UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE 
 
 AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION 
 
 CIRCULAR No. 231 
 December, 1921 
 
 THE* HOME VINEYARD 
 
 By L. O. BONNET 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Uses of Grapes 2 
 
 Grape Culture in California 2 
 
 Varieties for the Home Vineyard ......:...:.. 3 
 
 Propagation of Vines...... ...., ; . 5 
 
 Preparation of Ground and Planting 6 
 
 Supports 6 
 
 Arbors 7 
 
 Treatment of Young Vines 8 
 
 Treatment of Full-bearing Vines 9 
 
 Cultivation 10 
 
 Irrigation 11 
 
 Diseases, Pests 11 
 
 References for study 12 
 
J UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA EXPERIMENT STATION 
 
 Uses of Grapes. — The grape is one of the best of home fruits. The 
 abundant foliage with its changing tints and the fruit with its varied 
 forms and colors add much to the attractiveness of the garden, and 
 the ease with which the vines can be trained facilitates their use as 
 ornamentals. But the chief value of the home vineyard lies in the 
 abundance and utility of the crop. 
 
 The home vineyard should be so planned that rt will furnish the 
 table with fresh fruit of various colors, shapes, and flavors during the 
 whole grape season, from July to November. It should also provide 
 the family with raisins, grape syrup, grape juice, jellies, marmalades, 
 and vinegar, all of the best quality. To accomplish this, several kinds 
 of grapes, wisely chosen from the extremely varied and numerous 
 varieties, must be grown. 
 
 Grape Culture in California. — California, with its variety of suit- 
 able climates, is so well adapted to the culture of grapes that it is 
 possible to grow in the open, in some locality, all of the varieties used 
 iD the vineyards and in the hothouse graperies of the world. 
 
 Eastern grapes, with their marked acidity and peculiar flavor, 
 pleasing to some people, and suitable for grape juice and jellies, thrive 
 in the fog belt and the coastal regions. Less satisfactory results will 
 usually be obtained with these grapes when they are grown in the hot 
 interior valleys. 
 
 The European or Vinifera vine with its innumerable varieties is 
 adapted to many different climates and soils and can be grown almost 
 everywhere in California. Some varieties are especially adapted to 
 cool locations, while others will give the best results when planted 
 in warm regions. 
 
 Vinifera varieties may be divided into three groups, classified 
 as table grapes, wine grapes, and raisin grapes. The table grapes, 
 namely, varieties suitable to be eaten as fresh fruit, may be placed 
 in two categories, poor shippers and good shippers. Many of the poor 
 shippers are better for eating than are the good shippers. The term 
 1 ' wine grapes ' ' refers to a large number of varieties of grapes. These 
 grapes generally have small berries whose juice can be easily extracted 
 and which possess a neutral or more or less pronounced flavor. They 
 are especially suitable for the manufacture of grape juices and grape 
 syrups. Raisin grapes are those whose high sugar content, desirable 
 flavor, size, or seedlessness make them suitable for drying. 
 
Circular 231] 
 
 THE HOME VINEYARD 
 
 VARIETIES FOR THE HOME VINEYARD 
 
 The list of grapes given in Table 1 contains an assortment of the 
 choicest table grapes, a few raisin varieties, and a certain nnmber 
 of varieties suitable for the production of grape juice and other grape 
 products. 
 
 From this list many selected groups for home vineyards may be 
 made to suit the taste of the amateur grape grower, and to fit the 
 climatic conditions of a locality. A complete group would be one from 
 which all types of grape products could be made. The varieties should 
 also be selected from the point of view of their time of ripening so 
 that a successtion of -ripe grapes may be secured. It is obvious that 
 they should be varied in shape, flavor, size and color. 
 
 If the vines are to be grown for an arbor they should be selected 
 from the most vigorous varieties, though almost any vine can be 
 used for this purpose. 
 
 All this various and interesting diversity can be obtained by using 
 Table 1 with the explanation of abbreviations contained in Table 2. 
 
 TABLE 1 
 
 LIST OF VARIETIES 
 
 Shape and 
 Variety Flavor Si: 
 
 1. Agawam sf 
 
 2. Alicante, Black s 
 
 3. Appley Towers o 
 
 4. Bellino s 
 
 5. Chasselas rose s 
 
 6. Chaouch o 
 
 7. Ciprollnero : o 
 
 8. Colman, Gros s 
 
 *9. Corinth, Black s 
 
 10. Cornichon, Black e 
 
 11. Damas rose s 
 
 12. Damascus, Black o 
 
 13. Danugue s 
 
 14. Dattier e 
 
 15. Dizmar o 
 
 16. Doigt de Deesse e 
 
 17. Due de Magenta s 
 
 18. Emperor e 
 
 19. English Colossal e 
 
 20. Grec rouge s 
 
 21. Henab o 
 
 22. Hunisa e 
 
 23. Khalili o 
 
 ze 
 
 Color 
 
 Period 
 
 Vigor and 
 Climate 
 
 m 
 
 r 
 
 e 
 
 aac 
 
 1 
 
 b 
 
 m 
 
 h 
 
 1 
 
 b 
 
 m 
 
 h 
 
 1 
 
 b 
 
 e 
 
 h 
 
 m 
 
 r 
 
 ve 
 
 wc 
 
 vl 
 
 w 
 
 ve 
 
 h 
 
 1 
 
 rb 
 
 m 
 
 h 
 
 vl 
 
 b 
 
 m 
 
 ah 
 
 vs 
 
 br 
 
 ve 
 
 aah 
 
 1 
 
 b 
 
 1 
 
 ah 
 
 vl 
 
 r 
 
 m 
 
 h 
 
 1 
 
 b 
 
 m 
 
 h 
 
 1 
 
 b 
 
 m 
 
 ahc 
 
 vl 
 
 w 
 
 m 
 
 ah 
 
 1 
 
 w 
 
 ve 
 
 aah 
 
 vl 
 
 r 
 
 m 
 
 ah 
 
 m 
 
 b 
 
 e 
 
 he 
 
 1 
 
 rb 
 
 1 
 
 ah 
 
 m 
 
 b 
 
 ve 
 
 h 
 
 m 
 
 r 
 
 m 
 
 c 
 
 1 
 
 r 
 
 m 
 
 ah 
 
 1 
 
 br 
 
 m 
 
 h 
 
 m 
 
 w 
 
 ve 
 
 wh 
 
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA EXPERIMENT STATION 
 
 TABLE 1— (Continued) 
 
 Shape and 
 
 Variety Flavor 
 
 24. Kurtelaska o 
 
 25. Luglienga o 
 
 26. Madresfield Court om 
 
 27. Malaga o 
 
 28. Malvasia bianca sm 
 
 29. Molinera s 
 
 30. Mavron o 
 
 *31. Monukka, Black e 
 
 32. Morocco, Black s 
 
 33. Moscatello fino om 
 
 34. Muscat, Flame om 
 
 35. Muscat of Alexandria om 
 
 36. Napoleon s 
 
 37. Niagara sf 
 
 38. Olivette blanche e 
 
 39. Olivette rose e 
 
 40. Palomino s 
 
 41. Panse de Roquevaire e 
 
 42. Paykani e 
 
 43. Pierce Isabella sf 
 
 44. Portuguese, Blue s 
 
 45. Prune de Cazouls e 
 
 46. Quagliano s 
 
 47. Queen, Golden o 
 
 48. Raisin du St. Pere e 
 
 49. Servan s 
 
 *50. Sultanina, Rose o 
 
 51. Terret Monstre e 
 
 52. Trentham, Black o 
 
 53. Ohanez o 
 
 Size 
 
 Color 
 
 Period 
 
 Vigor and 
 Climate 
 
 1 
 
 W 
 
 e 
 
 h 
 
 m 
 
 W 
 
 ve 
 
 ch 
 
 1 
 
 b 
 
 m 
 
 h 
 
 1 
 
 w 
 
 m 
 
 h 
 
 m 
 
 w 
 
 m 
 
 ach 
 
 1 
 
 r 
 
 m 
 
 ahc 
 
 1 
 
 r 
 
 1* 
 
 h 
 
 m 
 
 b 
 
 ve 
 
 ahc 
 
 vl 
 
 b 
 
 vl 
 
 h 
 
 m 
 
 b 
 
 m 
 
 he 
 
 1 
 
 r 
 
 m 
 
 he 
 
 1 
 
 w 
 
 m 
 
 he 
 
 1 
 
 w 
 
 e 
 
 c 
 
 m 
 
 w 
 
 e 
 
 aac 
 
 1 
 
 w 
 
 vl 
 
 h 
 
 m 
 
 r 
 
 1 
 
 h 
 
 m 
 
 w 
 
 m 
 
 ach 
 
 1 
 
 w 
 
 m 
 
 h 
 
 m 
 
 r 
 
 ve 
 
 aah 
 
 1 
 
 b 
 
 m 
 
 aac 
 
 m 
 
 b 
 
 ve 
 
 c 
 
 1 
 
 b 
 
 m 
 
 h 
 
 1 
 
 b 
 
 m 
 
 h 
 
 1 
 
 w 
 
 m 
 
 ah 
 
 sm 
 
 w 
 
 m 
 
 ch 
 
 1 
 
 w 
 
 vl 
 
 ch 
 
 s 
 
 r 
 
 e 
 
 aac 
 
 vl 
 
 w 
 
 m 
 
 h 
 
 1 
 
 b 
 
 m 
 
 h 
 
 1 
 
 w 
 
 vl 
 
 ah 
 
 TABLE 2 
 Explanation of Abbreviations in Table 1 
 
 Shape and Flavor 
 
 Size 
 
 Color 
 
 Period 
 
 Vigor and Climate 
 
 e = elongated 
 
 1 = large 
 
 w = white 
 
 ve = very early 
 
 a = very vigorous 
 suitable for 
 arbors 
 
 o = oval 
 
 m = medium 
 
 r = red 
 
 e = early 
 
 w = small vine 
 
 s = spherical 
 
 s = small 
 
 b = black 
 
 m = mid season 
 
 h = hot regions 
 
 m = muscat 
 flavor 
 
 vl = very large 
 
 
 l=late 
 
 c = cool regions 
 * = seedless 
 
 f = concord 
 flavor 
 
 
 
 vl = very late 
 
 aa = do well only 
 on trellis or arbor 
 
 Combinations indicate variations due to climate. For example, rb indicates that the grape is 
 red in a warm climate and black in a cool one. 
 
Cool regions 
 
 
 
 Warm regions 
 
 25 
 
 
 
 6, 15, 23 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 42 
 
 31, 44 
 
 
 
 19,31 
 
 24 
 
 
 
 24 
 
 1, 9 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 17 
 
 
 
 4,17 
 
 14, 40 
 
 
 14 
 
 , 27, 28, 35, 47 
 
 , 16, 20, 35, 
 
 50 
 
 7, 
 
 21, 29, 34, 22 
 
 13, 26, 43 
 
 
 
 12, 13 
 
 49 
 
 
 
 49 
 
 30, 39 
 
 
 
 18, 30 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 32 
 
 Circular 231] the home VINEYARD 5 
 
 Typical examples of a complete group for cool regions and for 
 warm regions are given in Table 3. 
 
 TABLE 3 
 Typical Complete Groups for Cool and Warm Regions 
 
 Period Color 
 
 f White 
 Very Early j Red 
 
 [ Black 
 
 f White 
 Early \ Red 
 
 [ Black 
 
 [ White 
 Mid-season i Red 
 
 [ Black 
 
 f White 
 Late < Red 
 
 [ Black 
 
 Very Late White 38, 53 
 
 TABLE 4 
 
 Varieties for Special Purposes 
 
 Seedless grapes 9, 31, 50 
 
 Grapes for juice .-. 28, 33, 40, 43 
 
 Grapes for jelly 1, 28, 34, 35, 37, 43 
 
 Grapes for preserving 28, 33, 35 
 
 Grapes for arbor 1, 8, 9, 10, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 20, 28, 29, 31, 39, 40, 42, 43, 47, 
 
 50, 53 
 
 Grapes with muscat flavor 26, 28, 33, 34, 35 
 
 Eastern grapes (slip skins) 1, 37, 43 
 
 Raisin grapes 9, 31, 35, 40 
 
 PROPAGATION OF VINES 
 
 The propagation of vines is easy and is generally done by means 
 of cuttings or rootings. In a phylloxera-infested area resistant stocks 
 must be planted. These stocks are generally grown in the nursery 
 as ungrafted or grafted cuttings before they are planted out in the 
 field. For details on this subject consult Circular No. 225 and Bulletin 
 No. 331 of the Agricultural Experiment Station. 
 
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT STATION 
 
 PREPARATION OF GROUND AND PLANTING 
 
 Before planting, the ground must be plowed or dug twelve inches 
 or deeper, especially in heavy soils. "When the soil has been plowed 
 to a depth of fourteen to sixteen inches, cuttings or rootings can be 
 planted with a dibble ; otherwise holes must be dug. 
 
 The distances at which vines should be planted depend upon the 
 soil and climate, the shape and size of an arbor, etc. In cool climates 
 vines can be planted according to the square system at 7X7 or 
 8X8 feet; or according to the avenue system at 6 X 10, 6 X 12, 
 or 7 X 12 feet. In warmer regions the following distances may 
 be adopted, 9 X 9, 10 X 10, and 7 X 12, 7 X 14, 8 X 10, 8 X 12 feet. 
 The more vigorous the variety and the more favorable the conditions 
 for growth the more space each vine should have. For covering orna- 
 mental arbors or fences around the house the vines should be planted 
 so that they have at least these spaces available for root growth. (See 
 cover cut.) 
 
 To insure the rooting of cuttings, the soil should be well packed 
 around the base, and one bud alone left above ground. In planting 
 rooted cuttings, the top must be pruned to one shoot with two buds 
 and the roots cut back to about three inches. When they are planted 
 with a dibble, the roots must be cut back to about one-fourth of an 
 inch. 
 
 Packing the soil around the roots should be done carefully. With 
 grafted vines the union must be put at or slightly above the level 
 of the ground and otherwise planted like rootings. It is a good prac- 
 tice when planting to mound the soil around the unions. 
 
 SUPPORTS 
 
 Stakes.— Under certain systems of pruning, the vines must be sup- 
 ported temporarily until they are able to support themselves. With 
 other methods of pruning they need supports permanently. 
 
 Stakes used in vineyards may be classed as (a) temporary, (b) 
 semipermanent, and (c) permanent stakes. For temporary stakes the 
 following sizes are desirable : 1" X 1" X 40" for trellised vines and 
 2" X 2" X 4' for vase-form pruned vines. 
 
 Semipermanent stakes, with a probable duration of five to eight 
 years, measure 3 to 4 feet for grafted vines or ungrafted vines with 
 short trunks, and 6 feet for those with long trunks. 
 
 Finally, permanent stakes for long pruned vines measure generally 
 2 1 /2 // X 2%" X 6'. Stakes 5 feet long, however, are sufficient for 
 the support of a trellis. 
 
Circular 231] THE HOME VINEYARD 7 
 
 Trellises. — The varieties of grapes requiring long pruning and 
 those trained as horizontal cordons need trellising to secure the best 
 results. A trellis requires 7-foot end posts on which to stretch the 
 wires, 5-foot stakes to support the wires, and 40-inch pickets as 
 temporary supports for the vines. End posts are generally made 
 of redwood. Split redwood end posts are better than sawed posts. 
 They must be 4" X 5" X 7', and set slanting slightly outward from 
 the row with about three feet and a half in the ground. The perma- 
 nent stakes supporting the strands of wire must be put between the 
 vines and not just by them. This disposition presupposes that when 
 the vines were started they were supported by temporary stakes or 
 pickets. Placing the stakes every three or four vines according to 
 the distance at which they are planted or according to their vigor 
 and between the vines has several advantages over the ordinary method 
 of putting them at the vines. Generally two strands of galvanized 
 wire are used in trellises. The lower wire is generally of No. 11 and 
 the upper wire of No. 13. The height at which the strands are set 
 from the ground depends upon several factors. Wires are held by 
 staples and in such a way that they can be stretched easily. Figure 3 
 corresponds to the type of trellises described above. 
 
 ARBORS 
 
 Arbors vary widely in design. There is no typical shape of arbor, 
 and the size also, may vary to a large extent. They are generally 
 intended to shade the entrances of houses, or to cover verandas, or 
 garden walks. (See cover cut and Fig. 1.) They are used commer- 
 cially in some countries for the production of late table grapes. 
 
 Vines can easily be trained to almost any form. Certain varieties, 
 because of their vigor, climb more rapidly than others and are gen- 
 erally considered good arbor grapes. However, it is possible to grow 
 medium or weak varieties on arbors when they are trained properly. 
 The principle to apply to arbor vines is that a strong root system must 
 be developed before attempting to form the trunk. "Without a strong 
 root system it is impossible to make a vine climb quickly and be 
 vigorous. The procedure will be as follows : 
 
 First year : Plant a rooting or a cutting and give it the best care 
 without pruning or pinching it during the whole growing season. 
 
 Second year : In winter after the leaves have fallen, prune off all 
 canes but the best one, which should be cut back to two buds. In 
 spring when the shoots start, remove all but one after the danger of 
 frosts is over and tie it to the support every fifteen or eighteen inches. 
 
8 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT STATION 
 
 The more vertical a shoot grows the longer it gets. Pinch the growing 
 tips of any strong laterals that may form on the main shoot. When 
 the shoot has reached the top of the arbor the main difficulty has been 
 overcome. From this point it may be spread over the arbor, care 
 being taken to prune according to the usual method applied to the 
 variety. If the growth during the second year is not satisfactory, 
 prune and train the vine the third year as was done during the second 
 year. 
 
 Fig. 1 
 
 TREATMENT OF YOUNG VINES THE FIRST, SECOND, AND THIRD YEARS 
 
 During the first growing season, the vines should be hoed and 
 cultivated several times. Early summer irrigations should be given 
 when possible. No removel of shoots nor pinching is necessary during 
 the first year, except in the hottest and most fertile regions, nor is 
 staking, necessary. 
 
 Before the second growing season begins, the vines must be pruned 
 by leaving one spur with two buds from which to grow a single cane 
 which will develop into the final trunk. The trunk may be formed 
 the first year if one cane is sufficiently long and strong. The vines 
 should be staked before they begin to sprout. One shoot only should 
 be kept on each vine and tied securely to the stake. If an arbor is 
 desired, the shoot must be kept as vertical as possible in order to 
 obtain a long and straight growth. At the end of the second growing 
 season the trunk of the vine is formed. Pruning at this time will 
 
Circular 231] 
 
 THE HOME VINEYARD 
 
 consist of cutting the single cane to the height at which the head of 
 the vine is desired. Laterals if they have been produced may be 
 utilized to start the arms of the vine. 
 
 During the third growing season shoots will grow from the upper 
 part of this cane and all shoots within 8 or 10 inches of the ground 
 should be removed as soon as they start, Shoots which will be needed 
 the following year for spurs, or fruit canes, or for extending the vine 
 over an arbor the next year, should be allowed to grow freely without 
 summer pruning. All other shoots should be prevented from growing 
 too vigorously by pinching off the growing tip when they are less 
 than 18 inches long. 
 
 Fig. 2. — Vase formed vine. 
 
 TREATMENT OF FULL BEARING VINES 
 
 Pruning. — Among the numerous systems of pruning vines, the 
 ordinary vase form and the bilateral cordon are to be recommended 
 for the home vineyard. Nearly all of the varieties contained in Table 1 
 will give good results with these two types of pruning. The varieties 
 of the list requiring long pruning are the Sultanina and the Black 
 Corinth. The latter must also be girdled during blossoming to yield 
 satisfactorily. 
 
 Fig. 2 shows a three-year-old vine pruned with a vase formed head. 
 The trunk is perfect and the head is formed of three well spaced spurs 
 with two buds each. 
 
10 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA EXPERIMENT STATION 
 
 Fig. 3 shows a vine pruned as a bilateral horizontal cordon. A 
 cordon is a^ long trunk, usually horizontal, on which short arms bear- 
 ing the fruit spurs are distributed. In covering an arbor modifications 
 of this system are used. The trunks vary in length and direction 
 according to the space to be covered. 
 
 
 zr ' ~ 
 
 
 
 
 
 to 
 \ 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 
 l^J= 
 
 ~*> V^rT-^-^tT-^ 
 
 fir 
 
 |if 
 
 M 
 
 w 
 
 * '*^***crr^^!..-»"^"^- J 1 fi 
 
 
 "A— — ^" <Tr 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 ir 
 
 
 -tl--- 
 
 .-£'. , 
 
 Fig. 3. — Bilateral horizontal cordon. 
 
 Bearing vines should be carefully pruned every winter after the 
 fall of the leaves. On a vine of average vigor about two thirds of the 
 canes should be removed entirely and the rest pruned back to spurs 
 of 2 to 3 buds. In long pruning, canes of from 2 to 4 feet for fruit and 
 wood spurs of 1 or 2 buds to produce fruit canes for the following 
 year are left. The total number of buds left will be about the same 
 with each system. Weak vines should be pruned more severely. Very 
 vigorous vines should be allowed more buds. The number of buds 
 on spurs and canes should be in proportion to their vigor or size. 
 Which canes to leave will depend on their position. Vigorous canes 
 so placed that they will conserve or improve the shape of the vine 
 should be chosen for spurs and fruit canes. 
 
 Cultivation. — Each year the home vineyard should be plowed and 
 hoed. The number of plowings and hoeings will depend upon whether 
 irrigation is practiced or not. In any case the vineyard should be 
 plowed to a depth of six to eight inches and the soil well loosened, 
 before the buds sprout. Then the vines should be hoed. If irrigation 
 is practiced the soil should be cultivated after each irrigation. The 
 vineyard should be kept free from weeds and supplied with a good 
 soil mulch up to the picking of late grapes. 
 
Circular 231] TH e HOME VINEYARD 11 
 
 Irrigation. — Irrigation where the rainfall is less than 16 inches 
 will increase the quality and yield. Where the rainfall is less than 
 7 to 10 inches a late winter irrigation is beneficial. Generally two 
 moderate irrigations one after the blossoming and one several weeks 
 before ripening will be sufficient to secure good results. 
 
 Diseases. — The most common disease with which the amateur grape 
 grower will have to contend is the Oidium or Powdery Mildew. 
 
 Oidiwn, or Powdery Mildew, is caused by a fungus which attacks 
 all green parts of shoots and fruit. It is successfully combated by the 
 use of powdered sulfur dusted on the foliage and on the bunches 
 of grapes. Two to four dustings applied from the time the shoots 
 measure six to eight incjies up to the beginning of ripening will give 
 efficient protection. 
 
 Pests. — Insect pests cause more damage to vines than do fungus 
 diseases. The three most common insects the home vineyardist will 
 have to fight are cut worm, grape leaf hopper, and Phylloxera. 
 
 Cut worms sometimes begin to destroy buds before the vines are 
 sprouting, but they generally begin during sprouting. As soon as 
 noticed they should be combated. If chickens are allowed to run in the 
 vineyard, they will gather up the worms efficiently; if this is not 
 feasible, the use of poisoned bait is the most efficient method of destroy- 
 ing cut worms. One of the following formulas may be used: (1) 
 Arsenite of soda, 1 pound ; syrup or molasses, 2 pounds ; water, 1 
 gallons. Chop alfalfa and dip in this solution. (2) Paris green, 
 1 pound ; molasses, half a gallon ; water, 4 gallons, and bran, 25 
 pounds. A teaspoonful of one of these mixtures should be placed 
 around the trunk without touching it or any other part of the vine. 
 
 The grape leaf hopper is found all over California and causes 
 great injury to the vine and the crop when it occurs in large numbers. 
 It is best combated when in its larval stage from May to June, accord- 
 ing to the climatic conditions of the locality. When the majority of 
 eggs laid by the over-wintering adults have hatched and before any 
 hoppers have become winged, is the time to control them. The means 
 of control are spraying and dusting. 
 
 The following sp^ay formula is recommended : 
 
 One pint of Black Leaf 40 to 150 gallons of water; soap, 6 pounds. 
 In spraying, the leaves must be hit from below. Thoroughness is the 
 keynote of success. 
 
 Dusting with mixtures known in the trade as Nico-Dust is still 
 in the experimental stage. Of all the mixtures, those containing sulfur 
 seem to be the most efficient. Here again the dust must be directed 
 
12 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA EXPERIMENT STATION 
 
 from below in order to hit the hoppers. Dusting is not so efficient 
 as spraying. 
 
 The Phylloxera is a minute yellowish insect attacking the roots 
 of vines and causing their death in a few years. Very sandy soils 
 are considered immune to the pest. When a region is infested, the 
 only way to establish a good vineyard is to plant vines grafted on 
 resistant stock. Among the best resistant stocks are : Chasselas X Ber- 
 landieri 41 B, Riparia X Rupestris 3309 and 3306 ; Riparia X Ber- 
 landieri 420 A, and Aramon X Rupestris Ganzin No. 1. 
 
 REFERENCES 
 
 For general publications on grapes address: 
 
 1. Editor in Chief, Division of Publications, U. S. D. A., Washington, D. C. 
 
 2. State Department of Agriculture, Sacramento, Calif. 
 
 3. College of Agriculture, Berkeley, Calif. 
 
 Many recent publications will be sent free on application to these three 
 addresses. Publications which are out of print can often be found at a local 
 library. 
 
 The viticultural publications of the College of Agriculture at the present 
 time available for distribution are the following: 
 
 1. < ' Vine Pruning in California. ' ' Bui. 241 and 246. 
 
 2. "Seedless Raisin Grapes." Bui. 298. 
 
 3. "Phylloxera-Resistant Stocks." Bui. 331. 
 
 4. "Hot Room Callusing." Circ. 76. 
 
 5. "Grafting Vinifera Vineyards." Circ. 115. 
 
 6. "Spraying for the Grape Leaf Hopper." Circ. 126. 
 
 7. "Oidium or Powdery Mildew of the Vine." Circ. 144. 
 
 8. "Prunning the Seedless Grapes." Circ. 191. 
 
 9. "Propagation of Vines." Circ. 225. 
 
 10. "Protection of Vineyards from Phylloxera." Circ. 226. 
 
 11. "Vineyard Irrigation in Arid Climates." Circ. 228. • . . 
 
 12. "Cordon Pruning." Circ. 229. 
 
 There is no book in English treating fully the cultivation of the vine in Califor- 
 nia, but valuable information may be found in the following: 
 
 "Manual of American Grape Growing." U. P. Hedriek. The Macmillan Com- 
 pany, New York. 
 "California Fruits." E. J. Wickson. Pacific Rural Press, San Francisco. 
 
 The Agriculture College of the University of California offers a correspondence 
 course in Grape-Growing, which may be taken for a small fee.