning a party of men, well armed, were sent on shore to secure the landing place, which was done without difficulty, as the Indians were fled into the woods. They found many huts, which saved them the trouble of erecting tents ; and the largest of these, being twenty feet long and OEORGE ANSON. 179 fifteen broad, was immediately fitted up as an hospital, to which they removed the sick, amounting to 128. Tinian lies in 15 degrees 8 minutes north latitude, about twelve mile long and six broam its appea- rance, to sail round the island ; while he was doing which, he again sent out boats to sound ; on which the natives made a most hideous outcry, took up and balanced large stones in their hands, and pointed to their epears. Tne sailors, on ttie contrary, made every possible sign of friend- ship, throwing bread and other things on shore ; which they would not touch, but retired to the woods, dragging their canoes after them. The boats having reported that no anchorage could be found, the com- modore proceeded to the other island, and on the nt-xt morning brought- to at threequaiters of a mile from the shore. Sevcrel other isla.ids were now seen, covered with the cocoa nut tree. The natives again ran to the beach, armed with clubs and spears, using threatening gestures. Tlie 188 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. commodore fired a cannon-shot over their heads, on which they retreated to the woods. The boats having been again seni out, returned with an account that no landing place couki be found ; on which Mr. Byron named this paradise in appearance the Islaxds of Disappointment. Quitting these on the 8lh of June, they discovered an island on tho day following, low, and covered with various kinds of trees, among which was the cocoa nut, and surrounded with a rock of red coral. The in- habitants on the coast having made large fires, as supposed to alarm the more inland natives, they ran along the shore in multitudes, armed like thoie of the Islands of Disappointment. The vessels brought-to at a small inlet opening into a like of salt water, which appeared more than two leagues wide. At this place was a little town, under the shade of a grove of cocoa nut trees. The ships advancing to the mouth of the inlet, some hundreds of the natives, headed by a kind of officer, who carried a pole, on which was fastened a piece of mat, ranged themselves up to the waists in water, making a hideous noise, till they were joined by a number of large canoes which came down the lake. At this time two boats were out in search of soundings, and the crews of them ma- king every possible sign of friendship, some of the canoes drew toward them, but with a view to haul the boats on shore : several of the natives leaping from the rocks, swam to the boats ; and one of them sprang into the Tamar's boat, snatched up a seaman's jacket, and instantly dived from the boat to the shore : another laid violent hands on a hat, but lost his prize through his ignorance, as he pulled it downward instead of lifting it from the head. They now sailed westward, and soon discovered another island, distant four leagues. The natives pursued them in two large double canoes, in each of which were about thirty armed men. At this time the boats were at a considerable way to leeward of the ships, and were chased by the canocj ; on which, the commodore making a signal, the boats turned toward the Indians, who instantly pulled down their sails, and rowed away with great rapidity. As no refreshments could be obtained, owing to the violence of tho surf, the commodore returned to his former station at the inlet, and again sent the boats in search of an anchoring place. A number of the Indians were on the spot where he had left them, and were loading some large canoes, most probably to attack the boats ; on which a shot was fired over their heads, and they instantly ran away and secreted them- selves. The boats returned in the evening, with a few cocoa nuts ; and m the morning were sent out again, with all the invalids, who were able to go in them. The commodore went on shore this day, and saw many Indian huts, which were covered with the branches of the cocoa nut tree : they v.'ere mean buildings, but finely situated among groves of lofty trees. The men went naked ; but some women were seen, who wore a kind of cloth from the waist to the knee. The shore abounded with coral, and the shells of large pearl oysters, and it is probable a valu- able pearl fishery might be established here. There were many dogs in ihe huts, who kept barking constantly till our adventurers went on board. On the 12th of June sailed to another island, and as they coasted along it, the natives, armed as those of the other islands, kept even with the ship for some leagues. They frequently plunged into the sea, or fell on the sand, that the surf might break over them, to cool and refresh themselves. The boats being near the shore, the crew made signs that they were in want of water ; on which the natives pointed farther along COMMODORE BYRON. 189 the shore, where, when the boats arrived, tliey saw a number of houses, and whither they were followed by the Indians, many more of whoni joined them at this place. The boats havint; got close in shore, ;md tbe ships lying at a snihll distance, a venerable old man, with a white beard, advanced from the house to the beach, attended by a young fellow. Having made a signal for the other Indians to retire, he came forward to the edge of the water, pressing his beard to his breast with one hand and holding a branch of a tree in the other. He now made a kind of musical oration, during wliich the ]icople in the boat threw him some trirtnig presents, which he would neither take up, nor permit his atten- dants to touch, till he had finished iiis harangue, when he walked into the water, and throwing the branch to the boat's crew, he retired, and picked up their presents. Most of thf natives having comjilied with a sign made for them to lay down their arms, one of the midshipmen swam ashore ; on which they flocked round him, admiring his clothes ; as his waistcoat pleased them most he gave it to them, which he had no sooner done, than one of them untied his cravat and ran away wiih it. He now thouoht it time to retreat to the boat, whither several of the natives swam after him : some bringing each a cocoa nut, and others fresh water in the nut shell. This island is situated in 14 degrees 41 minutes south latitude, and 149 degrees 15 minutes west longitude; and both the islands the commodore called King George's Islands. The boats having returned on board, they sailed westward the same day ; and the next afternoon descried anotlier island, toward which they immediately sailed, and found that it was well inhabited, and had a fine appearance of verdure ; but that a violent surf broke all along the coast. It lies in 15 degrees south, and 151 degrees 53 minutes west, and received the name of the Prince of Wales's Island. June the 17th, they concluded that land was near, from the multitudes of birds which flocked about the ship ; but they saw none till the 21st, when it was dis- covered at eight leagues distance, having the appearance of three islands, with rocks between them. These islands abounded with inhabitants, whose dwellings lined the coast ; and the beauty and fertility of the soil seemed to excel that of any place they had seen : but the rocks and breakers with which it was sunounded were an insuperable bar to any attempt at landing. On the 24th they discovered another island, which was named the Duke of York's Island. A terrible sea breaks round the coast, but the place itself had a pleasing appearance. The boats landed with some difficulty, and brought off a large quantity of cocoa nuts, which were a great relief to the sick. Thousands of sea-fowls were found sitting on their nests in high trees, and were so tame as to be easily knocked down : and there were great numbers of land-crabs on the ground. This island has a large lake in the middle, but no inhabitants. On the 29th sailed northward, with a view to cross the equinoctial line, and then sail for the Ladrone islands. On the 2d of July they discovered a low flat island, abounding with the cocoa nut and other trees, and affording a most agreea- ble prospect. A great number of the natives were seen on the beach, many of whom, in about si.xty canoes or proas, sailed, and formed a circle round the ship ; which having surveyed for a considerable time, one of the Indians jumped out of his boat, swam to the ship, ran up its side in a moment, sat down on the deck, and began laughing most violently ; he then ran about the ship, pilfering whatever he could lay hands on, which V«s taken from him as fast as stolen. This man having as many antic 190 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. tricks as a monkey, was dressed in a jacket and trousers, and afforded exquisite diversion. He devoured some biscuit with great eagerness, and havina played the buffoon some time, made prize of his new dress, by iumpmo^ over the side of the ship, and swimming to Ins companions. Sfcveral^'o'hers now swam to the ship, and running by the side to the gun- room ports, committed some petiy theft, swimming off vyith their booty with surprising expedition. These Indians are of a bright copper, with regular and cheerful features, and are tall and well made. Their hair, which is loniT and black, is cither tied in three knots, or m a large bunch behind, 'iiieir ears are bored, and doubtless had worn heavy orna- ments in them, as some were drawn down almost to their shoulders; their ornaments were shells strung together, and worn round the waist, wrist, and neck; but they were otherwise naked. One of them, vvho seemed to be of some rank, wore a string of human teeth round his waist. Some carried a long spear, the sides of which, for the length of three feet, were stuck wTlh the teetli of the shark, which are as keen as a razo'r. Some cocoa nuts being shown them, and signs made that more were wanted, they endeavoured to steal those, instead of directing where more might be found. The officers named this place Byron's Island, in honour of the com- modore. It lies in 1 degree 18 minutes south latitude, and 173 degrees 4G minutes east longitude. They sailed from hence on the 3d of July, and on the 28th had sight of the Islands Saypan, Tinian, and Aiguigan, which lie between two and three leagues from each other. At noon, on the 31st anchored at the south-west end of Tinian, in the situation where the Centurion had anchored with Commodore Anson. The water is so wonderfully clear at this place that, though 144 feet deep, they could see the ground. The commodore went on shore, where he saw many huts, which had been left the preceding year by the Spaniards and Indians. Having chosen a spot on which to erect tents for the sick, Mr. Byron and his company, with prodigious difiiculty, worked their way through the woods, in search of those elegant meadows and lawns of which so enchanting a picture is civen in Anson's Voyage : but, to their unspeakable mortifica- tion, they found the lawns covered with reeds, in which their legs were entanded, and cut as with whipcord ; and these reeds were, in some places^ higher than their heads, and in none less than half that height. From head to foot they were covered with fiies, which got down their throats as often as they attempted to speak. Parties were sent out to kill cattle, which, after being absent three days and nights, and killing a bullock, had seven or eight miles to drag it through the woods and lawns, and when arrived, it was commonly fly- blown, and stunk intolerably. They got poultry with ease ; but the heat was so excessive, that it would turn green, and swarm with maggots, in less than an hour after it was killed. They killed wild hogs that weio-hed 200 pounds each, which afforded their chief supply of fresh meat. A nearo belonging to the Tamar contrived a method to ensnare these animals, so that they sent many on board alive, and were thus always certain of having fresh meat both in the ship and on shore. The Island of Saypan is not only larger, but pleasantcr than Tinian. It is, in a great degree, covered with trees, and abounds with hogs and guanicoes. It is conjectured that the Spaniards, at stated periods, carry on a pearl fishery at this island, as there were evident signs of people ha- ving been lately there, and large heaps of the oyster shells were seen. The SAMUEL WALLIS. 191 commodore remained at Tinian til! iIir 30lh of September, by which time the sick being tolerable well recovered, he weiiihed ;inchor, aivl stood to the northward. This island produces plenty of cotton and indigo, with cocoa nuts, bread fruit, guavas, paupaus, sour oranges, and liim^s. Oti the 5th of November they came to an anchor off' the Island of Tnnoan, on which Mr. Byron landed the day following. The inhabitants, who are Malays, no sooner saw the boat approaching the shore, than many of them came to the beach, each having a dagger by his side, a spear in one hand, and a long knife in the other. The boat's crow, however, made no hesitation to land, and bartered a few handkerchiefs for a goat, a kid, and a dozen of fowls. Nothing worth notice happened till the 14th, when a sloop being seen at anchor in the harbour of an island, named Pulo Ton[)oa, Mr. Byron, having anchored in the same harbour, and observed that the vessel hoist- ed Dutch colours, sent an officer on board, who was received with great poli'eness, tea being immediately made for him and his attendants ; but he could not make himself understood, the crew consisting entirely of Malays. The commodore sailed the following day, and held his course till the 19th, when he spoke with an English snow, bound from Bencoolen to Malacca and Bengal, in the East India Company's service. At this time their biscuit was filled with worms, and rotten, and their beef and pork was stinking. The master of the snow being apprized of this cir- cumstance, sent Mr. Bvron two gallons of arrack, a turtle, twelve fowls, and a sheep. The ships remained in this harbour till the 10th of Decem- ber, when they sailed. During their run from hence to Prince's Island, in the Strait of Sunda, they were so abundantly supplied with turtle, by boats from the Java shore, that the conimon sailors subsisted wholly on that fish. They staid at Prince's Island till the 19th, when they sailed for the Cape of Good Hope. On the lOth of February saw a great smoke arising from a. sandy beach, which they supposed to have been made by the Hottentots. On the 13th they came to an anchor, and the next morning the governor sent his coach and six for the commodore, and received him with great politeness, offering him the accommodations of the company's house in the garden, and the use of his coach. They sailed on the 7th of March, and on the 25lh crossed the equi- noctial line. About this time an accident happening to the rudder of the Tamar, and it being impossible to make a perfect repair of it at sea, the captain was ordered to bear away for Antigua ; in consequence of which they parted company on the 1st of April ; and the Dolphin, without meeting with any other material occurrence, came to an anchor in the Downs on the 9th of May, 1766, after having been rather above twenty. two months in the circumnavigation of the globe. CAPTAIN SAMUEL WALLIS.— 1766-68. Samuel Wallts, Esq , having been appointed to command his majesty's ship the Dolphin, destined for a voyage round the world, received orders to take under his command the Swallow sloop, and Prince Frederick store-ship. These vessels sailed on the 22d of August. 1766, and, on the 7th of September, in the evening, came to an anchor in the road of Madeira. They sailed thence on the 12th, after having taken in sea stores By 193 OYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. the 12th of November they were in 30 degrees of south latitude, wheu they found the weather so cold as to have recourse to their thick jacketa. Ou'lhe 16th of December, being very near Cape Virgin Mary, they saw several men riding" on the shore, who made signs for them to land. In the morning the captain went on shore, with a boat's crew from each ship, and having made signs for the Indians to sit down, gave them combs, buttons, knives, scissors, beads, iSic, and pleased the women greatly hj the distribution of some ribands. The tallest among these people was si.\ feet seven inches, several others were from one to two inches shorter ; but the general height was from five feet ten to six feet. They were muscular and well made, but their hands and feet very small in propor- tion to the rest of their bodies. They rode on horses about fourteen hands high, and had dogs of the Spanish kind ; both men and women rode astride, and the men were furnished with wooden spurs : some of the men had their arms painted, the faces of others were variously marked, and others again had their left eye enclosed by a painted circle. Their arms were two round stones, enclosed with leather, one of which was fastened at each end of a string eight feet in length ; and one stone being held in the hand, the other was swung round the head with great force for some time, and then discharged at any mark they chose to strike. These people, who are great talkers, were often heard to say Ca-pi-ta- nc, on which they were successively addressed in Portuguese, Spanish, Dutch, and French : but they had no knowledge of either of those lan- guages. When they shook hands with any of the crew, they always said chevow ; and they were amazingly ready in learning English words, and pronounced the sentence " Englishmen, come on shore " with great facility. As they seemed desirous of going on board, the captain took eight into the boats, on which they instantly began singing for joy ; but, when they came into the ship, expressed no kind of surprise at the novelties they beheld, till a looking-glass being observed, they acted many antic gestures before it, occasionally walking to and from it, talking with earnestness and laughing immoderately. They would drink nothing but water, but they eagerly ate every article of the ship's provisions. They were highly pleased with some turkeys and guinea-hens which were onboard, nor did the hogs and sheep escape their attention. One of them making signs that he should be glad of some clothes, the captain gave him a pair of shoes and buckles, and presented the rest with a little bag each, in which he put new sixpences and halfpence, with a riband passed through a hole in them, to hang round their necks : the remaining contents of the bag were, a looking-glass, a comb, some beads, a knife, a pair of scissors, some twine, and a few slips of cloth ; being offered some tobacco, they smoked a few minutes, but did not seem to like it. The marines being exercised before them, they were terrified at the firing of the muskets, and OIK! of them falling down, shut his eyes, and lay without motion, as if to intimate that he knew the destructive nature of those weapons. This day, the 21st, they turned into the Strait of Magellan with the flood-tide, and saw many people on horseback, hunting the guanicoes, which ran up the country with prodigious swiftness. On the 26th an- chored in Port Famine Bay, and the sick were sent on shore, where a tent was erected for their reception, as was another for the accommodation of the sail-makers and those who landed to get wood. On the 28th the empty water-casks were landed ; and on this day great quantities of fish were caught, among which were smelts. When they arrived here, many SAMUEL WALLIS. 193 of the people were very bail with the scurvy ; bat by the plentiful use of vegetables, and bathing in the sea, they all recovered in a very short time. They sailed on the 18th, and came to an anchor the next day, half a mile from the shore, opposite a current of fresh water that falls rapidly from the mountams. On the evening of the 2Sth saw a great smoke on the southern shore, and another on Prince Rupert's Island ; and the next morning some people being sent on shore for water, had no sooner land- ed than several of the natives came oil" in three canoes ; and, having advanced toward the sailors, made signs of friendship, which being an- swered to their wish, they shouted aloud, ani the English shouted in return. The ships sailed on the 3d of February, and came to an anchor in York Road on the same day. The next morning Captain VVallis, with a party, went on shore near Bachelor's River. There is a cataract near this river, the noise of which is tremendous, as it falls more than 400 yards, partly over a very steep descent, and partly in a perpendicular hne. They sailed on the 14th, and came to anchor again the same day in York Road, after having lost ground by the contrary winds. On the 1st of March sailed again, and anchored on the same day in a bay which they called Lion's Cove, from whence they sailed on Monday ; and on the five following days encountered such terrible weather that they had no pros- pect before them but that of immediate destruction. On the 16th both ships were safely anchored in a place called Swallow Haibour, whence they sailed the next morning; and on the foUowmg day the Swallow, being driven among breakers, made signals of distress ; but was happdy relieved by a breeze from the shore. On the lOlh of April the two ships sailed in company ; and on the 11th lost sight of each other, and did not meet again during the whole voyage. This day the Dolphin cleared the Strait of Magellan, in which she had laboured with innumerable difficulties, and escaped most imminent dan- gers, in a passage of almost four months, viz., from December the 17th, 1766, to the llth of April following. In the year 1581 the Spaniards it seems built a town here, which they named PhillipviUe, and left in it a colony of 400 persons. These were all starved to death except twenty- four, all of whom but one proceeded in search of the River Plata, and most probably perished, as no tidings were ever heard of them ; the remaining man, whose name was Hernando, was taken on board by Sir William Cavendish, in the year 1587, and brought to England ; and the place was called Port Famine, from the melancholy fate of these unfor- tunate men. Wood and water abound at this place ; geese, ducks, teal, &c., are in great abundance, and there is no want of fish ; so that the face of things must be greatly changed since the Spaniards were there. On the 1st of June they saw several men-of-war birds, and the next day observed some gannels ; and the weather being at this time very various, they conceived hopes that they drew near the land. On the 4th a turtle swam close by the ship ; and the next day a great variety of birds were seen. The long wished-for relief was now fast approaching ; for on Saturday, the 6th, the man at the mast-head cried, " Land in the west-north-west." This proved to be a low island, distant five or six leagues, and was soon seen from the deck, to the great joy of every one on board. When they came within five miles, they discovered another W the west-north-west. As no anchorage was to be found, and the whole island was encompassed with rocks and breakers, the captain resolved to 17 194 VOYAttES ROUND THE WORLD. steer for the other island, giving the name of Whitsun Island to this, because it was discovered on ihe eve of V\'hitsunday. Having approached the second, about fifty of the natives, armed with pikes, and some having fire-brands in their hands, were observed running on the coast. Two boats were sent out, manned and armed, and ths lieutenant was instructed to steer for that part of the shore where the people had been seen, to avoid offending them, and to try to procure water and fruit, in exchange for such commodities as he took. When the boat came near the shnre, the natives put themselves in a position ai if they would defend it with their pikes ; but the crew making signs of friendship, and e.xposing I heir trinke'ts, some of the Indians walked into the water ; to whom it was hinted, that some cocoa nuts and water would be acceptable ; which was no sooner done tiian they fetched a small quantity of each, which they ventured to bring to the boats, and received some nails and other trifles in e.\c?ange. Wliile they were dealing, one of them stole a silk handkerchief with its contents, but the thief could not be discovered. The lieutenant was again sent on shore to take posses- sion of the island in the king's name, and to call it Queen Charlotte's Island. The boats returned loaded with cocoa nuts and scurvy-grass, after having found two wells of excellent water. Provisions for a week were now allotted for an officer and twenty men, who were ieft on shore to fill water ; the sick were landed for the benefit of the air ; and a number ofhands were appointed to climb the cocoa trees, and gather the nuts. On an adjoining island they found the people who had fled from Queen Charlotte's Island, with several others, in the whole near 100. It lies in 19 degrees 20 minutes south latitude, and 138 degrees 30 minutes west longitude, and received the name of Egmont Island. On the llth they observed about sixteen persons on an island, which was called Gloucester Island ; but, being surrounded with rocks and breakers, they did not attempt to land. This day they likewise discovered another, which was called Cumberland Island ; and on the day following a third, which received the name of Prince William Henry's Island. On the 17ih again discovered land, and at ten at night saw a light, which convinced them it was inhabited ; and remarked, that there was plenty of cocoa trees, a certain indication of no want of water. The day following an otTicer was sent to the shore, with instructions to exchange some toys for such things as the island produced. He saw a great num- ber of the people, but could find no place in which the ship might anchor. From the number of people seen, and their having some large double canoes on the shore, it was thought there were larger islands at no great distance : the captain, therefore, having named this place Osnaburgh Island, made sail, and having soon discovered high land, came to an anchor, because the weather was foggy. Early the next morning they saw land, distant four or five leagues ; but, after having sailed toward it some time, thought proper again to anchor, on account of the thickness of the fog ; but it was no sooner cleared away than they found the ship encompassed by hundreds of canoes, in which were many hundreds of people. Some baubles were shown them, and signs made to come on board, on which they rowed the canoes toward each other, and a general consultation took place ; at the conclusion of which they all surrounded the ship with an appearance of friendship, and one of them delivered an oration, at the conclusion of which he threw into the sea the branch of a plantain tree, which he held in his hand. This being done, a young Indian, of more apparent courage than the rest, ven- SAMUEL WALLI8. 1Q5 tured on board the ship. The captain would have given him some bau- bles, but he refused the acceptance of them till those in the cauocs came alongside, and, having held a consuliation, threw on board several branches of the plantain tree. They sailed along the shore, while the canoes made toward the land. In the afternoon the ship brought to, and the boats being sent to sound a bay that promised good anchorage, the canoes tiocked round them. Nest morning they were ofTapeak of land, which was almost covered with the latives and their houses. On the 2 1st the ship came to an anchor, and 'everal canoes came alongside, bringing a large quantity of fr\at, with •owls and hogs, for which they received nails and toys in exchange. The boats, having been sent to sound along the coast, were followed by large double canoes, three of which ran at the cutter, staved in her quarter, and otherwise damaged her ; the Indians, at the same time, armed with clubs, endeavouring to board her. The crew now tired ; and wonndinor one man dangerously, and killing another, they both fell into the sea, whither their companions dived after them, and got them into the canoe. They now tried if they could stand or sit ; but as the one was quite dead, they laid him at the bottom of the canoe, and the wounded man was sup- ported in a sitting posture. The ship made sail the day following, with intention to anchor off the watering place ; but the man at the mast-head discovering a bay a few miles to leeward, they immediately stood for it ; when the ship had almost reached the boats she suddenly struck, and her head remained immoveably fixed on a coral rock near an hour, when she was happily relieved by a breeze from the shore. During the whole time of being in danger, she was eticompassed by hundreds of Indians in their canoes ; but not one attempted to board her. The ship was now piloted round a reef into a harbour, where she moored. On the 24th she sailed farther up the harbour, followed by many canoes, bringing provisions, which were exchanged for nails, knives, &c. In the evenmg a number of large canoes advanced, laden with stones, on which the captain ordered the strictest watch to be kept. At length some canoes came off, with a number of vifoman on board, who, bemg brought almost under the ship, began to practice many arts of indehcacy. During this exhibition, the large canoes came close round the ship ; some of the Indians playing on a kind of flute, others singing, and the rest blowing a sort of shells. Soon after a large canoe advanced, in which was an awnhig, on the top of which sat one of the natives, holding some yellow and red feathers in his hand. The captain having consented to his coming alongside, he delivered the feathers ; and while a present was preparing, he put back from the ship, and threw the branch of a cocoa tree in the air. This appeared the signal for an onset ; for there was an instant shout from all the canoes, which, approaching the ship, threw volleys of stones into every part of her. On this two guns, loaded with small shot, were fired, and the people on guard discharged their muskets. The number of Indians now round the ship was full two thousand ; and though they were at first disconcerted, soon recovered their spirits and renewed the attack. Thousands were observed on shore, embarking as fast as the canoes could bring ilicmofT: orders were, therefore, given for filing the cannon, some of which were brought to bear upon the shore. This put a stop to all hostilities on the part of the natives for a short time, but the scattered canoes soon got together again, and, having hoisted white streamers, advanced, and threw stones of two 196 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. pounds weight from slings, by which a number of the seamen wero wounded. At tliis time several canoes approached the bow of the ship, from whence no shot had been yet discharged. In one of lliese was an Indian, who appeared to have an authority over the rest : a gun was there- fore levelled at his canoe, the shot of which split it in two pieces, which put an end to the contest ; the canoes rowed off wiih the utmost speed, and the people on shore ran and concealed themselves behind the hills. Next day a lieulen^mt was des{)atched with all the boats manned and armed, and a number of marines, with orders to land under cover of the ship and boats ; which being effected, he turned a piece of turf, and having hoisted a pendant on a staff, took possession of the place, for his sovereign, by the name of King George the Third's Island. At this lime the lieutenant observed two old men on the ofjposite side of the river, who seemed much terrified, and assumed a posture of supplication. Sit^ns were made for them to moss the river, which one of them having done, he crawled on his hands and knees toward the lieutenant ; who, showintf him some stones that had been throw at the ship, hinted that the Indians should receive no harm if they were not the aggressors. Next day, while a party was engaged in filling the water casks, the old man wlio had been seen the day before crossed the river, and brought with him some fowls and fruit. The captam, who wns indisposed on board the ship, employed himself in remarking what was going forward on shore : and, by the help of glasses, saw many of the Indians creep- ing behind the bushes toward the watering place, while incredible num- bers were coming through the woods, and a large party descending a hill, all advancinir to the same spot ; and two divisions of canoes were making round the opposite points of the bay. The lieutenant got his party on board the boats, but not before he had sent the old Indian to prevail on the others to keep at a proper distance, as he wanted only 'water — but this had no effect ; and, as soon as the crews were in the boats, the natives possessed themselves of the casks as lawful prize. Those at some distance from the watering place pushed forward with all speed, keeping pace with the canoes, which were rowed at an extraordinary rate ; while a great number of wotnen and children were seated on a hill, from whence they could command a view of all that passed. When the canoes came near that part of the bay where the ship rode, they took in many people from the shore, who were laden with bags filled with stones. All the canoes now approached the ship, on which the captain gave orders to fire on the first cluster that should assem- ble ; this had such an effect, that they all rowed off with the utmost speed. They then fired into several parts of the wood, on which the Indians all fled to the hill where the women and children were, so that several thousands were now on that spot The captain being resolved to make this action decisive, fired toward the hill ; and two balls fallmg near a spot where many of these people had stationed themselves, they were all terrified beyond description, and disappeared in an instant. On the 27th, while a party was getting water, the old man before • mentioned appeared oi: the opposite side of the river ; and having harangued them some time, he came over ; when the officer, pointing to the bags ai;d stones which had been brought down, tried to convince him that his countrymen had injured the English, who had acted only on the defensive. He departed with signs of being content, and in a few hours the natives began a traffic, which proved highly advantageous to the ship's company c5 SAMUEL WALLIS. 197 The old Indian, who had visited the interior parts of the island in quest of provisions, returned on the 5th, and brought with hitn a roasted hog as a present for the captain, who, in return, eiuiched him by putting him in possession of a looking-glass, an iron pot, &c. Three days after this, the gunner conducted to the ship a lady of a portly figure and agree- able face, whose age seemed to be upward of forty. She had but lately arrived in that part of the island ; and the gunner, observing that she seemed to have great authority, presented her with some toys, on which she invited him to her house, and gave him some fine hogs. She was afterward taken on board at her own desire, where her whole behaviour indicated the woman of superior rank. The captain presented her with a looking-glass and some toys, and gave her a handsome blue mantle, which he lied round her with ribands. Having intimated that she should be glad to see the captain on shore, he signified liis intention of visiting her on the following day. Accordingly, on Sunday, the 13lh, he went on shore, where he was met by his fair friend, who was attended by a numerous retinue, some of whom she directed to carry the captain, and others who had been ill, over the river, and thence to her habitation : the procession was closed by a guard of marines and seamen. As they advanced, great numbers of Indians crowded to see them ; but, on a slight motion of her hand, made ample room for the procession to pass. Many persons of both se.xes advanced to meet her, whom she caused to kiss the captain's hand, while she signified that they were related to her. Her house was above three hundred and twenty feet in length, and about forty in breadth. The roof, which was covered with the leaves of the palm tree, was supported by a row of pillars on each side, and another in the middle. The highest part of the thatch on the inside was about thirty feet from the ground, and the space between the sides of the building and the edge of the roof being twelve feet, was left entirely open. The captain, lieutenant, and purser, who had been ill, being seated, the lady helped four of her female attendants to pull off their coats, shoes, and stockings ; which being awkwardly performed, the girls smoothed down the skm, and rubbed it lightly with their hands for more thm half an hour ; and the gentlemen received great benefit from the operation. The surgeon, being heated with walking, having pulled off his wig, one of the Indians screamed out ; the eyes of the whole company were instantly fixed on the miraculous sight, remaining some time in the most profound astonishment. When they had recovered from their surprise, the lady ordered several bales of cloth, the produce of the island, to be brought out, in which she dressed the captain and all his attendants. Orders had been given, that the captain should be carried as before ; but as he chose to walk, she took hold of his arm, and when they came near any wet or dirty places, she lifted him over, with as much ease as a man would a child. She attended them to the shore, when she took her leave, having presented the captain with a fine sow, big with young. On the loth a large party, in all the boats, rowed round part of the island, in order to take a view of it, and purchase provisions. They returned with a number of hogs and fowls, and some plantains and cocoa nuts. The island was found to be everywhere very pleasant, and to abound with various necessaries of life. On the 17th Captain Wallis received another visit from the lady, whom he called his queen. She repeated her visit on the following day, and gave the captain two hogs : and the master being sent to attend her home, she clothed him in the 17* 198 VOYAGiES ROUND THE WORLD. dress of the country, as she had done the captain and his retmue. On the 21st she repeated the visit, and presented him with some hogs. On her departure she invited the captain to her house, who, taking some officers with him, attended her home. On their arrival, she tied round their hats some wreaths of plaited hair, and distinguished the captain's by the additional ornament of a tuft of feathers of different colours. When they returned, she went with them to the water-sid-?, and ordered some presents into the boat. On the 24th the captain presented his friend, the old Indian, with cloth and other matters, and sent a variety of things to the queen, among which were a cat with kitten, turkeys, geese, hens, and various kinds of garden seeds ; which compliment she returned by a present of fruit and hogs. While they remained here, they sowed peas and garden seeds, and staid long enough to see them come up, and likely to thrive. The captain, having sent a party on shore on the 2Sth to examine the country minutely, caused a tent to be erected to observe an eclipse of the sun, and when it was ended, took his telescope lo the queen's house to show her the use of it ; and her surprise is not to be expressed, on her beholding several objects which she was very familiar with, but which were too distant to be seen by the naked eye. On the conclusion of this mental feast, the captain invited the queen and her attendants on board the ship, judging that no insult would be offered to the party he had sent out, while the prnicipal people were in his power. The queen's atten- dants ate heartily of an elegant dinner, and drank water only ; but the queen would neither eat nor drink. When the party returned from their excursion, the captain gave orders for landing the queen and her train. She made signs to be informed if he held his resolution as to the time of his departure ; and being answered in the affirmative, her tears witnessed the agitation of her mind. On the 26ih the queen visited the captain, with her usual presents. In the afternoon she came again, and solicited him to remain ten days lon- ger : but being informed that he should certainly sail on the following day, she burst into tears, and demanding when he would come again, was told in tiftv days. She remained on bo^rd till evening, when, being informed that the boat waited for her, she wept with more violence than she had yet dene. At length this affectionate creature went over the ship's side, as did the old Indian who had been so serviceable to the crew. This man had signihed that his sou should sail vvith the captain ; but when the time of departure came, the youth was not to be I'ound ; and it was thoiiirht that the parental affeciion had got the better of the promise. Early the next mornnig two boats were sent to fill a few casks of water ; but the officer, alarmed at finding the shore crowded with people, was about to return. This brought the queen forward, who commanded the Indians to retire to the opposite side of the river, and then made signs for the boats to land While the water was filling, she ordered some presents into the boat, and entreated to go once more to the ship ; but' the olticer having it in charge not to bring off a single native, she order ed her double canoe out, and was followed by many others. When she had been on board, weeping bitterly, for an hour, advantage was taken of a breeze, and the ship got under sail. She now tenderly embraced the captain and officers, and left the ship ; but the wind falling, the canoes all put back, and once more reached ihe ship, to which the queen's being made fast, she advanced to the bow of the canoe, and wept incessantly. The captain presented her with several articles of use and ornament, whiqh SAMUEL WALLIS. 199 she received in silent sorrow. After some time a breeze springing up, the queen and her attendants took tlieir final leave, with many tears, which drew corresponding tears from the eyes of our countrymen. The place where the ship had lain was called Port Royal Harbour, and is situated in 17 degrees 30 minutes south latitude, and 150 degrees west longitude. The men of Olaheite are from live feet seven to five feet ten inches high, well-proportioned, alert, and of good countenances. The women f-rorn five feet to five and a half, handsome in general, but some of them asbeautilui as can be imagined. The complexion of those men who are much on the water is rather red; but the natural colour of them all is the lawny. They are remariiably distinguished from all the other natives of Asia, Africa, and America, by the colours of their hair ; for that of the former is universally black, while the people of Otaheite have the various colours of black, brown, red, and flixeii ; most of the children having the latter ; when left loose, it has a strong natural curl, but it is usually worn tied in two bunches, one on each side the head, or in a single bunch in the middle. They anoint the head with the oU of the cocoa nut, mixed with a root of a fragrant smell. An Indian who attended the queen appearing to be fond of imitating the English, was presented with a suit of the heuienant's clothes, which became him extremely well. As it was shoal water at the landing place, the English officers were carried on shore ; and this man, unwilhng to be out of the fashion, was carried in the same manner by the Indians. In his attempt to use a knife and fork at first, his hand always went to his mouth, while the food remained stuck on the end of the fork. Besides the articles already mentioned, these people eat the Hesh of dogs. Rats abound on the island, but are not eaten. The river produces parrot-fish, groopers, cray-fish, and mullet, and conchs and muscles are found on the rocks ; the inhabitants use nets, and hooks and lines. There is something singular in their way of dressing their food ; having produced a fire by rubbing two pieces of dry wood together, they dig a pit, which being paved with stones, they make a fire in it. The stones being properly heated, they rake away the ashes, and covering the stones with green leaves of ttie cocoa nut tree, they put tlieir meat in plantain leaves, and place it in the pit, covering it over with the hot ashes, on which they lay bread fruit and yams enclosed in plantain leaves ; these again they cover with the embers intermixed with the hot stones ; to this succeeds a layer of cocoa nut leaves, and upon the whole is a covering of earth. In this manner a small hog is dressed whole, but a large one is cut in two; and Captain Wallis asserts, that this method of cookery exceeds every other ho has known, the meat being extremely tender and full of gravy. Their only sauces are salt water and fruit, and their knives are maile of shells. The Dolphin sailed from Otaheite on the 27th of July, 1767, and pass- ed the Duke of York's Island, the coast of which libouiids with plantain trees, cocoa nut, bread fruit, and apple trees. On the 38th they discover- ed land, which was called Sir Charles Saimder's Island. On the 30th again made land, which received the name of Lord Howu's Island, on which smoke was seen, but no inhabitants. Their next discovery' was of some dangerous shoals, to wliich Captain Walhs gave the name of the Scilly islands. Tliey now steered westward till the 13th of August, when they saw two small islands, one of which was named Keppel's Isle, and the other Joscawen's Island ; on the latter of which were several inhabitants. 200 VOYAGES RODND THE WORLD. On the IGth they again discovered land, to which the officers gave the name of Wailis's Island. The coast of this island is very rocky, and the trees grow almost to the edge of the water. The inhabitants wore no covering but a mat round the waist : each man had a very large club, two of which were purchased by the boat's crew. On the 18lh of September they discovered the Island of Saypan, and soon afterward that of Tinian, off which they anchored on the day follow- ing. Tents were erected for the sick, who were sent on shore with all expedition. The smith's forge and carpenter's chest were also landed ; and the captain and first lieutenant, who both continued ill, went on shore with a party of men to hunt for cattle. By the 15th of October the fruit and water were carried on board, and all the sick being recovered, prepara- tions were made for sailing ; and on the ne.xt day they left the bay, and sailed to the west. On the od of November they discovered three islands, which were named Sandy Isle, Small Key, and Long Island ; and •n the day follow- ing they saw another, to which Captain Wallis gave the name of New Island ; which islands are in 10 degrees 20 minutes north latitude, and 237 detrrees 30 minutes west lonr;itude. They now altered their course, and on the 13th saw the Islands of Timoun, Aros, and Pesang. On the 16th they crossed the equinoctial line, and came again into south latitude. The next day they saw the Islands of Pulo Tote and Pulo Weste, soon after which they had sight of the seven islands. On the 23d saw the coast of Sumatra, and came to an anchor in the road of Batavia on the 30th of November, 1767. From this he sailed on the 8th of December, without losing a single man, and having only two on the sick list. On the 24th of January they encountered a dreadful storm, which tore the sails to pieces, broke a rudder-chain, and carried several of the booms overboard ; yet, during this storm, they observed a number of birds and butterflies. On the 30th they saw land, and came to an anchor in Table Bay, at the Cape of Good Hope, on the 4th of February. On the 25th all hands were ordered on board, and on the 17th of March they anchored in the Bay of St. Helena, and sent persons on shore to get water, and others to gather purslain, of which there is great plenty. On the 28th they crossed the equinoctial line, getting once more into north latitude, and on the 24th of next month saw the Cape of Pico. No material incident happened from this time to the end of the voyage, which was happily completed bv the Dolphin coming to an anchor in the Downs on the 20th of May, 1768. CAPTAIN CARTERET.— 1766-69. Mr. Carteret having already circumnavigated the g!ol)e with Commo dore Byron, was appointed to the command of the Swallow sloop soon after his return to England ; and on the 22d of August, 1766, sailed from Plymouth in company with his majesty's ship the Dolphin, and the Prince Frederic store-ship. It will be needless to recite any particulars which happened till the 11th of April, when the Swallow parted company with the Dolphin and Prince Frederic, as already related in the account of the preceding voyage. At nine o'clock on this day, the Swallow had totally lost sight of the Dolphin, which Captain Carteret judged to be then clear of the mouth of the straits ; and as the Swallow was then under land, where she had no; CAPTAIN CARTERET. 201 the advantage of any considerable breeze, ihey entertained r»ty hope of peeing ihfir con.^ort during the remainder of the voyage. At this time all the cloth, hneti, cutlery-wares, and trinkets, were on board the Dolphin ; a circumstance which aggravated Ciiplain Carteret's distress, as he had not anything proper lo barter with the Indians. A few hours after the ships parted company, the Swallow encountered a violent storm, during which there was so thick a fog that they could not see mountamous land which they were within half a mile of They sailed from this place early in the morning of the 15th of April, and soon after- ward, by the sudden shifting of the wind, encountered so violent a storm that they were in danger of sinking. They at lengih got into the open sea, after a very providential deliverance, for, had the wind again shifted, the ship must have been unavoidably lost. From the 27ih of this month till the 1st of May they had continual storms, and on this day a prodigious sea laid the whole ship under water for some time, wnile the wind blew a hurricane, and the rain poured down in torrents. On the 9th of .May they were in sight of the Island of Masa- fuero ; and on the 10th saw Juan Fernandez, and sailed round to Cum- berland Bay, on the cast side of it. The Spaniards having fortified this island, (a circumstance till then unknown to Captain Carteret,) a number of men were seen on the shore, and two large boats lying on the beach. A house and four pieces of can- non were observed near the sea-side, and on the brow of a hill, at a small distance, was a fort with Spanish colours flying. Many cattle were seen on the hills, and abuve twenty houses on different parts of the island. On the eastern side of tlie west bay they saw a kind of guard-house, with two pieces of cannon, on carriages, near it They now returned toward Cumberland Bay, when a boat put after them ; but night coining on, they lost sight of her. Thus disappointed of refreshments so much wanted, thev sailed for Masafuero, and anchored on the 12ih, but were unable to land, as the beach was full of rocks, and the surf ran so vio- lently that the best swimmers could not get through tho breakers ; the next morning, however, the boats filled some water casks. On the 15th anchoied on the east side of the island ; but were driven from their moorings, and kept out at sea all night. In the morning the cutter was sent for water, and the ship got near the shore, where she soon received several casks, and sent the boat for more ; the long boat was likewise despatched on this service. On the 17th the cutter was again sent for water ; and, when she re- turned, the lieutenant reported, that the violent rains which had fallen in the night had brought down such a deluge of water, that the people on shore narrowly escaped drowning, after losing several of the casks. This day such a quantity offish was taken by the boat, with hooks and lines only, as was equal to the consumption of the whole crew. On the 20th the ship, which had been some time standing off and on near the shore, came again to an anchor, when the long boat being sent out, pro- cured, in a short time, an ample supply of fish. During the night, and all the following day, they had e.xtreme bad weather ; but, as soon as it became moderately calm, three seamen were sent on shore to kill seals, and make oil of their fat, for the use of the lamps. The Island of Masafuero is of a triangular form, about twenty-two miles in circumference, and, at a distance, has the appearance of a single rock ; there is good anchorage on many parts of the coast, and the island abounds with goats. Wood and water are plentiful, but difficult to be 202 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. procured, on account of the violence of the surf. Cod, hallibut, coal- fish, and cray-fish, are to be caught in great numbers ; and seal are so numerous, that the killing of thousands could make no apparent difference in their numbers. The mountain cabbage grows on tlie island, which likewise abounds in birds, among which are hawks of a very large size. They now sailed to the north, with the hope of getting the south-east trade wind, till the 17th of June, which is the depth of winter, when the weather v/as dark and cold, with sleet, rain, thunder, and lightning. On the 2d of July they discovered an island, which was well clothed with trees, and down the side of which ran a stream of fresh water. It appeared to be about five miles in circumference, and was called Pitcairn's Island, from the name of a young gentleman who first saw it. On the llth Captain Carteret gave the name of the Bishop of Osna- burgh's Island to a low piece of land discovered this day, which was well clothed with verdure. On tae VZih they saw two other small islands, on one of which the boat's crew landed, and found birds so tame as lo be taken without the least ditiiculty. The other island was about fifteen miles distant: but neither afforded either water or vegetables. They were called the Dnke of Gloucester's Islands ; and Captain Carteret sup- poses them to be the same land which was seen by Quiros. On the lOih of August the ship sprung a leak, in a part which they could not come at to repair, so that their situation was truly alarming ; but two days afterward discovered land, which gave fresh spirits to the ahnost desponding crew. The captain observed seven islands, and sailed toward two of them, which lay very near together: in the evening came to an anchor near the largest, on which were seen two of the natives who were negroes, with woolly heads, and wore no kind of clothing. On the day following the cutter, with the master and a party of seamen, was sent to the westward, to search for a place to procure wood and water, to seek for refreshments for the sick, and to discover a place where the ship might be repaired. He received orders to be strictly on his guard against any attack from the natives, and took with him a few trinkets that happened to be on board, to procure their good will. In a short time after he returned on board, having three arrows sticking in his body. The account he gave of his expedition was, in substance, as fol- lows : Being arrived at a place about fifteen miles from the ship, he saw some houses, but only a very few of the natives, and landed with four of the crew, well armed ; the first fears of the Indians being dispelled, they accepted his presents with pleasure, and, in return, gave him some fish, yams, and cocoa nuts. He then went to the houses; but soon ob- serving a number of the natives among the trees, and several canoes coming round a point, he hastened toward the boat ; but, before he could embark, a general attack with bows and arrows was made, as well on those in the boat as on those ou shore. Thus situated, the crew fired repeatedly, killing and wounding many of the Indians ; still, however, the latter continued the fight, some of them running into the water as high as the breast; and when the boat got farther off, she was pursued bv the canoes, which did not retreat till one of them was sunk, and many of the people in the others were killed. The captain naw determined to attempt the reparation of the ship in her present situation, and succeeded so far that the leak was greatly reduced. On the 1.5th a party was sent on shore to get water, a shot having bpeii previously fired into the woods, to disperse any of the natives that might be lurking in them, The lieutenant was likewise CAPTAIN CARTERET. 203 despatched in the cutter to keep the coast clear for the waterers, by repeated firings into the woods ; yet, in spite of these precautions, a flight of arrows was soon discharged among thein, by which one of the seamen was dangerously wounded. As the master was now dyuig of his wounds, as the captain and lien- tenant were so ill that their recovery was doubtful, and as their was no chance of procuring proper refreshments at this place, all intentions of pursuing the voyage farther to the southward were laid aside ; the captain, therefore, having named the place Eirniont Isltnd, and the harbour where the ship had lain Swallow Bay, sailed from it on the 17lh of August, 1767. On the same day an island was discovered, which received the name of Portland's Island, four miles from which they saw a harbour, which was called Byron's Harbour; three leagues from it, they had sight of the bay where the Indians had attacked the crew of the cutter. This was called Bloody Bay ; on its borders were a number of houses well constructed, and one much longer than the others, which had the appea- rance of a kind of hall for the transaction of public business. In this place, which was well built, and covered wiiii a kind of thatch, the master and his party had been received by the natives, before the wanton cutting down of the cocoa nut tree. A large number of arrows were hung in bundles roujid the room, the Moor and sides of which were covered with malting. In this neighbourhood were many gardens, siu"- rounded by stone-walls, and planted with vegetables. Three miles from this village a large town was seen, in the front of which, toward the sea, was an angular kmd of fortification, built of stone, and near five feet high. About three miles hence ibey saw a bay, into which a river empties itself, which they called Granville's River, and it appeared to be naviga- ble for small vessels far up the country. The pomt of this bay was called Ferrers's Point ; and from this the land forms a large bav, near which is a considerable town, inhabited by an incredible number of peo- ple, who, while the ship was sailing by. came out of their houses, hold- incr something like a bundle of grass in their hands, with which they appeared to stroke each other, running in rings, or dancing, all the while. Sailing onward a few miles, they saw another point, wluch was called Carteret Point, on which was a large canoe, with an awning over it ; at a small distance was another town, fortified as that, before- mentioned. The inhabitants of this place likewise advanced before their houses, and danced as the others had done. The dance being ended, many came off in canoes toward the ship ; but having got near enough to have a good view of her, they would advance no farilier. They soon saw another small island, which was named Trcvanion's Island, and the north part of it was called Cape Trevanion. Both the main land and this island abounded with inhabitants ; and a boat being sent to sound the passage, they no sooner observed that she had left tha ship, than several canoes advanced to attack her. The Indians having let fly their arrows, the boat's crew fired, and killed one man and wound- ed another. A gun, laden with grape-shot, was at the same time fireil from the ship, on which all the canoes jjulled hard for the shore, except the one with the wounded man in it, which being taken to the ship, the surgeon was ordered to examine his wounds. One of this poor fellow's arms was broken, and a shot had gone through his bead ; and the surgeon beino- of opinion that the latter wound was mortal, he was placed in his «anoe again, and with one hand rowed toward the shore. 204 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. To all the islands they had now left Captain Carteret gave the general name of Queen niiarlolie's Islands ; and, besides those already mention- ed, he saw several, which he named as follows: viz., Lord Howe's Island, Keppel's Island, Lord Edgcome's Island, Carry's Island, and Volcano Island; this last being so denominated from a smoke that issued from its top, which is of an amazing height, and shaped like a sugar loaf Sailed on the 20th of August, and discovered a small island, which was called Gower's Island, the people of which did not ditler in any- thing material from those of the islands he had lately left. Some cocoa nuis were here procured in exchange for nails; and the inhabitants had intimated, that they would furnish a farther supply the next morning ; but it was then found that the current had carried the ship considerably to the south during the night, and brought them within sight of two other island.?, one of which was called Simpson's Island, and the other Car- teret's Island. They fell in with nine islands in the night of the 24lh, which Captain Carteret supposes lo be the same that were discovered by Tasman, and are named Chang Java ; eight of these are very small, but the other is more extensive, and are all inhabited by blacks, whose heads are woolly, like those on the coast of Africa. The next day they had sight of an island covered with verdure, which was called Sir Charles Hardy's Island, and from the number of fires seen on it, was supposed to be inhabited. This day they likewise had sight of a large island, fovmed of three high hills, which took the name of Winchelsea's Island. On the 26th saw a large island to the north, wiiich Captain Carteret imagines lo have been the Island of St. John, discovered by Schouten, This day Vere witliin sight of IVova Britannia, and the next morning the current drove the ship into a deep bay, which, in Dampier's Voyages, is called St. George's Bay. On the 28th they gave the name of Wal- lis's Island to a small one in a bay, off which they came to an anchor, and were now 7,500 miles due-west from the main land of America. On the next day, after great fatigue, weighed the anchor, and sailed to a place which they called English Cove, where they immediately began to take in wood and water. They now attempted to catch fish with hooks and lines, but none of them would bite ; nor vve*c they much more successful with their nets ; turtle likewise were very pleirtiful, yet they could not take any ; but at low water picked up some large cockles and rock oysters. From the shore thev procured cocoa nuts and the cabbage of the cocoa tree, which is crisp and juicy ; this, when eaten raw, tastes like a chestnut ; bur, when boiled, has a more agreeable flavour than the parsnip. It was found to be excellent when boiled with porta- ble soup and oatmeal. They likewise gathered some plumbs, which tasted like those of the West Indies, which are called Jamaica plumbs ; and by this supply of vegetables, they had soon reason to rejoice in the blessing of returning health. They left this cove on the 7th of Septemlier, and anchored on the «ame day almost close to a grove of cocoa nut trees, where they supplied themselves with the fruit and the cabbage in very great abundance ; and called the place Carteret's Harbour, which being formed by the main and two islands, one of them was named Leigh's Island, and the other Cocoa nut Island. On the 9th of September the anchor was weighed, and wind and current being both contrary, they steered round the coast into a channel between two islands, which channel was divided by an bAPTAIN CARTERET. 205 pther island, to which Captain Carteret gave the name of the Duke of York's Island, and near which are several smaller ones. To the south of the largest are three hills of singular form, which were called the Mother and Daughters, one of which was supposed to be a volcano, from the large clouds of smoke seen issuing from it. A point they called Cape Palliser, lies to the east of these hills, and Cape Stephens to the west ; north of which last lies an island, which took the name of the Isle of Man. Having brought-to for the night, they sailed next morning, when some of the Indians put off in canoes toward the ship ; but the wind being fair and blowing fresh, it was not thought proper to wait for them. Steering north-west by west, they lost sight of New Britain on the 11th, and it being now found that what had been taken for a bay was a strait, it was called St. George's Channel, and the island on the north of it received the name of New Ireland. In the evening they discovered a large island, well clothed with \erdure, which was denomin-ited Sandwich Island ; ofF this island the ship lay great part of the night, during winch time a per- petual noise was heard, resembh'ng the sound of a drum. When they had almost cleared the strait, the weather falling calm, a number of canoes approached the ship, and, though they could not be prevailed on to go on board, exchanged some little matters with the crew, receiving nails and bits of iron, which they preferred to everything e!.se that was oflfered. Though the canoes of these people were formed out of single trees, they were between 80 and 100 feet in length. The natives are negroes, i.nd their hair is of the woolly kind, but they have neither thick lips nor flat noses. They wore shell-work on their legs and arms, but were otherwise naked, except that their hair and beards were powdered with while powder, and a feather vvas stuck info the head above the ear. Their arms consisted of a long stick and a spear ; and it was observed, that they had fishing-nets and cordage They now sailed west, and coming in sight of the south-west point of the island, it was called Cape Byron ; near which is an island ofconsidera- ble extent, which received the name of New Hanover. The strait they had now passed was called Byron's Strait ; one of the largest islands they had seen, Byron's Island ; and the south-west point of New Hanover, Queen Charlotte's Foreland. On the following day they saw several ^mall islands, which received the name of the Duke of Portland's Islands. When they had completely navigated St. George's Channel, the whole length of which is about 100 leagues, they sailed a westward course, and on the 14th of September discovered several islands. The next morn- ing some hundreds of the natives came off in canoes toward the ship, and were invited on board by every token of friendship and good will ; not- withstanding which, when they catne within reach, they threw several lances at the seamen on the deck. A great gun and several muskets were now fired at them, by which some were killed or wounded, on which they rowed toward the shore ; and, after they had got to a distance, a shot was fired so as to fall beyond them, to convince them that they were not out of the reach of the guns. These people were almost negroes, witK woolly hair, which they powdered ; and they went naked, except the orna- ments of shells round their arms and legs. Captain Carteret now coasted along the islands, to which he gave the general name of the Admiralty Islands. He describes them as having a most enchanting appearance, being covered with woods, groves of cocoa nut trees, and the houses of the natives. The largest of these islands is iS 206 VdYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. computed *o be above fifty miles in length : and he supposes that thejr produce many valuable articles, particularly spices. They discovered two small verdant islands on the 19th, which were called Dufour's Island and Matty's Island, the inhabitants of which last ran alon^ the const with lights during the night. They had sight of two other small islands on the 24th, which were called Stephens's Islands, and which abounded with beautiful trees. On the evening of the 2.5ih they had sight of three islands, the natives of which came off in canoes, and went on board the ship. They barter- ed cocoa nuts for some bits of iron, with which metal they did not seem unacquainted, and appeared extravagantly fond of it. They called it parram, and intimated, that a ship sonnelimes touched at their islands. These people were of the copper colour, and had fine black hair ; but their beards were very small, as they were continually plucking the hair from their faces. Ttieir teeth wt,re even and white, and their countenances agreeable; their activity was such, that they ran to the mast-head even quicker than the seamen. They ate and drank anything that was given them ; and had not the least degree of reserve in their behaviour. Their dress consisted only of a piece of fine matting round the waist. As the current carried the ship at a great rate, tlie captain had no opportunity of landing, though the Indians oflfered that some of their people should re- main on hoard, as a security for the safe return of such of the seamen as micrht be sent on shore. One of the Indians, on finding that none of the crew were to land, absolutely refused to leave the ship, and was therefore carried to the Island of Celebes, where he died. This man was named Joseph Freewill, and the largest of the islands was called Freewill Island ; but the natives called it Pegan ; and the names of the other two are Onato and Onello. On the evening of the 28th discovered an island from the mast-head ; but neither visited nor gave name to it. On the 12lh of October saw a small island, which was nam.ed Current Island, from the great strength of the southerly current ; and on the following day discovered two more small islands, which were called St. Andrew's Islands. On the 26th they had sight of land, which, on the day following, they knew to be the Island of Mindanao, and coasted the south-east part of it, in search of a bay described in Dampier's Voyages, but could not find it. On the 14th of November, 1767, they reached the Strait of Macassar, situate between the Islands of Borneo and Celebes, to a point of which latter island they gave the name of Hummock Point. On the 27th crossed the equinoctial line, and got into southern latitude, at which time they found the current setting against them, and the torna- does became violent. The crew was now diminishing by death, and weakened daily by sickness, so that there were hardly hands sufficient to navigate the vessel. On the 3d of December saw the islands called the Little Pater-nosters. which lie something more than two degrees south of the line ; but it was out of their power to land anywhere for refresh- ment, as the winds and currents were contrary. Not a man on board was now free from the scurvy ; and when it was imagined that nothing could have aggravated their distress, they were attacked by a pirate in the mid- dle of the night of the 10th of December. It was so very dark that they could not see their enemy, who attacked them with swivel-guns and small arms ; but they returned the salute so warmly, that the pirate was sunk, and all her crew perished, after having wounded two persons on board the Swallow, and done some very trifling damage to the ship. CAffAIN 6ARTERET. 207 By the 12th of this month they had lost thirteen of the crew, and the death of thirty others was hourly dreaded. At this time, too, the wester- ly monsoon was set in, so that it was impossible to reach Batavia ; and as they must speedily make some land, or inevitably perish, it was re- solved to attempt getting to Macassar, a Dutch settlement on the Island of Celebes. On the 13th they saw several trees floating, and birds sit- ting on them, and two days afterward came to an anchor, at little more than a league from Macassar. Late that night, the governor sent a Dutchman on board the Swallow, who was greatly alarmed to find that she was an English man-of-war, no such vessel having ever ancliored there before ; and so apprehensive of danger was he, as not to venture to enter the cabin. Very early the next day the captain sent a letter to the governor, requestino- permission to buy provisions, and asking shelter for the shipj till the proper season returned for sailing to the westward. Soon after an answer came, intimating, that the ship should instantly depart from the port, without coming any nearer to the town ; that she should not anchor on any part of the coast, and that the captain should not permit any of his people to land on any place that was under the governor's jurisdiction. As the most forcible reply to this, the captain showed his dying men to the bearers, and pleaded the urgent necessity of the case. They could not but see and feel the propriety of granting refreshments and shelter to persons in such a situation, but still said their orders were absolute, and must be obeyed. Provoked at this treat.nent, the captain declared he would anchor close to the town ; and if they then refused him neces- saries, that he would run the ship aground, and himself and crew would sell their lives as dearly as possible. Alarmed at this declaration, thev begged the captain to remain in his present station till the governor should give farther orders. After several disputes, they sailed early on the 20th of December, and anchored in the road of Bonthain, a neighbouring port, on the following day. On the 18th of January a letter from Macassar informed Captain Carteret that the Dolphin, his consort, had arrived at Batavia. Having taken in wood and water, they sailed hence on the 22d of May, and on the 2d of June they had sight of the land of Java — on the follow- ing day coming to an anchor in the road of Batavia. On the 18th the captain learned that orders had been given for repairing the ship at Onrust, wbither a pilot attended her, and where she came to an anchor on the 22d of June ; but as the wharfs were pre-engaged by other ships, the repairs did not commence till the 24th of^ July. Captain Carteret having engaged some English seamen, sailed from Onrust on the 15th of September ; and on the 23d of November came to an anchor in Table Bay, in the Cape of Good Hope. The captain having received numberless civdities from the governor and other gen- tlemen of this place, sailed on the 6th of January ; and on the 20th anchored off the Island of St. Helena, from whence he again sailed on the 24th. On the 20th of this month a ship, which had been seen the preceding day far to the leeward, but had out-sailed the Swallow in the night, tacked and stood toward her. A boat was sent on board, in which was a young officer, who. by many artful questions, endeavoured to learn from Cap- tain Carteret all the most important particulars of his voyage ; and this piece of finesse was aggravated, by lis inventing a tale to disguise thos6 208 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. of his own voyage ; for the vessel he had jiisl left was no other than that of M. Bougainville, which was then returning from a voyage round the world. Captain Carteret learned this circumstance afterward from the lieutenant ; for the boat's crew, which had brought ths French officer on board, had discovered every secret to one of the English crew who spoke French. (Japtain Carteret, however, kept his own secret so well, that Bougainville was not at all the wiser for the time he had lost in the negotiation of this ilhbprul business. Our adventurers had sight of the western islands on the 7ih of March, 1769, and came to an anchor at Spithead on the 20th of the same month without meeting with anything farther worth recording. MONS. DE BOUGAINVILLE.— 1766-69. A SETTLEMENT having been commenced by the French on Falkland's Islands, in the monlii of February, 1704, the Spaniards demanded them as an appendage to the continent of South America ; and France having allowed the propriety of the demand, Mons. de Bougainville was ordered to yield possession of the islands to the Spaniards. On the 5th of December he sailed from the harbour of Brest, in the frigate La Boudeuse ; having on board the Prince of Nassau Seighen, three gentlennen vvho went as volunteers, eleven officers in commission, and warrant officers, seamen, soldiers, servants, and boys, to the number of 200. On the evening of the 29th of January they had sight of Rio-de-la- Plata, and on the morning of the .31st came to an anchor in the Bay o{ Montevideo, where the two Spanish ships, which were to take possession of Falkland's Islands, had been at anchor for some weeks. They went on shore above the colony of San Sacramento, and travelled over a prodigious e.xlent of country to Buenos Ayres, in which thero were no roads, and where the eve was their only guide. During this expedition, they slept in little hovels constructed with leather, while the tigers howled round them on every side. Mons. Bougainville particularly mentions the rnatmer and the danger of their passing the River St. Lucia, which is wide and deep, yet amazingly rapid ; being placed in a long nar- row canoe, one side of which was beyond all proportion higher than the other, a horse was fastened on each side the vessel, the master of which, pulling off all his clothes, got into it, and supporting the heads of the horses above the surface of the stream, drove ihem across in the best manner he was able, and, with some difficulty, they stemmed the rapidity of the torrent. They sailed with two Spanish ships on the 28th of Feb- ruary, 1767; and, on the 1st of April, Mons. Bougainville, in the name of the French king, surrendered the islands to Don Puente, the Spanish governor, who received it for his Most Catholic Majesty, with the cere- mony of hoisting the Spanish colours, and the firing of guns from the ships and on shore. Falkland's Islands lie in about 52 degrees south latitude, and 60 de- grees west lonj^itude. From the entrance of the Straits of Magellan, and from the coast of Patagonia, their distance is about 250 miles. The har- bours are larjre, and well defended by small islands, most happily dis- posed ; and even the smallest vessels may ride in safety in the creeks, while fresh water is easily to be obtaiiiod, as the small rivers which descend from the mountains discharge themselves into the sea. In the DE BOUGAINVILLE. 209 Spring and autumn there are slight hoar frosts, which, being changed to a kind of dew by the warmth of the sun, are rather favourable than pre- judicial to the vegetable productions. There is seldom any thunder or lightning, nor is the climate hot or cold in any extraordinary degree. Throughout the year the nights are, in general, starlight, serene, and fair; and, upon the whole, the climate is favourable to the constitution. The depth of the soil in the valleys is more than sutficient for the purposes of plowing. Under the first land is a layer of black earth, ten inches or more in depth ; under that again a yellow soil, beneath which are stones and slate ; but these stones are not found on the little adjacent islands. Wild vegetables in abundance are found, and used as antiscorbutics, par- ticularly water cresses, sorrel, wild parsley, a kind of maiden-hair, and a species of celery. Sea lions and seals are the only amphibious animals found in these parts ; but there are great varieties of fish on the coasts, scarce any of which are known in Europe. It sometimes happens that the whales, getting too near the shore, are stranded in the bays, where their remains have been seen. The only quadruped is of a species between the fox and the wolf, and our author, therefore, calls him the wolf-fo.x ; the tail of this animal is more bushy than that of the wolf, and he lives in a kennel which he digs in the groimd, on the downs, by the sea-side. At one time of the year the wolf-fox is so lean as to appear almost starved, from whence it is imagined that he fasts for a considerable time ; he is about as large as a sheep dog, and barks very much like one, only that his yelp is not so loud. The coasts produce land and water fowls in incre- dible numbers, many of which are the prey of falcons, hawks, eagles, and owls ; while the eggs and the young birds are destroyed by the wolf-fox. The smaller fish are destroyed by the whales, the amphibious animals, and the voracious birds, some of which are constantly flying close over the surl'ace of the waters, while others perch themselves on the rocks to watch the event. After waiting at these islands till the 2d of June, 1767, in expectation of the Etoile store-ship fiorn Europe, and finding she did not arrive, Mons. Bougainville considered, that as his vessel had only two months' provi- sions on board, it would be rashness to attempt crossing the great Pacific Ocean alone; he therefore resolved to steer to Rio Janeiro, at which place he had appointed the Etoile to join him, in case any unforeseen acci- dent should prevent her reacliing Falkland's Islands before he left the harbour of that place. They had fine weather from the 2^1 till the 20th of June, on which day they had sight of the mountains on the main land of Brazil, and entered Rio Janeiro the day following. At the same time a canoe was despatched from the captain of the Etoile, to inform Mons. Bougainville of the safe arrival of that vessel, which now lay in the port ; and, on the 14th of July, 1767, the anchors of the Bou- deuso and Etoile were weighed ; but, as the wind abated soon afterward, they were obliged again to bring-to, before they could get out of the har- bour. They sailed, however, on the following day ; and in the niijht of the 19th the main-top-sail of the Boudeuse was carried away by the violence of the wind. The vessels sailed into the Rio-de-la-Plata, and were within sisht of the Maldonados on the 29th ; early in the morning of the 3 1st they had a view of the Isle of Lobos, and before night came to an anchor \n the Bay of Montevideo. As it was necessary tliat Mons. Bougainville should remain in his present station till the equinox was passed, his first care 18* 210 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. was to build an hospital for the sick, and to take lodgings at Montevideo. This heing done, lie repaired to Bueuos AyrRs, in order to hasten the provision of such necessaries as lie wanted, for which he was to pay the same price as the King of Spain, usually gave for the same commodities. Early on the morning of the 14th of November, 1767, they sailed from Montevideo, with a fane gale of wind at north, being in sight of land till the evening. On the 16th, and ihe five following days, the sea ran high and the wiTid was contrary. The 2d of December they had sight of Cape Virgins, about which time they made ;dl the sail possible, as the wind was in thoir favour. Thev now saw a number of albatrosses and petrels, the last of which Mons. Bougainville says are a sign of bad weather, whenever they are seen. On the 3d of December, the wind blowing favourable for a short time, they made their best efforts to reach the entrance of the Straits of Magel- lan ; and Mons. BongHinvillb was seven weeks and three days in passing through it, the whole' length of which, from Cape Virgin Mary to Cap'i Pillar, he computes at about 340 miles. On the 21st of March a tunny fish was taken, in the belly of which were a number of small fish, of such kinds as are known not to swim far ought to sea ; whence it was concluded, that land could not be at any great distance ; and on the following day this conjecture appeared to well founded, for four very sinall islands were then discovered ; but as these were too much to windward, they held on their way, steering for another island, which was almoot right ahead As the vessels advanced toward the latter, it w:is observed to abound with cocoa nut trees ; these grew on phiis of grass, strewed with an abundance of beautiful flowers; and the rest of the island was cloihed with trees of various kinds ; but the sea running high, and no harbour being discovered in which our voyagers might hope for protection from the fury of its waves, they were prevented from landing; when they had coasted the island for about two miles, thev had sight of three men, who advanced hastily toward the shore. They at first imagined thai these were part of the crew of some European ship, which had been wrecked on the coast ; and, impressed with this idta, were desirous to give the wished-for relief; but discovered their conjecture ill founded, for the people retired to the woods, from whence, in a short time, issued a number of them, supposed to be near twenty, with long staves in their hands, which they held up with an air of defiance. This done, they retreated to the woods, in which, by the help of glasses, their habitations were plainly seen. These islanders were of a copper comple.\ion, and very tall. During the night between the 22d and 23d they had much rain, ac- companied with violent thunder, while the wind blew almost a tempest. At daydawn land was discovered, which appeared to be a regular level, sufficiently clothed with verdure. Night advanced before any proper place was found for the boats to land, nor were they more successful in the morning; wherefore they held on their course, Mons. Bougainville having called the place Harp Island. In the evening on which it was discovered, they had sight of other land, at the distance of something more than twenty miles, which had the appearance of being, what it after- ward was foiind to be, a cluster of islands, eleven of which were seen, and received the name of the Dangerous Archipelago. A sleep mountain, which appeared to be encompassed by the sea, was discovered on the 2d of April, and received the name of the Boudoir, or Boudeuse Peak, from that of Mons. Bougainville's ship. Bearing to the DE BOUGAINVILLE. 211 northward of this peak, they had sight of land, which extended farther than the eye could reach. While standing toward the i-and, a boat was seen coming from the offing, which soon afterward crossed ahead of the ship and joined a number of other boats, which had assembled from various parts of the ;sland. This assemblage of boats was preceded by one which was rowed by twelve Indians, quite naked, who advanced toward the side of the ship, and held up some bo'ighs of the banana tree. In a sliort time upward of 100 boats surrounded the ships, laden with bananas, cocoa nuts, and various other kinds of fruit, receiving in exchange a number of toys. In order to carry on tiiis traliic, the voyagers held up such articles as they meant to give for the fruit, and when the natives were satisfied with the quantity otfered, it was let down by the ship's side in a net or basket, and the Indians having taken it out, returned their commodities by the same conveyance ; but sometimes the basket was lowered empty, and the natives put their effects in it before they had received the European goods, without seeming to harbour the least dis- trust or jealousy of those with whom thev dealt. As Mons. Bougainville coasted the island, he was charmed with the appearance of a noble cascade, which, falling immediately from the sum- mit of a mountain into the sea, produced a most elegant effect. On the shores, very near to the fall of this cascade, was a little town, and the coast appeared to be free from breakers. It was the wish of our adven- turers to have cast their anchor within view of such an enchanting pros- pect ; but, after repeated soundmgs, they found that the bottom consisted only of rocks, and they were, therefore, under a necessity of seeking another anchoring place ; and returned to the bay observed on first dis- toverina land, where he hoped to find a convenient anchoring place, and where, after different soundings, the ships were at length safely moored. The natives now put off in their boats, and surrounded the ships ia greater numbers than they had yet done, eAhibiting many tokens of regard, and perpetually crying out Taio, which was afterward found to signify friend. The strangers were much pleased with some nails and toys which the officers and sailors gave them. These boats were crowded with women, whose beauty of face was at least equal to th.it of the ladies of Europe, and their symmetry of body much superior. The commodore and some of his officers now went on shore to take a view of the watering place, and were no sooner landed, than the natives flocked around in prodigious numbers, regarding them with looks of in- expressible curiosity ; some boliler than the rest, came and touched the French, and put aside their clothes, to find if they were formed like them- selves. A person, who appeared to be of authority, took Mons. Bougain- ville's party to his house, where they found an old man, the father of the chief, and several women. These last paid their compliments to the strangers by placing their hands on their breasts, and frequently repeat- ing the word Taio. The old man was a truly venerable figure, whose long white beard and hair added dignity to his person, which was ex- ceedingly graceful and well formed. He had none of the decrepitude of age. no wrinkles on his face, and his body was nervous and fleshy. The house of the chief was about twenty feet in width, eighty in length, and covered with thatch, from which hung a cylinder, above a yard long, formed of the twigs of the ozier, and adorned with black feathers. Having directed his guests to seat themselves on a grass-plot in front of his house, lie present©! them with a collation, consisting of broiled fish, water, and 212 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. fruit While regaling themselves he produced two collars, formed of oziers, and adorned with sliark's teeth and black feathers. These col- lars, which resembled the prodigious large .utis worn by the French in the reio-n of Francis I., were put on the necks of Mons. Bougainville and a aentleman of his party. The chief having likewise presented our author wTth some pieces of cloth, the French were about to take their leave of this hospitable Indian, when one of them found that his pocket had been picked of his pistol ; on which a complaint was made to the chief, who immediately reprimanded several of his household, and would have searched them all ; but this the commodore would not permit, contenting himself wiih intimating to the chief, that the weapon which had been stolen would kill the thief The chief went on board Mons. Bougainville's ship the following day, and took with him a present of some fowls and a hog ; he likewise gave a full proof of the integrity of his heart, by returning the stolen pistol. His name it appeared was Ereti ; he remained on board several hours, and then went on shore with Mons. Bougainville, who by this time had made the necessary preparations for landing the sick and filling the water casks. Ereti complimented Mons. Bougainville with the use of a large build- ing, erected on the side of the rivulet for the purpose of laying up the Indian boats, which were, at the command of the chief, instantly removed. Under this roof tents were put up for the accommodation of the sick, and other tents for various uses. A sufficient number of muskets were carried on shore to arm thirty marines, all the workmen, and even the invalids, in case of necessity. Mons. Bougainville passed the first night on shore in company with Ereti, who added his supper to that of the commodore, invited a few select friends to partake of the repast, and gave orders that a crowd of Indians, whose curiosity had brought them to the spot, should be dispersed. He then desired to see some tire-works, which he beheld with a ni Ature of pleasure and astonishment. The camp was completed on the following day, and the building entire- ly enclosed, except at one entrance, where a guard was constantly stationed. None of the Indians were admitted into this building but Ereti and his friends of both se.xes. A crowd of people were constant- ly about the place, but they made way for any one who had permission to enter, on ihe motion of a small stick which a Frenchman held in his hand. To this place the natives assembled from all quarters, bringing poultry, hogs, fish, fruit, and cloth ; in exchange for which they received buttons, beads, tools, nails, and trinkets of various kinds, on which they appeared to set a high value. The article of thieving excepted, every other intercourse between the French and Indians w-as carried on in the most harmonious manner. The seamen made several incursions into the island, unarmed, sometimes in small parties, and sometimes singly ; when the natives invited them into their houses, gave them provisions, and presented the young damsels as wives. Soon after the camp was formed, the commodore was visited on board the ship by Toutaa, the chief of a district near that of Ereti, a very tak man, and admirably well made, who was attended by several others, hard- ly one of whom was less than si.v feet in height. Toutaa brought with him cloth, hogs, fowls, and fruit, which he presented to Mons. Bougain ville, vvho complimented him with some silk stuffs, trinkets, nails, &c. The chief invited Bougainville to his house, where, in the midst of a largo assembly, he presented hiiu with a fine young girl, whom the conjmodorft ->«, DE BOUGAINVILLE. 213 conjectures to have been one of his wives, and the musicians instantly begHD the bridal hymn. Early in the morning of the 12in, the cable of the BouJeuse parting, that ship ran foul of the Etoile, and at this unfortunate juncture news arrived that three of the Indians had been either killed or wounded in their huts ; and that, m consequence of this unhappy circumstance, a general terror had seized the inhabitants. The women, children, and old men, had fled up the country, taking their effects with them, and even carry- ing off the bodies of the deceased. The commodore, on receiving this intelligence, went on shore, and selecting four marines, on whom rested the suspicion of havii;g perpetrated this foul deed, he ordered them to be put into irons in the presence of Ereti ; but apprehensive that the natives might revenge their mjuries, he spent a considerable part of the night at the camp, and gave orders for a reinforcement of the guards. After ten at night the wind blew violently, the sea swelled to an enormous heicrht, the rain descended in torrents, and tiie whole scene was tempestuous in a high degree. He went on board soon after midnight, when a violent squall of wind was driving the ships toward the shore. Providentially the storm was soon over, and a breeze from the shore prevented the vessels being stranded. Soon after daylight it was observed that the camp was totally destitute of its usual visiters ; not an Indian was to be seen near it, nor even a single boat sailing on the river. The natives had quitted their houses, and the whole country appeared to be depopulated. The Prince of Nas- sau now went on shore with a small party, and, at about three miles from the camp, found Ereti, with a considerable number of his subjects. When the chief recollected the prince, he advanced toward him with a counte- nance expressive of hope and terror. Many women were now with him, who, dropping on their knees at the feet of the prince, kissed his hands, and, bathed in tears, exclaimed, Taio male ! You are our friends, and you kill us ! The prince succeeded in his endeavours to inspire them with fresh confidence ; and Mons. Bougainville had the pleasure of observing, from on board, by the help of his glasses, that the natives hastened to the camp, carrying with them fowls, fruits, &c., so that there could be no doubt but that peace was re-established. He instantly left the ship, and taking with him a quantity of silk stuffs and a variety of other articles, he presented them to the principal persons, intimating how unhappy he was on account of the misfortune which had happened, and assuring them, that the perpetrators of so foul a deed should not escape unpunished. The grateful Indians caressed the commodore, the natives in general were happy that peace was restored, and the market soon became more crowd- ed than ever ; so that in two days only more refreshments were brought in than had been before, and the whole place had the appearance of a fair. The Indians now requested to see some muskets fired, but were not a little alarmed, when they found that the animals fired at were instantly killed. Soon after dawn on the 15th, when the Indians observed their visiters makinof preparations for their departure, Ereti came hastily on board in the first boat that was ready. He clasped in his arms, embraced, and wept over those new-made acquaintances whom he was about to part with for ever. This scene was scarcely ended, when a larger boat, in which were the wives of this generous chief, came alongside the ship, laden with a variety of refreshments. This vessel likewise brought off the Indian 514 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. who, on their first arrival, had slept on board the Etoile. This man wa« called Aotourou. Ereti presented him to Mons. Bougainville, intimating his determined resolution to sail with the strangers, and entreating per- mission that he might do so. This request being complied with, Ereti presented him to the officers respectively, saying, that he trusted a well- beloved friend to the care and protection of friends equally beloved. The chief, having accepted some presents, returned to the boat, in which were a number of wee))ing beauties. With him went Aotourou, to take a melancholy leave of a lovely damsel, the dear object of his regard. He took three pearls from h's ears, which he delivered as a love-token to the desponding beauty ; embraced her affectionately, tore himself from her arms, and left it to time and tears to restore her serenity of mind. Otaheite produces rich pearls, which are worn by the women and chil- dren ; but these were secreted almost as soon as the French landed, and were seen no more during their stay. A sort of castanets, instruments used by the Indwn dancers, are formed out of the shells of the pearl oys- ters. The only quadrupeds seen on the island were hogs, small but handsome dogs, and rats. Of winged animals there are purroquets of exquisite beauty, the feathers of which are red and blue, most happily blended ; pigeons, rather larger than ours, of a deep blue colour, and most delicate taste ; and common domestic poultry, differing in no respect from those of Europe. The hogs and fowls feed on plantains only, so that the purity of their food must ensure the goodness of their meat. Bougain- ville obtained, by his traffic with the natives, about 140 hogs and more than 800 fowls ; and he might have procured much larger numbers, if his stay had been longer. No venomous animals vi^ere seen on this island, nor any of those noxious insects which are common to, and are the great- est curse of, hot climates. The natives are of two distinct tribes, having no personal resemblance, yet practising the same customs, associating together in the most friendly manner, and conversing in the same dialect. The first race of these people are much taller, larger, and better proportioned than the other. Few of these are less than six .^eet high. The other tribe are about the middle stature, have almost the features and complexion of mulattoes, and rough, curled hair, as strong as the bristles of a hog. Aotourou vvas of this tribe, and the son of one of the chiefs of the island. Both tribes shave the upper part of the face, permitting the beard on the chin to grow, and a whisker on each lip. Some bind the hair on the top of the head, while others cut it short, but all rub the oil of the cocoa nut into the hair and beard. They permit all their nails to grow to a great length, except that of the middle finger of the right hand. Among these people one cripple only was seen ; and it was supposed that he got his hurt by a fall. VVhen an inhabitant of Oiaheite dies, his body is deposited on a kind of bier, phced under a shed, to whii-h the women resort daily, and anoint the corpse with the oil of the cocoa nut. In these places they are left till all the flesh is wasted from the bones, and then the skeleton is con- veyed to the hui of his relations, where a person, who appears to have great authority, attends, and being dressed in a habit peculiar to the oc- casion, he performs some solemn ceremonies : but how long the skeletons are kept in the houses does not appear. Bougainville endeavoured to learn of Aotourou the religious ceremonies of his countrymen ; and if they mutually understood each other, it will appear that the people of Otaheite are superstitious in a high degree ; that the supreme authority IS vested m the priests ; that their principal Deity is called E«i-t-Era, DE BOUGAINVILLE. 215 that is, King of Light, or of the Sun ; besides whom they acknowledge a number of inferior divinities, some of whom pioduce evil, and others good ; that the general name of these ministering spirits is Eatoua ; anrf. that the natives suppose two of these divinities attend each affair of con sequence in human hfe, determining its fate either advantageously oi otherwise. The principal people on the island appear to have many wives ; and our authors thinks polygamy is common among them all. The rich are chief ly distinguished from the poor by keeping a greater number of the fail sex ; for universal love is the characteristic of the inhabitants of Olaheite. Otaheitans are ingenious in the construction of their fishing tackle, tha hooks of which are of mother-of-pearl, and wrought as nicely as if with European tools. With threads drawn from the American aloe they form their nets, which are made like those of France and other nations of Europe. Their houses, too, are exceedingly well built, and the palm leaves, with which they are thatched, are laid on with great skill and taste. Their boats are of two kinds ; one very large, hollowed out of huge trees, and finished with much taste, parts of other trees being added as ornaments ; the other small, and of much ruder construction. In order to go from one island to another, they fix beams of wood from the starboard side of one vessel to the larboard of the oiher, leaving an inter- mediate space of something more than a yard ; and over the stern of both the boats they erect a kind of hut, lightly built, and covered with reeds, which serves as a repository for their provisions, and a shelter against the inclemency of the weather. The boats thus lashed together never overset, and are, therefore, much in use among the people of superior rank ; the sails of these vessels are nearly square, and consist of mats, stretched out by means of pieces of cane. Aolourou informed the commodore, that an English ship had arrived at Olaheite about eight months before the French touched at that island. This was the vessel commanded by Captain Wallis ; and he ascrihes tha knowledge of iron, which was observed among the natives, to this visit of the English, especially as they call it Aoun, which is not very unlike our word iron. Moos. Bougainville now departed from Otahf ite, and on the morning of the 16th of April, 1768, discovered what he thought to be three other islands, but it was afterward found to be only one. In the beginning of May three islands were discovered at the distance of ten or twelve Icacrues to the north-west. The commodore had given directions to steer between them, when a boat, with five Indians, was observed coming off toward the ship. She advanced very near, but, though evervsigu of friendly invitation was made, not one of them would venture on board. They had no kind of clothing but a bandage round the waist ; and as they could not be prevailed on to come u[i the ship's side Aotourou stripped himself, leaving on nothing more than what they wore, and addressed them in the language of Olaheite ; but they under- stood not a word of what he said. On the morning of iheiith they dis- covered a most beautiful island, consisting of alternate mountains and valleys, clothed with the richest verdure, and finely shadowed by the spreading branches of the cocoa nut and a variety of oilier trees. Near the westernmost point of this island is a ledge of rocks, and the sea breaks with violence on many parts of the coast, so that it would be difficult to land, except in very few places. On the following day another island was seen to the westward of the ship's course, in the neighbourhood of which were two smaller islands ; to these islands the commodore gave tha 216 VOYAGES ROUND TH£ WORLD. general iiamr. of Archipelago of the Navigators. On lllh auothor island ^^as discovered, which receivei Forlorn Hope ; but for what reason does not appear r orlorn nope ; dui lui wuni. it^no^.i — ^^ — -ii - ■ „ „f The sinpi nU steered a westerly course, and early on the morning of the 22d two islands were discovered, one of which received the name of Aurora, from the early hour on which it was first seen and the other thHt of Whitsunt.de Isle, from the day which gave birth to its being so named. In the afternoon mountainous lands, at thirty miles distance, Mere ssen, appearing, as it were, over and beyond the Island of Aurora. On the 23d it was discovered that this was a separate island ; the ap- pearance beincr loftv, its descent steep, and the whole clothed with trees. Bou^TainviUc gives the following description of the natives of this island, whic'h he called the Island of Lepers, from observing, that many of the inhabitants were afflicted with the leprosy : Some of ihem are mulattoes, and others perfect negroes ; l^eir hair woolly, and generally b ack, but in eome instances of a very light brown, approaching to a yellow. Pew women were seen among them, but those few were equally disagreeable with the men, who are represented as low m stature, ill-favoured, and disproMortionablv made. . i On the 23d more land was discovered, which, on the 2oth, was observed to enclose almost all the horizon, so that the ships were surrounded m one extensive gulf, while the coast of the newly discovered country contained many" other gulfs, or large inlets, across which several boats were observed rowing, from one shore to the other. The night of the S.'Jth was spent in tacking; the number of isles now seen was so great that they could not be counted, nor could their termination be discerned. On the morning of the 27lh they again sailed, and in a few hours had sight of a fine pliintaiion of trees, between which there were regular walks, resembling those of ;ui European garden. Many of the natives were seen near this spot, and as an inlet was observed at no small dis- tance, the commodore ordered the boats to be hoisted out ; but they found that it was impracticable to land. They now quitted this great cluster of islands, which received the general name of Archipelago of the great Cyclades, which, it is conjectured, occupies no less than three degrees of latitude, and five of longitude. Mons. Bougainville says, that these islands are not the same that Quiros called Tierra Austral del Espiritu Santo ; but that Roggcwein saw the northern extremity of them, which be denominated Groningen and Thienhoven. On the night between the 4th and 5th of June some breakers were seen, at half a league's distance, by the light of the moot*. In the morn- ing it appeared to be a low, flat, sandy isle, abounding in birds, which re- ceived the name of the Shoal of Diana. A sand-bank was discovered on the 6th, on which the sea broke violently, and the tops of rocks were seen at intermediate spaces. On the lOih, before daybreak, au agreeable fra- grancy impregnated the air, announcing that land was near ; ana it was accordingly discovered before sunrise. This is described as a most delicious country, divided near the sea-coast into groves and plains, behind which the land rises, in the form of an amphitheatre, till the tops of the mountains are lost in the clouds. On the 18th not less than nine or ten islands were discovered, and on the 20th a still greater number. On the 25th high land was discovered, which appeared to terminate m a cape, which they doubled with a degree of transport that may be more easily conceived than described, as it was the point they had wished for a sight of, from a certainty that it would DE BOUGAINVILLE. 21'!' enable them to quit for ever the Archipelago of islands, amid which they had been so long in hourly danger of shipwreck or starving. This cape was called Cape Deliverance, and the name of the gulf of the Louisiade was given to a bay, of which the cape forms the easternmost point. July the 2d a cape was discovered, which was called Cape I'Averdi, on which were mountains of an astonishing height. On the 4lh other mountainous land was discovered, from which came off five or six In- dians, and, after lying on their oars some time, accepted some trifles which were thrown to them, exhibiting some cocoa nuts, aaying, bouca, boicca, oncllc .' and seemed greatly pleased when the French repeated them. They then intimated that they would fetch some cocoa nuts, but they had scarcely left the ship's side, when orie of them discharged an arrow, by which, however, no person was wounded. Two more islands were seen on the 5th, and, as the wood and water were expended, and disease reigning aboard, the commodore resolved to land here, and on the following afternoon the ships came to an anchor. Two huts were discovered on the bank of a rivulet, not far from the encampment, and a boat, near which were seen the remains of fires, some calcined shells, and the skeletons of some animals' heads, which were taken for those of the wild boar. Some fresh bananas were found, which proves that the natives had but lately left the place. An extraordinary incident occurred. A seaman, looking for shells, found a plate of lead buried in the sand, on which the following letters were very visible : HOR'D HERE ICK MAJESTY'S The mark of the nails with which the lead had been fastened appeared ; and it is plain, that the natives must have torn off the plate and broken it. This gave rise to a diligent search, and, at about six miles from the watering place, the very spot was found where some English ship had been before. In the afternoon of the 24th a favourable breeze enabled the ships to get out to sea. Bougainville remarks, that this country must be New Britain, and that the great bay must be the same which Dampier calls St. George's Bay ; but that he had the happiness to land on a part of it where his wants could be supplied by the inhabitants. On the 31st a number of Indian boats attacked the Etoile with a volley of stones and arrows ; but a single discharge of the musketry got rid of these troublesome companions. On the 4th of August two islands were seen, which are conjectured to be the same which Dampier distinguishes by the names of Matthias and Stormy, or Squally Island. On the 5th a third island was seen, and then the northern point of New Britain, which lies only 41 minutes south of the land. On the 7th a flat island was seen, covered with trees, abounding with cocoa nuts, and certainly well inhabited, as appeared from the great number of houses that were seen on the shore. Fishing boats in multitudes surrounding the island ; but the fishermen took no notice of the ships. This received the name of the Island of Anchorets. From this time till the end of the month innumerable small islands were observed every day; the boat having landed on two islands, which neither produced any fruits, nor appeared to be cultivated, and in- dicated no signs of being inhabited, the ship was on the point of return- ing, when an Indian rowed up to the ship's boat, without expressing the least sign of fear or astonishment. The Frenchmen intimated, that they wanted food and liquor ; on which he presented them with a kind of meal aad some water ; in return for which they gave him a looking-glass, a 19 218 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. nandkerchief, and some other trifles, which he received with indifTerence, and laughed at the donors. It was conjectured that this negro had de- serted from one of the adjacent islands which have been settled by the Dutch. The number of them were formerly seven, but they are now reduced to five by earthquakes. The crew of the Boudeuse took a turtle on this spot of not less than 200 weight. Early m the morning of the 31st our voyagers had sight of the Island of C'eram, which runs in a parallel rast and west, abounds in lofty moun- tains, and is partly cleared and partly in its original state. At midnight a number of lires attracted their attention to the Island of Boero, where there is a Dutch factory, at the entrance of the Gulf of Cajeli, which the French had sight of at daybreak. Their joy on this occasion is not to be expressed ; for at this time not half of the seamen were able to per- form any duty, and the scurvy had raged so violently, that no man on board was perfectly clear of it. What few provisions were on board were absolutely rotten, and stunk intolerably. The astonishment of Aotourou, at this first sight of an European set- tlement, may be more easily conceived than described. He regarded every object with an intenseness of curiosity scarcely to be satisfied ; but he was particularly charmed with the hospitality of the Dutch. He supposed everything freely given, as he did not see anything returned by way of barter. Bougainville says, he behaved sensibly with respect to the Dutch, to whom he intimated of the consequence he was in his own country, and that his present voyage was merely pleasurable, with friends whom he esteemed.. His constant practice was to imitate the manners of ti)e French, both in their visits and rural amusements. The knees of this Indian being distorted, he attributed to that circumstance his not being taken with the commodore on his first visit to the resident, and actually desired some of the seanaen to press their weight on his knees, to make them straight. They sailed on the 7th of September, and on the 13th the ships were surrounded with Indian boats, bringing parroquets, cockatoes, fowls, eggs, and bananas, which the natives sold for Dutch money, or exchanged for knives. These (leople were inhabitants of a considerable district on the mountains of Button, opiiosite the place where the ships lay at anchor. On this spot the land is cleared and cultivated, the properly of different persons being divided by ditches. Some of the fields are enclosed by hedges, and there are houses in these fields ; besides which there are several villages. Bv daylight, on the 19th, they were within about a league of the coast of Celebes, whi h in this p:trt is described as one of the finest countries in the world. Immense herds of cattle graze on the plains, which are adorned with groves, while the coast is one continued plantation of the cocoa nut tree. The plains are in most places cultivated and covered with houses, while the maintains behind them add dignity and ornament to the whole picture. On the morning of the 26ih the coast of Java ap- peared with the rising sun. Having come to anchor for the night, the ships sailed early in the morning of the 27th, and en the following night came to an anchor, in fear of having past the port of Batavia ; but having sight of that town on the morning, they sailed into, and soon anchored in the road, ha[)py to have, after so many toils, difficulties, and dangers, reached a spot which they conceived would soon put a period to all their misfortunes, by ensuring them a safe arrival in Europe. The ships sailed thence on the 16ih of October, 1763. and cleared the M. DE PAGES. 219 Straits of Sunda on the 19th, in the afternoon. By this time the crew were all perfectly recovered of the scurvy, but a few reniain<'d ill of the bloody-flux. On the 20lh the ships were in sight of the Isle of France, and on the 8th of November t'le Boudeuse anchored in the port of that island ; the Etoile, which bad been unavoidably left behind, an- choring in the same port on the following day. They sailed from this the 12ih of December, 1768, leaving the Etoile behind them, to undergo some necessary repairs. Without encountering any singular accident, they had sight of the (^ape of Good Hope on the 18th of January, and came to an anchor in Table Bay on the foliowing morning. Bougainville quitted this on the I7lh, anchored off St. Helena on the 4:th of February, where he remained till the 6th ; and on the 25th joined the Swallow, commanded by Captain Carteret. Nothing material happened from this time till they had sight of the Isle of Ushant, when a violent squall of wind had nearly blasted the hopes of the voyage. On the 15th the commodore bore away for St. Maloes, which he entered on the following day, after an absence of two years and four months from his native country ; during all which time he had buried only seven of his crew, a circumstance that will be deemed truly astonishing, when we reflect on the variety of dangers they had encountered and the amazing changes of climate they had experienced. M. DE PAGES.— 1767-71. M. DE Pages having found an opportunity of gratifying his predilec- tion for travelling, and of realizing some of the schemes he had formed, embarked at Rochfort, in 1766, for the Island of St. Domingo ; and after despatching his business there, sailed from Cape Francois, in a French vessel bound for New Orleans, on the last day of June, 1767. On the 28tli of July they anchored opposite to New Orleans, about thirty leagues from the mouth of the river. The harbour is large and commodious. The houses here are built of brick, and some of the public structures are extremely handsome. The complexion of the people is fair ; they are personally robust, and in character cheerful and manly. The pop ilation, however, is not verv considerable ; for many planters and merchants disperse themselves up the country, and only visit the capital during their intervals of industry and traffic. M. de Pages, having re- covered a little from his fatijiues, began to make inquiries respecting the practicability of travelling by lana to New Spain ; and learning that the last French settlement, named Nachitoches, was only seven leagues distant from the first Spanish port of Adaes, he resolved to undertake this perilous journey. At the distance of eighty leagues from the entrance of the Mississippi they arrived at the confluence of the Red River, up which they sailed, and bid adieu to the noble scenery which had so long charmed their sight. This stream was comparatively languid and mean ; the woods appeared dwarfish, and the soil ungenial. The pott of Adaes consists of about forty mean huts, constructed of stakes driven into the grourid. There is a kind of fort, called the Presidio ; and at a little distance stand a church and a convent of Franciscans. According to the best information M. de Pagescould receive, Mexico was distant no less than 5.50 leagues. Thus precluded from proceeding, unless he could form a kind of caravan, our rtaveller accidentally heard that the governor of the province, who was 1^20 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. recalled to Mexico, at that time lay ill, about fifty leagues distant, at a place called Naquadoch. This gentleman he resolved to join, and throw himself on his protection. On his arrival he soon recovered his health, and had the pleasure to meet with a kind reception from the governor. They set out on the 2d of November, being in all fifteen persons, with many mules and horses. In the province of Tegas, particularly on the banks of its rivers, grow noble forests of oaks and cypresses, which, singly viewed, have often a very picturesque appearance. Roebucks were seen in flocks ; and, unawed by man, every animal seemed to con- sider itself as the denizen and the master of the soil ; even the birds, which are naturally timid, perched on the backs of the mules. On the last day of November they arrived in safety at the seLilement of San Antonio, having travelled 250 leagues. On the 20th of January, 1768, they arrived at Sartille, 160 leagues distant from San Antonio. 1 nis is a pretty large and populous town, occupied both by Indians and Spaniards. The churches and squares are not inelegant, and the streets are broad and clean. A number of mer- chants have fi.Kcd their residence here, because it is the chief mart foi Indian productions. The Spaniards, under an affectation of generosity, are both illiberal and selfish ; in short, they have all the pride and state- liness of Castile, without the noble and generous qualities of the genuine Spaniard. Here, for the first time in his travels, our author met with excellent wheaten bread. The gardens too produce many of the Euro- pean fruits and vegetables ; and the climate seems to be one of the most delightful in the world. On the 10th of February they continued their journey ; and, as they were now entering on a country liberally supplied with all the neces- saries of life, they were relieved from the burthen of carrying their pro- visions. On the second day of his journey he arrived at the celebrated mines of Potosi, near which is a handsome, well-built town of the same name, surrounded by beautiful gardens. The streets are well laid out, the public buildings magnificent, and the people opulent. But the In- dians seemed grievously oppressed throughout the whole province ; and seem reluctantly to bear their yoke. The surrounding country is full of mineral riches, and still there is a great deal of real, though concealed, poverty ; for the facility with which money is acquired induce habits of dissipation, which lead to distress. Soon after leaving this place, our traveller ascended mountains of considerable elevation ; and for three days saw nothing but large com- modious villages, that intimated his approach to the capital, which he descried from the heights on the 2Sth of February, and the same day had the pleasure to enter Mexico. It is well known that this superb city stands in the centre of an extensive lake, connected with the main land by causeways, raised to a great height above the level of the water. The causeway by which our traveller entered the capital was at least 100 feet broad and three miles long. It rests on a series of arches, kept in excellent repair, which give a free passage to the briny waters of the lake. The city of Mexico is about six leagues in circumference, and is defended only by barriers in the form of turnpike gates. The streets ia general are broad, run in straight lines, and are adorned with elegant houses, three or four stories high. The public buildings are most mag- nificent ; and the walks, squares, and gardens are deUghtful. After staying here three weeks, in expectation of some baggage coming up, and finding that it was delayed by the illness of a person to whoss M. DE PAGES. 221 care it was intrusted, M. de Pages resolved rather to proceed without it, than lose the chance of the galleon's sailing from Acapulco. Accord- ingly he set out on the 28lh of March, with no oilier companion than two mules. His impatience to get to the end of his journey was so great, that he overlooked losses and inconveniences. Acapulco is a miserable little place, though dignified with the name of a city ; and, ,being surrounded with volcanic mountains, its atmosphere is constantly thick and unwholesome. The harbour, however, is safe, beautiful, and extensive : and being the ordinary port for the Manilla galleon, it derives an importance from this circumstance, which has rendered it famous over all the world. During the time that our traveller sojourned here, they had three slight shocks of an earthquake. At first he perceived the ground to tremble under him, and heard a noise like the rattling of a carriage over a rough pavement. Being then half asleep, he did not immediately guess the cause ; but he was soon completely awakened by the screams of women and children, who ran about the streets pouring •forth their prayers, and exclaming, in one voice, "Ave Maria! Ave Maria Santissima !" On the 2d of April, 1768, they set sail on their passage to Manilla. The ship was only of 500 tons burthen, and was so crowded as to present an idea of horrid confusion. Each common sailor was allowed a couple of servants ; consequently, the domestics were much more numerous than their masters ; and, being all without order and discipline, gave occasion to terrible uproar. Having reached the thirteenth degree of latitude, they stood to the south-west with a faint breeze. During the night they had frequent lightning, accompanied with loud claps of thun- der. Soon after, the wind freshening, the sky became clear, and the rate of their sailing was accelerated, with the finest weather and the most beautiful sea that could be conceived. Nothing particular occurred during the vovage for many days. On the 9th of June they discovered the high mountains of Guam, one of the Marian Isles, and came to an anchor the following day off that isknd, opposite a small fort. This fort is three leagues from the principal town, which is of some extent, and the ordinary residence of the governor. Having taken in fresh water and provisions, they put to sea again on the 15th of June. Hitherto their passage had been extremely favoura- ble, and they were now only 100 leagues from the Philippine Islands ; but here the sky became suddenly overcast, and the weather rough and tempestuous. On the 17lh the storm abated, when they found they had been carried greatly lo the northward of their course, as it was a month since they had been able to take an observation. After a dead calm, and another storm of five days' duration, at last they came in view of Capo Spiritu Santo ; and having still a very dangerous passage of 100 leagues to Manilla, it was determined to winter on the Isle of Samar, where they anchored in the spacious road of Palapa, formed by three small islands, on the 1st of August. Samar is blessed with such a fertile soil, that it rewards the industry of the husbandman at least forty-fold. Besides other grain, it produces a considerable quantity of rice. The common food, however, of the natives is potatoes, yams, and a root named gaby. Agreeably to the example of the Indians, our traveller lived entirely on roots, whose eaccharine taste is more pleasant, and their qualities more nutritious, than the uniform use of insipid boiled rice. At first, this kind of food seemed heavy and flatulent ; but soon became familiar to the stomach. He h^ii, 19- 222 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. likewise, plenty of pork for his consumption, and sometimes eggs ; be- sides a variety of delicious fruits, among which the cocoa nut bore i chose to embrace this opportuiiiiv of resuming his tiavels; and accordingly sailed from Mandla or. the 7ih of March, 1769, on board a small vessel bound for Batavia ; and, 'viiliout any remarkable occurrence, anchored in that road on the I5th of April. M. de Pages found munh entertainment in rambling about the streets of Batavia, each of which presents tho gay and pleasant effects of a beautiful promenade. On cither side is a regular row of houses, veneered with a sort of tessellated bricks. Along the sides of each hou>e, two or three steps from the ground, runs a terrace, which is separated from the adjoining building by benches, and covered with tents or booths, for the accommodation of the proprietor and his friends. Beneath this ter- race is a space six or seven feet vvide, paved with flag-stoties, which forms a path for foot passengers. Contiguous to this is a much laroer space, covered with tine sand and gravel for carriages ; and, last of all, appears a row of bushy evergreeris, cut in fan form, which lines each side of a canal of running water, about thirty yards wide. They set sat! on the 2d of August, ITBSi, and doubling Bantam, they entered the Straits of Sunda. The wind soon proving unfavourable, and provisions growing short, it was first proposed to put into Rajapour. on the main land : but the wind aftt^iward shifting to their wish, they held on their course for Bombay, and soon anchored off that ibiand. The ship having despatched hi^r business, our traveller continued his voyage in her to Surat, where they arrived on the 7th of September. This is a very large and beautiful road, but much exposed to winds, and too remote from the land to be commodious. M. de Pages proceeded, on the 6th of December, by the way of Bassan, to Salset, an island in the vicinity of Bombay, from which it is separated by a small chaimel. This 's a very pleasant spot, though the soil is not fertile. I'he blossoms ot various fruits and flowers perfume the air ; and at Pary, near the centre of the island, where our author took up his abode, no situation could be more delightfully rural. Here he formed an acquaintance with several Bramins, from whom he received, in many instances, much kindness and civility. Having made a considerable stay on this island, about the end of January, 1770, having learned that a French vessel had anchored at Surat, he was desirous to embrace this •pportunity of writing to his friends in Europe. Departing, therefore, from Salset, in five days he arrived at Danou, whence it was easy to have etters conveyed to Surat. As he returned by Bassan, he had a second opportunity of contemplating with admiration the simple, but civilized, manners of the natives. In the genius of the people, however, are cer- tain shades of difference, chiefly arising from the variety of religious opinions, or the diversity of origin. The Portuguese are vain and iiiso- jent ; the Mahometans, with all their simplicity, are prone to pride, and a haughty opinion of themselves : while the Gentoos, and particularly the Bramins, are unaffectedly simple, gentle, regular, and temperate. M. de Pages observes, that though all public otrices centre in the Bramins, they are peculiarly aftab'e and condescending, and appear to be perfectly unacquainted with the meaning of " the insolence of office," a phrase so well understood iri Europe. The difl'erent chambers of admi uistration, as well as the courts of justice, are open to the inspection of the public ; while those who preside in them are equally accessible to the lowest as the highest. On the 20th of April they set sail for Bassora, in company with as 224 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. English armed vessel, that protected them through the gulf which is much infested by pirates. In thirteen days they dropped anchor at Mascate, which Ues without the Straits of Ormus, and, consequently, is a favourable situation for trade. Hence it serves as an emporium for the commerce of India and Persia. M. de Pages took this opportunity of going ashore, where he met with a native of Ispahan, who acted as agent for French affairs in this city. The houses are miserably built, but the number of fine gardens gives the place a cheerful appearance High and almost inaccessible mountains surround it, and a handful of men may guard the access by land against a whole army. The iman of this kingdom affects to be the only genuine descendant of Mahomet. He possesses an extensive territory, and lives in great splendour in his capi- tal, about five days' journey from Mascate. Bnssora is subject, under 'he grand seignior, to the Bashaw of Bag- (3ad : who, however, possesses but a very limited authority, and finds it expedient to e.xercise much discretion in his conduct both to the Curds ftnd Arabians. The EngHsh possess the greatest part of the Bassora trade ; and as the Arabs, who compose the bulk of the inhabitants, are little civilized, and as the Turks might be inimical to their interests, they have had the address, under various pretexts, to get ."500 national troops stationed ashore ; and as their ships lie at anchor within gun-shot of the town, they are in a condition to overawe the inhabitants on any emergency that may render their interference requisite. In the e.tercise, however, of a most extensive commerce, the English have discovered the good policy of appearing open and liberal in their transactions with strangers, and, as merchants, are deservedly esteemed M. de Pages having waited on the French consul on the 25th of Jutie, was politely received by hitn. Learning that a caravan had set out for Aleppo only fifteen days before, he saw with regret the opportunity he had lost of crossing the desert, and feared lest he should be detained here for a long space before the departure of an other. His fears, however, were of no long duration. A caravan of Bedouins, or Arabian shepherds, on their way to Aleppo, were now approaching the town ; and having sent to inquire if any passengers were desirous to take the advantage of their protection, the Frwil'h consul obliginaly equipped M. de Pages for this expedition; who, having assumed the Turkish habit, and made his best Jickiiowledgments to ins beneficent countrymen, be departed, after being no more than three days in Bassora. • The wealth of an Arab consists in his flocks and his herds. His horses, and particularly his mares, are of great value ; and, as he is fond of horseman.shif). they are his greatest favourites. An Arabian horse feeds only once a day, and then moderately, and at the same time that he is one of the fleetest animals in the world, he is also one of the most ab- stemious. The camel, though less valued, is of no less consequence to his master. He serves to transport his family and property from one part of the desert to another, and besides is an article of traffic for grain and other necessaries of life. As the general aspect of the desert is that of a vast plain, bounded on all sides by the horizon, in vain does the roving eye of the traveller seek to rest on some intervening object ; atid, there- fore, after flitting over a dismal waste of gray sand and scorched bram- bles, it returns at last, languid and fatigued, to enjoy a little relaxation in a variety of herds and other Arabian property with wliich it is surrounded. A deep and mournful silence reigns over the dreary landscape ; neither beast.. bird, nor insec', is seen to diversify the sad uniformity of the scene. M. DE PAGES. 225 After three days' farther progress, toward evening, they descried about twelve Arabs with a number of camels. The chief of the caiavati, tempted perhaps by the sinaliness of the party, ordered his men to give chase ; and in their flight they dropped some linen, bottles, and clubs. This exploit was by no means agreeable to M. de Pages ; he reflected ou the probable consequences of it — he felt for its injustice. The night, however, passed without molestation, and next morning they resumed their journey ; but about noon, on a sudden, they saw a body of armed men riding full speed toward them. The Bedouins stopped their camels, and entered into a conference with a messenger, who came to treat with them on the part of the enemy. No agreement, however, could be made ; the Arab returned to his friends, and the people of the caravan flew to arms. The enemy advanced in order of battle, to the number of 500 men, while the force on our traveller's side consisted only of 150. The Be- douins, however, waited their approach with steadiness and resolution, shouting Alia ou Alia ! an invocation to God to witness the justice of their cause. A running fight soon commenced ; whde the Arabs, trust- ing to their numbers, seemed disposed to surround the caravan, and de- chned coming to close quarters. The engagement continued to be maintained in this indecisive manner till the approach of night, when the main body of the enemy, retiring to a considerable distance from the caravan, gave the musketeers an oppor- tunity of closing their ranks. On the side of the Bedouins, none were killed nor wounded ; while they boasted of having killed some men and camels belonging to the enemy. In a short time many fires were lighted up by the Bedouins, and they began to form themselves into circles, and to whisper to each other. Our traveller conceived that some secret enterprise was in agitation ; and in a short time they began to saddle their camels ; while his conductor gave him notice of the intended flight, and advised him to abandon the most weighty part of his provisions, and to stick fast to his diomedary. After riding with all their might three leagues, a party of seven persons, of v/hom M. de Pages was one, happening to be together, resolved to detach theinselv{-'s entirely from the scattered remains of the caravan ; and what became of the rest he never knew. By making a large circuit round the region they had just traversed, they resumed their former direction with- out seeing any more of their friends or enemies. After a short halt in the evenin^r, the Bedouins judged it necessary to proceed, and the following morning they discovered the banks of the Euphrates, on which stood a solitary building ; but suddenly observing a company of Arabs, they turn- ed the heads of their camels, and fled full speed. Next day having rested in some hollows, they contmued their journey along the sides of the hills as soon as it was dusk, from the dread of falling in with the natives. This caution proved extremely fortunate ; for next morning, having gained the first ridge, and looking down upon the plain, they saw it crowded with Arabian camps, and could not help congratulatmg them- . selves on their escape. Harassed by inarches and countermarches, by fear, fatigue, and want, our traveller had such a confusion of ideas, that he could not ascertain the situation of the place near which they were ; but thought it corres- ponded most with that of the ancient city of Damascus. This town is large and populous. The houses toward the streets make but an indifferent appearance ; hut have a handsome garden front. The city contains manufactures of different kinds, and the markets are 22S VOYAGES KOUND THE WORLD. elegant and well supplied. The district inhabited by the Christians is mean, and in every respect inferior to the other quarters of the town. The great trade and population of Damascus, as well as the high vene- ration it holds among the Mussulmen, originate from its bemg the place of rendezvous for the Mahometan pilgrims of Europe, and part of Syria, on their way to Mecca ; hence it has been dignified with the title of Mahomet's Heel This caravan is conducted by the Bashaw of Damascus, who receives a considerable sum from the Porte on this account, as well as to main- tain the mihtary force, and to keep certain castles in the desert in repair. At fixed stations the caravan of I):imascns is joined by the pilgrims from Bagdad and Cairo, who all arrive at Mecca, either at the solemnity of Courban Beyran, or Abraham's Sacrifice ; or at the end of Ramadan, corresponding to the Jewish passover. The Jesuits of Damascus were kind and attentive to M. de Pages to the last degree ; and in a city where the people are uncommonly cruel and ferocious, and which, properly speaking, does not contain one resident European, their hospitality was the more gratefully felt. At his departure, after passing nearly a week in Damascus, these good fathers furnished him with a guide to Baruth, on the borders of the Mediterranean. They arrived at Baruth about nine in the morning, when M. de Pag^s went to a convent of Capuchin friars, from whom he received a hearty welcome. Tlie superior of this convent gave our traveller all the infor- mation he wanted respecting his route to Quesrouan, a district of Leba- non, which he was inclined to visit; and after two day's stay at Baruth, in which city Christians and Mahometans live on friendly terms, he con- tinued his journey. The impregnable situation of the country of Quesrouan has naturally pointed it out as an asylum for all the professors of Christianity and Asia- tic Turkey ; and hence it has become the residence of many bishops, and the seat of a considerable number of convents for both sexes. Among the former'are the patriarch of the Greek church ; the patriarch of An- tioch, who presides over the sect of the Maronites ; and the patriarch of Armenia, who superintends several convents, under the rule of his own ritual. The people, in general, are addicted to religion ; vice and im- morality are little known among them. Though the women are not secluded from public view, chastity is so highly esteemed, that an un- married female, who happens to become pregnant, is sure to be sacrificed by the hands of her own relations ; and a family would consider itself as dishonoured, should the person who marries a daughter out of it be un- able to produce proofs of his bride's virginity. Desirous of seeing the manners of a people so little visited in their true and genuine colours, our traveller, having spent a few days at Jelton, set out in his route to Misra, a village lying at the foot of the highest mountain in Quesrouan. The country through which he passed was highly picturesque, and many spots were eminently beautiful. After ascending and descending several hills, studded with mulberry trees, and finely cultivated spots, he at last arrived at Mafra, an open village of considerable extent. Quitting this village, he directed his course again to Baruth, which he leached after an absence of ten days, which time he had spent in ex- ploring the mountains of Quesrouan. The friar of the Capuchin convent received him with cordiality, and informed him that a king's xebec, which had arrifed from France, on a cruise oflT the coast of Syria, was expected ?.a a few days to enter the port of Sidon, about eight leagues distant. On M. DE PAGES. * 227 .his information, M. de Pag6s immediately set out for tiiat port, and, on the 25th of August, waited on the French consul there, who received him with the most marked attention ; but he had the mortification to find that the xebec had already sailed for Candia. Disappointed in his views, he now resolved to proceed to Acre, where he expected frequent opportunities of sailing for France ; but it seems iiis fame as a traveller had preceded him, and the French consul, after many inquiries concern- ing his late expeditions, pressed him to stay with him a little longer, to recruit his health, which was considerably broken by fatigue. The con- sul's lady joined in the same request. The natives of these mountains are extremely disaffected to the Turks. They are sensible it is to their own bravery, and the inaccessible nature of their mountains, that they owe their happy independence. Tiie Druses are well affected toward the Christians in general ; but holding them- selves descended from a French ancestry, who are said to have taken refuge in this district after their expulsion from the Holy Land, they have more than a common regard for the natives of that country. The principles indeed which, according to their historians, actuated the sub- jects of the old man of the mountain, still influence the minds of some individuals. The industrious character of the natives displays itself in the cultivated state of their mountains, many parts of which present the face of a fine garden. Springs, judiciously directed, water their mulberry plantations, which constitute the wealth of the country. Such is the superior quality and high value of iVift silk raised here, that the farmer obtains from his mulberry tree, at little expense and labour, a comforta- ble subsistence for his family. M. de Pages now paid a visit to the town of Dairel-Kamar, situated on the banks of the Thamour, on the side of a mountain. The palaces or seraglios, belonging to the emirs of the reigning family, are fine build ings ; the churches are handsome, and constructed with good taste ; and the mansions of some of the sheiks and commandants have large and cotnmodious appartments ; but the generality of the buildings are mean The Druses do not exceed one-half of the inhabitants, while the remain der are Maronites, or Greek Christians. Some of the institutions among the Druses are very singular. A mountaineer is never seen without the walls of his cottage unarmed ; and, by the maxims of a law which cus- tom has established, a man has a right to repel force by force, and to redress his wrongs in the best manner he can ; and, therefore, whoever considers himself as insulted, despatches his antagonist the moment he finds an opportunity. This is certainly a deplorable laxity of govern- ment. Again, a man who gives his daughter in marriage to any but one of his own relations, is considered as bringing a reproach oh himself and his tribe ; and the consequences are sometimes fatal. Families of the' same blood entertain the most clannish attachment ; insomuch, that who- erer offers an aff"ront to one, is held to be in a state of hostility with the whole tribe. Hence many acts of violence arise ; and the offender has no other means of security than by putting himself under the protection of some chief, who, under the mask of hospitality, shelters him from the pursuit of his enemies. M. de Pages now made a second visit to his friend, the pastor of Mafra, taking Aintoura and Jelton in his way. He was everywhere received with kindness and hospitality : and having now made a consi- derable stay in this pnrt of Asia, and being desirous of passing into Europe, he proceeded directly to St. Jeand'Acre, a port much frequented 228 VOYAGES ROUND fHE WORLD. hy the trading ships of Marseilles. Finding a vessel there, he set sail for Marseilles in tho end of June, 1771, when they bore away for Cyprus, which havincr coasted, they stretched to the northward, to catch the breeze from that quarter, which they fell in with on the coast of Caramania On the 15lh of October they came to an anchor at the Isle of Malta, where our traveller ntiet several French frigates, and on board them some of his old companions, whose friendship was not abated by his long absence. Having afterward touched at Tunis on some business, they again got under °sail ; but being retarded by contrary winds, they did not reach Palma, in Sardinia, till the 27th of JNovembcr. Remaining here for a few days, they proceeded on their voyage, and on the 5th of December, 1771, M. de Pag6s, with gratitude to Providence for his preservation to the end of his travels, again set his foot on his native soil. CAPTAIN COOK.— 1768-1771. Mr. Banks, a gentleman of considerable fortune in Lincolnshire, was induced to undertake this voyage from curiosity and an invincible desire of attaining knowledge. He engaged his friend Dr. Solander, a Swede, to accompany him in this voyage. Mr. Banks also took with him two draughtsmen, and had besidts a secretary and four servants. Lieutenant James Cook was to command the expedition. On the 26th of August, 1768, the Endeavour sailed from Plymouth, the Islands of Puerto, Santo, and Madeira were discovered on the 12th of September, and the ne.xt day they anchored in Fonchial road. The Endeavour sailed thence September the 19th. On the 22d they saw the Islands of Salvages, northward of ihe Canaries. The chief of thesa islands was about five leagues to the south one-half west. These islands appear to lie in laritude 30 degrees 11 minutes north. The 23d saw thu Peak of Tenerifle, bearing west by south. This mountain is near 15,400 feet high. On the 29th perceived Bona Vista, one of the Capo de Verde Islands, lying in latitude IG degrees north, and longitude 21 degrees 48 minutes west. On the 13th of November made sail for the harbour of Ilio-de-Janeiro. Mr. Hicks, the first lieutenant, was sent before in the pinnace to the city, to inform the governor they put ia there for refreshments and water, and to obtain a pilot. Captain Cook went on shore on the 14th, and obtained leave to purchase provisions ; and having requested that the gentlemen on board might remain on shore while they sojourned, and that Mr. Bnnks might go up the country to collect plants, these requests were peremptorily refused. December the 8th, 1768, having procured all necessary supplies, they left Rio-de- Janeiro. On the I4th of January entered the Strait of Le Maire ; but the tide being against them, were driven out with great vio- lence, and the waves ran so high, that the ship's bowsprit was frequently under water; at length, however, they got anchorage at the entrance of a little cove, which Captain Cook called St. Vincent's Bay. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander set out from the ship on the 16th, with the design of going into the country, and returning in the evening. Ha- ving entered a wood, they ascended the hill through a pathless wilderness till the afternoon. The morning had been very fine, but the weather now became cold and disagreeable ; the blasts of wind were very piercing, and a shower of snow fell. Mr. Buchan, one of the draughtsmen, fell into a fit. It was absolutely necessary to stop and kindle a fire, and such JAMES tOOR. 229 as were most fatigued remained to assist him ; but Messrs. Banks, So- lander, Green, and Monkhouse, proceeded and attained the spot they had in view. Upon returning, they found Mr. Buchan much recovered. They had previously sent Mr. Monkhouse and Mr. Green back to him and the others, in order to bring them to a hill, which was conjectured to he in a better track for returning to the wood. The whole party met there at eight in the evening. Dr. Solander having often passed moun- tains in cold countries, was sensible that e.xlreme cold, when joined with fatigue, occasions a drowsiness that is not easily resisted ; he accord- ingly entreated his friends to keep in motion, however disagreeable it might be to thom ; his words were, " Whoever sits down, will sleep ; and whoever sleeps, will wake no more." Every one seemed accordingly armed with resolution; but on a sudden the cold became so very intense as to threaten the most direful effects. It was very remarkable, that Dr. Solander himself, who had so forcibly admonished his party, should be the first who insisted upon being suffered to repose. In spite of the most earnest entreaties, he lay down amid the snow, and it was with great difficulty they kept him awake. When a black servant was informed, that if he remained there he would soon he frozen to death, he replied, that he was so exhausted with fatigue that death would be a relief to him. Dr. Solander said he was not unwilling to go, but that he must first take some sleep, notwithstanding what he had before declared to the company. Thus resolved, they both sat down, supported by bushes, and in a short time fell fast asleep. Intelligence now came from the advanced party, that a fire was kindled about a quarter of a mile farther on the way. Mr. Banks then waked the doctor, who had almost lost the use of his limbs already, though it was but a few minutes since he sat down. Every measure taken to relieve the black proved ineffectual ; he remain- ed motionless, and they were obliged to leave him to the care of the other black servant and a sailor, who appeared to have been the least hurt by the cold. Mr. Banks and four others went forth at twelve o'clock and met the sailor, with just strength enough to walk; he was immediately sent to the fire, and they proceeded to seek for the two others. They found Richmond, one of the black servants, upon his legs, but incapable of moving them ; the other black was Iving senseless upon the ground. All endeavours to bring them to the fire were fruitless, nor vvas it possible to kindle one upon the spot, on account of the snow that had fallen, and was still falling, so that there was no alternative, but to leave the two unfortunate negroes to their fate, making them a bed of boughs of trees, and covering them very thick with the same. On the 17th, in the morning, at daybreak, nothing presented itself around but snow, the trees being equally covered with it as the ground. However, about six in the morning they were flattered with a dawn of hope of being deliver- ed, by discovering the sun through the clouds, which gradually dimi- nished. Previous to setting out, messengers were despatched to the unhappy negroes, who returned with the melancholy news of their death. In about three hours, to their great satisfaction, found themselves upon the shore, much nearer to the ship than their most sanguine expectations could have flattered them. M'hen they took a retrospect of their former route from the sea, they found, that instead of ascending the hill in a direct line, they had made a circle almost round the country. January the 26th Captain Cook sailed from Cape Horn. The farthest Boutherri latitude he made was 60 degrees 10 minutes, by 74 degrees 30 minutes wesc. March the 1st were in latitude 38 degrees 44 minutes 80 230 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. Bouth and longitude 110 degrees 33 minutes west, as well by observa. tion as by the^log; which conoirrence, after i course of 660 leagues, was judged very singular. , , , , r April the 4th, a servant to Mr. Banks discovered land three or four leagues distant. ' It was found to be an island of an oval form, with a lake or lagoon in tlie centre ; the horder of land was in many places low and irarrow, especially toward the south, where the beach consisted of a reef of rocks. Captain Cook came within a mile on the north side, but found no bottom nor anchorage. There appeared along the beach some of the inhabitants, with pikes or poles in their hands, twice the height of themselves. This island was in latitude 18 degrees south, longitude 139 degrees 28 minutes west, and was named Lagoon Island. They saw land again in the afternoon to the north-west, when it appeared a low island covered with wood, in form circular, about a mile in circum- ference No inhabitants weie visible, though the Endeavour had reached the shore within half a mile. This isUnd, which is distant from that of Lagoon about seven leagues, was named Thrumb Cap. The 5th con- tinued their course, and about three o'clock discovered land to the west. This was a low island, between ten and twelve leagues in circumference ; it resembles in form a bow. This island, from the smoke discovered, appeared to be inhabited, and was named Bow Island. About noon, on the 6th, saw land again to the west ; this seemed divided into two islands, or rather collections of i.slands, their e.xtent being near nine leagues. Some of these were ten miles or more in length, and pro- duced trees of diU'prent kinds, among which was the cocoa nut. Several of the inhabitants came out in canoes, and two appeared to have a design of coming on board, hut stopped at the reef Next day discovered an- other island, judged to be in compass about five miles. It was very low, with a piece of water in the centre, and appeared to abound in wood and verdure, but no inhabitants were visible. It was called Bird Island, from the number of them flying about. The 8th saw land to the north. This seemed to be a chain of low islands, of an oval figure, and consisted of coral and sand, with a few clumps of small trees, and in the middle of it a lagoon. It was, from its appearance, called Chain Jlsland. On the 10th, after a tempestuous night, saw Osnaburgh Island, called by the natives Maite. This island is hi^h and circular, about four miles in cir- cumference, partly naked and rocky, and partly covered with trees. The same day, on looking out for the island to which they were des- tine, his boy, Tayota, was perfectly «ri- ^1 JAMES COOK. 245 raptured, dancing along the street in an ecstasy of joy, and examining the several objects as they presented themselves vvitii the most earnest in- quisitiveness and curiosity. Nothing struck Tupia so much as the variety of dresses worn by the inhabitants of Batavia : be inquired the reason, and being informed that the people were of a variety of nations, and that all were dressed according to the mode of their own country, he requested permission to follow the fashion : tiiis request being readily complied with, a person was despatched to the ship for some South Sea cloth, with which he soon clothed himself in the dress of ihe inhabitants of Otaheite. After little more than a week, the ill effects of the climate began to be severely felt. Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks were indisposed with fevers ; Mr. Banks's two servants were exceedingly ill ; the Indian boy, Tayota, had an inflammation on his lungs ; and I'upia was so bad, that his life was despaired of Tayota paid the debt of nature on the 9th of this month : and poor Tupia fell a victim to the ravages of his disorder, and lo his grief for the deceased Tayota. When the latter was first seized with the fatal disorder, he seemed sensible of his approaching end, and frequently said to those about him, Tyau mate, " My friends, I am dying :" he was very tractable, and took any medicines that were offered to him ; they were both buried in the Island of Edam. Since the arrival of the ship, every person belonging to her had been ill, cccept the sailmaker, who was more than seventy years old ; yet this man got drunk every day while they remained there. The Endeavour buried seven of her people — Tupia and his boy, three of the sailors, the servant of Mr. Green, the astronomer, and the surgeon ; and, at the time of the vessel's sailing, forty of the crew were sick, and the rest so enfeebled by their late illness as to be scarcely able to do their duty. The town of Batavia is situated in 6 degrees 10 minutes south latitude, and 106 decrees 50 minutes east longitude. It is built on the bank of a large bay, something more than twenty miles from the Strait of Sunda, on the north side of the Island of Java, in low boggy ground. Several small rivers, which rise forty miles up the country in the mountains of Blaeuen Berg, discharge themselves into the sea at this place, having first intersected the town in different directions. There are wide canals of nearly stagnated water in almost every street, and as the banks of these canals are planted with rows of trees, the effect is very agreeable ; but they combine to render the air pestilential. The method ci building their houses seems to have been taught them by the climate. On the ground floor there is no room but a large hall, a corner of which is parted off for the transaction of business ; the hall has two doors, which are commonly left open, and are opposite each olher, so that the air passes freely through the room, in the middle of which there is a court, which at once increases the draft of air and affords light to the hall ; the stairs, which are at one corner, lead to large and lofty apartments above. The female slaves are not permitted to sit in any place but in the alcove formed by the court ; and this is the usual dining place of the family. The environs of the town have a very pleasing appearance, and would, in almost any other country, be an enviable situation. Gardens and houses occupy the country for several miles. For the space of more than thirty miles around the land is totally flat, except in two places, on one of which the governor's country seat is built, and on the olher they hold a large market ; but neither of these places are higher than ten yards from the level of the plain. At forty miles from the town the land rises 81* 246 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD into hills, and the air is purified in a great degree : to this distance in valids are sent by tlieir physicians, when every other prospect of recovery has failed, and the experiment succeeds in almost every instance ; but they no sooner return lo town than their former disorders recur. The fruits of this country are near forty in number, and of each of these there are several species. Pine-apples grow in such abundance that they may be purchase, at the first hand, for the value of an English farthing. The Batavians strew an immense number of flowers about their houses, and are almost always burning some aromatic woods and gums. The sweet-scented flowers of this country are very numerous, many of which are totally unknown in England. The Island of Java produces goate, sheep, hogs, buffaloes, and horses. The quHntiiy of fish taken is astonishingly great, and all the kinds are fine food, e.xcept a few whicr are very scarce ; yet such is the pride of the inhabitants, that these few scarce soils are sold at high rales, while those that are plentiful are sold for a mere trifle, nor are they eaten but by the slaves. There is abundance of poultry, as excellent of their kinds as those of England ; turkeys are immoderately dear, and pigeons not much less so ; but geese, ducks, and fine large fowls are altogether as cheap. On the 27th of December, 1770, the Endeavour left the road of Bata- via, and, as many of the ship's crew, who had been very ill while at Batavia, were now become much worse, the vessel was brought to an anchor in the afternoon of the 5th, near Princess Island. A slay of tea days occurred here, during which they purchased vegetables of various kinds, fowls, deer, and turtle ; the anchor was weighed, and the vessel once more put to sea. Afier a passage in which they lost twenty-three more officers and men, the ship was brought lo an anchor off the Cape of Good Hope on the 15th of March, 1771. The captain repaired instantly to the governor, who said, thai such refreshments as the country supplied should be cheer- fully granted him ; on which a house was hired for the sick, who were to have board and lodging for two shillings a day, each person. Cape Town consists of near a thousand brick-houses, the outsides of which being generally plastered, they have a very pleasing appearance. There is a canal in the main street, with two rows of oak trees on its bor- ders, which are in a more flourishing slate than the other trees of this country ; the streets, which cross each other at right angles, are very spacious and handsome. The inhabitants are chiefly Dutch, or of Dutch extraction : the women are pleasing in a high degree. The air is so pure and salubrious, that a sick person, who goes thither from Europe, often recovers his health in a short lime ; but those who bring diseases from the East Indies have not an equal chance of recovery. Although the country is naturally so barren as scarcely to produce anything, yet the industry of its inhabitants has so effectua/ly combated the hand of nature, that there are few places where the necessaries of life are more plentiful ; and even what are generally deemed luxuries are ty no means scarce. The Constantia wine is known lo be excellent, but the genuine sort is made only at one particular vineyard, a few miles from the town. The gardens produce many sorts of European and Indian fruits, and almost all the common kind of vegetables. The cultivated fields yield wheal and barley of equal quality with that of England. The sheep have tails of a very extraordinary size, many of which weigh upward of a dozen pounds ; the meat of this animal, as well as of the ox, is very fine food : the wool of the sheep is rather of the hairy kind, and the horns of ■i^^Bs COOK. 247 the black cattle spread much wider than those of England, while the beast himself is handdoxner and lighter made. The cheese has a very indifle- rent flavojr, but the butter is extremely good. The pork is nearly the same as that of Europe ; and there is an abundance of goats, but the inha- bitants do not eat their flesh. The country abounds in hares, altogether like those of England ; there are several species of the antelope, plenty of bustards, and two kinds of quails. The Dutch company have a garden at the extremity of the high street, which is more than half a mile in length, in the centre walk of which arc a number of fine oak trees. A small part of this garden is covered with botanical plants, but all the rest is allotted to the production of the com- mon vegetables for the kitchen : the whole is divided into squares by the form of its walks, and each square is fenced in by oaks cut into small hedges. There is a menagerie of beasts and birds, many of them known in Europe, at the upper end of this garden ; and among the rest is the kadou, a beast not less than a horse, which has those curious spiral horns that have frequently found a place in the cabinets of the curious. The native inhabitants of this country are usually dressed in a sheep- skin thrown across the shoulders, and a little pouch before, to which is fixed a kind of belt, ornamented with bits of copper and beads : round the waists of the women is a broad piece of leather, and rings of the same round their ancles ; a few wear a kind of shoe made of the bark of a tree, but the major part go barefooted ; both sexes adorn themselves with bracelets and necklaces made of beads. None of these people reside at a less distance than four days' journey from "Cape Town, except a num- ber of the poorer sort, who look after the cattle belonging to the Dutch farmers, and are employed in various other menial olfices. Most of the Hottentots speak the Dutch language, without anything remarkable in their manner ; yet, when they converse in their native language, they frequently stop, and make a clucking with their tongues, which has a most singular and ridiculous effect to the ears of a stranger; and, exclu- sive of this clucking, their language itself is scarcely sounded articulately. They are modest to the utmost degree, and, though fond of singing and dancing, can hardly be prevaded on to divert themselves v^ith their Aivou- rite amusements before strangers : both their smging and dancing are alternately quick and slow in the utmost extreme. Some understand the art of smelting and preparing copper, with which they make plates, and wear them on their foreheads as an article of finery. They are also capa- ble of making knives, superior to those they can purchase of the Dutch, from whom they procure the iron. • They are so dexterous in throwing stones, that they will hit a mark, not larger than a crown-piece, af the distance of a hundred yards. They are likewise expert in the use of arrows and of the lance called an assa- gay, the points of which they poison, sometimes with the venom of a serpent, and sometimes with the juice of [)arlicular herbs, so that a wound received from either is almost always mortal. Quitting the cape, they came to an anchor off the Island of St. Helena May 1st, and on the 4th the Endeavour sailed from the road of St. Helena, together with the Portland man-of-war and several sail of Indiamen. On the 23d lost sight of all the ships in company, and in the afternoon of the same day Mr. Hicks, the first lieutenant, died of a cons\imption, with which he had been aiflicted during the whole voyage. No single occurrence worth recording happened from this time till the ship came to an anchor in the Downs, on the 13th of June following. 248 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE.— 1772-^75. f A second voyage being resolved upon, Captain Cook was appointed to th» Resolution, and Captain Furneaux, who had been with Captain Waliis, to the Adventure, two ships which, from their construction, were supposed bet- ter adapted to the service than any others.] On the 13th of July, 1772, the two ships sailed from Plymouth Sound : and on the evening of the 29th anchored in Funchiale Road, in the Island of Madeira. On the 9lh of August made the Island of Bonavista. The next day passed the Isle of Mayo on our right ; and the same evening anchored in Port Praya, in the Island o'" St. Jago. On the 29th of October they made the land of the Cape of Good Hope. Having finished their business here and taken leave of the governor and some others of the chief officers, who, with very obliging readiness, had given every assistance, on the 22d of November weighed, with the wind at north-by-west. In the morning of the 10th of December made the signal for the Adventure to make sail and lead. At eight o'clock saw an island of ice to the westward, being then in the latitude of 50 degiees 40 minutes south, and longitude 2 degrees east of the Cape of Good Hope. On the 9th of February, when the weather cleared up, they could see several leaorues round, and found that the Adventure was not within the limits of their horizon. At ten o'clock of the 25th of March, the land of New Zealand was seen from the mast-head, and at noon from the deck, extending from north-east-by-east to east, distant ten leagues. After runnintr about two leagues up Dusky Bay, and passing several of the isles which lay in it, they brought-to, hoisted out two boats, and anchored in fifty fathoms water, so near the shore as to reach it with a hawser. This was on Friday, the 26th of March, at three in the afternoon, after having been 117 days at sea, in which time they had sailed 3660 leagues, without having once sight of land. On the 27ih, at nine o'clock in the morning, got under sail with a light breeze at south-west, and working over to PickersgiU harbour, entered it by a channel scarcely twice the width of the ship ; and in a small creek moored head and stern, so near the shore as to reach it with a brow or stage, which nature had in a manner prepared in a large tree, whose end or top reached the gunwale. In the evening they had a short interview with three o* the natives, one man and two women. They were the first that discovered themselves on the north-east point of Indian Island, named so on this occasion ; the man hallooed to them. He stood with his club in his hand upon the point of a rock, and behind, at the skirts of the wood, stood the two women, each with a spear. The man could not help discovering great signs of fear when they approached the rock with the boat. He, however, stood firm ; nor did he move to take up some things they threw him ashore. At length Captain Cook landed, went up and embraced him, and presented him with such articles as at once dissipated his fears. Presently after they were joined by the two women, the other gentlemen, and some of the seamen. After this they spent about half an hour in chit-chat, little understood on either side, in which the youngest of the two women bore by far the greatest share. This occasioned one of the seamen to say, that women did not want tonguo m any part of the world. Having fine geese left out of those brought JAMES COOK. 249 /rom the Cape of Good Hope, they went with them next mornintr to Goose Cove (named so on this account.) They chose this place" for here are no inhabitants to disturb them; and, secondly, here beintr the most food, they will breed, and may in time spread over the whole coun- try, and fully answer the intention in leaving them. At nine o'clock, the 11th of April, weighed, with a light breeze at south-east, and stood out to sea. The country is exceedingly mountainous, not only about Dusky Bay, but throughout all the southern part of this western coast of Tavai Poe- nammoo. But the land bordering on the sea-coast, and all the islands, are thickly clothed with wood, almost down to the water's edge. The trees are of various kind?, such as are common to other parts of thid country, and are fit for the shipwright, house-carpenter, cabinet-maker and many other uses. Except on the River Thames, there is not finer timber in all New Zealand. What Dusky Bay abounds with is fish ; a boat with six or eight men, with hooks and hnes, caught daily sufficient to serve the whole ship's company. Of this article the variety is almost equal to the plenty. The shell-fish are muscles, cockles, scallops, cray-fish, and many other sorts. The only amphibious animals are seals ; these are to be found in great numbers about this bay, on the small rocks and isles near the sea- coast. After leaving Dusky Bay, they directed their course along-shore for Queen Charlotte's Sound, where they expected to find the Adventure. The wind having returned to the west, they resumed their course to the east ; and at daylight the next morning (being the ISlli) appeared off Queen Charlotte's Sound, and discovereii their consort the Adventure by the signals she made, an event which every one felt with an agreeable satisfaction. Early in the morning of the 24lh sent Mr. Gilbert, the master, to sound about the rock discovered in the entrance of the sound. Cook, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr. Forster, went in a boat to the west bay on a shooting party. On their way, met a large canoe, in which were fourteen or fifteen people. One of the first ques- tions they asked was for Tupia, the person brought from Otaheite on the former voyage ; and they seemed to express some concern when told lie was dead. These people made the same inquiry of Captain Furneaux when he first arrived, and, on returning to the ship in the evening, they were told that a canoe had been alongside, the people in which seemed to be strangers, and who also inquired for Tupia. On the 2d of June, the ships being nearly ready to put to sea, they sent on shore, on the east side of the sound, two goats, male and female. Captain Furneaux also put on shore, in Cannibal Cove, a boar and two breeding sows ; so that they had reason to hope this country would in time be stocked with these animals, if not destroyed by the natives before they became wild, for afterward they will be in no danger. On the 7th of June, at four in the morning, weighed and put to sea, with the Adventure in company. On the 11th of August, at daybreak, land was seen to the south. This, upon a nearer approach, was found to be an island of about two leagues in extent, in the direction of north- west and south-east, and clothed with wood, above which the cocoa nut trees showed their lofty heads. It lies in the latitude of 17 degrees 24 minutes, longitude 141 degrees 39 minutes west, and was called, after ihe name of the ship. Resolution Island. At daybreak, the next morning, discovered land right ahead, distant about two miles. This proved another of these low or half-drowned S50 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. islands, or rather a large coral shoal of about twenty leagues in circuit. A very small part of it was land, which consisted of little isles ranged along the north side, and connected by sajid-banks and breakers. This island was named after Captain Furneaux. The next morning, at four o'clock, made sail, and at daybreak saw another of these low islands, situated in the latitude of 17 degrees 4 minutes, longitude 144 degrees 30 minutes west, which obtained the name of Adventure Island. M. de Bougainville very properly calls this cluster of low overflowed isles the Dangerous Archipelago. On the 15th, at five o'clock in the morning, saw Osnaburgh Island, or Maitea, discovered by Captain Wallis. At daybreak found themselves not more than half a league from the reef of Otaheite. A number of the inhabitants came off in canoes from different parts, bringing a little fish, a few cocoa nuts, and other fr^iits, which they exchanged for nails, beads, &c. The most of them knew Captain Cook again, and many incjuired for Mr. Banks and others who were there before ; but not one asked for Tupia. The next morning, being the 17ih, they anchored in Oaiti-piha Bay, in twelve fathoms water, about two cables' length from the shore. It was not till now that any one inquired after Tupia, and tiien but two or three. As soon as they learned the cause of his death, they were quite satisfied ; indeed it did not appear that it would have caused a moment's uneasiness in the breast of any one, had his death been occasioned by any other means than by sickness ; as little inquiry was made after Autourou, the man who went away with M. de Bougainville. But they were continually asking for Mr. Banks, and several others who were in the former voyage. These people said, that Toutaha, the regent of tbo greater Peninsula of Otaheite, had been killed in a battle which waij fought between the two kingdoms about five months before, and that Otoo was the reigning prince. Tubourai Tamaide, and several mom friends about Matavai, fell in this battle, as also a great number of com- mon people ; but at present peace subsisted between the two kingdoms. Before they got to an anchor in Matavai Bay, their decks were crowd- ed with the natives ; many of whom the captain knew, and almost all of them knew linn. On the 27th Otoo, attended by a numerous train, paid them a visit. He first sent into the ship a large quantity of cloth, fruits, a hog, and two large fish ; and, after some persuasion, came aboard himself, with his sister, a younger brother, and several more of his attendants. To all of them were made presents ; and after breakfast the captain took the king, his sister, and as many more as he had room for, into his boat, and carried them liome to Oparee. He had no sooner landed than he was met by a venerable old lady, the mother of the late Tout;iha. She seized both his hands, and burst into a flood of tears, saying, Toutaha Tiyo no Toutcc malty Toutaha — (Toutaha, your friend, or the friend of Cook, is d-ead.) Captain Furneaux presented the king with two fine goats, male and female, which, if taken care of, will no doubt multiply. Soon after they were conducted to the theatre, and entertained with a dramatic heava, or play, in which were both dancing and comedy. The performers were five men and one woman, who was no less a person than the king's sister. The music consisted of three drums only ; it lasted about an hour and a half or two hours, and upon the whole was well conducted. It was not possible to find out the mean- ing of the play. It apparently diflfcred in nothing, that is, in the manner of acting it, from those at Ulielea in the former voyage. The dancmg- JAMES COOK. 251 llress of the lady was more elegant than any seen there, by being decorated with long tassels, made of feathers, hanging from the waist downward. On the 1st of September the ships unmoored. Some hours before they got under sail, a young man, whose name was Poreo, came and de- sired the captain would take him with him ; who consented, thinking he might be of service on some occasion. As soon as they were clear of the bay, they directed their course for the Island of Huaheine, and made it the next day. At daylight, in the morning of the 3d, made sail for the harbour of Owharre, in which the Resolution anchored about nine o'clock, in twenty-four fathoms water. The good old chief, Oree, made them a visit early in the morning on the 5th, together with some of his friends, bring- ing a hog and some fruit, for which they made him a suitable return. He carried his kindness so far, as not to faU to send every day the very best of ready-dressed fruit and roots, and in great plenty. Before they quit- ted this island, Captain Furneau.x agreed to receive on board his ship a young man named Omai, a native of Ulietea, where he had some pro- perty, of which he had been dispossessed by tlie people of Bblabola. They now made sail for Ulietea. Arriving ofl' the harbour of Ohama- neno at the close of the day, they spent the night making short tacks. Next morning they paid a formal visit to Oreo, the chief of this part of the isle, carrying the necessary presents. They went through a sort of ceremony at landing, but were' at once conducted to him. He was seat- ed in his own house, which stood near the water-side, where he and his friends reofliveJ them with great cordiality. He expressed much satis- faction at seeing the captain again, and desired they might e.xchange names ; this is the strongest mark of friendship they can show to a stran- ger. He inquired after Tupia, and all the gentlemen, by name, who were with him when he first visited the island. After leaving Ulietea, they steered to the west, inclining to the south, to get clear of the tracts of former navigators, and to get into the latitude of the Islands of Middleburg and Amsterdam. At two o'clock, i'. M., on the 1st of October, made Middleburg, bearing west-south-west. In the meantime, two canoes, each conducted by two or three men, came boldly a'ongside ; and some of them entered the ship without hesitation. As soon as all were on board, they made sail down to Amsterdam. The people of this isle were so little afraid, that some met them in three canoes about midvvay between the two isles. Mr. Forster and his party spent the day in the country botanizing; and several of the officers were out shooting. All of them were very civilly treated by the natives. They had also a brisk trade for bananoes, cocoa nuts, yams, pigs, and fowls ; all of which were procured for nails and pieces of cloth. A boat from each ship was employed in trading ashore, and bringing off their cargoes as soon as they were laden, which was generally in a short time. By this method they got cheaper, and with less trouble, a good quantity of fruit, as well as other refreshments, from people who had no canoes to carry them off to the ships. These islands were first discovered by Ca|)tain Tasman, in January, 1643, and by him called Amoterdam and Middleburg. But the former is called by the natives Ton-ga-ta-boo, and the latter Ea-oo-wce. Middle- burg, or Eaoowee, which is the southernmost, is about ten leagues in circuit, and of a height futficient to be seen twelve leagues. The skirts of this isle are mostly '.aken up in the plantations ; the south-west and north-west sides especially. The interior parts are but little cultivated, though very fit for cultivation. The anchorage, named English Road, 253 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. being the first who anchored there, is on the north-west side, in latitude 21 degrees 20 minutes and 30 seconds south. The island is shaped some- thing like an isosceles triangle, the longest sides whereof are seven leagues eaclT, and the shortest four. It lies nearly in the direction of east-south- east and west-north-west ; is nearly all of an equal height, rather low, not exceeding sixty or eighty feet above the level of the sea. Amsterdam, or Tongataboo, is wholly laid out in plantations, in which are j)lanted some of the richest productions of nature, such as breai' fruit, cocoa nut trees, plantains, banauoss, shaddocks, yams, and some other roots, sugar-cane, and a fruit like a nectarine, called by Fighegea. and at Otaheite Ahceya ; m sliort, here are most of the articles which the Society Islands jiroduce, besides some which they have not. The lanes or roads necessary for travelling are laid out m so judicious a manner, as to open a free and easy communication from one part of the island to the other. Here are no towns or villages ; most of the houses are built in the plantations, with no other order than what conveniency requires ; they are neatly constructed, but do not exceed those in the other isles. The materials of which they are budt are the same ; and some little variation in the disposition of the framing is all the diH'erence m their construction. They saw no domestic animals but hogs and fowls : the former are of the same sort as at the other isles in this sea ; but the latter are far supprior, being as large as any in Europe, and their flesh equally good, if not belter. They saw no dogs, and believe they have none, as they were exceedingly desirous of those on board. Cook's friend, Altago, was complimented with a dog and a bitch, the one from New Zealand, the other from Ulietea. The name of a dog with them is koorce or goorec, the same as at New Zealand, which shows that they are not wholly strangers to them. The two vessels, which compose the double canoe are each about sixty or seventy feet long, and four or five broad in the middle, and each end terminaldBs nearly in a point. Two such vessels are fastened together, parallel to each other, about six or seven feet asunder, by strong cross- beams secured by bandages to the upper [lart of the risings. Over these beams "ind others which are supported by stanchions fixed on the bodies of the canoes, is laid a boarded platform. All the parts which compose the double canoe are made as strong and light as the nature of the work will admit, and may be immerged in water to the very platform without being in danger of filling. Nor is it possible, under any circumstances whatever, for them to sink, so long as they hold together. Thus they are not only vessels of burden, but fit for distant navigation. They arc rigged with one mast, with steps upon the platform, and can easily be raised or taken down ; and are sailed with a latteen sail, or triangular one, extended by a long yard, which is a little bent or crooked. Their work- ing tools are made of stone, bone, shells, &c , as at the other islands. Their knowledge of the utility of iron was no more than sufficient to teach them to prefer nails to beads and such trifles : some, but very few, would exchange a pig for a large nail or a hatchet. Old jackets, shirts, cloth, and even rags, were in more esteem than the best edge-tool ; consequently, they got but few axes but what were given as presents. Both men and women are of a common size with Europeans, and their colour is that of a lightish copper, and more uniformly so than among the inhabitants of Otaheite and the Society Isles. The women are the merriest creatures they ever met with, and will Iwep chatting without the least invitation, or considering whether th&y iAMES i66E. 253 are understood, provided one does but seem pleased with them. In ge- neral they appeared to be modest ; although there was no want of those of a different stamp. In tho afternoon, on the 8th of October, made the Island of Pilstart. This island, which was also discovered by Tasinan, is situated in the latitude of 22 degrees 26 minutes south, longitude 175 degrees 59 minutes west. On the 21st made the land of New Zealand ; at noon Tabic Cape bore west, distant eight or ten leagues. November 2d a gale abated, and was succeeded by a few hours' calm ; after that a breeze sprung up at r.urth-west, with whicli they weighed and ran up into Ship Cove, where they did not find the Adventure, which had sej;arated a day or two before from not observing a signal, as was expected in Queen Chailotle's Sound. In the afternoon some of the officers went on shore to amuse them- selves among the natives, where they saw the head and bowels of a youth, who liad lately been killeJ, lying on the beacii, and the heart stuck on a forked slick, which was fixed to the head cf one of the largest canoes. One of the gentlemen bought the head and brought it on board, where a piece of the flesh was broiled and eaten by one of the natives, before all the officers and most of the men That the New Zealanders are canai- bals, can now no longer be doubted. On the 2.'ith, early in the morning, they weighed, with a small breeze, out of the cove. On the 26ih took their departure from Cape Palliscr, and steered to the south, inclining to the east, having a favourable gale from the north-west and south-west. At four o'clock,J2th of December, being in the latitude of 62 degrees 10 minutes south, longitude 172 de- grees west, saw the first ice island, 11 J degrees farther south than the first ice seen on the preceding year, after leaving the Cape of Good Hope. The 17th, falling in with a quantity of loose ice, they hoisted out two boats ; and by noon got on board as much as they could manage. The clear weather, and the wind veering to north-west, tempted them to steer south ; which course they continued till seven in the morning of the 20th, when the wind changing to north-east, and the sky becoming clouded, they hauled up south-east. In the afternoon the wind increased to a strong gale, attended with a thick fotr. snow, sleet, and rain. The rigging at this time was so loaded with ice that they had enough to do to get the topsails down to double the reef. .Tat.uary 1st, the wind re- mained not long at east, but veered round by the south to west ; blew fresh, attended with snow showers. In the evening, being in the latitude of 58 degrees 39 minutes south, passed two islands of ice ; after which saw no more till they stood again to the south. On the 30th, at four o'clock in the morning, perceived the clouds over the horizon to the south to be of an unusual snow-white brightness, whicli they knew denounced their approach to fie!d-ice. Captain Cook here says : " I will not say it was impossible anywhere to get farther to the south ; but the attempting it would have been a danger- ous and rash enterprise, and what, I believe, no man in my situation would have thought of. It was, indeed, my opinion, as well as the opinion of most on board, that this ice extended quite to the pole, or perhaps joined to some land, to which it had been fixed from the earliest time ; and that it is here (that is, to the south of this parallel) where all the ice we find scattered up and down to the north is first formed, and afterward brokea otF by gales of wind, or other causes, and brought to the north by the currents, which we always found to set in that direction in the high Uti- 22 ^54 VOYAGfiS ROUND THE w6RL6. tudes As we drew near this ice some penguins were heard, but none seen ■ and but few other birds, or any other thing that could induce na to think any land was near. And yet I think there must be some to the south behind this ice ; but if there is, it can afford no better retreat for birds, or any other animals, than the ice itself, with which it must be wholly covered. I, who had ambition not only to go farther than any one had been before, hut as farad it was possible for m.m to go, wa3 not sorry at meetino- with this interruption, as it in some measure relieved us, at least shorfencd the danirers and hardships inseparable f.-'om the navigation of the southern polar regions. Since, therefore, we could not proceed one inch farther to the south, no other reason need be assigned for my tackmg and standing back to the north : being at this time in the lati- tude of 71 degrees 10 minutes south, longitude 106 degreed 54 minute* west." Steering north from this time, at eight o'clock in the morning, on the 11th of March, land was seen from the mast-head, bearing west ; and at noon, from the deck, extending from west three-quarters north to west by south, about twelve leagues distant. They made no doubt that this was Davis's Land, or Easier Island, as its appearance from this situation corresponded very well with Wafer's account : and they expected to have seen the low sandy isle that, Davis fell in with, which would have been a confirmaton ; but in this were disappointed. In the mean time, sent away the master in a boat to sound the coast. He returned about five o'clock in the evening ; and soon after they came to an anchor in thirty-six fathoms water, before a sandy beach. As the master drew near shore with the boat, one of the natives swam off to her, and insisted on coming aboard the ship, where he remained two nights and a day. The first thing he did after coming abo;ird, was to measure the length of the ship, by fathom- ing her from the taffrail to the stem ; and as he counted the fathoms, they observed that he called the numbers by the same names that they do at Otaheite ; nevertheless, his language was in a manner wholly unin- telligible to all on board. Captain Cook landed at the sandy beach, where some hundreds of the natives were assembled, and who were so impatient to see them, that many swam off to meet the boats. Not one had so much as a slick or weapon of any sort in his hand. Afler distributing a few trinkets among them, the officers made signs for something to eat ; on which they brought down a few potatoes, plantains, and sugar-canes, and exchanged them for nails, looking-glasses, and pieces of cloth. They presently discovered that they were as expert thieves, and as trick- ing in their exchanges, as any people yet met with. It was with some difficulty the officers could keep their hals on their heads ; but hardly possible to keep anything in their pockets, not even what the natives had sold them ; for they would watch every opportunity to snatch it again, so that the officers sometimes bought the same thing two or three times over, and after all did not get it. The inhabitants do not seem to exceed six or seven hundred souls, and above two-thirds of those weie males. They either have but few females among them, or else many were restrained from making their appearance during their stay ; for though they saw nothing to induce them to believe the men were of a jealous disposition, or the women afraid to appear in public, something of this kind was probably the case. In colour, features, and language, they bear such a resemblance to the people of the more western isles, that no one will doubt they have had the same origin. JAMES tOOK 255 The gigantic statues so often mentioned are not, in their opinion, looked upon as idols by the present inliahitants, whatever they might have been in the days of the Dutch ; at least they saw nothing that could in- duce ihein to think so. The statues, or at least many of thfni, arc erected ou plaiforins, which serve as foundations. They arc, as near as they could judge, about half Icngih, ending in a sort of stump at the bot- tom, on which they stand. The workmanship is rude, but not bad ; nor are the features of the face ill formed, the nose and chin in panicular; but the ears are long beyond proportion : and as to the bodies, there is hardly anything like a human figure about them. After leaving Easter Island they steered north-west by north and nortli- noith-west, wiih a fine easterly gale, intending to touch at the Mar- quesHs. They continued to steer to the west till the 6th of April, at four in the afternoon, at which time, beiug in the latitude of 9 degrees 20 minntps, longitude 133 degrees 14 minutes west, they discovered an island, bear- ing west by souih, distant about nine leagues. Two hours after saw another, bearing south-west by south, which appeared more e.xtensive than the former. By this time they were well assured that these were the Marquesas, discovered by Mendana in 1.595. The first isle was a new discovery, which was named Hood's Island, af'.er the young gentleman who first savi' it : the second was that of Si. Pedro ; the third Le Domi- nica ; and the fourth St Christina. Very early next morning the natives visited them in great numbers, brniging bread fruit, plantains, and one pig, all of which they exchanged for nails, &c. But in this traffic they would frequently keep the goods pnd make no return, till at last they were obliged to fire a musket ball over one man, who had several times served them in this manner ; after which they dealt more fairly, and soon after several came on board. The Marquesas are five in number, viz , La Alagdalena, St. Pedro, La Dominica, Santa Christina, and Hood's Island, which is the northermost, situated in latitude 9 degrees 26 minutes south, and 13 degrees west, five leagues and a half distant from the east point of La Dominica, which is the largest of all the isles, extending east and west six leagues. The port of Madre de Dios, now named Resolution Bay, is situated near the middle of the west side of St. Christina, and under the highest land on the island. In the bay, which is near three-quarters of a mile deep, and has from thirty-four to twelve fathoms water, v.'ith a clean sandy bottom, are two sandy coves, divided from each other by a rocky point. In each is a rivulet of excellent water. The northern cove is the most commodious for wooding and watering. Here is the little water-fall mentioned by Quiros, Mendana's pilot ; but the town, or village, is in the other cove. The inhabitants collectively are, without exception, the finest race of people in this sea. For fine shape and regular features, they perhaps surpass all other nations. Nevertheless, the affinity of their lano-uage to that spoken in the Otaheite and the Society Isks, show that they arc of the same nation. The men are punctured, or curiously tattooed, from head to foot. The figures are various, and seem directed more by fancy than custom. These puncturations make them look dark ; but the women, who are but little punctured, youths, and young children, who are not at all, are as fiiir as some Europeans. With a fine easterly wind they steered south-west, south-west by west, and west by south, till the 17th, at ten o'clock in the morning, when land was seen bearing north-west, which, upon a 256 VO 'AGES ROUND THE WORLD. nearer approach, was found to be a string of low isles connected toge ther by a reef of coral rocks. This island, which is called by the inhabi tants Tioo kea, was discovered and visUed by Commodore Byron. Ui fhe 18ih at daybreak, after havi.ig spent the night making short boards, wore down to another isle in sight to the west-ward, which they reaches by eight o'clock, and ranged the south-east side at one mile from shore These must be the same islands to which Commodore Byron gave tne name of George's Islands. On the 19lh, at seven in the morning, land was seen to the westward It proved to be another of these half overflowed or drowned islands, which are so common to this part of the ocean ; that is, a number of Utile isles ranged in a circular form, connected together by a reef oi wall of coral rock. As they drew near the siuth end, saw from the mast-head another of these low isles bearing south-east, distant about four or five leagues ; but, being to windward, could not reach it. Soon after a third appeared, bear- ing south-west by south, for which they steered ; and at two o'clock, P.°M., reached the east end. which is situated in latitutfe 15 degrees 47 minutes south, longitude 146 degrees 30 minutes west They made the high land of Otaheite on the 21st, and at noon were about thirteen leagues ea.-t of Point Venus, for which they steered, and got pretty well in with it by su:iset, when they shortened sail ; and at eight o'clock the next moriiing anchored in Matavai Bay. This was no sooner known to the natives, than many made a visit, and expressed not a little joy at seeing them again. O.t the 24th, Otoo, the king, and several other chiefs, with a train of attendants, paid a visit, and brought as presents ten or a dozen large hogs, besides fruits, which made them exceedingly welcome. On the 26th Captain Cook went down to Oparee, accompanied by some of the officers and gentlemen, to p.iy Otoo a visit by appointment. As they drew near, they observed a number of large canoes in motion ; but were surprised to see upward of 300 ranged in order, for some distance along the shore, all completely equipped and manned, besides a vast number of armed men upon the shore. The vessels of war con- sisted of 160 large double canoes, very well equipped, manned, and armed. The chiefs, and all those on the fighting stages, were dressed in the war habits ; that is, in a vast quantity of cloth, turbans, breast-plates, and helmets : some of the latter were of such a length as greatly to incum- ber the wearer. Indeed tlicir whole dress seemed to be ill calculated for the day of battle, and to be designed more for show than use. Tho vessels were decorated with flags, streamers, &c. ; so that the whole made a noble appearance, such as they had never seen before in this sea, and what no one would have expected. Their instruments of war were clubs, spears, and stones. The vessels were ranged close alongside of each other, with their heads ashore and their stern to the sea ; the admirarij vessel being nearly in the centre. Besides the vessels of war, there were 170 sail of smaller double canoes, all with a little house upon them, and rigged with mast and sail, which the war canoes had not. These were designed for transports, victuallers, &c. ; for the war canoes contained no sort of provision whatever. In these 330 vessels there were no less than 7760 men ; a number which ap[i degrees 5 minutes south, lomntude 37 degrees 18 minutes west, and eleven leagues to the east of Cape North. A few miles to the west of Possession Bay, between it and Cape Buller, lies the Bay of Isles, so named on account of several small isles lying in and before it. They called this land the Isle of Georgia, in honour of his majesty. It is siuiated between the latitudes of 53 degrees 57 minutes and 54 de- grees 57 minutes south, and between 38 degrees 13 minutes and 35 de- grees 34 minutes west longitu.^e ; is thirty-one leagues long, and its greatest breadth is about ten leagues. It seems to abound with bays and harbours, the north-east coast especially ; but the vast quantity of ice must render them inaccessible the greatest part of the year. On the 25th steered east-south-east, with a fresh gale. They now reckoned to be in latitude 63 degrees south, and farther they did not in- tend to go, unless they observed some certain signs of soon meeting with land. They continued to stand to the east till the 28th, when they fell in, all at once, with a vast number of large ice islands, and a sea strewed with loose ice. At half-past six, on the 31st, standing north-north-east, with the wind at west, the fog very fortunately clearing away a little, they dis- covered land ahead, three or four miles distant. It extended from north by east to east-south-east, and was called Cape Bristol, in honour of the noble family of Hervey. They called this land Southern Thule, because it is the most southern land that has ever yet been discovered. It shows a surface of vast height, and is everywhere covered with snow. On the 1st of February, at four in the morning, got sight of a new coast, ■which, at six o'clock, bore north 60 degrees east. It proved a high pro- montory, which was named Cape Montagu, situated in latitude 53 degrees 27 minutes south, longitude 26 degrees 44 minutes west, and seven or eight leagues to the north of Cape Bristol. Continuing to steer to the north all night, on the 2d anew land was seen, bearing north 12 degrees east, about ten leagues distant. It appeared in two hummock just peeping above the horizon. The weather was now become very hazy, which soon turning to a thick foij, put a stop to discovery, and made it unsafe to stand for the shore. Thus they were obliged to leave it, under the supposition of it being an island, which was named Saunders, after Sir Charles. They stood to the north, having a light breeze at west by south. At this time they saw the land, which proved to be two isles. The day on which they were discovered was the occasion of calling them Can- dlemas Isles ; latitude 57 degrees 11 minutes south, longitude 27 degrees 6 minutes west. At daybreak, on the 7th, resumed their course to the east, with a very fresh gale at south-west by west, attended by a high sea from the same direction. Toward noon, on the 14th, the wind, veering to the south, in- creased to a very strong gale, and blew in heavy squalls, attended with snow. They continued to steer east, inclining a little to the north, and in the afternoon crossed the first meridian, or that of Greenwich, in the latitude of 27 degrees 50 minutes south. They had now made the circuit of the southern ocean, in a high latitude, JAMES COOK, 265 and traversed it in such a manner as to leave not the least room for the possibility of there being a continent, unless near the pole, and out of the reach of navigation. By twice visiting the tropical sea, they had not only settled the situation of some old discoveries, but made there many new ones, and left very little more to be done even in that part. These con- siderations induced them to lay aside looking for the French discoveries of Bouvet, and to steer for the Cape of Good Hope ; with a resolution, however, of looking for the Isles of Denia and Marseveen, laid down in Dr. Halley's variation chart in the latitude of 4H degrees south, and about 4 degrees of longitude to the east of the meridian of the Cape of Good Hope. At daylight, on the i6th of March, saw two sail in the north-west quar- ter, standing to the westward, and one of them showing Dutch colours. ■ At ten o'clock tacked and stood to the west also, being at this time in the latitude of 39 degrees 9 minutes south, longitude 23 degrees 38 minutes east. In the evening of the I7th saw land in the direction of east- north-east, about si.x leagues distant ; and during the forepart of the night there was a great fire or light upon it. At nine o'clock, having little or no wind, hoisted out a boat, and sent on board one of the two ships before-mentioned, which were about two leagues from them; but they were too impatient after news to regard the distance. At one, P. M., the boat returned from on board the Bownkerke Polder, Captain Cornelius Bosch, a Dutch Indiaman from Bengal. Captain Bosch very obligingly, offered sugar, arrack, and whatever he had to spare. Our people were told by some English seamen on board this ship, that the Adventure had arrived at the Cape of Good Hope twelve months ago, and that the crew of one of her boats had been murdered and eaten by the people of Nev/ Zealand ; so that the story heard in Queen Charlotte's Sound was now no longer a mystery. The next morning, being with them Wednesday, the 22d, but with the people here Tuesday, the 31st, they anchored in Table Bay, where they found several Dutch ships, some French, and the Ceres, Captain Newte, an English East India company's ship, from China, bound directly to England, by whom Cook sent a copy of the preceding part of this journal, some charts, and other drawings, to the admiralty. By the 36th of April the work was finished ; and having got on board all necessary stores and a fresh supply of provisions and water, they took leave of the governor and other principal officers, and the next morning repaired on board. At daybreak, in the morning of the 15th of May, saw the Island of St. Helena at the distance of fourteen leagues ; and at mid- night anchored in the road before the town, on the north-west side of the island. In the morning of the 28th made Ascension ; and the same evening an- chored in Cross Bay, on the north-west side, in ten fathoms water ; th«5 bottom a'fine sand, and half a mile from the shore. The island is about ten miles in length and five or six in breadth. It shows a surface com- posed of barren hills and valleys, on the most of which not a shrub or plant is to be seen for several miles, and where they found nothing but stones and sand, or rather flags and ashes ; an indubitable sign that theisle, at some remote time, has been destroyed by a volcano, which has thrown up vast heaps of stones, and even hills. Between these heaps of stones they found a smooth even surface, composed of ashes and sand, and very good travelling upon it ; but one may as easily walk over broken glass- tottles as over the stones -^3 266 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. Turtle are to be found at this isle from January to Jane. The metliod of catchincf ihein i.-s to have people upon the several sandy bays, to watch their coming on shore to lay their eggs, which is always in the nighi, and then to uirn them on their backs, till there be an opportunity to take them ofl' the next day. It is recommended to send a good marjy men to each beach, where they were to lie quiet till the turtle were ashore, and then rise and turn them at once. This method may be the best when the turtle are numerous; but when there are but few, three or four men are sufficient for the largest beach ; and if they keep patrolling it close to the wash of the surf during the night, by this method they will see all that come ashore, and cause less noise than if there were more of them. It was by this method they caught the most ; and this is the method by which the Americans take them. Nothing is more certain, than that all the turtle which are found about this ishnid come here for the sole purpose of laying their eggs, for they met with none but females ; and of all those whicii were caught, not one had any food worth mention- ing in its stomach ; a sure sign that they must have been a long time without any ; and this may be the reason why the flesh of them is not so good as some they had eaten on the coast of New South Wales, which were caught on the spot where they fed. On the 9ih of June, at noon, made the Island of Fernando de Noronha, bearing south-west by west half west, distant six or seven leagues, as thcv afterward found by the log. It appeared in detached and peaked hills, the largest of which looked like a church tower or steeple. After stBiidmg very near the rocks, they hoisted their colours, and then bore up round the north end of the isle, or rather round a group of little isles ; for they could see that the land was divided by narrow channels There is a strong fort on the one next the main island, where there are several others, all of which seemed to have every advantage that nature can give them ; and they are so disposed as wholly to command all the anchoring and landing places about the island. This road seems to be well sheltered from the south and east winds. One of the seamen had been on board a Dutch India ship, who put in at this isle on her way out in 1770. They were very sicklv, and in want of refreshments and water. The Portuguese supplied ihem with some buf- faloes and fowls ; and they watered behind one of the beaches, in a little pool. By reducing the observed latitude, at noon, to the peaked hill, its latitude will be 3 degrees 53 minutes south, and its longitude by the watch, carried on from St. Helena, is 33 degrees 34 minutes west. On the 11th, at three o'clock in the afternoon, they crossed the equator in the longitude of 32 degrees 14 minutes west. At five o'clock in the evening of the 13th cf July, made the Island of Faval, one of the Azores, and soon after that of Pico. Fresh provisions for present use may be got, such ?.s beef, vegetables, and fruit ; and hogs, sheep, and poultry for sea stock, all at a pretty reasonable price. The bullocks and hogs are very good, but the sheep are small and wretchedly poor. The principal produce of Fayal is wheat and Indian corn, with which they supply Pico and some of the other isles. The chief town is called Villa de Horta. It is situated at the bottom of the bay, close to the edge of the sea, and is defended by two castles, one at ersch end of the town, and a wall of stone-work, extending along the sea-shore from the one to the other. Fayal, although the most noted for wines, does not raise suf- ficient for its own consumption. This article is raised on Pico, where there is no road for shipping ; but being brought to De Horta, and from JAMES COOK. 267 thenco shipped abroad, chiefly to America, it has acquired the name of Fayal wine. On the 29th they made the land near Plymoulh. The next morning anchored at Spilhead : and the same day Captain Cook landed at Ports- mcnUh.and set out for London in coiiipaiiy with Messrs. Wales, Forsier, and Hodi^es. CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE.— 1776-80. CAPTAIN CooK havincj, on the 9th day of February, 1776-, received a commission to command his majesty's sloop the llesolutioii, went on board the next day, hoisted the pendant, and be^an to enter men. At tlie same time the Discovery, of three hundred tons burthen, was purciiased into the service, and the connnand of her given to Captain Clerke, who had been his second lieutetiant on board the Resolution, m the second voyage round the world. As they were to touch at Otaheite and the Society Islands, it had been determined not to omit this opportunity (the only one ever likely to hap- pen) of carrying Omai back to his native country. He left London with a mixture of regret and satisfaction. He was furnished, by his majesty, with an ample provision of every article which, during the intercourse with his country, they had observed to be in any estiinaiion there, either as useful or as ornamental. He had, besides, received many presents of the same nature from Lord Sandwich, Mr. Banks, and several other gentlemen and ladies of his acquaintance. In short, every method had been employed, both during his abode in England and at his departure, to make him the instrument of conveying to the inhabitants of the islands of the Pacific Ocean the most e.xalted opinion of the greatness and generosity of the liritish nation. The Resolution sailed on the 12th of July, the Discovery being to follow her. At four in the afternoon of the 3 1st saw Teneritfe, and steered for the eastern part. Having completed their water, and got on board every other thing they wanted at this island, weighed anchor on the 4th of August, and [jrocecded on their voyage, with a hne gale at north-east. On the 17th of October had sight of the Cape of Good Hope ; and the next day anchored in Table Bay, in four fa. horns water. In the morning of the 10th of November the Discovery arrived in the bay. Captain Clerke had sailed from Plymouth on the 1st of August, and should have been here a week sooner, if the gale of wind had not blown him off the coast. In the morning of the 30th they repaired on board. At five in the afternoon a breeze sprung up at south-east, with which they weighed, and stood out of the bay. On the 13th of December, at noon, saw land extending from south-east by south to south-east by ea*t. Upon a nearer approach, found it to be two islands. The distance from the one to the other is about five leagues. They seemed to have a rocky and bold ^hore ; and, excepting the south-east parts, where the land is rather low and flat, a surface composed of barren mountains, whichrise to a considerable height, and whose summits and sides were covered with snow. These two islands, as also four others which lie from nine to twelve dcijrees of longitude more to the east, and nearly in the same latitude, were discovered by Captains Mario.n du Fresne and Crozet, F.rench navigators, in January, 1778. The two ihey now saw were called Prince Edward's Islands, 268 VOYAGES HOUND THE WORLD. after his majesty's fourth son ; and the other four by the name of Marion's and Crozet's Islands, to cninmemorate their discoverers. On the 34iii, in ihc morning, the fog clearing away a little, they saw land, bearing south-south-cast, an island of considerable height, and about three leagues in circuit. Soon after saw another of the same magnitude, one league to the eastward ; and between these two, in the direction of south-east, some smaller ones. In the direction of south by east half east, from the east end of the first island, a third high island was seen. They did but just weather the island last mentioned. It is a high round rock, which was nnmed Bligh's Cap. Soon after saw the land of which they had a' faint view in the morning. About the middle there appeared to be an inlet, for which they steered ; but, on approaching, found it was a bending in the coast, and therefore bore up, to go round Cape St. Louis. At daybreak, on 'he 25th, weighed with a gentle breeze at west ; and having wrought into a harbour, anchored in eight fathoms water, the bottom a fine dark sand. The Discovery did not get in till two in the afternoon. As soon as the ships were again out of Christmas Harbour, they steered along the coast, with a fine breeze at north-north-west, and clear weather. To another harbour they gave the name of Port Palliser, in honour of Admiral Sir Hugh Palliser. After leaving Kerguelen's land they steered east by north, intending, in obedience to instructions, to touch next at New Zealand. On the •24th of January, at three o'clock in the morning, discovered the coast of Van Diemen's Land, bearing north-west. They stood for Adventure Bay, and anchored in it at four o'clock. In the afternoon they were agreeably surprised, at the place where they were cutting wood, with a visit from some of the natives — eight men and a boy. They approached witiiout betraying any marks of fear, or rather with the greatest confidence imaginable ; for none of them bad any weapons. They were quite naked, and wore no ornaments ; unless we consider as such, and as a proof of their love of finery, some large punctures or ridges raised on diflerent parts of their bodies, some in straight, and others in curved lines. They were of the common stature, but rather slender. Their skin waa black, and also their hair, which was as woolly as that of any native of Guinea; but they were not distinguished by remarkable thick lips nor flat noses. On the contrary, their features were far from being disagree- able. They had pretty good eyes ; and their teeth were tolerably even, but very dirty. Most of them had their hair and beards smeared with a red ointment ; and some had their faces also painted with the same composition. Van Diemen's Land has been twice visited before. It was so named by Tasman, who discovered it in November, 1642. From that time it had escaped all farther notice by European navigators, till Captain Furneaux touched at it in March, 1773. The land is, for the most part, of a good height, diversified with hills and valleys, and everywhere of a greenish hue. It is well wooded : and if one may judge from appearances, and from what they met with in Adventure Bay, is not ill supplied with water. The best, or what is most convenient for ships that touch here, is a rivulet, which is one of several that fall into a pond that lies behind the beach at the head of the bay. It there mixes with the sea water, so that it must be taken up abo.ve this pond, which may be done without any great trouble. Fire wood js to be got, with great ease, in several placw. JAMES COOK. 269 At eight in the morning of the 30ih of January, a light breeze spring- ing up- at west, they weighed anchor, and put to sea from Adventure Bay. On the lOih of February discovered the land of New Zealand. The part they saw proved to be Rock's Point, about eight or nine leagues dis- tant. They now steered for Stephens's Island, which they came up with at nine o'clock at night ; and at ten ne.xt morning anchored in their old station, in Queen Charlotte's Sound. They had not been long at anchor before several canoes, filled with natives, came alongside of the ships, but very few would venture on board, which appeared the more extra- ordinary, as Cook was well known to them all. There was one man in p.irticular among them, whom he had treated with remarkable kindness during the whole of his stay when last here. Yet now neither professions of friendship nor presents could prevail upon him to come into the ship. This shyness was to be accounted for only upon the supposition, that they were apprehensive they had revisited their country in order to revenge the death of Captain Furneaux's people. Seeing Omai on board now, whom they must have remembered to have seen on board the Adventure when the melancholy affair happened, and whose first conversation with them, as tiiey approached, generally turned on ll'.at subject, they must be well assured that the captain wis no longer a stranger to it. He thought it necessary, therefore, to use every endeavour to assure them of the continuance of his friendship, and that he should not disturb them on that account. Among their occasional visiters was a chief named Kahoora, who headed the party that cut off Captain Furneaux's people, and himself killed Mr. Rowe, the officer who commanded. To judge of the character of Kahoora by what they heard from many of his coun- trymen, he seemed to be more feared than beloved among them. Not satisfied with telling Cook that he was a very bad man, some of them even importuned him to kill him ; and were not a little surprised that he did not listen to them ; for, according to their ideas of equity, this ought to have been done. While at this place, curiosity prompted them to inquire into the cir- cumstances attending the melancholy fate of their countrymen ; and Omai was made use of as interpreter for this purpose. Pedro, and the rest of the natives present, answered all the questions that were put to them on the subject without reserve, and like men who are under no dread of punishment for a crime of which they are not guilty ; for they already knew that none of them had been concerned in the unhappy transaction. They said, that while the seamen were sitting at dinner, surrounded by fc-everal of the natives, some of the latter stole, or snatched from them, some bread and fish, for which they were beat. This being resented, a quarrel ensued, and two New Zealanders were shot dead, by the only two muskets that were fired ; and before the people had time to discharge a third, or to load again those that had been fired, the natives rushed ni, overpowered them with numbers, and put them all to death. Pedro and his companions, besides relating the history of the massacre, made them acquainted with the very spot that was the scene of it. It is at the corner of the cove on the right hand. They pointed to the place of the sun, to mark at what hour of the day it happened ; and, according to this, it must have been late in the afternoon. They also showed the place where the boat lay ; and it appeared to be about two hundred yards distant from that where the crew were seated. One of their number, a black servant of Captain Furneaux, was left in the boat to take care of her. Fpr 'J9m? tiip? befgr? they arriv.sd at New Zea!an(^, Oiaai ha4 expressed 270 VOYAGES ROUNS THE WORLD. a desire to ta •, but, at the same time, it conveys an idea of tke m St exuberant fertiliij , whether we respect the places improved by ait, or those still in a natural state; both which yield all their vegetable pro- ductions with the grea est vigour and perpetual verdure. On the lOih, at eight o'clock in the morning, they weighed anchor, and were enabled to stretch away for Middleburg, or Eooa, (as it is called by the inhabitantJ,) where they anciiored at eight o'clock the next mr.rning. Cook put as^ .ore, at this island, a ram and two ewes of the Cape of Good Hope bieed of sheep, entrusting them to the care of Taoofa, who seemed prcud of his charge. It was fortunate, perhaps, that Mareewagee, to wt om he had given them, slighted the present. Eooa not having as yet got any dogs upon it, seemed to be a more proper place than Tongataboo fu the rearing of sheep. As they lay at anchor, t.iis island bore a very different aspect frcm any they had lately seen, and f( rrned a most beautiful landscape. It is higher than any they had passed iince leaving New Zealand, and from its top, which is almost flat, declines very gently toward the sea. As the other isles o,' this cluster are leve. , the eye can discover nothing but the trees that cover thein ; but here the land, rising gently upward, preseiits an extensive prospect, where grcves of trees are only interspersed at irregu- lar distances, in beautiful disorder, and the rest covered with grass. Near the shori>, again, it is quite si aded with various trees, among which are the habitations of the natives, and to the right of their station was one of the most e.xtensive groves «*-. cocoa palms they had ever seen. On th« 13th ?. parly made an e.xcursioR to the highest part of the island, which was a little to the right of the s.'iips, in order to have a full view of the counvvy. J^bcut half-way up, thty crossed a deep valley, the bottom and sides of v\'h ch, though composed if hardly anythintr but coral rocks, woM clothed w ,ti trees. Soon a ter they weighed, and with alight breeze at south-east stood out to sei , and then Taoofa, and a (t w other natives that were in tha ship, JAMES COOK. 277 left them. According to the information they receivtd here, this archi- pelago is very extensive. Above 1.50 islands were reckoned up to them by the natives, who made use of bits of leaves to ascertain their number ; nnd Mr. Anderson, with his usual diligence, even procured all their names. Fifteen of them are said to be high or hilly, such as Toofoa and Eooa ; and thirty-five of them large. Of these only three were seen this voyage : Hapaee, (which is considered by the natives as one island,) Tongataboo, and Eooa, of the size of the unexplored ihirty-tvvo, nothing more c.in be mentioned, but that they must be all larger than Annamooka ; wliicli those from wiiom they had received their information ranked among the smaller isles. Some, or indeed several of this latter denomination, are mere spots, without inhabitants. But it must be left to future navigators to introduce into the geography of this part of the South Pacific Ocean the exact situation and size of near a hundred more islands in this neigh- bourhood, which they had not an opportunity to e.xplore. At eleven o'clock in the morning of the Sth of August, land was seen, bearing norlh-north-east, nine or ten leagues distant. At first it appeared in detached hills, like separate islands ; but as they drew nearer, found that they were all connected. Two canoes having advanced to about the distance of a pistol shot from the ship, there stopped. After making several unsuccessful attempts to induce these people to come aloiitjside, they made sail to the north, but not without getting the niuie of their island, which they called Toobouai. It is situated in the latitude of 23 degrees 25 minutes south, and in 210 degrees 37 minutes east longitude. Its greatest extent, in any direction, exclusive of the reef, is not above five or six miles. At daybreak, on the morning of the 12th, they saw the Island of Maitea. Soon after, Ofaheitc made its appearance. A chief, whom thev had known before, named Ootee, and Omai's brother-in-law, who chanced to be now at this corner of the island, and three or four more persons, all of whom knew Omai before he embarked with Captain Furnea\ix, came on board. Yet there was nothing tender or striking in their meet- ing. On the contrary, there seemed to be a perfect indifference on both sides, till Omai, having taken his brother down into the cabin, opened the drawer where he kept his red feathers, and gave him a few. This being presently known among the rest of the natives upon deck, the face of affairs was entirely turned, and Ootee, who would hardly speak to Omai before, now begged that they might be fayos, (friends,) and ex- change names. Omai accepted of the lionour, and confirmed it with a present of red feathers ; and Ootee, by way of return, sent ashore for a hog. Soon after they had anchored, Omai's sister came on board to see him. They were happy to observe that, much to the honour of both, their meeting was marked with expressions of the tenderest affection, easier to be conceived than to be described. Early in the morning of the 1st of September, a messenger arrived from Towha, to acquaint Otoo that he h:ul killed a man to be sacrificed to the Eatooa, to implore the assistance of the god against Eimeo, which had revolted from the authority of Otaheite. This act of worship was to be performed at the great Moral at Attahooroo ; and Otoo's presence, it seems, was absolutely necessary on that solemn occasion. That the offering of human sacrifices is part of the religious institutions of this island, has been mentioned by M. de Bougainville, on the authority of the nalite whom he carried with him to France. The unhappy victim offered to the object jjf their worship upon thii 24 278 VOTA-GBS -ftbTrND tHE "W6H.L1>. occasion seemed to be a middle-aged man ; and, as they were told, w«« a toutmi, that is, one of the lowest class o the people. Those who are devoted 10 suffer, in order to perform this bloody act of worship, are never annrised of their fate, till the blow is givea that puts an end to their ex- istence Whenever any one of the great chiefs thinks a human sacrifice necessary, on any particular emergency, he pitches upon the victim. Some of his tru'^ly servants are then sent, who fall upon him suddenly, and put hwn to death with a club, or by stoning him. The king is next acquainted with it, whose presence at the solemn rites thai follow is absolutely necessary. . ^ , •. .. At daybreak, in the morning of the 30th, after leaving Otaheite, they stood for the north end of Eimeo ; the harbour which they wished to ex- amine bem^.' at ihat part of it. Omai, in his canoe, having arrived there lona before°them, had taken some necessary measures to show the place. Thfs harbour, which is called Taloo, is situated upon the north side of the island, in the district of Oboonohoo, or Poonohoo. It runs in south, or south by east, between the hills, above two miles. For security and goodness of its bottom, it is not inferior to any harbour at any of the islands in this ocean. On the 2d Maheine, the chief of the island, paid them a visit. He ap- proached the ship with great caution, and it required some persuasion to get him on board. Probably he was under some apprehensions of mis- chief from them, as friends of the Otaheiteans ; these people not being able to comprehend how they can be friends with any one, without adopt- iiicr, at the same time, his cause against his enemies. Maheine was accompaijied by his wife, who is sister to Oamo, of Otaheite. This chief, who, with a few followers, has made himself in a manner independent of Otaheite, is between forty and fifty years old. He is bald-headed, which is rather an uncommon appearance in these islands at that age. He wore a kind of turban, and seemed ashamed to show his head. Having left Eimeo with a gentle breeze and fine weather, at daybreak the next morning saw Huaheine. At noon they anchored at the north entrance of what re harbour, on the west side of the island. Their ar- rival brought all the principal people of the island to the ships the next morning, being the 13ih. This was just what they wished, as it was high time to think of settling Omai ; and the presence of these chiefs would enable Cook to do it in the most satisfactory manner. One of them im- mediately expressed himself to this effect: "that the whole is^land of Huaheine, and everything in it, were the captain's ; and that, therefore, he might give v^'hat portion of it lie pleased to his friend." Omai, who, like the rest of his countrymen, seldom sees things beyond the present moment, was gready pleased to hear this, thinking, no doubt, that he should be very liberal, and give him enough. Upon this, some chiefs, who had left the assembly, were sent for ; and, after a short consultation among themselves, the request was granted by general consent, and the ground immediately pitched upon, adjoining to the house where the meet- ing was held. The extent along the shore of the harbour was about two hundred yards ; and its depth, to the fool of the hill, somewhat more ; but a proportional part of the iiill was included in the grant. Omai now began seriously to attend to his own affairs, and repented heartily of his ill-judged prodigality while at Otaheite. He found at Hua- heine a brother, a sister, and a brother-in-law — the sister being married. But these did not plunder him, as he had lately been by his other relationg. As soon as Omai was sellied in his new habitation, Cook began to think JAMES COOK. 279 of l«aving the island ; and got overytliing ofT from the shore this nveiiing, except the horse and mare, nnd a goat big wiih kid, which wpre left in the possession of his friend, with whom they were now tiiially lo part. Ho also gave him a boar and two sows of trie Enghsh breed ; arid he had got a sow or two of his own. The horse covered the mare while at Oiaheite ; so that the iniroduclion of a breed of horses into these islands is likely to have succeeded by this valuable present. He had picked up at Oiaheite four or five Umlous ; the two New Zealand youlhs lemained with him ; and his brother, and some others, joined him at Huaheine ; so that his family consisted already of eight or ten persons, if that can be called a family to which not a single female as yet belonged, nor was likely to belong, unless its master became less volatile. At present, Omai did not seem at all disposed to take unto himself a wife. The house which they erected for him was twenty-four feet by eighteen, and ten feet high. His European weapons consisted of a musket, bayonet, and cartouch box, a fovvhng-piece, two pair of pistols, and two or three swords or cutlasses. On the 2d of November, at four in the afternoon, they took the advan- taae of a breeze which tlien sprung up at east, and sailed out of the har- bour. Omai went ashore, after taking a very affectionate farewell of all the officers. He sustained himself with a manly resolution till he came to the captain ; then his utmost etTorts to conceal his tears failed ; and Mr. King, who went in the boat, said that he wept all the time in going ashore. The boat which carried Omai having returned to the ship, they stood over for Ulietea, where they intended to touch ne.xt. In the morning of the 7th of December, took the advantage of a light breeze ; and, v^ith the assistance of all the boats, got out to sea, with the Discovery in company. As soon as they were clear of the harbour, they steered for Bolabola. Oreo, and six or eight men more from Ulietea, took a passage with them. Indeed most of the natives in general, except the chief himself, would have gladly taken a passage to England. At sunset, beintr the length of the south point of Bolabola, they shortened sail, and spent the night, making short boards. At daybreak, on the 8ih, made sail for the harbour, which is on the west side of the island. After leaving Bolabola, they steered to the northward. On the 24th, after daybreak, land was discovered. Upon a nearer approach, it was found to be one of those low islands so common in this ocean ; that is, a narrow bank of land enclosing the sea within. A few cocoa nut trees were seen in two or three places ; but, in general, the land had a very barren appearance. As they kept their Christmas here, it was called Christmas Island. They judged it to be about fifteen or twenty leagues in circumference. On the 2d of January resumed their course to the north. At daybreak in the morning of the 18ih, an island made its appearance, bearing north- east by east ; and soon after saw more land bearing north, and entirely detached from the former. Latitude at this time, 21 degrees 12 minutes north, and longitude 200 degrees 41 minutes east. At this time they were in some doubt whether the land was inhabited ; but this doubt was soon cleared up, by seeing some canoes coming off from the shore toward the ships. They had from three to six men each ; and, on their approach, they were agreeably surprised to find that they spoke the language of Otaheite and of the other islands lately visited. Cook, in the course of his voyages, never before met with the natives of any place so much asto- aiihed hs these were upon entering a ship. Their eyes were continual!) 280 VOYAGES ROUNL' THE WORLD. flying from object to object ; the wildness of their looks and gestures fully expressing their entire ignorance abouteverylhing they saw, strongly mark- jna that, Till now, they had never been visited by Europeans. Tlie ships being stationed, Cook went ashore, with three armed boats and twelve marines, to examine the water and to try the disposition of the inhabitants. The very instant he leaped on land, the collected body of natives all fell flat upon their faces, and remained in that very humble posture till, by expressive signs, he prevailed upon them to rise. They then brought a great many small pigs, which they presented to hirn, with plantain trees, using much the same ceremonies practised on such occa- sions at the Society and ^iher islands. A trade was set on foot for hogs and potatoes, which the peo|jle gave iu exchange for nails and pieces of iron formed into something like chisels. They met with no obstruction in watering ; on the contrary, th- natives assisted the men in rolling the casks to and from the pool, and readily performed whatever they required. At daybreak, on the 3lth, they found that the currents had carried the ship to the north-west and north ; so that the west end of the island, upon which they had been, called Atooi by the natives, bore east, one league distant ; another island, called Oreehoua, west by south ; and the high land of a third island, called Oneeheow, from south-west by west to west-south-west. Of what number this newly-discovered archipelago consists must be left for future investigation. They saw five, whose names, as given by the natives, are Woahoo, Atooi, Oneeheow, Oreehoua, and Tahoora. They named the whole group the Sandwich Islands, in honour of the Earl of Sandwich. Those they saw are situated between the latitude of 21 degrees 30 minutes and 22 degrees 15 minutes north, and between the longitude of 190 degrees 20 minutes and 20 1 degrees 30 minutes east. The inhabitants are of a middling stature, firmly made, with some ex- ceptions, neither remarkable for a beautiful shape, nor for striking features, which rather express an openness and good-nature, than a keen intelligent disposition. They are vigorous, active, and most expert swimmers ; leaving their canoes upon the most triflinj occasion, diving under them, and swim- ming to others, though at a great distance. It was very common to see women with infants at the breast, when the surf was so high that they could not land in the canoes, leap overboard, and, without endangering their little ones, swim to the shore through a sea that looked dreadful. After the Discovery had joined, they stood away to the northward. On the 6th of March, beinur in the latitude of 41 degrees 10 minutes north, and the longitude of 234i degrees east, at daybreak the next morning the long lookftd-for coast of New Albion was seen, distant ten or twelve leagues. In the morning of the 20th, standing to the north-east, they again saw the land. Between two points the shore forms a large bay, which they called Hope Bay ; hoping, from the appearance of the land, to find in it a good harbour. The event proved they were not mistaken. Three canoes came off to the ship ; in one of these were two men, in another six, and in the tliird ten. Having come pretty near, a person in one of the last two stood up, and made a long harangue, inviting them to land by his gestures. At the same time he kept strewing handsfulof feathers toward them, and some of his companions threw handsful of a red dust or powder in the same manner. The person who played the orator wore the skin of some animal, and held in each hand something which rattled as he kept shaking it. A great many canoes, filled with the natives, were about the ships, and JAMES COOK. 281 a trade commenced, which was carried on with the strictest honesty on both sides. The articles they offered for sale were skins of various animals, such as bears, wolves, foxes, deer, racoons, polecats, martins, and in particular of the sea-otters, which are found at the islands east of Kam- tschatka. Besides the skins in their native shape, they also brought gar- ments made of them, and another sort of clothing made of the bark of a tree, or some Elant like hemp ; weapons, such as bows, arrows, atid spears, fish-hooks, and instruments of various kinds, wooden vizors of many dif- ferent monstrous figures, a sort of woollen stuff, or blanketing, bags filled with red ochre, pieces of carved work, beads, and several other little or- naments of thin brass and iron, shaped like a horse-shoe, which they hang at their noses, and several chisels, or pieces of iron, fixed to handles. From their possessing which metals, they had either been visited before by some civilized nation, or had connexions with tribes on their continent, who had communication with them. But the most extraordinary of all the articles brought to the ships for sale, were human skulls and hands not yet quite stripped of the flesh, which they made their people plainly understand they had eaten ; and, indeed, some of them had evident marks they had been upon the fire. Thev had but too much reason to suspect, from this circumstance, that the horrid practice of feeding on their ene- mies is as prevalent here as at New Zealand and other South Sea Islands. For the various articles which they brought, they took in exchange knives, chisels, pieces of iron and tin, nails, looking-glasses, buttons, or any kind of metal. Glass beads they were not fond of, and cloth of every sort they rejected. On their arrival in this inlet. Cook had honoured it with the name of King George's Sound ; but afterward found that it is called Nootka by the natives. The entrance is situated in the east corner of Hope Bay, in the latitude of 49 degrees 33 minutes north, and in the Longitude of 233 degrees 12 minutes east. Having put to sea on the evening of the 26th, with strong signs of an approaching storm, these signs did not deceive them. Fortunately the wind veered no farther southerly than south-east ; so that, at daylight the next morning, they were quite clear of the coast. In latitude 58 degrees 53 minutes, and longitude 220 degrees 53 minutes, the summit of an elevated mountain appeared above the horizon, bearing north 26 degrees west, and, as was afterward found, forty leagues distant. They supposed it to be Beering's Mount St. Elias ; and it stands by that name in their chart. To an inlet, which they now entered, Cook gave the name of Prince William's Sound. To judge of this sound from what they saw of it, it occupies at least a degree and a half of latitude, and two of longitude, exclusive of the arms or branches, the extent of which is not known. The natives, who came on several visits, were generally not above the common height, though many of them were under it. They were square, or strong- chested ; and the most disproportioned part of their body seemed to be their heads, which were very large, with thick short necks ; and large broad or spreading faces, which, upon the whole, were flat. Their eyes, though not small, scarcely bore a proportion to the size of their faces ; and their noses had full, round points, hooked or turned up at the tip. Their teeth were broad, white, equal in size, and unevenly set. The'ir hair was black, thick, straight, and strong, and their beards, in genewl, thin or wanting ; but the hairs about the lips of thoso who have them were stiff or bristly, and frequently of a brown colour And several of ths ^Werly men had even large and thick, but straight, beard?, 24* 282 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. Afler leaving this sound, they steered to the sonth-west, with a gentle breeze at novth-north.e.st. From Capa Bede the coast trended north- east by east, with a chain of mountains inland, extending m ihe sanae direction The land on the coast was woody, and there seemed to be no deficiency of harbours. They discovered low land in the middle of an inlet, extending from north-north-east to north-east by east half east. As it continued calm all day, they did not move till eight o clock in the evtnina, when, with a light breeze f^t east, they weighed and siood to the north, up the inlet. Until they got thus far, the water had retained the same decree of saltness at low as at high water, and at both periods was as salt as that in the ocean. But now the marks of a river displayed themselves. The water taken up this ebb, when at the lowest, was found 10 be considerably fresher than any hitherto tasted : insomuch that Gook was convinced ihey were in a large river, and not in a strait, communicating with the northern seas. B; means of this river and its several branches a very e.xtensive inland communication lies open. They traced it as high as the latitude of 61 degrees 30 minutes, and the longitude of 210 degrees, which is seventy leagues or more from its entrance, without seeing the least appearance of its source. If the discovery of this great river, which promises to vie wiih the most considerable ones already known to be capable of extensive inland navigation, should prove of use either to the present or to any future age, the time spent in it ought to be the less regretted. Captain Cook having here left a blank, which he had not filled up with any particular name. Lord Sandwich directed, with the greatest propriety, that it should be called Cook's River. As soon as the ebb tide made they weighed, and, with a light breeze, plied down the river. At eight in the evening the Island of St. Hermo- genes extended from south half east to south-south-east a quarter east. On the 17th the wind was between west and north-west, a gentle breeze, and sometimes almost calm. The weather was clear, and the air sharp and dry. At noon the continent extended from south-west to north by cast, the nearest part seven leagues distant. A large group of islands, lying about the same distance from the continent, extended from south 26 degrees west, to south 52 degrees west. They had now land in every direction. That to the south extended to the south-west, in a ridge of mountains ; but their sight could not determine whether it composed one or more islands. They afterward found it to be only one island, and known by the name of Oonalaska. Mr. Anderson, the surgeon, who had been lingering under a consump- tion for more than twelve months, expired, 2d of August. He was a sensible young man, an agreeable companion, well skilled m his own pro- fession, and had acquired considerable knowledge in other branches of science. Soon after he had breathed his last, land was seen to the west- ward, twelve leagues distant. It was supposed to be an island ; and, to perpetuate the memory of the deceased, for whom Cook had a very great regard, he named it Anderson's Island. The point of land which Cook named Cape Prince of Wales is the more remarkable, by being the most western extremity of all America hitherto known. It is situated in the latitude of 65 degrees 4(5 minutes, and in the longitude of 16S degrees 5 minutes west. At daybreak, on the 10th, re- sumed their cour.^c to the west for the land seen the preceding evening. Between the south-west extreme and a point which bore west, two leagues distant, the shore forms a large bay, in which they anchored at ten o'clock ill the forenoon. At first ihey supposed this land to be a part of the island JAMES COOK. 283 of Alaschka. But from the figure of the coast, the situation of the oppo- site shore of America, and from the lonaitinJe, they soon Uegun to thmk that it was, more probably, the country of the Tschutsiii, or i.he eastern extremity of Asia, explored by Beermg, in 1723. A breeze of wind springing up at north, they weighed, and stood to the westward, which course soon brought them into deep wafer ; and, during the 12th, plied to the north, both coasts being in sight, hut they kept nearest to itiat of America. Next morning the wind blew a strong gale, which abated at noon : and the sun shining out, they were, by observation, in the latitude of 63 de- grees 18 minutes. Some time before noon next day perceived a briglit- ness in the northern horizon, like that rtflccted from ice, commoidy cailt^d the blink. It was little noticed, from a supposition that it was improliable they should meet with ice so soon. About an hour after, the sight of a large field of ice left them no longer in doubt. At half-pasi two tacked close to the edge of the ice, in twenty-two fathoms water, being then in the latitude of 70 degrees 41 minutes, not being able to stand on any farther. They now stood to the sonihward ; at this time the weather, which had been hazy, clearing up a lilile, they saw lanrl extending from south to south- east by east, about three or four miles distant. The eastern extreme forms a point, which was much eucunibered with ice ; for which reason it obtained the name of Icy Cape. Its latitude is 70 degrees 29 minutes, and its longitude 163 degrees 20 minutes. Having now fully satisfied himself, Cook thought it high time to think of leaving these northern regions, and to retire to some place during the winter where he might procure refreshments for his people, and a small supply of provisions. Petropaulowska, or the harbour of St Peter and St. Paul, in Kamlschatka, did not appear likely to furnish either the one or the other, for so large a number of men. No place was so conveniently within reach as the Sandwich Islands. To them, therefore, ihey de- termined to proceed. On the 2(1 of October, at daybreak, saw the Island of Oonalaska, bearing south-east. At one o'clock, in the afternoon of the 3d, they anchored in Samganoodha Harbour. They got plenty of fish, at first mostly salmon, both fresh and dried, which the natives brought. Some of the fresh salmon was in high perfection, but there was one sort, called hook- nosed, from the figure of its head, that was but inditferent. They drew the seine several times at the head of the bay, and caught a good many salmon-trout, and once a halibut that weighed two hundred and fifty-fout pounds. The fishery failing, they had recourse to hooks and lines. A boat was sent out every morning, and seldom returned without eiglit or ten halibut, which was more than sulBcient to serve all tlie people. The halibut were excellent, and there were few who did not prefer them to salmon. In the morning of the 26th of October, they put to sea fro-m Samga- noodha harbour ; and as the wind was southerly, stood away to the west- ward. They continued to steer to the southward till daylight in the morning of the 25th of November, at which time they were in the latitude of 20 degrees 55 minutes. At daybreak, next morning, land was seen extending from south-south-east to west. It was supposed that they saw the extent of the land to ti»e east, but not to the west. They were now satisfied that the group of the Sandwicli Islands had been only imperfectly discovered ; as those of them visited in their progress northward all lie to the leeward of their present station. Seeing some canoes coming off, they brought-to. As soon as they got alongside, many of the people, who 284 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. conducted them came into the ship, without the least hesitation. They iojjiid them to be of the same nation with the inhabitants of the islands more to leeward, already visited ; and they knew of their having been there. In the evening they discovered another island to windward, which the natives call "Owyhee. The name of that off which they had been for some days is Mowec. At seven in the evening were close up with the north side of Owyhee. In the morning of the 2d, they were surprised to see the summits of the mountains covered with snow. They did not appear to be of any extraordinary height ; and yet, in some places, the snow seemed to be of a considerable depth, and to have lain there some time. At daybreak, on the 16th, seeing the appearance of a bay, Cook sent Mr. Bliwh, with a boat from each ship, to examine it, being at this time three leagues off. At eleven o'clock in the forenoon, they anchored in the bay called by the natives Karakakooa. The ships continued to be much crowded with natives, and were surrounded by a multitude of canoes. They had nowhere, in the course of their voyages, seen so numerous a body of people assembled at one ])kice. For, besides those whn had come off in canoes, all the shore of the bay was covered with spectators, and many hundreds were swimming round the ships like shoals of fish. They could not but be struck with the singularity of this scene ; and perhaps there were few on board who now lamented their having failed to find a northern passage homeward last summer. To this disappointment they yvved having it in their power to revisit the Sandwich Islands, and to enrich the voyage with a discovery which, though the last, seemed in many respects to be the most important that had hitherto been made by Euro- peans, throughout the extent of the Pacific Ocean. Karakakooa Bay is situated on the west side of the Island of Owyhee, in a du trict called Akona. It is about a mile in depth, and bounded by two low points of land, at the distance of half a league. On the north point, which is llat and barren, stands the village of Kowrowa ; and at the bottom of the bay, near a grove of tall cocoa nut trees, there is another village of a more considerable size, called Kakooa ; between them runs a high rocky cliff, inaccessible from the sea-shore. As soon as the inhabitants perceived their intention of anchoring in the bay, they came off from the shore in astonishing numbers, and expressed their joy by singing and shouting, and exhibiting a variety of wild and ex- travagant gestures. The sides, the decks, and rigging of both ships, were soon completely covered with them ; and a multitude of women and boys, who had not been able to get canoes, came swimming round in shoals, many of whom, not finding room on board, remained the whole day playing in the water. Among the chiefs who came on board the Resolution, was a young man, called Pareea, whom they soon perceived to be a person of great authority. On presenting himself to Captain Cook, he told him, that he was Jakanee to the king of the island, who wiis at that time engaged on a military expedition at Mowce, and was expected to return within three or four days. A few presents from Captain Cooh attached him entirely to their interests, and he became exceedingly vse ful in the management of his countrymen. Kaneena, another of iheii chiefs, likewise attached himself to Captain Cook. Both these wer^ mer of strong and well-proportioned bodies, and of countenances remarkably pleasing. Their two friends, Pareea and Kaneena, brought cv board a third chief, named Koah, who was a priest, and had been, i" iv's youth, a distinguished warrior. He was a little old man, of m ein^^i-neci figure , JAMES COOK. 285 his eyes exceedingly sore and red, and his body covered with a white leprous scurf, the effects of an immoilerate use of the ava. Being led uito the cabin, he approached Captain Cook with great veneration, and threw over his shoulders a piece of red cloth, which lie had brought along with hitn. During the rest of the time they remained m the bay, whenever Captain Cook came on shore, he was attended by one of the priests, who went before him, giving notice that the Orono had landed, and ordering the people to prostrate themselves. The same person also constantly accom- panied him on the water, standing in the bow of the boat, with a wand in his hand, and giving notice of his approach to the natives, who were in canoes, on which they immediately left off paddling and lay down on theii faces till he had passed. Whenever he stopped at the observatory, Kai- leekeea and his brethren immediately made their appearance with hogs, cocoa nuts, bread fruit, &c., and presented them with the usual solemni- ties. It Was on these occasions that some of the infeiior chiefs frequently requested to be permitted to make an offering to the Orono. When this was granted, they presented the hog themselves, generally with evident marks of fear in their countenances ; while Kaireekeea and the priests chanted their accustomed hymns. The 25lh the king, in a large canoe, attended by two others, set out from the village, and paddled toward tho ships in great state. Their appearance was grand and magnificent. In the first canoe was Terreooboo and his chiefs, dressed in their rich fea- thered cloaks and helmets, and armed with long spears and daggers : iu the second came the venerable Kaoo, the chief of the priests, and his brethern, with their idols displayed on red cloth. These idols were busts of a gigantic size, made of wicker-work, and curiously covered with small feathers of various colours, wrought in the same manner with their cloaks. Their eyes were made of large pearl oysters, with a black nut fi.'ced in the centre ; their mouths were set with a double row of the fangs of dogs, and, together with the rest of their features, were strangely distorted. The third canoe was filled with hogs and various sorts of vegetables. As they went along, the priests in the centre canoe sung their hymns with great solemnity ; and, after paddling round the ships, instead of going on board, as was expected, they made toward the shore at the beach where the English were stationed. Early on the 4th of February they uninoored, and sailed out of the bay, with the Discovery in company, and were followed by a great number of canoes. On the 8lh, at daybreak, found that the foremast had aaain given away ; the fishes which were put on the head, in King George's or Nootka Sound, on the coast of America, being sprung, and the parts so very defective, as to make it absolutely necessary to replace them, and, of course, to unstep the mast. Stood off and on till daylight of the 13th, and dropped anchor nearly in the same place as before. Upon coming to anchor, they were surprised to faid their reception very different from what it had been on their first arrival ; no shouts, no bustle, no confusion ; but a solitary hay, with only here and there a canoe steal- ing close along the shore. The Discovery's cutter was stolen, during the night, from the buoy where it was moored. It had been Cook's usual practice, whenever anything of consequence was lost at any of the islands in this ocean, to get the king, or some of the principal earees, on board, and to keep them as hostages till it was restored. He immediately marched into the village, where he was received with the usual marks of respect. They found the old king just awoke from sleep : and, after a abort conversation about the loss of the cutter, from which Captain Cook 286 Voyages round the world. was convinced that he was in nowise privy to it, he invited him to return in the boat, and spend the day on board the Resolution. To this propo- sal the king readily consented, and immediately got up to accompany him. The^two boys were already in the pinnace, and the rest of the party near the water-side, when an elderlv woman, called Kanee-kabareea, the mother of the boys, and one of the king's favourite wives, came after him, and wifh many tears and entreaties besought him not to go on board. At the same time, two chiefs, who came along with her, laid hold of him, and, insisting that he should go no farther, forced him to sit down. The natives, who were colleciing in prodigiou.s numbers along the shore, and h-id probably been alirmed by the fiwng of the great guns, and the appearances of hostility in the bay, began to throng round Captain Cook and their king. He, therefore, finding that the alarm had spread too generally, and that it was in v-iin to think, any longer of getting him off without bloodshed, at last gave up the point. Though the enterprise which had carried ('aptain Cook on shore was abandoned, yet his person did not appear to have been in the least danger, till an accident happened which gave a fatal turn to the affair. The boats which had been stationed across the bay, having fired at some canoes at- tempting to get out, unfortunately had killed a chief of the first rank. The news of his death arrived at the village where the captain was, just as he had left the king, and was walking slowly toward the shore. The ferment it occasioned was very conspicuous ; the women and children were immediately sent otf, and the men put on their war-mats, and armed themselves with spears and stones. Several stones were thrown at the marines, and one of the earees attempted to stab Mr. Phillips. Captain Cook now fired his second barrel, loaded with ball, and killed one of the foremost of the natives A general attack with stones immediately followed, which was answered by a discharge of musketry from the ma- rines and the people in the boats. What followed was a scene of the utmost horror and confusion. Four of the marines were cut otf among the rocks in their retreat, and fell a sacrifice to the fury of the enemy ; three more were dangerously wounded, and the lieutenant, who had received a stab between the shoul- ders with a pahooa, having fortunately reserved his fire, shot the man who had wounded him just as he w,as going to repeat his blow. The unfortunate commander, the last time he was seen distinctly, was stand- ing at the water'.s edge, and calling out to the boats to cease firing, and to pull in. If it be true, that the marines and boatmen had fired without his orders, and that he was desirous of preventing any farther bloodshed, it is not improbable that his humanity, on this occasion, proved fatal to him ; for it was remarked, that while he faced the natives, none of them had offered him any violence, but that, having turned about to gi.ve his orders to the boats, he was stabbed in the back, and fell with his face into the water. On seeing him fall, the islanders set up a great shout, and his body was immediately dragged on shore, and surrounded by the enemy, v;ho, snatching the dagger out of each other's hands, showed a savage eagerness to have a share in his destruction. Thus fell their great and excellent commander, after a life of so much distinguished and successful enterprise ; his death, as far as regards him- self, cannot be reckoned premature, since he lived to finish the great work for which he seems to have been designed, and was rather removed from the enjoyment, than cut off from the acquisition of glory. How sincerely niB loss was felt and lamented by those who had so long found their ge- JAMES COOK. 287 nenii security in his skill and conduct, and every consolation under their hardships in his tenderness and humanity, it is neither necessary nor possible to describe ; much less to paint the horror with which they were struck, and the universal dejection and dismay vvliich followed so dreadful and unexpected a calamity. The 21st, Eappo and the king's son came on board, and brought with them the remaining bones of Captnin Cook, the barrel of his gun, his shoes, and some other trifles that beioni.'ed to iiim. Eapjjo took great pains to convince them that Terreooboo, Maiha inaiha, and himself, were most heartily desirous of peace ; that they had given ihe most convincing proof of it in their power ; and that they had been prevented from giving it sooner by the other chiefs, many of whom were still iheir enemies. Ha lamented, with the greatest sorrow, the death of six chiefs they had killed, some of whom, he said, were among their best friends. The cutter was taken away by Pareea's people ; and thai it had been broken up the ne.xt day. The arms of the marines, he assured them, had been carried off by the common people, and were irrecoverable, the bones of the chief alone liaving been preserved, as belonging to Terreooboo and the earees. Nothing now remained but to pprforin the last offices to their great and unfortunate commander. Eappo was dismissed with orders to taboo all the bay ; and in the afternoon, the bones having been put into a coffin, and the service read over them, they were committed to the deep with the usual military honours. They got clear of the land about ten o'clock, and hoisting in the boats, stood to the northward. Captain Clerke determined, without farther loss of lime, to proceed to Atooi. At eight in the morning weiglied, and stood to the northward till daylight on the 28th, when they bore away for that island. On the 8ih of March, at nine in the morning, weighed, and sailed toward Oneeheow, and at three in the afternoon anchored in twenty fathoms water, nearly on the same spot as in the year 1778.' On the 15th of March, at seven in the morning, weighed anchor, and on the 23d of April, at six in the morning, being in latitude 53 degrees 9 minutes, and longitude 160 degrees 7 minutes, on the fog clearing away, the land of America appeared in mountains covered with snow. On the 25th had a transient view of the entrance of Awatsha Bay ; but, in the present slate of the weather, were afraid of venturing into it. Having passed its mouth, which is about four miles long, they opened a large circular bason of twenty-five miles in circumference ; and at half-past four came to an anchor in six fathoms water, being afraid of running foul on a shoal, or some sunk rocks, which are said, by Muller, to lie in the channel of the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul. The middle of the bay was full of loose ice, drifting with the tide ; but the shores were still entirely blocked up with it. Great flocks of wild fowl were seen of vari- ous species ; likewise ravens, eajiles, and large flights of Greenland pigeons. They examined every corner of the bayvvith glasses, in search of the town of St. Peter and St. Paul ; which, according to the accounts given at Oonalaska, they had conceived to be a place of some strength and consideration. At length they discovered, on a narrow point of land to the north-north east, a few miserable log-houses and some conical huts raised on poles, amounting in all to about thirty ; which, from their Bituation, notwithstanding all the respect they wished to entertain for a Russian ostrog, they were under the necessity of concluding to be Petro- paulowska. In company with Major Behm, the governor, was Captain Shmaleff, 268 VOYAGES ROUND TftE WORLO. the second in command, and another officer, with the whole body of the merchants of the plnce. Tliey conducted them to the commander's hou*e, wliere they were received by his lady with great civilitv, and found tea and other refreshments prepared. After the first compliments were over, Mr. Webber was desired to acquaint the major with the object of th« journey, with their want of naval stores, tlour, and fresh provisions, and other necessaries for ihe ships' crews, and at ihe same time to assure him they were sensible, from what they hid already seen of the condition of the country about Awatsha Bay, they could not expect much assistance from him in tliat quarter. The houses in Bolcheresk, the capital, are all of one fashion, being built of logs, and thatched. That of the commander is much larger than the rest, consisting of three rooms of a considerable size, neatly prepared, and which might have been reckoned handsome if the talc, with which ihe windows were covered, had not given them a poor and disagreeable a|)pearance. The town consists of several rows of low buildings, each consisting of five or six dwellings, connected together with a long com- mon passage running the length of them, on one side of which is the kitchen and store-house, and on the other the dwelling apartments. Besides these, there are barracks for the Russian soldiers and Cossacks, a well-looking church, and a count-room, and, at the end of the town, a great number of halagnns, belonging to the Kamtschatdales. The in- habitants, taken altogether, amount to between five and six hundred. In the evening the m;ijor gave a hand.some entcrt;iininent, to which the principal people of the town of both se.xes were invited. The next morn- ing they applied privately to the merchant Fedositsch to purchase some tobacco for the sailors, who had now been upward of a twelvemonth without tliis favourite commodity. However, this, like all other transac- tions of the same kind, came immediately to the major's knowledge ; and they were soon after surprised to frnd in their house four bags of tobacco, weighing upward of 100 pounds each, which ho begged might be pre- sented, in the name of himself and the garrison under his command, to the sailors. On the 16th of .Tune, at daylight, weighed anchor, and stood out of the bay. At ten at night, July 5th, the weather becoming clear, they had an opportunity of seeing, at the same moment, the remarkable peaked hill near Cape Prmce of Wales, on the coast of America, and the east cape of Asia, with the two connected islandsof St. Diomede between them. On the 21st, the wind freshening and the fog clearing away, they saw the American coast to the south-east, at the distance of eight or ten leagues, and hauled in for it ; but were stopped again by the ice, and obliged to bear away to the westward, along the edge of it. Thus a con- nected solid field of ice rendering every effort they could make to a nearer approach to the land fruitless, they took a last farewell of a north-east passage to Old England. On the 22d of August, 1779, died Captain Charles Clcrke, in the thirty-eight year of his age. He died of a con- sumption, which had evidently commenced before he left Englan;', and of which he had lingered during the whole voyaoth, and almost without any current, though the tide rises six feet three inches. The new city of Conception, after the destruction of the old one by an earthtiuake, in 1751, was not ;e-olved on till 1763. The new town, which contains about 10,000 inhabitants, is the residence of the bishop, and of the major-general, who governs in tiie military depart- ment. This colony makes but little pro^'ress in pros[)erity or populaiion ; the influence of the government counteracts that of the climate. The productions of this kingdom, under proper manaL'ement, would suffice for the food and manufactures of half Europe, and yet tiie country is destitute of commerce. A few small vessels indeed arrived here yearly from Lima, with tobacco, sugar, and some articles of European manufacture, which the natives can only purchase at second or third hand ; heavy duties having been imposed upon them first at Cadiz, then at Lima, and after- ward on their entering Chili. They can only give in exchange wheat, (which is of little value,) hides, tallow, and a few planks ; so that the ba- lance of trade is always against Chili. The women wear a kind of plaited Eetticoat, formed of antique gold and silver stuffs. These petticoats, pwever, are never summoned upon duty but on gala-days, and may be entailed in a family, descending, in regular gradation, from the grand- mother to the granddaughter. A small number of females, however, are thus gorgeously habited ; the majority have barely sufficient to conceal their nakedness. At daybreak, on the I5th of March, La Perouse made the signal to prepare to sail. On the 17th, about noon, a light breeze sprung up, with which he got under way. On the 8th of April, about noon, they sav? Easter Island. The Indians were unarmed, except a few who had a kind of slight wooden club. Some of them assumed an apparent superiority over the others, which induced La Perouse to consider the former as chiefs, but he soon discovered that these selected persons were the most notorious offenders. Having but a few hours to remain upon the island, and wishing to employ his time to the best advantage, La Perouse left the care of the tent, and other particulars, to his first lieutenant, M. D'Escures. A division was then made of the persons engaged in the adventure ; one part, under the command of M. De Langle, was to pene- trate into the interior of the island to encourage and promote vegetation, by disseminating seeds, &c., in a proper soil ; and the other division undertook to visit the monuments, plantations, and habitations, within \he compass of a league of the establishment. The largest of the rude ousts upon one of the terraces is fourteen feet six inches in height, and the breadth and other particulars appeared to be proportionate. A small part of this island is under cultivation. It is, however, generally agreed that three days' labour of an Indian will procure him subsistence for a year. From the ease with which the necessaries of life are procured, La Pe- rouse supposed the productions of the earth were in common. He was con- vinced, indeed, that the houses were common, ai least to a whole village or district. One of these habitations near his tent was three hundred and ten feet in length, ten feet in breadth, and ten feet in height toward the 300 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. middle. The whole erection is capable of containing 200 people. It forms a kind of hamlet of itself, but is totally unfurnished. Two or three small houses appear at a little distance from it. La Perouse does not pretend to decide whether the women are common to a whole district, and the children to the republic : but he asserts that no Indian seemed to exercise the authority of a husband over any one of the females. If they are private property, it is a kind of which the possessors are very liberal. Returning about nooi to the tent, La Perouse found almost every man without either hat or handkerchief; so much had forbearance enco\iraged the audacity of the thieves, that he also experienced a similar depredation. An Indian, who had assisted him in descending from a terrace, rewarded himself for his trouble by taking away his hat. Some of them had dived under water, cut the small cable of the Astrolabe's boat, and taken away her grapnel. A sort of chief, to whom M. Ue Langle made a present of a male and female goat, received the animals with one hand, and robbed him of his handkerchief with the other. On the 28th of May they saw the mountains of Owyhee, covered with snow, and afterward those of Mowee, which are less elevated. About l.">() canoes were seen putting off from the shore, laden with fiuit and hogs, which the Indians proposed to exchange for pieces of iron of the French navigators. Most of them came on board of one or the other of the vessels, but they proceeded so fast through the water that thev filled alongside. The Indians were obliged to quit the ropes thrown them, and, leaping into the sea, swam after their hogs — when, taking them in their arms, they emptied their canoes of the water, and resumed their seat. After having visited a village, M. De Langle gave orders that six sol- diers, with a sergeant, should accompany him : the others were left upon the beach, under the command of M. de Pierrevert, the lieutenant ; to them was committed the protection of the ship's boats, from which not a single sailor had landed. The party re-embarked at eleven o'clock in very good order, and arrived on board about noon, where M. de Clonard had received a visit from a chief, of whom he had purchased a cloak, and a helmet adorned with red feathers ; he had also purchased a hundred hogs, a quantity of potatoes and bananas, plenty of stuffs, mats, and various other articles. On their arrival on board, the two frigates drag- ged their anchors ; it blew fresh from the south-east, and they were driving down upon the Island of Morokinne, which was however at a sufficient distance to give them time to hoist in their boats. La Perouse made the signal for weighing, but before "they could purchase the anchor, he was obliged to make sail, and drag it till" he had passed Aforokinne, to hinder him from driving past the channel. A fair wind accompanied the navigators on their departure from the Sandwich Islands. Whales and wild geese convinced them that they were approaching land. Early in the morning of the 23d they descried it ; a suilden dispersion of the fog opened to tliem the view of a Ion? chain of mountains covered with snow. They distinguished Beering's Mount St. Elias, on the north-west coast of America. While the navigators were at the entrance of a bav, they were con- tmually surrounded by the canoes of the Indians. In'exchange for iron they were offered fish and variety of skins, as well as sundry articles of dress ; and the natives displayed much ability in their commercial dealings ; but iron was more eagerly coveted than 'any other medium of barter. They indeed consented to take some ppwter pots and plates, but they received them with indifference. Iron was their favourite metal ; a dag- M. D£ LA PEROySE. 301 ger of it hung from the n^cks of many of them. The report of their arrival having spread itself to the adjacent parts, several canoes arrived, filled with otter-skins, which the natives bartered for knives, hatchets] and bar-iron. The sea otter is supposed to be more common here than in any part of America. The Astrolabe caught one, which probably had escaped from the Indians, as it was severely wounded. It weighed seventy pounds, and perhaps had attained its full growth. The sea otter is an amphibious animal, remarkable for the beauty of its skin. The Indians of Port Frani^ais call it skccter. Some naturalists have noticed it under the denomination of saricovicnne, but the description of that animal in Buffon has no affinity with this, which has no resemblance to the otter of Canada, nor to that of Europe. Having taken in as much wood and v/ater as was required, the navi- gators esteemed themselves the most fortunate of men, in having arrived at such a distance from Europe without having a sick person among them, or any one afflicted with the scurvy ; but a lamentable misfortune now awaited them. At the entrance of this harbour perished twenty brave seamen, in two boats, by the surf. On the 30th of July, at four in the afternoon. La Perouse got under way. This bay or harbour, to which he gave the name of Port des Fran- <;ais, is situated in 58 degrees 37 minutes north latitude, and 139 degrees 50 minutes west longitude. In different excursions, he says, he found the high-watermark to be firtf;en feet above the surface of the sea. The climate of this coast is infinitely milder than that of Hudson's Bay, in the same degree of latitude, fines were seen of si.x feet diameter and one hun- dred and forty feet in height. Vegetation is vigorous during three or four months of the year. The men wear different small ornaments, pendant from the ears and nose, scarify their arms and breasts, and file their teeth close to their gums, using, for the last operation, a sand-stone formed into a particular shape. They paint the face and body with soot, ochre, and plumbago, mixed with train-oil, making themselves most horrid figures. When completely dressed, their flowing hair is powdered, and plaited with the down of sea birds ; but perhaps only the chiefs of certain distinguished families are thus decorated. Their shoulders are covered with a skin, and the rest of the body remains naked, except the head, on which is generally worn a little straw-hat, plaited with great taste and ingenuity. Sometimes, indeed, the head is decorated with two horned bonnets of eagles' feathers. Their head-dresses are extremely various, the grand object in view being only to render themselves terrible, that they may keep their enemies in awe. Some Indians have skirts of otter-skins. A great chief wore a shirt composed of a tanned skin of the elk, bordered by a fringe of beaks of birds, which, when dancing, imitated the noise of a bell ; a common dress among the savages of Canada and other nations in the eastern parts of America. The passion of these Indians for gaming is astonishing, and they pursue it with great avidity. The sort of play to which they are most devoted, is a certain game of chance : out of tliirty pieces of wood, each distinctly marked like the French dice, they hide seven ; each plays in succession, and he who guesses nearest to the whole number marked upon the seven is the winner of the stake, which is usually a hatchet or a piece of iron. At length, after a very long run, on the 11 th of September, at three m the afternoon, the navigators got sight of Fort Monterey, and two three- masted vessels which lay in the road. The commander of these two ships having been informed, by the Viceroy of Mexico, of the probable arrival ?6 302 VOYAGftS ROUND THE WORLB. of the two French frigates, sent them pilots in the course 0/ the night Loretto, the o.ly presidency of UU Cal.fonua. is situatc.l on the east coast of this peninsula, and has a garrison of fifty-four troopers, who furnish detachments to fifteen missions ; the duties of which are performed by Doinimcian friars. About four thousand Indians, converted and residing in these fifteen parishes, are the sole produce of the lon^ labours of the iifferent reh>Tious orders which have succeeded each other. A small navy was established by the Spanish government in this port, under the orders of the Viceroy of Mexico, consisting of four corvettes of twelve Buns, and one goletta. They are destined to supply with necessaries the presidencies of'North California ; and they are sometimes despatched as packet-boats to Manilla, when the orders of the court require the utmost expedition. ., , ,. The company were received with all posstble pohteness and respect, the president of the missions, in his sacerdotal vestment, with the holy water in his hand, waited to receive them at the entrance of the church, which was splendidly illuminated, as on their highest festivals, he then conducted them to the foot of the high altar, where Te Dcum was sung in thanksgivings for their arrival. Before they entered the church they passed a range'of Indians : the parish church, though covered with straw, is neat, and llecorated with paintings copied from Italian originals. A picture of Hell is there represented, in which the imagination of Callot is absolutely exceeded ; but the senses of new converts must be struck with the most lively impressions. A representation of Paradise, placed opposite to that of Hell, is supposed to produce less etfect on them. The Indians, as well as the missionaries, rise with the sun, and devote an hour to prayers and mass, during which time a species of boiled food is prepared for them : it consists of barley-meal, the grain of which has been roasted previous to its being boiled. It is cooked in the centre of the square, in three large kettles. This repast is called atole by the Indians, who con- sider it as delicious ; it is destitute of salt and butter, and must con- sequently be insipid. The women have little more to attend to than their housewifery, their children, and the roasting and grirnling of several grains ; the latter operation is long and laborious, as they employ no other means than that of crushing it in pieces with a cylinder upon a stone. The converted Indians preserve those ancient usages which are not prohibited by their new religion ; the same cabins, games, and dresses. The dress of the richest consists of an otter-skin cloak, to cover their loins, and descend below the groin : the most indolent are satisfied with a simple piece of linen cloth, furnished by the mission to conceal their nakedness ; a cloak of rabbit-skin, tied under the chin, serves as a veil for their shoulders ; the rest of the body remains absolutely naked, except the head, which is sometimes ornamented with hats of straw, curiously matted or plaited. The women have cloaks of deer-skin, tanned ; those of the missions nrake a small bodice, with sleeves of the same material. This, with a small apron of rushes, and a petticoat of stag-skin, which descends to the middle of the leg, is the whole of their apparel. Girls under the age of nine years have only a simple girdle, and boys are com- pletely naked. The Indians of the rancherics, or independent villages, are accustomed to paint their bodies red and black wh°n they are in mourning ; but the missionaries have prohibited the former, though they tolerate the latter, these people being singularly attached to their friends. The ties of family ere less regarded among them than those of friendship : the cluldren show is DE tA PEROTTSE. 303 no filial respect to the father, having been obliged to quit his cabin as soon as they were able to procure iheir own subsistence. A Spanish commissary at Monterey, named M. Vincent Vassatlrey Vefja, brouglit orders to the governor to collect all the otter-skins of his missions and presidencies, government having reserved to itself the exclusive com- merce of them ; and M. Fages assured La Perouse that he could annually furnish twenty thousand of them. The Spaniards were ignorant of the importance of this valuable peliry till the publication of the voyages of Captain Cook : that excellent man has navigated for the general benefit of every nation ; his own enjoys only the glory of the enterprise, andtliat of liaving given him birth. New Cahfornia, though extremely fertile, cannot boast of having a single settler ; a few soldiers, married to Indian women, who dwell in the forts, or who are dispersed among the different missions, constituting the whole Spanish nation in thisd^lrict of America. The Franciscan missionaries are principally Europeans; they iiave a convent in Mexico. The viceroy IS now the sole judge of all controversies in the different missions. Don Bernardo Galves having united all the powers, Spain allows four hundred piasters to each missionary, two of which are appropriated to a parisli : supernumeraries receive no salary. On the evening of the 22d everything was on board, and leave had been taken of the governor and missionaries. On the morning of the 24th they sailed. On the 3d of November the frigates were surrounded with nod- dies, terns, and man-of-war birds ; and on the 4th they made an island which bore west. This small island is little more than a rock of about 600 toises in length. Not a tree is to be seen on it, but a great deal of grass is visible on the top ; the rock is much disfigured by the excrement of various birds ; the e.-jtremities of it are perpendicular like a wall, and the sea broke around it with such violence as to render it impossible to land. La Perouse named it Isle Necker. About an hour past one in the morning La Perouse saw breakers at two cables' length ahead of the ship ; the sea being so smooth, the sound of them was hardly heard ; the Astrolabe perceived them at the same time, though at a greater dis- tance than the Boussole ; both frigates instantly hauled, with their heads to the south-east. La Perouse gave orders for sounding ; they had nine fathoms, roeky bottom : soon after ten and twelve fathoms, and in a quarter of an hour got no ground with sixty fathoms. They just escaped the most imminent danger to which navigators can be exposed. The Island of Assumption, to which the Jesuits have attributed six leagues of circumference, from the angles now taken, was reduced to half, and the highest point is about two hundred toises above the level^f the eea. A more horrid place cannot be conceived. It was a perfect cone, Bs black as a coal, and very mortifying to behold, after having enjoyed, in imagination, tlie cocoa nuts and turtles expected to be found in some one of the Marianne Islands. La Perouse did not mean to touch at the Bashees, having before been often visited, and having nothing particularly interesting. Having determined the position, he continued his course toward China ; and on the 1st of January, 1787, found bottom in sixty fathoms ; a number of fishing boats surrounded him the next day. On .he 2d of January our navigators made the White Rock. In the evening ihey anchored to the northward of Ling-ting Island, and the following lay in Macao Road. Macao, situate at the mouth of the Tigris, is capable jf receiving a sixty-four gun ship into its road, at the entrance of the fypa ; and in its port, below the city, ships of 700 tons half laden. Tha 304 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLO. entrance of this port is defended by a fortress consisting two batteries and three small forts. The Portuguese limits extend no farther than about a leatTue from the city ; they are bounded by a wall, and guarded by a few soldiers under a mandarin. This mandarin is, indeed, the real governor of Macao, and the person to whom the Chinese owe obedience. He has not the privilpge of sleeping within the enclosure of the limits, yet he may visit the plnce, inspect the custom-houses, &c. And on these occasions the Portuguese must salute him with five guns. But no European is permitted "to set a foot on the Chinese country beyond the wall ; an at- tempt of that kind would subject any person to the mercy of the Chinese ; for such an indiscretion large sums might be demanded of him, or he might suffer detention as a prisoner. Some of the officers of the frigates wan- tonly exposed themselves to this risk ; but it fortunately happened that no serious consequences arose from their levity. The Viceroy of Goa appoints all the military and civil officers at Macao. The governor and the senators are nominated by him. He has lately appointed the garrison to consist of 180 Indian seapoys and 120 militia ; the soldiers are armed with staves, the officer only being permitted to wear a sword ; but on no occasion to use it against a Chinese. If a robber of that nation is detected in breaking open a door, or purloining any effects, he must not be arrested without the greatest precaution ; if a soldier, in his own defence, should unfortunately kill him, he is delivered over to the governor, and hanged in the market-place. But if a Chinese kill a Portuguese, he is examined by the judges of his own nation, who make a pompous parade of fulfilling all the formalities of justice, but always connive at the evasion of it. The Portuguese, however, have lately made a spirited eifort, which reflects honour on them. A seapoy having killed a Chinese, they shot him them- selves in the presence of the mandarin, and would not submit the decision of the affair to those of his own country. The climate of the road of Typa is, at this season of the year, precari- ous ; most of the crews were afllicted with colds, accompanied with a fever ; which yielded to the salutary temperature of the Island of Luconia, when they approached it on the !.5lh of February. Wanting wood, which he knew was dear at Manillia, La Perouse came to a resolution of re- maining twenty-four hours at Marivella to procure some, and early the next morning all the carpenters of the two frigates were sent on shore with the long-boats ; the rest of the ships' companies, with the yawl, were reserved for a fishing party ; but they were unsuccessful, as they found nothing but rocks and very shallow water. On the 28th the navigators came to an anchor in the Port of Cavete, in three fathoms, at two cables' length from the town. Cavete, situate three leagues to the south-west of Manilla, was formerly a place of impor- tance. It has now the commandant of the arsenal, a confiator, a few other officers, and 150 men in garrison. The other inhabitants consist of Mulattoes or Indians employed at the arsenal, and, with their numerous families, form a population of about 4000, including the city and suburb of Saint Roch. There are two parishes, and three convents of men. The Jesuits had a handsome house here, which is now in the hands of govern- ment. The whole place is now almost a heap of ruins. Manilla is erected on the bay which also bears its name, and lies at the mouth of a river, being one of the finest situations in the world ; all the necessaries of life may be procured ther') in abundance, and on reasonable terms ; but the cloths and other manufactures of Europe are extrava- gantly dear. The great possessions of the Spaniards in America have not M. DE LA PEROirSE. 305 permitted the government to attend minutely to the Philippines. La Perouse confidently asserts, that a great nation, without any other colony than the Piiilippines, which would establish a proper government there, might view all the European settlements in Africa and America without envy or regret. These islands contain about 3,000,000 of inhabitants, and that of Luconia consists of about a third of them. These people seem not inferior to Europeans ; they cultivate the land with skill, and among them have ingenious goldsmiths, carpenters, joiners, masons, black- smiths, &c. La Perouse says he has visited them at their villages, and found them affable, hospitable, and honest. The Spaniards indeed speak contemptuously of them ; but the vices they attribute to the Indians may with more propriety be placed to the government established among them. Coffee, sugar-canes, cotton, and indigo, grow there without cultivation, and it is generally believed that their spices would not be inferior to those of the Moluccas ; a general liberty of commerce for all nations would command a sale which would encourage the cultivation of them all ; and a moderate duty on all articles exported would soon defray the expenses that government might sustain. On the 9th of April, according to the French reckoning, and the 10th as the Manillese reckon, our navigators sailed and got to the northward of the Island of Luconia. On the 21st they made the Island of Formosa, and experienced, in the channel which divides it from that of Luconia, some very violent currents. On the 22d they set Lamy Island, at the south-west point of Formosa, about three leagues distance. The tack they then stood on conveyed them upon the coast of Formosa, near the entrance of the bay of Old Fort, Zealand, where the city of Taywan, the capital of that island, is seated. Having been informed of the revolt of that Chinese colony, and that an army of 20,000 men, under the santog of Canton, had been despatched against it. La Perouse resolved to sacri- fice a few days to learn the particulars of this event. Only one man could be prevailed on to come on board ; whose fish were instantly purchased at his own price, to induce him to give a favourable account of our navi- gators, should he venture to acknowledge that he had communicated with them. No person could guess at the meaning of any of the answers given by the fisherman to the questions which had been proposed to them. The whole of the next day a dead calm occurred, in mid-channel, be- tween the Bashee Islands and those of Botol Tabacoxima. It; is probable that vessels might provide themselves in this island with provision, wood, and water. La Perouse preserved the name of Kumi Island, which Father Gambil gives it in his chart. In the night of the 25th our navigators passed the strait of Corea, sounding very frequently ; and as this coast appeared more eligible to follow than that of Japan, they approached within two leagues of it, and shaped a course parallel to its direction. On the 27th they made the signal to bear up and steer east, and soon perceived, in the north-north-east, an island not laid down upon any chart, at the distance of about twenty leagues from the coast of Corea. He named it Isle Dagelet, from the name of the astronomer, who first dis- covered it. The circumference is about three leagues. On the 30th of May La Perouse shaped his course east toward Japan, and on the 2d of June saw two Japanese vessels, one of which passed within hail of him. It had a crew of twenty men, all habited in blue cas- socks resembling those worn by French priests. This vessel was about 100 tons burthen, and had a single high mast stepped in the middle. Tii8 Asti^olahe hailed her as she passed, but neither the question nor the answer «36« 306 Voyages round the woRi^tj. was comprehended. She continued her course to the southward, to give the earhest intelligence of two foreign vessels having appeared in seas where no Eiiropea°i navigator had ever ventured. At different times of the day seven Chinese vessels, of smaller construction, were seen, which were better calculated to encounter bad weather. During the seventy-five days, since our navigators sailed from Manilla, they had run along the coasts of Quelpert Island, Corea, and Japan ; but as these countries were inhabited by people mhospitable to strangers, they did not attempt to visit them. They were e.xtremely impatient to recoa noitre this land, and it was the only part of the globe which had escaped the activity of Captain Cook. The geographers who had drawn the strait of Tessoy, erroneously determined the lunits of Jesso, of the Company's Land, and of Slaten Island ; it therefore became necessary to terminate the ancient discussions by indisputable facts. The latitude of Bale de Ternai was the same as that of Port Acqueis, though the description of it is very diHerent. The plants which France produces carpeted the whole of this soil. Roses, lilies, and all European meadow-flowers were beheld at every step. Pine trees embellished the tops of the mountains ; and oaks, gradually diminishing in strength and size toward the sea, adorn- ed the less elevated parts. Traces of men mere frequently perceived by the havoc they had made. By these, and many other corroborating circumstances, the navigators were clearly of opinion, that the Tartars approach the borders of the sea, when invited thither by the season for fishing and hunting ;. that they assemble for those purposes along the rivers, and that the mass of people reside in the interior of the country, to attend to the multiplication of their flocks and herds. M. de Langle, with several other officers who had a passion for hunting, endeavoured to pur- sue their sport, but without success ; yet they imagined that, by silence, perseverance, and posting themselves in ambush in the passes of the stags and bears, they might be able to procure some of them. This plan was determined on for the next day, but, with all their address and manage- ment, it proved abortive. It was therefore generally acknowledged that fishing presented the greatest prospect of success. Each of the five creeks in the Bale de Ternai afforded a proper place for hauling the seine, and was rendered more convenient by a rivulet, near which they established their kitchen. They caught plenty of trx)ut, salmon, cod-fish, harp-fish, plaice, and herrings. On the 4th, at three in the morning, there was a fine clear sky, ar,d the navigators saw. upon their right beam, at the distance of two miles, in the west-north-west, a great island into which a river discharged itself. The country resembled that at Bale de Ternai, and, though three degrees more to the northward, the productions of the earth differed very little from it. M. de A''aujuas, who had been despatched in one of the boats, took away one of the elk-skins, but not without leaving in exchange for it some hatchets and other iron instruments of infinitely more value. That officer's representation, nor that of the naturalists, did not encourage La Pcrouse to continue any longer in this bay, on which he thought proper to bestow the name of Bale de Suff"ren. At eight in the morning of the 7th, he made an island which seemed of great extent ; he supposed, at first, that this was Segalien Island, the south part of which some geographers had placed two degrees too far to the northward. The aspect of this land was extremely diH"erent from that of Tartary : nothing was to be seen but barren rocks, the cavities of which elainod the snow. To the highest of the mountains La Perou?e gav« M. DE LA PEROUSE. 307 the appellaiion of Peak Lamanon. M. de Langle, who had come to anchor. came instantly on board his ship, havina already hoisted out his long-boat and small boats. He submitted to La Perouse whether it would not be proper to land before night, in order to reconnoitre the country, and gather some necessary informaiion from the inhabitants. By the assistance of their glasses, they perceived some cabins, and two of the islanders hasten- ing toward the woods. Our navigators were successful in making the natives comprehend that they requested a description of their country, and that of the Mantchous ; one of the old sages rose up, and, with great perspicuity, pointed out the most essential and interesting particulars with the end of his staff His sagacity in guessing the meaning of the questions proposed to him was astonishing, though, in this particular, he was surpassed by another islan- der of about thirty years of age. The last-mentioned native informed our navigators that th'^y had a commercial intercourse with the people who in- habited the banks of Segalien River, and he distinctly marked, by strokes of a pencil, the number of days it required for a canoe to sail up the river to the respective places of their general tratKc. The bay in which they lay at anchor was named Bale de Langle, as Captain de Langle was the fjrst who discovered it, and first landed on ils shore. They spent the re- mainder of the day in visiting the country and its inhabitants. They were surprised to find among a people composed of hunters and fishermen, who were strangers to the cultivation of the earth, and without flocks or herds, such gentle manners and such a superiority of intellect. The attention of the inhabitants of the Baie de Langle was attracted by the arts and manufactures of the French : they judiciously examined them, and de- bated among themselves the manner of fabricating the several articles. They were not unacquainted with the weaver's shuttle ; a loom of their construction was brought to France, whence it appeared that their methods of making linens were similar to those of the Europeans; but the thread of it is formed of the bark of the willow-tree. Though they do not cul- tivate the soil, they convert the spontaneous produce of it to the most useful and necessary purposes. At daybreak, on the 4th of July, La Perouse made the signal forgetting under way ; early on the 19th he saw the land of an island from north- east by north, as far as east-south-east, but so thick a fog prevailed that none of the points could be particularly discovered. At four the fog, ia a great degree, dispersed, and the navigators took bearings of the lands astern, to them to the north by east. The bay, which is the best in which he had anchored since his departure from Mandla, he named Baie d'Estaing. M. de Langle, who first landed on the island, found the islan- ders assembled round three or four canoes, laden with smoked fish : he was there informed that the men who composed ttie crews of the canoes were Mantchous, and had quitted the banks of the Segalien River to be- come purchasers of these fish. In the corner of the island, within a kind of circus planted with stakes, each surmounted with the head of a bear, the bones of animals lay scattered. As these people use no fire-arms, but engage the bears in close combat, their arrows being only capable of wounding them, this circus might probably be intended to perpetuate the memory of certain great exploits. Having entertained conjectures relative to the proximity of the coast of Tartary, La Perouse at length discovered thai his conjectures were well-founded ; for when the horizon became a little more extensive, he saw it perfectly. In the evening of the 22d he ome 10 an anchor in thirty-seven fathoms, about a league from the land. 308 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. He was then abreast of a small river, to the northward of which he saw a remarkable peak ; its base is on the shore, and its summit on all sides preserves a regular form. La Perouse bestowed on it the title of Peak la Martiniere. . On the SSth, in the evening, our navigators were at the opening ol a bay which presented a safe and convenient anchorage. M. de Langle reported to La Perouse that there was excellent shelter behind four islands ; he had landed at a village of Tartars, where he was kindly re- ceived, 'and where he discovered a watering place abounding with the most limpid element. From M. de Langle's report. La Perouse gave orders to prepare for anchoring at the bottom of the bay, which was named Bale de Castris. In this bay the French navigators first discovered the use of the circle of lead or bone, which these people and the inhabitants of Segalien Island wear on the thumb like a ring ; it greatly assists them in cutting and stripping the salmon with a knife, which is always hanging to their girdle. Their village was built npon low marshy land, which must doubt- less be uninhabited during the winter ; but on the opposite side of the gulf another village appeared on a more elevated situation. It was seated at the entrance of a wood, and contained eight cabins, larger and better constructed than the first. Not far from these cabins, they visited three yourts, or subterranean houses. They were sufficiently capacious to accommodate the inhabitants of the whole eight cabins during the severity of the inclement season. On the borders of this village several tombs pre- sented themselves, which were larger and more ingeniously fabricated than the houses ; each of them contained three, four, or five biers, decorated wiih Chinese stuffs, some pieces of which were brocade. Bows, arrows, and the other most esteemed articles of these people, were suspended in the interior of these monuments, the wooden door of which was closed by a bar, sup- ported at each end by a prop. The women are wrapped in a large robe of nankeen, or salmon-skins, curiously tanned, descending as low as the ancle-bone, sometimes embel- lished with a border of fringe manufactured of copper, and producing sounds like those of little bells. Tliose salmon which furnish a covering for the fair, weigh thirty or forty pounds, and are never caught in summer ; those which were taken by the French visiters did not exceed three or lour pounds in weight ; but that disadvantage was fully compensated by the extraordinary number and the extreme delicacy of their flavour. On the 2d of August La Perouse sailed with a light breeze. Segalieia Island terminating in a point, a distant horizon of mountains was no longer seen ; many circumstances announced that he was approaching its southern extremity, and that the peak was upon another island. On this supposi- tion, which was realized the next day, the anchor was let go in the evening, as the calm rendered it necessary to anchor at the south point of Segalien Island. This point, which was named Cape Chillon, is situated in 45 degrees 57 minutes north latitude, and 140 degrees 34 minutes east longitude : it terminates this island, which from north to south is of immense extent, separated from Tartary by a channel termi- nated by sand-banks to the northward, between which no passage for ships is to be found. This island is Oku-Jesso. Chica Island, abreast of our navigators, divided by a channel from that of Segalien, and from Japan to the Strait of Sangaar, is the Jesso of the Japanese, extending to the south as far as the Strait of Sangaar. The chain of the Kurile mountains is more to the eastward, and, with Jesso and Oku-Jesso, formi M. DE LA PEROTJSE, 309 a sea which communicates with that of Ochotsk. The persons of the islanders, which were seen m Crillon Bay, were well-sized, strong, and vigorous : their features were expressive, and their beards descended to their breast ; their arms, necks, and backs, were also covered with a pro- fusion of hair. Their middle stature is supposed to be about an inch lower than that of the French. Their skin is tawny, like that of the Algerenes and other nations on the coast of Barbary. On the 17th they approached Staten Island, of which they had a per- fect view. On the 19th Cape Troun was perceived to the southward, and Cape Uries to the south-east by east, its proper direction, according to the Dutch chart : their situations could not possibly have been deter- mined with more precision by modern navigators. On the 20th saw the Company's Island, and reconnoitred the Strait of Uries, though it was very foggy, and ran along the south coast of the Company's Island, at the distance ot three or four leagues : it appeared to be barren, without trees or verdure, and even without inhabitants. On the 29th, after a series of foggy weather, our navigators reconnoitred Mareckan Island, considered by some as the nrst of the southern Kuriles ; its extent is about ten leagues from north-east to south-west, and each extremity is terminated by an eminence, a peak or volcano rising in the middle. On the 5th of September, though the fog continued obstinate, the navigators crowded sail in the midst of darkness, and at six in the evening of the same day it cleared up, and enabled them to see the coast of Kamtschatka, the whole of which appeared hideous ; the eye surveyed with terror enormous masses of rocks, which, in the beginning of vSepternber, were enveloped in snow. The next day they approached the land, and found it agreeable to behold when near ; and the base of these enormous summits, crowned with eternal ice, was carpeted with the most beautiful verdure, finely diversified with trees. In the evening of the 6th they made the entrance of Awatsha Bay, or St. Peter and St. Paul. The hght-house, erected by the Russians on the east point of the entrance, was not kindled du- ring the night ; as an excuse for which, the governor declared, the next day, that all their efforts to keep it burning had been ineffectual ; the wind had constantly extinguished the flames, which was only sheltered by four planks of wood, very indifferently cemented. The government of Kamtschatka had been materially changed since the departure of the English, and was now only a dependency of that of Ochotsk. These particulars were communicated to our navigators by Lieutenant Kaborof, governor of the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, having a sergeant and forty soldiers under his command. M. de Lessops, who acted as interpreter, and who perfectly understood the Russian lan- guage, wrote a letter, in La Perouse's name, to the governor of Ochotsk, to whom La Perouse also wrote in French himself. He told him that the narrative of Cook's last voyage had spread abroad the fame of the hospitality of the Kamtschadale government ; and he flattered himself that he should be as favourably received as the Enghsh navigators, as his voyage, like theirs, was intended for the general benefit of ail maritime nations. In the midst of their labours our navigators devoted intervals to plea- sure, and engaged in several huntmg parties on the rivers Awaisha and Paratounka, expecting to be able to shoot a few rein-deer, bears, or other quadrupeds, inhabitants of that climate. They were obliged, how- ever, to content themselves with a few ducks or teal, an inferior sort of game, which were considered as a poor compensation for their laborious •xcursions. But if their own endeavours were not so successful as their 310 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. sanguine expectations had predicted, their friends among the Kamtscha- dales made ample amends for the disappomtment. During their stay they had received from the inhabitants of the village an elk, four bears, and a rein-deer, with such a quantity of divers wild fowl, that they found it necessary to distribute a considerable part of them among their crews. This was rendered the more necessary, as they had been cloyed by a superabundance of fish ; a single cast of the net alongside of the frigates would have produced sufficient sustenance for half a dozen ships ; but there was little variety of species ; cod, salmon, herrings, and plaice, were almost the only produce of the net. The Kamtschadales are of an imitative genius, and fond of adopting the customs of their conquerors. They have already abandoned the yourts, in which they were fori.-erly accustomed to burrow like badgers, breathing foul air during the whole of the winter. The most opulent am.ono- them now build isbas, or wooden houses, like those of the Rus- sians : they are divided into three small rooms, and are conveniently warmed by a brick stove. The inferior people pass their winters and summers in balagans, resembling wooden pigeon-houses, covered with thatch, and placed upon the tops of posts twelve or thirteen feet high, to which the women, as well as men, find a ladder necessary for their ascension. But these latter buildings will probably soon disappear : for the Kamtschadales imitate the manners and dresses of the Russians. It is curious to see in their little cottages a quantity of cash in circulation ; and it may be considered as a still greater curiosity, because the practice exists among so small a number of inhabitants. Their consumption of the coinmodnies of Russia and China are so few, that the balance of trade is entirely in their favour, in consequence of which it is necessary to pay them the difference in rubles. The Kamtschadales, says La Perouse, appeared to me to be the same people as those of the Bay of Castries, on the coast of Tartary ; they are equally remarkable for their mildness and their probity, and their persons are not very dissimilar. The approach of winter now warned our navigators to depart ; the ground, which, on their arrival on the 7th of September, was adorned with the most beautiful verdure, was as yellow and parched up on the 25th of the same month as in the environs of Paris at the conclusion of December. La Perouse therefore gave preparatory orders for their departure, and on the 29th got under way. M. Kasloff came to take a fintil leave of him, and dined on board. He accompanied him on shore, with M. de Langle and several officers, and was liberally entertained with a good supper and a ball. Signs of land were seen on the 18th and 19th of October; flights of ducks, and other birds that frequent the shore, were observed. On the 1st of November, after experiencing several vicissitudes of weather, a great number of birds were seen ; and, among others, curlews and plovers, two species which are never observed at any considerable distance from land. On the 5th they crossed their own track from Monterey to Macao ; and on the 6th that of Captain Clerke from the Sandwich Islands to Kam- tschatka, when the birds had entirely disappeared. A heavy swell from the east, like that from the west in the Atlantic Ocean, constantly prevails in this vast sea ; they saw neither bonetas nor doradoes, nor anything but « few flying-fish ; a distressing circumstance, as their fresh provision waa entirely consumed. Induced by a western gale, La Perouse attempted to reach the parallel ef Bougainville's Navigator's Island9, a discovery due to the Frenclii M. DE LA PEROUSE. 311 where fresh provisions might probably be procured. On the 6th of December, at three in the afternoon, he saw the most easterly island of hat archipelago, and stood on and off during the rest of the eveninc and night. Meaning to anchor if he met with a proper place, La Perouse passed through the channel between the great and the little islands that Bougainville left to the south ; though hardly a league wide, it appeared perfectly free from danger. He saw no canoes till he was in the channel, yet he beheld several habitations on the windward side of the island, and a group of Indians sitting under the shade of cocoa nut trees, who seemed delighted with the prospect afforded by the frigates. Expecting to meet with a more considerable island farther west, tha navigators flattered themselves they should find a shelter, if not a port, and therefore deferred making more extensive observations till they arrived at that island, which, accorduig to M. de Bougaiaville's plan, tlicy now ap. proached. At break of day they were surprised not to see land to leeward ; nor was it to be discovered till six o'clock in the morning, the channel being infinitely wider than was represented on the chart which was delivered to La Perouse as a guide. They found themselves opposite the north-east point of the Island of Maouna at five in the evening. Being visited by two or three canoes, which came alongside to exchange hogs and fruit for beads, they conceived an exalted opinioti of the riches of the island. Charmed with the i)eautiful dawn of the following morning, La Perouse resolved to reconnoitre the country, take a view of the inhabitants at their own homes, fill water, and immediately get under way — prudence warning him against passing a second night at that anchorage, which M. de Langle also thought too dangerous for a longer stay. It was therefore agreed on to sail in the afternoon, after appropriating the morning in exchanging baubles for hogs and fruit. At the dawn of day the islanders had sur- rounded the two frigates, with 200 different canoes laden with provisions, which they would only exchange for beads ; axes, cloth, and other articles of traffic were treated by them with contempt. While a part of the crew was occupied in keeping them in order and dealing, the rest were despatching empty casks on shore to be replenished with water. Two boats of the Boussole, armed and commanded by Messrs. de Clonard and Colinet, and those of the Astrolabe, commanded by Messrs. de Monti and Bellegarde, set off with that view at five in the morning, for a bay at the distance of about a league. La Perouse followed close after Messrs. de Cionard and de Monti, in his pinnace, and landed when tiiey did. It unfortunately happened that M. de Langle had formed a resolution to make an excursion in his jolly-boat to another creek, at the distance of about a league from their watering place ; from this excursion a dire mis- fortune ensued. The creek toward which the long-boats steered was large and commodious ; these, as also the other boats, remained afloat at low water, within half a pistol-shot of the beach, and excellent water was easily procured. Great order was observed by Messrs. de Clonard and de Monti. A line of soldiers was posted betvveen the beach and the natives, who amount to about 200, including many women and children. They were prevailed on to sit down under cocoa trees, at a little distance from the boats ; each of them had fowls, hogs, pigeons, or fruit, and all of them were anxious to disposed of their articles without delay, which created some confusion. While matters were thus passing with perfect tranquillity, and the casks expeditiously filling with water, La Perouse ventured to visit a charming Tillage, situated in the midst of a neighbouring wood, the treea of which 313 VOTAOBS ROUND THE WORLD. were loaded with delicious fruit. The houses formed a circle of about 150 toises in diameter, leaving aninterior open space, beautifully verdant, and shaded with trees, which rendered the air delightfully cool and re- freshing. Women, children, and aged men attended him, and earnestly importuned him to enter their houses ; they even spread their finest mats upon the floor, decorated with chosen pebbles, and raised a convenient distance from the ground, to prevent offensive humidity. La Perouse condescended to enter one of the handsomest of these huts, which was probably inhabited by a chief, and was astonished to behold a large cabi- net of lattice-worlt, in which as much taste and elegance were displayed as if it had been produced in the environs of Paris. This enchanting country, blessed with a fruitful soil without culture, and enjoying a cli- mate which renders clothing unnecessary, holds out to these fortunate people an abundance of the mcst estimable food. The trees invite the natives to partake of the bread fruit, the banana, the cocoa nut, and the orange ; while the swine, fowls, and dogs, which partake of the surplus of these fruits, afford them a rich variety of viands. The inhabitants of this enviable spot were so rich, and entirely free from wants, that they looked with disdain on the cloth and iron tendered by the French visiters, and only deigned to become customers for beads. Abounding in real blessings, they languished only for superfluities. The boats of the Boussole now arrived loaded with water, and La Perouse made every preparation to get under way. M. de Langle at the same instant returned from his excursion, and mentioned his having landed in a noble harbour for boats, at the foot of a delightful village, and near a cascade of transparent water. He spoke of this watering place as infinitely more commodious than any other, and begged La Perouse to permit him to take the lead of the first parly, assuring him that in three hours he would return on board with all the boats full of water. Though La Perouse, from the appearance of things at this time, had no great apprehensions of danger, he was averse to sending boats on shore with- out the greatest necessity, especially among an immense number of peo- ple, unsupported and unperceived by the ships. The boats put off frca the Astrolabe at half-past twelve, and arrived at the watering place soon after one ; when, to their great astonishment, M. de Langle and his officers, instead of findmg a large commodious bay, saw only a creek full of coral, through which there was no other passage than a winding channel of about twenty-five feet wide. When within, they had no more than five feet water ; the long-boats grounded, and the barges must have been m the same situation had they not been haiiled to the entrance of the channel at a great distance from the beach. M. de Langle was now convmced that he had examined the bay at high water only, not supposing that the tide at those islands rose five or six feet. Struck with amaze" ment, he instantly resolved to quit the creek, and repair to that where they had before filled water • but the air of tranquillity and apparent good humour of the crowd of Indians, bringing with them an immense quantity of fruit and hogs, chased his first prudent idea from his recollection. He landed the casks on shore from the four boats without interruption, while his soldiers preserved excellent order on the beach, forming them- selves m two lines, the more effectually to answer their purpose. Instead of about 200 natives, including women and children, which M. de Lanirla found there at about half-past one, they were, at three o'clock, increas'ed to the alarming number of 1200. M. de Langle's situation became every Witant more embarrassing ; he found means, however, to ship his wat«r, M. DE LA PER0U8E. 313 but the bay was almost dry, and he had not any hopes of getting off ins long-boats till four in the afternoon. He and his detachment, however, stepped into them, and took post in the bows with his musket and mG.^- keteers, forbidding any one to fire without his command ; which he knew would speedily be found necessary. Stones v.ere now violently thrown by the Indians, who were up to their knees in water, and surrounded the long-boats, at the distance of about six feet — the soldiers, who were embarked, making feeble efforts to keep them otf. M. de Langle, still hoping to check hostilities without efl'usion of blood, gave no orders all this time for firing a volley of musketry and swivels ; but shortly after a shower of stones, thrown with incredible force, struck almost every one in the long-boat. M. de Langle had only (ired two shots, when he was knocked overboard, and massacred with clubs and stones by about 200 Indians. The long-boat of the Boussole, commanded by M. de Boutin, was aground near the Astrolabe, leaving between them a channel unoccupied by the Indians. Many saved themselves by swim- ming, who fortunately got on board the barges, which keepino- afloat, forty-nine persons were saved out of the sixty-one, of which the party consisted. M. Boutin was knocked down by a stone, but fortunately fell between the two long-boats, on board of which not a man remained in the space of about five minutes. Those who preserved their lives by swim- ming to the two barges, received several wounds ; but those who unhap- pily fell on the other side were instantly despatched by the clubs of the remorseless Indians. The crews of the barges, who had killed many of the islanders with their muskets, now began to make more room by throwing their water- casks overboard. They had also nearly exhausted their ammunition, and their retreat was rendered difficult, a number of wounded persons lying stretched out upon the thwarts, and impeding the working of the oars. To the prudence of M. Vaujaus, and the discipline kept up by M. Mou- ton, who commanded the Boussole's barge, the public are indebted for the preservation of the forty-nine persons of both crews, who escaped. M. Boutin had received five wounds in the head and one in the breast, and was kept above water by the cockswain of the long-boat, who had himself received a severe wound. M. Colinet was discovered in a state of insensi- bility upon the grapnel-rope of the barge, with two wounds on the Lead, an arm fractured, and a finger broken. M. Lavaux, surgeon of the Astro- labe, was obliged to suS'er the operation of the trepan. M. de Lamanon and M. de Langle were cruelly massacred, with Talio, master-at-arms of the Boussole, and nine other persons belonging to the two crews. M. le Gobien, who commanded the Astrolabe's long-boat, did not desert his post till he was left alone ; when, having exhausted his ammunition, he leaped into the channel, and, notwithstanding his wounds, preserved him- self on board one of the barges. A little ammunition was afterward found, and completely exhausted on the infuriated crowd ; and the boats at length extricated themselves from their lamentable situation. At five o'clock the officers and crew of the Boussole were informed of this disastrous event ; they were at that moment surrounded with about 100 canoes, in which the natives were disposing of their provisions with security, and perfectly innocent of the catastrophe which had hap- pened. But they were the countrymen, the brothers, the children of the infernal assassins, the thoughts of which so transported La PerouM with rage, that he could with difficulty confine himself to the limits Of moderation, or hinder the crew from punishing them with death. a? 314 VOYAGES R<^UND THE WORLD. On the 14th of December La Peroase stood for the Island of Oyolava which had been observed before they had arrived at the anchorage which proved so fatal. This island is separated from that of Maoana or of the Massacre, by a wide channel, and vies with Otaheite in beauty, extent, fertility, and population. At the distance of about three leagues from the north-east point, he was surrounded by canoes, aden v^-nh bread fruit, bananas, cocoa nuts, sugar-canes, pigeons, and a few hogs The inhabitants of this island resemble those of the Island of Maouna, whose treachery had been so fatally experienced. Some exchanges were conducted with these islanders with more tranquillity and honesty than at the Island of Maouna, as the smallest acts of injustice received immediate chastisement. On the 17th they approaclied the Island of Poln, but not a single canoe came off; perhaps the natives had been intimidated by hearing of the event which had taken place at Maouna. Pola is a smaller island than that of Oyolava, but equally beautiful, and is only separated from it by a channel four leagues across. The natives of Maouna informed our visiters that the Navigator's Islands are ten in number, viz., Opoun, the most easterly, Leone, Fanfoue, Maouna, Oyolava, Calinasse, Pola, Skika, Ossamo, and Ouera. These islands form one of the finest archipelagoes of the South Sea, and are as interesting with respect to arts, productions, and population, as the Society and Friendly Islands, which the English navigators have so satisfactorily described. In favour of their moral characters, little remains to be noticed : gratitude cannot find a residence in their ferocious minds ; nothing but fear can restrain them from out- rageous and inhuman actions. The huts of these islanders are elegantly formed : though they disdain the fabrications of iron, they finish their work with wonderful neatness, with tools formed of a species of basalies in the form of an adze. For a few glass-beads they bartered large three- legged dishes of wood, so well polished as to have the appearance of being highly varnished. They keep up a wretched kind of police ; a few, who had the appearance of chiefs, chastised the refractory with their sticks, but their assumed power seemed generally disregarded ; any regu- lations which they attempted to enforce and to establish were trans- gressed almost as soon as they were promulgated. Never were sovereigns so negligently obeyed, never were orders enforced with such feeble shadows of authority. Imagination cannot figure to itself more agreeable situations than those of their villages. All the houses are built under fruit trees, which render them delightfully cool ; they are seated on the borders of streams lead- ing ilown from the mountains. Though the principal object in their architecture is to protect them from offensive heat, the islanders never abandon the idea of elegance. I'heir houses are sufficiently spacious to accommodate several families ; and they are furnished with blinds, which are drawn up to the windward to prevent the intrusion of the potent rays of the sun. The natives repose upon fine comfortable mats, which are cautiously preserved from all humidity. Nothing can be said, by our travellers, of the religious rites of these natives, as no moral was perceived belonging to them. The islands are fertile, and their population is sup- posed to be considerable. Opoun, Leone, and Fanfoue, are small ; but Maouna, Oyolava, and Pola, may be classed among the largest and most beautiful in the South Sea. Cocoa Island is lofty, and formed like a sugar-loaf; it is nearly a mile in diameter, covered with trees, and it separated from Traitor's Island by a channel about a league wide. Al eight in the morning La Perouse brought-to to the west-south-west, a» M. DE LA PEROUSE. 315 two miles from a sandy bay in the western part of the Great Island of Traitors, where he expected to find an anchorage sheltered from easterly winds. About twenty canoes inst,in(ly quitted the shore and approached the frigates, in order to make exchanges : several of them were loaded with excellent cocoa nuts, and a few yams and bananas ; one of then: brought a hog and three or four fowls. It evidently appeared that these Indians had before some knowledge of Europeans, as they came near with- out fear, traded with honesty, and never refused to part with then- fruit before they were paid for it. They spoke, however, the same language, and the same ferocity appeared in their countenances ; their manner of tattooing and the form of their canoes were the same, but they had not, like them, two joints cut off from the little finger of the left hand ; two individuals had, however, suffered that operation. On the 27th of December Vavao was perceived, an island which Cap- tain Cook had never visited, but was no stranger to its existence as one of the archipelago of the Friendly Islands ; it is nearly equal in extent to that of Toiigataboo, and is particularly fortunate in having no deficiency of fresh water The two small islands of Irloongatonga are no more than two large uninhabited rocks, which are high enough to be seen at the distance of fifteen leagues. Their position is ten leagues north of Ton- gataboo ; but that island being low, it can hardly be seen at half that dis- tance. On the 31st of December, at six in the morning, an appearance like the tops of trees, which seemed to grow in the water, proved the harbinger of Van Diemen's point. The wind being northerly. La Perouse steered for the south coast of the island, which may, without danger, be approached within three musket-shots. Not the seiublance of a hill is to be seen ; a calm sea cannot present a more level surface to the eye. The huts of the natives were scattered irregularly over the fields, and not socially collected into a conversable neighbourhood. Seven or eight canoes were launched from these habitations, and directed their course toward the vessels ; but these islanders were awkward seamen, and did not venture to come near, though the water was smooth, and no obstacle impeded their passage. At the distance of about eight or ten feet, they leaped overboard and swam liear the frigates, holding in each hand a quantity of cocoa nuts, which they were glad to exchange for pieces of iron, nails, and hatchets ; from the honesty of their dealings a friendly intercourse ensued between the islanders and the navigators, and they ventured to couie on board. Norfolk Island, off the coast of New South Wales, which they saw on the 13tb of January, is very steep, but does not exceed eighty toises above the level of the sea. It is covered with pines, which appear to be of the same species as those of New Caledonia or New Zealand. Cap- tain Cook having declared that he saw many cabbage trees in this island, heightened the desire of the navigators to land on it. Perhaps the palm which produces these cabbages is very small, for not a single tree of that species could be discovered. On the 26lh, at nine in the morning, La Perouse let go the anchor at a mile from the north coast of Botany Bay, in seven fathoms water. An English lieutenant and a midshipman were sent on board his ship by Captain Hunter, commander of the Sirius. They offered him, in Captain Hunter's name, all the services in his power : but circumstances would noi; permit him to supply them with provision, ammunition, or sails. An officerwas despatched from the French to the English captain, returning thanks, and -adding, that his w-ants extended only to wood and water, of which he should find plenty in the bay. The 316 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. journal of La Perouse proceeds no farther. La Perouse, according to his last letters from Botany Bay, was to return to the Isle of France in 1788. For two years France in vain impatiently expected his return ; perhaps the apprehensions of his countrymen may have been more ago- nizing than his actual sufiering : perhaps he has been cast away upon one of the islands of the South Sea, whence he stretches out his arms toward his country for protection. We have not now even the consola- tion to doubt that he has experienced some dreadful calamity. CAPTAIN EDWARD EDWARDS.— 1790-92. On the 10th of August, : 790, Captain Edwards was commissioned to take the command of his majesty's ship Pandora, of twenty-four guns and 160 men, to proceed to the South Seas ; in the first instance, to call at Otaheite and seize the mutineers of the Bounty, who had audaciously rebelled against their commander, committed him wiih several others to an open boat in the midst of the Pacific Ocean, and then ran away with the ship to the above-mentioned island ; and, secondly, to survey Endea- vour Straits, in order that the passage to Port Jackson, New South Wales, from India might be expedited, by ascertaining its advantages and dangers. Lieutenant Bligh's voyage (commander of the Bounty) not being round the world, it is not given in this work ; but for the informa- tion of the reader, it may be proper to state, that it was undertaken in order to introduce that great vegetable necessary of the South Seas, the bread fruit, into the West India Islands, by as many plants of it as could be conveniently carried. Quitting England, they touched successively at Teneriffe and Rio Janeiro, without any occurrence of consequence but the illness of several of the crew ; who, however, recovered as they approached Cape Horn, where the weather was, as usual, cold and tempestuous. January the 3ist, saw Cape St. Juan, Staten, and New Year's Islands. March 4th, perceived Easter Island ; on the 16th discovered a lagoon island, about four miles in extent, which was called after Lord Ducie ; lagoon islands are those which are little belter than sand-banks, supposed to be raised by the little animals which form the coral rocks, with a lake, or lagoon, of sea water in the centre, and producing in general little or nothing for the support of human life ; hundreds of these are found in the South Seas, and, being a little elevated above the surface of the water, frequently prove dangerous to shipping, especially in the night. Next day (17th) saw another of these islands, which was named after Lord Hood, about six miles long, with several kinds of trees, but no ap- pearance of inhabitants. Two days afterward observed a third, which received the name of Carysfort Island, after his lordship ; on the 22d passed Matei, and next day anchored in Matavai Bay, Otaheite. Early in the morning a canoe with one man visited them, who expressed the greatest satisfaction, and was astonished to see Lieutenant Hayward, (one of the Bounty officers,) as, he said, the mutineers told them that Captain Bligh and the others had gone to Whyteetakee to settle along with Cap- tain Cook, who was still living there. Christian, however, chief of the mutineers, with nine companions more attached to him than the others, and several Olaheitean men and womeL, had slipped the Bounty's cable in the night, and, leaving the remaining part of the crew on shore, went off nobody knew whither. EDWARD EDWARDS, il7 Lieutenants Corner and Hay ward were despatched, with two boats and twenty-six men, to the north side of the island after the mutineers, four of whom in the meantime voluntarily surrendered themselves ; the boats returning, reported they had chased the remainder on shore and taken their boat, the men having proceeded to the heights ; immediately upon which the former officer was despatched against them by land with a party of men, by permission of Otoo, the king; while Lieutenant Hayward went for the same purj)0se by water, accompanied by several chiefs, par- ticularly Oedidee. An Englishman, named Brown, left here by an American vessel, also joined the parly, and proved of considerable service, having been twelve months on the island, and being sufFiciently acquainicd with the language and manners of the natives. Lieutenant Corner, landing at Point Venus, had several chiefs for tiis guides and the common people to carry his ammunition, having to cross a rapid river, running from the mountams, and forming a variety of curves and some cataracts in its course to the sea. This they forded sixteen times, the natives displaying on every occasion much more personal strength than the seamen; and occasionally ropes and tackles were neces- sary to ascend some of the heights. During a halt, the officer expressed a wish for something to eat, when one of the natives immediately ran to a temple, where meat had been regul.arly served to the deity of the place, and came back with a roasted pig, which had been offered to him that day. This remarkable instance of impiety surprised the lieutenant ; but he was assured by the offender, that the god had more than he could possibly eat ! Having arrived at the residence of a great chief, they were hospi- tably received ; and in honour of his father, then deceased, fired three volleys over the body, the paper of the cartridges of which unfortunately set fire to some of its coverings, which, in the estimation of these people, was almost a species of sacrilege. In the meantime Mr. Hayward had blocked up the fugitives by water, and, by the aid of Tamarrah, prince of the upper districts, had scarcely left them a chance of escape in any direction. Thus cut off from every hope of assistance, the natives harassing them behind, while Mr. Hayward advanced in front, they took shelter, under cover of the night, in a hut in the woods, where they were discovered by Brovi'n, who, creeping to the place when they were asleep, discovered them to be Europeans by the feel of their feet. Next day the lieutenant attacked them ; but, conscious that no resistance would he availing, they grounded their arms without opposition, and, under a strong guard, were marched to the boats with their arms tied behind their backs. A prison for their reception was built on the after-part of the quarter-deck, in order that no communication should take place between them and the ship's company. Several of the natives, it seems, were their friends ; some of the mutineers had married the daughters of neighbouring chiefs ; and at length a conspiracy was formed to cut the ship's cables and allow her to drift upon the rocks, when they would not only release their friends, but enjoy the plunder of the wreck. In this scheme neither the king nor any of his brothers or friends participated ; one of them, named Orapai, gave the first intimation of it, and they all behaved otherwise in the most friendly and obliging manner. The prisoners were daily visited by their wives and offsprings, who displayed surprising grief and attachment to their husbands, the scene of their meetings being truly melancholy and affecting. By these faithful partners they were likewise supplied, during their stay, with every delicacy of the country. On the 30th Captain Edwards received a visit from King Oloo and his 318 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. two queens, one of whom was a coarse woman, about thirty years of age , the other a delicate one, not more than sixteen ; they all slept together, and seemed to be on very friendly terms ; presents of hogs, bananas, and cocoa nuts, accompanied their majesties. Next day a grand heava, or play, was ordered, for the entertainment of the English officers at Point Venus ; a band of music attended from the beach to conduct thein to the spot where the king and his retinue were in waiting ; a ring was formed and the entertainment began, which consisted of singing, dancing, and posture-matung, very little of which could be rendered intelligible to their visiters. Being now ready for sea, the natives expressed the strong- est regret at their departure, cutting their heads and breasts with shells in token of grief. They had promised to take several to England ; but finding, on farther inquiry, that every man in England must labour hard for the bread he eats, the indolent Otaheiteans, too lazy for this, declined visitino' such a country. KingOtoo also, with his wives, wished to make the same excursion, but was persuaded from it by his brother, his services being wanted in the approaching war. He desired, however, as well as his chiefs, to be remembered, in an especial manner, to his good friend King George. May 8th, passed York Island, near to Otaheite, under the government of Matuara, brother and deputy of Otoo ; it is about twelve miles in circumference. On the three following days examined Huaheine, Ulietea, Otaha, and Bolabola, for the other body of mutineers, but in vain. At the latter they were visited by Tatahoo, the king ; the inhabitants are more warlike than any of their neighbours, who are much afraid of their prowess, so that the name of a Bolabola man is always a terror to the others. A tender, about the size of a Gravesend-boat, fitted up at Ota- heite, accompanied the Pandora, commanded by one of her masters' mates, with seven men. On the 19th made Whyteetakee, discovered by Captain Bligh ; one of the natives recollected Mr. Hayward in the Bounty : and a spear was purchased, of the most exquisite workmanship seen in any of the islands. The 22d, made Palmerston's Island, and, to their surprise, found a yard and some spars marked Bounty, but no other trace of the mutineers. Here the jolly-boat having left the ship, and the weather coming on thick immediately, she was never afterward seen nor heard of, with her crew, though several days were occupied in the search by the ship and other boats. June 6th, saw an island, which was called after the Duke of York ; and on the 12th another, named after the Duke of Clarence ; the former not inhabited, the latter pretty populous ; but no intercourse took place with the people. On the 18th discovered anolhcj- island, of greater extent than any yet seen in these seas, being twice the extent of Otaheite ; the natives warlike, but fair-dealing in their intercourse with their visiters. It was called Chatham's Island. The 21st, saw another, which the natives named Otutuelah, about forty miles long, with the people of which they traded for a very delicate species of eeed-cake, birds, fowls, fealhers, and other curiosities ; they were very timid in coming on board, and much astonished at everything they saw. In the evening separated from the tender, and cruised two days off the spot to rejoin her, but in vain ; proceeding eastward, they saw an island observed by Bougainville ; and on the 28th made the Hapaee Islands, discovered by Captain Cook. Next day they anchored in the road of Annamooka, one of the Friendly Islands. The inhabitants proved such determined thieves, that noboby durst walk by himself withom danger of having the clothes stripped frons off hi» EDWARD EDWARDS. 319 6ack. On the 30th, Tatafec, the king of the island, paid the Pandora a visit. The women here are more masculine than those of Otaheite, but have very amiable countenances, whicli render them sufficiently agreeable ; several handsome girls were brought for disposal by their mothers, the price being at tirst an axe, but diminishing to razors, scissors, and nails, A brisk trade was carried on for hogs, the pork being better than that of Otaheite. Several attempts were made to plunder the parties sent out to cut wood and grass, in one of which an attempt being made on the life of Lieutenant Corner, he shot the offender dead ; these attempts, how- ever, were not countenanced by the king or principal chiefs. His majesty, on the contrary, embarked for Tafoa in the Pandora, one of his tributary islands, the chiefs of which came off to do him homage, which he exem- plified by putting his foot on their heads in the act of obeisance. Con- tinuing the search for the mutineers, they saw on the 14th the Navigator's Isles of Bougainville, and perceived European clothes in the possession of the natives. The 18th, perceived a cluster of islands, which were called Howe's ; running down the north side they perceived a fine open sound, into which fell some rivers. The natives were civil, and seem- ingly much better disposed than those of Annamooka. On the 23d passed Pilstart Island, as supposed ; and on the 26th Middleburg Island, from which a few refreshments were procured, anchoring soon after at Anna- mooka, v/here they were grieved to find the tender had not yet appeared. Once more they proceeded on their voyage, and on the 7th of August made Wallis's Island ; next day another, which they named Greenville's Island, the men of which came off with hostile intentions, armed with clubs, which they flourished in defiance ; but, amazed at the size and novelty of a man-of-war, fled at the report of a musket. The llth, passed over a shoal of coral, on which was only eleven fathoms water, to their great astonishment and terror, and in five minutes more could not find bottom. On the 12th discovered an island well wooded, but not in- habited, which received the name of Mitre Island, from the shape of a remarkable promontory. Another small one, near it, was called Cherry's Island. Ne.xt day distinguished a third, named after Mr. Pitt ; on the I7th found breakers, under both bows, at midnight ; in the morning dis- covered they were embayed in a double reef, which doubtless will soon be an island. • Lieutenant Corner was now sent to look for a passage through a reef in their route, and in the evening they made a sign\l there was one ; but it was judged prudent, considering their former escapes, to wait for the morning. The ships therefore lay-to, signals being made for the return of the boat, which she had no sooner done than, to the astonishment of all, the ship struck on a reef at a moment when, from the precautions taken, it was thought there was no danger near them. All hands were soon at the pumps, the ship having nine feet water in the hold. At ten o'clock she beat over the reef into fifteen fathoms water, the night dark and stormy, the guns ordered to be thrown overboard, and a. sail to be drawn under her bottom ; one of the pumps, in addition to their other distress, being rendered useless. The boats which were out could not approach for the violent surf; at daydawn the water had gained so far that there was no possibility of saving the ship ; a council-of-war acquainted the crew witn this, who were remarkably obedient and intrepid in their inces- sant labour at the pumps ; the prisoners were now restored to liberty ; the spars, hen-coops, and everything buoyant cut loose, to give as many as possible a last stake fpr their lives. The water now rushed in at the 320 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. ports, the ship took a heel, and an officer infosmmg the captain that an anchor at the bow was already under water, at the same lime leapmg over the quarter into the water, desiring him to follow, which he did. All the crew did the same, when in an instant she took her last heel and was buried in the waves. The boats did all in their power to render assis- tance, but they could not save all, and the cries of the drowning were truly afflicting. When the sun rose they saw a sandy key four miles distant, to which they proceeded ; and, on mustering here, thirty-five sea- men and four prisoners were missing. Very fortunatelv a small barrel of water, a keg of wine, some biscuit, a few muskets and cartouch-boxes, had been saved; with a saw and hammer, found in one of the boats, they immediately set about repairing the whole, to fit them for a voyage to the nearest civilized port ; they were four in number, the Pin.'ace, Launch, and Red and Blue Yawls, to carry above 100 men. Having e.xamined their allowance, it was found there were only two small glasses of wine and the weight of a musket-ball of bread to each person for sixteen days ; the distance to Timor, their nearest port, being ilOO miles. No time was therefore to be lost. On the 30ih of August this little squadron put to sea, the principal provisions being in the Launch, to keep the boats together. The Red and Blue Yawls took the lead, and, examining some parts of the shore of New Holland, procured a small supply of water ; the natives at first appeared friendly, but soon after let fly a shower of arrows, many of which went through oak plank an inch thick, though fortunately without wounding any of the men. Two small islands, which they examined in vain for supplies, were named Plumb and Laforey's Islands ; the latter being the last place where any stay was likely to be made, every man had permission to re- fresh himself with sleep, but were soon awoke by the roaring of wild beasts. Lieutenant Corner was despatched to look for water, and digging four or five feet deep, found a spring ; a moral, or burying-place, was situated not far off, adjoining which were marks of a fire recently made, with many foot-paths toward it ; whence, from the bones strewed around it, was judged there had been some sacrifices. Some of the party found a few oysters, and all felt keenly the attacks of hunger ; wild fruits were eaten by several as soon as they saw that the birds also partook of them, a proof they were not poisonous. None of the party were permitted to straggle, the natives being evidently at no great distance ; every vessel they had was filled with water, and also the carpenter's boots, which, from their leaking, was first used. September 2d, proceeded on their voyage ; in the evening saw a high peaked island, which was called after Lord Hawkesbury ; and, passing through a channel about two miles wide and near several reefs, about which were some turtle, which could not be caught, entered the great Indian Ocean. Here the swell threatened destruction to their boats, for the preservation of which they took each other in tow ; but the line broke twioe, and the night proving tempestuous, they separated for a short time, but in the morning again united. On the 7th the captain's boat caught a booby, which, after sucking its blood, was divided into twenty-four shares ; thirst being greater than hunger, some wo\ild not have their allowance of bread. Early on the 13lh saw land, for which the discoverer was reward- ed with a glass of water ; the boats separating, made toward it, but for some hours, on account of the prodigious surf, could not find a landirjg place. At length succeeding, they found relief in a small supply of water, the greatest luxury in the world to them at this moment j and a Chinese eMvaRD EDWillDS. 321 ehief coming up, whom they made sensible of their sufferings, he shed tears at their distress, and supplied them with pork, fowls, and other re- freshments, 30 that they once more knew the gratification of a full meal of meat and drink. This island was Timor ; coasting along-shore, they reached Coupang, the capital, next evening, being most hospitably received by the governor and principal people, who, it was singular, had showed the same kindness to Captain Bligh, who also arrived in an open boat, that they now displayed to the officers who had come in pursuit of the former's rebellious seamen. Here they remained five weeks ; and on the 6th of October embarked in the Rembang Dutch Indiaman, reaching Samarang, in the Island of Java, on the 30th, after experiencing some bad weather, in which the English seamen displayed their superiority over even the hardy Dutchmen. To their great surprise, tliey found their tender here, so long supposed to be lost ; Mr. Oliver's (the commander) account was as follows : " The night they parted company the savages attacked them in a strong body in canoes, and, not knowing the effects of fire-arms, were not so much daunted as they otherwise would have been : the conflict was severe ; the English seven-barrelled pieces made great hav>c among them ; but, see- ing no missiles, they scarcely knew that their companions were killed. One had agility enough to spring over the hoarding-netting, and, levelling a deadly blow at Mr. Oliver, was shot before he effected his purpose. Not finding the Pandora next day, they steered for Annamooka, suffering extremely for want of water, so that one of the young gentlemen became delirious, and continued so for some months. Reaching Tafoa, close to Annamooka, the natives, notwithstanding their profession of friendship, attacked them, as they always do with small vessels, however civd they may be to large ones, but were driven off'by fire-arms. After sustaining much distress and several encounters with hostile savages, they made the reef between New Guinea and New Holland, upon which the Pandora struck ; and not finding any opening through which to proceed, boldly ran against it and beat over into deep water, the only alternatives being famine or shipwreck. From this peril they reached a small Dutch settle- ment, where the governor, having received a description of the Bounty's men, and Mr. Oliver having no commission, besides, their little bark being evidently of foreign timber, he believed, with every probability, that they were the mutineers. He therefore ordered them under a guard, but otherwise acted with great humanity, and, when an opportunity offered, sent them thither." Samarang is a pretty town, of considerable extent, the houses regular and handsome, and the streets terminating with some public building oi other, which has a pleasing effect to the eye ; but the introduction of canals rather injures than improves its beauty and salubrity. The gover- norship is second only to Batavia, and so lucrative, that the person who fills it is changed every five years. A regiment of the Duke of Wurtem- berg was doing duty here at the time, from which Cap*»in Edwards and his officers received many civilities. Alligators are common in the neighbourhood, and to those who bathe, or frequent the vicinity of the water, extremely dangerous. The governor informed them that one day, in hunting, one of the black boys, having to cross a rivulet, was seized ky one, upon which he dismounted and slew him, thus saving the lad's life. Quitting Samarang, they touched at Batavia, where, and during a tedi- ous passage to the caps, they lost several men by sickness. Here the English officers received every attention and refreshment after their 323 VOYAGES nOU.VD THE WORLb. faticnies Passing St. Helena and Ascension, they arrived, without any farther misadventure, at Rotterdam, whither the ship was bound ; and soon after had the satisfaction of setting foot once more on their native soil of Entrland. CAPTAIN G. VANCOUVER.— 1791-95. Notwithstanding the valuable discoveries of Cook, farther investiga- tion was required of some of the southern region.s, with which view a voyacTfi was planned by his majesty in autumn, 1789. and the command destined to Captain Henry Roberts, who had served under Captain Coo.k in the last two voyages. Captain Vancouver being named as bis second ; and for this purpose a ship of 310 tons was purchased, in a stale nearly finished ; and on being launclied was named the Discovery, and commis- sioned as a sloop; buT the disputes with Spain respecting Nootka Sound for a short time suspended her equipment. These differences being terminated, and the fisheries and fur trade of China being objects of material importance, it vvas^ deemed expedient to send an officer to Noot^ to receive from the Spaniards a formal restitution of the territories they had seized ; to survey the coast, and obtain every possible information of the natural and political state of the country. To this command Captain Vancouver was now appointed. The same ship, the Discovery, was equipped, carrying ten four-pounders and ten swivels, with 130 men, includino- officers. Captain Vancouver being captain, Messrs. Zechariah Miidtre, Peter Pacret, and Joseph Baker, lieutenants ; and Josejih Whid- bey, master. She was to be accompanied by the Chatham armed tender, of 13-5 tons, four three-pounders, sis swivels, and forty-five men, com- manded by Lieutenant W. R.. Broaghton ; James Hanson, second lieutenant ; and James Johnstone, master. Mr. Archibald Menzies, a surgeon of the navy, was also appointed for the special purpose of botani- cal research. On the 5th of February, 1791, the Discovery anchored at Spithead ; on the 11th of March proceeded down the channel to Falmouth, where she was, on the 31st, joined by the Chatham. On the 28th of April they made Teneriffe. They crossed the tropic of Capricorn the 12th of June, in 25 degrees 18 minutes, after which it was resolved to proceed by the Cape of Good Hope, whither they arrived the 10th of July, and where a variety of necessary repairs employed them till the 1 1th of August. After being detained by contrary winds and calms till the 17th, they then sailed out of Simon's Bay, bound for the coast of New Holland, and directincr. their course between the tracks of Dampier and Marion, over a space before unfrequented. On the 27th of September they made land, and, in latitude 35 degrees 3 minutes, and longitude 160 degrees 35 minutes 30 seconds, passed by a conspicuous promontory, to which Captain Vancouver gave the name of Cape Chatham, after the earl. Other places, which they successively passed, were called Baldhead, Break-Sea Island, Michaelmas Island, and Seal Island. Having gone on shore to fish, they discovered a most miserable human habitation lately deserted, in the shape of half a beehive, which had been divided vertically in two equal parts, one of which formed the hut, three feet in height, and in diameter four feet and a half, constructed of light twigs. To the northward they found a high rocky point, that attained the name of Point Possession, from the summit of which they gained an excellent view of the sound and the ad- Of. VANCOUVER, 323 jacent country, possessing a far more fertile prospect. This coast, and the country seen north-westward of Cape Chatham, was taken possession of formally in the name of his majesty, the part tirst discovered beincr King George the Third's Sound, and the harbour behuid Pomt Posses- sion Princess Royal Harbour, in honour of her birthday. In their way out of this harbour they found" a bank covered with most delicious oysters, and thence called Oyster Harbour. Near Princess lloyal Harbour, whde the ships' companies were employed in wooding and watering, was dis- covered a deserted village of two dozen miserable huts, some rather bette'- than others, evincing the residence of petty cliiefs. Throughout the whole coast traces of fire were perceptible. There were also seen several black swans swimming on the water ; but no smoke, or any indication of inhabitants. The natives appeared to be a wandering people, who sometimes made their excursions individually ; at other times in considerable parties ; this was apparent, by their habitations being found single and alone, as well as composing tolerably large, villages. Besides the village ihey visited, Mr. Broughton discovered another about two miles distant from it, of nearly the same magnitude ; but it appeared to be of a much later date, as all the huts had been recently built, and seemed to have been very lately inhabited. The larger trees in the vicinity of both villages had been hollowed out by fire, sufficiently to afford the shelter these people seemed to require. Upon stones placed in the inside of these hollow trees fires had been made, which proved that they had been used as habitations, either for the inferior of the pirty, which would argue a degree of subor- dination among them, or for those who were too indolent to build them- selves the wattled huts before described. From this coast Captain Vancouver proceeded to New Zealafld, which he reached on the 27lh of October, and anchored in Dusky Bay, when they encountered a heavy storm, the effects of which required considerable repair, particularly of the Discovery. Another heavy gale occurred on the 22d and 23d, after which, very unexpectedly, they made land, namely, a cluster of seven craggy islands, the Inrgest situated in latitude 48 de- grees 3 minutes, longitude 166 degrees 20 minutes, which had not been seen by Captain Cook. These sterile rocks Captain Vancouver denomi- nated The Snares. Another new island was discovered on the 22d of December, in 215 degrees 39 minutes. Several canoes came off to the ship, but the natives would not go on board, while they used every solicita- tion to induce the English to land. One at length ventured on board. These people were evidently of the Great South Sea nation, both from language and a similarity to the Friendly Islanders. Two or three of them ^remained on board nearly an hour ; but so much was their attention dis- tracted, that they could scarcely give an answer as to the name of tho island, or otherwise. It appeared on the whole that they called it Oparo, by which name it is therefore distinguished by Captain Vancouver. Tho tops of six of the highest hills bore the appearance of fortified places, resembling redoubts ; having a sort of block-house, in the shape of ar. English glass-house, in the centre of each, with rows of palisadoes a con- siderable way down the sides of the hills, nearly at equal distances. These, overhanging, seemed intended for advanced works, and apparently capable of defending the citadel by a few against a numerous host of assailants. On all of them they noticed people, as if on duty, constantly moving about. These were the only habitations they saw. On the 29th the Discovery reached Otaheite, where the^ had been ei* ^j^4 VOTAfiES ROUND TH£ WORLD. pect.d in consequence of information by an English vessel, which turned out to be the Ghaiharn, that bad separated near Facile Harbour, and arrived before them. The Chath:im, durmg her separation, had seen several immaterial lands, named by Mr. Broughton successively, Knight 3 Island, (the same as The Snares of Captam Vancouver,) Point Alison Mount Patterson, The Two Sisters, and Cape Young An island which he named Chatham Island, and the anchorage of which, m Skirmish iiay, was 43 degrees 49 minutes latitude, and 183 degrees 25 minutes longitude, was taken possession of in the name of his majesty. Here, having gone on shore, a number of the natives came about, held a conversation by signs and gestures, and readily received Mr. Broughton's presents, but would maki no exchanges. They were very anxious to have the party follow them to their habitations, but this was thought imprudent. Nothing wou d prevail on the islanders to giv- up any of their articles ; but they not only readily accepted, but carried off various things belonging to the party, and were particularly -anxious to got Mr. Broughton's fowling-piece, which he had fired, much to their alarm. Having, in order both to get information and to procure water, at length made signs of their intention to accompany the natives, it appeared that the latter had meditated hostility, having collected large sticks, swinging them over their heads, as if with an inten- tion of using°them ; several of them likewise had spears. Yet, being well armed, Mr. Broughton's party were not afraid, especially as they thought they had purchased the good opinion of the savages. They were, how- ever, mistaken ; an attack was made so violently, that both Mr. Broughton and Mr. Johnstone were reluctantly obliged to fire, as did the gentleman haviniT the charge of the boat, which occasioned the natives to fly, but not before one of them had unfortunately perished. On the Discovery anchoring, she was surrounded by canoes laden with the country productions. Captain Vancouver found that most of the friends he had left there in 1777 were dead. Otoo, now called Pomarrey, his father, brothers, and sisters, Potatou, and his family, were the only of their chiefs now living. Captain Vancouver and Mr. Broughton went on shore to fi.K on an eligible spot for tents, and to pay their respects to his Otaheitean majesty. They found Otoo (Pomarrey's son, and now king) to be a boy of about nine or ten years of age. He was carried on the shoulders of a man, and was clothed in a piece of English red cloth, with ornaments of pigeons' feathers hanging over his shoulders. When they had approached within about eight paces, they were desired to stop ; the present they had brought was exhibited ; and although its magnitude, and the value of the articles it contained, excited the admiration of the by-standers in the highest degree, it was regarded by this young monarch with an apparently stern and cool indifference. After some other cere- monies, a ratification of peace and mutual friendship being acknowledged on both sides, the different European articles composing the present were, with some little form, presented to Otoo ; and on his shaking hands with them, which he did very heartily, his countenance became immediately altered, and he received them with the greatest cheerfulness and cordiality. On the 2d day of January, 1793, arrived Pomarrey, who was, to his great gratification, saluted with four guns. With him came Matooara Mahow, the reigning Prince of Morea, under Otoo, but who was in a deep decline. At one of the entertainments on board, Pomarrey havinor drank a bottle of undiluted brandy, it threw him into convulsions ; after which, having slept for an hour, he was perfectly recovered. Captain Vancouver endeavoured to persuade him of the bad consequence of inebriety. The G. VANCOUVER. 325 chief on this accused him of being a stingy fellow, and not tio tio, (a jolly companion.) On this it was determined' to give him his own way, and orders were given to let him have as much brandy or rum as he should call for, which had completely the effect, for in a week' ho ceased to call for any. Pomarrey's father, formerly called Hapni, now Taow, also came on a visit, and a most affectionate mterview took place between the three sons and their aged and venerable father. A very difTerent scene was after- ward exhibited. It was announced that Otoo was approaching. On this occasion it became necessary that the grandfather should pay'homage to his grandson. A pig and a plantain leaf were instantly procured ° the good old man stripped to the waist; and when Otoo appeared in the front of the marquee, the aged parent, whose limbs were tottering with the de- cline of life, met his grand.son, and on his knees acknov;ledged his own inferiority, by presentmg this token of submission ; which, so far as could be discovered, seemed olYered with a mixture of profound respect and parental regard. The ceremony seemed to have little effect on the youno monarch, who appeared to notice the humiliating situation of his grand" sire with the most perfect indifference and nnconcern. This mode of be- haviour is, however, rather to be attributed to the force of education than to a want of the proper sentiments of affection. On the 14th a message was received of the death of Mahow, at Oparree, which district was, for some days, by a religious interdict, forbidden com- munication with the rest of the island. Mr. Broughton, and a party of the gentlemen belonging to the ships, having made an excursion for purchasing curiosities among the islands, landed to see the grand moral, or tapoota- pootatea. Movvree, the sovereign ofUlietea, who attended them, on ap- proaching the sacred spot, desired the party would stop until he should address the eatooa. Then, seating himself on the ground, he began praying before a watta, ornamented with a piece of wood, indifferently carved, on which was placed, for the occasion, a butidle of cloth and some red feathers. During this ejaculation the names of the party were twice mentioned. He likewise repeated the names of the several commanders who had visited the island ; together with those of " Keene Gorge " (that is. King George) and " Britarne," which vi'ere frequently expressed. When these introductory ceremonies were finished, Mowree attended them to every part of the moral, and explained every particular. He appeared to be well versed in all the ceremonials and rites appertaining to their re- ligion, which, made the party greatly lament their want of a competent knowledge of the language, as they were unable to comprehend his mean- ing, except in a few common instances. The next morning they were again honoured by a visit from Otoo and several of the chiefs, on their way to the moral. Soon after a canoe, covered with an awning, was seen coming from the westward, paddling in a slow and solemn manner toward the moral, in which was the corpse of the deceased chief On their expressing great anxiety to see Pomar- rey, for the purpose of obtaining permission to attend the burial ceremony, they were informed that he was gone to the moral, but would have no objection to their being present. They proceeded ; and near to the rivulet that flows by Urripiah's house, they saw the queen-mother, Fier-re-te, and the widow of the deceased Mahow, sitting all in tears ; and, in the paroxysms of their affliction, wounding their heads with the sharkt' teeth they had prepared the preceding evening. The widow had a small spot shaved on the crown of her head, which was bloody, and bore other evident marks of having frequently undergone the cruel effect of her deipair. Th» 28 ^25 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD body of Mahow, wrapped in English red cloth, was deposited under an awning in a canoe, whose bow was drawn up a liUle way on the beach near the morai, and was attended by one man only, at her stern, up to middle in water, to prevent her driving from the spot. The priests con- tinued chanting their prayers, frequently exalting their voices, until they ended in a very shrill tone, 'i'he address being ended, they all rose up and proceeded' westward along the shore, followed by the canoe in which was the corpse, to the mouth of the rivulet, where the three royal ladiea still continued to indulge their excessive grief; and, on perceiving the canoe, burst forth into a loud yell of lamentation, which was accompanied oy an accelerated application of the sharks' teeth, until the blood, very freely following, mingled with their tears The canoe entered the brook and proceeded'^toward another moral at the foot of the mountains, where the ceremonies to be performed on the body of the deceased required such secrecy, that on no account could the gentlemen be permitted to attend, althougli it was most earnestly requested. In consequence of a message frorn Pomarrey, Captain Vancouver and Messrs Bromrhton and Whidbey went to Oparree, to assist at the monrn- intr for the death of Mahow. The concern here of the relatives was by no means such as might have been e.xpected from their tender regard to the chief when alive. The corpse was laid on the tapapaoo, which seem- ed to have been erected for the express purpose, about a quarter of a mile to the eastward of the grand morai, (or, as it is called, " tapootapootatea,") and appeared to be then undergoing the latter part of the embalming pro- cess, in the same manner as described by Captain Cook in the instance of Tee. The body was exposed to the sun ; and on their approach the covering was taken off, which exhibited the corpse in a very advanced state of putrefaction. The skin shone very bright with the cocoa nut oil with which it had been anointed, and which they understood was highly impregnated with "aehigh," or sweet-scented wood. One of the arms and a leg being moved, the joints appeared perfectly flexible. Tl>e ex- tremely offensive exhalations that were emitted rendered it natural to conclude, that the whole mass would soon be completely decomposed ; but if credit may be given to their assertions, which were indubitably confirmed by the remains of Tee, and to which the captain could bear testimony, this will not be tho case. Pomarrey informed them, the corpse was to remain a month in this place ; then a month was to be em- ployed in its visiting some of the western districts ; after which it was to be removed to Tiarrabou for anothi^r month ; whence it was to be carried to Morea, and then; finally disposed with his forefathers in the morai of the family. In the course of a few months after its arrival there, it would gradually begin to moulder away, but by such very slow degrees, that several months would elapse before the body would be entirely consumed. The boat's crew were ranged before the paling that encompassed the tapapaoo ; a piece of red cloth from them was given to the widow, who spread it over the dead body ; some volleys were then fired, and the cap- tain was directed to pronounce " Tera no oea Mahow," that is. For you, Mahow. On some rain falling, the body was taken under cover and carefully wrapped up. They proceeded to an excellent new house of Whytooa's, where they dmed, and returned to Matavai with too large hogs, presented on this mournful occasion by the widow of Mahow. A s-srious theft of a large quantity of linen belonging to Mr. Broughton, as well as two axes, now demanded the most rigorous inquiry. An addi- tional mortification happened on the 21st. Towereroo, a Sandwich Is- G. VANCOUVER. 327 lander, (brought out from England in the Discovery,) had, in the course of the preceding night, found means to elope from the ship. After nuch trouble of investigation, and some coercion, on the 23d the three royal brothers brought back Towereroo, with a variety of expiatory presents. The linen there appeared now no prospect of recovering, witluut both losing iimo and having recourse to unpleasant measures ; it wi-s, thf re- fore, resolvfe.1 to depart without it ; presents as usual were dutriouted, and the separcxtior> took place with the utmost harmony Omai, it seeius, having died without children, the house wh ch Captain Cook had built 1 >r him, the lands that were purchased, an i the horse, which was still rJive, together with such European conrni'dilies as re- mained at his dea h, all descended to Matuara, as kiug of the island ; And, when his maje 5ty is at home, Omai's house is his constr nt residence. From Matuara they learned that Omai was much respected, and that he frequently afforded great entertainment to him and the olb^r chiefs with the accounts of his travels, and describing the various cou itries, objects, &c., that had fallei under his observation ; and that he t'led universally regretted and lamented. His death, as well as that of the two New Zealand boys left with liim by Captain (Jook, was occa* oned by a dis- order that is attended by a large swelling in the throat, of which very few recover. On the 24th of January the Discovery and Chalhain direc ted their course to the northward, for the first time pointing their heads to vard the grand object of the expedition. On the 2d of February passed * )wvhee, one of the Sandwich Islands, and were honoured by a visit fro n Tianna, the personage mentioned in Mr. Mearcs's voyage, who, since /lis return from China, had taken part with Tamaahmaah against Teamawh' -ere, and, being victorious, these two chiefs had agreed to share thegoverniaent. Tianna was taken on board to go on to the leeward islands. T ireehooa, who preferred the name of Jack, having been with Mr. Ingram cornmanditig an American ship, laden with furs, from North- West Ame ica, bound to Boston by the way of China, was desirous of continumg on board the Discovery, and to proceed the voyage, which, with consent of the chief, Was complied with. After passing some desolate islands, fie Discovery anchored, on the 7th of March, m a bay called Whykete, south of the Island of Woahoo, on good and safe ground. Some of th ? inhabitants went on board, and were exceedingly orderly and docile, vl 'ch appeared the more remarkable, as they had formerly been represented as the most daring and unmanageable of any in the Sandwich Islands. Their new ship-mate. Jack, became very useful ; he took \ pon him to represent them in the most formidable point of view to all his ci untrymen ; magnifying their powers and numbers, and proclaiming that the ■• were not traders, such as they had been accustomed to see ; but were belonging to King George, and were all mighty warriors. This being hii constant discourse, it is not to be wondered that his countrymen bec&'ne much intimidated ; and, as this could be productive of no ill consequei ces, they permitted Jack to proceed in his encomiums, and unanimously agreed it would not be his fault if they were not in high repute among the i danders. The natives having failed in supplying water as expected. Captain Vancouver set sail, on the 8th, for Atooi, where he understoid it was to be had without difficulty. Whyhetee Bay lies in latitude 21 degrees 16 minutes 47 seconds, and longitude 203 degrees 9 minutes 37 &°cond3. Next morning they made Whymea Bay, on the south side of Atooi. The inhabitants of this island behaved in the same orderly manner, and 328 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. with the same distant civility ezperienccd »t Woahoo, and gave the ne- eessary assistance in waten:^ineers, he was in hopes that his people would hereafter be able to build boats and snail vessels for themselves. On Saturday, the 1st of February, they laid down the keel, and began to prepare the frame-work of his Owyheaii majesty's first man-of-war. The length of its keel was thirty-six feet, the extreme breadth of the vessel nine feet and a quarter, and the depth of her hold about five feet ; her name was to be The Britannia, and was intended as a protection to the royal person of Tamaahmaah ; and few circumstances in his life ever afforded him more satisfaction. Some solemn rehgious rites being now to take place, Captain Vancou- ver had frequently expressed to Tamaahmaah a desire of being present on some of these occasions ; and he now informed him he had obtained the consent of the priests, provided he would, during the continuance of the interdiction, attend to all the restrictions which their religion demand- ed. The restraints imposed consisted chiefly in four particulars : first, a total seclusion from the company of women ; secondly, partaking of no food but such as was previously consecrated ; thirdly, being confined to the land, and not being afloat or wet with sea-water ; and, fourthly, not receiving, or even touching, the most trivial article from any one who had not attended the ceremonies at the moral. These restrictions were con- sidered necessary to be observed by the whole of the parly resident on shore ; and about sunset they attended the summons of the king at the morai, who was there officiating as high priest, attended by some of the principal residents of their religious orders, chanting an invocation to the setting sun. Their prayers seemed to have some regularity and form, and they did not omit to pray for the welfare of his Britannic majesty, and their safe and happy return to their native country. A certain degree of order was perceptible throughout these ceremonies, accompanied by many superstitious and mysterious formalities ; among which a very prin- cipal one was performed about the dawn of day. At this time the most profound silence was required of every creature within hearing of this sa- cred place. The king then repeated a prayer in a low tone of voice with the greatest solemnity, and in the middle of it took up a live pig tied by the legs, and with one effort dashed it to death against the ground ; an operation which must he performed without the slightest interruption or cry from the victim, or without the prevailing silence being broken by any noise whatsoever, though of the most trivial kind. This part of the ser- vice is supposed to announce their being on terms of friendship with the gods, on which the farther ceremonies were carried into execution. A number of hogs, plmtains, and cocoa nuts, were then consecrated for the principal chiels and priests ; the more common productions, such as fish, turtle, fowls, dogs, and the several esculent roots that compose their food during the intervals between these more sacred taboos, were not now served up, but for the first time since their arrival they fared sumptu- ously on those more delicious articles. The intermediate day, the 13th, and the second night, were passed in prayer, during which they found no difficulty in complying with the prescribed regulations, and soon after the sun rose, the 14th, they were absolved from any farther attention to their sacred injunctions. The cession of Owyhee to his Britannic majesty became now an object of serious concern. Some little delay and dilficulty, however, arose from the absence of two chiefs, Commanow, who from local circumstances could not quit his government, and Taraaahmootoo, chief of Koarra, the O- VANCOUVER. 343 person who had captured the Fair American schooner. Their first salit- tation being over, he caught the earUest opportunity to offer an apology for the offence that had so justly kept them strangers to each other. Ho complained of having been treated very ill by the crews of some vessels that had visited Toeaigh Bay, and particularly of his having been beaten by Mr. Metcalf, commanding the Eleonora, at the time when his son, who afterward had the command of the Fair American, was on board the former vessel. The glass went freely round after dinner ; and. as this ceremony was completely within the reach of Tamaahmootoo's imitation, he was anxious to excel in this accomplishment, by drinking vvith less reserve than any one at table. Vancouver thought it proper to remind him that, as he was not in the habit of drinking spirituous liquors like Tamaahmaah and the other chiefs present, it was necessary he should be upon his guard, lest the wine and grog should disagree with hiui ; but as his spirits became e.xhilarated he became less attentive to these admonitions, until the opera- tion of the liquors obliged him to retire. In this state it is not possible to imagine a countenance more expressive of indignation or of savage barbarity and resentment ; his eyes were fixed on the captain as he was carried out of the marquee, while his tongue, no longer confined within his lips, indistinctly uttered attoou-anni, signifying that he had poisoned him, and some present, even of their old acquaintance, seemed to be a little concerned for his safety. The king, however, laughed at their ap- prehension, and explained to them the cause of Tamaahmootoo's indisposi- tion, which, by the assistance of a little warm water,, was almost instantly recovered, and he rejoined their party, to the great entertainment and diversion of his countrymen, who were still very pleasantly regaling them- selves, and in the perfect enjoyment of each other's society. At one of their evening amusements the captain was very vi-ell enter- tained. This was a performance by a single young woman of the name of Puckoo, whose person and manners were both very agreeable. Her dress, notwithstanding the heat of the weather, consisted of an immense quantity of thin cloth, which was wound round her waist, and extended as low as her knees. This was plaited in such a manner as to give a pretty effect to the variegated pattern of the cloth ; and was otherwise disposed with great taste. Her head andneckwere decorated with wreathe of black, red, and yellow feathers ; but, excepting these, she wore no dress from the waist upward. Her ancles, and nearly half-way up her legs, were decorated with several folds of cloth, widening upward, so that the upper parts extended from the leg at least four inches all round ; this was encompassed by a piece of net-work, wrought very close, from the meshes of which were hung the small teeth of dogs, giving this part of her dress the appearance of an ornamental funnel. On her wrists she wore brace- lets madeot the tusks from the largest hogs. These were highly polished and fixed close together in a ring, the concave sides of the tusks being outward ; and their ends reduced to an uniform length, curving naturally each way from the centre, were by no means destitute of ornamental erfecl. Thus equipped, her appearance on the stage, before she utiered a single word, excited considerable applause from the numerous spectators, who observed the greatest good order and decoruui. In her performance, which was in the open air, she was accompanied by two men, vvho were seated on the ground in the character of musicians. Their instruments •were both alike, and were made of the outsides or shells of large gourds^ open at the top ; the lower ends ground perfectly flat, and as thm as pos 344 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. sible, without endangering their splitting. These were sfrnck on the ground, covered with a small quantity of dried grass, and in the interval between each stroke they beat with the hands and fingers on the sides of these instruments, to accompany their vocal exertions, which, with the various motions of their hands and body, and the vivacity of their coun- tenances, plainly demonstrated the interest they had, not only in eTcelhng in their own parts, but also in the applause which the lady acquired by her performance, advancing or retreating from the musicians a few short steps in various directions, as the nature of the subject and the numerous gestures and motions of her person demanded. Her speech, or poem, was first began in a slow and somewhat solemn manner, and gradually became energetic, probably as the subject matter became interesting ; until at length, like a true actress, the liveliness of her imagination pro- duced a vociferous oration, accompanied by violent emotions. These were received with shouts of great applause ; and although they were not sufficiently acquainted with the language to comprehend the subject, yet they could not help being pleased in a high degree with the performance On the 25th of February Tamaahmaah, King of Owyhee, in council with the principal chiefs of the island, assembled on board his Britannic majesty's sloop Discovery, in Kar.ikakooa Bay, and in the presence of George Vancouver, commander of the said sloop, Lieutenant Peter Puget, commander ol' his said majesty's armed tender the Chatham, and the other officers of the Discovery, after due consideration, unanimously ceded the Island of Owyhee to his Britannic majesty, and acknowledged themselves to be subjects of Great Britain. As their departure was now to take place with the first breeze from the land, Tamaahmaah and his queen, unwilling to take leare until the very last moment, remained on board until near midnight, when they departed, with hearts too full to express the sensations which the moment of separa- tion produced in each ; with them their honest and judicious counsellors, Young and Davis, returned to the shore. The good sense, moderation, and propriety of conduct in these men, daily increased their own respecta- bility, and augmented the esteem and regard not only of the king and all his friends, but even of those who were professedly adverse to the exist- ing government, and who consequently were at first inimical to their interest. As it was a great uncertainty whether the ships should or should not return again to these islands, the captain had given these two worthy characters their choice of taking their passage to their native country, or of remaining on the island in the same situation which they had so long filled with credit to themselves, and with so much satisfaction to the king and the rest of the principal people. After mature considera- tion, they preferred their present way of life, and were desirous of con- tinuing at Owyhee ; observing, that, being destitute of resources, on their return home they must be again exposed to the vicissitudes of a hfe of hard labour, for the purpose of merely acquiring a precarious supply of the most common necessaries of life, objects which, for some years past, had not occasioned them the least concern. Thus concluded their transactions at Owyhee, to which they bade adieu about three in the morning of the 3d of March. They left here, however, a banditti of renegadoes, that had quitted diflferent trading ves- sels in consequence of disputes with their respective commanders, who had resorted to this island since the preceding year, under American or Portuguese colours. Among them was one Portuguese, one Chinese, wid one (^engcse, but all the rest appeared tt^ be the subjects of Great O. VANCOUVER 545 Britnin, as soemed also the major part of ihe crew of the brig Washing- ton, although they called themselves Americans. With Kavaheeroo also resided a person by the name of Howell, who had come to Owyhee in the capacity of a clerk on board the Washington ; he appeared to possess a good understanding, with the advantages of an university education, and had been once a clergyman in England, but had now secluded him- self from European society, so that, with Young, Davis, and Boyd, there were now eleven white men on the island ; but, excepting from these latter, their Owyhean friends will have little reason to rejoice in any ad- vantages they will receive from their new civilized companions. After visiting some other parts of the Sandwich Islands, the ships finally bade them adieu on the 15lh of March, from which period, till the end of August, the whole time was occupied in a very extensive and minute survey of the coast of North-West America. Suffice it to say, that one great object of the voyage was, namely, to ascertain the existence of a north-west passage, or any water communication navigable for shipping. The North Pacific and the exterior of the American continent, within these limits, were completely examined, and it was proved that no such communication did exist, notwithstanding the assertions of Fuca, Fonte, and others, on that subject. On the 2d of September the Dicovery an- chored in Friendly Cove, Nootka Sound, where were three of his Catho- lic majesty's armed vessels, and some English and American traders. At Monterey they arrived on the 2d of November. Having on the 2d of December quitted it, and proceeded southward, they passed the three Marias Islands, and afterward the rich, but uninhabited. Island of Cocos. Its produce is luxurious and abundant, as are also fowl and fish. They afterward successively passed the Gallipagos Islands, Masafuero, and Juan Fernandez. On the 24th of March they gained a distant view of the lofty coast of Chili to the westward, in latitude 32 degrees 53 minutes, and at a sup- posed distance of forty leagues, the immense mountains of the Andes. Their destination was, however, the Bay of Valparaiso, which they reached next day. St. Jago, the capital of Chili, is stated to have been founded on the 12th of February, 1541. This city is the residence of the president, who is captain-general of the whole kingdom, and governor and presiding judge of the audience-chamber or court of justice. It is said to contain 30,500 inhabitants. The subordinate cities in this great kingdom are Coquimbo, Chilian, Conception, and Valdivia ; and the principal towns are Valparaiso, Capiapo, Vallenar, St. Francisco de Boria, St. Raphael de la Rosa, La Ligua, Quillota, Los Andes, Melipilla, St. Joseph, An- concagua, St. Ferdinand. Curico, Talca, Linares, Nueva, Bilboa, Cau- geres, and others of less importance. The kingdom of Chili is stated to extend, in a northern and southern direction, from the uninhabited parts of Atacama, which divides it from the vice-royalty of Peru, to the Straits of Magellan ; and, in a western and eastern direction, from the ocean to the foot of the Cordilleras, which divides it from the vice-royalty of Buenos Ayres. There is about a million of specie coined at St. Jago every year, which is the fund from v^hence the salaries of the state offi- cers, the military establishment, and other incidental expenses of the government are defrayed. The army consists of a battalion of infantry in Conception, two squadrons of horse, one company of dragoons, and two of artillery. The cavalry are all well-mounted, and extremely expert horsemen ; and were they as skilful in the use of fire-arms as they are ia 346 VOYAOES ROUND THE WORLD. the management of the sword and the lance, they would not be inferior to any troops of this description in Europe. The exterior commerce of the kingdom is principally carried on from the seaports of Conception, Coqi)imi)o, and Valparaiso : but the latter has the greatest sh^re of trade, arising from its central situation and its vicinity to the capital. The measured distance between St. Jago and Buenos Ayres they could not le-irn, but understood that the post travels from thence to the capi'.ai of Chili in twenty days ; and that the country, from Buenos Ayres until it reaches the foot of the Cordilleras, which run in A northern and southern direction, and pass to the eastward of St. Jago, is one entire desert, without trees or any other sort of vegetation, and that it is so completely a level plain, that even a hillock doe.s not ap- pear on Its surface. The nearest silver mine to St. Jago is at the dis- tance of about seven leagues, and the nearest gold mme is to the north- east of the city, at the distance of about thirty leagues. The houses in Valparaiso, on account of the earthquakes which fre- quently ha[)pen in South America, like those in St Jago, consist of the ground-floor only ; the walls are built with mud, and plastered over with a preparation of lime ; they arc convenient, well adapted to the climate, and arc in general handsoirely furnished. In the town and in the village of Almandrel there are si.x churches, v;ithin the diocess of the archbishop of St. Jago, but under the direction of a vicar, who resides at Valparaiso, and is amenable for his conduct to the archbishop. The town and its neiglibouihooil are under the jurisdiction of the governor, vvho receives his appointment, with a salary of 401)0 dollars per annum, from the King of Spiim ; but he is nevertheless under the immediate orders and control of the captain-general. All civil and military causes are heard at St. Jago. Capital offences are seldom committed ; a man was found guilty on a charge of felony, and hanged about three years before their arrival, a punishment that was seldom known to he inflicted. Nothing particular happened in the voyage round Cape Horn, and thence to St. Helena, where the Discovery arrived on the 2d of July, the Chatham having got thither before her. Here, in consequence of the hostilities with Holland, Captain Vancouver took a Dutch East Indiaman, the Macassar. On the 12th of September made the western coast of Ireland ; when, having seen the Discovery safely moored in the Shannon, he proceeded to London, resigning the command of the ship to Lieutenant Baker, and taking with him such books, papers, and charts, as were necessary to lay before the lords of the admiralty, relative to the ser- vices performed. In the course of this long voyage o*" four years eight months and twenty-nine days, the Discovery lost by disease, out of one hundred men, only one, and five by accitlents ; and in the Chatham not one died from disease or otherwise. CAPTAIN ETIENNE MARCHAND.— 1790-93. C.iPT.iiN Marchand, hearing of the success of some voyages to the north-west coast of America for furs, by English adventurers, projwsed to the commercial house of Ban.t, in Marseilles, a similar expedition ; which being agreed to, an effective ship, the Solide, of 300 tons, ten guns, and fifty oflScers and seamen, was placed under his command, and he sailed from Marseilles the 14th of December, 1790. January 15t.h, anchored for three days in Port Praya, St, Jago, after which nothing of ETIENNE MARCHAND. 347 8By importance occurred till they saw Staten Land from the mast-head the 1st of April, and by the 20th had sailed qniie round Terra del Fuego into tiie great South Sea, when they encountered the first heavy storm so common in these regions. Want of water compelled him to shape a course for the group of islands called Jlarquesas, discovered bv Mendana in 151)5, and since visited by Cook. June I'iih, discovered lliem, the vicinity of land ha- ving been indicated for some days liefore by flight.'jof terns, sea-swallows, and several oilier birds, which are kiiovvn not to proceed far from the shore. Steering for ilie Bay of Madre de Dios, ihey were met by many natives in canoes and swimming, blowing conchs, singing, and i)eating time on tlie sides of the cinoes, at the same time pointing out where water was to be procured. Several women at the same time dis- played their charms, offering them by no unequivocal signs to the sea- men. Before the Solide reached the bay, a flotilla of canoes surrounded her, many having come even from the Island of Dominica. One of their old men, after ]ironouncing a harangue, tied a piece of white cloth in the rigging, understood to be the signal of peace, and crying out, Tayo ! Tayo ! meaning friend. Toys were distributed freely among them, and looking-glasses excited much admiration and astonishment. Tlic crowd soon mcreased so much, that it was no longer possible to work the ship • but on being requested to retire, they complied in a very orderly manner each seeming to seek his cwn island, though at considerable distances. Early the next morning the ship was surrounded by above 500 natives, all eager to go on board ; but in the meantime strijiping off, with their fingers alone, pieces of iron and copper, which it would have required instruments and time for an European to remove. A gun was fired over their heads ; but instead of intimidating, it only served to increase their audacity ; a shot, which struck the rocks, had for a moment some little effect, till, recovering their alarm, several threw sticks on board, and struck their lances against the sides of the ship ; one snatched a musket from one of the men protecting the boats, and others attempted to remove the leaden pump from the stern ; a man of less humanity than M*rchand would probably have answered these hostile demonstrations as hostilely; but only firing two muskets sufficiently close for them to hear the balls whiz over their heads, order was in some degree restored. Women and young girls in hundreds flocked on board, an.xious to dispose of their per- sons for nails, beads, and other trinkets and implements ; and lest their overtures should not be sufficiently understood, the men were eager to become their interpreters. A blunderbuss of one of the watering party going off, accidentally wounded a native by breaking a bone of the arm ; this excited some fear among them, but no revenge ; the surgeon, Rob- let, proceeding on shore to dress it, found the arm very skilfully managed^ so as to display no small share of surgical knowledge ; presents and caresses were given to prevent any unfavourable impression from this unfortunate occurrence. In an excursion into the woods the same day, by (he captain, one of the natives snatched his musket and ran off; but, in attempting to pursue him, was immediately recalled by the danger of his servant, v^-hom he found seized by half a dozen islanders, who soon let go their hold, though not without carrying av ay his hat and a box he had under his arm. By the interference of a chief, however, the musket was restored the next day. Several fruits and vegetable refreshments were procured, with •bundance of water, but scarcely a hoj or fowl ; for, though they did not S48 VOYAGES ROUND THB WORLD. •ecm scarce, the owners would not part with them. Marchand, there- fore, set off ill the boats for some other biys in the neighbourhood, and at the second in his way procured twelve fine hogs, the natives civilly carrying the individuals of the party on shore and on board again, on account of a dai^gerous landing place. At another bay they were not so successful in their pursuit, though received equally friendly ; several petty thefts were committed, but on the whole the behaviour of the natives was friendly in a marked degree. Santa Christina, the only island of the group hitherto visited, is about seven leagues in circumference, the land high and rocky, the latter seem- ing of a V'jlcanic nature, many portions of it barren, and, taken on the whole, is infinitely less fruitful than either of the Society Islands ; so tiiat the people have by no means the superfluities of the Otaheiteans. Bread fruit and cocoa nuts arc here much more scarce. The sugar-cane is, however, very fine ; also a large species of chestnut. The islanders well remembered the name of Captain Cook, who touched here ; but not a single European article of any description was now observed among them, and to almost all of them they seemed utter strangers. Rats are excessively numerous, and destroy much of the food of the islanders; the hogs are small, but sweet and well-tasted ; a variety of birds abound in the woods, and enliven them with their songs ; rock-fish are in plenty in the bay ; and tiie shark is little regarded by the islanders, who swim about seemingly regardless of its fierce and ravenous attacks. The people are confessedly the finest race in the South Sea for beauty of person, the whole being very tail, well-formed, inclining to corpulency without being so, their chests and shoulders broad, their limbs muscular, and their activity on land or in water equally remarkable ; the common height is about five feet ten inches, but great numbers exceed six feet. Their colour is a bright brown, their hair of several shades, as flaxen, auburn, black, either long or curling. The countenance is open and frank, the nose being cither fiat or acquiline, the eyes large and black, and the teeth regular. They are in general naked, except a piece of cloth, made of the bark of a tree, tied round the loins for the sake of modesty ; but tattooing is so general, and so well and neatly executed, that this might almost be fancied a species of clothing of itself. The women are equally remarkable for beauty of person ; their clothing is not much more, but the tattooing considerably less than in the other sex ; in fact, clothing is an encumbrance, as much of their lime is spent in the water. The licentiousness of the greater part is, ho.vever, shameless and disgust- ing; even children of eight years old were publicly prostituted. 'rheir weapons are lances, a sort of sabre, pikes or javelins, and clubs ; their canoe.s are rude and ill formed, bearing no comparison to the ele- gance of those of Otahcite. The houses are built on stone platforms raised from the ground, as if they were exposed to inundations from the sea ; and likewise they use very curious stills, apparently for the same reason, on which they stalk about with great expedition. The scoop-net and sweep-net constitute their fishing implements ; their hatchet is, of a hard species of stone ; their household utensils consist of calabashes and various others, formed of wood ; and the great article of cloth is made from the bark of the paper mulberry tree. June 20th, at midnight, quitted the anchorage of Santa Christina, and next morning discovered high land in the north-west quarter, adjoining which were several isles, upon which the oflicers arjd seamen conferred the name of Isle Marchand. Some sandy bays were peiceived, with a ETIENN'E MARCHAND. 313 few rivulets of fine water running into them: a (t^r r.saves came on board, some without hesitation, others with the strongest symptoms of terror ; they spoke the same language, were of the same colour, and in other respects differed little or nothing from those of Santa Chrisiina, this being merely an extension of the Marquesas group ; but they seem- ed utterly unacquainted with their visiters, or with European commodi- ties ; for among them all they preferred glass bottles to everything else. Appearances of other islands were distinguished, one of which, to wind- ward, he could not reach, but called it Baux's Island, after the owners of his ship ; two others, not much elevated above the surface of the water, were named the Two Brothers ; while two more received the appella- tions of Masse's and Chanal's Islands, after the first and second officers of the Solide. The cluster had given to it the general name of the Re- volution Islands. Marchand's Isle is about ten or eleven leagues in cir- cumference, Baux's about fifteen; the former in 9 degrees 21 minutes south latitude, 143 degrees 19 minutes west longitude; the latter in 8 degrees 48 minutes south latitude, 142 degrees 31 minutes west longitude. June 2.5th, lost sight of these islands, steering for the north-west coast of America. Indications of land, such as birds, sea-weed, drift-wood not long in the water, and obscurities in the horizon, which, however, they had not time to examine, were perceived occasionally during the run to the American coast, which was seen on the evening of the 7th of Aui^ust, near to Cape Engana, or Edgcoinbe. They anchored at Pitt's Island, in Norfolk Sound, called by the natives Tchinkatanay, and next morninff about 140 men, women, and children, came round the siiip singing, which, it seems, is their usual practice on first becoming acquainted with strangers, bringing some furs, which they seemed very well to know the value of by the price demanded. In this traffic they have already acquired great skill and finesse, showing off their articles to the best advantage, and exainining and detecting the faults of those given to them in return with great minuteness. Woollen clothes were in the greatest request, many of the natives being entirely clothed with them, of English manufacture : they obstinately adhered to what they considered the value of their skins, and even when the ship was preparing to depart would not reduce the price ; one hundred otler-skins prime, two hundred and fifty cub otter- skins, thirty-six whole bear-skins, fifteen half skins, thirty-seven seal- skins, sixty bearer and racoon-skins, a bag of squi'rel-skins, a carpet of mountain rat-skins, and a quantity of otter-skins cut into slips and worn, constituted their purchase here ; the latitude of the cove where the ship lay was 57 degrees 4 minutes north, and longitude 137 degrees 59 minutes west. Tchinkatanay Bay is well protected by high mountains on all sides, their summits covered with snow which appears never to melt, and their brows with wood which never comes under the axe. The sea-otter, on which skin the Chinese place so much value, is about two feet ten inches in length, the tail about twelve or thirteen inches ; the fur is ex- tremely beautiful, and for a prime skin from sixty to ninety dollars are sometimes given at Canton. Its beauty varies in some measure with the season ; those killed in March, April, and May, being esteemed the best ; black is the general colour, but there are many of a brownish hue ; the weight of the'body, which, though insipid, is eaten by the natives, is from seventy to eighty pounds. The natives of this bay were rather short in stature, their noses snubbed and sharp, their eyes small and sunk in the head, their cheek-bones prominent, their faces round, their colour reddish or of a light brown, but dirt and the admlsture of various pig- 30 350 VOYAGES ROUND tHE WORLD. merits render it difficult to detcnitiine precisely what their natural huo is. Their favourite weapon is a metal dagger, fifteen or sixteen inches long, in which they lake no little pride, keeping it always in the highest pohsh. They take two meaU a day, about noon and in the evening, before which periods they regularly left" the ship lo be on shore in good time. They treat the women wiih attention, not giving them the laborious work which is imposed by some other tribes on the coast of North- West America ; and liie men likewise seem to feel pleasure in nursing their offspring, which is not often the case among savages. The women are reserved and modest; .ind the men, as m;iy be supposed from this circumstance, rather jealous, forming a remarkable contrast to the people of the South Sea Islands, and showing the superiority in moral feeling of the people of a cold or temperate to liiose of a tropical climate, both being equally savages, and, of course, ignorant of the decencies of civilized life. Their language is excessively harsh and uncouth, requiring at once a strong nasal aspiration and a guttural effort ; it seems, however, from what could be collected, that it is copious and varied, from the nicety with which the most minute parts of an animal, or other trivial things, were called and described. Marchand quitted this place the 21st of August for Queen Charlotte's Islands, and distinguished Cloak Bay, where he anchored ; but found few skins, a vessel haviiu'been there recently, which had carried them all off. A chief invited them to visit his habitation, forming a parallelogram, from forty-five to fifty feet in front by thirty-five in depth. Six, eight, or ten trees, cut and planted in each front, form the enclosure of a habitation, and are fastened to each other by planks ten inches in width ; the partitions, sir or seven feet high, are surmounted b] a roof a little sloped ; in the middle of the roof is made a large square ope.iing, affording at once entrance to the light and an exit to the smoke ; there are also sometimes a few small openings in the sides. These houses have two stories, though only one visible, the lower one being in fact under ground, the descetit to which is by half a dozen of steps, and here they reside during the winter. To one of the boats despatched to trade came a chief and several of his tribe, who, though possessed of several skins, seemed disinclined to part with them, e.'fcept at a high price, repealing frequently the name of Eng- lishmen, as if they would give more than their present visiters. The arms supplied by them were in general so bad, that one discharge with a ball or shot would probably have burst them. At length, when the boats seemed prepared to depart, the natives, who had hitherto held out for fire-arms, or blankets and woollen clothing, were willing to accept less valuable articles, such as boilers, pewter basins, pots, kettles, and a variety of other things of a similar nature. While they were quitting the place, a brig, about 200 tons burthen, with a tender along wiih her, hove in sight ; but showing no colours" an'j Marchand not wishing to speak with any stranger, no intercourse took place between them ; but, from the accounts of the natives, they turned out to be English. Fish, particularly of the shell kind, are numerous here ; water also is plentiful, and of excellent quality ; seals sport about in the bay ; whales appear off its mouth ; birds are very numerous ; but the only quadruped observed was the dog. The natives are very fond of gambling, by means of thirty small sticks variously disposed ; their women were modest, any intercourse that took place with the seamen being entirely from interested motives, and evidently not from consiifj- tional incitements. Another boat was now despatched down to Rennell't ETIENxVE MARCHAND, 351 Strait, to try for furs there, their success hitherto being much inferior to their expectations ; a good harbour was called after the second officer, Chanal's Harbour; but, after a fatiguiucr excursion for several days, very few skins could be procured. The Solide's course was now directed to Berkeley's Sound, in latitude 49 degrees, most other spots seeming to have been already stripped of their commodities by English rivals. September 4th, got sight of the land in this neighbourhood, and the next evening anchored ; on the morning of the 7th they saw five canoes approaching them, with six or seven men in each, who, having no skins themselves, directed the ship to proceed in a direction they ponited out, where several were to be procured. Tliese people were fairer than those on that part of the coast they had left; and their canoes, besides being larger, were constructed in a very superior manner. Standing in to Berkeley's Sound the day afterward, Marchand perceived a threc-rnasted vessel coming out, when, finding himself anticipated here as well as to the northward, and the stranger also standing to the southward, whither he intended to go, he thought fartlier competition would not turn out successful, and that the only chance of making the voyage profitable was to proceed at once to China, and sell his skins before there was any com- petition in the market. The officers agreeing in the propriety of this resolution, they set sail for the Sandwich Islands, in order to take in refreshments for the remainder of the voyage. October 4th, made Owyhee, the chief of the group. Dreading the character for enterprise and courage acquired by these islanders, Mar- chand thought it the most expeditious and safest plan to purchase his refreshments under sail, with which he was liberally supplied for iron and other wares ; but among the cargoes of hogs brought off were intermixed many women, whom, however, the Solide's crew very wisely declined lo admit on board. The famous mountain Mowna Roa, in Owvhee, was per- ceived by the Solide about forty-si.x leagues distant from the island and more than fifty from its summit, and is computed to be from 15,000 to 16,020 feet high, being the highest mountain on the globe, except Himmaleh and Cimborazo. The mountain of Movvee is nearly half this height ; Atooi is also much elevated, being distinguished thirty leagues off. On the 7th quitted the Sandwich Islands for the run across the Pacific Ocean ; and on the 3d of November made the Island of Tinian, between which and Saypan he intended to pass to clear the archipelago, but ultimately ran to the northward of Saypan ; this cluster, though called by Magellan, their discoverer, Ladrone (or Thieves') Islands, arc also known now by the name of Mary Ann Islands. On the 17th of Novem- ber saw the Islands of Botel Tobago Xima, situated at the south end of Formosa; and three days afterward found the ship in the midst of a fleet of Chinese fishing-boats, the owner of one of which, for seventy dollars, promised to pilot them to Macao, in the road of which the anchor was dropped on the 25th. On comparing dates, it appeared they had lost a day by sailing round the world by the west, and, instead of the 26lh, was obliged, next day, to write Sunday, the 27th. Here the speculation of the voyage turned out truly unfortimate, the sale of skins being prohibited in consequence, as it was supposed, of a new treaty of commerce with Russia, by which the furs of the laUerwere to have a preference. Two vessels were already here with cargoes of these articles, which could not be sold ; Marchand therefore determined to proceed at once to the Isle of France ; had there been even permission to dispose of the lading, the price of prime otter-skins had fallen from 353 VOYAGES nOTJND THE WORL0. sixty to fifteen dollars the preceding year. While here an American vessel came in, the captain of which had been at the Marquesas a month before Marchand, but without landing ; and who afterward, m proceedmg to the north- west, had observed in May that group which, next month, Marchand examined and called Revolution Islands. He therefore was anticipated m the discovery without knowing it : but the American had made no effort to have any intercourse with the natives, or to examine the new lands. December 6th, quitted Macao, and directed the course so as to strike the bank of the Macclesfield shoal by sounding, in the middle of the China sea ; on the 1 1th saw the Island of Pulo Sapata, and four days afterward that of Pulo Timoan, Pulo Pisang, and several others connected with the latter, which form high land, distinguishable at a considerable distance. The 18th, distinguished the Island of Banca, and passed through Caspar's Straits with safety, though then little known to French navigators, except by name ; a week afterward got sight of the coast of the great Island of Sumatra, and, passing through the Straits of Sunda, made sail for the Isle of France; first seeing, however, the Cocos Islands, in II degrees 54 minutes south latitude, a small group tlirown 105 leagues to the south- west of Flat Point, the most southern of Sumatra. After making Rodri- guez Island, situated 101) leagues directly to windward of the Isle of France, the Solide reached the latter the 30th of January, anchoring in Port Louis, or Port North-West, the principal harbour of that island, after being thirteen months and a half, with the exception of thirty days, con- stantly under sail. At this place they remained till the 18th of April, when, getting tinder weigh, the Solide reached St. Denis, in the Island of Reunion, or Bour- bon, situated ninety miles to leeward of the former, remarkable for producing fine coffee and cotton. May 16th, passed Cape Aiguillas, in Southern Africa, steering for the Island of St. Helena, at which Marchand cast anchor the 4th of June. This land is sufficiently high to be discerned in clear weather at the distance of twenty leagues. It presents at first sight nothing but a heap of craggy rocks, with here and there valleys be- tween. On Sugar-loaf Point is seen a small fort, past which it is necessary to proceed, on which is this warning to ships coming in — " Send the ship's boat on shore " — which, if neglected, the fort will somelimes fire at the offender. James Town, the only one in the island, and situated in aralley of the same name, is commanded by two hills on each side and above it, that on the right being Rupert's, and that on the left Ladder Hill. Several batteries and redoubts scattered in every practicable place, with the steep- ness of the shores, and the difficulty, or, indeed, impossibility, of ascend- ing the rocks, render landing by an enemy utterly impracticable. The island is therefore impregnable, for the battery of Ladder Hill alone would sink any vessel in the roads, or destroy any boats that attempted a dis- embarcation. All vessels that require more than twenty casks of water pay anchorage dues, amounting to twenty dollars, or five pounds ; foreign- ers are not charged higher than the English Indiamen. In 1791 and 1792 a great drought afflicted the island, which caused extreme loss and distress. In 1789 were reckoned here 3000 head of cattle, besides con- siderable numbers of sheep, goats, and poultry, and supplies of potatoes and other vegetables ; but the drought of the succeeding years destroyed more than half of the live stock. The island is situated in the Atlantic Ocean, 300 leagues from Oap* MISSTONARV VOYAGE. 353 Negro, the nearest point of Africa, and 600 from Cape Augustine, in South America; it is about twenty-eight miles in circumferer.ee, and seems only the calcined summit of an isolated mountain of very great height from its base in the ocean, as the sea, at a little distance from its ehores, is unfathomable ; nor is there any land nearer to it than 700 m'lcs. The population at this time consisted of 2000 whites, about GOO soldiers, and the same number of slaves. On the 20lh of June crossed the line in 25 degrees west longitude from Paris, and on the 2d of August saw the land of Europe, near to Cape St. Vincent ; on the 14th anchored in the inner harbour of Toulon, after an absence of twenty months, being the shortest voyage round tlte world vet effected. MISSIONARY VOYAGE.— 1796-98. [The following voyage, though not strictly round the world, is so connected ■with our subject — and besides so novel in its design, and so truly benevolent and Christian-like in its object — that we cannot withhold it from our readers ; particularly as a more general knowledge of its details must highly interest a community so eminently Christian as our nation, and perhaps add to the funds of a society, in every point of view, so deserving of support and respect.] The discoveries made in the great southern sea by the voyages under- taken at the command of his majesty, George the Third, e.xcited wonderful attention, and brought, as it were, into light a world till then almost un- known. Islands, it may be said, innumerable were found to cover the bosom of the Pacific Ocean in different groups. The merchant considered if they would afford any object of commerce ; the naturalist eagerly ex- plored the peculiar subject of his researches, and the astronomer sought a station from whence he might observe the transit of Venus over the sun, and deduce from thence useful improvement in the celestial science. Reflections on their unhappy situation had dropped from the pen of the humane, and pity had often swelled the bosom of the compassionate : a few felt for them, not only as men, but as Christians, and wished some mode could be devised of communicating to them the knowledge of that inestimable book, compared with which all besides is pompous ignorance, and all the treasures of the earth lighter on the balance than vanity itself. A Missionary Society was in consequence formed in England, and zea- lously seconded by their brethren in North Britain. On notifying their intentions to the public, they met a spirit of zeal and liberality highly encouraging ; applications manifold were poured in of candidates for the mission, with subscriptions adequate to the undertaking. None but men the most select for piety were to be admitted ; but especial- ly adepts in such useful arts and occupations as would make them most acceptable to the heathen in that state of inferior civilization to which they were advanced. Thirty men, six women, and three children, were approved, and presented to the directors for the commencement of tho mission. List of the Missionaries who embarked on board the Duff, at BlackteaU NO. NAMES. AGE. OCCUPATIONS. 1 Rev. James Fleet Cover, , 34 Ordained Minister. 2 John Eyre, . 28 Do. Do. 3 ^ohn Jeffer?on, . . |5 Do, Dc. 354 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. NO. NAME3, 4 Rev. Thomas Lewis, 5 Mr. Kcnry Bickiiell, 6 Daniel Bowell, . 7 Benj. Broomhall, 8 John Buchanan, . 9 James Coojjer, 10 John Cocic, 1 1 William Crook, la Samuel Clode, , 13 John A. Gillham, 14 Peter Hodges, . 15 William Henry, 16 John Harris, . 17 Hudden, . 18 Samuel Harper, 19 Rowland Hassell, 20 Seth Kelso, . 21 Edward Main, . 22 Isaac Nobbs, 23 Henry Nort, 24 Francis Oakes, 25 James Puckey, . 26 William Puckey, 27 William Smith, . 28 William Shelly, 29 George Veeson, . 30 James Wilkinson, 31 Mrs. Mary Cover, 32 33 34 35 36 Elizabeth Eyre, Elizabeth Hassell, Sarah Henry, . Mary Hodges, ■ Hudden, . 37 James Cover, 38 Thomas Hassell, 39 Samuel Otoo Hassell, AGE. OCCUPATIONS. 31 Ordained, and has attended the hospitals and dispensaries, and understands printing. 29^ House-carpenter, sawyer, and 22 Shopkeeper. [wheelwright. 20 Buckle and harness-maker. 31 Tailor. 28 Shoemaker. 23 Carpenter. [worker. 2 1 Gentleman's servent, and since tia- 35 Whitesmith and gardener. 22 Surgeon. 29 Smith and brazier. 23 Carpenter and joiner. 39 Cooper. — Butcher. 26 Cotton manufacturer. 27 Indian weaver. 48 Weaver. 24 Tailor, (late of the Royal Artillery.) 24 Hatter. 22 Bricklayer. 25 Shoemaker. 25 Carpenter. 20 Carpenter. 21 Linen-draper. 21 Cabinet-maker. 24 Bricklayer. 27 Carpenter and joiner, WOMEN. 37 Wife of J. F. Covei. 64 John Eyre. 29 Rowland Hassell. 23 William Henry 25 P. Hodges. Hudden. CHILDREN. 12 Son of J. F. Cover. 2 Rowland Hassell. 16 weeks. Do. Captain Wilson and the first mate, his nephew, were persons in every view equal to the undertaking, and as hearty in the work as the missiona- ries themselves. Many of the sailors were men of a like mind ; about half were communicants, and every man was eager to beg admittance, under the profession of wishing to be instrumental m so blessed a service, and the hope that he should gain benefit and edification to his own soul. The preparations being completed, and the missionaries ready for em- barcaiion, the directors of the society were very anxious for the Duff's sailing with the East India convoy. They now took their final departure from Portsmouth, and launched forth on the great deep the 24th of September, 1796. The signal for sailing being given, the missionaries came on deck, and every countenance seemed elated with joy at the thought of soon being employed in the great work. MISSIONARY VOYAGE. 355 Proceeding fast to the southward, on the 13th of October, about nine, A. M., they saw Sal, which is the northernmost of the Cape de Verde Isles ; it has a sun-burnt appearance, insomuch that, as they sailed alono- to the eastward, about three miles otf shore, there was not a tree or green spot to be seen. With pleasant weather, all sails set, and a fine fair wind, by eleven, A. M., could discern St. Jago off the deck. At one, P. M., passed the south-east point, and half an hour after tacked close to Green Island ; then made two short tacks, and came-to with the small bower in eight fathoms. 18th. Having completed their refreshments here, and afresh taken their departure, at a little distance off the island a fine breeze sprang up, and continued from east-south-east to east-norih-east. 22d, a number of sharks were playing round the ship ; they caught two, each about five feet long ; after being cut into pieces, and the entrails taken out, the heads jumped about the deck for a considerable time. 12th of November, at daylight, made sail and ran for the harbour of Rio de Janeiro ; but the breeze failing, and the tide contrary, it was one o'clock in the afternoon before they reached the entrance. When nearly there, a pilot-boat came alongside, in which was the head harbour-master, who look charge of the ship. Quitting this place, they now proceeded on their voyage, in hopes of effecting it by the way of Cape Horn, which was their original intention. The captain had laid in a fresh store of such provisions as this place afforded, with sugar, wine, and whatever might be necessary in the long run before them. 20th. Lord's day. Brothers Eyre and Jefferson preached. In leaving this harbour, and again launching into the deep, they thought on all the mercies of God, who had dealt so wonderfully with them, and protected them hitherto in safety through the pathless ocean ; they could, with humble dependence, trust him for the future. During the first few days nothing remarkable occurred. December 3d. In the morning the sea ran exceedingly high, and the wind blew a com- plete storm, which reduced them to a close-reefed main-topsail and fore- sail. Several of their live stock died, either by the cold or the spray of the sea, so that they were in danger of losing the whole of this invaluable preservative of health. Not only the greater part of the missionaries were sea-sick, but some of the seamen also. Mrs. Eyre, already ex- hausted by continued illness, seemed unable long to sustain these greater trials. Bein? thus situated, the captain was apprehensive that, m per- severing in their endeavours to double Cape Horn, their raw, unseasoned company of landmen, women, and children, might fall victims to the re- peated storms and colder weather, which they might expect to meet with in the attempt. Therefore, the captain, after deliberately weighing the cir- cumstances, relinquished a plan which, to execute, required a ship's crew of hardy sailors, unaccompanied by tender women and children, and adopt- ed the resolution of going the eastern passage ; that is, to pass a few degrees south of the Cape of Good Hope, to sail to the sontlrward of the south capes of New Holland and New Zeiiland, keeping in the track of the westerly winds till near the meridian of Otaheile, and then to steer to the northward for that island. The missionaries were now applying themselves to the Otaheitean language, the most diligent givmg pleasing proofs of their desire and aptness to acquire it. A part of each day was also appropriated to reading the Rev. Mr. Greaihead's account of the South Sea Islands ; this they styled Missionary Geography, from thence deriving consi'derable knowledge ; their minds also became more exercised, 356 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. and a dilTercnce of opinion gradually increased concerning the propriety of thpir separating, and which group appeared the most eligible and safe to seUle i'n; some preferred the Friendly Isles, and others Otaheite. John Hh; ris alone was for the Marquesas ; he had long ago made that choice, and still remained unshaken in his resolution, desiring only to have one or two to accompany him, and for that purpose was now using his interest with the young men, few of whom as yet seemed inclined to settle at the Marquesas. In consequence of the probabdity of such a separa- tion taking place, a meeting of the whole body of missionaries was held, when, after a long conversation, it was moved, " That eight persons and tiie chairman (the captain) be chosen to draw up a code of church govern- ment for the future conduct of their little society, together with certain religious principles, to be signed by every individual." February 21st. Ninety-seve > d;iys had now passed since they left Rio Janeiro, and, e.xcept one vessel met with a week after their departure, they had not, in all this time, seen either ship or shore, and had sailed, by log, 13,820 miles, a greater distance probably than was ever before run without touching at any place for refreshment or seeing land. About seven in the morning Toobonai was discovered from the fore-yard by one of the seamen, bearing south-east by east, eight or nine leagues off, show- ing at this distance like two separate islands. This island was discovered by Captain Cook in the year 1777; and upon it the unhappy Fletcher Christian, with his companions, the mutineers of the Bounty, attempted a settlement in 1789. Having frequently discussed the subject of the separation of the brethren among the three groups of islands, the Mar- quesas, the Society, and Friendly Islands ; February 27th, being the day appointed, the society met, and the business of the day was opened in the usual manner, when there appeared for each group as in the following list : Otah'tfe. — Reverends J. F. Cover, John Eyre, John Jefferson, Thomas Lewis ; .Messrs. H. Bicknell, B. Broomhall, J. Cock, S. Clode, J. A. Gdlham, Wdliam Henry, P. Hodges, R. Hassell, E. Main, H. Nort, F. Oakes, J. Puckey, William Puckey, William Smith ; which, with five women and two children, make in all twenty-five for Otaheite. Tongntahoo. — Messrs. D. Bowell, J. Buchanan, J. Cooper, S. Harper, S. Kelso, I. Nobbs, W. Shelly, G. Veeson, J. Wilkinson, — Gaulton, (a probationer.) Santa Christina. — Messrs. J. Harris, W. Crook. Nothing material occurred till Saturday morning, March 4th, when they beheld the long wished-for island of Otaheite, but at a great distance. The morning (Sunday) was pleasant, and, with a gentle breeze, they had by seven o'clock got abreast of the district of Atahourou, whence they saw several canoes putting off and paddling toward them with great speed ; at the same time it fell calm, which being in their favour, they soon counted seventy-four canoes, many of them double ones, containing about twenty persons each. Being so numerous, they endeavoured to keep them from crowding on board ; but, in spite of all efforts to prevent it, there were soon not less than 100 of them dancing and capering like frantic persons about the decks, crying, " Tayo, Tayo !" and a few broken sentences of EngHsh were often repeated. They had no weapons of any kind among them ; however, to keep them in awe, some of the great guns were ordered to be hoisted out of the hold, while they, as free from the apprehension as the intention of mischief, cheerfully assisted to put them on their carriages. When the first ceremonies were over, the mis- sionaries began to view their new friends with an eye of inquiry ; th?ir MISSIONARY VOYAGE. 357 wild disorderly behaviour, strong smell of the cocoa nut oil, together with the tricks of the arreoies, lessened the favourable opinion they had formed of them ; neither could they see aught of that elegance and beauty in their women for which they have been so greatly celebrated. This at first seemed to depreciate them in the estimation of the brethren ; but the cheerfulness, good nature, and generosity of these kind people soon removed the momentary prejudices. One very old man, Manne Manne, who called himself a priest of the eatooa, was very importunate to be tayo with the captain ; others, pretending to be chiefs, singled out such as had the appearance of officers for their tayos ; but as they neither ex- ercised authority over the unruly, nor bore the smallest mark of distinc- tion, they thought proper to decline their proposals till they knew them and the nature of the engagement better. At ibis they seemed astonished, but still more when they saw their indifference about the hogs, fowls, and fruit, which they had brought in abundance. The brethren endeavoured to make them understand, that this was the day of eatooa, and that in it they durst not trade ; but their women repulsed, occasioned greater won- der. They continued about the decks till the transports of their joy gradually subsided, when many of them left of their own accord, and others were driven away by the old man and one named Mauroa, who now exercised a little authority. Those who remained were chiefly ar- reoies from Ulietea, in number about forty ; and being brought to order, the brethren proposed having divine service upon the quarter-deck. Mr. Cover officiated ; he, perhaps, was the first that ever mentioned with reverence the Saviour's name to these poor heathens. Such hymns were selected as had the most harmonious tunes ; first, "O'er the gloomy hills of darkness ;" then, " Blow ye the trumpet, blow ;" and, at the conclusion, " Praise God, from whom all blessings flow." The text was from the first Epistle general of John, chap. iii. ver. 23. " God is love." Tho whole service lasted about an hour and a quarter. During sermon and prayer the natives were quiet and thoughtful ; but when the singing struck up, they seemed charmed and filled with amazement ; sometimes they ■would talk and laugh, but a nod of the head brought them to order. Upon the whole, their unweariness and quietness were astonishing ; and, indeed, all who heard observed a peculiar solemnity and excellence in Mr. Cover's address on that day. They had hitherto received very unsatisfactory answers to their inqui- ries after the Matilda's crew ; but at last saw two of them coming m a canoe : these were Swedes, dressed in the teboola and maro as the na- tives, and tattooed also about the legs and arms : having got on board, they were called into the cabin, and gave the following account of them- selves : — The youngest, named Andrew Cornelius Lind, about thirty years of age, a native of Stockholm, said, that after the loss of the Ma- tilda they took to their boats, and bearing down toward Otaheite, landed on the 6th of March, 1792, on the south side of the island ; they were immediately plundered of all they had, but afterward treated kindly by the natives. Since then the captain and most of the crew had gono homeward by dilferent methods ; six of them decked one of their boats, and set off toward New Holland ; but it was improbable they would ever reach thither. The other, whose name is Peter Haggerstein, aged forty, a native of Elsinfors in Swedish Finland, was left here by Captain New of the D»dalus. They both spoke tolerably good English, and being well acquainted with the Otaheitean tongue, the bfethren entertained » hope that they would prove of great service. 358 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. Almost \\ni whole afternoon it rained hard, till near four o'clock, when they had some intervals of fair weather ; then the captain, Manne Manne, the two Swedes, with brothers Cover, Henry, and a few more of the mis- sionaries, went on shore, in order to examine a large house standing on the extremity of Point Venus. They called it E Fwharre no pritane, (the British house.) and said it had been built by Pomarrey for Captain Blic^h, who had said he should come back and reside there. It is a large and spacious building, of an oblong figure, one hundred and eight feet long and forty-eight wide. About three feet within the sides stand pillars all round, about nine feet long, and six feet distant from each other. About one foot from these pillars, on the outside, runs a screen of bamboo all round, except about twenty feet in the middle on both sides. The chief of the district (an old man named Pyteah) welcomed them to the island, said that the house was theirs, and should be cleared for their reception the ne.xt day. Manne Manne, the aged high priest, had brought five of his wives with him on board, not one of whom exceeded fifteen years of age, and desired he might sleep in the cabin ; and, according to the custom of the country, very cordially desired Captain Wilson, his tayo, to take his choice, and could hardly persuade himself he was serious in declining the offer ; nor failed the next morning to inquire of them which he had chosen. The rain prevented the missionaries landing till near eleven in the forenoon ; when the captain, Mr. Jefferson, (president,) with a few more of the missionaries, went on shore, accompanied by Manne Manne and Peter. The natives had assembled upon the beach to the number of 4 or 500 ; and as the boat approached some ran into the water, and laying hold of her hauled her aground, then took the captain and missionaries on their backs, and carried them dry on shore. They were received by the young king (Otoo) and his wife Tetua, both carried on men's shoul- ders. The captain now informed the king, through Peter as interpreter, that their only inducement for leaving Pretaiie to come and visit them was to do them good, by instructing them in the best and most useful things ; and for this end some good men intended to settle among them ; requiring, on their part, the free gift of a piece of land sufficiently stock- ed with bread fruit and cocoa nut trees, and so large as to contain a gar- den and admit of houses being built upon it ; that this land should be their own ; that they would not, on any account, intermeddle in their wars, nor employ their arms but for self-defence ; and at all times should live free and unmolested among them ; to which, if he consented, they would stay on the island ; if not, they would go elsewhere. Much pains were taken to make this plain ; but as Otoo appeared to be a vacant-looking person, they doubted whether he understood the half of it, though he siTnified the large house was their own, and they might take what land they pleased. After dinner Otoo and his wife came off, each in a small canoe, with only one man paddling ; while they went several times round the ship, the queen was frequently bailing her canoe with a cocoa nut shell. He appears tall and well made, about seventeen ; his queen hatidsome and finely proportioned, about the same age, and always carried about, on shore, on men's shoulders. The king appears thoughtful, speaks little, but surveys things with attention. 8th. It rained hard all the morning till about nine o'clock, when it cleared up, and the missionaries went on shore with their chests and bed.s, and took possession af their house. The first thing with the house was to close it quite round with the thicker sort of bamboo,.fixing a door MISSIONARY VOYAGE. 359 On each side, and by that means to keep the natives from crowding them. The several berths or apartments were next planned, and partitions of smaller bamboo begun ; but, in consequence of the great (iistance the natives had to go up the valley for these bamboos, the work went very slowly on, though one man stripped his own house to supply them. lOtli. The captain landed for the purpose of presenting some showy dresses to the young king and his wife. They met him at the beach as usual ; Peter informed him of what was intended, and, showing him the box which contained the treasure, desired Otoo to walk toward his house, a temporary shed they had erected for the purpose of being near our peo- ple. This was complied with ; and when they came near, the captain, stopping under a tree, ordered them to form a ring, and placing the box in the midst, Otoo was requested to alight, that the brethren might dress him ; he replied, by and by, and gazed sullenly for a considerable time, till the patience of the captain was pretty well exhausted; repeat- ing the request and receiving no answer, they opened the bo.t, and on taking out the dress for the queen, she instantly alighted from the man's shoulder, and Otoo followed her example. The fancy cap fitted her exceedingly well, and she seemed very proud of it, but it was only by unripping that the other articles could be put upon her or Otoo. The captain told him that the earees of Pretaiie thought he was not yet so stout a man. Dressed complete in this gaudy attire, the surrounding crowd gazed upon them with admiration. She, true to the foibles of her sex, appeared delighted ; but Otoo thought little of them, saying, an axe, a musket, a knife, or a pair of scissors, were more valuable, which was saying more for himself than they ejcpected, or that he had even sense to do. After dinner, next day, the pinnace was manned for the women and children, and, by the captain's desire, fi'Ir. Wilson accom- panied them on shore. A''ast numbers of the natives crowded to the beach to gratify their curiosity, all behaving with greac respect and very peaceable. Otoo and his wife kept for a while at a little distance, seem- ing in doubt whether he should approach the women ; but thinking it proper to salute him, he was a little encouraged. The house was sur- rounded all the afternoon by the natives, who were much delighted with the two children, and sent often for them and the two women to show them- eelves at the door. In the dusk of the evening they all retired ; and this, the brethren remark, they had uniformly done since they first landed. Before the Otaheiteans departed they were informed no work would be done the next day ; and they asked if it would be more devoted to prayer than the other days, and were told it would. The Sunday passed very quietly, not one canoe coming near the ship, and on shore no inter- ruption was attempted, the natives, the king and queen, attending, and conducting themselves in peace and good order. About four in the afternoon Pomariey and his wife Iddcah, having just arrived from Tiarrabou, paid their first visit at the ship ; besides his usuil attendants a number of others had put themselves in his train. When alongside he refused to come farther till the captain showed himself; this being done, he immediately ascended the side, and coming on to the quarter-deck, wrapped four pieces of cloth round the captain as his own present ; then taking that off, repealed the operation with the like quan- tity in the name of Iddeah. The first ceremonies over, he told the cap- tain that he would send provisions and whatever they had occasion for while they staid at Otaheite. When seated in the cabin, he expressed hii regard for the English and called Kmg George his friend. On thi» 3^0 voyagbs round the world. the interpreter was desired to inform him, that King George loved him, and that the earees of Pretane did the same ; and that, out of regard for him and his people, they had sent this ship, with some of the best men, purposely to do them good : and then desired to know whether he was pleased that part of our number should reside on his island. He imme- diately answered in the affirmative. A piece of land for their use was nezt mentioned to him ; to which, after a few words with his privy counsellor Iddeah, he answered that the whole district of Matavai should be given to the English, to do with it what they pleased. 14ih. This morning Manne Manne and several others came on board, all behaving respectfully to Pomarrey. The captain, in order to cultivate his friendship, made him a present of an excellent single-cased metal watch, with which he was very much pleased ; observing, that no one before ever made him a present of the kind. ]6lh. This being the day appointed by Pomarrey for ceding in form the district of Matavai to the English, the captain landed upon Point Venus; was there received by the chief and conducted near (o the mis- eionary house. Most of the brethren from the ship, and all on shore, were present at this ceremony. Peter the Swede took, as usual, the office of in- terpreter. The scene, says Mr. Bowell, was laid before the door of the missionary house, at some distance from which a rope was stretched, to keep off the crowd. Pomarrey, Iddeah, Otoo, his wife and brothers, went also without the rope. Manne Manne, who alone acted the part of conveyancer, remained within with the captain and brethren. He then desired Peter to tell the captain all that he should say, and began by prefacing his oration with towa, towa, hear ! in order to attract gene- ral attention ; then went on enumerating all the eatooas of Otaheite, Eimco, and the Society Isles ; next the districts and their chiefs in regu- lar order ; and, lastly, the ships and their commanders, from Wallis, Bou- gainville, and Cook, down to the Duff and her captain, concluding with the formal surrender of tiie district of Matavai ; observing, that they might take wliat houses, trees, fruit, hogs, &c., they thought proper. This strange speech was delivered very deliberately by the old priest, who, while he spoke, sat in an odd posture, half bent upon his heels, holding with one hand the rope, and frequently scratciiing his head and rubbing his eyes with the other. These peculiarities were caught by his mimicking countrymen, who aftervv-ard turned them into humorous pan- tomime. 19th. It having been made known that they intended to address the natives this morning, numbers of them assembled early round their dwel- ling ; among them were Pomarrey and his sister : he had been inquiring a day or two before concerning their speaking to them, and said, " he had been dreaming about the book which should be sent him from the eatooa." At ten o'clock called the natives together under the cover of some shady trees near the house ; and along form being placed, Pomarrey was requested to seat himself on it with the brethren, the rest of the natives standing or sitting in a circle around. Mr. Cover then addressed them from the words of St. John, " God so loved the world, that he gave his only be- gotten Son, that they who believe in him should not perish, but have everlasting life ;" the Swede interpreting sentence by sentence as he spoke. The Otaheiteans were silent and solemnly attentive. After service Pomarrey took brother Cover by the hand, and pronounced the word of approbation, my ty, my ty. Being asked if he had understood what was said, he replied, " The(e were no such things before in Ota MISSIONARY VOYAOB. 361 heite ; and they were not to be learned at once, but that he would wait the coming of (the eatooa) God." Desiring to know if he might be per- mitted to attend agai^i, he was told, yes. Being conducted into the house, he and his wife dined with them and departed. As Peter the Swede had offered to go with them to the Friendly Is- lands, the captain consented, thinking that he might be serviceable on some occasions as interpreter. He proposed taking with hinr a young woman named Tanno Manno, with whom he had for some time lived as his wife, a man the mutineers had named Tom, and a boy called Harra- way. The last two Mr. Crook, who had already made great proficiency in the Otaheitean language, thought might be great helps to him. The natives understood they were now about to leave them for some months, but the captain's intention was to lie a few days at Eimeo, and, previous to setting off for the Marquesas, to touch again in Matavai Bay, when he might probably learn how the natives were likely to behave during their absence. About an hour before daylight v/eiglied, with a light air from the south- east. Kept running along the edge of the coral reefs toward Taloo har- bour. This harbour is on the north side of the island ; the bottom so clear that you distinctly see the coral, with its beautiful branches. Here they first saw a tupapow ; the flesh was quite gone ; the skin, like parchment stretched over the bones, remained : the natives seemed averse to their examining it. Two posts about six feet long are let into the ground at each end ; on these a broad plank is laid, and the corpse is there extended, wrapped in cloth, to dry, and a small shed, like a boat in- verted, placed over it to keep out the rain. The bad conduct of the captain's steward had been often noted, though the missionaries were reluctant to complain. This^ had at last exhausted the patience of the captain, who turned him out of the cabin before the mast. This evening, going on shore with others to bathe, he secreted himself, having contrived lo get some of his things on shore unknown to any but the Swede. 25th. At six, A. M., with a light breeze from south-south-east, weighed and stood out of Taloo harbour. Toward evening saw Tethuroa, low land, about twenty-four miles from Otaheite. 26ih. About four in the afternoon tacked the ship close in with One Tree Hill, hoisted the colours, and fired a gun ; upon hearing of which, Messrs. Cover, Lewis, Henry, Gillham, and others, came off in a double canoe, and reported that all was well. The wind being fresh to east, they filled their topsails, and left them far astern, the ship steering for the Friendly Islands. The day following their departure from Matavai they passed to the southward of the Society Islands, in sight of Huaheine, Ulietea, Otaha, and Bolabola ; then, with a fine fair wind and pleasant weather, shaped a course for Palmerston's Island, which they intended to visit, as it lay directly in their way. Accordingly, on the 1st of April, a little before day, saw it bearing west, distant about two leagues ; then running nearer, hoisted out the pinnace and jolly-boat, and attempted landing on the south- easternmost isle ; but finding it impracticable, on account of the surf breaking high on every part of the surrounding reef, they bore down to the next isle, which is the south-westernmost, and found it almost as bad to land upon as that they had left. On Wednesday, the 5th of April, saw Savage Island, but did not get near it before dark. In passing the north end perceived three lights, and on the west side seven more. They now shaped a course for Tongataboo. On Sunday, the 9th, at ten, A. M., •aw the land. Passing to the northward of Eoo-aije, steered west-sputh- 31 363 VOYAGES RODND THE WORLD. west, to the en'.rance, then west by south and west, up the harbour, fol- lowed by a canoe and several others which put off from the eastern part of the main island and the isles that lie scatteied upon the reef. Their followers were now all eager to come on board ; but though they were wilhng to grant them every prudent indulgence, yet they were too numerous to have free access. After dinner a chief, named Futtafaihe, was introduced to the captain as a person of great power in Tongataboo ; and indeed such he appeared ; he was about forty years of age, stout and well-proi)ortioned, of an open, free countenance, noble demeanour, and a gait stately, or rather jiompous, for by it alone they should have taken liim a for a very great man. After the captain had made him a t (resent of an axe, a looking-glass, and some other articles, he look his eave, and was hardly from llie ship when two Europeans made their ap- pearance ; they came alongside without hesitation, and slipping on board with alacrity, gave them the unspeakable pleasure of hearing their own language spoken by them. One, named Benjamin Ambler, says, that he was born in the parish of Shadwell, London, and that his parents now keep a public-house in Cannon-street. He is a bold, talkative, presuming fellow, seems to speak the language fluently, and says that he learned it with great facdity. John Connelly is a native of Cork, in Ireland, by trade a cooper, and is far less talkative than his comrade. An Irishman named Morgan remained at Annamooka ; they had been about thirteen months at Tongataboo. Ambler informed them that Futtafaihe was a great chief, and presided over all the eastern part of the island ; but that there was an old man named Tibo Moomooe, of great power, and generally esteemed as king over the island : at present, they said, he was in a bad state of health, for which reason he could not gratify his desire to come on board when the ship first came to anchor. About ten o'clock in the forenoon Ambler and Connelly came with a present of three hogs and some yams from Moo- mooe, informing them that himself intended to follow. Accordingly the venerable chief was very soon alongside, but was long before he durst venture up the ladder, fearing he had not strength sufficient for the task ; he at last, however, made the trial, but was so e.xhausted thereby that he was obliged to rest himself at the gangway, thence his attendants led him to the quarter deck ladder, where he again sat down, saying that ho would not go before the captain till he was shaved ; and to please him in this, Mr. Harris began the operation, and finished it, much to the satis- faction of this decent chief. They examined minutely the jointing of the chairs and of the mahogany table, and expressed no small degree of asto- nishment at finding themselves so far excelled ; for they cherish an idea of being superior to all their neighbours. When told that the men brought to live among them could teach them those arts, and also better things, they seemed quite transported. This favourable opportunity the captain improved, by mentioning every circumstance that could raise in their minds a high idea of the missionaries, interrogating Moomooe as to his willingness for them to reside there, and also what provision he would make for them ; to which he answered, that for the present they should have a house near his own, until one more suitable could be provided ; they should also have a piece of land for their use ; and he would take care that neither their property nor persons should be molested ; adding that, if they pleased, they might go on shore and examine the houae, when, if they did not like the situation, he would order it to be removed to any spot they preferred, for this he could have done in a few hours. MISSIONARY VOYAGE. 363 At nine o'clock Ambler came ofl' with Toogahowe, who had already agreed with the former to take all the brethren under his protection, also to give tliem a house, and the land attached to it, for their use. Tooga- howe, by Ambler's account, is the ino^t powerful chief in the island ; is the greatest warrior, and in consequence not only a terror to the chiefs of Tongataboo, but likewise to those of the adjacent islands. In the afternoon a canoe came for the missionaries' things, and was immediately loaded; Bowell, Buchanan, Gaulton, Harper, Shelly, Veeson, and Wil- kinson, accompanied by B. Ambler, embarked in it, and proceeded west- ward to a pl.ice called Aheefo. A petty chief, named Commabye, was ordered by Toogahowe to go with them and see -that nothing was lost. Kelso, Cooper, and Nobbs, remained on board to prepare the rest of the things. The cargo brought on shore was surrounded by a hundred per- sons, who alarmed brother Harper and another ; but Mytyle ordered the chests into a house near, and dismissed the people, threatening if any man, during the night, approached to steal, he should be put to death. So the brethren lay down on mats, in perfect security, till waked by Mytyle, at one o'clock in the morning, to partake of an entertainment, which he had provided, offish, hot yams, cocoa nuts, &cc. 14ih. A dis- agreeable night was succeeded by a morning altogether mild and pleasant ; and with a clear sky and gentle breeze westerly they got again under weigh for the Marquesas. On the 23d of May discovered land; at eight, A. M., the extremities of a low island bore from west 35 degrees south to west 32 degrees south, distant about five leagues. This being a new discovery, tacked a little before noon, on purpose to take a nearer vie'.v. This was named Cres- cent Island, on account of its form ; it is six or seven miles in circum- ference, and lies in latitude 23 degrees 22 minutes south, longitude 225 degrees 30 minutes east. They directed their course west-north-west toward an island with two high hills that lie contiguous to each other, and are so lofty as to be discovered when distant fourteen or fifteen leagues. These, for distinction's sake, were named Duff's Mountains. When within three leagues, saw a reef ahead, and the sea breaking very high upon it ; this obliged them to alter their course to north-north- west. After running thus about an hour, had a belter view, and it appear- ed that Duff's Mountains were part of an island about three leagues in length, with several of considerable height and extent to the south and south-east of it ; the whole forming a group five or si.x; leagues long, lying in a direction nearly north-east by north and south-west by south ; and a reef which lies off about three miles from the main island, and probably encircles the whole as a defensive barrier, extended as far each way as they could see. The group was named Gambler's Islands, in compliment to the worthy admiral of that name, who, in his department, countenanced their equipment. Duff's Mountains, which he in the centre, are in lati- tude 23 degrees 12 minutes south, and in longitude 225 degrees east. The 26th, at half-past five in the morning, just as the day broke, thought they saw low land ahead, when the day presented to view the imminent danger they had escaped. This island, lying in latitude 21 degrees 36 minutes south by observation, and in longitude 224 degrees 36 minutes east by chronometer, is probably the same called Lord Hood's Island by Captain Edwards, who discovered it, in the Pandora, 17ih of Maich, 1791. On the 28th, at noon, observed, in latitude 18 degrees 34 minutes south, and about three in the afternoon discovered another low island bearing north-east. This received the name of Searl's Island, in compliment to 364 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. a gentleman of that name now in the Transport-office, and author of Horae SoUlariaj and other valuable works. From this time nothing material occurred until they made the Marquesas. _ On the 5th of June, when within four miles of Resolution Bay, saw two men paddlincr toward them in a small wretched canoe^ which they kept above water by constant bailing. Though it was now dark, two females swam off, in hopes, no doubt, of a favourable reception : but finding they could not be admitted, they kept swimming about the ship fornearhalf an hour, calhng out, in a pitiful tone, " Waheine ! waheine !" that is, Wo- man ! or. We are women ! They then returned to the shore in the same manner as they came. The 6lh, their first visiters from the shore came early ; they were seven beautiful young women, swimming quite naked, except a few green leaves lied round their middle : they kept playing round the ship for three hours, calling Waheine ! until several of the native men had got on board ; one of whom, being the chief of the island, requested that his sister might be taken on board, which was complied with : she was of a fair complexion, inclining to a healthy yellow, with a tint of red in her cheek, was rather stout, but possessing such symmetry of features, as did all her companions, that, as models for the statuary and painter, their equal can seldom be found. Their Otaheitean girl, who was tolerably fair and had a comely person, was notwithstanding greatly eclipsed by these women. The chief above noticed is named Tenae, eldest son of Honoo, the reigning prince in Captain Cook's time ; he came in a tolerably good canoe, and introduced himself by presenting the captain with a smooth staff about eight feet long, to the head of which a few locks of human hair were neatly plaited ; and, besides this, he gave a few head and breast ornaments. Observing a musket on the quarter-deck, he took it with care to the captain, and begged him " to put it to sleep." He received an axe, a looking-glass, and neck-chain to hang it, also a pair of 6cissors ; the latter, an article much prized at the Friendly and Society Isles, he was either indifferent about, or totally ignorant of their use. Their intention of settling two men among them being made known to the chief, he seemed higtily delighted with the proposal, and said that he would give them a house and a share in all that himself had. After this he went on shore ; Mr. Wilson followed, with Mr. Harris, Mr. Crook, Peter, and Otaheitean Tom. Tenae received them upon the beach, and conducted them to one of his best houses, intimating that it was for the use of the brethren, and that they might occupy it as soon as they pleased. To convey an idea of what this and all their best-built houses are like, it is only necessary to imagine one of our own of one story high, with a high peaked roof; cut it lengthwise exactly down the middle, you would then have two of their houses, only built of different materials. The 8th, Tenae was now more familiar than at his first visit, and sur- veyed the cabin with a degree of attention, but not with the penetration and discernment of the Friendly islanders. Happening to touch the wire of the cabin-bell, he was struck with astonishment and savage wonder ; he rang the bell again and again, and puzzled himself a quarter of an hour to find whence the sound proceeded. Sunday, the natives crowded off as usual ; but, on being told that the ship was taboo for that day, they all swam back to the shore. On the 20th Mr. Harris and Crook came on board, and held a meeting with the captain respecting their stay. Mr. Harris complai.ied of the poverty of the place ; said that he could not eat the nriahie, >5cc. Crook declared his determination to stay, even though Harris should leave him. On the 84th the fishermen, whom they haulei MISSIONARY VOYAGg. 365 ia at the quarter- gallery at first coming, swam off at break of day, and in- formed them that Mr. Harris had been on the beach all the night with his chest, and had been robbed of most of his thino-s. Tenae, it seems, wanted to treat them with an excursion to another valley, to which Crook readily agreed, but Mr. Harris would not consent. The chief seeing this, and desirous of obliging him, not considering any favo\ir too great, left him his wife, to be treated as if she were his own, till the chief came back again. Mr. Harris told him that he did not want the woman ; however, she looked up to hin^ as her husband, and finding iierself treated with total neglect, became doubtful of his sex, and acquainted some of the other females with her suspicion. Discovering so many strangers, he was great- ly terrified ; and, perceiving what they had been doing, was determined to leave a place where the people were so abandoned and given up to wickedness, a cause which should have e.Kcited a contrary resolution. Crook is a young man of twenty-two, remarkably serious and steady, always employed in tlie improvement of his mind, and applied with great diligence to the attainment of the language. He also ])osses.ses a very good genius, and no doubt will contrive many things to benefit the poor creatures he lives with ; and as the valley is capable of great improvement, they should not be surprised to hear of this and the islands adjacent be- coming very plentiful places by his means. He has various kinds of garden seeds, implements, medicines, &c., an Encyclopedia, and other useful books. The 27ih, at four in the morning, thev weighed and stood out of the bay with a light air easterly. Their religious cereinonies resemble those of the Society Islands. They have a moral in each district, where the dead are buried beneath a pavement of large stones, but with such excep- tions as in the case of the Chief Honoo. They have a multitude of deities. Those most frequently mentioned are Opooamanne, Okeeo, Oenamoe, Opee-peetye, Onooko, Oetanow, Fatee-aitapoo, and Onoetye ; but none who seem superior to the rest, though the extent of information is small on this head. They only ofTer hogs in sacrifices, and never men. The Chief Tenae presides over four districts, Ohitahoo, Taheway, and Innamei, all opening into Resolution Bay, and Onopoho, the adjoining valley to the southward. He has four brothers ; Aeowtaytay, Natooafeedoo, Ohee- phee, andMoeneenee ; but none of them seem invested with any authority ; and Tenae himself with less than the Otaheitean chiefs. There is no regular government, established law, nor punishments ; but custom is the general rule. July 3d, fell in with Tiookea, a lagoon island, many of which lie scat- tered about this part of the ocean, and render the navigation in dark weather dangerous. On the 6th, at seven in the morning, they saw the high land of Otaheite ; and at noon, being close in, ran between the Dolphin Bank and Point Venus Reef, and came to anchor in Matavai Bay. The natives crowded off, all exceedingly glad to see them ; the brethren followed in a flat-bottomed boat, which they had been desired to build for the purpose of passing the shallow entrance of the river with the goods. The report they gave was pleasing to all. They had in general enjoyed good health. The natives had constantly observed tljo same respectful behaviour toward them as at first, and had never failed a day to supply them abundantly with all kinds of provisions. One of the arreoies, the tayo of brother Henry, came to the missionaries with his wife big with child : thej were taking their leave, in order, during their ■abjencC) to destroy the infant which shorid be born, according to vh§ 366 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. ordinance of that diabolical society. They thought this a proper oppor- tunity to remonstrate with them against this horrid custom. The mother felt with tenderness, and appeared willing to spare the infant ; but the brutal chief continued obstinately bent on his purpose, though he ac- knowledged it a bloody act, pleading the established custom, his loss of all privileges, and the dissolution of the society, if this should become general. °They offered to build them a house for the pregnant women, and take every child which should be born into their immediate care. They threatened him, that such an unnatural act would exclude him from their friendship for ever, and more, that the eatooa (their God) would certainly punish him. He said, if he saw the arreoies destroyed by the eatooa for it, he would desist ; and asked if their forefathers were suffer- ing for these practices. Pomarrey and Iddeah came at noon, and going into the married bre- thren's apartment, found the.'i conversmg with the arreoies on the evil of destroyinir infants. Iddeah was particularly addressed on the subject, as she too wa.s pregnant by a toutou, who cohabited with her, and was also of the arreoie society. Pomarrey and Iddeah had for some time ceased to cohabit ; he had taken another wife, and she one of her servants ; but they lived in the same state of friendship, and with no loss of dignity. The brethren endeavoured to convince her of the dreadfulness of murder, in a mother especially. They promised to receive the child immediately, and it should be no trouble to her ; but she was sullen and made no reply. They then addressed Pomarrey, and entreated his interference in suppress- ing such acts of inhumanity, and to give orders that no more human sacrifices should be offered. He replied he would ; said that Captain Cook told him it should not be done ; but did not stay long enough to instruct them. A fact was reported to them, which, if true, was shocking. In one of Captain Cook's visits he left a great monkey, who was made a chief at Alahourou ; he had a wife and thirty servants, and abundance of every- thing ; they called him Tiata oore harrai, the great man-dog. One day the woman seeing him catch flies and eat them, which they abominate, she ran away into the mountains ; the monkey and his toutous pursued, but being met by Temarre, who was jealous of his authority, he knocked him down with a club and killed him. One of the brethren this evening sitting in his birth writing, a young girl came in, and expressed her sur- prise that they behaved so different to them from what all their country- men had done. He told her that such practices were wicked, and if they did such things God would be angry. " Oh," said she, " but I will come to you in the night, and then none can see us." They had desired Peter, that if a mawhoo came in their way, he should point him out ; and here there happened to be one in Pomarrey's train. He was dressed like a woman, and mimicked the voice and every pecu- liarity of the sex. They asked Pomarrey what he was, who answered " Taata, mawhoo," th it is, a man, a mawhoo. As they fi.'ced their eyes upon the fellow, he hid his face : this they at first construed into shame, but found it afterward to be a womanish trick. These mawhoos choose this vile way of life when young ; putting on the dress of a woman, they follow the same employments, are under the same prohibitions with respect to food, &c., and seek the courtship of men the same as women do ; nay, are more jealous of the men vvho cohabit with them, and always refuse to sleep with women. The great moral of Oberea stands on a point to the eastward ; thither they went, to have a view of so great a curiosity. Otoo has one o( hii MISSIONARY VOYAGE. 367 representative houses here ; and in passing it some of his servants, judg- ing whither they were going, followed, and were very assiduous in ex- plaining everything. This morai is an enormous pile of stone-work, in form of a pyramid, on a parallelogram area ; it has a flight of ten steps quite round it, the first of which, from the ground, is six feet high, the rest about five feet ; it is in length, at the base, two hundred and seventy feet ; width, at ditto, ninety-four feet; at the top it is one hundred and eighty feet long, and about six wide ; the steps are composed partly of regular rows of squared coral stones, about eighteen inches high, and partly with bluish coloured pebble stones, nearly quite round, of a hard texture, all about six inches diameter, and in their natural unhewn state : this is the outside. The inside, that is to say, what composes the solid mass, (for it has no hol- low space,) is composed of stones of various kinds and shapes. It is a wonderful struture ; and it must have cost them immense time and pains to bring such a quantity of stones together, and particularly to square the coral of the steps with the tools they had when it was raised ; for it was before iron came atnong them ; and as they were ignorant of mortar or cement, it required all the care they have taken to fit the stones regularly to each other, that it might stand. When Sir Joseph Banks saw this place, there was, on the centre of the summit, a representation of a bird, carved in wood ; and close by it the figure of a fish, carved in stone ; but both are now gone, and the stones of the upper steps are in many places fallen ; the walls of the court have also gone much to ruin, and the flat pavement IS only in some places discernible. The above gentleman, speaking of this court, says, " The pyramid constitutes one side of a court or square, the sides of which were nearly equal ; and the whole was walled in and paved with flat stones : notwithstanding which pavement, several plantain* and trees, which the natives call etoa, grew within the enclosure." At present there is within this square a house, called the house of the eatooa, in which a man constantly resides. Sir Joseph farther says, " that at a small distance to the westward of this edifice was another paved square, that contained several smsll stages, called ewaltas by the natives, which appeared to be altars whereon they placed the ofl'erings to their gods ;" and that he afterward saw whole hogs placed upon these stages or altars. The guide led to this spot, which appears also to have gone much to ruin ; he showed the altar, which is a heap of stones, and how they lay their offer- ing upon it ; he then went a few yards back, and laying hold of an upright stone like a gravestone, he knelt with one knee, and looking upward, began to call on the eatooa, by crying. " Whooo, whooo ;" and by afterward making a whistling noise, intimated it to be the way in which the eatooa answered them. Before dinner they set off with the chief to see a morai, where it was said the ark of the eatooa was deposited, and which had been conjectured by some visiters to bear a similitude in form to the ark of the covenant. Though it was about noon, m the road they felt little of the heat of the 6un : lofty bread fruit trees atforded them a pleasant shade ; and, as there was but little underwood, tliey felt no annoyance, except from a few flies. Turmeric and ginger abounded, as also the wild cotton tree. The morai stands on the north side of the valley, about a mile or more from the beach ; it is erected on level ground, enclosed with a square wooden fence, each side of which may measure thirty or forty yards. About one- half of the platform, next the mierior side of the square, is pavod ; and on this pavement, nearly in the middle, there stands an altar upon sixteen wooden pillars, each eight feet high ; it is forty feet long and seven feet 368 VOYAGES ROUND THE 'V^ORLD. wide • on the top of the pillars the platform for the offerings is laid with thick malting upon it, which, overhanging each side, forms a deep fringe all around it. Upon this mattmg are offerings of whole hogs, turtle, largo fish, plantains, young cocoa nuis, &c., the whole in a state of putrefac- tion which sends an offensive smell all round the place. A large space on one side of the fence was broken down, and a heap of rough stones laid in the gap : upon these stones, and in a line with the fence, were placed what they call tees ; these were boards from six to seven feet high, cut into various shapes. At a corner near this stood a house and two sheds, where men constantly attended. They entered the house, and found at one end the Utile house or ark of the eatooa ; it was made exactly like those they set on their canoes, but smaller, being about four feet long, and three in height and breadth. As it contained nothing but a few pieces of cloth, they inquired where they had hid the eatooa : they answer- ed, that it had been taken in the morning to a small moral near the water- side, but that they would immediately bring it, which they did in about half'an hour. Though the English had not viewed this place without feel- ing for the poor creatures, yet, when they laid their eatooa on the ground, they could hardly restrain a laugh. It was in shape exactly like a sailor's hammock lashed up, and composed of two parts, the larger one just the size of the house, and the lesser, which was lashed upon it, was about half that size ; at the ends were fastened little bunches of red and yellow feathers, the offerings of the wealthy. On their way back they called to see the body of Orepiah, as preserved in a tupapow : he had not been many months dead, and was now in a perfectly dry state. The man to whom the performance of this opera- tion was entrusted lived close by, and came near when he saw them. He seemed quite willing to oblige, and asked if they would like to see the body unshrouded ; for, as it lay, nothing could be seen but the feet. Answering in the affirmative, he drew it out upon the uncovered stage, and took several wrappers of cloth off it ; and, laughing all the while, placed the corpse in a sitting posture. The body had been opened, but the skin everywhere else was unbroken, and, adhering close to the bones, it appeared like a skeleton covered with oil-cloth. It had little or no smell, and would, notwithstanding the heat of the climate, remain so nreserved for a considerable time. The method they take for this is, to clear the body of the entrails, brain, &c. ; then washing it well ; they rub it daily outside and in with cocoa nut oil, till the flesh is quite dried up ; after which they leave it to the all-destroying hand of Time. This tupapow was constructed by driving four long stakes in the ground, about six feet asunder, lengthwise, and four in breadth : besides these, two others, not so long by three feet, are driven on a line, and six feet from the former four ; a stage is then made at the height of the shortest two, and the corpse being laid at one end, a thatched roof is raised upon the four highest stakes, to shelter it from the rain ; the vacant part of the stage is to pull it upon, either for rubbing with the oil, or exhibiting it to the friends and relations of the deceased. On the adjoining trees plan- tains and bread fruit hung for the use of the dead. They asked them where they thought his spirit, or thinking part, had gone ] At this they smiled, and said, " Harre po," that is, " Gone to the night." They were now extremely anxious to ascertain the population of ihe island, which, from a variety of circumstances, appeared to them infi- nitely lesa populous than as represented by Captain Cook and others. fox this purpose two or three of them s^t off, accompanied by Peter, the MISSIONARY VOYAGE. 36^ Swede, as interpreter. Stopping at the house of Inona Madui, widow of Orepiah, they communicaied their purpose to her head servant, Aheine Eno, apparently an intelligent fellow, who instantly suggested a mode of counting, which they afterward adopted. He said that in Whyripoo there were four matteynas, and to each matteyna there were ten tees. A matteyna, he- said, was a principal house, distinguished either by a de- gree of rank in its ancient or present owner, or by a portion of land being attached to it ; and sometimes on account of its central situation to a few other houses. It sets up a tee or image at the morai, which enti- tles it to the liberty of worshipping there, and the other houses claim a part in the same privilege, and are thence called tees ; from what they saw, allowing si.x persons to each matteyna and tee, the population is as follows : Districts. 1 Whyripoo . . . - 2 Whapiawno - - - - 3 Wharoomy . - - . 4 Hewow . . - - . 5 Hahbahboonea - - - 6 Honoowhyah - - - 7 Nahnu Nahnoo - - 8 Ot-yayree . - . . 9 Wlia-ah-heinah - - 10 Hedeah 11 Part of Terra wow on this side of the isthmus uninhabited. 12 Wy-eree - - - - - 13 Wyooreede - . - - 14 Attemonoo - - - - 15 Pappara - - - - - 16 Ahaheinah - - - - 17 Atahourou - - - - 18 Tettaha 19 Oparree 20 Matavai Presiding Chiefs. Inna Madua - - - Wytouah - - - - Wyreede Aowh Manne Manne - - Otoo Ditto Pomarrey . . . Noe Noe . . . - Roorah and 3 more Inna Madua - - Maahe-hanoo (female) Tayreede (wife of Temarre) Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Pomarrey ..... Ditto Missionaries .... Mat. Tees. 4 6 28 238 1 9 2 11 1 8 3 28 3 18 2 22 4 53 42 167 32 42 13 161 2 24 17 157 8 105 25 243 12 130 16 199 27 110 No. of Souls. 264 1596 60 73 54 186 126 144 342 1254 444 1044 156 1044 678 1608 852 1290 22 Total of men, women, and children, in Otaheite 11,242 Ditto in Tiarrabou 4,008 Total on the whole island 15,250 In the dusk of the evening of the 27th, one of the seamen, William Tucker, made his escape from the ship. About ten at night a native paddled off, calling out, as he approached the ship, " All's well." His business, it seemed, was to communicate something concerning Tucker ; but he was so stupified with ava, that he could not articulate a word. The coming of another canoe explamed the matter. In this last were three of the missionaries, Iddeah, two of Otoo's servants, and Tucker bound, who cursed Otoo heartily for his treachery. It appears that Otoo had been privy to the whole affair, and had himself daily fed Tucker. August 4th. Light airs of wind. At eight, A. M., weighed anchor, and stood out of Matavai Bay. When to leeward of Huaheine, canoei catne alon 5^ feet. T) a o> 5i feet. eo d OJ d CO large stones foimed the sides, and at each corner two high stones wore placed upright at right angles to each other, and in a line with their re- spective sides ; others were such as the brethren describe that of Moo- mooe to be, and a third sort were built square like the first ; the largest of which was at the base 156 feet by 140 ; it had four steps from the bottom to the top, that run quite round the Top. pile ; one stone composed the height of each step, a part of it being sunk in the ground ; and some of these stones in the wall of the lower are immensely large ; one, which they measured, was twenty-four feet by twelve, and two feet thick ; these Futtafaihe inform- ed them were brought in double canoes from the Island of Lefooga. They are coral stone, and are hewn into a tolerably good shape, both with respect to the straightness of their sides and the flatness of their surfaces. They are now so hardened by the weather, _ , , . <« that the great difficulty they had in breakmg _i ^1^ a specimen of one corner made it not easy ^ Profile of the steps. to conjecture how the labour of hewing them g tt first had been effected ; as, by the marks ~J of antiquity which some of them bear, they ' must have been built long before Tasman showed the natives an iron tool. On the 7th of September weighed, and sailing from Tongataboo by the northern passage, passed close by the small islands of Honga Harpy and Honga Tonga. They had brisk gales and a hollow sea all the night ; ex- tensive reefs surrounded them. In viewing their situation from aloft it appeared very critical, and occasioned the island already to be called Danger Island. At daybreak, on the 13th, bore away, and ran along ths north side of Sir Charles Middleton's Islands. At nine o'clock at night, no danger appearing, they thought themselves safe ; but were presently alarmed by the ship striking upon a coral reef, upon which the sea hardly broke, to give the least warning. All hands were upon deck in an instant, and, as she stuck fast, became under great apprehensions o. ieing ship- wrecked ; a misfortune which presented itself with a thousand frightful ideas. Judging it to be a weather reef, the moment she struck the sails were hove aback, and in about five or six minutes they beheld with joy that she came astern, and shortly after was quite afloat; when they wera Bgain delivered from their fears, and found the ship, which had kept up- right the whole time, seemed to have received no injury. 16th. Observed at noon, in latitude 13 degrees 13 minutes south, and at five, P. M. , saw the Island of Rotumah, bearing north-west by west. At eight, A. M., on the 25th, saw land from the mast-head bearing north-west by north, and immediately steered for it. About five o'clock in the eve- ning, as they drew near to the land, found that it consisted of ten or eleven separate islands, two or three of which were of considerable size, and saw a canoe coming toward them, in which were two men ; they approached within hail, but would come no nearer. The largest of this group they named Disappointment Island, and the vrhole cluster Duff's Group. On the following day again saw land in the south-west quarter, and steered for it, which proved to be Swallow Island and Volcano Island ; and farther to the south-west they could discern Egmont Island ; all these were discovered by Captain Carteret, On the Mlifel6NARY VOYAGli. 373 85th of October came in sight of a low island beai'ing west by noilh, and presently perceived some canoes coining toward them. Just at this time William Tucker and John Connelly were discovered swimming close under the stern, with a view to make their escape to the canoes, and by their skulking appeared afraid of being fired at ; but the captain, enraged at the former for his ingratitude and deceit, and willing to part with the latter, told them, that if they chose to go they might, for he would not fire at them. Connelly answered, " Thank you, sir ;" and they both swam to the canoes, and were received by the savages with great shoutings. Soon after, a breeze springing up from the northeast, they resumed their course and left them behind. Connelly was brought by force from Tongataboo for threatening the missionaries. They did not imagine a third person could be found willing to follow their example ; but sucli is the prevalence of habit and the enervating influence of idleness over the niind, that Andrew Cornelius Lind came to the captain, and begged earnestly to be set on shore upon the next island they should discover. To this request not only consent was given, but likewise a promise to let hinr have a se- 'ection of useful articles wherewith to benefit the natives, and the better to introduce and give him importance among them. 2Gth. At midnight they saw another island, and as the day broke shortly after, counted sIk of these low islands ; and soon had a great number of canoes about the ship, into one of which Andrew, after taking leave of his shipmates, went, and was received with joy by the savages. 27th. About ten, A. M., came in sight of another low island. About four, A. M., next day, discovered other islands. About this time it fell Calm, which continued; and at daybreak counted six, which might, from their size, merit the name of islands, and seven isles or keys ; to the whole of which they gave the name of the Thirteen Islands. To visit the Pelew Islands being their next object, they accordingly shaped a course thither, but had rather a tedious passage of nine days, owing to light and variable winds. On the 6th, when it became more settled, got sight of the land, bearing west-south-west, distant ten or eleven leagues. When they hove-to they were opposite to the southern part of the dis- trict of Artingall. Two hundred persons or more were collected upon the beach, and presently about a dozen canoes were seen upon the water, some of which were under sail, and others paddling ; but as the weather at this time wore a most gloomy aspect, three of them only came far enough off to get alongside. This was all the intercourse they had with the Pelew islanders, a circumstance much regretted by them, as it had all along been the captain's intention to stay here a few days, for the purpose of learning what they could of the inhabitants respecting the expediency of settling a mission among them, and to prepare the way for missiona- ries, by distributing some useful articles retained in the ship. November 21st. At ten o'clock, A. M , passed between the Grand Lemma and Potoy, and leaving all the islands, except Lingting, to the. south, sailed through with a fine easterly breeze. At three, P. M., cama in sight of Macao, and at half-past four anchored in the road, the town bearing west two leagues. January 2d. Three English men-of-war and seven of the Bombay cotton ships were at anchor, waiting for the Duff to sail with them. Everything relative to the fleet's departure being arranged, and the ships in readi- ness, early on the 5th they put to sea. On the 10th passed Pulo Sapata, and continuing their course, at two, A. M., on the 16th, came-to with the •mall bower in Malacca road. On the 20th sailed with the fleet, Th« 39 374 VOVAGBS ROUND THE WORLl). 16th of March, in the morning, nnade the Cape Land, and fell in with two transports from Amboyna. At night hovc-to, and waited for day to run for Table Bay. In a few days they had got what water and stock were wanted, but it was not until the 1st of April that the signal for sail- ing was made, and they put to sea, with the addition of the transport Bellona to their fleet. On the 23d of June saw the coast of Ireland, west of Kinsale. On the 8th of July passed the Downs; on the llth came to anchor in the River Thames, and in a few days discharged their cargo of tea, which was landed in as perfect order as they received it in Chma. CAPTAIN D'ENTRECASTEAUX.— 1791-93. On September 28th, 1791, in the two sloops, La Recherche and L'Es- perance, of sixteen guns and 110 men each, they weighed from the har- bour of Brest, completely equipped for a voyage of circumnavigating the globe. The government had previously sent on board a number of gen- tlemen, versed in astronomy, natural history, botany, painting, &c , and had provided an apparatus of astronomical instruments, marine time- pieces ; in fine, every article that appeared likely to render the expedi- tion subservient to the purposes of science. The conduct of the expedi- tion was assigned to Captain D'Entrecasteaux. The leading object of the voyage was to endeavour to procure intelligence relative to Captain La Perouse, vvho had long been missing in the South Seas, and to make a complete tour of New Holland, an island by far the largest in the world, comprehending an immense circuit of at least 5000 (French) leagues. The accomplishment of this last point was essential to th» history of geography, and what had not been effected by either Cook or La Perouse. The first port they made was Santa Cruz, in Teneriffe ; they arrived thereon the I7th of October, and, having taken in wines and provisions, proceeded on their route to the Cape of Good Hope ; and while they con- tinued there, the e.xpedition sustained a considerable misfortune in the death of the astronomer Bertrand. February l6ih, 1792, they left th« Cape, and bore away for the Island of New Guinea, some parts of which they explored ; they reached the Islands Arsacides on July the 9th, and New Ireland the 17th. They afterward made for Amboyna, one of the Molucca IsLmds, and arrived September 6ih. October llth. They left Amboyna, and sailed immediately for the west part of New Holland, along which they intended to coast, as being the least known, and then to proceed along the southern shore ; they were always driven back, however, by east and south-east winds, and this part of the enterprise was consequently frustrated. December 3d, 1792, they arrived at the cape which is at the south- west extremity of New Holland, and sailed along the southern shore till January 3d, having by this means traced and ascertained about two-thirds of the whole extent of the southern coast. In consequence of the want of water and the, prevalence of high south-easterly winds, they bore away for the Cape de Diernes, the south-east extremity of this extensive island. In this part of the southern coiist they observed a number of bold and noble harbours. After a delay here of three weeks, they shaped a coursfl for New Zealand, and afterward for the Friendly Islands. On the llth of March they passed very near the North Cape of New Zealand, and making for the shore, several canoes came alongside, d'entrecasteaux. 375 They procured a number of ornaments from the savages, and parting from them reluctantly, continued their route. On the i6th they discovered two small islands at a little distance from each other. The most eastern one lies in 30 degrees 17 minutes south latitude, and in 179 degrees 41 minutes east longitude. On the 17th discovered an island about five leagues in circumference, conspicuous by its elevated situation. It lies in 29 degrees 3 minutes south latitude, and in 179 degrees 54 minutes east longitude. On the 2d of March they saw Eboua, the most south-westerly of the Friendly Islands. The next day anchored at Tongataboo, the largest of the Frendly Islands. A multitude of canoes crowded about them, and the beach was soon covered with the natives, who welcomed their arrival by every possible expression of joy. This satisfaction was sometimes interrupted by the imprudence of some of their people, and sometimes by the excessive curiosity of the islanders, to see and possess everything that was European. After a tedious voy- age, which had often forced them to put into uninhabited places, how grateful was the satisfaction they experienced to find themselves so hos- pitably entertained by a people among whom civilization is already con- siderably advanced. Among these islanders they frequently meet with men six feet high, their limbs shaped in the most comely proportion. The fertility of the soil, which exempted them from the necessity of extreme labour, may conduce not a little to the unusual perfection of their forms. Their features have a strong resemblancs to those of Europeans. A burning sky has impressed a slight discolour on their skins. Those among the women who are but little exposed to the rays of the sun, are sufficiently fair. Some of them are distinguished by a beautiful carnation, which gives a vivacity to their whole figure, A thousand nameless graces are visible in their gestures, when engaged in the slightest employments. In the dance their movements are enchanting. The language of this people bears an analogy with the gentleness of their manners ; it is well adapted to music, for which they have a pecu- liar taste. Their concerts, wherein every one performs his part, demon- strate the just ideas which they entertain of harmony. The women, as well as the men, have their shoulders and breasts naked. A cotton cloth, or rather a piece of stuff manufactured with the bark of mulberry tree into paper, serves them for apparel. It forms a beautiful drapery, reach- ing from a little above the waist down to the feet. The art of pottery has made some progress among them. They saw several vases of potter's earth, tolerably well baked, in v.hich they preserved their water ; these vases are manufactured in an island named Seidgy, lying, according to the best accounts they could gather, about one hundred leagues north of the place where they were to anchor. These islands produce a species of nutmegs, which differ very little in form from those of the Moluccas. They are, however, aromatic, and almost twice as large. They collected in the island a number of objects which may prove useful for the study of natural history. They also procured the bread fruit tree, for the purpose of transporting it into the West India Islands ; they were obliged to leave it, however, al Sourabaya, in the Island of Java At their departure from thence they took a receipt from ha Haye, the Dutch gardener there, for eleven young plants of this invaluable tree, and as many roots and s-tocks, all in prime condition, which they had brought away from the Friendly Islands, after having had them nearly eleven months in their possession. The roots and plants together amount to twenty-two, all in high preservation ; and a» the tree grows very rapidly, this quantity will 376 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLE Buffica to replenish the islands with them in six or eight years time. Th^y flrere at Jarnarang, in the Island of Java, on the 20th of March, 1795. They must not co°ifound these excellent species of bread fruit tree with the wild species ot it found in the Moluccas, and observed for a long time past in the Isle of France. In this second sort the grams do not mis- carry, while in the good fruit tree they are replaced by a food truly deli- cious, when baked under ashes or in the oven. In other respects it is a most wholesome viand, affording a pleasant repast during the whole time of their continuance on this island, and for which they willingly relin- quished the ship's stock of baker's bread. The Molucca sort produces thirty or forty small fruits ; while every tree of the Friendly Islands Droduces three or four hundred extremely large, of an oval form, the greatest diameter being from nine to ten inches, and the smallest from seven to eicrht. A tree would be oppressed with such an enormous load if the fruit were to ripen all at once ; but sagacious nature has so ordered it, that the fruit succeed each other, during eight months of the year, thus providing the nations with a food equally salubrious and plentiful. Every tree occupies a circular space of about thirty feet diameter. A single acre occupied by this vegetable would supply the wants of a number of families. Nothing in nature exhibits a similar fecundity. As it produces no seeds, it has a wonderful faculty of throwing out suckers ; and its roots frequently force their way up to the surface of the earth, and there give birth to fresh plants. It thrives exceedingly in a tropical climate, in a soil somewhat elevated above the level of the sea ; and suits very well with a marly soil in which a nii.x.ture of argillaceous clay prepon- derates. They quitted the Friendly Islands on the 10th of April, 1793. The next day observed a small island named Tortoise April 15, saw Errouan, the most eastern of the islands of the archipelago of the Holy Ghost, and afterward that of Anatom. The eruptions of the volcano of Tana pre- sented in the night a spectacle truly sublime. April 27th, steering for New Caladonia, in a night darker than usual, they ran among some islands surrounded with breakers, not noticed till then by navigators ; they were only apprized of danger by an uncommon circumstance, the flight of a flock of sea-fowl over their heads about three o'clock in the morning. This indication of the proximity of land induced the officer upon watch to slacken sail, and lie-to, at a critical juncture, when an hour's more sailing must have dashed ihein to pieces against the rocks. These new-discovered islands lie about thirty leagues north-east of New Caledonia, where they anchored April 2Gth. After the description that Cook and Forster have given of the inhabi- tants of New Zealand, they expected to find realized the advantageous portrait given of them by those celebrated voyagers. They had reason, however, partly to suspend their belief of those accounts, when they af- terward observed a number of human bones broiled, which the savages were devouring, eagerly fastening on the smallest tendonous parts which adhere to them. This fact at least suffices to prove that the New Zea- landers are cannibals. They often attacked their boat ; but the good countenance exhibited prevented their assailing or massacring any of their company. Notwithstanding these hostilities, the ship was every day visited by numeious bodies of the isianilers. The soil being every- ^?vhere barren, they perceived but few vestiges of any taste for agriculture ; still, however, they observed in some gardens the Colocasia, the Caribbe cabbage, the banana tree, and the sugar-cane. The cocoa tree bears D ENTRECASTEAUX. 377 but very diminutive fruit, the water of which is far from being pleasant. The barbarous customs of the natives did not prevent their reiterated .excursions into the interior parts of the country. On these occasions they kept together to the number of twenty, always v^'ell armed. As evening came on, they commonly took iheir station on some elevated post in the mountains, where they passed the night in a situation v^-hich protected them from hostile assualis. To guard against surprise, they kept watch by turns. Observations made for twenty days together in this extensive region, of which Forster had but a glimpse, (being sick all the eight days of his being off the island,) furnished them with a variety of novel materials, es- pecially in the vegetable kingdom. On the sixth of May they lost Citizen Huon, captain of the Esperance. He had been for some time before afflicted with an incurable marasmus. They buried him in Obser- vation Island. May 9th, they weighed anchor, and sailed before the wind for the north. In their course observed the eastern part of the reefs and islands, the western side of which they saw the year before. May 21st, were close on the Island of St. Croix, and sent in two boats to look out for an anchoring place. While the sailors were employed in sounding, one of the natives, at a distance of upward of eighty paces, lanced an arrow, which slightly wounded the forehead of one of them. A volley of fire-arms, howerer, soon dispersed the group of canoes which had surrounded the boata, and from which the lance proceeded. Although the wound was apparently inconsiderable, it was attended with a te- tanus, which proved mortal to the unfortunate sailor after only eight days. The arrow did not appear to have been poisoned, as it is well known that beasts pierced with the same weapons do not experience any fatal symptoms. In India it is no uncommon thing to see the slightest puncture followed by a spasm, which is a certain forerimner of death. After this they proceeded to visit the Arsacides Islands and that part of Louisiade which Bougainville did not explore, the northern part of which is very difficult of access. They anchored after this near some very lofty mountains on the south-east coast of New Guinea. After having passed through Dampier's Straits, they discovered the northern side of New Britain.* July I6th and 17th, they sailed in view of the Anchoret Islands of Bougainville. On the 20lh they lost D'Entrecasteaux, the captain. He died of convulsions, every fit of which was succeeded by a speech- less stupor. After having taken some notice of Traitor's Islands and part of the elevated lands of New Guinea, they anchored at Waigiore. Augest 16th, 1793, in 129 degrees 14 minutes of east longitude, and 60 near the equator that they were only half a minute to the south. Here the inhabitants brought very large sea-turtles, the soup of which they experienced to be a salutary remedy for the scurvy, which was now prevalent among them. In this island they procured a number of inte- resting objects, and quitted it August the 29th, and sailed for Bouwo, where they anchored September the 3d, 1793. In this mountainous isle, where the productions of nature are extremely varied, they had a favour- * The whole extent of this navigation is extremely dangerous : for a length of twelve hundred leagues (French) a line of rocks or breakers, nearly level with the water, runs along the bottom of the sea. In this route it is proba- ble that the unfortunate La Perouse perished, unless, as was supposed at the ti»«, his vessel foundered in the dreadful tempest of December 31, 17S8. 33* 378 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. able opportunity of continuing their botanical researches, &c. They passed through Button's Straits, from September 23d to October 9th, frequently cominc' to anchor and going ashore for the sake of enlarging their collections." Here several of the men died of a contagious bilious dysentery, contracted in the low marshy grounds of this country. October 28th, 1793, cast anchor in the road of Sourabaya, in the Isle of Java. Here divisions broke out among the crews, in consequence of gaining intelligence of the farther progress of the French revolution. D'AurTbeau hoisted the white flag February 19th, 1794, and surrendered the two vessels to the Dutch. He also seized all the journals, charts, and memoirs, which were connected with the voyage, and arrested all those of the ships' companies that were obnoxious to his own political sentiments. One journal, however, was fortunately saved, by having been stowed in a box of tea. In this hazardous, yet important, voyage, of 215 persons thirty-six lost their lives; the astronomer, Pearson, died at Java; and Ventenat at the Isle of France. Riche, the naturalist, remained at Java, as well as BiUadiere. Lahay, the botanist, also stopped there ; having under his care the bread fruit trees brought from the Friendly Islands. Piron, the painter, tarried with the governor of Sourabaya ; but after- ward returned to Europe, and published an account of the voyage. MR. JOHN TURNBULL.— 1800-1804. While second officer in the Barwcll, in her last voyage to China, m 1799, the first officer of that ship (Mr. John Buyers) and Mr. Turnbuli had every reason to suppose, from actual observation, that the Americans carried on a most lucrative trade to the north-weot of that vast continent. Strongly impressed with this persuasion, they resolved, on their return home, to represent it to some gentleman of well-known mercantile entei- prise. They approved of the speculation, and lost no time in preparing for its execution. A new ship, called the Margaret, mounting ten carriage guns, with two swivels, and a proportionate quantity of small arms, and built wholly of British oak, was at length purchased, and the command given to Mr. Buyers, while the cargo and trading part were intrusted to Mr. Turnbuli. They proceeded to Portsmouth in the latter end of May, 1800; and having here joined the Active frigate and the East India fleet, proceeded on their voyage. On the 17th of July had sight of the Island of Ma- deira ; but the commodore abandoning all hopes of reaching Funchal roads before dark, continued under sail till eight, P. M., and then hove-to, with the ship's head to the north-east, tacking occasionally till the morn- ing. At daylight made sail, and run between the Desertas and the island ; and the morning being fine and clear, and the island at not more than sis or seven miles distance, had a full and advantageous view of it. Fun- chal, the largest and most populous town of the island, is most beautifully situated on the south side of the declivity of a hill facing the sea; the houses rising gradually above each other, till they reach the summit of the first range of hills, where the prospect is bounded by another range, planted with vines and fruit trees, and adorned with country houses and gardens. The peculiar excellence of the wines is in a great degree oc- caaioned by the care taken in selecting the largest and best grapes for that of the first quality ; the next best for the second quality. Some of these grapes are as large as an English plumb. The wine of the JOHN TURNBULL. 379 first quality, called Madeira Malmsey, is made from a vine imported by- one of the Portuguese princes from Catidia. A very small quantity of this wine is made, and it is of course monopolized for the best houses. The next sort is what is ordinarily drank in London for Madeira. The price of Malmsey, in 1811, was as high as £80 per pipe. London par- ticular £60 ; and London Madeira £40. The wines of inferior quality are generally used by the populace. The anchorage lies about one mile and a quarter from a high rock, separated from the main ocean by a narrow channel of from forty to fifty yards wide, called the Loo or Lee rock, which is fortified so as to defend both the town and shipping in the bay against any sudden attempt or surprise from an enemy. This isUnd is reckoned at about thirty-sevea miles in length by eleven in breadth ; and, according to the latest estimate, its population may amount to 65,000 inhabitants, of which the town of Funchal, the capital, forms one-fifth. Leaving Madeira in the evening, at sunrise on the morning of the 23d saw the Island of Palma, one of the Canaries, or Fortunate Islands, bearing south-west. During the farther progress of their voyage they were so hampered by the southerly winds, and a current setting on the American coast, as to have approached within two degrees and a half of the coast of Brazil ; and the vessel being new, and therefore unseasoned, was in a very leaky slate. These circumstances induced them to bear up for St. Salvador, that the vessel might have the necessary repairs previous to entering into high latitudes. This city is large and populous, and appears divided by nature into an upper and lower town. The upper is seated on the summit of an eminence ; it commands an uninterrupted view of the bay and harbour of All-Saints, the sea and clouds alono terminating the boundless prospect. It is the se.it of the viceroy, the civil and military officers, and principal merchants ; while the lower town, which contains the wharfs, store-houses, and custom-house, is, for the most part, occupied by inhabitants of the inferior order, retail tradesmen, adventurers, and persons following mechanical trades. The houses have lattice-windows and balconies ; but the streets m many parts of the towa are so narrow, that two neighbours in opposite balconies might almost shake hands. The population is estimated at from 90 to 100,000. The inhabitants may be classed into three divisions, whites, mulattoes, and blacks, of which the latter is by somewhat the largest. In the dock-yard a ship of 64 guns, named the Principe de Brazil, was on the stocks ; it was built of the country wood, a wood of a species of Indian teek, and undoubtedly much stronger than any European oak. The iron, pitch, and tar, are understood to liave been brought from Lis- bon, the policy of the parent-country requiring everything wrought or manufactured to be imported from thence. This yard, from its commo- diousness, and still more from its cajwbilities of farther improvement and enlargement, attracted much attention. It ii a large square area of ground, immediately fronting the water, enclosed on all sides ; and its internal arrangements and accommodations are on a scale of magnitude and con- venience which would not disgrace a similar establishment in Europe. There are houses, apartments, and lodgings, for all the superior and under .)fficer3 ; the intendant of marine and master-builders have respectable iiccommodations, and the blacksmith and other handicraftsmen are com- fortably provided. On quitting this harbour they gave chase to every sail that came in light ; but, though they broughl-to several, they all proved Portuguese 580 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. On the 7lh of November, at noon, they saw the land about the Cape ol Good Ho]»e, hearing east by south, distant five or six leagues. At nooi brought the ship to'^an anchor in Table Bay, Cape Town bearing west south-west, distant half a mile. Their stay at the cape had now been near a month, and it was necessary to obey the calls of business, and proceed on the voyage. They accordingly took an atiectionate leave of their friends on the evening of the 7th of December, 1800. For the first ten days after leaving the cape had, with some little varia- tion, fair winds and moderate weather ; but at midnight, on the 18th, being in latitude 40 degrees 14 minutes, longitude 35 degrees 40 minutes, they experienced a very strong gale of wmd, accompanied with showers of sleet and hail-stones, from the west. At eight o'clock, on the 27th, the column on the south head, which points out the entrance to Port Jack- eon, bore north and by west, distant half a mile. At this place is station- ed a corporal and party, for th^ purpose of communicating, by signal, the intelligence of the arrival of any vessel to the colon.sts of Sydney, whoso distance from this is between six and seven miles. A pilot, in general, IS in attendance here. At nine brought up in Neutral Bay, a place ap- pointed by the port regulations for ships to anchor in previous to their entrance into Sydney Cove, and to make their report to the governor. At half-past two got under weight, and at half-past three came to an anchor in this most beautiful bason of water, in seven fathoms, in most excellent holding ground, and within half a pistol-shot of the shore, with- out one sick person on board. The captain and Mr. Turnbull agreed that the latter should continue at Port Jackson to dispose of the cargo in the best manner possible, while the former should proceed in the vessel upon the north-west speculation, which he did on the 9th of March, 1801. The town of Sydney, the capital of the colony and the seat of the govern :T\ent, is divided into two parts by a river, which empties itself into a cove iiamed after the town. Sydney Cove has thus a double advan- tage, that of being well and plentifully provided with excellent water, and at the same time possessing a harbour which might contain with ease all the royal navy of Great Britain. These twofold advantages rendered it much more eligible than Botany Bay, the original destination. The police of the colony is invested in the magistrates, who are ap- pointed by the governor, one or more to each principal district. Under them, in every district, is a head and petty constable, and for the better preservation of order, a certain number of watchmen, where the circum- stances seem to require it. The celebrated George Barrington held the oflfice of high-constable of Paramatta for many years, and in the faithful and vigorous discharge of his duty acquitted himself much to the satis- faction of the government. But he was now a mere living skeleton ; he was emaciated, and apparently in the last stage of human life. Having absolutely lost the use of his intellectual faculties, he had retired on a small pension allowed him for former services, a melancholy instance of abused talents, and the force of remorse and conscious sensibility operating on a mind capable of better things. This extraordinary character finished his coarse on the 28th of December, 1804, The land in the neighbourhood of Sydney, to the extent of eight or ten miles to the westward, is, with some exceptions, a light mould mixed with sand : about Paramatta it becomes somewhat deeper, and mixed with clay, but seldom produces more than from twelve to fourteen bushels per acre. In the town of Paramatta the governor had a large commodious housPj and several officers of the civil establishment reside here ; in this JOHN TTJRNBULL. 381 F^ace also are good military barracks, erected for a detachment of sixty vuen. There are few free people residing here ; the greater part of the inhabitants are convicts, who keep in cultivation some adjacent lands be- longing to the crown. About twenty miles west of Paramatta is the Hawkesbury settlement ; and on the road, about four miles from Paramatta, lies Toungabie, a set- tlement where the government keep their principal flocks of sheep and cattle, and a number of convicts for the cultivation of about four hundred acres of land belonging to the crown, producing at an average twenty bushels per acre. From this place are roads leading to Pennant hill, Berkham hill, and Castle hill, districts containing tracts of tolerably good land. The Hawkesbury settlement is fully six miles long ; the governor has a cottage here, and there is a good barrack for a small detachment of troops ; the farms are situated on each side of the river, which is capable of admitting vessels of 200 tons up to the governor's cottage, a distance from the sea of about forty miles ; but, by the windings and turnings of the river, is up- ward of 120. The banks of this river are composed of a rich black mould, from eight to ten or twelve feet deep ; this, however, only extends within a few chains of the ^"^d of the river, and appears to have been formed from its frequent in; ndations. Beyond this the country around appears to be a stiff land, composed of sand, earth, and clay, and improves much by cultivation. Higher up the river is the settlement of Richmond hill, where the land appears the same, but subject to the same incon- venience of inundation. On the head of a creek arising out of Botany Bay, and terminating in a small river named Georjje's River, and about eight miles from Paramatta, are several farms yielding from fourteen to eighteen bushels per acre. The aboriginal inhabitants of this distant region are indeed beyond comparison the most barbarous on the surface of the globe. The resi- dence of Europeans has here been wholly ineffectual ; the natives are still in the state as at our first settlement. Their mimicking the oddities, dress, walk, gait, and looks, of all the Europeans whom they have seen, from the time of Governor Phillips downward, is so e.xact, as to be a kind of historic register of their several actions and characters. Governor Phillips and Colonel Gross they imitate to the life. And to this day, if there be anything peculiar in any of our countrymen, officers in the corps, or even in the convicts ; any cast of the eye, or hobble in tlie gait ; any trip or strut, stammering or thick speaking, they catch it in a moment, and re- present it in a manner which renders it impossible not to recognise the original. They are moreover great proficients in the language and New- gate slang of the convicts ; and, in case of any quarrel, are by no means unequal to them in the exchange of abuse. Their principal subsfstence is drawn from the sea and rivers, the grand store-house of nature in all the lands and islands of the Pacific. When a dead whale is cast on shore, they live sumptuously, flocking to it in great numbers, and seldom leaving it till the bones are well picked. Their substitute for bread is a species of root, something resembling the fern ; it is roasted, and pounded between two stones, and being thus mixed with fish, &c., constitutes the chief part of their food. They havo oysters of an extraordinary size, three being sufficient for any ordinary man. The rocks are covered with others of a smaller size, and which may be had for the trouble of carriage and the labour of knocking them oflF. They are by no raeaios deficient in personal courage ; in their pitched 383 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. Battles of one part of the country against the other, or one individual against another, they display the most determined bravery. They defend themselves arainst the spears of thei^ assailants by opposmg only a shield of thick bark ; previous to their onset they join in a kind of song, and eradually increase their noise till they work themselves up into a frantic fury, their countenances being in the meantime convulsed, and every feature of their face expressive of the fire of their mind. One of their chiefs, Bennelong, a warrior of great repute, it is said, was caught by a very singular expedient : having taken a liking to a. sailor's jacket, it was offered to him without hesitation, and a sailor or- dered to assist him in putting it on ; the fellow obeyed, and by putting the back of the jacket in front, contrived to hamper the arms, and thus effectually secured the sturdy savage. "While he was in England, he was presented to many of the principal nobility and first families of the kingdom, and received numerous presents of clothes and other articles, which a savage of any other country would have deemed inestimable. It was not so, however, with Bennelong ; he was no sooner relanded in his own country than he forgot, or at least laid aside, all the ornaments and improvements he had reaped from his travels, and returned, as if with increased relish, to all his former loath- some and savage habits. His clothes were thrown away, as burthensonoe restraints on the freedom of his limbs, and he became again as complete a New Hollander as if he had never left his native wilds. Having before sent a small adventure to Norfolk Island, Mr. Turnbuli resolved to give it a trial in person, and left Sydney for that purpose on the 25th of August, 1801. In point of climate the situation of this island is delightful and salu- brious ; the latitude is 29 degrees, and therefore the general state of the weather is seldom in extremes, neither intolerably hot nor excessively cold. Without the aid of any manure the soil yields two harvests in the same year ; the first is of wheat, which, being sown in April or the be- ginning of May, is usually reaped in October ; the ground is then turned up afresh, and planted with maize, which is ready for pulling against the next seed-time. He was moreover informed, that many of the farmers have practiced this course of cropping for a long series of years, and without having experienced any diminution in the productive powers of the soil. The ordinary price of pork here is sixpence per pound, dead, or four- pence, alive ; but if the payment is made in spirits, it may be obtained for half that sum ; for government very wisely having prohibited any distilla- tion, the settlers will purchase spirits at almost any price. Wheat is eight shillings per bushel ; maize, four ; Indian meal, five shillings ; po- tatoes, about six shillings and sixpence ; onions, from eight to ten shil- lings per hundred weight ; a fowl, eighteen pence, and a goose from five to six shillings. The quantity of land hitherto granted by the crown to a settler is nearly as follows : twenty-five acres to a convict whose time is expired, and allowed to settle ; thirty to a private soldier ; and fifty to a non-commissioned officer. These grants, however, are not made in- discriminately ; they are given only to such as have recommended them- selves by the sobriety and decorum of their general deportment, and are seldom obtained without the interest and recommendation of the superin- tending officers. Adjacent to Norfolk Island are two smaller islands, known by tha names of Phillip and Nepean Islands, the former about half the size JOHN TITRNBULL. 883 Norfolk Island, and situated about six or seven miles to the south of it ; wholly uncultivated, but abundant in herliagcj. That it mitrht he rendered as useful as possible to the government, several hogs were turned loose, in the expectation that, in the process of time, they would multiply so as to form a convenient stock. It does not, however, appear that the event of this first e.vperiment justified the expectation. Left Norfolk Island on the 9th of August, 1802, with a fair wind, which continued for about a week, during which time they had proceeded as far to the eastward » the longitude of 179 degrees west. On the 2nd of September made the small Island of Maitia, situated about a degree to the eastward of Otaheite, the sovereignty of which it acknow- ledges. Continuing their course during the night, with a moderate breeze, found themselves by daylight under the Island of Otaheite. The natives having already discovered the vessel, were assembled in great numbers on the reefs which extend along the shore, viev\'ing the ship, as it passed along, with the most attentive curiosity, the island exhibiting an appearance equally beautilul and picturesque. At half past ten, on the morning of the 24th of September, 1802, anchored in Matavai Bay, situated in the latitude of 17 degrees 29 minutes south, and longitude 149 degrees 36 minutes west. As soon as the vessel was anchored they were visited by the master of the Porpoise, lying there, who gave an account of a very destructive war which, for a considerable time, had prevailed in the island, said to be ex- cited by the oppressive and tyrannical government of the family of Pomar- rey. During this conversation, some of the missionaries settled in Ota- heite came off to congratulate them on their arrival, with Captain House, formerly commander of the Norfolk, which had been wrecked there, and a Mr. Lewin, a landscape painter, sent hither from Botany Bay, for the purpose of taking views and making drawings of objects in this island. These gentlemen confirmed the account of the war in the country, and the general dearth in consequence of its ravages. The King Otoo, with his concert Tetua, came alongside in separate canoes, both dressed in their teboota, a dress appropriated for the use of the royal family and females of the first distinction. This part of dress is merely an oblong piece of cloth, having an opening in the middle, to be passed over the head, and hanging down before and behind, but open at the sides, allowing the wearer to move with great freedom. The queea had besides a piece of country cloth wrapped round her waist, and her hair dressed with a sort of bonnet made of the leaves of the cocoa tree. She appeared to be about twenty-four years of age, with good feature*, and in size above the ordinary standard of British ladies : she was em- ployed in the humble office of bailing the water out of her canoe. She and Otoo were cousins, and her sister was married to Terenaveroa, Kintj of Tiarrabou, Otoo's brother ; following the patriarchal system in this respect, of marrying their nearest relations. This lady, at their first in- terview, was somewhat reserved ; but, upon better acquaintance, iiecam« more familiar. The king appeared in his teboota, and marra, this last being a narrow piece of cloth passing between the legs and round the middle, with the ends follded inward ; these two articles constitute a com- plete Olaheitean dress. The king being very desirous to obtain some of their ava, that is, spi- rituous liquors, they gratified him with a small quantity in the shell of a cocoa nat, which was handed down to him in his canoe. On receiving 334 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD the present he said aloud, my ty te lata, my ty te pahia—verj good men, very good ship ; and with this compliment in his mouth, took his leave to pay a similar visit, and with a similar purpose, to the Porpoise. They afterward learned that his majesty was somewhat too much addicted to the use of such liquors, and that he would go any length to procure them . His father, Pomarrey, had not yet returned from the expedition against his enemies in another part of the island. It may be necessary here to observe, that, by the laws of Otaheite, the son, immediately on his birth, succeeds to the dignity of his father, the father from that instant be- coming only administrator for his child. Otoo, therefore, was king ; and Pomarrey, his father, regent. About' this time the king's mother, Edeah, appeared alongside in a canoe, attended by her favourite, a chief of the Island Huaheine, a man of most savage figure and manners. This lady had for come years been separated from her husband, Pomarrey ; but had not on this account suffered any diminution of power or respect in the country. These two personages came on board the ship with their characteristic frankness, and were treated with all possible attention, having learned from the gentlemen of the mission that Edeah still enjoyed such induence in the state, that her favour might be essentially useful, as they had everything to fear from her resentment. No pains, therefore, were spared to gain her good will ; she and her favourite chief were conducted to the cabin, and there entertained with grog, tobacco, &.C., &c. Several presents ■were offered her, on which she seemed to set very little value ; but ex- pressed great eagerness to possess a poo picey, or musket. This queen dowager and her paramour continued to diink and interchange tobacco till they weie nearly incapable of leaving the ship, each appearing to be equally delighted with their entertaiiiment. The attendant was so well pleased, that, on taking leave, he urged Mr. Turnbull to accept him as a tayo, or intimate friend, a civility he declined in the way least likely to give umbrage. Pomarrey having by this tiflne heard of their arrival, hastened to wel- come them to his country, doubtless in the hope of receiving his share of the presents. His approach, with two canoes, was conducted with many formalities. When he came alongside he ordered his arrival to be an- nounced in due form, and refused to come on board until they were all in readiness to receive him with due respect. On entering the ship he presented to Mr. Turnbull a plantain leaf, the Otaheite;m token of peace and friendship, and behaved on the whole with much affability, mingled with a certain feeling of his former dignified rank. Mr. Turnbull was particularly distinguished by Pomarrey, who em- braced him in the country fashion, that is, by touching noses ; after which, Pomarrey squeezed hiin gently all over the body, and swaddled him up in a quantity of cloth, so that he could vtith difficulty move his limbs, being literally musket-proof. Pomarrey informed him that this was the practice in his country in making a tayo or friend, at the same time giving his own name to his newly-adopted tayo, whose name he took to himself in exchange. Pomarrey was not less than six feet four inches in height, remarkably stout and well-proportioned. His son Oioo is upward of six feet two inches high, and equally well-built Ih the train of followers was a dwarf, only thirty-nine inches high, full- grown, and duly proportioned in every respect, his age between twenty- three and twenty-four. On the day followmg they received another visit from the greater parf JOHN TURNBULL 385 of the royal family, so that it became necessary to distribute presents, in order to secure the good understanding already begun. Nothincr was so acceptable to them as fire-arms, for they considered everything else as useless trifles. They accordingly gave to Pomariey a blunderbuss, with which he seemed to be much delighted ; and to his son, the reigning King Otoo, who lay a little oft" from the ship in his canoe, they offered a musket. This distribution was not, however, relished by Otoo: being now a greater man than his father, he insisted on his right to the blun- derbuss, and Pomarrcy was compelled to content himself with a musket. A fresh difficulty arose in making an acceptable present to the queen dowager, Edeah. Whatever was otiered to her, cloth, looking-glasses, scissors, even axes, she rejected with disdain, making them understand that she was as capable as any man in the country of making use of fire- arms. They had indeed been informed that she was not less e.xpert as a. warrior than as a politician ; and that her resentment was much more to be dreaded tnan uial of her late husband, Pomarrey. They therefore explained that the articles presented to her were such as would have been eagerly preferred by their countrywomen ; and concluded by giving her a musket. It has already been mentioned that a ruinous war had lately prevailed in Otaheite. This, as far as could be learned by the Europeans resident on the island, had been occasioned by an unusual oppression of the several members of the royal family, and particularly by the son of Pomarrey, the young King Otoo, who, it was reported, set no bounds to his haughty, domineering disposition. His administration has at all times given extreme otl'ence to the inhabitants of the district of Atahourou, who considered him only as an usurper, and were constantly disposed to resist his measures and to throw otl' his yoke. In this war the missionaries had converted their dwelling-house at that place into a sort of fortress, having procured the guns of the Norfolk, which, as alrfoady mentioned, had been wrecked on the shore. With these guns being planted on the upper story of the house, and having laid in a large supply of bre3d fruit, cocoa nuts, and other necessaries, they were able to withstand a more vigorous siege than that of the Alahourians. Happily for Pomarrey, the crew of the Norfolk, and other European residents in the island, in number about thirty, and all accustomed to the use of fire- arms, espoused his cause in this extremity. On this, indeed, as on former occasions, himself and family were solely indebted to his European allies. They now resolved to leave this island, and touch at that of Huaheine, to learn what supphes might be there procured. Leaving Otaheite on the following day, they arrived at Huaheine, after a run of nearly thirty leagues to the north-west. This harbour, Owharrow, is large, spacious, and perfectly safe from all winds, being defended by a reef of rocks, the natural barrier to most of the harbours in these seas. The low land next the water has a most beautiful appearance, abounding with bread fruit, cocoa nut, and other trees. The Island of Huaheine, iii proportion to its mawnrtude, appeared far more abundant than Otaheite ; though in Huaheine, as in Otaheite, the whole hope and dependence of the islanders seemed to be in the fertility of that narrow slip or border of land which surrounds the whole island next to the water ; this border is common to most of the islands of the South Seas. Having made the necessary inquiries as to the chief object of the voyage, and finding that it would be but of little advantage to continue longer in Huaheine, they took leave of the friendly chiefs, and directed their coMrss 33 386 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. for Ulietea, a much larger island, about eight leagues to the westward. Th« stature of the king here was not inferior to that of his brother sovereign, and he appeared equally flattered with the cause assigned for curiosity, vhat of gratifying their countrymen upon their return. But, though equalling Poinarrey in stature, he was less corpulent, and, in the general contour of his person, did not appear to possess the same portly dignity. His name was Tomaqua, and that of his queen Teenmonie. At Uhetea they were surprised by the appearance of one of their countrymen, a man of the name of Pulpit ; he came oflf with the king, and was accompanied oy his wife, as he called her, an Ocaheitean girl, of fourteen or tifteea years of age, dressed in a piece of black cloth of British manufacture, wrapped round her body by way of a marra. After some hesitation, this younw woman was allowed to come on board with her husband. The poor fellow was no sooner upon the deck than, with a wildness of look and gestures which evinced i.is sincerity, he uttered an impassioned excla- mation of gratitude to heaven, " that he had escaped out of the hands of these savage murderers." In answer to their demand of an explanation, he said, that, but a very short time before, himself and wife had been compelled to preserve their lives by flight, escaping with difficulty from Huaheine to Ulietea ; that he h:id been landed in the former island by Mr. Bass, of the Venus, (the intrepid discoverer of the straits so named,) who, beincr a part owner and supercargo of this vessel, had, like themselves come to an over-stocked market at Port Jackson ; and, in order to make the most of a bad business, had entered into a contract with the govern- ment for supplying the settlement with a certain quantity of pork at a stated price ; and, in return for his voluntary service on board that ship, had received from the above-named gentleman such articles as he con- ceived might be useful to him on the island. Among these articles were a musket and a double barrelled gun, which so powerfully worked on the minds of the natives, that, finding all other means and artifices to get possession of them ineffectual, they at last resolved to murder him, and in that manner procure the whole of his little property. J'his, their hor- rible purpose, had been discovered to him by the Otaheitean girl, wlio understood the language, and overheard their consultations upon the subject. Rendered desperate by this information, he resolved to lose his life rather than suffer himself to be plundered of everything by which life, in such a situation, could be rendered supportable. He was, there- fore, continually on the watch against his foes, and was faithfully assisted by the young Otaheitean, who was well aware of the fate awaiting her in the event of her lover's murder. This course of life continued for some days, until being at last overpowered by incessant anxiety, watching, and fatigue. Pulpit was surprised by a party of natives, his property pillaged, liis person seized, and led away as a sacrifice to some of their divinities. He was conducted about half a league from the spot, expecting every moment to be his last. The natives, however, began to dispute among themselves respecting the treatment he was to receive ; when an elderly woman, who seemed to possess much authority among them, and who had constantly opposed all sanguinary measures, threatened to leave the island if they persisted in their designs. Her remonstrances appeared to have great influence with the natives ; they therefore desisted from their project, and conducted him back to his former place of residence, which was now entirely stripped. Being an ingenious man, they made him pro- mise to repair some muskets belonging to themselves • and having »ay- JOHN TURNBULL. 387 plied him and the Otaheiteaii girl with some provisions, as a peace-offering, they withdrew. Pulpit now bent all his thoughts on making his escape ; and, an opportunity soon occurring, he availed himself of a dark night to seize one of their canoes, and, accuinp.inied by his heroic wife, made the bes-t of his way to Ulietea. Here again, not tiuding himself comfortably situated with the islanders, he had taken the present opportunity to seek a refuge in their ship. From the account given by Pulpit of the inhabi- tants of Ulietea, they seemed to be much of the same character and natiira! habits with those in Huaheinc ; it was, therefore, impossible to prevail on him to return to the shore. " Take me to the Sandwich Islands," said he, with the utmost earnestness, " or to any other j)lace ; only leave me not here to be murdered." He was, therefore, sudered to remain on board, as well as the young female from Otaheite ; nor was it long before they had good reason to be satisfied that his unfavourable character of these islanders had neither originated in malice nor a disordered imagina- tion, both of which they had previously suspected might have influenced him in his narrative. In the night before the Margaret's intended departure from Ulietea, it was discovered that the following persons had deserted from the ship, viz., David Clark, an apprentice, 'i'homas SmiLh, a cooper by trade, Timothy Gauntey and William Andrews, seamen ; the last three were Botany Bay convicts, and had tempted to their party two Ota- heiteans, who had come with them from that island. This project had doubtless originated with some of the chiefs of the island, who had acted as tayos to one or other of the deserters. As soon as the discovery was made, which was about two in the morning, Mr. Turnbull went singly on shore, to request the king to use his utmost authority to have the people restored. When he was informed what had happened, with a dissimulation worthy of a courtier, the king e.'cpressed the utmost surprise, accompanying it with a declaration, that the men had certainly not landed near them, nor been seen by them on shore. They had good reason, however, afterward to believe that the deserters were at that very time in the immediate neighbourhood. A whole day had been lost in this fruitless negotiation ; about half an hour past ten o'clock at night, Turnbull was roused from sleep by the voice of the captain, who then held the watch, exclaiming, "I'urnbull, our ship is on shore — the ship is on shore." Jumping instantly out of bed, and running upon deck in his shirt, he found there was no wmd to affect the ship ; and it being too dark to see ihc shore, sounded and found up- ward of twelve fathoms of depth, and no sensible motion of the ship or water. Examining the cables, he found them both lying slack on the deck, which confirmed stdl more the idea that the captain was mistaken ; but the seamen being commanded to haul the cables, the first pull brought the ends of both of them on board. It is impossible to describe the general sensation produced by this discovery, that their cables were cut, and they were drifting on shore. Another anchor, having an iron stock, was im- mediately ordered to be cleared away ; but such was the alarm and confu- sion, that it was not till after repeated trials they effected the stocking of it. It happened very providentially that there was not a breath of wind stirring, otherwise the ship must have speedily gone to pieces, for she now lay with her broadside against a reef of coral rocks, the edges of which were as •harp as flints, having twelve fathoms of water on the outsind blunderbusses and cutlasses distributed on the deck, to be ready for JOHN TURNBULL. 389 Bcnrice at a moment's notice. And, as much as possible, to prevent the stones thrown by the natives from doing injury, awnings were spread over the deck, and every other preciiution taken to enable them to sell their lives at the dearest r;ite and defend the ship to the last extremity. About half-past six in the evening, the wind, which had hitherto blown from the sea, shifted gent-ly round to a land-breeze, furnishing them an opportunity of getting away unperceived in the night. That their ope- rations might not be discovered, they muffled the pawls of the windlass, and began to heave away upon one anchor at a time. In all these trans- actions they received signal services from poor Pulpit, whom they had taken on board here ; for he was an excellent marksman, and was well aware of what his fate would be, should he again fall into the hands of the Ulieteans ; he therefore fought like a lion, resolved never to yield but with his last breath. His young Otaheitean wife likewise behaved like a heroine, carrying powder to the men, and exerting herself to the ut most in every way in which she could be useful. Their next station was the island called Maura or Mobidie, being the most leeward and smallest of the Society Islands. It is only about four- teen or fifteen miles in circuit, and appears to be surrounded by a reef of coral rocks, which render the approach to the shore very ditficult. Leaving this, they bade adieu for the present to the Society Islands, and now shaped a course for the Sandwich Islands. The wind was so scanty during the whole of the passage, that it was with difficulty thev made Whoahoo, an island subject to Tamahama, the great chief of the Sandwich Islands, on the 17th of December, J 802. Here they were informed that the king, Tamahama, attended by the greater part of his chiefs, was at present at Mowee. It is the wise policy of this chief, that all those who possess any authority or influence in the country, should accompany him in his progress through his dominions, that he may have them constantly under his eye, and not leave them exposed to the seduc- tions and conspiracies of his rival chiefs. From farther information received here, Tamahama seems to be making rapid progress in his schemes of aggrandizement. After having defeated the rightful sove- reign of this Island of Whoahoo, and all the kings of the other islands to the eastward, he has forced him, after many ineffectual struggles, to take refuge in the Island of Atooi. Thus the sovereign authority over all these islands remains in his family, and his power and riches, from his intercourse with shipping, were hourly increasing. He was at this lime making great preparations to exterminate the fugitive king, even from his place of retreat. Upon leaving Whoahoo, directed their course to Atooi, off which island they arrived the 26th of December, 1802. The exilea King of these islands bears a character infinitely superior, in a moral point of view at least, to that of his more powerful rival, Tamahama. He ap- peared to be loved almost to adoration, and his authority, from affection, seemed to be increased almost in the same proportion as his actual pow- er had become diminished. On the following morning they received a visit from this good king, and were welcomed very heartily by him to Atooi. From some Englishmen, who had followed his fortunes for sevo ral years, this unfortunate chief had acquired such an acquaintance with their language, that he was able to understand and answer any plain ques- tion that was put to him. Having collected about three tons of yams, they set sail to the east« ward of Owyhee, Soon after their arrival they received a vi.'sit from 33» 390 VOi'AOES ROUND THE WORLD. their countryman, Mr. Young, who had resided there for fourteen yeari past, from whom they had a confirmation of the particulars respecting Tamahama. His palace is built after the European style, of brick, and glazed windows, and defended by a battery of ten guns. He has Euro- pean and American artificers about him of almost every description. In- deed his own subjects, from their intercourse with Europeans, have acquired a great knowledge of several of the mechanical arts, and have thus enabled him to increase his navy, a very favourite object with him. His dominion seems now to be completely established. He is not only a great warrior and politician, but a very acute trader, and a match for any European in driving a bargain. He is well acquainted with the different weights and measures, and the value which all articles ought to bear in exchange with each other ; and is ever ready to take the advantage of the necessities of those who apply to him or his people for supplies. Tamahama's ardent desire to obtain a ship from Captain Vancouver was, in all probability, first excited by the suggestions of Young and his countrymen, Davis ; but such was the effect of this undertaking, that Ta- mahama became immediately more sparing of his visits on board the Discovery ; his time being now chiefly employed in attending to the car- penters at work on this new man-of-war, which, when finished, was named the Britannia. This was the beginning of Tamahama's navy ; and, from his own observations, with the assistance of Messrs. Young, Davis, &c., he has laboured inflexibly in improving his marine force, which he has now brought to a respectable state ; securing to him not only a de- cided superiority over the frail canoes of his neighbours, but the means of transporting his warriors to distant parts. Some of his vessels are employed as transports in carrying provisions from one island to another, to supply his warriors ; while the largest are used as men-of-war, and are occasionally mounted with a few light guns. No one better under- stands his interest than this ambitious chief; no one better knows how to improve an original idea. The favours of Vancouver and his other Euro- pean benefactors would have been thrown away on anv other savage ; but Tamahama possesses a genius above his situation. His body-guards, who may be considered in some respects as regularly disciplined troops, go on duty not unfrequently with the drum and fife, and relieve each other as in Europe, calling out, " all is well " at every half hour, as on board of ship. Their uniform at this time was simply a blue great-coat with yellow facings. On the evening of the 21st of January stood along the shore to the eastward, taking the advantage of a land-breeze. On the .5th of March, in standing to the northward, at about half-past eleven, P. M., saw land. At eleven, A. M., another low island, almost level with the water, was seen from the maintop by one of the seamen. At noon, on the 7th, a low island, seen in the morning, bore from north by west half west to north by east half east, distant five or six miles. On the 10th of March, continuing their course to the northward, an island was seen bearing from north-east to north-east by east, at from twelve to fourteen miles distance In compliment to the late Sheriff of London, Sir Richard Phillips, they named It Phillip's Island; it is situated in latitude 16 degrees 24 minutes south, and longitude 143 degrees 37 minutes west. To another in its neighbourhood, situated in latitude 16 degrees 12 minutes south, and lon- gitude 143 degrees 57 minutes west, they gave the name of Holt's Island. Proceeding again, they arrived at the small Island of Maitia, (the Recrea- tion of Rofrgewein,) situated in the latitude of 15 degrees 48 minutes JOHN TURNBULL. 391 south, and longitude 147 degrees 58 minutes west. At daylight, on the 21st, the Island of Otaheite bore from south by east to west by north half north, distant five miles. At noon anchored in Matavai Bay. During their absence, they found the ship Nautdus had been at Oiaheite, and taken away all the hogs she could procure. The captain and Mr. Turnbull now concurred in opinion to sail with the ship ig some of the islands lying to windward ; and thence procuring a live stock of hogs, should bring them to Otaheite to be slaughtered. The latter gentleman with two or three assistants were to remain at Otaheite on the salting business. Mr. Turnbull, after some time, became uneasy with respect to the Bhip, as she had now been away two months instead of three weeks. Otoo frequently said the ship was "Killed dead hy the stones,'" he was certain of it. At length the fatal remains of the Margaret were disco- vered by the natives, about three leagues to the northward of the island. The conjectures of the royal family, the missionaries, and the natives, seemed all to lead to one point ; and, by their expressive looks, it was not difficult to comprehend their object. The sight of the sail confirmed these apprehensions beyond any farther doubt ; it was as large as three of the boat's, and could belong to nothing but a ship. From contrary winds and lee currents, it seems, the ship had been a fortnight in getting to windward ; and it was only the evening previous to the accident that the captain had commenced trading with the natives. The business ot the captain, as he proposed to renew the trade for pearls (the principal object of his visit) on the succeeding morning, was to keep his station during the night ; but while in the act of inlying to windward for this pur- pose, the ship was unfortunately lost on a low reef of rocks and sand- banks, in the vicinity of a cluster of islands called the Pallisers, in lati- tude 15 degrees 38 minutes south, and longitude 146 degrees 30 minutes west, which had never before been discovered. The captain and the crew landed with much difficulty, and employed themselves in saving whatever stores were within their reach; but during the ensuing night the boat was stolen, thro'.igh the treachery of two Otaheitean natives who belonging to the ship, and could never afterward be recovered. As a last resource, therefore, the deck of the ship was broken up, and, with the boards and nails it afforded, a kind of punt was made. Being flat- bottomed, it of consequence floated in less water ; and even that with some difficulty was got over the reef. The craft being finished, the crew, to the number of eighteen, embarked, having on board only a few muskets, a small quantity of^powder, one bag of bread, and ten gallons of water. Even this was so brackish that nothing but their present situation could have induced them to have made use of it ; for the sand-bank being only about forty yards across, and not more than four feet above the level of the sea, it was only by digging a good depth that any could be obtained. After a'voyage of five day sin this most miserable of crafts, they at length reached Otaheite, nearly exhausted. After the unfortunate circumstance of the loss of the Margaret, their prospects at Otaheite were very gloomy. Having saved little or no pro- perty from the wreck, it became a subject of serious consideration in what manner to subsist. Otaheite is as little calculated as Europe for those who are without money. The blessing of Providence, however, again interposed ; for, after they had been about three months in sus- pense, on the afternoon of the 27th of August, 1803, a shout of te pakia, te valWa, (a ship, a ship,) resounding through the island, aroused them into new expectations; Hope and fear now alternately prevailed ; they 392 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. apprehended that the captain might have some possible objection , that lie might be going to China, or on some other more circuitous voyage. It so happened, however, that the goodness of Providence was complete ; the ship was going to the very place to which of all others they wished, to Port Jaclison. There were so many cere«nonies to be performed at Atahourou, that the business had not been finally settled when the ship arrived. The in- telligence of this event, however, brought Pomarrey home to prepare his presents ; he got his hogs in the canoe, and was half way to the ship, when he was seized suddenly with a fit, and, falling with his hands on the side of the canoe, expired. The poor fellows in the canoe imme- diately paddled back as fast as possible to his house at Oparree, where, on her way likewise to visit the ship. Edeah had by this time arrived. It has been before mentioned, that they imputed the death of others to the prayers of the missionaries ; and tliat they are persuaded the prayers of these holy men have this kind of sacred witchcraft. Under such impres- sions, it may readily be conceived that the situation of the missionaries is not the most pleasant in the world. They indeed neglect nothing to render their mission successful ; on every Sabbath-day they traversed the country, two by two, in different directions. But, it is feared, their efforts will for a Ions; period be unavailing. The natives consider them as very good men, and love and esteem them accordingly ; but they do not comprehend, and therefore do not believe, the articles of their religion. One Sunday evening Mr. Jefferson requested permission to exhort Otoo and Terenaveroa, with all their followers ; Otoo sent a messenger to Mr. TurnbuU on the occasion, saying that he wished to see him ; he ac- cordingly went, and found Mr. Scott and Mr. Jefferson in the act of ex- hortation. Their congregation might amount to about fifty. Upon its conclusion, Mr. Turnbull demanded of Otoo what he vyanted with him. He asked, upon the departure of the missionaries, whether it was all true they had preached 1 He replied in the affirmative ; that it was strictly 60 according to his own belief, and that of all the wiser and bette- part of his countrymen. He demanded where Jehovah lived ; Mr. TivrnbuU pointed to the heavens. He said he did not believe it. His brother was, if possible, still worse. Edeah was looking on, with a kind of haughty and disdainful indifference. It was all havenj, or falsehood ; adding, they would not believe unless they could see ; and observed, as they could bring down the sun and rnoon by means of a quadrant, why could they not bring down their Saviour by a similar operation 1 The missionaries apparently lived together in the greatest love and harmony, and all of them presented an example of industry. Their situa- tion, however, was by no means so comfortable as many of their country- men may be hiclined to imagine ; for as their stock of European articles decreases, they must proportionably lose their influence over the natives. They possessed a public garden very well stocked and cultivated, and the greater part of them a private one not much inferior. The space en- closed within the palisades of the public garden is about four acres. It seems natural to imagine that its beauty and utility would have acted as a stimulus to the natives to imitate their industry ; but the indolence of the Otaheiteans is beyond the cure of any common remedy. In the gar- dens of the missionaries are lemon, lime, orange, peach, and citron trees, in great number and perfection ; they have, moreover, patches of the tarra root, Indian corn, and indigo. It must be some vears, however, before they can expect to derive any considerable iidvantage from these. Mi*. JOHN- TURNBtJLL. 393 Jefferson had opened a school, but only one native attended ; this was the daughter of a European, one of the crew of the Matilda. These good men, at Mr. TurnbuU's departure, were very an.xious to receive intelli- gence from their friends in England, and were in daily expectation of the arrival of one of their ships. Edeah obserfed, in a manner which it was not difficult to interpret, that this ship was a long time coming.* They took their final leave of Otaheiie on the°2d of September, 1P03, bending their course for the Friendly Islands. On their way thither made Savage Island ; and the wind being fair and a commanding breeze, sailed within the distance of three miles of the shore. They next made the Island of Eooa.t or Middleburg, the easternmost of the Friendly Islands, and lay off and on the greater part of the day, trading with the natives for cocoa nuts and curiosities. These people, in their manners and ap- pearance, have a great resemblance to the Sandwich islanders. Their canoes, with the exception of those of the Sandwich Islands, were tho neatest seen in these seas. The people appeared to be persuaded that their curiosities were inestimable, for they observed no moderation in they demands. They trade as if they had been accustomed to extortion all their lives ; they wanted axes and scissors in exchange for their worth- less trumpery. From the short visit paid this people, it is impossible to say anything with regard to their habits and manners ; the uncommon ferocity of their looks, however, must excite an involuntary surprise at a first interview with them. This perhaps appeared more striking, as they had but then left the Otaheiteans, whose looks rather invite to confidence. It is said that some of the missionaries, in their efforts to improve the condition of this people, have lost their lives. The remainder were pro- videntially preserved by the arrival of a Spanish prize, on board of which was one of their brethren of the name of Harris, who, in despair of effect- ing any useful purpose, had left the Marquesas. He had joined this prize as a kind of navigating pilot at Otaheite, on her way to Port Jackson ; and, in consequence of his interest, had procured the admission of the other missionaries on board, and thus, in all probability, saved their lives. Since that time, nearly the whole of the Portland's crew have fallen victims to the treachery of these islanders ; and three of the sailors belonging to the Union, who landed among them, have been barbarously and inhumanly murdered. And, while on this subject, we cannot omit a circumstance of a peculiar nature, which took place at Vavao, one of the neighbour- ing islands, in August, 1801 •. The last missionary ship, on her passage from Otaheiie to China, waiving all intercourse with Tongataboo, made choice of the harbour of that island, which is represented as large and capacious, for the purpose of recruiting her stock of water, &c., &c. On clearing the harbour, they observed a large double canoe, which had just arrived from the Hapaee Islands, and had an European on board. Curi- osity led them to send the pinnace to hear the state of those islands ; at one, P. M., the pinnace returned with the European, who proved to * The continued acts of oppression that have been exercised by Pomarrey, or Otoo, since the death of his father, has, exactly as was foreseen, brought upon him a just and merited punishment. The whole people, unable to en- dure their hard lot, and stimulated Ijy a desire of liberty and of vengeance, had recourse to arms ; and after various engagements, in which tiiey were always successful, at last drove him and the whole of his partisans from the island. The missionaries, alarmed, and under the most serious apprehen- sions for the safety of their lives, came to a resolution of abandoning th« island, and retiring to Port Jackson. t Or Eaoowee. 394 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. De Mr. George Veeson, who was left at Tongataboo by the Duff. The pinnace had' some difficulty in getting him, as the chief had given orders to take him on shore, and then destroy him, that he might not give infor- mation respecting several Europeans that had been murdered by them at the Hapaee Islands. He haJ made several attempts to get away previous to this, and was often on the point of escaping, but the vigilance of the savages rendered them all abortive. On making the land about Port Jackson, some young Otaheiteans on board were in raptures, probably thinking it was England ; but seeing the barrenness of the country as they entered the harbour, and the scragginess of the trees, their spirits evidently sunk. On coming to an anchor in Sydney Cove, there was a coach and four standing almost opposite the ship. This astonished them btyond measure. Each inquired of the other their opinion of this wonderful phenomenon. They concluded that it must be a travelling house ; but they could find no name for the horses, having in their country no larger animals than hogs, though some of them indeed were of an uncommon size, weighing from thirty to thirty-five score. The Otaheiteans therefore called them by the name of mighty hogs. During Mr. Turnbull's absence from the colony in ISOl, and return in the latter end of 1S03, many stone buildings had been erected, and the appearance of the whole town much changed for the better, the governor encouraging the erection of these edifices by all the means in his power. The discovery of lime-stone in various parts at this time essentially con- tributed to the execution of these patriotic efforts. Many of the houses, which had been erected at the first settlement of the colony, were in a stale of rapid decay ; the governor, therefore, with a laudable provision for the gradual improvement of the town, prohibited the proprietors from rebuilding them int he old style. If they were in circumstances to rebuild with stone, they were to do so ; if not, they were at all events to introduce some improvement upon the ancient method, or the governor refused them his sanction and assistance. The most common indigenous animals of this country are the dog, which is here of the wolf nature, and much eaten by the natives. The kangaroo is likewise considered by them a great delicacy ; and, in times of scarcity, was much sought after by the European inhabitants. They used it as a substitute for beef ; it does not eat unlike it, and usually weighs from twenty-five to one hundred and forty pounds. Bass's Straits, since their discovery, have afforded employment for a number of hands, who are engaged by different individuals at Port .lack- son, and carried thither in small colonial vessels. They are stationed in different places, in gangs of ten or twelve, more or less, to collect the oil of the sea-elephant, and seal-skins, with which the straits abounded on their first discovery. The elephant oil, next to the spermaceti, is said to be the most valuable of any. A mercantile gentleman resident in the colony, Mr. Robert Campbell, who, from his public spirit and the general accommodation he affords the settlers, is deserving of every encouragement, was making up a cargo of it for the English market. When Mn Turn- bull left the colony, he had collected about ISO tons. The seal-skins are generally disposed of to American ami other ships going to China, but latterly they have found a much more profitably market in E^igland. Some few are tanned and worked up for various purposes in the country. The country having been originally covered with wood, and the stumps of the trees still remaining in the ground, agriculture is prevented from being carried on by the help of cattle. It is by manual labour only, and JOHN TURNBniX. 395 chiefly by the hoe, that the soil is cultivated, which much enhances the value of the produce. The cultivation of tiie country, therefore, has taken place but in patches, where some peculiar advantageous circumstances, as good land, a navigable creek or river, &,c., have induced a farHily to settle. They hold their lands as a perpetual grant under the hand ot the gover- nor and seal of the colony ; and the only clause is a quit-rent of two shillings and sixpence per annum for every ICO acres, and a reservation of such timber for the crown as may be fit for naval purposes. The quantity of land hitherto granted by the crown to settlers is twenty-five acres to a convict whose time is expired, and who has been allowed to settle ; thirty to a private soldier ; fifty to a non-commissioned officer ; one hundred to a commissioned ditto ; and one hundred and eighty to a free man from England. But of late the regulation in some instances has been broken through, and government has been more liberal in their grants. The appearance of the farms bespeaks the industry of the owners, and every farmer keeps as many men as the produce of his land will admit of. The seed-time for wheat is from the beginning of April to the middle of May, and it is reaped in December. Indian corn is ])lanted in ilie months of October and November, and pulled in April and May. The produce, of course, is different according to the various natures of the land, from twelve to forty bushels per acre. At Hawkesbury the land, when first cultivated, is said to have produced sixty bushels per acre, but on calculation they do not make the average of the colony, in ordinary years, more than fifteen bushels per acre The quantity of seed-wheat required is from one and a half to two and a half bushels per acre, and that of Indian corn two quarts per acre. Potatoes may be planted and dug throughout the whole year. The grape answers well, but is little cultivated in the country. The day's work, tliroughout the year, is fixed at ten hours, and si.K on Saturday. If a master employs any prisoner in his own time, his pay- ment is not to be more than at the rate of one shilling per diem. Clothing for the convicts is issued twice annually, viz., in December and Juno. In December each man is furnished with one frock, one shirt, one pair trousers, one pair breeches, and one pair shoes ; in June, with two jackets, two shirts, one pair breeches or trousers, one hat, and two pair shoes. Masters not having an opportunity of clothing such prisoners, on appli- cation, are supplied with the above articles at the government price. By his agreement with government, the employer is to find sufficient lodging for such servant on his farm or habitation ; nor is the prisoner to absent himself on any account, without leave from his employer. One great dif- ficulty in the government of this settlement is to prevent the escape of the convicts. Scarcely a ship leaves the port, wiihout some attempt being made ; and the failure of one is only the commencement of another. Very severe is the penally for carrymg prisoners away whose terms o transportation have not expired. In 1809 the master of a vessel was fined £800 for having contravened the port orders, by secreting three convicts. The usual method of payment in this colony is by the barter of one com- modity for that of another. Spirits, tea, sugar, and tobacco, are in greatest demand ; and next to these, the manufactures and productions of the mother country. These articles are received in exchange to the great advantage of the seller. There is scarcely any specie in circulation. The most common money, if such it may be called, is the notes of- hand of individuals, which, however respectable, as in some instances may be the credit of the drawers, is very inconvenient to adventurers, who can Stay only a certain time, and cannot expect to circulate such notes beyond 396 • VOYAGES RdUNO THE Xl'ORLD. the colony. There is, however, a good quantity of copper coin intcircu- lation, which passes for double its value. The Calcutta having completed her repairs and cargo, the captain and Mr. Turnbull embarked on board that ship, on the evening of the 16th of March, 1804, in very ill health, brought on by a course of hardships and fatigue. And on the following day bade adieu to this settlement, where, from party divisions and the bad habits of the convicts, it requires some discreiion in a stranger to steer clear of offence. On the 27tb of April rounded Cape Horn. On the 22d of May arrived oft' the harbour of liio Janeiro, in latitude 22 degrees 54 minutes south, and longitude 42 degrees 43 minutes west. At length, after an absence of four years and twenty- one days, the long-lost shores of Albion made their appearance. Two days after they anchored at Spithead, in the midst of a fleet of ships, the de- fence and just pride of their country. 'CAPTAIN KRUSENSTERN.— 1803-6. On the 7th of August, 1802, Captain Krusenstern was appointed t» the command of an expedition preparing for the north-west coast of America ; but it was not until February, 1803, that two ships, one of 450 tons, the other of 370 tons, had been purchased, for £17,000 sterling, in London. In addition to this sum, their repairs had cost £.5,000. The first of these two vessels was called Nadeshda, or the Hope, the other the Neva ; the former commanded by himself, the latter by Captain Lisianskey. M. de Resanoft" embarked in the Nad-ishda, as ambassador- extraordinary to the court of Japan. Valuable presents were prepared to secure the favour of the monarch and his ministers ; and, to effect this with the greater certainty, some Japanese, who, in 1796, were captured in the Aleutian Islands, such of them, at least, as had not embraced the Christian religion and wished to return home, were to be conveyed back from Irkutsk, the place of their confinement. On the 5th of June, 1803, the ships destined for the voyage arrived at Cronstadt. On the 7th of August, at nine in the morning, they sailed. On the 26lh of September crossed the meridian of Greenwich ; soon after saw St. Ann's, the ca.stera point of the entrance to Falmouth, and Pendennis Castle, which is the westernmost. At eight o'clock anchored in the Carreck road. The wind was now favourable, and they waited with considerable im- patience for M. Resanoir, wlio, at length, arrived at Falmouth early in the morning of the 5th. The same day they sailed from Carreck road. On the 19th anchored in Santa Cruz, Teneritfe. About twelve at noon, on the 27ih, they weighed with a pleasant southerly breeze. On the 6th of November, at daybreak, perceived the Island of St. Antonio at the dis- tance of from twenty-five to twenty-eight miles. During the whole time that the trade wind lasted they were accompanied by an infinite number of bonitos, and harpooned some of them almost daily. They made a fresh and palatable dish for the people. They caught but one shark, part of which was eaten, although it was not so good as a bonito. The Japanese, however, ate the head, and seemed to relish it much. At daybreak, December 11th, saw the Island of Frio, which lies near Cape Frio, and is easily distinguished by a deep valley which divides the island into tv»o equal parts. They now held a course directly for St. Catharine'*, the depth of the road of which diminishes gradually to five fathoms, in whiftk CAPTAIN- KRUSENSTERV. 307 ■oundings they anchored at five o'clock in the evening of the 2lsi of De- cember. The town, which is very pleasantly situated, consists of one hundred ill-constructed houses, and is inhabited by two thousand or three thousand poor Portuguese and negro slaves. The governor's house and the bar racks are the only buildings distinguished by their appearance above thi rest. They were, at this time, building a church, which in many Catho lie countries is thought more of than either hospitals or any othe/ nsefn. building. On the main, as well as in the island, the soil is remarkable fruitful. E.Kceilent coffee and sugar are cultivated here. The ruin is not equal to that of Jamaica ; experience convinced them that it improves by age and travelling, and yields then in nothing to the rum of Santa Cruz. Bui as foreign ships are only allowed to purchase for ready-monev, and none of the inhabitants of this government are jjcrmitted lo send their produce to Europe, the prospect of selling it falls entirely to the ground. Where the market is overstocked, industry must n;iturally be checked ; and they only cultivate, therefore, sufficient for their own use, and to enable them to send yearly one or two small vessels, of al)out seventy to eighty tons, to Rio de Janeiro, to barter inland productions against Euro- pean goods ; for the inhabitants of these parts receive only from Rio de Janeiro the most indispensable articles of life. On the 22d of January the Neva received a new foremast, and on the 25th a mainmast. Day and night the crews of both ships were employed in getting her ready for sea. On the 2d of February the ambassador came on board, accompanied by the governor and several of his olHcers. The guns of all the three forts fired the moment the boat hove in sight. On the 26th of February had sight of the whole coast of Staten Land, trending from south to south-east, at a distance of from thirty-five to forty miles. The land formed nearly a straight Ime, lying east and v,fe3t, and appeared to consist entirely of pointed hills, separated from each other by deep hollows, and cut sharp off by the sea. At eight o'clock, in the morning of the 3d of March, four weeks after their departure from St. Caiharme's, they doubled Cape Horn. On the 2ith, so high a wind arose at north-north-cast, Teering to north-north-west, with lofty waves and foggy weather, that they lost sight of the Neva. Ac daybreak, on the 6th of May, saw Fetugu I.sland, one of the Marquesas, distant from thirty-five to thirty-eight miles. This island is lofty, but is not of a great circum- ference ; it consists of a single high, and at the summit almost flat rock, with a gentle induration from north to south. On the northernmost point is to be perceived, though not very distinctly, a division forming two hills. About five in the afternoon perceived Nukahiwa wrapped in fog, which prevented their forming any correct judgment of its distance. At eleven o'clock next, day they perceived to the westward a canoe rowing off; it had an out-rigger, and was paddled along by eight Indians : they were much struck by a white tlag it had hoisted, a token of peace that led them to expect some European on board of it ; their expectations were soon confirmed. There was an Englishman in the boat, who at first had quite the appearance of one of the islanders ; his dress being entirely in their fashion, consisting merely of a girdle round the waist. He showed the certificates of two Americans, (to whom he had been of assistance during their stay here, particularly by procuring them wood and water,) in which it was attested that he ha-d conducted himself well ; and he offered his service, which they readily accepted, being glad to procure so good an interpreter, by whose assistance they hoped to obtain some par* am 398 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. ticular information about this almost unknown island. This Englishman, whose name was Roberts, told them that he had been seven years upon the island, and two years previously in that of Santa Christina ; that he had been put on shore on the latter out of an English merchant-ship, the crew of which had mutinied against their captain, and could not prevail upon him to join their parly ; and in Nukahiwa he had lately married a relation of the king's, by which he acquired great consideration ; so that it would be very e:isy for hiin to be of assistance to ihem. At the same time he warned them against a Frenchman, who had deserted from an English merchant-ship, and had likewise resided here for some years. Thfs Frenchman he described as his bitterest enemy, who omitted nothing to blacken him in the eyes of the king and the islanders, and had often, he added, made attempts against his life. Here, too, the innate hatred between the French and Enylish ap|)eared. Not content to disturb the peace of the whole civilizbu world, even the inhabitants of the lately- discovered islands of "this ocean must feel the influence of their rivalship without so much as knowing the origin of it. At noon anchored in Port Anna Maria; tne small Island of Mutanoe, which forms the western side of the entrance, bearing south-west thirty degrees, and Mattau, on the east side, nearly south. They had scarcely let go their anchor, when the ship was surrounded by several hundred of the inhabitants, who brought cocoa nuts, bread fruit, and bananas, for sale. The only things they could give them in exchange were pieces o( old iron hoops, four or five inches long, with which they had supplied both ships for this purpose while at Cronstadt. Such a piece was usually the price of five cocoa nuts and three or four of the bread fruit ; but though they seemed to set a very high value on these, axes and hatchets were the chief objects of their wishes. They showed a childish joy on receiving even a small piece of iron hoop, and usually evinced their satisfaction by a loud laugh, displaying their newly- acquired riches with an air of triumph to their less fortunate companions, who swam round the ship. This expression of pleasure was perhaps a proof of the little opportunity which ihey have hitherto had of procuring this valuable metal ; and, indeed, they collected from the account of Roberts, that only two small American merchant-ships had touched here in the space of seven years. At four in the afternoon the king and his suite came on board. His name was Tappga Kettenowee. He was a very strong, well-made man, with a thick and extremely fat neck, from forty to forty-five years of age. His body was tattooed, with a dark colour approaching to black, so com- pletely, that it even extendpd to spots on his head, from which his hair had been cut away. He was in nowise to be distinguished from the lowest of his subjects, being, with the exception of the tschiabu,* entirely naked. The captain led hiin to his cabin, and gave him a knife and a piece of red cloth about twenty ells long, which he immediately bound round his loins. To his suite, consisting chiefly of his relations, he also made some presents, although Roberts advised him not to be so generous, as not one of them, not even the king, would ever make any return for them At sunset all the men without exception went on shor« ; but about one hundred females still remained near the ship, round which they had been swimming during five hours. In this time they had made uso of every art in their power to declare the object of their visit, nor could * Tschiabu is the girdle which the savages wear round their waist ; in the Sandwich isles it is called maro. CAPTAIN KRUSENSTERN. 399 they doubt that their wishes were understood, since neither their panto- mime nor their altitudes could be mistaken. At ten o'clock next day, accompanied by the ambassador and most of the officers of the ship, the captain went on shore. Although, from the friendly footing on which they stood with the king and his relations, and the perfectly unsuspicious disposition of the islanders, they had every reason to calculate upon an amicable reception, it was prudent, and in- deed necessary, not to appear otherwise than well armed. Tfiey there- fore took a boat besides the barge, of which all the men, as well as the officers, were armed, the former with a brace of pistols and a sabre, and six of them with fire-arms. The Englishman and Frenchman acted a3 interpreters. A vast concourse of people of both se.Kes were collected on the beach, but the landing, owing to the heavy surf, was not effected without difficulty. Although neither the king nor any of his relations were among these people, they conducted themselves with great decency and respect. After they had examined the water and found it good, they directed their course toward a house not far from the beach, where the king was waiting to receive them. About 500 paces from this house, the king's uncle, who is at the same time his step-father, and is here al- ways called the king's father, came to meet them. He was an old man of seventy-five years of age, yet seemed to enjoy perfect health. His eye was very brilliant, and the features of his countenance displayed the markn of an intrepid and determined character. He was one of the greatest warriors of his time, and was now suflfering from a wound on his eye, over which he wore a bandage. In his hand he held a long staflF. with which he endeavoured, but in vain, to keep back the crowd. He took Krusenstern by the hand, and led him to a long narrow building, in which the king's mother and all his relations of her sex were seated in a row, and appeared to be expecting them ; and thev had scarcely en- tered the precincts of this building, when the king likewise came, and welcomed them with much familiarity and friendship. The people here stood still, and separated in two bodies, the king's dwelling being tahbu. The captain was forced to sit down in the middle of the royal ladies, who all examined him with a great deal of curiosity, holding his hand by turns, clasped within theirs, and only dropping it to examine his clothes, the embroidery of his uniform, hat, &;c. Notwithstanding all their exertions, they could not succeed in procuring hogs. In three days they had got but two, of which one was a present made in return for a parrot, and the other received in exchange for a hatchet. On the 10th of May received word from the shore that a three- masted ship was visible from the hills ; and as they imagined that this ship must be the Neva, immediately sent a boat with an officer to bring her into the bay. Captain Lisianskoy said, that he had wailed some days at Easter Island in the hopes of finding them there ; that strong westerly winds had prevented him from anchoring, but that he had sent a boat to Cook's Bay, to procure some bananas and potatoes from the natives. A misunderstanding now taking place, the two captains set oflf at eight o'clock, having sent their long-boat at seven for water. They land- ed, accompanied by twenty men under arms, and their own party consisted of more than twenty persons all armed, while the crews of the two long- boats, both of which were fitted with a couple of one-pounder swivel guns, consisted of eighteen men under the command of two officers. They might therefore have bid the whole island defiance, io case of any 400 VOYAfiES nOTTNb THE WORLD. hostile attempt against them, but nobody appeared on the beach at theii landing. The king met them about 100 paces from his dwelling, whith- er, after a hearty welcome, he accompanied them. The whole family was assembled there, and seemed very much rejoiced at their visit ; in- deed, they had reason to be so, for they received presents from every one of the party, and the queen expressed particular satisfaction at a. small looking-glass which was given to her. They asked the king what had induced him to spread a false report, which had well nigh destroyed the harmony that had hitherto existed between them, and might have led to consequences not likely to have proved to his advantage. He said, that he had never feared they should use him ill ; but that the French- man had told him Krusenstern would put him in irons without fail unless hogs were brought on board ; and this he had believed. They soon set out on their return to the boa's ; but could not, however, withstand the request of the friendly Roberts, to visit his house ; nor did ihey regret the little round they were obliged to make in order to get there. It was built after the fashion of the island, was quite new, and stood in the midst of a wood of cocoa trees. Upon one side flowed a small stream, and upon the other, in the middle of a rock, was a spring of mineral water. They all seated themselves round his house on the rocks, which formed the banks of the rivulet, and refreshed themselves in the shade of the lofty cocoa trees, after their walk, which, owing to the extreme heat, had greatly fatigued them. About twenty of the islander3 were busied throwing down cocoa nuts from the trees, which others cleared of the husks and broke with great skilfulness. The kernel quieted the hunger they began to feel, and quenched their thirst with the fine cold milk, which was extremely refreshmg Roberts's wife, a pretty young woman, of about eighteen years of age, seemed in some measure to have departed from the custom of her country, and very much to her advantage, for she had not rubbed her body over with cocoa oil, which, although it gives great lustre to the skin, produces a very powerful smell. The group of VVashington Islands was discovered in the year 1791 by Captam Ingraham, of the American merchant-ship Hope, of Boston, in his voyage from the Mendoza Islands to the north-west coast of Ame- rica. A few weeks afterward they were again seen by Marchand, ia the French ship Le Solide. But the fact is, they all belong to the group of the Marquesas, discovered by Mendana, in 1595. The Nukahiwers are invariably of a large stature and well made ; they are very muscular, with a long handsome neck, have a great regu- larity of countenance, and an air of real goodness, which was not belied by their dealings ; but when we consider the cruelties of which these men are capable, the prejudice in their favour, which the beauty of their person is very likely to create, soon vanishes, and their own countenance seems to indicate nothing but apathy. An animated eye none of thena possess. By tattooing their bodies very much and rubbing them with a dark colour, they acquire a black appearance ; otherwise, their natural colour is clear ; at least, that of the boys and women who were not tat- tooed was so ; nor do they differ very much from the colour of the Europeans, being only rather more yellow. Among the very handsome people of this island, they observed two in particular, who excited the admiration of them all. The one was a great warrior of Tayo Hoae, and, at the sanie time, what, in the la.iguage of tne countrv, is called Fire-lighter to the king ; his name was Mau-ha-u. and he was perhapt »ne of the handsomest men that ever existed ; he was six feet two inches i CAPTAIN KRUSENSTERN. 401 high, and every part of his body perfectly beautiful. The other was Bauting, king of the vale of Schegua, wlio, notwithstanding his age, for he certainly was not less than fifty, was still extremely handsome. The women all looked well, at least nothing could be said against their coun- tenances. A well-proportioned head, a face rather round than long, a large sparkling eye, blooming colour, very good teeth, curled hair, which they ornamented with a white band in a manner very becoming to them all, and the remarkably clear colour of their bodies, may perhaps entitle them to a preference over the inhabitants of the Sandwich, Society, and Friendly Islands. A very important member of the royal family is the fire-maker ; his duty consists partly in being always near the king's person to e.xecute his orders : but the business wherein his master generally employs him is of a nature perfectly characteristic of the monarch of Nukahiwa. On quitting his house for any time, his fire-maker does not accompany him, but must, in every sense, represent his person with the queen, who finds in him a second husband during the absence of the first. He is the guardian of her virtue, and his reward the enjoyment of that which he has to protect. The kings of Nukahiwa probably have a notion that it is better to share with one, what would otherwise be divided among several ; but perhaps the duty of fire-maker is only a royal lu.xury with him. Ther herculean Mau-ha-u filled this post near the queen of Tayo Hoae ; but he certainly did not merit the confidence of his sovereign, for he appeared to be a very bad guardian of the morals of his wife. It may easily be imagined that a people who find pleasure in eating human flesh, will frequently wage war with their neighbours to procure some of this delicacy, although there should be no other sufficient reason for it ; and, in their art of war, there is a perfect similarity between the character of these savages and of wild beasts. They seldom meet in large parties in the field, but their usual mode of warfare is to be con- stantly watching for, and secretly seeking to butcher their prey, which they devour on the spot. He who evinces the greatest skill in these arts, who can lie the longest on his belly perfectly motionless, who can breath the lowest, run the swiftest, and spring with the greatest agility from one precipice to another, acquires no less reputation among his comrades than the brave and powerful Mau-ha-u. In all these attainments the French- man particularly excelled, and he since frequently amtised them with a relation of his exploits, and of the numbers whom he had slain in this mode of warfare ; entering into a particular detail of all the circumstances. But he assured them, and even Roberts, his enemy, did him the justice to acknowledge, that he had never eaten human flesh, always e.tchanging his victims for hogs. It is with the natives of the neighbouring valleys, such as Home, Schegua, and Hotlyschewa, that those of Tayo Hoae wage a continued warfare, as well as with the inhabitants of another valley far inland. The warriors of Home, whose number is about 1000, have a name peculiar to themselves, tai-pihs, which signifies warriors of the great ocean ; with the.se tai-pihs the people of Tayo Hoae do not carry on war by sea, but merely by land. The son of Kettenowee is married to the daughter of the king of the tai-pihs ; and as she joined her hus- band by water, the sea which divides these two valleys is tahbu, that is to say, must not be contaminated by any blood. ^ Whenever one of the high priests of the valley dies, three human bodies must be sacrificed to him. These are never chosen from among the people to which the priest belonged, but must be taken from some of 34* 402 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD the neighbours, and several canoes are immediately despatched to procure them. Roberts was able to give but very little insight into the religious opinions of his new countrymen, probably because their ideas are but confused upon this head ; although, perhaps, he had not troubled himself to obtain any knowledge of them. The following he described as the usual funeral ceremonies, in which the spirit of their origin cannot be mistaked : After the corpse is washed, it is laid upon a platform, both being covered over with a piece of entire new stuff, and the next day the family of the deceased gives a grand feast, inviting their best friends and relations. To these, at which the priests must always be present, the women are on no account allowed admittance ; they produce their whole stock of hogs, (seldom eaten but upon these occasions,) of tarra root, and of bread fruit ; and, as soon as the guests are assembled, they cut of the hog's head to propitiate the g jds, and obtain for the deceased a safe and peaceable passage through the lower regions. This gift, which the priest takes possession of, is secretly devoured by him, and he only leaves a small piece of it under a stone. The friends or nearest relations of the deceased must then watch for some months over the corpse, and rub it constantly with cocoa oil, to prevent putrefaction. By this continued application it becomes hard as a stone, and quite incorruptible. Twelve months after the first feast, a second equally extravagant meal is given, to thank the gods for having permitted the deceased to arrive safe in the other world. After this the corpse is broken into pieces, and the bones are packed in a small box, made of the wood of the bread fruit tree, and carried to the moral or burial-place, where no woman is allowed to ap- proach under pain of death. Roberts, although he appeared to be an enthusiast and of no settled character, was a man of stiorg understanding, and a good man. The worst that his bitter enemy, the Frenchman, could say against him, was, that he evinced no skill in stealing, and therefore was in constant danger of dying of hunger. He had, however, by degrees acquired that esteem from tlie savages, which reason must obtain from stupidity, and he had more influence over them than any of their most distinguished warriors. To the king he had become partiorilarly necessary, and, no doubt, he would effect more good than the missionary Crook, who remained for some time upon this island, was able to perforin ; for the latter had no other idea than that of converting the Nukahiwers to Christianity, without recollect- ing that it was first necessary to make them men ; for this purpose Roberts appears more proper, as well on account of the example he aliorded and of his activity, as tlie esteem which they universally bore him, than either Crook or any other missionary whatever. He has built a very neat house, and possesses a piece of land, which he cultivates with care and diligence ; and he never fails, where it can be done, of introducing improvements before unknown to them. From his own ac- count, he led a happy independent life, and was only troubled by the thoughts of being surrounded by cannibals, for which reason he was par- ticularly fearful of the ne.'ct war. They offered to convey him to the Sandwich Islands, from whence he would easily find an opportunity of getting to China, but he could not prevail on himself to quit his wife, who during their stay bore him a son, and it is probable he will end his days in Nukahiwa. The information with regard to the population of the island is drawn certainly from a very arbitrary estimation. But where no positive account fan be adduced, anything even approaching the truth becomes of value. CAPTAIN KRUSENSTERN, 403 Tayo Hoae, according to Roberts, can send 800 warriors against its enemies ; Home, 1000 ; Schegua, 500 ; Mauday has 1200 ; Hott>'schewa, to the south-west of Tayo Hoae, and another valley to the north-east, have each 1200. These numbers Roberts mentioned at random, havintr no positive information on the subject, but believing, he said, that they were rather below than above the mark. The warriors, therefore, atnount to 5,900 ; and if we take three times that number for the women, children, and old people, which is not too little, considering that their marriages are very unproductive, the whole amount of the population is 17,700, or, in round numbers, 18,000. The two Europeans, who had both resided here for several years, agreed in their assertions, that the natives were a cruel intractable people, and, without even the exception of the female sex, very much addicted to cannibalism. They described, as eye-witnesses, the barbarous scenes that are acted, particularly in times of war ; the desperate rage with which they fall upon their victims ; immediately tear off their head, and sip their blood out of the skull with the most disgusting greediness, com- pleting in this manner their horrible repast. In times of famine the men butcher their wives and children and their aged parents ; they bake and stew their flesh, and devour it with the greatest satisfaction. Some years ago an American merchant-ship put into Port Anna Maria, and the cap- tain, who was a Quaker, suffered his people to go on shore unarmed ; but the natives no sooner perceived their defenceless condition, than they assembled in order to attack and drag them into the mountains. Roberts succeeded, with the greatest difficulty, and with the assistance of the king, to whom he represented the treachery of their conduct and the consequences it would infallibly bring upon the whole island, in rescuing them out of the hands of these cannibals. On the I8th of May they set sail, in very bad weather, from the Bay of Tayo Hoae, or Anna Maria. On the 7th of June, at half-past eight, paw land, and immediately perceived it to be Owaihi, distant about thirty- six miles, bearing north-west, vet could not distinguish Mowna Roa. After standing in to about six miles from the shore, put the ship about, and steered along the coast under nothing but topsails, heaving-to as soon as they saw any canoes put off. Their cargoes, however, did not in the least answer expectation. Some potatoes, half a dozen cocoa nuts, and a small sucking-pio, were all they were able to procure out of six canoes ; and these they did not obtain without ditficulty and at a verj' high price, as the venders would take nothing but cloth in payment, and they had not a yard on board to dispose of. This unfortunate circumstance made Kruaenstern determine upon loosing no more time, and on quitting the coast immediately for Kamtscbatka, where he should arrive without fail about the middle of July. Ca|)tain Lisianskey, whose time was not of equal consequence to him, resolved, on the other hand, to run into Kara- kakooa Bay for a few days, and then continue his voyage to Kodiac. At daybreak, July 14, saw to the north a high mountainous land, which, from its direction, must have been Shipunskoy-noss About eleven next day- ran into Awaisha Bay, and at one anchored in the harbour of St. Peiei and St. Paul, after a very good passage of thirty-five davs from Owaihi. They did not find the Governor of Kamtscbatka at the harbour of St Peter and St. Paul, his usual residence being at Niznei Kamtskchatk-ji, about 700 wersts from thence. On the 12th of August he arrived, ac- companied by his younger brother, who acted as his adjutant, and by Captain Feodoroff aud sixty men, whom he had brought with him at ihs \04 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. ,equestof M. de Rcsanoff, and it was settled that they should sail in a »eek after his arrival. On the 29th of August the ship was quite ready ( n sea, and on the 30th left the harbour of St Peter and St. Paul. About lOon, September 30lh, the weather assumed an appearance that left no ,'oubt of what would soon follow. The waves ran mountains high from '.he soulh-east ; the sun was of a dead pale colour, and was soon conceal- rd! behind the clouds, which flew wiih rapidity from the same quarter; .a■\l^ the wind, which increased gradually, rose by one o'clock to such a lui^^'ht as to prevent their taking in their topsails and courses without the [i/ia'.est difFiculty and danger, fhe tackle, though almost all new, mostly gi '\\^ way. About three o'clock in the afternoon the storm had increased to ,M V \i a degree as to rend all the storm-sails, the only ones set. Nothing coaV ..(^ual the violence of the gale. Much as they had heard of the ty- phoiA (.'H the Chinese and Japanese coasts, this exceeded all expectation. It w. 1, ll f.\ll within the province of the poet to describe it properly. Abouc y.x o'clock, October 10th, saw the land of Japan, bearing west- north -l-vvt, diitant nearly forty-five miles. The country in general ap- peared t.i b-i very mountainous, and the hills, among which were some very Icfi^ \ \ \i'.s, were in double and sometimes in three and four rows. A short lut > before sunset, on the 5lh of October, as they sailed parallel with the <,ei h-west coast of Satzuma, saw in the north-west a high land looking likv iIl island, which they afterward learned was the Island of Meacsima. I'liB land that surrounds Satzuma Bay is very mountainous, and a high }i \ 1 is jiarticularly distinguishable to the northward, upon which runs a In? of mountains of a wavy form, having a high peak in the centre. '.?.■< U'le north-westward of these there is a double peak, ad- joining to a tvch, after putting some questions, immediate- ly returned; nearly two Vn.ns after another boat came, and continued with them until about half- j, \>t five, when ihey came to an anchor at the entrance of Nangasaki Bay. Every one knows the ii •• v'-ing jealousy which is observed toward strangers in Japan ; the Ilusiur^ bind no right to expect a more favoura- ble treatment than other nationj ^ ret, as they had an ambassador on board, who was sent merely with assLYcn^.es of friendship, by the monarch of a powerful empire, bordering upco vhv'se people so suspicious in their poli- tics, they hoped not to be received u.^ll^v,^urably. Although they expected to be allo.ved more liberty than the L'ucch enjoy here, they found them- selves greatly mistaken. The first p.'o M of their jealousy was evinced in their takmg from them all their powdtv .u 1 fi.'e a-ira, evQn tci the fowling- pieces belonging to the officers, among vl.xS '\ n*. -f m.i v' considerable value ; and it was not until after four rckVS ' •, <»»f*9* »>^ro*tie» and representations that these latter were r<.tvv \ \ V nid. As soon as any boat put off from the ship for Kibatsch, for so this pro- menade was called, a fleet of ten or fifteen vessels immediately put them- selves in motion, surrounding the boat on all sides, and in this sanio manner it was conducted back again. The acquaintance formed on the first day of their arrival with the cap- tains of the Dutch ships made a continuation of their intercourse very desirable, bat the Russians were never allowed to visit them, nor was any Dutchman permitted to go on board their ship. When the Dutch ships sailed, they were ordered upon no account to send a boat otf to them ; and when Krusenstern wished Captains Musquetier and Belmark a happy voy- age, as they passed by, and inquired after their health, the only answer he received was a sign with the speaking-trumpet ; for which the chief of the Dutch factory apologized in a letter to the ambassador, saying, that the captains had been most positively forbidden to utter the least sound in answer to their questions. When the ambassador at length received permission to land, a considerable building was appointed for his residence ; but the seven towers of Constantinople were hardly so well guarded as their Megasaky, for this was the name of the Russian Dezima. The house was situated upon a neck of land so near the sea, that on the south and east sides the water at high-tide came close under the windows. When we say windows, this word can scarcely apply to a square space about a foot wide, provided with a double lattice-work, and which therefore ad- mitted but very little light into the room. They steered about four o'clock in the afternoon, in company with a Japanese boat, toward Nangasaki, and anchored about half-past five at the entrance of the harbour. The same evening, about ten o'clock, they anchored, received the visit of several magistrates, or banjos, as they are called in Japan, from Nangasaki, who, without waiting for an invitation, walked at once into the cabin, and seated themselves on the carpet. The attendants of these great men consisted of about twenty persons, among whom were several Japanese interpreters of the Dutch language. The opperhoofd, or director of the Dntch factory, Mynheer Van Doeff, was also brought along with the banjos ; but it was upward of an hour before he was permitted to come on board. He had scarcely entered the cabin with his suite, consisting of his secretary, the two captains of the Dutch ships that were here, and a Baron Pabst, when they were all obliged to remain during several minutes in an inclined posture, which they were called upon to do by a most insolent order from the interpreter: •' Mynheer Opperhoofd, compliment voor de Opper Banjos.''^ This sub- missive, and at the same time degrading, attention was not answered even by a nod. The compUments, as they are called, of the Dutch are some 406 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. thing between the bows of the Europeans and Japanese, which last consist in throwing yourself flat on the ground, touching the earth with your head, and crouching backward and forward according as you may be spoken to by your superior. ' The extraordinary respect with wliich the interpreters spoke to the ban- jos gave at first a very high idea of the character of these magistrates, whose rank they afterward learned was vei7 inconsiderable ; and that nothing but a commission from the governor imparts to them a temporary elevation. Whenever an interpreter had anything to translate, he cast himself on his hands and knees before the banjos ; and in this attitude, with his iiead hanging down, he made a hissing noise two or three times with his mouth, as if he were inhaling the air that surrounded his master. He then reported to the banjos, in a tone of voice scarcely audible, and mixed with repeated sighings, in short, broken sentences, the conversation which in Dutch had lasted several minutes. If a Japanese was addressed by a banjos he crouched to him, bowed his head to the ground, repeating constantly the monosyllable Eh i eh ! intending to signify, " I under- stand." The banjos always conducted themselves with great dignity; they never laughed, but occasionally showed their satisfaction by a smile. The clothing of the banjos, as well as of the interpreters, consisted ol a short upper garment with very wide sleeves, and under this a complete gown, reaching quite down to their feet, and fastened round the neck, and very similar to the female dress in Europe, except in being much narrower from the hips downward, so as to render it extremely difficult for them to walk ; indeed, they never walk but when they are absolutely compelled to do so. This is the usual dress of all the Japanese ; and the only difference between the clothes of the rich and of the poor is, that those of the former are made of silk, while the latter are clad in coarse ivoollen stuffs ; the upper garment is generally black, but there are some of different colours, and the lower dress is mostly of mixed colours. Every one has his family arms worked into his clothes, in different places, about the size of a half dollar, a practice usual to both sexes ; and in this manner any person may be recognised, and the family to which he be- longs easily ascertained. A young lady wears her father's arms until after her marriage, when she assumes those of her husband. The greatest mark of honour which a prince or a governor can confer upon any ono ,'s to give him a cloak with his arms upon it, the person having such a one wearing his own arms upon his under dress ; and the ambassador was frequently told how supreme a happiness would be conferred upon him, if the emperor was to present him with a garment bearing the im- perial arms. About four o'clock the next afternoon a present, consisting of fish, rice, and fowls, was brought on board from the governor. At midnight they weighed anchor, and were towed by about sixty boats to a new an- chorage, which was nearly two miles and a half off. They could not but admiie the order with which tiiis was effected ; the flotilla divided itself into five lines, of twelve or eighteen boats each, which kept their places so regularly, that they were not once broken ; and, notwithstanding a foul wind, they advanced at the rate of two miles an hour. About four in the morning they anchored in twenty-five fathoms water, and were in- stantly surrounded by thirty-two guard-boats, which formed a circle round the ship that no vessel was allowed to break through. Their arrival at Nangasaki was too important an event in Japan for the court not to be informed of the most trifling circumstances ; so that, CAPTAIN KRUSENSTERN. 407 titer each visit of the»interpreters to the ship, a courier was despatched with an account of every word and gesture, which frequpntly were of a nature to increase the suspicion and injure ihe pride of this ji\xlous and haughty people. They afterward learned that the cubo, or western em- peror, could determine nothini^on this momentous occasion without con- sulting the dairy ; and that he had even sent an embassy concerning them, to ascertain the wishes of tiiis important personage, whom the Japanese, although he has no executive authority, hold in the greatest veneration on account of his religious character. On the 17th of December the ambassador was conveyed on shore, for which purpose the Prince of Fisen sent his own boat, a vessel e.'cceeiling in size (being 120 feet long) and magnificence everything they had hitherto seen. Tne walls and ceilings of the numerous cabins were all varnished over in the handsomest manner, and the stairs, which were of red wood, were polished so highly as to have the appearance of lacker. The decks were covered with mats and the most costly carpets ; the curtains to the doors were of rich stuffs ; and the whole boat was hung with double rows of silks of different colours. As the ambassador stepped on board, the Russian imperial standard was hoisted and waved together with the flag of the Prince of Fisen ; and his guard, which accompanied him on board the vessel, took their place on the upper deck, close to the standard. On the 19th of February the ambassador received an official notice that the emperor had sent a person, attended by eight nobles, to Nangasaki, with full powers to treat with him. The interpreters did not exactly tell him that he would not now have any occasion to travel to Jeddo, yet this was easily to be inferred. The person whom the emperor had sent was of the highest rank, and, according to the expression made use of by the interpreters, was permitted to see the emperor's feet, though never to exalt his looks higher ; (an honour which even the Governor of Nangasaki could not boast ;) and it was not to be supposed that so great a character would be sent merely to accompany the ambassador to Jeddo. It was only, however, on the 12th of March that Skeyseima, the chief interpreter, acquainted the ambassador that he would not be permitted to travel to Jeddo ; and that the Japanese plenipotentiary would arrive in ten or fifteen days in Nangasaki, after which the ship must return to Kamtschatka as soon as she could possibly be fitted for sea. On the 30th of March the plenipotentiary arrived from Jeddo. The negotiations, with respect to the ceremonies of the audience, which were conducted with great warmth on both sides, commenced on the 3d of April, when it was concluded that the ambassador should pay the re- presentative of the Japanese emperor an European, and not a Japanese, compliment. On the 4th of April the ambassador had his first audience, to which he was conveyed in a large boat, adorned with flags and curtains. His suite consisted of five persons. Major Frederici, Captain Feodoroff, Lieu- tenant Koscheleff, Dr. Langsdorff, and Counsellor Fosse, besides a ser- geant, who carried the standard ; and he landed at a place to the north of Dezima, which the interpreters called Mussel Trapp. On this occa- sion merely an exchange of compliments took place, and a few insignifi- cant questions were put to him. The second audience was conducted with the same ceremonies, and here the negotiation terminated ; the necessary documents being delivered into his hands, which contained an order that no Russian ship should again come to Japan ; and the pre- •ents, and even the letter from the Emperor of I^ussia, were all refused. 408 VOVAGES ROUND THE WORLD. On the 16th of April the ambassador had his last audience of tho plenipotentiary ; immediately after which they began to bring the cannon, anchors, cables, and provisions on board. The satisfaction which the prospect of soon quitting Japan occasioned to the ship's company, was evinced in tlieir activity, and the working sixteen hours a day, to get the ship in readiness, • i • c At four ill the morning of the 17th of April, they hove in their first an- chor ; and at five the next morning sailed out of the bay, with a moderate Oreez'e at east-south-east, very glad to be released from so little honoura- ble confinement, which might have been the prelude to a harder fate. At daybreai?, on the 21st, perceived the land, and they held a course parallel with the Island of Tsus. The north extremity of this island at that time bore west by north, and a high flat mountain, not far from this point, south-west 85 degrees ; at one the north end of the island bore nearly west. On the 1st of M.^y perceived again the land of Japan bear- in^ east-north-east, at the distance of about eighteen or twenty miles : it had quite the appearance of an is'and, and they had no doubt of its being that of Iwo-sima, laid down in the charts nearly in 39 degrees, between Cape Sangar and Jacata Bay ; the next day they were convinced that it WHS no fsland, but a promontory projecting very much to the west, and distinguishable by a high mountain, with a rounded summit lying in the centre of it. In latitude 40 degrees 50 minutes and longitude 219 degrees 54 minutes perceived a town, with a port and several vessels lying at anchor ; the valley in which it was built appeared in the highest degree cultivated. Corn-fields, meadows in which a considerable quantity of cattle were "razing, and groups of trees, apparently more the work of art than of nature, beautified this district. About five o'clock four large boats put elf from the town, which then bore south-east, and rowed toward them in the greatest hurry. The number of people, of whom tliere were twenty- five or thirty in each boat, rendered their intention rather suspicious ; but though it was scarcely jjrobable that they could be hostile, considering the well-known strictness of the Japanese government, still they thought it prudent to load the guns and put the soldiers under arms. By six o'clock they overtook them ; they called to them in Japanese, requesting they would come on board ; but of this they appeared afraid. After having sailed twice round the ship, and considered it with the greatest attention, they hauled up their sails, and returned toward the town. On the 4th they were nearly opposite the middle of the Straits of Sangar, in which, even from the mast-head, they were unable to perceive any land ; but on both sides, to the eastward of Cape Sangar and Cape Nadeshda, were several promontories. The line of coast from Cape Nadeshda to Cape Sine.ko is north-west, the distance between the two being eighteen miles. Between these, in a large but open bay, is the town of Matumay, whose name the Japanese have extended to the whole Island of Jeso : it is of considerable size, and the residence of the governor ; but is the only town of any magnitude in the whole island. Before they had wea- thered a long point of Jeso, they perceived a boat with four of the natives rowing off. They continueil about a quarter of an hour alongside the ship, but could not be prevailed upon to come on board, and at length returned. However, they had scarcely cast anchor when several paid them a visit, who immediately came on board without the least signs of fear. As they came on deck they fell on their knees, laid their two hand* on their heads, passing them down their faces and their bodies, at the CAPTAIN KRtJSENSTERN- 409 same time that they made a low bow. On the 1 1th, at nine in the morning, 6ome Japanese arrived with an officer at their head, in a large boat, rowed by the natives of the island. The officer appeared extremely alarmed at their arrival, requesting most earnestly they would immediately sail from hence. The Japanese discipline exists even here, the farthest boundary of their possessions, in all its force. The officer could in nowise be per- suaded to accept a trifling present which the ambassador offered him, and even refused to take a glass of Japanese sakky, their favourite beverage. They now steered toward Aniwa Bay ; the west side of which is throughout very mountainous, and even now was covered in part with .«now. At ten, next morning, Krusenstern went with the ambassador on board a Japanese ship, where they were handsomely received, and treated with sakky, rice bread, and tobacco. The manner in which fish are caught here is a sufficient demonstration of their abundance ; as they do not even employ a net for this purpose, but dip for them with a pail du- ring the ebb. This article is so important, and is become so necessary to the poor people in the north of Japan, that the most absolute orders of their government could not prevent them from coming to Aniwa Bay to procure them, let the possessors of Aniwa be who they would ; and in all probability they might obtain them at a much more reasonable rate from Europeans than from their avaricious banjos. The Ainos, or natives of Jeso, are rather below the middle stature, being at the most five feet two or four inches high, of a dark, nearly black, complexion, with a thick, bushy beard, black, rough hair, hanging straight down ; and, excepting the beard, they have the appearance of the Kam- tschatdales, only that their countenance is much more regular. The women are sufficiently ugly : their colour, which is equally dark, their coal-black hair combed over their faces, blue-painted lips, an(l tattooed hands, added to no remarkable cleanliness in their clothing, do not give them any great pretensions to loveliness. The characteristic quality of an Aino is good- ness of heart, which is expressed in the strongest manner in his coun- tenance ; and, so far as they were enabled to observe their actions, they fully answered this expression. Their dress consists chiefly of the skins of tame dogs and seals ; but some were in a very different attire, which resembled the Parkis of the Kamtschatdales, and is, properly speaking, a white shirt worn over their other clothes. In Aniwa Bay they were all clad in furs ; their boots were made of seal-skins, and in these likewise the women were invariably clothed. On the 28lh they had a high wind from west-north-west, which in- creased toward evening to a storm, and, conceiving themselves to be but only a short distance from the Kuriles, lay-to under a reefed topsail and 8torm-sails. Next day the wind had become so moderate that they were enabled to carry all sail ; and at eight o'clock perceived, at a short distance, a high peak, which must have been the twelfth island, or that called Matua. The strait between these two, from the description of the Kuriles in Pallas's new northern editions, is thirty miles wide, and per- fectly safe ; but in Sarytscheflf's chart it is only twenty. At two in the afternoon of the 3d of June discovered the coast of Kamtschatka. The wind continued moderate from the south-east, and it was not until the 5th that they cast anchor in the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, forty eight days after leaving Nangasaki. On the 5th of July Krusenstern proceeded from this harbour to examine what was called Sachalin Island, but which is now known to be a penin- sula of Tartary. The narratiye affords only nautical details, of no general 35 410 Voyages rouKd thb worlk. interest whatever ; on the north part of it were found Tartar inhabitants, and on the south Japanese, each of which seem to have usurped their authority from the Ainos, or proper natives. On the 30t,h of August re- turned to Kamtschaika, where their speedy return excited some surprise and fear. The first prospect of St. Peter and St. Paul might raise in the mind of a person newly arrived, and ignorant of this Russian establishment, the idea of its being a colony founded a few years, but recently abandoned. Nothing is visible here that could at all persuade any one of its being in- habited by civilized people : not only Awatsha Bay, but the three ad- {'oining ones, are entirely forlorn and uninhabited ; nor is the beautiful larbour of St. Peter and St. Paul enlivened by a single boat. Instead ot this, the shores are strewed with stinking fish, among which a number of half-starved dogs are seen \. allowing and contending for possession. It is perfectly in vain that you look about, upon landing, for even one well- built house : m vain does the eye seek a road, or even a well-beaten path, along which a person may walk in safety to the town : no garden, no meadow, no plantation nor enclosure of any kind, indicative of the least cultivation ; the only things to be perceived are a few huts, mostly in a decayed state, Balagans and Jurten. Instead of bridges over the few small brooks that flow from the neighbouring mountains into the valley where the town stands, are merely planks laid across them, and these only passable with the greatest attention. Five or six cows feeding in the vicmity of the houses, and innumerable dogs lying about in holes, which they dig as resting-places and as a shelter against the flies, render it, if not impossible, at least extremely dangerous, to walk after dark. Those who have resided several years in the interior of the country concur in the opinion of the climate of the north, but especially of the middle provinces of Kamtschatka being infinitely superior to the sou- thern parts, particularly near Werchnoy and on the banks of the Kam- tschatka River, where the soil is invariably very fruitful. The length of the winter is no obstacle to cultivation ; it reigns equally long in the northern provinces of Russia and in Siberia, where the vegetation is so extremely lapid, that, notwithstanding the shortness of the summer, several spe- cies of corn are brought to perfection. In the interior of Kamtschatka many kinds of vegetables are cultivated, and every sort of corn ; but not » sufficiency for the use of the inhabitants and of the military. As to the climate of Kamtschatka, it is not so bad as it is represented ; that the Frequent fogs prevent any vegetables from coming to perfection is merely in excuse made by the mhabitants in order not to work, their indolence mowing no bound, the immoderate use of spirits rendering them incapa- ole of every exertion ; for the officers who are garrisoned there, and who nave laid out gardens for themselves, produce (with the exception of peas and beans) almost every kind of vegetable necessary for the table, and, indeed, in such quantity, that they were enabled to supply the Na- deshda with a considerable stock. If, therefore, the cultivation of these plants succeede in two or three gardens, it is very evident that every inhabitant, every soldier, might obtain a supply of cabbages, carrots, and, at any rate, of potatoes for his own use, sufficient in some degree to se- cure him against the scurvy, so common here in the winter months, from the total want of vegetable and animal food. The reason why this is not done is, that they do not begin to cultivate their gardens until the early part of July, so that the seeds do not come to anything before the end of that month. If the possessor of ^ garden, or, to speak more correctly, CAPTAIN iCRUSENSTBRN. 411 any industrious person, (for it is open to every one to cultivate as much land as he pleases,) were to begin to till his ground in May, there is no doubt but that he might furnish his table throughout the summer, not only with salads, radishes, cucumbers, &c., but also with cabbage, which they obstinately refuse to plant, and peas and beans in perfection. At an ostrog, or small village in Awatsha, near the mouth of the river of that name, the captain saw, in the month of June, a small garden in blossom, at the very same time that they were maintaining, at St. Peter and St. Paul, that it was still too early to plant ; because they have never been in the habit of doing so before the month of July. It may not be superfluous to say something on the mode of living of the Russians in Kamtschatka, which will account for the great mortality that reigns there. There is scarcely any difference between the life of the officer, the merchant, the priest, or the soldier ; the one may, indeed, possess more money than the other ; but as money is not held here in any estimation, this naturally produces a great equality in their rank, at least in their mode of living. Nor does this prejudice the discipline of the troops ; the soldier feels less than any one the distress that reigns in Kamtschatka, not only because the Russian soldier is accustomed from his infancy to forego the comforts of life, (and he only then feels the hardship of his lot when he does not meet with that indulgence which is due from the officer to him, or experiences any injustice in the service,) but because the soldiery there have an opportunity of enriching themselves which is not open to the officers, and there are at this time many who possess several houses. In the winter, for instance, when they are not upon duty, they are allowed to go sable-hunting, and a soldier will verj frequently earn from three to five hundred roubles in the course of tho season ; but as most of them are unmarried, and can purchase nothing but spirits for their money, their earnings are as speedily squandered. There can be no doubt that the married men, at least, would make a Oetter use of their money if any opportunity were afforded them ; for a freat change was very soon observable in the dress of the people of St. eler and St. Paul, especially of the women, after the arrival of the Na- deshda. How easy would it be to supply Kamtschatka with every neces- sary, by sending a ship there annually, direct from any Russian European port ; the prices of every article would not only fall several hundreds per cent., in the same manner as spirits fell shortly after their arrival from twenty to sixty roubles the stof, and su;^ar from seven roubles to one and a half the pound, but even the north-eastern part of Siberia might be sup- plied at a much lower price with a variety of foreign goods, from St. Peter and St. Paul itself, than it can by an overland carriage across the whole of Russia and Siberia. It may serve as a proof of what has been here asserted, that several articles put on board the Nadeshda by the Ameri- can company were sent from thence to Ochotsk for sale. The difficulty of conveyance from the European provinces of Russia to Ochotsk, and from thence to Kamtschatka, has hitherto been assigned as the reason why the inhabitants of this province are not only suffered to want all the comforts of life, but even many of the necessaries. Gin is the only article which the merchants never suffer to be wanted The propensity to strong liquors is greater there than at other places, and is besides more pardonable, as the merch.ints endeavour by every means to keep it up ; and a bout of drinking with some of their companions (which is seldom done at less expense than fifty roubles) is the only means which they have of disposing of their troublesome, but hard-earned, winnings. 413 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLfl. Bread and salt are two articles invariably possessed by the poorest beggar in Europe ; but in Kamtschatka, where, owing to the increased number of the military, the consumption of bread is very considerable, and the conveyance is so very difficult and expensive, the soldier obtains only half his ration in flour, and the other half in money, yet never to an amount sufficient to enable him to purchase it; for the merchant of Kamtschatka will not import flour, because it is frequently injured during the journey, by which means the cost is sacrificed, while, on ihe contrary, gin is always sure to produce a clear and immediate profit ; and flour has no established price at Kamtschatka, although it is generally estimated at ten roubles the pud. The soldier's pay is never sufficient to purchase it at this rate ; and it would be infinitely better for him if he received his flour in kind ; nor can it be imagined that there would ever be a superfluity of this article in Kamtschaika, not only because the soldier does not actually receive his customary schtschy and meat, but also be- cause the flour is very much injured by the length of the overland con- veyance in leathern skins, and the full delivery can never be baked. This is likewise the case with grits. Fish they never experience the want of, and during the summer season it affords them a wholesome and agreeable nourishment ; but in winter they are reduced to eat it in a dried state, (in which condition it is called jukula, in Kamtschatka,) and without anything to relish it ; and such diet, when long continued, cannot but be extremely injurious to health. The scarcity of salt is still greater than that of bread : on their arrival a few pounds of salt were considered as a valuable pre- sent ; and great as was their partiality for spirits, tliose who brought fish, berries, or game, were infinitely more thankful for a little of the former than when they rewarded their labours with gin, which they scarcely ever gave to them. If there were no want of salt, and it were sold at a just and reasonable price, the inhabitants would not be compelled to eat their fish in a dried state ; salt fish would at any rate prove an agreeable change ; and how many other occasions are there for this most necessary article. Every soldier receives a pound of salt monthly, but the Kara-' tschatdale gets none. In the vicinity of St. Peter and St. Paul there were two salt-pans, which once produced a sufficiency for the comsump- tion of whole of Kamtschatka, but they have both been suflfered to go ta ruin for some years past ; probably because the conveyance of the kettlea and other necessary articles, by land, was considered as too difficult. On their arrival a pailful of very bad gin cost 160 roubles, and a sto/ twenty. This price was established by the actual governor ; for, previous to his time, the merchants, whose avarice is unbounded, and who were well assured that the propensity to gin-drinking would not be diminished by any exorbitance of price, had already increased it to more than 300 roubles the pailful. The price of sugar is usually from four to five roubles the pound, but often rises to seven ; tobacco, five roubles ; butter and salt one and one and a half roubles the pound. Soap, candles, &,c., are seldom to be had under two roubles the pound. Many other necessary articles Bf housekeeping are in a like proportion ; but it is seldom that even the greatest necessaries are to be procured. Rum, brandy, wine, coffee, spices, vinegar, mustard, oil, rice, flour, butter, and other similar articles, which are to be met with in the poorest villages of Russia, are never im- ported for sale ; neither are any of those necessary for clothing, with the exception of some very coarse linen, silk handkerchiefs, and blue nankeen. The officers procure from Irkutsk the cloth and other things requisite for their uniforms, but always at a very ejpensive rate. Black bread, and CAPTAIN KRUSENSTERN. 413 fish dressed without sauce or spice, without salt, vinegar, or pepper, are the only provisions which the officers, as well as the men, are able, ibr a constancy, to set upon their tables. There is nothing a hardy soldier will not endure so long as he is in good health ; but if he falls sicks, to what a wretched, miserable, helpless condition is he reduced. No physician, no medicine, no reviving draught, nor strengthening diet, are to be pro- cured at St. Peter and St. Paul ; he cannot even struggle against death, which seizes him in this most painful condition. At St. Peter and St. Paul the number of horned cattle amounted to ten cows and, perhaps, as many young heifers ; there was, consequently, no butter, and very little milk. It would be extremely easy to support some hundred head there, as not only close to St. Peter and St. Paul, but on the banks of the Awatsha River, there is plenty of the finest grass, if there were a sufficiency of men to collect a quantity of hay equal to the support of so large a flock during a long winter, independent of the mili- tary, who, indeed, constitute the greater part of the inhabitants, and are so much employed in other works. The breeding of hogs is difficult, owing to the scarcity of corn ; but it would be easier to have sheep, goats, and poultry, the former requiring nothing but good hay. Although in the vicinity of St. Peter and St. Paul they met with no short delicate grass, there can be no doubt that these species exist in these parts. Most of the inhabitants suffer from scurvy throughout the winter. Of five people whom they had brought as passengers to Kamtschatka, and who had been in perfect health during the whole voyage, they found, on their return from Japan, only one in good health, the rest having suffered very much during the winter from this disorder. The prospect of any in- crease of the inhabitants of Kamtschatka was very much diminished, not only by the smallness of the number of the remaining Russians and Kam- tschatdales, but by that of the women bearing no kind of proportion to the men. At St. Peter and St. Paul, where the number of inhabitants, in- cluding the military, amounts to one hundered and fifty or one hundred and eighty persons, there are not twenty-five females. The Kamtschatdales never inhabit the towns built by the Russians, but live scattered about the interior of the country, in small villages, called ostrogs, of different dimensions. Since the last epidemic disorder, in the years 1800 and 1801, during which 5,000 Kamtschatdales perished, it is very rare to meet more than fifteen or twenty persons in an ostrog ; in many there are scarcely the lialf of this number, although there may be others where the population is more extensive. Such an ostrog is under the immediate command of a tayon, or chief, who is chosen from among the inhabitants, and whose character is similar to that of a starost, or elder, in the Russian villages. Under him he has an officer, who bears the title ofjessaul, and who, properly speaking, holds the executive authority of the ostrog, as the tayon does no more than deliver his orders to him. In the absence of the tayon the jessaul assumes his place, and the eldest Kamtschatdale in the ostrog takes upon him that of the jessaul. The tayon's power is considerable, since it even extends to the inflicting of corporal punishments, though these must never exceed twenty lashes. They generally select as tayon an active Kamtschatdale, who has dis- tinguished himself by his good conduct. His duly consists, besides the discharge of the internal regulations of his ostrog, in collecting Ihe best sables, which each Kamtschatdale pays annually as a tribute, and carry- ing them, sealed up, to the town, where they are examined in the presenc9 of certain magistratfia, «ad tased by a person authorized i^* the crown 4i4 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. The amount of the duties to be paid by the ostrog is then deducted from the value of the sables, and whatever there is exceeding it is paid in money to the tayon, who divides it proportionally among the inhabitants of his ostrog The annual taxes of the Kamtschatdnles amount, exclusive of the capitation tax, to about three roubles, which, however, are not paid in money, but in sables, in the manner above described. In the winter they are obliged to conduct travellers and couriers from one ostrog to another ; they supply the dogs of those who travel with jukula ; they also lodge the travellers ; this, however, they arc not obliged to do. This hospitable people has, of its own accord, engaged to lodge every traveller, and to feed his dogs without demanding any remuneration In every ostrog there is a supply of fish set apart for this purpose. In general, the governor and all officers keep dous, so that in this respect they are not burthensome to the Kamtschatdaloo. These people, in spite of their extreme poverty, are an example of honesty : in this respect it is altogether impossible to exceed them, and it is as rare to find a cheat among the Kamtschaidales as a man of property. Travellers, on their arrival in any ostrog, usually give their money, papers, and valuables, and even their stock of brandy, tea, sugar, tobacco, &c., into the hands of the tayon, and there is no instance of any one having been robbed to the smallest extent. On the 9th of October quitted St. Peter and St. Paul, and on the 20th of November, without any event of consequence, anchored at Macao, where, the 3d of December, they were joined by the Neva, with a cargo of furs from the coast of America. On the 9th of February they left Canton ; the ships separated the I5th of April, reaching St. Helena the 3d of May. August I9th, 1806, anchored in safety at Cronstadt, after an absence of three years and twelve days, without the loss of one man of the ship's crew, CAPTAIN FREYCINET.— 1818-1820. The Urania was fitted out at Toulon in the early part of 1817, and furnished with every article necessary for a long voyage ; she received a picked crew, and her officers were distinguished by the extent of their knowledge. Contrary winds obliged them to put into Gibraltar on the 11th of Oc- tober, and she did not arrive at Santa Cruz, in the Island of Teneriffe, before the 22il of the same month. On the 6ih day of December Cape Frio was observed, and its geogra- phical position verified. The Urania entered .'vio de Janeiro the same night, where she remained until the 29th of January. The passage from Kio Janeiro to the Cape of Good Hope was marked »y a melancholy event, which deprived M. de Freycinet of one of his tblest colleagues. M. Laborde, an officer of distinguished merit, an ac- curate observer, a good draughtsman, and who joined to these excellent qualities a character the most sociable, died in the flower of his age. The Urania remained in Table Bay from the 7th of March till the 5th of April, and from thence she sailed to Port Louis, in the Isle of France, where they arrived on the 5th of May. Port Louis, placed nearly in the same latitude as Rio de Janeiro, and at a distance of more than 100 degrees in longitude, was favourably «ituated for observations respecting the pendulum. Those were made ia M. DE FREYCINET. 415 detail, as well as experiments, the objects of which were to enlarge the study of magnetism, and of meteorology. A very considerable damage, which had torn off ihe copper-sheathing of the Urania, did not allow them to put to sea until the I6th of July. The corvette stopped only some days at the Isle of Bourbon to take in provisions, and then directed her course toward the coast of New Hol- land, the northern extremity of which was seen on the 11th of Sep- tember, 1818. The Urania coasted along at a moderate distance ; and having fallen in with Endracht's Land, she followed it until she arrived at the entrance of Sea-Dog's Bay, from whence, after a short stay, she sailed on the lUth of September, to the anchorage before the peninsula of Peron. An observatory was at first estabhshed on shore, and then they were employed in procuring, by means of distillation, water fit to be drank. Two stills had been shipped at Toulon for this purpose. Numerous de- fects, which it may probably be easy to remedy in other vessels, rendered almost null the products of the apparatus placed on board the corvette ; but that which was put up on shore gave, in sufficient abundance, water pleasant to drink, and in which they could discover no noxious quality. The Urania sailed on the 26th of Se))tember ; the intention of M. do Freycinet being to sail for Timor, in order to ascertain some points respect- ing its gecraphical positions, of which he had doubts. He consequently saded near the Isles of Dorre and Bernier, which he coasted along at a good distance to the eastward, and in shallow water ; when, the corvette having struck on a sand-bank, he was obliged to abandon the labour begun, and to bear off from the shore. This event had no disagreeable consequence ; the time passed at the anchorage on the bank was employed m exploring its figure and sounding ; and M. de Freycinet gave it the name of the Bank of Urania. The corvette proceeded on her course, and cast anchor in the Bay of Coupang, in the Island of Timor, after having coasted on the west side of the Isles of Liinas and Retti, which belong to that archipelago. The inhabitants of Coupang were then only busied in preparations for the war whicti the Dutch government was going to make on the Rajah, Louis d'Amanoebang. This circumstance rendered it difficult to purchase the provisions neces- sary to victual the corvette ; but it did not hmder the scientific operations, which were carried on with the greatest zeal, m spite of the excessive height of the temperature : at the observatory it stood, at times, at 133 degrees of Fahrenheit, while in the shade it was from 106 to 111. The Urania sailed from Coupang on the 23d of October, 1818, very badly provisioned, and with several men attacked with dysentery. Calms and contrary currents detained them a long time between Timor and Ombay. This was taken advantage of to visit the village of Bitoca : it is situated on the south coast of the latter of these islands ; has been, till now, little frequented by Europeans, and it is peopled by a warlike and ferocious race, some of whom are anthropophagites. Meanwhile, the number of dysenteric patients increased on board the corvette, and all the skill of M. Quoy, the surgeon, was not sufficient to overcome the influence of a devouring climate. The harbour of Coupang had furnished them with but few refreshments ; it became therefore neces- sary to take a new station at Timor, and accordingly the Urania anchored at Diely, the chief place among the Portuguese establishments on tho north coast of that island. 416 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. A most obliging reception was given to the expedition by Don Jose Pinto Alcoforado d'Azevedo e Souza ; and the corvette was abundantly provisioned, through his care, with everything that she wanted. Their slay here was only for five days, after which the Urania bent her course still along the coast of Timor, in order to get through the straits to the eastward of Vitters, by the channel that separates that isle from those of Kiffer and Roma. On the 29th of November they were in sight of Ceram and Amboyna, and stretching into the strait between the latter island and Bournu, they bent their course toward the Isle of Gasse, which they doubled to the eastward at a small distance, during a violent storm. A great number of isles were observed, among which the most remarkable are those of Damoter, Gilolo, and Guebe. Ill this passage the Urania fell in with several armed canoes belonging to the Kimalaha of Guebe. This prince came on board, and passed an entire day with them, during which his fine flotilla towed astern of the corvette. It was to the Isle Guebe that M. de Pavre was sent formerly by M. de Coetiva, to take drawings of the nutmeg trees, which have since multiplied so much in the Indian and American colonies. The Guebeans recollected that circumstance very well, of which they were themselves the first to speak ; and M. de Freycinet attributes to their former relations with the French the very particular amity which they testified toward him. The Urania, continuing her track, passed, on the 12th of December, the strait which separates the Isle of Mondo-^c from Gu6b6, and stretched to the eastward ; she ran some risk in the strait formed by the Isles of Rouib and of Balabalak, and by the Wyag Islands, where, during a calm, violent currents set upon shallows : but she was fortunately able to keep her anchorage, and to wait for such winds as permitted her to keep her way until she had got clear of that perilous situation. She cast anchor, on tlie 16th of December, at the Isle of Rawak, after having at a short distance coasted along the northern side of Waigion. An observatory was established on shore, and its position, in latitude -only H minutes south, was the most favourable for experiments with the pendulum which they could get under the equator. The period of this stay was employed in researches respecting geography and natural history. Two or three days before they sailed, they heard on a sudden the martial music of tom-toms, kettle-drums, &c. Some moments after there appeared, at the large point of the island, the fleet of the Kimalaha of Guebe, who, faithful to his promise, had come to pay the visit he had before announced. This little squadron presented a spectacle at once imposing and whimsical. The Guebean prince was accompanied by his brothers and sons, to the number of eight ; all, like himself, of good mien, and remarkable for their intelligence. They remained on board until the moment of the corvette's departure ; they gave, as presents to M. de Freyoinet, various curiosities of their country, and among others, hats made of straw interwoven with talc, worked with admirable art. Having sailed from Rawak on the 5th of January, 1819, the Urania stretched toward the Ayon Isles, which they saw on the 6lh and 8th of the same month. The dysentery continued still to torment the crew ; it was long before It was joined to fevers, one of the first victims of which was M. Labiche, the second lieutenant, an officer of great merit and of the most amiable disposition. This was the second loss of the kind during the voyage, and It was keenly felt. M. DE FREYCINET. 417 After having visited several of the Caroline Isles, which are not pointed But on the maps, and having received throughout the most friendly recep- tion from the islanders, M. de Freycinet arrived, on the 17th of May, in sight of the Isle of Guam, and cast anchor on the night of the same day in the roadstead of Humata. This delay, and that which the corvette made at Port San Louis, in the same island, restored health to the crew ; thanks to the generous eagerness with which the governor, Don Jos^ de Medinillo y Pineda, anticipated all the wants of the expedition, by pro- curing them refreshments and comfoPts of all kinds. M. de Freycinet appears to have collected, respecting the people of the Marianne Islands, information more extensive than that with which pre- ceding voyagers have enriched their accounts. He gives various details respecting their manners, language, and laws, as well as that singular government of which much has been said, and in which the women act an important part. Two months were employed in making these researches ; and at the same time they were occupied with those observations and experiments which formed the principal object of the expedition. M. de Medinillo had, during all this time, the kindness to provide the corvette abundantly with fresh provisions, to which he added provisions for the voyage, and for which he afterward refused to accept any reimbursement. The course of the Urania, from Guam to the Sundwich Islands, presents nothing remarkable. On the -oth of August, 1819, she made the Island. of Owyhee, and anchored in the Bay of Harahona i;i three days after. Tamahama, king of the Sandwich Isles, was dead ; his palace had been reduced to ashes, and almost all the hogs on the island had been slaugh- tered on account of his obsequies, according to the custom of the country, which was a real disappomtment in the reviciualling the corvette. Uiio Rio, the eldest son and successor of Tamahama, enjoyed at that time but a badly-established aurhrfr.v. The chiefs, compelled to submit to the arms of his father, raising extraordinary pretensions, caused him to dread an approaching war. He came with his wives and a numerous suite on board the Urania, on the occasion of the baptism of one of th* principal chiefs of the island. That ceremony was performed with much pomp by the Abb6 Quelen, chaplain of the vessel. The Sandwich Islands were, like the Marianne, the object of the assiduous researches of M. de Freycinet and of the officers under his command. Numerous observations were made in search of the magnetic equator and its inflexions, in the Great Ocean. On the 30th of August the Urania sailed from Port Jackson, passing through the islands of the Austral Poivnesia. By taking this track, the position of the dangerous Isle of Byron was rectified, as well as that of the Island of Pyletant, the most southerly of the Friendly Islands, and also that of Howe Island. A new island, surrounded by dangerous reefs, vvas discovered to the east of Tonga, which M. de Freycinet named Rose Island. The Urania anchored in Port Jackson on the 18th of November, 1819 ; jhe remained there till the 25th of December, and this interval was em- ployed, as at all the preceding stoppages, in scientific inquiries. M. de Freycinet speaks in this respect with gratitude for the assistance aflbrded to him by General Macquarie, the governor of the colony. On quitting Poit Jackson, the course of the corvette was shaped to pass between Van Dieman's Land and New Zealand. On the 7th of Jauuaiy, 1820, the southern extremity of the latter islands was doubled 418 VOYAGES nOUND THE WORLD. in sight of Campbell's Island. From that moment until nearing the coast of Terra del Fuego the winds were constantly favourable. The Urania reached 59 degrees of south latitude, and she found floating ice in the 54lh degree. On the 5th of February the coast of Terra del Fuego was seen in the neighbourhood of Cape Desolation ; the season was as frightful as the adjoining shores. In the impossibility of reaching Christmas Harbour, it became necessary to make for the Bay of Good Success, in the Straits of Le Maire ; but scarcely had the ijnchor dropped, when a furious storns caused the ship to drive. There was not a moment to be lost in cutting the cable and setting sail with all speed, to get out of the bay, and she skirted at a very short distance the rocks and breakers which lie upon ita north point. This tempest lasted two days, and drove the vessel considerably to tha northward, which determined M. de Freycinet to bear up for the Falkland Islands, in sight of which they arrived on the 14th of February, accord- ing to their reckoning, but the 13th according to European time, they having gained a day in circumnavigating the globe. The Urania was lost in consequence of striking on a sunken rock at the entrance of French Bay, in the Falkland Islands, when they wer» taken off by an American whaler, and taken first to Rio Janeiro and after- ward to Havre de Grace, where they arrived with most of the ro|lcctior.» made during the voyage, on the 13th of November, 1820 tas EKr. Ci-PTAIN KRU8ENSTERN. 409 eame time t^at they made a low bow. On the 1 1th, at nine in the morning, some Japanese arrived with an officer at their head, in a large boat, rowed by the natives of the island. The officer appeared extremely alarmed at their arrival, requesting most earnestly they would immediately sail from hence. The Japanese discipline exists even here, the farthest boundary of their possessions, in all its force. The officer could in nowise be per- tuaded to accept a trifling present which the ambassador offered him, and even refused to take a glass of Japanese sakky, their favourite beverage. They now steered toward Aniwa Bay ; the west side of which is throughout very mountainous, and even now was covered in part with snow. At ten, next morning, Krusenstern went with the ambassador on board a Japanese ship, where they were handsomely received, and treated with sakky, rice bread, and tobacco. The manner in which fish are caught here is a sufficient demonstration of their abundance ; as they do not even employ a net for this purpose, but dip for them with a pail du- ring the ebb. This article is so important, and is become so necessary to the poor people in the north of Japan, that the most absolute orders of their government could not prevent them from coming to Aniwa Bay to procure them, let the possessors of Aniwa be who they would ; and in all probability they might obtain them at a much more reasonable rate from Europeans than from their avaricious banjos. The Ainos, or natives of Jeso, are rather below the middle stature, being at the most five feet two or four inches high, of a dark, nearly black, complexion, with a thick, bushy beard, black, rough hair, hanging straight down ; and, excepting the beard, they have the appearance of the Kam- tschatdales, only that their countenance is much more regular. The women are sufficiently ugly : their colour, v^hich is equally dark, their coal-black hair combed over their faces, blue-painted lips, and tattooed hands, added to no remarkable cleanliness in their clothing, do not give them any great pretensions to loveliness. The characteristic quality of an Aino is good- ness of heart, which is expressed in the strongest manner in his coun- tenance ; and, so far as they were enabled to observe their actions, they fully answered this expression. Their dress consists chiefly of the skins of tame dogs and seals ; but some were in a very different attire, which resembled the Parkis of the Kamtschatdales, and is, properly speaking, a white shirt worn over their other clothes. In Aniwa Bay they were all clad in furs ; their boots were made of seal-skins, and in these likewise the women were invariably clothed. On the 28th they had a high wind from west-north-west, which in- creased toward evening to a storm, and, conceiving themselves to be but only a short distance from the Kuriles, lay-to under a reefed topsail and storm-sails. Next day the wind had become so moderate that they were enabled to carry all sail ; and at eight o'clock perceived, at a short distance, a high peak, which must have been the twelfth island, or that called Matua. The sirait between these two, from the description of the Kuriles in Pallas's new northern editions, is thirty miles wide, and per- fectly safe ; but in Sarytscheff's chart it is only twenty. At two in the afternoon of tiie 3d of June discovered the coast of Kamtschatka. The wind continued moderate from the south-east, and it was not until th^ 5th that they cast anchor in the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, forty eight days after leaving Nangasaki. On the 5th of July Krusenstern proceeded from this harbour to examine what was called Sachalin Island, but which is now known to be a penin» fula ol Tartary. The uariative affords only nautical details, of no genera) 35 410 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLC. interest whatever ; on the north part of it were found Tartar inhabitants, and on the south Japanese, each of which seem to have usurped their authority from the Amos, or proper natives. On the 30ih of August re- turned to Kamtschatka, where their speedy return excited some surprise and fear. The liist prospect of St. Peter and St. Paul might raise in the mind of a person newly arrived, and ignorant of this Russian estabhshment, the idea of its bemg a colony founded a few years, but recently abandoned. Nothitig is visible here that could at all persuade any one of its being in- habited by civilized people: not only Awatsha Bay, but the three ad- {'oining ones, are entirely forlorn and uninhabited ; nor is the beautiful larbourofSt. Peter and St Paul enlivened by a single boat. Instead ot this, the shores are strewed with stinking fish, among which a number ol half-starved dogs are seen w;.' lowing and contending for possession. It is perfectly m vain that you look about, upon landing, for even one well- built house : in vain does the eye seek a road, or even a well-beaten path, along which a person may walk in safety to the town ; no garden, no meadow, no plantation nor enclosure of any kind, indicative of the least cultivation ; the only things to be perceived are a few huts, mostly m a decayed state, Balagnns and Jurien. Instead of bridges over the few small brooks that flow from the neighbouring mountains into the valley where the town stands, are merely planks laid across them, and these only passable with the greatest attention. Five or six cows feeding in the vicinity of the houses, and innumerable dogs lying about in holes, which they dig as resting-places and as a shelter against the flies, render it, if not impossible, at least extremely dangerous, to walk after dark. Those who have resided several years in the interior of the country concur in the opinion of the climate of the north, but especially of the middle provinces of Kamtschatka being infinitely superior to the sou- thern parts, particularly near Werchnoy and on the banks of the Kam- tschatka River, where the soil is invariably very fruitful. The length of the winter is no obstacle to cultivation ; it reigns equally long in the northern provinces of Russia and in Siberia, where the vegetation is so extremely lapid, that, notwithstanding the shortness of the summer, several spe* cies of corn are brought to perfection. In the interior of Kamtschatka many kinds of vegetables are cultivated, and every sort of corn ; but not » sufficiency for the use of the inhabitants and of the military. As to the climate of Kamtschatka, it is not so bad as it is represented ; that the •frequent fogs prevent any vegetables from coining to perfection is merely »n excuse made by the inhabitants in order not to work, their indolence mowing no bound, the immoderate use of spirits rendering them incapa- ole of every exertion ; for the officers who are garrisoned there, and who nave laid out gardens for themselves, produce (with the exception of peas and beans) almost every kind of vegetable necessary for the table, and, indeed, in such quantity, that they were enabled to supply the Na- deshda with a considerable stock. If, therefore, the cultivation of these plants succeede in two or three gardens, it is very evident that every inhabitant, every soldier, might obtain a supply of cabbages, carrots, and, at any rate, of potatoes for his own use, sufficient in some degree to se- cure him against the scurvy, so common here in the winter months, from the total want of vegetable and animal food. The reason why this is not done is, that they do not begin to cultivate their gardens until the early part of July, so that the seeds do not come to anything before the end of that mouth, if the possessor of a garden, or, to speak more correctly, CAPTAIN KRUSENSTERN. 41 1 any industrious person, (for it is open to every one to cultivate as mucii land as he pleases,) were to begin to till his ground in May, there is no doubt but that he might furnish his table throughout the summer, not only v^'ith salads, radishes, cucumbers, &c., but also with cabbage, which they obstinately refuse to plant, and peas and beans in perfection. At an ostrog, or small village in Awatsha, near the mouth of the river cf that name, the captain saw, in the month of June, a small garden in blossom, at the very same time that they were maintaining, at St. Peter and St. Paul, that it was still too early to plant ; because they have never been m the habit of doing so before the month of July. It may not be superfluous to say something on the mode of living of the Russians in Karntschatka, which will account for the great mortality that reigns there. There is scarcely any difference between the life of the officer, the merchant, the priest, or the soldier; the one may, indeed, possess more money than the other ; but as monry is not held here in any estimation, this naturally produces a great equaiiiy in their rank, at leas-, m their mode of living. Nor does this prejudice tlie discipline of the troops ; the soldier feels less than any one the distress that reigns in Karntschatka, not only because the Russian soldier is accustomed from his infancy to forego the comforts of life, (and he only then feels the hardship of his lot when he does not meet with that indulgence which is due from the officer to him, or experiences any injustice in the service,) but because the soldiery there have an opportunity of enriching themselves which is not open to the officers, and there are at this time many who possess several houses. In the winter, for instance, when they are not upon duty, they are allowed to go sable-hunting, and a soldier will very frequently earn from three to five hundred roubles in the course of the season ; but as most of them are unmarried, and can purchase nothing but spirits for their money, their earnings arc as speedily squandered. There can be no doubt that the married men, at least, would make a better use of their money if any opportunity were aflbrded them ; for a freat change was very soon observable in the dress of the people of St. 'eter and St. Paul, especially of the women, after the arrival of the Na- deshda. How easy would it be to supply Kamtschatka with every neces- sary, by sending a ship there annually, direct from any Russian European port ; the prices of every article would not only fall several hundreds per cent., in the same manner as spirits fell shortly after their arrival from twenty to sixty roubles the stof, and sugar from seven roubles to one and a half the pound, but even the north-eastern part of Siberia might be sup- plied at a much lower price with a variety of foreign goods, from St. Peter and St. Paul itself, than it can by an overland carriage across the whole of Russia and Siberia. It may serve as a proof of what has been here asserted, that several articles put on board the Nadeshda by the Ameri- can company were sent from thence to Ochotsk for sale. The difficulty of conveyance from the European provinces of Russia to Ochotsk, and from thence to Kamtschatka, has hitherto been assigned as the reason why the inhabitants of this province are not only suffered to want all the comforts of life, but even many of the necessaries. Gin is the only article which the merchants never suffer to be wanted. The propensity to strong liquors is greater there than at other places, and is besides more pardonable, as the merchants endeavour by every means to keep it up; and a bout of drinking with some of their companions (which is seldom done at less expense than fifty roubles) is the only means which they have of disposing of their troublesome, but hard-earned, winnings. ■ 412 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. Bread and salt are two articles invariably possessed by the pooreii beggar in Europe ; but in Kamtschatka, where, owing to the increased number of the military, the consumption of bread is very considerable, and the conveyance is so very difficult and expensive, the soldier obtains only half his ration in flour, and the other half in money, yet never to an amount sutTicient to enable him to purchase it ; for the merchant of Kamtschatka will not import flour, because it is frequently injured during the journey, by which means the cost is sacrificed, while, on the contrary, gin is always sure to proJuce a clear and immediate profit ; and flour has no established price at Kamtschatka, although it is generally estimated at ten roubles the pud. The soldier's pay is never sufficient to purchase it at this rate ; and it would be infinitely better for him if he received nis flour in kind ; nor can it be imagined that there would ever be a superfluity of this article in Kamtschaika, not only because the soldier does not actually receive his customary schtschy and meat, but also be- cause the flour is very much injured by the length of the overland con- veyance in leathern skins, and the full delivery can never be baked. This is likewise the case with grits. Fish they never experience the want of, and during the summer season it affords them a wholesome and agreeable nourishment ; but in winter they are reduced to eat it in a dried state, (tn which condition it is called jukula, in Kamtschatka, ) and without anything to relish it ; and such diet, when long continued, cannot but be extremely injurious to health. The scarcity of salt is still greater than that of bread : on their arrival a few pounds of salt were considered as a valuable pre- sent ; and great as was their partiality for spirits, those who brought fish, berries, or game, were infinitely more thankful for a little of the former than when they rewarded their labours with gin, which they scarcely ever gave to them. If there were no want of salt, and it were sold at a just and reasonable price, the inhabitants would not be compelled to eat their fish in a dried state ; salt fish would at any rate prove an agreeable change ; and how many other occasions are there for this most necessary article. Every soldier receives a pound of salt monthly, but the Kam- tschaldala gets none. In the vicinity of St Peter and St. Paul thera were two salt-pans, which once produced a sufficiency for the comsump- tion of whole of Kamtschatka, but they havs both been suffered to go to ruin for some years past ; probably because the conveyance of the kettles and other necessary articles, by land, was considered as too difficult. On their arrival a pailful cf very bad gin cost 160 roubles, and a stof twenty. This price was established by the actual governor ; for, previous to his time, the merchants, whose avarice is unbounded, and who were well assured that the propensity to gin-drinking would not be diminished by any exorbitance of price, had already increased it to more than aOO roubles the pailful. The price of sugar is usually from four to five roubles the pound, but often rises to seven ; tobacco, five roubles ; butter and salt one and one and a half roubles the pound. Soap, candles, &c., are seldom to be had under two roubles the pound. Many other necessary articles of housekeeping are in a like proportion ; but it is seldom that even the greatest necessaries are to be procured. Rum, brandy, wine, coffee, spices, vinegar, mustard, oil, rice, flour, butter, and other similar articles, which are to be met with in the poorest villages of Russia, are never im- ported for sale ; neither are any of those necessary for clothing, with the exception of some very coarse linen, silk handkerchiefs, and blue nankeen. The officers procure from Irkutsk the cloth and other things requisite for their uniforms, but always at a very expensive rale. Black bread, 9a^ CAPTAIN KIITTSENSTERJ?^ 41 5 fish dressed without sauce or spice, without salt, vinegar, or pepper, are the only provisions which the officers, as well as the men, are able, for a constancy, to set upon their tables. There is nothing a hardy soldier will not endure so lopg as he is in good health ; but if he falls sicks, to what a wretched, miserable, hejp'ess conuiiion is he reduced. No physician, no merlicine, no reviving draught, nor strengthening diet, are to be pro- cured at St. Peter and St. Paul ; he cannot even struggle against death, which seizes hitn in this most painful condition. At St. Peter and St. Paul the number of horned cat'.le amounted to ten cows and, perhaps, as many young heifers ; there was, consequently no butter, and very httle niihc. It would be e.\tremely easy to support some hundred head there, as not only close to St. Peter and St. Paul, but on. the banks of the Awatsha River, there is plenty of the finest grass, if there were a sufficiency of men to collect a quantity of hay equal to the support of so large a flock during a long winter, independi'ni of the mili- tary, who. indeed, constitute the greater part of the inhabitants, and are 60 much employed in oiher works. The breeding of hogs is difficult, owing to the scarcity of corn ; but it would be easier to have sheep, goats, and poultry, the former requiring nothing but good hay. Although m the vicniity of St. Peter a.n)ge the Urania lell in with several armed canoes belonging to the Kimalaha of Gu6b6. This prince came on board, and passed an entire day with them, during which his fine flotilla towed astern of the corvette. It was to the Isle Guebe that M. de Pavre was sent formerly by M. de Coeiiva, to take dravvmgs of the nutmeg trees, which have since multiplied so much in the Indian and American colonies. The Gu6beans recollected that circumstance very well, of which they were themselves the first to speak ; and M. de Freycinet attributes to their former relations with the French the very particular amity which they testified toward him. Tne Urania, continuing her track, passed, on the r2th of December, the strait which separates the Isle of Mondox from Gueb6, and stretched to the eastward ; she ran some risk in the strait formed by the Isles of Rouib and ofBalabalak, and by the Wyag Islands, where, during a calm, violent currents set upon shrillows : but she was fortunately able to keep her anchorage, and to wail for sucli winds as permitted her lo keep her way until she had got clear of that perilous situation. She cast anchor, on the 16th of December, at the Isle of Rawak, after having at a short distance coasted along the northern side of Waigion. An observatory was established on shore, and its position, in latitude only 1| minutes south, was the most favourable for experiments with the pendulum which they could get under the equator. The period of this slay was employed in researches respecting geography and natural history. Two or three days before they sailed, they heard on a suddeji the martial music of tom-toms, kettle-drums, &c. Some moments after there appeared, at the large point of the island, the fleet of the Kimalaha of Guebe, who, faithful to his promise, had come to pay the visit he had before announced. This little squadron presented a spectacle at once imposing and whimsical. The Giiebean prince was accompanied by his brothers and sons, to the number of eight ; all, like himself, of good mien, and remarkable for their intelligence. They remained on board until the moment of the corvette's departure ; they gave, as presents to M. de Freyoinet, various curiosities of their country, and among others, hats made of straw interwoven with talc, worked with admirable art. Having sailed from Rawak on the 5th of January, 1819, the Urania stretched toward the Ayon Isles, which they saw on the 6th and 8th of the same month. The dysentery continued still to torment the crew ; it was long before it was joined to fevers, one of the first victims of which was M. Labiche, the second lieutenant, an officer of great merit and of the most amiable disposition. This was the second loss of the kind during the voyage, and U W88 keenly felt. M. DE FREYCI.NET. 41T Afler having visited several of the Caroline Isles, which are not pointed put on the maps, and having received throughout the most friendly recep- tion from the islanders, M. de Freycinet arrived, on the 17th of May, in sight of the Isle of Guam, and cast anchor on the night of the same day in the roadstead of Humata. This deUy, and tliat which the corvette made at Port San Louis, in the same island, restored health to the crew ; thanks to the generous eagerness with which the governor, Don Jose de Medinillo y Pineda, anticipated all the wants of the expedition, by pro- curing them refreshments and comforts of all kinds. M. de Freycinet appears to have collected, respecting the people of the Marianne Islands, information more extensive than that with which pre- ceding voyagers have enriched their accounts. He gives various details respecting their manners, language, and laws, as well as that singular government of which much has been said, and in which the women act an important part. Two months were employed in making these researches ; and at the same time they were occupied with those observations and experiments which formed the principal object of the expedition. M. de Medinillo had, during all this time, the kindness to provide the corvette abundantly with fresh provisions, to which he added provisions for the voyage, and for which he afterward refused to accept any reimbursement. The course of the Urania, from Guam to the Sandwich Islands, presents nothing remarkable. On the .5th of August, 1819, slie made the Island of Owyhee, and anchored in the Bay of Harahona in three days after. Tamahama, king of the Sandwich Isles, was dead ; his palace had been reduced to ashes, and almost all the hogs on the island had been slaugh- tered on account of his obsequies, according to the custom of the country, which was a real disappointment in the revictualling the corvette. Uno Rio, the eldest son and successor of Tamahama, enjoyed at that time but a badly-established auth^rtv. The chiefs, compelled to submit to the arms of his father, raisn^ extraordinary pretensions, caused him to dread an approaching war. He came with his wives and a numerous suite on board the Urania, on the occasion of the baptism of one of th* principal chiefs of the island. That ceremony was performed with much pomp by the Abbe Quelen, chaplain of the vessel. The Sandwich Islands were, like the Marianne, the object of the assiduous researches of M. de Freycinet and of the officers under his command. Numerous observations were made in search of the magnetic equator and its inflexions, in the Great Ocean. On the 30th of August the Urania sailed from Port Jackson, passing through the islands of the Austral Polynesia. By taking this track, the position of the dangerous Isle of Byron was rectified, as well as that of the Island of Pyletant, the most southerly of the Friendly Islands, and also that of Hjwe Island. A new island, surrounded by dangerous reefs, «vas discovered to the east of Tonga, which M. de Freycinet named Rose Island. The Urania anchored in Port Jackson on the 18th of November, 1819 ; she remained there till the 25th of December, and this interval was em- ployed, as at all the preceding stoppages, in scientific inquiries. M. de Freycinet speaks in this respect with gratitude for the assistance afforded to him by General Macquarie, the governor of the colony. On quitting Poit Jackson, the course of the corvette was shaped to pass between Van Dieman's Land and New Zealand. On the 7th of January, 1820, the southern extremity of the latter islands was doubled 418 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. in sight of Campbell's Island. From that moment until nearing th« coast of Terra del Fuego the winds were constantly favourable. The Ur.inia reached 59 degrees of south latitude, and she found floating ice in the 54th degree. On the 5th of February the coast of Terra del Fuego was seen in the neighbourhood of Cape Desolation ; the season was as frightful as the adjoining shores. In the impossibility of reaching Christmas Harbour, it became necessary to make for the Bay of Good Success, in the Straits of Le Maire ; but scarcely had the anchor dropped, when a furious stonn caused the ship to drive. There was not a moment to be lost in cuttmg the cable and setting sail with all speed, to get out of the bay, and she skirted at a very short distance the rocks and breakers which lie upon ita north point. This tempest lasted two days, and drove the vessel considerably to the northward, which deterrnmed M. de Freycinet to bear up for the Falkland Islands, in sight of which they arrived on the 14th of February, accord- ing to their reckoning, but the i3th according to European time, they having gained a day in circumnavigating the globe. The Urania was lost in consequence of striking on a sunken rock at the entrance of French Bay, in the Falkland Islands, when they wer» taken off by an American whaler, and taken first to Rio Janeiro and after- ward to Havre de Grace, where they arrived with most of the ro]lcction» made during the voyage, on the 13th of November, 1820 THS KKr. V\vV ^1 tout ILIfoi ILIIc a Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. 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