Mm of tfie The Story of the Southern Mountaineer and His Kin of the Piedmont; with an Account of Some of the Agencies of Progress among Them BY ARTHUR W. SPAULDING SOUTHERN PUBLISHING ASSOCIATION NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE ATLANTA, GEORGIA FORT WORTH, TEXAS COPYRIGHTED 1915, BY SOUTHERN PUBLISHING ASSOCIATION PREFACE AMERICA knows least of what is most American. Melting-pot of the nations, with Europe's and Asia's dross thrown in along with their good metal, she is likely to forget, in all this conglomerate, the base of the alloy, which made the nation and which must yet preserve it. In the providence of God there has been saved to America a long wedge of that pure metal a golden wedge of Ophir. Stretching from North to South, scarce two hundred miles inland, are the mountains that formed the frontier of English America when America became a nation. These mountains are filled with the stock of the Revolution, a race with the primitive virtues that won our liberties, that extended our borders, that preserved the ideal of freedom in its great hour of trial. A smattering of knowledge gained mostly from works of fiction has the American public of this great moun- taineer race, a smattering that begets more of idle won- der and vacant amusement than of honest admiration and symapthy. Yet the Southern mountaineer is, all in all, the most admirable type of American. Schooled to simplicity, not lacking in vigor, he keeps in great de- gree the powers that preserve nations, powers that too many of our people are losing in the nerve-racking strain of our unexampled age. What of opportunity 886477 (3) 4 Preface and resource the tfou&iaineer lacks it is the duty of more fortunate' classes to supply. It is a duty of patriotism, and above all a duty of Christian brotherhood. For an intelligent application of this aid a correct and sympathetic understanding of conditions is neces- sary. It has been the pleasure of a few of the mountain- eer's friends to help give this understanding; yet, compared with the greater number of doubtful works that exploit chiefly his peculiarities and faults, the efforts of these friends are not too many nor too great. It is, then, with some confidence of need that this present volume is put forth, containing a brief account of the origin and history of the Southern mountaineer, of some of the most representative agencies for his development, and in particular of one widespread system that seeks to minister to the needs and to enlist more ministers. The credit for the initiation and successful prosecu- tion of the work on this book is due to Mrs. Ellen G. White and her son, William C. White. Their deep and prac- tical interest in the cause of Christianity in the South, evidenced in many a phase and field, led them to pro- pose such a work as this and to make possible the re- search and effort which produced it. Acknowledgment is also gladly given of the aid ren- dered by the teachers of the Nashville Agricultural and Normal Institute and of the smaller schools throughout the South affiliated with them, as also of the assistance and encouragement of friends in other connections, Preface 5 who have supplied information, corrected manuscripts, and given cordial support to the enterprise. To the author the work has been a labor of love. Since, when a boy, his lot was first cast among the Southern mountaineers, his interests and affections have been closely entwined with theirs, and it is his confident hope that this book shall be a means of enlisting many more friends, both youth and those in the prime of life, in the cause of the mountaineer. A. w. s. Hendersonville, N. (7., November, 1915. "THE greatest want of the world is the want of men, men who will not be bought or sold; men who in their inmost souls are true and honest; men who do not fear to call sin by its right name; men whose conscience is as true to duty as the needle to the pole; men who will stand for the right though the heavens fall." ELLEN G. WHITE. CONTENTS HIGHLANDS AND HIGHLANDERS CHAPTER FAGB 1. THE EXPLORERS 11 2. THE PIONEERS 21 3. IN TIMES OF WAR 32 4. EDUCATION AND RELIGION 48 5. THE MODERN MOUNTAINEER 61 6. THE HEART OF APPALACHIA 79 THE VANGUARD OF THE HELPERS 7. THE PIONEER SCHOOL 97 8. THE PREMIER OF HOME MISSIONS 108 9. REDEEMING THE TIME 116 10. COALS FROM THE ALTAR 129 A BROTHERHOOD OF SERVICE 11. A SCHOOL OF SIMPLICITY 149 12. LEARNING TO TEACH 160 13. THE OUT-SCHOOL MOVEMENT 166 PIONEERING 14. ON AN OLD FRONTIER 177 15. BEHIND THE BACK OF MAMMON 187 16. PREACHING BY HAND 197 17. SERMONS IN SOIL 206 THE MEDICAL MISSIONARY 18. FOLLOWING THE GREAT PHYSICIAN 221 19. THE RURAL SANITARIUM 227 20. THE NURSE AND THE MEDICAL MISSIONARY 235 SCHOOL WORK 21. THE SCHOOLS OF GOD 243 22. THE MOUNTAIN CHILD AND THE WORLD 252 23. Vice and Victory 262 COOPERATION 24. WHOSOEVER Is NOT AGAINST Us 279 25. THE TIMES OF CHEER 285 THE HELP OF THE HILLS 26. THE TORCH-BEARER 297 27. A CHOSEN PEOPLE 307 (7) IIXtJSTRATIONS PAGE THE MAKER OF THE HOME Frontispiece BATTLE OF KING'S MOUNTAIN 16 ON WATCH 31 BAKER MOUNTAIN SCHOOL AND CHURCH 48 RELIEF MAP OF APPALACHIA 64 OLD AND NEW , 78 CROSSING THE BRANCH 93 LINCOLN MEMORIAL UNIVERSITY 94 CHAPEL, BEREA COLLEGE 97 STUDENTS AT HIGHLAND COLLEGE 112 FIRST CABIN, AND RECITATION HALL, BERRY SCHOOL 129 ONEIDA INSTITUTE 144 AN ANCIENT ART 146 ON MADISON CAMPUS 160 AT FOUNTAIN HEAD SCHOOL 168 NICKOJACK CAVE 186 SHOPS, EUFOLA ACADEMY 192 A NEW INDUSTRY 208 AT COWEE MOUNTAIN SCHOOL 216 EAGER FOR PROGRESS 226 MADISON RURAL SANITARIUM 240 PRIMITIVE MOTIVE POWER 251 GOING TO MARKET 275 IN THE SAPPHIRE COUNTRY 276 SELF-SUPPORTING WORKERS' CONVENTION 288 A KENTUCKY HOMESTEAD 294 A FAMILY REUNION 304 (8) INTRODUCTION \TO PART of the United States is more interesting than the section generally known as the Southern Appalachian mountain region, the upland South. In area this mountain country, together with the hill country immediatly adjoining it, is twice as large as all New England. It is rich in abundance and variety of natural resources, genial climate, fertile soils adapted to a very large variety of fruits and field and garden crops, hard- wood forests, waterpower, iron, coal, oil, zinc, copper, marble, granite and other building stones, clays, material for concrete and other raw materials for the most im- portant and valuable standard manufactured products. The people of the country are of the purest American stock, if indeed we may speak of an American stock. They are almost wholly the descendants of the English, Scotch, Scotch-Irish, Germans, and French Huguenots, who settled in America before the Revolution. They are a hardy, intelligent, courageous, self-reliant people, as is well shown by the part they played in the Revolution- ary War, the War of 1812, the Indian wars, Mexican War, and on both sides in the Civil War. Their native intel- ligence and individualistic tendencies have only been accentuated by the hardships imposed on them by their environment, their isolation, and their separation into very small communities, the long continued pioneer conditions under which they still live after such conditions (a) Introduction have passed away from almost all parts of the country. Away from the routes of commerce and the centers of population, these people may be backward in their industrial and commercial development, retarded to such an extent that they have aptly been called "our contemporary ancestors," but no one who knows them well ever thinks of them as weaklings or degenerates or as dull or as slow witted. In native ability, physical and mental, they are the full equals of any people in the United States a fact proven thousands of times by the sons and daughters of this section who with little preparation from the schools have made their homes in other portions of the country and have come in close competition with other peoples in all the industries and professions. The actual wealth of this section is small as compared with other sections; but, as already stated, this is not because of paucity of natural resources; it is rather because of the greater difficulty of unlocking the treasure house of this section and making its rich stores of wealth available for use. Some day this will be one of the wealthiest and most progressive sections of the United States, and these people in their own home land will be recognized for the worth of their sturdy qualities. Knowing this section and its people intimately, I am convinced that their greatest need is in good schools adapted to their conditions schools that will make them intelligent about the life they live; that will teach them what they need to know to enable them to adjust Introduction themselves to their environment and to conquer it; schools that will appeal to children and grown people alike; schools with courses of study growing out of their daily life as it is and turning back into it a better and more efficient daily living. States, churches, benevolent societies, and individuals are now trying to help these people to establish and maintain such schools, and many interesting experiments in education can be found here. Some of these are wise and successful to a degree. Others, in which the necessary fundamental principles have been omitted, are doomed to failure. All the world knows of some of the larger of these schools, Berea College, the Burns School, and others. The smaller schools maintained by the Seventh- day Adventists, described in the latter part of this book, are not so well known by the outside world. Indeed, they are hardly known by the people who live a few miles away. Yet a careful study of these schools, their spirit and methods, their accomplishments and the hold that they have on the people of the communities in which they are located, as well as of the earnest and self-sacrificing zeal of their teachers, has led me to believe that they are better adapted to the needs of the people they serve than most other schools in this section. They have discovered and adapted in the most practical way the vital prin- ciples of education too often neglected. I can never forget the summer day of 1913 when in company with Dr. Sutherland and Dr. Magan, of the school and rural sanitarium at Madison, Tennessee, I (c) Introduction first visited some of these schools and learned how thor- oughly they had adapted themselves to the conditions and needs of the people. I am sure they are worthy of the most careful study of all who are interested in adapting schools of whatever kind to the needs of the people of all this mountain section and of all the South- ern mountain countries, and that they contain valuable lessons for the improvement of rural schools in all parts of the United States. For the intelligent and sympathetic account of the section and people described, and for the interesting and detailed description of these small schools, and Madison, in which teachers for the small schools are prepared this book has unusual value. I feel sure that many others will find in reading it some part of the pleasure which it has given me. I commend it to all who are interested in any way in the people of these Southern highlands and in helping to improve their opportuni- ties for a better type of education. U. S. Commissioner of Education. Washington, D. C., Nov. 24, 1915 Highlands and Hi " To THE mountains, in time to come, we may look for great men, thinkers as well as workers, leaders of religious and poetic thought, and states- men above all." EMMA B. MILES. THE EXPLORERS THE Englishmen who set foot upon the shores of wil- derness Virginia in the seventeenth century found themselves shut up against the sea by a long range of mountains in the west. Seeking a clear passage through, they might wander in vain far toward the northern confines of Penn's woods and deep into the southern recesses of the Carolina grants. Everywhere the un- known country beyond, which they sought to explore, was shut from their view by the blue, hazy, sentinel line of those mountains. They called them the Blue Ridge. The early settlers believed that these mountains looked out upon the " South Seas." The blue haze that always surmounted them seemed proof that the ocean with its mists lay just beyond, and they thought they had only to find a convenient pass to enable them to embark upon a voyage to the Indies. It was to find such a pass that the valiant and venturesome John Smith, seven months after the landing at Jamestown in 1607, set out on that expedition which ended in his captivity to the sour-looking old Powhatan, and perhaps in his rescue from death by the tender- hearted Pocahontas. Sixty miles above Jamestown, Smith's two companions were surprized and slain by Indians; and he himself, (n) 12 The Men of the Mountains after a plucky fight, was taken captive by Opekan- kano, the brother of the king. He saved his life at the moment by exhibiting to his captor his mystifying com- pass, and following up the effect by a bewitching "dis- course of the roundnes of the earth [and] the course of the sunne, moone, starres, and plannets." The sav- age loves no one so much as an entrancing liar, and evi- dently putting Smith in this catalog, the Indians carried him first to Opekankano's town, where they treated him most kindly. Thereafter he was taken about from town to town, until at last he was brought to the chief vil- lage of the Powhatans, the principal member of a confederacy of the coastal tribes. The head of this confederacy the emperor, as Smith styles him was also the chief of the Powhatan tribe, and was himself called, by distinction, "The Powhatan." 1 Here for some days these two worthy representa- tives of the white and the red races sat exchanging their entertaining tales, each solemnly assuring himself and with some reason that the other believed him. John Smith informed his Indian majesty that the white men, being defeated in battle on the seas by then' ene- mies the Spaniards, had been forced to fly for refuge into the red man's land, and then were compelled to stay there by the leaking of then* ship. Further, he ex- plained, the reason of his expedition up the river was to discover the way to the salt sea on the other side of the mountains, for there his father had had a child slain, whose death they intended to revenge. Not to be outdone, the red man, "after good de- liberation," began to describe that same country upon the salt sea, which he declared lay only just over the mountains, some five, or six, or eight days' journey. So exact was his information that he named the people who had slain Smith's supposititious brother, and told of their relations with other great peoples who sailed the seas. One of these was a man-eating nation, with John Fiske, The Colonization of the New World, p. 246. The Explorers 13 shaven crowns and long queues, and " Swords like Poll- axes." Another wore short coats with sleeves to the elbows, and went in great ships like the Englishmen. These were only a few of the wonders; for there were many other mighty nations, some of them having walled houses and plenty of brass. At last the king, warming to his subject, disclosed the information that his village lay but one day and a half, two days, and six days from various ports upon "the south part of the backe sea." All this at least, along with his safe return to James- town, is told in " Captain John Smith's True Relation," published in 1608, 1 though his romantic story of res- cue by Pocahontas he did not put forth until many years later. How much of this " relation" of the great " backe sea" just over the mountains came from the lips of Powhatan, and how much from John Smith's own fer- tile brain, we may not know; but the account at least explains one cause of the world's persistent faith in the western sea lapping the lower slopes of the Appa- lachian chain. Smith, for the two years he remained in America, continued active in his efforts to find a passage or a path to the South Seas through those mountains. And not Smith alone; for there were many to whom not merely the wealth of the Indies, but the very real ro- mance of discovery, appealed. In the fall of 1608 Cap- tain Christopher Newport, who had commanded the expedition which founded Jamestown, and who had since with his ships kept up communication between England and Virginia, obeyed the injunctions of the London Company by attempting an expedition that should pierce the mountains to the seas. He succeeded, how- ever, in doing no more than to penetrate forty miles above the village of the Powhatan, from which point 1 American History Leaflets, No. 27, pp. 9-17; Narratives of Early Virginia, Tyler, pp. 41-52; Works of John Smith, edited by Arber, pp. 13-21. 14 The Men of the Mountains he and his company returned worn in body and dis- appointed in hopes. 1 The ambition of the London Company, far more than the desire of the sore-pressed colonists, inspired the earliest attempts to pass the mountains. The com- pany's commands were laid upon Captain Newport, on his third voyage, never to return to England without having made at least one of three discoveries: the way to the South Seas, a lump of gold, or a white man from Raleigh's lost colony on Roanoke Island. 2 Newport, however, was compelled to return without accomplishing any one of these three behests, and no doubt his explanation of his failure was greatly helped by John Smith's accompanying "Rude Answer" to a letter of reproach and instruction the company had sent him. In this spirited statement of conditions, Smith laid stress upon the need of establishing a firm basis for the colony by the sending of a good class of settlers, the development of agriculture, and attention to the needs and requirements of the colony, rather than to the immediate enrichment and glory of the company. For a time thereafter, while curiosity may not have lessened concerning the blue heights to the west, and what they might be hiding, the practical lAmos Todkill and others, in "Description of Virginia and Proceed- ings of the Colonie," Tyler, Narratives of Early Virginia, pp. 151, 155, 156; Works of John Smith, pp. 121, 124, 125. 2 Fiske, Old Virginia and Her Neighbors, p. 113; Works of John Smith, p. 121. Sir Walter Raleigh was the first to attempt English colonization in America. He sent an expedition, of men only, in 1585, who settled on Roanoke Island, off the coast of North Carolina. These men, however, returned within a year. In 1587 Raleigh sent, under the command of John White, a better equipped company, which included in its number seventeen women. This company likewise settled on Roanoke Island; and here, on August 18, was born the first English white child on Ameri- can soil, Virginia Dare. White returned to England for supplies, only to find himself in the midst of the Spanish war. It was two years before he could return to the infant colony in America; and when he did arrive, it was only to find a deserted place. And though search was made for many a year thereafter, no certain trace of the fate of this first and un- fortunate colony was ever found. The Explorers 15 energies of the little Virginia colony were absorbed in their local affairs. Through the next quarter century, we catch a note now and then of interest and enterprise toward the west. In 1626 the governor and council of Virginia wrote the English government desiring that provision be made for exploring the mountain country, with the hope of finding passage to the South Seas. 1 In 1641 four prominent gentlemen of the colony applied for per- mission to undertake discoveries to the southwest of the Appomattox River. 2 An Indian report to the gov- ernor in 1648, of high mountains, beyond which were great rivers and a great sea to which came red-capped men in ships, almost induced an expedition thither. 3 The governor at that time was that bluff, enterpri- sing, grasping, ruthless British gentleman, William Ber- keley. He had received from his patron, Charles I, a monopoly of the fur trade in the English colony; and as from the other side of the mountains there now began to come not only furs, but Indians with wondrous tales, Berkeley grew eager to open a route to the over-moun- tain country. Perhaps it would launch him upon the South Seas and the Indian trade; if not, there was profit as great in buying for a few hatchets and handfuls of beads, beaver and fox and otter furs worth thousands of dollars. The governor, though ever upon the verge of going himself to view that good land, never really saw even the base of the mountains; but from 1650 to 1670 he dispatched or authorized several expeditions which, while they discovered no "backe sea/' did open to the view of the English a broader field and a wider oppor- tunity than the South Seas could ever have afforded them. There lived in 1650 at Fort Henry, 4 on the York iAlvord and Bidgood, The First Explorations of the Trans- Alle- gheny Region by the Virginians, p. 45. 8 Id., p. 28. 8 Id., p. 46. 4 Now Petersburg, Virginia. 1 6 The Men of the Mountains River, a captain and merchant of adventurous disposi- tion by the name of Abraham Wood. A servant lad brought over from England, and indentured 1 to a planter for the payment of his journey's expense, Abra- ham Wood had risen step by step until he was one of the largest landowners in the colony, and a principal dealer, under Berkeley, in the fur trade. 3 In 1650 this Captain Wood, with an English gentle- man named Bland, and two others, with white servants and an Indian guide, made the first notable western ex- ploration on record for the English. Their course led them southwesterly; but though they went some dis- tance into Carolina, they did not reach the mountains; and their discovery, supposedly, of a " westward flowing river" helped for a brief time to encourage the belief in a near-by western sea. 3 This view was given weight by the fictions of another explorer, who actually claimed that, in the region of what is now North Carolina, he had stood upon the shore of a sea that stretched westward beyond sight. 4 This man was a German, John Lederer, and the statement above mentioned is from his account of his second exploring expedition. On a former trip he had won the distinction, so far as the records go, of being the first white man to ascend the mountains. In this work of exploration he was encouraged and probably sent by Governor Berkeley. Alone, except for some Indian l An "indentured servant" was so called from the papers which bound him to a stated term of service. Such papers were usually made in duplicate, the two copies being written side by side on the same sheet, and then cut apart in a waved or indented line, for identification. Hence such papers were called "indentures." 2 First Explorations of the Trans-Alleglieny Region, pp. 34 ff. 'Id., pp. 47-51; Discovery of New Brittaine, by Bland, reprinted in Salley, Narratives of Early Carolina, pp. 5 ff. 4 First Explorations of Trans-Allegheny Region, pp. 160, 161. John Lederer's account of his southwestern travels, published in 1672, is reprinted in the above named work. It might be possible, with a little imagination, as one of his editors proves, to harmonize Lederer's accounts with geographical facts, supposing that he understates his distances and perhaps his time, and that he actually reached Florida and the Gulf; but such an interpretation is rejected by Alvord and Bidgood. The Explorers 17 guides, Lederer set out in 1669, and after nine days of travel reached the foot of the Blue Ridge. It took him a whole day to climb the mountain; and then, though he imagined, from the deceiving mists to the eastward, that he could see the Atlantic Ocean, his eye searched in vain to the west; for there he beheld, instead of the great South Sea, nothing but a sea of mountains. 1 There followed, in 1670, his second expedition to the southwest, already mentioned; and a third, in the latter part of the same year, in which he and ten other white men reached again the crest of the Blue Ridge at another point, only to view the discouraging height of the great North Mountain, far up and" across the valley. Not yet was the mystery of the mountains solved. Governor Berkeley next turned to that Captain (now Major-General) Abraham Wood whose first ef- forts we have seen, and commissioned him to make an attempt to "goe further in the discovry." Abraham Wood responded, not by personally heading an expe- dition for he was now, perhaps, too greatly busied with his growing affairs but by fitting out a party under Captain Thomas Batts, with Robert Fallam, two other white men, and an Appomattox chief named Pere- cute. They were later joined by several other Indians of the same tribe. It is possible that Abraham Wood himself had before this crossed the mountains, but the evidence thereof is too vague to make it certain, 2 and so far as records go, Batts and Fallam have the distinc- tion of being the first to reach the waters of the Ohio. 3 Captain Batts and his party crossed the Blue Ridge, and entered the upper part of the Shenandoah Valley near the site of the present city of Roanoke. A few miles l ld., pp. 64, 145 ff. 2 See First Explorations of Trans-Allegheny Region, pp. 52-55; Collins, History of Kentucky, p. 805 ; Shaler, History of Kentucky, p. 59. This expedition of Captain Batts and his party has received scant notice in American histories. If not in extent, at least in significance, it should rank with the journeys of La Salle and Marquette; for by it the 2 1 8 The Men of the Mountains south of this they crossed the divide, and entered the valley of a river flowing northward, which they followed to the present borders of the State of Virginia, at Peters Falls. 1 At this point, their provisions having all been spent for some days, and game being hard to get, their Indian guides insisted on turning back. They were also doubtless influenced by the nearness to a great and fierce tribe of Indians living to the north and west, "on the Great Water, and [who] made salt." 3 These were probably the Shawnees, and their salt works were at the numerous "salt licks" plentiful in Kentucky, though the Shawnees lived north of the Ohio River, and only made short forays into Kentucky. Batts and Fallam, before they retreated, made simple but solemn proclamation that King Charles of England owned these waters and the lands wherethrough they flowed, and they branded five trees with the initials and signs of Charles, Berkeley, Wood, and themselves. As they lingered upon a height, and cast their eyes west- ward, they were persuaded that they saw, "westerly, over a certain delightful hill, a fog arise, and a glimmer- ing light as from water," and "supposed there to be a great bay." Not yet had the myth of the "backe sea" lost its charm. It was considerably later, no doubt, before the reports of the Indians, the investigations English were given such right as discovery bestows to claim the over- mountain country for their king and nation. But so little known have been the sources of this history, and so garbled the account by some early historians, that the foremost American authorities have either ig- nored it or mentioned it only to dismiss it as unreliable. Kven Captain Thomas Batts' name has undergone wondrous transformations in the pages of his few chroniclers, from "Henry Batte" (his brother) in Beverly's "Virginia," p. 62, to "Bolt" in Shaler's "Kentucky," p. 59, and "Bolton" in Parkman's "La Salle and the Discovery of the Great West," p. 5. In a recent and most valuable work, the sources for the history of this expedition, as of other early English explorations, have been gathered and placed in the hands of the public: " First Explorations of the Trans- Allegheny Region" by C. W. Alvord and Lee Bidgood, Arthur Clark Company, Cleveland, 1912. 1 First Explorations of the Allegheny Region, p. 192, footnote. By them this river was named Wood River. It is now known in the upper part as New River, and in the lower as the Kanawha. /