/ N PASSAGE FROM THE PACIFIC TO THE ATLANTIC. t- ò id if / o (^ CSJhi/iajyv^ ,-«■)' Jtaliia J<\/ ^ ■■-V, Yurt/iiUdiutJLX \j.'JuuiciuuftuuftL Soi-mnusi ol-o-xii'/iufut/a J"*^ I'll/or. yrHfpaum> J ^s/fuefim--nU*ra df I'uniitnujna V5/, ^. JapUT S ■; a^^Yàffu 3nt, Said to be _.l JtfM^» ■J^' [jy un t o- i/fi o u s ~tt ot 'live. fll*^ ^^ \ Note /« piit'lishui^ tins Mtif/.the uutiuir does iwt tuiswirtbr die n//r\ti/us.% &t'uii^ pari />i-i/nftd ids oii'/i uii/HtdiitU-nudf foUoH-ititf die mãiii ii'utm- oftit^ Munyii>ri or^imiiimi^i.Htt dur dites iu.- pratfss even iJurv fv luifr t-ala-rdmio muUite scundifíc obsenncdions . 'Jfu a>Utii)Vttl pomtg.hvtfs.&t-, Itavv. beat takeih /ivm iJt^ if.rt Iftiil uiii'muAtion dutt widA be obtaittfJ and th'/n suf/i prvt-ifuslu puldiJihukiJfa/fS as appear to appmjiniat*; nean-st to (At" truth . 5 LougituclL- West ii-oiu Gi-eenwich tí nd-Mici hn .1. Miiniii/ -lll-niiaii-- -V! /.oiuhm Jime !/*<•/ X TIC O C E ^ IT \ .«i^ A^" v. t ^ if *;( r ¥ P f \\ s / .^' PARA. MARAX02Í, (Toi-ÀmAZÒXS^ /f irrcr/nAn /I '/ ^■^ C^' .Jl^ JOURNAL OF A PASSAGE FROM THE PACIFIC TO THE ATLANTIC, CROSSING THE ANDES IN THE NORTHERN PROVINCES OF PERU, AND DESCENDING THE RIVEE MARANON, OR ■A M A Z O-N. 4 •# ^ H BY HENRY LISTER MAW, lieut. r.n. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET. MDCCCXXIX. ^ LONDON : Píintedby W. CLOWES, Stamfoid-street. » • V fc • • DEDICATION. TO VICE-ADMIRAL THE RIGHT HONOURABLE SIR GEORGE COCKBURN, G.C.B., A MEMBER OP HIS MAJESTY'S MOST HONOURABLE PRIVV COLNCII-, AND ONE OF THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTV. Sir, Having risen to my present rank in His Majestj^'s Service under your patronage, I avail myself of this opportunity to express my gratitude ; and I beg leave to add my admiration of that high Professional Character which, throughout a long course of service, as a Captain with Lord Nelson, an Admiral in the Chesapeake, and a Lord Commissioner of the British Admi- ralty, throws out a steady light for the guidance of such as may endeavour to follow in your track. With most sincere respect and gratitude, I have the honour to be, Sir, Your most obedient and much obliged Servant, HENRY LISTER MAW. ^ CONTENTS. Page. Preface . . . , xiii CHAPTER I. Causes which led to the Expedition — Interviews with the Minister, Senor Don Mariategui — Various and contradictory accounts relative to the Interior and the River— Receive Letters from Sir John Gordon Sinclair, senior officer of his Majesty's vessels in the Pacific, from the British Consuls, and from the Peruvian Minister — Embark on board the Peruvian brig Alcanza — Pas- sengers — Outhne sketch of Lima. . . 1 CHAPTER II. Make the Campana, or Bell of Huanchaco, the Port of Truxillo — Description of the Anchorage— Vale and Ruins of the Gran Chimu — Interviews with General Orbegoso, Prefect of Truxillo — Mr. Hinde expresses a wish to accompany me — Description of Truxillo — General Orbegoso grants Mr. Hinde a passport, and gives me letters to the Intendentes of Caxamarca, Chacha- poyas, and Moyobamba— Rate and error of Chronometer- Leave Truxillo — Journey along the coast to Chicama — Com- mence ascending the base of the Andes towards Cascas — Chro- nometer stopped from shaking of the Mules — Description of Cascas — Glen or ravine of the Andes — Pueblo of Contumasa — ^Valley of Magdalena — Ascend the first Cordillera.'and arrive at the City of Caxamarca — Newly raised battalion — Descrip- tion of Caxamarca— Don Mariano Casti'O . . 17 VIU CONTENTS. Page CHAPTER III. Leave Caxamarca— Cross the Pampa and arrive at the Hacienda of an old miner — Ascend the second Cordillera, and meet with numerous springs on the sides of the mountains — Old Peruvian cultivations — Pueblo of Selendin— View of the Maranon run- ning between the mountains — Cross the Maranon at Balsas — Muleteers— Extraordinaiy ridges and pass — Plants common to England— Third Cordillera— St. George's jalca—Leimabamba — Alcalde and his rancho— Sootah — Magdalena II — Proces- sion and recruits — Levanto — Chachapoyas— Curiosity of the inhabitants — Tntendente's inquiries as to ' the capture of the rock' — Information relative to the productions of the Province of Chachapoyas, . . • . 41 CHAPTER IV. Leave Chachapoyas — Journey by moonlight — Toulea — Passage through the Montana — Cross several rivers — Peruvian manner of making Inclosures — Pueblo of Rioca — Pucuna, or tube for blowing poisoned arrows — Moyobamba — Mons. Du Bayle — Miguel Ramos, ahas Michael Ramsay — Vicar-General's report — Padre de la Torre's account of the river Guallaga — Inten- dente's account of the productions of the province of Maynas, also of the pueblos and authorities — Latitude of Moyo- bamba, manner of making observations, &c. — Ball given to celebrate the coming-in of the new year — Markets — Intendente, Mons. Du Bayle. . . . . 65 CHAPTER V. Journey on foot to Balsa Puerto — Manners of the Indians — Pro- ductions of the district. . , . 113 N! CONTENTS. ix Page CHAPTER VI. Embark in canoes — Canoeraen's manner of takinf^ leave of their friends — Numerous banks, trees, &c. — Bring-to a playa for the night — Indians' sleeping tents — Proceed at daylight — Sugar chacra — King of the vultures — Manner of making a meal — Bring-to for the second night — Prints of footsteps in the sand — ■ Indians' preparations — Old and New Muniches — Junction of the Cachi Yaco with the Guallaga — Yurimaguas — Old Gover- nor — Men come down the Guallaga, and from the Ucayali — Proceed down the Guallaga — Santa Crux — Indian method of hunting — Laguna^^Curiosity and manners of the Indians — Governor's account of the productions, &c. of his district — Padre's account — Engage fresh Indians and canoes. . 135 • CHAPTER VII. Leave Lagima — Boys fishing — Bring-to to refit the Apalmacayas — Beans and seeds found in the Montana — Squall — Junction of the Guallaga with the Marauon — Drink the health of his Royal Highness the Lord High Admiral — Opinion respecting that part of the Guallaga we descended — Bring-to for the night — Ourarinas — Night bird — Shooting in the Montana — Sagacity of the Indians — Birds and animals — Sungan'os — Misunder- standing with the Indians — San Regis, old padre— Indian mode of digging a grave — Health and longevity of the natives — Breeze up the Maranon — Junction of the Ucayali — Omaguas — People mostly fishermen — Extraordinary basin — Iquitos — Junction of the Napo— Oran ' libre comercio' — Pebas — Find governor of Iquitos — Disturbances at Iquitos after our depar- ture — Governor of Pebas — His manner of treating the Indians — Yaguas — Palo de Cruz— "Want of clergy — Herd of Roon- sookas on bank below Pebas — Men on playa — Cochichenas — Alligator — New Indian Pueblo — Women chewing yucas for !C CONTENTS. Page making chicha— Squall, precautions and exertions of canoemen — Loretto canoeman taken ill— Musquitoes— Putumayo— Ta- bitinga, the frontier post of Brazil. . 165 CHAPTER VIII. Land at Tabitinga, present passport and British consul's letter to commandante of frontier— Assured of our passage being facilitated— Padre Bruno— Inquiries respecting Peru— Quarters —Conversation relative to the new commandante and our pro- ceeding—Indian Festival — Drs. Spixand Martins— Canoe and Indians from the Ucayah — Paths and chacras in the woods, Indian mode of clearing ground — Description of pueblo and In- ^dians — Pucuna poison — Commandante's equivocation — Visits to padre — Peruvian's engagement with a tigre — Sarsaparilla — Parrots, land tortoises, and monkeys — Vaca marina— Skin of tapir ..... 214 CHAPTER IX. Leave Tabitinga — Meet new commandante — St. Pablo — Difficulty in proceeding — Juez — Padre — Ladrone and crew — Maturai — Iça — Deserted by Indians — Arrangements, Squalls, &c. — Diez Guerrero's chacra — Government galatea — Manteiga log — Meet with river craft — Caissara — Hire three Indians— Remarks on Maranon — Arrive at Egas . . . 240 CHAPTER X. Leave Egas, and proceed down the Maranon — Lake of Peixe Cuna — River Coary — Castanhas, wild cocoa, poison- tree, palms, dyes, &c. — Cudaja — Mouth of the Puru — Mura island— Rio Negro— City of the Barra— Colonel Commandante, Colonel Zany, Dezembargador, and Vicar-General — Barcellos— Build- ings at the BaiTa— Embark in river craft . . 289 CONTENTS. XI Page CHAPTER XI. Proceed áown the Marauon — Description of river craft — Mura Pueblo — The Madeira — Serpa — Negociante and Cabo's con- demnation of the Indians — Passages in sailing-vessels — Shock of earthquake — Extraordinaiy eddies — River Maues — Villa Nova, Commandancia — Old Negro — Manoel Pedro's chacra — Óbidos — Cocoa plantations — Santarém — Seized as prisoners when asleep, and taken back to Santarém — Commandante Mi- litar's proceedings, &c. — Passage down to Para — Guiiipa — Numerous Channels — Resistos — Santa Anna — Igarapé Merim 313 CHAPTER XII. Anive at Para — Application to the President— Investigation — Commandante Militar of Santarém suspended — Vice-consul — — Mr. Campbell — British merchants — Foreign consuls — Capt. Welsh — General das Armas — Colonel of engineers — Former president — Invitations — Deaths — Black Onca — Ball — Baron and Baroness de Baje — French surgeon — Specimens, Tapir — Embark in Brig Douglas for England — Remarks on banks, Sec. — Extracts from Douglas' log — Jom*nal ends . 378 Concluding Remarks . . .417 Appendix . . . . • 453 PREFACE. The cause of my undertaking an expedition across Peru, and down the river Marahon, forms the commencement of my Journal ; my reasons for publishing, it is, I believe, my duty to state here ; and they are as follow : — Having crossed the Continent of South America, from the shores of the Pacific to the Atlantic, by a route little known; having descended the Maranon, the largest river of the world, for about three thousand miles ; and, having been seized as a prisoner by the Military Commandant of a district in Brazil, it became my duty, on my arrival in England, to report what had occurred at the Admiralty. I did so ; mentioning at the same time, that xiv PREFACE. I had some rough notes of a Journal ; these notes I was directed to arrange, and send in. Whilst occupied in preparing my Journal for the Admiralty, some friends recommended my publishing; and feeling that, however deficient I may be in the qualifications neces- sary to become a good author, it is possible my Journal may contain some information that maybe of service to the public, — and, perhaps, tend to the improvement of the countries and the wretched people amongst whom I passed, — I do now publish it, premising, that, far from professing to have discovered coun- tries hitherto unknown, or to have entered into scientific investigations, all I undertake is, to make known such practical remarks as circumstances admitted of my making on such subjects as came within the range of my ob- servation; also, that although I undertook the expedition and left Lima alone, a person PREFACE. XV whom I had engaged to accompany me as interpreter, having become alarmed at the reports which were in circulation at Lima, when my intention was known, I was joined at Truxillo by an English gentleman of the name of Hinde, who had been some years in Peru, in a mercantile capacity, and was master of the Spanish language. This gentleman accompanied me to Eng- land, complying readily with such requests as I thought necessary to make during the pas- sage, and afforded me such assistance as is most valuable, and, perhaps, most esteemed, on occasions similar to those we encountered. N PASSAGE FROM THE PACIFIC TO THE ATLANTIC. CHAPTER I. Causes which led to the Expedition — Interviews with the Minister, Seuor Don Mariategiii — Various and contradictory accounts relative to the Interior and the 'River — Receive Letters from Sir John Gordon Sinclair, senior officer of his Majesty's vessels in the Pacific, from the British Consuls, and from the Peruvian Minister — Embark on board the Peruvian brig Alcanza —Passengers — Outline sketch of Lima. In November_, one thousand eight hundred and twenty- seven^ being about to return from his Ma- jesty's ship Menai^ at Liraa^ to England^ Í was given to understand that a route across Peru^ and down the river Maranon_, though httle known^ was sup- posed to be practicable. I was told that much inte- rest existed relative to the interior of Peru ; that the British merchants trading on the coast were anxious for information ; and that Mr. Ricketts^ his Majesty's late Consul-General^ had entered into an arrange- ment with the government of the Republic to explore the interior — more particularly that part of the river Maranon contained within the limits of the Peruvian territory ; that, in consequence,, an expedition had been planned, and one of the senior captains in the Peruvian navy appointed to command, whilst an English gentleman attached to the Consul-General's B 2 CAUSES WHICH LED [Chap. I. suite was to have assisted in exploring. But obsta- cles had presented themselves ; the arrangement had not been carried into execution ; and Mr. Ricketts was gone to England. It may be imagined that, to a naval officer_, such aá iuhdertakiji^ hbld out great inducements, particu- .*. }a;r]v.at,a, period when opportunities of obtaining dis- tihdtion, or meriting promotion, are difficult to be met ; moreover_, this being principally a water ex- cursion, appeared more calculated for a seaman_, than a landsman. But be that as it may: the account I have given was mentioned to me on board the Menai_, on a Sunday evenings by a mercantile gentle- man with whom I had become acquainted in Lima. I thought of it during the night ; and being aware that Sir John Sinclair, as senior officer of his Ma- jesty's vessels in the Pacific, could not well order me to undertake such an expedition^ especially as Mr. Ricketts had returned to England, I resolved, if my superior officers would give their consent, to make an attempt at my own expense. Accordingly, in the morning, I applied to Captain Seymour, of his Majesty's ship Menai, to know whether he would inquire, for me, of Sir John Gordon Sinclair, as senior naval officer, whether he would sanction my going. With the same kind feeling which he had shown towards me while serving under his command. Captain Seymour endeavoured to dissuade me from the un- dertaking, but said that, if I was determined, he would inquire of Sir John Sinclair, who^, he did not ^ Chap. I.J TO THE EXPEDITION. 3 doubt, would give his consent. Sir John Sinclair did g-ive his consent ; promised to apply for me to Mr. Kelly and Mr. Willimot^ who had been appointed to act jointly as Consuls-General in the absence of Mr. Ricketts; and they applied to the Peruvian go- vernment. In the meantime, I was occupied in Lima endea- vouring to gain information. I made inquiries, and received various accounts from priests, Peruvian officers, some old books^ and Englishmen who had been towards the interior. I had also two inter- views with Senor Don Mariategui, minister of the interior. During these interviews_, the minister said, that it having been the system of the Spa- nish government not to allow information relative to Peru to be made public^ little was known. It had been the intention of the government of the Republic to send an expedition to explore,, and Captain Carter of the Peruvian navy had been nominated for the command, but obstacles had intervened. He believed the vegetable productions of the districts bordering on the Maranon^ and its tributaries the Guallaga and Ucayali^ to be more numerous and more valuable than those of any other part of Peru. He said^ that so far from the government objecting to my expedition^ I might go where I wished ; and that as soon as the route was determined, not only a passport should be made out, but directions given to such official persons as I might meet to afford me every facility. He re- commended my getting a supply of beads, knives, B o 4 SAFETY IN TRAVELLING. [Chap. I. scissors^ fish hooks^ &c. to pay the Indians ; and I received some papers from the minister's secretary, which, I was told, contained the best information the government at that time possessed relative to the in- terior. ^ The tenor of various other accounts differed in the widest extremes. Some persons would have per- suaded me that the passage was scarcely more diffi- cult than a journey from London to Edinburgh ; and that^ after reaching the river, I might descend to the Atlantic in a few days; — whilst others, and they the most numerous, pronounced the undertaking rashness^, and success unattainable. The only information I could glean from such contradictory accounts was^ that it appeared possible a passage might be effected, and that an account of the country through which the route lay was desirable. It is right to state that I had not at this time seen M. Condamine's account. As far as the Peruvian territory extended, I was assured of no obstacle being offered by the govern- ment ; but it appeared possible, that on reaching the frontier^ a difficulty might be presented, in conse- quence of there being no Brazilian consul at Lima^ from whom a passport could be obtained for Para. To obviate this, Mr. Kelly and Mr. Willimot, as his Majesty's consuls, gave me an official letter, stating that I was an officer in his Britannic Majesty's navy^, and calling upon the authorities of all nations in alliance with Great Britain to facilitate my progress to Para. I also received another letter to a similar effect from Sir John Gordon Sinclair. Chap. I.] EMBARK IN THE ALCANZE. 5 The rainy season having- commenced^ and some of the persons to whom I had applied for information being of opinion that the roads were ah^eady impas- sable^ no time was to be lost. I purchased one of Arnold's chronometers from the master of a merchant vessel lying" in Callao ; got together such other instru- ments as time and opportunity would allow ; and_, having received my passport^ with a letter from the minister to General Orbegoso^ prefect of Truxillo, (that being considered the best point from which to cross the Cordilleras to the river,) I embarked on board the Peruvian brig Alcanze^ and on the 30th of November left Callao. The Menai had gone to sea the evening before ; but^ on weighing_, the Alcanze passed at a short dis- tance from the stern of the Doris ; when^ exchanging a signal of recognition and farewell with some of my friends on board the Commodore, I for a time bade adieu to naval routine^ and turned to the new scenes that were opening. The Alcanze had, I believe^ been built at Ber- muda, and was originally called the Charlotte Gam- bier ; she measured about two hundred tons^ was manned principally by Englishmen, had two English mates, and was commanded by a native who had been an officer in the Peruvian navy, and had served under Lord Cochrane. The orders on board of her were given in English ; and she was said to answer better than almost any other vessel for the confined trade on the coast of Peru ; yet she had not more 6 FELLOW PASSENGERS. [Chap. I. than half a cargo, and appeared to depend princi- pally on passengers^ of whom there were between twenty and thirty, including- twelve priests, mostly young men, who had been to Lima for ordination. After sail was made, the master and chief mate, both of whom might with justice be termed able seamen, came, with a sort of naval feeling, to apologize to me for their want of smartness in getting the vessel under weigh, remarking that I must observe a wide difference between their manner of doing things, and the style of a British man-of-war. The apology was, however, unnecessary, as, allowing for the difference between a man-of-war and a merchant vessel, the Alcanze was not badly handled. Getting outside the anchorage, the long swell of the Pacific began to affect the passengers, who, according to the Spanish or Peruvian custom, spread their beds on the quarter-deck, taking entire posses- sion, sleeping, &c. &c. and occasioning an odour that by no means accorded with the taste of a British man-of-war's man. I therefore took my station amongst the seamen on the forecastle, getting- an occasional walk on the gangways when clear. One of the passengers must have equalled, if he did not exceed, the celebrated Daniel Lambert in dimensions. He was young, and had a more than commonly fine countenance. His misfortune appeared to be an en- tire absence of irritability, fear, or ambition ; added to which, his circumstances being affluent, he had no excitement to exertion. He passed the greater part > Chap. I.] CITY OF LIMA. 7 of his existence sleeping*; ate whenever anything good was given to him ; and laughed^ played on a guitar and sang during the remainder. Yet when he did speak_, his remarks were not stupid. Of the other passengers, it may be sufficient to say, they were neither brilliant nor cleanly. My undertaking occa- sionally excited their wonder; which extended to mysterious surmises, when they saw me comparing my watch and chronometer, or working up observa- tions. During the passage we kept in with the land, and had a view of the harbour of Ferrol, which appeared to afford more shelter than any place I had seen on the coast. I made some inquiries of the Master respecting it. He said there was anchorage, but that it was not used, in consequence of there being no fresh water. A few fishermen who Hved there were obliged to get water from another part of the coast. Little of interest occurring at this time, and the impressions I received on first seeing Lima, also called the City of Kings, not having accorded with the ideas I had previously formed, I shall venture to leave the Alcanze under sail forTruxillo, and endea- vour to give an outline sketch of the capital of Peru, and of the former Spanish colonies. The connection which the mind almost naturally forms between the ideas of kings and palaces, the stories spread abroad of the rich mines of Peru, added to the magnificent impressions caused by the 8 LIMA. [Chap. I. recollection of European palaces, or perhaps still more, of the city of palaces in India, had led me to expect a somewhat similar magnificence on beholding* Lima. The fairy tales of golden thrones^ and streets inlaid with precious ingots, we knew were at an end. We were aware that the troubles and outrages of the revolution had even defaced the brilliancy of its churches ; but the buildings were the same ; and although the showy equipages of viceroys, and the proprietors of unbounded wealthy were no longer there to add to the effect^ we still imagined that on seeing Lima we should be struck with admiration, if not surprise ! Such^ however^ was not the case ; and yet Lima is neither badly built, nor deficient in what may be justly termed palaces. The causes of this seeming enigma are as follow : — From the violence of earthquakes^ the public build- ings of Lima cannot^ as in other countries^ and but for earthquakes probably would be here^ be built of those massive, durable materials, and carried to that commanding height, which produces admiration in the minds of beholders. From the dryness of the climate^ added to the dread of earthquakes^, the roofs of the houses are flat^ and made of laths covered with mud. But what has perhaps a more decided effect than either or both of the preceding causes combined^ is, that the principal houses are built rather with consideration to individual comfort and magnificence, than to general display. Each of the principal houses has a square^ or ' pateo/ before it, of which the ^ Chap. I.] PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 9 blank wall and gateway form the street ; and it is only by going- into each of these pateos that a stranger discovers the palaces of Lima. The streets are, in my opinion, far from bad ; they are broad_, and laid out at right angles, forming solid squares of houses, the squares being of equal dimen- sions. The streets are paved ; some of the principal have streams of water running down the middle; they are clean^ and appeared to be swept every morning. There is a *^ plaza,* or open square, one of the solid squares, or ^quadras,' having been left out. In the centre of the plaza is a fountain that supplies the city with water. On the north side is the palace formerly the residence of the viceroy^ now of the president of the republic. It also contains several of the state offices. On the east side is the cathedral^ and the bi- shop's palace; the former of which has lost much of its splendour, by being robbed, in common with other churches^ of its gold and silver ornaments during the disturbances of the revolution. I was told that^ from donations, the wealth of the churches is again reviv- ing; but a decided shock has been given to the power of the priests. The other two sides of the plaza are colonnades^ on which houses are supported, the lower parts being shops. The other public buildings in Lima are_, numerous churches and monasteries^, some of which cover large spaces of ground; — the Senate-house^ where the Con- gress meet daily to debate, and which is well fitted 10 THE INQUISITION. [Chap. I. up ; — the Mint_, which_, though perhaps not so busily engaged as formerly, is still_, at least was when I saw it, actively employed ; — the Custom-house, a large, but not fine, buildings and apparently not particularly well managed ; — a National Library^ which has been long established^ and which contains many volumes of old books^ mostly classics and ecclesiastical : it is said the Spanish government objected to works on modern history and political economy, of which there are few. A small museum^ consisting principally of old Peruvian curiosities and minerals. A large_, but not handsome theatre. A circo de toro, or open theatre,, for bull fights, which is at a distance from the city^ and, to the credit of the Peruvians, now little used. The halls and cells of the Inquisition. These cells were buildings above ground^ ten or twelve feet long by eight or nine broad and high. They had light and air^ and there was nothing horrible in their ap- pearance beyond the idea of a prison. But in the hall of the inquisition, where examinations were held^ were marks against the wall^ where the person who accompanied us as guide said, that an image of our Saviour had stood^ and pointed out a hole in the wall, through which he said (and which indeed ap-. peared to have been the case) that a rope had led. It was, I believe, a wooden pipe^ somewhat similar to the leaden pipes through which ropes lead in a ship's side. The account the guide gave of this hole Chap. I.] VIEW FROM LIMA. 11 was as follows : — In front of the fiofure of our Saviour sat the chief inquisitor; and when a case was brought forward, respecting which there was a doubt or diffi- culty^ the question was put^ ^^ See what the Lord says?" and the rope was made use of to give an in- clination to the head of the figure. This story is too horrible for me to vouch for its truth. I repeat as nearly as possible what I was told^ and state what I saw. The reader must judge for himself On the walls of the cells was much writing, apparently by the prisoners ; in most there were drawings of the Virgin Mary; and in some_, rude sketches of ships. The general term of confinement had been about three years^ the dates being marked on the walls. Lima is a walled city. Outside the walls are several alamedas or promenades, formed by walks between rows of fine trees. There is a well-built stone bridge over the small river Rimac. The view from the bridge, having the river and alamedas in the foreground, and the Andes in the distance, is fine^ particularly by moonlight. The principal fortifications are at Callao, the port of Lima^ which is two leagues from the city. The castles at Callao are strongs and were held by General Ro- dill for several months, after all other parts of South America were lost to Spain. The general made a gallant defence^ though not unattended by cruelty to his own people. I was told, he would send for an officer, and give him a note to convey to the com- 12 THE LIMANIANS. [Chap. I. mander of an inferior battery ; the note giving orders for the bearer's death ! This plan is said to have been repeated so frequently, that the officers, when summoned, anticipated what was to take place. If so, it appears strange that the general was not himself disposed of by some of the note-bearers. He was, however^ on his guard against assassination, and is reported seldom to have slept twice together in the same part of the castle. In my opinion, the principal features displayed in the defence of Callao, were perseverance in not surrendering, and ingenuity in constructing blinds, &c. to protect the garrison ; but had heavy artillery or mortars been used, or even a determined assault been made, I question whether the castles would not have fallen long before they were given up. The republican forces chose rather to invest them, occasionally using (judging from the shot) small field-artillery, which produced little or no effect. Of the character of the Peruvians^ more particu- larly as relates to the treatment of the Indians by the Spaniards, I shall have occasion to speak here- after ; but of the people of Lima I will venture to make some remarks here. The state of blockade in which Spain kept her South American colonies, and the consequent want of all foreign intelligence, and of intellectual employ- ment and improvement, added to the great wealth and almost uncontrolled domestic power oftheLima- nians^ made evident in the strongest degree the pro- Chap. I.] THE LIMANIANS. 13 position^ that the human iniiicl_, when unoccupied by useful and virtuous employment, becomes vicious and degraded. There is every reason to believe that, during the latter part of the Spanish authority, the people of Lima had become most corrupt. Bi- gotry had gone to its extreme length, and ignorance, effeminacy, and vices of the worst description, were common. In such a state they were the last to shake off the power of Spain and demand their indepen- dence. Not that there were no exceptions to so de- graded a character ; but the energies even of those who were aware of their wretched state were weak- ened by habit ; whilst the greater number, sunk in sloth and vice, and ignorant of the advantages of a contrary system, scarcely wished a change. Lima also, as the head -quarters of the power of Spain, was the point in which it was most difficult for the revolutionists to make opposition. Moreover, when the Chilenos and Colombians, having driven the Spaniards out of their own states, sent forces to the assistance of Peru, the Limanians, as they say, found that all who came under the titles of protectors and liberators were not patriots, but that the mines which had formerly attracted the avarice of the Spaniards influenced the conduct of their newly professed friends and allies ; and with bitterness they complain of the executions of several of those citizens who were best capable of rendering service to their country; of the robbery of the little property left them by the Spa- niards ; and still more of the declaration, that they are now unfit for a free government. 14 GENERAL LA MAR. [Chap. I. Having- at length freed themselves from foreign yokes^ and seeing and feeling the abuse of power formerly exercised over them, the Limanians have run into opposite extremes. From having formerly submitted to the most absurd bigotry and supersti- tion^ even so far as to kneel in the streets to a priest passing, some of the rising generation are inclined to scoff at religion^ and ridicule the priesthood. Í Such are, in my opinion^ the causes and effects connected with the character of the people of Lima. It will doubtless require time^ and much exertion,, to bring the national character to a due bearing ; nor do I profess to be sufficiently a politician to state when^ or how, that bearing is to be acquired. But from what I heard^ and saw^ whilst in Peru, it ap- peared to me^ that although the republic was steadily preparing for action^ in case General Bolivar should, as it was reported he would, attack them, the desire was, if possible, to remain quiet, arrange a constitu- tion, and organize the interior. General La Mar, the president of the republic, had the character of being ' an honest man;' and that there was an in- clination on the part of the head of the church to do his utmost, I had an opportunity of judging. The pope had, I beUeve, refused to confirm the appointment of bishops ; and in consequence of the revolution, many of the clergy had left the country, whereby the affairs of the church, in the more distant provinces, had got into confusion. When I was about to leave Lima, I received a letter from the Chap. I.] BISHOP OF MAYNAS. 15 head of the church of Peru, the substance of which was — " Understanding that you are about to proceed through the province of Maynas, I have to request that you will be pleased to inform me of the ecclesiastics who are at present in the * pueblos* (towns or villages) of that jurisdiction ; expressing their names, with those of the ' Curas o Capellanas,' of which they have charge, in order that I may be enabled to make such arrange- ments, as may be for the spiritual welfare of those faithful who are placed under my charge. (Signed) "Francesco N. de Echagar.** During an interview also he complained that_, since the commencement of the revolution, not only many of the curates had left their charges in the different pueblos, but that the bishop of Maynas himself had gone away without leaving any account^ by which the heads of the church of the republic might be enabled to act. He said that, at the moment he was speaking, he was entirely ignorant of the state of the diocese of Maynas ; he expressed anxiety to redress whatever evils might exist ; but that^ until he knew what was required, it was not possible for him to act. One advantage which the Peruvians have gained as an accompaniment to the evils attendant on Peru being the head-quarters of the Spanish authorities^ is, that they are more polished in their manners than the natives of other South American states. Still I do not consider that the saya and manto, worn by the ladies of Lima, and of which much has been said 16 LADIES OF LIMA. [Chap. I. in various descriptions of the city^ set off a fine figure in the manner generally supposed. The saya fits tight round the hips^, but the fi^ont and lower part of the person are not shown to advantage. This cos- tume seems to have originated in depraved taste, and corrupt habits. Since the revolution^ it is getting into disuse. Another peculiarity relating to the dress of the ladies of Lima is, their regard for new and gay shoes, of which they ^ ship' a new pair every Sunday morning ; and it is one of the most amusing sights in Lima to see the ladies on a Saturday even- ing trotting to the shoe shops in a street near the palace^ to make their purchases for the succeeding morning. The following anecdote may in some measure convey an idea of the changes and feelings atten- dant on the revolution in Peru. When the repub- lican forces first got possession of the mint^ dollars were struck^ having for a design the Peruvian arms resting on the tree of liberty : the motto ' Peru libre.' When the Spaniards retook Lima, these dollars were not recoined^ but a large crown struck upon the Peruvian arms and tree of liberty ; still leaving the orig-inal so far unobliterated, that the tree of liberty was discernible. I must now apologize for this deviation_, and beg to rejoin the Alcanze. ^ CHAPTER II. Make the Campana, or Bell of Huanchaco, the Port of Truxillo — Description of the Anchorage — Vale, and Ruins, of the Gran Chiniii — Intervii'ws with General Orhei^oso, Prefect of Truxillo — Mr. Hinde exprtisses a wish to ac- company me — Description of Truxillo — General Orbof^oso <çrants Mr. Hinde a passport, and gives me letters to the Intendentes of Caxamarca, Cha- chapoyas, and Moyobam])a — Rate, and error of Chronometer — Leave Trux- illo — Journey along the coast to Chicama — Commence ascending the base of the Andes towards Cascas — Chronometer stopped from shaking of the Mules — Description of Cascas — Glen or ra\dne of the Andes— Pueblo of Contumasa — Valley of Magdalena — Ascend the first Cordillera, and arrive at the City of Caxamarca — Newly raised battaUon — Description of Caxamarca — Don Mariano Castro. At daylight on the 4tli of December^ we got sight of a hill called the Campana^ or Bell of Huanchaco, distant between four and five leagues ; but the wind being lights we did not reach the anchorage until noon^ when we brought-to abreast the town, or pueblo, of Huanchaco, the port of Truxillo, and about a mile and a half from the beach. The anchorage is entirely exposed ; and the only apparent reason for its having been chosen^ is a low pointy or reef of rocks that extends a short distance into the water^ and^ giving a turn to the heavy surf that breaks upon the coast^ enables boats to land better than in other parts. At a certain season, which I believe is from December to March^ the swell occasionally sets in so heavily^ that vessels are obliged to weigh,, or slip, and stand off the land to c 18 DESCRIPTION OF THE ANCHORAGE. [Chap. II. windward, as, in case they should drift, and get away to leeward^ they might not be able to fetch up again. It has been in contemplation by the government to remove the port a few miles further to the southward^ where there is more shelter. The landing is generally effected in merchantmen's long boats, that have been purchased, and are kept by individuals for the purpose. They are manned by Indians belonging to the port, who are accustomed to the surf, and understand the peculiar manage- ment required in crossing it. The surf somewhat resembles that at Madras^ breaking obliquely, and in general violently towards the shore, over the reef, and a bank at a considerable distance from the beach. When the surf is not very heavy, the boatmen watch the sv^ell^ and seize an opportunity to pass over the outer part of one bank, exactly in a similar manner to that practised by the Mussolah boatmen at Madras ; at other times it is necessary to take a longer passage, by a channel between two banks ; and occasionally there is no communication between vessels and the shore for several successive days. The pueblo of Huanchaco consists merely of a number of huts, belonging to Indians employed in the port, with rather better buildings for the commandante, captain of the port, and an English port agent. On landing, I was met by Mr. Mac- pherson, one of the principal British merchants in Truxillo, and to whom I had letters. My baggage was examined by the officers of customs, sent off ou mules, the usual manner in which cargoes are Chap. II.] TRUXILLO. 19 passed from the port, to the city^ distant about two leagues,, and Mr. Macpherson and myself rode up in the cool of the evening*. The road from Huanchaco to Truxillo lies across a level called the vale of Chimu, three or four leagues in length, by about two in breadth ; the level also extends to the eastward along the banks of the small river Mochi. The soil of this vale, being moistened by the waters of the river, possesses a moderate de- gree of verdure and vegetation, that forms an agree- able change to the dreary waste of rocks, sand, and saltpetre, which, with a few similar exceptions, ex- tends along" the coasts of Chili and Peru. About halfway to Truxillo, the road passes through the ruins of a large Indian city, called the Gran, or the Grand, Chimu ; the chiefs of which are said to have maintained themselves independent of the Incas of Peru. Several of the buildings are still in a con- siderable degree of preservation ; and there are the remains of some large huchas, out of which the Spa- niards are reported to have taken great quantities of gold. The Indians of this vale, or, perhaps more properly, of Huanchaco, appear to be a distinct race from those generally met with in Peru. They were exempted by the Spaniards from paying tribute, in consequence of the information they gave relative to the riches buried in the huchas ; and the present go- vernment have not as yet levied any tax upon them. The morning after arriving at Truxillo^ I waited on the Prefect^ and presented my passport, with the c 2 20 TRUXILLO. [Chap. II. minister's letter. I was received with much civility ; and on reading- the letter^ General Orbegoso assured me of every assistance in his power to facilitate my progress. He afterwards returned my call at Mr- Macpherson's house, when^ repeating* his assurances^ and g-iving me his opinion on various points con- nected with the expedition, he said he conceived I should find one difficulty, in not being master of the Spanish language. I was myself aware of it, and before leaving Lima, had agreed with an English- man, who had been some time in Peru, and under- stood the language, to accompany me as interpreter; but the reports that were in circulation, when my undertaking was known, having alarmed him, I pre- ferred starting alone. On my arrival at Truxillo, the subject was again discussed, when an English gentleman of the name of Hinde, who had also been some time in the country, in a mercantile capacity, and was master of the Spanish language, expressed a wish to accompany me. I thought it right to point out to him what were my intentions, and that it was not improbable there might be difficulties to encoun- ter ; but finding that he did not change his opinion, T was glad to avail myself of his offer. The city of Truxillo is surrounded by a wall built of ^ adobe,' large unbaked bricks. The wall is about five feet in thickness and ten in height, with a parapet or breastv/ork of the same material, and about a foot thick above it. The circumference may be a league and a half; and there are many angles^ but I do not Chap. II.] TRUXILLO. 21 think they form any reg-ular figure. There are five g-ates^ by which as many roads enter the city ; that opposite the Huanchaco road being" the principal. The streets are broad, and cross at risrht an^rles. The houses are in general well built^ with flat roofs, and form solid squares, or quadras^ of equal dimen- sions. Towards the centre of the city is a ^ plaza/ or open square,, with a street entering from each corner^ one of the ^ quadras' having been left out. On the east side of the plaza is the cathedral^ plain in its appearance, and built, like the city walls, of large unbaked bricks ; on the north side is the ^ quar- tell ;' on the souths the prison, with the hall in which the cabildo (city council) meet over it ; and on the west are shops and private houses. There are, I believe^ twelve churches in Truxillo besides the cathedral. Three have monasteries at- tached to them ; two, nunneries ; and one an hospital attended bv monks. In consequence of the frequency of earthquakes^ few of the houses in Truxillo are more than one story high ; and the best houses are built like those of Lima, with an internal square, or 'pateo^' having an arched gateway opening to the street. The prin- cipal rooms are spacious and lofty^ with ceilings of red cedar richly carved. The ^ alameda' forms part of the Huanchaco road outside the s^ate. A daily market is held in the plaza^ to which the country people bring fruity vegetables, poultry^ and meat, excepting beef, which is killed outside the 22 TRUXILLO. [Chap. II. walls by buichers belonging to the city. A curious circumstance is said to attend poor persons' purchases in the market. There being no copper coin in Peru^ and a person not wishing, or perhaps not having, a real to expend for every article^, purchases a real's worth of eggs, with which he or she proceeds to buy an egg's worth of vegetables, from one person^ an egg's worth of something else from another, conti- nuing to market until all is got that is required. The eggs are considered current payment, and in the end are purchased by those who require them for use. There is, I believe, little export from Truxillo, be- sides silver. The imports are, quicksilver for work- ing the mines ; manufactured goods, cottons, &c. from England ; furniture, and sperm candles, princi- pally from North America ; and wines. There are several British merchants resident in Truxillo, and some North Americans. There can be little doubt that the reason usually given for the cities on the western side of America being built a few miles distant from the sea, namely, the attacks of the buccaneers, is correct. But I am inclined to think that the climate has also contributed, inasmuch as there is a haze that extends immediately along the coast, and which is far from healthy. The distance from Callao to Lima is about two leagues by the road ; yet the city can seldom be seen from the anchorage, and I thought I could perceive a consi- derable diíFerence in the atmosphere. It is said that neither the Indians of the Sierra nor the Llama can live on the coast. Chap. II.] JOURNEY TO CHICAMA. 23 On the 10th of December^ having fixed the rate and error of my chronometer^ by morning and even- ing sights repeated daily, the rate being eight seconds five-tenths losing, the error fifty-two minutes five seconds slow of Greenwich mean time^ on the 9th of December ; having made such preparations as were necessary for the riding part of our expedition ; and General Orbegoso having granted Mr. Hinde a pass- port, and given me letters to the Intendentes of Caxamarca_, Chachapoyas^ and Moyobamba^ — about noon we took leave of our friends at Truxillo, and proceeded on our route : the ' requa' consisting of five mules — two for Mr. Hinde and myself, two with baggage, and one for the ^ arriero' (muleteer or guide) . The road led along the coast^ to the northward^ from about a league to a league and a half's dis- tance from the beach^ passing between the Campana, or Bell of Hnanchaco, and the foot of the Andes^ over sand, and occasionally amongst rocks, that rose abruptly out of the earth^, appearing rather to be the summits of immense mountains that are buried_, than small detached hills. Soon after leavino- Truxillo,, we passed some ruins^ belonging to the outskirts of the Grand Chimu; and after going about five leagues^ came to some extraordinary furrows, said, and I believe with truth, to have been made by the constant passing and repassing of mules in the time of the Spaniards. Their number and regularity gave them, at first sight, the appear- 24 CHICAMA. [Chap. II. ance of deep furrows made for agricultural purposes,, but we afterwards saw others which were similar, though not so numerous, and which were evidently tracks. They are a strong proof of the dryness of the atmosphere, and the steadiness of the wind, as it must have required ages to wear them. Where- ever a bank afforded shelter, sand had accumulated under its lee ; and I observed that the ravines or breaks of the Andes facing the south were filled with sand. Six leagues from Truxillo^ and about five o'clock in the evenings we arrived at a collection of ' ranchos/ called the '^ pueblo' (town or village) of Chicama; and having ascertained that we could get shelter for ourselves^ and ^ alfalfa' (a kind of grass) for our mules, we stopped for the night. The ' rancho ' (cottage) at which we took up our quarters w'as pointed out by the arriero. The owner was not at home^ but his wife showed us an apartment that occupied half the rancho, and an- swered the purposes of a parlour, bed-room^ and store^ in which our baggage was deposited ; and then cooked a mess of kid, with ^ picante,' for our supper. Neither knives^ forks^ nor plates^ were given us to eat with^ but silver spoons were pro- duced that would have weighed more than double those generally used in England, although rougher than the commonest iron or pewter. At the time we arrived^ some women from a neighbouring * chacra ' (farm) were paying a visit to Chap. II.] CHICAMA. 25 the people of the rancho. They were on horseback, and rode astride like men. One of the snbjects of their gossip was^ we nnderstood^ respecting- the affairs of an old man who had died a few days be- fore^ at a neighbouring ' hacienda' (estate), and who was reported to have left what was at that time considered a large property in Peru, namely,, from two hundred and fifty to three hundred thousand dollars in cash ; and a sugar hacienda worth sixty or eighty thousand dollars more. He had lived separate from his wife for several years. But a few days previous to his deaths feeling unwell, and that he could not live long, he sent for his wife and told her where the principal part of his money was buried under his sugar works. The pueblo of Chicama is inhabited mostly by the tenants and slaves of the ex-marquis of Braca- monte, who has a house built in the style of a villa, about a mile north-west of the pueblo. Half a mile to the east is a large convent of the order of Merced. Both the convent and villa had olive gardens or plantations attached to them. The trees were large, with branches extending nearly to the ground. They had been planted regularly in rows, had broad walks between them^ with a basin dug round each tree, and were kept clear from weeds and brush- wood. The ex-marquis's hacienda is considered one of the most extensive on the coast of Peru. The pueblo had not much about it that was re- markable. Several herds of goats belonged to it. 26 ASCENT OF THE ANDES. [Chap. II. and appeared to be shut up in ' corals ' (pens) at night. The whole population^ as is general through- out Peru^ retired early to rest. In consequence of the abundance of fleas in the parlour, I preferred taking up my station under a shed outside, where they were still not wanting. The night was clear and starlight, and the novelty of the scene, added to a few considerations as to what was before us, kept me awake after others were asleep. Towards the middle of the night the owner of the rancho re- turned on horseback. Between three and four o'clock, the moon having risen, we proceeded on our journey, and turning from the coast, began to ascend the base of the Andes. The road was bad, and the moon not being clear, we were upwards of two hours in passing the first two leagues. As the day broke the road im- proved. We passed the hacienda of the old man whose affairs had been discussed at Chicama, and throuofh some rather hio^hly cultivated chacras. About eiofht o'clock we arrived at a cluster of ranchos, near one of the ex-marquis's sugar mills, and stopped to breakfast. I here took my chronometer out in order to wind it up, when to my great annoyance I found that it had stopped from the shaking of the mules, whereby not only expense, a little trouble, and some time had been lost, but my hopes of being able to ascertain the longitude of the different places we should pass thix^ugh were destroyed. "N Chap. II.] ASCENT OF THE ANDES. 27 The women of the ranchos seeing- me open my portmanteau to take the chronometer out^ asked if we were pedlers ? and what it was we had broug'ht for sale? They were afterwards very inquisitive to know whether there would be any war^ and what the government were going to do? They said their husbands had been ordered out to drill as militia- men^ and the work in the chacras was stopped in consequence. Some negroes, slaves to the ex-marquis, were cutting cane for the mill which was at work. The slaves were not numerous, and those belonorinsr to the ex-marquis were all I saw in Peru ; but I believe there are others, more especially in the southern provinces. Some horses and mules were in fine condition ; and two large fat oxen were drawing a cart filled with wood for the mill. The cart was rudely made, and the wheels far from being perfect circles. After leaving the ranchos, we passed for several leagues up the valley of Chicama, extending, in this part, to the northward and eastward. The valley is watered by a small river of the same name. During the rains in the Andes^ part of the waters of the river are discharged into the sea^ but at other times they are. all used for irrigation. We passed several chacras^ and about noon reached one^ near which was a chapel. The day was excessively hot_, and we got some water-melons to quench our thirst. 28 CASCAS. [Chap. II. The road^ or track, now left the valley^ and passed over and amongst sand and large stones ; until^ as the sun was setting, we crossed a beautiful little valley^ and entered the pueblo of Cascas as the bell was rinofing- for ^ orations.' We went directly to the governor's house, and found him sitting upon a bench outsidO;, without his jacket, enjoying the cool of the evening. He had been informed of our coming, and showed us into a large, though not highly finished room, in which our baggage was placed^ with some military stores_, heads of lances, bits, spurs, buckles for saddles, &c. belonging to the government, which had come from Caxamarca, and were waiting to be forwarded to Truxillo. After giving us possession, and ex- pressing his surprise at our having come twenty leagues with cargo mules over such a road in one day, the old gentleman left us to ourselves, except- ing when curiosity tempted him to come in and ask a few questions. As we had to change mules at Cascas, we could not get away before eight or nine o'clock in the morning, and before starting walked out to see the pueblo. Most of the men had gone to their chacras, or were employed in the ^ corals ' (inclosures, orchards, or farm-yards). The women were standing in front of their houses, spinning cotton on a slender piece of wood, about a foot long, which they twisted with the fingers of the right hand_, drawing the cotton with the left, from a stout > Chap. II.] CASCAS. 29 stick cut with three branches^ as legs for it to stand upon^ and a short spUt at the other end in which the cotton was placed. The pueblo of Cascas stands on a rising* ground^ in a small valley, that forms the extreme of a glen or ravine of the Andes. The houses are neither large nor well built, but superior to ranchos. The streets were, perhaps, originally laid out in quadras, as appears to have been the case generally through- out the towns of Peru, but order has not been at- tended to in building. There is a plaza, on the east side of which, and on a steep but not high bank, stands the church, which is quite plain, and of a moderate size. The other sides of the plaza are not regularly built. Most of the houses have gardens or orchards attached to them, and the shade of the trees has a cool and refreshing effect. — Cascas is noted for a variety of fruits, with which the market of Truxillo is partly supplied ; and for the manufacture of cot- ton ponchos. As soon as the mules were ready, we took leave of the governor and departed, the road leading up a ravine. Before getting clear of the pueblo, the arriero was stopped by some of his female acquain- tance with letters and messages to friends at the next place we were to pass through. The sides of the ravine were clothed with wood, except where the rocks w^ere too bare and abrupt to admit of it ; and a small stream ran along the bottom. About a 30 CONTUMASA. [Chap. II. third of the way up^ we passed a mill for grinding corn^ the wheel of which was turned by the stream. Continuing by a narrow winding path cut in the side of the ravine, about two-thirds up we passed some chacras. Above these there was a considerable difference in the temperature of the atmosphere^ and the plants varied from those of the valley. The trees were not large, and appeared to be much in- jured by the parasitical plants that grew on their branches. Shortly after noon we reached the top of the ridge, when a new scene opened upon us. The ground was here covered with grass and fern, and we heard and saw partridges ; whilst, at a distance, we noticed several condors, the magnificent vultures of the Andes. As we proceeded, the soil changed to a red clay ; we then began to descend towards the pueblo of Contumasa, and passed numerous blackberry bushes, resembling those of England. The berries were not ripe, but were turning red. About two in the afternoon we arrived at Contu- masa, and stopped at the house of a farmer, w4iere a room was given us ; and having taking off our ponchos, we went to wait on the governor, show our passports, and ask for mules to proceed to Caxa- marca. The governor, who did not appear a particularly energetic character, informed us, that, it being the annual feast, or wake of the pueblo, the muleteers would not go on that day ; but, after some urging, Chap. II.] CONTUMASA. 31 promised that we should have mules early in the morning. Passing' through the streets^ we met several groups going about in masks, performing the old Indian dance_, handed down from the time of the Incas ; the music consisted of the ancient drum, and a kind of pipe, or flute. When they stopped to dance, it was in an irregular circle, and there was more noise than either grace or harmony in the whole performance. Knowing us to be strangers, they wanted money to buy chicha, (a fermented liquor made from Indian corn,) and afterwards wished to pay a compliment by dancing round us. We declined the honour, and returned to the farmer's house. In the evening, a play was performed on a plat- form erected for the purpose in the plaza, the audience taking their stations on old ponchos, and cloths spread on the ground. The performance was, in all probability, quite as original as the old classic tragedies represented on similar stages, and I wished much to have witnessed it, but was too unwell. The inhabitants of Contumasa are remarkable for the ildrness of their complexions, and the women for their beauty, some of them having a fine fresh colour. Whatever may have been the cause, whether their personal appearance, or the manners introduced by their late masters, they cannot justly be celebrated for their chastity. A very pretty unmarried daughter of the people at whose house we stopped^ about 32 CONTUMASA. [Chap. II. eighteen or twenty years of age_, had a child at her breast^ which the grandmother, a respectable looking^ white-headed old dame, whose character stood high in the pueblo^ did not appear to consider incorrect. The old woman was evidently much more surprised at the changes that had taken, and still were taking, place in Peru. To dispute the authority of the king of Spain was almost beyond her comprehension ; and she ap- peared to consider it not a little strange, that a British officer should be travelling across the country : her neighbours^ she said, asked where he came from. The case was different with the younger generation. The district round Contumasa consists principally of small plains between and on the summits of some of the lower ridges of the Andes^ on which wheat and barley are raised for the consumption of the pueblo^ and the overplus sent to the market of Truxillo. The climate is agreeable, even in the heat of the day ; and being the first part from the coast, on our route, at which rain falls in considerable quantities, not only the appearance of the country, but the style of building of the town, is entirely different. The houses of Contumasa are built of ^ adobe,' made of red clay, having sloping' roofs with tiles, and gable ends. One long street runs at the side, and near the bottom, of a ridge, with two or three smaller streets leading out of it. Near the middle is the plaza, on one side of which is the church. At a dis- tance, Contumasa has the appearance of a second- rate English country-town. Chap. II.] MAGDALENA. 33 The mules were not ready so early as the governor had promised^ but we got off iu tolerable time ; and soon after leaving the pueblo^ began to ascend ridges higher than those we had passed the day before. During the forenoon we had light rain, which lasted for about three hours. When it cleared off, the weather became agreeable, and not in the least too warm; whilst the rarity of the atmosphere tended greatly to elevate our spirits. The scenery of the Andes also became most maofnificent. Í could com- pare it to nothing but a vast sea of mountains ; the heavy broken sea off Cape Horn being as trifling in comparison as the bubbles of a fish-pond are to that sea! The soil was loamy, but not deep. We passed a few chacras that appeared to be principally for feed- ing cattle, and occasionally saw a few trees growing in the vallies. In passing one of the small inter- mediate ridges, the road was cut through a vein that looked like coal. About two in the afternoon, we began to descend by a zigzag path into the deep and narrow valley of Magdalena, at the bottom of which a river of the same name runs towards the Pacific. We pushed on, leaving the arriero to follow with the cargo mules ; but the descent occupied nearly three hours, although the range is not equal to the one on the opposite side of the valley. Whilst descending, several condors hovered round us, and about the rocks on which they build their D 34 MAGDALENA. [Chap. II. nests ; but so vast was the scale of the rocks and mountains,, that even these immense birds appeared quite insignificant, and I doubted for a time that they were condors. There were two kinds of condors ; one dark brown^ the other white on the back^ with half the upper side of the wings next the back^ and a white ring round the neck. Having got into the valley, we crossed a bridge over the river^ where it forces a passage between two very regular rocks^ on which, at the height of about forty feet from the water, half a dozen trees were placed horizontally^ with cross pieces of wood^ canes^ and earth on the top. In crossings the bridge had a tremulous motion or spring that might have been unsafe with animals not accustomed to it, espe- cially as there were no side rails. There was a ford higher up the river ; but having to call at the go- vernor's house^ which was a short distance from the pueblo, this was the nearest road. The governor was not at home ; we therefore left a message, saying who we were^ and that we had called to show our passports, and rode on to the pueblo. We had at first some difficulty in getting anything to eat^ but got a fowl through the alcalde^ to whom we applied officially, and who, with great gravity, and bearing a long wand of office, marched out with a real in his hand to purchase one. Some tops of sugar cane were got as fodder for the mules ; and the quarters not being desirable, and as we Chap. II.] MAGDALENA. 35 wished to start early, we pitched a tent that had been made for me before leaving Callao. The verdure of the valley of Magdalena was rieh_, producing- sugar-cane, plantains, and various fruit trees. The pueblo consisted of little more than a few ranchos^ with a churchy and a small house near it^ in which the curate lived. It is not considered healthy^ being particularly subject to tertiana. At midnight, the weather being fine,, though dark^ we saddled our mules^ got the baggage fixed by the light of a lantern, and proceeded to ascend the first Cordillera. We had at first some difficulty in finding the way from the place where we had pitched our tent ; but the arriero going firsts we followed^ trust- ing rather to our mules* instinct than to our own sa- gacity. The path was narrow^ and as far as we could discern in the dark^ the precipices steep and high. About two hours from the time we started, we passed a chacra in a hollow of the side of the cordillera ; and as the morning began to break when at a considera- ble distance above, we heard the cocks crow distinctly, the rarity of the atmosphere occasioning sound to rise in an extraordinary manner. Shortly before sunrise, having been continually ascending, we felt the air sharply cold, although we were thickly clothed. We did not reach the *^ jalca/ or summit of the cor- dillera, until nine o'clock. The level of the jalca was covered with rank grass. Several strata of rock of which the mountain is composed terminate in rough narrow ridges, whilst others form clusters of pillars d2 36 DESCRIPTION OF CAXAMARCA. [Chap. II. that stand perpendicular from twelve to twenty feet high. It is the continuation of this cordillera about four- teen leagues to the n,w. that forms the cerro of Gualgayoc^ famous for its silver mines, which were visited by Baron Humboldt. Soon after attaining the jalca, we got sight of the city of Caxamarca situated on a pampa of the same name. The view was pleasing ; the pampa in parts nearest to the city was divided by hedges and rows of trees, whilst herds of cattle were feeding on the more distant and open parts. The houses of the city were tiled, whitewashed^ and built in quadras, and several large churches w^ere discernible ; with a plaza in the s.e. quarter. The whole had much the effect of European scenery. We arrived in the city between ten and eleven o'clock in the forenoon, and went to the house of Don Mariano Castro, late prefect of Truxillo^ who happening to be at Truxillo at the time I landed^ had very handsomely called and given me an invitation to his house at Caxamarca. After being introduced to the family, which consisted of Donna Castro, her two sisters the Senoritas Isabel and Manueala_, the young ladies' mother, and four fine children of Don ?viariano's, we breakfasted^, changed our dresses, and called on the intendente to shew our passports, and present General Orbegoso's letter. The intendente was not within ; we therefore left the letter and passports with our direction, but Chap. II.] COLONEL XIMENES. 37 saw nothing* of him until we went to call for our pass- ports before leaving Caxamarca. In passing through the streets, we saw a drove of fine cattle coming in from the country, forming part of a levy ordered by the government for defensive operations^ in case General Bolivar should, as was rumoured, attempt to invade Peru. We also saw a newly-raised battalion drilling in the plaza, under command of Colonel Ximenes_, military commandant of Caxamarca. A company of Colonel Ximenes' veteran battalion had been sent to act as non-com- missioned officers and fugle men ; and no exertion appeared to be wanting on the part of the colonel, his officers^ or veterans^ to render the new levy effective. The battalion at the time we saw it con- sisted of about a thousand men, including the veterans and a band of fifty musicians, but all the recruits had not arrived. The new men had not received their accoutrements, but all the tailors and smiths in Cax- amarca were employed about them, and they were nearly ready. The veterans were clean and soldier- like in their appearance. Colonel Ximenes is esteemed one of the best officers in the Peruvian ser- vice. One night, during our stay at Caxamarca, two of the new men deserted. Both the officers of the guard were immediately put under arrest, although one of them, a young man, was said to stand high in the colonel's opinion. Early on Saturday morning I took my chronome- ter to a man who had the character of being a clever 38 HOT SPRINGS. tChap.IIi watch-maker ; but, after expressing great surprise and admiration at the works^ I found he knew nothing of chronometers^, and the shght hope I had entertained of re-establishing a rate and error was at an end. I afterwards took sights with an artificial horizon for ascertaining the latitude by double altitudes. The reflected angle of the sun's altitude at noon thus near the equator being too great for a sextant to measure. The double altitudes worked by Dr. In- man's method and with his tables^ made the latitude of Don Mariano's garden T 3' 26" s. Fahrenheit's thermometer ranged at 66°. Caxamarca is noted for having once possessed a palace of the Incas ; for its hot springs, and for its smiths, who are considered more numerous and better workmen than those of any other place in Peru. The only remains of the palace are a few stones, that now form part of the wall of an inferior dwelling- house. They are smooth, and fit closely together_, but not square. They are supposed to have been hewn with instruments made out of a mixture of tin and copper^ as some such instruments have been found. It is reported to have been from his baths at the hot springs, about a league to the eastward of the city, that the Inca Atahualpa was carried on a throne of solid gold to meet the Spaniards. It is also re- ported^ that when the Spaniards were making them- selves masters of the country, the Peruvians, finding they were unable to oppose them, threw the golden Chap. II.} CHURCHES— INHABITANTS. 39 throne into the crater of the boiling springs, to pre- vent its falling into the hands of the conquerors. Some years since two rich Spaniards cut a canal to drain the crater, and get out the throne^ with other treasures that were supposed to have been hove in. They did not consider that it was deeper than a canal could be cut, and the attempt failed. The churches of Caxamarca were celebrated for the quantity of gold and silver ornaments they pos- sessed previous to the revolution. They are further remarkable for being of stone richly cut ; and still more, as the four principal ones remain unfinished. The inhabitants have the character of being strict in their attention to religious services. The streets are paved with large round stones. A daily market is held in the plaza, and is attended by people from the country. The bread of Caxa- marca is famous for its whiteness and excellence ; it is made from wheat grown on the pampa, on which considerable quantities of barley and a few potatoes are also raised. The crops are much injured by frosts ; they are calculated not to escape oftener than once in five years, and the pampa does not dp more than supply the city, in consequence. On Monday the 17th of December, through the interest of Don Mariano Castro, we got five tolerable horses and a mule, with an arriero. But I should scarcely be correct in departing from Caxamarca without giving some account of the family with whom we had been living since our arrival. Don Mariano Castro is, I believe, generally re- 40 DON MARIANO CASTRO. [Chap. II. spected throughout Peru, but his character is more particularly known in those provinces which he lately governed ; and throughout them his strict honour to the higher classes, his benevolence to the poor, and his justice and humanity to all^ have obtained for him the appellation of the * Good/ What further proves that such is not merely an honorary title conferred on the late prefect^ is — that whenever any unforeseen difficulties or unhappy occurrences take place amongst the principal families^ Don Mariano Castro is^ if possible, applied to. I had accident- ally an opportunity of hearing a poor person express his opinion regarding him. The day after landing at Truxillo I was walking through one of the streets with Mr. Macpherson^ when we passed an old lame negro^ talking somewhat loudly to himself. In passing, the name of Don Mariano Castro attracted Mr. Macpherson's attention, when he heard^ ^^ We are going to lose Don Mariano, the friend of the poor." Although a friend to free government and a supporter of the independence of Peru_, Don Ma- riano Castro is said to be far from a violent revolu- tionist. A disagreement with general Bolivar is rumoured as the cause of his resigning his office of prefect. Of his family it may be sufficient to say they evinced the warmest regard and respect to- wards him^ which was evidently reciprocal. Donna Castro had been pretty, and her sister Isabel might have shone as a belle in an English ball-room. We experienced the most genuine hospitality from all. 41 CHAPTER III. , Leave Caxamarca — Cross the Pampa and arrive at the Hacienda of an old miner — Ascend the second Cordillera, and meet ^vith immerous springs on the sides of the mountains — Old Peruvian cultivations — Puel)lo of Selen- din — View of the MaraSon nmning between the mountains — Cross the Maranon at Balsas — Mideteers — Extraordinary ridges, and pass — Plants common to England — Third Cordillera — St. George's jalca — Leima- bamba — Alcalde and his rancho — Sootah — Magdalena II — Procession and recruits — Levanto — Chachapoyas — Curiosity of the inhabitants — In- tendente's inquiries as to * the capture of the rock' — Information relative to the productions of the Province of Chachapoyas. About noon on the 17th of December_, we left Caxamarca, and crossing the pampa in the direction of the hot springs, passed over a rugged ridge to a a second, higher,, and less fertile pampa^ named Polloc. The road here was tolerable, leading over short rank grass ; and about five o'clock, having come six leagues, we stopped at the hacienda of an elderly man, the proprietor of some mines, and who had been fortunate enough to obtain a prize in the lot- tery of mine-working. He received us very coolly, and asked where we came from, and were going to. But findino^ Mr. Hinde understood somethino- of mines as well as himself, he began to thaw, entered into a lonof discussion with Mr. Hinde rela- tive to mining affairs, and offered us some refresh- ment for ourselves, and pasture for our mules. 42 ASCEND THE [Chap. III. We determined on starting early, and between two and three in the morning I roused Mr. Hinde. We went to seek the arriero_, who was sleeping near where his beasts fed. After searching for some time^ and getting clear of various parties of dogs that sallied out from some ranchos, we found him near a fulling-mill worked by water, about a mile from the place we had stopped at. Having got the baggage fixed^ we proceeded. The road was much worse than that we passed over the day before ; and in getting up a steep rugged ridge towards daylight^ one of the cargo horses fell twice. Fortunately, though steep, it was not a preci- pice, and no material accident happened. Soon after both the road and the country im- proved; and we cast the cargo horses adrift_, and drove them before us. During the morning we passed several herds of brood mares^ some of which had the tops of their ears cut off as a mark. We also saw more birds than usual ; a variety of water- fowl were swimming on a natural pond not quite a mile in circumference ; and numerous stone-peckers about the size of an English thrush^ with long bills^ and of a green and gold colour^ were standing on the rocks or flying along the grass. Between nine and ten o'clock we ascended the second Cordillera ; and had scarcely reached the summit_, when we began to fall in with numerous springs on all sides of the mountains. A small circle of trees and brushwood marked the position of each Chap. III.] SECOND CORDILLERA. 43 spring,, and their waters uniting, formed mountain streams that rushed along the valleys ; and^ I ima- gine^ form some of the various sources of the western- most branch of the Maranon. We here also com- menced and continued to observe evident and extensive marks of old Peruvian cultivation^ the furrows or ridges of which had rather the appearance of the crops having been lately reaped than of having lain dormant for ages^ proving that this fine district must^ at some period^ have supported many thousands of inhabitants, whilst at the time we passed all was desolate ; some herds of brood niares and a few cattle^ in fine condition^ being the only marks of modern occupation that we saw during a ride of several leagues. It is^ I believe, but too well ascertained, that the Spaniards, having driven the Indians from this and other agricultural districts to work in the mines, reduced the population of Peru from about ten millions, which it is supposed to have been at the time of the conquest^ to its present estimate of two millions. The soil, of which I took some specimens, appeared to be loamy and fit for raising corn ; it was covered with fine grass, on which the cattle fed. There were several hollows on the Cordillera, which^ from their appearance^ I supposed to have been craters ; I also took some of the rock from about them^ but it is considered cal- careous. The old Indian cultivations did not appear to have extended up to these hollows. As we de- scended the Cordillera we saw a few ranchos^ in- 44 SELENDIN. [Chap. Ill, creasing in number as we approached the pueblo of Selendin ; yet so scanty was the population even here, that some small rich pampas^ which appeared scarcely to require cultivation to raise supplies, were not wholly tilled. About half past one in the afternoon we arrived at Selendin^ and went to the governor's house_, but were informed that the Intendente of Caxamarca had not, as he told us he had, sent notice to the gover- nor of our comings and the consequence was, we had some difficulty in getting mules to proceed on that day. As it was, the governor exerted himself ; and the mules we started on not being good, he gave us an order for six belonging to a drove that were on the road to fetch government cargoes from Chacha- poyas. About three o'clock we were again under weigh, and after passing along a level for near a mile from the pueblo^ began to ascend a steep rugged ridge^ up which the road was bad, and the mules not being good, and rain commencing^ we got on but slowly. The pueblo of Selendin^ standing- in a fine but not large pampa, consisted of little more than a collection of better kind of ranchos, with a church, a house for the Padre, and another for the governor. Whilst the mules were preparing we called on the Padre, with a letter from Don Mariano Castro. He was engaged teaching some of the children of the pueblo. He received us civilly, but tried to dissuade us from proceeding that afternoon^ as he said the ^ Chap. III.] THE MARANON. 45 roads were bad_, and would be impassable after sun- set. We were^ however, afraid of the rains putting a stop to our journey^ and determined on losing as little time as possible. At the governor's we saw some of a levy of horses that had been required by the government^ and were brought in by the coun- try people for the governor's inspection ; they were generally not good. ^. We reached the top of the rugged ridgé a little before sunset ; and it was from this point we first got sight of the Maranon. I cannot conceive that anything on earth or water could exceed the grandeur of the scenery ; nor do 1 belie^ye any person capable of describing it justly. The rain was clearhig off, whilst a perfect and brilliant rainbow was extended across the river ; which^ about sixty yards in breadth, rushed between mountains whose summits, on both sides, were hid in the clouds, on which the extremes of the rainbow rested. We pushed on determined, if possible, to reach the Balsas that night. The guide more than once begged that we would stop, remonstrating that the road was bad ; but we got down the steepest part of the descent before dark, and the Indian was com- pelled, partly by threats and partly by encourage- ment, to proceed until about eight o'clock, when it being so thoroughly dark that we could scarcely see each other, we got entangled among some trees. The guide protested he had lost his road, and we were obliged to stop for the night. The ground 46 THE MARANON. £Chap. III. was too hard to pitch the tent properly, and it again rained, but we got a fire lighted^ and boiled some chocolate. Before daylight we were again on the road_, and reached the western bank of the river by nine o'clock. But the governor being absent from the pueblo, and not having left any one to examine our passports^ we were detained about an hour and a half before the * balsa,' or raft^ came to ferry us over; and as long on the opposite side before we were allowed to remove our baggage to a rancho — during the whole of which time we were exposed to the rays of a scorch- insr sun. The balsa on which we crossed was made of about a dozen small trees^ of what is called balsa- wood; the thick ends were placed together^ and lashed ; logs placed athwart ships on the top, and others again fore and aft_, for baggage^ &c. to be placed upon. The balsa was drawn well up the stream by ropes, and managed with paddles in cross- ing. The men, four in number, sat close to the fore^ which was the broad end. The Maranon is not navigable in this part. A little above the ferry it descends over a sloping bed of large gravel ; and at a short distance below, it is said to be fordable on horseback. Further down there are reported to be cataracts. The valley is extremely narrow in some parts, barely affording sufficient breadth for the river. Abreast the ferry there are small banks,, on which the most luxuriant verdure is produced. A variety of Chap. III.] MULETEERS. 47 fruits are raised in great perfection^ with plantains of a remarkable size. The pueblo consists of only a few ranchos, with a church, and is inhabited principally by ^ El Gover- nador/ the curate, and the governor's myrmidons, the ferry-men. Being seldom visited by persons of much consequence, they treat passengers rather coolly. After reading our passports, the governor would have been as well satisfied had he not kept us waiting quite so long, especially when I informed him it was not improbable the prefect would hear of his attention. About two o'clock, the mules we were to proceed on came up, and we again started. The road for half a league led along the bed of what, during the height of the rainy season, must be a considerable stream ; at the time we passed, only a small channel of water ran down the middle. The sides of the bed were as even and perpendicular, for about eight or nine feet high, as if they had been built ; above, the ridges were steep and craggy. We afterwards as- cended by a winding path, and in the evening reached a tambo, where a drove of mules, travelling towards the coast, had arrived before us. The arrieros, having unloaded their mules, turned them loose to feed, and placed the packs and few cargoes they had brought, ready for the morning, lighted fires, cooked some jerked beef for their supper, and after laughing at some noisy stories, made their beds on the ground, and slept for the night. Mr. Hinde and myself pitched 48 EXTRAORDINARY RIDGES. [Chap. III. the tent^ and my spurs were off for the first time since leaving" Caxamarca. In consequence of the number of mules to be sad- dled, it was eight in the morning before we could get off. We had also found during' the afternoon's jour- ney^ that the party was too numerous to be expedi- tious ; we therefore offered the two arrieros to whom the mules we used belonged^ to pay something extra, provided they would leave the others, and go on — to which they agreed. During the forenoon, the track led along the sum- mits of high ridges, that were in some parts not more than three or four feet broad at the top, gradually widening towards their base, but still so steep and narrow, that Ihey rather resembled immense walls than mountains — whilst from their height, and the haziness of the weather_, we could not see the valleys at the bottom. After getting beyond these, we came to a steep narrow path, cut principally amongst the rocks of a rugged ridge. There was barely room for the mules to tread at the bottom ; it widened where our feet should have come, but so sparingly, that the defence of wooden stirrups was not sufficient, and we placed our legs over the mules' necks to avoid being jammed. The rock on each side was much above our heads^ and the pass near a mile in length. After getting out of it, we came to a small level covered with grass, amongst which were mushrooms. We stopped for a few minutes to rest the mules, and, again ascend- Chap. III.] ANDES. 49 mg, passed up and along the side of a ridge ; then ascended and descended amongst trees and various other plants,, some of which were common to Eng- land. We observed the alder, lupin, blackberry, honeysuckle, yellow broom, fern, heather, and an abundance of what the country-people in England call buttercups. Plants common to tropical climates did not appear numerous. A few cattle in fine con- dition were feeding amongst the trees ; and we passed some tambos, but saw no permanent human habita- tions. We were still in the clouds, and had occasionally light rain. Towards noon we got beyond the clouds, and saw the jalca of the third Cordillera above us. It now appeared that the jalca was surrounded by a belt of woods, on which the clouds hung. The soil of the jalca is black or bog earth, covered with grass, and an abundance of bushes, loaded with berries. A solitary horse was all we saw feeding. Innumerable springs, with their streamlets, poured down the sides of the jalca, the waters of which were clear as crystal. We had now reached the summit, and this being the highest part of the Andes we had or should pass over, according to a previous arrangement between ourselves, Mr. Hinde and myself dismounted and drank a long and prosperous reign to his Majesty, King George the Fourth. We also took upon our- selves to name the pass ""St. George's Jalca." E 50 DESCENT. [Chap. III. There was a fine fresh breeze^ and Fahrenheit's thermometer stood at 50° after being- a short time exposed to the wind. At a distance to the northward we again observed traces of old Indian cultivation^, with a road higher than that we were about to descend^ and which is not now used^ leading- along the summit towards them. Descending from the jalca^ the soil soon changed from black or bog earth, to a more loamy nature, and we passed a few old inclosures that had apparently been small and detached. Continuing to descend by a staircase sort of path, down which the mules jumped rather than walked, we came to a tambo, at the entrance of a narrow but rich valley. The soil here was covered with fine grass, fern^ and buttercups. A small, but not rapid stream ran down it ; and there were trees sufficient to form a shade without the ground being choked by them. A few cattle were feeding. Again passing, for a short distance, over bad road, the valley became wider, the cattle more numerous, and the stream broader. There was something in this valley that had much the aspect of England, excepting that one comparatively inconsiderable grazing chacra was all we met with during a ride of five or six leagues. We saw the ruins of some old Indian building-s that had apparently been more numerous. The soil here began to contain whitish limestone ; and as we left the valley and passed through a small Chap. III.] LELMABAMBA. 51 but fine wood^ it increased^ in proportion, until, reaching the pueblo of Leimabamba, it formed the principal part of the rock or soil. Rain had commenced as we entered the wood, and fell heavily before we reached the pueblo, the streets or lanes of which were filled with deep mud. We were informed that the rainy season had here set in decidedly for some time. (Dec. 20th.) We went to the rancho of the alcalde, a cleaner looking- one, standing on a grass square or plaza, at which we first applied, being occupied by a sick person ; and the whole building consisting of only one small apartment, they could not accommodate us. The alcalde received us very readily, and gave us a share of his rancho, with several other animate and inanimate beings that had previously got posses- sion. An Irish cabin would have been both clean and orderly in comparison with this magistrate's rancho. When asked why he did not build a better house, materials being so plentiful, he shrugged up his shoulders, and said, partly in Spanish and partly in some Indian language, that *^ they were a set of unfortunate devils, and that the country had been unsettled." In the morning the arrieros complained that their provisions had been taken, and I missed a light poncho, made out of an English shawl ; all know- ledge of it was denied, and the only redress we could obtain was, that being in want of an ox-hide to E 2 Õ2 LEIMABAMBA. [Chap. III. cover the bagg-age^ we got one for which only two reals was required, that being its value. The district of Leimabamba is considered rich^ and is better cultivated than most parts of Peru. The principal productions are wheats maize_, and po- tatoes. From the appearance of the inhabitants I should not suppose it is healthy ; and Mr. Hinde remarked that a hump-backed woman at the alcalde's was the first deformed person he had seen in Peru. The pueblo consists of nothing more than ranchos^ with a church. There is no resident clergyman ; one coming from a distance to perform the service. About seven in the morning of the 21st_, we left Leimabamba, and crossed a stone bridge over a river formed by the junction of some mountain- streams, and named, from its stone bridge, the Rumi- chaca. A short distance from Leimabamba it increases to about thirty yards in breadth^ running at the rate of four or five miles per hour. The road follows the bank of the river^ bearing about N.N.w. The valley is narrow, but better cul- tivated than any district we passed through. The ridges are steep^ containing at first much limestone, afterwards principally sandstone. The path was not bad^ and we got on faster than usual. In the forenoon we met some mules coming from Chachapoyas with rock salt^ having gone for the purpose of fetching it. It was the last journey the mules would make until the rainy season was over. N Chap. HI. ] SOOTAH. 53 A little before sunset we arrived at the pueblo of Sootah. It was prettily situated, and appeared cleaner than Leimabamba. Several of the inhabi- tants were collected on a green near the church, and appeared cheerful and peaceable. We here crossed a wooden bridge with a roof, and doors at both ends. This and other similar bridges had been built by order of the Spanish government to prevent smug- gling tobacco ; the trade in tobacco having been mo- nopolized by the government in the time of the Spa- niards. Most of the ranchos in Sootah had gardens attached to them_, in one of which several marigolds were growing. Leaving the pueblo^ the clouds threatened rain ; and we pushed on to gain a tambo that the arrieros told us was about a league off. The road was good, and we got our tent pitched before the rain com- menced^ but it fell heavily during the night. About seven in the morning we proceeded, still keeping the bank of the river^, and about nine reached the pueblo of Magdalena. (22d. ) As we were entering the pueblo,, we met a procession of women and chil- dren^ singing a kind of dirge^ apparently in great tribulation. Almost immediately afterwards, a man, evidently in a high state of excitement, mistaking the anchor in front of a blue woollen cap, which I wore under a straw hat, for a cross, took us for priests, and came up to ask a blessing. It turned out that a certain number of men had been demanded as sol- diers, and the day had arrived on which they were ^^ MAGDALENA. [Chap. III. to march to Caxamarca^ as the head-quarters of the province. Attachment to their country and relatives is one strong characteristic of these people ; and even the governor, a short, stout^ determined-looking In- dian, appeared not to have escaped the general in- fection. As soon as it was known that we were not priests^ we were taken for Peruvian officers^ and the women began to exclaim that we were come for more soldiers. The elders of the pueblo collected round the door of the governor's house, where we had stopped to get some chocolate boiled^ and all ap- peared anxious; but there was no disturbance, nor any repinings expressed at the government : it was evidently rather sorrow at parting with their towns- men. All looked towards the governor, who en- deavoured to suppress anything like a show of feeling, as unbecoming his station. Though an Indian, this man, as far as we could judge, was superior to almost any other governor we met with. He had his pueblo in excellent order, and the inhabitants were attached to him. We found that his authority extended over two or three other small pueblos. As we were again starting, we met a considerable detachment of recruits coming in from different parts of the country, on their way to join the battalion at Caxamarca. We here left the river, the road turning more to the north-east. After getting outside the pueblo, the rain again commenced, and the roads being slippery, we had some difficulty in descending a .Chap. III.] LEVANTO. 55 steep clay ridge. On reaching the bottom^ we crossed a bridge similar to the one at Sootah, and passed a superior sort of house that was building, with other corresponding improvements carrying on in the grounds about it. We almost immediately began to ascend again, and the soil being still clay, and the path steep, stones had been placed for the mules to step upon ; they could, however, scarcely keep their feet, and in going up, one of the arrieros fell. About noon we entered a village called Levanto, prettily situated on a ridge. Its appearance was clean and healthy. It had a grass square or plaza, with a church. The inhabitants appeared quiet and industrious. As we passed^ several of the women were spinning cotton at the doors of their ranchos. The elder-tree here grew to a large size, and was in flower. On a higher ridge, along which the road leads towards Chachapoyas, there is much wood, but the trees are not large. Many black bears are said to infest this neighbourhood, but they are neither large nor dangerous, although they attack and destroy young cattle. We here passed the remains of two round stone buildings, somewhat resembUng Mar- tello towers, reported to have been old Indian houses. I was told there is at present a village on a hill above Sootah, the houses of which are built in a similar manner. About a league from Levanto we got. sight of the 56 CHACHAPOYAS. [Chap. III. city of Chachapoyas^ situated on a large but not fer- tile looking plain. As we descended towards it^ we passed numerous wooden crosses placed at almost every turn^ sometimes three together. Until reaching the plain^ the road was horrible; but a short distance before entering the city it was paved with large stones, and had a channel in the middle for the water to run down. We inquired for the intendente's house ; and having presented our pass- ports with the prefect's letter, we were invited to dine^ and had a room given us in the quartel. We had scarcely dismounted at our quarters^ when the news of our arrival having spread through the city_, a crowd of the principal inhabitants collected to reconnoitre us^ under the plea of offering their ser- vices^ and it was not easy either to satisfy their curiosity or to get rid of them. At dinner,, one of the first questions that was asked us was^ '^ whether it was true the Spaniards had taken the Rock?" We were told that an account had reached Chachapoyas, *^ that the Spaniards had lost forty thousand men in an attack^ but that they had succeeded in getting possession of Gibraltar." After assuring them the report was without founda- tion^ we in turn asked for information relative to that part of the country. It appeared there had been some difficulty in raising the quota of recruits de- manded from the province, owing to the natural disinclination of the natives to leave their relations and pueblos. Partly on this account^, and partly for Chap. III.] CHACHAPOYAS. Õ7 other reasons^ some families had removed towards Mayobamba. But it also appeared that a spirit of enterprise had commenced and was extending amongst the higher classes. The owner of the house we had seen buildins^ near Maofdalena was present, and informed us he intended making con- siderable improvements, and that he had already planted a small vineyard. The intendente also told us of a person named Rodriguez, proprietor of a fine hacienda on the banks of the Marauon, near Jaen_, who had entered into an agreement with a Genoese named Rivison, and that they had together commenced improvements on an extensive scale. In the morning I took double altitudes for ascer- taining the latitude, in a small garden belonging to the quartel. We breakfasted with a person livino* close to the quartel, and who had been attentive in calling repeatedly to see whether we were in want of anything, without being so troublesomely curious as most of our visiters. About noon, as I was working my sights, the intendente and the vicar called, on their way from mass. They were inquisitive respecting my instru- ments, particularly a thermometer that had been in the ship Captain Parry commanded towards the North Pole. The vicar asked if it was not for measuring the latitude? and if they were not in sixty degrees of latitude, as they saw the quicksilver stand at near 60°. We again dined with the intendente, when he Õ8 CHACHAPOYAS. [Chap. III. showed us the census^ and tribute or tax-papers of the provmce. The totals were^ five thousand and eighty-three females — five thousand and ninety- three males. Tribute or tax paid by Blancoes^, (persons having a portion of European bloody) four thousand four hundred and twenty-six dollars annually ; by the Indians^ eight thousand seven hun- dred and eight dollars. This tax was^ as far as I understood^ a poll-tax, varying according to the place lived in. The intendente informed us^ that the population of the province of Chachapoyas had, at one time^ amounted to twenty thousand. The decrease was in a measure accounted for by the change that had taken place regarding tobacco. Previous to the re- volution, the trade in tobacco was exclusively taken possession of by the government ; and as tobacco is produced to the eastward of Chachapoyas, several persons^ amongst whom was the present intendente, were appointed to make purchases^ and forward it towards the coast. These persons received con- siderable salaries ; and the tobacco being paid for in dollars sent purposely by the government, large sums^ at least comparatively large sums, had been brought into circulation. When the monopoly ceased, a temporary stagnation was produced throughout^ and several of the families who suffered left the district. The intendente appeared to think also that the de- mands which had been made for recruits^ coming at the same time upon the inhabitants, had produced an Chap. III.] CHACHAPOYAS. 59 injurious effect. He said that one thousand eight hundred men had gone from the province for soldiers since the commencement of the revolution. As far as I am capable of forming an opinion from what I have seen and heard in Peru, having witnessed the sweeping manner in which the Burmans raised their levies^ and the v^ar of desolation carried on^ on the Spanish main, at the time Generals Bolivar and Mo- rillo were opposed to each other, I should say that the revolutionary war in Peru appears rather to have been tedious, harassing, and expensive, than bloody ; and although the demands for recruits must have taken a proportionately great number of men, the difference between the totals of males and females in the intendente's census was only ten. In the evening we were called upon by the per- sons the intendente had mentioned as having com- menced extensive improvements on a hacienda near Jaen. They wished for our opinion on some speci- mens of grapes and wine they had brought with them to the city. The wine, as we were told, was not a month old, and not having been put into casks, had not, I suppose, undergone the vinous fermentation. The grapes were rather small, round, and dark- coloured ; their flavour was far from bad, but they appeared to have been gathered before they were thoroughly ripe. The proprietor said they had also the muscatel grape. They had not at that time got casks, but had made 60 CHACHAPOYAS. [Chap. III. arrangements for being- supplied with them. It was their intention to endeavour to cultivate and prepare indig-o,, which grows wild in their neighbourhood. At my request^ the following account of the ha- cienda was written : — (translation.) Situation of the hacienda of Quemia^ and the products of the climates of which it consists. It is situated on the banks of the Maranon. The distance from the city of Cha- chapoyas to the jalca, twenty leagues^ and from thence to the Maranon, five leagues. It produces grapes of four qualities, the Itaha, Samba, Muscatel, and Negra ; also, cocoa and coca (a herb chewed by the Indian miners): these are produced on the Maranon. Products of the Quinchnia (a high and cooler climate), wheat, Indian corn, and barley. Produce of a moderately hot climate, sugar cane. On the jalca, potatoes. Note. — This hacienda is distant from the city of Caxa- marca twenty-eight leagues, and from the cerro of Gual- gayoc, about the same. (Signed) Torribio Rodriguez The number of vines already planted, we under- stood, was about fourteen thousand; and as many more were to be put down. The circumference of the hacienda was thirty leagues. After leaving these persons, we went again to the intendente, to make further inquiries respecting the Chap. Ijr.J CHACHAPOYAS. 61 mules we wanted for the morning-, and with which there appeared likely to be some delay. Procrastination has been one great evil with the Peruvians^ and the constant application of the word ^^manana,' to-morrow_, becomes a serions annoyance. With all the intendente's attention and good humour, we were obliged to urge him somewhat earnestly, to enable us to get on. Returning from the intendente's, we called at the house where we had breakfasted. Several of the principal inhabitants were collected, and the conver- sation almost immediately turned upon our intended route, with which they had by this time become acquainted. We availed ourselves of the opportu- nity, to request they would give us the best account they could relative to the productions of the country. One of the men very good humouredly sat down, and taking a pen, whilst others stood round and dic- tated, the following account was written : — (translation.) An Account of the Productions of the Province of Chachapoyas, Tobacco in Moros and Manogas, (different kinds of rolls,) according to fair calculation, 640,000. Cotton on all the lands close to the Maranon. In small quantities for want of hands. Peruvian bark, of every quality : in all the province. Sugar, in all the province, but the best is produced in the 62 CHACHAPOYAS. [CJ^p. III. valley of Guayabamba. Indigo grows wild, but from want of industry and cultivation none is manufactured. Cochineal is produced in all parts on the banks of the Marafion. Cocoa, the same as above. Coca, rice, incense, black bees- wax, black wax of the laurel, castor oil, wheat, Indian corn (the Indian of Chachapoyas is particularly good,) barley, peas, beans, quincia, dragon's blood, storax, alum, alca- parrosa, Brazil wood, chilca for dyeing green, and chin- charigo for dyeing yellow. Fruits. — Plantains of all kinds, pine-apples, oranges, chirimoyas, petaguyas, capulies, paliyas, pomegranates, quinces, peaches, prickly pears, tunones, papallas, water- melons, melons, siruelas, guanabanas, alligator pears, cus- tard-apples, apples, pacayes, lucumas, olives. Produces all kinds of vegetables, strawberries, wild mulberries, and silk worms. All kinds of cattle. From the intendente we had previously received a description of some of these fruits. His account was as follows : — '^ The petaguya is oblong, yellow, resembles the pine, and is considered wholesome. The sweet oranges are very superior; tununo is a species of prickly pear, not large. The pinas, or pine-apples, are large and plentiful. Lucumas resembles a green peach, is yellow under the skin, and sweet, but in- sipid. Peaches are abundant, and of various qualities, some large and some small. A kind of wild cherry grows in clusters on a large tree : (this fruit grows something in the manner of the berries of the moun- Chap. III.] CHACHAPOYAS. 63 tain-ash, but the clusters are ionger and the fruit not so close to each other ; those I saw were not ripe.) ^^ Maize, or Indian corn^ is the principal grain sown ; an almud will produce six cargoes, or seventy almuds, and is particularly good. Wheat is raised in the mean climate, but not to a great extent. It has been frequently blighted^ particularly during the last three years. Potatoes are sown and raised during all seasons of the year. Frigoles^ a kind of white beans, are raised in considerable quantities. Gua- narpo, a herb similar in its effects to cantharides. ^' There are parrots, partridges, wild turkeys, por- cupines, and tiger cats ; the latter are small, infest the woods, and live principally upon birds. Black bears, large and small breeds, are numerous in the woods, particularly about Levanto, and occasionally destroy calves, but live principally on herbs ; they avoid men^ but will attack them if pursued.'* After the account was finished, the party wished to know what we thought of the country, and whether we had a regard for Peru ? The city of Chachapoyas does not possess much regularity in its buildings. Several of the houses are in the European style, excepting that they are only one story high. The streets are long and paved. Towards the centre of the city is a plaza, with a handsome church at one corner, and the quartel next to it. The pampas round the city are 04 CHACHAPOYAS. [Chap. Ill much burnt up in the dry season^ but when the rains commence they become fruitful. I made the latitude of Chachapoyas 6° 7' 41" s. by double altitudes^ worked according to Dr. Inman's method, and with his tables. Thermometer, Go"" Fah. ^ i 65 CHAPTER IV. Leave Chachapoyas — Journey by moon-light — Toulea— Passage through the Montaua — Cross several rivers — Peruvian manner of making Inclosures — Pueblo of Rioca — Pucuna, or tube for blowing poisoned arrows — Moyo- bamba — Mons. DuBayle — Miguel Ramos, alias Michael Ramsay — Vicar — General's report — Padre de la Torre's accoimt of the river Guallaga — In- teudente's account of the productions of the province of Maynas, also of the Pueblos and authorities — Latitude of Moyo])amba, manner of making obser- vations, &c. — Ball given to celebrate the coming-in of the new year — Mar- kets — Intendente, Mons. Du Bayle. In the morning-^ being Monday, the 24th of Decem- ber^ we were detained, as we had anticipated, by the mules not being ready. They did not appear until the afternoon_, when the Indians who accom- panied them were drunk. We selected five mules and two horses, with two arrieros^ and started. The road for the first league was down one and up another small rug- ged ridge^ bearing north-easterly. It then turned suddenly into a narrow, fertile^ and well cultivated valley, bearing about s.e. by e. ; a broad stream ran through the valley, and a tolerable path followed its banks. For two or three leagues after leaving Chacha- poyas^ we met numbers of men^ women^ and chil- dren, some ridings others on foot, with cargoes of poultry^ &c. and driving cattle ; all on their way to keep the Christmas feast at the city. 66 JOURNEY BY MOONLIGHT. [Chap. IV. Towards dusk^ having come about six leag-ues, we crossed a bridge over the river, to a circular open spot, in the middle of which was a moderate house, belonging* to a chacra. The leading arriero pulled up^ dismounted^ and was proceeding towards the house, informing us that there was no pasture for the beasts further on, and that we must stop there for the night. This, however, did not accord with our ideas ; we had already lost too much time^ and he was desired to remount. He then insisted that the roads were bad^ and that he should probably lose his way ; the other arriero did not know the road, and various additional objections were brought forward : but as the moon had risen and the night was fine^ we determined on proceeding. We did not get far before the valley terminated^ at least it contracted into a glen, and^ shortly after- wards, into a ravine, down which the river, changing into a powerful mountain -torrent, foamed with con- siderable noise. The path also, leaving the bottom, ascended, cut in the sides of rocks ; in some places, and for considerable distances, so narrow that two persons riding could not pass. We began to think the arriero's account was not far wrong, and rain having fallen not long before, the rock was wet and slippery. Still the scenery was beautiful and roman- tic in the extreme. Wherever sufficient earth allowed trees to grow they arched over the path ; whilst the brilliant sparkling of numerous fire-flies, and the clear pale light of the moon, gave additional llii ■^i Chap. IV.] JOURNEY BY MOONLIGHT. 67 effect to the rugged mountain landscape and the torrent. We got on tolerably for some time, excepting that the arriero who knew the road, and was again leading, being annoyed at having been compelled to proceed,, was inclined to avail himself of this oppor- tunity to be even with us: he pushed on, endeavour- ing to leave some of the party behind, and I was more than once obliged to use threats before he would stop, and let those who were behind come up. At length, as we were ascending a steep, but broader part of the path, he checked, dismounted, and led his horse forward. As he did not speak, I supposed something had happened to his girths, and followed. It proved to be a flight of steps cut in the rock, one of which was about four feet high. It was too late to turn, my horse was young, almost unbroken ; he sprung at the step, missed, and fell. Fortunately the ascent was so steep that he descended on all fours. Feeling that the only chance was, if possible, to turn him, I hauled on the left rein, struck hard with the spur, and by the aid of a Spanish bit, and I may almost say of Providence, he wheeled and stood athwart the path, on a step some distance below the one he fell at. I then dismounted and called to let the party know we were safe. The second arriero answered, " Pocito no mas'* (a very little, no more.) An extraordinary coincidence was, that the horse had previously broken the head-stall of the bridle, which I had replaced with a F2 68 TOULEA. [Chap. IV. piece of rope and a few clove hitches that were stronger than the sadler's strap and sewing'. Had the head-stall broken at the time the horse fell, the rocky bed of the torrent, on the brink of which we were_, and which was then much below us, would^ in all probability, have been our fate^ and as probably have terminated both our careers. Getting beyond this place^ and remounting, we with some difficulty reached a chacra belonging to the pueblo of Toulea, about nine o'clock. The in- habitants were gone to bed, but on our knocking at the door they turned out ; and_, in the spirit of that genuine hospitaUty we with few exceptions expe- rienced throughout Peru, gave up their beds to ac- commodate us^ and boiled some chocolate for our supper; neither asking who we were_, where we came from^ or where going to. It was evident we were strangers and travellers, and such was a sufficient introduction to obtain the hospitality of Peruvian peasants. On entering the rancho we found the post from Moyobamba, consisting of two footmen, lying with their beds on the floor. They had arrived a short time before us, and in answer to our inquiries re- specting the roads, said, " that the rains had set in heavily, and that the rivers were swollen." Having slept soundly during the night_, the first objects that struck me on waking in the morning were, a ripe pine-apple and a bunch of flowers placed near a crucifix, in a niche in the wall. It was Chap. IV.] TOULEA. 69 Christmas morning- ; yet on going* out all was grcen_, the trees in full leaf, and a field of potatoes behind the rancho were in flower_, promising an abundant crop. Whilst getting some chocolate for breakfast, sitting with the door of lhe rancho open before me^ I thought of the difference between this place and England : with us it was between six and seven o'clock^ in England past eleven^, and I knew that there most people were attending church ; the coun- try not improbably frozen up and covered with snow: here the warmth of the sun was already raising the damp from the thatched roof of the cookhouse of the rancho in a steam ; the small pampa (plain or valley) beyond it was covered with sheep and cattle feeding on a plentiful pasture ; the woods that clothed the lower parts of the ranges of the Andes shewed a variety of tints in their foliage ; and the bold outlines of the mountains themselves were dis- tinctly marked by the clear blue sky behind them. Finding that the governor, for whom I had an official letter, and from whom we wanted mules to proceed^ lived at the pueblo, on a hill about a mile above the rancho, it was ao-reed that Mr. Hinde should take one of the horses that had brought us^ ride up to deliver the letter^ and ask for mules. In about an hour he returned^ and informed me that the governor said the mules could not be got that day. His reasons were^, firsts its being Christmas-day^ and the people attending mass ; secondly, that the mules were on the sierra^ and could not be got. The latter 70 TOULEA. [Chap. IV. we knew to be an idle excuse,, but considered the first a sufficient reason^ and only desired the mules might be at the rancho that evening, ready to start before daylight in the morning. During the day I was employed reading, holding a sort of telegraphic communication with the people and their children, and making some remarks with a pencil. The natives were not a little surprised to see that a stick would write without ink, whilst I was almost equally so, to find the condor's quill used as a pen ; I got two of these quills, measuring two feet four inches in length, and near an inch and a half in circum- ference. I also got a land shell, which has since at- tracted notice as being hitherto unknown to European naturalists, and of which a particular description has been published by Mr. Broderip, in the fourth volume of the Zoological Journal. A copy of this description is, with permission, added to the Appendix. What still more excited the admiration of the natives, was a piece of his Majesty's tartan, with which I had fitted up my cabin in the Menai, and some of which I had with me. One of Mr. Hinde's occupations was getting some beef dried in the sun, as provision for our journey, perhaps not the most agreeable, but one of the most necessary of our arrangements. Towards noon, I went down and bathed in a river that runs through the pampa ; the water was at an agreeable temperature. Fahrenheit's thermometer stood at 60° in the shade. Chap. IV.] TOULEA. 71 In the evening I again went out^ and was stand- ing at a short distance from the rancho admiring the scenery^, when an old Indian, with a ^ mate,' orcalla- bash, in which were half a dozen eggs, with some butter rolled up in a plantain leaf, came up_, and sa- luting me, said something respecting * El Governador,' that I did not understand. T therefore walked back with him to the rancho, where, with Mr. Hinde's assistance, I was informed, that the governor had nominated him for one of our arrieros, and he had brought the eggs, &c. as a present ; but his imme- diate object was to secure a light load for his cargo mule, ^ maiianeta,' literally, ' the little to-morrow.' The serious annoyance which we experienced from delays, and the frequent application of the word ^ manana' (to-morrow) in answer to our endeavours to excite promptitude and expedition, may be imagined. The old Indian's additional ' eta,' therefore, however interesting it may be, when applied by some fair Castilian to a term of affection with which she ad- dresses her admirer, did not in this case produce a happy effect, particularly when accompanied by a bribe to injustice. The old rogue was sent off with his eggs, informed, that when the mules were loaded he should receive a fair cargo, neither more nor less ; and recommended not to be too late in making his reappearance with his mule. This business being disposed of, I continued ray ramble. The evening was such a one as may occa- sionally be found in England during the latter end 72 PERUVIAN DOGS. [Chap. IV. of spring-, or the beginning of summer. The scenery was beautiful. The rich varied foliage of the woods^ although the trees individually were not large ; the boldness of the rock scenery ; the calmness of the vale^ along which the different herds^ with their attendant dogs^ were drawing towards their respective ranchos ; the warm, without being oppressive, rays of the set- ting sun ; the singing of birds^ some of which re- sembled the English blackbird ; and the murmuring of the distant river^ — all tending to complete a pic- ture I regretted much it was not in my power to copy. Whilst sitting on a bank admiring the view, and attempting to sketch the outline^ I heard a rustling amonofst some bushes that were behind me, and turned to see what was moving — nothing was visible : but on returning to the rancho^ T was told black bears were numerous in the woods, and that there were some pumas. They seldom attack men^ though_, when we inquired whether it would be safe for a lad belonging to the rancho, whom we wanted to send with a message to the governor^ to pass through the wood up to the pueblo^ the people said it would not, after dusk. Mr. Hinde mentioned to me a curious anecdote,, with which he had become acquainted respecting the watch dogs. It was, that these dogs^ when youngs are taught to suck the flock to which they are after- wards to belong as guardians ; and being brought up in this manner^ when grown to full size^ they conti- ^^ Chap. IV.] PERUVIAN DOGS. 73 nue to attend the flocks ; going out with them in the morning, remaining during the day, and bringing them home in the evening, without the necessity of herdsmen. He said also, that some Enghsh spaniels had been sent out to the British merchants resi- dent in Truxillo; and being much admired, puppies were distributed as presents to some of the principal natives ; amongst others, one was given to the prefect, who, being desirous that it should be trained in a particular manner, and become attached to him and his people, sent it up to his ' hacienda' (estate). When full grown, it was brought down to Truxillo, but it did not remain long in the city before it began to find out that the British residents were its country- men, and in common with other puppies that had been similarly distributed, deserted its master, to seek quarters in the merchants' houses. Mr. Hinde said, that these dosfs would even know an Enolish- man in the street, and join company, when walking, to the annoyance of their masters. It certainly was the case that, when I arrived at Truxillo, the mother spaniel thought proper to acknowledge me as a coun- tryman, in a manner that w^as not agreeable, inasmuch as, from her lying constantly at my feet, numerous fleas, with which the coast of Peru naturally abounds, migrated from her fur to my clothes. A peculiarity of the South American, at least the Peruvian dogs, is, that they generally attack in packs of two or three together. Their manner of biting also is different from other dogs. If an unfjrtunate 74 TOULEA. [Chap. IV. stranger (dog*) makes his appearance, the packs of two or three neighbouring ranchos will unite, and the visiter comes badly off. Individually they are not powerful, but from their offensive alliances^ it is not altogether agreeable going near the ranchos un- armed after dark. Mr. Hinde was nearly suffering on one occasion. The Toulea dogs were so poor, that their bones might almost be counted through their skins. Yet their tastes and appetites were so accom- modating, that there were few things they would not eat^ for instance beans, such as are given to horses. The district of Toulea may be considered as the commencement or extremity of the ' Montana' woods_, on the eastern side of the Andes ; not only as it is the last inhabited station on our route before entering the Montaiia, but as the district in itself consists of mountains^ small plains, and woods. Toulea has been particularly fortunate in being protected by the government, few soldiers having been demanded during the revolutionary war. The vale or pampa before the pueblo is, I believe,, common property^ each of the inhabitants having a proportionate right of pasture. Cattle are woifth from three to five dol- lars each. I bought a young bull's hide^ to cover the baggage^ for a ^ real,' about sixpence. The governor had promised, and the alcalde pledged himself, that the mules should be at the chacra in the evening ; but, as usual, we were dis- appointed, and they did not make their appearance until near eight o'clock in the morning. When Chap. IV.j TOULEA. 75 loaded^ and about to start, the horse that had been brought for me, would not go until after a hard fight, and by means of a Spanish bit and English spurs. He was compelled to move forward by degrees ; but was still so restive, and apparently so determined on knocking about, that should we meet with any more Christmas-eve scenery, my neck would not be worth much. I therefore determined on having an inter- view with the governor respecting the whole busi- ness. On the way up to the pueblo, the horse fell twice ; and although the distance was not far, I fancy we were sincerely and reciprocally tired of each other before we arrived. ' El Governador's' excuses, like his promises, were abundant ; but it was necessary to hold out reporting him to the prefect before we could get matters arranged ; and it was not till be- tween ten and eleven o'clock that we proceeded on our route. Our day's journey was about eight leagues, the first and principal part through a country covered with wood, the soil of which is white sand ; over a hill, the road on both sides formed by the trunks of small trees placed athwart, and close together ; and across one of the bleakest ridges of the Andes ; the bearing on the whole about n.n.e. At- sunset we arrived in a wet, boggy, uncultivated valley, where we stopped for the night. During the ride, we had met several Indians carry- ing cargoes on their backs ; that being the manner in which communications are kept up between Cha- 76 PASSAGE ACROSS [Chap. IV. chapoyas and Moyobamba during the rainy season. We also saw a man in an uncommon dress, whom we took to be a European, passing over one of the hills. On the 27th_, we started about seven o'clock, and getting out of the valley^ passed over more bleak hills. The weather was at first cool^ damp, and misty, resembling that of a November day in Eng- land. Shortly after starting, it changed to drizzling rain^ that continued almost without intermission until the afternoon. Leaving the bleak ridges^ we entered what is called the Montana, or district of the woods ; still passing several steep ascents and descents. The wild luxu- riance of the trees and flowers in the Montana was excessive ; scarcely a niche in the abrupt rocks that occasionally showed themselves was left unoccupied. Streams became more numerous, and we heard the notes of what we understood to be the organ-bird. About eleven o'clock we stopped to descansar, and got some broth made of jerked beef. As we were remounting, the arrieros gave us notice to pre- pare for worse road. This at the time appeared to us scarcely possible ; but we had not gone much far- ther when we were convinced the arrieros were cor- rect in their account. Sitting upright even on the saddles of the country was out of the question ; as- cending, we were obliged to lay ourselves along the mules' backs, and hold on ; descending, it was equally steep ; and what made it worse, the top of an ascent Chap. IV.] THE MONTANA. il was scarcely gained, when the next step was jumping down again, consequently an instantaneous change of position was necessary. In getting up some of these places, and lying stretched along the mules' backs, we appeared to be nearly upright : nor was steepness the only obstacle ; some of these staircases were cut throuofh cliffs, but so narrow, that in descendinof we repeatedly got jammed, and the sides so high that a person, when a few yards in advance, appeared rather to be going to the interior, than continuing along the surface of the earth . in other parts, branches of trees, particularly stout sogas (creepers), caught our heads and necks ; and it was necessary to keep a good look out to avoid being hanged by these growing ropes. Going down one of the steepest descents, a soga stretching across the path caught me directly in the mouth, which it forced open : fortunately it was not a strong one, and my biting it hard, and the strength and weight of the mule, broke it. Between the ridges were bogs, in which the mules sunk up to their bellies. Bridges over the mountain-streams were made of one large tree, flanked by two smaller ones. If our mules had not understood their busi- ness, and been as active and sure-footed as goats, we certainly could not have ridden. Mine had no bit, not having been accustomed to one, but she climbed up, and jumped down with most extraordi- nary agility and sagacity. Her business was to go, mine to hold on! About four o'clock in the afternoon we came to a 78 PASSAGE ACROSS [Chap. IV. small open space^ with a shed, called the Admiral's tambo ; but for what reason it was so called we could not learn. We passed on, and shortly afterwards rode over a mound several yards in diameter^ perfo- rated with numerous holes made by large black bees^ from which a black wax is obtained. The trees of the forest now became larger, and the underwood less thick_, and we began to meet with more tropical plants, amongst which were several varieties of palms and ferns; some of the ferns nearly equalling the palms in circumference^, but not in height. Towards sunset we reached another open space_, about a hundred yards long by thirty in breadth ; and there being sufficient pasture for the mules^ and a stream running past_, we stopped and pitched our tent near a large tree. This was the first time we were troubled by musquitoes. The thermometer only showed 65° inside the tent. The bearings of the track had varied from north to south; but, in consequence of the nature of the road, I was prevented from noticing the compass so often as I otherwise should have done. On the whole, we made, I think, about a n.e. course. The early part of Friday's journey resembled that of the day before, with the addition, that in some parts, from the depth and continuance of the bogs, and in others, from trees having fallen across the path, we were obliged to push into the wood in order to get round. At a place called by the natives the 'ventana' Chap. IV.] THE MONTANA. 79 (window)^ from its steepness,, the rock was pretty nearly perpendicular^ with only a few niches cut^ for the mules to step into. We all dismounted^ and scrambled down in the best manner we could. How the mules got down I am at this moment at a loss to conceive ; the only one that I saw, for I got out of the way as quickly as possible, was my own. I had given her to one of the arrieros to hold until I was clear below, but he let her go rather too soon, and she tumbled past, still keeping her feet like a cat. I do not hesitate to say of this passage across the Montana, that, had I not been a witness to the con- trary, I could scarcely have believed it possible for any animal to have carried a human being over it alive ; and I think any other person who had seen the track would be of the same opinion. The road appeared to me to be badly made, worse kept, and absurdly chosen, as it varied repeatedly in its direc- tion, even as far as from north to south, whilst, as far as I could judge, it passed over every ridge in the country. This remark, though not to so great an extent^ I conceive to be generally applicable to the roads throughout Peru. Instead of following vallies or levels that occasionally lead to the eastward, and afterwards making northing along the summits of some of the most even ridges, they wind about in almost all directions, whilst scarcely a ridge is allowed to escape crossing. This I suppose to proceed from two causes — first, the true positions of the cities not being known ; secondly, that the Incas, having no 80 PAKA TAMBO. [Chap. IV. cattle but llamas^ and being accustomed to, and liv- ing on the mountains_, did not feel the inconvenience of these kind of roads ; and the Indians^ who were employed to make the roads in the time of the Spa- niards, 'not being properly superintended, naturally kept much to their old system. About eleven in the forenoon we came to an open space called the PakaTambo, or tambo of red earth, and stopped to descansar. During our journey we had more than once ob- served bones that were evidently skeletons of mules that had broken down on the road. These skele- tons had hitherto been tolerably perfect, but a col- lection of bones near the paka tambo, which ap- peared to be of a similar description, were broken, scattered, and had an appearance of having been picked. There were numerous varieties of butterflies, some of which were very beautiful, and not difficult to catch ; but it would have required time to make a collection, and had we made one, we could not have preserved it. I found a pair of large shells, appa- rently of the same species as that got at Toulea, having the animals alive in them, and gave them to one of the arrieros, with special injunctions that they were to be taken care of; but on rejoining the party, after bathing in a small natural bath, formed by a stream running into a hole in a rock above which the trees of the jungle met, I found that the arriero had, according to his own idea of taking especial care, roasted the animals for breakfast, and thus burnt the shells. Chap. IV.] RIO NEGRO. 81 Again starting-, the road was not so bad ; and we got on faster,, until we arrived at a level on which the trees were unusually large, less numerous, and clear of underwood. About two in the afternoon, we passed another tambo, but did not stop. It thun- dered, and the clouds gave us reason to expect a squall, which shortly came on heavily, with lightning, and continued for about an hour. As it cleared off, and about four o'clock, we arrived at the bank of a rather broad and rapid stream called the Rio Negro. The colour of its waters, from which it derives its name, is evidently occasioned by the blackness of the soil over which it runs. Its waters were clear, and its current unbroken. We crossed on a bridge made of one large tree flanked by two smaller ones. Leaving the Rio Negro, the country became open, and covered with grass growing* on a white sandy soil. At the time we passed, all looked green ; but from the sandiness of the soil, I should suppose these levels must be much burnt during the dry season. About sunset we arrived at the first habitation we had seen since leaving Toulea. It was a large well- built rancho, with a chacra ; and belonged to the dis- trict of the pueblo of Rioca, about a league distant. The rancho was new, and some of the inclosures not finished, but in a forward state. The Indian and his wife appeared cleanly and industrious. We pitched our tent, and the night being fine and moonlight, hung our wet clothes up to dry. . As we had here an opportunity of observing the G 82 TRANCHI YACO. [Chap. IV manner in which the Peruvian inclosures are made^ I endeavour to describe it. The intended wall, or inclosure, being marked out^ four long but not stout stakes are driven into the ground_, two on each side ; planks are placed length- ways on their edges^ one above another, inside the stakes ; having an interval of about two feet broad between them. The stakes are then lashed across to each other at the top, and the space between the planks filled with earthy mixed with water, and taken out of a trench dug round the inclosure. The earth is then beat with pieces of wood_, until a cement is formed : the planks are removed^ and the inclosure proceeds. The heat of the sun hardens the cement and makes it durable. Each of the divisions in the inclosure making round this chacra was about six feet long, two feet high^ smooth, but not level at the top, rising in midships, so that the next tier fitting in become more firmly fixed than they otherwise would be. The divisions of the inclosures on the coast are generally shorter_, thicker^ and higher, with their upper surfaces level. After proceeding about half a league, on the 29th we came to a river called the Tranchi Yaco, where we had to dismount, unload the mules, and swim them across ; carrying the baggage over a bridge made of a single tree, a litde straightened at the top, but so badly sprung, that we were obliged to pass several turns with a lazo to prevent its going al- together. Remounting, half a league further on, Ghap. IV.] THE PUCUNA DESCRIBED. 83 we came to a large and populous^ but irregularly built pueblo^ called Rioca. In entering, we passed several women washing clothes at a well^ or reser- voir of water^ with a shed over it. They were tall and light coloured^ but neither so stout nor so well made as most of the Indians we had seen. We called at the governor's;, to know whether there was a canoe ready to convey us across a river^, which the arrieros called Rio Grande^, and which we under- stood was not far off. The governor was not at homC;, but his wife told us we should find two Indians with a canoe ready. Having reached the river, Mr. Hinde and myself crossed with our baggage in the canoe, the arrieros taking the mules round to a shal- lower part. Whilst the baggage was being rcfixed^ an Indian, coming from his chacra, passed with a pucuna, a tube through which poisoned arrows are blown^ in his hand. As this was the first pucuna we saw^ we stopped the Indian to examine it. We also got him to blow an arrow, which went about fifty yards,, the man not choosing to send it further lest he might hit any one. The tube was about eight feet long, an inch and a half in diameter at its thickest end, which was the end blown into, gradually tapering to its other end. The bore was about the diameter of a moderate- sized pistol ball. It was made in two pieces, joined lengthways, like a pencil, wound round with small tape made of bark, and covered with some kind of gum. On the top of the tube, and about a foot g2 84 THE PUCUNA DESCRIBED. [Chap. IV. from the blowing end^ a piece of bone was fixed as a sight ; and at each side of the mouth-piece a boar's tiisk was placed_, curving outwards^ for the double purpose of preventing the loss of breath when an arrow is blown^ and of protecting the tube from damagfe when not used. The arrows were made of split pieces of bamboo^ about the size of a knitting needle ; when blown^ a small quantity of wild cotton is rolled round near the inside end^ to prevent windage,, and direct the arrow. The quiver was a piece of bamboo. The bore of the tube is made before the pieces are joined ; they are made by reofular maisteries, or manufacturers. We found the value of a pucuna and arrows was about a dollar ; but the poison used was dearer, and not easy to be got. It is manufactured by particular tribes^ who keep its composition a secret ; but it is said to con- tain a considerable proportion of essence of tobacco. Its effects are rather stupifying than convulsive. Salt and sugar are both considered remedies ; salt the best. When a monkey is hit with one of these arrows he immediately tries to pull it out ; to prevent which the Indians^ when shooting monkeys^ cut the arrows half through near the point, with fishes teeth, that are attached to the quiver for that purpose ; and when the animal pulls, the arrow breaks. The road having now become comparatively good^ the arrieros, who were on foot from Toulea, and had almost the advantage in the Montana^ were scarcely able to keep up. They were stout^ active Chap. IV.] MOYOBAMBA. 85 men_, wore each a sandal on the left foot^ and from constant habits of walking and climbing-, were parti- cularly muscular about the legs ; one of them had the veins in the calves of his legs what is, I believe, called varicose. Approaching Moyobamba, we passed several cha- cras, and a small village at a distance from the road. We also saw some of the inhabitants going towards the city^ having a horse or mule laden with fruit, They were cleanly,, and appeared cheerful and active, but were far from stout. We forded another river ; and^ passing over a levels entered Moyobamba. None of the rivers we had crossed were navigable. We inquired for, and went to the house of the intendente ; to whom I showed my passport, and delivered the prefect's letter. He had received inti- mation of our comings and a room was got for us at the house of the military commandant, w'ho treated us with much civility. Previous to our arrival^ the room that was allotted to us had been occupied by bales of tucuya, a coarse kind of cotton cloth manu- factured at Moyobamba^ and in which the inhabitants are allowed to pay their taxes at a fixed rate. These bales had been collected in this manner^ and belonged to the government. We converted them into bed places. In the evening we were visited by one of the padres, the curate^ who informed us he had been a prisoner to the English at Buenos Ayres^ and had been treated w^ell when a prisoner. As usual^ several 86 . MOYOBAMBA. IChap, IV. of the inhabitants collected round the door to look at us ; but we found that we were not the first Euro- peans who had visited Moyobamba. A Frenchman, who had come from the Brazilian territory^ had ar- rived a few weeks before_, and was then in the city. A bell something- like the Norman curfew ringing* at eight o'clock, those belonging to the local battalion_, who were collected round our door^ were obliged to go to their quarters in the quartel. The others^ though, I believe^ not compulsorily^ dispersed; and in a short time the inhabitants of the city had, with the exception of a few stragglers^ retired for the night. The following day we were called upon by Mons. Du Bayle^ who, after introducing himself^ informed us^ that he had been a captain in the French army under Napoleon^, and had obtained a cross of the legion of honour. At the termination of the war he had entered into trade ; and, after going* to different countries, had^ between two and three years before the time we met him_, come to the Maranon in hopes of making money. Since his arrival at Moyobamba, he had entered into some mercantile transactions with the intendente, but had not been successful. He gave a woeful account of his movements on the river. He was easy in his manner^ and appeared to possess considerable general information, but had not made many observations on his route; a few names of places noted in a pocket-book were all he had. We saw much of him during our stay at Chap. IVJ MOYOBAMBA. ^7 Moyobamba^ as he said he considered us his coun- trymen in that out of the way part of the world. We dined with the intendente, when we learnt that neither Mons. Du Bayle nor ourselves were the first European visiters to Moyobamba. An English^ at least a British_, sailor, named Michael Ramsay^ or, as he was there called^ ' Miguel Ramos,' had, by some means^ found his way there from the coast; and had displayed his salt-water manoeuvres to such effect,, that the Moyobambians appeared somewhat at a loss whether to be most surprised, amused^ or afraid of him. He had married, and remained for some time^ until, getting tired^ he went off and left his wife. On the whole, he had not produced a favourable impression on the minds of the natives. We occasionally heard of this man afterwards, where he had made his appearance in an extraordinary manner. A padre, who had seen him^ told us that he, the padre, had asked him why he did not work^ as he was very strong. His answer was^, No ; he liked to order better. After dinner^ the intendente walked to show us the city^ with a view of the country from a particular point. This point formed part of the brink of a small, not high, but abrupt table-land, the summit of which was occupied by the site of the city, and of which the edge was in different parts broken or cracked, forming ravines; but whether occasioned by earthquakes or the rains I could not learn. Look- ing from the spot we stood upon, below us and to 88 MOYOBAMBA. £Chap. IV. the left_, which was to the n.w., a clear hut not cul- tivated level extended for several miles : in front, and to the right^, the river Moyo ran through a valley that was partly cultivated ; whilst the hills^ forming" the valley^ were_, with the exception of a few spots in the distance, covered with wood. The effect of the scenery was pleasing ; but there was not that over- whelming grandeur of feature which we had witnessed amongst the Cordilleras. The hills were more broken^ and_, I imagine, a stranger might look at them with- out feeling- that instantaneous conviction, that they were the ' Andes^' which is experienced^ at least which I experienced, on the coast; and where it always appeared to me that a person need only be shown a hillock^ to know that that hillock belonged to the Andes. Lest I should be considered g'uilty of an in- correct or absurd statement^ I add my reasons for forming this opinion. The hillocks of the Andes are in themselves mountains^ still preserving* the character of hillocks ; that is_, their outlines are not broken. In all mountains that I have seen_, the chains or principal ridges have numerous peaks ; in the representations of the Alps the peaks are innu- merable ; so amongst the Cordilleras the ranges and different swellings, though not so much broken as the Alps, resemble avast sea of mountains. If, there- fore, a o-io-antic hillock or mountain is seen without these characteristics^ I conceive an inference may be drawn that it belongs to a range proportionately more enormous. Such was the impression on my mind Chap. IV.l MOYOBAMBA. 89 on first beholding the Andes ; but I do not conceive that the ridges near Moyobamba are calculated to convey an idea of the vast magnitude of the Cordil- leras. They appear rather to be gradually dwindling into that unbroken plain towards which we were ap- proaching. As we were returning, the intendente informed us that the population of Moyobamba had at one time amounted to five thousand persons. He appeared to think it had decreased ; but, if another part of his information was correct, I should imagine his opi- nion as to the decrease could not be well founded. He said there were twelve hundred militia men re- gistered in case of need, and that there is a standing troop of a hundred men. It is certainly the case, that from the reports circulated relative to the quan- tity of gold to be found up the river Napo_, added to other causes_, several have been drawn,, and others driven away ; but if there are still twelve hundred militia men registered_, I should suppose others must have come in the place of those who are gone, or the remaining population become more fruitful. The Moyobambians are remarkable for the light- ness of their colour ; one reason given for which is an evil report relative to the number of missionaries formerly stationed there. It is perhaps not impro- bable, that after the conquest of Peru by the Spa- niards, the subjects and even descendants of the incas retiring before the conquerors, might have come to Moyobamba, and other places beyond the Montana, 1 90 MOYOBAMBA. XChap.IVi. which for a time would form a barrier. One of the present characteristics of the Moyobambians is their love of liberty,, which they have carried to such an excess as to refuse sending* recruits to the Peruvian army. When General Bolivar was in Lima^ a force was detached against them in consequence, but was said not to have been altogether successful. The Moyobambians declare themselves ready to rise to the utmost to defend the liberty of themselves and their country. Bread is not used at Moyobamba^ plantains acting as a substitute^ which is probably^ in a principal measure, the cause of the meagre ap- pearance of several of the inhabitants, particularly those who live in chacras, and get but little meat. I was inclined to attribute this appearance to some- thing in the water, until we had ourselves experienced the effects of a plantain diet. The city of Moyobamba has been laid out with its streets at right angles ; but few of the houses join^ each having a garden or coral attached to it. There is a plaza, with the church on one side^ the intendente's house on another^ and the quartel oppo- site. None of the houses are particularly well built^ and the roofs are thatched with leaves of the palm tree. The streets are not paved. • Moyobamba is noted for the manufacture of tu- caya, a coarse cotton cloth, much esteemed in the lower provinces of Peru^ where^ from its general utility as clothing for the Indians^ and from the scar- city of coin, it serves as the circulating medium ; and .Chap. IV.J 3I0Y0BAMBA: ^91 it is by no means uncommon to see an Indian^ who has come to Moyobamba to work, having received his payment in a roll of tucaya^ returning to his friends,, proud of his own wealth and the envy of others. Tucaya is made principally by the women and children, the latter of whom turn wheels, whilst their mothers or sisters spin the cotton along the streets, in the same manner that hemp is spun in England. In consequence of the letter I had received from the head of the church of Peru, before leavinor Lima^ I now thought it right to call on the clergy- men of Moyobamba^ and show them the letter. We called on the vicar first. He was a secular clergy- man, and the head of the church of the province. On reading the letter he was not a little annoyed ; and with much warmth showed me the copy of a return he had lately made. It appeared to be clear and full, with the exception that it did not contain the names of the clergymen : after pointing out which,, I said I should suppose the return could not have reached Lima at the time I left. The vicar then expressed a suspicion that it had been laid aside on the road : and finding I had no other object but acquainting him with the wishes of the head of the church ofthe republic^ he became much calmer ; said he would send another return with the names of the clergymen added^ and offered me a copy, which, as it contained some information relative to the 92 MOYOBAMBA^ [Chap. IV. country^ I accepted,, and of which the following is a (translation.) Republica Peruana. Vicarage of Moyobamba, October the twentieth^ one thou- sand eight hundred and twenty-seven. To the Senor Doctor Don Pedro Jose del Castello, provisor and vicar-capitular of Truxillo. Proceeding with active zeal to fulfil the order passed by the congress on the 18th of September of the present year, which was communicated to your Excellency; and in virtue of your decree of the 1st of October of the same year, call- ing for an account of the diocese of Maynas, and of the order of my church; — I have to state, that^ during an almost insurmountable journey, occasioned by the troubles and dangers of the navigation of part of the higher and lower regions of the Huallaga, which the diocesan Senor Fayas, by the authority of his mitre, obliged me to take, in X)rder to perform various visits and commissions, I ob- served with great care and attention, to be able to give account to the said Senor, nearly as follows, viz. Moyobamba. This city has its ' cura divisional,' vicar of the same pro- vince, who is called Don Juan Servando Alvan. His assistant, the * cura pedaneo divisional,' is Friar Juan de la Torre, of the order of St. Augustine. Annexed is the pueblo of Soriter, with its churches in order. Llamas. This city has annexed to it the pueblo of Tabalosos and the pueblo of San Miguel del Rio. Its churches are in good < MOYOBAMBA. ^3 Chap. IV.] order, and the curate is the secular (presbítero) Don Jose Antonio Reategui. Tarapoto. This pueblo of Tarapoto, as the capital, has these districts, the pueblo of Cumbasa and the pueblo of Chasuta, at- tached to it ; the curate's name is Friar Eusébio Arias, of the Seraphic order. Its churches are in good repair. Saposoa. This pueblo of Saposoa, as the capital, has attached to it the pueblo of Pisiu Yaco, the pueblo of Juanjuy, and the pueblo of Pachiza ; at this last place the curate of Saposoa does duty provisionally. Their c!iurches are in good order. Pueblos of the Ilujher Reyions of the HuaUaga, with the title and name of Conversions, Names of the Pueblos. Without curates, but have churches * con buen recaudo.' Have a provisional curate, named Friar Dionisio Lopez, of the Seraphic order. Their churches are in good repair. Its church is in good repair, and the cu- rate's name is Friar Ramon Reyes Basa- dre, of the Seraphic order. I These four pueblos have their churches in good order, but are without curates. Pachiza Valle Sion Tocachi Uchiza Pueblo Nuevo Chico Piava ChacUa Mona The High Regions of the Maranon, with the title and name of Maynas Missions. Balsa Puerto ] Have a curate, who is the secular (presbi- Muniches >■ tero), Don Jose Julian del Castello Ren- Yurimaguas J gifo. Their churches are in good order. 94 -MOYOBAMBA. [Chap. IV. Xeveros This pueblo is the capital of the Missions of Maynas. Its church is * preciosa/ and well adorned. The curate is Friar Juan Pabon, of the Seraphic order. The High Regions of the Maranouy ^ i^or lo Colateral,^ also called the Missions of Maynas, Chayavitas Cahupanas Barranca Santiago Borja San Antonio These pueblos have their churches in good order, but are without curates. Santander Pinches Andoas Canelos These pueblos have likewise their churches in repair, and I presume that the curate of Amdoas, Friar Fernando Guerrero, of the Seraphic order, occasionally consoles these faithful. It is this curate's inten- tion to return to his native country of Quito shortly. Lower Regions of the Maranon, with the title and name of the Missions of Maynas, The only one of these pueblos that has a curate is San Regis : his name is Friar Pablo Marino, of the Seraphic order. All the other pueblos, although their churches are in order, are without curates, Loreto has been deserted, its inhabitants retiring into the woods : for which reason the diocesan Senor Fayas took away the sa- cred utensils and ornaments. Chamicuras Urarinas San Regis Omaguas Iquitos O ran Pebas Cochiquimas Camucheros Loreto Chap. IV.] MOYOBAMBA. 95 Tlie Last Pueblo, Putumayo I am ignorant of its church and of the state in which it is; l)ut I am certain that it has no curate. It is the hue where the he fore-mentioned government^ with the title and name of the Missions of Maynas, terminates. Note. — All the above-named pueblos observe the Catholic rites and ceremonies. The inhabitants pay great reverence to the sacred images, and assist at our temples with much circumspection and devotion, and principally at the hour of the sacred and awful sacrifice of the altar ; and they call incessantly for their spiritual teachers. This is all the information I can give with observance of truth, and of that confidence that has been placed in me. God preserve you, (Signed) Juan Servando Alvan. It is remarkable that this return is dated the 20th of October_, when the order for it is stated to have been given at Truxillo, on the 1st of October. I afterwards showed the letter I had received^ to the curate^ who expressed great satisfaction at its having been written^ as he said it afforded an opportunity of explaining several points that required explanation^, particularly the insufficient number of clergy in the province. He added, that it was his intention to become a secular clergyman. We saw the curate frequently whilst at Moyobamba^ and as he had, been much in the interior^ and expressed his 96 MOYOBAMBA. [Chap. IV, opinion that the accounts published by the Mission- aries Sobreviella and Girbal were not correct^ I requested he would give me any information he might possess^, and he accordingly wrote a short statement relative to the Huallaga^ of which the fol- lowing is a (translation.) This large (caudaloso) river is formed by streams that descend from the Cordilleras of Pasco, Yauri Cocha, Hua- malies, Patas, and Chachapoyas, until it arrives at those of Goran and Quinjalca. The largest tributary streams are, the Yauri Cocha, which is the origin; Huaniaca, which crosses by Huanaco; the Pantagas, that unites with the latter; the Muna-Chacla; Pueblo-Nuevo ; Monzon ; Pampacintico ; Huanuco; Fryol; Vella Huacamayo; Tanta Mayo; Uchizaj Espina, which is called the great Tocachi ; the Michoyo Chepte ; Chami- cha ; Pan de Arucar; Sion ; Valle ; the Huambo of Guaya- bamba; Saposoa; Moyo; Caynarachi; Sanuri^ CachiYaco; and the Haypena, which is next to the mouth, and the last tributary stream on the western side. On the east side are Laguicha, Balsa Yaco, Salinas, Huanuro, and Sara Yaco. All these rivers are fordable on foot during the dry season, with the exception of the Huriaca, Monzon, Uchiza, To- cachi, Michoyo, Huayabamba, Moyo, Haypena, Cachi Yaco, and Sara Yaco. The six last of these are navigable ; the others are not so, on account of the velocity with which they descend, and the floating obstacles that their currents bring down from the woods. The country about all these streams is inhabited by savages and Christians who have deserted from the pueblos situated on the banks of the Huallaora, ^ Chap. IV.] PROVINCE OF MAYXAS. 97 The names of the pueblos are, Chacla, Chico-Playa, Pneblo Nuevo, Ucliiza, Tochaci, Sion, Valle, Pachiza, Tanpa, Chasuta, Yurimaguas, Balsa Puerto, and Xeveros, which is eighteen leagues distant from the banks. On the opposite, or east side, are Laguna, Santa-Cruz, and Chami- curus. With the exception of Laguna and Xeveros, the other pueblos do not contain more than eighty married couples, who are almost as uncivilized as their forefathers. From the intendente I received some specimens, with an account of several productions of the country. Also a copy of **a Civil, Political, Military, and Ecclesiastical Return of the Authorities and the Offices held in the Province of Maynas." These I now add. Copy of an Account given by Don Damian JVagar, Inten- dente of Moyohamha, of the Productions of the Province of Maynas. Sugar — might be had in any quantity. The cane is large and good. It is ripe and fit to cut in eleven months from the time of planting. From want of information as to the proper method of extracting the sugar, a comparatively small quantity is produced, and it is not of a good colour. Value two dollars the aroba of twenty-five pounds. Cocoa. — Cacao grows wild in great abundance through- out the province, but principally, and of the best quality, towards the Ucayali. The intendente is a native of Gua- yaquil ; but is of opinion, that if cocoa was cultivated in the province of Maynas, it might be produced better, and in larger quantity, than at Guayaquil. The nuts are larger. Coffee, Café — is produced in abundance throughout the H 98 PROVINCE OF MAYNAS. [Chap. IV. province ; yields in greater proportion than in any other part of America; does not grow wild; value, a medio per pound. CoTT o'StAlgodon — is produced most abundantly at Llamas, Tarapota, and Sapo, in consequence of its being sown there; but is so plentiful throughout the province, that it is used for the commonest purposes, making sackcloth, &c. The cotton of the Ucayali, hke most other productions, is of the best quality : it is as soft as silk. Value, with the seed in finest quality, six rials the aroba; coarser, four rials. Indigo, Spanish Aíiil, Indian Yangu. — Two kinds, large and small. The smaller is the best. The Peruvian method of dyeing with the small indigo is to put the leaves into hot water, and let them boil once ; after which a quantity, no fixed proportion of water strained from wood-ashes, is added, and the cloth to be dyed put in immediately. The leaves of the large indigo are not boiled, but steeped in cold water for about three days, until decayed, when the ' legea,' water, strained from wood-ashes is added. The cloth to be dyed is then put in, allowed to remain for about an hour, and afterwards hung up to dry. The colour produced is according to the quantity of leaves. A less quantity of the small leaves produces not only a deeper but a brighter colour. The plant of the small indigo is here about six feet high. The large is about twelve feet high, with a stem of two or three inches diameter. The small is the most abundant from its being most used, and consequently most sown. It grows wild, but is generally cultivated by persons for their own use. It is seldom sold, but if sold, a basket holding about two pecks of the leaves might be worth a medio. All the dyes of the Ucayali are the best. A yellow dye something resembling heath in appearance. Chap, IV.] PROVINCE OF MAYNAS. 99 The white milky juice of a tree that burns the skin like caustic. The tree is large, and grows wild, principally about Llamas : it is not applied to any use. Cascarilla, Jesuits or Peruvian bark — grows wild in the woods in great abundance ; the best immediately round Moyobamba. There are several kinds, dark coloured, and red, which is the best, and preferred for extracting ^ quinin.* Value, twelve rials the aroba. The intendente complained that he had suffered from speculations in cascarilla, there being no means of export- ing it. Balsam Capivi — is obtained from all the countries of the missions about the Ucayali, but not at Moyobamba. Some of the trees from which it is extracted will give sixty pounds. The manner of extracting it is, cutting the tree through to the hollow, inside, and fixing a board, sloping downwards, for the balsam to run into a cup that is placed to receive it. A new balsam lately discovered ; its name not known; sent to the intendente by his uncle, who is prefect of the missions on the Ucayali. It is extracted from a very large tree, and is to be had in abundance. Its appearance is that of a yellow fragrant oil, but its qualities are not known. Gum Copal — much found in all parts of the Montana, but inferior to that of India. Value, one dollar the aroba. Carana — plentiful in all parts of the province, but prin- cipally about the Ucayali. It is extracted from a tree, and used for rheumatic pains by being applied outwardly. Value, a rial or a medio per pound. L\ Tapy. — The bark of a tree that grows wild round Moyobamba, and is plentiful. The bark is about an inch thick; used medicinally as an emetic, and otherwise of no value. Yellow Oil, Aceyte Amarillo — got in all parts of the H2 100 PROVINCE OF MAYNAS. [Chap. IV. Montana; used medicinally as a plaster for wounds. It is ob- tained from a tree, and is very plentiful. Of no fixed value. Other gums, but not known. Laurel Wax, very abundant, but not used on account of bees' wax being plentiful. At Caxamarca and Chachapoyas it is used for candles. Bees' Wax — white, got from bees that make their nests in trees. Ditto, black, made by bees that have holes in the ground. The white is used for making candles. Flax, Lino — might be produced in abundance, but is not generally raised, partly from the natives not knowing how to prepare it, and partly from cotton being so abundant that there is no demand for it. It does not grow wild, but some old men tried an experiment, and found it grow large and fine. Rice — much is not grown ; the best is towards the Ucayali, where it equals that of Guyaquil. Value, a real a pound. Natural Pitch or Bitumen — found near Pebas, and said to be used by the Portuguese for their vessels. Mines of Sulphur — not worked. On another occasion the intendente said he would undertake to supply the following articles in the quantities and at the prices affixed. Cascari'lla — any quantity, one or two thousand arobas, either the thick bark or quill ; to be delivered at Loretto for five dollars the aroba. Balsams generally. Balsam Capivi — three or four thousand pounds, at the Chap. IV.] PROVINCE OF mAyN.^S 101 rate of three dollars for four pounas fou) o-unce?, oDa-iish -weight or measure ; to be delivered at Moyobamba or Balsa Puerto. Copal — five hundred to a thousand arobas ; to be de- livered at Balsa Puerto, at two dollars the aroba. Dragon's Blood — if time were given, much might be collected ; but it is here so little used or called for, that it has no fixed value. It appeared to mc altogether, that, from the want of communication, and of any thing* like a regular demand, the true value of these productions was not understood. Some_, amongst which was balsam ca- pivi, were absurdly high; whilst others, and amongst those perhaps some of the most valuable,, were marked of no value^ from there being no demand for them. província de maynas. Instruccion Civil, Politico, Militar, y Ecleciastica Demonstra- tiva de las Corporaciones y Destinos que forman la Provincia de Maynas. CORPORACIONES MILITARES. NOMBRES. GRADOS. D. Damian Nagar . . . Sargto. Mayor de Esto. y Intendte. y Comandte. Mans. D. Ysidoro Reatequi . . Tente Coronel y Comdte. de Civicos. D. Felipe Davila . , : . Sargto. Mayo de yd. 102 : • c, ' B^OVINCE OF MAYNAS. RECINACION DE [Chap H Las Ciudades y Pueblos. Gobernadores. m Parroeos. Moyobamba^ Ciudad Soriter . Lamas, Ciudad Tabalosos . Tarapota. Chasuta . / Saposoa Piscoyaco Juan Puy Pachisa Balle . W O ^ J Si > o o )^ O I— I O < I' ion Tocachi Huchiso Pueblo Nuevo Chico Playa Chaclla . Muua . ^Balsa puerto Chayavitas Cahuapanas Xeveros Barranca . Santiago Borja Sanantonio San Andres Pinches Andoas Canelos Muniches , Yurimaguas Santa Crux Chamicuros Laguna '' Urarinas San Regis Omaguas Iquitos Gran Pevas . Cochiquinas Camacheros Loreto Ucayali Santa Rosa I Felis Murriera . Bernabe Davila Jn. Bantista Davila Mateo Schapiama Grego. Rios . Manl. Romero D. Jose Ma. Vasqs. D. Juan Vela D. Maleo Portocarreu D. Marrin Lops. D. Mateo Davila D. Faustino Rucoba D. Viste Peres . D. Guilleamo Arebata D. Jose Manl. Rengifo. D. Banta. Valera D. Narsico Melo D. Sigo Losano . D. Fortunato Sumalta F. Pablo Marino . . D. Faustino Villaris D. José Manl. Ramir D. José Malafaya D. Cario Roso . , D, Pedro Querra D. Jn. Nunes íD. Jn. Servdo. Alvan \F. Juan de la Torre . D. José Anto. Reategi F. Eusevio Arias , • • • ^ • • D. José Ma. Dias , F. Ramro, Basadre • D. Juan Rengifo • F. Juan Pavon . , F. Ferndo. Guerrero El Mismo F. Pablo Marino M.R.P. G.Fr. Manuel -'» idip. IV.] PROVINCE OF MAYNAS. 103 } CIVILES. ECLECIASTICAS. Gobcruadores. OBSERVACIONES. i aides. Regidores. Procu- radores. So.Prefto. Apiro. Vicários. Ciiras. 2 5 1 1 1 • « • • • • ft ft 1 1 2 1 ft ft 1 1 1 • 2 • • 1 • • • ft ft • 1 ft • 1 1 1 2 1 • • « ft 1 1 • 1 • • ■ « • « • • • • • • • • ft t • • ft 1 ft ft • • • • • • t m • ft ft • ft ft Caresen de Curas • • • • • • • • • • « • • • • • • • • • • • • • • . . ft ft • • t • ft ft ft ft ft • • t • • 1 • » 1 ft • 1 Carese de Cura * • • • • • • • • • • • • ft ft • • • • • ft « • • • ■ • ft ft Yd Yd • • • • ft • « • 1 • • • • • • • • [ • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • ft • • • • « • • • • ft • • • ft • • • • • • • • ft • « • ft ft ft ft • • ■ ft • ft ft • • ft ft • • ft • • ft ft • ft ft ft • ft • • ft . . ft ■ ft • • • ft • a • • • • 1 ft • • ft • • • • 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Soccoridopor El Sr. D. Julian Rengifo Yd Yd Caresen - Yd "i'd 'id \d 1- • • • • ft ft ft ft 1 104 MOYOBAMBA. [Chap. IV. By double altitudes^ which I took at Moyobamba, the altitudes being- taken with a sextant and artificial horizon_, the polar angle found, by calculating the time at each observation, and worked by Dr. Inman*s method, and with his tables, I made the latitude,, By one set of sights * ^MK • " ^ • 3^' ^•^"' ^• By another set «^^B • 5.30' 4.3". S. I was particular in endeavouring to ascertain the position of Moyobamba^ inasmuch as I supposed, from its having been a principal station of the mis- sionaries, that they w^ould probably^ when proceeding to the interior^ carry on their calculations as to the bearings and distances of other places from Moyo- bamba. • With the exception of Truxillo and the city of Caxamarca^ it had appeared to me that most of the stations we passed through were incorrectly laid down ; and I had endeavoured to account for their being so, by supposing that astronomical observa- tions not having been made, and dead reckonings only being attempted^ sufficient allowance had not been made for the numerous ascents, descents, and windings of the road, whereby the direct distances between some places are reduced from Spanish leagues^ which have been travelled, into English miles ; and that^ in order to obtain something like the dis- tance travelled between stations upon the maps_, they had been laid down without regard to relative bear- mgs. Chap. IV.] MOYOBAMBA. 105 It has been seen that two distinct sets of my ob- servations, taken at Moyobamba, came out within half a mile of each othei% being- 5.30 15" s., and 5.30' 43" s., placing- it about a degree and a half to the northward of the position usually assigned to it on maps ; where it is generally laid down a degree to the southward of Chachapoyas, instead of being, as I suppose it, to the northward. The difference is enormous ; nevertheless I had flattered my.self I was correct, not only as the results of my observations ap- proximated as nearly as it is usual for double alti- tudes to approximate^ but I had spared no pains either in making the observations or calculations ; having calculated the time at each observation, in order to obtain with exactness the half elapsed time, one of the terms required, and which, had my chro- nometer not been damaged, I should have obtained by inspection. I now find that the circumstances under which I was placed scarcely admit of double altitudes being taken . Having assumed a latitude to calculate the time, and afterwards using the half elapsed time thus obtained to work out the latitude, the latitude found came out nearly the same as that assumed, and thus the work was not sound. Further^ the rapidity with which the sun rises thus near the equator scarcely ad- mits of observations beino- taken within those limits of time and bearing which the problem requires. I retain my latitude of Moyobamba, because I con- 106 MOYOBAMBA. [Chap. IV. ceive I am still nearer the truth than the missionaries^ or by whomever else it has been laid down ; but as it is my object rather to attempt the correction than the publication of errors^ I shall confine myself to en- deavouring to make such corrections as the local in- formation I obtained may enable me to do, without giving more astronomical observations. On the evening of the 1st of January, we accom- panied the intendente to a dance^ given to celebrate the coming in of the new year. The dance was a king of fandango. The men were all dressed in jackets. Few of the ladies had gowns^ their gene- ral dress being a plain or embroidered chemise,, with a petticoat tied round the waist. Several were with- out shoes or stockings^ but almost all had gold chains, ear-rings, &c. some of which were heavy. Soon after entering, an old lady challenged me as her partner. I complied as a matter of course, but took the earliest opportunity the rules of the dance admitted, to obtain a younger and more in- teresting associate. Mr. Hinde and the intendente were in very general request, and shone throughout the evening. Whilst the higher classes were dancing inside, the lower orders were performing the old Inca dance out of doors^ much in the same manner that we had seen it at Contumasa. Dancing being ended in the house, a ring was formed outside, and some of the most active and powerful of the Indians wrestled before the intendente and the ladies. The manner ^ Chap. IV.l MOYOBAMBA. 107 of wrestling" was by tying a strong- cotton band (not a cord_, but flat) round the shoulders, and behind the back. The opponents fixed their hands in the bands round each other's shoulders, and the struggle commenced. In conclusion some boys were matched and the party broke up ; the intendente being pre- ceded to his house by the Indian dancers, who were not very sober, and made considerable noise with their shouts and musical instruments. During* the entertainments aquadiente, punch, and a fermented liquor called * guarapo^' were handed round to the ladies very freely. The Saturday afternoon following we again ac- companied the intendente^ riding down to the landing-places of the river abreast the city, which are the markets to see the country people bring their canoes loaded with produce for sale. The principal commodity was plantains, used at Moyobamba as a substitute for bread, and, indeed, on which the greater part of the inhabitants principally live, meat being scarce and difficult to be got. Plantains were sold in the market at the rate of two large bunches for a real ; they were dearer in the city in conse- quence of the steep bank of the table-land, up which they had to bq carried. Some of the people from the chacras were particularly meagre in their appear- ance, and the children swollen in the stomach. As we rode along the bank of the river to the different landing-places, we passed between nume- rous guava trees, loaded with ripe fruit, which, though 108 MOYOBAMBA. [Chap. IV. fine^ was not used; The buyers and sellers^ with their plantains^ were collected in groups^ with the canoes in which the supply had been brought^, wait- ing to convey the owners back to their chacras^ or passing with fresh stock to the markets. The intendente had several boys and girls belong- ing to different tribes on the Ucayali ; they were dark coloured and*stout^ but not good figures ; and with the exception of one boy^ they appeared rather harsh and determined than either quick or intelligent. They had different kinds of weapons, mostly bows. Some of them were said to belong to cannibal tribes ; and we were told that both the father and mother of the more intelligent boy had been eaten. The in- tendente employed them in his chacra, and men- tioned^ as an anecdote of one of the boys^ that he would sleep out there at night with his dog, without regarding the ' tigres^' which were far from uncom- mon, had been seen about the chacra^ and are at- tracted by dogs. The boy was aware of their being so, but was not afraid. The intendente at the same time told us, that he had sent two men from the Ucayali, who had made some disturbances^ to serve as recruits, towards the coast ; they had escaped and found their way back to the Ucayali, w^ithout having been seen in any of the mtervening pueblos. On Monday the 7th of January,, having obtained all the information we were able to collect, v/e pre- pared for another departure. According to the intendente's advice^ we had resolved on proceeding N Chap. IV.] MOYOBAMBA. 109 by a place called Balsa Puertcf^ distant five days journey on foot from Moyobamba^ the road not being passable for mules. At Balsa Puerto we were to embark in canoes, on a small river called the Cachi Yaco^ descend it to the Guallaga^ and down that river^ to the Mararion_, entering- the latter not far below where it becomes navigable. During our stay at Moyobamba we had received every possible mark of attention from the intendente. On our first arrival he had requested we would accept the use of his table, as we would find it difficult either to purchase provisions or to get them cooked : he had exerted himself to get us speci- mens^ give us information, and make necessary preparations for our proceeding. I wish_, therefore^ it was in my power to speak of him in other respects, as I have presumed to do of Don Mariano Castro ; but that could not be done with truth. We had too much reason to believe all was not well between him and the people over whom he governed ; and over whom_, from the almost impassable state of the roads^ and the important and immediate objects that occu- pied the attention of the supreme government_, he might be said to possess almost uncontrolled autho- rity. He might be feared by some^ but, Í doubt_, respected by very few. The higher classes were engaged in plots against him^ some of which ex- ploded as we were leaving ; and when we afterwards heard the lower classes express their opinion^ it was not favourable. 110 MOYOBAMBA. [Chap. IV. He was a native of Guayaquil ; and was originally in the King- of Spain's army_, but joined the repub- lican cause at the commencement of the revolution, and served under General Bolivar^ by whom, as he informed us, he was appointed Captain in an English Colombian battalion, and afterwards promoted to the rank of Major. On General BoUvar's coming to Peru^ he was sent with a detachment to Moyobamba,, where he married^ and was appointed intendente. It is not improbable that his uncle^ who is prefect of the missions on the Ucayali^ may have assisted him in obtaining and keeping the appointment of intendente. <^ One circumstance that struck both Mr. Hinde and ^ myself, was the intendente's introducing us, as we were about to leave Moyobamba, to a person who had come down the Napo from Colombia^ and was then about to return : this person, we were told^ was a native of Moyobamba ; but there was a mystery about him and his business at Moyobamba, that was not easy to be understood. He was evidently endea- vouring to draw people away with him^ and had in- duced an elderly woman^ I believe a widow, and one of the principal persons in Moyobamba^ and who had lost two sons in the service of their country^ to commit her two remaining sons to his charge, by way of taking care of them. The impression on my mind on first beholding this man was, that with the exception that his countenance would betray him, he was more thoroughly cut out for a spy than any N Chap. IV.] M. DU BAYLE. HI other person I had ever beheld ; and from the httle we afterwards saw of him^ the disgust at first felt was increased into the most entire contempt. We had intended starting early, but were detained first by some specimens not being quite ready^ and afterwards by some of the Indians^ who were to carry our baggage, being missing. In the morning Mons. Du Bayle came to take leave of us ; and whilst assisting to pack up the few things we had to carry, more than once expressed a wish that circumstances would allow him to accom- pany us. I scarcely knew what to think of M. Du Bayle : from his manner it was evident that he had been accustomed to civilized society ; and from his conversation^ that he possessed considerable infor- mation on several subjects ; still there was a want of decision^ or rather a want of execution, about him. He had numberless projects, but did not appear to get through with any ; and those he went the furthest in were the least likely to answer. He had purchased, or at least exchanged knives^ &c. with the intendente for a large quantity of Cascarilla ; and his idea was to build a raft, and float it down the Maranon ; but before that could be done^ according to his plan, it must be carried on Indians' backs to Balsa Puerto^ and he would not only have difficulty in getting the Indians^ but would have to pay them at the rate of two dollars for every two arobas and a half, which the cascarilla was scarcely worth. His account of having been an officer in Napoleon's 112 M. DU BAYLE. [Chap. IV. army, and of his distress at the termination of the war, was plausible ; still, after getting up the Mara- iion, and^ according to his own account, encountering almost incredible difficulties^ instead of proceeding to the coast, where any information he might possess would have been eagerly caught at, and he might probably have obtained a lucrative and honourable appointment from the Peruvian government^ he said now he should not be able to accomplish a journey to the coast. 113 CHAPTER V. Journey on foot to Balsa Puerto — Manners of the Indians — Productions of tlie district. About four o'clock in the afternoon of Monday the 7th of January, finding* that all the Indians could not be collected tog-ether,, and that if we remained ano- ther day, a similar occurrence would probably take place^ we arrang-ed that Mr. Hinde should wait for the Indians that were wanting^ whilst I went on with those that were ready^, to a tambo^ about a league from the city, and on the opposite bank of the river. I had at first some difficulty in getting the Indians (who had been drinking chicha until they were nearly in- toxicated) away from the ranchos in the outskirts ; and after getting into a wood, through which the path led by the bank of the river^ I was surprised by coming suddenly on one of the cargoes which the Indian^ not liking the idea of his journey, had left, and made off; he had, however^ been honest enough to leave the two dollars he had received as his hire. There being no immediate remedy, I was compelled to shoulder the cargo^ until another Indian met us_, and took charo-e of it. We crossed the river in a canoe we found at the landing-place^ and arrived at the tambo in good day -light ; but a large party, I 114 JOURNEY TO [Chap.V. amongst whom was the person from the Napo^ and the mother of the two lads committed to his charge^ who came to see her sons thus far on their journey^ had arrived before us. The tambo was entirely occupied; and the tent being one of the cargoes originally allotted to the Indians who had loitered^ my only plan was to col^ lect the bag'gage my Indians had brought_, near the jungle. The Napo man, who was walking about with a large crucifix in his hand, came up smiling* most facetiously, and began describing me to his party as a ^ pobre ' that was somewhat adrift. I understood more of his language than he perhaps at first imagined ; and he was presently given to under- stand that neither his affected sympathy, nor his inter- ference were needed. One point on which a British seaman prides himself is *' never to be adrift whilst ih^free air of heaven blows around him^ and he has wherewithal to support life." I smoked a cigar^ lay down on my baggage, and slept, until, towards the mornings I was awoke by rain^ but it did not fall heavily. Soon after daylight Mr. Hinde arrived^ coming down the river in a canoe, with the Indians^ and re- maining part of the baggage. We got some choco- late boiled for breakfast, and proceeded : the other party so far keeping company as to be near us. The path led almost entirely through the Montana, in some parts steep^ in others muddy_, whilst continued rain made the whole slippery^ and wet us to the skin. Chap, v.] BALSA PUERTO. 115 We had started to walk with stockings on, but after wading" through two or three brooks^ finding they only tended to retain the mud and water_, I rid myself of mine. Our shoes had been made for us at Moyobamba^ according to a plan pointed out by the intendente. The upper parts were coarse tucuya, with thin leather soles, so that we could keep our feet better in them ; and when soaked with mud they might occasionally be washed. We stopped once or twice during the day to let the men with their cargoes rest ; and about three in the afternoon, having come five leagues, we arrived at a small tambo, where^ at the request of the Indians^ we stopped for the night. As we were striking our tent in the morning, a respectable looking man, whom the intendente had mentioned to us, and recommended to overlook the Indians on the passage, came up with an Indian who carried his bed and provisions. He had been go- vernor of a pueblo, but had resigned ; and was then on his return from Moyobamba, where he had been on business, to his family at Balsa Puerto. As he offered his services, we were glad to accept them^ and had afterwards no cause to repent having done so. Crossing a clear mountain-stream, called the Ru- mi-agua, which, 1 believe, signifies the stream of rocks, we ascended a steep path, and shortly came to an open hilly country covered with grass, where the traces of old Peruvian cultivation were again visible. I 2 116 JOURNEY TO [Chap. V. They were not extensive_, and had rather the ap- pearance of patches cultivated as a temporary re- source^ than of any lasting extensive settlement ; and if^ as I have supposed might have been the case^ the subjects or descendants of the Incas retreated through the Montana to avoid the Spaniards, these might have been some of their traces. As we did not meet with any vestiges of ancient cultivation beyond this^ and as they had been formed in a manner pecu- liar to Peru, and well adapted to take advantage of all moisture,, I shall endeavour to describe them. On the steep sides of the Andes furrows were made in arches one above another^ so that rain falling on the uppermost of these arches descended down its sides^ on to the tops of those immediately below it; and again down their sides on to the tops of others^ until the water was all soaked up, or at least had passed through all the arched fur- rows. If the pampa or level at the bottom of the steep was cultivated^ and the water had not been en- tirely expended^ it was still applied in a manner likely to afford the greatest benefit for irrigation, by the furrows being twisted interminably, thus --> c o c -^ c 3 Chap, v.] BALSA PUERTO. 1 17 The country here being* entirely unoccupied, we asked Valera, our new guide or companion, if the grass, which appeared to be good, would not feed cattle? His answer was, ^' Como no?" Why not? but he added that the woods were so full of tig-res the cattle would soon be destroyed. The path over the open ground being tolerable, we got on faster than the day before, and by noon had walked up- wards of three leagues. We then stopped to de- scansar, and make our mid-day meal ; and in about half an hour again started. We had not proceeded far, when the track rather resembled the ratlins of a ship s rigging than a road. The steps were formed by the roots of trees, which a growth of ages had matted on the sides of steep ridges, whilst the rains had washed the earth from between them. The ascents, though fatiguing, were not difficult, but in descending we wanted something to hold on by ; as the branches at which we caught not unfrequently broke, whilst the thorns on others cut our hands. In the course of the afternoon we crossed two mountain-streams, one above, and the other below a cascade. About four o'clock the leading Indians, with whom I was, came to a small tambo near a third stream. I was inclined to stop, not only as my feet felt the effects of the day's journey, but I began to think that Mr. Hinde and Valera, who were with the slower peons, would not be able to get their party further. But the Indians, whom we hitherto had to urge on, freshening their pace, and becoming more 118 JOURNEY TO [Chap. V. cheerful^ I supposed that a large tambo, "vvhich Va- lera had mentioned, was not far oíF, and allowed them to proceed. About a league further^, we reached the pingello^, or shinbone tambo. The first operation^ after laying down the cargoes,, was to cut in two a tree that had fallen^ and was in the way of pitching the tent. Before sunset all was completed, the tent pitched, and some chocolate boiled for supper ; but Mr. Hinde and Valera had not arrived. It began to grow dusk, and as we neither saw nor heard them, I made the Indians shout and whistle^ and joined myself in hallooing Mr. Hinde's name^ in order that they might know where we were. Our voices rang through the woods, and were echoed by the hills^ but the only answer we received was a shrill whistle from some bird that was startled. It became dark^ and I then knew they could not travel the road we had come. About eight in the morning they made their appearance, when it turned out that they had stopped at the small tambo. We got some chocolate for breakfast^ and proceeded, keeping more together, with the Indians before us. After passing for a short distance through woods, we came to the bed of a powerful mountain-stream, along which our route led towards the n.e. for about four leagues. During the latter part of the rainy season this stream is much increased by the waters from the Sierra, when tearing up trees, and washing away the soil, it leaves nothing but rocks, and a sandy gravel within its range. Over and amongst these we had Chap, v.] BALSA PUERTO. 119 now to scramble^ wading the stream to avoid its turnings, about twenty times ; whilst our feet suffered not a httle from the gravel. Leaving this stream^ we came to another, running over a muddy bed, along which we proceeded to the southward. We had been detained by one of the peons, who had knocked a nail off his foot; and as we had not seen the other Indians since the morning, it appeared probable they might again get further than we should be able to follow. We therefore requested Valera, who knew the roads, to push on, and stop them, which he did ; and about four o'clock, we all met at a tambo. The evening was fine ; and after pitching our tent, we were amused by the noise of a variety of beetles, one of which was so loud, that we supposed it must pro- ceed from some larger animal, until the party assured us it was only an ^ animaleta.' On the 11th, the path led at first through a tole- rably level part of the woods, until about ten o'clock we came to a cascade formed by a stream thirty or forty yards broad, rushing down a rock, about fifty yards in length, at an angle of about forty-five degrees. We had to cross the brink ; the current was strong, and the depth of the water, in some parts, up to our hips. I was again with the leading party, and came to the bank to cross, just as a young Indian girl, who had accompanied her father to cook, and who had excited our astonishment by the manner in which she had kept up, was endea- vouring to pass : she had got towards the deepest 120 JOURNEY TO [Chap. V. part of the stream, when the current was too strong, and she was in the act of falling". The Indians saw it^ and gave a general shout ; whilst the girl^ with the most complete composure,, drew herself upright^ stepped a little backwards, and stood with the water rushing past her, until several hurried to her assis- tance. Had she been alarmed and confused she would, in all probability, have been dashed to atoms. After crossings we stopped to shake off the wet, and re-adjust the cargoes ; and^ in the mean time, Mr. Hinde and Valera came up with the remainder of the party. Coming* to the place where the girl had nearly been lost^ Mr. Hinde fell: fortunately he threw himself up the stream, and Valera, who was close behind, gave an additional proof of his enter- prise and activity, by saving him. After all were across, we were told that the name of the place is ^ Pumi Yaco,' tigre water, and that one of the party had seen a deer killed in attempting to pass : before noon W'O reached a tambo, and stopped to descansar. Again starting, we came to a point from which we had a view between some of the last ridges of the Andes, of the vast plain that lies beyond them : its boundary was the horizon ; and though covered with wood it looked like the sea. Almost immedi- ately afterwards we reached the brink of a descent, called by the natives * Escalera,' the staircase. It was in some parts nearly perpendicular, with holes cut in the side to step into ; and is of such height as to take an Indian, with a cargo, from five in the N Chap, v.] BALSA PUERTO, 121 morning until noon to get up it. Coming to this place the clouds threatened a heavy squall, and the leading Indian and myself pushed on as fast as the descent would allow us, to reach a tambo that was on a small level. We got in just as some heavy drops were beginning to fall^ and were the only two of the party that escaped ; the others comjng in thoroughly drenched. As soon as the squall was over, we continued to descend ; but_, accustomed as we had now become not only to the Andes but the Montana^ this place surprised us. After descending for two hours, we came to a ladder made of two tall palm trees, with twenty-six cross pieces as steps. I can only add, that accustomed as I have been to going aloft,, this staircase descent made the joints of my knees crack, every bone in my skin ache, and the perspiration run from every pore. Immediately on reaching the bottom was a broad stream, called ' Escalera Yaco,' staircase water, which descending rapidly amongst rocks, was so much swollen, and its force increased by the late squall, that we were obliged to wait until it had a little subsided, when we waded it either nine or ten times, in some parts up to our waists, and the Cachi Yaco, a broad, but in this part, shallow river, once. Whilst wading the Cachi Yaco to a tambo on the opposite bank, we observed several Indians collected round two temporary sheds, on a point of the bank we were leaving. These, Valera told us, were the friends of our peons^ who having heard of their approach, had 1 122 JOURNEY TO [Chap. V. come from Balsa Puerto to meei them^ with a supply of ' chicha^' made from chewed yucas. As soon, therefore^ as our tent was pitched, and the cargoes deposited, the Indians recrossed the river_, preceded by pandean pipes and a kind of fife made out of the thigh bone of some animal. On the 12th we came again to the Cachi Yaco_, which we waded twice where it was deep enough to wet my jacket. It was about a hundred yards broad^ but not rapid. We had afterwards to pass some steep^ though not high ridges ; at one of which Mr. Hinde broke down_, the transition occasioned by wading, after coming down the staircase descent, having brought on cramp. We reached Balsa Puerto about eleven o'clock. Valera had pusiied on before us, being anxious to see his family. We had requested him to inform the governor of our coming, and that we had letters for him ; but on our arrival we learnt that the governor had been absent a week fishing, and that his return was uncertain. As we could not obtain the means of proceeding during his absence, I immediately requested the cura- ca_, an Indian who is elected by the Indians, and con- firmed by the government, as ruler over the Indians for life, and who is next to the governor in authority, to despatch a ' próprio,' messenger, to inform the governor of our having arrived with passports and official letters from his government. The curaca excused himself from any delay that might take place as to our proceeding, by assuring us, that the M Chap, v.] BALSA PUERTO. 123 Indians were ^ the sons of obedience/ and that lie could do nothing" without the (governor's orders. The old man was particularly attentive, and appeared inclined to do all in his power. On his arrival Valeia had got bed places made for us_, with small bamboos, in a room of a house built fur a padre, but which was not occupied ; and we according-ly took tem- porary possession. In the evenino- we walked towards the landinsf- places^ or, as they are there called, the ports of the river. The stream at the part we went down to, was divided by a dry bank of sand in midbhips, on which several laro-e trees, that had been brouo-ht down by the high floods, had grounded, and become partly buried. Between this bank and the sides of the river, there appeared to be sufficient water for canoes, but not much more. The pueblo is not immediately on the bank of the river. The ranchos are built separately, with a space between each, yet so as to form one wide street; and there is a kind of plaza, with the church in the centre. The manner of building the ranchos at Balsa Puerto is entirely different from that of the coast. With the exception of the church, and the gover- nor's and curate's houses, which were plastered, and the latter divided into apartments, the ranchos of Balsa Puerto consist each of a single room, from twenty to thirty yards long, and about a third of the 124 MÂIWERS OF [Chap. V. leno-th in breadth. The sides are made of small bamboos^ six or seven feet long-, placed vertically, and close tog^ether ; but^ from their inequalities, ad- mitting light and air. The roofs are made of the leaves or branches of palms, the leaves on one side of the stem being turned back, so as to make them double ; and three stems or branches placed over each other on the roof — thus jJÍMiJmi'miéjaáÍMléipiÍ^ilifSiáiiiJ^UJ»L^ The roofs are supported by piles driven into the ground, with poles lashed to them, and sloping up- wards ; so that the ranchos are some of them twenty or thirty feet high in the middle part of the roof, whilst the sides are not more than six or seven. The roofs require renewing every three or four years, and are not entirely w^ater proof during heavy rain. There are no windows, the inequalities of the bam- boos that form the walls admitting sufficient light and air. The doors are made of bamboos tied toge- ther, instead of being fixed into the ground. These ranchos have a neat appearance outside^ and the interior of those we looked into was clean. They contain little furniture beyond a few cooking uten- sils, and straw hammocks ; and four or five married couples live in each rancho. ^ Chap. V.J THE INDIANS. 125 We followed a path a short distance beyond the pueblo^ and found the country was not entirely covered with wood. Some cattle, which we after- wards understood to belonc^ to the former governor, were feedino-, and were in fine condition. Ikinsr near sunset,, we met several Indians returning- from their chacras. The men had their pucunas in their hands, and netted bag-s filled with fruit, Sec, slung- across their backs. Most of them had also different coloured feathers, red and yellow, suspended from their necks. The women carried cargoes that ap- peared to be heavier than the bags and pucunas of the men. Both sexes had their faces and various parts of their bodies stained with red and purple dyes; which, added to their figures not being good, their dark complexion, and the long black hair of the men, as well as women, gave them a barbarous ap- pearance ; but they were peaceable in their manners, and most of them saluted us as we passed. Whether it was from so much wading having driven the blood to our heads, or from over exertion and straining of the muscles, we could not sleep soundly, although much fatigued ; and in the morn- ino' the muscles of both Mr. Hinde's legs and my own were much swelled. Sunday being here kept as a day of suspension from duty, the Indians were all painted in their best style, dressed in clean white or blue frocks and trow- sers, and their hair ornamented with a few red and yellow feathers tied to tails behind. They collected 126 MANNERS OF [Chap. V- at an early hour, and went quietly and respectably to the church, where they remained about half an hour^ although there was no clerg-yman to officiate. Hav- ing* returned in a similar manner^ the day's amuse- ments commenced, the most favourite of which ap- peared to be dancing to the music of drums and fifes made of bones; whilst they occasionally partook freely of chewed yucachicha. The dyes with which they stained themselves were evidently considered first-rate ornaments : some had red stripes or diamonds on their forehead ; others a red stripe downwards under each eye; and several were rouged; a purple dye was applied as a substitute for whiskers^ beards, and mustachios ; whilst some of the females had supplied themselves with boots of the same material. A tall stout deputy of the curaca's, who appeared to be con- sidered one of the most fashionable of the party, had a red stripe under each eye, and red or yellow fea- thers in his hair. There were several deputies to the curaca, their badge of office being a small supple stick, with which they inflict punishment on their fellow Indians, whenever the curaca deems it neces- sary. The deputies did not consider it beneath their dignity to join in the general amusements, but, on the contrary, were the musicians, going about from rancho to rancho playing most cheerfully, until to- wards the evening, when the chicha produced an effect, and several, not excepting females, were in- toxicated. In the course of the day the próprio returned from ^: I Chap, v.] THE INDIAXS. 127 the governor^ but without briugnig* any answer to our message. On Monday morning all the women of the pueblo mustered in the plaza, to know what work they were to perform; there being a law which obHges them to labour for a certain time during the first three days of each week, in keeping the pueblo clean, or other- wise, as the governor may direct. We were cm- ployed during the day in airing such of our clothes^ &c. as had been damaged by the Indians in wading, and in endeavouring to get an account of some seeds I had picked up on the walk from Moyobamba. We found the natives far from intelligent ; several of the seeds were not known ; and although the district we had passed through abounded with the trees from which cascarilla is produced, I had not been able to learn which was it. The account given of the seeds was as follows: — ^' Acorns, with red cups, some found the day after leaving Moyobamba, called by the Indians, the *^ janu muena^' or slender muena. There are three kinds of muenas, and this is called the slender from its hav- ing the smallest leaves. The tree is large, some- times straight, and sometimes crooked ; is said to be plentiful on the banks of the rivers as ii\r as La- guna. The wood is durable, of a yellowish colour ; is used for building, making doors, and canoes. The other kinds of muenas are the red and white; their seeds do not resemble acorns, and their wood is inferior. Alforo, a large tree^ equal in size to the cedar, 128 PRODUCTIONS. LChap.V. grows principally about Moyobamba, and is scarce at Balsa Puerto. The wood is of a red tinge^ and is used for carpenter's work. The seeds are rounds and about the size of chesnuts. The leaves are also rounds and between two and three inches in diameter. One man said a yellow oil or gum is extracted from this tree by cutting the bark. If, as I suppose^ Yescerokiro and Asarkiro were intended to mean the same tree, although from the difference in two persons' pronunciations I have spelt the name differently in my note book, the accounts do not agree. Account given by an old Indian : — Yescerokiro, a tree as large as the cedar ; the wood not used;, as it is soft and does not last. The seed small, and is contained inside a tube. Account afterwards given by the governor of Balsa Puerto : — Asarkiro, a large tree, resembles the cascarilla : the best wood ; it is not hard, but lasts thirty or forty years in a house ; it is plentiful. Cani, a branchy tree. Lindano, a thick but not high tree. Ramos, a kind of palm : the fruit is used as an ornament at Caxamarca. Cinami, a palm : the fleshy part of the fruit is eaten. Aquasi, a tall palm: the fruit eaten. Indian pona, Spanish tara- pota_, a palm : the fruit not used. Piu coroto, a palm. Sachochape, a shrub : the seed grows directly out from the branch ; not used. Bocanavi, a creeper : the seed is produced in a large pod, and is used as a remedy for the bite of snakes, by splitting and placing it directly over the wound : it is sometimes ^ Chap, v.] PRODUCE. 129 called the *" deer's-eye. ' Kinillo, a creeper that bears a fruit of the shape and colour of a lime, but not larger than a damson ; the fruit is sweet, and is eaten ; monkeys feed upon it. Another creeper, not so large as the former, bears a yellow fruit which is of the size and shape of a sloe, is sweet, and is eaten. Numerous oval-shaped seeds as large as walnuts ; brown outside, and covered with a thin fleshy substance, on which we were told wild turkeys feed. I understood from an old Indian, that thev were the seeds of the white, or, as he called it, ^ cipre muena.' There were also small round acorns, the cups of which were not red, and in w'hich the acorn scarcely showed itself beyond the cup. 1 supposed them to be the seeds of one of the rauenas, as they appeared to be distinct from the acorn with red cups ; but we were shown an entirely different kind of seed, as belonofinof to one of the muenas. In the afternoon the governor returned, and fnid- inor- he was not correct in having- been so long- absent from his pueblo, and in not answering our message, he came to our quarters to explain and apologise. As he was going away again, he observed some chips, (Sec. about our door, and wishing to make up for past neglect by present attention, he gave peremp- tory orders for their beinsr removed. In a few moments twenty or thirty men and women, under the direction of onci of the curaca's deputies, were busily employed in carrying these orders into efiect, K N 130 PRODUCTIONS OF [Chap. V. apparently not a little surprised at the suddenness with which they had been given^ and amusing* us by their sag-acious looks and earnest manner of going* about the work. Early on the 15th we went to the governor's house, when I got from him what information I could relative to the productions of the country, and bought a few specimens^ with some provisions for our passage: amongst the latter were some dried monkeys, recommended for our own private stocky they being considered greater delicacies than the dried wild boars^ with which we were to feed the Indians. * Account of Productions given by the Governor of Balsa Puerto : — Balsam capivi^ got from the woods immediately round Balsa Puerto. Storax^ estoráque, obtained only in small quantities^ in consequence of the people not knowing how to extract the gum. The trees are plentiful, and the bark is pounded to make incense, /Vs which is used in the churches. A gum, got from a small tree, the bark of which somewhat resembles that of the cherry tree. This gum is mixed with the storax to make incense, and the tree is in conse- quence called the incense tree. It is plentiful in all parts of the Montana, throughout the province of Maynas. Almonds ; large quantities grow v/ild in the woods : the trees are at present in flower (January 15th). Dragon's-blood^ to be had about Balsa Chap, v.] BALSA PUERTO. 131 Puerto^ but is got principally from Laguna. A black wax^ called pitch, got from a tree. There were several tons of this wax belonging to the intendente of Moyobamba, lying in the veranda of the gover- nor's house. It had been collected by order of the intendente^ but was useless in consequence of there being no one to purchase it. The value placed on it by the governor was two reals a pound ; whilst he told us that at Pebas, Oran^ Cochiquenas, and Lo- retto_, the places where it was collected, it was worth four reals an aroba, or twenty-five pounds. Bees- wax, two kinds, white and blacky with yellow stripes. The white is the most valuable and the most plentiful : it is principally used in making candles for the churches. The black is used for making tapers. The bee from which the white wax is obtained is small, and makes its hives in the branches of trees. That which produces the black wax is large and blacky and makes its hives inside the trunks of old trees. Both are common on the banks of the Maranon. The value of the white wax is from six reals to a dollar a pound ; of blacky two reals a pound. Indigo^ anil, two kinds, the same as at Moyobamba ; both are plenti- ful. The small has seed, which is produced in pods. The large has no seed, and is raised by suckers. Cascarilla ; none got from Balsa Puerto in this governor's time^ but he believes it has been found and might still be obtained. Achióte^ the fruit of a tree containing small red seeds,, each about the size of a radish seed. This is one of the dyes used by k2 132 ACORNS, MUENA. [Chap. V. the Indians, and is^ I believe^ the same from which annato is prepared_, that is imported into England from Brazil, and used for colouring* cheese^ &c. Gagua, the size of a large apple; the Indians extract a ^ purple dye from it by boiling. The governor said that_, if he was required, he could send from one to two thousand of the muenas, that produced acorns with red cups_, down to Laguna, in three months. What tended to confirm the accounts given of the acorn muena, respecting which I made many inquiries, was, we were told, that at certain seasons the pigs belonging to the pueblo went into the woods, and fed on the fruit or acorns they picked up. At such times they became fat and in fine condition, whilst at others they were nearly starved. I cannot say that we saw many large muenas ; on the contrary, I was surprised when we embarked on the river to see the trees so small ; but I must add that it might have been the vast scale of the Andes that we had become accus- tomed to, and afterwards of the river itself^ that made us think them so ; in the same manner that on il my return to England the Thames appeared little more than an ^ Igarapé,' and the largest trees insig- nificant. Before leaving Lima, I had been told by different persons, and amongst others by the minister, that i would be necessary to supply myself with beads, knives^ fish-hooks^ ribbons^ &c.^ for the Indians, Chap, v.] FORJUER GOVERNOR. 133 which I had accordingly done ; and at Moyobamba I had got the intendente to give us some instructions as to the manner and rate of distributing them. They now were called for ; the canoe men, who were to go with us, were to be paid with knives, and those I had brought, being superior to others they had received before, were eagerly sought. I had also requested Valera to inquire amongst the Indians for seeds, or any other specimens, and to tell them that if they would come to our quarters, we would pay them for whatever they might have of the kind. As we were preparing to start, several came with long strings of seed necklaces, feathers, &c., for which they required yellow beads. As we were leaving our quarters, to go down and embark, the former governor, who had accompanied the present one, in his first visit to us, came to offer a couple of fowls, and a piece of bacon, for our pas- sage. He, at the same time, expressed regret at our having been detained, and assured us, that had he not been absent with the governor, he would have endea- voured to facilitate our proceeding. As the proba- bility was that we should never see this person again, his attention could scarcely proceed from any thing like selfish motives ; we therefore thanked him for it, and accepted his present. The cause of his having been superseded we did not learn ; but as far as we could judge, he was fully equal to his successor. He had contributed towards improving the pueblo, by bringing cattle to it at considerable trouble, and, to 134 FORMER GOVERNOR. [Chap. V. him_, expense. These he was now about to leave, as he did not intend to remain in the pueblo, and the probability was they might be lost_, or destroyed by the Indians. The present governor appeared to us more a commercial agent to the intendente of Moyobamba. > 135 i^t CHAPTER VI. Embark in canoes — Canoemen's manner of taking leave of their friends Numerous banks, trees, &c. — Bring-to a playa for the night — Indians' sleeping tents — Proceed at daylight — Sugar chacra — King of the vultures — ■ Manner of making a meal — Bring-to for second night — Prints of footsteps in the sand — Indians' preparations — Old and New Muniches — Junction of the Cachi Yaco with the Guallaga — Yurimaguas — Old Governor — Men come down the Guallaga, and from the Ucayali — Proceed down the Gual- laga — Santa Crux — Indian method of hunting — Laguna — Curiosity and manners of the Indians — Governor's account of the productions, &c, of his district — Padre's account — Engage fresh Indians and canoes. About one o'clock in the afternoon of Tuesday, the 15th of January, we went down to the port^ and tak- ing leave of Valera, and several other persons who came to see us ofF^ we embarked in two canoes, about twenty feet long, and two and a half broad^, each fitted with a thatched awning, or apalmacaya made of palm leaves^ high enough to sit upright under- neath. The baggage was divided ; but my canoe being rather the heaviest^, I had four men, three close forward^ and one abaft to steer ; while Mr. Hinde had only three in all. Shoving off', the Indians gave a general yell, which they continued for some time, and then blew on an instrument made of a bul- lock's horn^ with a hole cut in the side, the sound of which was loud and hollow. In the course of the afternoon the river varied repeatedly in its bearings, whilst it was so shallow 136 INDIAN CANOEMEN. [Chap. VI. that the canoes grounded more than once ; and i^ required a good iook-out and some management to keep clear of trees that had been brought down by the high floods, and were partly buried in the sand^ whilst their branches were in some parts barely dis- cernible by the ripplings of the current, which run on an averaofe from four to five miles an hour. About five o'clock, having come five or six leagues from Balsa Puerto, and the obstacles offered by the trees that were grounded not allowing us to proceed at night, we brought-to a 'playa' (a dry bank of sand), on which we cooked our suppers, and restowed the canoes. The Indians slept on the playa, under small tents made of tucuya, which they suspended to sticks fixed in the sand to keep off musquitoes, and, as we were afterwards told, more formidable wild animals. I cannot answer for the truth, but on our expressing surprise that the Indians should sleep on the playas, to which we were repeatedly told wild beasts came down, and on which we not unfrequently saw traces of recent footsteps, our informers said that if no part of the body, a hand, &c. was exposed from under the canopy, tigres would come down and walk round, without attempting to molest the sleepers ; but if a hand or a foot was to make its appearance, the result would probably be otherwise. Mr. Hinde and myself slept in the canoes, partly as considering them the best berths, and partly lest the Indians should attempt any tricks, which we had been told was not improbable; and to be ready to ^ Chap. VI.] INDIAN CANOEMEN. 137 start early in the morning'. The Indians appeared satisfied with having had sufficient to eat ; and the only disturbance we met with during the night was from a few musquitoes^, which had not yet become seriously troublesome. Between five and six o'clock on the morning of the 16th, we roused the canoemen, and shoved off down the river. About nine we came to a surrar chacra_, belonging to a brother-in-law of the inten- dente of Moyobamba^ and landed to see if we could buy some sugar to use with our cocoa. The mill was at Avork squeezing cane, but it was rudely made, and did not work well^ as the cane had to be passed through several times, and did not then appear to be thoroughly crushed. The rollers were made of a hard heavy wood that grows in the Montana, the bark of which is smooth^ and of a purple colour, and is^ I believe, called ^ palo mulato.' The rollers were placed horizontally, and there being* only two^ each acted as the axis of a tread wheel that was worked by a man walking round inside. The juice of the cane ran into wooden troughs placed underneath, but which were not fixtures. At the time we called, the people of the chacra were employed making cachaça^ a spirit distilled directly from the juice of the cane. We bought a measure of four wine bottles full for a dollar, and paid a real for a jar to hold it. We could not get any sugar^ the governor of Balsa Puerto having taken all away with him when on his late excursion. There were about a dozen Indians round the mill, and we afterwards saw some going in a canoe for cane. 138 KING OF THE VULTURES. [Chap. VI. Approaching a playa^ in the course of the forenoon^ we saw a number of vultures, in the midst of whom was a king of the vultures, feeding on a large fish which they appeared to have caught. The royal ^ bird was distinguished both by his size and colour. I fired, and, I believe, hit him from both the barrels of a double-barrelled g'un, but the shot was too small to produce much effect ; he got to the top of one of the highest trees somewhat discomfited. I fired again with slugs, but could not get him. About noon we stopped to cook, and as our canoe- men's manner of making a meal was rather original, I shall endeavour to describe it. The first point was to look out for a playa sufficiently above the level of the river to be quite dry, and, if possible, one on which drift-wood had been left that might serve for fuel. The playa being found, the canoes were hauled close in, and made fast to stakes about the size of boat-hook staves which were worked into the sand. The Indians then lost no time in jumping out with knives, choppers, &C.5 and ran in different directions to collect dry sticks and wood. After sufficient fuel was obtained, one took upon himself the office of cook, making the fire, whilst others peeled plantains and yucas, washed the meat, and cut it into pieces three or four inches square. In making a fire they vv^ere clever and expeditious. With a flint and steel (which an In- dian, who can obtain it, is never without, and always carries with him generally in a small netted bag slung over his shoulder) a light was struck on tinder Chap. VI.] INDIAN COOKERY. 139 made of bark, and kept in a piece of hollow bamboo, or on the pith of an aloe, also kept in a piece of bam- boo. Sticks were then placed carefully with the ends together, leaving* room for a draught, and logs laid at the sides to support and protect the whole. The small sticks not being dry enough, chips were cut from larger and drier pieces, and in a few minutes they had a blaze. The fire being ready, the provi- sions which had been prepared were put together into a large earthen pot, and boiled, except some plantains that were roasted, the ripest with their skins on, the unripe ones peeled, as a substitute for bread. We found that the Indians invariably pre- ferred dried monkeys to dried wild boar, always taking the former when allowed to choose, and even stealing the last when only one was left. The yuca is a species of mandioca or casaca root, but it is not poisonous. When boiled, particularly with meat, it has much the flavour of a roasted Spanish chesnut. When the pot had boiled, and the mess was suffi- ciently cooked, it was taken off the fire, and the In- dians squatted round it, sitting on their hams, each helping himself, and gorging as long as any thing eatable was left. All being devoured, they started up, ran into the river to about the depth of their knees, and again squatting down, threw the water over their heads and backs with their hands. After which they swallowed copious draughts of chicha, made by taking' a handful of chewed yucas, which their wives and female friends had been employed in preparing 140 SACHYWAKA. [Chap. VI. before we started, and which was kept in earthen jars covered with leaves^ and mixing" it with water in a large calabash by the hand. By the time all was finished^ their bodies appeared pretty nearly ready to burst; and being satisfied, they became noisy. They were^ however, willing_, good tempered creatures, and gave us no trouble. Preparing and devouring a meal usually took these Indians from an hour to an hour and a half. After leaving the playa, we passed two or three small chacras, but they were so much hid by the jungle on the banks, that we could barely see them. During the early part of the day the river had mean- dered much in the same manner as the preceding afternoon, but the reaches were now of greater length, making on the whole about an e. by s. course. The appearance of the river also altered ; the banks became steeper, and there were fewer playas ; still the depth was so inconsiderable, that my canoe ofrounded. Towards the evening we met with more playas, and, between five and six, brought-to on one for the night. On getting out of the canoes, we observed the prints of some animal's feet, which were fresh on the sand. The largest was fully the size of a man's hand. The animal appeared to have three large and one smaller toe on each of its fore feet, and only three on its hinder ones. It had come from the wood, and gone across the river, as there were no return footsteps. The Indians called it the sachywaka; Chap. VI.] MUNICHES. 141 but we afterwards found it was the tapir. There were the prints of two other animals, species of wild boar_, which the Indians called roonsookas, and of some lecheros or deer. Whilst we were cooking, the clouds collected, and looked black, and it thundered at a distance, with lightning. The Indians built themselves a tempo- rary shed, supported by stout sticks fixed in the sand, and covered with palm leaves. After cooking also, they removed the fire from the place where it had been made close to their tambo, and took their pucunas and poisoned arrows out of the canoes. We at the time supposed the two latter to be precaution- ary arrangements, in case of being disturbed by wild beasts. Mr. Hinde and myself slept in the canoes ; the rain kept off, and we were not disturbed. At five in the morning we proceeded, and about eight passed a few ranchos on the right bank of the river_, called Old Muniches. There v/as an open space^ perhaps a quarter of a mile in length, on which some fine looking cattle were feeding. We did not land. Between one and two in the afternoon we reached New Muniches ; or, as it is more generally called, Muniches. We stopped to see the pueblo, and to make some inquiries of the governor, who, in com- mon with the governors of other pueblos below Moyobamba, is officially styled Lieutenant. He was inclined to be civil, but did not possess much infor- mation. He said his district produced maize, yucas, plantains, a little coffee, cascarilla^ and balsam ca- 142 CAHI YACCO. [Chap. VI. pivi. The Indians of the pueblo were at that time collecting cascarilla for the intendente of Moyo- bamba. The pueblo was clean. The ranchos re- sembled those of Balsa Puerto ; and there was a church, but no resident clergyman. We bought two bunches of plantains for a real ; and I got a papagayo of the governor for a dollar. Shortly before sunset we came to the junction of the Cachi Yaco with the Guallaga, and were much gratified to find the latter a very superior river. I sounded close in to the point of the junction^ and had three fathoms water. The summary account of the Cachi Yaco is^ that before reaching Balsa Puerto we waded it three times, the last time where it was deep enough to wet my jacket when walking upright. From Balsa Puerto to its junction with the Guallaga^ the distance^ following the various windings^ is^ I think, about a hundred miles. The current^ at the time we de- scended it^ when the rainy season had commenced, might be, on an average^ four miles an hour ; in some of the bights more, oflf some of the sandy points less. The depth of water is inconsiderable ; throughout we had never more than one fathom, whilst from the numerous banks and trees that have been washed down, and partly buried in the sand, with some of their branches lipping the water, I do not consider it navigable for anything above canoes, or, at the most, moderate-sized boats. Its course after first leaving Balsa Puerto, and on approaching Chap. VI.] GUALLAGA. 143 the Guallaga, meanders almost round the compass ; between these extremes its winding's are less fre- quent_, it runs to the eastward and a little southerly. The trees on the banks are in sreneral not larije. On getting- into the Guallaga we pulled up against the stream to the pueblo of Yurimaguas, situated on the same bank throuofh which the Cachi Yaco enters, and about a mile above the junction. Having reached the pueblo^ we landed, and shewed our passports, with a circular letter from the intendente to the governor, a respectable looking old veteran, who received us very civilly^ gave us shelter in his house from a heavy thunder-storm that was coming on, and offered us a mess made of some wild bird boiled with yucas for supper. He informed us that his district produced maize, plantains, yucas, a little coffee, and bees-w^ax, but no balsams. There were some cattle belonging to the pueblo. He said he had come to the neighbourhood of the Guallaga and Ucayali in the year 1787, since which time he had never left it. He had been a first serjeant in the King of Spain's army ; but when the revolution put an end to the royal authority in Peru, nothing re- mained but for him to submit to the present govern- ment ; and he had been made governor of Yurima- guas. The old man suffered much from an affection of his chest, which almost prevented his speaking. The Indians of the pueblo appeared to treat him with much respect and attention. Whilst we were there, one of them, returning from his chacra, had 144 YURIMAGUAS. [Chap. VI. shot a macaw^ or, as they called it^ a papagayo^ which he brought as a present for the governor to eat. The interior of the house was well stocked with maize_, suspended from the beams of the roof by the leaves being tied together and thrown across^ and with plantains and yucas in baskets. Soon after our arrival, two men^ who spoke Spanish, came in ; one of them had lately arrived down the Guallaga from Tarapota^ with a few things for sale ; and we bought a dollar's worth of chancona^ a coarse kind of sugar^ and some cotton for stuffing birds^ from him. The account he gave of the Guailaga_, above Yurimaguas^ Was unfavourable. He said that almost immediately above the pueblo, abreast of which a long basin was formed by the junction of the Cachi Yaco and of another river, to which they gave the name of Chanosi_, the Guallaga divides into numerous smaller streams,, in which the water is in several parts shallow^ whilst the number of trees that are grounded render the navigation dangerous. He described one place where the rocks nearly meet over the river, in passing which the Indians make a great noise. One of his canoes had been capsized. The other man had been up the Ucayali as far as Sarayacu ; but his account was confused, and^ as far as I could judge^ not to be relied on. He described Sarayacu as the highest settlement of the missions, and the residence of Padre Plaza^ the prefect. He said the Christians did not go up above Sarayacu, but that the wild Indians^ vi^ho had some ^ Chap. VI.3 THE GUALLAGA. 145 pueblos above^ occasionally came down to trade. The breadth of the Ucayali^ as high up as Sarayacu^ was greater than that of the Guallaga, below Yuri- maguas, and there were no banks ; but above Sarayacu the river branched into numerous small streams. We were also told that there were no banks in the Guallaga, below Yurimaguas. As it continued to rain heavily we did not leave the governor's house_, although the musquitoes were so numerous and so troublesome that we could not sleep. A lamp trimmed with oil got from the vaca marina was kept burning during the night. About three o'clock in the morning the weather having cleared^, we returned to the canoes^ and pro- ceeded down the Guallaga. The basin abreast the pueblo was about three-quarters of a mile broad, and three and a half fathoms deep. When directly abreast of the Cachi Yaco_, I sounded, and found there was a bank, or bar, with two fathoms water. The course of the Guallaga in this part was about N.N.E., the reaches being longer, and their bearings less variable than those of the Cachi Yaco. During the day, we passed several islands formed by the river dividing into different channels ; in one part there were two islands with three channels abreast. The water shallowed between the islands ; at one place there was only one fathom; but as the canoemen chose the nearest, which were not always the principal channels^ deeper water might probably have been found. L 146 THE GUALLAGA. [Chap. YI. The general depths of water before the Guallag-a was joined by a river from the westward^ which enters about a league above the creek leading to the pueblo of Santa Cruz, were from three and a half fathoms to four and a half fathoms in some of the deepest parts ; and between the islands, excepting once one fathom in a minor passage,, one and a half to two fathoms. Below the junction of the river from the westward the water deepened to five fathoms, when clear of islands, and three and a half abreast of islands. The breadth of the Guallaga was variable; but when clear of islands, I think it was from a third to half a mile. The rate of the current at the time we came down was about four miles per hour ; but I suppose this varies according to the season, and even to the daily rains. The trees on the banks were not gene- rally large ; we occasionally saw one or two above the rest, and which the Indians said were muenas. Their branches were twisted much like the English oak. Numerous birds, mostly of the parrot species, flew across the river, during the early and latter parts of the day ; but in the heat of the day all was quiet. At sunset we arrived off the entrance of a small creek, which passes through the eastern bank to the pueblo of Santa Cruz. On entering, the canoe- men blew their horn, and we proceeded up. Blow- ing on a horn, or making a noise on some other in- strument, is an old custom amongst the Indians, and signifies a pacific intention. It appeared probable^ •t Chap. VI.] SANTA CRUZ. 147 that in their numerous combats previous to the visits of the missionaries, a strict silence^ so as to surprise an enemy, was their principal manoeuvre, whilst a noise was made to announce an approach, and that no hostility was intended. Had we been hostilely inclined^ we could scarcely have chosen a worse place to go up than the creek we were now in. Its windings almost equalled those of a labyrinth^ and the banks were steep and covered with wood, whilst the breadth _, which at the entrance might have been ten or twelve yards, and the depth a fathom to a fa- thom and a half, decreased^ until_, some trees having fallen across,, and the stumps of others sticking in the channel, it was not easy to get even our small canoes up. After going about a mile we came to a small basin, on the right bank of which, and on a rising ground, stands the pueblo of Santa Cruz. Numbers of dogs gave notice of our arrival, and we landed to seek the governor. We found him sit- ting on the trunk of a tree that had been felled, smoking a cigar, and dressed in a frock and trowsers made of tucuya. He rose to meet us ; and having learnt who we were, very civilly walked with us to his rancho, and offered us a mess of roonsooka for supper. We soon found that this officer's character was that of a complete Nimrod. In answer to our inquiries for information respecting the productions of his district, he said he had no information to give. His district produced nothing ; but when roonsookas, sachy wa- kas, and tigres were mentioned, he entered with rap- L2 148 HUNTING THE TIGRE. [Chap. VI. ture on that part of the subject, and gave us glowing accounts of the Indian manner of huntings modestly premising-, that ^ he knew a little about that/ and concluded by expressing his surprise^ almost regret^ that ^ tigres ' were becoming scarce in his neighbour- hood ; (he had told us of the destruction of ten !) Much of the spirit of the governor's description de- pended on the accompanying manner^ which to him was evidently quite natural, particularly where^ with a spear in his hand_, he described the tigre at bay ; any repetition of mine, therefore^ must fall far short of the original. Nevertheless^ as his account was infinitely superior to any other we received^ I endea- vour to follow it. Early in the mornings the huntsmen^, accompanied by dogs^ go down to the banks of the river; and hav- ing found a track on some of the playas leading from the water, they know that the beast has been drink- ing, and is gone to his den to sleep. The dogs are laid on the scent, followed by the huntsmen through the Montana, until the animal they are in chase of is in sight. Should it be a tigre, the dogs hang back^ and the beast turns to defend himself, places himself on his haunches ready to spring, and, in the governor's language, ^ roars till the woods tremble/ He is at bay ; it is then that the boldest of the party must face him. The huntsman, armed with a short spear, advances directly to the tigre's front. Each are aware of their danger, and each watches for a favourable opportunity. Was the huntsman to rush ^ Chap. VI.] HUNTING THE TIGRE. 149 in, and make too strong* a thrust_, the smoothness of the tigre's fur_, and the toughness of his skin_, would turn aside the spear^ the man lose his balance^ and in all probability pay the forfeit of his life for his folly. To prevent or avoid this,, the blunt end of the spear is held in the right hand ; the left foot a little advanced, and the spear pushed through the hollow of the left hand with a smart, but not too heavy a blow, so as to recover it instantly, or, if the weapon enters, to push it home, if possible, to the tigre's heart. I do not suppose that all the animals killed in this manner are equal to Bengal tigers ; but there are some animals in this part of South America coming under the general denomination of ' tigre,' which are very formidable, at least quite sufficiently so for most men not to feel ambitious of standing before one at bay, armed only with a short spear. After supper the governor showed us his various sporting implements, as well as weapons for attack and defence. They consisted of two spears for land animals ; harpoons and bows and arrows (the heads of the latter separate from the shafts, with lines se- cured to them) for fish ; and a pucuna, several feet longer than any other we had seen, the mouth-piece ornamented with tiger's teeth instead of boar's tusks. His dogs were common curs, something resembling* the pyars of India. The flesh of the roonsooka, which had been given us for supper, and which was part of the governor's 150 SANTA CRUZ. [Chap. VI. previous day's game, somewhat resembled pork : it was not particularly good, and we were afterwards told is not considered wholesome. Although this animal comes_, I believe,, under the general denomi- nation of wild boar, of which there are num.erous varieties on the Maranon^ it has three jointed toes^ in- stead of two horned hoofs^ on each foot^ and, like the tapir^ it goes much into the water. I here got the skin of a tapir from a man who wanted beads, or some other European manufacture for it ; but as these were stowed away in the canoes^ he was obliged to take money. I also bought the skin of a large red marmot from the governor, and some beans, of which he did not know the name^ but which he said were considered a remedy for the flux. The oil is got by cutting the beans into pieces^ boiling them and taking the scum. A torch made of copal^, tied up in a plantain stalk_, was burning as a light. The copal is got near the pueblo. We learnt also that some white bees- wax is founds and is there worth six reals a pound. Yucas and plantains were considered as matters of course^ being the principal support of the inhabitants. The governor also informed us, that there is a small stream entering the Guallaga about two leagues above Santa Cruz, which communicates with the Ucayali^ but is not navigable even for canoes. The pueblo of Santa Cruz was built about four- teen years previous to our arrival. It contained about twenty ranchoS; built in a similar manner to those of Chap. VI.] SANTA CRUZ. 151 Balsa Puerto. The present governor had ruled since the foundation of the pueblo, and perhaps managed better than a more polished magistrate, as his prowess in hunting probably tends to maintain his authority. That he entered into the party feelings of his pueblo was evident^ for when on our landing we had inquired of him, whether it would be safe to leave the canoes with the In- dians^ without any one to look out on them^ he asked where they were from ; and being told from Balsa Puerto^ he said, '' Yes_, they would be safe ; the Balsa Puerto Indians were honest men, but all the Laguna people were thieves." We afterwards found there was a feud between the Indians of Santa Cruz and those of Laguna ; and when the Laguna Indians were with us, the governor's charge was not proved. We slept in the canoes_, and^ as the day broke, again started. During the forenoon the river mean- dered from the westward of north to s.e. ; but made upon the whole about a n.e. course. The depth of water in the open channel was_, in general, five and six fathoms ; between the islands three and a half fathoms ; whilst in some places I could not get bot- tom, the small size of the canoe not allowing me to heave with more than ten fathoms line, as the lead then brought her broadside to the current. The deepest water was always in the strength of the current^ and shoaled quickly on leaving it. We passed two or three chacras in the course of 152 LAGUNA. [Chap. VI. the afternoon ; but with these exceptions the country appeared to be uncultivated and unoccupied. We here began to be annoyed by an insect about the size of a small ant, but resembling in appearance the common summer fly of England. The natives call it pium. It is most troublesome during the day^ relieving guard with the musquito, which prefers the night. Whilst biting, it does not smart like the musquito, but fills itself with blood, and leaves the pore running, after which a small black mark_, about the size of a small pin's head_, continues for days,, and even weeks^ and the part bitten swells. These insects are so innumerable and persevering, that we found it im- possible to keep clear of them ; and in one part of the passage^ our hands were so much swelled^ that the knuckles were not discernible. As the sun was setting we got near Laguna, and saw a number of very small canoes with one man in each, fishing. A creek, not so winding but narrower than that of Santa Cruz, led up towards Laguna, passing through a swamp covered with rushes, and inhabited by musquitoes of an extraordinary size. This swamp is, at some seasons, covered with water, and has probably given the name of Laguna to the pueblo built near it. At the time we went up, after the Indians had hauled the canoes for some distance through the mud, they stuck fast, and the baggage was obliged to be carried out. When we arrived, the governor was attending service in the church. On coming out, and learning Chap. VI.] LAGUNA. 153 who we were^ he gave us quarters in a large but dilapidated house, and got some bamboo bed places made for us. Much curiosity was excited by our arrival ; and by the time the baggage had been deposited,, the apartment was crowded ; those per- sons who held any official situation coming as the governor's attendants, whilst others pushed in to see the strangers, under the plea of rendering assistance. Until the passage was completed, that is to say, until we had reached Laguna, and got our baggage and ourselves under shelter, our minds were too fully occupied to feel fatigue ; but no sooner was all accomplished, and the passports and circular letter given to the governor to read or spell, than the most excessive fatigue came on, the limbs feeling unable to support the weight of the body. We soon rid ourselves of the visiters, telling them plainly they must go, for we were too weary to hold any further communication with them that night. By the time we were up in the morning, our quar- ters were surrounded by hundreds of Indians, who had come in from the woods to attend an annual fes- tival, and whose curiosity was such, that they pushed their heads through between the rough wooden bars that served in lieu of windows, thereby placing us almost in darkness. The appearance of these people was quite that of savages ; they were partly dressed in tucuya, and variously stained with red and purple dyes ; their figures were tall and stout, with long- black hair. Our visit evidently formed a raree-show 154 LAGUNA. [Chap. VI. for their festival, and they expressed their surprise and amusement to each other in loud laughs^ and discordant sorts of sounds ; but as this kind of inspec- tion was not altogether agreeable to us, we made signs for them to go away. These they would not at first understand, showing by their manner that our appearance or actions did not impress them with ideas of restraint, although they apparently did not intend to be offensive. Our signs were repeated more strenuously, accompanied by indications that intrusion would not be allowed. Some of those who were nearest the windows then withdrew, but their places were quickly filled up by others, and we were at last obliged to apply to the governor for an Indian alcalde with his rod of office to stand sentry and keep them off. If we went outside the house, those who were passing stopped and collected in groupes, to gratify their curiosity, until, beginning to understand us, they attended to our signs, and ceased to be trouble- some. During the forenoon, mass was performed in the church, when all the Indians attended with every mark of propriety. After the service was over, we called on the governor and the padre ; to the latter of whom I showed the letter I had received from the head of his church in Lima. He appeared surprised, but expressed great satisfaction at its having been written, and requested I would allow him to take a copy, to which I did not object. As I made a point of endeavouring to collect spe- Chap. VI.] INDIANS. 155 cimens in all parts of our route, the governor, at my request,, sent two alcaldes round with us to the diffe- rent ranchos in which the Indians were collected. Throughout the passage it was in most places diffi- cult to obtain specimens ; and all that could be got here were some parrots, which we did not consider worth taking, except a papagayo which I bought of the governor. The daily festivities had commenced, and chicha already produced an effect. At one large rancho we went to^ were noises intended for music, but without much harmony ; had there been any, it would have been overwhelmed by the discordant vociferations of the party. They had probably been dancing ; but on our entering, all attention was turned towards us^ and we were obhged to keep too good a look-out on the persons and objects immedi- ately near us, to take much notice of those that were more remote and minute. In the middle of the floor were some large earthen jars containing chewed yuca- chicha, of which they immediately offered us potations; one old woman, in particular, with a large bowl in her hand_, would scarcely be denied. Indeed, I am not quite sure whether Mr. Hinde, who was throughout a favourite with the fair sex^ did not carry his gallantry so far as to pledge the old lady. However, it was quite evident that if we did not intend to drink, we had better not stay, and we returned to our quarters. Soon afterwards the governor came in, when I re- ceived from him the following information relative to his district : — 156 PRODUCTIONS. [Chap. VI. The district of Laguna produces maize^ yucas^ plantains^ sarsaparilla;, and white bees'-wax ; the latter varying in its value from seven to four reals the pound, according to its whiteness. There was no cattle belonging to the pueblo, and only two boar pigs. Muscovy ducks,, which are naturally wild in this part of the country, were worth from a dollar to four reals each ; fowls one to two reals. Fish, tar- taruga and vaca marina are got from the river ; the fat of the vaca marina is converted into oil, and the flesh dried as provision ; the season for catching it was just commencing. Fish are only plentiful during the floods, when large ones called gavitanas are caught, and salted to send to Moyobamba. Tarta- ruga are caught in December, when they come to the playas to lay their eggs : there are two kinds of tar- turuga, one smaller than the other, and the small ones are the best ; the manner of catching them is by going to the playas by moonlight, and turning them on their backs. The Indians of Laguna live principally on fish, plantains, and yucas ; they also drink large quanti- ties of chicha, of which they make four kinds, from maize, yucas, plantains, and chuntas, a large, red, fleshy palm-nut. The yuca-chicha is the best, and is made by boiling the yuca, chewing part, crushing the remainder, and again boiling it : when wanted for use, it is mixed with water by the hand. Maize chicha is made by crushing and boihng the grain, after which a moderate quantity of chewed cumal, a Chap. VI.J CHICHA. 157 root resembling- yuca^ or potatoe^ and having a red skin, is added^ and the whole boiled again. It will not keep longer than a week. Plantains are taken when very ripe^ peeled, bruised, and boiled ; after which they are strained through sieves made of rushes, and again boiled. Chuntas are boiled, and the stones taken out, crushed, mixed with water, boiled and strained. This chicha is considered better than the plantain, but not equal to that made from maize or yucas. The traffic of Lao[-una consists in sending" bees'- wax, salt fish, and tartaruga, to Moyobamba, receiving tucuya in return ; and sarsaparilla, and oil of the vaca marina to Tabitinga, whence they get knives, fish- hooks, hatchets, hoes, and beads. Persons who go down to Tabitinga get also a few English cottons and crockery ware for their own use, but not to sell again. The governor had on a large checked light blue cotton shirt, and a pair of yellow English nankeen trousers, for which he had paid four reals a yard at Tabitinga. The padre coming to return our call, I availed my- self of the opportunity to request he would give us any inform.ation he might possess. In answer to my in- quiries whether the Indians were a drunken race, he said, that during the festivals when they all met, they sometimes drank chicha to an excess, and got intoxi- cated, but otherwise they were not generally drunken. He described them as uncivilised, but easily managed. The Indians of Laouna consisted of four different > 158 THE PADRE'S ACCOUNT. [Chap. VI. tribes. Those we had seen at Santa Cruz once lived at Laguna, being- brought there from a place called | Chamicuras, about six hours' journey on foot into the interior ; but they and the other tribes did not agree, the first settlers calling the Chamicurians intruders ; and whenever chicha had produced an effect^ they fought^ and the Santa Cruz people being the fewest^ applied for and obtained permission to build their present pueblo. In giving an account of the productions of the coun- try, which I do not repeat as being similar to that pre- viously given by the governor^ the padre said that the Indians destroyed the sarsaparilla. I requested to know how, and why they did so. He explained that it might proceed in some measure from natural idleness^ but principally from the manner in which the Indians had of late been treated by the governors of some of the pueblos. The governors obliged them to go out and get sarsaparilla_, bees' -wax^ &c._, whilst they did not pay them a just price for what they collected. The consequence was,, that^ in gathering, they pulled the whole of the roots up^ without taking any trouble to replant slips^ so as to ensure a future crop ; on the contrary, they would rather destroy it in order that they might not be compelled to gather it. In the time of the Jesuits, whenever a root of sarsaparilla was taken up, a sprig was replanted in the same place. I asked if the padre thought the Indians had fallen off generally since the time of the Jesuits. He said he thought they had ; that the Jesuits had taken Chap. VI.] THE PADRE'S ACCOUNT. 159 much care in teaching the Indians to sow maize and other vegetables^ and to collect the natural gums and balsams of the country, for which they always saw that a just price was given. Since the revolution in particular, many of the clergymen had left the diocese^ and the supreme government of the state being occupied with more immediate affairs, the pro- vince of Maynas had been in a great measure over- looked. The effect produced was, that the Indians^ finding there were not curates to attend to them^ and that some of the governors were inclined to be op- pressive, had begun to leave the pueblos. Laguna had at one time possessed a population of fifteen hundred people. The greater part had now made chacras in different parts of the Montana, where they cultivated plantains and yucas^ and raised poultry _, without coming near the pueblo_, except when a padre came to celebrate the festivals of their saint. Some of the Panos tribe had even gone down to the Uca- yali^ whence they returned to the Laguna district_, and made chacras in different parts of the Montana : these people never came near the pueblo_, either at festivals^ or any other time, and he supposed had renounced Christianity. The padre concluded this part of his account, by declaring his opinion_, that^ if the government did not speedily adopt some mea- sures respecting the treatment of the Indians,, and send more clergymen to instruct them, and perform the church services, they would desert the pueblos and again turn infidels. 160 THE PADRE'S ACCOUNT. [Chap. VI. I asked the padre what he thought of the infidel^ and particularly the cannibal tribes — whether they ate human flesh as a sort of savage satisfaction,, or whether it was from a want of other provision. He said he believed that if they had a sufficient supply of other provisions^ they would not eat human flesh. During the latter part of the Spanish authority, the government had distributed hatchets^ beads, and tish-hooks amongst these people^ and they had be- haved well. in answer to other questions the padre said, Laguna and Santa Cruz are built up the creeks that lead to them_, because the ground is higher, and clearer of damp and insects, than the bank of the river. Santa Cruz possesses from thirty to forty married couples. Laguna has still several hundred inhabitants, who, as we saw, collect at the festivals when it is known a padre is coming. At other times the puebio is in a great measure deserted ; only the governor and a few families remain, and the streets and plaza are overgrown with grass. The district to which he had to attend^ as padre, extended from Balsa Puerto to Laguna, a distance of two hundred miles, and requiring nine days to go from Laguna to Balsa Puerto. There was only one padre between him and the frontier, who was an elderly man. He added that, since the revolution, the few remaining clergy amongst the missions of Maynas had not re- ceived any regular salary, which, previous to the revolution, had been paid by the government. He Chap. VI.] LAGUNA. 161 again expressed great satisfaction at having seen the letter I had received, and said that on his return to Yurimaguas, which was his principal residence^ he would write a full account_, and despatch a próprio with it to Moyobamba, and that he trusted a beneficial effect would be produced. The pueblo of Laguna has several streets, which have been laid out at right angles^ but are irregularly built. Some of the houses^ which at the time we saw them were in a state of decay^ had been superior to ranchos. The ranchos resemble those of Balsa Puerto. There is a plaza, on one side of which are the church and a house for the curate. In the afternoon we walked down to the creek with the governor, to see the canoes in which we were to proceed. One of them was so narrow, that the Indians themselves said the least swell or wind would capsize her; and as we had been given to understand we should probably meet with both on the MaraiioU;, we requested to have another in lieu^ which after a little trouble was obtained. The next point was to pay the Indians who were to accompany us_, and get a supply of provisions. The governor obtained the privilege of supplying us, although^ as we afterwards found, he charged a real more than the market price for each salt fish. Scrap- ing together a few reals appeared to be an object of much greater importance in the consideration of the governor of Laguna, than either the dignity or au- thority of his station. The Indians evidently did not M 162' PAYMENT OF INDIANS. [Cliap. VI. regard him with respect^ and most of them having" deserted the pueblo, they took httle pains to assume any. The canoemen were paid with knives^ fish- hooks^ &c.^ and we distributed some needles,, beads^, ribbons^ (&c. amongst the women. Since arriving in England^ I have been asked in what particular manner^ and at what rate^ the Indians were here paid^ a question which it is not in my power to answer with exactness^ inasmuch as the paying department rested on Mr. Hinde^ who was good enough to undertake it ; my time being principally occupied in seeking for^ and noting down, informa- tion relative to the country. I believe, however, that each of the canoemen received a large knife about eighteen inches long, and of superior quality to those previously brought to Laguna, with some fish-hooks, large needles, or scissors, the compara- tive value of which was fixed by the intendente at Moyobamba ; but I do not know either what they cost me in Lima, or at what rate they were paid to the Indians, as they were in the first instance pur- chased by a mercantile gentleman, and in the latter paid by Mr. Hinde. In fact, their value among the Indians depended much upon fancy, or whether they were really wanted. In some places white beads were in request; in others yellow; and in others^ some other colour. At Omaguas I got a Curassow bird for a string of large various-coloured beads, which the woman who owned the bird took a fancy to, although she had previously refused every thing Chap. VI.] INDIAN BARTER. 163 V else. At Tabitinga T got a jar of poison, one of the most valuable and difficult things to obtain_, for a large knife which the man wanted, and which I would not give for any thing else^ as we might want it our- selves, being the last of the kind we had left. We got some large earthen jars at Laguna, which were varnished;, and rudely painted ; but they were not strong, not having been sufficiently baked. On Monday we were detained by the Indians not being ready; the effects of the chicha they had already drunk had not altogether evaporated^ and they loitered to take a parting bowl with their friends. Whilst waiting for them_, we went again to call on the padre, who w as also preparing for his departure. Some bar-iron^ and a few other articles of traffic, were lying on the floor of his apartment ready to be embarked, the voluntary contributions of the Indians, who cannot give much ; and such trifling commerce as they may be able to carry on, being the only means which the Maynas clergy at present have of supporting themselves_, their attention is thus divided between the religious duties of their extensive dis- tricts, and the occupations necessary to obtain a live- lihood. Whilst we were with the padre, some Indians came to ask his blessing previous to their leaving the pueblo. We therefore availed ourselves of the op- portunity to request^, that in giving his benediction to our canoeilien, he would add an injunction for them to behave well whilst with us, and also to explain, M 2 164 LAGUNA CANOEMEN. [Chap. VI. that they would be supplied with provisions^ and that we should endeavour to treat them with justice ; only requiring that they would work, and not occa- sion trouble, as we had not had any with the Balsa Puerto men. Whether it was the padre's injunction that induced them to pay more attention^ or their natural character^ the manner in which the Laguna canoemen became acquainted with our habits was surprising. Savages as they were, in the course of a few days they were as well acquainted with us as if we had been together all our lives; and had it been possible for us to have taken them, and their canoes the whole way down the Maranon^, we might have made the passage in about half the time, and with comparative ease. One of Mr. Hinde's crew was blind^ but he was an excellent boatman,, cheerful^ and seldom at a loss. My cox- swain had much the cut and manner of an old quar- ter-master; and indeed, on the whole, there are few European boats'-crews who would have been superior to our Laguna canoemen. 165 CIIArTER VII.* Leave Laguna — Boys fishing — Bring-to to refit the Apahnacayas — Beans and seeds found hi the iMontaua — Squall — Junction of the Guallaga with the Mariiuon — Drink the health of his Royal Highness the Lord High Admiral — Opinion respecting that part of the Guallaga wc descended Bring-to for the night — Ourarinas — Night bird — Shooting in the IMontaua — Sagacity of the Indians — Birds and Animals — Sungarros — MisunderstancUng with the Indians — San Regis, old padre — Indian mode of digging a grave — Health and longevity of the natives — Breeze up the Maranon — Junction of the Ucayali — Omaguas — People mostly fishermen — Extraordinary basin — Iquitos — Junction of the Napo — Oran 'libre comercio' — Pebas — Find go- vernor of Iquitos — Disturbances at Iquitos after our departiure — Governor of Pebas — His manner of treating the Indians — Yaguas — Palo de Cruz Want of clergy — Herd of Roonsookas on bank below Pebas — Men on playa — Cocliichenas — Alhgator — New Indian Pueblo — Women chewing yucas for making chicha— Squall, precautions and exertions of canoemen — Loretto Canoeman taken ill — Musquitoes — Putumayo — Tabitinga, the frontier post of Brazil. It was near noon on the 21st of January^ before we could get the baggage down to the port. The canoes we were to proceed in were larger than those we had brought from Balsa Puerto ; but on getting into them we found the apalmacayas were so badly made, that it was evident they must be refitted. Still it was better to get the canoemen away from objects that engrossed their attention, and afterwards * Tliis chapter contains the bearings and soundings of the Marauou from the junction of the Guallaga to the Brazilian frontier. 166 THE GUALLAGA. [Chap. VII. bring-to at some favourable part of the bank of the river. The women accompanied their husbands down to the canoes, bringing- jars of chewed yucas^ to make chicha^, as a supply for the passage, also some large pieces of rock salt_, with which the canoemen were to purchase provisions on their way back. At partings we gave each of these women a string of small beads, and at length got the Indians to shove off. The water in the creek was deepened by rain that had fallen since we entered^ and we had no difficulty in getting out. About two-thirds of the way down we found some boys in light canoes fishing. They had got bunches of juicy roots_, which they bruised and threw into the water, by which the fish became stupified and floated to the surface, swimming, or rather struggling on their sides ; they were then struck with small darts^ which the boys threw with much precision. The canoemen struck some with their paddles_, and caught others in their straw hats ; but to save time, we bought a supply from the boys for fish hooks. The fish were about eight or nine inches long, somewhat resembling English smelts in appearance^ and had a barb or feeler turned back- wards from each side of the head, as long as the fish. Soon after getting into the Guallaga we brought- to to refit the apalmacayas ; and palm leaves being wanted,, I accompanied the Indians who went into the woods to get some^ and by accident found that Chap. VIIO THE JVIARANON. l67 the beans I had bought from the governor of Santa Cruz were produced in a shell or husk_, about the size and shape of a large orange, and the colour and consistency of a gourd. The tree they grew upon was high, but small in the stem^ with branches only at the top ; it somewhat resembled an English cherry-tree, with the exception that it was about twice the height. Each shell had three or four divisions^ and contained about a dozen beans. I also found another tree, of about the same size from the stem, and out of the branches of which grew a fruit that the Indians eat. The fruit was the size and shape of a short thick cucumber_, having a large hard seed,, with a tough yellow substance outside that had much the flavour of an old cocoa- nut. The seed of this fruit was one of those not known by the people of whom we made inquiries at Balsa Puerto. When the apalmacayas were finished^ and we were about to proceed, a heavy squall from the eastward, with rain, came on, and we had reason to congratulate ourselves on the trouble we had taken. The Indians shoved off, and succeeded in getting ahead, although the wind made the canoes heel considerably, and there was a ripple that more than once came over the gunwales. At sunset we came to the junction of the Guallaga with the Maranon ; and supposing myself to be the first British officer that had ever embarked on the trunk of this the largest river of the world, we drank the health of His Royal Highness, the Lord High 168 JUNCTION OF THE [Chap. VII, Admiral^ aiid^ joined by the Indians^ gave three cheers. The junction of the Guallaga with the Maranoii has been lavishly described by the missionaries. I can only say it did not produce those impressions on my mind which their description had led me to expect. The basin formed might be about a mile across ; but there was a dry bank of sand towards the middle,, with a bar at the entrance of the Gual- laga^ on which I sounded in only one fathom and a half : perhaps we were not in the deepest water. In stating my opinion of that part of the Guallaga we descended^ I conceive that, although clear of grounded trees which we had experienced on the Cachiyaco, (and it is probable that deeper channels than some we passed through might be found, if sought,) the Guallaga is only fit for the navigation of vessels drawing about five^ or^ at the most, six feet of water. Should a communication ever be at- tempted to be formed by the Guallaga, Yurimaguas appears to be the best point to fix upon, not only as^ according to what we heard, it is the furthest vessels of burthen could proceed, but as it possesses an apparently clear basin, with three and a half fa- thoms water, and forms a centre by which a commu- nication might be continued in canoes up different small rivers into the interior. More squalls coming on, about eight o'clock we brought-to the right bank for the night. At day-break on the 22d, we proceeded ; and Chap. VII.] GUALLAGA AND MARANON. 169 during the forenoon passed principally amongst islands formed by the river^ when I got the following sound- ings, and made such occasional remarks as appeared to be applicable. The bearings were taken with a small mining compass which I held in my hand. I made rough guesses at the length of the reaches and breadth of the river ; and in sounding, as from the rate of the current I had to make the Indians stop paddling^ which they w^ere not always willing to do, I generally took three casts at each time of heaving. As the soundings^ and those remarks that immediately concern the river, interfere with the more general part of the journal^, I keep them,, as I at the time made them^ distinct, giving the sound- ings^ &c. first. Bearing. N.E. North N.NE. North N.N.W. N.N.E. East. Length. Miles. lè H Breadth. Miles. i 4 3 Depth. Fathoms. •i to ^ •2 •■" i 1 1 1 1 ^ 2 2i 6 6 4 7i 7i 'a 10 REMARKS. The passage we are in is between two islands, with sandy points at both endsj apparently not the principal channel. Between an island and bank of the river ; not the principal passage, A low sandy island. The main channel. Several islands. il7U c - . PURARNIAS. [Chap.yil ^m Bearing; Length. Mi es. Breadth. Miles. Depth. Fathoms. REMARKS. • 4 4 Apparently the principal channel ; but we are over on the larboard side, and out of the stream. \ N.N.E. n * 4 4 4 Between two islands, not the principal passage, abreast a sandy point at the south end, 4 fathoms. Out of the stream, near the larboard side, 1^ fathom. At the north end, 3 fathoms. 3 3 3 <» T, 1 North. 2 varying ètof 7è 7 7» Amongst larger islands; a principal chan- nel. i 9 N.N.E. 2 ■ 3i 2i A low muddy island without trees, pro- bably covered by water at times. We are near the starboard side, and out of the stream. N.E. 3 fto 1 mile. 8 8 8 Main channel, towards the larboard side, and in the stream. 4 4 4 Near the larboard side, and out of the stream. ■ N.bE. East. S.E. 1 yards 100 1 1 H A narrow passage leading to the pueblo of Ourarinas. The pi leblo of Ourarin. IS, situa ted on a high part of the left bank of the river. We reached Ourarinas about one in the afternoon. The governor was not present, but his father informed us that the district produced balsam capivi, sarsapa- rilla^ white bees-wax, a little tobacco^ yucas^ plan- Chap. VII.] OURARINAS. 171 tains^ and maize ; and that the inhabitants caught sufficient fish to live upon. There were neither cattle nor pigs belonging to the pueblo,, but a few poultry. The wild animals common in the neigh- bourhood of the other pueblos we had passed^ were also found at Ourarinas. An occasional traffic is carried on by sending bal- sam capivi to Moyobamba^ for which tucuya is re- ceived in return; and sarsaparilla to Tabitinga^ whence knives, iron^ a few cotton goods, and crockery ware are got. Iron is worth four reals a pound, and plates four reals each. ^^ The old man was far from speaking favourably of the intendente of Moyobamba ; amongst other things^ he said the intendente gave the Indians only one dollar the aroba for sarsaparilla, and which was paid in knives^ &c. Balsam capivi was one dollar the flask of four pounds four ounces, Spanish ; white bees-wax four reals the pound. The pueblo contained about twenty small ranchos ; and there were the remains of an old sugar-mill that had once been worked. We got some plantains as provision, some seed necklaces, and two skins, one of a dark brown squirrel, with tan-coloured legs, and which the natives called wywach ; the other of a red coati, paying for the whole with beads and fish-hooks. After leaving Ourarinas, and getting out of the narrow channel, on the bank of which it stands, the river became clearer of islands; and, the Indians paddling across to the south bank, I had an oppor- 172 SOUNDINGS OF [Chap. VII. tunity of trying the difference of the soundings on leaving the stream. They were from six fathoms in the stream near the left bank_, 6, 5^, 5^ 4, S^, S, keeping three fathoms within a moderate ship's length of the right bank. Bearing. Length. Miles. Breadth. Miles. Depth. Fathoms. REMARKS. Yards. S.S.E. * 100 H Continuation of narrow passage. E.bS. 6è 1 mile 6 Main channel ; dry bank in midships ; 6 6 near the left bank 6 fathoms ; soundings across the river ; below the dry bank 6, 5i 5; 4, 3i, 3 fathoms. E.N.E. 3 1 5 6 6 6 The main channel clear of islands. N.E. 3 4 3^ 4 6 6 6 N.bE. 2 1 •2 7 7 Squally ; brought-to a high sand playa for the night. N.E. 3 7 S.E. 3 itof 10 23d. A large island, with several smaller 10 ones ; we are near the right bank, and 10 in the stream. E.N.E. 3è s 4 10^ Continuing near the right bank, and in the ,-^4 10 10 10^ strength of the current. A sandy bank on the left side. N.N.E. ^ varying tof 5 6 5* In mid channel, but not in the stream. Islands. Near the right bank, not in the stream. H Chap. VII.] THE MARANON. 173 Bearing. E.N.E. E.bS. E.S.E. N.E. Length. Miles. W.bS. N.E. N.E.bE. E.N.E. N.N.E. North. N.E. North. 2* U a ba Uac Breadth. Miles. itoi I a Í sin ross n 3 1 2i 1 2 li 4: 4 Depth. Fathoms. ètof Yards. 200 itof 5^ 5^ 91. 2Í 4è u li 12 12 8 8^ 8 13 13 8 7 7 1* 1 1 1 6 7 6 5 G 6 8^ 8* 8i REMARKS. A principal channel, low sandy point at the west end, with 5^ fathoms abreast. Between a low sandy island and bank of the river off the island, out of the stream 2^ fatlioms, in the stream 4^ fathoms. Main channel, former passage joining ano- ther after passing the low sandy island. A basin about a mile and a half across, with a low sandy island in the middle, and the stream sweeping round it to the eastward. We passed to the westward of the island, and had only 1-1 fathom water ; but on passing the island, and getting into the stream, I sounded in 12 fathoms. Main channel. Short; narrow turn of the river. Main channel ; deepest in the narrowest part. Several islands ; tliree channels abreast that we enter ; the smallest in the stream on starboard side 2^ fathoms. Continuation dry bank on starboard side. A principal channel. Main channel; small, low sandy islands. In mid channel, but not in the stream, 5 to 6 fathoms -, near the right bank, and in the stream, 8^ fathoms j trees at the bottom catch the lead. 174 SOUNDINGS OF [Chap. VII. Length. Breadth. Depth. Bearing. Miles. Miles. Fathoms. REMARKS. N.N.E.l H Small channel formed by an island, with a N.E. > H i Ji low sandy point : close over on starboard N.E.bN.J li side, abreast the point, and out of the 1. * 2* 2i stream, IJ fathoms. S.E.bS. H ^to •^2 2è • N.E. H 3 4 6 Main channel, clear of islands. E.S.E. 1* « |_ 6 / East. 1 § 6 N.N.E. 2 è 11 8 8 A squall from the eastward, with rain and lightning ; afterwards clear weather, but too dark to distinguish the points of the compass. We passed three reaches which I supposed to be about 4, 5, and S.E. 4 3 miles long, and to bear S.E., E.N.E., E.N.E. 5 and E.S.E. About eleven o'clock we E.N.E. 3 brought-to for the night. 24th. Proceeded at daylight. S.E. 2 ètoi 3 Not the principal channel; drifting off from the bank at which we had brought- to. The water gradually deepened to 3 fathoms, and we were not then in the stream. E.bN. 2è ètof 13 12 Main channel. We are about an equal distance from both banks. The bottom 12^ 12 feels uneven, as if in ridges; the lead jumps. S.E. 2 * 3 3 3 In midchannel, but out of the stream, 3 fathoms. O.O.E. 3 f 10 10 Main channel, clear of islands. E.S.E. 6 3 5 5è Islands. East. 4 * 6 6 E.N.E. 6 |to 5 Miin channel. No islands. We are 1 mile 5 5 rearest to the starboard bank. Chap. VIL] THE MARANON. 175 Bearing. Length. MUes. Breadth. Miles. Depth. Fathoms. REMARKS. N.E. ^ 3 4 5* . 5 Island in bight. * N.N.W. 2^ f to 1 mile ■ 8è 84 8è The length of this reach was about five miles ; at first clear of islands, but when about half way down, we turned into a narrow channel, between the ri^ht bauk and an island to save distance. N.E. h Yards. 200 1 1 r N.bW. h 1 Several trees grounded on both sides. N.E. 1 N.N.E.i 1 3 3 3 North. 1 N.W.bNJ li N.bW. è N.E. 2è |to 1 mile 9 9 9 island passage rejoins main channel at the S.VV. end of a reach, down which we pro- ceed N.E., keeping the right bank, and being in the stream. East. 4 i OS •J? 8 8è A principal channel amongst islands. S.E. 4 1 to 1 mile Principal channel. A low sandy island with reeds. We are in mid channel. N.E. If H 2 2 1 1 1 Paddles strike. 3 3 3 9 11 11 A basin a mile and three-quarters long, by a mile and a quarter broad ; the left bank low and sandy. Out of the stream, 2 fathoms ; afterwards only 1 fathom, and several trees grounded. The canoemen strike the bottom with their paddles. Approaching the stream, 3 fa- thoms ; in the stream, 11 fathoms. I think it probable that in the dry season the part we have passed over forms a playa. S.S.E. 3 1 6 6 6 Main channel. 176 SOUNDINGS OF THE MARANON. [Chap. VII. Bearing. Length. Miles. Breadth. Miles. Depth. Fathoms. REMARKS. S.E. N.E.bE. N.E. 8 1 Yards. 200 2 2 H Small passage between an island and bank of the river; in mid channel, 2 fathoms ; several trees grounded at the sides. E.S.E. 3 ètof Principal channel. E.N.E. 4 1 10 10 E.bN. 2 i 6 6 6 E.S.E. 4 f East, E.S.E. Yards. 60 to 150 2 2 o A small passage leading to the pueblo of San Regis. A narrow river joining from the northward. Th B pueblo of San Regis situated on a high part of the left bank. 1 In the evening'^ after leaving Ourarinas, squalls coming' on about nine o'clock^ we brought-to for the night. Hitherto we felt disappointed in not finding the magnificence we had anticipated. The trees on the banks appeared to us in general not large ; and we at this time fancied that^ although the canoemen pulled stronger and faster than the Balsa Puerto Indians^ whilst they were pulling they were neither so intelUgent nor so persevering. But the vast magnitude of the Andes^ the impressions of which were still fresh upon our minds, might have misled us in judging of dimensions ; and my heaving the lead had detained the canoemen. The place we brought-to was a steep sand on the right bank, at that time several feet above the level of the river; but which^ from its appearance, is occa- Chap. VII.] BÍRDS. ] 77 sionally under water during the Iieiglit of the rainy season. There were the remains of some temporary sheds that had been made by canoe men passing up or down ; we got a fire lighted and boiled some cocoa. Whilst waiting for the cocoa, we heard several birds amongst the bushes, which, from their noise^ Mr. Hinde pronounced to be game, and was strongly inclined to go after them ; but as it was scarcely probable he would be successful in taking any in the dark^ and not improbable that he might meet with other game less desirable to encounter_, I advised him strongly not to go. Before daylight we were again under weigh. In the afternoon we stopped to dine ; and^ during meals being now my only vacations from heaving the lead, taking bearings^ and making remarks, whilst the fire was lighting and the provisions cook- ing I went with one of the Indians into the woods to shoot. The first thing I knocked down was a dove^ and shortly afterwards a large black bird_, with a curled crest of briUiant plumage, and the size of a turkey. It was shot through the head^ and when the Indian saw it fall he was delighted^ but would scarcely believe it was down until he had rushed forward and seized it^ when he expressed his joy by a loud savage laugh. It was a species of what is called peury in Peru, moutun in Brazil, and curasow in England ; and was distinguished from all others we saw^^ by having one red glo- bular fleshy substance above its beak^ and two N 178 BIRDS. [Chap. VII. similar ones underneath. I hit a second ; but not seeing its head on account of the trees^ it did not fall so immediately as the first. The Indian again rushed forward^ imagining it had dropped like the other. I supposed he had got it^ and also moving forward^ it was lost. We then came amongst a flock of what appeared to be pheasants, being much the same shape^ about the colour of a pheasant hen, and also having crests. They were sitting on trees in pairs, and I knocked down two : there was a bog between us and them, and I wanted the Indian to go in and fetch them ; but he shook his head and would not go. Pheasants were^ however, not to be left on an expedition down the Marafion ; I waded in up to my arms and got them. They proved to be carrion birds, at least so rank that they were not eatable, their food being bog grass. There is a specimen of these birds stuffed in the Museum of the Zoological Society. By this time it was necessary we should return, and we had gone so far after the game, that I began to think we should not find our way back, as the wood was thick, without the slightest track. The Indian stopped for a moment to look round and consider, and then by some kind of instinct walked straight forward nearly to the spot where we had entered. That sort of sagacity, which is so remark- able in some animals, was possessed by these Indians in a still stronger degree. The world of nature was before them, and they appeared at home in all parts of it. They were never at a loss. Pro- possession of the Quito gentleman^ he would send him guarded to the intendente of Moyobamba as the head of the province. After hearing this account_, we began to make inquiries of the governor of Pebas respecting his district. It produces cocoa, or, as it is there called, cacao, sarsaparilla, vanilla^ white and black bees- wax, maize,, yucas^ plantains^ camotas, and papayas. There were neither cattle nor pigs belonging to the pueblo, but some poultry. The river supplies the vaca marina, tartaruga^ gavitanas^ sungarros, and pacos. In the woods there are tigres^ dantes, (which is another name for the tapir,) deer^ roonsookas^, and black and white monkeys. Cocoa grows wild^ and is plentiful; the beans or nuts are not large, but round, value four reals the aroba. Sarsaparilla three dollars the aroba, paid in hatchets and tucuya. Va- nilla is collected in the month of August ; most of it is bought from some of the Yagua nation^ hving about three days' journey on foot in the interior, and who are applied to when the intendente demands vanilla. About half an aroba is collected in a year^ and its value is four reals a pound. White bees- wax is four reals a pound ; black bees-wax one real a pound. We saw two black dyes at Pebas^ one called Chap. VII.] PEBAS. 199 * uitilla/ which is obtained by bruising the rind of a fruit about the size of a wahiut, having* seeds inside, and which is plentiful in the Montana^ squeezing* the juice out, and mixing it with water; from their not knowing how to fix it, this dye soon washes out. The other dye is got by boihng the leaves of a tree that is also plentiful in the Montana, steeping the cloth that is to be dyed, and afterwards covering it with mud for about two hours, to fix it. The gover- nor showed us a pair of trowsers dyed in this manner, and the black appeared to be good. The pueblo of Pebas nearly equals that of Oma- guas in size, although there did not appear to be so much fishing and traffic going on. The ranchos are built without any attention to streets. There is a church which is consecrated, but no padre ; and a quartel was preparing for the Moyobambian troop that were expected down. Though irregularly built, it was evident that both the pueblo and the Indians were in better order than at any place we had seen since embarking. The governor very candidly said, that if the In- dians behaved improperly, he punished them ; but he did not wish to treat them harshly. He endea- voured to do them justice both ways, by punishing them when they required it, without either abusing or imposing upon them ; and, as far as we could judge, his plan answered. The Indians appeared cheerful and industrious ; and, as a proof that he had acquired their confidence, he had summoned a num- 200 YAGUAS. [Chap. VII. ber of Indians^ belonging to different tribes^ who lived several days' journey in the woods^ and with whom he had only occasional dealings, to come and assist in the buildings he had been ordered to prepare for the Moyobambian troop. These people we saw at work^ and they had not the appearance of being compelled unwillingly. If^ as has appeared to me natural to suppose,, the subjects or descendants of the Incas retreated to the Montana from before the Spaniards, one of these tribes^ called the Yaguas^ bear strong marks of being so descended^ not only as they differ from the other Indians almost as much as they do from Europeans^ but, what is extraordinary, they wear their hair cut straight across the forehead^ and cropped behind, in the manner that is described as one of the distinguish- ing marks of the Incas, and which we never saw amongst any other of the Indians. They are tall and good figures, their complexion is a tawny yellow^ scarcely darker than the Moyobambian 's. Their hair is lighter than that of the common Indians, and the expression of their countenances far from stupid. They wear sashes made of thin white bark, which fall both before and behind ; and have their heads and arms ornamented with the long" feathers of the scarlet macaw, or, as it is there called, papagayo. Indeed I think it is scarcely possible to give a better description of the Yaguas we saw at Pebas, than by referring to the prints usually published of the Peruvians at the time of the Spanish conquest. Be- ^ Chap. VII.] ORIGONEa 201 • fore we left Pebas_, a large canoe^ manned by Yaguas, who had been to get trees for building, returned. The helmsman, who was an elderly person_, appeared to be a chief amongst them ; and a fine-looking young man_, who, from the resemblance, was probably the old man's son, sat aft, and did not work. The Origones, another tribe, were much darker, shorter, and rounder made than the Yaguas. They were much stained with dark colours. Those we saw at Pebas were clothed. The governor told us that twelve of the Origone tribe live in a large house not far up a small river or quebrada_, and that others wander about in the Montana. Their principal occupation is preparing poison for spears and arrows. Before the revolution there was a communication with several nations living half a month's journey in the interior_, particularly with the Putumayo nation near Pasto. The latter are numerous, and used formerly to collect much sarsaparilla and bees-wax ; but when the revolutionary war commenced_, the Spaniards sent soldiers to Pebas, and the Indians were afraid to come. We got more specimens at Pebas than we were able to obtain at most places^ including cocoa ; the black dyes ; vanilla, which has since been pronounced to be of a superior quality ; six dozen peuries* crests damaged, and afterwards destroyed by moths ; pu- cunas^ with the pouches and arrows belonging to them ; and a set of poisoned spears seven or eight feet long, intended for attacking either men or tigres. 202 PALO DE CRUZ. [Chap. VII. These spears are usually made of palm-wood^ with points of the same material; but the points are made distinct from the shaft of the spear_, and are fixed into a g-roove at the end, and then secured with twine. ^i The intention is_, that the point should break^ and re- main in the animal^ so as to give full effect to the poison. In the governor s house we saw some bas- kets of ' farinha de pao ' that had come from Tabi- tinga. The palo de cruz, or *" wood of the cross,' is ob- tained in this neighbourhood, and the governor offered us a log if we would wait until it could be brought from the Montana^ but we did not consider it risfht to lose so much time. This wood is close- grained_, of a dingy yellow colour^ with large dark veins. It is much esteemed in South America^, and is said to stop bleeding if applied to a wound. At Santa Cruz we saw some sticks of it that had been sent by the governor of Pebas to be forwarded towards the coast. There is a wood in Ceylon that resembles the palo de cruz much in appearance,, but Í do not know the name of it. Amongst the things I had brought from Lima were several strings of beads with crosses affixed to them. These we had avoided giving in exchange for specimens, as not thinking it right to make a barter of them ; and as few of the Indians at Pebas had been visited by padres^ and appeared, generally anxious for some symbol of Christianity^ we distributed the beads and crosses amongst them. It indeed ap- Chap. VII.] . VEIN OF COAL. 203 peared a pity that missionaries of some denomination should not be sent amongst such a people ; for what- ever difference of opinion may exist in some points between the followers of the church of Rome and Protestants, any profession of Christianity must be far superior to savage heathenism. At the landing-place we observed a vein of what we supposed to be coal. The vein was from two to three feet in thickness^ running horizontally about three feet above the water's-edge^ with a light brown clay rock above and below it. Between two and three o'clock in the afternoon we proceeded. I Bearing. Length. Mfles. Breadth. Miles. Depth. Fathoms. REMARKS. E.S.E. 3 f 20 20 Main channel. S.E. 4 1 mile South. H è 6^ 6Í Passage between an island and the ' left bank. S.S.E. ^ I a 9 9 9 10 10 Passage between two islands. Abreast a sandy island, 10 fathoms. South. 4 Itoli Principal channel. Many islands. S.S.E. 3 ■Í 9 9 Principal channel. Pueblo of Cochichenas situated on a high part of the right bank ; brought-to. Immediately below Pebas we saw a herd of roon- 204 COCHICHENAS. [Chap. VII. sookas climbing" up the bank from the water, where they had probably been drinking*^ into the jungle. They were too far off to fire^ but we saw them dis- tinctly; their appearance was that of swine; they were led by a large old one, abreast of which walked a young one. The others were smaller than the leader, and followed regularly in a Hne. These ani- mals have tracks in the Montaiia trodden in a simi- lar manner to sheep-walks in England. We gene- rally found the tracks most numerous where palms were most abundant, on the nuts of which the animals feed. They are also destructive to chacras. Towards sunset we passed a playa, on which we saw two men_, who hailed us in Spanish. We at first thought that they had been left by the Indians, and rounded-to; but afterwards seeing Indians with them^ and finding they were only wanting to ask questions^ we passed on. In the evening_, paddling towards a playa to cook^ my canoe struck a vaca marina that was feeding. Late at night we arrived^ and brought-to at the pueblo of Cochichenas ; but as the people were all asleep, we did not go out of the canoes until the mornings except that the Indians pitched their tents or canopies, and slept on the bank. On going into the pueblo in the mornings we learnt that the governor had started the day before for Pe- bas, and it was probably he who had hailed us from the playa. The Indian alcalde, who ruled in the gover- nor's absence, informed us that the district produces ^ Chap. VII.] COCHICHENAS. 205 sarsaparilla, white bees-wax^ maise, yucas, and plan- tains_, but neither balsams nor gums. Cotton grows when sown^ but little is raised, and it was valued at a real a pound. I got some as a specimen^ which was said to have come from an island called Cliagra^ a short distance below Cochichenas. We were told that the muena grows to a large size in the Montana. The smaller indigo grows here, and I got specimens of two black dyes different from those we saw at Pebas ; one of these dyes is extracted from a bark called cashi cari ; the other from leaves somewhat resembling those of the larger indigo^ excepting that there are only three leaves on the same stem instead of five : it was called anapanga. Muenas are to be found in the Montana, and grow to a large size. There are three kinds^ the seeds of one being" much smaller than those of the other two. We could not get specimens either of the seeds or wood. In addition to the wild animals usually mentioned, we were told that wangaras, the oso hormiguero^ (which I believe is the ant-bear_,) and kakywars^ described as resembling pigs, are to be met with in the Montana. The pueblo consists only of a few poor ranchos^ built without any kind of order^ and inhabited by twelve or fourteen married couples of Christians. Most of the men were away up the Napo collecting sarsaparilla ; amongst the women we saw one with light flaxen hair. As a mark of the civilization of 206 COCHICHENAS. [Chap. VII. Cochichenas, the shoulder-bone of some animal was tied to the end of a stick in lieu of an iron spade for cultivation. I got one of these implements as a spe- cimen^ but unfortunately it was lost^ with several other specimens, when we came to what ought to have been the leasts but which we found to be the most_, barbarous part of our passage. I also got a pair of small parrots_, with blue heads and necks^ which were uncommon ; a ball of small line made of grass^ intended either for fishing or hammocks ; and a fan for musquitoes^ made of a grey eagle's feathers. As we were starting, a large alligator was cruizing off and on the landing-place, and as we passed tole- rably near, I fired at him with a ball, which appa- rently struck^ and he sunk, making a considerable splash, to the great joy of the Indians. The alliga- tors in this part of the Maranon_, though not so nume- rous, appeared more troublesome than we afterwards found them. It was not unusual in this part to hear of men having lost their arms_, whilst lower down several of them would lie close to us without offering any molestation. It was remarkable that^ if fired at without being hit^ they did not regard the noise. We were told that a ball would not enter their skin_, but I differ in opinion. When swimming, the head, particularly the eyes, which are raised above the other parts of the head, and the joints of the tail^ are all that are visible ; the body is under water. Chap. VIL] CAMUCHEROS. 207 Bearing. Length. Breadth. Depth. Miles. Miles. Fathoms. KE.MARKS. Soutli, 3 s I 11 11 8 A.M. 29lh, left Cochichenas. Main channel, near the right bank, 1 1 fathoms. S.E. 3 i 9 9 5 No islands. S.S.E. 2 ftoi A low sandy island on the larboard side : 5 we arc nearest to the right bank. S.E. 1 S.S.E. 4 f 11 11 Main cliannel. The stratum, which we supposed to be coal at Pebas, is here very evident, ex- tending along the right bank (the opposite bank to Pebas.) In some parts ii rises and in others sinks a few feet, but on the whole, runs nearly parallel with, and one or two feet above, the level of the river. Height of the bank above the vein from twenty to thirty feet ; light brown clay rock immediately above and below the stratum : specimens taken. East. 5 1 mile. 15 15 Maia channel. N.E. 5 ^to 1 mile. East. 4 ^tof 3:^ 34 Low sandy bank on the starboard side, in mid-channel, abreast, but not in the strength of the stream, 3^ fathoms. Pueblo on the right bank'; bring-to. At noon on the 29th we came to a collection of ranchos also on the right bank_, and brought-to. Whether this is what the vicar of Moyobamba calls Camucheros, I cannot say. The canoemen called it an Indian pueblo ; and the account given us by a man who spoke the Spanish language^ and whom we found here, was, that about two years before, he had collected the Indians who were wandering in the Montana_, supplied them with tools_, and got them to build their present pueblo. In its appear- 208 CAMUCHEROS. [Chap. VII. ance the new settlement was not flourishing- ; and although the founder informed us the Indians had bestowed on him the appellation of father, his account in other points did not agree, as he said the Indians frequently left him ; and when he sent to them to come back^ they returned excuses. He also told us that sarsaparilla was not found in the neighbourhood, when^ on entering the house, or rancho_, in which he lived, the first things we saw were two bundles of sarsaparilla. On the whole, it appeared probable that the Indians had discovered that interested rather than fatherly motives had been the cause of this man's drawing them together. A wooden sugar mill was erected^ and a kind of syrup sometimes made ; but_, in consequence of the absence of most of the Indians, it was not at work. The few Indians who were present were not healthy^ and in the course of our passage down the Maranon we saw several decided cases of consumption,, al- though the country is not supposed to be generally unhealthy. In one of the ranchos some Indian women were sitting round a large earthen jar, chew- ing yucas for chica. White beads were preferred by these Indians^ showing a difference between them and others we had seen. At Balsa Puerto, yellow beads were wanted, and afterwards darker colours were chosen. We got some baskets that were neatly made, and suspended by straps of a tough kind of bark, which the Indians placed over their foreheads^ Chap. VII.] PEBAS. 209 carrying the cargoes on their backs. We also got more of the grey eagle's feathers. Bearing. I>enRth. Miles. Breadth. Wiles. Depth. Fathoms. REM.\RKS. S.E. 5 fto 10^ Principal channel. 1 n)ile. 101 In the .-.tream, 10:^ fathoms. S.S.E. 3 f to 1 mile. 5 In mid-channel. E.S.E. 4 3. '1 01 In mid-channel, but not in lhe stream, only 21 fathoms. The Iiidinns give ns to understand that there is a superior passage going further round ; and although tliis is broad, it appears probable that it may not be the principal, as there are no trees floating down. S.E.bE. 6 3 1^ Near the right bank, and in the stream. N.E. H 1 A heavy squall with the wind from the N.W. ; obliged to bring-to until the squall is past. N.E.bE. 5 1 mile. 8 8 2è 2è 2è Nearest to theleft bonk, several sandy points and islands, only 2^ fathoms in the pas- sage we take, but it does not appear to be the principal. N.E. 4 ^tof 16 16 Near the right bank. N.bE. 5 fto 1 mile. A principal channel. N.E.bN. 4 ètof 101 Alow sandy point on the larboard side; near the right bank, and in the stream, abreast, lOA fathoms. Several islands. E.N.E. 4 Atof 8 A sandy bank on the larboard side whon 8 8 abreast, and not far from it, 8 fathoms. E.S.E. 7 ftoli 3f 5 5 When abreast a low point of an island on the larboard side, not in the stream, and not far from the island, 3^- fathoms : af- terwards near the larboard side, and still not in the strength of the current, 5 fa- thoms. 210 LORETTO. [Chap. VII. Bearing. Length. Miles. Breadth. Miles. Depth. Fathoms. REMARKS. NE. 5 vari- able. Many islands; the breadth of the river varies from three-quarters of a mile be- tween some of the islands to a mile and a half as we open them. 5 Near the left bank, 5 fathoms ; near the 5 right bank and in the stream, 13 fathoms ; 13 in mid-channel but not in the stream, low 13 7 7 12 sandy banks on both sides, 7 fathoms. ES.E. 4 f In the bight 12 fathoms; roots at the bot- 12 tom catch the lead. 18 Low sand on starboard side, in mid-chan- 18 nel abreast, 18 fathoms ; Loretto on the left bank. Between ten and eleven o'clock at night, being in a broad channel, a heavy squall from the northward and westward came on so suddenly that we had not time to gain the weather shore^ and before we could get hold of the lee one we were near being wrecked on a large tree that had stuck a short distance from the bank. The Indians behaved extremely well^ getting their canoes alongside each other for greater stability, and plying their paddles and baling with much spirit and activity ; having taken their clothes off to prevent their being wetted, they appeared not to care for the weather^ which was heavy. When the squall had passed, the Indians dressed themselves, paddled over to the weather shore^ and brought-to for the night. At daylight we again proceeded, and arrived at Loretto about sunset. We were met at the landing-place by the governor^ with whom we Chap. VII.] LORETTO. 211 walked up to the quartel^ a large thatched building* divided into three apartments, in one of which the governor lived. This building was^ we found, the only one finished in Loretto, and the governor and his family the only Christians. Other buildings were makings and there were some infidel Indians, one of whom we passed in coming up from the land- ing place ; he belonged to the Tecuna nation^ had only a belt of bark round his waist, some rows of teeth round his neck_, and some feathers on his arms. He was cooking- his supper at a fire made on the ground^ with some branches of palm trees to keep off the wind. The governor told us that Loretto had formerly been situated on the bank of a que- brada emptying itself into the Maranon ; its present site had been fixed upon about a year before. It was^ in every sense^ the last of the Peruvian pueblos we visited. Yet even here the genuine hospitality we had, with few exceptions, experienced throughout Peru, was not wanting ; a fowl was cooked for our supper, and when some of the things brought from Lima were offered in return, the governor and his wife thought they had received too much ; and al- though we repeatedly declined it, persisted in put- ting another fowl into one of the canoes. We were literally afraid of leaving them short of provisions. Whilst getting our supper, Mr. Hinde and myself had been amused at the governor's remarks respect- ing his return to Cochichenas, of which place we P 2 212 LORETTO. [Chap. Vll. found he was a native, and of which _, miserable as we had found it, he thought as much as we did of England. The canoemen wished to remain at Loretto for the night ; and as it appeared likely for rain^ and one of them complaining that he was not well, we consented ; but on going down^ as usual, to sleep in the canoes, we were attacked by such legions of musquitoes_, that it was not only impossible to sleep^ but to remain where we were. About ten o'clock we roused the Indians, and stowing the sick man in my apalmacaya^ proceeded to Tabitinga, the frontier post of Peru and Brazil, but held by the Brazilians. Towards morning we passed a canoe in which were some Indians playing on one of their bone pipes^ but it was too dark to see them. Shortly before reaching Tabitinga we passed a pueblo on the left bank, the name of which I could not learn from the Indians^ but which was^ perhaps_, Putumayo^ men- tioned by the vicar of Moyobamba. Chap. VII.] LORETTO. i.1 Bearing. E.S.E. S.S.E. S.E.bE. E.S.E. S.E bS. S.E. S.E.bS. E.S.E. South. Length. MUes. 1 Breadth. .Miles. Depth. Fathoms. 2 f to I mile. 3 mile. 17 17 7 No bottom . with 20 7 H 5 fto 12 1 mile. 12 5 fto I mile. 3 H 4 f 3 ètof REM.\RKS. Main channel. Nearest to the left bank. Main channel clear of islands ; trees, pieces of NYOod, &c. floating down the stream. No bottom with 20 fathoms. A wide opening through the right bank having the appearance of a large river joining from the southward, or of the Maranon dividing into two channels. Nearest to the left bank. Near the left bank, and out of the stream, 5 fathoms. About this place passed a pueblo on the lelt bank. Tabitinga, the frontier post of Brazil, situateil on a steep part of the left bank of the Maranon. •* r 214 CHAPTER VIII. Land at Tabitinga — Present passport and British Consul's letter to Comman. dante of frontier — Assured of our passage being facilitated — Padre Bruno- Inquiries respecting Peru — Quarters — Conversation relative to the new Commandante, and our proceeding — Indian festival — Drs. Spix and Mar- tins — Canoe and Indians from the Ucayali — Paths and chacras in the woods . — Indian mode of clearing ground — Description of Pueblo and Indians — Pucuna poison — Commandante's equivocation — Visits to Padre — Peruvian's engagement with a tigre — Sarsaparilla — Parrots^ land tortoises, and monkeys — Vaca marina — Skin of Tapir. At daylight, on Thursday, 31st January, we came m sight of Tabitinga, the frontier post of Brazil, situated on a high and abrupt part of the left or northern bank of the Maraiion, where the river runs in a single channel, about three-quarters of a mile broad. We were hailed by a sentry from a look- out post that was raised on four piles ; and having answered who we were, and where from, landed to communicate with the governor^ or, as he was some- times called, commandante of the frontier. On reaching the commandante's house, I showed him the British Consul's letter, with my Peruvian passport, and Mr. Hinde presented his passport. When he had read them, we requested to know whether there was any obstacle to our proceeding to Para, and we were told none ; on the contrary, we were assured that every faciUty would be afforded us, and were led to suppose that the difficulties of the passage were in a great measure at an end ; in which supposition, however, we afterwards found ourselves Chap. VIII.] TABITINGA. 215 wofully disappointed. We next inquired by what means we should be able to proceed, and were told that a boat would be got for us ; or^ if the comman- dante's successor^ who was hourly expected, arrived before we started^ we naig^ht accompany the present commandante in a large boat or small river craft that was lying in the port. Some coffee was then offered to us. Quarters were to be provided for us ; and we were introduced to a padre who came in, of whom we afterwards saw much, and whom we found to possess more general information than most persons we had met with on the passage. His name was Bruno. He was a native of Havannah_, had left Peru during the disturbances of the revolution^ and had waited at the frontier to see what would be the result of the contest. While at Tabitinga he performed the church services for the curate of St. Pablo, to whose parish Tabitinga belongs, but he received no emolument. He also acted as agent to the intendente of Moyobamba and the prefect of the missions on the Ucayali, and was said to have made some money by a traffic in sarsaparilla and ironware. Many questions were asked us relative to the effects produced by the revolution in Peru. The opinion here was, that General Bolivar intended to make himself master of, and absolute in the former Spanish colonies, and that it was not improbable he would afterwards invade Brazil. In the meantime quarters had been got for us ; but, on our going to take possession^ we found that they consisted of a 216 TABITINGA. [Chap. VIII. small place parted off from a smith's sbop^ in which some soldiers were workings and through which was the entrance. Rude and exposed as our manner of living had now become, we did not altogether admire n either the noise or company of the smiths^ and there- fore determined^ if possible,, to get some other place. We had no objection to pay for shelter^ but rather than take up our abode in the quarters allotted to us^ we would pitch the tent^ and endeavour to weather out in it, although it was the rainy season. After some difficulty we got a small room^ without either window or any other opening than the door and some rats' holes, of which the ground was the floor^ and for which we were to pay three reals per day. The first point was to get the apartment cleared out and swept ; our baggage, with some birds we had bought^ and which were also to be stowed in it^ brought up out of the canoes ; and some stages or scaffoldings made of stakes for our beds. In these operations we employed the Indians who had come with us. In the evening we were called upon by the com- mandante^, who was civil in offering us the use of his table^ as he said it would be difficult to obtain pro- visions. Mr. Hinde returned with him to supper; but as I felt much fagged^ from having been sound- ings Scc.y during the previous nighty I was glad to g-et to rest. By the time we were up in the morning, the ca- noemen who had come with us were off, having started on their return. It had been my intention to Chap. VIU.] TABITINGA. 217 give them something extra before parting, as they had worked hard_, and had, on the whole, behaved well ; but, from the time of our arrival, except when they were employed bringing up our baggage, making bed-places, &c., for us, they had kept close to their canoes, and there appeared to be an anxiety about them to get back well into their own, at least the Peruvian territory. They had, I believe, agreed to stay and rest at Loretto, and it would take them about a month to get back to Laguna. In the forenoon I accompanied Mr. Hinde to the commandante's house. The padre was present, and the subject of our passage was again discussed. W^e were desirous of gaining information respecting the passage, more particularly as to the probable time we should be going down to Para. We were told that we might go down in a month, or less. But the com mandante now began to say, that as he had only been appointed, in consequence of the former com- mandante of the frontier having gone away ill, to act until another should arrive, he wished his suc- cessor might reach Tabitinga before he started ; and, indeed, as he was hourly or daily expected, it was most probable he would do so. These observations sounded ominously, particularly from the manner in which^ and the person by whom, they were made. We had already been told that the new commandante had been near a year on his passage from Para ; that he had met with accidents, and had been taken un- well ; moreover, he was described as an old man. It 218 TABITINGA. [Chap. VIII, was, therefore^ not improbable, ttiat^ as he had been so long in making his appearance^ he never might arrive ; and if we were afterwards to wait for his successor, we might almost as well settle at Tabitinga^ which >^ did not much accord with our ideas. I therefore thought it better, to prevent any future misunder- standing, by asking at once, whether_, if the new com- mandante did not arrive before, the present one would give us the means of proceeding on Monday morn- ing. We had no objection to see the new comman- dante ; on the contrary, we should be happy of his acquaintance, particularly as we were informed he was an old veteran who had seen service, and been much knocked about ; but it was evident, from the time he had been expected, that his arrival was un- certain, and it was not convenient for us to continue at Tabitinga. The governor assured us_, that if his successor did not arrive before, he would give us the means of proceeding on Monday morning ; and con- fidence was thus re-established. We added that we were quite ready and desirous to pay whatever was right, but were told that the orders at the frontier were, that strangers were to be forwarded free of ex- pense. ■' During the week we went frequently to the go- vernor's and the padre's houses, and accompanied the form.er to an Indian dance or festival. These festivals are not uncommon at Tabitinga^, occurring, 1 believe, about once a month_, when the Indians, few of whom live in the pueblo^ collect, and dance Chap. VIII.] TABITINGA. 219 and drink chicha for three days to such an excess, that they become thoroughly stupified ; and it requires four-and-twenty hours, or one day and night's sleep to recover them. The dances are performed in masks, and there is much acting in the performance : that which we saw appeared to me to rehxte to some story, but what the story was 1 could not learn, although I made repeated inquiries. I will^ how- ever, attempt to describe that part of the performance we witnessed. At the time we entered, which was after the dance had commenced on the first evening, several persons were collected in a house that had apparently not been long built, standing close round the walls inside, so as to leave the middle of the apartment clear for the dancers and their attendants, the latter of whom were numerous. Seats were given us near the mas- ter of the ceremonies, an elderly Indian who stood alone. The dancers, who, from what we could judge of their figures when disguised, appeared to be men, were dressed in shirts made of bark, stripped off the trees whole, therefore having no seam, and marked with rude figures of different colours, principally red and yellow. The shirt was con- tinued over the head, with holes for the eyes, nose, and mouth, and above the shirt was a head-dress made from the stems of Indian corn ; sleeves were made of the bark of smaller trees or branches, also without seam, except where they joined the body of the shirt ; and ears were attached according to the ob- 220 TABITINGA. [Chap. VIII. jects intended to be represented_, some resembling monkeys. On the legs^, particularly on the right ankle, were tied strings of rattles, made from the shells of some small hard nut, the sound of which >j| was loud^ but not disagreeable. The dancers were usually linked three tog^ether, one principal charac- ter supported by two others, one on each side ; and there were generally two sets dancing at the same time_, each set being followed by women and chil- dren dancing or jumping in a similar manner. The step was a kind of run, one, two, three_, then the same number of beats wàth the heel, jerking the rat- tles, and then on again, one^ two, three, passing £ij continually round and across the apartment. After the parties who were dancing when we entered had gone on for some time, the arrival of fresh characters was announced by a noise, (I think beating a kind of drum at the door ;) room was then made ; the first performers retired, and the new comers entered, dressed so as to represent various characters, and armed with false spears or javelins^ which they darted into the thatch of the roof inside the house, and then proceeded to dance in a similar manner to their predecessors. The conclusion of the festival was, that the women as well as the men were all intoxicated, and the day after the rites ter- minated, few Indians were seen out of their ham- mocks. We availed ourselves of the opportunity to obtain some of their costumes, &c. I got two bark dresses, Chap. VIII.] TABITIXGA. 221 some necklaces made of teeth^ and a bark belt, which is the only dress of some of the Tacunas. I also got a string- of the scarlet macaws, or, as they are there called, arara's feathers, resembling- the head-dress described as having- been worn by the Peruvians at the time of the Spanish conquest. One of the In- dians, who came to the festival, brought a few birds which he had shot with his pucuna, and stuffed with cotton, slung over his shoulder; these we also got. The commandante had several string- of birds of simi- lar descriptions, and stuffed in a similar manner, hanging in the veranda of his house, which he in- tended taking' down to Para. He had also got a young king of the vultures, and some monkeys of a rare species. The accounts given us at Tabitinga of Dr. Spix, the German naturalist, who had come up to the fron- tier, with particular directions from the emperor for assistance to be rendered to him, were considered as little less than marvellous by the relaters. He had examined various subjects ; and we were told that there was not a monkey in the district one or more of whose species he had not stuffed. The scientific ability and indefatigable perseverance of this gentle- man, and of his companion. Dr. Martins, who pro- ceeded up the Japurá, and of whom we afterwards heard much from Colonel Zany, commandante of militias at the Rio Negro, who accompanied Dr. Martins by order of the government, and obtained his rank of colonel for having done so, are too well 222 TABITIXGA. [Chap. VIII. known for me to presume to say more respecting* them. There was a large caooe at Tabitinga that had come down the Ucayali w'ith sarsaparilla belonging to the intendente of Moyobamba^ and his uncle^ the prefect of the missions on the Ucayah. She had been consigned to the padre^ and was waiting for some goods which the new commandante was supposed to be bringing up with him. The Indians who manned the canoe belonged to the Ucayali missions; they were savage^ that is to say, rude in their appearance, but quiet and peaceable in their manner. Their dress consisted of a single garment, not much unlike an English carter's frock, made of coarse cotton cloth^ and dyed of a bro\yn colour. Their weapons were bows, made of palm wood, and about six feet long, and arrows of strong reeds, as stout as a man's finger, without knots, and headed, some with bone, others with a broad hollow cane split in halves, and pointed. We got several of these bows and arrows in exchange for knives, fish-hooks, large needles, &c. which were valued hio^hly bv these poor beinsfs, and some of which we distributed amongst them, but not in such numbers as to render them valueless. When at Moyobamba, the intendente assured us that his uncle, the prefect of the missions, had seen an arrow headed with cane, and shot from a Ucayali bow, enter a man's chest, and show itself through the back. The man who had charge of the canoe was a Pe- Chap. VIII.] TABITIXGA. 223 ruviaii, and spoke the Spanish language. The account he gave of the UcayaU was, that Sarayacu is the highest station of the missionaries, and the resi- dence of Padre Plaza, the prefect. The Ucayali is broad and deep as far as Sarayacu^, but divides into smaller streams soon afterwards. He had been up the Ucayali as far as Ocopa, noted as the college of the missionaries^ and only a few days' distance by land from Lima. Some of the Indians between Sara- yacu and Ocopa are dangerous^ but others come down to trade. I do not suppose that these accounts are implicitly to be relied upon^ although 1 give them as the best we received in the country. During the time we were at Tabitinga^ when we were not at the governor's or padre's houses^ or employed feeding the birds^ &c., in our own cell^ we occupied ourselves by following such paths as we could find in the woods^ there being little open ground. These paths frequently led to patches that had so far been cleared that the trees had been cut down_, and mandioca planted_, but without much attention to the niceties of agriculture. There was_, however, some originality and ingenuity about them. The Indian mode of clearing ground of wood is not, as in England^ by cutting the trees down at the roots, but about four or five feet from the ground, in consequence of which the roots decay more rapidly than they otherwise would do ; and the upper and main parts of the trees being left until they are dry, fire is applied to consume 224 TABITINGA. [Chap. VIII. them, by which means a supply of manure is obtained from the ashes, although^ in all probability, it is not required. Some of these patches have sheds attached to them, and are then designated chacras (farms). We visited a chacra whilst the proprietors of it were attending the Tabitinga festival. The mansion was a shed, supported on piles, and thatched with palm leaves_, but open at the sides. The furniture con- sisted of a large clay stove for drying mandioc farinha^, and the broken remains of some coarse earthen jars. In one of our walks we met with several large bundles of palm leaves, tied and left at about equal distances on the path. The inference Mr. Hinde drew was, that some one of the Indians was going to make a chacra^ by building a shed, and his friends had contributed the bundles of palm leaves, and carried them to given points. We had previously found that when an Indian is going to erect a house or rancho, he obtains the assistance of his friends, who contribute bundles of palm leaves, &c., and the whole is soon completed. The woods were stocked with peuries, or curassow birds, that sat on the highest trees, and, calling to each other, amused us by their varied and plaintive but pleasing notes. When we did not go into the woods, we usually walked towards a wooden fort, between which and the ranchos, or pueblo, is the longest space of clear ground about Tabitinga. The piles of the fort had gone to decay, but there were four handsome long Chap. VIIL] TABITINGA. 225 six or nine pounder brass guns mounted^ on which we occasionally sat looking* for the new commandante making his appearance. We were told that Tabitinga was formerly held jointly by the Portuguese and Spaniards^ each of whom had a garrison there. The piles that had sup- ported the different barracks still remained^ but neither were in use. Between the fort, which stands on a high, steep bank, higher up the river than the pueblo, and commands a view of the river both ways, and the water, is a low flat, forty or fifty yards broad. The pueblo consists principally of the governor's and padre's houses, and of ranchos belonging to the sol- diers who form the garrison. At the time we were there the garrison consisted of a sergeant and fifteen soldiers, most of whom were married to Indian wo- men : we afterwards met reinforcements on their way up. Few Indians live at Tabitinga ; they come in oc- casionally from the woods to hold their festivals, and bring sarsaparilla, birds, skins, &c., to sell. During our stay the tecuna we had seen at Loretto came down in a small canoe with some maize or Indian corn, but he returned almost immediately. Even those who had ranchos in the pueblo were often at their chacras in the woods ; and an Indian Alcade, who was here on the same principle as in the Peruvian pueblos, was almost as much at his chacra as in the pueblo. The governor's house is immediately above the landing- place, and has a thatched viranda with a wooden ba- lustrade in front. Before it were two small brass guns Q 220 TABITINGA. [Chap. VIII. mounted on carriages, and which might heave about a two-pounds shot. There is a church or chapel which is attached to the district of the padre of St, Pablo, but at which Padre Bruno regularly officiated. Several cattle belong to the churchy and are occa- sionally sold when purchasers can be found for them. Their milk is not taken, but they are taught to assem- ble in front of the church and the governor s house every evening, at sunset, for protection. We were told that the Indians killed and lamed the cattle. There was then a young beast that was lame, and which had probably been injured in that manner. One evening as Mr. Hinde and myself were walk- ing leisurely towards the fort_, an Indian came out of the wood, but on seeing us rushed suddenly back again, in a manner that we could not account for, unless his intention had been to injure the cattle. This mischievous cruelty to the cattle did not bespeak much good feeling towards the owners. We were not at that time aware of the general cause of Indian animosity ; but it was evident that when the Peru- vian Indians came down^ they were always in a hurry to get aw^ay again. Those who came consigned to Padre Bruno considered themselves safe under his protection, his influence being great. Some of the Tabitinga Indians have a preposte- { rous practice of tying ligatures so tight under the knees and elbows, that the circulation of the blood must be in a great measure stopped ; the joints swell in consequence^ and the flesh and muscle of the limbs Chap. VIII.] TABITINGA. 227 entirely dwindle. Their knowledge and application of particular herbs is as remarkable as their ignorance of others. Whilst we were at Tabitinga_, an Indian who had gone into the woods to collect sarsaparilla, was bit by one of the deadly snakes of the country, and was brought back to the pueblo supposed to be dying. Being a Christian, Padre Bruno went to per- form the last offices of the church over him ; but the women took charge, and, by the application of herbs, cured him in three days. The poison in which the Indians dip their wooden spears, and the small arrows for their pucunas, has frequently attracted notice by its power and rapidity of execution. Its preparation is kept a mystery confined to certain tribes, and that manufactured by different tribes may perhaps differ ; but from its great value amongst the Indians, the difficulty of procuring it, and from those by whom it is manufactured being inferior tribes, and of the lowest order of savages, I suspect that the prepara- tion is not altogether a safe process. I had endea- voured to get some of this poison, but without suc- cess, until some men, seeing a large knife of the same kind as those with which we had paid the Laguna canoemen, and which we intended to keep, as it might be useful, being about eighteen inches long, brought several bows, arrows, &c- to obtain it ; but we had got sufficient bows and arrows, and would not give the knife. At last, after various attempts had been made, a jar of poison was brought, and the knife was then given. Yet so much was the poison coveted, Q 2 228 ' TABITINGA. [Chap. VIII. that when we reached the Rio Negro, it was stolen, and I am indebted to Colonel Zany for another jar, which is now in the hands of Mr. Brodie. Its effects are rather stupifying than convulsive. Salt and sugar are both considered remedies, taken inwardly, and applied externally. Sunday having arrived, and there being no ap- pearance of the new commandante, after mass, we went to the governor to request he would give direc- tions for our proceeding as early as possible in the morning, in order that no time might be lost. As I before supposed he had intended, he now began to make excuses, urging us to remain until the new commandante arrived. It was, however, evident that if we once consented to such delays, our proceed- ing would be altogether uncertain. The governor was therefore reminded of the time the new com- mandante had been coming up the river, of his ill- ness, accidents, the time he had been expected, and the uncertainty of his arrival ; also of the assurances which he, the governor, had given us, and of the attention due to the letter of his Britannic Majesty's consuls. We again expressed our readiness and desire to pay for whatever expenses we might incur : we were also ready to show every respect and attention to all and each of the Brazilian authorities whom we might meet; but we felt it to be our duty as British subjects, and particularly mine as an officer in his Britannic Majesty's navy, to require a corresponding consideration. After some further delay, the gover- nor saw the impropriety of detaining us^ and gave Chap. VIII.] TABITINGA. . 229 directions for a galatea^ a boat about the size of a heavy frigate's cutter, having a square stem above water^ to be got ready; but as she required caulking^ we could not start for several days. The governor had been attentive in inviting us to his table, and civil in other respects : his proceeding in this case also probably arose from an over anxiety not to do wrong ; nevertheless, having attempted to withdraw his assurance, we did not continue to go to his house in the manner we had previously done. The padre spoke well of the governor, saying that he was just and liberal, and did not attempt to monopolize traffic like some of the commandantes. The padre was himself a superior person to any we met for some months. He possessed much general information, had the agreeable politeness of a well-bred Spaniard in his manner, and was liberal in his principles, although a supporter of the old order of things. To us his society was invaluable at Tabitinga, and he had no objection to meet with per- sons with whom he could converse on general sub- jects. Even religion was not excluded from our topics of conversation. The padre, of course, did not express his approbation of our being Protestants, still he did not hold out condemnation. He said that before the reformation, England had obtained the title of the flower of religion, and had given birth to the eleven thousand virgins. On the whole, had there never been wider differences between the fol- lowers of the churches of Rome and of England, 230 . TABITINGA. [Chap. VIII. than between our friend Padre Bruno and ourselves,, there would never have been much violence. The padre complained of bad health, proceeding* from an affection of the intestines. He had managed to get some tea through his commercial correspond- ents, and one afternoon^ when we went to call upon liim^ he offered us some. It was, as may be supposed, not of the best quality, and had neither refined sugar nor cream to improve its flavour ; but I can scarcely express the delightful effects of the padre's small cup of bad tea ; if such an expression were correct or in- telligible, I would say it appeared to wash the brain. We also were unwell. The fact was^ the horrible diet on which we were living, added to the effects of exposure and fatigue, and the want of regular exer- cise^ which could not be got at Tabitinga^ acting upon constitutions previously affected^ produced all kinds of maladies. During our daily visits, the padre related to us various anecdotes and descriptions of Peru^ which corresponded generally with what we had seen. At his house we met with a Peruvian^ a man about six feet high^ and unusually stout in proportion, who^ amongst other adventures^ had had an extraordinary engagement with a tigre^ the marks of whose claws and teeth he still retained on his head and arm^ although several years had elapsed since the combat. Repetitions of such recitals are not easy_, inasmuch as the spirit of them depends greatly on the manner and peculiarities of the actors^ which are almost inde- scribable. Chap.VIII.J TABITINGA. 231 The tigre's antagonist and his brother were pro- prietors of a chacra that was infested by animals coming under the general denomination of tigre^ and which includes a variety of species, some incompara- bly more formidable than others. What was the particular description of this animal^ I do not know ; the reader must endeavour to form his judgment from the narration. However^ our acquaintance passing- one day through part of his chacra, saw the tigre lying under a bush or tree_, and according to the Peruvian, or perhaps his own more peculiar manner, he addressed it. *' Ho^ my friend, you are there^ are you? I have been seeking you for some time^ and we have a long account to settle. Wait till I get my weaponsy and I will be with you again quickly." Accordingly, going to the house of the chacra,, he got his pucuna and arrows, and returned: these men always wear a long knife in a leather sheath^ suspended to a strap that buckles round the waist. When the tigre saw him coming with his pucuna^ he thought it time to be off, and springing up^ began to run. A chase then commenced — the man's conversation also proceeding — *^ What^ you are off no w^ are you? but you shall not pass quite so easily ; we must have some further communication before we part." In the mean time, the tigre^ either not liking the sound of the man's voice, or the ap- pearance of his weapons, made a spring, and got up into a tree. A momentary pause ensued^ when the man laying down his spears^ if he had any^ (which I 232 TABITINGA. tChap. VIII. really do not know) began to make use of his pucuna by blowing poisoned arrows at the tigre ; but either the poison was old_, and not good, or the tigre's skin was too tough and glossy^ as no deadly effect weis produced; but the animal was annoyed^ and, after several arrows had been blown at him^ sprung or fell from the tree^ and again started to run. The chase was renewed^ and the man came up^ the tigre turning on his haunches to defend himself. The pu- cuna was now of no use^ and was thrown aside ; the left arm advanced to keep the animal off, whilst with the right the man felt for his knife .... The exertion of running had broke the strap, and he was without arms. Desperation sometimes gives courage_, and this man was evidently not deficient in what at that time was a desirable quality ; moreover his strength was uncommon. He remained firmly on his guard. The tigre attempted to spring ; the man struck him with his fist on the nose, still keeping his left side forward, and his arm extended^ and continuing his conversation ; ^^ I am without arms ; but I am not beat." The tigre made another spring, and was again struck on the nose ; some other remark was made, and in this manner the combat went on until the tigre finding himself foiled in his endeavours to spring, made various other attacks. On one occasion_, he seized the man's left arm^ and bit it through^ but was again struck on the nose, and fortunately let go without injuring the bone: on another occasion he got one of his paws on the man's head^ and the claws ^ V? Chap. VIII.] TABITINGA. 233 tore through the scalp to the skull ; the marks and the man's height proved that they were no kitten's claws. In the end, the man would probably have fallen^ but his brother hearing* him talk in rather an uncommon manner^ came up with a spear^ and run the tigre through the body. * After the story was finished the padre asked the man ^' what made him go and fight with a wild beast?'* However^ he said, the account was true, as^ indeed^ the marks on the man's head and arm proved. We were also told of a Peruvian pueblo that was infested by an animal of this denomination, and which I think was said to be black, that would walk into the plaza in the middle of the day, and seize on the first person it could lay hold off. It carried off about fifty people before it could be destroyed. It was at length shot. The Indians who were waiting to convey part of the new commandante's cargo up the Ucayali, were employed by the padre in repacking sarsaparilla, and, I believe, in increasing the packages from Spanish arobas, of twenty-five pounds each, to Portu- guese of thirty-two pounds each. The roots were laid together lengthways, making bundles of about five feet long and a foot in diameter, bound round with sogas or creepers the thickness of a man's little finger, and so pliant that they were kept in coils. The turns were passed tight and close together, so as to protect the sarsaparilla from damage. The value of sarsaparilla at Tabitinga was, on an 234 TABITINGA. [Chap. VIII. average, five dollars the Spanish aroba, if paid in money ; six dollars if paid in knives^ hatchets. Sec, There was a difference in the quality ; that which was most pulpy, or as it was called most fleshy, being the best. Sarsaparilla is liable to be damaged bv insects : and when bundles are offered for sale it is customary to let them fall smartly on the ground, to see whether much dust or insects are driven out by the concussion. The padre was of opinion that persons taking sarsaparilla as a remedy are apt to catch colds, and the limbs to become contracted. He recommended exercise so as to excite perspira- tion after taking it. He also mentioned bathing, but whether as beneficial or injurious I am not certain. There were several lads attached to the padre's establishment, who were at all times ready and willing to obey his directions, but whose principal occupation appeared to be amusing themselves. His table was neither delicately nor superabundantly supplied, but it was always open to those who chose to partake of it. He said he had not much to offer, but was at all times ready to share what he had. We avoided his meals, but when he got anything that was better than common, he generally sent a portion to our quarters. In the coral, at the back of his house, was a tartaruga mud pond. He had poultry, and a variety of parrots, &c. some of which belonged to the lads. These birds are not, as in Europe, tied to sticks or confined to cages, but fly Chap. VIII.J TABITINGA. 235 about the pueblo, and come to the houses to which they belong to be fed, or when they are called. The facility with which the smaller green Brazi- lian parrot (not the paroquet) learns to talk is surprising. If a child cried in the pueblo half a dozen parrots would set up the same strain of lamentation, calling most piteously on their mothers^ and the urchin who commenced the row was com- pelled to be silent to avoid the imitation of these feathered mimics. They could also be humorous as well as doleful. If any of the inhabitants became loudly facetious it was not improbable that the parrots would join chorus, and Mr. Hinde and myself were sometimes at a loss to know whether they were the birds that were imitating, or the persons and animals themselves that we heard. Nor am I by any means certain that these birds are so entirely wanting in capacity or instinct as they are almost proverbially supposed to be: some species are more mischievous than monkeys. Their actions shew a knowledge of the peculiarities of different persons,, and their attachment to each other is remarkable. I brought several to England. Two which I had got at different places became a pair, and seeing that they were so^ I determined not to separate them, and presented them to the Zoological Society ; but being much occupied at the time I neglected to mention the peculiarity that had been noticed : indeed I scarcely thought it necessary, as I was not aware that they would be separated. One 236 TABITINGA. [Chap. VIU. was taken to the Museum^ the other to the Gardens in the park. One died^ although they had both been healthy. I have noticed,, or fancied I noticed, some peculiarities, in shewing a small paroquet^ that had been some time separated from all other parrots^ its own reflection in a mirror : the little animal was at first surprised ; then tried to make acquaintance with the stranger, and called in the same shrill note with which they summon each other in the woods. Finding it could make no nearer approach, it be- came sorrowful, ruffled its feathers, and made a low chirping noise, turning and tossing up its head as if asking for something. But these remarks may be thought too frivolous to be inserted in a journal, or perhaps to be made. The padre had some large land tortoises^ which were considered good to eat^ and even preferred by some people to tartaruga^ or the water tortoises. I cannot say I admired such diet^ but in a country where monkeys and vaca marina are considered delicacies, and snakes and alUgators have been eaten, not to mention human flesh, anything will go down. 1 bought a small monkey at Tabitinga, of an un- common species. It had been domesticated, and was a playmate of the children. The man to whom it belonged, who was an Indian, objected at first to parting with it, but a good price being offered he at last consented. When he was receiving payment, supposing we wanted to make a mess of it, he said it was not large, but it would be good to eat. A > Chap. VIII.] TABITINGA. 237 land tortoise, that stood a yard hicrh, was said to have been sent as a specimen to the emperor. They abound in some parts of the Montana. The day before we left Tabitinga, a fisherman, whom the padre had sent out, returned with a vaca marina that he had harpooned ; and as I had re- peatedly expressed a wish to see one^ and if possible to get a skin preserved, the padre sent to us before he allowed it to be cut up. Its shape, with the ex- ception of the snout, resembled a seal ; the skin that of a whale or porpoise, smooth, of a dark lead colour on the back^ and with a few occasional hairs. The snout, and particularly the lips, were like those of an ox, whence it derives the Spanish name of vaca ma- rina, and Portuguese ^ peixe boy.' The tail was broad, not thick, and horizontal. On each shoulder was a fin joined close to the shoulder, broad, but not thick, and tapering narrower and thinner towards the extremity. The dimensions of this one, which was full grown, but not considered fat, were about ten feet long, and eight round the thickest part of the body ; but as the Indians were not willing to move it, and I agreed with the fisherman to buy the skin, I was not so particular as I otherwise should have been in mea- suring. When cut, on the under part of the body from the head towards the tail, immediately under the skin, a layer of fat covered the ribs and fleshy part of the body ; and this layer being the part from which oil, or, as it is there called, ^ manteiga,' is extracted, was carefully stripped off by the fisherman 238 TABITINGA. [Chap. VIII. and his assistants. In its thickest part, immediately over the intestines, the layer was about two inches in diameter. Under the fat^ the flesh resembled that on the ribs of moderately fat beef, and was also stripped ^ off in one layer. The ribs were then divided, and the intestines taken out. Í do not understand suffi- cient of anatomy to describe each of the organs^ but it appeared to have most of those common to land animals. The lungs were of large size_, extending nearly the whole length on each side of the back^ pro- tected from the intestines by a strong diaphragm. There were two distinct stomachs connected by a small but long intestine, with a much larger intestine leading from the second stomach. On being cut open^ the whole were found to contain grass or some kind of vegetable^ which the animal had lately eaten ; that contained in the first stomach was covered with a thick mucous substance^ whilst in the second sto- mach and larger intestines it was of a yellower colour, and appeared to have undergone a considerable de- gree of digestion. Each of the fins had five long tapering bones, with joints resembhng those of the human hand. The extremities of both the tail and fins were gristle. ^The cutting up this vaca marina had attracted the attention of a variety of animals. The men were the operators ; a number of women and children were in attendance with baskets, whilst several half-starved dogs were on the look out^ and fighting for whatever might fall to their share ; and when any of the refuse Chap. VIII.] TABITINGA. 239 was thrown into the water^ it was instantly snapped at by what we supposed to be alligators. As soon as the skin was cleaned, I wished to have it salted to preserve it, but was overruled by the fisherman and others, who thought they knew more of such matters than I professed to do, and the consequence was, that in attempting to dry it, it became rotten. The skin in its thickest part was more than half an inch thick. In the quarters we had hired, was the skin of an anta or tapir which I bought. It was considerably larger and thicker than the ox hides we had for covering the baggage, although the extremities had been cut off so as to make it a broad oval. 240 CHAPTER IX. JLeave Tabitinga — Meet new commandante — St. Pablo — Difficulty in proceed- ing — Juez — Padre — Ladrone and crew — Maturai — Ic^a. — Deserted by In- dians — Arrangements, squalls, &c. — Diez Guerrero's chacra — Government galatea — Manteiga log — Meet with river craft — Caissara — Hire three In- dians — ^Remarks on Maranon — Arrive at Egas. On Saturday the 8th of February^ the galatea being ready, and having received a passport from the commandante^ we soon embarked,, accompanied by a soldier who, we were informed, was to bring the boat back ; and, I believe^ endeavour to obtain a supply of farinha for the garrison, but who^ we were told, had not anything to do with us. As I did not now consider myself authorized to make such observations as I had endeavoured to make previous to crossing the frontier, I discon- tinued heaving the lead^ still noting the bearings of such reaches as we passed down during daylight. From what had occurred^ and was occurring, namely, the governor's equivocations as to our proceeding, the soldier's attendance, &c., it was evident that a degree of jealousy or distrust existed, although attempted to be disguised ; and it was, therefore, also evident that, whilst we required that sort of attention which, as British subjects, and particularly myself as an officer in His Majesty's N Chap. IX.] NEW COMMANDANTE. • 241 navy_, bearing" letters from the senior officer in the Pacific^ and from the British consuls, we considered it our duty, and were fully determined to require — we must still be cautious not to give any just grounds for our being treated otherwise, and in paying cor- responding- respect and attention to the Brazilian authorities. Towards the evening" we met the new comman- dan te on his way up, and rounded-to to communicate with him. After we had offered him the British consul's letter and the passport^ which he read, although, he said, he did not at that time possess any authority, he assured us that no objection would be made to our proceeding. He said he had been eight months coming up from Para ; and that carrying sail at night he had run foul of a tree, the small river craft he was in was stove, and all in her were near oroino- to the bottom. It would take him him about two days to go from where we met to Tahiti nga. The bearings after leaving Tabiting-a were, S.E.bE. 3 miles. Islands. East. 4 Banks steep. S.E. 3 Main channel. E.N.E. 8 Breadth 1 mile. East. 2 N.E. 4 Dark. We continued dropping* down during the night, but the wind being fresh from the eastward, vve did not get on fast. R 242 ST. PABLO. [Chap. IX. Daylight, Sunday the 10th of January. N.E. 3 miles. Main channel, breadth IJ miles. N.N.E. 2 An island. N.bW. 3 Low sandy bank. N.W.bN. 5 On starboard side. N.E.bN. 4 . North. 4 Islands. N.W.bN. 2 N.E. 8 . Breadth 1 mile. N.bE. 4 • Several islands, three passages. N.E. 4 E.N.E. 6 — Breadth 1^ miles. lit Dark, a strong breeze with rain^ wind from the eastward; made fast to a tree that stood in the water at a short distance from the bank. At mid- night the weather moderated, we proceeded and reached the pueblo of St. Pablo or Olivença at day- light. The pueblo of St. Pablo is situated on a rising ground^, at a short distance from the right bank of the river^ having a wider space clear of wood round it^ than we had seen at any pueblo since leaving Balsa Puerto. Some of the houses are built in the European style, though only one story high ; and there is a plain moderate-sized church. On landing we were informed that the governor was absent, having gone down the river in the only galatea belonging to the government. The person govern- ing in his absence was the juez^ a * branco,' (a > Chap. IX.] ST. PABLO. 243 person possessing- European blood,) whose office was that of a local civil magistrate. We waited on him and presented our passports, requesting to know by what means we could pro- ceed. He assured us he had no means of facili- tating our progress^ and recommended our remaining" quietly for a few days,, until the governor should return. But as we had already been detained ten days at Tabitinga^ we determined not to delay a single hour that could possibly be prevented ; and accordingly set to work making inquiries. The result was that we purchased a galatea from the padre, with an understanding that the juez should provide us Indians at a regular rate of hire ; but as they could not be got that day, and the galatea required some repair and fitting up, we were obliged to give up any idea of proceeding before the follow- ing morning. The juez appeared inclined to be civil, though not much qualified for a magistrate. The padre had served as a soldier during the Peninsular war^ and had, we understood, been an orderly serge ant to Lord Beresford. At the termination of the war he came to Brazil, and was ordained a padre by the bishop of Para. There were two or three other brancos, one of whom had come out as a Portuguese sailor, and was reported to have made some thousands of dollars by trafficking in sarsaparilla. We did not see many Indians, and those we did see did not appear to possess that cheerfulness and freedom of y^ R 2 244 ST. PABLO. [Chap. IX. manner we had been accustomed to observe amongst the Indians of Peru. The pueblo was not clean^ and though superior in size and the style of building of some of its houses to those we had lately seen^ it did not produce an agreeable effect. There were about sixty cattle belonging to the pueblo, but they were not in good condition, and the milk was not taken. In the morning when we wished to start, sufficient Indians could not be mustered. A '^ ladrone " was taken out of the stocks, and brought to us ; and a boy about fourteen years old was to act as helmsman. These, with two more tolerable-looking Indians, were all we could obtain ; and though far from being suf- ficient, we determined to start with them rather than delay. As we were getting into the boat the juez introduced a person whom he described as a gentle- man that was to accompany us. A further explana- tion made known to us that the orders were, in case * emigros ' should come from Spain (meaning Peru), they were to be forwarded under the surveil- lance of some responsible person. But as this did not accord with our ideas, and we had no accom- modation to spare for gentlemen, although we should have been glad of a few more working hands, the juez was informed that we were not what he was pleased to call ^ emigros,' but British subjects ; and as the boat w^as our own, we decidedly objected to any gentlemen passengers. He did not press the point further, and we proceeded. Chap. IX.] INDIANS. 245 Soon after starting^ a squall came on, during which the Indians could not manaofe the boat. When it moderated we got on better, and in the forenoon stopped at a play a to cook. Following up the plan we had adopted, and always found to answer in Peru, we endeavoured, by giving the Indians as much as they chose to eat, and treating them without harsh- ness, to establish confidence. There was, however, a gloominess and unwillingness about these people, widely different from the manner of the Peruvian Indians. The Peruvians, although as one of their padres describes them "^ almost as unciviUsed as their forefathers," were cheerful sort of savages^ and when they became acquainted with us, finding we did not attempt to abuse them, if we went into the woods to shoot they were delighted to go too ; if to look for seeds, to fish, or any thing else, they were always ready. The Laguna Indians were fond of singing, although they knew less about it even than myself. Towards sunset I used occasionally to sing them the Canadian boat-song, when they would give way, keeping time with their paddles, and Mr. Hinde and his canoe would soon be out of sight, if I did not stop singing to heave the lead. These people ap- peared infected with some sullen contagion^ that it was not easy to overcome. The bearings after leaving St. Pablo were — N.E. 3 miles. Breadth li miles. E.N.E. 7 Several islands. N.E. 7 Breeze from Eastward. 246 ICA. - [Chap. IX. E.S.E. 2i miles. Passage between an island East. 1 and the left bank. E.N.E. 2 N.E. 2 ^! E.N.E. 3 East. 1 E.N.E. 3 N.E. 5 Dark. East. 3 Several islands. E.bS. 3 E.bN. 3 Breadth 1| miles. Dry bank in midships, E.N.E. 7 Pueblo of Maturai on the right bank, A squall coming on we brought-to a short distance below the pueblo, and were much annoyed by mus- quitoes. Daylight^ Wednesday^ 13th of February. N.E. 4 miles. Breadth 1^ miles. Main channel. Wood floating down. N.N.E, 5 Sandy island in midships. North. 3 N.N.W. 6 Breadth 1 mile. N.N.E. 6 H There was in this part a wide opening through the left bank^ which we understood from the Indians to be the junction of the river Iça ; but a short distance below we entered a small river leading to the pueblo of Iça^ and were then told that the one on which the pueblo stood was the river Ica^ and that it descended from the neighbourhood of Quito. Afterwards men- Chap. IX.J ICA. 247 tioning this river to a person at the Barra Rio Negro, who appeared to possess more general information relative to the country than any other person we met with, we were assured that the Iça river was nothing more than an igarapé, and that it did not extend to Quito. Our object in going to Iça was, if possible, to hire more Indians, and increase our stock of provisions. We found there the governor of St. Pablo, who said he was himself lookino- out for Indians to take a government galatea down to the Rio Negro, and had soldiers out endeavouring to get hold of some. The pueblo consisted of only a few ranchos, in which two or three brancos were living, and finding we could neither get Indians nor provisions, excepting a piece of dried vaca marina, we did not remain long. We saw some alligators in this igarapé ; one which was lying on the surface of the water, off the point where the igarapé joins the river, must, I think, have been near twenty feet long. Proceeding down the Maraiion, we had a moderate breeze against us, and the Indians not exerting them- selves we got on but slowly. The bearing of the river here was n.n.e. and s.s.w. We continued drifting during' the night, Mr. Hinde keeping a look- out during the first part, and myself during' the mid- dle. I noted some of the bearings, but there being no other light than that afforded by the stars, the bearings are written over each other in my note-book, and are scarcely legible. I can make out-— 248 DESERTED BY [Chap. IX. North. N.N.E. E.N.E. East. N.E.bN. N.bW. N.N.E. E.N.E. N.E. E.N.E. About four in the morning'^ the weather being fine^ without any wind^ I roused the Indians who had been sleeping-, to go on. In about half an hour they pro- bably thought that both Mr. Hinde and myself were asleep, and the boat was got quietly towards the bank. Though th'ed and lying down, for I believe my look- out had commenced before the usual time of a middle watch, I was not asleep, and seeing some branches of trees above us^ I called to the boy who was steer- ing, who knew little of his business, and who I sup- posed was at fault, to take care. Whilst I was speaking the boat struck the bank; 1 jumped up, and in the same instant two of the men forward leapt on shore ; the ^ ladrone ' followed ; but the boat having paid-ofF on striking the bank, he went over his head in the water; the boy jumped from the apalmacaya. This was a serious business, but the manner in which it was performed was so ludicrous as almost to be laughable. If the intention had been to rob us, it was disappointed ; and in their hurry to be off, on finding they were discovered, the ladrone and his friends left some of their own things behind. When they had all reached the bank, knowing we could not get back to them against the stream, they began to strike a light for making a fire, partly, perhaps, to dry those who were wet, and partly to keep off wild animals ; they also used all the Portuguese they were masters of in addressing us : ^' Adeos^ camarada. Chap. IX.] THE INDIANS. 249 adeos," — farewell, or_, heaven speed you^ comrades^ heaven speed you. Mr. Hinde was violently angry, whilst I, with perhaps greater absurdity, could not avoid laughing at the ludicrous performance of this, to us, somewhat tragic drama. We were drifting quietly down the stream, the weather calm and line, and the stars still shining as the morning dawned. There was not much time to make a long oration to our late ' camaradas, ' but we returned their ' adeos ' in a tone which we endeavoured should convey a meaning that words could not then express. We were afterwards asked, by some brancos, why we did not fire on them ; but this would have been a useless and unjustifiable piece of cruelty; in- deed, it was rather those who had occasioned such habits, than the unfortunate savages themselves, who were blameable. Our first operation on being left to ourselves was to find some means of managing the boat. One broken paddle had been left, which we lashed to a stout stick as a loom or shaft, and fixed a piece of plank to the tent pole as a blade; with these we found we could direct the boat in the stream, but could not pull her very fast. In the forenoon we stopped to cook, an operation in which we soon became tolerably expert, although we at first took rather more time than the Indians. However, we stopped but once a- day, always in the forenoon, and in order that we might not lose more time than was absolutely necessary, when the mess 250 URUBUS. [Chap. IX. was cooked^ we took the pot into the boat^ paddled well away from the bank, and drifted with the stream whilst eating-. There are scarcely any circumstances under which men can be placed that do not afford some source of amusement, provided they be not accompanied by self-condemnation or disgrace. We used at these times to be amused by witnessing- the surprise and disappointment of the gallinázas or uru- bus, a species of crow vultures that followed us, or rather which we found the whole way across from the Pacific to the Atlantic, excepting on the higher ranges of the Cordilleras, and within these limits that appear to be more particularly appropriated to the condor. As soon as a fire is lighted on the banks of the Maranon^ the urubus, knowing either by the ap- pearance of the smoke, or by scent, that cooking is going forward, collect, and take their stations on neighbouring trees, waiting somewhat impatiently for the refuse, or whatever else may fall to their share. Had we made our meals on shore the urubus would not have got much ; but by taking the pot into the boat, their expectations were annihilated, and it was amusing to see them pounce down the instant we shoved off, and hop about looking at the few burning sticks with evident symptoms of disappointment. Our own birds, araras, parrots, (&c. occasioned us some trouble, as it was difficult to prevent their get- ting into trees whilst we were employed cooking; and at other times, when we got into situations where we were obliged to exert ourselves to keep the boat ^ Chap. IX.] SQUALL. 251 clear of trees^ &c., the araras,, which are the large scarlet macaws, would take possession of the apal- macaya, and capsize our things as mischievously as monkeys, knowing by our manner whether we could or could not come to them. The beaks of these birds are so strong that they can with ease break the leg and wing bones of a fowl, which they do to get at the marrow ; and in the course of a few hours they will bite a stout stake into pieces. After cooking the first day, we proceeded, and passed through an island passage, in which were nu- merous white porpoises, of such size that they rather resembled fre^h-water grampuses. The night being fine, we continued drifting, Mr. Hinde and myself keeping watch and watch. The work was hard, and our time too much occupied for me to make many remarks, but Mr. Hinde having been accus- tomed to boats at Liverpool, we got on better than mere landsmen probably would have done, and I now fully experienced the advantages of Mr. Hinde's company, as his exertions were never wanting. About noon on the second day, we were proceed- ing with the current down the middle of a broad reach, when we were suddenly overtaken by a heavy squall, which drove us on shore, under a high steep bank or cliff of red clay, and continued so long that a considerable swell got up, and beat so heavily against the bank, that all our exertions were required to prevent the boat getting broadside on, and being knocked to pieces. As soon as the wind moderated, 252 SAWYERS. [Chap. IX. which was in about an hour^ we again proceeded_, the rain continuing until near sunset, when it cleared_, and we had a fine evening until about ten o'clock ; it then again threatened, and the bank past which we were ^ drifting^ being much broken by the strength of the current, and several trees standing at intervals at a short distance from the bank, with the stream rushing rapidly past them, and which it would not have been safe to have got foul of, we brought-to in the first favourable place we could find^ in order to get a little rest. Similar trees to those I have here mentioned have, I understand, in other places, and by other persons, been very aptly termed ^^ sawyers," in parts where the bank had been torn away by the force of the cur- rent^ as was occasionally the case whilst we were passing. One or more tall palm trees sometimes stood at a few yards' distance from what was then the bank of the river_, and the strength of the current bearing them down to a point at which their own elasticity became superior^ and the water had less power over them^ from the manner in which they had yielded, they recoiled, or sprung up again^ in a manner almost similar to that in which a bow recoils from the discharge of an arrow. It does not require much nautical skill to judge what kind of effect would have been produced by them on our already frail boat, in the event of getting foul. In consequence of these '' sawyers,," and from the experience we had gained during the preceding day's Chap. IX.] THE MARANON. 253 squall, we made such arrangements as we were able between ourselves, in case any accident should destroy the boat, or what would have been almost worse^ in case she should break adrift with only one of us on board, which_, from the painters not being- good;, and the occasional difficulty of making fast to the bank, might possibly have been the case, if not guarded against. We had two small hatchets, which I had brought from Lima, and we determined never to go out of the boat without them. Should we be wrecked we must endeavour to make a raft, and the arms and provisions would be the first thing to see after. Should the boat break adrift, with only one in her, which we must not be negligent in guarding against, it would not be possible for the one on board to work against the stream ; and unless the bank could be regained almost immediately, so as to form a junction through the wood, the one on shore must endeavour to make a raft with his hatchet, and the other to reach some inhabited district, whence he might return with assistance ; but as it never became necessary to carry these arrangements further than precaution^ they perhaps ought not to be mentioned. At daylight we again started, and with some diffi- culty pulled across the river, to an island near the right bank, where we stopped to cook. The day was unusually fine, though warm, and proceeding, we exerted ourselves to keep the right bank, on which we had understood that the next pueblo named Fonte Boa stood, and which we hoped soon to reach. Pass- 254 ALLIGATORS. [Chap. IX. ing over a shallow^ near the point of an island, which is probably a pi ay a during the dry season, we saw several tartarugas laying on the surface of the water, but they were too shy for us to get near them. Open- ing a narrow passage, between the island and the right bank_, we observed the shed of a chacra above us, and immediately supposed that the chacra be- longed to Fonte Boa. It was not possible for us, with the poor substi- tutes we had for oars, to pull the boat up against the stream, and not a human being was then or had been in sight since the Indians left us. We had no resource, and were obliged to proceed : fortunately, part of the dried vaca marina we had got at Iça, and some farinha_, still remained. We employed the intervals during this afternoon when the boat did not require tending, in fitting two more powerful sweeps, out of long stout pieces of bamboo, with boards fixed at the ends as blades, and which when finished we had the satisfaction to find answered, giving us more power over the boat than we had before. In a large shallow bight of the river in which there was little current, we saw several alligators,, and passed near some of them ; they were not troublesome, and appeared not to regard our approach, scarcely moving on the surface of the water, and not even noticing' being fired at when not hit. The night was pitch dark, but without much wind. We continued drifting^ wishing somewhat anxiously, but scarcely hoping^ that we might see lights from Chap. IX.] DRIFTING AT NIGHT. 255 some pueblo_, or hear the watch dogs-bark. Despon- dency would have been useless, and we said little to each other as we sat on different thwarts, with the sweeps in our hands pulling- or tending the boat ; still our situation was becoming somewhat critical, inasmuch as our stock of provisions was getting low. Moreover, if we had passed Fonte Boa we might pass Egas, and then where were we to go to ? The accounts we had received of the river were mostly erroneous. It was not without diííiculty we could get any tolerable account of one station from another that was next to it, and the maps I had with me were not to be relied on. We looked out and listened attentively ; but the noise of beetles, the hoarse croakings of innumerable frogs, by the dis- tinctness or faintness of whose voices we judged our distance from the bank when drifting, and, occa- sionally, the loud mournful kind of crow of the night bird, which on a former occasion Mr. Hinde had pronounced to be game, and which from his great inclination for sporting I had named * Mr. Hinde's friend,' were all that we heard. The note of this bird would not, at any time, tend to elevate the spirits ; and at that moment Mr. Hinde would have had my free consent to annihilate the whole species. We at one time saw a light, apparently about the height which the light of a house would be, and about a third or a quarter of a mile above us on the river. We at first thought it might be a fire-fly but it was too large and steady ; then a star, although 256 DIEZ GUERRERO'S [Chap. IX. few if any others were visible ; átill it was too large and distinct_, and did not alter its elevation : we then supposed it might be some kind of ^ ignis fatuus^,' but I am not avi^are what it was ; our attention was called to manage the boat_, and we lost sight of it. Before midnight we brought-to to sleep. The following forenoon^ whilst in another squally we saw two Indians crossing the river in a small canoe. We hailed them^ but they took no notice, and paddled away from us. We now beg"an to think that some chacra or pueblo must be near, and shortly after saw a chacra on the opposite side of the river to that we had been driven to in the squall. We pulled hard to fetch it, and got hold of the bank a little below the landing- place. An Indian who heard us hail^ shoved off in a small canoe and came to us. From him we learnt that we had passed Fonte Boa that mornings and that it could not be seen, as it stood on the bank of a creek. In answer to our inquiries whether we should be able to hire Indians^ he said we had better come and speak to a white man^ who lived at the chacra. Accordingly, with the assistance of two Indians, we got the galatea up to the landing-place^ and leaving her in charge of an old negro^ went up to the chacra. The owner's name was Antonio Diez Guerrero. He received us civilly, but said we should not be able to hire Indians or even a pilot ; adding that Egas would be difficult to find, as it was some distance up another river. He then told us Chap. IX.] CHACRA. 257 he was going to send a tree hollowed ont^ and filled with manteiga, made from tartarnga's eggs^ down the river the next day, a small galatea would attend it ; and, if we chose, we could keep company. In the mean time such accommodation as his chacra afforded was at our service. As we were somewhat fagged we were glad to accept the latter part of his offer, but determined to make further inquiries re- specting the manteiga log. We now found that we had by some means lost a day, this being Sunday the 17th of February, instead of (as we had sup- posed) Saturday the 16th. One point with us was to purchase a fresh supply of provisions : much information relative to the coun- try was not to be had. The owner of the chacra in- formed us that he had bought it only a few months before. He was then cutting down trees to clear the ground, and intended to clear a certain quantity every year. The principal produce of the chacra at that time was mandioca for making farinha. We in- quired by what process farinha was prepared, and were shown some roots of mandioca that were peeled, and lying with water in a trough made from part of an old canoe. We understood that they were to re- main in this manner for two or three days, after which they would be grated on rasps made by fixing small sharp pebbles on boards ; and the pulp was then to be put into long basket bags, made of some kind of straw or rushes, and which, being loose in their tex- ture, and pliable, are reduced in length so as to keep s 258 FARINHA, [Chap. IX. them expanded whilst the pulp is putting in ; and are afterwards stretched by hanging them up^ and applying weights to beckets at the lower ends. As much of the juice as possible being thus pressed out^ it is finally dried on round clay stoves or kilns, with fires under them, and is then called farinha. Its appearance is much like that of coarse brown tapioca, v/hich is^ I believe, made by a different pro- cess from the finer particles of a similar kind of root. There was a large heap of farinha lying like aheap of corn in the house of the chacra. The manner of eating it is quite as remarkable as its preparation. A small heap was placed for each person on the table, and was then taken up between the fingers and thumb, in the same manner that the Hindoos take up rice and curry, only with the right hand in- stead of the left. The head was thrown upwards, the mouth stretched, and the farinha partly dropped and partly pitched into it. This performance was neither elegant in its appearance, nor, to a stranger, easy in its accomplishment. I did not attempt it, but preferred eating out of the palm of my left hand, at which the brancos laughed, thinking it awkward, perhaps barbarous. We were told that there was a Spanish priest at Fonte Boa, w^ho had left Peru in consequence of the revolution. He was then endeavouring to make a boat to work on the river by machinery. Early on Monday morning a galatea arrived from iChap. IX.] MANTEIGON LOG. 259 the Barra of the Rio Negro^ belonging" to a man who was trafficking, and who had some soldiers as pas- sengers on their way up to Tabitinga. Shortly after, a large galatea, that was well manned, passed down the river. This was said to be the go- vernment boat from Iça_, and we hailed her; but from the rapidity with which she passed, we did not appear to be heard. There was no alternative but to proceed by ourselves^, or to keep company with the manteiga log^ ; and the people who were to attend the log being ready^ we shoved off together. Almost immediately afterwards^ we again saw the fi^overnment boat starting- from the riofht bank where they had brought-to to cook. We again hailed her, and were answered by a person who appeared to be a soldier in charge; but after allowing us to come tolerably near^, they gave way and left us. Our in- tention had been to request they would take ns in tow until we could reach some place where Indians were to be hired. In the afternoon^ the manteiga log got separated both from the other galatea and ourselves,, and we had some trouble to find it again ; after which^ the night being fine, we all made fast^ and drifted down toge- ther. At daylight in the mornings the Indians took a small canoe they had with them, and went to fish^ leaving a sickly mestiço^ one Indian, and a woman^ to take care of the manteiga log and their galatea. We now found that we should be more troubled than benefited by these people, and determined on part- S2 260 ÍIIVER CRAFT. [Chap. IX. ing company, and again try to work our own way, which we accordingly did. After having cooked^ we pulled_, or rather paddled (for we had bought paddles at the chacra) amongst innumerable islands towards the right bank of the river_, which we resolved to keep. The forenoon was clear and hot^ but just as we were passing the last of the islands a squall overtook us, and we were again driven on shore. It was difficult_, in this part of the Maranon, to know what to expect from the weather. Had we brought-to for every appearance of a squall, we should have got on but slowly,, whilst they were sometimes heavy. When the squall was over^ we reached the right bank, and continued to drift along it until mid- night, when we brought-to to sleep. Early in the morning we again started, and about eight o'clock spoke to two brancos who were fishing in a small canoe. One of them was owner of a river craft that was a short distance below. He said he was going to Spain, meaning Peru, to trade ; and on learning that we had come from thence, asked if dollars were not very plentiful? They had seen the government galatea, which they said must then be near Casara, a pueblo about six miles nearer to us than Egas. We afterwards passed the river craft, and whilst cooking saw a small canoe with two Indians going' to fish. During the forenoon, observing that some trunks of trees, which were floating down, went faster than ourselves, and that they continued to keep the right Chap. IX.] THE JURUA. 261 bank of the river without grounding, we got hold of three^ and made fast to them. Towards sunset we passed the mouth of a river coming- from the south- ward. Its waters were clear^ though dark coloured, and kept themselves distinct from those of the Ma- ranon for a considerable distance. This^ in all pro- bability^ was the Jurua. We passed another river craft going upwards^, and a small canoe^ with two In* dians^ who probably belonged to the river craft_, and had been fishing. The bank of the Maranon in this part was high and abrupt^ forming broken cliffs of red clay. The evening also being fine, the scenery was more strik- ing than any we had seen on the river, the continued flatness of the country^ every where covered with wood, and the magnitude of the river itself^ J3ro- ducing rather the sameness of a sea voyage than the striking boldness that we had anticipated. After dark the clouds threatening squalls^ we cast off the trees, and brought-to. At daylight we again proceeded ; and in the course of the forenoon saw two small canoes, the Indians in which told us we were not far from Casara, and might, perhaps^ reach it that evening. They also told us it was up an igarapé, and could scarcely be seen from the river. We therefore kept close in with the bank, in order that we might not miss it^ and did not make fast to logs as we had done the day before. Late in the afternoon we entered a wide reach, at the further end of which^ by means of 262 . CASARA, [Chap. IX; a glass I had brought, we saw a break in the bank, with a hill clear of trees behind it. This we sup" posed to be Casara, and pushed on with our paddles, endeavouring to reach it before we were overtaken by a heavy squall that was coming. The current was rapid, but the squall still more so^ and the wind blowing obliquely across the river^ we had to exert ourselves to keep clear of the bank, when^ as we were approaching the hill^ we saw a tree standing in the water away from the bank. The stream was rushing past it^ and had we struck, with the swell that had got up_, we should in all probability have been damaged. We were, therefore, obliged to take the best shelter we could find in a small bight_, or break of the bank. The squall continued for some time^ and it rained heavily until midnight, obliging us to bail frequently. At daybreak we proceeded. The weather was iine_, and we found Casara situated on the further part of the rising ground that we had noticed_, and on the left side of an igarapé leading to a lake. On landing we were informed that the juez was absent at Egas ; but after making numerous inquiries explaining who we were^ and that the Indians we got at St. Pablo had deserted us, we succeeded in hiring* three^ who^ we were told, would take us to Egas by noon. As soon as they were ready we again proceeded. From the little we saw of Casara_, or as it is sometimes called Alvarens, it appeared to consist of a long row of houses and ranchos^ built > Chap. IX.] INDIAN WOjVIEN. 263 alonga facing-^ and at the distance of about thirty yards from tlie bank of the igarapé. It is inhabited by more Indians than we generally saw collected after entering the Brazilian territory^ and by some brancos. As we arrived in the mornings the women^ by whom the chacras are principally culti- vated^ were starting in canoes to go to their daily labour^ handling their paddles with as much dexterity and nearly as much strength as men. At the entrance of the igarapé we met a galatea managed by several women and children ; and as it is not un- common_,from this part of the Maranon downwards^ to see women managing canoes^ and as they may take weapons to defend themselves from any kind of offen- sive animals they might meet^ it was, probably^ some sights of this kind that gave rise to the stories of Amazons, propagated by Orellana and his followers. It is said that alligators will occasionally attack canoes managed by women^ and still more readily those in which there are children : dogs will attract alligators. In a branco's house^ where Mr. Hinde w^ent to make inquiries, whilst I remained to look after the boat, he saw a woman without clothing of any description ; she belonged^ I believe,, to the Origone tribe^ and was most probably a slave. From the manner in which our time was occupied^ after the Indians left us^ until ariiving at Casara, I cannot give any particular account of the bear- ings of the river. During the first day and night 264 THE MARANON. tC^hap. IX. the reaches ran principally to the eastward^ from about E.N.E. to E.S.E., aftcrwards more to the north- ward^ and latterly to the southward. The right bank, which we endeavoured to keep on account of the pueblos being situated upon it, was in several parts high and abrupt, forming cliffs of red clay. From St. Pablo the river increased considerably in breadth, with numerous islands, and, after leaving Diez Guerrero's chacra, below Fonte Boa, we seldom saw both banks of the river at the same time, from the islands that intervened. In passing amongst these islands, which we were occasionally obliged to do, in consequence of being blown away from the right bank by squalls, or set off by a turn of the current, there did not appear to be the slightest vestige of human beings ; and we were afterwards told that these islands vary frequently both in their dimensions and number, the freshes of the river sweeping away some, and depositing their wreck so as to unite others. It is remarkable that some of the plants common to the main land are not to be found on the islands, whilst, I think, palms are more numerous on the islands than the main land. This may, perhaps, be accounted for in the latter case, by the palm nuts floating down with the stream, and being deposited on the islands. In the former it is not improbable that the variation which the current occasions amongst the islands, destroying some, and forming others, may prevent those plants which are to be found on the main land, but not on the islands, from growing, or at least from arriving at maturity. ^ Chap. IX.] THE MARANON. 265 What appeared to me one of the most extraordi- nary features of the Maranon, and which may tend to convey an idea of the vast body of water running* down_, was, that in pulhng across the river^ and even across the broader passages, we observed three cur- rents, one down each bank^ and a third towards mid channel, the water between them not appearing to run so fast ; and of the three currents^ that running down the bank towards which the last reach set was generally the most rapid. There were frequent eddies setting up the river close in to the bank^ but they did not continue far. The current was generally the most rapid where the bank was most broken. The earth frequently fell in whilst we were passings and in some parts the trees that had fallen were lying in masses ; whilst in others^ trees whose roots had a firmer hold stood in the water^ the bank having been washed away from them ; and as the current rushed rapidly past_, it required attention^ when drifting^ not to get drawn in and entangled. The rate of the current was variable. In some parts where the bank was much broken^ it must have been six or seven miles per hour, in others not three ; and occasionally almost still water, on an average about four miles an hour. But I should imagine that the rate of the current generally must depend on the season of the year^ and the state of the rains. The channels of the Maranon are said to vary in a similar manner, and from the same causes, as the islands. Playas are formed and disappear frequently. ^66 THE MARANON. [Chap IX. The country on the banks is, with a few slight de- viations^ one continued levels or rather an inclined plain, descending imperceptibly towards the Atlantic^ But though flat it is not swampy, the banks being several feet above the level of the river. It is covered with wood_, amongst which are some large trees. After leaving Casara^ we had a fresh breeze up the river, and the three Indians were unable to keep the boat's head towards it until we got into a narrow windino' channel that was sheltered. Instead of reaching Egas by noon, we did not arrive at the nearest entrance of the river TefFe, on which Egas is situated^ until four in the afternoon^ and only landed at sunset ; the distance from the mouth of the Teffe to the villa of Egas being about a league and a half. The com- mandante was absent at the pueblo of Noguera on the opposite bank of the TefFe, but we were received by a Portugueso merchant^ named Cauper^ who spoke English, and who showed us much attention^, pro- curing us quarters in an unoccupied house belonging to the commandante. In consequence of the commandante 's absence^ we could not, if we had wished^ have got Indians imme- diately to proceed ; but the latter part of our pas- sage having been fagging, we required rest. During our stay we became in some measure acquainted with the country^ and had the system explained to us which the brancos in this part of Brazil still practice towards the Indians^ although^ according to their own account^ it is contrary to a Chap. IXJ THE BRANCOS. 267 decree of the emperor, which declares all his Indian subjects to be free. In order that this system may be understood^ it will be necessary for me to give some account of the brancos themselves, and I sin- cerely wish that I may be able to make myself intel- ligible. Under the denomination of brancos are nicluded all those who either are_, or by descent are connected with_, Europeans ; and it unfortunately happens that^ with very few exceptions,, those Europeans who have hitherto settled on the banks of the Maranon have been of the lowest and most ignorant, if not the worst class of society. Formerly^ I believe^ convicts were sent there^ and latterly a few Portuguese sailors have got up and commenced trafficking. But whether convicts or settlers^ their station^ on getting up the Maranon^ was immediately changed from the lowest class of society to the lords and masters of the coun- try ; and as in their latter capacity, to use their own expression^ they have ^ na braços,' no hands, to re- medy this deficiency, they deemed, and still do deem it necessary to make use of the Indians. In order to which, we were told that there was formerly a law authorizing the brancos to catch the Indians and make slaves of them for ten years. At the end of that period they were to be considered civilized, and according to this law for civilization, they were to be no longer slaves ; but whether the brancos allowed the Indians this advantage, the only means I have of judging is^ that I do not believe either the past or 268 THE BRANCOS. [Chap. IX. present race of brancos have paid much attention to any laws^, except such as may have accorded with their own ideas of personal advantage. The real state of the case^ I believe^ is_, that there have been a variety of laws and regulations respecting the In- dians^ differing as to their spirit from the widest ex- treme of atrocious and unjustifiable cruelty towards these original possessors of the country^ to others comparatively just and humane, according to the times in which they were made ; but I chose to repeat the version I received in the country, in order that I may not be accused of giving a false glare to what has been, and still is, too glaring. However_, whe- ther formerly in accordance with, or latterly in oppo- sition to laws, and the decrees of government, the effect produced evidently has been^ that the Indians, finding themselves exposed to being made slaves by the brancos^ have deserted the banks of the Maranon, where, from the facility with which the means of sup- porting life by catching fish and tartaruga would be obtained, and the occasional communications which such employment would lead to, I should imagine the Indians would naturally be the most numerous and the least barbarous. Up various tributary streams where they are still supposed to exist in considerable numbers, and where, from the want of other provi- sions^ they are said to be living upon each other. To prove not only the injustice but the impolicy of such a system_, it is only necessary to compare the Indians of Brazil with those of Peru^ where a widely Chap. IX.] THE BRANCOS. • 269 different and much more humane system has evi- dently been adopted. Notwithstanding' the statement of the brancos^ that, according- to a decree of the emperor^ all Bra- zilian Indians are free^ and 'which was confirmed by the assurance of Mr. Hesketh, his majesty's vice- consul at Para_, '^ that the law authorizing the catch- ing- of Indians has been repealed^" at the time we were at Egas we were told that ''^two brancos were then away in the woods trying their fortune;'* and the manner of catching the Indians was described as follows : — A branco, supposing himself to be in want of In- dians^ either for his own use^ or to exchange for goods (according to the branco version of the old law, the Indians were not allow^ed to be sold;, but we were afterwards told by the cabo of the river craft in which we went passengers from the Rio Negro^ that we might have bought a boy to attend upon us for about ten milreis,, between two and three sovereigns Eng- lish), endeavours to join with one or more brancos having similar objects in view ; and a license is got '' to enter," that is, togo up the river Japurá, which runs to the n.w., having its principal mouth abreast of the river Teffe, on the opposite side the Maraiion, and which is at present considered the most favoura- ble district for catching Indians. Where the license is obtained we did not learn. Amongst the prepara- tions considered necessary are^, an Indian who knows the woods^ to act as pilots arms^ and in case the 270 THE BRANCOS. [Chap. IX. brancos should not be successful in catching, goods to purchase Indians from petty chiefs who may have any to sell. All being ready, they proceed in canoes near to the scene of action fixed upon. They then n| leave the canoes or galateas, and proceed silently and cautiously through the woods^ looking out for any thing like an Indian's rancho. Should they find one, they hide themselves^, watch the motions of the unfortunate inmates, and take a favourable oppor- tunity to rush upon them. When a sohtary Indian is met with in the woods, and got hold of, he or she is compelled by threats to show where the rest of their relations are_, and the result generally is, the whole are taken. After being captured, they are chained to logs^ and taken down to the boats or canoes. So great is the dread of white men amongst these Indians^ who are said to fight desperately if opposed to each other ; that if, as is sometimes the case^ a hundred or more of them are seen dancinsf at nig-ht round a fire^ seven or eight brancos, by taking different stations and firing a few shots, may seize as many as they can get hold of, the others only thinking' of escape. , If the Indians get information of brancos being on any of these hunting expeditions, they dig holes in the paths and diiferent parts of the woods^ and fix strong poisoned spears in them, after which slight rotten sticks are placed across, and covered with leaves^ earthy &c._, so that it requires much caution Chap. IX.] THE BRANCOS. 271 and some experience to avoid them. Should a person fall on one of these spears, it is said to occa- sion almost instantaneous death. In case the brancos are not fortunate in catchino- Indians^ the next plan is to purchase them from such petty chiefs as have taken prisoners and keep them in corals^, or high uncovered enclosures to kill and eat_, or to exchange for goods. Incredible as these accounts may appear in the present generally advanced stage of civilization^ and in such a country as England, we had them too repeatedly confirmed to doubt them. When^ at Egas, I expressed any opinion, that some of the accounts were figurative^ the next person we hap- pened to meet was generally referred to_, when the answer would be a smile at our incredulity^ with some further particulars ; such as^ they would shew us people living in the villa who had ate human flesh ; describing the manner of cookings &c. A branco told us^ that his father-in-law having gone into the woods on one of these hunting expeditions^ came to the habitation of one of these people who had prisoners to sell_, when a mess was offered to him, at the bottom of which he found a human thumb. It was said, that the Indians consider the palm of a white man's hand a delicacy,, and it was a joke amongst the brancos at Egas^ that I being whiter than most people who had been there, should be more esteemed to cook by the Indians. Indeed, although we never saw human flesh eaten^ what we 272 THE BRANCOS. [Chap. IX. did see was sufficient to convince us that it was far from improbable that such was the case. A remarkable pointy and which tended to show that it is from necessity these Indians are cannibals,, we were told, that although the prisoners are kept in corals^ the owners do not treat them with cruelty. When a human being is wanted to cook^ the owner takes his pucuna^ and having fixed upon his object blows a poisoned arrow ; the victim falls^ and is dragged out without the others regarding it- — cus- tom and necessity having -led them to consider such practices not incorrect. The vicar-general of the Rio Negro told us an anecdote of a girl^ whom a branco offered to purchase of one of these owners^ but who chose rather to stay with her relations and be eaten when her turn came^ than save her life as the branco's slave. This account embraces subjects on which I am aware that various opinions may exists and I am also aware^ that in publishing it I may incur the criticism^ perhaps the condemnation of persons whose favour- able opinion I would attempt much to obtain ; never- theless I feel that if I do publish at all^ it is my duty to repeat such accounts as were related to us with apparent correctness^ and to endeavour to convey such impressions as we ourselves received. It is not improbable I may have failed in so doing, for I do not lay claim to much literary ability ; still the anticipa- tion of failure must not deter me in the relation, any more than a similar anticipation repeatedly expressed N Chap. IX.] THE TAPIR. . 273 to me at the commencement did^ the undertaking- the expedition ; nor do I hesitate to declare that anxious as I am to merit and to obtain distinction^ there is no part of my journal in which I would so willing-ly incur censure^ as in stating* the case of the unfortunate Indians : inasmuch as I feel that there are few rewards could produce a degree of satisfac- tion equal to that I should experience in knowing that I had contributed to the melioration of these unfortunate people, and of the country through which we travelled. We had an account given us of several animals common in the woods and rivers about Egas. They were_, the tapir, there called the anta, and which is the same animal with the sachywaka, dante, or gran beastia of Peru, and of which we had heard much both before and since embarking. Two kinds were described to us ; one having the tips of its ears white_, and which is the largest : when full grown the body of this animal equals that of an ox in size, but its legs are short. It has four toes, three before and one behind on its fore-feet, and only three on its hinder-feet. When young it is striped and spotted like a deer ; but as it grows older the spots disappear, and it becomes entirely of a dusky bay colour. The head is long, narrow, and curved in front ; the eyes are small, and of a dim blue colour. The ears resemble those of an ox rather than any other animal, but are shorter and broader in pro- portion. It has a small trunk, or proboscis, ubout ^*74 . TIGRES. • [Chap. IX." four inches long*^ which it uses somewhat in the' same manner as the elephant ; and it has a short small tail also like that of the elephant. It feeds upon herbs and the branches of trees^ and goes much into the water^, walking* along, or perhaps rather across the bottoms of rivers. It possesses great strength,, particularly in the fore part of the body ; but is harmless except when attacked. It is said to pass directly through the thickets without following any previous track. We were told that when the tapir is attacked by a tigre^ the tigre generally springs upon the tapir's back^ when the latter rushes into the woods and endeavours to kill the assailant by dashing him against some large tree^ Although strongly and apparently heavily made^ the tapir is said to be fleet. ' Tigres^ or as they are here^ perhaps^ more cor- rectly called^ ^ onca/ are numerous and of various kinds, from the large black animal^ which is said to grow to near the size of an ox^ down to one which is reported to be little larger than the common cat. During the dry season the tigres^ or oncas^ are said to come down to the playas and hunt for tarta- ruga in the manner practised by men. If several tartaruga are on the playa, the onca endeavours to turn all on their backs before he commences eating any. After which he makes a meal and goes away^ leaving the remainder as provision for future occasions. We were repeatedly told that the alligator is so I I Ghap. IX.] ALLIGATORS. 275 much afraid of tlie tigre, that be allows himself to be hauled out of the water,, and a meal made off his body without offering the least resistance^ or even attempting to move. The larger species of onca will attack men^ and having once tasted human flesh and bloody return to hunt for more. Alligators are large and numerous^ but they frequent lakes and bights of the river in which the water is still, rather than the stream. We have heard of and seen cases where arms have been lost, and occasionally of persons being destroyed by alli- gators ; but they are not here considered so danger- ous as it is usual to suppose them, and apparently less so on the lower than the higher parts of the river. At Para Mr. Campbell, a British merchant, told me tliat he had been over at Marajó during the dry season, when a number of alligators were stuck in the mud of a small lake, of which the water had been exhausted, and an Indian would go in and place a ^ lazo ' over any one that was pointed out. Also that the Indians would go in and kill the alligators with their paddles. The alligator knew what was coming, would open his mouth to defend himself, and would struggle to get away, but the Indian quietly gave him a moderate stroke on the back of the neck, the alligator threw up his head, raised his back, and drew in his neck with a convul- sive motion, and died almost immediately. We had an account given us of an enormous spe- cies of serpent, that infest lakes, but it was too mar- X 2 276 ENORMOUS SERPENT. [Chap. IX. vellous to credit even in this extraordinary country. We were told that this serpent takes up its abode in lakes^ which are numerous in this part of South America, and which generally communicate by ^ narrow passages with the Maranon and its tribu- taries. It was described as being of such magnitude^, that the lake or lakes it is known to inhabit are deserted ; and that the danger of meeting with it is so great^, that canoemen do not enter strange lakes without sounding a horn or making some noise^ to ascertain whether the serpent be there. If it is^ it answers the canoemen's noise by a hollow sound_, and the former withdraw. Birds will not fly over the lake this serpent inhabits. The padre's name was not wanting' to support this marvellous relation. We were told that the padre going into the Mon- tana met with a tracks which from the marks on the ground, leaves being swept away_, slime^ &c. on the branches of trees_, was evidently that of a serpent, which must have been as much in diameter as a man's hip or waist is in height from the ground. I believe there are serpents in Brazil^ and perhaps more particularly in the Captaincy of Para_, that are much superior in dimensions to the boa constrictor. I was told by Mr. Campbell at Para, that an ac- quaintance of his being over at Marajó during the rainy season, and riding up towards a small bridge that was partly under water^ he observed something apparently moving upon it. Pulling up he saw part of the body of an enormous serpent, that was cross- Chap. IX.] THE OTTER. 277 ing*^ neither the head or tail of which were at that moment visible, being hid in the Montana or bushes on each side of the bridge. Mr. Campbell is too good an authority to doubt, and various circum- stances tend to shew that not only the vegetation of the districts bordering on the Maranon and its tributaries is naturally incomparably rich, but that reptiles^ especially serpents^ are excessively numerous and enormous. Still with all due deference to the padre's acuteness of observation and our informer's veracity^ I do not believe the history of the demon of the lakes, nor is it my wish to repeat such relations^ inasmuch as they may not be productive of beneficial effects with regard to other parts of my journal, the statements of which are_, 1 trusty in general_, better founded ; but I am told that this account ought to be inserted, and therefore do insert it out of respect to the advice of my director^ but without vouching in the slightest degree for its correctness. There are numerous frogs or toads at Egas that are said to be deadly poisonous. Some Indians who came down the river TefFe, and had been in the habit of eating frogs, poisoned themselves by eating' some of these^ and several died. One morning we saw an otter there called ^ lontra * swimmino' in the river before the town. It was dark- coloured^ and about the size of an English terrier. We were told that there are three species of lontra. One which live and go about in pairs ; another^ that go in bands,, and when the bands meet with the spe- 278 MUTÚNS. • [Chap. IX. cies that go in pairs, they kill and eat them. The third species are smaller^ and are yellow under the neck. They live mostly in rivers. - The monkeys we saw were in general small^ re- sembling the lower order of animals, such as squir- rels^ weazels^ &c. I had one which^ from the length of its fur, appeared to be the size of a cat, whilst its body was not larger than that of a squirrel : its paws were large^ but it was not mischievous ; and it was considered a curiosity at Para_, where it died. . I got several birds through Mr. Cauper ; amongst them were three different kinds of mutuns. The mutun, which is called peury in Peru, is a large slen- der made bird^ blacky excepting underneath the hinder part of the body^ which is white in the cock, and brown in the hen; both cocks and hens have long straight tails and crests of curled feathers which they raise at pleasure. The eyes are of a dark co- lour^ large and full. The beak is red, excepting the immediate point, which is black. This bird is as large as a turkey-hen, roosts in the highest trees, and has a plaintive note. There is another kind that is speckled, but I did not get or see any of them. The rnutun asu is larger and stronger than the mutun. The feathers of its crest are not curled; the end of its tail is white, and the beak is larger, raised on the top, with the tip white. The ouru mutun, or golden mutun, is a native of the river Japurá, and derives its name from the bril- liancy of its phimage, particularly about the head, Chap. IX.] THE CUJUBI. 279 where its feathers are of a bright gold colour. It is much the shape, but not so large as the mutun asu ; and it has a crest of broad straight feathers. . The jacu is the colour of a hen-pheasant, but larger, and resembles a turkey-hen in shape. It has a crest of straight feathers, which^ however^ it seldom raises, and a red skin clear of feathers under the neck^ simi- lar to that of a turkey-hen. This bird, though an inhabitant of the woods, soon becomes so tame as to Jbe almost troublesome^ running before the person who usually feeds or notices it, opening its mouthy and making a most sorrowful noise; it will also fly lip to be fed. The cujubi is a beautiful bird, about the size, iDut much smarter than the jacu; its colour is a whitish grey, with a blue skin clear of feathers under the neck, and a straight crest. . All these birds have fine full clear eyes, with pleas- ing though plaintive notes. They live much in trees, and always endeavour to get to the highest branches. They are all good to eat. I had at one time thirtcv-u black mutuns, or, as they are called in England, curassow birds, besides specimens of the others here described; and I was desirous to get them alive to England, in order that (if it were permitted) they might be turned out as game in his Majesty's park at Windsor, where it is not improbable that they would have bred, and would ; in some measure have accorded with the magnificence of the grounds ; but during the time we were passen- 280 THE PAVÃO. [Chap. IX, gers in a river craft from the Rio Negro, they became sickly, and when we were prisoners^ they were starved. Only two of the mutnns reached England, and they were both cocks ; I therefore presented them to the Zoological Society. The youug mutiin^ or curassow bird_, resembles a young pheasant^ but on a superior scale. The pavao^ or peacock, was another bird that I got, but why it has received the name does not ap- pear, unless it is, that when frightened^ which is not unfrequently the case^ it raises its featherS;, and gives a sharp^ though not loud whistle. It is about the size of a snipe, although its feathers make it appear larger. Its colour is a light speckled gray_, not bril- liant; its neck long and slender; its eyes full, with a beak resembling that of a snipe. It lived principally upon flies^ and was quick but easy in its motion when catching them. A fly seldom escaped when the pa- vão fixed its aim. I also got two parrots^, one called the large green parrot of Brazil, which nearly equals the arara in size^ and is scarce and valued in the country, although its size and scarcity appear to be about the principal reasons for valuing it. The other^ which was also green, was not much larger than an English blackbird^ but finer^ or perhaps I should say not so stoutly made as parrots in general. Its head, in particular, was long, rather than round. This bird's sagacity and distinct manner of speaking were surprising ; it was not mischievous, and rather avoided the other parrots. It was got from an Indian w^oman. ^ Chap. IX.] FARAWAY. 281 and had been taught to call itself ^ Faraway,' which was not usual, as the Indians generally let their par- rots fly about the pueblo, and learn what they chose, whilst the brancos teach theirs to repeat a long story in Portuguese. I inquired what was the meaning of the word ^ Faraway/ and was told that it was an Indian term, signifying a native of *^Para.* The meaning of the term '^ Fara' I have not hitherto been able to ascertain ; but wide and strangfe as the transition from a parrot to such a subject may appear, I was much struck by this term ^ Faraway,' and after some reflection^ I am inclined to think^ that if the meaning of the word * para ' were known, it would be found to convey some idea more naturally connected with, and therefore more appropriately applied to, the immense body of water which is at present in- conveniently, and, in some respects, absurdly termed Marafion, Amazons, Orellana, and Solimoes. That the Indian term * para' conveyed some signification connected with large currents of fresh water, can scarcely be doubted; inasmuch as several compound names have been formed from it, and applied to them. To the southward, there are the Farana and the Para- guay, whilst the largest river of the world was the Fara, the country on its banks being named after the river, I am obliged to call it, although the idea usually conveyed by the term river does not, in my opinion, present to the mind this immense current of fresh water. Numerous flocks of water-fowl, consisting of va- 282 medijCinal herbs. ÍGhapvm * rious kinds of ducks and small geese, frequent, the playas during the dry season, when the river is low, and tartaruga and fish are plentiful. They are seldom seen during the rainy season^ when, I believe,, they go to lakes in the interior. . I received an account of three Indian remedies from Mr. Cauper. They were camará^ a herb used as a remedy for the dropsy^ by boiUng it, and drink- ing the tea^ and also by applying it externally in the jnanner of a vapour bath. A man and a woman had been cured of the dropsy by this herb. It grew plentifully about Egas, and I got some bundles of it, intending to bring them to England^ but they were lost. It is, I believe, to be found in other parts of Brazil, and is frequently called cruzeiro^- from the leaves branching out at right angles from the stem in the form of a cross. Sipoquera^ a root used for fever and ague^ acting as an emetic. The mode of taking it is, by scraping the root until as many scrapings are obtained as can be taken up by the fingers and thumb of one hand.; these are put into three or four cups' measure of cold water^ mixed well by the hand, strained through a cloth^ and left in the air for a night to settle. In the ;inorning there is a sediment resembling tapioca. It is again strained, or the water poured off, warmed a little^ and drank^ when an immediate effect is pro- .duced, Frigase da India — red beans with black spots- considered as a remedy for the bloody flux. Three €hap, IX.3 'EGAS. 283 of the beans are recbiced to powder, by gratings and drank in a cup of warm water. Numerous and various medicinal plants are said to abound in the woods near Egas, some of which are probably superior, and would be of greater value, than those here mentioned^ but they are little known, excepting by the Indians, who use some of them as occasion requires. Mr. Cauper expressed his inten- tion to see after_, and endeavour to obtain specimens for examination, but we could not at that time obtain much information» respecting them. The bark of a tree was used at Egas, in lieu of paper, for making segars ; that we saw, and of which I got a specimen, was dry, and it peeled into shreds or layers like very thin paper. The bark is cut and stript from the tree in pieces of about twenty inches long and four broad. One end is beat, when green j to make the layers separate^ which they will not do by beating when dry, although they peel off easily after the layer is got hold of. The tree from which this bark is got was afterwards pointed out to us by the Indians who went with us to the Rio Negro. They called it Tevare, or Tamare. The principal productions of the district of Egas at present are cotton, cocoa, coffee, sugar, and man* dioca for making farinha. Sarsaparilla grows wild, and we understood was also cultivated, but the culti- vations are not large or numerous. Fish and tarta- ruga are got from the river ; the former is dried, and a thick kind of oil called manteiga is m.ade from the eggs of the latter* 284 EGAS. [Chap. IX. The villa of Egas is built on a clear, sandy point, that forms part of the east bank of a basin made by the river TefFe^ and a broad creek runs nearly at right angles through the bank towards the east ; the ground shelves down to^ or rises gradually from, the point to the site of the houses^ some of which are built in the European style^ and white-washed, but are only one story in height ; the others are superior to ranchos^ and almost every building has a coral attached to it. The nearest buildings to the point are the comman- dante's house,which has a wood^i balustrade and veranda in front of it^ and the church ; their distance from the extreme point may be from a hundred and fifty to two hundred yards, and about half that dis- tance from the bank of the basin. The bank, after it has risen gradually from the point, becomes steep and broken^, with a sandy beach below it. There are about four hundred inhabitants at Egas^ several of whom are brancos ; and it is but just to state that I think they were as good as others we met with, although I do not hesitate to repeat that their mode of hunting and enslaving the Indians is barba- rous^ unjust_, and must prove injurious to themselves. Mr. Cauper spoke well of the commandante, say- ing, that he did not attempt to monopolize the little commerce that existed^ as some comraandantes did, but that he had injured himself by becqming respon- sible for his friends' or relations' debts. The In- dians who are free have chacras in the Montaiia, where they live more than in the villa. About two hundred cattle belonged to the villa. N Chap. IX.] NOGUEYRA. 285 On the opposite side of the basin to Egas, and about a league and a half distant^ is the pueblo of Nogueyra^ which we were told was, and which ap- peared to be^ of nearly equal size. A commerce is carried on between these places and Para, by means of river craft of from twenty to forty tons' burden, which we were told could make about two voyages in the year. The principal owners are Mr. Cauper and the com mandante. There was an imperial chacra near Egas, from which I do not think the emperor's treasury derived much benefit_, but of which the Indians complained, as many persons were compelled to work in it. It had one bad eíFect_, inasmuch as it afforded an exam- ple in some measure apparently opposed to the em- peror's edicts and laws in favour of the Indians. Whilst waiting for the commandante, we went occasionally to Mr. Cauper's house^, who showed us much attention. His style of living was superior to that we had lately been accustomed to ; still he had not bread, and his animal diet was tartaruga. He sometimes got biscuits from Para, and distributed them amongst his friends as rarities. If any one was taken ill they would come to beg for a biscuit^ in the virtues of which they had much faith. In the even- ings the principal people collected outside the houses to smoke, and talk, or listen to music produced from inferior guitars. Amongst the brancos was an extra- ordinary old man, with white hair_, who had at one time possessed considerable property^ with numerous v 286 EGAS. . [Chap. IX. slaves^ but who bad lost nearly all. When any one condoled or expressed sorrow for his losses, he said they had no occasion to be sorry ; when he possessed property and slaves he was troubled to take care of ^ the one^ and afraid lest the others should run away ; but now that he had neither^ he had nothing to do but to go to bed at night and sleep^ and get up again without care. Mr. Cauper complained much of want of energy and attention to business amongst his neighbours. On Sunday, I went with Mr. Cauper to call on the padre, who had come from Nogueyra to perform mass. Many questions were asked respecting our passage, particularly over the Andes, the accounts of those stupendous mountains and rocks appearing almost incredible to persons who lived in a level country, where scarcely a stone was to be found. After leaving the padre we went to some other houses. One belonged to a person who was, T be-, lieve, a kind of carpenter, had a chacra, and possessed several houses in the villa, being one of the richest members of the community. He was a stout, elderly man ; and the advantage he derived from his wealth was, that both he and his wife were drunk, and not a little noisy, the time being about noon on Sunday. The women of Egas appear to manage not only the household affairs, but the chacras ; they also make pots, and paint cuyas-calibashes, or strong gourds that grow on trees, and are cut in two to make bowls or basins. They are first covered with a black or Chap. IX.] EGAS. 287 blue varnish _, and afterwards curiously arid ingeniously painted with figures in different colours. This is an original Indian invention^ although they will now copy European patterns when given to them. They suppose the varnish makes the water cooler when- drinking. It certainly does prevent the cuya from warming the water, probably by making it a more ready conductor of caloric^ as the cuya is washed_, or, when in a boat^ dipped into the river before drinking, and more readily acquires the temperature of the water. They also manufacture hammocks, of which some are wove entirely of cotton ; others are partly straW;, and partly cotton. Painting cuyas^ making pucunas, bows and arrows, spears and straw hammocks, and pots, appear to have been the prin- cipal and most general of the original Indian arts. Mr. Cauper had an idea of building a house on a superior scale to the one in which he lived, or to any then in Egas, and wished for our opinion as to the plan he should adopt. In particular, he wanted to know what would prevent the decay of the timbers that he should be obliged to use, in consequence of being unable to obtain stone. He said that the ends of the timbers which were in the ground soon decayed from the excessive moisture. On Tuesday the commandante returned, when we called upon him to present our passports, and request he would endeavour to get us Indians to proceed with. He received us civilly, and after reading our passport, said he would endeavour to get five In- dians for us to proceed on the following morning-. ; 288 EGAS. [Chap. IX. In the evening the commandante returned our call ; and whilst he was with us^ some women who were going- past drunk came to the door, and began making a noise_, but they were sent off. Shortly after- > wards an old Indian came much in the same state. The commandante had then left us^ and I was not in the house,, but the old man informed Mr. Hinde that he had been ordered to go with us to the Rio Negro^ and he had come to say he would go with us to the world's end. This person was one of the oldest in- habitants of the villa, and had^ in his own opinion, made considerable progress towards civilization. His reasons for going with us to the world's end were, that it was right, and his duty so to do. He understood we were officers of the king of England, and the king of England ruled a little in Brazil. Mr. Hinde said he was much obliged to him for his good intentions, but he did not think the king of England ruled in Brazil. The old Indian persisted that he did, for the king of Portugal, or the emperor^ who to him was the same person, ruled in Brazil^ ^^ and the king of Portugal and the king of England are friends ; therefore^ when the king of Portugal is going to do any thing, he says to the king of England, ^ I think I shall do such a thing,' and the king of England says, ^ I think so too, or I think otherwise;' therefore the king of England rules a little in Brazil." This was certainly logic^ but the old man's immediate ob- ject was to get some spirits, which were given to him, and he went away satisfied both with Mr. Hinde and himself. 289 CHAPTER X. Leave Egas, and proceed down the Marauon — Lake of Peixe Cuna — River Coary — Castanhas, wild cocoa, poison tree, palms, dyes, &c. — Cudaja— - Mouth of the Puru — Mura island — Rio Negro — City of the Barra — Colonel Commandante, Colonel Zany, Dezembargador, and Vicar General Barcellos — Buildings at the Ban-a — Embark in river craft. On Wednesday the Indians were ready_, and after receiving letters from the commandante and Mr. Cauper for a Colonel Zany, at the Barra Rio Negro,, we embarked^ and proceeded. The waters of the TefFe are clear and deep, but dark coloured. Almost immediately below Egas the basin contracts, and the river discharges itself by two mouths into the Maranon. We had entered by the western mouthy but went out through the eastern, which is the broadest. After re-entering the Maranon, we kept the right bank, down the stream of which much small wood was floating. There were here numerous islands. In the evening we passed and spoke two river craft going upwards. The weather being fine^ we continued pulling and drifting during the night. The bearings were^ E.bS., S.E.bE.. S,E., S,E.bS. u 290 LAKE OF [Chap.X. On Thursday we still kept the right bank, when the bearings were, E.S.E., S.E., E.bS., East. About noon, ^we passed a galatea, with a branco and some Indians going to collect wild cocoa. The branco^ who was a Portuguese, told us that his father- in-law had a chacra on a lake, to which an igarapé led through the right bank_, a little below where we then were^ and that he had got two antas which we understood to be tapirs. As we had not at that time seen any of these animals, although we had heard much of them, we determined on going to see the antas, with the lake and the chacra. The name of the lake is Peixe Cuna: its waters are clear but dark coloured^ and abound with fish and alligators. It is about a league in lengthy and half a league broad^ and communicates with the Ma- ranon by an igarapé about three-quarters of a mile long, and sixty or seventy yards broad. The banks of the lake are steep and high. As we were pulling into the lake_, the galatea with the branco overtook us_, and the owner invited us to see his chacra. We landed for a few minutes, but having to cross the lake to his father-in-law's chacra^ we did not wish to lose time. This chacra had been lately made, and the branco had the general com- plaint, want of hands. He had come out from Por- tugal as a sailor, and on getting up the Maranon, was appointed superintendent of the playas. He had been up the Japurá once to catch Indians, and in- Chap. X.] PEIXE CUNA. 291 tended going- again. He informed us that his object was to make money, and return to Portugal. In crossing the lake, two small parrots fell over- board, when one of them was immediately taken down, we supposed, by an alligator. The old man, whose chacra we were going to visit, met us at the landing-place, and walked with us to his house. Understanding that we wished to see his antas, he despatched two lads, his sons, to fetch them. After waiting a short time, we heard a great shouting, and almost immediately two black cattle came galloping past. The old man assured us that these were the only antas he had, and we were given to understand that anta tapira there signified an ox. Although disappointed in seeing the animals we had expected, our time was not altogether lost, as we had a favourable opportuity of seeing a Brazilian chacra. The old man was stout and healthy ; he informed us that he was originally a native of Egas, and had come to the lake about three years before. He had culti- vated mandioca, cotton, coffee, tobacco, and latterly indigo, which he intended to manufacture. He was then building a house on rather a large scale, having a store at one end, a platform for drying cotton, cocoa^ and coffee at the other, and a thatched veranda in front. He gave a favourable account of the situa- tion, that it was healthy, and not much troubled by musquitoes, or other insects ; which the appearance of himself and his family tended to confirm. As soon as the Indians had finished cooking, we u 2 292 TELE MARANÓN. [Chap.X. again started : but before getting out of the lake a heavy squall came on^ and we brought-to until it was past, after which we got into the Maranon^ and con- tinued drifting during' the night. On Friday the bearings were east, e.s.e.^ east, E.N.E., some of the reaches being twelve or fourteen miles long. About four in the afternoon we passed what appeared to us to be the mouth of some river entering the Maranon from the northward. The Indians called it Cupuya. There were numerous islands^, and the Maranon was of such magnitude that we could scarcely distinguish its banks. Its appearance was rather that of a sea than a river. At sunset_, a reach bearing west, a little northerly, extended to the horizon, having two small islands in mid channel. The breadth was here from a league and a half to two leagues ; but I do not know whether both the banks we saw were the main land, or one of them an island. A squall coming on we pulled for shelter in the river Coary, which discharges itself into the Maranon^ coming from the southward. We reached it and brought-to. The Indians gave us to understand that there was a chacra on the right bank of the Coary, not far above us, and a pueblo called Alvel^ situated on a lake, or open part of the river, two days' journey upwards. Whilst stopping to cook on Friday, and going into the wood to collect dry sticks for fuel, we found some castanhas, the nuts commonly exported from the Brazils to England. They were contained in shells ^ Chap.X.] THE MARANON. 293 about the size of a nine pound shot^ and as hard and thick as an old cocoa nut. The shell was covered with a husk^ which_, being* taken off, the shell was ribbed like that of an English walnut. The tree from which they had fallen equalled a large elm in its girth, but was nearly twice the height ; it was straight, and had branches only at the top. We also found some wild cocoa^ but the fruit was not generally ripe. The trees grew much in the same manner as hazels^ but were the size of apple trees. The fruit is produced directly from the stem, and the thickest part of the branches : unripe it is of a green colour^ but when ripe of a deep yellow, and it resembles a small oval melon_, or a large thick cucumber. Each nut is covered with a sweety white, pulpy substance,, and they form layers of, I think, five nuts in each layer in the body of the fruit. Towards midnight the weather cleared, and we again drifted down the Maranon. On Saturday, leaving the right bank, we proceeded principally amongst islands, some of which were so large that it was not easy to distinguish them from the main land. The principal reaches, which were not unfrequently bounded by the horizon, and had islands in mid channel^ run nearly east and west. Of the breadth of the river we could not judge on account of the islands. At sunset we were in a bight. The reach we had come down bore west with the tops of some of the highest trees visible in the horizon^ the reach we 294 THE MARANON. [Chap. X. were going down about n.e.Bn. This we supposed to have been the whole body of the river. But shortly afterwards we opened the point of an island, when the reach we had come down proved to be only an island passage. We could then count six different passages abreast, and yet the Indians said we did not see the right bank of the river, a large island shutting it from us. The centre of the river bounded by the horizon now bore w.s.w._, and the reach we were going down n.e., ten or twelve miles Jong. We afterwards went n.n.e. for some time. Whilst cooking this day, I cut a piece of bark from a tree that the Indians pointed out as a fataf poison. The tree was fourteen feet and a half in circumference, straight, and of great height. The bark was nearly an inch thick, and, on being cut through, a large quantity of milky substance was dis- charged. The Indians had such a dislike to this tree that they objected to coming near the bark that was cut off. There were several varieties of palms, the nuts of some of which were large, and had four distinct partitions with a kernel in each. A straight soga that grew up and down the poison-tree measured upwards of eighteen inches in circumference. We also met with some trees the bark of which was red, and described by the Indians as a dye, and others that had a slight scent like that of storax. At daylight, on Sunday morning, we passed a bight into^which the lower boca of the Japurá discharges itself. The Indians called this boca, Cudaja ; and said Chap. X.] THE MARANON. 295 that some savages named Muras lived upon its banks. When near this boca it did not appear to be a mile in breadth,, but looking up it from a distance it ap- peared to exceed a mile. The bearings of the reaches were — at daylight the reach we had come down bore w.s.vv.^ ten or twelve miles^ that we were going down e.s.e.^ bounded by the horizon. The river afterwards turned to N.E.b e., and continued for about thirty miles. Its visible breadth^ including islands, nearly three leagues. Towards sunset we got into a reach bearing N.E.bN., extending to the horizon. We this day kept the left bank. Drifting during the night we passed the mouth of the river Puru^ coming from the south- ward. On Monday at day-light the reaches bore s.w. b w. ten miles, and East, to the horizon. At nine a. m. East^ a little Southerly to the horizon, several islands. At noon the reach we were going down bore N.E. In this reach we had a squall that raised a swell which a vessel of any class would have felt ; it was not a short bubble^ but a long swell^ and the Indians finding it difficult to get the galatea ahead^ we endeavoured to make fast to a large tree that was drifting down^ but our painter not being long^ the swell would not allow us to tow. At sun-set the reaches bore s.w.bw., that we were going down n.n.e. to the horizon. At day-light on Tuesday morning, the reach we 296 THE MARANON. [Chap. X. had come down w. s.w. and continued e.n.e. to the horizon. About eight o'clock we saw two chacras on the left bank^ and brought to at the lower, which was a coffee chacra ; the owner was ^ not present,, but his son walked round with us whilst the Indians were cooking. The chacra had been made about fifteen years^ and produced from two hundred to two hundred and fifty Portuguese arobas of thirty-two pounds each. The' season for gathering had just commenced^ and would continue for two months^ the berries being gathered as they ripen. Guava trees were planted amongst the coffee shrubs as a shade. At noon the reach still continued e.n.e. having varied slightly as we passed amongst islands. About four o'clock we passed an island to which the Indians gave the name of Mura Island, from some of that tribe having once lived upon it, and who are said to have made a practice of looking out for and attacking boats passing up or down the river. The bearing of the river continued e.n.e. until sun-set^ but shortly afterwards turned to the North- ward, and about eight o'clock we entered the river Negro. We passed close to the Western pointy kept that bank for a short distance^ and then pulled across the river^ and as the night was fine and the current not strong, we continued paddling against it until about ten o'clock, when we brought-to the Chap. X.] THE BARRA. ' 297 left (the right going- up) bank of the river. In the morning the Indians begged to stop and cook before reaching the Barra, although we had not far to go ; we accordingly stopped in a cove^ the beach of which was white sand^ with several small rocks pointing upwards, that appeared to be the termina- tion of vertical strata, and to contain much iron. As far as I am capable of judging, it is the quantity of iron that gives the dark colour to the waters of the Rio Negro. The river itself has the appearance of black marble : where the water is shallow^ it is brown and clear, and when taken up in small quan- tities it is transparent and sparkling. The Indians pointed out two particular trees in this cove; the bark of one they described as a remedy for wounds, by boiling and washing with it. That of the other called Tavare or Tamare^ was what we had seen used at Egas for making segas. We reached the city of the Barra about ten o'clock in the forenoon^ and on landing inquired for the Colonel's house, to present our passports and deliver the letters we had brought from Egas. Whilst we were making inquiries an European^ who was looking from an upper window of a large house^ asked ^'^ Which Colonel we wanted ? " we had only heard of one^ and seeing that the letters we had brought, and which I held in my hand, were directed to Colonel Zany, we said '^ Colonel Zany:'* we were then told that was his house,, and a person was sent to conduct us in — the European who 298 THE BARRA. {Chap. X. had spoke proving to be the Colonel's brother-in- law. We were received graciously, the Colonel apologizing for the confused state of his house, which was undergoing alterations and repairs. The letters were delivered^, but on presenting our passport with the British Consul's letter_, we were told that the Colonel Commandante would examine them, and a person was sent to shew us the way to his house. In the mean time^ the Commandante had been informed of our arrival^ and was prepared to receive us ; we found him a short elderly man^ dressed in a blue uniform jacket, much braided and ornamented with gold lace^ over which were gold chains_, with a cocked hat, sabre, white gloves^ Sec. He was surrounded by what appeared to us a nu- merous staffs who we were not sorry to see^ as they bespoke a degree of civilization widely different from^ and superior to what we had lately been accustomed. We afterwards learnt that they were a Lieutenant,, who acted as secretary, and some officers belonging to the garrison. We were received with much military politeness^ and after offering us seats^ the Colonel Com- mandante read our passport, with the British Con- sul's letter, and asked a variety of questions ; we were then told that the passport we had brought from the frontier would be detained, and another given us in lieu^ which would take us down to Para. A copy of the British Consul's letter was also wished for, to which I did not object. Quarters Chap. X.] RIO NEGRO. 299 were given to us^ and we were invited to dine with the Colonel Commandante^ whose name was Joa- quin Felipe. Accordingly^ after seeing our baggage deposited in our quaiters^ we returned. The colonel's dinner was not only more plentiful but better served than any we had lately sat down to^ and we got the first bread we had seen for two months. During dinner the colonel informed us he had travelled much. Having been at Falmouth and Liverpool^ and at Bombay, he spoke much of his friends the English at Para ; and after dinner drank the health of his majesty the king of England, an ally of the emperor of Brazil. In return I drunk the health of the emperor of Brazil^, an ally of his majesty the king of England^ after which 'we all rose from table. I was not at the time aware that it is not considered etiquette to drink any toast after the emperor's health. As the things I had brought from Lima for the Indians,, were now no longer current in payment^ I gave what remained^ consisting of some papers of fish-hooks, needles, cascabels, scissors, beads, &c. &c. to the old Indian who had acted as our helms- man, and who being lame could not well obtain a livehhood, except by fishing during the season when fish is plentiful. They were valuable commodities to him^ and he expressed his thanks for them with much earnestness ; but he and the rest of the crew had scarcely left the Barra when on re-examining our baggage we discovered that the jar of poison I had 300 THE BARRA. [Chap. X. got at Tabitinga had been stolen^, and that the ' ouru muttu_,' for which I had paid two and a half dollars at Egas^ was missing. I would not willingly suppose the old helmsman was concerned in this pilfering ; but we had a man in the boat, who like the ^ ladrone ' of St. Pablo^ had been sent down to us under an escort, who could not therefore be supposed a desirable character_, even in that country, and who would, probably, not have objected to the theft_, or even to a repetition of the desertion scene, had an opportunity offered. Just as we had made the discovery. Colonel Zany called upon us, and learning my annoyance at having lost the jar of poison, very obligingly offered me one which he had. Colonel Zany was Commandant of Militias of the Rio Negro ; he could speak a little English, and the account he gave us of himself was, that he was by birth an Italian ; that in consequence of one of Napoleon's decrees, he was taken when young for a conscript, but not liking the French service, he made his escape, and got on board H.M. S. Thalia ; in her he went to Lisbon, and thence came out to Brazil. Coming up the Maranon, he had entered the Brazilian service, and was promoted to the rank of Colonel for having accompanied Dr. Mar- tins, the German naturalist, up the river Japurá. As Commandant of Militias of the Comarca of the Rio Negro, his authority extended to the frontier. He had married the daughter of the late Governor Chap. X.] RIO NEGRO. 301 of the Comarca_, and one of his own daughters was married to the Ouvidor then just appointed to be Dezembargador of Maranham. He introduced us to his son-in-law^ whom we found to be a person possessed of considerable information. The Colonel Commandante, Colonel Zany, the Dezembargador, and the Vicar-General of the Comarca were the persons of whom we saw most whilst at the Barra. Colonel Zany was occupied, according to directions from the Emperor, in making collections of specimens for the Museum at Rio Janiero. He had got various kinds of wood, some birds and animals, a few minerals, dyes, the spices of the country, and some feather dresses of most brilliant colours. Through his assistance I obtained specimens of the following articles : — In- digo of good quality ; cinnamon, thick and coarse ; Pucherim or South American nutmeg, longer and larger than that of India ; Cumara or Tonquin beans, large and fine, value 6,720 reis, or about thirty or thirty-five shillings, according to the state of exchange, for twenty-one pounds. Carajura, a vermilion dye said to be prepared from the leaves of a tree in the same manner as indigo, price 5,320 reis for eight pounds : I also got a roll of what was there considered particularly fine tobacco, and which the Indians decorated with feathers. The Colonel presented me with a bird which he called ^"^Gal de Serra," brought from the moun- tainous district towards the source of the Rio Negro, 302 THE BARRA. [Chap.X. and the plumage of which was more brilliant than those usually exhibited in England. In return for these and other civilities, I made him a present of my double-barrelled gun, for which we supposed > there would be no further immediate necessity. In shewing us two very splendid feather dresses that were intended for the emperor, and which were more brilliant than, any other feathers I ever saw^ the colonel asked whether his majesty the king of England would confer any rank or honour on a person who was to present him with such dresses. He was told honours were not so easily obtained ; but he had better claims on the emperor's liberality, as he was active in his operations, although too much interested, in some respects, not to be occasionally selfish in the application of his authority. He had stores for merchandise, and three hundred Indians were employed on his estate. It could not favour- ably be told where these Indians came from. He had an odd fancy for making ornamental borders for dresses or hammocks of feathers, stitched so as to represent flowers ; whilst he would have led us to suppose that they were made by Indians. In consequence of the trouble we had experienced with Indians since entering Brazil, we determined^ if possible, to prevent any repetition^ by taking a passage in one of the river crafty which we were informed went down occasionally to Para. Colonel Zany had offered that if we would apply to him for whatever we might require^ he would endeavour Chap. X.] RIO NEGRO. 303 to obtain it for us at a just price, as his local know- ledge and influence would probably enable him to do so better than ourselves. One of our first appli- cations, therefore,, was respecting a passage in the vessel that was likely to start soonest for Para. The colonel sent for the master or ^ cabo' of a river craft that was then waiting for a license to proceed, andj in the mean time, told us that he was a French- man who had come out to Para as a smith, had got up the Maranon, and married the natural daughter of a branco, who was owner of the river crafty and who had made him master, or, as they are there called^ * cabo.' We were at first doubtful whether a smith would understand much about the manage- ment even of a river craft ; but the colonel assured us there would be a pilots who would manage her. When the cabo came^ he said that both the vessel's hold and part of what he called her cabin were filled with cargo, but that if we chose to hire the remaining part he should be glad to let it. We went down^ and finding that there was a space of about eight feet long, six broad^ and on an average four and a half high, we thought it better to take it^ and as we supposed put an end to further trouble ; and accordingly Colonel Zany agreed that we were to pay thirty milreas. On Friday^ the Colonel Commandante called upon us^ and we also received a visit from Colonel Zany. On Saturday evening we accompanied Colonel Zany to call on the Vicar-General ; when, in speak- ing of the Indians^ the Vicar- General said that 304 THE BARRA. [Chap. X. they lived in the woods without any kind of religion, excepting some belief in a future state of existence. They had neither laws nor government ; and their occupations were little superior to those common to ^| animals^ their principal object being to obtain food. ; Some of them were cannibals_, and he related anec- dotes corresponding with those we had heard at Egas. On Sunday we dined with the Ouvidor or Dezem- bargador, and met some of the principal inhabitants^ amongst whom were Colonel Zany, the Vicar-Ge- neral, and a Notary to the Government. The head of the table was occupied by a little girl^ a child of about three years of age, whilst as a compliment I was placed at the opposite end. The lady of the house did not make her appearance ; and we found it was a custom at the Barra to shut the principal women up^ much in the same manner as the Ma- hometans. During our stay at the Barra, we only saw three first class women, and them by accident. When we afterwards remarked the strangeness of such a custom amongst Christians, it was turned off by saying they were at the haciendas in the neigh- bourhood, superintending the gathering of coffee and cocoa, which was becoming ripe. As the cabo of the river craft said he was anxious to proceed, and had nothing to detain him but the license, we inquired why he did not get it; and were informed that all river craft passing up or down the Maranon are obliged to remain at the Chap. X.] RIO NEGRO. 305 Barra until a communication takes place with a villa called Barcellos^ ten days' journey up the Rio Negro. We were told that until the year one thousand eight hundred and seven, this villa of Barcellos had been the capital of the Comarca,, and at that time the Barra consisted of the fort^ on which several guns were mounted to defend the entrance of the river^ with only a few houses for the Commandante and soldiers^ and some Indian huts. But at the period mentioned, its situation being considered more desirable than that of Barcellos^ the dif- ferent authorities^ with the exception of the Senate, were removed there, but with the Senate, strange as such an arrangement appears, the power of grant- ing licenses to river craft passing up or down the Maranon still remained ; the consequence was that vessels were sometimes detained upwards of twenty days, until a communication took place. Dating the commencement of the Barra as a city from the year 1807, and taking into consideration the checks occasioned by a want of communication, and the revolutionary disturbances in the province of Para, it has increased and improved in an extra- ordinary manner, and perhaps affords one of the best proofs of what might be effected in this part of Brazil. We were told that when we were at the Barra, the population, when collected, was supposed to amount to three thousand ; but the whole were seldom seen, excepting at the festivals of St. Juan, Easter, and Christmas. There are several good X 306 THE BARRA. [Chap X. houses^ some two stories high^ but they are built in different streets, with inferior houses near them rather than connected, so as to form any principal part of the city. Colonel Zany's house^ which is one of the > principal^ if not the largest, had been built of wood. He was then taking out such parts as were decayed^ and filling the vacant places with stone. The work- men were Indians whom, with the exception of one or two that acted as chief artificers,, he had got hold of for the occasion^ and who^ of course, knew little about the business. The walls were not perpendi- cular^ and I should imagine not particularly safe. The door or doors of the principal entrance were out of proportion to the house^ being too large. We were told that they had belonged to a church that had been pulled down. There is a large good-looking hospital, which we understood had not been long finished. The present church is a plain building facing towards the river ; there is an open space in its fronts with the quartel nearly opposite^ behind which^ and a little lower down the river, is the fort. In the same line with the churchy but facing the opposite way, so as to form part of another street, is an imperial cotton manufac- tory ; and a large shed, standing on a hill directly in front of Colonel Zany's house, is an earthenware manufactory belonging to the emperor. We under- stood there was also an imperial grass rope manu- factory, but as it was not in the city, we did not see it. The streets are not paved^ and have most of Chap. X.] RIO NEGRO. 307 them an unfinished appearance. The site of the city is divided by some small creeks^ which contain water in the rainy season_, but are probably dry at other times. There is a straight wooden bridge^ supported by single piles^, over the principal creek ; and ano- ther similar bridge, over a creek towards the hospital_, was building whilst we were there. The site of the Barra has probably been chosen on account of the entrance to the principal creek, which has sufficient water for the river craft and small ' schooners that occasionally come up from Para^ and acts as a port for them to lay in whilst waiting for licenses from Barcellos. But according to its present state of improvement^ and what it may hereafter arrive at_, as a centre of communication to this part of South America, by means of the Marauon, Rio Negro, and various large tributaries, I do not think it is the best that might have been found, not only as it is uneven for building upon, and out of the way for vessels passing up and down the Maraiion, from which it is between two and three leagues distant ; but it does not possess that command of the two rivers which _, if placed at the point of their junction^ it would possess. There did not appear to be any regular market at the Barra, but the inhabitants supplied themselves with provisions as the canoes happened to come in from the neighbouring chacras. Most of the princi- pal inhabitants possess haciendas, from which they not only obtain provisions, but articles of commerce, X2 308 THE BARRA. [Chap. X. such as coffee^ cocoa, and sarsaparilla. Colonel Zany told us that his hacienda was equal in size to the pueblo of Casara^ and he had many Indians at work upon it. ^ The garrison of the Barra consisted of about a hundred and eighty regular troops, and a patrol^ of a non-commissioned officer and a file of men^ were con- tinually passing through the streets. Besides the Barra and Barcellos^ we were told that there are numerous pueblos on the banks of the Rio Negro, and its tributary the Rio Branco ; the latter descending from the n.e. Some of these pueblos are considerable,, exceeding those on the Maranon. The population of the districts of the Rio Negro and Rio Branco is said to amount to between two and three hundred thousand souls ; but the greater part are Indians^ living wild in the woods. We were told that the wild Indians of this district live in fa- milies of from twenty to fifty persons; and although they consider themselves as the relations of or be- longing to particular tribes^ if a family is attacked^ the other families in the neighbourhood will not go to their assistance, and they are easily overcome in consequence. There are about forty thousand cattle feeding on some elevated plains at the head of the Rio Branco^ and bordering on some of the provinces of Guayna. An officer is appointed to take charge of them^ and they are occasionally brought down for the use of the Barra. A vessel had been sent up for some a short time before our arrival. Chap.X.] mo NEGRO. 309 A passage up the Rio Negro occupies about a month. The current not being strong, we were told that the current of the Rio Neg-ro is the weakest during the rainy season, when the Maranon is full. Numerous islands are formed by this river throughout its course, but it discharges itself into the Maranon by a single mouth. It appears no longer to be doubted that a communication exists between the Rio Negro and the Orinoco. We have been told, also, of other communications between the Orinoco and the Maranon ; and I think it far from improbable that if the various large tributaries of the Maranon were known^ numerous communications would be found between them, if the whole do not form a sort of net-work. Whilst at the Barra we took frequent evening walks with Colonel Zany and the vicar-general ; in some of which we saw the imperial manufactories for cotton and earthenware. No machinery was used in the former beyond spinning-wheels, such as were once used in England_, and looms worked by hand. The work was all performed by women, who received five vintins, equal to about sevenpence^ for every half pound of cotton when spun. Haifa pound was in gene- ral a day's work^ although a few spun a pound. The thread was coarse and uneven^ apparently inferior to that made at Moyobamba. The morals of the women employed in this factory were said not to be improved by their occupation, although a sentry was always on guard at the entrance^ and the imperial arms were 310 THE BARRA. [Chap. X. painted over the door. There was nothing* extraor- ] dinary about the earthenware manufactory. The clay was, we understood^ brought from the opposite bank ! of the Rio Negro. When brought into the shed of ^ the manufactory, it was kneaded in a square place í dug for the purpose, and afterwards made into tiles and large jars, holding about five gallons each, (used principally for containing manteiga_,) and a few com- f mon household utensils. The clay was brought in and kneaded by women ; a man made the jars^ and another man overlooked the whole. I On Saturday evening, the 15th of March, we met the colonel-commandant at Colonel Zany's^, and were glad to hear that in consequence of the licenses not having arrived from Barcellos, and the length of time some river craft had been detained, the commandante had determined on allowing them to proceed on his own responsibility. I After mass on Sunday we called on the comman- ; dante for our passport, when he talked of sending a \ sergeant down with us to introduce us to the presi- i dent at Para ; but on my expressing my opinion that as British subjects^, and particularly myself as a British officer, we should not require a sergeant to introduce lis to the president, he said that he had despatches to send down, and he had thought the sergeant might perform both offices at once ; but on reconsideration he should not send the sergeant in the vessel we went in. He then gave us an invitation to dine with him on the following day^ which we accepted. Chap. X.] mo NEGRO. 311 On Tuesday morning the cabo came to let us know he should be ready to start at noon. We therefore got our baggage on board and embarked ; but on the vessel's hauling out of the creek in which she had been laying, into the river, the wind was so fresh against us that we could not proceed. In the course of the afternoon the wind shifted, so as to enable us to lay down the river, and the vessel was again got under weigh, but had not gone far when it began to get dark, and the bottom lower down being rocky, we again brought-to. These operations did not augur well for expedition, but we had already been pretty well drilled, and were willing to be satisfied. In the interval between the vessel's anchoring after hauling out of the creek, and getting under weigh again, Mr. Hinde and myself landed, and went to Colonel Zany's. Returning on board we saw some- thing white waved to us, we supposed as a token of farewell ; and in looking more attentively found it was the vicar-general. This old gentleman fre- quently took his station on seats that were in front of his house, on a high steep part of the bank facing the river, from which the prospect was agreeable, and he had got a telescope for the purpose of ex- tending his view, or of observing any boats, canoes, &c., that miofht be moving- on the river. This tele- scope was much wondered at by the Indians, and dreaded by the women who went daily to bathe in the river, as they believed it had not only an approxi- mating but an inverting or reverting power. Going 312 THE BARRA. [Chap. X. down a good look-out was always kept on the padre's glass, and if it happened to be brought out whilst they were in the water_, a rush was immediately made to get further in, or to run out and hide themselves. ^ This was pretty nearly the amount of these females' modesty — chastity not being a virtue for which they are at present celebrated, or are Ukely to be cele- brated during the continuance of the now existing system. Their alarms at the glass were however generally causeless ; for_, laying aside its not pos- sessing the powers they attributed to it^ they were not sufficiently fascinathig to occasion the indecorum they imputed to the padre and his friends. 313 CHAPTER XL Proceed down the Marauon — Description of river craft — Mura Pueblo The Madeira — Serpa — Negociante and Cabo's condemnation of the Indians — Passages in saiUng-vessels — Shock of earthquake — Extraordinary eddies — River Maues — Villa Nova, Comniandancia — Old Negro — Manoel Pedro's chacra — Óbidos — Cocoa plantations — Santarém — Seized as prisoners when asleep, and taken back to Santarém — Commandante Militar' s proceedings, &c. — Passage down to Para — Gurupa — Numerous channels — Resistos — Santa Anna — Igarapé Merim. On waking in the mornings Wednesday^ March the 19th, I found the vessel drifting down the Maranon^ the Boca of the Rio Negro bearing s.w.^ about two leagues, and the reach continuing n.e., about one league. Afterwards the river bore e.n.e. for four or five miles ; then east_, and east a little southerly dur- ing the day. As it had been dark both when we entered and left the Rio Negro, we had not an op- portunity of observing the effect produced by the junction of the waters of the two rivers. Below the boca we passed some chacras^ and there are two small round hills not so thickly covered with wood as the country generally_, which tend to mark the en- trance of the Rio Negro at a distance. We had now an opportunity of observing the con- struction of the vessel in which we were embarked^ and which was nearly as follows : — She was about twenty-five tons burden ; her floor as we understood, and afterwards ascertained from observing other 314 RIVER CRAFT. [Chap. XI. similar vessels,, was nearly flat^ with a keel forward and aft^ but none in midships. From her floor to her extreme breadth, she had a quick straight rising. About six feet from the stem, and four feet abaft, the ^ mainmast was planked on a level with the gunnel as a quarter-deck and forecastle. Between these, and abaft the quarter-deck, arched timbers were fixed athwartships, the highest part of the arches being about six feet above the quarter-deck, and three feet above the forecastle, diminishing gradually. At the sides, stout planks went fore and aft about half way from the gunnel to the top of the arches, the remain- ing part of the roof above the planks being thatched with palm leaves. On the top pieces of split palm were placed fore and aft to stand upon ; these pieces were extended laterally over the hold, resting on small thwart ship timbers that were supported by stanchions from the gunnel. Underneath, but out- side the arches, a narrow platform was made fore and aft, on which the cables and various other things were stowed. The space between the quarter-deck and forecastle was called the hold, and was stowed up to the arches, with the exception of a wide place that was left for bailing, there being no pump. The space abaft the quarter-deck was called the cabin, the greater part of which was also filled with cargo. On the top of the hold, the crew, who consisted of the pilot or helmsman, six Indians, one negro slave, and an Indian boy to cook, stood to pull, having Chap. XI. J RIVER CRAFT. 315 paddles lashed to small poles^ and suspended by laniards to the stanchions at the sides. There were two masts and a bowsprit, two taunt sails, having" double the number of cloths at the foot to the head, and goared equally on both sides^ bent to yards which were slung in midships. When going before the wind^ these sails are bccketted to booms_, and rigged out one on each side. On a wind, the mainsail and jib are only set. The rudder passes up through the cabin_, and steers with a tiller on the arched roof. Towards sunset we entered a narrow passage between the left bank and an island, down which we continued passing until daylight^ when we again got into a principal channel. The banks of this narrow passage were marshy, and covered with rushes, amongst which were numerous musquitoes, whilst a dense vapour hung around. At a short distance the bank rose^ and apparently continued high. There were some chacras on the high ground. We had not been long on board before we found that neither the cabo, the pilot, nor crew knew how to manage the vessel ; and as it appeared that a few alterations as to the manner of setting the sails might tend to expedite our passage, at the wish of the cabo I made some which produced the desired effect. About noon we arrived off a new pueblo that was building, and made fast to a tree. The cabo ex- pected to get some tartaruga in exchange for cachaça, an inferior spirit made from sugar-cane, but he did not 316 MURA PUEBLO. [Chap. XI. go on shore. Mr. Hinde and myself landed amongst some groups of Indians who were collected^ and ap- peared to be watching- us with a considerable degree of distrust. We went up and addressed one of the principal groups^ headed by an elderly but stout In- dian. They did not understand us_, but endeavoured to let us know that there was a padre, by pointing to the place in which he lived. As we walked towards it, two boys ran before to give notice of our approach. We found the padre an old white-headed man. He appeared surprised^, but after learning who we were, pleased to see us. He informed us that his name was Jose de Chague ; that he had been for many years engaged in establishing and civilizing the Indians of different pueblos ; and was then occupied^ by order of the government^ in endeavouring to found a pueblo of the Mura tribe, who had hitherto lived in huts at short distances from each other in the woods^ without either laws, government^ or religion. He then walked to show us his work. In the course of two months he had got together about a hundred Indians, whom he had arranged in ranchos built in rows as streets, and which he intended afterwards to rebuild, and had nearly finished a neat and not very small church. He had not named the pueblo^ and would not do so until the church was finished. Whilst we were going round the pueblo, the In- dians were evidently watching us^ and the padre, seeing a number of them collected under some trees,, told them laughingly^ that he was going away with ^ Chap. XL] MURA PUEBLO. 317 US. This appeared to be far from agreeable intelli- gence to the Indians, and the whole beginning* to follow, some of the younger ones, particularly the girls^ ran to pull the old man back^ and prevent his leaving them. On taking leave^ the padre insisted on giving us a tartaruga for the passage. We had scarcely got again on board the vessel, when the cabo began to express no very favourable opinion of the padre^ the cause of which was that he had not been able to get a single tartaruga in ex- change for cachaça. He said that before the padre's arrival, a few Indians who lived at this place em- ployed themselves in catching tartaruga, which they exchanged with river craft passing up or down for cachaça, but that the padre had now given them something else to do. However, we had scarcely got again under weigh _, and the cabo finished his harangue, when a canoe with two Indians, who could not forget their old customs, and did not like to see us depart without getting a dram, shoved off and brouofht us a tartaruo^a, which they exchano-ed with the cabo for half a bottle of cachaça. We afterwards fell in with some fishing canoes belong- ing to the new pueblo, from which some fish was got in exchange for farinha. I observed that some of the Indians in these canoes had slight beards and whiskers, with European features, all of which are very uncommon amongst the Indians ; it is possible that they might be descendants of some of the 318 THE MADEIRA. [Chap. XT. Europeans said to have been lost on the earliest expeditions. In the latter part of the afternoon, we passed the mouth of the river Madeira, which was scarcely distinguishable^ in consequence of an ^ island lying between us and the boca. The junction of the Madeira changed the course of the Maranon from East a little Southerly, which it had been during the day^ to e.n.e. Nearly abreast of the mouth of the Madeira was a cocoa chara, the house of which appeared good. The cocoa-trees were distinguishable by their foliage being of a yellower tint than the surrounding wood. To Mr. Hinde's and my own surprise,, we were here overtaken by the canoe with the Indians who had exchanged the tartaruga for cachaça. They were evidently feeling the effects of their former bargain^ and had now brought three fowls which they exchanged for a full bottle. The night being fine with little wind^ we con- tinued under weigh^ sometimes pulling^ but mostly under sail^ and drifting with the current. On w^aking in the morning, we found the vessel made fast to a tree^ at the landing place of a chacra, a short distance below the Pueblo of Serpa^ where the cabo had some straw hammocks to negotiate^ and which the pilot had run past during the night. We went up with the cabo in the montaria or small canoe belonging to the vessel, and walked about to see the pueblo whilst he was making his bargain. The inhabitants appeared to consist principally Chap. XL] * SERPA. 319 of Brancos, with a few Indians attached to their families. A churchy to which a padre was appointed^ but who we understood was not then present, stood in the midst of a few ruinous-looking" houses^ that might at some period have formed streets. But one short row was all that retained any tolerable regularity ; decay had extended even to the trunks of a few old orange trees^ that stood in front of some of the houses. The plaza was covered with long grass^ on which two or three cattle were feeding-. Going to the house at which the cabo was ne- gotiating^ we were told that Serpa was one of the oldest pueblos on the river, but the negociante added_, turning up his own hands as he spoke_, we have now ^ na braços/ no hands ; and he was immediately joined by the cabo in running into a violent con- demnation of the Indians. They declared that the Indians were only to be managed by harsh mea- sures, and concluded a long harangue^ in which violence and injustice rather than reason prepon- derated_, by assuring us that those Indians we had seen at the new pueblo would return to the woods as soon as the padre left them. Anger, or ignorance, or selfishness, or perhaps all three combined, prevented these people from seeing that their account was contradictory. If the Indians would return to the woods as soon as the padre left them, why would they do so ? Because 320 SERPA. [Chap. XI. a different system from that by which the padre had collected and drawn them from the woods would in all probability be adopted towards them. Vet we had seen that the padre made them work^ and kept them in order ; he had even prohibited their exchanging the tartaruga that they required for provision, for cachaça that would intoxicate them ; but he did not treat them with injustice. Had the cabo and the negociante's arguments been superior to those they brought forward^ we had seen and gained too much practical information respect- insr the Indians under various circumstances, both in Brazil and Peru^ to be misled. But it was piti- able to find persons so entirely blinded by an avaricious rage for immediate profit^ as not merely to contradict themselves in their statements, but to annihilate, as far as was in their power^ (and that power under existing circumstances chiefly re- strained by the absence of objects on which to vent it,) the very means by which not only the general prosperity, but also their own individual benefit was to be obtained. Those means, moreover, being fellow-creatures, it may be considered a trifling as it is certainly a childish comparison, but, with the exception that the lad killed a goose instead of destroying human beings, the most apt comparison I can make to such a system_, is the fable of the boy who killed his goose to get all the eggs at once. Of the cabo Mr. Hinde and myself had already Chap. XI.] SERPA. 321 formed a contemptible opinion, and subsequent events did not tend to improve it. I have previously mentioned him as of French extraction ; but I no longer speak of him as a Frenchman^ not merely because he left his country when young-, but because no country is without evil or contemptible charac- ters, and it can scarcely be thought right to attach the name of a nation like the French to such an individual. The Brazilian authorities treated him with little regard, and even the Governor of San- tarém endeavoured to impress upon us that '^ if he was a Brazilian he would not act as he did." Any opinion of his, therefore, was of little consequence beyond his immediate power of applying it in prac- I tice. But it was worse to hear the negociante, who appeared to be a better sort of person, profess the same principles, or rather want of principle, with regard to the Indians. Lest I should be supposed to have proceeded on theory rather than practical proofs, in forming the opinions I have expressed relative to the svstems acted on towards the In- dians, I beg leave to refer to the different effects produced at some of the different stations we passed. At Balsa Puerto and Yurimaguas, where, either from the distance being less, and an occasional com- munication with the more civiUzed parts of the republic, or from the time not having been sufficient since the appointment of new governors by the intendente of Moyobamba, systems of injustice had 322 TREATMENT OF [Chap. XI not yet been introduced, the Indians were com- parati vely numerous and happy_, whilst they styled themselves ^ the sons of obedience ;' and that such was not merely a nominal or unmeaning- title we n^ found to our benefit, by their readiness to accom- pany us when wanted, and by their working- hard and behaving w^ell whilst with us. At Laguna and other pueblos where the governors had begun to treat the Indians with injustice,, oblig- ing them to go out and collect sarsaparilla, Sec, whilst they did not pay them a just price for what they obtained, the Indians not only destroyed the roots in order that they might not be compelled to gather them — the consequence of which would be that in a short time the crops would fail, and the governors and the government lose the benefit — but they had begun to leave the pueblos : some had made chacras in the Montana, and seldom appeared in the pueblos ; others never appeared, and were supposed to have renounced Christianity. Laguna had, at one time, a population of fifteen hundred persons ; now, with the exception of the festivals, when the Indians still retaining some regard for what they have been taught, assemble, the pueblo is in a great measure deserted. Only the governor and a few individuals remain, and the streets and plaza grow full of grass. At Iquitos the people were employed by order of the intendente, collecting sarsaparilla. They rebelled, wounded the governor and some other mestiços Chap. XL] THE INDIANS. 323 who were living* there, and drove them into the woods. At Pebas there was an apparently c^ood governor. He told us candidly^ that if the Indians behaved improperly he punished them, but he did not treat them unjustly. The consequence was, that not only the people of the pueblo were comparatively well oíF and happy, but he had acquired the confidence of the wild Indians^ and they came from the woods to serve him. We accidentally heard at Moyobamba that this governor was to be superseded. He proba- bly did not answer as a commercial agent for the in- tendente. A similar governor to the one at Laguna may by this time have been appointed^ and a second edition of depopulation and destruction have ensued. At St. Pablo, the next station below the Brazilian frontier^ and where we got the ^ ladrone' and the Indians who deserted us, the brancos remarked that there was a wide difference between the Brazi- lian and the Peruvian Indians, the latter being much superior ; yet they were nearly the same tribes. At the new pueblo the old padre in the course of two months collects about a hundred Indians^ arranges them in ranchos to form streets, builds a church, and establishes order. Here at Serpa, one of the oldest pueblos on the Maraiion^ decay is evident throughout, and there are few or no Indians. A branco negociante holds up his hands^ and not only tells us ^ we have nao braços — no hands/ but also ^ that the Indians will Y 2 324 SAILING VESSELS. [Chap. XI. desert the new pueblo as soon as the padre leaves them. Now these appear to me practical facts requiring* little depth of reasoning to trace their causes or n effects. For can any unprejudiced person ask him- self what is the cause of these evils, without answer- ing* injustice? The evils existing* to a greater or less extent in proportion to the degree of injustice that has produced them. In answer to our inquiries as to the probable time we should be in going* down to Para^ we were told that in the dry season, when the current of the river is less rapid^ and the wind up the river stronger^, vessels were sometimes two months in going down ; but as the season was now favourable we should pro- bably not be quite a month. In the dry season pas- sages had been made up from Para^ one in twenty- five_, and another in twenty-seven days, but they were considered extraordinary. Some of the quickest pas- sages had been made by schooners and river craft of superior size, well fitted with sails. I therefore in- quired why they were not more generally used_, as from being larger they would carry more cargo^ and might be worked by proportionally fewer hands,, the want of whom was so universally complained of. The objections were^ that the cargoes being light, as sar- saparilla, manteiga, cocoa^ &c., they would be incon- venient to stow in sailing vessels ; also^ that although sailing vessels came up well before the wind, they were awkward to get down against it, particularly in Chap. XI.] TRIBUTARY RIVERS. 325 the dry season, when the channel is in some parts narrow and winding*. Schooners occasionally go up to the Rio Negro. A merchant brig and a man-of- war schooner had been there ; a frigate, even, might go up^ but she could not get down again, in their opinion. The cabo having at length exchanged his ham- mocks for tobacco^ returned to the vessel to get them ; and as we did not wish to remain in the pueblo we accompanied him. On the bank of the river from the pueblo to the chacra were several rocks similar to those we had seen on the banks of the Rio Neofro. The reason that the Marafion is not equally affected, supposing its bed here to consist of these rocks^ and that they contain iron^ perhaps is the vast volume of water with which it rushes from above^ where it is muddy, and also that its current is more rapid. I think the waters of the Maranon are clearer below the Rio Negro than they are towards its source. Although the Rio Negro is the darkest, it is not the only tribu- tary of the Maranon whose waters are of a dark colour. All below Fonte Boa^ at least all we saw_, were both clear and dark coloured_, by which means it was easy to distinguish them from the island passages of the Maranon_, which had not been the case above. It was frequently remarked to us by the natives, that the waters of the dark-coloured streams were not so good for use as the waters of the Maranon. I thought the former w^ere chalybeate. It may, perhaps, not be improper here to mention 326 EARTHQUAKE. [Chap. XI. a circumstance which I have not noticed before, as I was not fully aware of it, until after repeated inqui- ries from^ and conversations with^ people at different places on the way down. About nine o'clock in the mornino^ of the 6th of December, as we were sitting at breakfast at Truxillo^, Mr. Macpherson^ who was at the head of the table^ suddenly made a spring-, and run out of the house, followed by the rest of the party. I accompanied them as a matter of course, and on inquiry^ learnt that the roof had cracked, and that a smart shock of an earthquake had been felt ; but whether it was that the cracking- was so much slighter than the noise made by the bulkheads of a ship, and my being used to motion, or from my not being on the look-out_, I neither heard nor felt the shock. Other slig-ht shocks were felt during the day, and when taking sights with an artificial horizon^ I observed a tremulous motion in the quicksilver, although placed on a low, thick wall without anything moving near it. During the passage I had forgot this circumstance, until at dif- ferent places we were asked if any shock had been felt above, and told that some of the rivers discharg- ing themselves into the Maranon had come down swollen, thick with mud, and covered with trees and pieces of wreck, which led the natives to suppose the shock must have been violent in some parts. As we found that the cargo stowed in the cabin was to be capsized to get at the hammocks, and make room for the tobacco, Mr. Hinde and myself went to Chap. XI.] SERPA. 327 walk in the chacra_, until the vessel should be ready to proceed. It belong-ed to some person in the pueblo^ and was in charge of an old Indian, who informed us he had lived there since it was made, which was about thirty years. It consisted of a few cocoa-trees^ occupying about the same space as a moderate-sized English orchard, a plantain garden, and some coffee shrubs^ with orange and other fruit trees. A small lake near the chacra communicates with the Maranon, by a narrow channel_, during the rainy season. In the woods were several tracks of wild boars^ or ^^ porco de matto.^' Some grandchildren of the old Indian were running about naked^ and lying on mats^ under the shade of the cocoa-trees. The vessel did not cast off from the bank until about two in the afternoon^ after which we worked down the river against a moderate breeze ; fortunately the current was strong in our favour_, or we should have got on but slowly^ as the vessel was wore whenever we went about_, and the pilot was not par- ticular in his steerage. From Serpa^ the river run to the eastward for three or four leagues^ and then turned to N.E.bE., which it continued until the latter part of the following afternoon, Saturday, the 22nd, when it turned to N.E.bN. for about three leagues^ towards high, broken land, on the left bank, the soil of which was red;, and had the appearance of hills at a distance. As we approached this place the current became stronger than usual^ with several trees and patches of grass or 328 RIVER MAUES. [Chap. XI. reeds floating* down. We also picked up some pu- mice. Abreast the high part of the bank we got into strong eddies, that slewed the vessel round re- peatedly against all the power of the helm, the sweeps, and the sails : these eddies extended nearly across the reach, and it took us half an hour with every effort we could apply to get clear of them. We were told that this reach, which was not more than half a league across, contained the whole of the river, but I doubt that being the case. From this place, the course of the river changed to s.E.bE. On Sunday morning it was e.s.e. and E.bs., and at noon east. About two o'clock on Sunday afternoon we passed the mouth of the river Maues, entering the Mara- non from the southward, and half a league lower down anchored in a small shallow bight abreast of the pueblo of Villa Nova, on the right bank of the river. Villa Nova being the last pueblo of the Comarca of the Rio Negro, and a convenient place for small vessels passing up or down the Maranon to call at, has been established as an imperial port, and the river craft are obliged to anchor, produce their licenses, and pay duties on such articles as they have not previously paid for. As soon as we had anchored a soldier came down to the beach, and hailed to know where we were from, with some other ques- tions. After being answered he went up with us to the commandante, the cabo taking his license, with an account of his cargo. The commandante ^ Chap. XL] VILLA NOVA. 329 received us civilly^ and after reading* our passport^, said he should be glad to get us whatever we were in want of and Villa Nova could afford. As we were in want of farinha and plantains,, we requested he would let some be bought for us ; and as it appeared that the cabo's papers would require more time than the countersigning our passport^ we walked out to see the pueblo and call on the padre^ of whom the commandante spoke highly. We found him rather a young man, with much cheerfulness in his manner. He was surprised, but expressed himself and appeared glad to see us. He informed us he was a native of Maranham, and had been a year and a half at Villa Nova. In speaking of the Indians, he said they were uncivilized but quiet. If they were only civilized^, the country they lived in would produce anything; whilst in the dry season the river would afford sufficient employment in catching and preserving the fish^ which are then superabundant. His house was small^ but neat and clean. There was a small case of books in the room we sat in_, some of which were in the French and Spanish languages_, but mostly on religious subjects. He gave us some guaraná mixed with lemonade to drink, telling us that the guaraná is made from the berries of a plant that grows in several parts of Brazil, but the mode of preparing it is known only to the Indians of Villa Nova and of a pueblo eight days' journey up the river Maues. It is much 330 VILLA NOVA. [Chap. XI. esteemed throug-hout Brazil, but particularly in the province of Matto Groso, whence merchants come down the Maues to purchase it. It is worth four patacas_, or about six shillings and sixpence a pound at Villa Nova. It is supposed to be cooling to the bloody and acts as a diuretic ; but if taken to excess it is said to produce nervous irritability. Thp Indians belonging to Villa Nova and the Maues pueblo live much at their chacras, and seldom collect in the pueblos, excepting at the festivals. There was a padre up the Maues. Taking leave of the padre, we returned to the commandante's, but found that the cabo had not arranged his business. It appeared that a list of his cargo was wanting ; the cabo could not write, and it would not have been correct for the list to have appeared in the commandante's writing, Mr. Hinde was, therefore, applied to ; and although the cabo had not been attentive on the passage, he consented, and the business was soon settled. When the farinha and plantains were brought in, the com- mandante informed us they were the produce of his own chacra, and would not hear of payment, adding that he was sorry he had not more in his house ; but that if we could call at his chacra, which vv^as lower down on the opposite side the reach, we might get as many as we chose. The appearance of Villa Nova, from the water, was that of a large and well-built pueblo ; but when on shore we found it consisted of an irregular un- ^ Chap. XL] VILLA NOVA. 331 connected row of houses and ranchos, about half a mile in length, fronting-, and from fifty to a hundred yards from the bank, which was steep and had a gravelly beach below it. The church, which was plain, stood between the row of houses and the bank, with the quartel nearly behind it. Two iron guns^ about nine pounders, stood one at each end of the quartel, and there appeared to be from twenty to thirty soldiers in the pueblo. A few cattle were feeding near the church. There were three river craft besides the one we came in, at anchor in the small bight. We understood that Villa Nova had been founded about thirty years before by some captain ; and the old padre we had seen at the Mura pueblo arriving soon afterwards, the Indians increased in numbers, and the pueblo was regularly established. About a leaofue and a half below Villa Nova, and on the same bank of the river, are several buildings, called the commandancia^ made by order of the government, and intended as a kind of frontier post between the Comarcas of Para and the Rio Negro. When lhe commandante is not at Villa Nova, he is to be found at the commandancia, and vessels are then ordered to bring-to there, for their papers, to be sis'ned, &c. We were told that a little below the commandancia there is a hill, on the top of which a cross has been erected to mark the boundary of the two comarcas : we did not see it. The cabo had considered the commandante's offer for us to call at his chacra for more plantains a good 332 COMMANDANTE'S CHACRA. [Chap. XI. opportunity to get a supply,, and hurried getting the vessel under weighs so as to arrive before dark. His maxim appeared to be to get every things or anything, wherever or whenever it was to be had : nor was he scrupulous as to the means, frequently visiting such plantain chacras as we saw on the banks without any person being present to guard them. We arrived off the commandante's chacra as the sun was settings and landed in the Montaria. From what we saw of the house it appeared calcu- lated for an occasional residence of the comman- dante's family, and the grounds immediately around it were rather tastefully laid out as a garden shrub- bery. There was a landing-place, with some steps up the bank. On landing we were met by an old lame negro, with only one eye. He had seen us approach, and came from the house supported by a host of dogs to reconnoitre, and, as far as he should be able, to prevent any improper movement on our part. The cabo, as the most interested, and being at all times ready to assume and display authority where he supposed opposition dare not be made, accosted the old negro in an imperative tone, telling him we had come with the commandante's sanction for a supply of plantains, &c. The guardian, how- ever, not only evinced by his manner that he was far from placing implicit faith in the cabo's Veracity, but proved that he both dared, and would, as far as he was able^ make opposition. He advanced, and placing his two crutches together, leant upon them N Chap. XI.] OLD NEGRO. 333 directly in the cabo's front, telling him in return,, that * there were no plantains.' None ? No not one ! a canoe had been that day from the comman- dancia, and taken all there were. The cabo was somewhat surprised, and feeling that if there were no plantains there were musquitoes, asked in a (^fferent kind of tone, striking his legs as he spoke to drive off the insects, whether they were numerous? ^ Si senhor, carapana, motuca, and pium,' (three of the worst kinds of insects). The cabo was van- quished, and immediately sounded a retreat. The scene, though not of long continuance, was ludicrous, and to Mr. Hinde and myself highly amusing. As we were going off we gave the unfortunate old cripple a few vintins as a reward for his wit and gallantry ; upon which he observed, that ' indeed we were his countrymen.' Havino' aofain ofot on board the river craft, we did not proceed far before the pilot persuaded the cabo that a heavy squall was coming on, and the vessel was anchored close in to a lee-shore, where the old negro's account of musquitoes was fully verified. The squall, as might have been foreseen, was nothing more than a light breeze, which however swung the vessel's stern in amongst bushes, and had a heavy squall come on she would, in all probability, have been seriously damaged, if not destroyed. This was not the first mistake the pilot had made ; he had most absurdly anchored off a point the evening before. My opinion was then applied for, but differing from ■^ 334 MANOEL PEDRO. [Chap. XI. the pilot, and not being attended to^ they now took their own way. From Villa Nova the river ran e.n.e. for three or four leagues, and afterwards n.e. until Monday afternoon. Some of the channels through which we passed, between the right bank and islands^ were narrow ; whilst others were a league and a half in breadth. I do not think we at any time saw both banks of the river. On Monday afternoon we brought-to in a small cove, above which there was a chacra_, with a chapel attached to it. The situation was pleasing, and the effect picturesque. The owner of the chacra's name was Manoel Pedro, a robust white-headed old man^ with only one arm, who had lived there thirty years. Mr. Hinde and myself landed to see if we could buy any fowls as provision. We were met at the landing- place by the owner^ accompanied by his son^ a tall^ fine-looking young man, and by another branco. They received us civilly^ but inquisitively asking in- numerable questions as they led us towards a square tiled shed^ standing on the cliff of a small abrupt point that forms the cove, and enclosed by a wooden balustrade about four feet high. Inside the balus- trade seats were fixed^ and in the centre was a table with four large^ neat-looking water-jars. The outside was additionally shaded by a few trees_, without their being so numerous as to obstruct the view^ which was fine. Seats being offered to us^ and our wishes made known as to fowls^ questions were continued. ^ Chap. XI.] HIS CHACRA. 335 For some time they either could not or would not un- derstand that we were Englishmen. When at length they were convinced that we really were English- men^ and that we had come from Peru, the old man exclaimed^ '^' I remember the time when it would have been thought a wonder to see an English- man in Para ; now there are several English mer- chants in Para, and here are you coming from Peru ! How can this be?" He then inquired after some of the persons we had seen on the way down, still scarcely crediting that we had come from the sea at the other side of Peru. The commandante of Egas had been his comrade, and he knew Colonel Zany, whom he was expecting to see. To avoid more questions^ and being obliged to relate our adventures whether we would or not^ we proposed walking round to see the chacra whilst the fowls we were to get were catching, and the crew of the vessel made a fire, and cooked their provisions. The old man consented_, saying he had a little of every things and took us first to see a manufactory of coarse earthenware, in which he had a kiln with two fire-places that would bake four hundred manteiga jars at once. Near the kiln was an anvil and forge,, which he said was used occasionally. In a large shed, enclosed at the lower, but open at the upper part of the ends and sides^ were ovens for baking mandioca. In this shed we found the owner's wife^ a respectable-looking^ matron-like dame^, much re- sembling her husband in manner and figure. She 33B MANDIOCA CAKES. [Chap. XI. was presiding over the female part of the establish- ment_, consisting- of several daughters and some In- dian women, who were employed in preparing man- dioca. The dame was herself seated at one end of ^ the shed^ with two or three sieves, through which she was rubbing the finest part of the flour^ which was beautifully white^ to make cakes. The daugh- ters and Indian women stood in a group near a large stove or oven, on the top of which cakes were baking. Female curiosity had been excited by our arrival^ the news having reached them ; and by the time we made our appearance, it was stretched to the utmost. Even the dame's industry was suspended^ and she wished to know which of us was the captain, Mr. Hinde hav- ing previously told the owner that I was an officer in his Majesty's navy. The mandioca system of baking that they were engaged in was explained to us; it differed from that we had seen at Diez Guerro's chacra, this spe- cies of mandioca appearing not to be poisonous. The finest and whitest part of the flour^ about which the dame was herself employed, was made into small cakes, that were taken with cofl^ee^, and con- sidered a luxury. The coarser parts were made into large cakes for distilling aguadiente ; the dame concluded her description by desiring her daughters to 2five us each one of the small white cakes, and we took our leave. Returning towards the shed in which we had first sat down, we passed some trunks of large trees that were hollowed in the Chap. XI.] THE PADRE. 337 middle^ with the ends open, and were to be hove out by means of fire, for making- the bottom of g-alateas. The owner now informed us that a padre lived witli him, and pointed out his room ; he approached the door cautiously, but returned, saying- the padre was praying- ; however, he hailed to let him know there were '' two Englishmen come from Spain and going to Para !" The padre answered, and said he would come 'o us presently ; we went into the shed or summer- house, and took some coffee that was offered to us, and the padre soon made his appearance. He was an elderly man with white hair, somewhat resembling the owner in figure, but with the quiet easy manner of a man who had seen the world, rather than the owners jovial heartiness; he bowed as he ap- proached, and appeared to scan us minutely before he entered much into conversation. Our host did not, however, leave us long in ignorance that the padre had been a great traveller. In a loud quick tone of voice, and with considerable gratulation in his manner, he ran over a list of countries that the padre had visited, amongst which were England, France, and India. On inquiry we found the padre had visited Cowes in the year 1796 ; and although he had not been to any other part of England, he spoke highly of the beauties of the Isle of Wight. Being asked if any men-of-war were then laying at Spithead, he made an inclination with his body and said ^^ Muito, " many. He had now finished his scrutiny, and taking two or three small pinches of z 338 STEAM VESSELS. [Chap. XI. snufF, he began to ask questions respecting our route^ apparently taking- much interest in the little that was told him, particularly after Mr. Hincle's mentioning- that we had been deserted by the In- N dians, he observed, ^' What an advantage steam- vessels would be on such a river." After some further conversation respecting India, which the padre had also visited several years before, and of which I gave him more recent accounts,, the fowls we had bought having been taken on board, and the crew of the vessel finished cooking-, we walked down, to the landing place, accompanied by the padre, the owner, and his son. Previous to our arrival at this chacra, the cabo had spoke of the owner as the particular friend of his father-in-law, and an old acquaintance of his own ; we had, therefore^ anticipated a joyous meet- ing and recognition^ and were somewhat surprised at his not landing. An exchange of names now took place^ the owner raising his only remaining hand to his ear, to facilitate the progress of the cabo's voice as he hailed from the vessel. Either lonof absence had weakened the old man's recoUec- tion, or the cabo's description had been figurative ; a general sort of conversation took place^ in which the authorities, or, as it was termed, the want of au- thority at the Barra, was condemned for having de- tained the vessel. The padre had already bowed to us and gone up to his room. The owner now followed, and we got under weigh and proceeded. It was re- Chap. XI.] ISLANDS CULTIVATED. 339 marked to us at the chacra that the river "vvas un- usually full^ the water having risen to near a level with the banks. Leaving- the chacra, the course of the river was N.N.E. for about a league, afterwards N.E.bE. and the breadth of the channel about a leaoue and a half. The left bank was not visible^ but we saw some distant hills which were on the left side of the river^ and which appeared gradually to increase in dimensions from those we had passed at the eddies on Saturday afternoon. There were in this part some large cocoa planta- tions, not only on the right bank, but on islands. Higher up the river, the islands were not cultivated,, but I should imagine they would be desirable situa- tions for raising cotton ; indeed we did hear of one river island in Peru, from which a small quantity of cotton is obtained. About eight o'clock in the evening, we passed another chacra^ with a chapel ; and after running foul of a river craft that was at anchor^ and carrying away our montaria's painter, we anchored in a nar- row channel between the right bank and an island^ in consequence of a heavy squall threatening. The rain falling heavily with thunder^ an apalmacaya was placed over between the cabin and the hold, and the Indians, who had been driven out of their place forward, in order that cargo might be stowed in it, crowded under the apalmacaya for shelter. The heat was excessive, the smell of the Indians z 2 340 ÓBIDOS. [Chap. XI. strong, and musquitoes numerous ; the little remain- ing chance of sleep was annihilated by the loud lamentations of the cabo, who kept the unfortunate Indian boy who cooked fanning the musquitoes from about his straw hammock. At day-light the weather cleared and we pro- ceeded ; the bearing of the river continuing N.E.bE. Shortly after noon (Tuesday) we passed the large pueblo of Óbidos, situated on a high part of the left bank, which is steep towards the river> but slopes down the other sides. We did not bring-to, and several of the houses were hid by the steep part of the bank ; but some of those we saw ap- peared to be well built, and the church was large. We understood that an English and a North Ameri- can merchant resided there. At Óbidos the river takes a turn from N.E.bE. to s.E.bE. The breadth of the channel is about half a league, and it is said to contain the whole current of the Maranon. About a league and a half below Óbidos, a squall came on, and the vessel was anchored abreast of a chacra, or ingenhu, belonging to an elderly gentle- man, who, in the time of the Constitution, went to Portugal as one of the deputies of the province. Mr. Hinde and myself landed until the squall should be over, and walked up to the house ; in front of which the mud was so deep, that it had been necessary to lay a pathway of planks. The old gentleman was glad to see us, and gave us a long Chap. XL] COCOA PLANTATIONS. 341 account of the state of Europe and the world at larg-e^ of which he assured us he had ''^excellent information," but which did not prove to be quite correct. He then offered us some coffee, and re- quested we would let the merchants in Para know that, in consequence of the long- continuance and heaviness of the rains^ the cocoa trees continued growing-, and the branches taking the nourishment that the fruit required, the crops did not promise well, though they might still recover. The squall having passed, we returned on board, and again proceeded. Whilst the anchor was weigh- ing, we observed the deputy take his station on a seat outside the'^ house, surrounded by his family, consist- ing of a wife, two daughters, and a son, all appa- rently inquiring the news, whilst a few reconnoitring- glances were sent towards the river craft. From what we could see of the young ladies, they were pretty, although not fair. They had long dark hair, dark eyes, and good figures. If it were right to judge from their manners, gayer scenes than the muddy pool in front of the house would have accorded more with their wishes. We had seen the son when on shore ; he could scarcely be styled accomplished ; perhaps good tempered, but apparently idly brought up, to pass an idle life, as his father's successor. The cocoa plantations now extended for miles along the banks of the river, but were not of great breadth. The trees appeared to be planted in regular rows, but very close together ; they were of an equal height^ 342 VOYAGE TO SANTARÉM. [Chap. XI. and the foliage had a yellow tinge. One large plan- tation belonged to the proprietor of the ingenhn we had been at, and another_, still larger^ belonged to the emperor. N The river again expanded, so that we could not distinguish both banks^ whilst several islands, and various channels^ were discernible. The night was squally, but we continued under weigh ; and the crew endeavoured to reef the mainsail. This was a new^ operation, but performed on a par with their other manoeuvres. The sail was lowered as many feet as the pilot considered necessary ; the leaches, the foremost away to leeward^ and the after one hauled over to windward, were held on by two of the stoutest hands, whilst the remainder of the crew sat on the foot of the sail to keep it down. I remained up during the night, and endeavoured to substitute the bowlines for tacks and sheets, the sails only hav- ing beckets in the clews. This plan the pilot thought answered better, and it allowed the rest of the crew to sleep, but it was useless attempting to show these people any thing. The Indians, with the exception of the pilot, had never been in a sailing vessel before_, and the cabo_, besides being equally ignorant, was in- clined to be impertinent and headstrong. The vessel was brought-to when squalls had passed to leeward, and got underweigh as they were coming on. If she was anchored at the right time, it was frequently off the lee bank. Mr. Hinde and myself regretted we had not brought our own galatea from the Rio Negro, and Chap. XI.] SANTARÉM. 343 resolved^ if we could get a better conveyance at San- tarém^ to leave the one we were in. At each phice on the way down we had anticipated an improvement in our passage, whilst, with the exception of Egas, each change as to conveyance had been for the worse. On Wednesday, the 26th, tlie course was about E.S.E., but there were various passages — in the after- noon three abreast, and that we went down did not appear to be the principal. Before daylight, on Thursday, March 27th^ we anchored abreast the villa of Santarém, situated on the right bank of the river Tapajós, and about three leagues from a wide opening, in which the waters of the Tapajós and of some smaller streams are lost in those of the Maranon. After daylight_, Mr. Hinde and myself were dressing and getting ready to present our passports to the regular au- thorities, whoever they might be, when we were boarded by an officer from a man-of-war schooner that was at anchor. The officer asked to see our passport, which was shown to him, and in a civil man- ner he told us it was necessary we should present it to the commander on board the schooner. The cabo was also to take his papers. Accordingly, we went on board the schooner almost immediately, and were received by the commander, who was a lieutenant in the Brazilian navy. He read the passport, asked if I was an officer in the British navy, and whether I had a commission. He was told that I was an officer in his Britannic Majesty's navy, and that 1 had a com- 344 SANTARÉM. [Chap. XL mission, but had not got it in my pocket. He signed the passport^ said we should have to show it to the commandante militar ; ordered one of his boats to be manned, and sent a soldier or marine up with us to the commandante militar's house. The comman- dante was not up ; seats were given us in a room in which a person^ apparently a clerk^ w^as writings and the commandante shortly made his appearance^ read our passport^ and returned it with a bow^ but without saying anything. We inquired whether he knew of any conveyance that was about to leave Santarém for Para. He said that two river craft had started the day before, but he did not think any others were o'oing. We then asked if there were any English- men at Santarém^ as we had heard a report of there being some. He said there was a young man whom an English merchant had left in charge of a house, and offered to send a soldier to show us the way, for which we thanked him^ accepted his ofFer_, and took our leave. The soldier led us to a house, where we found a young man, named JeiFries, with another Englishman, carrying on business for Mr. Gay, an English merchant at Para ; and they being the first of our countrymen we had seen since leaving the coast of the Pacific, we made several inquiries, such as what British merchants we should find at Para, and the probability of vessels sailing for England, the usual time taken to go down the river in such craft as the one we were in, and the likehhood of meeting with fewer musquitoes. ^ Chap. XI.] SANTARÉM. 34Õ Mr. Jeffries walked to show us the villa, and at his request we called upon a colonel of militia, who, he said, had been civil to the English. We remained at the colonel's house a few minutes, and then finding we could not get any other conveyance, and suppos- ing that the cabo would probably want to start, we went down to the beach to go on board. Mr. Jef- fries accompanied us, and whilst waiting for the mon- taria, informed us that a ^^ Captain Hislop," who had formerly commanded an English merchant vessel, and was then established as a merchant at Óbidos, had heard of our coming down the river some time, bnt I imagine this must have been a mistake, as we afterwards learnt that some German travellers were expected down the river Tapajós. The montaria having come from the river craft, we went on board. Mr. Jeffries also going to see the cabo respecting his cargo, but finding that he could not make any agree- ment as to purchasing, he returned on shore, and Mr. Hinde and myself commenced making our break- fast, consisting of cocoa and some bread we had brought off. The vessel's anchor was weighed, and we had begun to drift down the river, when we were hailed from the schooner to bring-to, and take the pass- ports on board again. This was annoying, particu- larly at such a time. The weather being warm, and the place we were in not spacious, I had taken off my coat to get my breakfast ; I was now remounting it, and preparing to go on board the schooner, when the cabo said it was a mere matter of form^ and that he could ^46 SANTARÉM. [Chap. XI. take our passport with his own^ which Mr. Hinde ad- vised me to let him do^ and the passport was accord- ingly given to him. Mr. Hinde and myself pro- ceeded with our breakfast. After we had finished_, we ^ observed the cabo go from the schooner to the com- mandante militar's house^ and afterwards return to the schooner. On his coming back to the river crafty we asked if any thing had been wrong. He said it was necessary the passport and papers should be signed by the commandante militar^ as well as by the commander of the schooner^ and he had been to get the commandante's signatures ; our passport was then handed to us^ signed by both. The vessel's an- chor was again weighed^ and we proceeded. I have been thus particular in relating minutely what occurred at Santarém at this time^ as I am about to give an account of a proceedings or set of proceedings^ of which I cannot yet think without dis- gust, and in comparison with which any previous pri- vations or fatigue we might have undergone were trifling. I shall endeavour to avoid dwelling on such a subject longer than is necessary to convey an idea of the manner in which the operations were carried on, both for the reader's sake and my own. The substance is_, that after our departure from Santarém^ the commandante militar,, having chosen to deter- mine that '^ the peace and safety" of the district over which he presided (and which he subsequently took infinite pains to convince us extended from the Co- marca of the Rio Negro to Parana space of country Chap. XI.] SANTARÉM. 347 almost equalling Great Britain in dimensions) de- pended upon Mr. Hinde and myself being- seized as prisoners^ and brought again into his presence, planned an expedition, and despatched an officer with a party of men in pursuit, who overtook the river craft during the night, and with due zeal and ability made us prisoners when asleep! If it should be thought that the grounds on which I here state the com mandante militar to have proceeded, namely, *^the peace and safety " of his district, are too absurd to have really been acted upon, I can only add, that they are what we were repeatedly given to understand the commandante himself declared: for my own part, I must confess I was, and still am, at a loss to know to what to attribute such a procedure ; whether to an ignorant stupidity, or to an equally foolish wish to display power, or perhaps to both. Indeed, I do not think the commandante militar knew exactly him- self, although he chose to make use of the plea here mentioned as the best he could advance, particularly when he found he had been guilty of a most wanton outrage, and had got himself into a serious scrape. Some false reports, said to have been circulated by the cabo, might have contributed. However, I shall now proceed with my journal, and leave the reader to judge. During the forenoon we were variously employed in putting away such things as we had required and got out at Santarém, reading a book that Mr. Jef- fries had lent us, which we were to leave at Mr. Gay's 348 SEIZED [Chap. XI. house at Para^ and which (books not being" numerous at Santarém^ and none other to be had) happened to be the History of the Buccaneers. Had the comman- dante mihtar known we had this book when he wrote > his charges against us to the president at Para^ it is far from improbable that he would have accused us of being- buccaneers, inasmuch as such a charge would have been quite as probable as some of those he did make. However, nothing particular took place until the evening, when the cabo^ who had been present and heard us inquire for another conveyance;, con- sidering our not having obtained one a sort of triumph_, improved on his former unaccommodating manner^ by sending his Indian cook-boy ;, whose feet were wet, and covered with soot and ashes, to walk over our beds in the cabin, where he had no business to come. This not being submitted to, he made use of language too vile to repeat, inasmuch as it was not modest, and became so thoroughly abusive that it was as thoroughly necessary to check him, which was done in a manner that had the desired effect for the time^, and the effects of which might have continued had not the change of circumstances that was about to take place favoured a repetition. Between nine and ten o'clock, Mr. Hinde and myself had gone to sleep, intending, if possible, to remain quiet until daylight, when between two and three o'clock in the morning Mr. Hinde was awakened by a noise at the entrance of the cabin, to which there were two half doors, both of them open. Chap. XL] AS PRISONERS. 349 As he awoke^ he heard some person ask the cabo the vessel's name, 'ancl^ looking up^ found we were boarded by an officer and several men^ armed with cutlasses and one or more pistols. Mr. Hinde did not immediately awake me^ nor was I aware of what was going on, until^ being roused by the in- creasing noise, I opened my eyes, found a lamp glaring directly in my face, and about a dozen cut- lasses, &c. presented at Mr. Hinde and myself^ both of us undrest. I believe the first question I asked was, ** What all the row was about?" And was answered by Mr. Hinde, that we were ^' pri- soners ;'' and so indeed it proved ; some of the party had already got inside the cabin. The officer was calling for my sword. I refused to deliver it ; but it was found, and in their possession. There was not much time for consideration^ and there were only two ways of acting, either to attempt resistance or not. The odds were incalculablv aoainst us : for if it were possible for us to beat off this party, which, under existing circumstances^ was, at least, not probable, how were we to get dow^n to Para, from which we were about six hundred miles distant? Moreover we were not authorized to carry on hostihties against the authorities of a orovernment in alUance with Great Britain, although it was pretty evident they had commenced them. The officer was at this time standing with a pistol in his hand^ pointed towards me_, and with his finger on his lip giving me to understand that if I spoke I should be shot. These 350 OFFICER'S ACCOUNT. [Chap. XI. were all persuasive sort of arguments against oifer- ing resistance^ and accordingly none was made. My sword was taken^ but not delivered ; my com- mission was demanded^ though no attempt was then made to detain it. Two sentries,, with cutlasses in their hands^ were planted at the door of the cabin^ and we were not allowed to move out before per- mission had been given by the officer of the party^ nor without a sentry following- us with a cutlass. In the mean time the vessel had been wore^ with her head up the river^ and we were to be taken before the commandante militar^ at Santarém. The con- versation that ensued between the officer, the cabo, and the party^ was perfectly ridiculous ; and, had it not been for the disgusting' idea that w^e were prisoners^ would have been highly amusing. The officer related the particulars of our being seized by order of the commandante militar^ who had declared that the peace and safety of the district depended upon our apprehension^ and had selected him to carry such a piece of service into execution^ for which he, poor fellow, probably expected a step in promotion. If so, I am sorry he had not a better opportunity to display his zeal and anxiety, although both were somewhat excessive in this case, extend- ing even to the supply of segars^ with which he had started^ and which he informed us he had smoked so furiously on his way down the river to overtake the river crafty that all were expended. The cabo was by no means deficient in great and > Chap. XL] THE CABO. 351 • gallant actions : he only wanted opportunities to dis- tinguish himself. When any of the party would lend him their swords, he brandished them with much ferocity, and it was perhaps well for our safety that the guards were present to prevent his annihilating both Mr. Hinde and mvself — we could not doubt his inclination, for he had already expressed it. As, however, the party would not at all times lend him their swords, he filled up the interval by relating to them parts of his history. He had married a mes- tiço, he said, because it was convenient ; the women at Casara managed every thing ; they went to the chacras, and attended to what was g'oing on, and he might lie in his hammock and smoke. The per- sons who appeared to suffer most next to ourselves were the Indians. Their ^^ patron," as the cabo was sometimes called, had been hitherto afiaid to say much to them, both as he did not understand how to manage the vessel, and because he was afraid they might leave him. But there was now a multiplicity of ^' patrons," and the unfortunate crew were kept at work whilst the party were lying about, except the sentries who were planted over us, and one or occasionally more hands to take care of the launch. We were confined as prisoners in the cabin in the manner I have mentioned during Friday and the following night, when, on Saturday morning, finding we should get up quicker in the launch in which the party had come down, than in the vessel, we de- 352 SANTARÉM. [Chap. XI. manded that, as we were seized by order of the comm andante militar of Santarem_, we might be taken up hi the launch with all possible expedition^ to know on what grounds he had taken such a ^ procedure. ' After making some objections, the officer com- plied, and we reached Santarém a second time about two o'clock on Saturday afternoon. Stepping out of the boat close to the commandant's house^ and the quartel (barrack or guard-house), the officer offered me my sword. This was rather too cool, surely, after its being seized ; some reasons or ex- planations were to be given before it was returned^, Iftv at least I considered it my duty to demand some^ and^ therefore^ informed the officer, that if he did not already understand it was not a trifle to seize a British officer's sword, it became my duty to make him so acquainted, and that I must receive an ex- planation from the commandante miUtar before I could accept it back. On entering the commandante's house, and meet- ing him in the same apartment where we had first seen him_, I immediately demanded whether it was by his orders we had been seized, and if so, what were his reasons ^' for having seized two British subjects as prisoners, and taken a British officer's sword ? " Whether the commandante had changed his opinion between the ordering and completion of this piece of service, or whether, on our re-appear- ance before him, he was at once convinced that we Chap. XL] ABSURD REPORTS. 353 were what we professed to be, I cannot say^ but he answered my demand in a somewhat foolish manner '^ he did not know who we were ! " He was told that was strange_, for we had presented him a passport from the Rio Neg-ro, in which it was stated^ that we were both British subjects^ and myself an officer in the British Navy. " Na vale nada,'* (not worth anything) was the reply. That was still more strange, as he had himself countersigned it ; however_, we demanded an immediate investigation^ and requested that the two Englishmen we had seen at Mr. Gay's house might be sent for as interpreters and wit- nesses. The command ante refused the investig-ation until five o'clock^ and ordered us to be taken on board the schooner until that time_, when we were to be brought on shore, by the commander of the schooner. As we were going off, we saw Mr. Jeffries on the beach. I requested he would follow us on boards as I wished to speak with him ; but on his coming alongside^ the commander of the schooner informed both him and us that no communication could be allowed without special permission from the commandante militar,, and accordingly even speaking alongside was prohibited^ until Mr. Jeffries had returned on shore and obtained permission. When admitted on board, he gave us an account of various stories that had been got up for the occasion^ and which were as absurd as they were unfounded. It was asserted that I had been seen taking a plan of an old fort that was on a hill, a short distance 2A. 354 DONA MARIA DA GLORIA [Chap. XL from the tovvn_, built^ I believe, to defend the first Portuguese settlers, or slave-hunters_, against the Indians, but which had gone to decay, grown full of bushes, the outlines beinof barely discernible, and which^ I should suppose^ had not a gun mounted. It is perhaps needless to say I had not been near the place. It was also stated^ that we had not gone on board the river craft from the town, but had embarked from a small bay or bight below the town. We were not Englishmen, and not from Peru ; with other stories of a similar cast. I requested that^ if not inconve- nient^ Mr. Jeffries would attend at the commandante militar's house at five o'clock,which he promised to do. The schooner's name was Dona Maria da Gloria^ so called^, I imagine, after the young queen of Portu- gal. She was what, using a common sea phrase, might be termed "^ a tidy little craft/' although the seamanship displayed in her fitting would perhaps scarcely have passed a survey of British boatswains ; and so much attention had been paid to the com- mander s accommodation below, that the cabin sky- light took up near the whole of the quarter-deck. She had a long gun mounted on a pivot carriage between the fore and main masts. Almost immediately after our arrival on boards a drum was beat for the crew to ^* clean arms." Whether this was intended to impress Mr. Hinde and myself with an idea of their over- whelming force, and consequently to induce a greater degree of submission on our part, or to give me, as Chap. XL] SCHOONER. 355 a naval officer, a high opinion of the schooner's state of discipline, I do not know; but from whatever cause it proceeded, I felt almost obliged to the commander for having given the order, inasmuch as it afforded me an opportunity of noticing their style of doing things, a subject that is at all times amusing to naval officers, and was particularly so to me at a time when I had not been able to get a glimpse at any thing so civilized as a man-of-war for months. Nor was the schooner without points to admire. The very act of cleaning arms, and each man cleaning his own, was, in my opinion, proper and commendable, although a better time than two or three o'clock in the afternoon might have been chosen for the opera- tion. The boats and boats' crews were clean, and the decks and men generally not dirty. There were other points that would not so well bear criticism. Commencing with the hull, the cabin skylight annihi- lated the quarter-deck, consequently required anni- hilating. The rigging was not well fitted, the seizins badly put on, 8lc. There was a want of neatness and regularity about both the decks and the crew, although they were not dirty. Trifles which, in the British navy, would have been thought not worth notice, such as annoying all kinds of river craft much in the same manner that they had annoyed us during our first visit, and even making the unfortunate canoes with mat sails lower them in passing, occupied the chief attention ; whilst speeches and actions on the part of the crew amounting pretty nearly to breaches 2 A2 356 COMMANDER OF SCHOONER. [Chap. XI. of discipline, passed unchecked. The commander appeared active, although he informed us he had been twice taken prisoner by pirates. On this point, how- ever, I cannot^ even were I so inclined_, make any remarks^ as I was then much in the same situation myself. These and similar observations afforded occupation and amusement during the time Mr. Jef- fries was absent obtaining permission to communicate with us. The commander was civil in inviting us to partake of his dinner,, apologizing that he had nothing better to offer. There was a strangeness about these persons' manner of proceeding. It was scarcely pos- sible to show better feeling than the commander of the schooner did at this moment ; yet at other times they were acting most outrageously without the slight- est cause. The evening of the following day this same officer appeared to have entered into a cabal with the commandante militar to prevent our going down to Para in the river crafty in which the most abominable chicanery was displayed. When the time arrived for us to go on shore, the commander of the schooner informed me I could not be allowed to go to the portmanteau in which my papers were, and out of which I wanted to get my commission, with some papers, to take on shore, without his being present ; accordingly, I opened it in his cabin, and in his presence. He then offered me my sword, but I repeated what I had previously said to the officer who seized us. On arrivinsT at the commandante militar's house, Chap. XL] COURT ASSEMBLED. 357 we found most of the principal authorities of the dis- trict colIected^, with several other persons, who were dismissed on our entering, and who, we afterwards understood, were to have authenticated the stories Mr. Jeffries had mentioned to us_, but whose evidence was never attempted to be brought forward in our presence. Seats were given to us, and after waiting some time for a colonel of (I believe) engineers, who^ we understood^ was on his way up the river^ with a commission to examine the state of the pueblos^, and who w^as to be one of the members of the courts the commandante militar made a speech to the court, consisting^ besides himself^ of two colonels_, one lieu- tenant-colonel; the commander of the schooner^ the juez^ and afterwards of the capitão mor, literally the chief captain, and who, we understood, commanded the regular troops. The colonels, w^ith the exception of the engineer, were officers of militia, one of them a noted gambler, who, having got possession of a considerable sum by gambling, purchased a colonel's commission. We were told that, when first promoted, this person could not sign his name, using a cross as a substitute ; but on obtaining his rank of colonel, he thought the cross did not look well, an additional cross not being generally understood to stand for colonel. He had, therefore, taken lessons in writing his name, and kept his copy-books to exhibit his pro- ficiency. He could now sign his name, with colonel at full length after it. He had also displayed consi- derable ingenuity in converting part of what he had 358 COMMANDANTE MILITAR' S SPEECH. fChap. XI. won into a silver hilted sword, with scabbard and chains to suspend it, epaulets_, &c._, of the same ma- terial. In addressing the courts the commandante militar said he had called them together to examine oilr papers. On our first arrival at Santarém we had told the commander of the schooner we came from '^ Espanha ;" but he had learnt from the cabo that we had come from ChiU^ or Mexico (which he had some difficulty in naming), or from some other place^ he did not exactly know where ! One of the colonels here observed^ he supposed the commandante militar meant from the other coast ! ''^ Yes — from the other coast!" He was then proceeding to inform them that he had dispatched a launch with a party of men in the evening after our departure^ to bring us back. When my sword was brought in and offered to me by him_, he was told an explanation was first neces- sary ; upon which he became violent, and threw the sword upon a table. This, however, was not a time to give way, and in repeating the demand for an ex- planation^ 1 placed my right foot^ though not altoge- ther intentionally, somewhat smartly on the ground; ^* Pajtente^ patente/' was the reply, meaning my com- mission. My commission was accordingly produced^ v/ith the letters I had received from the British con- suls in Lima^ and from Sir John Gordon Sinclair. On first seeing- us, after our return to Santarém, the commandante militar was evidently confounded. He had resumed a high tone when he found himself .Chap. XL] • HIS SUBTERFUGES. 359 surrounded by a court whose power and g-ay uniforms, &c., he supposed would give stability to his measures, and overwhelm us. He was now a^rain discomfited, and began to excuse himself for what had happened. He assured me my sword was not taken by his direc- tions, and declared lie had not ordered us to be taken on board the schooner, but had said we '^ mioht ao and take a walk until five o'clock." Contemptible and palpable as these declarations were^ (the order for our being taken on board had been given in our presence, and the commander of the schooner was then present as a member of the court, to contradict the commandante militar's decla- ration on that head,) I received my sword, telling the court that by whosever order it had been seized, such an occurrence did not rest with me as an indi- vidual. I should consider it my duty, as an officer in his Britannic Majesty's navy, not only to represent what had taken place to the president at Para, and to call upon the British Consul there to do so, but I should report it officially on my return to Eng- land. This intelligence appeared far from agreeable to the commandante militar, who said the court wished to examine my papers. I told him the court might take copies of all if they pleased, but that every paper must be returned. We were assured they should be returned, and told that if we would go to Mr. Gay's house, we should be sent to as soon as the papers had been considered. Accordingly, we went to Mr. Gay's house, and remained in expectation of a message. 360 MARCH OF INTELLECT. [Chap. XI. It may now be as well to give an explanation of some of the terms nsed by the commandante militar in his address to the court, in this part of Brazil^ it has been usual, when speaking of those countries that were formerly Spanish colonies^ to call them *^ Espanha." But having of late heard occasionally of the governments of Chili, Mexico^ and Colombia, many persons, and amongst that many^ evidently the commandante militar, do not know what or where these countries are. We had stated we had come from Peru : that they understood to be Espanha. But it was reported we came from Chili^ or Mexico^ or^ to use the commandante militar's expression_5 *^ some other place^ he did not exactly know where.'* However it was agreed that we had come '^ from the other coast." The conseqnence^, according to their interpretation^ was, that we could not be the persons we professed to bC;, and the ^^ peace and safety" of the district were at stake. Thus far had the *^ march of intellect" advanced in this quarter. In the evening we were called upon by another English gentleman^ named Capper_, who was also engaged in business at Santarém. He had been sent for to translate our papers^ and had been asked a number of absurd questions. The following day was Palm Sunday. We waited until after mass^ when no message being sent to us^ exactly at noon we went agaia to the commandante militar's house, to demand our papers and ask for such a passport as I Chap. XL] UNOFFICERLIKE CONDUCT. 3G1 would take us down to Para, that we had brought from the Rio Negro,, where we were informed it would take us down to Para^ having been pro- nounced '' Nao vale nada/' not to be worth any- thing. It would scarcely be proper to repeat^ even were it possible for me to remember^ all that passed upon this occasion ; indeed I have already entered more into particulars than it was my intention to have done. I shall now confine myself to stating, that the commandante militar not only broke his assurance with regard to our papers, and gave additional proofs of his ignorance and folly, but made use of language as ungentlemanly as his conduct throughout was unofficerlike. On such occasions disgust and indignation must be felt, but the more they are felt the more necessary it becomes to avoid any intemperate expression of them : had we descended with the commandante militar into a torrent of abuse, he would, in all probability, have proved the most fluent, and we should have for- feited our claims to redress. Not content with professing to doubt the seals of office of the British Admiralty, and His Majesty's consuls, with the corresponding signatures, he attempted to support himself by casting an imputation on his own govern- ment. Such things, he said, were not uncommon : a forged commission had within a few days been presented to him by a person who announced him- self to be a Brazilian officer. He was, however, told, we trusted that the time was not far distant when 362 DETENTION OF PAPERS. [Chap. XI. he would learn that such proceedings were not to be carried on with impunity against British subjects^ British officers^ and British official documents. Find- ins* there was no alternative, we returned to Mr. Gay's house, to await some further movement. Between seven and eight o'clock in the evenings Captain Falcon, the capitão mor, came to us from the commandante militar, bringing the identical passport we had at first presented from the Rio Negro, which the commandante militar^ and the commander of the schooner had both countersigned on our visit to San- tarém, and which, after having been pronounced to be ' nao vale nada,' ^ not worth any thing,' was now again given to us without the slightest alteration or addi- tion, to carry us down to Para. The other papers, including my commission, the British consuls', and Sir John Sinclair's letters, were to be inclosed and sent in charge of a serjeant to the president of Para. Thus preventing the possibility of our shewing them to any other authorities we might meet, and conse- quently annihilating even the shadow of a plea, if there ever was such a shadow, in our not having pre- sented them on our first visit. Captain Falcon said, that as he was the bearer of the passport, he would, if we chose, write an attesta- tion of the papers having been detained and sent down in charge of a serjeant to the president^ which we accepted, as it was possible such a document might be useful. He explained to us that it was not by the commandante militar's directions he wrote this N .Chap. XI.] FURTHER PROCEEDINGS. 363 attestation_, but of his own free will. Perhaps he wished to clear himself of his part of the assurance which we had required of the court when the papers were left in their hands : whatever was the cause^ the attestation was given in a handsome manner, and throughout^ this officer proved himself a very superior character to the commandante militar. On taking leave, he told us that the river craft which had arrived during the day was again ready to starts and we might go on board as soon as we were ready. We lost no time in going down to the beach, where another act of this disgusting drama commenced. On the beach we met the commander and several persons belonging to the schooner^ with whom was the cabo of the river craft, so drunk that he could scarcely stand, but vociferating that we should not go in his vessel without a guards as he was afraid of us. This was a wide change from the desperate ferocity he had displayed when we were prisoners,, with sen- tries over us. But whether it proceeded from a con- sciousness of his own deserts, or from any plan^, I do not know^ except that there was much the appearance of the latter. If so^ it failed^ for the stimulus the cabo had taken to carry him through, had made him insensible. We went on board the schooner to show our passport, and demand my portmanteau^ which was still on board. The commander refused to de- liver the portmanteau, saying, that his orders were to deliver it to me on board the river craft. He then manned one of his boats, and went on shore to see 364 FURTHER PROCEEDINGS. [Chap. XI. the commandante militar. We shoved off nearly at the same time to go on board the river craft, but when about half way between her and the schooner we were hailed from the latter^ and desired not to go on board. We immediately pushed for the com- mandante militar's house^ to ask whether it was by his orders these manoeuvres were carrying on. Be- fore we reached the shore^ the commander of the schooner pulled past us, coming from another part of the beach, and landed in great haste near the com- mandante's house. We observed him speak to the officer of the guards whilst we were inquiring whether the commandante militar was in his house,, which he was not^ and on our moving forward to look for him or the capitão mor at some of the other houses, the officer of the guard informed us his orders were not to let us land ; that we must go on board the river craft. He was told that was exactly where we wanted to go, but that we had just been hailed from the schooner^ and desired not to go on board. The officer of the guard appeared surprised, shrugged up his shoulders^ and we passed on. The capitão mor was not to be found ; in all probability he was disgusted, and kept out of the way. We went to a house where several of the prin- cipal people were collected^ but the commandante militar was not amongst them. The commander of the schooner came out and asked what it was we wanted ? — we said to know whether we were or were not to go on board the river craft: we had been N Chap. XL] COMMANDANTE MILITAR. 3G5 directed by the capitão mor to go on board, and had been hailed from the schooner and desired not to g-o ? He appeared confused, and said he had not left those orders. He then offered to take us on board the river craft, and his offer was, of course, accepted. Going towards the beach we passed a group of white men, who saluted us with a ^' viva," which I returned. As soon as we were on board the river craft I again demanded my portmanteau, the com- mander of the schooner having previously said his orders were to deliver it to me when on board, he now refused to do so, and went on shore. In a short time he returned with the commandante militar, who, finding his schemes had failed, professed to have come '^ to set all matters right." By way of affording him one opportunity, I repeated the demand for my portmanteau, which was at length delivered. The cabo was at this time lying brutally drunk on the top of the hold, occasionally raising his head to ejaculate some brutal expressions, one of which he was pleased to apply to fes. I took the liberty of pointing this out to the commandante militar, who declared such conduct was improper, and that ^' if he was a Brazilian, he would not act as he does." Having given some directions to the serjeant who had charge of our papers, and being ready to go on shore, the commandante militar offered me his hand. It is perhaps needless to say it was not accepted, and he walked over the side, telling the serjeant '^ not to suppose he was afraid." 366 THE SERJEANT. [Chap. XI. Mr. Jeffries had come off with us, in the canoe in which we first left the beach^ accompanied by a young man, who was a friend of his and a BraziUan : they did not leave us until towards midnight^ when N finding there was no appearance of further move- ments on the part of the authorities, and that they could not render us any service or assistance by re- maining, they returned on shore, receiving our best thanks for their attention. About two o'clock in the morning of Monday, 31st March, the vessel's anchor was again weighed, and we were beginning to drift, when we were again hailed from the schooner, and desired to anchor. The order was obeyed ; but the serjeant, putting on his accoutrements, went in the montaria to the schooner. In a short time he returned, and the vessel being once more got under weigh, we pro- ceeded. Fortunately for us_, this serjeant, who be- longed to the militia, and was, we understood^ son of the late juez of Santarém, proved to be one of the most respectable persons we met with during our passage. He not only attended to his duty without noise, but never attempted to give us the least trou- ble the whole of the way down to Para. On the con- trary, he was rather a check upon the cabo. The idea of his having our papers, especially my com- mission, in his charge, was vexatious, but that was not his fault. One consequence of the commandante militar's proceedings towards us was, that we became better Chap. XL] DESCRIPTION OP SANTARÉM. 3G7 acquainted with Santarém than we otherwise should have been. I shall, therefore^ endeavour to give some description of the ^' villa/* although I cannot add a '"^ plan of the fort." Santarém is, I think^ not quite as large^ but more regularly built than the Barra of the Rio Negro. There are several streets, the houses of which join, and are of nearly equal dimensions. That in which Mr. Jeffries was living formed one of several, belonging, I believe, to the same person, and having a commu- nication throughout, by means of large doors, so that, by opening these doors, which were merely locked and bolted, the whole of one side of the street would form but one house, although the yards or inclosures behind them were distinct. The streets are broad, but not long, and are not paved. The houses are tiled, and most of them whitewashed, or coloured a light drab or yellow. The church, which stands near the beach, is large, and well though plainly built, with two small square towers. The quartel and the commandante militar's house stand opposite to each other, forming the corners of a street one way, and facing the beach the other. We were told of a circumstance relatinof to the quartel, that appeared to us, as Englishmen, rather odd. The commandante militar, wishing to embellish this place without having means of doing so, came to a determination that every person who was found out of his house after a certain hour on a certain night should be seized and put in confine- 368 DESCRIPTION OF SANTARÉM. [Chap. XI. ment until he contributed a certain sum^ which I think was a milrei (five or six shillings^ according* to the rate of exchange^ which was accordingly done, no notice being given, lest the object should be defeated. The sum raised the first night not amounting to what the comma ndante militar wished, another attempt was made on the following night ; but the people were on their guards and few were caught. We inquired whether it was contrary to the regulations of the place to be abroad after the hour this measure was carried into effect. No^ it was considered the best way of getting the money. What was almost as strange;, we were told it was usual to go round asking for subscriptions, provi- sions_, &c. for the schooner. There are horses at Santarém, and there are said to be cattle on some plains distant about a day's journey in the interior^ away from the river. A commerce is carried on between Santarém and Para in small schooners and river craft, several of which belong to British merchants : there is also a traffic up the Tapajós, Mr. Capper went up with some canoes^ whilst we were at Santarém. Not much of novelty or interest occurred during the remainder of our passage ; I shall therefore not annoy my readers by dwelling on the disgust we felt whilst shut up in this miserable river craft, under all our peculiar circumstances^ but convey them^ as I would, if possible, have conveyed myself, briefly to Para. Chap. XL] GURUPA. 369 On the right bank of the Maranon^ not far below Santarem_, a range of low hills forms a crescent con- vexing to the southward. Further down the river, on the left bank, are some higher^ abrupt, and dis- joined hills. It is remarkable that the summits of these latter hills, when of a certain height^ form an inclined plane, sloping to the eastward, whilst the tops of those that do not reach this height are craggy and pointed. The river continued of great widths and bearing about E.N.E. until Thursday evening, the 3d of Aprils when we entered a narrow channel, between the right bank and what must have been an extremely long island, as we did not get out of the narrow passage until the following morning: we then, I believe, passed the mouth of the river Xingu, com- ing from the southward ; and in the afternoon ar- rived at Gurupa, one of the oldest stations or settle- ments in this part of Brazil. We anchored in a small bay formed by a steep point, with a gravelly beach under it. A person, who appeared to be an alferez, came off in a canoe to examine our pass- ports with the vessel's papers, and we afterwards landed to get them countersigned by the comman- dante. This officer appeared both to understand and attend to his duty. He received us with civility and offered us refreshments, but he was particular in examining both our passport and the cabo's. papers. The latter required some time to arrange, and whilst 2 B '^"70 MARAJÓ. [Chap. XI. enofaofed about them the commandante offered us a book^ containing- a Portuguese translation of one of Mr. Pitt's speeches, in which he had foretold or advised the removal of the royal family of Portugal to Brazil^ in case the war then carrying on in Europe should prove unsuccessful, and in which the river Maraiion_, or Amazons^ was mentioned. This speech was here considered extraordinary^, and was much admired. Gurupa consists of one long street running parallel to the bank of the river; several of the houses are shaded by orange trees^ but its appear- ance is not flourishing^ although it has been long considered a place of importance. After leaving Gurupa, I do not think we at any time saw the left bank of the Maranon. On Saturday evening, the 5th of April, we left the main channel of the river_, and entered some narrow passages, forming wdiat I conceive to be a delta. It appeared to me that the MaranoU;, after being joined by the Xingu above Gurupa, takes a more northerly direc- tion^ until meeting with opposition from some large islands^ part of its waters are turned towards the s.e., and form what is called the island of Marajó. This delta land, however_, like that of the Irrawaddy, and I believe of other large rivers^ is intersected by innu- merable creeks or nullahs, and it was amongst these we entered, not keeping the principal s.e. channel. It is impossible for me to give a particular descrip- tion of these passages, or of their bearings. They are so numerous, so winding, and so much alike. ^ Chap. XL] RESISTOS. 371 that even the Indians are obliged to leave old clothes or rags on the branches of trees at certain points, in order to know their way. Immediately on entering these passages, and consequently getting out of the main current of the river, the effects of the tide be- came evident. There was at first a rise and fall of about a foot and a half, or two feet, increasing as we passed down. The third or fourth day there was a rise and fall of four or five feet, with regular ebb and flood currents. In proceeding amongst these pas- sages we occasionally saw chacras or engenhos, with sugar plantations, in which the cane was then cutting. Some of the buildings were in the European style, and white-washed ; whilst others were raised on piles in the Burman manner. We passed several patches of sugar-cane without any building near them, the jungle having been cleared away, and the cane planted, apparently without much care or attention. We stopped at two ^ resistos,' places at which an officer and a few soldiers are stationed to examine boats, canoes, or river craft passing up or down. These are certainly about the last places a civilized being would wish to be stationed at. At the first resisto, consisting of a few mud huts, one of which was for the officer, after our passport and the cabo's papers had been examined and countersigned, and the vessel searched by two soldiers to see that there were no persons stowed away, the cabo was again summoned on shore, and asked if he had not brought some salt fish? This was probably intended as a 2b2 ^"72 BAY OF LIMOEIRO. [Chap. XI. hint that some would be acceptable, but he declined presenting any. A difficulty was then made respect- ing- our passport. We went again on shore, when the officer finding we should not quietly submit to be ^ trifled with, acknowledged that all was correct. The officer of the second '^ resisto ' was also proprietor of the engenho where it was fixed; he had^ however^ stationed his men in a large shed built in the jungle on the opposite side of the channel, probably not wishing for their more immediate neighbourhood. Their appearance was certainly not the most amiable, rather resembling that of Salvator Rosa's figures than European soldiers, but in such a situation they could not easily be otherwise. Shortly after leaving the second resisto, about noon, on Sunday the 13th i of Aprils we came to an open place called the Bay | of Limoeiro, formed by the waters of the great river Tocantins, coming from the southward and rushing I across the secondary passages of the Maranon : the i banks in this bay are so numerous, and the water so ' shallow, that the passage is considered dangerous, \ and the river craft was anchored in the mouth of a small creek to wait a favourable opportunity for crossmg. The united waters of the Tocantins and smaller passages of the Maranon here take a northerly direc- tion, and it is on the right or eastern bank of this branch that the city of Para is situated. During the time we were waiting in the creek, the Indians amused themselves by ranging in the woods. Chap. XL] INDIANS. 373 and by gathering small shell-fish at low water. Dur- ing the flood-tides^ since entering the narrow pas- sages, when the vessel was brought- to^ they had made a practice of going into the woods to cook^, &c._, and if possible they got hold of narrow creeks, into which they could push their montaria, and for whicli they appeared to have a special regard, never passing any without remarking it. On these cooking occasions, they frequently brought oil' things they had found — sometimes cabbage palms ; sometimes a fibrous kind of aquatic plant, which they stretched to make covers for hats ; once they caught a large grey sloth, the body of which equalled that of a terrier in size. This animal they ate after keeping it alive one day, and annoying it by various tricks. At other times they would jump overboard when the vessel was under weigh, and swim after large red palm nuts that were floating. These palm nuts were marked exter- nally somewhat like fir apples, and had a fleshy sub- stance, which the Indians ate. However agreeable the stoppages might be to the crew, they were far from agreeable to us, shut up in a river craft, where we could not take exercise, and with the disgusting recollections of what had happened, our papers still detained, &c. : moreover, with all the little dirty annoyances that the cabo could occasion, and which we could not altogether avoid, although he was kept at a distance. AVe had long been obliged to cook our own provisions, and even to make the fire, the Indian boy, who was now in M 374 CROSS THE BAY. [Chap. XI. an advanced stage of inflammation at the chest with fever_, in consequence of his master's amiable treat- ment, and to whom Mr. Hinde humanely gave a blanket,, having been told not to cook for us. Whether from mismanagement or not, we re- mained at anchor two days^ when two river craft joined company and showed us the way across. The creek appeared to be a general rendezvous for vessels about to cross the bay : the manner of crossing is by hauling out to stakes^ fixed abreast of the en- trance of the creek^ for the purpose of enabling vessels to warp over some of the shoalest banks, which is done at about three-quarters flood, and then by making sail close to the wind on the larboard tack. On our reaching what had appeared to be the opposite side of the bay, and which was about two leagues from the creek we had been laying in, we found that it was only a long island with nearly as broad, and a deeper part of the bay between it and the right bank. Taking in the sail off" the point of the island, we pulled to windward, with the tide in our favour, and after dark anchored in an inlet of the island, where the other river craft also brought to. Early in the morning, we again made sail across the bay, on the larboard tack, and reached a broad opening in the right bank : a little before low water, we anchored abreast some fishing stakes, about which several persons were engaged fishing, with canoes in attendance. As soon as the flood tide made, we again proceeded, accompanied by the other river Chap. XI.] S.ANNA. 375 craft, and numerous fishing canoes, we soon entered a narrow winding* channel ; and went with the flood until we met with the ebb, which being also in favour at the point we had then reached, we proceeded until about seven o'clock in the eveniiiof, when we left this channel, and entered another, in which the ebb tide was against us ; we, therefore, anchored, waiting for the flood to carry us to S. Anna. We had now got amongst a more numerous popu- lation ; in the course of the day, we had passed several large chacras, or ^' engenhos, '' with chapels attached to them. The large pueblo of Camuta also, which has lately become notorious in Para for its disturbances, is situated up the Tocantins, not far from where we crossed the bay of Limoeiro : what was rather an extraordinary sight, we passed a canoe made fast to a tree, whilst a man, to whom appa- rently it belonged, was sleeping in a hammock suspended to two trees over the water ; had the canoe broke adrift, he must have slept on until assistance came to him, or have swam in search of it. We arrived at S. Anna between three and four o'clock in the morning, and brought to, to shew our passports ; we afterwards waited until half flood, on account of some banks that were at a short distance below, and over which it w^is said the river craft could not pass until about half flood. The pueblo of S. Anna is small, but neat in com- parison to most of the stations on the Maranon ; 376 IGARAPÉ MERIM. [Chap. XL the church is large and well built : whilst waiting for the tide, we saw a procession to place a corpse, that had come in a boat from some neighbouring chacra^, in the church ; the body would, we under- stood^ be left there for the day previous to being interred. After leaving S. Anna, the channel became still narrower and more windings having the name of ^^ igarapé merim/' which _, I believe, signifies " the little passage." About four in the afternoon we came to a small canal_, about three-quarters of a mile in length, cut for the purpose of forming a communication with the river Moju. At the en- trance of the canal we found some other river craft waiting for a favourable time of tide to warp through, which we now proceeded to do in succession^ and then passed down the Moju^ which might be about a quarter of a mile in breadth^ its waters dark coloured and apparently deep. The following mornings we were proceeding with a fine strong- tide in favour^ passing several engenhos, with good- looking houses, and sugar mills attached to them^ the other two river craft in company ; when_, between ten and eleven o'clock, we arrived off the entrance of a creek^ and anchored. It appeared the cabo had some friends to visit, and we must wait his will and pleasure as to the time of proceedings although it was distinctly understood, on taking our passage at the Rio Negro^ that such delays were not to take place. The other river craft were soon out of sight^ Chap. XL] SUGAR MILLS. 377 and we remained at anchor until the evening, when the cabo made his appearance, and we again got under weigh. Near the creek off which we had anchored^ and at a short distance from the bank of the river, was a large house two stories high, with circular v/indows at the s.E. end. This house was built in a superior European style, and there was a large sugar mill attached to it. The sugar mills here are worked by horses. vi> 378 CHAPTER XIL Arrive at Para — Application to the President — Investigation — Commandante Militar of Santarém suspended — Vice-consul — Mr. Campbell — British mer- chants — Foreign consuls — Capt. Welch — General das Armas — Colonel of engineers — Former president — Invitations — Deaths — Black On(ja — Ball — Baron and Baroness de Baje — French surgeon — Specimens Tapir — Embark in Brig Douglas for England — Remarks on banks, &c. — Extracts from' Douglas' log — Joiurnal ends. Early on Saturday morning, the 19th of April_, we had the satisfaction of seeing the city of Para_, and I had still further satisfaction in observing a frigate at anchor. My wishes at first led me to hope that she might prove to be one of His Britannic Ma- jesty's vessels, not only as her presence might be desirable, in case obstacles should be opposed to the representations that were to be made, but as I would gladly have had a senior and superior officer present^ to testify that my conduct on the occasion probably about to take place,, was not unworthy the character of an officer in that profession to which I feel it an honour to belong. The frigate proved to be His Imperial Majesty's ship Thetis^ and from Captain Welch, who commanded her^ I subsequently received every mark of the kindest attention ; nor was the presence of any of His Majesty's vessels needed to obtain that attention to our representa- Chap. XIL] PARA. 379 tions^ which it will be found the just feeling of the Baron de Baje, the President, fully granted. Indeed, after we had landed at Para, and the particulars of our case were known, we had little cause to com- plain of inattention. Our own countrymen, at the head of whom was Mr. Hesketh, His Majesty's Vice-Consul, overwhelmed us with kindness and in- vitations; in which they were joined by Mr. Allen, Consul for the United States ; whilst the principal natives appeared to vie with them in endeavouring to efface the impressions we had received up the river, particularly at Santarém. The most marked attention awaited us from the president downwards ; but I have gone rather beyond the current of my journal. In passing through the shipping, I hailed an English merchant brig, called the Regatta, of Liver- pool, the mate of which, at my request, took charge of a letter I had written to His Majesty's consul, whoever he might be, informing him of what had taken place, and requesting that he would meet me at the president's house, in order that a representa- tion might be made to the president. As soon as the vessel had anchored, we landed and went up to the palace, as we found the presi- dent's residence was designated. Some troops were parading in front of the palace, and we met the president with his orderly officer on the stairs, going to attend the junta. He stopped for a moment to speak with us, but said he could not remain, and 380 PARA. [Chap. XII. told US to go to the secretary,, whom we should find in his office in the palace ; accordingly we did so. The secretary received us civilly^ and we were explaining what occurred, when Mr. Hesketh^ His Majesty's Vice-Consul came in^ and I then gave him a more full account than had been contained in my letter. Finding that nothing could be done until the President returned from the junta^ which would be about two o'clock in the afternoon, it was arranged that we should return at that time^ and we left the palace with the Vice-Consul. Mr. Hesketh introduced us to Mr. James Camp- bell^ one of the earliest British residents in Para, and the head of one of the principal houses. Mr. Campbell^ with that hospitality for which he is celebrated in Para^ immediately gave us an invita- tion to take up our quarters in his house^ which we were of course glad to accept. It is right to mention that Mr. Hesketh^ having married a Brazi- lian lady^ and his house being at a short distance in the country^ he could not well offer us accommoda- tion^ nor would it have been so convenient to us. At two o'clock we returned to the palace^ and had an interview with the president. He listened atten- tively to the account of what had occurred, then said it would be necessary the ouvidor (the judge of the district) should examine our papers, and that as soon as he reported them to be correct^ he, the president^ would endeavour to do what was right in the matter. The vice-consul was called upon to answer for our Chap. XII.] PARA. . 381 not leaving' Para clandestinely. From the palace we went to the ouvidor^ who in a civil manner asked a variety of questions, taken chiefly from a letter written by the commandante militar of Santarém, in which he had preferred charges against us to the president. These charges were of a similar nature to the reports circulated at Santarém, and were so absurd as to excite laughter in the pre- sident's orderly oiFicer, who had accomprnied us, and indeed in the whole party. The orderly officer had been at Santarém, and, therefore, knew the folly of the idea of taking a plan of the fort. One of the charges was, that I had asked the names of some rivers or trees, which the ouvidor observed it was ridiculous his noticing. The most weighty charges were, endeavouring to shew that my com- mission was not correct ; but the ouvidor did not repeat all. The vice-consul was requested to state, in writing-, that he believed our documents to be correct, and that we were the persons we pro- fessed to be, and the ouvidor then declared himself satisfied. After this process had been gone through, the vice- consul wrote officially to the president, complaining of the outrage that had been committed, and requir- ing that our papers might be given up after they had been duly examined. On Monday he received an answer from the president, announcing that the commandante militar was suspended from his com- mand, and that our papers having been examined 382 PARA. fChap. XII. by the competent authorities^ and found to be correct, might be sent for, at the secretary's office. I had considered that until my commission and other documents were officially acknowledged to be correct, and by their being returned, ourselves re- cognized as the persons we professed to be, it was my duty not to call upon any one. We now waited on the president, accompanied by the vice-consul, to pay our respects. We were graciously received, and at this interview I begged leave to explain to the president that, however we might regret being connected with so unpleasant an affair as the busi- ness at Santarém, I felt that, after the proceedings which had taken place, I should have been myself culpable had I not used every means in my power to obtain redress, or neglected to call upon the British vice-consul to apply officially to him as president. That, in fact, on my return to England I might have been deemed unworthy of wearing a sword, or bearing a commission, the honour and correctness of which I was not capable of maintain- ing. The president, with much good feeling, said, he reofretted that such an occurrence should have taken place, but that he considered I had acted correctly in applying to him for redress : then offer- ing me his hand, which I of course accepted, we bowed and took our leave. I afterwards called on Captain Welch, of the Brazilian frigate Thetis, senior officer of his Imperial Majesty's navy at Para. On my informing him of > Chap. XII.l PARA. 383 the reasons for not having- called upon him sooner, he also expressed regret at what had happened, and whenever we afterwards met, which was almost every day during- our stay at Para, he took every opportunity of shewing- me the kindest attention. We called with Mr. Campbell on the British mer- chants, the United States and French consuls, the ouvidor, the general das armas, and several of the principal natives. We also paid a visit to the colonel at the head of the engineer department, who was an elderly Frenchman : we found him busily employed endeavouring to make a map of the Maranon from some large manuscript plans, that differed from each other widely, and not any of them entirely correct. The old gentleman was, as may be supposed, not a little puzzled. I pointed out one or two errors, but told him it was not in my power to offer him much particular information, as the circumstances under which I had been placed had prevented the possibility of my making many astronomical observations, even had my instruments remained uninjured and been sufficient. He was fully aware that it was no easy matter to make a survey of a river like the Maranon, and said he was only surprised that we should have got through, adding, that a French officer, — I think he said a colonel, — had lately been murdered in attempting to get across from Guyana. His instruments, like him- self, were not of the most modern date, and somewhat the worse for wear ; and as he was in want of a 384 PARA. [Chap. XII. quicksilver artificial horizon^ which he could not get in Para, I presented him with mine, which was a very good one by Jones. The former president had a house in a distant part of the suburbs, and we went out to pay our respects to him. He was engaged fitting up his new resi- dence^ superintending' the varnishing of doors, &c. The rooms were not large_, but neat, and contained some books. He received us with civility^ making inquiries as to the state of the country up the river, when I did not fail to express my opinion respecting the slave-hunting system, and also of the old padre's meritorious exertions at the new pueblo. He said that during the time he was president, information was sent to him from another quarter, that if a supply of tools, &c., were furnished, a settlement of Indians might be formed, and he had accordingly sent a sup- ply, when a settlement was formed ; but the presi- dent of some other province, conceiving he had in- terfered with his district, remonstrated. He then sent an account of his proceedings on the subject to the emperor, who approved of what he had done. The former president appeared in some respects to be a man of ability, but I should think liable to be misled. Invitations to parties now began to pour in upon us so thickly, that we were obliged, in self-defence, (not being in stout health,) to decline some of them. We were living with Mr. Campbell, of whose, and of his large family circle's, attention to us I cannot speak > Chap. XII.] PARA. 385 too hi^hly^ and I trust shall not soon become forget- ful. Our first invitation was to dine with Mr. Hes- keth_, the vice-consul^ when we were introduced to Mrs. Hesketh, her mother, and an unmarried sister, who lived with them. Mrs. Hesketh had been, and still was, pretty, and appeared much attached to her husband. Unfortunately for me the ladies spoke no- thing" but Portuguese, which I do not profess to be master of, and was therefore obliged to converse more with my countrymen. The ladies, however, were not wanting in attendants, particularly the un- married sister, who had a variety of beaux, whom she managed rather skilfully, noticing their atten- tions more or less, according as superior favourites were absent or present. From what I afterwards heard and saw, I suspect a brother of Mr. Camp- bell was the prime favourite, although lameness, from an accident, prevented his being of the party. The young lady had taught herself to play on the piano, on which she performed with a consi- derable degree of taste, accompanying the instrument with her voice. The dinner was sumptuous, and a variety of rich wines were on the table ; but there was one dish, which, although it was considered a luxury, did not accord with my taste — it was a stew made out of a land tortoise. Such a mess might be well enough up the Maranon, in lieu of a dried mon- key, but where ^ carne vaca,' roast beef, was to be had it did not appear to me desirable. Mr. Hesketh's house has no second story, but is well built, contain- 2 c 386 PARA. [Chap. XII. ing several large well-finished rooms, with a broad veranda on two sides^ which_, in a climate like Para^ is a most desirable appendage. Between the house and the road is a large lawn^ that keeps the former sufficiently retired ; there is also a garden in which Mr. Hesketh amuses himself, having a taste for botany. Within a day or two after our dining with Mr. Hesketh, as we were sitting at dinner at Mr. Camp- bell's, a girl about ten or twelve years of age, daughter of Mr. Gay, an English merchant^ to whom Mr. Jeffiies acted as agent at Santarém^ and who had died only a few days previous to our reach- ing Para^ came running into the room crying^ saying her little sister was just dead. We had seen the child since our arrival, when it appeared not to be unwell, though delicate. It had been slightly in- disposed that day and the day before, but went off in a convulsion. It may be imagined what must have been the mother's feelings, at losing her hus- band and her infant within so short a period ; nor were these the only sufferings she had to struggle with, Mr. Gay not having left her in affluent cir- cumstances. The attention of Mr. Campbell and his circle were not wanting on the occasion, and as I had nothing in particular to occupy my attention, I sat up with Mr. Henderson, a young man in Mr. Campbell's house, to watch the body ; the following day it was buried in its father's grave, in a piece of ground cleared away in the jungle, and allotted as an English or Protestant burial-ground. Most of the Chap. XII.] PARA. 387 merchants attended^ and the funeral service was read by one of the oldest residents, Mr. Hesketh, who, as vice-consul^ generally officiates, being too unwell to attend. There had been several deaths within a short time^ another British merchant, and the master of an English merchant brig, having died about the same time as Mr. Gay. Para is not, however, considered an unhealthy place ; it had been long since so many deaths had occurred before these took place, and Mr. Campbell assured me he never was so well as in Para. Mr. Gay had left a small place called a rosa, about two miles from the city ; it consisted of a building, containing two rooms, with a large and broad veranda, cooking place, a garden, and thirty or forty acres of ground planted with a few coffee shrubs, but intended principally for himself and his family to go out to occasionally. This place had been purchased by Mr. Williams, one of the English merchants, and a large party was invited to go out to breakfast on Sunday _, when there was no mercan- tile business to attend to, and pass the day. Most or all of the merchants, with the captain of the frigate, and Mr. Allen, consul of the United States, were of the party. We rode out early in the morning, and after breakfasting in the veranda, separated, each to amuse themselves as they thought proper. In the course of the day I joined a party to walk through the woods to a country house belonging to Mr. Pombo^ one of the principal landed proprietors in 2 C 2 388 PARA. [Chap. XII this part of Brazil_, and which was about a mile from the rosa. The house was only one story high_, and the rooms not well finished or in order, beinsf unoccupied^ but the building- covered an immense space of ground, in the shape of a hollow square ; there were verandas and a chapel in the house ; the garden was in tolerable order, and was stocked with veg-etables, guavas, fig trees, and, I believe, other fruits. Three English merchant brigs were lying in the port, waiting for cargoes to sail for England. The Dguglas, one of them which was consigned to Mr. Williams's house, was partly laden, and would sail first; we, therefore, made arrangements with the master of her, for taking- our passage. She was not large, being about a hundred and forty-five tons ; moreover, her cargo being principally cocoa and copaiba, would not be the most agreeable, from the heat and smell that the former occasions below% and the state in which the latter makes the decks, coming up with the bilge-water through the pumps. However, the master expressed a wish to do all in his power to make us comfortable, and we were not inclined to raise difficulties. Mr. Campbell's establishment consisted, besides himself, of two brothers and some young men, who acted as cash-keeper and clerks ; there was also a Brazilian clerk, to carry on business with some of the natives. With the enterprise of a British merchant, Mr. Campbell had pushed his negotiations up the Chap. XII.] PARA. 389 Maranon and some of its nearer tributaries^ and had even been himself as far as the Rio Negro^ but such was the want of a regular communication^ that his returns were uncertain, and some of his specula- tions had not proved beneficial in consequence. It was a favourite subject with Mr. Campbell to point out and contrast what the coimtry might be, from its natural capabilities^ with its present state. He had^ I believe, began to curtail his connections, although he had still several I'iver crafty which he sent to traffic in different directions. When on his excur- sion up the river he had got a young black onça^ or tiger ; at that time it was^ 1 believe^ about the size of a cat, and on being brought down to Para used to run about the house, but when we saw it, it was a most formidable animal. I am not sure that it had the length of limb of a Bengal tiger, but was thicker, and, I think, would have weighed more. When lying down there appeared to be scarcely any leg, but its thigh was like an immense ham. Its muscular power was extraordinary. It would frequently lie upon its back, with its head and all four feet turned upwards. On one of these occasions I was standinof in a gallery, looking at it^ when a terrier passed by. The tiger saw the dog and sprung at him directly from his back^ apparently without turning. Fortunately the dog saw him coming, and got out of his reach, being accustomed to keep at a respectful distance. The tiger, however, occasionally made a meal off animals that were not aware of his powers. My 390 PARA. [Chap. XII. unfortunate parrot Faraway flew down his throat one day, almost without notice. We were told of a circumstance that had occurred a short time before^ when the tiger g-ot hold of a pig and carried it off to its den. Every exertion was made to release the grunter, but in vain^ until a Newfoundland bitch, of which the tiger had been afraid when] youngs was called. The bitch immediately rushed into the den, when strange as it may appear, the tiger offered no resistance^ threw himself on his back as if afraid, and the pig was rescued. The tiger could easily have destroyed the Newfoundland at this time. This tremendous animal was confined only by a collar round the neck, and a chain not so stout as those I have known broke by Newfoundland dogs. His den was much like a large dog-kennel^ and was placed in the yard^ through which people were con- stantly passing and repassing. What was most strange, the young men not unfrequently amused themselves by kicking him^ which to be sure pro- duced no great sensation of pain on his part ; if he got sulky he was broomsticked, but if savage^ it was necessary to keep out of his way, as he certainly might have broken his chain had he exerted himself. One night, after coming from a party, nothing would serve the young men but they would take a candle and burn the tiger's whiskers or mustachios, which they did to his annoyance. For my own part I am not ashamed to say, that having no gladiator pro- pensities, unless absolutely necessary, I always kept > Chap. XII.] PARA. 391 at a respectful distance from the tig-er, excepting one day, when^ thinking- about something, I walked within his range ; he then civilly let me pass ; and I did not again trespass on his goodnature. My business usually was to remonstrate against the young men's proceedings, and to recommend a stronger chain. The tiger was washed every morn- ing by a negro^ and appeared to like the water be- ing thrown over him, his usual noise resembling the mewing of a cat, though not so loud. His manner of seizing his food was terrific. He was well fed, which probably prevented him from doing more mischief. One of Mr. Campbell's brothers had two young kings of the vultures that were chained by the leg to a pole, placed lengthways, and supported by two others driven into the ground. One of these birds fell from his perch whilst we were at Para, and not being able to regain it, died before he was seen. We continued to receive numerous invitations. Mr. Allen, the United States consul, gave a dinner to a large party. Mr. Dickinson, formerly His Majesty's vice-consul, who has purchased an engenho at a short distance up the river, to the cultivation of which he now attends, also gave us an .invitation. Mr. Dickinson has married a Brazilian lady. Her sister is the widow of an English merchant, and lives with them. We dined a second time at Mr. Hesketh's, and called frequently when returning from riding in an evening. On one of these occasions 1 was talking 392 PARA. [Chap. XII to Mr. Hesketh respecting snakes^ with which he said his lawn and garden were infested^ and on the following morning he sent me a snake upwards of seven feet long, which had been killed in his chil- dren's nursery during the night. On another occasion I was walking in the veranda and holding a conversation with Captain Welch of the Brazilian frigate^ when we heard a sudden exclamation in the room where the ladies were sitting with their beaux, and on looking^ saw the ladies rush out of the room and the gentlemen arm themselves with chairs, &c. with which they began hammering at something on the floor. It appeared that a little boy who was lying on a sofa^ had called to his mother that a coral snake^ which is considered venomous^ had crawled into the room close to where they were sitting. I happened to have a whip in my hand, with which I had been riding, aild with which execution was soon performed. The ladies returned, the snake was deposited in a bottle of spirits, and is now in the museum of the Zoolo- gical Society. During our stay at Para, a ball was given in honour of the Baron de Baje, who had only lately arrived in the Thetis as president. I thought it right to attend, and was complimented by having the card or ticket given me for opening the ball with a Bra- zilian lady- This attention was not offered by our own countrymen, but by one of the natives who acted as master of the ceremonies,, and was evidently in- > Chap. XII.] PARA. 393 tended to efface any disagreeable recollections that might remain as to our treatment up the river. The ball was well attended ; both the new and the former presidents were present, with the general das armas, and the captain of the frigate, from whom here, as well as elsewhere, I received the most marked atten- tion. During the evening one of the officers of the frigate danced a hornpipe^ and a lady^ who was re- markable for her superior style of dancing, played on a piano, and sang with considerable effect. At the ball the president gave me an invitation to dine at the palace in company with the captain of the frigate. On going with Captain Welch to the palace^ we found the baron transacting business with the former president and some other person, and they continued occupied for near an hour ; after which we were in- troduced to the baroness and her daughters^ and sat down to table ; but in the middle of dinner an official letter was brought to the president^ who immedi- ately rose to attend to it. In a distant province like Para^ especially with an insufficient communication with the emperor and the capital_, much must depend upon the person at the head of the provincial government ; and we had seen and heard sufficient^, both on our way down the Ma- raiion^, and since our arrival in the city, to convince us_, that whoever held the appointment of president of Para^ if he attended to his duty^ had no sine- cure office. On this subject I may venture to say more hereafter ; at present I will repeat two anec- 394 PARA. [Chap. XII. dotes of circumstances that had occurred since our arrival^ and which_, though in themselves trifling, were much talked of, and served to show that the Baron de Baje intended to apply himself to the duties of his office, and to keep all parties at a distance,, which some of the former presidents had perhaps not sufficiently done. A few days after the baron's arrival he was called upon by some person, supported by all the atten- dance of dress and equipage. The baron received the gentleman, when after a little conversation the latter proposed that a mutual visiting intercourse should take place between their families. He was thanked for his kind intentions, but told, that he^ the president, found his time would be so much taken up in attending to his official occupations, and indeed that he supposed the time of most gentlemen in Para must also be much occupied, that he felt it would bfe inconvenient to both parties^ and therefore must de- cline the offer. Shortly afterwards some other person got a fine and scarce fish, peculiar to the Maranon, which he placed on a dish covered with napkins, and orna- mented with ribbons, and sent it by a servant to the palace. The fish was taken to the baron, who thought it a very fine one, and sent for the baroness to look at it. After they had both admired it, the baron desired the napkins might be again laid over^ and the whole returned, with his com.pliments to the gentleman who had sent it. The bearer explained M Chap. XII.] PARA. 395 that it was intended the president should keep the fish ; but the baron, saying that could only be a mis- take, bid him take it back_, with the president's com- pliments^ to his master^ and he was obliged by having been allowed to see so fine a fish. In his manner, the Baron de Baje is both a gentle- man and a nobleman ; in his official capacity^ he is said to be somewhat haughty. In Mr. Hinde's and my own affair we had found him particular; but aff:er receiving our representation^ and ascertaining through the regular authorities that our papers were correct, and that we were the persons we professed to be^ he did not hesitate to render us all the satisfac- tion in his power. The Baron de Baje may not be a man to court or to gain popularity _, but as far as I am capable of judging, the well-disposed residents at Para had reason to congratulate themselves on his appointment ; he appeared determined to keep all parties at a distance^ which, under existing circum- stances^ was most desirable; and being a man of large fortune^ he was not likely to apply his autho- rity to his own private emolument. I was told he had been appointed president of Para by the emperor, contrary to his own wish, and that he hoped not to remain long. If this were true, the emperor had at least shown considerable judgment in sending such a man where he was much wanted. In his private character the baron appeared domestic, and much attached to his familv, whilst they appeared as thoroughly attached to him. He 396 PARA. [Chap. XÍI. could speak a little English^ and by way of giving me a specimen, addressed his youngest daughter^ a remarkably fine little girl, about ten years old, *' My dear child, I love you." The baroness had, I under- stood, been educated in a convent ; she had been rather pretty than otherwise, and I never saw a more amiable wife or kinder mother than she appeared to be. The two eldest daughters were fine young wo- men, but owing to the diabolical system of shutting the ladies up in Brazil, they had perhaps not seen sufficient of the world ; they were, however, lady-like in their manners. During dinner the conversation turned upon our confinement, &c., at Santarém, when the president did not fail to express his disapprobation of the treat- ment we had experienced there. I had been given to understand that the commandante militar's mother, who lived in Para, and was poor and old, and had for several years acted as laundress to one of the English residents, hearing that her son was to be called to an account for his treatment to us, came to her employer, and begged he would intercede, plead- ing that her son had a wife and several young chil- dren, who would be ruined : I therefore availed my- self of this opportunity to say, that although I had felt it my duty to make the representation that had been made, and that I might myself have been called to account, on my return to England, had I not done so, it was not my wish to ruin the commandante militar's family, who, I understood, were poor ; and N Chap. XII.] PARA. 397 I begged that the president would, if possible^ take their case into consideration. Perhaps I was wrong in so doing. I had considered it my duty as a Bri- tish officer to demand redress for what had occurred, and havinof done so I had no business to interfere further ; but I also considered that the object to be attained was rather an acknowledgment of the outrage that had been committed, and, if possible to prevent a recurrence of similar proceedings towards British subjects in future, than to ruin a whole family. It will not be supposed that I had any special personal rejrard for the commandante militar of Santarém ; I do not know his name. The president kindly said he would endeavour to take the case of the comman- dante militar 's family into his consideration, but he did not think the commandante himself could be allowed to pass easily. I then learnt that ours was not the only charge against him. He had gone to the house of the juez at Santarém and threatened him with a knife. He had also flogged some men belong- ing to a schooner who had entered charges against him. After dinner we withdrew to another apartment, where the little girl ran to fetch her shock dog, and afterwards a small green paroquet^ not much larger than a sparrow. The baron asked her if she would give me the paroquet to bring to England ; she he- sitated for a moment, and then said ' si ' (yes)^ and brought it. I received it on my finger^ but the little animal appeared not to like the change^, and began to make a noise ; I tried to persuade her that she 398 PARA. [Chap. XII. would soon regret her playfellow, and that it did not like to g-o ; but she said no, it might go to England^ and accordingly to England it came;, but not without grieving several days for its young mistress. The baron had a fine large red Newfoundland dog that always followed him^ and lay at his feet ; but the poor beast seemed to sufifer from the heat of the climate. The brig we were to sail in was now nearly ready for sea^ and I went round with Mr. Campbell to take leave of the people we had first called upon. On my former visit to the general das armas^ I had said that when I called again 1 would show him my com- mission, which T wished to be seen on account of the abominable doubts that had been expressed respecting it ; accordingly I now did so. He just looked at the seal and the signatures, and said he could not con- ceive how the commandante militar of Santarém could have been induced to act in the manner he had done. He then asked me whether I would enter the Brazilian Navy^ but was told that two of my father's sons having lost their lives in his Britannic Majesty's service^ I as yet thought it not improbable my history might some time form a continuation of theirs. He then pointed out that if Captain Welch, who commanded the frigate in the harbour^ had not once left the Brazilian or Portuguese service, he might have been a vice-admiral ; but I was not in- duced to change my opinion, and_, after some further conversation, took leave. N Chap. XII.] PARA. 399 Amongst the natives who had been most attentive to us^ v^ere Mr. Pombo^ proprietor of the large coun- try-house I have mentioned, and also of several en- genhos and estates, amounting almo.st to districts, and Mr. de Sylva, correspondent of Mr. Cauper of Egas. We had also met several natives who came in occa- sionally to Mr. Campbell's, particularly one who had received some order, which he wore, and who was gentlemanly in his manners, good-natured and intel- ligent. As we were sitting at dinner a day or two before our departure, a person evidently in a high state of excitement rushed into the room, knelt between Mr. Campbell and myself, and taking Mr. Campbell's hand, put it to his forehead, saying something in a low quick voice which I did not hear. Mr. Camp- bell answered him calmly and firmly in Portuguese, and the man ag-ain rushed out of the room. After he was gone, I inquired who and what he was, and was informed that Mr. Campbell had had some commercial transactions with him, in which he had not acted honestly, endeavouring to make a receipt he had received on a former occasion appear as having been given in discharge of a latter account ; for this Mr. Campbell had proceeded against him, and he had been imprisoned ; his friends had interceded, and be- come responsible for the amount, but Mr. Campbell objected to his being liberated until he acknowledged what he had done. He at length did so, and having been set at liberty, came in the manner mentioned 400 PARA. [Chap. XII. to make his peace with Mr. Campbell, and to thank him for not having proceeded to extremity. Mr. Campbell's firmness in this case had produced a con^ siderable sensation, which was likely to have a be- ^ neficial effect amongst the mercantile men. There was a French surgeon at Para, an elderly man, who had, I suppose^ emigrated to England during the revolutionary war, as he was for some time assistant-surgeon of his Majesty's ship Minerve^ at that time commanded by Captain, now Vice- Ad- miral Sir George Cockburn. The doctor had been long enough in the service to acquire a degree of naval feeling that had not yet left him. He spoke of the officers with whom he had served^ particularly the captain and Sir Thomas Hardy^ who was the first lieutenant, with respect and regard ; and in the essence of a sailor's creed, maintained that no frigate in the British navy equalled the one he had served in. The impressions of discipline, moreover, were still fresh upon his mind, and he related several occurrences, particularly a case in which he and some other officers had lost their passage by '^ going to the play at Lisbon/' with a minuteness and earnest- ness that could scarcely have been exceeded had they been still going forward. Before leaving Para, I endeavoured to get such specimens of the productions of the country as were to be had. Mr. Campbell and the young men in his house presented me with several, amongst which were Indian pottery, feather ornaments, arrows, <:;hap. XIL] TAPIRS. 401 and a variety of articles made of Indian rubber. Mr. Williams presented me with some glass jars contain- ing different kinds of snakes ; and from Mr. Pombo I received several onças' skins that had been got from animals killed on his estates : some of them were large, but injured by moths. I bought a young tapir that was perfectly tame, and which reached England alive ; but I regret to add that it died within a few hours after arriving at the gardens of the Zoological Society in the Regent's Park. I had made frequent inquiries, throughout the passage, for one of these animals, of which I had heard much on the coast of Peru, and felt much satisfaction at the prospect of this one living, both as I believe there is not a living specimen in Europe, and whilst living it would have^ formed a kind of memento of the expedition. I have already given an account of the general habits and character of the South American tapir ; an anatomi- cal description of this one, taken from the Zoological Journal, is inserted in the Appendix. My reasons for preferring a young one were, that it would be easier to convey, and more likely to live. On Tuesday the 6th of May, the Douglas, the brig in which Mr. Hinde and myself had taken our passage to England, hauled out into the stream^, ready for sailing. • Early on Wednesday morning we went on board, accompanied by Captain Welch of the Brazilian frigate; Mr. Williams and Mr. Eyton, the mer- chants to whom the vessel had been consigned ; 2D 402 CITY OF PARA. [Chap. XII. and Mr. Campbell. Whilst getting under weighs Captain Welch and Mr. Williams took leave of us, and returned on shore_, but Mr. Campbell and Mr. Eyton went with us some distance down the river, until about noon, when they left the Douglas in a boat belonging to another English merchant brig, the master of which had come down to render as- sistance^ in case any should be required ; the frigate's boats had also at first attended. Mr. Hinde and my- self took leave of Mr. Campbell with those feelings of regard and respect,, which his genuine kindness and constant attention to us whilst at Para, and the opinion that evidently existed respecting him^ as a British merchant^ amongst his own countrymen, ^foreigners, and natives, had produced. On parting company, the boat and the brig eX' changed three cheers. I shall now delay my journal to give a short account of the city of Para. The city of Para is situated on a low part of the right bank of the eastern branch of the Maraiion. Directly opposite to it, and about two miles distant is the large island of Oncas, with several smaller ones, lower down the river : one of these islands has been formed since the arrival of Mr. Harrop, the first English resident in Para. Rather more than a league below the city, is an insulated rock^ on which a fort called Serra is built, and to which all vessels inward or outward bound are obliged to send a boat with papers, before they are allowed to proceed to or away from the city. ^ Chap. XII.] CITY OF PARA. 403 Somewhat less than a league above the city, is the mouth of the river Guama, up which passengers to Maranham are said occasionally to proceed in an easterly direction, and crossing a narrow neck of land, embark in boats on the sea, keeping close in along the coast : we understood the post to be con- veyed by this route ; and it is probably on account of the facility which this and other rivers, particu- larly the Tocantins, afford for a communication with the interior of Brazil, that the present site of Para has been chosen, — for was a passage by the Maranon only to be considered, the Western bank would apparently have been a better position for a city. Between the mouth of the river Guama and the city, is the Naval ' Arsenal ; ' we did not visit it, but w^e were told that one frigate had been launched from it, and another was then building. The city is protected by two forts, both on steep and rocky, but not high points. The principal building in Para is the palace, a large square two stories high, having an open bal- cony at the second story, ornamented with large wooden figures at the outer part, and palm trees betvi^een the windows. Several of the Government offices are in the palace. Internally it is well but not gaudily fitted up ; in the principal room is a full- length painting of the Emperor. A custom has been introduced of passing in procession on certain days, and making a bow to this picture. The late 2 D 2 404 CITY OF PARA. [Chap. XII. president entered into a number of repairs that were required, and otherwise improved the interior of the palace, but the expense incurred was said to have given displeasure to the Emperor. On the north_, east_, and west sides, the ground is open, and the troops are paraded in front every morning. Near the palace are several arches, of what was intended to have been a theatre, on a large scale, but it will probably never be finished. There is a cathedral, and, I believe, eight or nine churches, including four or five convents ; most of them are large and well-built, but there is nothing particular in any. The cathedral is quite a plain building ; opposite to it is the bishop's palace, which is also large but plain. The custom-house is large, well-built, and appa- rently commodious. It has a distinct quay, with a broad flight of wooden stairs leading up to it ; one of the forts is immediately opposite, and a little below is the prison, in which the train of artillery is also kept. The houses of Para are large, and most of them well-built. The streets also are broad, and some of them paved, but there is little of that bustle of busi- ness that is observable in most commercial towns. Few of the principal women are seen moving about in Para; when a lady goes to visit her neighbour she is carried in a hammock slung to a pole, with a large cloth thrown over to prevent her being seen. Most of the principal natives and some of the English residents have houses at short distances in Chap. XII.] TRADE OF PARA. 405 the country. There are also ' engenhos,' estates for raising sugar^ &c. several of which have good houses attached to them, on the banks of the different streams. There is no regular market in Para, except that boats and canoes come from the country in a morn- ing, and sell what they have on the beach. There are two or three slaug-hter-houses. Cattle and horses are brought from Marajó^ and some of the neigh- bouring islands, where they are said to run wild, but belong to individuals, some of whom are the proprietors of islands^ and all the cattle upon them. The horses are not large or powerful ; when wild, they are worth about five dollars each. They are occasionally exported to the West India islands. A curious circumstance is connected with the horses kept for use by residents in the city. It is customary to ride in an evening, when the heat of the day is over, and the mercantile men have transacted their business. On returning from riding, the horses are let loose from the houses^ and proceed of their own accord to the open ground, near the palace_, and in other parts of the suburbs. At day-light they re- appear at their owners' doors^ to be taken in_, and work if required, no person either going out with them or for them. They are not_, however, quiet to ride_, not liking the bit or spur : Mr. Henderson, one of the young men in Mr. Campbell's establishment^ had had several serious accidents. The trade of Para is said to labour under two dis- 406 TRADE OF PARA. [Chap. XII. advantages ; one is, that from the want of a circulating medium, the only payment that can be obtained for goods is produce, on which the merchants occasionally lose, so that they are under the necessity of selling their goods at higher prices than they otherwise would sell them. Another disadvantage is, that from dis- turbances that have of late years taken place^ and the consequent uncertainty of returns, the merchants are afraid to risk their capitals, and commerce has been decreasing. I^ perhaps, cannot convey a better idea of the present trade of Para than by copying the manifest of the cargo laden in the vessel in which I came a passenger. Manifest of a Cargo laden on hoard the British hrig, Dou- glas, of Liverpool^ burthen per register 146 tons, at Para. James Inch, master, for London, April, 1828. <^ Two hundred bags Cocoa . CONCLUDING REMARKS. 425 in Peru I should say, that the principal objections to being concerned in silver mines are, — firsts the un- certainty of the vein's continuance, at least of its richness. Secondly, if the vein proves rich the proprietors are liable to be robbed by the work- men ; if it is not rich it will scarcely repay the expense of working-. With the native miners, that is, mine proprietors, if a vein is rich they are apt to increase their min- ing establishments and expenditure almost to the amount of the silver got, in the hope of obtaining greater qjantities of ore and more immediate wealth. Should the vein then fail, or become less rich, it does not pay the expenses of the establishment and the proprietor is ruined. Should it continue rich, the proprietor not unfrequently ruins himself by gambling, acting on the ground that ^^ the mine is rich and will pay for all." Those of the native proprietors, who are more wary, when the progress or success of a vein appears uncertain, occasionally make an agreement with a labourer to work a certain vein in a certain direction, for a certain time, perhaps a week — all the silver he gets in that time to be the labourer's. By such an arraupement the labourer sometimes becomes com- paratively rich, but whatever is the result the proprietor is safe : should the vein fail he has gained the information he wanted without incurring expense, should it improve at the end of the labourer's time he derives the benefit. Still it may be imagined 426 CONCLUDING REMARKS. that such a system does not tend to improve the moral character of the labourer. European proprietors^, and principally English mining- companies^ endeavouring to proceed on the plan of obtaining large quantities of rich ore_, with- out being robbed by the native labourers, sent out English miners as workmen, at an expense which^ I believe,, has scarcely in any instance repaid the share- holders. At Coquimbo^ I inquired what was the pay given to a workman we saw about the house^ and was told 240/. a year^ double my full pay as a Lieutenant in His Majesty's Navy. Several of the English la- bourers had wisely been sent home from that esta- blishment^ and the commissioner finding the silver mines would not pay^ had as wisely stopped working them^ and turned his attention to some copper mines which it was supposed might answer. My opinion as to the safest plan, for Europeans to obtain South American silver, is to purchase what is called 'piria^' which is the metal smelted and cleared of its dross, from the native miners ; by such means a moderate but almost certain profit may be obtained without risk. If^ however^ English mining companies are to exist;, I think that instead of sending out large and expensive establishments^ with numerous clerks and workmen, at enormous wages, it would be better to enter into partnership with some of the most upright and best-informed natives, by which means the English shareholders would derive the benefit of the natives' local expe- ^ CONCLUDING REMARKS. 427 Hence, knowledge of the workmen's character, and mfluence in protectnig their interests; whilst the native proprietors would, on their part, derive the benefit of the English shareholder's capital, have a certain market for the produce of the mines, and the advantage of the company's influence to protect their interests in England. Moreover, such an arrange- ment would be more just than the monopolizing, in- terloping schemes that have hitherto not exempted our countrymen from the accusation of being ac- tuated by those avaricious cravings after South American mines, that induced other powers to act more flagrantly, and proved the bane of Peru by tempting invasion, oppression, neglect of agriculture, and its attendant, depopulation. It would, per- haps, be desirable in such a case, to send out a com- missioner on the part of the English shareholders to see that their interests were attended to. It is not to be doubted that the Spaniards were guilty of oppression towards Peru, inasmuch as they invaded and took forcible possession, kept the country in a state of blockade during the time of their authority, and reduced the population to one- fifth by driving the natives from the agricultural districts to work in the mines. They have, however, been accused of other cruelties of which I do not think they were guilty. Avarice reigned in Peru during the time of the Spaniards, but when that avarice was not excited, I do not think they were wantonly cruel to the natives. On the contrary, 428 CONCLUDING REMARKS. they appear, in many instances,, to have protected and treated them with kindness. During our route we met with Indian Alcaldes^ Curacas, and even governors of districts^ who ruled their countrymen much according to their own customs. This much at least may be asserted, that the system adopted by the Spaniards towards the Indians^ shines when compared with that which has been and still is acted upon by the Portuguese brancos towards the wretched natives of Para ; and the consequence has been a corresponding superiority in the character of the Peruvian Indians. With regret I add that, since the revolution, the attention of the supreme government of the republic having been too much engrossed with immediate business to regard the condition of the province of Maynas, the governors of pueblos have began to act more on the branco system towards the Indians ; the consequence of which is that the Indians are leaving the pueblos, I am myself a Protestant, but I conceive I should not act correctly was I not to state^ that however Roman Catholic Priests may have acted at other times and in other countries, they, and particular It/ the Jesuits, have evidently done much good amongst the South American Indians ; one proof of which is, that although the Indians have begun to leave some of the pueblos in the Montana of Peru, in conse- quence of their unjust treatment by the governors, if anything will now draw an extraordinary number of them from the woods, it is the intelligence that a ^ CONCLUDING REMARKS. 429 padre is coming- to celebrate the festival of their saint in the pueblo to which they belonged. On all occasions that we had an opportunity of witnessing*, the Indians treated the priests with the greatest respect^ and would at all times exert themselves for a ' padre.' Towards the coast, and more particularly at Lima, the priests are said to have been bigoted, and tyran- nical_, and to have propagated absurd legends during* the time of the Spaniards. At present, the rising generation are accused of running into an opposite extreme/of professing too liberal principles,, or rather of being deficient in religious principle^ and the priests are said to be losing that due authority and respect which they possess in all civilized and well- regulated countries. With respect to the progress of population, it per- haps is not correct to add of civilization, in Peru, I met with what appeared to me some curious points. In some graves near Arica, said to have been made previous to the Spanish conquest, and to have be- longed to a different race from the present Indian inhabitants, we found, amongst numerous models of harpoons, spears, household utensils, &c. that had been buried with the bodies, several models of ' bal- sas ' entirely different from those now used on the coast, but corresponding with the catamarans of Ma- dras. The bodies were in a considerable degree of preservation, owing to the dryness of the atmosphere, and the great quantity of saltpetre in the soil. One 430 CONCLUDING REMARKS. body in particular was uncovered^ not only the flesh, but the expression of whose countenance was as per- fect as when buried. It was the body of a girl ap- parently about eighteen years of age. The hair was straight, of an auburn colour, and, I think, parted or cut square in front ; the complexion, as far as I could judge, a tawny yellow; the expression of the counte- nance was rather pleasing, far from a savage wild- ness. The bodies had been buried with the knees doubled up to the breast, and were all covered with ponchos, the colours of which were fresh. I have already mentioned the tribe of Yaguas we saw at Pebas, who, I imagine, may be the descen- dants of the Incas, or their people who fled to the Montaiia from the Spaniards. Their colour was also a tawny yellow. Now it has appeared to me, whether correctly or not I will not presume to say, that if the Parsees, that is the Persian fire- worshippers, ever reached Peru during their disturb- ances and transmigrations, the history of the Incas, the descendants of the Sun, is in a great measure explained. I have seen the Parsees at Bombay, where they had arrived, by flying down the Persian gulph or Red Sea, from oppression in their own country. Now the question appears to be whether it is or is not probable that some of these Parsees, calling themselves the children of the Sun, may have reached Peru by a voyage across the Pacific, where the weather is fine, and numerous islands, would facilitate their progress ; or whether, having reached ^ CONCLUDING REMARKS. 431 Peru^ they were the persons who founded the empire of the Incas. The complexion and figure of the Yaguas correspond with that of the Parsees at Bombay _, excepting that^ if 1 remember rightly, the Parsees have aquiline noses, which, I think, the Yaguas have not. Of the nature of the immense province of Para it is scarcely possible to say more than the Brazilians them- selves say of it, that it is ^' muy, muy rico/' very, very rich ; adding that there is, perhaps, no part of the world, certainly no part of any Christian government's territory, in a more barbarous condition . The branco system, as far as concerns the Indians, is a system of horror, and tends greatly to detract from the merit of that character for enterprise which otherwise confers honour on the Portuguese name in more than one quarter of the globe, and most especially in Brazil. From the limited population of Portugal, the manner in which the Portuguese colonies are said to have been first established, namely by turning convicts adrift amongst the natives, was not likely to improve the moral character of the Indians; and the horrible eíFeets of a corresponding system, although I do not mean to say that the present brancos were convicts, is now felt in the province of Para. On every account, — justice and humanity to the wretched Indians, interest to the brancos, safety to the government, and improvement of mankind generally, it is, I am confident, most desirable that such a system should cease to exist. In the course of my N 432 CONCLUDING REMARKS. journal I have endeavoured to point out the un* ^ soundness, injustice, and impolicy of such proceed- ings. I will now venture to trespass once more on my readers' patience in attempting to expose the errors of such a system ; and I most fervently wish, though I scarcely dare hope, that any thing I may be able to say may tend to produce amelioration. The effects of the slave system — (it will be remem- bered that when we were at Egas we were told that two brancos ^were then away in the woods trying their fortune,' that is, hunting Indians for slaves) — are, that the Indians obtained by injustice, but without much expense, are regarded only for their physical force and labour. When they die, which they not uncommonly do in numbers after their capture, the owner considers that he has lost so much property of a description that was rather disliked for its trouble and uncertainty, than cherished with feelings of es- teem or humanity. During their lives the brancos, as they themselves declare, fearing lest the Indians should fly to the woods, and attempt to regain the tribes from which they have been brought, instead of endeavouring to restrain any evil propensities, rather promote them, by supplying cachaça, an inferior, but strong kind of spirit, that intoxicates the Indians ; by which means the owners hope to keep them depen- dent, and prevent their attempts to fly. If to such practices be added the examples of the brancos, who, to say the least, too generally proceed from the lower orders of the country whence they came, and being- CONCLUDING REMARKS. 433 established in positions where civil or religious authority has little power over them^ are apt to fall into vices to which human nature is prone, and which a slight knowledge of civilization but tends to increase. The evils produced may, I think, be imagined. There may be — T trust there arc — several exceptions to such a state of things, — owners who treat their Indians with regard, not merely fur their animal powers of labour, but who endeavour to improve their moral character ; and in such cases the wretchedness of slavery will be lessened. But it is surely a dangerous principle of administration to trust to such a beneficent feeling on the part of the owners, especially when placed in positions, and under cir- cumstances, where the evil propensities of their na- ture are apt to be excited, and virtuous principles weakened — a feeling which I do not hesitate to assert is not general amongst the brancos of Para ; for, if it had been general, the Indians, the country, and the brancos themselves, would not be in the condi- tion in which they now are. If particular proofs be necessary, I might refer to the conversation that took place at Serpa, to facts which we saw, and opinions that we heard expressed. The cabo of the river craft in which we came from the Rio Negro to Para, ex- pressed to us his contempt for his crew, and an entire absence of feeling towards them, as long as they got him and his vessel back again. He dared not exert what would even have been proper auiuoiiiy over them, lest they should leave him ; but toward 2F 434 CONCLUDING REMARKS. an unfortunate negro^ and the Indian cook-boy, of whose desertion he was not afraid, he showed his character to the full. For himself and his caste, Brazil was free and independent ; he could sing the song of ' Ha Liberdade,' and criticise the measures of the government in no measured language; but when the unfortunate Indians were spoken of, ^ they wiere only to be ruled by harsh measures.' The free- dom and independence of the country, of which they were the original possessors, did not extend to them, and their doom was fixed by this lordling, who had been educated as a smith, but could not write, who had now ' na braços,' and who had given as a reason for marrying a half-caste, ^ that it was convenient, for she would manage the chacra, and he might lie in his hammock and smoke.' The fact is, that in the remote parts of the province of Para ^ might makes right,' and power and inte- rest, rather than justice, form the practical admini- stration of the law. The emperor may send forth edicts, and the president orders, but the isolated branco is himself an emperor, and much more abso- lute than Don Pedro at Rio Janeiro. Nor is this mere figurative language. The emperor has declared all his Indian subjects free ; the brancos still hunt and enslave them. Where then is the power? Where the absolute authority? Indeed, if it be considered that in the present state of things it re- quires at least a year to communicate from Rio Janeiro to the frontier post on the Maranon ; how seldom communications are made through, and to I CONCLUDING REiMARKS. 435 whom made, and how little the emperor or the go- vernment under him know of what is passing* in this part of the empire, such proceedings are scarcely to be wondered at. But to return to the Indians. It has been asserted that there is a natural apathy about the Indians, and that if they were left to them- selves they w^ould not work. One of the cabo's argu- ments in favour of enslaving them was, that they did not make regular chacras and establishments in the woods where they were hunted ; consequently, it was better that they should be brought down to work in the brancos' chacras. This was good reasoning, after we had been told that every means was taken to hunt out their retreats and enslave them. The con- sequence therefore of making regular chacras would be that they could more easily be found and captured. But it is not under existing circumstances that the Indians' character or capacities are to be judged of. If at any period an opportunity of forming a correct judgment has been afforded, it was in the time of the Jesuits, under whom the Indians are said to have improved rapidly. If, however, a chance is given to them, even now appearances promise favourably, as we saw at the new Mura pueblo. At all events it is not from the assertions of ignorant or selfishly interested persons that opinions can justly be formed of Indian character. This iS" not the first time that an inferior nature has been advanced as a plea for justifying slavery; but thanks be to Providence, and to the memories of those men who stood forward as 2 F 2 436 CONCLUDING REMARKS. the friends of their oppressed fellow- creatures, the age when such pleas were admitted has passed^ surely never to return. Inferior the Indians may be ; if not, where were the advantages of our systems of education, of the boasted ' march of intellect ' ? But let those systems be commenced amongst them ; let them find by facts and experience, not by promises and sayings that are contradicted by proofs and ex- amples, that the sure way to obtain encouragement, and to avoid punishment, is to be 'orderly and indus- trious ; let their exertions be stimulated by finding that they may acquire wealth and comfort ; that the produce of other countries, or other people, is to be obtained in return for what they can themselves sup- ply ; and it will then be time, after such a trial has been made, to judge whether the censures and^con- demnations that have been passed upon them by the brancos are just. One thing at least is certain — the system of slavery has been tried for ages, and the effects produced have been, that the Indians are reduced in numbers, and degraded even below the character of savages : this the brancos themselves admit. An old negociante at St. Pablo, comparing the Indians of Peru with those of Brazil, observed to us that the former were both more numerous and better characters. What might have been the ultimate result of the system pursued by the Jesuits with regard to the In- dians, had it not been interrupted, it is, perhaps, scarcely possible to determine. It is moreover an CONCLUDING REMARKS. 437 ungracious task to seek for imperfections in a system that no longer exists,, and which, whatever its imper- fections might have been if left to their develope- ment^ was^ during its time of action^ productive of general good, and carried into execution by its sup- porters with a zeal and intrepidity that does honour to their memory! It is^ however^ not improbable that had the Jesuits not been expelled from South America, and the system upon which they were proceeding not been annihilated^ they would have brought the Indians to a certain point of civilization^ at which point they would have kept them under their own absolute authority, both in spiritual and temporal affairs. The result in such case would have been^ that the Indians at this time would be more numerous^ more civilized^ more happy, and in every respect infinitely superior to what they are under the horrible hunting and enslaving system. Still it would almost as certainly have been difficult to have got the Indians beyond that point of civili- zation^ which I am so far from thinking difficult at present, that I conceive the attempt only requires to be made on sound and equitable principles to prove its facility. The protection and advantages which the Jesuits afforded to the Indians brought them will- ingly under their authority ; their settlements be- came populous and comparatively prosperous. The oppression and evils which the brancos have brought upon the Indians have compelled them to fly to the more remote parts of the forests^ have reduced their 438 CONCLUDING REMARKS. numbers almost to extermination^ and rendered them vicious and wretched. On these grounds^ therefore^ I conceive it may be inferred that if a more just sys- tem than that of the Jesuits were established^ accom- panied by superior advantages to those they afforded,, a proportionate improvement would take place both in the condition and character of the Indians. If it were merely required to prove the impolicy of treating the Indians with injustice, it would not be necessary to refer to the time of the Jesuits. A com- parison might be made between the Indians of Brazil and those of Peru, and even between those pueblos in Peru, where injustice on the part of the governors towards the Indians having commenced, an imme- diate evil effect has been produced ; but I conceive that my readers are now as fully masters of this sub- ject as it is in my power to make them ; I therefore resign it to their judgment, trusting that condemna- tion will not be passed upon the wretched In- dians. Having endeavoured to point out the evils which the brancos bring upon the Indians, it is but justice now to mention the difficulties to which they are themselves exposed. The first and most immediate is that which they have occasioned, namely, the de- struction morally and physically of the Indians, whereby, being in their present stations above per- sonal labour, they have literally, as they say, ^ na braços,' Mio hands.' It is the evil recoiling on the offender, '^ the sins of the fathers visiting the chil- M f^ CONCLUDING REMARKS. 439 dren;" and if left to themselves, they appear fully inclined to hand down the evil to their descendants. The second is the want of a sufficient communica- tion, it being at present difficult for them to obtain such things as they require, or to transmit the litUe produce they raise. Moreover, the want of commu- nication with more humanized countries causes them to lose the few traces of civilization they might once have possessed. The want of information may per- haps be judged from the two following anecdotes : — At Egas I was making some inquiries, and mentioned some circumstances connected with the country, of which I had heard or become acquainted, although the information I had been able to obtain, previous to leaving Lima, was, to say the least, extremely im- perfect. The juez (civil judge), who was present on this occasion, exclaimed ^' How is this? You are the first Englishmen who have been here, and yet you know all about the country?" At the city of the Barra Rio Negro, where we considered ourselves to be getting again within the limits of civilization, and from whence there is a comparatively frequent com- munication by means of river craft with Para, T gave them 7iews from Rio Janeiro, although we had been ten weeks from that port to Valparaiso, a winter's passage, and continued, contrary gales detaining us, six weeks off Cape Horn, afterwards several months on the coast of the Pacific, and then crossed the Andes, descending the Maraiion, &c. The third difficulty to which the brancos are ex- 440 CONCLUDING REMARKS. posed is the want of a due administration of justice : for although each isolated branco is, as I before said, absolute^ and can and does exert uncontrolled des- potism over the Indians^ if he would himself use exertions by applying to commerce^ &c. he then in his turn feels the want of just laws, and well-regulated authority. We were more than once given to under- stand that in such cases some of the governors or commandantes are apt to apply what authority they possess in monopolizing the little commerce that may exists and thus an additional check is given to the brancos* exertions. In justification of the governors or commandantes, we were told that they received no salaries from the government^ and^ therefore, were under the necessity of trafficking, &c. to support them- selves. The commandante of Egas_, and the acting commandante at the frontier, were both pointed out as exceptions to this monopolizing character. Lower down the river, and even in the immediate neighbourhood of the city of Para, the brancos do not lose their turbulence and disregard of the laws. They do not^ it is true, hunt the Indians to enslave them, because there are no '^ wild Indians," as they are termed^ to hunt, and because such an aggression would there be too glaring; but within the last few years the most outrageous robberies and murders have been performed ^ en mass ; ' and^ what is most extraordinary, they have been performed in the name of the emperor, although in direct opposition to his authority. ^ CONCLUDING REMARKS. 441 When Brazil was declared independent^ a man-of- war brig was sent to summon Para to proclaim Don Pedro emperor. The office of president was, I believe^ at that time executed by a commission^ consisting of the heads of departments ; the former president having left Para previous to his successor's arrival^ or without any successor being appointed. On being summoned to proclaim Don Pedro empe- ror and Brazil independent, the authorities did so, and were continued in their offices with powers from the emperor. Shortly afterwards the soldiers^ in conjunction with some other persons, determined amongst themselves that the emperor had intended they should sack the city as a reward for their services in proclaiming him^ and accordingly dis- regarding their officers they commenced operations. The commander of the man-of-war that had been sent to summons Para immediately landed his men, and by prompt measures^, planting artillery at the corners of the streets, &c._, succeeded in suppressing the tumult. Several of the mutineers were shot, and many others confined in the hold of a vessel that was lying in the harbour. The following morning, to the horror of all parties^ upwards, I believe, of two hundred and fifty of these unfortunate beings were found dead from suffi)cation. Since that time various disturbances have taken place. On one occasion the people of Camuta, a considerable town not far up the river Tocantins, feeling an inclination to rob and murder some of 442 CONCLUDING REMARKS. the principal inhabitants, agreed amongst themselves that they were enemies to the emperor^ and in the emperor's name they put to death more than forty persons^ dragged their bodies through the streets, then threw them into the river_, and proceeded to plunder. After the first disturbance the foreign merchants^ most of whom were British^ considering that neither they nor their property were safe, formed themselves into a troop of cavalry for their own defence ; but this being considered contrary to the law of nations, a British man-of-war was sent to desire the British merchants would desist from their exercises,, which they did. On another occasion not considering themselves safe, they met to consult what was best to be done^ and the vice-consul^ accompanied by one of the merchants^ was requested to inquire of the government whether^, under existing circum- stances^ they could and would protect the merchants and their property. An uncertain answer was returned^ some of the members of government reply- ing in the affirmative^ others in the negative : it was then deemed best to take-up^ that is^ to charter a vessel which might drop down below the forts^ and in which the merchants' papers might be embarked. Ultimately the vice-consul with the merchants sailed for Barbadoes. The senior naval officer present sent a frigate-built ship and an eighteen gun brig back with them. On entering the river a misunderstanding took place^ the fort at M CONCLUDING REMARKS. 443 the bar fired at the ships and the shots were re- turned, but no damage done ; and after anchoring- abreast the city^ the merchants re-hmded, and took possession of their establishments. The formation of a troop of cavahy in a foreign territory, and the misunderstanding between the fort and the ships may both have been considered at the time unfortunate events ; nevertheless, I do not think I am incorrect in stating* that the forming that troop^ the appearance of those ships, and the residence of foreign merchant s^, the greater number of whom are, as I before said^ British^ have tended in a very material degree to check outrages, and support the regular authorities. The outrages that have taken place have, how- ever, on their part, produced an effect. The mer- chants finding themselves exposed to disturbances in the city, and the returns for their goods uncertain, in consequence of the want of communication, have begun to contract their concerns ; and more than one assured me that if they could obtain what was owing to them they would leave Para. Í do not hesitate to say, that it appeared to me Para cannot long continue as it has been. If the late disturb- ances were to proceed, the people would ere long annihilate each other, and all law and authority be at an end. There are, of course, many superior persons resident in Para, and the Baron de Baje, the president, appears inclined to do all in his power, and, perhaps, is capable of doing more than most 444 CONCLUDING REMARKS. of his predecessors ; but still that power scarcely extends beyond where he can himself act. The emperor is heard of and even feared for his energy in the wildest parts of the empire^ but it is that sort of fear with which children regard a spirit that is to keep them in order,, but which they never see or even feel. In the higher parts of the province the laws are disregarded. In the immediate neighbour- hood of the city the government is disturbed by riots, robberies, and murder. Communications are diffi- cidt ; the inhabitants are poor ; and scarcely any circulating medium exists. Such is the state of, I think, naturally the richest country in the world : a country not only capable of an infinitude of productions, but which also affords the means of conveying those productions in all directions, by its immense rivers, some of which are at present almost as little known as the rivers of the planets. It has, I believe, been the policy of the Brazilian government to shut up this country and these rivers, and it is possible such may still be the policy acted upon ; but as far as I am capable of forming an opinion on such a subject, a contrary system would tend far more to the maintenance of the emperor's authority, the good of the country, and the improvement of the inhabitants. I can conceive that if a steam navigation were once com- menced on the Maranon and its tributaries, the effect might be almost magical ; I can conceive that in ten years from the commencement of such a na- ^! CONCLUDING REMARK??. 445 vigation, a traveller or voyager^ passing tliroiigli the country^ would scarcely know it to be that I have endeavoured to describe. With respect to the capability of the Maranon for purposes of navigation^ I am of opinion that up to the basin I described at Omaguas, near the junction of the Ucayali with the Maranon in Peru, there is depth of water for vessels of almost any class. If it were required to extend a communication be- yond Omaguas^ the attempt should be made in vessels drawing not more than five, or at the most six feet water. From what I saw and heard, I think vessels of such a draught might proceed up the Maranon, until it turns from its east and west course towards north and south, after which it is said to be interrupted by falls, or cataracts ; up the Guallaga to Yurimaguas ; up the Ucayli to Sa- rayacu ; how much farther I do not know : but if a communication was ever to be opened witii Lima hy the Maranon, there can be little doubt that this ought to be the branch followed. The Napo might, probably, be navigated for a considerable distance from its mouth towards the Andes. In Brazil, the Rio Negro is at present navigated by river craft, similar to those used in the lower parts of the Maranon, and there are numerous large tributaries that discharge themselves into the Mara- non, several of which equal, if they do not exceed,, the largest rivers of Europe, and which, it is more ^than probable, might be rendered available as chan- 446 CONCLUDING REMARKS. nels of communication^ but of which it would be absurd in me to attempt any particular description, inasmuch as they are mostly almost unknown. The Madeira^ one of the principal tributaries, has, I be- lieve, deep water, but is interrupted by falls ; still it is navigated by river craft, which enter by the river Maues, that may be termed one of its mouths. Notwithstanding" a sufficient depth of water, which I am of opinion may be found for vessels of almost any class up to Omaguas, the shoals in the river are numerous, and the channels between them are in some parts narrow and winding. The rate of the current, at the time we came down, averaged about four knots, or miles per hour, in some parts more, in others less. The rate, however, varies, being the strongest in the rainy season, and the weakest dur- ing the dry season. The rains had commenced before we started, and on our approaching the At- lantic, the river was remarked by the people of the country to be unusually full, the rainy season draw- ing towards an end. There is generally a breeze up the river, which is strongest in the dry season when the current is the weakest. Under these cir- cumstances it is evident that the proper vessels for navigating the MaraHon are steam vessels, which would have to keep clear of trees, &c., that float down the stream in some, but not in all parts of the river. It would, moreover, be necessary to be cau- tious in anchoring, not only on account of the depth of water, and the rate of the current, but in that N CONCLUDING REMARKS. 447 part of the river I sounded^ which was from the junc- tion of the Guallaga to the Brazilian frontier, trees^ roots_, or some other such things occasionally caught the lead. The superabundance of wood on the banks, and the vein having the appearance of coal through which the river runs near Pebas, would obviate any difficulty as to fuel for steam vessels. I am aware^, that an expensive steam-boat ex- pedition, undertaken^ to say the leasts inconsiderately by the North Americans^, without having previously obtained the Emperor's sanction, and for what I consider an unattainable, at least an unprofitable object — to go to the mines at Cusco for silver, failed^ and has produced an unfavourable impression relative to steam-boats at Para. I am also aware that several of our own countrymen's South American speculations have failed, and I attribute those failures principally to a similar inconsiderate rush into wild extremes. I think, moreover, that if any extensive steam-boat establishment were immediately to be attempted on the Maranon, it would not answer ; that is, the returns would not pay the interest of the capital expended. But I am, nevertheless, as con- fident as my senses of perception and powers of reflection can make me, that there is a field for im- provement in the countries on the banks of the Maranon and its tributaries, that is unequalled in any part of the world ; and the sooner a communica- tion by steam vessels is commenced, the sooner im- provements will take place, and their attendant 448 CONCLUDING REMARKS. advantages be felt. But I repeat that^ by whatever capitalists such an undertaking may be attempted^ the establishment at first must not be too large. If it is^ it will not pay. I should say^ that supposing such a speculation to be entered into, and the empe- ror's sanction, &c. obtained, the trial ought first to be made in two small steam-boats which might ply be- tween the Rio Negro and Para. As they are found to answer, and improvements begin to take place in the country, which, I believe, they very soon would do, these small vessels might be replaced by larger and more powerful ones, and sent to feel their way up the Maranon, Rio Negro, and other rivers, gradu- ally replacing them by superior vessels, as they were found to answer, until a communication was carried on throughout. If it be supposed that, on reaching Peru, the Brazilian government would object to the communication being extended, it does not appear to me that a communication with Peru would be inju- rious to Brazil, but, on the contrary, as a circulating medium, which is much wanted in Para, could pro- bably be obtained by such a communication, whilst the vegetable productions of countries differing so widely in elevation, in all probability, also vary. Amongst the advantages that would be obtained by the residents in Para, are — First, That two men in a steam vessel would do as much as a dozen in the present river craft, and in a third of the time ; con- sequently, the evil of which they now so loudly com- plain, ' want of hands,' would be in a measure reme- > CONCLUDING REMARKS. 449 died. Secondly, when such a communication was established^ persons of superior capital and ability would not object to settle up the country, aUboufij-h, under existing circumstances, they do not like to be banished amons^st brancos and savaoes. The effects which such persons settling* u[) the river would pro- duce on the physical improvement of the country, the morals of the inhabitants, and the administration of the laws, cannot be doubted. Thirdly, regular communications would take place with the govern- ment, and existing evils might be remedied. Nor is a steam navigation on the Maranon the only improvement that I conceive might be made in the communications of this part of Brazil. The dif- ficulties of making passages, and keeping up commu- nications between Para and the capital, or Bahia, are such as to amount almost to a barrier. I am therefore of opinion that it would be advantageous to extend a steam navigation along the coast. On the river, Fahrenheit's thermometer stood at eighty degrees nearly the w^hole way down. The cli- mate became more moist as we entered Brazil, and was excessively damp at Para, but it was the rainy season. Respecting the source of the Maranon, or as to which branch is best entitled to be considered the head of the river, different opinions have existed and have been vehemently opposed to each other. I do not, however, conceive that the branch which bears the name of Maranon, and continues the 2 G 450 CONCLUDING REMARKS. furthest in an east and west direction is, as it has sometimes been represented, much inferior to the UcayaU. Taking the junction of the two rivers as a centre from which to measure^ I think it probable that the western branch will be found the most considerable at the greater distance, although some of the small streams that form the Ucayali may exceed it in extreme length : moreover the Ucayali and other branches appear rather to be formed by a collection of streams^ whilst the Maraiion flows throuohout from between the Cordilleras as a main channel. These remarks of course do not aifect the communication with Lima, some of the streams that form the Ucayali flowing more immediately from the direction of that city. On the passage I inquired what was the meaning of the name Maraiion, and was told that it was a compound word_, signifying ^' not the sea ;" that the first discoverer of the river having got into its mouth^, supposing it to be the sea, on finding the water fresh, made use of the expression ^' Maranon," and thus named the river. If such were the case a more appropiiate name could scarcely be found in any European language ; not only as it rather resembles a sea than a river throughout the greater part of its course, but, as being the largest river of the globe, it may be said to approximate towards a sea, although " not the sea." I have already expressed an opinion relative to the Indian term. Para. However as its other names do not appear CONCLUDING REMARKS. 451 to convey any natural idea of this immense body of fresh water, and Maranon being: the name used in the western part towards its source, I have, as thinking- it most applicable^ made use throughout of the term Maranon. I have now only to return my thanks publicly to Mr. Southey for the kindness with which he has broken in upon more important occupations to look over my journal, and for a present of a copy of his valuable ^ History of Brazil,' a work that will be duly appreciated when the country of which it treats becomes more generally known. It will not, 1 trust, be supposed that the accounts I have given_, or the opinions I have expressed, have been influenced by selfish or interested motives^. I readily admit that it would be a high gratifiiation to 4 me at some period to know that I had contributed to the improvement of naturally the richest, though at present one of the most barbarous portions of the globe. Neither do I hesitate to confess that 1 am most anxious not only to merit but to obtain dis- tinction ; had I not been so I should not have undertaken the expedition of which this journal has attempted to give an account. Should any good result I shall be satisfied; should none, I shall still not regret the undertaking, although in the latter case much time, expense, and anxiety have been thrown away. Henry Lister Maw. 2 G 2 ^ APPENDIX. (Copy.) These are to certify that the bearer, Mr. H. L. Maw, is a lieutenant in his Britannic Majesty's navy, and that he has my permission to proceed to England by the way of Para ; and as it is impossible to procure any passports, or other documents, I beg leave to recommend him to the protection of all those he may fall in with. Given under my hand and seal, on board his Britannic Majesty's ship Doris, in Callao Roads, this 27th of November, 1827. (Signed) John Gordon Sinclair. Senior Officer in the Pacitic. (Copy.) Consulado Britânico. Los abajo firmados. Cônsules de su Magestad Britânica para el Peru, certificamos que el Sefior Don Enrique Lister Maw, portador de este certificado, es oficial de la marina de su Magestad Britânica ; y rogamos á todas las autori- dades de las potencias aliadas y amigas de la nacion Bri- 454 APPENDIX. tanica, le concedan libre pase, y le faciliten el transito hasta Pará en el império de Brazil. Dado en el Consulado Britânico en la ciudad de Lima y republica del Peru á viente cuatro de Noviembre del ano de nuestro Senor Jesu Cristo mil ocho cientos viente y siete. (Firmado) P. W. Kelly, Thos. S. Willimott, Cônsules de su Magestad Britânica. (Translation of the British Consuls' letter.) British Consulate. The undersigned consuls of his Britannic Majesty for Peru, certify that Mr. Henry Lister Maw, bearer of this cer- tificate, is an officer in the navy of his Britannic Majesty ; and we beg of all authorities of powers in alliance and friendship with the British nation, that they grant him a free passage, and facilitate him in his transit to Para in the empire of Brazil. Given in the British Consulate, in the city of Lima and § republic of Peru, 24th November, in the year of our Lord 1827. (Signed) P. W. Kelly, Thos. S. Willimott, Consuls of his Britannic Majesty. APPENDIX. 455 (Copy.) Republica Peruana. Ministério de Estado de'l Despacho de Gobierno y j. Relaciones Exteriores. ' Palácio de'1 Supremo Gobierno on Lima /i 24 de Novieml)re de 1h27. Senor Prefecto, El Teniente de la marina de S. M. B\, D. Enrique Lister Maw, conductor de esta, ha obtenido pasaporte de la prefectura de'1 departamiento con previa aprol)acion de'1 Gobierno para internarse por Mainas á la Montana y hacer reconocimientos cientificos. Aunque el objeto que lleva el Senor Maw es por si mismo una recomendacion circa de las autoridades Peruanas, el Gobierno decidido protector de las ciências y de las artes me ha mandado encaracer a V. S. que atienda a'l Senor Maw, preveniendo á las autoridades de'1 transito que le concedan la hospitalidad y ayuda que dispensan los hombres civilisados á cuantos corren riesgos y arrostran penalidades y sacriíicias por su oficiou a los descubrimientos otiles á la navigacion, ai comercio, y á la industria. Soy de V. S. atento servidor, (Firmado) J. J. Mariategue. Senor Prefecto dei Departamiento de la Libertad. (Translation.) Peruvian Republic. Ministry of State of Despatch of Govemmentl and Exterior Relations. i Palace of Supreme Govemment in Lima, 24th November, 1827. Sir Prefect, The Lieutenant of his Britannic Majesty's navy, Mr. Henry Lister Maw, the bearer of this, has obtained a pass- 456 APPENDIX. port from the prefecture of the department, with previous approbation of the government, to enter by Mainas into the Montana, and to make scientific researches. Although the object which takes Mr. Maw is of itself a recommendation to the Peruvian authorities, the govern- ment, the decided protector of the arts and sciences, has ordered me to recommend to your excellency that you pay attention to Mr. Maw, advising the authorities of the transit that they grant to him the hospitality and assistance which! civilized men afford to all such as run risk and suffer incon- veniences and sacrifices for their love of discoveries useful to navigation, commerce, and industry. I am your Excellency's attentive servant, (Signed) J. J. Mariategue. To the Prefect of the Department de la Libertad. . (Copy.) Canoe St. Joaquim de Prazeres é Alegria. Sir, Having left H.M.S. Menai at Lima in November la^to return to England, I have, with the approbation of Sir John Gordon Sinclair, senior officer of his Majesty's vessels on the western coasts of America, taken the route of the Marai^on, bringing with me official letters from Sir John Sinclair and his Majesty's consuls at Lima. Not only these letters, with my commission, and a Peru- vian passport belonging to Mr. Hinde, an English gentle- man who has accompanied me from Truxillo, have been and are now detained by the military commandant of San- tarém, but, between two and three o'clock on the morning ^ APPENDIX. 457 of the 28th of March, Mr. Hinde and myself were awoke out of our sleep by about a dozen swords and pistols i)ointed at us, seized as prisoners, and my sword taken. We are not at present termed prisoners ; but as it is ne- cessary a representation of these proceedings should be made to the president of Para, 1 have to request you will meet me at the president's house as quickly as possible. I have the honour to be, Sir, Your obedient servant, H. L. Maw, Lieutenant in his Majesty's Royal Navy. On his Majesty's service. To the British Consul, Para. Vice-ConsuVs Office, Para, Idfh April, 1828. Most Excellent and Hon. Sir, It becomes my duty to acquaint your Excellency of the unkind and arbitrary usage offered by the authorities at Santarém towards two of his Britannic jMajesty's sub- jects, Henry Lister Maw, a Lieutenant in his Majesty's royal navy, and Mr. Richard Hinde, a private gentleman returning to England. In representing this case to your Excellency there are two points I would wish to call to your Excellency's par- ticular attention ; namely, that, in one instance, there has been committed a gross breach of the liberty and privilege of his Majesty's subjects, as secured to them by the treaty of commerce ; and in another a violation of that respect due to officers holding a commission under his Bri- tannic Majesty. The circumstances of the case have been verbally notified to your Excellency j however, they are 458 APPENDIX. briefly as follows : That Lieutenant Maw having left his Majesty's ship Menai at Lima, in November last, to return to England, he, with the approbation of Sir John Gordon Sinclair, the senior officer of his Majesty's vessels on the western coast of America, took the route of the Maraiion, bringing with him official documents from Sir John Gordon Sinclair, and from his Majesty's Consuls in Lima. He was joined by Mr. Hinde at Truxillo, who likewise resolved on taking the same route in returning to England. They proceeded without interruption until reaching Santarém, where having presented their passports to the military com- mandant at that place, they continued on their passage, but between two and three o'clock on the morning of the 28th March, they were awakened from their sleep by about a dozen swords and pistols pointed at them by men under command of an officer, seized as prisoners, and Lieutenant Maw's sword taken. They have subsequently been released, and the sword returned ; but the papers, consisting of Lieutenant Maw's commission, the letters from Sir John Gordon Sinclair, his Majesty's Consul's letters, and Mr. Hinde's Peruvian pass- port, have been detained to this day. As the same are transmitted by the military commandante at Santarém for your Excellency's inspection, I have to request that, after due investigation, your Excellency will be pleased to cause the same to be returned to the parties, and an inquiry into this extraordinary transaction made, not only that the recurrence of similar proceedings may, for the future, be averted, but also that the punishment of such offences may testify to the two individuals in question, and to the British nation at large, the high sense of regard your Excellency entertains for the amity happily existing between his Imperial and his Britannic Majesty's respective ^ APPENDIX. 459 governments ; and tendering your Excellency the assurance of my high consideration, 1 have the honour to be, Your Excellency's most obedient and very humble servant, (Signed) John Heskbth. To his Excellency the Baron de Bagé, &c. President of the Province of Para. Recibi a seu officio datado do 19 de corrente que accom- panha a reprezentaçaÕ do Tenente do marinha Britannica Henrique Lister Maw e Ricardo Hinde, pelo tratamento pauco civil que dizem receberão do commandante militar de Santarém, e dezejando en que se guardem nesta província todas as attençoens que por dirieto natural e dos gentes e pelos tratados saõ dividos á todos os súbditos das naçoens amigas e aliadas, ao mismo tempo que igualmente hé precizo conservar o regimen e practicas policias, son a participar lhe que esse commandante foi mandado suspender de seu impnego é que en darei as providencias que salgar necessá- rias i respeito da misma reprezentçao. Tendo se exami- nado pelo juiz competente os papeis dos ditos dois súbditos Britannicos que se acharão em forma pode vuestra merced vir a esta secretaria recebe los para serem entreghes a quem pertencem. Dias guarda a vuestra merced. Baron de Bage. Para Palácio de Governo, 21 de Abril, de 1828. Senhor John Hesketh, Vice Consul") da Natjao Britannica. J 460 APPENDIX. (Translation.) I received your despatch under date 19th inst., accom- panying the representation made by Lieutenant Henry Lister Maw, of the British navy, and Richard Hinde, of the improper treatment which they allege to have suffered from the military commandante of Santarém ; and desirous that throughout this province every attention should be shown that^ by the natural right, by the laws of nations, and by treaties, is due to the subjects of friendly and allied countries, without, at the same time, infringing on the order and political usages actually existing, I beg to observe for your information, that the said commandante has been suspended from his command, and that such measures will be taken as the nature of the complaint requires. The papers belonging to the above-mentioned British subjects having been examined by the competent authority, and found correct, may be sent for at this office. God preserve you, (Signed) Baron de Bage. Para, Government-house, 21st April, 1828. John Hesketh, Esq., Vice-consul 1 of the British Nation. j I, John Hesketh, his Britannic Majesty's Vice-consul for the province of Para, do hereby certify and attest unto all whom it doth, may, or shall concern, that the annexed are bona fide correct copies and a true translation of the correspondence relative to the case of Henry Lister Maw, a lieutenant in his Majesty's navy, and Richard Hinde, a private English gentleman. In testimony whereof I hereunto set my hand and affix my seal of office this 30th day of April, anno Domini 1828. Done in the city of Santa Maria de Belem de Gram Para. (Signed) John Hesketh, British Vice-consul. APPENDIX. 461 Illmo. Excmo. cnhor, Nas Fortalezas se deixa pasar. Para, Palácio de Governo, 2de Maio 1828, B. de Bage. Henry Lister Maw, natural de Inglaterra e Tenente de Marinha Inglesa que no Brigue Ingles Douglas pretende retinarse desta província por tanto. Pá V. Ex. seja servido mandar pasan lhe passaporte. Foi registado nesta Fortaleza da Barra do Para, 7 de Maio, 1828. (Signed) Ri li, Major Commandante. Eu JoaÕ Hesketh, vice-consul da Sua Magesta de Britan- nica na Província do Para, certifico á todos quantos per- tence saber que Henry Lister Maw hé súbdito de naçaò Britannica é Tenente de Marinha Inglesa, o qual pretenda fazer viagem para o Porto de Londres no Brigue Ingles Douglas do qual he mestre James Inch. Para, 2 de Maio de 1828. (Signed) JoaÕ Hesketh, Vice-consiU Britannico. N. II. Pg'' Selu, 40 y Para, 2 de Maio de 1828, (Signed) Cunha, Rebr. 462 APPENDIX. Illustrious and Excellent Sir. The Forts will allow him to pass. Para, Government House, 2 May, 1818. (Signed) B. de Bage. Henry Lister Maw, native of England, and Lieutenant of the British navy, intends leaving this province in the English Brig Douglas. May your Excellency therefore be pleased to order him a passport. Was registered in this Fort da Barra of Pará, 7 May, 1828. (Signed) Rili, Commandante* I, John Hesketh, vice-consul of his Britannic Majesty for the province of Pará, certify to all whom it pertaineth to know, that Henry Lister Maw is a subject of the British nation, and lieutenant of the British navy, whose inten- tion is to make a voyage for the port of London, in the English Brig Douglas, James Inch, master. (Signed) John Hesketh, British Vice-consul. No. 2. Paid for Seals 40 Para, 2 May, 1828. (Signed) Cunha, Rec. Kill ^ ••»■ APPENDIX. 4G3 Translations of Papers relative to the river Ucaijali and the tribes and settlements on its banks, received from the Secretary of the Minister of the Interior of Peru. * El Peruano,' June 28th, 182G. The documents published in the celebrated work, called the ' Mercúrio Peruano,' are without doubt tlie Ijcst con- cerning the interior of Peru. Since its discontinuance, there have only appeared, from time to time, fabulous accounts, forged by persons who never saw the places of which they speak; and whatever is really known of the manners, customs, laws, and industry of the savage tribes who in- habit the other side of the Maranon, is exchisively due to the information given by the missionaries. Availing our- selves of some information received officially by the govern- ment, respecting the state and progress of the missions of the river Ucayali, from the year 1790 to that of 1818, we present to our readers an extract of the most remarkable therein contained. The missions of Manoa having been lost by the murder of fifteen missionaries who served in them, — in the year 1790 notice was given in the College of Ocopa, that the savages solicited missionaries to form anew the pueblos they had destroyed ; and in consequence of this notice Friar Francisco Girbal was directed to proceed from Cambasa, where he was living, to Manoa, with the assistance that the governor of Mainas would give him, in order to ascertain the triie intentions of the savages. Being well received, and returning with favourable accounts that 464 APPENDIX. the missions could be re-established^ the following year he went ao;ain with other missionaries, and havins collected the Setevos and Cunibos tribes, commenced their restoration by establishing the pueblo of Sarayacu, in latitude 6° 35' S., and longitude 302° 15' from the island of Fierro, in a very appropriate situation, contiguous to a " quebrada" of the same name, and less than a league distant from the Ucayali. About the same time, those Christians of the province of Mainas who had been taken from the banks of these rivers by the Jesuits, according to the method of conquest or reduction practised by them, began to join the missions. With the Christians came also more of the Setevos, who brought others of various nations whom they had adopted as their children or slaves, and a population of about eight hundred souls was formed. But the convertors finding that the Setevos and Cunibos did not agree whilst living together, in the year 1792 they founded another pueblo for the latter, leaving the Setevos in Sarayacu. The situation where the settlement of Cunibos was begun being inundated, they removed to that called San Antonio de Chanchaguya, near a quebrada of the same name, in lat. 6° 5' S., long. 302° 24'. The Piros, who inhabit the higher parts of the Ucayali, which are understood to be the rivers Paru or Yanativi, Tambo and Cusa, hearing of the new establishments, came down to see them ; but after remain- ing for some time, they returned to their country. In 1794, another troop of Piros came and established themselves a short distance below Sarayacu, where a mis- sionary was sent to assist and make friends with them ; but becoming sickly, and several of them dying, the rest retired. Notwithstanding, others arrived in succession, augmenting in numbers, until the year 1799, when a pueblo, called Our > APPENDIX. 465 Lady of the Pillar of Bepuano, was founded for them in hit. 6° 55', long. 302' 18' , between the Ucayahand a large lake formerly made by that river. The Shipos, who inhabited the banks of the rivers Pisqui and Aquaitia, were irreconcilable enemies of the Setevos and Cunibos ; but the missionaries, by their [)atience and sagacity, made them friends^ and in the year 1S09 they founded the pueblo of San Luis of Charamana, in hit. S'' 15' S., long. 302° 2, four days' journey np the river l^i.squi, from its confluence with the Ucayali. This pueblo being far from the others, it was thought right to assist it with one of Cunibos, which might serve as a security in that transit ; and the year 1811 the pueblo of San Buenaventura de Cuntamana was established in lat. T 13 S., long. 302' 37'. In the same and the following years the Padre Prefect Friar Manuel Plaza pacificated the tribe of Sencis, divided into Inubus, Runubus, and Cascas ; consisting of more than a thousand souls, but which was reduced, from more than two hundred, to fifty families. The survivors were after- wards re-united, with the exception of the party Runubus, who, alarmed at the mortality, retired to the woods, which they seldom leave. This settlement is named Charuya, and is in lat. 6° 36' S., and long. 302" 53'. It is one of the best on the Ucayali ; the passage to it is up the small stream Sahuaya, across a lake of a league in extent, and which is full of weeds, and afterwards up the quebrada Chanuya : there is also a route by land. The passage from Sarayacu occupies one day during the rainy season, and more when the river is low. Knowing that the nation of the Piros was very numerous, and that only a few of them lived in the pueblo of Bepauno, the prefect thought of reducing them, and, at the same time, 2 H 466 APPENDIX. observing the inconvenience of the long and troublesome route by the river Guallaga, he formed the project of open- ing a communication with the missions, by the river Tambo, and of abandoning the passage by the Guallaga. By the new route he would not only facilitate frequent intercourse with the Piros^ but would approximate the missions of the Pajonal, the Cerro de Sal, and Sonomoro^ which were lost in the insurrection of Santos Atahualpa^ in the year 1742, without its having been in the power of the state to re-esta- bUsh them. Accordingly he left Manoa to arrange, and^ if possible, to carry this project into execution ; and, consult- ing with the other padres of the college, a plan was con- certed for giving a beginning to the execution of this inter- esting undertaking. In consequence of their arrangements, two expeditions set out, one from Manoa, for the upper part of the Ucayali, the other from Andomarca, by the lower Pangoa, to seek for the old embarking place of Jesus Maria, which was happily found in the month of Jane, 1815, half way up the river Tambo. From that time obstacles were begun to be re- moved, and more than a hundred and thirty families of Piros being united, the pueblo of Santa Rosa, or Lima Rosa^ was founded in lat. 10° 30' S., and long. 303° 40' of Fierro, near the confluence of the river Tambo with the Paru, Yami, or Yanatiri ; and the families of this reduction extended so as to keep up a communication. To sustain this undertaking, the fort of San Buena- ventura de Chavini was built in the year 1815, on the ruins of the former mission of the same name in lat. 11° 40' S., long. 302° 24' ; and the garrisons of Uchibamba, Lomas, and Andamarca were quartered in it. To keep open the new route, an annual expedition was also established, to leave Sara- APPENDIX. 467 yacu for Chavini, conveying the remittance that was formerly sent by the Guallaga, exposed to continual clanger from the numerous whirlpools or rapids of that ' fastidioso ' river. Besides the pueblos of the missions there are various habitations of infidel (infieles) Cunibos and Schipios, scat- tered upon the banks of the Ucayali. In the year 1791, the missionaries began to baptize the young children ; and thus there must be amongst them many Christians buried in barbarism, and without any other acquaintance with religion than the very confused ideas that they may possibly have acquired amongst the missionaries and Chris- tian domestics, in their occasional visits to the missions. These visits have afforded the infidels and the neophytes some instruction; but as they have objected to living in the pueblos, and the missionaries have not been in a situation to oblige them to attend to a daily lesson in the Christian doctrines, they cannot possibly have made much progress ; those only have attended who have been bought when children from the infidels, and bred up in the missions : by them, the number of Christians has been increased, and they have served as a defence for the security of the settlements. The missionaries observed that all the savage tribes live in a state of continual warfare, and that even those under their direction entertain similar feelings towards others in the interior. In these regions polygamy is usual, and the savages make war on each other for the purpose of carry- ing off the women. When they meet with any path or human vestige in the woods, they immediately put them- selves on the alert, follow the track, and attack the huts they may discover, by night ; they kill the men, and make the women and children prisoners^ dividing them amongst themselves, or the most powerful takes them for his slaves. 2h2 468 APPENDIX. Of these prisoners, it is customary to sell the male chil- dren, but they very seldom part with the females, however young, as they bring them up to give their sons. The Christians, who buy the males, educate them, and after they have arrived at a proper age, do not object to mariying them to their daughters. The tribes scattered along the banks of the Ucayali and its collaterals, of whom there is any certain information, are the following : — the Mayorunas, who occupy the angle that the Ucayali forms with the Maraiion on the right, extend- ing almost to the river Auanacha. This tribe is very nu- merous, and deserves with propriety the title of nation, as they have an idiom entirely distinct from all others. From what has been observed of those who lived in Sarayacu, they appeared to be docile and industrious ; they say it would not be difficult to reduce their relations. The Capa- nahuas, or Busquipanes, are also settled to the southward : their reduction was attempted in 1817, but with little or no success, on account of an epidemic that attacked them im- mediately on leaving the Ucayali, when they took flight and returned to their huts. These savages go entirely naked, and from a sort of piety eat their deceased parents, smok- ing and roasting them in the same manner as they do the animals that they catch in the woods. They are divided into different parties, and speak a dialect that is partly understood by those who know the Puna language. There is an account of a very numerous nation who are said to live united in large pueblos, on the banks of ano- ther river, as large as the Ucayali, that runs north and south, and is to the eastward ; they are contiguous to another nation, that makes war upon them to carry off their women. On the south, they join the Sencis, who are docile and cheerful, have an agreeable physiognomy, and APPENDIX. 469 are much feared by their enemies. Like the Capanahuas, they go entirely naked, the only mark of modesty being a confining band that is worn round the waist by the men, and which is general amongst all the tribes of the Ucayali who do not wear clothes. Their custom is to burn the dead and drink the ashes in chicha. The Remos extend from the cerros of Chanchaguaya to Abayan ; they live in the interior of the woods, and seldom come to the Ucayali. They a[)pear to be a large and valorous nation, speaking a dialect little different from that of the Sencis, whom they much resem])le. The Cunibos have at different times attacked them, to carry off their women and children. The Amahuacas occupy all the country contained be- tween the large rivers Cuja and Ucayali, and the two collaterals Tamaya and Sipahua. The Piros and Cunibos capture many of these people ; and, from the accounts they give, and the observations that have been made, it is in- ferred that they are docile and would be easy to reduce, as they are not so stupid as the Indians of this Montana in general are. All the above-mentioned tribes inhabit the right bank of the Ucayali. On the left are the following : — The Hottentots, or Pinhuas, of whom there was formerly no account. It has not as yet been discovered to what tribe they belong, or by what name they are distinguished : they have been compared to the Hottentots of Africa, on account of their filthiness. The Panos calls them Puina- hucy, which is an indecent expression ; they were casually discovered in the year 1811 , living on an island, that was also discovered in a similar manner. For some time they frequented the missions, but afterwards disappeared sud- denly, and no vestige of them has been seen in the island, nor is it known where they have gone. 470 APPENDIX. The Maparis live between the Ucayali and the Guallaga. Vestiges of them are continually seen on the high road from Santa Catalina to Chipurana : their drums are some- times heard ; and it is remarkable that a hatchet of copper n^ has been seen amongst them : those they generally use are made of stone. They appear to be very peaceable, for in all the communications that the missionaries have carried on along that road, no injury has been done, nor was it ever known that any was intended. The Sete vos, as we have before said, live united in Sarayacu ; the Pana is their native language, and they also speak the ' lengua general"* of the Incas. The Schipios extend along the Pisqui, from the reduction of Charasmana to its sources. They formerly inhabited the banks of the Agnaditia, but being persecuted by the Cashibos, they came down to the Ucayali to unite them- selves with the Cunibos. They assist the passengers coming to, or going from the missions, and are domestic ; their manners are serious and austere ; they speak the Pana language with some deviation. The Piros occupy the remainder of the Ucayali, and extend along the Paru-Yanti, or Yanatari, as far as it is navigable^ but the greater number of them live on the banks of the river Cuja, which river, up to the present time, is known only by the accounts given by them : it is supposed to be the Paucartambo, or the Beni, or perhaps the same which the Portuguese call Gavari ; the Cunibos say it com- municates with the Ucayali by the small* stream or river Tamaya. The Cashibos, a barbarous and cruel people, who are the terror of the Ucayali, are scattered along the rivers Pachi- ter, Sipiria, and Aguatia, and extend to the banks of the Ucayali, where they lose no opportunity of injuring whomever they may meet with« They are extremely difficult to APPENDIX. 471 reduce, and are known to eat human flesh. *^ Y esta averi- guado que son antropófagos;" fortunately they do not use either canoes or balsas, and are thus prevented from doin^^ injury beyond the limits they occupy. Such expeditions as have been sent among them have ])roved useless and attended with danger. They speak the Pana language with some variation, and circumcise the women iu the same manner as the Setevos, Cunibos, Piros, and Schipios. The Campas, Antis, or Andes extend from (he frontiers of Cuzco to those of Tarma, divided into numerous parties. Some families of them are scattered along the banks of the river Tambo, from Sisipaqui to Jesus Maria ; from what has been observed of late years, they live in a state of enmity and incommunity among themselves. The infidels who have been seen near the new settlement of Chavini, and various others met with in that neighbourhood, are all of this nation, as are also those who inhabit the Eni and Pereni, the Cerro de Sal, Pajonal, and the rest that com- posed the twenty-eight pueblos lost in 1743. Their lan- guage is entirely different from others. Although the title of nations has been given to each of these tribes on account of their being found separate, strictly there are not more than five nations, that being the number of distinct languages hitherto discovered on the Ucayali and its collaterals. The Spanish missionaries planned the uniting a large population at the point of Lima Rosa, bringing from the province of Maynas such families as might voluntarily choose to reside there, in order to carry on their under- takings in the interior from the new reduction, and succes- sively to proceed step by step to civilize the wandering tribes ; but this project it was not in the power of the missionaries to execute — they were wanting in the simple 472 APPENDIX. and steady method of attracting men to the enjoyment of social hfe by a sense of the benefits to be derived. Shutting themselves up in the sphere of religion, it commonly fol- lov^^ed that the infidels, not being prepared for their doctrines ^ listened to their mysteries as pleasing fables when they preached with suavity ; or became exasperated when they would have made them attend by threats ; and, in the end, the missionaries lost their lives, as has been explained by Padre Caravallo in his account, dated July 1818. The principal rivers of these missions are the following : — • The Ucayaliy a large river that discharges itself into the Maranon in lat. 4° 14' S. long. 305° 25' from the island of Fierro. It was formerly called " Aucayale," which, in the lansuase of the Omaguas, means the '^ river of enemies." It takes this name from the junction of the Parobeni with the Tambo, by the united waters of which it is formed. The Parobeni, which in the Piros language signifies the " pure river," rises not far from Cuzco, and entering the Montana by the A^alley of Santa Ana, proceeds principally to the north without deviating, until it enters the Maranon, ex- cepting the large turns it takes in the Pampa del Sacramento. It loses its name at its junction with the Tambo in lat. 10° 31' S. longitude 304° 36', and then becomes the Ucayali. The Tambo — this river is formed by the Apurimac, Pan- goa, and Chanchamayo : it takes its name near lat. 15° 7' S. (it is 15° 70' in the Peruvian paper, which is of course an oversight) long. 303° 30. It loses its name with its con- fluence with the Parobeni. The Apurimac is a river well known in Peru ; it enters the Montaíãa by the missions of Huanca and the lands of the infidels Antis or Campas ; it joins the Jauja near lat. 12°S., long. 303°4'. The Pangoa — this river joins the ^ Marameric in lat. APPENDIX. 473 ir 19' S. long. 302" 30', from which point it leaves its former course, and follows that of the Marameric to the N. e. until it unites with the Chanchamayo near lat. 10' 45' S. long. 303° 25'. The Marameric — this river rises in the cow-pastures, ' vaqueria,' of St. Miguel, five leagues to the eastward of Andamarca; it soon enters the Montana, and is joined by various rivulets which descend from the hills. It runs to the N.E. until it is incorporated with the Pangoa ; it then loses its name, bu^^does not change its course until it reaches the Chanchamayo. The Chanchamayo rises near Tarma, and runs in a N.N.E. direction as far as 11°20' S.; it then inclines more to the eastward, until it reaches the Cerro de Sal, whence it follows an invariable easterly course to its confluence with the other rivers that form the Tambo. On the banks of the former, and of those that form the last, were the old missions of the Cerro de Sal, which were lost by the insurrection of Juan Santos Ataguallpa. I do not altogether understand this sentence, therefore copy the original. " A orillas de aquel y de los otros que forman este ultimo, estaban las antiguas missiones del Cerro de la Sal, perdidas por la sublevacion de Juan Santos Ataguallpa." 474 APPENDIX. Further Information relative to the interior of Peru, taken from the Peruano of the loth of August, 1827. Prefectura of Junin. Tarma, August 6th, 1827. To the Minister of State for the administration of pubhc affairs and exterior relations. Sr. Ministro, According to the intention I announced to your Ex- cellency in my last communication, on the 20th, I set out for the purpose of examining the progress made in the formation of the road of Chanchamayo, and on the 22d reached the commencement of the woods where the work- men are employed. Thence I endeavoured to reconnoitre the valley, but was prevented by a continued mist. At one time the horizon cleared for a few moments, but the extent of the valley rendered it impossible to form any correct idea ; and being desirous of making a strict examination, and of ascertaining whether the accounts given of it were correct, I determined on advancing with a troop of seventy-five men provisioned for twelve days. On the 22d we proceeded over the ridge of a hill, and on the 23d descended into a narrow valley to search for water, that we had brought with us having been expended, and also to look for a better track, the woods during the previous day having been so impenetrable that fifteen men with hatchets, who formed the vanguard, could not clear even a small footpath. At twelve o'clock we reached the bottom of the valley, and after passing over numerous rocks and precipices, at three in the afternoon of the 24th arrived at Puntayacu, where we found the old road that descended by the valley ; we also observed several fishing stakes made •\j APPENDIX. 475 by the Indians, which proved that the valley was inhabited. Being aware of this, and having dried our clothes which had been wetted by the furious rains of the preceding nights, at eight o'clock in the morning of the 25th we continued our march, and at noon discovered three Indians fishinir. I immediately advanced with the guide and three officers, leaving the troop concealed. Proceeding under cover of some shrubs, I got within about eight yards of one of them who had come out of the water to cut branches, when I was dis- covered by a dog they had with them. U{)on his barking, they caught sight of us, and in an instant rushed down the bank, full of surprise, leaving their arrows, ' morrales ' (little bags), and one of their dresses. I remit you a bow and four arrows, a piece of cotton cloth, which is their only dress, and a morral, which is full of all kinds of chismes (literally a variety of lumber of little value), and in which they are said to place all their happi- ness. Wishing to show them that our intentions were not hostile, we did not pursue them, but stood still, held up the arrows and a morral, and endeavoured, by shouting and by making signs whenever they turned their faces, to induce them to return and take the things they had left; but it was all in vain ; they only hurried the faster, and after losing sight of them, we proceeded on our march. At a few ^cuadras' distance (a cuadra is the length of a street, or side of a square), we arrived at two small huts, in which we found only a fire and four roasted yucas, which was all the provision of these poor beings. I took them, but gave directions that they should not be used, in order that they might be returned in case we should again see the Indians. We then proceeded until we arrived opposite the place where there was formerly a fort ; and at four in the after- noon halted on the banks of the river, at the confluence 476 APPENDIX. of the Ocsabamba. The night was as rainy as the pre- ceding ones had been, and as soon as the sun rose we went to a playa to dry our apparel, in order that we might proceed to the confluence of the Monobamba, where the '^ level terminates. Whilst the officers and the soldiers were thus occupied, a considerable number of arrows were discharged from amongst the bushes on the opposite side of the river^ which is not more than three-quarters of a cuadra broad, and Captain Don Manuel Milan and a soldier were wounded. I and all the troop immediately put ourselves out of reach of the arrows. Having rescued the wounded, and ascertained that their wounds were not dangerous, I desired the soldiers to speak to the Indians in the Quichua language, (the inter- preter I had ordered to be sent from Comas not having arrived,) and to tell them that the Spanish authority no longer existed, that we were our own governors, and their brothers and friends. To this and several other things that were said to them, they answered in the same language, that they did not wish to have communication with us. After talking to them for some time, finding they did not discharge any more arrows, I desired some of the soldiers to go and collect the clothes, when they immediately re- commenced hostilities with their arrows. Nevertheless we collected all that were on the playa, and removed to the distance of about three cuadras, where we remained until the 27th, and then began our return through the middle of the level, with the two wounded men, assuring such of the Indians as remained in their places that I would soon return, and we would live together as friends. From the information I have been enabled to obtain, respecting this district, 1 consider it beyond comparison the most beautiful I have seen in Peru, and its fertihty is, I APPENDIX. 477 believe, unlimited. In the two different routes taken we met with innumerable plants of coca of superior quality, and the leaves of extraordinary size, as your Excellency will see by the few I send. We also found trees of all descriptions, bitter oranges, lemons, and cocoa-nut palms. On the hills, which we descended to the level, we met with some cascarilla, of which I at present send only one piece, as I shall soon remit a large quantity, in order that experiments may be made. I cannot fmd expressions to describe the diíTiculties and roughness of the road. The steady perseverance of the troop merits commendation. The road will be finished in the course of this month, and the time is arrived for indus- trious persons to make preparations for cultivating this de- lightful country. By the next post I shall have the honour of proposing measures which appear to me best calculated for peopling Chanchamayo ; there is not time to do so by this post, and the state of my health, from having walked eleven days on foot, will not permit me. Senor Ministro, be pleased to submit this information to the consideration of his Excellency the President, and to assure him that I shall never omit making any sacrifice for the good of this department and of the republic in general ; and that, animated by these principles, as soon as my health is a little established, I shall proceed to urge on the mines of Pasco. God preserve your Excellency. F. P. Otero. 478 APPENDIX. Prospectus of the Expedition to the River Maranon, ad^ dressed officially to the Minister of the Interior by Cap- tain Carter, of the Peruvian Navy. Received from Captain Carter. Lima, June 2Sth, 1826. Sir, In virtue of the orders communicated to me by you in your official letter of the 17th current, in which it has pleased the supreme government to appoint me for the sur- vey of the river Maranon, as well as to explore the interior regions of Peru, I take the liberty of suggesting that in order to ensure the final success of such an important and hazardous enterprise, an officer of merit, who possesses the confidence of the government, should be appointed to go as my second, as in such cases as sickness, or death, he could proceed to complete the objects of the expedition. I have also to request that the expedition may be accom- panied by a draughtsman, who can be recommended from one of the colleges of this city, for the purpose of delineating all such animal, vegetable, and natural productions as that tract of territory through which the expedition takes its route abounds with. A sangrador also will be very necessary, in case of acci- dents in those places where no surgical aid can be had. A faithful interpreter of the Indian language is also much wanted. It will be necessary to provide a quantity of spirits, to- bacco, iron, hardware and cutlery, to give the Caciques, with an escort of at least fifty good troops : to ensure our APPENDIX. 479 personal safety, they should be provided with plenty of arras and ammunition. A list of necessaries, viz. — Two carpenters and two caulkers. A small case of medicines. One barometer. One thermometer. Artificial horizon. A level. Two small compasses. One pendulum. A quantity of pens, ink, and paper, wafers and wax. Marguilla for maps and charts. Mules for myself, officers, and servants, from this to Tarma. A sum of money to provide for the traveling expenses of the individuals composing the expedition, as well as for casualties, at the discretion of the government. 480 APPENDIX. Directions given me at Lima, by a person of the name of Martinez, lyroprietor of an estate on the higher part of the river Guallaga. The Guallaga is navigable to Lamas ; in that village it is desirable not to trust much to the inhabitants, particularly the women ; to refuse what they offer, and never to complain of indisposition, as in such case they offer various medi- cinal drinks, which if you do not take they are much an- noyed, though you repeatedly tell them not to persist. The inhabitants on the left bank of the river are better, and more tractable than those on the right bank. When the Indians make a noise in passing some particu- lar part of the river, it is a sign of danger, but in general not of much consequence. It is advisable to accept what the Indians offer, as you otherwise lose their confidence ; it is always well to be in the vicinity of the curas, and still better to be near the governors. Do not neglect to take with you fish-hooks of different sizes, ribbons of bright colours, in pieces, some knives, looking-glasses, and copper rings, with stones in them. Never sleep on the ground ; and endeavour to take with you a piece of ' juorco^' which is an antidote for poison : it is a species of bejuco, and is to be met with imme- diately on entering the Montana. The game killed by poisoned arrows may be eaten without fear, as the poison made use of is a narcotic, but not deadly when eaten. ^ APPENDIX. 481 Description of a Shell got at Toulea, on the Andas. Extracted from the Fourteenth Number of the Zoological Jnnrnnl. New Land-Shell from South America, described by W. J. Broderip, Esq., F.R.S., F.L.S., Sec. G.S. Balinus Labeo. B. testa ovato-producta, fusco-castanea, apicem versus rubra fusco varia ; anfractibus sex, ventricosis, ultimo fasciis 2 nisjis, hac media, ilia suturali, penúltimo fasciis 2 nis^ris saturalibus ; columella dente obtuso insigni, labio crassissimo, reflexo, supra pallide castaneo, infra nigro ; apertura intus albida. Tab. Supp. XXXI. Mus. Soe. Zool. Habitat in sylvis Peruvianis. Shell stout, long oval, of a brown chestnut colour, chano:- ing to red at the apex, and on the upper -svhorls, which last are longitudinally striped with reddish brown towards the suture. Whorls six, ventricose ; the last has a narrow black band across its middle, and another of the same colour close to the suture, which is white ; the last whorl but one has two narrow black bands, both near the sutures ; the lower bands on the last and penultimate whorls are each thrice interrupted. On the last whorl, near the base, which is very dark, is a faint, broad, lighter coloured band. The colu- mella is remarkable for its obtuse white tooth, surrounded by the rich dark colouring of the aperture. The right lip is of huge thickness, and much reflected : above, it is of a light chestnut colour ; below, of a rich brownish japan-like black, which, particularly where it is shading off into the chestnut, gives, when the light is thrown full on it, the same kind of iridescent appearance as is seen in the lumachelia, or fire marble. The lower edge of this rich lip is punctured pretty thickly with dots, resembling those of cyprsea testu- dinaria which seem filled with a whitish opaque substance 482 APPENDIX. and the formation of which has given an irregular and almost fungus-Uke appearance to the reflected border of the lip, on its upper side. The interior of the aperture is white. Length, three inches ; breadth, measured across the body whorl, and including the lip, one inch and six- eighths. Observations on the Tapir, which died within a few hours after its arrival at the Zoological Society'^s Garden, Re- gen fs Park, By William Yarrell, Esq., F.L.S. Art. xxii. No. XIV. Zoological Journal. When dead, the whole length of the animal from the nose to the root of the tail was 48 inches ; the girth 35 inches. Its colour was a rusty reddish brown, with indications of lighter spots and horizontal lines on the ribs, flanks, and thighs. These fawn-coloured spots and stripes are common to both species of Tapir while young ; that of Sumatra not exhibiting, till it is six months old, any appearance of the well-defined black and white colour, which afterwards dis- tinguishes the adult animal. The shape is well known. The incisor teeth f , very much used, the edges coming into contact when the molars act. The canines ^ -j > those of the upper jaw small, apd removed a short distance from the lateral incisor, to admit the interposition of the larger ca- nines of the lower jaw. The molars in this young animal were f $.: of those in the lower jaw, the first has three lobes, with five points ; the second and third two lobes, with four points. Of the four in the upper jaw, the first has two outer, and one inner point : the other three molars have each two lobes with four points ; all the parallel points or tubercles are connected transversely by a slight triangular ^ APPENDIX. 483 ridge ; each of these triangular ridges, \vilh their connected tubercles, shutting into similarly sha{)ed cavities in the teeth opposed to them, throughout the whole length of their con- tinuous surfaces. The second, third, and fourth molars of the upper jaw have each a small additional, but less elevated, point on the external anterior angle, increasing somewhat in size from the second tooth backwards. On cutting throuirh the palatal bones for the more complete removal of the brain, the crown of another molar tooth was found on each side, posterior to, and somewhat within the line of range of the last exposed molar. This tooth exhibited the fifth tu- bercle of yet increased magnitude. The skin having been taken off for preservation, the car- tilage of the septum narium was observed to be thick and strong, and the central ridge of the cranium very much ele- vated. The ligamentum nuchce consisted of three strong cord-like portions, two of which passing in a parallel direc- tion, from the elongated spinous process of the first dorsal vertebra, were inserted together upon the extreme superior posterior angle of the central ridge of the cranium, support- ing the whole length of the elevated crest and mane. The third portion of this strong ligament passed beneath the other two, to be inserted into the most elevated part of the elongated spinous process of the vertebra dentata. The anterior portion of the sternum projected forwards, keel-like in form, and rounded. The ribs were twenty in number on each side, the lumbar vertebrce four. The tra- cheal cartilages were firm, but the rings were incomplete throughout ; the lungs consisted, on the right side, of one large and one small lobe ; on the left, of one large and two small lobes, bearing evident marks of inflammation. The pericardium was loaded with fat, and appeared of unusual thickness ; the heart presented nothing remarkable, 212 ^ 484 APPENDIX. but the arteries were particularly thick and firm in their coats. The ossophagus was narrow, the stomach a single cavity, and rather small, measuring, when moderately distended with air, about 8 inches from right to left, and 15A inches in circumference ; the parietes thickened about the pylorus, but as it was considered desirable to preserve this organ entire, its internal surface was not examined. The stomach contained a loose mass of tow, hair, string, and shreds of cloth. % The spleen was narrow, thin in substance, and twelve inches in length. The liver was distinctly divided into four lobes, two of which, one large and one small, were placed on the right side ; and two large equal lobes occupied the left side, the inferior one of these being partly divided and notched on the edge. The tapir, like the rhinoceros, has no gall bladder. The small intestines were uniform in size throughout their whole length, and measured twenty-one feet ; they also bore marks of inflammation. The caecum was capacious, compared with the stomach and measured fourteen inches in the line of its longest axis, and twenty-four inches in girth at the largest part, having two deep and several smaller circular indentations externally, and marked with one strong longitudinal band on each surface ; tapering somewhat to a point at its closed extre- mity, but without any appendix vermiformis. The colon, at the distance of two feet from its commence- ment, suddenly doubled upon itself, forming a fold of sixteen inches in length, the inner surfaces of which were closely connected. The whole length of the large intestines was seven feet. APPENDIX. 485 The sexual organs were those of a female; and from the degree of vascularity which pervaded the uterus, comua and ovaria, it is probable the animal was ap|)roaching that period of her life at which she would have commenced breeding. In the Philosophical Transactions for the year 1321, Sir Everard Home, Bart., has pointed out the diilerences that exist in the crania of the tapirs of Sumatra and America ; and has also described part of the viscera of the former. On comparison, some differences will also be found in the soft parts. In the tapir of Sumatra the stomach is large, the intestinal canal very long, the ccscum small ; in the American species, the stomach is small, the intestines of moderate length, the caecum large. The dentition of the two animals is similar. Of the species described ; — The length of the tapir of Sumatra is eight feet. Whole length of its intestinal canal eighty-nine feet, six inches. Proportion as 11 to 1. Length of the American tapir, four feet. Whole-length of its intestinal canal, twenty-eight feet. Proportion as 7 tol. There is ajar of poison in Mr. Brodie's hands, and some specimens of natural productions, &c. at the Adelphi Society, of which I have not received an account. x/V 486 APPENDIX. Extract from the Transactions of the Society instituted at London for the Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures, and Commerce, The following articles have been received from Lieut. H. L. Maw, R.N. Several of the substances enumerated in the annexed list are now under examination, and will probably be reported on in the next volume of Transactions. Red fécula, prepared from the leaves of a large tree, the Bignonia chicha of Humboldt, from the Rio Negro. Indigo, from the Rio Negro, Seed vessel of the Bixa Orellana, which produces annat- to ; in powder. Vanilla (probably of at least two species) from Pevas in Peru, and other places. Tonquin beans, from the Rio Negro. Cinnamon, from the Rio Negro. Tobacco, from Moyobamba. Sarsaparilla, from Laguna. Sassafras nuts (putuchere), from the Rio Negro. Cocoa, wild, from the Ucayali and Guallaga. Coffee, from Moyobamba. Cotton, wild and cultivated, from the Ucayali, Moyobam- ba, and Cochiquenas. Balsam of Capivi, from Moyobamba. A poisonous root, used by the Indians of Laguna for taking fish ; together with several unknown barks, seeds, and resins. THE END. > LONDON: Printed by WILLIAM CLOWES, Stamford-street. ^ ^ RETURN CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT TO— ► 202 Main Library 642-3403 LOAN PERIOD 1 2 3 4 5 ( 5 LIBRARY USE This book is due before closing time on the last date stamped below DUE AS STAMPED BELOW FORM NO. DD6A UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, BERKELEY BERKELEY, CA 94720 ^li CDM7ôSlba7 1