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 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
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 PRESENTED BY 
 
 PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND 
 
 MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID 
 
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THE 
 
 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS 
 
 OF 
 
 AND 
 
 K. [g[E!LZ@KlBp 
 
 AN INTERESTING HISTORY 
 
 OF THE 
 
 iWantieriJ, ©uj^tomisf, anDf fflfiaracteriBf 
 
 OF 
 
 VA[^0@(y)g [N1^TQ@[N1^', 
 
 SELECTED BY 
 
 CAPTAIN JOHN FREDERICK DENNETT, R. N. 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 PUBLISHED BY WILLIAM WRIGHT. 
 13, ST. George's road, southwark. 
 
 1835. 
 
J. M^Gowariy 16, Great Windmill Street , London. 
 
VOYAGES AND TRAVELS, 
 
 OF 
 
 CAPTAIN PARRY. 
 
 AND OTHERS. 
 
 M. HE very great interest which the Voyages of Capt. 
 Parry have excited in the public mind, cannot but render 
 a narrative of the occurrences valaable to all classes of read- 
 ers. Tlie journals already published embrace a volu- 
 minous account, interesting to nautical and scientific men, 
 but of little importance to the general reader. 
 
 The narrative presented in the succeeding pages embraces 
 only those incidents which will lead the reader to appreciate 
 more than ever the blessings he enjoys, under the protec- 
 tion of just laws, mildly and equitably administered. It 
 is said that history is philosophy teaching by example : 
 when the reader is introduced to a knowledge, that there 
 are many of his fellow men who have a very limited supply 
 even of the necessaries of life, with the almost entire priva~ 
 tion of those social and other comforts which are placed 
 within the grasp of almost every individual of the Britisb 
 empire, how will he be led to be satisfied in the station of 
 life assigned him ; and instead of murmuring that he has 
 not all he desires, he will feel sentiments of gratitude that 
 his comforts are so numerous as they are. To draw such 
 conclusions is the proper duty of the reader ; and then only 
 education becomes useful to society, when the information 
 P. V. 1 B 
 
■*i 
 
 2 parry's voyage to 
 
 it obtains influences and regulates tlie will and affections^ 
 and produces order and propriety of conduct. 
 
 The idea of a passage to the East Indies by the North 
 Pole was suggested as early as the year 1527, by Robert 
 Thorne, merchant, of Bristol, as appears from two papers 
 preserved by Hackluit ; the one addressed to king Henry 
 VIII ; the other to Dr. Ley, the king's ambassador to 
 Charles V. In that^ addressed to the king he says, " I 
 know it to be my bounden duty to manifest this secret to 
 your grace, which hitherto, 1 suppose, has been hid." 
 This secret appears to be the honour and advantage which 
 would be derived from the discovery of a passage by the 
 North Pole. He represents in the strongest terms the 
 glory which the kings of Spain and Portugal had obtained 
 by their discoveries East and West, and exhorts the king 
 to emulate their fame by. undertaking discoveries towards 
 tike North. He states in a very masterly style the reputa- 
 tion that must attend the attempt, and the great benefits 
 likely to accrue to the subjects of this country, from their 
 advantageous situation, should it be crowned with success, 
 which, he observes, seems to make the exploring this, the 
 only hitherto undiscovered part, the king's peculiar duly. 
 
 To remove any objection to the undertaking which might 
 be drawn from the supposed danger, he insists upon *' the 
 great advantages of constant day-light in seas, that men 
 say, without great danger, difficulty, and peril, yea, rather, 
 it is impossible to pass ; for they being past this little way 
 which they named so dangerous (which may be two or three 
 leagues before they come to the Pole, and as much more 
 after they pass the Pole), it is clear from thenceforth the 
 seas and lands are as temperate as in these parts." 
 
 In the paper addressed to Dr. Ley he enters more mi- 
 nutely into the advantages and practicabiHty of the under- 
 taking. Amongst many other arguments to prove the 
 value of the discovery, he urges, that by sailing northward 
 aud passing the Pole, the navigation from England to the 
 
 ^Jltf^Otf^^n^cvtrr 
 
THE NORTH POtE. ^ 
 
 Spice Islcinds would be shorter, by more than two (hoii« 
 sand leagues, than either from Spain by the straits^ of Ma- 
 gellan, or Portugal by the Cape of Good Hope ; and to shew 
 the likelihood of success in the enterprize he says, it is as 
 probable that the cosmographers should be mistaken in the 
 opinion they entertain of the polar regions being impassa- 
 ble from extreme cold, as, it has been found, they were, in 
 supposing the countries under the line to be uninhabitable 
 from excessive heat. With all the sj)irit of a man convinced 
 of the glory ta be gained, and the probability of success in 
 the undertaking, he adds, — " God knoweth, that though 
 by it I should have no great interest, yet I have had, and 
 still have, no little mind of this business ; so that if 1 had 
 faculty to my will, it should be the first thing that 1 would 
 understand, even to attempt, if our seas northward be na- 
 vigable to the Pole or no " Notwithstanding the many 
 good arguments, with which he supported his proposition, 
 and the offer of his own services, it does not appear that he 
 prevailed so far as to procure an attempt to be made. 
 
 No voyage appears, indeed, to have been undertaken 
 to explore the polar seas, till the year 1607, when " Henry 
 Hudson was set forth, ai the charge of certain worshipful 
 merchants of London, to discover a passage by the North 
 Pole to Japan and China." He sailed from Gravesend on 
 the first of May, in a ship called the Hopewell, having with 
 him ten men and a boy. Great pains have been taken to 
 find his original journal, ar^ well as those of some others of 
 the adventurers who followed him ; but without success : 
 the only account is an imperfect abridgement in Purchas, 
 by which it is not possible to lay down his track ; from 
 which, however, are drawn the following particulars : — He 
 fell in with the land to the westward in latitude 73% on the 
 twenty-first of June, which he named Hold- with- Hope. 
 The twenty-seventh, he fell in with Spitsbergen, and met 
 with much ice; be got to 80° 23', which was the northern- 
 most latitude he observed in. Giving an account of th« 
 
4 PARRY S VOYAGE TO 
 
 conciusion of his discoveries, he says, *' On the sixteenth of 
 August I saw land, by reason of the clearness of the wea- 
 ther, stretching far into 82^*, and, by the bowing and shew- 
 ing of the sky, much farther; which when I first saw, I 
 hoped to have had a free sea between the land and the ice, 
 and meant to have compassed this land by the north ; but 
 now finding it was impossible, by means of the abundance 
 of ice compassing us about by the north, and joining to the 
 land ; and seeing God did bless us with a wind, we re- 
 turned, bearing up the helm.** He afterwards adds : 
 ** And this I can assure at this present, that between 78^**^ 
 and 82% by this way there is no passage.'*— In consequence 
 of this opinion, he was the next year employed on the north- 
 east discovery. 
 
 In March 1600, old style, " A voyage was set forth by 
 the right worshipful Sir Thomas Smith, and the rest of the 
 Muscovy Company, to Cherry Island, and for a further 
 discovery to be made toward the North Pole, for the likeli- 
 hood of a trade or passage that way, in the ship called the 
 Amity, of burthen seventy tons, in which Jonas Poole was 
 master, having fourteen men and one boy.** — He weighed 
 from Blackwall, March the first, old style ; and after great 
 severity of weather, and much difficulty from the ice, he 
 made the south part of Spitsbergen on the 16th of May. He 
 sailed along and sounded the coast, giving names to several 
 places, and making many very accurate observations. On 
 the 26th, being near Fair Foreland, he sent his mate on 
 shore ; — and in speaking of this at his return, says, '* More- 
 over, I was certified that all the ponds and lakes were un- 
 frozen, they being fresh water ; which putteth me in hope of 
 a mild summer here, after so sharp a beginning as I have 
 hud ; and my opinion is such, and I assure myself it is so, 
 that a passsage may be as soon attained this way .by the 
 Pole, as any unknown way whatsoever, by reason the sua 
 doth give a great heat in this climate, and the ice (I mean 
 
THE NORTH POLE. 5 
 
 that freezeth here) is aothing so huge as I have seen In 
 seventy-three degrees." 
 
 These hopes, however, he was soon obliged to relinquish 
 for that year, having twice attempted in vain to get beyond 
 79** 50'. On the 2lst of June, he stood to the southward, 
 to get a loading of fish, and arrived in London the last of 
 August. He was employed the following year (1611) in a 
 small bark called the Elizabeth, of 50 tuns. The instruc- 
 tions for this voyage, which may be found at lengtli in Pur- 
 chas, are excellently drav/n up : they direct him, after 
 having attended the fishery for some time, to attempt dis- 
 coveries to the North Pole as long as the season will permit ; 
 with a discretionary clause, to act in unforeseen cases as 
 shall appear to him most for the advancement of the disco- 
 very, and interest of his employers. This however proved 
 an unfortunate voyage : forhnving staid in Cross Road till 
 the 16th of June, on account of the bad weather, and great 
 quantity of ice, he sailed from thence on that day, and 
 steered WbN fourteen leagues, where he found a bank 
 of ice : he returned to Cross lload ; from whence when he 
 sailed he found the ice to lie close to the land about the lati- 
 tude of 80^, and that it was impossible to pass that way ; 
 and the strong tides making it dangerous to deal with the 
 ice, he determined to stand along it to the southward, to 
 try if he could find the sea more open that way, and so 
 get to the west^vard, and proceed on his voyage. He 
 found the ice to lie nearest SVV and SWbS and ran 
 along it about an hundred and twenty leagues. He had no 
 ground near the ice at 160, 180, or 200 fathoms : per- 
 ceiving the ice still to trend to the southward, he deter- 
 mined to return to Spitsbergen for the fishery, where he lost 
 his ship. 
 
 In the year 1614, another voyage was undertaken, in 
 which Baffin and Fotherby were employed. Wiih much 
 difficulty, and after repeated attempts in vain with the ship, 
 ihey got with their boats to the firm ice, which joined to 
 
Red-Beach ; they walked over the ice, to that phice, in 
 hopes of finding whale-fins, &c. in which they were dis- 
 appointed. Fotherby adds, in his account : " Thus, as 
 we could not find what we desired to see, so did we behold 
 that which we wished had not been there to be seen ; which 
 was great abundance of ice, that lay close to the shore, and 
 also off at sea as far as we could discern. On the eleventh 
 of August they sailed from Fair-Haven, to try if the ice 
 would let them pass to the northward, or north-eastward ; 
 they steered from Cape Barren, or Vogel Sang, NEbE 
 erght leagues, where they met with the ice, which lay 
 EbS and WbN. the fifteenth of August they saw 
 ice frozen in the sea of above the thickness of an half- 
 crown. 
 
 Fotherby was again fitted out the next year in a pinnace 
 of twenty tons, called the Richard, with ten men. In this 
 voyage he was prevented by the ice from getting farther 
 than in his last. He refers to a chart, in which he had 
 traced the ship's course on every traverse, to shew how far 
 the state of that sea was discovered between 80 and 71° of la- 
 titude,and for 26» of longitude from Hackluit's headland. He 
 concludes the account of his voyage in the following manner : 
 
 " Now if any demand my opinion concerning hope of a 
 passage to be found in those seas, I answer, that it is true, 
 that I both hoped and much desired to have passed further 
 than I did, but was hindered with ice; wherein although I 
 have not attained my desire, yei iorasmuch as it appears not 
 yet to the contrary, but that there is a spacious sea betwixt 
 Groinland and king James his new land [Spitsbertjen] al- 
 though much pestered with ice ; I will not seem to dissuade 
 this worshipful company from the yearly adventuring of 150 
 or 200 pounds at the most, till some further discovery be 
 made of the said seas and land adjacent.'* It appears that 
 the Russia company, either satisfied with his endeavours and 
 despairing of further success, or tired of the expence, never 
 employed any moreshipson this discovery. 
 
THE NORTH POLE. 7 
 
 As these voyages were fitted out by private adventurers, 
 for the double purpose of discovery and present advantaije ; 
 it may be supposed that the attention of the navigators was 
 in a measure diverted from pursuing the more remote and 
 less profitable object of the two, with all the attention thai 
 could have been wished. In justice, however, to the me- 
 mory of these men, it may be observed, that they appear to 
 have encountered dangers, which at that period must have 
 been particularly alarming from their novelty, with the 
 greatest fortitude and perseverance ; as well as to have 
 shewn a degree of diligence and skill, not only in the ordi- 
 nary and practical, but more scientific parts of their pro- 
 fession, which might have done honour to modern seamen, 
 with all their advantages of later improvements. 
 
 This great point of geography, perhaps the most impor- 
 tant in its consequences to a commercial nation and mari- 
 time power, but the only one which had never yet been the 
 object of royal attention, was suffered to remain without 
 further investigation, from the year 1615 till 1773, when the 
 Earl of Sandwich, in consequence of an application which 
 bad been made to him by the Royal Society, laid before 
 his Majesty King George the Third, a proposal for an 
 expedition to try how far navigation was practicable to- 
 wards the North Pole : which his Majesty was pleased to 
 direct should be immediately undertaken, with every en- 
 couragement that could countenance such an enterprize, 
 nnd every assistance that could contribute to its success. 
 
 Capt. Constantine John Phipps, afterwards Earl of 
 Mulgrave, had the honour of being entrusted with the con- 
 duct of this undertaking. The nature of the voyage re- 
 quiring particular care in the choice and equipment of the 
 ships, the Racehorse and Carcass bombs were fixed upoa 
 as the strongest, and therefore properest for the purpose. 
 The probability that such an expedition could not be carried 
 on without meeting with much ice, made some additional 
 sttengthening necessary : they were therefore immediately 
 
8 PARRY S VOYAGF. TO 
 
 taken into dock, and fitted in the most complete rnanner 
 for the service. The complement for tlie Raceliorse was 
 fixed at ninety men, and the ordinary establishment de- 
 parted from, by appointing an additional number of ofli- 
 eers, and entering effective men instead of the usual num- 
 ber of boys. 
 
 In giving an account of this voyage, Capt. Phipps says— • 
 " I was allowed to recommend the officers ; and was very 
 happy to find, during the course of the voyage, by the 
 great assistance I received on many occasions from their abi- 
 lities and experience, that I had not been mistaken in the 
 characters of those upon whom so nuich dej)ended in the 
 performance of this service. Two masters of Greenland- 
 men were employed as pilots for each ship. The Race- 
 horse was also furnished with the new chain-pumps made 
 by Mr. Cole according to Capt. Bentinck's improvements, 
 which were found to answer perfectly well. We also made 
 use of Dr. Irving's apparatus for distilling fresh water from 
 the sea, with the greatest success. Some small but useful 
 alterations, were made in the species of provisions usually 
 supplied in the navy ; an additional quantity of spirits was 
 allowed for each ship, to be issued at the discretion of the 
 commanders, when extraordinary fatigue or severity of the 
 weather might make it expedient. A quantity of wine was 
 also allotted for the use of the sick. Additional clothing, 
 adapted to that rigour of climate, which from the relation of 
 former navigators we were taught to expect, was ordered 
 to be put on board, to be given to the seamen when we ar- 
 rived in the high latitudes. It was foreseen that one or 
 both of the ships might be sacrificed in the prosecution of 
 this undertaking ; the boats for each ship were therefore 
 calculated in number and size, to befit, on any emergency, 
 to transport the whole crew. In short, every thing which 
 oould tend to promote the success of the undertaking, or 
 contribute to the security, health, and conveoience of the 
 ship's companies, was granted. 
 
THK NORTH POLH. ^ 
 
 On the 19th of April, 1/73, Caj>t. Phipps rocoived his 
 commission for the Racehorse, with an order to ^et her 
 fitted with the greatest dispatch for r voyage of discovery 
 towards the North Pole, and to proceed to the Note for 
 further orders. 
 
 On the 27th, he anchored at the Nore, and was joined 
 by Capt. Lutwidge, in the Carcass, on the 30th : her 
 equipment was to have been in all respects the same as 
 that of the Racehorse, but when fitted, Capt. Lutwidge 
 finding her too deep in the water to proceed to sea with 
 gafety, obtained leave of the Admiralty to put six guns 
 on shore, to reduce the complement of men, and return a 
 quantity of provisions proportionable to that reduction. On 
 the 4th of June they sailed, and on the 20th began to make 
 use of Dr. Irving^s apparatus for distilling Tresh water from 
 the sea : repeated trials £^ave us the most satisfactory proof 
 of its utility : the water j)roduced from it was perfectly free 
 from salt, and wholesome, being used lor boiling the ship's 
 provisions ; which convenience would alone he a desirable 
 object in all voyages, independent of the benefit of so use- 
 ful a resource in case of distress for water. The quantity 
 produced every day varied from accidental circumstances, 
 but was generally from thirty- four to forty gallons, without 
 any great addition of fuel. Twice indeed the quantity 
 produced was only twenty -three gallons on each distilla^ 
 tion ; this amounts to more than a quart for each man, 
 which, though not a plentiful allowance, is much more than 
 what is necessary for subsistence. In cases of real oe- 
 cessity there was no reason to doubt that a much greater 
 quantity might be produced without an inconvenient ex- 
 pence of fuel. 
 
 After many ineffectual attempts up to the first of August 
 to proceed, being In latitude 80® 31 , and longitude 18** 48, 
 the captain in his journal says, " The ice pressed in fast; 
 there was not now the smallest opening ; the two ship- 
 were within less than two lengths of each other^ separated 
 P. V. 1 
 
1-0 
 
 ARRYS VOYAGE TO 
 
 by ice, an<l neither having room to turn. The ice which 
 had been all flat the day before, and almost level with the 
 water's edge, was novv in many places forced higher than 
 the main yard, by the pieces squeezing together, and there 
 seemed to be no probability of getting the ships out again, 
 without a strong east, or north-east wind. There was not 
 the smallest appearance of open water, except a little to- 
 wards the west point of the north-east land. The seven 
 isiands and north-east land, with the frozen sea, formed 
 almost a bason, leaving but about four points opening for 
 the ice to drift out, in case of a change of wind. On the 
 Srd, the weather was very fine, clear, and calm ; we perceived 
 that the ships had been driven far to the eastward ; the ice 
 wa& much closer than before, and the passage by which we 
 had come in closed up, no open water being in sight, either 
 in that or any other quarter. The pilots having expressed 
 a wish to get if possible farther out, the ship's companies 
 ivere set to work at five in the morning, to cut a passage 
 through the ice, and warp through the small openings to 
 the westward. We found the ice very deep, having sawed 
 sometimes through pieces tweWe feet thick. This labour 
 was continued the whole day, but without any success ; 
 our utmost efforts not having moved the ships above three 
 hundred yards to the westward through the ice, at the same 
 time that tliey had been driven (together with the ice itself, 
 to which they were fast) far to the NE and eastward, by 
 the current ; which had also forced the loose ice from the 
 westward, between the island, where it became packed, and 
 as firm as the main body. 
 
 On the '5th, the probability of getting the ships out ap- 
 pearing every hour less, and the season being already far 
 advanced, some speedy resolution became necessary as to 
 the steps to be taken for the preservation of the people As 
 the situatiou of the ships preventetl us from seeing the state 
 ©f the ice to the westward, by which our futureproceedings 
 must in agfeat measure be determined, I sent Mr. Walden, 
 
THE NORTH POLE. Jl 
 
 one of the midshipmen, with two pilots, to an island about 
 twelve miles off: on his return they stated that the ice, 
 thouijh close all about us, was open to the westward round 
 the point by which we came in. They also told rae, thcjt 
 when upon the island they had the wind very fresh to the 
 eastward, though where the ships lay it had been almost 
 calm all day. This circumstance considerably lessened the 
 hopes we had hitherto entertained of the immediate effect of 
 an easterly wind in clearing the bay. We had but one al- 
 tei^native ; either patiently to wait tlie event of the weather 
 upon the ships, in hopes of getting them out, or to betake 
 ourselves to the boats. The ships had driven into shoal 
 water, having but fourteen fathoms. Should they, or the 
 ice to which they were fast, take the ground, (hey must bo in- 
 evitably lost, and probably overset. The hopes of getting 
 the ships out was not hastily to be relinquished, nor obsti- 
 nately adhered iOf till all other means of retreat were cut 
 off. Having no harbour to lodge them in, it would be im- 
 possible to winter them here, with any probability of their 
 being again serviceable; our provisions would be very short 
 for such an undertaking, were it otherwise feasible; and sup- 
 posing, what appeared impossible, that we could get to the 
 nearest rocks, and make some conveniences for winterings 
 being now in an unfrequented part, where ships never even 
 attempt to come, we should have the same difficulties to 
 encounter the next year, without the same resources ; the 
 remains of the ships company, in all probability, not in 
 health ; no provisions, and the sea not so open, this year 
 having certainly been uncommonly clear. Indeed it could 
 not have been expected that more than a very small part 
 should survive the hardships of such a winter with every 
 advantage; much less in our present situation. On the 
 other hand, the undertaking to move so large a body for so 
 considerable a distance by boats, was not without very 
 •erious ditficulties. Should we remain much longer here, 
 the bad weather must be expected to set in The stay of 
 
 O i 
 
12 parry's voy.ujk to 
 
 the Dutchmen to the Northward is very doubtful : il ih& 
 northern luu hours kept clear, they stay till the beginning 
 of September ; but when the loose ice sets in, they quit 
 them immediately. I thought it proper to send for the 
 oflicers pf both ships, and infoMned them of my intention of 
 prepairing the boats for going away I ii^imediately hoisted 
 out the boats, and took every precaution in my power to 
 make them secure and comfortable ; the ftttipg would 
 luecessarily ta^e up some days. The w^ter shoaling, an(| 
 the ships driving fast towards the rocks to the NE, I or- 
 dered canvass bread-bags to be made, in case it should be 
 necessary yery suddenly to betake ourselves to the bjo^ts : 
 I alsQ sen|t a man with a lead and line to the northward, 
 and another from the Carcass to the eastward, to sound 
 wherever they found cracks in the ice, that we might have 
 nqtice before either the ships, or the ice to which they were 
 f^st, took the ground ; as in that case, they njust instantly 
 have been crushed or overset. 
 
 *'On the 7|lh, in the morning I set out with the launch oyer 
 the ice ; she hf^pjed much easier tlian I could have ex- 
 pected ; we got her about hvo miles. I then returned with 
 the people for their dinner. Finding the ice rather more 
 open near the ships, I was encouraged to attempt moving 
 tliem. The wind being easterly, though but little of it, 
 we set the sails, and got the ships about a mile to the >vest- 
 ward. They moved indeed, but very slowly, and wer^noi 
 now by a great demise far to the westward as where they 
 were beset. Hpwever, I kept all the sail upon them, to 
 force throujjh whenever the ice slacked the least. The peo- 
 ple behaved very well in hauling the boat ; they seemed re- 
 conciled to the idea of quitting the ships, and to have the 
 fullest confidence in their officers. The boats could not 
 with the greatest diligence be gut jLo the water side before 
 the fourteenth ; if the situation of the ships did not alter by 
 that time, I should not be justified in staying longer by them, 
 la the ai<5an time, 1 resolved tp carry on both attempts to- 
 
TIIK NORril POLE. 13 
 
 petlier, moving the boats constantly but vyitbout omiUin^ 
 nil opportunity of getting the ships through. 
 
 On the 8th, at half past four, I sent two pilots with three 
 men to see the state of the \pe to the westward, that I 
 might judge af the probability of getjting the ships out. At 
 nine they returned, and reporteil the ice to be very heavy 
 and close, consisting chiefly of large fields. Between nine, 
 and ten this morning, I set out with the people, and got 
 the launch above three miles. The weather being foggy 
 and the people having worked hard, 1 thought it best to 
 retwrn on board between six and seven. The ships had in 
 the mean time moved something through the ice, and the 
 ice itself had drifted still more to the westward. At 
 night there was little wind, and a thick fog, so that I could 
 not judgeprecisely of the advantages we had gained ; i>ut I 
 still feared that, however flattering, it was not such as to 
 justify my giving up the idea of moving the bonts, the sea- 
 son advancing so fast, tlie preservation of the ships b*?ing 
 so uncertain, and the situation of the people so critical. 
 
 On the 9th, we moved the ship a jittle through some very 
 small openings. In the afternoon, upon its clearing up, we 
 were agreeably surprised to find the ships had driven much 
 more than we could have expected to the westward. We 
 worked hard all day, and got theiq something more to the 
 westward through the ice ; but notliing in comparison to 
 what the ice itself had drifted. We got past the launches; 
 I sent u number of men for them, and got them on board. 
 Between three and four in the morning the wind was west- 
 erly, and it snowed fast. The people having been much 
 fatigued, we were obliged to desist from working for a few 
 hours. The progress which the ships had made through 
 the ice was, however, a very favourable event ; the drift of 
 the ice was an advantage that might be as suddenly lost, 
 as it had been unexpectedly gained, by a change in the cur- 
 rent; we had experienced the ineflicacy of an easterly wind 
 when far in the bay, and inJtr the high land ; but having 
 
14 parry's voyage to 
 
 now^ot through so much of the ice, webes^an again to con- 
 ceive hopes that a brisk gale from that quarter would soon 
 effectually clear us. 
 
 On the 10th, the wind springing up totheNNE in th:^ 
 morning, we set all the sail we could upon the ship, and 
 forced her through a great deal of very heavy ice ; nhe 
 struck often very hard, and with one stroke broke the 
 shank of the best bower anchor About noon vve had got 
 her through all the ice, and oat to sea. I stood to the 
 NW to make the ice, and found the main body just 
 where we left it. At three in the morning, with a good 
 breeze easterly, we were standing to the westward, be- 
 tween the land ai.d the ice, both in sight ; the weather 
 hazy. 
 
 On the 11th, came to an anchor in the harbour of 
 Smeerenberg, to refresh the people after their fatigues. 
 We found here four of the Dutch ships, which we had left 
 in the Norways when we sailed from Vogel Sang, and 
 upon which I had depended for carrying the people home in 
 case we had been obliged to quit the ships. In this sound 
 there is good anchorage in thirteen fathoms, sandy bottom, 
 not far frjm the shore j it is well sheltered from all winds. 
 The island close to which we lay is called Amsterdam Is- 
 land, the westernmost point of which is Hacluyt's Head 
 Land ; here the Dutch used formerly to boil their whale-oil, 
 and the remains of some conveniences erected by them for 
 that purpose are still visible. Once they attempted to make 
 an establishment, and left some people to winter here, who 
 all perished. The Dutch ships still resort to this place for 
 the latter season of the whale fishery. The black moun- 
 tains, white snow, and beautiful colour of the ice, make a 
 romantic and uncommon picture. Large pieces frequently 
 break off from the icebergs, and fall with great noise into 
 the water ; vve observed one piece which had floated out 
 into the bay, and grounded in twenty-four fathoms ; it was 
 
THE NORTH POI.K. 15 
 
 fifty feet bigh above the surface of the water, and of the 
 same beautiful colour as the iceberg; 
 
 " We saw no springs or rivers, the water, which we 
 found in great plenty, being all produced by the melting of 
 the snow, from the mountains. During the whole time we 
 were in these latitudes, there was no thunder or lightning. 
 I must also add, that I never found what is mentioned by 
 Marten, (who is generally accurate in his observations, and 
 faithful in his accounts) of the suu at midnight resembling 
 in appearance the moon ; I saw no difference in clear 
 weather between the sun at midnight and any other time, 
 but what arose from a different degree of altitude ; the 
 brightness of the light appearing there, as well as else- 
 where, to depend upon the obliquity of his rays. The sky 
 was in general loaded with hard white clouds ; so that I do 
 not remember to have ever seen the sun and the horizon both 
 free from them even in the clearest weather. We could al- 
 ways perceive when we were approaching the ice, long be- 
 fore we saw it, by a bright appearance near the horizon, 
 which the pilots called the blink of the ice. Hudson re- 
 marked, that the sea where he met with ice was blue ; but 
 the green sea was free from it. During the time that we 
 were fast amongst the Seven Islands, we had frequent op- 
 portunities of observing the irresistible force of the large 
 Bodies of floating ice. We have often seen a piece of several 
 acres square lifted up between two much larger pieces, and 
 as it were becoming one with them ; and afterwards this 
 piece so formed acting in the same manner upon a second 
 and third ; which would probably have continued to be the 
 effect, till the whole bay had been so filled with ice that the 
 different pieces could have had no motion, had not the 
 Btream taken an unexpected turn, and set the ice out of 
 the bay 
 
 " On the 22nd, the season was so very far advanced, and 
 fogs as well as gales of wind so much to be expected, that 
 nothing more could now b«3 done, had any thing been left 
 
J$ PARRY^S VOYAGE TO 
 
 ttntried. The summer appears to ha*ve been uncommonly 
 favourable for our purpose, and afforded us the fullest oppor- 
 tunity of as<Jertaining repeatedly the situation of that wall of 
 ice, extending for more than twenty degrees between the la- 
 titudes of sixty and eighty-one^ without the smallest ap- 
 pearance of any opening. 
 
 " I should here conclude the account of thb voylage, had 
 not some observations and' experimentsr occurred oii the pas- 
 sage honre. 
 
 ** In steering to the southward we soon found the weather 
 grow more mild, or rather to our feelings warrti. August 
 24lh,^ ^^e saw Jupiter ; the sight of a Star was now become 
 almost as extraordinary a phenomenon, as the sun at mid- 
 night, when we first got within the Arctic circle. The wea- 
 ther was very fine for some part of the voyage ; on the 4th 
 of September, the water being perfectly smooth With a dead 
 calm, I repeated With success the attempt I had made to get 
 soundings in the main ocean at great depths, and str'uck 
 ground in six hundred and eighty-three fkthoms, with cir- 
 cumstances that convince me I was not nristaketl iri the' 
 depth ; the bottom was a fine soft blue clay. Fr^om Uie ttli', 
 of September, when we' were off Shetland, till the 24th, 
 when* w€ made Orfordness, we had Very h^d- gales of wind 
 with* littlb intermission, which were cbhstantly indifc'ated^; 
 several Hours before they cattle ort by the fall of the baro** 
 meter, and rise of the manometer; this proved to me the 
 utility of those itlstruments at sea. In one of these gales, 
 the hardest, I think, I ever was in, and with the greatest 
 sea, we lost three of our boats, and were obliged to heave 
 two of our guns overboard, and bear away for some time, 
 though near a lee shore, to clear the ship of water. In one 
 of these gales' on t He 12th of September, Dr. Irving tried 
 the temperature of the sea in that state of agitation, and 
 found it considerably warmer than that of the atmosphere. 
 ITiis observation is the more interesting, as it agrees with 
 a passage in PlutarchV Natural Questions' not (I believe) 
 
THE NORTH POLE. VT 
 
 before taken notice of, or confirmed by experiment, in which 
 he remarks, " that the sea becomes warmer by being as^i- 
 tated in wave*." 
 
 The frequent and very heavy gales at the latter end of the 
 year, confirmed me in the opinion, that the time of our sail- 
 ing" from England was the properest that could have been 
 thosen. These gales are as common in the Spring as in the 
 Autumn ; there is every reason to suppose therefore, that at 
 an early season we should have met with the same bad 
 weather iti going out as we did on our return. The una- 
 voidable necessity of carrying a quantity of additional 
 stores and provisions, rendered the ships so deep in the wa- 
 ter, th^t in heavy gales the boats, with many of the stores, 
 must probably have been thrown overboard ; as We etpe- 
 riended on our way home, though the ships were then much 
 lightened by the consumption of provisions, and expendi- 
 ture of stores. Such accidents in the outset must have de- 
 feated the voyage. At the time we sailed, added to the fine 
 weather, we had the further advantage of nearly reaching 
 the latitude of eighty without seeing ice, which the Green- 
 landmen generally fall in with in the latitude of seventy- 
 three or seventy-four. There was also most probability, if 
 ever navigation should be practicable to the Pole, of find- 
 ing the sea open to the northward after the solstice ; the 
 sun having then exerted the full influence of his rays, 
 though there was enough of thfe summer still remaining for 
 the purpose of exploring the seas to the northward and west- 
 ward of Spitsbergen. With these observations Capt. Phipps 
 concludes his narrative. 
 
 To seek for a passage by the North Pole was among the 
 objects committed to the exertions of that great navigator 
 Captain Cook, but their efforts led them to assert the utter 
 impossibility of effecting it. Passing over other attempts, 
 we shall proceed to a narration of the circumstances which 
 attended the efforts of Lieut. Parry in the First Voyage 
 which was committed to his superintendance. 
 P. V. 1. D 
 
18 parry's voyage to 
 
 The ©pirit and capacity manifested by him when he ac- 
 compamed Capt Ross, led the government to select him in 
 another attempt at discovery of a passage into the Pacific : 
 accordingly be was appointed to command a bomb ves- 
 sel called the Hecla, of three hundred and seventy-five 
 tons burthen, and put into commission on the 21st of Ja- 
 nuary 1810. A gun brig, named the Griper, was also ap- 
 pointed to this service and the command given to Lieut. 
 Liddon, with orders to obey Lieut. Parry's directions. 
 Both ships underwent a thorough repair, and every mode 
 was adopted to strengthen their timbers and enable them 
 to encounter the rough and tempestuous seas they were to 
 explore. The officers and crew were to receive double pay ; 
 and as most of the seamen who had sailed with Capt. Ross 
 entered themselves for the present voyage, more expert and 
 qualified seamen were not to be found. Every thing which 
 former experience could suggest, and which money and ef- 
 fort could produce, was adopted for the comfort of the crew 
 and to render the voyage successful. Upwards of one hun- 
 dred chaldrons of coals were taken in as ballast. Abun- 
 dance of warm clothing was also provided to be ased when 
 necessary, and a quantity of such articles as it was supposed 
 would be acceptable to any of the natives of the different 
 places they might visit. 
 
 That the most satisfactory assurances might be procured 
 of proper attention being paid to every arrangement, the 
 first Lord of the Admiralty and others high in office visited 
 the vessels previous to their sailing 
 
 All the preparations were completed early in the month 
 of April and the vessels now only waited for a wind to take 
 them down the river. The following is a statement of the 
 uompletement of each, with the rank they held. 
 
THE NORTH POLE. W 
 
 Names of the officers, &c. who sailed on board i\ve two 
 
 ships. 
 
 On board the Hecla. 
 
 Lieut. William Edward Parry, .... Commander 
 
 Capt. Edward Sabine, R.A Astrononjer. 
 
 Frederick William Beechey, Lieutenant. 
 
 John Edwards, Suii^eon. 
 
 Alexander Fisher, Assistant Surgeon 
 
 William Harvey Hooper Purser. 
 
 Messrs. Nias, Dealey, Palmer, I 
 
 _ , U . . J Midshipmen. 
 Ross, and Bushnan, ' 
 
 James Halse, Clerk. 
 
 James Scallon, Gunner. 
 
 Jacob Swansea, Boatswain. 
 
 William. Wallis, Carpenter. 
 
 Other officers and seamen, 43. 
 
 On hoard the Griper. 
 
 Lieut. Liddon, Coiumander. 
 
 H. P. Hoppner, Lieutenant. 
 
 Charles James Beverly, Surgeon. 
 
 Messrs. Reid, Skene, and Griffiths, Midshipmen. 
 
 Cyrus Wakehara, Clerk. 
 
 With 29 inferior officers and seamen. 
 The following instructions for his general conduct were 
 issued to Capt. Parry by the Lords of the Admiralty. 
 
 By the Commissioners for executing the Office of Lird 
 High Admiral of the United Kingdom of Great Uritain 
 and Ireland, Sfc. 8fc, 
 
 WHEREAS we have thought fit to appoint you to the 
 command of an Expedition, for the purpose of endeavouring 
 lo discover a North-West Passage from the Atlantic to the 
 Pacific Ocean ; you are hereby required and directed to put 
 to sea in the Hecla, and, in company with the Griper, 
 which, with her commander Lieutenant Liddon, has been 
 placed under your orders, make the best of your way to the 
 entrance of Davis* Strait. 
 
 D 2 
 
30 parry's voyage to 
 
 On your arrival in this Strait, your further proeecuHng^ 
 must be regulated chiefly by the position and extent of the 
 ice ; but, on findinj^ it sufficiently open to permit your ap- 
 proach to the western shores of the Strait, and your ad- 
 vance to the northward as far 48 the opening into Sir James 
 Lancaster's Sound, you are to prf)ceed in the first instance 
 to that part of the coast, and use your best endeavours to 
 explore the bottom of that Sound ; or, in the event of its 
 proving a strait opening to the westward, you are to use all 
 possible means, consistently with the safety of the two 
 ships, to pass through it, and ascertain its direction and com- 
 munications ; and if it should he found to connect itself 
 with the northern sea, you are to make the best of your way 
 to Behring's Strait. 
 
 If, however, you sliould ascertain that there is no pas- 
 sage through Sir James Lancaster's Sound, but that it isr 
 enclosed by continuous lan<l, or so completely blocked up 
 with ice as to afford no hope of a passage through it, you 
 are in that case to proceed to the northward, and in like 
 manner examine Alderman Jones's Sound. Failing to find 
 a passage through this Sound, you are to make the best of 
 your way to Sir Thomas Smith's Sound, which is described 
 by Baffin as the largest in the whole bay ; and carefully ex- 
 plore, as far as practicable, every part of it, as well as of 
 any strait you may discover, leading from it into any other 
 sea. On failing to make a passage through this Sound, 
 you are to return to the southward down Baffin's Bay, and 
 endeavour to make your way through Cumberland Strait 
 or any opening in that neighbourhood which may lead you to 
 the seas adjoining the eastern or northern coast of America ; 
 you are then, by whatever course you may have reached 
 these seas, to pursue your voyage along that coast to the 
 northward or westward to Behring's Strait. 
 
 We have hitherto supposed that, on your first arrival in 
 Davis' Strait, the navigation to the northward shall be found 
 practicable. If, however, you should find the contrary to 
 
THE NORTH POLK. 21 
 
 be the case, aiul that the sea towards the western siile of the 
 Strait is so loaded with ice, as to render it difficult and dan- 
 gerous for the ships to proceed so far to the northward as 
 Lancaster Sound, at so early a period of the season ; it may 
 be adviseable^ in that case, to endeavour in the first in* 
 stance, to examine Cumberland Strait, or any other open- 
 ing that may be likely to bring you to the eastern coast of 
 America, in preference to the loss of time and danger to the 
 ships, which might be occasionedin persevering too anxiously 
 in the attempt to get to Lancaster Sound ; and sliould you, 
 ou your first reaching Davis' Strait, find it to be impracti- 
 cable to make your way up the western side of the Strait to that 
 Sound, or even to Cumberland Strait, you will understand, 
 that you are at liberty to proceed towards those places, go- 
 ing round by a more easterly track, if the state of the ice, 
 tiuvl all other circumstances, should induce you to think it 
 most advisable to do so. Thus, although the track, which 
 we wish you to pursue, if practicable, is pointed out ; you 
 will, nevertheless, perceive, that the course to be finally 
 adopted by you for getting to the northward, is, iu fact, 
 left to your own discretion, on a careful examination into 
 the state of the iqe on your arrival in Davis* Strait ; always 
 bearing in mind, that it is an important object of the Expe- 
 dition, that Lancaster Sound be thoroughly examined by 
 you, and afterwards those of Jones and Smith, if you 
 should have failed in previously finding a passage to the 
 westward. 
 
 Should you be so successful as to find a passage to the 
 westward, it will be advisable to make the best of your way, 
 without stopping to examine any part of the northern coast 
 of America, to Behring's Strait ; and if you should fortu- 
 nately accomplish your passage through that Strait, you are 
 then to proceed to Kamtschatka (if you think you can i\o so 
 without risk of being shut up by the ice on that coast), for 
 the pur|)ose of delivering to the Russian Governor, dupli- 
 cates of all the Journals and other documents which the 
 
22 parry's voyage to 
 
 passage may have supplied, with a request that they may 
 be forwarded over-land to St. Petersburgh, to be conveyed 
 from thence to London. From Kamtschatka you will pro- 
 ceed to the Sandwich Islands, or Canton, or such other 
 place as you may think proper, to refit the ships and refresh 
 the crews ; and, if during your stay at such place, a safe op- 
 portunity should occur of sending papers to England, you 
 should send duplicates by such conveyance. And, after 
 having refitted and refreshed, you are to lose no time in 
 returning to England, by such route as you may deem most 
 convenient. 
 
 If, at any period of your voyage, but particularly after 
 you shall have doubled the north- eastern extremity of 
 America, the season shall be so far advanced as to make it 
 unsafe to navigate the ships, on account of the long nights 
 having set in, and the sea not being free from ice ; and the 
 health of your crews, the state of the ships, and all con- 
 current circumstances, should combine to induce you to 
 form the resolution of wintering in those regions, you are 
 to use your best endeavours to discover a sheltered and safe 
 harbour, where the ships may be placed in security for the 
 winter ; taking such measures for the health and comfort of 
 the people committed to your charge, as the materials with 
 which you are supplied for housing-in the ships, or hutting 
 the men on shore, may enable you to do. And, if you shall 
 find it expedient to resort to this measure, and you should 
 meet with any inhabitants, either Esquimaux or Indians, 
 near the place where you winter, you are to endeavour, by 
 every means in your power, to cultivate a friendship with 
 them, by making them presents of such articles as you may 
 be supplied with, and which may be useful or agreeable to 
 them. You will, however, take care not to suffer your- 
 self to be surprised by them, but use every precaution, and 
 be constantly on your guard against any hostility 
 
 You will endeavour to prevail on them, by such reward, 
 and to be paid in such manner, as you may think best to an* 
 
THB NORTH POLE. 23 
 
 swer the purpose, to carry to any of the settleiuents of the 
 Iludson^s Bay Company, or of the North-West Company, 
 an account of your situation and proceedings ; with an ur- 
 gent request that it may be forwarded to England with the 
 utmost possible despatch, ?' " -^ - -^ 
 
 In an undertaking of this description, much must, of 
 course, be always left to the discretion of the commanding 
 ofticer ; and, as the objects of this Expedition have been 
 fully explained to you, and you have already had some ex- 
 perience on service of this nature, we are convinced we 
 cannot do better than leave it to your judgment, when on 
 the spot, in the event of your not making a passage this 
 season, either to winter on the coast, with the view of foU 
 lowing up next season, any hopes or expectations which 
 your observations this year may lead you to entertain, or to 
 return to England, to report to us the result of such obser- 
 vations ; always recollecting our anxiety for the health, 
 comfort, and safety of yourself, your officers, and men ; and 
 further considering how far the advantage of starting next 
 season from an advanced position, may not be counter- 
 balanced by what may be sufi^ered during the winter, and 
 by the want of such refreshment and refitting, as would be 
 afforded by your return to England. 
 
 We deem it right to caution you against suff*ering the 
 two vessels placed under your orders to separate, except 
 in the event of accident or unavoidable necessity, and we 
 desire you to keep up the most unreserved communications 
 with the commander of the Griper ; placing in him every 
 proper confidence, and acquainting him with the general 
 tenor of your orders, and with your views and intentions, 
 from time to time, in the execution of them ; that the ser- 
 vice may have the full benefit of your united efforts in the 
 prosecution of such a service ; and that, in the event of un- 
 avoidable separation, or of any accident to yourself, Lieut. 
 Liddon may have the advantage of knowing up to the 
 latest practicable period, all your ideas a»d inten tiims re- 
 
S4 parry's voyage to 
 
 ladve to a satisfactory completion of this interesting under- 
 taking. 
 
 We also recommend, that as frequent an exchange take 
 place, as conveniently may be, of the observations made in 
 the two ships ; that any scientific discovery made by the one 
 be, as quickly as possible, communicated for th6 advantage 
 and guidance of the other, in making their future observa- 
 tions ; and to increase the chance of the observations of both 
 being preserved. 
 
 We have caused a great variety of valuable instruments 
 to be put on board the ships under your orders ; of which 
 you will be furnished with a list, and for the return of 
 which you will be held responsible ; and we have also, at 
 the recommendation of the President and Council of the 
 Royal Society, ordered to be received on board the Hecla, 
 Captain Sabine, of the Royal Artillery, who is represented 
 to us as a gentleman well skilled in Astronomy, Natural 
 History, and various branches of knowledge, to assist you 
 in making such observations as may tend to the improve- 
 ment of Geography and Navigation, and the advancement 
 of science in general. Among other subjects of scientific 
 inquiry, you will particularly direct your attention to the 
 variation and inclination of the mag»>etic needle, and the 
 intensity of the magnetic force ; you will endeavour to 
 ascertain how far the needle may be affected by the atmos- 
 pherical electricity, and what effect may be produced on 
 the electrometer and magnetic needle on the appearance of 
 the Aurora Borealis. Vou will keep a correct register of 
 the teniperature of the air, and of the ssea, at the surface and 
 at different depths. You will cause the dip of the ho- 
 rizon to be frequently observed by the dip sector, invented 
 by Dr. Wollaston ; and ascertain what effect may be pro- 
 duced by measuring that dip across fields of ice, as com- 
 pared with its measurement across the surface of the open 
 sea. You will also cause frequent observations to be made 
 for ascertaining the refraction, and what effect raa^ be pro. 
 
THE NORTH POftE- 3^ 
 
 dticed by obsefving an object, either celestial or terrestrial, 
 over a field of ice, as compared with objects observed over 
 a surface of water; together with sucli other meteorolo- 
 gical remarks as you may have opportunities of making. 
 You are to attend particularly to the height, direction, and 
 strength of the tides, and to the set and velocity of the cur- 
 rents ; the depth and soundings of the sea, and the nature 
 of the bottom ; for which purpose you are supplied with 
 an instrument better calculated to bring up substances than 
 the lead usually employed for this purpose. 
 
 • And you are to understand that although the finding a 
 passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific is the main 
 object of this expedition, yet, that the ascertaining the cor- 
 rect position of the different pointr. of the land on the west- 
 ern shores of Baffin's Bay, and the different observations 
 you may be enabled to make with regard to the magnetic 
 induence in that neighbourhood supposed to be so near the 
 site of one of the great magnetic poles of the earth, as well 
 as «uch other observations as you may have opportunities of 
 making in Natural History, Geography, &c. in parts of the 
 globe &c. little known, must prove most valuable and in- 
 teresting to the science of our country ; and we, therefore, 
 desire you to give your unremitting attention, and to call 
 that of all the officers under your command, to these points ; 
 as being objects likely to prove of almost equal importance 
 to the principal one before mentioned, of ascertaining whe- 
 ther there exist any passage to the northward, from the one 
 ocean to the other. 
 
 For the purpose, not only of ascertaining the set of the 
 currents in the Arctic Seas, but also of affording more fre- 
 quent chances of hearing of your progress, we desire that 
 you do, frequently after you have passed the latitude of 65 
 degrees north, and once every day, when you shall be in an 
 tiscertained current, throw overboard a bottle, closely 
 
 sealed, and containing a paper stating the date and posi- 
 tion at which it Is launched ; and you will give similar qf? 
 
20 parry's voyage to 
 
 ders to the Commander of the Griper, to be executed rn 
 case of separation ; and, for this purpose, we have caused 
 each ship to be supplied with papers, on which is printed in 
 several languages, a request, that whoever may find it should 
 take measure for transmitting it to this office. 
 
 And although you are not to be drawn aside from the 
 main object of the service on which you are employed, as 
 long as you may be enabled to make any progref,s ; yet, 
 v/henever you may be impeded by the ice, or find it neces- 
 sary to approach the coasts of the continent or islands, you 
 are to cause views of bays, harbours, headlands, &c. to be 
 carefully taken, to illustrate and explain the track of the 
 vessels, or such charts as you may be able to make ; in 
 which duty you will be assisted by Lieutenants Beechey 
 and Hoppner, whose skill in drawing is represented to be 
 so considerable, as to supersede the necessity of appointing* 
 professional draughtsmen. 
 
 You are to make use of every means in your power ta 
 collect and preserve such specimens of the animal, mineral 
 and vegetable kingdoms, as you can conveniently stow on 
 board the ships ; and of the larger animals you are to cause 
 accurate drawings to be made, to accompany and elucidate 
 the descriptions of them : in this, as well as in every other 
 part of your scientific duty, we trust that you will receive 
 material assistance from Captain Sabine. 
 
 " In the event of any irreparable accident happening to 
 either of the two ships, you are to cause the officers and 
 crew of the disabled ship to be removed into the other ; and 
 with her singly to proceed in prosecution of the voyage, or 
 return to England, according as circumstances shall appear 
 to require; understanding that the officers and crews of 
 both ships are hereby authorized and required to continue to 
 perform their <lutie9, according to their respective ranks 
 and stations, on board either ship to which they may be so 
 removed, in the event of an occurrence of this nature. 
 Should, unfortunately, your own ship be the one disabled, 
 
THE NORTH POLE. *^t 
 
 you are, in that case, to take the command of the Griper ; 
 and in the event of any fatal accident happening to yourself, 
 Lieut. Liddon is hereby authorised to take the command oi 
 the Hecla, placin<^ the officer of the expedition who may 
 then be next in seniority to him in command of the Griper ; 
 also, in the event of your own inability by sickness or other- 
 wise, at any period of this service, to continue to carry 
 these Instructions into execution, you are to transfer them 
 to the officer the next in command to you employed on the 
 Expedition, who is hereby required to execute them in the 
 best manner he can, for the attainment of the several objects 
 in view. 
 
 " His Majesty's Government having appointed Lieu- 
 tenant Franklin to the command of an expedition to ex])lore 
 the northern coast of North America, from the mouth of 
 the Copper-mine River of Ilearne, it would be desirable, 
 in the event of your touching on that coast, to leave some 
 testimonial of your having been there, with the date, and 
 such circumstances as you may find convenient, for the 
 lieutenant's information ; and you will do the same where- 
 ev^r you may stop on that coast, by erecting a pole, having 
 a flag, or some other mark, by which it may be distin- 
 guished at a distance, (and you should endeavour to place 
 such mark on the situation in which it may be most exten- 
 sively visible,) and burying a bottle at the foot of it, or 
 otli€rwise, containing an abstract of your proceedings and 
 future intentions; corresponding instructions having been 
 given to Lieutenant Franklin to leave a similar notice at 
 any convenient part of the coast which he may discover be- 
 tween the mouth of the said river and the eastern part of 
 North America. 
 
 " You are, while executing the service pointed out in 
 these Instructions, to take every opportunity that may 
 offisr of acquainting our Secretary, for our information, 
 with your progress : and on your arrival in England, you 
 are immediately to repair to this office, in order to lay be-. 
 
 E2 
 
28 parry's vovage to 
 
 fore us a full account of your proceedings in the whole 
 course of your voyage ; taking care, before you leave tl»e 
 ship, to demand from the officers, petty officers, and all 
 other persons on board, the logs and journals they may have 
 kept; together with any drawings or charts they may have 
 made; which are all to be sealed up; and you will issue 
 similar directions to Lieutenant Liddon and iiis officers, 
 &c.; the said logs, journals, or other documents, to be 
 thereafter disposed of as we may think proper to deter- 
 mine. 
 
 Given under oUr hands the 1st day of May, J819. 
 (Signed] Melville, 
 
 G. Moo-HE, 
 
 G. CoCKBURN. 
 
 By Vommavd ()f their Lor fl ah ips, 
 
 (Signed) J, W. CrroKEfe, 
 
 To Lieutenant William Kdtvard Parry, 
 Commanding His J\Jajesty's Ship tfiv 
 Hecla. 
 
 The wind continuing contrary during the renlainder 6^ 
 the month of April, the two ships were towed down to Noith- 
 fleet by steam boats, on the 4th of May, and on the 10th 
 they took their departure from the Nore. As they crossed 
 the Atlantic, a bottle was thrown overboard daily, according 
 lo the instructions which Capt. Parry received from the 
 Lords of the Admiralty, containing a printed paper stating 
 the date and situation of the ships. A request in six <liffer- 
 ent languages was added requesting any person who found 
 it to send it to the secretary of the Admiralty at London, 
 and to state the time and place at which the bottle was 
 found. 
 
 The Hecla was found to be a much superior sailor to the 
 Griper ; and she often had to take the latter Vessel in tow 
 or to lay by for her coming up. 
 
 On the 4th of June, being King George the Third's birth- 
 day, an ad<litional allowance of grog was served to eacS 
 
THE NORTH POLE. 20 
 
 mess, that they might drink their sovereign's health. On 
 the 18th they first saw the ice, and not long after noticed se- 
 veral icebergs, or large piles or mountains of ice. On the 
 24th asuccession of icebergs were observed extending several 
 miles, and the intermediate spaces were covered with ice 
 beyond where the eye could reach. 
 
 On the 25th the ships were completely surrounded with 
 ice and immovable ; and continued in this state till the 30th, 
 when after great efforts they succeeded in extricating theships, 
 but with some serious damage to the vessels. On tlie 3d of 
 July, they again fell in with a succession of icebergs 
 and the sea running high and dashing against them, had a 
 very terrific appearance. The ice was so thick that the Gri- 
 per had not power to force her way, but followed in the 
 track of the Hecla ; and oftentimes the boats were occupied 
 in towing the ships into the open sea. 
 
 Herds of sea horses were seen, which were so tame that 
 the boats came often within a few yards of them before the 
 crew fired. They also saw several bears, some of which 
 they killed ; these animals however sometimes attacked the 
 boats and put the crews into an alarm. 
 
 On the 18th of July, the ships had a most arduous duty 
 In passing through the ice, and one of the boats, in which 
 was Mr. Palmer one of the midshipmen, was uj)set. The 
 crew escaped by getting on the ice. 
 
 On the 21st having proceeded as far as the 73rd degree 
 of latitude, and perceiving no possibility of a passage from 
 the closeness of the ice, they altered their course, and the 
 ships were worked through the ice by hawsers, and from the 
 crow's nest, (an enclosement of wood at the mast head) no 
 opening could be discovered. At length on the 25th, a 
 small opening appeared, and the ships were warped through 
 the ice. Every eftbrt was now used to get the ships through 
 the ice, to Sir James Lancaster's Sourul. 
 
 On the 29th they got into the latitude of '73^ 51' and lon- 
 gitude 67® 47', and the wind blowing strong, the ice dls- 
 
30 parry's voyage to 
 
 persed, and the ships sailed upwards of sixty miles, and soon 
 entered Sir James Lancaster's Sound. They now found 
 great numbers of large whales swimming around them, and 
 were exhilarated at the knowledge that by perseverance 
 stimulated by a confidence of success, they had reached 
 their present destination a month earlier than Capt. Ross 
 had done. 
 
 On the 31st the ships stood in for Possession Bay, and 
 noticed a flag staflT which had been erected the preceding 
 year by Capt. Ross's people. Mr. Fisher the assistant sur- 
 geon, on going a few miles up the country, perceived the 
 marks of human feet, and noticed marks that the Esqui- 
 maux had at some former period visited this spot. 
 
 They now proceeded to sail up Sir James Lancaster's 
 Sound, and made considerable way. In attempting to take 
 in some ice which was to supply the want of water, one of 
 the boats was upset by the fall of a large piece of ice, as the 
 men were occupied in breaking it off. Being anxious 
 to proceed, and the Griper being a heavy sailor, Capt. 
 Parry determined to proceed without her ; and giving 
 Lieutenant Liddon directions how to proceed and appoint- 
 ing 85® west, and the middle of the sound as a place of ren- 
 dezvous, the Hecla bent her way with a press of sail to de- 
 termine the possibility of a passage this way into the Arctic 
 sea. The efforts now making arrested the attention of all on 
 board ; officers and seamen crowded the rigging, and every 
 eye was fixed in anxious expectation. The place called the 
 crow's nest, which as before observed, was an enclosed 
 place, at the mast head, from whence the appointed person 
 might keep a good look out, continually were making re- 
 ports of the situations which presented themselves to their 
 notice. The sea was free from ice, and many on board were 
 now calculating upon seeing Icy Cape. 
 
 The ships continued to make daily progress up Lancaster 
 Sound sometimes boring their way through long tracks of 
 ioe, and in foggy weather. They passed various islands* 
 
THE NORTH POLE. 81 
 
 to which Capt. Parry gave names, au(! advanced westward 
 as fast as the unfavourable winds would permit to the lat. of 
 74**, longitude lOO*. The sea before them appeared as one 
 field of ice, excepting a small channel of sufficient breadth to 
 admit the passage of the ships. 
 
 On the 28th of August they reached an island to which 
 Capt. Parry gave the name of Byaui Martin's Island, in lati- 
 tude 75** 3*, longitude 103° 44*. Capt. Sabine, Mr. Ross, 
 Mr. Edwards, and Mr. Fisher went on shore ; after which 
 a thick fog coming on, guns were continually fired as signals 
 from the ships. On returning the gentlemen stated that 
 they had seen the remains of several Esquimaux huts and 
 found the island more fertile than any land they had noticed 
 in the polar regions. Tracks of the musk ox and rein deer 
 were also visible in many places which shewed that these ani- 
 mals had lately been in these parts. 
 
 The ships continued to advance with great confidence to 
 the 29th, when they found land to the northward arresting 
 their progress ; to the southward the ice appeared as an ob- 
 struction ; the compass had long ceased to fulfil their of- 
 fice, — a thick fog enveloped them in darkness, so that the 
 ships could see each other only at intervals and then only at 
 a short distance. After some hours, the weather so far 
 cleared as to enable them to discover a track through the ice, 
 which lay ahead, and some appearance of an open sea at a 
 distance. The ships were often in the foggy weather in the 
 habit of taking each other as the point to sail by. The 
 Hecla keeping the Griper directly astern and the Griper 
 keeping the Hecla right ahead ; thus steering one ship by the 
 other. 
 
 On the 1st of September a breeze springing up and the 
 ice clearing away the ships shaped their course to the west- 
 ward. On the following day they had sight of a star, being 
 the only one they had seen for near two months, by which 
 it must be manifest what fogs they had met with. The ships 
 received now some heavy blows from the ice, although they 
 
32 parry's voyage to 
 
 ^ere from loose and broken pieces through which the ships 
 were now making their passage. Finding they couhl not 
 get to the westward, they stood in for land, and a large party 
 from both ships went on shore with a view to kill deer. 
 They had however but little success, although it appeared 
 evidently that several musk oxen and deer had been on 
 the spot, and the place was in a high state of vegetation ; 
 quantities of hair and wool being observed in different parts. 
 They found several heads of the musk ox, anr*, saw two 
 deer, but they kept at too great a tlistance from the party 
 to afford them the opportunity of killing them. The latitude 
 was 74® 58*, and their longitude 107* 3'. At this |)lace a 
 bottU was buried containing the names of the ships and 
 other particulars. 
 
 The approaches of winter now began to be manifest, the 
 main ice approaching towards the shore, and contracting 
 the space through which the ships could make their way. 
 They were now making little progess, and were impressed 
 with the great probability that they should have to pass a 
 long winter somewhere near their present station ; still how- 
 ever they took advantage of all opportunities of proceeding, 
 and at a few minutes after nine o'clock in the evening of the 
 fourth of September crossed the meridiim of 110* W from 
 Greenwich, and in the latitude of 74° 44', by which they be- 
 came entitled to a reward voted by the parliament of five 
 thousand pounds. This sum had been offered by the go- 
 vernment under the authority of an act (»f jiarliament to en- 
 courage the efforts for a discovery of a N VV passage, and 
 to commemorate the circumstance an headland on Melville 
 Island which they had just passed was called Bounty Cape. 
 
 On the following day, being Sunday the 5th, Capt. Parry 
 assembled the men on deck and gave them an official notifi' 
 cation that they were entitled to the before mentioned reward, 
 and then took occasion to urge them to use every effort to pro- 
 ceed further before the winter advanced, as then he said, he 
 doubted not ofeffecting, the ensuing summer, tiie passage they 
 
THE NORTH POLE. 3JI 
 
 were particularly sent to explore, or determine its impossibility. 
 He senia message of like purport to Lieut. Liddon, and orderecl 
 an additional allowance of meat and beer on the occasion. 
 
 The ships at this time lay in a bay to which Capt. Parry 
 gave the name of Hepla and Griper Bay, and the wind in- 
 creasing, the vessels were brought to anchor in seven fathoms 
 water, having not till now dropped anchor since the ships left 
 the coast of Noirfolk in England. 
 
 On the 6th the boats were sent to bring on board some moss 
 peat which was substituted for coals, and the wind moderating, 
 the ships made sail round a cape a short distance, but on ex- 
 ploring the sea around, it appeared manifest that no passage to 
 the westward could be effected. On the 7th a herd of ani- 
 mals, supposed to be musH oxen, were seeq feeding, and 
 two white hares were killed by some of the officers, 
 
 On the 8th the ships were towed in shore, and on the 9th 
 the iqe was so close as to preclude all ciiance of the ships be- 
 ing able to move, Two large bodies of ice called icebergs, 
 which wer« aground near the shore, formed bays, in which 
 the Hecla and Griper were secured f?"om accidents from the 
 large pieces of floating ice and other dangers. Three days 
 ^fter Mr, Dealy shot a musk ox, but the smell was unplea- 
 sant, ^nd nope seemed to relish the flesh as food. The Heclj^ 
 was moved farther in shore, which was a fortunate circum-: 
 stance, as the iceberg was driven from its situation. 
 
 On the 10th Mr, Fife and a part of the crew of the Griper 
 were sent in pursuit of rein-deer, whose footsteps they had no- 
 ticed. Night came on without any appearance of their return, 
 and considerable anxiety was felt for their safety. Early in 
 the following morning therefore, a party was sent in search of 
 them ; but a heavy fall of snow coming on, all traces of the 
 former party were- lost, and these latter persons missed their 
 road back, and it was not till after dark, and rockets were fired 
 from the ship, that they were able to get back, in a state of 
 j^reat distress and suffering, after a fruitless search for their 
 companions. Another night of distressing anxiety ws^sp^ss^d. 
 F. W.% F 
 
^i I'AKKVV VOYAGE TO 
 
 and parties were again sent on tiie look-out. Tn the mean 
 time a large mast with a flag was erected on an adjoining 
 hill, and smaller poles with directions attached to them were 
 stuck up, stating that provisions would be found under the 
 flag staff. But it was not till the 13th, after they had been 
 absent four days, that any of the party were discovered. 
 
 Mr. Fife's party consisted of himself and six men ; and 
 after they had wandered for three days they observed the flag 
 staff* at a arreat distance. Here a difference of opinion arose, 
 whether what they saw was a pole erected before they had 
 set out, at a considerable distance from the ships, or was in- 
 tended for their guidance ; and their opinions on this circum- 
 stance so diff'ered, that four of the party proceeded towards 
 the signal post, and Mr. Fife, and two of the seamen, be- 
 lieving it to be the staff" which had been erected previous to 
 their journey, took a quite diff'erent route. The four men af- 
 ter a journey of much fatigue reached the flag staff*, and par- 
 taking of the provisions and some rum placed there, they at- 
 tempted to proceed, and perceiving footsteps, fell in with 
 a party under Mr. Nias, who were in search for them. The 
 distress of the officers and men was increased, in the appre- 
 hension that Mr. Fife and the two sailors would perish. A 
 new party were just on the point of setting out, when advice 
 was brought that they were found. 
 
 Every attention was now paid to the situation of such of 
 the lost party as appeared to be in danger. Some of them 
 vere severely frostbitten, and all of them in a state of great 
 exhaustion ; but every attention being paid to their situation* 
 they all recovered in a few days. This circumstance gave 
 name to a point of land which was in consequence called Cape 
 Providence. 
 
 On the 16th the weather being clear, the ships made sail 
 to the westward, passing Cape Providence. A large piece 
 of ice, which drifted from the shore, ran so close to the 
 Hecla as to strike her violently, and lifted up her rudder. 
 The shipis continued to sail near the land on the following day. 
 
/ • THE NORTH POLE.' 35 
 
 From this time to the 21st, the ships sailed with difficulty 
 through the small opening^s which occasionally were discovered, 
 and sometimes pressed through the new ice which was gatherr 
 ing round very fast. The Griper was forced on shore by a 
 powerful body of ice. In this dilemma it appeared necessary 
 to lighten her in order to get her afloat. Fortunately the wind 
 drove the ice from the shore, and the tide rising, the vessel was 
 got afloat. The near approach of winter, and the many hin- 
 drances which daily presented themselves, now manifested the 
 necessity of seeking the most eligible situation for the ships to 
 be stationed till the ensuing summer. With this view, on the 
 22nd the ships weighed anchors, and steered towards Heclaand 
 Griper Bay, at which place they had seen the most proper situa- 
 tion to place the ships during ^he winter. The ice now accu- 
 mulated so fast, that they began to fear the ships would be frozen 
 in during the night, and that they might not reach the harbour. 
 Capt. Parry manned a boat, and accompanied by another 
 boat from the Griper, and the wind favouring them by opening 
 a passage, they landed on the west side of the harbour, and 
 made a signal for the ships to make towards it. A body of 
 fixed ice of several inches tliick had formed in the harbour, 
 and it appeared that to bring the ships into a place of security, 
 it would be necessary to cut a channel through it, for the length 
 of two miles. They made holes through the ice at different 
 places, and found the depth of this intended channel to be 
 several fathoms. On the 24th the ships were brought into a 
 proper situation for commencing the opening, and Capt. Parry 
 ordered a party to sound and mark the most proper way for the 
 channel to be cut. The opening of this passage was a work of 
 immense labour and fatigue, and on the second morning of the 
 attempt, the opening through which the ships had passed was 
 found so much frozen, that they were obliged to force the 
 pieces of ice -Wnlch were now cut to form the channel, under 
 the great body of ice ; to effect which, several of the crew stood 
 on one end of the pieces, while others with ropes raised the 
 opposite end. In accom|)Iishing this, t he men stood up to their 
 
 F 2 
 
4b PARRY'S VOYAGE T(3 
 
 knees in water. On the third day the canal was completo'y 
 cut, and the ships were warped into their proper stations, and 
 the captain named the place Winter Harbour. 
 
 Having thus placed the ships, they had now time to reflect 
 on the various difficulties which they might expect to encounter 
 in the course of the ensuing months. Secluded from all inter- 
 course with others, dark and dreary days and nights to bo 
 passed, and no means of recreation or comfort to be procured, 
 excepting what the ships* stores afforded ; much depended 
 lipon the management and forethought of the officers in com- 
 mand : to this end regiilatiotis for the maintenance of good or- 
 der and for promoting the health of the crews were issued. 
 The decks were roofed over with a wadding tilt, and every 
 mode was adopted to shelter the trew from the snow and 
 wind. They were also cleared, so as to afford room for th6 
 crews to walk when the severity of the wfeather might pre* 
 vent them from taking exercise on shore. 
 
 A house was built for the reception of the blocks ahd mft^ 
 themati'cal mstruments which had been brought out. This 
 was erected with some labour, as the ground was so frozen 
 as to be opened with difficulty. It was however at length so 
 built and lined with moss, as to sustain a warm temperaturtj 
 at the severest part of th6 winter 
 
 Attention was paid to adopt all useful regulations to pro- 
 mote the health of the crews, who at this lime, with a few ex- 
 ceptions, were in as good health and spirits as when they 
 quitted their native country. Stoves were erected, ana 
 stove pipes so placed, as to impart heat and convey the warm 
 air between the decks. Beer was brewed of the essence of 
 malt and hops, until the weather became so severe that th^ 
 Jiquot would not ferment. Donkin's pi-eserved meat, sour 
 krout, pickles, and vinegar was isstied. Lime juice and su- 
 gar, mixed with water, was supplied to the men. Attention 
 was paid to their clothing, and the men were daily mustered 
 and examined by the proper officers. The bedding also, wa^ 
 regularly examined. Th« medical officers exaimned ever^ 
 
THK NORTH POLE. 37 
 
 iiian at stated times, to observe if any appearances of an 
 unhealthy character were manifested. 
 
 To prevent a state of inactivity, Capt. Parry proposed to 
 tl»e officers to establish a course of theatrical amusements ; 
 which being readily acceded to, Lieutenant Beechey was 
 appointed to superintend the performances, and on the 5th 
 of November, the ships* crews were amused by a theatrical 
 exhibition. A Newspaper was also established and pub-» 
 lished weekly under the conduct of one of the officers, to 
 which they gave the Name of the North Georgia Gazette 
 and Winter Chronicle. These various contrivances were 
 adopted and pursued that the minds of the people might be 
 occupied and diverted during the many dark and dreary 
 months they had to remain frozen up in Winter Harbour. 
 
 Before the close of the month of October, the sea was 
 tJompletely frozen over, and presented to the eye one solid 
 and compact field of unmoveable ice. They saw several 
 rein deer, and a white bear pursued one of the crew to the 
 ships, where some of the people fired at, and wounded him, 
 bat nevertheless he made his escape. On the lOth of Octo- 
 ber, a party went in pursuit of some rein deer ; and staying 
 out until the night set in, considerable apprehension was ex- 
 cited on their behalf, and others were sent in search of tliem, 
 and rockets fired to direct them the way. One man was 
 found in that state of insensibility which excessive cold in- 
 duces ; his hands were frost bitten, and probably he would 
 liave perished, but for the assistance of those sent in pursuit 
 of them. His fingers were become stiff', and it was after- 
 wards necessary to take off three of them. Some of the gen- 
 tlemen who went on this party were so affected as to appear 
 in a state of idiotcy ; but on being taken into the cabin and 
 j)roperly attended to, they soon recovered their usual fa- 
 culties. In consequence of this circumstance, direction jiosts 
 were erected on different high parts, pointing lo the ships. 
 
 About the middle of October the snow, during a hard 
 igale of wind, drifted with such force that it was found ne- 
 
38 parry's voyage to 
 
 cessary to keep under the coverings erected, and to extend 
 a line from ship to ship, and from the ships to the shed 
 erected on the land, as the sight was interrupted by the 
 accumulation of the snow. The deer about this time accu- 
 mulated in considerable numbers, probably it being the 
 time of their departure from these regions. Parties who 
 Went out afterwards with their gun*^' to kill game, returned 
 without discovering animals of any kind. The party had now 
 about five hours of <lay-light, the remainder of the twenty 
 four were marked by its absence. A peculiar sensation at- 
 tended the touching of any metallic substance, tending to 
 produce a kind of pain as wlien a person had passed his hand 
 on heated iron. 
 
 In the beginning of November the sun took his departure 
 for the winter months ; and to excite a spirit of activity, 
 and present a means of exciting attention among the Crew, 
 the force of Miss in her Teens was performed by ditFerent 
 officers of the ships. The preparations necessary on the 
 occasion occupied a few days of their time, and tended to 
 their health and diversion ; these kind of amusements were 
 afterwards repeated. Half the month of December had 
 now passed away, and it was become exceedinj^ly dif- 
 ficult to use some of the instruments ; for if on looking 
 through the glasses any breath escaped from the mouth of 
 the party, it became converted into a coat of ice on the 
 glass. The vivid light of the Aurora Borea!i=? was now 
 constantly visiting them, and afforded most intoiesU'ng sub- 
 jects for thfcir observation. The vinegar became* frozen, 
 the lemon juice, which had been carefully packed in bottles, 
 froze, and the bottles burst. They had a few gallons of 
 concentrated vinegar, which resisted the operation of the 
 frost, at least it only assumed the consistency of lard. 
 
 One half the winter passed away and they approached 
 tlie new year, without having ex|)erienced the tedium whirh 
 such a lengthened period of darkness miglit have been cx« 
 
THE NORTH POLK. 39 
 
 pected to produce, and they felt surprised at the quickness 
 with which the time had appeared to pass by. 
 
 To keep up the spirits of the crew by occupying" their 
 time, they were divided into four watches, and a daily 
 eourse of duty required to be fulfilled ; an inspection took 
 place as to the state of their health, cleanliness, warmth of 
 cloathing, and titeir general comfort ; the sides of the ship 
 were rubbed with dry cloths, to take off any humidity that 
 might appear, and the decks and other parts were rubbed 
 with hot sand. If any appearance of ice between decks, it 
 was scraped off and carefully removed, and a pipe conveying 
 hot air was placed in a direction to remove such dampness. 
 Capt. Parry remarks that this inconvenience might to a great 
 degree have been avoided, by a sufiicient quantity of fuel to 
 keep up two good fires on the lower deck, throughout the 
 twenty-four hours ; but the slock of coals would not per- 
 mit this, considering the probability of their spending a se- 
 cond winter within the Arctic circle, and therefore was only 
 allowed on a few occasions during the most severe part of 
 the winter. When the weather permitted, they were sent 
 on shore to walk or take exercise, and on other occasions 
 they were required to run for a time round the deck, sing- 
 ing some tune or some one playing an organ. In the even- 
 ing they were left to amuse themselves as they might feel 
 inclined, and the officers spent their evening in musical 
 pursuits, or in some game of amusement. 
 
 The Sundays a<ppear to have been generally spent in much 
 of a christian spirit. A regular course of duties were gone 
 through, and the peculiar circumstances under which their 
 religious services were performed impressed no small de- 
 gree of seriousness and reverence on the occasion. On 
 Christmas Day also divine service was performed and an ad- 
 ditional allowance of grog and provisions issued to the men, 
 
 Sympk)ms of scurvy having made their appearance on 
 Mr. Scallon, the gunner of the Hecla, Capt. Parry tried to 
 raise sallads of mustard and cress in his cabin, in mould 
 
40 PAflRY'S VOVACE TO 
 
 placed along the side of the stove pipe, and he was so far 
 successful as to generally procure a small crop on the 
 sixth or seventh day. The use of these were so far suc- 
 cessful on Mr. Scallon, that in a few days he found himself 
 10 a considerable state of convalescence. 
 
 On the fifteenth of January they saw a remarkable in- 
 teresting display of the Aurora Borealis, forming a com- 
 plete arch, and varying its lights in the most wonderful 
 manner. During the whole time of their staying here, 
 though these northern lights continually appeared, nothing 
 bearing comparison with this was observed on any other oc- 
 casion. 
 
 On the 3d of February the sun was seen for the first time 
 this year, having not been visible since the 11th of November. 
 
 The weather was about this time more severely cold than 
 at any other part of the season, and frequently frost bitten 
 cases were brought under the surgeon's notice. Most of the 
 cases were in the feet, which being at so great a distance 
 from the center of circulation, were more likely to be af- 
 fected. Whenever any cases did occur, it was with great 
 slowness that a recovery proceeded, and in general it was 
 with the loss of the toe-nail, or of the skin. 
 
 It was matter of very great interest to notice, at how 
 great a distance sounds were heard. Conversation in the 
 common tone of voice might be distinctly heard at the dis- 
 tance of a mile. 
 
 The increasing length of the day, and the presence of 
 the sun, induced Capt. Parry to attempt opening the win- 
 dows below deck. The Hecla had double windows in her 
 stern, with an interval of about two feet between each win- 
 dow. It appeared that the vapour which had arisen from 
 the stoves had become frozen between the two windows, so 
 that more than a dozen baskets full of ice were removed in 
 order to admit the light. The consequence of this however 
 was, that the cabin became exceedingly cold, and it was 
 impossible to sit tliere without being warmly wrapped up. 
 
THE NORTH POLE. 4| 
 
 An accident of a most serious nature took place on the 
 24th of February. The house erected on shore for the re- 
 ception of the clocks and instruments, by some accident took 
 fire. The crew at the time were on deck taking their usual 
 exercise, so that a most ready attention was paid, and for- 
 tunately it was soon got under ; but the effort was accom- 
 panied with distressing circumstances of frost-bite to seve- 
 ral of the crew. Almost every nose and cheek, manifested 
 by their deadly whiteness, (while they were engaged in put- 
 ting out the flames) the state in which they were, and the 
 medical gentlemen, with assistants, were employed rubbing 
 the parts with snow, so that no less than sixteen men were 
 added to the sick list, in consequence of this accident, and 
 with the loss of some of their fingers. 
 
 On the 10th of March, they concluded their theatrical per- 
 formances with the Citizen, and the Mayor of Garratt. Th« 
 theatre was now dismantled, and the enclosures removed 
 to afford light to the officers cabins. 
 
 Their solicitude to proceed on the purposes of their voy. 
 age was now considerable. They had advanced to the mid- 
 die of April ; the sun was seventeen hours out of the twenty- 
 four above the horizon, yet still the cold was extremely se- 
 vere, and a cloudy sky, and a white surface, both on land 
 and sea, chilled every prospect. The health of the ships 
 companies however daily improved as the season advanced, 
 and all appeared in a convalescent state 
 
 The temperature of the air, by the end of April, became 
 so much more mild, that the thermometer stood at the freez- 
 ing point, and some of the crew seemed disposed to forego 
 the use of some of their clothing, but were prevented by 
 their superior officers. Their clothing, which had hitherto 
 been washed and dried below deck by means of the stoves^ 
 was now exposed for this purpose to the open air. Under 
 the apprehension that it might be ce«dful, the provisions were 
 reduced to two-thirds the usual allowance, which was sub- 
 mitted to by both officers and men without a murmur 
 
 P. V. 2. G 
 
42 PARRY^S VOYAGE TO 
 
 Til the middle of May, the crew proceeded to cut the ice 
 from the sides of the ship. This was a cold and tedious per- 
 formance, and occupied their attention for nine days. To- 
 wards the end of this month, they had a smart shower of rain, 
 yet except in this instance, but little appearance of a thaw 
 was manifest, and they were now approaching very near to 
 the time of the sun s longest continuance among them. Tlip 
 Commander had resolved upon an excursion to Table Hill, 
 and to make a circuit of the country. Every one offered to 
 be of the party ; but Capt. Parry thought proper to confine 
 his number to eleven persons beside himself. A small cart 
 was built to carry provisions, a cooking apparatus, and other 
 necessary articles; and every one took a kntipsack on his 
 back, and necessary clothing. An additional party went 
 with them the first day's journey ; and in good spirits, they 
 fixed their first encampment, and retired to their repose, each 
 man having a warm blanket sewed up in the form of a bag. 
 To avoid the injury which their eyes might sustain by the re- 
 flection of the sun froni the snow, it was resolved to lay up 
 for their repose in the middle of the day and to travel by 
 night, if night it might be called when the sun was above the 
 horizon the whole twenty-four hours. They continued their 
 journey over Melville Island till they came within view of 
 what appeared to them the frozen sea. To determine this, 
 Capt. Parry, accompanied by three others of the party, set 
 out to make a closer examination. On their getting nearer, 
 ihey were satisfied by the cracks in the ice of the same nature 
 as those which occurred at Winter Harbour, that these cracks 
 were occasioned by the rise and fall of the tide To determine 
 this point however more satisfactorily, they went a few hun- 
 dred yards on the ice, and attempted to make an opening 
 with a pickaxe ; but after digging about two feet into the 
 ice without obtaining an opening, they resolved to return to 
 the party, and procure more assistance. They returned 
 tlierefore to their companions, and the next morning pro- 
 ceeded with the whole party, and renewed their attempt to 
 
THE NORTH POLE. 40 
 
 chjf tlirou^li the ice. After several hours labour the peo- 
 ple at leiii^th came to water, haviiisjdug into the ice to thtt 
 depth of nearly fiftf^en feet. The water rose to ueaiiy 
 M^ithin a foot and a lialf of tiie surface, aod on tasting it 
 it was manifestly the sea water. They met with a few 
 ducks in this neighbourhood, and killed one. At this place 
 they erected a monucnent of stones, twelve feet broad at the 
 base, and placed under it a tin case containing an account 
 of the party. 
 
 Having proceeded to the northern extremity of Melville 
 Island, they continued their journey in a different direction. 
 About seven in the morning they halted, and were preparing 
 for repose, when it was discovered that a knapsack be- 
 longing to Mr. Reid had fallen oft'the cart in their journey. He 
 set out to look for it, but did not return till eleven o'clock, 
 when he appeared so severely affected by snow-blindness, 
 as to be scarcely able to see his way, so great was the glare 
 of the snow, when the sun shone most powerful upon it. 
 
 On the 11th of June, they met with so rough a road, 
 formed of large blocks of sandstone of all sizes, as occa- 
 sioned the axle-tree of the cart in which they had carried 
 their bag^gage to break. As it was now become useless, 
 they pitched their tents, made a fire of the wood, and 
 having shot a few ptarmigans, made a sumptuous meal com- 
 pared with their usual fare. Hitherto they had lived mostly 
 on preserved meats, which in general they found hard fro- 
 zen, when taken out of their canister* 
 
 It became necessary, in consequence of the breaking of 
 the cart, that the baggage should be carried on the jteople's 
 shoulders. It was accordingly distributed in regular pro- 
 portions, the weight of the oflicers knapsacks being a few 
 pounds lighter than (hose of the men. 
 
 Having proceeded in a southerly direction, for several 
 miles, over ice, they began to suspect that they were cros- 
 sing a gulph of the sea ; and Capt. Parry, desirous of satis- 
 fying himself, was proccediiig to dig through the ico. 
 
44 PARRY'g VOYAGE TO 
 
 when one of the seamen, going to a pool of water on the floe, 
 that he might drink, stated that the water was salt, 'ind 
 thus satisfied his wishes without farther trouble. After this 
 he ascended an eminence and obtained a distinct view of 
 the entrance into it, and named it Liddon's Gulpb, after 
 the name of the commanding officer of the Griper. 
 
 As the party were now drawing near Winter Harbour, 
 they resolved to enjoy a day*9 sporting. They accordingly 
 went out in parties early in the morning, and soon saw a 
 musk ox feeding in an excellent pasture, and where from 
 its appearance, many more of its kind, as well as deer, had 
 been lately feeding. On firing at him, the distance was so 
 great that the shot either missed him, or did not penetrate. 
 He set oif however at a rapid rate over the hills, and they 
 saw him no more. They found a small herd of deer, some 
 brent-geese, and ptarmigans, but did not profit much from 
 their excursion. They discovered the remains of some Es- 
 quimaux huts. The moss was spread over the floors, and 
 appeared to be the growth of three or four years. Ac they 
 drew near the ships, they were met by almost every officer 
 and seaman of the ships, who most heartily welcomed their 
 return, and expressed their peculiar joy to perceive, as they 
 said, that every one of the party appeared to look in better 
 health than when they set out on their departure just a fort- 
 night preceaing. 
 
 During the absence of the party in the preceding excur- 
 sion. Lieutenant Liddon and the officer left in command 
 of the Hecla, had been diligently occupied in making pre- 
 parations for the departure of the ships, as soon as the wea<- 
 ther should permit. A great quantity of ballast had been 
 taken into each ship, to supply the deficiences which had 
 been occasioned by the consumption of coals, during the 
 time they had been frozen into their present situation 
 A survey had been made of the various stores and provi- 
 sions, and excepting the lemon-juice and vinegar noticed 
 before, all was found to be satisfactory. Indeed almost the 
 
THK NORTH POLE. 451- 
 
 wliolc appeared to be in as excellent a stale of preservation, 
 as when taken on board at the time of their sailing from Eng- 
 land. 
 
 The snow continued to raelt very fast, and a great 
 change was manifest in the ice ; it being covered with re- 
 servoirs or basons of water, as the thaw proceeded. 
 
 Flocks of ducks and geese, as well as deer and other 
 birds, and animals, now continually made their appearance; 
 and Capt. Parry being desirous to procure as large a sup- 
 ply as possible for both ships, from which these creatures 
 kept at a considerable distance, directed a party from each 
 ship to go out to the distance of several miles, and to re- 
 main there for a few days in order that they might have the 
 better opportunity of success. Accordingly they set out, 
 headed by Lieutenants Beechy and Hoppner, taking tents, 
 blankets, fuel, and the regular allowance of provisions to 
 each man. By this means they obtained a seasonable sup- 
 ply of provisions, and the change of diet was highly gratify- 
 ing to every man on board after having lived on such provi- 
 sions as the ship afforded for so many months. 
 
 The face of the country also presented a general state of 
 vegetation. Sorrel was gathered in considerable quantities, 
 some of the men being regularly sent out to pick it. The 
 leaves were served out to the messes both of officers and 
 men, and eaten as sallads or boiled as greens, or made into 
 puddings. So abundantly were the ships thus supj)lied, that 
 their beneficial effects were quickly manifested in the healthy 
 appearance of the crews. 
 
 On the 27th of June a seaman named William Scott, and 
 who had been on the sick list for about two months, died. 
 The first symptoms were fever and an inflammation of the 
 lungs. Strong symptoms of scurvy were afterwards ma- 
 nifest, and a treatment consistent with the various ap- 
 pearances which presented themselves was pursued by the 
 medical ofticer. A stale of stupor afterwards followed, 
 which was sjucceeded bv delirium. After a time this ex- 
 
46 parry's voyack to 
 
 citement subsided ; but a relapse shortly followed which 
 carried him off. At the request of the suri^eoij, Captaiu 
 Parry suffered the body to be opened ; but it appeared af- 
 terwards that the great obstacle to his recovery, and which 
 could not but counteract all systematic efforts, was an un- 
 fortun ate propensity to liquor, which he gratified by illicit 
 bartering with others of the crew. This event, in a voyage 
 undertaken and pursued under circumstances so different 
 from all former voyages, in what had been considered an 
 uninhabitable climate during the winter months, exposed to 
 such a variety of circumstances tending to cause disease 
 and death, can be considered only as remarkable, that it 
 should stand alone, and be the only instance of the fatal 
 power of disease among the crew. On the following Sun- 
 day, after divine service had been performed, the body of 
 the deceased was deposited in a grave made for its recep- 
 tion a short distance from the beach. The ensigns and 
 pendants were lowered half mast during the procession to 
 the grave, which consisted of the whole crew, both officers 
 and men. The whole was solemn and impressive, and con- 
 ducted uith great decorum. A tomb stone was placed at 
 the head of the grave, with an inscription stating the cir- 
 cumstance. 
 
 ]n the beginning of July an herd of deer being observed, 
 a party were dispatched in pursuit of them ; but the open- 
 ness of the country, giving the people no opportunity of 
 approaching them unperceived, the whole of them escaped. 
 The thaw was now become very rapid. Currents of water 
 were pouring down the hills from the melting of the snow. 
 Pools of water were every where forming on the ice from the 
 thaw. Much rain also fell, which increased the number and 
 depths of tlie holes in the ice, which now approached to 
 that state of rottenness as to make it dangerous to walk 
 across the pools. Boats were able to pass by means of 
 these pools from ship to ship and also from the ships to the 
 land. All the preparations necessary for tlieir drparfure 
 
THE NORTH POLE. 47 
 
 were now completed. The thermcimeter now generally 
 stood at from 55 to60**andthemost pleasant sensations were 
 excited in all at the comfortable alteration of the tempera- 
 ture of the weather. The enjoyments of a pleasant walk, 
 a plentiful supply of good living from the hunting parties, 
 and the abundance of sorrel supplied now for every meal, 
 presented such a scene of enjoyment as was most cheering 
 so far as regarded all their temporal comfort ; but the 
 month of July was so far advanced, that they began to be 
 apprehensive there would be no time for active operations 
 ns to the main object of their enterprise, as winter would 
 be soon again setting in, for the great body of ice had not 
 yet broken up so as to make sea room for the ships. 
 
 About the 20th, during a strong breeze, the ice round the 
 ships separated so as to leave them completely free ; no 
 appearance however presented itself of any disruption or 
 opening of the ice out at sea, so as to afford a prospect of 
 their escaping from their present situation. Some few 
 hummocks of ice were pressed up round the beach, and the 
 moving of these bodies as the wind or tide varied, put the 
 ships sometimes into considerable peril. A large portion 
 of the ice was detached on the 30th from the main body so 
 as to leave a greater extent of clear water round the ships 
 and the whole body of ice in the harbour appeared to be 
 moving, but the mouth of the harbour remained as yet one 
 body of ice. During the nights the cold now was manifest 
 and the pools of water which were on the ice became 
 on tliese occasions slightly frozen over. The following day 
 ihe wind blowing fresh, and every appearance, by the driving 
 ul the ice, indicating that they would find an opening, Capt. 
 Parry directed every thing that remained on shore to be 
 embarked and prepared for sailing. On the first of August 
 tlie ships weiglied, and the ice moving, they sailed out of 
 Winter Harbour, after having been frozen in upwards of 
 ten months, having passed part of the September of the 
 
48 PARRV'S VOYAGE TO 
 
 year 1819 and quitting it in the month of August iti thi» 
 year 1820. 
 
 As the season of the year was so far advanced, they 
 could not but feel anxious to make the best use of the little 
 summer which remained for the purpose of pursuing further 
 discoveries. The heavy masses of ice which every where 
 presented themselves and the small appearances of open sea 
 were very discouraging ; but Capt. Parry resolved to use 
 every effort in pushing to the westward. It required every 
 exertion and the most quick judgment and decision to 
 avoid being crushed by the large floes and hummocks of 
 ice which were passing or repassing as the wind or tide 
 changed. The Griper on different days was lifted two feet 
 out of the water. 
 
 Capt. Parry took repeated observations on the high land, 
 as he sailed to the westward round Melville Island, but 
 could discover no clear way for the ships to move. The 
 Jlecla was often obliged to unship her rudder and to use 
 prompt eflbrts to avoid the masses of ice, and was notwith- 
 standing nipped or severely pressed in more than one in- 
 stance. The Griper was twisted so as to make her crack 
 a great deal. So truly alarming were the circumstances, that 
 Lieutenant Liddon landed all the journals and documents 
 of importance, and made every arrangement for saving the 
 stores and provisions, as he now began to be apprehen- 
 sive of shij)wreck. Capt. Parry at this time aUo felt almost 
 equally apprehensive for the fate of the Hecla« as slie was 
 so closely surrounded by loose ice, that a slight pressure of 
 so weighty a body towards the shore would have produced 
 most distressing consequences. In the night, the ice gave 
 the Hecla a heel of eighteen inches towards the shore, but 
 it did not appear to do her any material injury. They were 
 at length relieved from farther apprehensions at this time 
 by the ice gradually receding from the shore, in consequence 
 of a fresh breeze springing up. 
 
 On the 16th, it being a fine day, Capt. Parry with some 
 
THE NORTH POLE. 49 
 
 of the officers mnaed, and made an excursion to the west- 
 ward, along the hiijh part of the land next the sea, with a 
 vie to ascertain the possibility of finding a passage that 
 way. They found a channel of open water between the 
 land and the ice, extending as far as a headland, to which 
 they gave the name of Gape Dundas ; but beyond this, to 
 the westward, all appeared one solid body of ice. Cap- 
 tain Parry, therefore, determined to attempt no longer 
 sailing in this direction, but to make trial of a more south- 
 ern latitude, in which he flattered himself his efforts would 
 be attended with success. Cape Dundas, which was the 
 most westernmost point of the Polar Sea, which they made, 
 is in latitude 74° 2', and in longitude US' 57*. The length 
 of Melville Island, which for so many months had been the 
 scene of their residence, was about one hundred and thirty- 
 five miles, and its breadth from forty to fifty miles. 
 
 On the return of the party to the ships, they made sail to 
 the eastward. A vigilant watch was directed to be made 
 for any opening vvliich might present itself. After sailing 
 a few miles, the Hecla was secured for the night in a kind 
 of harbour formed by large masses of ice, which, while it 
 afforded the best security to be obtained, was not a little 
 terrific in its appearance, as on the opposite side masses of 
 ice were accumulated which leaned so much towards the 
 ship, as to give the idea that they might fail upon it. 
 The Griper was made fast near the beach, in a more open 
 situation, and her rudder unshipped, in case she should be 
 assailed by the ice. In efforts to proceed, amidst all the 
 difficulties which these frozen seas presented, the succeed- 
 ing days were spent. The large floes of ice which were 
 sailing about, often drew more water than the ships, and 
 they received some severe shocks from them. The new 
 ice which formed every night, the situation in which the 
 ships were placed, the shortness of the remaining part of 
 the season, and the extent of their resources in provisions 
 and necessary articles, required now the most serious con- 
 
 P. V. 3. li 
 
50 parry's voyage to 
 
 Bideration, in reference to the accomplisliment of the pur- 
 poses of the voyage, and the health and safety of the 
 people. In a fortnight they would arrive at that period 
 when it was considered no efforts to navigate the Polar Sea 
 was practicable. — The distance to Icy Cape was eight or 
 uine hundred miles, and all their efforts this season had not 
 taken them the distance of one hundred miles in the de- 
 sired direction. Indeed, they had experienced such a 
 series of difficulties and delays, and the ships had been in 
 sucb repeated states of danger, that Captain Parry consi- 
 dered himself, under all circumstances, no longer justified 
 in his attempt to proceed in discovery 
 
 The ships were still in good condition — the health of the 
 whole crew was as good, or nearly so, as when they quitted 
 England ^ — but the loss of the lemon juice, which was con- 
 sidered as so powerful an antiscorbutic ; the inconvenience 
 of crowding so many persons within the narrow limits 
 which the ships afforded, which prevented the keeping the 
 ships in a dry and healthy state; these, with other reasons, 
 induced Captain Parry to submit a specific question to the 
 officers, calling upon them to take into consideration all 
 the circumstances, and after well reflecting on the whole, 
 to give him their opinion, as to the propriety of pursuing; 
 further the specific object of their voyage. 
 
 After due consideration, the officers gave in their opinion 
 to Captain Parry, in which they unanimously agreed with 
 him as to the futility of any further attempts at exploring the 
 sea to the westward; and agreeing in opinion also with himi 
 that it would be better to run to the eastward, and endea- 
 vour to find an opening which might lead towards the 
 American continent ; and that after a reasonable time fail- 
 ing to find such passage, it would be more expedrent to 
 return to England, than to risk the passing another winter 
 in these seas, from whence it did not appear that they 
 would derive any peculiar advantage, as to starting early at 
 the commencement of the ensuing season 
 
TIIF NORTH VOLE. 61 
 
 On the 27th of August they passed the east end of IMel- 
 ville Island. The navit^able channel now increased as 
 they sailed io the eastward, so that it became not less than 
 ten miles wide. A constant look-out was had from the 
 crow's-nest for an opening to the southward, but without 
 any success. During a thick fog they kept the ships as 
 close to the ice as possible, that they might not miss any 
 opening to the southward. In the evening of this day they 
 were near to the same spot as they had been on the same 
 day of the preceding year ; and to add to the peculiarity of 
 the circumstance, were reduced to the same necessity of 
 steering the ships by each other, the Griper keeping the 
 Hecla ahead, and the Hecla keeping the Griper directly 
 astern, having no better means of knowing in what direc- 
 tion the ships were sailing. 
 
 The ships having traced the ice, with a view to discover 
 an opening to the southward, from the longitude of 114* to 
 that of 90*, without effect. Captain Parry felt it to be his 
 duty to return to England. In consequence of this reso- 
 lution, by which there was no necessity to make such a 
 reserve of provisions or fuel, as would have been the case, 
 bad they proceeded in an attempt at further discovery, 
 ihey were put upon full allowance of food, and such an 
 issue of coals as might contribute to their comfort. For 
 near eleven months they had been on an allowance of two- 
 thirds of bread and other provisions, and only a partial 
 supply of coals ; and this during a severity of weather that 
 ])articularly needed every comfort, both of nourishment 
 and warmth ; an order to the effect above alluded to, could 
 not therefore but be received with the most heart-cheering 
 satisfaction. 
 
 On the 30th of August, having a westerly breeze, the 
 ships advanced through the strait, with a view to run out 
 of Lancaster Sound, it being the determination of Captain 
 Parry, in his return, to make a general survey of the 
 western coast of Baffin's Bay, conceiving that it might be 
 
 b2 
 
^ pARR^^'s voyage to 
 
 an important advantage to Whalers on this statwn. It 
 might also be possible to find some outlet into the Polar 
 Sea in a lower latitude than that of Sir James Lancaster's 
 Sound, a circumstance which would be of infinite im- 
 portance in any further attempts at the discovery of the 
 north-west passage. 
 
 On the 3d of September, being in latitude 71° 24', they 
 passed some of the highest icebergs they had ever seen, 
 one of them being nearly two hundred feet above the sea. 
 Landing on the beach at a place named Pond's Bay, they 
 found several ponds of water, and Mr. Hoppner saw two 
 large flocks of geese. They met also with the tracks of 
 deer, bears, wolves, and foxes. Upon the beach they 
 found part of the bone of a whale, which had been cut at 
 one end ; they also found a quantity of chips lying about it, 
 by which it was manifest that these parts had been visited 
 recently by some of the Esquimaux ; indeed. Captain 
 Parry surmised that some of these people were resident in 
 the vicinity, but his time did not admit of his seeking to 
 find them. The latitude was.71® 15'. 
 
 On the 4th of September they were most agreeably sur- 
 prised with seeing, from the mast head, a ship, and soon 
 afterwards two others. They soon perceived that they 
 were whalers ; but they lost sight of them during the en- 
 suing night. — They came in sight of these and other whalers 
 again on the 5th, and learned from Mr. Williamson, tiie 
 master of the ship Lee, of Hull, of the death of King 
 George the Third, and also of the Duke of Kent. — Mr. 
 Williamson also told them he had met with some Esqui- 
 maux in the inlet called the river Clyde, when he was in 
 these seas in the year 1818 ; and Captain Parry being de- 
 sirous to have some communication with them, and also to 
 examine the inlet more minutely, made up a packet of dis- 
 patches and letters, and sent on board the Lee, and then 
 made sail for the inlet, and made for that part where they 
 were directed to look for the Esquimaux huts. Night came 
 

 5\ 
 
 ^ 
 
THE NORTH POLE. 53 
 
 on, however, before they could discover them, and the 
 weather the next day being very thick with snow, did not 
 permit their standing in for the land. Here they found 
 themselves near an immense iceberg, which they recognised 
 to be the same, from its shape and dimensions, as they 
 had met with in September 1818, and measured upwards 
 of two miles in length. It was aground in the very same 
 spot as when then noticed. 
 
 In the evening, being near one of the islands situated 
 in this inlet, they saw some canoes paddling towards the 
 ships. They came along side with the greatest confi- 
 dence, and made signs to have their canoes taken on 
 board, and then came up the ships side without manifesting 
 any apprehension. — The party consisted of four persons, 
 an old man of about sixty, and three young men. They 
 manifested their astonishment and delight by much noise, 
 and a variety of gestures. If a present was made to 
 either of them, or any thing they saw excited particular 
 attention, their satisfaction was expressed by a bawling 
 noise, until they became almost hoarse^ and at the same 
 time jumping and dancing till their strength was nearly 
 exhausted. 
 
 They were afterwards taken below deck, although at 
 first some of the younger ones seemed reluctant to descend; 
 but the old man leading the way, the others then followed, 
 with the utmost readiness. Lieutenant Beechey being de- 
 sirous of taking a likeness of the old man, he was requested 
 to seat himself in a position for that purpose ; and notwith- 
 standing a variety of circumstances tending to arrest his 
 attention, and to excite emotion, he remained in his posi- 
 tion for an hour. They bartered their clothes, spears, 
 and whalebone, with our people, for knives, and other arti- 
 cles, and appeared to act with honesty in these exchanges, 
 exercising a seeming reflection, as to whether the articles 
 were equivalent in value to those sought to be purchased 
 from them. There appeared to be a becoming diffidence in 
 
54 1»ARRY*S VOYAGE TO 
 
 the younger persons, these modestly keeping behind, and 
 by that means at first missing some presents, which tliose 
 who stood more forward received. As the evening closed, 
 they were desirous of returning on shore. One of the 
 party having bartered his canoe with Captain Parry, he 
 was sent on shore in one of the boats, because their canoes 
 were calculated to hold only one person in each. Mr. 
 Palmer, who went with the boat to the shore, stated that, 
 if disposed, their canoes could outrun the boat. These 
 Ksquimaux appeared very ready in imitating sounds, and 
 took great delight in using any words which they noticed 
 as expressed by our people. 
 
 Mr. Bell, a part owner of the ship Friendship, of Hull, 
 went on board the Hecla this evening, offering any assist- 
 ance he could render them. From this interview they ob- 
 tained a statement of a number of interesting events which 
 had taken place in Europe in the course of the seventeen 
 months which they had been absent from their native 
 country. 
 
 On the 7th a breeze springing up, they made sail further 
 tip the inlet. The weather was cloudy, but there being an 
 eclipse of the sun. Captain Parry and Captain Sabine 
 landed on an island near, in order to make observations. 
 By the time however that they were prepared with their 
 glasses the eclipse was at an end. However soon after they 
 landed two of the Esquimaux, the old man and one of his 
 young companions, paddled over to them from the main land. 
 They had with them some seal-skins, dresses and whale- 
 bone ; but in trading they were cautious to produce only 
 one article at a time, leaving the remainder in their canoes 
 till they had disposed of the one they brought. Thus they 
 continued to proceed in a fair and honest system of barter 
 until the whole stock of articles they had brought with them 
 was expended. While Captains Parry and Sabine were 
 engaged on shore, a boat landed from the Griper with 
 Lieutenant Uoppner and a party. Desirous of taking a 
 
THE NORTH POLE. 55 
 
 likeness of the young man, l^ieutenant Hoppner with some 
 difficulty and by means of presents, prevailed on him to be 
 seated for that purpose. The incUnation so predominant 
 In the youth to jump and dance about was not easily re- 
 birained, though in the whole of his conduct the utmost 
 g-ood nature was manifest. Indeed after he was liberated 
 from the necessity of this confined position, he shewed his 
 good will by taking the seamens knive» and sharpening 
 them on any smooth stone he met with, returning to each 
 individual his own knife. 
 
 On shewing them a looking glass, the younger one jumped 
 about in raptures for a considerable time. But the attention 
 of the old man having been previously attracted to the 
 opening of one of the tin canisters with preserved meat for 
 dinner, by driving an axe with a mallet in order to split it 
 open, after one look at the glass, his attention became re- 
 fixed to the operation of opening the canister ; and when 
 this had been effected, solicited to be put in possession of 
 the mallet which had effected so useful an end in his esti- 
 mation. 
 
 Great caution was requisite in getting into their canoes 
 to keep them from turning over. The young man launched 
 the canoe of his aged companion, and kept it steady while 
 the old man took his seat, and then with much caution got 
 into his own and they both paddled from the shore, accom- 
 panying the boats, which had quitted the island and were 
 making for a point of land where some Exquimaux families 
 had fixed their tents. No sooner did the party come with- 
 in sight of the tents, than all were in motion. Men, wo- 
 men and children all ran out to meet them with expressions 
 of joy, at seeing them. Some of the women had their in- 
 fants tied to their backs, much after the same manner in 
 which gypsies carry their infants in Eni»;land. 
 
 A trade in barter soon commenced between the different 
 parties, and knives, axes, brass kettles, needles, and other 
 useful articles, were exchanged with them. Presents were 
 
5S PARRY'S VOYAGE TO 
 
 seemed rather as a toy to please their children, than capable 
 of being employed to any useful purpose. 
 
 Captain Parry saw but one sledge, which appeared to be 
 composed of the right and left jawbones of a young whale, 
 being about ten feet long, and about nineteen inches apart, 
 connected by parallel pieces made of the ribs of the whale, and 
 secured by whalebones so as to form the bottom of the sledge. 
 The lower part was shod with bone to meet the friction which 
 must rise on its motion. The whole was very rudely made. 
 
 These people had a great numher of dogs, which ap- 
 peared very wild and shy, and the natives had some difficulty 
 in catching them, and of keeping them under controul when 
 caught. They appeared most ravenous creatures, devouring 
 their food with the greatest greediness, swallowing the fea- 
 thers and every part of any bird which might be thrown to 
 them. One of these d(^s, which was purcjhaied by Captain 
 Parry, although regularly fed when brought on board, eat 
 with the greatest avidity a large piece of canvass, a cotton 
 handkerchief, and part of a check shirt. Indeed it was un- 
 derstood that they will so gorge their food as often to occa- 
 sion their death. 
 
 Their mode of cooking their food appeared to be most fil- 
 thy. A large mess of sea-horse flesh, not cleaned from the 
 blood, was put into a stone vessel and suspended over a 
 lamp. The meat in itself did not look so forbidding ; but 
 the filthy manner in which it was cooked rendered it most 
 disgusting. 
 
 Their knives were made of the tusks of the walrus, cut or 
 ground sufficiently for the purpose, having the original 
 curve, so as to resemble the swords which children have as 
 toys in England. From the few tools which were among 
 them, to accomplish this must have been a work of great la- 
 bour and patience. 
 
 A drawing of the musk- ex was shewn to them in order to 
 ascertain if they had any knowledge of this animal. The 
 smallness of the figure not corresponding with the originaJ 
 
THE KORTII POLE. 59 
 
 size, they did not appear readily to understand it, but when 
 the real head and horns were shewn to them, they nlanifested 
 their knowledge of the creature, calling it oomingmack. 
 
 Mr. Fisher, in sounding part of Observation Island, met 
 with the winter huts of these people, which consisted of ex- 
 cavations in a bank about two miles distant from their tents. 
 Great store of provisions in sea-horses and seals were also 
 found concealed under stones along the shore, so that it 
 should seem that there was no lack of the means of subsis- 
 tence among them. 
 
 The whole of these Esquimaux looked healthy, and were 
 free from disease. It is pleasing also to record that in no 
 instance did any of them manifest a disposition to disho- 
 nesty. In this feature of their character, they would put to 
 shame thousands of the more enlightened and (as such would 
 call themselves) the more civilized inhabitants of our own 
 country. 
 
 On taking leave of this party, they watched the boat for 
 a few hundred yards and then quietly returned to their tents. 
 
 On the 9th of September, the ships came in view of a 
 spacious bay, the width of the entrance of which was not 
 Jess than fifteen leagues. They found, on examining it, a 
 considerable number of islands, and perceived land nearly 
 round the whole of the Bay. Captain Parry however hav- 
 ing resolved to seek for a passage in a lower latitude, did 
 not examine it with that close attention to enable him to de- 
 termine the fact, and he suggests the probability of some 
 outlet being found from this bay into the Polar Sea. Un- 
 der this determination he crossed to the southern shore, and 
 took advantage of a breeze which sprung up to proceed. 
 They found the ships however so much beset with ice, 
 that the Hecla was soon stopped altogether. On the 12th 
 of September they were in latitude 68^ 15', and longitude 
 G5^ 48'. In the night the Aurora Borealis were remarkably 
 striking and picturesque ; the various streaks of light pas»- 
 
 I 2 
 
m 
 
 ing with the greatest rapidity from one part of the heavens to 
 the other. 
 
 The ships continued using every effort to discover a pas- 
 sage in a more southern latitude until the 26th, being often 
 so beset with ice as to make their sailing exceedingly dan- 
 gerous. At length Captain Parry came to the conclusion 
 that the season was too far advanced to expect any useful 
 results from any further efforts, and determined to make 
 the best of their way for England. The boats were therefore 
 hoisted in, and preparations made for their return home- 
 In taking a review of the efforts which had been made in 
 this voyage to discover a NW passage, accompanied with 
 observations on the efforts of others. Captain Parry suggests 
 the propriety of trying a lower latitude, along the shore of 
 Hudson's Strait, which he says has as yet been but little 
 explored. 
 
 That commerce has derived great advantage from these 
 efforts he asserts ; for that the whalers, since the year 1818, 
 have proceeded to occupy stations on the coast of Baffin's 
 Bay, where fish have been found in much greater abundance 
 than on the coast of Greenland. 
 
 Speaking of the conduct of the persons engaged in the 
 whale fishery^ Captain Parry says, " Nothing can exceed the 
 bold and enterprising spirit displayed by our fishermen in 
 the capture of the whale. At whatever time of night or 
 day, a whale is announced by the look-out man in the crow's 
 nest, the men instantly jump into the boats, frequently with 
 their clothes in their hands, and with an alacrity scarcely 
 equalled even in the most highly disciplined fleet, push on 
 in pursuit of the whale, regardless of cold, and wet, and 
 hunger, for hours, and sometimes for days together. Nor 
 is it solely on occasions where their immediate interest is 
 concerned, that this activity is displayed by them. It hap- 
 pened, on the voyage of 1818, that in endeavouring to pass 
 between the land and a body of ice, which was rapidly clos- 
 ing the shore, the Alexander, then under mv command. 
 
THK NOHTH POLF. 6! 
 
 touclicd tlie groimd just at the critical moment when it was 
 necessary to push ihrou h the narrow and nucertain pas- 
 sage. It heing nearly calm, the boats were sent a-head to 
 tow, but the little way which they could give the ship, was 
 not sufficient to have rescued us in time from approaching 
 danger, and nothing less than the wreck of the ship was 
 every moment to be -expected. Several siiil (;f whalers were 
 following astern ; but seeing the dangerous situation In 
 which the Alexander was placed, and the impossibility of 
 getting through themselves, they instantly put about into 
 the clear water which we had just left, and before we had 
 time to ask for assistance, no less than fourteen boats, many 
 ©f them with the masters of the ships themselves attending 
 in them, placed themselves promptly a-head of the Alexan- 
 der, and by dint of the great<?st exertion towed her off into 
 clear water, at the rate of three or four miles an hour, nai 
 one minute too soon to prevent the catastrophe we had anti- 
 cipated." 
 
 Captain Parry continues his observations on the eligibi- 
 lity of Baffin's Bay as a point where the whale fishery may 
 be pursued with j;reat success, and suggests the proper 
 time in his view for commencing the fishery season. On 
 passing Cape Farewell, they met with a heavy gale of wind 
 on the first and second of October. On the latter day a 
 heavy sea struck the Hecla on the larboard quarter, which 
 rendered it necessary to press her forward under more can- 
 vass. By this circumstance she lost sight of the Griper, and 
 did not meet with her again till they arrived in England. 
 They had in their passage across the Atlantic, the most 
 vivid appearances of the Aurora Boiealis exhibiting a bright- 
 ness equal to that of the moon. 
 
 On the 16th, the sea running high and the ship pitching 
 violently, the bowsprit was carried away, and the foremast 
 and maintopmast very quickly followed. The main mast at 
 one time appeared in great danger ; but by the activity 
 of the officers and men it was saved. Thoy got up jury- 
 
62 parry's vovage. 
 
 masts with all possible dispatch, and proceeded on their way. 
 Captain Parry had appointed Lieutenant Liddon in case of 
 separation, to meet at Lerwick in the Shetland Islands, 
 and to remain a week for his arrival, but on the 28th, the 
 wind being fresh from the northward, he resolved to pro- 
 ceed to Leith. On the 30th, Captain Parry landed at Pe- 
 terhead, and accompanied by Captain Sabine set out for 
 London, where they arrived on the morning of the third of 
 November 1820. 
 
 Such were the excellent methods pursued in this voyage, 
 with reference to the health and comfort of the whole crew,- 
 that the Captain had the happiness of seeing every oflicer 
 and man of both ships, consisting of ninety-four persons, 
 with the exception of one only, return to their native country 
 as well in health as on quitting England eighteen months 
 preceding. 
 
 In concluding the history of this voyage, it cannot but be 
 remarked, that the perseverance and steadiness of purpose 
 manifested by Captain Parry, are deserving the highest 
 praise, and that all that human effort could accomplish was 
 effected by him. His second Voyage presents a variety 
 of new incidents, which will be highly gratifying to every 
 reader. 
 

 
 ^ i 
 
 
( 68 ) 
 
 THE 
 
 SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 OP 
 
 CAPTAIN PARRY. 
 
 The information wbich was obtained by the first voyage, 
 under the direction of Captain Parry, to discover a NW 
 passage through the Arctic Sea into the Pacific, afibrded 
 Buch reasons to scientific and informed men that there cer- 
 tainly was a way open in some direction, favourable to its ul- 
 timate success, as induced the government, in the succeed- 
 ing ycar^ to fit out a new expedition for the very same pur- 
 pose. The Hecla having been found so well fitted for the 
 purpose, was again put into commission ; and the Fury, a 
 vessel of the same description and size of the Hecla, was 
 also appointed to this service. Captain Parry was appointed 
 to the command of the Expedition, and received his com- 
 mission for his Majesty's ship Fury, of three hundred and 
 seventy- seven tons burthen, on the thirtieth of December 
 1 82('. The Hecla was re-commissioned by Captain George 
 Francis Lyon, on the fourth of January following. 
 
 The officers who had accompanied Captain Parry m his 
 former expedition, who were desirous of entering on this 
 service, had the preference given to them, and such of the 
 crews as went on the former voyage, were preferred, so far 
 as they were considered fit for the service. The Reverend 
 George Fisher was appointed astronomer, at the recom- 
 
64 parry's SEOaNtJ: VOYAGE 
 
 mendalion of the President and Council of the Royal Soci- 
 ety, and who also was to act as chaplain to the expedition. 
 
 The ships were strengthened by every meuns which 
 could be devised, to enable them to sustain the rough seas 
 they were expected to encounter. The ships being of equal 
 size, the foremasts and main masts, as well as other timbers 
 of each ship, were exactly the same in size, so as to readily 
 fit either vessel in case repairs should be required or any 
 accident take place. It had on former occasions been the 
 usual custom to fit out one of the vessels of lesser burthen, 
 that she might be able to go into shoaler water in circum- 
 stances of necessity ; but Captain Parry remarks that all such 
 purposes are much better answered by boats, which can bo 
 equipped and dispatched on such emergencies in a few mi- 
 nutes, so that he gives a decided preference to the mode 
 adopted on the present occasion. The voyage now about to 
 be described gave evidence of the great utility of this regu- 
 lation in the article of anchors ; indeed it increased their re- 
 sources in this respect by the possibility of every article be- 
 ing rendered useful. 
 
 A thick lining of cork was applied round the ships sides 
 and on the under part of the upper decks, fore and aft. 
 Shutters of cork were also made for every window or other 
 place, so as to surround those parts of the ships which 
 were occupied by the people and to retain the warmth ex- 
 cited by the fires. A method was also adopted to convey 
 a current of warm air into the several apartments by means of 
 flues. 
 
 A vessel or reservoir was also contrived, so that the smoke 
 which arose from the galley-fire, and which was principally 
 used for cooking, should so pass round the vessel as to melt 
 the snow which might be thrown into it from the upper 
 deck, and thus supply a quantity of water for the use of the 
 ship. It was found fully to answer all the needful consump- 
 tion. 
 
 Hammocks were also placed for the men/ and cots for 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 65 
 
 the officers, so as to afford a free circulation of warm air. 
 Every thing relative to victualling the ships, which the ex- 
 perience of the former voyage suggested might be im- 
 proved, was also adopted. Preserved meat in tin cases to 
 the amount of two pounds a week, and a quart of vegeta- 
 ble or concentrated-meat soup per man for a period of 
 three years. The spirits were at thirty-five per cent, above 
 proof. A quantity of kiln-dried flour of the best quality* 
 was laid in, to be baked inlo bread. A great part of the 
 fore hold was formed into biuns or bread-rooms. The vine- 
 gar was concentrated to one-seventh of the usual bulk. 
 The lemon-juice was stowed in kegs charred within, and 
 not quite filled, and of strength to resist expansion in case 
 of freezing, and a small quantity of rum filled into each 
 keg. A large quantity of other vegetables were also pro- 
 vided, so as to form an abundant supply for three years con- 
 sumption. 
 
 To assist them to carry such an abundant supply of 
 stores, the Nautilus transport was directed by the Commis- 
 sioners of the Navy Board, to take parf of their lading 
 as far as the margin of the ice ; some extra stores were also 
 put into the transport, among which were twenty live bul- 
 locks. 
 
 The following official instructions were issued by th© 
 Lords of the Admiralty to Captain Parry. 
 
 By the Commissioners for executing the Office of Lord 
 High Admiral of the United Kingdom of Great Britain 
 and Ireland, ^c. 5fc. 
 
 Lord Viscount Melville having communicated to the 
 King the proceedings of the late Expedition into the Arc- 
 tic Seas, and His Majesty having been gn*aciously pleased 
 to express his commands that a further Expedition should 
 be fitted out, for the purpose of renewing the attempt to 
 discover a passage by sea between the Atlantic and Pacific 
 Oceans, and of ascertaining the geography of the North- 
 
 P. V. 3 K 
 
66 iaruy's second voyage 
 
 ern boundaries of the American Continent, we have thought 
 proper to appoint you to the command of the Expedition ; 
 and you are hereby required and directed to put to sea in 
 His Majesty^s ship Fury under your command, together 
 with His Majesty's ship Hecia, whose commander has 
 been placed under your orders, and taking also with you 
 the Nautilus Transport, which we have directed the Navy 
 Board to place at your disposal, (for the purpose of carry- 
 ing a proportion of your provisions and stores across the 
 Atlantic and Davis' Strait.) you are to proceed as quickly 
 as may be consistent with every precaution to avoid any 
 risk of your parting company from either the one ship or 
 the other, towards, or into, Hudson's Strait, until you 
 shall meet with the ice, when you are to take the first fa- 
 vourable opportunity of clearing the Nautilus Transport of 
 the provisions and stores she is charged with for the Fury 
 and Hecla ; and having so done, you are to send the said 
 transport back to England, so as ta prevent her incurring 
 any risk of receiving injury amongst the ice, reporting by 
 tliat opportunity your proceedings to our Secretary for our 
 information. 
 
 After having so cleared and dispatched the Transport, 
 you are, with the two ships of His Majesty under your or- 
 ders, to penetrate to the westward through Hudson's 
 Strait, until you reach, either in Repulse Bay or on other 
 part of the shores of Hudson's Bay, or to the north of Wager 
 River, some part of the coast which you may feel convinced 
 to be a portion of the Continent of America. You are then 
 to keep along the line of this coast to the northward, always 
 examining every bend or inlet which may appear to you 
 likely to afford a practicable passage to the westward, in 
 which direction it is the principal object of your voyage to 
 endeavour to find your way from the Atlantic into the Pa- 
 cific Ocean. 
 
 Iti the event of your having consumed the open weather 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 67 
 
 ill the examination of the northern boundaries of Hudsoo'g 
 or Cumberland Straits, and of your having, at the close 
 of the season, returned into Davis' Strait or Baffin a 
 Bay, or if you should have made no considerable progress 
 to the westward or northward in any inlet you may have 
 found, it will be for you to consider, under all the circum- 
 stances of the case, whether it may not be expedient that 
 you should return to England to replenish, refit, and re- 
 fresh, rather than winter on a part of the coast which you 
 might reach again next season as early as would be neces- 
 sary for prosecuting your further inquiries^ The judgment 
 which you have shewn in the conduct of the late Expedi- 
 tion, and the experience which you have acquired, induce 
 us tQ trust this point to your own discretion, on a view of all 
 the different circumstances which may exist at the time when 
 your determination is to be formed. 
 
 Should you be so successful as to find a practicable pas- 
 sage from the one sea to the other, you are to make the best 
 of your way in accomplishing that object, without stopping 
 to examine the north coast of America, or for any other 
 object not of imperious importance ; but when the ships are 
 checked in their progress by ice, or other unavoidable cir- 
 cumstances, you will take every opportunity of examining 
 the coasts you may be near, and making all useful observa- 
 tiv>ns relating thereto. 
 
 Should you happily reach the Pacific, you are to proceed 
 to Kamschatka, (if you think you can do so without risk of 
 being shut up by the ice on that coast,) for the purpose of 
 delivering to the Russian governor duplicates of the journals 
 and other documents which the passage may have supplied, 
 with a request that they may be forwarded over land to St. 
 Petersburgh, to be conveyed from thence to London. 
 
 From Kamschatka you will proceed to the Sandwich 
 Islands, or Canton, or such other place as you may think 
 proper, to refit the ships and refresh the crews ; and if 
 during your stay at such place a safe opportunity should 
 
 K 2 
 
68 parry's SfiCOND VOYAGE 
 
 occur of sending papers to England, you should »end dupli- 
 cates by such conveyance. And after having refitted and re- 
 freshed, you are to lose no time in returning to England by 
 such route as you may deem most convenient. 
 
 It may happen that your progress along the north coast 
 of the American Continent may be so slow as to render it 
 desirable that, if you should not be able to accomplish your 
 passage into the Pacific earlier than the Autumn of 1824, 
 you should be assured of finding a depot of provisions at 
 that period in the most advanced situation to which they 
 can safely be conveyed. In the event then of our not re- 
 ceiving from you such intelligence as may render the mea- 
 sure unnecessary, we shall, about the close of the year 1823, 
 direct the Commander-in-chief on the South American 
 station to dispatch a vessel with a supply of provisions and 
 stores, so as to be at Behring's Strait about August or Sep- 
 tember, 1824. The commander of this vessel will be di- 
 rected to make the best of his way round Cape Prince of 
 Wales, where he may expect, as we are informed, to find 
 an inlet in latitude 68° 30 , in which Captain Kotzebue is 
 stated to have found anchorage a few years since. He will 
 be directed to lie in that anchorage, or in the nearest good 
 anchorage he may find to that latitude ; and he will be or- 
 dered to erect, in the most prominent and visible situation, 
 a flagstaff" for your direction. As it is possible that you may 
 touch at the Sandwich Islands, this Officer will be directed 
 to call at Owhyhee, in order that if you should have passed to 
 the southward, he may not be put to the inconvenience of 
 going on to Cape Prince of Wales. 
 
 Whenever the season shall be so far advanced as to make 
 it unsafe to navigate the ships, on account of the long 
 nights having set in, and the sea being impassable, on ac- 
 count of ice, you are, if you should not return to England, 
 to use your best endeavours to discover a sheltered and safe 
 harbour, where the ships may be placed in security for the 
 
TO THK NORTH POLH. 69 
 
 (winter, taking such measures for the health ami comfort of 
 the people under your command, as the materials with which 
 you are supplied for housing in the ships, or hutting the men 
 on shore, may enable you to do. And when you find it ex- 
 pedient to resort to this measure, if you should meet with 
 any inhabitants, Whether Esquimaux or Indians, near the 
 place where you winter, you are to endeavour, by every means 
 in your power, to cultivate a friendship with them, by mak- 
 ing them presents of such articles as you may be supplied 
 with, and which may be useful or agreeable to them. You 
 will, however, take care not to suffer yourself to be surprised 
 by them, but use every precaution, and be constantly on 
 ^our guard against any hostility. 
 
 You will endeavour to prevail on them by such reward, 
 and to be paid in such manner as you may think best to an- 
 swer the purpose, to carry to any of the Settlements of the 
 Hudson's Bay or North-West Companies, an account of 
 your situation and proceedings, with an urgent request that 
 it may be forwarded to England with the utmost possible 
 dispatch. 
 
 We deem it right to caution you against suffering the 
 two vessels placed under your orders to separate, except 
 in the event of accident or unavoidable necessity ; and we 
 desire you to keep up the most unreserved communications 
 with the Commander of the Hecla, placing in him every 
 proper confidence, and acquainting him with the general tenor 
 of your orders, and with your views and intentions, from 
 time to time, in the execution of them ; that the service may 
 have the full benefit of your uuited efforts in the prosecution 
 of such a service, and that, in the event of unavoidable sepa- 
 ration, or of any^ accident to yourself. Captain Lyon may 
 have the advantage of knowing, up to the latest practicable 
 period, all your ideas and intentions relative to a satisfac- 
 tory completion of the undertaking. 
 
 We also recommend that as frequent an exchange take 
 place as conveniently may be, of the observations made in 
 
70 parry's second voyage 
 
 the two ships ; that any scientific discovery made by the one> 
 be as quickly as possible communicated lor the adYantae;e 
 and guidance of the other, in making their future observa- 
 tions> and to increase the chance of the observations of both 
 being preserved. 
 
 We have caused a great variety of valuable instruments 
 to be put on board the ships under your orders, of which 
 you will be furnished with a list, and for the return of 
 which you will be held responsible; and we have also, 
 at the recommendation of the President and Council of the 
 Hoyal Society, ordered to be received on board the Fury 
 the Rev. Mr. Fisher, who is represented to us as a gentle- 
 in m well skilled in Astronomy, Mathematics, and various 
 branches of knowledge, to assist you in making such ob- 
 servations as may tend to the improvement of Geography 
 and Navigation, and the advancement of science in 
 general. 
 
 Amongst other subjects of scientific inquiry, you will 
 particularly direct your attention to the variation and in- 
 clination of the magnetic needle, and the intensity of the 
 magnetic force ; you will endeavour to ascertain how far 
 the needle may be afi^ected by the atmospherical electricity, 
 and what effect may be produced on the electrometic and 
 magnetic needles on the appearance of the Aurora Borealis. 
 You will keep a correct register of the temperature of the 
 air, and of the sea at the surface, and at different depths. 
 You will cause frequent observations to be made for ascer- 
 taining the refraction, and what effect may be produced by 
 observing an object, either celestial or terrestrial, over a 
 field of ice, as compared with objects observed over a sur- 
 face of water ; together with such other meteorological 
 remarks as you may have opportunities of making. You 
 are also t'o attend particularly to the height^ direction, and 
 strength, of the tides, and to the set and velocity of the 
 currents; the depth and soundings of the sea, and the na- 
 ture of the bottom, for which purpose you are supplied with 
 
TO THE NORTH POLK. 
 
 7i 
 
 an instrument better calculated to bring up substances than 
 the lead usually employed for this purpose. 
 
 And you are to understand, that although the finding a 
 passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific is the main object 
 of this expedition, and that the ascertaining the Northern 
 boundary of the American Continent b the next, yet that 
 the diff'erent observations you may be enabled to make, with 
 regard to the magnetic inffuence, as well as such other ob- 
 servations as you may have opportunities of mniiing in Na- 
 tural History, Geography, &c. in parts of the globe so little 
 known, must prove most valuable and interesting to science; 
 and we therefore desire you to give your unremitting atten- 
 tion, and to call that of all the officers under your command, 
 to these points, as being objects of the highest importance. 
 And you are to direct Mr. Fisher to be particularly careful 
 to keep an accurate register of all the observations that shall 
 be made, precisely in the same forms, and according to the 
 lame arrangements, that were followed by Captain Sabine 
 on the late voyage ; — into whose charge are also to be given 
 the several chronometers with which you have been sup- 
 plied. 
 
 And although, as already specified, you are not to be 
 drawn aside from the main object of the service on which 
 you are employed, as long as you may be enabled to make 
 any progress, yet, whenever you may be impeded by the 
 ice, or find it necessary to approach the coasts of the con- 
 tinent or islands, you are to cause views of bays, harbours, 
 headlands, &c. to be carefully taken, the better to illus- 
 trate the charts you may make, and the places you may 
 discover, on which duty you will be more particularly 
 assisted by Captain Lyon and Mr, Bushnan, Assistant Sur- 
 veyor 
 
 You are to make use of all the means in your power to 
 collect and preserve such specimens of the Animal, Mine- 
 ral, and Vegetable Kingdoms, as you can conveniectly 
 stow on board the ships ; salting in casks the skius of the 
 
72 I'arry's second voyage 
 
 larger animals, as well as causing accurate drawings to be 
 made to accompany and elucidate the descriptions of them ; 
 in this, as well as in every other part of your scientific 
 duty, we trust that you will receive material assistance 
 from Mr. Fisher, and the other Officers under your com- 
 mand* 
 
 In the event of any irreparable accident happening to 
 cither of the two ships, you are to cause the Officers and 
 Crew of the disabled ship to be removed into the other, 
 and with her singly to proceed in prosecution of the voy- 
 age, or return to England, according as circumstances 
 shall appear to require; understanding that the Officers 
 and Crews of both ships are hereby authorized and re- 
 quired to continue to perform their duties according 
 to their respective ranks and stations, on board either 
 ship to which they may be so removed, in the event 
 of an occurrence of this nature. Should unfortunately 
 your own ship be the one disabled, you are in that case to 
 take the command of the Hccla ; and in the event of any 
 fatal accident happening to yourself. Captain Lyon is 
 hereby authorised to take the command of the Expedition, 
 either on board the Fury or Hecla, as he may prefer, placing 
 the officer who may then be next in seniority to him, in com- 
 mand of the second ship; also in the event of your inability, 
 by sickness or otherwise, to continue to carry these Instruc- 
 tions into execution, you are to transfer them to Captain Lyon, 
 or to the surviving officer then next in command to you, em- 
 ployed on the expedition, who is hereby required to execute 
 them in the best manner he can for the attainment of the se- 
 veral objects in view. 
 
 His Majesty's Government having appointed Captain 
 Franklin to the command of an Expedition to explore the 
 northern coast of North America, from the mouth of the 
 Coppermine River of Hearne, eastward, it would be desir- 
 able, if you should reach that coast, that you should mark 
 your progress by erecting a flagstaff in a few of the most 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 73 
 
 convenient and distinguishable points vvbich you may sue- 
 cessively visit, and you are to bury at the foot of each staff 
 a bottle, containing such information as may be useful to 
 Captain Franklin, and such further particulars respecting 
 your own proceedings as you may think proper to add ; cor- 
 responding instructions having been given to Captain 
 Franklin to leave a similar notice at any conveni«Mit part of 
 the coast which he may discover between the mouth of the 
 said river and the eastern part of North America. And in 
 the event of your getting to the westward of Hearne's river, 
 you should'Oceasionally do the same with a view to multiply 
 the chances of our hearing of your progress. In the event 
 of your finding Captain Franklin and his party on any part 
 of the coast of America, (wiiich being possible, you should 
 look out for and attend to any signals that may be displayed on 
 the shores,) you are, if he should wish it, to receive him 
 and his party into His Majesty's ships ur»der your command, 
 bearing them as supernumeraries for victuals until you re- 
 turn, or you have other means of forwarding them to Eng- 
 land. 
 
 You are, whilst executing the service pointed out in theae 
 instructions, to take every opportunity that may olFcr of ac- 
 quainting our Secretary, for our information, with your 
 progress: and on your arrival in England, you are imme- 
 diately to repair to ibis office, in order to lay before us a 
 full account of your proceedings in the whole course of your 
 voyage ; taking care, before you leave the ship, to demand 
 from the Officers, Petty Oificers, and all other persons on 
 board, the logs and journals they may have kept, together 
 with any drawings or charts they may have made, vvhicli 
 are all to be sealed up ; and you will issue similar orders 
 to Captain Lyon and his officers, &c. ; the said logs, jour- 
 nals, or other documents to be thereafter disposed of as we 
 may think proper* 
 
 P. V. 4. L 
 
74 parry's second voyack 
 
 Given under our hands this 27th of April, 1821. 
 
 (Signed) G. Cockburn, 
 
 H. HOTHAM, 
 
 G. Clerk. 
 JBy Command of their Lordships^ 
 
 (Signed) J. W. Croker. 
 
 To William Edward Parry, Esq., Com- 
 mander of His Majesty's Vessel the 
 Fury, at Deptford. 
 
 Names of the officers, &c. who sailed on board the two 
 
 ships. ♦ 
 
 On hoard the Fury. 
 William Edward Parry, .... Commander. 
 
 George Fisher, Chaplain and Astronomer. 
 
 Joseph Nias, Andrew Reid, Lieutenants. 
 
 John Edwards, Surgeon. 
 
 William Harvey Hooper, .... Purser. 
 
 James Skeoch, Assistant Surgeon. 
 
 Messrs. Henderson, Crozier, ") 
 
 Ross, and Bushnan, S Midshipmen. 
 
 James Halse, Clerk. 
 
 James Scallon, Gunner. 
 
 William Smith, Boatswain. 
 
 George Fiddis, Carpenter. 
 
 John Allison, Greenland Master. 
 
 George Crawford, Greenland Mate. 
 
 With 43 inferior officers and seamen. 
 
 On hoard the Hecla. 
 George Francis Lyon, Commander. 
 
 I Lii 
 
 Alexander Fisher, Surgeon. 
 
 John Jermain, Purser. 
 
 Allan McLaren, Assistant Surgeon. 
 
 Henry Parkyns Hoppner, 
 
 Charles Palmer, ^ Lieutenants. 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 75 
 
 Messrs. Sherer, Richards, 7 
 
 Griffiths, and Bird, .... 1 Midshipmen. 
 
 W. MogiT, Clerk. 
 
 Joseph Maeklifi, Gunner. 
 
 Joseph Lilley, Boatswain* 
 
 Charles Parfer, Carpenter. 
 
 George Fife, Greenland Master. 
 
 Alexander Elder, Greenland Mate. 
 
 With i2 other officers and seamen. 
 
 The two ships, with the Nautilua transport laden with 
 provisions, left the Noreon the 8th of May, and on the J 4th 
 of June encountered the first ice-berg in the entrance of 
 Davis's Strait; and having here cleared the Nautilus of her 
 provisions, and dispatched her homewards, they made sail 
 to the westward, and proceeded up Hudson's Strait with as 
 much speed as contrary winds, tides, currents, and floes of ice 
 always in motion, would permit; the last of which usually, 
 perhaps invariably, hamper all ships that attempt to pass 
 through them previous to the month of August ; so much 
 more difficult is the navigation of this strait, than tliat of 
 Davis or Baffin's Bay, which are open and navigable, with 
 little or no risk, as early as the month of May. 
 
 On the first of July they passed a whaler apparently 
 homeward bound and deeply laden. On the 1 4th they 
 saw three ships belonging to the Hudson's Bay factories, 
 carrying settlers for the Red River. The wind blowing a 
 gale, the ice suddenly closed, and nearly carried theHecla's 
 bowsprit away. The Fury also received a severe pressure, 
 making her timbers crack, but being so strongly built and 
 fortified for this service, the injury she sustained was not 
 material. Captain Parry on the succeeding day sent to re- 
 quest a visit from the master of one of the ships in sight. 
 Accordingly Mr. Davidson, the master of the Prince of 
 Wales, went on board the Fury. He said that they had on 
 board one hundred and sixty settlers for the Red River. 
 
 L 2 
 
16 parry's second voyage 
 
 They consisted of males and females of difierent ag-es. Be- 
 fore parting they sent letters on board for England, to their 
 different friends, and also dispatches to the Government, 
 with particulars of their passage hitherto. 
 
 They continued to proceed slowly to the westward until 
 the 21st, when in latitude 61° 50' they fell in with several 
 islands ; and the wind changing, they anchored to an ice- 
 berg. They had not been long in this situation, before they 
 observed a number of canoes putting off from the shore and 
 making towards the ships. On approaching the ships, they 
 hauled their canoes up on the ice, and without delay or ti- 
 midity manifested a desire to trade. The commodities they 
 brought with them consisted of the skins of seals, bears, 
 foxes, deer, &c. whalebone, spears, and blubber. It was 
 soon manifest that they had been accustomed to trade in 
 this way, and that they were for procuring the best articles 
 in their estimation for the commodities they had to dispose 
 of. Knives, nails and pieces of iron were offered them in 
 return, and the raanoevures of the keenest trader were ma- 
 nifested by them in driving their bargains ; and when they 
 had, in their own judgment, obtained a valuable return, 
 they manifested their satisfaction by jumping about and other 
 uncouth modes. As had been observed of the Esquimaux 
 in the River Clyde on the former voyage, they always licked 
 tvith their tongues whatever articles they obtained, and 
 then they appeared to consider the contract as binding. 
 This p«rty of Esquimaux consisted of seventeen persons ; 
 and they were quickly followed by another party consisting 
 of several women and four men with skins, oil and blubber. 
 These latter were so extremely tenacious of obtaining a high 
 price from the people of the Fury, that only a part was pur- 
 chased by them, and the Esquimaux thinking to drive a bet- 
 ter bargain, quitted this ship and rowed to the Hecla, where 
 however ihey ultimately sold their oil at a lower price than 
 had been offerctl them by the other ship. Several other 
 boats afterwards came from the shore, each bout containing 
 
TO THE NORTH POTK. 77 
 
 from fourtfien to about twice that number of persons, a great 
 part being females ; so that not less than an hundred or more 
 of the natives paid them a visit in the course of the day. 
 
 These people were extremely disposed to pilfer, and to 
 possess whatever they could lay their hands on. Their as- 
 surance and want of shame when detected in such attempts 
 was not less than the bold and daring manner in which they 
 made their efforts. 
 
 Tlieir noanner of feeding was most disgusting and filthy. 
 They licked the oil which remained attached to the skins 
 the ships crew had just emptied, and eat the raw blubber, 
 the appearance and smell of which were extremely disgusting 
 This disgust however excited the mirth of the Esquimaux ; 
 and they would follow the people, with a piece of blubber 
 or raw meat dripping with oil and filth, inviting them to eat. 
 Two of the women expressed a strong desire to sell their 
 children, which it was supposed they would have parted 
 with for articles of small value. On the 22nd, the wind be- 
 coming favourable, the ships made sail up the strait to the 
 westward, and they began to make considerable progress. 
 
 They continued sailing till the 31st, passing several is- 
 lands. They saw also a number of seals and a sea-horse, also 
 some fish were noticed as jum])ing out of the water, which 
 were supposed to be salmon. The latitude was 64° 1', and 
 longitude 75® 48'. They saw a number of islands sprinkled 
 along the coast; and at a distance to the south-west, had a 
 sight of Salisbury Island. Jn the afternoon they perceived 
 an oomiak or large boat of the Esquimaux, making sail to- 
 wards them, together with several canoes. The ships lay 
 to for them to come near. The boat contained sixteen per- 
 sons, almost the whole of them women and children, and 
 having traded with them for a short time, the ships proceeded 
 on their way. The next day they passed Nottingham Is- 
 land, and were visited by other Esquimaux in canoes and 
 one oomiak. They exchanged a few articles with them for 
 some skin dresses, some tusks of the walrus, and some oil. 
 
78 parry's skcond voyage 
 
 These people brought also a variety of toys, as spears, bows 
 and arrow:?, a canoe with paddles, all of a diminutive size. 
 Many of their jackets, particularly those of the women, 
 were lined with the skins of birds, having their feathsers in- 
 ward. 
 
 The ships made considerable way durino^ the night, but 
 in the following morning they found themselves so beset 
 with ice as to prevent their progress, and the ships re- 
 ceived many violent blows from the moving masses. Their 
 latitude was now 64° 59' and their longitude 79° 40 ; and 
 being arrived at that point from whence the new discoveries 
 were to commence, it became a matter of most serious ques- 
 tion in what rout to direct the further progress of the ships ; 
 and after much consideration Captain Parry resolved to 
 direct his attention to the examination of the continenta? 
 coast from Cape Hope northwards. Having thus far de- 
 termined, another consideration presented itself; whether 
 to make the circuitous rout round the south- end of South- 
 ampton Island, or attempt a direct passage through ihe 
 Frozen Strait. The one route would require them to Gail 
 the distance of one liundred and seventy leagues before they 
 reached the point where their operations were to commence, 
 while the passage through the Frozen Strait would not ex- 
 ceed fifty leagues ; a matter of no small moment in sailing 
 through these icy seas. He came to the determination of 
 attempting the passage of the Frozen Strait ; not, he says, 
 without considerable anxiety lest the non-existence of the 
 Strait, or the insuperable obstacle of its frozen state, should 
 add to the loss of time which now could so ill be spared. 
 
 Having come to this determination, the ships had to wait 
 till some change in the state of the ice became favourable to 
 their progress, until the middle of the day. On the 4th of 
 August the prospect was most unpromising: when almost 
 on a sudden, the sea became navigable by the ice separating 
 in a most extraordinary manner, evidencing the peculiari- 
 ties attached to the navigation of these seas, shewing the 
 
TO THE NORTH VOLE. 79 
 
 possibility of making progress at one period, which at another 
 may become impenetrable. The ice now disappeared in the 
 most rapid manner, and making sail to the westward, the 
 ship soon made Southampton Island. After a run of about 
 forty miles the ships were again obstructed by the ice, being 
 in latitude 65® 22' and in longitude 81° 24'. Some of the 
 floes or bodies of ice by which they were now beset, measured 
 half a mile each way. 
 
 They continued to force their way as opportunities offered 
 of penetrating through the ice, and by experience discovered 
 that their progress to the westward was best effected when 
 the wind directly opposed them ; for a westerly wind always 
 conveyed away large bodies of ice from that quarter, and 
 left a large space of open water, through which, if they at- 
 tended to the moment of the gale ceasing, tbey were able to 
 make considerable progress. 
 
 On the 13th the ships approached the entrance of the 
 Strait, but the ice was too close to admit of their making 
 much way, although they used every endeavour to warp the 
 ships through. A strong breeze to the westward two days 
 after drove them a few miles back, but this was compensated 
 by its clearing away the ice, and enabling the Fury to gel 
 forward : the Hecla however was so beset, and driven to the 
 eastward as to lose sight of the Fury. Captain Parry, ac- 
 companied by Mr. Ross, left the ship to make observations, 
 and landed on Southampton Island. Carrying the boat 
 above high water mark, and making a tent of the sail of the 
 boat, they passed the night on shore. They perceived 
 traces of its having at some former period been occupied by 
 Esquimaux. 
 
 On the 22nd they found they had entirely passed through 
 the Frozen Strait, and were unexpectedly in Repulse Bay. 
 Boats from the Fury and the Hecla were dispatched to land. 
 They found the remains of at least sixty habitations of the 
 Esquimaux, but saw no inhabitants. A variety of artijficisl 
 structures of these people and piles of stones^ which it was 
 
W parrS 
 
 S SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 supposed were set up as land marks to guide them when the 
 ground was covered with snow, were also noticed. Lieu- 
 tenant Palmer was dispatched with a boat to examine dif- 
 ferent parts of the bay, agreeable to the directions of the 
 Lords of the Admiralty ; and it clearly appeared from tho 
 report he made, that there was no passage out of the bay 
 to the westward, but that it was surrounded. by a continuity 
 of land. 
 
 It now remained for the expedition to proceed along the 
 coast to the northward, and examine any inlet which 
 might present a prospect of a passage to the westward' 
 After clearing Repulse Bay, they sailed along the northern 
 shore of the Frozen Strait. Having approached on the 
 twenty-third to the mouth of an opening, which presented 
 a favourable prospect of a passage, but which a body of ice 
 filling up the channel rendered it impossible for the ships or 
 boats to enter, Captain Lyon, accompanied by Mr. Bush- 
 nan and two seamen from each ship, was dispatched to land 
 and examine it more particularly. They took a tent, blan- 
 kets and four days provisions. Captain Parry cast anchor 
 to wait his return ; but the loose and heavy ice at the mouth 
 of the inlet came with great force, and gave the Fury some 
 violent shocks, causing the anchor to drag, and ultimately 
 broke off both the flukes, and polished the iron stock quite 
 bright by rubbing against the rocks. 
 
 On the 25th Captain Lyon returned with his party, and 
 stated that the inlet appeared to be bounded by land at 
 about seven miles distance. In the course of his journey he 
 passed the remains of many Esquimaux habitations, but 
 which did not appear to have been recently occupied. At 
 another place they met with a variety of store rooms of 
 these people, (as they supposed them to be.) They also 
 passed a kind of paved walk, being an assemblage of flat 
 stones, set up edgeways, each about three yards apart, ex- 
 tending to the length of about five hundred yards. The wea- 
 ther during almost the whole of the time which Captain 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 81 
 
 Lyun was absent, was rainy, or snowed, or was fogjjy, so 
 as to prevent his obtaining a satisfactory view of the coun- 
 try, but his coDcIusion was the probability of the existence 
 of a passage to the NE. 
 
 Captain Lyon remained on board the Fury during the 
 night, and arranged with Captain Parry the plan of their 
 future operations. They concluded that there certainly was 
 a communication between the Frozen Strait and a sea to the 
 northward and eastward of it, and it was determined to use 
 every effort to discover it. From the narrowness of the 
 channel, the strength of the tides, and weight of the ice, 
 there presented so many hazardous circumstances to their 
 notice as induced them to resolve on finding soiv.e place of 
 shelter for the ships, during tl»e time necessary ior examin- 
 ing the passage. To seek for a secure situation therefore. 
 Captain Lyon, accompanied by Mr* Bushuan, again pro- 
 ceeded. 
 
 At this time the Fury was placed in a must perilous situ- 
 ation. The night being very foggy, ai»d the tide driving 
 the ship too close to Passage Island, Captain Parry or- 
 dered her to be got under sail that he might act as circum- 
 stances should require. A large space of open water was 
 observed at not more than a quarter of a mile distant ; but 
 notwithstanding every effort, the tide was driving the sliip 
 between the island and a small rock lying to tlie eastward. 
 Every exertion to resist this appearing useless, and the tide 
 driving at the rate of a mile and a half an hour, their efforts 
 were directed to keep her in u>id-channel. Had they 
 grounded, with the heavy masses of ice driving around 
 them, every probability was that the ship would be wrecked; 
 but fortunately the ship drove through without sustaining 
 any injury. At day-light on the twenty-sixth, after a most 
 anxious i»ight, they found themselves about the middle ot 
 ♦ he Frozen Strait. The Hecla, having narrowly escaped a 
 similar situation, rejoined her consort in the morning. At 
 eleven Captain Lyon proceeded to search for a place of safety 
 
 P. V. 4. M 
 
8^ parry's second VOYAfl H 
 
 for the ships, and returned at nine in the evening*, statin<^ 
 that he had found a small bay, which was clear of ice, and 
 which did not appear to be influenced by the tide, but re- 
 questing Captain Parry to give it his own personal ex- 
 amination. 
 
 Accordingly the next day Captain Parry and Mr. Bush- 
 nan proceeded to examine the situation. On arriving at it, 
 it appeared to be almost entirely filled with ice. Ascending 
 a hill which was near, they observed another bay, and find- 
 ing good anchorage, returned to the ships, placing a flag 
 on a mass of grounded ice near a shoal point at the entrance. 
 
 The Fury getting under way, made all sail for the inlet. 
 On passing the shoal on which the flag was fixed, the water 
 suddenly shoaled to two or three quarter fathoms ; but carry- 
 ing a press of sail the ship heeled, and by that means did 
 not touch the ground, and they anchored in safety. It ap- 
 peared that a quantity of grounded ice had changed its po- 
 sition, and thus placed them in great peril ; and to prevent 
 danger to the Ilecla, a boat was placed off the reef. 
 
 Captains Parry and Lyon now set out in their boats to 
 examine two difTerent channels, with a view to ascertain 
 through which to take the ships. Captain Parry proceeded 
 to the northern shore, steering for the highest hills. They 
 |)itched their tents, and covered with their blankets, lay un- 
 til four o'clock in the morning, when accompanietl by Mr. 
 Ross, they ascended a hill to look out for a passage for the 
 ships ; they found their view however circumscribed by another 
 hill a few miles distant, and which rose considerably higher. 
 They returned therefore to their tents to breakfast. Captain 
 Parry now feeling himself unwell left the examination to 
 Mr. Ross, who, with his party proceeded accordingly. On 
 his return, Mr. Ross stated that on ascending the hill, he 
 found himself overlooking an extensive range of sea. That 
 there aj)peared to be several islands, which were incum- 
 bered wit I ice, and that the sea appeared to extend to the 
 northward, the direction in which Captain Lyon was pro- 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. S3 
 
 ceeding to examine. Me met with numerous piles of stones, 
 and other evidences of the place havinij been visited by the 
 Esquimaux* The party fell in also with a herd of rein-deer, 
 one of which they shot, but under the supposition that he 
 was dead, the man who had shot him goinj^ to fetch a knife 
 from one of his companions in order to skin him, the anima. 
 in the interim so far recovered as to make his escape. After 
 resting at night, the party on the following morning took to 
 their boats and steered for another island, and having 
 erected a flag on a particular point as a direction for the 
 ships, they returned on board. 
 
 Captain Lyon and his party had, during this, proceeded 
 lip the northern channel. They saw the bottom :ill across. 
 To the northward they had the view of a noble l>;iy, in which 
 were a few islands ; to the eastward was a large opening to 
 the sea. The land on the eastern side of the strait was evi- 
 dently an island, and was named Georgina Island. 
 
 The ships had now to pass through a narrow strait or 
 channel to which the name of Hurd's Channel was given; 
 and for safety three boats were previously sent to take sound- 
 ings. All things being ready on the thirtieth, and the pro- 
 per time for sailing arrived, not a breath of wind was stirring, 
 so that they were obliged to remain at anchor till the next 
 ebb tide. Shortly after three in the afternoon, a light wind 
 springing up, the Fury weighed, and was by the help of 
 the boats, got into the set of the tide. The ice was driving 
 at the rate of five miles an hour when a sudden gust of wind 
 came on and had nearly driven the ship on shore ; and the 
 Fury was twice turned completely round. The Hecla in 
 rounding a point was beset by the ice, in which situation 
 she remained for two hours, but by the assistance of the 
 boats was at length towed out into clear waier. 
 
 On I he first of Sojitemher the appearance of the ice was 
 very unfavourable to their proceeding to the northward. 
 To the north-east, and to the south-south-west, there ap- 
 peared nothing but sea, and that entirely covered with ice. 
 
64 parry's second voyage 
 
 About noon, the Fury in endeavouring to sail through some 
 new ice, was so beset as to require the assistance of the 
 Hecla. Captain Lyon sent his boats with lines to be fas- 
 tened to the Fury, and by the impulse thus imparted, toge- 
 ther with the aid of the wind, the ship got through : the 
 lines however broke in the effort. 
 
 The annals of navigation perhaps do not furnish ati in- 
 stance of difficulties to be grappled with, and dangers so 
 frequent and long continued, as occurred from the first en- 
 trance of the Frozen Strait till finally getting out of it. Nor 
 was this all ; slow as their progress had hitherto been, they 
 had the mortification on the 2nd of September to find that 
 they had drifted back to the Same spot where they had been 
 a full month before. This most disheartening circumstance, 
 at this time when the navigable season was so far advanced, 
 did not however abate their exertions. 
 
 The month of September was employed in examining se- 
 veral inlets to which they gave the names of Lyon's Inlet, 
 lloppner's Inlet, Gore Bay, and Ross's Bay. A number 
 of coves and creeks were also minutely examined to their 
 respective terminations, so that an extent of newly disco- 
 vered coast to the amount of more than two hundred leagues 
 was explored. In almost every place on which they landed 
 traces of the Esquimaux having been on the spot were evi- 
 dent. 
 
 In proceeding with the boats to examine the coast. Cap- 
 tain Parry on one occasion, observed three persons on a hill 
 looking at them ; and as the boats sailed on, these persons 
 ran towards them, and called to them. The boats accord- 
 ingly put in, and the people landed and went to them. Con- 
 trary to what had been experienced on former occasions, on 
 approaching them they remained silent, and manifested no 
 disposition to hold an intercourse. These people in their fi- 
 gure and appearance were also different from their former 
 Jicquaintance, not being so round visaged. There were two 
 men, and one boy of about ten years of age. Each had in 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. Sfe 
 
 his hand a seal-skin case, containing a few arrows and a bow. 
 An exchange was made with thena for one of these cases, for 
 which a knife was given. At first they appeared a little ter- 
 rified, but a fanailiarity was Soon established. The party 
 expressing a desire to visit their habitations, the Esquimaux 
 most readily led the way. The distance was about two 
 miles, over very rough ground ; but these people tripped 
 along with a uimbleness which the English could not follow. 
 As tbey drew near their dwellings, two women with children 
 on their backs came out to meet them. Their tent or dwel- 
 ling place was situated on a rising ground, commanding a 
 view of the sea. Shortly after their arrival two children 
 joined them. Only three persons occupied this tent, the 
 habitations of the others being farther distant. These peo- 
 ple were more cleanly than most of the Esquimaux they 
 had formerly met with, both in their persons and in their 
 habitations. 
 
 As soon as a familiarity was established they began to ask 
 for iron, and they were invited to accompany the party to 
 the boats, with an assurance that they should have some. 
 Although previously they had manifested a propriety of be- 
 haviour ; yet no sooner were they arrived to the boats, and 
 «ach party in some measure engaged with the other in mak- 
 ing them acquainted with the use of the oars, &c. but the 
 women busily employed themselves in pilfering whatever 
 they could secrete, and conveying the articles into their boots, 
 which in the women are always remarkably large, and have 
 openings at the sides capable of obtaining considerable 
 bulk. They managed this with such dexterity that till Mr. 
 Sherer wanted a cup which was required at supper, no sus- 
 picion arose of what was taking place Upon this being 
 missed, a general search was made, and the boots of the fe- 
 males emptied of their ill-got wealth, and the whole party 
 were dismissed with proper marks of disapprobation of their 
 conduct. 
 
 On the 1st of October, jnat as tlu y conip!r(e*l the exa- 
 
mination of the several inlets of the continent, unequivocal 
 syinptoms of winter setting in were but too apparent. The 
 thennometer had for several days past permanently fBl)'_*n 
 below the freezing point, and sometimes a.s low as 20° at 
 i)iijht; which chanj^e, together with the altered appearance 
 of the land, and the rapid formation of young ice near the 
 shores, gave pretty evident notice of the approach of win- 
 ter. The commencement of this dreary season in these re- 
 gions, may, indeed, be fairly dated from the time when 
 the eartli no longer receives and radiates heat enough t,:> 
 melt the snow which falls upon it. When the land is once 
 covered with this substance, so little calculated to favour 
 the absorption of heat, the frigorific process seems to he 
 carried on with increased vigour, defining very clearly the 
 change from summer to winter, with little or no interme- 
 diate interval to which the name of autumn can be ilis 
 tinctly assigned. 
 
 On the 8th the thermometer stood at zero, and the sea 
 was covered with young ice. The nature and effect of this 
 very teasing substance are thus described by Captain Parry. 
 The formation of young ice upon the surface of the water 
 is the circumstance which most decidedly begins to put a 
 stop to the navi^sition of these sea^^, and warns the seaman 
 that his season of active operations is nearly at an end. It 
 is indeed scarcely possible to conceive the degree of hinder- 
 aijce occasioned by this impediment, trifling as it always 
 appears before it is encountered. When the sheet has ac- 
 quired a thickness of about half an inch, and is ofccmsider- 
 able extent, a sliip is liable to be stopped by it, unless 
 favoured by a strong and free wind ; aiul even when still 
 retaining her way through the water, at the rate of a mile 
 an hour, her course is not always under the controul of the 
 helmsman, though assisted by the nicest attention to the 
 action of the sails, but depends ujion some accidental in- 
 crease or decrease in the thickness of the sheet of ice, with 
 which one bow or the other comes in contact. Nor is it 
 
TO THE NORTH POLi:. 87 
 
 possible in this situation for (he boats to render their usual 
 assistance, by running out lines, or otherwise; for having 
 once entered the young ice, they can only be propelled 
 slowly through it by digging the oars and boat-hooks into 
 it, at the same time breaking it across the bows, and by 
 rolling the boat from side to side. After continuing this la- 
 borious work for some time, with little good effect, and 
 considerable damage to the planks and oars, a boat is often 
 obliged to return the same way that she came, backing out 
 in the canal thus formed to no purpose. A ship in this 
 helpless state, her sails in vain expanded to a favourable 
 breeae, her ordinary resources failing, and suddenly arrested 
 in her course upon the element through which she has been 
 accustomed to move without restraint, has often reminded 
 me of Gulliver tied down by the feeble hands of Lilliputians ; 
 nor are the struggles she makes to effect a release, and the 
 apparent insitj;nificance of the means by which her efforts 
 are opposed, the least just or the least vexatious part of the 
 resemblance. 
 
 . All these circumstances pointed out the expediency of 
 immediately placing the ships in the best security that could 
 be found for them during the winter. A small island lying 
 off the point where the continent begins to trend to the 
 northward, was found to afford, at its southern side, good 
 anchorage; and having here suffered the ships to be frozen 
 up, they gave to it the name of Winter Island. 
 
 Every precaution was now taken for the preservation of 
 the boats, sails, and other stores, during the season ; and 
 arrangements were made for the comfort and amusement of 
 the men. Captain Parry observes, that it would be diffi- 
 cult to imagine a situation in which cheerfulness is 
 more to be desired, or less likely to be maintained, than 
 among a set of persons (and those persons seamen too) se- 
 cluded for an indefinite period from the resi of the world ; 
 having little or no employment but that which is in a man- 
 Lcr created to jirevent idleness, and subject- to a degree of 
 
S3 
 
 tedious monotony, ill accordinj^ with taeir usual habits. 
 Nothing can be more just ; and it is therefore of the utmost 
 importance that constant employment, and a habit of cheer- 
 fulness should be kept up by men so situated ; it being well 
 known that there exists an intimate connexion between de- 
 j)ression of mind, and that dreadful disorder the scurvy ; 
 that hope and joy not only prevent, but materially aid in 
 the cure of it, while gloom and despair never fail to aggra- 
 vate its fatal malignity. 
 
 As a source, therefore, of amusement to the people, 
 Captain Parry renewed those theE^trical eotertainments 
 from which they had derived HO rou<Jh benefit at Melville 
 Island, on a former voyage, and on a larger and more 
 commodious scale, while the theatre was improved in its de- 
 corations, and, what vva^ of more importance, in its warnith* 
 Sylvester's stove, in a few hours after lighting it, dissipated 
 every drop of moisture which was found so annoying on the 
 former expedition : the stream of air on the lower deck was 
 generally 120® of Fahrenheit ; that in the cabin near the ap- 
 paratus, 100**, and at the end of the flue, in Captain Parry/s 
 cabin, forty-six. feet from the air vessel, from 65® to 72*. 
 when the mean temperature of the atmosphere was about 
 zero : this diff'used warmth generally over the whole ship 
 and kept her perfectly dry. On some evenings they had 
 music ; and on others (to furnish rational and useful occu- 
 pation,) a school was established in both ships for the in- 
 struction of those who might choose to avail themselves of 
 this advantage ; and Captain Parry, who visited them fre- 
 quently, observes, that he seldom experienced feelings of 
 higher gratification than in this rare and interesting sight: 
 and it is truly gratifying to learn that, on the return of the 
 ships to England, ' every man on board could read his 
 Bible/ In these pursuits, blended with a proper degree of 
 exercise, the shortest day is said to have passed over their 
 heads without any of that interest which, on a former voy- 
 age, constituted a sort of era in their winter's calendar. 
 
TO TRE NORTH POLK. 80 
 
 * Our winter,' observes Captain Parry, * was no longer an 
 experiment : our conoforts were greatly increased ; and the 
 prospect of an early release from the ice as favourable as 
 could be desired.* In short,* he adds, * what with read- 
 ing, writing, making and calculating observations, ob- 
 serving the various natural phenomena, and taking the ex- 
 ercise necessary to preserve our health, nobody, 1 believe, 
 ever felt any symptoms of ennui during our continuance in 
 winter quarters.' 
 
 But, perhaps, the greatest of all their amusements, and 
 that which excited the highest degree of interest, was the 
 unexpected appearance, on the 1st of February, ofanumber 
 of strange people coming towards the ships over the ice. 
 A party who went out to meet them soon discovered them to 
 be Esquimaux, who, on coming up, presented a few blades of 
 whalebone, either as a peace-offering, or for birter, most 
 probably the latter. Some of the women wore handsome 
 clothes of deer-skin, which attracted the attention of the 
 party : on observing this, they began, says Captain Parry, 
 to our utter astonishment and consternation, to strip, 
 though the thermometer stood at 23° below zero. Ail ap- 
 prehension on this score, however, was soon relieved by 
 finding that they were comfortably clothed in a double suit 
 of deer-skin 
 
 Having purchased whatever they had to sell and made 
 them several presents, they were given to understand that 
 it was the wish of the English to visit their huts ; which 
 they very readily agreed to, and both parties set out to- 
 gether. In their way thither the Esquimaux were much 
 amused by a Newfoundland dog which had been taught to 
 fetch and carry. 
 
 It cannot but be considered as a remarkable circumstance 
 that these people, to the amount of more than sixty persons, 
 men, women and children, should have erected their huts 
 and established themselves on a spot within view of the 
 ships, without having been observed by any of the people 
 
 P. V. 4. N 
 
90 parry's second yoyagk 
 
 on board, and to appearance as conaplete as though they 
 bad been long erected. They were fornoed entirely of snow 
 and ice, in the form of a dome, the entrance being low and 
 on the side, through a passage containing two door ways 
 which were arched. From the first apartment, other arched 
 door ways led into recesses or other apartments which were 
 severally occupied, and the women were seen surrounded 
 with the various utensils of their households, their children 
 and their dogs near them. These apartments were about 
 seven feet high in the centre, and each had a piece of ice, 
 forming a window, placed in the roof. Various articles were 
 given to or bartered with them for other commodities, and 
 no occasion was on this visit given to suspect their fair- 
 ness of dealing. 
 
 After spending some time with them, the people set out on 
 their return accompanied by some of the Esquimaux, who 
 did not manifest that surprise which might have been ex- 
 pected on being introduced to such novelties as presented 
 themselves to their notice. 'JPJey were greatly delighted on 
 gomg on board the Hecla, at hearing the fidler play and 
 the men dancing, and joined in the amusement with much 
 apparent glee and satisfaction. They then returned to 
 their huts. 
 
 The next day a large party paid a visit to their huts, and 
 were cheerfully welcomed. They dined in the huts and 
 presented their new acquaintance with some of their meat 
 and biscuit, which they gladly received. A little wine was 
 afterwards given to them, but it did not meet their taste. 
 On one of their visits to the ships they were requested to 
 build a snow hut, which they proceeded to do, and in about 
 three hours formed one of these habitations, placing a piece of 
 ice at the top to admit the light; and in forming it both 
 men and women were employed. 
 
 The officers having naturally selected different individuals 
 to obtain information from and to make enquiries, found 
 it produced a settled intimacy : one intelligent youth, who 
 
TO THE NORTH POLK. 9X 
 
 attached himself to Captain Lyon, told him that he had 
 seen persons like themselves some months previous. Sup- 
 posing that this intercourse afforded an opportunity of con- 
 veying intelligence to England, Captain Parry desired he 
 might be furnished with a letter and requested him to con- 
 vey it to them should he meet with such people again. 
 
 It appears that these people were often in want of neces- 
 sary food, being very improvident ; devouring with greedi- 
 ness large quantities of food when they had killed a seal or 
 other animal, although it was in a most filthy and disgusting 
 state, not being cleaned either from blood or dirt ; but at 
 other times when unsuccessful they were in a state of starv- 
 ation, and it does seem that some of them would have pe- 
 rished had not they been supplied from the ship with bread- 
 dust. This supply was afforded them on several occasions, 
 and some of them were found gnawing a piece of hard seal- 
 skin with the hair on it. The want of food is also generally 
 accompanied with the want of light and warmth, as on such 
 occasions they arc also without oil to burn, so that it is 
 altogether a state of the greatest wretchedness. In these 
 <?ircumstances also tl.ey could obtain no water, but swal- 
 lowed the snow to quench their thirst. 
 
 The Esquimaux appear to exhibit a strange mixture of 
 intellect and dulness, of cunning and simplicity, of inge- 
 nuity and stupidity : few of them could count beyond five, 
 and not one of them beyond ten ; nor could any of them 
 speak a dozen words of English, after a constant inter- 
 course of seventeen or eighteen months ; yet many of their 
 could imitate the manners and actions of the strangers, and 
 were, on the whole, excellent mimics. One woman in par- 
 ticular, of the name of Iligliuk, very soon attracted the at- 
 tention of the voyagers, by the various traits of that supe- 
 riority of understanding for which, it was found, ^he was 
 remarkably distinguished, and held in esteem even by her 
 own countrymen. She had a great fondness for singing, 
 |>ossessed a soft voice, and an excellent ear ; but tliere was 
 
 N 2 
 
92 parry's second voyage 
 
 scarcely any stoppin*^ her when she had once begun : she 
 would listen, however, for hours together to the tunes 
 played on (he organ. She seemed to be aware of her OT?n 
 superiority, and betrayed, on several occasions, a conscious 
 pride of it. 
 
 But the superior intelligence of this extraordinary woman 
 was pernaps most conspicuous in the readiness with which 
 she was made to comprehend the manner of laying down, 
 on paper, the geographical outline of that part of the coast 
 of America she was acquainted with, and the neighbouring 
 islands, so as to construct a chart. At first it was found 
 difficult to make her comprehend what was meant ; but 
 when Captain Parry had discovered that the Esquimaux 
 were filready acquainted with the four cardinal points of 
 the compass, for which they have appropriate names, he 
 drew them on a sheet of paper, together with that portion 
 of the coast just discovered, which was opposite to Winter 
 Island, where they then were, and of course well known 
 to her 
 
 Having done this, he desired her to complete the rest ; 
 accordingly with a countenance expressive of intelligence, 
 she drew a chart of the coast, along her own country nearly 
 north of Winter Island. Without taking her hand off the 
 paper, she depicted the coast to the westward and to the 
 south-west, within a short distance of Repulse Bay. The 
 country situated on the shores to the westward she named 
 Akkoolee, and said that it was inhabited by numbers of 
 Esquimaux. Between Akkoolee and Repulse Bay she de- 
 scribed a large lake in which were found abundance of fish 
 and on its banks many herds of deer. To the westward of 
 these places she stated the existence of a vast and wide 
 sea. 
 
 A party once accompanied the Esquimaux on an excur- 
 sion to catch seals. Seven of them, engaged in the same 
 object, formed themselves into a kind of line, each covering 
 or walking iinmediately behind the one before so as not to be 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 
 
 93 
 
 soen in the direction they were moving.- In this manner they 
 approached a seal which was lyinj^ on the ice, preparing 
 their lines and spears for the attaci\ ; but after they had been 
 more than an liour in making their approaches, the seal sud • 
 denly took to the water and disappointed them of their prey 
 After this they turned their steps towards home, not a little 
 alarmed at finding themselves a mile and a half from the 
 shore, on a sheet of ice which might be drifted off to the sea, 
 an accident which had occurred to former Esquimaux, and 
 probably sometimes every saul had been lost, so that none 
 survived to relate the misfortune. 
 
 In moving towards the shore they passed a small rising 
 of the ice, which quickly drew the attention of one of the 
 Esquimaux, who immediately stopped. It was stated that 
 this was the work of a seal, who probably would work 
 through and come upon the ice. While watching at this 
 spot the man often placed his ear near the ice as if to listen 
 whether the seal was at work. On this occasion however 
 there was no success. 
 
 Wl)en out on these parties, if an Esquimaux has reason 
 to suspect a seal is working beneath, he generally remains 
 to watch until he has killed it. To protect himself from the 
 cold wind he will raise a wall of snow, and will then sit for 
 hours together, listening to the working of the seal through 
 the ice. When the seal has worked its way to the surface, 
 he drives his spear into the creature with all his force, hav- 
 ing a line attached to the spear. He then clears away the 
 ice and repeats the stroke if necessary until it is killed. 
 
 On the 20th several wolves, which had for some days made 
 their appearance, attacked a dog belonging to the Esqui- 
 maux. Mr. Elder, the Greenland mate, witnessing the cir- 
 cumstance, hastened to the spot with his gun, but though 
 the dog made considerable resistance, the wolves had torn 
 bim in pieces before Mr. Elder could reach the spot, leaving 
 only one of bis hind legs. 
 
 On one occasion, when a visit was paid to their huts^ an 
 
94 parry's second voyage 
 
 Esquimaux had just brought in a seal. Two women with 
 large knives in their hands, and besmeared with blood, were 
 cutting up the animal, dividing it into two parts. The blood 
 was then carefully put into the cooking pot, into which also 
 all loose bits were thrown, except that occasionally they eat 
 it themselves, or gave a taste to the children and persons who 
 surrounded them ; the youngest being glad to receive into its 
 open mouth a lump of the raw flesh. When the flesh is cut 
 up, the blubber is lastly taken away. During the process it 
 is a custom to stick pieces of the intestines or skin on the fore- 
 heads of the boys, which they suppose will make them fortu- 
 nate seal-hunters. 
 
 On the 26th of February the Theatre closed with the 
 comedy of the Citizen, and High Life below Stairs. At the 
 conclusion of the performance the ships* companies testified 
 their thanks by three hearty cheers. 
 
 The month of March was now entered on, and the sun was 
 more than ten hours above the horizon every day, but the 
 earth presented one uniform white surface of snow. The ar- 
 rival of the Esquimaux had indeed cliangedthe scene of their 
 amusements, and the time had passed away without their 
 feeling any extraordinary solicitude as to its progress ; but 
 those to whom the care of the expedition was entrusted, be- 
 gan to look forward with earnestness for the opportunity ot 
 proceeding in the discoveries. However anxious their feelings, 
 they had no alternative but patience; but the information they 
 had obtained from Iligliuk suggested the advantage which 
 would arise from an investigation of the coast by land, so far a«? 
 was practicable v^^hile the ships remained frozen up in Winter 
 Island. Captain Lyon offiered to take the command of the 
 party ; and one of the Esquimaux, Ayoket, Captain Lyon's 
 friend, was invited to accompany them. It was proposed 
 to make an excursion to Amitioke, Iligliuk*s country. 
 Ayoket, however, after much uncertainty and wavering^, 
 declined to be of the party, notwithstanding a brightly po- 
 lished brass kettle, of a larger size, and of much more 
 
TO THii NORTH POLE. 06 
 
 value than auy present hitherto made them, was to be the 
 recompense of his journey. An Esquimaux is of a charac- 
 ter not to be much moved by the acquisition of property, 
 and prefers a life of indolence to any riches which may 
 be obtained by exertion. That part of the coast described by 
 Iligliuk, which the English had examined, was found very 
 correct ; and other charts, which others of the Esquimaux 
 were desired to draw, without any concert with each other, 
 were found to aa^ree with Iligliuk's in a surprising degree. In- 
 deed, they received information from these people on vari- 
 ous useful matters, which were afterwards found to be cor- 
 rect, when the ships came to the places described. 
 
 On the 15th Captain Lyon left the ships, a breeze of 
 wind blowing from the northward, accompanied with snow 
 drift. The first night after his departure was one of the 
 most severe and inclement that any of the people had been 
 exposed to, and excited considerable apprehension for their 
 safety among those remaining in the ships. The wind and 
 drift continued during the whole of the 16th, and considera- 
 bly increased the solicitude for their safety, but to send a 
 party in quest of them while the state of the weather was 
 such, appeared impossible, as no traces could be had of the 
 way they had taken, and under such circumstances it would 
 add to the number of persons placed in perilous situations. 
 A party was however held in readiness to proceed whenever 
 the weather might moderate, when to the great joy of all on 
 board, they arrived at the ships. 
 
 The sufferings which this party had endured during their 
 short absence were severe in the extreme. Having as- 
 cended a hill to the northward, a strong wind blew the snow 
 directly in their faces, and many of the party received se- 
 vere frost bites. They proceeded towards a bay which had 
 been observed, and afterwards descending suddenly arrived 
 at the head of the bay. The extreme severity of the wea- 
 ther determined Captain Lyoii to pitch their tents. Every 
 one of the party smoaked tobacco to promote warmth, but 
 
06 parry's second voyage 
 
 the severity of the cold was such that John Lee, one of the 
 party, was seized with a shivering fit and severe pains in his 
 loins. A hole was dug in the earth to admit of receiving 
 them in a sitting posture. A fire was made with difficulty, 
 and a mess of warm soup was prepared for every man. 
 After taking this refreshment, they crept into their 
 blanket bags and endeavoured, by keeping close to each 
 other, to obtain a little warmth and sleep. In the morning 
 they made a fire and prepared a cup of warm tea, after 
 which they resolved to set out on their return to the ships, 
 from which they supposed they were about six miles distant. 
 The wind being at their backs, they proceeded rather 
 briskly, but the cold was so intense that some of the party 
 began to exhibit symptoms of drowsiness and insensibility 
 which is so common and so fatal in intensely cold cli- 
 mates. The faces of several were severely frost bitten, 
 and they had lost the sense of feeling in their fingers and 
 toes. Serjeant Spackman, though repeatedly warned that 
 his nose was frozen, was in such a state of senselessness as 
 to take no notice of the advice, and one side of Lis face be- 
 came frozen quite bard, the eye-lids stiff", and part of the 
 ripper lip was drawn up. Four ot the party appeared to be 
 in such a situation as to be incapable of surviving. In this 
 state they uqexpectedly came to a beaten track which fortu- 
 nately soon led them to the ships. All had severe frost bites 
 in different parts of the body, which occasioned the loss of 
 the flesh and skin, but proper care being now taken of them, 
 they all ultimately did well. 
 
 Early in the morning of the 2nd of April, the Esquimaux 
 were observed moving from the huts, and several sledajes 
 drawn by dogs, heavily laden, went off' to the westward. 
 It appeared , on enquiry, that half of the people had gone 
 over the ice in quest of food. On visiting the snow huts 
 which they had just quitted they found that the places compos- 
 ing their beds and fire-places were turned up and searched 
 that no articles might be lost. The walls were stained 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE 9f^ 
 
 With lamp-black, blood, and other kinds of filth, and were 
 in part demolished and laid open, to give them the moie 
 ready opportunity of removing* their goods 
 
 The remainder of the party were out on the ice in pur 
 suit of walrusses ; and althoilgh the ice was floating and in 
 detached masses, they seemed to be under no apprehen- 
 sions as to the danger they were in. The wind at this time 
 indeed set in for the land, and this perhaps might render 
 them confident 
 
 On the 13th of April, another party of the Esquimaux be- 
 gan to remove their effects, and Iligliuk and her husband, 
 and a few others, came on boara to make a farewell visit, and 
 said that on the succeeding day they all should remove from 
 Winter Island. A few presents were made to them on their 
 departure. 
 
 At the close of the month of May ii became a matter of 
 general observation, and of course of general regret, how 
 few symptoms of thawing had yet appeared ; and it was im- 
 possible not to recollect that Melville Island had, on the 
 same day, two years before, advanced full as far in throw- 
 ing off its winter's covering ; that before this time, at the 
 latter station, they had experienced several hours of hard 
 rain ; and that, in consequence, the ice around Melville Is- 
 land had assumed a green appearance, while at Winter Is- 
 land it remained perfectly white. Another comparison was 
 made between the two winter-quarters. The first flower 
 was brought on board as a matter of curiosity on the 9th of 
 June, which was one day later than it had made its appear- 
 ance at Melville Island. Again, in the middle of June, a 
 few gallons of water were collected from some little pools 
 while, at the same date, at Melville Island, the ravines 
 were beginning to be dangerous to pass, and were actually 
 impassable during the third week in June ; yet Winter Is^. 
 land is situated in lat. 66i^, or 81® south of Melville Island, 
 which lies in lat. 74i*. The lowest temperature at Melville 
 Island was 55", at Winter Island, 40°. 
 a 5 o 
 
08 parry's second voyage 
 
 Having neady completed the ainth memtli at Winter Is- 
 Jand, on tke 2d of July, the ships, partly by th-e ex^crtions of 
 the men in sawing the ice, and paitly by the wind drifting 
 from the lan<J, finally effected their escape ; doubled tha 
 south-east p«)int of this part of America, and s*ood to the 
 northward up Fox's Channel; keeping the coast of the con*, 
 tinent, as directed by their instructions, close on board, and 
 sailing in a channel of water from three or four himdired 
 yaids to two miles in width. The shore, in naost placess^ 
 was lined with oM iee, while, to sea-ward, large floes, and 
 masses were observed in violent motion, being acted uiDoxk 
 by the wind, currents and tides. By these agents, in so 
 confined a channel, one of the ships was swept against the. 
 other; and after some grinding and squeezing, they es- 
 caped with the loss of one of the Hecla's boats, which was 
 torn to pieces by the Fury's anchor. On the turn of the 
 tide, bo-werer, when both it and the current set to the south- 
 ward, the whole of the navigable channel, through which 
 the ships were slowly working their way, was aknost imme- 
 diately filled by a vast body of drift ice- 
 
 llie flood-tide coming down loaded with a more tli^n or- 
 dinary quantity of ice, pressed the ship very much, and ren- 
 dered it necessary to run out the stream cable, in addition 
 W the hawsei*s^ which werei fast to the land ice. Thi$ 
 was scarcely accomplished when a very heavy and extensive 
 floe took the ship om her broadside, and being backed by 
 another la?ge b«dy of ice, gmdually lifted her ateru as. if by 
 the action of a wodge. The weight every moanpnt increast- 
 ing, obliged the Heelia to veer on the hawsers, whose friction 
 was so great as nearly to cut through the bitt-heads, and ut- 
 timately set them on fire, so that it became requisite for peo- 
 ple to attend with buckets of waten. The pressure was at 
 iaigth too powerM for resistance, and the stream cable, with 
 .two six inch hav,"sers and one of G^yfe went at the same mo- 
 ment. Three others »odB followed. The sen was too fuU 
 ©f ice to allow the siiip to drive,, and the only way by which 
 
T<^ THE NORTH POLK. 93 
 
 she could yield to the enormous weight which oppressed her 
 was by leaning over the land ice, while her stern at tJhe 
 same time w?ls entirely lifted more than iive feet out of the 
 water. The lo^^'er dteck beams now complained very much, 
 and the whole frame of the ship underwent a trial which 
 would have proved fatal to any less strengtliened vessel. At 
 this moment the iiidder was unhung with a sudden jerk, 
 iviiich broke up the nidder case ai.d struck the drivei' boom 
 with great i<)rce. The pi^esuiie wliich Idad been so damge- 
 rous at length proved their friend, for by its increasing 
 weig-ht the floe on which they were borae burst upwards, 
 u-iable to resist its force. The siiip righted, and, a smidl 
 Mack opening in the water, diove sev-eral miles to the south- 
 ward before she could be again secured to get the rudder 
 hung; circumstances much to be regretted at the moment, 
 as the people had been employed with but little intermission 
 for three days and nights, attendiiig to the safety ( f the ship 
 in this dangerous tkleway. 
 
 The Fuiy had almost as narrow an escape as the Hecla ; 
 a little befoie noo«i a beavy floe some miles in length, being 
 probably a part of that lately detached from the shore, came 
 driving down fast, giving serious reason to apprehend more 
 fatal catastrophe than any yet encountered. In a few mi- 
 nutes it came in contact, at the rate of a mile and a half an 
 hour, with a point of the land-ice left the preceding night 
 by its own separation, breaking it up with a tremendous 
 crash, and forcing numberless immense masses, many tons 
 in weight, to the height of fifty or sixty feet, from whence 
 they again rolled down on the inner or land side, and were 
 (piickly succeeded by a fresh supply. While they were 
 obliged to he ^ri«t spectators of this grand but terrific sight, 
 being witlrrn five or six hundred yards of the point, the dan- 
 ger was two-fold ; first, lest the floe should now swing in^ 
 secondly, lest its pressure should detach the land ice to 
 vihich the ship was secured, and thus set them adrift and 
 
AOO PARRi:'b SECOND VOYAOK 
 
 At the mercy of the tides. Happily however neither of these 
 occured, the floe remaining stationary for the rest of the 
 tide and setting off with the ebb which made soon after. 
 
 In addition to the danger which threatened to crush and 
 overwhelm the ships among these tremendous masses of ice, 
 thus thrown into violent motion, was the chance of being 
 beset in the midst of the floes, and in that helpless state 
 swept away with the flood-tide and cunent to the southward, 
 and drifted back again to Southampton Island, as had hap- 
 pened to them before, and thus again would the labour of 
 weeks be inevitably lost. By the 12th of July, however, 
 after long and unremitting perseverance, and by taking ad- 
 vantage of every opening and breeze of wind to move the 
 ships to the northward, they had reached the latitude of 67* 
 18', opposite to a considerable opening in the land, out of 
 which a strong current was observed to set into the sea. 
 
 On the following day they had an unobstructed run of fifty 
 miles, an event of no very trifling impdVtance, as Captain 
 Parry says, in this tedious and most uncertain navigation 
 About this place their Esquimaux friends had prepared them 
 for meeting with vast numbers of the walrus, or sea-horse ; 
 and accordingly they fell in with such a multitude of these 
 animals, as, in Captain Parry's opinion, were probably not 
 to be seen in any other part of the world. They were lying 
 in large herds on the loose pieces of drift ice, huddled upon 
 one another, from twelve to thirty in a group. They were 
 not in the least frightened by the people getting upon the 
 same piece of ice with themselves; but v^rhen approached 
 close, they began to show an evident disposition to give 
 battle. From the prodigious numbers of these creatures, 
 and other circumstances, the navigators were now certain 
 that the names of the two islands, Amitioke and Ooglit, as 
 laid down in the chart of Iligliuk and the other Esquimaux, 
 were in their proper positions. 
 On the shore, they observed several tents, and soon after 
 
TO THE ?JORTU POLE. 101 
 
 they saw some cauoes coining towards them. Captains 
 Parry and Lyon left the ships and went to meet the Esqui- 
 maux in their boats. At rivst they manifested some timi- 
 dity, but this was soon overcome. It appeared however 
 that they had no previous knowledge of the ships being in 
 these seas, so that it was clear none of the people from Win- 
 ter Island had yet arrived here. On reaching the shore se- 
 veral more of the natives met them and conducted them to 
 their tents, when they soon found themselves in the midst of 
 a number of men, women, and children, all of them pro- 
 vided with some article for barter. 
 
 These tents formed the summer habitations of the Esqui- 
 maux, and were of an oblong shape, being formed of the 
 skins of the seal and the walrus, having in the centre a pole 
 by which they are supported. Sometimes they join two tents 
 together to form an habitation, when the families are large. 
 These people were amused by a variety of anecdotes, which 
 were related to them of the occurrences which took place at 
 Winter Island, and to which they listened with the most 
 solicitous attention. 
 
 After having spent a considerable time with them, the En- 
 glish took to their boats in order to return. The weather 
 had become very severe, the wind increasing to a gale. 
 After considerable effort to reach the ship, Captain Lyon 
 was under the necessity ©f returning to shore, having un- 
 fortunately broken one of his oars. Captain Parry fiund it 
 also impossible, after great exertions, to reach his ship and 
 was obliged to return to his former landing place. The Es- 
 quimaux gladly received them, and they were accommo- 
 dated in different parties with lodgings, at the tents of these 
 people. Having all their clothes wet, they were provided 
 with change of apparel by their hosts, and in these, with a 
 seal-skin for a blanket, they contrived to pass a tolerably 
 comfortable night, and returned to the ships the following 
 morning. 
 
 The ships now proceeded to sail to the spot beyf)nd 
 
102 parry's second voyage 
 
 them, v/here they expected to find that muc'a and long* 
 sought passage that was to conduct them into the Polar Sea. 
 This pa«»age they speedily recognized in its proper place ; 
 and congrutulated themselves on being at the very thres- 
 hold of the door that was to open a way to the final success 
 of their enterprize : the mortification which succeeded, may 
 be imagined, when it was perceived that an unbroken 
 sheet of ice extended completely across the mouth of the 
 strait, from the northern to the southern laud; and this 
 too at so advanced a period as the middle of July. The 
 disappointment became the more serious on finding, from 
 the nature of the ice which formed the impediment, that it 
 bore evident marks of being a floe which had long been at- 
 tached to the land on every side ; and it was besides so le- 
 vel and continuous as to convince them that it had suffered 
 no disruption in the course of that season. 
 
 To enter into the details of their unwearied endeavours to 
 push to the westward through this frozen passage ; the 
 scarcely perceptible progiess made by the partial and occa- 
 sional fragments of ice that separated from the main body j 
 the anxiety with which every such breaking off was watched ; 
 and the final repulse of the ships before they reached the 
 middle of the strait, where it was hermetically sealed by the 
 ice and three islands, among which it was closely jammed 
 by a perpetual current from the westward, would be a repe- 
 tion of simultaneous movements, from the time of their first 
 arrival before it, until frozen again into tlieir winter quar- 
 ters. They struggled to make way for sixty-days; during 
 which the whole distance they advanced to the westward in 
 the strait was about forty miles ; of this period, however, 
 twenty-five days were spent close to the edge of the ice, in 
 the narrows, watching with intense anxiety for every piece 
 that separated from the main floe, and took its departuie to 
 the eastward. 
 
 From the moment of their arrival before the mouth of the 
 strait, their exertions were incessant, not only to force the 
 
TO THE NORTH FOJ.li. 10-^ 
 
 t^i\y& tja the westward, biit to asceitain with precision tbe 
 j|;fiographical position and features of this northern extremity 
 of America, and of th^e numeroua islands and rocky inkts 
 m this neighbourhood, by which the passage seemed to be 
 guarded. Captain Lyon had accompanied an Esquimaux 
 to a salmon fishery up a large inlet a little to the southward 
 of the stiait, but from the thick and inclement weather, he 
 was unable to point out its exact direction, and returned 
 without reaching its extreme westerly termination.. It was 
 therefore deeimied possible that it might be a second strait, 
 communicatiiig \\^th the Polav Sea. To ascertain whether 
 this was the fact or not, was now of great importance. 
 Stopped, as they had now hean at the veiy threshold of the 
 uorth-west passage for nearly four weeks, without advanc- 
 ing twice as many miles to tbe westward, suspense at such 
 a crisis was sc.aicely the les* gainful because, it was inevita- 
 We. As Captain Parry felt it his duty to pass no opening 
 that held out the least chance of a passage, without deter- 
 mining that point, he sent out repeated parties to explore it, 
 but without success ; till at length he himself effected it, but 
 Bot without difficwlty, having traced it into the American 
 continent until he? fovvnd only a few feet depth in water, and 
 rtunided its extreme end. This opening was named Hoop- 
 er's Inlet. 
 
 When the 17th of September had arrived, it was observed 
 with pain that the ice of the preceding year's foimation was 
 not yet detached from the shores, while a fresh formation 
 had already commenced. Appeaiances were indeed opposea 
 not only to making any further progress, but to continuing 
 a moment longer in the strait, which Captain Parry named 
 the stiait of Fury and Hecla, lest they should be frozen in, 
 as in that case it would probably be eleven months before the 
 gfaips would be extricated from the ice. 
 
 After the laborious efforts to obtain, the desired passage, 
 the disappointment which they now met with, can be 
 probably appreciated only by those who possess spirits 
 
104 parry's second voyage 
 
 ardent in the pursuit of an object on which their desires are 
 fixed. Captain Parry thought proper to take the opinion of 
 the senior officers as to his future operations ; and with thf^t 
 view addressed a letter to Captain Lyon and Lieutenants 
 Hoppner and Nias, who coincided in opinion with him that 
 it was proper not to risk being frozen up in the Strait. He 
 then caused a pubUc notification to be made on board each 
 ship, stating his purpose to examine the coast of Cockburn 
 Island to the northward and eastward ior a proper place to 
 winter in; and if not successful there, to seek a place at 
 Igloolik, hoping that by an early release of the ships in the 
 ensuing summer, they should have an opportunity of se^ 
 lecting the most eligible place for their future attempts at 
 discovery. 
 
 During the night the new ice so accumulated as to pre- 
 sent a strong resistance to the movements of the ships. 
 Various means were resorted to, but oftentimes without ef- 
 fect. The only successful mode appears to have been in 
 what is called in the sea-phrase sallying, that is, the men 
 in a body run from side to side, by which means the ship 
 rolls and is relieved from the ice. At length, after much 
 effort, the ships got clear of the Strait. From an attentive 
 observation of the tides, it appears that the flood comes 
 from the westward, and in addition to this, that there is a 
 permanent current in the same direction. This current it 
 was supposed arose from the melting of the snow on the 
 shores of the Polar bea, and that this Strait was the only 
 outlet for it to the southward. 
 
 A few days more decided what was to be done ; the young 
 ice had assumed that consistency which baffles all attempts 
 to operate upon it. Too thick to allow a ship to be forced 
 throue;h it; too tough for regular sawing, and yet dange- 
 rous for men to walk upon. To get a boat her own length 
 through it would occupy a dozen men a quarter of an hour ; 
 and, after all, without being able to make a channel for the 
 ship. Under such circumstances, it was obvious that no 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 105 
 
 time wa« to be lost in looking out for the best winter-quarters 
 that the neighbouring islands would afi'ord ; but it was not 
 till after many dark and stormy days were spent at sea 
 an^ong the floating ice, and the loss of several anchors, 
 that they succeeded in bringing the ships into their destined 
 births, at the island of Igloolik, on the 3Qth of October, 
 after employing the men for several days in the arduous 
 task of cutting a canal through the ice. 
 
 The whole length of the canal was four thousand three 
 hundred and forty-three feet ; the thickness of the ice m the 
 level and regular parts being from twelve to fourteen inches, 
 but in many places, where a separation had occurred, 
 amounting to several feet. The cheerful alacrity with 
 which the men continued this laborious work during thirteen 
 days, the thennometer being frequently at zero, and once 
 as low as 9* in that interval, cannot but be admired. It was 
 satisfactory, moreover, to find that in the performance of 
 this, not a single addition had been made to the sick list of 
 either ship, except by the accident of one man's falling into 
 the «anal, and who returned to his duty a day or two after- 
 wards. 
 
 Captain Parry's reflections on this occasion are both just 
 and natural ; and the expedient to which he at once deter- 
 mined to resort speaks much as to his enterprising character. 
 Flattering as their prospect appeared at the commence- 
 ment of the past summer, their efforts had certainly not been 
 attended with a proportionate degree of success ; and little 
 satisfaction remained to them at the close of the season, but 
 the consciousness of having left no means within their reach 
 untried, that could promote the desired object. It re- 
 quired indeed but a single glance at the chart to perceive 
 that whatever the last summer's navigation had added to the 
 geographical knowledge of tlie eastern coast of America, 
 and its adjacent islands, they had effected nothing in refer 
 ence to the discovery of a North-West passage. The disco- 
 very of the Frozen Strait, had made known a channel of 
 
106 PARRi S SECOND VUYAGE 
 
 communication between the waters, but its frozen state 
 formed an impenetrable barrier to any intercourse by human 
 eflforts. 
 
 They were soon greeted by a number of Esquimaux, who 
 shouted and jumped with all their mig-ht. A crowd of them 
 met the party who landed and manifested every demonstra- 
 tion of joy. When told that the Eng-lish purposed to spend 
 the winter among them, they manifested the greatest satis- 
 faction. They made daily visits to the ships, bringing their 
 ^vives and children in great numbers on sledges. They ap- 
 peared gladly to assist in any duties which the people of the 
 ships were employed in ; as pulling the ropes, sawing the 
 ice, heaving the windlass, and other labour ; always accom- 
 panying their efforts with the tone of voice which the crew 
 used on such occasions, in the imitati(^n of which they seemed 
 to particularly pride themselves. 
 
 Some of the Esquimaux with whom the ships' companies 
 had spent the preceding winter at Winter Island also had 
 now arrived at Igloolik, and copying the manners of the En- 
 glish, shook their friends heartily by the hand, as express- 
 ing their pleasure at meeting them again. One of them, 
 who had obtained the name of John Bull, accosted almost 
 every individual of the ship's company, with a how do ye 
 do ; and desirous of manifesting his knowledge and familia- 
 rity with the uses of the machinery to his companions, he 
 instructed them in the various uses to which they were ap- 
 plied. 
 
 Being now fairly fixed in their second winter-quarters, 
 they set about making such arrangements as experience had 
 taught them would add considerably to their comforts. In- 
 structed by the Esquimaux, Captain Parry caused a wall of 
 snow twelve feet high to be thrown up round the Fury, at 
 the distance of twenty yards from her, forming a large square 
 like that of a farm-yard, by which the snow-drift was kept 
 out, and a good sheltered walk afforded against every wind ; 
 and ])v it was also prevented, in some measure, the abstrac- 
 
TO THE ISORTH POLE iOt 
 
 timi of beat from the ship, which was founrl to be very con- 
 siderable in high winds. The distance between the two 
 ships was too great to allow of the continuan<ie of theatrical 
 entertainments, which, in fact, had, with other occupations, 
 in a great degiee lost their interest with their novelty ; the 
 want of these, however, was amply compensated by the al- 
 most daily visits of the Esquimaux, which afforded both to 
 officers and men a fund of constant variety and never-failing^ 
 amusement, that no resources of their own could possibly 
 have furnished. The men, however were too welt aware 
 of the advantages which they had derived from the schools, 
 not to be desirous of their re-establishment ; this was accor- 
 dingly done, and they continued to l)e attended regularly for 
 the six succeeding months. 
 
 The Esquimaux who had fixed their winter-quarters od 
 the island of Igloolik were more numerous than those on 
 Winter Island. The snow-houses were constructed on the 
 same principle ; some, however, were lined with skins, over 
 which was a covering of snow ; and some had passages to 
 them from ten to fifteen feet in length, and from four 
 to five feet high, neatly constructed of large flat slabs of 
 ice, cemented together by snow and water; others Vv'ei-e 
 entirely built of this material, of a circular or octangular 
 form. 
 
 The first week in Navember a number of Esquimaux ar 
 rived from the island of Amitioke, among whom were some 
 of their old acquaintance. Among others of their old friends 
 was a youth of the name of Tooloak, who was on the eve of 
 marriage with a very pretty young girl, of about the age of 
 sixteen ; the youth himself being a year or two older. The 
 ceremony of marriage appeared to consist in the intended 
 husband's taking away the girl by force, her parents however 
 quietly permitting it. It was understood that the parents' 
 authority and will in this respect was very great. The new 
 niairied couple then occupy a separate dwelling and form a 
 new household establishment. Tooloak with his bride, 
 
108 PARRX'S SECOiM) VOYACit: 
 
 afterwaids paid a visit to the ships, and received a nu!nJi<?r 
 of* presents. 
 
 One of these people, who had two wivas, between wIkhi 
 some dispute or altercation took place, with his knife cut one 
 of them several times across the forehead, and the other 
 across the arm. To this severe chastisement they both ap- 
 peared to submit without a munnur at his conduct ; and the 
 man did not altogether approve of the sympathy which the 
 English manifested on the occasion ; but seemed to act as 
 under the conviction that his conduct was most reasonable 
 and proper. 
 
 Captain Parry and Captain Lyon purchased each of them 
 a sledge and dogs, which they often made use of during the 
 winter. The dogs soon became familiarized to their new 
 masters, and remained on board the ships. The Esquimaux 
 could not bear the idea of the dogs being killed, and would 
 not part with them utitil assured that they should be kept 
 alive. 
 
 On the 8th of December two of the dogs belonging to the 
 ships set off in pursuit of a wolf, but one of them (a terrier,) 
 was killed and eaten by the wolf. It was a matter of doubt 
 whether these dogs had not mistaken the wolf for the Es- 
 quimaux dogs. 
 
 The Christmas of this year was kept as a festival. An 
 additional allowance of provisions was issued, among which 
 was a pieee of beef which had been killed on board the Nau. 
 tilus in the month of June 18-21 . 
 
 In the months of December and January the Esquimaux 
 had spread themselves widely around the space occupied by 
 the ships, in order as was suppossd to have gi'eater oppor- 
 tunities of fishing. They departed from their habitations in 
 so quiet and peaceable a manner, thai theit removal had 
 sometimes taken place for several days previous to the peo- 
 ple on board the ships having any intimation of their havingj 
 left the neighbourhood. 
 
 At (\n^ time great numberti of the EsquimauA were labour- 
 
TO THE iNOK'lH POLE, 109 
 
 ing under severe sickness. Several deaths took place in 
 consequence of their want of medical assistance, although 
 as soon as the knowledge of these circumstances came to 
 the eais of Captain Parry, every possible assistance was af- 
 forded them. I'hey were taken on board the ships, and 
 part of the cabin screened off for their accommodation. 
 Warm broth, and other food was given to them, and every 
 effort used for their recovery and comfort. 
 
 One family was taken on boaid the Hecla. Captain Lyon 
 says, the mother, named Poo-too-alook, was about 35 years of 
 agCy the child about three years, yet not weaned, and a fe- 
 male ; there was also another daughter Shega, about twelve 
 4)r thirteen years of age, who as well as her father was a most 
 attentive nurse. My hopes were but small as far as con- 
 cerned the mother, but the child was so patient that I hoped 
 from its docility soon to accustom it to soups and nouiishing 
 food, as its only complaint was actual starvation. I screened 
 off a portion of my cabin, and arranged some bedding for 
 them, in the same manner as ttiC Esquimaux do their own 
 Warm broth, dry bedding, and a comfortable cabin did won- 
 dois before evening, and our medical men gave me groat 
 hopes. As an introduction to a system of cleanliness, and 
 preparatory to washing the sick, who woe in a most filth}' 
 state, I scrubbed Shega and her father from head to foot 
 and dressed them in new clothes. During the night I per- 
 suaded both mother and child, who were very restless and 
 constantly moaning, to take a few spoonfuls of soup. On 
 the morning of the 24th the woman appeared considerably 
 improved, and she both spoke and ate a Utile. As she was 
 covered wdth so thick a coating of dirt that it could be tajien 
 off in scales, I obtained her assent to wash her face and 
 hands a little before noon. The man and his daughter now 
 came to my table to look at some things I had laid out to 
 amuse them ; and after a few minutes Shega lifted the cur- 
 tain to look at her mother, when she again let it fall and 
 trembling told us she was d«:ad. 
 
310 parry's second voyage 
 
 The liusband sighed heavily, the daughter burst into 
 tears, and the poor little infant made the inoniejnt more dis- 
 tressing by calling in a plaintive tone on its molhcr, by whose 
 side it was lying. I determined on burying the woman ou 
 shore, and the husband was much pleased at my promising 
 that the body should be drawn on a sledge by men instead 
 of dogs. Takkeelikkeeta, her husband, had told me that 
 when he left the huts with his wife, a dog was devouring 
 the body of another lilsquimaux, as he passed it. 
 
 Takkeelikkeeta now prepared to dress the dead body, and 
 in the first place stopped his nose with deer's hair and put 
 on his gloves, seeming unwilling that his naked hand should 
 come in contact with the corpse. I observed in this occupa- 
 tion his care that every article of dress should be as care- 
 fully placed as when his wife was living, and having drawn 
 the boots on the wrong legs, he pulled them off again and 
 put them properly; this ceremony finished, the deceased 
 was sewed up in a hammock, and at the husband's urgent 
 request her face was left uncovered. An officer who was 
 present at the time agreed with me in fancying that the man, 
 fioin his words and actions, intimated a wish that the living 
 child might be enclosed with its mother. We may have been 
 mistaken, but there is an equal probability that we were 
 right in our conjecture; for according to Crantz and Egede 
 the Greenlanders were in the habit of burying their mother- 
 less infants from a persuasion that they must otherwise starve 
 to death, and also from being unable to bear the cries of the 
 little ones while lingering for several days without suste- 
 nance ; for no woman will give them any share of their milk, 
 which they consider as the exclusive property of their own 
 offspring. My dogs being carefully tied up at the man's 
 request, a party of our people accompanied by me drew the 
 body to the shore, where we made a grave about a foot deep, 
 being unable to get lower on account of the frozen earth, 
 Tlie body was placed on its back at the husband's request, 
 and he then stepped into the grave and cut all the stitches 
 
TO THE XOIITH POLE. Ill 
 
 of the hainiii«)ck, although without throwhig it open, seem- 
 ing to imply that the dead should be left unconfined. I laid 
 a woman's knife by the side of the body and we filled up the 
 grave, over which we also piled a quantity of heavy stones 
 which no animal could remove. When all was done and we 
 returned to the ship, the man lingered a few minutes be- 
 hind us and repeated two or three sentences, as if address- 
 ing himself to his departed wife : he then silently followed. 
 We found Shega quite composed and attending her little sis- 
 tor, between whose eye-brows she had made a spot with 
 soot, which I learned was because being unweaned it must 
 certainly die. During the night my little charge called on 
 its mother without intermission, yet the father slept as 
 soundly until morning as if nothing had happened. 
 
 All who saw my patient on the morning of the 25th gave 
 me great hopes; she could swallow easily and was even 
 strong enough to turn or sit upright without assistance, and 
 in the forenoon slept very soundly. At noon the sister of 
 the deceased, Ootooguak, with her husband and son, came 
 to visit me. She had first gone to the Fury and was laugh- 
 ing on deck, and at her own request was taken below, not 
 caring to hurry herself to come to the house of mourning. 
 Even when she came to the Hecla, she was in high spirits, 
 laughing and capering on deck as if nothing had happened, 
 but on being shewn to my cabin, where Shega having heard 
 of her arrival was sitting crying in readiness, she began with 
 her niece to howl most wofully. I however put a stop to 
 this ceremony, for such it certainly was, under the plea of 
 its disturbing the child. The arrival of a pot of smoking 
 walrus-flesh soon brought smiles on all faces but that of 
 Takkeelikkeeta, who refused food and sat sighing deeply 
 the others ate, chatted, and laughed, as if nothing but eat- 
 ing was worth thinking of. Dinner being over, I received 
 thanks for burying the woman in such a way that neither 
 w(»lves, dogs, nor foxes could dig her up and eat her, foi 
 all were full of the story of Keimooseuk, and even begged 
 
14,2 parry's second voyage 
 
 some of our officers to go to Igloolik and shoot the offending 
 dogs. A young woman named Ablik, sister to Ooyarra. 
 was induced after much entreaty and a very large present 
 of beads, to offer her breast to the sick child, but the poor 
 little creature pushed it angrily away Another woman 
 was asked to do the same, but although her child was half 
 weaned she flatly refused. 
 
 The aunt of my little one seeming anxious to remain, 
 and Shega being now alone, I invited her to stop the night. 
 In the evening the child took meat and jelly and sat up to 
 help itself, but it soon after resumed its melancholy cry for 
 its mother. At night my party had retired to sleep, yet I 
 heard loud sighing occasionally, and on lifting the curtain 
 I saw Takkeelikkeeta standing and looking mournfully at 
 his child. T endeavoured to compose him and he promised 
 to go to bed, but hearing him sighing in a few minutes, I 
 went and found the pooi infant was dead, and that its fa- 
 ther had been some time aware of it. He now told me it 
 had seen its mother the Jasl time it called on her, and that 
 the had beckoned it to Khil-la, (Heaven) on which it in- 
 stantly died. He said it was "good" that the child was 
 gone, that no children out-lived their mothers, and that the 
 black spot which Shega had frequently renewed was quite 
 sufficient to ensure the death of the infant. 
 
 My party made a hearty breakfast on the 26th, and I ob- 
 served they did not scruple to lay the vessel containing the 
 meat on the dead child, which I had wrapped in a blanket : 
 and this unnatural table excited neither disgust nor any other 
 feeling amongst them more than a block of wood could have 
 done. We now tied up all the dogs as Takkeelikkeeta de- 
 Bired, and took the child about a quarter of a mile eastern 
 of the ships to bury it in the snow ; for the father assured 
 me that her moi her would cry in her g^ave if any weight of 
 stones or earth pressed on her infant., She herself, he 
 feared, had already felt pain from the monument of stones 
 which we had laid upon her. The snow in which we dug 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 113 
 
 the child's grave was not above a foot deep, yet we were not 
 allowed to cut into the ice or even use any slabs of it in con 
 structing the little tomb. The body, wrapped in a blanket, 
 and having the face uncovered, being placed, the father put 
 the slings by which its deceased mother had carried it, on 
 the right side, and in compliance with the Esquimaux cus- 
 tom of burying toys and presents with their dead, I threw in 
 some beads. A few loose slabs of snow were now placed 
 80 as to cover without touching the body, and with this very- 
 slight sepulchre the father was contented, although a fox 
 could have dug through it in half a minute. We however 
 added more snow, and cemented all by pouring about twenty 
 buckets of water, which were brought from the ship, on 
 every part of the mound, I remarked that before our task 
 was completed the man turned and walked quietly to the 
 ships. 
 
 During die two last days, I obtained some information 
 with respect to mourning ceremonies, or at all events such 
 as related to the loss of a mother of a family ; three days 
 were to be passed by the survivors without their walking 
 out on the ice, performing any kind of work, or even having 
 any thing made for them. Washing is out of the question 
 ivith Esquimaux at most times, but now it was not allowed 
 to perform the necessary ablutions of their hands and faces, 
 however greasy or dirty they might be made by their 
 food, the girl's hair was not to be put in pigtails, and 
 every thing was neglected ; Takkeelikkeeta was not to go 
 sealing until the summer. With the exception of an oc- 
 casional sigh from the man, there were no signs of 
 grief; our mourners ate, drank, and were merry, and no 
 one would have supposed they ever had wife, mother, ^r 
 sister. When the three days, and it is singular that 
 such should be the time, were expired, the man was to 
 visit the grave ; and having talked with his wife, all duti^ 
 were to be considered as over. The 28th was our third day, 
 but a heavy northerly gale and the thick drift prevented oui 
 c5 Q 
 
114 PARllY'S SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 visiting the grave. The 29th, although not fine, was more 
 moderate, and I accompanied him at an early hour. Arriving 
 at the grave, he anxiously walked up to it and carefully 
 sought for foot- tracks on the snow, but finding none, re- 
 peated to himself, " No wolves, no dogs, no foxes, thank 
 ye, thank ye." He now began a conversation which he di- 
 rected entirely to the grave, as if addressing his wife. He 
 called her twice by name, and twice told her how the wind 
 was blowing, looking at the same time in the direction from 
 whence the drift was coming. He next broke forth into a 
 low monotonous chant, and keeping his eyes fixed on the 
 grave, walked slowly round it in the direction of the sun 
 four or five times, and at each circuit he stopped a few mo- 
 ments at the head. His song was, however, uninterrupted. 
 At the expiration of about eight minutes, he stopped, and 
 turning suddenly round to me, exclaimed Tiigwa, (that's 
 enough) and began walking back to the ship. In the song he 
 chanted I cotild frequently distinguish the word Koyenna, 
 (thank you) and it was occasionally coupled with the Kab- 
 loonas* Two other expressions, both the names of the spirits 
 or familiars of the Annatko, Toolemak, were used a few 
 times ; but the whole of the other words were perfectly unin- 
 telligible to me. 
 
 I now sent Shega and her father home, well clothed and 
 in good case. The week they had passed on board was 
 sufficient time to have gained them the esteem of every one, 
 for they were the most quiet inoffensive beings I ever met 
 with, and to their credit they never once begged. The man 
 was remarkable for his extraordinary fondness for treacle, 
 sugar, salt, acids, and spruce beer, which the others of the 
 tribe could not even smell without disgust ; and he walked 
 about to the different messes in hopes of being treated with 
 these delicacies. Shega was a timid well-behaved girl, and 
 generally remained eating in -my cabin, for I am confident 
 of speakmg far within bounds when I say she got through 
 eight pounds of solids per diem- As far as gratitude could 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE 115 
 
 be shown by Esquimaux, which is saying * koyenna* on 
 receiving a present, my friends were sensible of the attentions 
 I had shown them. 
 
 The English were informed that the corpse of Piccooyak, 
 who had died in the hospital, had been taken up by the dogs. 
 The snow-covering being the second time put over the body, 
 a second disinterment was as easily effected a day or two after, 
 and another meal made by the hungry dogs. In relating this 
 story, at which every feeling of common humanity revolts, 
 the Esquimaux pretended to be very much enraged with the 
 dogs, and let some of the gentlemen know that they wished 
 the Kabloonas would shoot them. As it was not the 
 owners of the dogs who exprescd tliis wish, and as a 
 knife was quite as effectual in killing a dog as a gun would 
 be, if applied with equal good will, they did not think 
 proper to inflict such a punishment, which, if due at all, 
 would more properly have fallen on those who made the 
 complaint. It is most certain indeed, that none but the im- 
 mediate relatives of the deceased cared a jot about the matr 
 ter; nor did the other individuals among them hesitate to 
 laugh as they heard or told the story. On some of our peo- 
 ple going out to the village, they found this Piecooyak's child 
 had died, owing probably to the misery and consequent in- 
 attention of its mother Kaga, who now lived as before with 
 the infirm aaid aged parents of her late husband. 
 
 From the morning of the •24th till midnight on the 26th 
 the mercury in the barometer was never below yO.3-2 inches, 
 and at noon on the latter day had reached 30.52 inches, 
 which was the highest they had observed it in the course 
 of this voyage. This unusual indication of the barometer 
 was followed by hard gales on the 27th and 28th, first from 
 the S. W. and afterwards from the N. W. the mercury fal- 
 ling from 30,51 inches at eight P. M. on the 26th, to 
 30.25 about five A. M. on the 27th, or about 0.26 of an 
 inch in nine hours, before the breeze came on. At midnight 
 on the 17th it reached 29.30, and on the following night 29.05 
 
116 l»ARRY'S SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 wnich was its minimum indication during the gale. These 
 high winds were accompanied by a rise in the thermometer 
 very unusual at this season of the year, the temperature 
 continuing above zero for several hours, and very near this 
 point of the scale for the whole two days. . 
 
 The mean temperature of January proved indeed as re^ 
 markable for being a high one, as that of the preceding 
 month had been in a contrary way, being only 17 ".07, or 
 more than ten degi'ees warmer than December. The first 
 fortnight in February bid fair to present a similar anomaly ; 
 the mild weather now experienced giving great hopes of a 
 winter rather favourable than otherwise, notwithstanding 
 the severity with which it had set in. 
 
 About this time they were much shocked to hear, by an ar- 
 rival from the distant huts, of the death of a young man 
 named Noogloo, the flower of the whole tribe. His com- 
 plaint, so far as they could learn, had been of some continu- 
 ance ; Toolemak, a native who considered him as his 
 adopted son, had been out to visit him two or three times, 
 and was much afflicteil by his loss. There was something 
 peculiarly shocking in the havoc which death appeared now 
 to be making among the younger and more vigorous indi- 
 viduals of this tribe* 
 
 On passing some of the huts of the Esquimaux, Captain 
 Parry entered the one belonging to the parents of Kagaj 
 the widow of the Esquimaux so much esteemed by the 
 English. They were apparently in a most wretched states 
 with scarcely any clothes, and Kaga lay moaning, covered 
 with some dirty skins. On inquiring how she was, she said 
 she was not ill, but wretched, some of the natives having 
 robbed her of almost every thing she liad, and which it was 
 understood was too commonly the practice towards the wi- 
 dow on the death of the husband. All the presents which 
 had been made to her and her husband from the ships were 
 gone, there appeared nothing to eat, and the snow melting, 
 there was a continual drip. 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 117 
 
 Captain Lyon having been made acquainted with the si- 
 tuation of Kaga, sent to fetch her and lodged her in his ca- 
 bin, and every endeavour was used for her recovery. Per- 
 ceiving the wretched state in which widows are left, it sug- 
 gested itself to him to endeavour to promote a matrimonial 
 union between Kaga and Takkeelikkeeta ; the latter how» 
 ever appeared so greatly to lament the loss of his late wife 
 that no such intimation could be made unto him ; and fur- 
 ther experience showed Kaga to be void of those feelings 
 which could induce a disposition to render her any service. 
 
 In the mean time the place for the reception of the sick, 
 into which the Esquimaux also were admitted, began so to 
 swarm with lice as to render it necessary that the sick be- 
 longing to the ships' companies should be removed, or the Es- 
 quimaux no longer admitted into it. Captain Parry therefore, 
 resolved to build a place expressly for the reception of the 
 jEsquimaux. Having suggested this to the officers, ar- 
 rangements were made ^vithout delay to erect a separate 
 dwelling for the natives, and an house was quickly erected 
 for their accommodation. Mr. Edwards and Mr. Skeoch 
 <UTanged every thing necessary to be attended in the raa- 
 iiagement of this infirmary, and Mr. Hooper provided a stock 
 of sea-horse meat for their support. 
 
 It appeared by a girdle worn by the mother of the young 
 inan Toolooak, that they killed a great number of deer 
 This girdle was adorned with twenty-nine ears of that ani- 
 mal, all which had been killed by him in the course of last 
 summer. 
 
 Although these people had not been discovered in many 
 acts of thieving, yet it occasionally occurred, and it was 
 manifest that their desire of possesing many of the articles 
 which the ships' stores presented to their view, oftentimes 
 became irresistible. An old woman whom they had known 
 at Winter Island, having been suspected by Mr. Skeoch of 
 stealing a silver thimble out of his cabin, a few days previ- 
 ous, now brought the thimble backe telling him that finilhig it 
 
118 parry's second VOV.\(iK 
 
 too small for her finger, she had Iioiicslly brougnt it hack 
 and reqviestejd some present in return. 
 
 Party feeling and petty animosities appeared to iniliienco 
 the Esquimaux as powerfully as these sensations are mani- 
 fested among Europeans. The different families were as 
 envious and ill disposed towaids each other as thougli they 
 were hostile nations, and envy of each others prosperity was 
 not disguised among them. Mr. Hooper having been to the 
 huts to purchase food for the sick Esquimaux in the hospital 
 was asked by one of the patients of whom he had obtained 
 it, and having named the pers»m, the sick man declared he 
 would on that account partake o( none of it. No reply was 
 made to this declaration, and after a few days the angry 
 patient received the food offered to him without making fur- 
 ther inquiry. 
 
 They had among them a number of peculiar customs. 
 A sick person was cautious not to see another sick persou 
 unless it were a Kabloona or European. Any resscl or cup, 
 out of which a sick person drank, must be used by no other 
 person, so that in taking care of the sick Esquimaux by 
 the English, each individual had separate utensils. So 
 particular was one of them, that he would not take the water 
 which came from the great boiler, but a lamp was obliged 
 to be kept burning for his use. The powers of prejudice and 
 the force of imagination cannot but be noticed in these cir- 
 cumstances, that a people so filthy in their habits should have 
 such strong objections to matters of no manner of importance, 
 as to be able to resist the strong and jjowerful claims of their 
 voracious appetites, which on all other occasions appeared 
 to have the supreme ascendancy. 
 
 Under such repeated calls for the exercise of their humane 
 endeavours to alleviate the sufferings of these people, it may 
 readily be supposed that the medical gentlemen and officcis 
 had their time greatly occupied in their attendance on them. 
 Indeed their patient and persevering attention and endea- 
 Tours to alleviate the sufferings of these people deserves the 
 
TO THE NOUTH POLE. 119 
 
 highest commendation. The seemingly want of gratitude 
 and thankfulness, the dirty and filthy state of their persons, 
 added to other circumstances of a repulsive character, re- 
 quired an effort of some force on the part of those attending 
 them, to enable them to persevere until their patients were 
 in a convalescent state. 
 
 , About the middle of February meat began to be very 
 abundant in the village. Several sea-horses were killed, as 
 well as a number of bears. A youth who had accidently met 
 with a severe wound in his leg, and was taken into the hos- 
 pital to be cured, manifested the strength of his appetite by 
 eating four, five, and even six pounds of solid meat as his 
 daily allowance. It may well be supposed that a people 
 taking such quantities of food, however abundantly supplied 
 on some occasions, would often be in a state of want, in a 
 country where their resources were drawn from the sea, or 
 from catching the wild animals which occasionally visited 
 them. 
 
 By way of proving what quantity of food these people 
 would take, on one occasion a lad was treated with as full 
 a supply as he was disposed to eai during the day, the quan- 
 tity being measured out to him. The following are the par- 
 ticulars, lbs, oz. 
 Sea-horse flesh frozen .44 
 Ditto boiled . . .44 
 Bread and bread-dust . 1 12 
 
 10 4 
 
 The proportion of liquids was 
 Rich gravy-soup . 1| pint 
 Raw spirits . . 3 wine glasses 
 Water . . .17 pints 
 Strong grog . . 1 tumbler 
 In the secluded situation of the Esquimaux, in a climate 
 where the earth admits of no cultivation, or at least scarcely 
 any, uneducated and without the means of obtaining know- 
 
120 parry's second voyage 
 
 ledge, all the happiness of these people appears to centre m 
 the indulgence of their gluttonous appetites ; and to such a 
 degree, that they gratify this disposition although the pros- 
 pect in future days may be the want of any food whatever. 
 
 In the course of the long stay which the ships made among 
 the Esquimaux, some idea was endeavoured to be con- 
 veyed to them of the population, climate, productions, and 
 civil government of the nations of Europe and ol Great 
 Britain in particular. But it was with great difficulty their 
 minds were brought to conceive the various ranks and sta- 
 tions which different persons filled in civilized society : all 
 importance in their idea was to be measured by the riches 
 which each possessed. The ships they supposed to be the 
 respective property of Captain Parry and Captain I^yon, 
 and were consequently distinguished by the appellation ot 
 Lyon-oomiak and Parry-oomiak. Upon the same principle 
 they supposed the boats to belong to other individuals of the 
 ships ; and were full of astonishment when informed that 
 the ships and boats, and all they contained, belonged to one 
 person, who had also a great number of other oomiaks, both 
 larger and more valuable than these ; that it was by his order 
 they now paid this visit to them. 
 
 One of these Esquimaux, named Ewerat, who possessed 
 a much superior understanding to most of his countrymen, 
 Was shown a chart, and the distance and situation of Great 
 Britain, and many other countries, pointed out to hiin, as 
 well as the space occupied by his own countrymen. He 
 was soon led to estimate their comparative size and distance, 
 and his astonishment was expressed by an emphatical hei-ya, 
 which is their word of astonishment and admiration. After 
 having pointed out these circumstances, he and his wife were 
 asked if they would be willing to leave their country and 
 friends and go with the English to their country. To this 
 they most readily assented, and expressed the highest gra- 
 tification at the prospect of seeing those wonderful thing* 
 and places which had been presented to their attention 
 
# 
 
 i 
 
t^wf 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 121 
 
 As those who had been sick recovered any measure of 
 Ileal th, they manifested the greatest impatience to be again 
 ranging abroad in the open air ; so that by too great ex- 
 ertions they sometimes brought on a relapse, and it was only 
 by agreeing to their wishes under certain conditions and re- 
 strictions, that they were in most instances manageable in 
 these circumstances. 
 
 About the middle of March, two families of the Esqui- 
 maux left Igloolik and moved to the southward, where they 
 said the walrusses were more abundant, arid before the end 
 of the month many more families took their final departure. 
 These removals could not arise from a want of the opportu- 
 nity of procuring food, but is the consequence of habit, and 
 the disposition of all uncivilized people to roam about and 
 change their habitations. 
 
 The state of the weather was now such that the ships* crews 
 engaged in a variety of games on shore. Cricket, quoits, 
 and other sports occupied some hours every day, and both 
 officers and men found the cheering effects of being more 
 abroad. 
 
 On the 21st the wife of another of the Esquimaux died. 
 She had been brought to the hospital a few days preceding 
 in a very weak state, and died without a struggle. As she 
 was on the point of expiring, she took the hand of Mr. Skeoch 
 and pressed it to her lips as expressive of the gratitude she 
 felt for the attention he had paid to her during her sickness. 
 Her husband also manifested much thankfuhiess for his at- 
 tention to her. A very short lime before she died, the 
 husband fetched two of his sons who were then on board the 
 ships, to see their mother, and on her expiring they all 
 burst out into crying and lamentations for a few minutes, 
 and then left the spot apparently as cheerful as ever. Her 
 husband now dressed her in her clothes, and she was sewed 
 up in a hammock, leaving her face uncovered. On the day 
 following she was buried, the body bemg placed on a sledge 
 and drawn by two men to i*ie place o*" interment When it 
 
192 parry's second yoyage 
 
 was put into the grave, some staves were placed across to 
 prevent any w^eight resting upon it, and he then threw on 
 large slabs of snow. Having thus finished his duty, he per- 
 mitted the English to throw on it a quantity of stones and 
 earth. 
 
 The difference in the weather between day and night be- 
 gan to evidence itself in a small degree as early as the mid- 
 dle of March, but the return of the light of the sun, and the 
 change from almost constant darkness to almost constant 
 day was that which the English beheld as the most cheer- 
 ing circumstance. Only a few weeks after the first re-ap- 
 pearance of the sun, there was twilight during the whole of 
 the night. 
 
 In the first week in April, Captain Lyon paid a visit to a 
 village of the Esquimaux situated at a considerable distance 
 some miles to the westward of Tern Island, It consisted 
 of a few huts comprehending about thirty persons. The 
 captain travelled on his sledge, drawn by dogs. These peo- 
 ple had been vei^ successful in catching young walrusses 
 and seals, and two young men among them were in a state 
 of debility, which, from the inquiries he made, Captain Lyon 
 imputed to excessive eating. 
 
 Other parties of the Esquimaux were settled in opposite 
 directions. Their huts were built upon the ice near the land 
 and the open water to give them the opportunity of catch- 
 irg walrusses. In his return on his sledge to the ships, 
 Captain Lyon was obliged to trust himself entirely to the 
 dogs, a heavy snow having fallen, and it drifting with the 
 wind, they were not able to distinguish any objects at a dis- 
 tance. 
 
 llie month of April being the season when the seals ge- 
 nerally produce their young, the natives were continually 
 upon the watch to kill them. They caught the young ones 
 in abundance, after first killing the mother, by hookin;^ 
 them up with a staff. They usually produce two young-, 
 forming a kind of cavern under the ice. The skius were 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 1^3 
 
 hvoug^ht to the ships for the purpose of haiter, and those of 
 th<" young seal possessed the feel and texture of raw silk. 
 
 On the 15th of this month died Mr. Alexander Elder, 
 Greenland mate of the Hecla, of the dropsy. He had been 
 twice before on the expeditions for the discovery of a Norih- 
 we^t passage, and had been promoted to his present situa- 
 tion in consequence of his faithful and attentive services on 
 former occasions. His death was much regretted both by 
 oiiicers and seamen. He was buried near the observatory 
 with all proper decoram, and a heap lof stones, with a head- 
 stone, was placed over his body. 
 
 About this time large flocks of ducks visited this island, 
 but the open water where they werc to be met with wiis loo 
 fur distant to enable the people to shoot any of them. 
 
 It had long been in the contemplation of Captain Parry 
 what would be the proper mode of proceeding as soon as 
 the weather should liberate the ships from their winter slii- 
 tion. The stores on board the two ships he considered as 
 inadequate to the support of the crews, were they to remain 
 anollior winter frozen up in this northern climate, and the 
 effort for further discovery would probably be inefi'ectual ex- 
 cepting the attempt was persevered in so far as to lender 
 such circumstances more than probable. He therefore con- 
 sidered that it would be practicable for only one ship to 
 make the attempt, and that the Fury should take as much 
 provisions and stores as might be necessary out of the Hecla, 
 and Captain Lyon should return with her to England. By 
 this means also he would have the o^iportunity of staling to 
 the Lords of the Admiralty all their past efforts, and thereby 
 they might make any alterations in their puipose of sendnig 
 the vessel which was to meet them in Beerings Straits. On 
 all these matters he consulted with Captain Lyon, who coin- 
 cided in opinion with him. 
 
 Having thus determined, Captain Parry made known his 
 intentions to the ships' comjianies after divine service on the 
 SSOth of April j and at the same time an invitation was 
 
124 parry's second voyage 
 
 given 10 the seamen of the Hecla to enter on board the Fmy, 
 as he intended to increase the number of men on board liia 
 ship beyond the complement originally appointed, A re- 
 moval of provisions and stores also immediately commenced, 
 and an exchange was made with the Hecla of the mora 
 serviceable anchors, boats, and cables. In about a fortnight 
 the removal of stores to the Hecla was completed, by means 
 of the Esquimaux dogs, who performed the whole service ol 
 the removal, none of the crew being called on to convey the 
 stores from one ship to the other ; and it excited the astonish- 
 ment of the ships' companies to observe with what ease and 
 expedition the dogs performed this service. Some idea may 
 be formed of the value of the services of these animals when 
 it is stated, that nine of them drew a body of stores weighing 
 sixteen hundred and eleven pounds from the Hecla to the 
 Fury, being a distance of nearly half a mile, in about nine 
 minutes. In this manner the dogs laboured for about eight 
 hours each day until the removal was completed. 
 
 By the end of April the thawing of the snow of which the 
 Esquimaux huts were composed, rendered the abodes of 
 these people the most uncomfortable that can be conceived, 
 the floor being constantly wet. They were necessitated also 
 to place skins over the openings which the melting of the 
 snow occasioned in their roofs. Several of the families also 
 now began to remove ; some to another part of the island 
 and others to some small island at a distance. The ships 
 now began to enjoy the comfort of opening the hatches every 
 day to admit the fresh air, a luxury they had not enjoyed for 
 the last six months. 
 
 The rapidity of the change of the temperature of the at- 
 mosphere could not but be noticed by every individual, and 
 the earth exhibited also the most evident tokens of the rapid 
 approach of the summer. Instead of one unvaried white ap- 
 pearance, there were to be seen large dark patches of land 
 with multitudes of caterpillars. 
 
 To expedite the thawing of the ice round the shi[)S, and 
 
TP THE NORTH POLE. 123 
 
 to open a passage tx) the sea, the sledges drawn by the dogs 
 were employed to carry sand from the shore. A distance of 
 great part of a mile was thus covered, and of the width of 
 more than twenty feet, that by this means the ice might be 
 more quickly dissolved. 
 
 At this period Captain Lyon went out on a shooting ex- 
 cursion to a point of land called Arlagnuk, accompanied by- 
 some of the Esquimaux. He met with considerable success, 
 killing a great number of king-ducks, which the natives 
 collected in their canoes. Finding their success so great, 
 shooting parties were established in the neighbourhood ac- 
 coinpanied by the small boats from the ships, as they found 
 the Esquimaux wert> in the practice of keeping back many 
 of the birds which were shot on these occasions. In a few 
 days this party brought to the ships a supply of one hundred 
 and twenty ducks as well as other game, and the whole was 
 dispersed among the ships' companies. 
 
 Captain Lyon at this time undertook a journey to the 
 shores of the Polar Sea, with a view to obtain information 
 respecting those parts which the ships had been prevented 
 from approaching in consequence of the closeness of the 
 ice. It was intended by this means to form a judgment as 
 to the future movements of the Fuiy. Two persons were 
 to accompany Captain Lyon, and provisions for a month 
 were to be conveyed on a sledge. On the 7th of May the 
 captain quitted the ships, accompanied by Captain Parry, 
 who proposed travelling to a place named Quilliam Creek, 
 where they landed the next day. Here they pitched their 
 tents, and fixed their abode for the remainder of the day, 
 some of the party being affected by snow blindness, and 
 others by an inflammation of the face occasioned by the heat 
 of the sun. 
 
 On the 9th Captain Lyon went forward on his journey, 
 and Captain Pariy having been informed by one of the Es- 
 quimaux that if they proceeded to the head of this Creek and 
 broke ihiough the ice, which was about five feet thick, thry 
 
J 26 pauky's second vovagk 
 
 fliigiit catch abundance of salmon, proceeded to make th« 
 attempt. After several hours labour they obtained an open- 
 ing to the water, which instantly rose to nearly the surface 
 of the ice ; and the lines were thrown into the place, in full 
 expectation of much success, but after several hours unsuc- 
 cessful waiting", no appearance of success presenting itself, 
 they set off on their return to the ships. In their journey 
 llie party became so blinded by the snow, that it was with 
 difficulty they could direct the sledge. On the 13th they 
 reached Arlaguuk, where they found the shooting parties 
 with a large supply of ducks. 
 
 Towards the end of this month they were visited by a few 
 Esquimaux whom they had never before seen. From them 
 they learnt that they had seen several Kabloona (Europeans) 
 ships employed in killing whales ; and from the description 
 of the rout it was supposed they came from some part of 
 the western coast of Baffin's Bay. They stated that two 
 ships like the Fury had been driven on shore by the ice, and 
 the people escaped in their boats, a fact which has since 
 been confinned by the account of the Dexterity of Leith and 
 the Aurora of Hull having been wrecked in the month of 
 August 18*21, about the latitude of 72 degrees. It cannot 
 but be remarked that the Esquimaux nation appear widely 
 dispersed, and no doubt are sometimes carried out to sea by 
 the breaking off of the field ice, which may account in some 
 measure for this circumstance. The following is a fact of 
 very recent date. 
 
 Account of the remarkable preservation of two Esquimaux 
 belonging to the Christian Congregation at Hopedale, one 
 of the settlements of the Moravians on the Labrador coast, 
 who were carried out to sea on afield of Ice, and for nine 
 days driven about at the mercy of the waves. 
 
 Peter, Titus, and Conrad, three Esquimaux, went to an 
 island in the open sea called Kikkertarsook, their usual 
 spring place for catching seals. While on a large field of 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 127 
 
 ice watcnmg for their prey, and drawing near the edge, 
 they found cracks in the ice in several places. Suddenly 
 the part on which they stood was dislodged by the wind and 
 broke away from the land. Conrad turned his sledge into 
 a kind of raft by tying skins and seals* bladders to it, and 
 contiived to paddle to the hrra ice, using a seal javelin as a 
 rudder. It was agreed that he should procure a kayak or 
 l)oat and come to their assistance ; to procure which he 
 hastened with all possible speed, but when he returned to 
 the spot a south-west wind had Ciirried them so far into the 
 open sea that they could hardly be discerned, and to follow 
 them was impossible. 
 
 Conrad now proceeded to the families of the two unfortu- 
 nate men to make known unto them the afflicting circum- 
 stance ; and the distress which it gave them may perhaps be 
 better imagined than described, when to their inexpressible 
 joy and satisfaction^ on the ninth day after they had ]>een 
 driven out, they arrived in a sledge. The account they 
 gave was, that the size and strength of the field of ice was 
 such as to afford them the means of building a snow-house 
 upon it, about six feet in height, in which they took shelter 
 during the night and when it rained. They had caught 
 eight seals on the day of their departure, which afforded 
 thom nourishment, and they drank the blood. During five 
 days there was so thick a fog that they could not see which 
 '.vay they were driven, but at length they saw land through 
 the fog, and coming among the drift ice they examined it 
 u> enable them to judge of the possibility of escaping over 
 it. At this time tlie field ice on which they were sustained 
 a violent shock, and a large portion of it broke off. Upon 
 thi^i they left it, passing over the drift ice, and notwith- 
 standing the hazardous situation both of them got safely to 
 land. 
 
 On the 24th of June Captain Parry with Mr. Crozier and 
 two seamen, accompanied by Toolemak, one of the Esani- 
 maux, and his wife, set out on a journey to the fishing plan** 
 
1128 PARKY S SECOND roYAGK 
 
 Tfie whole party travelled on sledges drawn by dogs, and 
 went the distance of forty miles the first day. It was ad- 
 mirable to notice the laborious efforts of the dogs, who went 
 the whole distance without food, it being the custom of these 
 people to feed them only once a day, and that in the evening. 
 
 On the following day as the party were passing near to 
 some piles of stones, which manifestly had been collected 
 together for some purpose, Tooleraak's wife suddenly fell or) 
 her knees and began to cry loudly and bitterly, in whicli 
 she was also joined by her husband, and they both shed 
 abundance of tears. This continued for a few minutes, 
 after which they resumed their usual spirits. On being 
 asked the cause of this ceremony, Toolemak said that this 
 place had been their residence in the summer, and the spot 
 on which his wife knelt had been where a son had formerly 
 slept, but who was since dead. This incident may serve to 
 shew the power of habit on the feelings, as their sorrow wa? 
 to all appearance suicere, and having thus given it expres* 
 sion, they resumed their former character. 
 
 The party proceeded to the head of the inlet, and then 
 Avalking two miles over land came to a river which they 
 were told was to be their fishing place. Having pitched 
 their tents, they set forwards on the ice, and making holes 
 through it, which was several feet in thickness, let down 
 the lines. The fish-hooks of these people were composed of 
 an iron hook fixed into a piece of ivory. This hook is co- 
 vered with a piece of blubber, which is tied on with a sinew. 
 The rod is made of a small piece of wood, or bones, with 
 which the line is kept constantly moving. All things being 
 prepared, Toolemak's wife went to the holes and pronounced 
 a few words, to which her husband added an expression or 
 two which had reference to his European companions. Tlieir 
 success however was very trifling, as they caught only one 
 fish after two days waiting. In consequence of this ill suc- 
 cess, they made a kind of fish-gig; and fixing it to the en<l 
 of a pole, and using bait to attract the fish, they soon 
 
TO THE xNORTH POLE. ^129 
 
 caught several salmon ; and while some were thus engaged, 
 others of the party killed a deer. 
 
 The party continued to pursue the sports of hunting and 
 fishing until the second day of July, when they returned; 
 but purposing to send Mr. Crozier with another paity to 
 procure a further supply of fish and deer, they left the tents 
 and other articles buried under stones. During their stay 
 at this place a considerable change had taken place in the 
 state of the ice, large pools of water having been formed 
 where there was no appearance of a thaw as they passed a 
 few days before. They reached the ships on the second of 
 July, and found Captain Lyon and his paity were returned 
 after an unsuccessful effort to penetrate over land to the 
 westward. He made the following report of his journey. 
 
 " On the 9th separating from Captain Parry, we pro- 
 ceeded in a S. S.E. direction over what appeared a level 
 plain, while on the right our view was bounded by rugged 
 mountains of granite. As we advanced the weather gradu- 
 ally thickened, and a heavy S.W. wind accompanied by 
 small snow and drift, hid the land from us, so that we could 
 strike into no direct course for the sledge. At noon there- 
 ibre, having travelled three hours, we tented on the snow 
 to wait for better weather ; thermometer 40*. Towards even- 
 ing the snow ceased, and at six in the afternoon, we again 
 moved forward over a plain so flat that I fancied it was a 
 lake, until by accidentally breaking through the deep crust 
 of snow which covered it, we saw moss and grass. At 
 thirty minutes after eight the weather thickened, but before 
 it did so we were enabled to observe that the low land ran for 
 several miles in a southerly direction. The granite moun- 
 tains at this part assumed a more rounded form, and were 
 entirely covered with snow. Having travelled in the course 
 of this day above eight hours, S.S.E., we tented for the 
 night on the snow. A heavy gale with thick snow and 
 drift continued to render us very uncomfortable at the tem- 
 perature of 25°. 
 
 ft R 
 
130 PARKY *bSi:CONl> VOYAGE 
 
 ** This severe weather continued until five in the after- 
 noon on the 10th, when the snow ceased, but the sky was 
 so cloudy, and the view so limited, that we remained com- 
 pletely in the dark as to our road. D etermining however to 
 attempt to make some westing, we ascended some high 
 and rounded hills in nearly a west direction. The recently 
 fallen snow was so deep that the dogs were buried to their 
 bellies, and even our snow-shoes were but of little assist- 
 ance to us. A flock of seven ducks passed us flying to the 
 south-west. After two hours' extreme exertion we reached 
 the summit of the smooth hills, and thence was a chain of 
 mountains lying immediately across our path at about three 
 miles distant* 
 
 " Heavy snow and calm weather obliged us to tent on 
 the hill, which, on clearing away the snow for a sleeping 
 place, we found to be covered with shingle limestone on a 
 bed of yellow marl. Thermometer, at ten in the evening, 
 20°. Heavy snow all night ; and on the 11th it still con- 
 tinued to fall thickly until thirty minutes after three in the 
 afternoon, when clearing a little, I determined on at- 
 tempting to pass through a small opening in the mountains 
 about W. S.W. of us. The snow which had now fallen 
 with but little intermission for two days and nights was 
 so deep, that we proceeded very slowly and with great la- 
 bour, and the mountains were as completely covered as in 
 the middle of winter. After two hours' toil in ascending a 
 steep hill we arrived on what we conceived was good table 
 land, when we suddenly found ourselves on the brink of a 
 precipice, and a chain of mountains extending from north 
 to S. E. On stopping the sledge it sunk so deep in a wreath 
 of snow that all our efforts to move it were in vain ; the 
 dogs were quite overcome, and we were quite at a stand. 
 We therefore unloaded it and threw away about one hun- 
 dred weight of such things as could be spared, after which 
 about half an hour's labour extricated it. When reloaded it 
 overset, and I was almost tempted to abandon it, fox I '?'"'^'' 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 131 
 
 how impossible it was for even an unloaded man to climb 
 the snow-covered and steep mountains west of us. I how- 
 ever resolved at last on returning' to the low land, and by 
 tracking along the foot of the hills, look out for the first 
 opening to the westward. Seven hours' travelling over the 
 plain brought us to the foot of a mountain which I had ob- 
 served to bear about S.E., and here we tented* 
 
 " A heavy snow-gale confined us to the tent during the 
 12th and 13th, and a part of the 14th ; a few minutes' sun at 
 noon on the 13th, (the first time we had seen it since leaving 
 Captain Parry,) gave me. an opportunity of obtaining the 
 meridian altitude ; and on the 14th by sights for the chrono- 
 meter, I obtained the longitude. Lat. 69^ 15' 6." Long. 1" 11' 
 50" W. ofHecla. 
 
 " At five in the afternoon on the 14th, we proceeded in a 
 south-easterly direction along the foot of the rocky hills. 
 On the snow, which was very soft, we saw a bear's track, and 
 on a patch of shingle found several sea-shells* Five hours 
 travelling brought us to the end of the chain of hills, and 
 from this point we saw the ship with a glass about N.E., 
 twenty miles. I had for sometime suspected that we had 
 taken the wrong route, as no Esquimaux could have passed 
 with a sledge over the mountains at whose feet we had been 
 travelling; I had however better hopes at this place by 
 seeing the hills become lower and trend to the south-west- 
 ward, which answered in a great measure with the Esqui* 
 maux's description of the land they passed over. At the foot 
 of this point lay a narrow lake of about three miles in length, 
 and near it was a small but deep craggy ravine^ On the 
 shingle ridges we saw several Esquimaux circles, and a 
 golden plover passed us on the ^ving. Travelling hence 
 about three miles southerly, we tented on the snow, the wind 
 being at N.W., and the night extremely cold. 
 
 " The morning of the 15th was thick and cold, and the 
 N. W. wind was unabated. Soon after noon we proceeded 
 in a westerly direction, but without having a fixed rule U> 
 
132 parry's sfmond voyaoe 
 
 guiile us. In this manner we travelled for two hours, when 
 the weather clearing we saw the hills turning to the south- 
 ward, to which direction we altered our course ; and having 
 gone forward for two hours more, tented on the snow for a 
 short time as two of the dogs were so fatigued as to be 
 scarcely able to walk. In fact the whole of them were 
 much distressed, for they were not accustomed to land tra- 
 velling, and the depth of the snow always caused the sledge 
 to hang as a dead weight. At nine in the evening, having 
 rested, we proceeded and travelled until one in the morning 
 on the 16th, when we tented on some flat rocks on which we 
 procured abundance of water, which luxury we had hitherto 
 enjoyed but sparingly. We here saw some small plants of 
 saxifrage in blossom. 
 
 " The morning of the 1 6th was mild and fine, but towards 
 noon wind and sleet came strong from the westward : as our 
 snow-shoes required repair and our feet were much blistered, 
 I took advantage of our being on a good dry rock to refresh 
 ourselves and dogs. We saw a fox, two plovers, and seve- 
 ral buntings. Deer tracks were numerous and recent, but 
 the howling and fighting of our wild and restless dogs quite 
 drove the animals away from us. 
 
 *' In the evening we advanced, and following the direction 
 of the mountains on our right, made a south-easterly course 
 over a large lake of about ten miles in length by one to four 
 in breadth, on the shores of which in some places the ice 
 was pushed up in high transparent hummocks : we saw some 
 wolf tracks, and a few plovers, knots, and sandlings. One 
 deer passed at a distance. At this place there was not an 
 eminence in any direction which was without some piles of 
 stones plaxjed by the Esquimaux hunters. Turning the 
 hills to the S. S.W. we passed over low but exceedingly 
 rocky ground, amongst which the snow was continually knee 
 deep, and the poor dogs were so e? hausted that we were 
 obliged to stop on a little rock in a lake at the foot of the 
 mountains. The whole day had been so cloudy and thick 
 
TO TUb iXORTPl POLE. )3S 
 
 that we h*ad no idea of what kind of country lay beyond us. 
 The snow was literally covered by deer-tracks, and we saw 
 three of these animals, but the dogs frightened them 
 from us. 
 
 " A fresh easterly wind was blowing on the 17th, which 
 was very cold. In order to obtain a view amongst the 
 mountains, I walked out, accompanied by one of the men, 
 for nine hours, and we got about eight miles south of the 
 tent to the top of the highest place we could find. From 
 hence we saw about fifteen miles over other mountains 
 extending from north to south-east, while on the left the 
 ;il>pearance of low land was unaltered. On our return, we 
 killed a doe, of which I gave the better half as a refreshment 
 to the dogs. At half past two in the afternoon on the 18th 
 we started south-east about eight miles over a lake to a low 
 point, at which we were obliged to tent for the night, in 
 conse(iuence of a heavy snow-storm which prevented our 
 seeing half a mile in any direction. While tenting, a large 
 buck walked slowly past us, and was killed ; of this animal 
 we gave two thirds to the dogs. 
 
 " The night was bleak and tempestuous, and we found 
 on the morning of the 19th that the snow had fallen some 
 inches in depth, and the whole country round us was co- 
 vered. Towards noon it ceased snowing, but the piercing 
 cold gale was unabated, and drift flew in clouds. Soon af- 
 ter two in the afternoon we quitted the point for another, 
 which still bore about south-east, at which we arrived, after 
 passing over a very flat plain or lake for about seven miles. 
 The snow was here firmer than we had found it of late, and 
 the mountains formed a bight of about four miles in depth 
 on our right. From this point a distant part of the range 
 bore south, and promised to turn to the westward, as we-< 
 could see nothing beyond it ; we in consequence proceeded 
 briskly for it, and had travelled six miles, or half way, 
 when we saw it take a sweep to very distant hills, south- 
 ear.t. All my hopes of makirg westing now ceased, and I 
 
134 parry's second voyage 
 
 was aware that nothing could be done m this direction, 
 which certainly was not the route crossed by the natives 
 in their passage to the Western Sea. I therefore struck 
 from off the plain to the foot of the high land about three 
 miles on our right, where we tented, and I determined 
 on waiting till the gale should moderate, when I could 
 retrace my steps to Quilliam Creek, and from thence pro- 
 ceed, if the season would permit, in some other direc- 
 tion. 
 
 " The north-east gale continued during the fore part of 
 the day, yet I should have set out but for the severe pain 
 it caused our faces, and its influence on our snow-shoes, 
 which it sometimes turned quite aside and almost tripped us 
 up. Four large white birds, with black-tipped wings, 
 passed at some distance. In the afternoon we started, and 
 travelling eight hours over the snow, which was somewhat 
 hardened by the gale, reached the little rocky isle on which 
 we had passed the 17th. 
 
 " The wind was unabated on the 21st: at three in the af- 
 ternoon we started, but were soon detained by one of the 
 dogs slipping his harness and giving chase to a couple of 
 deer, which he pursued with great spirit to the hills, where 
 he soon disappeared, regardless of all our cries to stop him. 
 At the expiration of a couple of hours, and when we had ad- 
 vanced two or three miles, giving him up for lost, we saw 
 him tracking our footsteps, and he soon came up much fa- 
 tigued. We travelled nine hours on this day, yet very slowly, 
 for I had sprained my foot amongst the rocks some days be- 
 fore, and it had now become very toublesome. Soon after 
 midnight we arrived and tented at the place where we slept 
 on the 16th ; deer were abundant, and a buck was shot near 
 the tent. We this day saw four brent-geese and several 
 flocks of ducks. 
 
 " As my leg was swollen and painful, I determined on rest- 
 ing for the day, which was warm but gloomy, the thaw pro- 
 ceeding very rapidly. With the exception of saxifrage, I 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 135 
 
 observed no plant in bloom, but the glasses and mosses wore 
 luxuriant, and promised abundant provision to the vast 
 quantities of deer which we continually saw. In fact, such 
 was their number, that had we been employed as a shooting-, 
 instead of a travelling party, we might have procured enough 
 to supply both ships constantly, were they not too distant for 
 the conveyance of the venison. 
 
 " The 23rd was fine and very warm, which softened the 
 snow so much that the snow-shoes sunk several inches at 
 e^ery step. Starting at five in the evening, we travelled for 
 * nine hours over a still deeply-covered plain, in order to reach 
 the point whence we had seen the ships ; we here found the 
 valley quite flooded, and the ravine beginning to run. While 
 we were tenting, we saw a fox prowling on a hill-side, and 
 heard him for some hours after, in different places, imitating 
 the cry of a brent-goose. The night was cold, and we felt 
 it very sensibly after the most sultry day I ever remember 
 to have seen in this country ; our faces and hands smarted 
 most severely and were much swollen by the scorching of 
 the sun. The 24th was also a very hot day, and I found 
 the country so universally flooded that I gave up al^ ifloa 
 of proceeding for Quilliam Creek, and determined during 
 the night to make for the ships. When the evening cooled 
 we proceeded over the plain, and wading, rather than walk- 
 ing, through deep snow and water for eight hours, arrived at 
 four in the morning on the 25th at the sea-side, about eight 
 miles to the south-west of the ships. Here we gladly tented 
 and rested ; Dunn killed a brown and ash coloured crane who 
 pitched near us. 
 
 " Starting at four in the morning, on the 26th, we waded 
 for eight hours to the ships, and when amongst the hum- 
 mocks, about a mile from the Hecla, were so completely 
 buried in the wet snow, that we were obliged to make a signal 
 for assistance, as we were too much fatigued to clear the 
 sledge. A party was sent, and with their help we amved on 
 board at noon. 
 
136 PA Kiev's SECOND TOVAfiE 
 
 " We had now obtained sufficient proof that no passage; 
 was practicable in a southerly direction to the sea, and had 
 also learned by experience the extreme difficulty of carrying 
 a sledge over land, even to so fine a team of dogs as mine. 
 That some other way might be found to obtain a view of the 
 Western Sea, I was yet in hopes ; but it was not possible to 
 pass over land at this time, from the state in which the 
 thawing had left the snow. A more advanced period of the 
 season might perhaps be more favourable ; but even a walk- 
 ing party, laden with tent and provisions, would make but 
 little progress over the mountains." 
 
 In the beginning of July the ice appeared to be rapidly 
 dissolving. The space which had been covered with sand, 
 and which had obtained from the crew the name of the canal., 
 was covered with water to the depth of eighteen inches, and 
 there was every reason to expect a speedy breaking up of 
 the ice in that direction, and a liberation of the ships. There 
 was however a distance of several miles beyond this canal 
 Avhich was still entirely frozen, but which it was hoped and 
 expected would be so dispersed by the end of the month as to 
 afford a passage for the ships into the open water. 
 
 The success of the shooting parties at this time was very 
 considerable, upwards of two hundred ducks having been 
 killed in the course of one week - 
 
 A considerable party of Esquimaux, whom they hud never 
 before seen, paid the ships a visit at this time. They came 
 from Cockbum Island and from places to the westward of 
 Igloolik, The distance they stated to be from six to eight 
 days journey. These people confirmed the statement of 
 former Esquimaux as to the two ships which had been 
 wrecked, and one man was afterwards met with who had 
 some of the boards belonging to the wrecked vessels. 
 
 As this circumstance excited a strong feeling among the 
 ships crews. Lieutenant Hoppner offered to accompany a 
 party of the natives who were about taking a journey north- 
 ward, with a view to obtain more satisfactory information 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 137 
 
 ds to the wrecked ships, and also to ohtain a more correct 
 knowledge of the shores of Cockburn Island. As the at- 
 tempt was likely to produce some interesting information, 
 Captain Parry acceded to his offer, and appointed three of 
 the ship's crew to accompany him, and foiu* of the best dogs 
 were to convey the baggage. 
 
 On the fourth of July Lieutenant Hoppner, having heaixi 
 that a party of the Esquimaux intended to set out on the 
 following morning, went with his people who were appointed 
 to accompany him, to their village, that they might be in rea- 
 diness to go with them ; and accordingly the next day he 
 proceeded in company with almost the whole of the natives, 
 as not more than two or three visited the ships after this 
 time. The following is his narrative of the journey. 
 
 " We left the ship at fifteen minutes past eleven in the 
 evening on the 4th, and arrived at the Esquimaux tents about 
 five in the morning. The Esquimaux were all asleep, but 
 being disturbed by the noise of our arrival, they flocked 
 round us to know the cause of so early a visit. Our inten^ 
 t ion of accompanying them seemed to afford great amuse- 
 ment, and many jokes were passed apparently at our expepse. 
 Having rested about two hours, we were disturbed by the 
 whispers and stifled laugh of the women and children j and 
 on going out found the tents all struck, the men aheady 
 gone, and every appearance of the paity, with whom we in- 
 tended to travel, having fairly given us the slip. This unex- 
 pected departure somewhat embarrassed us ; but we imme- 
 diately prepared to follow them, and were relieved from our 
 anxiety by finding they were still at the edge of the ice. Per- 
 ceiving we were really in earnest, and that our dogs, of which 
 they had only a few wretched animals, were likely to be of 
 use to them, Erichiuk sufi'ered us to place the loads upou 
 his sledge. We left Keiyuk^tarruke at thirty minutes pa^t 
 nine, in company with lour other sledges ; and after clear- 
 ing the grounded hummoeks, travelled at a good pace in a 
 north-easterly direction. When we got about five milef 
 
from Igloolik, the water became knee deep on tlie ice, which 
 rendered! walking extremely fatiguing. The men and several 
 of the women dispersed themselves in all directions in pur- 
 suit of seals ; whilst the sledges were left entirely to the 
 management of the females, who remained by them. Our as- 
 sistance soon became necessary, and before the end of the day 
 we quite gained their favour. It was at first the intention 
 of the men to go to Tern Island to collect eggs, but about 
 seven in the evening the weather assuming a threatening ap- 
 pearance, they determined to encamp on the ice. The num- 
 ber of stoppages, and the winding course which we made to 
 pick up the seals left by the hunters, rendered the day*s 
 journey extremely fatiguing and unpleasant, particularly as 
 we suffered a good deal from cold. After travelling abmit 
 twenty miles, we at length halted at thirty minutes past 
 seven in the evening. As we had nothing but our blanket- 
 bags to place between us and the ice, Erichiuk kindly fur- 
 nished us with staves procured from the ships, with which 
 we floored the tent, and passed the night much more com- 
 fortably than we had anticipated. The encampment was 
 formed on a small dry ridge of ice, almost the only spot iiee 
 from water that we had seen during the afternoon. In con- 
 sequence of their success, the Esquimaux passed the evening 
 feasting on raw flesh ; only one or two taking the trouble to 
 light their lamps. 
 
 " The weather being fine on the 6th, we broke up the 
 encampment at thirty minutes past seven in the morning, and 
 travelled about fifteen miles in a N. N.E. direction. The 
 hunters of both sexes again dispersed themselves, many seals 
 were killed merely for their skins, and the carcases left on 
 the ice, after being deprived of the entrails, of which the 
 Esquimaux seemed particularly fond. At seven in the 
 afternoon we landed on the north shore, and pitched our te^t 
 on a rocky point in the midst of the Esquimaux encamp- 
 ments Tlie women brought us some roots of the potevtilla 
 pulehella, which they had pulled whilst collecting dwarf- 
 
TO THE NORTR POLE. ^139 
 
 willow foT their fires, and which had a pleasant flavour, rc- 
 strnbling" liquorice, but not so sweet, lliey seemed fond of 
 it, and had brought in a considerable quantity, which they 
 ate without cleansing irom the soil. Nearly all the women 
 had large kettles full of seal's flesh boiling outside of the tents j 
 when it was ready the master of the tent announced it by 
 three loud shouts, to collect the rest of the men to partake of 
 it. They had scarcely linished one before another was ready, 
 to which they were again summoned ; and in this manner 
 they kept up the feast until a late hour. 
 
 " On the 7th the weather was gloomy with light rain oc- 
 casionally. The Esquimaux remained at home all day, most 
 of them being laid up with snow blindness. No intelligence 
 coidd be gained relative to their future movements ; the 
 women, who are always the most communicative, seemed 
 to know nothing ; and tlie men were either heedless of our 
 inquiries, or very unsatisfactory in their answer. Ihc land 
 gradually rose behind our tents to hills of considerable height, 
 well clothed with herbage, and seeming likely to afford 
 game ; but after a long walk we saw only a few deer- tracks, 
 two grouse, and some ducks, all so wild that it was imjx)8- 
 sible to get near them. From the top of a hill about three 
 miles N.E.bE, from the tents, we saw a wide expanse of 
 ice, bounded by high land to the noi-thward, apparently about 
 the same distance as Neerlo-naktowas from us. Its eastern 
 point, which seemed low, bore E. N.E., and was nearly in a 
 line with the north point of the easternmost of the Calthorpe 
 Islands. Onr view to the westward was bounded beyond 
 N.W. by the land we stood on, which however did not ap- 
 pear to approacli that seen to the northward. A strait, about 
 three miles in breadth, and of the same length, separatetl 
 the land we were on from the Calthorpe Islands. Tiiis 
 channel was clear of ice, appeared deep, and had a strong 
 tide or current setting through it to the southward. I en- 
 deavoured to learn from the Esquimaux whether the land 
 joined to tlie westward and formed a bay, but was un»uc- 
 
no iPAURY'n SECOND YOYAOfi 
 
 cessfulm my inquiries. This inlet was named after CapUiin 
 Sir Murray Maxwell, of the Royal Navy, In the evemng we 
 visited the tent of the old man from Toonoonek. He was an 
 Angetkok or jugler, and seemed fond of exhibiting his skill. 
 He sat with his arms drawn out of the sleeves of his jacket, 
 and apparently folded over his breast, but in reality era- 
 ployed his fingers tapping Upon the skins he sAl on. This 
 noise I was told was made by his Tomga* or spnit, and a 
 great many questions were put to him by the bystanders ; 
 these were answered by tapping in a particular manner, and 
 the sounds were then interpreted by the craft of the old 
 Angetkok. 
 
 " On the 8th neatly all the men went oUt sealing, accom- 
 panied by some of the women regularly equipped for the 
 hunt. Our people returned in the evening with the carcass 
 of a deer ; they had been ten or twelve miles to the west* 
 ward, in which direction they said the land improved in ve- 
 getation ; but the few living creatures which they saw wei e 
 as wild as those in the vicinity of the tents. 
 
 " Tlie weather being very inclement on the 9th, confined 
 every body within the tents. In the afternoon there was a 
 dance at the Angetkok's, where nearly the whole party was 
 assembled. The old man opened the ball by a perfoimancvi 
 which seemed a medley of conjuring and dancing ; several 
 other men stood up after him, and last of all his son : when 
 he had finished, most of the company retired, upon which he 
 rushed into the tent, and seizing his youngest wife by the 
 hair beat her severely. She seemed at first inclined to resist, 
 and took Up a tin-pot, as if intending to throw it at him ; he 
 immediately kicked her out of the tent, and struck her se- 
 veral heavy blows with a walrus tusk. His other wife, fear- 
 ing what was to follow, had placed her chihl in her hood* 
 as if to protect herself from the wrath of her husl>fuid. Hav- 
 ing satisfied his vengeance on the young one. he rushed in 
 ^gain, and snatching the child away, beat the other poor 
 tV'omaQ in a most barbarous manner over the head with some 
 
TO TIIF, NORTH FOLE. l4l 
 
 heavy weapon which he had snatched up on liis entrance. 
 She never spoke, and although streaming with blood, 
 scarcely attempted to defend herself from his fury. Having 
 continued to use her thus for some minutes, one of the mt:n 
 present held his hand, upon which he quietly seated himself 
 and remained sulky the rest of the evening. The woman 
 retired soon after with her child some distance from the tent, 
 where I found her giving vent to her feelings by the most 
 piercing cries. Two or three women stood round her, who, 
 having satisfied their curiosity, left her without shewing the 
 slightest symptom of pity* The only cause we could dis- 
 cover for this brutal transaction was, because they had not 
 sung when their husband was dancing. He took no notice 
 x)f it at the time ; but appeals to have meditated revenge 
 whilst seemingly wrapt up in his amusement. In the even- 
 ing we found a small party assembled in the same tent to 
 hear the different spirits whom the Angetkok wtis going to 
 send into their presence. He came in soon after, and taking 
 his station behind the screen, descended after previously 
 l)utting a few questions to the bystanders. The performance 
 differed very little from Toolemak's. Ten torngas rose in 
 succession, some of whom did not confine themselves to 
 speaking alone, but scratched and thumped against the 
 skin behind the person addressed. The Angetkok's wife sung 
 dui ing the ceremony, but appeared to take little interest in 
 it, and when her duties permitted, directed all her attention 
 to us. 
 
 " The weather was dull on the 10th, with occasional fogs. 
 About ten in the morning there appeared a general move 
 amongst our Esquimaux friends. On inquiry it appeared 
 that four families were going to the eastward, whilst the party 
 to which we were attached intended to remain another day, 
 and then continue their jouvricy towards Toonoonee-roocliiuk. 
 Having gone out with our guns, the Esquimaux men of our 
 party took advantage of our absence and set off for Tern Is- 
 land to collect eggs; carefully concealing their intentions 
 
142 
 
 from us lest we should propose to accompany them, ll was 
 not until they were nearly out of sight that they told iht? 
 man, who remained to look after our tent, where they were 
 going, the idea of having deceived us seeming to afford tnem 
 much amusement. 
 
 " The early part of the 11th was hazy; towards noon it 
 cleared away and became fine. We had felt rather cold dur- 
 ing the night, which was the first we had found at all un- 
 comfortable. Our men went away to the westward in pur- 
 suit of deer ; before they left the tent they informed me, that 
 the women had mentioned their intention of continuing their 
 journey next day towards a station where they procure fish. 
 I made inquiries, but could hear nothing ; and as it ap- 
 peared from their previous conduct that they were unwilling 
 to acquaint me with their designs, I directed the men to ga- 
 ther all the information they could. It was now become evi- 
 dent that they did not intend going direct to Toonoonec- 
 loochiuk ; but as I conceived a longer stay with them might 
 furnish something interesting, I determined on it ; more es- 
 pecially as the distance to Igloolik was greater than we could 
 conveniently travel without diminishing our loads. I'lie 
 Esquimaux returned in the evening with a h\v seals, some 
 ducks, and a gieat many eggs. They had emptied the 
 latter out of their shells into walrus bladders, containing each 
 between two and three gallons. They gave us two ducks and 
 lialf a dozen eggs, an act of generosity of which they seemed 
 to think highly, but with which we were by no means satis- 
 fied, after being disappointed of a trip to the island, where we 
 migiit have collected some for ourselves. 
 
 " We remained stationary on the 12th, the Esquimaux 
 stating that their dogs were too lame to travel. They bu- 
 ried most of their tin pols and iron hoops, which looked as 
 if they intended returning soon. One of the women excited 
 our attention by the ingenuity she displayed in mending a 
 tin kettle which she had procured from the ships, and which 
 had become unsoldered. She i)aid little attention to our in- 
 
TO THE NORTH POLK. 143 
 
 etructions, and at length completed the task, in her own way, 
 by suspending the kettle over the flame of the lamp, and 
 chopping pieces of solder obtained from the rim of a meat 
 canister, which when melted she spread with a spike-nail 
 over the joint. In the evening we were diverted by Koo- 
 eetseearioc, who went through the whole ceremony of raising 
 Tornga. My men put up a screen, behind which he went 
 after some persuasion, and performed the whole of his part 
 with great skill, particularly the diving scene, where he ma- 
 naged his voice so well that it roally appeared to come some 
 distance from under ground. It would seem from this that 
 the art is not difficult, and that, from the ridicule with which 
 they seemed to treat it, they were not imposed on. The 
 old people alone seemed to pay respect to the Angetkoks, 
 while the young ones invariably treated their mysteries with 
 contempt. 
 
 '* At half-past ten in the morning on the 13lh, we quitted 
 this station, which by the mean of five meridian altitudes is 
 in lat. 69" 42' 29", and by the mean of seven sets of observa- 
 tions for the chronometer, in long. 00° 46' 22" E. of the ships' 
 winter statioji. The ice was so full of cracks and holes that 
 it was with difficulty the sledge could proceed, and it was 
 only enabled to stand the heavy shocks it received by the 
 looseness of its construction. Two large seals being seen on 
 the ice, the sledges stopped while two of the Esauimaux 
 went in pursuit of them. It was full two hours before they 
 got close to one of them, which they effected by crawling 
 feet foremost towards the animal ; one man lying concealed 
 behind the other who, by scraping on the ice with his spear, 
 and moving his feet in imitation of a sears-flipper, deceived 
 the animal until they got within six or seven yards of it. They 
 then remained stationary some time as if to accustom the 
 seal to them ; when at length the nearest man, springing on 
 his feet, darted his spear, which however striking a bone did 
 not take effect. Notwithstanding the quickness of the move- 
 ment, the anim?! was half down the hole before the spear 
 
iu parry's second toyaqe 
 
 (juitted the iiiaij*s han(L At four o'clock, having advanced 
 about fourteen miles along shore to the westward, the party 
 stopped at a rocky point, where they signified their inten- 
 tion of remaining some days. A few miles to the westward 
 a low point ran out vrith several small islands off it# Beyond 
 tliis point was an extensive opening, which the Esquimaux 
 represented to be a bay which they go up on their route to 
 Toonoonee-roochiuk. Dunn joined us about an hour aftei 
 our arrival, with the intelligence of having killed a deer five 
 or six miles to the westward. By promising the Nerooka 
 a part of the deer, before mentioned by Captain Lyon 
 as considered a great delicacy by these people, a sledge 
 was easily procured, upon which my two men went, accom- 
 ])anied by one of the Esquimaux, to bring it in. Our 
 provision being nearly expended, I desired the men to 
 endeavour to bargain with their companion for his sledge 
 to carry us to Neerlonakto ; whilst I also endeavoured to 
 lure one in the event of their failure. In the evening 
 l^jviehiuk and some others had a long conversation about 
 the ships going to Toonoonee-roochiuk, an event they 
 seemed very anxious to bring about. He persisted in say- 
 ing it was practicable for them to go by a western route ; 
 and as he still continued positive after I had explained to 
 him that we found the Strait blocked up by ice last summer, 
 I concluded that he alluded to some other opening which 
 the formation of the land precluded us from seeing at pre 
 sent. 
 
 " The man who had promised us his sledge the preceding 
 evening, now refused it, because we did not immediately 
 comply with his demands for the deer's sinews. In conse- 
 quence of this I determined, if he persisted in his refusal 
 next morning, to construct a light sledge with our boarding- 
 pikes to cairy our baggage, which by this time was becom© 
 tolerably light. 
 
 " On the receipt of the sinews and some of the flesh how- 
 ever, he was again willing^ to lend his sledge the follmvin^ 
 
' TO THE NORTH POLE. 145 
 
 day; we tlierefore prepared to move immediately after 
 breakfast. The latitude of this statioa by one meridian 
 altitude was 69^ 46^ 12* N., the longitude, by means of 
 two sets of sights for the chronometer, was 00** 34 42" east 
 of the ships. The Esquimaux seemed sorry to depart from 
 us, a feeling rendered reciprocal by the kindness which 
 they had uniformly shewn us. It is but justice to say that 
 I never experienced more attention in my life, and that 
 their whole conduct towards us seemed expressive of a 
 grateful feeling for the advantages which they had derived 
 from their intercourse with the ships. Our party was in- 
 creased to six by two of the natives joining us just as we 
 were starting. The ice was tolerably smooth and had but lit- 
 tle water on it, so that my men, who walked more than two- 
 thirds of the way, did it without fatigue, and at half an 
 hoiur past six in the evening we landed on Neerlonaktoo. 
 Our companions, who had volunteered to carry us to the 
 ships, were anxious to proceed, but compassion for our 
 poor dogs would not suffer me to hear of it. Although 
 these people were kind and attentive to us, they did not 
 think it necessary to extend this feeling to our dogs, which 
 were become very lame, nor would they even supply us with 
 a piece of skin to make boots for them, without demanding 
 an exhorbitant price. Whilst on Neerlonaktoo we saw three 
 deer and great numbers of geese and other water fowl, but 
 they were so shy that all our attempts to get near them were 
 ineffectual. 
 
 ^' Leaving the island at forty-five minutes past eleven, on 
 the I6th. we arrived on Igloolik at twenty minutes past 
 one. Having loaded our own clogs, the Esquimaux left 
 theirs moored to a stone, where they were to remain with« 
 out food until their return ; and walking across the island 
 we reached the ships at four in the afternoon.'* 
 
 The ice continued daily, though slowly, to dissolve, and 
 there still was a distance of nearly five miles from the ships 
 to the open sea. The hope of extricating the ships there* 
 
 P. V. 7. n 
 
146 parry's second voyage 
 
 fore depended on the probability of some of those cracks 
 taking place, which they had often witnessed, and which 
 made an immediate clearance of the ice. While waiting in 
 this expectation, on the 21st of July Captain Parry dis^ 
 patched Lieutenant Hoppner once more to examine a bay 
 or river of Cookburn Island, which had not been explored. 
 He was accompanied by two of the crew, and provided with 
 a sledge and dogs. On his return he made the following 
 report of his journey. 
 
 " At a quarter past four we left the Hecla, and having 
 reached the head of the bay at half-past six, the party who 
 were there in readiness carried the sledge across the istb> 
 mus ; after which they returned to the ship. ^ The fog was 
 now so thick that it was impossible to proceed towards Neer- 
 lonaktoo, we therefore kept along the land-ice of Igloolik, 
 when supposing ourselves nearly abreast of the fornix is- 
 land, we went on shore to wait for better weather. 
 
 " Thick foggy weather continued until four in the afternoon 
 on the 22nd, when, it becoming clearer, we recommenced 
 our journey, passing between Neerlonaktoo and three small 
 whitish islands off its south-west end, which at a distance 
 are easily mistaken for hummocks of dirty ice. The ice 
 afterwards began to improve ; but we were obliged by se- 
 -veral wide cracks extending from Neerlonaktoo to the 
 west land and the islands in Richards's Bay, to go some 
 distance round to find parts sufficiently narrow to cross. 
 At eleven in the evening we pitched our tent on the north- 
 east island in Richards's Bay ; the ice was so much broken 
 up all round it that it was with difficulty we landed. 
 
 " On the 23rd it rained hard all night, with thick hazy wea* 
 ther, which did not clear away until noon the following day. 
 We immediately prepared to move ; but it was twenty-five 
 minutes past one in the afternoon before we got away, owing 
 t:o the time taken up in shoeing the dogs, which for two peo- 
 ple was a tedious operation. We stood directly over towards 
 the north land, finding the ice so bad for the first six or 
 
TO THE MORTH POI-K. il47 
 
 Heven miles as to make it reasonable to expect that a very few 
 days would render it impassable. Towards the centre of the 
 strait it became very good, and continued so until we got 
 near the north shore, where we found it in nouch the same 
 state as on the opj>osite side* Several of the cracks ex- 
 tended from land to land, and were so wide as to cause us 
 much perplexity in crossing them. At a quarter past nine 
 we landed on a low sandy beach, which forms the south-east 
 point of the opening we saw to the north.- west, when <>n our 
 former journey with tite Esquimaux^ 
 
 " On the 24th the weather diiring the early part of the day 
 wtis tolerably fine, but in the afternoon became foggy, with 
 heavy showers of rain. The dogs being a good deal fagged, 
 1 determined to give them a day's rest, expecting we should 
 be able to ascertain the extent of the inlet oafoot. Having; 
 waited without success to get the meridian altitude, 1 walked 
 up the inlet, and crossing the two first points of land, 
 picked up a piece of fresh skin, which convinced me that 
 our friends the Esquimaux had not much the start of us. 
 A high mount on the south-side, about twelve or fourteen 
 Hiiles distant, becoming a very prominent object, 1 made 
 towards it, hoping from thence to see the termination of the 
 inlet, which here varied from one to three miles in breadth. 
 At five in the afternoon, finding the hill above-mentioned 
 still too distant for me to reach on foot, 1 lauded on the 
 right-hand shore, from whence the opening appeared to ex- 
 lend at least a day's journey for the sledge, continuing 
 about the same breadth and not appearing to terminate even 
 at the furthest point seen. After resting a short time, I 
 returned towards the tent, determining, if our people had 
 killed any thing which would furnish a supply of food for the 
 dogs, to run up with the sledge next day, and if possible 
 reach its termination. Having walked about five miles back, 
 I discovered an Esquimaux tent on the north side, which 
 being pitched behind a point had escaped my notice on pass- 
 ing up, and which proved to belong to some of our old 
 
 U 2 
 
148 parry's second voyage 
 
 friends. As the want oi" food for the dogs had made me 
 fearful we should be obliged to abandon our object before 
 its acconaplisbmeut, I immediately bargained with them for 
 a supply, promising to Tisitthem the next day. They had 
 a few pieces of very ftne looking fish drying on the rocks. 
 After stopping with them about ten minutes, I took nay leave, 
 and, on reaching the point next above our tent, faund that 
 the rest of the Esquimaux had arrived during mv absence. 
 " At twenty minutes past twelve on the 25th we struck 
 our tent and proceeded up the inlet, stopping a few minutes 
 at the first point, where we purchased some meat for the 
 dogs, and got the promise of a seal on our return. At three 
 in the afternoon we arrived at the tent of Erichiuk, from 
 whom we purchased some more meat and a very tine sal- 
 mon. The Esquimaux told us we might reach the bead of 
 the inlet to-day; we therefore left one of our dogs which 
 was lame in Erichiuk's charge, and resumed our journey, 
 with the intention of lightening the sledge at the first con- 
 venient place. At four in the afternoon, having reached 
 two small islets situated nearly in mid-channel, we buried 
 whatever we could spare, to ensure the accomplishment of 
 our object; and having stopped half an hour to refresh our- 
 selves, we set off at a quick pace. The weather was so 
 thick that it was but very rarely we got a glimpse of the 
 shores on each side of us ; when we did, they seemed rocky 
 and steep ; but a short distance from the beach the land ap- 
 peared well clothed with vegetation. As we advanced the ice 
 became very thin and rotten, and gave indications of our 
 approach to its termination : at length, about hall' past nine, 
 we found ourselves within fifty yards of the water, and were 
 obliged to pick our way to the shore over a very rotten sur* 
 face. On landing we were gratified by the sight of a noble 
 sheet of water, a mile and a half in breadth and perfectly 
 fresh. The tide was out, but there was no current percepti- 
 ble in the middle, nor did we notice any during the whole 
 time of our stay. The Esquimaux had informed us of a 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 149 
 
 large fall, but as we n€itber saw nor heard any thing of it, 
 it must be a good way higher op, our point of view extend- 
 ing full fifteen miles, when it terminated in two bluff points, 
 between which the stream seemed to wind. To these points, 
 to all appearance, it continued about the same breadth, and 
 trom the colour of the water it roust be deep enough for 
 ships of large burden. The land on each side was high,, 
 and where we stood was more closely covered with vegeta- 
 tion than any spot we had ever seen in these regions. The 
 dwarf willow grew to a height and size almost entitling it to 
 be called a shrub, and Andromeda tetragona was in the 
 greatest abundance. 
 
 *' On the 26th 1 sent one of my men to the top of a high 
 hill behind our tent, but his view from tlience was not more 
 extensive than what we had already procured. After stop- 
 j)ing to get the meridional altitude, which gave the lat. 70" 
 06^ 42^' N., the longitude, by chronometer, being 0° 31^' 48^ 
 W. of the ships, we set out on our return. As the ice was 
 broken up for two miles below us, we endeavoured to get 
 on the solid floe by a narrow neck about one hundred yards 
 broad ; but having got half way, it proved so thin and rot- 
 ten that 1 considered it better to return, than to run the 
 risk of crossing it. The dogs dragged the sledge along 
 sphere until we came to the firm ice, performing their task 
 much better than we expected. We now returned down 
 the river, and, having picked up (he things left on the is- 
 land, arrived at the Esquimaux tents at half-past eight. 
 They received us very kindly, assisting us to unload the 
 sledge and carry the things to the top of the hill. We pur- 
 chased of them some very fine salmon, which they caught 
 in a small rivulet emptying itself into a bay about a quarter 
 of a mile from the tents. 
 
 " The 27th proving a fine day, the men all went out 
 with their fishing- spears at high-water, but returned in a 
 short time, saying there were no fish, from which it is pro- 
 bable that they only come here occasionally, resorting at 
 
150 PARRY*S SECOND VOYAGB 
 
 other times to other places of the same description, with 
 ■which the river abounds. The latitude of this station is 
 70° 0' 13" N. ; longitude, by chronometer, 0** 5' 40" W of 
 the ships. We left our friends about one io the afternoon ; 
 they continued civil to the last, although the temptation to 
 rob us was too great to resist. This, however, they did in 
 a sly sort of way, removing things from where we had 
 placed them, with the idea, perhaps, that we should not 
 miss them until we had taken our departure. On tasting 
 the water at this station, which is not more than seven or 
 eight miles from the mouth of the opening, it proved nearly 
 fresh. We kept close along the north shore, passing over 
 Tery bad ice, with cracks extending across to the eastern 
 part of the strait. It appeared only to want a strong breeze 
 from the westward to drive it out, as it was quite detached 
 from the land. At nine in the evening we landed on a small 
 rocky island, the easternmost of a group about fifteen miles 
 from the spot where we left the Esquimaux on our former 
 journey. From this point 1 could see that the land was 
 connected ; as the only part which had been doubtful was 
 in a bay formed by the north-eastern point of the river, and 
 another about five miles westward from our present station, 
 where (the land being rather low) there was an appearance 
 of an opening; this day's journey, however, proved the 
 continuity of the coast. Our time being limited, I did not 
 think it worth while going any farther to the eastward ; but 
 as the dogs would require a day's rest previously to carry- 
 ing us over to Igloolik, I determined to remain here until 
 the 29th for that purpose. 
 
 "The weather was so thick, that it was not until past 
 ten on the 29th that we left the north land, and at seven 
 arrived on the west end of Neerlonaktoo, where we stopped 
 for the night, our dogs being too much tired to proceed. 
 We found the ice in coming over far better than I expected. 
 It was however separated from both lands by wide cracks, 
 and did not average more than two feet in thicknuss as far 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 151 
 
 a8 I could judge ; it appeared nearly in the same state as 
 last year at this season. 
 
 " Leaving Neerlonaktoo at half-past eleven on the 30th, 
 we reached Igloolik at two in the afternoon. The ice be- 
 tween the two islands was almost impassable for a sledge 
 in some places, but the pools were all frozen over, for the 
 first time, during the night. We found great difficulty 
 in landing on Igloolik, the ice having broken up into de- 
 tached pieces along its shores. In getting the sledge across 
 from one end to the other, we were frequently near losing 
 it, the dogs having to swim across several of the spaces be- 
 tween the broken pieces of ice. Having crossed the isth- 
 mus, we got sight of the ships and arrived on board about 
 four in the afternoon.'* 
 
 They had now entered upon the month of August, yet 
 the ships were so comj)letely surrounded with ice as to pre- 
 clude all approaches to the open water, excepting that 
 around the ships to a small distance there was an open space 
 of water. Captain Parry therefore resolved, arduous as 
 was the attempt, to endeavour to saw a passage through 
 the ice to the sea, a distance of nearly five miles, and with 
 this view a tent was pitched for the ships' company to take 
 their meals in. On the third of the month, however, the 
 ice opened to within a mile of the ship, so that the sawing 
 might be proceeded on with a greater prospect of success, 
 and the following day near four hundred yards of ice were 
 ctit through. In effecting this the crew endured much fa- 
 tigue, and the ice often breaking several of the men fell 
 into the water. One of them very narrowly escaped drown- 
 ing, being at such a distance as that help could not be rea- 
 dily afforded him. 
 
 The prospect of being liberated from the ice being proba- 
 ble, the parties which had been appointed to fish and 
 obtain provisions were called in. The boats had a narrow 
 escape one day in attacking a herd of walrusses, the 
 
162 parry's rbcond voyage 
 
 lYOunded ones attacking them with their tusks and steve 
 one of the boats in several places. 
 
 The circumstance of the season being so far advanced as 
 to afford a very short space for attempting further discove- 
 ries, induced Captain Parry 'to reconsider his purpose of 
 remaining another winter in these climates with the Fury 
 only* The state of health of several of the officers and 
 crew appeared also to have undergone a considerable 
 change ; and the effect of a third winter might be of too 
 9^i<His consequence to admit of his proceeding, without 
 first taking the opinion of the medical gentlemen as to its 
 probable effects. Impressed with these sentiments, be ad- 
 dressed a requisition to them desiring their opinion under 
 all the circumstances, and received from Mr. Edwards the 
 following reply, with which in substance that of Mr. Skeoeh 
 coincided. 
 
 *' During the last winter and subsequently, the aspect 
 of the people of the Fury in general, together with the 
 increased number and character of their complaints, strongly 
 indicated that the peculiarity of the climate and service was 
 slowly effecting a serious decay of their constitutional 
 powers. The recent appearance also of several cases of 
 incipient scurvy in the most favourable month of the year, 
 and occurring after a more liberal and continued use of fresh 
 animal food than we can calculate upon procuring hereafter, 
 are confirmatory proofs of the progression of the evil. 
 
 " With a tolerable prospect of eventual success, other 
 circumstances remaining unchanged, I should yet expect 
 an increase of general debility, with a corresponding degree 
 of sickness, though at the same time confident of our re- 
 sources being equal to obviate serious consequences. But con- 
 sidering the matter in the other point of view, namely, as a sin- 
 gle ship, it assumes a much more important shape. It is not 
 necessary that I should dwell on the altered circumstances in 
 which the crew would then be placed, as they are such as you 
 
. TO THE NORTH )POLE. 153 
 
 must long ago have foreseen and weig'hed. I allude to the 
 increase of labour and exposure resulting from the separation 
 of the vessels, the privation of many salutary occupations, 
 mental and corporeal, attending their union, and, I may 
 add) at this late period of the season, the hopelessness of 
 the success of the ensuing navigation being such as to excite 
 feelings sufficiently lively to counteract those depressing 
 causes. It is impossible, in fact, to reflect on the subject 
 and not to apprehend a less favourable result than might be 
 expected under the preceding conditions." 
 
 On the 8th, the ice moved around the Fury, which mak- 
 ing sail, got into open water. The ice around the Hecla 
 however, though agitated at first, did not move out of the 
 bay, and she still remained beset. Captain Parry however 
 determined to occupy the time in an examination of the 
 strait which closed their operations the preceding year. On 
 arriving at the place, a most hopeless prospect presented 
 itself, as the ice was attached to the shores on each side, 
 and from the mast-head they had a distinct and extensive 
 view of one solid piece of ice as far as the eye could see to 
 the westward up the strait. 
 
 Being fully satisfied of the impracticability of a passage 
 this way, the Fury returned towards Igloolik to rejoin the 
 Hecla, who on the 0th was driven to sea, on the ice break- 
 ing, in the middle of a floe in the most perilous manner. 
 She was thus driven over shoals, in an unmanageable state, 
 but fortunately escaped without any accident. 
 
 In addition to the report of the medical officers. Captain 
 Parry requested the opinion of Captain Lyon as to the pro- 
 priety of pursuing the attempt of further discovery, and 
 received the following reply. 
 
 " As I consider the health of your crew as of most im- 
 portance in every point of view, I shall in the first place 
 state that, independently of the weighty opinions of your 
 medical officers, it has for some time been my opinion that 
 the Fury's passing a third winter in this country would be 
 
 P. V. 7. X 
 
164 PARRY*S SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 extremely hazardous. I am induced thus to express myself 
 from the great change I have observed in the constitution of 
 the officers and men of the Hecla, and by the appearance of 
 some severe cases of scurvy since the summer has com- 
 menced ; 1 am also aware that the same scorbutic syiiiptoms 
 have been noticed, and do still exist, in the Fury. 
 
 " Our long continuance on one particular diet, almost 
 total deprivation of fresh aniinal and vegetable food for 
 above two years, and the necessary and close confinement 
 for several months of each severe winter, are undoubtedly 
 the causes of the general alteration of constitution which 
 has for some time past been so evident. I therefore con- 
 ceive that a continued exposure to the same deprivations 
 and confinements, the solitude of a single ship, and the 
 monotony of a third winter to men whose health is preca- 
 rious, would in all probability be attended with very serious 
 consequences. 
 
 " When at the commencement of the last winter 1 gave* 
 it as my opinion, that the service would bebenefited by your 
 remaining out in the Fury, as you proposed, and still attempt- 
 ing a further passage to the westward, I did not anticipate 
 so long a confinement in the ice as we have unfortunately 
 experienced, and formed my opinion on the supposition, 
 and in the full expectation that we should be at liberty 
 about the first of July of this year, and that the general good 
 health which then prevailed would still continue. From 
 our being detained until the present time, however, I am 
 of opinion that the season in which it is possible to navigate 
 has now so far passed, that nothing material can be effected 
 either by one or both ships. We know from the experience 
 of last year, that it is not before the end of August or the 
 beginning of September that the ice breaks up in the Strait 
 of the Fury and Hecla, and that it is not until that period 
 that you will be enabled to re-examine its western entrance* 
 Even when you should have done so, and, as there is every 
 reasoii to expect, found it still closed, you would have 
 
TO THE NORTH PoLE. 155 
 
 barely su^cient time to return to li^loulik to pass another 
 wlnier. Again, should the sea prove open to the souHi- 
 eastward, and should you deena it expedtent to attempt, by 
 rounding the very extensive land in that direction, to tind 
 some other passage to the westward, I conceive that the 
 extreme lateness of the season would not admit of your 
 making discoveries of any importance, or at all events of 
 such importance as to warrant your passing a third winter, 
 at the risk of the safety of your officers and crew. 
 
 " Having now stated my reasons for changing my former 
 opinion, I beg to advise that the Fury and Hecla return to 
 England together, as soon as such arrangements respecting 
 the removal of stores and provisions as you may judge pro- 
 per to make shall be completed." 
 
 Considering himself not justifiable after this in continuing 
 longer in these seas, at the risk of the health and lives of 
 those committed to his charge, Captain Parry communica-. 
 ted his intentions to the officers and ships companies. Ad- 
 ditions were made to the daily allowance of provisions, and 
 the various antiscorbutics, which had been reserved for a 
 season of more exjiected emergency, were liberally issued. 
 The provisions and extra stores that had been taken from 
 the Hecla, with a view to her return to England alone, 
 were now replaced, and some other arrangements were made 
 as circumstances seemed to require. 
 
 On the 11th a flag-staff, lifty-six feet in height, wns 
 erected en the main land, agreeable to the instructions of 
 the Lords of the Admiralty, at the top of which a ball was 
 placed, formed of iron hoops and canvass, and a cylinder 
 was buried at the foot of the staff, containing a statement 
 of the ships having been here. Captain Lyon in the mean- 
 time was occupied in bringing off the boats, tents, and other 
 articles left on shore, which from the drifting of the ice he 
 did not accomplish without some difficulty. Ultimately one 
 boat was left, which being very old was not considered 
 material, especially as the wood would be very bcrviccatiie 
 
 ^ 2 
 
156 parry's second voyage 
 
 to their friends the Esquimaux. In addition to this they 
 left their sledges and a quantity of wood, spears, paddles, 
 and other articles, strewed about at a considerable distance, 
 that they might become the property of ditferent individuals. 
 
 On the 12th of August they took their final leave of Ig- 
 loolik, and the following day made the three islands called 
 Ooglit, being a considerable run in an open sea. Here they 
 saw a great number of walrusses. On the 14th several Es- 
 quimaux who had their abode in this neighbourhood paid 
 them a visit, among whom they noticed several of their old 
 acquaintances. 
 
 They continued to drift with the ice rather than to sail 
 for several succeeding days, and on the 31st arrived at their 
 old quarters off Winter Island. In this period they had 
 moved along the coast to the extent of one hundred and sixty 
 miles, of which they had not sailed fifty, the remainder 
 having been effected by drifting while beset with the ice. 
 
 As the natives of these inhospitable regions occupy so pro- 
 minent a place in the narrative, it may not be improper to 
 insert an account of the settlement of the Moravians on the 
 Labrador coast. Having established themselves in Green- 
 land, some of them were desirous of extending their settle- 
 ment, and accordingly Matthew Stach, the oldest resident, 
 in 1752 solicited the Hudson's Bay Company for permission 
 to visit the Indians belonging to the factories. His appli- 
 cation proving fruitless, some of the friends in London, 
 joined by several well-disposed merchants, fitted out a ves- 
 sel for a trading voyage on the coast of Labrador Four 
 persons went out in her, together with Christian Erhard, a 
 Dutchman, who having been engaged in the whale fishery 
 in Disko Bay, had picked up some knowledge of the Green- 
 . landic. 
 
 They set sail in May 175*2, and in July cast anchor in a 
 large bay on the coast of Labrador, to which they gave the 
 name of Nisbet's Haven, in honour of one of the owners of 
 the ship. Here they determined to fix their residence, and 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 137 
 
 erected their house which they had taken with them ready 
 framed. Erhard meanwhile proceeded with the ship far- 
 ther to the north, for the purpose of trade. He found that 
 he could make himself tolerably well understood by the Es- 
 quimaux ; but as they were afraid to come on board on ac- 
 count of the guns, he suffered them to persuade him to land 
 in a bay between the islands in an unarmed boat with five of 
 the crew. None of ihem returned, and as the ship had not 
 another boat, no search could be made for them. The cap- 
 tain, having waited several days without being able to ga- 
 ther any information respecting their fate, sailed back to 
 Nisbet's Haven, and calling on board the settlers, repre- 
 sented to them, that after the loss of his boat and the best 
 part of his men, he could not accomplish his voyage home 
 without their assistance. Under such circumstances they 
 could not refuse his request ; but they left the place with 
 regret, and consoled themselves with the thoughts of re- 
 turning in the following year. On their arrival in England 
 it was not deemed advisable to renew the attempt, until 
 intelligence should be received of the safety of Erhard and 
 bis companions ; and as on the return of the ship, several 
 of their dead bodies were discovered, and the deserted house 
 was burnt to the ground, both the trade and the mission 
 were for that time abandoned. 
 
 In 1764, Jens Haven, who had laboured for several years 
 as a missionary in Greenland, and had recently returned 
 with Crantz to Germany, proposed to resume this enter- 
 prise. With this intention, he came to England, and was 
 introduced by the Brethren in London to Hugh Palliser, Esq. 
 (afterwards Sir Hugh Palliser) the governor of Newfound- 
 land, who freely oflered him his support, and gave him the 
 necessary letters of recommendation. The governor him- 
 self arriving shortly after at his station, issued a proclama- 
 tion in his favour, which reflects no less credit on his own 
 judgment than on the disinterested zeal of Jens Haven. 
 *' Hitherto/' he says, " the Esquimaux have been consi- 
 
158 parry's second voyage 
 
 <lere(i in no other light than as thieves and murderers ; hut 
 as Mr. Haven has formed the laudable plan not only of unit- 
 ing these people with the English nation, but of instructing 
 them in the Christian religion, 1 require, by virtue of the 
 power delegated to me, that all men, whomsoever it may 
 concern, lend him all the assistance in their power." 
 
 In May of the same year he arrived at St. John's ; but 
 he had to meet with many vexatious delays, before he reached 
 his destination, every ship with which he engaged refusing 
 to land for fear of the Esquimaux. He was at length set on 
 shore in Chateau Bay, on the southern coast of Labrador; 
 here, however, he found no signs of population, except se- 
 vered scattered tumuli, with the arrows and itnplements of 
 the dead deposited near them. Embarking agiiiri, he finally 
 landed on the island of Quirpont or Quiveror, off the north- 
 east extremity of Newfoundland, where he iiad ilie first in- 
 terview with the natives. 
 
 " The 4th September," he writes in his journal, " was 
 the happy day when I saw an Esquimaux arrive in the har- 
 bour. I ran to meet him, and addressed him in Greenlandic. 
 He was astonished to hear his own language from the mouth 
 of an European, and answered me in broken French. I 
 requested him to return and bring four of the chief of his tribe 
 with hiui, as I wished to speak with them. He accordingly 
 ran back with speed, shouting out, * Our friend is come.* 
 Meanwhile, I put on my Greenland dress, and met them on 
 the beach. 1 told them, I had long desired to see them, 
 and was glad to find them well. They replied, * Thou art 
 indeed our countryman.' The joy at this meeting was great 
 on both sides. After the conversation had continued for 
 some time, they begged me to accompany them to an island 
 about an hour's row from the shore, adding, that there 1 
 sbould find their wives and children, who would receive me 
 as a friend. The steers-man and another of the crew, landed 
 luc on the island, but immediately pushed off again to see 
 at a safe distance what would become of me. 1 was sur- 
 
 .'MM!iij?ii^;4lbiyMf^ ...L^-.sfiVj^isyii 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 1^ 
 
 rounded by the natives, each of them pushing^ forward his 
 family to attract my notice. I warned them not to steal any 
 thing from our people, and represented to them the danger 
 of it. They told me that the Europeans were also guilty of 
 thieving, to which I replied, that if they would only inform 
 roe of the delinquent, he should be punished. 
 
 " The next day, eighteen of them returned my visit, ac- 
 cording to promise. I took this opportunity to assure them 
 of the friendly disposition of the British government towards 
 them, and promised that no injury should be done to them^ 
 if they conducted themselves peaceably ; I also offered them 
 a written declaration to this effect from Governor Palliser ; 
 but they shrunk back, when I presented it to them, suppos- 
 ing it to be alive, nor could they by any means be persuaded 
 to accept of this writing. They listened to all 1 said, with 
 the greatest attention. 
 
 ** In their bartering concerns with the crew, they consti- 
 tuted me arbiter of their differences ; for, said they, you are 
 our friend. They begged me to come again the next year, 
 with some of my brethren, and were overjoyed when I pro- 
 raised that I would. I told them also, that on my return, I 
 would speak to them of things which were of the greatest im- 
 portance to their happiness, and instruct them in the know- 
 ledge of God. One of them asked if God lived in the sun. 
 Another enquired, whether it would make him more pros- 
 perous in his affairs, if he believed in his Creator. I replied, 
 there was no doubt of it, if he attended to them with proper 
 <liligence ; but the happiness of a future life, was infinitely 
 preferable to present prosperity, and this might confidently 
 be expected by those who trusted in God while here, and 
 lived according to his will. When I was about to take leave 
 of these interesting people, the Angekok SeguUia took me 
 into his tent, and embracing me, said, * We are at present 
 rather timid, but when you come again, we will converse 
 fogether without suspicion.' *' 
 
 On the third day the Esquimaux left the harbour altoge- 
 
160 parry's second voyage 
 
 ther, aod after a short stay at Quirpont Haven returned to 
 Newfoundland. Sir H. Palliser and the Board of Trade 
 expressed their entire approbation of his proceedings. He 
 therefore made a second voyage in the ensuing year, accom- 
 panied by Christian Laurence Drachart, formerly one of the 
 Danish missionaries in Greenland, and two others. Having* 
 arrived at Newfoundland, they went on board his Majesty's 
 ship Niger, Captain Sir Thomas Adams, and landed July 
 17, in Chateau Bay, latitude 52°, on the south coast of 
 Labrador. Here the party separated ; Haven and Schlotzer 
 engaging with another vessel, to explore the coast north- 
 wards ; they did not, however, accomplish any thing material 
 in this expedition, nor did they meet with a single Esqui- 
 maux the whole time. Drachart and John Hill remained 
 in Chateau Bay, and were fortunate enough to have the 
 company of several hundred Esquimaux, for upwards of a 
 month ; during which period they had daily opportunities of 
 intercourse. 
 
 As soon as Sir Thomas Adams had received intelligence 
 that they had pitched their tents at a place twenty miles dis- 
 tant, he sailed thither, to invite them, in the name of the 
 Governor, to Pitt's Harbour. On the approach of the 
 ship, the savages in the kayjaks hailed them with shouts of 
 Tout camerade, oui Hu 1 and the crew returned the same 
 salutation. Mr. Drachart did not choose to join in the cry, 
 but told Sir Thomas that he would converse with the natives 
 in their own language. When the tumult had subsided, he 
 took one of them by the hand, and said, in Greenlandic, * We 
 are friends.' The savage replied, * We are also thy friends.' 
 Several of them were now admitted on board. A man in a 
 white woollen coat said that it had been given him by 
 Johannesingoak, (Jens Haven,) as a keep-sake, and en- 
 quired where he was. They invited Drachart to go on 
 shore, and the elders of the tribe, followed by the whole 
 horde, amounting to not less than three hundred persons, 
 conducted him round the encampment from tent to tent, re- 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 161 
 
 tveateclly exclaiming, " Fear nothing ; we are friends; we 
 understand thy words. Wherefore art thou come ?*' * I 
 l|ave words to you/ said he. On this they led him to a 
 ja^reen plot, and seated themselves round him on the grass. 
 
 * I came* he began, ' from the Karaler in the east, where 
 1 had lately a tent, wife, children, and servants. On hear- 
 ing this, they cried out, ^ These northern Karaler, are bad 
 people.* * I come not from the north,' returned he ; * but 
 over the great sea, from the eastern Karaler, of whom you 
 have perhaps heard nothing, as it is a very long time since 
 they quitted this country. But they have heard of you, and 
 Johannesingoak and I have visited you, to tell you that 
 tlicse Kai'aler are your friends, and believe on the Creator 
 of all things, who is our Saviour, and that they wish you to 
 know him too.* They were much perplexed by this speech, 
 which they made him repeat over and over, until, at length, 
 an old man took upon him to explain its import. * He means 
 Silla,* said he, and made several circles round his head 
 with his hand, blowing at the same time with his mouth. 
 
 * Yes,' said Drachart, * he is Silla Pingortitsirsok, the 
 Creator of the world. He has made the heaven, the air, 
 the earth, and man.* ^ But where is he ? enquired one ; 
 and, * what is the meaning of the Saviour ?* added a second. 
 Drachart using the same gesticulations which he had seen 
 the old man make, replied, * He is every where in Silla ; 
 but he once became a man, and abode many years on earth 
 to make men happy.* One of them now asked, if he was a 
 teacher ; and when he replied, that he had taught the Karaler 
 in the east, two old men, with long beards, came forwards, 
 and said that they were Angekoks. He took them by the 
 hand, and placing them before Sir Thomas, informed them 
 that he was the captain, and had been sent by a more pow- 
 erful captain to enter into a friendship with them. 
 
 Thus the conference concluded, and Sir Thomas hastened 
 back to Pitt's Harbour to make his report to the governor. 
 
 The peninsula of Labrador extends from latitude 52^ 2(/, 
 to latitude 62". But though its northern extremity. Cape 
 
 P. V. 7. Y 
 
162 parry's second voyage 
 
 Chidley, lies under the same degree of latitude with Cape 
 Farewell, the southernmost point of Greenland, the rigour 
 of the climate even exceeds, if possible, that of the latter 
 country. This is no doubt owing to the vast tracts of land 
 covered with snow and ice, or with immense forests, lakes, 
 and morasses which impart a prodigious severity to the 
 north, west, and^outh winds that blow in Labrador ; while 
 on the other hand, their chilliness is mitigated, before they 
 reach Greenland, by the intervention of Davis's Strait. 
 
 It was with the utmost difficulty that they could be in- 
 duced to visit the harbour where the ships lay. To Mr. 
 Drachart's assurances of friendship, they replied, laughing, 
 " Yes, yes, we know that you will not kill us, for you are 
 a teacher ;*' and gave him their hands in token of amity, 
 but when, after much persuasion, they had accompanied him 
 to the bay, they absolutely declined going on board the com* 
 modore's vessel, and landed on the shore. Whenever they 
 were admonished to abstain from doing any thing, their 
 first question was, " whether they should be killed for it ?" 
 They would suffer no one to examine their boats or uten- 
 sils, or to take any draught of them. When a shallop came 
 to their place of rendezvous, they would not allow the sailors 
 to come on shore with their arms ; they even endeavoured 
 to take the captain's gun, considering it as an infraction 
 of tlie peace agreed upon, to carry weapons. An Tndian, 
 in attempting to cut away a tow from a wrecked ship, was 
 perceived by a sentinel, who presented his musket, and an 
 alarm was instantly given. The savages drew their knives, 
 and set themselves in a posture of defence. One of them 
 tore open his jacket, and bared his breast, daring the crew 
 to fire. Order was, however, soon restored, and the bre- 
 thren led away the Indians to their tents. Another time, a 
 cabin-boy purloined an arrow from a kayak. A woman be- 
 trayed the theft. A concourse of natives instantly flocked 
 round him, snatched the dart from his hand, and were on the 
 point of sacrificing liim to their rage. They were deceived 
 by the promise that they should have satisfaction and the cap- 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. Jj53 
 
 tain ordered the youth to be bound and flogged in their pre- 
 sence ; but scarcely had he received two lashes, when ati 
 angekok interfered, pushed back the sailor who was entrusted 
 with the execution of the sentence, and unbound the culprit. 
 Every one admired this instance of natural and humane feel- 
 ing, thus unexpectedly developed in savages, whose hearts 
 were supposed to be as barbarous as their appearance was 
 uncouth and forbidding. 
 
 The governor wished to prevent them from- crossing over 
 to Newfoundland, where, according to their own account, 
 they procured a certain kind of wood not to be found in their 
 country, of which they made their darts. But since they 
 interpreted this prohibition as a breach of peace, it was re- 
 scinded, on their promise to c\)mmit no depredation on the 
 fishing vessels they might meet with on the way ; to which 
 engagement they scrupulously adhered 
 
 They evinced a friendly disposition and welcomed 
 Haven on his return, and praised him for being true to his 
 promise. But though they showed no signs of a hostile in- 
 tention, they were inclined to take several troublesome free- 
 doms with their visitors. Thus, in one of their tents, Mr. 
 Drachart had his pockets turned inside out. They took every 
 thing they contained, and his hat into tlie bargain ; how- 
 ever, on his appealing to the seniors of the horde, they 
 obliged the plunderers to refund their booty, even to a knife 
 which they begged as a keep-sake. The next time the 
 rogues picked his pocket, they thought proper to do it se- 
 cretly. But no sooner did the old men perceive that he had 
 missed something, than they assembled all the young sa- 
 vages in the house, and ordered the article in question to 
 be restored. The thief immediately stepped forwards, with- 
 out the least marks of shame or fear : " There," said he, 
 ** are your things ; you perhaps need them yourself." 
 
 In their frequent journies back ward and forward, between 
 the station of the ships and the Esquimaux, the missionaries 
 had to contend with formidable obstacles, having frequently 
 
 Y2 
 
164 parry's second voyage 
 
 to spend several nights together sleepless, without a mor^ 
 sel of food, and exposed, under the open air, to the rain 
 and wind. One dreadful night is thus described in their 
 journal. 
 
 " September 12. In the evening a violent storm, with 
 rain, arose. A shaUop was driven to the shore, and rati 
 a- ground on the rocks. By the offer of an ample reward, 
 we persuaded the savages to lend us their assistance in bring- 
 ing it off. Eight of them put on their sea- dress, waded 
 into the water up to the arm-pits, and toiled at it upwards 
 of an hour, without being able to set it afloat. Our ship, 
 meanwhile, wore away from the shore, and left us alone 
 with the natives. John Hill and the ship's surgeon en- 
 gaged to follow the vessel in a small boat, and make some 
 arrangements with the captain for their safety ; but their 
 boat was dashed against the ship's side by the waves, witb 
 so violent a concussion, that it overset. Fortunately they 
 caught hold of a rope which hung over the side of the ves- 
 sel, to which they clung, until those on board could draw 
 them up. Drachart and Haven now betook themselves to 
 the stranded shallop, but they were destitute of provisions, 
 and the rain fell in torrents. The Esquimaux came and re- 
 presented to us, that the boat could not possibly float be- 
 fore the tide returned in the morning, and invited us to 
 lodge for the night in their tents. We judged this to be the 
 most eligible plan we could adopt in our present situation. 
 Immediately, the angekok SeguUia plunged into the water, 
 and carried us on his back to the beach. He then led us to 
 his tent, gave us dry clothes, and spread a skin on the floor 
 for us to sit on. The tent was crowded with people. They 
 several times asked us ' if we were not afraid ;' we an- 
 swered, * We are certainly ignorant of what passes in your 
 minds, but you are our friends, and friends do not use to 
 fear each other.' To this they rejoined, * We are good 
 Karaler, and are now convinced that you are not Kabluiiat, 
 but well-disposed Innuity for you come to us without wea- 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. ' 105 
 
 pons. They set before us fish, water, and bread, whicU 
 last had been given them by the sailors, and shortly after, 
 all retired to rest. But SeguUia now commenced his incan- 
 tations, which hebegan with singing some unintelligible stan- 
 zas, together with his wives. He then muttered over some 
 charm, threw himself into every imaginable contortion of 
 body, at times sending forth a dreadful shriek, '1 his 
 hand over Drachart's face, who lay next to him ; uu-. . Jled 
 about on the ground, uttering at intervals loud, but only 
 half articulate cries, of which we could merely catch the 
 words, * Now is my Torngak come.' Perceiving that 
 Drachart was awake, and had raised himself a little on his 
 arm, as often as he extended his hand over his face, he 
 kissed it. He now lay for some time as still as death, after 
 which he again began to whine and moan, and at last to 
 sing. We said we would sing something better, and re- 
 peated many Greenlandic verses, of which, however, they 
 could comprehend but very little. It was in vain that we 
 endeavoured to compose ourselves to sleep for the rest of 
 the night ; we, therefore, frequently arose and went out of the 
 tent ; but Segullia appeared to view our motions with sus- 
 picion, and always followed us when we left the tent. In 
 the morning he thus addressed us : * You may now tell 
 your countrymen that you have lodged with me in safety. 
 You are the first Europeans that ever spent a night under 
 my tent. You have shown me, by your fearless behaviour 
 amongst us, that we have nothing to dread from you.* In 
 return for our accommodations, we distributed glass beads, 
 fishhooks, and needles, amongst his people." 
 
 The preparatory visits of Haven and Druchart cleared the 
 way for the ultimate settlement of a mission of the brethren 
 •at Nam in 1771, a grant of the land necessary for the pur- 
 pose having been obtained from the Privy Council, and for- 
 mally purchased by the missionaries from the Ksquiraaux, 
 who testified the highest gratification at the procee-img. 
 
166 tarry's second voyage 
 
 Besides the two missionaries above-mentioned, wore vwo 
 married couples, and seven single brethren, the whole com- 
 pany consisting of fourteen persons. Having taken with 
 ihem the frame of a house, they immediately began to erect 
 it, and, with the assistance of the sailors, completed it in 
 less than two months. A company of brethren in London, 
 united to send a ship annually to Labrador to supply them 
 with the necessaries of life, and to carry on some trade with 
 the natives. The missionaries also found means to be of 
 service to the Esquimaux, and to earn something for their 
 own subsistence, by building them boats, and making tools 
 and other utensils. 
 
 Somehundreds ofEsquimaux, principally of the Nuenguiik 
 tribe, attended the preaching of the Gospel during the sum- 
 mer months, but on the approach of winter they withdrew to 
 various parts of the coast. Though they were, for the most 
 part, very willing to be instructed, no lasting impiessioa 
 appeared to be made on their minds. The missionaries were 
 therefore agreeably surprised by the intelligence, that 
 Anauke, one of these savages, being on his death-bed in 
 the beginning of 1773, had spoken of Jesus as the Redeemer 
 and Saviour of men, had constantly prayed to him, and de- 
 parted in confident reliance on his salvation. " Be com- 
 forted,'* said he to his wife, who began to howl and shriek 
 like the rest of the heathens, at his approaching end, " I am 
 going to the Saviour." The brethren had been prevented 
 from visiting him during his illness by the inclemency of the 
 weather; but his happy dissolution had a favourable influ- 
 ence on his countrymen, who ever after spoke of him under 
 the appellation of, " The man whom the Saviour took to 
 himself.'* 
 
 As this settlement was found insufficient to serve as a 
 gathering place for the Esquimaux dispersed along a line 
 of coast not less than six hundred miles in extent, especially 
 as it afforded but scanty resources to the natives during the 
 winter season, when they had fewer inducements to rove 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. IGi? 
 
 from place to place, it was determined to establish two 
 other mission stations, the one to the north and the other to 
 the south of Nain. Accordingly, in 1774, four of the mis- 
 sionaries undertook a voyage to explore the coast to the 
 northward. Though they attained their object, the conse< 
 quences of this expedition were most unfortunate. On their 
 return, the vessel struck on a rock, where she remained 
 fixed till her timbers were dashed to pieces. After a night 
 of the utmost anxiety, they betcfok themselves early the 
 next morning to their boat ; but this also foundered on the 
 craggy shore. Two of them, the brethren Brasen and 
 Lehmann, lost their lives ; the other two. Haven and Lis- 
 ter, together with the sailors, saved themselves by swim- 
 ming, and reached a barren rock. Here they must inevit- 
 ably have perished, had they not found means to draw their 
 shattered boat on shore, and repair it so far that they could 
 venture into it on the fourth day after their shipwreck. The 
 wind was in their favour ; and they had soon the good for- 
 tune to meet an Esquimaux, who towed them into the har- 
 bour of Nain. 
 
 The next year. Haven and Lister, accompanied by Mr. 
 Beck, ventured to make a second voyage to the south, and 
 penetrated as far as Nisbef s Haven, where the adventur- 
 ers had first landed, and where the ruins of their house were 
 still seen. Here, after some search, they found a spot near 
 Arvertok, b€tter suited for a mission settlement, than any 
 yet discovered. 
 
 But before the directors of the missions were apprised of 
 this new station, they had commissioned Brother Haven to 
 begin a new settlement at Okkak, about a hundred and fifty 
 miles to the north of Nain. The land was purchased from 
 the Esquimaux, in 1775, and in the following year Haven, 
 with his family, and three other missionaries, established 
 themselves in the place They immediately began to preach 
 the Gospel to the neighbouring savages, and though their 
 success was not rapid, it was sufficient to animate their 
 
168 parry's second voyage 
 
 spirits. In 1778 the six first adults of this place were bap- 
 tized, aud many more were added in a short tinae. 
 
 In March 1782, two of the missionaries experienced a 
 most merciful interposition of Providence when their lives 
 were in the utmost danger. Samuel Liebiseh, one of the 
 missionaries at Nain, being at that time entrusted with the 
 general direction of the settlements in Labrador, the duties 
 of his office required him to pay a visit to Okkak, in which 
 he was accompanied by William Turner, another of the 
 missionaries. They set out on their journey in a sledge 
 driven by one of their baptized Esquimaux, and were joined 
 by another sledge of Esquimaux, the whole party consisting 
 of five men, one woman, and a child. All were in good 
 spirits ; the morning was clear, the stars shining with un- 
 common lustre, and, as the track over the frozen sea was 
 in the best order, they travelled with ease at the rate of six 
 or seven miles an hour, so that they hoped to reach Okkak 
 in two or three days. After passing the island in the bay 
 of Nain, they kept at a considerable distance from the coast, 
 both to gain the smoothest part of the ice, and to avoid the 
 high and rocky promontory of Kiglapeit. About eight 
 o'clock they met a sledge with Esquimaux turning in to- 
 wards the land, who gave them some hints that it might be 
 as well to return. As the missionaries, however, saw no 
 cause for alarm, and suspected that the other party merely 
 wished to enjoy the company of their friends a little longer, 
 they proceeded on their way. After some time, their own 
 Esquimaux remarked that there was a ground-swell under 
 the ice. It was then hardly perceptible, except on lying 
 down and applying the ear close to the ice, when a hollow 
 disagreeably grating and roaring noise was heard, as if as- 
 cending from the abyss. The sky remained clear, except 
 towards the east, where a bank of light clouds appeared, 
 interspersed with some dark streaks ; but as the wind blew 
 strong from the north-west, nothing less was expected thaa 
 a sudden change of weather. 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 169 
 
 The sun had now reached its height, and there was as yet 
 little or no alteration in the appearance of the sky. But as 
 the motion of the sea under the ice had grown more percep- 
 tible, the travellers became rather alarmed, and began to 
 think it prudent to keep closer to the shore. The ice also, 
 in many places, had large cracks and fissures, some of which 
 formed chasms of one or two feet wide ; but as these are 
 not uncommon even in its best state, and the dogs easily 
 leap over them, the sledge following without danger, they 
 are terrible only to strangers. 
 
 B ut as soon as the sun declined towards the west, the 
 wind increased to a storm, the bank of clouds from the east 
 began to ascend, and the dark streaks to put themselves in 
 motion against the wind. The snow was violently driven 
 about by partial whirlwinds, both on the ice and from off the 
 peaks of the high mountains, and filled the air. At the 
 same time the swell had increased so much that its effects 
 upon the ice were very extraordinary and not less alarming. 
 The sledges, instead of gliding smoothly along upon an 
 even surface, now ran with violence after the dogs, and now 
 seemed with difficulty to mount a rising hill ; for the elas- 
 ticity of so vast a body of ice, many leagues square, resting 
 on a troubled sea, though it was in some parts three or four 
 yards thick, gave it an undulatory motion, not unlike that 
 of a sheet of paper accommodating itself to the surface of 
 a rippling stream. Noises, too, were now distinctly heard 
 in many directions, like the report of cannon', owing to the 
 bursting of the ice at a distance. 
 
 Dismayed at these prognostics, the travellers drove with 
 all haste towards the shore, intending to take up their night- 
 quarters on the north side of theUivak ; but as they approach- 
 ed it, the prospect before them was truly terrific. The ice, 
 having burst loose from the rocks, was heaved up and down, 
 grinding and breaking into a thousand pieces against the 
 precipice, with a tremendous noise, which, added to the 
 roaring of the wind, and the driving of the snow, so con- 
 
 P. V. 8. Z 
 
170 parry's second voyagk 
 
 founded them, that they almost lost the power of seem* or 
 hearing a!»y thing distinctly. To make the land at any risk 
 was now the only hope they had left ; but it was with the 
 utmost difficulty the frighted dogs couM be forced forwards, 
 the whole body of ice sinking frequently below the surface 
 of the rocks, then rising above it ; and as the only time for 
 landing was the moment of its gaining the level of the shore, 
 the attempt was extremely nice and hazardous. By God's 
 mercy, hoivever, it succeeded ; both sledges gained the 
 land and were drawn up the beach, though witii much 
 difficulty. 
 
 Scarcely had they reached the shore, when that part of 
 the ice, from which they had just escaped, burst asunder, 
 and the water rushing up from beneath, covered and pre- 
 cipitated it into the deep. In an instant, as if at a signal, 
 the whole mass of ice extending for several miles from the 
 coast, and on both sides as far as the eye could reach, began 
 to crack and sink under the immense waves. The scene was 
 tremendous and awfully grand ; the monstrous fields of ice 
 raising themselves out of the pcean, striking against each 
 other, and plunging into the deep, with a violence not to be 
 described, and a noise like the discharge of innumerable 
 batteries of heavy guns. The darkness of the night, the 
 roaring of the wind and sea, and the dashing of the waves 
 and ice against the rocks, filled the travellers with sensa- 
 tions of awe and horror which almost deprived them of the 
 power of utterance. They stood overwhelmed with aston- 
 ishment at their miraculous escape, and even the pagan Es- 
 quimaux expressed gratitude to God for their deliverance. 
 
 The Esquimaux now began to build a snow house, about 
 thirty paces from the beach, and about nine o'clock all of 
 them crept into it, thankful for even such a place of refuge 
 from the chilling and violent blasts of the storm. Before 
 entering it, they once more tnrned their eyes to the sea, 
 which was now free from ice, and beheld, with horror mingled 
 with gratitude, the enormous waves driving furiously before 
 
TO THE NORTH VOLE. 171 
 
 tne wfml, like hu^e floating eastles, and approaching the 
 shore, where, with hideous commotion, they dashed 
 against the rocks, foanoing, and filling the air with their 
 spray. The whole company now took supper, and, after 
 singing an eveninc^ hymn, they lay dowtt ta rest about ten 
 o'clock. The Esquimaux were soon fast asleep, but Liebisch 
 could get no rest, being kept awake by the tumult of the ele- 
 ments, and suffering at the same time from a sore throat, 
 which gave him great pain. 
 
 The wakefulness of the missronary proved the deliverance 
 of the whole party from sudden destruction. About two 
 o'clock in the morning, Liebisch was startled by some drops 
 of salt water falling from the roof of the snow house upon 
 his lips. Though rather alarmed on tasting it, he lay quiet 
 till the dropping became more frequent, when, just as he 
 was about to give the alarm, a tremendous surf broke all at 
 once close to the house, discharging a quantity of water into 
 it ; a second quickly followed, and carried away the slab of 
 snow placed as a door before the entrance. The brethren 
 immediately cried out to the Esquimaux to rise and quit 
 the place. They jumped up in an instant; one of them cut 
 a passage with his knife through the side of the house, and 
 each seizing some part of the baggage, threw it out on a 
 higher part of the beach. While the missionary Turner 
 assisted the Esquimaux, Liebisch and the woman and child 
 tied to a neighbouring eminence, The latter were wrapt up 
 in a large skin, and the former took shelter behind a rock, 
 for it was impossible to stand against the wind, snow, and 
 sleet. Scarcely had the rest of the company joined them 
 in this retreat, when an enormous wave carried away tlie 
 whole house. 
 
 In this manner were they a second time delivered from 
 the most imminent danger of death ; but the remaining hours 
 of the night were passed in great distress and the u)ost pain- 
 ful reflections. Before the day dawned, the P^squimaux cut 
 a hole into a large drift of snow, to screen the woman and 
 
 Z 2 
 
172 parry's second voyage 
 
 child, and the two missionaries. Liebisch, however, could 
 not bear the closeness of the air, and was obliged to sit at 
 the entrance, where they covered him with skins to defend 
 him against the cold, as the pain in his throat was extreme. 
 As soon as it was light, they built another snow house, about 
 eight feet square, and six. or seven feet high j yet their 
 accommodations were still very miserable. 
 
 The missionaries had taken but a small stock of provisions 
 with them, merely sufficient for the journey to Okkak, and 
 the Esquimaux had nothing at all. They were, there- 
 fore, obliged to divide their small stock into daily portions, 
 especially as there appeared no hope of soon quitting this 
 dreary piace, and reaching the habitations of men. Only 
 two ways were left for effecting this ; either to attempt the 
 passage across the wild and unfrequented mountain of Kig- 
 lapeit, or to wait for a new ice-track over the sea, which 
 might not be formed for several weeks. They therefore 
 resolved to serve out no more than a biscuit and a half a 
 day to each. The missionaries every day endeavoured to 
 boil so much water over their lamp as might serve them for 
 coffee. They were all preserved in good health, and Lie- 
 bisch very unexpectedly recovered on the first day from his 
 gore throat. The Esquimaux, too, kept up their spirits, 
 and even the sorcerer, Kassigiak, declared that it was pro- 
 per to be thankful that they were still alive. 
 
 Towards noon of the second day, the weather cleared, 
 and the sea, as far as the eye could reach, was perfectly 
 free from ice ; but the evening was again stormy, so that 
 the j)arty could not stir out of their snow house, which made 
 the Esquimaux very low spirited and melancholy. Kas- 
 sigiak suggested, that it would be well " to try to make 
 good weather ;" but this the missionaries, of course, op- 
 posed, and told him that bis heathenish practices were of no 
 avail. They were, likewise, so pressed for provisions, that 
 the Esquimaux ate, one day, an old sack, made of fish- 
 skin ; the next day they began to devour a filthy worn-out 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 173 
 
 skin, which had served them for a mattrass. At the first 
 of these meals, they kept repeating, in a low humming 
 tone, " You were a sack but a little while ago, and now you 
 are food for us." The savages, however, possess the con- 
 venient quality of being able to compose themselves to sleep 
 "whenever they please, and, if necessary, they will sleep for 
 days and nights together. The temperature of the air hav- 
 ing been rather mild, occasioned a new source of distress ; 
 for the warm exhalations of the inhabitants melted the roof 
 of the snow house, and this caused a continual dropping, 
 which, by degrees, soaked every thing with water, and left 
 them not a dry thread about them, nor a dry place to lie on. 
 
 On the sixth day of their confinement, the floating ice, 
 which had for some time covered the coast, was again con- 
 solidated into a firm field. The Esquimaux belonging to 
 the other sledge, set out the next morning to pursue their 
 journey to Okkak ; and the brethren resolved to return 
 again to Nain. Mark, the Esquimaux driver, ran all 
 the way round Kiglapeit, before the sledge, to find a good 
 track ; and, after travelling three hours, they reached the 
 bay, and were consequently oiit of danger. Here they made 
 a meal on the remnant of their provisions ; and thus re- 
 freshed, continued their journey without stopping till they 
 reached Nain, where they arrived at twelve o'clock at night. 
 
 It may be easily conceived, with what gratitude to God 
 the whole family at Nain bade them welcome ; during the 
 storm, they had entertained considerable apprehensions for 
 their safety, though its violence was not so much felt there, 
 the coast being protected by the islands. The Esquimaux, 
 who had met the two sledges when setting out, and had 
 warned the travellers, in their own obscure manner, of the 
 ground-swell, now threw out hints which terrified their 
 friends, and especially the wives of the two missionaries. 
 One of these Esquimaux, to whom Liebisch was indebted 
 for some article of dress, came to his wife for payment 
 ** Wait a little," answered she; " when my husband returns- 
 
i74 parry's second vovauk. 
 
 he will settle with you ; for I am unacquainted with tlie 
 bargain between you." " Samuel and William," replied 
 the Esquimaux, " will return no more to Nain." *' How, 
 not return ! what makes you say so ?'* After some pause, 
 he replied, in a low tone, " Samuel and William are no 
 more ! all their bones are broken, and in the stomachs of 
 the sharks." He was so certain of their destruction, that he 
 was with difficulty prevailed on to wait their return. He 
 could not believe that it was possible for them to escape the 
 tempest, considering the course they were taking. All their 
 brethren, therefore, joined the more fervently in their thanks- 
 givings for this signal deliverance. 
 
 The same missionary. Turner, made two inland expedi- 
 tions, in the spring and autumn of 1780, in company of an 
 Esquimaux hunting party. On their way to the principal 
 haunts of the rein-deer, they had to cross a lake fifty miles 
 long and about onemile broad, with high mountainous shores. 
 The deer rove in herds round the banks of numerous snialler 
 lakes ; into these they are driven by the Esquimaux, who 
 then pursue them in their kajaks, and easily dispatch them 
 with the spear. But the constitution of the missionary re- 
 ceived a severe shock, from the intense cold and violent 
 storms of snow to which he was exposed, added to the 
 change from his ordinary diet to raw rein-deer's flesh, which 
 was his chief subsistence during these journeys ; and the at- 
 tempt was never repeated. 
 
 In the summer of 1782, the brethren began a third mis- 
 sionary settlement to the south, on the spot which they had 
 formerly marked out and purchased from the Esquimaux. 
 This station received the name of Hopedale; Erhard and 
 his companions having given this name to the place, not far 
 distant, where they first landed, and built a house. The 
 first proclamation of the gospel in this neighbourhood ex- 
 cited a considerable sensation, which seemed to augur fa- 
 vourably for its reception ; but various obstacles soon showed 
 themselves, which threatened for a time to retard, if not 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE, 175 
 
 entirely to arrest its progress. The spirit of traffic had be- 
 come extremely prevalent amongst the southern Esquimaux; 
 the hope of exaggerated advantages which they might de- 
 rive from a voyage to the European factories, wholly ab- 
 stracted their thoughts from religious inquiries ; and one 
 boat-load followed another throughout the summer. A 
 Frenchman from Canada, named Makko, who had newly 
 settled in the south, and who sustained the double charac- 
 ter of a trader and Catholic priest, was particularly success- 
 ful in enticing the Esquimaux by the motit tempting offers. 
 Besides the evil consequences resulting from these expedi- 
 tions in a spiritual point of view, so large a proportion of 
 their wares were thus conveyed to the south, that the an- 
 nual vessel which brouglit out provisions and other neces- 
 saries for the brethren, and articles of barter for the natives, 
 could make up but a small cargo in return ; though the bre- 
 thren, unwilling as they were to supply this ferocious race 
 with instruments which might facilitate the execution of their 
 revengeful projects, furnished them with the fire-arms, 
 which they would otherwise, and on any terms, have pro- 
 cured from the south. 
 
 Another unfavorable circumstance for the new misssion, 
 was the neighbourhood of Arvertok, whose heathen inhabi- 
 tants too frequently allured their believing countrymen 
 to join them in practices of the grossest superstition ; mak- 
 ing them promise to return to their former pagan habits, 
 which, however, they were to conceal from the observation 
 -of the missionaries ; and when their enticements proved un- 
 availing, their chief, Kapik, threatened to kill the refrac- 
 tory by his torngak. 
 
 The same temptations and the same propensity to min- 
 :gle again with their pagan countrymen, in those forbidden 
 diversions, which, however innocent in themselves, were, 
 from their accompaniments, uniformly found to debase and 
 brutalize their noinds, existed in a greater or smaller degree, 
 amongst the inhabitants of the two elder settlements. A 
 
176 parry's SFXOND VOYAGK 
 
 kache, or pleasure- house, which, to the grief of the mis- 
 sionaries, was erected in 1777, by the savages, near Naiu, 
 and resorted to by visitors from Okkak, has been described 
 by the brethren. It was built entirely of snow, sixteen feet 
 high and seventy square. The entrance was by a round 
 porch, which communicated with the main body of the house 
 by a long avenue, terminated at the farther end by a heart- 
 shaped aperture, about eighteen inches broad and two feet 
 in height. For greater solidity, the wall near the entrance 
 was congealed into ice by water poured upon it. Near the 
 entry was a pillar of ice supporting the lamp, and addition- 
 al light was let I'fr through a transparent plate of ice in the 
 side of the building. A string hung from the middle of the 
 roof, by which a small bone was suspended, with four holes 
 driven through it. Round this, all the women* were col- 
 lected, behind whom stood the men and boys, having each 
 a long stick, shod with iron. The string was now set a 
 swinging, and the men, all together, thrust their sticks 
 over the heads of their wives at the bone, till one of them 
 succeeded in striking a hole. A loud acclamation ensued : 
 the man sat down on a snow seat, and the victor, after go- 
 ing two or three times round the house singing, was kissed 
 by all the men and boys ; he then suddenly made his exit 
 through the avenue, and, on his return, the game was re- 
 newed. 
 
 To discourage these proceedings as much as possible, the 
 missionaries directed their believing Esquimaux to build 
 themselves houses on the ground belonging to the settle- 
 ments, in which none were permitted to reside who were 
 not seriously resolved to renounce heathenism, and all its 
 superstitions. This regulation was carried into execution 
 in Hopedale in 1783 ; and the same winter seventeen persona 
 were admitted as candidates for baptism, of whom six were 
 baptized next year. 
 
 Of the three stations, Okkak had commonly the largest, 
 and Nain the smallest number of Esquimaux, resident dur- 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 177 
 
 ing the winter. The preachingii were frequently very nu- 
 merously attended, both at the former place and at Hope - 
 dale, owing to the conflux of heathen who came from the 
 neighbourhood. Some of these, from time to time, evinced 
 a sincere disposition to receive the faith of Jesus, and were 
 accordingly baptized ; so that, though the unhappy trading 
 voyages before mentioned had entirely withdrawn many bap- 
 tized families from the congregation, the whole number in 
 the three settlements amounted, in 1790, to about eighty 
 persons, including catechumens. 
 
 A singular story, which circulated at Nain in 1773, and 
 gained credit with the Esquimaux, may be mentioned as an 
 instance of that deeply-rooted inclination for the marvellous 
 and supernatural which rendered it so difficult, even for 
 the Christian converts, to wean themselves from their attach- 
 ment to former superstitious notions and observances. It 
 was reported that the men in the north had at length killed 
 Innukpak, with his wife and children. This was a mur- 
 lerer of such monstrous size, that, while he stood in the 
 valley of Nain, he might have rested his hand on the sum* 
 mit of the adjacent mountain. His dress was the white 
 skin of the nennerluk, an amphibious bear, that hunted and 
 devoured the seals, each of whose ears was large enough 
 for the covering of a capacious tent. This beast did not 
 scruple to eat human tlesh, when he came on shore, where 
 some affirmed they had seen him, and were vexed whea 
 their testimony was doubted. Indeed the brethren in Okkak 
 thought they saw such a sea-monster one evening, in the 
 August of 1786, which rose up to the height of a huge ice« 
 berg, in the mouth of the bay, showed its white colour, and 
 then plunged down again, leaving a whirlpool of foam. 
 The Esquimaux, without hesitation, pronounced it to be 
 the nennerluk ; but as the description is so vague, we may 
 justly call in question whether they were not deceived by 
 some tumbling ice-berg. 
 
 With regard to their outward subsistence, tbe natives ha?e 
 
 P. V. 8. A a 
 
178 
 
 ' mare abun<lant and various resources than the Greenland- 
 ers. Besides whales and seals, the bays are stocked with 
 lar^e shoals of cod and other jfisb, and the rivulets afford 
 such plenty of salmon-trout, that the missionaries at Nain 
 have, in favourable years, taken 5000 in the space of a week. 
 The land furnishes a variety of fowl, hares, and rein-deer, 
 which are sometimes found in great numbers in the interior, 
 and the Esquimaux have killed 300 in a single hunt. Yet 
 these supplies are so precarious, and so badly husbanded 
 by this unthrifty race, that they are not unfrequently reduced 
 to the greatest straits in winter. Towards the end of 1795, 
 for instance, a great scarcity of provisions was experienced 
 in Nain, and five of the Esquimaux were obliged to set out 
 in sledges to fetch the deer which they had killed in the sum- 
 mer, and deposited under stones. In this journey, which 
 occupied a week, they could not have travelled less than 
 dOO miles, with do other sustenance than raw meat and cold 
 water. 
 
 In August, 1799, the missionaries at Nain were surprised 
 by a visit from a native of the most northern part of the 
 coast, for which they were indebted to a wonderful accident. 
 He had gone out on the ice in the January of 1797, with 
 three companions, to hunt seals ; but they were driven out 
 to sea, with the fragment on which they stt>od, by a strong 
 wind, till they lost sight of land. They must, if their reck- 
 oning was correct, have spent four months on this floating 
 voyage, during which time they subsisted on raw seals, 
 which they caught in great numbers, and was at length car- 
 ried to shore in a distant part of the south. The simple and 
 confidential manner of this Northlander favourably distin- 
 guished him from his southern countrymen. 
 ' Amidst the discouraging lukewarmness and deadness 
 which prevailed amongst many members of their flock, and 
 ^^he^open deviations of several who had already been bap- 
 tized, the brethren had the pleasure to perceive that on 
 *6ome hearts the word of atonement had taken its natural 
 
TO TflE NORTH POLE. 179 
 
 <?flFect, producing; a thorough change of con(iii*;t and senti- 
 ment, and ill the hour of parting nature affording^ the true 
 believer a firm ground of faith and hope. Amongst the fore- 
 most of (hi« class was the widow Esther^ who departed, at 
 Okkak, in 1792. B^iug at Nain, on a visit with her parents^ 
 she iieard of Jesus as her Creator and Redeemer, and, 
 though quite a child, she retimed a deep impression of these 
 saving truths. It became her practice, as she afterwards 
 related, to resort to a retired part of the hill, neur Killanek> 
 her birth-place, and there pour forth her prayers and com.^ 
 plaints before her heavenly Friend. After the death of her 
 father, she became the third wife of a man of a rough and 
 brutal disposition, who was a murderer and sorcerer. The 
 miseries which she had to endure from this marriage did 
 not cease with the death of her husband ; she was hated on 
 his account, and her two children so cruelly beaten that 
 they died in consequence. At length, the baptized Rebecca, 
 who pitied her in this distress, took her with her to Okkak* 
 Here her ardent aspirations for all the blessings of Christ's 
 family were soon satisfied, and she passed the remainder oC 
 her mortal life in an increasingly happy communion with her 
 God. "He is my Father," she would often say ; " where- 
 ver I am, he is with me ; and I can tell him all my wants." 
 She was the first of the Esquimaux who kept their profes- 
 sion of faith unblemished to the end. She constantly de- 
 clined all offers of marriage, whether from believers or hea- 
 thens, that she might continue, in summer as well as win- 
 ter, with the brethren. Her natural talents were consider- 
 able, and she soon learned to read and write. In her illness 
 she expressed her feelings in the words of holy writ : " Whe- 
 ther I live, 1 live unto the Lord, or whether I die, I die 
 unto the Lord ; Whether I Jive, therefore, or die, lam the 
 Lord's. He laid down his life for my ransom, and he will 
 kepp his purchase." She died in her thirtieth year. 
 
 About the same time, the missionaries had the pleasure 
 to witness the c»)nverjiion of Tuglavina, a noted Esquimaux* 
 
 A a 2 
 
t80 parry's second voyage 
 
 who, with his wife Mikkak, had rendered great assistance 
 to them in their settlement at Labrador. By his strength, 
 courage, and penetration, combined with the reputation of 
 a potent wizard, he had acquired an unbounded influence 
 over his weaker countrymen, and his word passed for law. 
 He had committed many murders with his own hands, and 
 was accessary to many more ; for if any one had incurred 
 his resentment, he had only to declare that the torngak had 
 decreed his death, and a multitude of hands were instantly 
 raised to seal the doom. But in the progress of years, 
 when his bodily vigour began to decline, his extraordinary 
 ascendency, which rested entirely upon his personal quali- 
 ties, declined with it, according to the common fate of sa- 
 vage chieftains. His friends of his own standing were con- 
 tinually dropping off, while those who inherited the wrongs 
 done to their murdered or insulted kinsmen, were strong in 
 youth and number. Tuglavina was reduced to poverty ; of 
 his numerous wives, some deserted him in the wane of his 
 fortunes, others were violently taken from him, without his 
 daring to make any resistance ; and only one of Ihem all re- 
 mained. In these depressed circumstances, he could no 
 longer repress those j)angs of compunction and remorse by 
 which he was assailed. On the first arrival of the brethren 
 in the country, he had been convinced by their testimony, 
 that he was a guilty and miserable man, exposed to inevit- 
 able destruction, if he persisted in his career ; but he still 
 found means to soothe the secret voice of conscience. Now, 
 however, he declared his resolution to change his life, that 
 he might seek forgivenes for his crimes, of which he made 
 a free disclosure to the missionaries, and find rest for his 
 soul. On his pressing request, he was permitted to reside 
 with his family at Nain ; and, though his pride led him at 
 first into temporary aberrations from the right path, he gave 
 such proofs of sincerity, that he was received into the con- 
 gregation on Christmas day, 1793. He had been baptized 
 in Chateau Bay by a presbyterian minister, during a dunge-* 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 181 
 
 rolls illness. After bis admission to the holy communion^ 
 he made visible progress in humility and all other christian 
 graces, and showed great anxiety tor the conversion of his 
 heathen countrymen, to which he contributed all in his power. 
 Yet he once more suffered high thoughts to seduce him into 
 such gross improprieties that it was necessary to exclude 
 him for a time from the Lord*s table, until he came to a due 
 sense of his misconduct. He died in 1798^ after a short ill- 
 ness, at the age of sixty years. 
 
 One of the objects of the establishment at Hoped ale had 
 been to promote an intercourse with the Red Indians who 
 lived in the interior, and sometimes approached in small 
 parties to the coast. A mutual reserve subsisted between 
 them and the Esquimaux, and the latter fled with the great- 
 est trepidation, when they discovered any traces of them in 
 ttieir neighbourhood. In 1790, however, much of this cold- 
 ness was removed, when several families of these Indians 
 came to Kippokak, an European factory about twenty 
 miles distant from Hopedale. In April, 1799, the mis- 
 sionaries conversed with two of them, a father and son, who 
 came to Hopedale to buy tobacco. It appeared that they 
 were attached to the service of some Canadians in the 
 southern settlements, as well as many others of their tribe, 
 and had been baptized by the French priests. They evi- 
 dently regarded the Esquimaux with alarm, though they 
 endeavoured to conceal their suspicions, excusing themselves 
 from lodging in their tents, on account of their uncleanly 
 hnbits. At parting they assured the brethren that they would 
 in future receive frequent visits from their countrymen ; but 
 this has not yet been the case. 
 
 In 1800, a most melancholy accident occurred at the set- 
 tlement just mentioned. The missionary Reiman, having 
 gone out alone on the 2nd of December to shoot partridges, 
 returned no more, having probably lost his life by the ice 
 >)reaking under him. As the weather was remarkably fine, 
 the brethren and Esquimaux persevered in their search for 
 
182 varry's second voyuge 
 
 him nine days, but all to no purpose ; for thouj^h his foot- 
 steps were seen in several places on the snow, they were lost 
 ajjain on the ice, nor were his remains ever discovered. 
 
 Towards the close of 1804, the indifferent success which 
 had hitherto attended the labours of the missionaries, owing* 
 to causes which have already been mentioned, the roving* 
 dispositions of the natives, their lurking unbelief manifested 
 in their addiction to superstitious practices, particularly in 
 cases of illness, and the absence of a vital principle of god- 
 liness even amongst those who led a moral and decent life, 
 was succeeded by a new and a brighter period. A fire from 
 the Lord was kindled at Hopedale, the very place which 
 before presented the greatest discouragements, and spread 
 from thence to the other two settlements. 
 
 When the Esquimaux of this congregation returned from 
 their summer excursions, our missionaries were delighted to 
 find that they had not only been preserved from sintui prac- 
 tices, but had made considerable progress in the knowledge 
 of the truth. They had attained a deeper insight into the 
 natural depravity of their hearts, and the wretched state of 
 ])ersons void of faith in Christ. This constrained them to 
 cry for mercy ; and there was reason to believe that some 
 at least, had found forgiveness of their sins in his blood, 
 by which their hearts were filled with joy and comfort in be- 
 lieving. Out of the abundance of the heart, their mouths 
 spake of the love and power of Jesus ; and their energetic 
 declarations made a serious impression on the rest of the 
 inhabitants. They began to see the necessity of true con- 
 version ; and earnestly sought for peace with God. Even 
 several of the children were similarly affected. The mis- 
 sionaries received daily visits from their people, who either 
 came to enquire, what they must do to be saved ; or to 
 testify of the grace of God, which they had already expe- 
 rienced. 
 
 While this heavenly flame was in full blaze at Hopedak>, 
 two Esquimaux, Siksigak and Kapik, arrived there from 
 
TO THE NORTH POLK. ,183 
 
 Nain. The former of them brought his wife with hiui, whom 
 be had married from thence two years before, intending to 
 return her to her mother, and take another who promised to 
 second him in every heathenish abomination, and to leave the 
 Christian Esquimaux altogether. On entering his own 
 mother's house, who likewise lived at Hopedale, he found 
 the family engaged in evening prayer. They went on 
 ^vithout being disturbed by his arrival ; and he sat down 
 quite astonished at what he saw and heard, not knowing 
 ivhat they were doing. On his informing them of the pur- 
 port of his visit, the whole company began to entreat him 
 most earnestly not to part from his wife, but rather to turn 
 with his whole heart to Jesus. The missionaries too, added 
 their exhortations to the same effect, but he persisted in his 
 determination. His relations, perceiving that he was im- 
 movably fixed, resorted to prayer. The following day they 
 all assembled in his mother's house, and in his presence^ 
 joined in fervent supplication for his conversion. His mo- 
 ther, amongst the rest, uttered the following petition : " O 
 my Lord Jesus ! behold, this is my child ; I now give him 
 up to thee j Oh, accept of him, and suffer him not to be 
 lost for ever P* This scene, so unprecedented and unex- 
 pected had an instantaneous effect on the young man ; he 
 was filled with concern fur his salvation ; his whole heart 
 seemed changed ; he desisted from his wicked purpose, took 
 back his wife, and became an humble enquirer after the 
 truth, to whom the Lord afterwards showed great mercy. 
 His companion, Kapik, was also powerfully awakened by 
 the instrumentality of his relations. 
 
 On their return to Nain, these two men, with energy and 
 boldness, preached Jesus to their countrymen. Some of their 
 friends heard them with astonishment ; others mocked and 
 hated them ; but the impression on the rest of the inhabi- 
 tants was a pleasing and permanent one. " We saw several 
 of our people,'* say the missionaries, " yielding by degrees 
 to conviction^ and beginning to doubt whether their Chris- 
 
184 parry's SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 tianity was of the right kind, and whether they liad not been 
 deceiving themselves and others. They came and volun- 
 tarily confessed their sins, some with many tears, and in a 
 manner of which we had no instances before. The more 
 they reflected on their former life, the more deeply were 
 they convinced of the treachery of their hearts ; they wept 
 on account of the deceit they had so often practised, and 
 confessed to us things of which we could have formed nc 
 conception. Though we could not but feel puin on account 
 of their former hypocrisy, our grief was balanced by the 
 joy we felt at the amazing power of our Saviour's grace, by 
 which their hearts were thus broken and softened. Our 
 drooping faith and courage revived, and we saw clearly 
 that with God nothing is impossible/' 
 
 The news of these events was carried to Okkak by visi- 
 tors from Nain, and was accompanied with the same happy 
 eflects. Many of the heathen who lived in the neighbour- 
 hood, were so astonished at these occurrences among their 
 believing countrymen, that they resolved to move to one 
 or other of the settlements. Even the northern Esquimaux 
 who passed through the place on their trading excursions, 
 were struck with admiration on beholding this genuine work 
 of God. They came frequently to converse with the mis* 
 sionaries, listened to the gospel with uncommon attention, 
 and most of them expressed their earnest wish to become 
 acquainted with Jesus as their Saviour. They expressed 
 their regret that they lived at so great a distance, and could 
 not well forsake their native country, but said that if the 
 missionaries would come to them they would gladly receive 
 instruction. 
 
 The subsequent years of the mission proved that this 
 awakening was not the momentary blaze of a meteor, scarce 
 seen before it is extinguished, but a divine iiam^ emanating 
 from the Spirit of God, and kept alive by his gracious in 
 fluences. The labours of the missionaries became from this 
 time comparatively light, for their instructions were no Ion- 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 185 
 
 get listened to as a task, but received with avidity by wil- 
 ling hearers ; the schools were diligently frequented both 
 by old and young ; and their regular and devout attendance 
 on public worship, showed that they considered it no less 
 as a pleasure than a duty. The following is one of many 
 similar representations given by the brethren of the conduct 
 of their flock : " We have cause to rejoice, " they write in 
 their journal, 1812, **that we know, among our people, 
 many who have found remission of their sins in the blood of 
 Jesus. There are indeed exceptions, but we can truly say» 
 that among the very considerable number of Esquimaux 
 who live with us, we know of few who are not seriously desi- 
 rous to profit by what they hear, and to experience and enjoy 
 themselves, that which they see their countrymen possess. 
 Our communicants give us pleasure, for it is the wish of 
 their very hearts to live unto the Lord ; and their conduct 
 affords proofs of the sincerity of their professions. Thus, 
 for example, Esquimaux sisters, who have no boat of their 
 own, venture across bays some miles in breadth, sitting be- 
 hind their husbands on their narrow kajaks, in order to be 
 present at the Holy Sacrament, though at the peril of their 
 lives. The baptized and candidates for baptism also de- 
 clare, whenever they have an opportunity of speaking pri- 
 vately with us, that they seek satisfaction in nothing but in 
 living to Jesus, and that their favourite occupation, in lei- 
 sure hours, consists in singing hymns and reading the Gos- 
 pels which have been printed for their benefit. Their Chris- 
 tian deportment has this natural consequence, that their 
 neighbours who have not joined us, are inspired with a de* 
 sire to become equally happy and contented. Our young 
 people are a constant subject of our most earnest supplica- 
 tion unto the Lord, that He would reveal himself to their 
 hearts ; nor are there wanting instances amongst them of 
 the efficacy of divine grace. All these blessings, which we 
 can only briefly touch upon, call for our sincerest gratitude 
 unto the Lord ; we devote ourselves most willingly to the 
 P. V. a B b 
 
186 * parry's second voyage 
 
 service ; and if we may be permitted to bring but one stone 
 to the biiildiag of his earthly Jerusalem, how great will be 
 our joy !" 
 
 Many pleasingincidents might be detailed to illustrate and. 
 confirm this statement, but it would swell this sketch to a 
 size inconsistent with the brevity to be observed in this nar- 
 rative. The following is a concise notice of the few pro- 
 minent events which distinguished the remaining period of 
 their history. 
 
 In 1811, the iidiabitants of Hopedale were attacked by one 
 of those pestiFential disorders which have so often desolated 
 these northern coasts. The missionaries give the following 
 account of it : ** Our Esquimaux were for a long time pre- 
 served from any particular illnesses, except that they were 
 subject to a species of eruption and boils, which, however, 
 though painful and unpleasant, were rather beneficial to 
 their general health. But on the 24th of July, as a boat 
 filled with our people was leaving Tikkerarsuk, one of their 
 provision places, to return to Hopedale, several of them, 
 one after another, were seized with a nervous and paralytic 
 disorder, of a most dangerous and deadly nature, insomuch 
 that during the next eight days, thirteen of them departed 
 this life, of whom seven were communicants. Three of them 
 were fishing in perfect health in the morning, and in the even- 
 ing lay corpses in the boat. Above thirty were taken ill, and 
 some brought to the brink of the grave; but now, thank 
 God, the greater number have recovered, though a few are 
 still very weak. As late as the 12th September, we buried 
 an old communicant, called Luke. Terror and dismay 
 seized the people, but we confidently believe that those who 
 departed this life are now in the presenceof Him whom they 
 bad known here as their Saviour, and to whose holy will 
 they expressed full resignation 
 
 " By this afflicting dispensation we have now a consider- 
 able number of widows and orphans depending entirely 
 upon charity, and we cannot withhold from them occasional 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 187 
 
 assistance. We often comniend them in prayer ia the 
 Father of the fatherless, who will in mercy regard ihetr 
 wants." 
 
 As early as the year 1800, the missianaries learned fraia 
 the reports of the Northlanders, who visited their settletnents, 
 that the main seat of the natron wa& on^the coust and islands 
 of the north, beyofid Cape Chudleigh, and anxiously de- 
 sired an opportunity of carrying the gospel into that quar- 
 ter. On asking their visitors whether it would be agreeable 
 to them to have a miss-ion established in their country, they 
 assured the brethren that it would give them the greatest 
 pleasure. "The whole land," they said, " would welcome 
 them with one loud shout of rejoicing." Preparations were 
 made by two of the brethren in 1800, for a coasting voyage 
 to explore the country in that direction, but their plan was 
 frustrated by unfavourable winds and weather. 
 
 This project, however, though suspended for a time, was 
 not abandoned ; and in 1811, the missionaries were auth<^- 
 rized to fit out another expedition for the same purpose; 
 The brethren Kohlmeister and Kmock, cheerfully engaged 
 in this didicult and perilous ei^erprise, for which they both 
 possessed eminent qualifications. Having engaged a Chris- 
 tian Esquimaux from Uopedale, as a steersman, with his 
 two- masted shallop, they embarked at Okkak on the 23rd 
 of June, accompanied by four Esquimaux families, besides 
 that of their guide, amounting in all to nineteen per- 
 sons. After encountering various dangers from the ice in 
 their passage up the coast, which had never before been 
 Tjavigated by an European, they doubled Cape Chudleigh, 
 and on the 7lh of August, came to an anchor at the mouth 
 of the Kangertluksoak, or George River, in the Ungava 
 country, lying 140 miles S.S.W. of the cape, in latitude 
 58^ 5T' north. Here they staid some days, pitching their 
 tents on a green slope, overgrown with shrubs, and flanked 
 by a woody valley, which possessed every advantage for a 
 missionary station. 
 
 B b2 
 
 Irt;!'!^ «!:«.• 
 
188 parry's second voyage 
 
 A sail of six days brought them to the mouth of the 
 Koksoak, or South River, 58° 36* north latitude. It is six 
 or seven hundred miles from Okkak, and its width about 
 as broad as the Thames at Gravesend. Some way up the 
 river, they arrived at a well watered and fertile plain, half 
 a mile in extent, which they also considered as well adapted 
 for a settlement. Being satisfied from the account of the 
 natives that there were no other eligible places farther to 
 the west, they now returned homewards^ and reached Ok- 
 kak in safety on the 4th of October, after an absence of four* 
 teen weeks, having performed a voyage of from twelve to 
 thirteen hundred miles. 
 
 It may be observed that no further steps have yet been 
 taken towards the establishment of a fourth settlement in 
 Ungava, a delay which has arisen partly from the distresses 
 occasioned by the late continental war, and partly from the 
 following untoward accident. 
 
 ** October 28th, 1816," writes the narrator, " the Jemima 
 arrived in the Thames from Labrador, after one of the most 
 dangerous and fatiguing passages ever known. The ship 
 arrived at the drift-ice, on the Labrador coast, on the 16th 
 of July. Captain P raser found it extending two hundred 
 miles from the land ; and after attempting to get in, first at 
 Hopedale, then at Nain, and lastly at Okkak, he was at 
 length completely surrounded by ice, and in the most im- 
 minent danger during six days and nights, expecting every 
 moment that the ship would be crushed in pieces, till, after 
 very great exertions, he got towards the outer part of the ice* 
 Nevertheless, he was beset by it for forty-nine days, and 
 did not reach Okkak till August 29th. The very next day 
 the whole coast, as far as the eye could reach, was entirely 
 choked up with ice ; and after lying at Okkak nearly three 
 weeks, he was twice forced back by it on his passage to Nain, 
 which place he did not reach till September 22nd. After 
 staying the usual time, Captain Fraser proceeded, October 
 8d. to Hooedale : but though the weather was fine the late- 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 189 
 
 ness of the season, and thelar^e quantities of drift-ice, left 
 him little hope of reaching that settlenaent. He mentioned 
 this opinion to the brethren at Nain. However, brother 
 Kmock and his wife, and the two single brethren, Korner 
 and Cbristensen, who were going to Hopedale, went on 
 board, and they set sail. But the same evening it began 
 to blow extremely hard, with an immense fall of snow, and 
 very thick weather, so that they could not see the length of 
 the ship, and being within half a mile of a dangerous reef of 
 rocks, they were obliged to carry a press of sail to clear 
 them, which they did but just accomplish ; for the gale af- 
 terwards increased to such a degree, the wind being right 
 on shore, that they could not carry sail any longer, and 
 were obliged to lay the ship to, the sea often breaking over 
 her ; and the captain was at length necessitated to bear away 
 for England, October 5th. He again experienced a gale 
 equal to a hurricane, from the 8th to the 10th of October, 
 which was so violent during the night of the 9tb, that the 
 captain momently expected the ship^s foundering. She was 
 at one time struck by a sea, which twisted her in such a 
 manner that the seams on her larboard opened, and the 
 water gushed into the cabin and the mate's birth as if it came 
 from a pump, and every one thought her side was stove in. 
 However, the Lord was pleased to protect every one from 
 harm ; and, considering all things, the ship did not suffer 
 materially, neither was any thing lost." 
 
 By this disaster, the only serious one which has befallen 
 the missionary vessel in her annual voyages during a period 
 of fifty years, four zealous missionaries were abruptly trans- 
 ported from the field of their activity, leaving their expect- 
 ing fellow- labourers in Hopedale in a state of the most 
 painful anxiety regarding their fate. They returned to 
 Labrador in the following summer, though not without en- 
 countering the most imminent risks from storms, thick fogs, 
 and ice fields, every one of which, seen through the gloom, 
 appeared fraught with death. They were happy to find that 
 
190 
 
 their brethren in fJopeilale, thoug^li disturbed by apprehen- 
 sions for their safety, had suffered no want of provisions, 
 having been supplied fronn the stores at Nain. 
 
 The next year's vessel carried out a translation of the Acts 
 of the Apostles, published for the use of the Esquimaux by 
 the British and Foreign Bible Society, which has before, 
 at different times, presented them with the invaluable gift 
 of the four Gospels in their own language, and generously 
 offered to print a version of the whole New Testament, which 
 is now in progress. Besides this, the Harmony of the Gospel 
 History, a hymn book, and a summary of Christian Doc- 
 trine, for the benefit of the children, have been printed, and 
 are in use among the Esquimaux. 
 
 On reviewing the progress of these missions, whose 
 history has been here described, God's mercy and goodness 
 has been graciously manifested in thus raising up a seed 
 to serve him in the deserts of the North, and for so gra- 
 ciously preserving his faithful servants through a course of 
 hardships and dangers encountered in these boreal climes, 
 which, though monotonous in the recital, must have a fear- 
 ful interest in the reality. But the motives which promj»t 
 them to brave these perils and privations is worthy of all 
 their devotion, and the end which they propose to them- 
 selves is a glorious one. If he, the Lord of the harvest, 
 who has sent them forth, still continue to crown their en- 
 deavours with his blessing, pleasing reflections may be in- 
 dulged, that on the great day of decision, when earth and 
 sea shall render up their dead, the frozen rocks and icy se- 
 pulchres of Labrador and Greenland, will yield no incon- 
 siderable propoition of their charge to swell that choral 
 shout which shall proclaim the finished work of the Re- 
 deemer, and the fulness of his reward for the travail of his 
 soul. 
 
 Seals constitute great part of the food of the Equimaux. 
 They have a strong, tough, hairy skin, like iand animals ; 
 but the hair is very short, and appears as if rubbtd wiili 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE, 191 
 
 oil. The fore legs are short, stand downwards, and act as 
 oars ; the hinder ones, which are situated nearly in a hue 
 with the body, on each side of a short tail, serve both for 
 steering and accelerating their motion. They have five toes 
 on their feet, each consisting of four joints, and terminat- 
 ing in a sharp claw, v?ith which the animal clings to ice and 
 rocks. The hinder feet are palmated, having the toes con- 
 nected by a membrane, which the se«l extends when swim- 
 ming. Their proper element is the water, and their nou- 
 rishment all kinds of fishes. They are fond of basking or 
 sleeping in the sunshine on the ice or shore, snore very loud, 
 and being very sound sleepers, are at such times easily sur- 
 iprised and killed. 
 
 Their gait is lame, but they can nevertheless make such 
 good use of their fore- feet, and take such leaps with the hind 
 ;ones, that a man cannot easily overtake them. The head 
 is pretty much like that of a dog with cropped ears. In some 
 species it is rounder, in others more pointed. Their cry is 
 somewhat similar to that of a wild boar, and their young 
 ones make a piping noise like the mewing of a cat. The 
 mouth is armed with sharp teeth, and the lips furnished 
 with a strong beard like bristles. They have two nostrils, 
 and raise to the surface every quarter of an hour to take breath ; 
 large fiery eyes, with lids and eye-brows, and two small 
 apertures for ears, without any external projection. Their 
 body tapers towards the head and tail, a formation which 
 facilitates their progress through the water. At first sight 
 they most resemble a mole. Their blubber is from three to 
 four inches thick ; and the fiesh, which is tender and greasy, 
 eats pretty much like that of a wild boar. It is not so oily 
 and rancid as the generality of sea- fowl, and would be eaten 
 by most Europeans with a greater relish, were they not dis- 
 gusted by the name. Some species of these animals are met 
 urith almost in every part of the ocean. 
 
 There are five species, which, as to the form of their 
 
192 
 
 bodies, are nearly alike ; but differ io size, in tlie quality of 
 their hair, and in the shape of their heads. 
 
 1. Kassigiak, the pied seal, phocabicolor, is a long seal 
 with a thick head. Its colour is a ground of black, freckled 
 With white spots. The skins of their young ones, if black on 
 the back, look almost as rich as velvet. They are exported 
 in great numbers, and worn as waistcoats. The older the 
 animal is, the larger are its spots. Some skins resemble 
 those of panthers, and are used as horse cloths. A full 
 grown seal of this species is about two yards and a quarter 
 in length. 
 
 2. The harp seal, phoca groenlandica, (Attarsoak,) 
 has a more pointed head, a thicker body, more and better 
 blubber than the former, and when full grown, measures 
 four yards in length. It is then generally of a light grey 
 colour, and has a black mark on its back like a double cres- 
 cent, with the horns directed towards each other. There 
 is also a blackish variety without any mark. All seals 
 change colour yearly, while growing ; but the alteration is 
 most conspicuous in 'this species. In the first year it is of a 
 cream colour : in the second, grey : in the third, coloured : 
 in the fourth, spotted : and in the fifth, when it is full grown, 
 and gets its distinguished mark, Attarsoak. Their skin is 
 stiff and strong, and is used to cover trunks. 
 
 3. The rough seal, phoca hispida, (neitsek,) does not dif- 
 fer much from the former, except that its colour is browner, 
 inclining to a pale white. Its hair does not lie smooth, but 
 is rough and bristly like that of swine. j 
 
 4. The hooded seal, phoca cristata, besides its superio- 
 rity in size, has under its hair a short thick set coat of 
 black wool, which gives the skin a beautiful grey colour. 
 The forehead is furnished with a thick folded skin, which 
 the animal can draw over its eyes like a cap, to protect 
 them from stones or sand, driven about by the surf in a 
 storm. 
 
 5. The great seal, phoca barbata, is the largest species 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 19^ 
 
 of seal, and about four ells long, with blackish hair, and a 
 thick skin, out of which they cut thongs half an inch thick, 
 for their seal fishery. 
 
 The walrus, or sea-horse, rosmarus, may be classed among 
 the seals, which it resembles in the form of its body. From 
 its head, which is not pointed like a seal's, but broad, blunt, 
 and armed with two long tusks, it might aptly be denomi- 
 nated the sea-elephant. 
 
 The whole animal may be about nine yards long, and the 
 same in circumference round the breast. It weighs about 
 1000 pounds. The skin is about half an inch in thickness, 
 much shrivelled, especially on the neck, where it is very 
 grisly, and twice as thick as on the rest of the body. The 
 fat is white, solid like bacon, about six inches thick ; but 
 the train which it affords is neither so good, nor so abun- 
 dant as that produced by seal's blubber, owing to its tough 
 vesicles. Both fore and hind feet are longer and more 
 clumsy than those of the seal. The toes have joints about 
 six inches in length, but are not armed with sharp claws. 
 Its mouth is so small that a man can with difficulty thrust 
 his fist into it, and the under lip, which is of a triangular 
 shape, hangs down between the two tusks. On both the 
 lips, and on each side of the nose, there is a stripe of spongy 
 skin, about a hand's breadth, stuck full of monstrous bris- 
 tles, like treble twisted cord, as thick as straws, pel- 
 lucid, and about six inches in length. These give the 
 animal a grim but majestic aspect. The snout is not pro- 
 minent : the eyes have no lids, and are not larger than those 
 of an ox. The ears are situated in the u^ek : their aper- 
 tures, which are in the back part of the skull, without any 
 external projection, are scarcely perceivable. It has no 
 cutting teeth, but nine broad concave grinders, four in the 
 upper, and five in the under jaw. It cannot therefore catch 
 and chew fishes like the seal, for the two long tusks bend- 
 ing downwards over its mouth would rather impede than as- 
 sist it in fishing. These tusks are exceedingly compact, of 
 
 P. V 9. C c 
 
194 parry's second voyage 
 
 a finer grain than ivory, and very white, except in the mid- 
 dle, -w liere they are of a brownish colour, like polished ma- 
 ple. The extremities inserted in the skull, are somewhat 
 hollow, rather compressed, and, in most animals, full of 
 notches. It is a rare case that both tusks are found per- 
 fectly whole and sound. The ri^ht tusk is about an inch 
 longer than the left. Its entire length is about twenty- seven 
 inches, of which seven lie within the skull. The circum- 
 ference at the bottom is about eight inches. Close to the 
 head the tusks are separated by about four inches, but di- 
 verge to the distance of ten, and are somewhat bent at the 
 points. Each tooth weighs about seven pounds 
 
 The use the walrus makes of his tusks is, probably, 
 partly to detach the muscles aad sea-weed which he lives 
 upon, from the rocks, partly to lay hold of rocks and ice 
 masses in order to drag along his huge unmanageable bulk, 
 and partly to defend himself against the bear and the sword- 
 fish. 
 
 The following is a brief account of the process in catch- 
 ing whales. As soon as a whale is either seen or heard, a 
 shallop, with six hands on board, immediately makes up to 
 him, taking care to approach his side near the head. Five 
 or six boats are always in readiness for this purpose. When 
 the fish rises to take breath, and, as is generally the case, 
 remains a short time on the surface, the boat rows up to his 
 side, and the harpooner pierces him somewhere near the fin. 
 They now row back with all possible speed, before the whale 
 can feel the thrust and overset or crush the boat with a blow 
 of his tail. The harpoon is a triangular barbed piece of steel 
 about a foot long, and fastened to a shaft. As soon as the fish 
 perceives the pain, it darts down to the bottom : the rope, 
 which is about half an inch thick, a hundred fathoms long, 
 and made of fresh hemp, then flies off* with such rapidity, 
 that if it by any means gets entangled, it must either snap in 
 an instant, or overset the boat. INine rolls of rope lie in the 
 bottom of each shallop. One man is stationed to attend to 
 
TO THE NOIITII T'OLf'. 195 
 
 die line lest it should get ravelled ; and another to pt>ur wa- 
 ter on the place where it rubs on the boat's side, in order to 
 preveat it from firing by the excessive friction. If the whale is 
 not mortally wounded, be may flounce about in the deep for an 
 haur, and drag after him several thousand fathoms of line ; 
 for as soon as he is struck, the other boats hasten to the spot 
 with a fresh supply. The velocity of his motion equals the 
 flight of an eagle, and the boats make after him with all pos- 
 sible dispatch. Should he retire under the drift-ice they 
 follow him ; but when he dives under a large field, there is 
 only one alternative, either to draw out the harpoon, by main 
 force, or cut the line. If he comes up a second time, they 
 strike him with several more harpoons, and then dispatch 
 him with lances. As soon as he is dead, he rises to the sur- 
 face, with his belly upwards. 
 
 Meanwhile the ship uses all possible speed to join the 
 boats which have the whale in tow. As soon as he comes up, 
 tliey cut two deep slits in his blubber, through which they 
 pass a cable, and tie him to the ship's side. The first thing 
 to be done is to row a shallop into his jaws, and cut outcare- 
 fully» with long ca-ooked knives, the whalebone borders from 
 the gums. They only take five hundred of the largest, which 
 are worth as much as all the blubber. After having taken 
 out the tongue, they cut otF the fat from the body with long 
 knives, in large quadrangular pieces, beginning both at the 
 head and tail at once, and haul it upon deck with pullies. 
 It is there cut into smaller pieces, and stowed till the fishery 
 is over. The tail and fins are cut ofl' whole, and reserved 
 for making glue. 
 
 Forty or fifty men mutually assisting each other, will 
 strip a whale of its blubber m four hours. As the body of 
 fat progressively diminishes, the ropes are removed towards 
 the middle, and the fish turns round of itself. When the 
 last rkig of blubber is cut oft', the carcase loses its buoyancy, 
 and is committed to the deep with a joyful huzza from the 
 whole crew. After a few days it bursts, rises to the sur- 
 
 C c 2 
 
106 parfiy's sI'Cond voyage 
 
 face, and affords a plentiful repast to the sea-fowl and white 
 bears. If the cutting up of the whale is deferred on account 
 of the turbulent weather, or to catch more fishes, it swells 
 gradually with a humming noise, and at last bursts with a 
 vehement explosion, ejecting from its entrails a filthy scarlet 
 fluid which has an abominable stench. 
 
 When the fishery is over, the ships retire into a harbour or 
 to a large area of ice, in order to gain more room for cutting 
 up the blubber. After having taken it all out of' the hold, 
 they strip off the skin, which is thrown into the sea. They 
 cut the blubber into small oblong pieces, lower it down into 
 the hold in leather bags, and fill one vessel after the other. 
 While the latter work is going forward, the deck swims with 
 train above shoe-top ; this is laded up or caught in pails at 
 the gutters, and poured into the casks. What leaks out of 
 the barrels is the finest, and is called clear train, and that 
 which is melted out of the bulk of the blubber, brown train. 
 The dregs are comparatively very trifling, and one hundred 
 barrels of blubber will generally yield ninety-six of oil. 
 
 Of the whale fishery of the Greenlanders, it is to be 
 observed that the proper whale and narwhal, are only 
 caught in the north ; the cachalot and smaller species in the 
 south also. Their method of taking the Greenland whale i» 
 as follows : all the natives who engage in the pursuit put oo 
 their best clothes ; for, according to a saying of their sorcer- 
 ers, if any one of the company wore a dirty dress, especially 
 one contaminated by a dead body, the whale would fly their 
 approach, and even though killed would sink to the bottom 
 The women are forced to accompany the expedition, partly 
 in order to row, partly to mend the men's clothes and boots 
 should they get torn or damaged. They assail the whale 
 courageously in their boats and kajaks, darting numerous 
 harpoons into his body. The large seal-skin bladders, tied to 
 these weapons, prevent him from sinking deep in the water. 
 As soon as he is tired out, they dispatch him with short lancea. 
 
TO T!IK NOIITH POLE. 197 
 
 The men then creep into their lishin^ dress, which is com- 
 posed of seal-skin, and has shoes, stockings, gloves and cup, 
 all in one piece. Thus equipped they jump upon the whale, 
 or even stand in the water by his side, buoyed up by their 
 swollen dress. They cut off the blubber with their uncouth 
 knives, and thougli provided with such poor instruments, are 
 very expert in extracting the whalebone from the jaws. The 
 former operation is a scene of the utmost confusion. Men, 
 women, and children, armed with pointed knives, tumble 
 over each others backs, every one striving to be present at 
 the sport, and to have a share in the spoil. It is a matter of 
 wonder to a spectator how they avoid wounding each other 
 more frequently. However, the scuffle seldom ends without 
 bloodshed. The smaller species of whales, tbey catch like 
 seals, or drive them into bays, till they run aground. 
 
 Tlie rein deer is the northern stag, and is found also in 
 Spitsbergen, Siberia, Norway, Lapland, and the most nor- 
 thern tracts of America. It is impossible for them to exist 
 in warmer countries, where they cannot breathe the pure 
 mountain air, and browze the tender grass and moss of 
 polar regions. It is well known that the Laplanders possess 
 herds of rein-deer, sometimes amounting to several hundred, 
 or even a thousand head, which supply them with flesh, milk 
 and cheese, drag sledges loaded with all their substance, 
 and even serve instead of post-horses. Those of Greenland 
 are wild and fleet, and their smell is so acute that they rarely 
 suflfer the hunter to steal upon them unawares, especially if 
 the wind blow the scent towards them. The missionaries 
 caught and brought up a young rein-deer, and it grew, after 
 some time, as tame as a child, but played the Green landers 
 so many mischievous tricks, that they were forced to kill it. 
 The largest are about the size of a small heifer, generally 
 brown or grey, with white bellies. They are covered with 
 very thick hair, about an inch in length. Their antlers, 
 which they cast in the spring of every year, differ from those 
 of the stag, in being smooth, and about three inches brbad 
 
198 parry's second voyage 
 
 at top. While the new horns are young and tender, they 
 are protected by a woolly covermg, which the animal after- 
 wards rubs off. In spring they also get a new coat of hair. 
 The rein-deer is then very lean, and its skin is thin, and 
 little worth ; but in autumn, their hide is thick, hairy, and 
 lined with fat. This alternate increase and diminution of 
 their flesh and hair, enables them to bear both the heat of 
 summer, and the intense cold of winter. They are very 
 cleanly, delicate creatures, and their flesh is tender, and 
 well flavoured. In summer they crop the fine tender grass 
 in the valleys, and in winter pick the white moss growing in 
 the clefts of rocks, from under the snow. 
 
 BaaUs River was formerly the principal resort of rein-deer, 
 and the Greenlanders used to unite in one general hunting 
 match to kill them. The women and children surrounded a 
 whole district, sticking up logs of wood to look like men, 
 when they were defective in numbers ; and then proceeding 
 in a straight line, drove all the timid animals into a narrow 
 space in the centre, where they were easily killed by the 
 hunters. Another way was for the women to chase them in 
 great numbers into a narrow bay, where they were pierced 
 by the men in their kajaks, with harpoons and arrows. Since 
 the introduction of powder and shot into Greenland, they 
 have been thinned very much ; yet many of the natives spend 
 their best summer months in hunting them, in order to pro- 
 cure skins for extraordinary occasions. 
 
 The farther we advance northward, the fewer rein-deer 
 are met with. Several are killed every year on Disko Island, 
 which circumstance has given occasion to the fable, that a 
 gigantic Greenlander severed this piece of land frojn Baai's 
 River, and towed it out to sea by a rope tied to his kajak ; 
 and farther, that he intended to have united it with the main 
 land, and was prevented by a pregnant woman, who Was 
 tempted by curiosity to peep out of her tent. In proof of 
 this absurdity, they show the holes in the rocks, through wliicli 
 he drew the rope. 
 
TO THE NOftTH POLE. 199 
 
 In June, 1794, two of the Moravian missionaries liaving 
 gone to a neighbouiing island in search of drift-wood, were 
 completely surrounded by the ice, and confined to this dreary 
 spot for upwards of a fortnight. Their fellow- missionaries in 
 New Herrnhut, alarmed fey their long absence, and fearing 
 that they might be in want of provisions, repeatedly sent 
 Greenlanders to gain intelligence of their situation ; but the} 
 found it impossible to penetrate with their kajaks through tha 
 ice. "The prisoners, meanwhile, had the good fortune to 
 meet with a plentiful supply of fish, which freed them from 
 the apprehension of perishing by hunger, and they at length 
 made their wav through the ice, though at the risk of their 
 lives, to the main-land. But here they found themselves 
 at a considerable distance from the settlement, and had 
 to perform a fatiguing journey over high hills, and down 
 abrupt valleys, before they arrived at New Herrnhut. hav- 
 ing been absent a whole month. 
 
 Dangerous as these excursions were to the missionaries, 
 they were at the same time absolutely necessary, their com - 
 fort during the winter depending on the drift-wood they col- 
 lected, as the quantity of wood found in Greenland, in a 
 growing state, is very insignificant. A scarcity of this article 
 oould not therefore but occasion the greatest distress, as was 
 the case in New Herrnhut, in 1793, when the shoals of loose 
 ice prevented them from laying in their usual stock for fuel. 
 During the three coldest months, they were obliged to have 
 recourse to the disagreeable expedient of heating their rooms 
 by train-oil lamps, after the manner of the Greenlanders, 
 reserving the little wood they had left for culinary use. 
 
 Though the pursuits of the natives inure them to hardships, 
 and their uncommon dexterity enables them to brave every 
 shape and front every danger, yet they frequently fall vic- 
 tims to the rigours of the clime, and are still more frequently 
 delivered from situations of the utmost peril, they scarcely 
 know how. 
 
 Two Greenlanders belonging to Lichtenau, returning from 
 
5;00 parry's second voyage 
 
 catching seals, found their passage impeded by a new coat of 
 ice, with which the intense frost had almost instantaneously 
 overspread the surface of the sea, of such a thickness, that 
 their oars were soon rendered useless, and they saw no hope 
 of extricating their kajaks from the fragments which jammed 
 them in on every side. Their desperate situation was noticed 
 from the shore, but it was impossible to come to their assist- 
 ance. At last a rising gale drove them out of sight, together 
 with the ice-field in which they were embayed, leaving their 
 friends to suffer all the tortures of the most exquisite suspence. 
 Fortunately, however, they reached a piece of old ice, the 
 only one remaining in the hay, where there was barely room 
 for themselves and their kajaks. On to this they scrambled, 
 and reposed themselves as well as they could during the 
 piercing cold of the night. In the morning the new ice had 
 become so firm that it would bear their weight, and they 
 walked home in safety. 
 
 The very next year, a large party in a woman's boat met 
 with a similar disaster, in the same place and accompanied 
 with nearly the same circumstances. Being overtaken by a 
 hurricane, and unable to make the land, they took refuge on 
 a mass of floating ice, drawing up their boat after them with 
 great difficulty. Thus situated, they drifted out to sea with 
 the wind, and were already passing the last island, when the 
 fury of the storm abated, on which they ventured to launch 
 their boat and gained the land. 
 
 Caleb, a native assistant of Lichtenfels was about the same 
 time obliged to spend two days and a night in the open air 
 when the winter's cold was most intense. At night-time he 
 drew his kajak upon the ice, and slept in it in a sitting pos- 
 ture, while the thermometer stood at zero of Fahrenheit. 
 On his return home he merely complained of thirst, though 
 he had tasted no food during the whole time of his absence. 
 But such privations are of common occurrence among these 
 hard natives. 
 
 Another Greenlander had nearly lost his life by an unex- 
 
TO THE 'North polk. 201 
 
 pccted attack from an animal of the whale tribe, to which he 
 had approached too near with his kajak. The fish by a sud- 
 den spring seized the fore-part of the skin-boat with his jaws, 
 raised it completely out of the water, and after upsetting his 
 enemy retreated into the deep. Two persons who happened 
 to be at no great distance, hastened to the spot, and helped 
 him to recover his balance, so that he escaped without any 
 other injury than the alarm inspired by so unusual a ren- 
 contre. 
 
 But what claims our peculiar attention in this brief re- 
 view of the hardships and casualties to which life is subject in 
 these arctic regions, is the imminent risk incurred by the mis- 
 sionaries themselves in their passage to and from their sta:- 
 tions. The voyage of Mr. Grillich to Europe on business of 
 the mission, is one out of several instances which furnish 
 this remark. He left Greenland in October, 1798, with a 
 ship belonging to Julianahaab, but after plying about for five 
 weeks in the lower part of the strait, the vessel was so much 
 damaged by the drift-ice, that she was obliged to return. In 
 Feb. 1799, he again set sail in the same ship, but the quantity 
 of drift-ice wa* greater than before, and hampered them per- 
 petually from the 18th to the 25th of that month. At length 
 the captain finding the ship so clogged and damaged that he 
 could not hope to save her, resolved to quit her with all the 
 property on board. On the last mentioned day, therefore, 
 the whole ship's company began their march over the ice, 
 dragging a boat after them. They spent two nights in the 
 open air, and had no means of quenching their thirst, but by 
 drinking melted snow. On the third morning they came to 
 open water, in which they launched their boat, and sailing 
 five leagues, again reached the barren coast of Greenland. 
 Scarcely had they landed when a most tremendous storm 
 arose with snow and sleet, so that had they been still at sea, 
 they must all have perished. But they were now in a very 
 disastrous situation, without any food or covering for the 
 night. On the following day, however, it pleased God to 
 
 P. V. 9 D D 
 
202 parry's second voyage 
 
 send them a favourable wind, with which they sailed fivtJ 
 leagues and reached the colony at Fredericshaab in safety. 
 After a further detention of a month in this place, Mr. Gril- 
 lich once more reached Lichtenfels, and finally arrived in 
 the October following at Copenhagen with the ship from 
 Godhaab. 
 
 Some years afterwards, in 1804, the missionary C. F. 
 Rudolph and his wife experienced a still more remarkable 
 preservation in an attempt to return to Europe, after a ser- 
 vice of twenty- six years in Greenland. 
 
 They left Lichtenau, June 18th, and went on board the 
 same evening at Julianahaab, the nearest colony. The ship's 
 company consisted of twenty-six persons, including the crew 
 of a vessel stranded in the preceding year near Staatenhuk. 
 They had on board a cargo of 700 barrels of blubber, but no 
 peltry, owing to the number of rats with which the vessel 
 swarmed. After lying a month in this bay, blocked up by 
 the ice, the ship weighed anchor, and wore her way with 
 much difficulty to Dutch Harbour, about two miles below 
 the colony. Here they were again detained for several weeks 
 by the southerly winds, which drove the ice constantly to- 
 wards the shore. 
 
 Intelligence at last arriving from Julianahaab, that the sea 
 was free from ice off Nunarsuk, the captain again weighed 
 anchor, though appearances were far from being favourable. 
 The wind was S.E. and very high ; it rained heavily, and 
 there was still much ice in sight. During the whole night 
 they sailed continually between huge fields which made a 
 roaring noise ; and the sea being rough, the vessel rolled ex- 
 cessively. To secure her in some degree from the shocks to 
 which she was exposed, large pieces of ice were fastened to 
 her sides with grappling irons. In this manner they forced 
 their way for three days and nights through the icy masses 
 vphich surrounded them. 
 
 ' y Early on the 25th of August,'* writes Mr. Rudolph in 
 Ws journal, ** a storm arose from the south-west, which drove 
 
TO THE NORTH POLK. 203 
 
 the ice-moun tains close to our ship. The scene was awful 
 and horrible; we expected momently that we should be 
 crushed to pieces. As she drove with close-reefed sails before 
 the wind through a multitude of smaller flaws, she struck 
 upon a rock, from which, however, she got off without in- 
 jury. But soon after, she ran her bows \i:ith such force 
 against a large ice-field, that several planks started at once, 
 and the water rushed rapidly into her. The captain immedi- 
 ately jumped into the small boat with part of the crew, and 
 having landed them on a large field of ice, returned for ano- 
 ther party. The rest were employed in unloosing the large 
 boat, with the intention of saving themselves in it ; for the 
 ship was filling fast with water, and perceptibly going down 
 on her starboard side, till, by the time the boat was hoisted 
 out, only the larboard gunwale appeared above water. The 
 captain and all the sailors having left the j;hip, my wife and I 
 were left alone above our knees in water, holding fast by the 
 shrouds. At last Captain Kiar, of the stranded vessel, came 
 to our assistance, saying, * I cannot possibly forsake these 
 good people.* By his friendly aid we got into the boat, and 
 had our liammock and bed secured. Several tons of ship- 
 biscuit, and other necessaries, with all the papers and letters 
 on board, were also lowered into the boat. 
 
 " We now loft the wreck, being about twenty-eight miles 
 distant from Lichtenau, and about a league from the neigh- 
 bouring headland of Nunarsuk. Our boat was heavily laden 
 with men and baggage, and had already taken in much water. 
 The sea broke over us continually, and the steersman fearing 
 that the boat would sink, made for the nearest island. It 
 proved to be a rough pointed and naked rock, deeply exca- 
 vated in many places by the dashing of the breakers. After 
 ascending to some height, however, we found a small spot 
 covered with low grass. We now endeavoured to land our 
 provisions, but the waves beat frightfully against the rock, 
 and tossed the boat up and down so furiously, that she broke 
 from her moorings, and was hurried out to sea, Eight men 
 
 D d 2 
 
204 TO THE NORTH POLE. 
 
 immediately pushed off in the small boat in the hope of reco- 
 vering her. They succeeded in overtaking her, and four of 
 them instantly leaped on board, but the fury of the storm, 
 which whirled the waves like smoke through the air, baffled 
 all their efforts to regain the landing-place ; they were driven 
 to the other side of the island amongst heaps of ice and foam- 
 ing breakers, and we now beheld with horror, both our boats 
 crushed to pieces ; nor did we entertain the least doubt that 
 all the eight sailors had perished, as it appeared impossible 
 that^they could get over the ice to shore, while the waves rose 
 so high. All our hopes now vanished, and the whole com- 
 pany gave themselves up to loud cries and lamentations, see- 
 ing no other prospect than that of miserably perishing by 
 hunger on this naked rock. In the evening we lay down to 
 rest, close together, without tent or covering. We were 
 wet through, and lay in a pool of water ; for as it rained hea- 
 vily and incessantly during the whole of this and the following 
 day and night, the water flowed down in torrents from the 
 summit of the rock. 
 
 ^* Aug. 26, we saw three men walking on the shore, op- 
 posite to the spot where the boats had been wrecked, and 
 concluded that these were the only survivors of the party. 
 They fixed the only oar they had saved in the ground, as a 
 signal, and tied a handkerchief to it. 
 
 ** Aug. 27, the captains, their mates, and the greatest 
 part of the crew, prepared to make an attempt to gain the 
 shoi*e, by walking across the ice. By leaping from piece to 
 piece, and drawing them nearer when they were at too great a 
 distance, with leather thongs and hooks, they, with the ut- 
 most difficulty, accomplished their object. We willingly 
 Jvould have ventured along with them ; but having fasted for 
 two days, we were conscious that we could not bear the fa- 
 tigues of such a journey. We were now alone on the rock 
 with the ship's cook, whom weakness likewise prevented from 
 following his comrades. In this dreadful situation, our only 
 h<^e and trust was in the Lord, our A.lmighty Saviour. We 
 
TO THK NORTH POLE. 205 
 
 were comforted in believing that He watches over his children, 
 and that without His will, not a hair of their head will fall to 
 the ground. Whenever the sun shone, we employed our- 
 selves in drying the few things we had saved from the wreck ; 
 but we were at last so enfeebled by hunger, that we were 
 scarcely able to do even that, having nothing to support life 
 but fresh water, collected in the holes and crannies of the 
 rock. All day long we looked out towards the opposite 
 f^'nores, in the hope of descrying the Greenlanders coming to 
 our rescue ; but no Greenlanders came, and we gave way to 
 the dreadful supposition, that the ship's crew had perished on 
 the road. The thoughts of ending our lives on this barren 
 rock, and lying here unburied, to glut the maw of ravens and 
 sea-fowl, which were constantly hovering around us, and 
 seemed impatient for their prey, troubled us for a short inter- 
 val ; but the consolations of our Saviour supported us, and 
 we soon felt entirely resigned to his will 
 
 ** At length, on the 2nd of September, Sister Rudolph 
 happening to raise herself up from the hard couch on which 
 they sought repose for their emacijxted limbs, espied two 
 Greenlanders in their kajaks making towards them, and 
 hailing them. A new life now seemed to animate their limbs ; 
 they climbed to the summit of the rock, and shouted with all 
 "Vlieir might to make themselves heard. It appeared that these 
 Greenlanders, who, according to promise, had been dis- 
 patched by the captain to bring them off, had been roving 
 about the island the whole day, and seeing no person upon 
 it, were just about to return, concluding that they were dead. 
 From them the missionaries received a few herrings and some 
 seals* fat, after being without food for nine days. But as 
 the Greenlanders had no boat with them besides their kajaks, 
 they were obliged to remain on the rock till the evening of 
 the next day, when a woman's boat arrived for them. On 
 the 4th they came to an island where they found the greater 
 part of the ship's crew, and the party who had been wrecked 
 in the two boats, with the exception of one man. These 
 
^806 parry's second voyage 
 
 latter had suffered extreme hardships, as was evident in their 
 appearance ; for they were quite emaciated, and had larjre 
 red spots in their eyes. 
 
 ** They arrived at the colony of Juiianahaab, on the 8th, 
 and after recruiting their strength, proceeded in a few days 
 to Lichtenau, where they were received with the most affec- 
 tionate welcome, and with heartfelt gratitude to God, who 
 had so wondrously wrought out their deliverance. Having 
 remained here till the following May, they set out in a Green- 
 land boat for Lichtenfels, where they arrived, after a peril- 
 ous voyage of four hundred miles along the coast, in the end 
 of June." 
 
 A party of Christian Greenlanders, having celebrated 
 Christmas at the settlement of Lichtenau, were returning to 
 one of the out-places, where they resided, according to an 
 order of government, intended to promote the interests of 
 trade. They set out in a skin-boat, or umiak, in January, 
 1813, when the thermometer was twelve degrees under 
 Reaumer's freezing point. Before they had proceeded far 
 the floating ice encountered them, closed upon them, and 
 crushed their boat to pieces. The party escaped upon a 
 large field of ice, and drove about for four-and-twenty hours, 
 when, during the night, a violent storm arose from the north, 
 which carried them out to sea. Here they must have perished, 
 as nothing more was heard of them. They were seventeen 
 in number, old and young. 
 
 A Greenlander being beset by the ice, and in danger of 
 being crushed to death, was obliged to jump upon a large 
 flake, and drag his kajak with a seal after him for three miles, 
 frequently breaking in up to the arm-pits. Another time, a 
 woman's boat split in two ; but four kajaks instantly rowed 
 up to the spot, and lashing themselves two and two together, 
 conveyed the female party safe to land. As a missionary was 
 going with some Greenlanders in an umiak to the Sound, 
 after tliey had rowed a considerable way, their boat began 
 to sink, and their danger was observed by those on shore. 
 
TO THE NOHTH POLE. 207 
 
 who immediately sent lo apprize them of their situation. It 
 was only with the utmost exertion, that they effected a timely 
 landing. On unloading the boat, they found a large hole in 
 the bottom, which they sewed up, and put out again to sea. 
 A widower, on the point of a new marriage, went out to 
 catch some fish for his wedding-dinner. On his return, he 
 overset : but as he was not far from land, he crept out of his 
 kajak, laid himself flat upon it, and committing himself to 
 the mercy of the waves, was driven by them to the shore. 
 
 Four of the brethren, in a dreadful snow-storm, fell among 
 the driving ice, and could neither get backwards nor for- 
 wards. After a long and wearisome toiling, they at length 
 made the land, but the waves were so impetuous and bois- 
 terous, that they could not go on shore without being dashed 
 to pieces against the rocks. They only wished that one might 
 escape to tell the fate of the rest. At last, however, the 
 tide dispersed the pieces of ice in such a manner, that they 
 could proceed on their way, and they arrived safe and well at 
 Lichtenfels. 
 
 Two Greenlanders, dispatched with letters to Frederics- 
 haab, related on theur return, that they were obliged to sit 
 two nights in the kajaks upon the ice, which at first kept con- 
 tinually breaking, till at last they met with a firm piece. 
 During the third night, they arrived at a house. Had they 
 not met with this asylum, they must have perished with thirst, 
 Slaving had no water for two days and nights. The sweat 
 uccasioned by their severe labour, had penetrated through 
 their clothes, and was instantly congealed into ice by the ex- 
 treme cold. Their kajaks were much damaged, and one per- 
 son had his hand frozen. 
 
 As Petei Hudberg, one of the brethren, was crossing a 
 pond, the frozen snow gave way under him, and he fell into 
 the water. Having a belt round his body, his fur coat ex- 
 panding on the surface, held him up, till he could reach the 
 bottom with his long leaping staff. He then threw himself 
 back wards upon the firm ice, and succeeded in gaining the land. 
 
20b parry's second voyage 
 
 Jonas, a lively child, about three years old, lost its life 
 under a great floe of ice, driven on shore, behind which 
 some Greenlanders had seated themselves to bask in the sun. 
 They had all left the ice, and the mother was gone to fetch 
 her child a draught of water, when the heat of the sun broke 
 off a large piece, which crushed him to death. 
 
 In case of family quarrels amongst the natives, one of the 
 parties, but more commonly the man, runs away into the wil- 
 derness, and lives and dies in voluntary seclusion from hu- 
 man society. Abia, an inhabitant of Lichtenfels, sud- 
 denly disappeared, in November 1785, and as his empty 
 kajak was found some time after, cast on the shore, the ge- 
 neral belief was, that he had perished at sea. Nearly ten 
 years afterwards, a Greenlander affirmed, that in a solitary 
 excursion to catch eider- fowl, he had seen the long-lost 
 Abia, sitting on a hill, and had conversed with him. He 
 told him his name, and enquired after his wife and children, 
 adding, ** that he had withdrawn from the society of men, 
 merely on his wife's account. The first winter had passed 
 very heavily, but time rendered his solitude more bearable, 
 and he now felt perfectly at ease. Having provided him- 
 self largely with powder and shot, when he went away, and 
 using it sparingly, he had still a store remaining. He 
 thought much of his children, and of the Saviour, and trusted 
 in his mercy. He had always cherished the wish to speak 
 with one human being and only one before his death ; that 
 wish was now satisfied, and he would never again suffer him- 
 self to be seen by man." After making this solemn decla- 
 ration, he beckoned the intruder to be gone. He was co- 
 vered with rein- deer pelts, coarsely tied together, and had 
 on a cap of hare-skins, his boots had the appearance of be- 
 ing netted. 
 
 Minnte and consistent as this statement appears, the mis - 
 sionaries however express some doubt whether this interview, 
 which rests on the testimony of a single person, may not 
 have been the delusive presentation of a dream. There is 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE, 209 
 
 not the same ground for distrust, with regard to another 
 convert, Peter, who eloped from the same settlement, iuto 
 the desert, and is said to have been seen several times in the 
 summer of 1797, but could be induced by no persuasions to 
 return. 
 
 An abortive project of the same kind is related in the diary 
 of New Herrnhut for 1803, and the passage merits no- 
 tice, as being an agreeable proof of the sincerity and open- 
 hearted disposition of the converts. One of the native bre- 
 thren from Kangek, called upon the missionaries to confess, 
 as he said, his abominable intentions. He stated that on ac- 
 count of many quarrels which had late occurred in his family, 
 and of which he owned his own inconsiderate language 
 to have been the cause, he had resolved to forsake them, 
 and escape into the wilderness. With this intention, he set 
 off in his kajak, and spent some nights in a lonely place : 
 ** But," continued he, " as I was about to proceed to a still 
 greater distance, I thought, oh, how happy are those peo- 
 ple whom the Lord himself reproves and chastens when they 
 are going astray ? Oh ! that I were one of them ! As 1 
 was rowing along, all at once the sea seemed to assume a 
 most dreadful appearance, and with all my exertions, I 
 coulU not get forward. My kajak appeared to be fixed to 
 the bottom, though I was in the deepest part of the bay. I 
 was frightened, turned about, and immediately rowed to the 
 shore. Here I passed a sorrowful night, and as soon as it 
 was day, returned with shame and repentance to my family. 
 Now 1 thank our Saviour most fervently, that he delivered 
 me from the ways of destruction. Never more will I fol- 
 low the impulse of my own heart ; but he shall be my only 
 Lord and master." 
 
 The natives lead outwardly a pretty orderly life, and it 
 rarely occurs that any thing unbecoming is perceived in theil 
 conversation or intercourse with each other. The women 
 are seldom guilty of incontinence, with the exception of young 
 widows, and those divorced from their husbands. Such fre- 
 
 P. V. 9 E E 
 
SIO parry's second VOYAtJE 
 
 quently push their fortune by selling their illegitimate off- 
 spring to the childless, or by adoptions into other families^ 
 but seldom marry a second time. Single persons of both 
 sexes have rarely any connection ; and a maid would take it 
 as an affront were a young fellow to offer her a pinch of snufF 
 in company. 
 
 A man seldom thinks of marrying till he is twenty years 
 of age. About this time of life he generally pitches upon 
 a woman nearly of his own age, and informs his parents or 
 nearest relations upon whom he has fixed his choice. The 
 dowry of the bride, which consists in nothing more than her 
 clothes, knife, lamp, and at most a stone-kettle, is not so 
 much regarded as her cleverness in sewing and managing 
 household affairs. She, on the other hand, looks chiefly to 
 his skill as a hunter. The parents are not long about giv- 
 ing their consent, for they leave their children, and espe- 
 cially their sons, free to follow their own inclinations in every 
 thing. Two old women are immediately dispatched to ne- 
 gociate matters with the parents of the bride. They at first 
 say nothing of the marriage contract, and speak highly in 
 praise of the bridegroom and his family. The damsel di- 
 rectly falls into the greatest apparent consternation, and 
 runs out of doors tearing her bunch of hair ; for single wo- 
 men always affect the utmost bashfulness and aversion to any 
 proposals of marriage, lest they should lose their reputation 
 for modesty, though their destined husbands be previously 
 well assured of their acquiescence. However their reluct- 
 ance is not always dissembled, but often really produces 
 surprising effects. Some females, when a husband is pro- 
 posed to them, will fall into a swoon, elope to a desert place 
 or cut off their hair, which among Greenlanders it esteemed 
 a mark of the deepest despondency. In the latter case they 
 are seldom troubled with farther addresses. This horror of 
 matrimony may possibly originate in the frequent example, 
 of divorced wives and overbearing concubines. 
 
 During their daughter's bashful fit, the parents tacitly 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. *M.l 
 
 comply with the proposal, without any express approbai- 
 tion. The women then ^o in search of the refractory maid, 
 and drag her forcibly into her suitor's house, where she sits 
 for several days quite disconsolate, with dishevelled hair, 
 and refuses nourishment. When friendly exhortations are 
 unavailing, she is compelled by force and even blows to re- 
 ceive her husband. Should she elope, she is brought back 
 and treated more harshly than before. 
 
 Some parents, however, provide a settlement for their 
 children, or betroth them in childhood, confirming t^e con- 
 tract by mutual pledges. The parties then cohabit as soon 
 as they please, without any ceremony. Sometimes a mar- 
 ried man will drag another wife home by force, whom he 
 finds alone or at a dance. In the latter case he must pro- 
 vide himself with seconds, lest a scuffle should ensue, which 
 however seldom happens. 
 
 First cousins or strangers adopted into one family and 
 educated together, seldom intermarry. On the other hand 
 examples occur, though they are rare, of a- man mar- 
 rying two sisters, or a mother and her d.iughter. Such 
 conduct draws down general odium upon the parties con- 
 cerned. 
 
 Polgamy is not common among them, as scarce one out 
 of twenty has two wives. Those who marry several are 
 not despised, but merely regarded as clever providers ; 
 and since it is esteemed a disgrace to have no children, 
 and especially no son to support their declining age, such 
 childless persons as are competent to maintain several, 
 will seldom restrict themselves to one. They indeed, in 
 such a case, expose themselves to the criticism of their 
 neighbours, whether their motive was genuine zeal for 
 the welfare of their family, or only a lascivious disposition. 
 Those men who marry three or four wives, or women who 
 cohabit with several husbands, are subjected to universal 
 censure. Many women conceive a disgust, for polygamy, 
 especialH since they have heard that it is prohibited in 
 
 E e 2 
 
2J2 parry's second voyagh 
 
 christian countries: others encourage their husbands to it, 
 or else purchase the conjurations of an Angekok to obtain 
 issue. 
 
 Their connubial intercourse is conducted with tolerable 
 decorum. If any infidelity occurs in the wife, the injured 
 husband does not seek present punishment, but smothers 
 his resentment, till he has an opporti^aity of revenging him- 
 self in a similar way. The disagreement indeed seldom 
 passes over without contumelious expressions on both 
 sides, and frequently costs the wife a black eye, which Lf 
 rather surprising, as they are not at all quarrelsome or ad- 
 dicted to blows. The marriage contract is not so irrevoca- 
 ble, that the husband may not divorce his wife, especially 
 if she has no children. Little ceremony is used on the occa- 
 sion. He only gives her a sour look, marches out of doors 
 and absents him{*elf for a few days. She immediately 
 takes the hint, packs up her effects, and withdraws to her 
 relations, demeaning herself in future as discreetly as pos- 
 sible, in order to chagrin him, and bring scandal upon his 
 conduct. 
 
 Sometimes a wife absconds, because she cannot put up 
 with the behaviour of her associates in house-keepings 
 This mostly arises from the husband's mother exercising an 
 undue superiority, and treating his wife as little better than 
 her maid. It rarely happens that a separation takes place 
 when they have children, and especially sons, who are 
 their greatest treasure, and best security against future 
 want. Should a divorce take place, the children always 
 follow their mother, and, even after her decease, never can 
 be prevailed upon to assist their father even in his old age. 
 Instances have occurred in which either husband or wife, 
 and especially the former, have fled into the wilderness, 
 lived many years in the cleft of a rock, upon the uncertain 
 produce of the chace, and shunned the society of men till 
 death. No one will venture alone near (he residence of 
 such a recluse, consideriiig their lives in danger within his 
 
TO THK TsORTH POLE. 218 
 
 reach. Separations most frequently take place between 
 young couples, who had not duly weighed the consequences 
 of marriage. The older they grow, the more lovingly they 
 treat each other. 
 
 When a man*s only wife dies, he adorns his person, 
 house, and children, as well as his means will allow. Par- 
 ticularly his kajak and darts, which are his principal valua- 
 bles, must be in the best repair, in order to attract the 
 notice of the females. He however absents himself from all 
 parties of pleasure, and never marries again before the lapse 
 of a year, though he may have young children, and no one 
 to care for them. If he happens to have a concubine, she 
 immediately occupies the place of the deceased, after join- 
 ing in the lamentation of the surviving relatives, and leading 
 the funeral dance ; her countenance suffused with a flood 
 of crocodile tears, all the while betraying her inward joy- 
 fulness of heart. She extols the virtues of the dead, caresses 
 her children more than her own, and laments over their 
 loss; but meanwhile so artfully suggests improvements in 
 the household management, that a stranger has reason to 
 be surprised at the insinuating address of this otherwise 
 unpolished people. 
 
 The women are not very prolific. Their children seldom 
 exceed three or four in number, and are born, on an average, 
 one every two or three yeais. When told of the fecundity 
 of the Europeans, they compare them contemptuously to 
 their dogs. Twins, monstrous births, and miscarriages are 
 very rare. In general the mother goes on with her usual 
 occupations, till a few hours before her accouchement, and 
 resumes them very soon after the child is borii. The pa- 
 rents or midwife give it a name, taken from some animal, 
 utensil, part of the body, or deceased relations. They pre- 
 fer that of its grand-parents, whose memory they thereby 
 wish to perpetuate. But if the latter died or were killed 
 early in life, they avoid all mention of their names, in or- 
 der not to renew the pain occasioned by their death. Nay, 
 
2L4 parry's second voyage 
 
 if a child has been called after a person, since deceased^. 
 they compassionately change the name for another. It 
 also frequently happens that a man gets so many appella- 
 tions from various ridiculous or shameful occurrences, that 
 he hardly knovrs which to adopt, being determined on all 
 occasions to choose the most honourable. 
 
 Their fondness for their children is great. The mother 
 carries them while walking, and doing all sorts of work, 
 upon her back, and suckles them three or four years, hav- 
 ing no other nourishment delicate enough for an infant. 
 Many children die when they are forced to make room for 
 another at the breast, being unable to digest the coarse food 
 substituted for milk. Should a child be deprived of its mo- 
 ther in early infancy, it must inevitably follow her to the 
 grave. 
 
 Their children grow up without an^ chastisement either 
 by words or blows. Indeed severe punishment is not so 
 necessary with their children, who are very quiet, sheepish, 
 and not at all mischievously inclined. Besides, their dispo- 
 sition is such, that in case they cannot be prevailed upon 
 to do any thing by entreaties or arguments, they would 
 rather suffer themselves to be beaten to death than com- 
 pelled to it. Whether this be their natural temper, or the 
 effect of an unrestrained will, it is difficult to decide. 
 
 The interval between their second and fifth year in gene- 
 ral forms an exception to the above remarks. They are 
 then very restless, crying, scratching, and striking all that 
 come in their way ; but should a mother suffer her patience 
 to be exhausted and strike her child, especially if it be a 
 son, who from his birth is regarded as the future lord of the 
 house, she would ensure her husband's resentment. The 
 nearer their children arrive at years of maturity, the more 
 quiet and tractable they become. Very little of duplicity, 
 self-will, or other gross failings, is observable in their con- 
 duct. They follow their parents willingly, because it suits 
 their inctinations, but expect kind trt-atment in return, and 
 
TU THE NORTH POLE. 215 
 
 if required to perform something against their will, an- 
 swet calmly, *' I will not do it." Ingratitude m grown- 
 up children towards their old decrepid parents, is scarcely 
 -ever exemplified among them. Indeed their character 
 seems in most respects to form an exact opposite to that 
 of children born in civilized countries, whose inward de- 
 pravity becomes more and more developed as they advance 
 in years. 
 
 As soon as a boy gets the full use of his limbs, his father 
 puts a small bow and arrows into his hands, and makes 
 him practise shooting or throwing stones at a mark on the 
 sea-shore. He also gives him a knife to cut toys for 
 his amusement. When his son is ten years old, he fur- 
 nishes him with a kajak, that he may exercise himself in 
 company with other boys in rowing, recovering his position 
 when overset, and catching birds or fishes. In his fifteenth 
 year he must attend his father to the seal fishery. Of the 
 iirst seal which he catches, an entertainment is given to the 
 neighbours and inmates of the family, during which the 
 young adventurer relates how he accomplished his exploit. 
 The guests express their surprise at his dextenty, and 
 praise the flesh as peculiarly excellent; and the females 
 afterwards begin to choose a wife for him. Those who are 
 unable to catch seals are held in the greatest contempt, and 
 must live like the women upon ulks which they catch on the 
 ice, muscles, and dried herrings. Many instances occur 
 of those who are absolutely unable to attain the art. When 
 a young man is twenty years of age he must be able to 
 manufacture his own kajak and fishing tackles, and to equip 
 himself with every thing necessary for a Greeulander. 
 Some years after he marries, but fixes his residence near 
 that of his parents during their life-time, employing his mo- 
 ther as housekeeper. 
 
 The girls do nothing till they are fourteen, but sing, 
 dance and romp about, except perhaps caring for a child, 
 or fetching water. They are then employed in sewing, 
 
246 PARR^S SECOND VOYACK 
 
 cooking, and dressing leather. When they acquire sufli 
 cient strength they must learn to row in a woman*s boat 
 and help to build houses. 
 
 All grown-up women ^pend a life of slavery. While 
 they remain with their parents they are well off; but from 
 twenty years of age till death, their life is one series of 
 anxieties, wretchedness, and toil. When their father dies, 
 they inherit nothing, and must serve in other families, where 
 they indeed do not lack a sufficiency of food, but are badly 
 off for decent cloathing. For want of this, especially if 
 they are not handsome, or clever at their work, they must 
 remain single. They never can make choice of a husband ; 
 and should any one marry them, they live for the first year, 
 especially if without children, in continual dread of a di- 
 vorce. If this takes place, they must enter into service 
 again, and are often forced to barter their chastity in ex- 
 change for the necessaries of life. Even if a wife remains 
 with her husband, she must serve as his mother's maid, 
 and often puts up with a blow in the face, besides perhaps 
 being forced to pay her xjourt to several other mistresses. 
 When he dies she has no other jointure than what she 
 brought with her, and must serve more submissively in ano- 
 ther family on account of her children, than a single maid 
 who can go away when she pleases. But if a widow hap- 
 pens to have grown-up sons, her situation is often prefer- 
 able to that of a married woman, because she has their do- 
 mestic concerns entirely at her disposal. Very old women 
 generally pass for witches, and sometimes have no objec- 
 tion to this reputation, as it is attended with present profit: 
 but most of them come to a lamentable end, as, upon the 
 least suspicion of having bewitched some one, they aro 
 stoned, precipitated into the ocean, or stabbed and cut to 
 pieces ; and should they even escape this suspicion, if they 
 become burdensome, they are often either buried alive, or 
 compelled to throw themselves into the sea. The pre- 
 
TO THF. NORTH POLE. 217 
 
 tended motive of their relatives for such glaring impiety is 
 compassion, but their real one is avarice. 
 
 In spite of all their cares, toils, and vexation, the women 
 commonly arrive at a greater age than the men, who, by 
 spending most of their time at sea, in snow and rain, in the 
 severest winter, as well as during the heat of the summer, 
 and by alternate fasting and gluttony, as they generally 
 pine themselves during the day, but gormandize so much 
 the more at night, they are so debilitated that they seldom 
 attain the age of fifty. Besides, as many perish in the waves, 
 the population of Greenland contains a greater proportion ol 
 females. The women frequently live eighty years and up- 
 wards. At this age, those among them who are not condemned 
 for witchcraft uniformly become instruments of mischief, 
 betaking themselves to lyin^, slandering, or match-making, 
 to gain a livelihood; and above all, instil their ridiculous 
 superstitions into the minds of young persons, thereby pre- 
 venting them from a rational inquiry into the truths of Chris- 
 tianity. 
 
 The method the Greenlanders make use of in dressing 
 leather for their clothes, boots, and shoes, which is the chief 
 employment of the women, is briefly as follows. For their 
 bairy seal-skin dress, they scrape the skin thin, soak it 
 twenty-four hours in the urine tub to extract the oil, and 
 then stretch it with pegs on the grass to dry. In the subse- 
 quent operation of dressing, it is sprinkled with urine, 
 smoothed with pumice stone, and softened by friction be- 
 tween the hands. The sole-leather is steeped several days 
 in the urine-tub. They then scrape off the loosened hair with 
 a knife or pull it out with their teeth, and lay the skin to dry. 
 The leather called erisek, of which they manufacture the 
 legs of boots, and the upper leather of shoes, is prepared 
 nearly in the same way as the kapitek, but is scraped thin- 
 ner. Of this they also make the great coats, which the 
 men draw over their usual dress when they go a fishing. It 
 is indeed soon soaked through and through by the salt-water 
 P. V. 10. F F 
 
218 PARTRY'S SKCOISD VOVAC-E 
 
 and rain, but keeps the under-dress dry, and is often worn 
 by European sailors. The smooth black skins (ervgak) 
 worn on shore, besides Undergoing the abovementioned pre- 
 paration, receive an additional rubbing, which renders them 
 more pliable, but at the same time unfit to keep out water 
 or for the manufacture of shoes and boots. 
 
 To cover their boats, they choose the strongest and thick- 
 est seal-skins. They leave a quantity of blubber on the in- 
 side, roll them up, and either sit upon them several weeks> 
 or lay them under some grass in the sun, till the hair be- 
 comes quite loose. Then after being softened by lying a 
 l*ew days in the salt-water, they are found ready for covering 
 women's boats and kajaks. In doing this they draw the 
 borders of the skin together with their teeth, and then sew 
 them up, afterwards daubing the seams with old seal's blub- 
 ber instead of pitch, to prevent their leaking. Great cau- 
 tion must be used not to injure the surface of the leather, be- 
 cause if this is in the least damaged, the salt water soon 
 corrodes it into holes. Pieces of waste leather they scrape 
 thin, and lay them on the snow, or hang them up to bleach, 
 sometimes coloring them with fir-bark, which they strip off 
 branches driven near the shore by the waves. This opera- 
 tion is performed with the teeth. The skins of birds are first 
 detached from the head, and then drawn over the body. Af- 
 ter scraping off^ the fat with a muscle shell, they hand them 
 about by way of a collation to guests of respectability, to chew 
 between meals. They are afterwards soaked in the urine-tub, 
 dried and eaten. The skin on the backs of sea-fowl is ma- 
 nufactured into a thin, light under- dress, and that which co» 
 vers their bellies into warm winter clothing. Of the skin of ^ 
 the neck, they make fine dresses for extraordinary occasion^ 
 turning the feathers outside. 
 
 The diff^erent ofiices of husband and wife are far more 
 clearly distinguished among them, than among Europeans* 
 Each knows his own business, and never interferes in the 
 others affairs. The man makes his hunting and fishing im- 
 olements, and the frame work of the boats, and his wife 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 219^ 
 
 covers them with leather. He hunts and fishes, but having 
 brought his booty to land, troubles himself no further about 
 it; for it' would be a stigma on his character, if he so much 
 as drew a seal out of the water. The women perform the 
 offices of butchers, cooks, tanners, sempstresses, masons, 
 and shoe- makers, furnished only with a crooked knife in the 
 shape of a crescent, several large and small needles, a thim- 
 ble, and their own teeth, with which they stretch the lea- 
 ther in tanning or currying. With the exception of the 
 woodwork, they build the houses and tents, and though they 
 have to carry stones, almost heavy enough to break their 
 backs, the men look on with the greatest insensibility, not 
 stirring a finger to assist them. As some compensation for 
 these toils, they have the entire management of the produce 
 of the chase, excepting the blubber, which is sold by the hus- 
 band ; and in the absence of the latter they may feast witli- 
 out restraint. When all their provision is consumed, they 
 will fast quite patiently, or eat the remnants of old shoes, 
 and only the necessities of their children seem to afflict them. 
 
 When a married pair have no grown-up children, they 
 frequently adopt one or more orphan boys and girls, or a wi- 
 dow, to assist in hunting or housekeeping, and to supply 
 the future wants of the family. Though used as servants, 
 they suffer no compulsion. The boy is regarded as the fu- 
 ture master of the house, and the girl is left to her own op- 
 tion either to stay in the family, or to seek another situation. 
 A master never inflicts blows upon his servant, and to strike 
 a maid would be deemed a great reproach. 
 
 In the dirtiness and disorder of their housekeeping, the 
 Greenlanders, at first sight, seem to resemble a society 
 of gypsies. It is almost sickening to view their hands and 
 faces smeared with grease, their food cooked and eaten so 
 disgustingly, and their filthy clothes swarming witK vermin. 
 Yet an attentive observer will perceive an appearance of or- 
 der and good management in some branches of their domes- 
 tic economy, which though it may not counterbalance their 
 
 F f 2 
 
220 parry's second voyage 
 
 uncleanllness, could scarcely be surpassed by Europeans m 
 their circumstances ; and their habitations, with all their fil- 
 thiness, have often afforded foreigners a welcome refuge 
 from the fury of the tempest. Ten families frequently live 
 in a house not much above ten fathoms long, and two broad* 
 yet their confined dwellings and scanty furniture, are always 
 in good order. As to the hunting and fishing accoutre- 
 ments, the man is always repairing or improving them. 
 
 Such articles of dress as are not in daily use they lay by 
 in leathern sacks, shaped nearly like a chest, and neatly 
 embroidered with Tarious devices. Their water vessels are 
 made partly of wood, ornamented with bone, partly of cop- 
 per J and are kept so clean that an European would feel na 
 disgust at drinking out of them, were the water not fetched 
 in foetid leathern buckets. Greenlanders are seldom seen 
 easing themselves. They choose a sequestered spot, and 
 are so delicate in this point that they will not eat any vege - 
 tables, not even the valuable scurvy j;rass, because they 
 grow most abundantly in places frequented for this purpose. 
 Their quiet, sociable disposition, is highly praiseworthy. 
 There is less noise and confusion in a Greenland house in- 
 habited by ten couples, with numerous children of different 
 ages, than in a single European one, where only two rela- 
 tions reside with their families. When a Greenlander con- 
 siders himself injured by his neighbour, he retires without 
 any reprisals into another house. They assist each other 
 willingly, and in some respects live in common, without any 
 one becoming dependant or idle. Whoever returns in the 
 evening after a successful fishing excursion, especially if it 
 be in winter, when seals are scarce and difficult to catch, 
 shares his provision with all the poor widows in the house, 
 besides inviting several neighbours to his table. But no 
 one, be he ever so poor and hungry, will beg for any thing to 
 eat. Indeed the prevailing hospitality both towards friends 
 and strangers, makes it perfectly needless, and is the more 
 necessary and laudable, as they may sometimes scour the 
 
TO THK NORTH POLK. 221 
 
 bays, for a circuit of several miles, without me< ting with a 
 single seal. 
 
 Their deportment in the social mtercourse of every-day 
 life is discreet, cautious, friendly, mannerly and modest* 
 They are, however, perfect strangers to false shame, jea- 
 lous reserve, or affectation, though they have the art of dis- 
 sembling their wishes and inclinations. Their concern is 
 notto shine among their equals, but to avoid rendering them- 
 selves ridiculous, and tarnishing their good name. If true 
 politeness may be allowed to exist without artificial phrases, 
 unmeaning compliments, and strange or ridiculous gri- 
 maces, the Greenlanders are a polite people. Salutations 
 and marks of respect are indeed incomprehensible to them. 
 They laugh to see an European standing bare-headed be- 
 fore his superior, or a servant submitting to ill-usage from 
 his master. The children and domestics, however, show 
 due reverence to age, and all behave respectfully to one ano* 
 fher. 
 
 In company they are loquacious, and fond of ironical re- 
 marks. A satirical manner is more effectual in debating with 
 them, than the most solid arguments or remonstrances, de- 
 livered in a grave, austere tone. If they are hard pressed 
 in a dispute, they become head-strong and obstinate. They 
 are anxious to please, or rather not to displease each other, 
 and carefully avoid whatever might excite uneasiness. This 
 principle seems to run through all their actions. No one 
 interrupts another in the course of conversation ; nor do they 
 willingly contradict each other, much less give way to cla- 
 morous brawling. If an affront is offered, the injured party 
 does not attempt to retaliate either by violence or abusive 
 language ; their differences therefore seldom proceed to open 
 quarrels, and their language does not furnish one single 
 word expressive of abuse or execration. They laugh at 
 what they think laughable, but most heartily when an Euro- 
 pean is the subject ; yet their mirth is not rude or noisy. 
 They are not ashamed of things which are not in themselves 
 
222 parry's second voyage 
 
 unnatural and indecent, nor will they bear to be reprimanrled 
 for them. They are however so complaisant as to forbear 
 these rudenesses in the presence of Europeans, as soon as 
 they understand that their company will otherwise be disa- 
 greeable. 
 
 In their visits, they carry with them a small present of 
 eatables or peltry. If (hey are respectable and agreeable 
 guests, they are welcomed with singing. All hands are 
 employed in drawing on shore and unloading their boats, and 
 every one is eager to have the guests in his own house. 
 They meanwhile are silent, and wait till the invitations are 
 repeated. On their entrance, the upper garments are taken 
 off and laid upon the rack to dry. They are then accommo- 
 dated with dry clothes and a soft skin for a cushion. The 
 most honourable seat is the bench, which the Europeans ge- 
 nerally decline. The men and women sit separate. The 
 men converse very gravely on the subject of the weather and 
 hunting ; the women, after howling in concert for their de- 
 ceased relatives, amuse themselves with stories. The snuff- 
 horn, which is made of the antlers of the deer, elegantly 
 mounted with tin or copper, is liberally handed round the 
 circle ; and they snuff up the contents with their nostrils, 
 without any intermediate conveyance. 
 
 The entertainment is in the mean time laid out, to which 
 the whole family, and occasionally some neighbours, are in- 
 vited. The visitors seem to be vastly indifferent about what 
 passes, and require much pressing to begin, lest they should 
 appear poor or greedy. Three or four dishes are the cus- 
 tomary compliment,, but a large feast consists of more. A 
 merchant, at a banquet to which he was invited, with seve- 
 ral respectable Greenlanders, counted the following dishes ; 
 dried herrings; dried seaFs flesh; the same boiled; half 
 raw or putrid seaFs flesh called mikiak ; boiled awks ; part 
 of a whale's tail in a half putrid state, which was considered 
 as the principal dish ; dried salmon ; dried rein-deer veni- 
 son ; preserves of crowberries, mixed with the chyle from 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 223 
 
 the maw of the reio-deer ; and lastly, the same enriched with 
 train-oil. 
 
 The table-talk is kept up for several hours without any 
 other topic than the seal-hunt. Their stories are indeed 
 sufficiently lengthy, but they are told with such animation, 
 that the hearers feel no inclination to yawn. If the harpoon- 
 ing of a seal for instance is described, they particularize time 
 and place with the utmost minuteness, point out every move- 
 ment made by themselves or the seal, imitate with the left 
 hand all the windings and doublings of the animal, and with 
 the right the motions of their kajak, their manner of holding 
 the dart, taking aim, and finally piercing their mark ; and 
 all this with such truth and nature, that it is impossible to 
 withhold admiration. The children, who derive the chief 
 profit from these narrations, listen with deep attention ; but 
 they say nothing, except in reply to a question, and then 
 their answer is short and modest. 
 
 If Europeans are in company, their accounts of their own 
 country are received with pleasure. Relations of this kind, 
 however, to be intelligible to them, must be illustrated by 
 comparisons. For example: ** A city or country has so 
 many inhabitants, that such a certain number of whales will 
 scarcely supply them with food for a day. They eat no whales 
 in that country, but bread, which grows out of the ground 
 like grass, and the flesh of animals which have horns ; and 
 they are carried about upon the backs of great and strong 
 beasts, or drawn upon a wooden frame." 
 
 The auditors now call bread, grass ; oxen, rein-deer ; and 
 horses, great dogs. They wonder at every thing, and ex- 
 press a desire to dwell in so fine and fertile a country ; but 
 this inclination vanishes when they are told that thunder is 
 frequent, and no seals are found there. They likewise listen 
 with willingness to discourse about God and religion as long 
 as no application is made to themselves, and their supersti- 
 tious fables and customs allowed to pass uncensured. 
 
 When the feast is concluded, the strangers are hospitably 
 
224 parry's second voyage 
 
 directed to fi sleeping place aj)art, and supplied with new 
 pelts ; but they sit up out of politeness, till the master of the 
 house has reti ed to rest. 
 
 Their trading negociutions are very pimply and concisely 
 conducted. Th^y make mutual exchanges with each other 
 for what they need ; and »s they have a childish fondness for 
 novelty and variety, this bartering is carried on in some cases 
 to an iudefinite extent, and to the no small detriment of 
 their domestic economy. The most useful article is bartered 
 for a worthless trifle which chances to strike their eye, and 
 a valuable bargain is rejejcted, if the offered commodity does 
 not exactly please them. 
 
 They have no disposition^ co ovBr-reach each other, still 
 less to steal, which is considered as excessively disgraceful; 
 but if they can contrive to cheat or rob an European, they 
 boast of it, and plume themselves on their superior cunning. 
 
 Their commerce is partly amongst themselves, and partly 
 witlt factors and sailors. Amongst themselves they hold a 
 kind of fair. Every large concourse of Greenlanders, at a 
 dance, or the winter festival of the sun, is frequented by 
 persons who expose their wares to view, and make known 
 what commodities they want in exchange. Any one disposed 
 to purchase, brings the goods in request, and the bargain is 
 complete. The principal trade is in vessels of Weichstein^ 
 which is not to be met with in every place. And since the 
 Southlanders have no whales, while the inhabitants of the 
 north coast are in want of wood, numerous companies of 
 Greenlanders make every summer a voyage of from five 
 hundred to one thousand miles out of the south, or even from 
 the east coast, to Disko, in new kajaks and large boats. 
 They barter their lading of wood for the horns of the narwhal, 
 teeth, bones, and the sinews of the whale, which they in 
 part sell again during their return homeward. 
 
 They are so liabituated to these migrations, which are 
 well suited to the love of change, that if the motive of com- 
 merce were wanting, they could not bear to remain in one 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 225 
 
 place. They take with them their whole family and sub- 
 stance, as several years elapse before their return. When 
 arrested in their course by winter, they repair, if possible, 
 to the neighbourhood of a colony, build a house, and arrange 
 plans for their livelihood. The land and sea are open to 
 them, and as some of these roving families occasionally set- 
 tle along the coast, they every where find useful friends and 
 acquaintances. 
 
 To the factors, the Greenlanders carry fox and seal-skins, 
 but particularly blubber, for the sake of which, the traffic 
 was probably set on foot. In exchange they receive no mo- 
 ney; that is of no value whatever amongst them, and it is 
 qtiite indifferent whether they have a piece of gold or a 
 penny, glass beads or diamonds hanging round their neck. 
 They esteem things of this kind merely because they shine, 
 and instances are known of their giving a guinea or a Spa- 
 nish dollar, stolen from seamen, for a few ounces of gun- 
 powder or a bit of tobacco. Iron is in far more request, for they 
 find it useful. They receive therefore from the factors ac- 
 cording to a fixed price, iron heads for their dart«, knives, 
 saws, chisels, and needles; also striped linen and cotton, 
 kersey-stuffs, woollen stockings and caps, handkerchiefs, 
 boards, boxes, wooden and pewter plates, and copper ket- 
 tles; with looking-glasses, combs, ribbons, and various 
 trinkets for the children. Fowling-pieces and ammunition 
 are eagerly purchased, though they in general are a source 
 of detriment rather than profit, to their domestic affairs. 
 Tobacco, which they use only in snuff, is their small coin. 
 They expect a piece of tobacco for every service: vrith this 
 drug they pay their shoemakers and tailors; they proffer, 
 for a small quantity of it, a handful of eider-down, a parcel 
 of eggs, birds, a plate of fish, and the like; and for this 
 many a poor, miserable spendthrift barters the clothes from 
 his back, and starves with his children, rather than part 
 with this luxury; this article in fine, Uke spirituous liquors 
 
 P. V. 10. G G 
 
220 parry's second voyage 
 
 among other nations, is a fertile source of indigence and 
 misery. 
 
 The dancing assemblies and the feast of the sun, are not 
 religious ceremonies, as amongst other heathens, but solely 
 for diversion. The Greenlanders celebrate the sun feast at 
 the winter solstice on the 22d of December, as a rejoicing 
 for the return of the sun and good weather for hunting.; They 
 crowd together to it in large parties from the whole country, 
 entertain each other with their best ~cheer, and when they 
 have eaten to satiety, for intoxication is impossible, the oniy 
 beverage being water, they rise up to sport and dance. 
 
 Their only musical instrument is the drum, which con- 
 sists of 9. hoop of wood or w^halebone two fingers broad, of 
 a rather oval form, a foot and a half in diameter, covered 
 on one side only with a fine skin, or the integument of a 
 whale's tongue, and furnished with a small handle. The 
 performer holds it in th^ left hand, and. strikes it with a small 
 stick on the under surface, leaping up at each stroke, though 
 he does not change his ground. This is accompanied with 
 many wonderful motions of the head and whole body, and 
 performed in common musical time, so that two strokes fall 
 in every crotchet. He sings of the seal-hunt and their ex- 
 ploits in the chace, chants the deeds of their ancestors, and 
 testifies his joy for the retrogression of the sun. The spec- 
 tators do not sit in silence, but accompany each verse of his 
 song with a reiterated chorus of amna ajah, ajah-ah-ah ! so 
 that the first bar falls a fourth, and the next is begun a note 
 higher and so on. The musician sings four cantos in every 
 act; the two first commonly consist of the constant theme 
 amna ajah; the others are a recitative, where a short stro- 
 phe without rhyme alternates with the chorus of amna ajah. 
 Taken together it forms a complete cantata, as thus : 
 The welcome sun returns again. 
 
 Amna ajah, ajah, ah-hu ! 
 And brings us weather fine and fair. 
 Amna ajah, ajah, ah-hu ! 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 227 
 
 The singer well knows how to express the different pas 
 sions by the soft or animated notes of the drum and the 
 motions of his body^ which is naked down to the hips. An 
 act lasts a full quarter of an hour. When one performer 
 is tired and bathed in perspiration, another steps into the 
 circle. This they proloffig the whole night through, and 
 after sleeping the next day and again gorging their sto- 
 machs, they renew the sports in the evening. These revels 
 are kept up for several nights, till all their provisions are 
 consumed, or till they become too exhausted to articulate 
 any longer. He who can make the drollest contortions of 
 his body passes for the master-singer. 
 
 They likewise play at ball by moonlight. In this game, 
 they separate into two parties. The ball is thrown from 
 one to another of the same side, who endeavour to keep it 
 to themselves, while it is the aim of the other party to wrest 
 it from them. They also set up a goal, and exercise their 
 agility at foot-ball. 
 
 They have several ways of trying their strength. Two 
 competitors, for instance, strike each other with the fist on 
 the naked back,, aad be who holds out longest is declared 
 eoncjueror. The successful champion swaggers about, 
 challenging others to the contest, till he likewise is drubbed 
 to satiety. Again, they sit down and link their legs and 
 arms together, and he that can out-pull the other is victor. 
 Or they vary this contest, by hooking together their fingers, 
 and then pulling. Sometimes they tie a cord to the be^m of a 
 house, suspend themselves to it by foot and arm,, and throw 
 themselves into many artful postures like rope-dancers. 
 
 Young people are fond of turning round a board upon an 
 axle, with an index fixed to it, something like an EO table, 
 and he to whom the finger points,^ when its rotatory motion 
 has ceased, wins the stake. 
 
 The children, and especially the girls, amuse themselves 
 by joining hands, forming a ring, and striking up a skip- 
 ping dance, accompanying it with their voices. Such 
 
 G g2 
 
228 parry's second vovacpe 
 
 dancing-meetings are also held at other seasons of the year, 
 when their store-houses are full, and little can be done 
 at seur 
 
 The most lemarkable circumstance is, that they even- 
 decide their quarrels by a match of singing and dancings 
 which they call the singing-combat. If a GFeenlander 
 thinks himself aggrieved by another, be discovers no symp- 
 toms of revengeful designs, anger, or vexation, but be com- 
 poses a satirical poem, which be recites with singing and 
 dancing, in the presence of his domestics, and particularly 
 the female part of bis family, till they know it by rote* He 
 then in the face of the whole country challenges his antago- 
 nist to a satirical ^xneh The latter appears at the appointed 
 place, and both parties enter the lists* The complainant 
 begins to sing his satire, dancing to the beat of the drum^ 
 and cheered by the echoing Amna ajah of his partizans, wha 
 join in every line, while k& repeats so many ludicrous stories 
 of which his adversary is the subject, that the auditors can- 
 not forbear laughing. Whe» he has finished, the respondent 
 steps forth, and retorts the accusation, amidst the plaudits 
 of his party, by a similar string of lampoons. The accuser 
 renews the assault, and is again rebuffed ; and this conti- 
 nues till one of the compel iters is weary. He who has thc^ 
 last word wins the trial^, and obtains thenceforward a repu- 
 table name. An opix)rtunity is here ofiered of telling very 
 plain and cutting truths, but there must be no mixture of 
 rudeness or passion. The assembled spectators decide the 
 victory, and the parties in future are the best of friends. 
 
 This contest is seldom attended with any disorderly con- 
 duct, except that a man who is^ well seconded sometimes 
 carries off a woman whom he wishes to marry. It serves a 
 higher purpose than mere diversion. It is an opportunity 
 for putting immorality to the blush, and cherishing virtuous 
 principles; for reminding debtors of the duty of repayment; 
 for branding falsehood and detraction with infamy ; for 
 
TO THt NORTH PULE. 22^) 
 
 vanishing fraud and injustice ; and, most of all, for over- 
 whelming adultery with its merited contempt. Nothing so 
 effectually restrains a Greenlander from vice, as the dread 
 of public disgrace. And this pleasant way of revenge even 
 prevents many from wreaking their malice in acts of vio- 
 lence or bloodshed. Still it is easy to see that the whole af- 
 fair depends upon volubility of tongue ; and the most cele- 
 brated satirists and moral philosophers of the Greenlanders, 
 are generally the most profligate in their lives. 
 
 The drum-dances of the Greenlanders are their Olym- 
 pic games, their areopagus, their rostrum, their theatre, 
 their fair, and their forum. Here they cite each other to 
 appear and decide their differences, without risking their 
 lives in the duel, or wounding each other's honour by the 
 envenomed pen. We cannot blame their method of disgrac- 
 ing malevolence, punishing guilt, and obtaining redress of 
 wrongs, as long as they are savages without religion, and 
 destitute of the very shadow of civil polity. They Jive as 
 we may suppose the immediate descendants of Noah to have 
 lived, before they learned to envy their fellow-mortals, and 
 to rob each other of honour, property, freedom, and life. 
 A father governs his family to the best of his ability, has no 
 command beyond it, nor will he submit to the authority of 
 any one. Thus also several families living together in the 
 same house, do not in any way interfere with each other. 
 They merely agree to repair the house in common, and to 
 move in and out together, as many lamps are requisite to 
 heat it properly. The men however generally defer to the 
 superior wisdom of some senior father of a family, who is 
 best skilled in the appearances of the weather, and in seal 
 catching. He occupies the north end of the house, and 
 watches over its good order and cleanliness. If any one re- 
 fuses to follow his counsels, no compulsion er punishm^.ut 
 is employed; but the next winter all unanimously decline 
 living under the same roof with such a refractor)^ person. 
 
230 l'ARR\'S S*ECOND VOYACK 
 
 and his faults are told him in a satire, it^ he is thought of 
 sufficient consequence to deserve this chastisement. 
 
 Children remain with their parents as long as they live, 
 even after marriage, and relations in general are solicitous 
 to keep together, that they may have the benefit of mutual 
 assistance in times of necessity. In their voyages the whole 
 number of kajaks in company put themselves under the gui- 
 dance of some considerable man, who is best acquainted with 
 the way, but are at liberty to separate from him whenever 
 they please. In short, no one desires to usurp authority 
 over his neighbour, to prescribe laws to him, to call him to 
 account for his actions, or to exact taxes for the public ex- 
 igencies. They have no superfluous wealth, and no oppor- 
 tunity of growing rich : their natural disposition is averse to 
 any kind of compulsion, and the whole extent of the coun- 
 try is free to all. 
 
 They have however some useful traditional customs by 
 which they regulate their conduct instead of laws; but these 
 are very partially observed, since there is no punishment to 
 enforce the execution, with the single exception of the sa- 
 tirical dance. 
 
 Every one has liberty to choose his own place of abode ; 
 but if he finds a spot already occupied, he does not land till 
 he has announced his intention, and intimation is given that, 
 his society will be welcome. The chase and fishery, the 
 only riches of this country, are the common birth-right of 
 all. No one can complain of a trespass, if an entire stran- 
 ger comes to a rich fishing place, or even a salmon-wear 
 built with much labour, on condition he does not spoil it or 
 drive away the fishes. Should the stranger disturb the prior 
 occupant, he will rather go away and starve than engage in 
 a quarrel. Stranded wood or the wreck of a ship is the pro- 
 perty of the finder, but he must haul it on shore, and lay a 
 stone upon it, in token that it is appropriated ; if this is done 
 no other Greenlander will meddle with it. 
 
 if a seal escapes with a javelin sticking in it, and is af' 
 
TO THE NORTH I'OLE. 231 
 
 terwards killed by another, it belongs to him who threw the 
 first dart. If however it has been struck with the harpoon 
 and bladder, and the line breaks, he loses his right. If two 
 hunters strike the seal at the same time, they divide it. The 
 same rules are observed with regard to fowls. Again, if 
 any one finds a dead seal with the harpoon in it, he keeps the 
 seal, but restores the harpoon to the owner. On the cap- 
 ture of a walrus, or other large sea animal, the harpooner 
 claims the head and tail ; of the rest of the carcase any one 
 may cut as much as he can carry off. When a whale is taken, 
 the very spectators have an equal right to it with the har- 
 pooners. On these occasions dreadful confusion ensues : se- 
 veral of the men mount at once upon the animal, and ea- 
 gerly fall to cutting it with their sharp knives; many are fre- 
 quently wounded in the scuffle, but they bear no grudge on 
 this account. 
 
 If several hunters shoot a rein-deer at once, it is adjudged 
 to him whose arrow is lodged the nearest to the heart, but 
 the rest receive a share of the flesh. If one wounds it before 
 another, he gains the booty, though the second cast the mor- 
 tal dart. Since the use of muskets, no one knowing his 
 own ball, many disputes arise in the chase which are not ea- 
 sily decided. If a man makes a fox-trap and neglects it for 
 some time, another may set it and claim the captured 
 animal. 
 
 A person lending his boat or tools, cannot demand repa- 
 ration if they receive an accidental injury, except they were 
 used without his knowledge. On this account they lend re- 
 luctantly. Any one who makes a purchase which does not 
 suit him, may return it, and take back his equivalent. The 
 purchaser can also take a thing on credit if he has not the 
 means of payment at hand. If he dies without discharging 
 the debt, the creditor must not afflict the disconsolate 
 mourners by the remembrance of the deceased, but after 
 some interval he may reclaim the article bartered, provided 
 it is not lost in the scramble which usually succeeds the fu- 
 
232 parry's second voyage 
 
 neral. This lenient system goes so far, that if a person loses 
 or breaks an article taken upon credit, he is not held to his 
 agreement. 
 
 These customs, which by their long standing have acquired 
 the force of laws, appear somewhat strange to those who are 
 accustomed to a different code, and are extremely perplex- 
 ing to the factors. The Greenlanders themselves are sensi- 
 ble of the insufficiency and iniquity of many of these provi- 
 sions, but are deterred from altering them by the dread of 
 ill report ; and their grand argument against all objections is, 
 *• This is now the custom.** 
 
 A correct notion of their national character is not easily 
 attained. It has been drawn by some from the bright, and 
 by others from the dark side, so that various contradictory 
 reports have been spread upon the subject. Upon a super- 
 ficial examination numerous pleasing qualities are discerned, 
 which might put many nominal christians to the blush, and 
 which might easily impose upon those who have had no time 
 or opportunity to search them to the bottom, and explore the 
 labyrinth of their character through all its secret windings 
 and recesses. Many undoubtedly have gone to the other 
 extreme, and will not allow them even specious virtues, set- 
 ting them down among the most barbarous and wicked na- 
 tions upon earth. By blending the accounts of both parties 
 so far as they are substantiated by evidence, a statement in 
 some measure correct may be given of the moral habits of 
 this singular race. 
 
 If the term savage is understood to imply a brutal, unso- 
 cial, and cruel disposition, the Greenlanders are not entitled 
 to the appellation. They are not un tractable, wild, or bar- 
 barous; but a mild, quiet, and good-natured people. They 
 live in a state of natural liberty without government, but in 
 societies in some measure realizing the dreams of modern 
 republicans. These societies, which consist of several fami- 
 lies in one house, or of several houses on an island, are not 
 kept together by fixed laws, and an executive power to en- 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 2^ 
 
 force them, Ibut by a certain order mutually understood and 
 spontaneously agreed to. They have in this way subsisted, 
 probably for several centuries, with more quietness than the 
 far-famed Athens or Sparta. The Greenlander may, com- 
 paratively speakmg, be called a happy people. Each fol- 
 lows the bent of his inclination, yet seldom injures his neigh- 
 bour, except from motives of private revenge. Authority 
 to punish the infringement of justice, is therefore not so in- 
 dispensible among them as in civilised nations, where it is 
 one of the greatest blessings of heaven. Their lives, so hard 
 and penurious in our eyes, are abundantly blessed with con- 
 tentment. Had they any diet more costly than seals, they 
 would no longer be able to pursue their present simple, uni- 
 form course of life, or find reason to pity Europeans for the 
 multiplication of their desires. It is their poverty also which 
 secures the permanency of their freedom. They have no trea- 
 sures, like the Mexicans, to allure the bands of robbers, 
 and have consequently to fear no wars, no violence, or op- 
 pression, sleeping more peacefully iu their lowly huts, than 
 the great in their sumptuous palaces . 
 
 Several species of vice, so prevalent in civilized coun- 
 tries that no laws or penalties can stem the torrent, are 
 scarcely ever observed among the Green landers. They are 
 never heard to curse, swear, scold, or use abusive language, 
 and with the exception of certain nicknames, bearing a sig- 
 nificant allusion to some ridiculous or shameful occurrence, 
 there is not one reproachful epithet in their language. No 
 bawling, noisy laughter, contradiction, brawling disputes, or 
 slandering, occurs in their assemblies. Though they are 
 sometimes very jocose, like to relate an unbecoming action 
 with humorous contempt, and are very dexterous in forming 
 double meanings, no immodest jesting, bitter mockery, obscen- 
 ity or foolery, is heard among them. Lies, deception, and 
 stealing are rare ; violent robberies entirely unknown. In- 
 deed to judge only by their external appearance, we should 
 not suspect them of coveting other men's goods. 
 P. V. 10. H H 
 
234 parry's second voyage 
 
 It IS doubtless to be ascribed in part to their abstinence 
 from spirituous liquors, that they are so little addicted to 
 fighting and brawling, and can bridle their resentment with 
 such Stoical firmness. "Wanton and lecherous deportment it 
 quite unprecedented among them. At the first sight of the 
 indecency committed among the lower class of Europeans, 
 they stood quite amazed, but accounted for it by saying, 
 ** The mad waters," that is, spirituous liquors, " have made 
 them insane^" Even in their dances and merry-makings, to 
 which young and old resort, nothing is seen or heard that 
 would put modesty to the blush : so that were it not for the 
 drum and the droll figure of the dancers, a stranger ignorant 
 of their language would almost conclude, that they were as- 
 sembled for religious exercises, rather than for pastime. 
 
 This freedom from some particular crimes may partly be 
 attributed to their phlegmatic disposition, partly to the ab- 
 sence of bad examples and incentives to vice. Entire absti- 
 nence from all stimulating food and intoxicating liquors, may 
 doubtless also contribute a great deal towards the growth of 
 vices, which yet lie in embryo within them. The commu- 
 nity of land, and the penurious simplicity of their house- 
 keeping, also tend to preven disorder. But poverty, which 
 must restrain the commission of some evil practices, would un- 
 doubtedly operate as a stimulus to others, as theft and de- 
 ceit, so that we must trace their outward shew of uprightness 
 in all their dealings to another source. Due reflection aided 
 by self-interest in the mind of any rational being, it may be 
 said, naturally leads to this first principle of justice : " Do 
 unto another as thou wishest that another should do unto 
 thee ;" and ignorant as the Greenlanders are of all laws hu- 
 man or divine, they might in a great measure be deterred 
 from crime by this simple axiom and by the secret reproofs of 
 conscience. 
 
 Their reasoning faculties are naturally as strong as those 
 of other men. They sometimes use them to advantage in 
 their concerns, and but too frequently misapply them. Yet 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 2H6 
 
 upon a closer examination of the want of foresight and in- 
 considerateness, mostly manifested in their dealings, we shall 
 be rather inclined to adopt a different solution of the prob- 
 lem. According to the opinions of some on the subject, 
 their apparently virtuous and upright deportment proceeds 
 chiefly from an inward impulse resembling the instinct of ani- 
 mals, which is nothing else than the secret working of the 
 Deity. This hidden spring operates upon shame, fear, self- 
 love, and interest,^ as its agents. On this subject it may be 
 useful to make a few more remarks. 
 
 The germ or disposition to evil lives within them, and their 
 tendency to it is as natural and strong as in the rest of the 
 human race; but fear of retaliation restrains them from 
 many vices, and the dread of losing their character from 
 more. A Greenlander dare not rob, kill, strike, or vent his 
 anger against another either in word or deed, for such con- 
 duct might cost himself, or a dear friend, his life. Their de- 
 portment towards each other must be friendly and courteous, 
 or they incur general disgrace, and are drummed out of so- 
 ciety at the next singing combat. Young people, especially, 
 who transgress in the least against decency or a becoming rc?- 
 serve, immediately forfeit their reputation and prospects in 
 life. Their mutual affection, sociable and obliging disposi- 
 tion in domestic life, and their hospitality to strangers do not 
 originate in benevolence, or sympathy with the helpless, as 
 we shall presently see, but in self-love. From the uncer- 
 tainty of their maintenance, a reciprocation of benefits is al- 
 most necessary to their subsistence. A free man assists his 
 neighbour, that he may receive a similar favour in time of 
 need. They must be beneficent to strangers, in order that 
 their fame for hospitality may be spread abroad, and that 
 they may be entertained in return, when, according to their 
 custom, they travel through the country, and have no time 
 to procure their own provisions. In brief, the general cha- 
 racter given by Christ, Matt. chap. v. to all heathen, that they 
 only love those that love them, and do g-ood to those from 
 
 H H 2 ^ 
 
23(> parry's second voyage 
 
 whom they expect the same, is fully verified in the Green- 
 landers. 
 
 The Greenlanders are well versed in the false but fashion- 
 able morality of " saving appearances." They are very 
 dextrous in stealing the good opinion of others, or at least 
 in avoiding public scandal ; and it has often been manifest 
 that many fine gentlemen might not be ashamed of learning 
 from them in this respect. But their character will not 
 bear the smallest scrutiny. Numerous proofs might be cited, 
 that their brotherly love, for instance, as has been remarked, 
 is only a mere sham, played off in hopes of speedy remune- 
 ration. When a stranger dies, leaving behind him no grown- 
 up sons, or near relations, no one pays the smallest atten- 
 tion to his forlorn relict, except when they have occasion 
 for her as their servant. Every door is shut against her, 
 and after carrying off" most of her goods, her countrymen 
 are hard-hearted enough to see her perish with cold and hun- 
 ger, without offering the smallest assistance. When people 
 on shore observe a kajak overset at sea, if it be not occu- 
 pied by a near relation or friend, they can look on with the 
 utmost unconcern, and even enjoy a savage delight in watch- 
 ing the struggles of the expiring suff*erer. It would be too 
 much trouble to set off in another kajak and save his life. 
 Should they be incommoded by the cries and lamentations of 
 the women and children, they sneak off. When they sail 
 out in company with another, they will help him in difficulty, 
 because it costs them little exertion. Their treatment of 
 animals, that is, such as are not used for food, also dis- 
 plays an unfeeling heart, as even their children are exceed- 
 ingly fond of torturing little birds, and watching them writhing 
 with pain. Indeed both humanity and sympathy are so en- 
 tirely excluded from their character, that they are not even 
 found in the weaker sex* 
 
 On the other hand, the bonds of filial and parental love 
 seem stronger in them than amongst most other nations. 
 They scarcely fever suffer their children to go out of their 
 
TO THK NORTH POLE. 237 
 
 sight, and a mother has often been known to throw herself 
 info the water, when her child was drowned. This careless- 
 ness about the weal and woe of their fellow-creatures, with 
 their ardent affection and tender anxiety for their offspring, 
 goes to strengthen the notion, that the Greenlanders are in 
 a great measure guided by an instinctive impulse rather than 
 by rational reflection. 
 
 Their wonderful inconsiderateness may be adduced in sup- 
 port of this opinion. Their maxim seems to be, live while 
 ye live, and care for futurity never enters their thoughts. 
 When they see any thing which takes their fancy, be it ever 
 so useless to them, they immediately purchase it, though at 
 the expence of their most necessary articles, and would ra- 
 ther suffer want, than curb their desires. If they arc obliged 
 or helped out of a ditficulty by any one, especially if he be 
 an European, they know of no other acknowledgement than 
 kujonak, (thank you,) and will seldom return ths favour to 
 their benefactor, when he is in need of their assistance. 
 Those among them who have any finery about their dress, 
 stmt about with a consequential air, sneering contemptu- 
 ously at their fellows. This is also the case if they possess 
 peculiar dexterity in any art, particularly in seal-catching. 
 
 Though they can smother their resentment for a length 
 of time, if it once breaks out, it rages with senseless and 
 brutal violence. Their will must be set through ; and no re- 
 monstrances, however eloquent, will prevent them from car- 
 rying it into effect- Their obstinancy, accompanied by a 
 sly craftiness, is most conspicuous in the old, and proceeds 
 partly from their want of reflection, and partly from their 
 entire insubordination in childhood. It is a quality which 
 is a source of great trouble to the missionaries, unless they 
 can previously manage to divert them from forming theit 
 self-willed resolutions. 
 
 But it may easily be imagined, that the Greenlanders are 
 not all alike in disposition, and that consequently the above 
 remarks must not be understood without exception, There 
 
2JW parry's second voyage 
 
 are some really considerate, beneficent characters among themv 
 but they are very rare. Those are far more numerous, who 
 having deadened their sense of shame, and ^ot rid of ail dread 
 of retribution, give themselves up to the most detestable and 
 unnatural vices. 
 
 Lies and slander are most common among the women ; the 
 poor and indolent are also addicted to stealing, especially 
 from strangers, and if they can purloin or even forcibly seize 
 the property of a foreigner, it is a feather in their cap. Eu- 
 ropeans, therefore, ought never to place much confidence 
 in them, having frequently experienced their deception. 
 Examples have occurred in which they have enticed a fo- 
 reigner on shore, murdered him, and carried off his goods-. 
 On those foreigners, however, who have fixed their residence 
 in Greenland, they dare not practise their roguish tricks, as 
 they are liable to be apprehended and punished. 
 
 Their outward show of modesty is not at all to be de. 
 pended on. However careful their young a/id single peo- 
 ple may be to avoid all open irregularity in their deportment, 
 they are in secret quite as licentious as those of other na- 
 tions. Polygamy in the old does not always result from a 
 desire of issue, but very frequently from pure lascivious- 
 ness. There are also among them harlots by profession 
 though a single woman will seldom follow this infamous 
 trade. The married will break their vows on both sides with 
 the utmost shamelessness, and though we might suppose that 
 among such an uncultivated race, there could be no refine- 
 ment in their licentious practices, the contrary is the case, 
 for their women are as skilful in the language of the eyes as 
 Turkish courtezans. 
 
 Their unbounded self-interest, injustice, and even cruelty 
 towards their helpless widows and orphans, are evident, 
 from their strange distribution of their property after death. 
 When a husband dies, his eldest son inherits his house, tent, 
 and woman's boat, and besides must maintain the mother 
 and children. If the deceased has no grown-up sons, the 
 nearest relative. If the relation has a tent and boat of his own, 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 239 
 
 the inheritance and responsibility falls upon a stranger, for 
 no one will keep several of these articles at once. When 
 the sons of the deceased arrive at years of maturity, they 
 get nothing of their father's property. Those who have once 
 got possession of it retain it : but should the foster-father 
 have no legitimate children, the foster-child inherits his 
 goods, and in return provides for his surviving relations. 
 So far there is however some appearance of order, but 
 henceforward all their proceedings are unjust. As soon as 
 the sons have grown up and commenced seal-catchers, all 
 their earnings are entirely at the disposal of the widow ; 
 and should she forget her old benefactor, and desert his 
 helpless offspring, there is no one to appeal to for redress. 
 It may then be easily imagined, that the care of widows and 
 orphans is much neglected, owing to the small likelihood 
 of advantage from it, especially if they are entirely desti- 
 tute. Many boys are forsaken in their youth because it is 
 expensive to provide them with a kajak, and the necessary 
 implements ; but still more poor unfortunate females perish 
 from nakedness and starvation : but this is not the worst. 
 When a poor widow lies distracted with grief upon the 
 ground with her children, weeping for the loss of her hus- 
 band, all her goods and chattels are slyly conveyed away by 
 her hypocritical comforters. The miserable wretch, stripped 
 of her all, has no one to appeal to, nor any other resource, 
 but to insinuate herself into the good graces of him who has 
 robbed most: he generally maintains her a short time. When 
 he is tired of her, she must try to gain the favour of another. 
 At last she and her children are left to their fate ; and after 
 protracting a miserable existence for a short time by means 
 of fishes, muscles, and sea- weed, they must finally be starved, 
 or frozen to death for want of cloathing and lamp-oil. This, 
 probably is one reason why the Greenland nation diminishes 
 from year to year. 
 
 The punishment of criminals is still more disorderly and 
 savage. None are put to death but murderers, and such 
 
S40 parry's second voyage 
 
 witches as are thoui^ht to have killed some one by their art ; 
 but with regard to these, they proceed with such temerity 
 and revenge, that at last no one is sure of his life. The 
 Greenlanders, as was before stated, are naturally of a mur- 
 derous disposition. Perhaps their constant employment in 
 butchering seals and other creatures, which proceeds from 
 hereditary inclination, may, in a wicked heart, awaken the 
 imnatural desire to spill the blood of their fellow creatures. 
 Few, however, are so fiend-like as to kill from pure blood- 
 thirstiness. Some will do it from envy at another's dexte- 
 rity or wealth ; but most out of revenge 
 
 The assassin generally effects his purpose by stealth, on 
 the water. He either drowns his enemy by oversetting him 
 in his kajak, or throws a harpoon into his back, leaving the 
 dead body to be driven about by the waves, 
 deed come to the ears of the murdered person's fnenas, they 
 smother their resentment, not suffering a word about it to 
 transpire, lest the assassin or his spies should kill them to 
 prevent reprisals. But instances have occurred in which 
 they did not forget to revenge the death of their relation 
 thirty years after, when they found the murderer alone. 
 When highly enraged, they will cut the body to pieces, and 
 devour part of the heart or liver, thinking thereby to disarm 
 his relatives of all courage to attack them. If the punished 
 criminal be a notorious offender, or hated for his bloody 
 deeds, or if he have no relations, the matter rests ; but in a 
 general way the punishment costs the executioner himself, 
 his children, cousins, and other relatives, their lives ; or if 
 these are inaccessible, some other acquaintance in the neigh- 
 bourhood. The lust ofrevenge is sometimes handed down as 
 d birth-right from father to son, without the smallest intima- 
 tion of it till an opportunity offers; thus the tragedy is pro- 
 longed through a series of murders, till quite innocent per- 
 sons fall sacrifices to unbridled revenge. 
 
 The mode of procedure with witches is very short : when 
 the report is spread that an old woman has the power to be 
 
rO THE NORTH POLE. ~il 
 
 witch, which she brings upon herself by pretending' to charms 
 and nostrums, if only a man's wife or child dies, if his arrow 
 does not strike the mark, or if his gun misses fire, an Ange- 
 kok or soothsayer pronounces sentence upon her, and if she 
 has no relations, she suffers the punishment before described. 
 Old men are sometimes put to death under similar accusa- 
 tions. Sometimes a man has been known to stab his own 
 mother or sister in the presence of all the people in his house 
 and no one has upbraided him in the least for it. If, how- 
 ever, the slain person has any near relations, they generally 
 seek to revenge her death, and a succession of murders en- 
 sues. When persons s^ccused in this way have lost all hope 
 of escape, they often throw themselves into the sea in dread 
 of the death which otherwise awaits them. 
 
 Upon the religious creed or superstition of these people 
 it IS very difficult to give any definite information on account 
 of their extreme ignorance, thoughtlessness, and credulity, 
 and especially from the diversity of opinions which they en- 
 tertain, £^s each individual is at liberty to adopt what tenets 
 he pleases. 
 
 Before finy missionaries arrived in the country, Greenland- 
 ers were supposed to be gross idolators, who prayed to the 
 sun, and sacrificed to the devil, that he might be propitious 
 to them in their fishery. Mariners were not led to these con^ 
 elusions from the discourse of the natives, which they could 
 not understand, but from a variety of circumstances. They 
 saw that the Greenlanders every morning, as soon as they 
 rose lip, stood on some eminence, apparently buried in 
 thought, with their eyes directed to the rising sun, in order 
 to conjecture from the colour of the sky or the motion of the 
 clouds, whether fair or stormy weather was to be expected 
 This is still their regular practice. The sailors, who were 
 ignorant of their motive, imagined that they were paying 
 their devotions to the rising luminary. Others observed, ia 
 deserted places, numerous square inclosures surrounded with 
 g^pnes, and on one elevated stone found some cinders, with 
 U ^ 1 
 
242 Party's second voyage 
 
 a heap ol bare Iwnes lying upon them. This was quite suf- 
 ficient to induce the belief that Greenlanders had sacri- 
 ficed there J and to whum should they sacrifice but to the 
 devil ? These people had seen no summer-residence of the 
 Greenlanders, who pitch their tents in such rectangular in- 
 closures, and use the above mentioned coals for cooking 
 their provisions. They have in fact no apparent worship, 
 either religious or idolatrous, nor any ceremonies which 
 might be construed into the service of the deity. There is, 
 indeed, no word in their language for the Divine Being, 
 fiom whence the first missionaries were led to imagine, that 
 they had no conception whatever of a divinity. Upon be- 
 ing asked who made the heavens, earth, and every thing 
 around them, they answered, " We cannot tell ;" or, " We 
 know him not ;" or, " It must have been a very powerful 
 man ;" or, " These things have always existed, and must 
 endure for ever." But after obtaining a more intimate ac- 
 quaintance with their language, the missionaries were led 
 to entertain a contrary opinion, from their various notions 
 concerning the soul and spirits in general, and from their 
 evident anxiety about their probable state after death. From 
 free conversations with the natives in their perfectly wild 
 state, in which, however, care must be taken to make no 
 personal applications, and not to insist upon any duties to 
 which they are disinclined, it is very apparent, that their 
 forefathers believed in a Being who resides above the clouds, 
 to whom they paid religious worship. But this belief has 
 gradually died away in proportion as they become isolated 
 from all communication with civilized nations, till they have 
 lost all clear notions of Deity. That they have still some 
 obscure and concealed idea of a Divine Being is apparent from 
 the circumstance, that though they shun any professional 
 belief in the truths of Revelation yet that they never of- 
 ifer any opposition to them, but rather give a silent as- 
 sent to the doctrines of a God and his attributes. It is onljr 
 their natural slowness, stupidity^ and thoughtlessness, which 
 
TO THE 1V0RTH POLE. 243 
 
 prevent tliem from digesting their dark notions into a regu- 
 lar system, by due reflection upon the works of Creation, 
 and upon their own anxiety concerning futurity. The fol- 
 lowing incident indeed makes it probable, that some of 
 them, at least in youth, before they were buried in the cares 
 of providing for their families, have made some inquiry on 
 the subject. 
 
 A company of baptized Greenlanders one day expressed 
 their astonishment, that they had spent their lives in a state 
 of such complete ignorance and thoughtlessness. One of 
 ihe party immediately rose up and spoke as follows ; " It 
 is true, we were ignorant heathens, and knew nothing of 
 God and of a Redeemer ; for who could have informed us of 
 their existence, before you, (addressing the missionaries,) 
 arrived. Yet I have often thought, a kajak with the darts 
 belonging to it, does not exist of itself, but must be made 
 with the trouble and skill of men's hands ; and he who does 
 not understand the use of it easily spoils it. Now the least 
 bird is composed with greater art than the best kajak, and 
 no man can make a bird. Man is still more exquisitely 
 framed than all other animals. Who then has made him ? 
 He comes from his parents, and they came again from their 
 parents. But whence eame the first man ? He may have 
 grown out of the earth. But why do men not grow out of 
 the earth now-a-days? And from whence do the earth, sea, 
 sun, moon, and stars proceed^ There must necessarily be 
 some one who has created every tiling, who has always ex- 
 isted and can have no «nd : he must be inconceivably more 
 powerful and skilful than the wisest of men : he must also 
 be very good, because every thing that he has made is so 
 useful and necessary for us. Did I but know him, what 
 love and respect should I feel for him ? But who has seen 
 or conversed with him ? None of us men. Yet there may 
 be men, too, who know something about him. With su<;li 
 I should willingly converse. As soon therefore as 1 heard 
 from you of this great Being, I believed you immediately 
 
244 parry's second voyage 
 
 and willingly, having for a length of time longed after such 
 information.*' This declaration was confirmed by the state- 
 ments of the others with more or fewer circumstances. One 
 of the company made this additional remark ; " A man is 
 formed differently from all other animals. These serve each 
 other for food, and all of them are for the use of man, and 
 have no understanding. But we have an intelligent soulj 
 are subject to no one in the world, and yet are anxious about 
 futurity. Of whom can we be afraid ? Surely it must b^ 
 of some mighty Spirit who rules over us. Oh, that we but 
 knew him ! that we had him for our friend." 
 
 All this tends to confirm the assertion of the great apos- 
 tle of the gentiles : " Because that which may be known of 
 God is manifiested in them, for God hath showed it unto 
 them. For the invisible things of him from the creation of 
 the world," &c. (Rom. i. 19—21.) The universal re- 
 port of all travellers informs us, that no people have hitherto 
 been discovered who have not some notion of a Deity, be h 
 ever so dark and erroneous. Even the stupid Greeriland- 
 ers in their various opinions concerning the soul of man, and 
 other greater and inferior spirits, give sufficient proof of the 
 scriptural declaration. There are indeed some who believe, 
 that their soul is not imniOrtal or different from the living 
 principle in other animals ; but these are either of the most 
 stupid sort, who are ridiculed by their companions, or else 
 wicked cunning men, who profess such (Opinions for their 
 own private emolument. 
 
 Others describe the soul as a being so nearly allied to 
 matter, that it may be taken out and replaced, be divided 
 into a number of parts, lose a portion of its substance, be 
 repaired when damaged, and even go astray out of the body 
 for a considerable time. Some eveii pretend, tha* when go- 
 ing on a long journey they can leave their souls at home, 
 and yet remain sound and healthy. These wonderful chi- 
 meras have probably originated either in sOme sickness, 
 during which their thoughts are continually busied about 
 
TO THE NOKTH POLli^, $45 
 
 their birth-place, or else in such ttialadies as weaken , or even 
 for a time derange their mental faculties. 
 
 Some of these materialists believe in two souls, namely 
 me shadow and the breath of man, and suppose that in the 
 night the shadow forsakes the body, and goes a hunting, 
 dancing, or visiting. In all probability, their dreams which 
 are numerous, lively, and often remarkably curious, have 
 given rise to this notion. It is upon such people that the 
 Angekoks principally depend for sustenance, since it is 
 their business to repair damaged souls, bring back those 
 which have gone astray, and even change them when dis- 
 eased past cure, for the sound and healthy souls of hares, 
 rein-deer, birds, or young children. 
 
 The notion that the soul can forsake the body during the 
 interval of sleep, and be exchanged for that of some animal, 
 is chiefly credited by those Who believe in the migration of 
 souls, a doctrine which has lately been discovered among 
 the Greenlanders. It is chiefly held by helpless widows in 
 order to obtain kind treatment : for if a widow can persuade 
 any parent that the soul of her deceased child has migiated into 
 his son, or that the spirit of his deceased offspring animates 
 the body of one of her children, the man will always do his 
 best to befriend the supposed soul of his child, or in the other 
 case consider himself nearly related to the widow. 
 
 But the most intelligent Greenlanders maintain, that the 
 soul is a being purely spiritual, entirely distinct from the 
 body and from matter in general, that it requires no earthly 
 sustenance, and that while the body corrupts in the grave, 
 it shall even retain its life and consciousness, nourished by 
 some etherial substance of the nature of which they are ig- 
 norant. The Angekoks, who profess to have paid frequent 
 visits to the land of souls, describe them to be soft, yielding, 
 and even intangible to those who attempt to seize them, 
 having neither flesh, bones, nor sinews. 
 
 Hence we may easily imagine their ideas concerning the 
 state of spirits after death. In general they represent it to 
 
246 parry's second vovage 
 
 be uncliangeable. unceasing, and much more nappy than 
 this mortal life ; but concerning the situation and privilegci 
 of the beatific abode of departed spirits, their opinions vary. 
 Since the Greenlanders obtain their best and principal sus- 
 tenance from the sea, many have placed it in the depths of 
 the ocean or under the earth, and suppose the deep chasms 
 in the rocks to be its avenues. There dwells Tomgarsuk 
 and his mother. There is perpetual summer, and clear sun- 
 shine uninterrupted by night. There is the limpid stream, 
 and a superabundance of birds, fishes, seals, and rein- deer, 
 which may be caught without trouble, or are even found 
 boiling alive in a large kettle. But this is only to be the 
 abode of such as have been inured to labour, which in their 
 estimation is the chief of virtues, who have performed such 
 mighty exploits as killing whales and seals, or endured nu- 
 merous hardships, including those who have been drowned 
 in the sea, or died in child-birth. 
 
 It is therefore evident that they have some faint idea of 
 i-ewards and punishments. Departed spirits do not however 
 make a joyful and immediate entrance into these elysian fields, 
 but must first slide for the space of five days, or, according 
 to others, for a still longer period, down a rough rock, which 
 the Greenlanders, by a strange contradiction, represent to 
 be quite bloody. Whether this invention has its founda- 
 tion in any notion of purgatory, or is only according to the 
 adage that through many trials we enter heaven, cannot be 
 determined. They always lament the fate of those poor souls, 
 who have to undertake their journey in cold, stormy wea- 
 ther, during which they may easily perish. This is called 
 the second death, from which there is no recovery. The 
 survivors therefore for five days after the decease of their re- 
 lative, abstain from certain meats, and from all bustling 
 work, exclusive of the capture of seals, that the spirit may 
 not be disturbed or lost upon its dangeTous expedition. It 
 appears probable from several circumstances, that tlieir fore- 
 fart! lers offered up sacrifices for the souls of departed relatives. 
 
TO THE KORTH POLE- 247 
 
 So much is evident, that the stupid Greenlanders as well^ 
 as the enlightened heathen of ancient times, shudder at the 
 thought of absolute annihilation. 
 
 Those among the natives who are more struck with the 
 beauty and majesty of the heavenly bodies, seek for the 
 happy residence of the dead, in the highest heavens, above 
 the rainbow. They describe the passage to it to be so quick 
 and easy, that the souls the same evening in which they 
 leave the body, arrive at the moon, who was formerly a 
 Greenlander, put up at his house, and dance and play at 
 ball with their companions. They afterwards encamp about 
 a large lake stocked with vast quantities of fishes and birds. 
 When this lake overflows it rains upon the earth. Should 
 the dam break do\vn, there would be an universal deluge. 
 
 The first party, on the contrary, maintain that only use- 
 less idle people, ascend into the sky, suffer great want there, 
 are very lean and feeble, and besides have no rest owing to 
 the rapid circumvolution of the heavens. This is especially 
 the case with wicked members of society, sufch as witches, 
 who are so tormented by ravens, that they cannot prevent 
 these birds from tearing their hair. The other sect, how- 
 ever, will not allow this to be their lot. By their own ac- 
 count, they repair to a large assembly of their equals, and 
 feai*t upon seals'-heads, which though continually devoured^ 
 can never be consumed. 
 
 But those who reason more rationally, and consider the 
 soul to be an immiiterial substance, laugh at all those ab- 
 surdities, and affirm that a paradise so nearly resembling 
 our mortal state, and where the souls are engaged in such 
 earthly pursuits, cannot last long. By their accounts, the 
 souls pass after death into tranquil abodes. Of their suste- 
 nance and occupations they do not pretend to know any 
 thing. On the other hand, they describe hell to be a 
 gloomy subterranean mansion filled with everlasting horror 
 and anguish. Such generally lead an orderly life, and ab« 
 stain from every thing which they conceive to be sinful. 
 
f48 patiryVs second voyaqe 
 
 Whoever is acquainted with the corrupt ideas of ancient 
 philosophers, concerning the soul and a future state, will 
 not wonder at the stupidity of the Greenlanders on these sub- 
 jects, but rather observe a penetration and insight which does 
 not mark their ideas and conduct in general. Their dim 
 fjonceptions of religious truth we may conjecture to be some 
 small remnant of light possessed by the first men, and pre- 
 served through the progress of tradition, which in propor- 
 tion as their posterity removed to a distance from the seat 
 of civilization, would of course become more and more ob- 
 scured by the idle fancies of superstition. According to all 
 accounts of the North Americans and Asiatic; Tartars, their 
 way of life, manners, and opinions coincide in a great mea- 
 sure with those of the Greenlanders, though the latter in 
 proportion to their greater isolation and farther removal to 
 the north, have lost more of the ideas and customs of their 
 forefathers. The Greenlanders may also have obtained some 
 information on religious subjects from the old Norwegian 
 christians, and afterwards have forgotten or altered it ac- 
 cording to their own way of thinking; especially as the rem- 
 nant of the Norwegians were in all probability incorporated 
 with the Aborigines of the country. 
 
 Similar traditions exist among them concerning the crea- 
 tion, the end of the world, and the deluge, which are in part not 
 more erroneous and contradictory than the opinions of the 
 Greeks in the fabulous jiges. We shall only mention a few 
 of them. The first man, whom they called KaUak, rose 
 out of the earth, and soon after, a woman was formed out 
 of his thumb, from whom sprang the whole human race. 
 To the latter many s^so ascribe the origin of the vegetable 
 and animal creation. The woman is said to have brought 
 death into the world, by saying, " Let these die, that those 
 who follow after may have room to live." A Greenland 
 woman brought forth the Kablunoet (foreigners,) and some 
 dogs which devoured their father. One of these foreigners 
 liaving used contemptuous expressions to a Greenlander, 
 
TO TIIE NORTH POLE. 249 
 
 because he coukl strike no birds, was killed by the latter with 
 a dart. A war immediately took place, in whiqh the Green- 
 laaders proved victorious, ?ind exterminated all the strangers. 
 This last tradition has an evident allusion to the massacre of 
 the old Norwegians, for whom the natives harbpur such a 
 <leep rooted hatred, that they ascribe their origin to, the trans- 
 fo^^mation of dogs into men. Fishes were produced from 
 chips of wood which a Gveenlander threw into the sea. Of 
 the deluge, concerning which aln^os.t every heathen nation 
 has some notion, the missionavies found a very plai^ tradi- 
 tion among the Greenlaqders-, namely, that the world was 
 turned upside down, and all the inhabitants drowned, with 
 the exception of those who we^e transforme4 into spi^'its of 
 fire. One nia,n reinained alive> who afterwards struck the 
 ground with a stick, upon whicl> a woman rose out of it, and 
 they peopled the woHd anew. They also relate that farther 
 up in the Coventry, where no men have ever resided, remains 
 of fishes, and whalebone are to be foun4 on the top of a 
 mountain, from which they justly draw the conclusion, that 
 the earth has been covered with an inundation. 
 
 Of the end of the world, and the resurrection of the dead, 
 they have scarcely any idea. Some of them, however, affirm 
 that souls loiter near the graves of the bodies which they 
 anime^ted, for five days. The latter then rise again, and 
 pursue the same course of life in another world, which they 
 were accustorned to in this- They therefore always lay the 
 hunting implements of a deceased person near his grave. 
 lliis childish opinion is, however, ridiculed by more ob- 
 servant Greenlanders, who perceive that the deceased and 
 his weapans remain unmoved, and go into coiruption toge- 
 ther. The following seems to bear moie ev\dien t mark sofa tra- 
 dition relative to the resurrection, and is the more remarkable, 
 as it involves belief in a superior Being. They say, that af- 
 ter the death of the whole human race, the solid mass of the 
 earth will be shattered into small fragments, which will be 
 (jleared by a mighty deluge from the blood of the dead : a 
 
 lill 2K 
 
250 PARRY*S SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 tempest will then unite the purified particles, and g-ive them 
 a more beautiful form, the new world will not be a wilder- 
 ness of barren rocks, but a plain clothed with everlasting 
 verdure, and covered with a superfluity of animals ; for they 
 believe that all the present animal creation will be revivified. 
 As for the men, Pirksoma, i. e. He that is above, shaU 
 breathe upon them : but of thi& personage they can give no 
 farther account. 
 
 Besides the soul of man, the Greenlanders speak of other 
 greater and lesser spirits, which bear some affinity to the 
 gods and demi-gods of the ancients. Two are pre-eminent, 
 a good and a bad divinity. The good is called Torngarsuk* 
 He is the oracle of the Angekoks, on whose account they 
 undertake so many journeys to his happy subterranean re- 
 gions, in order to confer with him about diseases, and their 
 cure, fishing, and the changes of the weather. Their ac- 
 counts of his person differ very much. According to some 
 he is of small stature. Some affirm that he resembles an im- 
 mense white bear ; others a giant with one arm ; while others 
 again contend that he is no bigger than a man's finger. He 
 is, however, allowed by all to be immortal, but yet might 
 be killed, were any one to break wind in a house where 
 witchcraft is carrying on. 
 
 The other great but mischievous spirit, is a female with- 
 out name. Whether she is Torngarsuk's wife or his mo- 
 ther, is not agreed. The natives of the north believe, that 
 Bhe IS the daughter of the mighty Angekok, who tore Disko 
 island from the continent near BaaVs River, and towed it 
 an hundred miles farther north. This northern Proserpine 
 lives under the ocean, in a large house, in which she en- 
 thrals all the sea-monsters by the efficacy of her spells. Sea- 
 fowls swim about in the tub of traiu under her lamp. The 
 portals of her palace are guarded by rampant seals, which are 
 exceedingly vicious. Yet their place is often supplied by a 
 large dog, which never sleeps longer than a second at a 
 time, and can oonseauently rarely be surprised. When 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 251 
 
 Jtie:e is a scarcity of seals and fishes, an Angekok must un- 
 dertake a journey to her abode for a handsome reward. His 
 Tomgak or familiar spirit, who has previously given him all 
 j)roper instructions, conducts him in the first place under 
 the earth or sea. He then passes through the kingdom of 
 souls, who spend a life of jollity and ease. Their progress 
 is soon after intercepted by a frightful vacuity, over which 
 a narrow wheel is suspended, and whirls round with won- 
 derful rapidity. When he has been fortunate in getting over 
 the Torngak l^eads Iiini by the hand upon a rope stretched 
 across fhe chasm, and through the sentry of seals, into the 
 place of the fury. As soon as she espies her unwelcome 
 guests, she trembles and foams with rage and hastens to 
 set on fire the wing of a sea^fowl, for the stench of this would 
 enable her to take the suffocated Ani^ekok and his Torngak 
 captives. But these heroes seize her before she can effect 
 the fatal fumii^ation, pull her down by the hair, and strip 
 her of her filthy amulets, which by their occult powers en- 
 slave the inhabitants of the ocean. Tlie enchantment being 
 dissolved, the captive creatures directly ascend to the sur- 
 face of the sea, and the successful champion has no difficul- 
 ties whatever on his journey back. They do not however think, 
 that she is so malicious as to aim at making mankind eternally 
 miserable, and therefore do not desciibe her dwelling as a 
 hell, but a place abounding in the necessaries of life ; yet 
 no one desires to be near her. On the contrary, they greatly 
 venerate T-omgarsuk; and though they do not hold him to 
 be the Author of the Universe, they wish after death to go 
 to him and share in his aflluence. Many Greenlandevs, 
 when they hear of God and his Almighty power are easily 
 led to identify him with Tovngarsuk. The very etymology 
 of the \>ord seems to denote that they at least formerly re- 
 garded him as a Divinity. They call the soul of man Tam- 
 gek ; a spirit in general Torngak ; a great spirit in their 
 language is Torngarsoak, which is abbreviated into Torn- 
 garsuk. Tlic luduins ol America also generally denominate 
 
25Q parry's sfxcnd voyage. 
 
 the Divine Being, the Great Spirit, in contradistinction td 
 the Manitu or lesser spirits, who inhabit all creatures, ani- 
 mate and inanimate. They honour Tomgarsuk as much as 
 ancient heathens did Jupiter, Pluto, or their other principal 
 divinities, yet they do not regard him as thM Eternal Being, 
 to whom every thing owes its existence. They pay him u6 
 I'eligious hdnours or worship, regarding hini as much too 
 beneficent a being to require any propitiations, bribes, 6t 
 intreaties; though it cannbt well be construed into any 
 thing but a sacrifice, when a Gr^enlander lays a piece of 
 blubber or skin near a large stone, very often part of the 
 flesh of that rein-deer, which is the first fruits of the chase. 
 They cannot assign any other Reason for this proceedings 
 except that their ancestors have done so before them, in or- 
 der to ensure success in hunting. 
 
 No one but an Angekok can obtain a sight olT the greater 
 spirits : but with the inferior sort, which inhabit all the ele- 
 ments, most pretend to haVe some acquaintance. 
 
 In the air dwells a certain Innua, (A possessor,) whom 
 they call Innerterrirsok ; the forewamer, becaiise he informs 
 the Greenlanders, through the medium of an Angekok, from 
 what they are to abstain, if they Wish to be fortunate. Their 
 Erloersortok also inhabits the air, and lies in wait for 
 those souls which pass upward*, in older to take out theit 
 entrails and devour them. He is described to be as leai^, 
 gloomy, and cVuel as a Saturn. The Kongeusetokit are 
 marine spirits : they catch and devour the foxes, who fi'e- 
 quent the strand in order to catch fish. Tliere tre also spi- 
 rits of the fire called Ingnersoit, who inhabit the rocks Ott 
 the sea-shore, and appear in the form of the meteor, vul- 
 garly called jack-with-a-lanthorn. They are said to have 
 been the inhabitants of the world befoie the deluge. When 
 the earth was turned roWncl and immersed in water, they 
 changed themselves into flames, and took refuge among the 
 rocks. They frequently steal away men from the strand, 
 in order to have companions, and treat them very kindly. 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 263 
 
 The Tuimersoit and Iniiiuirolit are mountain spirits; the 
 fonner six ells, and the latter only six inches long", but at the 
 same time exceedingly clever. These latter are said to have 
 taught the Europeans their arts. Tlie Erkiglit are warlike 
 spirits, and cruel enemies of mankind ; but inhabit only the 
 east side of the country, and are perhaps meant to signify 
 the remnant of the ancient Nomians. Silla^ksartok is the 
 i^olus of Greenland. He dwells upon an ice-field, and re- 
 Igulates the weather. Die water has its peculiar spirits ; 
 and when the Greenlanders meet with an unknown sprin.e:, 
 in cast there is no Angekok at hand, the oldest man in the 
 company nlUst first drink of it, in order to rid the water of 
 any malicious spirits. When certain meats prove detrimen- 
 tal to any one, esptecially to women who are great with child , 
 and have infants at their breasts, the Nerrim Jnnuet, (mas- 
 ters of diet,) are blamed for enticing them to eat contrary 
 to the rules of abstinence. Both the sun and moon are inha- 
 bited by their separate spirits who were formerly men ; and 
 the air itself is a spiritual intelligence which men may irri- 
 tate by criminal conduct, and apply to for counsel ; a notion 
 which can surely not excite much surprise amongst those, 
 who, according to the fashion of the day, are accustomed 
 to call upon the heavens for their direction and blessing. 
 If a man of some genius would undertake to reduce tlic 
 Greenlandic superstitions to a regular system, they might 
 perhaps rival the mythology of the Greeks and Romans, in 
 every thing but its obscenity. 
 
 The Greenlanders also relate many stories of ghosts, and 
 imagine that all m6nstrous births are changed into bugbears, 
 which scar6 away th6 birds and seals. The Angekoks alone 
 can see such a spirit or Anjiak and seize it in the air. When 
 engaged ill this kind of hunting, they must b6 blindfolded, 
 and as soon as they have made themselves sure of tl eir 
 game, either tear it to pieces or devour it immediately. 
 
 That they alsd believe in apparitions of the dead, is plain 
 from the following well authenticated relation. 
 
254 parry's second voyaok 
 
 A boy while playing in a field at noon-day, was suddenly 
 seized by his mother, who had been Ijuiied in the place, and 
 addressed in words like tliese : '• Fear not ; I am tliy mo- 
 ther, and love you much 5 you will come to strange people 
 who will instruct you in the knowledge of him who created 
 heaven and earth, &c." The story was related by the boy 
 himself to a missionary after his baptism, and confirmed by 
 many others. 
 
 A Greenlander previous to assuming the office of Ange- 
 kok, or diviner, must procure one of the spirits of the ele- 
 ments for his Torngak or familiar. Marvellous tales, 
 framed to support the belief of a real intercourse with spi- 
 rits, are related of the manner in which this illapse takes 
 place. The aspirant must retire for a time into a desert, 
 cut off from the society of every human being, and spend 
 his solitude in profound meditation, ol* in invoking Torn- 
 garsuk to send him a Torngak. This separation from man« 
 kind, his fasting and emaciation of body, together with the 
 severe exercises of his mind, throw the imaginative facully 
 into disorder ; and various figures of men, beasts, and tnons- 
 tere, swim before his disturbed brain. He really supposes 
 these to be real spiritual existences, since he thinks of no- 
 thing else, and this throws his body into violent convulsions, 
 >vhich he labours to cherish and augment. Some who are 
 destined to the art from infancy, distinguished by a parti- 
 cular dress, and instructed by celebrated masters, find lit- 
 tle difficulty in the initiation. Several however give out 
 that they sit down on a large stone, invoke Tanigarsuk, 
 and tell him their desire. On his appearance the aspirant 
 shrieks out and dies, and lies dead for three whole days, at 
 the end of which time he comes to life, and receives Torn- 
 gak, who, on his desire, instils into him all power and know 
 ledge, and conducts him on his journey to heaven and hell. 
 
 This expedition can be made only in the end of the year. 
 The way is shortest in winter when the nights are long and 
 dark, and the rainbow, which is their first heaven, presents 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE 2.3.5 
 
 itself in the greatest proximity to the earth. Hie Angekok 
 begins the ceremony with drumming, and whins nimself 
 round with frightful contortions, till his frame is exhausted, 
 and his spirits worked up to the proper pitch of enthusiasm. 
 He is then led to the entry of the house ; one of his pupik 
 ties his head between his legs, and his hands behind his 
 back ; all the lamps are extinguished, and the windows 
 closed. No one must witness his in erview with the spi- 
 rit, nor move a finger while it is going on, lest the spirit 
 should be disturbed, or rather, lest the fraud should be de- 
 tected. After beginning a song, in which all join, he 
 groans, and puifs, and foams with great perturbation, de- 
 manding his familiar, who is frequently very slow to come. 
 If the Tomgak absolutely refuses to make his appearance, 
 the soul of the wizard sets out to fetch him. After a short 
 absence he returns with a loud laugh of joy, accompanied 
 as a sensible European, who had several times been present, 
 declared, with a rustling resembling the noise of birds fly- 
 ing over the roof, and then swooping down into the house. 
 If, however, the Torngak comes voluntarily, he remains 
 without at the entrance of the avenue ; and there the An- 
 gekok consults him on any subject, respecting which the 
 Greenlanders wish for information. Two difierent voices 
 are distinctly heard, the one on the outside of the house, the 
 other within. The answer is always dark and ambiguous. 
 The hearers unravel it amongst themselves, and if they are 
 not unanimous in their explanation, they beg the Tomgak to 
 give the Angekok a clearer response. A strange Tomgak 
 sometimes comes, whom neither the Angekok nor the audi- 
 tors can understand ; so that the answer requires as much 
 labour to develope it as those of the Delphic oiacle, aad 
 leaves sufficient room for the sorcerer to exculpate himself, 
 however the prediction turns out. 
 
 But if his commission extends further, he soars aloft with 
 'lis Torngak on a long string, up to the realm of souls, 
 wheie he holds a short conference with the Angekok Poglik, 
 
95G parry's second voyage 
 
 the fat or famous sages, and learns the fate of a sick patient, 
 or even brings him back a new soul ; or else he wings hi9 
 way downwards to the Goddess of Hell,, and* liberates the 
 animals detained by enchantment. But he soon returns, 
 and having found means to disengage himself from his let- 
 ters, begins to howl and drum most hideously. He then 
 relates all that he has seen and heard, though panting for 
 breath, like one quite jaded with his excursions. After- 
 wards he strikes up , a song, and going round the assembled 
 circle, gives each his touch or benediction. The lamps are 
 now lighted, and the Angekok is seen with a pale bewil- 
 dered look, and in a state of such exhaustion that he can 
 scarcely articulate. 
 
 It is not every probationer that succeeds in this art, and 
 one who has drummed ten times in vain for his Tomgak 
 must resign his offije. But the successful conjurer may, 
 after a certain period, assume the dignity of Angekok Pog- 
 lik. The candidate must lie in a dark house unbound, and 
 after he has intimated his wishes by singing and drumming, 
 if he is thought worthy by Torngarsuk, though few attain 
 to this high honour, a white bear comes and drags him 
 away by the toe into the sea. There he is devoured by 
 this bear and a walrus, who, however, soon vomit him up 
 again into his own d^k chamber, and his spirit re-ascends 
 from the earth, to animate the body. And now the mighty 
 sorcerer is complete. 
 
 The coarse imposture of the whole process is palpably 
 manifest, and has, in many instances, been made apparent 
 to the Greenlanders themselves. But though the majority 
 of their Angekoks are doubtlessly mere jugglers, the class 
 includes a few persons of real talent and penetration, and 
 perhaps a greater number of ^-enuine phantasts, whose un- 
 derstanding has been subverted by the influence of some 
 impression strongly working on their fervid imagination. 
 
 Those sensible individuals who are best entitled to the 
 name of wise-men, or Angekoks, for the import of the word 
 
 .i^^mji 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 257 
 
 is great and wise, have, either from the instmctions of theiF 
 fathers, or from their own ohservation and long experience, 
 acquired a useful knowledge of nature, which enables them 
 to g^ve a pretty confident opinion, to such as consult them 
 on the state of the weather, and the success of their fishery. 
 They discover equal sagacity in their treatment of the sick, 
 whose spirits they keep up by charms and amulets, while, 
 as long as they ha^^e any hopes of recovery, they prescribe 
 a judicious regimen. Their unblameahle deportment and 
 superior intelligence, have made them the oracles of their 
 countrymen, and they may be deservedly considered as the 
 physicians, philosophers, and moralists of Greenland. 
 
 Persons of this cl^ss, when put to the question by Euro- 
 peans, avow the falsehood of their apparitions, converse 
 with spirits, and a^l the mummery connected with it; but 
 still they appeal to their ancient traditions for the truth of 
 revelations made to their forefathers, and miraculous cures 
 which they performed by a certain syippathy. With regard 
 to their own practice, they readily admit that their inter- 
 course with the spiritual world, is pierely a pretence to de- 
 ceive the simple, and that their frightful gesticulations are 
 necess^,ry to sustaiii their credit, and give weight to their 
 prescriptions. 
 
 Still there are many, even of those that have renounced 
 these impostures along with heathenism, who aver that they 
 have frequently been thrown into supernatural trances, and 
 that in this state a succession of images appeared before 
 them, which they took for revelations, hut that afterwards, 
 the whole scene appeared like a dream. A strong imagina- 
 tion may easily produce a world of fanciful conceits. Many 
 of the Greenlanders are strongly inclined to dream, and 
 things which had never entered into their waking thoughts, 
 are presented to them ip sleep, with all the liveliness oi real- 
 ity. And who will say that the prince of darkness may noi 
 countenance these lying arts, to confer honour on his useful 
 instruments* and assist them to delude a poor and ignorant 
 
 CU 2 L 
 
258 parry's second voyage 
 
 race? So much is certain that ADgekoks who have laid 
 aside their profession in the waters of baptism, while they 
 acknowledge that the main part is a tissue of fraud and im- 
 posture, are steadfast in asserting, that there is an inter- 
 ference of some supernatural agency ; something which they 
 now indeed abhor, but are unable to describe. 
 
 The bulk of these diviners are, however, barefaced im- 
 postors, who pretend to have the power of bringing on, and 
 driving away diseases, enchanting arrows, exorcising s,pi- 
 rits, bestowing blessings, and of performing a whole cata- 
 logue of similar feats. The dread excited by these, ima- 
 gined powers of good and evil, pjocures them a formidable 
 name, and an ample reward for their services. These sor- 
 cerers mutter a charm over a sick man, and blow upon him 
 that he may recover; or they fetch him a healthy sou), 
 and breathe it into him ; or they confine themselves to a 
 simple prediction of life or death. For this purpose they 
 tie a bandage round the head, by which they raise it up and 
 let it fall : if it feels light, the patient will recover ; if it is 
 heavy, he will die. In the same manner they inquire the 
 fate of a hunter who has stayed unusually long at sea ; they 
 bind the head of the nearest relation, and lift it up by a stick ; 
 a tub of water is placed beneath, and there they behold the 
 absentee either overturned inhiskajak, or rowmg on in his 
 erect posture. They will also cite the soul of a man, whom 
 they wish to injure, to appear before them in the dark, and 
 wound it with a spear, upon which their enemy must con- 
 sume away by a slow disease. The company present wi?^' 
 pretend to recognize the man by his voice. 
 
 8uch malevolent wizards as pride themselves most upon 
 their power of doing mischief, are called Illiseetsok. Many 
 old hags, who have no other chance of supporting them- 
 Belves, likewise carry on this profession. They are par 
 ♦icularly skilful in sucking out of a swelled leg, lumps of 
 hair, and scraps of leather, with which they have previouBly 
 filled their mouths. 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 259 
 
 These bunglers have nearly brought the whole craft into 
 disgrace, particularly since the missionaries have exposed 
 so many glaring instances of fraud ; so that a Greenlander 
 has sometimes been courageous enough to seize the Ange- 
 kok during his journey to hell, and throw him out of the 
 house. Yet since they have observed many cases in which 
 the predictions of the genuine Angekoks have been verified, 
 and that many patients, whose lives have been charmed, 
 have recovered, as in case of a miscarriage, the blame is 
 easily thrown upon the ambiguity of the oracle, or the mis- 
 chievous interposition of one of the Illiseetsok ; and as these 
 last, when brought out to suffer death, staunchly refuse to 
 betray their craft by a confession of deceit, dying Hke mar- 
 tyrs for their occult art, the Angekoks have still so much in- 
 fluence over the greater part of their countrymen, that thos© 
 who ridicule their juggling tricks, implicitly follow their 
 whimsical prescriptions, thinking that if they are useless, 
 the}' will at least do no harm. 
 
 The prescriptions of the Angekoks relate either to certain 
 amulets, or to a course of diet, which includes the healthy 
 as well as the sick. Women in child-bed have particularly 
 much to observe. They dare not eat in the open air : no 
 one else must drink at their water- tub, or light a match at 
 their lamp, nor must they themselves boil any thing over it 
 for a long time. Their meals must consist of what their own 
 husbands have caught: the fish must be eaten before the 
 meat, and the bones are not to be thrown out of the house. 
 The husband must abstain for several weeks from all pur- 
 suits except the necessary fishing. The ostensible reason of 
 these restrictions is to prevent the death of the child, though 
 it is plain that they were originally invented for the conve- 
 nience and preservation of the feeble mother. 
 
 Abstinence from food arwi labour of certain kinds is like- 
 wise enjoined to young maidens, who have the misfortune to 
 be soiled by the ordure of the sun or moon, or more properly 
 speaking of a bird flying over-head. Those who neglect 
 
$60 parry's second voyage 
 
 these precautions are liable to some mischance, perhaps, 
 even the loss of their honour or lives : besides, the Torn- 
 gak of the air might be provoked on their account to raise 
 stormy weather. The men never sell a seal on the day it is 
 caught, and they always keep back the head or some other 
 part, if it be but a few bristles from the beard, lest they 
 should forfeit their luck. 
 
 Their amulets or pendants are so various that one con- 
 jurer laughs at another's. They consist of an old piece of 
 wood, a stone, a bone, or the beak and claws of a bird, 
 hung round the neck, or a thong bf leather tied round the 
 forehead, breast, or arms. 
 
 These potent charms are preservatives against spectres, 
 diseases, and death ; they confer prosperity, and they es- 
 pecially save children from losing their souls in thunder 
 storms, or panic terrors. A rag or shoe of an European hung 
 about their children, instils into them some portion of Eu- 
 ropean skill and ability. They are particularly eager to get 
 an European to blow upon them. When they set out on 
 the whale-fishery, they must not only be neatly dressed, 
 but the lamps in their tents must be extinguished, that the 
 shy whale may not be frighted. The boat's prow must be 
 adorned with a fox's head, and the hdrpoon with an eagle's 
 beak. In the rein-deer chase, they throw away a piece of 
 flesh for the ravens. The heads of their seals must not be 
 fractured nor thrown into the s^a, but piled up before the 
 door of the house, lest the souls of the seals should be in- 
 censed and scare away the rest, or perhaps that their own 
 vanity may be gratified by these trophies of their valour. 
 The kajak is frequently adorned with a small model of a 
 kajak, containing a miniature image of a man bearing a 
 sword ; sometimes with a dead sparrow or snipe, a piece of 
 wood, a stone, feathers, or hair, to ward off danger, Buc 
 it is observed, that those who chiefly make Use of these 
 charms, are in general the most unfortunate, since they aro 
 either unskilful persons, and therefore timid, or so secure 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 261 
 
 in their superstition, they needlessly run into danger. A 
 virtue is supposed to lie in foxs' teeth which is powerful 
 enough to extract all noxious humours. 
 
 The Greenlanders likewise use pendants for mere orna- 
 ment ; and some tie strings round the arms or legs of their 
 children, to ascertain their §^*6wth. 
 
 Greenland is well known as the most northern tract of 
 land lying between Europe and America ; and considering 
 its vast extent, compared with the small part as yet known 
 to Europeans, may be justly numbered among the unex- 
 plored regions of the north. Various navigators have 
 coasted it from the most southern point, the promontory of 
 Farewell, in lat 59', proceeding in a north-easterly direc- 
 tion towards Spitzbergen, as far as 80" north latitude, and 
 towards the north or north-west as far as lat 78". No ves- 
 sel, however, has hitherto gained its northern extremity, so 
 that it cannot be determined with any degree of certainty, 
 whether it be an island or connected with some other conti- 
 nent. Tliat it is joined towards the east to Spitzbergen, 
 Nova Zembla, or the north of Tartaiy, was only a vaguo 
 conjecture which has been exploded by the discoveries of 
 the Dutch and Russians. Another supposition, that it ter- 
 minates on the north-west in America, admits of being sup- 
 ported by much more probable arguments. In the first 
 places, Davis's Strait, or more properly Baffin's Bay, is 
 known gradually to contract towards the north ; and the 
 shore, though generally high where it borders on the pen 
 sea, flattens as we advance nearer the pole. Again, the 
 tide, which near Cape Farewell, or even Cockin's Sound 
 lat 05*, rises at new and full moon more than 18 feet, sel- 
 dom exceeds two fathoms in the neighbourhood of Disko, 
 and as we preceed still farther north, entirely disappears. 
 
 To these reasons may be added the testimony of the Greeu- 
 landers themselves, though not much to be relied upon. 
 According to their accounts, the strait at last becomes sa 
 narrow, that the natives of one coast may be heard oy their 
 
Sijo parry's second voyage 
 
 neighbours on the other ; and that were it not for the rapi- 
 dity of the current, which sets in a southerly direction 
 through the middle, they would even be able to visit each 
 other. 
 
 Th« name Greenland was first given to the east side by 
 its discoverers, the Norwegians and Icelanders, on account 
 of its uncommonly verdant appearance. This side, gene- 
 rally called ancient or Lost Greenland, is at present un- 
 known ; since, owing to the prodigious quantities of float- 
 ing ice, none are able to approach it. 
 
 The tales of Icelandic writers, who describe in glowing 
 colours the fertility of ancient Greenland, with the beauty 
 of its villages and churclies, are generally considered to be 
 completely chimerical. However, it ought to be mentioned, 
 that traces of a superior state of cultivation have been ob- 
 iserved also on the west coast : and remnants are still to bi; 
 seen there of dwelling houses and churches, probably erected 
 by the Norwegians; so that in this respect it may have 
 been no way inferior to the more famous eastern side. 
 
 West Greenland is inhabited by Europeans between the 
 92d and 71st degrees of north latitude, and has sometimes 
 been erroneously termed by voyagers Davis's Strait, which 
 again has not unfrequently been confounded with the whole 
 arm of the sea separating Greenland from America. Davis's 
 Strait, properly so called, is only that narrow channel, 
 about 40 leaguers broad, between the promontory of Wal- 
 singham on James's island in North America, and South 
 Bay in Greenland; and extends from lat. 71" as far as Disko 
 island. 
 
 It is called after John Davis, an Englishman, who dis- 
 covered it while endeavouring to find the north-west pas- 
 sage, and has since that time been visited by various 
 nations, on account of the whale-fishery ; especially by the 
 Dutch and English, who have furnished the best outlines 
 of the coast. 
 
 The shore, on this side, is high, nigged, and barren, 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 2(J3 
 
 rising close to the water's edge, into tremendous precipices 
 and lofty mountains, crowned with inaccessible cliffs, which 
 may be seen from the sea at the distance of a hundred miles. 
 In these respects, it bears some similarity to the coast of 
 Norway, with this difference, that the Norwegian moun- 
 tains are clothed with wood, and rise with a more gradual 
 ascent. 
 
 All the Greenland hills, except where the rocks are smooth 
 and perpendicular, are covered with eternal ice and snow> 
 which accumulate particularly on elevated flats, entirely filling 
 many valleys, and in all probability increasing from year to 
 year. Those rocks on which the snow cannot lie appear 
 at a distance of a dusky-grey colour, and without any sign% 
 of vegetation ; but upon nearer inspection they are found to 
 be streaked with numerous veins of coloured stone, with here 
 and there a little earth, which affords a scanty nourishment 
 to some hardy species of heath. The valleys, which contain 
 several small brooks and ponds, are overgrown with a sort 
 of low brush-wood. 
 
 The whole coast is indented with a series of deep bays or 
 fiordes, which penetrate a great way into the land, and are 
 sprinkled with innumerable islands, of various dimensions, 
 and the most fantastical shapes. 
 
 Of so wild a country, only thinly inhabited on the coast, 
 a long geographical description would be needless. It may, 
 however, be proper to give a brief account of the principal 
 places, as they lie in order along the shore, obtained chiefly 
 from a merchant who resided a great number of years in the 
 country. 
 
 The majority of the Greenland nation live between Staa- 
 tenhuk and lat, 62* ; or, as the natives usually express it, 
 in the south. In this part of Greenland no Europeans have 
 settled, so that it is but very partially known. 
 
 Farther north the first place deserving notice is the colony 
 of Fredericshaab, founded in the year 1742 by Jacob Seve- 
 rin» a Danish merchant, upon a projecting point of land 
 
«d4 parry's second voyage 
 
 called by the Greenlanders Pamiut or a tail. It is an eli- 
 gible place for trade, and possesses a good harbour, about 
 a mile distant from the open sea. On an island to which 
 the merchant vessels resort, many Greenlanders have fixed 
 their abode, as they find there abundance of seals and rein- 
 deer. Three leagues north of Fredericshaab is a bay 
 abounding in capelins and herrings. 
 
 At a distance of about nine leagues from the colony is the 
 well-known ice-blink. It consists of a large and elevated 
 sheet of ice, casting by its reflection a brightness over the 
 sky, similar to the northern lights, which may be seen at a 
 great distance from the sea. The tnouth of the adjoining 
 bay or fiorde, is blocked up by ice driven out by the efflux 
 of the tide, and so wonderfully piled up by the waves, that 
 the spaces between the islands are completely vaulted over, 
 and the whole presents the sublime spectacle of a stupen- 
 dous bridge of ice, of eighteen miles long and four and three 
 quarters broad. Under the arches of the bridge, which are 
 from twenty to sixty yards high, boats may enter the har- 
 bour, though threatened with destruction by the masses im- 
 pending from above. Large pieces of ice also, detached 
 from the mountains, are frequently driven through by the 
 tide. When the Greenlanders wish to fish in this bay, they 
 carry their kajaks over land, and then find an open sheet of 
 water, twelve leagues long and about one in breadth. 
 
 The remains of Greenland houses are found along the 
 shores, whence may be concluded that the mouth of the bar 
 has not always been closed. The points of land which run 
 out a great wj^y into the sea, on both sides of the ice-blink, 
 consist of banks of sand so fine and light, that when agi- 
 tated by the gentlest breeze, it darkens the air like a cloud, 
 and fills the eyes and mouths of all who approach within 
 eight leagues of the shore. 
 
 About twenty leagues from the colony there is an opening* 
 in the land, called in the maps Bear's Sound, througli 
 which many suppose that there is a passage to the east side^ 
 
TO THE NORTH PoLE. 265 
 
 If credit may be given to the accounts of the Greenlanders, 
 the remains of old Norwegian buildings are found on its 
 shores. 
 
 Not far from this opening there is a lake of brackish wa« 
 tcr, which has a communication with the sea, at high water, 
 by means of two narrow channels. In spring, speckled seals 
 flock in great numbers to this lake, and are easily taken by 
 the Greenlanders in an ebb-tide. 
 
 In latitude sixty-three degrees, and twenty leagues north 
 of Fredericshaab, there is a narrow bay called Fish-bay, 
 from its containing a great variety of fish. Near its mouth 
 are two considerable islands, on one of which is a lofty 
 mountain, by comparing which with the circumjacent sum. 
 mits the Greenlanders trace their way to the bays frequented 
 by seals. 
 
 Farther up in the bay, ruins are found, and among them 
 pieces of a metal similar to bronze, probably fragments of 
 bells used in the old Norwegian churches. Eight miles 
 farther north lies Innuksuk, a Greenland place of residence ; 
 and again twelve miles farther, the Groede Fiorde, also fre- 
 quented by Greenlanders. At a short distance from thence 
 is a large creek, with an even, sandy shore, which, on ac- 
 cound of its extent and flatness, is called the muster-place, 
 but at piesent uninhabited. Here the trade of the lodge 
 may be said to terminate. 
 
 Next in order come the islands of Kellingeit, which lie 
 within the sphere of trade of the colony at Godhaab. 
 Seals are caught here in great abundance, as they may be 
 easily intercepted in the nanow channel between the islands. 
 Five leagues from hence is Merkoitsok, and the Buxe Fiorde, 
 a Dutch harbour, where roving Greenlanders frequentl} 
 spend the winter. The island Kellingarsoak, twelve miles 
 farther north, was formerly well-peopled, and is only a short 
 distance from the river Kariak, on the banks of which many 
 Greenlanders still reside. 
 
 About four miles from Kariak, the large Amaralik Fiorde, 
 
 a 12 2 M 
 
w 
 
 ■,if\7.'7^f>T-< 4's*-^-'>f»-''?fe"^^'r'i,v -^ r^^^jff^^r.f 
 
 260 PA key's sfxond voyage 
 
 thirteen leagues in length and three in breadth, penetrates 
 into the land in a north-easterly direction. Close by its 
 mouth is the Priester Fiorde, so called because the first 
 missionary, Mr. Egede, had proposed settling a colony 
 thercy on account of the abundance of grass and underwood 
 in the place. The rein-deer and seal-hunt in the Amaralik 
 Fiorde is very productive. In the adjacent country there 
 are niins of old Norwegian villages, with abundance of free- 
 stone, and veins of red granite ; but very few Greenlanders 
 reside in the neighbourhood, 
 
 A few miles farther is the HioTte Tak, or Stag's Horn. 
 This is the highest mountain in the neighbourhood, perhaps 
 in the whole country. The highest of its peaks is visible 
 from the sea, at the distance of one hundred miles and up- 
 wards, and owing to its steepness is free from snow, except 
 in the hollows. This mountain is a beacon tb navigators, 
 and a weather -guide to the Greenlanders ; for when a tem- 
 pest threatens from the south, its summits are enveloped 
 in a light mist. 
 
 Proceeding northwards under the Malina and Kyper or 
 partridge mountains, is Godhaab, the third colony, lat. 64" 
 14', about seventy miles north of Fisher's Lodge. It is si- 
 tuated in Ball's River, a bay which runs into the land in a 
 north-westerly direction, sixty or seventy miles in length, 
 reckoning from the islands in its estuary. These islands lie 
 close together to the number of some hundreds, within a 
 compass of four leagues. The remotest of them are called 
 Kookornen or Cock islands, by the Greenlanders Kittiksut. 
 Between them and Kangek to the north is the usual passage, 
 the North Gat. Kangek, called by the Danes Hope Island, 
 is siuTounded by many smaller islands, Westerland, which 
 borders on Kangek, is separated from the main-land by a 
 narrow water, called Nepiset or Catfish Sound. In au- 
 tumn, the Greenlanders have their best seal-fishery here. 
 Towards the South, the Kookornen are separated by the 
 South Gat, another passage, from a multitude or consider- 
 
TO TflE NORTH POLE 267 
 
 able islands. On the peninsula opposite the Kookome is 
 the hai-bour with the blubber-house adjoining. About a 
 mile from the sea, the brethren's settlement of New Herin- 
 hut is situated, and the same distance farther north the co- 
 lony of Godhaab, Besides the principal building, in which 
 the factor and the missionary reside with their people, there 
 is also a store-house, smith's shop, and brewhouse belong- 
 ing to the establishment. The church stands by a broolt 
 not far distant, and the houses of the Greenlanders lie scut 
 tered round it. 
 
 Farther up is the Wildman's Ness, where Eider ducks are 
 shot in abundance during the winter evenings; and near 
 it lies the island of Saalberg or Saddlehill, so called be- 
 cause its topmost peak, which may be seen ninety miles oiF, 
 resembles a saddle in appearance. Not far from th« nee is 
 the Bear island, and close by it the island of Aupillartok. 
 Both these islands are about twenty miles in length, ai^d 
 are very elevated. They divide the channel into two bays, 
 one of which inns up north-east to Pissiksarbik, the best 
 capelin fishery. On the western side of the north bay lies 
 Kanneisut, an extensive and level coast with li.tle rocky 
 hills. It has a good salmon fisheiy, and a lake of fresh wa- 
 ter at least twenty miles long, whitih does not however cr.n- 
 tain many fish. This bay again divides into two arms, near 
 one of which, called Ujarnksoak, the finest Weichstein is 
 found, and the remains of Norwegian buildings occur in the 
 greatest abundance. This north bay is separated from that 
 of Pissiksarbik by a naiTow neck of land, and both these are 
 again divided from the Amaralik Fiorde by the long penia- 
 suki on which Godhaab stands. 
 
 Godliaab the oldest colony in the country, was founded 
 in 1721, in Kangek, by Mr. Hans Egede, the first mission- 
 ary, and Mr. Jentoft, the factor, who were commissioned 
 for this purpose by a company in Bergen. In 1728 the es- 
 tablishment was removed to the mainland by Governor Paars 
 Its trade is one of the best in the country. Formerly some 
 
268 parry's second voyage 
 
 thousands of Greenlanders inhabited the banks of this river ; 
 but since an attack of the small-pox in 1733, they have 
 decreased so much, that very few natives are seen in the 
 neighbourhood, besides those under the care of the mis 
 sionaries, and roving families of Southlandets, who are fond 
 of wintering in Kangek, 
 
 A factor who resided many years in the country, and took 
 pains to gather the most authentic information from the 
 Greenlanders, made the following estimate of the population 
 on the west coast. Within the compass of his trade, ex- 
 tending eighty miles along the coast, about BalPs river, he 
 computed only nine hundred and fifty-seven regular inha- 
 bitants. Yet this part of the country is next in population 
 to Disko Bay and the south coast. In some districts a man 
 may even travel forty miles without meeting a human being. 
 Now computing the inhabited part of the shore to be 
 eight hundred miles in length, and allowing one thousand 
 souls to a tract of eighty miles, in consideration of the su- 
 perior populousness of the north and south parts of the coast 
 to that from which the estimate is taken, it will give a total 
 of ten thousand inhabitants. The above-mentioned factor, 
 however, deducts three thousand from this amount, because 
 so many tracts of land are absolutely desert. He asserts, 
 that in the year 1730 the Greenland nation amounted to 
 thirty thousand? that in 1746, when he made his first cal- 
 culation, it could still reckon twenty thousand; and that 
 since that time it has suffered a diminution of two thirds, or 
 at least one half of its numbers. 
 
 The first station of Greenlanders from Kangek northwards 
 is Pissugbik, twenty miles distant. Eight miles further is 
 a fishing bay, where the first missionary had thoughts of 
 settling, induced by the fishery and the quantity of grass. 
 Twenty leagues from Godhaab lie the Napparsok islands. 
 Here, and on the opposite continent, grass and drift wo6d 
 are found in abundance. There is also great plenty of fish, 
 birds, and seals. The ice fields, which float with the 
 
TO THE NORTil POLE. 209 
 
 current and a strong south wind round Staatcnhuk from tlie 
 east side, do not pass beyond this point, as here the force 
 of the stream subsides, and loses itself altogether still far- 
 ther to the north. In 1756, the ship destined for Godhaab 
 was forced to run in here, and wait till a north-east wind 
 had cleared the shore of ice. 
 
 At no great distance is Omenak, a Greenland station. 
 The former inhaitants of this place were infamous for mur- 
 der throughout the country. 
 
 Forty leagues from Godhaab, lat. 65* 46', is the fourth 
 colony of Zukkerlop, (sugar-loaf,) situated on the small 
 island of Kangek, in BrUyne Bay. It was founded in 1755 
 by Order of the company of trade, by Anders Olsen, factor. 
 It owes its appellation to three conical peaks, by which the 
 seamen steer their course when entering the port. The 
 harbour is very safe and commodious, lying between two 
 little islands, a mile distant from the open sea. The coun- 
 try is barren and dreary, and has no rein-deers. Whales, 
 however, ^hich are extremely rare in more southern parts, 
 are not unfrequently seen in the bay. They make their ap- 
 pearance in January and February, but they are seldom 
 taken by the Greenlanders, and by the Europeans never, 
 owing to the want of the necessary boats and tackle. The 
 factor struck one once, and not having line enough, fas- 
 tened to it some empty casks, instead of bladders used by 
 the Greenlanders, but the fish escaped. 
 
 Coasting along by two fiordes, or bays, after a run of 
 forty miles, is a large island. It lies low, with deep val- 
 leys, and is frequented by salmon. There is found here 
 a white shining clay, which does not crack in the fire. 
 Amongst the rocks is one of particularly large size, with a 
 deep valley in the middle, which is ovei'flowed at high wa- 
 ter. Here frequently more than a hundred seals enter witli 
 the tide in fair weather, and are caught and killed by the 
 Greenlanders when the water retires. 
 
 In lat. 67* lies Wyde Fiorde, and opposite to it the island 
 
270 parry's second voyage 
 
 of Nepiset or Nepisene. Upon this island a lodge was built 
 in the year 1724, for the advantage of trade and whale fish- 
 ing ; but it was forsaken the year after, and all the houses 
 were burnt by the crews of foreign vessels. In the year 
 1729, a colony was established in the same place with a fort 
 adjoining, which were also abandoned and demolished, a 
 short time after, by order of the king. 
 
 Not far from hence, and about twenty-six leagues north 
 of the Zukkerlop, lies the Amarlok Fiorde, where the Green- 
 landers catch every year a number of whales. Here also 
 they founded the fifth colony, called Holsteinburg, in me- 
 mory of the Duke of Holstein, member of the privy -council, 
 and president of the honourable missionary society. Tlie 
 spot on which this colony is built, is one of the most eligi- 
 ble, both as an agreeable residence and convenient trading- 
 place. 
 
 Eight leagues from Holsteinburg, and in lat. 67* 30', lies 
 the well-known South Bay, the best harbour belonging to 
 the whalers, and a suitable place of rendezvous when 
 the fishing season is over. A colony was founded here in 
 1756, but since the settling of Holsteinburg, only one man 
 resides on the premises, who buys in the blubber from the 
 few Greenlanders in the neighbourhood. 
 
 The whale fishery is often very productive near the two 
 factories; but most of the Greenlanders have withdrawn 
 from their vicinity, although it is rich in all kinds of birds 
 and fishes. In the neighbourhood of the last mentioned 
 nlace, the sea is frozen throughout the winter, and not 
 clear from ice till May, when the season for catching whales 
 is past. 
 
 Next in order come Riffkol and North Bay, beyond which, 
 the sea penetrates into the land in a south-easterly direction, 
 and forms the well-known Disko Bay filled with groups of 
 small islands, of which the most considerable are, the West, 
 Whale, Green, Dog, and Dunk islands, extending partly 
 towards the east into Spiring Bay, and partly to the north, 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE, 271 
 
 as far as Disko island. The entire circuit of the bay is 
 about one hundred and twenty leagues. The land round 
 about it is high, flat on the top, and covered with ice : though 
 the shore along the roads is smooth and level. There is a 
 place in the neighbourhood called Schans, which, accord- 
 ing to the Dutch charts, contains a vein of good stone-coal, 
 though it has hitherto never been worked. It is remark- 
 able, that Disko island is frequented by rein-deer, which is 
 the case with no other. The channel which separates it 
 from the main land is called Waygat, and is about four 
 leagues in breadth. The fishery in the bay is the most pro- 
 ductive of any in the whole country ; as in winter, when it 
 is frozen, the Greenlanders kill vast numbers of seals upon 
 the ice, and in spring, frequently catch small and even full- 
 grown whales in it. It is also the yearly resort of many 
 Dutch whalers. 
 
 The population of Disko-bay is more numerous than that 
 of any other tract in Greenland, except perhaps the most 
 southern part, where there are no colonies. Trade conse- 
 quently flourishes most in its vicinity. 
 
 The eighth colony, Christianshaab, was settled in 1734, 
 by order of Mr. Jacob Severin, in Viire Bay, lat. 69* 30', or, 
 according to others, 68** 34'. 
 
 Three leagues farther to the north lies Ice Fiorde, which 
 the Greenlanders report to have been an open sound, pene- 
 trating as far as the east-side ; but it is at present entirely 
 blocked up with ice. Numerous ice-mountains of the larg- 
 est size are yearly driven out of this bay. 
 
 From Jacob's Haven, ships sail for fourteen leagues, first 
 to the north, and then westward, before they arrive at the 
 mouth of Disko-bay, passing in their course another co- 
 lony, Rittenbenk, founded in 1755, by Charles Dalager. 
 In its vicinity, a white close-grained species of whet-stone 
 is found, called oil-stone. 
 
 The next and last colony, called Noogsoak, or the Great 
 Ness, was built in the. year 1755, at the extremity of the 
 
272 parry's second voyage 
 
 Way gat, lat. 71'. A ship touches every year at both these 
 places; but their exports have hitherto been but small. 
 Measures have since been taken to remove it some leagues 
 farther north, to Jacob's Creek, where many Greenlan- 
 ders reside. There is no missionary in either of them. 
 Concerning the face of the country, still farther north, ail 
 knowledge is confined. William Baffin, who sailed in the 
 year 1616, with Captain Robert Bylot, in search of a pas- 
 sage through Davis's Straits, and who hus given his name 
 to all that part of the sea, between lat. 72" and 78", affirms, 
 that he traded with the Greenlanders as far north as Horn 
 Sound, in lat. 73°. Even in lat^ 74*, he was led to conclude, 
 that the Greenlanders had a summer residence, from the 
 traces of tents visible in many places along the coast. The 
 sea was foimd to contain abundance of seals and sea>uni- 
 corns, and in Thomas Smith's Sound, lat. 78*, whales of 
 the largest size were observed. The Disko Greenlanders 
 say, that the land extends for more than 150 leagues north 
 of their residence, and consequently as far as lat. 70* ; but 
 it is very thinly inhabited, though it abounds in eider-fowl, 
 white bears, and seals ; no one being desirous of living in 
 a place where the winter nights are so long and cold. There 
 is also a scarcity of wood and iron, which the more southerr 
 Greenlanders receive in exchange for the horns of sea-uni- 
 corns. The face of the country presents nothing but naked 
 rocks covered with ice, so that the natives are forced to buy 
 even the grass which they use in their shoes. Their houses 
 (instead of the wooden rafters and sods) are roofed with the 
 horns of the sea unicorn, clay, and seal-skins. 
 
 The land stretches in a north-westerly direction, towards 
 America, and is bordered with numerous clusters of smal' 
 islands. Here and there, upright stones with projecting 
 arras are said to be found, which look like our road-guides. 
 Fear has also coloured them white, and given rise to the fa- 
 ble ot the gigantic Kablunak (European) standing on a 
 mountain, to whom passengers offer up a piece of whalebone. 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 273 
 
 The soiitliern part of Greenland, which is likewise unin- 
 habited by Europeans, i& better known than tihe extreme 
 north. In the autumn of 1723, Mr. I^gede undertook a 
 voyage of discovery thither. Jn the ye^^rst ^749 a,i;i,d 52, a 
 traveller in the pay of the Greerjiland eonips^py, went on se- 
 veral trading expeditions i during the las^ of which ^le spent 
 two sumpiers and one winter in the south. Very little is 
 known concerning the particul^vrs of hia joui-ney, and the ac- 
 count must depend upon the relations of the Greenlanders 
 living in those parts, a n^mbjer of ^y^hom p^y 9i yearly visit 
 to the north. 
 
 The Greenland hills are generally so lofty that the snow 
 ♦n their summits seldom thaws, and what melts, in the day- 
 time is congealed during the night;. They also abound in 
 deep chasms, inta which the sup,-beai»s seldpm or never en- 
 ter. Besides, even in the most precipitous moun toxins there 
 are occasional flats and hollows, in wliich the rain a,nd snow- 
 water collects, and is frozen into iee^ When the snow rolls 
 down in heaps, or after having been, dissolved by the sun, 
 descends in rivulets and torrents upon ^he ice already formed 
 m these hollows, the latter gradually accumulates ipto a solid 
 lump, upon which the action of the sun can make but a 
 very partial impression j and the decrease occasioned by 
 thaw is amply n^ade up by continual aqcessioiis from the 
 snow and rain. 
 
 - These huge lumps of ice sometimes project a considerable 
 way over the edge of the rocks, and do not melt so jjnuch 
 on the surface as underneath, bursting in cracks of various 
 dimensions, out of which the water continually oozes. Be- 
 ing in this way gradually undennined to such a^ degree as 
 to lose their equilibrium, they break loose from the rocks 
 with a tremendous crash, and falling i^i enormous fr tgments 
 over the edge of the precipice, plunge into the depth below, 
 with a noise like thunder, and a commotion; of the water 
 sufficiept to overset a boat at a good distance from the shore. 
 Many a poor Greenlander sailing unconcernedly in his kajak 
 
 6 12 2 N 
 
274 PARRY S SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 along the coast, has lost his life by their full. These 
 masses of ice sometiDies remain fixed in the chasms of the 
 rocks, or frozen fast in the bays, for a numb<jr of years to- 
 gether, andi are continually increased by the snow-water, 
 (which being sometimes mixed with earth and stones,) their 
 prodigious magnitude cannot l>e wondered at. 
 
 Those who have seen the glaciers of Switzerland, or the 
 Tyrol, or even read descriptions of thein, will not be at a 
 loss to conceive how such immense pieces of ice may be 
 hxoscned from the cavities in which they are formed. The 
 chasms, in them are occasioned by the ice thawing under- 
 neath and freezing again during the winter. A large quan- 
 tity of air is consequently enclosed, which when expanded 
 by the heats of the summer, bursts the exterior covering, 
 \Yith a terrible explosion, and a concussion aptly denominated 
 an ice-quake, so vehement that casual passengers are forced 
 to sit down in order not to be thrown off their legs. On 
 such occasions, not only earth, wood, and stones, but even 
 the bodies of men and animals which had been embosomed 
 in the ice, are vomited forth, and large masses roll down 
 into the valleys beneath, frequently covering whole mea- 
 dows. 
 
 Some conception may be formed of the size of these masses 
 from the description of the Rheinwald glacier, which at 
 the same time illustrates the nature of the Ice-blink. This 
 glacier is said to be four miles long and two broad, and be- 
 tween several hundred and a thousand fathoms in height. 
 It consists entirely of masses of pure ice, precipitated from 
 the mountains, and ranged side by side in perpendicu- 
 lar columns. Towards the western extremity issues a tur- 
 bid stream, which soon disappears again under the ice. On 
 the east side, a magnificent cavern opens far into the gla- 
 cier. The neighbouring villagers say, that four miles from 
 its mouth it is still high enough to admit of a man*s stand- 
 ing upright in it. A rivulet of crystal water discharges it- 
 self through this channel. 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 275 
 
 If such Stupendous masses are precipitated from the hills 
 of Switzerland, it is little wonder that the arctic seas of 
 Greenland should be crowded with huge mountains of float- 
 ing ice. The highest summits of the Cordilleras, which 
 lie directly under the Equator, are covered with j)erpetuul 
 ice and snow. It has however been too hastily concluded, 
 that the line of congelation, which in hot climates is thirteen 
 thousand three hundred and eighty feet above the level of the 
 sea, gradually lowers itself towards the poles, till within the 
 polar circle, it coincides with the surface of the earth. Ocu- 
 lar demonstration disproves this. Greenlanders inhabit as 
 far north as 75°, and Europeans have settlements in lat. 
 71". On the highest Greenland mountains, which though 
 not as high as Chimbora9o, have yet an elevation of at least 
 six thousand feet, rain is more frequent than snow during 
 the summer months, and even the snow which descends is 
 quickly melted. 
 
 The soils of this country aiford little scope for description. 
 They are in general extremely scanty and shallow. The 
 country round Godhaab princiipally consists of clay, sand? 
 or turf. The clay is pale blue, and very sandy and sterile. 
 In other tracts a light grey marl prevails, which is intei- 
 mixed with mica, and stands the hre. lb ere is also found 
 a very fine and light micaceous sand, greasy to the touchy 
 and a fine white pearl sand filled w ith black and red crys- 
 tals of garnet, and uncommonly hard. Most of the sand in 
 the country is grey or brown and full of stones : when ma^ 
 nured, it will support veget iiioi . 
 
 Turf is found in all the marshes, mixed with black mould, 
 sand, and gravel, and is not good for firing. The proper 
 turf is an aggregate of vegetable matter, as roots, withered 
 mosses, grass, putrid wood, and also bones ; and is found 
 in low lands, on a bed of sand or on the solid rocki A kind 
 of shell fish are sprinkled amongst its layers, not met witli 
 «ny where else in the country, deposited probably by sonic 
 former inundation of the sea. This turf-grouud probably 
 
276 parry's second toyaoe 
 
 owes its lormation to light earth and grass washed off by tne 
 rain from the adjacent mountains. The best sort grows on 
 the highest ridges of the little desert islands and bare cliffs, 
 where a multitude of birds make their roost in the night and 
 deposit their eggs. Their ordure mixed with earth blown 
 thither by the wind furnishes a soil for moss and grass, which 
 aug-mented by feathers, muscles, and bones, easily discem- 
 able in the mass, form a tenacious covering of turf, tiVo 
 or three fefet thick. This overspreads the summits of the 
 rocks, and has buried a stone beacon erected by the sailors 
 of former times. It m called kupp-turf. Owing to the 
 tough roots it contains, it is difficult to cut through it, but 
 it burns ^vith a bright fiatoej and gives out a considerable 
 heat. 
 
 Grass is found not only on boggy, sandy, or turf land, 
 where it is commonly very poor and diminutive j but also in 
 clefts of rocks filled with earth, and particularly near hu- 
 man habitations, wherfe it grows very luxuriantly. One spe- 
 cies, (AgrOstis arundinacea,) much resembles the reed, but 
 has a more slender stalk, and the Greenlanders twist very 
 neat baskets of it. AnotheV kind, less c6mmon, (Elymus 
 arenarius,) grows near biiildings. On a bottom of sand and 
 gravel, and betwieen stones, with long broad leaves, and a 
 stalk upwards of a yard long. Its spike resembles that of 
 wheat, i\nd is often six inches in lei^gth. The grains are 
 like oats, but owing to the shortness of the summer, they 
 seldoni come to matuHty. The Greenlanders make use of 
 this grass to line their shoes and boots. 
 
 Several trials h^Ve bieen made to gi-ow oats and barfey. 
 They send up its high d blade as in other countries, but sel- 
 dom come into ear, and are in the Very warmest situations 
 prevented from tipening by the night frosts. 
 
 The gardens cannot be very productive, as no seed can 
 be sown till the middle of June. Even then the soil is fro- 
 zen at a little depth below the surface, and in September 
 tlie frost recommences. Every thing must then be taken 
 
TO THE NOJft*rH POLE. 277 
 
 Out of the earth, and laid up to keep, except chives, which 
 will endure the winter. Salad and cabbage will not bear 
 transplanting, and remain very small. Radishes thrive as 
 well as in Europe. The black radishes are small, and tur- 
 nips seldom exceed a pigeon's egg in size, but they may 
 be eaten with greens, and have an excellent taste. This 
 is all that can be reared in the gardens, nor will they pro- 
 duce even this, unless they are screened from the north 
 wind and the spray of the sea water. 
 
 The most plentiful production of this country is moss, 
 tvhich ^rows in great plenty, and of many diflFerent kinds. 
 One species '(the Sphagnum or bog-moss,) is like a thick 
 soft fui* or fleece; the Greenlanders st.ip up the chinks of 
 their houses with it, and use it as Europeans do waste pa- 
 per. Another kind has filaments a span long, which ad- 
 here together like some sorts of fungi. This serves them 
 for tinder, and for wick to their lamps. 
 
 There are several varieties of low under- wood^ where the 
 rein-deer find pasture, and which the natives use for kin- 
 dling fires. The Azalea is a beautiful creepi'ng shrub with a 
 prolusion of red flowers. Several berry-bearing shrubs also 
 occur, as the bilberry and cranberry. The crow or crake-berry, 
 (Empetrum nigrum,) is a low earth-like plant, with small 
 oblong leaves, and flesh-coloured flowers which produce 
 black juicy berries, not ungrateful to the palate. It grows 
 here in abundance. Another plant, the Andromeda, and 
 much resembling this, bears violet bell-shaped flowers 
 without berries. The cloud-berry, (Rubus Chamoemo- 
 rus,) never comes to maturity. The leaf and fruit is much 
 like the mulberry, only the berry is yellow. The stalk is 
 a finger's length, and the flower has four white petals. 
 This plant grows only in northern climates, and its berriei 
 are packed up in small vessels for exportation. They are 
 a great delicacy, and an excellent remedy for the scurvy. 
 
 The Greenlanders eagerly collect all these fruits, parti- 
 cularly the crake-berries, which keep through the wiuter 
 
2?S parry's second voyage 
 
 under the snow. They do not however set any value upou 
 \he juniper-berry, which grows here far larger than in Eu 
 rope, though the bush itself trails on the earth. Besides 
 the shrubs already mentioned, several species of Willows 
 find a nourishment, but are obliged by the cold to creep like 
 broom along the ground. Nor do the birches, which are of 
 a dwarf kind with small indented leaves, mount any higher. 
 But in the fiordes, where warmth is stronger and more last 
 ing, these trees and the elders which overhang the brooks, 
 grow to the height of a man, and have a stem three inches 
 thick. Their crookedness, however, which makes it impos- 
 sible to bind them in faggots for loading, and the nature of 
 the wood itself, being un adapted for combustion, render it, 
 notwithstanding its abundance, of little service for fire- wood, 
 find recourse must be had to turf, drift-wood, or coal im- 
 ported from other countries. 
 
 Very few of the productions of the sea have come under 
 human observation, but why may they not be as numerous 
 as those of the land, and as useful, if our knowledge of them 
 were less limited ? It is long since the observation was 
 first made, that the depths of ocean are as diversified as the 
 upper land ; that there also nature sports in an interchange 
 of hill and valley and wide extended champaign. Islands 
 and cliffs are but the emerging summits of mountains whose 
 bases dive towards the central recesses of the eaith. The 
 higher and steeper the shore of any continent is, the deeper 
 is the sea which washes it. The plummet, which at one time 
 brings up mud and sUme, at another different kinds of sand, 
 is a plain indication that the bottom of the sea is also com- 
 posed of a vaiiety of soils. Is there not then a high proba- 
 bility that those secret depths are the receptacle, not only 
 of grass and sea-weed, such as is sometimes rent by a tem- 
 pest from its native rock and cast upon the strand, but of 
 large trees, like those in which the lines of fishermen are of- 
 ten entangled, and bring up with them broken branches that 
 kave hitherto served only to grace the cabinets of naturalists, 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE, 279 
 
 but are doubtless intended to answer some purpose of higher 
 utility ? Probably they are the food oi' innumerable sea- 
 monsters, which seldom or never make their appearance 
 on i-he surface. The smallest and most tender sea-weeds, 
 which grow near the strand, are filled with a number of 
 animalculae which have eaten through them, and the larger 
 speciesj which are ejected from a considerable depth in the 
 sea, are bitten and bored through in various ways. 
 
 Having given a general account of the manners and cha- 
 racter of the inhabitants of these northern climes, it will b© 
 proj>er to return to the history of the progress of the Fury 
 and Hecla. 
 
 "At daylight on the 1st of September, says Captain Parry, 
 we found ourselves within three or four hundred yards of 
 the rocks on the eastern side of Winter Island, the sound- 
 ings having gradually decreased to eleven fathoms. Had 
 it remained dark an hour longer the Fury would in all pro- 
 bability have gone on shore ; but happily the ice was slack 
 enough to allow us to warp clear of danger soon after day- 
 l)reak. The Hecla had in the mean time been drifted round 
 Cape Fisher, and several miles to the westward toward* 
 Lyon Inlet, in which direction the Fury was also carried in 
 the afternoon, llie wind now setting in easterly, both ships 
 drove with the ice up the inlet, and on the 4th were abreast 
 of Safety Cove, though fortunately on the western side, 
 clear of the dangers of the Bay of Shoals. A light breeze 
 then springing up from the north-west, we again began to 
 niove down the inlet ; and on the evening of the 6th, after 
 making a little progress with the sails in the course of the 
 last two days, were once more met by an easterly breeze off 
 Cape Edwards, the ice being still as closely packed as pos- 
 sible. The young ice also began at times to annoy us, by 
 forming to a considerable thickness at night, so as to ce- 
 ment the larger masses strongly together. The weather 
 now became chilly immediately after sunset, and we consi- 
 dered it rather a premature decrease of temperature in this 
 
^80 parky's second voyage 
 
 latitude, when the thermometer was observed to fall to 24* 
 on the morning" of the 31st of August. A very unusual depo- 
 sition of dew took place every evening about this season, 
 immediately after the sun had set, and was in an hour or 
 two converted into hoar frost. 
 
 " In the afternoon of the 6th I was much pained at be- 
 ing infomied by telegraph from the Hecla, that Mr. Fife, 
 Greenland Master of that ship, had just expired, an event 
 which for some days past there had been but too much rea- 
 son to apprehend ; the scurvy having within the last three 
 weeks continued to increase considerably upon him. It m 
 proper for me, however, both in justice to the medical of- 
 ficers under whose skilful and humane ca^? be was placed, 
 and to the means with which we were iii tms «vay so libe- 
 rally supplied, to state that during a part of that time Mr, 
 Fife had taken so great a dislike to the various anti-scor- 
 butics which were administered to him, that he could seldom 
 be induced to use any of them. The disease, in conse- 
 quence, reduced him to a state of extreme debility, which 
 at length carried him off almost without pain. The Hecla 
 being at the time closely beset, and in a sitviation of great 
 danger among the shoals off Winter Inland, Captain Lyon 
 caused the remains of the deceased to be committed to the 
 sea with all the solemnity which circumstances would per- 
 mit. I cannot close this melancholy notice without express- 
 ing my most sincere regret, to which I may venture to add 
 that of Captain Lyon and the other oflBcers, for the loss of 
 this very deserving individual, whose qualities as a seaman 
 and navigator, had it pleased God to spare his life, would 
 have rendered him an ornament to the naval service, into 
 which he was to have been admitted as a Master on the re- 
 turn of the ships to England. Mr. Crawford, the mate of 
 the Fury, was appointed, for the present, to act as Mas- 
 ter of the Hecla in the roc ^<i of Mr. Fife. 
 
 " In the night of the 6th, the ships which had before 
 Bearly closed each other, were again separated to the dis^ 
 
TO TIIK NORTH POLE. 281 
 
 tance of several miles, though no motion was perceptible in 
 the masses of ice about them. The Hecla was now car- 
 ried towards Winter Island, and the Fury up Lyon Inlet, 
 so that on the 10th we had reached the islands off Five 
 hawser Bay within three-quarters of a mile, where the Hecla 
 was barely visible from the mast head. On the evening of 
 the nth, however, the wind at length began to freshen 
 from the north-west, when the ice almost immediately com- 
 menced driving dowp the inlet at the rate of a mile an hour, 
 carrying the Fury with it and within half a mile of the rocks, 
 the whole way down to Cape Martineau, but keeping her in 
 deep water. In the mean time the Hecla had been swept 
 into much more dangerous situations, passing along the east 
 and south sides of Winter Island ; and after driving nearly 
 up to Five-hawser Bay, being carried near some danger- 
 ous shoals about Cape Edwards, where Captain Lyon ex- 
 pected every other tide that she would take the ground. 
 Indeed for the last ten or twelve days the situation of the 
 Hecla had been one of imminent danger, and every exertion 
 to remove her from it had proved unavailing. From this 
 time, however, the ice continued to drive to the southward, 
 and, by some means or other, the ships once move closed 
 each other. It was now observable, as on a former oc- 
 cas^ion m this neighbourhood, that the ice did not carry the 
 ships in the direction opposite to the wind, but much more 
 towards Southampton Island : so that on the I4th we were 
 once more off Fife Rock, and had, by great exertions in warp- 
 ing, nearly rejoined the Hecla, We now also observed a 
 dark water- sky to the eastward, which assured us that a 
 clear sea could be at no great distance in that direction. 
 On the following day, when the ships had closed each othe? 
 within a mile, we could see the clear water from the mast^ 
 head, and the Hecla could now have been easily extricated. 
 Such hoMFCver are the sudden changes that take place in 
 this precarious navigation, that not long afterwards tiie 
 Fury was quite at liberty to sail out of the ice, while the 
 c 12 ' 2 
 
282 parry's second voyage 
 
 Hecla was now, in her turn, so immoveably set fast, an^l 
 even cemented between several very heavy masses, that no 
 power that 2ould be applied was sufficient to move her an 
 inch. In this situation she remained all the 16th, without 
 our being- Me to afford her any assistance; and the frost 
 being now rather severe at night, we began to consider it 
 not improbable that we might yet be detained for another 
 winter. We were perhaps indeed indebted for our escape 
 to a strong westerly breeze which blew for several hours 
 on the 17th, when, the ice being sufficiently close to tilow 
 our men to walk to the assistance of the Hecla, we suc- 
 ceeded, after seven hours* hard labour, in forcing her into 
 clear water, when all sail was made to the eastward, and 
 our course shaped for the Trinity Islands in a perfectly open 
 sea. 
 
 *^ We thus finally made our escape from the ice after hav- 
 ing been almost immoveably beset in it for twenty -four days 
 out of the last twenty^six, in the course of which time the 
 ships had been taken over no less than one hundred and 
 forty leagues of ground, generally very close to the shore, 
 and always unable to do any thing towards effecting their 
 escape from danger. When it is considered that, to have 
 taken ground in this situation, with strong and high tides 
 keeping the ice in constant motion, must have almost in- 
 volved the certain loss of the ships, and without the possi- 
 bility of one offering assistance to the other, we cannot b it 
 consider this as one of the most providential escapes it has 
 ever been our lot to experience." 
 
 Captain Lyon, speaking of the Esquimaux says, ** the Es- 
 quimaux whom he had seen at Winter Island and Igloolik, 
 comprised nearly all the inhabitants of the north-east coast 
 of America, from the Wager River to our second winter 
 quarters, and as they were all related by blood or maniage, 
 I may speak of them as one tribe. They may more proper- 
 ly be termed a small than even a middle-^ized race. For 
 though in some few instances, and in particular families, the 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. '283 
 
 men are tall and stout, yet the greater portion of the tribe 
 are beneath the standard of what in Europe would be called 
 small men. The tallest I saw was five feet nine inches and 
 three quarters in height; the shortest only four feet ten 
 inches ; snd the highest woman was five feet six inches, while 
 the smallest was four feet eight inches only ; between these, 
 of course, there were intermediate sizes, all, however, in- 
 clining to the lowest scale. Even in the young and strong- 
 men the muscles are not clearly defined, but are smoothly 
 covered, as in the limbs of women ; and though when dresse^l 
 they appear stout well-set people, yet, taking them in a body, 
 their figures when uncovered are rather weak than other 
 wise. There is a remarkable contradiction in the form (»f 
 the most robust, which is, that however prominent and well 
 shaped the chest may be, the neck is small, weak, and of- 
 ten shrivelled. They all stand well on their feet, walking 
 erect and freely, with the toes rather turned inwards, and 
 the legs slightly bowed. Their bodily strength is not so 
 great as might be expected in people who, from their in- 
 fancy, are brought up in hardy living and labour. Of this 
 I had sufficient proof, by matching our people with Esqui- 
 maux of equal sizes to lift weights, and it invariably hap- 
 pened that burthens, which were raised with facility by our 
 people, could scarcely be lifted by the natives. They are 
 active wrestlers among themselves, but can neither run nor 
 jump. Hardy and patient of fatigue, yet, for persons 
 brought up in so severe a climate, they bear the cold with 
 less indiflTerence than I should have expected. Few amongst 
 them are in the slightest degree inclined to corpulency, al- 
 though pot-bellies are universal. The females have a ten- 
 dency, perhaps from their sedentary habits, to grow fat. 
 Their plumpness, however, does not seem wholesome, but 
 more properly may be called bloated, and that only on par- 
 ticular parts of the body. 
 
 " The neck and shouldei-s of the young women are gene- 
 rally in good, though large, proportion ; and the arm and 
 
281 Fabry's second voyage 
 
 wrist are sometimes handsome. The feet of both sexes are 
 small and neat, well joined at the ankle, and free from ble- 
 mishes. The women, from the peculiar form of their boots, 
 of which I shall soon have occasion to speak, have a gait 
 like that of a Muscovy duck, and they ruii unlike any crea- 
 ture I ever saw, with their legs spread out and toes tunieid 
 in, so as to avoid being tripped up by their boots. For some 
 time I was inclined to fancy that the hands c^ these people 
 were small and Well shaped, but lattetly I changed my opi- 
 nion, and it was evident, from repeated observations, that 
 the original form was spoiled by labour. The fingers were 
 short but not taper, and the palm was disproportionately 
 broad. The hands of the natives whom we met in Hudson*s 
 Strait were certainly far better shaped. The skin in both 
 sexes appeared to be quite smooth, being unctuous, 
 and unpleasantly cold to the touch. Contrary to its out- 
 waid show of fineness, it was, even in the females, very 
 tough. Tlie complexion of the Esquimaux, when clearly 
 shown by a previous washing, is not darker than that of a 
 Portuguese, and such parts of the body as are constantly 
 covered do not fall short in fairness to the generality of th^ 
 natives of tlie Mediterranean. A very fine healthy blush 
 tinges the cheek of females and young children, but the men 
 are more inclined to a sallow complexion. The features of 
 the face are divel'sified in an extraordinary manner, yet, lik6 
 the Jews, they have, even when their countenances are 
 shaped like Europeans, an expression altogether peculiar 
 This may be attributed to the remarkable formation of the 
 eye, which is in all alike. The inner corner points down- 
 wards, like that of a Chinese, and the carun cuius lachry^ 
 malis, which in EXiropeans is exposed, is covered by a 
 membrane which passes oveir it vertically. The skin ovei- 
 the upper part of the nose, between the eyes, is frequently, 
 particularly in the women, stretched as tight as the Covering" 
 of a dram. The eyes are small and black, expressive and 
 sparkling when animated, and in most infants and a feW 
 
TO THE NORTH POLK* ^Cy 
 
 young girls really very beautiful. Even in middle aged, or 
 indeed young persons, the comer of the eye is marked by 
 that dreadful figure, the crow's foot ; but in old people the 
 wrinkles are so abundant, as to cover the temples, and to 
 stray down the cheek to a degi'ee we never see in Europe. 
 Another peculiarity, though not so evident in all faces, is the 
 prominence of the cheek bones, which frequently presents so 
 flat a surface, as to give to the women in particular the ap- 
 pearance of having faces as broad as they are long. It is in 
 consequence of this form, that the noses of such as are full 
 faced are literally buried between the projections, and one 
 'of our chief belles was so remarkable in this way, that a 
 t'oler, when placed from cheek to cheek, would not touch 
 the nose ! In some families, where both parents had oval 
 faces, the children all resembled them ; and about a sixth 
 part of the people we saw had high Roman noses, and an ex- 
 pression of countenance, exceptinar always the eyes, which 
 seemed of a different race. Tlie other, and far the largest 
 portion of the tribe, are broad and nearly round visaged. 
 The mouth is generally kept open, with a kind of idiotic ex- 
 pression, so that the teeth of either jaw are generally shown. 
 The lips are rather prominent, and I think, if any difference 
 at all exists, that in the men the lower, and in the women 
 the upper lip is the largest. The mouths are large, yet have 
 a very wholesome healthy appearance. The teeth are strong, 
 and deeply fixed in the gums. They are formed like 
 rounded ivory pegs, and are as flat on the upper end as if 
 filed down. Old people have them worn quite even with 
 the gums, and it is but rarely that any are decayed. The 
 chin is small and peaked, and what we call a double chin is 
 rare, the skin generally collapsing in fat people, instead of 
 forming in a roll. The beards of the men are scanty, but 
 few instances occurring of the chin being entirely covered. 
 The mustaches are more thick. The hair of both sexes is 
 straight, coarse, and of a raven black. In infants it has, 
 for a few years, a shade of brown. On the bodies of adults 
 
1286 PARRIf S SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 there ib but little haii) in fact, some are totally dcstitutft 
 ofit. 
 
 " The costume of the people, continues Capt. Lyon, differs 
 very much from that of the Hudson*s Strait savages, though 
 an equal degree of neatness and ingenuity is displayed in 
 the work of each. The clothes of both sexes are principally 
 composed of fine and well prepared rein-deer pelts ; the skins 
 of bears, seals, wolves, foxes, and marmottes, are also used. 
 The seal skins are seldom employed for any part of the dress, 
 except boots and shoes, as being more capable of resisting 
 water, and of far greater durability than other leather. 
 
 " The general winter dress of the men is an ample outer coat 
 of deer-skin, having no opening in front, and a large hood, 
 which is drawn over the head at pleasure. This hood is in- 
 variably bordered with white fur from the thighs of the deer, 
 and thus presents a lively contrast to the dark face which it 
 encircles. The front, or belly part of the coat, is cut off 
 square with the upper part of the thighs ; but behind it is 
 formed into a broad skirt, rounded at the lower end, which 
 reaches to within a few inches of the ground. The lower 
 edges and tails of these dresses are in some cases bordered 
 with bands of fur of an opposite colour to the body, and it 
 is a favourite ornament to hang a fringe of little strips of 
 skin beneath the border. These embellishments give a very 
 pleasing appearance to the dress. It is customary, in blow- 
 ing weather, to tie a piece of skin or cord tight round the 
 waist of the coat ; but in other cases the dress hangs loose. 
 Within the covering I have just described is another of pre- 
 cisely the same form ; but though destitute of ornaments of 
 leather, it has frequently little strings of beads hanging to 
 it from the shoulders or small of the back. This dress is of 
 thinner skin, and acts as a shirt, the hairy part being placed 
 next the body : it is the in-doors habit. When walking, the 
 tail is tied up by two strings to the back, so that it may not 
 incommode the legs. Besides these two coats, they have 
 also a large cloak, or, in fact, an open deer-skin, with 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 287 
 
 sleeves : this, from its size, is more frequently used as a 
 blanket ; and I but once saw it worn by a man at the ship, 
 although the women throw it over their shoulders to shelter 
 themselves and children while sitting on the sledge. 
 
 " The trowsers, which are tightly tied round the loins, have 
 no waistbands, but depend entirely by the drawing-strings . 
 they are generally of deer-skin, and ornamented in the 
 same manner as the coats. One of the most favourite pat- 
 terns is an arrangement of the skins of deers' legs, so as to 
 form very pretty stripes. As with the jackets, there ar© 
 two pair of these indispensables, reaching no lower than the 
 knee-cap, which is a cause of great distress in cold weather ; 
 as that part is frequently severely frost bitten ; yet with all 
 their experience of this bad contrivance, they will not add 
 an inch to the established length. 
 
 " The boots reach to the bottom of the breeches, which hang 
 loosely over them. In these, as in other parts of the dress, 
 are many varieties of colour, material, and pattern, yet in 
 shape they never vary. The general winter boots are of 
 deer-skin, one Laving the hair next the leg, and the other 
 with the fur outside. A pair of soft slippers of the same 
 kind are worn between the two pair of boots, and outside 
 of all a strong seal- skin shoe is pulled to the height of 
 the ankle, where it is tightly secured by a drawing string. 
 For hunting excursions, or in summer when the coun- 
 ti7 is thawed, one pair of boots only is worn. They aie of 
 seal-skin, and so well sewed and prepared without the 
 hair, that although completely saturated, they allow no wa- 
 ter to pass through them. The soles are generally of the 
 tough hide of the walrus, or of the large seal called Oa- 
 ghioo, so that the feet are well protected in walking over 
 rough ground. Slippers are sometimes worn outside. In 
 both cases the boots are tightly fastened round the instep 
 with a thong of leather. The mittens in common use are of 
 deer-skin, with the hair inside : but in fact every kind of 
 skin is used for them. They are extremely comfortable when 
 
288 parry's second voyage 
 
 dry, but if once wetted and frozen again, in the winter afford 
 as little protection to the hand as a case of ice would do 
 In summer, and in fishing, excellent seaUskin mittens are 
 used, and have the same power of resisting water as tht 
 boots of which I have just spoken. At Igloolik, on our first 
 arrival, we found a few pair of fingered gloves, very neatly 
 made. The dresses I have just described are chiefly used 
 in winter. During the summer it is customary to wear coat, 
 boots, and even breeches, composed of the prepared skins 
 of ducks, with the feathers next the body. These are com- 
 fortable, light, and easily prepared. When we first became 
 acquainted with the different parties of natives, and before 
 they had received presents from us, we found that the few 
 ornaments in their possession were worn by the men. These 
 were some bandeaus which encircled the head, and were 
 composed of various coloured leather, plaited in a Mosaic 
 pattern, and in some cases having human hair woven in 
 them as a contrast to the white skins. From the lower edge 
 foxes' teeth hung suspended, arranged as a fringe across 
 the forehead. In different parts of the hair several wore a 
 musk-ox tooth, a small ivory figure, or the bone of some 
 small animal. 
 
 The clothing of the women is of the same materials as 
 that of the men, but in shape almost every part is different 
 from the male dress. An inner jacket is worn next the skin^ 
 and the fur of the other is outside. This hind flap or tail is 
 of the form before described, but there is also a small flap 
 in front, extending about half way down the thigh. The 
 coats have each an immense hood, which, as well as cover- 
 ing the head, answers the purpose of a child's cradle for 
 two or three years after the birth of an infant. This is called 
 ama-oo-ta, and is the same as the amaut of Crantz. In or- 
 der to keep the burthen of the child from drawing the dress 
 tight across the throat, a contrivance, in a great measure 
 resembling thd slings of a soldier's knapsack, is affixed to 
 the collar or neck part, whence it passes beneath the ama- 
 
TO THK NORTH POLE. 289 
 
 oo-ta, crosses, and being brought under the arms, is secured 
 on each side the breast by a wooden button. The shoulders 
 of the woman's coat have a wide bag-hke space, for which 
 we were long unable to account; but it was at length 
 ascertained to be for the purpose of facilitating the removal 
 of the child from the hood round the breast without taking 
 it out of the jacket. 
 
 ** When a girdle is worn round the waist, it answers the 
 double purpose of comfort and ornament ; being frequently- 
 composed of some valuable trinkets, such as foxes' bones 
 those of the kableeaghioo, or sometimes of the ears of deer, 
 which hang in pairs to the number of twenty or thirty, and 
 are trophies of the skill of the hunter, to whom the wearer 
 is allied. The inexpressibles of the woman are of the same 
 fuvm as those of the men, but they are not ornamented by 
 the same curious arrangement of colours ; the front part is 
 generally of white, and the back of dark fur. The man- 
 ner of securing them at the waist is also the same ; but the 
 drawing- strings are of much greater length, being suf- 
 fered to hang down by one side, and their ends are fre- 
 quently ornamented with some pendant jewel, such as a 
 grinder or two of the musk-ox, a piece of carved ivory, a 
 small ball of wood, or a perforated stone. 
 
 " Children have no kind of clothing, but lie naked in their 
 mother's hoods until two or three years of age, when thksy 
 are stuffed into a little dress, generally of fawn-skin, which 
 has jacket and breeches in one, the back part Tjeing open ; 
 into this they are pushed, when a string or two closes all 
 up again. A cap forms an indispensable part of the equip- 
 m<iiit, and is generally of some fantastical shape : the skin 
 of a lawn's head is a favourite matenal in the composition, 
 and is sometimes seen with the ears perfect ; the nose and 
 holes for the eyes lying along the crown of the wearer's 
 head, which, in consequence, looks like that of an animal. 
 Although by necessity and habit an extremely dirty people, 
 the Esquimaux ai)pear fully aware of the truth of a well- 
 
 « 13 2 P 
 
290 parry's second toyage 
 
 known saying, and practically shown that " a stitch in time** 
 does wonders ; for, however old or worn their dresses may 
 be, it is rarely that ragged clothes are seen. 
 
 Our woollen jackets, shirts, or stockings, were very 
 much esteemed; and though not a tenth part so warm as 
 the skin coverings, yet always had the credit with the Esqui- 
 maux of being much more comiortable than those ; the poor 
 creatures, who wore them generally outside their proper 
 dresses, ascribing all the warmth they felt to the Kablocna 
 cloth. In this way I have seen a thin cotton shirt placed 
 over two coats, while the happy wearer exclaimed with de- 
 light that " it made him quite hot," 
 
 The wind being favourable, the ship ran through Hud- 
 son's Strait, and on the twenty- third they took their final de 
 parture, passing Button's Isles. During their passage 
 across the Atlantic the Aurorae Boi'eales were generally seen 
 every night. On one occasion they were so brilliant as to 
 cast shadows on the deck. 
 
 A solan goose was seen on the seventh of October, and 
 as the ships approached the Orkneys several more of these 
 birds were seen. The appearance of other vessels, indicative 
 of the prospect of soon obtaining intercourse with those from 
 whom they had been now separated for seven and twenty 
 months, excited in all the most cheering feelings. 
 
 The breeze increasing to a fresh gale from the southward 
 in the course of the night, with a heavy sea from the same 
 quarter, rendering it impossible to make any progress in 
 that direction, they put into Lerwick in the Shetland Is- 
 lands, to precure refreshments and await a change of wind, 
 and on the 10th at ten in the morning anchored there, 
 where they were immediately visited by a great number of 
 the inhabitants, ani^ious to greet them on their return to their 
 native country. 
 
 On the first information of their arrival the bells of Ler- 
 wick were set ringing, the inhabitants flocked from every 
 part of the country to express their joy, and the town was 
 fttj^ight illaminated as if eagh individual had a brother or a 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE.' 291 
 
 son among the crew. Oii the l^th, being Sunday, the of- 
 ficers and men of both ships attended divine service on shore, 
 when the worthy minister, the Reverend Mr. Menzies, who 
 was before well known to many, offered up in the most so. 
 lemn and impressive manner a thanksgiving for their safe 
 return. 
 
 On the 13th, a breeze springing up from the northward, 
 they took leave of their kind and hospitable friends, deeply 
 sensible of the cordial and affectionate reception they expe- 
 rienced. On the Kith, being off Whitby, Captain Parry 
 went on shore there, accompanied by Mr. Fisher the astro- 
 nomer, and after deceiving the cordial greetings of a great 
 number of the worthy inhabitants of Whilby, who had as- 
 sembled, set off for London and arrived at the Admiralty on 
 the morning of the 18th> The ships, after touching at the 
 II umber for pilots, arrived in the River Thiimes shortly af- 
 terwards, and were paid off at Dcptford on the 14tfa of No- 
 vember, 1823. 
 
 Notwithstanding the attcm'fjts of this voyage to discover 
 a north-west passage were ineffectual, CapUiiu Parry says 
 that his convictions of the possibility are increased ; but 
 that the opening must be found through Prince Regent's 
 Inlet, and that the passage will be into Bhering's Strait. 
 He says, " While the probability of the existence of the 
 passage has been greatly strengthened by the efforts of our 
 various expeditions by land and soa, as well as by those of 
 the Russians about Icy Cape, the hope of its ultimate ac- 
 complishment has, notwithstanding our late failure, received 
 no inconsiderable encouragement. That the sea is some- 
 times navigable upon the northern shores of America is no 
 longer a matter of speculation or conjecture, but stands 
 recorded upon the authority, and to the honour, of our dis- 
 tinguished countryman Captain Franklin, and his brave 
 companions. A single view of the drawings accompanying 
 his description of their extraordinary canoe-navigation along 
 iiiesp n^^solate shores, must at once convey to the minds oi 
 
292 parry's voyages 
 
 those who are interested in the accomplishment of this long- 
 sought object, a degree of encouragement which the most 
 sanguine could scarcely have experienced before. And al- 
 though there can be no doubt, that the various changes of 
 wind and tide would occasionally block up with ice the shores 
 surveyed by Captain Franklin, yet the open water he ob- 
 served is a proof that the ice has a considerable space to 
 move in : and I cannot, therefore, but entertain a very con- 
 fident hope that if a ship could once be got upon that 
 coast, she might, by patience and perseverance, ultimately 
 complete the desired object. It becomes, therefore, a matter 
 of more interest than ever, to inquire by what route a ship 
 is most likely to reach that part of the coast lately discovered 
 and surveyed by Captain Franklin. 
 
 " It is more than probable, that the obstacles which 
 finally arrested our progress in the Strait are to be mainly 
 attributed to the current we found setting to the eastward, 
 through it; and which coincides with that observed by 
 Captain Franklin and by the Russians to the westward. 
 This stream, in finding its way out through the Strait, 
 would undoubtedly have the effect of keeping the ice close 
 home upon its western mouth, so as to prevent the egress of 
 a ship in that direction ; and I cannot help thinking that, 
 on this account, the navigation of that Strait will seldom if 
 ever be practicable." 
 
 The information which the second voyage of Captain 
 Parry produced, although unsuccessful in accomplishing 
 the great object in pursuit, induced the Government to make 
 further attempts ; and accordingly in the succeeding spring 
 vessels were again fitted out, of which the following are 
 the particulars. 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 208 
 
 CAPTAIN LYON'S VOYAGE. 
 
 THE Fury and Hecla, which had been paid off in No- 
 Tember 1823, were re-commissioned, and to them was added 
 the Griper, to be commanded by Captain Lyon, which 
 last, however, was to take a different route, but to co-ope- 
 rate with Captain PaiTy by land, each taking a course which 
 fom^er lights and experience pointed out as most likely to 
 ensure success. It was intended that Captain Parry should 
 endeavour to make the passage by the Prince Regent's In- 
 let, which runs out of Lancaster Sound to the southward, 
 towards Hudson's Bay, and which was discovered by him 
 in his second voyage ; Captain Lyon was to land in Re- 
 pulse Bay, leaving charge of the Griper to Lieutenant G. 
 Dixon, and to proceed over-land to the Copper-mine River ; 
 whilst Captain Franklin was to explore by land the coast of 
 the Arctic Sea from Mackenzie's River to Icy Cape. 
 
 Every advantage was taken of the experience obtained 
 in the former voyages, and nothing was omitted which could 
 add to the comfort or secure the safety of the crews in their 
 perilous undertaking. Considerable improvements have 
 taken place in the mode of warming the vessels in their seve- 
 ral departments ; and increased strength has been given to 
 .heir bows by an additional casing of timber. Capstans 
 upon a new construction have also been introduced, which 
 promise less risk of injury than those formerly in use. ITie 
 sails and cordage were all new, and of superior workman- 
 ship ; while the stores of every description are abundant, 
 and applicable to every casualty than can occur. Modern 
 publications were added to the libraries, and nothing was 
 
294 parry's voya&es 
 
 neglected which might afford amusement or informatior to 
 the officers. 
 
 A very splendid and hospitable entertainment was given 
 on board the Fury and Hecla, lying off Deptford dock-yard, 
 by Captain Parry, on Tuesday, the 4th of May. The most 
 distinguished of the company present on this occasion were 
 the Duke of Marlborough, Earl Bathurst, Lady Georgiana 
 Bathurst, Lady Emily Bathurst, Lord and Lady Sidmouth, 
 Lord Nugent, Lord Clinton, Sir Everard Honle, the Lord 
 Mayor and family, the Right Hon. W. W. Wynn and fa- 
 mily, Mr. and Mrs. Hobhouse, Sir J. Yorke ; Sir Henry, 
 Lady, and Miss Martin ; Captain J. Franklin, the Hon. 
 Douglas Kinnaird, S. Whitbread, Esq. Sir Alexander and 
 Lady Johnston, Mrs. Admiral Hamilton, Captain and 
 Mrs. Napier, Lieutenant Colonel Ady, Captain and Mrs. 
 Wilbraham, Mr. Alderman Heygate and Lady ; and a long 
 list of others, too numerous to mention. 
 
 Tlie Hecla and Fury dropped down the river from Dept- 
 ford on Saturday the 8th of May, 1824. The crew of the 
 Griper gave three cheers as she passed, which was answered 
 by the Hecla's crew. This incident was interesting, inas- 
 much as, the Griper being to take out the land expedition, 
 the next intercourse of those brave men was expected to be 
 in the regions of desolation and cheerless misery. 
 
 Captain Parry proceeded on his voyage ; and of him w^ 
 have heard nothing positive since, and doubt not but he 
 found winter-quarters. Suddenly, however, and unexpect- 
 edly, on the 10th of November 1824, the Griper, Captain 
 Lyon, ran into Portsmouth-harbour, (without anchoring at 
 Spithead,) with signals of distress flying, having narrowly es- 
 caped destruction in fruitless endeavours to get into Repulse- 
 Bay. The ship appears to have suffered dreadfully. She 
 had reached to within six hours sail of Repulse Bay, when 
 a most tremendous gale came on, hitherto unequalled for 
 severity in those seas, which continued for several days with 
 unabated fury ; and after the crew had suffered in a dread- 
 
TO«THE NOllTH POLE. 1^95 
 
 ful manner, Captain Lyon was obliged to bear up for Eng- 
 land to refit, tbe ship having lost all her anchors and ca 
 bles amongst the ice, besides having been on shore and sus- 
 tained damage in her bottom ; her boats were all stove in 
 We are happy to learn, however, that no livesnvere lost. 
 
 Captain Lyon, the moment he arrived in London, began 
 to prepare a " Brief Narrative of an unsuccessful attempt, 
 &c." and within a very few wrecks it was published. The 
 enterprising individuals whose arduous exertions and in 
 tense sufferings are recorded in tiiis interesting volume, have 
 the most powerful claims on the gratitude of their country- 
 men ; and, though they have been unsuccessful in the prin 
 cipal object of the expedition, the skill and intrepidity of 
 the gallant commander and his crew are not the less deserv- 
 ing of admiration. In a short preface. Captain Lyon de- 
 tails the object of the voyage, by stating the general belief, 
 ** that a western portion of tlie Polar Sea lies at no great 
 distance across Melville Peninsula from Repulse Bay, and 
 -that all the Esquimaux agree in placing it at three days 
 journey. Should this be tbe ease, of which no doubt 
 seems to be entertained, the water in question may be in- 
 ferred to join that sea, which opens out from the western 
 mouth of the Strait of the Fury and Hecla, and the form ol 
 the peninsula may be tolerably imagined from the charts 
 drawn by the natives. A bight may therefore exist as far 
 to the southward as Akkoolee, which is the opposite shore 
 from Repulse Bay ; and it certainly would be an object of 
 ^eat interest to trace the connexion of its shores with Point 
 Turn-again, at which Captain Franklin's operations tenni- 
 Hated.** Under this supposition, Captain Lyon was directed 
 to winter in Repulse Bay ; and in the spring of 1825 to 
 proceed with a small party across Melville Peninsula, anc' 
 endeavour to trace the shores of tlie Polar Sea as far as thf 
 above mentioned Point. 
 
 The Griper, of 180 tons, and a crew of forty-one men, left 
 Deptfoid on the lOth of June, 1824, and joined her pro 
 
296 parry's voyages 
 
 vision-vessel, the Snap, at the Little Nore, Before thex 
 reach Stromness in the Orkneys, where they did not arrive 
 till the 30th, they were nearly shipwrecked. They here 
 took in water and some provisions ; and on the 3d of July 
 sailed from Stromness. But it was soon discovered that the 
 sailing-qualities of the Griper were of the worst description ; 
 and, whilst steering their course across the Atlantic, it wa^^ 
 necessary she should be frequently taken in tow by her pro 
 vision-tender, the Snap. 
 
 On the 1st of August they fell in with their first piece ol 
 ice, a small berg of about 70 feet; and in the evening they 
 first discerned the Labrador coast. On the 3d the stores 
 were removed from the Snap in a fog so dense, " that the 
 boats were directed backwards and forwards, amongst loose 
 ice, by the sound of bells which were continued ringing." 
 ** When our stores were all on board," says Captain Lyon, 
 " we found her narrow decks completely crowded by them. 
 The gangways, forecastle, and abaft the mizen- masts, were 
 filled with casks, hawsers, whale-lines, and stream-cable, 
 while on our straightened lower deck we were obliged to 
 place casks and other stores in every part but that allotted 
 to the ship-company's mess table ; and even my cabin had 
 a quantity of things stowed away in it. The launch was 
 filled high above her gunwales with various articles ; and 
 our chains and waist were lumbered with spars, planks, 
 sledges, wheels, &c. Our draft of water aft was now six- 
 teen feet one inch, and forward fifteen feet ten inches." 
 
 On the 5th they made Cape Resolution, the weather be- 
 ing very severe; and Captain Lyon declares, that even 
 ** up to this period, we had, in fact, experienced more se- 
 vere and unpleasant weather than during our passage out on 
 the last voyage." On the 8th, abreast of Saddleback, and 
 the Middle Savage Islands, and about five miles from the 
 land, the Griper struck twice, and heeled very much, but 
 fortunately did not sustain any damage. The deviation oi 
 the compasses , now became very great, notwithstanding one 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. Z97 
 
 had been fitted with Professor Barlow's plate. Rain had 
 fallen incessantly during the last two days, and on the IGth 
 continued with fog until noon, when the sky cleared, and 
 they made the Upper Savage Island, and, making fast to 
 the largest floe they had yet seen, remained until the fol- 
 lowing noon. " On this floe, as the weather was toleiably 
 fine, we were enabled to stretch lines for tlie purpose of diy- 
 ing clothes, &c. which was now very requisite, as, from the 
 continual wet weather we had expeiienced, the ship and 
 every thing within her had become very damp." 
 
 At day-light on the 12th the first Esquimaux was seen 
 paddling vei7 quietly towards them; and, hauling his ca- 
 noe on the ice, began to barter. From C aptain Lyon's 
 knowledge of the language a conversation directly took 
 place, and in about half an hour sixty moi-e natives made 
 their appearance in eight kajaks and three omiaks, the lat- 
 ter with sails made of the intestines of the walrus. As usual, 
 they began to make free with many articles ; and one fellow 
 succeeded in picking the captain's pocket of his handker- 
 chief, for which he received a box on the ear. The others 
 traded fairly, each woman producing her stores from a 
 neat little skin bag, which was distinguished by our men by 
 the name of a reticule. A new variety of comb was pur- 
 chased, and Captain Lyon procured a mirror composed 
 of a broad plate of black mica, so fitted into a leathern case 
 as to be seen on either side. Some of the natives were ad- 
 mitted on board the Griper to see the poneys and pigs, 
 at which they evinced signs of fear, particularly at the 
 squeaking of the latter, and considered them as two new 
 species of tooktoo, (rein-deer.) Captain Lyon purchased 
 for a knife the sail of a woman's boat. It was nine 
 feet five inches at the head, by only six feet at the foot, 
 and having a deep of thirteen feet. The gut of which it 
 was ccan posed was in four-inch breadths, neatly sewed 
 with thread of the same material ; and the whole sail only 
 weighed three pounds three quarters. Off the North Bluff 
 
 h IS - 2 Q 
 
208 parry's voyagks 
 
 another party was met with, and a familiar intercourse 
 took place. 
 
 On the 14th, their progress was painfully slow, and 
 they passed much closely-packed ice. The temperature 
 was 30" in the shade, and the fog froze thickly on the rig- 
 ging. On the 15th the compasses were extremely sluggish, 
 and the one fitted with the plate showed as much deviation 
 when the ship's head was to the eastward as any other. 
 This caused much anxiety. On the 17th they made Charles 
 Island, and killed two walrusses in shoal water. Before the 
 evening of the 19th they were within ten miles of Cape 
 Wolstenholme, and the following afternoon of Digges Is- 
 land, the sea full of ice. The very dull and bad sailing of 
 ihe Griper continued; on the morning of the 22d, part 
 of the mountains of Southampton Island were seen. 
 
 On the 24th, Captain Lyon, accompanied by Mr. Ken- 
 dal, landed for the purpose of making observations. They 
 «aw some deer. They returned on board in the afternoon ; 
 and the point on which they landed was named after Mr. 
 Leyson, the assistant surgeon ; and the inlet between it and 
 Cape Pembroke named after Mr. Evans, the purser of the 
 Griper. On the 25th they made the high land at Pembroke, 
 the next day passed abreast of it. The compasses had now 
 become quite useless, with the ship's head southerly, and 
 that in particular to which the plate was fitted so power- 
 less, that its north point stood wherever it was placed by 
 the finger ; but, with the head northerly, they all traversed 
 again. This, however, benefited but little ; for Captain 
 Lyon says, *'as our rout lay to the south-west, we were 
 without other guidance than celestial bearings, which could 
 not always be obtained." 
 
 On the 27th they fell in with a native, who, as he ap- 
 proached, was observed " seated on three inflated seal-skins, 
 connected most ingeniously by blown intestines, so that his 
 vessel was extremely buoyant. He was astride upon one 
 skin, while another of a larger size was secured on each side 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE, 299 
 
 «f it, so that he was placed in a kind of hollow. His leg^s, 
 well furnished with seal-skin boots, were immersed nearly 
 to the knees in water, and he rowed with a very slender soot- 
 stained paddle of whalebone, which was secured to his boat 
 by a thong. He exhibited some signs of fear; but, some 
 beads being given to him, he placed them with trembling 
 fingers across a large bunch of hair which protuded from 
 his forehead. Captain Lyon afterwards landed with him, 
 in hopes of obtaining sights for the instruments, and was 
 then joined by six others, who all appeared most miserable, 
 having only a piece of chipped flint for a knife. They af- 
 terwards visited two tents, very small, and full of holes, in 
 which were five women and six children. One of the wo- 
 men, by her appearance, could have been scarcely fifteen 
 years of age ; yet carried her o^Vn child, a stout boy at least 
 twelve months old, at her back. In one tent was a little 
 piece of deal, about three inches in length, planed and 
 painted black on one side ; and, with three bows made of 
 many pieces, was all the wood in their possession. Knives, 
 boarding-pikes, and many other articles, Were distributed 
 among these wretched beings. Each man wiis distin 
 giiished by an immense mass of hair, as large as the head 
 of a child, rolled into a ball, and projecting from the rise 
 of the forehead. Captain I^yon caused one of these to be 
 opened. It consisted of six long strings of his own locks, 
 originally platted, but so matted with dirt, deer's fur, &c. 
 as to resemble a rough hair-tether. These exlraordinnry 
 tresses were bound tightly together at their baee, and mea- 
 sured above four feet. 
 
 On the 29th they again landed to procure Water, and 
 found some Esquimaux graves. In the afternoon it blew a 
 gale, and the ship was put under t;lose reefed top-sailsk. 
 Captain Lyon adds, a strong weather-tide rose so short, 
 And a high sea, that for three hours the ship was unmanage- 
 able, and pitched bowsprit-under every moment. We now 
 founds tliat although with our head off this truly dangerous 
 
30C ' parry's voyages 
 
 shore, we were Hearing it rapidly, and driving boldly down 
 on the shoal. To add, if possible, to this distressing si- 
 tuation, the masts were expected to go every moment, and 
 all hands were kept on deck in readiness. The tiller twice 
 broke adrift, and two men were bruised. In the morning 
 the wind came round and moderated from south-west, with 
 a turbulent short sea. The deviation of the compasses now 
 increased, and, with the lamentable sailing of the Giiper, 
 the strong tides, and bad weather, caused her situation to be 
 most perilous. 
 
 Capt. Lyon says, ^' as there was reason to fear the falling 
 of the tide, which was from 12 to 15 feet on this coast, and 
 in that case the total destruction of the ship, I caused the 
 long-boat to be hoisted out, and, with the four smaller ones, 
 to be stored to a certain extent with arms and provisions. 
 The officers drew lots for their respective boats, and the 
 ship's company were stationed to them. The long-boat 
 having been filled with stores which could not be put below, 
 it became requisite to throw them overboard, as there was 
 no room for thiem on our very small and crowded decks, 
 over which heavy seas were constantly sweeping. In mak- 
 ing these preparations for taking to the boats, it was evident 
 to all, that the long-boat was the only one which had the 
 slightest chance of living under the lee of the ship, should 
 she be wrecked ; but every man di-ew his lot with the great- 
 est composure, although two of our boats would have been 
 swamped the instant they were lowei^ed. Yet such was the 
 noble feeling of those around me, that it was evident, had 
 I ordered the boats in question to be manned, their crews 
 would have entered them without a murmur. 
 
 " In the afternoon, on the weather clearing a little, we 
 discovercd a low beach all around astern of us, on which 
 the surf was running to an awful height ; and it appeared 
 evident that no human power could save us. At three in 
 the afternoon the tide had fallen to twenty- two feet (only six 
 feet more than we drew ;) and the ship, having been lifted 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. SOI 
 
 by a tremendous sea, struck with great violence the whole 
 length of her keel. This we naturally conceived was the 
 forerunner of her total wreck, and we stood in readiness 
 to take to the boats and endeavour to hang under her lee. 
 She continued to strike with sufficient force to have burst 
 any less fortified vessel, at intervals of a few minutes, when- 
 ever an unusually heavy sea passed us ; and, as the water 
 was so shallow, these might almost be called breakers ra- 
 ther than waves, for each in passing burst with great force 
 over our gangways ; and, as every sea topped, our decks 
 were continually, and frequently flooded. All hands took 
 a little refreshment, for some had scarcely been below for 
 twenty-four hours, and I had not been in bed for three nights. 
 Although few or none of us had any idea that we should 
 suiTive the gale, we did not think that our comforts should 
 be entirely neglected ; and an order was therefore given to 
 the men to put on their best and warmest clothing, to ena- 
 ble them to support life as long as possible. Every man 
 therefore, brought his bag ^on deck, and dressed himself; 
 and, in the fine athletic foims which stood before me, I did 
 not see one muscle quiver, nor the slightest sign of alarm. 
 The officers each secured some useful instrument about 
 them for the purpose of observation, although it was ac- 
 knowledged by all, that not the slightest hope remained. At 
 about six in the afternoon the rudder, which had received 
 some very heavy blows, rose, and broke up the after-lock- 
 ers ; and this was the last severe shock which the ship re- 
 ceived. We found by the well that she made no water, and 
 by dark she struck no more. God was merciful to us ; and 
 the tide, almost miraculously, fell no lowei*. At dark heavy 
 rain fell, but was borne with patience ; for it beat down the 
 gale, and brought with it a light air from the northward. 
 At nine in the evening the water had deepened to five fa- 
 thoms. The ship kept off the ground all night, and our 
 exliausted crew obtained some broken rest." 
 
 The next morninsr they weiarhed their anchors, and found 
 
302 
 
 that the beat bower had lost a fluke, and that the others 
 were uninjured. This place, Captain Lyon adds, " in hum- 
 ble gratitude for our delivery, I named the bay of God's 
 Mercy." The latitude of it is 63 • 35' 48" N. longitude 96* 
 32' W. 
 
 There was at this moment no anchor left in the ship. 
 Notwithstanding, it was determined, if possible, to winter 
 about Chesterfield Inlet, or even to the southward of that 
 spot. The persevering efforts of all on board were accord- 
 ingly directed to gain the American shore ; but finding 
 that the ship got into the shallows of Hudson's Bay, they 
 were reluctantly compelled to edge away for Salisbury Is- 
 land, still hoping that a few fine and favourable days would 
 restore to them their lost gi'ound. At length the hope- 
 less continuance of bad weather, the wretched condition 
 of the ship (from her incapacities,) the officers and crew 
 having suffered more hardships than on any previous voy- 
 age, the advanced stage of the season, with numerous other 
 concomitant miseries, compelled Captain Lyon to consent 
 that the ship should be got out of Hudson's Straits (an ex- 
 tent of 800 miles of dangerous navigation ;) which place 
 they had scarcely cleared, when a southerly gale drove them 
 up to Davis's Straits, 150 miles to the southward of Reso- 
 lution Island. Providentially, a change of wind enabled 
 them soon after to proceed on a southern passage homeward ; 
 and the Griper arrive I at Portsmouth in six weeks in the 
 state described. 
 
 The Griper spoke several whalers, all of which had been 
 unsuccessful in the fishery ; no ship had more than two fish, 
 and many none whatever. From the master of the Phcenix 
 whaler, Captain Lyon heard that Captain Parry's expedi- 
 tion had been seen m the middle of August, in lat. 7V beset 
 with ice. On tb«? whole, the season has been more boister- 
 ous, and consequently the sea less clear, than it has been 
 known for a number of years. It was very questionable if 
 Captain Parry would be able to reach Lano-ister Sound. Had 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 303 
 
 the Griper eflfected a wintering either in Repulse Bay or 
 Wager River, or Chesterfield Inlet, Captain Lyon, with a 
 strong party, would have made a land-journey to Point 
 Tumagain, near the Coppermine River, a distance of seven 
 hundred miles, for which expedition they were fully equip- 
 ped. Captain Parry, if he succeeds in passing Lancaster 
 Sound, and getting to the southward do\vn Prince Regent's 
 Inlet (by which Captain Lyon was next year to communi- 
 cate with him,) will send a land expedition, if possible, in 
 the same direction, as well as to Repulse Bay, in the hope 
 of communicating with the Griper. 
 
 Whenever any further information shall be obtained as to 
 the fate of the third voyage of Captain Pairy, it will be nar- 
 rated in this work. 
 
CAPTAIN FRANKLIN'S JOURNEY 
 
 TO 
 
 THE POLAR SEA. 
 
 The Government having determined upon sending- an ex- 
 pedition from the shores of Hudson's Bay by land, to ex- 
 plore the northern coast of America, from the mouth of the 
 Coppermine River to the eastward, Captain Franklin was 
 appointed to this service by Earl Bathurst, on the recom- 
 mendation of the Lord's Commissioners of the Admiralty ; 
 who, at the same time, nominated Doctar John Richard- 
 son, a surgeon in the Royal Navy, Mr. George Back, and 
 Mr. Robert Hood, two Admiralty Midshipmen, to be joined 
 with him in the enterprize. The main object of the Expe- 
 dition was that of determining the latitudes and longitudes 
 of the northern coast of North America, and the trending of 
 that coast from the mouth of the Coppermine River to the 
 eastern extremity of that continent. Circumstances were 
 to guide him whether to proceed at once directly to the 
 northward till he arrived at the sea-coast, and thence west- 
 erly towards the Coppermine River ; or advance, in the first 
 instance, by the usual route to the mouth of the Copper- 
 mine River, and from thence easterly till he should arrive 
 at the eastern extremity of that continent. In the adoption 
 of either of these plans, he was to be guided by the advice 
 bf the Hudson's Bay Company, who would be instructed 
 by their employers to co-operate cordially in the prosecution 
 of the objects of the expedition, and who would provide him 
 
^AIF^A2I2^ 1FmJs^lK2i2^. 
 
 # 
 
ws^ 
 
 #, 
 
 :m 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 305 
 
 with the necessary escort of Indians to act as guides, inter- 
 preters, game-killers, &c. and also with such articles of 
 clothing, ammunition, snow-shoes, presents, &c. as should 
 be deemed expedient to take. Another principal object of 
 the expedition v/as to amend the very defective geography 
 of the northern part of North America, to ascertain cor- 
 rectly the latitude and longitude of every remarkable spot 
 upon the route, and of all the bays, harbours, rivers, head- 
 lands, &c. that might occur along the northern shores of 
 North America. In proceeding along the coast, he was to 
 erect conspicuous marks at places where ships might enter, 
 •or to which a boat could be sent ; and to deposit infonnation 
 as to the nature of the coast for the use of Lieutenant Parry. 
 In the journal of his route, he was to register the tempera- 
 ture of the air at least three limes in every twenty-four hours ; 
 together with the state of the wind and weather, and any 
 other meteorological phenomena. He was to notice whether 
 any, and what kind or degree of, influence the Aurora Bo- 
 realis might appear to exert on the magnetic needle ; and 
 to notice whether that phenomenon were attended with any 
 noise ; and to make any other observations that might be 
 likely to tend to the further developement of its cause, and 
 the laws by which it is governed. 
 
 Mr. Back and Mr. Hood were to assist in all the obser- 
 vations above-mentioned, and to make drawings of the 
 land, of the natives, and of the various objects of natural 
 history ; and, particularly, of such as Dr. Richardson, who, 
 to his professional duties, was to add that of naturalist, 
 might consider to be most curious and interesting. 
 
 He was instructed on aniving at, or near, the mouth of 
 the Coppermine River, to make every inquiry as to the si- 
 tuation of the spot whence native copper had been brought 
 down by the Indians to the Hudson's Bay establishment, 
 and to visit and explore the place in question ; in order that 
 Dr. Richardson might be enabled to make such observations 
 
 c 13 2R 
 
S6g 
 
 as might be useful in a commercial point of view, or inter- 
 esting to the science of mineralogy. 
 
 Joseph Berens, Esq. the Governor of the Hudson's Bay 
 Company, and the gentlemen of the commitee, afforded all 
 Kinds of assistttnce and information, previous to his leaving 
 England ; and they sent orders to their agents and servants 
 in North America, containing the fullest directions to pYo- 
 nibte, by every means, the progress of the Expedition. The 
 gentlemen of the North-west Company, both in England and 
 America, also gave much useful information, and sent let- 
 ters of recommendation to the partners and agents of that 
 Company, resident on the line of route. 
 
 The late Sir Alexander Mackenzie, who visited the coast 
 they were to explore, afforded in the most open and kind 
 manner, much valuable information and advice. 
 
 Tlie provisions, instruments, atid articles furnished by di- 
 rection of the Lord's Commissioners of the Admiralty, weve 
 embarked on board the Hudson's Bay Company's ship Prince 
 of Wales, appointed by the colnmittee to convey the exjjedi- 
 tion to York Factory, their principal establishment in Hud- 
 son's Bay. To Dr. Richardson, in particular, the exclu- 
 sive merit is due of whatever collections and observations 
 have been made in the department of natural history. The 
 charts and drawings were made by Lieutenant Back and 
 the late Lieutenant Hood. Both these gentlemen cheer- 
 fully and ably assisted in making the observations and hi 
 the daily conduct of the expedition. Great praise is due to 
 the fidelity, exertion and uniform good conduct in the most 
 trying situations, of John Hepburn, an English seaman, 
 and the only attendant, to whom in the latter part of the 
 journey they owed, under Divine Providence, the preserva- 
 tion of the lives of some of the party. 
 
 All things having been previously arranged, the party em- 
 barked on the 23d of May 1819, on board the Prince of Wales, 
 a ship belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company. Tiie wind 
 
TO THE POLAR SKA. 3P7 
 
 not being favourable they did not reach YarrnQUth Roads 
 until the 30lh, and expecting^ to remain there for a ci^apgje 
 of wind, several officers and passengers >yent on shore* 
 They had pot however been long landed before the wind 
 changed to the south-east, and the ship fired signal guns 
 for ail to be on board. Mr. Back having gone a few miles 
 distance on business, the sjiip jailed without him, but Cap- 
 tain Fmnklin left a letter dire^Jting him to proceed by poach 
 to Stromness, at which place he arrived nearly at the same 
 period as the ship, having travelled nine days almost with- 
 out taking rest. 
 
 At Stromness Captain Franklin endeavoured to engage 
 some seamen adapted to the sei-vice on which he was pro- 
 ceeding. On the 14th of June several persons met him by 
 appointment; but they were so impressed with apprehen- 
 sion that great danger would attend the service, or that they 
 would be taken further than the engagement required, that 
 only four men offered themselves, llie bowmen and steev- 
 mcn were to receive forty pounds a year, and the middlemep 
 tliiity-five pounds. Captam Franklin says, *'They stipu- 
 lated to be sent back to the Orkney Islands, free of expense, 
 and to receive their pay until the time of ^.rrival. Only 
 these few men could be procured, although our requisition 
 had been sent to almost every island, even as far as the 
 northernmost point of Ronaldsha. I was much amused witli 
 the extreme caution these men used before they would sign 
 the agreement; they minutely scanned all our intentions, 
 weighed every circumstance, looked narrowly into the plan 
 of our route, and still more circumspectly to the prospect 
 of return. Such caution on the part of the northern marin- 
 ers form a singular contrast with the ready and thoughtless 
 manner in which an English seaman enters upon any enter- 
 prise, however hazardous, without inquiring, or desiring 
 to know where he is going, or what he is going about. 
 
 The Brig Harmony, belonging to the Moravian Mis- 
 sionary So.'iiety, and bound to their settlement at Najji, on 
 
808 franklin's jauRNtiy 
 
 the coast of Labrador, was lying at anchor. With the view 
 of collecting some Esquimaux words and sentences, or 
 gaining any information respecting the manners and habits 
 of that people, Doctor Richardson and myself paid her a 
 visit. We found the passengers, who were going out as 
 Missionaries, extremely disposed to communicate ; but as 
 they only spoke the German and Esquimaux languages, 
 of both which we were ignorant, our conversation was 
 necessarily much confined : by the aid, however, of an Es 
 quimaux and German dictionary, some few words weie col 
 lected, which we considered might be useful. There were 
 on board a veiy interesting girl, and a young man, who 
 were natives of Disko, in Old Greenland ; both of them had 
 fair complexions, rather handsome features, and a lively 
 manner ; the former was going to be married to a resident 
 Missionary, and the latter to officiate in that character. The 
 commander of the vessel gave me a translation of the Gos- 
 pel of St. John in the Esquimaux language, printed by 
 the Moravian Society in London." 
 
 On the 16th the Prince of Wales made the preparatory 
 signal lor sea. At three in the afternoon the ships weighed, 
 an hour too early for the tide ; as soon as this served they 
 entered into the passage between Hoy and Pomona, and had 
 to beat through against a very heavy swell, which the meet- 
 ing of a weather tide and a strong breeze had occasioned. 
 Some dangerous rocks lie near the Pomona shore, and on 
 this side also the tide appeared to run with the greatest 
 strength. On clearing the outward pro;jecting jtoints of 
 Hoy and Pomona, they entered at once into the Atlantic, 
 and commenced their voyage to Hudson's Bay, having the 
 Eddystone, Wear, and Missionary brig, Harmony, in com- 
 pany. 
 
 Being now fairly launched into the Atlantic, Captain 
 Franklin issued a general memorandum for the gnidance of 
 the officers during the prosecution of the service on which they 
 were engaged, and communicated to them the several points 
 
TO THK POLAR SEA. 309 
 
 of information that were expected from them by their in- 
 structions. He also furnished them with copies of the signals 
 which had been agreed upon between Lieutenant Parry and 
 himself, to be used in the event of reaching the northern 
 coast of America, and falling in with each other. At the 
 end of the month of June, the progress was found to have 
 been extremely slow, owing to a determined N. W. wind 
 and much sea. Numerous birds hovered round the ship ; 
 principally fulmars and shearwaters, and they not unfre- 
 quently saw shoals of grampusses sporting about, which 
 the Greenland seaman term finners from their large dorsal 
 fin. Some porpoises occasionally appeared, and whenever 
 ihey did, the crew were sanguine in their expectation of 
 having a speedy change in the wind, which had been so 
 vexatiously contrary, but they were disappointed in every 
 instance. 
 
 By the 25th of July they had opened the entrance of Da- 
 vis's Straits, and in the afternoon spoke the Andrew Marvell, 
 bound to England with a cargo of fourteen fish. The mas- 
 ter said that the ice had been heavier this season in Davis's 
 Straits than he had ever recollected, and that it lay particu- 
 larly close to the westward, being connected with the shore 
 to the northward of Resolution Island, and extending from 
 thence within a short distance of the Greenland coast ; that 
 whales had been abundant, but the ice so extremely cross, 
 that few could be killed. His ship, as well as several others, 
 had suffered material injury, and two vessels had been en- 
 tirely crushed between vast masses of ice in latitude 74" 40' 
 N. but the crews were saved. No intelligence could be 
 obtained respecting Lieutenant Parry, and the ships under 
 his command ; but blowing strong from the northward for 
 some time, which would, probably, clear Baffin's Bay of ce, 
 they were disposed to hope favourably of his progress. 
 
 On the 4th of August, in latitude 59* 58' N. longitude 
 59* 53' W. they first fell in with large icebergs; an in 
 the evening were encompassed by several of considerable 
 
310 franklin's jcurnky 
 
 magnitude, which oblig-ed them to tack the shi^), in order 
 to prevent getting entangled amongst them. The esti- 
 mated distance from the nearest part of the Labrador coast 
 was then 88 miles; here they tried for soundings, without 
 gaining the bottom. 
 
 On the 5th of August, a party of the officers endeavoured 
 to get on one of the largest icebergs, but ineffectually, 
 owing to the steepness and smoothness of its sides, and the 
 swell produced by its undulating motion. This was one of 
 the largest they saw, and Mr. Hood ascertained its height 
 to be 149 feet ; but these masses of ice are frequently mag- 
 nified to an immense size, through the illusive medium of 
 a hazy atmosphere, and on this account their dimensions 
 have often been exaggerated by voyageis. 
 
 In the morning of the 7th, the Island of Resolution was 
 ndistinctly seen through the haze, but was soon afterwards 
 entirely hidden in a very dense fog. The favourable 
 breeze subsided into a perfect calm, and left the ship sur- 
 rounded by loose ice. Two attempts were ineffectually 
 made to gain soundings, and the extreme density of the fog 
 precluded any other means of ascertaining the direction in 
 which the ship was driving until half-past twelve, when 
 they had the alarming view of a barren rugged shore within 
 a few yards, towering over the mast-heads. Almost in- 
 stantly afterwards the ship struck violently on a point of 
 rock, projecting from the island; and the ship's side was 
 brought so near to the shore, that poles were prepared to 
 push her off. This blow displaced the rudder, and raised 
 it several inches, but it fortunately had been previously 
 confined by tackles. A gentle swell freed the ship from 
 this perilous situation, but the current hurried the ship 
 along in contact with the rocky shore, and the prospect was 
 most alarming. On the outward bow was perceived a rug- 
 ged and precipitous cliff, whose summit was hid in the fog» 
 and the vessel's head \vas pointed towards the bottom of -a 
 small bay, into which they were rapidly driving. There now 
 
TO THE POLAR SKA, 611 
 
 seemed tx) be no probability of escaping^ shipwreck, being 
 without wind, and having the rudder in its present useless 
 state ; the only assistance was that of a boat employed in 
 towing, which had been placed in the water between the 
 ship and the shore, at the imminent risk of its being crushed, 
 'llie ship again struck in passing over a ledge of rocks, and 
 happily the blow replaced the rudder, which enabled them 
 to take advantage of a light breeze, and to direct the ship's 
 head without the projecting cliff. JBut the breeze was only 
 momentary, and th^ ship was a third time driven on shore 
 on the rocky termination of the cliff. Here they remained 
 stationary for sbttie seconds, and with little prospect of 
 being removed from thiiJ perilous situation, but Wel'e once 
 more extricated by the swell from this ledge also, and car- 
 ried still farther along the shore. The coast became ttow 
 more rugged, and the tiew of it was terminated by another 
 projecting point on the starboard bow. Happily, before 
 they had reached it, a light breeze enabled them to turn the 
 ship's head to seaward, and she drew off the shore. They 
 had made but little progress, however, when she was vio- 
 lently forced by the current against a large iceberg lying 
 aground. 
 
 The prospect was now more alaiming than at any preced- 
 ing period ; and it would be difficult to pouitray the anxiety 
 and dismay depicted on the countenances of the female pas- 
 sengers and children, who wei*e imshing on deck in spite of 
 the endeavours of the officers to keep them below, out of the 
 danger which was apprehended if the masts should be car- 
 ried away. After the first concussion, the ship was driven 
 along the steep and rugged side of this iceberg With such 
 amazing rapidity, that the destruction of the masts seemed 
 inevitable, and every one expected to be forced on the rocks 
 in the most disabled state ; but providentially, they escaped 
 .his perilous result, which must have been decisive. 
 
 Tlie dense fog now cleared away for a short time, and 
 ihev discovered the Eddystone close to some rocks, baring • 
 
S12 franklin's journey 
 
 three boats employed in towing ; but the Wear was not vi- 
 sible. 
 
 The ship receiving water very fast ; the pumps were in- 
 stantly manned and kept in continual use, and signals of 
 distress-were made to the Eddystone, whose commander 
 promptly came on board, and then ordered to our assistance 
 his carpenter and all the men he could spare, together with 
 the carpenter and boat's crew of the Wear, who had gone 
 on board the Eddystone in the morning, and were prevented 
 from returning to their own vessel by the fog. As the wind 
 was increasing, and the sky appeared very unsettled, it 
 was determined the Eddystone should take the ship in tow, 
 that the undivided attention of the passengers and crew 
 might be directed to pumping, and clearing the holds to ex- 
 amine whether there was a possibility of stopping the leak. 
 They soon found the principal injuiy had been received from 
 a blow near the stern-post, and, after cutting away part of 
 the ceiling, the cai*penters endeavoured to stop the rushing 
 in of the water, by forcing oakum between the timbers ; but 
 this had not the desired effect, and the leak, in spite of all 
 efforts at the pumps, increased so much, that parties of the 
 officers and passengers were stationed to bail out the water 
 in buckets at differents parts of the hold. A heavy gale came 
 on, blowing from the land, as the night advanced ; the sails 
 were split, the ship was encompassed by heavy ice, and, in 
 forcing through a closely-connected stream, the tow-rope 
 broke, and they were obliged to take a portion of the sea- 
 men from the pumps, and appoint them to the management 
 of the ship. 
 
 On the 9th upwards of five feet water was found in the 
 well. Renewed exertions were now put forth by every per- 
 son, and before eight in the morning the water was so much 
 reduced as to enable the carpenters to get at other defective 
 places ; but the remedies they could apply were insufficient 
 to repress the water from rushing in, and all their labours 
 could bnt just keep the ship in the same state throusfhout the 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 318 
 
 day, until six in the afternoon ; -when the strength of every 
 one began to fail, the expedient of thrusting in felt, as well as 
 oakum, was resorted to, and a plank nailed over all. After 
 this operation a perceptible diminution in the water was 
 made, and being encouraged by the change, the utmost ex- 
 ertion was used in bailing and pumping ; and before night, 
 the leak was so overpowered that the pumps were only re- 
 quired to be used at intervals of ten minutes. A sail, co- 
 vered with every substance that could be carried into the 
 leaks by the pressure of the water, was drawn under the 
 quarter of the ship, and secured by ropes on each side. 
 
 As a matter of precaution in the event of having to aban- 
 don the ship, which was for some time doubtful, the elderly 
 women and children were removed to the Eddystone when 
 the wind was moderate, but the young women remained to 
 assist at the pumps, and their services were highly valuable, 
 both for their personal labour, and for the encouragement 
 their example and perseverance gave to the men. 
 
 At day-light, every eye was anxiously cast around the 
 horizon in search of the Wear, but in vain ; and the recol- 
 lection of their own recent peril caused considerable appre- 
 hensions for her safety- Every glass was directed along 
 the shore to discover any trace of their absent consort. Guns 
 were frequently fired to apprize any who might be near of 
 their approach ; but no one appeared, and no signal was 
 returned. At eight in the evening they were abreast of the 
 island called Cape Resolution, which is a low point, but in- 
 'dicated at a distance by a lofty round backed hill that rises 
 above it. They entered Hudson's Straits soon afterwards. 
 
 They arrived abreast of the Upper Savage Island early 
 in the morning of the 12th of August, and as the breeze 
 was moderate, the ship was steered as near to the shore as 
 the wind would permit, to give the Esquimaux inhabitants 
 an opportunity of coming off to barter, which they soon era- 
 braced. 
 
 Their shouts at a distance intimated their approach some 
 P. V. 14. S s 
 
814 franklin's journey 
 
 time before they described the canoes paddling towards 
 them ; the headmost of them reached us at eleven ; these 
 were quickly followed by others, and before noon about forty 
 canoes, each holding one man, were assembled round the two 
 ships. In the afternoon, when we approached nearer to the 
 shore, five or six larger ones, containing the women and. 
 ciiildren, <;arae up. 
 
 The Esquimaux immediately evinced their desire to bar- 
 ter, and displayed no small cunning in making their bar- 
 gains^ taking care not to exhibit too many articles at first. 
 Their principal commodities were, oil, sea-horse teeth, 
 whalebone, seal-skin dresses, caps and boots, deer-skins 
 and horns, and models of their canoes ; and they received 
 in exchange small saws, knives, nails, tin-kettles, and nee- 
 dles. It was pleasing to behold the exultation, and to hear 
 the shouts of the whole party, when an acquisition was made 
 by any one ; and not a little ludicrous to behold t!»e eager- 
 ness with which the fortunate person licked each article with 
 his tongue, on receiving it, as a finish to the bargain, and 
 an act of appropriation. They in no instance omitted this 
 strange practice, however small the article ; the needles 
 even passed individually through the ceremony. The wo- 
 men brought imitations of men, women, animals, and birds, 
 carved with labour and ingenuity out of sea-horse teeth. The 
 dresses and the figures of the animals, were not badly exe- 
 cuted, but.there was no attempt at the delineation of tlie 
 countenances ; and most of the figures were without eyes, 
 ears and fingers, the execution of which would, perhaps, 
 have required more delicate instruments than they possess. 
 The men set most value on saws ; kuttee-swa-bak, the name 
 by which they distinguish them, was a constant cry. Knives 
 were held next in estimation. An old sword was bartered 
 from the Eddystone, and I shall long remember the uni- 
 versal burst of joy on the happy man^s receiving it. It was 
 delightful to witness the general interest excited by indivi- 
 dual acquisitions. There was no desire shewn by any one 
 
TO THE POLAR SI- A. 315 
 
 to over-reach his neighbour, or to press towards any part 
 of the sliip where a bars^ain was making^^ until the person in 
 possession of the place had completed his exchange and re- 
 moved, and if any article happened to he demanded from 
 the outer caaoesj the men nearest assisted willingly in pass- 
 ing the thing across. Supposing the party ta belong to one 
 tribe, the total number of the tribe must exceed tw» hun- 
 dred persons, as there were, probably, one hundred and 
 fifty around the ships, and few of these were elderly persons, 
 or male childreu. 
 
 Their faces were broad and ffat, the eyes smalL The 
 men were in general stout. Some of the younifer women 
 and the children had rather pleasing countenances j but the 
 differencebetween these and the more aged of that sex, bore 
 strong testimony to the effects which a few years produce in 
 this ungeuial climate. Most of the party had sore eyes, all 
 of them appeared of a plethoric habit of body ; several were 
 observed bleeding at the nose during their stay near the 
 ship. The men's dresses consisted of a jacket of seal-skin, 
 the trowsers of bear-skin, and several had caps of the white 
 fox-skin. The female dresses were made af the same ma- 
 terials, but differently shaped, having a hood in which the 
 infar.ts were carried. Their manner was very lively and 
 agreeable, and they were fond of mimicking our speech 
 and gestures ; but nothing afforded them greater amuse, 
 meut than when we attempted to retaliate by pronouncing 
 any of their words. 
 
 The canoes were of seal-skin, and similar in every re- 
 spect to those of the Esquimaux in Greenland ; they were 
 generally new and very complete in their appointments. 
 Those appropriated to the women are of ruder construction, 
 and only calculated for fine weather ; they are, however, 
 useful vessels, being capable of containing twenty persons 
 with their luggage. An elderly man officiates as steers- 
 man, and the women paddle, but they have also a mast 
 whicn carries a sail, made of dressed whale-gut. When 
 
 S s 2 
 
316 franklin's journey 
 
 the women had disposed of all their articles of trade they 
 resorted to entreaty, and put in practice many enticing 
 gestures to procure presents of a variety of heads, needles, 
 and other articles in great demand among females. 
 
 On the evening of the 19th, they passed Digge's Islands, 
 the termination of Hudson's Strait. Here the Eddystone 
 parted company, being bound to Moose Factory at the bot- 
 tom of the Bay. 
 
 On the 30th the Prince of Wales arrived off York Plats, 
 and they had the gratifying sight of the ship Wear, which 
 they feared was lost, riding at anchor. The governor of 
 the place, Mr. Williams, came on board, accompanied by 
 the commander of the Wear, and the latter gentleman, 
 (from the circumstance of himself and his crew having been 
 supposed to be lost) was received with the most hearty wel- 
 come. It appeared that one of the largest masses of ice had 
 providentially drifted between the vessel's side and the rocks 
 just at the time he expected to strike, to which he secured 
 it until a breeze sprung up and enabled him to pursue his 
 voyage. 
 
 The governor said that he had received information from 
 the Committee of the Hudson's Bay Company of the equip- 
 ment of the Expedition, and that the officers would come 
 out in their first ship. In the evening Dr. Richardson, Mr. 
 Hood, and Captain Franklin, accompanied the governor to 
 York Factory ; it is distant from the Flats seven miles. 
 Early next morning the honour of a salute was conferred 
 on the members of the Expedition. 
 
 Captain Franklin informed the governor that he was di- 
 rected to consult with him and the senior officers of the Com- 
 pany as to the best mode of proceeding on their journey, and 
 in reply was informed that instructions had been received 
 to render all possible assistance to the Expedition. He also 
 received the most friendly and full assurance from Mr. Shaw 
 and other gentlemen belonging to the North-west Company, 
 of their cordial disposition to promote the interests of the ex- 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 317 
 
 pedition ; and as at tliis period a violent commercial opposi- 
 tion existed between the Hudson's Bay and the North-west 
 Company, this assurance was highly gratifying. From 
 these gentlemen they obtained much information respecting 
 the interior of the country. Under a consideration of the 
 opposite interests of the two companies, Captain Franklin 
 issued an order strictly prohibiting all interference in their 
 quarrels. This order he made known to the principals of 
 the different Companies, and they expressed their satisfac- 
 tion thereat. The opinion of the gentlemen connected with 
 both companies was that the party should proceed by Cum- 
 berland House, and through the chain of posts to tlie Great 
 Slave Lake, and Captain Franklin determined to pursue 
 the route they recommended. 
 
 York Factory, the principal depot of the Hudson's Bay 
 Company, stands on the west Bank of Hayes' River, about 
 five miles above its mouth, on the marshy peninsula which 
 separates the Hayes and Nelson rivers. The surrounding 
 country is flat and swampy , and covered with willows, pop- 
 lars, larch, spruce, and birch -trees ; but the requisition 
 for fuel has expended all the wood in the vicinity, and the 
 residents have now to send for it to a considerable distance. 
 
 The principal buildings are placed in the form of a square, 
 having an octagonal court in the centre ; they are two stories 
 in height and have flat roofs covered with lead. The of- 
 ficers dwell in one portion of this square, and in the other 
 parts the articles of merchandise are kept : the workshops, 
 storehouses for the furs, and the servants' houses are ranged 
 on the out side of the square, and the whole is surrounded 
 by a stockade twenty feet high. A platform is laid from 
 the house to the pier on the bank for the convenience of 
 transporting the stores and furs, which is the only prome- 
 nade the residents have on this marshy spot during the sum- 
 mer season. The few Indians who frequent this establisli- 
 nient belong to the Swampy Crees. There were several 
 of theui encamped on the outside of the stockade. Their 
 
f?l8 franklin's JOURNRV 
 
 tents were rudely constructed by tyins»; twenty or thirty 
 poles together at the top, and spreading them out at the 
 base so as to form a cone ; these were covered with dressed 
 moose-skin. The fire is placed in the centre, and a hole 
 is left for the escape of the smoke. The inmates had a 
 squalid look, and were sutfering under the combined af- 
 flictions of hooping cough and measles ; but even these mi- 
 series did not keep them from an excessive indulgence in 
 spirits, which they unhappily can procure from the traders 
 with too much facility. 
 
 Their sickness at this time was particularly felt oy the 
 traders, this being the season of the year when the exertion 
 of every hunter is required to procure their winter's stock 
 of geese, which resort in immense flocks to the extensive 
 flats in this neighbourhood. These birds, during the sum- 
 mer, retire far to the north, and breed in security ; but 
 when the approach of winter compels them to seek a mure 
 southern climate, they generally alight on the marshes of 
 this bay, and fatten there for three weeks or a month, be- 
 fore they take their final departure from the country. They 
 also make a short halt at the same spots in their progress 
 northwards in the spring. Their arrival is welcomed with 
 joy, and the goose hunt is one of the most plentiful seasons 
 of the year. The ducks IVequent the swamps all the summer. 
 
 All things having been prepared, and one of the largest 
 Company's boats having been procured, the party prepared 
 early in the month of September for their departure. The 
 various stores provided however were found too bulky to 
 be stowed in the boat, so that a part of the provisions 
 were necessarily lel't behind. All of them excepting the ba- 
 con, which was of too great a bulk, the governor promised 
 to forward in the course of the next season, and the party 
 embarked under a salute of eight guns and three cheers from 
 the fort, thus commencing their voyage into the interior of 
 America. 
 
 The wind and tide failing at the distance of six miles above 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 319 
 
 the Factory, and the current being too rapid for using oars 
 to advantage, the crew had to commence tracking, or dragg - 
 ing the boat by a line, to which they were harnessed. This 
 operation is extremely laborious in these rivers. The men 
 were obliged to walk along the steep declivity of a high bank, 
 rendered at this season soft and slippery by frequent rains, 
 and their progress was often further impeded by fallen trees, 
 which, having slipped from the verge of the thick wood 
 above, hung on the face of the bank in a great variety of di- 
 rections. Notwithstanding these obstacles, they advanced 
 at the rate of two mileH an hour, one half of the crew reliev- 
 ing the other at intervals of an hour and a half. The breadth 
 of the stream, some distance above the Factory, is about 
 half a mile, and its depth, during this day's voyage, varied 
 from three to nine feet. At sunset they landed, and pitched 
 the tent for the night, having made a progress of twelve 
 miles. A large fire was quickly kindled, supper speedily 
 prepared, and they then retired in their buffalo robes, and 
 enjoyed a night of sound repose. 
 
 On the 14th Mr. M'Donald, on his way to Red River, iu 
 a small canoe, manned by two Indians, overtook the party. 
 The Indians had on the preceding day, with no other arras 
 than a hatchet, killed two deer, a hawk, a curlew, and a 
 sturgeon. Three of the Company's boats joined in the course 
 of the morning, and they pursued their journey up Hill Ri- 
 ver in company. Captain Franklin's boat being overladen, 
 they were unable to keep pace with the others ; and there- 
 fore proposed to the gentlemen iu charge of the Company V 
 boats, that they should relieve them of part of their cargo. 
 This they declined doing, under the plea of not having re- 
 ceived orders to that effect, notwithstanding the circular 
 furnished by Governor Williams, strictly enjoining all the 
 Company's servants to afford every assistance. In conse- 
 quence of this refusal they dropt behind, and being de- 
 prived of the advantage of observing the route followed by 
 the guide, who was in the foremost boat, they frequently 
 
320 
 
 took a wrong channel. The tow-line broke twice, and the 
 boat was only prevented from going broadside down the 
 stream, and breaking to pieces against the stones, by the 
 officers and men leaping into the water, and holding her head 
 to the current until the line could be carried again to the 
 shore. The traders, guides, and noost experienced of the 
 boatmen, being of opinion, that unless the boat was further 
 lightened, the winter would put a stop to their progress be- 
 fore they could reach Cumberland House, or any eligible 
 post, sixteen pieces were left with Mr. Bunn, the gentle- 
 man in charge of a depot called Rock House, to be for- 
 warded by the Athabasca canoes next season, this being 
 their place of rendezvous. 
 
 The exertions of the Orkney boatmen, (whom Captain 
 Franklin had engaged) in navigating the rivers deserve the 
 highest commendation. They had often to lift the boats over 
 rocks by leaping into the water, although the temperature 
 was below the freezing point. The immense loads which on 
 many occasions they had to carry in crossing the portages 
 or rocky parts, were also astonishing, as well as their acti- 
 vity on these occasions. 
 
 They continued their journey, and on the twenty-third ar- 
 rived at a depot on Swampy Lake. Here they were supplied 
 with a further stock of provisions, denominated pemmican. 
 This food consists of buffiilo meat, which is pounded and 
 mixed with melted fat. On examination this provision was 
 found to be mouldy ; but upon this wretched food the resi- 
 dents at this cheerless abode, which consisted of only two 
 persons, had to subsist until more arrived. 
 
 On the 24th they passed through some woods which were 
 St 11 smoking, having caught fire in the summer, through 
 the negligence of some party in not properly extinguishing 
 their fires when they left an encampment. This is no un- 
 common occurrence in dry seasons ; and the woods on those 
 occasions are seen blazing to the extent of several miles. 
 
 On the 28th the party arrived at Oxford House, where 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 321 
 
 formerly the Hudson's Bay Company had a station. A few 
 Cree Indians were encamped in the neighbourhood, but they 
 were at this time afflicted with the measles and thehooping^ 
 cough, and were altogether in a wretched state. Captain 
 Franklin endeavoured to prevail on some of these Indians to 
 accompany them in hunting and killing ducks, which here 
 were very numerous ; but could not prevail on any of them 
 to join in the attempt. They procured on Holey Lake, on 
 which Oxford House is situated, a supply of fish, which 
 was very acceptable. On the following day two of the boats 
 in passing Swampy Lake were broken against the rocks, 
 and this accident detained them some time in order to repair 
 the boats. At this place the river runs with rapid force, and 
 they were informed that in the preceding year, in hauling 
 a boat up one of the channels, a man was precipitated into 
 the stream, and hurried down the rapid with such force, tha^ 
 all efforts to save bim were ineifectual. 
 
 On the second of October while superintending the opera- 
 tions of the party, Captain Franklin slipped from the sum- 
 mit of a rock into the river, and for a time all his efforts to 
 extricate himself failed* He was carried a considerable dis- 
 tance down the stream, but at length he caught hold of a 
 willow, and kept fast until two gentlemen belonging to the 
 Hudson's Bay Company came to his assistance. 
 
 At Norway House they met with Lord Selkirk's colonists 
 Vvho had been their companions as they sailed across the At- 
 lantic, and had preceded their departure one day from York 
 Factory. The people were greatly pleased at meeting each 
 other again in so distant and wild a country. 
 
 On the 14th sailing across Cedar Lake, they landed at an 
 Indian tent, which contained two families, to the number of 
 thirty persons. They were very poorly clothed, and af- 
 flicted with the hooping cough and the measles, and were 
 at this time preparing a sweating house to cure their sick 
 companions. By singing and drumming and sweating they 
 cure all the diseases they meet with. At a short distance, 
 
 P. V. 14. T T 
 
322 franklin's journey 
 
 on an adjoining island, another party of Indians bad fixod 
 tbeir residence, for the purpose of killing geese and ducks. 
 They sailed up the Saskatchawan river, and passed another 
 Indian party consisting of three tents, who appeared to be 
 in a noore afflicted state than the former. They were con- 
 cluding their incantations for their sick. Among other of 
 their ceremonies on this occasion they hung up a dog as a 
 propitiatory offering to their imaginary deity. Continuing 
 their journey up the river, they came on the twentieth to 
 another party of Indians. These had a very large tent, 
 forty fe6t long and eighteen feet wide, covered with moose 
 deer skins. There was a fire at each end, and openings 
 for the smoke to pass through. In the centre of the tent 
 there were drums and other instruments of enchantment 
 hanging up, and sleeping apartments appeared to be marked 
 out and divided for different families. 
 
 The party continued their journey across Pine Island 
 Lake, and soon arrived at a station belonging to the Hud- 
 son's Bay Company called Cumberland House. The lake 
 was so severely frozen near the sides, that they were under 
 the necessity of breaking the ice to make their landing good. 
 Governor Will'ams invited them to take up their winter re- 
 sidence at this place, as it appeared impracticable to proceed 
 any further with safety, the frost having set in with great 
 severity. Captain Franklin being satisfied of the propriety 
 of accepting his invitation, preparations were immediately 
 made for their accommodation, and an unfinished building 
 was completed with all speed and every needful arrange- 
 ment made. Captain Franklin visited Mr. Connolly, one 
 of the partners of the North-west Company, who assured 
 him of every endeavour on his part to effect the object of his 
 journey. 
 
 The winter having set in with severity, on the ninth of 
 November it was determined to send for a supply of fish 
 from Swampy River, where a party had been stationed for 
 the purpose of procuring a supply of that article. For this 
 
TO Tllli rOLAR SEA. 323 
 
 purpose the sledges were prepared, and dogs and men were 
 in full spirits at the prospect of their journey, and imme- 
 diately on starting they went forwards with great rapidity. 
 On removing into their newly-prepared house, they found it 
 extremely cold, notwithstanding fires were kept up. 
 
 On the 24th several Indians made their appearance at 
 Cumberland House, who from illness had been incapable of 
 hunting and procuring provisions. They appeared to be in 
 great distress, and probably but for the supply now afforded 
 them by the Company^ they would have perished from 
 want. Indeed instances were stated in which these peo- 
 ple had been so overcome by hunger, as to kill and feed 
 upon each other. 
 
 In the beginning of December there was a partial thaw, 
 and the ice on the Saskatchawan River, and on the lake, 
 broke up, so as to render travelling dangerous. One of the 
 party attached to Captain Franklin having the conduct of a 
 sledge and dogs, in passing from Swampy River with fish, 
 being fatigued, and riding on his pledge, was missed by his 
 companions, who were driving other sledges, and great ap- 
 prehensions were entertained for his safety. A party were 
 sent the next day in search of him, who found him in the 
 woods, to which he had turned, undt-rthe conviction that he 
 could not get across the lake in his sledge. He was unpro- 
 vided with materials for making a fire, and was much chilled 
 by the cold ; but his companions brought him to the house in 
 safety. 
 
 The information which Captain Franklin obtained of the 
 state of the country, induced him to resolve on proceeding 
 himself, during the winter, beyond the Great Slave Lake, 
 and he communicated his resolution to the gentlemen who 
 managed the concerns of the two trading Companies. He 
 requested that by the middle of January he might be fur- 
 nished with the means of conveyance for three persons, 
 having resolved that Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood should 
 reuiain at Cumberland House till the spring. 
 
 T T 2 
 
324 franklin's journey 
 
 Christmas-day was spent at Cumberland Fort with fes- 
 tivity ; all the people belonging to the factory having 
 met, to be present on the occasion, and to partake of a 
 substantial dinner, which was provided on the occasion. 
 The entrance of the new year was celebrated by the dis- 
 charge of fire arras, a ceremony always adopted at this sea- 
 son. On this occasion the captain and his party dined with 
 the gentlemen of the North-west Company, and were regaled 
 with the taste of a beaver, which they found to be excellent 
 food. 
 
 On the morning of the 17th of January, a wolf having 
 been caught in a steel trap, ran off with it. A party went 
 in search of him, taking two English bull dogs and a terrier. 
 At first the dogs appeared fearful, and kept at a distance, 
 barking loudly, but one of the party firing at the wolf, and 
 wounding it, the dogs made an attack upon the creature, 
 and it was soon killed. 
 
 The severity of the winter was felt by the Indians ; many 
 of them being reduced to a state of starvation and the great- 
 est suffering. One evening a poor native entered the house 
 of the North-west Company, with his only child in his arms, 
 accompanied by his starving wife. They had been afflicted 
 with the measles, and as soon as they recovered they set out 
 for Cumberland House. They had been compelled to feed 
 on bits of skin and offal, and at last had been several days 
 without tasting food ; but the desire of saving the life of their 
 infant child added strength to their efforts, and they perse- 
 vered in their journey until they arrived at Cumberland 
 House, but their infant expired just as they arrived within 
 sight of the place. The gentleman in charge of the place 
 received them with the greatest kindness, but language can- 
 not describe their feelings in consequenceof the loss of their 
 >child. 
 
 I'he origin of the Crees, to which nation the Cumberland 
 House Indians belong, is, like that of the other Aborigines 
 of America, involved in obscurity. Mr. Heckewelder, a 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 325 
 
 missionary, who resided long amongst these people, states, 
 that the Lenapi Indians have a tradition amongst them, of 
 their ancestors having come from the westward, and taken 
 possession of the whole country from the Missouri to the At- 
 lantic, after driving away or destroying the original inhabit- 
 ants of the land, whom they termed AUigewi. In this 
 migration and contest, which endured for a series of years, 
 the Mengwe, or Iroquois, kept pace with them, moving in 
 a parallel but more northerly line, and finally settled on the 
 banks of the St. Lawrence, and the great lakes from whence 
 it flows. The Lenape being more numerous, peopled not 
 only the greater part of the country at present occupied by 
 the United States, but also sent detachments to the north- 
 ward as far as the banks of the River Mississippi and the 
 shores of Hudson's Bay. The principal of their northern 
 tribes are now known under the names of Saulteurs or Chip- 
 peways, and Crees ; the former inhabiting the country be- 
 twixt Lakes Winipeg and Superior, the latter frequenting 
 the shores «f Hudson's Bay, from Moose to Churchill, and 
 the country from thence as far to the westward as the plains 
 which lie betwixt the forks of the Saskatchawan. 
 
 These Crees, formerly known by the French Canadian 
 traders under the appellation of Knisteneaux, generally de- 
 signate themselves as Eithinyoowuc (men), or, when they 
 wish to discriminate themselves from the other Indian na- 
 tions, as Nathehwy-withinyoowuc (Southern- men.) 
 
 The moral character of a hunter is acted upon by th« ja* 
 ture of the laud he inhabits, the abundance or scarcity of 
 food, and in his means of access to spirituous liquors. In a 
 country so various in these respects as that inhabited by the 
 Crees, the causes alluded to must operate strongly in pro- 
 ducing a considerable difference of character amongst the 
 various hordes. 
 
 Much of their character, no doubt, originates in their 
 mode of life ; accustomed as a hunter to depend greatly on 
 chance for his subsistence, the Cree takes little thought of 
 
326 franklin's journey 
 
 to-raorrow ; aiul the most ofTensive part of his behaviour — 
 the habit of boasting — has been probably assumed as a ne- 
 cessary part of his armour, which operates upon the fears of 
 his enemies. Every Cree fears the medical or conjuring 
 powers of his neighbour ; but at the same time exalts his own 
 attainments to the skies. " I am God-like," is a common 
 expression amongst them, and they prove their divinity ship 
 by eating live coals, and by various tricks of a similar na- 
 ture. A medicine-bag is an indispensable part of a hunter's 
 equipment. It is generally furnished with a little bit of in- 
 digo, blue \itriol, vermillion, or some other showy article ; 
 and is, when in the hands of a noted conjurer, such an ob- 
 ject of terror to the rest of the tribe, that its possessor is 
 enabled to fatten at his ease Ujxuj the labours of his deluded 
 countrymen. 
 
 A fellow of this description came to Cumberland House in 
 the winter of 1819. Notwithstanding the then miserable 
 state of the Indians, the rapacity of this wretch had been 
 ])reying upon their necessities, and a poor hunter was ac- 
 tually at the moment i)ining away under the influence of his 
 threats. The mighty conjurer, immediately on his arrival at 
 the House, began to trumpet forth his powers, boasting, 
 among other things, tliat although his hands and feet were 
 tied as securely as possible, yet when placed in a conjuring- 
 house, he would speedily disengage himself by the aid of 
 two or three familiar spirits, who were attendant on his call. 
 He was instantly taken at his word, and that his exertions 
 might not be without an aim, a cupot or erreat coat was pro- 
 mised as the reward of his success. A conjuring -house hav- 
 ing been erected in the usual form, th;U is, by sticking four 
 willows in the ground, and tying their tops to a hoop at the 
 height of six or eight feet, he was fettered completely, by 
 winding several fathoms of rope round his body and extremi- 
 ties, and placed in its narrow apartuient, not exceeding two 
 feet in diameter. A moose-skin being then thrown over the 
 frame, secluded him from the sight. He forthwith began to 
 
TO THr. POLAR SFA. 
 
 ?^27 
 
 chaunt a kind of hymn in a very monotonous tone. The rest 
 of the Indians, who seemed in some doubt respecting ti)e 
 powers of a devil when put in competition with those of a 
 white man, ranofed themselves around and watched the re- 
 sult with anxiety. Nothing remarkable occurred for a long- 
 time. The conjurer continued his song at intervals, and it 
 was occasionally taken up by those without. In this man- 
 ner an hour and a half elapsed; but at length attention, 
 which had begun to flag, was roused by the violent shaking 
 of the conjuring house. It was instantly whispered round 
 the circle, that at least one devil had crept under the moose- 
 skin. But it proved to be only the " God-like man" trem- 
 bling with cold. He had entered the lists, stript to the 
 skin, and the thermometer stood very low that evening. 
 His attempts were continued, however, with considerable 
 resolution for half an hour longer, when he reluctantly grave 
 in. He had found no difliculty in slipping through the noose 
 when it was formed by his countrymen ; but in the present 
 instance, the knot was tied by Governor Williams, who is 
 an expert sailor. Alter this unsuccessful exhibition, his 
 credit sunk amazingly, and he took the earliest opportunity 
 of sneaking away from the fort. 
 
 About two years before a conjurer paid more dearly for his 
 temerity. In a quarrel with an Indian he threw out some 
 obscure threats of vengeance, which passed unnoticed at the 
 time, but were afterwards remembered. They mot in the 
 spring at Carlton House, after passing the winter in differ- 
 ent parts of the country, during which the Indian's child 
 died. The conjurer had the folly to boast that he had caused 
 its death, and the enraged father shot him dead on the spot. 
 It may be remarked, however, that both these Indians were 
 inhabitants of the plains, and had been taught, by their in- 
 tercourse with the turbulent Stone Indians, to set but com- 
 paratively little value on the life of a man. 
 
 During their visits to a post, they are suffered to enter 
 every apartment in the house, without the least restraint. 
 
828 franklin's journey 
 
 and although articles of value to them are scattered about, 
 nothing is ever missed. They scrupulously avoid moving 
 any thing from its place, although they are often prompted 
 by curiosity to examine it. In some cases, indeed, they 
 carry this principle to a degree of self-denial which would 
 hardly be expected. It often happens that meat, which has 
 been paid for, (if the poisonous draught it procures them can 
 be considered as payment,) is left at their lodges until a con- 
 venient opportunity occurs of carrying it away. They will 
 rather pass several days without eating, than touch the meat 
 thus intrusted to their charge, even when there exists a 
 prospect of replacing it. 
 
 The hospitality of the Crees is unbounded. They afford a 
 certain asylum to the h ilf-breed children when deserted by 
 their unnatural white fathers ; and the infirm, and indeed 
 every individual in an encampment, share the provisions of 
 a successful hunter as long as they last. Fond too as a Cree 
 is of spirituous liquors, he is not happy unless all his neigh- 
 bours partake with him. It is not easy, however, to say 
 what share ostentation may have in the apparent munificence 
 in the latter article ; for when an Indian, by a good hunt, is 
 enabled to treat the others with a keg of rum, he becomes 
 the chief of a night, assumes no little stateliness of manner, 
 and is treated with deference by those who regale at his ex- 
 pence. Prompted also by the desire of gaining a name, they 
 lavish away the articles they purchase at the trading posts, 
 and are well satisfied if repaid in praise. 
 
 The Cree women are not in general treated harshly by 
 their husbands, and possess considerable influence over them. 
 They often eat, and even get drunk, in consort with the 
 men ; a considerable portion of the labour, however, falls to 
 the lot of the wife. She makes the hut, cooks, dresses the 
 skins, and, for the most partj carries the heaviest load ; 
 but, when she is unable to perform her task, the husband 
 dpes not consider it beneath his dignity to assist her. Capa- 
 ble as they are of behaving thus kindly, they affect in their 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA' 329 
 
 discourse to despise the softer sex, and on solemn occasions 
 will not suflfer them to eat before them, or even come into 
 their presence. In this they are countenanced by the white 
 residents, most of whom have Indian or half-breed wives, 
 but seem afraid of treating them with the tenderness or at- 
 tention due to every female, lest they should themselves be 
 despised by the Indians. At least, this is the only reason 
 they assign for their neglect of those whom they make part- 
 ners of their beds, and mothers of their children. 
 
 When a hunter marries his first wife, he usually takes up 
 kis abode in the tent of his father-in-law, and of course 
 hunts for the family; but when he becomes a father, the fa- 
 milies are at liberty to separate, or remain together, as their 
 inclinations prompt them. His second wife is, for the most 
 part, sister of the first, but not necessarily so ; for an Indian 
 of another family often presses his daughter upon a hunter 
 whom he knows to be capable of maintaining her well. The 
 first wife always remains the mistress of the tent, and as- 
 sumes an authority over the others, which is not in every 
 case quietly submitted to. It may be remarked that while 
 an Indian resides with his wife's family, it is extremely im- 
 proper for his mother-in-law to speak, or even look at him ; 
 and when she has a communication to make, it is the eti- 
 quette that she should turn her back upon him, and address 
 bim only through the medium of a third person. This singu- 
 lar custom is not very creditable to the Indians, if it really 
 had its origin in the cause which they at present assign for it; 
 namely, that a woman's speaking to her son-in-law is a sure 
 indication of her having conceived a criminal affection for 
 bim. 
 
 Tattooing is almost universal with the Crees. The wo- 
 men are in general content with having one or two lines 
 drawn from the corners of the mouth towards the angles of 
 the lower jaw ; but some of the men have their bodies co- 
 vered with a great variety ©f lines and figures. It seems to 
 be considered by most rather as a proof of courage than an 
 P. V. 14. U u 
 
330 franklin's Journey 
 
 ornament, the o})eration being very painful, and, if the 
 fii^ures are numerous and intricate, lasting several days. 
 The iines on the face are formed by dexterously runnings an 
 awl under the cuticle, and then drawing a cord, dipt in char- 
 coal and water, through the canal thus formed. The punc- 
 tures on the body are formed by needles of various sizes set 
 in a frame. A number of hawk bells attached to this frame, 
 serve, by their noise, to cover the suppressed groans of the 
 sufferer, and, probably for the same reason, the process is 
 accompanied with singing. An indelible stain is produced 
 by rubbing a little finely-powdered willow-charcoal into the 
 punctures. 
 
 In the month of May, whilst Dr. Richardson was at Carl- 
 ton House, a Cree hunter resolved upon dedicating several 
 articles to one of his deities named Kepoochikawn. The 
 ceremony took place in a sweating-house, or, as it may be 
 designated, from its more important use, a temple, which 
 was erected for the occasion by the worshipper's two wives. 
 It was framed of arched willows, interlaced so as to form a 
 vault capable of containing ten or twelve men, ranged 
 closely side by side, and high enough to admit of their sit- 
 ting erect. It was very similar in shape to an oven, or the 
 kraal of a Hottentot, and was closely covered with moose 
 skins, except at the east end, which was left open for i 
 door. Near the centre of the building there was a hole in 
 the ground, which contained ten or twelve red-hot stonesj 
 having a few leaves strewed around them. When the wo- 
 men had completed the preparations, the hunter made his 
 appearance, perfectly naked, carrying in his hand an image 
 of Kepoochikawn, rudely carved, and about two feet long. 
 He placed his god at the upper end of the sweating-house, 
 with his face towards the door, and proceeded to tie round 
 its neck his offerings, consisting of a cotton handkerchief, a 
 looking-glass, a tin pan, a piece of ribband, and a bit of to- 
 bacco, which he had procured the same day, at the expense 
 of fifteen or twenty skins. Whilst he was thus occupied. 
 
TO THE FOLAR' SEA>. ^3il 
 
 several other Crees, who were encamped in the neighbour- 
 hood, having been informed of what was going on, arrived^ 
 and stripping at the door of the temple, entered, and 
 ranged themselves on each side ; the hunter himself squatted 
 down at the right hand of Kepoochikawm 
 
 The hunter, who throughout officiated as-hiffb priest?,, com- 
 menced by making a speech to Kepoochikawn,. in which he 
 requested him to be propitious, told him of the value of the 
 tilings now presented, and cautioned himagainst ingratitude. 
 This oration was delivered in a moootoncvus- ton^e, afld with 
 great rapidity of utterance, and the speaker retained his 
 squatting posture, but turned his face to -his god. At its- 
 conclusion, the priest began a hymn, of which the burthen 
 WHS, " 1 will walk with God, I will go with the animal f 
 and at the end of each stanza, the rest joined in an insigni- 
 hcant chorus. He next took up a calumet, filled with a 
 mixture of tobacco and bear-berry leaves, and holding its 
 stem by the middle, in a horizontal position, over the hot 
 stones, turned it slowly in a circular manner,, following the 
 course of the sun. Its mouth-piece being then with much 
 formality held for a few seconds to the face of Kepoochi- 
 kawn, it was next presented to the earth, having been pre- 
 viously turned a second time over the hot stones ; and after- 
 wards, with equal ceremony, |>ointed in succession to the 
 four quarters of the sky ; then drawings few whiffs from the 
 calumet himself, he handed it to his left-hand neighbour, by 
 v;hom it was gravely passed round the circle. When the 
 tobacco was exhausted by passing several times round, the 
 hunter made another speech, similar to the former ; but was, 
 if possible, still more urgent in bis requests. A second 
 hymn followed, and a quantity of water being sprinkled on 
 the hot stones, tlie attendants were ordered to close the 
 temple, which they did, by very carefully covering it up 
 with moose-skins. They continued in the vapour- bath for 
 thirty-five minutes, during which time a third speech was 
 niadf, and a hymn ^as sung, and water oceasiomilly sprin- 
 
 U u 2 
 
332 
 
 kled <*n the stones, which still retained much heat, as was 
 evident from the hissing noise they made. The coverings 
 were then thrown off, and the poor half-stewed worshippers 
 exposed freely to the air ; but they kept their squatting pos- 
 tures until a fourth speech was made, in which the deity was 
 strongly reminded of the value of the gifts, and exhorted to 
 take an early opportunity of shewing his gratitude. The ce- 
 remony concluded by the sweaters scampering down to the 
 river, and plunging into the stream- It may be remarked, 
 that the door of the temple, and, of course, the face of the 
 god, was turned to the rising sun ; and the spectators were 
 desired not to block up entirely the front of the building, but 
 to leave a lane for the entrance or exit of some influence of 
 which they could not give a correct description. Several 
 Indians, who lay on the outside of the sweating-house as 
 spectators, seemed to regard the proceedings with very lit- 
 tle awe, and were extremely free in the remarks and jokes 
 they passed upon the condition of the sweaters, and even of 
 Kepoochikawn himself. One of them made a remark, that 
 the shawl would have been much better bestowed upon him- 
 self than upon Kepoochikawn, but the same fellow after- 
 wards stripped and joined in the ceremony. 
 
 Dr. Richardson took an opportunity of asking a com- 
 municative old Indian, of the Blackfoot nation, his opinion 
 of a future state ; he replied, that they had heard from 
 their fathers, that the souls of the departed have to scram- 
 ble with great labour up the sides of a steep mountain, 
 upon attaining the summit of which they are rewarded with 
 the prospect of an extensive plain, abounding in all sorts 
 of game, and interspersed here and there with new tents, 
 pitched in agreeable situations. Whilst they are absorbed 
 in the contemplation of this delightful scene, they are de- 
 scried by the inhabitants of the happy land, who, clothed 
 in new skin-dresses, approach and welcome with every de- 
 monstration of kindness those Indians who have led good 
 lives ; but the bad Indians, who have imbued their hands iu 
 
TO THE POLAR SI? A. 3^*3 
 
 the blood of their countrymen, are told to return from 
 whence they came, and without more ceremony precipitated 
 down the steep sides of the mountain. 
 
 Women who have been guilty of infanticide, never reach 
 the mountain at all, but are compelled to hover round the 
 seats of their crimes, with branches of trees tied to their 
 legs. The melancholy sounds which are heard in the still 
 summer evenings, and which the ignorance of the white peo- 
 ple consider as the screams of the goat-suckers, are really, 
 according to the old Indian's account, the moanings of these 
 unhappy beings. 
 
 The Creeshave somewhat similar notions, but as they in- 
 habit a country widely different from the mountainous lands 
 of the Blackfoot Indians, the difficulty of their journey lies 
 in walking along a slender and slippery tree, laid as a bridge 
 across a rapid stream of stinking and muddy water. The 
 night owl is regarded by the Crees with the same dread that 
 it has been viewed by other nations. One small species, 
 which is known to them by its melancholy nocturnal hootings, 
 (for as it never appears in the day, few even of the hunters 
 have ever seen it,) is particularly ominous. They call it the 
 cheepai-peethees, or death bird, and never fail to whistle 
 when they hear its note. If it does not reply to the whistle 
 by its hootings, the speedy death of the inquirer is augured. 
 
 When a Cree dies, that part of his property which he has 
 not given away before his deaths is burned with him, and his 
 relations take care to place near the grave little heaps of 
 fire-wood, food, pieces of tobacco, and such things as he is 
 likely to need in his journey. Similar offerings are made 
 when they revisit the grave, and as kettles, and other arti- 
 cles of value, are sometimes offered, they are frequently 
 carried off by passengers, yet the relations are not dis- 
 pleased, provided sufficient- respect has been shewn to the 
 dead, by putting some other article, although of inferior 
 value, in the place of that which has been taken away. 
 
 The Crees are wont to celebrate the returns of the seasons 
 
334 franklin's journey 
 
 by religious festivals, but we are unable to describe the ce- 
 remonial in use on these joyous occasions from personal ob- 
 servation. The following brief notice of a feast, which was 
 given by an old Cree chief, according to his annual custom, 
 on the first croaking of the frogs, is drawn up from the in- 
 formation of one of the guests. A large oblong tent, or 
 lods^e, was prepared for the important occasion by the men 
 -jfthe party, none of the women being suffered to interfere. 
 ft faced the setting sun, and great care was taken that every 
 thing about it should be as neat and clean as possible. Three 
 tire places were raised within it, at equal distances, and lit- 
 tle holes were dug in the corners, to contain the ashes of 
 their pipes. In a recess, at its upper end, one large image 
 of Kepoochikawn, and many smaller ones, were ranged with 
 their faces towards the door. The food was prepared by tlie 
 chief's wife, and consisted of marrow pemmican, berries 
 boiled with fat, and various other delicacies that had been 
 j>reservttd for the occasion. 
 
 The preparations being completed, and a slave, who" the 
 chief had taken in war, having warned the guests to the feast 
 by the mysterious word peenasheway, they came, dressed 
 out in their best garments, and ranged themselves according 
 to their seniority, the eldest seating themselves next the 
 chief at the upper end, and the young men near the door. 
 
 The chief commenced by addressing his deities in an ap- 
 j>r()priate speech, in which he told them, that he had has- 
 tened, as soon as summer was indicated by the croaking of 
 the frogs, to solicit their favour for himself and his young 
 men, and hoped that they would send him a pleasant and 
 ))lentiful season. His oration was concluded by an invoca- 
 tion to all the animals in the land, and a signal being given 
 to the slave at the door, he invited them severally by their 
 names to come and partake of ihe feast. 
 
 The Cree chief having by this very general invitation dis- 
 J layed his unbounded hospitality, next ordered one of the 
 young men to distribute a rat ss to each of the guests. This 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. S35 ^ 
 
 was done in new dishes of birch bark ; and the utmost dili- 
 gence was displayed in emptying them/it being considered 
 extremely improper in a man to leaTe any part of that which 
 is placed before him on such occasions. It is not inconsistent 
 with good manners, however, but rather considered as apiece 
 of politeness, that a guest who had been too liberally supplied^ 
 should hand the surplus to his neighbour. When the viands 
 had disappeared, each filled his calumet and began to smoke 
 with great assiduity, and in the course of the evening several 
 songs were sung to the responsive sounds of the drum, and 
 seeseequay, their usual accompaniments. 
 
 The Cree drum is double-headed, but possessing very little 
 depth, it strongly resembles a tambourine in shape. Its want 
 of depth is compensated, however, by its diameter, which 
 frequently exceeds tiiree feet. It is covered with moose- 
 skin parchment, and painted with rude figures of men and 
 beasts, having various fantastic additions, and is beat with a 
 stick. The seeseequay is merely a rattle, formed by enclos- 
 ing a few grains of shot in a piece of dried hide. These two 
 instruments are used in all their religious ceremonies, except 
 those which take place in a sweating-house. 
 
 A Cree places great reliance on his drum, and I cannot ad- 
 duce a stronger instance than that of the poor man who is 
 mentioned in a preceding page, as having lost his only child 
 by famine, almost within sight of the fort. Notwithstanding 
 his exhausted state, he travelled with an enormous drum tied 
 to his back. 
 
 Many of the Crees make vows to abstain from particular 
 kinds of food, either for a specific time, or for the remainder 
 of their life, esteeming such abstinence to be a certain means 
 of acquiring some supernatural powers, or at least of entailing 
 upon themselves a succession uf good fortune. 
 
 One of the wives of the Carlton hunter, of whom we have 
 already spoken as the worshipper of Kepoochikawn, made a 
 determination not to eat of the flesh of the Wawaskeesh, or 
 American stag ; but during our abode at that place, she waa^ 
 
836 franklin's JOURNEY 
 
 induced to feed heartily upon it, through the intentional de- 
 ceit of her husband, who told her that it was buffalo meat. 
 When she had finished her meal, her husband told her of the 
 trick, and seemed to enjoy the terror with which she con- 
 templated the consequences of the involuntary breach of her 
 vow. Vows of this nature arc often made by a Cree before 
 he joins a war party, and they sometimes, like the eastern 
 bonzes, walk for a certain number of days on all fours, or im- 
 pose upon themselves some other penance, equally ridiculous. 
 By such means the Cree warrior becomes godlike ; but unless 
 he kills an enemy before his return, his newly-acquired 
 powers are estimated to be productive in future of some 
 direful consequence to himself. 
 
 As the party did not witness any of the Cree dances them- 
 selves, it may be remarked, that like the other North Ameri- 
 can nations, they are accustomed to practice that amusement 
 on meeting with strange tribes, before going to war, and on 
 other solemn occasions. 
 
 The habitual intoxication of the Cumberland House Crees 
 has induced such a disregard of personal appearance, that 
 they are squalid and dirty in the extreme ; hence a minute 
 description of their clothing would be by no means interesting. 
 The dress of the male consists of a blanket thrown over the 
 shoulders, a leathern shirt or jacket, and a piece of cloth tied 
 round the middle. The women have in addition along petti- 
 coat ; and both sexes wear a kind of wide hose, which reach- 
 ing from the ankle to the middle of the thigh, are suspended 
 by strings to the girdle. These hose, or as they are termed, 
 Indian stockings, are commonly ornamented with beads or 
 ribands, and from their convenience, have been universally 
 adopted by the white residents^ as an essential part of their 
 winter clothing. Their shoes, or rather short boots, for they 
 tie round the ankle, are made of soft dressed moose-skins, 
 and during the winter they wrap several pieces of blanket 
 round their feet. 
 
 They are fond of European articles of dress, considering 
 
TO THE l»OLAR SfeA 317 
 
 their own dress a* inferior. — ^The females strive to imitate 
 the wives of the traders, wearing shawls and printed calicoes 
 when they can procure them; but their custom of using fat 
 to grease their hair and faces soon render all these garments 
 so dirty and filthy, that they lose very soon their original 
 appearance, and send forth an effluvia of a most disagfreeable 
 nature. 
 
 They form a kind of cradle for their infants, which is ex- 
 tremely suitable for the purpose* It is formed of a bag 
 bedded with bog moss, and may be suspended to a tree, or 
 hung on the parent's back in the most secure and comfortable 
 manner. 
 
 It may be profitable to the reader (amidst the many ills he 
 thinks he has to bear) to compare his own state, and the 
 comforts he possesses, with those enjoyed by these poor Indi- 
 ans. The most distressed state of society in Great Britain, 
 IS comfort, ease, and security, compared with that of these 
 people. While describing the character of these Indians, 
 the following account of other tribes recited by John Eliot, a 
 missionary, many years among them, may be added. He says, 
 their housing is nothing but a few mats tied about poles fas- 
 toned in the earth ; their clothing is but the skin of a beast, 
 covering their hind-parts, their fore-parts having but a little 
 apron where nature calls for secresy ; their diet has not a 
 greater dainty than their nokehick, that is, a spoonful of 
 parched meal, with a spoonful of water, which will strengthen 
 them to travel a day together ; except we should mention the 
 flesh of deers, bears, moose, raekoous, and the like, which 
 they have when they can catch them : as also a little fish, 
 which if they would preserve, it is by drying, not by salt- 
 ing ; for they had not a grain of salt in the world, I think, till 
 we bestowed it on them. Their physic includes, (excepting a 
 few odd specifics, which some of them encounter certain cases 
 with,) nothing hardly, but a hot-house, or a powaw ; their 
 hot house is a little cave, eight feet over ; where, after they 
 have terriblv heated it, a crew of them go sit and sweat 
 
 a Id XJi 
 
338 FRANKLIN'S JOIJRNEV. 
 
 and smoke for an hour logether, and then unniediiitely rim 
 into some very cold adjacent brovok, without the least mischief 
 to them. In this way they recover themselves of some 
 diseases ; but in most of their dang-ei-ous distempers, powavv 
 must be sent for ; that is, a priest, who has more familiarity 
 with Satan than his neighbours ; this conjurer comes ana 
 roars, and howls, and uses magical ceremonies over the sick 
 man, and is well paid for it when he has done. If this do 
 not effect the cure, " the man*s time is come, and there 
 ^ an end." 
 
 They live in a country full of the best ship-timber undei 
 heaven, but never saw a ship till some came from Europe 
 hither; and then they were scared out of their wits, to see 
 the monster come sailing in, and spitting fire with a mighty 
 noise out of her floating side. They cross the water in 
 canoes made sometimes of trees which they burn and hew 
 till they have hollowed them; and sometimes of oarks, 
 which they stitch into a light sort of vessel, to be easily 
 carried over land ; if they are over-set, it is but a little pad- 
 ling like a dog, and they are soon where they were. 
 
 Their way of living is infinitely barbarous : the men are 
 most abominably slothful ; making their poor squaws, or 
 wives, plant and dress and barn and beat their corn, and 
 build their wigwams for them. In the mean time, theii 
 chief employment, when they will condescend unto any, 
 is that of hunting ; wherein they will go out some scores, 
 if not hundreds of them in a company, driving all befoie 
 them. 
 
 They continue in a place till they have burnt up all the 
 wood thereabouts, and then they pluck up stakes, to follow 
 the wood which they cannot fetch home unto themselv^^s 
 Hence, when they inquire about the English, '^ whv come 
 they hither ?" they very learnedly determine the case. ** it 
 was because they wanted firing." 
 
 Y Their divisii^n of time is by sleeps, and moons, and wm- 
 tQ|Et..at»d by lodging abroad they -have somewhat observed 
 
TO THE POLVE SE.4. 3^9 
 
 the motions of the stars; among which it has b^en Riirpris- 
 ing to find, that they have always ealiea Charleses Wain 
 by the name of Paukunnawaw, or the Bear, which is the 
 name whereby Enropeans also have distinguishea it. More- 
 over, they have little if any traditions among them worthv 
 of onr notice ; and reading and writing is altogether un- 
 known to them, though there is a rock or two in the eounirv 
 that has unaccountable characters engraved upon it. AH 
 the religion they have, amounts unto thus much : they be- 
 lieve that there are many gods, who made and own tiie 
 several nations of the world ; of which a certain great god 
 in the south-west regions of heaven, bears the greatest 
 lignre. They believe that every remarkable creature has a 
 peculiar god within it, or about it: there is with them a 
 sun-god, a moon-god, and the like ; and they cannot con-- 
 ccive but that the fire might be a kind of god, inasmuch as 
 a spark of it will soon produce very strange cflFects. They 
 ])elieve that when any good or ill happens to them, there is 
 the favour or the anger of a god expressed in it ; and hence,- 
 as in a time of calamity, they keep a dance, or a day of ex- 
 travagant ridiculous devotions to their god; so in a time of 
 jirosperity, they likewise have a feast, wherein^ they aKo 
 make presents one unto another. Finally, they believe that 
 their chief god, Kautantowity made a man and woman o^ 
 a stone ; which, upon dislike, he broke to pieces, and made 
 another man and woman of a tree, which were the fountains 
 of all mankind ; and, that we all have in us immortal souls, 
 which, if we are godly, shall go to a splendid eutertainmei)t 
 with Kautantowlt ; but othervvise, must wander about in a 
 restless horror for ever. But if you say to them any thing 
 of a resurrection, they will reply upon you, " I shall never 
 believe it." 
 
 Eliot saw the Indians using many parables in their dis- 
 courses ; much given to anointing their heads ; mucn ae- 
 Jighted in dancing, especially after victories; compu.,;jic 
 ilieir times by nights and months ; giving rlownos ror wives; 
 
340 FRANKLIN S JOURNEY 
 
 causing their women to dwell by themselves at certain 
 seasons, for secret causes ; and accustoming themselves to 
 grievous mournings and yellings for the dead; all which 
 were usual things among the Israelites. They have too a 
 great unkindness for swine ; but I suppose that is because 
 our hogs devour the clams, which are a dainty with them. 
 Eliot also saw some learned men looking for the lost Israel- 
 ites among the Indians in America, and counting that the} 
 had good reasons for so doing. And a few small arguments 
 or indeed but conjectures, meeting with a favourable dispo- 
 sition in the hearer, will carry some conviction with them. 
 He saw likewise the judgments threatened unto the Israel- 
 ites of old, strangely fulfilled upon the Indians ; particularly 
 that, " Ye shall eat the flesh of your sons,'* which is done 
 with exquisite cruelties upon the prisoners that they take 
 from one another in their battles. 
 
 The first step which Eliot judged necessary to be taken 
 by him, was to learn the Indian language, for he saw them 
 so stupid and senseless, that they would never so much as in- 
 quire after the religion of the strangers who came into their 
 country, much less would they so far imitate them as to leave 
 off their way of living, that they might be partakers of and 
 spiritual advantage, unless he could first address them in a 
 language of their own. He hired a native to teach him, and 
 with a laborious care and skill, reduced it into a grammar, 
 which afterwards he published. If their alphabet be shorty 
 the words composed of it a,re long enough to tire the pa- 
 tience of any scholar in the world. One would think they 
 had been growing ever since Babel, unto the dimensions to 
 which they are now extended* For instance, Nummatche- 
 kodtantaMooOftgammnonash, signifies no more in English 
 than our lusts; and to translate our loves, it must be 
 nothing shorter tliEin Noowomantammooonkanunon/nash. We 
 find in all this language there is not the least affinity to, 
 or derivation from any European speech that we are ac- 
 quainted with. This tedious language Eliot quickly be- 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA 34 1 
 
 terre a master of; he employed a Wtty Indian, who ai^so 
 spoka English well, for his assistance in it ; and compiling 
 some discourses by his help, be would single out a word, a 
 noun, a verb, and pursue it through all its variations Hav- 
 ifig finished his grammar, at the close he writes, " Prayer^ 
 aud pains, through faith in Jesus Christ, will do any 
 'hiug T' and being by his prayers and pains thus famished, 
 he set himself to preach the gospel of our Lord Jesus Christ 
 among these desolate outcasts. 
 
 The North-west Company was formed originally by the 
 merchants of Montreal, who wisely considered that the fur 
 trade might be carried on to those distant parts of the con 
 tinent, inhabited solely by Indians, with more security and 
 greater profit, if they joined together iji a body, tlian if they 
 continued to trade separately. The stock of the company 
 was divided into forty shares ; and as the number of mer* 
 chants in the town at that time was not very great, this ar- 
 rangement afiForded an opportunity to every one of them to 
 join in the company if they thought proper. 
 
 The company principally carries on its trade by means of 
 the Utawas or Grand Kiver, that falls into the St. Law- 
 renv,e about thirty miles above Montreal, and which forms 
 by its confluence with that river, " Le Lac de Deux Mon- 
 tagues et le Lac St. Louis," the Lake of the Two Moun- 
 tains and the Lake of St. Louis, wherein are several large 
 islands. To convey the furs down this river, they make use 
 of canoes, formed of the bark erf the birch tree, some of 
 which are upon such a large scale that they are capable 
 of containmg two tons, but they seldom put so much iu 
 them, especially on this river, it being in many places 
 shallow, rapid, and full of rocks, and contains no less than 
 thirty-two portages. 
 
 These canoes are navigated by the French Canadians, 
 who are particularly fond of the employment, preferring it 
 in general to that of cultivating the ground. A fleet of 
 tlicm sets off" from Montreal about the month of May, laden 
 
3i2 franklin's journey 
 
 with provisions, consisting chiefly of biscuit and salt porke 
 p.ifficient to last the crews till their return, and also wi:h 
 the articles given in barter to the Indians, At some of the 
 shallow places in the river, it is sufficient if the men merely 
 get out of the canoes, and push them on into the deep 
 ivater ; but at others, where there are dangerous rapids and 
 sharp rocks, it is necessary for the men to unlade the ca- 
 noes, and carry both them and the cargoes on their shoulders 
 till they come again to a safe part of the river. At night 
 they drag the canoes upon shore, light a fire, cook their 
 provisions for the following day, and sleep upon the ground 
 wrapped up in their blankets. If it happens to rain very 
 hard, they sometimes shelter themselves with boughs of 
 trees, but in general they remain under the canopy of hea- 
 ven, without any covering but their blankets : they copy ex- 
 actly the Indian mode of life on these occasions, and many 
 of them even wear the Indian dresses, which they find moro 
 convenient than their own. 
 
 Having ascended the Utawas River for about two hun- 
 dred and eighty miles, which it takes them about eighteen 
 days to perfoim, they then cross by a portage into T/ake 
 Nispissing, and from this lake by another portage they get * 
 upon French River, that falls into Lake Huron on the 
 north-east side ; then coasting along this last lake, they 
 nass through the Straits of St. Mary, where there is another 
 portage into Lake Superior ; and coasting afterwards along 
 the shores of Lake Superior, they come to the Grand Por- 
 tae-e on the north-west side of it ; from hence, by a chain of 
 small lakes and rivers, they proceed on to the Rainy Lake 
 to the Lake of the Woods, and for hundreds of miles beyond 
 it. through Lake Winnipeg, &c. 
 
 The canoes, however, which go so far up the country 
 never return the same year ; those intended to bring bact 
 car&oes immediately, stop at the Grand Portage, where the 
 tuvs are collected ready for them bv the agents of the ccm- 
 paiiy. Tlie furs arc made up in packs of a certain weiglil. 
 
TO THE POLAK SKA. 34S 
 
 and a paiti<?iilar number is put into each canoe. By know- 
 ing- thus the exact weight of every pack, there can be no 
 embezzlement ; and at the portages there is no time wasted 
 in allotting to each man his load, every one being obliged to 
 carry so many packs. 
 
 At the Grand Portage, and along that immense chain of 
 lakes and rivers, which extend beyond Lake Superior, the 
 company has regular posts, where the agents reside ; and 
 with such astonishing enterprize and industry have the affaii^s 
 of this company been carried on, that trading posts are esta- 
 blished within five hundred miles of the Pacific Ocean. 
 
 In the first attempt which Mr. M'Kenzie made to penei» 
 trate to the ocean, he set out early in the spring from the re- 
 motest of the posts belonging to the company. He took 
 with him a simple canoe, and a party of chosen men; and 
 after passing over prodigious tracts of land, never before 
 traversed by any white person, at last came to a large river^ 
 Here the canoe, which was carried by the men on their 
 shoulders, was launched, and having all embarked, they 
 proceeded down the stream. From the course this river 
 took for a very g^-eat distance, Mr. M'Kenzie was led to 
 imagine that it was one of those rivers he was in quest of; 
 3iamely, one which emptied itself into the Pacific Ocean ; 
 but at the end of several weeks, during which they had 
 worked their way downward with great eagerness, he was 
 convinced, from the gradual inclination of the river towards 
 another quarter, that he must have been mistaken ; and that 
 it was one of those immense rivers, so iQumerous on the con 
 tinent of North America, that ran into Baffin's Bay, or th^ 
 Arctic Ocean. 
 
 The pai ty was now in a very critical situation ; the sea 
 son was far advanced, and the length of way which they 
 had to return was prodigious. If they attempted t/> go back 
 and were overtaken by winter, they must in all probabilitj' 
 peiish for want of provisions in an uninhabited country ; it 
 on the contarry, theynuide up their minds tf) spend th<* winter 
 
344 franklin's journey. 
 
 where they were, they had no time to lose in building 
 huia. and going out to hunt and fish, that they might havo 
 sufficient stores to support them through that dreary season. 
 Mr. M'Kenzie represented the matter, in the most open 
 terms« lo his men, and left it to themselves to determine the 
 part they woula take. The men were for going back at all 
 hazaras ; ana the result was, that they reached their friends 
 in safety. The difficulties they had to contend with, and 
 the exertions they made in returning, were almost surpass- 
 ii^ belief- 
 
 In the second expedition entered upon by Mr. M*Kenzie, 
 and which succeeded to his wishes, he set out in the same 
 luarjier, well provided with several different things, which 
 he found the want of in the first expedition. He was ex- 
 tremely well furnished this time with astronomical instru- 
 ments, and in particular with a good time-piece, that he 
 procuied from London. He took a course somewhat different 
 from tiie first, and passed through many nations of Indians 
 who had never before seen the face of a white man, amongst 
 some of whom he was for a time in imminent danger ; but 
 he louiiQ means at last to conciliate their good will. From 
 some of these Indians he learned, that there was a ridge of 
 mountains at a little distance, beyond which the rivers all 
 ran in a western direction. Having engaged some of them 
 therefore for guides, he proceeded according to their direc- 
 tions until he came to the mountaias, and after ascending 
 them with prodigious labour, found, to his great satisfaction, 
 that the account the Indians had given was true, and that 
 the rivers on tiie opposite side did indeed all run to the 
 west. He followed the course of one of them, and finally 
 came to the Pacific Ocean, not far from Nootka Sound. 
 
 Here he wa<» given to understand by the natives, and their 
 account was confirmed by the sight of some little artielet 
 they had amongst them, that an English vessel had quitted 
 the coast only six weeks before. This was a great morti^- 
 caiiou to Mr. M'Ktuzie, for had there been a sliip on th© 
 
TU THE POLAR SEA. 345 
 
 coast, he would most gladly have embarked in it rather than 
 encounter the same difficulties, and be exposed to the same 
 perils, which he had experienced in getting there ; however 
 there was no alternative ; he set out after a short time on 
 his journey back again, and having found his canoe quit© 
 safe under some bushes, near the head of the river, where 
 he had hid it, together with some provisions, lest on going 
 down to the coast the natives might have proved unfriendly, 
 and have cut off his retreat by seizing upon it, he finally 
 arrived at one of the trading posts in security. 
 
 Many other individuals belonging to the North-west 
 Company, before Mr. M^Kenzie set out, penetrated far into 
 the country in different directions, and much beyond what 
 any person had done before them, in order to establish posts. 
 In some of these excursions they fell in with the agents of 
 the Hudson's Bay Company, who were also extending their 
 posts from another quarter: this unexpected meeting be- 
 tween the two companies, at one time gave rise to some very 
 unpleasant altercations, and the Hudson's Bay Company 
 threatened the other with an immediate prosecution for an 
 infringement of its charter. 
 
 By its charter, it seems, the Hudson's Bay Company was 
 allowed the exclusive privilege of trading to the Bay, and 
 along all the rivers and waters connected with it. This 
 charter, however was granted at a time when the northern 
 parts of the continent were much less known than they are 
 now, for to have the exclusive trade along all the waters 
 connected with Hudson's Bay was, literally speaking, to have 
 the exclusive trade of the greater part of the continent of 
 North America. Hudson's Bay, by a variety of rivers and 
 lakes, is closely connected with Lake Superior, and from 
 that chain of lakes of which Lake Superior is one, there is 
 a water communication throughout all Canada, and a very 
 great part of the United States ; however, when the agents 
 of the North-west Company were fixing trading posts upon 
 some rivers which ran immediately into Hudson's Bay, it 
 
 b 15 YY 
 
34:6 franklin's JOURNEVr 
 
 undoubtedly appeared to be 'an infringement of the charter, 
 and so indeed it must stiictly have been, had not the Hud- 
 son's Bay Company itself infringed its own charter in the 
 first instance, or at least neglected to comply with all the 
 stipulations contained therein. A clause seems to hare 
 been in the charter, which, at the same time that it granted 
 to the company the exclusive privilege of trading to Hud- 
 son's Bay, and along all the waters connected with it, bound 
 it to erect a new post twelve miles farther to the westward 
 every year, otherwise the charter was to become void. This 
 had not been done ; the North-west Company therefore 
 rested perfectly easy about the menaces of a prosecution, 
 satisfied that the other company did not in fact legally pos- 
 sess those privileges to which it laid claim 
 
 The Hudson's Bay Company, though it threatened, 
 never indeed attempted to put its threats into execution, 
 well knowing the weakness of its cause, but continued, 
 nevertheless, to watch the motions of its rival with a most 
 jealous eye; and as in extending their respective trades, 
 the posts of the two companies were approximating nearer 
 and nearer to each other every year, there was great reason 
 to imagine that their dlflferences, instead of abating, would 
 become still greater than they were, and finally, perhaps, 
 lead to consequences of the most serious nature. A circum- 
 stance, however, unexpectedly took place, at a time when 
 the greatest enmity subsisted between the parties, which 
 happily reconciled them to each other, and terminated all 
 their disputes. 
 
 A very powerful nation of Indians, called the Assiniboins, 
 who inhabit an extended tract of country to the south-west 
 of Lake Winnipeg, conceiving that the Hudson's Bay Com- 
 pany had encroached unreasonably upon their territories, 
 and had otherwise maltreated a part of their tribe, formed 
 a resolution of instantly destroying a post established bv 
 that company in their neighbourhoad. A large body of ther\ 
 soon collected together, and breathing the fiercest cries 
 
TO THE I'OLAR iiK\. $47 
 
 of revenge, marched uiiperceived and unsuspected by the 
 party against whom their expedition was planned, till within 
 a short distcUice from their post. Here they halted according 
 to custom, wailing only for a favourable moment to pounce 
 upon their prey. Some of the agents of the North-west 
 Company, however, who w^ere scattered about this part of 
 the country, fortunately got mtelligence of their design. 
 They knew the weakness of the place about to be attacked, 
 and forgetting the rivalship subsisting between them, and 
 thinking only how to save their countrymen, they immedi- 
 ately dispatched a messenger to give the party notice of 
 ihe aysault meditated ; they at the same time sent another 
 messenger to one of their own posts, desiring that instant 
 succour might be sent to that belonging to the Hudson's Bay 
 Company, which the Indians were about to plunder. The 
 detachment arrived before the attack commenced, and the 
 Indians were repulsed ; but had it not been for the timely 
 assistance their rivals had afforded, the Hudson's Bay people 
 were lully persuaded that they must have fallen victims to 
 the fury of the Indians. 
 
 This signal piece of service was not undervalued or far 
 gotten by those who had been saved ; and as the North-west 
 Company was so much stronger, and on so much better 
 terms with the Indians in this part of the country than 
 its rivals, it now evidently appeared to be the interest of tlie 
 latter to have their posts established as near its own as pos- 
 sible. Tliis is accordingly done for their mutual safety, and 
 the two companies are now on the most friendly terms, and 
 continue to carry on their trade close to each other. 
 
 About two thousand men are employed by the North-west 
 Company in their posts in the upper country. Those who 
 are stationed at the remote trading posts lead a very savage 
 iife, but little better indeed than that of Indians : some of 
 them remain far up in the country for four or five years 
 together, Tiie head clerk or principal agent generally 
 marries an Indian girl, the daughter of some eminent chic^^l^ 
 
348 
 
 by which he gains in a peculiar manner the affections of the 
 whole tribe, a matter of great importance. These marriages, 
 as may be supposed, are not considered as very binding by 
 the husband ; but that is nothing in the opinion of an Indian 
 chief, who readily influences his sister or daughter to the 
 match. 
 
 Besides the furs and pelts conveyed down to Montreal 
 from the north-western parts of the continent, by means of 
 the Utawas River, there are larger quantities also brought 
 there across the lakes, and down the River St. Lawrence. 
 These are collected at the various towns and posts along the 
 Lakes Huron, Erie, and Ontario, where the trade is open to 
 all parties, the several posts being protected by regular 
 troops, at the expense of the government. Added likewise 
 to what are thus collected by the agents of the company, and 
 of private merchants, there are considerable quantities 
 brought down to Montreal for sale by traders, on their own 
 account. Some of these traders come from parts as remote 
 as the Illinois Country, bordering on the Mississippi. They 
 ascend the Mississippi as far as Onisconsing River, and from 
 ihat by a portage of three miles get upon Fox River, which 
 falls into Lake Michigan. In the fall of the year these two 
 livers overflow, and it is then sometimes practicable to pass 
 in a light canoe from one river to the other, without any 
 portage whatsoever. From Lake Michigan they get upon 
 Lake Huron, afterwards upon Lake Erie, and so on to the 
 St. Lawrence. Before the month of September is over, the 
 furs are all brought down to Montreal ; as they arrive they 
 are immediately shipped, and the vessels dispatched in Oc- 
 tober, beyond which month it would be dangerous for them 
 t© remain in the river on account of the setting in of winter. 
 
 The Indians generally go in large parties to hunt bears, 
 and on coming to the place where they suppose these animals 
 are lurking, they form themselves into a large circle, and as 
 they advance endeavour to rouse them. Dogs of a large 
 »ize are chosen for bear-hunting ; those most generally pre- 
 
TO THE POLAR SKA. Si9 
 
 ferred seem to be of a breed between the blood-hound and the 
 mastiff; they will follow the scent of the bear, as indeed 
 most field dogs will, but their chief use is to keep the bear 
 at bay when wounded, or to follow him if he attempt to make 
 off whilst the hunter is reloading his gun. Bears will never 
 attempt to attack a man or a dog while they can make their 
 escape, but once woimded, or closely hemmed in, they will 
 fight most furiously. The young ones, at sight of a dog, 
 generally take to a tree ; but the old ones, as if conscious of 
 their ability to fight a dog, and at the same time that they 
 cannot fail of becoming the prey of the hunter if they ascend 
 a tree, never do so, unless indeed they see a hunter coming 
 towards them on horseback, a sight which terrifies them 
 greatly. " It is seldom that the white hunters muster together 
 in sufficient numbers to pursue their game as the Indians, 
 says a writer who accompanied a hunting party, but when- 
 ever they have men enough to divide themselves so, they 
 always do it. We proceeded in this manner at Point Abineau, 
 where three or four men are amply sufficient to hem in a 
 bear between the water and the main land. The point was 
 a very favourable place for hunting this year, for the bears, 
 intent upon emigrating to the south, used, on coming down 
 from the upper country, to advance to the extreme end of 
 the point, as if desirous of getting as near as possible by land 
 to the opposite side of the lake, and scarcely a morning came 
 but what one or two of them were found upon it. An ex- 
 perienced hunter can at once discern the track of a bear, 
 deer, or any other large animal, in the woods, and can tell 
 with no small degree of precision how long a time before it 
 was that the animal passed that way. On coming to a long 
 valley, between two of the sand hills on the point, a place 
 through which the bears generally passed in going towards 
 the water, the hunters whom I accompanied at once told 
 how many bears had come down from the upper country the 
 preceding night, and also how many of them were cubs. To 
 the ♦'y^ ^*f ^ common observer the track of these animals 
 
850 FtlANKLIN'S JOURNEY 
 
 amongst the leaves is wholly imperceptible; indeed, in mar.y 
 Instances, even after the hunters had pointed thein out to 
 me, I could barely perceive the prints of their feet on the 
 closest inspection ; yet the hunters, on coming up to the 
 place, saw these marks with a glance of the eye. 
 
 After killing a bear, the first care of the hunters is to strip 
 him of his skin. This business is performed by them in a 
 very few minutes, as they always carry knives about them 
 particularly suited for the purpose ; aftenvards the carcase is 
 cut up, an operation in which the tomahawk, an instrument 
 that they mostly carry with them also, is particularly useful. 
 The choicest parts of the animal are then selected and carried 
 home, and the rest left in the woods. These Indians hold 
 the paws of the bear in great estimation ; stewed with young 
 puppies, they are served up at all their principal feasts. On 
 killing the animal, the paws are gashed with a knife, and 
 afterwards hung over a fire, amidst the smoke, to dry. The 
 skins of the bears are applied to numberless uses, in the 
 country, by the farmers, who set no small value upon them. 
 They are commonly cured by being spread upon a wall or 
 between two trees, before the sun, and in that position 
 scraped with a knife, or piece of iron, daily, which brings 
 out the grease or oil, a veiy considerable quantity of which 
 oozes from them. Racoon and deer skins, &c. are cured in 
 a similar manner. The Indians have a method of dressing 
 these difi'erent skins vdth the hair on, and of rendering them 
 at the same time as pliable as a piece of cloth ; this is prin- 
 cipally effected by rubbing the skins with the hand, in the 
 smoke of a wood fire. 
 
 Lake Erie is of an elliptical form ; in length about three 
 hundred miles, and in breadth, at the widest part about 
 ninety. The depth of water in this lake is not more than 
 twenty fathoms, and in calm weather vessels may securely 
 ride at anchor in any part of it ; but when stormy, the an- 
 chorage in an open part of the lake is not safe, the sands at 
 bottom not being firm, and the anchors apt therefore to lose 
 
TO THE FOLAR SEA. 351 
 
 their hold. Whenever there is a gale of wind the waters 
 immediately become turbid, owing to the quantity of yellow 
 sand that is washed up from the bottom of the lake ; in calm 
 weather the water is clear, and of a deep greenish colour. 
 ITie northern shore of the lake is very rocky, as likewise 
 are the shores of the islands, of which there are several clus- 
 ters towards the western extremity of the lake 5 but along 
 most parts of the southern shore is a fine gravelly beach. 
 The height of the land bordering on the lake is very unequal ; 
 in some places long ranges of steep mountains rise from the 
 very edge of the water ; in others the shores are so flat and 
 so low, that when the lake is raised a little above its usual 
 level, in consequence of a strong gale of wind setting in 
 towards the shore, the country is deluged for miles." 
 
 A young gentleman, who was sent in a bateau with dis- 
 patches across the lake, not long previous to the writing this 
 account, perished, with several of his party, owing to an 
 inundation of this sort that look place on a low part of the 
 shore. It must here be observed, that when you navigate 
 the lake in a bateau, it is customary to keep as close as pos- 
 sible to the land ; and when there is any danger of a stoim, 
 you run the vessel on shore, which may be done with safety, 
 as the bottom of it is perfectly flat The young gentleman 
 alluded to was coasting along, when a violent storm suddenly 
 arose. The bateau was instantaneously turned towards the 
 shore; unfortunately, however, in running her upon the 
 beach some mismanagement took place, and she overset. 
 The waves had already begun to break in upon the shore with 
 prodigious impetuosity ; each one of them rolled farther in 
 thaa the preceding one ; the party took alarm, and instead of 
 making as strenuous exertions as it was supposed they might 
 have made, to right the bateau, they took a few necessaries 
 out of her, and attempted to save themselves by flight ; but so 
 rapidly did the water flow after them, in consequence of the 
 increasmg storm, that before they could proceed far enough 
 up the country to gain a place of safety, they were all over- 
 
S52 franklin's journey 
 
 'whelmed by it, two alone excepted, who had the presence of 
 mind and ability to climb a lofty tree. To the very great 
 irregularity of the height of the lands on both sides of it, is 
 attributed the frequency of storms on Lake Erie. The shores 
 of Lake Ontario are lower and more uniform than those of 
 any of the other lakes ; and that lake is the most tranquil of 
 any, as has already been noticed. 
 
 There is a great deficiency of good harbours along the 
 shores of this Lake, On its northern side there are but two 
 places which afford shelter to vessels drawing more than seven 
 feet water, namely Long Point and Point Abineau ; and these 
 only afford a partial shelter. If the wind should shift to the 
 southward whilst vessels happen to be lying under them, they 
 are thereby exposed to all the dangers of a rocky lee shore. 
 On the southern shore, the first harbour you come to in going 
 from Fort Erie, is that of Presqu' Isle. Vessels drawing eight 
 feet water may there ride in perfect safety ; but it is a matter 
 of no small difficulty to get into the harbour, owing to a long 
 sand bar which extends across the mouth of it. Presqu' Isle 
 is situated at the distance of about sixty miles from Fort Erie. 
 Beyond this, nearly midway between the eastern and western 
 extremities of the lake, there is another harbour, capable of 
 containing small vessels, at the mouth of Cayahega River, 
 and another at the mouth of Sandusky Kiver, which falls 
 into the lake within the north and western territory of the 
 States. It is very seldom that any of these harbours are 
 made use of by the British ships ; they, indeed, trade almost 
 solely between Fort Erie and Detroit River : and when in 
 prosecuting their voyages they chance to meet with contraiy 
 winds, against which they cannot make head, they for the 
 most part return to Fort Erie, if bound to Detroit River ; 
 or to some of the bays amidst the clusters of islands situated 
 towards the western territory of the lake. It very often hap- 
 pens that vesssels, even after they have got close under these 
 islands, the nearest of which is not less than two hundred 
 and forty miles from Fort Erie, are driven back by storms 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 353 
 
 the whole way to that fort, and it is not without very great 
 difficulty that they can keep then- station. It is seldom that 
 vessels bound from Fort Erie to any place on Detroit Riv^er, 
 accomplish their voyage without stopping amongst these 
 islands ; for the same wind favourable for carrying them 
 from the eastern to the western extremity of the lake wall 
 not waft them up the river. The river runs nearly in a south- 
 west direction ; its current is very strong ; and unless the 
 wind blows fresh, and nearly in the opposite direction to it, 
 you cannot proceed. The navigation of Lake Eiie in general 
 is very uncertain ; and passengers that cross it in any of the 
 king's or principal merchant vessels, axe not oidy called upon 
 to pay double the sum for their passage, demanded for that 
 across Lake Ontario, but anchorage money besides, that is, a 
 certain sum per diem as long as the vessel remains wind 
 bound in anchor at any harbour. The anchorage money is 
 about three dollars per day for each cabin passenger. 
 
 The islands at the western end of the lake, which are of 
 various sizes, lie very close to each other, and the scenery 
 amongst them is very pleasing. The largest of them are not 
 more than fourteen miles in circumference, and many would 
 scarcely be found to admeasure as many yards round. They 
 are all covered with wood of some kind or other, even to the 
 very smallest. The larger islands produce a variety of fine 
 timber, amongst which are found oaks, hiccory trees, and red 
 cedars ; the latter grow to a much larger size than in any 
 part of the neighbouring country, and they are sent for even 
 from the British settlements on Detroit River, forty miles 
 distant. None of these islands are much elevated above th« 
 lake, nor are they diversified with any rising grounds ; most 
 of them, indeed, are as flat as if they had been overflowed 
 with water, and in the interior parts of some of the largest 
 of them there are extensive ponds and marshes. ITie fine 
 timber which these islands produce, indicates that the soil 
 »lnust be uncommonly fertile. Here are found in great num 
 
 c 15 ZJ 
 
354 franklin's journey 
 
 bers, amongst the woods, racoons and squirrels; bears are 
 also at times found upon some of the islands during the 
 winter season, when the lake is frozen between the main 
 land and the islands ; but they do not remain continually, as 
 the other animals do. All the islands are dreadfully infested 
 with serpents, and on some of them rattlesnakes are so nu- 
 merous, that in the height of summer it is really dangerous 
 to land. 
 
 There are two kinds of rattlesnakes found in this part of 
 the country, — one of these rattlesnakes is of a deep brown 
 colour, clouded with yellow, and is seldom met with more 
 than thirty inches in leng'th. It usually frequents marshes 
 and low meadows, where it does great mischief : amongst 
 cattle, which it bites mostly in the lips as they are grazing 
 The other sort is of a greenish yellow colour, clouded with 
 brown, and attains nearly twice the size of the other* It is 
 most commonly found between three and four feet in length, 
 and as thick as the wrist of a large man. The rattlesnake is 
 much thicker in proportion to its length than any other 
 snake, and it is thickest in the middle of the body, which ap- 
 proaches somewhat to a triangular form, the belly being flat, 
 and the back bone rising higher than any other part of the 
 animal. The rattle with which this serpent is provided, is 
 at the end of the tail ; it is usually about half an inch in 
 breadth, one quarter of an inch in thickness, and each joint 
 about half an incli long. The joint consists of a number of 
 little cases of a dry horny substance, inclosed one within 
 another, and not only the outermost of these little cases ar- 
 ticulates with the outermost case of the contiguous joint, but 
 each case, even to the smallest one of all, at the inside, is 
 connected by a sort of joint with the corresponding case in 
 the next joint of the rattle. The little cases or shells lie 
 very loosely within one another, and the noise proceeds from 
 their dry and hard coats striking one against the other. It 
 is said that the animal gains a fresh joint in its rattle every 
 
TO THE POLAR SFA 855 
 
 year ; this, however, is doubted, for the largest snakes are 
 frequently found to have the fewest joints to their rattles. 
 
 A medical gentleman in the neighbourhood of Newmarket, 
 behind the Blue Mountains in Virginia, had a rattle in his 
 possession, which contained no less than thirty- two joints ; 
 yet the snake from which it was taken scarcely admeasured 
 five feet ; rattlesnakes, however, of the same kind, and in 
 the same part of the country, have been found of a greater 
 length with not more than ten rattles. One of these snakes, 
 killed on Bass Island, in Lake Erie, had no more tha» four 
 joints in its rattle, and yet was nearly four feet long. 
 
 The skin of the rattlesnake, when the animal is wounded, 
 or otherwise enraged, exhibits a variety of beautiful tints, 
 never seen at any other time. It is not with the teeth which 
 the rattlesnake uses for ordinary purposes that it strikes its 
 enemy, but with two long crooked fangs in the upper jaw, 
 which point down the throat, When about to use these 
 fangs, it rears itself up as much as possible, throws back its 
 head, drops its under jaw, and springing forward upon its 
 tail, endeavours to hook itself as it were upon its enemy. 
 In order to raise itself on its tail, it coils itself up previously 
 in a spiral line, with the head in the middle. It cannot spring 
 farther forward than about half its own length. 
 
 The flesh of the rattlesnake is as white as the most delicate 
 fish, and is much esteemed by those who are not prevented 
 from tasting it oy prejudice. The soup made from it is said 
 to be delicious, and very nourishing. 
 
 The exuviae of these snakes, is in the opinion of the 
 country people of Upper Canada, very efficacious in the cure 
 of the rheumatism, when laid over the part afflicted, and 
 fastened down with a bandage. The body of the rattlesnake 
 dried to a cinder over the fire, and then finely pulverised, 
 and infused in a certain portion of brandy, is also said to be 
 a never failing remedy against that disorder. Hie liquor is 
 taken inwardly, in the quantity of a wine glass full at once. 
 
356 IRAN KLIN'S JOURNEY 
 
 about three times a day. No effect, more than from taking 
 plain brandy, is perceived from taking this medicine on the 
 first day, but at the end of the second day the body of the 
 patient becomes suffused with a cold sweat, every one of his 
 joints grow painful, and his limbs become feeble, and scarcely 
 able to support him ; he grows worse and worse for a day or 
 two ; but persevering in the use of the medicine for a few 
 daysi he gradually loses his pains, and recovers his wontea 
 strength of body. 
 
 Many different kinds of serpents besides rattlesnakes are 
 found on these islands in Lake Erie. Mr. Carver tells of a 
 serpent that is peculiar to these islands, called the hissing 
 snake : " It is," says he, " of the small speckled kind, and 
 about eighteen inches long. When any thing approaches it, 
 it flattens itself in a moment, and its spots, which are of 
 various dyes, become visibly brighter through rage ; at the 
 same time it blows from its mouth with great force a. subtile 
 wind that is reported to be of a nauseous smell, and if drawn 
 in with the breath of the unwary traveller, will infallibly 
 bring on a decline, that in a few months must prove mortal, 
 there being no remedy yet discovered which can counteract 
 its baneful influence." Were a traveller to believe all the 
 stories respecting snakes that are current in the country, he 
 must believe that there is such a snake as the whip snake, 
 which, it is said, pursues cattle through the woods and mea- 
 dows, lashing them with its tail, till overcome with the 
 fatigue of running they drop breathless to the ground, when 
 It preys upon their flesh ; he must also believe that there is 
 such a snake as the hoop snake, which has the power of fix- 
 ing its tail firmly in a certain cavity inside of its mouth, and 
 of rolling itself forward like a hoop or wheel, with such won- 
 derful velocity that neither man nor beast can possibly escape 
 from its devouring jaws. 
 
 The ponds and marshes in the interior parts of these 
 islcvuds abound with ducks and other wild fowl, and the shores 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 357 
 
 swarm with gulls, A few small birds are f<yund in the woods ; 
 none amongst them are remarkable either for their song or 
 plumage. 
 
 On the east side of Detroit River is the town of Maiden, 
 where there are extensive ranges of store^houses, for the re- 
 ception of presents yearly made by the British government 
 to the Indians in this part of the country, in which several 
 clerks are kept constantly employed. The following account 
 is given by one engaged on the occasion. A number of 
 chiefs of different tribes assembled at the place appointed by 
 the head of the department in this quarter, and gave each 
 a bundle of little bits of cedar wood, about the thickness o 
 a small pocket book pencil, to remind him c)f the exact num- 
 ber of individuals in each tribe that expected to share the 
 bounty of their great Father. The sticks in these bundles 
 were of different lengths, the longest denoted the mimber of 
 warriors in the tribe, the next in size the number of women, 
 and the smallest the number of children. On receiving them 
 he handed them over to his clerks, who made a memorandum 
 in their books of the contents of each bundle, and of the 
 persons that gave them, in order to prepare the presents ac- 
 cordingly. The day fixed upon for the delivery of the pre- 
 sents was bright and fair, and being in every respect favour- 
 able for the purpose, the clerks began to make the necessary 
 arrangements accordingly. 
 
 A number of large stakes were first fixed down in different 
 parts of the lawn, to each of which was attached a label, with 
 the name of the tribe, and the number of persons in it who 
 were to be provided for ; then were brought out from the 
 stores several bales of thick blankets, of blue, scarlet, and, 
 brown cloth, and of coarse figured cottons, together with 
 large rolls of tobacco, guns, flints, powder, balls, shot, case- 
 knives, ivoiy and horn combs, looking-glasses, pipe-toma- 
 hawks, hatchets, scissars, needles, vermillion in bags, copper 
 and iron pots and kettles, the whole valued at about 500/. 
 
358 franklin's journey 
 
 sterling. The bales of goods being opened, the blankets, 
 cloths, and cottons, were cut into small pieces, each sufficient 
 to make for one person a wrapper, shirt, a pair of leggings, 
 or wnatever else it was intended for ; and the portions of the 
 different articles intended for each tribe were thrown together 
 m a heap, at the bottom of the stake which bore its name. 
 This business took up several hours, as there were no less 
 than four hundred and twenty Indians to be served. No 
 liquor, nor any silver ornaments, except to favourite chiefs 
 in private, are ever given on the part of government to the 
 Indians, notwithstanding they are so fond of both ; and a 
 trader who attempts to give these articles to them in ex- 
 change for the presents they have received from government, 
 or, indeed, who takes from them on any conditions, their 
 presents, is liable to a very heavy penalty for every such act, 
 by the laws of the province. 
 
 The presents having been all prepared, the chiefs were 
 ordered to assemble their warriors, who were loitering about 
 the grounds at the outside of the lawn. In a few minutes 
 they all came, and having been drawn up in a large circle, 
 a speech was made on the occasion, without which ceremony 
 iio business, according to Indian custom, is ever transacted. 
 In this they are told, " that their great and good Father, who 
 lived on the opposite side of the big lake (meaning thereby 
 the king) was ever attentive to the happiness of all his faith- 
 ful people ; and that, with his accustomed bounty, he had 
 sent the guns, the hatchets, and the ammunition for the young 
 men, and the clothing for the aged, women, and children ; 
 that he hoped the young men would have no occasion to 
 employ their weapons in fighting against enemies, but merely 
 in hunting ; and that he recommended it to them to be at- 
 tentive to the old, and to share bountifully with them what 
 they gained by the chase ; that he trusted the great spirit 
 would give them bright suns and clear skies, and a favourable 
 season for hunting ; and that when another year should pass 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 359 
 
 over, if he continued to find them good children, he would 
 not fail to renew his bounties, by sending them more presents 
 from across the big lake. 
 
 This speech was delivered in English, but interpreters at- 
 tended, who repeated it to the different tribes in their re* 
 spective languages, paragraph by paragraph, at the end ol 
 every one of which the Indians signified their satisfaction by 
 a loud coarse exclamation of " Hoah ! Hoah !" The speech 
 ended, the chiefs were called forward, and their several 
 heaps were shewn to them, and committed to their care* 
 They received them with thanks, and beckoning to their 
 warriors, a number of young men quickly started from the 
 crowd, and in less than three minutes the presents were con- 
 veyed from the lawn, and laden on board the canoes in wait- 
 ing to convey them away. The utmost regularity and pro- 
 priety was manifested on this occasion in the behaviour oi 
 every Indian ; there was not the smallest wmngling amongst 
 them about their presents ; nor was the least spark of jea 
 lousy observable in any one tribe about what the other had 
 received ; each one took up the heap allotted to it, and de- 
 parted without speaking a word. 
 
 The presents delivered to the Indians, together with the 
 salaries of the officers in the Indian department, are com- 
 puted to cost the crown about 100,000/. sterling, on an aver- 
 age, per annum. When we first gained possession of Canada, 
 the expence of the presents was much greater, as the Indians 
 were then more numerous, and as it was also found necessary 
 to bestow upon them, individually, much larger presents than 
 are now given, in order to overcome the violent prejudices 
 which had been instilled into their minds by the French. 
 These prejudices having happily been removed, and the ut- 
 most harmony having been established between them and the- 
 people on the frontiers, presents of a less value even than 
 what are now distributed amongst them, would perhaps be 
 found sufficient to keep up the good understanding which now 
 subsists j it could not, however, be deemed a very advisable 
 
$60 fhaxklin's journky 
 
 measure to curtail ihem, as loiig as a possibility remained tha 
 the loss of their friendship might be incurred thereby. 
 
 Acceptable presents are generally found efficacious in con- 
 ciliating the affections of any uncivilized nation ; they have 
 very great influence over the minds of the Indians ; but to 
 X)BCiliate their affections to the utmost, presents alone are 
 not sufficient ; you must appear to have their interest at heart 
 in every respect ; you must associate with them ; you must 
 treat them as men that are your equals ; and in som« mea- 
 sure, even adopt their native manners. 
 
 ' In general, the skin of the Indians is of a copper cast, but 
 a most wonderful difference of colour is observable amongst 
 them ; some, in whose veins there is no reason to think that 
 any other than Indian blood flows, not having darker com 
 plexions than natives of the south of France or of Spain, 
 whilst others, on the contrary, are nearly as black as negroes 
 
 J Many persons, whose long residence amongst the Indians 
 ought to have made them competent judges of the matter 
 have been of opinion, that their natural colour does not var\ 
 from ours ; and that the darkness of their complexion arise* 
 wholly from their anointing themselves so frequently with 
 unctuous substances, and from their exposing themselves so 
 much to the smoke. But although it is certain that they 
 think a dark complexion very becoming ; that they take great 
 pains^from their earliest age to acquire such an one ; and that 
 many of them do, in process of time, contrive to vary their 
 original colour very considerably ; although it is certain like 
 wise, that when first bom their colour differs but little from 
 ours ; yet it appears evident to me, that the greater part of 
 them are indf3bted for their different hues to nature alone. 
 The writer has been induced to form this opinion from the 
 consideration, that those children which are bom of pa 
 rents of a dark colour are almost universally of the same 
 aark cast as those from whom they sprang. Nekig, that is 
 ihe Little Otter, an Ottaway chief of great notoriety, whose 
 village is on Detroit River, has a complexion that diflfers 
 
TO THE POLAR S£A« 361 
 
 but little from that of an African, and his little boys, who are 
 the very image of the father, are just as black as himself. 
 With regard to Indian children being white on their first 
 coming into the world, it ought by no means to be concluded 
 from thence, that they would remain so if their mothei*s did 
 not bedaub them with grease, herbs, &c. as it is well known 
 that negro children are not perfectly black when born, nor 
 indeed for many months afterwards, but that they acquire 
 their jetty hue gradually, on being exposed to the air and 
 sun, just as in the vegetable world the tender blade, on 
 first peeping above ground, turns from a white to a pale 
 greenish colour, and afterwards to deeper green. 
 
 Though the Mississaguis, who live about Lake Ontario, 
 are of a much darker cast than any other tribe of Indians, 
 yet the diflferent shades of complexion observable amongst 
 the Indians are not so much confined to particular tribes as 
 to particular families ; for even amongst the Mississaguis 
 several men were comparatively of a very light colour. T\x& 
 Creeks, Cherokees, and other southern Indians, have a red^ 
 der tinge, and more warmth of colouring in it than that of 
 the Indians in the neighbourhood of the lakes. 
 
 Amongst the female Indians in general, there is a much 
 ^greater sameness of colour than amongst the men. The In^ 
 dians universally have long, straight, black, coarse hair, and 
 black eyes, rather small than full sized ; they have, in generaJ, 
 jalso, high prominent cheek bones, and sharp small noses, 
 rather inclining to an aquiline shape ; they have good teeth, 
 and their breath, in general, is as sweet as that of a human 
 being can be. The men are for the most part very well 
 made, it is a most rare circumstance to meet with a deformed 
 person amongst them; they are remarkably straight, have 
 full open chests, their walk is firm and erect, and many 
 amongst them have really a dignified deportment. Very fcM 
 of them are under the middle stature, and none of them ever 
 become very fat or corpulent. You may occasionally see 
 amongst them stout robust men, closely put together, but in 
 
 a 16 3 a 
 
862 franklin's journey 
 
 geuerol they are but slightly made. Their legs, arms, and 
 hands, are for the most part, extremely well shaped ; and 
 very many amongst them would be deemed handsome men 
 in any country in the world. 
 
 The women, on the contrary, are mostly under the middle 
 size, and have higher cheek bones, and rounder faces than 
 the men. They have very ungraceful carriages ; walk with 
 their toes turned considerably inwards, and with a shuffling 
 gait ; and as they advance in years they grow remarkably 
 fat and coarse. An Indian woman at the age of thirty, 
 her eyes are sunk, her forehead wrinkled, her skin loose and 
 shrivelled, and her whole person, in short, forbidding ; yet, 
 when young, their faces and persons are really pleasing, not 
 to say sometimes very captivating. One could hardly 
 imagine, without witnessing it, that a few years could pos- 
 sibly make, such an alteration as it does in their persons. 
 This sudden change is chiefly owing to the dmdgery im- 
 posed on them by the men after a certain age ; to their ex- 
 posing themselves so much to the burning rays of the sun ; 
 sitting so continually in the smoke of wood fires; and, 
 ibove all, to the general custom of prostituting themselves 
 at a very early aget 
 
 Though the Indians are profusely furnished with hair on 
 their heads, yet on none of the other parts of the body, usually 
 covered with it, is the smallest sign of hair visible, except, 
 ndeed, on the chins of old men, where a few slender strag- 
 gling hairs are sometimes seen, not different from what may 
 be occasionally seen on women of a certain age in Europe. 
 Many persons have supposed that the Indians have been 
 created without hair on those parts of the body where it 
 appears wanting; others, on the contrary, are of opinion, 
 that nature has not been less bountiful to them than to us, 
 and that this apparent deficiency of hair is wholly owing to 
 their plucking it out themselves by be roots, as soon as it 
 appears above the skin. It is well known, indeed, that the 
 Indians have a great dislike to hair, and that such of the 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. ^ 368 
 
 men as are ambitious of appearing gayer than the rest, 
 pluck it not only from their eye-brows, and eye-lashes, but 
 also from every part of the head, except one spot on the back 
 part of the crown, where they lea^e a long lock. 
 
 To pluck out their hair, all such as have any connection 
 with the traders make use of a pliable worm, formed of 
 flattened brass wire. This instrument is closely applied 
 in its open state, to the surface of the bodyi where the hair 
 grows, it is then compressed by the finger and thumb ; a 
 great number of hairs are caught at once between the spiral 
 evolutions of the wire, and by a sudden twitch they are all 
 drawn out by the roots^ An old squaw, with one of these 
 instruments, would deprive you of your beard in a very few 
 minutes, and a slight application of the worm two or three 
 limes in the year, would be sufficient to keep your chin 
 smooth ever afterwards. A very great number of the white 
 people, in the neighbourhood of Maiden and Detroit, from 
 having submitted to this operation, appear at first sight as 
 little indebted to nature for beards as the Indians. The 
 operation is painful, but it is soon over, and when one con- 
 siders how much time and trouble is saved, and ease gained 
 by it in the end, it is only surprising that more people do not 
 summon up resolution, and patiently submit to iu 
 
 The long lock of hair on the top of the head, with the 
 skin on which it grows, constitutes the true scalp ; and in 
 scalping a person that has a full head of hair, an experi- 
 enced warrior never thinks of taking off more of the skin 
 than a bit of about the size of a crown piece, from the part 
 of the head where this lock is usually left. They ornament 
 this solitary lock of hair with beads, silver trinkets, &c. and 
 on grand occasions with feathers. The women do not 
 phick any of the hair from off their heads, and pride them- 
 selves with having it as long as possible. They commonly 
 wear it neatly plaited up behind, and divided in front in the 
 middle of the forehead. When they wish to appear finer 
 than usual, they paint the small part of the skin, which ap- 
 
364 franklin's journey 
 
 I>ears on the separation of the hair, with a streak of vei» 
 milion ; when neatly done, it looks extremely well, and forms 
 a pleasing contrast to the jetty black of their hair. 
 
 Tlie Indians, who have any dealings with the English 
 or American traders, and all of them have that live in the 
 neighbourhood of the great lakes at the north-west, have 
 totally laid aside the use of furs and skins in their dress, ex- 
 cept for their shoes or moccasins, and sometimes for their 
 leggings, ais they find they can exchange them to advantage 
 for blankets and woollen cloths, &c. which they consider 
 likewise as much more agreeable and commodious materials 
 for wearing appareb The moccasin is made of the skin of 
 the deer, elk, or buffalo, which is commonly dressed without 
 the hair, and rendered of a deep brown colour by being ex- 
 posed to the smoke of a wood fire. It is formed of a single 
 piece of leather, with a seam from the top to the instep, and 
 another behind, similar to that in a common shoe ; by means 
 of a thong, it is fastened round the instep, just Under the 
 unkle-bone, and is thus made to sit very closely to the foot. 
 Hound that part where the foot is put in, a flap of the depth 
 of an inch or two is left, which hangs loosely down over the 
 string by which the moccasin is fastened ; and this flap, as 
 also the seam, are tastefully ornamented with porcupine 
 quills and beads ; the flap is edged with tin or copper tags 
 filled with scarlet hair, if the moccasin be intended for a 
 man, and with ribbands if for a woman. An Ornamental 
 moccasin of this sort is only worn in dress, as the ornaments 
 are ejipensive and the leather soon wears out ; one of plain 
 leather answers for ordinary use. Many of the white people 
 on the Indian frontiers weai* this kind of shoe, but a person 
 not accustomed to walk in it, or to walk barefoot, cannot 
 wear it abroad on a rough road without great inconvenience, 
 as every unevenness of surface is felt through the leather, 
 which is soft and pliable : in a house it is the most agree- 
 able sort of shoe that can be imagined j the Indians wear it 
 universally. 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 969 
 
 Above the moccasin all the Indians wear what are called 
 leggings, which reach from the instep to the middle of the 
 thigh. They are commonly made of blue or soarlet cloth, 
 and are formed so as to sit close to the limbs, like the mo- 
 dern pantaloons ; but the edg^s of the doth annexed to the 
 scam, instead of being turned in, are left on the outside, 
 and are ornamented with beads, ribbands, &c. when the 
 leggings are intended for dress. Many of the young war- 
 riors are so desirous that their leggings should fit them 
 neatly, that they make the squaws, who are the tailors, and 
 really very good ones, sow them tight on their limbs, so 
 that they cannot be taken off, and they continue to wear 
 them constantly till they are reduced to rags. The leggings 
 are kept up by means of two strings, one on the outside of 
 each thigh, which are fastened to a third, that is tied round 
 the waist. 
 
 They also wear round the waist another string, from 
 which are suspended two little aprons, somewhat more than 
 a foot square, one hanging down before and the other be- 
 hind, and under these a piece of cloth, drawn close up to 
 the body between the legs, forming a sort of truss, llic 
 aprons and this piece of cloth, which are all fastened toge- 
 ther, are called the breech cloth. The utmost ingenuity of 
 the squaws is exerted in adorning the little aprons with 
 beads, ribbands, &c. 
 
 The moccasins, leggings, and breech cloth constitute the 
 whole of the dress which they wear when they enter upon a 
 campaign, except indeed it be a girdle, from which hangs 
 their tobacco pouch and scalping knife, &c. ; nor do they 
 wear any thing more when the weather is very warm ; but 
 when it is cool, or when they dress themselves to visit their 
 friends, they put on a short shirt, loose at the neck and 
 wrists, generally made of coarse figured cotton or calico of 
 some gaudy pattern, not unlike what would be used for 
 window or bed curtains at a common mn in England. Over 
 
366 franklin's journey 
 
 the sliirt they wear either a hlanket or a large piece of broad 
 cloth, or else a loose coat made somewhat similar to e 
 common riding frock ; a blanket is more commonly worn 
 than any thing else. They tie one end of it round their 
 waist with a girdle, and then drawing it over their shoulders, 
 either fasten it across their breasts with a skewer, or hold 
 the comers of it together in the left hand. One would 
 imagine, that this last mode of wearing it could not but be 
 highly inconvenient to them, as it must deprive them in a 
 great measure of the use of one hand ; yet it is the mode in 
 which it is commonly worn, even when they are shooting in 
 the woods ; they generally, however keep the right arm dis- 
 engaged when they carry a gun, and draw the blanket ovei 
 the left shoulder. 
 
 The dress of the women differs but very little from tho 
 of the men. They wear moccasins, leggings, and loose 
 short shirts, and like them they throw over .their shoulders, 
 occasionally, a blanket or piece of broad cloth, but most 
 generally the latter ; they do not tie it round their waist 
 however, but suffer it to hang down so as to hide their legs ; 
 instead also of the breech cloth, they wear a piece of cloth 
 folded closely round their middle, which reaches from the 
 V. aist to the knees. Dark blue or green cloths in general 
 are preferred to those of any other colour ; a few of the men 
 are fond of wearing scarlet. 
 
 'Die women in warm weather appear in the villages vrith- 
 out any other covering above their waists than these shirts, 
 or shifts, as they may be called, though they differ in no 
 respect from the shirts of the men ; they usually, however, 
 fasten them with a brooch round the neck. In full dress 
 they also appear in these shirts, but then they are covered 
 entirely over with silver brooches, about the size of a six- 
 penny piece. In full dress they likewise fasten pieces of 
 ribbands of various colours to their hair behind, which are 
 suffered to hang down to their very heels. A young squaw. 
 
TO THE POLAR S^A. 867 
 
 that has been a favourite with the men, will come forth at a 
 dance with upwards of five guineas worth of ribbands stream- 
 ing from her hair. 
 
 On their wrists the women wear silver bracelets when 
 they can procure them ; they also wear silver ear -rings ; 
 whe latter are in general of a very small size ; but it is not 
 merely one pair which they wear, but several. To admit 
 them, they bore a number of holes in their ears, sometimes 
 entirely round the edges. The men wear ear-rings like- 
 wise, but of a sort totally different from those worn by the 
 women ; they mostly consist of round flat thin pieces of 
 silver, about the size of a dollar, perforated with holes in 
 different patterns ; others, however, equally large, are made 
 in a triangular form. Some of the tribes are very select in 
 the choice of the pattern, and will not wear any but the one 
 sort of pendants. Instead of boring their ears, the men slit 
 them along the outward edge from t«p to bottom, and as 
 soon as the gash is healed, hang heavy weights to them in 
 order to stretch the rim thus separated as low down as pos- 
 sible. Some of them are so successful in this operation, 
 that they contiive to draw the rims of the ears in form of a 
 bow, down to their very shoulders, and their large ear-rings 
 hang dangling on their breasts. To prevent the rim thus 
 extended from breaking, they bind it with brass wire ; how- 
 ever, there is not one in six that has his ears perfect ; the 
 least touch, indeed, is sufficient to break the skin, and it 
 would be wonderful if they were able to preserve it entire, 
 engaged so often as they are in drunken quarrels, and so 
 often liable to be entangled in thickets whilst pursuing their 
 i^ame. 
 
 Some of the men wear pendants in their noses, but these 
 are not so common as ear-rings. The chiefs and principal 
 warriors wear breast-plates, consisting of large pieces of 
 silver, sea shells, or the like. Silver gorgets, such as are 
 usually worn by officers, please them extremely, and to 
 favourite chiefs they are given out, amongst other presentSt 
 
308 franklin's journey 
 
 on the part of government. Another sort of ornament is 
 Ukewise worn by the men, consisting of a large silver clasp 
 jr bracelet, to which is attached a bunch of hair dyed of a 
 scarlet colour, usually taken from the knee of a buffalo. This 
 is worn on the narrow part of the arm above the elbow, and 
 it is deemed very ornamental, and also a badge of honour, 
 for no person wears it that has not distinguished himself in 
 the field. Silver ornaments are universally preferred to those 
 of any other metal. 
 
 The Indians not only paint themselves when they go to 
 war, but likewise when they wish to appear full dresset 
 Red and black are their favourite colours, and they dau) 
 themselves in the most fantastic manner. Some have theii 
 faces entirely covered with black, except a round spot in 
 the centre, which includes the upper lip and end of the 
 nose, which is painted red ; others again, have their heads 
 entirely black, except a large red round spot on each ear ; 
 others with one eye black and the other red, &c. ; but the 
 most common style of painting is, to black their faces 
 entirely over with charcoal, and then wetting their nails, 
 to draw parallel undulating lines on their cheeks. They ge 
 nerally carry a little looking glass about them to enable them 
 to dispose of their colours judiciously. When they go to war 
 they rub in the paint with grease, and are much more parti- 
 cular about their appearance, which they study to render as 
 horrible as possible ; they then cover their whole body with 
 red, white, and black paint, and seem more like devils than 
 human beings. Different tribes have different methods of 
 painting themselves. 
 
 Though the Indians spend so much of their time in adorn ^ 
 ing their persons, yet they take no pains to ornament their 
 habitations, which for the most part are wretched indeed. 
 Some of them are formed of logs, but the greater part are 
 of a moveable nature, and fonned of bark. The bark of the 
 Dirch tree is deemed preferable to every other sort, and 
 where it is to be had is always made use of 5 but in this part 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA 369 
 
 of the country not being often met with, the bark of the ehn 
 tree is used in its stead. The Indians are very expert in 
 stripping it from a tree ; and frequently take the entire bark 
 from off the trunk in one piece. The skeletons of their 
 huts consist of slender poles, and on them the bark is fas- 
 tened with strips of the tough rind of some young tree : this, 
 if found, proves a very effectual defence against the weather. 
 The huts are built in various forms; some of them have 
 walls on every side, doors, and also a chimney in the middle 
 of the roof; others are open on one side, and are nothing 
 better than sheds. When built in this last style, four of 
 them are commonly placed together, so as to form a qua- 
 drangle, with the open parts towards the inside, and a fire 
 common to them all is kindled in the middle. In fine wea- 
 ther these huts are agreeable dwellings ; but in the depth of 
 winter they must be dreadfully uncomfortable. Others of 
 their huts are built in a conical shape. Many of the Indian 
 nations have no permanent place of residence, but move 
 about from one spot to another, and in the hunting season 
 they all have moveable encampments, which last are in 
 general very rude, and insufficient to give them even toler- 
 able shelter from a fall of rain or snow. The hunring sea- 
 son commences on the fall of the leaf, and continues till the 
 snow dissolves. 
 
 In the depth of winter, when the snow is frozen on the 
 ground, they form their hunting sheds of the snow itself; 
 a few twigs platted together being simply placed overhead 
 to prevent the snow, which forms the roof, from falling 
 down. These snowy habitations are much more comfort- 
 able and warmer in the winter time than any others that can 
 be erected, as they effectually screen you from the keen 
 piercing blasts of the wind, and a bed of snow is far from 
 being uncomfortable. 
 
 The utensils in an Indian hut are very few ; one or two 
 brass or iron kettles procured from t e tralers, or, if thej 
 live removed from them, pots formed of stone^ together with 
 
 ^10 3 B. 
 
370 franklin's journey 
 
 a few wooden spoons and dishes made by themselves, con- 
 stitute in general the whole of them. A stone of a very soft 
 texture, called the soap stone, is very commonly found in 
 the back parts of North America, particularly suited for In- 
 dian woikmanship. It receives its name from appearing to 
 the touch as soft and smooth as a bit of soap ; and indeed it 
 may be cut with a knife almost equally easy. In Virginia 
 they use it powdered for the boxes of their wheels instead of 
 grease. Soft, however, as is this stone, it will resist fire 
 equally with iron* The soap stone is of a dove colour 
 others, nearly of the same quality, are found in the countiy, 
 of a black and red colour, which are still commonly used by 
 the Indians for the bowls of their pipes. 
 
 The bark canoes, which the Indians use in this part of 
 the country, are by no means so neatly formed a« those 
 made in the country upon and to the north of the Kiver St. 
 Lawrence ; they are commonly formed of one entire piece 
 of elm bark, taken from the trunk of the tree, which is bound 
 on ribs foimed of slender rods of tough wood. There are 
 no ribs, however, at th« ends of these canoes, but merely at 
 the middle part, where alone it is that passengers ever sit. 
 It is only the centre, indeed, which rests upon the water ; 
 the ends are genera,Hy raised some feet above the surface, 
 the canoes being of a curved form. They bring them into 
 this shape by cutting, nearly midway between the stem and 
 stern, two deep slits, one on each side, in the back, and by 
 lapping the disjointed edges one over the other. No pains 
 are taken to make the ends of the canoes water tight, since 
 they never touch the water. 
 
 On first inspection you would imagine, from its miserable 
 appearance, that an elm bark canoe, thus constructed, was 
 not calculated to carry even a single person safely across a 
 smooth piece of water ; it is nevertheless a remarkable safe 
 sort of boat, and the Indians will resolutely embark in one 
 of them during very rough weather. They are so light that 
 they ride securely over every wave, and the only precaution 
 
TO THE POLAR SKA. 371 
 
 necessary in navigating them is to sit steady. A dozen peo 
 pie will go securely in one, which might be easily carried by 
 a single able-bodied man. When an Indian takes his family 
 to any distance in a canoe, the women, the girls, and I oys, 
 are furnished each with a paddle, and are kept busily at 
 work; the father of the family gives himself no trouble but 
 in steering the vessel. 
 
 The Indians that are connected with the traders have 
 now, very generally, laid aside bows and arrows, and seldom 
 take them into their Uands, except it be to amuse themselves 
 for a few hours, when they have expended their powder and 
 shot; their boys, however, still use them universally, and 
 some of them shoot with wonderful dexterity. A young 
 Shawnese chief, not more than ten years old, fixed three 
 arrows running in the body of a small black squirrel, on the 
 top of a very small tree, and he scarcely missed half a 
 dozen times in a day. It is astonishing to see with what 
 accuracy, and at the same time with what readiness, they 
 mark the spot where their arrows fall. They will shoot 
 away a dozen arrows or more, seemingly quite careless 
 about what becomes of them, and as inattentive to the spot 
 where they fall as if they never expected to find them again, 
 yet afterwards they will run and pick them every one up 
 without hesitation. The southern Indians are much more 
 expert at the use of the bow than those near the lakes, as 
 they make much greater use of it. 
 
 The expertness of the Indians in throwing the tomahawk 
 is well known. At the distance of ten yards they will fix 
 the sharp edge of it in an object nearly to a certainty. They 
 are not fcAid of letting it out of their hands in action, and 
 they never attempt to throw it but when they are on the 
 point of overtaking a flying foe, or are certain of recovering 
 it. Some of them will fasten a string the length of a few 
 feet to the tomahawk, and will launch it forth, and draw it 
 back again into their hand with great dexterity ; the) will 
 
372 franklin's journey 
 
 also parry the thrust or cuts of a sword with the tomahawk 
 very dexterously. 
 
 The common tomahawk is nothing more than a light 
 hatchet, hut the most approved sort has on the hack part of 
 the hatchet, and connected with it in one piece, the howl of 
 a pipe, so that when the handle is perforated, the tomahawk 
 answers every purpose of a pipe ; the Indians indeed are 
 fonder of smoaking out of a tomahawk than out of any other 
 sort of pipe. That formerly given to the Indians by the 
 French traders, instead of a pipe, had a large spike on the 
 back part of the hatchet ; very few of these instruments are 
 now to be found amongst them. The tomahawk is commonly 
 worn by the left side, stuck in a belt. For the favourite 
 chiefs, very elegant pipe tomahawks, inlaid with silver, are 
 manufactured by tlie aimourers in the Indian department. 
 
 An Indian child, soon after it is born, is swathed in cloths 
 or skins, and being then laid on its back, is bound down on a 
 piece of thick board, spread over with soft moss. The board 
 is left somewhat longer and broader than the child, and bent 
 pieces of wood, like pieces of hoops, are placed over its 
 face to protect it, so that if the machine were suffered to 
 fall the child would not probably be injured. The women, 
 when they go abroad, carry their children thus tied down on 
 their backs, the board being suspended by a broad band, 
 which they wear round their foreheads. When they have 
 any business to transact at home, they hang the board on a 
 tree, if there be one at hand, and set them a swinging from 
 side to side, like a pendulum, in order to exercise the chil- 
 dren ; sometimes also, they unloose the children from the 
 boards, and putting them each into a sort of little*hammock, 
 fasten them between two trees, and there suffer them to 
 swing about. As soon as they are strong enough to crawl 
 about on their hands and feet they are liberated from all 
 confinement, and suffered, like young puppies, to run about, 
 stark naked, into water> into mud, into snow, and in shoit. 
 
TO THE POLAR 8Ei. 373 
 
 to go wheiesover their choice leads them ; hence they derive 
 that vigour of constitution which enables them to support the 
 greatest fatigue, and that indifference to the changes of the 
 weather which they possess in common with the brute crea- 
 tion. The girls are covered with a loose garment as soon as 
 they have attained four or five years of age, but the boys go 
 naked till they are considerably older. 
 
 The Indians are for the most part very slightly made, 
 and from a survey of their persons, one would imagine that 
 they were much better qualified for any pursuits that re- 
 quired great agility than great bodily strength. This has 
 been the general opinion of most of those who have written 
 on this subject ; however, others think that the Indians are 
 much more remarkable for their muscular strength than for 
 their agility. At different miHtary posts on the frontiers, 
 where this subject has been agitated, races, for the sake of 
 experiment, have frequently been made between soldiers 
 and Indians, and provided the distance was not great, the 
 Indians have almost always been beaten ; but in a long 
 race, where strength of muscle was required, they have 
 without exception been victorious ; in leaping also the In- 
 dians have been infallibly beaten by such of the soldiers as 
 possessed common activity; but the strength of the Indiana 
 is most conspicuous in the carrying of burdens on tlieir 
 backs ; they esteem it nothing to walk thirty miles a day for 
 several days together, under a loud of eight stone, and they 
 will walk an entire day under a load without taking any 
 reiVeshment. In carrying burdens they make use of a sort 
 of frame, somewhat similar to what is commonly used by a 
 glazier to carry glass ; this is fastened by cords, or strips 
 of tough bark or leather, round their shoulders, and when 
 the load is fixed upon the broad ledge at the bottom of the 
 fmme, two bands are thrown round the whole, one of which 
 is brought across the forehead, and the other across the 
 breast, and thus the load is supi orled. Ilie length of way 
 an Indian will travel in the course of the day, when unen- 
 
874 FRANKLIN'l§ JOURNET 
 
 cumbered with a load, is astonishing. A young Wyandot, 
 who was employed to carry a message, travelled but little 
 short of eighty miles on foot in one day, and when he arrived 
 at the end of his journey, he did not appear in the least de- 
 gree fatigued. 
 
 Le P. Charlevoix observes, that the Indians seem to him 
 to possess many personal advantages over Europeans ; their 
 senses, in particular, he thinks much finer ; their sight is, 
 indeed, quick and penetrating, and it does not fail them till 
 they are Air advanced in years, notwithstanding that their 
 eyes are exposed so many months each winter to the daz. 
 zling whiteness of the snow, and to the sharp irritating smoke 
 of wood fires. Disorders in the eyes are almost wholly un- 
 known to them ; nor is the slightest blemish ever seen in 
 their eyes, excepting it be a result from some accident. 
 Their hearing is very acute, and their sense of smelling so 
 nice, that they can tell when they are approaching a fire 
 long before it is in sight. 
 
 The Indians have most retentive memories ; they will 
 preserve to their deaths a recollection of any place they have 
 once passed through ; they never forget a fiice that they have 
 attentively observed but for a few seconds ; at the end of 
 many years they will repeat every sentence of the speeches 
 that have been delivered by different individuals in a public 
 assembly ; and has any speech been made in the council 
 house of the nation, particularly deserving of remembrance, 
 it will be handed down with the utmost accuracy from one 
 generation to another, though perfectly ignorant of the use 
 of hieroglyphicks and letters ; the only memorials of whieli 
 they avail themselves are small pieces of wood, and belts of 
 wampum ; the former are only used on trifling occasions, the 
 latter never but on very grand and solemn ones. Whenever 
 a conference, or a talk as they term it, is about to be held 
 with any neighbouring tribe, or whenever any treaty or 
 national compact is about to be made, one of these belts, 
 differing^ in some respects from every other that has been 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 375 
 
 made before, is immediately constructed ; each person in the 
 assembly holds this belt in his hand whilst he delivers his 
 speech, and when he has ended, he presents it to the next 
 person that rises, by which ceremony each individual is re- 
 minded, that it behoves him to be cautious in his discourse, 
 as all he says will be faithfully recorded by the belt. The 
 talk being over, the belt is deposited in the hands of the 
 principal chief. 
 
 On the ratification of a treaty, very broad splendid belts 
 are reciprocally given by the contracting parties, which are 
 deposited amongst the other belts belonging to the nation. 
 At stated intervals they are all produced to the nation, and 
 the occasions upon which they were made are mentioned ; 
 if they relate to a talk, one of the chiefs repeats the substance 
 of what was said over to them ; if to a treaty, the terms of it 
 are recapitulated. Certain of the squaws, also, are entiiisted 
 with the belts, whose business it is to relate the history of 
 each one of them to the younger branches of the tribe ; this 
 they do with great accuracy, and thus it is that the remem- 
 brance of every important transaction is kept up. 
 
 The wampum is formed of the inside of the calm shell, a 
 large sea shell bearing some similitude to that of a scallop, 
 which is found on the coasts of New England and Virginia. 
 The shell is sent in its original rough state to England, and 
 there cut into small pieces, exactly similar in shape and size 
 to the modern glass bugles worn by ladies, which little bits 
 of shell constitute wampum. There are two sorts of wam- 
 pum, the white and the purple ; the latter is most esteemed 
 by the Indians, who think a pound weight of it equally 
 valuable with a pound of silver. The wampum is strung 
 upon bits of leather, and the belt is composed of ten, twelve, 
 or more strings, according to the importance of the occasion 
 on which it is made ; sometimes, also, the wampum is sowed 
 in different patterns on broad belts of leather. 
 
 The use of wampum appears to be very general amongst 
 the Indian nations, but how it became so, is a question that 
 
376 franklin's journey 
 
 would require discussion, for it is well known that they are 
 a people obstinately attached to old customs, and that would 
 not therefore be apt to adopt, on the most grand and solemn 
 occasion, the use of an article that they had never seen until 
 brought to them by strangers ; at the sam6 time it seems 
 whoUy impossible that they should ever have been able to 
 have made wampum from the calm shell for themselves ; 
 they fashion the bowls of tobacco pipes, indeed, from stone, 
 in a very curious manner, and with astonishing accuracy, 
 considering that they use no other instmment than a common 
 knife, but then the stone which they commonly carve thus 
 is of a very soft kind ; the calm shell, however, is exceed- 
 ingly hard, and to bore and cut it into such small pieces as 
 are necessary to form wampum, very fine tools would be 
 wanting. Probably they made some use of the calm shell, 
 ' and endeavoured to reduce it to as small bits as they could 
 with their rude instruments, but on finding that Europeans 
 could cut it so much more neatly than they could, laid aside 
 the wampum before in use for that of our manufacture. 
 
 The Indians are exceedingly sagacious and observant, and 
 by dint of minute attention, acquire many qualifications to 
 which we are wholly strangers. They will traverse a track- 
 less forest, hundreds of miles in extent, without deviating 
 from the straight course, and will reach to a certainty the 
 spot whither they intended to go on setting out ; with equal 
 skill they will cross one of the large lakes, and though out 
 of sight of the shores for days, will to a certainty make the 
 land at once, at the very place they desired. Some of the 
 French missionaries have supposed that the Indians are 
 guided by instinct, and have pretended that Indian children 
 can find their way through a forest as ea^ly as a person ot 
 maturer years ; but this is a most absurd notion. It is un- 
 questionably hf a close attention to the growth of the trees, 
 and position of the sun, that they find their way. On the 
 northern side of a tree there is generally the most moss, and 
 the bark on that side in general differs from that ob the op* 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 877 
 
 posite one. The branches toward the south are for the 
 most part more luxuriant than those on the other side of 
 trees, and several other distinctions also subsist between the 
 northern and southern sides, conspicuous to Indians, who 
 are taught from their infancy to attend to them, which a 
 common observer would perhaps never notice. Being ac- 
 customed from their childhood, likewise, to pay great atten. 
 tion to the position of the sun, they learn to make the most 
 accurate allowance for its apparent motion from one part of 
 the heavens to another, and in any part of the day they will 
 point to the part of the heavens where it is, although the sky 
 be obscured by clouds or mists. 
 
 An instance of their dexterity in finding their way through 
 an unknown country, is noticed by Mr. Weld. He says, 
 a number of the Creek nation had arrived at Staunton, in 
 their way to Philadelphia, whither they were going upon 
 some affairs of importance, and had stopped there for the 
 night. In the morning some circumstance or another, which 
 could not be learned, induced one half of the Indians to set 
 off without their companions, who did not follow until some 
 hours afterwards. When these last were ready to pursue 
 their journey, several of the towns-people mounted their 
 horses to escort them part of the way. They proceeded 
 along the high road for some miles, but all at once, hastily 
 turning aside into the woods, though there was no path, the 
 Indians advanced confidently forward ; the people who ac- 
 companied them, surprised at this movement, informed them 
 that they were quitting the road to Philadelphia, and ex- 
 pressed their fears lest they should miss their companions 
 who had gone on before. Tliey answered, that they knew 
 better ; that the way through the woods was the shortest 
 to Philadelphia; and that they knew very well that their 
 companions had entered the woods at the very place they 
 did. Curiosity led some of the horsemen to go on ; and to 
 their astonishment, for there was apparently no track, they 
 overtook the other Indians in the thickest part of the wood ; 
 
 «; 16 $C 
 
378 franklin's journey 
 
 bat what appeared most sinp^ular was, tliat the route which 
 they took was found, on examining a map, to be as direct 
 for Philadelphia as if they had taken the bearings by a ma- 
 riner's compass. From others of their nation, who had been 
 at Philadelphia at a former period, they had probably learned 
 the exact direction of that city from their village, and had 
 never lost sight of it, although they had already travelled 
 three hundred miles through woods, and had upwards of 
 four hundred miles more to go before they could reach the 
 place of their destination. 
 
 The Indians, for the most part, are admirably w^ell ac- 
 quainted with the geography of their own country. Ask 
 them any questions relative to the situation of a particular 
 place in it, and if th-ere be a convenient spot at hand, they 
 will, v/ith the utmost facility, trace upon the ground with a 
 stick a map, by no means inaccurate, of the place in question 
 and the surrounding countiy ; they will point out the course 
 of the rivers, and by directing your attention to the sun, 
 make you acquainted with the different bearings. 
 
 Tlie Indians most commonly take upon them the name 
 of some animal, as. The Blue Snake ; The Little Turkey ; 
 The Big Bear ; The Mad Dog, &c. and their signatures con- 
 sist of the outline, drawn with a pen, of the different animals 
 whose names they bear. Some of the signatures at the bot- 
 tom of these deeds were really well executed, and were lively 
 re})resentations of the animals they were intended for. 
 
 The Indians in general possess no small share of ingenuity. 
 Their domestic wooden utensils, bows and arrows, and other 
 weapons, &c. are made with the same neatness; and in 
 deed the workmanship of them is frequently such as to ex- 
 cite astonishment, when it is considered that a knife and a 
 hatchet are the only instruments they make use of. On the 
 handles of their tomahawks, on their powder horns, on the 
 bowls of their pipes, &c. you oftentimes meet with figures 
 extremely well designed, and with specimens of carving far 
 from contemptible. 'The embroidery upon their moccasins 
 
TO THE rOLAR SEA. '^79 
 
 and other garments shews that the females are not less iu- 
 genious in then* way than the men. Their porcupine quill 
 work would command admiration in any country in Europe. 
 The soft young quills of the porcupine are those which they 
 use, and they dye them of the most beautiful and brilliant 
 colours imaginable. Some of their dyes have been dis- 
 co rered, but many of them yet remain unknown, as do also 
 many of the medicines with whikih they perform sometimes 
 most miraculous cures. Their dyes and medicines are all 
 procured from the vegetable world-. 
 
 A French writer tells of some Iroquois Indians that 
 walked through several of the finest streets of Paris, but 
 without expressing the least pleasure at any thing they saw, 
 until at last they came to a cook's shop ; this called forth their 
 warmest praise ; a shop where a man was always sure of 
 getting something to satisfy his hunger, without the trouble 
 and fatigue of hunting and fishing, was in their opinion one 
 of the most admirable institutions possible ; had they been 
 told, however, that they must have paid for what they eat, 
 they would have expressed equal indignation perhaps at what 
 they saw. In their own villages they have no idea of refus- 
 ing food to any person that enters their habitation in quality 
 of a friend ; and there is not one of them but what would 
 prefer his own wigwam to the most splendid habitations they 
 see in any of these places. The shipping, however, at Phi- 
 ladelphia and the other sea-ports, seldom fails to excite ad- 
 miration, because they at once see the utility and advantage 
 of large vessels over canoes, which are the only vessels they 
 have. The young Wyandot, who, as before mentioned, 
 made such a wonderful day's journey on foot, while at Phi- 
 ladelphia, appeared highly delighted with the river, and the 
 great number ot" ships of all sizes upon it ; but the tide at- 
 tracted his attention more than any thing else whatsoever. 
 On coming to the river the first day, he looked up at the sun, 
 and made certain obsei vations upon the course of the stream, 
 and ijeneial situatiou of tiu place, as the Indians never fail 
 
380 FRANKLIN'S JOURNEY 
 
 to do on coming to jiny new or remarkable spot. The second 
 time, however, he went down to the water, he found to his 
 surprise that the river was running with equal rapidity in a 
 contrary direction to what he had seen it run the day before. 
 For a moment he imagined that by some mistake he must 
 have got to the opposite side of it ; but soon recollecting 
 himself, and being persuaded that he stood on the very same 
 spot from whence he had viewed it the day before, his as- 
 tonishment became great indeed. To obtain information 
 upon such an interesting point, he immediately sought out 
 an aid- de-camp of General Wayne, who had brought him to 
 town. This gentleman, however, only rendered the appear- 
 ance still more mysterious to him, by telling him, that the 
 Great Spirit, for the convenience of the white men, who were 
 his particular favouiites, had made the rivers in their coun- 
 try to run two ways. ^ 
 Nothing gives more delight to the Indians than to see a 
 man that excels in any bodily exercise ; and tell them even 
 of a person that is distinguished lor his great strength, foi 
 his swiftness in running, for his dexterous management of 
 the bow or the gun, for his cunning in hunting, for his in- 
 trepid and firm conduct in war, or the like, they will listen 
 to ycm with the greatest pleasure, and readily join in praises 
 of the hero- 
 No people Oil earth ate mote alive to the calls of friend, 
 ship ; no people have a greater affection for their offspring 
 in their tender ^ears ; no people are more sensible of an in- 
 jury ; a word in the slightest degree insulting will kindle a 
 flame in their bteasts, that can only be extinguished by the 
 blood of the offending party 5 and they will traverse forests 
 for hundreds of miles, exposed to the inclemency of the se- 
 verest weather and to the pangs of hunger, to gratify their 
 revenge ^ they will not cease for years daily to visit, and si- 
 lently to mourn over the i^rave of a departed child ; and they 
 will risk their lives, and sacrifice every thing they possess, to 
 assist a ti iciid in distress ; but at the same time, in their opi- 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA, 884 
 
 men, no man can be esteemed a good warrior, or a dignilied 
 character, that openly betmys any extravagant emotions of 
 surprise, of joy, of sorrow, or of fear, on any occasion what- 
 soever. The excellence of appearing thus indifferent to what 
 would excite the strongest emotions in the minds of any other 
 people, is forcibly inculcated on them from their earliest 
 vouth ; and such an astonishing command do they acquire 
 over themselves, that even at the stake, when suffering the 
 severest tortures that can be inflicted on the human body by 
 the flames and the knife, they appear unmoved, and laugh, 
 as it is well known, at their tormentors. 
 
 The Indians scarcely ever Hft their hands against their 
 children ; but if they are unmindful of what is said to them, 
 they sometimes throw a little water in their faces, a species 
 of reprimand of which the children have the greatest dread, 
 and which produces an instantaneous good effect. One of 
 the French missionaries tells of his having seen a girl of an 
 advanced age so vexed at having some water thrown in her 
 face by her mother, as if she was still a child, that she in- 
 stantly retired, and put an end to her existence. As long 
 as they remain children, the young Indians are attentive in 
 the extreme to the advice of their parents ; but when arrived 
 at the age of puberty, and able to provide for themselves, 
 they no longer have any respect for them, and they will fol- 
 low their own will and pleasure in spite of all their remon 
 strances, unless, indeed, their parents be of an advanced age. 
 Old age never fails to command their most profound vene« 
 ration. 
 
 In their conduct towards one another, nought but gentle- 
 ness and harmony is observable; but when intoxicated with 
 spirits, which is but too often the case, a very different picture 
 is presented to view, and they appear more like devils in- 
 carnate than human beings ; they roar, they fight, they cut 
 each other, and commit every sort of outrage ; indeed, so 
 sensible are they of their own inhimities in this state, that 
 when a number of thei^i »re about to get drunk, they give 
 
382 
 
 anklin's journey 
 
 lip their knives and tomahawks, &e. to one of the ])arty, who 
 is on honour to remain sobei-, and to prevent mischief, and 
 who does generally behave according to this promise. If 
 they happen to get drunk without having taken this precau- 
 tion, their squaws take the earliest opportunity to deprive 
 them of their weapons. 
 
 The Indians prefer whisky and rum to all other spirituous 
 liquors ; but they do not seem eager to obtain these liquors 
 so much for the pleasure of gratifying their palates as for 
 the sake of intoxication. There is not one in a hundred that 
 can refrain from drinking to excess if he have it in his 
 power, and the generality of them having oi>ce got a taste of 
 any intoxicating liquor, will use every means to gain more ; 
 and to do so they at once become mean, servile, deceitful, 
 and depraved, in every sense of the word. Nothing can make 
 amends to these unfortunate people for the introduction of 
 spirituous liquors amongst them. Before their acquaintance 
 with them, they were distinguished beyond all other nations 
 for their temperance in eating and drinking ; for their tem- 
 perance in eating, indeed, they still are remarkable, they es- 
 teem it indecorous in the highest degree even to appear hun- 
 gry ; and on arriving at their villages, after having fasted, 
 perhaps for several days preceding, they will sit down 
 quietly, and not ask for any food for a considerable time ; 
 and having got wherewith to satisfy their appetite, they will 
 eat with moderation, as though the calls of hunger were not 
 more pressing than if they had feasted the hour before. 
 They never eat on any occasion in a hurry. 
 
 These Indians are by nature of a very hospitable, generous 
 disposition, where no particular circumstances operate to the 
 contrary ; and, indeed, even when revenge would fain per- 
 8uade them to behave diiOferently, yet having once professed 
 a friendship for a stranger, and pledged themselves for his 
 safety, nothing can induce them to deviate from their word. 
 
 Tlie generality of the Indian nations appear to have two 
 feorts of chiefs, council chiefs, and war chiefs. Tlic former 
 
TO THE POr.AR SKA. 383 
 
 are hereditary, and are employed principally in the manai^e- 
 meut of their civil affairs ; but they may be war chiefs at tne 
 same time ; the latter are chosen from amongst those who 
 have distinguished themselves the most in battle, and are 
 solely employed in leading the waniors in the field. The 
 chiefs have no power of enforcing obedience to their com- 
 mands, nor do they ever attempt to give their orders in an 
 imperious manner ; they simply advise. Each private indi- 
 vidual conceives that he is born in a state of perfect liberty, 
 and he disdains all control, but that which his own reason 
 subjects him to. As they have all one interest, however, at 
 heart, which is the general welfare of the nation, and as it is 
 well known that the chiefs ai*e actuated by no other motives, 
 whatever measures they recommend are generally attended 
 to, and at once adopted. 
 
 . The Indians have the most sovereign contempt for any set 
 of people that have tamely relinquished their liberty ; and 
 they consider such as have lost it, even after a hard struggle, 
 as unworthy any rank in society above that of old women ; 
 to this cause, and not to the diflference that subsists between 
 their persons, is to be attributed the rooted aversion which 
 the Indians have for negroes. You could not possibly affront 
 an Indian more readily, than by telling him that you think 
 he bears some resemblance to a negro ; or that he has negro 
 blood in his veins ; they look upon them as animals inferior 
 to the human species, and will kill them with as much un- 
 concern as a dog or a cat. 
 
 An An.erican officer, who, during the war with Great 
 Britain, had been sent to one of the Indian nations resident 
 on the western frontiers of the States, to persuade them to 
 remain neuter in the contest, has stated, that whilst he re- 
 mained amongst them, some agents arrived in their village to 
 negotiate, if possible, for the release of some negro slaves 
 whom they had carried off from the American settlements. 
 One of these negroes, a remarkably tall handsome fellow, 
 had been given to an Indian woman of some consequence in, 
 
S84 rankmn's journey 
 
 the nation, in the manner in which prisoners are usually dis. 
 posed of amongst them, Apphcation was made to her for his 
 ransom. She listened quietly to what was said ; resolved at 
 the same time, however, that the fellow should not have his 
 liberty, she stepped aside into her cabin, and having brought 
 out a large knife, walked up to her slave, and without more 
 ado, plunged it into his bowels : " Now,** says she, address- 
 ing herself coolly to the agents ; " now I give you leave to 
 take away your negro.** The poor creature that had been 
 stabbed fell to the ground, and lay writhing about in the great- 
 est agonies, until one of the warriors took compassion on him. 
 and put an end to his misery by a blow of a tomahawk. 
 
 It is a very singular and remarkable circumstance, that not- 
 withstanding the striking similarity in the persons, manners, 
 dispositions, and religion of the diflferent tribes of Indians 
 from one end of the continent of North America to the other, 
 a similarity so great as hardly to leave a doubt on the mmd 
 but that they must all have had the same origin, the lan- 
 guages of the diflferent tribes should yet be so materially dif- 
 ferent. No two tribes speak exactly the same language; 
 and the languages of many of those who live at no great 
 distance asunder, vaiy so much, that they cannot make them- 
 selves at all understood by each other. 
 
 Some persons, who have made the Indian languages their 
 study, assert, that all the different languages spoken by those 
 tribes, with which we have any connection, are but dialect? 
 of three primitive tongues, viz. the Huron, the Algonquin, 
 and the Sioux ; the two former of which, being well under- 
 stood, will enable a person to converse, at least slightly, with 
 the Indians of any tribe in Canada or the United States 
 All the nations that speak a language derived from the Sioux, 
 have, it is said, a hissing pronunciation ; those who speak one 
 derived from the Huron, have a gutteral proiiunciation ; and 
 such as speak any one derived from the Algonquin, pro- 
 nounce their words with greater softness and ease than any 
 of the other. 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 386 
 
 The Indians, both men and women^ speak with great deli- 
 beration, and never appear to be at a loss for words to ex- 
 press their sentiments. The native music of the Indians is 
 very rudeawd indifferent, and equally devoid of melody and 
 variety. Their famous war song- is nothing better than an in- 
 sipid recitative. Singing and dancing with them go band in 
 hand; and when alarge number of them, collected together, 
 join in one song, the few wild notes of which it consists, 
 mingled with tlie sound of their pipes and drums, sometimes 
 produce, when heard at a distance, a pleasing effect on the 
 ear ; but it i« then and then only that their music is tolerable. 
 
 A writer who was witness to their dancing says, three el- 
 derly men, seated upon a tree, were the principal musicians. 
 One of these beat a small drum, formed of a piece of a hollow 
 tree covered with a skin, and the two others marked time 
 equally with the drum, with rattles formed of dried squashes 
 or gourds filled with peas. At the same time these mcu 
 sung, indeed they were the leaders of the song, which the 
 dancers joined in. The dancers consist<;d solely of a party of 
 squaws, to the number of twenty or tjiereabouts, who stand- 
 ing in a circle, with their face inwards and their hands folded 
 round each -other's necks, moved, thus linked together, side 
 ways, with close short steps, round a small fire* The men 
 and women never dance together, unless indeed a pretty 
 squaw be introduced by some young fellow into on€ of the 
 men's dances, which is considered as a very great mark of 
 favour. This is of a piece with the general conduct of the 
 Indians, who look upon the wonjen in a totally different light 
 from what we do in Europe, and condemn them as slaves to 
 do all the drudgery. 
 
 After the women had danced for a time, a larger fire was 
 kindled, and the men assembled from different parts of the 
 island, to the number of fifty or sixty, to amuse themselves 
 in their turn. There was little more variety in their dancing 
 than in that of the women. They first walked round the fire 
 in a large circle, closely, one after another, marking time 
 
 P. V. 17. D D D 
 
3^-6 FRANK LIT^j's JIURNKY 
 
 n ith short steps to the mrisir ; the (;e.st dancer was put at 
 their head, and c^nve I he step ; he was also the priiicipal 
 singer in the circle. Alter having- made one round, tho step 
 was altered to a wider one, and they beg^an to stamp with 
 great vehemence upon the gi'ound ; and every third or fourth 
 round, making little leaps off the ground with both feet, they 
 turned their faces to the fire and bowed their heads, at the 
 same time going on sideways. At last, having made a dozen 
 or two rounds, towards the end of which each one of them 
 had begun to stamp on the ground with inconceivable fury, 
 bwt more particulrirly the principal dancer, they all gave a 
 loud shout at once, and the dance ended. 
 
 In two or three minutes another dance was begun, which 
 ended as soon, and nearly in the same way as the olher^ 
 There was but little difference in the figures of any of ihrm, 
 and the only material difference in the songs was, that m 
 «ome of them the dancers, instead of singing the whole of (ho 
 air, came in simply with responses to the airs sung by theoW 
 men. They beckoned to iis to join them in their dance, 
 which wc immediately did, as it was likely to please them, 
 and we remained on the island with them till two or ihiee 
 o*clock in the morning. Thetfo is eonietbing' inconceivably 
 terrible in the sight of a number of Indians dancing ihus 
 round a fire ia the depihsof thick woods, and ihe loud shrieks 
 at the end of every dimce add greatly to the horror which 
 their first appearance inspires. 
 
 They never think of dancing till the night is considerably 
 advanced, and ihey keep it, up till daybreak. In the day 
 time they lie sleeping in the sun, or set smoking tobacco, 
 that is, when they have nothing particular to engage them. 
 Though the most diligent persevering people in the world 
 when roused into action^ yet when at peace with their neigh- 
 bours, and having got wherewith to satisfy the calls of hunger, 
 ihey are the most slothful and indolent possible. 
 
 Tiie dances mentioned are such as the Indians amuse 
 ihemselves with in commou. On grand occasieus they have 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. :W§ 
 
 a variety of others much more interesting- to a spectator. 
 The dances which you «?ee in common amongst the Shawnose, 
 and certain other tribes, are also, it is said, mucli more en- 
 tertaining than those here described 
 
 Of their grand dances the war dance must undoubtedly, 
 from every account received of it, be the one most worthy 
 the attention of a straui^er. It is performed both on setting 
 out and returning from their war parties, and likewise at other 
 times, but never except on some very particular and solemu 
 occasion. The chiefs and warriors whoare about to join in 
 4his dance dress and paint themselves as if actually out on a 
 warlike expedition, and they carry in their hands their war- 
 like weapons. Being assembled, they seat themselves down 
 -on their hams, in a circle, round a great fire, near to which 
 is placed a large post ; after remaining a short time in this 
 position, one of the principal chiefs rises, and placing him- 
 self in the centre, begins to rehearse, in a sort of recitative, 
 all the gallant actions which hehasever performed; he dwells 
 particularly on the number of enemies he has killed, and 
 describes the manner in which he scalped them, making ges- 
 tures all the time, and brandishing his weapons, as if actully 
 engaged in performing the horrid operation. At the end of 
 every remarkable story he strikes his war club on the post 
 with great fury. Every chief and warrior tells of his deeds 
 in turn. The song of one warrior often occupies several 
 hours, and the dance itself sometimes lasts for three or four 
 entire days and nights. During this period no one is allowed 
 to sleep, a person who stands at the outside of the circle be- 
 ing appointed (whose business it is) to rouse any warrior that 
 appears in the least drowsy. A deer, a bear, or some other 
 large animal is put to roast at the fire as soon as the dance 
 bei> ins, and while it lasts each warrior rises at will to help 
 himself to a piece of it. After each person in the circle has 
 in turn told ofhis exploits, they all rise, and join in adanee 
 truly terrifying : they throw themselves into a variety of pos- 
 tures, and leaping about in the most fvantic manner, bran- 
 D D D 2 
 
883 franklin's JOUKNI y 
 
 dish iheir knives and otber weapons ; at the same time they 
 set up the war hoop, and utter the most dreadful yells ima- 
 ginable. In this manner the dance terminates. 
 
 The Indian flute or pipeisformed of a thick cane, similar to 
 what is found on the banks of the Mississippi, and in the 
 southern parts of the United States. It is about two feet 
 or more in length, and has eight or nine holes in it, in one 
 row. It is held in the same manner as the oboe or clarinet, 
 and the sound is produced by means of a mouth piece not un- 
 like that of a common whistle. The tones of the instrument 
 are by no means unharmonious, and they would admit of a 
 pleasing modulation, but it is seldom that an Indian is found 
 able to play a regular air upon it, not even any one of the 
 airs which they commonly sing, although several are ex- 
 tremely fond of amusing themselves with the instrument, and 
 will sit for hours together over the embers of their cabin 
 fires, playing over a few melancholy notes Every Indian 
 that can bring a sound out of the instrument, and stop the 
 holes, which any one may do, thinks himself master of it; 
 and the notes which they commonly produce are as uncon- 
 nected and unmeaning as those which a child would bring 
 forth from a halfpenny whistle. 
 
 Notwithstanding they are such a very friendly hospitable 
 people, yet few persons, who ever tasted of the pleasures 
 and comforts of civilised life, would feel any inclination to 
 reside amongst them, on becoming acquainted with their 
 manner of living. The filthiness and wretchedness of their 
 smoky habitations, the nauseousness of their common food to 
 a person net even of a delicate palate, and their general un- 
 cleanliness, would be sufficient to deter any one from going 
 to live amongst them from choice, supposing even that no 
 other reasons, operated against his doing so. 
 
 Bethlehem, the principal settlement, in North America, 
 of the Moravians, or United Brethren, is most agreeably si- 
 tuated on a ri«ing ground, bounded on one side by the River 
 Lehcigb, which falls into the l)elawarr> and on the other by 
 
to THE roLAR SFA. S89 
 
 a creek, which has a very rapid current, and affords excel- 
 lent seats for a great number of mills. The town is regu- 
 larly laid out, and contains about eighty strong built stone 
 dwelling houses and a large church. Three of the dwelling 
 houses are very spacious buildings and are appropriated 
 respectively to the accommodation of the unmarried young 
 men of the society, of the unmarried females, and of the wi- 
 dows. In these houses different manufactures are carried 
 on, and the inmates of each are subject to a discipline ap- 
 proaching somewhat to that of a monastic institution. They 
 eat together in a refectory ; they sleep in dormitories ; they 
 attend morning and evening prayers in the chapel of the 
 house; they work for a certain number of hours in the day; 
 and they have stated intervals allotted to them for recreation. 
 They are not subjected, by the rules of the society, to per- 
 petual confinement ; but they seldom, notwithstanding, go 
 beyond the bounds of their walks and gardens, except it be 
 occasionally to visit their friends in the town. 
 
 The young persons of different sexes have but very little 
 intercourse with each other ; they never enter each other*s 
 houses, and at church they are obliged to sit separate; a 
 bachelor is not permitted to offer his proposals in person to 
 the object of his choice, butmerely through the medium ofthe 
 superintendant of the female house. If from the report of 
 the elders and wardens ofthe society it appears to the super- 
 intendant that heis able to maintain a wife, she then acquaints ' 
 her protegee with the offer, and should she consent, they are 
 married immediately, but if she do not, the superintendant 
 selects another female from the house, whom she imagines 
 would be suitable to the young man, and on his approval of 
 her they are as quickly married. Hasty as these marriages 
 are, they are never known to be attended with unhappiness; 
 for being taught from theirearliest infancy to keep those pas- 
 sions under controul, which occasion so much mischiefamongst 
 the mass of mankind ; being inured to regular habits of indus- 
 try, and to a quiet sober life ; and being in their peaceable 
 
890 
 
 and retired settlements out of the reach of (hose (einptations 
 which persons are exposed to who launch forth into the busy 
 M orld, and who mingle with the multitude, the pmties meet 
 with nought through life to interrupt their domestic repose. 
 
 Attached to the young men's and to the young women's 
 houses there are boarding schools for boys and girls, under 
 the direction of proper teachers, which are also inspected by 
 the elders and wardens of the society. These schools are 
 in great repute, and not only the children of Moravians are 
 sent to them, but also those of many genteel persons of a 
 different persuasion, resident in Philadelphia, New York, 
 and other towns in the neighbouring States. The boys are 
 instructed in the Latin, German, French, and English lan- 
 guages; arithmetic, music, drawing, &c. the girls are like- 
 wise instructed in these different languages and sciences, and, 
 in short, in every thing that is usually taught at a female 
 boarding school, except dancing. When of a sufficient age 
 to provide for themselves, the young women of the society are 
 admitted into (he house destined for their accommodation, 
 where embroidery, fine needle-work, carding", spinning, knit- 
 ting, &c. &c. and other works suitable to females, are carried 
 on. A separate room is allotted f)r every different busi- 
 ness, and a female, somewhat older tiian the rest, presides in 
 it, to inspect the work, and preserve regularity. Persons are 
 appointed to dispose of the «jeveral articles manufactured in 
 the house, and the money which they produce is distributed 
 amongst the individuals engaged in manufacturing them, 
 who, after paying a certain sum towards the maintenance of 
 the house, and a certain sum besides into the public fund of 
 the society, are allowed to keep the remainder for themselves. 
 
 After the boys have finished their school education, they 
 are apprenticed tothebusiness which accords most with their 
 inclination. Should this be a business or trade that is carried 
 on in the young men's house, they at once go there to leani 
 Tt, but if at the house of an individual in the town, they only 
 board and lodge at the young men's house. If they are in- 
 
TO THE POLAR STA. 391 
 
 dined to agricuUural pursuits, they are then put under the 
 care of one of the farmers of the society. The young men 
 subscribe to the support of their house, and to the public 
 fund, just as the youn^i: women do ; the widows do the same; 
 and every individual in the town likewise contributes a smull 
 sum weekly to the general fund of the society. 
 
 Situated upon the creek, which skirts the town, there is 
 a flour mill, a saw mill, an oil mill, a fulling mill, a mill 
 for grinding bark and dye stuff, a tan yard, a currier's yard ; 
 and on the Leheigh River an extensive brewery, at which 
 very good malt liquor is manufactured. These mills, &c. 
 belong to the society at larg-e, and the profits arising from 
 them, the persons severally employed in conducting theoi 
 being first handsomely rewarded for their services, are paid 
 into the public fund. The lands for some miles round the 
 town, which are highly improved, likewise belong to the so- 
 ciety, as does also the tavern, and the profits arising from 
 them are disposed of in the same, manner as those arising 
 from the mills, the persons employed in managing the farms, 
 and attending to the tavern, being nothing more than stew- 
 ards or agents of the society. The fund thus raised is em- 
 ployed in relieving the distressed brethren of the society in 
 other parts of the world, in forming new settlements, and in 
 defraying the expense of the missions for the purpose of pro- 
 pagating the gospel amongst the heathens. 
 . The tavern at Bethlehem is very commodious, and it is the 
 neatest and best conducted one, without exception, in any 
 part of America, Having communicated to the landlord, on 
 arriving at it, a wish to see the town and public buildings, he 
 immediately dispatched a messenger for one of the elders, 
 and in Jess than a quarter of an hour, brother Thomas, a 
 lively fresh coloured little man, of about fifty years of age, 
 entered the room : he was dressed in a plain blue coat and 
 wai&tcoat, brown corderoy breeches, and a large round hat ; 
 there was goodness and innocence in his looks, and his manners 
 were so open and unconstrained, that it was impossible not 
 
3:)2 franklin's journey 
 
 to become familiar with him at once. When we \iere ready 
 to sally forth, he placed himself between two of iis, and lean- 
 ing on our arms, and chatting without ceremony, he con- 
 ducted us first to the young women's house. Here we were 
 shewn into a neat parlour, whilst brother Thomas went to 
 ask permission for us to see the house. In a few minutes the 
 superintendant herself came; brother Thomas introduced 
 her to us, and accompanied by them both we visited the dif- 
 ferent apartments. 
 
 The bouse is extensive, and the passages and stair-cases 
 are commodious and airy, but the work rooms are small, and 
 to such a pitch were they heated by stoves, that on entering 
 into them at first we could scarcely breathe. The stoves, 
 which they use, are built in the German style. The fire is 
 inclosed in a large box or case formed of glazed tiles, and 
 the warm air is thence conducted, through flues, mto similar 
 large cases placed in different parts of the rooms, by which 
 means every part is rendered equally warm. About a dozen 
 females or more, nearly of the same age, were seated at 
 work in each apartment. The entrance of strangers did not 
 interrupt them in the least : they went on with their work, 
 and except the inspectress, who never failed politely to rise 
 and speak to us, they did not even seem to take any notice 
 of our being in the room. 
 
 The dress of the sisterhood, though not quite uniform, is 
 very nearly so. They wear plain calico, linen, or stufl?*gowns, 
 with aprons, and close tight linen caps, made with a peak 
 in front, and tied under the chin with a piece of ribband 
 Pink ribbands are said to be worn as a badge by those who 
 are inclined to marry ; however, all the unmarried women 
 wore them, not excepting those whose age and features 
 seemed to have excluded them from every chance of becom- 
 ing the votaries of Hymen. 
 
 The dormitory of the female house is a very spacious apart- 
 ment in the upper story, which is aired by a large ventilator 
 in the ceiling. It contains about fifty boarded beds without 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 393 
 
 testers, each calculated to hold one person. They sleep 
 here during winter time in the German style, between two 
 feather beds, to which the sheets and blankets are stitched 
 fast; in summer time the heat is too g^reat here to admit 
 even of a single blankets 
 
 After having gone through the different apartments of the 
 female house, we were conducted by the superintendant into 
 a sort of shop, where different little articles of fancy work, 
 manufactured by the sisterhood, are laid out to the best ad* 
 vantage. It is always expected that strangers visiting the 
 house will lay out some trifling sum here ; and this is the 
 only reward which any member of the society expects for the 
 trouble of conducting a stranger throughout every part of 
 the town. 
 
 The bouse of the sisterhood exhibits a picture of the ut- 
 most neatness and regularity, as do likewise the young men's 
 and the widow*s houses ; and indeed the same may be said 
 of every private house throughout the town. The miils^ 
 brewery, &c. which are built upon the most approved plans, 
 are also kept in the very neatest order. 
 
 Brother Thomas, after having shewn us the different pub- 
 lic buildings and works, next introduced us into the houses 
 of several of the married men, that were roost distinguislied 
 for their ingenuity, and in some of them, particularly at the 
 house of a "cabinet maker, we were entertained with very 
 curious pieces of workmanship. 
 
 The manufactures in general carried on at Bethlehem 
 consist of woollen and linen cloths, hats, cotton and worsted 
 caps and stockings, gloves, shoes, carpenters, cabinet makers, 
 and turners work, clocks, and a few other articles of hard* 
 ware, &c. 
 
 The church is a plain building of stone, adorned with 
 pictures from sacred history. It is furnished with a toler- 
 able organ, as likewise are the chapels of the young; men's 
 and young women's houses ; they accompany their hymns, 
 besides, with violoncellos, violins, flutes, &c. The whole 
 
 P. V. 17. E E E 
 
.394 franklin's journey 
 
 society attends the church on a Sunday, and when any one 
 ^)f the society dies, all the remaining members attend his 
 funeral, which is conducted with great solemnity, though 
 with little pomp ; they never go into mourning for their de- 
 parted friends. 
 
 Every house m the town is supplied with an abundance 
 ypf excellent water from a spring, which is forced through 
 Ipipes by means of an hydraulic machine worked by water, 
 and which is situated on the banks of the creek. Some of 
 the houses are supplied with water in every room. The 
 machine is very sim|)le, and would easily raise the water of 
 tlie spring, if necessary, several hundred feet. 
 
 The spring from whence the houses are supplied with 
 water stands nearly in the centre of the town, and over it, a 
 large stone with very thick walls, is erected. Houses like 
 this are very common in America; they are called spring 
 houses, and are built for the purpose of preserving meat, 
 railk, butter, &c. during the heats of summer. This spring 
 house in Bethlehem is common to the whole town ; a shelf 
 or board in it is allotted to each family, and though there is 
 no watch placed over it, and the door be only secured by a 
 latch, yet every person is certain of finding, when he comes 
 for it, his plate of butter or bowl of milk, &c. exactly in the 
 same state as when he put it in. ^ol 
 
 The Moravians study to render their conduct strictly 
 conformable to the principles of the Christian religion. 
 Every unprejudiced person that has visited their set- 
 tlements must acknowledge, that their moral conduct is 
 truly excellent, and is such as would, if generally adopted, 
 make men happy in the extreme. They live together like 
 members of one large lamily ; the most perfect harmony 
 subsists between them, and they seem to have but one wish 
 at heart, the propagation of the gospel, and the good of 
 mankind. Th«y are in general of a grave turn of mind; 
 but nothing of that stiffness, or that singularity, prevalent 
 amongst the Quakers, is observable in their manners. 
 
TO THE POLAR SBA; U95 
 
 Wherever their society has extended itself in A^mecica^ the 
 most happy consequences have resulted from k ; good 
 order and regularity have become conspicuous in the be- 
 haviour of the people of the neighbourhood, and arts and 
 manufactures have been introduced into the country. 
 
 As the whole of the plot of ground, on ^hich Bethlehem 
 stands, belongs to the society, as well as the lands for a 
 considerable way round the town, the Moravians her« are 
 not liable to be troubled by intruders ; but any person that 
 will conform to their line of conduct will be received into 
 their society with readiness and cordiality. ^j- 
 
 They do not seem desirous of adding to the number of 
 houses in Bethlehem ; but whenever there is an increase of 
 people, they send them off to another part of the country^ 
 there to form a new settlement. Since Bethlehem was 
 founded, they have established two other towns, namely, 
 Nazareth and Letitz. The former of these stands at the 
 distance of about ten miles from Bethlehem, and in coming 
 down from the Blue Mountains you pass through it ; it is 
 about half the size of Bethlehem,, and built much on the 
 same plan. 
 
 The country for many miles round Bethlehem is most 
 pleasingly diversified with rising grounds ; the soil is rich, 
 and better cultivated than any other part of America. Until 
 within a few years past this neighbourhood has been distin- 
 guished for the salubrity of its climate ^ but fevers, chiefly 
 bilious and intermittent, have increased to a great degree of 
 late, and indeed, not only here, but in many other parts of 
 Pennsylvania, which have been long settled. Various rea- 
 sons have been assigned for this increase of fevers in Penn- 
 sylvania, but it appears most probably to be owing to the 
 unequal quantities of rain that have fallen of late years, and 
 to the unprecedented mildness of the winters. 
 
 Bethlehem is visited during summer time by numbers of 
 people from the neighbouring large towns, who are led thi- 
 ther by curiosity or pleasure ; and regularly, twice a week 
 E E E 2 
 
3.% franklin's journey 
 
 throughout the year, a public stage waggon, runs between it 
 and Philadelphia. 
 
 At the distance of eighteen miles from the town of Nia- 
 gara or Newark, are those reuiarkable Falls in Niagara 
 Kiver, which may justly be ranked amongst the greatest 
 natural curiosities in the known world The road leading 
 from Lake Ontario to Erie runs within a few hundred yards 
 of them. This road, which is within the British dominions, 
 is carried along the top of the lofty steep banks of the river : 
 fbf a considerable way it runs close to their very edge, and 
 in passing along it the eye of the traveller is entertained 
 with a variety of the most grand and beautiful prospects. 
 The river, instead of growing narrow as you proceed up- 
 wards, widens considerably j at the end of nine or ten miles 
 it expands to the breadth of a mile, and here it assumes 
 much the appearance of a lake ; it is inclosed, seemingly on 
 all sides, by high hills, and the current, owing to the great 
 depth of the water, is so gentle as to be scarcely percepti- 
 ble from the top of the banks. It continues thus broad for 
 a mile or two, when on a sudden the waters are contracted 
 between the high hills on each side. From hence up to 
 the falls the current is exceedingly irregular and rapid. 
 At the upper end of this broad part of the river, and nearly 
 at the foot of the banks, is situated a small village, that has 
 been called Quecnstown, but which, in the adjacent country^ 
 is best known by the name of *< The Landing.'* The lake 
 merchant vessels can proceed up to this village with perfect 
 safety, and they commonly do so, to deposit, in the stores 
 there, such goods as are intended to be sent higher up the 
 country, and to receive in return the furs, &c. that have 
 been collected at the various posts on Lakes Huron and 
 Erie, and sent thither to be conveyed down to Kingston, 
 across Lake Ontario. The portage from this place to the 
 nearest navigable part of Niagara River, above ihe Falls, 
 is nine miles in length. 
 
 From the town of Niagara to Quecnstown, the country 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 907 
 
 in the neighbourhood of the river is very level ; out here 
 it puts on a differeut aspect ; a confused range of hille, 
 covered with oaks of mi inimense size, suddenly rises up 
 before you, and the road that winds up the side of them 
 is so steep and rugged, that it is absolutely necessary 
 for the traveller to leave hi3 carriage, if he should be in 
 one, and proceed to the top on foot. Beyond these hills 
 you again come to an unbroken level country ; but the soil 
 here differs materially from that on the opposite side : it 
 consists of a rich dark earth intermixed with clay, and 
 abounding with stones ; whereas, on the side next Lake 
 Onterio, the soil is of a yellowish cast, in some i)laces in- 
 clining to gravel and in others to sand. 
 
 From the brow of one of the hills in this ridge, which 
 overhanjijs (he little village of Queenstown, the eye of the 
 traveller is gratified with one of the finest prospects thatcan 
 be imagined in nature: you stand amidst a clump of large 
 oaks, a little to the left of the road, and looking downwards, 
 perceive, through the branches of the trees with which the 
 hills is clothed, from the summit to the base, the tope of the 
 houses of Queenstown, and in front of the village, the ships 
 moored in the river ; the ships are at least two hundred feet 
 below you, and their masts appear like slender reeds peep- 
 ing up amidst the thick foliage of the trees. Carrying your 
 eye forward, you may trace the river in all its windings, 
 and finally see it disembogue into Lake Ontario, between 
 the town and the fort ; the lake itself terminates your view 
 in this direction, except merely at one part of the horizon, 
 where you just get a glimpse of the blue hills of Toronto. 
 The shore of the river, on the right hand, remains in its 
 natural state, covered with one continual forest ; but on the 
 opposite side the country is interspersed with cultivated 
 fields and neat farm houses down to the water's e{\ge. The 
 country beyond the hills is much less cleared than that 
 which lies toward the town of Niagara, on the navigable 
 part of the river. 
 
398 franklin's journey 
 
 From the sudden change of the face of the country in the= 
 neighbourhood of Queenstown, and the equally sudden 
 change in the river with respect to its breadth, depth and 
 current, conjectures have been formed, that the great falls 
 of the river mast originally have been situated at the spot 
 tvhere the waters are so abruptly contracted between the 
 hills ; and indeed it is highly probable that this v^as the 
 case, for it is a fact well ascertained, that the falls have re- 
 ceded very considerably since they were first visited by 
 Europeans, and that they are still receding every year ; 
 Mr. Weld says, every step we advanced towards them, our 
 expectations rose to a higher pitch ; our eyes were con- 
 tinually on the look out for the column of white mist which 
 hangs over them ; and an hundred times, I believe, did we 
 stop our carriage in hopes of hearing their thundering sound ; 
 neither, however, was the mist to be seen, nor the sound to 
 he heard, when we came to the foot of the hills ; nor after 
 having crossed over them, were our eyes or ears more gratified 
 This occasioned no inconsiderable disappointment, and we 
 could not but express our doubts to each other, that the 
 wondrous accounts we had so frequently heard of the Falls 
 were without foundation, and calculated merely to impose 
 on the minds of credulous people that inhabited a distant 
 part of the world. These doubts were nearly confirmed 
 when we found that after having approached within half a 
 mile of the place, the mist was but just discernable, and that 
 the sound even then was not to be heard ; yet it is never- 
 theless strictly true, that the tremendous noise of the Falls 
 may be distinctly heard, at times, at the distance of forty 
 miles ; and the cloud formed from the spray may be even 
 seen still farther off ; but it is only when the air is very 
 clear, and there is a fine blue sky, which however are com- 
 mon occuirences in this country, that the clouds can be seen 
 at such a great distance. The hearing of the sound of the 
 Falls afar off also depends upon the state of the atmos- 
 phere ; it is observed, that the sound can be heard at tue 
 
THB POLAR SEA. 399 
 
 greatest distance just before a heavy fall of rain, and when 
 the wind is in a favourable point to convey the sound to- 
 ward the listener ; the day on which we first approached 
 the Falls was thick and cloudy. 
 
 On that part of the road leading to Lake Erie which 
 draws nearest to the falls, there is a small village, consisting 
 of about half a dozen straggling houses : here we alighted, 
 and having disposed of our horses, and made a slight repast, 
 in order to prepare us for the fatigue we had to go through, 
 we crossed over some fields towards a deep hollow place 
 surrounded with large trees, from the bottom of which 
 issued thick volumes of whitish mist, that had much the 
 appearance of smoke issuing from large heaps of burning 
 weeds. Having come to the edge of this hollow place, we 
 descended a steep bank of about fifty yards, and then walked 
 for some distance over a wet marshy piece of ground, co- 
 vered with thick bushes, and at last came to the Table Rock, 
 so called from the remarkable flatness of its surface, and its 
 bearing some similitude to a table. This rock is situated 
 a little to the front of the great fall, above the top of which 
 it is elevated about forty feet. The view from it is truly 
 sublime ; but before I attempt to give any idea of the nature 
 of this view, it will be necessary to take a more general 
 survey of the river and falls. 
 
 Niagara River issues from tde eastern extremity of Lake 
 Erie, and after a course of thirty- six miles discharges itself 
 into Lake Ontario. For the first few miles from Lake Erie, 
 the breadth of the river is about three hundred yards, and 
 it is deep enough for vessels drawing nine or ten feet water; 
 but the current is so extremely rapid and irregular, and the 
 channel so intricate, on account of the numberless large 
 rocks in different places, that no other vessels than bateaux 
 -ever attempt to pass along it. As you proceed downward 
 the river widens, no rocks are to be seen either along the 
 shores or in the channel, and the waters glide smoothly 
 along, though the current continues very strong. The river 
 
400 FRANKLINS JOURNEY 
 
 runs thus evenly, and is navi^ruble with safety for bateaux 
 as far as Fort Chippeway, which is about three miles above 
 the falls ; but here the bed of it again becomes rocky, and 
 the waters are violently agitated by passing down succes- 
 sive rapids, so much so indeed, that were a boat by any 
 chance to be carried a little way beyond Chippeway, where 
 people usually stop, nothing could siive it from being dashed 
 to pieces long bc^fore it came to the falls. With siich as- 
 tonishing impetuosity do the waves break on the rocks in 
 these rapids, that the mere sight of them from the top of 
 the banks is sufficient to make you shudder. I must in this 
 place^ however, observe, that it is not only on each side of 
 the river that the waters are so much troubled; in the 
 middle of it, though the current is also there uncommonly 
 swift, yet the breakers are not so dangerous but boats may 
 pass down, if dexterously managed, to an island which 
 divides the river at the very falls. To go down to this 
 island it is necessary to set off at some distance above Ghip^ 
 peway^ where the current is even, and to keep exactly in 
 the middle of the river the whole way thither ; if the boats 
 were suffered to get out of their course ever so little, either 
 to the right or left, it would be impossible to stem the cur- 
 rent, and bring them again into it; they would beirresisti- 
 bly carried towards the falls, and destruction iftust ijievit- 
 ably follow. In returning from the island there is still 
 more difficulty and danger than in going to it. Notwith- 
 Btauding these circumstances, numbers of persons have the 
 foolhardiness to proceed to this island, merely for the sake 
 of beholding the falls from the opposite side of it, or for the 
 sake of having it in their power to say that they had been 
 uport it. 
 
 The river forces its way amidst the rocks with redou4>led 
 impetuosity, as it approaches towards the falls; iat kst 
 coming to the brink of the tremendous precipice, it tumbled 
 headlong to the bottom, without meeting with any inter- 
 ruption from rocks in its descent. Just at the precipice 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 401 
 
 the river takes a considerable bend to the right, and the line 
 of the falls, instead of extending from bank to bank in the 
 shortest direction, runs obliquely across. The width of the 
 falls is considerably greater than the width of the river, 
 measured below the precipice. The river does not rush 
 down the precipice in one unbroken sheet, but it is divided 
 by islands into three distinct collateral falls. The most 
 stupendous of these is that on the north-western or British 
 side of the river, commonly called the Great, or Horse-shoe 
 FaL, from its hearing some resemblance to the shape of a 
 horse-shoe. The height of this is only one hundred and 
 forty-two feet, whereas the others are each one hundred and 
 sixty feet high ; but to its inferior height it is indebted 
 priocipally for its grandeur; the precipice, and of couise 
 the bed of the river above it, being so much lower at the 
 one side than at the other, by far the greater part of the 
 water of the river finds its way to the low side, and rushes 
 down with greater velocity at that side than it does at the 
 other, as the rapids above the precipice are strongest there. 
 It is from the centre of the Horse-shoe Fall that arises that 
 prodigious cloud of mist which may be seen so far off. The 
 extent of the Horse-shoe Fall can only be ascertained by 
 the eye ; the general opinion of those who have most fre- 
 quently viewed it is, that it is not less than six hundred 
 yards in circumference. The island which separates it from 
 the next fall is supposed to be about three hundred and fifty 
 yards wide ; the second fall is about five yards wide ; the 
 next island about thirty yards; and the third, commonly 
 called the Fort Schloper Fall, from being situated towards 
 the side of the river on which that fort stands, is adjudged 
 to measure at least as much as the large island. The whole 
 extent of the precipice, therefor^ including the islands, is^ 
 according to this computation, thirteen hundred and thirty- 
 five yards. This is certainly not an exaggerated statement. 
 Some have supposed, that the line of the falls altogether 
 exceeJs an English mile. The quantity of water carried 
 P. V. 17. F F F 
 
40:^ FRANKLIN'S JOURNEY 
 
 i\oWn the faliiJ is prodigious, ft will be found to amount td 
 670,255 tons per minute, though calculated simply from the 
 following data, which ought to be correct, as coming from 
 an experienced commander of one of tlie King's ships on 
 Lake Krie, well acquainted in every respect with that body 
 of wat^r, viz. that where Lake Erie, towards its eastern ex-- 
 tremity^ is two miles and a half wide, the water is six feet 
 deep, find the current runs at the rate of two knots in an 
 hour; but Niagara river, between this part of Lake Erie 
 •and the falls, receives the waters of several large creeks, 
 the quantity carried down the falls must therefore be greater 
 than the foregoing computation makes it to be; if we say 
 that six hundred and seventy-two thousand tons of water are 
 p4ecipitated down the falls every minute, the quantity will 
 not probably be much over- rated. 
 
 To return now to tlie Table Rock, situated on the British^ 
 side of the river, and on the verge of tlie Horse-shoe Fall, 
 Here the spectator has an unobstructed view of the tre-' 
 mendous rapids above the falls, and of the circumjacent* 
 shores, covereil with thick woods ; of the Horse-shoe Fall, 
 some yards below him ; of the Fort Schloppr Fall, at a dis- 
 tance to the left ; and of the. frightful gulph beneath, into 
 which, if be has but courage to approach to the exposed edge^ 
 of the rock, he may look down perpendicularly. The as- 
 tonishment excited in the mind of the spectator by the vaSft- 
 ness of the different objects which he contemplates from 
 henco is great indeed, and few persons, on coming here for 
 the first time, can for some minutes collect themselves suffi«> 
 ciently to be able to form any tolerable conception of the 
 stupendous scene before them. It is impossible for the eye^ 
 to embrace the whole of it at once ; it must gradually make? 
 itself acquainted, in the first place, with the component parts> 
 ot the scene, each one of which is in itself an object of 
 wonder; and such a length of time does this operation re- 
 qiiir^, that many of those who have had an opportunity of 
 <*otemplatiug the scene at, t^ieir leisure, for years together,. 
 
TO tHH FOLAtt SEA. 40o 
 
 h'afe thought that every time they beheld it, each part has 
 appeared more wunderful and more sublime^ and that it liats 
 only been at the time of their last visit that they have been 
 able to discover all the grandeur of the cataract. 
 
 Having spent a considerable time on the Table Rock, we 
 returned to the fields the same way by which we had de- 
 scended, pursuant to the direction of the officer of engineers 
 accompanying us, who was intimately acquainted with every 
 part of the cataract, and of the adjoining groynd, and wag 
 j)erhaps, the best guide that could be jirocurtd iu the whole 
 cuiiittry. It would be possible to pursue your way aloHg the 
 edge of the cliff, from the Table Rock, a considerable way 
 downwards ; but the bushes are so exceedingly thick, and 
 the ground so rugged, that the task would bo arduous in the 
 extreme. 
 
 The next ^pot from which we surveyed the fulls, was from, 
 the part of the cliff nearly opposite to that end of Uie B'ort 
 Schlop(M' Fall which lies next to the island. You stand 
 here on the ei]^e of the cliff, behin<l some bushes, the tops 
 of which have been cut down in order to open the view. 
 From hence you hare a better prospect of (he whole cataract^, 
 and are enabled to form a more correct idea of the position 
 of the precipice, than from any other place. The prospect 
 from hence is more beautiful, but I think less grand than 
 from any other spot. The officer who so politely directed 
 our movements on this occasion was so struck with tlie view, 
 that he once had a wooden house constructed, and drawn 
 down here by oxen, in which he Hved until he had finished 
 several different drawings of the cataract : one of these 
 we were gratified with the sight of, which exhibited a view 
 of the cataract in the depth of winter, when in a most curi- 
 ous and wonderful state. The ice in winter accumulates at 
 the bottom of the cataract in immense mounds, and huge 
 icicles, like the pillars of a massy building, hang pendant lii 
 many places from the top of the precipice, reaching nearly 
 to the bottom. 
 
 F F F 2 
 
404 franklin's journey. 
 
 Havine^ left this place, we returned once more through 
 the woods bordering upon the precipice to the open fields, 
 and then directed our course by a circuitous path, about one 
 mile in length, to a part of the cliff where it is possible to 
 descend to the bottom of the cataract. The river, for many 
 miles below the precipice, is bounded on each side by steep, and 
 in most parts perpendicular cliffs, formed ofearth and rocks, 
 and it is impossible to descend to the bottom of them, except 
 at two places, where large masses of earth and rocks have 
 crumbled down, and ladders have been placed from one break 
 to another, for the accommodation of passengers. The first 
 of these places which you come to in walking along the river, 
 from the Horse-shoe Fall downwards, is called the '* Indian 
 Ladder,** the ladders having been construeted there by th<* 
 Indians. These ladders, as they are called, of which there 
 are several, one below the other, consist simply of long pine 
 trees, with notches cut in their sides, for the passenger to 
 rest his feet on. The trees, even when first placed there, 
 would vibrate as you stepped upon them, owing to their 
 being so long and slender ; age has rendered them still less 
 firm, and they now certainly cannot be deemed safe, though 
 many persons are still in the habit of descending by their 
 means. We did not attempt to get to the bottom of the 
 cliff by this route, but proceeded to the other place, which is 
 lower down the river, called Mrs. Simcoe's Ladder, the 
 ladders having been originally placed there for the accom- 
 modation of the lady of the governor. This route is much 
 more frequented than the other ; the ladders, properly so 
 called, are strong, and firmly placed, and none of them, 
 owing to the frequent breaks in the cliff, are required to be 
 of such a great length but what even a lady might pass up 
 or down them without fear of danger. To descend over the 
 rugged rocks, however, the whole way down to the bottom 
 of the cliff, is certainly no trifling undertaking, and few 
 ladies, I believe, could be found of sufficient strength of 
 body to encounter the fatigue of such an expedition. 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 405 
 
 On arriving at the bottom of the cliff, you find yourself in 
 the midst of huge piles of mis-shapen rocks, with great 
 masses of earth and rocks projecting from the side of the 
 cliffy and OTergrown with pines and cedars hanging over your 
 head, apparently ready to crumble down and crush you to 
 atoms. Many of the large trees grow with their heads 
 downwards, being suspended by their roots, which had taken 
 such a firm hold in the ground at the top of the cliif, that 
 when part of it gave way the trees did not fall altogether. 
 The river before you here is somewhat more than a quarter 
 of a mile wide ; and on the opposite side of it, a little to the 
 right, the Fort Schloper Fall, is seen to great advantage : 
 what you see of the Horse-shoe Fall also appears in a very 
 favourable point of view ; the projecting cliff conceals nearly 
 one half of it. The Fort Schloper Fall, is skirted at bottom 
 by milk white foam, which ascends in thick volumes from 
 the rocks ; but it is not seen to rise above the fall like 
 a cloud of smoke, as is the case at the Horse-shoe Fall ; 
 nevertheless the spray is so considerable, that it descends on 
 the opposite side of the river, at the foot of Simcoe^s Lad- 
 der, like rain. 
 
 Having reached the margin of the river, we proceeded 
 towards the Great Fall, along the strand, which for a con- 
 siderable part of the way thither consists of horizontal beds 
 of limestone rock, covered with gravel, , except, indeed, 
 where great piles of stone have fallen from the sides of the 
 cliff. These horizontal beds of rocks, in some places, extend 
 very far into the river, forming points which break the force 
 of the current, and occasion strong eddies along particular 
 parts of the shore. Here great numbers of the bodies of 
 fishes, squirrels, foxes, and various other animals, unable 
 to stem the current of the river above the falls, have been 
 carried tlown the precipice. The timber is generally terribly 
 shattered, and the carcases of all the large animals, parti- 
 (Milarly of the large fishes, are found very much bruiaed. A 
 dreadful stench arises from the quantity of putrid matter 
 
406 franiclin's journey 
 
 l^iiig on the shore, and numberless bird« of prey, attracted 
 by it, are always seen hovering round the place. 
 
 Amongst the many numerous stories current in the coun- 
 try, relating to this wonderful cataract^ there is one that, 
 records the hapless fate of a poor Indian, which I select, as 
 the truth is unquestionable. The unfortunate hero of this 
 tale, intoxicated, it seems, with spirits, had laid himself 
 down to sleep at the bottom of his canoe, which was fastened 
 to the beach at the distance of some miles above the falls* 
 His squaw sat on the shore to watch him. Whilst they 
 were in this situation, a sailor from one of the ships of war 
 on the neighbouring lakes happened to pass by ; he waa 
 struck with the charms of the squaw, and instantly deter- 
 mined upon enjoying them. The faithful creature, however, 
 unwilling to gratify bis desires, hastened to the canoe to 
 arouse her husband ; but before she could effect her purpose, 
 the sailor cut the cord by which the canoe was fastened, and 
 set it adrift. It quickly floated away with the stream from 
 the fatal spot, and ere many minutes elapsed, was carried 
 down into the midst of the rapids. Here it was distinctly 
 seen by several persons that were standing on the adjacent 
 shore, whose attention had been caught by the singularity of 
 the appearance of a canoe in such a part of the river. The 
 violent motion of the waves soon awoke the Indian; he 
 started up, looked wildly around, and perceiving his danger, 
 instantly seized his paddle, and made the most surprising 
 exertions to save himself ; but finding in a little time that ail 
 his efforts would be of no avail in stemming the impetuosity 
 of the current, he with j>reat composure put aside his paddle, 
 wrapt himself up in his blanket, and again laid himself down 
 in the bottom of the canoe. In a few seconds he was hur*- 
 ried down the precipice, but neither he nor his canoe were 
 ever seen more. It is supposed that not more than one- 
 third of the different things that happen to be carried down 
 the falls i'e-appear at the bottom. 
 
 From the foot of Simcpe's Ladder you may waik along the 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 407 
 
 9tran(l for some distance without inconveuience ; but as you 
 approach the Horse-shoe Fall, the way becomes more and 
 more rug'ged. In some places where the cliif has crumbled; 
 down, huge mounds of earth, rocks, and tre<^s, reaching- Uy 
 the water's edge, oppose your course ; it seems impossible tO) 
 pass them ; and indeed, without a guide, a stranger would 
 never find his wny to the opposite si<le ; for to get there it 
 is necessary to mount nearly to their top, and then to crawl 
 on your hands and knees through long dark holes, where, 
 passages are left open between the torn up rocks and tre^s.' 
 After passing these mounds, you have to chmb from rock to. 
 rock close undi r the cliff, for there is but little space liere. 
 between the cliff and the river, and these rocks are so; 
 slippery, owing to the continual moisture from the spray^ 
 which descends very heavily, without the utmost precaution 
 it is scarcely possible to escape a fall. At the distance of a 
 <|uarter of a mile from the Great Fall we Were as wet, owing, 
 to the spray, as if es^ch had been thrown into the river. 
 
 There is nothing whatsoever to ])revent you from passing* 
 to the foot of the Great Fall ; and you mi^ht even prooeedi 
 behind the prodigious sheet oi' water that comes pouring' 
 down from the top of the precipice, for the water falls froiii) 
 ttie eilge of a projecting rock ; and, moreover, caverns of tu 
 very considerable size have been hollowed out of the rocks 
 at the bottom of the precipice, owing to the violent ebullition 
 of the water, which extends soine way underneath the bed 
 of the upper part of the river. I a<lvanced within about six 
 yards of the edge of the sheet of water, just far enough to 
 peep into the caverns behind it ; but here my breath was- 
 nearly taken away by the violent wirlwind that always 
 rages at the bottom of the cataraet, occasioned by the con-f 
 cussion of such a vast body of water against the rocks. I 
 confess I had no inclination at the time to go farther; nor^i 
 indeed, any of us afterwards attempted to explore the 
 dreary confines of these caverns, where death seemed to 
 await him that should be daring enough to enter their threat* 
 
408 prank1.in's journey 
 
 ening jaws. No words can convey an adequate idea of the 
 grandeur of the scene at this place. Your senses are ap- 
 palled by the sight of the immense body of water that comes 
 pouring down so closely to you from the top of the stupend- 
 ous precipice, and by the thundering sound of the billows 
 dashing against the rocky sides of the caverns below ; you 
 tremble with reverential fear, when you consider that a blast 
 of the whirlwind might sweep you from off the slippery 
 rocks on which you stand, and precipitate you into the dread- 
 ful gulph beneath, from whence all the power of man could 
 not extricate you ; you feel what an insignificant being you 
 are in the creation, and your mind is forcibly impressed with 
 an awful idea of the power of that mighty Being who com- 
 manded the waters to flow. 
 
 Since the Falls of Niagara were first discovered they have 
 receded very considerably, owing to the disrupt u re of the 
 rocks which form the precipice. The rocks at bottom are 
 first loosened by the constant action of water upon them; 
 they are afterwards carried away, and those at top being 
 thus undermined, are soon broken by the weight of the 
 water rushing over them ; even within the memory of many 
 of the present inhabitants of the country, the falls have re- 
 ceded several yards. The commodore of the King's vessels on 
 Lake Erie, who had been employed on that lake for upwards 
 of thirty years, said, that when he first came into the country 
 it was a common practice for young men to go to the island 
 in the middle of the falls ; that after dining there, they used 
 frequently to dare each other to walk into the river towards 
 certain large rocks in the midst of the rapids, not far from 
 the edge of the falls ; and sometimes to proceed through the 
 water, even beyond these rocks. No such rocks are to be 
 seen at present ; and were a man to advance two yards into 
 the river from the island, he would be inevitably swept away 
 by the torrent. It has been conjectured, that the Falls of 
 Niagara werepriginally situated at Queenstown ; and indeed 
 the more pains you take to examine the course of the river 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA, 409 
 
 from the present falls downward, the more reason is there to 
 imagine that such a conjecture is well founded. From the 
 precipice nearly down to Queenstown, the bed of the river 
 is strewed with large rocks, and the banks are broken and 
 rugged ; circumstances which plainly denote that some great 
 disruption has taken place along this part of the river : and 
 we need be at no loss to account for it, as there are evident 
 marks of the action of water upon the sides of the banks, 
 and considerably above their present bases. Now the river 
 has never been known to rise near these marks during the 
 greatest floods ; it is plain, therefore, that its bed must have 
 been once much more elevated than it is at present. Below 
 Queenstown, however, there are no traces on the banks to 
 lead us to imagine that the level of the water was ever nmch 
 higher there than it is now. The sudden increase of the 
 depth of the river just below the hills at Queenstown, and 
 its sudden expansion there at the same time, seem to indi- 
 cate that the waters must for a great length of time have 
 fallen from the top of the hills, and thus have formed that 
 extensive deep basin below the village. In the river, a mile 
 or two above Queenstown, there is a tremendous whirlpool, 
 owing to a deep hole in the bed ; this hole was probably also 
 formed by the waters falling for a great length of time on the 
 same spot, in consequence of the rocks which composed the 
 then precipice having remained firmer than those at any 
 other place did. Tradition tells us, that the great fall, in- 
 stead of having been in the form of a horse-shoe, once pro- 
 jected in the middle. For a century past, however, it has 
 remained nearly in the present form ; and as the ebullition 
 of the water at the bottom of the cataract is so much greater 
 at the centre of this fall than in any other part, and as 
 the water consequently acts with more force there in under- 
 mining the precipice than at any other part, it is not unlikely 
 that it may remain nearly in the same form for ages to 
 come. 
 
 At the bottom of the Horse-shoe Fall is found a kind of 
 P. V. 18. G G o 
 
410 FEANKL1N*S JOVRNEY 
 
 white eancrete substance, by the people of t4ie connirf^ 
 caMeil spray. Some persons have supposed that it is formed 
 from eartlily particles of the water, which descendinir? 
 owing^ to their threat specific gravity, quicker than the other 
 particies, adhere to the rocks, and are there formed into a 
 mass. This concrete substance has precisely the appear- 
 ance of petrified froth ; and it is remarkable that it is found 
 adhering to those rocks against which the greatest quantity 
 of the froth that floats upon the water, is waslied by the eddies. 
 
 We did not think of ascending the cliff till the evening 
 was far advanced, and had it been possible to have found 
 our way up in the tlark, I verily believe we should have 
 remai<ned at the bottom of it until midnight. Just as we 
 left the foot of the great fall the sun broke through the 
 clouds, and one of the most beautiful and perfect rainbows 
 that ever I beheld was exhibited in the spray that arose 
 from the fall. It is only at evening and morning that the 
 rainbow is seen in perfection ; for the banks of the river, 
 and the steep precipice, shade the sun from the spray at the 
 battom of the fall in the middle of the day. 
 
 The Falls of Niagara are much less difficult of access 
 now than they were some years ago; Charlevoix, who 
 visited them in the year 1720, tells us, that they were only 
 to be viewed from one spot ; and that from thence the spec- 
 tator had only a side prospect of them. Had he been able 
 to have descended to the bottom, he would have had ocular 
 demonstration of the existence of caverns underneath the 
 precipice, which he supposed to be the case from the hollow 
 sound of the falling of the waters ; from the number of 
 carcases washed up there on different parts of the strand, 
 he would also have been convinced of the truth of a cir- 
 cumstance which he totally disbelieved, namely, that fish 
 were oftentimes unable to stem the ra[)id current above the 
 falls, and were consequently carried down the precipice. 
 
 The most favour ble season for visiting the falls is about 
 the middle of September ; for then the woods are seen in all 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 411 
 
 their glory, beautifully variegated with the rich tints of au- 
 tumn ; and the spectator is not then annoyed with vermin. 
 In the summer season you meet with rattle-snakes at every 
 step, and musquitoes swarm so thickly in the air, that to 
 use a common phrase of the country, " you might cut them 
 with a knife." The cold nights in tlie beginning of Sep- 
 tember effectuully banish these noxious animaVs. 
 
 The natives who visit Cumberland House calculate the 
 value of all articles by beaver skins ; a black fox skin or a 
 large bear skin is equal to four beaver skins, and so of all 
 other animals. A fowling piece will purchase fifteen beaver 
 skins, and a coarse woollen blanket is equal to eight skins. 
 These regulations do not bear a correct proportion as to 
 their cost by the trading companies ; but having obtained 
 this standard, their dealings are regulated by tliis rule. 
 
 The Indians obtain credit for their articles in the autumn^ 
 and are to repay by skins which they procure by hunting in 
 the course of the winter. In general they faithfully fulfil 
 their engagements. 
 
 The Hudson's Bay Company have about thirty men at 
 Fort Cumberland, and about tlie same number of women 
 and children. The North-west Comjiany have ^tiWa gi*eater 
 number. Their support is principally fish caught at Beaver 
 Lake, about fifty miles distance, where nearly three thou- 
 sand were caught during the season in wbich Captain Frank- 
 lin's })arty wintered there. 
 
 The greater part of the servants of the company take 
 Indiiu) women for their wives, and their progeny are be- 
 comini; very numerous. There is indeed but little restraint 
 upon their moral conduct; and as there is not the oppor- 
 tunity of much education, they cannot be expected to mani- 
 fest sentiments and ftehngs which are congenial to European 
 manners. Tbe girls are frequently wives at twelve years of 
 age ; and sometimes they sell their wives for a season or 
 altogether, receiving some small articles in exchange. 
 
 Having given a description of the names, character, and 
 G G 6 2 
 
412 franklin's journey 
 
 genera] habits of many of the various tribes scattered over 
 the cold northern parts of America, it will be proper to re- 
 sume the narrative. 
 
 Captain Franklin having determined to proceed during 
 the winter beyond the Great Slave Lake, as stated in the 
 former part of this work, in order to procure such further 
 information as the servants of the Companies resident there 
 might affordi and being furnished with the necessary equip- 
 ments, set out on his journey on the 18th of January, 1820. 
 The party consisted of Captain Franklin, Mr. Back, and 
 John Hepburn. Each individual carried a blanket, a 
 hatchet, a flinty steel and tinder. They had two sledges, 
 ' and two carioles, which is a sledge with a covering of lea- 
 ther affixed so as to embrace the lower part of the body. 
 They wore leathern trowsers, which closed round the mo- 
 cassins or Indian shoes, so as to keep out the snow. The 
 gentlemen who managed the concerns of the two companies 
 provided the dogs which were necessary to draw the sledges, 
 and proper persons to drive them. They also attended to 
 the providing and arrangement of the articles necessary to 
 be taken, which when stowed in the sledges, almost filled 
 them. Three dogs were attached to each sledge, which 
 when filled was rather more than three hundred pounds, 
 and with this the dogs generally proceeded at the rate of 
 about fifteen miles a day. Dr. Richardson, Mr. Hood and 
 Mr. Connolly accompanied the party a short distance, and 
 then returned to Cumberland House, bidding farewell for 
 a season to their companions 
 
 Mr. Mackenzie of the Hudson's Bay Company joined the 
 party with four sledges, having to go to Isle a la Crosse. 
 The snow being deep the party proceeded in a line, so that 
 each followed in the same track. After proceeding about 
 six miles they encamped for the night ; after clearing the 
 ground and covering the place with branches of trees, they 
 spread their blankets upon them, and making a good fire 
 composed themselves to sleep in the open air. 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 413 
 
 Ofl the third day of their journey Ihey were overtaken by 
 Mr. Isbester, belonging to the Hudsoij's Bay Compaiiy, 
 and an Orkney man who was a servant of the Company. 
 Mr. Isbester's province was to collect furs from the Indians. 
 For this purpose he had to seek out the Indians on parts of 
 this dreary waste where it had been previously agreed they 
 should hunt. With this precarious information he went for- 
 ward apparently without concern, although he had not more 
 than a week's provision ; and althougli it frequently occurs 
 that the Indians remove from the appointed places of meet- 
 ing when their efforts are attended with but little success ; 
 indeed he had on a former journey been four days without 
 food either for himself or dogs. 
 
 On the twenty-fourth they met with two dead red deer, 
 at the base of a precipice. It was supposed that they had 
 been driven over the precipice by a party of wolves. It is 
 said that while a herd is quietly grazing, the wolves, 
 w1m> are upon the watch for their prey, will often* assemble 
 in great numbers and so surround the herd, that having no 
 means of escape any other way, they jump from these high 
 cliffs and are often killed by the fall. A wolf this day passed 
 close by the man that was beating the track, but offered no 
 violence. 
 
 On the twenty-sixth, after travelling seventeen miles, they 
 cauie to a deserted house belonging to the Company at 
 Upper Nippeween, where they passed the night; but the 
 dilapidated state of the house, being without doors or win- 
 dows, afforded them so little shelter, that they found the 
 place less comfortable than sleeping in the open air. The 
 following morning was severely cold ; but as there was little 
 wind they did not experience more inconvenience than for- 
 merly, and found that it was not altogether the temperature 
 of the weather, but the force of the wind, which affected their 
 feelings the most. 
 
 In the course of the twenty-seventh the party passed the 
 ruins of an establishment which the traders hud been com- 
 
414 franklin's JULIINI'Y 
 
 pellecl (o abandon through the fraudulent habits of the Stofie 
 Indians, who not only stole all they possibly could, but soiner 
 years previous had murdered the party who resided here. 
 
 On the twenty-ninth the party arrived at a place near the 
 Net-setting River, where there is a figure of tl>eir god 
 Kepoochikawn, which was formerly held in veneration 
 and is still respected. Formerly offerings were made to it 
 in abundance, but the reputation in which this god was held 
 has much declined* By this time the provisions became 
 scarce, and the dogs had been so scantily supplied that they 
 forced open a box, containing various other articles, to pro- 
 cure a small piece of meat which had been placed there for 
 security. 
 
 At day-light on the thirty-first the party renewed their 
 journey, anxious to get to Carlton House, the next station 
 of the Hudson's Bay Company. Here they arrived about 
 noon, and met with a welcome reception from Mr. Prudens, 
 who had charge of the place. „They were quickly supplied 
 with buffalo steaks, to appease their hungry appetites ; and 
 afterwards enjoyed the further comforts of a change of 
 dress, having travelled for fourteen days without possessing 
 the means of doing so. 
 
 Captain Franklin felt disappointed at learning that a party 
 of the Stone Indians had left the house the preceding day, 
 as he was particularly desirous of seeing them ; however he 
 was afterwards so far gratified as to find that every day dur- 
 ing his residence at Carlton House, one or more of these 
 people came there. Their appearance indicated nothing of 
 that ferocity of character which is attributed to them. Their 
 countenances are affable and pleasing, their eyes large and 
 expressive, nose aquiline, teeth white and regular, the 
 forehead bold, the cheek-bones rather high. Their figure 
 is usually good, above the middle siie, with slender, but 
 well proportioned limbs. Tli«ir colour is a light copper, 
 and they have a profusion of very black hair, which hangs 
 over the ears, and shades the face. Their dress, v/hich ia 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 415 
 
 extremely neat and convenient, consists of a vest and trow- 
 8ers of leather fitted to the body ; over these a buifalo robe 
 is thrown gracefully. These dresses are in general cleaned 
 with white mud, a sort of marl, though some use red earth, 
 a kind of bog- iron-ore ; but this colour neither looks so 
 light, nor forms such an agreeable contrast as the white with 
 the black hair of the robe. Their quiver hangs behind them, 
 and in the hand is carried the bow, with an arrow always 
 ready for attack or defence, and sometimes they have a gun ; 
 they also carry a bag containing materials for making a fire, 
 some tobacco, the calumet or pipe, and whatever valuables 
 they possess. This bag is neatly ornamented with porcupine 
 quills. Thus equipped, the Stone Indian bears himself with 
 an air of perfect independence. 
 
 The only articles of European commerce they require in 
 exchange for the meat they furnish to the trading post, are 
 tobacco, knives, ammunition, and spirits, and occasionally 
 some beads, but more frequently buttons, which they string 
 in their hair as ornaments. A successful hunter will proba- 
 bly have two or three dozen of them hanging at equal dis- 
 tances on locks of hair, from each side of the forehead. At 
 the end of these locks, small coral bells are sometimes at* 
 tached, which tingle at every motion of the head, a noise 
 which seems greatly to delight the wearer; sometimes strings 
 of buttons are bound round the head like a tiara : and a 
 bunch of feathers gracefully crowns the head. 
 
 The Stone Indians steal whatever they can, particularly 
 horses ; these animals they maintain are common property, 
 sent by the Almighty for the general use of man, and there- 
 fore may be taken wherever met with ; still they admit the 
 right of the owners to watch them, and to prevent theft if 
 possible. This avowed disposition on their part calls forth 
 the strictest vigilance at the different posts ; notwithstand- 
 ing which the most daring attacks are often made with suc- 
 cesSy sometimes on parties of three or four, but oftener on 
 individuals. About two years ago a baud of thena had the 
 
416 franklin's JpURNBY 
 
 audacity to attempt to take away some horses which were 
 grazing before the gate of the North-west Company's fort ; 
 and, after braving the fire from the few people then at the 
 est ibiishment through the whole day, and returning their 
 shots occaonally, they actually succeeded in their enter- 
 prize. . One man was killed on each side. They usually 
 strip defenceless persons whom they meet of all their gar- 
 ments, but particularly of those which have buttons, and 
 leave them to travel home in that state, however severe the 
 weather. If resistance be expected, they not unfrequently 
 murder before they attempt to rob. The traders, when they 
 travel, invariably keep some men on guard to prevent sur- 
 prise, whilst the others sleep ; and oi'ten practise the strata- 
 gem of lighting a fire at sun-set, which they leave burning, 
 and move on after dark to a more distant encampment — yet 
 these precautions do not always bafQe the depredators. Such 
 is the description of men whom the traders of this river have 
 constantly to guard against. It must require a long resi- 
 dence among them, and much experience of their manners, 
 to overcome the apprehensions their hostility and threats are 
 calculated to excite. Through fear of having their provision 
 and supplies entirely cut off, the traders are often obliged to 
 overlook the grossest offences, even murder, though the 
 delinquents present themselves with unblushing effrontery 
 almost immediately after the fact, and perhaps boast of it. 
 They do not, on detection, consider themselves under any 
 obligation to deliver up what they have stolen without re- 
 ceiving an equivalent. 
 
 The Stone Indians keep in amity with their neighbours 
 the Crees from motives of interest ; and the two tribes unite 
 in determined hostility against the nations dwelling to the 
 westward, which are generally called Slave Indians — a 
 term of reproach applied by the Crees to those tribes against 
 whom they have waged successful wars. The Slave Indians 
 ajre said greatly to resemble the Stone Indians, being equally 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 417 
 
 desperate and daring in their acts of aggression and dis- 
 bonesty towards the traders. 
 
 These parties go to war almost every summer, and some- 
 times muster three or four hundred horsemen on each side. 
 Their leaders, in approaching the foe, exercise all the cau- 
 tion of the most skilful generals ; and whenever either party 
 considers that it has gained the best ground, or finds it can 
 surprise the other, the attack is made. They advance at 
 once to close quarters, and the slaughter is consequently 
 great, though the battle may be short. The prisoners of 
 either sex are seldom spared, but slain on the spot with 
 wanton cruelty. The dead are scalped, and he is consi- 
 dered the bravest person who bears the greatest number of 
 scalps from the field. These are afterwards attached to bis 
 war dress, and worn as proofs of his prowess. The victori- 
 ous party, during a certain time, blacken their faces and 
 every part of their dress in token of joy, and in that state 
 they often come to the establishment, if near, to testify their 
 delight by dancing and singing, bearing all the horrid in- 
 signia of war, to display their individual feats. When iii 
 mourning, they completely cover their dress and hair with 
 white mud. 
 
 On the sixth of February the party accompanied Mr. Pru- 
 dens to an encampment of Cree Indians, about six miles 
 from the house. The largest tent belonged to the chief, 
 who gave them a hearty welcome. Fresh grass was spread 
 on the ground, and buffalo skins placed for them to sit on. 
 After a short conversation the English party invited the 
 Indians to smoke the calumet, upon which others joined the 
 party, and the women and children retired, as was always 
 the custom on such occasions. The calumet having been 
 lighted, on being handed to the chief, he pointed with it to 
 the four cardinal points, and taking three whiffs gave the 
 calumet to the Indian who sat next him ; this person having 
 taken the same number of whiffs handed it to the next and 
 thus it went round. After this some spirits mixed with 
 
 P. V. 18. H H H 
 
418 FRANKLIJ^'s JOUIiNRY 
 
 water were handed to the chief, on receiving which he ad- 
 dressed a prayer to the Great Spirit that he vvouhl cause 
 plenty of buffaloes to come into their pound, that they all 
 might enjoy health, and also other blessings. In the course 
 of his supplications, his conopanions frequently exclaimed 
 aha ! Having concluded his address, he drank of the liquor 
 and j)assed it to the next, and it went round as before. When 
 these ceremonies were concluded, the whole party indulged 
 more freely in smoking and drinking, as suited their inclina- 
 tions. One individual Indian however not indulging in these 
 pursuits, was rediculed for his forbearance ; but it appeared 
 by the statement of the residents at Carlton House, that his 
 conduct as a hunter, and in all his dealings, was most con- 
 sistent and upright, and that his refraining from a participa- 
 tion of these indulgences was in consequence of his convic- 
 tion of their injurious tendency. 
 
 During the above visit some Stone Indians arrived, and 
 were invited to partake of the entertainment. Captain 
 Franklin being considered by these people as a considerable 
 chief, took u])on himself to harangue them on the necessity of , 
 their being kind to the traders, and in being careful to pro- 
 vide them with provisions and skins. He also required them 
 not to commit thefts, and said that if they attended to his ad- 
 vice he would mention their conduct to their Great Father 
 (by which they understand the king of Great Britain), and 
 that in so doing they would acquire his esteem and friend- 
 ship. To this advice they all attentively listened and pro- 
 mised to pay due attention to it. 
 
 Having finished this address, the Enghsh party went to 
 visit different tents and also the buffalo pound* 
 
 This pound was a fenced circular space of about a hundred 
 yards in diameter ; the entrance was banked up with snow, 
 to asufiicient height to prevent the retreat of the animals that 
 once have etUered. For about a mile on each side of the 
 road leading to the pound, stakes were driven into the ground 
 at nearly equal distances of about twenty yards ; these vvere. 
 
fO THE rOLAR SEA. 41 D 
 
 intended to represent men, and to deter the aniinalsj from 
 attempting to break out on either side. Witliin fifty or sixty 
 yards from the pound, branches of trees were placed between 
 these stakes to screen the Indians, who lie down behind 
 them to await the approach of the buffalo. 
 
 The principal dexterity in this species of chase is shewn 
 by the horsemen, who have to manoeuvre round the herd 
 in the plains so as to urge them to enter the broad way, which 
 is about a quarter of a mile broad. When this has been 
 accomplished, they raise loud shouts, and. pressing close 
 upon the animals, so terrify them that they rush heedlessly 
 forward toward the snare. When they have ad vaiiced as 
 far as the men who are lying in ambush, they also rise, and 
 increase the consternation by violent shouting andfiringguns. 
 The affrighted beasts having no alternative, run directiy to 
 the pound, where they are quickly despatched, cither with 
 an arrow or gun. 
 
 Other modes of killing the buffalo are practised with suc- 
 cess. A hunter mounted on horseback, on seeing a herd of 
 buffalos, will select one individual and strive to separate him 
 from the rest. When he hath accomplished this, he will pre- 
 vent his joining the herd again, and when he finds that he 
 has approached sufficiently near he fires at the beast and it is 
 seldom he misses wounding the animal. Considerable dan- 
 ger accompanies this pursuit ; for when closely pressed the 
 buffalo will turn suddenly upon his pursuer, attack the horse 
 and sometimes dismount the rider. Another mode of kil- 
 ling the buffalo is by approaching the herd on foot, unper- 
 ceived, which requires much caution, as if the j)er6on be 
 noticed they take to flight. This animal is of an uncouth 
 shape, with shaggy curling hair about the head, especially 
 in the bull buffalo. 
 
 A party of Stone Indians being encamped in this neigh- 
 bourhood, several of the party expressed a wish to pay the rn 
 a visit, but were dissuaded by the traders informing them 
 
 1Jhh2 
 
420 franklin's journey 
 
 that they were suffering under the hooping cough and mea- 
 sles, which the Indians believed to have been introduced 
 among them by some of the people belonging to the Com- 
 pany : in which case it was not improbable that these savages 
 might seek revenge by the death of some of the party. 
 These diseases had carried off nearly three hundred of the 
 Indians. 
 
 Carlton House is situated on a flat ground within a short 
 distance of the river. The land produces wheat, barley, 
 potatoes and oats. The object of this station is to obtain a 
 depot of provisions, which is converted into pemmican and 
 forms the principal support of those agents of the Company 
 who pass this way. The mode of making pemmican is as fol- 
 lows : tlie wheat is dried by a fire or in the sun ; it is then 
 pounded, and the proportion of one third of melted fat is 
 added to it and well mixed. It is then put into leathern bag» 
 and closely pressed down, after which it is put into a cool place 
 to be used as emergencies may require. In this state it will 
 remain fit for use for a year and sometimes for a much 
 greater length of time. At La Montee, adjoining Carlton 
 House, the station of the North-west Company, there were 
 about one hundred and thirty persons, men, women and 
 children, who consumed upwards of seven hundred pounds 
 of buffalo meat daily. Each man had an allowance of eight 
 pounds. It must be noticed however that they had no corn 
 or vegetables. 
 
 Having rested for a few days at Carlton House, on the 
 ninth of February the party set forwards on their journey to 
 Isle a la Crosse. They received from the agents of both the 
 Hudson's Bay and North-west Company, such a supply of 
 provisions and other necessaries as they required. On the 
 tenth, after ascending a hill and passingthrough a wood, they 
 came in view of Lake Iroquois. On their road they came 
 to the remains of an Indian hut, adjoining to which was a 
 pile of wood. The Canadian Indians belonging to the 
 party, supposing that provisions were buried under the 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 421 
 
 pile, tletennined to search for them ; but instead of provi- 
 sions they found the body of a female wrapped in leather, 
 and which apparently had not been long interred. A fishing 
 line, a hatchet, a dish and the clothes she had formerly worn, 
 were placed beside the body. On the fourteenth they came 
 to a beaten track, and soon met an Indian of the Iroquois 
 nation who belonged to a party that were procuring pro- 
 visions and furs for the North-west Company. On arriv- 
 ing at the place where his stores were preserved, he 
 invited the j>arty to spend the day, which however they 
 declined The Canadians, whose voracious appetites were 
 always craving, received a present from him before they 
 parted. One of the sledges had been so much broken as to 
 become useless, and the loading was divided among the others. 
 The s:nne day they fell into another track, which shortly 
 brought them to some Indian huts of the Cree nation, who 
 were hunting fur beavers. 
 
 On the sixteenth they met an Indian and his family who 
 had just left Green Lake ; and as they described the road as 
 well beaten, Captain Franklin and his party resolved to 
 attempt reaching it before they encamped ; but notwithstand- 
 ing their utmost efforts they were not able to reach this post 
 until the following day to breakfast. On their arrival they 
 were very kindly received by Mr. Macfarlane, who was in 
 charge of the house occupied by the Hudson's Bay Com- 
 j)any. The party afterwards paid a visit to Mr. Dugald 
 Cameron, who resided at a station occu|)ied by the North- 
 west Company on the opposite side of the river. This gen- 
 tleman received the party with expressions of the greatest 
 kindness, and honoured them with a salute of small arms. 
 
 These establishments are small, but said to be well situated 
 for procuring furs ; as the numerous creeks in their vicinity 
 are much resorted to by the beaver, otter, and musquash. 
 The residents usually obtain a superabundant supply of pro- 
 vision. This season, however, they barely had sullicient for 
 their own support, owing to an epidemic whicli iiica])acitated 
 
422 I'^ R A N K L I N 'S JUV U ^l I. Y 
 
 the Indians for huntinj^. The Green Lake lies p.early iiortfr 
 and south, is eighteen miles in length, and docs not esoced 
 one iiule and a half of breadth in any part. The water is 
 deep, and it is in consequence one of the last lakes in the 
 country that is frozen. Excellent tittameg and trout are 
 caught in it from March to December, but after that time 
 most of tlie fish remove to some larger lake. 
 
 The party remained two days waiting the return of some 
 men whohad been sent to the Indian lodges for meat. They 
 dined with Mr. Cameron, and received from him many 
 useful suggestions respecting their future operations. This 
 gentleman having stated that provisions would, probably, be 
 very scarce next spring in the Athabasca department, in 
 consequence of the sickness of the Indians during the hunt- 
 ing season, undertook to cause a supply of pemmican to be 
 conveyed from the Saskatchawan to Isle a la Crosse for use 
 during winter, and Captain Franklin wrote to apprize Dr. 
 Richardson and Mr. Hood, that they would find it at the 
 latter post when they passed •, and also to desire them to 
 bring as much as the canoes would stow from Cumberland. 
 On the twentieth, having been supplied with provisions 
 and all necessary articles, the party set forward on their 
 journey. On taking their departure they were honoured 
 with a salute of fire arms, which were fired by the females, 
 the men being all absent. They found the advantageof the 
 necessary articles they had just received at the Green Lake ; 
 and wrapped up in their buffalo skins, and seated in their 
 carioles, or sledges, they proceeded on their journey through 
 the whole of the day, notwithstanding the weather was ex- 
 tremely cold 
 
 On the twenty-third they received a supply of provisions, 
 which Mr. Clark, the resident agent of the Hudson's Bay 
 Company at Lake a. la Crosse, had sent for them, which 
 place they reached the same evening. Mr. Clark gave the 
 party a most hearty welcome, receiving them under a fire of 
 small arras; and Mr. Bethune, who was in charge of a 
 
TO THK POLAR SEA. 423 
 
 house occupied by the North-west Company, manifested an 
 equally kind disposition. 
 
 These establishments are situated on the southern side of 
 the lake, and close to each other. They are forts of con- 
 siderable importance, being placed at a point of communi- 
 cation with the English River, the Athabasca, and Colum- 
 bia districts. The country around them is low, and inter- 
 sected with water, and was formerly much frequented by 
 beavers and otters, which, however, have been so much 
 hunted by the Indians, that their number is greatly decreas- 
 ed. The Indians frequenting these forts are the Crees and 
 some Chipewyans ; they scarcely ever come except in the 
 spring and autumn ; in the former season to bring their 
 winter's collection of furs, and in the latter to get the stores 
 they require. 
 
 Three Chipewyan lads arrived during their stay, to report 
 what furs the band to which they belonged had collected, and 
 to desire they might be sent for ; the Indians having de- 
 clined bringing either furs or meat themselves, since the 
 opposition between the Companies commenced. 
 
 Isle a la Crosse Lake receives its name from an island 
 situated near the forts, on which the Indians formerly as- 
 sembled annually to amuse themselves at the game of the 
 Cross. It is justly celebrated for abundance of the finest 
 tittameg, which weigh from five to fifteen pounds. The re- 
 sidents live principally upon this most delicious fish, which 
 fortunately can be eaten a long time without disrelish. It is 
 plentifully caught with nets throughout the year, except for 
 two or three months. 
 
 On the 5th they recommenced their journey, having been 
 supplied with the means of conveyance bj both the Com- 
 panies in equal proportions. Mr. Clark accompanied the 
 party with the intention of going as far as the boundary of 
 bis district. This gentleman was an experienced winter 
 traveller, and caused the men to arrange the encampment 
 
424 franklin's journby 
 
 with more attention to comfort and shelter than their former 
 companions had done. 
 
 On the seventh of March they arrived at a house belong- 
 ing to the North-west Company and received a hearty wel- 
 come from Mr. Mac Murray, one of the partners. This post 
 is frequented by only a few Crees and Chipewyans. The 
 country round is not sufficiently stocked with animals to afford 
 support to many families, and the traders subsist almost 
 entirely upon fish caught in the autumn, prior to the lake 
 being frozen ; but the water being shallow, they remove to a 
 deeper part, as soon as the lake is covered with ice. 
 
 Mr. Mac Murray gave a dance to his voyagers and the 
 women ; a treat which they expect on the arrival of any 
 stranger at the post. 
 
 On the tenth the party set forward on their journey, and 
 following in a beaten path made considerable progress. 
 Passing the Methye Lake, they came to a trading post occu- 
 pied by some of the hunters. On the thirteenth Mr. Clark 
 took his leave of the party, and set out on his return to his 
 residence near Isle a la Crosse. Crossing a small lake, they 
 gradually ascended hills beyond it, until they arrived at the 
 summit of a lofty chain of mountains commanding the most 
 picturesque and romantic prospects. Two ranges of high 
 hills ran parallel to each other for several miles, until the 
 faint blue haze hid their particular characters, when they 
 slightly changed their course, and were lost to the view. 
 The space between them is occupied by nearly a level plain, 
 through which a river pursues a meandering course, and re- 
 ceives supplies from the creeks and rills issuing from the 
 mountains on each side. The prospect was delighful even 
 amid the snow, and though marked with all the cheerless 
 characters of winter. 
 
 Crossing the Cascade Portage, which is the last on the 
 way to the Athabasca Lake, they came to some Indian tents, 
 containing five families, belonging to the Chipewyan tribe. 
 
ro THE POLAH SEA; 425 
 
 They smoked the calumet in tlie chief^s tent, whose name 
 was the Thumb, and distributed some tobacco and a weak 
 mixture of spirits and water among the men. They received 
 this civility with much less grace than the Crees, and seemed 
 to consider it a matter of course. There was an utter Jieglect 
 of cleanliness, and a total want of comfort in their tents; 
 and the poor creatures were miserably clothed. Mr. Frazer, 
 who accompanied Captain Franklin from the Methye Lake, 
 accounted for their being in this forlorn condition by ex- 
 plaining, that this band of Indians had recently destroyed 
 every thing they possessed, as a token of their great grief for 
 the loss of tlieir relatives in the prevailing sickness. It 
 appears that no article is spared by these unhappy men 
 when a near relative dies ; their clothes and tents are cut to 
 pieces, their guns broken, and every other weapon rendered 
 useless, if some person do not remove these articles from 
 their sight, which is seldom done. M r. Back sketched one 
 of the children, which delighted the father very much, who 
 charged the boy to be very good since his picture had been 
 drawn by a great chief. 
 
 On the 16th tbey came to some Indian lodges, which be- 
 longed to an old Chipewyan chief, named the Sun, and his 
 family, consisting of five hunters, their wives and children. 
 They were delighted to see the party, and when the object 
 of the expedition had been explained to them, expressed 
 themselves much interested in the progress. The party 
 smoked with them, and gave each person a glass of mixed 
 spirits and some tobacco. A Canadian servant of the North- 
 west Company, who was residing with them, said that this 
 family had lost numerous relatives, and that the destruction 
 of property, which had been made after their deaths, was 
 the only cause for the pitable condition in which they now 
 were, as the whole family were industrious hunters, and 
 therefore, were usually better provided with clothes, and 
 other useful articles, than most of the Indians. They pur- 
 chased a pair of snow shoes^ in exchange for some ammuni« 
 
 P. V. 18. Ill 
 
426 
 
 tion. The Chipewyans are celebrated for making them good 
 and easy to walk in ; some were upwards of six feet long, and 
 three broad. With these unwieldly clogs an active hunter, 
 in the spring, when there is a crust on the surface of the 
 snow, will run down a moose or red deer. 
 
 On the 18th they met two persons belonging to the es- 
 tablishment at Pierre au Calumet ; and following the track, 
 proceeded with expedition, although the weather was stormy, 
 and on the following day arrived at the station occupied by 
 the North-west Company. Mr. Stuart, one of the partners, 
 resided at this post, and received the party with marks of 
 great kindness. This gentleman having travelled across the 
 country until he reached the Pacific Ocean, was well quali- 
 fied to give advice with respect to the best modes of travel- 
 ling, and' to state the obstacles in the way. His passage to 
 the Pacific had been by the river Columbia, so that he was 
 notucquainted with the road Captain Franklin was now pur- 
 suing farther than the Great Slave Lake, His opinion was, 
 however, that satisfactory information might be obtained from 
 the Indians residing on the western side of the Great Slave 
 Lake, who visited the forts in the spring. Mr. Stuart said 
 that it was not very likely any of the Canadians would be 
 prevailed on to accompany the Captain to the sea, as the 
 Esquimaux were very hostile, and had killed a party who 
 were sent to open a traffic with them ; he said, however, 
 that every endeavour should be used on his part to aid the 
 purposes of the expedition. 
 
 Pierre au Calumet receives its name from the place where 
 the stone is procured, of which many of the pipes used by 
 the Canadians and Indians are made. It is a clayey lime- 
 stone, impregnated with various shells. The house, which is 
 built on the summitof a steep bank, rising almost perpendi- 
 cular to the height of one hundred and eighty feet, com- 
 mands an extensive prospect along this fine river, and over 
 the plains which stretch out several miles at the back of it, 
 bounded by hills of considerable height, and apparently 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 427 
 
 better furnished with wood than the neighbourhood of the 
 fort, where the trees grow very scantily. 
 
 On the 22nd they proceeded on their journey to Fort 
 Chipewyan, at which place they hoped to be able to arrange 
 the plans for their further progress. On the 24tb, they 
 joined an Indian who was carrying meat on his sledge to 
 Fort Chipewyan. His sledge, though heavily laden (having 
 nearly three hundred pounds weight on it) was drawn 
 by only two dogs. The weather was extremely stormy and 
 compelled the party to encamp. On the 26th, they arrived 
 at Fort Chipewyan, where they received a hearty welcome 
 from Messrs. Black and Keith, two partners of the North- 
 west Company residing at this post. The distance from 
 Cumberland House to Chipewyan Fort was nearly nine 
 hundred miles, which Captain Franklin and his party had 
 now travelled in the depth of winter; oftentimes having ta 
 quit the carioles and walk in snow shoes, weighing perhaps 
 three pounds, in addition to the incumbrance they othervTise 
 produce. 
 
 On the following day the Captain and Mr. Back waited 
 on Mr. Macdonald, who occupied the post of the Hudson's 
 Bay Company. At this post they made enquiries as to the 
 means of reaching the Coppermine River. One of the In- 
 dian servants of the North-west Company, who had been on 
 that river, described several particulars of the coast ; and 
 Captain Franklin after this wrote to the gentlemen in charge 
 of the posts at the Great Slave Lake, to communicate the 
 object of the expedition, and to solicit any information they 
 possessed, or could collect from the Indians, relative to the 
 countries to be passed through, and the best manner of pro- 
 ceeding. As the Copper Indians frequent the establish- 
 ment on the north side of the lake, they were requested to 
 explain to them the object of the visit, and to endeavour 
 to procure from them some guides and hunters to accom- 
 pany the party. 
 
 Mr. Dcase, a gentleman belonging to the establishment of 
 I I 1 2 
 
426 franklin's jolrney 
 
 the North- west Company, having passed several winters oq 
 the Mackenzie River, and at the posts to the northward of 
 Slave Lake, possessed considerable information respecting^ 
 the Indians, and those parts of the country, which he very 
 promptly and kindly communicated. During this conversa- 
 tion an old Chipewyan Indian, named the Rabbit's Head, 
 entered the room, to whom Mr. Dease referred for infor- 
 mation on some point. He stated that he was the step-son 
 of the late Chief Matonnabee^ who had accompanied Mr. 
 Hearne on his journey to the sea, and that he had himself 
 been of the party, but being then a mere boy, he had for- 
 gotten many of the circumstances. He confirmed however^ 
 the leading incidents related by Hearne, and was positive 
 he reached the sea, though he admitted that none of the 
 party had tasted the water. He represented himself to be 
 the only survivor of the party. 
 
 The second week in May they were gratified with the 
 eight of the flower anemone. The trees began to shoot ; 
 rain frequently descended ; and the advance of the Spring 
 was every way denoted. Captain Franklin now thought 
 it necessary to prepare for his departure, and requested the 
 advice of the different gentlemen who superintended the 
 concerns of both the Companies at this place. He found 
 however such a spirit of hostility between the agents of the 
 two Companies, that in order to avoid hurting the feelings 
 of either, he directed a tent to be pitched at a short distance 
 from the settlements, and then invited the gentlemen con- 
 nected with each Company to a conference. They all readily 
 accepted his invitation, and gave such answers to his various 
 enquiries as was in the compass of their knowledge. After 
 this Captain Franklin requested the agents of each Company 
 to supply him with eight men each, and also to furnish cer- 
 tain stores which he named. To his mortification he was 
 informed that there had been such an expenditure of goods 
 as to leave them the means of furnishing only a partial sup. 
 
TO THE rOLAR SKA. 429 
 
 ply ; and hardly a man appeared wiiliiig to engage in the 
 journey of discovery. 
 
 On the third of June, Mr. Smith, a partner of the North- 
 west Company, arrived from the Great Slave L.%ke, bear- 
 ing the welcome news that the principal Chief of the Copper 
 Indians had received thecorarautiicatioii of Captain Franklin's 
 arrival with joy, and given all the intelligence he possessed 
 respecting the rout to the sea-coast by the Copper-Mine 
 River ; and that he and a party of his men, at the instance 
 of Mr. Weiitzel, a clerk of the North-west Company, 
 whom they wished might go along with them, had engaged 
 to accompany the expedition as guides and hunters. They 
 were to wait at Fort Providence, on the north side of the 
 Slave Lake- They had no doubt of being able to obtain 
 the means of subfeistence in travelling to the coast. 'J'his 
 agreeable intelligence had a happy etlect upon the Canadian 
 voyagers, many of their fears boirig removed : several of 
 them seemed now disposed to VDJunteer; and, on tlic same 
 evening, two men from the North- west Company olft r«,'d 
 themselves and were accepted. 
 
 On the fifth Captain Franklin and Mr. Back waited on 
 Mr. Robertson, superintending Fort Wedderburne, belong- 
 ing to the Hudson's Bay Company. He stated that not- 
 withstanding his endeavours to persuade them, his most 
 experienced voyagers still declined engaging without very 
 exorbitant wages. After some hesitation, six men, who were 
 represented to be active and steady, were engaged ; Mr. Ro- 
 bertson also gave permission to St. Germain, an inter- 
 preter belonging to this Company, to accompany tliem from 
 Slave Lake if he should choose. I he bow-men and steers- 
 men were to receive one thousand six hundred livres Ha- 
 lifax per annum, and the middle men one thousand two 
 hundred, exclusive of their necessary equipments ; and 
 they stipulated that their wages should be continued until 
 their arrival in Montreal, or their rejoining the service of 
 their present employers. Five iiitn were al'terward engaged 
 
430 franklin's journky 
 
 from the North-west Company, for the same wages, and; 
 under the same stipulations as the others, besides an inter- 
 preter for the Copper Indians ; but this man required three 
 thousand livres HaUfax currency, which they were obliged 
 to give him, as his services were indispensible. 
 
 The residents of these establishments depend for sub- 
 sistence almost entirely on the fish which this lake affords ; 
 they are usually caught in sufficient abundance throughout 
 the winter, though at the distance of eighteen miles from 
 the houses ; on the thawing of the ice, the fish remove inta 
 smaller lakes, and the rivers on the south shore. Though 
 they are nearer to the forts than in winter, it frequently 
 happens that high winds prevent the canoes from transporting 
 them thither, and the residents are kept in consequence 
 without a supply of food for two or three days together. 
 
 The fish caught in the net are the attihhawmegh, trout, 
 carp, methye, and pike. The traders also get supplied by 
 the hunters with buffiilo and moose deer meat, (which animals 
 are found at some distance from the forts,) but the greater 
 part of it is either in a dried state, or pounded ready for mak- 
 ing pemmican ; it is required for the men who keep travel- 
 ling during the winter to collect the furs from the Indians, 
 and for the crews of the canoes on their outward passage to 
 the depots in spring. There was a great want of provisions 
 this season, and both the Companies had much difiiculty to 
 provide a bare sufficiency for their different brigades of 
 canoes. 
 
 At the opening of the water in spring, the Indians resort 
 to the establishments to settle their accounts with the traders, 
 and to procure the necessaries they require for the summer. 
 This meeting is generally a scene of much riot and confusion, 
 as the hunters receive such quantities of spirits as to keep 
 them in a state of intoxication for sever.il days. This spring, 
 however, owing to the great deficiency of spirits, they were 
 generally sober. They belong to the great family of the 
 Chipewyan, or Northern Indians ; dialects of their language 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 431 
 
 being spoken in the Peace and Mackenzie's Rivers, and 
 by the populous tribes in New Caledonia, as ascertained by 
 Sir Alexander Mackenzie in his journey to the Pacific. They 
 style themselves generally Dinneh men, or Indians, but each 
 tribe, or horde, adds some distinctive epithet taken from the 
 name of the river, or lake, on which they hunt, or the dis- 
 trict from which they last migrated. Those who come to 
 Fort Chipewyan term themselves Saw-eessaw-dinneh, (In- 
 dians from the rising sun, or Eastern Indians,) their original 
 hunting grounds being between the Athabasca and Great 
 Slave Lake, and Churchill River. Tliis district, more par- 
 ticularly termed the Chipewyan lands, or barren country, 
 is frequented by numerous herds of rein-deer, which furnish 
 easy subsistence, and clothing to the Indians ; but the traders 
 endeavour to keep them in the parts to the westward, where 
 the beavers resort. There are about one hundred and sixty 
 hunters who carry their furs to the Great Slave Lake, forty 
 to Hay River, and two hundred and forty to Fort Chipewyan. 
 A few Northern Indians also resort to the posts at the bot- 
 tom of the Lake of the Hills, or Red Deer Lake, and to 
 Churchill. The distance, however, of the latter post from 
 their hunting grounds, and the sufferings to which they are 
 exposed in going thither from want of food, have induced 
 those who were formerly accustomed to visit it, to convey 
 their furs to some fiearer station. 
 
 On the thirteenth of July, Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood 
 arrived from Cumberland House, with two canoes. They 
 made an expeditious journey from Cumberland, notwith- 
 standing they were detained near three days in consequence 
 of the melancholy loss of one of their bowmen, by the upset- 
 ting of a canoe in a strong rapid. These gentlemen brought 
 all the stores they could procure from the establishments at 
 Cumberland and Isle a la Crosse; and at the latter place 
 they had received ten bags of pemmican from the North- 
 west Company, which proved to be mouldy, and so totally 
 unfit for use, that it was left at the Methye Portage. They 
 
43f VRAWKLIN*S JOURNKY 
 
 got none Irom the Hudson's Bay post. The voyagers be- 
 lons^ing to that Company being destitute of provision, had 
 oaten what was intended for Captain Franklin's party. In 
 consequence of these untoward circumstances, the canoes 
 arrived with only one day's supply of this most essential ar- 
 ticle. The prospect of having to commence their journey 
 from hence, almost destitute of provisions, and scantily sup- 
 plied with stores, was very discouraging. It was evident, 
 liowever, that any unnecessary delay here would have been 
 very imprudent, as Fort Chipewyan did not, at the present 
 time, furnish the means of subsistence for so large a party, 
 much less was there a prospect of receiving any supply to 
 carry them forward. They therefore hastened to make the 
 necessary arrangements for a speedy departure. All the 
 stores were demanded that could possibly be s])ared from 
 both the establishments ; and when this collection was added 
 to the articles that had been brought up by the canoes, they 
 had a sufficient quantity of clothing for the equipment of the 
 men who had been engaged here, as well as to furnish a 
 present to the Indians, besides some few goods for the win- 
 ter's consumption ; but they could not procure any ammu- 
 nition, which was the most essential article, nor spirits, 
 and but little tobacco. 
 
 They then made a final arrangement respecting the voya- 
 gers, who were to accompany the party ; and, fortunately, 
 there was no difficulty in doing this, as Dr. Richardson and 
 Mr. Hood had taken the precaution to bring up ten men 
 from Cumberland, who engaged to proceed forward if their 
 services were required. The Canadians whom they brought, 
 were most desirous of being continued. When the numbers 
 were completed, it was found to consist of sixteen Canadian 
 voyagers, one English attendant, John Hepburn, besides 
 two interpreters whom they were to receive at the Great 
 Slave Lake. They were also accompanied by a Chipewyan 
 woman. An equipment of goods was given to each of the 
 men who had been engaged at this place, similar to what had 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 433 
 
 been furnished to the others at Cumberland ; and ^hen this 
 distribution had been made, the remainder were made up 
 into bales, preparatory to their departure, on the followiug 
 day. 
 
 While Mr. Hood and Dr. Richardson were at Cum- 
 berland Fort, waiting^ until the Spring was more advanced, 
 they took measures for a proper supply of necessaries. 
 Mr. Hood made an excursion to the Basquiau Hill, situated 
 about fifty miles to the southward of Cumberland House, 
 but which may be seen from thence. Two men, who were 
 going to that place to procure provisions, accompanied him. 
 After travelling two days the party arrived at a hunting 
 tent of the Indians. The state of the weather compelled 
 them to remain several days at this place, during which some 
 other Indians arrived, one of whom was named the Warrior. 
 These people having an encampment about ten miles distant, 
 Mr. Hood paid them a visit the next day. When he entered 
 the tent, the Indians spread a buffalo robe before the fire, 
 and desired him to sit down. Some were eating, others 
 sleeping, many of them withcmt any covering except the 
 breech cloth and a blanket over the shoulders, a state in 
 which they love to indulge themselves till hunger drives 
 them forth to the chase. Besidei the Warrior's family, there 
 was that oi another hunter named Long-legs, whose bad 
 success in hunting had reduced him to the necessity of feed- 
 ing on moose leather for three weeks, when he was compas- 
 sionately relieved by the Warrior. They invited the party 
 to dine, and they witnessed the mode of preparing the repast. 
 They cut into pieces a portion of fat meat, using for that 
 purpose a knife and their teoth. It was boiled in a kettle, 
 and served in a platter made of birch bark, from which, 
 being dirty, they had peeled the surface. 
 
 Mr. Hood engaged five Canadians, who were to continue 
 with the party until Captain Franklin should discharge them. 
 'J'hoy required, however, that in case of meeting with Captain 
 
 l\ V. 19. K K K 
 
434 franklin's journey 
 
 Parry they should not be compelled to embark with him, sn 
 fearful were they of being conveyed on board a ship of war. 
 
 All things being prepared. Dr. Richardson, Mr. Hood, 
 and the various servants attached, took their departure from 
 Cuuihei lantl House on the 13th, and on the following evening 
 reached Beaver Lake. On the eighteenth, sailing along the 
 river I\lissinij)pi, they crossed the Otter portage, where thai 
 river runs with, great velocity. In attempting to draw the 
 canoes along the shore, one of tlicm, in which were two of 
 the servants, overset and was carried down the current. One 
 of them) named Louis Saint Jean, the foreman, was lost, the 
 other jn9;n reached ihe bank of the river with difficulty and 
 was saved. The sufferings which the party endured from the 
 sting of the musquitoes is described as most acute. Some- 
 times they close<} the teiU and burnt wood, or set fire to 
 gunj)owder, that the snuike mightdrive them away ; but lo 
 eflGntswerci'ftictjral entirely to disperse them ; they swarmed 
 in tlie bkutkfC'ts and drew bloo<l with their piercing trunks so 
 as deeply to s^uin their clothes. In addition to this they had 
 to endure the stiug of the horse-fly and the sand-fly, so that 
 their bodies wei-ein constant pain. After undergoing many 
 privations and passing through many difficulties, Dr. Rich- 
 ar^UOH, Mr- Hood) and the servants they had engaged, ar- 
 rived at Fort CAiipewyan as aoticed before, and they had the 
 satisfaction of meeting Caotain Franklin and tlieir other 
 companions in good health. 
 
 After remninisg at Fort Chipewyan a few vtlays, 4hey !|*fe- 
 pt«'<id for ibeir journey toward the Polar Sea. Their stock 
 ofprovixionminfortuuately was adequate to only a few days 
 cofisumptio<i>; it was pleasiint, lM)wever, lo remark that the 
 scarcity of (bod lUd not dispirit the Guiiadians who were to 
 be of the party. At noon ou the 18th, CnjUain Franklin and 
 the whole parly bade farewell to tbe resixleiits of the Com- 
 ])any at Fort Ohipewyan, and soon entered the Stony River. 
 T-itf qurrent being favourable, they passed. swiftly along and 
 
TO THE POLAR SKA. 435 
 
 entered the Slave Ulver. In crossinj^ Little Rock portage, 
 the bowman, who was carrying; one oK tlie canoes, Jet it slip 
 upon the rock and it broke in two. This circunastance de- 
 tained them two hours to sew the pieces together and cover 
 them with pitch, which rendered the canoes as serviceable as 
 ever. 
 
 At a place called the Portage of the drowned, a most 
 serious accident happened a few years preceding. Two 
 canoes arrived at the upper end of the portage, in one of 
 which there was an experienced guide. This man judg- 
 ing from the height of the river, deemed it practica- 
 ble to shoot the rapid, and determined upon trying it. 
 He accordingly placed himself in the bow of his canoe, 
 having previously agreed, that if the passage was found 
 easy, he should, on reaching the bottom of the rapid, fire a 
 musket, as a signal for the other canoe to follow. The rapid 
 proved dangerous, and called forth all the skill of the guide, 
 and the utmost exertion of his crew, and they narrowly es- 
 caped destruction. Just as they were landing, an unfortu- 
 nate fellow seizing the loaded fowling piece, fired at a duck 
 which rose at the instant. The guide anticipating the con- 
 sequences, ran with the utmost haste to the other end of the 
 portage, but he was too late : the other canoe had pushed 
 off, and he arrived only to witness the fate of his comrades. 
 They got alarmed in the middle of the rapid, the canoe was 
 upset, and every man pirished. 
 
 On the twenty-second they shot a buffalo, which gave 
 them a plentiful supply of provisions for the present. On 
 the twenty-fourth they reached the establishment of the 
 North-west Company on Moose -Deer Island, where they 
 found letters from Mr. Wentzel, dated Fort Providence, a 
 station on the North side of the lake, informing them that 
 the Indian guide was waiting for them at that port. 
 
 Captain Franklin engaged an interpreter at this place 
 named Pierre St. Germain, for the Copper Indians. They 
 were greatly disappointed as to the provisions they expected 
 
 Kilk2 
 
436 PRANKI^IN'S JOUllxNtiY 
 
 to be furnished with ; after a little delay however, some men 
 arrived with meat, and from the depots of the two Compa- 
 nies a supply of nearly six hundred pounds of dried provi- 
 sions were procured ; and as they calculated that they had 
 now sufficient until they joined the hunters, they resolved to 
 proceed. The houses of the North-west and Hudson's Bay 
 Companies are small, and the principal support of the iivha- 
 bitants is fish, which the lake produces in abundance. The 
 hunters also bring occasionally the flesh of moose, buffalo, 
 and rein deer. On the twenty-seventh the party leit Moose- 
 Deer Island. Since leaving Fort Chipewyan they had tra^ 
 velled two hundred and sixty miles. On the twenty- ninth 
 they reached Fort Providence, a post occupied by the North- 
 west Company only. The Ilutison's Bay Company have ne 
 settlement to the northward of Great Slave Lake. At this 
 place they found Jean Baptisle Adam, one of the interpre- 
 ters who was to accompany them. The chief of the Indian 
 tribe and his hunters were encamped at some distance from 
 the fort, at a good fishing station. A fire was lighted on the 
 top of a hill to announce the arrival of Captain Franklin and 
 his [>arty, and a present of tobacco and other articles was 
 sent to him. The duties allotted to Mr. Wentzel were, the 
 management of the Indians, the superintendance of the 
 Canadian voyagers, the obtaining, and the general distribu- 
 tion of the provision, and the issue of the other stores. These 
 services he was well qualified to perform, having been ac- 
 customed to execute similar duties, during a residence of 
 upwards of twenty years in this country ; he was one of the 
 lew traders who speak the Chipewyan language. 
 
 As external appearances make lasting impressions on the 
 Indians, the party prepared for the interview by decorating 
 themselves in uniform, and suspending a medal round each 
 of their necks. The tents had been previously pitched, and 
 over one a silken union flag was hoisted. Soon alter noon, 
 on July 30th, several Indian canoes were seen advancing in 
 a regular line, and on their approach the chief was discovered 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA 437 
 
 in the headmost, which was paddled by two wei). On land- 
 ing at the fort, the chief assumed a very grave aspect, and 
 walked up to Mr. Wentzel with a measured and dignified 
 step, looking neither to the right nor to the left, at the per- 
 sons who had assembled on the beach to witness his debarka- 
 tion, but preserving the same immoveability of countenance 
 until he reached the hall, and was introduced to the officers. 
 When he had smoked his pipe, drank a small portion of 
 spirits and water himself, and issued a glass to each of his 
 companions, who had seated themselves on the floor, he 
 commenced his harangue, by mentioning the circumstances 
 that led to his agreeing to accompany the expedition, an en- 
 gagement which he was quite prepared to fulfil. He was 
 rejoiced, he said, to see such great chiefs on his lands ; his 
 tribe were poor, but they loved white men, who had been 
 their benefactors ; and he hoped that the visit would be pro- 
 ductive of much good to them. It was at first rumoured, he 
 said, that a great medicine chief accompanied the party, who 
 was able to restore the dead to life; at this he rejoiced; the 
 prospect of again seeing his departed relatives had enlivened 
 his spirits, but his first communication with Mr. Wentzel had 
 removed these vain hopes, and he felt as if his friends had a 
 second time bee«i torn from liim. He now wished to be in- 
 formed exactly of the nature of the expedition. 
 
 In reply to this speech, which had been ])repared for many 
 days. Captain Franklin endeavoured to explain the objects 
 of the mission in a manner best calculated to ensure his exer- 
 tions in the service. With this view, says Captain Franklin, 
 I told him that we were sent out by the greatest chief in the 
 world, who was the sovereign also of the ir;idiiig companies 
 in the country ; that he was the friend of ]>eace, and had the 
 interest of every nation at heart. Having learned that his 
 children in the north, were much in want of articles of mer- 
 chandize, in consequence of the extreme length and difficulty 
 of the present route, he luul sent us to search for a passage 
 by the sea, which if found, would enable large vessels la 
 
438 FRANKLIN S JUUKNKY 
 
 traftspori great quantities of goods more easily to their iiandij* 
 That wc had not come for the purpose of traffic, but solely 
 to make discoveries for their benefit, as well as that of every 
 other people. That we had been directed to inquire into the 
 nature of all the productions of the countries we might pass 
 through, and particularly respecting their inhabitants. That 
 we desired the assistance of the Indians in guiding us, and 
 providing us with food ; finally, that we were most positively 
 enjoined by the great chief to recommend that hostilities 
 uhould cease throughout this country ; and especially between 
 the Indians and the Esquimaux, whom he considered as 
 children, in common with other natives ; and by way of en- 
 forcing the latter point more strongly, I assured him that a 
 forfeiture of all the advantages which might be anticipated 
 from the expedition would be a certain consequence if any 
 quarrel arose between his party and the Esquimaux. I also 
 communicated to him that owing to the distance we had tra- 
 velled, we had now few more stores than was necessary for 
 the use of our own party ; a part of these however, should be 
 forthwith presented to him ; on his return he and his party 
 should be remunerated with cloth, ammunition, tobacco, and 
 some useful iron materials, besides having their debts to the 
 North-west Company discharged. 
 
 The chief, whose name was Akaitcho or Big-foot, replied 
 by a renewal of his assurances, that he and his party would 
 attend them to the end of the journey, and that they would 
 do their utmost to provide them with the means of subsist- 
 ence, lie admitted that his tribe had made war upon the 
 Esquimaux, but said, they were now desirous of peace, and 
 unanimous in their opinion as to the necessity of all who ac- 
 companied thorn abstaining from every actof enmity against 
 that nation. lie added, however, that the Esquimaux were 
 very treacherous, and therefore recommended that they 
 should advance towards them with caution. 
 
 The communications which tlie chief and the guides then 
 gave rcs|ectijig the route to the Copper-Mine River, audits 
 
TO THE POLAR SilA. 439 
 
 course to the sea, coincided in every material point with the 
 statements which were made by others at Chipewyan, but 
 they differed in their descriptions of the coast. The infor- 
 mation, however, collected from both sources was very 
 vague and unsatisfactory. None of his tribe had been more 
 than three days' march along the sea^coast to the eastward 
 of the river's mouth. 
 
 As the water was unusually high this season, the Indian 
 guides recommended going by a shorter route to the Copper 
 Mine River than that they had first proposed to Mr. Wentzel, 
 and they assigned as a reason for the change, that the rein- 
 <leer would be sooner found upon this track. They then 
 drew a chart of the proposed route on the floor with char- 
 coal, exhibiting a chain of twenty-five small lakes extending 
 towards the north, about one half of them connected by a 
 river which flows into Slave Lake, near Fort Providence. 
 One of the guides, name<l Keskarrah, drew tlie Copper- 
 Mine River, running through the Upper Lake, in a westerly 
 direction towards the Great Bear Lake, and then northerly 
 to the sea. The other guide drew the river in a stmight 
 line to the sea from the above-mentioned place, but after 
 some dispute, admitted the correctness of the first delinea- 
 tion. The latter was elder brother to Akaitcho, and he said 
 that he had accompanied Mr. Ilearne on his journey, and 
 though very young at the time, still remembered many of 
 the circumstances, and particularly the massacre committed 
 by the Indians on the Esquimaux. 
 
 They pointed out another lake to the southward of the 
 river, about three day's journey distant from it, on which 
 the chief proposed the next vviiiter's establishment should be 
 formed, as the rein-deer would pass there in the autumn and 
 spring. Its waters contained fish, and there was a sufficiency 
 of wood for building as well as for the winter's eoHSum])tion, 
 They could not say what time it would take ia reaching the 
 lake, until they saw the manner of travelling in the large 
 canoes, but they supposed it would be about twenty days. 
 
440 FRANKLIN'S JOURNEY 
 
 Akaitcho and the guides having communicated all the in- 
 formation they possessed on the different points to which 
 questions had been directed, Captain Franklin placed a 
 medal round the neck of the chief, and the officers presented 
 theirs to an elder brother of his and the two guides, commu- 
 nicating to them that these marks of distinction were given 
 as tokens of friendship. Being conferred in the presence 
 of all the hunters, their acquisition was highly gratifying to 
 them, but they studiously avoided any great expression of 
 joy, because such an exposure would have been unbecominjG^ 
 the dignity which the senior Indians assume during a confer- 
 ence. They expressed themselves sensible of these tokens 
 of regard, and that they should be preserved during their 
 lives with the utmost care. The chief evinced much pene- 
 tration and intelligence during the whole of this conversa- 
 tion. He made many inquiries respecting the discovery 
 ships, under the command of Captain Parry, which had been 
 mentioned to him, and asked why a passage had not been 
 discovered long ago, if one existed. The chief was desirous 
 of being present, with his party, at a dance which was 
 given in the evening to our Canadian voyagers. They were 
 highly entertained by the vivacity and agility displayed by 
 them in their singing and dancing; and especially by their 
 imitating the gestures of a Canadian, who placed himself in 
 the most ludicrous postures ; and, whenever this was done, 
 the gravity of the chief gave way to violent bursts of laughter. 
 In return for the gratification Akaitcho had eiyoyed, he 
 desired his young men to exhibit the Dog-Rib Indian dance ; 
 and immediately they ranged themselves in a circle, and 
 keeping their legs widely separated, began to jump simul- 
 taneously sideways ; their bodies were bent, their hands 
 placed on their hips, and they uttered forcibly the interjec- 
 tion tsa at each jump. Devoid as were their attitudes of 
 grace, and their music of harmony, the novelty of the exhi- 
 bition was amusing 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 441 
 
 The custom of dispersing and destroying the musquitoes, 
 by lighting fires and leaving the coals to burn, was attended 
 with a very serious accident. The tent in which Captain 
 Franklin slept caught fire and was entirely consumed. A 
 quantity of powder was stowed in the tent, and Hepburn was 
 sleeping within it. He awoke just in time to throw the pow- 
 der out of the tent, and to preserve the baggage ; otherwise 
 this circumstance would have put an end to the further pro- 
 gress of the expedition. 
 
 On the first day of August the Indians quitted Fort Provi- 
 dence, and proceeded to the entrance of Yellow Knife Ri- 
 ver. After tiieir departure the stores were made up into 
 packages of about eighty pounds for the convenience of con- 
 veyance. In this arrangement the absence of the Indians 
 was indispensably necessary, as they were always begging 
 every article which came under their notice. 
 
 The expedition now consisted of the following persons, 
 together with three females, the wives of the voyagers. 
 
 John Franklin, lieutenant of the royal navy and commander. 
 John Richardson, M . D., surgeon of the royal navy. 
 Mr. George Back, of the royal navy, midshipman. 
 Mr. Robert Hood, of the royal navy, midshipman. 
 Mr. Frederick Wentzel, clerk to the North-west Company* 
 John Heoburn, English seaman. 
 
 Interpreters, 
 
 Pierre St. Qermain, Chipewyan' Bois'BruMi 
 
 Jean Baptiste Adam. 
 
 Canadian Voytxgfrs. 
 Joseph Peltier, Gabriel Beauparlanl, 
 
 Matthew Pelonquin, dit Credit, Vincenza Fontano, 
 Solomon Belanger, Registe Vaillant, 
 
 Joseph Benoit, Jean Baptiste Parent^ 
 
 P. V. 19. L L L 
 
442 FRANKLIN*S JOURNEY 
 
 Joseph Gagne, Jean Bapfiste Belanger, 
 
 Pierre Duraas, Jean Baptiste Belleau, 
 
 Joseph Forcier, Emanuel Cournoyee, 
 
 Ignace Perrault, Michael Teroahaute, an Iroquois. 
 Francois Samandre. 
 
 On the 2nd of August the party encamped at about eight 
 miles distance from Fort Providence, and on the following 
 day arrived at the entrance of Yellow Knife River, where 
 they found Akaitcho and his party with their families. They 
 mustered a fleet of seventeen canoes, and the whole party 
 proceeded together up the River. Akaitcho endeavoured to 
 sustain the importance of his character, and was rowed by 
 a youth whom he made captive ; when however he was so far 
 from observation as to admit it, he laid aside his importance, 
 and aided by his personal exertions in paddling the canoe. 
 Several of the canoes were paddled by women. 
 
 In crossing a portage, the Indians had much the superiority ; 
 the men carried the canoes, and the women and children the 
 clothes, so that tliey soon accomplished their journey ; while 
 those of the Expedition had to make four journeys to convey 
 their canoes and stores. At night, on encamping, the men 
 were divided into different watches for the night, with an of- 
 ficer attached to each watch. This was done for security of 
 the property, and to manifest to the Indians that no oppor- 
 tunity could occur for dishonest attempts ; and Akaitcho, the 
 chief, observing the systematic efforts pursued for their pro- 
 tectiofi, declared that he should be without apprehension ofl 
 danger from the Esquimaux, as no opportunity could occur 
 when the party might be surprised. 
 
 On the 5th, an issue was made of the last portion of dried 
 meat in their possession ; and a few pounds of preserved meat 
 and some' portable soup was all that remained. To supply 
 their future wants, the hunters were sent forward to shoot 
 the rein' ^ter which usually frequented a place they were 
 
TO THK POLAR SEA. 443 
 
 approaching. Akaitcho also informed tl»em that some lakes 
 which they would soon approach abounded with fish. The 
 voyagers began to complain that they could not proceed with 
 the scanty subsistence that was now given them. In the 
 night of the seventh, the dry moss where they were encamped, 
 by some accident took fire, and they narrowly escaped losing 
 great part of their canoes and baggage. 
 
 Arriving at Carp Lake, which the Indians said was very 
 productive offish, they resolved to rest for a day or two to af- 
 ford the opportunity of recruiting their supply of provisions. 
 The chief and all the Indians went forwards to endeavour to 
 procure some rein-deer, and the nets produced a sufficient 
 quantity of fish to give the whole party some hearty meals. 
 Being refreshed by this supply, they proceeded on the ele- 
 venth, and received the agreeable information that the hun- 
 ters who were in advance had obtained a supply of rein-deer. 
 This was a most welcome account, as the Canadians bad ex- 
 pressed great discontent at having so scanty a supply of food, 
 and complained that they had been led into a country where 
 there were no means of subsistence. 
 
 On the 14th they entered Hunters* Lake, situated in lat. 
 sixty-four deg. six min. and in long, one hundred and thirteen 
 deg. twenty-five min. The hunters brought in more meat 
 this evening, but the nets produced scarcely any fish. On 
 the following day they received no less than seventeen deer, 
 80 that a sufficient store was now obtained for some days to 
 come. Akaitcho now proposed that he and his hunters should 
 proceed towards Winter Lake to procure a fresh store of pro- 
 visions against the arrival of the party. He also desired the 
 opportunity of providing clothing for himself and people. 
 He accordingly was permitted to proceed. 
 
 As the supply of provisions was now very abundant, and a 
 prospect of its contnuing so, the people resumed their cheer- 
 fulness, and on the nineteenth the party arrived at a small 
 lake to the westward of Winter Lake, where Akaitcho re- 
 commended them to take up their residence for the winter. 
 
 L L L 2 
 
444 franklin's journisv 
 
 Tt being Sunday, divine service was performed as usual when 
 opportunity otFered. The distance from Fort Chipewyan, 
 which the party had travelled, was nearly six hundred miles; 
 and the servants in conveying the stores across the portages 
 bad walked upwards of one hundred and fifty miles. 
 
 As the party were expected to spend many months at this 
 place, they set about erecting a place of residence, and they 
 gave to it the name of Fort Enterprise. Mr. Wentzel had 
 the principal superintendance of this erection, and the build- 
 ing was made as comfortable as the resources and circum- 
 stances would admit. 
 
 The party were the next day divided into two companies ; 
 one company was to procure wood and erect a store-house, 
 and the other company were to bring in the provisions. As 
 it was the intention of Captain Franklin to descend the Cop- 
 per-mine River, he sent for the chief, who was hunting in 
 the neighbourhood, according as he had appointed on 
 leaving the party some days preceding. On his arrival how- 
 ever it appeared that he had procured but few deer : for hav- 
 ing heard of the death of his brother in law, several days had 
 been spent in lamentation on that account. He also refused 
 to accompany the party to the Copper-mine River, saying 
 that the winter was too far advanced, that the rein-deer had 
 )eft the river, and that provisions would not be to be pro- 
 cured. Captain Franklin still asserting that he should make 
 the attempt, Akaitcho said that it should not be laid to their 
 charge that their visitors were suffered to go alone ; and al- 
 though it did appear to him that the journey would be at the 
 peril of their lives, yet that some of his yoting men should 
 accompany the party. Captain Franklin assured the chief 
 that he, in common with all his companions, was solicitous for 
 the welfare of all that accompanied them ; but that it was 
 of importance to obtain some correct knowledge of that river, 
 in order that in their next despatches to the Great Chief 
 (the King of Great Britain) they might state some particulars 
 reepecting it. Akaitcho, after all, a])peared so greatly to 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 445 
 
 object to the journey, that it was thou^^ht prudent (o decline 
 the attempt. On holding a conference with the officers on 
 the subject, it was finally resolved that Mr. Back and Mr. 
 Hood should be sent to explore those parts, in a light canoe. 
 
 On the 25th, John Hepburn, the English seaman, having 
 gone out to hunt, a dense fog coming on, he missed tberoad^ 
 and not returning in the evening, the greatest anxiety pre- 
 vailed for his safety. Nothing was heard of him on the fol- 
 lowing day ; and on the twenty -seventh a parly of Indians 
 went in search of him. They fortunately succeeded, and 
 brought him back the same evening, although he was much 
 fatigued. He had been wandering about duriifg tiie whole 
 time, and had eaten only a partridge, and the tongue of a 
 deer which he shot- After partaking of some food, and tak- 
 ing rest, he recovered his usual health and strength. 
 
 An eclipse being to take place about this time, Akaitcho 
 was informed of it, and when the circumstance oocured, it 
 brought him to the most decided admission of the superior 
 knowledge and talents of the while people, who could account 
 for, and foretell such an event ; and he said that he and his 
 people could not but be glad to have the company of such 
 intelligent persons, and that on their part every exertion 
 should be made to procure provisions. 
 
 On the 29lh, Mr. Hood and Mr. Buck, accompanied by 
 Pierre St. Germain, eight Canadians and one of the Indians, 
 embarked to explore the Copper-mine River. If the wea- 
 ther permitted, he was, on arriving at its banks, to trace 
 its course and make observations for a few days and then to 
 return. At this time also the Indian chief took his depar- 
 ture, leaving two of his people to procure provisions. 
 
 On the 9th of Septembv;r, having nothing which particu- 
 larly required their attention to prevent it. Dr. Richardson 
 and Captain Franklin set out on an excursion to the Copper- 
 mine River, taking three of the servants with them. They 
 attempted as straiglit a course as the country would permit. 
 Th3 land was extremely barren, there being scarcely any 
 
446 franklin's journky 
 
 trees. One of the party killed a rein-deer, of which they all 
 partook. At night, they had to sleep on the frozen ground, 
 with only a small quantity of twigs under them, and little co- 
 vering upon them. In Indian who was of the party stripped 
 himself naked ; and then warming himself by the fire, co- 
 vered himself with his garments and went to sleep. They 
 passed a herd of rein-deer on the second day and killed one 
 of them ; but they were so loaded already that they left the 
 greater part of the carcase behind, carefully covered with 
 stones, some of the party intending to possess themselves of 
 it on their return. On the thirteenth they came in view of 
 the Copper-mine River, and soon arrived on the edge of 
 Point Lake, which is about the lat. of 65 deg. 9 min, and 
 long. 112 deg. 67 min. Having satisfied themselves as far as 
 the present circumstance admitted, they set out on their re- 
 turn to the fort. The coldness of the weather had consi- 
 derably increased. The ground was covered with snow, and 
 the whole country had a wintry appearance. On the 16th 
 they arrived at their old quarters at Fort Enterprise. Mr. 
 Back, Mr. Hood and the party accompanying them, had re- 
 turned from their journey to explore the Copper-mine Ri- 
 ver. They had travelled upwards of fifty miles to the north- 
 ward, as far as the Lake into which the Copper-mine 
 River runs.* Although the cold was severe, and fuel was 
 scarce, yet they cheerfully persevered in their journey, and 
 no complaint was made of any one attached to the party. 
 
 During the absence of the reconnoitering parties, Mr. 
 Wentzel had proceeded in the erection of the house, and in 
 the beginning of October, the place being finished, the 
 party removed into it. It was merely a log-building, fifty 
 feet long, and twenty four wide, divided into a hall, three 
 bed rooms and a kitchen. The walls and roof were plastered 
 with clay, the floors laid with planks rudely squared with 
 the hatchet, and the windows closed with parchment of deer- 
 skin. The clay, which from the coldness of the weather re- 
 quired to be tempered before the fire with hot water, froze 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 447 
 
 as it was daubed orij afterwards cracked in such a manner 
 a^ to admit the wind from every quarter ; yet, compared 
 with the tents, this new habitation appeared comfortable ; 
 and having filled the capacious clay-built chimney with fag- 
 gots, they spent a cheerful evening before the invogoratihg 
 blaze. The change was peculiarly beneficial to Dr. Richard- 
 son, who having, in one of his excursions, incautiously laid 
 down on the frozen side of a hill when heated with walking, 
 had caught a severe sore throat, which became daily worse 
 whilst remaining in the tents, but he began to mend soon 
 after he was enabled to confine himself to the more equable 
 warmth of the house. 
 
 The meridian sun at this time melted the light covering of 
 snow or hoar frost on the lichens, which clothe the barren 
 grounds, and rendered them so tender as to attract great 
 herds of rein-deer. Captain Franklin estimated the numbers 
 he saw during a short walk, at upwards of two thousand. 
 They form into herds of difl'erent sizes, from ten to a hun- 
 dred, according as their fears or accident induce them to 
 unite or separate. The females being at this time more lean 
 and active, usually lead the van. The haunches of the males 
 are now covered to the depth of two inches or more with fat, 
 which beginning to get red and high flavoured, is considered 
 a sure indicationof the commencement of the ruttins: season. 
 
 The horns of the rein-deer vary, not only with its sex and 
 age, but are otherwise so uncertain in their growth, that 
 they are never alike in any two individuals. The old males 
 shed their's about the end of December ; the females retain 
 them until the disappearance of the snow enables them to 
 frequent the barren grounds, about the middle or end of May, 
 soon after which period they proceed towards the sea- coast 
 an<l drop their young. The young males lose iheir horns 
 about the same time with the females or a little earlier, some 
 of them as early as April. The hair of the rein- deer falls in 
 July, and is succeeded by a short thick coat of mingled clove, 
 deep reddish, and yellowish browns ; the belly and under 
 
448 franklin's jouunky 
 
 parts of the neck, &c., remaining white. As the winter ap* 
 proaches the hair becomes long^er, and lighter in its colours, 
 and it begins to loosen in May, being then much worn on 
 the sides, from the animal rubbing itself against trees and 
 stones. Their principal movement to the northward con- 
 raences generally in the end of April, when the snow begins 
 to melt on the sides of the hills ; and early in May, when 
 large patches of the ground are visible, they are on the banks 
 of the Copper -mine River. The females take the lead in 
 this spring migration, and bring forth their young on the sea- 
 coast about the end of May or beginning of June. There are 
 certain spots or passes well known to the Indians, through 
 which thedeer invariably pass in iheir migration to and from 
 the coast, and it has been observed that they always travel 
 against the wind. 
 
 The herds of rein- deer are attended in their migrations by 
 bands of wolves, which destroy a great many of them. The 
 Copper Indians kill the rein-deer in the summer with the 
 gun, or taking advantage of a favourable disposition of the 
 ground, they enclose a herd upon a neck of land, and drive 
 Iheni into a lake, where they fall an easy prey ; but in the 
 spring, when they are numerous on the skirts of the woods, 
 they catch them in snares. The snares are simple nooses, 
 formed into a rope made of twisted sinews, which are placed in 
 the aperture of a slight hedge, constructed of the branches of 
 trees. This hedge is so disposed as to form several winding 
 compartments, and although it is by no means strong, yet 
 the deer seldom attempt to break through it. The herd is 
 led into the labyrinth by two converging rows of poles, and 
 jone is generally caught at each of the openings by the noose 
 placed there. The hunter, too, lying in ambush, stabs some 
 of them with his bayonet as they pass by, and the whole herd 
 frequently becomes his prey. 
 
 The Dog-rib Indians have a mode of killing these am- 
 inals, which though simple, is very suecessfal. It was thus 
 described by Mr. Wentzel, who resided long amongst that 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 
 
 people. The hunters go in pairs, the foremost man carry- 
 ing in one hand the horns and part of the skin of the head of 
 a deer, and in the other a small bundle of twigs, against 
 which he, from time to time, rubs the horns, imitating the 
 gestures peculiar to the animal. His comrade follows, tread- 
 ing exactly in his footsteps, and holding the guns of both in 
 a horizontal position, so that the muzzles project under the 
 arms of him who carries the head. Both hunters have a fil- 
 let of white skin round their foreheads, and the foremost has 
 a stripe of the same kind round his wrists. They approach 
 the herd by degrees,' raising their legs very slowly, but set- 
 ting them down somewhat suddenly, after the manner of a 
 deer, and always taking care to lift their right or left feet 
 simultaneously. If any of the herd leave off feeding to gaie 
 upon this extraordinary phenomenon, it instantly stops, and 
 the <kG^d begins to play its part by licking its shoulders, and 
 performing other necessary movements. In this way the 
 hunters attain the very centre of the herd without exciting 
 suspicion, and have leisure to single out the fattest. The 
 hindmost man then pushes forward his comrade's gun, the 
 hoad is dropt, and they both fire nearly at the same instant. 
 The herd scampers off, the hunters trot after them ; in a 
 short time the poor animals halt to ascertain the cause of their 
 terror, their foes stop at the same instant, and having loaded 
 as they ran, greet the gazers with a second fatal discharge. 
 The consternation of the deer increases, they run to and fro 
 in the utmost confusion, and sometimes a great part of the 
 herd is destroyed within the space of a few hundred yards. 
 
 Having nothing to require attention, Mr. Back and Mr. 
 Wentzel, accompanied by two of the voyagers and two In- 
 dians, with the wives of the latter, whose names were Little 
 Forehead and Smiling Martin, set out on the eighteenth, on 
 a journey to Fort Providence, to expedite the conveyance of 
 stores, and to obtain additional supplies of ammunition^ to- 
 bacco, and other articles. 
 
 In the course of the autumn they procured upwards of one 
 P. V. 19. M M M 
 
460 franklin's journey 
 
 thousand pounds weight of fish, each weigliiog two pound* 
 and upwards. When the weather was severe the fish froz9 
 as they were taken out of the nets ; and if they were after- 
 wards placed near the fire so as to thaw the ice, they revived, 
 even when they had been in a frozen state for several hours. 
 The party who had been dis])atched to Fort Providence 
 continuing longer absent than had been expected, it occa- 
 sioned considerable anxiety, especially among the Indians, 
 who gave way, as was their custom on such occasions, to 
 fearful apprehensions. At one time they supposed they had 
 perished by some accident, at another, 'that they had been 
 murdered by some Indian tribe. The repetition of their 
 fears greatly dispirited the Canadians; but as Captain Frank- 
 lin and his companions always expressed the firmest confi- 
 dence that they would soon receive advice respecting their 
 absent friends, they strove against their forebodings, until on 
 the twenty-third of November Belanger, one of the voya- 
 gers who accompanied Mr Back, made his appearance. He 
 came alone, having left his companions the day before in a 
 wood through which they passed, and as the snow fell in 
 abundance they were too timid to encounter the storm. He 
 was covered with snow and ice from the severity of the wea- 
 ther. He brought a packet of letters, which had been sent 
 by the way of Canada in the canoes of the North- west Com- 
 pany to Fort Providence, and a few balls for the guns. He 
 stated that several packages from York Factory had been 
 left at the Grand Rapid in consequence of a misunderstand- 
 ing or dispute between the servants of the North-west and 
 Hudson's Bay Companies. This was a most serious disap- 
 pointment to all parties ; more especially as it was impossi- 
 ble to present any thing to the Indians equivalent to the loss 
 of ammunition and tobacco ; the one article so necessary to 
 procure food, the other so essential to the comfort of the In- 
 dians. The letters contained information that two of the Es- 
 quimaux nation were engaged as interj)reters, and were on 
 their journey : this was most acceptable news to the Indians, 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 4al 
 
 as they were fearful if they proceeded northward of meeting 
 with a party of that nation, and being killed by them. 
 
 On the day following the Indians whom Belauger had left 
 behind, arrived ; but they gave out reports of so painful a na- 
 ture as to put the success of the enterprize to hazard. They 
 stated that Mr. Weeks, the gentleman in charge of Fort 
 Providence, had told them, that so far from being the officers 
 of a great Chief, the party were merely a set of dependent 
 wretches, whose only aim was to obtain subsistence for a sea- 
 son ill the plentiful country of the Copper Indians ; that, out 
 of charity they had been supplied with a portion of goods by 
 the trading Companies, but that there was not the smallest 
 ])robability of their rewarding the Indians when their term 
 of service was completed. Akaitcho, with great good sense, 
 instantly desired to have the matter explained, stating at tlie 
 same time, that he could not credit it. Captain Franklin 
 then pointed out to him that Mr. Wentzel, with whom they 
 had long been accustomed to trade, had pledged the credit 
 of his Company for the stipulated rewards to the party that 
 accompanied them, and that the trading debts due by Akaitcho 
 and his party had already been remitted, which was of itself 
 a sufficient proof of influence with the North-west Company. 
 lie also reminded Akaitcho, that having caused the Esqui- 
 maux to be brought up at a great expense, was evidence of 
 their future intentions. The Indians retired from the con- 
 ference apparently satisfied, but this business was in the end 
 productive of much incovenience, and proved very detri- 
 mental to the progress of the Expedition. 
 
 The residence of so great a number of persons as abode 
 at Fort Enterprise caused such a large consumption of pro- 
 visions as induced Captain Franklin to represent the circum- 
 stance to Akaitcho ; and he promised to send his party away. 
 The balls which had been received by Belanger were given 
 him for the use of his hunters, and after lingering a week 
 longer they quitted their residence near Fort Enterprise. 
 Akaitcho's mother being at this time very ill, he left her be- 
 
 M M M 2 
 
452 FRANKLIN S JOURNliY 
 
 hind, with two female companions, requesting", in case of 
 her death, that she might be buried at a distance from the 
 house, that his mind might not be pained wheneTer he eame 
 back. 
 
 The wife of Keskarrah, one of the Indian guides, being 
 afflicted, Dr. Richardson gave him a medicine to be taken by 
 her. In receiving it, he practised a variety of ceremonies 
 ^hich in their opinion were no doubt as effectual to lier 
 recovery as the medicine itself, which fortunately assisted her 
 recovery They had a daughter named Green Stockings, 
 who was considered by all as a great beauty. Indeed so 
 high an opinion had her mother of her channs, that on sitting 
 for her picture, which after some unwillingness Mr. Hood 
 was permitted to take, the good old lady expressed her con- 
 viction that when the Great Chief (King George) saw her 
 picture, he would not be satisfied until he had sent for the 
 original to make her his wife. The young lady, although un- 
 der sixteen years of age, had already had two husbands. 
 
 The weather at this time was extremely cold, 29^ below 
 zero; yet notwithstanding this severity the people went 
 about their regular daily labours, wearing leather mittens, 
 furred caps, and rein-deer shirts. Although their faces 
 were without covering, they experienced no ill effects, ex- 
 cepting when on the water, or any unsheltered place, where 
 the wind came with full force. The operation of the cold 
 however upon the trees was such as to render them as im- 
 pervious as tt stone, so that in attempting to fell them almost 
 every hatchet was broken. 
 
 Captain Franklin says, as it may be interesting to know 
 how we passed our time at this season of the year, I shall 
 mention briefly, that a considerable portion of it was occupied 
 in writing up our journals. Some newspapers and maga- 
 zines, that we had received from England with our letters, 
 were read again and again, and commented upon, at oui 
 meals ; and we often exercised ourselves with conjecturing 
 the changes that might take place in the world before we 
 
TO THE POLAR SKA 463 
 
 could hear from it again. The probabihty of our receiving 
 letters, and the period of their arrival, were calculated to a 
 nicety. We occasionally paid the woodmen a visit, or took 
 a wall; for a mile or two on the river. 
 
 lu the evenings we joined the men in the hall, and took a 
 part in their games, which generally continued to a late hour; 
 in short, we never found the time to hang heavy upon our 
 hands ; and the peculiar occupations of each of the officers 
 afforded them more employment than might at first be sup- 
 posed. 
 
 On the ]5th some of the men arrived from Fort Provi- 
 dence. They brought some rum, a barrel of powder, some 
 tobacco, sixty pounds of ball, and some clothing. The spirits 
 were frozen, and so severe was the temperature that their 
 fingers adhered to the glass. It appeared by the confession 
 of one of the Indians who accompanied the party from Fort 
 Providence, that they had drawn out some of the rum. This 
 disposition to a breach of trust was the occasion of much dis- 
 tress, as it manifested how little reliance wus to be ]>laced 
 on these people. It was more peculiarly distressing when it 
 was manifest that their superiors were suffering equal if not 
 greater privations than themselves. The ammunition, and a 
 part of the rum, were sent to Akaitcho. 
 
 On the 27th the two Esquimaux ariived. Their names 
 were The Belly and The Ear. Mr. Wentzel, and St. Ger- 
 main, one of the interpreters, accompanied them. The Es- 
 quimaux had also a name given to them correspondent v>iih 
 the month of their arrival at Fort Churchill, and were called 
 Junius and Augustus. 
 
 On the 5th of February, Akaitcho sent for further sup]>Iies 
 of ammunition ; and by his people Captain Franklin was in- 
 formed that reports most unfavourable to that confidence so 
 requisite on the part of the Indians, were circulated, and 
 that it was said Mr. Weeks had not fulfilled some demands 
 made on him. 
 
 It Hppeared that the Esquunaux Augustus came from 
 
454 franklin's journey 
 
 the neighbourhood of Churchill, and on comparing their lan- 
 guage with (he printed books for the use of those of the same 
 name on the Labrador coast, it was essentially the same. 
 Augustus, after his arrival, erected a snow-house, cutting 
 out slabs of snow three feet long, six inches thick, and two 
 feet deep. The building was about eight feet high ; and 
 the layers of snow were placed over each other in a most me- 
 thodical form until a complete dome was erected. The en- 
 trance was approached by steps, which led into a hall or 
 porch ; then going through a passage there was an antecham- 
 ber. From thence you passed into another passage, on one 
 side of which was the cooking house, and on the other a re- 
 cess for wood. At one part of this passage was the fi re - pi ace, 
 the only one in the building. From thence you entered ano- 
 ther apartment, on each side of which were bed places, and 
 in the centre a sitting place. Beyond this was a smaller 
 apartment where the provisions belonging to the family were 
 carefully stowed. 
 
 On the 5ih of March, the people returned from Fort Pro- 
 vidence bringing all the stores that could be procured. It 
 consisted of a cask of flour, thirty-six pounds of sugar, forty 
 pounds of powder, and a roll of tobacco. Mr. Weeks took 
 the opportunity of writing to Captain Franklin to assure him 
 that the reports which had been circulated stating that he had 
 said they were only a party of adventurers was entirely with- 
 out foundation, but that on the contrary he had strove every 
 thing in his power to aid the efforts of the Expedition, and 
 had discountenanced Akaitcho when he signified to him his 
 intention of leaving all connection with Captain Franklin's 
 party. These declarations being made known to the Indians 
 then at Fort Enterprize, one of them asserted that he him- 
 self had heard Mr. Weeks express himself in contempt of 
 the expedition, and was surprised that he should deny that 
 he had said so. Akaitcho soon after this sent them the full- 
 est assurances that he would continue to render them every 
 service in his power. 
 
TO THE POLAR SRA. 455 
 
 On tlie 17th Mr. Back returned. lie bad proceeded as 
 far as Fort Chipewyan, havings travelled on foot since he took 
 his departure from Fort Enterprise, more than one thousand 
 miles. When he and Mr. Wentzel quitted Fort Enterprise 
 on the eighteenth of October, to visit Fort Providence, two 
 Canadians, two Indian hunters, and their wives accompanied 
 them. Their rout lay sometimes over lakes so thinly frozen, 
 that the ice often bent under them. On passing over one of the 
 lakes an instance occurred of the kindest feeling on the part 
 of the Indians; provisions beingscarce, one of the women mak- 
 ing a hole through the ice,caughta tine fish,which they refused 
 to partake of, saying that they were accustomed to seasons 
 of hunger, and could therefore better bear up under the 
 privation than the gentlemen who were with them. This 
 was not a solitary instance of such generous feeling, but oc- 
 occurred in subsequent parts of their journey. In one instance 
 while attempting to cross a branch of the Great Slave Lake, 
 Mr. Back fell through the ice; but fortunately by the aid of 
 his companions he was quickly extricated. On the first of 
 November lue party arrived safe at Fort Providence, an 
 establishment of the North-west company, and were kindly 
 received by Mr. Weeks, who was in charge of that post. 
 
 Mr. Back was so dissatisfied with the information he re- 
 ceived at this post of the progress of the various stores which 
 were to be expected, that he resolved to proceed so the 
 Athabaska Lake to enquire into the cause of the neglect, and 
 to expedite their conveyance ; and dispatching the packet of 
 letters and a few musket balls to Fort Enterprise as before 
 noticed, waited the freezing up of the Great Slave Lake, in 
 order to proceed on his enquiries. While he remained at 
 Fort Providence, a party of the Slave Indians arrived with 
 furs; and from their reports it appeared they had a knowledge 
 of the settlement at Fort Enterprise, and would have paid 
 them a visit, but feared meeting some of the Copper Indian 
 nation. 
 
 On the 27th of December, Mr. Back left Fort Providence 
 
456 franklin's journey 
 
 for the purpose of crossing the lake, which was now suffici- 
 ently frozen. The keenness of the wind was severe, and at 
 the solicitations of the servants Mr. Back wrapped himself up 
 in a rein-deer skin and a blanket, and placing himself on a 
 sledge, was lashed on, leaving the head sufficiently at liberty 
 just to notice the road, and on the ninth arrived at some fish- 
 ing huts near Stony Island, which some Indians occupied, 
 where they remained for the night. On the succeeding day 
 they set out at an early hour, and reached the residence of 
 the North-west Company on Moose-deer Island. Here he 
 found additional information that the stores which were to be 
 forwarded had not arrived, only five packages being at the 
 fort. At this place he met the two Esquimaux, who were 
 to join the expedition as interpreters. 
 
 Disappointed of the stores so necessary for the expedition, 
 Mr. Back resolved to proceed to Fort Chipewyan on the 
 Athabaska Lake. Accordingly on the twenty-third of De- 
 cember, he set out for that place, accompanied by the Cana- 
 dian Beauparlant and Bois Brules. The severity of the wea- 
 ther greatly affected them in their journey, which notwith- 
 standing all the sufferings they had to endure, they accom- 
 plished on the second of January, after au interval of eleven 
 days from the time of their leaving Fort Providence. Mr. 
 G. Keith and Mr. Macgilliray were greatly surprised at his 
 presence, as was also Mr. Simpson, theresidentat the Hud- 
 son's Bay Fort; for it had been reported to them that the 
 party had been killed by the Esquimaux. 
 
 Mr. Back sent a requisition to the heads of each Company 
 desiring a supply of ammunition, tobacco, spirits, and other 
 stores, stating that unless his request was complied with, the 
 Expedition could not proceed. He remained at Fort Chi- 
 pewyan five weeks, but could not obtain the supplies he re- 
 quired. During this time a few laden sledges arrived, which 
 brought letters from Great Britain, for Captain Franklin and 
 bis people ; and after earnestly requesting that supplies 
 might be sent from the depots as early in the year as could 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 457 
 
 be accomplished, Mr. Back prepared for his return to Fort 
 Enterprise. 
 
 On the 9th of February, having' every thing- prepared, Mr. 
 Back set out. He had under his direction four sledges, 
 laden with goods for the Expedition, and a fifth belonging 
 to the Hudson's Bay Company. He returned exactly by the 
 same route, suffering no other inconvenience but that arising 
 from the r!iafit*ii of the snow-shoe, and bad weather. Some 
 Indians, whom they met on the banks of Little Buffalo Ri- 
 ver, were rather surprised at seeing them, for they had heard 
 that they were on an island, which was surrounded by Esqui- 
 maux. The dogs were almost worn out, and their feet raw, 
 when, on February the 20th, they arrived at Moose-Deer 
 island all in good order. Towards the end of the month, 
 two men arrived with letters from Lieutenant Franklin, con- 
 taining some fresh demands, the major part of which Mr. 
 Back was fortunate enough to procure without the least trou- 
 ble. Having arranj^ed the accounts and receipts between 
 the Companies and the Expedition, and sent every thing be- 
 fore him to Fort Providence, he prepared to depart ; and it 
 is but justice to the gentlemen of both parties at Moose Deer 
 Island to remark, that they afforded the means of forward- 
 ing the stores in the most cheerful and pleasant manner. 
 
 On the 7th of March, Mr. Back arrived at Fort Provi- 
 dence, and found the stores safe and in good order. There 
 being no certainty when an Indian, who was to accompany 
 him, would arrive, and impatience to join his companions 
 increasing, after making the necessary arrangements with Mr. 
 Weeks respecting the stores, on March the 10th Mr. Back 
 quitted the fort, with two men, who had each a couple of 
 dogs and a sledge laden with provision. On the 13th they 
 met the Indian, near Icy Portage, and, on the 17th, at an 
 early hour, he arrived at Fort Enterprise, having travelled 
 about eighteen miles a-day. He had the pleasure of meet- 
 ing his friends all in good health, after an absence of nearly 
 five months, during which time he had travelled one thousand 
 
 P. V 50. N N N 
 
458 franklin's journey 
 
 one hundred and four miles, on snow-shoes, and had no other 
 covering at night, in the woods, than a blanket and deer- 
 skirt, witU the thermometer frequently at 40 degree^, and 
 oqce at 57 degrees ; and sometimes passing two or three days 
 without tasting food. 
 
 About this time a chief named the Hook, who was next 
 in onthority to Akaitcho, sent a message, that if Captain 
 Fr^nkiin would send him aiumunition, he W(mld provide a 
 fetock of provisions for the Expedition in their passage along 
 1 he Copper-mine River. As he generally occupied during 
 the summer months R portion of country adjoining Great 
 Bear Lake* and near the Copper mountain, it was easy for 
 bim to provide a supply; but there was such a scarcity of 
 every article, that Captain Franklin could not with any pro- 
 priety ^p^reany part; be however sent the Hook word that 
 he would give them an order on the agents of the North- 
 west Compaay for the value of any provisions they might 
 provide for them ; aad desired that as in the interim th^ y 
 would probably take their stock of furs to Fort Providence, 
 they would satisfy themselves by speaking to Mr, Weeks on 
 the subject. It appei^red further that the Hook was ill aui 
 wiiihed tJ have the advice of Dr. Richardson. 
 
 The variety of difficulties which presented themselves 
 worked upon the fear8(>f some of the servants of the Expe- 
 dition ; and it appea^red ihat Pierre St. Germain, one of tUe 
 interfH'cters^ bad so expressed himself as to excite a disin- 
 clination in soroe of the iudiuns to proceed. On being ques- 
 tioned by Captain Franklin he acknowledged, after muph 
 equivocaiio!i, that lie bad spoken to them of the very great di|- 
 ficuities they would have to meet, and his fe^r» for u^l thow 
 personal safety ; and it further appeared that he w^ms excited 
 in a measure to express himself against tile succe^ of tjm 
 enterprise, because he did not receive that attention h^ 
 thought belonged to him. On being threatened to be ar* 
 rested and sent to England to be punished, h« exclaimed. 
 tbiit he might a8 well 4li« in the jouiaey they were on the 
 
TO THL POLAR SEA. 459 
 
 eve of taking, as in any other way ; and althougli he thought 
 such would be the result, he would willingly continue with 
 the Expedition. As his services were of importance, no 
 further steps were taken, than to admonish him as to his fu- 
 ture conversations. 
 
 On the 29th, Akaitcho arrived at the Fort, having been 
 sent for to request i»im to procure a stock of provisions pre- 
 vious to the commencement of their journey, and also to he 
 satisfied as to his accompanying- the party. In reply hesai<l 
 that his hunters should tise every exertion to procure a good 
 store of provisions, and that he and his men would accompany 
 them to the mouth of (he Coppcr-iuine River; and if they 
 were unmolested by the Esquimaux, they would extend their 
 journey farther. The chief desired ihat in case of meeting 
 with any other tribes of Indians or with the Esquimaux, that 
 the captain viould influence them to live in peace with 
 his people; a request that was heatd with the greatest s;i- 
 tisfaction hy Captain Franklin, and which he gave the full- 
 est absunmce to Akaitcho he would endeavour to promote. 
 
 On the 4th of April the last supply of goods from Fort 
 Providence arrived, the fruits of Mr. Back's arduous journey 
 to the Athabasca Lake ; and on the 17th Solomon Belanger 
 and Jean Baptisie Behnger, set out for Slave Lake, with a 
 box containing the journals of theofHcers, charts, drawings, 
 observations, and letters addressed to the Secretary of State 
 for Colonial Affairs. They also conveyed a letter for Cover* 
 nor Williams, in which Captain Franklin requested that he 
 would, if possible, send a schooner to Wager Bay with pro- 
 visions and clothing to meet the exigences of the party, should 
 they succeed in reaching that part of the coast. 
 
 About the commencement of the month of April, provi. 
 sions became extremely scarce; the hunters sent in no sup- 
 plies, and the women and children belonging to the Indians, 
 who preferred a stationary residence near the house^ to the 
 continual removing to which they were subject in following 
 the hunter?, began to endure great privations, and were 
 
 I^ N N 2 
 
460 franklin's journey 
 
 compelled to sustain themselves by piokiniif up the bones of 
 the animals winch had been killed, and pounding them for 
 food. Pieces of the hides of the deer were also cut up and 
 eaten. The appearance that there would be shortness of 
 food for the whole party was very alarming, and only one 
 moose-deer, which had been killed at the distance of nearly 
 fifty miles from the house, was procured for several days* 
 On the 27th a supply was sent in from Akaitcho, who had 
 taken Augustus, one of the Esquimaux with him when ke 
 jast quitted the neighbourhood of Fort Enterprise ; and who 
 now returned in company with the persons sent with provi- 
 sions, and expressed great satisfaction at the reception he 
 met with among Akaitcho's people. Dr. Richardson, who 
 had made an excursion to collect specimens of natural curio- 
 sity, returned on the seventh of May, and reported that he 
 had visited the Indian tents, who had received an accession 
 of several families of old people, which occasioned such a 
 consumption of provisions as made him apprehensive there 
 would not be sufficient provision obtained against the time,- 
 for the departure of the Expedition. 
 
 On the 11th Mr. Wentzel, who had been to the Indian 
 lodges, returned, having made the necessary arrangements 
 with A kaiJcho for the drying of meat for summer use, and 
 bringing fresh meat to the fort and for procuring a sufficient 
 quantity of the resin of the spruce fir, or as it is termed by 
 the voyagers gum, for repairing the canoes previous to start- 
 ing and during the voyage, lie promised payment to the 
 Indian woman who should bring in any of the latter article, 
 and sent several men to the woods to search tor it. 
 
 As Mr. Wentzel had expressed a desire of proceeding no 
 farther than the mouth of Copper-mine River, which was se- 
 conded by the Indians, who wished him to return with them, 
 Captain Franklin readily acceded to his wishes; and think- 
 ing- that he could render him the most effectual service in es- 
 tablishing depots of provisions at certain places, arranged a 
 plan to that effect to be modified by circumstances. Ducks 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 46] 
 
 and geese now bei^an to appear in considerable numbers. 
 Blueberries, cranberries, and other symptoms of the advance 
 of milder weather, presented themseives ; the sap ran in the 
 pine trees; and though the ground continued frozen, the 
 power of tlie sun was evident. 
 
 On the 16th a Chief of the Copper Indian nation arrived 
 from Fort Providence. He brought with him his son. Be- 
 \n<r affected with snow blindness, Dr. Richardson relieved 
 
 o 
 
 him by pouring a few drops of laudanum into his eyes, a re- 
 medy which had always proved efTectual wheiieverany of the 
 party became affected by that complaint. On the 21st all 
 the men belonging to the Expedition who had been sent to 
 assist Akaitcho returned, and information was giving that 
 Akaitcho was on hisjonrney to the Fort, and that he ex- 
 pected to be received with a salute of muskets and other ho- 
 nours. As soon as his approach wasannounced, a flag was 
 hoisted, and a salute fired ; which was returned by his own 
 people. His standard bearer marched before him, and he 
 followed with martial step, and was received with all possi- 
 ble parade by the captain and his party. The calumet or 
 pipe was passed round the assembly, each taking a whiff, and 
 a present of such things aij could be produced and spared, 
 placed before the chief, whose people seated themselves in a 
 circle around him. He then made a speech, in the con- 
 clusion of which he expressed his hope that the Great Chief 
 (the King ofGreat Britain) would send him a present. This 
 he was assured siiould be done provided ho was faithful to 
 the engagements he had made. He then spoke of many dis- 
 appointments he had experienced, and said that the reports 
 he had received were to the discredit of the party and caused 
 lum to doubt as to their being what they represented them- 
 selves, in conclusion he said that he should decline the pre- 
 sent laid before him. 
 
 To these observations Captain Franklin replied, that 
 Akaitcho ought not to credit the reports he had heard to the 
 prejudice of the Expedition, and that it was within his (the 
 
402 franklin's JOURNt v 
 
 chief's) knowledge, by hisiiebtsto theCoriipnny having 1)#>pn 
 cancelled, that his connection with the Expedition would be 
 serviceable to his own interest, and to the interest of his peo- 
 ple. Captain Franklin also stated that on his part he felt 
 disappointment, as Akaitcho had not fulfilled his enoajT^- 
 ments in providing that supply of provisions which he ^ave 
 them to expect; and that indeed there appeared more real 
 ground for complaint on the part of those attached to the Ex- 
 pedition than there was on that of Akaitcho. Upon being 
 silenced by these arguments, he began again to express his 
 opinion that the whole party would perish in the attempt to 
 reach the sea, and insinuated that the presents set before 
 him were not to the extent of his expectations ; and that the 
 quantity of rum was not sufficient. Upon this he was assured 
 that it M'as all the rum they h:id, and that the other arti( les 
 were to the utmost extent that tliey could spare. Finding 
 all his efforts to obtain more unavaila])le, he should, he said 
 wait the arrival of his brother, who was named Humpy, be* 
 fore he accepted the present; his people however carne af- 
 terwards to fetch the rum, and this was considered as an 
 evidence of content. 
 
 On the 25th, clothing, and other necessary articles, were 
 issued to the Canadians as their equipment for the ensuing 
 voyage. Two or three blankets, some cloth, iron-work, and 
 trinkets were reserved for distribution amongst the Esqui- 
 maux on the sea coast. Laced dresses were given to Au- 
 gustus and Junius, and it is impossible to describe the joy thnt 
 took possession of the latter on the receipt of this pre- 
 sent. The happy little fellow burst into ecstatic Faughter, as 
 he surveyed the different articles of his gay habiliments. 
 In the afternoon Flumpy, Akaitcho's elder brother, Annoe- 
 thai yazzeh, another of his brothers, and one of the guides, 
 arrived with the remainder of Akaitcho's band ; as also Long- 
 legs, brother to the Hook, with three of his band. There 
 were now in theencampment thirty hunters, thirty-one women, 
 and sixty children, in all one hundred and twenty-one, of the 
 
 m 
 
TO THE POLAR 8EA. 4G3 
 
 Copper (udian or Uetl-Knife tribe. 'I be rest of the nation 
 weie with the Hook on the lower part of the Copper-mine 
 River. Aiuioethai-yazzeh is remarkable arnonc^st the Indians 
 for the number of his descendants ; lie has eighteen children 
 living' by two wives, of whom sixteen were at the fort at this 
 t'tmo. 
 
 On the 9Gt\i they met the heads of the Indian party again 
 in council. Akaitcho complained that Mr. Wentzel had ob- 
 tained a greater distribution of presents for the Canadians 
 than they ought to have received, and thereby his share had 
 been reduced ; upon which Mr. Wontzol reminded him ihar 
 on the very outset it had been stated to him that tlie presents 
 were to be mi^de to him on his return from accompany in i»: 
 the Expedition ; and his brother Humpy said that he himself 
 was present at a conference when that declaration was made. 
 One of the guides now declared that he would accompany 
 the white people to the sea, ej^pecting the presents on his re- 
 turn. These assertions so silenced Akaitclio, that after some 
 iurthcr enquiries made by him whether the trading Compa- 
 nies were rich, and an effort to obtain a few more kettles 
 and blankets, to supply which the officers each g;ave up a 
 blanket from their own beds, he ceased urging his request. 
 It seemed e^vident that his purpose was to gef every article 
 the party had taken with them as presents to the Ksquimaux 
 or other strangers they might meet, and before the day closed 
 he explicitly declared to his people that if any of them chose 
 to follow t!>e Expedition they might, but that the presents 
 were too few to satisfy him. Upon this several tame for- 
 wards and declared their readiness to proceed, and then re- 
 ceived their share of the presents ; a proceeding most con- 
 saiatory to Captain Franklin, as rendering the conduct of the 
 chief of very little importance. 
 
 On the 28ih, Long-legs had a meeting with the captain, 
 and stated that his brother the Hook was on the borders of 
 the Capper- mine River procuring provisions fortU^J party; 
 Akaitcho entering the room at the time, assumed ^ cheerful 
 
464 franklin's journey 
 
 demeanor, and said that as he was fully satisfied tliecaptniri 
 fiad it not in his power to make any more presents, he should 
 rely upon liis promises, and would proceed to the river as 
 soon as the weather would permit them to travel. 
 
 By the end of the month of May, there wasdaylij^ht dur- 
 iui^ the wholetwenty-four hours. Every thinj^ being" ready as 
 far as their resources would admit, on the 4th of June one 
 party of the Expedition, headed by Dr. Richardson, set out 
 on theirjourney ofdiscovery. They had threesledges, drawn 
 by dogs, to convey the stores and other necessaries, and each 
 man had to take also a package of about eighty pounds, be- 
 sides such articles of their own as were necessary. The 
 whole party comprehended twenty-three arsons, consisting 
 of Indian hunters and guides with their wives, exclusive of 
 children. On the same day Akaitcho and the hunters 
 under his direction quitted the house. On their leaving, 
 twenty balls were giving to each hunter, with a proportion of 
 powder, and they were desired to make depots of provisions 
 for ihe Expedition on the road to Point Lake. It was then 
 particularly urged upon the chief, in the presence of all his 
 people, that he should make a depot of provisionsat this place 
 previous to next September, as a resource should the party 
 return this way. fie and the guides not only promised to 
 see this done, but suggested that it would be more secure 
 if placed in the cellar, or in Mr. Wentzel's room. The 
 Dog-ribs, they said, would respect any thing that was in the 
 house, as knowing it (o belong to the white people. At the 
 close of the conversation Akaitcho exclaimed with a smile, 
 " I see now that you have really no goods left, (the rooms 
 and stores being completely stripped,) and therefore I shall 
 not trouble you any more, but use my best endeavours to 
 prepare provisions for you, and I think if the animals are to- 
 lerably numerous, we may get plenty before you can embark 
 on the ri/er.'* 
 
 The snow was now confined to the bases of the hills, and 
 the hunters said that the spnson was early . The operations 
 
TO THK POLAR Sl£A. 4G5 
 
 of nature, however, seemed very tardy. They were eager 
 to be gone, and dreaded the lapse of summer, before the 
 Indians would allow it had begun. On the 11th the geese 
 and ducks had left the vicinity of Fort Enterprise, and pro- 
 ceeded to the northward. Some young ravens and whiskey- 
 johns made their appearance at this time. 
 
 On he 12th Winter River was nearly cleared of ice, and 
 on the 13th the men returned, having left Dr. Richardson 
 on the borders of Point Lake. Dr. Richardson stated by- 
 letter that the snow was deeper in many parts near his en- 
 campment than it had been at any time last winter near Fort 
 Enterprise, and that the ice at Point Lake had scarcely be- 
 gun to decay. Although the voyagers were much fatigued 
 on their arrival, and had eaten nothing for the last twenty- 
 four hours, they were very cheerful, and expressed a desire 
 to start with the remainder of the stores iiext naorning. 
 
 On the I6th and 16th of June, the canoes having been re« 
 paired, the remainder of the party attached to the Expedition 
 took their departure from Fort Enterprise, full of spirits at 
 embarking in the further pursuit of the great object which en- 
 gaged their attention. In one of the rooms they left a box 
 in which was deposited a journal of their progress, which, on 
 the return of Mr. Wentzel, was to be conveyed to England 
 in the most ready manner in which it could be accomplished. 
 The room was blocked up, and, by the advice of Mr. Went- 
 zel, a drawing representing a man holding a dagger in a 
 threatening attitude, was fixed to the door, to deter any In- 
 dians from breaking it open. They now directed their course 
 towards the Dog-rib Rock, but as the servants were loaded 
 with the weight of near one hundred and eighty pounds each, 
 they proceeded at a slow pace. The day was extremely 
 warm, and the musquitoes, whose attacks had hitherto been 
 feeble, issued forth in swarms from the marshes, and were 
 very tormenting. Having walked five miles they encamped 
 near a small cluster of pines about two miles from the Dog- 
 rib Rock. The canoe party had not been seen since they set 
 
 P. V. 20. O o o 
 
466 FRANKLlIt's JOURNEY 
 
 out. The bunters went forward to Marten Lake, intending 
 to wait at a place where two deer were deposited. At Mar- 
 ten Lake they joined the canoe party, and encamped with 
 them. They had the mortification of learning from the hun- 
 ters that the meat they had put in store here, had been de- 
 stroyed by the wolverenes, and they had in consequence to 
 furnish the supper from their scanty stock of dried meat. 
 
 On the 21st of June, some of the party reached the tents 
 on Point Lake, where Dr. Richardson and the people who 
 accompanied him had fixed their residence, and in the even- 
 ing of the same day, Mr. Wentzel and the party with the ca- 
 noes, also arrived, after a most fatiguing journey. The ice 
 on the lake was still six or seven feet thick, and there was 
 no appearance of its decay except near the edges ; and as it 
 was evident that, by remaining here until it should be re- 
 moved, they might lose every prospect of success in the un- 
 dertaking. Captain Franklin determined on dragging the 
 stores along its surface, until they should come to a part 
 of the river where they could embark ; and directions were 
 ^iven this evening for each man to prepare a train for the con- 
 veyance of his portion of the stores. 
 
 Akaitcho and the hunters were encamped here, but their 
 families, and the rest of the tribe, had gone off two days be- 
 fore to the Beth-see-to, a large lake to the northward, where 
 they intended passing the summer. Long-legs and Keskar- 
 rah had departed, to desire the Hook to collect as much 
 meat as he could against their arrival at his lodge. They 
 learnt that Akailcho and his party had expended all the am- 
 munition they had received at Fort Enterprise, without 
 having- contributed any supply of provison. Dr. Richardson 
 had, however, through the assistance of two hunters he kept 
 with him, prepared two hundred pounds of dried meat, which 
 was now their sole dependance for the journey. 
 
 The number of the hunters was now reduced to five, as 
 two of the most active declined going any further, their fa- 
 ther M ho thought himself dying, having solicited them to 
 
TO THE POLAR SKA. 4G7 
 
 remain and close his eyes. These five were furnished with 
 ammunition, and sent forward to hunt on the south border 
 of the lake, with directions to place any meat they might pro- 
 cure near the edge of the lake, and set up marks to guide to 
 the spots. Akaitcho, his brother, the guide, and three 
 other men, remained. They were much surprised to per- 
 ceive an extraordinary difference in climate in so short an 
 advance to the northward as fifty miles. The snow here 
 was lying in large patches on the hills. The dwarf-birch 
 and willows were only just beginning to open their buds* 
 which had burst forth at Fort Enterprise many days before 
 their departure. Vegetation seemed to be three weeks or a 
 month later here than at that place. The provision consist- 
 ed of only two bags of pemmican, two of pounded meat, 
 five of suet, and two small bundles of dried provision, to- 
 gether with fresh meat suflicient for supper at niivht. Tt 
 was gratifying to witness the readiness with which the men 
 prepared for and commenced a journey, which threatened 
 to be so very laborious, as each of them had to drag up- 
 wards of one hundred and eighty pounds on his sledge. 
 
 The sufferings of the people in this early stage of the jour- 
 ney were truly discouraging. Captain Franklin, therefore, 
 determined on leaving- the third canoe, which had been 
 principally carried to provide against any accident to the 
 others. They would thus gain three men, to lighten the 
 loads of those who were most lame, and an additional dog 
 for each of the other canoes. It was accordingly properly 
 secured oii a stage erected for the purpose near the encamp- 
 ment. Dried meat was issued for supper, but in the coursii 
 of the evening the Indians killed two deer. 
 
 They continued their journey till the 29th, when their at- 
 tention was drawn to some pine branches which were scat- 
 tered on the ice, and which proved to be marks directing to 
 a place where the hunters had deposited the carcases of two 
 deer. Aknitcho, judging from the appearance of the meat, 
 
 O o o 2 
 
468 FRANKLIN'S JOURNEY 
 
 thought it had been placed there three days before, and that 
 the hunters were considerably in advance. 
 
 On the 30th of June, the men having- gummed the canoes, 
 embarked with their burdens to descend the river. The ri- 
 ver was about two hundred yards wide, and its course being 
 uninterrupted, a sanguine hope was indulged of getting on 
 more speedily, until they perceived that the waters of Rock- 
 nest Lake were still bound by ice, and that recourse must 
 again be had to the sledges. The ice was much decayed, 
 and the party were exposed to great risk of breaking through 
 in making the traverse. In one part they had to cross an 
 open channel in the canoes, and in another were compelled 
 to quit the Lake, and make a portage along the land. When 
 the party got upon the ice again, the guide evinced much 
 uncertainty as to the route. The ice cracked at every step, 
 and the party were obliged to separate widely to prevent 
 accidents. 
 
 The guide being still uncertain as to the road they were 
 pursuing, they came to a bay on the north side of Rock-nest 
 Lake, expecting to find the Copper-mine Fliver ; but to their 
 great disappointment, they perceived only a small stream 
 emptying itself into the Lake. The guide now confessed 
 that he knew not where he was, and desired the party to 
 wait while he ascended a hill to take a view of the country, 
 that he might set himself right. While waiting his return, 
 two rein-deer were seen running swiftly near them, pur- 
 sued by a wolf; but the latter, on perceiving the party, fled 
 away when within a few paces of the hindmost of the deer. 
 On the return of the guide, he said that he had discovered 
 the Copper-mine River, at a distant part of the lake ; and 
 tiny immediately proceeded towards it. The canoes and 
 stores were dragged over the ice, and passing two hazardous 
 rapids, they approached the Copper-mine River. It was 
 two hundred yards wide at this place, and the sides were well 
 covered with wood. At this place Akaitcho and several of 
 the Indians met them, and stated that their companions were 
 
TO THE POIvAR SEA. 469 
 
 behind, baving placed five rein-deer imder cover for the 
 
 party. These were immediately sent for. 
 
 They embarked at nine in the morning on the 2nd of July 
 
 and descended a succession of sirong rapids for three miles. 
 
 They Mere carried along with rapidity, shooting over large 
 
 stones, upon which a ssingle stroke Mould have been destruc- 
 tive to the canoes, and were also in danger of breaking them, 
 for the want of the long poles which lie along their bottoms 
 and equalize their cargoes, as they pinnged very much, and 
 on one occasion the first canoe was almost filled with the 
 M'aves. In one place the passage was blocked up by drift 
 ice, still deeply covered with snow A channel for the ca- 
 noes was made for some distance wiih the hatchets and poles; 
 but on reaching the more compact part, they were under the 
 necessity of transporting the canoes and cargoes across it; 
 an operation of much hazard, as the snoM' concealed the nu- 
 merous holes Mhich the Mater had made in the ice. 
 
 The guide was again in doubt as to the correctness of his 
 rout, and the party rested for the day Mhile the guide ami 
 two men were sent to examine the country. ]n the evening 
 some of the hunters arrived, and stated that it m as reported 
 the party had perished in crossing one of the rapids. 
 This arose from the circumstance of one of the dogs having 
 t^vo days before set off in pursuit of some deer, and finding 
 the encampment of the hunters, had joined thrm; and these 
 ])eople being always disposed to a|)prehensions and fears, 
 concluded that this dog had escaped alone. The consequence 
 of these surmises was, that leaving the meat they had col- 
 lected, they set out for the place at Mhich they supposed 
 Long-legs Mas hunting, and the distance they had left the 
 meat behind was too great for them to return and fetch it. 
 Akaitcho and the hunters noM' tlierefore proceeded forwards 
 to a spot eminent lor the success which the hunters met with, 
 and M'here they calculated upon meeting with plenty of deer. 
 In passing through the rapids which they had crossed, the 
 boats had sustained considerable injury, and Captain Frank- 
 
4tO FR.A Nylin's journey 
 
 I in no V ordered that in future no rapid should be entered un- 
 til the bowman, had examined whether it were safe to go 
 through it, as otherwise they were directed to land and con- 
 vey the canoes over. Having given these directions, early 
 in the morning of the 4th of July the party again set forward, 
 and on the same day passed throifgh several dangerous rapids, 
 the persons in charge of the boats taking the precaution, 
 wherever any hazard appeared, of landing several of the ar- 
 ticles ; yet notwithstanding all their care, the bark of one of 
 their canoes was split. The damage however was soon re- 
 paired. After this they came to a part of the river where the 
 drift ice had accumulated so as to fill the channel, and they 
 were compelled to carry the cargoes and canoes over it. In 
 doing this, three of the people fell through, but sustained no 
 other inconvenience than a thorough wetting 
 
 After travelling upwards of twenty miles they encamped, 
 and received the agreeable intelligence that Akaitcho and 
 his hunters had killed eight musk oxen. Some of the party 
 were sent off to assist in bringing in this seasonable supply. 
 
 The musk oxen, like the buffalo, herd together in bands, 
 and generally frequent the barren grounds during the sum- 
 mer months, keeping near the rivers, but retire to the woods 
 in winter. They seem to be less watchful than most other 
 wild animals, and when grazing are not difficult to approach* 
 provided the hunters go against the wind ; when two or three 
 men oret so near a herd as to fire at them from different 
 
 o 
 
 points, these animals instead of separating or running away, 
 huddle closer together, and several are generally killed; but 
 if the wound is not mortal they become enraged an^l dart in 
 the most furious manner at the hunters, who must be very 
 dexterous to evade them. They can defend themselves by their 
 powerful horns against the wolves and bears, which, as the 
 Indians say, they not unfrequently kill. They feed on the 
 same substance with the rein-deer, and the prints of the 
 feet of these two animals are so much alike, that it requires 
 the eye of an experienced hunter to distinguish ihcm The 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 471 
 
 hunters added two more to their stock in the course of the 
 night, and as they had now more meat than the party could 
 consume fresh, they delayed their voyage next day to dry it. 
 The hunters were supplied with more ammunition, and sent 
 forward ; but Akaitcho, his brother, and another Indian, re- 
 mained. 
 
 The officers had treated A kaitcho more d istantly since their 
 departure from Point Lake, to mark their opinion of his mis- 
 conduct. The diligence in hunting, however, which he had 
 evinced at this place, induced them to receive him more fa- 
 miliarly when he came lo the tent. During conversation he 
 endeavoured to excite suspicions against the Hook, by say- 
 ing, " I am aware that you consider me the worst man of my 
 nation ; but I know the Hook to be a great rogue, and I 
 think he will disappoint you," 
 
 On the Cth, they again set forward, passing through seve- 
 ral more r.ip^ds. On the following day they arrived at the 
 Hook*s encampment. There were with him at this time only 
 three of the hunters, and some old men and rhoir families, 
 the remamder of his party remaining on the confines of Bear 
 Lake. Keskarrah, one of the guides, had joined him some 
 days previous, as had his brother Long-legs, and on meeting 
 the Hook at once informed the captain what preparations he 
 had made in respect of provisions for the party. He said 
 thatan unusual scarcity of animals this season, together with 
 the circumstanceofhaving only just received a supply of am- 
 munition from Fort Providence, had prevented him from 
 collecting the quantity of meat he had wished to do. The 
 amount, indeed, he said, is very small, but I will cheerfully 
 give you what I have : we are too much indebted to the white 
 people, to allow them to want food on our lands, whilst we 
 have any to give theme Our families can live on fish until 
 we can procure more meat, but the season is too short to al- 
 low of your delaying, to gain subsistence in that manner. 
 He immediately desired, aloud, that the women should bring- 
 all the meat they had ; and sJoon collected sufficient to make 
 
472 fkankmnVs jouuney 
 
 three bag's an(i a halfof pemniican, besides some dried meat 
 and tong^ues. The party were truly delighted by this prompt 
 and clieerfu! behaviour, and would gladly have rewarded the 
 kindness of himself and his companions by some substantial 
 present, but ifere limited by the scantiness of their store to 
 a small donation of fifteen charges of amnnunition to each of 
 the chiefs; however they accepted notes on the North- 
 west Company, to be paid at Fort Providence; and to these 
 was subjoinod an order for a few articles of clothing, as an 
 additional present. 
 
 As the animals abound, at all times, on the borders of 
 Bear Lake, the Hook promised to remain on the east 
 side of it until the month of November, at a particu- 
 lar spot nearest to the Copper-mine River, from whence 
 there is a communication by a chain of lakes and portages. 
 There the principal deposit of provision was to be made ; but 
 during the summer the hunters were to be employed in putt- 
 iwi: up supplies of dried meat at convenient distances, not 
 only along the communication from this river, but also upon 
 its banks, as far down as the Copper Mountain. They were 
 also to place particular marks to guide to their stores. 
 
 The confidence manifested by the Hook in the assurances 
 of a liberal payment for what supplies he procured, was highly 
 pleasing, and Captain Franklin promised to send the neces- 
 sary documents by Mr. VYentzel. The great anxiety also 
 which the Hook expressed for the safety and welfare of the 
 party gaveadditional pleasure. After representing the nu- 
 merous hardships they would have to encounter in the strong- 
 est manner, though in language similar to what had often 
 been heard from Akaitcho, he earnestly entreated they 
 would be constantly on guard against the treachery of the Es- 
 quimaux ; and no less forcibly desired they would not pro- 
 ceed far along the coast, as they dreaded the consequences 
 of being exposed to a tempestuous sea in canoes, and having 
 to endure the cold of the autumn on a shore destitute of fuel. 
 The Hook, having been an invalid for several years, rejoiced 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 473 
 
 at tlie opportunity of consulting Dr. Hichardson, wlio imme- 
 diately gave him advice, and supplied him with medicine. 
 
 Proceeding on their voyage, and passing the base o(^ a 
 range of hills, and through several rapids, they arrived ai a 
 place which exhibited manifest tokens of having been recently 
 visited. They therefore encamped, arid made a large fire 
 as a signal, which was answered in a similar way. Mr. 
 Wontzel was immediately sent, in expectation of getting 
 provisions for ihem. On his return, they learned that the 
 party consisted of three old Copper Indians, with their fa- 
 miliesi w*l»o had supported themselves with the bow and ar- 
 row' since last autumn, not having visited Fort Providence 
 for more than a year; and so successful had they been, thai' 
 they ^ were enabled to supply the party with upwards of se- 
 venty pounds of dried meat, and six moose skins fit for mak- 
 ing shoes, which were the more valuable as they were ap-' 
 preVenWve of being barefooted before the journey could be**" 
 completed^. They now came to a rapid which had been the 
 theme of discourse with the Indians for many days, and which 
 they had dfescril^ed as impassable in canoes. The river here 
 desceii'd^ for three quarters of a mile, in a deep, but nar- 
 row and' crooked channel, which it has cut through the 
 foot of a hill of six hundred feet high. It is confined be- 
 tween perpendicular 'cliffs, resembling stone walls, varying 
 in hei'ghf from eighty 'to' 'one hundred and fifty feet, on which" 
 lies a mass of fine sand. The body of the river, pent within ' 
 this narrow chasm, dashed furiously round the projecting 
 rocky' columns, and discharged itself at the northern extre- 
 mity in' a steet of foam. The canoes, after being light- 
 ened of part of their cargoes, ran through' this deifile with- 
 out sustaining any injury. In the evening the Indians made 
 a larg^ fire, as a signal to the Hook*s party that they had 
 passed the terrific rapid in safety. The hunters were sent 
 forward to hunt at the Copper Mountams, under the super- 
 intendence of Adani, the interpreter, who received strict 
 P. V. 20. Pp p' 
 
i'74 FBANKLIN'S JOURNEY 
 
 injunctJonfl not to permit them to make any large fires, lest 
 they should alarm straggling parties of the Esquimaux. 
 
 The latitude of their situation at this time was 67deg. 
 10 min. long. 116 deg. 25 min. They had provisions for four- 
 teen days; although the weather was warm, much snow re- 
 mained on the mountains. The Indians, knowing the course of 
 the river to be now nothing but a succession of rapids, said it 
 was useless to take the canoes any farther, but Captain Parry 
 expecting that circumstances might arise which would require 
 ■the use of a canoe, directed one to be conveyed with the party. 
 
 As they were now entering the confines of the Esquimaux 
 country, the guides recommended caution in lighting 
 fires, lest they should discover themselves, adding that the 
 same reason would lead them to travel as much as possible in 
 the valleys, and to avoid crossing the tops of the hills. Large 
 masses of ice twelve or fourteen feet thick, were still ad- 
 hering to many parts of the bank, indicating the tardy de- 
 parture of winter from this inhospitable land, but the earth 
 around was rich with vegetation. In the evening twomusk- 
 oyen being seen on the beach, were pursued and killed. 
 Whilst waiting to embark the meat, the Indians rejoined, 
 and reported they had been attacked by a bear, which 
 sprung upon them whilst they were conversing together. 
 His attack was so sudden that they had not time to level their 
 guns properly, and all missed except Akaitcho, who, 
 less confused than the rest, took deliberate aim, and shot the 
 animal dead. 
 
 Being informed that they were now within a short distance 
 of those parts which the Esquimaux always frequent, the 
 tents were pitched and a party sent forward to examine the 
 country. The remains of an Esquimaux residence were 
 visible, and a watch was constantly kept to prevent surprise. 
 The remainder of the party slept with their arms, ready to 
 repel every assault ; and Junius and Augustus, the two 
 Esquimaux who were attached to the expedition, were sent 
 forward to seek for an interview with some of their nation. 
 
to THE PUI.Atl SIvA. 475 
 
 Tliey wefe most desirous of bein^ so employed ; and each 
 concealing a brace of pistols in their dress, and being pro- 
 vided with looking glasses, beads, and other trinkets, pre- 
 pared to depart. It was with much reluctance on the part 
 of Captain Franklin that they were put in an exposed situa- 
 tion ; but they cheerfully engaged in the duty ; and putting 
 on the Esquimaux dresses which had been prepared for 
 them, and receiving directions to state to their people that 
 the white men were desirous of promoting peace and recon- 
 ciliation between them and the neighbouring nations, they 
 set forward on their journey. They were also to enquire by 
 what passage large ships might be sent to the Esquimaux 
 people. If possible, he was to prevail on some of the people 
 to return with him: but if h© found no inhabitants, he was 
 to return without delay. The Indians were required at 
 this time to keep within their encampment, and the solici- 
 tude for the welfare of the two Esquimaux was such as to 
 induce the officers to ascend a hill which was near, for the 
 purpose of ascertaining their return. 
 
 Dr. Richardson, having the first watch, had gone to thtr 
 summit of the hill and remained seated, contemplating the 
 river that washed the precipice under his feet, long after 
 dusk had hid distant objects from his view. His thoughts 
 were, perhaps, far distant from the surrounding scenery, 
 when he was roused by an indistinct noise behind him, and 
 on looking round perceived that nine white wolves had 
 ranged themselves in form of a crescent, and were advanc- 
 ing, apparently with the intention of driving him into the 
 river. On his rising up they halted, and when he advanced 
 they made way for his passage down to the tents. He had 
 his gun in his hand, but forbore to fire, lest there should 
 be Esquimaux in the neighbourhood. During Mr. Went- 
 zel's middle watch, the wolves appeared repeatedly on the 
 summit of the hill, and at one time they succeeded in driving 
 a deer over the orecioice The animal was stunned by the 
 
476 franklin's journey 
 
 fall, but recovering itself, swam across the stream, and 
 escaped up the river. 
 
 The night having passed aw^y without t^he return of either 
 Junius or Augustus, Captain Franklin resolved to seek fo^ 
 them. It was with difficulty that they prevailed on the In- 
 dians to remain at the encampjpient, wjbjic^ it w^s wished 
 they should do, to prevent their Jbeing ^p^n by t^e Esqui- 
 maux. AJsaitcho was, as usual, full of fearful apprehen- 
 sions, saying that Junius apd Augustus pust have Jbeei^ 
 killed, and that no doubt .the Esquimaux were collecting 
 for the purpose of attacking the party. After much P^'^r 
 suasion, however, he agreed to remain, provided Mr. Went- 
 zel continue^ with them, which he accordingly did. 
 
 Having thus far succeeded, the party proceeded alon^ 
 the river, each person carryipg a gjin and a dagger. Qif 
 ascending a hill to take a view of the country before them, 
 to their great disappointment, no sea was discernible, but 
 an extent of land bounded by a range of hills, quite po;i- 
 trary to what their guides led them ^o expect. In the cou^^s^q 
 of the day they met Junius, who was re^iuroing to ififqrm |he 
 party that they Jiad found some Jlsquii^aux tents at o/i<q pf 
 the Falls, on the opposite side of the nvej", the peopje ii^ 
 whic}i were asleep ; that tjiey afterwards spoke to them 
 ^across the river, and told them of the arrival of some whitj^ 
 people from a very distant part, and that they had brought 
 some useful articles, to give the Esquimaux in tokep of 
 peace. Junius said that they appeared considerably alarniec( 
 at the information ; but that one of the party approached 
 the shore on the side where Junius and Augustus were, and 
 spake with the latter, who was able to cQp verse with them 
 although there was some difficulty in making each other 
 understand. After a few hours rest, Junius set out again, 
 to join Augustus, taking suffiqient provisions with him, the 
 want of which had given occasion to his present ret\irft. He 
 was now accompanied by \\ie seaman Hepburn, who \yas to 
 follow at a short distance. 
 
TO THE POX.AR ;5^A. 477 
 
 Soon after they were mortified fcy the appe^auce of t^ 
 Indians with Mr. Went^el, who had in vain endeavoured to 
 restrain them from following. The only reason assigned by 
 Akaitcho for his conduct was, that he wished for a re-as- 
 sura^ce of the captain's promise to es,tablisl^ peace between 
 his nation at^d the Esquimaux. lie ag^in enforced the 
 necessity of their remaining behind, u;[;ktil the party l;md ob- 
 tained the confidence and good will o^f their enemies. After 
 supper. Dr. Richardson ascepded a lo^ty hill about three 
 miles from the encampment, and obtained ^the first yieyt^ oi' 
 the sea ; it appeared to be covered >v7th ice. A large pro- 
 montory, and its lofty mountains, pfoved to be the land tbjey 
 had seen in the forenoon, and which ha(J led them to ^el^v* 
 the sea was still far distant. He §a\y the sun .set ^ few 
 minutes before midnight from the same eleyated sitiii|tipu. 
 Tt did not ris,e during the half hour he r^em^jn^d there, i?ut 
 before he reached the encampment its ray;^ gilded the top;? 
 pf the hills. 
 
 On the 15th of June they proceeded on their Journpv, 
 jrej^tr^ining with difficulty the Indians from accompanying 
 them, notwithstanding Captain Franklin threatened that he 
 ^ould withhold the reward he had promised them if they 
 did not wait till he had prepared the Esquimaux to repeirp 
 them. At fipon they perceiyed Hepburn lying on tl^e left 
 bank of the river, and landed immediately to receive his in- 
 forpiation. As he represented the water to be shoal th^ 
 whole way to the rapid (below which the^Esqujmai|7^ were) 
 the shore party were directed to continjie their ^arch to ^i 
 9andy bay at the head of the fall, and there wait the arrivi^l 
 of the canoe^. Some of the men incautiously appeared j^ist 
 as Augustus wi^s speaking to one of the Esquimaux, who 
 had again approached in his canoe, and was almost per- 
 suaded to land. The unfortunate appearance of so many peo- 
 ple at tl\is instant, revived his fears, and he crossed over to 
 the ^-^stern ba(nk of the river and fled with the whole of th<^ 
 party. They learned from Augustus that this pafly con- 
 
4t6 franklin's JOURNt^.Y 
 
 sisdng of four men and as many women, Imd manifested a 
 friendly disposition. Two of the former were very tall. The 
 man who first came to speak to him, inquired the number of 
 canoes that he had with them, expressed himself to be not 
 displeased at their arrival, and desired him to caution the 
 party not to attempt running the rapid, but to make the port- 
 age on the west side of the river. Notwithstanding this fa- 
 vourable appearance, the Esquimaux soon after fled ; bui it 
 was hoped that ihey would return after their first alarm had 
 subsided; and therefore Augustus and Junius were sent 
 across the river to look for the runaways, but their searc-h 
 was entirely fruitless. They afterwards put a few pieces of 
 iron and trinkets in their canoes, which were lying on the 
 beach. Several human skulls, which bore the marks of vio- 
 lence, and many bones were strewed about the ground near 
 the encampment, and as the spot exactly answers the des- 
 cription given by Mr. Hearne, where the Chipewyans who 
 accompanied him had perpetrated the dreadful massacre on 
 the Esquimaux, no doubt was made of this being the place . 
 notwithstanding the difference in its position as to latitude 
 and longitude given by him. 
 
 On the morning of the 16th three men were sent up the 
 river to search for dried wood to make floats for the nets. 
 Adam the interpreter was also dispatched with a Canadian, 
 to inform Akaitcho of the flight of the Esquimaux. Adam 
 soon returned in the utmost consternation, and said that a 
 party of Esquimaux were pursuing the men who had been 
 sent to collect floats. They had come quite unawares 
 upon the Esquimaux party, which cimsisted of six men, 
 with their women and children, who were travelling to- 
 wards the rapid with a considerable number of dogs carry- 
 ing their baggage. The women hid themselves on the fisst 
 alarm, but the men advanced, and stopping at some distance 
 from the party, began to dance in a circle, tossing up their 
 Uanda in the air, and accompanying: their motions with much 
 shouting, to signify, as we supposed, (heir desire of peace. 
 
TO THF. POLAR FF.A. 479 
 
 Neither party was willing to approach the other ; and at 
 length the Esquimaux retired to the hill, from whence 
 they had descended when first seen. They proceeded in the 
 hope of gaining an interview with them, and on the summit 
 of the hill they found, lying behind a stone, an old man 
 who was too infirm to effect his escape with the rest. He 
 was much terrified when Augustus advanced, and probably 
 expected immediate death ; but that the fatal blow might 
 not be unrevenged, he seized his spear, and made a thrust 
 with it at his supposed enemy. Augustus, however, easily 
 repressed the feeble effort, and soon calmed his fears by 
 presenting him with some pieces of iron, and assuring him of 
 his friendly intentions. Dr. Richardson and Capt. Franklin 
 then joined them, and after receiving some presents, the 
 old man was quite composed, and became communicative. 
 His dialect differed from that used by Augustus, but they 
 understood each other tolerably well. 
 
 The old man said that the party who accompanied him, 
 amounted to seven persons with their families. He had 
 heard, he said, of white men having been seen by some of 
 his nation, a considerable distance to the eastward. In 
 reply to enquiries addressed to him, he said that drift wood 
 would be found along the coast, that fish were plentiful, that 
 seals were abundant ; and that it was usual with his nation at 
 this season to come into these parts to procure salmon, which 
 were now abundant about the Bloody Fall. He said his 
 name was White Fox and that his tribe called themselves the 
 Deer Horn Esquimaux. He said that at the conclusion of 
 the time for catching salmon they removed to the westward, 
 where they built themselves snow-houses on the borders of a 
 river. After this White Fox proposed to go to his store ; 
 but appearing too infirm to walk without the help of sticks, 
 Augustus assisted him ; and when arrived there he presented 
 some dried meat to each of the party, which being considered 
 among these people as an offer of peace, was eaten by them 
 although it was far from being sweet. Being given to un- 
 
480 franklin's journev 
 
 dcTstahtl that the party wanted provisions, he said that they 
 had a good supply of them, which he would shew them. 
 
 Captain Franklin now communicated to him that they 
 wefrie abcompanied by some Copper Indians, who were very 
 desirous to make peace with his nation, and that they had 
 requested him to prevail lipon the Esquimaux to receive 
 them in a friendly manner ; to which he replied, " He should 
 rejoice to^ee an end put to the hrostility that existed between 
 the nations, and tberefbrfe would most gladly welcome 
 them." Having dispatched Adam to inform Akaitcho of this 
 circumstance, they left White Fox, in the hope that his party 
 wotifd rejoin him; brut as th6^^ hfeid' doubts whether the 
 youngWen would venttire upon coining to the tents, on the 
 old man's bare representation, Augustiistind Junius were 
 sent* ba6ft^ in the evening, to remain witfr him until they 
 cam^e', that the}' might fnVly detail tbeir intentions'. 
 
 White Fox was bent with age, but appeared to be about 
 five'(eefti^ii inches high. His hands and feet were small in 
 pro^rtidn to his height. Whenever he received a presetifj- 
 he placed each article first on his right shoulder, and then oft- 
 his left; and when he wished to express still higher s^tisfac-*' 
 lion* he rubbed it over his head. He held hatchets," aM 
 oih^f ybii' ' instrmAenis, in the higbest esteem. On seeing^ 
 his c<)fttitenance in a glass for the first- time, be exclaimied,' 
 "I shall never kill deer more," and immediately put thi^ 
 mirror down. The tribe to which he belongs repair to the 
 sea in-fe|)ringi and kiUse^ls; as the s^as6n advances they hunt 
 deer and musk oxen at some distance from the coast. Their 
 weapon is the bow and arrow, and they get sufficiently nigh 
 the deer, eitlier by crawling, or by leading these anirhals by 
 ranges of turf towards a*Spot where the archer conceals him- 
 self. Their bows ar6 formed of three pieces of fir, the ceii'- 
 tre piece alone bent, the other tw6 lying in the same straight 
 line with the bowstring ; the pieces are neatly tied together 
 with sinewi Their canoes are' similar to those in Hudson's 
 Straights, but smaller. They get fish constantly in the ti vere*,' 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 481 
 
 and in the sea as soon as the ice breaks up. This tribe do 
 not make use of nets, but are tolerably successful with the 
 book and line. Their cooking utensils are made of pot- 
 stone, and they form very neat dishes of fir, the sides being 
 made of thin deal bent into an oval form, secured at the 
 ends by sewing, and fitted so nicely to the bottom as to be 
 perfectly water-tight. They have also large spoons made 
 of the horns of the musk oxen. 
 
 Akaitcho arrived in the evening, and it appeared that he 
 bad seen the Esquimaux the day before, and sought to hold 
 correspondence with them ; but that they appeared fearful to 
 advance. Akaitcho followed them at a distance, and sought 
 so to surround them that they would be reduced to the ne- 
 cessity of meeting either with the English party, or with the 
 Indians. He had obtained an interview with White Fox, 
 who at first manifested a hostile spirit, but was soon pacified 
 on finding that the Indians were friendly disposed. 
 
 As Junius and Augustus did not return, Mr. Hood and a 
 party of men were sent in search of them. They found that 
 White Fox's wife had been with him, who said that all the 
 Esquimaux had gone to a distance, where some of their peo- 
 ple were fishing. In the course of the day, a party of Es- 
 quimaux were observed at a short distance, but as soon as they 
 saw Captain Franklin's people they fled with precipitation. On 
 the other hand such fearful apprehensions took hold of Akait- 
 cho and his people that they resolved to proceed no farther. 
 They expressed their fears lest their reteat should be cut 
 off; and although Captain Franklin endeavoured to prevail 
 on them to continue, by offers of considerable advantage, 
 nothing could overcome their fears ; he then requested them 
 to wait at the Copper Mountains for Mr. Wentzel and the 
 men who were to return, on the party arriving at the sea, 
 which after much persuasion they agreed to do, and then 
 departed after promising to provide a deposit of provisions at 
 Fort 'Enterprise, for the use of the party on their return. 
 
 Pierre St. Germain and Jean Baptiste Adam, two of the 
 P. V. 21. Q a a 
 
482 franklin's journey 
 
 interpreters, were also impressed with such fearful appre- 
 hensions for their safety, that they solicited to be discharged ; 
 and the former declared that he had only engaged to accom- 
 pany the party with the Indians, and that therefore when 
 they returned, he was also to be discharged. As, however, 
 a written engagement hatl been made with St. Germain, he 
 wasquickly silenced on beingshewn the written contractwhich 
 he had entered into. The assistance which St. Germain and 
 Baptiste Adam also were of in procuring provisions by hunt- 
 ing were so important that their return would have exposed 
 the party to many difficulties. Notwithstanding these ties, 
 Captain Franklin was informed that they meditated the tak- 
 ing the first opportunity of quitting the party, and it was ne- 
 cessary to watch their conduct until the Indians departed, 
 as they were in too much dread of the Esquimaux to quit 
 alone. ' 
 
 On the I8th of July, Captain Franklin and bis comparti- 
 ons embarked on the Copper-mine River, and proceeded to 
 the sea, which they reached in a few hours. The Canadian 
 voyagers complained much of the cold, but they were amused 
 with their first view of the sea, and particularly with the 
 sight of the seals that were swimming about near the entrance 
 of the river ; but these sensations gave place to despondency 
 before the evening had elapsed. They were terrified at the 
 idea of a voyage through an icy sea in bark canoes. They 
 speculated on the length of the journey, the roughness of 
 the waves, the uncertainty of provisions, the exposure to cold 
 where they could expect no fuel, and the prospect of having 
 to traverse the barren grounds to get to some establishment. 
 The two interpreters expressed their apprehensions with the 
 least disguise, and again urgently applied to be discharged ; 
 but only one of the Canadians made a similar request. Judg- 
 ing that the constant occupation of their time as soon as they 
 were enabled to commence the voyage would prevent them 
 from conjuring up so many causes of fear, and that familia- 
 rity with the scenes on the coast, would in a short time eua- 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 
 
 We them to give scope to their natural cheerfulness, the of- 
 ficers endeavoured to ridicule their fears, and happily suc- 
 ceeded for the present. The manner in which Hepburn 
 viewed the element to which he had been so long accustomed, 
 contributed not a little to make them ashamed of their 
 fears. 
 
 On the morning of the 19th, Dr. Richardson, accompa- 
 nied by Augustus, paid another visit to White Fox, to see if- 
 he could obtain any additional information respecting the 
 country to the eastward ; but he was disappointed at finding, 
 that his affrighted family had not yet rejoined him, and the 
 old man could add nothing tu bis former communication. 
 Dr. Richardson remarked that he had a great dislike to men- 
 tioning the name of a river to the westward, and also of his 
 tribe. He attempted to persuade Augustus to remain with 
 him, and offered him one of his daughters for a wife. These 
 Esquimaux strike fire with two stones,^ catching the sparks 
 in the down of the catkins of a willow. 
 
 Mr. Wentzel and some others of the party being to return, 
 from this place. Captain Franklin made up a packet to be 
 conveyed by them io England. Those who were to remain 
 with him consisted of twenty persons, including officers. The 
 course which they would probably pursue, was drawn out 
 and laid before Mr. Wentzel, and he was requested to require^ 
 the Indians to provide a supply of dried provisions at Fort 
 Enterprise as early in the winter as they could ; that in case 
 the party were prevented by the severity of the weather from 
 returning by the Copper-mine River, and were compelled 
 to travel across the country, they might be sure of a sufti- 
 cient supply at Fort Enterprise. In case the Indians should 
 be in want of ammunition, he was desired to obtain a sup- 
 ply from Fort Providence or some other port, and to send 
 it to the Indians in order that there might be no occasion of 
 excuse on their part. Mr. Wentzel was also to leave a letter 
 at Fort Enterprise with information where the Indians wouhl 
 hunt in the months of September and October. He was also 
 
 Q d Q 2 
 
484 franklin's journey 
 
 furnished with a list of the stores that had been promised to 
 Akaitcho and his party as a remuneration for their services, 
 as well as with an official request to the North-west Com- 
 pany that these goods might be paid to them on their next 
 visit to Fort Providence, which they expected to make in 
 the latter part of November. 
 
 If Mr. Wentzel met the Hook, or any of his party, he 
 was instructed to assure them that he was provided with the 
 necessary documents to get them payment fot any meat they 
 should provide ; and to acquaint them, that Captain Frank- 
 lin fully relied on their fulfilling every part of the agreement 
 they had made. Whenever the Indians, whom he was to 
 join at the Copper Mountains, killed any animals on their 
 way to Fort Enterprise, he was requested to put in store what- 
 ever meat could be spared, placing conspicuous marks to 
 guide to them. When Mr. Wentzel's party had been sup- 
 plied with ammunition, the remaining stock consisted of one 
 thousand balls, and rather more than the requisite proportion 
 of powder. A bag of small shot was missing, and it was af- 
 terwards discovered that the Canadians had secreted^ and dis- 
 tributed it among themselves, in order that when provision 
 should become scarce, they might privately procure ducks 
 and geese, and avoid the necessity of sharing them with the 
 officers. The situation of the encampment was ascertained 
 to be latitude 67** 47' 50" north, longitude 115** 36' 49* west. 
 The travelling distance from Fort Enterprise to the north 
 of Copper-mine River, is about three hundred and thirty- 
 four miles. The canoes and baggage were dragged over 
 snow and ice for one hnndred and seventeen miles of this 
 distance. 
 
 On the 2l8t, the party embarked on the Arctic Sea, They 
 bad with them provision for only a fortnight's consumption, 
 with very doubtful prospects as to their future supplies. They 
 shortly after landed on an island which showed that it had 
 been visited by the Esquimaux. There was a quantity of 
 fishing implements, and also many skins of the seals, musk- 
 
TO THB POLAR SEA. 486 
 
 OX, and rein-deer. There were also various kinds of cook- 
 ing implements, and many other articles which appeared to 
 be manufactured with threat ingenuity, the uses of which 
 could not be understood. As they approached they found the 
 coast well covered with vegetation, and a considerable quan- 
 tity of drift wood was found upon the beach. They made a 
 run of nearly forty miles along the coast in an eastern direc- 
 tion, and were full of spirits at the progress they made. In 
 the evening they landed, and passed the night on shore. 
 
 On the 22nd, they again set forwards in their canoes, sail- 
 ing along the coast to the eastward, and making their way 
 through various detached pieces of ice, in which they found 
 themselves often exposed to dangers. According as the 
 wind blew over the ice or from the land, they found a great 
 difference in the temperature of the air. They noticed many 
 geese and ducks and a few deer. On the 23rd, the wind 
 having blown from the land during the night, the ice was 
 cleared away from the coast, and they again proceeded on 
 their voyage ; but the wind after a short time becoming ad- 
 verse, they were obliged to land, and taking the opportunity 
 of using their nets, they caught a few fish. On ascending a 
 cliff to take a view of the sea, the ice also appeared to have 
 been driven around them in all directions. On observation 
 their latitude was 67^ 42* north, and their longitude 112^ Sit 
 west. On the 24th they saw indications that some Escjui- 
 maux had recently been in that neighbourhood. 
 
 On the 25th they embarked at six o'clock in the morning 
 and paddled against a cold breeze, until the spreading of a 
 thick fog compelled them to land. The rocks here consisted 
 of a beautiful mixture of red and grey granite, traversed 
 from north to south by veins of red felspar, which were 
 crossed in various directions by smaller veins filled with the 
 same substance. At noon the wind coming from a favoura- 
 ble quarter, they were tempted to proceed, although the fog 
 was unabated. Just as they were endeavouring to double 
 a bold cape, the fog partially cleared away, and allowed an 
 
486 franklin's journey 
 
 imperfect view of a chain of islands on the outside, and of 
 much heavy ice which was pressing down. The coast near 
 them was so extremely steep and ruarged that no landing of 
 the cargoes could be effected, and they were preserved only 
 by some men jumping on the rocks, and thrusting the ice off 
 with poles. There was no alternative but to continue along 
 this dreary shore, seeking a channel between the different 
 masses of ice which had accutnulated at the various points. 
 In this operation both the canoes were in imminent danger 
 of being crushed by the ice, which was now tossed about by 
 the waves that the gale had excited. They effected a pas- 
 sage, however, and keeping close to the shore, landed at the 
 entrance of what they named Detention Harbour, having 
 come twenty-eight miles. An old Esquimaux encampment 
 was traced on this spot; and an ice chisel, a copper knife, 
 and a small iron knife, were found under the turf. 
 
 On the 26th they embarked at four o'clock in the morning 
 and attempted to force a passage, when the first canoe got 
 enclosed, and remained for some time in a very perilous si- 
 tuation ; the pieces of ice, crowded together by the action of 
 the current and wind, pressing strongly against its feeble 
 sides. A partial opening, however, occurring, they landed 
 without having sustained any serious injury. Two men were 
 then sent round the bay, and it was ascertained that instead 
 of having entered a narrow passage between an island and 
 the main, they were at the mouth of an harbour, having an is- 
 land at its entrance ; and that it was necessary to return by 
 the way they came, and get round a point to the northward. 
 This was, however, impracticable, the channel being blocked 
 up by drift ice ; and there was no prospect of release except 
 by a change of the wind. In the afternoon the weather 
 cleared up, and several men went hunting, but were unsuc- 
 cessful. 
 
 On the morning of the 27th, the ice remaining stationary, 
 they carried the canoes and cargoes about a mile and a half 
 across a point of land that formed the east side of the bay > 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 487 
 
 but the ice was not more favourable there than at the place 
 they had left. It consisted of small pieces closely packed 
 to^jether by the wind, extending along* the shore, but leaving 
 a clear passage beyond a chain of islands with which the whole 
 of this coast is girt. 
 
 As the ice continued in the snme state the following 
 day, several of the men were sent out to hunt ; and one of 
 them fired no less than four times at deer, but unfortunately 
 without success. It was satisfactory, however, to ascertain 
 that the country was not destitute of animals. They had the 
 mortification to discover that two of the bags of poramican, 
 ■which was their principal reliance, had become mouldy by 
 Avet. The beef too had been so badly cured, as to be scarce- 
 ly eatable, through their having been compelled, from haste, 
 to dry it by fire instead of the sun. It was not, however, 
 the quality of the provision that gave them uneasiness, but 
 its diminution, and the utter incapacity to obtain any addi- 
 tion. Seals were the only animals seen at this place, and 
 these they could never approach. There was a sharp frost 
 in the night, which formed a pretty thick crust of ire in a ket- 
 tle of water that stood in the tents; and for several nights 
 thin films of ice appeared on the salt water amongst the cakes 
 of stream ice. Notwithstanding this state of temperature, 
 they were tormented by swanns of musquitoes. 
 
 On the morning of the 29th the party attended divine ser- 
 vice. About noon the party embarked, having consumed all 
 the fuel within reach. The wind came off the land just as 
 the canoes had started, and they determined on attempting 
 to force a passage along the shore ; in which they succeeded, 
 after seven hours' labour and much hazard to the vessels. 
 The ice lay so close that the crews disembarked on it, and 
 effected a passage by bearing against the pieces with their 
 poles ; but in conducting the canoes through the narrowchan- 
 nels thus formed, the greatest care was requisite, to prevent 
 the sharp projecting points from breaking the bark. They 
 
488 FRANKLIN*S JOURNEY 
 
 fortunately received no material injury, theug:li they were 
 split in two places. 
 
 At the distance of three miles, they came to the entrance 
 of a deep bay, whose bottom was filled by a body of ice so 
 compact as to preclude the idea of a passage through it ; 
 whilst at the same time, the traverse across its mouth was 
 attended with much danger, from the approach of a large 
 field of ice, which was driving down before the wind. The 
 dread of detention, however, induced them to proceed, and in 
 an hour and a half they landed on the opposite shore, where 
 they halted to repair the canoes and to dine. 
 
 On the 30th they breakfasted on a small deer which St. 
 Germain had killed ; and sent men in pursuit of some others 
 in sight, but with which they did not come up. Re-embark- 
 ing, they passed a river without perceiving it. Their stock 
 of provision being now reduced to eight days' consumption, it 
 had become a matter of the first importance to obtain a sup- 
 ply ; and as they had learned from White Fox that the Es- 
 quimaux frequent the rivers at this season, Captain l^rank- 
 lin determined on seeking a communication with them here, 
 in the h<>pe of obtaining relief for their present wants, or 
 even shelter for the winter, if the season should prevent re- 
 turning either to the Hook's party, or Fort Enterprise ; and 
 he was the more induced to take this step at this time, as 
 several deer had been seen, and the river appeared good for 
 fishing. Augustus, Junius, and Hepburn, were therefore 
 furnished with necessary presents, and desired to go along 
 the bank of the river as far they could, on the following day, 
 in search of the natives, to obtain provision and leather, as 
 well as information respecting the coast. 
 
 Having dispatched Hepburn and the Esquimaux, others 
 of the party were employed in setting the nets. They met 
 however with but little success in fishing, as they caught only 
 one salmon and five small fish. The hunters, who had been 
 sent out to procure provision, returned the next day, bring- 
 ing in two small deer and a bear, and shortly after another 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 489 
 
 hunter brought in a deer. The party who had been sent to 
 look for the Esquimaux also returned, not having met with 
 any persons on their journey. 
 
 On the 1st of August the party proceeded down the inlet, 
 and afterwards running along the eastern shore, rounded a 
 point of land which they named Point WoUaston, and then 
 opened on an extensive sheet of water. Approaching a small 
 island, they entered a bay and pitched their tents on the 
 shore. Being con6ned the following day by the rising of a 
 strong gale of wind, the hunters were sent out, while some 
 of the officers walked to the top of some hills to take a view 
 of their situation, and to ascertain whether they were amid a 
 cluster of islands or near the continent, the broken appear- 
 ance of the land rendering the circumstance doubtful whe- 
 ther they were skirting the shores of the sea, or proceeding 
 through a large inlet. Under these impressions they often 
 landed and ascended the highest hills to ascertain their situ- 
 ation. After continuing their voyage until the 5th, they had 
 the mortification to find the inlet terminated in a small river; 
 and sailing back to the opposite shore, were until the 10th 
 of August before they again entered upon the open sea. In 
 the course of their progress through this inlet, Junius killed 
 a musk. ox, and others of the party killed two bears, and a 
 few lean deer. The bears were fat and in good condition, 
 and the Canadian voyagers, who had been disposed to com- 
 plain from the feur of a scantiness of food, were highly 
 pleased at feeding on the fat meat of the bear. 
 
 On the 11th they rounded a point which was named Point 
 £veritt, and then encountered a strong breeze and heavy 
 swell, which by causing the canoes to pitch very much, greatly 
 impeded their progress. Some deer being seen grazing 
 in a valley near the beach, they landed and sent St. Ger- 
 main and Adam in pursuit of them, who soon killed three, 
 which were very small and lean. Their appearance, how^ 
 ever, quite revived the spirits of the men, who had suspected 
 that the deer had retired to the woods. Resuming the 
 
 P. V. 21. R R R 
 
400 FRANKLIN'S JOUR'Nt'r 
 
 voyage after noon, they proceeded along the coast, which is 
 fringed by islands ; and at iive in the afternoon, entered 
 another bay, where they wereforsometiineinvolvedin difficul- 
 ties by the intricacy of the passages ; but having cleared them 
 in the afternoon, they encamped near the northern entrance 
 of the bay, at a spot which had recently been visited by a 
 small party of Esquimaux, as the remains of some eggs con- 
 taining young were lying beside some half>burnt wood. 
 There were also several piles of stones put up by them. 
 
 Embarking at four on the morning of the 12th, they pro- 
 ceeded against a fresh piercing north-east wind, which raised 
 the waves to a height that quite terrified some of the people, 
 accustomed only to the navigation of rivers and lakes. They 
 resolved, however, to persevere, feeling that the short sea- 
 son fc^ operations was hastening away ; but after rounding 
 Gape Croker the wind became so strong that they could pro- 
 ceed no farther, and encamped for the night. On the fol- 
 lowing day a paddle was found, which Augustus, on exami- 
 nation, declared to be made after the fashion of the White 
 Goose Esquimaux, a tribe with whom his countrymen had 
 had some trading communication. Some articles left by them 
 attracted attention; they found a winter sledge raised upon 
 four stones, with some snow-shovels, a small piece of whale-* 
 bone, an ice-chisel, a knife, and some beads. 
 
 Most of the head-lands they now visited shewed that the 
 Esquimaux had been upon them. On the 24th they saw 
 some geese an<l swans, and also several deer, but the coun- 
 try being open they easily escaped. In the evening, after the 
 tents were pitched, Mr. Back stated that the canoes were 
 materially damaged. On examination it appeared that fif- 
 teen timbers of one of the canoes were broken, and that the 
 others were so loose in the frame, that there was danger of 
 the bark separating if exposed to a heavy sea. Distressing 
 as were these circumstances, they gave less pain than the 
 discovery that the voyagers, who had hitherto displayed a 
 courage beyond expectation, How felt serious apprehensions 
 
TO THE J^OLAR SEA. 491 
 
 fortht?ir safety, which so possessed their miuds that they were 
 wot restrained even by the presence of their officers from ex- 
 pressing them. Their fears had been principally excited by 
 the interpreters, St. Germain and Adam, who from the out- 
 set had foreboded every calamity. 
 
 The strong breezes which now prevailed and other circum- 
 stances indicated that the winter was fast settini^ in, and se- 
 vere weather was to be expected. Destitute as the country- 
 was of fuel, and reduced as their stock of provision now was- 
 to about three days consumption, it became the duty of Cap- 
 tain Franklin to be careful for the safety of his people. 
 Though rein-deer were seen, they could not be easily ap- 
 proached on the level shores they were now coasting, besides 
 it was to be apprehended they would soon migrate to the 
 south. It was evident that the time spent in exploring the 
 sounds and inlets had precluded the hope of reaching Re- 
 pulse Bay, which at the outset of the voyage they had fondly, 
 cherished ; and it was equally obvious that as the distance 
 from any of the trading establishments would increase as they 
 proceeded, the hazardous traverse across the barren grounds,, 
 which they would have to make, if compelled to abandon 
 the canoes upon any part of the coast, would become greater. 
 
 On stating to the officers his sentiments on these points, 
 their opinions coincided with his own. All were convinced; 
 of the necessity of putting a speedy termination to their voy- 
 age, as a hope of meeting the Esquimaux and of their 
 procuring provision from them, could now scarcely be re- 
 tained ; but yet all were desirous of proceeding, until the 
 land should be seen trending again to the eastward. As it 
 was needful, however, at all events, to set a limit to their 
 voyage, it was determined to return in the course of four 
 days, unless they should meet the Esquimaux, and be ena- 
 bled to make some arrangement for passing the winter with 
 them. This communication was joyfully received by the men, 
 and it was hoped that the industry of the hunters being thus 
 excited, they should be able to add to their stock of provision. 
 
 U R R 2 
 
492 franklin's journey 
 
 On the 16th of August they paddled along the coast for 
 several uailes, until at length a thick fog compelled them to 
 land on a point of land to which they gave the name of Slate 
 Clay Point. At this place they found marks of its having 
 been visited by the Esquimaux, although none were now to 
 be seen. A human skull was also found set up on a conspi- 
 cuous part. Continuing their progress along the coast, they 
 passed a deep bay, and rounding a point of land which they 
 named Cape Flinders, proceeded northward, with an open 
 sea, quite clear of islands. This view of the great ex- 
 panse of waters excited great astonishment in the Canadian 
 voyagers, who had not before obtained an uninterrupted view 
 of the ocean. 
 
 They continued their course along the coast until evening, 
 when a change in the wind and a threatening thunder squall 
 caused them to encamp ; but the water was so shallow, that 
 the^ found some difficulty in approaching the shore. Large 
 pieces of drift wood evidenced that they had finally escaped 
 from the bays. Their tents were scarcely pitched before they 
 were assailed by a heavy squall and rain, which v?as suc- 
 ceeded by a violent gale from west-north-west, which thrice 
 overset the tents during the night. The wind blew with 
 equal violence on the following day, and the sea rolled furi- 
 ously upon the beach. The Canadians had now an oppor- 
 tunity of witnessing the effect of a storm upon the sea ; and 
 the sight increased their desire of quitting it. 
 
 The hunters were sent out, and saw many deer, but the 
 flatness of the country defeated their attempts to approach 
 them ; they brought, however, a few unfledged geese. As 
 there was no appearance of increasing their stock of provi- 
 sion, the alio wancie was limited to a handful of pemmican,and 
 a small portion of portable soup to each man per day. The 
 latitude was 68^ 18' N., longitude 110^ & W. 
 
 On August 18th the stormy weather and sea continuing, 
 there was no prospect of being able to embark. Dr. Rich- 
 ardson, Mr. Back, and Captain Franklin, therefore, set out 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 493 
 
 on foot to discover whether the land within a day's march in- 
 clined more to the east. They went from ten to twelve miles 
 along the coast, which continued flat, and kept the same di- 
 rection as the encampment. The most distant land had the 
 same bearing north-north-east, and appeared like two is- 
 lands, which was estimated to be six or seven miles off; the 
 shore on their side seemingly trended more to the east, so that 
 it is probable Point Turnagain, for so this spot was named, 
 forms the pitch of a low flat cape. 
 
 Augustus killed a deer in the afternoon, but the men were 
 not able to find it. The hunters found the burrows of a num- 
 ber of white foxes, and Hepburn killed one of those ani- 
 mals, which proved excellent eating, equal to the young 
 geese, with which it was boiled, and far superior to the lean 
 deer upon the coast. Large flocks of geese passed over the 
 tents, flying to the southward. The lowest temperature to- 
 day was 38^. 
 
 Though Point Turnagain is only six degrees and a half to 
 the east of the mouth of the Copper-mine River, they sailed, 
 in tracing the deeply indented coast, five hundred and fifty- 
 five geographic miles, which is little less than the direct dis- 
 tance between the Copper- mine River and Repulse Bay. 
 Having extended his voyage to the utmost limits which the 
 season and circumstances would admit. Captain Franklin 
 now contemplated his return. To have attempted to proceed 
 would have been to have put the lives of the people under 
 his charge to the greatest hazard. With scarcely any provi- 
 sions, and failing of all intercourse with the Esquimaux, it 
 would have been an unjustifiable circumstance to delay any 
 longer their return. It therefore became a matter of deep 
 importance to determine by what rout they should proceed. 
 His original intention had been to return by the Copper- 
 mine River, and in pursuance of arrangements with the Hook 
 to travel to Slave Lake, through the line of woods extending 
 thither by the Great Bear and Martin Lakes; but the scanty 
 stock of their provision and the length of the voyage rendered 
 
404 franklin's journey 
 
 it necessary to make for a nearer place. They had found 
 that the country, in the direction of the Copper-mine River, 
 would not supply their wants, and this it seemed probable 
 would now be still more the case at this advanced season ; and 
 they had to expect the frequent recurrence of gales, which 
 would cause great detention, if not danger, in proceeding 
 along that very rocky part of the coast. He determined, 
 therefore, to make at once for Arctic Sound, where they 
 had found the animals more numerous than atanyotherplace; 
 and entering Hood's River, to advance up that stream as 
 far as it was navii^able, and then to construct small canoes 
 out of the materials of the larger ones, which could be car- 
 ried in crossing the barren grounds to Fort Enterprise. They 
 remained at their encampment untM the 22nd, and during 
 their slay, Junius, Belanger, and Michel were sent to search 
 for a deer which had been killed. 
 
 Juniusreturnedintheevening,bringingpartof themeatjbut 
 owing to the thickness of the weather, his companions parted 
 from him and did not make their appearance. Divine ser- 
 vice was read. On the 20th they were presented with the 
 most chilling prospect, the small pools of water being fro- 
 zen over, the ground covered with snow, and the thermome- 
 ter at the freezing point at mid-day. Flights of ijeese were 
 passing to the southward. The wind, however, was mode- 
 rate, having changed to the eastward. Considerable anxi- 
 ety now prevailing respecting Belanger and Michel, others 
 were sent out to look for them. The search was successful, 
 and they all returned in the evening. The stragglers were 
 much fatigued, and had suffered severely from the cold, 
 one of them having his thighs frozen, and what under pre- 
 sent circumstances was most grievous, they had thrown away 
 all the meat. The wind during the night returned to the 
 north-west quarter, blew more violently than ever, and raised 
 a very turbulent sea, the snow remained on the ground, and 
 the small pools were frozen. The hunters were sent out, 
 but they returned after a fatiguing day*s march without 
 
TO THE POL-VR SE4. 495 
 
 having seen any animals, anil they made a scanty meal off a 
 handful of pemmican, after which only half a bag remained. 
 Cheered by the prospect of retuminir, the men shewed the 
 utmost alacrity on embarking; and, paddling with unusual 
 vigour, they crossed Riley's and Walker's Bays, a distance 
 of twenty miles, before noon, when they landed on Slate- 
 Clay Point, as the wind had freshened too much to permit 
 them to continue the voyage. The whole party went to hunt, 
 but returned without success in the evening, drenched with 
 the heavy rain which commenced soon after they had set out. 
 Several deer were seen, but could not be approached in 
 this naked country; and as their stock of pemmican did not 
 admit of serving out two meals, they went dinnerless to bed. 
 It is a curious coincidence, that this Expedition left Point 
 Turnagain on August 22nd, on the same dny that Captain 
 Parry sailed out of Repulse Bay. The parties were then 
 distant from each other 539 miles. 
 
 A severe frost caused them to pass a comfortless night on 
 the 23rd, and in the afternoon of that day they launched out 
 to make a traverse of fifteen miles across Melville Sound, 
 before a strong wind and heavy sea. The privation of food 
 under which the voyagers were then labouring absorbed 
 every other terror, otherwise the most powerful persuasion 
 could not have induced them to attempt such a traverse. It 
 was with the utni(»st difficulty that the canoes were kept from 
 turning their broadsides to the waves, though they sometimes 
 steered with all the paddles. One of them narrowly escaj)ed 
 being overset by this accident, which occurred in a raid-chan- 
 nel, where the waves were so high that the mast-head of one 
 canoe was often hid from the other, though it was sailing 
 within hail. 
 
 On the 24th they crossed the entrance of the bay, which 
 had before taken them so many days in sailing up, and landed 
 on an island near the opposite shore. Some deer being seen 
 on the beach, the hunters went in pursuit of them, and suc- 
 ceeded in killing three females, which enabled them to save 
 
496 franklin's journey 
 
 their last remaining meal of pemmican. They saw also some 
 fresh tracks of musk-oxen on the banks of a small stream 
 which flowed into a lake in the centre of the island. These 
 animals must have crossed a channel at least three miles 
 wide, to reach the nearest of these islands. On the 25th 
 the hunters killed two deer, which relieved them from ap- 
 prehension of immediate want of food. From the deer assem- 
 bling at this time in numbers on the islands nearest to the 
 coast, it was conjectured that they were about to retire to 
 the main shore. Those they saw were generally females with 
 their young, and all of them very lean. 
 
 Leaving this island they entered Hood's River, which 
 they ascended as high as the first rapid and encamped. Here 
 terminated their voyage on the Arctic Sea, during which 
 they had gone over six hundred and fifty geographical miles. 
 The Canadian voyagers could not restrain their joy at having 
 turned their backs on the sea, and passed the evening in 
 talking over their past adventures with much humour and no 
 little exaggeration. The consideration that the most painful, 
 and certainly the most hazardous part of the journey, was yet 
 to come, did not depress their spirits at all. It is due to 
 their character to niention that they displayed much courage 
 in encountering the dangers of the sea, magnified to them 
 by their novelty. 
 
 On leaving their encampment on the 26tn of August, an 
 assortment of iron materials, beads, looking-glasses, and 
 other articles, were put up in a conspicuous situation for the 
 Esquimaux, and the English Union was planted on the lof- 
 tiest sand-hill, where it might be seen by any ships passing 
 in the offing. Here also was deposited, in a tin box, a 
 letter containing an outline of the proceedings, the latitude 
 and longitude of the principal places, and the course they 
 intended to pursue towards Slave Lake. Embarking at 
 eight in the morning, they proceeded up the river which is 
 full of sandy shoals, but sufficiently deep for canoes in the 
 channels. It ia from one hundred to two hundred yards 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 497 
 
 wide, and bounded by high and steep banks of clay. Bear 
 and deer tracks had been numerous on the banks of the 
 river when they were here before, but not a single recent 
 one was to be seen at this time. Credit, however, killed a 
 small deer at some distance inland, which, with the addition 
 of berries, furnished a delightful repast The weather was 
 remarkably fine, and the temperature so mild, that the mus- 
 quitoes again made their appearance, but not in any great 
 numbers. The next morning the net furnished ten white 
 fish and trout. Having made a further deposit of iron work, 
 for the Esquimaux, they pursued their journey up the river, 
 but the shoals and rapids in this part were so frequent, that 
 they walked along the banks the whole day, and the crews 
 laboured hard in carrying the canoes, when lightened, over 
 the shoals or dragging them up the rapids. The walls of 
 a chasm through which the river flowed were two hundred feet 
 high, quite perpendicular, and in some places few yards apart. 
 The river precipitates itself into it over a rock, forming two 
 magnificent and picturesque falls close to each other. The 
 upper fall is about sixty feet high, and the lower one at 
 least one hundred ; but perhaps considerably more, for the 
 narrowness of the chasm into which it fell prevented them 
 from seeing its bottom, and they could merely discern the 
 top of the spray far beneath their feet. The lower fall is 
 divided into two, by an insulated column of rock which rises 
 about forty feet above it. The whole descent of the river at 
 this place was about two hundred and fifty feet. Captain 
 Franklin named these magnificent cascades " Wilberforce 
 jPalls," as a tribute of respect for that distinguished philan- 
 thropist and christian. The river being surveyed from the 
 summit of a hill, above these fails, appeared so rapid and 
 shallow, that it seemed useless to attempt proceeding any 
 fartner in the large canoes, he therefore determined on con- 
 structing out of their materials two smaller ones of sufficient 
 size to contain three persons, for the purpose of crossing any 
 river that might obstruct their progress. This operation was 
 P, V. 21. S s s 
 
4^)8 franklin's journey 
 
 accordingly commenced, and by the 31st both the canoes 
 being finished, they set out on the following day. 
 
 The leather wiiich bad been preserved for making shoes 
 was equally divided among the men, two pair of flannel 
 socks were given to each person, and such articles of warm 
 clothing as remained, were issued to those who most re- 
 quired them. They were also furnished with one of the 
 officers' tents. This being done. Captain Franklin commu- 
 nicated to the men his intention of proceeding in as direct a 
 course as possible to a part of Point Lake, which was only 
 distant one hundred and forty-nine miles in a straight line. 
 The people received the communication cheerfully, consi- 
 dered the journey to be short, and were in high spirits. The 
 stores, books, &c. which were not absolutely necessary to be 
 carried, w^re left behind, in order that the rnen^s burdens 
 might be as light as possible. 
 
 The next morning was warm, and very fine. Every on& 
 was on the alert at an early hour, being anxious to cum' 
 mence the journey. The luggage consisted of ammunition, 
 nets, hathets, ice chisels, astronomical instruments, clothing,' 
 blankets, three kettles, and two canoes, which were each 
 carried by one man. The officers carried such a portion of 
 their own things as their strength would permit; the weight 
 carried by each man was about ninety pounds, and with this 
 they advanced at the rate of about a mile an hour, including 
 rests. In the evening the hunters killed a lean cow, out of 
 si large drove of musk-oxen ; but the men were too much 
 lad'en to carry more than a small portion of its flesh. The 
 alluvial soil, which towards the mouth of the river was 
 covered with grass and willows, was now more barren and 
 hilly, so that they could but just collect sufficient brush- 
 wood to cook their suppers. About midnight their tent was 
 blown down by a squall, and they were completely drenched 
 with rain before it could be re-pitched. 
 
 On the morning of the 1st of September, a fall of snow 
 took place ; the cunoes became a caubC of delay, from tlie 
 
TO THE POLAR SEAv- 
 
 difficulty of carrying them in a high wind, and they sus- 
 tained much damage through the fall of those who had charge 
 of them. At the end of eleven miles they encamped, and 
 sent for a musk-ox and a deer which St. Germain and Au- 
 gustus had killed. The day was extremely cold, the ther* 
 mometer varying between 34* and 36". In the afternoon a 
 heavy fall of snow took place, on the wind changing froi» 
 north-west to south-west. They found no wood at the en- 
 campment, but made a fire of moss to cook tlie supper and^ 
 crept under their blankets for warmth. 
 
 Having ascertained from the summit of the highest hill 
 near the tents, that the river continued to preserve a west 
 course ; and fearing that by pursuing it further they might 
 lose much time, and unnecessarily walk over a great deal 
 of ground, Capt. Franklin determined on q-uitting its banks' 
 the next day, and making as directly as they could for Point 
 Lake. They accordingly followed the river on the 3d, only 
 to the place where a musk-ox had been killed, and after 
 the meat was procured, crossed the river in the two canoes* 
 lashed together. 
 
 Having walked twelve miles and a half, on the 4th, they^ 
 encamped at seven in the afternoon, and distributed their- 
 last piece of pemmican, and a little arrow-root for supper^: 
 which afforded but a scanty meal. This evening was warm,'- 
 but dark clouds overspread the sky. The men now began to 
 find their burdens very oppressive, and were much fatigued 
 by this day's march, but did not complain. One of them was 
 lame from an inflammation in the knee. Heavy rain com- 
 menced at midnight, and continued without intermission 
 until five in the morning, when it was succeeded by snow, on 
 the wind changing to north-west, which soon increased to a 
 violent gale. As they had nothing to eat, and were desti- 
 tute of the means of making a fire, they remained in bed all 
 the day ; but the covering of the blankets was insufficient to 
 prevent feeling the severity of the frost, and suffering incon- 
 
 S s s2 
 
600 franklin's journey 
 
 venience from the drifting of the snow into the tents. There 
 was no abatement of the storm next day ; the tents were 
 completely frozen, and the snow had drifted around them to 
 a depth of three feet, and even in the inside there was a 
 covering of several inches on the blankets. 
 
 On the morning of the 7th, just as they were to com- 
 mence their march, Capt. Franklin was seized with a faint- 
 ing fit, in consequence of exhaustion and sudden exposure to 
 the wind ; after eating a morsel of portable soup, he re- 
 covered so far as to be able to move on. Those who carried 
 the canoes were repeatedly blown down by the violence of 
 the wind, and they often fell, from making an insecure step 
 on a slippery slone ; on one of these occasions, the largest 
 canoe was so much broken as to be rendered totally unser- 
 viceable. This was a serious disaster, as the remaining 
 canoe having through mistake been made too small, it wa» 
 doubtful whether it would be sufficient to carry them across 
 a river. As the accident could not be remedied, they turned 
 it to the best account, by making a fire of the bark and 
 timbers of the broken vessel, and cooked the remainder of 
 the portable soup and arrow-root. This was a scanty meal 
 after three days' fasting, but it served to allay the pangs of 
 hunger and enabled them to proceed at a quicker pace than 
 before. The depth of the snow caused them to march in 
 Indian file, that is in each other's steps; the voyagers taking 
 it in turn to lead the party. 
 
 A consideiable quantity of tripe de roche was gathered, 
 and with half a partridge each, (which they shot in the course 
 of the day,) furnished a slender supper, which they cooked 
 with a few willows, dug up from beneath the snow. They 
 j)assed a cojnfortless night in their damp clothes, but took 
 the precaution of sleeping upon their socks and shoes to pre- 
 vent them from freezing. This plan was afterwards adopted 
 throughout the journey. 
 
 At half-past five in the morning they procee<led ; and after 
 
TO THE fOLAR SEA. 601 
 
 ^valking about two miles, came to Cracroft's Rivetj flowing; 
 to tlie westward, with a very rapid current over a rocky 
 channel. They had much difliculty in crossing this, the canoe 
 beinj^ useless, not only from the bottom of the channel being 
 obstructed by large stones, but also from its requiring gum- 
 ming, an operation which, owing to the want of wood and 
 the frost, they were unable to perform. However, after 
 following the course of the river some distance, they effected 
 a passage by means of a range of large rocks that crossed a 
 rapid. As the current was strong, and many of the rocks 
 were covered with water to the depth of two or three feet, 
 the men were exposed to much danger in carrying their 
 heavy burdens across, and several of them actually slipped 
 into the stream, but were immediately rescued by the others. 
 Their only meal to-day consisted of a partridge each (which 
 the hunters shot,) mixed with tripe de roche. This repast, 
 although scanty for men with appetites such as their daily 
 fatigue created, proved a cheerful one, and was received 
 with thankfulness. Most of the men had to sleep in the open 
 air, in consequence of the absence of Credit, who carried 
 their tent ; but they fortunately found an unusual quantity 
 of roots to make a fire, which prevented their suffering much 
 from the cold, though the thermometer was at 17®. 
 
 They started at six on the 9th, and at the end of two 
 miles regained the hunters, who were halting on the borders 
 of a lake amidst a clump of stunted willows. This lake 
 stretched to the westward as far as they could see, and its 
 waters were discharged by a rapid stream one hundred and 
 fifty yards wide. Being entirely ignorant where ihey might 
 be led by pursuing the course of the lake, and dreading the 
 idea of going a mile unnecessarily out of the way, they de- 
 termined on crossing the river if possible ; and the canoe 
 was gummed for the purpose, the willow furnishing them with 
 lire. Junius, who had been sent to seek for the best crossing 
 place, arrived in the afternoon and said that he had seen a 
 large herd of musk-oxen on the banks of Cracrott's River, 
 
502 franklin's journky 
 
 and had wounded one of them, but it escapted. He brought 
 about four pounds of meat, the remains of a deer that had 
 been devoured by the wolves. The poor fellow was much 
 fatigued, having walked throughout the night, but as the 
 weather was particularly favourable for crossing the river, 
 they could not allow him to rest. After he had taken some 
 refreshment they proceeded to the river. The canoe being 
 put into the water was found extremely ticklish, but it was 
 managed with much dexterity by St Germain, Adam, and 
 Peltier, who ferried over one passenger at a time, causing 
 him to lie flat on its bottom, by no means a pleasant position, 
 owing to its leakiness, but there was no alternative. The 
 transport of the whole party was effected by five o'clock, and 
 walking about two miles further they encamped, having come 
 five miles and three quarters on a south-west course. Two 
 young alpine hares were shot by St. Germain, which, with 
 the small piece of meat brought in by Junius, furnished the 
 supper of the whole party. 
 
 On the 10th they had a cold north wind with foggy at- 
 mosphere. The ground they passed over was hilly, and 
 more deeply covered with snow. In gathering tripe de roche 
 the cold was so benumbing that they collected scarcely suffi- 
 cient for a scanty meal. They saw this day the track of a 
 man, and also several tracks of deer on the snow. About 
 noon the weather cleared up a little, and to their great joy, 
 they saw a herd of musk-oxen grazing in a valley below. 
 The party instantly halted, and the best hunters were sent 
 out ; they approached the animals with the utmost cautian, 
 no less than two hours being consumed before they got with- 
 in gun-shot. One of the largest cows fell ; another was 
 wounded, but escaped. This success infused spirit into the 
 starving party. To skin and cut up the animal were the 
 work of a few minutes. The contents of its stomach were de- 
 voured upon the spot, and the raw intestines, which were 
 next attacked, were pronounced by the most delicate to be 
 excellent. A few willows, whose tops were peeping through 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 503 
 
 the snow at the bottom of the valley, were quickly grubbed, 
 the tents pitched, and supper cooked, and devoured with 
 avidity. This was the sixth day since they had had a good 
 meal ; the tripe deroche, even where they got enough, only 
 serving to allay the pangs of hunger for a short time. After 
 supper, two of the hunters went in pursuit of the herd, but 
 could not get near them. 
 
 The gale had not diminished on the 12th, and as they 
 were fearful of its continuance for some time, they deter- 
 mined on going forward ; their only doubt regarded the pre- 
 servation of the canoe, bnt the men promised to pay particu- 
 lar attention to it, and the most careful persons were ap- 
 pointed to take it in charge. The snow was two feet deep 
 and the ground much broken, which rendered the march ex- 
 tremely painful. The whole party complained more of faint- 
 ness and weakness than they had ever done before ; their 
 strength seemed to have been impaired by the recent supply 
 of animal food. In the afternoon the wind abated, and the 
 snow ceased ; cheered with the change, they proceeded for- 
 ward at a quicker pace, and encamped at six in the after- 
 noon, having come eleven miles. Supper consumed the last 
 of the meat. 
 
 On the 18 th they came to the boraers of a large lake. 
 They coasted along it to the westward in hopes of finding a 
 crx)ssing place, and after a journey of only six miles encamped 
 for the evening. They had only a single partridge, upon 
 which and tripe de rochethe party supped. This evening 
 they were extremely distressed, at discovering that their 
 companions had thrown away three of the fishing-nets, and 
 burnt the floats. Being thus deprived of their principal re- 
 source, that of fishing, and the men evidently getting weaker 
 every day, it became necessary to lighten their burdens of 
 every thing except ammunition, clothing, and the instruments 
 that were required to find their way. Captain Franklin, 
 therefore, issued directions to deposit at this encampment 
 the dipping needle, azimuth compass, magnet, a large ther- 
 
504 
 
 momcter, and a few books, having' torn out of these such 
 parts as were required to work the observations for latitude 
 and longitude. 
 
 On the 14th Credit having killed two deer, they halted 
 and prepared breakfast. After this, having selected a place 
 wliere the current was most smooth, the canoe was placed in 
 the water, and St. Germain, Solomon Belanger, and Cap-' 
 tain Franklin, embarked in order to cross. They went from 
 the shore very well, but in mid-channel the canoe became diffi- 
 cult to manage under her burden as tlje breeze was fresh. 
 The current drove them to the edge of a rapid, when Be- 
 langer unluckily applied his paddle to avert the apparent dan- 
 ger of being forced down it, and lost his balance. The ca- 
 noe was overset in consequence in the middle of the rapid. 
 They fortunately kept hold of it, until they touched a rock 
 where the water did not reach higher than their waists ; here 
 they kept footing, notwithstanding the strength of the cur- 
 rent, until the water was emptied out df the canoe. Belan- 
 ger then held the canoe steady whilst St. <Sermain placed 
 Captain Franklin in it, and afterwards embarked himself in 
 a very dextrous manner. It was impossible, however, to 
 embark Belanger, as the canoe would have been hurried 
 down the rapid, the moment he should have raised bis foot 
 from the rock on which he stood. They were, therefore, 
 compelled to leave him in his perilous situation. They had 
 not gone twenty yards before the canoe, striking on a sunken 
 rock, went down. The place being shallow, they were again 
 enabled to empty it, and tlie third attempt brought th«m to 
 the shore. In the mean time Belanger was suffering ex- 
 tremely, immersed to his middle in the centre of a rai)id, 
 the temperature of which was very little above the freezing 
 point, and the upj>er part of his body covered with wet 
 clothes, exposed in a temperature not much above zero, to 
 a strong breeze. He called piteously for relief, and St. 
 Germain on his return endeavoured to embark him, but in 
 vain. The canoe was hurried down the rapid, and when he 
 
TO THE POLAR SKA. 5()5 
 
 landed he was rendered by the cold incapable of furilier ex- 
 ertion, and Adam attempted to embark Belanger, but found 
 it was impossible. An attempt was next made to carry out 
 to him a line, made of the slings of the men^s loads. This 
 also failed, the current acting so strongly upon it, as to 
 prevent the canoe from steering, and it was finally broken 
 and carried down the stream. At length, when Belanger's 
 strength seemed almost exhausted, the canoe reached him 
 nvith a small cord belonging to one of the nets, and he was 
 dragged perfectly senseless through the rapid. By the di- 
 rection of Dr. Richardson, he was instantly stripped, and be- 
 ing rolled up in blankets, two men undressed themselves and 
 went to bed with him ; but it was some hours before he reco- 
 vered his warmth and sensations. As soon as Belanger was 
 placed in his bed, the officers sent over some blankets, and 
 a person to make a fire. Augustus brought the canoe over, 
 and in returning he was obliged to descend both the rapids, 
 before he could get across the stream ; which hazardous ser- 
 vice he performed with the greatest coolness and judgment. 
 By this accident Captain Franklin had the misfortune to 
 lose his port-folio, containing his journal from Fort Enter- 
 prise, together with all the astronomical and meteorological 
 observations made during the descent of the Copper-mine 
 River, and along the sea-coast. 
 
 On the 15th, the rest of the party were brought across, 
 and Belanger was so much recovered as to be able to proceed, 
 but they could not set out until noon, as the men had to pre- 
 pare substitutes for the slings which were lost. Soon after 
 leaving the encampment they discerned a herd of deer, and 
 after a long chase a fine male was killed by Perrault. The 
 party were now in good spirits at the recollection of having 
 crossed the rapid, and being in possession of provision for 
 the next day. Besides which, they took the precaution to 
 bring away the skin of the deer to eat when the meat should 
 foil. 
 
 On the lOthj the party again commenced their journey at 
 P. V. 22. T T T 
 
dOG franklin's jolrnky 
 
 seven o'clock in the morning. Aftfr having travelled for a 
 few hours they canoe to a spot where they observed branches 
 of willows visible above the snow, and they halted for the 
 purpose of providing sonoe refreshment. As they proceeded 
 they found the country extremely rugs^Fd, and their toil in 
 ascending and descending (he different ravines with which 
 the country was intersected was great and very fatiguing. 
 They met with some deer tracks, and also marks which had 
 been placed by Indians as direction points. On the l7th 
 they saw some deer, and found the track of a large herd 
 which the hunters said had passed the day before ; unfortu- 
 nately however they failed in killing either the deer they 
 saw, or of overtaking the herd whose foot-steps they had 
 traced. They were therefore compelled to put up with a 
 scanty meal upon some pieces of a singed hide, and some 
 tripe de roche. 
 
 On the 18th they came to another track of the rein-deer, 
 who had passed in such numbers as to produce a beaten road, 
 which they followed for a short time, until it deviated from 
 the course to Slave Lake so mueh as to render it necesary 
 to quit it. They crossed several small lakes, which were 
 now so frozen as to be capable of being crossed without the 
 least hazard. Their repast this evening consisted only of 
 the tripe de rocbe which they had gathered during their pro- 
 gress. A great fall of snow took place this evening, and the 
 whole party were become extremely faint, so that on the fol- 
 lowing day it was with difficulty that they got forwards on 
 their way'. Notwithstanding all their difficulties, however, 
 they proceeded about ten miles on their journey. They were 
 obliged to gather Iceland moss this evening for their suppers, 
 not having met with any tripe de roche during the whole of 
 the day. It was however a substitute so unpleasant and bit- 
 ter, that most of the party partook of but a very small por- 
 tion. 
 
 The severity of the weather was now so piercing that it is 
 wonderful how they were enabled to endure it. At the 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 507 
 
 conclusion of. the day*s march the first operation was to thaw 
 their frozen shoei*, if a sufficient fire could be made, and dry 
 ones were put on ; each person then wrote his notes of tlie 
 daily occurrences, and evening prayers were read ; as soon 
 as supper was prepared it was eaten, generally in the dark, 
 and they went to bed, and kept up a conversation until their 
 blankets were thawed by the heat of their bodies. On many 
 nights they did not even go to bed in dry clothes, for when 
 the fire was insufficent to dry their shoes, they would not ven- 
 ture to pull them off, lest they should freeze so hard as to be 
 unfit to i>«it on in the morning, and, therefore, inconvenient 
 to carry. 
 
 By the 20th, travelling became so laborious that the party 
 proceeded with great difficulty. Mr. Hood, who had hitherto 
 followed the leading man to direct him in the line of march 
 which was to be pursued, became so weak that he could no 
 lunger sustain his post, and Dr. Richardson was obliged to 
 occupy it. By calculation they were so near to Point Lake 
 that they expected to be within view of it this evening ; and 
 this so inspirited the men that they proceeded on quickly. Af- 
 ter all their effi)rts however they were disappointed of see- 
 ing it; and this, with a sparing supply of tripe de roche, so 
 excited their murmurs that they threatened to give up all 
 further efforts and to (piit the i)arty; and this it is not im- 
 probable would have been the case if they had not been con- 
 vinced that the captain had the means of tracing the direct 
 road, which they themselves did not possess. 
 
 On the 21st they again set forward, although the men 
 were much dispirited and very weak. By taking an obser- 
 vation Captain Franklin found they were six miles too much 
 inclined to the southward of that part of Point Lake to which 
 they had purposed to journey, and accordingly they altered 
 their course, and fired some muskets to give the hunters an 
 intimation of the change of their route. Some tripe de roche, 
 and two partridges which they had killed, were all which 
 they were able to procure this day. The error which Cap- 
 
 Tt T 2 
 
a08 franklin's journey 
 
 tain Franklin had fallen into in calculating their journey to 
 Point Lake now excited increasing fears in the Canadians^ 
 as they supposed they had lost their way and were returning 
 back again. On the two following days their progress was 
 extremely slow, and they were arrested in their journey by 
 a large lake, along the banks of which they were compelled 
 to walk for a considerable distance. Joseph Peltier, one of 
 the Canadiiin voyagers^ who carried the canoe, having fallen 
 several times, by which the canoe was greatly injured, at last 
 refused to carry it, and it was given to Registe Vaillant, ano- 
 ther of the Canadians, who managed to carry it with greater 
 ease to himself, and they made for a time considerable speed. 
 Captain Franklin and Dr. Richardson, not going forwards 
 with the party, but following afterwards, accidentally passed 
 them ; and not finding a track to guide them, returned and 
 discovered their companions among some willows, where 
 thoy had found some pieces of skin and bones of a deer, on 
 which, added to some old shoes, they were making a meaK 
 They found Peltier and Vaillant also here, who said that the 
 canoe was so broken by another fall as to be perfectly use- 
 less, and that they had left it behind. The anguish this in- 
 telligence occasioned may be conceived, but cannot be de- 
 scribed. Impressed, however, with the necessity of taking 
 it forward, even in the state these men represented it to be, 
 Captain Franklin urgently desired them to fetch it; but 
 they declined groing, and the strength of the officers was in- 
 adequate to the task. To their infatuated obstinacy on this 
 occasion, a great portion of the melancholy circumstances 
 which attended their subsequent progress may, perhaps, be 
 attributed. 7'he men now seemed to have lost all hope of 
 being preserved ; and all the arguments that could be used 
 failed in stimulating them to the least exertion. After con- 
 suming the remains of the bones and horns of the deer, they 
 resumed their march, and in the evening reached a con- 
 tracted part of the lake, which they forded, and encamped 
 on the opposite side. Heavy rain began soon afterwards 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 509 
 
 and continued all night. On the followin*^ morning (he rain 
 had so wasted the soow, that the tracks of Mr. Back and his 
 companions, who had gone before U'ith the hunters, were 
 traced with difficulty ; and the frequent showers during the 
 day almost obliterated them. The men became furious at 
 the apprehension of being deserted by the hunters, and some 
 of the strongest throwing down their bundles, prepared to 
 I set out after them, intending to leave the more weak to fol- 
 
 low as they could. The entreaties and threats of the officers, 
 however, prevented their executing this mad scheme ; but 
 not before Solomon Belanger was dispatched with orders for 
 Mr. Back to halt. Soon afterwards they overtook Mr. Back, 
 who had been detained in consequence of his companions 
 having followed same recent tracks of deer. After halting 
 an hour, during which they refreshed themselves with eating 
 their old shoes, andafcM scraps of leather, they set forward 
 in the hope of ascertaining whetiier an adjoining piece of Wa- 
 ter was the Copper-mine River or not, but were soon com- 
 pelled to return and encamp, for fear of a separation of the 
 party as they could not see each other at ten yards' distance. 
 The fog diminishing towards evening, Augustus was sent to 
 examine the water, but having lost his way he did not 
 reach the tents before midnight, when he brought the infor- 
 mation of its being a lake. They supped upon tripe de roche, 
 and enjoyed a comfortable fire, having found some pines, 
 seven or eight feet high, in a valley near the encampment. 
 The next morning, they killed five small deer out of a herd, 
 which came in sight as tliey were on the point of starting. 
 This unexpected supply re-animated the drooping spirits of 
 the men, and filled every heart with gratitude. They so 
 earnestly and strongly pleaded their recent suiFerings, and 
 their conviction that the quiet enjoyment of two substantial 
 meals, after eight days' fasting, would enable them to pro- 
 ceed next day more vigorously, that their entreaties could 
 not be resisted. The flesh, the skins, and even the contents 
 of the stomachs of the deer were equally distributed among 
 
610 franklin's JUURNKY 
 
 llie party I)y Mr. Hood, who had volunteered, on the de- 
 parture of Mr. Wentzel, to perforno the duty of issuing the 
 provision. Tliis invidious task he had all along performed 
 Avilh great impartiality, but seldom without producing some 
 grumbling among the Canadians ; and, on the present oc- 
 casion, the hunters were displeased that the heads and some 
 other parts, had not been added to their portions. It is pro- 
 j)er to remark, that Mr. Hood always took the smallest por- 
 tion for his own mess, but this weighed little with these men, 
 as long as their own appetites remained unsatisfied. They 
 all suffered much inconvenience from eating animal food after 
 their long abstinence, but particularly those men who in- 
 dulged themselves beyond moderation. The Canadians, 
 with their usual thoughtlessness, consumed above a third of 
 their portion of meat that evening. 
 
 On the 26lh they arrived at the Copper-mine Ri.ver. It 
 flowed to the northward, and after winding about five miles, 
 terminated in Point Lake. Its current was swift, and there 
 were two rapids in this part of its course, which in a canoe 
 could have been crossed with ease and safety. These rapids, 
 as well as every other part of the river, were carefully exa- 
 mined in search of a ford ; but finding none, the expedient 
 occurred of attempting to cross on a raft made of the wil- 
 lows which were growing there, or in a vessel framed with 
 willows, and covered with the canvass of the tents ; but both 
 these schemes were abandoned, through the obstinacy of the 
 interpreters and the most experienced voyagers, who de- 
 clared that they would prove inadequate to the conveyance of 
 the party, and that much time would be lost in the attempt. 
 The men, in fact, did not believe that this was the Copper- 
 mine River, and so much had they bewildered themselves on 
 the march, that some of them asserted it was Hood's River, 
 and others that it was the Bethe tessy, (a river which rises 
 from a lake to the northward of Rum Lake, and holds a 
 course to the sea parallel with that of the Co]»per-mine.) In 
 short, their despondency had returned, and they all de- 
 
TO THE POLAR SKA. 511 
 
 spairedof seeing Fort Enterprise as^ain. However, the steady 
 assurances of the officers that they were actually on the banks 
 of the Copper-mine River, and that the distance to Fort 
 Enterprise did not exceed forty miles, madesome impression 
 upon them, which was increased upon their finding some 
 bear-berry plants, which are reported by the Indians not to 
 grow to the eastward of the river. I'hey then deplored their 
 folly and impatience in breaking the cano(^, being all of opi- 
 nion, that had it not been so completely demolished on the 
 23d, it might have been repaired sufficiently to take the party 
 over. Peltier and Vaillant were examined as to its state, 
 with the intention of sending for it ; but they persisted in the 
 declaration, that it was in a totally unserviceable condition. 
 St. Germain being called upon to endeavour to construct a 
 canoe frame of willows, stated that he was unable to make 
 one sufficiently large. It became necessary, therefore, to 
 search for pines of sufficient size to form a raft ; and being 
 aware that such trees grow on the borders of Point Lake, 
 they considered it best to trace its shores in search of them ; 
 and, therefore, resumed their march, carefully looking forf» 
 fordable part, and encamped at the east end of Point Lake. 
 As there was little danger of losing the path of the hunters 
 whilstthey coasted on the shores of this lake, Captain Frank- 
 lin determined on again sending 3Jr. Back forward, with the 
 interpreters to hunt. In this arrangement, he had the fur- 
 ther object of enabling Mr. Back to get across the lake wit!> 
 two of the men, to convey the earliest possible account of 
 their situation to the Indians. He instructed him to halt at 
 the first pines he should come to, and then prepare a raft ; 
 and if his hunters had killed any animals, he was to cross im- 
 mediately with St. Germain and Beauparlant, and send the 
 Indians as quickly as possible with supplies of meat. 
 
 Mr. Back and his party set out at six in the morning, and 
 Captain Franklin started at seven. As the snow had en- 
 tirely disappeared, and there was no means of distinguish- 
 ing the footsteps of stragglers, he gave strict orders for all 
 
512 franklin's journey 
 
 the party to keep together; and desired the two Esquimaux 
 not to leave them, they having often strayed in search of the 
 remains of animals. The people, however, through de- 
 spondency, had become careless and disobedient, and had 
 ceased to dread punishment, or hope for reward. Much 
 lime was lost in halting and firing guns to collect them, but 
 tli^ labour of walking was so much lightened by the disap- 
 pearance of the snow, that they advanced seven or eight miles 
 along the lake before noon, exclusive of the loss of distance 
 in rounding its numerous bays. At length they came to an 
 arm, running away to the north-cast, and apparently con- 
 nected with the lake which they had coasted on the 22nd, 
 23rd, and 24th of the month. 
 
 The idea of again rounding such an extensive piece of wa- 
 ter and travelling over so barren a country was dreadful, and 
 they feared that other arms, equally large, might obstruct 
 their path, and tlvat tUt? strength of the party would entirely 
 fail, long before they could reach the only part where they 
 were certain of finding wood. While they halted to consider 
 of this subject, aiui to collect the party, the carcase of a deer 
 was discovered in the cleft of a rock into which it had fallen 
 in the spring. It was putrid, but little less acceptable to 
 them on that account ; and a fire being kindled, a large por- 
 tion was devoured on the spot. The men, cheered by this 
 unlooked-for supply, became sanguine in the hope of being 
 able to cross the stream on a rid of willows, although they 
 had before declared such a project in) practicable, and they 
 unanimously desired to return back to the rapid, a request 
 which was acceded to. Credit and Junius, however, were 
 missing, and it was also necessary to send notice of their in- 
 tention to Mr. Back and his party. Augustus being pro- 
 mised a reward, undertook the task, and it was agreed to 
 "wait for him at the rapid. It was supposed he could not fail 
 meeting with the two stragglers on his way to or from Mr. 
 Back, as it was likely they would keep on the borders of the 
 lake. 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. Mi 
 
 In the night they heard the report of Credit's gun in an- 
 swer to signal muskets, and he rejoined them in the morn- 
 ing, but they got no intelligence of Junius. 
 
 Eight deer were seen by Michel and Credit, who loitered 
 behind the rest of the party, but they could not approach 
 them. A great many shots were fired by those in the rear 
 at partridges, but they missed, or at least did not choose to 
 add what they killed to the common stock. It was subse- 
 quently learned that the hunters often secreted the partridges 
 they shot, and ate them unknown to the officers. Some 
 tripe de roche was collected, which they boiled for supper, 
 with the moiety of the remainder of the deer's meat. The 
 men commenced cutting willows for the construction of a raft 
 to convey them across the river. As an excitement to exer- 
 tion. Captain Franklin promised a reward of three hundred 
 livres to the first person who should convey a line across the 
 river, by which the raft could be managed in transporting 
 the party. Several attempts were made by Belanger and 
 Benoit, the strongest men of the party, to convey the raft 
 across the stream, but they failed for want of oars. A pole 
 constructed by tying the tent poles together, was too short 
 to reach the bottom at a short distance from the shore ; and 
 a paddle which had been carried from the sea-coast by Dr. 
 Richardson, did not possess sufficient power to move the raft 
 in opposition to a strong breeze, which blew from the other 
 side. All the men sifflfered extremely from the c<^dness of 
 tlie water, in which they were necessarily immersed up to 
 the waist, in tbeirendeavuurstoaid Beiangerand Benoit; and 
 having witnessed repeated failures, they began to consider 
 the scheme as hopeless. At this time Dr. Richardson, 
 prompted by a desire of relieving his suffering companions, 
 proposed to swim across the stream with a line, and to haul 
 the raft over. He launched into t^e stream with a line round 
 his middle, but when he bad got a short distancO from the 
 bank, his arms became benumbed, and he lost the power 
 of moving them ; still he persevered, and turning on his back» 
 
 P. V. 22. V V V 
 
514 franklin's journey 
 
 had nearly g-ained the opposite bank, when his legs also be- 
 came powerless, and he sank. They instantly hauled upon 
 th»Iine and he canoe on the surface, and was gradually drawn 
 ashore in an almost lifeless state. Being rolled up in blan- 
 kets, he was placed before a good fire of willows, and for- 
 tunately was just able to speak sufficiently to give some slight 
 directions respecting the manner of treating him. He reco- 
 vered strength gradually, and through the blessing of God 
 was enabled in the course of a few hours to converse, and 
 by the evening was sufficiently recovered to remove into the 
 tent; They then regretted to learn, that the skin of his 
 whole left side was deprived of feeling, in consequence of 
 exposure to too great heat. He did not perfectly recover 
 the sensation of that side until the following summer. Tt 
 cannot be described what every one felt at beholding the 
 skeleton which Dr. Richardson's debilitated frame exhibited. 
 In the evening Augustus came in. He had walked a day 
 and a half beyond the place from whence they had turned 
 back, but had neither seen Junius nor Mr. Back. Of the 
 former he had seen no traces, but he had followed the tracks 
 of Mr. Back's party for a considerable distance, until the 
 hardness of the ground rendered them imperceptible. Ju- 
 nius was well equipped with ammunition, blankets, knives, 
 a kettle, and other necessaries , and it was the opinion of 
 Augustus that when he found he could not rejoin the party, 
 lie would endeavour to gain the woods on the west end of 
 Point Lake, and follow the river until he fell in with the Es- 
 quimaux, who frequent its mouth. Credit, on a hunting 
 excursion, found a cap, which was recognised to belong to 
 one of the liunters who had left them in the spring. This 
 circumstance produced the conviction of their being on the 
 banks of the Copper-mine River, which all the exertions of 
 the officers had hitherto failed in effecting with some of the 
 party ; and it had the happy consequence of reviving their 
 spirits considerably. 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 515 
 
 In the evening^, after supping on some tripe de roehp, they 
 retired to sleep. On the 1st of October, they had the sa- 
 tisfaction of seeing Mr. Back return. He had advanced 
 nearly twenty miles beyond the party accompanying Captain 
 Franklin ; and fearing that the lake extended yet many miles 
 farther, he thought it most prudent to return. One of the 
 hunters this evening brought in some bones and antlers of a 
 deer. The meat had been entirely picked off; but the mar- 
 row, although it was now become putrid, was gladly eaten^ 
 although it was acrid, and the bones being burnt, were equally 
 divided among the party, and eaten by them. 
 
 They now occupied their time in making another raft 
 to convey them across the lake, to effect which a quantity of 
 willows were gathered, with which, and some canvass, Ger- 
 main undertook to form a vessel for that purpose. Many of 
 them were now in a state of the greatest weakness. A great 
 quantity of snow had fallen during the 2d and 3d, and their 
 sufferings led several to give up all hopes of being able to re- 
 turn. Mr. Hood and Dr. Richardson presented to the eye 
 the appearance of skeletons, as indeed did most of the party. 
 The former was afHicted with so severe a complaint in his 
 bowels from eating the tripe de roche, tliat he could no lon- 
 ger partake of what was dressed, and at this juncture, when 
 out of consideration for his sufferings a partridge was re^ 
 served for him, it was stolen by some of the men The person 
 whose spirits were least depressed was the seaman Hepburn, 
 who appeared to rely with unabated confidence on the divine 
 protection, and never relinquished his efforts to procure sus- 
 tenance, nor his endeavours to assist the weak and depressed. 
 
 On the 4th of October, St, Germain having completed 
 the canoe which was to convey them across the water, em- 
 harked in it himself and reached the opposite shore in safety. 
 It was then brought back and others conveyed over until the 
 whole party had crossed in safety, although several of them 
 were severely wet by its admitting a considerable quantity of 
 water. As soon as they had recovered from the fatigue of 
 
 U u u 2 
 
516 franklin's journey 
 
 crossing, Captain Franklin requested Mr. Back to proceed 
 forwards, taking with him Pierre St. Germain, Solomon 
 Belanger, and Gabriel Beauparlant. He was to search for 
 the Indians and to proceed to Fort Enterprise j at which 
 place, if they met with no succour before, they had not a 
 doubt but their necessities would be supplied, and where 
 sufficient intelligence would be left by Mr. Wentzel, as had 
 been agreed on their parting, to direct them to different de- 
 pots of provisions. 
 
 The spirits of the wh'»le party again reviTed, ami the Ca- 
 nadian voyagers now expressed their confidence that they 
 should soon arrive at Fort Enterprise, where they expected 
 all their trials would have an end. They had however to en- 
 dure the want of even a little tripe de roche, and large quan-' 
 tities of snow fell during the night. 
 
 On the morning of the 5th, they did not proceed until eight 
 o'clock, as the frozen state of their clothes caused them to re- 
 main round the fire they had kindled. After proceeding about 
 two hours, they found some tripe de roche, on which they 
 breakfasted. They afterwards continued their journey until 
 the evening, when they partook of a slender meal of tripe 
 de roche and scraps of roasted leather. On the following 
 morning they made another meal of scraps of leather, and 
 then went forwards. The road was now over a range of 
 bleak hills, and the wind was severely cold. The weakness 
 of some of the party was so great as almost to prevent their 
 proceeding farther. Credit was no longer able to carry more 
 than his blanket and gun, and with others, lingered a 
 distance behind. About noon Samandre came up and said 
 that Credit and Vaillant were too weak to proceed any farther. 
 Upon this the party halted and Dr. Richardson went back to 
 them. As there was a quantity of willows on the spot, a fire 
 was made. After returning nearly two miles, he found 
 Vaillant, who was extremely weak from fatigue and cold. 
 On being informed that if he made an effort to reach the 
 party in advance he would find a fire provided, he strove to 
 
TO THE POLAR SKA. 517 
 
 proceed, but repeatedly fe!l. He said that Credit was a 
 short distance in the rear, and the Doctor proceeded io 
 search of him ; but there being a very strong snow drift, af- 
 ter proceeding about half a naile he was constrained to re- 
 turn, as he lost all traces of their footsteps. On arriving 
 again at the spot where he had found Vaillunl, he had moved 
 only a few yards, having been unable to stand, and was 
 now scarcely able to articulate. The Doctor now hastened 
 to inform the captain and his party of their situation, and 
 Belanger, with others, immediately proceeded to his help ; 
 he was benumbed with cold and incapable of being roused. 
 Those who were sent to help him on, declared themselves 
 too weak to carry him, and even begged to be permitted to 
 leave their baggage and make the best of their way to Fort 
 Enterprise. 
 
 It wasuow proposed ihnt the strongest of the party should 
 proceed forwards ; and at length Mr. Hood and Dr. Rich- 
 ardson agreed to remain behind with one of the men, when- 
 ever they should arrive at a spot where a sufficient quantity 
 of tripe de roche could be found for a few days support ; and 
 that Captain Franklin and the others should proceed to Fort 
 Enterprise and send them from thence supplies and help as 
 they needed. By this plan several articles might be left be- 
 hind, so as to ease the advance party ; and accordingly a tent, 
 a small barrel of powder, and other luggaj:^^, was given into 
 the care of Dr. Richardson, and they then proceeded on their 
 journey. Vaillant's blanket was left, under a hope, which 
 indeed was very distant, that he might get further on his 
 journey; and as Credit had some leather and a blanket, 
 their hopes were that he also might be preserved alive. 
 
 Having come to this determination, they proceeded on 
 the following morning on their journey ; and arriving at 
 a place where there grew a quantity of willows, and near 
 which they observed a quantity of tripe de roche. Dr. Rich- 
 ardson and Mr. Hood determined to remain here ; and the 
 faithful seaman John He[)burn, voluntarily (^fFcred to remain 
 
518 franklin's JOUnNEY 
 
 with them. They therefore pitched their (ent, collected a supply 
 of willows, and placed in as much safety as they could the am- 
 munition and other articles which were to be left with them. 
 The circumstance of leaving these friends behind, after hav- 
 ing been his companions in such a variety of difficulties, Gap- 
 tain Franklin felt most keenly ; but the hope of being able 
 the sooner to send a supply of provisions from Fort Enter- 
 prise, induced him to submit ; and two of the Canadian voy- 
 agers promised to hasten wi(h supplies from the fort, or to 
 guide any of the Indians to their encampment whom they 
 might meet. 
 
 Having taken an affectionate farewell of their companions, 
 Captain Franklin and his party set forward on their journey, 
 and had not proceeded far before they arrived at a spot 
 covered with pines, and surrounded by a considerable quan- 
 tity of tripe de roche, which made them regret that the 
 friends whom they had so recently parted with had fixed their 
 tents so early, as their accommodation would have been 
 greater at this place. Proceeding forwards, they found the 
 country presented a level surface, on which the snow lay to 
 a considerable depth, and walking became so laborious, that 
 after travelling about four miles, they were obliged to encamp. 
 Belanger and Michel got on with very great difficulty, not 
 being able to keep up with their companions ; and on arriv- 
 ing, stated their wish to return to their companions behind. 
 They were unable to find any tripe de roche, but made some 
 tea of a plant they found, and took a small portion of burnt 
 leather. They passed an almost sleepless night from the seve- 
 rity of the cold, and being unable through weakness to raise 
 their tent, they cut it up and made coverings of the canvass. 
 Captain Franklin wrote a note to Mr. Hood and his compa- 
 nions, and gave it to Michel and Belaijger, who continued 
 in their purpose of returning, and then proceeded forwards. 
 They had scarcely moved, before Perrault and Fontano, two 
 of the Canadian voyagers, became subject to a giddiness and 
 could not proceed. A little tea was quickly pre])ared for 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 519 
 
 them, and some scorched leather was given them to eat, which 
 in a measure recovered them, and they desired to proceed. 
 Perrault however soon found himself again so affected that he 
 declared his incapability to proceed, and said he would re- 
 turn to Belanger and Michel. Bidding the party adieu he set 
 out on his return, and Captain Franklin again went forwards. 
 The snow was deep and their progress slow. Crossing a 
 small lake, the ice was so smooth, and the wind blew so pow- 
 erfully, that they continually slipped, and were then scarcely 
 able to recover themselves. Fontano now became incapable 
 of proceeding ; every endeavour was used to sustain him, 
 and encourage him to proceed, but in vain, and he often 
 fell down. Finding it impossible for him to proceed, it was 
 recommended to him to return to the parties who had been 
 left behind, and as the clump of pines was still in view the 
 way was easily to be found. He accordingly after being a 
 little recovered set out to rejoin his feeble companions, and 
 though weak and proceeding slowly, yet Captain Franklin 
 had the satii^faction to see him get on better than he expected. 
 To leave his companions behind one after another in so 
 weak, feeble and distressing a situation gave the mind of 
 Captain Franklin the greatest pain. Had any of the party 
 had sufficient strength to have borne one of their companions 
 upon their shoulders, he would have endeavoured to have 
 supported them ; but the strongest men were so weak and 
 feeble, that the effort would have been fruitless ; and how- 
 ever much it might excite his feelings, no alternative was 
 left, and indeed it appeared to be only to delay and prolong 
 the prospect of obtaining help, if they remained with such of 
 their companions as had not strength to go forwards. The 
 party now consisted of only five persons ; Captain Franklin, 
 Semandre, Benoit, Adam and Peltier. Augustus had gone 
 forwards alone, while the party were detained by the differ- 
 ent persons who became so affected as to be obliged to re- 
 turn. These five persons now proceeded on their journey^ 
 and arriving at a spot where there were a <|uaQtity of willows, 
 
520 franklin's journev 
 
 they encamped, and making a fire, attempted to gather some 
 tripe de roche, but without success, from the severity of the 
 weather ; they therefore made a meal of a few pieces of lea- 
 ther and some tea. The next morning the weather being 
 more mild, they gathered a quantity of tripe de roche, and 
 felt much refreshed after their repast. They then com- 
 menced their journey, and arrived" at Martin Lake, which 
 they found so frozen over as to enable them to cross it, which 
 they did, and arrived at Winter River, by which the spirits 
 of the party were greatly raised, as they had now arrived at 
 a spot know to thera all. Having eiwamped for the night, 
 which was very stormy, they rose early in the morning, and 
 commenced their journey in the hope of reaching Fort En- 
 terprise before night. In their journey they saw a large herd 
 of niu-deer, but they were so feeble that they could not 
 pursue tlum. In the afternoon they encamped in the vici- 
 nity of a great number of pines, and made a comfortable fire. 
 They made a meal on some shoes and made some tea ; but 
 no tripe de roche could be found. They then set out for 
 the fort, anticipating that their sufferings were now at an 
 end ; but what their feelings were on arriving at that place, 
 no language can describe. Instead of finding a depot of pro- 
 visions, and some Indians or other persons to administer to 
 their many wants and necessities, they found it completely 
 desolate. The sight was so extremely distressing that the 
 "whole party burst into tears. Comforting: themselves as they 
 had done, with the pleasing assurance that at this place their 
 trials would end, and that they should quickly dispatch to 
 their suffering friends in the rear, that assistance and sup- 
 port which they so greatly needed, the view of the house in 
 its desolate state was like an arrow to the heart, and the 
 whole party almost sunk under the feelings it produced. 
 Here they expected to find a letter from Mr. Wentzel giv- 
 ing them information respecting the places where they should 
 find provision ; but no letter, nor the least indication of any 
 effort to serve them, could be seen. They found here how- 
 
TO THli POLAR SEA. S%X 
 
 ever a note from Mr. Back, intimating that he had been at 
 this place two days before, and sayinjj that he was gone to 
 search after the Indians, and that he should proceed in the 
 direction of Fort Providence, and that if he did not meet 
 with any Indians he would expedite assistance from (hence ; 
 but at the same time he expressed his fears that neither him* 
 self nor any of his party would have strength to accomplish 
 the journey. 
 
 As the hope of help was now so distant, Captain Franklin 
 resolved to make an excursion himself to find some of the In- 
 dians ; he resolved however to wait two or three days, that 
 his party might recruit their strength, and also in the hope that 
 he might hear from Mr. Back that he had been successful in 
 seeking for them. As to the place of their present residence, 
 the room in which they took up their abode was exposed to 
 all the severity of the weather, the temperature of which 
 was now 15® below zero. There were indeed several deer 
 skins, which were left when they took up their residence here 
 in the spring, and they found among the ashes a quantity of 
 the bones of the animals which they then killed. With this 
 fare, and with the tripe de roche which they might gather, 
 they considered they had sufficient to support them for a 
 time, and having no other choice they endeavoured to sub- 
 mit. 
 
 On the following evening, while preparing their hard face 
 for a repast, the Esquimaux Augustus made his appearance. 
 They were greatly rejaiced to see him, as from the length 
 of time he had been missing they were apprehensive some 
 serious misfortune had befel him. On inquiry it was found 
 that on leaving the party he had pursued a different rout 
 from the others ; but accustomed as the people of his nation 
 are to roving about, he had sufficient conception of the di- 
 rection in which Fort Enterprise was situated, so as to reach 
 it without those helps by which the English made their reck- 
 onings. The weather at this time was much more severe 
 than it had been at the same period in the last year; and 
 
 P. V.22. Xxx 
 
6J2 franklin's journey 
 
 they saw but few tracks of the rein-deer, which the preced- 
 ing year had been very numerous. 
 
 On the 13th of October, the wind being high, the snow 
 drifting very much, the party remained at their residence, 
 and in the course of the day Solomon Belanger made his ap- 
 pearance in a state of great exhaustion and distress. His 
 hair was frozen, his whole dress was covered with ice, and 
 it was with difficulty he gave them to understand that he had 
 fallen into one of the rapids and narrowly escaped with his 
 life. He brought a letter from Mr. Back, in which he said 
 that he had not been able to meet with any of the Indians, 
 and requested Captain Franklin to signify his wishes as to 
 the road he should take. 
 
 Every endeavour was used to reanimate the almost expir- 
 ing spirits of Belanger ; they gave him some warm broth, took 
 off his frozen garments, rubbed his chilled limbs, and ex- 
 erted every effort to make him comfortable. It could not 
 but be noticed how much a sense of the sufferings they had 
 endured, and the still awful appearances as to what awaited 
 them, appeared to influence their behaviour. Oaths, to which 
 some of the party were greatly addicted, now no longer came 
 out of their mouths ; a spirit of humble submission to their 
 fate appeared to influence them ; and feelings of the most 
 affectionate nature were now particularly manifest towards 
 the suffering Belanger. That the custom which had pre- 
 vailed, during the whole progress of the expedition, of pay- 
 ing regard to the Lord's Day, and of prayer to the Divine 
 Being on other occasions, had now its measure of influence 
 upon the most thoughtless and reprobate, cannot be doubted, 
 and the circumstance may be added to the many arguments 
 which history and experience holds forth, to those who are 
 in any measure of authority, that their duty is to profess their 
 dependence and manifest their reliance upon the over-ruling 
 providence of God, assured that the time of suffering and 
 difiiculty will Jead others to seek for the salvation of Him in 
 whom ihey live, and move, and have their being. 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 523 
 
 As from the letter of Mr. Back, it appeared there Were no 
 ludiaus in the neighbourhood of Fort Enterprise, Captain 
 Franklin resolved to proceed towards Rein-deer Lake, which 
 was in the road to Fort Providence. He wrote to this ef- 
 fect to Mr. Back, and also apprised him of the state and cir- 
 cumstances in which IVIr* Hood and the other persons were 
 left behind, that they might receive any attention which cir- 
 cumstances might present. It v^as three days before Belan- 
 ger was sufficiently recovered to return, and then he was dis- 
 missed with tlie letter. 
 
 Captain Franklin now proceeded to arrange for his jour- 
 ney to Fort Providence ; but it appeared impossible for him 
 to take the whole party, as Adam, one of the hunters, was 
 so afflicted with numerous swellings in different parts of his 
 body, as to be incapable of walking. He therefore deter- 
 mined to take Benoit and Augustus, and to send assistance 
 by one of them the very first opportunity. Preparatory to 
 removing he made up a package for the government in Eng- 
 land, consisting of their journals and other papers, which was 
 left to the care of the persons who were to remain at Fort 
 Enterprise, and to be given to the Indians, should any call, 
 directing them to send it to any of the North-west or Hud- 
 son's Bay settlements, as they might have opportunity. Cap- 
 tain Franklin then wrote a letter (to be sent when opportu- 
 nity offered) to Mr. Hood and Dr. Richardson. Having 
 given some other directions to Peltier, Saraandre and Adam, 
 who were to remain at Fort Enter])i ise, they bade them fare- 
 well. This was a season which excited all their feelings and 
 brought afresh to their recollection the various sufferings 
 which they had mutally endured. A disposition to be re- 
 signed to the divine will, be the result whatever it might, 
 appeared to influence the whole party ; and every one ap- 
 peared to possess a mind prepared for all the sufferings and 
 privations each might have to pass through. 
 
 Having singed some pieces of skin to be used for food, 
 and mended their snow shoes, Captain Franklin and his two 
 
 X X X 2 
 
5U 
 
 companions quilted Fort Enterprise on the 20tli. Tliey 
 found themselves so weak, and the road so difficult, that af- 
 ter six hours labour they had only proceeded four miles, and 
 then fixed their abode for the ni^ht on the ed^e of a lake, 
 and partook of some tea and singed skin. Worn out and 
 emaciated as they were, the cold was severe and distressing, 
 and they lay close to each other to procure warmth. In the 
 morning, after a slight repast, they again set out, but had 
 proceeded only a short distance when Captain Franklin had 
 the misfortune to fall and break his snow shoes, and tlie dif- 
 ficulty in walking became so great, and exhausted him so 
 much, that lie resolved to relinquish the attempt, and to send 
 Benoitand Augustus forwards wliile he returned to the fort* 
 He therefore wrote a note to Mr. Back, describing his situa- 
 tion and desiring him to send provisions by some means the 
 tery first opportunity ; and they were to continue their jour* 
 ney until they reached Fort Providence in case they miss<^d 
 of meeting any persons from whom assistance could be ob- 
 tained. 
 
 Having dispatched these men, he made his way back to the 
 fort, where he found his companions in a state of great ueaU- 
 ness and imbecility. Peltier was the only one who seemed 
 capable of using any efforts towards their support; Saman- 
 dre appeared to give himself up to despair, and Adam was 
 too ill to afford any help. Upon the whole it seems proba- 
 ble that but for Captain Franklin*8 return they would have 
 sunk under their accumulated sufferings. He used every 
 effort to cheer their spirits and to inspire them with the hope 
 that their trials would soon be over, and vhat assistance would 
 quickly arrive. Under feelings of their inadequacy to exert 
 themselves, they had resolved to partake of only one meal a 
 day ; but the captain now cooked their food ana required 
 Ihera to take refreshment more often. The weatber being 
 at this time snowy and gloomy, neither Peltier nor Adam 
 would leave their beds, and it was with difficuUy that they 
 could be prevailed on to take the food provided for them. 
 
TO THE POLAR SKA, 525 
 
 Their strenglh tieclined daily, and every effort to do the ne- 
 cessary duties was painful. Even to change the position in 
 which they sat or lay required an exertion which they almost 
 refused to make. It was to be expected that as the winter 
 advanced, and the ground became bound by the frost, that 
 they would be deprived of the tripe de roche, which was so 
 very necessary to mix with the pounded bones and scorched 
 skins that they found at the fort; yet under all these com- 
 plicated sufferings, their solicitude for Mr. Hood, Dr. Rich- 
 ardson and those left behind, whom they supposed to be, if 
 possible, in a state of greater privation, excited their in- 
 creasing sensibility, and was indeed, with the ideas of the help 
 to be sent, principally the subject of their conversation. 
 
 By the 29th they had burned up all the loose wood at)out 
 their dwellings and proceeded to pull down som*» of the par- 
 titions of the houses which had been erected when they were 
 at this place in the spring. The distance fron) the place in 
 which they dwelt was but a few yards, yet the conveying 
 them was a work of great labour in their weak state; and Pel- 
 tier, who alone was strong enough to do the work of loosen- 
 ing the boards, felt so oppressed that it was with difficulty 
 that they procured wood sufficient to continue the fire. They 
 saw this day a herd of rein-deer about u mile distant, baf 
 every one was now so weak that it was not in their power 
 to go after them. 
 
 This day they had the phasing, yet in many respects 
 mournful satisfaction of seeing Dr. Richardson and the sea- 
 man Hepburn enter their apartment. As none of the other 
 persons who were left behind made their a])pearance, they 
 were iilled with anxious fears respecting their fate. The 
 emaciated apj)earance of the doctor and his companion 
 shocked their feelings, and they were still n.ore agitated upon 
 hearing that Perrault and Fontano had not been seen by them, 
 and that Mr. Hood and Michel were dead. On the other 
 hand the hollow countenances of the captain and bis compa- 
 nions, and the sejuilchral tone of their voices, excited in the 
 
626 franklin's journky 
 
 doctor and Hopbiun sensations of a like kind in respect of 
 them. 
 
 Hepburn having shot a partridge, the doctor tore off 
 the feathers, and having held it to the fire a few minutes, di- 
 vided it into six portions. The captain and his three compa- 
 nions- ravenously devoured their shares, as it was the first 
 morsel of flesh any of them had tasted for thirty-one days, 
 unless indeed the small gristly particles which were found oc- 
 casionally adhering to the pounded bones may be termed 
 flesh. Their spirits were revived by this small supply, and the 
 doctor endeavoured to raise them still higher by the prospect 
 of Hepburn's being able to kill a deer next day, as they had 
 seen, and even fired at, several near the house. The doc- 
 tor having brought his prayer book and testament, some 
 prayers and psalms, and portions of scripture, appropriate 
 to their situation, were read, and they retired to bed. Next 
 morning the doctor and Hepburn went out early in search of 
 deer; but though they saw several herds, and fired some shots, 
 they were not so fortunate as to kill any, being too weak to 
 hold their guns steadily. The cold compelled the former to re- 
 turn soon, but Hepburn persisted until late in the evening. 
 Peltier and Samandre continued very weak and dispirited, 
 and they were unable to cut fire-wood. Hepburn had in 
 consequence that laborious task to ])erform after he came 
 back. 
 
 Dr. Richardson staled, (hat upon Captain Franklin, Pt*l- 
 tier, Samandre, and the others leaving, they had kept up 
 the fire as long as they had any wood to burn ; and that t!ie 
 weather was afterwards so stormy that they could not move 
 during the next day, and therefore lay in their beds, and 
 having a few religious books which were given to them by a 
 lady in London, one of the party read them aloud. The doc- 
 tor stated that the reading of these books, together with their 
 attention to daily reading prayers, so sustained their spirits, 
 and influenced them to trust in the divine protection, that a 
 spirit of cheerfulness was manifest among them. On the 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 527 
 
 succeeilin^ day Michel, who with Bclanger had, as noticed 
 in a preceding part of the narrative, been compelled to re- 
 linquish the journey, joined him. He stated that Belanger 
 had left him, but the doctor said that the circumstances 
 which afterwards occurred led hitn since to suppose that 
 Michel had murdered his companion. Michel brought with 
 him a hare and a partridge, which was a most acceptable sup- 
 ply to the hungry party, and after partaking thereof they 
 rested for the night. On the succeeding day they proceeded 
 to the place which Captain Franklin had by letter recom- 
 mended him to move to, and afterwards Mr. Hood removed 
 to it. Michel, who had remained by himself the preced- 
 ing evening, brought some meat, which he said was part of a 
 wolf which had been killed by a deer, but which the parties 
 since have supposed to be part of a human body, and that 
 he had killed Perrault also. 
 
 After this Michel refused to hunt or to assist in convey- 
 ing the wood for the fire ; he manifested also in various other 
 ways much of an angry spirit, saying " you had better kill 
 and eat me, for there are no beasts to be found." In this 
 state some days passed, until one morning, after having read 
 the prayers. Dr. Richardson went out to endeavour to gather 
 some tripe de roche, and Hepburn was engaged in procuring 
 wood, in order that he might leave a stock for a few days sup- 
 ply, as it was purposed that he and Michel should set out for 
 Fort Enterprise. They had not been long absent from thehouse 
 when they heard the report of a gun, and shortly after Hep- 
 burn, in a state of great alarm, called to the doctor to come 
 instantly to the house, where Mr. Hood lay dead, a ball 
 having passed through his forehead. Their distress at view- 
 ing him in that state was indescribable ; at first Dr. Richard- 
 sou supposed that in a fit of despondency he had hurried him- 
 self into the presence of his Almighty Judge, by an act of 
 his own hand ; but the conduct of Michel soon gave rise to 
 other thoughts, and excited suspicions, which were confirmed^ 
 Tvhen upon examining the body, he discovered that the shot 
 
528 franklin's journey 
 
 had entered the back part of the head, and passed out al 
 <he forehead, and that the muzzle of the gun had oeen ap- 
 plied so close as to set fire to the night-cap behind. The 
 gun, which was of the longest kind supplied to the Indians, 
 could not have been placed in a position to inflict such a 
 wound, except by a second person. Upon inquiring of Mi- 
 chel how it happened, he replied, that Mr. Hood had sent 
 him into the tent for the short gun, and that during his ab- 
 sence the long gun had gone off, he did not know whether 
 by accident or not. Hepburn afterwards said that previous 
 to the report of the gun, Mr. Hood and Michel were speak- 
 ing to each other in an elevated angry tone; that Mr. Hood 
 being seated at the fire- side, was hid from him by interven- 
 ing willows, bat that on hearing the report, he looked up and 
 saw Michel rising up from before the tent-door, or just be- 
 hind where Mr. Hood was seated, and then going into the 
 tent. Thinking that the gun had been discharged for the pur- 
 pose of cleaning it, he did not go to the fire at first ; and 
 when Michel called to him that Mr. Hood was dead, a consi- 
 derable time had elapsed. The loss of a young officer <»f 
 such distinguished and varied talents and application, can- 
 not but be felt and duly appreciated by the persons under 
 whose command he had served; but the calmness with which 
 he contemplated the j)robable terminatio<n of a life of uncom- 
 mon promise, and the patience and fortiti*de with which he 
 sustained great bodily sufferings, can only be known to the 
 companions of his distresses. Owing to the effect that the 
 tripe de roche invariably had, when he ventured to taete 
 it, he undoubtedly suffered more than any of the survivors 
 of the party. Bickersteth's Scripture Help was lying open 
 beside the body, as if it had fallen from his band, and it is 
 probable that he was reading it at the instan-t of his death. 
 They passed the next night together without rest, every 
 one being on his guard. Next day, having determined oa 
 going to the Fort, they began to patcii and prepwe their 
 clothes for the journey. They singed the bair ©ff a part of 
 
TO THE PQLAR SEA. 529 
 
 the buflTalo robe that belon^ced to Mr. Hood, and boiled aiid 
 ate it. They afterwards set out on their journey to Fort En- 
 terprise. 
 
 Hepburn and Michel had each a gun, and the doctor car- 
 ried a small pistol which Hepburn had loaded for him. In 
 the course of the march Michel alarmed them much by his 
 gestures and conduct ; he was constantly muttering to him- 
 self, expressed an unwillingness to go to the Fort, and tried 
 to persuade them to go to the southward to the woods, where 
 he said he could maintain himself all the winter by killiog 
 deer. In consequence of this behaviour, and the expres- 
 sion of his countenance. Dr. Richardson requested him to 
 leave them, and to go to the southward by himself. This 
 proposal increased his ill-nature ; he threw out some obscure 
 hints of freeing himself from all restraint on the morrow ; and 
 was overheard muttering threats against Hepburn, whom he 
 openly accused of having told stories against him. He also, 
 for the first time, assumed such a tone of superiority in ad* 
 dressing Dr. Richardson, as evinced that he considered both 
 to be completely in his power, and he gave vent to several 
 expressions of hatred towards the white people, or as h« 
 termed them in the idiom of the voyagers, the French, som« 
 of whom, he said, had killed and eaten his uncle and two 
 of his relations. Taking every circumstance of his conduct 
 into consideration, Dr. Richardson and Hepburn concluded 
 that he would attem])t to destroy them on the first opportu-r 
 nity that offered, and that he had hitherto abstained from do* 
 ing so from his ignorance of his way to the Fort. In their 
 journey, Michel coming to a rock on which there was some 
 tripe de roche, halted, and said he would gather it whilst 
 they went on, and that he would soon overtake them. Hep- 
 burn and the doctor were now left together for the first tim« 
 since Mr. Hood's death, and they were of opinion that there 
 was no safety for them except in Michel's death. Convinced of 
 the necessity of such a dreadful act, Dr. Richardson resolved 
 to take the whole resoonsibihty upon himself ; and immedi- 
 P.V.23. Yyy 
 
630 franklin's journey 
 
 ately upon Michel's coming up, he put an end to liis life by 
 shooting hina through the head with a pistol. 
 
 The narrative here cannot but excite feelings of the most 
 distressing kind in the mind of the reader, at the awful cir- 
 cumstances which have been stated. It appears, however, 
 that the doctor was a man of too benevolent and humane a 
 character to have proceeded to those extremities, but from a 
 sense of its absolute necessity. After this awful event they 
 proceeded on their journey, and ultimately arrived at the fort 
 as before noticed. 
 
 Hepburn, who was the strongest of the party, went out on 
 the 31st in quest of deer, and Dr. Richardson took his gun 
 and set out in search of some provision. A herd of deer 
 passed within view of the doctor, but he was so weak as to be 
 unable to Kill one of the herd. On the 1st of November, 
 Hepburn again set out in pursuit of some deer, but his weak- 
 ness was so great as to render him unsuccessful. Dr. Rich- 
 ardson gathered some tripe de roche, but Semandre and 
 Peltier were become so weak, and their throats so sore, that 
 they could partake of only a small portion. The latter ma- 
 nifested such lassitude that he could no longer sit up, but 
 sunk upon his bed. Supposing him to have laid down be- 
 cause of its being a more easy posture, no particular appre- 
 hensions were entertained for him until a rattling was heard 
 in his throat ; this circumstance excited their attention, and 
 on I)r. Richardson's examining him, he found him speech- 
 less, and he expired before the morning. This circumstance 
 appears to have so affected Semandre, that he died in a few 
 hours after. The severe shock occasioned by the sudden dis- 
 solution of their two companions rendered them very melan- 
 choly. Adam became low and despondent, a change to be 
 lamented the more, as he had been gaining strength and 
 spirits for the two preceding days. The labour of collecting 
 wood now devolved upon Dr. Richardson and Hepburn, and 
 they were occupied the whole of the next day in tearing down 
 the logs of which the store-house was built, the mud plastered 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 53j 
 
 between them being so hard frozen that the labour of sepa- 
 ration exceeded their strength, and they were completely 
 exhausted by bringing in wood sufficient for less than twelve 
 hours' consumption. 
 
 They continued to support themselves by occasionally ga- 
 thering some tripe de roche, which they had h^^rdly strength 
 to effect, their weakness being so great that to move the dis- 
 tance of a few yards was a labour almost insupportable, until 
 the 7th of November. They were become such skeletons 
 that it was with pain of body they lay down on their blankets, 
 and to change their posture was a labour which required a 
 considerable effort to accomplish, and they were obliged to 
 assist each other to rise from their seats. Thus reduced, they 
 had the pleasure on the 7th of November to hear the sound 
 of a musket, and the voices of persons shouting. They soon 
 after had the great pleasure of seeing three Indians named 
 Boudelkell, Crooked-foot and (he Rat, approaching them, 
 having been sent by Akaitcho on the 5th with a supply of 
 dried deer's meat, a few tongues and some other articles, of 
 which they imprudently eat so much as to render them very 
 unwell for a time. It appeared that Mr. Back had reached 
 their encampment, and on stating to Akaitcho the distressed 
 state of his companions, the chief immediately dispatched the 
 three men to the fort. 
 
 Mr. Back's journey had been attended with a variety of 
 circumstances almost as afflictive as those of Captain Frank- 
 lin. In crossing the lakes which were frozen, Belanger twice 
 fell through the ice, and was in one instance saved by Mr. 
 Back and his people pulling him out by fastening the belts 
 which they wore together. Mr. Back in describing his suf- 
 ferings says, " my shoulders were as if they would fall from 
 my body, my legs seemed unable to support me, and had it 
 not been for the remembrance of my friends behind, who re- 
 lied on me for relief, as well as the necessity of regarding 
 those persons of whom I had charge, I should have preferred 
 remaining where I was to the pain of attempting to remove." 
 
 Yvt2 
 
6^32* franklin's journey 
 
 Beauparlant, one of Mr. Back's coin|)anions, wei;i^iied 
 down with fatigue and overcome by the severity of the wea- 
 ther, died on the 16th of October ; the other men, with Mr. 
 Back, after great fatigue, reached the encampment of Akait- 
 dio as before stated 
 
 Boudelkell was sent back to Akaitclio, and with a letter 
 to Mr. Back desiring a further supply of provisions to be sent 
 with all speed; the other two Indians remained with the 
 party at Fort Enterprise, and proceeded to clear the apart- 
 ment of the dirt and fragments of bones and other things 
 which were spread over it. They rendered their habitation 
 by this means, and by the large fires which they now made. 
 So much more comfortable, that the spirits and recovery 
 of the party considerably increased. The Indians caught 
 several fisli in Winter Lake, and used every exertion to make? 
 their abode comfortable; but finding that the supply of pro- 
 visions which was expected from Akaitcho did not arrive, 
 they suddenly quitted the house on the 13th of November, 
 without giving the least intimation of their intention either to 
 Captain Franklin or his companions. This circumstance ap- 
 peared so unaccountable that they were at a loss to surmisd 
 a cause, until by questioning Adam they learned that their 
 fears lest the long delay of provisons which was expected 
 might be the occasion of renewed sufferings in the captain 
 and his people, and that they had gone away purposely io 
 hasten its conveyance. 
 
 On the next day they were obliged to return to their for- 
 mer diet of eating singed skin, and Hepburn had again to 
 procure wood for the fire ; the succeediug day also they were 
 occupying themselves in the same way, when Hepburn de- 
 scried a party approaching the house. He instantly gave 
 information to his companions, and they set about clearing 
 their apartment and removing the scraps of skins out of sight, 
 as it is one of the curious opinions of the Indians tbat such a 
 practice occasions disappointment to the hunters. Three In- 
 dians quickly arrived aiid two of their w»vet>. ii<noit aiso, 
 
to THE POLAR SIA. 533 
 
 \vlio had quitted the house with Augustus to go in search of 
 Mr. Back, returned witli them, from whom he brought a let- 
 ter saying that himself and his companions were about to take 
 their journf-y to Fort Providence. The spirits of Adam were 
 so revived by their appearance that he walked about with an 
 activity which surprised them. 
 
 Having partaken of the refreshments brought, tliey re- 
 scdved to quit Fort Enterprise the following day ; and after 
 uniting in prayer and thanksgiving to God, they set out on 
 tlie KJth of November. Their feelings on quitting the Fort 
 whfre they had formerly enjoyed much comfort, if not hnp- 
 pin6ss, and, latterly, experienced a degree of misery scarcely 
 to be paralleled, may be more easily conceived than de- 
 scribed. The Indians treated them with the utmost tender- 
 ness, gave them their snow-shoes, and walked without them- 
 selves, keeping by their sides, that they niight lift them up 
 when thoy fell. They descended Winter River, and about 
 noon, crossed the head of Round-Rock Lake, distant about 
 three miles from the house, where they were obliged to hal*, 
 as Dr. Richardson was unable to proceed. The swellings 
 in his limbs rendered him by much the wepkest of the j)arty. 
 The Indians then prepared their encampment, cooked for 
 them, and fed them as if they had been children ; evincing 
 a humanity that would have done honour to the most civi- 
 lized people. The nisfht was mild, and they slept soundly. 
 
 On the 26th they arrived at Akaitcho's encampment. They 
 were received in silence, no one opening their lips for a short 
 time, which is their mode of indicating their sympathy at'd 
 compassion. They were then presented with somef'^od ; af- 
 ter which the conversation commenced. Akaitcho shewed 
 the most friendly hospitality, and great personal attention, 
 even cooking for them with his own hands, an office which 
 he never performs for himself. AuuGethai-yazzeh and Hum- 
 j)y, the Chief's two brothers, and several of the hunters, 
 .with their families, were encamoed here, together with a 
 number of old men and women. In the course of the day they 
 
534 FRANKLIN*S JOURNKY 
 
 were visited by every person of the band, not merely froiri ' 
 curiosity, but from a desire to evince (heir tender sympathy. 
 
 On the first of December, they proceeded in company 
 with tlie Indians towards Fort Providence ; and on the 6th 
 Belanger and another person from Mr. Weeks met them 
 with two trains of dogs, some spirits and tobacco for the In- 
 dians, a change of dress for the captain, and a little tea and 
 sugar. They also brought letters from England, and from 
 Mr. Back and Mr. Wentzel. Their letters from England 
 informed them that they had been promoted. 
 
 All the Indians flocked around to learn the news, and to 
 receive the articles brought for them. Having got some spi- 
 rits and tobacco, they withdrew to the tent of the Chief, and 
 passed the greater part of the night in shiging. They had 
 now the indescribable gratification of changing their linen^ 
 which had been worn ever since their departure from the 
 sea-coast. 
 
 On the 8th of December, after a long conference with 
 Akaitcho, they took leave of him and his kind companions, 
 and set out with two sledges heavily laden with provision 
 and bedding, drawn by the dogs, and conducted by Belan- 
 ger and the Canadian sent by Mr. Weeks. Hepburn and 
 Augustus jointly dragged a smaller sledge, laden principally 
 with their own bedding. Adam and Benoit were left to fol- 
 low with the Indians. They encamped on the Grassy-Lake 
 Portage, having walked about nine miles, principally on the 
 Yellow-Knife River. It was open at the rapids, and in these 
 places they had to ascend its banks, and walk through the 
 woods for some distance, which was very fatiguing, espe- 
 cially to Dr. Richardson, whose feet were severely galled in 
 consequence of some defect in his snow-shoes. 
 
 On the 11th, they arrived at Fort Providence, where Mr. 
 Weeks gave them every attention. Their joy and gratitude to 
 God for having again brought them to a place where all their 
 necessities could be relieved was great, and they united in ^ 
 thanksgiving and praises for their mercies. The stores and 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 535 
 
 presents for the Indians having partly arrived, Capt. Frank- 
 lin resolved to wait until Akaitcho and his party came up, 
 that he naight present them unto him himself. He arrived 
 on the 14th with all his people. Having smoked his pipe ac- 
 cording to their usual custom, and made a speech to Mr. 
 Weeks, he addressed himself to Captain Franklin, in 
 which he said he felt disappointed that so small a portion 
 of the present and supplies intended for them had arrived, 
 because, he said, his people looked to him to secure that re- 
 muneration to them which had been promised. That he did 
 not however intend to cast any blame on the captain and his 
 companions. " This world goes badly,'* he said, *' all are 
 poor ; you are poor, the traders appear to be poor, I and my 
 party are poor likewise ; and since the goods have not come 
 in, we cannot have them. I do not regret having supplied 
 you with provisions, for a Copper Indian can never permit 
 white men to suffer for want of food on his lands, without 
 flying to their aid. I trust, however, that we shall, as you 
 say, receive what is due next autumn ; and at all events," 
 he added, in a tone of good humour, " it is the first time 
 that the white people have been indebted to the Copper In- 
 dians." He was assured the supplies should certainly be 
 sent to him by the autumn, if not before. He then cheer- 
 fully received a small present for himself; and, although 
 they could give but a few things to those only who had been 
 most active in their service, the others, who, perhaps, 
 thought themselves equally deserving, did not murmur at 
 being left out in the distribution, 
 
 Akaitcho at the conclusion of the meeting desired that a 
 good report might be made to the people of England of the 
 conduct of his Indians, and he was assured that his kindness 
 should very soon be noticed. Such of the Indians as owed 
 the trading Company money, now received a discharge to 
 the amount of any articles which had been furnished to the 
 captain and his party, and a credit was entered on the Com- 
 pany's books to the value due to any others and to Akaitcho 
 
^'^r) franklin's journey 
 
 Having thus adjusted (heir engagements, the cap- 
 tain presented the band with a barrel of spirits mixed with 
 water, and they retired. 
 
 Having concluded all his engagements to their mutual sa- 
 tisfaction, Dr. Richardson, Captain Franklin and others of 
 the party left Fort Providence on the 15th, and proceeded 
 to Moose-deer Island. The party consisted of Belanger, who 
 had charge of a sledge laden with the bedding, and drawn by 
 two dogs, and the two cariole men, Benoit, and Augustus. 
 Previous to their departure, they had another conference 
 with Akaitcho, who, as well as the rest of his party, bade them 
 farewell, with a warmth of manner rare among the Indians. 
 
 The badness of Belanger's dogr., and the roughness of the 
 ice, impeded their progress very much, and obliged them to 
 encamp very early. They had a good fire made of the diift 
 wood, which lines the shores of this lake in great quantitiefs. 
 The next day was very cold. They began the journey at 
 nine in the morning, and encamped at the Big Cape, having 
 made another short march, in consequence of the roughness 
 of the ice. 
 
 On the 17tby they encamped on the most southerly of the 
 Rein-deer Islands. The night was very stormy, but th« 
 wind abating in the morning, they proceeded, and by sunset 
 reached the fishing huts of the Company at Stony Point, 
 Here they found Mr. Andrews, a clerk of the Hudson's Bay 
 Company, who regaled them with a supper of excellent 
 "white fish, for which that part of Slave Lake is particularly cele- 
 brated. They setoff in the morningbeforeday break, with seve- 
 ral companions and arrived at Moose- deer Island about one 
 in the afternoon, where they had the great satisfaction of again 
 meeting Mr. Back. Their mutual feelings on meeting again af- 
 ter having passed through such a series of sufferings was of the 
 most affecting kind . Mr. M*" Vicar, the chief resident at Moose- 
 deer Island received them with the greatest kindness, and by 
 his attention to their diet and their comforts, their health and 
 strength were fully restored. Here they remai»ed until the 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 537 
 
 middle of May, during which time the remainder of the stores 
 intended for Akaitcho and his people arrived ; and the cap- 
 tain had sufficient to add an additional present of ammunition 
 to every one who had assisted them. On the 26th they set 
 out for Fort Chipewyan, where they arrived on 2nd of June, 
 which they quitted on the 5th, and proceeded to Norway 
 House, which they reached on the 4th of July. At this place 
 they discharged the Canadian voyagers, sending them home 
 by canoes which were going to Montreal, On the 14th, they 
 arrived at York Factory, thus concluding a journey, perhaps 
 unparallelled in history, of upwards of five thousand five 
 hundred miles by land and water. 
 
 That this journey did not attain all its objects must be ad- 
 mitted, yet it made an important addition to the northern 
 boundaries of America ; and not only established the fact of 
 an ocean on that side, but ascertained its latitude. Captain 
 Franklin's expedition also threw much light on arctic disco- 
 very, which must be of great service in all new attempts to 
 reach the North Pole. 
 
 The importance of having an overland expedition at the 
 same time as one by sea for the Arctic Regions, had so 
 strongly impressed itself on the British government, that on 
 Captain Parry sailing again in 1824 to those regions, where 
 
 " Pale suns unfelt at distance roll away. 
 
 And on the impassive ice the lightnings play/' 
 
 It was determined that Captain Franklin should follow in the 
 spring, and renew his arduous task of traversing those bleak 
 and inhospitable regions to the northern shores of America. 
 Captain Franklin was accompanied by Dr. Richardson, his 
 former travelling companion, Mr. Drummond, a young bo- 
 tanist, and others. They sailed from Liverpool in February 
 1825, for New York ; and thence proceeded, by the Lake 
 Erie Canal, to Lac Huron, where the party, about thirty in 
 number, arrived on the 22nd of April, 1825. 
 
 From Montreal to Lac Huron, no incident worth record- 
 P. V. 23. Z z 16 
 
63S fuanklin's journky 
 
 in^ occurred ; but the journey was performed with ease and 
 expedition ; every man enjoyed excellent health and daily 
 felt his spirits becoming more buoyant from the continued 
 calmness and fineness of the weather. On the 24th of April, 
 the party were to embark in two large canoes for Fort Wil- 
 liam, traversing in their course the upper end of Lac Huron, 
 Sault St. Marie and Lake Superior. From thence they pro- 
 ceed in four canoes by Lac la Pluie, Lake Winipeg, Cum- 
 berland House, and Methy-portage, to Athabasca, where 
 they expect to overtake three boats with their crews of 
 Argylshire-men who ware sent out from England in the sum- 
 mer of 1824, and have had ample time to forward the in- 
 struments and luggage entrusted to their care. 
 
 In their voyage through the principal lakes, the travellers 
 will be conveyed in American steamboats, and when that ac- 
 commodation ceases, they will procure, as formerly, the ser- 
 vices of stout Canadian boatmen. One of the greatest evils 
 attejidant on this expedition, is, that it requires upwards of 
 twelve months to convey them to what may be called the 
 starting point of discovery. And however heavily the time 
 may hang on their hands, they must patiently wait the tardy 
 lapse of an Arctic winter, and even after the sun begins to 
 peep above the horizon, there are not above six or eight 
 weeks, during which they can travel with any thing like 
 safety. 
 
 Fort Reliance, situated on the shore of the Great Bear 
 Lake, and the most northern piece of masonry in the world, 
 was expressly built for the safety and comfort of the travel- 
 lers, and will terminate their wanderings for the first season. 
 This spot they expect to reach by the end of September, and 
 io the spring Captain Franklin and his old companion, Mr. 
 Back, who goes out on promotion, with one half of the party, 
 will proceed down Mackenzie's River, and from thence ex- 
 plore the "coast to the westward, as far as Icy Cape and 
 Behring's Straits. Here Captain Beechy, who sailed in the 
 Blossom on the 21st of May 1825, is to endeavour to join 
 
TO THE POLAR SEA. 539 
 
 Captain Franklin, and after rendering him every assistance^ 
 is to pursue his exploratory investigations in such parts about 
 Behring's Straits as are imperfectly known. Every thing 
 that can contribute to the success of these several expedi- 
 tions and add to the comfort, or rather lessen the privations 
 of the enterprising navigators who have undertaken them, 
 has been done by government ; they are accompanied also by 
 the prayers and wishes of every Briton, while neighbouring 
 nations look on their efforts with admiration and anxiety. 
 From their known talents and ardent zeal every thing is to bo 
 hoped ; and although 
 
 " 'Tis not in mortals to command success. 
 Yet they'll do more— they'll deserve it." 
 
 Captain Franklin was married to Miss Eleanor Porden, 
 a lady of poetical talents of the highest order, the daughter of 
 William Porden, Esq. the arcnitect who erected the king's 
 stables at Brighton, Eaton Hall, the seat of Lord Grosvenor, 
 and other buildings which placed his name high in his pro- 
 fession. At the age of twenty, Miss Porden, who from child- 
 hood discovered a genius for poetry, published a poem in six 
 cantos, entitled the ** The Veils, or the Triumph of Con- 
 stancy." The union of poetical grace and scientific intelligence 
 in this poem excited much admiration, and in three years af- 
 terwards it was followed by " The Arctic Exped.tion,'* an in- 
 teresting poetic tribute to the gallant adventurers Captains 
 Ross andBuchan, and Lieutenants Parry and Franklin, then 
 engaged in one of the most perilous enterprises by which the 
 present age has been distinguished. The opening of the 
 poem had a pretty allusion to the labours of the voyagers — 
 
 " Sail, sail adventurous barks ! go fearless forth. 
 Storm, on his glacier seat, the misty North, 
 Give to mankind the inhospitable zone. 
 And Briton's trident plant in seas unknown. 
 Go! sure wherever science fills the mind. 
 Or grief for man long sever'd from his kinvl 
 
540 FUANKLINS J- UrnEY 
 
 The anxious nations watch th« changing gales. 
 And prayers and blessings swell your flagging saiU/' 
 The publication of this poem is said to have led to her ac- 
 quaintance with Captain Franklin. Miss Porden afterwards 
 published a very spirited Ode on the Coronation of his Ma- 
 jesty George the Fourth ; but her grand work was " Coeur 
 de Lion^ of the Third Crusade,** a poem in sixteen cantos, 
 and one of the greatest efforts of a female pen in the annals 
 of English literature. 
 
 Jfi the month of August, 1823, Miss Porden gfave her hand 
 to Captain Franklin, to whom she had been some time en- 
 gaged> and who had then recently returned from the land 
 expedition employed to iissist in exploring the Polar Re- 
 gions. Happy^ but brief was their union. In the circum- 
 stances of Mrs. Franklin's death there was something un- 
 usually distressing. Constitutionally delicate, it has been 
 generally, though erroneously, understood, that the fatfjl 
 event was occasioned by grief at her husband's departure* 
 acting upon a previously debilitated frame. This, however'^ 
 Was not the case* 
 
 Mrs. Franklin entered with enefgy into the enterprising 
 spirit of her husband ; she earnestly wished him to repeat 
 the attempt^ hoping that he might accomplish the object so 
 much desired. With this anticipation she looked forward 
 to welcome his return ; but^ a pulmonary complaint, from 
 which she had suffered nearly two years, reached its crisis 
 about the time that Captain Franklin received his orders to 
 proceed. She expired at her house, Devonshire Street, on 
 ^he 22nd of February, aged 30, exactly one week after hav- 
 ing bidden her husband farewell^ leaving a daughter eight 
 months old. 
 
 Captain Franklin was promoted to the raiik of commander 
 m 1821, and to that of Post Captain in 1822. We trust 
 hiffher honours in his profession and the reward of his grate- 
 ful country fttill await him. 
 
'.■<>// 
 
 # 
 
541 
 
 BELZONrS TRAVELS 
 
 IN 
 
 EGYPT AND NUBIA, 
 
 &c. &c. 
 
 The Narrative of the Travels and Researches of Mr. Bel- 
 isoni have obtained a justly deserved attention among the 
 readers of the present day. In his introductory preface to 
 his own narrative he says, " I made my discoveries alone. 
 I have been anxious to write my book myself, though in so 
 doing the reader will consider me, and with great propriety, 
 guilty of temerity; but the public will perhaps gain in the 
 fidelity of my narrative what it loses in elegance. I am not 
 an Englishman, but I prefer that my readers should receive 
 from myself, as well as I am able to describe them, an ac- 
 count of my proceedings in Egypt, in Nubia, on the coast of 
 the Red Sea, and in the Oasis; rather than run the risk of 
 having my meaning misrepresented by another. If I am 
 intelligible, it is all that T can expect. I shall state nothing 
 but the plain matters of fact, as they occurred to me in these 
 countries, in 1815-16-17-18 and 19. A description of the 
 means I took in making my researches, the difficulties I had 
 to encounter, and how I overcame them, will give a tolerably 
 correct idea of the manners and customs of the people I 
 had to deal with." Much has been written on Egypt and 
 Nubia by the travellers of the last century, by Denon, and 
 the French s9avans, whose general account of these coun- 
 tries has. scarcely left any thing unnoticed ; and by Mr. 
 
542 . BELZONI*S TRAVELS 
 
 Hamilton, whose description is unimpeached, and by Mr. 
 Burckhardt, who was so well acquainted with the language 
 and manners of these people, that none of them suspected 
 him to be an European? His account of the tribes in these 
 countries is minutely correct, as well as his observations on 
 modern Egypt and Nubia in general. 
 
 No traveller had ever such opportunities of studying the 
 customs of the natives as were aflTorded to him, for none had 
 ever to deal with them in so peculiar a manner. His con- 
 stant occupation was searching after antiquities, and this led 
 him in the various transactions he had with them, to observe 
 the real characters of the Turks, Arabs, Nubians, Bedo- 
 weens, and Ababdy tribes. Thus he was very differently 
 circumstanced from a common traveller, who goes merely to 
 make his remarks on the country and its antiquities, instead 
 of having to persuade ignorant and superstitious people to 
 undertake a hard task, in labours, with which they were 
 previously totally unacquainted. 
 
 Mr. Belzoni was born in the city of Padua, was of a Ro- 
 man family, which had resided there for many years. The 
 state and troubles of Italy in 1800, which are too well 
 known to require any comment, compelled him to leave it, 
 and from that time he visited different parts of Europe, and 
 suffered many vicissitudes. The greater part of his younger 
 days he passed in Rome, the former abode of his ancestors, 
 where he was preparing to become a monk when the sud- 
 den entry of the French army into that city altered the 
 course of his education, and destined him to travel ever 
 since. His family supplied him occasionally with remittan- 
 ces ; but as they were not rich, he contrived to live on his 
 own industry, and the little knowledge he had acquired in 
 various branches. He turned his chief attention to hydrau- 
 lics, a science that he had learned in Rome, and which was 
 ultimately the cause of his going to Egypt. Iti 1803 he 
 arrived in England, and soon after married, and after re- 
 siding in it nine years, he formed the resolution of going to 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 543 
 
 the south of Europe. Takmg Mrs. Belzoni with him, he 
 visited Portugal, Spain, and Malta, from which latter place 
 they embarked for Egypt, where they remained from 1815 
 to 1819. Here he was the discoverer of many remains of 
 antiquity of that primitive nation. He opened one of the 
 two famous Pyramids of Ghizeh, as well as several of the 
 tombs of the kings at Thebes. Among the latter, that which 
 has been pronounced by one of the most distinguished 
 scholars of the age to be the tomb of Psammuthis, is at this 
 moment the principal, the most perfect and splendid monu- 
 ment in that country. The celebrated bust of young Mem- 
 non, now in the British Museum, was discovered by him, 
 and after an absence of twenty years, he returned to his 
 native land, and from thence proceeded to England. 
 
 On the 19th of May, 1815, Mr. Belzoni, his wife and an 
 Irish lad, named James Curtain, set sail from Malta, and 
 arrived at Alexandria on the 9th of June. The principal 
 cause of his going to Egypt was the project of constructing 
 hydraulic machines, to irrigate the fields, by a system much 
 easier and more economical than what is in use in that 
 country. On entering the harbour of Alexandria, the pilot 
 informed them that the plague was in the town. To an 
 Eiiropean who had never been in that country, this was 
 alarming intelligence, and wishing to have some information 
 concerning the state of the disease, Mr. Belzoni did not 
 land till the next day, when two European gentlemen came 
 alongside in a boat, and said that the plague was rapidly 
 diminishing. They then landed, but with much caution, and 
 proceeded to the French Occale, where they were to per- 
 form quarantine. Fortunately, St. John's day, which is the 
 5>4th of June, when the plague is supposed to cease, was 
 near. Some superstitious persons attribute this to the 
 power of the saint himself; but it is well known, that extreme 
 heat checks the plague in the same manner as the cold sea- 
 son ; and, that when the heat of summer is not so great as 
 usual, the plague lasts longer; while, on the other hand, 
 
544 
 
 when the cold season continues longer, the "plague comes 
 later 
 
 The Occale is an enclosure of several houses, so disposed 
 as to form a square. There is no entrance to the area of 
 the square but by the great gate, leading to a common stair- 
 case, above which a gallery leads to every house. In plague 
 time, the people of these habitations must communicate with 
 each other without touching; no provision can enter without 
 being passed through water, nor must bread be touched 
 whilst warm. The disease is so easily caught, that a piece 
 of thread blown by the wind is quite suflScient to infect the 
 whole country. Had it been known that they were ill, no 
 one would have approached them, except the Arabs, who go 
 in case of sickness indiscriminately to every one; and are 
 thus likely to spread the plague, by giving it to those who 
 have it not. Many die the victims of neglect, merely because 
 every disease is taken for the plague; others are victims of 
 a different kind, of the atrocious, interested views of their 
 relatives, who, profiting by their death, may take what ad- 
 vantage they please, even by poison, as no investigation 
 takes place in any instance. " He died of the plague" is the 
 general cry, whatever may be the disease; and as several 
 hundreds perish daily, they are all carried away without dis- 
 tinction. 
 
 After the 24th of June, called the great St. John, the 
 plague nearly ceased, and desirous of reaching Cairo, they 
 hired a boat, in company with Mr. Turner, an English gen- 
 tleman, who was going up the Nile. They sailed on the 1st 
 of July, but owing to the contrary winds, were brought back 
 tke same evening. The next day they re-embarked, and 
 were then obliged to land at Aboukir, in consequence of 
 high winds, and visited the place where General Abercromby, 
 and many of the brave army under his command, had fallen 
 in war, and to the glory of their country. Several human 
 bones were scattered about. 
 
 Continuing their voyage the same day, they entered to 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA* 545 
 
 mouth of the Nile, aud landed at Rosetta ; and in four days 
 more arrived at Boolak, within a mile of Cairo. The bustling 
 scene here was most striking. The majestic appearance 
 of Turkish soldiers in various costumes, without regularity 
 or discipline, Arabs of many tribes, boats, canjeas, camels, 
 horses and asses, all in motion, presented a striking pictuie. 
 Mr. Belzoni landed, and went immediately to Cairo; and as 
 the holy fathers of the convent of Terrasanta could not re- 
 ceive women within their walls, they were accommodated 
 in an old house in Boolak, belonging to Mr. Baghos, to 
 whom Mr. Belzoni was recommended He was the princi- 
 pal interpreter of Mahomed Ali, and director of all foreign 
 affairs; a man of great acuteness of understanding, and so 
 well disposed towards strangers, particularly Europeans, 
 that it was soon arranged, that on a particular day he was to 
 be presented to his highness the Bashaw, to make a proposal. 
 
 The house they inhabited w as old and out of repair, all thef 
 windows were shut up with broken wooden rails; the stair- 
 case was in a wretched condition, and scarcely a step entire ; 
 the door was fastened simply by a pole placed against it, 
 having neither lock nor any thing else to secure the entrance. 
 There were many rooms in it, but the ceiling in all of them 
 was in a most threatening state. They bad mattresses aud 
 linen, otherwise they must have adopted the Arab method of 
 sleeping : as there are no chairs in this country, they sat on 
 the ground; a box and a trunk served as a table; fortimately, 
 they had a few plates, as well as knives and forks, which 
 they had provided to use in the boat; and James, the Irish 
 lad, bought a set of culinary utensils of pottery. Such were 
 their accommodations. 
 
 Mr. Belzoni look an opportunity of going to see the won- 
 der of the world, the pyramids, with Mr. Turner, who ob- 
 tained an escort of soldiers from the Bashaw to accompany 
 them. They went there to sleep, that they might a-^cend the 
 pyramid early enough in the morning to see the rising of the 
 
 P. V, 23 4 A 
 
&I6 BALZONl'S TRAVELS 
 
 »un; and accordingly were on the top of it long before tlie 
 dawn of day, . The scene was majestic and grand far beyond 
 description; a mist over the plains of Egypt formed a veil, 
 which ascended and vanished gradually as the sun rose and 
 unveiled to the view that beautiful land, once the site of 
 Memphis. The distant view of the smaller pyramids on the 
 south marked the extension of that vast capital; while the 
 solemn, endless spectacle of the desert on the west inspired 
 reverence for the all-powerful Creator. The fertile lands 
 on the north, with the serpentine course of the Nile, descend- 
 ing towards the sea; the rich appearance of Cairo, and its 
 numerous minarets, at the foot of the Mokatam mountain on 
 the east, the beautiful plain which extends from the pyra- 
 mids to that city ; the Nile, which flows magnificently through 
 the centre of the sacred valley, and the thick groves of palm 
 trees, altogether formed a scene, of which very imperfect 
 ideas can be given by the most elaborate description. Hav- 
 ing examined several of these mausoleums, they returned to 
 Cairo with the satisfaction of having seen a wonder, which 
 they had long desired, but never supposed they should 
 have the happiness to behold. 
 
 Soon after this Mr. Baghos introduced Mr. Belzoni to 
 the Bashaw, that he might come to some arrangement re- 
 specting the hydraulic machine, which he proposed to con- 
 struct for watering the gardens of the seraglio, and which 
 was in fact the main object of his visit to Egypt. As they 
 were proceeding towards the palace, through one of the 
 principal streets of Cairo, a brutal Turk struck Mr. Belzoni 
 so fiercely on the leg with his stirrup, that it tore away a 
 large piece of flesh. The blow was so severe, and the dis- 
 charge of blood so copious, that he was obliged to be con- 
 veyed home, where he remained under cure thirty days 
 before he could support himself on the wounded leg. When 
 able to leave the house, he was presented to the Bashaw, 
 who received him very civilly, but on being told of the 
 misfortune which had happened to him, contented himself 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. M7 
 
 with coolly observing, "that such accidents could not bo 
 avoided where there were troops."* 
 
 An arrangement was immediately concluded for erecting 
 a machine which was to raise as much water with one ox, as 
 the ordinary ones do with four. Mr. Belzoni soon found 
 however, that he had many prejudices to encounter, and 
 many obstacles to overcome, on the part of those who were 
 employed in the construction of the work, as well as of those 
 who owned the cattle engaged in drawing water for the 
 Bashaw's gardens. The fate of a machine which had been 
 sent from England, taught him to augur no good for that 
 which he had undertaken to construct. Though of the most 
 costly description, and every way equal to perform what it 
 was calculated to do, it had failed to answer thfe unreasonable 
 expectations of the Turks, because " the quantity of water 
 raised by it was not sufficient to inundate the whole country 
 in an hour, which was their measure of the power of an 
 English water-wheel." 
 
 While Mr. Belzoni resided at Cairo a revolution broke 
 out among the soldiers, and some of the troops pursued the 
 Bashaw to the citadel, whither he had retired for safety. 
 All the soldiers ran after him, but as to the rest of the people, 
 no one came out of their houses. All the Franks in their 
 quarter were alarmed, and prepared for defence, in case the 
 fixates should be attacked. Mr. Belzoni proceeded to the 
 house of Mr. Baghos, in the same quarter, as he had business 
 with him. He had not gone far, when he met a body of 
 armed soldiers running towards the centre of the town. 
 Advancing further, he heard several muskets discharged in 
 a street near, and many others at some distance: indeed 
 there was a continual firing kept up. On approaching the 
 Esbakie, he saw several soldiers running towards the serag- 
 lio, and others hastening towards him. When they came up 
 one seized the bridle of his donkey, while another took him 
 by the collar, and the rest were busied in rifling his pockets. 
 He bad fortunately but a few dollars in his possession* 
 
 4A2 
 
54f> BELZONl'S TRAVELS 
 
 For several days they kept close in the bouse : during this 
 time, the soldiers plundered the shops in Cairo, and the 
 Bashaw sent the Syrian horse against them, now known 
 under the appellation of Tartoor. These were the only 
 troops faithful to him ; but being mounted, they could not 
 follow the Albanians, who were posted in ploughed fields 
 between Cairo and Boolak. One day the cavalry advanced 
 and the Albanians retired towards Boolak. The house in 
 which Mr. Belzoni resided wns so situated, that from tho 
 upper part of it he could see the firing of the troops en one 
 side, and on the other the confusion of the people, who had 
 taken to the boats, which were soon crowded with them, 
 and in the hurry many of them went adrift. There was a 
 universal cry among the people, and the troops advanced to 
 the very entrance of the town; but, fortunately, they were 
 prevented from coming in by the cavalry, who, by making 
 a circuit, had taken post on the road. The confusion con- 
 tinued in this manner for several days: at last, after having 
 plundered and ravaged Cairo at their pleasure, the troops 
 retired to their camps, and in a few days more matters were 
 arranged again. The discontented troops were all sent to 
 encampments in various stations, at a distance from Cairo, 
 and part towards Mecca; but the European exercise, to in- 
 troduce which was said to have been the cause of the revolt 
 of the troops, was wholly abandoned, and consigned to ob- 
 livion. Turks are averse to controul of any sort, and parti- 
 cularly to what is not the result of Mahommedan customs. 
 
 One of the buffoons of the Bashaw took it into his head 
 one day, for a frolic, to shave his beard ; which is no trifle 
 among the Turks, for some of them would sooner have their 
 head cut off than beard; he borrowed some Frank's clothes 
 of the Bashaw's apothecary, who was from Europe, and, 
 after dressing himself in European costume, presented him- 
 self as an European, who could not speak a single word 
 citber of Turkish or Arabic, which is often the case. Being 
 m the dark, the Bashaw took him for what he represerted 
 
IN EGYPT AND NtBIA. 549 
 
 himself to be, and sent iniraediately for the interpreter, wJjo 
 put some questions to him in Italian, which he did not 
 answer; he was then questioned in French, but no reply; 
 and next in the German and Spanish languages, and still he 
 was silent; at last, when he saw that they were all deceived, 
 the Bashaw not excepted, he burst out in plain Turkish, the 
 only language he was acquainted with, and his well known 
 voice told them who he was; for such was the change of his 
 person, particularly by the cutting off his beard, that other- 
 wise they could scarcely have recognised him. The Bashaw 
 was delighted with the fellow; and, to keep up the frolic, 
 gave him an order on the treasury for an enormous sum of 
 money, and sent him to the Kaciabay, to present himself as 
 a Frank, to receive it. The Kaciabay started at the immen- 
 sity of the sum, as it was nearly all that the treasury could 
 furnish ; but upon questioning this new European, it was 
 soon discovered who he was. In this attire he went home 
 10 his women, who actually thrust him out of the door; and 
 such was the disgrace of cutting oft' his beard, that even his 
 fellow buffoons would not eat with him till it was grown 
 again. 
 
 Having heard of electricity, the Bashaw sent to England 
 for two electric machines, one with a plate, the other 
 with a cylinder. The former was broken by the way, the 
 latter was dismounted. The physician of the Bashaw, an 
 Armiuian, did not know, though it was so easy a matter, how 
 to set it up. Mr. Belzoni happening to be at the garden 
 one evening, when they were attempting it, and could not 
 succeed, he was requested to put the several pieces toge- 
 ther, and having done so, ho made one of the soldiers mount 
 on the insulating stool, charged the machine, and gave the 
 Turk a good shock ; who, expecting no such thing, uttered 
 a loud cry, and jumped off much terrified. The Bashaw 
 laughed at the man's, jumping off, supposing his fright to be 
 a trick, and not the effect of the machine; and when told 
 ,that it was actually occasioned by the macliine, he affirmed 
 
550 BtLZONfS TRAVELS 
 
 positively that it could not be, for the soldier was at guch a 
 distance, that it was impossible the small chain he held in 
 his hand could have such power. Mr. Eelzoni then desired 
 the interpreter to inform his highness, that if he would mount 
 the stool himself, he would be convinced of the fact. He 
 hesitated for a while whether to believe it or not; however 
 he mounted the stool, the chain was put into his hand, and 
 he received a pretty smart shock. He jumped off, like the 
 soldier, on feeling the effect of the electricity; but imme- 
 diately threw himself on the sofa in a fit of laughter, not 
 being able to conceive how the machine could have such 
 power on the human body. 
 
 During Mr. Belzoni's stay at Soubra, a circumstance 
 occurred, which shewed plainly the country he was in, and 
 the people he had to deal with. Some particular business 
 calling him to Cairo, he was on his ass in one of the narrow 
 streets, where he met a loaded camel. The space that re- 
 mained between the camel and the wall was so little, that he 
 could scarcely pass; and at that moment he was met by a 
 Binbashi, a subaltern officer, at the head of his men. For 
 the instant he was the only obstacle that prevented his pro- 
 ceeding on the road, and he could neither retreat nor turn 
 round, to give him room to pass. The soldier seeing it was 
 a Frank who stopped his way, gave him a violent blow on 
 his stomach. Not being accustomed to put up with such 
 salutations, Mr. Belzoni returned the compliment with his 
 whip across the shoulders of the Binbashi; upon which he in- 
 stantly took his pistol out of his belt, and fired at the head 
 of Mr. Belzoni, singed his hair near the right ear, and killed 
 a soldier who at this time hafl come behind him. Finding 
 that he had missed his aim, he took out a second pistol, but 
 his own soldiers assailed and disarmed him. 
 
 A great noise arose in the street, and as it happened to be 
 Bear the seraglio in the Esbakie, some of the guards ran up, 
 but on seeing what the matter was, they interfered and 
 stopped the Binbashi. Mr. Belzoni mounted his charger, 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUfllA. 551 
 
 and rode off to Mr. Baghos, and told him what had happened; 
 they repaired immediately to the citadel, saw the Bashaw, 
 and related the circumstance to him. He was much con- 
 cerned, and wished to know where the soldier was, but ob- 
 served, that it was too late that evening to have him taken 
 up, however, he was apprehended the next day. This was 
 a lesson to Mr. Belzoni, who took good care in future, not 
 to give the least opportunity of the kind to men of that de- 
 scription, who can murder an European with as much in- 
 difference as they would kill an insect. 
 
 A charming young lady, about sixteen years of age, daugh- 
 ter of the Chevalier Booty, consul-general of Sweden, went 
 out of her house, in company with her mother, sister, and 
 some other ladies, to go to a bath. They formed a caval- 
 cade on asses, as is the custom of the country, and had not 
 proceeded far from their door when they met a soldier, (a 
 monster it should seem) who took a pistol from his belt, and 
 with the greatest coolness, fired and killed the young lad). 
 She was one of the most amiable creatures, both in manners 
 and person, that ever lived; and was most deservedly la- 
 mented by every one who knew her. To the honour of 
 Mahommed Ali, the monster was taken and executed, but 
 what satisfaction could this be to her afflicted parents. 
 
 The Arabs of Soubra exhibit as much festivity, when a 
 marriage of consequence takes place, as those of any of the 
 villages in Egypt. Early in the morning of the grand holi- 
 day, a high pole is planted in the centre of the place, with a 
 banner belonging to the village. A large assembly of people 
 gather under it, and preparations are made for an illumina- 
 tion with glass lamps, &c. The Arabs from other villages 
 come to the feast in procession, beating their tambourines, 
 and waving their flags. At some distance from the pole 
 they halt, and do not advance till a deputation is sent to 
 invite them to the feast. The elders of the village seat 
 themselves around and under the pole, and the strangers at 
 a iittle distance. One of the villagers near the pole begins 
 
552 fiELZONl's TRAVELS 
 
 ta sing, meanwhile the rest divide themselves into two 
 parties, forming two circles, one within the other, round the 
 pole and facing each other. By each man putting his arms 
 over his neighbour's shoulders, each circle forms a continuous 
 chain. The outer circle stand still, while the people of the 
 inner circle keep dancing and bowing in an orderly manner 
 to those in the outer. Thus they continue for three hours. 
 Some of the Hadgees, who are desirous of exhibiting their 
 powers in ceremonial devotion, go on for two hours, bending 
 their bodies nearly to the ground, and raising them up again 
 with such quickness, that it would be impossible for any one 
 who is not accustomed to it, to undergo such exertion a 
 quarter of an hour. All the women are at a distance oy 
 themselves, and among them is the bride. When the danc- 
 ing and singing is ended, they all sit dowii in large circles, 
 and a great quantity of boiled rice is brought to them in large 
 wooden bowls, besides a number of dishes of melokie and 
 bamies, (plants eaten in common by the Arabs as greens), 
 and three or four large sheep roasted, which are immediately 
 torn to pieces and devoured. For the drinking department 
 they have a number of boys, who are fully employed in 
 fetching water in large bardacks from the Nile. At night, 
 the pole and all the place around it is illuminated; the 
 people seat themselves in an orderly manner, in the form of 
 an amphitheatre, the women forming a part of the circle, 
 separate from the men. A band of tambourines and pipes 
 is continually playing, and the entertainment begins with 
 dancing, by two well-known and distinguished performers. 
 
 When the dancing is at an end, a sort of play is performed, 
 the intent of which is to exhibit life and manners, as in the 
 European theatres. The subject represented an Hadgee, 
 who wants to go to Mecca, and applies to a camel-driver to 
 procure a camel for him ; the driver imposes on him, by not 
 letting him see the seller of the camel, and putting a higher 
 price on it than is really asked, giving so much less to the 
 seller than he received from the purchaser. A camel is. 
 
IN KGYPT AND NUBIA. 5&3 
 
 at length seemingly produced, which consists of two men 
 covered over with a cloth and apparently hi waiting to set out 
 for Mecca. The Hadgee mounts and attempts to ride, but 
 finds the camel so bad a beast that he requires his money to 
 be returned. An altercation then arises between the driver 
 and the buyer, during which the real owner of the camel 
 appears, and on examination finds that the driver has substi- 
 tuted a camel of inferior value, and was thus defrauding the 
 buyer and seller. Upon this the driver is. severely beaten and 
 in conclusion runs away. The whole audience appeared well 
 pleased with the performance. 
 
 This was followed by another performance, describing a 
 European on his travels. Arriving at the house of a poor 
 Arab, he wished to obtain refreshment. The former made 
 an ostentatious parade of his wealth by ordering his wife to 
 kill a sheep, and this command slie seems to obey, but quickly 
 returns with an account that the flock had strayed to a great 
 distance and could not be found. Upon this information he 
 directs several fowls to be killed ; but she returns and states 
 that she cannot catch them. She is then sent to procure a 
 supply of pigeons, but every pigeon is absent from their roost. 
 At length, as their only remaining resource, the traveller is 
 provided with a meal of sour milk and bread, which con- 
 cludes the entertainment. 
 
 Mr. Bankes, jun, arrived soon after this period, as did 
 also the celebrated traveller Burckhardt, and Mr. Salt the 
 British consul. During an interval of a few weeks, in which 
 Mr. Bankes proceeded to Mount Sinai and visited other in- 
 tcrosiliig places, Mr. Belzoni had finished his water machine, 
 and every preparation being made, on a stated day the Ba- 
 shaw arrived from Alexandria and attended the exhibition of^ 
 the powers of the machine, accompanied by several persons 
 who were considered to possess a considerable acquaintance 
 with hydraulics. The principle of the machine was that of a 
 crane having a large tread wheel, in which an ox was to walk 
 and draw up more water than four oxen could accomplish on 
 P. V. 24. 4 B 
 
654 BEL2:0NI'S TRAVEr.« 
 
 the plans at that time adopted in tlie country. The machine 
 being put in motion, drew six times the quantity of water 
 which their own machines produced ; but a considerable deal 
 of envy and prejudice was manifested by the natives against 
 the improved method, and every impediment and objection 
 thrown in the way of its accomplishment. Mahomed Ali, the 
 Bashaw, could not but notice the prejudice entertained by 
 his people, and admitted that great improvement was effected, 
 for instead of six hundred oxen aud drivers being necessary 
 to procure water, it was evident that one hundred of each 
 would be sufficient. A circumstance however took place 
 which put a stop to the further prosecution of these plans. 
 
 The Bashaw took it into his head to have the oxen taken 
 out of the wheel, in order to see, by way of frolic, what ef- 
 fect the machine would have by putting fifteen men into it. 
 James, the Irish lad, entered with them : but no sooner had 
 the wheel turned once round, than they all jumped out, 
 leaving the lad alone in it. The wheel, overbalanced by the 
 weight of the water, turned back with such velocity, that 
 the catch was unable to stop it. Tlie lad was thrown out, 
 and in the fall broke one of his thighs. Mr. Belzoni stopped 
 the wheel before it did farther injury which might have been 
 fatal to him. 
 
 The Turks are strong believers in fatalism, and this acci- 
 dent was considered by them as so bad an omen, that accom- 
 panied by the prejudices which were manifested, the Bashaw 
 was prevailed on to abandon the use of this machine, and to 
 continue the use of those already worked in that country. 
 
 Being thus defeated in the further pursuit of the plan which 
 brought him to Egypt, and also deprived of that pecuniary 
 remuneration which he expected, as he received not the 
 money which had been agreed by the Bashaw to pay him, 
 his mind was led to the contemplation of other projects, and 
 hs felt particularly reluctant to leave a country abounding 
 with the grandest works of the ancients, and in the investiga- 
 tion of wluch lie felt peculiar delight. His finances however 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. iyoo 
 
 'jvere too circunuscribed to afford liim the opportunrty of pro- 
 reeding to any distance, especially as he was accompanied by 
 Mrs. Belzoni. 
 
 Having had several interviews with Mr. Burckhardt and 
 Mr. Salt while the machine was in progress, during which 
 their conversation often turned naturally on the antiquities by 
 which they were surrounded, the removal of the colossal bust 
 of Memnon to Great Britain had been started by Mr. Burck- 
 hardt as an object greatly to be desired. Being much dis- 
 posed to such pursuits, Mr. Belzoni often expressed before 
 them with what satisfaction he should like to undertake the 
 removal of that bust, and to further any efforts to send it to 
 the British Museum. These conversations however ended 
 without producing any decisive measures, and upon a full 
 consideration he at length resolved to trust to his own efforts, 
 and calculating that with economy he could make a voyage to 
 Assouan and back, he gave way to his enthusiastic love of 
 antiquities, and which he had cultivated in early life while 
 resident in Italy, he resolved to ascend the river Nile. 
 
 Having resolved as to his course, he communicated his 
 intentions to Mr. Burckhardt ; and on applying to the British 
 Consul to request him to procure a firman, or protection 
 from the Bashaw, he manifested great satisfaction. Mr. 
 Burckhardt was present at the time of his application to the 
 Consul, and they said that it was their wish to obtain tlM3 
 colossal head, and to make a present of it to the British 
 Museum. They requested Mr. Belzoni to undertake the 
 removal of it, and he promised to use his endeavours to effect 
 it, saying that it would afford him great pleasure in removing 
 it to that place. 
 
 In consequence of this interview the following plan of di- 
 rections for his conduct was given to him. 
 
 '* Mr. Belzoni is requested to prepare the necessary imple- 
 ments at Boolak, for the purpose of raising the head of a statue 
 of the younger Memnon, and carrying it down the Nile. He 
 will proceed as speedily as circumstances will allow, to ^ ioiit, 
 
 i ¥ 2 
 
566 UULZONl'S TllAVFLS 
 
 there to deliver his letters, prepared for that effect, to Ibra- 
 him Bashaw, or whoever may be left in the charge of the 
 government; and he will, at that place, consult with Doctor 
 Scotto on the subject of his further proceedings. He will 
 take care to engage a proper boat for bringing down the 
 head, and will request Mr. Scotto to provide him with a sol- 
 dier to go up with him, for the purpose of engaging the Fel- 
 lahs to work whenever he may require their assistance, as 
 otherwise they are not likely to attend to Mr. Belzoni's or- 
 ders ; and he should on no account leave Siout without an 
 interpreter. 
 
 ** Having obtained the necessary permission to hire work- 
 men, &c., Mr. Belzoni will proceed direct to Thebes. He 
 will find the head referred to on the western side of the river, 
 opposite to Carnak, in the vicinity of a village called Gornou, 
 lying en the southern side of a ruined temple, called by the 
 natives Kossar el Dekaki. To the head is still attached a 
 portion of the shoulders, so that altogether it is of large di- 
 mensions, and will be recognized — by the circumstances of 
 its lying on its back with the face uppermost — by the face 
 being quite perfect, and very beautiful — by its having, on one 
 of its shoulders, a hole bored artificially, supposed to have 
 been made by the French for separating the fragment of the 
 body — and from its being a mixed blackish and reddish granite, 
 and covered with hieroglyphics on its shoulders. It must not 
 be mistaken for another, lying in that neighbourhood, which 
 is much mutilated. 
 
 ** Mr. Belzoni will spare no expense or trouble in getting 
 it as speedily conveyed to the banks of the river as possible ; 
 and he will, if it be necessary, let it wait there till the river 
 shall have attained sufficient height, before he attempts (o 
 get it into the boat. But, at the same time, he is requested 
 not to attempt removing it, on any account, if he should 
 judge there would be any serious risk of either injuring the 
 head, of burying the fiice in the sand, or of \v^' ^ it in the 
 Nile. If, on arriving at the ground, he should perceive 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 557 
 
 that bis means are inadequate, or that the difficulties of the 
 undertaking, from the nature of the ground, or other causes, 
 are likely to prove insurmountable, he will, at once, relin- 
 quish the enterprise, and not enter into farther expense on 
 that account. 
 
 ** Mr. Belzoni will have the goodness to keep a separate 
 account of the expenses incurred in this undertaking, which, 
 as well as his other expenses, will gladly be reimbursed ; as, 
 from the knowledge of Mr. Belzoni*s character, it is confi- 
 dently believed they will be as reasonable as circumstances 
 will allow. 
 
 '* The boat meant to carry the head should be hired for a 
 sufficient time to allow of its being carried directly down to 
 Alexandria ; but, on the way, Mr. Belzoni will not fail to 
 stop at Boolak for further instructions. 
 
 " If Mr. Belzoni should ascertain the certainty of his being 
 able to accomplish his purpose, he is requested immediately 
 to dispatch an express with the gratifying intelligence to 
 Cairo. •* Henry Salt." 
 
 Mr. Salt requested that Mr. Belzoni should not confine his 
 efforts to the obtaining the bust of Memnon ; but desired he 
 would purchase any other productions of antiquity which he 
 might see eligible, and furnished him with money to enable 
 him to accomplish it. 
 
 All things being now ready, on the 30th of June lbl6, he 
 quitted his residence at Boolak in the suburbs of Cairo ac- 
 companied by his wife, and the Irish lad ; he also took with 
 him an interpreter who had formerly been in the French 
 army. On the 5th of July they arrived at Manfalut, where 
 he met Ibrahim, Bashaw of Upper Egypt, the son of Maho- 
 met Ali, on his way to Cairo. The Bashaw was accompanied 
 by Mr. Drouetti, formerly consul of the French government. 
 He gave Mr. Belzoni to understand that the Arabs resident 
 at Thebes, whither he was now proceeding, were too idle 
 a people to be prevailed on to assist in raising the bust of 
 Memnon, The Bashaw made Mr. Belzoni a present of the 
 
f)58 • BKLZONI'S TRAVKLS 
 
 granite cover of a sarcophagus which the Arabs had disdo- 
 vered in one of the tombs ; and said that his people had been 
 employed in endeavouring to get the sarcophagus out but 
 without success, and told Mr. Belzoiii he was welcome to 
 procure it for himself. Having thanked the Bashaw, Mr. 
 Belzoni proceeded on his journey. 
 
 On the 6th, in the afternoon, he arrived at Siout. The 
 Defterdar Bey was not there, but was expected in two 
 or three days. Mr. Belzoni waited upon iMr. Scotto, the 
 physician of Ibrahim Bashaw, to whom he was referred fort 
 information respecting boats, carpenters, &c. Upon intro- 
 ducing the matter to Mr. Scotto, he made many difficulties : 
 first, about obtaining permission to have the necessary work- 
 men ; then there were no boats to be had ; and next, the 
 bust was a mass of stone not worth the carriage : at last, he 
 plainly recommended him not to meddle in the business, as 
 he would meet with many disagreeable things, and have 
 many serious obstacles to encounter. On the 6th day the Bey 
 arrived. He received Mr. Belzoni very politely, who pre- 
 sented a letter to him which Mr. Salt had received from Ma- 
 homet Ali himself, and he then furnished him with orders to 
 the Casheff of the province of Erments, to whom the Fellahs 
 of Thebes are subject. 
 
 Siout is the capital of Sais, or Upper Egypt. There is a 
 constant commerce kept up by the caravans from Darfoor. 
 Negroes, feathers, elephants' teeth, and gum, are the prin- 
 cipal articles that are brought to market. The viceroy of 
 Upper Egypt is always the first to select what he pleases from 
 the caravan ; for which he fixes his own price, and pays what 
 he likes. The rest is for the merchants, who dare not buy 
 any thing till the viceroy has made his choice. This place is 
 celebrated for the making of eunuchs. As soon as the ope- 
 ration is performed, the boys are buried in the ground, all 
 but the head and shoulders ; and many, who are not of strong 
 constitutions, die with the excruciating pain. It is calculated. 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 5r)9 
 
 that the operation, during its performance or afterwards, 
 proves fatal to two out of three. 
 
 The tyrannical power exercised by those in authority may 
 be imagined from the following circumstance. A man was 
 brought before the Bashaw charged with a particular crime. 
 Having put two or three questions as to the circumstances 
 of the case, he sent him to an inferior judge called a Cadi, 
 and with little previous ceremony he was condemned to be 
 tied to the mouth of a cannon, which blew the body into a 
 thousand pieces. On another occasion a soldier had con- 
 ducted himself in a violent manner towards two Arabs, by 
 whom in the contest he was afterwards killed. The Arabs 
 were seized and fastened to a pole and roasted tc deatb before 
 a fire. Actions so revolting to human nature cannot but 
 excite sentiments of commiseration in the minds of every 
 Christian, living under the regulated and defined principles 
 of a government conducted as in this happy land ; and must 
 lead every one who properly reflects, not to murmur at what 
 he may suppose to be erroneous and wrong in his own na- 
 tion, but to admire the tendency of the whole system of the 
 British government to deal faithfully, equitably and merci- 
 fully towards every subject, whatever their rank may be. 
 
 On the 15th Mr. Belzoni visited a convent of religious at 
 Acmin. Some of the fathers accompanied him on a visit to 
 the Casheff" or governor of the place, who being given to un- 
 derstand that Mr. Belzoni was in search of antiquities, said 
 that there were many in the neighbourhood, but that no 
 one could obtain them because they were under the 
 controul of a spirit whose enchantments it would be danger- 
 ous to meddle with. Mr. Belzoni in reply requested to have 
 the situation pointed out, and said that he felt himself su- 
 perior to the power of any magical opposition. The Casheff 
 however said, that if any one were to point out their situation, 
 the spirit would certainly inflict some punishment upon them. 
 The Casheff* further informed him that at the distance of a 
 few miles from Acmiu there was a rock, in which was for- 
 
560 BKLZONI'S TRAVELS 
 
 merly a gold ring of considerable size ; that various attempts 
 had beeu made to get it out, and cannon balls had been fired 
 against it to break that part of the rock without producing 
 any effect ; but that a person who was witnessing the attempt, 
 threw part of a cucumber which he was eating at the ring, 
 and it immediately fell out. The belief of such an absurdity 
 must shew in what a state of ignorance and fanaticism the 
 people of this country live, when even the governor was thus 
 blinded and prejudiced. 
 
 On the 19th, Mr. Belzoni arrived at the ruins of the temple 
 of Tentyra, situated about two miles from the river Nile. 
 The grandeur of the scene was impressive and filled the be- 
 holder with astonishment. The structure was in a state of 
 great preservation, and the harmonious proportion of the 
 various parts excited the most delightful feelings, and was 
 altogether a magnificent display of the talents and powers 
 of the ancients. It is supposed to have been erected n the 
 time of the first Ptolomy, the founder of the great Alexan- 
 drian libmry, so well known as one of the wonders of the 
 age. Denon, who accompanied Buonaparte and the French 
 army into Egypt, considered this spot as the sanctuary of 
 the sciences and of the arts. 
 
 The front is adorned with a beautiful cornice, and a frieze 
 covered with figures and hieroglyphics, over the centre of 
 which a winged globe is predominant, and the two sides are 
 embellished with compartments of sacrifices and offerings. 
 The columns that form the portico are twenty-four in number^ 
 divided into four rows, including those in the front. On en- 
 tering the gate the quadrangular form of the capitals strikes 
 the eye. At each side of the square there is a colossal head 
 of the goddess Isis with cows* ears. These heads are much 
 mutilated, particularly those on the columns in the front of 
 the temple facing the outside ; but notwithstanding the disad- 
 vantage, and the flatness of their form, there is a simplicity 
 in their countenance approaching to a smile. The shafts of 
 the columns are covered with hieroglyphics and figures, which 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 561 
 
 are in basso relievo, as are all the figures in the front and 
 lateral walls. The front of the door- way, which is in a straight 
 line wit3i the entrance and the sanctuary, is richly adorned 
 with figures of smaller size than the rest of the portico. The 
 ceiling contains the zodiac, inclosed by two long female 
 figures, which extend from one side to the other of it. The 
 walls are divided into several square compartments, each 
 containing figures representing deities, and priests in the act 
 of offering or immolatiijg victims. On all the walls, columns, 
 ceiling, or architraves, there is no where a space of two fe^t 
 that is not covered with figures of human beings, animals, 
 plants, emblems of agriculture, or of religious ceremony. 
 The inner apartments are much the same as the portico, all 
 covered with figures in basso relievo, to which the light enters 
 through small holes iij the walls : the sanctuary itself is quite 
 dark. In the corner of it is the door, which leads to the roof 
 by a staircase, the walls of which are covered with figures in 
 basso relievo. On the top of the temple the Arabs had built 
 a village, but it is all in ruins, as no one uow lives there. 
 Mr. Belzoni descended into some apartments on the east side 
 of the temple, and saw the famous zodiac on the ceding. On 
 the left, there is a small temple surrounded by columns. In 
 the inside is a figure of Isis sitting with Orus in her lap, and 
 other female figures, each with a child in her arms. The 
 capitals of the columns are adorned with the figure of Typhon. 
 The gallery or portico, that surrounds the temple, is filled 
 up with rubbish to a great height, and walls of unburnt bricks 
 have been raised from one column to another. Farther on, 
 in a right line with the propylaeon, are the remains of an 
 hypa^thral temple, which form a square of twelve columns, 
 cotmected with each other by a wall, except at the door- way, 
 which fronts the propylaeon. The eastern wall of the great 
 temple is richly adorned with figures in intaglio relevato : thev 
 are perfectly finished : the female figures are about four feet 
 high, disposed in different compartments. Behind the tem- 
 ple is a small Egyptian building, quite detached from the 
 R V. 24. 4 C 
 
502 bj:.lzoni's travels 
 
 large edifice, and from its construction appeared to have been 
 the habitation of the priests. At some distance from the 
 great temple are the foundations of another not so large as 
 the first. 
 
 Having continued the examination of these superb ruins 
 as long as time would permit, the party returned to the Nile. 
 Here a considerable number of persoi^s assembled and sur- 
 rounded the interpreter, a report having beconjie current that 
 he was a native of the plate ; and they manifested a deter- 
 mination not to permit him to be taken from them. It ap- 
 peared that at the time the French army lay here, a youth 
 belonging to this place accompanied them ; and the inter- 
 preter having in the course of his conversations with the 
 inhabitants stated that he had been in the French f^rmy, they 
 immediately concluded that this must be the same person. 
 Although he himself assured thein to the contrary they could 
 not be persuaded of their error, and declared that their coun- 
 tryman should not be taken from them, for that he had 
 passed already too much of his time among the Christian 
 dogs, an appellation which they affix to persons of the Chris- 
 tian religion. .The mother of the boy who had joined the 
 French army was fortunately still alive, although she resided 
 at the distance of several miles from them. However as no 
 other terms would pacify them, she was at length sent for, 
 and on her arrival together with another son, she very quickly 
 satisfied her neighbours that he was not her child, and he 
 was permitted to depart. During the time of this uncertainty 
 however, the interpreter was greatly caressed by the inha- 
 bitants, and liberjally supplied with fruits, milk, bread and 
 other refreshments, so that he had no occasion to regret the 
 intimacy which they insisted had formerly subsisted between 
 them. 
 
 On the 22nd, they arrived at Luxor, and for the first time 
 saw the ruins of Thebes. Of the magnificence and splendor 
 of the buildings here presented to the eye of the beholder, 
 no modern buildings are capable of conveying a just idea. 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 668 
 
 Juch is the difference, not only in magnitude, but in form, 
 proportion, and construction, that even the pencil can con- 
 vey but a faint idea of the whole. It appeared like entering 
 a city of giants, who, after along conflict, were all destroyed, 
 leaving the ruins of their various temples as the only proofs 
 of their former existence. The temple of Luxor presents to 
 the traveller at once, one of the most splendid groups of 
 Egyptian grandeur. The extensive pfopylaeoii, with the two 
 obelisks, and colossal statues in the froiit ; the thick groups 
 of enormous columns; the variety of apartments and the 
 sanctuary it contains ; the beautiful ornaments which adorn 
 every part of the walls and columns; the battles on the pro- 
 pylaeon, described by Mr. Hamilton ; cause in the astonishi-d 
 traveller an oblivion of all that he has seen before. On the 
 north side of Thebes the towering remains that project a 
 great height above the wood of palm trees, will call his atten- 
 tion to such an assemblage of ruins of temples, columns, 
 obelisks, colossi, sphynxes, portals and other astonishing 
 objects, as will be at once beyond the possibility of 
 description. On the west side of the Nile, the temples 
 ofGournou, Memnonium, and Medinet Aboo, attest the 
 extent of the great city on this side. The unrivalled colos- 
 sal figures in the plains of Thebes, the number of tombs 
 excavated in the rocks^ those in the great valley of the 
 kings, with their paintings, sculptures, mummies, sarcho- 
 phagi, figures, &c» are all objects of the greatest admiration ; 
 and the traveller will be led to wonder how a nation, which 
 was once so great as to erect such stupendous edifices, could 
 so far fall into oblivion, that even their language and writings 
 are now totally unknown. 
 
 Having taken a view of the various other objects which 
 arrest the attention of the traveller arid man of taste, they 
 examined the colossal bust that was intended to be removed. 
 Fourteen poles had been brought from Cairo to lay the bust 
 on, and part of them were formed into a kind of car, on 
 which it was to be placed. Being at this time far distant 
 
 1 C 2 
 
564 BBLZONl'S TRAVR1.S 
 
 from the boat which had brought them up the Nile, they 
 took up their residence in a portion of the buildings with 
 which they were surrounded. Mrs. Belzoni, who accom- 
 panied her husband, manifested a disposition to conform to 
 the privations and indifferent accommodations which pre- 
 sented themselves, with as great a readiness as her husband. 
 The time was now approaching when the Nile annually inun- 
 dates the country, and it would in that case have been impos- 
 sible to remove the bust this season ; and this induced Mr. 
 Belzoni to use every effort to quicken the Conveyance of the 
 bust. 
 
 On the 24th of July, he went to the Cacheff of Erments 
 to obtain an order to the Caimakan of Gournou and Agalta 
 to procure eighty Arabs^ to assist in the removal of the bust 
 of youtig Memnon. He received him with that politeness 
 which is peculiar to the Turks, even when they do not mean 
 in the slightest degree to comply with a person's wishes, and 
 which often deceives a traveller, who only en passant takes 
 coffee, smokes his pipe, and goes away. There are exceptions 
 among them, as there are among the Christians of Europe c 
 but in general the protestations of friendship and partiality 
 for a person, whom they never saw before, is so common 
 among them, that at last it becomes a matter of course ; and 
 no reliance is placed on it, except by those who are unac- 
 quainted with the customs of the country. 
 
 He promised to do every thing in his power to get the Arabs 
 to work. Mr. Belzoni told him he relied on his word, and 
 gave him to understand, that if he behavea in a manner 
 conformably to the orders of the Bashaw, he would receive a 
 present accordingly. 
 
 All the promises made by the Cacheff were only so many 
 attempts to deceive. Several fellahs, or persons of the la- 
 bouring class, might have been procured, but they dared not 
 assist without permission from the Cacheff or some person 
 in authority, however desirous they might be of earning 
 money. After repeated efforts and solicitations, tha Cacheff 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 565 
 
 did, ou the <^th, send a few men to aid him iu his attempt. 
 Mr. Belzoni agreed to pay them thirty paras a day, which 
 sum was about the value of four-pence halfpenny of British 
 Dioney. This beinj^ considerably more than the wages 
 usually paid, many more fellahs entered upon the work. 
 The car which was built for the conveyance of the colossal 
 bust being now ready, the work began. Upon seeing it 
 move they all gave a loud shout, and said some spirit moved 
 it ; and noticing that Mr. Belzoni was making marks as they 
 supposed, he being at this time writing, they all concluded 
 that by some talismanic charm he had caused the head to 
 move,, and did not believe it to be the effect of their own 
 efforts. By means of four leavers he raised the bust, so as 
 to leave a vacancy under it to introduce the car; and, after 
 it was slowly lodged on this, the car was raised in the front, 
 mth the bust on it, so as to get one of the rollers underneath. 
 The same operation being performed at the back, the colos- 
 sus was readily pulled up. Men were stationed with levers 
 each side of the car, to a.^sist occasionally, if the -colossus 
 should turn to either side. In this manner he kept it safe 
 from falling, and by this means removed it the distance of 
 several yards from its original place. 
 
 Mr. Belzoni now sent an Arab to Cairo with intelligence 
 that the bust had begun its journey towards Great Britain. 
 When the Arabs found that they received money for the 
 removal of what appeared to them only a stone, they 
 entertained the opinion that it was filled with gold in the 
 inside, and that a thing of such value ought not to be taken 
 away. The heat of the climate, the exposure to the sun, 
 and the efforts made by Mr. Belzoni himself, so overpowered 
 him, that he was obliged to take a day to rest and recover 
 his strength. They continued daily moving the head towards 
 the Nile, advancing sometimes one hundred yards and 
 sometimes two or three hundred yards each day, until the 
 the 5th of August, by which time they were neai*ly advanced 
 over the lands, which if inundated by the overflowing of the 
 
566 BKLZONl'S TRAVlilLb 
 
 river wonld have stopped their progress for that season. 
 Anticipating a successful end to his efforts, Mr. Belzoni was 
 surprised to find, on the morning of th^ sixth, that none of 
 the fellahs came to his assistance. The persons who had 
 been left during the night to guard the head, informed him 
 that the Caimakan, or head officer of the neighbourhood, had 
 forbidden the fellahs to work any longer for the Christian 
 dogs. The spot where the head lay being expected to be 
 under water in a very few days; and in this case, inde- 
 pendent of being obliged to wait till another season, the 
 liead would naturally be sunk deep into the earth or mud. 
 Finding that the Caimakan was gone to Luxor, he set out 
 to find him, accompanied by a Janizary whom he kept in his 
 service. Having found him, the Caimakan treated him with 
 great insolence ; and hoping by long forbearance to concili- 
 ate him, Mr. Belzoni restrained his anger and shewed a 
 spirit of submission and conciliation which only increased 
 the haughty demeanour of the Caimakan. Presuming on 
 Mr. Belzoni's forbearance, he attempted to put his hands on 
 him, which he resisted. He then became more violent, and 
 drew his sword. Having received a good lesson at Cairo 
 from another Albanian like himself, Mr; Belzoni gave him 
 no leisure to execute his purpose, but instantly seized and 
 disarmed him, placed his hands on his stomach, and made 
 him sensible of his superiority, in point of strength, by keep- 
 ing him firm in a corner of the room. The pistols and sword, 
 which he had thrown on the ground, were taken up by the 
 Janizary ; and after giving the fellow a good shaking, Mr. 
 Belzoni took possession of them, and told him, that he 
 should send them to Cairo, to show the Bashaw in what 
 manner his orders were respected. The Caimakan followed 
 him towards the boat, and was no sooner out of the crowd 
 than he began to be quite humble, and talk of matters as if 
 nothing had happened, He then said, that the order he had 
 given to the fellahs not to work he had received from the 
 Cachcft' himself, and it could not be expected, that, beings 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 567 
 
 only a Ca'makan, he could disobey his superior. It is in 
 this way only the true character of these people can be 
 known. 
 
 Mr. Belzoni then hastened to Erments to the Cacheff, 
 who had many of his principal officers, and several Hadgees 
 and Santons at dinner with him, it being the time of Rama- 
 dan. The custom of these Turkish travellers, at this season, is 
 to live at great men's tables. There were about thirty. The 
 dinner was prepared in a field before the house, as no room 
 within it could contain so many persons. An old carpet, 
 about twenty feet long and three wide, was spread on the 
 ground. They were just going to begin their repast, the 
 hour of dining being always a little after sunset during the 
 festival of Ramadan, as they are then not allowed to eat till 
 tlie sun has wholly disappeared. The Cacheff received him 
 very politely, and invited him to dine. Accordingly they 
 sat all round the carpet, on the ground. The Turkish 
 cookery does not always suit an European palate ; but there 
 are a few dishes, that are equally agreeable with our own ; 
 particularly mutton roasted on a wooden pole, at a wood fire. 
 They have a particular way of cooking it, putting it on the 
 fire immediately after it is killed, and before it has lost its 
 natural warmth ; and in this way it has a particular flavour, 
 quite agreeable to the taste. The soldiers and Hadgees 
 tucked up their large sleeves, and with naked arms dipped 
 the fingers of their right hands into the various dishes. They 
 never employ the left hand in eating, nor do they eat much 
 out of one dish, but taste of all that are within their reach. 
 They always finish their dinner ^ith pilau, and seldom drink 
 while eating. They wash immediately after, and pipes and 
 coffee being served all round, they begin to converse on their 
 usual topics, horses, arms, saddles, or dress. 
 
 At a proper opportunity he requested the Cacheff* to give 
 an order for the fellahs to proceed with the operations the 
 next morning. He answered with indifference, that they 
 must work in the fields for the Bashaw, and that he could 
 
568 BELZONl'S TRAVELS 
 
 not spare one ; but that, if Mr. Belzoni would wait till the 
 next season, he might have as many as he liked, Mr. Bel- 
 zoni told the CachefF that he should immediately proceed to 
 Luxor to obtain some helpers, and then the Gacheff would 
 lose the merit of his assistance. Among other things he ob- 
 served that he had sent to Cairo for a very handsome pair 
 of pistols which he intended to present to him. In an in- 
 stant the Cacheff declared th&* he should have his request, 
 and directed a firman or order t^ be made out, and which he 
 instantly signed, and Mr. Belzoni took his leave. 
 
 Having given the firman to the sheik or officer, the fellahs 
 were soon ready to their work, and on the 8th they had pro^ 
 ceeded so far that no danger of delay would arise from the 
 overflowing of the Nile ; and on the 12th they arrived on the 
 banks of that river. Besides their promised payment he 
 gave the Arabs a bakshis, or present, of one piastre each, 
 equal to sixpence English, with which they were exceed- 
 ing'y pleased. No labour hardly can be compared to their 
 exertions ; the hard task they had to drag such a weight, 
 the heavy poles they were obliged to carry to use as levers, 
 and the continual replacing the rollers, with the extreme 
 heat and dust, were more than any European could have 
 withstood : but what is still more remarkable, during all the 
 days of this exertion, it being Ramadan, they never ate or 
 drank till after sunset. 
 
 Mr. Belzoni now sent a courier to Cairo to inform the 
 English consul of his arrival on the banks of the Nile, and 
 re .uesting him to send a boat proper to convey the colossus 
 down, as none were then to be procured in Upper Egypt. 
 As it would be several days before the messenger returned, 
 Mr. Belzoni resolved to take the opportunity for an excur- 
 sion up the Nile. Hitherto he had ahvays appointed two 
 persons at all times to remain with the bust; he now, how- 
 ever, surrounded it also with an embankment of earth for 
 greater security, and then sending his Irish lad to Cairo, and 
 discharging the carpenter, for whose service he had no 
 
IN F.GYPT AND NUBIA. 561) 
 
 longer any occasion, he set out accompanied by one Janizary 
 and the interpreter. On the second day they arrived at 
 Esne, where he was introduced to Khalil Bey, a governor 
 of part of Upper Egypt. He was seated on a sofa made of 
 earth, which was covered with a fine carpet, and satin cu- 
 shions, and was surrounded by a number of his officers. As 
 it might be possible that Mr. Belzoni would proceed into 
 Nubia, he obtained from Khalil Bey a letter to Osseyn 
 CachefT, a prince in Nubia. Some conversation afterwards 
 took place on the difficulties he would have to surmount, 
 and persons he might probably meet with. He then took 
 coffee and smoked a few pipes ; after which he took his leave 
 and proceeded to the boat. 
 
 On the 20th they passed Elethias vwth a strong wind, and 
 arrived at Edfu. The temple here m^y be compared with 
 that of Tentyra in point of preservation, and is superior in 
 magnitude. The propylaeon is the largest and most perfect 
 of any in Egypt : it is covered on all sides v/ith colossal 
 figures of intaglio r^levato, and coi^taius several apartments 
 in the interior, which receive light by square apertures in the 
 side. Here is one of those curious subjects of inquiry, which 
 have never yet been explained. The square holes, or win- 
 dows, viewed from the inside of the chambers, appear to have 
 been made for the purpose of giving light to these apartments, 
 or to hold some particular ornaments or emblems, placed in 
 them occasionally on festival days ; consequently, it might 
 be concluded that they were made at the same time with the 
 building ; yet, on the outside, these very windows come 
 in contact with the colossal figures which are sculptured on the 
 walls; and part of these appear as if cut off where the win- 
 dows have been made ; so that, from the appearance on the 
 outside, it is to be inferred thai these apertures were formed 
 after the building was finished. The pronaos is very wide, 
 and is the only one to be seen in Egypt in such perfection, 
 though completely encumbered with Arab huts. The portico 
 is also magnificent; but, unfortunately, three-fourths of it is 
 P. V?4 4D 
 
570 BELZONl'S TRAVELS 
 
 covered with rubbish. The Fellahs have built part of their 
 village on the top of it, as well as stables for cattle, &c. 
 The temple is surrounded by a high thick wall, which extends 
 from each side of the propylaeon, so as to inclose the whole 
 building. Not only the temple, but every part of the wall, 
 is covered with hieroglyphics and figures. On the side wall 
 of the pronaos is seen the figure of Harpocrates which is de- 
 scribed by Hamilton, seated on a full-blown lotus, with his 
 finger on his Rps, as in the minor temple at Tentyra ; and on 
 the west side of the wall is the figure of an unicorn. This is 
 one of the few figures of beasts to be observed in Egypt. The 
 elephant is to be seen only in the entrance to the temple of 
 Isis, in the island of Philoe ; the horse, as an hieroglyphic, 
 is on the northern exterior wall at Medinet Aboo ; and the 
 cameleopard is on the wall of the sekos of the Memnonium, 
 and on the back of the temple at Erments. On looking at 
 an edifice of such magnitude, workmanship, and antiquity, 
 inhabited by a half savage people, whose huts are stuck against 
 if, not unlike wasps' nests, and to contrast their filthy clothes 
 with these sacred images, that once were so highly venerated, 
 makes one strongly feel the difference between the ancient 
 and modern state of Egypt. The minor temple is but of 
 small dimensions. It had a portico in the front ; nothing of 
 which is to be seen but fragments of columns buried in the 
 rubbish. Some say that this temple was dedicated to Apollo ; 
 but there is as much reason to suppose that it was dedicated 
 to TyphoUi as that the temple at Tentyra was dedicated to 
 Isis. The square capitals on the columns at Teniyra are 
 adorned with heads of Isis ; and this is one of the principal 
 circumstances that indicate the deity to whom the temple 
 was dedicated. In the temple at Edfu the figure of Typhon 
 is placed on the capitals in a similar manner ; and though 
 there are representations of the beneficent deeds of nature on 
 the walls, these may have been placed there by way of con- 
 trast, to elucidate the power of the destroying god. Farther on 
 to the south is part of a building, which no doubt was a second 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 571 
 
 propylaeon, as it faces the one now standing. Farther still 
 IS a small temple, almost unnoticed by travellers, which has 
 an avenue oi' sphinxes leading in a right line towards the 
 great temple. The sphinxes, several of which our traveller 
 cleared from the surrounding sand, have a lion*s body and 
 female head as large as life. There are vast heaps of ruins 
 all round these temples, and many relics of antiquity are 
 probably buried there. 
 
 Arriving near Assouan, which stands on a liill, they went 
 to see the ruins of a convent, where they observed many 
 grottos, which had served as chapels for the Christian wor- 
 .ship. The convent was formed of several small arched 
 cells, separate from each other ; and commanded a very pleas- 
 ing view of the cataract, Assouan, and the lower part of the 
 Nile. One of the Arabian traditions relating to this place, 
 is worth notice r 
 
 There is in this spot, say the Arabs, great treasure, left by 
 iin ancient king of the country, previous to his departure for 
 the upper part of the Nile, on a war with the Ethiopians. He 
 was so avaricious, that he did not leave his family any thing 
 to live on; and he was in close friendship with the magician, 
 whom he appointed to guard his treasure till his return. 
 But no sooner was he gone, than his relations attempted to 
 take possession of the treasure : the magician resisted, was 
 killed in the defence of his charge, and changed to an 
 enormous serpent, which devoured all his assailants. The 
 king is not yet returned, but the serpent still keeps watch 
 over the treasure ; and once every night, at a particular po- 
 sition of the stars, he comes out of the caves, with a power- 
 ful light on his head, which blinds all that attempt to look at 
 it. He is of an enormous size; descends to the Nile, 
 where he drinks ; and then returns to his cave, to watch the 
 treasure till the king returns. 
 
 The Aga paid the party a visit, attended by his whole train 
 of courtiers, in their rags and finery. They were all clad in 
 their gala attii'e, as this was their grand feast of the Ra- 
 
 4 n 2 
 
572 KKLZONI'S TRAVELS 
 
 madan. The motley confused manner in which this e^reat 
 divan was decorated was curious; one had a new tunic of 
 their brown cloth, and a ragged turban; another had a 
 fine turban, and a ragged tunic; a third without turban or 
 tunic, had a fine red woollen shawl round his body ; the A ga 
 himself was uncommonly dirty and showy, being dressed in 
 green and red, and without a shirt on his back. He came 
 on board with all his suite. 
 
 Onthe28tb, they passed several ruins oil the bank of the 
 Nile. The Reis to whom the boat belonged, and the sailors, 
 went on shore at a village, leaving only Mr. and Mrs. Bel- 
 zoni and the interpreter in the boat. Sooft after they were 
 gone, some of the inhabitaiits came towards the boat and 
 appeared to examine it with close attention. After this 
 they all retired. Soon, however, a party were observed 
 approaching armed with offensive weapons. Alarmed rather 
 by their appearance, Mr. and Mrs. Belzoni and the inter- 
 preter armed themselves with pistols and stood upon their 
 guard. The natives entered their boat, and mad e towards 
 Mr. Belzoni, who by signs desired them to keep at a dis- 
 tance, as they understood not their language. Disregarding 
 his motions they came close, and he resisted the foremost 
 with one hand, while with the other he presented a pistol at 
 him, and gave him to understand that he would certainly fire 
 if he persisted in his attempt. This checked them for a time, 
 and the Reis and crew appearing in sight, thev thought 
 proper to withdraw. 
 
 On the 29th, landing at a place near which stood the 
 ruins of an ancient temple, they immediately entered it, but 
 on coming out they found themselves surrounded by a party 
 of the natives armed with offensive weapons. They de- 
 manded to be paid for permission to come out; but Mr. 
 Belzoni replied that he would not suffer money to be taken 
 from himself by such conduct, but that he would make them 
 ^uch presents as he thought proper if they did not oppose 
 him ; and instantly moving forward with a determined step. 
 
IN e:;ypt and nubia. 573 
 
 tliey gave way and let the party pass. The Dext morning 
 they proceeded to Gyrshe and entered a small temple, the 
 floors of which had mostly been dug up, probably in search 
 of treasure. The natives were rather rough in their manners, 
 but were easily satisfied with a piece of soap, a pipe of to- 
 bacco, and a few paras. Here they bought some gargadan, 
 a grain about the size of a small shot, which the Nubians use 
 as coffee. It is a good substitute where no coffee is to be 
 had, and is much cheaper. A little above this place is a 
 dangerous passage of the Nile, a chain of rocks running 
 across the river, and making it very alarming, when the 
 waters are low ; but as they were now high, it was passed 
 without danger. 
 
 On the 1st of September they arrived at Korosko. The 
 lleis caught some cameleons. These creatures feed on rite, 
 or on flies. They bit off" each others legs. They swim 
 faster than they can crawl. It was endeavoured to keep 
 them alive, but without success. On the 5th they arrived at 
 Deir, the principal town of Lower Nubia. The houses are 
 not more than ten feet high, and are built princip^My of 
 earth intermixed occasionally with stones. Mr. Belzoni 
 waited on Hassan Cacheff, the governor of the place, who 
 desired to know his business. He replied, that their party 
 were desirous of examining the antiquities of tlie country. 
 This the Cacheff" said would not be practicable, as at this 
 time they were at war with the people who occupied the 
 territories higher up the country. He made inquiry if any 
 presents were intended to be made to him, and being given 
 to understand that the party had but little, but that they 
 would spare him part of their store of coffee, soap and to- 
 bacco, and he appeared satisfied. He also gave the Cachetf a 
 large looking glass with which he appeared to be highly 
 pleased. There were several of his people who had not seen 
 a looking-glass before, and it astonished them greatly. The 
 Cacheff* was never tired of admiring his bear-like face ; and 
 all his attendants behind him strove to get a peop at their 
 
574 belzonTs tka\ iu,s 
 
 own cliocolate beauty, laughing, and much pleased with it. 
 The Cacheff gave it, not without fear, to one of them, with a 
 strict charge to be careful not to break it. 
 
 The Esquimaux are said to be very filthy in their food 
 but these people were not unlike them in that respect. I 
 they killed a sheep, the in trails were opened, and pieces were 
 dipped into the water and eaten raw. The head and feet 
 with the skin on, wool, hoofs, and all, were put into a pot 
 to be half-boiled, when they drank the broth, and devoured 
 the rest. 
 
 On reaching Faras, Chey went to see the temples of 
 Ybsambul. Crossing the Nile exactly opposite, they had an 
 opportunity of examining and having full views of them at a 
 distance. In the front of the minor temple are six colossal 
 figures, which make a better appearance at a distance than 
 when near. They are thirty feet high, and are hewn out of 
 the rock ; as is also the large temple, which has one figure of 
 an enormous size, with the head and shoulders only pro- 
 jecting out of the sand. The sand from the north side, 
 accumulated by the wind on the rock above the temple, and 
 which had gradually descended towards its front, choked the 
 entrance, and buried two thirds of it, so that the hope of 
 opening its entrance vanished ; for the amazing accumulation 
 of sand was such, that it appeared an impossibility ever to 
 reach the door. ** 
 
 The Cacheff* exercises the most tyrannical authority. He 
 seizes on the property of any person at his pleasure, and the 
 life of his people is subject entirely to him. The son of the 
 Cacheff", who exercised authority here at this time, desired 
 to know what gave occasion to the visit of Mr. Belzoni and 
 his people. To this it was replied, that Mr. Belzoni had a 
 letter to his father from his uncle and that he came into the 
 country in search of ancient stones. He laughed, and said 
 that a few months before he had seen anotlier man, who 
 came in search of treasure, and took away a great deal of 
 gold in his boav ; and that he supposed they came for the 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 575 
 
 same purpose, for what could they want with stone, if it were 
 not that he was able to procure gold for them. 
 
 Mr. Belzoni proposed to have the place opened, and on 
 a promise, that, if he succeeded, the Cacheff should receive 
 a bakshis, he consented on his own part ; but still he said his 
 father remained to be persuaded,, and then people to be pro- 
 cured, who would work at such a place without fearing harm 
 from the devil. Mr. Belzoni told him, that those who worked 
 would gain money. ** What money do you mean?" said he, 
 '* money from Mahomet Ali, Bashaw of Cairo? What can 
 we do with it? we cannot buy any thing here, or at Don- 
 gola." It appeared that they had little notion of commerce, 
 and that what produce they carry to Cairo, Siout, or Esne, 
 they exchange for other articles, which they send to the- 
 southern country of Nubia, and never receive any money 
 for it. 
 
 Mr. Belzoni produced a piastre, and showed it to some of 
 the people : one of them took the piastre, and after looking 
 at it for some time, asked who would give any thing for 
 that small piece of metal. " Any one," said Mr. Belzoni, 
 ** will give a measure of dhourra for it, quite enough for a 
 man to eat in three days." " That may be so in your 
 country," replied he ; ** but here, no one will give six grains 
 of dhourra for so small a bit of iron." Mr. Belzoni told 
 him, if he went on board his boat, and presented it to any 
 one there, he would get for it dhourra enough to suffice him 
 for the time mentioned. Off he ran like a deer, and in a 
 few minutes returned with the dhourra folded in a rag 
 fastened to his waist. 
 
 Being very desirous to see the cataracts, Mr. and Mrs. 
 Belzoni, with the Janizary and interpreter, proceeded as 
 far as the day would permit, so as to return in proper time 
 to the boat at night. They had many views of the cataract, 
 and in different directions. It is a flat country, except a 
 few rocks that project here and there, particularly at the 
 fiver's side, but they are of small dimensions. Towards 
 
576 BELZONI*S TRAVELS 
 
 the desert they saw several wild antelopes, which kept at a 
 great distance. As the Nile was high, the current had not 
 so great a fall as when it is low ; but the cataract is not 
 navigable at any time of the year. The rock forming this 
 cataract differs from that of the first, for here is no granite, 
 but a kind of black marble quite as hard. 
 
 Early in the morning of the 14tb, they took on board 
 two men of the island, to pilot them towards the cataract as 
 far as the boat could go, and then to show the way to pro- 
 ceed. Several of the women came to see Mrs. Belzoni, 
 who made tbem presents of glass bead-necklaces, with 
 whicb they were wonderfully pleased ; though, as it is their 
 custom to take all, and give nothing, they did not even 
 return thanks for what they received; but took their pre- 
 sents, laughed, and ran away immediately. 
 
 The Cacheff's house was adorned with an old mat spread 
 on the ground as usual, a water jar, and a chain with two 
 hooks made in a particular manner. This was that same 
 Osseyn, who was one of the two brothers that caused Mr. 
 Burckhardt to return from Tinareh. He was about sixty- 
 eight years of age, five feet eleven inches high, stout and 
 robust, and able to support the charge he was born to hold. 
 He was surrounded by thirty men, all armed, some with 
 matchlock guns and long swords, and some vrith spears and 
 shields instead of guns. He was clothed in a long tunic 
 down to his feet, made of white woollen cloth, with a belt 
 round his waist, to which his sword, flint, and steel were 
 attached. Over his shoulder he had a long shawl, made of 
 the same stuff as the tunic, thrown partly over his head, so 
 as to cover it from the sun. He had also a red turban, and 
 on his feet a pair of ragged shoes* Notwithstanding his 
 dress, there was an air of superiority about him, which dis- 
 tinguished him at once above all the rest. It is worthy of 
 observation, that even among barbarians great respect is 
 paid to superiors ; and those very men, who would murder 
 a fellow creature in a difference about a few pipes of to- 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 577 
 
 bacco, almost tremble at the frown of a single and some- 
 times harmless old man. His inquiries concerning Mr. Bel- 
 zoni were very minute. Mr. Belzoni brought the affair of 
 the temple forward, which did not a little surprise him. He 
 said he knew the entrance into the temple very well ; that 
 the round ball on the large head was the door of the great 
 Dere, as he named it, and if removed any one could immedi- 
 ately enter. This round ball was no other than the globe on 
 the head of the hawk-headed Osiris, which stood over the 
 door. 4t first he stated the great difficulty, if not impossibi- 
 lity of opening this place ; and at last, when Mr. Belzoni 
 liad removed these obstacles, he received a promise, that if 
 Mr. Belzoni found in the temple any gold, he should have 
 half. To this Mr. Belzoni agreed, on condition that if he 
 found only stones, they should be all his own property. 
 The Cacheff immediately assented, for he said he wanted no 
 stones. 
 
 Next morning they went to Ybsambul. Having presented 
 tp Daoud the letter from his father, he sent for the men who 
 were intended to work. These people were complete sa- 
 vages, and entirely unacquainted with any kind of labour. 
 They had changed their minds since Mr. Belzoni was last there; 
 and, though he had the authority of the Cacheff, they would 
 not work. All persuasion was of no avail ; first, because 
 they were not inclined to such labour ; secondly, they did 
 not know the value of money, &c. At last Mr. Belzoni pre- 
 tended to give up his project, and go away. When the Ca- 
 cheff saw that he meant to go, and that he should lose many 
 a good present, he began to talk to them ; and at last, with 
 much difficulty, reduced the payment to one half of what they 
 had demanded before. On Mr, Belzoni agreeing to this, 
 they immediately insisted, that he should employ as many as 
 they chose. It was in vain that he stated, thirty were more 
 than sufficient for his purpose ; they would not hear of less 
 than an hundred. At last it was concluded, that he should 
 take forty men, who were to be at the bark before the sun 
 
 P V. 25. 4 E 
 
578 fiELZONTS TRAVKLS 
 
 rose next morning, as it was iienly two miles from the vil- 
 lage to the temple. 
 
 Rising early in the morning in expectation of seeing the 
 people whom he was to employ, Mv. Belzoni was surprised 
 that not one made his appearance. On going in search of 
 them, some few at last made their appearance. They pro* 
 tended that they had seen a Bedoween, and feared that they 
 should be killed or taken captives. They now proceeded to 
 remove the sand and earth which covered the front of the 
 temple, and expressed their expectation that much gold, and 
 many jewels would be found in the place. Concluding that 
 such an opinion would stimulate their efforts, Mr. Belzoni did 
 not in the least strive to alter their opinion. On the 19th 
 the Cacheff began to start many objections, and to state many 
 difficulties. He said the fellahs would not work, and that 
 they said it was useless for them to labour hard for a little 
 money. After listening to many other trifling excuses, it was 
 suggested to Mr. Belzoni that a handsome present to the 
 Cacheff would at once remove all the difficulties. Being 
 from past experience led to see that they never are satisfied 
 with whatever they receive, but were always contriving to 
 obtain more than they agree for, if previously paid, Mr. Bel- 
 zoni only assured the interpreter, that the Cacheff, and him- 
 self (the interpreter,) should receive a good bakshis (present,) 
 if they would serve him. At length several fellahs agreed 
 to work, and on the '20th they began again to proceed, al- 
 though the exertions made were not to much effect. The 
 Cacheff, with his attendants, came to see how they were 
 proceeding, and said he intended dining with them. Mr. 
 Belzoni said he should be glad of his company, but that he 
 had nothing except boiled rice, unless he would order his 
 people to kill a sheep, which Mr. Belzoni said he would 
 gladly pay for. They consulted about who could afford to 
 part with a sheep, and receive piastres in payment, and at 
 last the* order was given to an old man, who had five, which 
 w«s a greater number than any body else. When the sheep 
 
IN KGYPT AND NUBIA. 570 
 
 was brought, the difficulty was to fix the price of it. Being 
 the first ever sold for money in that place, to put a high price 
 on it would have increased the value of sheep in general, and 
 consequently would have been against the interest of the Ca- 
 chefF; for when he receives his revenue in these animals, he 
 sets them at a very low price, tliat he may have the more 
 given him. To estimate it at a low price would be worse 
 for it would be against them all in the exchange of sheep for 
 dhourra with the other villages. Finding it a dangerous point 
 to decide, it was at length resolved, that no price at all 
 should be put upon the sheep, but that the man should make 
 a present of it, and Mr. Belzoni should give any thing he 
 pleased in return. To prevent any standard being established 
 from what he gave the man, he paid him in soap, tobacco, 
 and salt. 
 
 At dinner the sheep was brought in pieces in two wooden 
 bowls, and the Cacheff and his attendants seated themselves 
 in a circle on the sand near the temple. The extremities of 
 their filthy hands were soon washed in the liquor, and in a 
 few seconds the whole was devoured. Soon after dinner 
 coffee was brought up from the boat, and Mr. Belzoni went 
 on board to take dinner with Mrs. Belzoni, who had boiled 
 rice and water for her fare, in preference to the chieftain*s 
 mess of mutton. In a short time the Cacheff approached, 
 and signified his wish to speak to him in secret. The great 
 secret was this : on the night before, as he stood on the bank 
 close to the boat, he saw him drinking a coffee cup of red 
 liquor that he poured out of a bottle ; and having inquired 
 what it was, was told it was nebet (wine). Now he had heard 
 that the wine of the English was much better than what they 
 made in their own country with dates; he wished, therefore, 
 to have some to drink also, but in a secret way. Mr. Bel- 
 zoni had a few bottles left, which were preserved for extra- 
 ordinary occasions ; and he sent the interpreter down to the 
 boat to fetch one. When the wine was first poured out into 
 a cup and presented to the Cacheff, he sternly looked at the 
 
 4 E 2 
 
580 BEi^ZONl'S TRAVELS 
 
 interpreter, and told him to drink first. The interpreter, 
 who was a Copt, and had been in the French array for seve- 
 nil years, did not want much persuasion to make a libation 
 to Bacchus ; so with a smile he soon convinced the Cacheffof 
 the purity of the contents of the bottle, and the CacheiF did 
 not hesitate to drink the next cup. At the first taste it did 
 not appear to him so strong as he had supposed ; but at last 
 he found it so goodj that in three days the scanty stock was 
 nearly finished. 
 
 Next morning (21st), the people took it into their heads 
 to come in such numbers, that Mr. Belzutii could not employ 
 them all, as the work was directed only to one point. There 
 was warm debating on the subject : but, as he told them 
 he would not spend one farthing more than he had promised 
 from the first, they agreed at last that the pay should be di- 
 vided amongst them all ; and thus, instead of forty men, he 
 had eighty for the sameprice, which was less than sixpence 
 a day. The anxiety to see the inside of the temple, and to 
 plunder all that it might contain, brought the chiefs now on 
 board very early in the morning. They soon gave Mr. Bel- 
 zoni to understand plainly, that all that was there was their 
 property ; and that the treasure should be for themselves. 
 Even the savages began to lay their account in the division 
 of the spoil. He assured them that he expected to find no- 
 thing but stones, and wanted no treasure. They still per- 
 sisted, that, if he took away any stones, the treasure was in 
 them ; and, if he could taiake a drawing, or likeness of them, 
 he could extract the treasure from them also, without their 
 perceiving it. Sonre proposed, that, if there were any fi- 
 gure discovered, it should be broken before it was carried 
 away. 
 
 In the course of the evening, two of the men left the work, 
 and went down the Nile to the boat. Finding Mrs. Belzoni 
 on board, with only a little girl from the village, they were 
 rather impertinent to her, and attempted io go on board in 
 Kpite of all she could say to them, intending to rob the boat. 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 581 
 
 At last she presented a pistol at them, on which they imme- 
 diately retired, and ran up the hill. She followed, but they 
 mixed with a number of their fellow savages, and it was im- 
 possible to find them out ; for they were all like so many 
 lumps of chocolate seated on the sand at work, and not to 
 be distinguished the one from the other. At night, on pay- 
 ing the men, the CachefTs brother said, the money must be 
 counted all in one heap, before it was divided among the peo- 
 ple. The interpreter, who was also treasurer, accordingly 
 counted the money on a piece of a ragged shawl, which he 
 had no sooner done, than the CachefTs brother threw himself 
 on it, and seized every piastre. The men looked at each 
 other, but no one dared to say a word about it ; and he took 
 it all away with him. 
 
 Mr. Belxoni supposed that no one would come to work 
 next morning, but in this he was mistaken. It was evident 
 that this work would employ him longer than he could remain 
 in that country, as the period he had meant to dedicate to 
 it was already elapsed. Mr. Belzoni also began to experience 
 the want of that very article which, a few days before, was 
 so despised and unknown ; and now he absolutely could not 
 proceed without it. It was money, which now had shown 
 its usual power among mankind, of exciting avarice, and of 
 which those wild people soon became very fond. Mr. BeJ- 
 zoni began to perceive it required a longer time to reach the 
 door than he could stay, and more money than he could 
 then afford. He had by this time removed so much sand, 
 as to uncover twenty feet in the front of the temple. The 
 colossal statues above the door were completely exposed ; 
 and one of the great colossi sitting before the temple, on the 
 north side, which was buried in the sand, appeared with his 
 face and shoulders like his companion on the south. Having oh- 
 tained a promise from the CachefT, that he would not let any 
 touch the place till his return, which would be in a few months, 
 he contented himself with putting a mark where the sand 
 was before he commenced the operation ; and after taking a 
 
582 BELZONl'S TRAVKLS 
 
 drawing of the exterior of the temple, quitted it, with a firm 
 resolution of returning to accomplish its opening. After mak- 
 ing some trifling presents to the Cacheff', they set off" the same 
 evening. They descended the Nile rapidly, as the current 
 was very strong. Every soldier has here a servant, to take care 
 of his camel, horses, or asses, if he have any. Thus, when a 
 body of five thousand meh marches against an enemy, there 
 are always at least six thousand people more to encumber it 
 and eat up the provision : for not only every common sol- 
 dier has a man, but every oflBcer has two or three ; and those 
 of the higher rank, as Beys, Cacheflfs, &c. have ten or more. 
 The next day, in the evening, they arrived at Ibrim, and 
 early on the 24th at Dier. 
 
 On the 27th, they came to the Shellal, or first cataract. 
 A soldier of Derow, who brought some letters, set off^ imme- 
 diately, and Mr. Belzoni never saw him afterwards. Tak- 
 ing particular notice of a small obelisk which was lying be^ 
 fore the propylaeon, and which, if brought to England, might 
 serve as a monument in some particular place, or as an em- 
 bellishment to the metropolis, he sent for the Aga of Assouan, 
 and a Reis who knew the channels in the Shellal, and in the 
 meantime took a general view of these superb ruins. When 
 the Aga and the Reis came, he made an agreement with 
 them to have the obelisk taken down the cataract ; but, for 
 want of a boat, it could not be effected that season. The 
 obelisk is twenty-two feet long, by two wide at the base ; so that 
 it required a pretty large boat to convey it. Tt was agreed, 
 and perfectly understood, that Mr. Belzoni took possession 
 of this obelisk in the name of his Britannic Majesty's consul- 
 general of Cairo ; and he gave four dollars to the Aga, to 
 pay for a guard for it till his return. 
 
 The blocks of stone, which formed the compartment of 
 fourteen feet long and twelve wide, were twelve in number. 
 When they were put together on the ground, they were a 
 beautiful group, consisting of the groat god Osiris seated on 
 his chair, with an altar before him, receiving offerings from 
 
IN liGYPT AND TSUBIA. 583 
 
 priests and female figures ; the whole surrounded by flowers 
 and hieroglyphics. The blocks were three feet six inches 
 long, and three feet wide : but as they were two feet three 
 inches thick, they were too bulky to be embarked whole. 
 \.s they could be easily cut, being a calcareous gTitstone, he 
 made an agreement for one hundred piastres, to have them 
 cut to six inches thickness. He left the money in the hands 
 of tlie Aga ; and it was understood, that these stones were to 
 be embarked by the first opportunity of a boat, and sent 
 down to Luxor. 
 
 On Mr. Belzoni's return to Assouan, no boat had arrived, 
 and he became impatient, as he wished to reach Thebes. An 
 Arab came to the Aga, and whispered in his ear, as if he had 
 something of great importance to communicate. The Aga 
 rose, though his dinner was not finished, and went away with 
 the air of a man of great business. Half an hour after he re- 
 turned, accompanied by two other persons of distinction, and 
 the Arab who came before. Tliey all seated themselves 
 round Mr. Belzoni, and after introducing the affair with a de- 
 gree of caution, he was asked whether he wished to 
 purchase a large piece of diamond. He said, that if the ar- 
 ticle were good, he would purchase it, if they could agree ; 
 but it was necessary that he should see it. The Aga said 
 the piece had been found by one of tiie natives of that place ; 
 and as he was not in want of money, it had been preserved 
 in the family for many years. The original proprietor being 
 now dead, his successors wished to dispose of it. Mr. Bel- 
 zoni requested to see it ; so retiring some distance out of the 
 way of the people, the man with great solemnity took a small 
 wooden box from a pocket in his leathern belt. In this was 
 a paper, which he unfolded ; after that, two or three others, 
 till at last he opened his sanctum sanctorum. Mr. Belzoni 
 took its contents in his haiids with no small expectation • but 
 saw it was only part of the stopple of a common glass cruet, 
 of the size of a hazel-nut, with two or three little gilt flowers 
 on it. Observing by his motions the disappointment strongly 
 
584 BELZONl'S TRAVELS 
 
 marked in his countenance, it destroyed their great expecta- 
 tions of wealth from this invaluable jewel. When he told 
 them, that it was only a piece of glass, the words affected 
 their minds like the unhappy tidings of some great misfortune 
 and they walked off in solemn silence. 
 
 The deception of these people is extreme. A traveller 
 passing by a village stops his bark for an hour or two : what 
 good peojje he finds ! Some bring him a small basket of 
 dates, others a few eggs, another some bread and milk ; with 
 which he is so pleased, that he immediately gives them five 
 or perhaps ten times more than the worth of what he re- 
 ceives, without being aware, that it is through such an ex- 
 pectation they bring him these things ; and exclaims, that in 
 Europe they do not treat a stranger so civilly. But let bim 
 take the smallest of these presents without giving any thing 
 in return, or even no more than the worth, they will not 
 fail to murmur at him. If he give only double the price, they 
 have the art of returning the money with scorn and contempt, 
 in order to shame him to give more : and if he take the money 
 returned, or give them nothing from the beginning, he 
 must not expect that they will let liim go away without pay- 
 ing them for what they brought him. All this is unknown to 
 a traveller merely passing by ; for there is no one in this cha- 
 racter who would be so mean as to accept any thing, with- 
 out returning double or treble its value. From these 
 trifles it may be presumed what they are in all their dealings ; 
 to-night one word for such a thing, to-morrow another: their 
 intrigues are beyond description : they have the art of mak 
 ing oiie thing appear like another so well, that it is very dif- 
 ficult to avoid falling into their trap. 
 
 Settling all bis affairs with the Aga, and satisfying his de- 
 mands of oil, vinegar, and some empty bottles, they left As- 
 souan in the morning of the 30th, and in two days arrived at 
 Esne, the current being very strong. 
 
 On the morning of the 4th of October they arrived at 
 Luxor. Seeing no boat had arrived from Cairo, though the 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 585 
 
 consul had sent some money, Mr. Belzoni set off in the same 
 boat to Gheneh, arrived there the next morning', and went 
 to see Mr. Sokiner, a person whom he knew. 
 
 Having paid half the money down required for a boat, it 
 was detecmined to ascend the Nile as far as Assouan, to un- 
 load at that place, and to return immediately. 
 
 On one occasion Mr. Belzoni dined with Calil Bey/ the 
 governor of Upper Egypt. The dinner was brought in a 
 large tray. It consisted, as usual, of very poor rice soup, 
 which, after eating three spoonfuls, was taken away, and a 
 dish of roast mutton brought forward. No sooner had they 
 begun to eat of that, than a man came in with his hand full 
 a large green peppercorns, and let them fall on the tray, 
 which, being of metal, sounded like a drum-head. After 
 him came another, with half-a-dozen onions peeled, which 
 he let fall in like manner, and they rolled about the tray like 
 billiard balls ; and a third followed with peeled garlic, &c. 
 After eating the mutton, a dish of very small fried fish was 
 served up. They were about half-a-dozen, and there were 
 eight of the party, so that no one could eat too much of this. 
 It was soon removed, and a kind of tart was produced ; but 
 neither the Bey, the Cacheff, the Sheik, nor Mr. Belzoni, 
 could eat a single bit of it. The fruit consisted of a water 
 melon, which having demolished, they finished their repast 
 by washing their beards. 
 
 At Carnak, the work to be done consisted in transporting 
 the six sphinxes and the white statue to Luxor for embarka- 
 tion, a distance of nearly a mile, without a road. In many 
 parts the water had left a soft ground where the statues had 
 to pass ; and, as there was no mechanical power to assist, the 
 Arabs had enougli to do to carry them to the place of des- 
 tination. 
 
 The time having elapsed in which Mr. Belzoni expected to 
 receive letters from Cairo, he resolved to return to Kenneh 
 On his arrival at that place, he found the courier had just en- 
 tered it. He brought letters from Mr. Salt, with an order 
 
 P. V. 25. 4 F 
 
586 BELZONl'S TRA^VELS 
 
 for money on the Seraf, or banker, of Kenneh. He then 
 finished his business there, and proceeded to Luxor, wliere 
 he found the boat returned from Assouan, to take the colossal 
 bust on board : but he was soon informed by the proprietor, 
 that it was loaded with dates, and that lie was come himself 
 from Esne, to return the money he had paid as earnest ; 
 for they could not think of takino- tliat iarj^e stone into the 
 boat, as it would crush it to pieces. 
 
 After various impediments, on the 17th of November the 
 head of the younger JMomnon was actually embarked. It 
 was no easy undertaking to put a piece of granite, of such 
 bulk and weight, on board a boat, that, if it received the 
 weight on one side, would immediately upset ; and this was 
 to be done without the smallest mechanical contrivance, even 
 a single tackle, and only with four poles and ropes ; the water 
 was about eighteen feet below the bank where the head was 
 to descend. The causeway was gradually sloped to the edge 
 of the water close to the boat, and with the four poles formed 
 a bridge from the bank into the centre of the boat, so that 
 when the weight bore upon the bridge, it pressed only on 
 the boat. On the opposite side of the boat Mr. Belzoni 
 directed them to put some mats well filled with straw. In 
 the ground behind the colossus a piece of a palm-tree was 
 firndy planted, round which a rope was twisted, and then 
 fastened to its car, to let it descend gradually. A lever was 
 placed on each side, and at the same time that men in the boat 
 were pulling, others were slackening the ropes, and others 
 shil'ting the rollers as the collossus advanced. Thus it de- 
 scended gradually from the main land to the causeway, when 
 it sunk a good deal, as the causeway was made of fresh earth. 
 However, it went smoothly on board. The Arabs, who were 
 unanimously of opinion that it would go to the bottom of the 
 river, or crusli the boat, were ail attention, as if anxious to 
 know the result, as well as to learn how the operation was to 
 bp [)erformed ; and when the owner of the boat, who consi- 
 dered it as consigned to perdition, witnessed the success, ;ind 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 587 
 
 saw ihe huge piece of stone, as he called it, safely on board, 
 he squeezed Mr. Belzoni by the hand, and exclaimed, they 
 had reason to be thankful. The boat' then crossed the water 
 to Luxor, for what was to be taken in there, which was done 
 in three days, and on the 21st they left Thebes to return to 
 Cairoi which they reached on the 15th of December, having 
 been twenty-four days from Thebes. From thence they pro- 
 ceeded to Alexandria, which they reached on the 14th of Ja- 
 nuary, 1817, and lodged it in the Bashaw's magazine ; he then 
 returned to the capital ; and accompanied by Mr. Beechy, 
 immediately proceeded up the Nile, with a determination, if 
 j)ossibIe, to accomplish the opening of the great temple of 
 Ipsambul. At Philse the party was reinforced by Captains 
 Irby and Mangles of the Royal Navy. 
 
 Having conciliated the two CachefFs by suitable presents, 
 Mr. Belzoni agreed to give the workmen eighty in number,) 
 three hundred paistres for removing the sand as low down as 
 the entrance : at first they seemed to set about the task like 
 men who were determined to finish the job ; but at the end of 
 the third day they all grew tired, and under the pretext that 
 the Rhamadan was to commence on the next day, they left 
 Mr. Belzoni, with the temple, the sand and the treasure, and 
 contented themselves with keeping thethree hundred piastres. 
 
 Being convinced, that, if the temple was to be opened' at 
 all, it must be by their own exertions ; assisted by the crew 
 of the boat, they set to work, and, by dint of perscverence 
 and hard labour, for about eighteen days, they arrived at the 
 door-way of the temple, which Mr. Belzoni considers as the 
 finest and most extensive excavation in Nubia, and one that 
 can stand a competition with any in Egypt, except the tomb 
 newly discovered in Beban el Molook. The temple of Ip- 
 sambul has, in all probability, been covered with sand two 
 thousand years, or more. The following is the description 
 given of it. 
 
 From what they could perceive at the first view, it was 
 evidently a very large place; but their ablonisiiment increased 
 
 4 F 2 
 
588 BKLZONJ'S TRA\ELS 
 
 when tliey found it to be one of the most magnificent of tem- 
 ples, enriciied with bpautiful intaglios, paintings, colossal H- 
 gures, ^c. They entered at first into a large pronaos, fifty- 
 seven feet long and fifty-two wide, supported by two rows 
 of square pillars, in a line from the front door to the door of 
 die sekos. Each pillar had a figure, finely executed, and 
 ^ery little injured by time. The tops of their turbans reached 
 the ceiling, about thirty feet high : the pillars were five feet 
 and a half square. Both these and the walls were covered 
 with beautiful hieroglyphics, the style of which is somewhat 
 superior, or at least bolder, than that of any others in Egypt, 
 not only in workmanship, but also in the subjects. They 
 exhibited battles, stormings of castles, triumphs over the 
 Ethioj)ians, sacrifices, &c. In some places were to be 
 seen the same hero as at Medinet Aboo, but in a different 
 posture. Some of the columns were much injured by the 
 close and heated atmosphere, the temperature of which was 
 so hot, that the thermometer must have risen to above a 
 hundred and thirty degrees. The second hall was about 
 twenty-two feet high, thirty-seven wide, and twenty-five and 
 a half long. It contained four pillars about four feet square ; 
 and the walls of this also were covered with fine hieroglyphics 
 in pretty good preservation. Beyond this was a shorter 
 chamber, thirty- seven feet wide, in which is the entrance 
 into the sanctuary. At each end of the chamber was a door, 
 leading into smaller chambers in the same direction with the 
 sanctuary, each eight feet by seven. The sanctuary was 
 twenty-three feet and a half long. It contained a pedestal 
 in the centre, and at the end four colossal sitting figures, 
 the heads of which were in good preservation, not having 
 been injured by violence. On the right side of the great 
 hall, entering into the temple, were two doors, at a short 
 distance from each other, which led into two long separate 
 rooms, the first thirty-eight feet ten inches in length, and 
 eleven feet five inches wide; tlm other forty-eight feet se- 
 ven inchrs, by thirteen feet three. At the end of the first 
 
IN KGYPT AND NUBIA. 589 
 
 were several unfinished hieroglyphics, of which some, though 
 merely sketched, gave fine ideas of their manner of drawing. 
 At the lateral corners of the entrance into the second cham- 
 ber from the great hall was a door, each of which led into a 
 small chamber twenty-two feet six inches long, and ten feet 
 wide. Each of these rooms had two doors leading into two 
 other chambers, forty-three feet in length, and ten feet ele- 
 ven inches wide. There were two benches in them, appa- 
 rently to sit on. The most remarkable subjects in the tem- 
 ])le were, 1st, a group of captive Ethiopians, in the west- 
 ern corner of the great hall : 2nd, an hero kilHng a man 
 with his spear, another lying slain under his feet, on the 
 same western wall : 3rd, the storming of a castle, in the 
 western corner from the front door. 
 
 The outside of the temple also was magnificent. It was 
 a hundred and seventeen feet wide, and eighty-six feet high ; 
 the height from the top of the cornice to the top of the door 
 being sixty-six feet six inches, and the height of the door 
 twenty feet. There were four enormous sitting colossi, the 
 largest in Egypt or Nubia, except the great sphinx at the 
 j)yramids, to which they approach in the proportion of near 
 two- thirds. From the shoulder to the elbow they measured 
 fifteen feet six inches ; the ears three feet six inches ; the face 
 seven feet ; the beard five feet six inches ; across the shoul- 
 ders twenty-five feet four inches ; their height was about 
 fifty one feet, not including the caps, which are about four- 
 teen feet. There are only two of these colossi in sight, one 
 being still buried under the sand, and the other, near the 
 door, is half fallen down, and buried also. On the top of 
 the door was a colossal figure of Osiris, twenty feet high, with 
 two colossal hieroglyphic figures, one on each side looking 
 towards it. On the top of the temple was a cornice with 
 hieroglyphics, a torus and frize under it. The cornice six 
 feet wide, the frize four feet. Above the cornice was a row 
 of bitting monkeys eight feet high, and six across the shoul- 
 ders, twenty. one in number. The temple was nearly two- 
 
690 BELZONl'S TRAVELS 
 
 thirds buried under the sand, of which they removed thirty- 
 one feet before they came to the upper part of the door. 
 
 Mr. Belzoni observed that the heat on first entering- the 
 temple was so great that they could scarcely bear it, and the 
 perspiration from their hands was so copious as to render the 
 paper by its dripping unfit for use. On the first opening that 
 was made by the removal of the sand, the only living object 
 that presented itself was a toad of prodigious size. The in- 
 animate objects within were the figures of two lions with 
 hawks* heads^ as large as life, aud a small sitting human 
 figure. 
 
 Mr. Belzoni and his party now returned to Thebes, and 
 opened three new tombs, but in none of them did there ap- 
 pear any thing to prove that they had been intended for the 
 sepulchre of the kings of Egypt. Some were only passages 
 and staircases leading to painted rooms. In one of these 
 was a sarcophagus of granite with two mummies in it, covered 
 with hieroglyphics in an unfinished state, and a statue stand- 
 ing erect, six feet six inches high, and beautifully cut out of 
 sycamore. There were besides many little images of wood 
 well carved, some with the liead of a lion, others of a fox, 
 and others of a monkey. In another tomb were mummies in 
 their cases lying flat on the ground ; the bodies were covered 
 with linen of different degrees of fineness, and, as Mr. Bel- 
 zoni thinks, wrap.ped round them at diftVrent and distant pe- 
 riods of time : so careful were the ancient Egyptians in their 
 attentions to the dead ! Some of the tombs had paintings 
 beautifully executed, others were quite plain. In one cham- 
 ber were discovered, two naked bodies without either wrap- 
 pers or case ; they were females, with hair of considerable 
 length, and well preserved. In some of the chambers the 
 mummies of cows, sheep, monkeys, crocodiles, bats, and 
 other animals were intermixed with human bodies ; and 
 one tomb was filled with nothing but cats, carefully folded 
 in red and white linen, the head covered by a mask reprc 
 sen ling the cat, and made of the same linen. 
 
IN I'CYPT AND NUBIA. 591 
 
 Tlie Ei^yptians appear to have been acquaiiued with iineii 
 manufactures to a perlection equal to the English; for, in 
 many of their figures, their garments were quite transparent ; 
 and among the folding of the mummies, some cloth quite as 
 fine as common muslin, very strong, and of an equal tex- 
 ture. Tliey had the art of tanning leather, with which they 
 made shoes, some of which were found of various shapes. 
 They had also the art of staining the leather with various co- 
 lours, and knew the mode of embossing on it, for <bey found 
 leather with figures hnpressed on it, quite elevated. It ap- 
 pears to have been done with a hot iron while the leather was 
 damp. They also fabricated a sort of coarse glass, with 
 which they made beads and other ornaments. 
 
 Besides enamelling, the art of gilding was in great per- 
 fection among them, as they found several ornaments of 
 this kind. They knew how to cast copper as well as to form 
 it into sheets, and had a metallic composition not unlike 
 lead, rather softer, but of great tenacity, much like the lead 
 which is on paper in the tea-chests from China, but much 
 thicker. They found some pieces of it covered on both sides 
 with a thin coat of another metal, which might be taken for 
 silver. 
 
 Sufficient proofs were also procured of the skill of the an- 
 cients in varnishing on baked clay, and that this art was car- 
 ried to great perfection : in their colours, especially the red, 
 blue, green, and yellow, still remain, after so many ages, 
 as brilliant and as beautiful as when first laid on. 
 
 The inconvenience, ami the hazard of visiting these sepul- 
 chres, can only be duly appreciated by those wlio have made 
 the experiment ; and nothing but an extraordinary degree of 
 enthusiasm for researches of this kind could have supported 
 Mr. Belzoni in the numerous descents which he made into 
 the mummy pits of Egypt, and through the long subterrane- 
 ous passages, particularly inconvenient for a man of his size. 
 
 Of some of these tombs he says many persons could not 
 withstand the suffocating air, which often cruises fainting. A 
 
592 BELZONl'S TRAVELS 
 
 vast quantity of dust rises, so fine that it enters tbe throat 
 and nostrils, and chokes the nose and mouth to such a de- 
 gree, that it requires great power of lungs to resist it and 
 the strong effluvia of the mummies. This Is not all ; the en- 
 try or passage where the bodies are, is roughly cut in the 
 rocks, and the falling of the sand from the upper part or 
 ceiling of the passage causes it to be nearly filled np. In 
 some places there is not more than the vacancy of a foot left, 
 which you must contrive to pass through in a creeping posture 
 like a snail, on pointed and keen stones, that cut like glass. 
 After getting through these passages, some of them two or 
 three hundred yards long, there is generally a commodious 
 place, perhaps high enough to sit. But what a place of 
 rest! surrounded by bodies, by heaps of mummies in all di- 
 rections; which, previous to the beholder being accustomed 
 to the sight, impress with horror. The blackness of the wall, 
 the faint light given by the candles or torches for want of air, 
 the different objects that surround him, seeming to con- 
 verse with each other, and the Arabs with the candles or 
 torches in their hands, naked and covered with dust, them- 
 selves resembling living mummies, absolutely formed a scene 
 that cannot be described. In such a situation Mr Belzoni 
 observes, he found himself several times, and often returned 
 exhausted and fainting, till at last he became inured to it, 
 and indifferent to what he suffered, except from the dust, 
 which never failed to choke his throat and nose ; and though, 
 fortunately, he was destitute of the sense of smelling, he 
 could taste that the mummies were rather unpleasant to swal- 
 low. After the exertion of entering into such a place, 
 through a passage of fifty, a hundred, three hundred, or per- 
 haps six hundred yards, nearly overcome, he sought a rest- 
 ing-place, found one, and contrived to sit ; but when his 
 weight bore on the body of an Egyptian, it crushed it like a 
 band-box. He naturally had recourse to his hands to sustain 
 his weight, but they found no better support ; so that he sank 
 altogether among the broken mummies, with a crash of bones, 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 593 
 
 ratrs, and wooden cases, which raised such a dust as kept 
 him motionless for a quarter of an hour, waiting till it sud- 
 sided again. He could not move from the place, however, 
 without increasing it, and every step he took he crushed a 
 mummy in some part or other. Once he was conducted 
 from such a place to another resembling it, through a pas- 
 sage of about twenty feet in length, and no wider than that 
 a body could be forced through. It was choked with mum- 
 mies, and he could not pass without putting his face in 
 contact with that of some decayed Egyptian ; but as the pas- 
 sage inclined downwards, his own weight helped him on 
 however, he could not avoid being covered with bones, legs, 
 arms, and heads rolling from above. Thus he proceeded 
 from one cave to another, all full of mummies piled up in 
 various ways, some standing, some lying, and some on their 
 heads. The purpose of his researches was to rob the Egyp- 
 tians of their papyri ; of which he found a few hidden in their 
 breasts, under their arms, in the space above the knees, or 
 on the legs, and covered by the numerous folds of cloth, that 
 envelop the mummy. 
 
 The tombs in the Beban el Molook were more capacious. 
 The first that was opened had a staircase eight feet wide and 
 ten feet high, at the foot of which were four mummies in 
 their cases, flat on the ground, with their heads towards the 
 stairs ; further on were four more in the same direction ; one 
 of them had a covering thrown over it exactly like the pall 
 on the coffins of the present day. 
 
 Mr. Belzoni says, I went through the operation of exa- 
 mining all these mummies one by one. They were much alike 
 in their foldings, except that which had the painted linen 
 over it. Among the others he found one, that had new linen, 
 apparently, put over the old rags ; which proves that the 
 Egyptians took great care of their dead, even for many years 
 after their decease. That which was distinguished from all 
 the rest, he observed, was dressed in finer linen, and more 
 neatly wrapped up. It had garlands of flowers and leaves, 
 
 P. V. 25. 4 G 
 
594 BKLZONl'S TRAVELS 
 
 and rn the side over the heart, Mr. Belzoni says, that 
 he found a plate of noetal soft like lead, covered with 
 another metal, not unlike silver le?\f. It had the eyes of a 
 cow which so often represents Isis, engraved on it; and in 
 the centre of the breast was another plate, with the winged 
 globe. Both plates were nearly six inches long. On unfolding 
 the linen, they still found it very fine, which was not the case 
 with the other mummies ; for, alter three or four foldings, it 
 was generally of a coarser kind. At last they came to the body, 
 of which nothing was to be seen but the bones, which had as- 
 sumed a yellow tint The case was in part painted : but the 
 linen cloth covering it fell to pieces as soon as it was touched. 
 On the 16th, Mr. Belzoni recommenced the excavations in 
 the valley of Beban el Molook, and pointed out the fortunate 
 spot which paid him for all the trouble of his researches. He 
 may call this, he adds, a fortunate day, one of the best per- 
 haps of his life ; from the pleasure it afforded him of present- 
 ing to the world, a new and perfect monument of Egyptian 
 antiquity, which can be recorded as superior to any other in 
 point of grandeur, style and preservation, appearing as if 
 just finished on the day they entere<l it ; and what he found 
 in it, he adds, will shew its great superiority to all others. 
 Certain indications had convinced him of the existence of a 
 large and unopened sepulchre. Impressed with this idea he 
 caused the earth to be dug away to the depth of eighteen 
 feet, when the entrance made its appearance. The passage, 
 however, was choked up witli large stones, which were with 
 difficulty removed. A long corridor, with a painted ceiling, 
 led to a staircase twenty-three feet long, and nearly nine 
 feet wide. At the bottom was a door twelve feet high ; it 
 opened into a second corridor of the same width, thirtysoen 
 feet long, the sides and ceiling finely sculptured and painted. 
 The more he saw, he says, the more he was eager to see. 
 His progress, however, was interrupted at the end of this 
 second corridor by a pit thirty feet deep and twelve wide. 
 Beyond this he perceived a small aperture of about two feet 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 595 
 
 square in the wall, out of which hung a rope reaching proba- 
 bly to the bottom of the well ; another rope fastened to a 
 beam of wood stretching across the passage on this side also 
 hung into the well. One of these ropes was apparently for 
 the purpose of descending on one side of the well and the 
 other for that of ascending on the opposite side. Both the 
 wood and the rope crumbled to dur>t on being touched. 
 
 By means of two beams Mr. Belzoni contrived to cross 
 the pit or well, and to force a larger opening in the wall, 
 beyond which was discovered a third corridor of the same 
 dimensions as the two former. Those parts of the wood and 
 rope which were on the further side of this wall did not fall 
 to dust, but were in a tolerably good state of preservation, 
 owing, as he supposed, to the dryness of the air in these 
 more distant apartments. 
 
 The sepulchre was found (o open into a number of cham- 
 bers of different dimensions, with corri<lors and staircases. 
 Of the chambers, the first was a beautiful hall, twenty-seven 
 feet six inches by twenty-five feet ten inches, in which were 
 four pillars each three feet square. Mr. Belzoni says, at the 
 end of this room, which he called (he entrance-hall, and op- 
 posite the aperture, was a large door, from which three steps 
 led down into a chamber with two pillars, which was twenty- 
 eight feet two inches by twenty-five feet six inches. The 
 pillars are three feet ten inches square. He gave it the name 
 of the drawing room ; for it is covered with figures, which, 
 though only outlined, are so fine and perfect, that one 
 would think they had been drawn only the day before. Re- 
 turning into the entrance hall, they saw on the left of the 
 aperture a large staircase, which descended into a corridor. 
 It is thirteen feet four inches long, seven and a half wide, and 
 has eighteen steps. At the bottom they entered a beautiful 
 ( orridor, thirty-six feet six inches by six feet eleven inches. 
 They perceived that the paintings became more perfect as 
 tiiey advanced farther into the interior. They retained their 
 gloss, or a kind of varnish over the colours, which had a 
 
 4 G 2 
 
596 BELZONl'S TRAVELS 
 
 beautiful effect. The figures are painted on a white ground. 
 At the end of this corridor, they descended ten steps, which 
 he called the small stairs, into another, seventeen feet two in- 
 ches by ten feet five inches. From this they entered a small 
 chamber, twenty feet four inches by thirteen feet eight in- 
 ches, to which he gave the name of the Room of Beauties ; 
 for it was adorned with the most beautiful figures in basso re- 
 lievo, like all the rest, and painted. When standing in the 
 centre of this chamber, the traveller is surrounded by an 
 assembly of Egyptian gods and goddesses. Proceeding 
 further, they entered a large hall, twenty-seven feet nine 
 inches, by twenty-si^ feet ten inches. In this hall are two 
 rows of square pillars, three on each side of the entrance, 
 forming a line with the corridors. At each side of this hrill 
 was a small chamber : that on the right is ten feet five inches 
 by eight feet eight inches : that on the left, ten feet five 
 inches by eight feet nine inches and a half. This hall he 
 termed the Hall of Pillars ; the little room on the right, 
 Isis' Room, as in it a large cow is painted ; that on the left 
 the Room of Mysteries, from the mysterious figures it ex- 
 hibits. At the end of this hall they entered a large saloon, 
 with an arched roof or ceiling, which is separated from the 
 Hall of Pillars only by a step ; so that the two may be 
 reckoned one. The saloon is thirty-one feet ten inches by 
 twenty-seven feet. On the right of the saloon is a small 
 chamber without any thing in it, roughly cut, as if unfinished, 
 and without painting : on the left they entered a chamber 
 with two square pillars, twenty-five feet eight inches by 
 twenty-two feet ten inches. This he called the sideboard 
 room, as it had a projection of three feet in form of a side- 
 board all round, which was perhaps intended to contain the 
 articles necessary for the funeral ceremony. The pillars are 
 three feet four inches square, and the whole beautifully 
 painted as the rest. At the same end of the room, and facing 
 the Hall of Pillars, they entered by a large door into 
 another chamber with four pillars, one of which is fallen 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 597 
 
 down. This chamber is forty three feet four inches by 
 seventeen feet six inches ; the pillars three feet seven inches 
 square. It is covered with white plaster, where the rock did 
 not cut smoothly, but there is no painting on it. He named 
 it the BulFs or Apis* Room, as they found the carcase of a 
 bull in it, embalmed with asphaltum ; and also, scattered in 
 various places, an immense quantity of small wooden figures 
 of mummies six or eight inches long, and covered with 
 asphaltum to preserve them. There were some other figures 
 of fine earth baked, coloured blue and strongly varnished. 
 On each side of* the two little rooms were some wooden 
 statues standing erect, four feet high, with a circular' 
 hollow inside, as if to contain a roll of papyrus. There 
 were likewise fragments of other statues of wood and of 
 composition. 
 
 The description of what was found in the centre of the 
 saloon, merits the most particular attention, not having its 
 equal in the world, and being such as they had no idea could 
 exist. It is, says Mr. Belzoni, a sarcophagus of the finest 
 oriental alabaster, nine feet five inches long, and three feet 
 seven inches wide. Its thickness is only two inches ; and it 
 is transparent when a light is placed inside of it. It is 
 minutely sculptured within and without with several hundred 
 figures, which do not exceed two inches in height, and repre- 
 sent, as he supposes, the whole of the funeral procession and 
 ceremonies relating to the deceased, united with several 
 emblems, &c. Nothing can give an adequate idea of this 
 beautiful and invaluable piete of antiquity, and he says, 
 that nothing has been brought into Europe from Egypt that 
 can be compared with it. The cover was not there ; it had 
 been taken out, and broken into several pieces, which they 
 found in digging before the first entrance. The sarcophagus 
 was over a staircase in the centre of the saloon, which com- 
 municated with a subterraneous passage leading downwards, 
 three hundred feet in length. At the end of this passage 
 they found a grest quantity of bats' dung, which choked it up. 
 
598 BELZONl'S TRAVELS 
 
 SO that they could go no further without digging. It was 
 nearly filled up too by the falling in of the upper part. 
 
 The whole of the figures and hieroglyphics in this wonderful 
 excavation are sculptured in has relief and painted over, 
 except in one chamber, where the outlines are only given. 
 Great care appears to have been taken to have these accu- 
 rate ; as several sketches were observed on the walls in red 
 lines, which had afterwards been traced with corrections in 
 black ; the stone was then cut away from the side of the 
 chamber all round the black lines, leaving the figure raised 
 to the height of half au inch or more, acc6rdiDg to its size. 
 A coat of whitewash was then passed over it, which Mr. 
 Belzoni says is still so beautiful and clear, that his best and 
 whitest paper appeared yellowish when compared to it. 
 The painter came next and finished the figure in colours, 
 which after more than 2000 years still retain all their original 
 brilliancy. Among the numerous representations of figures 
 in various positions, one group is singularly interesting, as 
 describing the march of a military und triumphal procession 
 with three different sets of prisoners, who are evidently 
 Jews, Ethiopians, and Persians. The procession begins with 
 four red men with white kirtles followed by a hawk-headed 
 divinity ; these are Egyptians apparently released from cap- 
 tivity and returning home under the protection of the na- 
 tional deity. Then follow four white men in striped and 
 fringed kirtles, with black beards, and with a simple white 
 fillet round their black hair ; these are obviously Jews and 
 might be taken for the portraits of those, who, at this day, 
 walks the streets of London. After them come three white 
 men with smaller beards and curled whiskers, with double- 
 spreading plumes on their heads, tattoed, and wearing robes 
 or mantles spotted like the skins of wild beasts ; these are 
 Persians or Chaldeans. Lastly, come four negroes with large 
 circular ear-rings, and white petticoats supported by a belt 
 over the shoulder ; these are Ethiopians. 
 
 The Egyptians appear to have had three different modes of 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 599 
 
 embalming- tlieir dead ; Herodotus says, that these modes 
 were according to the inclinations of the friends of the 
 deceased, whether they were disposed to be sparing in the 
 expense, or not. He says, certain persons were appointed 
 by the laws to the exercise of this profession. When a dead 
 body was brought to them, they exhibited to the friends of 
 the deceased different models, highly finished in wood. The 
 most perfect of these, he said, resembles one, whom I do 
 not think it religious to name on such an occasion ; the 
 second was of less price, and inferior in point of execution ; 
 the other was still more mean. They then enquired after 
 which model the deceased should be represented. When 
 the price was determined, the relations retired, and the 
 embalmers proceeded in their work. In the most perfect 
 specimens of their art, they extracted the brain through the 
 nostrils, partly with a piece of crooked iron, and partly by 
 the infusion of drugs. They then, with an Ethiopian stone, 
 made an incision in the side, through which they drew out 
 the intestines. These they cleansed thoroughly, washing 
 them with palm-wine, and afterwards covering them with 
 pounded aromatics. They then filled the body with powder 
 of pure myrrh, cassia, and other spices, without frankincense. 
 Having sewn up the body, it was covered with nitre for the 
 space of seventy days, which time they were not allowed to 
 exceed. At the end of this period, being first washed, it was 
 closely wrapped in bandages of cotton, dipped in a gum, 
 which the Egyptians used as a glue. It was then returned to 
 the relations, who inclosed the body in a case of wood, made 
 to resemble a human figure, and placed it against the wall 
 in the repository of their dead. This was the most costly 
 mode of embalming. 
 
 For those who wished to be at less expense, the follow- 
 ing method was adopted. They neither drew out the in- 
 lestines, nor made an incision in the dead body, but injected a 
 liniment made from the cedar. After taking proper means 
 to secure the injected oil within the body, it was covered 
 
600 RFLZONl'S TRAY El. 8 
 
 with nitre for the time above specified. On they last day 
 they withdrew the liquid before introduced, which brought 
 with it all the intestines. The nitre dried up and hardened 
 the flesh, so that the corpse appeared little but skin and bone. 
 In this state the body was returned, and no further care 
 taken concerning it. 
 
 There was a third mode of embalming, appropriated to 
 the poor. A particular kind of lotion was made to pass 
 through the body, which was afterwards merely left in nitre 
 for the above space of seventy days, and then returned. 
 Such is the account given by Herodotus. 
 
 Mr. Belzoni says, that Herodotus was incorrect in some 
 of his accounts of the mummies ; he mentions them as 
 erect : but it is somewhat singular, that in many pits which 
 Mr. Belzoni opened, not a single mummy was standing. 
 On the contrary, he found them lying regularly, in horizontal 
 rows, and some were sunk into a cement, which must have 
 been nearly fluid when the cases were placed on it. 
 
 The lower classes were not buried in cases : they were 
 dried up, as it appears, after the regular preparation of the 
 seventy days. Mummies of this sort were in the proportion 
 %£ about ten to one of the better class, as near as he could 
 calculate by the quantity he saw of both ; and it appeared, 
 that after the operation of the nitre, adopted by the mummy- 
 makers, these bodies may have been dried in the sun. 
 
 Among these tombs they saw some which contained the 
 mummies of animals intermixed with human bodies. There 
 were bulls, cows, sheep, monkeys, foxes, cats, crocodiles, 
 fishes, and birds. Some of the mummies have garlands of 
 flowers, and leaves of the acacia, or sunt tree, over their 
 heads and breasts. This tree is often seen on the banks of 
 the Nile, above Thebes, and particularly in Nubia. The 
 flower, when fresh, is yellow, and of a very hard substance, 
 appearing as if artificial. The leaves, also, are very strong, 
 and though dried and turned brown, they still retain their 
 firmness. In the inside of these mummies are found lumps 
 
IN KGYPT AND NUBIA. 601 
 
 oFasphaltum, sometimes so large as to weigh two pounds. 
 I'he entrails of these mummies are often found bound up in 
 linen and asphaltum. What does riot incorporate with the 
 fleshy part, remains of the natural colour of the pitch ; but 
 that which does incorporate becomes brown, and evidently 
 mixed with the grease of the body, forming a mass, which on 
 pressure crumbles into dust. The wooden case is first co- 
 vered with a layer or two of cement, not unlike plaster of 
 Paris ; and on this are sometimes cast figures in basso relievo, 
 for which they make holes cut in stone. The whole case is 
 painted ; the ground generally yellow, the figures and hiero- 
 glyphics blue, green, red, and black. The last is very sel- 
 dom used. The whole of the painting is covered with a 
 varnish, which preserves it very effectually. 
 
 It is somewhat singular that no instruments of war are 
 found in these places, when it is considered what a warlike 
 nation the Egyptians were. 
 
 The reader may see several of these mummies in (he 
 British Museum ; which place is open to the public every 
 Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, and any person decently 
 dressed is admitted between the hours of ten and two 
 o'clock. 
 
 Dr. Young observes, that the sepulchral inscriptions con- 
 stitute the most considerable part of the Egyptian literature 
 which remains ; that the general tenor of them, as might be 
 expected, from the testimony of Herodotus, appears to be 
 the identification of the deceased with Osiris, and, if a fe- 
 male, with Isis ; and that the subject of the most usual re- 
 presentations, seems to be ihe reception of this new person- 
 age by the principal deities 
 
 By a dihgent and accurate comparison of a great number 
 of these hieroglyphical anil pictorial representations, he has 
 succeeded in ascertaining the names of the principal deities, 
 and of several of the kings of Egypt, as well as the meaning 
 of th« epithets attached to them ; and from the hieroglyphic 
 of the name, and other corroborating circumstances, he 
 
 P. V. 2i) 4 H 
 
002 BELZUNI'S TRAVELS 
 
 entertains no doubt whatever, tliat the principal figure taken 
 from the wall of the catacomb in nuestion, is meant for 
 Psammis, who, according to Herodotus, was the son of 
 Necos or Nechao. 
 
 There was a procession of native Egyptians, and of cap- 
 live Ethiopians, Jews, and Peisians, each distinctly and 
 characteristically marked in feature, colour and dress ; an 
 c vent which we shall find to accord wilh the history of the 
 times : for we know from the great source of all authentic 
 information relating to ancient history, the Bible, thatNecho, 
 the father of Psammis, carried on war with the Jews and 
 Babyloniai\s ; and Herodotus notices his expedition against 
 the Ethiopians ; so that this proctssion may very naturally he 
 considered as consisting of the three descriptions of captives 
 made in his wars. In turning to the 35th Chapter of the 
 2nd of Chronicles, we shall find this painting of the catacomb 
 more strikingly elucidated by the following remarkable 
 passage : ' After all this, when Josiah had prepared the 
 terrple, Necho, king of Egypt, caiDC up to fight against 
 Charchemish, by Euphrates ; and Josiah went out against 
 him. But he sent ambassadors to him, saying, what have I 
 Jo do with thee, thou king of Judea ? I come not against 
 thee this day, but against the house wherewith I have war ; 
 for God commanded me to make hasie; forbear thee from 
 meddling with God, who is with me, that he destroy thee 
 not. Nevertheless, Josiah would not turn his face from him, 
 but disguised himself, that he might fight wilh him, and 
 hearkened not unto the words of Necho from the mouth of 
 God, and came to fight in the valley of Megiddo. And the 
 archers shot at King Josiah ; and the king said to his servants, 
 have meaway, fori am sore wounded. His servants there- 
 fore took him out of that chariot, and put him in the second 
 chariot he had, and they brought him to Jerusalem and he 
 died, and was buried in one of the sepulchres of his fathers, 
 and all Judah and Jerusalem mourned for Josiah.' And 
 again, in Chapter 36 '. * Then the people ot the land, took 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. G03 
 
 Jehoahaz, the son of Josiab, and made him king in his 
 father's stead in Jerusalem. Jehoahaz was twenty and 
 three years old when he began to reign, and he reigned three 
 months in Jerusalem. And the king of Egypt put him 
 down at Jerusalem, and condemned the land in a hundred 
 talents of silver, and a talent of gold. And the king of 
 Egypt made Eliakira, his brother, king over Judahand Jeru- 
 salem, and turned his name to Jehoiakim. And Necko took 
 Jehoahaz, his brother, and carried him into Egypt.'' 
 
 The wonderful sculptures of the Egyptians are to be 
 admired for the boldness of their execution. Their enormous 
 sizes render it difficult for the artists to maintain their due 
 ])roportions, which were according to the height of the 
 figure. For instance, if a statue were erected of the size 
 of life, the head was of the natural size ; if the statue were 
 thirty feet high, the hejid was larger in proportion to the 
 body ; and if fifty feet high, the magnitude of the head was 
 farther increased. Had it been otherwise, in statues of so 
 great height, the distance from the eyes of the spectator 
 would have so much diminished the size, that the head would 
 have appeared too small in proportion to the legs. The 
 tedious work of the endless hieroglyphics which are to be 
 seen in every part of every edifice, the numberless figures 
 on the temples, tombs, obelisks, and walls, must have required 
 wonderful labour. They had only four sorts of stones ii> 
 general use for sculpture, the sandy, the calcareous, breccia, 
 and granite. All, except the first, are very hard, and what 
 is most singular is, it is not known with what tools they were 
 cut out. Ocular demonstration shews, that the tools of the 
 present day will not cut granite without great difficulty. 
 
 When a young man wants to marry, he goes to the father 
 of the intended bride, and agrees with him what he is to pay 
 for her. This being settled, so much money is to be spent on 
 the wedding-day feast. To set up housekeeping nothing is 
 requisite but two or three earthen pots, a stone to grind 
 n]cal and a mat, which is the bed. The spouse has a gown 
 
 4 H 2 
 
604 liELZONl'S TRAVELS 
 
 and jewels of lier own ; and, if the bridegroom present her 
 with a pair of bracelets of silver, ivory, or glass, she is happy 
 and fortunate indeed. The house is ready, veithout rent or 
 taxes. No rain can pass through the roof ; and there is no 
 door, for there is no want of one, as there is nothing to lose. 
 Th(;y make a kind of box of clay and straw, which, af(er two 
 or three day's exposure to the sun, becomes quite hard. It 
 is fixed on a stand, an aperture is left to put all their pre- 
 cious things into it, and a piece of mummy case forms the 
 door. If the house do not please them, they walk out and 
 enter another as there are several hundreds at their com- 
 mand. 
 
 At Carnak, one morning, previous to crossing the Nile to 
 Gournou, Mr. Belzoni set several men to work on a spot of 
 ground at the foot of a heap of earth, where part of a large 
 colossus projected out. Mr. Beechey, who sometimes visited 
 the ruins, superintended the work on that day ; and had the 
 pleasure to discover a colossal head, larger than that which 
 had been sent to England. It was of red granite, of beautiful 
 workmanship, and uncommonly well preserved, except one 
 ear, and part of the chin, which had been knocked off along 
 with the beard. It is detached from the shoulder at the 
 lower part of the neck, and has the usual corn-measure, or 
 mitre, on its head. Though of larger proportion than the 
 young Memnon, it is not so bulky or heavy, as it has no part 
 of the shoulder attached to it. Mr. Belzoni had it removed 
 to Luxor, which employed eight days, though the distance is 
 little more than a mile. Besides this head, which is ten 
 feet from the neck to the top of the mitre, he procured an 
 arn] belonging to the same colossus, which measures also ten 
 feet, and with the head, will give a just idea of the size of 
 the statue. 
 
 At this time an order came from the Defterdar Bey, who 
 had arrived at Gamola, three miles north of Thebes, to all 
 the Cacheffs and Caimakaus, who commanded on both sides 
 of Thebes, not to permit the English to accumulate any 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 605 
 
 more antiquities, nor to allow the Arabs to work or sell any 
 thing more to them on any account. 
 
 Mr. Belzoni waited on the Bey the next morning, and 
 found him seated in his divan, surrounded by his Cacheffs, 
 and a number of other attendants. He received him coolly. 
 He inquired whether he had not yet made up his collection. 
 He answered, that, as long as he had his permission he 
 would still endeavour to find something more. 
 
 It was manifest he wanted an excuse for his conduct; for 
 he said he had been informed that the Fellahs had complained 
 of being exceedingly ill-treated, and that they drew their 
 swords to cut off their heads and Mr. Belzoni's people beat 
 <hem continually. 
 
 The Bey said, that Mr. Belzoni had bought nearly every 
 article of antiquity that could be obtained in Gournou, and 
 therefore it was time to stop their proceedings. Mr. Bel- 
 zoni replied, that what he had bought had been voluntarily 
 sold by the Arabs, and begged the Bey not to believe what 
 he heard from his opponents. The Bey inquired whether 
 Gournou was far off. On being shewn the place out of 
 the window, six miles distant, he ordered horses, and in a 
 few minutes they set off for that place. He went straight 
 on to Memnonium; where he inquired about the great 
 mosquees, as he named them, and put several questions con- 
 cerning the buildings and the colossi that are there. He 
 then proceeded to the two colossi. After a general survey 
 of the ruins, he seated himself before the famous battle 
 painted on the wall, and gave his opinion concerning it ; ob- 
 serving, it was impossible that the colouring could have been 
 done at the time the figures were made, as it was so fresh, 
 and the stones so much broken. Mr. Belzoni said, it was 
 owing to the climate of the country that these things were 
 preserved ; but he persisted in his opinion, that it was im- 
 j)ossible it could be so. Then, quitting his station, he seated 
 himself under the archway of the first entrance, and called 
 the Shiek of Gournou, whom he knew (o be their friend, and 
 
6C6 BKLZONI'S TRAVELS 
 
 who had received (he order the night before. The poor 
 Shiek, trembling all over at this call, was asked how many 
 men there were in Gournou who dug the ground in search 
 of mummies. The Shiek answered six or seven. It was 
 j)lain the Bey did not know what to do to gratify his spleen ; 
 and, as he could not avoid retracting the order, the poor 
 Shiek was to suffer. A diabolical thought came into his 
 head ; and he asked the Shiek if he could find in Gournou a 
 mummy that had not been opened. The Shiek answered, 
 that one might be found, if he gave him time to search ; but 
 the people who find them always open them instantly. On 
 this the Bey flew into a great rage, and insisted that one 
 should be found immediately ; and, if he did not find it, he 
 would give him the bastinado. The poor Shiek was ordered 
 to dig directly under his feel and take out a mummy ; but 
 he answered that the mummies were in Gournou, and none 
 were ever found in liie place where he stood ; and it was 
 well for him thai one of the attendants and a Cacheff con- 
 firmed what he said. The Bey then sent him to Gournou, 
 and told him to see that he found a mummy, in its case, and 
 unopened; and he allowed him an hour for doing it. The 
 poor Shiek attempted to speak, but was turned out by three 
 or four soldiers. They then went to Gournou, and under a 
 doum«tree saw the Shiek and some of the Janizaries, with 
 the mummy ready for his highness. Before he drew near to 
 ascertain the fact, the Bey began to cry out that he was sure 
 it had been opened by one of the fellows who search for 
 mummies ; and it was in vain he was told otherwise. None 
 could imagine things would be carried on to such an extreme. 
 That thr case had been opened no one could suspect; but 
 the Bey wanted a pretence to beat the poor Shiek for he'wv; 
 Mr. Belzoni's friend. Accordingly, he ordered him to be 
 immediately stretched on the ground ; and such a scene en- 
 sued, as drew from the Turks themselves expressions both of 
 displeasure and disgust. Mr. Belzoni endeavoured to inter- 
 cede for the unfortunate wretch, who all this time was under 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. GOT 
 
 the stick, but it was useless, as tbe more he entreated, the 
 more beating he received. The interpreter not reflecting 
 on what he did, ventured to intercede in the name of Mr. 
 Salt, the British consul, at which the Bey laughed. He 
 then begged in the name of his father-in-law, the Bashaw ; 
 and the Bey made answer, that he was the sole commander 
 in all business there ; adding, to the man who was punish- 
 iiiii: the Shiek, " Go on, go on, and hard, 
 
 Tiy this time the poor fellow was like the mummy that lay 
 by his side, deprived of sense and feeling ; and with a little 
 more beating would have remained there for ever, and been 
 buried where he lay. At last he told the man to stop, and 
 the miserable Shiek was carried to his cave as into his tomb ; 
 and was, indeed, more fit for the tomb than for a house. 
 The Bey then caused the mummy to be opened, and finding 
 nothing, he exclaimed, if they did not bring him one that was 
 entire, he would throw the Shiek into the river, 
 
 An order was sent, that they might have twenty men to 
 work for eight days. When Mr. Belzoni perceived that the 
 Bey did not stop, bespoke to the Cacheff, to use his influence, 
 that the order might be enforced ; but he seemed desirous of 
 evading it, as he was aware it was merely a pretext on the 
 part of the Bey. He says, I saw plainly, that we had 
 been^ calumniated to the Bey ; and the Cacheff protested, 
 tliat if it had been in his power, lie would have befriended us. 
 Accordingly I gave him to understand that it would be to his 
 Advantage to be friendly to our party, as well as to the other, 
 and that the Bey's enmity would not last much longer. 
 Mr. Belzoni said, it was some business which had prevented 
 the Consul from coming, who intended to bring with him 
 presents both to the Bey and the Cacheff, when all would be 
 set to rights again. At length, persuasions prevailed : and he 
 ordered the men to work ; and in a few days Mr. Belzoni 
 folleeted all the pieces of antiquity together on the quay of 
 Luxor ; and caused a mud wall to be made round them. 
 
 Various phenomena often happen in Egypt. The whirl* 
 
608 krlzonTs travki.s 
 
 winds occur all the year round, but especially at the time of 
 the camseen wind, which begins in April, and lasts fifty 
 days. Hence the name of camseen, which in Arabic signi- 
 fies fifty. It generally blows from the south-west, and lasts 
 four, five, or six days without varying, so very strong, that 
 it raises the sands to a great height, forming a general cloud, 
 so thick that it is impossible to keep the eyes open, if not 
 under cover. It is troublesome even to the Arabs; it forces 
 the sand into the houses through every cranny, and fills every 
 thing with it. The caravans cannot proceed in the deserts; 
 the boats cannot continue their voyages ; and the travellers 
 are obliged to eat sand in spite of their teeth. The whole is 
 like a chaos. Often a quantity of sand and small stones gra- 
 dually ascends to a great height, and forms a column sixty 
 or seventy feet in diameter, and so thick, that v/ere it steady 
 on one spot, it would appear a solid mass. This not only 
 revolves within its own circumference, but runs in a circular 
 direction over a great space of ground, sometimes maintain- 
 ing itself in motion for half an hour, and where it falls it 
 accumulates a small bill of sand. 
 
 The next phenomenon is the mirage, often described by 
 travellers, who assert having been deceived by it, as at 
 a distance it appears like water. It generally appears like 
 a still lake, so unmoved by the wind, that every thing above 
 is to be seen most distinctly reflected by it, which is the 
 principal cause of the deception. If the wind agitate any of 
 the plants that rise above the horizon of the mirage, he can- 
 not see through it, so that it appears to him clear water. 
 On approaching it, it becomes thinner, and appears as if 
 agitated by the wind, like a field of ripe corn. It gradually 
 vanishes as the traveller approaches, and at last entirely 
 disappears when he is on the spot. 
 
 The third phenomenon is the locusts. These animals 
 are seen in such clouds, that twice the number in the same 
 space would form an opaque mass, v/hich would wholly in- 
 tercept the rays of the sun, and cause complete darkness. 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 60D 
 
 They alight on fields of corn, or other vegetables, and in a 
 few minutes devour their whole produce. The natives 
 make a great noise to frighten thera away, but in vain ; 
 and, by way of retaliation, they catch and eat them when 
 fried, considering them a dainty repast. They are something 
 like the grasshopper in form, about two inches in length. 
 They are generally of a yellow or gold colour, but there are 
 some red and some green. 
 
 The work of the columns of a temple in the isle of Philoe, 
 is in a much lighter style than the old Egyptian, evincing 
 that nation would have improved gradually ; and in due 
 course of time, by amalgamating the Grecian elegance with 
 the vast and lofty magnificence of its own works of art, would 
 have formed an architecture of which we have no idea, but, 
 no doubt, most sublime. There are other proofs that this 
 temple is a more modern structure, formed of the materials 
 of an older edifice. In one of the columns, opposite the 
 gate in the portico which leads to the sanctuary, there is in 
 the centre, a stone, sculptured with hieroglyphics inverted; 
 and another stoqe of this kind is to be seen in the same 
 column on the west side, near the ground. The whole edifice 
 consists of two temples, nearly united together. A small 
 temple, dedicated to Isis, is within the peristyle of the 
 larger, which was dedicated to the same goddess, to Serapis, 
 and to the rest of the gods. The building faces the soutjj, 
 with a large portal or propylaeon, flanked by two porticoes 
 or colonnades, the capitals of the pillars of which are different 
 from each other. At the entrance of the first portal lies an 
 obelisk of granite, thrown down, its pedestal having a Greek 
 inscription on it, which is a complaint of the priests, addressed 
 to Ptolemy and Cleopatra, against the soldiers and the go- 
 vernment of that place, and proves that the Egyptian priests 
 had no influence in the government at that period. The In- 
 scription was discovered by an English traveller, Mr. Banks, 
 who, not having time to dig it out, left it, and Mr. Bcechey 
 took a copy of it. Fart of another obelisk and pedestal are 
 
 P. V. 2(>. 4 1 
 
610 
 
 to he sevn in the mu<i wall opjiositc. There are also two 
 lions, of grauite. 
 
 After passing the first portal is t\w entrance to tlie pro- 
 iiaos ; on the west of which is the small temple of Isis, sur- 
 rounded by square pillars, with the bead of the goddess as 
 the capital. The inner part consiints of three aparttuents : the 
 portieo, the ce1la, and the adytum. Tlie hieroglyphics on 
 it are nearly perfect, but alnoost covered with mud, as it has 
 served as a Greek chapel. On the east side of the pronaos 
 is a gallery with several cells, no doubt for the use of the 
 priests ; and the north is the second portal, covered with 
 colossal figures like the first. On pas«>ing this you con>e to 
 the portico, which is reckoned ihe most perfect and beautiful 
 part of this buildinj^. The hieroglyphics are entire and higlily 
 painted, as are tlie capitals ol the columns, which are ten in 
 number. The figures on the wall of this portico are all di- 
 vided into several groups, forming compartments of five feet 
 high ; those on the columns forming the ornaments of this 
 hall are highly beautiful. There are other rains on the west 
 of the island, which formed the entrance into the temple by 
 the water-side; and on the north-east are the remains of 
 three arches made by the Romans. The middle arch has 
 fallen down. On the key-stone the words** sanctum, sanctum, 
 eanctum," are cut; affording clear evidence, that this island 
 served as a holy seat not only to the Egyptians and Greeks, 
 but also to the Romans. There are marks of the whole tem- 
 ple having been fitted up for Christian worship. The walls 
 are eoyered with mud, to hide the hieroglyphics on them ; 
 and some figures peculiar to the Christian religion were 
 painted on this ; but time uncovered the hieroglyphics again, 
 as the mud lost its hold in several places. At the back of the 
 temple, or on the north side of it, are the foundations of a 
 building that served for a Greek church, and was formed of 
 the stones from the ruins of the other buildings, as is obvious 
 from the hieroglyphics on them. This island is perhaps the 
 most superb group of ruins ever beheld together in so small a 
 
IN KGVrr AND NUBIA. 61 1 
 
 space of ground. The whole island, which is not more than 
 a thousand feet in length, and less than five hundred in 
 breadth, is richly covered with ruins; and being detached 
 from the other barren islands which surround it at some dis- 
 tance, has a very superb appearance. 
 
 In a valley to the westward of Beban el Malook Mr. 
 Belzoni found that the Egyptians had a particular manner of 
 forming the entrance into their tombs, which gave him many 
 leading ideas to the discovery of them. Besides, the suppo- 
 sition that many of these tombs must have been buried under 
 the stones and rubbish, which continually fall from the moun- 
 tains, the great quantity of materials cut out of the tomb ac- 
 cumulated in considerable heaps in different parts in the val- 
 ley, might give various suggestions of the spots where the 
 entrance to the tombs was to be found, as is justly observed 
 by Mr. Hamilton. 
 
 He set men to work near a hundred yards from tbe tomfr 
 which he discovered the year before ; and when they had got tt 
 little below the surface, they came to some large stones, which' 
 had evidently been put there by those who closed the tomb. 
 Having removed these stones, he perceived the rock bad 
 been cut on both sides, and found a passage leading dewff- 
 wards. He could proceed no farther that day, as the men 
 were much fatigued, and he had more than four miles to re- 
 turn to Thebes. The next day they resumed their labour, and 
 in a few hours came to a well-built wall of stones of various 
 sizes. The following day he caused a large pole to be brought, 
 and by means of another sm.all piece of palm-tree laid across 
 the entrance, he made a machine not unlike a battering-ram. 
 The walls resisted the blows of the Arabs for some time, but 
 they contrived to make a breach at last, and in this way the 
 opening was enlarged. Mr. Belzoni and his party immedi- 
 ately entered, and found themselves on a staircase, eight feet 
 wide and ten (eet high, at the bottom of which were four 
 mummies, in their cai^es, lying flat on the ground with their 
 
 4 12 
 
C12 BELZONI'S TRAVELS 
 
 heads toward the outside. Farther on were faur more lying 
 in the same direction. The cases were all painted^ and one 
 had a large covering thrown over it, exactly like the pall 
 upon the coffins of the present day. 
 
 He went through the operation of examiuiiig all these 
 mummies one by one. They were much alike in their fbld- 
 iugs, except that which had the painted linen over it. 
 Among the others he found one, that had new linen appa- 
 rently put over the old rags; which proves, that the 
 Egyptians took great care of their dead, even for many 
 years after their decease. That which was distinguished 
 from all the rest, was dressed in a finer linen, and more neatly 
 wrapped up. It had garlands of flowers and leaves, and on 
 the side over the heart was a plate of metal, soft like lead, 
 covered with another metal, not unlike silver leaf. It had 
 the eyes of a cow, which so often represents Isis, engraved 
 on it ; and in the centre of the breast was another plate, 
 with the winged globe. Both plates were nearly six inches 
 long. On unfolding the linen, they found it very fine, 
 which was not the case with the other mummies ; for, after 
 three or four foldings, it was generally of a coarser kind. 
 At last came the body, of which nothing is to be seen but 
 the bones, which had assumed a yellow tint. The case was 
 in part painted ; but the linen cloth covering it fell to pieces 
 as soon as it was touched, owing to the paint that was on 
 it, which consisted of various devices and flowers. The 
 cases were sunk four inches into the cement already men- 
 tioned. Some of the painting on the inside of the cases ap- 
 peared quite fresh, as if recently done ; and there was gene- 
 rally a coat of varnish. For what purpose this tomb might 
 have been intended, cannot be said, perhaps it was origi- 
 nally designed for one of the royal blood. It appeared by the 
 entrance to have been commenced on a scale similar to those 
 of the kings ; though it seems to have been finished for a 
 more humble family. 
 
 The result of the researches gave all the satisfaction de- 
 
!N EGYPT AND NUBIA. (ii3 
 
 sired, of finding mummies in cases, in their original position : 
 but this was not the principal object ; for, as he was near 
 the place where the kings of Egypt were buried, he thought 
 he might have a chance of discovering some of their relics. 
 
 The sacred valley, named Beban el Malook, begins at 
 Gournou, runs towards the south-west, and gradually turns 
 due south. It contains the celebrated tombs of the kings of 
 Egypt, and divides itself into two different branches, one of 
 wiiich runs two miles farther to the westward, making five 
 miles from the Nile to the extremity. The other, which con- 
 tarns most of the tombs, is separated from Gournou only by 
 a high chain of rocks, which can be crossed from Thebes in 
 less than an hour. The same rocks surround the sacred 
 ground, which can be visited only by a single natural en- 
 trance, that is formed like a gateway, or by the craggy paths, 
 across the mountains. The tombs are all cut out of the so- 
 lid rock, which is of calcareous stone, as white as it is possible 
 for a stone to be. They consist in general of a long square 
 passage, which leads to a staircase, sometimes with a gallery 
 at each side of it, and other chambers. Advancing farther 
 they came to wider apartments, and other passages and stairs, 
 and at last into a large hall, where the great sarcophagus lay, 
 which contained the remains of the kings. Some of these 
 tombs are quite open, and others incumbered with rubbish 
 at the entrance. Nine or ten may be reckoned of a superior 
 class, and five or six of a lower order. Strabo may have 
 counted eighteen, as may be done to this day, including 
 some of an inferior class, which cannot be esteemed as tombs 
 of the kings of Egypt from any other circumstance, than that 
 of having been placed in this valley. 
 
 Mr. Belzoni says in his opinion the tombs in the valley of 
 Beban el Malook were erected subsequently to those in 
 Gournou; for he could scarcely find a spot in the latter 
 place adapted to the excavation of another of the great 
 tombs, and it may be supposed, that when all the best spots 
 for large tombs in Gournou had been occupied, the Egyp. 
 
614 BKLZONI*S TRAVELS 
 
 tiaiis went over the rocks to seek another situation in which to 
 deposit their kings. Certain it is, that the tombs in the val- 
 ley of Beban el Malook are in far better condition than those 
 at Gournou. 
 
 On the 11th of October, they went to see the tombs in 
 Gournou, and the temple in the valley behind Memnonium. 
 A tomb discovered the day before was opened, so that they 
 might enter it. On this they took the road over the rocks 
 immediately, and arrived in less than three quarters of an 
 hour. Having proceeded through a passage thirty-two feet 
 long, and eight feet wide, they descended a staircase twen- 
 ty-eight feet, and reached a tolerably large and well-painted 
 room. They found a sarcophagus of granite, with two 
 mummies in it, and in a corner a statue standing erect, six 
 feet six inches high, and beautifully cut out of sycamore- 
 wood : it is nearly perfect except the nose. They found 
 also a number of little images of wood, well carved, repre- 
 senting symbolical figures. Some had a lion's head, others 
 a fox's, others a monkey's. One had a land-tortoise instead 
 of a head. They found a calf with the head of a hippopota- 
 mus. At each end of this chamber is a smaller one, eight 
 feet wide, and seven feet long ; and at the end of it is ano- 
 tlier chamber, ten feet long by seven wide. In the chamber 
 on the right hand they found another statue like the first, but 
 not perfect. No doubt they had been placed one on each 
 side of the sarcophagus, holding a lamp or some offering in 
 their hands, one hand being stretched out in the proper pos- 
 ture to hold something, and the other hanging down. The 
 sarcophagus was covered with hieroglyphics merely painted, 
 or outlined : it faces south-east by east. 
 
 On the 13th of October they caused some spots of ground 
 to be dug at Gournou, and they succeeded in opening a 
 mummy-pit, so that they had the satisfaction of seeing a 
 pit just opened, and receiving clear ideas of the manner in 
 which the mummies are found, though all tombs are not 
 alike. It was a small one, and cousifted of two rooms 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUEIA. G15 
 
 painted all over, but not in the best style. It appeared that 
 the tomb belonged to some warrior, as there were a great 
 number of men enrolling themselves for soldiers, and another 
 writing their names in a book. There were also several 
 other figures, &c. In the lower apartment they saw the 
 mummies lying here and there, without any regularity. To 
 all appearance therefore this pit had been opened by the 
 Greeks or some other people, to plunder it. 
 
 Mr. Belzoni after repeated attempts made an entrance into 
 a new Pyramid. An Arab then entered with a candle, and 
 returned saying, that the place within was very fine. Mr. 
 Belzoni at last made the entrance large enough to squeeze 
 himself in ; and after thirty days exertion he had the plea- 
 sure of finding the way to the central chamber of one of the 
 two great pyramids in Egypt, which have long been the ad- 
 miration of beholders. He entered a passage twenty-two 
 feet seven inches long, and the works including the port- 
 cullis occupy six feet eleven inches in all. Where the gra- 
 nite work finishes at the end of the passage, there is a per- 
 pendicular shaft of fifteen feet, and at each side of the pas- 
 sage, an excavation in the solid rock, one of which, on the 
 right as you enter, runs thirty feet in an upward direction, 
 approaching the end of the lower part of the forced passage. 
 Before them they had a long passage running in an horizon- 
 tal direction toward the centre. They descended the shaft 
 by means of a rope. At the bottom Mr. Belzoni perceived ano- 
 ther passage running downward at the same angle of 20° as 
 that above, and toward the nortli. As his first object was 
 the centre of the pyramid, he advanced that way, and ascended 
 an inclined passage which brought him to an horizontal one, 
 that led toward the centre : he observed, that after they en- 
 tered within the portcullis, the passages were all cut out of the 
 solid rock. The passage leading toward the centre is five 
 feet eleven inches high, and three feet six inches wide. 
 
 Mr. Belzoni says, as they advanced they found the 
 sides of this passage covered with arborizations of nitre; 
 
61G BELZONl'S TRAVELS 
 
 some projecting in ropes, some not unlike the skin of a 
 white lamb, and others so long as to resemble an endive 
 leaf. He reached the door at the centre of a large chamber. 
 He walked slowly two or three paces, and then stood still 
 to contemplate the place where he was. Whatever it might 
 be, he certainly considered himself in the centre of that py- 
 ramid, which from time immemorial had been the subject 
 of the obscure conjectures of many hundred travellers, both 
 ancient and modern. His torch, formed of a few wax can- 
 dles, gave but a faint light; he could, however, clearly 
 distinguish the principal objects. He naturally turned his 
 eyes to the west end of the chamber, looking for the sarco- 
 phagus, which he strongly expected to see in the same situ- 
 ation as that in the first pyramid ; but he was disappointed 
 wlien he saw nothing there. The chamber has a pointed 
 or sloping ceiling; and many of the stones had been removed 
 from their places, evidently by some one in search of trea- 
 sure. On his advancing toward the west end, he was 
 agreeably surprised to find, that there was a sarcophagus 
 buried on a level with the floor. 
 
 By this time Chevalier Frediani had entered a.so; and 
 they took a general survey of the chamber, which Mr. Bel- 
 zoni found to be forty-six feet three inches long, sixteen feet 
 three inches wide, and twenty- three feet six inches high. It 
 is out out of the solid rock from the floor to the roof, which is 
 composed of large blocks of calcareous stone, meeting in the 
 centre, and forming a roof of the same slope as the pyramid 
 itself. The sarcophagus is eight feet long, three feet six 
 inches wide, and two feet three inches deep in the inside. 
 It is surrounded by large blocks of granite, apparently to 
 prevent its removal, which could not be eff'ected without 
 great labour. The lid had been removed at the side, so that 
 the sarcophagus was half open. It is of the finest granite; 
 but, like the other in the first pyramid, there is not one hie- 
 roglyphic on it. 
 
 Looking at the inside, he perceived a great quantity of 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 617 
 
 earth and stones, but did not observe the bones among the 
 rubbish till the next day, as his intention was principally 
 bA^nt in search of some inscription that would throw light 
 on the subject of this pyramid. They examined every part 
 of the walls, and observed many scrawls executed with 
 charcoal, but in unknown characters, and nearly impercep- 
 tible. They rubbed off into dust at the slightest touch ; and 
 on the wall at the west end of the chamber he perceived an 
 inscription in Arabic. 
 
 The following is a translation of the Inscription by 
 Mr, Salame. 
 
 ^' The Master Mohammed Ahmed, lapicide, has opened 
 them ; and the Master Othman attended this (opening) ; 
 and tlie King Alij Mohammed at first (from the beginning) 
 lo the closing up." 
 
 Mr. Belzoni adds, that the circumstances of the pyramid 
 having been again closed up agrees with what he has said 
 of his finding it so. 
 
 It appears, that in the time of Herodotus as little was known 
 of the second pyramid as before the late opening, with this 
 exception, that in his time the second pyramid was nearly 
 in the state in which it was left when closed by the builders, 
 who must have covered the entrance with a coating so that 
 it might not be perceived. At the time Mr. Belzoni was fortu- 
 nate enough to find his way into it, the entrance was con- 
 cealed by the rubbish of the coating, which must have been 
 nearly perfect at the time of Herodotus. 
 
 The circumstance of having chambers and a sarcophagus 
 (which undoubtedly contained the remains of some great 
 personage), so uniform with those in the other pyramid, 
 leaves no question but that they were erected as sepulchres ; 
 and it is a wonder, that any doubt has ever existed, consi- 
 dering what could be learned from the first pyramid, which 
 has been so long open. This contains a spacious chamber 
 
 P. V. 26. 4 K 
 
QXB JJfiLZONl'S TRAVELS 
 
 with a sarcophat^u« ; tlie passages are of such dimensions as 
 to admit nothing larger than the sarcophagus ; they had 
 been closely shut up by large blocks ol" granite from within, 
 evidently to prevent the removal of that lelic. Ancient au- 
 tljors are pretty well agreed in asserting, that these monu- 
 ments were erected to contain the remains of two brothers, 
 Cheops and Cephren, kings of Egypt. They are surrounded 
 by other smaller pyramids intermixed with mausoleums on 
 burial-grounds. Many mummy pits have been continually 
 found there ; yet with all these proofs, it has been asserted, 
 that they were erected for many other purposes than the true 
 one, and nearly as absurd as that they served for granaries. 
 
 Some consider them as built for astronomical purposes, 
 but there is nothing in their construction to favour this sup- 
 position. Others maintain, that they were meant for thei 
 j>erforraance of holy ceremonies by the Egyptian priests. 
 Any thing, in short, for the sake of contradiction, or to ha^e 
 something new to say, finds its advocate. If the ancient au- 
 thors had advanced, that they were erected for treasuries, 
 the moderns would have agreed perhaps, more in confor- 
 mity with the truth, that they were made for sepulchres ; and 
 they would not have failed to see plainly those circumstances, 
 which clearly proves the facts, and which are not noticed as 
 they ought to be. It will be agreed that the Egyptians, in 
 erecting these enormous masses, did not fail to make their 
 sides due north and south, and consequently, as they are 
 square, due east and west. Their inclination too is such 
 as to give light to the north side at the time of the sols- 
 tice. But even all this does not prove in the least, (hat 
 they were erected for astronomical purposes ; though it is 
 to be observed, that the Egyptians connected astro- 
 nomy with their religious ceremonies, as various zodiacs 
 were found, not only among the temples, but in their tai>ubs 
 also. 
 
 By the measurement of the second pyramid it was as 
 folluws : 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 619 
 
 Feet. 
 
 The basis 684 
 
 Apotoroe or central line down the front, from 
 the top to the basis .... 568 
 
 Perpendicular 450 
 
 Coating from the top to the place where it ends 1 40 
 
 Mr. Belzoni now again proceeded to Thebes, and on ar- 
 riving at Siout went to the Bey. He was about a mile out 
 of town, exercising his soldiers and young Mamelukes in 
 gunnery and horsemanship. The cannon exercise was with 
 balls against the rocks ; and they were better marksmen 
 than he expected to find among soldiers without discipline. 
 The Bey fired himself at the same mark with two balls in 
 one barrel of an English gun, of which some one in Cairo 
 had made him a present. He liked it extremely ; and ob- 
 served, ** These guns may become offensive to their makers 
 some day or other,'* After the cannon exercise, they be- 
 gan to fire at an earthen pot placed on a kind of pedestal 
 of about six feet high. They commence their course at two 
 hundred feet from it ; ride towards it at full gallop ; at the 
 distance of fifty-feet drop the bridle, take their gun, and fire 
 at the pot while at full speed. The horse is so accustomed 
 to this, that, before he reaches the stand on which the pot 
 is, he wheels to the right, to make room for the next in the 
 course. It is a very difficult matter to hit a small pot about 
 a foot high, while the horse is running with all speed. In 
 about two hundred shots only six pots were broken : the fa?- 
 vourite Mameluke of the Bey, a lad of twelve years old, 
 broke three. He had the best horse belonging to the Bey, 
 and went as near the pot as the length of a gun and a h.ilf. 
 Two other Mamelukes broke one each at a good distance, 
 and one was broken by the Bey himself, for which he re- 
 ceived of course great praise from all his subjects. 
 
 At four o'clock Mr. Belzoni went to his palace. He v/ac. 
 sitting on a very high armed chair, a fashion not common 
 
 4 K 2 
 
620 BELZONl'S TRAVELS 
 
 among the. Turks ; though he did not sit like an European, 
 but in a Turkish manner, with his legs up. Here he had an 
 opportunity of being present at a trial upon life or death. 
 The case was this : a soldier belonging to the Bey had been 
 found dead upon the road near the village to Acmin^ with 
 his throat cut, and several marks of violence upon his body. 
 He was on his return from Mecca, where he had been on a 
 pilgrimage. His camel was found dead near the door of a 
 peasant, and it was supposed that he had a great deal of 
 money about him. He was seen in the house of the peasant, 
 near which the camel was found, in company with seven 
 other men, among whom was a Bedoween. The soldiers of 
 the village, who took the prisoners into custody, asserted, 
 that the prisoners had assisted the Bedoween in making his 
 escape ; and the Sheik of the same village affirmed, that one 
 of them said he knew where to find him at any time. Se- 
 veral witnesses were examined, but no one gave any evi- 
 dence that could bring the facts home to the supposed cul- 
 prits. 
 
 One point, however, was very much against one of them, 
 and this was, his countenance did not please the Bey; for 
 no sooner did the Bey set his eyes on the poor fellow, than 
 he exclaimed, " O ho ! the case is evident ! I see plainly 
 who is the murderer : look at that man ; can there be any 
 doubt but it was he committed the crime ? So own at once 
 that you did it, for denial will be useless ; I see it in your 
 face 1'* Several witnesses came forward to prove, that the 
 peasant, in whose house the soldier was, could have had no- 
 thing to do with it, as he was not in the town at that time. 
 Witnesses in this country are rather more exact in their de- 
 positions than those of Europe, for they do not get off so ea- 
 sily. To make them impartial they generally get so severe 
 a bastinado on the soles of their feet^ that all the flesh is off 
 to the bones, and they are unable to walk for a long time af- 
 ter. A thousand blows is reckoned a moderate number for 
 a witness to receive. It was said, afterward, that several of 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 621 
 
 those supposed to be concerned in the murder, had their 
 heads cut off. 
 
 Mr. Belzoni again commenced his operations near Thebes, 
 and having observed, that the part where the sekos and 
 cella must be was not touched, he &et the men to work there, 
 and on the second day of his researches came to a large sta> 
 tue, which proved to be the finest of the kind yet found. It 
 is a sitting figure of a man, in all points resembling the 
 great colossus of Memnon. It is nearly ten feet high, and 
 of the most beautiful Egyptian workmanship. The stone 
 is grey granite, and has the peculiarity of having particles 
 in it of a colour not unlike that of the substance gene- 
 rally known by the name of Dutch metal. Part of its 
 chin and beard have been knocked oif, but all the rest is 
 quite perfect. In the same ground he found several lion- 
 headed statues, like those in Carnak, some sitting and some 
 standing. 
 
 Between two colossal statues and the portico of the 
 temple is an enormous colossus, thrown down and buried, 
 all but the back of its chair, which is broken in two about 
 the middle. It was one of his principal objects to uncover 
 it, but he never had an opportunity. Among the columns 
 of the portico were found a great many fragments of colos- 
 sal statues of granite, breccia, and calcareous stones ; and 
 from the great number of fragments of small dimensions, 
 and of standing and sitting lion-headed statues, these ruins 
 appear to have belonged to the most magnificent temple of 
 any on the west side of Thebes. 
 
 Mr. Belzoni took many impressions of the principal figures 
 in basso relievo. The wax alone he found would not stand^ 
 as the climate would not permit it ; but with wax, resin, and 
 fine dust, he made an excellent composition. The greatest 
 difficulty was to take the impression of the figure without 
 injuring the colours of it. The figures were as large as life, 
 in all a hundred and eighty-two : those of a smaller size, 
 from one to three feet, could not be less than eight hundred. 
 
()22 BELZONl'S TRAVELS 
 
 The hieroglyphics are nearly five hundred, of which he took 
 a faithful copy, with their colours ; they are of four different 
 sizes, from one to six inches ; so that he was obliged to take 
 one of each size, which makes nearly two thousand in all. 
 
 At the latter end of June tliey had a visit from Mr. Briggs, 
 on his return from India. He brought with him from that 
 country the pine-apple and the mango, some of which he 
 bad planted in the garden of the Aga at Kenneh, and some 
 be tried to cultivate at Thebes. The mango at Kenneh 
 turned out very well ; but those which were planted in 
 Thebes died, from want of care. 
 
 After this Mr. Belzoni ceased all sorts of researches, as 
 Mr. Drouetti and others claimed the privilege of opening 
 different places themselves. Having communicated his in- 
 tentions of taking a journey to the Red Sea to Mr. Beechey, 
 he resolved to go also, and Mr. Ricci, a medical gentleman, 
 alsx) proposed to accompany them. 
 
 They set sail on the 16th of September, 1818. The 
 company consisted of Mr. Beechey, the tloctor, and Mr. 
 Belzoni, two Greek servants, a miner, and two boys 
 from Gournou, who were hired to take care of the luggage 
 in the desert 
 
 The Nile rose this season three feet and a half above the 
 highest mark left by the former inundation, with uncommon 
 rapidity, and carried off several villages and some hundred 
 of their inhabitants. 
 
 The Arabs had expected an extraordinary inundation 
 this year, in consequence of the scarcity of water the pre- 
 ceding season ; but they did not apprehend it would rise 
 to such a height. They generally erect fences of earth and 
 reeds around their villages, to keep the water from their 
 houses ; but the force of this inundation baffled all their 
 efforts. Their cottages, being built of earth, could not 
 stand one instant against the current, and no sooner did 
 the water reach them, than it levelled them with the ground. 
 The rapid stream carried ofi' all that was before it ; men, 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. G23 
 
 women, children, cattle, corn, every thing was washed 
 awuy in an instant, and left the place where the village 
 stood without any thing to indicate that there had ever been 
 a house on the spot. It is not the case, as is generally sup- 
 posed, that all the villages of Egypt are raised so high 
 above the general level of the ground, that the water can- 
 not reach them ; on the contrary, most of those in Upper 
 Egypt are little if any thing higher than the rest of the 
 ground, and the only way they have to keep off the water 
 on the rise of the Nile, is by artificial fences made of earth 
 and reeds. 
 
 The first village they came to was Agalta, whither they 
 went not merely to see the place but to desire the Cai- 
 makan to send a soldier to guard the tombs, in addition to 
 the Arabs, who were left there. He expected to be 
 washed away by the Nile. There was no boat in this village ; 
 and should the water break down their weak fences, the 
 only chance of escape was by climbing the palm-trees, till 
 Providence sent some one to their relief. All the boats 
 were employed in carrying away the corn, from villages 
 that were in danger. Both in Upper and Lower Egypt 
 the men, women and children are left to be last assisted, as 
 their lives are not so valuable as corn, which brings money 
 to the Bashaw. As this village was then four feet below the 
 water, the poor Fellahs were on the watch day and night 
 round their fences. They employed their skin machines or 
 bags to throw the water out again which rose from under 
 the ground ; but if their fences should be broken down all 
 was lost. 
 
 On the 17th several villages were in great danger of 
 being destroyed. The rapid stream had carried away the 
 fences, and their unfortunate inhabitants were obliged to 
 escape to higher grounds, where it was possible, with what 
 they could save from the water. The distress of these 
 people was great. Some of them had only a few feet of 
 land, and the water was to rise twelve days more, and 
 
G24 BELZONl'S TRAVELS 
 
 after that to remain twelve days at its height, according to 
 the usual term of the inundation. Fortunate was he who 
 could reach high ground. Some crossed the water on pieces 
 of wood, some on buffaloes or cows, and others with reeds 
 tied up in large bundles. The small spots of high grx)und 
 that stood above the water, formed so many sanctuaries for 
 tliese poor refugees, and were crowded witli people and 
 beasts. The scanty stock of provisions they could save 
 was the only subsistence they could expect. In some parts 
 the water had left scarcely any dry ground, and no relief 
 could be hoped till four and twenty days had elapsed. 
 The Cacheffs and Caimakans of the country did all they 
 could to assist the villages with their little boats, but they 
 were so small in proportion to what was wanted, that they 
 could not relieve the greater part of the unfortunate peo- 
 ple. It was distressing to behold these poor wretches in 
 such a situation. On arriving at Erments, where fortu- 
 nately the land is very high, they found many of the neigh- 
 bouring people collected, employing the boat to fetch the 
 people from an opposite village. The Caimakan set off 
 himself with another boat, and in the course of an hour he 
 returned with several men and boys. He sent the boats 
 again, and they returned loaded with men, corn, and cattle. 
 The third trip brought still more corn, buffaloes, sheep, 
 goats, asses, and dogs. The fourth voyage was employed 
 in fetching the women, as the last and most insignificant of 
 their property, whose loss would have been less regretted 
 than that of the cattle. This circumstance will convince 
 the European fair sex of their superiority over the Turks 
 and Arabs, at least in point of due respect to them. 
 
 The party was now increased by a soldier from Esne, 
 four camel- drivers, and a Sheik to guide, making in all 
 twelve men. They had sixteen camels, six of which were 
 laden with provisions, water, culinary utensils, &c. 
 
 In the morning of the 23rd they set out very early, and 
 arrived at the first well in three hours. Several of the 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. flft5 
 
 Ababde nation canae to water their cattle at the well, but 
 kept at a distance. They live scattered about in the rocks 
 and little valleys amon^ the mountains, but occasionally 
 assenable together in a few minutes. To pass this place 
 without a good understanding with their Sheik for security 
 would be imprudent and dangerous. 
 
 On the 24th they set off pretty well. The valley af- 
 forded a very level and good road. At the entrance of 
 this valley stands a high rock, on tho left of which is a 
 small Egyptian temple. To this they directed their 
 course, and arrived at it six hours after setting off from the 
 well in the morning. 
 
 It was adorned with Egyptian figures in intaglio re- 
 lievato, and some retain their colour pretty well. They 
 are as large as life, and not of the worst execution. In 
 the sekos, which is cut out of the rocks, are four pilasters. 
 At the end of it are three small chambers ; and there are 
 two others, one on each side, in the corner of the lateral 
 walls, on which are to be seen figures and hieroglyphics in 
 a pretty good style. On one of the columns they observed 
 a Greek inscription. Near the temple are the remains of 
 an enclosure, which no doubt was a station for the cara- 
 vans. It was built by the Greeks, is twelve feet high, 
 and contained several houses within it for the accommo. 
 dation of travellers. In the centre was a well, which is 
 now filled up with sand. All round the wall there is a plat- 
 form or gallery, raised six feet high, on which a guard of 
 soldiers might walk all round. On the upper part of the 
 wall are holes for discharging arrows, similar to those 
 formed in our ancient buildings for the same purpose. The 
 sides of the gateways are built of calcareous stones and the 
 wall is of bricks. 
 
 On the 25th, they continued their journey. No vegetation 
 of any sort was to be seen any where. Sometimes they 
 passed over wide and level plains, and sometimes crossed 
 rugged hills, till two hours before sun-set, when they 
 
 P. V. 27. 4 L 
 
606 belzonTs travels 
 
 entered the valley called Beezak by the Arabs. At this place 
 Mr. Ricci, the doctor, was attacked with a violent dis- 
 order, and it was decided that he should return the next 
 morning, as it would increase if he advanced farther in the 
 desert. 
 
 FroDQ this place they travelled to the valley where it was 
 intended to halt. The caravan had reached the place an 
 hour before. Here they found two wells, one of sah water, 
 and the other quite putrid and brackish. There are few 
 waters in the worid better than that of the Nile ; and now 
 to have to drink the worst was such a change in one day, that 
 they could not help feeling the consequences of it. Mr. 
 Beechey was tafeen very ill, from drinking at the first well, 
 and they had great apprehension of the next, which was 
 worse. They had provisions for a month, but the fresh 
 meat was gone, and it was with difficulty they could procure 
 a very lean goat. The tribe of this country are all Ababde, 
 and extend from the confines of Suez to the tribe of 
 Bishareiu, on the coast of the Red Sea, below the latitude 
 of 23®. The manner of this race show them to be lovers of 
 freedom : they prefer living among these solitary rocks and 
 deserts, where they eat nothing but dhourra and drink 
 water, before submission to the commands of any govern- 
 ment on eartli. It is a great feast among them when they 
 take the resolution of killing a lean goat, but they eat it 
 without fearing that any rapacious hands should take it from 
 them. A man of this stamp, accustomed to liberty and 
 independance, would naturally find himself as in a prison, 
 if under the controul of even the best of governments. 
 Their greatest <jare is for their camels, which are their sup- 
 port. They breed them up to a certain growth, and then 
 send them to be exchanged for dhourra, which constitutes 
 their food. The camels, as well as other animals, live upon 
 the common thorn plants, which is the most abundant to be 
 found in the country. Some of the most industrious of the 
 Ababde cut wood, and make charcoal with it, which th-ey 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 627 
 
 send to the Nile on camels, and barter it for dhourra, tallow, 
 and tent cloth. Few, however, undergo such a labour, 
 for they like to live at their ease. A pipe of tobacco is a 
 luxury, and a piece of a fat ram quite raw a great dainty. 
 They are all nearly naked, badly made, and of small sta- 
 ture. They have fine eyes, in particular the women, as 
 far as we could see of those that came to the wells. The 
 married women are covered, the rest uncovered. The 
 head-dresses are very curious. Some are proud of having 
 hair long enough to reach below their ears, and there 
 formed into curls which are so entangled that it would be 
 impossible to pass a comb through them, therefore the wo- 
 men never use such an instrument. When they kill a sheep 
 that has any fat, which is very seldom, they grease their 
 heads all over, and leave the fat in *inall pieces to be 
 melted by the sun, which makes them appear as if they 
 had powder on their heads ; and this lasts for several days, 
 till the sun melts the whole, and produces an exquisite 
 odour for those who have a good nose. As iheir hair is 
 very crispy, their headiv remain dressed for a long time.; 
 and that they may not derange their coiffure when their 
 heads itch, they have a piece of wood something like a 
 packing needle, with which they scratch themselves with 
 great ease, without disordering their head-dress, of which 
 they are very proud. Their complexions are naturally of 
 a dark chocolate ; their hair quite black ; their teeth fine and 
 white, protuberant, and very large. 
 
 In the winter all the scattered Ababde in the mountains 
 assemble together here, and if any marriage takes place, it 
 is at this time. It is always performed with due ceremony. 
 The bridegroom first sends a camel to the father of the 
 bride. If this be accepted, he applies personally to herself, 
 in the presence of one man as a witness. If she consent, 
 the day of marriage is appointed, before which the lover 
 does not see his bride for seven days. On the eighth she is 
 presented to him in the tent of her father. This day in 
 
 4 L 2 
 
628 BELZONfS TRAVELS 
 
 celebrated by killins^ some of their lean sheep, and by camel 
 races. The next day the happy couple retire to the tent of 
 the bridegroom. If the man becomes tired of his wife, he 
 sends her back with the same camel which he sent to her 
 father, as this is her own from the time of the marriage. 
 The mother of the bride must not speak a word to the bride- 
 groom as long as she lives : a regulation intended to pre- 
 vent her from making mischief between the young couple. 
 
 When a child is born, the next day the father kills a sheep 
 and gives the child a name. When they are sick, they say 
 hulla kerinif and lie down till they are better, or till they 
 die. There were old men that did not know nor could 
 tell their age, as they keep no account of such things ; but 
 by appearance they must have been ninety years old. When 
 any one dies, they dig a hole in the ground, and put the 
 corpse into it, and very often on the spot where the person 
 died, and then remove their tents a little farther on. They 
 never intermarry with any but their own people. A girl had 
 been refused in marriage to a Turkish Cacheff, though she 
 was as poor as any of her tribe. The Cacheff attempted to 
 use force, and the consequence was, that they assembled to 
 the number of above three hundred, and he prudently re- 
 tired, leaving his intended bride to be married to her cousin. 
 
 Some of these wild people, as they are called, came to 
 the well in the course of the day, and as they saw the party 
 quiet and peaceful, they ventured, at the persuasion of the 
 drivers, to approach. A few of them had been as far as the 
 Nile to purchase dhourra, and these were accounted men of 
 knowledge, but the greater part had never q^iitted their 
 mountains. One of them seeing a piece of lemon-peel lying 
 on the ground, wondered what it was ; and another who 
 had been to the Nile, to shew his great knowledge of things, 
 took it up, and ate it with an air of self-sufficiency. They 
 gave them a piece of loaf-sugar, and when they bad eaten 
 it, they declared, that their valley must be better than their 
 own, as it produced such good and sweet bread. When 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. (>iX) 
 
 they buy dhourra they generally get it ground with the 
 usual hand millstone in the village where they buy it, and 
 carry the flour into the desert. Their bread is baked under 
 the ashes, and is in the form of a large cake, without leaven 
 or salt. Their great enemies were the tribe of El Mahasa 
 and Banousy, which dwell from between Suez to the inte- 
 rior of Arabia and the confines of Syria. With these tribes 
 they had had many battles, but it appeared, that neither one 
 nor the other advanced beyond their old possessions. They 
 had also been at variance with the Bishareines on the south, 
 but were now at peace with them all. 
 
 On the 29th they saw the Red Sea at a great distance, 
 and having entered a range of mountains, stopped at a place 
 called Owell, or place of the dragon. 
 
 On the 30th they set off early, bent their course to the 
 south-south-west, and passed through several valleys, to- 
 wards a very high mountain called Zubara^ a name given 
 to it in consequence of the emeralds which have been 
 found there. At the foot of this mountain about fifty men 
 were encamped, and at work in the old mines of the anci- 
 ents, in hopes of finding some of the precious stones : but 
 it appeared, that their predecessors had searched pretty well 
 before they quitted their works. These unfortunate wretches 
 receive a supply of provisions fron*. the Nile, but some- 
 times it did not arrive in due time, and great famine of 
 course prevails among them. There are two small wells, not 
 more than half a day's journey distant, and one of them had 
 a tolerably good quantity of water. Their work had com- 
 menced ab(^ut »ix months before, but had been attended with 
 no success. The mines or excavations of the ancients were 
 all choked up with the rubbish of the upper part that had 
 fallen in, and the labour to remove this rubbish was great^ 
 for the holes were very small, scarcely capable of contain- 
 ing the body of a man crawling like a cameleon. They were 
 all thoroughly tired of their situation. They rose several 
 times against their leaders, and in one instance two of them 
 
630 BELZONl'S TRAVELS 
 
 were killed. On the day the party were there one of the 
 poor wretches nearly fell a victim to the avaricious caprice 
 of their powerful employer. As he was penetrating into one 
 of the holes, part of the roof fell down upon him, and not 
 only cut off his retreat, but nearly killed him on the spot. 
 He was fortunately taken out alive, but it did not give much 
 encouragement to the rest. 
 
 Having procured an old man from among the natives to 
 guide to the ruins of Berenice, they prepared for departure 
 on the next morning, the 1st of October, 
 
 The road was mong th high rocks, and in very narrow 
 valleys, but in which tuere were a great number of trees. 
 Here they were led by the old man in various directions 
 through wild and craggy places for seven hours. At length, 
 about noon, the valley opened all at once, and at the dis- 
 tance of five miles they saw the Arabian gulf. The sight of 
 an open horizon, after the contracted view of a long and 
 narrow valley, was much welcomed. On reaching the shore, 
 they plunged into the sea like the crocodiles into the Nile, 
 and found that a bathe after along journey was very refresh- 
 ing. They had no time to lose, as their biscuit, as they 
 calculated, would last only seventeen days, and not an hour 
 longer. ^ 
 
 In some rocks that lay at the foot of the mountains facing 
 the Red Sea, they saw several mines of sulphur, but it was a 
 doubt whether their produce would be advantageous, owing 
 to their situation. They are near the sea, but the convey- 
 ance by land to the Nile would prevent any benefit from the 
 speculation. They made some repast on some shell-fisli, 
 which abound in great quantities along the coast. The large 
 periwinkles are excellent, and, when young, are very ten- 
 der and delicious, particularly to a hungry man. Some of 
 them weighed half a pound, and part of the tail was quite 
 delicate^ though the white, or upper part, is rather tough. 
 
 The guide met with an acquaintance of his who lived by 
 catching fish, not far from this spot. His only habitation 
 
IN EGVPT AND NUBIA. 631 
 
 consisted of a tent four feet high, and five feet wide ; and 
 his wife, a daiin^hter, and a young man, her husband, 
 formed the whole f«mily. 
 
 Their mode of fishing is somewhat strange ; they throw 
 in the water a piece of the trunk of a doomt tree, perhaps 
 ten or twelve feet long, at each end of which is a piece of 
 wood in an horizontal <lirection, so as to prevent the tree 
 from turning round ; at one of the ends a small pole is stuck 
 upright to serve as a mast, on the top of which there is a 
 piece of wood horizontally fastened as that below. A woollen 
 shawl thrown over it, and fastened nt each end, and to the 
 piece of wood horizontally fastened below, forms a kind of 
 sail, and two fishermen mount on the large trunk like on 
 horseback, and by means of a cord, attached to the middle of 
 the sail, they take the wind more or less as is required. 
 But it is only when the wind blows either from north or 
 south that such a contrivance can serve ; for if it blows from 
 the east they cannot set off their boat from the shore, or if it 
 blows from the west it will blow them too far out to sea. 
 When the fishermen are at some distance from the shore, it 
 was not clearly seen by what means the rest of the operation 
 is executed ; but it seemed that they darted their long thin 
 spear at the fish when they happened to see any, and by 
 these means they procured their subsistence. On their re- 
 turn they brought four fish, each of about six pounds weight, 
 and one foot six inches long ; they were of a strong blue sil- 
 vered colour ; their fins, head, and tail red ; and their teeth, 
 which are only four, are quite flat and out of their mouths. 
 They had very large scales, and their form not unlike the 
 benne of the Nile. It would seem that the Egyptians must 
 have had a knowledge of this fish, as it is so clearly seen in 
 their hieroglyphics, and in the new tomb of Psammuthis 
 some are painted exactly as they are in reality. They are 
 exceedingly good, have very few bones, and very large galls. 
 On the 5th, in the morning, they ascended a high moun- 
 tain to view the coast as far as they could, and they saw 
 
632 BKLZONl'S TRAVELS 
 
 that it ran m a straight direction towards the south-east. 
 Early on the 6th, the camels arrived with a load of fresh 
 water, and it was well they did so, for their thirst was in- 
 creased, not only from the scarcity of water, but by the 
 shelUfish which they had found and eaten abundantly; an 
 inconvenience which the fishermen had not to contend with, 
 being accustomed to the bitter water of a well not far off. 
 They now divided their caravan into two parties ; and sent 
 (ill the luggage, culinary articles, the soldier, the Greek 
 servant, and the best part of the camels, to a spring of run- 
 ning water in the mountains of Amuse, there to wait till 
 Mr. Belzoni and his companions returned. They took as 
 much water as they could, and formed a party, consisting of 
 Mr. Beechey, Mr. Belzoni, a Greek servant, four drivers, 
 and the two Arab boys brought from Gournou, with five 
 camels in all. 
 
 T.iey set off in the morning, and went along the coast 
 till they arrived at El Whady Abghsoon, near the mines uf 
 El Kebrite, or sulphur, and on the south-west were the 
 mountains of Hamata. He observed the coast all the way, 
 and took its direction. On the road they met some fisher- 
 men. When they saw the party at a distance, they left 
 their tents and marched off towa'rds the mountai»ns. On ar- 
 riving at their tents, they found some excellent fish just 
 roasted, which, no doubt, these people had made ready for 
 their supper. They partook of their meal, and left some 
 money in payment, on the top of a water jar, and continued 
 their journey. For two days they had been troubled with the 
 winds from the east, blowing strong and resembling the 
 siroccos of Italy, so that all their nerves were relaxed. 
 During this time, every thing was wet, and at night there 
 was an excessive heat, and the atmosphere quite covered 
 with clouds; fortunately it changed after two days, and the 
 north wind dissipated all. Had it lasted longer, they could 
 not have proceeded on their journey. At night they stopped 
 at a well of bitter water. 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 633 
 
 On the 7th, they set off early to see the mines of £1 Ke- 
 brite, or sulphur, as they were not out of their road. They 
 never were productive ; but what little they may have af- 
 forded, it appeared that the ancients had carried entirely 
 away, so that they left them ei^hausted like those of the 
 emeralds. 
 
 On the 8th, early in the morning they set off, and two 
 hours after, saw the sea at a distance, and went over a 
 very extensive plain. At about noon they approached the 
 sea, very thirsty, and regaled themselves with a little wa- 
 ter; and at one o'clock arrived on the shore. They arrived 
 all at once on one of those moles of ruins which show the 
 spot of ancient towns, so often seen in Egypt. They entered, 
 and at once saw the regular situations of the houses ; the 
 main streets, their construction, and in the centre, a small 
 Egyptian temple, nearly covered by the sand, as well as 
 the insides of the houses ; and their wonder increased on 
 examining the materials witli which the houses were built. 
 They could see nothing but coral, roots, madrepore, and 
 several petrifactions of sea-weeds, &c. 
 
 The temple is built of a kind of soft, calcareous, and 
 sandy stone, but decayed much by the air of the sea. The 
 situation of this town is delightful. The open sea before it 
 is on the east, and from the southern coast to the point of the 
 cape is like an amphitheatre of mountains, except an open- 
 ing on the north-west plain. The Cape el Golahen extends 
 its point nearly opposite the town on the east, and forms a 
 shelter for large ships from the north and north-west winds. 
 Right opposite the town there is a very fine harbour entirely 
 made by nature ; its entrance is on the north ; it is guarded 
 on the east by a neck of incrusted rock, on the south by the 
 land, and on the west by the town ; the north side being co- 
 vered by the range of mountains which forms the cape, pro- 
 tects the harbour also. Its entrance has been deep enough 
 tor small vessels, such as the ancients had at those times, 
 but no doubt was deeper. It has at present a bar of sand 
 
 P, V. 27. 4 M 
 
634 BELZONrS TRAVKLS 
 
 across, so that nothing could enter at low water ; but a pas- 
 sage could be easily cut, and the harbour rendered useful. 
 They concluded this to be the Berenice described by Pliny, 
 and laid down by D'Anville ; it nearly agreed with the situ- 
 ation where it was marked on the map ; but in order to ascer- 
 tain with more accuracy, they resolved to venture by goin^ 
 half a day higher towards the south. The town is, in breadth, 
 from north to south, 1600 feet, nnd in length, from east to 
 west, 2000 feet. The temple seems to be in constructiori 
 according to the Egyptian style, and they imagined that if 
 the Greeks had built it they had taken their plans from this 
 ancient people, as they had done in many other things. It 
 is one hundred and two feet long, and forty-three feet wide; 
 it contains four chambers, one on each side of the sekosand 
 eella, and two in the great hall in the front. 
 
 It was three days since they had eaten any thing but dry 
 biscuit and water, except the fish found at the fishermen*s 
 hut. On the morning of the 9th, before the sun rose, they 
 set the little Mussa to digging. He was one of the Arab 
 boys brouglit from Gournou. He had no spade, but with a 
 shell or caquille, he worked very well, as it was only soft 
 sand. 
 
 The boy had excavated about four feet of sand close to 
 the north-east corner of the cella, and they saw that the 
 temple was Egyptian. The part of the wall which was dis- 
 covered was adorned with Egyptian sculpture in basso re- 
 lievo, and well executed. They could «ee three figures, two 
 feet three inches high. The remaining part of the wall was 
 covered with hieroglyphics, &c. In the same hole the boy 
 found part of an Egyptian tablet covered with hieroglyphics 
 and figures. It is a kind of a reddish pudding-stone op 
 breccia, riot belonging to the rocks near that place. They 
 took it away as a memorandum of having seen an Egyptian 
 temple on the coast of the Red Sea ; a circumstance that, as 
 yet, no antiquarian has had any idea of. The plain that 
 jsiirrounds this town is very extensive : the nearest point to 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 63& 
 
 the mountains which form the crescent is about five miles 
 on the west of it. On the north, the mountain is about 
 twelve miles distant, and on the south fifteen. All the plain 
 is inclined to vegetation, such as a sandy soil can produce ; 
 but, in particular, the lower part of it towards the sea is 
 perpetually moist, and would produce, if cultivated, pas- 
 ture for camels, sheep, and other animals. This moisture 
 is naturally produced by the dam}> of the sea, which is very 
 strong when it happens. The upper part of the plaiir is not 
 so damp, and would be perhaps more productive of dry 
 plants. 
 
 The houses were not so extensive as they are built at this 
 day. It was the custom of those people to live close to each 
 other. The largest houses were about forty feet in length, 
 and twenty in breadth; some were smaller; the square of 
 2000 feet would contain 4000 houses ; but, as there were 
 spaces of ground without buildings, which may be reckoned 
 half the town, Mr. Belzoni counted them to be only 2000. 
 These people had no need of great sheds to put coaches, 
 chariots, or any other luxurious lumber. Their cattle and 
 camels lay always in the open air, as they still do in all these 
 countries : nor had they extensive manufactories. The only 
 massy buildings for their commerce could be but a few store- 
 houses, nor could the narrow lanes, which were in use m 
 those times, occupy much of the ground. He calculaied 
 that, with the houses out of town, which are scattered about 
 in groups here and there, the population of that port must 
 have exceeded 10,000 inhabitants : a town which even at 
 this day would be reckoned considerable, if situated on that 
 coast, as a port for commerce with India. He observed also 
 some of the tombs dug in the nearest lower rocks, of a kind 
 of soft or calcareous stone, which are the only ones on the 
 plain near the town on the western side. They left the spot 
 before the evening of the same day, in consequence of the 
 want of water; and, as the camel-drivers had nearly lost 
 their patience, they gava them half-a-pint each, and conti- 
 
 4 M 2 
 
C^Q «KLZ0NI*S TRAVELS 
 
 lined their road towards the mountain on the north- west« 
 with the lirm intention of returning prepared to scrutinise 
 tlie whole of these ruins* 
 
 The 20th, they set oif^ and passed through a wide plain* 
 As they left the mountain^ and arrived at Habookroog, a 
 place that appears to be at the entrance of the chain of moun- 
 tains that leads to the Nile, the camels were so tired they 
 could hardly crawl : they had lost three on the road, and 
 one they expected would not last long. It is difficult to 
 form a correct idea of a desert without having been in one ; 
 it is an endless plain of sand and stones^ sometimes inter- 
 mixed with mountains of all sizes and heights, without roads 
 or shelter, without any sort of produce for food. The few 
 scattered trees and shrubs of thorns, that only appear when 
 the rainy season leaves some moisture, barely serve to feed 
 wild animals, and a few birds. Every thing is left to na- 
 ture ; the wandering inhabitants do not care to cultivate 
 even these few plants, and when there is no more of them 
 in one place, they go to another. When the trees become 
 old) and lose their vegetation in such climates as these, the 
 sun^ which constantly beams upon them, burns and reduces 
 them to ashes. The other smaller plants have no sooner 
 risen out of the earth than they are dried up, and all take 
 the colour of straw> with the exception of the plant harack v 
 this falls off before it is dry. Speaking of a desert, there 
 are few springs of water, some of them at the distance ^.of 
 four, six, or eight days journey from one another, and not 
 all of sweet water ; on the contrary, it is generally salt or 
 bitter^ so that if the thirsty traveller drinks of it, it increases 
 his thirstj and he suffers more than before ; but when the 
 dreadful calamity happens that the next well, which is anx- 
 iously sought for^ is found dry, the misery of such as'tua- 
 tion cannot be well described. The camels, which afford 
 the only means of escape, are so thirsty that they cannot 
 proceed to another woU j and if the travellers kill them to 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBtA* 637 
 
 ^Ktract the little liquid which remains iu their stomachs, they 
 themselves cannot advance any farther. The situation must 
 be dreadful, and admits of no resource. 
 
 Many perish victims of the most horrible thirst. It is 
 then that the value of a cup of water is really felt. He that 
 has a zenzahia of it is the richest of all. In such a case 
 there is no distinction ; if the master has none, the servant 
 will not give it to him, for very few are the instances where a 
 man will voluntarily lose his life to save that of another, par- 
 ticularly in a caravan in the desert, where people are stran- 
 gers to each other. What a situation for a man, though a 
 rich one, perhaps the owner of all the caravans 1 He is dy- 
 ing for a cup of water-~no one gives it to him — he offers all 
 he possesses — no one hears him — they are all dying — though 
 by walking a few hours farther they might be saved, — the 
 camels are lying down, and cannot be made to rise — no one 
 has strength to walk — only he that has a glass of that pre- 
 cious liquid lives to walk a little farther, and perhaps dies 
 too. If the voyages on sea are dangerous, so are those in 
 the deserts : at sea, the provisions very often fail ; in the 
 desert it is worse : at sea, storms are met with, in the de- 
 sert there cannot be a greater storm than to find a dry well : 
 at sea, one meets with pirates — we escape — we surrender — 
 or die ; in the desert they rob the traveller of all his property 
 and water ; they let him live perhaps — but what a life ! to 
 die the most barbarous and agonising death. In short, to 
 be thirsty in a desert, without water, exposed to the burn- 
 ing sun, without shelter, and no hopes of Hnding either, 
 is the most terrible situation that a man can be placed in, 
 and, perhaps one of the greatest sufferings that a hu- 
 man being can sustain : the eyes grow inflamed, the tongue 
 and lips swell; a hollow sound is heard in the ears, which 
 brings on deafness, and the brains appear to grow thick and 
 inflamed : — all these feelings arise from the want of a little 
 water. In the midst of all this misery, the deceitful mirages 
 appear before tke traveller at no great distance, something 
 
1338 
 
 like a lake or river of clear fresh water. The deception of 
 this phenomenon is well known, as is mentioned before ; but 
 it does not fail to invite the longing traveller towards that 
 element, and to put him in remembrance of the happiness 
 of being on such a spot. If perchance a traveller is not un- 
 deceived, he hastens his pace to reach it sooner ; the more 
 he advances towards it, the more it goes from him, till at 
 last it vanishes entirely, and the deluded passenger often 
 asks where is the water he saw at no great distance ; he can 
 scarcely believe that he is so deceived ; he protests that he 
 saw the waves running before the wind, and the reflection of 
 the high rocks in the water. 
 
 If, unfortunately, anyone falls sick on the road, there is 
 no alternative ; he must endure the fatigue of travelling on 
 a camel, which is troublesome even to healthy people, or 
 he must be left behind on the sand, without any assistance, 
 and remain so till a slow death comes to relieve him. What 
 horror ! What a proceeding to an unfortunate sick man ! 
 No one remains with him, not even his old and faithful ser- 
 vant ; no one will stay and die with him ; all pity his fate, 
 but no one will be his companion. Why not stop the whole 
 caravan till he is better, or do what they can for the best till 
 he dies ? No, this delay cannot be ; it would put all in dan- 
 ger of perishing of thirst if they do not reach the next well 
 in such a time ; besides, they are all different parties gene- 
 rally of merchants or travellers, who will not only refuse to 
 put themselves in danger, but will not even wait a few hours 
 to save the life of an individual, whether they know him 
 or not. 
 
 In contrast to this evil, there is the luxury of the desert, 
 and also its sport, which is generally at the well ; there one 
 enjoys all the delight of drinking as much water as one likes, 
 which tastes not unlike cordials or other precious liquors, 
 with the others in that situation. The beasts, mixed with 
 birdsj drink together close to the well. There is a kind of 
 basin made of clay which is filled up by the drivers, from 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 639 
 
 the well, where the thirsty animals all drink tpgether, ca- 
 mels, sheep, dogs, donkeys, and birds, as it is the only time 
 they can partake of that liquid; for in some places if it is not 
 drawn up from the well, they cannot reach it. The travel- 
 lers only saw four species of birds, viz. the vulture, crow, 
 wild pigeon, and partridge ; of this last they eat some, and 
 found them exceedingly good : the crows are the most nu-. 
 merous ; they teize the camels by pecking their wounds, if, 
 they have any. The other and most pleasing diversion is 
 the beautiful damsels who come as shepherdesses to water 
 their flocks, who after being assured that there is no dan- 
 ger in approaching strangers, become very sociable. 
 
 They set off at two in the morning of the 20th, and, be- 
 fore noon, reached the well at Hamesh, containing very 
 good water. Here they lost another camel; he could not 
 go any farther. 
 
 Early on the 23d, they proceeded, and arrived at the first 
 well ; the water of this place tasted very bad on going 
 up, but it appeared pretty good on their return. In the 
 night they arrived at the Nile, and having been long de- 
 prived of good water made them sensible of the superio- 
 rity of that of the river over the wells they had been accus- 
 tomed to. 
 
 The place they now reached on the Nile was a few miles 
 ifbrth of that where they had entered in the desert opposite 
 Elfou, and a little south of Eleithias. The road all along 
 the valley undoubtedly was a communication between that 
 town and Berenice, and on the east to the emerald mines. 
 It is not to be wondered at that the town of Eleithias must 
 have been of some consequence, as there is all the probabi- 
 lity of commerce having been carried on there ; there is still 
 a landing-place, which evidently proves the loading and 
 unloading of boats for that purpose ; and this place must 
 have been more frequented by the caravans from the sea 
 than Coptus, as it is a somewhat shorter journey to the Nile. 
 
 On their way down the Nile it was pleasing so see the 
 
640 BELZONl'S TRAVELS 
 
 diiference of the country ; all the lands that were under wa- 
 ter before were now not only dried up, but were already 
 sown ; the muddy villages carried off by the rapid current 
 were all rebuilt ; the fences opened ; the Fellahs at work in 
 the fields ; and all wore a different aspect. It was only 6f> 
 teen days since the water had retired, and in that period it 
 decreased more than eight feet. It is not so every year : 
 when the Nile increases slowly, it decreases also in the 
 same manner ; this is in consequence of the abundance or 
 scarcity of rain which falls during" the rainy season in Aby*« 
 sinia. 
 
 The natives rather prefer the rapid rising of the Nile, for 
 it covers more space of land, so that it be not too niuch» as 
 was the case this year ; and if the water remain eight days 
 over it, it does as much good as if it continued twenty. By 
 this time the drowned people were forgotten, and the only 
 calamity remaining was the scarcity of provisions amonjj 
 the Fellahs. The Nile had taken away their stock, and 
 the CachefTs were only busied in procuring grain for seed 
 In all such cases the poor labourer is the last thought of. 
 
 Mr. Belzoni now proceeded again to the island of Philoe 
 to remove the great obelisk from thence to Alexandria. He 
 met with much opposition. The greatest difficulty was to 
 persuade the Reis, or captain of the shallal, to undertake to 
 launch the boat down the cataract with the obelisk on board* 
 The water was very low at that time. However, the pro- 
 mise of a good present, and half of the money in his hands, 
 mollified the captain, and he promised that he would accom- 
 plish the undertaking. There was some difficulty at first iu 
 removing the obelisk from its original station ; but once put 
 on its way, it soon came to the water-side. The pedestal 
 was rather more troublesome ; owing to its square form, it 
 ■was almost buried under the rubbish ; and as they had no 
 tackle whatever, and very little wood, it retarded the work 
 one or two days. 
 
 Just as the obelisk wns ready to be embarked, the follow- 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 641 
 
 ing accident happened, which was entirely owing to neglect, 
 by trusting a single manoeuvre to some who speak more 
 than they can execute. Mr. Belzoni left the care to others 
 of making a sort of temporary pier of large blocks of stones, 
 while he examined a certain passage in the cataract where 
 the boat was to be taken up empty, and launched down 
 when loaded. On his return, the pier appeared quite strong 
 enough to bear at least forty times the weight it had to sup- 
 port ; but, alas ! when the obelisk came gradually on from 
 the sloping bank, and all the weight rested on it, the pier, 
 with the obelisk, and some of the men, took a slow move- 
 ment, and sunk into the river. 
 
 Mr. Belzoni observed that the stones which were to 
 serve as a foundation on the sloping bank had been only laid 
 on the surface of it, so that naturally the weight of the 
 obelisk must have carried it, or rather pressed down into 
 the Nile. The obelisk was still peeping a little out of the 
 water : the labourers were of various humours ; some were 
 sorry, not for the obelisk, which was no loss to them, but 
 for the loss of what they might have gained in future ope- 
 rations in passing it down the cataract, and others were 
 laughing, at seeing the evident disappointment expressed 
 on many countenances. The obelisk is one single piece of 
 granite of twenty-two feet in length, and two in breadth at 
 the basis. It is about the height of that in St. George's 
 Fields, but of a stone of a much heavier quality. 
 
 Having determined to take the obelisk up, he ordered 
 the men to come the next morning, and sent to Assouan 
 that evening to fetch some ropes if possible. The two 
 next days were employed in raising the obelisk. 
 
 A great quantity of stones were now brought to the water* 
 side* Several men entered the water, and raised a heap of 
 stones on the side of the obelisk opposite the shore, to form 
 a solid bed for the levers to rest upon. The levers were 
 then placed under the obelisk, one at the basis, and the 
 other near the leaning point, so that by the pressure of the 
 
 P. V. 27. 4 N 
 
1542 BELZONl'S TRAVELS 
 
 levers, the obelisk must turn round upon its axis ; the men 
 couid not put down the lever under water as they do on 
 shore, biif by seating themselves on the extremity of the 
 levers, the pressure of their own weight produced the ef- 
 fect. Two ropes were passed under the obelisk : the end 
 which was from under it was fastened to some date- trees, 
 which happened to be on the bank, and to the ends which 
 came from above were as many men put as were sufficient. 
 At the side of the levers were some good divers, who were 
 ready to put large stones under the obelisk when it rose, so 
 that it might not return back to its former situation. When 
 the men at the rope began to pull, and the divers to 
 mount on the extremities of the levers, the obelisk rose 
 ou.thfe side opposite the bank ; and when the levers were to 
 be removed, the obelisk was propped by stones under it. 
 It was thus risen so that its own weight caused it to move 
 round at each turn till it came quite on dry ground, which 
 was elfected- in less than two days. 
 
 Mr. Belzoni continued his operation, and put the obelisk 
 on board, by means of a bridge of palm-trees, thrown from 
 across the boat to the land under the obeliisk, which was 
 now turned on the bridge, and entered on board : when in 
 the centre of the boat, he removed the trees from under it ; 
 and no sooner was this done than they set otf with the obe- 
 lisk for the Marada, to have it readv to be launched down 
 the cataract on the next morning. 
 
 Next morning all was ready for the dangerous operation 
 of passing the cataract with the obelisk. At this place is 
 thQ gf eatest fall, or rather descent, of water in the cataract. 
 When the inundation is half high in the Nile, it is a column 
 of water of about three hundred yards in length, which falls 
 n an angle of twenty and twenty-five degrees among roCks 
 and stones, which project out in various dii-ections. The 
 boat was brought to the margin of the cascade ; a strong 
 rope, or rather a small cable, was attached to a large tree, 
 the Qod of wliich was passed through the beams of the boa', 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBFA. 643^ 
 
 SO as to be slackened or stopped at pleasure. In the boat 
 there were only five men ; and on the rocks, on each side of 
 the cascade, a number of others in various place:?, with 
 ropes attached to the boat, so as to put it either on one side 
 or the other, as it required, to prevent its running^ against 
 the stones ; for if it should be touched in the smallest de- 
 gree, with such a weight on board, and in such a rapid 
 stream, the boat could not escape being dashed to pieces. 
 The cable, which was borrowed from a merchant-boat in 
 Assouan, was pretty strong, but not sufficient to stop the 
 boat in its course, in case it should be in danger of running 
 against a rock. It was only sufficient to check its course 
 down ; nor could the boat have been stopped in such a situ- 
 ation, for in that case the water would run over the boat, 
 and sink it instantly. Under these circumstances, all de- 
 pended on the dexterity of the men who were posted in va- 
 rious parts to j)uU or slacken according as necessity required. 
 Mr. Belzoni did not fail to use all the persuasion possible, 
 and promises of bakshis to the wild people, as they are 
 called, but who on this occasion, were as steady asso many 
 pilots. The Reis, of whom he had hired the boat, was al- 
 most out of his senses, thinking it would be certainly lost. 
 The poor fellow had engaged his vessel merely because it 
 happened that his trade failed ; and he was in Assouan for 
 some time without hope of getting a cargo, and had in- 
 curred debts, which confined him there, and he would have 
 been glad of any freight to get out ; but when he saw the 
 danger bis boat was in, he cried like a child^ and begged 
 Mr. Belzoni would relinquish his object, and return his 
 boat safe to him. But when he saw the vessel on the point 
 of being launched, he threw himself with his face to the 
 ground, and did not rise till all was out of danger. Hav- 
 ing seen that all was ready, the signal to slacken the cable 
 was given.. It was a grand sight. The boat took a course 
 which may be reckoned at the rate of twelve miles an hour. 
 Accordingly, the men on land slackened the rope; and at 
 
 4 N 2 
 
6'i4 BKLZONI*S TRAVELS 
 
 the distance of one hundred yards the boat came in contact 
 with an eddy, which, beating against a rock, returned to- 
 wards the vessel, and helped much to stop its course. The 
 men on the side pulled the boat out of the direction of that 
 rock, and it continued its course, gradually diminishing its 
 rate, till it reached the bottom of the cataract, and was out 
 of danger. The labourers altogether seemed pleased at the 
 good success of the attempt, even independently of the in- 
 terest they might derive from it ; and it is not very often 
 that such feelings enter into the bosoms of these people. 
 The Reis of the boat had joy expressed in his countenance^ 
 as may easily be imagined, and they arrived safe at Assouan 
 the same day shortly afterwards. 
 
 Mr. Belzoni now resolved to return to Europe, and hav- 
 ing put all things in readiness, and all the models of the 
 tombs being embarked, he took the celebrated sarcophagus 
 out of the tomb and put it in a strong case. The valley it 
 had to pass to reach the Nile is rather uneven for more than 
 two miles, and one mile of good soft sand and small pebbles. 
 He had it conveyed on rollers all the way, and safely put 
 on board. 
 
 It was on the 27th of January, 1819, when they left 
 these truly magnificent ruins, and arrived at Cairo on the 
 18th of February. At Cairo they only stopped a few days, 
 and continued the voyage to Rosetta; there they landed 
 the various pieces of antiquity, the obelisk, the sarcopha- 
 gus, and the cover of another sarcophagus. It had been 
 thrown from its sarcophagus when it was forced open, and 
 being reversed it remained buried by the stones, and unno- 
 ticed by any visitor. Mr. Belzoni cleared off all the stones, 
 and on examination of the under part, found that it was a 
 fine figure, larger than life, in alto relievo, and, except the 
 foot, all the rest was quite perfect. Having re- embarked 
 all these articles again on board of a djerm, they came to 
 Alexandria with a firm intention to set off with the first op- 
 portunity. 
 
IN EGYPT AND N LIBIA (>4d 
 
 Having however, from circumstances, to remain luni;er 
 than he expected, he resolved to take a journey to the Odsh 
 of Aramon. He left Rosetta on the 20th, and arrived at 
 Benisouef on the 29th of April, 1819. He took a Sicilian 
 servant, whom he hired in Alexandria, as his Irish lad had 
 taken the opportunity of returning to England from Jeru- 
 salem with Mr. Legh. He took, also, a Moorish Hadge, 
 who was on his return from Mecca, and begged to be taken 
 on board at Gene. As he was a Hadge or pilgrim, his com- 
 pany would be of some service ; and he proved very useful. 
 At Benisouef they procured some donkeys to take them and 
 a little provision as far as the lake Moeris. 
 
 On the 29th of April they set off, and directed their 
 course through a vast plain of cultivated land, of corn and 
 other products of the country. This plain is all under wa- 
 ter at the time of the inundation, excepting the scattered 
 villages, which stand elevated, and appear like so many 
 islands during that time. About fifteen miles from the Nile, 
 the chain of mountains on the west are but low. They 
 open and form a valley into the Faioum ; and it was at this 
 entrance that they arrived on the first night of their journey. 
 The Bahr Yousef passes into the centre of this valley, and 
 enters, in various serpentine directions, into the Faioum. 
 They took their station under some date trees near the 
 water, about two miles from the first pyramid. Here, after 
 a slight repast, they went to sleep on their usual bed, a 
 mattress, thin enough to serve as a saddle when folded up, 
 but, when laid on a mat or on the ground, affording as good 
 a bed as any traveller ought to expect. The Sicilian ser- 
 vant, the Moorish Hadge, and the donkey-drivers, kept 
 watch in their turn ; and it was arranged so, that this sys- 
 tem should be observed during the whole of their journey. 
 
 On the dOth, they set off before sunrise, and soon arrived 
 at the first pyramid. It is composed of sun-burnt bricks, 
 and stands on a high ground at the foot of a hill on the 
 northern side of the valley. Its basis is covered round with. 
 
646 belzonTs travels. 
 
 sand and stones, out of which it rises sixty feet, but its 
 original height must have been above seventy, as the top 
 has been thrown down. The basis above the sand is eighty 
 feet. Mr. Belzoni ascended the pyramid, and from the top 
 could see the whole vailey, and the entrance into the Faioum, 
 On the west, at only two hours' walk distance, was another 
 pyramid, situated on a lower ground ; consequently it ap- 
 peared less high. Further to the west, was Medinet El 
 Faioum, which stands on the ruins of ancient Arsinoe, and 
 has a respectable appearance at a distance. 
 
 They set off for the temple, named Cassar el Haron, 
 about three miles from a lake, standing in the midst of 
 the ruins of a town, of which there is a track of the wall to 
 be seen, and the foundations of several bouses and other 
 small temples. There are fragments of columns, and blocksof 
 stone of a middling size. The temple is in good preservation, 
 excepting in the upper part : it is of a singular construction, 
 and differs somewhat from the Egyptian. There are no 
 hieroglyphics either inside or out, and only two figures on 
 the wall on the western side of the upper apartments, one of 
 which he took for Osiris, and the other for Jupiter Am mon. 
 In the front of this temple there is a semicircular pilaster at 
 each side of the door, and two pilasters attached to the wall; 
 but the exterior workmanship is evidently of a later date 
 than the temple. Part of the. town is covered with sand. 
 On the east side of it there is something like a gateway, in 
 an octangular form, and at a little distance there is a Greek 
 chapel, elevated on a platform, with cellars under it. 
 
 After having taken a proper view lof the temple and of the 
 town, they wentio see the small Greek chapel, accompanied 
 by the two boatmen ; and as tliere was no appearance of any 
 danger, Mr. Belzoni left his gun and pistols in the temple, 
 but had nearly suffered for his temerity ; for just as he was 
 . mounting the few steps that lead to the platform of the small 
 chapel, a large hyena rushed from the aj»artments beneath 
 the chapel. The animal stopptul three or four yards from 
 
IN KGYPT AND Nl'BIA. 647 
 
 hini, and then turned round as if determined to attack him ; 
 but it appeared on second thoughts to have relinquished its 
 intent, and after having shown its pretty teeth, gave a hi-' 
 deous roar, and set off galloping as fast as it could. 
 
 On the morning of May 5, they took the road on the west 
 side of the lake, and saw the site of a town named El Ha- 
 inan, of which nothing now remains but scattered pieces of 
 brick and part of a bath. This place is situated full forty 
 feet above the lake, and the ground all round was covered 
 with small shells such as cockles, small conchilies, and 
 others not unlike periwinkles. They returned afterwards on 
 the east on the same day, and passed several ancient vil- 
 lages, built of sun^burnt bricks. At a place named Terza, 
 Mr. Belzoni observed several blocks of white stone and red 
 granite, which evidently must have been taken from edifices 
 of greater magnitude than what had ever stood there. He 
 eould not see the smallest appearance of an edifice, either 
 on the ground, or any appearance from under it ; but he 
 observed all through that part of the country a great num- 
 ber of stones and columns of beautiful colours, of white 
 marble and of granite. These pieces were scattered about 
 for the space of several miles, some on the road, and some 
 in the houses of the Arabs, and others put to various uses in 
 the erection of huts, &c. 
 
 They continued their journey in a direction parallel 
 with the lake, through several villages, woods of palm and 
 other fruit trees, and well cultivated lands, and at sunset 
 arrived at Fedmin el Kunois, which means the Place of 
 Churches : it stand on a high mound of earth and rubbish, 
 and has evidently been rebuilt on other ruins. It is divided 
 into two parts by a small canal from the Bahr Yousef. One 
 sfde of the town is inhabited by Christian Copts, and the 
 other by Mahomedans ; and though the two religions offi- 
 ciated almost in sight of each other, they never interfered 
 in each other^s rights. The poor Copts were destitute of the 
 principal means of educating their children ; and the only 
 
(Us BELZONrS TRAVELS 
 
 reference they nad to the rites of the Christian religion wa** 
 an old book of manuscripts, copied from the Bible ; but even 
 this was kept as the only relic they had. Mr. Belzoni says 
 if he had possessed an Arabic Bible or Testament he might 
 have become a great man among them, and states his won- 
 der that the Missionaries of the Bible Society, who had 
 lately visited Egypt, omitted this place, being a noted 
 Christian town. 
 
 A young man of the name of Burckhardt, cousin to the 
 celebrated traveller of that name, went, unprotected, into 
 Egypt for the purpose of distributing Bibles, and was in 
 consequence persecuted and obliged to fly in great haste. 
 He went into Syria, but with over fatigue, or perhaps from 
 the effects of the climate, he was unable to proceed higher 
 than Aleppo, where he died. 
 
 The tradition of the town of Fedmin el Kunois is, that in 
 ancient times there were on that spot three hundred churches 
 which were allowed to fall in ruins by the old inhabitants 
 of the place, and that when the Mahomedans succeeded to 
 the country, they built the present town on these very three 
 hundred churches; for which reason the town is named 
 Fedmin of the churches. The story is somewhat strange 
 and may afford grounds for a modern traveller to place the 
 Egyptian Labyrinth in this spot; for, by conceiving that the 
 three hundred churches were the three hundred cellars of 
 the Labyrinth, as mentioned by Herodotus, or by supposing 
 that the father of history meant to say three hundred instead 
 of three thousand, the above churches could have been no- 
 thing less than the old Egyptian Labyrinth itself. All this 
 might pass off well enough among the wanderers ; but, un« 
 fortunately, there is proof to the contrary, which will do 
 away with any such supposition. The above branch of 
 the Bahr Yousef passes through the town, cut not above two 
 centuries ago ; and none of the said churches appeared in 
 the progress of the excavation through the town, which 
 must have been the case had it been built on the said three 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 649 
 
 liiindred churches. However, notwithstanding the little 
 probability there is of the Labyrinth being in this place, it 
 TOUSt have been at no great distance from the lake, as the 
 great quantity of materials which is scattered about the coun- 
 try has evidently belonged to some extensive and splendid 
 building. 
 
 On the morning of the 7th they went to see the ruins of 
 the ancient Arsinoe. It had been a very large city ; but 
 nothing of it remained, except high mounds of rubbish. 
 The chief materials appear to have been burnt bricks. There 
 are many stone edifices, and a great quantity of wrought 
 granite. In the present town of Medinet were several frag- 
 ments of granite columns, and other pieces of sculpture, of 
 a most magnificent taste. 
 
 Having seen all he wished in this place, Mr. Belzoni 
 went to see Hussuff Bey, who had returned from Cairo. 
 He was a native of Circassia, and bought at the usual mar- 
 ket as a common slave, by the Bashaw of Egypt, who, af- 
 ter many years* servitude, made him Bey, or governor, of 
 the finest province of that country. He was uncommonly 
 civil, and eager to know any thing with which he was un- 
 acquainted ; but, on application for a Bedoween guide to 
 conduct them through the desert, he said that the Bedo- 
 weens were all encamped in that part of the province which 
 was subject to Khalil Bey at Benisouef. 
 
 It was quite night before they arrived on the banks of the 
 Nile; and, as no business could be done that evening, Mr. 
 Belzoni caused his saddle to be prepared for his bed, and went 
 to sleep. I do not know, says he, to what cause it is to be 
 attributed, but t certainly slept more soundly on the banks 
 of the Nile, or on the sands of the desert, than I ever did 
 in any other place, and particularly under a roof. 
 
 Mr. Belzoni went to the coffee-house in the bazar of the 
 town, the only place of amusement. These places are only 
 frequented by the Turkish soldiers, for though a cup of 
 ^joiTee is only five paras, little more than a halfpenny, yet it 
 
 P. V. 28. 4 O 
 
^50 BKLZONI'S TRAVELS 
 
 in more than an Arab can afford to pay, as his general pay 
 for his day's labour is only twenty paras, three-pence, so 
 that it is very seldom an Arab is to be seen in these spend- 
 thrift places. It is somewhat singular to observe, that 
 while these soldiers are drinking their coffee, they assume 
 the same airs and consequence as their Beys. A beenbashe, 
 who is only in rank with a serjeant, issues to the corporal 
 the order he received from the Cacheff, in the same tone as 
 it was delivered to him ; the corporal does so to the soldier, 
 who occasionally passes it to an Arab in the same manner. 
 
 On the morning of the 27th of May, Mr. Belzoni was taken 
 to see the seat of an old town a short distance in the south* 
 As he thought he might see some inscription on the wall, 
 INIr. Belzoni took from his pocket a small telescope, which, 
 when opened, was not more than two feet long. Having 
 put it in a direction to the upper part of the wall, all the peo- 
 ple that were there retired in great precipitation, and ttie 
 others near were on the point of doing the same. An old 
 man stared at the telescope, and wished to lino w what he 
 was about. He thought it best to please the old man by 
 letting him have a peep. He was shy at first, but he took 
 it ; and, after a long examination, put it to his eyes. At 
 last he caught the focus of the glasses, and was much asto- 
 nished that the stones of the wall should come so near to 
 him. 
 
 They entered through a house into the interior of a temple; 
 but there was nothing but the inner part of a wall, which 
 must have been the sanctuary. All was apparently the vast 
 ruins of a great edifice, covered with mud cottages which 
 formed the village, and the standing part of a temple built 
 by later nations ; the materials of the former temple having 
 been employed to erect the latter, but the stone bad been 
 diminished in size. 
 
 By this time the principal people of the village had arrived. 
 The telescope was what drew their attention at present, and 
 it K\3,s handed from one to another ; but unfortunatelv, after 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUB?A. 651 
 
 the first, no one could see any thing ; he protested that a 
 branch of a date-tree, which was at some distance, came 
 so close to him that it touched his nose. All the rest were 
 willing to see this wonder, but he unwarily had put the teles- 
 cope off its focus, consequently the others could not see. 
 When put right again, the first that could see exclainaed, 
 that he was close to the tree. His pleasure of sight did not 
 last long, for no sooner did he say that he saw soraethiHg, 
 than the glass was taken from him, and put out of its focus 
 again. This created sport for more than two hours, and 
 Mr. Belzoni then received his telescope back again withoui 
 injury. They were so pleased with it and with their know- 
 ledge of it, that Mr. Belzoni proposed to take a tour romid 
 the village on the outside of it, and they all agreed to ac- 
 company him. They set out with at least halt the people. Mr. 
 Belzoni inquired from some of them, who seemed to be dis- 
 posed to tell any thing, if there were any places underground 
 any where : they seemed surprised how he should know of 
 any places of the kind, and told him that there were many 
 round the village. On going towards them, he perceived 
 several tombs cut out of the rock. On entering he found 
 three or four chambers, in each of which were several sarco- 
 phagi of burnt clay with the mummies inside, their folding 
 not so rich or so fine, the linen of a coarse sort, and the 
 corpses without asphaltum, consequently not so well pre- 
 served. They are in great quantity in each tomb. Many 
 of the sarcophagi are still in good preservation, but he 
 could not take any away, as it would have been too great a 
 burthen for a camel. After a long tour over these tombs, 
 they returned. 
 
 Mr. Belzoni inquired if any of them had any articles to 
 dispose of, and told them that he would give them money 
 in return : nothing was brought to him of any consequence, 
 only a broken Grecian vase of bronze, about eight inches 
 high, of a very curious shape ; and a small cherub of Greek 
 Work, not more than three inches high. During the morn- 
 
 4 2 
 
652r RELZONl^S TRAVELS 
 
 Sng Mr. Belzoni was taken on one side by the Cacly, wh^ 
 was uncommonly polite to him all this time, for which atten- 
 tion he could not account : he told him in a few words, that 
 himself, the Sheik Salem, and his father, had made up their 
 minds to offer him to remain there with them, that he should 
 become a Mahomedan, and that a great feast would be made 
 on his account on the day of the festival of that ceremony ; 
 that he should partake of part of their lands, and if he knew 
 how to introduce some new produce, it would be all to his 
 own advantage ; and lastly, that he might choose four wives 
 from among their own daughters, and that he should be 
 happy there without going about so much after stones. He 
 had not a little difficulty to get himself out of this scrape. 
 He left the Cady, giving him hopes that he would return 
 soon, and then, perhaps, his mind might be more inclined 
 to stop there and marry ; but, for the present, he could not 
 leave all the rest of his affairs at Cairo unsettled. His Si- 
 cilian servant was attacked also at the same time, but he got 
 off in a more speedy way ; he promised them, that as soon 
 as he had accoicpanied his employers to Cairo, he would 
 return immediately, and st^y there with them all the rest of 
 his life. 
 
 A feast of rice eating was kept in consequence of the death 
 of a man related to Sheik Ibrahim, the landlord of the house 
 where he was, and who was taken to be buried just before. 
 No sooner was the eating ended, than the most tremendous 
 noise issued from the outer doors ; it was the widow of the 
 deceased, who returned home, accompanied with all the 
 rest of the matrons of the village, all in great uproar. 
 
 On the next day the widow who had buried her husband 
 came and seated herself near Mr. Belzoni, sobbing, as he 
 supposed, for the loss of her husband. The Sicilian servant 
 tried to persuade her to bear her loss pat^^ently ; bat she con- 
 tinued sobbing : at last she said, that none but Mr. Efelzi>ni 
 could restore her to happiness, and that she hoped that he 
 would not refuse her the favour. At last he asked what 
 
IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. ()53 
 
 itie wanted. She said, that she saw him writing magic, 
 aud begged he would write two pieces of paper — one to get 
 another husband, as soon as possible, and the other to make 
 use of for the same purpose if he should die. He endea- 
 voured to persuade her that lie was not in possession of ma- 
 gic ; but she would not be convinced, and went away much 
 displeased. 
 
 After various adventures, on the 15th of June the whole 
 party returned to Benisouef, where they embarked for Cairo; 
 from thence they proceeded to Alexandria; and Mr. Bel- 
 zoni having arranged all his affairs in Egypt, in the middle 
 of September, 1819, he embarked for Europe. 
 
 The head of Memnon, the sphynxes and other antiquities 
 were sent to Great Britain and placed in the British Mu- 
 seum There they are open for the public inspection, and 
 the reader is recommended to pay a visit to that place, to 
 which every person who is decently dressed is admitted 
 every Monday, Wednesday and Friday, except on holydays 
 or other particular days. There they will be led to appre- 
 ciate in some degree the valuable and arduous services of 
 Mr. Belzoni. 
 
( 654 ) 
 
 CAPTAIN ROSS'S VOYAGE 
 
 TO 
 
 THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 
 
 The voyage of Captain Ross, although now introducecf 
 into this work, took place prior to those of Captains Parry 
 and Franklin. The cause of this arrangement is, that the 
 voyage of Captain Ross was not marked by such interesting 
 incidents as those of the former. There i^ however much to 
 be noticed even in this voyage, and such circumstances will 
 form the history now to be given, which consequently will 
 be comprised in a few pages. 
 
 On the 11th of December, 1817, Captain Ross received 
 a letter from Sir George Hope, one of the Lords of the 
 Admiralty, informing him that two ships were to be sent 
 out to ascertain the existence or non-existence of a north- 
 west passage, and desiring him to say whether he should 
 wish to undertake it ; at the same time informing him, that 
 he would be accompanied by a man of science, and by Green- 
 land pilots accustomed to navigate those seas. To this he 
 returned for answer, that he had no hesitation in undertak- 
 ing the service, particularly with the promised assistance. 
 On the 16th he received orders from Sir George to make 
 the best of his way from Lock Ryan to Greenock, in the 
 Driver (which ship he then. commanded,) and when super- 
 seded he was to proceed to London. 
 
 Having arrived in London on the 30th of December, and 
 receiving directions, he visited the ships, and chose the 
 
(-^////.' 
 
 / 
 
 
 V 
 
 loadoD- W A\^p'h.t . 
 
ROSS'S VOYAGE. 655 
 
 Isabella, as being the most proper ship for the senior offi- 
 cer; he was afterwards employed in planning the accom- 
 modations, and directing the various alterations which were 
 necessary for the safety of the ships and comfort of the 
 crews, as well as in obtaining information from the different 
 masters of the Greenland ships, and other persons who had 
 been accustomed to navigate the icy seas. He was furnished 
 with tlie following official instructions. 
 
 By the Commissioners for executing the office of Lord 
 High Admiral of the United Kingdom of Great Britain 
 and Ireland, 8fc. 8fc, 
 
 HIS Royal Highness the Prince Regent having signi- 
 fied his pleasure to Viscount Melville, that an attempt 
 should be made to discover a Northern passage, by sea, 
 from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean ; We have, in conse- 
 quence thereof, caused four ships or vessels to be fitted out 
 and appropriated for that purpose, two of which, the Isa- 
 bella and the Alexander, are intended to proceed together 
 by the north-westward through Davis' Strait ; and two, 
 the Dorothea and Trent, in a direction as due north as may 
 be found practicable through the Spitzbergen seas. 
 
 And whereas we have thought lit to intrust you with the 
 command and direction of the former expedition, and have 
 directed Lieutenant Parry, who has been appointed to com- 
 mand the Alexander, to follow your orders for his further 
 proceedings ; you are hereby required and directed to pro- 
 ceed to sea, with all convenient despatch, in the Isabella, 
 and, taking under your orders the Alexander above men- 
 tioned, make the best of your way into Davis' Strait, through 
 which you will endeavour to pass to the northward, without 
 stopping on either of its coasts, unless you shall find it ab- 
 solutely necessary. In this passage you may expect to meet 
 with frequent obstructions from fields and islands of ice; to 
 get clear of which, and to ensure the safety of the ships and 
 people committed to your charge, will require from you, 
 and all who are under your orders, the greatest precaution , 
 
G50 ROSS'S VOYAGE TO 
 
 and vigilance. And, as the navigation among ice may b^ 
 considered as an art to be acquired only by practice, we 
 have directed that there be appointed to each of the ships un- 
 der your orders, a master and a mate of whale-fishing ves- 
 sels, well experienced in those seas, from whose knowledge 
 and skill you may derive material assistance. 
 
 It is not improbable that in the early part of the season, 
 when you may be expected to arrive in Davis' Strait, the 
 ice may be found to stretch across fr&m Und to land ; but as 
 ice is known to vary in its positicm from year to year, and, 
 several times in the course of the year, and in those places 
 where not fast by the ground, is almost constantly in mo- 
 tion by winds, tides, and currents ;, if^ qw your arrival, 
 it should appear to present a compact barrier, you will, 
 of course, be prepared to avail yourself of the first open- 
 ing which may be discovered, to pass ia the northward. 
 As, however, in the present state of uncertainty with regard 
 to the movements of the ice, and with the very imperfect 
 knowledge we have of this strait, and still more so of the 
 sea beyond it, no specific instructions can be given for your 
 guidance, the time and manner of proceeding to fulfil the 
 ulterior object of your destination, in places where impedi- 
 ments may occur, must be left cntire:ly to your discretion ; 
 in the exercise of which we rely qe your zeal and skill in 
 your profession for the accomplishment, as far as it can 
 be accomplished, of the service on which you are employed ; 
 not doubting that every exertion will be made on your part, 
 and on that of your officers, while, at the same time, no pre- 
 caution will be omitted, that prudence may dictate, to avoid 
 accidents on an enterprise of so arduous a nature as that of 
 conducting ships in safety through fields of ice in unknown 
 seas. It may not, however, be amiss to suggest, as a ge- 
 neral observation, that a passage through fields of ice is 
 most likely to be found where the sea is deepest and least 
 connected with land ; as there is reason to suppose that 
 ice IS found to be more abundant near the shores of the con- 
 tinent and islands, in narrow strait?, and deep bays. Ati4 
 
THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 667 
 
 it may also be expected, that the sea will be most clear of 
 ice where the currents are strongest, as the stream of a ri- 
 ver will continue open long after the sides are frozen up. 
 
 From the best information we have been able to obtain, 
 it would appear that a current of some force runs from the 
 northward towards the upper part of Davis' Strait, during 
 the summer season, and, perhaps, for some part of the win- 
 ter also, bringing with it fields of ice in the spring, and ice- 
 bergs in the summer. 
 
 This current, if it he considerable, can scarcely be alto- 
 gether supplied by streams from the land, or the melting of 
 ice ; there would, therefore, seem reason to suppose, that 
 it may be derived from an open sea ; in which case, Baffin's 
 Bay cannot be bounded by land, as our charts generally re- 
 present it, but must communicate with the Arctic Ocean. 
 
 In passing up the Strait, if such a current should be dis- 
 covered, it will be of the greatest importance to you, in 
 pointing out that part of the Strait which is likely to be the 
 least incumbered with ice, as well as leading you direct to 
 the opening by which it may be supposed to pass from the 
 Arctic Sea into Davis' Strait, 
 
 In tracing this current, you will soon discover whether 
 it takes its origin in the north-east or north-west quarter : 
 if in the former, you will, of course, abandon all pursuit of 
 it further ; but if it should come from tho north-west or 
 west, it will prove the best guide you can follow, to lead 
 you to the discovery of which you are in search. 
 
 The strength and direction of the current should be tried 
 once in twenty-four hours;- or oftener, if any material 
 change is observed to take place ; and it will be most ad- 
 viseable to take its temperature at the surface frequently, as 
 you proceed, to compare it with the temperature of the sur- 
 face, where there *s no current. 
 
 If the reports of several intelligent masters jof whaling ves- 
 sels may be relied on, that part of the sea to the northward 
 .of Davis' Strait, which is marked on the charts as Barn's 
 
 r, V. 28. 4 V 
 
Bay, (that is to say, from the 72d decree of northern lati- 
 tude, to the 77th, where Baffin is supposed to have seen the 
 Jand,) is generally free from field -ice, which, from its ev 
 tent of surface, offers the greatest impediment to naviga- 
 tion. Should you find this actually to be the case, it may 
 l)e adviseable to stand well to the northward, before you 
 edge away to the westward, in order to get a good offing, 
 in ro.uriding the north-east point of the continent of Ame- 
 rica ; whose latitude has not been ascertained, but which, 
 if. a conjecture may be hazarded, from what is known from 
 the ndrthern roast of that continent, niay perhaps be found 
 in or about the 72d degree of latitude. 
 
 In the event of your being able to succeed in rounding 
 this point, and finding the sea open, you are carefully to 
 avoid coming near the coast, where you would be most 
 likely to be impeded by fixed or floating ice ; but keeping 
 well to the northward, and in deep water, make the best of 
 your way to Behring's Strait, through which you are to en- 
 deavour to pass into the Pacific Ocean ; and in the event 
 of your succeeding to pass this Strait, you are then to make 
 the best of your way to Kamlschatka, if you think you can 
 do so without risk of being shut up by the ice on that coast, 
 for the purpose of delivering to the Russian Governor, 
 duplicates of all the journals and other documents which 
 the passage may have supplied, with a request, that they 
 may be forwarded overland to St. Petersburgh, to be con- 
 veyed from thence to London ; and from this, you will pro- 
 ceed to the Sandwich Islands, or New Albion, or such 
 other place in the Pacific Ocean as you may think proper, 
 to refit and refresh your crews ; and if, during your stay 
 at such place, a safe opportunity should occur of sending 
 these papers to England, you should send duplicates^^ by 
 that conveyance. ■ 
 
 If the circumstances of your passage should be such as 
 to encourage your attempting to return by the same course, 
 you may wipter at the Sandwich Islands, New Albion, or 
 
THE ARCTIC REGIONS. Oo'9 
 
 any other proper place ; and early In next spring, may pro- 
 ceed direct for Behring's Strait, and use your endeavours 
 to repass the same ; and should you succeed in this attempt, 
 you are to proceed, if possible, to the eastward, keepin«^ in 
 sight and approaching the coast of America, whenever the 
 position of the ice will permit you so to do, in order that 
 you may be enabled to ascertain the latitudes and longitudes 
 of some of the most remarkable headlands or inlets that may 
 occur; taking every possible precaution, however, against 
 being beset by the ice, and thus coij)i)elled to winter on that 
 coast. 
 
 Hefore, however, you determine on returning by the same 
 way, you will maturely consider and weigh the prudence of 
 making such an attempt. If your original passage should 
 be made with facility, and you see reason to believe that 
 your success was not owing to circumstances merely acci- 
 dental, or temporary, and that there is a probability that 
 you may be able also to accomplish the passage back, it 
 would be undoubtedly of great importance that you should 
 endeavour to make it : but if, on the other hand, it shall 
 have been attended with circumstances of danger or diffi- 
 culty, so great as to persuade you that the attempt to re- 
 turn would risk the safety of the ships, and the lives of the 
 crews, you, in this case, are to abandon all tiioughts of re- 
 turning by the northern passage, and are to make the best of 
 your way home-ward, by Cape Horn. 
 
 Previous to your leaving England, or at any rate before 
 
 your departure from Shetland, you are to fix with Captain 
 
 Buchan, to whom th-e other expedition is intrusted, upon a 
 
 rendezvous in the Pacific ; and if you should be joined by 
 
 the Dorothea and Trent, or either of them, you are to take 
 
 them under your command ; and, having detached one 
 
 ehip, with a copy of all your papers, and a complete set of 
 
 despatches reporting your proceedings, to England, by the 
 
 route of Cape Horn, you are to proceed with the other ships 
 
 to repass Bebring's Strait, as above directed, if you should 
 
 4 P 2 
 
660 Ross's VOYAGE TO 
 
 have determined on that course ; but if you should have re^ 
 solved to return by the South, you are to take care to in- 
 terchange with Captain Buchan copies of your respective 
 journals and despatches ; or, if yon do not meet Captain 
 Buchan, or his ships, you are to deposit copies of your own 
 papers on board the Alexander, in order to ensure, as far as 
 possible, the arrival of these ioQportant documents in Eng- 
 land, by thus multiplying the modes of conveyance. 
 
 If, however, it should so happen, that from obstruction 
 of ice, or any other circumstance^ your progress to the 
 westward should prove too slow to admit of your approach 
 to Behring's Strait, before the present season shall be too 
 far advanced, to make it safe to attempt that passage ; and, 
 at the same time, your progress should be too considerable 
 to the westward, to ensure your return the same season by 
 the way of Davis' Strait ; you are, in that case, to edge 
 down to the northern coast of America, and endeavour to 
 find out some secure bay, in which the ships may be laid 
 up for the winter ; taking such measures for the health and 
 comfort of the people committed to your charge, as the ma- 
 terials with which you are supplied for housing-in the ships, 
 or hutting the men on shore, may enable you to do: and, if 
 you shall find it expedient to resort to this measure, and 
 you should meet with any inhabitants, either Esquimaux 
 or Indians, near the place where you winter, you are to en- 
 deavour by every means in your power to cultivate a friend- 
 ship with them, by making them presents of such articles 
 as you may be supplied with, and which may be useful or 
 agreeable to them : you will, however, take care not to suf- 
 fer yourself to be surprised by them, but use every pre- 
 caution, and be constantly on your guard against any hos- 
 tility. 
 
 You will endeavour to prevail on them, by such reward, 
 and to be paid in such manner, as you may think best to an- 
 swer the purpose, to carry to any of the settlements of the 
 Hudson** Bay Company, or of the North-west Company, 
 
THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 6G1 
 
 &n account of your situation and proceedings, with an ur- 
 gent request that it may be forwarded to England with the 
 utmost possible despatch. 
 
 If, however, all your endeavours should fail in getiing 
 so far to the westward as to enable you to double the north- 
 eastern extremity of America, (round which these Instruc- 
 tions have hitherto supposed a passage to exist,) you are, 
 in that case, to use all the means in your power, by keep- 
 ing to the northward and eastward, to ascertain to what ex- 
 tent' you can proceed along the western coast of Old Green- 
 land ; and whether there is any reason to suppose that it 
 forms a part of the continent of America ; and you are also 
 to endeavour to improve the very imperfect geography of the 
 eastern coast of Ani\erica, and of the island or islands which 
 are supposed to intervene between it and Disko Island 
 in Davis' Strait ; but you are, on no account, in this latter 
 case, to remain on this service so long, unless accidentally 
 caught in the ice, as to be obliged to winter on any part of 
 the eastern coast of America, or the western coast of Old 
 Greenland, or the intermediate islands ; but to leave the 
 ice about the middle or the 20th of September, or the 1st of 
 October at the latest, and uRake the best of your way to the 
 River Thames. 
 
 Although the first, and most important, object of this voy- 
 age, is the discovery of a passage from Davis* Strait, along 
 the northern coast of America, and through Behring's 
 Strait, into the Pacific ; it is hoped, at the same tinne, that 
 it may likewise be the means of improving the geography 
 and hydrography of the Arctic Regions, of which so little 
 is hitherto known, and contribute to the advancement of 
 science and natural knowledge. 
 
 With this view, we have caused a great variety of valu- 
 able instruments to be put on board the ships under your 
 orders, of which you will be furnished with a list, and for 
 the return of which you will be held responsible ; and have 
 «l8o, at the recommenda^on of the President and Council of 
 
6C)2 Ross's VOYAGE TO 
 
 tlie Koyal Society, ordered to be received on board this 
 Isabella, Captain Sabine, of the Royal Artillery, who is 
 represented to us as a gentleman well skilled in astrononry 
 natural history, and various branches of knowledge, to as- 
 sist you in making such observations as may tend to the im- 
 provement of geography and navigation, and the advance- 
 ment of science in general. Amongst other subjects of 
 scientific enquiry, yuu will particularly direct your atten- 
 tion to the variation and inclination of the magnetic needle, 
 and the intensity of the magnetic force ; you will endeavour 
 to ascertain how far the needle may be affected by the at- 
 uiospherical electricity, and what effect may be produced 
 on the electrometer and magnetic needle on the appearance 
 of the Aurora Borealis. You will keep a correct register 
 of the temperature of the air and of the surface of the sea ; 
 and you will frequently try the temperature of the sea, in 
 various situations and at different depths. You will cause 
 the dip of the horizon to be frequently observed by the dip- 
 sector invented by Doctor Wollaston ; and ascertain what 
 effect may be produced by measuring that dip across fields of 
 ice, as compared with its measurement across the surface of 
 the open sea. Yon will also cause frequent observations 
 to be made for ascertaining the refraction, and what effect 
 may be produced by observing an object, either celestial or 
 terrestrial, over a field of ice, as compared with objects ob- 
 served over a surface of water ; together with such other 
 meteorological remarks as you may have opportunities of 
 making. You are to attend particularly to the height, di- 
 rection, and strength of the tides, and to the set and ve- 
 locity of the currents ; the depth and soundings of the sea, 
 and the nature of the bottom ; for which purpose you are 
 supplied with an instrument better calculated to bring up 
 substances than the lead usually employed for this purpose. 
 For the purpose, not only of ascertaining the set of the 
 currents in the Arctic Seas, but also of affording more 
 frequent chances of hearing of ygur progress, We desire 
 
THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 66S 
 
 that you do frequently, after you shall have passed the lati- 
 tude of G5** North, and once every day when you shall be in 
 an ascertained current, throw overboard a bottle, closely 
 sealed, and containing a paper stating the date and posi- 
 tion at which it is launched; and you will give similar or- 
 ders to the Commander of the Alexander, to be executed 
 in case of separation. And for this purpose, we have caused 
 each ship to be supplied with papers, on which is printed, 
 in several languages, a request that whoever may find it 
 should take measures for transmitting it to this office. 
 
 And, although you are not to be drawn aside from the 
 main object of the service on which you are employed, as 
 long as you may be enabled to make any progress, yet 
 whenever you may be impeded by ice, or find it necessary 
 to approach the coasts of the continent or islands, you are 
 to cause views of bays, harbours, headlands, &c. to be 
 carefully taken, to illustrate and explain the track of the 
 vessels, or such charts as you may be able to make ; in 
 which duty, you will be assisted by Lieutenant Hoppner, 
 whose skill in drawing is represented to be so considerable, 
 as to supersede the necessity of appointing a professional 
 draughtsman. 
 
 You. are to marce use of every means in your power, to 
 collect and preserve such specimens of the animal, mineral, 
 and vegetable kingdoms, as you can conveniently stow on 
 board the ships : and, of the larger animals, you are to 
 cause accurate drawings to be made, to accompany and 
 elucidate the descriptions of them. In this, as well as in 
 every other part of your scientific duty, we trust that you 
 will receive material assistance from Captain Sabine. 
 
 Your are to use your best endeavours, to give instruc- 
 tions to the same effect to Lieutenant Parry, to keep the 
 two vessels constantly together, and prevent their separa- 
 tion ; if, however, they should separate, you are to appoint 
 Lerwick, in the Shetland Islands, as the first rendezvous, 
 and, after that. Love Bay, Disco Island, in Davis' Strait; 
 
664 ROSS'S VOYAGE TO 
 
 beyond which, as nothing is known, no other rendezvous 
 can be appointed. And in the event of any irreparable 
 accident happening to either of the ships, you are to cause 
 the officers and crew of the disabled ship to be removed into 
 the other, and with her singly, to proceed in prosecution of 
 the voyage, or return to England, according as circum- 
 stances shall appear to require : should, unfortunately, your 
 own ship be the one <lisabled, you are, in that case, to take 
 the command of the Alexander : and, in the event of your 
 own inability, by sickness or otherwise, to carry these in- 
 structions into execution, you are to transfer them to the 
 Lieutenant next in command, who is hereby required to ex-< 
 ecute them in the best manner he can, for the attainment of 
 the several objects in view. 
 
 As, in all undertakings of this nature, several emergen- 
 cies may arise, against which no foresight can provide, and 
 no specific instructions can be given ; you are, in all such 
 cases, to proceed in such a manner as you may judge to be 
 most advantageous to the service on which you are em* 
 ployed; most likely to advance the accomplishment of the 
 various objects of the expedition ; and most conducive to the 
 security of the ships, and the health, comfort, and safety, 
 of your officers and men. 
 
 Oti your arrival in England, you are immediately to re- 
 pair to this office, in order to lay before Us a full account 
 of your proceedings in the whole course of your voyage: 
 taking care, before you leave the ship, to demand from the 
 officers and petty officers the logs and journals they may have 
 kept ; and also from Captain Sabine such journals or me^ 
 moranda as he may have kept ; which are all to be sealed 
 up : and you will issue similar directions to Lieutenant 
 Parry and his officers ; the said logs, journals, or other 
 documents, to be hereafter disposed of as We may think 
 proper to determine. 
 
 His Majesty's Principal Secretary of State for Foreign 
 Affairs has been requested to apply to the courtt> of RussJA^ 
 
THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 66$ 
 
 Denmark, and Sweden, to issue orders to their respective 
 subjects, to afford any hospitality or assistance which these 
 expeditions may be in a situation to require and receive : the 
 Court of Russia has been particularly requested to give di- 
 rections to the authorities at Kamtschatka, for the safe 
 conveyance of any despatches you may intrust to them ; 
 and the Courts of Denmark and Sweden have been ro» 
 quested to order any of their ships, whether national or pri 
 vate, which you may fall in with, to treat you with amity^ 
 and to note carefully in their logs the situations in which 
 they may see any of His Majesty's ships. You will, on 
 your part, behave with cordiality and friendship to any 
 foreign vessels you may fall in with, or the authorities of 
 any port or place at which you may touch : and on all such 
 occasions, you will not fail to address to Our Secretary, for 
 Our information, a general account of your proceedings up 
 to the date at which the opportunity of conveying your de- 
 spatch may occur. 
 
 Given under Our hands the 31st of March, 1818. 
 (Signed) Mklvillk, 
 
 J. S. YORKE, 
 Geo. Hope, 
 G. Moore. 
 By Command of their Lordships, 
 
 (Signed) J. W. Croker. 
 
 To John Ross, Esq., Commander 
 of His Majesty s Sloop Isabella. 
 
 Names of the officers, &c. who sailed on board the two 
 
 ships. 
 On Board the Isabella, 
 
 John Ross, Commander. 
 
 William Robertson, Lieutenant. 
 
 William Thorn, Purser. 
 
 John Edwards, Surgeon 
 
 C. J. Beverley, Assistant Surgeon. 
 
 Messrs. Skene and Ross, .... Admiralty Midshipmen* 
 P. V. 28. 4 Q 
 
^GG ROSS'S VOYAGE TO 
 
 John Bushnan, Midshipman and Clerk. 
 
 Benjamin Lewis, Master and Greenland Pilot 
 
 Thomas Wilcox, ^. Mate, ditto, ditto. 
 
 On Board the Aiexander. 
 
 William Edward Parry, .... Commander. 
 
 11. 11. Jtl()«>j>iier, ,,,. Lieutenant 
 
 *Mes!^rs. Bisson and Nius, .... Adiiiiralty Midshipmen. 
 
 Alexander Fisher, Assistant Suri^eon. 
 
 W. II. Hooper, Purser. 
 
 John Allison, Master and Greenland Pilot. 
 
 Joseph Philips, Mate, ditto, ditto, 
 
 James Halse, Clerk. 
 
 During their stay at Deptford, they were joined by John 
 Sacheuse, an Esquimaux, native of 8outh>east Bay, 
 Greenland, in latitude 69^ N., and longitude 50* W. It 
 appears that he had concealed himself on board the Thomas 
 and Ann, of Leith, in the month of May, 1816: on being 
 discovered, Captain Newton, who commanded that vessel, 
 wished to land him again, but he earnestly entreated to be 
 permitted to remain, and was accordingly brought to Leith, 
 He returned to Greenlahd with the same ship in 1817, and, 
 on his arrival at home, found that his only near relation 
 had died in his absence. It was not ascertained, at his 
 first outset, what were his motives for quitting his na- 
 tive country ; but it seemed now, that the death of this rela- 
 tion was his reason for continuing in the ship, which he 
 did, returning to Leith with her the same season. Captain 
 Ross had several conversations with him on the subject ; he 
 related many adventures and narrow escapes he had expe^ 
 rienced in 'his canoe, in one of which he stated himself to 
 have been carried to sea in a storm with fiv« others, all of 
 whom perished, and that he was miraculously saved by an 
 English ship. He also said that he had, through the mis- 
 sionaries, been converted to Christianity, and the strong 
 desire he had to see the country these good men came from, 
 bad induced him to desert his own ; but that it was alwayg 
 
THE ARCrrc REGIONS. 6()7 
 
 his intention to return, when he had learnt the Scriptures 
 and the art of drawing. 
 
 During his residence at Leith, in the winter of 1817, he 
 had been taken notice of by Mr. Nasmyth, the artist, who 
 introduced him to Sir James Hall. His wishes to accom- 
 pany Captain Ross were made known to the Admiralty 
 through Captain Bazil Hall, and he was consequently en- 
 gaged as interpreter. 
 
 On the 18th of April 1818, the ships dropped down to 
 Galleons. From the prevalence, however, of contrary 
 winds while in the river, and their subsequent detention^ 
 at Sheerness, for the purpose of paying the crews an ad- 
 vance of three months^ wages, it was not until the 25th that 
 they took their final departure. 
 
 On the 30tb they reached Lerwick in Shetland. An ex- 
 cellent seaman, who was discharged at his own request, by 
 Captain Oliver, from the Prince of Wales revenue cruiser, 
 joined the expedition. He was accompanied by another 
 volunteer, who did the duty of cook on board, and who 
 was also a performer on the violin. Thp latter talent they 
 often found of use in their operations of tracking the ship 
 through the ice; the severity of this labour being lightened 
 by the character of amusement which was given to it, in 
 consequence of the tracking party being always led by the 
 musician. He also served to divert the people in those un- 
 occupied hours when the spirits of seamen are apt to flag for 
 want of objects, or to be employed in mischievous practices 
 subversive of discipline. 
 
 On the 9th of June, they arrived in latitude 68 deg. 
 and ran by the edge lif the fixed ice, sailing along it till 
 they approached the land, when they found it closely joined, 
 and no water to be seen over it from the mast-head ; they 
 made fast to an iceberg of convenient height, which was 
 aground near two small islands, that they supposed to lis 
 otr North Bay. 
 
 5?ume native Esquimaux came oflf, from whom they learnt 
 4 Q 2 
 
668 ROSS*S VOYAGE TO 
 
 that this berg had remained aground in the same place 
 since the last year. They also said, that the ice was close 
 all the way from thence to Disco, and that no ship had yet 
 got up thither. 
 
 At noon of the 10th they fell in with several ships em- 
 ployed in the whale fishery ; one of them belonging to Dun- 
 dee, the rest to Hull. They had all been successful. 
 From the master of one of the ships, the Brunswick, of 
 Hull, they gained intelligence that he had been in the bay 
 to the westward of Disco ; where, according to the chart, 
 there is good anchorage. He had also seen Hare Island, 
 »nd conjectured there was a good deal of clear ice about it. 
 He had got into and out of South-East Bay, between two 
 floes of ice. The whole bay between Dog and Whale Is- 
 lands was covered with ice. The governor ot the Whale 
 Islands had informed him, that the ice was broken up, and 
 froze again, no less than three times this season. Theshi[> 
 had only that morning got clear of the ice, in which she and 
 several others had been pent up for fourteen days, and they 
 left four still beset. 
 
 On the 14th of June they ran close to the largest of several 
 islands placed in the entrance of Disco Bay, which is called 
 Whale Island. This is apparently six miles in length, 
 formed of a black rugged sterile rock, of considerable ele- 
 vation^ but low when compared with the huge mountains 
 of Disco, which were seen over it. It has a good harbour, 
 which has three entrances, but the best is pointed out by a 
 flagstaff, and is on the S.W. quarter. 
 
 This island is called by the Danes, Kron Prins Island, and 
 is in lat. 63° 54' N. and long. 53^30' W. Its inhabitants 
 consist of the governor of the factory, his wife and chil- 
 dren, together with six Danes^ and an hundred Esquimaux, 
 who are employed during the season in catching seals and 
 whales. The chief object in communicating with this fac- 
 tory, since it could be done without loss of time, was to 
 gain information respecting the state of the ice from the Da- 
 
THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 669 
 
 hish resident ; guns were therefore fired, and a kajak vva» 
 despatched with a message inyiting him on board. This 
 had the desired effect, and inspector Flushe, a respectable 
 looking young man, who had been an officer in the Danish 
 Navy, came on board in a boat manned with Europeans. 
 His information was much calculated to damp their hopes 
 of getting to the northward this season. During the eleven 
 winters he had passed, not one be said had been so severe 
 or protracted as the last : the sea had frozen up in the be- 
 ginning of December, where it was usually open until Fe- 
 bruary, and Disco Bay and harbour, which were ge- 
 nerally navigable towards the end of March, still continued 
 shut. During the spring the ice had twice partly broken 
 up, but had been reunited by a fresh formation of hard frost, 
 before it C«!ild fliiilaway. He cousidered the attempt to 
 get much farther to the North as hopeless, the Danes not 
 having been able to communicate by sea for two seasons 
 past with their Northern settlements. As an additional 
 proof of the severity of the preceding winter, he said, that 
 they had this year been reduced to great distress for provi- 
 sions, and had been obliged to kill their dogs for food, ow- 
 ing to the impossibility of procuring seals during the winter. 
 
 Captain Ross was not a little surprised at this informa- 
 tion, after the confidence with which the diminished rigour 
 of the climate had been described at home before they began 
 their voyage, and after the anticipations of success which 
 had been so warmly entertained by those who had so ea- 
 gerly entered into the plan for promoting it. The report 
 of the Danish resident was certainly in decided opposition 
 to those of the persons who had described the breaking up 
 and dispersion of the polar ice, and who appear in this in- 
 stance to have been guided rather by their imaginations 
 than by a real knowledge of the circumstances attending 
 this sea. 
 
 On the following day they worked with all sail to the 
 
67? ROSS'S VOYAGE TO 
 
 northward ; Disco was in sight ; and no ice except the 
 bergs were to be seen. At eight in the evening of the next 
 day the two ships were made fast to an iceberg, about 
 one mile from the N.E. side of Hare island. They found 
 here forty-five ships employed in the whale fishery, all de- 
 tained by the ice ; and as there appeared to be little chance 
 of getting further for some days, it was determined on mak- 
 ing observations on shore ; for this purpose the observatory 
 and instruments were landed, and tents erected for the offi- 
 cers who were appointed to attend them. While on shore, 
 parties were occupied in collecting specimens of natural his- 
 tory. The iceberg to which the ships were fastened, sud- 
 denly got afloat ; and was carried with great rapidity to- 
 ward the west ; it soon, however, grounded again, and 
 the Alexander remained attached to it ; not having followed 
 the example of the Isabella in laying hold of another which 
 was more secure, near to which they drifted at the time the 
 former gave way. 
 
 They remained here till (he 20th of June ; when the ice 
 having loosened considerably, they cast off from the ice- 
 berg and used every effort to get forward. This was ef- 
 fected by dint of labour, all hands with the boats were cm- 
 ployed in towing and warping the ships among packs of ice, 
 through which it was frequently necessary to cut a passage. 
 Many of the whalers followed their example. 
 
 On the 24tli, when both s!ii})S were in a very dangerous 
 passage, a light wind from the North-west put the ice sud- 
 denly in motion ; and in spite of every exertion, the Isa- 
 bella was driven into sixteen feet water, and the Alexander 
 was, for a few minutes, actually aground. The whalers, 
 which were astern, sent their boats, and aided, by every 
 means in their power, the exertions of the men to free the 
 ship from this perilous situation, which was accomplished 
 by running hawsers out to the nearest berg, and heaving 
 the ships through the ice. The conduct of the Masters of 
 
THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 6?1 
 
 the Eggington, Brothers, Tngria, and Thornton, all of 
 Hull, was highly meritorious, and they received the de- 
 served acknowledgements for their ready services. The 
 first-named of these ships having headed the Isabella, was 
 persevering in her course, when she was of a sudden beset 
 by a large floe of ice, and carried on shore ; they had then 
 an opportunity of making a return for the kindness expe- 
 rienced, and assisted in liberating her. A serious accident 
 happened on board the Ariel whaler, a boat belonging to 
 her having been crushed by the ice against the ship's side, 
 by which one of her crew was killed, and another much 
 hurt. 
 
 On the 29th, the weather being moderate, Captain Ross 
 ordered the Esquimaux, John Sacheuse, who had accom- 
 panied the expedition from England as interpreter, to go on 
 shore and communicate with the natives. He returned with 
 seven natives in their canoes,' or kajaks, bringing a small 
 supply of birds. Their village, lying on the south side of 
 the bay, appeared to consist of a few huts made of seal-skins, 
 sufficient for the residence of about fifty persons. Being 
 desirous of procuring a sledge and dogs, Captain Ross of- 
 fered them a rifle musket for one completely fitted, which 
 they promised to fetch ; with much honesty and principle, 
 however, refusing to accept the rifle till they had brought 
 the sledge. They soon returned, bringing the sledge and 
 dogs in a boat managed by five women, dressed in deer- 
 skins. Two of these women were daughters of a Danish 
 resident by an Equimaux woman. One of the men also 
 was the son of a Dane, and they were all of the colour of 
 Mulattoes. 
 
 They soon became intimate with their visitors and invited 
 them into the cabin, where they were treated with coffee 
 and biscuit, and their portraits taken. After leaving the 
 cabin, they danced Scotch reels on the deck with the sailors, 
 to the animating strains of the musician. Sacheuse's mirth 
 and joy exceeded ail bounds; and, with a good-humoured 
 
672 ROSS*S VOYAGE TO 
 
 officiousness, justified by the important distinction whieh 
 Ills superior knowledi^e now gave him, he performed th© 
 oflSce of master of the ceremonies. 
 
 A daughter of the Danish resident, about eighteen years 
 of age, and by far the best looking of the group, was the ob^ 
 ject of Sacheuse's particular attentions ; which, being ob- 
 served by one of the officers, he gave him a lady's shawl, 
 ornamented with spangles, as an offering for her accep- 
 tance. He presented it in a most respectful, and not un- 
 graceful manner, to the damsel, who bashfully took a pew- 
 ter ring from her finger and gave it to him in return : re- 
 warding him, at the same time with a smile, which could leave 
 no doubt on tlie Esquimaux^s mind that he had made an im- 
 pression on her heart. After the ball, coffee was again 
 served, and at eight o'clock the party left. The ice begin- 
 ning to break up ; a channel was found leading towards the 
 Black Hook by the Majestic, of London, and every ship 
 crowded to sail after her. 
 
 They continued their course till July 17, when two ice- 
 floes closed in upon them, and they were completely jammed 
 in. The Isabella underwent a very severe pressure, but 
 fortunately without damage, though she was lifted several 
 feet out of water ; the concussion lasted fifteen minutes ; 
 the floes then receded a little, and favoured the exertions 
 used to heave her through, which was effected after two 
 hours' labour, by purshases brought from each quarter and 
 bow to the windlass and capstern. The Alexander, and 
 some of the whalers, suffered in the same way. 
 
 On the 31st, it being calm, a boat was sent after a whale, 
 which appeared to be pariicularly marked, being black and 
 white : he was soon harpooned by the Isabella's boat ; the 
 first harpoon sticking him on the back a little behind the 
 left fin, and at first appearing to be effectual. The boat 
 was then carried to the edge of the ice, and several lines 
 veered away, but, after holding a time, it was perceived 
 that he had escaped j he soon however appeared, about a 
 
 1 
 
THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 673 
 
 mile and a Vialf distant, with the harpoon in his back, being 
 then a loose fish. As he remained near the surface, and ap- 
 peared to suffer from the wound, the young officers of both 
 ships, who each commanded boats, pulled with emulation 
 to the spot where each expected him to rise, waiting for the 
 moment of his appearance with anxiety. Fortune favoured 
 Mr. James Ross, the animal rising nearest to his boat, and 
 giving his harpooner an opportunity of infixing his weapon, 
 following it by a third and fourth, which made the capture 
 certain. He was now much exhausted, and obliged to re- 
 main near the surface, thereby exposing himself to the lan- 
 cers ; the blood, at intervals, flowing from his wounds, and 
 being thrown up in volumes as he rose to breathe. At 
 length, becoming exhausted, he had only strength to make 
 a last and most terrible struggle. The people in the boats, 
 aware of their danger, retreated, leaving him to spend his 
 fury on the water, where he was seen rolling and writhing 
 in dreadful agony, lashing the sea from side to side with his 
 tail and fins, till he expired: he then sunk, remaining sus- 
 pended by the lines of the harpooners, who weighed him to 
 the surface, and towed him on board in triumph 
 
 On the 6th of August, the^ weather proving fine, the ships 
 were tracke<l with labour through about a mile of bay-ice to 
 tlie narrowest part of a floe which obstructed their passage 
 into the pool a-head ; the usual resort was had to sawing, but 
 their labours were soon suspended by the discovery of a pas^ 
 sage a little to the eastward. To this, therefore, they 
 warped the ships through the loose and bay-ice, and thus 
 managed to proceed about a mile further. 
 
 As it appeared likely their people would be at work 
 throughout the night, an extra allowance of provisions was 
 served out ; their labours were incessant till half-past one, 
 when, being almost worn out with exertion, they were al- 
 owed to rest till five. At half-past six the ice began to 
 move, and the wind increasing to a gale, the only chance 
 left was to endeavour to force the ship through it to the north, 
 
 P. V. 29. 4 R 
 
674 
 
 where it partialliy opened ; but the channel was so much 
 obstructed by heavy fragnoeftts, that the utmost efforts were 
 ineffectual'; the fieM closed in, and, at noon, they felt Us 
 pressure most severely. A larj^ettoe which lay on oaeside 
 of the Isabella appeared* to be ftxe^l, wlwile, on> the other side, 
 anofher of considerable bulk was passing aUnvv; with a ra- 
 pid iftotton, assuming a sontewtial circular direeticn, io 
 consecpieiKJe of on« side kiv'n-^ stri^ek ou the fixed fielvl. 
 The presj^re eontinui'i'i'i^ t» increase, it be^JMrie* cfc««btrul). 
 whether the ship wou-M be abFe to sH^ta-in it ; every support 
 threatened to j^ive way ; the beaniJ* in the Irokl began to 
 bend, and the iron- tanks settlet^ toi^^'ther. At this critical 
 mo«)eiit, when it seennd iinposstbl'e td If^ear t4ie aeewmiilat- 
 ing pressure ttilich longer, the hull rose several feet ; wh.i'>o 
 the ice, which was more than six feet thick, broke agai»st 
 the «ide», curKng back on itself. T!»e great stress b«w M\ 
 upon tiieir bow, ajid, after being again lifted up, they were 
 carried with great violence towards the Alexander, which 
 had hitherto been, in a great measure, defended by the Isa- 
 bella. Every effort to avoid their getting foul of each other 
 failed ; the ice- anchors and cables broke one after another, 
 and the sterns of the two ships came so violently into con- 
 tact, aa to crush to pieces a boat that could rtot be removed 
 in time. The collision was tremendous, the anchor* and 
 chain-plates being broken, and nothing less than the loss of 
 the masts expected : but, at this eventful instant, by the in- 
 terposition of Providence, the force of the ice seemed ex- 
 hausted ; the two fields suddenly receded, and the Isabella 
 passed the Alexander with comparative little damage. 
 The last things that hooked each other were the two bower 
 anchors, which, being torn from the bows, remained sus- 
 pended in a line between the two ships, until that of the 
 Alexander gave way. A clear channel soon after opened, 
 and they ran into a pool, thus escaping immediate dangefi 
 Neither the masters, the mates, nor those men who had 
 been all their livies in the Greenland service, had ever ex- 
 
THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 675 
 
 perienced such iraroeiise peril ; and they declared, tliat a 
 common whaler must have been crushed to atoms. 
 
 It was soon after perceived, that a field of ice, to which 
 they moored, yfas drifting rapidly on a reef of icebergs 
 -which lay aground ; the topsails were therefore close-reefed, 
 in order that tliey might run between two bergs, or into 
 any creek that might be found among them ; when sud- 
 denly the field acquired a circular motion, so that every 
 exertion was now necessary for warping along the edge, 
 that being the sole chance they had of escaping the danget 
 of being crushed on an iceberg. In a few minutes they 
 observed a part of the field, into which they had attempted 
 to cut docks, come in contact with the berg) with such 
 rapidity and violence, as to rise more than fifty feet up its 
 precipitous side, where it suddenly broke, tlie elevated 
 part falling back on the rest with a terrible crash, and 
 overwhelming with its ruins the very spot they had previ- 
 ously chosen for their safety. 8oon afterwards the ice 
 appeared sufficiently open to pass the reef of bergs, and 
 they once more were in a place of security 
 
 On the 9th they were surprised by the appearance of 
 several men on the ice, who were hallooing to the shifw : 
 the first impression was, that they were shipwrecked sailors, 
 probably belonging to some vessel that had been crushed 
 in the late gale ; they therefore tacked, hoisted their 
 colours, and stood in for the shore. On approaching 
 the ice, they discovered them to be natives, drawn on 
 rudely-fashioned sledges, by dogs^ which they continued 
 to drive backwards and forwards with wonderful rapidity 
 When they arrived within hail, Sacheuse called out to them, 
 in his own language : some words were heard in return, 
 to which a reply was again made to the Esquimaux ; but 
 neither party appeared to be in the least degree inteUigible 
 to the other. For some time they continued to regard 
 the ships in silence, but, on tacking, they set up a Nimuka- 
 iicous shout, accompanied with many strange gesticulation-^ 
 
676 
 
 and went off in their sledges with great velocity towards 
 the land. 
 
 It being necessary to examine if there was a passage in 
 this place, the ships stood towards the head of the pool, 
 which was about four miles off, trusting that, in the mean 
 time, they would return to the same spot, to which it was 
 also their intention to come back, after examining into the 
 chances of a passage northward. No opening was, liow- 
 ever, found ; and they therefore returned after an absence 
 of ten hours. 
 
 About ten o'clock on the following day, eight sledges 
 appeared, driven by the natives, advancing by a circuitous 
 route towards them ; they halted about a mile off, and the 
 people alighting, ascended a small iceberg, as if to re- 
 connoitre, After remaining apparently in consultation for 
 nearly half an hour, four of them descended, and came 
 towards a flag-staff, which, however, they did not venture 
 to approach. In the mean time a white flag was hoisted at 
 the main in ^ach ship^ and John Sacheuse dispatched, 
 bearing a small white flag, with some presents, that he 
 might endeavour, if possible, to bring them to a parley. 
 This was a service which he bad most cheerfully volun- 
 teered^ requesting leave to go unattended and unarmed, 
 a request to which no objection could be made, as the 
 place chosen for the meeting was within half a mile of the 
 Isabella. It was equally advantageous to the natives, a 
 canal, or small chasm in the ice, not passable without a 
 plank, separating the parties from each other, and pre- 
 venting any possibility of an attack from these people, un- 
 less by darts. 
 
 In executing this service, Sacheuse displayed no less 
 address than courage. Having placed his flag at some 
 distance from the canal^ he advanced to the edge, and 
 taking off his hat, made friendly signs for those opposite 
 to approach, as he did ; this they partly complied with, 
 halting at a distance of three hundred yards, where they 
 
TH B A R CT I C REGION S. G77 
 
 g;ot out of theii* sledges, and set up a loud simultaneous 
 halloo, which Sacheuse answered by imitating it. 'I'hey 
 then ventured to approach a little nearer, having nothing 
 in their hands but the whips with which they guide their 
 dogs ; and, after satisfying themselves that the canal was 
 impassable, one of them in particular seemed to acquire 
 confidence. Shouts, words, and gestures, were exchanged 
 for some time to no purpose, though each party seemed, 
 in some degree, to recognise each other's language. Sa- 
 cheuse, after a time, thought he could discover that they 
 spoke the Humooke dialect, drawling out their words, 
 however, to an unusual length. He immediately adopted 
 that dialect, and, holding up the present, called out to 
 them, Kahkeite, come on 1 to which they answered, Naakrie, 
 naakrieai-plaite, no, no — go away ; and other words 
 which he made out to mean, that they hoped they were 
 not come to destroy them. The boldest then approached 
 to the edge of the canal, and drawing from his boot a knife, 
 repeated, Go away ; 1 can kill you. Sacheuse, not inti- 
 midated, told them he was also a man and a friend, and, at 
 the same time, threw across the canal some strings of beads 
 and a chequed shirt ; but these they beheld with great dis- 
 trust and apprehension, still calling. Go away, don't kill 
 us. Sacheuse then threw them an English knife, saying. 
 Take that. On this they approached with caution, picked 
 up the knife, then shouted and pulled their noses. These 
 actions were imitated by Sacheuse, who in return, called 
 out, Heigh, yaw ! pulling his nose with the same gesture. 
 They now pointed to the shirt, demanding what it was, and 
 when told it was an article of clothing, asked of what skin 
 it was made. Sacheuse replied. It was made of the hair 
 of an animal which they had never seen ; on which they 
 picked ct up with expressions of surprise. They now 
 began to ask many questions ; for, by this time, they 
 found the language, spoken by themselves and Sacheuse, 
 
G78 Ross's VOYAGE TO 
 
 had sufficient resemblance (o enable them to hold some 
 comnoiunication. 
 
 Captain Ross and Lieutenant Parry now visited them, 
 taking additional presents of looking glasses and knives, 
 with some caps and shirts. By the time they reached them 
 the whole party were assembled ; those who had been ori- 
 ginally left at a distance with their sledges, having driven 
 up to join their comrades. The party now therefore con- 
 sisted of eight natives, with ail their sledges, and about 
 fifty dogs, two sailors, Sacheuse, Lieutenant Parry, and 
 Captain Ross ; forming a group of no small singularity, 
 which was not a Uttlc increased by the circumstance of the 
 meeting taking place on a field of ice and at a considerable 
 distance from the land. 
 
 Perceiving that the natives were considerably alarmed, 
 Sacheuse called to them to pull their noses, as he had dis- 
 covered this to be the mode of friendly salutation with these 
 people. This ceremony war- accordingly performed by each 
 of the party ; the natives also retreated, making use of the 
 same gesture, the nature of which was now well understood. 
 In the same way the English party imitated tlieir shouts as 
 well as they could, using the same expression Heigh, yaw ! 
 which appeared to be an expression of siirprise and plea- 
 sure. Captain Ross tlien advanced towards them, and 
 presented the foi'emost with a looking glass and a knife, re- 
 peating the same presents to the whole, as they came u]) in 
 succession. Having now acquired confidence, they ad- 
 vanced, offering, in return for knives, glasses and beads, 
 their knives, sea-unicorns horns and sea-horse teeth, which 
 were accepted. One of them having enquired what was the 
 use of a red cap which had been given him, Sacheuse put 
 it on his head, to the great amusement of the rest, each of 
 whom put it on in his turn. The whole party now [)w- 
 ceeded to the ships. Their shouts, halloos and laughter were 
 heartily joined in, and imitated by all han<ls, as well as the 
 ceremony of nose pulling. That which most of all excited 
 
Tin: ARCTIC RFCIONS. G79 
 
 i\mr a«lniiratioH, was the circumstance of a sailor going; 
 al»ft, and they kept their eyes on bim till he reached the 
 soflamit of the mast ; the sails which hong loose they sup- 
 posed to be skins. 
 
 They were now loaded with various presents, consisting' 
 of some artielf»s of clothing, biscuit, and pieces of wood, 
 in addition to which the plank that had been used in 
 crossing (he clrasm, was given to thena. They then de- 
 parted, promising to return as soon as they had eaten and 
 slept, as there was no means of f xplaining to them what 
 to-morrow meant. The parting was attended with the ce- 
 remony of pulling noses on both sides. 
 
 After they had reached and crossed the chasm, they were 
 ohserTcd by some men, who had been sent to accompany 
 them, throwing away the biscuit, and splitting the |>lank, 
 which was of teak, into small pieces, for the purpose of 
 dividing it among the party. Soon after this they mounted 
 their sledges, and drove off in a body, hallooing apparently 
 in great glee. 
 
 On the 13th they were gratified by the appearance of 
 three of the natives at a distance. Preparations were made 
 for continuing their intercourse, if they should prove to be 
 the same as had been seen before, or for obtaining a parley, 
 if they should prove to be strangers. 
 
 The tiag-staff, as on a former occasion, was, therefore, 
 pitched at some distance from the ships, and the natives were 
 shortly seen to approach it, without much hesitation or 
 aTarm. They were observed to take down the bag that was 
 attached to it ; but after examining the contents, they 
 restored them to their place, and returned to their sledges. 
 Sacheuse was then furnished with presents, and sent to 
 speak with them. He found immediately that they were 
 not their old friends, but other natives, who had received a 
 good report of them, together with the history of their br*irtg 
 people that lived beyond the ice, and that this had prevented 
 any alarm. 
 
f)80 ROas'S VOYAOR TO 
 
 It being proposed that they should drive close to the ship 
 on their sledges, the eldest got into his sledge, for this pur- 
 pose, and they had thus an opportunity of witnessing the 
 mode in which he managed his dogs. These were six in 
 number, each having a collar of seal-skin, two inches wide, 
 to which the one end of a thong, made of strong hide, about 
 three yards long, was tied, the other end being fastened to 
 the fore part of the sledge : thus they all stood nearly abreast, 
 each drawing by a single trace, without reins. No sooner 
 did they hear the crack of the whip, than they set off at full 
 speed, while he seemed to manage them with the greatest 
 ease, guiding them partly by his voice, and partly by the 
 sound of the whip. On approaching the sailors, however, 
 they became so terrified, that it was with some difficulty 
 they could be stopped. They were at length fastened to the 
 ice, and one of the younger men, who had come up behind, 
 was left in charge of the whole. 
 
 When Sacheuse was desired to ask if they had a king, he 
 pronounced the words NuUikab, signifying a person in au* 
 thority; then Nakouack, i.e. a strong man, who can kill 
 more seals, and is respected or dreaded ; but they did not 
 understand him. He at last recollected that Pisarsuak had 
 been used as the name of chief; they immediately answered 
 in the affirmative, and said his name was Tulioowak. 
 
 It was about three o'clock when they departed, highly 
 pleased, The ice being covered with small protuberant 
 bergs, they were soon lost sight of as they drove away 
 towards the shore ; to gain which, they were obliged to fol- 
 low a very circuitous route ; this arose from a number of 
 pools and chasms in the ice, as it was evident that they 
 were only three or four miles from the land in a direct line. 
 
 The greatest number of natives seen was about eighteen ; 
 many attempts were made to discover the numbers of the 
 tribe, but without success, as they could reckon no farther 
 than five, and could therefore only say, '* plenty ])eople/' 
 
THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 681 
 
 iKyinting to the north ; but it must be recollected, that this 
 was only a party detached from the main body. 
 
 The ships being again under sail, with more cheering 
 prospects before them, proceeded along the margin of the 
 ice, where it appeared attached to the land, with a fine 
 breeze from the north. In about two hours they arrived at 
 the barrier of icebergs. Having passed through many in- 
 tricate and narrow channels, at four o'clock they rounded a 
 cape, which they named after the Duke of York, in com- 
 memoration of the birth-day of His Royal Highness. The 
 land, from this cape, took a W.by N. direction ; they conti- 
 nued to steer along it, at the distance of four miles, and, for 
 the first time, saw the sea wash the rocks. 
 
 August 17th, they continued their course along the land, 
 at the distance of five or six miles, among numerous berg» 
 and pieces of loose ice. They discovered that the snow on 
 the face of the cliffs presented an appearance both novel and 
 interesting, being apparently stained, or covered, by some 
 substance, which gave it a deep crimson colour. Many con^ 
 jectures were formed concerning the cause of this appear- 
 ance ; it was at once determined, that it could not arise from 
 the dung of birds, as thousands of these, of various descrip- 
 tions, were seen repeatedly sitting on the ice, and on the 
 snow, but without producing any such effect. 
 
 A boat with Mr. Ross, Mr. Beverley, and others, was sent 
 to bring off some of the snow, and to make their remarks 
 on the circumstances attending it ; they were also ordered 
 to procure specimens of natural history, and to ascertain if 
 this part of the country was inhabited. The boat arrived at 
 the shore nearly at low water, and found that the tide had 
 fallen nine feet. The party remained two hours on shore, 
 and found the cliffs were accessible at the spot where they 
 landed ; but they did not get to the top, being recalled in 
 consequence of a breeze which sprung up. They found 
 that the snow was penetrated, in may places to a depth of 
 ten or twelve feet, by the colouring matter, and that it had 
 
 P.V.29. 4 S 
 
6%2 Ross's VOYAGE TO 
 
 tlie appearance of baving been a long time in that state. 
 The boat returned at seven with a quantity of this snow, 
 together with specimens of the vegetation, and of the rocks. 
 The snow was examined by a microscope, magnifying 110 
 times, and the substance seem«d to consist of particles 
 resembling a very minute round seed, all of them being of 
 the same size, and of a deep red colour ; on some of these 
 globules a small dark speck was alsio seen. It was the 
 general opinion of the officers that this was a vegetable sub- 
 stance, an opinion continned by the nature of the places 
 where it was found. These were the sides of the hills, about 
 six hundred feet high, the tops of which were covered with 
 vegetation of a yellowish-green and reddish-brown colours. 
 'I'he extent of these cliifs was about eight miles; behind 
 them at a considerable distance, high mountains were seen, 
 but the snow which covered these was not coloured. Some 
 of the snow was dissolved, and bottled, when the water had 
 the appearance of muddy port- wine. In a few hours it de- 
 posited a sediment ; which was examined by the microscope ; 
 some of it was bruised, and found to be composed wholly of 
 red matter ; when applied to paper, it produced a colour 
 resembling that of Indian red. This substance has been 
 examined since the return of the ships to this country, and 
 various opinions given concerning it, but Dr. Wollaston 
 seems to concur in the opinion of its being a vegetable 
 substanjoe produced on the mountain immediately above it. 
 It cannot be a marine production, as in several places 
 they saw it at least six miles from the sea, but always on the 
 face or near the foot of a mountain. 
 
 In the course of their tedious and often laborious progress 
 through the icct H became necessary to keep the whole of 
 the crew at the most fatiguing work, sometimes for several 
 days and nights without intermission. When this was the 
 case, an extra meal was served to them at midnight, gene- 
 pMy of preserved meat ; and it was found tliat this nou- 
 dshmcnt, when the mind and body were boih ociJUpied, and 
 
TffE ARCTfC RECroNS. 683 
 
 the sun continually present, rendered them capable of re- 
 maining without sleep, so that they often passed three 
 days in this manner without any visible inconvenience ; 
 returning after a meal of this kind to their labour on the 
 ice, or in the boats, quite refreshed, and continuing at it 
 without a murmur. The exercise was doubtless a consider- 
 able preventive of the scurvy, which was the complaint most 
 to be feared. As long as the vec^etables lasted, no lime- 
 juice was served ; when the men got wet, which often hap- 
 pened, they were made to shift their clothes and put on dry 
 ones : caps of canvas, lined with flannel, were made for 
 them; these were conical in shape, and large enough to 
 cover the shoulders, and button under the chin ; they had 
 the effect of keeping the neck and breast warm, and being 
 painted on the outside, turned the water off effectually ; 
 Ihey were made use of in rainy, snowy, or foggy weather. 
 With these precautions, and the men being all of good 
 constitution, they never had a sick person, and when they 
 arrived at this part of their voyage, no crews were ever in 
 higher health aud spirits. 
 
 Lieutenant Robertson, and other officers, were stationed 
 at the mast-head to look out for the direction of the coast ; 
 and they made their reports that they were satisfied they 
 had seen the laud completely round this bay at different 
 times; as did al:^o the officers of the Alexander, who were 
 at the mast' head of that ship at the same time. 
 
 On the 19th of Auifust, at fifty minutes past midnight 
 the ship being nearly on the seventy -seventh degree of 
 north latitude, ten leagues to the westward of Cape S'au^ 
 marez, which forms the east 8id« and the bottom of this bay, 
 the land was distinctly seen. On the 20th and 21st, 
 when off Cape Clarence, at the distance of six leagues, the 
 land which forms the west side, and the bottom of this bay, 
 was also distinctly seen, and by two observations the coast 
 is flotermined to be connected all round. At each of these 
 periods this immense bay was observed to be covered with 
 
 4 S 2 
 
084 Ross's VOYAGE TO 
 
 field- ice ; besides which, a vast chain of iarge icebergs wag( 
 seen to extend across it ; these were apparently aground, 
 and had probably been driven on shore there by southerly 
 gales. It was also observed, that the tide rose and fell only 
 four feet, and that the stream was scarcely perceptible. 
 
 On the 20th, they were by reckoning, in latitude 76® 54' 
 N., Cape Saumarez ten leagues distant, and Carey's Is- 
 land bearing about S.E. Having determined that there 
 was no passage further to the northward, they stood under 
 easy sail to the S.W. for ten miles further, during which 
 they had much difficulty to avoid the loose ice with which 
 the sea was covered, and it becoming thicker the nearer 
 they approached the shore, they hove to in this position, for 
 the fog to clear away 
 
 From these several considerations it appears perfectly 
 certain that the land is here continuous, and that there is 
 no opening at the northernmost part of Baffin's Bay from 
 Hackluifs Island to Cape Clarence. Even if it be ima- 
 gined that some narrow Strait may exist through these 
 mountains, it is clearly evident, that it must for ever be 
 unnavigable, and that there is not even a chance of as- 
 certaining its existence, since all approach to the bottoms 
 of these bays is prevented by the ice which fills them to so 
 great a depth, and appears never to have moved from its 
 station. 
 
 Being thus satisfied that there was no opening into the 
 Pacific through these seas and that there could be no further 
 inducement to continue longer in this place, and it being 
 necessary to husband the little time yet remaining, for the 
 work which was still to be done, Captain Ross ordered ac- 
 curate bearings of the different headlands to be taken, and 
 having named the remarkable cape forming the west side of 
 the bay, after the Duke of Clarence, in commemoration of 
 the birth«day of his Royul Highness, they shaped their 
 course, on the morning of the 2ist, towards the next open- 
 ing which appeared in view to the westward. 
 
THE ARCTIC REGIONS. <>85 
 
 They now stood for a Sound which they had seen on the 
 21st, tacking and bearing up occasionally to avoid the ice, 
 which was generally from six to twelve feet thick, very un- 
 even, and in pieces of various shapes ; they found it inapos- 
 sible to keep clear of it, and the ship unavoidably received 
 sonoe severe shocks, but fortunately suffered no damage. 
 Towards the evening they successively made out the north 
 and south points of the land across the bottom of this bay, 
 or inlet, which agreed with Baffin^s description of Jones's 
 Sound. At midnight, a ridge of very high mountains was 
 seen to extend nearly across the bottom of it, joining ano- 
 ther from the south, which was not quite so high. The bay 
 was completely blocked with ice, in which were some very 
 large icebergs ; and from tlie points of land, glaciers of so- 
 lid ice were seen extending for many miles into the sea. It 
 was evident that there could be no passage in that direction, 
 and they, therefore, began to beat to the southward. At 
 eleven at night, a piece of fir wood was picked up : it con- 
 tained nails, and the marks of the plane and adze were also 
 evident. This seems to prove that it must have drifted up 
 the Bay, probably by the strong southerly winds. Many 
 seals were seen, and the tracks of bears were visible on the 
 ice in many places. 
 
 On the 30th of August, near a Cape which they named 
 Cape Charlotte, a wide opening appeared ; but the wind 
 shifting to the west, they could not stand in to explore it, 
 and therefore stood to the southward; but, at ten in the 
 evening, the wind ehanged to the south, when they tacked 
 and stood in under all sail. The swell continued from 
 the S.S.E., and, at midnight, the weather was very thick 
 and foggy. 
 
 They saw the land which forms the northern side of the 
 opening, extending from west to north in a chain of high 
 mountains covered with snow. Soon afterwards the south 
 side of this opening was discovered, extending from S.W. 
 
686 Ross's VOYAdK TO 
 
 to S.E, forming also a chain of very high mountains. Irt 
 the space between west and south-west, there appeared a 
 yellow sky, but no land was seen, nor was there any ice on 
 the water, except a few icebergs ; the opening, therefore, 
 took the appearance of a channel, the entrance of which was 
 judged to be fort \ -five miles wide; the land on tlie norih 
 side lying in an EN.E and W.S.W. direction, and on the 
 south side, nearly east and west. 
 
 Having had good observations for time, and a raeridiuii 
 altitude of the sun, the latitude and longitude were accu- 
 rately determined; and, at the same time, the bearings of 
 the land were taken and registered. Divine service was 
 performed ; and, in the afternoon, the wind having obliged 
 them to stand to the south side, they had an excellent view 
 of the most magnificent chain of mountains ever beheld. 
 This, and the Cape which terminates it, and forms the east^ 
 ern extremity of the land on that side of the channel, was 
 named after Sir Byara Martin, in compliment to the Comp- 
 troller of His Majesty's Navy ; and the various capes and 
 bays in this tract of land, were also named after his amiable 
 family and nearest relatives. These mountains, which take 
 their rise from the sea, at Cape Byam Martin on the east, 
 and from a low plain near Catherine's Bay on the west, 
 terminate in sharp lofty peaks ; and the rocks which form 
 them being, on one side or the other, and often on every 
 side, too perpendicular for the snow to rest upon, they 
 9te distinctly seen above it, displaying very remarkable 
 forms. In one place, nearly between Cape Fanshawe and 
 Elizabeth's Bay, two rocks, resembling human figures of a 
 gigantic size in a sitting posture, were seen on the highest 
 peak ; and, as it was considerably above the clouds, their 
 appearance was both extraordinary and interesting. 
 
 The snow appeared to be deep in the valleys o^ the inte- 
 rior, but the ravines next the sea were only partly filled with 
 it, and the precipices near the foot of the mountains were 
 perfectly bare. The rest of the day was spent in beating to 
 
THE ARCTIC KEGIONS. 687 
 
 Ibe westward, all sail was carried, and every adYantag^e 
 taken of the changes in the direction and strength of the 
 wind. As the evening closed the wind died uway, the wea. 
 ther became mild and warm, the water mu(ih smoother, and 
 the atmosphere clear and serene. The mountains on each 
 side of the Strait, being clear of clouds, displayed variouft 
 beautiful tints. For the first time they discovered that the 
 land extended from the south two-thirds across this apparent 
 Strait, but the fog which continually occupied that quarter, 
 obscured its real figure. During this day much interest 
 was excited on board by the appearance of this Strait; the 
 general opinion, however, was that it was only an inlet. 
 The land was partially seen extending across, the yellow 
 sky was perceptible; and, as they advanced, the tempera- 
 ture of the water began to decrease. The mast-head and 
 crow's nest was crowded with those who were most anxious, 
 but nothing was finally decided at the setting of the sun. 
 
 Soon after midnight the wind began to shift, and the 
 iihip came gradually up, enithling them to stand directly up 
 the bay ; they, therefore, made all sail, and left the Alex- 
 ander considerably astern. At a little before four o'clock, 
 in the morning, the land was seen at the bottom of the inlet 
 by the officers of the watch. 
 
 Although a passage in this direction appeared hopeless. 
 Captain Ross was determined to explore it completely, as 
 the wind was favourable ; and, therefore, continued all 
 sail. At eight the wind fell a little, and the Alexander 
 being far astern, the Isabella sounded and found six hun- 
 tlred and seventy-four fathoms, with a soft, muddy bottom. 
 There was, however, no current, but the temperature of 
 the mud was 29^*. Soon after this the breeze freshened 
 and they carried all sail, leaving the Alexander and steering 
 directly up the hay. The weather was now variable, being 
 alternately cloudy and clear at intervals. Mr. Beverley, 
 who was the most sanguine, went up to the crow's-nest ; 
 and, at twelve, reported that before it became thick, ho 
 
688 ROSSES VOYAGE TO 
 
 had seen the land across the bay, except for a very short 
 space. The land to the S.E. was very distinct, and they 
 had an excellent transit and bearing of Cape Byam Martin 
 and Cape Fanshawe, with the ship's head on the point of 
 the change, for the purpose of determining the variation, 
 should no azimuths be obtained. Although all hopes were 
 given up, even by the most sanguine, that a passage 
 existed, and the weather continued thick, they determined 
 to stand higher up, and put into any harbour they might 
 discover, for the purpose of making magnetical observa- 
 tions. 
 
 As they stood up the bay two capes on the south side were 
 discovered, one of which was named after the Earl of Liver- 
 pool ; the land which forinod the boundary on one side of 
 Catherine's Bay, was named Cape Hay. On the north 
 side a remarkable conical rock, the only island on this pari 
 of the coast, was discovered, and named Sir George Hope's 
 Monument, afer one of the Lords of the Admiralty, who had 
 recommended Captain Ross for the command of this ex- 
 pedition, and whose signature of his orders on his death- 
 bed was the last act of his valuable life. 
 
 They distinctly saw the land round the bottom of the bay, 
 forming a chain of mountains connected with those which 
 extended along the north and south sides This land ap- 
 peared to be at the distance of eight leagues. There was a 
 continuity of ice, at the distance of seven miles, extending 
 from one side of the bay to the other, between the nearest 
 cape to the north, which was named after Sir George War- 
 render, and that to the south, which was named after Vis- 
 count Castlereagh. 
 
 At a quarter past three, the weather again became thick 
 and unsettled ; and being now perfectly satisfied that there 
 was no passage in this direction, nor any harbour into which 
 they could enter for the purpose of making magnetic obser- 
 vations, they tacked to join the Alexander which was at a 
 distance of eight miles. 
 
THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 689 
 
 They continued to proceed until the 6th of September, 
 when it became calm : afterwards there were some light and 
 variable airs of wind. At eight it again fell calm, and con- 
 tinued so the whole day. The ship's head had, however, 
 been generally kept near the course, by the assistance of 
 the swell, which was from the north ; and they made four- 
 teen miles of southing and a degree of easting, although 
 the log only gave half as much. They obtained some good 
 observations in the forenoon for the longitude ; and the sun 
 being visible in the meridian, they also took its altitude for 
 the purpose of ascertaining the latitude. At six it being 
 quite calm, and the water smooth, they sounded with the 
 deep sea clamms, and found one thousand and Bfty fathoms, 
 which were the deepest soundings they ever reached in 
 Baffin's Bay. As they had only one hundred and twenty 
 fathoms fifteen miles further north, it is evident that the 
 bottom of the sea, like the land, must be very mountainous. 
 The mud at the bottom was so soft that the instrument was 
 completely buried, and it required considerable force to 
 draw it out. The sea being a dead calm, the line became 
 perfectly perpendicular, and they had a good opportunity of 
 obtaining the exact depth before it started out of the 
 ground. The instrument came up completely full, contain- 
 ing about six pounds of mud, mixed with a few stones and 
 some sand. This mud was much coarser than that which 
 they had before obtained, and was also of a much looser na- 
 ture : when the line came up, a small star-fish was found 
 attached to it, below the point marking eight hundred 
 fathoms. The instrument took twenty-seven minutes to 
 descend the whole distance. When atiivehundred fathoms, 
 it descended at the rate of one fathom per second, and when 
 nearly one thousand fathoms down, it required one second 
 and a half per fathom. Although the check made to the 
 motion of the line when it struck the bottom, was evident 
 to all, to put the fact beyond doubt, it was so niely set 
 as to act on the least resistance. The self- registering 
 
 P. V. 29. 4 T 
 
690 Ross's VOYAGE TO 
 
 thermometer, was then attached to it, and it was let down, 
 first to five hundred fathoms, and afterwards to six hun- 
 dred, seven hundred, eight hundred and a thousand, in 
 succession. At each time it came up empty, the thermo- 
 meter each time showing a lower temperature ; thus prov- 
 ing that the water was colder as it became deeper, and also 
 indicating that the instrument had not reached the bottom, 
 even at the depth of one thousand and five fathoms. It 
 occupied one hour for all hands to pull it up from that 
 depth. 
 
 When the boat was off Agnes' Monument, they saw 
 two large bears which swam off to the ships, which were 
 at the distance of six miles from the land ; they fetched 
 the Alexander, and were immediately attacked by the boats 
 of that ship and killed ; one, which was shot through the 
 bead, unfortunately sunk ; the other, on being wounded 
 attacked the boats and shewed considerable play, but was 
 at length secured, and towed to the Isabella by the boats 
 of both ships. In this affair, Mr. Bisson, Mr. Nius, mid- 
 shipmen, and Mr. Fisher, assistant-surgeon of the Alex- 
 ander, shewed much dexterity and address. This animal, 
 weighed one thousand one hundred and thirty-one pounds 
 and a half, besides the blood it had lost, which cannot be 
 estimated at less than thirty pounds. Its dimensions were 
 carefully taken, and Mr. Beverly undertook to preserve the 
 skin, in which he perfectly succeeded ; the bones of the 
 head and feet were also preserved in their places, so that 
 he was sent to the British Museum in excellent order. 
 
 On the 11th, seven leagues to the eastward of this rock, 
 and at two miles distance, they discovered the largest 
 iceberg in latitude 70 they had ever seen at such a distance 
 from the land. As it was nearly calm, they determined on 
 ascertaining its size, and sent Lieutenant Parry, Mr. 
 Ross, and Mr. Bushman, and a boat with the necessary 
 instruments, to obtain the magnetic dip of variation. Con- 
 siderable dilHculty was experienced in the attempt to land, 
 
THE ARCTIC REGIONS ^ 601 
 
 as in rowing round it they found it perpendicular in every 
 place but one ; in this however there was a small creek, in 
 which a convenient landing-place was discovered. When 
 they had ascended to the top, which was perfectly flat, 
 they discovered a white bear, who was in quiet posses- 
 sion of this mass. As their fire-arms had been wetted, it 
 was some time before dispositions could be made for an 
 attack, during which the animal seemed to wait with 
 patience for the assault ; but as soou as they had formed 
 their line and began to advance, he made for the other side 
 of the island. The party had not calculated on any other 
 way to escape but the landing-place before mentioned, 
 which they had left well guarded ; but to their mortification, 
 as well as astonishment, when the animal came to the edge 
 of the precipice, which was fifty feet high, he plunged into 
 the sea without hesitation, and there being no boat on that 
 side of the island, he escaped. The party remained until 
 sun-set, and had good observations ; and Lieutenant Parry 
 reported, that the iceberg was four thousand one hundred 
 and sixty-nine yards long, three thousand eight hundred 
 and sixty-nine yards broad, and fifty-one feet high ; being 
 aground in sixty-one fathoms. Its appearance was much 
 like that of the back of the Isle of Wight, and the cliffs ex- 
 actly resembled the chalk cliffs to the west of Dover. 
 
 On the 25th of September, the slops which were supplied 
 by Government for winter clothing were served to the ships* 
 companies, orders being sent to Lieutenant Parry to that 
 effect. The whole of this day the weather was so foggy 
 that the land was completely obscured. 
 
 On the 30th of October they made the island of Fula, 
 and, passing between Fair Isle and Sumburg Head, ar- 
 rived at Shetland, anchoring in Brassa Sound, after anr 
 absence of exactly six months. The Lerwick packet being 
 about to sail for Leith, Captain Ross sent a short account 
 of their proceedings to the Secretary of the Admiralty, for 
 the information of their Lordships ; in which, after recom^ 
 
602 
 
 mending the officers and men of both ships, for their me- 
 ritorious conduct, lie concluded in the following words :— 
 *' Not an instance of punishment has taken place in this 
 ship, nor has there been an officer, or man, on the sick list ; 
 and it is with a feeling not to be expressed, that I conclude 
 this letter, by reporting that the service has been performed, 
 and that the expedition, which 1 had the honour to com- 
 mand, has returned, without the loss of a man. 
 
 I have, &c. J. Ross." 
 
 On the 7th of November they sailed from Brassa Sound 
 with a fair wind, which carried them off Flamborough 
 Head, where they met with a strong breeze of N.E. wind ; 
 and after beating for several days they anchored in Grimsby 
 Roads, on the 14th of November. The logs, journals, 
 charts, and other memoranda, being sealed, and collected 
 from all the officers of (he expedition. Captain Ross here 
 left the ship and departed for London, where he arrived on 
 the 16th, and delivered them with a full account of the 
 proceedini(jg to the Lords of the Admiralty. 
 
 He was directed by Lord Melville to signify their Lord- 
 ships approbation of the conduct of the officers and crews 
 of the two ships ; and to acquaint them, that it was probable 
 an expedition of a similar nature would be undertaken in 
 the ensuing spring ; and that those who were desirous of 
 volunteering their services, should have a preference over 
 all others, should be found employment during the winter, 
 granted a month's leave of absence, and kept in pay until 
 the ships were ready for receiving men ; upon which nearly 
 the whole volunteered, and the Isabella and Alexander 
 were paid off on the 17th of December. 
 
 An account of Capt. Rosss last Voyage will he found in the suc- 
 ceeding Pages, 
 
( e93 ) 
 
 THIRD VOYAGE 
 
 or 
 
 CAPTAIN PARRY 
 
 Before entering on a history of the third voyage of Cap- 
 tain Parry, it will be profitable to give an extract from a 
 recent publication. It says, the existence of a North- West 
 Passage, or of a navigable communication between the Atlantic 
 and Pacific Oceans round the northern coast of America, is a 
 question which has exercised the ingenuity of the learned for 
 the last three centuries ; and the return of our adventurous 
 countryman Captain Ross, from his renewed efforts to aid in 
 it« determination, has once again created a lively interest upon 
 the subject among all classes. Its object may be briefly ex- 
 plained thus : 
 
 The greater part of the land contained on the surface of 
 our globe, is collected into two great masses ; the one of 
 which is situated in its eastern hemisphere, and is called the 
 Old World ; the other in its western hemisphere, and termed 
 the New World. The former, which is composed of the 
 united continents of Europe, Asia, and Africa, presents one 
 unbroken mass of land, stretching from the Cape of Good 
 Hope in the south, to the Arctic Sea in the north. The New 
 World, or the continent of America, forms a similarly unin- 
 terrupted barrier, extending a nearly equal length, from the 
 Straits of Magelhaens in the South, to a point yet undeter- 
 saincd in the North. The Atlantic Ocean is interposed 
 
 4U 
 
694 1»ARRY''3 TUmH VOYAGE 
 
 between these two masses, on one side of the globe, and tlie 
 Pacific Ocean separates them on the opposite side. Previous 
 to the close of the fifteenth century, it was not known that any 
 communication existed between these oceans ; in other words, 
 the countries situated on the Atlantic, {including of course 
 the principal nations of Europe) had no maritime connexion 
 with those washed by the Pacific (of which the East Indies 
 forms a part). There are at present two practicable routes 
 by which such communication is niaiiitained. The one is, by 
 the southern extremity of the Old World, or the Cape of 
 Good Hope, the other, by the southern extremity of the New 
 World, through the Straits of Maf^elhaens, or round Cape 
 Horn. They may be termed respectively the South-East 
 Passage and the South-West Passage, from the Atlantic into 
 the Pacific. Eacli (if th^se passages, however, implies the 
 necessity of sailing to the sputhern end of the Atlantic, beibre 
 either the eastern or \ly^ western turning into the Pacific 
 can be reached ; and as the chief maritime nations of the 
 Wf^\d are placed mugii i^^ajer to its northern end, it has 
 occurred to them, thr^t if tbi^y y(^ve to sail to the northern 
 instead of the southern extremity, and then turn to the east 
 or to the west, they would reach the Pacific much sooner ; 
 in otUer \vords, that a North-East Passage (round the north- 
 ern coast of Europe and Asia) or a North-West Passage 
 (round the northern shores of America) would be a much 
 shorter rqute thai\ the existing South- East or South-W^st 
 Passage. 
 
 But obstacles exist to the accomplishment of either of 
 these nfOrthern passages, which do not exist in the southern 
 routeSf. The northern shores of both the Old a,nd the New 
 World are situated in much higher latitudes than their 
 sputh^'n limits^ apd are therefore subject to a much more 
 mtense degree of cold ; so that while the waters that bound 
 the letter ^T^ at all times open to the seamen, those which 
 eoipircle the formei;, ai;e, during the greater portion of the 
 year, frosieo injto a vast icy bari;ier, entirely obstructing all 
 iiftvigatton. Another circumstance also operates, tg the same 
 
TO The NoKTir pole. 635 
 
 effect : in accomplishing either of the southern passages, the 
 navigator has. merely to round a jutting promontory in a high 
 latitude ; but in attempting either of the northern routes, he 
 has to pass a long line of coast extending above 100° or ISO** 
 of longitude under the same frozen parallel. 
 
 The question of a North-East Passage has long since 
 ceased to exmcite uch interest. It is certain, indeed, that a 
 sea extends from Behring's Strait to the Spitzbergen Seas ; 
 but the passage has never yet been performed, and may be 
 fairly assumed to be impracticable. A North-West Passage 
 would be a much shorter route ; but a shorter than all has 
 been suggested, which is termed the North Polar Passage. 
 It consists in sailing through the Spitzbergen Seas direct into 
 the Polar Basin, or the region immediately surrounding the 
 North Pole, and emerging at Behring's Strait ; its track thus 
 forming, as it vv^ere, the diameter of the circle presented by 
 the northern shores of Europe and Asia on the one side, and 
 those of America on the other. We shall now give a brief 
 sketch of the various attempts that have been made to effect 
 the remaining tv^^o passages, the North-West and the Polar ; 
 remarking on the obstacles that have frustrated their accom- 
 plishment, and the desiderata yet remaining for that purpose. 
 
 The difficulties which impede the navigation of the Arctic 
 Seas, arise, as before observed, from the extreme cold to 
 which their high latitude exposes them. Owing to the 
 spherical form of the earth's surface, and the obliquity of its 
 axis, the sun is, for a considerable portion of the year, en- 
 tirely withdrawn from these regions. Throughout this long 
 and dreary night, an intense frost prevails. As early as the 
 month of August, snow begins to fall ; a rapid- formation of 
 ice ensues ; along the shores and bays, the fresh water, 
 poured from rivulets, or drained from the thawing of former 
 collections of snow, becomes quickly congealed ; the surface 
 of the sea is spread over with ice, and its waters are firmly 
 bound up into one solid mass. The gloomy darkness of im- 
 penetrable winter now reigns throughout ; occasionally, in« 
 deed, relieved or aggravated, by the riioon's feeble rays. 
 
Q&6 pAnnr's third voyag*: 
 
 At length the sun re-appears; but it is long before his faint 
 and languid beams impart much warmth to the dreary waste. 
 Gradually, however, their power increases ; the snow begins 
 to melt, the ice slowly dissolves, and the ocean is once again 
 set free. The massy sheet which its surface lately formed is 
 broken into a thousand fragments, of various size and thick- 
 ness ; these, impelled by the violence of winds and currents,, 
 are dispersed in all directions, sometimes meeting with fearful 
 shocks, and shivering each other into atoms. This disruption 
 of the ice generally happens about the month of June ; and 
 a few weeks are commonly sufficient to disperse the floating 
 fields. 
 
 The sea is at last open, for a short and dubious interval, to 
 the pursuits of the adventurous seaman ; but the navigation 
 is accomplished oiily with great difficulty to him, and at the 
 imminent hazard of his being crushed by these floating field* 
 of ice* Another obstacle, not less formidable, impedes his 
 progress ; namely, the icebergs, or insulated mountains of ice, 
 which float like lofty towers upon the ocean, threatening to 
 overwhelm with instant destruction the frail bark that sails be- 
 neath. These are formed by the congelation of the fresh 
 water that pours annually into the ocean, and are collected 
 along the indented shores and in the deep bays enclosed by 
 precipitous rocks. Every successive year adds to their size, 
 till at length, by the action of their own accumulated weight, 
 and undermining of the sea, the enormous blocks are broken 
 off, and precipitated into the ocean below. These mountains 
 of hard and perfect ice are probably the gradual production 
 of many years. Their substance is clear, compact, and solid ; 
 and *f>cir tint of a fine green, verging to blue. Its clearness 
 is generally interi-upted by numerous small air-bubbles ; but 
 large pieces may be occasionally obtained, possessing a degree 
 of purity and transparency, equal to that of the most beauti- 
 ful crystal. Captain Scoresby states that, witli a lump of ice, 
 of by no means regular convexity, used as a burning lens, he 
 has frequently burnt v^ood, fired gunpowder, melted lead, 
 and lit the sailors* pipes, to their great astonishment ; the ice 
 
to tttE KOtlTH POLE. €97 
 
 Itself remaining, in the mean while, quite firm and pellucid. 
 The salt-water ice, on the other hand, is porous, incompact, and 
 only imperfectly transparent ; and is annually formed and de- 
 stroyed. The appearance of a numerous collection of icebergs is 
 described as interesting in the extreme. Along the western 
 coast of Greenland, they form an immense rampart, which pre- 
 sents to the mariner a sublime spectacle, resembling at a distance 
 whole groups of churches, mantling castles, or fleets under 
 full sail. 
 
 The first navigator whose efforts appear to have inspired a 
 reasonable hope of finding the North-West Passage, was 
 Gaspar de Cortereal, a Portuguese, who, in the year 1500, 
 discovered the country called Labrador. Coasting thence to 
 the northward, and reaching the wide opening of Hudson's 
 Strait, he concluded that he had found the so-much-desired 
 passage into the Pacific, which he named the Strait of 
 Anian. He returned to Portugal and in the following year 
 embarked on a second expedition, with two vessels ; but 
 having been separated from his consort by bad weather, he 
 was never heard of more. His brother, Michael de Cortereal, 
 who sailed in quest of him, shared a similar fate ; and it was 
 only the positive order of the king, Manuel, which restrained 
 a third brother from continuing the fruitless search. The two 
 Cabotas had previously engaged in the same enterprise ; but 
 their efforts had terminated only in the discovery of New- 
 foundland. 
 
 Cortereal was succeeded by Aubert and Jacques Cartier 
 on the part of France, and by Estevan Gomez on that of 
 Spain ; but all the endeavours of these navigators to discover 
 any opening in the northern coast, that held out the least hope 
 of a passage in that quarter, were in vain. 
 
 About the same period, the idea of a voyage to the North 
 Pole was first suggested by Master Robert Thorne, of Bristol, 
 who is said to have exhorted King Henry VIII. "with very 
 weighty and substantial reasons, to set forth a discoverie, even 
 to the North Pole." Among other advantages that were held 
 out as the probable results, was the discovery of a shorter 
 
69S I'ARUy's third voyack 
 
 passage to China and the East Indies : but, although an ex- 
 pedition was sent out for this purpose, the proceedings con- 
 nected with it are scarcely at all known. The voyage of 
 " The Trinitie and the Minion," to the north-west, followed 
 in 1536, but without any further success : and between the 
 years 1553 and 1556, Sir Hugh Willoughby, Kichard 
 Chancelor, and Stephen Burough, performed three several 
 voyages in quest of a North- East Passage, but could not, on 
 account of immense shoals of ice, proceed further than the 
 Strait of Weigats. 
 
 Notwithstanding the failure of so many attempts, the belief 
 that America was to be passed somewhere on the north-west 
 still remained unimpaired among the merchants and naviga- 
 tors of England, and was supported by the writings of the 
 most learned men in the nation. Under the auspices of 
 Queen Elizabeth, Martin Frobisher made three successive 
 voyages, in 1576, 1577, and 1578 ; but his progress was ex- 
 ceedingly small. Yet their promoters were still satisfied ** of 
 the likelihood of the discovery of the North-West Passage," 
 and they accordingly resolved on a new expedition. The 
 conduct of this was intrusted to the celebrated John Davis, 
 who in 1585, succeeded in passing up the Strait, which now 
 bears his name, as high as latitude 66" 40', and discovered the 
 inlet called Cumberland Strait. He performed two subsequent 
 voyages in the succeeding two years, in the second of which 
 he stood sixty leagues up Cumberland Strait. 
 
 No further attempt was made, until the commencement of 
 the seventeenth century, vv^hen George Weymouth departed 
 on an expedition, fitted out at the joint expense of the Mus- 
 covy and Turkey Companies ; but his vo) yge was a complete 
 failure. 
 
 In the years 1605, 1606, and 1607, tlie King of I)enmark 
 despatched Henry Hall three several times, but all his attempts 
 were fruitless. 
 
 As neither the passage by the north-east, nor that by the 
 north-west, seemed now to hold out much hope of success, it 
 was resolved again to try the route across the North Pole. 
 
TO THK NORTH FOLE. 699 
 
 Accordingly, Henry Hudson, an experienced and intrepid sea- 
 man, was selected for this enterprise ; and in the year 1607, 
 he set sail from England, and stood directly for the east coast 
 of Greenland, which he reached in latitude 73% naming the 
 point Hold with Hope; thence continuing northward he advan- 
 ced to about latitude 81% when he was compelled by the ice to 
 return. In the following year he was employed, without 
 success, in search of a North- East Passage ; and in 1609, by 
 the Dutch, in an expedition of very dubious object. In l6lO 
 he embarked on his last and fatal voyage once again to tb.e 
 north-westward. Keeping to the westward, he passed the 
 strait which now bears his name ; but soon afterwards, hia 
 crew mutinied, and, turning him adrift in a boat, abandoned 
 him to a miserable fate. 
 
 Sir Thomas Button followed next, in 1G12, and, passing 
 through Hudson's Strait, reached the main land of America 
 in latitude 60" 40'. Having wintered, he advanced as high as 
 latitude 65", on the east coast of Southampton Island, and 
 returned to England in the summer of 1613. 
 
 Robert Bylot, in l6l5, proceeded about half a degree 
 further north, and, in the following year, embarked with 
 j^affin* to examine the sea lying north and west of Davis' 
 Strait. In this voyage, one of the most remarkable and 
 in^iportant ever accomplished in the same quarter of the globe, 
 they traced the west coast of Greenland up Davis** Strait, a«; 
 f^r as the northern extremity of the sea now named after 
 BaflRn ; then, turning to the westward, they followed it round, 
 and (Jescended the opposite shores to the south, passing, in 
 their way, several large openings, which they neglected to 
 examine, apparently assuming them to be merely Sounds. 
 
 Luke Fox followed in 1631, and explored Hudson's Bay ; 
 and, in 1668, Zachariah Gillam was sent out by Prince 
 Rupert, to examine the same quarter ; and the results of this 
 vt)yage appear to have led to the formation of the Hudson's 
 Bay Company. 
 
 No further attempts were made on the western coast of 
 America, until the unfortunate voyage of Knight, Barlow, 
 
700 parky's third voyage 
 
 and Vaughan, in 1719, on the part of the Hudson's Bay 
 Company, in search of "the Strait of Anian, in order ta 
 discover gold, &c., to the northward ;'' when, of two ships 
 that were sent out, neither returned. 
 
 John Scroggs was sent in search of them in 1722, but he 
 returned without accomplishing any thing of the smallest 
 note. 
 
 In 1737, a similarly unsuccessful attempt was made by the 
 Hudson's Bay Company, at the suggestion of Mr. Arthur 
 Dobbs, who afterwards prevailed on the Government to ap- 
 propriate two vessels for this service, under the orders of 
 Captain Middleton, who left England in 1741, and wintered 
 in Churchill River ; and, in the summer of 1742, proceeded 
 up Sir Thomas Roe's Welcome to Wager River, and sailed 
 round what is called Repulse Bay. The offer by Parliament 
 in 1743, of a reward of 20,000/. to whomsoever of His 
 Majesty's subjects should discover a North- West Passage 
 through Hudson's Strait, seemed to evince that the public 
 opinion still remained decidedly in favour of its practicability. 
 A subscription of 10,000/. was entered into, and two ships 
 were sent out, in 1746, under Captains Moor and Smith, who 
 merely, however, ascertained that Wager River was a deep 
 bay or inlet. 
 
 On the failure of this expedition, the public ardour seems 
 to have been somewhat damped ; and, for nearly thirty years, 
 no attempt at northern discovery by sea was made, either by 
 the government or by private individuals ; but, in 1772, 
 Samuel Hearne accomplished a land-journey from the Prince 
 of WaWs Fort, Hudson's Bay, to the termination of the 
 Copper-mine River, in the Arctic Sea. 
 
 About the same time, the question of the practicability of 
 approaching the North Pole was revived by the Hon. Daines 
 Harrington, who presented to the Royal Society a series of 
 papers on the subject, which induced the President and 
 Council to apply to the Earl of Sandwich, then First Lord of 
 the Admiralty, to obtain His Majesty's sanction for the fitting 
 out an expedition for that service. The proposal meeting 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. TQl ■ 
 
 with the countenance of his Majesty, two ships, the Race-horse 
 and the Carcase bombs, were equipped accordingly ; the 
 former under the orders of Captain Constantine John Phipps, 
 (afterwards Lord Mulgrave,) who was appointed commander 
 of the expedition ; the latter under those of Captain Skeffing- 
 ton Lutwidge, They sailed from the Nore on the 10th of 
 June, 1773, and on the evening of the 27th, reached the 
 latitude of the south part of Spitzbergen. On the 5th of 
 July, they fell in with the main body of the ice, which stretches 
 across from Spitzbergen to Greenland, and commenced look- 
 ing for an opening by which they might pass through, as 
 related in the narrative given in this work. The ice was 
 examined, from east to west, for above ten degrees, but with- 
 out success ; and Captain Phipps novir " began to conceive 
 that the ice was one compact impenetrable body."" 
 
 The ill success of this attempt did not cause the hopes of 
 discovering a northern navigable communication between the 
 Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, to be abandoned. The Act of 
 Parliament, granting the reward of 20,000/., was altered so as 
 to include his Majesty's ships, and to extend the condition of 
 a passage through Hudson's Bay, to that of ever}' northern 
 passage ; and a sum of 5000/. was also awarded to any ship 
 that approached within one degree of the North Pole. 
 
 In 1776, Lieutenant Pickersgill was sent in the brig Lion 
 to examine the western shores of Baffin's Bay ; but the result 
 was unsuccessful. 
 
 In the following year the same vessel was despatched, under 
 Lieutenant Walter Young, on a similar service, and also to 
 examine the practicability of a passage into the Pacific, in the 
 hope of meeting Captain Cook, who was expected to be about 
 that time engaged in attempting to pass from the Pacific into 
 the Atlantic ; but he returned without having accomphshed 
 any thing. 
 
 'I'he narrative of Hearne, whose journey down the Copper- 
 mine River to the Arctic Sea, we have already mentioned, 
 was long regarded with mistrust ; but a similar expedition, 
 undertaken by Alexander Mackenzie, in 1789, in which he 
 
 4X 
 
702 parry's THIRD VOYAGE 
 
 descended the river that now bears his name, and reached the 
 Arctic Ocean, considerably to the westward of the point at 
 which Hearne arrived, served to ^ive a stronger appearancp 
 of truth to this latter traveller's statements, and, by proving 
 the existence of a sea to the north oi' America, to increase the 
 probability of a North-West Passage. But the long and 
 disastrous war which soon afterwards <;onvul8ed the whole of 
 Europe, directed the skill and resources of the nation into 
 another channel, and put an effectual stop to the progress of, 
 northern discovery. 
 
 No sooner, however, had peace been restored, than the 
 attention of the British Government was again drawn to this 
 long-agitated question. I'he possibility of effecting a North- 
 West Passage, became once more a fnjitful source of debate, 
 and was discussed with a keenness, and a regard to the results 
 of former experience, in estimating the prolmbility of its 
 success, that had rarely been evinced before. The reasons 
 assigned in its favour were many and cogent. A perpetual 
 current setting down from the northward, along the eastern 
 shores of America and the western coast of Greenland, was 
 said to afford a strong presumption, that between Davis' 
 Strait and the Great Polar Basin, there was an uninterrupted 
 communication. The vast quantities of drift-wood floa'ed 
 down by this current, whose appearance frequently indicated 
 that it had recently been in a growing state, and in a warmer 
 climate, and whose substance denoted the produce of milder 
 latitudes, was adduced as another powerful ar'gument to the 
 same effect. A third, on which equal stress was laid, was 
 derived from the fact, well known to those engaged in the 
 Greenland fisheries, that whales, which had been harpooned 
 in the Spitzbergen Seas and Davis' Strait, have been caught 
 in the Pacific Ocean, on the western coast of America. 'J'he 
 general trending of the northern coast of that continent, as in- 
 dicated by the three points then known, Icy Cape, and the mouths 
 of the Mackenzie and Copper-mine Rivers ; the testimony of 
 the native Indian maps ; and the occurrence, in Greenland, 
 of a species of heath, which had never been found in America ; 
 
were all regarded as additional grounds of the same sup- 
 position. 
 
 The disappearance of a large quantity of ice from the 
 Arctic Regions, and the removal of the icy barrier which was 
 supposed to have, for four centuries, blocked up the eastern 
 coast of Greenland, seemed to present an opportunity peculi- 
 arly favourable for the resuniption of those labours which had 
 been interrupted only by the political disturbances of Europe, 
 It was resolved, therefore, that two distinct expeditions should 
 be fitted out and despatched ; the one to proceed up Davis' 
 Strait, for a considerable distance to the northward, and then, 
 rounding the north-east point of the continent of America, to 
 hold a westerly course, with the view of reaching Behring's 
 Strait ; the other, to proceed in a direction as due north as 
 might be found practicable, through the Spitzbergen Seas, 
 and, in the event of finding an open Polar Basin, to pass across 
 the Pole, and make for Behring's Strait, also. 
 
 Accordingly, four merchant-ships were hired and commis- 
 sioned for this purpose; two of which, the Isabella, of 385 tons, 
 commanded l)y Captain John Ross, and the Jle^ander, of 
 2521 tonsj by Lieutenant William Edward Parry, were 
 destined for the North-west Passage ; and the remaining two, 
 the Dorothea, of 382 tons, commanded by Captain David 
 Buchan, and the Trent, of 249i tons, by Lieutenant John 
 Franklin, for the Polar route. 
 
 These vessels, having been most completely repaired and 
 strengthened, so as to enable them the better to resist the pres- 
 sure of the ice, and having been fitted with stores of every 
 description for two years, dropped down the river on the 18th 
 of April, 1818, and started for their respective destinations, 
 with the most sanguine anticipations of success on the part of 
 all on board, and with a confident expectation of obtaining 
 the reward which the munificence of Parliament held out to 
 them, in the event of a fortunate issue. Early however, in 
 the month of October, the expedition under Captain Buchan 
 had returned unsuccessful. The ships under his command 
 had proceeded to about latitude 80" 30', when they were over* 
 
704 paruy's third votage 
 
 taken by a tremendous gale, which drove them direct into tl f 
 ice, and so disabled the Dorothea^ as to render it necessary for 
 her to be sent liome ; and, as she was deemed unsafe to pro- 
 ceed alone, the Trent was obliged to accompany her. The 
 issue of the expedition under Captain Ross has been already 
 described. 
 
 Having sufficiently proved the futility of attempting a north- 
 west passage by the way of Hudson's Bay, the most likely 
 rout of succeeding appeared to Captain Parry to be through 
 Prince Regent's Inlet, which running to the south-west, is 
 obliquely opened by the current round the North of America ; 
 accordingly a third expedition was fitted out, consisting of the 
 same ships, and nearly the same officers and men, and was in- 
 trusted to Captain Parry. 
 
 In order to co-operate with this expedition, Captain Lyon 
 was dispatched' from England in 1824, as staged in the pre- 
 ceding part of this work, with the Griper ; directed to 
 winter in Repulse Bay, and in the spring of 1825 to proceed 
 with a small party to the northern shores of America ; but 
 through bad weather he was compelled to return. 
 
 Captain Henry Perkins Hoppner was appointed to the 
 Fury, and the William Harris transport, Leiutenant Prit- 
 chard was to accompany them, with a portion of stores to be 
 delivered over to the above ships on arriving at Davis's Strait. 
 
 In most respects the equipments were similar to the last. 
 Sylvester's warming stove was placed in the very bottom of the 
 ships holds, and the flues which passed through the cabins of 
 the Officers ran nearly close to the ships sides. 
 
 In preparing the equipment the ships were frequently visit- 
 ed by Sir Thomas Byam Martin, the Comptroller of the navy, 
 by Lord Melville, and other Lords of the Admiralty. 
 
 Early in May they were ready to proceed, and the follow- 
 ing is a statement of the Officers &c, who sailed on board the 
 two ships* 
 
TO THE NORTH POLK. T05 
 
 On board the Hecla. 
 
 Capt. William Edward Parry, • • • • Commander. 
 John Land Wynn, Joseph Sherer,! Lieutenants. 
 
 Henry Foster, • • • • J 
 
 Samuel Neill M. D, Surgeon. 
 
 William Harvey Hooper, Purser. 
 
 William Rowland, Assistant Surgeon. 
 
 John Brunton, Francis R. M."] 
 
 Crozier, Charles Richards, s. Midshipmen, 
 
 Horatio Nelson Head, ... .J 
 
 James Harrison, • Clerk. 
 
 John Brothers, Gunner. 
 
 William Smith, Boatswain. 
 
 George Fiddis, Carpenter. 
 
 John Allison, Greenland Master. 
 
 George Champion, Ditto Mate. 
 
 Other Officers and seamen 45. 
 
 On hoard the Fury, 
 
 Capt. Henry Perkins Hoppner, • • Commander. 
 Horatio Thomas Austin, James] _ . 
 
 Clark Ross, | ^-eutenants. 
 
 Allan M* Laren, Surgeon. 
 
 James Halse, Purser, 
 
 Thomas Bell, Assistant Surgeon. 
 
 Berkley Westropp, Charles Crump"! t.,. , , . 
 
 Waller, Edward Bird | M.dsh.pmen. 
 
 William Mogg, Clerk. 
 
 James More, Gunner. 
 
 William Wentworth, • • • . Boatswain. 
 
 . Charles Purfer, Carpenter. 
 
 George Crawford, Greenland Master. 
 
 Thomas Donaldson, Ditto Mate. 
 
 Other Officers and seamen 45. 
 
 The following instructions were issued to Captain Parry 
 by the Lords of the Admiralty. 
 
706 rARUY^S THIED VOYAGE 
 
 By the Commissiojiers for executitig t?ie office of Lord tiigh 
 Admiral of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ire- 
 land Sfc. 
 
 Lord Viscount Melville having communicated to the King 
 
 the proceedings of the late expedition into the Arctic Seas, 
 and His Majesty having been graciously pleased to express 
 his commands, that another expedition should be fitted out, 
 for the purpose of pursuing the attempt to discover a passage 
 by sea between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans^ and ascertain- 
 ing the geography of the Nortliern boundaries of the American 
 continent. 
 
 We have thought proper to appoint you to the command 
 of the expedition, and you are hereby required and directed to 
 put to sea in His Majesty's ship Hecla, under your command, 
 with His Majesty's ship Fury, whose Commander has been 
 placed under your orders, and taking with you the William 
 Harris transport, which the Navy Board has been directed 
 to place at your disposal, for the purpose of carrying a pro- 
 portion of your provisions and stores across the Atlantic ; you 
 are to proceed, as quickly as may be consistent with a due 
 care not to part company up Davis's Strait, and having arri* 
 ved at the latitude in which you may think it advisable to 
 cross over the western side of that Strait, you will take the 
 first favourable opportunity of clearing the transport of the 
 stores and provisions with which she is charged, for the use of 
 the expedition, and having so done, you arc to send the trans- 
 port back to England, so as to prevent her incurring any 
 danger from the ice, reporting 1/y that opportunity, your pro* 
 ceedings to our Secretary, for our information, and then making 
 the best of your way with his Majesty's Ships in the prosecu- 
 tion of your orders. 
 
 The experience of your former voyages, seems to prove 
 that the two channels which afford the most reasonable pros- 
 pect of a passage for the ships into the sea, which bounds the 
 north coast of America, are that round Cockburn's Island, 
 near which your last voyage terminated, and Prince Regent's 
 Inlet, whicli you discovered in your former. 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 707 
 
 Several considerations, but particularly the obstacles which 
 you found in Prince Regent'^s Inlet in 1819, might have indu- 
 ced us to give the preference to the attempt to make a passage 
 round Cockburn's Island, but the strong opinion which you 
 have conveyed to us in favour of the attempt through Prince 
 Kcgenfs Inlet, the confident hope which you express that the 
 ice which, at tlie period of the year in which you visited the 
 inlet, obstructed your passage, was likely to be removed by 
 circumstances of season and weather, within the navigable 
 part of the year, and the confidence which we are justified in 
 placing in your judgment and experience, determine us to 
 authorize and direct you to pursue the course which you con- 
 sider the most promising, namely, through Prince Regent's 
 Inlet. You will therefore, after you have dispatched the 
 transport home, make the best of your way to Lancaster 
 Sound, and proceeding through Barrow's Strait, endeavour to 
 make through Prince Regent's Inlet, your passage into the 
 Sea which bounds the Continent, and thence westward to the 
 Pacific. 
 
 Should you succeed, in this first attempt of passing through 
 Prince Regent's Inlet, it is probable, from what has been 
 already discovered of these parts, that you may find different 
 courses opening to you; the decision as to that most likely 
 to conduce to the objects of the expedition, must be referred 
 to your own judgment, on a view of the existing circum- 
 stances of your own former proceedings, of the discoveries of 
 Captain Franklin (with a copy of whose account of his pro- 
 ceedings you are furnished) at the mouth and to the eastward, 
 of the Copper-mine River. 
 
 If you should be so successful as to find a practicable pas- 
 sage down to the coast of America, you arc to make the best 
 of your way in accomplishing the main object of the expedi- 
 tion, without stopping to examine that coast, or for any other 
 object not of imperious importance ; but whenever the ships, 
 may be checked in their progress by the ice, or unavoidable 
 circumstances, you will take every opportunity of examining 
 the coasts and islands in the neighbourhood, and of making 
 
708 
 
 all viseful observations relating to them. His Majesty *s govern- 
 ment having appointed two land expeditions for exploring the 
 North coast of America, the one under Captain Lyon, to pro- 
 ceed from Repulse Bay across the Isthmus towards Atkolee, 
 and thence along the coast towards Copper-mine River, the 
 other, under Captain Franklin, to proceed from Mackenzie's 
 River, to the Icy Cape, it would be desirable, if you should 
 reach any part of the coast, that you should mark your pro- 
 gress by erecting flag-staffs on a few of the most distinguish- 
 able points, which you may successively visit, and you are 
 to bury at the foot of the flag-staffs such proportion and kind 
 of provisions as you may think advisable. And as it is possi- 
 ble that the flag staff may be removed by natives, you should 
 surround it by a pile of stones, conspicuous from some point 
 of the shore, which may guide the Land expeditions to the 
 depots there left. 
 
 It is unnecessary to give you any detailed directions as to the 
 concert of signals with them, as you have informed us that you 
 have made arrangements of that nature with Captains Lyon 
 and Franklin, respectively ; and if you should meet with 
 these offiicers, or their parties, and that they should be desir- 
 ous of coming on board, you are to receive them, bearing 
 them as Supernumeraries. 
 
 Should you happily reach the Pacific, you are to proceed to 
 Kamschatska, for the purpose of delivering to the Russian 
 Governor duplicates of the journals and other documents 
 which the passage may have supplied, with a request that 
 they may be forwarded over land to St. Petersburgh, to be 
 conveyed from thence to London. From Kamschatska, you 
 will proceed to the Sandwich Islands, or Canton, or such 
 other place as you may think proper, to refit the ships and re- 
 fresh the crews ; and if, during your stay ^f. such place, a 
 safe opportunity should occur of sending papers to England, 
 you should send duplicates by such conveyance. And after 
 having refitted and refreshed, you are to lose no time in re- 
 turning to England, by such route as you may deem most 
 convenient. 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 709 
 
 It may happen that your progress along the North coast 
 of the American continent may be slow as to render it desir- 
 able that, if you should not be able to accomplish your pas- 
 sage into the Pacific earlier than the autumn of 1827, you 
 should be assured of finding a depot of provisions at that 
 period in the most advanced situation to which they can safely 
 be conveyed. In the event, then, of our not receiving from 
 you such intelligence as may render the measure unnecessary, 
 we shall, about the close of the year 1826, direct the Com- 
 mander in chief on the south American station, to dispatch 
 a vessel with a supply of provisions and stores, so as to be 
 at Behring''s Straits about August or September 1827. The 
 Commander of this vessel will be directed to make the best 
 of his way round Cape Prince of Wales, where he may 
 expect, as we are informed, to find an inlet in latitude 68'* 
 SCy, in which Captain Kotzebue is stated to have found 
 anchorage afew years since. He will be directed to lie in that 
 anchorage, or in the nearest good anchorage he may find in that 
 latitude, and he will be ordered to erect, in the most promi- 
 nent and visible situation, a flag-staff for your direction. As 
 it is possible that you may touch at the Sandwich Islands, 
 this Officer will be directed to call at Owhyhee, in order 
 that, if you should have passed to the southward, he may 
 not be put to the inconvenience of going on to Cape Prince of 
 Wales : and this affords a reason of preference for your 
 touching at Owhyhee. And you on your part, if you should 
 first reach the neighbourhood of Captain Kotzebue's anchor- 
 age, should erect a flag-staff, or a pile of stones, in some 
 conspicuous place, and bury a bottle with a paper which may 
 acquaint the said officer of your having passed. This vessel 
 will be directed to remain in that neighbourhood as long in 
 the autumn of J827 as the season will admit ; and when she 
 is obliged to leave it, her commander will bury, under a pile 
 of stones, in some conspicuous place, directions where you 
 may find a depot of provisions, of such species as he may 
 judge likely to be most useful to you, and that he may be 
 able to spare. 
 
 4y 
 
710 parry's third voyage 
 
 Whenever the season shall be so far advanced as to make 
 it unsafe to navigate the ships, on account of the long nights 
 having set in, and the sea being impassable on account of ice, 
 you are, if you should have so far advanced as to prevent your 
 return to England, to use your best endeavours to discover a 
 sheltered and safe anchorage, where the ships may be placed 
 for the winter, taking such measures for the health and com- 
 fort of the people under your command, as the materials with 
 which you are supplied for housing the ships, or hutting the 
 men on shore, may enable you to do. And when y^u find it 
 expedient to resort to this measure, if you should meet with 
 any inhabitants, either Esquimaux or Indians, near the place 
 where you winter, you are to endeavour, by every means in 
 your power, to cultivate a friendship with them, by making 
 them presents of such articles as you may be supplied with 
 and which may be useful or agreeable to them ; you will 
 however take care not to suffer yourself to be surprised by 
 any attack from them, but use every precaution, and be con- 
 stantly on your guard against any hostility. You will en- 
 deavour to prevail on them by such reward, and to be paid 
 in such manner as you may think best to answer the purpose, 
 in the event of your making progress to the westward, to 
 carry to any of the settlements of the Hudson's Bay Company 
 an account of your situation and proceedings ; with an urgent 
 request that it may be forwarded to England with the utmost 
 possible dispatch. If you should, on your arrival at Prince 
 Regent's Inlet, find the passage impracticable, you are at 
 liberty either to seek any other opening in that quarter, or t® 
 wait in the Inlet for any change in the state of the ice which 
 you may have reason to expect ; but if your expectations in this 
 particular should be disappointed, and if you find yourself un- 
 able, during the favourable season, to effect a passage to the 
 southward and westward, it is evident that nothing can be gain- 
 ed by wintering in a situation which may in any year be reached 
 from England before the passage can be practicable ; and we 
 therefore order and direct that you do not, under such circum- 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. Tl> 
 
 stances attempt to winter out, but that if you find your- 
 bclf prevented from proceeding, with some prospect of ulti- 
 mate success further in that direction than has been already 
 explored, you are to take care to ensure your return to Eng- 
 land at the end of the present season. We deem it right to 
 caution you against suffering the two vessels placed under 
 your orders to separate, except in the event of accident or 
 imavoidable necessity ; and we desire you to keep up the 
 most unreserved communications with the Commander of the 
 Fury, placing in him every proper confidence, and acquainting 
 him with your views and intentions, from time to time, in the 
 execution of them, that the service may have the full benefit of 
 your united efforts, and that, in the event of unavoidable separa- 
 tion, or of any .accident to yourself, Captain Hoppner may 
 have the advantage of knowing up to the latest period, all 
 your ideas and intentions relative to a satisfactory completion 
 of the undertaking. 
 
 We also recommend that as frequent an exchange take 
 place as conveniently may be, of the observations made in the 
 two ships, that any discovery made by the one, be, as quickly 
 as possible, communicated for the advantage and guidance of 
 the other, and to increase the chance of the observations of 
 both being preserved. We have caused a great variety of 
 valuable instruments to be put on board of the ships under 
 your orders, of which you will be furnished with a list, and 
 for the return of which you will be held responsible ; and we 
 have appointed Lieutenant Foster, as assistant surveyor, an 
 officer will skilled in Astronomy, Mathematics, and various 
 branches of knowledge, to assist you in making such observa- 
 tions and experiments as may tend to the improvement of 
 geography and navigation, and the advancement of science in 
 general. We deem it unnecessary to specify these objects, a 
 detail of which you have already been furnished with, in our 
 instructions for vour guidance in your late Expeditions, and 
 to which we refa^ you ; not doubting from the zeal and ability 
 with which yoii ^ave conducted the former Expeditions, 
 
712 parry's third voyage 
 
 that you will on this be equally diligent in collecting informa- 
 tion yourself ; and you will impress on the minds of Captain 
 Hoppner and all the olTicers under your command, the impor- 
 tance and necessity of eiach respectively using his best exertions 
 to promote the several scientific objects of the Expedition. 
 
 From Captain Hoppner we have every reason to expect 
 drawings of the landj of natives, and their various implements, 
 and of objects of Natural History, in which he will be assisted 
 by Mr. Head, who has received an appointment as Admiralty 
 Midshipman, principally with this view. You are to di- 
 rect Lieutenant Poster to be particularly careful to keep 
 an accurate register of all the observations that sliall be made 
 in the same form, and according to the same arrangement, 
 that were followed by Captain Sabine aod Mr. Fisher, on 
 the late voyages, and you are to place in the charge of Lieu- 
 tenant Foster the several chranometers, with which you have been 
 supplied for the Hecla. You are to avail yourself of every op- 
 portunity of collecting and preserving specimens of such objects 
 of Natural History as may be new, rare, or interesting ; and 
 you are to instruct Captain Hoppner, and all the other 
 officers, to use their best diligence in increasing the collections 
 in each ship ; the whole of which must be understood to be- 
 long to the public. The knowledge which Doctor Nevill, 
 surgeon of the Hecla, has been represented to us to possess 
 in this department of science^ will be of material service to you 
 in arranging the collections of, and making notes upon, the 
 various objects of Natural History : In the event of any ir- 
 reparable accident happening to either of the two ships, you 
 are to cause the officers and crew of the disabled ship to be 
 removed into the other^ land with her singly to proceed in 
 prosecution of the voyage, or return to England, according as 
 circumstances shall appear to require ; understanding that 
 the officers and crews of both ships, are hereby authorized and 
 requested to continue to perform their duties, according to 
 their respective ranks and stations^ on board either ship to 
 which they may be so removed. Should unfortunately your 
 
TO THE NOllTH PULE. 713 
 
 own ship be the one disabled, you are, in that case, to take 
 the command of the Fury, and, in the event of any fatal 
 accident happening to yourself, Captain Hoppner is hereby 
 authorized to take the command of the Expedition, either on 
 board the Hecia or Fury, as be may prefer, placing the officer 
 who may then be next in seniority to him, in command of the 
 second ship ; also in the event of your own inability, by sick- 
 ness or otherwise, at any peiiod of this service, to continue to 
 carry these instructions into execution, you are to transfer 
 them to Captain Hoppner, or to the surviving officer then next 
 in command to you, who is hereoy required to execute them in 
 the best manner he can, for the attainment of the several 
 objects in view. 
 
 In the event of England becoming involved in hostilities 
 with any power during your absence, you are nevertheless 
 clearly to understand that you are not on any account to 
 commit any hostile act whatsoever ; the Expedition under 
 your orders, being only intended for the purposes of discovery 
 and science, and it being the practice of all civilized nations 
 lo consider vessels so employed as excluded from the opera- 
 tions of war ; and confiding in this general feeling, we should 
 expect that you would receive every assistance from the ships 
 or subjects of any foreign power, which you may fall in with ; 
 but special applications to that effect have been made to the 
 respective Governments. 
 
 You are, whilst executing the service pointed out in these 
 instructions, to take every opportunity that may offer of ac- 
 quainting our Secretary, for our information, with your 
 progress: and on your arrival in England, you are immedi- 
 ately to repair to this office, in order to lay before us a full 
 account of your proceedmgs in the whole course of your 
 voyage ; taking care before you leave the ship, to demand from 
 the officers, petty officers, and all other persons on board, the logs 
 and journals they may have kept, together with any drawings or 
 charts they may have made, which are all to be sealed up ; 
 and you will issue similar directions to Captain Hoppner, and 
 
714) pakry's third voyage 
 
 his officers, &c. The said logs, journals, and other documents, 
 to be hereafter disposed of as we may think proper. 
 
 Given under our hands the 12th of May, 18.^4. 
 (Signed) Melville, 
 
 Wm. Johnstone Hon , 
 
 G. COCKBURN 
 
 C. Clerk, 
 W. R. K. Douglass. 
 Bi/ Command of their Lordships y 
 
 (Signed) J. W. Choker. 
 
 To William Edward Parry Esq. Captain 
 of His Majesty's Ship the Hecla. 
 
 ADDITIONAL INSTRUCTIONS. 
 
 Admiralty Office, I9,th May, 18 '2 4. 
 
 Sir, 
 
 In reference to that part of your general orders which 
 relates to the ship intended to be sent, in the autumn of 1827, 
 to meet you, I am commanded by my Lords Commissioners 
 of the Admiralty to communicate to you the following addi- 
 tional information : 
 
 It is thought advisable, with a view of assisting the objects 
 of Captain Franklin's Expedition, that the vessel intended to 
 meet you in 1827 should endeavour to meet him in 1826*. 
 Her commander will, therefore, be directed to reach those 
 latitudes in the summer of 1826, to make such discoveries and 
 observations as may open themselves to him, and to look out 
 for Captain Franklin, or even for you, if you should be so 
 fortunate as to accomplish the passage in that year. 
 
 He will remain in that neighbourhood as late as the season 
 will admit, and will then repair to the Sandwich Islands, or to 
 the neaiest place where he may be able to replenish his pro- 
 visions ; when he will, as early as possible m the year 1827 
 (if you should not have already met him) proceed to act in the 
 manner detailed in your instructions : he will mark his pro- 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 715 
 
 ceedings in 1826 by the erection of flag-staffs, or piles of 
 stones, and with notices where a depot of provisions may be 
 found which h^ will leave on his departure that year, as well 
 as in 1827. 
 
 I am, Sir, 
 
 Your very obedient Servant, 
 
 J. W. Croker. 
 
 The Hecla and Fury having completed their lading, sailed 
 down the river from Deptford on the 8th of May 1824, in 
 company with the William Harris transport, and received 
 their powder and stores at Northfleet ; where they employed 
 two days in fixing Mr. Barlow's plate for correcting the devia- 
 tion of the compass. They were prevented by easterly winds 
 from getting to the Nore till the sixteenth. During their stay 
 at Northfleet they were visited by Viscount Melville and the 
 other Lords of the Admiralty, who were much pleased with 
 their general equipment. 
 
 On the 18th Commissioner Cunningham went on board to 
 pay the ships' companies their arrears, also three months in 
 advance, and at three o'clock on the following morning they 
 »et sail. 
 
 They passed through the Pentland Frith on the same day 
 that they had taken their departure from the Orkneys three 
 years before. 
 
 During the passage across the Atlantic, and afterwards on 
 their way up Davis's Strait, they threw overboard daily a cop- 
 per cylinder, containing the usual papers, giving an account 
 of their situation. On Saturday the 12th of June, they ap- 
 proached Cape Farewell, and met large flocks of sheerwaters ; 
 from the 12th to the 16th, they passed several pieces of drift 
 wood, from four to sixteen feet in length, that had been a 
 good while in the water. On the 16th the first ice-berg was 
 seen, being in latitude 601° longitude 55'' and after that time 
 those bodies of ice made their appearance daily. 
 
 Captain Parry determined on the 26th of June, as the 
 quickest and most secure mode cf clearing the transport 
 
716 parry's third voyagk 
 
 which had accompanied them, to anchor at the Whalt'-fish 
 islands. Fresh gales and thick weather prevented, however, 
 their doing it for some time, when at kngth they anchored, 
 mooring the ships by hawsers to the rocks. In the mean time 
 the observatory and instruments were landed on a small island, 
 where Lieut. Forster and Captain Parry made their observa- 
 tions during their stay. 
 
 They received great attentions from the Danish officers at 
 this place as well as at I.ievely, in the Island Dieke, to 
 which Captain Parry went in a boat on the 30th, where lie 
 saw Mr. West and other resident officers, who kindly shewed 
 the charts they were constructing. The harbour of Lievely 
 is excellent for small vessels, having a good depth of water ; 
 the settlement is principally situated on the south shore of 
 the harbour. There are but six or seven Danes, besides the 
 officers belonging to the establishment. 
 
 Early on the morning of the 3rd of July, the whole of the 
 stores were removed from the William Harris transport, and 
 stowed on board the Hecla, and Fury. She then weighed 
 and was towed out to sea ; Lieut. Pritchard her Commander, 
 having received the dispatches, and letters for England, she 
 then sailed on her return. 
 
 Light northerly winds, together with the dull sailing of the 
 now deeply laden ships, prevented them from making much 
 progress for several days, and kept them in the neighbour- 
 hood of ice-bergs, some of them from one to two hundred 
 feet high, and it was necessary in one or two instances, to 
 tow the ships clear of them by boats. 
 
 On the morning of the 13th of July, the ice was observed 
 on the clearing up of a fog, to be slack for a considerahle 
 distance within the margin of the pack. The favourable ap- 
 pearance it nov^r assumed, combined with a fair wind, induced 
 Captain Parry to enter it, and the ships pushed several 
 leagues within the margin. From this time the obstructions 
 from the quantity and closeness of the ice, were sucli as to 
 keep the men almost constantly employed in heaving, warping, 
 or sawiner through it, and yet with so little success that at the 
 
TO THE ^'ORTH rOI.K. 71T 
 
 close of the month of July they had only penetrated seventy 
 miles to tlie westward. Here, while closely beset, on thr 
 first of August they encountered a hard gale from the south- 
 east, which pressing the ice together in every direction, the 
 Hecia received several very awkward nips. In such cases the ice 
 is forced under a ship's bottom on one side, and on the other 
 up her side, both powers thus acting in such a manner as to 
 bring her on her beam ends. 
 
 While thus detained, Captain Parry remarked that con- 
 trary to what had hitherto been the case, the ship had drifted 
 to the westward notwithstanding the strength and duration of 
 the gale. However by dint of constant and extreme labour, 
 they gained the latitude of TS'* S4' on the nineteenth of Au- 
 gust, where the ice still presented as impenetrable a barrier as 
 before. They continued their efforts to push to the northward, 
 and on the 29th of August arrived in latitude 72" 15', on the 
 meridian of 63° 40', in which situation from former experience 
 they had reason to expect there would scarcely have been any 
 lee at this season. The obstructions however continued 
 nearly the same, notwithstanding their being much favoured 
 by south-easterly winds till the 8th of September, in latij;ude 
 740 7' and longitude 69° 54', or about one hundred and ten 
 miles to W. N. W. of the situation in which they cleared the 
 pack in the year 1819 ; bere the ice became more slack, but 
 it was not till the following day, that having forced their way 
 about forty miles further, they at length succeeded in releas- 
 ing themselves from the more than ordinary barrier of ice, in 
 the middle of Baffin's Bay. 
 
 With respect to the dimensions of the ice, through which they 
 had at length scrambled their way, principally by warping 
 and towing, a distance of between three and four hundred 
 miles, Captain Parry discovered that it for the most part in- 
 creased as well in the thickness as the extent of the floes as 
 they advanced westward. 
 
 A flock of ducks, generally of the eider species, was now 
 and then observed ; a few solitary seals, and two or three 
 bears, were all that were seen besides, and only one or two 
 
 4Z 
 
 iii». -..i^.'ii.-j.f 
 
718 PA UK y's THIRD VOYAGE 
 
 whales appeared till after they had entered Sir James Lan- 
 caster's sound. 
 
 AW past obstacles were however forgotten, when they once 
 saw an open sea before them. From the time of their leaving 
 the main body of ice, tJiey met with no obstacles of any kind, 
 and the entrance of the sound was, as usual, entirely free from 
 it except here and there a berg, floating about in that solitary 
 grandeur of which these enormous masses are calculated to 
 conve}' so sublime an idea. 
 
 On the morning of the 11th of September, Captain Parry 
 landed in a small bay close to the westward of Cape Warren- 
 der, accompanied by several of the officers, in order to exa- 
 mine the country, and to mak'C the necessary observations. The 
 Tcgetation was scanty, however a few plants were added to 
 the collection, and the party was successful in kilHng three 
 rein deer out of a small herd, which produced one hui dred aid 
 ninety-two pounds of venison, inclusive of the heads, &c. 
 which, as usual, became the perquisites of the successful 
 sportsmen. A narrow stream of water ran down the centre 
 of the bay, communicating with a small lagoon, ju.>t within 
 the beach. 
 
 On the morning of the 12th of September, a breeze sprung 
 up from the eastward, but unsteady and light, and on the 
 13th, when within seven leagues of Cape York, they had the 
 iMortifi cation to perceive the sea a-head covered with young 
 ice : on reaching it, they had as usual recourse to sallying, 
 breaking it with boats a-head, and Tarious other expedients, 
 all alike ineffectual without a fresh breeze furnishing a con- 
 stant impetus; so tnat after sevQu or eight hours of unsucc^^ss- 
 ful labour they remained fairly and immovably beset. Cap- 
 tain Parry now thought it high time to determine as to the 
 propriety of still continuing his effo»ts to push to the west- 
 ward this season, or of returning to England according to his 
 instructions on that head ; he finally resolved on pushing on 
 as far as the season would permit, and then to give a fair 
 ^rial, during the whole of the next Summer, to the route which 
 ^his instructions directed him to pursue. In order, however, 
 
TO THE NORTH POLK. 719 
 
 to confirm his own opinion on this subject, he requested to 
 be furnished with that of Captain Hoppner, and finding that 
 their views entirely agreed, Captain Parry resolved still to 
 pursue the object by all the means in his power. For three 
 successive days, they continued to use every effort to push 
 through the young ice, at times advancing and then after- 
 wards losing as much by the necessity of bearing up or wear- 
 ing, sallying with all hands, and after all rather losing ground 
 ban otherwise, while the young ice was every hour increas- 
 ing. 
 
 On the seventeenth of September, when they had been 
 driven back to the eastward of Admiralty Inlet, an easterly 
 breeze again enabled them to make some progress ; the sea 
 was now, for the most part, covered with young ice, whicli 
 had become so thick, as to look white through its whole 
 extent 
 
 DuVing several succeeding days they continued their effort;^, 
 to get to the westward with various success, and at times the 
 ships were in a state of the greatest danger. On the 26th a 
 breeze freshening, gave them hopes of reaching Prince Re- 
 gent'*s Inlet. After forcing the ships through several miles of 
 young ice by keeping two boats a-head, by ropes fixed to the 
 bowsprit, and carrying a press of canvass till the effort became 
 truly alarming, they at length entered the inlet, and found 
 themselves in clear water, the breeze driving the ice so as to 
 afford room for the ships to sail. I'hcy continued to advance 
 till they came nearly a-breast of Jackson Inlet, and ultimately 
 to the entrance of Port Bowen, which it was now the inten- 
 tion of Captain Parry to make their winter abode. Here 
 they made fast in sixty-two fathoms of water. 
 
 Though they could not expect to get the ships into the 
 most desirable anchorage, yet it was needful to remove them 
 from the sea-margin of the ice, by cutting a canal into the 
 floe as far as needful for security. This laborious work had 
 made considerable progress when, on the 29th, a heavy 
 gale blew for several hours. — Masses of ice breaking off from 
 the edge of the floe, kept them in constant alarm. — Happily 
 
720 parry's thirp "Voyack 
 
 however tliey held on, and on the evening of the first of 
 October, the sliips were warped into their winter quarters. 
 
 Captain Parry observes, that at this late season the whales 
 were so abundant that a ship engaged in that trade, might 
 soon have obtained a good supply, as they noticed nearly 
 thirty, although the ship's company kept no particular look out 
 for them ; they also saw a number of narwhales and wal- 
 ruses. 
 
 The winter arrangements, so closely resembled those before 
 adopted that a fresh description of them would prove little 
 more than a repetition of that already contained in the former 
 narratives. The mean daily temperature upon the Hecla's 
 lower deck during the winter, was generally about 60° and 
 never below 56°, and that of Captain Parry "'s cabin was 63% from 
 December to April inclusive ; every attention was, as usual, 
 paid to the occupation and diversion of the men's minds, their 
 former amusements being almost worn thread-bare, it required 
 some ingenuity to devise a plan that should possess novelty, 
 to recommend it. However Captain Hoppner completely 
 accomplished this purpose by the establishment of a masque- 
 rade, in v^hich officers and men should alike take a part, and it 
 is impossible that any idea could have proved more happy. 
 -Admirably dressed characters of various descriptions readily 
 took their parts, and many of these were supported Vi^ith a 
 degree of spirit and genuine humour which would not have 
 disgraced a more refined assembly, and no instance occurred 
 of any thing that could interfere with the regular discipline 
 of the ships. These were indeed masquerades without licen- 
 tiousness, carnivals without excess. 
 
 Immediately after the ships were finally secured, Captain 
 Parry erected the observatory on shore, and commenced ar- 
 rangements for the various astronomical observations. The 
 Aurora Borealis, which constitutes one of the peculiar features 
 of a polar winter, occurred with nearly the same frequency as 
 on former occasions. It usually consisted of an arch, some- 
 times tolerably continuous, but more frequently broken into 
 detached irregular masses. The termination to the S. E. was 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 721 
 
 never exactly visible, owing to the height of the land in that 
 quarter, but upon the whole, the arch seems to have been 
 more frequently bisected by the plane of the magnetic, than 
 by that of the true meridian. This winter afforded but few 
 brilliant displays of the Aurora. The Meteors, called falling 
 stars, were much more frequent during this winter than ever 
 before were seen. The height of the land about Port Bowen 
 delayed longer than usual the sun's appearance above the 
 horizon, but at length they caught a glimpse of him on the 
 2nd of February 1825, and it became visible at the ships on 
 the 22nd, after an absence of one hundred and twenty-one 
 days. It is very long after the sun's re-appearance in these 
 regions, that the effect of his rays, as to warmth, becomes 
 perceptible. Towards the third week in March, thin flakes 
 of snow lying upon black painted wood, and exposed to the 
 sun's direct rays in a sheltered situation, readily melted. 
 After this the thawing proceeded at an inconceivably rapid 
 rate, the whole surface of the floes being covered with large 
 pools of water increasing in size and depth. 
 
 The principal animals seen during the winter were bears, 
 of which they killed twelve from October to June. One of 
 these animals was nearly proving fatal to a seaman of the 
 Fury, who havnig straggled from his companion when at {he 
 top of a high hill, saw a large bear coming towards him. 
 Being unarmed, he prudently made off, taking off his boots 
 to enable him to run the faster, but he precipitated himself 
 over an almost perpendicular cliff, down which he is said 
 to have rolled several hundred feet, where he was met by some 
 of his companions in a very lacerated condition, and continued 
 in a very dangerous state for some time after. 
 
 A she bear, killed in the open water ai Port Bowen, afforded 
 a strikinj^: instance of maternal affection ; she might herself 
 easily have escaped the boat, but would not forsake her young, 
 which she was actually " towing off" by allowing them to 
 rest on her back, when the boat came near them. A second 
 similar instance occurred in the spring, when two cubs having 
 got down into a large crack of the ice, their mother placed 
 
722 parry's third voyage 
 
 herself before them, so as to secure them fiom the attack of 
 our people, which she might easily have avoided herself. 
 One or two foxes were killed, and four were caught in traps 
 during the winter. The colour of one of these animals which 
 lived for some time on board the Fury, and became tolerably 
 tame, was nearly pure white till the month of May, when he 
 became of a di|-ty chocolate colour. Only three hares were 
 killed from October to June, their fur was extremely thick, 
 soft and beautifully white ; a single ermine, and a few mice 
 completed the scanty list of quadrupeds at this desolate and 
 unproductive place. 
 
 Of birds, a flock or two of ducks were occasionally seen 
 flying as late as the third of October, but none from that time 
 till the beginning of June. A very few grouse were met 
 with, a single specimen was obtained on the 23rd of Decem- 
 ber ; but they again made their appearance towards the end 
 of March, and, in less than a month, about two hundred were 
 killed. Lieutenant Ross remarked, tliat the grouse met with 
 here, are ol" three kinds. The snow buuliiig with its spright- 
 ly note, was, as usual, one of the earliest visitants in the 
 spring ; but these were few in number and remained only a 
 short time. A very few sandpipers were also seen, and now 
 and then one or two glaucous, ivory, and kittinake gulls. 
 Towards the end of June, thedovekies were extremely numer- 
 ous in the cracks of ice at the entrance of Port Bowen, and 
 as they were the only fresh supply that they were able to 
 procure, the men were permitted to go out occasionally with 
 guns, after the ships were ready for sea, to obtain for their 
 messes this wholesome change of diet ; while such exertions 
 also contributed essentially to their general health and cheer- 
 fulness. Many hundreds of these birds were obtained in 
 the course of a few days. 
 
 In order to obtain oil for another winter's consumption, be- 
 fore the ships could be released from the ice, having seen 
 many black whales in the open water to the northward, 
 two boats from each ship were transported four miles along 
 •bore in that direction, to be in readiness for killing a whale 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. . 7.^3 
 
 nntl boiling the oil on the beach, whenever the open water 
 should approach sufficiently near. They took their station 
 near a remarkable peninsular piece of land on the south side 
 of the entrance to Jackson's Inlet, which had, on the former 
 voyage, appeared to them as an Island. On the 12th the ice 
 began to detach itself, and the boats under the command of 
 I^ieutenants Sherer and Ross, being launched on the following 
 day, succeeded almost immediately in killing a small whale, of 
 "five feet bone " exactly answering their purpose. On the 
 afternoon of the 19th, a very welcome stop was put to their 
 operations by the separation of the floe entirely across the 
 harbour. AH hands being instantly recalled by signal, were, 
 on their return, set to work to get the ships into the gravelled 
 canal, and to saw away what still remained in it to prevent 
 their warping to sea. This work was continued from half 
 past six till the following morning, when they succeeded in 
 getting clear. The weather being calm, two hours were oc- 
 cupied in towing the ships to sea, and thus the officers and 
 men were employed at very laborious work for twenty six 
 hours. It was impossible however, to regret the necessity of 
 these comparatively trifling exertions, especially as it was now 
 evident that to have sawed their way out, without any canal, 
 would have required at least a fortnight of heavy and fa- 
 tiguing labour. 
 
 On standing out to sea on Wednesday the 20th of July, 
 they sailed with a light wind towards the western shore of 
 Prince Regent's Inlet. After sailing about eight miles, they 
 were stopped by a body of ice, lying between them and a 
 space of open water beyond ; on standing back, they were 
 shortly afterwards enveloped in one of the thick fogs which 
 had for several weeks past, been observed almost daily hang- 
 ing over some part of the sea in the offing, though they had 
 scarcely experienced any in Port Bowen, until the water be- 
 came open at the mouth of the harbour. On clearing up of 
 the fog on the 21st, they could perceive no opening of the ice 
 leading towards the western land, nor any appearance of the 
 smallest channel to the southward, along the eastern shore. 
 
724 parry's third voyage 
 
 Captain Parry determined therefore at once to try a little 
 further to the northward, as he felt confident of beinor able to 
 pii-h along the shore if he could once gain it. Light winds 
 detained them very much, but being at length favoured by a 
 breeze, they carried all sail to the north-west, and they stood 
 off and on, in the hope that a southerly breeze, which had 
 sprung up, might serve to open a channel. After sailing all 
 night with iiorht and variable winds, they found themselves on 
 the clearing up of a thick fog, through which they had been 
 dialling on the morning of the 24th, within one third of a mile 
 of Cape Sepplngs, the land just appearing above the fog, in 
 time to save them from danger. The Fury being apprized 
 by guns of Captain Parry''s situation, both ships were hauled 
 off the land ; and the fog soon after dispersing, they had the 
 satisfaction to perceive, that the late gale had blown the ice off 
 the land, leaving a fine navigable channel from one to two 
 miles wide. They had now an opportunity of discovering 
 that a long peak of very low land runs out from the southern- 
 most of the Leopold Islands, nnd another from the shore to 
 the southward of Cape Clarence. 
 
 It was the general feeling at this period that the voyage 
 had but now commenced. The labours of a bad summer, and 
 tedium of a long winter were forgotten in a moment. Early 
 on the morning of the 25th of July, they passed an opening 
 in the land which they now found to be a bay, about three 
 miles deep, but apparently open to the sea. It was named by 
 Captain Parry after Hastings Elwin, Esq. of Bristol, in token 
 of his grateful esteem for that gentleman. A breeze enabled 
 the ships again to make some progress, and they passed du- 
 ring the night a second bay, also appearing open to the sea. It 
 was called Eatty Bay, in honour of Captain Batty, of the 
 Grenadier Guards. The ice openmg in the afternoon of the 
 27th, they cast off and sailed four or five miles with a northerly 
 breeze. On the 29th, the ice being slack for a short distance, 
 the Hecla was shifted half a mile to the northward. ' In hopes 
 oi' finding salmon here, they tried for some time with several 
 hand nets, but nothing was caught or seen. 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 725 
 
 In this place were a number of Esquimaux stone circles, 
 apparently of a very old date, being quite overgrown with 
 grass, moss, and other plants. Jn the neighbourhood of 
 these habitations, the vegetation was much more luxuriant 
 than any thing of the kind, that had been seen before or during 
 this voyage ; another circumstance which they noticed about 
 this time, and still more so as the season advanced, was the 
 rapid progress which the warmth had already made in 
 dissolving the last year's snow, of which not a particle could 
 be seen, at the close of July. These facts, together with the 
 beautiful weather they had enjoyed, tended to show that 
 this was an unusually fine summer. 
 
 The ice opening for a mile and a half along-shore on the 
 30th, the Hecla's berth was shifted about that distance to the 
 southward, to afford an opportunity of seeing round a point 
 of land, though her situation was thereby much altered for 
 the worse; the Fury remained where she was. In the course 
 of the night they had reast)n to suppose, by the Fury's heeling, 
 that she was either on shore, or heavily pressed by the ice 
 from without ; and early on the morning of the 31st, Cap- 
 tain Hoppner communicated the intelligence that she had 
 been forced on the ground, where she still lay, having suffer- 
 ed damage in one of her propelling wheels. A large party of 
 hands from the Hecla being sent round to the Fury at high 
 water, she came off the ground with very little strain. A 
 shift of wind to the northward, determined Captain Parry to 
 take advantage of it, and a signal was immediately made ; but 
 while the sails were setting, the ice, which had at first been at 
 about three quarters of a mile distant, was observed to be 
 closing on the shore, the sails were, however, kept set, and as 
 the body of the ice was setting to the southward, they went 
 with it some little distance in that direction. The Hecla at 
 length struck the ground several times, and being then brought 
 up by it, remained immovable, the depth of water under her 
 keel abaft being sixteen feet, or about a foot less than she 
 drew. 
 
 The Fury continuing to drive, was carried past the Hecla 
 
 fiA 
 
7'2G parry's third voyage 
 
 Huliout damage, and having gone about two lumdred yards 
 further, she was observed to receive a severe pressure from a 
 floe-piece forcing her directly against a grounded mass of ice, 
 upon the beach. As the tide fell the Fury's stern, which was 
 a-ground, was lifted several feet, and the Hecia at low water 
 presented no very pleasing or comfortable spectacle. How- 
 ever, about high water, the ice very opportunely slacking, the 
 Hecla was hove off with great ease. 'J'he Fury was not long 
 after in getting off the ground, but the water was gaining on 
 two punnps, and Captain lloppner and his men were observ- 
 ed to labour incessantly for eight and forty hours; and it at 
 length became evident that the Fury could proceed no further 
 without repairs. They were therefore under the necessity of 
 remaining in their berths, where the smallest external pressure 
 a)uld force them on shore, neither ship having more than two 
 feet water to spare. 
 
 The ice coming in with considerable violence, on the night 
 of the ^d of Aiigust, once more forced the Fury on shore, 
 so that at low water she sewed two feet and a half ; nothing 
 but the number and strength of the Hecla's hawsers prevented 
 her from sharing the same fate. The Fury floated in the 
 morning, but there was no opening of the ice to allow the 
 ships to move ; tlie wind blowing fresh from the northward, 
 on the 4th, pressed tlie ice so violently upon the ships, as 
 almost to force them adrift during the night, and kept them 
 all most laboriously employed. 
 
 The more they investigated the state of the Fury the mor© 
 fully the necessity appeared of heaving her down. She was 
 in fact far from being sea- worthy. One third of her crew were 
 constantly employed at the pumps, and some of their hands 
 were so sore from the constant friction of the ropes, that they 
 could hardly handle them ; many otlier circumstances also 
 shewed the necessity of having the Fury examined and re- 
 paired. Some of her dry provisions were therefore removed 
 on board the Hecla, and a quantity of iron work, and other 
 si ores which were not of a perishable character, were carried 
 on shore. 
 
TO THE NOBTH POLE. 72T 
 
 Captain Parry, accompanied by a person from the Fury, noir 
 proceeded to seek for a place of shelter for the ships, and, at 
 length, ahhough they were unable to reach the most desirable 
 harbour which presented itself, both ships were made fast in the 
 best berths they could reach. Within twenty minutes after 
 they had fixed themselves, the whole body of ice set in upon 
 the ships, entirely closing up the shore. 
 
 The ice remaining quite close on the 6th, ev^ry individual 
 in both ships, with the exception of those at the pumps, wasr 
 employed in landing provisions from the Fury. On the 
 following day the ice remaining as before, the work was con- 
 tinued without intermission, and a great quantity of things 
 landed ; every living creatu-re among them was somehow or 
 other employed, not even excepting the dogs, which were set 
 to drag up the stores on the beach, so that their little dock- 
 yard soon exhibited the most animated scene imaginable. 
 'I'he Fury was so much lightened in the course of the day, 
 that two pumps were sufficient to keep her free, until she 
 hove down. At night, just as the people were going to rest, 
 the ice began to move to the southward and pressed her over 
 on her side to a most alarming degree. 
 
 'I'he ice still continuing very close on the 9th, all hands 
 wtre employed in attempting by saws and axes to clear the 
 JJecla, which still grounded on the tongue of ice every tide. 
 While thus employed in securing the ships, the smoothness of 
 water enabled them to see in some degree, the nature of the 
 Fury's damage and to conclude it was evident that it would 
 altogether prove very serious. 
 
 Being favoured with fine weather they proceeded soquickiy 
 that on the 12th of August, every cask was landed and the 
 spare sails and clothing put on Iward the Hecla. On the 
 13th a mass of heavy ice, which had been a-ground within the 
 Fury, had floated off along-side of her, thereby contracting 
 her narrow basin and leaving the ship no room to turn round. 
 I'hey therefore got a purchase on it, and at the next high tide 
 it hove out of the way and drifted off altogether. 
 
 On the 14th the ice slackening a little they tiglitencd the 
 
7^ PARIIY^S THIED VOYAGE 
 
 cables which had stretched and yielded a little to the pressure 
 to which they had been subject. It proved fortunate thai 
 they did so, for in the course of the day they were several 
 times interrupted by the ice coming with a tremendous strain, 
 the wind blowing N. N. W* the whole pack of ice setting 
 rapidly to the southward. The bight was pressed in so much 
 as to force the Fury against the berg astern of her, twice in 
 the course of the day, Mr. Waller who was in the hold when 
 this occurred the second time, reported that the coals about 
 the keelson were moved by it, and it seemed as if part of the 
 sliip's bottom was falling down ; and one of the men at work 
 there made a spring for the hatchway. 
 
 From these occurrences it was clearly dangerous that the 
 Fury should be hove down under circumstances of such risk ; 
 an additional anchor was therefore placed with a hope of 
 breaking the force of the ice, and turning the direction of the 
 pressure from the ships. This defence had scarcely been 
 completed when the largest floe of ice they had met since they 
 left Port Bowen, came sweeping along the shore at the rate of 
 one mile and a half an hour. A projecting point of this floe 
 grazed one of the ice-bergs to which the ships were fastened, 
 and would certainly have dislodged it but for the cable 
 so recently attached to it. A smaller mass of ice grazed 
 them about midnight on a very high spring tide, and for three 
 hours their situation was most critical, for had any one of the 
 ice-bergs to which they were anchored been carried away 
 or broken, both ships must have been driven on shore ; for- 
 tunately however the main body kept at a short distance from 
 the land until the tide had fallen. 
 
 The wind veering to W. N. W. on the morning of the 15th 
 and still continuing to blow strong, the ice was forced three or 
 four miles ofl" the land in the course of a few hours, leaving 
 them a fine day to continue their work. Captain Parry took 
 advantage of this open water to send the launch for the Fury's 
 iron work left at the former station. In the evening the crew 
 of the Fury were received on board tlie Hecla, every arrange- 
 ment having been previously made for their personal comfort, 
 
To tH|i NORTH POLE. 729 
 
 and for the preservation of cleanliness, ventilation, and dry 
 warmth throughout tlie ship. The Officers of the Fury, by 
 their own choice, pitched a tent on shore for messing and 
 sleeping in. On the 17th when every preparation was com- 
 pleted, the cables were found again so slack, that they were 
 obliged to occupy several hours in putting them to rights. 
 This work being finished, the people were allowed three hours 
 rest only, it being necessary to heave the ship down at or near 
 high water, as there was not sufficient depth to allow her to 
 take her distance at any other time of the tide. Every pre- 
 paration having been made, at three A. M. on the 18th, they 
 began to heave her down on the lar-board side ; while attempt- 
 ing this so many difficulties occurred, that the officers and 
 men were scarcely capable of further exertion, and rested a 
 few hours. On this, and on one or two other occasions, they 
 became afflicted with stupor, amounting to a certain degree of 
 failure of intellect, rendering the individual so affected, quite 
 unable at first to comprehend the meaning of an order, though 
 still as wilUng as ever to obey it. It was, therefore, perhaps a 
 fortunate necessity which produced the intermission of labour 
 which the strength of every individual seemed to require. 
 The gale increasing during the whole day and night of th.e 
 18th, had, on the following morning, so destroyed the beigs 
 on which their sole dependence was placed, that they no lon- 
 ger remained a-ground at low water. After a night of the 
 most anxious consideration, it appeared but too plain, that, 
 should the ice again come in, neither ship could any longer 
 be secured from driving on shore. It was therefore determin- 
 ed instantly to prepare the Hecla for sea, making her thorough- 
 ly effective in every respect, they therefore commenced their 
 Avork, and such was the hearty good will with which it was 
 carried on, that by midnight the whole was accomplished. 
 I'he people were once more quite exhausted by these exer- 
 tions, especially those belonging to the Fury, who had never 
 thorouglily recovered their first fatigues. 
 
 Alter some disturbed rest, they continued to work on the 
 21st ; at three P. iNI. the crews were ci^Ued on board to dinner, 
 
730 parry's third voyage 
 
 which they had not finished, when several masses of ice, driv- 
 ing along the shore at a quick rate, convinced Captain Parry 
 that very little additional pressure would tear every thing 
 away, and drive both ships on shore. '1 he ships could no 
 longer be considered in a place of safety, and therefore the 
 Hecla got under sail immediately. 
 
 It was a quarter past three P. M. when they cast off, the 
 wind then blowing fresh from the north-east. Captain Hopp- 
 ner had scarcely got on board the Fury, and was busily enga- 
 ged in getting the anchors and cables on board, when some large 
 pieces of heavy ice closed in with the land near her, and at 
 twenty minutes past four P. M. the Fury was driven on shore. 
 I'he several masses of ice had disposed themselves, so as 
 almost to suround her on every side where there was sufficient 
 depth of water for hauling her off. Under these circum- 
 stances, hopeless for the time. Captain Hoppner judiciously 
 determined to return to the Hecla, but, being anxious to keep 
 the ship free from water as long as possible, he left an officer 
 and a small party of men to continue working the pumps as 
 long as a communication could be kept up between the Hecla 
 and the shore. 
 
 Every moment however decreased the practicability of 
 doing this ; and finding that the current swept the Hecla 
 a long way to the southward while hoisting up the boats, 
 and that more ice was drifting in towards the shore, it was 
 deemed best to recall the party at the pumps to avoid the 
 risk of parting company altogether. At eight o'clock in the 
 evening Mr. Bird, with the rest of the people, quitted the 
 Fury ; and, in three hours after, more than half a mile of 
 closely-packed ice intervened between the Fury and the 
 Hecla, and before morning this barrier had increased to 
 the breadth of about five miles. 
 
 On Monday the 22nd, they carried a press of canvass all 
 night, with a fresh breeze from the north, to enable them to 
 keep a-breast of the Fury. Advantage was taken of the 
 little leisure to let the people mend and wash their clothes. 
 It fell quite calm in the evening, and they did not, during 
 
TO THE NORTH POLK. 731 
 
 the day, perceive any current setting to the soutliwani, but in 
 the course of the night they drifted about five leagues to the 
 south-west, and they got a distinct view of a large extent of 
 land, which had before been seen, for the first time, by some 
 seamen who walked from where the Fury lay. The whole of 
 the bay which was named after Francis Creswell Esq., as well 
 as the land to the southward, was free from ice. 
 
 IJeing impatient to obtain a more accurate knowledge of the 
 state of the Fury, and the wind becoming light. Captains 
 l*arry and Hoppner left the Hecla in two boats, and having 
 readied the ship found her heeling so much outward, that 
 her main channels were within a foot of the water, and a large 
 floe piece which was still along side her, prevented her from 
 falling over still more contiderably. The first hour's inspec- 
 tion of the Fury's condition, plainly shewed, that, exposed as 
 she was, her holds being full of water, and the damage of 
 l)er hull being more considerable than before, any endea- 
 vour to get her off, or to float her to any known place of 
 safety would be hopeless, and productive of great risk to 
 the remaining ship, Captain Hoppner and other officers, after 
 spending several hours in examining every part of the ship, 
 both within and without, gave it as their opinion that it w^ould 
 be quite impracticable to make her sea worthy, even if she 
 could be hauled off. Mr. Parfer, the carpenter, considered that 
 it would occupy five days to clear the ship of water ; and that if 
 she were got off, all the pumps would not be sufficient to keep 
 her free, Captain Hoppner and the other officers were, there- 
 fore, of opinion that it was absolutely necessary to abandon 
 the Fury. 
 
 Captain Parry, therefore, with extreme regret made the 
 signal for the Fury's officers and men to be sent for their 
 clothes, most of which had been put on shore with the stores. 
 Having allowed them an hour for packing, the Fury*s boats 
 were hauled upon the beach, and at two P. M . she was finally 
 abandoned ; and Captain Parry was therefore reduced to the 
 only remaining conclusion that it was his duty, under all the cir- 
 
732 PAHRV'S THIRD VOYAOE 
 
 cumstances of the case, to return to England, in compliance 
 with the tenor of his instructions. 
 
 The whole of the Fury's stores were of necessity left either 
 on board her or on shore, every spare corner of the Hecla 
 being required for the double complement of officers and 
 men, whose cleanliness and health could only be maintained 
 by keeping the decks clear and well ventilated. 
 
 Captain Parry, in passing reflections on the accident which 
 occurred to the Fury, remarks, that such an event can excite 
 no surprise to any person who considers the precarious state 
 of the navigation of these northern seas. That indeed it was 
 rather to be expected, and the preservation of the ships in the 
 former voyages was rather a matter of wonder than that it 
 should occur on the present occasion ; he observes, that no 
 ship will ever discovei- a north-west passage, which does nut 
 press forward, fearless of danger, whenever an opportunity 
 occurs ; and that a vessel of any magnitude or strength will 
 be but as a nutshell when pressed by a moving body of ice 
 on one side, and having the unyielding ground on the other ; 
 he says it was not **our own arm," or to **our own strength,'* 
 we owed our preservation. 
 
 The ice met with after leaving Port Bowen, previously to 
 the Fury's disaster, and for some days after, was much the 
 lightest as well as the most broken ever before known on this 
 coast, the summer of 1825 was, beyond all doubt, the war- 
 mest and most favourable that bad been experienced since 
 that of 1818 ; not more than two or three days occurred, 
 during the months of July and August, in which the heavy fall 
 of snow took place which so commonly converts the aspect 
 of nature in these regions, in a single hour, from the cheerful- 
 ness of summer into the dreariness of winter. Indeed, every 
 appearance of nature exhibited a striking contrast with the 
 last season, while it seemed evidently to furnish an extraordinary 
 compensation for its rigour and inclemency. Few coasts exhibit 
 so little of animal life ; for days together, only one or two 
 seals, a single sea horse, and now and then a flock of ducks 
 were seen. Captain Parry mentions, however, as an excep- 
 
TO THE XORTII POLE. 733 
 
 tion to this scarcity of animals, the numberless kittiwakcs 
 which were flying about, and hundreds of white whales were 
 sporting about in the shoal water close to the beach ; no black 
 whales were seen on this coast ; two rein-deer were observed, 
 but this was the only summer in which a single pound of 
 venison was not pFocured. Indeed, the whole of their supplies 
 obtained this way, during the voyage, including fish, flesh, 
 and fowl, did not exceed twenty pounds a man. 
 
 The weather continuing nearly calm during the 26th, and 
 the ice keeping at the distance of several miles from the land, 
 ^ave them an opportunity of clearing the decks, and stowing 
 the things belonging to the Fury"'s crew more comfortably for 
 their accommodation : with the exception of a few patches of 
 snow here and there, the whole of this coast was free from 
 snow before the middle of August ; they found Mill's harbour 
 a convenient place of shelter, with sufficient space for a great 
 number of ships. The depth of the water in most parts is 
 greater than could be wished, the beach on the west side is a 
 fine bold one, and consists of small pebbles of limestone, the 
 harbour may be best known by the very remarkable flat- 
 topped hill, which Captain Parry named after Lieutenant 
 Sherer. This particular description of jViilfs harbour was 
 deemed necessary, because it appears probable that at no very 
 distant period, the whalers may find it of service. The west- 
 ern coast of Baffin's Bay, now an abundant fishery, will pro, 
 bably, like most others, fail in a few years, for the whales will 
 always, in the course of time, leave a place where they con- 
 tinue year after year to be molested. In that case Prince 
 Regent's Inlet will undoubtedly become a rendezvous for our 
 ships, as well on account of the numerous fish there, as the 
 facility with which any ship having once crossed the ice in 
 Baffin's bay, is sure to reach it during the months of July and 
 August. Capt^n Parry saw nine or ten black whales the 
 evening of their arrival in Mill's harbour ; these were, how- 
 ever, somewhat below the middle size. 
 
 By carrying a press of sail, they were enabled towards 
 night, on the last day of August, to get into clear water, and 
 
 5B 
 
734? parry's third voyage 
 
 by four A. M. on the following day, tliey got into a perfectly 
 open sea in Barrow's Strait, and were enabled to bear away to 
 the eastward. At three P. M. on the 7th of September, be- 
 ing in latitude 12" 30', longitude 60" 5', and having in the 
 course of eighty miles, made only a single tack, they reached 
 the margin of the ice, and got into the opei* sea on its eastern 
 siiJe. In the whole course of this distance the ice was so much 
 spread, that it would not, if at all closely " packed," have 
 occupied one third of the place. 
 
 The openness of the ice at this season, when compared with 
 its extent about the same time the preceding year, was a 
 decided confirmation that the summer of 1824 was extremely 
 unfavourable for penetrating to the westward about the usual 
 latitudes. How it proved elsewhere could not of course be 
 conjectured, but on the 8th, in latitude 71° 55', longitude 60" 
 30', and close to the margin of the ice, they fell in with the 
 Alfred, Ellison, and Elizabeth whalers, of Hoill, all running 
 to the northward, even at this season, to look for whales. As 
 the whaling ships were not homeward bound, it vi^as not 
 deemed necessary to send dispatches by them. After an hour's 
 communication with them, Captain Parry made sail to the 
 southward. On the 10th an easterly wind sprung up, which 
 gradually freshened to a gale, and blew strongly for twenty-four 
 hours. In the course of the night, and while lying-to under 
 the storm sails, an ice-berg was discovered under their lee;, the 
 main-topsail being thrown a-back, they were enabled to drop 
 clear of this immense body, which would have been a danger- 
 ous neighbour in a heavy sea. 
 
 Being favoured with a northerly breeze on the 15th, they 
 began to make some way to the southward. After this they 
 saw^ but one ice-berg, previous to their clearing Davis' Strait. 
 On the morning of the 24jth, notwithstanding the continuance 
 of a favourable breeze, they met, in the latitude of 58V, so 
 heavy a swell from the north-east as to make the ship 
 labour violently for four and twenty hours ; a calm then 
 followed, causing the ship to roll heavily in the hollow of the 
 8ca. On the morning of the 25th, it freshened into a gale » 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 
 
 which brought the ship under the main top-sail arid stoiui 
 btay-sails; and, at seven the following niorning it increased to 
 a gole of great violence. The indications of the barometer pie- 
 vious to, and during this gale, deserve to be noticed ; because it 
 is only about Cape Farewell, that, in coming from the north- 
 ward, this instrument begins to ^peak a language which lias 
 ever been intelligible, as a weather glass. After this gale the 
 atmosphere seemed to be quite cleared, and they enjoyed a 
 week of such remarkably fine weather as seldom occurs at 
 this season of the year ; they had then a succession of strong 
 southerly winds, but were enabled to continue their progress 
 to the eastward, so as to make Mould head, towards th** 
 north-west end o\^ the Orkney Islands, at day light on the 10th 
 of October ; and the wind l3ecoming more westerly, they round- 
 etl north Konaldsha Island at noon, and then shaped a course 
 for Buchan-ness. 
 
 In running down Davis' Strait, as well as in crossing the 
 Atlantic, they saw on this passage a good deal of the Aurora- 
 l*)orealis. The most brilliant display, however, of this beauti- 
 ful phenomenon, which they ever witnessed, and which far 
 surpassed any thing of the kind observed at Port Bowen, 
 occurred on the night of the 24th of September, in latitude 
 58i" longitude 44^° ; it first appeared in a true eastern direc- 
 tion in detached masses like luminous clouds of yellow or 
 sulphur coloured light. When this appearance had continued 
 for about an hour, it began, at nine P. M., to spread upwards 
 and gradually extended itself into a narrow band of light, 
 passing through the zenith and again downwards to the west- 
 ern horizon. The intensity of light during the brightest 
 part of the phenonemon, which continued three quarters of 
 an hour, could scarcely be inferior to that of the moon, when 
 full. 
 
 As they approached the Orkneys, Captain Parry demanded 
 fiom the officers, in compliance with his instructions from the 
 Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, all the logs, journals, 
 drawings, and charts, which had been made during the 
 voyage. After rounding the north-end of the Orkneys, on the 
 
^736 parry's third voyage. 
 
 10th of October, they Were, on the 12th, met by a strong 
 southerly wind, when off Peterhead ; Captain Parry therefore 
 immediately landed (for the second time) at that place, and 
 setting off without delay for London, arrived at the Admiralty 
 on the 16th of October 1825* 
 
 The Hecla arrived at Sheerness on the 20th of October, 
 where she was detained for a few days, for the purpose of 
 Captain Hoppner, his officers and ship's company, being put 
 upon their trial (according to the customary and indispensable 
 rule in such cases) for the loss of the Fury ; when, it is scarcely 
 necessary to add, they received an honourable acquittal. The 
 Hecla then proceeded to Woolwich to be paid off. 
 
 The concluding paragraph of this eventful and interesting 
 voyage, does equal credit to Captain Parry's head and heart. 
 "Happy as I should have considered myself (says he) in 
 solving this question, instead of leaving it a matter of specula- 
 tion and conjecture, happy shall I also be if any labours of 
 mine, in the humble, though it would seem necessary, office 
 tjf pioneer, should ultimately contribute to the success of some 
 more fortunate individual ; but most happy should I again 
 be, to be selected as that individual ; may it still fall to 
 England's lot to accomplish this undertaking, and may she 
 ever contribute to the advancement of science, and to promote 
 with her own the welfare of mankind at large ! Such enter- 
 prises, so disinterested as well as useful in their object, do 
 honour to the country which undertakes them ; even when they 
 fail, they cannot but excite the admiration and respect of every 
 liberal and cultivated mind ; and the page of future history 
 will undoubtedly record them as every way worthy of a pow- 
 erful, a virtuous, and an enlightened nation." 
 
( 737 ) 
 
 FOURTH VOYAGE 
 
 OF 
 
 CAPTAIN PARRY 
 
 Notwithstanding the failure of the third attempt 
 
 of Captain Parry which has just been narrated, his ardour 
 was in nowise damped ; and in the spring of the year 1826, 
 he addressed himself to the Lords of the Admiralty, suggest- 
 ing the possibility of reaching the North Pole by proceeding 
 from Spitzbergen over the ice, and through any spaces of 
 water which might occur by means of sledge-boats. This 
 offer was backed by a communication from the Royal Society 
 recommending its adoption. In consequence an expedition 
 was ordered to be equipped for that purpose, and Captain 
 Parry was appointed to the command of it. His Majesty's 
 ship Hecla, was again put into commission in November 1826, 
 and Captain Parry prepared for his departure in the spring 
 of the following year. 
 
 The opinion of those navigators who had visited Spitzber- 
 gen and especially the statement made by Captain Lutwidge, 
 the associate of Captain Phipps in the attempt made in the 
 year 1773, was, that the ice to the north-east had the ap- 
 pearance of one continued plane of smooth unbroken ice, to the 
 distance of several leagues. Captain Phipp's observations are 
 to the same effect. Mr. Scoresby junior says, that he observed 
 a field of ice in these parts, so free from hummock or fissure 
 that a coach might have been driven over it in a direct line 
 without danger or obstruction ; and in a paper presented by 
 
738 parry's FO^KIH V0YA(;E 
 
 Ilim to the Wernerian Society of Edinburgli, he enlarges in his 
 observations on the praclicability of the attempt. Several 
 experienced masters of vessels, engaged in the whale fishery 
 also, whom Captain Parry consulted, expressed their opinions 
 as favourable to the attempt. 
 
 Captain Franklin also had so far adopted the opmion of 
 the possibility of travelling over the ice in the manner now 
 j)roposed, that he had drawn up a plan for making the 
 attempt, and placed it in the nands of Mr. Barrow, one of 
 tlie Secretaries of the Admiralty, stating that, from his own 
 experience arid from consultations which he had with Captains 
 Buchan and Beechey, he had great expectation that it might 
 be successful. 
 
 Two boats were now built under the direction of Captain 
 Parry after a model by Mr. Peake, which in several respects 
 resembled what are called troop'boats, having great flatness 
 of floor, and, with the extreme breadth both fore and aft, 
 affording great room for stowage and of great buoyancy, 
 twenty feet long and seven feet broad. On the outside was a 
 covering of Mackintosh's water-proof canvass coated with tar; 
 over this was a plank of fir, then a sheet of stout felt, and 
 over all an oak plank. The whole was firmly secured to the 
 timbers by iron screws, and finished under the direction of 
 Mr. Lang, raaster^shipwright of Woolwich dock. The elas- 
 ticity of this mode of construction was well adapted to the 
 service for which the boats were intended. 
 
 On the sides of the keel a strong runner was fixed, shod 
 with smooth steel after the manner of a sledge, by which the 
 boats rested on the ice. Each boat had also two wheels, 
 and a small one abaft, after the manner of a Bath chair, hav- 
 ing a swivel for steering. These latter however did not 
 answer the intended purpose on trial and were removed. A 
 ** span " of hide-rope, was attached to the fore part of the 
 lunners, and two strong ropes of horsehsffr, for dragging the 
 boat. A broad leathern shoulder-belt, which could readily 
 be fastened to the drag ropes, was supplied to each individual. 
 
 The interior arrangements consisted only of two thwarts, 
 two lockers for the instruments and smaller stores, and a 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 739 
 
 frame- work along the sides to contain the hags of biscuit and tlie 
 spare clothing ; a bamboo mast, nineteen feet long, a duck sail, 
 which served also as an awning, a :spreat, a boat-hook, fourteen 
 paddles, and a steer-oar, completed the equipment of each boat. 
 
 Two officers, ten seamen, arid two mariners, formed tlie 
 appointment for each boat ; and it was purposed that these 
 boats should set out from Spitzbergen, about the beginning of 
 June, and to occupy that and the two fallowing fiionths, in the 
 attempt to reach the pole and in returning. They calculated on 
 being able to travel at the rate of about thirteen miles a day. 
 
 I'he provisions were to consist of biscuits, beef, pemmican, 
 sweetened cocoa powder, and a portion of rum concentrated to 
 fifty-five per cent, above proof, for the sake of close stowage. 
 
 All things being fully prepared for their departure the 
 following official Instructions were delivered to Captain Parry. 
 
 Bi/ the Commissioners for executing the office of Lord High 
 Admiral of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ire- 
 land^ Sfc. 
 
 Whereas the President and Council of the Royal Society 
 have expressed an opinion that an Expedition, for the pur- 
 pose of attempting to reach the North Pole, *' cannot fail to 
 afford many valuable results, and settle important matters of 
 philosophical enquiry,"" and whereas, conformably therewith, 
 we have thought fit, from your desire to be employed on this 
 service, and your zeal and experience in prosecuting discoveries 
 in the Arctic Regions, to intrust to your charge the conduct 
 of the said Expedition, and to appoint you to the comihand 
 of His Majesty's Ship Hecia ; you are hereby required and 
 directed, so soon as the said vessel shall in all respects be 
 ready for sea, to make the best of your way to the north- 
 ern part of Spitzbergen ; calling, however at Hammerfest 
 in Lapland, if you should thuik it expedient to take With" yOu 
 from thence a certain number of tame rein-deer to draw the 
 boats over the ice. 
 
 Oh your arrival at the northern shores of Spitzbergen, you 
 will fix upon some safe harbour or cove, ih which the HecIa 
 may be placed ; and having properly secured her, you are 
 
710 TARRY'S FOURTH VOYAnE 
 
 then to proceed with the boats, whose equipments have, under 
 your own directions, been furnished expressly for the service, 
 directly to the northward, and use your best endeavours to 
 reach the North Pole ; and having made such observations 
 ns are specified in the instructions for your former voyages 
 in the northern regions, and such as will be pointed out to 
 you by the council of the Royal Society, added to those 
 which your own experience will suggest, you will be careful 
 to return to Spitsbergen before the winter sets in, and at such 
 a period of tlie autumn as will ensure tlie vessel you command 
 not being frozen up, and thus obliged to winter there. 
 
 If, in proceeding towards the pole, any difficulties should 
 arise from the intervention of high and extensive land, or 
 from the rugged surface of continuous ice, or other difficulty, 
 the surmounting of which would evidently require a greater 
 length of time than it would be prudent to consume in order 
 to secure your safe return, you are in such case, to be careful 
 not to risk your ov^n life, and the lives of those who accom- 
 pany you ; even though, by perseverance, you should be 
 satisfied that such difficulty might be overcome, but at the 
 expence of so much time as might put to hazard the certainty 
 of returning to the ship. You will therefore, in such case, 
 content yourself with the best examination of such land, 
 should any be found, as time and other circumstances will 
 allow. Previous to your departure from the Hecia, you are 
 to direct Lieutenant Forster to proceed, in a boat fitted for 
 the purpose, as soon as the season shall be sufficiently advan- 
 ced, to survey the northern and eastern coast of Spitzbergen, 
 and to continue down the latter as far as may be practicable ; 
 with instructions to him to make observations on the dip, 
 variation, and intensity of the magnetic needle, the tempera- 
 ture, the Barometric pressure of the atmosphere ; and such 
 other meteorological phenomena, as he may be enabled to 
 notice ; the extent of open water ; the quantity, the position, 
 and nature of the ice ; the depth, temperature, and specific 
 gravity of the sea ; and you will also direct him to pay atten- 
 tion to the number of whales he may meet with, in order that 
 an opinion may be formed, as to the expediency and practica- 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 741 
 
 bility of extending the whale fishery on that coast; and you 
 will give him such directions as to the time he is to remain on 
 this survey, as will ensure his return to the vessel, so as not 
 to endanger her being shut up in the ice for the winter. 
 
 While these two operations are carrying on by yourself 
 and Lieutenant Foster, you are to instruct the officer left in 
 the command of the Hecla, to employ the officers and men re- 
 maining on board, in embracing every opportunity of making 
 all such observations as may best contribute to the benefit of 
 jeueral science, and collect and preserve all such specimens of 
 mbjects of Natural History, whether animals, plants or mine- 
 rals, as may be deemed new or curious. 
 
 When you have chosen the situation in which the ship is 
 to remain, and have become acquainted with the local circum- 
 stances of the coast, you will be enabled to j udge of the in- 
 structions which it may be necessary to give the officer who 
 will remain in the command of the ship, for ensuring your 
 finding her on your return, and for facilitating her putting 
 to sea as soon as the detached parties shall have rejoined : 
 after which you are to make the best of your way to England ; 
 and, on your arrival, you are immediately to repair to this 
 office in order to lay before us a full account of your proceed- 
 ings, taking care, before you leave the ship, to demand from 
 the several officers, petty officers and all other persons on 
 board, the logs and journals they may have kept, together 
 with any drawings or charts they may have made ; which are 
 all to be sealed up, and to be thereafter disposed of as we may 
 think proper. 
 
 Given under our hands the 24th of March, 1827. 
 (Signed) Melville, 
 
 Wm. Johnstone Hope, 
 
 G. CoCKBXJRN, 
 
 C. Clerk, 
 W. R. K. Douglas. 
 By Command of their Lordships^ 
 (Signed) J. W. Crokee^ 
 To Captain Willmm Edward Parry, Com- 
 mander of His Majesty's Sloop Hecla. 
 
 5C 
 
74}!^ PAllHV'i KOURIM VOYAGE 
 
 On the 4-th of April, 1827, the ship's company h.iving 
 received three months wages in advance, as also their river 
 pay, the Hecla weighed anchor and took her departure from 
 the Nore. The Comet steam boat assisted them as far as 
 Orfordness, and then, having received a packet of letters and 
 despatches, gave them three cheers and bade them farewell. 
 The weather was remarkably fine for the season of the vear, 
 and the winds were so favourable that they arrived off the 
 island of Soroe on the 17th, without having made one tack 
 until they entered the Fiord which forms the northern en- 
 trance. The observations made on the variations of the 
 magnetic needle appear, says Captain Parry, among the sim- 
 plest, and yet the strongest, in favour of the theory of two 
 magnetic poles in the northern hemisphere of the earth. 
 
 On the I8th the wind became light and variable, and they 
 were occupied in beating up towards Hammerfest. Receiving 
 a pilot on board, afier beating all night against an ebb tide, 
 they reached their anehorage at three o'clock in the morning 
 of the nineteenth. Here they were soon visited by the Rus- 
 sian consul, the collector of the customs, and Mr. Crowe, a 
 British merchant, who offered their services in any way that 
 might be desired. 
 
 Lieutenant Crozier was now despatched for the rein-deer 
 which were to accompany the party in their journey over the 
 ice ; and their instruments were landed, and Lieutenant 
 Foster and Captain Parry continued to make observations 
 during the whole time they remained at this place. 
 
 They took in at this place a fresh supply of water, procured 
 a quantity of fish and venison, and bought a set of snow shoes 
 and practised the people in the mode of walking in them in 
 deep snow. 
 
 The 23rd being tLe day on which his Majesty's birth-day 
 was appointed to be kept, the ship was dressed in colours and 
 a royal salute fired. On the same afternoon Lieutenant 
 Crozier returned from Alten, having procured eight rein-deer 
 to be used in travelling over the ice, and a supply of moss for 
 *heir provender. With a collar of skin round his neck, a 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 743 
 
 Single trace of skin between his legs, and a rein fastened after 
 the manner of a halter about his neck, this animal is perfect- 
 ly under the command of the driver. When the rein is 
 thrown on the offside of the animal, he starts at a full trot, 
 and when the rein is thrown back on the nearside it instantly 
 slops short. At first going off they appear distressed, but 
 they soon recover themselves and then proceed with apparent 
 ease. The only mode of provoking their speed is by shaking 
 the rein over their back. They will travel five or six days 
 without food, and if they can pick up the snow as they travel 
 they want no water. 
 
 On the 29th of April, having received from the gentlemen 
 at Hammerfest all the assistance required, they weighed 
 anchor at six o'clock A. M. and proceeded on their voyage. 
 
 Nothing particular occurred till the 5th of May, when they 
 met with the first straggling niass of ice. On the 9th, thev 
 were taken a-back by a squall of wind from the northward; on 
 the same day they saw two whale ships, the Alpheus and 
 the Active, both belonging to Peteihead, and on the day fol- 
 lowing several others came in sight. From Mr. Bennett, the 
 master of one of them, they learned that several of the ships 
 had been in the ice since the middle of April, and that the 
 obstacles to the sailing to the northward by the state of the 
 ice, were greater than had occurred for several years. 
 
 On the 11th, the ice opening they entered it together with 
 all the whalers, and proceeded about fifty miles further to the 
 northward and saw the land about Black Point, being the 
 southern extremity of Prince Charles's Island, when tbey 
 were again stopped by the close ice. On the 14th they 
 arrived off IIakluyt''s Headland, and prepared to land a quan- 
 tity of provisions and other stores, intended to be a supply 
 for the party on their return from the northward, in case the 
 ship should have been obliged to leave these parts and the 
 exploring party not be able at once to reach her. Their in- 
 tentions however were frustrated, for a hard gale came on, 
 threatening every moment to drive them from their anchorage. 
 At length the ship went adrift. The wind blew in such tre- 
 
744 parry's fourth voyage 
 
 mendous gusts as almost to lay the ship on her beam-ends. 
 The situation of the ship was now very precarious, the wind 
 blowing with unabated violence and the ice in a large pack 
 under their lee. A tolerably smooth and open part being 
 noticed the ship was forced into the pack, and after receiving 
 several severe blows, she was carried onwards under all sail 
 and they got half a mile within the pack. 
 
 The wind being to the southward, the ice drifted as far north 
 as it could go, and the ship drove with it to the eastward. On 
 the 16th the pack was cemented together by the frost ; they 
 were now in latitude 80° 4' 13'^, and longitude 12° 35', and 
 felt themselves fortunate in reaching the highest latitude to 
 which they wished to take the ship ; while they felt some 
 anxiety as to their finding a secure harbour for the ship, on 
 their departure for the north. 
 
 To be enabled to form a judgment as to their probability 
 of procuring water without the expence of fuel, they laid a 
 black-painted canvass cloth, and also a piece of black felt, 
 upon the surface of the snow, the temperature of the atmos- 
 phere being from 18" to 53". In two hours these substances 
 sunk half an inch into the snow, but they obtained no water ; 
 they also cut a block of ice from a hummock, at about ten 
 feet above the sea, and pounding and melting it, they found 
 it more free from salt than that which was in their tanks, and 
 had been procured at Hammerfest. As in their journey over 
 the ice, they would probably have to depend on such a resource, 
 it was considered as a satisfactory result. 
 
 On the 19th the ice settled together and in-shore, and sub- 
 jected the ship to such violent pressure as few vessels could 
 have borne, endangering the rudder, and not leaving room 
 any where to drop the lead for sounding. On the 22nd 
 Lieutenant Ross landed with a party of officers and men, and, 
 on an eminence at the eastern end of the beach, they met with 
 two graves, bearing the dates of 1741 and 1762 on some of 
 the stones which covered them. At this time they had no 
 reasonable prospect of getting to any harbour, and the time 
 for setting out on the main object of the expedition was 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. T45 
 
 arrived. The ship seemed secure from any immediate dan- 
 ger, and the delay of a few days at the commencement of the 
 season, short as it was, might be of great importance. Under 
 all circumstances therefore it appeared in the judgment of 
 Captain Parry, that he was now placed in one of those situa- 
 tions in which the Lords of the Admiralty had authorised 
 him to act upon his own judgment. The nature of the ice was 
 most unfavourable, being in loose pieces about fifteen or 
 twenty yards square, and these surrounded by smaller pieces 
 thrown up by the recent pressure upon the edges of the 
 larger, forming an appearance, as the seamen called it, of a 
 stonemason's yard. 'I'he only inducement to proceed under 
 such appearances, was the certainty that floes and fields lay 
 beyond it and the hope that they were not far distant. 
 
 Under these considerations they hoisted out the boats on 
 the morning of the 27th, and having put the things into one 
 of them, endeavoured to get her a little distance from the 
 ship ; but such were the irregularities of the ice, that it was 
 clear that without additional help they would not get on at a 
 greater rate than a mile a day, and in effecting that distance 
 the boats would be liable to great injury, by striking against 
 the angular pieces. Under all circumstances therefore the 
 stores were replaced on board the ship, and Lieutenant Ross 
 was despatched to make observations. He travelled about 
 ten miles, and on his return stated the general appearance of 
 the ice to be much of the same kind as that near the ship. 
 
 'I he extreme difficulty of transporting the boats led Cap- 
 tain Parry to consider, whether he might not more effectually 
 accomplish his design by taking only one boat, but contain- 
 ing the same complement of men. The only objection seemed 
 to be that it would occupy more time in ferrying over 
 pieces of water by making two trips instead of one ; but 
 this objection appeared to be obviated by the increased 
 rate at which they would move when upon the ice, which 
 it was thought would be the case nine days out of ten. In 
 that case all would not be able to sleep in one boat ; but by 
 forming sledges of the Lapland snow shoes, they proposed 
 
746 PARKY 'S FOUHTM VOYACIK 
 
 il ragging Jiearly the whole weight, so that the boat would be 
 lightened of the cargo, and they found that a man could drag 
 about three hundred pounds on a sledge, with more ease than 
 he could drag one hundred pounds weight in a boat. Upon 
 these sledges half the party alternately were to lodge each 
 night under the lee of the boat and to have an awning stretch- 
 ed over them like a sloped roof. 
 
 On the twenty-ninth Lieutenants Foster and Crozier, with 
 a great part of the ship's company, went with a spare travelling 
 boat for the purpose of depositing a quantity of provisions 
 and stores on Red Beach, to be left there as a deposit in case 
 the boats should return to the eastward. Their labour to 
 effect this was very severe, and after working fourteen hours, 
 they were obliged to return to the boats, and renew their at- 
 tempts the succeeding day, although the distance was only 
 about six miles. They had however the opportunity of try- 
 ing what could be done upon a regular and level floe, which 
 lay close to the beach and formed an opinion that they could 
 travel twenty miles a day on ice of that kind. 
 
 The newly suggested plan of taking only one boat, now 
 occupied all their attention. Another week was passing away 
 and no prospect of getting the ship free so as either to proceed 
 farther north or get her into an harbour ; and Captain Parry, 
 after holding a consultation with the officers, resolved on set- 
 ting out ; at this moment however, the ice around them, 
 which had opened at regular hours with the tide, for the past 
 three or four days, set them more rapidly than usual to the 
 eastward, and caused them to shoal the water in a few hours 
 from fifty-two to twenty fathoms, and on the following morning 
 to fourteen fathoms and a half. This new change in their situa- 
 tion required all their attention ; for though the ice occasion- 
 ally opened and shut within about twenty yards of the ship 
 on the in-shore side, the ship herself was firmly imbedded by 
 the turned up masses, which pressed upon her ; and she 
 formed as it were part of a floe which drifted about continu- 
 ally. This circumstance was of little importance while the ship 
 lay in sixty fathoms of water, as she was for the first fourteen 
 
. TO THE NORTH POLE. 747 
 
 (lays of their besetment, and also at a distance of several miles 
 from the land ; but it now became a matter of importance to 
 try whether they could liberate the ship from her present im- 
 bedded state. All hands were in consequence set to work, 
 with handspikes and other tools, to break off the different 
 masses by which she was frozen in, and after three days labo- 
 rious efforts they accomphshed it, although the ship was even 
 then far from being free, there being masses of ice doubled 
 under her which could not be moved without more space for 
 working. 
 
 On the 4th of June, the ice about them slackened very fast, 
 ai]d the ship set rapidly to the eastward. They succeeded in 
 freeing her, and then laid out hawsers for moving her, should 
 she drive into shoal water. This however was not the case, 
 and the water gradually deepened to upwards of sixty fathoms. 
 
 Painful as was the consideration that they had been by 
 these circumstances prevented from pursuing the great object 
 of the voyage, the propriety of it was manifest. Had the ex- 
 ploring party quitted the ship so early, there would not have 
 remained a sufficiency of hands on board the Hecla to have 
 insured her safety. In fact it appeared to be a providential 
 circumstance, that the impracticable nature of the ice for 
 travelling had offered no encouragement for setting out be- 
 fore the appointed time. 
 
 AH hopes of finding a harbour had hitherto rested on their 
 getting the ship to the westward ; but the decided tendency 
 of the ice to drift in a contrary direction, rendered so desirable 
 an object almost impossible to be effected in any reasonable 
 time. A constant darkness, and frequently a dense fog bank 
 in the horizon, was observed as the vessel continued to 
 drive to the eastward, which indicated open water being in that 
 direction ; to which quarter their attention was now particu- 
 larly turned. 
 
 For the two following days they continued closely beset, 
 but still driving to the eastward, across the mouth of VVeyde 
 Bay. In the afternoon of the 6ih, they had driven within 
 five miles of a point of land, seeming to recede considerably 
 
748 parry's fourth voya(;e 
 
 to the eastward, which appeared to answer to the situation of 
 Muscle or Mussell Bay, as laid down in the charts. Captain 
 Varry, anxious to ascertain whether shelter could be found 
 here for the ship, as a lane of water appeared at no great 
 distance from them, hauled a boat over the ice, and then 
 rowed on shore, accompanied by Lieutenant Foster, and some 
 of the other officers, taking a small store of provisions to de- 
 posit there, as a future resource for their party, should they 
 approach that part of the coast on their return. 
 
 They landed at half-past six o'clock, and Mr. Bird remain- 
 ed to bury the provisions, while Captain Parry and Lieute- 
 nant Foster walked, without delay, to the eastward, and on 
 ascending the point, found that there was an indentation in 
 the coast on the other side. They now hurried on with all 
 possible haste to examine the place further, entertaining the 
 most flattering hopes of discovering something like a harbour 
 for the ship ; but great was their mortification, when after 
 three hours excessive walking, on arriving at its head, they 
 found that it was nothing but an open bay, entirely exposed 
 to the inroads of all the northern ice, and consequently quite 
 unfit for the ship. 
 
 The bay was found to be very small, being only about two 
 miles in depth, and lying ten miles to the south-west of 
 Verlegen Hook, having a beach composed of small rounded 
 stones, and covered with great quantities of drift-wood. Some 
 of the trees with their roots attached to them, were not less 
 than eighteen inches in diameter, the smaller ones were very 
 abundant, the whole being of the pine tribe. 
 
 The land to the westward of this coast, is very rugged and 
 acuminated, while that to the eastward assumes a very dif- 
 ferent aspect, being of a more smooth and rounded outline. 
 Large streams of water were discovered rushing down the 
 sides of all the hills, and large ponds of it were seen in every 
 direction, even at the height of three or four hundred feet 
 abpve the sea, the water was running copiously, almost at 
 midnight, and the Saxijraga Oppositifolia was quite out in 
 flower, a circumstance never before known at such a season. 
 
TO THE NORTH POI-E. 749 
 
 not even at Winter Island, which hes nearly fourteen degrees 
 more southward. 
 
 Several rein-deer were observed, but a small one only vi^as 
 killed. There was an extensive floe of land-ice, that filled 
 the upper part of the bay, but which could easily have been 
 cut through, had the place been such as to require it. The 
 variation of the magnetic needle observed upon the ice at 
 this spot was IS"* 10' 80", westerly. 
 
 A considerable space of open water was plainly distinguish- 
 ed from the hills to the eastward of Verlegen Hook, and the 
 party felt confident that if they could have placed the Hecla 
 in perfect security, the boats might be got into this water, 
 which apparently led directly to the northward, and thus 
 have reached the main ice with httle or no difficulty. But 
 painful as such a necessity was, they were compelled to sub- 
 mit tj the necessity of awaiting with inconceivable anxiety 
 fcome favourable chance. They returned to the boat, greatly 
 disappointed, and reached the Hecla early in the morning of 
 the 7th. 
 
 The weather had continued remarkably fine during their 
 three week's stay on the northern coast of Spitzbergen, and 
 with the exception of only two or three hours rain, they had 
 enjoyed a clear and cloudless sky, with scarcely any wind, a 
 warm temperature in the shade, and quite a scorching sun. 
 Excellent water could be procured in great abundance upon 
 the ice after the 1st of June, and by the end of the first week, 
 the floe pieces looked quite blue in many parts, and every 
 where the snow had become too soft to bear a man's weight. 
 
 The ship had drifted more to the eastward, and was within 
 a mile of the spot where they had deposited the provisions 
 on the preceding evening; no ice remained between them 
 and the land, except the floe to which they had so long been 
 attached ; round which they were obliged occasionally to 
 warp, whenever a slackening of (he ice permitted, to prevent 
 their getting too near the rocks. They were compelled to 
 remain in that situation of great suspense and anxiety, until 
 the evening of the 8th, when a breeze which fortunately sprung 
 
 5D 
 
750 pakky's i-ouuth voyage. 
 
 up from the soutliward opened the ice from the point uf the 
 channel to three or four hundred yards, which enabled them to 
 warp into clear water, and round the point in safety ; tliey 
 could make no soundings with twenty fathoms, at one third 
 of a mile from a small rocky islet lying otf the channel. 
 
 The wind had now driven the ice so far off the land, as to 
 enable them to form a clear communication with the open 
 w ater to the eastward ; so that after a besetment of twenty-four 
 days, they obtained a liberation from their close confinement. 
 I'his fortunate and long wished for escape, gave fresh ani- 
 mation to the whole of the party, and they entertained the most 
 confident hopes of making th^ Ilecla perfectly secure in some 
 harbour previous to their departure in the boats, an object 
 which appeared so desirable, and which the events of the pre- 
 ceding days had shown to be indispensably necessary, before 
 they could venture to set out. Tliey then stretched along 
 the low point of Verlegen Hook, in hopes of finding a place 
 of security for the ship, but found some swell coming in from 
 Waygatz Strait, and the wind blowing from the southward, 
 with heavy rain, during the night, they were compelled to lay- 
 to till the weather should become more favourable. The 
 win^d and rain moderating, and finding a clear sea in the di- 
 rection of N.N.E. early in the morning of the 9th, they 
 made sail towards the Seven Islands. 
 
 They discovered a house on the low shore near Verlegen 
 Hook, apparently in a very ruinous state, which they sup- 
 posed to have belonged to some Russian settlers. Asa proof 
 that the heavy or field- ice, seldom, if ever, comes actually 
 home upon these shores, the party found for the first time, 
 heavy giounded ice on the northern coast of Spitzbergen, 
 such as they had formerly been accustomed to find upon all 
 shelving shores ; if otherwise, traces would be left of that 
 kind. With great pleasure they found no other ice attached 
 to the land, except large grounded masses that were along the 
 shore. 
 
 Discoveringland to the eastward, they nauledupforit, towards 
 Brandy wine Bay, with the intention of examining th<it part of 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 751 
 
 the coast for a safe harbour for the ship. The "packed" ice uas 
 four or five miles to the westward of them, the blink bein^ 
 strongly marked, and of a yellowish colour, over the wliole of 
 the northern and western horizons. They stood about six miles 
 to the eastward attv\ o o'clock in the afternoon, when they struck 
 soundings in seventeen, and immediately afterwards in fifteen fa- 
 thoms ; upon this they tacked till a boat could be got a-head to 
 sound, as no land could be seen within many leagues of them, 
 and then kept to the E.N.E. having from ten to fourteen 
 fathoms for several miles in that direction. A quantity of 
 heavy ice, apparently aground, was perceived to the south- 
 eastward, lying around the " Low Island " of Phipps, at a 
 distance of four or five miles, but the weather being thick and 
 hazy, with rain, sleet, and snow, they were obliged to put the 
 ship's head to the north-west, and lie-to ; they drifted to the 
 northward, and soon dropped off into deep water. No bot- 
 tom could be reached with the hand-leads. 
 
 They were now desirous to stand in towards the eastern 
 land, but the weather continuing thick, rendered it very dan- 
 gerous to venture, till 11 o'clock in the morning of the 10th, 
 when they made sail towards Brandywinc Bay ; the wind 
 being then from the W. S. W., or nearly dead upon the shore. 
 In consequence of the weather clearing up soon after one in 
 the afternoon, the eastern land was seen, and grounded ice 
 was soon after discovered off Low Island. Walden's Island 
 appeared plainly to their sight to the north-east. The Bay 
 was, apparently, deeply indented, and seemed likely to afford 
 such nooks as they wanted ; and where so large a space of 
 open water, and consequently some sea, had been exerting 
 its influence for a considerable time, the most sanguine and 
 flattering hopes were entertained by the whole party of 
 having access to the shores, sufficiently near, at least, to 
 enable them to saw into some safe and desirable place of 
 shelter. But how great was their surprise and mortification, 
 when they found that the whole of the coast, from the islands 
 northwards to Black Point, and apparent!}' as far as Walden's 
 Island, was rendered inaccessible by one continuous and heavy 
 
7-52 PAI{RY*S FOURTH VOYAGE 
 
 floe every where attached to the shores, and to the numberless 
 grounded masses about the island, which formed an eminence 
 of six or seven miles in width, in many places, and not less 
 than twelve feet m thickness near the margin ! 
 
 They stood in towards this floe, from the north-wesl ward, 
 but no bottom was found with thirty-five fathoms of line. 
 They then sailed out on the opposite tack for about a mile. 
 They were now within four or five miles from the north-east- 
 ern part of the island, when they suddenly struck soundings 
 in ten fathoms, and which, before they had time to get the 
 ship's head round, they found had decreased to seven fathoms. 
 A boat was immediately lowered, and Captain Parry, on 
 sounding, found that some heavy masses of ice, lying near 
 the ship, and close off the margin of the floe, were aground 
 in six fathoms ; this appeared to be a bank lying by itself at 
 that distance, upon which, probably, tl'.cre was less water to 
 be found as the floe prevented their sounding, more to the 
 eastward about the shoalest part. 
 
 The prospect from the mast-head at this time threw a damp 
 over every sanguine expectation that had been entertained, of 
 their being soon enabled to place the Hecla in perfect security, 
 and willingly would Captain Parry at that period have per- 
 suaded himself if possible, that he would be justified in 
 quitting her at sea ; but such, however, was the nature of 
 the navigation, as regarded the combined difficulties that 
 might arise from ice and a large extent of shoal and unsurvey- 
 ed ground, that even with a full complement of oflficers and 
 men on board, all their strength and exertions would scarce- 
 ly have sufficed, in a single gale of wind, to have kept the 
 ship tolerably secure. The conclusion which they drew was, 
 that thus to have left the ship, vi^ould have been to expose 
 her to imminent peril, rendering it impossible to conjecture 
 where they would find her on their return. 
 
 They now stood to the north-west to gain an offing ; the 
 wind having freshened up from the S.W. by W,, which they 
 expected would have brought the drift ice from the " pack * 
 upon the land, but after having sailed eighteen miles, they 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 753 
 
 came to a quantity of ice that was streaming off from the 
 margin. They tacked at 11 o*clock at night, and found that 
 the estimated latitude, by their run from Low Island, was 
 SO'* 36'. No obstruction whatever appeared at that time to 
 the north and north-west of them, and in all probability, 
 they might have run to 804° had there been any object in 
 their so doing. 
 
 They then determined on taking advantage of the westerly 
 wind, and of the lee afforded them by the ice, and to stand back 
 to the southward towards Waygatz Strait, where a dark pur- 
 ple sky appeared, which they thought indicated clear water, 
 and where, from the clearness of the shores about Verlegen 
 Hook, they entertained great hopes of being able to have 
 access to the land near some harbour ; they kept in that di- 
 rection during the night, but found the ice to be drifting very 
 fast to the eastward. 
 
 On the morning of the 11th, they found great difficulty in 
 getting to the windward of the shoal ground, off the west end 
 of Low Island, the ice having approached so near to it, 
 though forty-eight hours previous to that time, none could be 
 seen from the ship's deck, in a more westerly direction ; when 
 they had proceeded further to the southward, they found 
 that the same effect had been produced in a much more sur- 
 prising degree under all the lands about ihe entrance of Way- 
 gatz Strait, and towards Verlegen Hook ; thus they found it 
 impossible to have reached any of the shores that appeared 
 in sight from their mast-head ; baffled in their intentions they 
 again pushed back to the northward, there being every pro- 
 bability, should the westerly wind continue, of their having 
 no space in which they could keep under way, preferring to 
 be beset in a high latitude, if they should be beset at all. Jn 
 the course of the 12th, the wind had shifted so far to the 
 northward, as to enable them to obtain a sight of the main 
 ice, and, at the same time to examine about Walden Island ; 
 though they entertained little hopes of finding a harbour on 
 so small a spot of land, for there was every probability, should 
 they be so fortunate as to discover a harbour, that this island 
 
754 PAHUY's fourth VOYAGl^ 
 
 would form one of the stations to whicli provisions and infor- 
 mation could be carried, as an assistance to their party on 
 their return from the northward. 
 
 After they had beaten through much ice, of the drift or 
 broken kind, that had collected together for the last two days, 
 they at length got into 'an open space of water in-shore, about 
 six miles to the northward of Low Island, and on the morn- 
 ing of the 13th, they stretched in towards Walden Island, 
 around which they found, a considerable quantity of fixed ice, 
 which entirely enveloped the inner or eastern end of the island. 
 
 They had scarcely seen the blue sky, ever since they had 
 got into open water, and had experienced fog, sleet, or snow 
 during almost all that time. They were still at a loss to know 
 the position of the main ice, while the nature of that through 
 which they had been sailing for so many miles, was very un- 
 favourable to the progress of boats over it, whenever it should 
 become packed. 
 
 On the 16lh of June, Walden Island being clear of the 
 loose ice, they sailed towards it, and when within two miles 
 observed that about half that space was occupied by land ice ; 
 however, being desirous of a better view than the crow's-nest 
 afforded, and also of depositing a supply of provisions, Captain 
 Parry and Lieutenant Foster landed upon the ice, and walked 
 over about three quarters of a mile of high and rugged hum- 
 mocks to the shore. Ascending about three hundred feet, 
 they had a view of the Seven Islands, and of land beyond 
 them far to the eastward, and here the whole sea was covered 
 with one unbroken land-floe attached to all the shores, ex- 
 tending each way as far as the eye could reach. This pros- 
 pect destroyed every hope of finding a harbour among the 
 Seven Islands, and therefore after depositing the provisions 
 which were to be left here for a supply to the boats on their 
 return, they returned to the ship. 
 
 Observing that the sea was perfectly clear to the northward, 
 they now stood for Little Table Island, hoping that the rock 
 off its northern end might afford shelter for the ship. Lieu 
 tenant Ross was sent on shore, but could find no place of 
 
TO THE XOUTH POLE. ,DL> 
 
 siielter, and having deposited another small store of provisions, 
 returned. This was the only island round which a ship at 
 this time might sail, all the others being enclosed by barriers 
 of ice. 
 
 The 17th of June had now arrived and no prospect appear- 
 ed of getting the Hecla into harbour ; and every day's experi- 
 ence shewed that it would be an act of great rashness, to 
 attempt to quit her in her present situation, which, even with 
 all her officers and men, was one of great precariousness. 
 Captain Parry therefore thought it his duty to call oRicially 
 on his officers for their opinion, which he found to agree en- 
 tirely with his own. 
 
 On the evening of the 18th of June, while standing-in for 
 the high land to the eastward of Verlegen Hook, they per- 
 ceived from the crow's-nest, a low point which might possibly 
 afford some shelter for the ship ; and on the following morn- 
 ing, accompanied by Lieutenant Ross, Captain Parry |)roceed- 
 ed to examine it. They found it to be a considerable bay, 
 affording excellent land-locked anchorage, and sufficiently 
 clear of ice to permit the ship to enter. Having sounded the 
 entrance to bring her in, the main object of their enterprise 
 now appeared within their grasp and all felt stimulated lo new 
 exertions. The ship was towed and warped in with great 
 alacrity, and on the 20th they dropped anchor in Hccla Cove, 
 in thirteen fathoms, and made last to the land-ice, which 
 still filled all the upper part of the bay. After resting a few 
 hours they proceeded to saw a canal a quarter of a mile in 
 length, through which the ship was removed into a better 
 situation and properly secured. On the following morning, 
 they hauled the launch up on the beach, and Captain Parry 
 ordered such stores and provisions to be landed as would 
 render the party who were now to leave the ship and proceed 
 in the boats, sufficient resources, if on their return they should 
 find the ship driven to sea by the ice. Lieutenant Foster, 
 upon whom the command of the Hecla would now devolve, 
 was directed to send notice in the coui-se of the summer to 
 the various stations where provisions were deposited, staling 
 
756 PARILV'S FOURTH VOYAfiE 
 
 the situation of the ship and any other information which 
 might be useful for Captain Parry's guidance, on returning 
 from the north. 
 
 Every thing being now completed, Captain Parry and his 
 party left the ship with the two boats, which they named the 
 Enterprise, and the Endeavour, Mr. Beverly was attaclied 
 to the boat under the direction of Captain Parry and Lieute- 
 nant Ross, accompanied by Mr. Bird, was attached to the 
 other. Lieutenant Crozier accompanied them in one of the 
 ship's cutters, for the purpose of carrying some of the weight 
 as far as Walden Island, together with a store of provisions 
 to be deposited on Low Island, as an intermediate station be- 
 tween Walden Island and the ship. As it would be necessary 
 not to prolong their return beyond the end of August, they 
 took only seventy-one days provisions, which, including the 
 boats, and every other article, amounted to two hundred and 
 sixty-eight pounds a man ; and as the rugged nature of the ice 
 rendered it improbable that either the rein-deer, or the snow- 
 shoes would prove of any service, they gave up the idea of 
 taking them, and constructed out of the snow-shoes four ex- 
 cellent sledges for dragging a part of their baggage over the 
 ice; and these proved of invaluable service to them, while the 
 rest of the things just mentioned would only have been an 
 incumbrance. 
 
 Havins: received the usual salutation of three cheers, from 
 those whom they left behind, they paddled through a quan- 
 tity of loose ice at the entrance of the bay, and then steered 
 for the western part of Low Island, which they reached at 
 half-past two on the morning of the 22nd. 
 
 On the following day, having deposited the provisions 
 which were to be left here, they set off at four o'clock in the 
 morning, paddhng watch and watch, to give the people a little 
 rest. ^Vhe weather was quite calm, a good deal of ice was seen 
 about the island, and a thick fog coming on, they were obliged 
 to grope their way for several hours to get clear of it. They 
 saw a great number of walrusses lying in herds upon the ice, 
 and on observing the boats, they plunged into the water 
 
TO THE NOBTH POLE. 757 
 
 to follow them. The sound which they utter is something 
 between bellowing and very loud snorting, which together 
 with their grim, bearded countenances, made them appear 
 rather formidable enemies to contend with, but as they never 
 make the first attack, the party deemed it advisable not to 
 molest them, for they would soon have destroyed the boats, if 
 one of them had been wounded. 
 
 After they had rested a few hours, and removed the pro- 
 visions and other articles from Lieutenant Crozier's boat, they 
 parted with him and set off for Little Table Island at three 
 o'clock in the afternoon of the twenty-third ; as they antici- 
 pated finding much open water in that neighbourhood in tlie 
 autumn, Captain Parry sent directions to Lieutenant Foster, 
 to deposit a spare boat at Walden Island in time for his 
 return, in case any accident should happen to make them 
 require it. 
 
 They found that the land-ice continued to adhere to the 
 Seven Islands ; along the margin of which they rowed a part 
 of their way to Little Table Island, where they arrived at 
 ten o'clock at night. They examined and re-secured the pro- 
 visions that had been left on shore, having found that their 
 depot had been disturbed by the bears. The weather at this 
 time being calm and clear, and the prospect to the northward 
 very favourable, and very little loose ice to be seen, they took 
 their final leave, at half-past ten, of the Spitzbergen shores, 
 as they hoped, for at least two months. They steered due 
 north, and made very good progress. 
 
 As their plan of travelling was nearly the same throughout 
 this excursion after they entered upon the ice, it may be 
 advisable to give some account of their usual mode of pro- 
 ceeding. It was their intention to travel wholly by night, 
 and to rest by day, there being constant day-light in those 
 regions during the summer season. The advantages of that 
 plan, which was occasionally deranged by circumstances, con- 
 sisted first, in their avoiding the intense and oppressive glare 
 from the snow dui ing the time of the sun's greatest altitude, 
 io as to prevent, in some degree, the painful inflammation in 
 
 SE 
 
75S PAHRY's fourth VOYAeE 
 
 the eyes, called " snow-blindness,*' winch is common in all 
 snowy countri.es. They also thus enjoyed a greater warmth 
 during the hours of rest, and had a better chance of drying 
 their clothes ; besides which, they derived a great advantaoe 
 from the snow being harder at night, which rendered it better 
 for travelling. The only disadvantage attending that plan 
 was, that the fogs were somewhat more frequent, and more thick 
 by night than by day ; in other respects, the temperature 
 underwent but little variation during the twenty-four hours. 
 Their travelling by night and sleeping by day so completely 
 inverted the natural order of things, that it was sometimes 
 difficult to persuade themselves of the reality. Even Captain 
 Parry himself, and the officers, who were all furnished with 
 pocket chronometers, could not always bear in mind at what 
 part of the twenty-four hours they had arrived ; and sev<3rai 
 of the men positively declared that they never knew night 
 from day during the whole excursion. 
 
 They rose in the evening, and always commenced their 
 day with prayers ; after wliich they took oft' their fur sleep- 
 ing-dresses, and put on those for travelling ; the former being 
 made of camblet lined with racoon skins, and the latter of 
 strong blue box-cloth. They always put on the same stock- 
 ings and boots for travelling in ; whether they had become 
 dry during the day or not ; but it mostly happened that they 
 were either wet or hard frozen. But that indeed was of no 
 consequence, beyond the discomfort of first putting them on, 
 as they were sure to get thoroughly wet soon after commenc- 
 ing their journey ; while on the other handj it was of 
 vital importance for them to keep dry things for sleeping in. 
 After they were *' rigged " for travelling, and breakfasted 
 upon warm cocoa and biscuit, they stowed the things in the 
 boats and on the sledges, to secure them from the wet, and 
 then set off for their day's journey. They usually travelled 
 for about five hours, then stopped an hour or two to dine, 
 and again travelled four, five, and sometimes six hours, accord- 
 ing to circumstances ; after which, they halted for the night, 
 ais they called it, though it was usually early in the morning, 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 759 
 
 and hauled their boats upon the largest surface of ice, which 
 happened to be near them, in order to avoid the danger of its 
 breaking up by coming in contact with other masses, and also 
 to prevent drift as much as possible. They then placed the 
 boats alongside of each other, with their sterns to the wind, 
 and the snow or wet was cleared out of them, and the sails, 
 supported by the bamboo masts and three paddles, placed 
 over them as awnings, an entrance being left at the bow. 
 The men then put on dry stockings and fur boots, after which 
 they set about the necessary repairs of the boats, sledges, or 
 clothes ; and, after having served up the provisions for the 
 succeeding day, they went to supper. Most of the officers and 
 men then smoked their pipes, which served to dry the boats 
 and awnings very much. This part of the twenty-four hours 
 was their only time of enjoyment ; the men told their stories, 
 and ** fought all their battles o'er again," and the labours of 
 the day, unsuccessful as .they had often been, were forgotten. 
 A regular watch was set during their resting-time, to look out 
 for bears, or for the ice breaking up, as well as to attend to 
 the drying of the clothes, each man alternately taking the 
 duty for one hour. They then concluded the day with 
 prayers ; and lay down to sleep, in their fur dresses, with a 
 degree of comfort which few persons would imagine possible, 
 under such circumstances. After they had slept seven hours, 
 the man appointed to boil the cocoa roused them, when it was 
 ready, by the sound of a bugle, and they then commenced 
 their day m the manner before described. 
 
 The allowance of provisions for each man per day was as 
 follows : — 
 
 Biscuit 10 ounces. 
 
 Pemmican 9 " 
 
 Sweetened Cocoa Powder 1 " to make one pnit. 
 
 Rum 1 gill. 
 
 Tobacco 3 ounces per week. 
 
 Their fuel consisted entirely of spirits of wine, of which two 
 pints formed their daily allowance. They cooked their cocoa 
 in an iron boilei'.over a shallow iron lamp^ with seven wicks. 
 
760 parry's fourth voyage. 
 
 One pint of the spirits of wine was found sufficient for pre- 
 paring their breakfasts, that is, for heating twenty-eight pints 
 of water. When the weather was calm and fair, this quantity 
 of fuel brought it to the boiling point in about an hour 
 and a quarter. This made a very comfortable meal to per- 
 sons situated as they were. Such, with very little variation, 
 was their regular routine during the whole of their excursion. 
 
 On Sunday, the ^^th, at ten o'clock at night, they set off 
 on their first journey over the ice. They found it very slow 
 and laborious travelling ; the pieces of ice, being of small 
 extent and very rugged, obliged them to make three journies, 
 and sometimes four, with the boats and baggage, and to launch 
 several times across narrow pools of water : every individual 
 however exerted himself to the very utmost, with the hope of 
 sooner reaching the main or field ice. They stopped to dine 
 at five o'clock in the morning of the SSth^ having made about 
 two miles and a half of northing ; after which they again set 
 forward, and proceeded till eleven, when they halted to rest. 
 
 They set out at half- past nine in the evening ; but found 
 their way to lie over nothing but small loose rugged masses 
 of ice, separated by little pools of water, wliich obliged them 
 constantly to launch and haul up the boats, each of which 
 operations required them to be unloaded and occupied nearly 
 a quarter of an hour. On the morning of the 26th, it rained 
 very hard, which obliged thenni to take shelter under the 
 awnings. But the weather improving at six, they again 
 moved forward, and travelled till a quarter past eleven, when 
 they hauled up the boats upon the only large floe piece that 
 appeared in sight. 
 
 They pursued their journey at half-past nine in the evening, 
 but the weather being very thick^ and the ice much in mo- 
 lion, made it very dangerous to cross with loaded boats ; and 
 when they came to the margin of the floe-piece on which 
 they had slept, seeing no road by which they could proceed 
 with safety^ they preferred remaining where they were, to the 
 risk of being driven back to the southward, on one of the 
 smaller masses. They therefore halted at midnight, having 
 
TO THE KORTH POLEr 761 
 
 waded three quarters of a mile through water, from two to five 
 inches deep upon the ice. 
 
 On the 28th, at seven o'clock in the morning, they came 
 to a floe, covered with high and rugged liummocks, which 
 opposed a formidable obstacle to their progress. These fol- 
 lowed each other in successive tiers, so that they had no sooner 
 crossed one line of hummocks, than another presented itself. 
 Over these it was with great difficulty that they hauled the 
 boats, and the weather becoming thick, so as to prevent their 
 seeing across the succeeding tier, they were compelled to re- 
 linquish their further efforts. In some cases the boats were 
 carried up in a perpendicular direction ; and in one instance 
 James Parker (one of the seamen) received a severe contusion 
 on his back, by the boat falling upon him from a hummock. 
 It is deserving of remark, that, notwithstanding the boats 
 received many heavy blows, the nautical and astronomical 
 instruments were so placed upon a wooden platform in the 
 after locker, on strong springs of whalebone, that all of them 
 escaped being injured. 
 
 They proceeded onwards under similar circumstances to the 
 1st. of July, when on observation they found their latitude to 
 be 81" 30' 41". After crossing several pieces of ice, they got 
 into a good " lead" of water, four or five miles in lengtli ; 
 two or three of which occurred under the lee of a floe, being 
 the second they had seen that deserved the name. They 
 then passed over four or five small floes, and crossed the 
 pools of water that lay between them. The ice was less 
 broken up, and tolerably level ; but they found from six to 
 eighteen inches of soft snow upon it in every part, which ren- 
 dered their travelling very fatiguing, and obliged them to 
 make two, and sometimes three, journies with their loads. 
 They at length found it absolutely necessary to lighten the 
 boats as much as they possibly could, by putting the bread- 
 bags upon the sledges, on account of the " runners" of the boats 
 smking so much deeper into the snow ; but the bread ran a 
 great risk of being wetted by this plan. 
 
 Captain Parry and Lieutenant Ross generally went a-head 
 
76'^ pai?uy'.s fourth voyac;e 
 
 as soon as they landed on a floe piece, to select the easiest 
 road ; Messrs Beverly and Bird following them with the 
 sledges ; by which means the snow was much trodden down, 
 and the road thus greatly improved for the boats. As soon as 
 they had arrived at the end of a floe, or come to any difficult 
 place, they mounted one of the highest hummocks of ice 
 nearest to them, (many of which were from fifteen to twenty- 
 five feet above the sea, in order that they might obtain a 
 better view ; but nothing could exceed the dreariness which 
 such a view presented to them. They had nothing but ice 
 and sky for their eyes to rest upon ; and even the latter was 
 often secluded from their view by dense and dismal fogs. Por 
 want of variety, the most trifling circumstances engaged a 
 more than ordinary share of their attention ; as a passing gull, 
 a mass of ice of unusual form, and other trifling occurrences, 
 which, at other times, they would have regarded as insignifi- 
 cant, became objects which their situation and circumstances 
 magnified into ridiculous importance. It was cheering for them 
 to turn from such scenes of inanimate desolation, to their two 
 little boats in the distance, to see the moving figures of the men 
 winding with their sledges among the hummocks, and again 
 to hear the sound of human voices breaking through the 
 stillness of the icy wilderness. In some cases, Captain Parry 
 and Lieutenant Ross took separate routes to try the ground, 
 which kept them almost continually floundering among deep 
 snow and water. Phey then brought the sledges up as far as 
 liad been explored, and returned for the boats ; each boat's 
 crew, when the road was tolerable, dragged their own, and 
 tlie officers took an equal share of the labour with the men. 
 Phey were obliged to proceed in this manner, nine miles out 
 of every ten that they travelled over the ice ; for they seldom 
 met with a surface that was sufficiently hard and level lo 
 drag all their loads at one journey, and in a great many in- 
 stances, during the first fortnight they had to make three 
 journies which their boats and baggage ; that is, to traverse 
 the same road five times over. 
 
 Phev halted at eleven o'clock at night, after having 1 raver- 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 763 
 
 sod from ten to eleven miles, and made good seven and a half 
 in a N. by W. direction. They again set forward at ten in 
 the morning of the 2nd, but the sun being oppressively warm, 
 together with the glare from the snow, produced so painful 
 a sensation in most of their eyes, as obliged them to halt 
 siiortly after to avoid being blinded. The men took advan- 
 tage of this warm weather to wash themselves, and to mend and 
 dry their clothes ; and then set out at half-past three ill the 
 afternoon. They found the snow so soft as to take them up 
 to their knees at almost every other step, and frequently still 
 deeper ; so that they w^ere often five minutes together in 
 moving a single boat, with all their united strength. Finding 
 it impossible to proceed under such circumstances, they 
 determined, by degrees, to fall into their night-travelling 
 again, from which they had insensibly deviated. They 
 halted at half-past five, the weather being clear and warm, and 
 many of the people's eyes were begmning to fail them. They 
 did not set out again till after midmight, as they thought the 
 snow would require some time to harden after so warm a day ; 
 but, to their great disappointment, they found the snow stiil 
 fo be very soft, which rendered their travelling very fatiguing. 
 They at first lost their way across a number of small loose 
 pieces, most of which were from five to twenty yards apart, 
 and just sufliciently separated to give them all the labour of 
 launching and hauling up the boats, without the advantage 
 of their making any progress by water ; while they crossed, 
 in other instances, from mass to mass, by laying the boats 
 over as bridges, by which the men and the baggage pas&ed. 
 By these means they reached a floe, about a mile in length, 
 in a northern direction ; but the labour that was required to 
 traverse it was very great. They found the average depth 
 of snow upon the level parts to be about five inches, under 
 which lay water four or five inches deep ; but, the moment 
 that they approached a hummock, the depth to which they 
 sank increased to three or four feet, which rendered it diffi- 
 cult for them, at times, to obtain a sufficient footing for one 
 leg before they were enabled to extricate the other. The 
 
764 parry's fourth voyage. 
 
 pools of fresh water had now become very large, some of 
 them being a quarter of a mile in length, and the depth above 
 their knees, which prevented them from taking the sledges, 
 for fear of wetting the provisions ; but they preferred tran- 
 sporting the boats across them, notwithstanding the severe 
 cold of the snow water, as the bottom was harder for the 
 *' runners" to slide upon. In one instance, they were two 
 hours proceeding a distance of one hundred yards on this 
 kind of road. 
 
 They halted at half- past six in the morning to dine ; and 
 after they had emptied their boots and wrung their stockings, 
 which, to them, was like putting on dry ones, they set out, 
 and at length got into a " lane " of water about a mile and a 
 quarter long, in a N.N.E. direction. They halted for the 
 night, almost exhausted with their laborious day's work, at 
 half an hour before midnight, having made a distance good 
 to the northward not exceeding two miles and a quarter. 
 They allowed themselves this night a hot supper, consisting 
 of a pint of soup per man, made of an ounce of pemmican 
 each, and eight or ten birds which they had killed ; and 
 which afforded them a luxury, which none, but those who 
 have been placed in similar situations, can duly appreciate. 
 
 They rose and breakfasted at nine o'clock in the evening ; 
 but the weather had gradually become so inclement and thick, 
 with snow, sleet, and a fresh breeze from the eastward, that 
 it would have been impossible for them to have seen their 
 way, or have avoided getting wet through, if they had moved ; 
 they were therefore compelled to remain under cover ; and 
 in consequence of the snow having soon after changed to 
 heavy rain, and the wind being increased to afresh gale, they 
 were unavoidably detained till half past seven in the evening 
 of the 4th, when they found, on setting out, that there was 
 nothing but loose drift ice for them to haul over ; nor could 
 they discover, from the highest hummock, a single floe, much 
 less a field, towards which to direct their course. They 
 crossed two or three small floe-pieces, all less than a quarter 
 of a mile in extent, upon which they found hummocks occur* 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 765 
 
 ring ridge after ridge, with only fifty or sixty yards of level 
 ice between them : they also found that the rain had pro- 
 duced a greater effect than the sun, in softening the snow. 
 Captain Parry and Lieutenant Ross, when performing their 
 pioneering duty, were frequently so beset by the snow, that 
 sometimes after having tried in vain to extricate their legs, 
 they were obliged to sit quietly down for a short time to rest 
 themselves, previous to making another attempt ; and the 
 men, in dragging the sledges, were often under the necessity 
 of crawling upon all-fours, to make any progress at all. 
 Snow-shoes would have been rather an incumbrance than of 
 service to them, as the surface of the ice was so irregular. 
 Lapland shoes, or KamoogaSy had been hitherto used by 
 them for walking in, which were found to be excellent for 
 dry snow ; but there being so much water upon the ice, thev 
 now substituted the Esquimaux boots, which had been made 
 in Greenland (and obtained from thence, through the kind 
 means of Lieutenant Holboll, of the Danish navy,) expressly 
 for their use, and which they found to be far superior to any 
 others for this kind of travelling. Just before they halted, 
 at six o'clock in the morning of the 5th, the ice at the margin 
 of the floe broke, while the men were landing the provisions 
 out of the boats ; and a bag of cocoa narrowly escaped being 
 lost, which fell overboard, but fortunately rested on a tongue 
 of ice ; the cocoa however did not suffer the slightest 
 injury, as the bag was made of Mackintosh's waterproof 
 canvass, which invaluable manufacture consists in applying a 
 solution of elastic gum, or caoutchouc, between two parts of 
 canvass, which renders it both durable and water-tight. 
 
 They rose at five o^'clock in the afternoon, but no land 
 appeared in sight, from the highest hummocks, and nothing 
 but broken loose ice could be seen in any direction. They 
 hauled across several pieces, which were scarcely fit to bear the 
 weight of the boats, but in such cases they used the precau- 
 tion of dividing their baggage, that they might not, in case 
 the ice should break or turn over, lose all at once. As they 
 proceeded farther, they found the ice to be much more broken 
 
 P. V. 33. 5F 
 
766 TAEUY'S FttURTH VOYAGE 
 
 than it was since they had first entered the **pack." The labour 
 that was required to drag the boats over the luimmocks, and 
 from one mass to another, was so great, that they wereobhged 
 to have recourse to what seamen call a *' bowline-haur for 
 many minutes together ; which so exhausted the men, that 
 they were often obliged to sit down and take breath. They 
 stopped at midnight to dine, and obtained the meridian altitude, 
 and then passed over a floe full of hummocks, a mile and a 
 half in length ; but any kind of floe was of great relief to 
 them after the constant difficulty they had experienced in 
 passing over loose ice. i'hey had not for several days obser- 
 ved any ice covered with mud or soil, called by the sailors 
 *< dirty ice," which they had frequently met with during the 
 first week after they had left the open water. They often 
 noticed parts of the ice, which, at a distance, appeared of an 
 iron-rust colour ; but on coming near it, and taking up sonic 
 in their hands, they could detect nothing with the magnifying 
 glass. 
 
 They had now several hours of very beautiful weather; but 
 a thick fog, which came on early in the morning of the sixth, 
 obliged them to halt at five o'clock, having got to the end of 
 a floe, and only made good two miles and a half to the norths 
 ward. The men were greatly fatigued, and an extra ounce of 
 bread and one of pennnican were served for their supper ; an 
 addition to the original allowance which was frequently 
 obliged to be made, after this time, to prevent their going to 
 bed hungry. They again set out at half-past six in the even- 
 ing ; but the fog continued very thick, and the ice of the 
 same broken kind as before ; till, towards the end of their 
 day's journey, Jthey landed on the only level floe that they 
 had met with, about three quarters of a mile in length ; but, 
 being almost clear of snow, it afforded such good travelling, 
 that although they were much fatigued at the time, they were 
 enabled to hgul the boats and all the luggage across it at one 
 journey, at the rate of about two miles an hour. They 
 halted at the northern margin at five o'clock in the morning 
 of the 7th. The prospect beyond them was very unfavour 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 767 
 
 able ; and at eight o'clock in the evening, when they launched 
 the boats, there was not a piece of large or level ice to be 
 seen in a nofthern direction. After an hour, however, they 
 arrived at a very difficult pasSj which required all their strength, 
 as well as care, to accomplish. They had first to launch the 
 boats into the water over a high and rugged margin, and then 
 to haul them across a number of irregular and ill-connected 
 masses, being obliged, sometimes, to make bridges of them 
 for the conveyance of themselves and their provisions ; and 
 at one time they had to cut a passage through a ridge of 
 hummocks which lay across their path. They were thus more 
 than two hours in proceeding a distance not exceeding one 
 hundred and fifty yards. Notwithstanding these discourag- 
 ing difficulties, the men laboured with great cheerfulness and 
 good-will, being animated with the hope of soon reaching the 
 more continuous body, which had been considered as compos- 
 ing the '* main-ice,'* to the northward of Spitzbergen, and 
 which Captain Lutwidge, about the same meridian, and 
 more than one degree to the southward, in Phipps's Voyage 
 towards the North Pole, describes as '*one continued plane 
 of smooth, unbroken ice, bounded only by the horizon." 
 
 With little variation of circumstances they still continued 
 their journey. On the thirteenth the ice over which they had 
 to travel was more broken up, and more difficult to pass over 
 than ever. Much of it also was so thin as to be extremely 
 dangerous for the provisions, iand often excited the most acute 
 feelings, when they saw their provisions lying on a decaved 
 sheet, having holts quite through it in many parts, and which 
 the smallest motion among the surrounding masses might 
 have instantly broken in pieces. There ^^as however no 
 choice except the more riigged hummocks, which cost ten 
 times the labour to pass over. On mounting one of the 
 highest of these, they could discover nothing to the north- 
 ward but the same broken and irregular surface, and they 
 now began to doubt whether they should meet with the solid 
 fields of unbroken ice, which the accounts of former navigators 
 
768 PAIlilYS FOURTH VOYAGE 
 
 ltd them to expect in a much lower latitude than that to 
 which they had now arrived. 
 
 They stopped to dhie at half an hour past midnight on the 
 fourteenth, after more than five hours of unceasing labour, in 
 the course of which time they had only accomplished a mile 
 and a half due north, though they had traversed from three 
 to four miles, and walked at least ten miles, having made 
 three journies a great part of the way ; launching and haul- 
 ing up the boats four times, and having dragged them over 
 twenty five separate pieces of ice. After dinner they con- 
 tinued the same kind of travelling. In crossing from mass 
 to mass, several of which v^^ere separated ^bout half the length 
 of their sledges, the officers were statiorred at the most dlffi 
 Cult places to see that no precaution was omitted which could 
 Insure the safety of the provisions. Only one individual was 
 allowed to jump over at a time, or to stand near either mar- 
 gin, least their weight should be too great ; and when three 
 or four had separately crossed, the sledge was cautiously 
 drawn up to the edge, and the word being given, the men 
 suddenly ran off with the ropes, so as not to allow time for its 
 falling in if the ice should break. In more instances than 
 one they were obliged to have recourse to the very hazardous 
 expedient of ferrying their provisions across a narrow pool 
 bi' water, upon a small piece of ice, the situation being such 
 that the boats could not be used. Wherever the boats could 
 J)ossibly be hauled across with the provisions in them, this 
 t^as preferred as the safest mode of proceeding ; but, on one 
 occasion, while dragging one of the boats, the ice on which 
 the boat rested began to sink, and then turned over on one 
 side, almost upsetting the boat with the provisions in her ; 
 but several of the men jumped instantly upon the ice, and 
 by their Weight restored the balance. At six in the morning, 
 having, after much exertion, reached a small floe, they halted. 
 They were preparing at six in the evening again to set for- 
 wards, but there came on so hard and incessant a rain that it 
 was impossible to proceed without a complete drenching. 
 It continued for twenty-one hours, sometimes falling \^ith 
 
to THE NORTH POLfi. 769 
 
 great violence and in large drops, such as no one of the party 
 had ever seen in the polar regions. At length it held up a 
 little and they set forward on their journey. In proceeding 
 over the floe on which they had slept, they found it, at dif- 
 ferent intervals, level and hummocky ; the former affording 
 sufficiently good travelling to convey all their baggage easily 
 in one journey, one boat's crew occasionally assisting the 
 other a few yards at particular parts ; but the hummocks 
 cost great labour, nothing but a bowline haul being sufficient 
 with all the hands to get the boats across them. At intervals 
 also heavy rains came on, so that notwithstanding they took 
 shelter as much as possible under the awnings, their upper 
 clothing was thoroughly w^et. Although they had much 
 laborious travelling, they considered themselves fortunate in 
 hitting upon a floe three miles in length, from south to north, 
 although it was occasionally rugged. In hauling one of the 
 boats over a tongue of ice, where she only partly floated, her 
 bottom-boards were raised by the pressure against the ice 
 below, but so strong and elastic was their construction that 
 she did not suffer the slightest external injury. 
 
 The floe on which they stopped to dine on the sixteenth, 
 was not more than four feet thick, and its extent half a mile 
 square, and on this they carried all their loads at one journey. 
 The weather being fine, they had the opportunity of drying 
 all their clothes. The seventeenth being one of the days on 
 which the Royal Society of Edinburgh proposed to institute 
 a series of simultaneous meteorological observations, they 
 commenced an hourly register of every phenomenon which 
 came under their notice throughout the day. At the con- 
 clusion of their journey this day, being more fatigued than 
 usual, they allowed themselves a mess of hot cocoa for supper. 
 
 Proceeding on their journey at eight in the evening they 
 found their road to lie over some of the most broken ice they 
 had yet encountered, obliging them to make bridge after 
 bridge with the boats almost every thirty or forty yards ; the 
 prospect to the northward became more discouraging, nothing 
 but loose and small pieces of ice being in sight, over which 
 
770 
 
 PARRY S FOURTH VOYAGE 
 
 the boats were dragged almost entirely by a standinor pull. 
 At the conclusion of their day's work, the men were so ex- 
 hausted that it was necessary to give them another hot mess 
 of cocoa. They had also the good fortune to kill a small 
 seal, which afforded them in its blubber fuel to cook their 
 messes as well as meat for their repast. 
 
 'I'heir way still lay over small loose masses, to which they 
 now became so accustomed as scarcely to expect any other ; 
 it being evident that they were not improving in this respect 
 as they advanced northwards. At one difficult crossing they 
 liad to convey the sledges and provisions one way and to haul 
 the boats over another way. One of the masses over which 
 the boats came began to roll about while one of the boats was 
 upon it, giving reason to apprehend its upsetting, which 
 must have been attended with serious consequences ; for- 
 tunately however they got the boat past it in safety, not how- 
 ever without several of the men falling overboard in conse- 
 quence of the long jumps they had to make, and the edges 
 breaking with their weight. They had a narrow escape also 
 in launching one of the boats from an awkward-shaped mass, 
 which brought her gunwale close to the water, and there kept 
 her in a very dangerous situation, without their being able to 
 move her one way or the other, while at the same time the 
 loose ice was in motion. 
 
 On the 21st, they had a narrow and most providential 
 escape, the floe having broken under the weight of the boats 
 and sledges, and the latter were nearly lost through the ice. 
 Some of the men went completely through, and one of them 
 was only held up by his drag-belt being attached to a sledge 
 which was placed on firmer ice. Fortunately the bread had 
 been kept in the boats, or the additional weight must 
 have sunk the sledges and probably some of the men with 
 them. They had the good fortune to kill another seal 
 this day, which proved a welcome addition to both their pro- 
 visions and their fuel, which enabled them to allow each man 
 a pint of warm water at supper, each man making his own 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 771 
 
 soup, from such a portion of his bread and pcmmican as he 
 could save from dinner. 
 
 On the 22nd, they had the best weather for travelhng 
 which had occurred during the journey ; for though they had 
 to launch and haul up the boats frequently, (an operation 
 which necessarily occupied much time,) yet the floes being 
 large and tolerably level, and some good lanes of water occur- 
 ring, they made about eleven miles in a N.N.E. direction, and 
 passed over a distance of about seventeen miles. They halted 
 after more than twelve hours travelling, by which the men 
 were greatly fatigued ; but the idea of having made a good 
 progress recompensed them. The ice over which they had 
 travelled was by far the largest and heaviest they met with 
 during the whole journey, and indeed was the only occasion 
 on which they met with any thing answering the descrip' 
 tions given of the main ice. However they were not fields of 
 ice, for in no instance had they any difficulty in seeing the 
 margin of them by mounting a tolerably high hummock. It 
 was however a great satisfaction to find the ice improve, and 
 encouraged them to hope that their future progress would be 
 more rapid. On taking an observation, however, they found 
 their latitude to be 82* 43' 5', which was not quite four miles 
 to the northward of their observation on the preceding 
 day, instead of eleven which they had travelled. They de- 
 termined however to continue their exertions, and on setting 
 out in the evening soon found their expectation of reaching 
 better ice was not realized, for the floe on which they slept 
 was so full of hummocks that it took six hours to cross it, 
 although in a straight line it did not exceed two miles and a 
 half. 
 
 On the 24th, in passing over a difficult road, composed 
 of small and rugged ice, Lieutenant Ross received a severe 
 squeeze in exerting himself to drag his boat along ; and Mr. 
 Beverly at first apprehended, from the numbness and sickness 
 which ensued, that his spine was affected, but happily no 
 such bad consequences followed. So small was the ice now 
 around them that they were obliged to halt for the night, on 
 
772 parry's fourth voyage 
 
 the 25ih, at two in the morning, being the only piece in sight 
 in any direction on which they could venture to trust their 
 boats while they slept. Snow came on soon after they halted, 
 and about two inches had fallen when they again moved and 
 continued their journey in this inclement weather for three 
 hours, hauling from piece to piece, and not making more than 
 three quarters of a mile progress, till their clothes and bread 
 bags became wet and the snow fell so thick that they could 
 not see their way. It became therefore necessary to halt, 
 and they housed just in good time ; for the wind soon after 
 freshened to a gale at W.N.W. with sleet and rain, and a most 
 inclement night succeeded. On taking observations they 
 found that for the last five days, they had been struggling 
 against a southerly drift exceeding four miles a day. 
 
 It had now become evident that the prospect of success in 
 travelling to the northward was very faint. However they 
 were anxious to reach the highest latitude their means would 
 allow. For the last few days the eighty-third parallel was 
 the extent of their hopes ; but even this hope had been greatly 
 weakened, as the northerly wind drove them to the south- 
 ward during the hours of sleep, nearly as much as they gain^ 
 ed by twelve hours of labour. Had their success been at all 
 proportionate to their efforts. Captain Parry had purposed to 
 proceed a few days beyond the middle of the period, for w hich 
 he was provided, trusting to the resources he expected to find 
 at Table Island. But their efforts had been attended with 
 so little success, that it seemed to be only incurring useless 
 fatigue to both officers and men, to continue the attempt any 
 longer. He determined therefore to return, and gave the 
 people one entire day's rest, to wash and mend their clothes 
 previous to their setting out. Their distance from the Heclawas 
 only one hundred and seventy-two miles in a N.W. direction ; 
 to accomplish which they had traversed, by reckoning, two 
 hundred and ninety-two miles, of which about one hundred 
 were performed by water, previously to entering the ice. As 
 they travelled the greater part of the distance on the ice, three 
 times and often five times over, it may be considered that 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 773 
 
 they travelled six hundred and sixty-eight statute miles, or 
 five hundred and eighty geographical miles, being nearly 
 sufficient to have reached the pole in a direct line. During 
 the whole period they had been particularly fortunate as to 
 the health of all the party, as, with the exception of the tri- 
 fling accidents which have been noticed, some troublesome 
 cases of chilblains, and a few bowel complaints which were 
 soon removed, no sickness nor casualties had occurred. 
 
 Their day of rest proved to be one of the warmest and 
 most pleasant they had met with since their first setting out, 
 although the thermometer was only from 31° to 36° in the 
 shade, but contrasted with the weather they had been sub- 
 ject to, it was absolute enjoyment They displayed their 
 ensigns and pendants, and though they failed in placing the 
 British flag in so high a latitude as they intended, it afforded 
 them some satisfaction to be the bearers of it to a parallel be- 
 yond that on any public record. 
 
 At four o'clock in the afternoon of the 27th of July, thcy^ 
 set out on their return to the southward. They left a paper 
 upon a hummock of ice, sewed up in a water-proof canvass 
 bag, and then inclosed in a water-tight tin canister, giving an 
 account of the place where it was deposited, and requesting 
 any person who should find it to send it to the Secretary 
 of the Admiralty. Nothing occurred deserving particular 
 notice, for the following days. They saw a number of small 
 seals, and wounded several, but although stimulated to use 
 their utmost efforts by the keenness of hunger, they failed in 
 getting possession of one. 'I'he 81st was one of the most 
 laborious days they experienced, the ice being composed of 
 loose rugged pieces, dangerous as well as difficult to pass over 
 with the provisions, and requiring a bowline haul during a 
 great part of the journey. I'hey halted at five in the morn- 
 ing of the 1st of August, the officers and men being quite 
 knocked up. Heavy rains prevented their setting out again 
 till eight in the evening, when the weather cleared up. In 
 this journey they discovered some recent bear tracks, and 
 soon after saw the bear itself. Halting the boats, and con- 
 
 F. V. 33 5 G 
 
774 parry's fourth voyage 
 
 cealing the people, they approached him to nearly within gun- 
 shot ; but, after making many movements among the hum- 
 mocks, and getting upon one of them to take a survey of the 
 boats, he set off and escaped, to the great disappointment of 
 the whole party. 
 
 In the course of this day's journey, they met with a quan- 
 tity of snow tinged to the depth of several inches, with some 
 red colouring matter, and they preserved a portion of it in a 
 bottle for future examination. 1 hey had often remarked 
 that the loaded sledges, in passing over hard snow, left upon 
 it a light rose coloured tint, which they attributed to the 
 colour being pressed out of the birch of which they were 
 made ; but at this time they observed that the runners of the 
 boats, as well as their own foot-steps, exhibited the same ap- 
 pearance ; and, on closer attention they found the same effect 
 produced by heavy pressure on almost all the ice over which 
 they passed, though they could discover nothing even by the 
 use of a magnifying glass, which could tend to occasion this 
 tinge. The colour of the red snow, which they put into the 
 bottle, only occurred in a few spots, and appeared somewhat 
 different from the other, being rather of a salmon than of a 
 rose colour. 
 
 Proceeding on their journey southward, they felt it a com- 
 fortable change to have the sun behind them, instead of facing 
 it, as was the case in their journey outward, and the snow 
 was in such a state that the men often sunk two or three feet, 
 while attempting to walk on it. On the 7th, a fat she-bear 
 was killed by Lieutenant Ross, as she was approaching tbe 
 boats ; and before she had been dead an hour, the men were 
 busily engaged in dressing the heart and liver, and cutting 
 and dressing the steaks which they cut from her sides. 
 
 They proceeded on their journey on the 8th, after a heavy 
 rain of more than a whole day's continuance. On first launch- 
 ing the boats, their prospect of getting forward was much at 
 their usual rate, but as they proceeded they found one small 
 hole of water leading into another in so remarkable a manner, 
 (though the space in which they were rowing seemed always 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 775 
 
 coming to art end,) that they continued to move tlirough 
 narrow passages, and made about five miles of southing with- 
 out having hauled the boats up more than one time. This 
 was so unusual a circumstance that it led them to believe 
 they were not far distant from the open sea. On the 11th they 
 observed that much of the ice appeared washed as by a heavy 
 sea, with small rounded fragments thrown on the surface and 
 much dirty ice, all of them indications of approach to an open 
 sea. They met also several pieces of drift wood, and birch- 
 bark, the first they had met with since they entered the ice. 
 Ailer passing through a good deal of loose ice, it became 
 gradually more and more open, till at length, about seven 
 o'clock in the afternoon, they heard the sound of the swell 
 under the hollow margins of the ice, and in a quarter of an 
 hour reached the open sea, which was dashing with heavy 
 surges against the outer masses. They then hauled the 
 boats upon one of the fioes to eat their last meal upon the ice, 
 and to complete their necessary supply of water for their 
 voyage to Table Island, from which they were now distant 
 fifty miles. At eight a light air springing up from the N.W. 
 tiiey again launched the boats, and finally quitted the ice, 
 after having made it their abode for forty-eight days. 
 
 They had some fog during the night, so that they bteered 
 entirely by compass according to their last observations by the 
 chronometers, which proved so correct that at five o'clock in the 
 morning of the 12th, on the clearing up of the haze they saw the 
 island right a-head. In six hours more they reached the spot 
 where the provisions had been deposited,, and every heart felt 
 revived at setting foot on terra firma. 'I'he bears had devour- 
 ed all their bread, amounting to about one hundred pounds 
 weight ; and this occasioned the men humorously to remark 
 that Bruin was only square with. them. They found also 
 that Lieutenant Grozier had again visited the island, and left 
 some materials for repairing the boats, as well as some ar- 
 ticles of provision, to which they had now for several days 
 been strangers. They found also a copper cylinder contain- 
 mg a letter from Lieutenant Foster giving a detailed account 
 
776 parry's fourth voyage 
 
 oF the proceedings of the ship, up to the twenty-third day of 
 July. By this they learned that the Hecla had been forced 
 on shore on the 7th of July, by the breaking-up of the ice at 
 the head of the bay, which came down upon her in one solid 
 mass ; but by the efforts of the officers and men she had been 
 hove off without incurring the slightest damage, and placed in 
 perfect security. Under these circumstances Lieutenant 
 Foster had very properly given up his purpose of leaving her 
 for any length of time, so as to make an extended survey of 
 the coast, and confined himself to the neighbourhood of 
 Waygatz Strait, which was more immediately within his 
 reach. Among the supplies which had been thus forwarded, 
 were some lemon-juice and sugar, which was particularly 
 acceptable, some of the men having for some days past suf- 
 fered from swellings of the legs, and shewed other symptoms 
 of scurvy. 
 
 Having removed the stores into the boats, they rowed round 
 Table Island to seek for a place on which to rest, the men being 
 much fatigued ; but a single spot could not be found where the 
 boats could be hauled up or lie afloat in security. The wind 
 at this time freshening, Captain Parry determined to take 
 advantage of it and to bear up for Walden Island. They 
 had scarcely made sail when the weather became very incle- 
 ment, with a fresh gale and thick snow, which hid Walden 
 Island from their view. Steering however by compass, they 
 made good the land and at seven in the evening landed under 
 the lee of the island. They were completely drenched by the 
 spray and snow, and had been fifty-six hours without rest, 
 and forty-eight hours at work in the boats, so that by the 
 time they had unloaded they had scarcely strength to haul 
 them up on the rock. The fatigue was excessive, but after 
 partaking of a hot supper, and having a blazing fire made of 
 the drift wood and a few hours of quiet rest, they were per- 
 fectly restored. 
 
 The next morning Lieutenant Ross was despatched with 
 a party of hands to the N.E. part of the island to launch the 
 spare boat which Lieutenant Forster had, by direction of 
 
To THE NORTH POLE. 777 
 
 Captain Parry, sent for their use and to bring round the 
 stores deposited there. Every thing was found undisturbed ; 
 the weather now becoming wet they continued here till ten 
 in the morning of the 14th, when the weather being fine, 
 they left Walden Island, and on the 15th arrived at Low 
 Island. They here saw a bear and several deer, two of 
 which they killed. The weather being unfavourable they 
 more than once were prevented from pursuing their voyage. 
 On the 19th, they prepared to move at an early hour, but the 
 wind increasing to a gale raised so much surf on the beach, 
 as to oblige them to haul the boats higher up. On the 21st, 
 completely tired of such tedious confinement, they ventured 
 to launch the boats, being occasionally favoured with a light 
 breeze, and at half past four o'clock, when within three or 
 four miles of Hecla Cove, they had the gratification of seeing 
 a boat under sail coming out to meet them. Mr Weir now 
 soon joined them in one of the cutters, who gave them a good 
 account of the safety of the ship, and of the health of all on 
 board. At seven o'clock in the evening they reached the ship, 
 after an absence of sixty-one days, and they were received 
 with the most hearty welcome by their comrades on board. 
 
 During this excursion they had travelled five hundred and 
 sixty-nine geographical miles ; but, taking into the account 
 the number of times they had to return for their baggage in 
 most of their journies over the ice, they could not have travel- 
 led less than nine-hundred and seventy-eight geographical 
 miles, amounting to eleven hundred and twenty-seven statute 
 miles. Considering how much the party had been exposed 
 to wet, cold, and fatigue, the state of their health was much 
 better than could be expected ; as only three of the party 
 required medical care ; and these three returned in a short 
 time to their duty. 
 
 In taking a review of the circumstances which had occurred, 
 Captain Parry expresses great satisfaction at the cheerful 
 alacrity, and unwearied zeal displayed by both officers and 
 men during the excursion, and says, that if steady perseve- 
 
778 PAllIlt's FOURTH VOYAGE 
 
 ranee and active exertion could have accomplished their object, 
 success would undoubtedly have crowned their labours. In 
 respect to the excellent construction of the boats, which they 
 had taken to accomplish their journey, he says, that notwith- 
 standing the constant and severe trial to which their strength 
 had been put, not a timber was sprung, a plank split, or the 
 smallest injury sustained by them ; but that they were as 
 tight and as fit for service when they reached the ship, as 
 when they were received first on board, and had answered the 
 purposes for which they were intended. 
 
 On arriving on board the Hecla, Captain Parry found that 
 I/ieu tenant Fosrter had proceeded on a survey of Waygatz 
 Strait and purposed returning by the 26th. The ship was 
 quite ready for sea, with the exception of getting the launch 
 on board and the stores which had been deposited on the 
 beach. It appeared that after the ship had been hauled off 
 the ground, they had suffered considerable disturbance for 
 several days, fr5m the heavy masses of ice driving into the 
 bay, dragging their anchors, and threatening a similar acci« 
 dent. However, after the middle of July no ice entered the 
 bay. Not a piece indeed had been seen in the offing for 
 several weeks past even after hard northerly and westerly 
 gales. It was a source of great satisfaction to find every body 
 on board in good health, excepting Mr. Crawford, the Green- 
 land Master, who had been in a declining state for some time 
 and now evinced dropsical symptoms, indicating a gradual 
 decav. 
 
 On the 22nd, after the people had enjoyed a good night^s 
 rest, they commenced bringing the stores from the beach, 
 throwing out as much of the stone ballast as was necessary ; 
 after which the cables and hawsers were cast off from the 
 shore and the ship hauled off to single anchor. Lieutenant 
 Forster returned on the 24th, after having surveyed the 
 greater part of the shores of the strait, in doing which he found 
 almost every feature of the lands distinctly delineated in the old 
 Dutch charts, but their position, both as to latitude and 
 longitude somewhat erroneous. A striking feature on the 
 
TO Tllli NORTH POLE. 7T9 
 
 western coast of the Strait, was the numerous icebergs which 
 lined many parts of the cliffs. One of these was as much as 
 nine miles in length, and one hundred and fifty feet high. 
 Immense masses of ice were constantly falling from them at this 
 season, with a sound Hke that of thunder. The shores of 
 the Strait were lined with immense quantities of drift wood, 
 wherever the nature of the coast would admit it. 
 
 The animals met with here, during the time the Hecla re- 
 mained, were mostly rein-deer, bears, foxes, kitti wakes, glau- 
 cous and ivory gulls, tern, eider-ducks and grouse. Seventy 
 r^in-deer were killed, but they were mostly small, and not in 
 good condition till after the middle of August. They also 
 killed three bears, one of which measured eight feet four 
 inches from the snout to the insertion of the tail. 
 
 The neighbourhood of this bay, like most of the northern 
 shores of Spitzbergen, appears to have been much visited by 
 the Dutch at a very early period, and they met with the graves 
 of the dead on almost every spot on which they landed. The 
 bodies were usually deposited in oblong wooden coffins, which, 
 on account of the difficulty of digging the ground, were not 
 buried, but covered by large stones. A board was generally 
 placed near the head, having the name of the deceased either 
 cut or painted upon it, together with the name of his ship 
 and the person who commanded it, as also the year and month 
 of his burial. Several of these were fifty and sixty years old ; 
 one bore the date of 1738, and another that of 1G90, in 
 which the inscription distinctly appeared in piominent relief, 
 occasioned by the paint having preserved the wood while the 
 unpainted part had decayed around it. 
 
 ■^I'he Hecla was got ready for sea by the 25th of August ; 
 but they were prevented from moving till the evening of the 
 2Sth by the wind, when the ship got under way, and having 
 a light breeze from the S.E. they stood along the coast to the 
 westward. On the 29th they got on board their boat and 
 other stores which had been left at Red Beach, and found 
 them undisturbed and in good order. The weather was now 
 beautifully fine, and it was wonderful to observe that upon 
 
780 parry's fourth voyage 
 
 the whole northern coast of Spitzbergen, where in May and 
 June not a hole of clear water could be found, it would now 
 have been equally as difficult to discover a single mass of ice 
 in any direction. On rounding Hakluyt*s Headland on tlie 
 13th, they came at once into a long swell, such as occurs 
 only in places exposed to the whole range of the ocean. 
 
 They had now favourable winds, which carried them clear 
 of Spitzbergen ; but after the 3rd of September, southerly 
 and south-westerly breezes detained them so that they did 
 not reach Shetland until the evening of the 17th. At this 
 place they were received with all that glad welcome for which 
 the inhabitants of this northern part of the British doniinions 
 are distinguished, and were supplied with every comfort they 
 required. On the 19th they again got under way, and pro- 
 ceeded to the southward ; but they had not proceeded farther 
 than Fair Island, when, after a few hours calm they met 
 with a southerly wind, against which they continued to beat 
 till the morning of the 23rd, when they resolved to put into 
 Long Hope in the Orkney Islands, to await a change ; and 
 therefore they ran in and anchored as soon as the tide would 
 permit. 
 
 At this place they found his Majesty's revenue cutter the 
 Chichester, and her commander Mr. Stuart, who, as soon as 
 they had anchored, came on board and offered his services in 
 any way which might be useful. He was bound for Inverness ; 
 and the wind continuing contrary. Captain Parry took advan- 
 tage of the opportunity, left the Hecla, and accompanied by 
 Mr. Beverly proceeded to Inverness in the Chichester, and 
 from thence by land to London, and arrived at the Admiralty 
 on the morning of the 29th of September. 
 
 The wind continuing contrary, the Hecla did not arrive in 
 the river Thames until the 6th of October. In the interval 
 Mr. George Crawford, the Greenland master, departed this life.. 
 He was a zealous, active and enterprising seaman, and much 
 respected by all who knew him. He had been the companion 
 of Captain Parry in five successive voyages to the polar sea. 
 On the 17th the Hecla having arrived at Deptford, his Royal 
 
TO THE NORTH TOLE. 781 
 
 Highness the Lord High Admiral inspected the ship, together 
 with the equipment of the boats which had been employed in 
 the expedition over the ice, and on the 1st of November fol- 
 lowing, the Hecla was paid off. 
 
 In taking a review of the efforts used in this and the pre- 
 ceding voyages, it must appear to every reader that if a 
 passage is to be found, yet that it is of most difficult attain- 
 ment. Whether any improvement can be made in the con- 
 struction and adaptation of the vessels which may go out in 
 search of a passage into the Pacific by the North Pole may 
 be questioned. Among the schemes which have been sug- 
 gested for this end, it has been proposed to set out from 
 Spitzbergen, and to make a rapid journey to the northward 
 with sledges or sledge-boats, drawn by dogs or rein-deer : how- 
 ever favourable this plan may at first sight appear, the ice 
 which they would probably have to encounter does not seem 
 to give any reasonable expectation of its success. It would 
 be very imprudent to set out on this enterprize, without the 
 means of crossing the pools, lanes, and extent;ive spaces of 
 open water which are continually to be met with. It may be 
 questioned whether any boat sufficiently large and safe for 
 this purpose could be managed upon the ice, if to be drawn 
 by either dogs or rein-deer. Daily instances occurred in the 
 effort to pass difficult places, which required instant reflection 
 and thought, as well as power and strength. The constant 
 necessity of launching and hauling up the boats, an operation 
 they had frequently to perform eight or ten times in a journey, 
 and on one occasion seventeen times in the same day, would 
 render it inexpedient to depend on these animals, for it 
 would require more time and labour to get them into and 
 out of the boats, than their services would be worth for draw- 
 ing or their flesh for food, when it is taken into consideration 
 how large a weight of provender must also be carried for 
 their subsistence. If rein- deer were to be employed, which 
 appear to be the best suited to this kind of travelling, it would 
 be eligible to set out much earlier in the year, perhaps about 
 the end of April, when the ice is less broken up and the snow 
 
 P. V. 33. 5H 
 
782 PAkar's louiiTii voyage 
 
 harder ; but for this end it would be necessary that the party 
 should pass the previous winter on the coast of Spitzbergen ; 
 but probably it would not be possible to procure provender 
 for them at this place even sudicient to keep them alive dur- 
 ing a whole winter. The exploring party must also be pro- 
 vided with a greater weight of warm clothing to guard against 
 the severity of the cold, and also an increased proportion of 
 fuel to melt the snow, there being no fresh water upon the 
 ice in these latitudes before the month of June. All these 
 circumstances would increase the difficulties of equipping such 
 an expedition and of rendering their utmost efforts abortive. 
 
 Connected in a great measure with the voyages of 
 Captains Parry and Franklin, is the voyage of Captain 
 Beechey ; the latter being sent with provisions for their use in 
 the event of either of them being able to find their passage 
 into the polar sea. With this view he was to sail to Behring's 
 igtrait, and wait in Koizebue Sound during the summer 
 months of 1826, and in case neither of them appeared, and no 
 information was obtained respecting them, he was to return 
 and reniain during the summer months of the following year, 
 and there continue until the winter set in, so as to render it 
 imprudent to remain longer, unless that be should obtain 
 such knowledge of them as to render it unnecessary. 
 
 The ship was partially strengthened and otherwise adapt- 
 ed to the service by increasing her stowage. A boat was 
 supplied to be used as a tender, and for this purpose she 
 was made as large as the space on the deck would allow. 
 Cloth, beads and cutlery were put on board ; and two fow- 
 ling pieces, embossed with silver, and fitted in the most com- 
 plete manner, were supplied as presents to the Kings of the 
 Society and Sandwich Islands. 'J 'he seamen were furnished 
 with two suits of clothes gratis, and were allowed the further 
 privilege of having six months wages in advance. 
 
 On the 19th of May 1825, the ship sailed from Spithead', 
 without any thing particular to notice : on the ISth of July 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 783 
 
 they arrived at Rio Janeiro, and the ship being in want of 
 caulking and the rigging of a refit, previous to encountering 
 the boisterous latitude of Cape Horn, these repairs were im- 
 mediately commenced, and the few stores expended on the 
 passage were replaced. On the 13th of August they sailed 
 from Rio Janeiro for the Pacific : a passage, interesting from 
 the difficulties which sometimes attend it, and from its pos- 
 sessing the peculiarity of producing the greatest change of 
 climate m the shortest space of time. The day following they 
 encountered a dangerous thunder-storm ; during the time it 
 lasted the sheet lightning was vivid and incessant, and the 
 forked frequently passed between the masts. The wind 
 varied so often that it was with the greatest difficulty 
 the sails were prevented coming a-back, and it blew so hard 
 that it was necessary to lower the close-reefed topsails on the 
 cap ; shortly after midnight a vivid flash of lightning left five 
 meteors upon the mast-heads and topsail yard-arms, but did 
 no damage. They burnt about a quarter of an hour and 
 then disappeared, the weather afterwards moderated. 
 
 On the 16th of September they made Cape Horn. They 
 then entered the Pacific Ocean, and on the 8th of October 
 anchored at Talcahuana, the sea-port of Conception. Here 
 they found a British Squadron under the command of Captain 
 Maling. On the 25th they anchored at Valpairosa ; pro* 
 ceeding on their voyage on the 4th of December they made 
 Pitcairn Island, the place of residence of the mutineers who 
 ran away with his Majesty's ship Bounty, turning Lieutenant 
 Bligh and such part of the crew as refused to join them a drift 
 in the pinnace. 
 
 The announcement of Pitcairn Island from the mast-head 
 brought every one on deck, and they soon had the pleasure 
 of seeinor a boat under sail hastening towards them. At first 
 the complete equipment of this boat raised a doubt as to its 
 being the property of the islanders, as they expected to see 
 only a well provided canoe ; but they were soon agreeably 
 undeceived by the singular appearance of her crew, which 
 consisted of old Adams and all the young men of the is^and. 
 
784 parry's fourth voyage 
 
 Before they ventured to take hold of the ship they enquired 
 if they might come on board ; and on receiving permission 
 they sprang up the side and shook every officer by the hand 
 with undisguised feelings of gratification. Adams was in his 
 sixty-fifth year, and was unusually strong and active for 
 his age. He was dressed in a sailor's shirt and trowsers 
 and a low-crowned hat. The latter he held in his hand until 
 desired to put it on. Jt was the first time he had been on 
 board a ship of war since the mutiny, and he manifested a 
 measure of embarrassment, occasioned perhaps by the familia- 
 rity with which the officers and all on board addressed him ; for 
 he did not appear to be apprehensive of his personal safety from 
 the part he took in the mutiny, and very soon made himself 
 at home. 
 
 The young men, ten in number, were tall, robust and 
 healthy, with good-natured countenances, which would any 
 where have procured them a friendly reception, together with 
 a simplicity of manner and a fear of doing wrong which at once 
 prevented the possibility of giving offence. Unacquainted 
 with the world, they asked a number of questions, enquired 
 after ships and individuals whom the persons on board the 
 Blossom never heard of. Their dress, made up of the pre- 
 sents which had been made them by the masters and seamen 
 of merchant ships which had touched at Pitcairn Island, was 
 a complete caricature : some had on long black coats, with- 
 out any other article of dress except trowers, some had on 
 shirts without coats, and others waistcoats without either ; 
 none had shoes or stockings, and only two possessed hats, 
 neither of which seemed likely to hang long together. They 
 were very inquisitive, and at the same time ready to answer 
 the various inquiries of their visitors respecting the conduct 
 of the mutineers. The following statement was made by 
 Adams. 
 
 The ship Bounty, under the command of Lieutenant Bhgh, 
 was sent out to Otaheite in December 1787, for the purpose 
 of transporting the bread fruit tree of that country to tlie 
 British settlements in the West Indies. The crew consisted 
 
To THE NORTH POLE. 785 
 
 of forty-four persons and a gardener. She arrived at her 
 destination in October 1788, and spent six months in collect- 
 ing and stowing away the fruit, during which time the officers 
 and seamen had free access to the shore and made many 
 friends, though one only of the seamen formed any alliance 
 til ere. 
 
 In April following they bid adieu to their friends at 
 Otaheite and proceeded to Anamooka, where they replenish- 
 ed their stock of water and took on board hogs, fruit, vegeia- 
 bles. &c., leaving the latter place on the 26th of the same 
 month. Throughout the voyage Mr. Bligh had repeated 
 misunderstandings with his officers, and on several occasions 
 gave the ship's company just reasons of complaint ; but what- 
 ever might be the feelings of the officers, Adams declared that 
 there was ^o real discontent among the crew, much less any 
 idea of offering violence to their commander. I'he officers, 
 Adams said, had much more cause of dissatisfaction than the 
 seamen, and particularly the master and Mr. Christian. '1 he 
 latter was under some pecuniary obligations to Mr. Bligh, of 
 which he continually reminded him when any difference arobe, 
 and thus continually taunted, Christian, in a moment of ex- 
 citation, told his commander that sooner or later a day of reck- 
 oning would arrive. 
 
 The day previous to the mutmy, a serious quarrel took 
 place between lieutenant BHgh and his officers about some 
 cocoa-nuts which he missed from his private stock, when 
 Christian fell under his commander's displeasure. Being in- 
 vited the same evening to supper in the cabin, he excused 
 himself from accepting it, and began to ponder over his 
 grievances until he came to consider them as so intolerable as 
 not longer to be endured, and he came to the determination 
 that as he could not redress them, he would escape from the 
 possibility of their being increased. He had formed connec- 
 tions at Otaheite which tended to weaken his desire to return 
 to his native country, and he quickly resolved to set himself 
 adrift upon a raft, and to make his way to shore, the ship 
 being at this time passing to the southward of Tofoa, one of 
 
786 parry's fourth voyage 
 
 the Friendly Islands. He quickly constructed a raft, put 
 various useful articles upon it, and was on the point of launching 
 it, when a young officer, who afterwards perished in the Pandora, 
 to whom Christian communicated his intention, recommended 
 him rather to endeavour to take possession of the ship, which 
 he said would not be difficult, as many of the ship''s company 
 were not well disposed towards the commander, and would 
 rather return to Otaheite and reside among their friends in 
 that island. This proposal accorded so well with the disposi- 
 tion of Christian's mind, that, hazardous as it was, he deter- 
 mined to co-operate with his friend in effecting it, resolving it" 
 it failed to throw himself into the sea ; and that there might 
 be no chance of being saved, he tied a deep sea lead about his 
 neck and concealed it within his clothes. 
 
 Christian had at this time the morning watch, aifd as soon as 
 he had relieved the officer of the deck, he entered into conversa- 
 tion with Quintal, the only one of the seamen who had formed 
 any serious attachment at Otaheite, and disclosed to him his 
 intentions. Quintal, after some consideration, said he thought 
 it a dangerous attempt and declined to take part in it. Vex- 
 ed at this circumstance Christian became desperate, and ex- 
 hibited the lead about his neck in testimony of his own deter- 
 mination, and taxed Quintal with cowardice. The latter deni- 
 ed this and recommended him to try some other seaman, Isaac 
 Martin for instance, who was standing by. Martin, on being 
 spoken to, emphatically declared he was for it, it was the 
 very thing. Having succeeded here, Christian went to every 
 man of his watch, many of whom he found disposed to join 
 him, and before daylight the greater portion of the ship's com- 
 pany were brought over. 
 
 Adams was sleeping in his hammock when Sumner, one of 
 the seamen, came to him and whispered that Christian was 
 going to take the ship from her commander, and set him and 
 the master on shore. On hearing this Adams went upon 
 deck, and found every thing in great confusion ; but not then 
 liking to take any part in the transaction, he returned to his 
 hammock and remained there until he saw Christian at the 
 
TO THE NOKTH TCIE. 787 
 
 finn-chest, disti ilxiting arms to all who came for them ; and 
 then, seeing measures had proceeded so far, and apprehensive 
 of being on the weaker side, he turned out again and went 
 for a cutlass. 
 
 AW those who purposed to assist Christian being armed, 
 Adams, with others, were ordered to secure the officers, while 
 Christian and the master-at-arms proceeded to the cabin to 
 make a prisoner of lieutenant Bligh. They seized him in his 
 cot, bound his hands behind him, and brought him upon deck. 
 He remonstrated with them on their conduct, but received 
 only abuse in return, and a blow from the master-at-arms 
 with the flat side of a cutlass. He was placed near the bin- 
 nacle and detained there, with his arms pinioned, by Christian, 
 who held him with one hand, and a bayonet with the other. 
 As soon as the lieutenant was secured, the sentinels which 
 had been placed over the doors of the officers, cabins were 
 taken olf : the master them jumped upon the forecastle and 
 endeavoured to form a party to retake the ship ; but he was 
 quickly secured and sent below in confinement. This con- 
 duct of the master, who was the only officer that tried to 
 bring the mutineers to a sense of their duty, was the more 
 highly creditable to him, as he had the greatest cause for 
 discontent, Mr. Bligh having been more severe to him than 
 to any of the other officers. 
 
 It now became a matter of dispute whether the lieutenant 
 and his party, (whom the mutineers resolved to set adrift) 
 should have the launch or the cutter ; and it being decided 
 in favour of the launch, Christian ordered her to be hoisted 
 out; Martin, who was the first convert to Christian's plan, 
 foreseeing that with the aid of so large a boat the party would 
 find their way to England, and thus lead to their own detec- 
 tion, exclaimed, if you give him the launch I will go with him ; 
 you may as well give him the ship. Whether he was in 
 earnest or not, he was afterwards ordered to the gangway 
 from his post of command over the lieutenant, he having fed 
 him with a shaddock, and exchanged looks with him in- 
 dicative of friendly intentions. It then fell to the lot of 
 
788 paery's fourth voyage 
 
 Adams to guard the lieutenant, who, observing him stationed 
 by his side, exclaimed, and you, Smith, are you against me ? 
 (Smith was the name which Adams went by on board the 
 liounty,) Adams replied, that he only acted as the others did — 
 he must be like the rest. 
 
 The launch was by this time hoisted out ; and the officers 
 and seamen of heutenant Bligh's party having been supplied 
 with what was considered necessary for their voyage, consist- 
 ing of a small cask of water, 150 pounds of bread, a small 
 quantity of rum and wine, a quadrant, a compass, some lines, 
 rope, canvass, twine, &c. they were ordered into her. Among 
 those who took their seat in her was Martin, which being 
 observed by Quintal, he pointed a musket at him and declar- 
 ed he would shoot him unless he instantly returned to 
 the ship, which he did. The armourer and carpenter's mates 
 were also forcibly detained, as they might be required here- 
 after. Lieutenant Bligh was then conducted to the gangway, 
 and ordered to descend into the boat, where his hands were 
 unbound ; after which the whole party were veered astern 
 and kept there while the ship stood towards the island. In 
 this interval lieutenant Bligh requested some muskets might 
 be given him to protect his party against the natives ; but 
 these were refused and four cutlasses thrown to them instead. 
 When they were about ten leagues from Tafoa, at lieutenant 
 Bligh's request the launch was cast off, and, immediately, 
 * huzza for Otaheite' echoed throughout the Bounty. 
 
 There now remained in the ship. Christian, who was the 
 mate ; Haywood, Young and Stewart, midshipmen ; the 
 master-at-arms, and sixteen seamen, besides the three artifi- 
 cers and the gardener ; forming in all twenty-five persons. 
 In the launch were the lieutenant, master, surgeon, a master*s 
 mate, two midshipmen, a botailist, three warrant officers, clerk, 
 and eight seamen, making in all nineteen ; and had not the 
 three persons before mentioned been forcibly detained, the 
 captain would have had exactly half the ship's company. 
 
 The ship having stood some time to the W.N.W, with a 
 view to deceive the party in the launch, was afterwards put 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 789 
 
 about, and her course directed as near to Otaheite as the wind 
 would permit. Finding however some difficulty in reaching 
 that island, they bore away for Tobouai, a small island about 
 three hundred miles to the southward of it, where they re- 
 solved to establish themselves provided the natives were not 
 hostile to their purpose. On attempting to land however the 
 natives disputed every foot of ground with spears, clubs and 
 stones, until they were dispersed by a discharge of cannon and 
 musketry. This determined hostility put an end to the 
 mutineers design of settling among them ; and after two days 
 fruitless attempt at reconciliation, they left the island and 
 proceeded to Otaheite. Tobouai however being a favourite 
 spot with them, they resolved to make another attempt to 
 settle there. This they thought would not be difficult, pro- 
 vided the islanders were acquainted with their friendly inten- 
 tions. The only way to accomplish this was through inter- 
 preters, who might be procured at Otaheite ; and in order 
 not to be dependent on the natives of Tobouai for wives, they 
 determined to engage several Otahcitan women to accompany 
 them. They were fortunate in finding several persons, both 
 male and female, willing to accompany them, and they sailed 
 agam for Tobouai, where, as they expected, they were better 
 received than before, in consequence of being able to com- 
 municate with the natives through their interpreters. 
 
 Experience had taught them the necessity of making self- 
 defence their first consideration, and a fort was consequently 
 commenced eighty yards square, surrounded by a wide ditch. 
 This was nearly completed, when the natives, imagining that 
 Christianas party were going to destroy them, and that the 
 ditch was intended as a place of interment, planned a general 
 attack when the party should proceed to work in the morning. 
 It happened that one of the Otaheitans who had accompanied 
 them over-heard this conspiracy and apprised the mutineers 
 of their danger. Instead therefore of proceeding to their 
 work at the fort as usual the following morning, they made 
 an attack upon the natives, killed and wounded several, and 
 obliged the others to retire inland. The continued state of 
 
 P. V. 34. 51 
 
790 parry's fourth voyage 
 
 suspense in which they were kept by the natives, occasioned 
 them to decide on returning to Otaheite again, which they 
 accordingly did, and were again well received by their old 
 friends. 
 
 Christian now purposed to proceed in the ship to some 
 distant uninhabited island, for the purpose of permanently 
 settling ; but on communicating this plan to his shipmates, 
 he found only a few inclined to assent to it : but no objec- 
 tions were offered to his taking the ship by those who dissent- 
 ed, all they required was an equal distribution of such pro- 
 visions and stores as might be useful. Young, Brown, Mills, 
 Williams, Quintal, M' Coy, Martin, Adams, and six natives 
 (four of Otaheite and two of Tobouai) resolved to follow the 
 fate of Christian. Remaining therefore only twenty-four 
 hours at Otaheite, they took leave of their comrades, and 
 having invited on board several of the women with the feign- 
 ed purpose of taking leave, the cables were cut and they were 
 carried off to sea. Such of the mutineers as remained at Otaheite 
 were afterwards taken by his majesty's ship Pandora, which 
 was purposely sent from England to seize them after the 
 return of lieutenant Bligh. 
 
 Christian and his party now bade adieu to all the world 
 save the few individuals associated with them in exile. Where 
 that exile was to be passed was not as yet decided- The 
 Marquesas islands were first proposed ; but Christian, on 
 reading Captain Carteret's account of Pitcairn island, preferr- 
 ed it and accordingly they shaped their course thither. They 
 reached it in a few days, and Christian with one of the sea- 
 men landed in a little nook which they afterwards found very 
 convenient for disembarkation. The island suited their 
 wishes. It possessed water, wood, a good soil, and some 
 fruits. The anchorage in the offing was very bad, and land- 
 ing for boats extremely hazardous. The mountains were 
 difficult of access, the passes narrow, and there were several 
 caves to which, in case of necessity, they could retreat. They 
 now brought the ship to an anchor, in a small bay, on the 
 northern side of the island, which Captain Beechey has 
 
TO THE NORTH- POLE. 791 
 
 named Bounty Bay. Here every thing that could be of 
 utility was landed, and it was then agreed to destroy the ship 
 either by running her on shore or burning her. Christian, 
 Adams, and the majority were for the former expedient ; but 
 while they went to the fore part of the ship for this purpose, 
 Quintal set fire to the carpenter's store room. The vessel 
 burnt to the water's edge and then drifted upon the rocks; 
 where the remainder of the wreck was burnt to prevent dis- 
 covery. This took place on the twenty-third of January, 1790. 
 
 Upon their first landing they perceived, by the remains of 
 several habitations, morais, and three or four rudely sculp- 
 tured images, which stood upon the eminence overlooking 
 the bay where the ship was destroyed, that the island had 
 been previously inhabited. Some apprehensions were, in 
 consequence, entertained lest the natives should have secreted 
 themselves, and in some unguarded moment make an attack 
 upon them ; but by degrees these fears subsided, and their 
 avocations proceeded without interruption. 
 
 A suitable spot of ground for a village was fixed upon, 
 with the exception of which the island was divided into equal 
 portions, but to the exclusion of the poor blacks, who being 
 only friends of the seamen, were not considered as entitled to 
 the same privileges. Obliged to lend their assistance to the 
 others, in order to procure u subsistence, they thus, from 
 being their friends, in the course of time became their 
 slaves. No discontent, however, was manifested, and they 
 willingly assisted in the cultivation of the soil. In clearing 
 the space that was allotted to the village, a row of trees was 
 hit between it and the sea, for the purpose of concealing the 
 houses from the observation of any vessels that might be 
 passing, and nothing was allowed to be erected that might in 
 any way attract attention. Until these houses were finished, 
 the sails of the Bounty were converted into tents, and when 
 no longer required for that purpose, became very acceptable 
 as clothing. Thus supplied with all the necessaries of life, 
 and some of its luxuries, they felt their condition comfortable, 
 even beyond their most sanguine expectations, and every 
 
792 pakiiy's fourth voyage 
 
 thing went on peaceably and prosperously for about two 
 years ; at the expiration of which Williams, who had the 
 misfortune to lose his wife about a month after his arrival, by 
 . a fall from a precipice while collecting birds eggs, became 
 dissatisfied, and threatened to leave the island in one of the 
 boats of the Bounty, unless he had another wife ; an unrea- 
 sonable request, as it could not be complied with, except at 
 the expence of the happiness of one of his companions : but 
 Williams, actuated by selfish considerations alone, persisted 
 in his threat, and the Europeans, not wiUingtopart with him, 
 on account of his usefulness as an armourer, constrained one 
 of the blacks to bestow his wife upon the applicant. The 
 blacks, outrageous at this second act of flagrant injustice, 
 made common cause with their companion, and matured a 
 plan of revenge upon their aggressors, which, had it succeed- 
 edj would have proved fatal to all the Europeans. — Fortu- 
 nately, the secret was imparted to the women, who ingeniously 
 communicated it to the white men in a song, of which the 
 words were, " Why does black man sharpen axe ? to kill 
 white man." — The instant Christian became aware of the plot^ 
 he seized his gun and went in search of the blacks, but with 
 a view only of showing them that their scheme was discoveredj 
 and thus by timely interference endeavouring to prevent the 
 execution of it. He met one of them (Ohoo) at a little dis- 
 tance from the village, taxed him with the conspiracy, and in 
 order to intimidate him, discharged his gun, which he had 
 humanely loaded with powder only. Ohoo however imagin- 
 ing otherwise, and that the bullet had missed its object, de- 
 rided his unskilfulness and fled into the woods, followed by 
 his accomplice Talaloo, who had been deprived of his wife. 
 
 The remaining blacks, finding their plot discovered, pur- 
 chased pardon by promising to murder their accomplices, 
 who had fled, which they afterwards performed by an act of 
 the most odious treachery. Ohoo was betrayed and murdered by 
 his own nephew ; and Talaloo, after an ineffectual attempt 
 made upon him by poison, fell by the hands of his friend and 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 793 
 
 his wife, the very woman on whose account all the dis- 
 turbance began. 
 
 Tranquillity Was by these means restored, and continued 
 for about two years, at the expiration of which time dissatis- 
 faction was again manifested by the blacks, in consequence of 
 their ill tfeatment by Quintal and M'Coy, and they meditated 
 a plan to destroy their oppressors. It was agreed that two 
 of the blacks, Timor and Nehow, should desert from their 
 masters, provide themselves with arms, and hide in the woods, 
 but maintain a frequent communication with the other two, 
 Tetaheite and Menalee, and that at a particular time they 
 should attack and put to death all the Englishmen when at 
 work in their plantations. Tetaheite borrowed a gun and 
 ammunition of his master under a pretence of shooting hogs, 
 which had become numerous ; but instead of this, with the 
 aid of his accomplice he shot Williams. Martin, who was 
 at no great distance, heard the report, but supposed that a hog 
 had been shot. The blacks then proceeded towards Chris- 
 tian's plantation, who was at work at his yam plot, and shot 
 him. Mills, Martin, and Brown, were then murdered, and 
 M'Coy and Quintal fled to the woods. Adams was first ap- 
 prised of his danger by Quintal's wife, who, in hurrying 
 through his plantation, asked why he was working at such 
 a time ? Not understanding the question, but seeing her 
 alarmed, he followed her, and was almost immediately met by 
 the blacks, whose appearance exciting suspicion, he made his 
 escape into the woods. After remaining there three or four 
 liours, Adams, thinking all was quiet, stole to his yamplot for a 
 supply of provisions ; his movements were noticed by the 
 blacks, who attacked and shot him through the body, the ball 
 entering at his right shoulder and passing out through his 
 throat. He fell upon his side and was instantly assailed by 
 one of them with the but end of his gun, but he parried the 
 blow. Tetaheite then placed his gun to his side, but it 
 missed fire twice. Adams then sprang on his legs and ran 
 off with as much speed as he was able, and outstripped his 
 pursuers, who seeing him likely to escape, offered him pro- 
 
791 parry's fourth voyage 
 
 tection if he would stop. Adams being much exhausted by 
 his wound, readily accepted their terms, and was conducted 
 to Christian's house, where he was kindly treated. Here the 
 attempt at blood-shedding ended, leaving only four English- 
 men alive out of nine. 
 
 Young, who was a great favourite with the women, and 
 hud, during this attack been secreted by them, was now also 
 taken to Christian's house. The other two, M'Coy and 
 Quintal, who had always been the great oppressors of tlie 
 blacks, escaped to the mountains where they supported them- 
 selves upon the produce of the ground about them. 
 
 The party in the village lived in tolerable tranquillity for 
 about a week, at the expiration of which the men of colour 
 began to quarrel about the right of choosing the women 
 whose husbands had been killed, which ended in Menalee's 
 shooting Timoa as he sat by the side of Young's wife, accom- 
 panying her song with his flute. 1 imoa not dying immedi- 
 ately, Menalee reloaded and deliberately despatched him by 
 a second discharge. He afterwards attacked Tetaheite, who 
 was condoling with Young's wife for the loss of her favourite 
 black, and would have murdered him also but for the inter- 
 ference of the women. Afraid to remain longer in the village, 
 he escaped to the mountains and joined Quintal and M'Coy, 
 who, though glad of his services, at first received him with 
 suspicion. This acquisition to their force enabled them to 
 bid defiance to the opposite party, and coming to a ridge of 
 mountains within sight of the village, they fired a volley, 
 which so alarmed the others that they sent Adams to say that 
 if they would kill the black man, Menalee, and return to the 
 village, they would be friends. — The terms were so far com- 
 plied with that Menalee was shot ; but apprehensive of the 
 sincerity of the remaining blacks, they would not however 
 return. 
 
 The widows of the white men so deeply deplored their loss 
 that they resolved to murder the only two remaining men of 
 colour, which they effected the first opportunity. These 
 fatal circmstances were communicated to the two absentees 
 
TO THK XORTH POLE. 795 
 
 and their return solicited ; but they doubted the fact until 
 the hands and heads of the deceased were produced, which 
 being done, they returned to the village. ^J'hese circum- 
 stances occurred on the 3rd of October 1793. There were 
 now left on the island. Adams, Young, M'Coy and Quintal, 
 ten women, and some children. About two months after 
 this Young began to keep a journal of what occurred, which 
 states that they lived peaceably together, cultivating their 
 grounds, fishing, catching birds, and constructing pits to entrap 
 the hogs, which had become very numerous. 
 
 The women however soon became discontented, living pro- 
 miscuously with the men and frequentl}^ changing their abode. 
 They at length expressed a strong desire to obtain a convey- 
 ance by which they might leave the island, and the men began 
 to build them a boat for that purpose ; but, wanting planks 
 and nails, Jenny, the name of one of them, tore up the boards 
 of her house, and endeavoured, though ineffectually, to per- 
 suade the others to Ibllow her example. The vessel at length 
 was finished, but on being launched she upset, to their great 
 dissatisfaction. On the 11th of November 1794, a conspiracy 
 of the women to kill the white men in their sleep was dis- 
 covered ; upon which they were all seized and a disclosure 
 followed ; but they were pardoned on promising to conduct 
 themselves properly and never again to give cause to suspect 
 their behaviour. But although they were pardoned, the men 
 became very suspicious of them, and not without sufficient 
 reason, as future events declared, for, on the 30th of the same 
 month, the women agam collected and attacked them ; but 
 they were again subdued without any lives being lost, and 
 once more pardoned on promise of future good conduct. By 
 these means the men were kept in constant care and solicitude 
 although fortunately nothing distressing occurred during that 
 and the following year. They now became more sociable, 
 dining frequently at each others houses, and contributing 
 more to the comfort of the women, who on their part gave no 
 ground for uneasiness. There was also a mutual accommo- 
 dation amongst them in regard to provisions, so that if one 
 
796 parry's fourth voyage 
 
 person was successful in hunting, he lent to others, on condi- 
 tion of being repaid at a future opportunity, and hereby they 
 lived in a more quiet and domestic state. 
 
 It unfortunately happened that M*Coy had been employed 
 in a distillery in Scotland ; and being addicted to liquor, he 
 tried an experiment with the tee-root, and on the 20ih of 
 April 1798 succeeded in producing a bottle of ardent spirit. 
 The success induced Quintal to alter his kettle into a still, 
 and frequent intoxication was the consequence. M'Coy in- 
 dulged so largely in the use of these spirits that it at length 
 produced delirium and in one of these fits he threw himself 
 from a cHff and was killed. I'his awful circumstance so 
 affected them that they resolved never again to touch spirits, 
 and, as respected Adanis at least, it is believed to have been 
 effectual to that end. 
 
 The journal finishes with this account and the narrative is 
 continued from the verbal information of Adams, who said, 
 that in the course of the year 1799, Quintal lost his wife by a 
 fall from the cliff while in search of bird's eggs ; that in conse- 
 quence of this he became discontented, and though there 
 were several disposable women, yet nothing would satisfy him 
 but the wife of one of his companions. Neither of them 
 felt inclined to accede to this unreasonable desire and he 
 therefore sought an opportunity of putting them both to death. 
 He was fortunately foiled in his attempt, but swore he would 
 repeat it, and Adams and Young having no doubt but that he 
 would follow up his resolution, and fearing he might be more 
 successful in the next attempt, came to the conclusion 
 that their own lives were not safe while he was in existence, 
 and that they were justified in putting him to death, which 
 they did with an axe. 
 
 Such was the fate of seven of the leading mutineers, who 
 escaped from justice only to add murder to their former crime ; 
 for though some of them may not have actually imbrued their 
 hands in the blood of their fellow-creatures, yet all were ac- 
 cessory to the deed. Adams and Young were now the sole 
 survivors oqt of the fifteen males who landed upon the island. 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. TG7 
 
 They were both, and more particularly Young, of a serious 
 turn of mind, and it would have been wonderful, after the 
 many dreadful scenes at which they had assisted, if the soli- 
 tude and tranquillity which ensued had not disposed them 
 to repentance. During Christian's lifetime they had only 
 once read the church service, but since his decease this had 
 been regularly done every Sunday. They now, however, resolv- 
 ed to have morning and evening family prayer, to add after- 
 noon service to the duty of the sabbath, and to train up their 
 own children and those of their late unfortunate companions, 
 in piety and virtue. 
 
 In the execution of this resolution Young's education enabled 
 him to be of the greatest assistance ; but he was not long 
 suffered to survive his repentance ; an asthmatic complaint, 
 under which he had for some time laboured, terminated his 
 existence about a year after the death of Quintal, and Adams 
 was left the sole survivor of the misguided and unfortunate 
 mutineers of the Bounty. The loss of his last companion was 
 a great affliction to him, and was for some time severely felt. 
 It was a catastrophe however that more than ever disposed 
 him to repentance, and determined him to execute the pious 
 resolution he had made to serve God. His reformation 
 could not, perhaps, have taken place at a more propitious 
 ynoment. Out of nineteen children upon the island there 
 were several between the ages of seven and nine years, who, 
 had they been longer suffered to follow their own inclina- 
 tions might have acquired habits which it would have been 
 difficult, if not impossible, for Adams to eradicate. The 
 moment was therefore most favourable for his design, and his 
 laudable exertions were attended by advantages both to the 
 objects of his care and to his own mind, which surpassed his 
 most sanguine expectations. lie nevertheless had an arduous 
 task to perform : besides the children to be educated, the . 
 Otaheitan women were to be converted ; and as the example 
 of the parents had a powerful influence over their children, 
 he resolved to make them his first care. Here also his labours 
 •UGceeded ; the Otaheitans were naturally of a tractable dis- 
 P. V. 34. 5 K 
 
793 parry's fourth voyage 
 
 position, and gave him less trouble than he anticipated ; tlie 
 children also acquired such a thirst after scriptural know- 
 ledt^e, that Adams in a short time had little else to do than to 
 answer their enquiries, and put them in the right way. As they 
 grew up they acquired fixed habits of morality and piety ; 
 their colony improved, intermarriages occurred, and tliey now 
 form a happy and well regulated society, the merit of which 
 in a great degree belongs to Adams, and tends to redeem the 
 former errors of his life. 
 
 Such was the state of Adams, and the inhabitants at Pitcairn 
 island when Captain Beechey called there in his majesty's 
 ship the Blossom. This vessel was so much superior in ap- 
 pearance, or, to use tl>e expression of the natives, " so rich,''' 
 compared with the other ships they had seen, that they werecon- 
 stantly afraid of giving offence or doing some injury, so that they 
 would not even move without first asking permission. This diffi- 
 dence gave the crew of the Blossom full occupation for a time, as 
 their visitors seldom directed their attention long to one object, 
 or remained long in one position or place. Having no latches 
 to their doors, they were ignorant of the manner of opening 
 those of the ship, and the crew were in consequence assailed 
 continually with " Please may I sit down, or get up, or go 
 out of the cabin .?" or " Please to open, or to shut the door." 
 Their applications were however made with such good nature 
 and simplicity that it was impossible not to feel the greatest 
 pleasure in paying attention to them. They very soon learnt 
 the christian name of every officer in the ship, which they 
 always used in conversation instead of the sirnames, and 
 wherever a similarity to their own occurred they attached, 
 themselves to that person as a matter of course. 
 
 ** It was many hours after they came on board"" says Captain 
 Beechey, *' before the ship could get near the island, during 
 which time they so ingratiated themselves with us that we 
 felt the greatest desire to visit their houses ; and rather than 
 pass another night at sea we put off^ in the boats, thougn at a 
 considerable distance from the land, and accompanied them to 
 the shore. We followed our guides past a rugged point 
 
TO THE NORT» POLE. 799 
 
 garmounted by tall spiral rocks, known to the islanders as 
 St. Paul's rocks, into a spacious iron bound bay, where the 
 Bounty found her last anchorage. In this bay, which is 
 bounded by lofty cliffs almost inaccessible, it was proposed to 
 land. Thickly branched evergreens skirt the base of these 
 hills, and in summer afford a welcome retreat from the rays 
 of an almost vertical sun. In the distance are seen several 
 high pointed rocks which the pious islanders have named after 
 the most zealous of the Apostles, and outside of them is a 
 square basaltic islet. Formidable breakers fringe the coast, 
 and seem to present an insurmountable barrier to all access. 
 
 "We here brought our boats to an anchor, in consequence 
 of the passage between the sunken rocks being much too in- 
 tricate, and we trusted ourselves to the natives, who landed 
 us, two at a time, in their whale-boat. The difficulty of land- 
 ing was more than repaid by the friendly reception we met 
 with on the beach from Hanuah Young, a very interesting 
 young woman, the daughter of Adams. In her eagerness to 
 greet her father, she had outrun her female companions, for 
 whose delay she thought it necessary in the first place to 
 apologize, by saying they had all been over the hill in com- 
 pany with John Buffet to look at the ship, and were not yet 
 returned. It appeared that John Buffet, who was a seafaring 
 man, ascertained that the ship was a man of war, and, witliout 
 knowing exactly why, became so alarmed for the saiety of 
 Adams that he either could not or would not answer any of 
 the interrogations which were put to him. This mysterious 
 silence set all the party in tears, as they feared he had dis- 
 covered something adverse to their patriarch. At length his 
 obduracy yielded to their entreaties ; but before he explained 
 the cause of his conduct, the boats were seen to put off from 
 the ship, and Hannah immediately hurried to the beach to 
 kiss the old man*s cheek, which she did with a fervency demon- 
 strative of the warmest affection. Her apology for her com- 
 panions was rendered unnecessary by their appearance on the 
 steep and circuitous path down the mountain, who, as they 
 arrived on the beach, successively welcomed us to their is- 
 
800 PAIlilY's FOURTH VOYAGE 
 
 land, with a simplicity and sincerity which left no doubt of 
 the truth of their professions. 
 
 «* They almost all wore the cloth of the island : their dress 
 consisted of a petticoat, and a mantle loosely thrown over 
 their shoulders, and reaching to the ancles. Their stature was 
 rather above the common height; and their limbs, from being 
 accustomed to work and climb the hills, had acquired unusual 
 muscularity ; but their features and manners were perfectly 
 feminine. Their complexion, though fairer than that of the 
 men, was of a dark gipsey hue, but its deep colour was less 
 conspicuotis, by being contrasted with dark glossy hair, which 
 Iiung down over their shoulders in long waving tresses, nicely 
 oiled : in front it was tastefully turned back from the forehead 
 and temples, and was retained in that position by a chaplet of 
 small red or white aromatic blossoms newly gathered from the 
 flower-tree (morinda citrifolia), or from the tobacco plant ; 
 their countenances were lively and goodnatured, their eyes 
 dark and animated, and each possessed an enviable row of 
 teeth. Such was the agreeable impression of their first appear- 
 ance, which was heightened by the wish expressed simultane- 
 ously by the whole group, that we were come to stay several 
 days with them. As the sun was going down, we signified 
 our desire to get to the village and to pitch the observatory 
 before dark, and this was no sooner made known, than every 
 instrument and article found a carrier. 
 
 ** We took the only pathway which leads from the landing- 
 place to the village, and soon experienced the difficulties of 
 the ascent, which the distant appearance of the ground led 
 us to anticipate. To the natives, however, there appeared to 
 be no obstacles : women as well as men bore their burthens 
 over the most difficult parts without inconvenience ; while 
 we, obliged at times to have recourse to tufts of shrubs or grass 
 for assistance, experienced serious delay, being also incom- 
 moded by the heat of the weather, and swarms of horse-flies 
 which infe: t the island, and are said to have been imported 
 there by M. M. S. Briton. 
 
 "As soon as we had gained the first level, our party resttd 
 
TO THE ilORTH POLE. 801 
 
 on some large stones that lay half buried in long grass on one 
 side of a ravine, frorri which the blue sky was nearly concealed 
 by the overlapping branches of palm trees ; there, through the 
 medium of our female guides, who, furnished with the spread- 
 ing leaves of the tee-plant, drove away our troublesome perse- 
 cutors, we obtained a respite from their attacks. 
 
 *' Having refreshed ourselves, we resumed our journey 
 0VC4* a more easy path ; and after crossing two valleys, 
 filiaded by cocoa-nut trees, we arrived at the village. It 
 consisted of five houses, built upon a cleared piece of ground 
 sloping to the sea, and commanding a distant view of the ho- 
 rizon, through a break in an extensive wood of palms. While 
 the men assisted to pitch our tent, the women employed them- 
 selves in preparing our dinner, or more properly supper, as it 
 was eight o'clock at night. 
 
 *' The manner of cooking in Pitcairn island is similar to that 
 of Olaheite, which is thus : an oven is made in the ground, 
 sufficiently large to contain a good sized pig, and is lined 
 throughout with stones nearly equal in size, which have been 
 previously made as hot as possible. These are covered with 
 some broad leaves, generally of the tee-plant, and on them 
 is placed the meat. If it be a pig, its inside is lined with heat- 
 ed stones as well as the oven ; such vegetables as are to be 
 cooked are then placed round the animal, the whole is care- 
 fully covered with leaves of the tee, and buried beneath a heap 
 of earth, straw, or rushes and boughs, which, by a little use, 
 becomes matted into one mass. In about an hour and a quar- 
 ter the animal is sufficiently cooked, and is certainly more 
 tiioroughly done than it would be by a fire. 
 
 ** By the time the tent was up and the instruments secured, 
 we were summoned to a meal cooked in this manner, than 
 which a less sumptuous fare would have satisfied appetites 
 rendered keen by long abstinence and a tiresome journey. 
 Our party divided themselves that they might not crowd one 
 house in particular : Adams did not entertain ; but at Chris- 
 tian's I found a table spread with plates, knives and forks ; 
 which in so remote a part of the world, was an unexpected 
 sight. They were, it is true, far from uniform, but by one 
 
802 parry's fourth: voyage 
 
 article being appropriated for another we all found something 
 to put our portion upon ; and but few of the natives were 
 obliged to substitute their fingers for articles which are indis- 
 pensable to the comfort of more polished life. The smoking 
 pig, by a skilful dissection, was soon portioned to every guest, 
 but no one ventured to put its excellent qualities to the test 
 until a lengthened Amen, pronounced by ail the party, had 
 succeeded an emphatic grace delivered by the village parson. 
 ** Turn td'^ was then the signal for attack, and as it was con- 
 venient that all the party should finish their meal about the 
 same time, in order that one grace might serve for all, each 
 made the most of his time. In Pitcairn's island it is not deem- 
 ed proper to touch even a bit of bread without a grace before 
 and after it, and a person is accused of inconsistency if he 
 leaves off and begins again. So strict is their observance of 
 this form, that we do not know of any instance in which it has 
 been forgotten. On one occasion I had engaged Adams in 
 conversation, and he incautiously took the first mouthful with- 
 out having said his grace ; but before he had swallowed It he 
 recollected himself, and feeling as if he had committed a crime, 
 immediately put away what he had in his mouth, and com- 
 menced his prayer. 
 
 " Welcome cheer, hospitality, and good humour, were the 
 characteristics of the feast, and never was their beneficial in- 
 fluence more practically exemplified than on this occasion, by 
 the demolition of nearly all that was placed before us. With 
 the exception of some wine wo had brought with us, water 
 was the only beverage. This was placed in a large jug at one 
 end of the board, and when necessary, was passed round the 
 table. Three or four torches made with doo-doe nuts (abeu- 
 rites triloba), strung upon the fibres of a palm-leaf, were 
 stuck in tin- pots at the end of the tables, and formed an ex- 
 cellent substitute for candles, except that they gave a consi- 
 derable heat, and cracked, and fired, somewhat to the discom- 
 fiture of the person whose face was near them. 
 
 " Notwithstanding these deficiencies, we made a very com- 
 fortable and nearly supper, heard many little anecdotes of the 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 803 
 
 place, and derived much amusement from the singularity of 
 the inquiries of our host. One regret only intruded itself up- 
 on the general conviviality, which we did not fail to mention, 
 namely, that there was so wide a distinction between the sexes. 
 This was the remains of a custom very common among the 
 South-sea islands, which in some places is carried to such an 
 extent, that it imposes death upon the woman who shall eat 
 in the presence of her husband ; and though the distinction 
 between man and wife is not here carried to that extent, it is 
 still sufficiently observed to exclude all the women from table, 
 if there happens to be a deficiency of seats. In Pitcairn's 
 island, they have settled ideas of right and wrong, to which 
 they obstinately adhere ; and fortunately they have imbibed 
 them generally from the best source. 
 
 ** In the instance in question, they have, however, certainly 
 erred ; but of this they could not be persuaded, nor did tliey, 
 1 believe, thank us for our interference. Their argument was 
 that man was made first, and ought consequently, on all oc- 
 casions, to be served first ; a conclusion which deprived us of 
 the company of the women at table, during the whole of our 
 stay at the island. Far from considering themselves neglect- 
 ed, they very good naturedly chatted with us behind our seats 
 iind flapped away the flies, and by a gentle tap, accidentally 
 or playfully delivered, reminded us occasionally of the ho- 
 nour that was done us. The conclusion of our meal was 
 the signal for the women and children to prepare their own, 
 to whom we resigned our seats, and strolled out to enjoy the 
 freshness of the night. It was late by the time the women 
 Jiad finished, and we were not sorry when we were shown to 
 the beds prepared for us. The mattrass was composed of palm 
 leaves, covered with native cloth ; the sheets were of the same 
 material; and we knew, by the crackling of them, that they 
 were quite new from the loom, or beaten. The whole ar- 
 Bongement was extremely comfortable, and highly inviting to 
 repose, which the freshness of the apartment, rendered cool by 
 a free circulation of air through its sides, enabled us to enjoy 
 without any annoyance from heat or insects. One interrup- 
 
804 PAKRy's FOUUTII VOYAGE 
 
 tion only disturbed our first sleep; it was the pleasing melo- 
 dy of the evening hymn, which, after the lights were put out, 
 was chaunted by the whole family in the middle of the room. 
 In the morning also we were awoke by their morning hymn, 
 and family devotion. As we were much tired, and the sun's 
 rays had not yet found their way through the broad opening 
 of the apartment, we composed ourselves to rest again ; and 
 on awaking found that all the natives were gone to their se- 
 veral occupations,— the men to offer what assistance they could 
 to our boats in landing, carrying burthens for the seamen, or 
 to gather what fruits were in season. Some of the women had 
 taken our linen to wash ; those whose turn it was to cook for the 
 day were preparing the oven, the pig, and the yams ; and we 
 could hear by tlie distant reiterated strokes of the beater* that 
 others were engaged in the manufacture of cloth. By our bedside 
 had already been placed some ripe fruits ; and our hats were 
 crowned with chaplets of the fresh blossom of the nonoor flower- 
 tree (morinda citrifolid) which the women had gathered in the 
 freshness of the morning dew. 
 
 '* We assembled at breakfast about noon, the usual eating 
 hour of the natives, though they do not confine themselves 
 to that period exactly, but take their meal whenever it is suf-^ 
 ficiently cooked ; and afterwards availed ourselves of their 
 proffered services to show us the island, and under their guid^ 
 ance, first inspected the village and what lay in its immediate 
 vicinity. In an adjoining house we found two young girls 
 seated upon the ground, employed in the laborious exercise of 
 beating out the bark of the cloth-tree, which they intended 
 to present to us on our departure, as a keepsake. The ham^ 
 let consisted of five cottages, built more substantially than 
 neatly, upon a cleared patch of ground, sloping to the north- 
 ward, from the high land of the interior to the cliffs which 
 overhang the sea, of which the houses command a distant 
 view in a northern direction. In the N. E. quarter the hori- 
 zon may also be seen peeping between the stems of the lofty 
 
 * This is an instrument used for the manufacture of their cloth. 
 
TC THE KORTH POLE. 80j 
 
 pahns, whose graceful branches nod Hke ostrich plumes to 
 the refreshing trade-wind. To the northward, and north-west- 
 ward, thicker growths of palm trees rise in an impenetrable 
 wood, from two ravines which traverse the hills in various di- 
 rections to their summit. Above the one to the westward, a 
 lofty mountain rears its head, and toward the sea terminates 
 in a fearful precipice filled with caverns, in which the different 
 sea fowl find an undisturbed retreat. Immediately round the 
 village are the small enclosures for fattening pigs, goats, and 
 poultry ; and beyond them, the cultivated grounds producing 
 the banana, plantain, melon, yam, tare, sweet potatoes, appai, 
 tee, and cloth plant, with other useful roots, fruits, and shrubs, 
 which extend far up the mountain, and to the southward ; 
 but in this particular direction they are excluded from the 
 view by an immense banyan tree, two hundred paces in cir- 
 cumference, wliose foliage and branches form of themselves a 
 canopy impervious to the rays of the sun. Every cottage 
 has its outhouse for making cloth, its baking place , its sty, 
 and its poultry-house. 
 
 ** Within the enclosure of palm trees is the cemetry, where 
 the few persons who had died on the island, together with 
 those who met with violent deaths, are deposited. Besides 
 the houses above mentioned, there are three or four others 
 built upon the plantations beyond the palm groves. One of 
 these, situated higher up the hill than the village, belonged 
 to Adams, who had retired from the bustle of the hamlet to a 
 more quiet and sequestered sp^t to enjoy the advantages of an 
 elevated situation, so desirable in warm countries ; and in ad- 
 dition to these again, there are four other cottages to the east- 
 ward which belong to the Youngs and Quintals. 
 
 ** All these cottages are strongly built of wood in an oblong 
 form, and thatched with the leaves of the palm tree bent round 
 the stem of the same branch, and laced horizontally to rafters, 
 so placed as to give a proper pitch to the roof. The greater 
 part have an upper story, which is appropriated to sleep- 
 ing, and contains four beds built in the angles of the room, 
 each sufficiently large for three or four persons to lie on. 
 P. V. 34. 5L 
 
806 parry's fourth voyage 
 
 They are made of wood of the cloth-tree, and are raised 
 eigliteen inches above the floor; a mattress of palm leaves 
 is laid upon the planks, and above it three sheets of the cloth 
 plant, which form an excellent substitute for linen. 
 
 " The lower room generally contains one or more beds, but is 
 always used as their eating room, and has a broad table in 
 one part, with several stools placed round it. The floor is 
 elevated above a foot from the ground, and, as well as the 
 side of the house, is made of strong plank, and not of bamboo, 
 or stone, as stated by Captain Folger; indeed they have not 
 a piece of bamboo on the island, nor have they any mats. 
 The floor is a fixture, but the sideboards are let into a grove 
 m the supporters, and can be removed at pleasure, according 
 to the state of the weather, and the whole side may, if requir- 
 ed, be laid open, the lower room communicates with the upper 
 by a stout ladder in the centre, and leads up through a trap 
 door into the bed room. 
 
 " From the village several pathways (for roads there are 
 none) diverge, and generally lead into the valleys, which afford 
 a less difficult ascent to the upper part of the island than 
 the natural slope of the hills ; still "they are very rugged and 
 steep, and in the rainy season so slippery that it is almost 
 impossible for any person, excepting the natives, to traverse 
 them with safety. We selected one which led over the 
 mountain to the landing place, on the opposite side of the 
 island, and visited the several plantations upon the higher 
 grounds, which extend towards the mountains with a gentle 
 slope. Here the mutineers originally built their summer 
 houses, for the purpose of enjoying the breezes, and overlook- 
 ing the yam grounds, which are more productive than those 
 lower down. Near these plantations, are the remains of some 
 ancient morais ; and a spot is pointed out as the place where 
 Christian was first buried. By a circuitous, and to us, diffi- 
 cult path, we reached the ridge of the mountain, the height 
 of which is 1109 feet above the sea ; this is the highest part 
 of the island. The ridge extends in a north and south direc- 
 tion, and unites two small peaks : it is so narrow as to be in 
 
TO tim NoatH I'OLE. 807 
 
 many parts scarcely three feet wide, and forms a dangerous 
 pass between two fearful precipices. The natives were so 
 accustomed to chmb these crags that they unconcernedly 
 skipped from point to point like the hunters of chamois ; and 
 voung Christian actually jumped upon the very peak of a 
 cliff, which was so smalt as to be scarcely sufficient for his 
 feet to rest upon, and from which any other person would 
 have shuddered even to look down upon the beach, lying 
 many hundred feet at its base. At the northern extremity 
 of this ridge is a cave of some interest, as being the intended 
 retreat of Christian, in the event of a landing being effected 
 by any ship sent in pursuit of him, and where he resolved to 
 sell his life as dearly as he could. In this recess he always 
 kept a store of provisions, and near it erected a small hut, 
 well concealed by trees, which served the purpose of a watch- 
 house. So difficult vvas the approach to this cave, that even 
 if the party were successful in crossing the riiigc, as long as 
 liis ammunition lasted, he might have bid defiance to any force. 
 An unfrequented and dangerous path leads from this place to 
 a peak which commands a view of the western and southern 
 coasts : at this height, on a clear day, a perfect map of the 
 bottom is exhibited by the different coloured waters. On all 
 points the island is terminated by cliffs, or rocky projections, 
 off which He scattered numerous fra^i^ments of rock, risinjy 
 like so many black pinnacles amid the surf, which on all sides 
 rolls in upon the shore. 
 
 ** V\^e descended by a less abrupt slope than that by which we 
 advanced, and took our way through yam grounds to a ra- 
 vine which brought us to the villages. The path leading 
 down this ravine is, in many places, so precipitous, that we 
 were constantly in danger of slipping and rolling into the depths 
 below, which the assistance of the natives alone prevented. 
 
 "While we were thus borrowing help from others, and grasp- 
 ing every tuft of grass and bough that offered its friendly 
 support, we were overtaken by a group of chubby little 
 children trudging unconcernedly on, munching a water melon, 
 and balancing on their heads calabashes of water, which they 
 
808 parry's fourth voyage 
 
 had brought from the opposite side of the island. They 
 smiled at our helplessness as they passed, and we felt their 
 innocent reproof ; but we were still unpractised in such feats, 
 while they, from being trained to them, had acquired a foot- 
 ing and a firmness which habit alone can produce. It was 
 dark when we reached the houses, but we found by a whoop 
 which echoed through the woods, that we were not the last 
 from home. This whoop, peculiar to the place, is so shrill, 
 that it may be heard half over the island, and the ear of ihe 
 natives is so quick that they will catch it when we could dis- 
 tinguish nothing of the kind. By the tone in which it is 
 delivered, they also know the wants of the person, and who 
 it is. These shrill sounds^ which we had just heard, informed 
 vis, and those who were at the village, that a party had lost 
 their way in the woods. A blazing beacon was immediately 
 made, whi<:hj together with a few more whoops to direct the^ 
 party, soon brought the absentees home. Their perfection in 
 these signals will be manifest from the following anecdote : 
 i was one day crossing the mountain which intersects the" 
 island with Christian ; we bad not long parted with their 
 whale boat on the western side of the island, and were descend- 
 ing a ravine amidst a thicket of trees, when he turned round 
 and said, ' the whale boat is come round to Bounty Bay ;' at 
 which I Was not a little surprised^ as I had heard nothing, 
 and we could not see through the wood, but he said he heard 
 the signal ; and when we got down it proved to be the case. 
 
 *' In this little retreat there is not much variety, and the 
 description of one day's occupation serves equally for its 
 successor. The dance is a recreation very rarely indulged 
 in ; but as we particularly requested it, they would not refuse 
 to gratify us. 
 
 "A large room in Quintal's house was prepared for the 
 occasion, and the company were ranged on one side of the 
 apartment, glowing beneath a blazing string of doodoe nuts ; 
 the musicians were on the other j under the direction of 
 Arthur Quintal. He was seated upon the ground, as head 
 musician, and had before him a large gourd, and a piece of 
 
To THE NORTH POLE. 809 
 
 musical Wood (poroti), which he balanced nicely upon his 
 loes, that there might be the less interruption tu its vibrations. 
 He struck the instrument alternately with two sticks, and was 
 accompanied by Dolly, who performed very skilfully with 
 both baftds upon a gourd, which had a longitudinal hole cut 
 in one end of it ; rapidly beating the orifice with the palms 
 of hef hands, and releasing it again with uncommon dexterity, 
 so as to produce a tattoo, but in perfect time with the other 
 instrument. A third performed upon the Bounty's old cop- 
 per fish kettle, which formed a sort of bass. To this ex- 
 iiilarating music, three grown-up females stood up to dance, 
 but with a reluctance which showed it was done only to oblige 
 us, as they consider such performances an inroad upon their 
 usual innocent pastimes. The figure consisted of such parts 
 of the Otaheitan dance as were thought most decorous, and 
 was little more than a shuffling of the feet, sliding past each 
 other, and snapping their fingers ; but even this produced, 
 at times, considerable laughter from the female spectators, 
 perhaps from some association of ridiculous ideas, which we, 
 as strangers, did not feel ; and no doubt had our opinion of 
 the performance been consulted, it would have essentially 
 differed from their*s. They did not long continue these 
 diversions, from an idea that it was too great a levity to be 
 continued long ; and only the three before mentioned ladies 
 could be prevailed upon to exhibit their skill. One of the 
 officers, with a view of contributing to the mirth of the colo- 
 nists, had obligingly brought his violin on shore, and, as an 
 inducement for them to dance again, offered to play some 
 country dances and reels, if they would proceed ; but they 
 could not be tempted to do so. They however, solicited a 
 specimen of the capabilities of the instrument, which was 
 granted, and, though very well executed, did not give the 
 satisfaction which we anticipated. They had not yet arrived 
 at a state of refinement to appreciate harmony, but were 
 highly delighted with the rapid motion of the fingers, and 
 always liked to be within sight of the instrument when it was 
 played. They were afterwards heard to say, that they pre- 
 
C^IO PARRY S lOUUTll VUYAGE 
 
 ferred their own simple musical contrivance to the violin. 
 They did not appear to have the least ear for music : one of 
 the officers took considerable pains to teach them the hun- 
 dredth psalm, that they might not chaunt all the psalms and 
 hymns to the same air; but they did not evince the least ap- 
 titude or desire to learn it. 
 
 '* The following day was devoted to the completion of our 
 view of the island, of which the natives were anxious we 
 should see every part. We accordingly set out with the same 
 guides by a road which brought us to * the rope,* a steep 
 cliff, so called from its being necessary to descend it by a rope. 
 It is situated at the eastern end of the island, and overlooks a 
 small sandy bay lined with rocks, which render it dangerous 
 for a boat to attempt to land there. At the foot of * the 
 rope' were found some stone axes, and a hone, the manufac- 
 ture of the Aborigines, and upon the face of a large rock were 
 some characters very rudely engraved, which we copied ; they 
 appeared to have been executed by the Bounty's people, 
 though Adams did not recollect it. To the left of ' the rope* 
 is a peak of considerable height, overlooking Bounty Bay. 
 Upon this eminence the mutineers, on their arrival, found 
 four images, about six feet in height, placed upon a platform ; 
 and, according to Adams' description, not unlike the morais 
 at Easter Island, excepting that they were upon a much smal- 
 ler scale. One of these images, which had been preserved, 
 was a rude representation of the human figure to the hips, 
 and was hewn out of a piece of red lava. 
 
 " Near this supposed morai, we were told that human bones 
 and stone hatchets were occasionally dug up, but we could 
 find only two bones, by which we might judge of the stature 
 of the Aborigines. These were an os femoris and a part of a 
 cranium of an unusual size and thickness. The hatchets, o^ 
 which we obtained several specimens, were made of a compact 
 basaltic lava, not unlike clinkstone, very hard and capable of 
 a fine polish. In shape they resemble those used atOtaheite, 
 and by all the islanders of those seas that I have seen. A 
 large stone bowl was also found, similar to those used at Ota- 
 
TO Til R NORTH POLE. 811 
 
 lieite, and two stone huts. Tlmt this island should have been 
 inhabited is not extraordinary, when it is remembered that 
 Easter Island, which is much more distant from the eastern 
 world, was so, though nothing is known of the fate of the 
 people. 
 
 " From these images, and the large piles of stones on heights 
 to which they must have been dragged with great labour, it 
 may be concluded that the island was inhabited a considerable 
 time; and from bones being found always buried under these 
 piles, and never upon the surface, we may presume that those 
 who survived quitted the island in their canoes to seek an 
 asylum elsewhere. 
 
 " Having this day seen every part of the island, we had no 
 further desire to ramble ; and as the weather did not promise 
 to be very fair, I left the observatory in the charge of Mr. 
 Wolfe, and embarked, accompanied by old Adams. Soon af- 
 ter he came on board it began to blow, and for several days 
 afterwards the wind prevented any communication with the 
 shore. The natives during this period were in great appre- 
 hension ; they went to the top of the island every morning 
 to look for the ship, and once, when she was not to be seen, 
 began to entertain the most serious doubts whether Adams 
 would be returned to them ; but he, knowing we should close 
 the island as soon as the weather would permit, was rather glad 
 of the opportunity of staying on board, and of again associa- 
 ting with his countrymen. 
 
 ** On the 16 th, the weather permitted a boat to be sent on 
 shore, and Adams was restored to his anxious friends. Pre- 
 vious to his quitting the ship, he said, it would add much to 
 his happiness if I would read the marriage ceremony to him and 
 his wife, as he could not bear the idea of living with her without 
 Its being done. He had long wished for the arrival of a ship of 
 war to set his conscience at rest on that point. Though 
 Adams was aged, and the old woman had been blind and bed- 
 ridden for several years, he made such a point of it, that it 
 would have been cruel to refuse him. They were according- 
 
812 PARRY S FOURTH VOYAGE 
 
 \y the next day duly united, and the event noted in a regis- 
 ter by John Buffet. 
 
 " The islanders were delighted at having us again among 
 them, and expressed themselves in the warmest terms. We soon 
 found, through our intercourse with these excellent people, 
 that they had no wants excepting such as had been created by 
 an intercourse with the vessels, which had from time to time 
 supplied them with European articles. Nature has been ex- 
 tremely bountiful to them ; and necessity has taught them 
 how to apply her gifts to their own particular uses. Still 
 they have before them the prospect of an increasing popular 
 tion, with limited means of supporting it. Almost everv part 
 of the island capable of cultivation has been turned to ac- 
 count; but what would have been the consequences of this 
 increase, had not an accident discovered their situation, it is not 
 difficult to foresee ; and a reflecting mind will naturally trace 
 in that disclosure, the benign interference of the same hand 
 which has raised such a virtuous colony from so guilty a stock. 
 Adams having contemplated the situation which the islanders 
 would have been reduced to, begged, at our first interview, 
 that I would communicate with the government upon the 
 subject, which was done; and I am happy to say, that, 
 through the interference of the Admiralty and Colonial Of- 
 fice, means have been taken for removing them to any place 
 they may choose for themselves and a liberal supply of use- 
 ful articles has recently been sent to them. [It is said that 
 they have since changed their minds, and are at present con- 
 tented with their situation.] 
 
 " Some books of travels which were left from time to time 
 on the island, and the accounts they had heard of foreign 
 countries from their visitors, had created in the islanders a 
 strong desire to travel ; so much so, that they one day under- 
 took a voyage in their whale boat to an island which they learnt 
 was not very far distant from their own ; but fortunately for 
 them, as the compass on which they relied, (one of the old 
 Bounty's) was so rusty as to be quite useless, their curiosity 
 
TO THE NOETH POLE. 8l3 
 
 3fielded to discretion, and they returned before they lost sight 
 of their native soil. 
 
 " The idea of passing all their days upon an island only two 
 miles long, without seeing any thing of the world, or, what 
 was a stronger argument, without doing any good in it, had 
 with several been deeply considered. But family ties, and an 
 ardent affection for each other, and for their native soil, had 
 always interposed to prevent their going away singly. George 
 Adams, however, having no wife to detain him, but, on the 
 contrary, reasons for wishing to employ his thoughts on sub- 
 jects foreign to his home, was very anxious to embark in the 
 Blossom ; and I would have acceded to his wishes, had not 
 bis mother wept bitterly at the idea of parting from him, and 
 imposed terms touching his return to the island, to which I 
 could not accede. It was a sore disappointment to poor George, 
 whose case forms a striking instance of the rigid manner in 
 which these islanders observe their word. 
 
 ** Wives upon Pictairn Island, it may be imagined, are very 
 scarce, as the same restrictions with regard to relationship ex- 
 ist as in England. George in his early days, had fallen in 
 love with Polly Young, a girl a little older than himself; but 
 Polly, probably at that time liking some one else, and being 
 at the age when young ladies* expectations are at the highest, 
 had incautiously said, she never would give her hand to George 
 Adams. He, nevertheless, indulged a hope that she would 
 one day relent ; and to this end was unremitting in his en- 
 deavours to please her. In this expectation he was not mis- 
 taken ; his constancy and attention, and, as he grew into 
 manhood, his handsome form, softened Polly's heart into a re- 
 gard for him, and, had nothing passed before, she would wil- 
 lingly have given him her hand. But the vow of her youth 
 was not to be got over, and the love-sick couple languished on 
 from day to day, victims to the folly of early resolutions. 
 The weighty case was referred for our consideratio'n ; and the 
 fears of the party were in some measure relieved by the re- 
 sult, which was, that it would be much better to marry than 
 to continue unhappy, in consequence of a hasty determination, 
 
 5M 
 
.Sl4 faery's fourth VaYACE 
 
 made before the judgment was matured ; tliey could not, how- 
 ever, be prevailed on to yield to our decision, and we left 
 them unmarried.* 
 
 Another instance of a rigid performance of promise was 
 exemplified in old Adams, who is anxious that his own con- 
 duct should form an example to the rising generation. In 
 the course of conversation, he one day said he would accom- 
 pany me up the mountain, if there was nobody else near ; 
 and it so happened, that on the only day 1 had leisure to go 
 the young men were all out of the way. Adams, therefore, 
 Insisted upon performing his engagement, though the day 
 was extremely hot, and the journey was much too laborious, 
 in any weather, for his advanced period of life* He never- 
 theless set out, adding, *' i said I would go, and so I will ; 
 befiiides, without example precept will have but little efFect.*" 
 At tfae first valley he threw off his hat, handkerchief, and 
 jacket, and left them by the side of the path ; at the second 
 his trowsers were cast aside into a bush ; and had he been 
 alone, or provided with a maro, his shirt would certainly have 
 followed : thus disencumbered, he boldly led the way, which 
 was well known to him in earlier days ; but it was so long 
 since he had trodden it, that we met with many difficulties. 
 At length we reached the top of the ridge, which we were 
 informed was the place were M*Coy and Quintal had appeared 
 in defiance of the Wacks. Adams felt so fatigued that he was 
 now glad to lie down. The breeze here blew so hard and 
 cold, that a shirt alone was of little use, and had he not been 
 inured to all the changes of atmosphere, the sudden transition 
 upon his aged frame must have been fatal. 
 
 " During the period we remain^ upon the island, we were 
 entertained at the board of the natives, sometimes dining with 
 one person, and sometimes with another : their meals, as I 
 have before stated, were not confined to hours, and always 
 consisted of baked pig, yams, and taro, and more rarely of 
 g'weet potatoes. 
 
 *' The productions of the island being very limited, and 
 
 * They Ibare aface been united and have two children. 
 
TO THE NORTH POfcE. i 8t5 
 
 intercourse with the rest of the world much restricted, it may 
 be readily supposed their meals cannot be greatly varied. 
 However, they do their best with what they have, and cook 
 it in different ways, the pig excepted, which is always baked.. 
 There are several goats upon the island, but they dislike their 
 flesh, as well as their milk. Yams constitute their principal 
 iood ; these are boiled, baked, or made into pillipey (cakes), 
 by being mixed with cocoa nuts ; or bruised and formed into 
 a soup. Bananas are mashed, and made into pancakes, or,, 
 like the yam, united with the milk of the cocoa nut, into pilli- 
 pey, and eaten with molasses,, extracted from the tee root. 
 The taro root, by being rubbed, makes a very good substitute 
 for bread, as well as the bananas, plantains, and appai. 
 Their common beverage is pure water, but they made i\yr us 
 a tea, extracted from the tee-plant, flavoured witli ginger, and 
 sweetened with the juice of the sugar cane. When alone, 
 this beverage and fowl soup are used only for such as are ill. 
 They seldom kill a pig, but live mostly upon fruit and vege- 
 tables. The duty of saying grace was performed by John 
 Buffet, a recent settler among them, and their clergyman, but 
 if he was not present, it fell upon the eldest of the company. 
 They have all a great dislike to spirits, \n cwisequence of. 
 M*Coy having killed himself by too free an indulgence in it ;.. 
 but wine in moderation is never refused. With this simple 
 diet, and being in the daily habit of rieing early, and 
 taking a great deal of exercise in the cultivation of their 
 grounds, it was not surprising that we found them so athletic 
 and free from complaints. When illness does occur, their 
 remedies are as simple as their manner of living, and are 
 limited to salt water, hot ginger tea, or abstinence, according 
 to the nature of the complaint. They have no medicines, nor 
 do they ai>pear to require any, as these remedies have hither- 
 to been found sufficient. 
 
 ** After their noontide meal, if their grounds do not require 
 their attention and the weather be fine, they go a little way 
 out to sea in their canoes, and catch fish, of which they have 
 several kinds, large and sometimes in abundance ; but it sel- 
 
016' 
 
 FOURTH VOYAGE 
 
 dom happens that they have this time to spare ; for the 
 cultivation of the ground, repairing their boats, houses^ and 
 making fishing-lines, with other employments, generally occupy 
 the whole of each day. At sunset they assemble at prayers 
 as before, first offering their orisons and thanksgiving, and 
 then chaunting hymns. After this follows their evening meal, 
 and, at an early hour, having again said their prayers, and 
 chaunted the evening hymn, they retire to rest ; but before 
 they sleep, each person again offers up a short prayer upon 
 his bed. 
 
 " Such is the distribution of time among the grown people i 
 the younger part attend at school at regular hours, and are 
 instructed in reading, writing and arithmetic. They have 
 very fortunately found an able and willing master in John 
 Buffet, who belonged to a ship which visited the island, and 
 was so infatuated with their behaviour, being himself naturally 
 of a devout and serious turn of mind, that he resolved to 
 remain among them ; and, in addition to the instruction of the? 
 children, has taken upon himself the duty of clergyman, and 
 is ^the oracle of the community.* During the whole time I 
 was with them, I never heard them indulge in a joke, or other 
 levity, and the practice of it is apt to give offence ; they are 
 so accustomed to take what is said in its literal meaning, that 
 irony was always considered a falsehood, in spite of explana* 
 tion. They could not see the propriety of uttering what was 
 not strictly true for any purpose whatever. 
 
 " The sabbath-day is devoted entirely to prayer, reading, 
 and serious meditation. No boat is allowed to quit the shore, 
 nor any work whatever to be done, cooking excepted, for 
 which preparation is made the preceding evening. I attended 
 their church on this day, and found the service well conducted ; 
 the prayers were read by Adams, and lessons by Buffet, the 
 service being preceded by hymns. The greatest devotion was 
 apparent in every individual, and in the children there was a 
 seriousness unknown in the younger part of our communities 
 
 * Another seaman has settled amongst them, and is married to one of 
 Adams' daughters ; but he is not liked. 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE- 817 
 
 at home, f n the course of the litany they prayed for their 
 sovereign and all the royal family with much apparent loyalty 
 and sincerity. Some family prayers, which were thought ap- 
 propriate to their particular case, were added to the usual ser- 
 vice ; and Adams, fearful of leaving out any essential part, read 
 in addition all those prayers which are intended only as sub- 
 stitutes for others, A sermon followed, which was very well 
 delivered by Buffet ; and lest any part of it should be forgot- 
 ten or escape attention, it was read three times. The whole 
 concluded with hymns, which were first sung by the grown 
 people, and afterwards by the children. The service thus 
 performed was very long ; but the neat and cleanly appearance 
 of the congregation, the devotion that animated every coun- 
 tenance, and the innocence and simplicity of the little children, 
 prevented the attendance from being wearisome. In about 
 half an hour afterwards we again assembled to prayers, and 
 at sunset service was repeated ; so that, with their morning 
 and evening prayers, they may be said to have church five 
 times on a sunday. 
 
 " Marriages and christenings are duly performed by Adams. 
 A ring which has united every person on the island is used 
 for the occasion, and given according to the prescribed form. 
 The age at which this is allowed to take place, with the men, 
 is after they have reached their twentieth, and with the women, 
 their eighteenth year. 
 
 *' All which remains to be said of these excellent people is, 
 that they appear to live together in perfect harmony and con- 
 tentment; to be virtuous, religious, cheerful and hospitable; 
 to be patterns of conjugal and parental affection, and to have 
 very few vices. We remained with them many days, and 
 their unreserved manners gave us the fullest opportunity of 
 becoming acquainted with any faults they might have 
 possessed. 
 
 <' In the equipment of the Blossom a boat was built pur- 
 posely for her by Mr. Peake of Woolwich dock-yard, upon 
 a model highly creditable to his profession able ability, and 
 finished in the most complete manner. As we were now 
 about to enter a sea crowded with islands which rise abruptly 
 
j8I8 parry's fourth voyage 
 
 to the surface, without any soundings to give warning of their 
 vicinity, this Httle vessel was likely to be of the greatest ser- 
 vice, not only in a minute examination of the shore, but by 
 being kept ahead of the ship during the night, to give notice 
 of any danger that might lie in her route. She was accord- 
 in Mv hoisted out while we were off this island, and stowed and 
 provisioned for six weeks. I gave the command of her to 
 Mn Elson, the master, an officer well qualified to perform 
 the service 1 had in view ; having with him Mr. R. Beechey, 
 midshipman, and a crew of eight seamen and marines. In- 
 structions were given to Mr Elson for his guidance, and pro- 
 per rendezvous appointed in case of separation. We first 
 experienced the utility of this excellent sea boat, in bringing 
 off water from the shore through seas which in ordinary cases 
 would have proved serious obstacles ; and had there not been 
 so much surf upon the rocks, that the casks could only be 
 got through it by the natives swimming out with them, we 
 should in a short time have completed our stock of water. 
 This process, however, was very harassing to them, who, be- 
 sides this arduous task, had to bring the water from a distance 
 in calabashes ; so that, with the utmost despatch, our daily 
 supply scarcely equalled the consumption, and we were com- 
 pelled to trust to the hope of being more fortunate at some 
 other island. 
 
 ** During the period of our stay in the vicinity of the island 
 we scarcely saw the sun, and I began to despair of being able 
 to fix our position with sufficient accuracy. On the 20tli, 
 however, the clouds cleared away, and the night was passed 
 in obtaining lunar distances with stars east and west of the 
 moon, several meridional altitudes and transits, which, com- 
 pared with those taken the first night the instrument was put 
 up, gave good rates to the chronometers. Our labours having 
 thus terminated more successfully than we expected, we hast- 
 ened our embarkation, which took place on the 21st. In re- 
 turn for the kindness we experienced from the islanders, we 
 made them presents of articles the most useful t6 them which 
 we could spare, and they were furnished wiih a blue cloth 
 
TO THE NORTH POLK. 8l9 
 
 suit each from the extra clothing put on board for the ship's 
 company, and the women with several pieces of gowns and 
 handkerchiefs, &c. 
 
 . ** When we were about to take leave, our friends assembled 
 to express their regret at our departure. All brought some 
 little present for our acceptance, which they wished us to 
 keep in remembrance of them ; after which they accompanied 
 us to the beach, where we took our leave of the female part 
 of the inhabitants. Adams and the young men pushed off in 
 their own boat to the ship, determined to accompany us to sea 
 as far as they could with safety. They continued on board, 
 unwilling to leave us, until we were a considerable distance 
 from land, when they shook each of us feelingly by the 
 hand, and, amidst expressions of the deepest concern at our 
 departure, wished us a prosperous voyage, and hoped that we 
 might one day meet again. As soon as they were clear of the 
 ship they all stood up in their boat, and gave us three hearty 
 cheers, which were as heartily returned. As the weather be- 
 came foggy, the barge towed them towards the shore, and we 
 took a final leave of them, unconscious until the moment of 
 separation of the warm interest their situation and good con- 
 duct had created in us." 
 
 The Pitcairn islanders are tall, robust, and healthy. Their 
 average height is five feet ten inches ; the tallest person is six 
 feet and a quarter of an inch, and the shortest of the adults 
 is five feet nine inches and one eighth. Their limbs are well 
 proportioned, round, and straight ; their feet turning a little 
 inwards. The boys promise to be equally as tall as their fa- 
 thers ; one of them whom we measured was, at eight years of 
 age, tour feet one inch ; and another, at nine years, four feet 
 tbree inches. Their simple food and early habits of exercise 
 give them a muscular power and activity not often surpassed. 
 It is recorded among the feats of strength which these people 
 occasionally evince, that two of the strongest on the island, 
 George Young and Edward Quintal, have each carried, at one 
 time, without inconvenience, a kedge anchor, two sledge ham- 
 mers, and an armourer's anvil, amounting to upv^ards of six 
 
820 
 
 hundred weight ; and that Quintal, at another time, carried 
 a boat twenty-eight feet in length. In the water they are al- 
 most as much at home as on land, and can remain nearly a 
 whole day in the sea. They frequently swam round their 
 little island, the circuit of which is at the least seven miles. 
 When the sea beat heavily on the island they have plunged 
 into the breakers and swam to sea beyond them. This they 
 sometimes did, pushing a barrel of water before them, when 
 it could be got off in no other way, and in this manner several 
 tons of water were conveyed to the ship without a single cask 
 being stove. 
 
 As soon as Adams and his party quitted the ship, they spread 
 every «ail in prosecution of their voyage, landing at various 
 islands in making their passage to Otaheite, which they reached 
 on the 18th of March, and where Captain Beechey purposed 
 remaining a few weeks to recruit the health of the crew, who were 
 somewhat debiUtated. Here they passed many pleasant days 
 in the enjoyment of the society of the residents, and of the 
 scenery of the country, and on the 26th of April took their 
 departure and proceeded on their voyage. On the 20th of 
 May, they came to an anchor outside the reefs of Honoruro, 
 the principal port of the Sandwich islands. Their passage 
 from Otaheite to this place had been so rapid, that the con- 
 trast between the two countries was particularly striking. At 
 Woahoo the eye searches in vain for the green and shady 
 forests skirting the shore which enliven the scene at Otaheite. 
 The whole country has a parched and comparatively barren 
 aspect ; and it is not until the heights are gained and the ex- 
 tensive ranges of taro plantations are seen filling every valley, 
 that strangers learn why this island was distinguished by the 
 name of the garden of the Sandwich islands. The difference 
 between the appearance of the natives of Woahoo and Otaheite 
 is not less conspicuous than that of the scenery. Constant 
 exposure to the sun has given them a dark complexion 
 and a coarseness of feature which do not exist in the 
 Society islands ; and their countenances, moreover, have a 
 wildness of expression which at first misleads the eye ; but this 
 
TO THE KORTH POLE. 83 1 
 
 very soon wears off, and their manliness of character creates a 
 respect which the effeminacy of the Otaheitans never inspires. 
 As the ship passed up the harbour, the forts, the cannon and 
 the ensign displayed upon the ramparts of the fort, which 
 mounted forty guns, and at the gaff of a man-of-war brig 
 and some other vessels, rendered the distinction between 
 the two countries still more evident ; and on landing, the 
 marked attention to etiquette and the respect shewn by the 
 subjects to their chiefs, offered a similar contrast. In every 
 way this country seemed far to surpass the other in civiliza- 
 tion. 
 
 It was not long since Lord Byron in the Blonde had quit- 
 ted these islands ; the appearance of a man-of-war was, there- 
 fore no novelty ; but the beach was thronged to excess with 
 people of all distinctions, who behaved in a very orderly man- 
 ner, helped the people out of the boats, and made a passage 
 for their advance. The superiority of this country over the 
 Otaheitans was strickingly marked by the number of wooden 
 houses, the regularity of the town, laid out in squares, inter- 
 sected by streets properly fenced in, and the many notices 
 which appeared on pie,ces of board, stating that there was an 
 ordinary at one o* clock, Billiards, the Jolly Tar, &c. After 
 a short walk they came to a neatly built wooden house with glass 
 windows, the residence of Krimakoo, or as he was commonly 
 called, Pito. He was at this time suffering under a dropsical 
 complaint, under which he ultimately sunk. This disease 
 had so increased upon him of late, that he had undergone five 
 operations for it since the departure of the Blonde. Though 
 unable to rise from his bed, his mind was active and unim- 
 Daired, and when the conversation turned upon the affairs of 
 the island he was quite energetic, legretting that his confine- 
 ment prevented his looking more into them. He expressed a 
 strong attachment to the British government, and his grati- 
 tude for the respect that had been shewn the descendant of 
 his illustrious patron and his queen, by sending their bodies 
 to the Sandwich islands in so handsome a manner, and also 
 for the footing upon which the affairs of the state had been 
 
 P. V. 35. 5N 
 
822 PAHRy's FOUIMII voyac.e 
 
 placed by lord Byron. He was anxious to requite these 
 favours, and expressed hi3 desire to be allowed to supply all the 
 demands of the ship himself, in requital for the liberality 
 with which his countrymen were treated in England. A re- 
 quest which Captain Beechey thought it his duty to decline 
 accepting. The young king, who had been taking an airing, 
 repeated the same sentiments and made many enquires after 
 his friends in the Blonde. Boki was absent at Owyhee at- 
 tending his sister, who was dangerously ill. Madam Boki 
 and other chiefs who were of the party in England, were all 
 anxious to manifest their civility and spoke of England in 
 terms that manifested their strong sense of the kind treatment 
 they experienced there. 
 
 'J'he reception was friendly in the extreme ; all their wants 
 as far as possible were supplied, but unfortunately there was 
 this year a scarcity of almost every kind of production. 
 Their expectation of replenishing the ehip's provisions was con- 
 sequently disappointed. As the time of their departure drew on, 
 Mr. Lay, who had been long severely afflicted with dysentery 
 continued so extremely ill, that it was resolved to leave him 
 at this island under the protection of Pito, whose kindness on 
 the occasion nothing could exceed. 
 
 On the 31si of May, they took their leave of Woahoo, and 
 proceeded to Oneehow, where they took on board as many 
 yams as the natives could collect before sun-set, and then 
 they bhaped their course for Kamschatka. On the l3th of June 
 they spoke with the Tuscan, an English whale-ship. The 
 master of the Tuscan stated that the preceding year his ship's 
 company had been so severely afflicted with disease that he 
 found it necessary to put into Loo Choo, where he was well 
 received and his people treated with the greatest kindness. 
 
 On the twenty-sixth, in latitude 49** N. after having tra- 
 versed nearly seven hundred miles in so thick a fog that they 
 could scarcely see the distance of fifty yards, a north-east wind 
 cleared the horizon for a few hours. The next day they had 
 the satisfaction of seeing the high mountains of Kamscbatka. 
 Nothing could surpass the serenity of the evening or the mag- 
 
TO THE NORTH rOLK. 823 
 
 nificence of the mountains capped with perennial snows, rising 
 in nmjestic array above each other. At two o'clock the follow- 
 inir afternoon, they anchored off the town of Petropaulski, 
 and found lying in the inner harbour his Imperial Majesty's 
 ship Modeste, commanded by Baron Wrangle, an enterprising 
 officer, well known to the world as the commander of a ha- 
 zardous expedition on sledges over the ice to the northward 
 of Schelatskoi Noss. 
 
 Captain Beechey here found despatches awaiting his arri- 
 val communicating the return of the expedition under Captain 
 Parry, and consequently directing Captain Beechey to cancel 
 such instructions as related to him. The oflicers on landing, 
 met with a very polite reception from the governor, Stanitski, 
 a captain in the Russian navy, who during the short stay they 
 made in port, laid them under obligations for articles of the 
 most acceptable kind to seamen after a long voyage. Captain 
 Beechey was at this time confined to his cabin by illness, which 
 prevented his attention to the governor and also to the pastor 
 of Paratounka, who was the grandson of the person who filletl 
 that situation when Captain Cook visited this place, and who 
 had lain an injunction upon his successors that they should 
 send a calf to the captain of every English man-of-war that 
 might arrive in this port. This injunction the present pastor 
 conscientiously fulfilled, and sent a calf of his own rearing, 
 and also daily supplies of milk, butter and curds. 
 
 On the first of July they weighed and attempted to put to 
 sea, but were obliged to anchor again, and that at too great a 
 distance from the town to have any communication. On the 
 second, and also on the third, they also weighed, but were 
 obliged to anchor as before ; and it was not until the fifth, after 
 weighing and anchoring twice that morning to prevent going 
 on shore, that the ship reached the outside of the hnrbour. A 
 light air afterwards favoured their departure, and they suc- 
 ceeded in getting an offing. 
 
 The object of Captain Beechey now was to make the best 
 of his w^y to Kotzebue Sound, as there were but fourteen 
 days to the time appointed for the rendezvous there. Losing 
 
8'24 PARRY S JTOURTII VOYAGE 
 
 sight of Kamscliatka in a thick fog, on the tenth they came in 
 sio-ht of Behring's Island. The snow rested in ridges upon 
 the hills, but the lower parts of the island were quite bare, 
 and presented a green mossy appearance, without a single shrub 
 to relieve its monotony. Its dreary aspect, associated with the 
 recollection of the catastrophe that befel Behring and his ship- 
 mates, who were cast upon its shores on the approach of win- 
 ter, with their own resources exhausted, produced an involun- 
 tary shudder. The bay in which this catastrophe occurred is 
 on the north side of the island, on a part of the coast which 
 fortunately afforded fresh water, and abounded in stone foxes, 
 sea otters, and raoor^hens ; and where there was a quantity of 
 drift wood washed upon the shore, which served for the con- 
 struction of huts : but notwithstanding these resources, the 
 commander, Vitus Behring^ and twenty-nine of the crew found 
 their graves on this desolate spot. The rock first seen was 
 situated five miles and a half off' shore, and was so crowded 
 with seals basking upon it, that it was named Seal rock. 
 
 Arriving off St. Lawrence island^ they stood close into a 
 small bay at the S. W. angle of the island, where they per- 
 ceived several tents, and where, from the many stakes driven 
 into the ground, they concluded this was a fishing station. 
 The natives soon afterwards launched four boats or baidars, 
 each of which contained eight persons, males and females. 
 Tiiey paddled towards the ship with great quickness, until 
 they were within speaking distance, when an old man who 
 steered the foremost boat stood erect, and held up in succes- 
 sion nets, walrus teeth, skin shirts, harpoons, bows and arrows, 
 and small birds ; he then extended his arms, rubbed and pat- 
 ted his breast, and came fearlessly alongside. They had the 
 features and appearance of the Esquimaux. They were if 
 any thing less dirty and somewhat fairer, and their imple- 
 ments were better made. Their dress, though Esquimaux, 
 differed a little from it in the skin shirts being ornamented 
 with tassals, after the manner of the Oonalashka people, and 
 in the boots fitting the leg, instead of being adapted to the 
 reception of either oil or infants. They were accomplislit?d 
 
to THE NORTH POLBi 8^5 
 
 adepts in bartering, and sold almost every thing they had. 
 About seven o'clock in the evening the natives quitted them 
 rather abruptly, and hastened towards the shore, in consequence 
 of an approaching fog, which their experience enabled theiu 
 to foresee sooner than the people on board the Blossom. 
 
 The extremities of the two great continents were now dis- 
 tinctly seen. Near the Asiatic shore they found a sandy bot- 
 tom ; but on crossing over the strait it changed to mud, until 
 well over on the American side, where they passed a tongue of 
 sand and stones in twelve fathoms. After crossing it the wa- 
 ter deepened, and the bottom again changed to mud, and they 
 had ten and a half fathoms within two and a half miles of the 
 coast. 
 
 They entered Kotzebue Sound early in the morning of the 
 twenty-second of July, and plied against a contrary wind, 
 guided by the soundings. The appearance of the land was 
 80 distorted by mirage, and in parts so obscured by low fog, 
 that it was impossible to distinguish where they were. When 
 the fog cleared off they were much surprised to find themselves 
 opposite a deep inlet in the northern shore, which had escaped 
 the observation of Captain Kotzebue and to which Captain 
 Beechey gave the name of Hotham inlet. 
 
 As it would be necessary to remain three or four days to 
 increase their stock of water previous to proceeding to 
 the northward, the barge was hoisted out and sent to ex- 
 amine the inlet, with directions to meet the ship at Chaniisso 
 Island. She was placed under the command of Mr. Elson, and 
 equipped in every way necessary for the service required. 
 
 They were here visited by several baidars containing from 
 ten to thirteen men each, whose object was to obtain articles 
 in exchange. They were all without exception provided with 
 tablets either made of ivory and blue beads, or of different kind 
 of stone. They readily disengaged these from their lips 
 and sold them, without minding the inconvenience of the sa- 
 liva that flowed through the badly cicatriced orifice over the 
 chin ; but, on the contrary, thrust their tongues through the 
 hole, and winked with their eyes as in derision. 
 
 At four o'clock in the morning of the twenty fifth of July, 
 
826 PAR II Y s I o r R T ir vo y a g e 
 
 they reached the appointed rendez-vous at Chamisso islaiul, 
 ten days later than had been agreed upon by Captain Frank- 
 lin and Captain Beechey. It was however quite early enough, 
 as there were no traces of Captain Franklin having arrived. 
 On approaching the island they discovered, by their telescopes, 
 a small pile of stones upon its summit ; and as every object 
 of this kind which was likely to be the work of human hands 
 was interesting, from the possibility that it Uiight be the la- 
 bour of Captain Franklin's party, it soon underwent examina- 
 tion. Nothing however led to a knowledge of its history, but 
 conjecture attributed it to Captain Kotzebue. 
 
 The ship was anchored nearly as far up in Kotzebue sound 
 as a vessel of her class could go, between Chamisso island on 
 the south, and Choris peninsula on the north, with Escholtz bay 
 on the east, and an open space in the west, in which the coast 
 was too distant to be seen. In a sandy bay upon the western 
 side of the peninsula, they found a few Esquimaux, who had 
 hauled up their baidars and erected a temporary hut ; but in- 
 ferior in appearance to those they had before seen. In this 
 bay they caught enough salmon and other fish, to give a meal 
 to the whole ship's company. 
 
 At this anchorage Captain Beechey was, by his instructions, 
 to await the arrival of Captain Franklin ; but in a memoir 
 drawn up by those two officers, and to which their attention 
 was directed by the Admiralty, it was arranged that the ship 
 should proceed to the northward, and survey the coast, keep- 
 ing the barge in-shore to look out for the land party, and to 
 erect posts as signals of her having been there, and also to 
 leave directions where to find the ship. 
 
 Captain Beechey was also to place a small party in occupa- 
 tion of Chamisso island during the absence of the ship ; but 
 this spot appeared to be accessible to attack in almost every 
 quarter, so that a small party would have been of no use if the 
 natives were inclined to be hostile, and the numerical strength 
 of the crew did not admit of a large detachment being spared 
 from her. But in order that Captain Franklin should not want 
 provision in the event of hib misbing the ship along the coast, 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 8^7 
 
 and arriving at the island in her absence, a tight barrel of 
 flour was buried upon Puffin Rock, which appeared to be the 
 most unfrequented spot in the vicinity, and directions for 
 finding it were deposited in a bottle at Ciiamisso island, to- 
 gether with such other information as he might require, and 
 the place where it was deposited was pointed out by writing 
 upon the cliffs with white paint. It was further arranged 
 that a party should proceed over land in a northerly direction, 
 in the hope of falling in with Captain Franklin, as it was 
 possible the shore of the Polar Sea might lie more to the 
 southward than the general trending of that part of its coast 
 which had been explored led them to expect. This plan was 
 however afterwards abandoned, as the coast was found to ex- 
 tend so far to the northward as to render it quite useless. 
 
 On the 28th Mr. Elson returned from the examination of 
 the opening discovered on the north side of Kotzebue sound, 
 and reported that the water at the entrance was so shallow, 
 that the barge could not enter. The Esquimaux in this inlet 
 were numerous, but they were orderly and well behaved. 
 When the barge anchored off a low sandy point on which 
 they had erected their summer habitations, she was surrounded 
 by fourteen baidars contaming one hundred and fifty men ; 
 which, considering the crew of the barge only amounted to 
 eight men and two officers, was a superiority of strength that 
 might well have encouraged them to take liberties, had they 
 been so disposed, armed as they usually were with bows and 
 arrows, spears, and a large knife strapped to their thigh : 
 but so far from this being the case, they readily consented to 
 an arrangement that only one baidar at a time should come 
 along-side to dispose of her goods, and then make way for 
 another. 
 
 On the 30th of July, the ship weighed from Chamisso 
 island, attended by the barge, and steered out of the sound. 
 They kept at six or seven miles distance from the land until 
 near Hotham inlet, when the ship struck upon a shoal. 
 Upon sounding they found the ?4iip had entered a bight in 
 the shoal, and that there was a small bank between her and 
 
828 parry's fourth voyage 
 
 the deep water, so that it became neces^^ary to carry out the 
 stream anchor in the direction of her wake, by means of 
 •which, and a little rise of the tide, she was soon got off. 
 They now continued their course for Cape Krusenstern, near 
 which place they buried a letter for Captain Franklin, and 
 erected a post to direct him to the spot. 
 
 Mr. Elson, in command of the barge, was now furnished 
 with a copy of the signals for Captain Franklin, and directed 
 to proceed close along the shore to the northward, and vigi* 
 lantly to look out for boats, and to erect posts and landmarks 
 for Captain FrankUn's guidance. On the 2nd of August they 
 closed with a high cape, and landed for the purpose of erect- 
 ing a signal-post. They were met on the beach by a party 
 of Esquimaux, who eagerly sought an exchange o£ goods. 
 7'hey testified much pleasure at the visit, and placed before 
 their visitors several dishes, among which were two of their 
 choicest, the entrails of a seal and a bowl of coagulated blood. 
 But desirous as the party were to oblige them, there was not 
 one could be induced to partake ot their hospitality. They 
 afterwards favoured the party by singing and dancing, and ap- 
 peared quite happy in their enjoyments, although in the 
 opinion of their European visitors they possessed scarcely a 
 single comfort. In proceeding along the coast they passed 
 several villages of the Esquimaux, who all manifested a 
 friendly disposition, which was a source of great satisfaction 
 as it regarded Captain Franklin''s welfare, there being hereby 
 reason to hope they would offer no obstacles to his journey. 
 
 Captain Beechey had now advanced so far as to require 
 him to exercise great caution lest he should be beset in the 
 ice, his orders being direct and positive by all means to avoid 
 such a danger. He determined therefore to send the barge 
 along the coast, with a view of ascertaining how far it was 
 possible for a boat to go. Mr. Elson, the master, was con- 
 tinued in the command of her with instructions to trace the 
 shore to the northeast- ward as far as it was possible for a boat 
 to navigate, with a view to render the earliest possible assis- 
 tance to Captain Franklin. He was directed to possess him- 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 8^9 
 
 self of facts, which, in the event of the failure of the expedi- 
 tion under Captain Franklin, would lead to a judgment of 
 the probable success which might attend an attempt to effect 
 a north-eastern passage in this quarter ; and he was to avoid 
 being beset in the ice by returning immediately that the wind 
 sliould get to the north-west or west-ward, and not to prolong 
 his absence beyond the first week in September. He was 
 also to place landmarks and directions in conspicuous places 
 for Captain Franklin's guidance. 
 
 On the 17th of August, Mr. Elson commenced his inter- 
 esting expedition with the good wishes of all on board, and 
 the ship, after surveying the coast a certain distance to the 
 north-ward, returned to her appointed station at Chamisso 
 island on the 24th. On the tenth of September the barge 
 returned. She brought no tidings of Captain Franklin ; but 
 liad discovered a large extent of coast and had proceeded to 
 the latitude of 71° 23' 31" N. and to longitude 156^ J21' 30" W. 
 where the coast formed a low narrow neck beyond which it 
 was impossible to proceed to the east- ward, in consequence 
 of the ice being attached to the land and extending along the 
 horizon to the northward. The farthest tongue of land 
 which they reached is the most northerly point yet discovered 
 on the continent of America, and was named Point Barrow. 
 It lies one hundred and twenty-six miles to the north-east of 
 Icy Cape, and is only one hundred and forty-six miles from 
 the extreme of Captain Franklin's discoveries in his progress 
 west-ward from the Mackenzie River. 
 
 The ship had hitherto remained in the sound, in the ex- 
 pectation of being able to wait till the end of October, agree- 
 ably with their instructions ; but such a change occurred in 
 the atmosphere, together with the departure of all the Esqui- 
 maux for their winter habitations, and the frozen state of the 
 lakes, made it evident that the time was near when it would 
 be necessary to quit their present anchorage, to avoid being 
 shut up by the young ice. As the instructions to Captain 
 Beechey were peremptory not to risk the wintering in these 
 parts, and at the same time the Hves of Captain Franklin's 
 
 P. V. 35. 5 O 
 
830 PAIULYS FOURTH VOYAGE 
 
 party miglit be involved by quitting the rendez-vous earlier 
 than had been agreed upon, he addressed an official letter to 
 his officers, requesting they would take every circumstance 
 into consideration, and furnish their opinion on the propriety 
 of remaining longer in these seas. Their reply conveyed a 
 unanimous opinion that the ship could not continue longer 
 at her present anchorage without incurring the risk of win- 
 tering, and suggested her removal to the entrance of the 
 sound, where the majority thought she might remain a few 
 days longer ; but previous to the ship taking up her station 
 there, it was considered advisable that the strait should be 
 ascertained to be navigable, lest the ice should have been 
 drifted down from the northward, and the retreat of the ship 
 cut off. 
 
 It now remained to be considered how Captain Franklin 
 could be most benefited in the event of his party arriving after 
 the departure of the Blossom. No more could be done than 
 put him in possession of every information they had obtained, 
 and leave him a temporary supply of provisions and bartering 
 articles with which he might procure others from the natives. 
 7'o this end a barrel of flour was buried for him upon the 
 sandy point of Chamisso, a place which was more likely to 
 escape the observation of the natives than' the former one, 
 where the newly turned turf could not be concealed. A 
 large tin case, containing beads and a letter, was deposited 
 with it to enable him to purchase provisons from the natives 
 and to guide his conduct. Ample directions for finding these 
 were both cut and painted on the rock ; and to call the atten- 
 tion of the party to the spot, which they might pass, seeing 
 the ship had departed, her name was painted in very large 
 letters on the chitfs of Puffin island, accompanied with a notice 
 of her departure, and the period to which she had remained 
 in the sound. Beneath it were written directions for finding 
 the cask of flour, and also a piece of drift-wood which was 
 deposited in a hole in the cliff. This billet had been pur- 
 posely bored and charged with a letter containing all the 
 useful information necessary and was then plugged up in such 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 831 
 
 a manner that no traces of its having been opened w^re 
 visible. 
 
 Having thus far per.ormed their duty, they prepared the 
 ship for sea, that she might depart at an hour's notice. 
 
 On the eighteenth of October the edges of the sound be- 
 gan to freeze, and it was evident that it only needed calm 
 weather to skin it entirely over ; Captain Beechey therefore 
 ordered the anchor to be weighed and the ship steered out of 
 the sound, and proceeded on her voyage. In the execution 
 of this necessary resolution it was some consolation to reflect, 
 that, from the nature of Captain Franklin's instructions it was 
 almost certain that by this time, he had either commenced his 
 return or taken up his winter abode. He had been directed 
 to return to his winter quarters on the fifteenth of August, if 
 lie found the prospect of success was not such as to insure his 
 reaching Icy Cape that season, and if it should prove impracti- 
 cable to winter at an advanced station on the coast. Captain 
 Beechey was justified therefore in supposing that he had al- 
 ready been either compelled to pause, or to turn back, as in 
 the event of the success anticipated in his instructions, it could 
 hardly happen, considering the open state of the sea to the 
 northward, but that he should have reached Kotzebue sound 
 by the time the Blossom left it. 
 
 Up to this period of his voyage, the instructions which ac- 
 companied his appointment, were a sufficient guide to Cap- 
 tain Beechey ; but with the exception of his touching at the 
 Sandwich Islands, there were no specific directions for his fur- 
 ther guidance, and it was for him seriously to consider how 
 the time could be most usefully employed. It was necessary 
 to repair to some port to refit and caulk the ship, to replenish 
 the provisions and stores, and what was equally important, to 
 recruit the health of the people, who had been a considerable 
 time mi short allowance of salt provisions, and in the enjoy- 
 ment of only seven weeks fresh meat in the last ten months. 
 From the favourable account given of San Francisco, in Cali- 
 fornia, it appeared to be the most desirable place to which a 
 ship under circumstances as the Blossom was, could resort ; 
 
8.S2 PARRY- S FOURTH VOYAGE 
 
 and as the coast between that port and Cape St. Lucas was 
 xery imperfectly known. Captain Beechey thought his time 
 could not be more usefully employed than in completing the 
 survey of it. He therefore directed his course to that place, 
 and determined to enter the pacific by the Strait of Oonemak. 
 On the fifth of November they made the high land of New 
 Albion, and afterwards proceeded to the harbour of San Francis- 
 co. Captain Beechey went on shore to pay his respects to 
 Don Ignacio Martinez, a lieutenant in the Mexican army, 
 acting governor in the absence of Don Louis ; and to the 
 priest, whose name was Tomaso, both of whom gave him a 
 very hospitable and friendly reception, and offered their ser- 
 vices in any way they might be required. Their first enqui- 
 ries related to supplies, which they found not likely to be ade- 
 quate to their wants ; Captain Beechey therefore despatched 
 Mr. Collie the surgeon, and Mr. Marsh the purser, over land 
 to Monterey, with orders to procure for the ship what medi- 
 cines, provisions, and other stores were to be had. The go- 
 vernor politely furnished a passport and a guard for this ser- 
 vice ; and arrangements were made for the daily supply of the 
 ship's company. In this port they continued until the twenty- 
 eighth of December, during which time the ship's company 
 all derived the greatest benefit from the refreshing products of 
 its soil. Some of them were so emaciated at the time of en- 
 tering the port, as scarcely to be recognized by the surgeon, 
 but all were now restored to their former healthy appearance, 
 and they had the satisfaction of leaving the port without a sin- 
 gle case of sickness on board. They had however, to regret 
 the loss of one of their best men by accident. Joseph Bow- 
 ers, a marine, accompanied one of the officers on a shooting 
 excursion, and was led by his naturally ardent and bold dis- 
 position to plunge into a lake after some wild fowl that had 
 been shot, forgetting that he could not swim. His eagerness 
 led him beyond his depth, and in his attempt to regain his 
 footing, he unfortunately perished before aid could be brought. 
 His body was interred at the burial ground, and was followed 
 to the grave by all the officers. 
 
TO THE NOETH POLE. 853 
 
 From San Francisco they proceeded to Monterey to take 
 in the stores that had been purchased at that place, and to 
 procure some spars which grow more conveniently for embark- 
 ation there than at San Francisco. Though the distance be- 
 tween these two places is little more than a hundred miles, 
 their passage was prolonged to two days by light winds. They 
 found lying in the port of Monterey, an American brig, en- 
 deavouring to dispose of a cargo of dry goods, and to pro- 
 cure hides and tallow in return, and they opportunely received 
 from her a supply of spirits, as the last cask was abroach. On 
 the fifth of January, 1827, they took leave of their hospitable 
 acquaintances and put to sea on their passage to the Sand- 
 wich Islands. 
 
 On leaving Monterey they steered to the southward with a 
 fair wind, which carried them into the trades and attended 
 them the whole way to the Sandwich Islands. 
 
 On the twenty-fifth they saw the island of Owyhee, and the 
 following day anchored in the harbour of Honoruru, the capi- 
 tal of the Sandwich Islands. They found all their former 
 acquaintances well ; and Mr. Lay the naturalist, whom they 
 had left there on account of his health, recovered, and ready 
 to resume his duties. After the usual etiquette of salutes, 
 Captain Beechey visited the king and Kahumana, a female 
 chief, who kindly appropriated three houses to the use of the 
 officers, and every way manifested their attachment to the 
 British nation. At this time several respectable stores were 
 kept by merchants from America and Europe. There were 
 also two hotels, and several of the houses of the chiefs w^ere 
 furnished with sofas and cushions, and various luxuries, and 
 they themselves dressed after the European fashions. Boki 
 had a large service of plate, as also one of expensively cut 
 glass from Pellat and Green of London. A remarkable 
 change arose in their civil and political arrangements. The 
 king was now attended by a guard under arms ; a sentinel 
 presented his musket when an officer entered the threshold of 
 the royal abode ; soldiers paraded the ramparts of a fort 
 mounting forty guns, and " all's well" was repeated through- 
 
834 parry's fourth voyage 
 
 out the town during the night. The harbour in spring and 
 autumn was crowded with foreign vessels, as many as fifty 
 having been there at one time. Five thousand stand of arms 
 were said to be distributed over the island, three hundred 
 men were embodied and dressed in regimentals, and the Sand- 
 wich Island flag was daily displayed by five brigs and eight 
 schooners. There were resident consuls from Great Britain 
 and the United States, with whom they had made treaties of 
 alliance. 
 
 Soon after the christian religion had been introduced into 
 the Sandwich Islands, several of the chiefs were taught to read 
 and write, and the missionaries diffused a knowledge of the 
 gospel among all the inhabitants. A public dinner was given 
 by the officers of the Blossom to the king and all the royal 
 family, the consuls, the chiefs, and the principal merchants 
 resident in the place. On this occasion the king was received 
 with the honours due to his rank : he was dressed in full uni- 
 form, and altogether made an elegant appearance. His be- 
 haviour at table was marked with the greatest propriety ; and 
 though he seemed fully aware of the superiority of Europeans, 
 he appeared at the same time conscious that the attentions he 
 received were no more than a just tribute to his rank. Boki, 
 the regent, Koanoa the colonel of the troops, and Manuia the 
 captain of the port, were dressed in the Windsor uniform; 
 and Kahumana and two other female chiefs were arrayed in 
 silk dresses. Many loyal and patriotic toasts succeeded the 
 dinner, some of which were proposed by Boki in compliment 
 to the king of England and the president of the United 
 States. The chiefs drank to the health of several persons 
 who had shewn them attention in London, and throughout 
 the day the islanders acquitted themselves very creditably, and 
 manifested a close observance of European manners. Since 
 the departure of the Blossom two important political events 
 had taken place ; the one was a treaty of alliance with the 
 United States, by which a favourable reception of American 
 vessels was guaranteed ; the other event was the retirement 
 of Krymakoo, who was more generally known by the name of 
 
TO TIIF. XORTH POLE. So5 
 
 Hilly Pitt, from the circumstance of Mr. Pitt being prime mi- 
 nister to the king of Great Britain as Krymakoo was to tlie 
 king of the Sandwich Islands. 
 
 The harbour of Honoruru is the general rendezvous of all 
 the whale ships employed in the North Pacific ocean. In the 
 spring time these vessels assemble hereto the number of forty 
 or fifty sail at a time, and take on board large supplies of vefre- 
 tabies and fruit as sea stock, to enable them to remain upon their 
 fishing ground until the autumn, when many of them return 
 to the port. The fresh provisions which they procure at 
 these islands is a great preventative of scurvy, and the goods 
 which the ships barter in exchange are very acceptable to the 
 inhabitants. 
 
 Having procured a sufficient supply of provisions, the ship 
 took her departure from this place on the 4th of March, and 
 on the 2nd of July made the snowy mountains of Kamschatka 
 and came to an anchor the next day, off the town of Petro- 
 paulski. The season was more backward than the preceding 
 year ; the snow lay deep upon some parts of the shore, and 
 the inhabitants were glad to keep on their fur dresses. On 
 the 18th they again took their departure and on the 5th of 
 August came to anchor off Chamisso island, nearly in the 
 same situation which they occupied the preceding year. A 
 boat was immediately sent to ascertain whether any marks 
 were to be discovered, that either Captain Parry or Captain 
 Franklin had been here. No such indications could however 
 be seen, no staff had been erected, as had been agreed upon 
 in the event of their arrival ; and a billet of wood, contain in f^ 
 despatches, which had been placed by the Blossom for their 
 information on the preceding year, lay unopened on the same 
 stone. 
 
 Previous to this period Mr. Elson had been sent with the ten- 
 der to examine the coast, and to search for an opening to the 
 eastward of Cape Prince of Wales, which the Esquimaux the 
 preceding year said to be the fact. He was also to look into 
 Schismareff inlet. He returned on the 11th, having succeeded 
 in finding the inlet, which appeared, as far as he could judge, 
 
836 PARRY*^ FOURTH VOYAGE 
 
 the weather being very foggy and boisterous, to be a spacious 
 and excellent port. 
 
 The discovery of a port so near to Behring's Strait, and one 
 m which it was probable the ship might remain, after cir- 
 cumstances should oblige her to quit Kotzebue sound, was 
 of great importance, and Captain Beechey determined on 
 examining it, should the situation of the ice to the northward 
 give no prospect of proceeding farther than the preceding 
 year. In order that Captain Franklin's party might not be 
 inconvenienced by such an arrangement, the barge was placed 
 under the command of Lieutenant Belcher, and ordered to 
 proceed along the coast as in the preceding year. He was to 
 use his best endeavours to communicate with the party under 
 Captain Franklin's command, by penetrating to the eastward 
 as far as he could go with safety to the boat ; but he was on 
 no account to risk being beset in the ice ; and in the event of 
 separation from the ship, he was not to protract his absence 
 from Kotzebue sound beyond the 1st of September. 
 
 Having made these arrangements they put to sea, but did 
 not reach the entrance of the sound till the 16th. Before 
 they left the island they were visited by several natives whom 
 they had seen the preceding year. They brought some skins 
 for sale as usual, and were as before, dirty, noisy and impu- 
 dent. 
 
 One of them finding he was not suffered to carry off some 
 deep-sea leads that were lying about, scraped off the greasy 
 arming and devoured it : another, after bargaining some 
 skins for the armourer's anvil, seized it for the purpose of 
 carrying it away ; but much to his surprize, and to the great 
 diversion of the sailors who had played him the trick, he 
 found its weight much too great for him, and after a good 
 laugh received back his goods. 
 
 Off the entrance of Kotzebue sound they w^ere met by a 
 westerly wind, which prevented their making much progress, 
 afterwards the breeze veered to the south-west, with a thick 
 fog, and not having seen any thing of the barge, they steered 
 to the northward to ascertain the position of the ice. In half 
 
1 T H E K O R T H FO L «. SSl 
 
 an hour they heard the ice to leeward and had but just room 
 to get about to clear a berg at its edge. By the information 
 of Lieutenant Belcher, who was off Icy Cape at this time, 
 though not within sight of the ship, the ice at this time closed 
 the land about twenty-seven miles east of Icy Cape. It ap- 
 peared that the line of packed ice in the meridian of ley 
 Cape, was twenty-four miles to the southward of its position 
 the preceding year, and that it was on the whole much nearer 
 the continent of America. With the ice thus pressing upon 
 the American coast, and with the prevalence of westerly winds, 
 by which this season was distinguished, there appeared to be but 
 little prospect of a vessel reaching even to Point Barrow. 
 
 Seeing they could not remain sufficiently close in shore to be 
 of use to their friends during the westerly winds and thick 
 weather, Captain Beechey determined upon the examination 
 of the inlet discovered by Mr. Elson to the eastward of Cape 
 Prince of Wales, and made sail for Kotzebue Sound, for the 
 purpose of leaving there the necessary information for Captain 
 Franklin and Lieutenant Belcher, in the event of either arriv- 
 ing during the absence of the ship. 
 
 They passed Cape Krusenstern about sunset on the 25tli 
 of August, and in running along i-hore after dark their atten- 
 tion was directed to a large fire, kindled as if on purpose to 
 attract their notice. As this was a signal agreed upon be- 
 tween Captains Franklin and Beechey and as they had not 
 seen a fire before on any part of the coast at night, they im- 
 mediately brought to, and to their great satisfaction at the 
 moment, observed a boat pulling towards the ship. Their 
 anxiety as it approached may be imagined, as by the light of 
 the aurora borealis and the use of their telescopes, they thought 
 she was propelled by oars and not by paddles ; on being ac- 
 costed by the Esquimaux their mistake was however instantly 
 manifested. Captain Beechey however fired a gun ; but the 
 signal not being answered, they pursued their course for 
 Chamisso. 
 
 They anchored at Chamisso on the 26th, and after deposit- 
 ing the necessary information on shore, they proceeded the 
 P. V. S6. 5 P 
 
858 parry's fourth voyage 
 
 next uioniiiig to examine the inlet. They were scarcely a 
 league from the land when their attention was again arrested 
 by a fire kindled upon the peninsula, and several persons 
 standing upon the heights waving to the ship. Not- 
 withstanding the disappointment experienced the preceding 
 night, the hope of meeting their own countrymen so strongly 
 impressed their minds, that some of the crew professed they 
 could see the party dressed in European clothes. A boat was 
 immediately dispatched to the shore, when they found it to 
 be a party of Esquimaux wishing to dispose of some skins for 
 tobacco. As the ship proceeded they came to several settle- 
 ments of the Esquimaux. 
 
 The surveying of several capacious harbours occupied their 
 time till the 5th of September, when they had completed near- 
 ly all that was necessary ; and the weather now set in with 
 such severity that Captain Beechey felt anxious to get back 
 to Kotzebue Sound. For three days the weather had been 
 cold, with heavy falls of snow, and the seamen suffered much 
 from exposure to the cold and the harassing duty they had 
 been engaged in. As they neared Behring's Strait, the wind 
 increased, and on rounding Cape Prince of Wales they were 
 obliged to reduce their sails to the close reef. While they were 
 thus pressed John Dray, one of the seamen, unfortunately fell 
 overboard from the look-out at the mast head, and sunk along side 
 a boat which was sent to him, after having had his arms round 
 two of the oars. This was the only accident that had occurred 
 of the kind since the ship had been in commission, and it was 
 particularly unfortunate that it should have fallen to the lot 
 of so good a man as Dray. Previous to his entry in the ship 
 he had resided some time at the Marquesas islands, and was 
 so well satisfied with the behaviour of the natives of that place 
 that he intended to reside among them ; but being on board a 
 boat belonging to Baron Wrangel's ship at a time when the is- 
 landers made a most unjustifiable attack upon her, he was 
 afraid to return to the shore, and accompanied the Baron to 
 Petropaulski, where he entered himself on board the Blossom. 
 
 On arriving off the entrance of Kotzebue Sound they en- 
 
TO THE NORTH POL^« 839 
 
 c^untereJ as usual an easterly wind, and beat up a-l! night with 
 ihick misty weather. After beating all night in very thick 
 weather, on the ninth of September they stood in for 
 the northern shore. There had been a strong current 
 during the night, which drifted the ship towards Hothani In- 
 Jet, where, the water shoaHng suddenly from five fathoms to 
 two and a half, the ship struck upon the sand, while m the act 
 of going about, and soon became fixed by the current run.- 
 ning over the slioal. In consequence of this current the boats 
 experienced the utmost difficulty in carrying out an anchor, 
 but they at length succeeded, though to no purpose, as tl>e 
 ship was immoveable. At first they were apprehensive of the 
 most awful consequences, but the wind moderated shortly af- 
 ter she struck, and on the rising of the next tide she went off 
 without having received any apparent injury. 
 
 After having so narrowly escaped shipwreck, they beat up 
 all night with thick weather, and the next morning steered for 
 Chamisso island. On approaching the anchorage they were 
 greatly disappointed at not seeing the barge at anchor, as her 
 time had expired several days, and her provisions were too 
 nearly expended for her to remain at sea with safety to her 
 crew ; but on examining the shore with telescopes, they 
 discovered a flag flying upon a peninsula, and two men waving 
 a piece of white cloth to attract attention. Amidst different 
 sensations a hope arose that the people they saw were the long 
 looked for expedition under Captain Frankiin ; but on a closer 
 view of the flag, they perceived it to be the ensign of their 
 own boat hoisted with the union downwards indicative of dis- 
 tress. The boats were immediately sent to the relief of tlve 
 sufferers, with provisions and blankets, concluding, as they on- 
 ly saw part of the crew stirring about, and others lying down 
 within a small fence erected round the llag-stafF, that they 
 were ill or had received hurt. 
 
 On the return of the first boat they learned that the barge 
 had been lost on the coast, to the northward in Kotzebue 
 Sound. Lieutenant Belcher, who commanded her, stated 
 that after quitting Cliamisso island on the twelfth of August, 
 he proceeded along the northern shore of the sound, and land- 
 
8i0 PARilv's lOtJRTfl VOTA3E 
 
 eel at Cape Krusenstern, where he waited a short time ; but: 
 not seeing the ship, the weather being very thick, he stood on 
 for Cape 1 homson, where he came to an anchor and reple- 
 nished his stock of water. He met some natives on shore, who 
 informed him that the ship had passed to the north war(l, 
 which was not true, and he therefore pursued his course. He 
 kept close along the shore, for the purpose of falling in with 
 the land expedition, and arrived off ley Cape on the nine- 
 teenth, when he landed and examined every place in the hope 
 of discovering some traces of Captain Franklin. He found 
 about twenty natives on the point living in tents, who receiv- 
 ed him very civilly, and assisted him to fdl his water casks 
 from a small well they had dug in the sand for their own 
 use. 
 
 On the twenty-third of August, Lieutenant Belcher landed 
 on Icy Cape. The weather now became very severe, so that 
 the sails were cased with ice, as were also the clothes of the sea- 
 men. Three of the crew became invalids from chilblains and 
 nlcers, and the necessity of carrying a press of sail, strained 
 the boat to such a degree as to require the pumps to be kept 
 constantly at work. In order to find some shelter, he bore up 
 for Point Hope ; but finding the weather so bad that he could 
 not keep the coast with safety, and the time for his rendezvous 
 at Chamisso Island having arrived, he pursued his course for 
 that place. The party were here engaged in erecting an ob- 
 servatory upon Choris Peninsula, when the wind set in sud- 
 denly upon the shore where the barge was anchored, and the 
 crew were immediately ordered on board. In the morning 
 the fine weather was such, that only two persons were left in 
 the vessel, and the boat being small, could take only four at a 
 time. One boat load had joined the vessel, but the surf rose 
 so suddenly, that in attempting to reach her a second time, 
 the oars were broken, and the boat was thrown back by the 
 sea and rendered nearly useless. Several persevering and un- 
 successful efforts were afterwards made to communicate with 
 the vessel, which being anchored in shallow water, struck hard 
 upon the ground and soon filled. Some Esquimaux with a 
 
TO THE NORTH POIE. 841 
 
 Iraitlar being near the spot, Lieutenant Belcher compelled 
 them to assist him in reaching the barge, but the sea ran too 
 high, and the natives not exerting themselves, the attempt 
 failed. The sea was now making a breach over the vessel, 
 and Mr. Belcher ordered the cockswain to cut the cable and 
 allow her to come broadside upon the shore; but either 
 through fear or misunderstanding, this was not done. At this 
 time there were four men and a boy on board, two of whom 
 seeing no hope of relief from the shore, jumped overboard 
 with spars in their hands and attempted to gain the beach, 
 but were unfortunately drowned. The others retreated to tlie 
 rigging, but the boy, exhausted with cold and fatigue, at 
 length fell from the rigging and was seen no more. After 
 great exertions, the sea subsiding, a communication with the 
 vessel was effected, and the two remaining seamen were car- 
 ried on shore and laid before a fire, where they recovered suf- 
 ficiently to be taken to a hut near the fatal scene. 
 
 The morning after this unfortunate occurrence, part of the 
 crew were employed in collecting what was washed on shore 
 and preventing the natives from committing depredations, who 
 upon the whole behaved better than was expected, until the 
 day on which the Blossom arrived. Parties were now repeat- 
 edly sent to the wreck in the hope of being able to raise her, 
 or to procure what they could from her cabin and holds ; but 
 she was completely wrecked and filled with sand, and after a 
 few days went to pieces. 
 
 On the twelfth the body of one of the seamen was found 
 near the place where the boat was wrecked. On the Sunday 
 following it was attended to the grave by all the officers and 
 ship's company. 
 
 In the beginning of October they had sharp frosts and 
 heavy falls of snow. On the fourth the earth was deeply co- 
 vered and the lakes were frozen. The thermometer fell to 24" 
 and there was every appearance of the winter having com- 
 menced. It became therefore the duty of Captain Beechev 
 to consider on the propriety of continuing longer in these 
 seas. No intelligence had been obtained of Captain Frank- 
 
042 parry's foctrth voya&e 
 
 lin, nor was it probable that any of his party could now apv 
 pear ; and they could only presume that he had met with in- 
 surmountable obstacles to his proceeding and had retraced his 
 route up the Mackenzie river. 
 
 Anxious however to remain till the last, on the chance of 
 being useful to him, Captain Beechey requested the opinions 
 of the officers as to the state of the season, and finding them 
 unanimous in believing the winter to have commenced, and 
 that the ship could not remain longer in Kotzebue Sound with 
 safety, he determined to quit the anchorage so soon as the 
 wind would permit. Weighing the probability of Captain 
 Franklin*s arrival at this late period of the season, no one 
 thought there was the least chance of it ; for Iiad his pros- 
 pects the preceding year been such as to justify his winter- 
 ing upon the coast, the distance remaining to be accomplished 
 in the present season, would have been so short that he could 
 scarcely fail to have performed it early in the summer, in 
 which case the Blossom's party must have seen him long be- 
 fore this date, unless he had reached Icy Cape, and found it 
 advisable to return by his own route. Upon the chance of 
 his arrival after the departure of the ship, the provisions 
 which had been buried for his use, were allowed to remain, 
 and the billet of wood was again deposited on the island, con- 
 taining a statement of the behaviour of the natives, and other 
 particulars with which it was important he should be 
 acquainted. 
 
 On the sixth of October the ship weighed, and beat out of 
 the sound. They now steered towards Cape Prince of Wales, 
 with a view of passing Behring's strait, which they did with 
 a close-reefed topsail breeze. On the twelfth they saw the is- 
 land of Saint Paul. The attainment of the principal object 
 of the expedition was now at an end ; and, though unsuccess- 
 ful in meeting with Captain Franklin, yet they had the satis- 
 faction of knowing that their efforts to maintain their station 
 in both years, had, by the blessing of providence, been success- 
 ful, so that at no period of the appointed time of the rendez- 
 vous, could he have missed both the bqi^it and the ship, or. 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 8i3 
 
 have arrived at the appointed place in Kotzebue Sound, with- 
 out finding the anticipated rehef. 
 
 The voyage of Captain FrankUn down the Mackenzie ri- 
 ver, and along the northern shores of the continent of Ameri- 
 ca, brought him within fifty leagues of Point Barrow, the ex- 
 treme point of Captain Beechey's voyage ; so that it must be 
 regretted that they did not meet each other. Jt would cer- 
 tainly have been hig-hly blameable for Captain Franklin 
 to have proceeded farther than he did, under the total un- 
 certainty of meeting Captain Beechey ; but could he have 
 been made acquainted with the advanced situation of the 
 Blossom, he would have been justified in risking the attempt. 
 The failure however, does not detract from the laurels gained 
 by Captain Franklin and his associates, who through obstacles 
 insurmountable by persons of less determined and persevering 
 minds, have explored an extent of country which leaves so 
 small a portion of the coast unknown 
 
 Captain Beechey now proceeded on his return ; he passed 
 the meridian of Cape Horn on the thirtieth of June, and ar- 
 rived at Rio Janeiro on the twenty-first of July. Here he re- 
 ceived on board the Right Honourable Robert Gordon, am- 
 bassador to the court of Brazil, and after a passage of forty- 
 nine days arrived at Spithead. 
 
 In this voyage, which occupied three years and a half, they 
 sailed seventy-three thousand miles, and experienced every vi- 
 cissitude of climate. In the course of it they lost eight per- 
 sons by sickness, four by shipwreck, one missing, one drowned, 
 and one fell overboard in a gale of wind. The Board of Ad- 
 miralty, as a mark of their approval of the exertions which 
 had been made, promoted the various officers attached to the 
 expedition. 
 
 While Captain Parry w^as to attempt a passage through 
 prince Regent's Inlet, as has been stated in his second voy- 
 age, Captain Franklin was also to make a journey o\er land 
 to the Mackenzie River, and from thence to Behring's Strait. 
 'J'he following is a short account of his journey. 
 
Bli pahiiy's rouiiTii voyage 
 
 It! June. 1824, three light boats, together with a supply of 
 stores, two carpenters, and a party of men, were sent in the 
 Hudson's Bay ship to York factory, who were to proceed to 
 Cumberland house, on the Saskatchawana river the same sea- 
 son ; and early in the spring of 1825., to advance as far as 
 Bear Lake, where they were to erect buildings for the winter 
 residence of the whole of the expedition, the other part of 
 whom were to proceed thither by New York and the Lakes, 
 in the beginning of the year 1825. 
 
 The following is an extract from the official instructions 
 which Lord Bathurst communicated to Captain Franklin, da- 
 ted Downing Street, Jan. 31st. 1825. 
 Sir, 
 
 His Majesty's government having decided that an expedi- 
 tion should be set forth for exploring the northern coast of 
 America, between the mouth of Mackenzie'*s river and the 
 strait of Behring, and confiding in your zeal and experience, I 
 have recommended you as a proper person to be charged with 
 the same. You are therefore to proceed with your party from 
 Liverpool to New York, and from thence to make your way 
 to Lake Huron, where the stores necessary for your journey 
 have already been sent. From thence you are to follow the 
 water communication to the western side of the Great Bear 
 Lake, where you are to establish your winter quarters. 
 
 Early in the spring of 1826, you are to proceed down the 
 Mackenzie river with all the necessary stores and provisions, 
 in order to be prepared to take advantage of the first opening 
 of the ice on the Polar Sea, so as to enable you to prosecute 
 your voyage along the coast to Icy Cape, round which you are 
 to proceed to Kotzebue's Inlet, where you may expect to find 
 his Majesty's ship Blossom, which the Lords Commissioners 
 of the Admiralty will order to proceed to that rendezvous in 
 the summer of 1826. 
 
 On your arrival at the mouth of Mackenzie river, you are 
 to dispatch Dr. Richardson with Mr. Kendall, and five or six 
 men, in one of the boats to examine the intermediate coast be- 
 tween the Mackenzie and Coppermine rivers; but if your 
 
TO THE NORTH POLK. 845 
 
 stores and provisions are not sufficient for your own and Dr. 
 Richardson's party, you are in that case to direct Dr. Rich- 
 ardson to employ his party on shore in examining the country 
 contiguous to the Mackenzie Jliyer, the Rocky Mountains, 
 the shores of the Great Bear Lake, tlie Copper Mountains, 
 and as far round as he can with safety. 
 
 If in proceeding westerly towards Icy Cape, you should 
 make but slow progress, so that it remain doubtful whether 
 you will reach the neighbourhood of Kotzebue's Inlet the 
 same season, you are not to risk yourself and party, but com- 
 mence your return about the 15th or 20th of August to the 
 established winter quarters on Bear Lake, unless you should 
 be satisfied that yourself and party could pass the winter with 
 safety among the Exquimaux, and that there was afforded 
 a certainty of your reaching Behring's Strait the following 
 season, when the Blossom will again proceed to the appointed 
 rendezvous. 
 
 In the event of your reaching Kotzebue Inlet the first sea- 
 son. Captain Beechey will be instructed to convey you and 
 your party in the Blossom, to the Sandwich Islands or Canton, 
 as may seem most advisable to you, from whence you will be 
 able to take a passage to England. 
 
 Bathurst. 
 
 On the l6th of February 1825, Captain Franklin embark- 
 ed at Liverpool on board the American packet ship Columbia, 
 commanded by Captain Lee, together with Lieutenant Back, 
 Dr. Richardson and others of the party who were to accom- 
 pany him, and landed at New York on the 15th of March. 
 Their reception at that place was kind in the extreme : their 
 baggage and stores were passed through the Custom house 
 without inspection, and cards of admission to the public scien* 
 tific institutions were presented to them the same evening. 
 During their stay at New York, every mark of attention was 
 shewn to Captain Franklin and his party by the civil and 
 naval authorities, as well as by private individuals, and the 
 
 P. V. 30. 5 Q 
 
846 rAiniY'.'=; fourth voyage 
 
 most lively interest manifested for the success of the enter- 
 prise. 
 
 i^fter a stay of eight days in the city of New York, the 
 party embarked in the steam-boat Olive Branch, and were 
 accompanied into Upper Canada by James Buchanan Esq, 
 the British consul, who so accommodated a journey he had to 
 make as to enable him to accompany them. They ascended 
 the Hudson Jliver to Albany, where they experienced similar 
 civilities to those they had received at New York, and Dr. 
 Christie, the minister of the church they attended at this place, 
 offered up public prayers for their preservation and success. 
 From Albany they travelled forward in coaches, and crossing 
 the Niagara, entered Canada, visiting the Falls so justly 
 celebrated at that place. "^1 hey afterwards crossed Lake 
 Ontario in a sailing boat, and on arriving at York, the capital 
 of Upper Canada, were kindly received by the Lieutenant- 
 governor Sir Peregrine Maitland. Proceeding onwards they 
 crossed Lake Simcoe, and after a journey of nine miles on 
 foot, descended the river Nattawassaga in a boat, and passing 
 through a part of Lake Huron, arrived at Penetanguishene, 
 where they remained eight days, waiting the arrival of some 
 Canadian voyagers from Montreal who were to accompany 
 them. 
 
 The party, by the accession of the voyagers, consisted of 
 thirty-three persons, and on the 23rd of April they proceeded 
 to Fort William, on the northern shore of Lake Superior, 
 where they arrived on the 10th of May, and from thence 
 through Rainy Lake, the Lake of the Woods, Lake Winipeg 
 and the Saskatchawan river to Cumberland House, where 
 they arrived on the 15th of June. 
 
 The party who sailed by Hudson's Bay had proceed- 
 ed from Cumberland House, excepting the principal car- 
 penter, who had the misfortune to break his leg, but which 
 had been set by an officer of the Hudson's Bay company. 
 Dr. Richardson, on examining it said that it had been skilfully 
 «et, and that the man would be able in two months to follow 
 
TO THE NOH!H POLE. 847 
 
 the exploring party to Bear Lake, which he was very anxious 
 to do. 
 
 Having remained one night at Cumberland House, they 
 resumed their voyage, in the course of which they met the 
 gentlemen of the Hudson's Bay Company proceeding from 
 the interior with various brigades of canoes, carrying the re- 
 turns of trade for the year to York Factory. At length, on 
 the twenty-ninth of June, they overtook the other party iu 
 Methye river, latitude SQ"" 10^' N. longitude, 108" 55' W. 
 which is almost at the head of the waters that flow from tlie 
 north into Hudson's Bay. 
 
 On the twenty-ninth of Jufy they reached Fort Resolution 
 an estabhshment of the company on the great Slave Lake. 
 Here Captain Franklin found some of their old Copper-In- 
 dian friends, Keskarrah and Humphry, the brother of Akait- 
 cho, who had been waiting two months purposely to see them. 
 They manifested their gratification by repeatedly seizing the 
 hands of the officers, and pressing them to their hearts, and 
 exclaiming, " How much we regret that we cannot tell what 
 Me feel for you.'* A kaitcho had left the fort about two months 
 on a hunting excursion, hoping to return with plenty of pro- 
 vision for the use of Captain Franklin's party by the mid- 
 dle of August, which was as early as he expected they would 
 arrive. Most of the hunters who had been engaged by Cap- 
 tain Franklin on his former journey had been treacherously 
 murdered by the Dog- rib Indians, with which nation the Cop- 
 per Indians had been at war. They were now however at peace, 
 and A kaitcho and his tribe, had been induced to a reconcilia- 
 tion, in order that no impediment might be thrown in the way 
 of Captain Franklin and his party. '* We have too much es- 
 teem," said A kaitcho, ** for our father and for the service 
 in which he is about to be again engaged, to impede its suc- 
 cess by our wars, and therefore they shall cease ; and on be- 
 ing asked whether he and some of his young men would go 
 to hunt for the party at their winter quarters, he replied, '* our 
 licarts will be with them, but we will not go to those parts, 
 where the bones of our murdered brethren lie, for fear our 
 
8 i S r ,^ n n Y s r otT n T ii ^r o v a g e 
 
 bad passions should be aroused at the sight of their gravejf^ 
 and that we should be tempted to renew the war by the recol- 
 lection of the manner of their death. Let the Dog-ribs, who 
 live in the neighbourhood of great Bear Lake furnish them 
 ■with meat, though they are our enemies." Presents were 
 made to these people, and they were desired to continue at 
 peace, and assured that the same request would be made to 
 the Dog-ribs. 
 
 On the second of August, they came to a gentle current, 
 which might be considered as the commencement of the Mac- 
 kenzie river. They found the woods on fire in different direc- 
 tions, but whether this was attributable to the voluntary acts 
 of the Indians, or to their negligence in leaving their fires 
 burning, was not known. Saihng on the Mackenzie river they 
 stopped at the Trout river, which flows into it fronn the south- 
 ward and taking an observation made their latitude 6r 26' 
 30" N, their longitude 119" 47' W. They here passed the 
 site of the first establishment that the North-west Company 
 made in these parts, which was erected by Mr. Livingstone, 
 one of the partners, who, with the whole of the crew of his 
 canoe, excepting one individual, were massacred by the Es- 
 quimaux on their first attempt to open a trade with them. 
 
 On the seventh they arrived at Fort Norman. The services 
 of the Canadians who had brought the canoes from Penetan- 
 guishcne being no longer required, they were discharged, and 
 forwarded to Canada at the expence of government, accord- 
 ing to the terms of agreement. On the ninth they saw a 
 party of Indians encamped on the beach of a small stream, and 
 invited their approach. At first they hesitated, being doubt- 
 ful whether they were friends, but after some time they 
 launched their canoes, and brought a good supply of fresh 
 deer's meat. It appeared that these were Hare Indians, the 
 tribe that follows next to the Dog-ribs in the line of country 
 below Bear Lake. 
 
 At eleven o'clock at night on the 10th. of August, the par- 
 ty arrived at Fort Good Hope, the most distant of the Hud- 
 son's Bay Company's establishments. It is distant from Fort 
 
TO THK NORTH POLE. Si*) 
 
 Norman three hundred and twelve miles, and is in latitude 
 67" 28^ 21" N. and longitude 130° 51' 38" W. The arrival 
 of the party at this period of the year, being at least two 
 months earlier than that of the Company's boats from York Fac- 
 tory, caused great astonishment to the few inmates of this dreary 
 dwelling and particularly to its master, Mr. Dease, who did 
 not recover from his surprise until they had been some time 
 seated in his room. At length he put every one in motion to 
 prepare some refreshment, of which indeed they were not a 
 little in need, as it was then near midnight and they had 
 breakfasted at eight in the morning. 
 
 They proceeded to descend the river till the 12th, in a 
 winding course, in consequence of various sandbanks render- 
 ing it necessary, and shortly discovered a collection of Indian 
 lodges. One of the party happened to be examining his nets 
 nearer than the rest of his companions, and on espying the 
 boats, paddled off towards his friends with the utmost speed, 
 calling upon them to arm. The women and children instant- 
 ly hurried awky, and the whole party assumed a state of 
 defence. Signs for them to approach were for some time made 
 without effect. At length a youth adventured to launch his 
 canoe, and paddled gently towards the boats, until he discover- 
 ed Augustus, one of the Esquimaux attached to the voyagers, 
 whom by his countenance he knew to be an Esquimaux. 
 'JL'hen he threw up his hands for joy, and called on all his 
 party immediately to embark. The summons was instantly 
 obeyed ; each person who had a gun discharged its contents, 
 and the others took the barbs and iron heads from their 
 arrows, manifesting thereby an entire confidence. They 
 caressed Augustus, and danced and played around him, to 
 testify their joy at his appearing among them ; and he receiv- 
 ed every shake of the hand with great affability, but would not 
 suffer them to interrupt him in making the preparations for 
 breakfast, a task which he always delighted to perform. 
 
 The 15th of August, they had proceeded so far that they 
 found themselves arrived in the Arctic sea. — The water bo- 
 came vsalt, and they lost sight of the main shore. Tlicy after- 
 
8^0 pabjiy's fourth voyage 
 
 wards discovered an island to the N.E. looking blue from its- 
 distance, towards whicli the boat was directed. The sun was 
 setting as the boat touched the beach, and they hastened to 
 the most elevated part of the island, about two hundred and 
 fiftj' feet high, to look around, and never was a prospect more 
 gratifying. The sea appeared in all its majesty, entirely free 
 from ice and without any visible obstructicm to its navigation.. 
 Many seals and black and white whales were sjjorting on its 
 waves ; and the whole scene was calculated to excite the most 
 flattering expectations. 
 
 A tent was pitched on the beach and Captain Franklin 
 caused the silk union flag to be hoisied which his beloved 
 wife, who paid the debt of nature so shortly after their union, 
 liad made and presented to him as a parting gift, under an 
 express injunction that it was not to be unfurled before the 
 expedition reached the sea. Upon this occasion Captain 
 Franklin thus expresses himself: "I will not attempt to 
 describe my emotions as the flag expanded to the breeze : 
 however natural, and, for the moment, irresistible, I felt it was 
 my duty to suppress them, and that I had no right, by an 
 indulgence of my own sorrows, to cloud the animated coun- 
 tenances of my companions. Joining therefore, with the best 
 grace that I could command, in the general excitement, L 
 endeavoured to return, with corresponding cheerfulness, 
 their warm congratulations on having thus planted the British 
 flag on this remote island of the Polar Sea." It was named 
 (iarry Island, as a tribute of respect for Mr. Garry, the 
 Deputy Governor of the Hudson Bay Company. Some 
 s{)irits which were saved for the occasion, were issued to the 
 men, and with three cheers they drank to the health of the 
 King and to the continued success of their present enterprise. 
 They found the latitude to be 69" 29' N. and the longitude 
 135° 41' W. 
 
 A pole with a blue and red flag flying was heie erected as 
 a direction for Captain Parry, with a written account of their 
 progress and other useful information : — these, with other 
 letters for the officers of the ships, were deposited under the 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE, 851 
 
 pole. Another statement of tlieir proceedings was encased in 
 a water-proof box and committed to the sea, one mile to the 
 northward of the island. 
 
 Having completed their observations, they embarked to 
 return by the Mackenzie, to their winter quarters at Great 
 Bear Lake. On the 19th, they halted to breakfast near some 
 winter habitations of the Esquimaux ; which, from the fresh- 
 ness of the wood shavings and the implements of fishing 
 which were scattered about, appeared to have been abandoned 
 only in the preceding Spring ; and as it was probable they 
 would revisit this spot, a kettle, a knife, hatchet, file, an ice- 
 chisel, some beads and pieces of red and blue cloth were fixed 
 to a pole and left. From hence they proceeded to Fort Good 
 Hope, where they were welcomed by Mr. Dease and all at 
 his fort, a report having been spread that they had been 
 massacred by the Esquimaux. 
 
 On the Ist of September, they quitted the Mackenzie and 
 entered the stream, which flows from Great Bear Lake, and 
 reached Fort Franklin on the 5th, and here they established 
 their winter quarters, proper buildings having been erected 
 for their accommodation by some of the j arty who had bc( n 
 left for that purpose. 
 
 Various plans were now adopted for the employment of the 
 time of the people during the Winter ; among other methods 
 a school was established, and several of the party derived con- 
 siderable improvement by attending to the instruction aflbrded 
 them on the occasion. The officers employed themselves in 
 making thermometrical, magnetical, and atmospherical obser- 
 vations, in making drawings ajnd in other pursuits, and an 
 account of their proceedings was sent to the Secretary of State 
 by the way of Hudson's Bay. 
 
 On the 28th of June, the parties took their departure from the 
 place of their winter abode, and on the 4th of July separated 
 into two parties. Captain Franklin conducted the western party, 
 M-ho were to attempt reaching Behring's Strait, where they were 
 to meet Captain Bcechey in His Majesty's ship Blossom, with 
 supplies for his use ; and Dr. Richardson was to conduct the 
 
CJ52 PARUY S FOUUTH VOYAGE 
 
 eastern party, and to survey the coast between the Macken- 
 zie and Coppermine rivers. 'Hie former had scarcely reach- 
 ed the sea, when they fell in with a large number of Esqui- 
 maux, with whom, but for their own forbearance, they would 
 have been involved in a bloody, and perhaps, fatal encounter. 
 Having extricated themselves from this imminent peril, they 
 continued their course, greatly impeded, however, by the un- 
 favourable state of the atmosphere. The low and swampy 
 land that here extends between the northern termination of 
 the rocky mountains and the sea coast, was productive of a 
 constant fog, frequently so dense as to contract the range of 
 view to within a few yards. Nevertheless, by the l(S4h qf 
 August they had succeeded in reaching the half-way point 
 between Mackenzie River and ley Cape, (ihe furthest point to 
 which the north-western coast of A merica had been traced from 
 Behring's Strait) ; but the symptoms of approaching winter 
 here became so unequivocal, that they were compelled to return, 
 though with great reluctance. Unfortunately, Captain 
 Franklin did not know, that at this moment the barge of the 
 ship Blossom under Captain Beechey, which had been sent 
 to await his arrival in Sehring's Strait, was actually within 
 160 miles of the spot which he had himself reached ; had he 
 known it, "no difficulties, dangers, or discouraging circum- 
 stances," to use his own expression, would have prevailed on 
 him to return. Under the existing circumstances he was 
 obliged to do so, and, on the 21st of September, this western 
 expedition reached Fort Franklin, where they found the 
 eastern branch returned before them. 
 
 The navigation which Dr. Richardson had to perform was 
 almost wholly unobstructed ; and between the 4th of July 
 and the 8th of August, he succeeded in accomplishing the 
 coast voyage of 902 miles, between the mouths of the Mac- 
 kenzie and Coppermine Rivers. He returned with his party 
 to Fort Franklin on the 1st of September, and, after a lapse 
 of nearly three weeks, was joined by the western branch, as 
 before related. In the following year the two parties set 
 
TO THii 2<0KTH POLE, $53 
 
 out in company for England, which they reached in the 
 autumn of 1827. 
 
 This second expedition of Captain Franklin, though destitute 
 of that tragic interest which his first excited, may be regarded 
 as more important in its geographical results. The 6i de- 
 grees of longitude, for which the northern shores of America 
 had been explored in the former enterprise, were now extend- 
 ed to a line exceeding 39^ degrees in length, and approaching 
 on the one side to within 160 miles of the extreme known 
 north-western point of that continent, and on the other to 
 within 400 miles of its supposed extreme north-eastern point. 
 
 r.V. 36. 5 R 
 
( 854 ) 
 
 THE 
 
 SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 OF 
 
 CAPTAIN ROSS 
 
 The success of Captain Parry in his first voyage to the 
 Polar regions, by which the declaration made by Captain 
 Ross on his voyage of discovery, that there was no passage 
 through Lancaster Sound was proved to be an error, appears 
 to have been felt with peculiar keenness by the latter officer, 
 and after the failure of the subsequent efforts made by Cap- 
 tain Parry, he made overtures to the government to make a 
 further attempt to discover a North-west passage. 
 
 Captain John Ross was born at Stranraer, a small fishing- 
 town, remarkable for its oysters, on the west coast of Scotland. 
 He was the youngest son of the Rev. Andrew Ross, Minister 
 of the Inch in Galloway, and has one surviving brother, Mr. 
 George Ross. 
 
 Before however entering on a narrative of the circum- 
 stances attending the last Voyage of Captain Ross it may be 
 well to take a little notice of the naval career of this enter- 
 prising officer from the evidence which he gave before a 
 Committee of the House of Commons, which no doubt will 
 be read with much interest and will serve as a preliminary 
 introduction to the voyage itself. 
 
 Captain Ross stated to the Committee that he entered the 
 naval service in the year 1786, being at that time only ten 
 years of age, and continued in the service for four years, in 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 855 
 
 the ctmrse of which he served on boai'd the Pearl and the 
 Impregnable ; after which time he entered into the merchant 
 service, and continued in it until the year 1794. About 
 this time he entered into the service of the East India Com- 
 pjjny, and continued in their employment until the year 1*99. 
 After this he again feturned to the royal navy, and served in- 
 the expedition to the 'i'cxel in that year. Afterwards he be- 
 came acting Lieutenant of the Weasel for a season and sub^ 
 sequently went into the Clyde. He served in different capa- 
 cities under Lord de Sauniarez in the Baltic, from the year 
 1802 to the year 1812, and that noble and gallant Lord 
 describes him as having always acquitted himself to bis. Lord 
 dc Saumarez's, satisfaction, in services of an arduous nature in 
 which Captain Ross was then frequently engaged. Indeed 
 so great was the confidence of the admiral in the talents of 
 Captain Ross, that when the former took the Swedi&li fleet 
 under his orders, he sent Captain Ross on board the Swedish 
 admiral's ship to interpret the British signals and evolutions, 
 and on every occasion he acquitted himself with the utmost 
 zeal and merit. 
 
 Captain Ross commanded several vessels during the period 
 in which he was under the orders of Lord de Saumarez, and 
 was confirmed a Lieutenant in 1805. He then became first 
 lieutenant of the Surinam, then of the Penelope, and after- 
 wards of the Diomede, and of the Victory, the latter being 
 the admiral's own ship. Lord de Saumarez in 1809 gave 
 him his promotion as Commander and afterwards intrusted to 
 him the command of His Majesty's ship Ariel. 
 
 The king of Sweden conferred upon Captain Ross the 
 order of the Sword, as a testimony how highly the Swedish 
 government appreciated his merit ; and in every part of the 
 Baltic he displayed great zeal and activity in making himself 
 acquainted with the navigation of those seas. 
 
 Captain Ross was employed in surveying the White Sea, 
 and determined the longitude of Bear or Cherry Island. He 
 was several times engaged in boat actions, and destroyed a guu 
 
856 Ross's SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 brig in the Bay of Dilutte, when in the command of the 
 Briseis brig. 
 
 In the night of the 28th June 1812, his lieutenant, Tliomas 
 Jones, with a midshipman and 18 men, most gallantly attack- 
 ed and recaptured an English merchant-ship, lying in Pillgu 
 lloads, armed, in expectation of such an attempt, with 6 guns 
 and 4 swivels, defended by a party of French troops on her 
 deck, and surrounded by small craft in the act of receiving 
 her cargo. In this affair, the British had one man killed, 
 and the midshipman, one sailor, and one marine, wounded. 
 The Briseis also captured Le Petit Poncet, French privateer, 
 of 4 guns and 23 men, and drove on shore three other vessels 
 of the same description. Captain Ross's subsequent appoint- 
 ments were, June 7, 1814, to the Actjeon, of l6 guns; 
 August 23, 1815, to the Driver sloop; and, in 1816, to the 
 command of the first Polar expedition of the present century. 
 He was wounded in thirteen different places, had both his 
 legs broken, received a bayonet wound through the body, 
 and five sabre cuts in his head, for which he now receives the 
 well deserved pension of one hundred and fifty pounds a year. 
 From this statement it may be presumed that the essential 
 requisites of courage and perseverance, so necessary in an 
 undertaking like that of exploring the Polar regions, was 
 fully possessed by the subject of this memoir. 
 
 A very interesting letter from Sir T. Button to the Lord 
 Secretary of State, Dorchester, in the time of James the first, 
 has recently been discovered by Mr. Lemon in the State 
 paper Office ; and having in a preceding part of this work 
 given an account of the efforts of former adventurers, a literal 
 copy of this paper may be acceptable to the reader. Sir T. 
 Button writes, '* First, whether there be any likely hood or pro- 
 babilitye to compass the designe, — yea or noe. To that I 
 answer, that my opinion is nowe, as it ever hath bin. sithence 
 my retorne thence, and as I then delivered it, with the perti- 
 culer reasons of it, to my Most Royall Master, of most famous 
 memorye, that then was, Kinge James, that beinge under- 
 taken in a fittinge waye, and a dewe season, I made, and doe 
 
TO THE KORTH POLE. «& < 
 
 make as full accounpt of tlie feasiblenes of it, as I doe of any 
 knowne channell that is best knowne to us in these Norther 
 partes, and to be performed with as little dainger, and was soe 
 approved by His Matie to be ; who inforst as manye, and as 
 important questions, for his owne satisfactions, as if all the 
 best experienst marriners of the Christian World had con- 
 vented themselves togeather, to have drawne the intergatorics. 
 The same reasons have I delivered to many most honorable 
 and knowinge persons, and to our best Mathamaticians, as 
 Mr. Briggs, Mr. Wells, and others, with all the best masters 
 and mariners of our Kingdome,as alsoe to others, both Holland- 
 ers and French ; and in my discourse with any on of them all, 
 they never went unsatisfied from me, of the probabilitie of it ; 
 and for farther accompt herein att present t, I can give non ; 
 but if my Journall, or any other my notes or papers (with 
 ought ells in me) may give His Matie any farther or fuller 
 satisfaction, when I waight on His Highness, which I hope 
 wil be much sooner then is fitt for them to advaunce (for to 
 sett out too tymelye, is to faule too soone into that danger, 
 that too late a repentance cannot healpe them out on) I will 
 doe my best, out of my auld experience, to affurther the good 
 of it, and prevent the evells and inconveniencies that pretend- 
 inge men, of little experience, or non att all, may suddenly 
 bring uppon it ; — for I will bowldlie saye, that whoe shal be 
 fitt to have the manedginge of this unparaleld busines, ought 
 first to be soe religiouse, as to hould his end the happiest, 
 that dyes for the glorye of God, the honor of his Kinge, and 
 the publique good of his Countrye ; all which, in this deslgne, 
 have their severall and perticuler interest ; and therefore he 
 must not looke backe for feare of the dainger of either un- 
 knowne coastes, liideouse stormes, darke and longe continewed 
 mistes, to lye amonge and all wayes to see more landcs and 
 islands of Ice, than he can see of sea, and oft tymes rocks 
 under him in sight, when he shall, within thrice his ships 
 Icnght, fynde twentye fathom water ; and to incounter this, 
 under favor, must he be well armed, that shall undergoe this 
 busines ; for thrice si thence my beinge there, hath it bin at- 
 
^jB boss's SLCOND VOYAaE 
 
 tempted, and for ought I here, little, or rather I may bouldlye 
 saye noe advauncement given to the busines ; therefore 
 there cannot be too much curiositie used, to putt it into a 
 good and choise hand ; which I will heartilye praye may be 
 most happilye lighted on ; for wee live not in the adge to 
 fynde, that they are the most perfitt, which makes the glori- 
 osts shewe." 
 
 Apparently impressed with a strong conviction that it was 
 possible to discover a passage through the Polar regions, and 
 not daunted by the result of his first expedition or the fai- 
 lures that had more recently occurred. Captain Ross made a 
 proposal to the government, in 1827, to attempt again to 
 effect this desirable object. He proposed that the voyage 
 should be undertaken in a steam-vessel, and with this view he 
 applied himself diligently to the study of steam navigation, 
 and wrote also a treatise on the subject. No efforts of his, 
 however, could induce the government to coincide with his 
 wishes, and they declined acceding to his proposals. On the 
 death of Lord Liverpool, and Mr. Canning becoming prime- 
 minister, his present Majesty was appointed Lord High 
 Admiral, and Captain Ross took advantage of the circum* 
 stance to renew his application at the Board of Admiralty* 
 It is said that the Royal Duke was inclined to encourage the 
 project, but that his council advised otherwise, and the appli- 
 cation was ultimately unsuccessful. On the re-appointment 
 of .Viscount Melville, to the post of Chief Lord of the Admi- 
 ralty, the application was urged a third time, but with no 
 better success, the Board on this occasion declaring that as a 
 government measure it was useless to urge it any more, as it 
 must in that light at least be considered as abandoned. 
 
 Disappointed thus in all his attempts to obtain aid from 
 the government, Captain Ross had recourse to private indivi- 
 duals, and made known his wishes to Felix Booth Esq, who 
 had been recently filling the very honorable situation of 
 Sheriff' for the county of Middlesex. This application in the 
 first instance failed, though subsequently Captain Ross found 
 in this hi^h spirited gentleman, all that patronage and pccuni- 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE* ^59 
 
 ary assistance which his plan required. Captain Ross then 
 applied to Mr. Thornton, of Old Swan, a gentleman of a well 
 known speculative character, and who gave at first a listening 
 ear to his proposal ; nothing however excepting a series of 
 conversations on the subject took place with Mr, Thornton, 
 and at length their communications came to an end. 
 
 By way of encouragement to attempt a discovery of the 
 north-west passage, parliament had offered a reward of 
 twenty thousand pounds to the first ship which should dis- 
 cover this passage, which sum was to be paid by the Board 
 of Longitude. It appears that Mr. Booth would have been 
 disposed to assist Captain Ross on his first application, but 
 that he felt unwilling any one should suppose that his assis- 
 tance was afforded with a view to any ulterior advantage to 
 himself, or that he was moved by any motives of private 
 speculation, which might have been said while such remunera- 
 tion was given. But, since the first application to Mr. Booth, 
 the Board of Longitude had been dissolved, and thereby the 
 offer of remuneration by that board was virtually done away 
 with. In the examination of Mr. Booth before the Com- 
 mittee of the House of Commons, Mr. Booth said ** I had 
 known Captain Ross for some years, and I undertook the 
 charge of the enterprise which he commanded for the credit 
 of the country, and to serve Captain Ross ; thinking that he 
 had been slighted in the former expedition, and on account 
 of ill-natured reports which were circulated anonymously 
 against him. 1 conceived that there was a cloud hung over 
 him, and he was anxious to have the opportunity of going 
 out again. The first time he applied to me we were looking 
 over the globe, and he was explaining to me what he had 
 done before* 1 felt interested that all discoveries should be 
 made by our own countrymen, and I really was then excited, 
 and was sorry that another expedition was not appointed to go 
 out to explore the northern regions. He said he should like very 
 much to have the opportunity of going out again, but that 
 government would not send out another expedition. I said I 
 regretted very much, if that wiis the case ; but did be know it 
 
860 RObS'S SECOND VOYAdB. 
 
 for a certainty ? and he said, Not exactly, but I will endeavour 
 to ascertain. He then, 1 believe, had some private communica- 
 tion with Lord Melville, whether it was thought they should 
 do so or not. This was I think, in the year 1827 ; and Lord 
 Melville told him that there was no intention at present of 
 sending out any further expeditions, but he could not say 
 what they might do. Captain Ross then said to me, 
 I should like very much to go out again, and I think I could 
 do it at a small expense. He afterwards brought me a paper 
 containing his calculation, making it about ten thousand 
 pounds. I said, well, 1 should have no objection to advance 
 ten thousand pounds, if that would be the utmost sum re- 
 quired ; but I said I will not engage in it because there is 
 twenty thousand pounds reward for any person who shall 
 discover the passage, and it would look very much as though 
 I had an object in view. I think it was a twelvemonth after 
 that he came to me and said, now it is all over, the reward of 
 twenty thousand pounds is done away with, and there is no 
 chance of an expedition going out again. I then said to him I 
 am glad of it, and that if he wanted me to assist him I was will- 
 ing to do so. He was amazingly delighted ; on which I told 
 him I will assist you, but remember it must be in the utmost 
 confidence, and I will not do any thing inimical to govern- 
 ment. I asked him how we could find out whether that 
 would meet their approbation unless he were to mention the 
 whole circumstances; and I said I shall not do anything 
 unless it is kept a profound secret. He then informed me 
 that Lord Melville was his friend, and that he thought he could 
 mention the matter to him in confidence, and ask him whether 
 there would be any objection to a private individual fitting 
 out such an expedition. Lord Melville's answer was, that he 
 could not see any objection to a private individual fitting out 
 Buch an expedition, and that if there were any small things 
 lying at Woolwich from the former expedition, that would 
 he of service to him, he should very much like to forward 
 his views.'* 
 
 Language perhaps can scarcely furnish terms sufficiently 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 861 
 
 expressive of the noble and patriotic sentiments, manifested 
 by Mr. Booth ; and future ages will record, that a British 
 merchant from his own private resources promoted this un- 
 dertaking, which the government, with all its ample funds 
 and resources, refused to embark in. 
 
 Indeed, this sum of ten thousand pounds, was not the ex- 
 tent of his generous aid to the cause of science, and maritime 
 discovery ; for the after charges which occurred in fitting out 
 the expedition, were supplied by this disinterested individual,, 
 to the amount of between eighteen and nineteen thousand 
 pounds in the whole. 
 
 The evidence given by Commander James Ross, the 
 nephew of Captain Ross, is in many instances contradictory 
 to that of Captain Ross himself. The statement of one is 
 often diametrically opposite to that of the other, varying in 
 some of the most essential points, not only as to the general 
 conduct of the expedition, but also to the extent of the dis- 
 coveries made. In reply to a question whether he accom- 
 panied his uncle on the expedition to the Arctic seas as 
 second in command, he replied, that it was not precisely so, 
 but that in a great measure he shared in the chief command 
 with Captain Ross, and that he had the entire direction of 
 the navigation of the ship without being under Captain Ross's 
 command. Those who have been accustomed to consider 
 Captain Ross as the conductor of the expedition, and to 
 whom all the merit of the discoveries and proceedings of the 
 voyage have been attributed, will read the following extracts 
 from the evidence of Commander JameS Ross with a mea- 
 sure of surprise. He was asked — 
 
 " What was the nature of the agreement under which you 
 embarked in the expedition with Captain Ross ? 
 
 *' There was no written agreement, no specific agreement, 
 but it was quite understood that having been so long em- 
 ployed on former similar voyages, 1 best understood the 
 nature of the navigation of those seas, and therefore that I 
 should render some important assistance to him in his under- 
 taking. 
 
 r. V. 37. 5 S 
 
802 Ross's SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 "Was any stipulation entered into with Mr. Booth for 
 your going personally on the expedition, as a condition of 
 his assistance being given ? 
 
 " Mr. Booth said to me, that it depended only on me 
 whether or not he would then decide whether the expedition 
 should go or not. ' If ,* said he, *you decide that you will 
 accompany the ex[)edition, I will decide that the expedition 
 shall go, but if you hesitate to say whether you will accom- 
 pany it, I must also hesitate to decide.* 
 
 *' What portion of the duties devolved upon you in the 
 progress of the expedition ? 
 
 •' The conduct of the ship was entirely intrusted to my 
 care. 1 Certainly conducted the expedition from its com- 
 mencement to its termination. 
 
 " In the various surveys whicb took place, what part did 
 you take of the geographical discoveries made } 
 
 " The whole extent of geographical discovery is, perhaps, 
 between six and seven hundred miles of new land ; out of 
 that six or seven hundred miles, probably about two hundred 
 miles were discovered by the whole expedition in the ship; 
 the remaining four or five hundred miles were discovered by 
 myself, in the conduct of parties detached from the ship : 
 those expeditions were severally planned and conducted by 
 myself. 
 
 '* Captain Ross not accompanying you ? 
 
 *' Captain Ross not accompanying me. 
 
 " Did you personally make the observations from which 
 you inferred you had discovered the true position of the north 
 magnetic pole } 
 
 " I did ; for two years previous to the time I went to the 
 magnetic pole, I was engaged in observations, necessary to 
 determine its exact position ; having ascertained and determined 
 that exact spot, 1 then conducted a party to the point so deter- 
 mined, and there I made a series of observations, by which I 
 ascertained that to be the exact position of the magnetic pole. 
 
 '* Did you conduct the observations in Geology, Natural 
 History and Botany .? 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. B(]f> 
 
 " Slid) observations as were made upon those subjects were 
 of course conducted by myself. 
 
 " When you say you conducted them, do you mean that 
 they were confided to you by Captain Ross ? 
 
 " No, they came to me as a natural consequence. I was the 
 only person who at all understood the nature of those sub- 
 jects, but 1 was not ordered to undertake them. 1 never 
 received an order of any kind from any person in that expe- 
 dition. 
 
 " You say that you and Captain Ross were coequal ? 
 
 ** No, I do not say we were quite coequal. I say I was 
 not under his command, but I do not mean to say I had the 
 same voice as he had. 
 
 " You did not look upon yourself as undcT his command .'* 
 
 ** Certainly not, 1 would not have gone out under such 
 circumstances. 
 
 ** Had you any authority over the men ? 
 
 "I had, but it was more of habit perhaps than any thing 
 else. 
 
 " Could you have changed the course of the ship without 
 tjie authority of Captain Ross ? 
 
 " Yes, I have frequently done so, but if Captain Ross had 
 thought proper to have found fault with any thing 1 did, all 
 1 should have said would have been, * you must in future 
 conduct the expedition yourself.' 
 
 " If you and he had differed, you have no doubt which 
 would have been obeyed by the men ? 
 
 *' It would not have been right in me to have disputed that 
 point with him ; 1 never should have thought proper to have 
 continued in command of the ship, if Captain Ross wished to 
 assume the command. 
 
 " With your experience of naval matters in cases of dan- 
 ger, do you consider it possible there should be two officers of 
 coequal power ? 
 
 " No, the command must devolve on one person. 
 
 <* On whom did it devolve .'' 
 
804 Ross's SECOND VOVAGE 
 
 "In all cases it devolved upon me, as respecting the con- 
 duct of the ship. 
 
 **The question did not arise between you and Capiaiu 
 Ross ? 
 
 *' No, it was quite understood between us before we sailed. 
 
 *« Wliat was understood ? 
 
 " That I should conduct every thing myself. Captain Ross 
 might have said if he chose, ' I do not approve of this or 
 that/ and then I could only have said, *you must conduct it 
 yourself, both cannot do so.' 
 
 ** That being impossible, a deference to the one or the 
 other being required, who paid the deference ? 
 
 ** Certainly 1 should immediately have yielded, but then 
 from that moment I should have ceased to command, and 
 left him to conduct the expedition himself. 
 
 "From whom did you consideryour authority to emanate? 
 
 " From Mr. Booth. 
 
 " Do you account for this divided authority m the ship 
 from your connexion with Mr. Booth ; did you consider 
 yourself as representing the more immediate interest of Mr. 
 Booth in the ship ? 
 
 *» No, not at all. 
 
 '* You have said that Mr. Booth would not have en<ra£zcd 
 in the expedition unless you were a party to it ? 
 
 " 1 did not say he would not, 1 only repeated the conver- 
 sation between him and myself ; he said if 1 hesitated to go, 
 he would hesitate to say whether the expedition should go 
 or not. 
 
 " Had you an opportunity of personal participation in any 
 specific service to the expedition, by which you consider that 
 the lives of the people were preserved } 
 
 " I do riot know that I should quite say that I did, but 
 certainly it was essential to the safety of the people, that I 
 should leave them on one occasion. Accompanied by two of 
 the strongest of the party, • I advanced towards the Fury's 
 stores, to see whether they were there or not, for had they 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. SGo 
 
 gone there without finding the provisions, the whole or nearly 
 the whole party must have perished, but by my going and 
 returning with a supply of provisions, I enabled them to 
 reach the Fury''s stores. 
 
 " What would have been your own fate if you had not 
 found the Fury's stores? 
 
 *' I should still have subsisted on my own personal exer- 
 tions, but I could not have renclered assistance to others. 
 
 «* The preservation of discipline was perhaps a circumstance 
 most necessary on such trying occasions, for the preservation 
 of the lives of all parties concerned, some cases of insulwrdina. 
 tion might have arisen probably ? 
 
 '* There were trifling circumstances of insubordination, but 
 very trifling. 
 
 " Did not Captain Ross himself on those occasions exert a 
 controlling power ? 
 
 ** 'J hey seldom went to Captain Ross, they generally came 
 to me. 
 
 *' Do you recollect any case, in which Captain Ross ex- 
 erted his controlling power under rather trying circum- 
 stances } 
 
 " I remember one circumstance, after we had abandoned 
 our ship in which Captain Ross did exert his controlling 
 power, but it was only on one occassion. 
 
 *' Was not very prompt decision necessary on that occasion } 
 
 *' Yes, certainly. 
 
 ** State what Captain Ross did upon the occasion ? 
 
 " I was not present upon that occasion, and only lieard of 
 it. 1 am not aware of ihe circumstances." 
 
 With the view of confirming or refuting the evidence of 
 Commander Ross in regard to the rank, which he held on 
 board the Victory, Captain Ross was re-examined by the 
 committee, and the first question that was put to him was : 
 
 " AVith regard to the command of the expedition, you con- 
 sidered yourself in command from beginning to end ? 
 
 '* Certainly. 
 
866 noss's second voyage 
 
 " Did you consider yourself in command of Commander 
 Ross as well as the others ? 
 
 " Certainly. 
 
 " You considered him as under your orders ? 
 
 *' Yes. 
 
 " Did any agreement take place between you and him be- 
 fore you started ? 
 
 '* No, he said that he would agree to the agreement but it 
 was never put into execution. 
 
 *^ What was the understanding ? 
 
 " I'he understanding was, that he was to go as second in 
 command. 
 
 " It was not a joint command ? 
 
 ** Not in my idea, certainly. 1 would never enter on a 
 joint command with any one ; there can be but one com- 
 mander on board a ship. 
 
 «* When Commander Ross left the ship, did he go accord- 
 ing to his own direction ? 
 
 " I gave him unlimited power to do as he found best, for 
 that must always be done in an unknown region. 
 
 «* The authority emanated from you ? 
 
 " Yes, he could not have gone without my permission. 
 
 ** Had, throughout the expedition. Commander Ross the 
 command of the ship ? 
 
 " Never, but under my orders ; I allowed him to do the 
 duty as first Lieutenant, I gave him the command, wliich I 
 conceive a first Lieutenant ought to have, but he has no 
 right to say that he had a joint command with me. 
 
 " The first Lieutenant of a king's ship takes the command ? 
 
 " Yes and carries on the duty. 1 had other things to do 
 in many respects, and he had power to work the ship, and put 
 her about without reference to me. 
 
 "The responsibihty rested with you ? 
 
 '' Yes. 
 
 " Was he amenable to you for disobedience of orders? 
 
 '* It would have been mutiny. 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 867 
 
 " Do you think it possible that Commander Ross should 
 have imagined he had an independent command ? 
 
 " It was impossible, he must have known discipline better 
 than to suppose there could be two commanders in one ship. 
 
 " Did Commander Ross ever assert an independence of 
 your command ? 
 
 '* There were circumstances of that nature arose, but I 
 immediately took that part which prevented their recurrence. 
 
 '* You uniformly asserted your own authority as the com- 
 mander of the ship ? 
 
 " Yes, in every case, when it came to a desperate case, I 
 saw the necessity of taking nobody's advice, and acted on 
 my own decision. I never asked him a question except on 
 some rock, whether to go on this or that side : I refer to the 
 period when we abandoned the ship ; it was life and death 
 with us then, and I found I was more called on to uphold 
 my authority than I had been before, and I was always pre- 
 sent with the people. In the other case it was necessary to 
 give Commander Ross more command, because he was absent 
 from me with part of the crew. There was one particular 
 instance when the men demanded to know what I was going 
 to do, and I said I would not condescend to tell them, but 
 they were to obey my orders, and that the first man that 
 refused it must answer for the consequences, and 1 heard no 
 more of it. 
 
 *' He received no distinct authority from Mr. Booth ? 
 
 *« None whatever, he does not even know of my agree- 
 ments with Mr. Booth, he never saw them. 
 
 " The expeditions he undertook were undertaken at your 
 suggestion ? 
 
 " Entirely of my suggestion, he did not even know Mr. 
 Booth until I introduced him. 
 
 *' Had Commander Ross refused to accompany you, should 
 you have gone ? 
 
 ** 1 should. 
 
 *' Would Mr. Booth have consented f 
 
 *' Certainly he would. 
 
86^ noss's SECOND voyage 
 
 It is impossible to reconcile the evidence of Captain Ross 
 and Commander Ross, and certainly had the latter been able 
 to make out his case according to the testimony which he 
 gave, there scarcely remains a doubt that tlie proposed grant 
 would not have been recommended by the committee, for it 
 would have divested Captain Ross of the principal feature of 
 his claim. The following examination of Mr. Booth will 
 shew that Commander Ross must have been actually labour- 
 ing under a delusion, in supposing that any authority was 
 delegated to him by that sjentleman, or that he was to be 
 considered in the slightest degree as holding afi independent 
 command in the ship. 
 
 In addition to what hath been stated from the evidence 
 of Mr. Booth he says. " It was suggested there should be 
 two ships and a second was fitted out, (the John,) but the 
 crew of that vessel mutinied in consequence of the great delay 
 that had occurred, and they proceeded on without her ; the 
 proceeds from the sale of this vessel were £1800, therefore mv 
 advance now rests between £17,000 and £18,000. During 
 the absence of the expedition I maintained the men's wives, 
 and expended about c£380, which has been since stopped from 
 the men out of the payment, which has been made to thtm 
 by government. 
 
 A member of the committee asked Mr. Booth, *' To whom 
 did you give the command of the expedition ? 
 
 " To Captain Ross. 
 
 ** Captain Ross was the sole commander r 
 
 " Yes, he was the sole commander, with liberty to appoint 
 whom he pleased under him ; I only said, let them be men 
 who will be of great service. I left the command entirely 
 to him. 
 
 " Did you make any stipulation that Commander Ross 
 should accompany him ? 
 
 " No, it was the wish of his uncle, which I thought a 
 very natural one ; his uncle said, he was not doing any thing, 
 and was a clever young man, and if I had no objection, he 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 869 
 
 should like him to accompany him, as it might obtain his pro- 
 motion. 
 
 " Had Commander Ross refused to go, would you have 
 sent the expedition? 
 
 " Certainly I should. 
 
 *' If Captain Back had been selected by Captain Ross, 
 would he have been equally acceptable to you ? 
 
 *' Most undoubtedly ; I left it to Captain Ross to appoint 
 whom he pleased to accompany him. With regard to Com* 
 mander Ross, after I was introduced to him, I told him I was 
 delighted to think he was going, he having been out in the 
 former expedition, and having been in the Fury when she 
 was lost, I thought he would be of infinite service to the ex- 
 pedition.'" 
 
 The result of the evidence of Mr. Booth must be consi- 
 dered as a direct corroboration of that given by Captain Ross, 
 and consequently contrary to that which was given by Com- 
 mander Ross. It establishes the point, that Captain Ross 
 was in possession of the chief and sole command of the ex- 
 pedition, and that Commander Ross could not regard him- 
 self in any other character than th^t of a subordinate officer. 
 
 Captain Back and Captain Hoppner each of them made 
 offers of their services to Captain Ross. Captain Back's offer 
 was made in Parliament-street, where he met Captain Ross 
 walking with his nephew, when he said, *« Will you take me 
 on any terms; I will go as draftsman, or any thing you 
 choose to make me." Captain Hoppner made a similar offer, 
 verbally at first, and subsequently in writing. The following 
 is a copy of Captain Hoppner's letter, with the reply of Cap- 
 tain Ross : 
 
 « My Dear Sir, 
 
 " As I feel so much interested in your noble enterprise, 
 I cannot help expressing myself more explicitly on the sub- 
 ject next my heart. If you will accept of my services, I am 
 ready to go with you, in any capacity, and will make over all 
 I am worth in the world for the advancement of your object. 
 
 P. V. ST. 5 T 
 
870 Ross's SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 I promise you most implicit obedience ; and will never offet* 
 an opinion, unless required. Be assured of my devotion to 
 the great and noble undertaking, and 
 
 " Believe me 
 ** Your very humble Servant, 
 
 " H. P. Hoppner;' 
 « R. N. Club, Bond Street, 
 ^^ Saturday, March o\st" 
 
 " P.S. There is no occupation so lowly that I will not 
 undertake." 
 
 REPLY. 
 
 '« 160, Bond Street, 
 ''23rd March 1829. 
 «*Mir Dkar Sir, 
 
 " I return you my warmest thanks for the handsome 
 manner in which you have volunteered your services; but my 
 arrangements are finally made ; and I regret that it is there- 
 fore out of my power to accept them. J am grateful for 
 your kind wishes of success ; and I pray you to believe me 
 Very truly 
 
 " Yours, 
 
 *' John Ross." 
 *' To Captain Hoppner, R. W 
 
 Captain Ross, however, naturally enough preferred, even 
 to this most disinterested offer, that his own nephew should 
 accompany him. He then at once, all the preliminary ar- 
 rangements having been made, proceeded to Liverpool, where 
 he purchased the Victor?/^ which was fitted up with engines 
 of peculiar construction, so made as to take up the least pos- 
 sible space* Some more time was spent in the preparations ; 
 and at length, on Saturday, the 23rd of May, 1829, the Vic- 
 tory sailed from Woolwich, on its voyage to the North Seas. 
 
 The following are the names of the crew of the Victory, as 
 she left this country :— 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 871 
 
 Captain John Ross, 1st. in Command. 
 
 Commander James Clarke Ross,. . . . 2nd. in Command 
 
 Mr. Thorn, Purser. 
 
 Mr. George M*Diarmid, Surgeon. 
 
 William Light. • Steward. 
 
 Thomas Blanky, Mate. 
 
 Richard Wall, and Anthony Buck, Seamen. 
 
 A Han M'Innes, Second engineer. 
 
 James Marslin, Armourer. 
 
 John Park, Joseph Curtis, Jolin] ^ 
 
 • Wood, } ^'''"'"- 
 
 Robert Shrewe, Carpenter^s Mate. 
 
 Henry A y re, • • ....•• Cook. 
 
 Thomas Abernethie, Mate. 
 
 Chimham Thomas, • Carpenter. 
 
 Geoge Taylor, Mate. 
 
 Alexander Brunton, • • First engineer. 
 
 Barney Lackey, Landman. 
 
 David Wood, • Seaman, 
 
 James Dixon, and George Baxter, • . Landmen. 
 
 The following letter was written by Captain Ross to Cap- 
 tain the Hon. George Elliott, C. B,, chief secretary to the 
 Admiralty, and dated on board the Isabella of Hull, Baffin's 
 Bay, September 1833. 
 
 ♦' On board the Isahella of H ally 
 Baffin's Bay^ September 1833. 
 
 " Sir, 
 
 " Knowing how deeply my Lords Commissioners of 
 the Admiralty are interested in the advancement of natural 
 knowledge, and particularly in the improvement of geography, 
 I have to acquaint you, for the information of their Lord- 
 ships, that the expedition, the main object of which is to 
 solve, if possible, the question of a N. W. passage from the 
 Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, particularly by Prince Regent's 
 Inlet, and which sailed from England in May, 1829, notwith- 
 standing the loss of the foremast and other untoward circum- 
 
872 Ross's SECOND VOYAGE. 
 
 Stances which obliged the vessel to refit in Greenland, reached 
 the beach on which His Majesty's late ship Fury's stores 
 were landed, on the 13th of August. 
 
 *' We found the boats, provisions, &c., in excellent con- 
 dition, but no vestige of the wreck. After completing our 
 fuel and other necessaries, we sailed on the 14th, and on the 
 following morning rounded Cape Garry, where our new dis- 
 coveries commenced, and keeping the western shore close on 
 board, ran down the coast in a S.W. by W. course, in from 
 ten to twenty fathoms, until we had passed the lat. of 7^° N., 
 in long. 94° W.; here we found a considerable inlet leading 
 to the westward, the examination of which occupied two 
 days; at this place we were first seriously obstructed by ice, 
 which was now sure (seen) to extend from the South Cape 
 of the inlet in a solid mass round by S. and E. to E.N.E. 
 Owing to this circumstance, the shallowness of the water, the 
 rapidity of the tide, the tempestuous weather, the irregularity 
 of the coast, and the numerous inlets and rocks for which it 
 is remarkable, our progress was no less dangerous than 
 tedious ; yet we succeeded in penetrating into the lat. of 
 70° N. in long. 9^** W. when the land after having carried 
 us as far E. as 90°, took a decided westerly direction ; 
 while land, at the distance of forty miles to southward, was 
 seen trending east and west. At this extreme point our pro- 
 gress was arrested, on the 1st of October, by an impenetrable 
 barrier of ice. We, however, found an excellent wintering 
 port, which we named Felix Harbour. 
 
 " Early in January, 1830, we had the good fortune to 
 establish a friendly intercourse with a most interesting asso- 
 ciation of natives, who being insulated by nature, had never 
 before communicated with strangers: from them we gradual- 
 ly obtained the important information that we had already 
 seen the continent of America ; that, about forty miles to the 
 S.W. there were two great seas, one to the west, which was 
 divided from that to the east by a narrow strait or neck of land. 
 The verification of this inteUigence, either way, on which 
 our future operations so materially depended, devolved on 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 873 
 
 Commander Ross, who volunteered this service earJy in April, 
 and accompanied by one of the mates and guided by two of 
 the natives, proceeded to the spot and foiind that the north 
 land was connected to the south by two ridges of high land, 
 fifteen miles in breadth; but taking into account a chain of 
 fresh water lakes which occupied the valleys between, the dry 
 land, which actually separates the two oceans, is only five 
 miles. This extraordinary isthmus was subsequently visited 
 by myself, when Commander Ross proceeded minutely to 
 survey the sea coast to the southward of the isthmus, leading 
 to the westward, which he succeeded in tracing to the 99% or to 
 150 miles of Cape Turnagain of Franklin, to which point the 
 land after leading him into the 70" of N. lat. trended direct- 
 ly : during the same journey he also surveyed 30 miles of the 
 adjacent coast, or that to the north of the isthmus, which, by 
 also taking a westerly direction, formed the termination of the 
 western sea into a gulf. The rest of this season was employ- 
 ed in tracing the sea coast of the isthmus leading to the east- 
 ward, which was done so as to leave no doubt that it joined, 
 as the natives had previously informed us, to Ackullee and the 
 land forming Repulse Bay. It was also determined that there 
 was no passage to the westward for thirty miles to the north- 
 ward of our position. 
 
 *'This summer, like that of 1818, was beautifully fine, but 
 extremely unfavouiable for navigation ; and our object being 
 now to try a more northern latitude, we waited with anxiety 
 for the disruption of the ice, but in vain, and our utmost en- 
 deavours did not succeed in retracing our steps more than five 
 miles ; and it was not until the middle of November that 
 we succeeded in cutting the vessel into a place of security, 
 which we named ' Sheriff's Harbour.' I may here mention 
 that we named the newly discovered continent to the south- 
 ward, * Boothia,' as also the isthmus, the peninsula to the 
 north, and the eastern sea, after my worthy friend Felix 
 Booth, Esq., the truly patriotic citizen of London, who in the 
 most disinterested manner enabled me to equip this expedition 
 in a superior style. 
 
874 ROSS'S SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 '« The last winter was in temperature nearly equal to the 
 mean of what had been experienced on the four preceding 
 voyages: but the winters of 1830 and 1831 set in with a 
 degree of violence hitherto beyond record, the thermometer 
 sank to 92° below the freezing point, and the average of the 
 year was 10° below the preceding ; but notwithstanding the 
 severity of the summer, we travelled across the country to 
 the west sea, by a chain of lakes, thirty miles north of the 
 isthmus, when Commander Ross succeeded in surveying fifty 
 miles more of the coast leading to the north-west; and by 
 tracing this shore to the northward of our position, it was also 
 fully proved that there could be no passage below the 71st 
 degree. 
 
 *' This autumn we succeeded in getting the vessel only 
 fourteen miles to the north-ward, and as we had not doubled 
 the Eastern Cape, all hopes of saving the ship were at an 
 end, and put quite beyond possibility by another very severe 
 winter; and having only provisions to last us to June 1832, 
 dispositions were accordingly made to leave the ship in her 
 ])resent port, which (after her) was named * Victory Harbour/ 
 Provisions and fuel being carried forward in the spring, we 
 left the ship on the 29th of May, 1832, for Fury Beach, being 
 the only chance left of saving our lives. Owing to the very 
 rugged nature of the ice, we were obliged to keep either upon 
 or close to the land, making the circuit of every bay, thus in- 
 creasing our distance of two hundred miles by nearly one 
 half, and it was not until the 1st of July that we reached the 
 beach, completely exhausted by hunger and fatigue. 
 
 ** A hut was speedily constructed, and the boats, three of 
 which had been washed off the beach, but providentially 
 driven on shore again, were repaired during this month ; 
 but the unusual heavy appearance of the ice afforded us no 
 cheering prospect until the 1st of August, when in three 
 boats we reached the ill-fated spot where the Fury was first 
 driven on shore, and it was not until the 1st of September we 
 reached Leopold South Island, now established to be the 
 north east point of America, in lat. 93" 53', and Ion-. 70' W, 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 875 
 
 JFrom the summit of the lofty mountain on the promontory, 
 we could see Prince Regent's Inlet, Barrow's Strait, and Lan- 
 caster Sound, which presented one impenetrable mass of ice, 
 just as I had seen it in 1818 ; here we remained in a state of 
 anxiety and suspense which may be easier imagined than de- 
 scribed. All our attempts to push through were vain. At 
 length, being forced by want of provisions, and the approach 
 of a most severe winter, to return to Fury Beach, where alone 
 there remained wherewith to sustain life, we arrived there on 
 the 7th of October, after a most fatiguing and laborious march, 
 having been obliged to leave our boats at Batty Bay. Our 
 habitation, which consisted of a frame of spars, thirty-two 
 feet by sixteen, covered with canvass, was, during the month 
 of November, inclosed, and the roof covered with snow from 
 four to seven feet thick, which being saturated with water 
 when the temperature was 15 degrees below zero, immediate- 
 ly took the consistency of ice, and thus we actually became the 
 inhabitants of an iceberg during one of the most severe winters 
 hitherto recorded ; our sufferings, aggravated by want of bed- 
 ding, clothing, and animal food, need not be dwelt upon. Mr. 
 C. Thomas, the carpenter, was the only man who perished at 
 the beach, but three others, besides one who had lost his foot, 
 were reduced to the last stage of debility, and only thirteen of 
 our number were able to carry provisions, in severe journeys 
 of sixty-two miles each to Batty Bay. We left Fury Beach 
 on the 8th of July, carrying with us three sick men, who 
 were unable to walk, and in six days we reached the boats, 
 where the sick daily recovered. Although the spring was 
 mild, it was not until the 15th of August that we had any 
 cheering prospect. A gale from the westward having sud- 
 denly opened a lane of water along shore, in two days we 
 reached our former position, and from the mountain we had 
 the satisfaction of seeing clear water almost directly across 
 Prince Regent's Inlet, which we ciossed on the 17th, and 
 took shelter from a storm twelve miles to the eastward of Cape 
 York. Next day, \vhen the ga'e abated, we crossed Ad- 
 miralty Inlet, and were detained six days on the coast by 
 
876 Ross's SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 SL strong north-east wind. On the 25th we crossed Navy 
 Board Inlet, and on the following morning, to our inexpres- 
 sible joy, we descried a ship in the offing, becalmed, which 
 proved to be the Isabella of Elull, the same ship which I 
 commanded in 1818 : at noon we reached her, when her enter- 
 prising commander, who had in vain searched for us in Prince 
 Regent''s Inlet, after giving us three cheers, received us with 
 every demonstration of kindness and hospitality which huma- 
 nity could dictate. 1 ought to mention also, that Mr. Hum- 
 phries, by landing me at Possession Bay, and subsequently on 
 the west coast of Baffin's Bay, affiarded me an excellent oppor- 
 tunity of concluding my survey, and of verifying my former 
 chart of that coast. 
 
 " I have now the pleasing duty of calUng the attention of 
 their lordships to the merits of Commander Ross, who was 
 second in command in the direction of this expedition. The 
 labours of this officer, who had the departments of astronomy, 
 natural history, and surveying, will speak for themselves in 
 language beyond the ability of my pen; but they will be duly 
 appreciated by their lordships and the learned bodies of which 
 he is a member, and who are already well acquainted with his 
 acquirements* 
 
 *' iMy steady and faithful friend, Mr. WiUiara Thorn of the 
 Royal Navy, who was formerly with me in the Isabella, besides 
 his duty as third in command, took charge of the meteorolo- 
 gical journal, and the distribution and economy of provisions ; 
 and to his judicious plans and suggestions must be attributed 
 the uncommon degree of health which our crew enjoyed ; and 
 as two out of three who died during the four and a half years 
 were cut off early in the voyage by diseases not peculiar to 
 the climate, only one man can be said to have perished. 
 
 " Mr. M'Diarmid, the surgeon, who had been several 
 voyages to these regions, did justice to the high recommenda- 
 tion I received of him : he was successful in every amputation 
 and operation which he performed, and wonderfully so in his 
 treatment of the sick ; and I have no hesitation in adding, 
 that he would be an ornament to his Majesty's service. 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 87t 
 
 *•' Commander Ross, Mr. Thom, and myself, have indeed 
 been serving without pay, but in common with the crew have 
 lost our all, which I regret the more, because it puts it totally 
 out of my power adequately to remunerate my fellow-sufferers, 
 whose case I cannot but recommend for their lordships' con- 
 sideration, 
 
 ** We have, however, the consolation, that the results of 
 this expedition have been conclusive, and to science highly 
 important, and may be briefly comprehended in the following 
 words: the discovery of the Gulf of Boothia, the Continent 
 and Isthmus of Boothia Felix, and a vast number of islands, 
 rivers, and lakes; the undeniable establishment that the 
 north-eastern point of America extends to the 74th degree of 
 north latitude ; valuable observations of every kind, but par- 
 ticularly on the magnet ; and, to crown all, we have had the 
 honour of placing the illustrious name of our most gracious 
 Sovereign William the Fourth on the true position of the 
 magnetic pole. 
 
 " I cannot conclude this letter, sir, without acknowledging 
 the important advantages we obtained from the valuable pub- 
 lications of Sir Edward Parry and Sir John Franklin, and the 
 communications kindly made to us by those distinguished offi- 
 cers before our departure from England. 
 
 **But the glory of this enterprise is entirely due to Him 
 whose divine favour has been most especially manifested to- 
 wards us, who guided and directed all our steps, who merci- 
 fully provided effectual means for our preservation, and who, 
 even after the devices and inventions of man had utterly 
 failed, crowned our hunble endeavours with complete success. 
 ** I have the honour to be, &c., 
 
 *' John Ross, Captain R.N." 
 
 This statement is truly modest, plain, simple, and affecting ; 
 and its assertions, according to the report of the Parliamentary 
 Committee, are fully confirmed, as far as they have been examin- 
 ed by the evidence which appeared before them ; and is sup- 
 ported by the opinions of Captain Beaufort, hydrographer to 
 
 P.V.37. 5XJ 
 
878 ROSSS SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 the Admiralty ; of Mr. Children, one of the secretaries of the 
 Royal Society, and of Professor Barlow, who has made the 
 magnetic variations his particular study. 
 
 After inspecting several vessels, Captain Ross finally pur- 
 chased the Victory, which was originally a Liverpool trader, 
 and in March 1829 she was taken into Mr. Fletcher's dock at 
 Limehouse, in order that she might undergo such alterations 
 and repairs as were considered necessary. It being the deter- 
 mination of Captain Ross that his vessel should combine the 
 advantages of steam power with that of a sailing vessel, boil- 
 ers for that purpose were erected occupying so small a space 
 that they were fixed between the engines ; the consumption 
 of fuel was one half, and the weight of the engines one fourth 
 of those generally in use. It was also so constructed that a 
 chimney could be dispensed with, leaving the deck, masts and 
 rigging wholly unincumbered. 
 
 On the 2:3rd of May 1829 the Victory left Limehouse, 
 and sailed down the river. At Deptford several useful arti- 
 cles from His Majesty's dock yard, were put on board, which 
 it was thought would prove conducive to the health and com- 
 fort of the crew when they arrived in more northern latitudes. 
 At AVoolwich the crew were paid their wages in advance, and 
 the vessel proceeded down the river amidst the acclamations 
 of multitudes. The weather was calm and serene, and the 
 colours fluttered in the breeze : they were the handy work 
 of a lady who was an ardent admirer of the spirited conduct 
 of Captain Ross. At this place they received from His Ma- 
 jesty's dock yard, a fine launch and two boats, which had been 
 out with Captain Franklin, together with all their stores. 
 
 At Gravesend they took a pilot on board ; and, at Margate, 
 Sheriff Booth and other friends who had come down were put 
 on shore, and bade a final farewell to their gallant friends, 
 after wishing them a prosperous voyage, and happy return to 
 their native land. 
 
 On the 25th the Victory passed the Portland lights, mak- 
 ing but slow progress. On the 5rd of June, they passed 
 Holyhead, but the engine proving defective, they put into 
 
TO thp: north ror.E. 879 
 
 port Douglas in the Isle of Man, where Captain Ross went 
 on shore, and the vessel was quickly crowded with visit{ rs ; 
 Captain Ross and Commander James Ross, were invited to 
 dine with the governor, and they remained here until the 7th, 
 when they made sail for Port Logan in North Britain. 
 
 On the 8th of June a serious accident happened to WilHam 
 Hardy the stoker, whose arm was nearly torn off by one of the 
 spur wheels, and which rendered amputation necessary. He 
 was sent on shore to Captain Ross's house at Stanraer. It 
 was afterwards found necessary for him to undergo the pain- 
 ful operation of amputation a second time. 
 
 Jt was the plan of Captain Ross that a second vessel, laden 
 with certain stores which might be necessary, should accom- 
 pany him as far as a certain latitude, and then shipping the 
 stores on board the Victory, she should act as a trading 
 vessel, procure a cargo of oil or other commodities, and 
 return home. For this purpose he engaged a vessel called 
 the John, and which accompanied him thus far on his voy- 
 age. The season however was now so far advanced that 
 the prospect of their deriving any advantage from the whale 
 fishery was very dubious ; a suspicion therefore arose, in the 
 minds of the crew of the John, that to them it would be an 
 unproductive, and perhaps also a very hazardous voyage ; in- 
 asmuch as the John was not equipped in such a manner as to 
 contend with many of the difficulties which ships may expect 
 to meet with if they remain at a late part of the season in 
 those dangerous seas, among fields of ice, and without pos- 
 sessing a sufficient portion of those things necessary for them 
 to meet the rigour of the climate. Under these impressions 
 of mind, the crew of the John desired Captain Ross to enter 
 into an engagement not to require them to sail beyond a cer- 
 tain latitude. To these requisitions Captain Ross objected, 
 and the crew of the John refused to proceed on their voyage. 
 Under this state of embarrassment. Captain Ross enquired of 
 the crew of the Victory if they were willing to proceed, and 
 was happily relieved from his anxiety, by a ready assent from 
 every man on board. Every exertion was now made to re- 
 
8G0 noss's second voyage 
 
 move the stores from the John, and which having been effect- 
 ed, on the 13th they proceeded on their intended voyage. 
 
 The 24th being Captain Ross's birthday, one of the bul- 
 locks was killed, and an extra allowance of grog issued to 
 commemorate the event. A number of birds were now seen 
 which indicated their approach to land. On the 28th bei no- 
 Sunday, the crew attended divine service, a practice which 
 Captain Ross continued to adopt whenever the weather and 
 the duties of the service permitted. On the 1st of Julv a 
 suit of warm clothing was issued to each of the crew, together 
 with such other necessaries as would be required for their 
 protection against the inclemency of the climate, which now it 
 was to be expected they would shortly have to contend with. 
 
 On the 8th of July the first land was seen, and many birds 
 were seen of different kinds, many of which were shot by the 
 crew ; several fish were seen on the 9th, and on the lOth the 
 provisions which had been removed from the John to the 
 launch were taken out, from a fear, that as they were ap- 
 proaching the ice, some accident might occur by which the 
 stores might be lost. 
 
 On the 13th the first ice-berg was seen. The land being in 
 sight, a boat was sent out for the purpose of loading her with 
 ice, as they were not only very short of water, but it was also 
 required for the steam engine. A cargo of ice was according- 
 ly obtained, and every effort used to urge the vessel on her 
 way ; a fair wind springing up, all sail was set, a brig was 
 seen standing in for the land ; a number of whales were also 
 seen, one of which came so near the ship that it was fired 
 at, but the shot did not appear to have taken effect. 
 
 The steam engine appears, through the whole of the voy- 
 age, to have been very defective in its operations. On the 
 17th, some of the apparatus suddenly gave way, and on ex- 
 amining where the defect lay, it was ascertained that two of the 
 pipes in the fore and aft boiler had burst. Captain Ross, the 
 engineers, and the armourers were up all night to repair the 
 damage, and water was afterwards pumped into them to try 
 their capability, but they were found as useless as ever. A 
 
TO THE KORTH POLE. 881 
 
 number of whales were seen at a distance, playing about a 
 large ice-berg, apparently by their motions in search of their 
 prey, and fishing lines were put overboard, by which several 
 halibut and cod were caught. 
 
 On the 23rd the ship was close in with Wylic Ford, and 
 sent a boat on shore to look for a harbour. At three o'clock 
 Commander James Ross returned, and took the ship into an 
 excellent harbour, and made her fast to the rocks in three 
 fathoms water. 
 
 The Governor of the place, and the minister came on board 
 to visit the Captain on the following day, and took breakfast 
 with them ; Commander James Ross afterwards accompanied 
 the party to land. They here learned that one of the Green- 
 land fishing vessels, named the Rockwood, lay a wreck in- 
 side the harbour; and Captain Ross being in want of many 
 things with which he could be supplied from the wreck of this 
 vessel, he entered into a negotiation with the governor for the 
 purchase of the stores of this vessel. The terms being agreed 
 to, the Victory was taken to the place where the Rockwood 
 lay, for the more convenient and speedy shipment of her 
 stores. 
 
 On the 25th a few Esquimaux came on board and exchang- 
 ed a variety of articles for skins and warm clothing ; they 
 also procured a quantity of warm clothing from the governor, 
 with whom Captain Ross and his nephew dined. On the 
 following day, all things being prepared, the vessel shipped 
 lier anchor and got under way. The governor and the min- 
 ister of the place accompanied the vessel out of the harbour, 
 when they took their leave, giving the Victory three cheers, 
 which were returned by the Victory with a salute by three 
 bombs. 
 
 On the 27th the second bullock was killed, it becoming ne- 
 cessary in consequence of the shortness of food, calculated for 
 its support, and from the severity of the weather, which in all 
 probability would have occasioned its death. On this day 
 Wood, one of the seamen, had the misfortune to break his leg 
 as he was getting into the boat and while the ship was hove to 
 
SH^ ROSS'S SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 in order to get bim on board, the fore-top mast was carried away. 
 Fortunately they had obtained another fore-top mast from the 
 wreck of the Rock wood, and clearing the other away, soon sup- 
 plied its place. 
 
 On the 28th they made the island of Disco, and on the 
 following day, steering a N.N.W. course, they kept a look 
 out for Lancaster Sound. On the same evening a cask 
 was picked up marked Jane, which it was supposed belonged 
 to a vessel of that name which had been lost. The weather 
 was now remarkably fine, and although the Victory was now 
 in the same latitude and longitude as that wherein the Hecla 
 and the Fury were beset in the ice, yet as far as the eye could 
 reach, the sea appeared to be perfectly clear of ice. 
 
 On the 31st the west land of Davis's Straits was seen, and 
 the ship sailed with a fine fair wind, but it afterwards becom- 
 ing calm, the steam was got up. One of the boilers however 
 proved leaky ; notwithstanding which the fire was kept in all 
 night, though the attempt was of little use, for although no 
 impediment presented itself by the ice to the free navigation 
 of the vessel, the rate of progress did not exceed two knots 
 an hour; indeed the engine was so continually in fault from 
 different circumstances that no progress could be made with 
 it. 
 
 On the 10th of August they entered Prince Regent''s Inlet, 
 and on the following day came in sight of Prince Leopold's 
 Islands. On the evening of the 12th they had a view of the 
 place where the Fury was abandoned. The ship now stood in 
 for the land, a boat sounding a-head of the ship all the way 
 until they arrived at the Fury"'s stores. All the officers of the 
 ship went on shore, but no vestige of the Fury remained. On 
 examining the stores which had been left b}^ the Fury they 
 were ftrand to be in sound condition, and this put the crew of 
 the Victory in high spirits, and they humorously styled their 
 present situation the North Pole Victualling Yard. They 
 were furnished with a good supper from the preserved meats 
 which were found on the beach, and declared them to be in 
 most excellent condition. All hands were now set to work to 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 883 
 
 remove some of the stores on board the Victory, and she was 
 as it might be said re-victualled from the present resources. 
 
 Four years had intervened since the Fury was abandoned, 
 during which period the stores had been lying on the beach 
 exposed to the severity of four polar winters. Notwithstand- 
 ing these circumstances, all was in excellent condition, except- 
 ing the bread, which was partially spoiled, being musty where 
 the weather had penetrated, but towards the middle of the 
 casks it was in good condition. 
 
 Having thus replenished the stores of the Victory from 
 these resources, she left Fury Point, sailing along land which 
 had not been discovered. On the 16th they came to an is- 
 land, which being beyond the latitude to which Captain 
 
 Parry had sailed, and consequently now first discovered, 
 
 the officers went on shore and took formal possession of the 
 country for his Majesty Kmg George : the silk colours were 
 hoisted, three cheers were given, and the whole of the crew 
 remaining on board answered the cheers, 'i'he latitude of the 
 island was 71*^ north. 
 
 On the 18th, while sailing among loose ice, a young whale 
 came and played around the ship, when one of the seamen 
 struck her with a lance, but there being no line to the lance 
 she plunged away and escaped. While sailing through the 
 ice it was evident that the strain on the vessel was almost more 
 than she could bear, but it was only by carr)'ing a press of 
 sail that she could now make her way through the ice, and the 
 choice of evils alone was left, either to run the chance of car- 
 rying away some of the masts and rigging, or to suffer the 
 ship to be beset in the ice and the season was fast closing up- 
 on them. Two bears were seen on the ice, one of which was 
 severely wounded, but it got away. Several whales also were 
 seen, but at too great a distance to be attacked. 
 
 On the 15th of September the approach of winter was an- 
 nounced by a fall of snow ; the prospect was dreary and could 
 not be looked at but with some measure of cheerless concern. 
 Th^y had not hwvever met with any impenetrable barrier to 
 
834« Ross's SECOND VOYAQK 
 
 their progress, and two circumstances of peculiar good fortune 
 had attended them; the first was the possession of the stores 
 of the Rock woods and the other, that of finding the provi- 
 sions of the Fury in such excellent condition. A great par' 
 of the Fury's stores still remained untouched on the beach, 
 so that in case of necessity they had only to return to that 
 spot and they would obtain the supply they might be in want of 
 
 At this time the ship was surrounded by closely packed ice 
 and was moored to an ice-berg. On the morning of the 18th 
 one of the bergs got afloat, and they were obliged to moor 
 the ship afresh. Captain Ross and his nephew went on shore, 
 and ascended a high hill to take a more particular view of their 
 situation. The sea appeared open before them as far as the 
 eye could reach ; but the ship lay tossing at the edge of the 
 floe without any prospect of being liberated at present, the 
 ice forming a complete blockade. It was determined there • 
 fore to attempt sawing a passage through the ice. This at- 
 tempt was immediately put into practice, and by noon they 
 liad sawn nearly to the ship, and she was now held only by 
 a small floe which was attached to the ground ice. The ship 
 was then made fast to a berg which was moving to the N.E. 
 by a five inch hawser ; but this attempt was unsuccessful and 
 broke. After this all hands were turned out with axes and 
 handspikes, which fortunately accomplished their purpose. The 
 ship was immediately got under weigh, and before night they 
 sailed ten miles. 
 
 On the 27th it blew very hard from thenorth,butthe situ- 
 ation of the ship protected her in a great degree. It now be- 
 gan to occupy their attention where they should take up 
 their winter quarters. It was on the 28th of September, 1624, 
 that Captain Parry went into Port Bowen with the Hecla and 
 Fury, and did not leave it until the 26th of July following. 
 It was very reasonable therefore to suppose that their labours 
 were fast drawing to a close for this season ; Captain Ross and 
 Commander James Ross, set out to discover a proper harbour 
 for the winter, but returned unsuccessful. They saw the im- 
 
^> 
 
 <^^ 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 883 
 
 pression of the feet of several animals, among others that of a 
 bear which measured thirteen inches and a half in breadth and 
 fourteen inches and a half in length. But that which afforded 
 them the most satisfaction, were the remains of an Esquimaux 
 hut which had been recently built, and which cheered them 
 with the liope that a tribe of those people were residing some- 
 where near, and that the ship's company might have inter- 
 course with them during the winter. The day following, as 
 Commander James Ross and the surgeon were exploring the 
 country, they observed a trap which had been very lately 
 made for the capture of some of the animals, and this con- 
 firmed them in the conviction that some of the native inha- 
 bitants were not far distant. 
 
 From the state of the weather, it began to be evident that 
 tlieir winter quarters was the place of their present destina- 
 tion. They had now been five days in their present position, 
 which was about seven miles from the land, and the ice had 
 considerably increased in thickness. The aurora borealis were 
 now very prevalent, and increased in number and brilliancy 
 as the season advanced, forming a splendid arch over the hea- 
 vens, and running into each other with inconceivable velocity. 
 The internal motion appears as a sudden glow, bursting forth 
 in various parts of the arch somewhat like the ignition of 
 combustible matter. Some of these streams of light are in 
 soft lines like rays, others are waving and in all sorts of irre- 
 gular figures, and have in consequence obtained the name of 
 the merry dancers. 
 
 The aurora borealis begins to appear in October, and con- 
 tinues till May, but are strongest from November till March, 
 continually succeeding each other, sometimes for several days, 
 and at other times only appearing for a few minutes. 
 
 'i'hey now commenced dismantling the ship and tilting up 
 their winter quarters. All the sails were unbent, and she was 
 literally stripped. An accident happened to one of the men, 
 as the^ were taking the engine to pieces, which confined him 
 to his hammock and deprived the party of his services, . Qn 
 taking an account of their stores, it was found that they had 
 
 r. V. Q8. 5 X 
 
886 Ross's SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 thirty months' provisions on board, and eighteen chaldrons of 
 coke and coals. The small quantity of the latter made it evi- 
 dent that the engine could not be much longer used, even if it 
 could be fitted together again after having been taken to 
 pieces. On the I4th of October there was a heavy fall of 
 snow, which interrupted the crew in their operations. 
 
 By this time the berth for the ship's company was complet- 
 ed ; but when compared with the accommodations provided 
 for the Hecla in her voyage, they were of a very inferior cha- 
 racter. The heaviest parts of the engine were conveyed on 
 shore, but in attempting to get the boilers up the hatchway, 
 they were found too large to pass. To suffer them to remain on 
 board would be occupying a space which could not be spared, 
 and as no alternative remained they were cut into halves. 
 During intervals of cessation from labour, the crew occupied 
 themselves in settmg traps to catch the different animals, the 
 skins of which served them for clothing. 
 
 The time of the crew was now occupied in making the 
 ship as comfortable as possible. The steward's room was re- 
 moved and a communication formed from the cabin to the 
 ship's company's berth, whereby any of the seamen might 
 converse with the officers without going upon deck. The 
 housing and banking up the ship with snow, continued to oc- 
 cupy the time of the seamen, but the wind blowing a heavy 
 gale with storms of snow, they were often interrupted in their 
 labour from the severity of the season, till at length their ope- 
 rations for securing the ship in Felix harbour ceased. 
 
 Strong gales came on in November, and the crew took that 
 exercise on deck which was needful to preserve their health. 
 From the heat which was kept up between decks the snow pe- 
 netrated the boards, and to prevent this a layer of gravel was 
 placed between the snow and the upper deck. 
 
 Notwithstanding the rigour of the season, the officers went 
 out with guns in search of game and killed several grouse, some 
 ptarmigans, a kittiwake gull, and several other birds. 
 
 On the 12th of November an accident occurred by the 
 
TO THE NOIITHT POLE. 887 
 
 breaking of the ice in a manner quite unexpected, which had 
 like to have been of serious consequence. A number of arti- 
 cles which were intended to be taken on shore, were hoisted 
 out of the ship and laid upon the ice, which it was presumed 
 was sufficiently able to bear the weight of the articles laid upon 
 it. A gale had been blowing from the west, but no one enter- 
 tained an idea that it would affect the capability of the ice to 
 sustain what had been placed on it ; but presently the ice 
 gave a sudden shock, and the water came pouring through, 
 overwhehning the various articles which were to be conveyed 
 on shore. Great anxiety and concern filled every breast lest 
 the articles should be lost, or become frozen into the ice. An 
 accident like this had never occurred during any of the pre- 
 ceding voyages ; but on this occasion they fortunately recover- 
 ed almost the whole of the articles from their perilous situa- 
 tion and conveyed them safe to land. 
 
 On the following day the sun took his final departure for 
 the season, and no more appeared above the horizon. All now 
 appeared bleak and dreary, and the only living creatures to be 
 seen were the crew and their dogs. It is almost incredible at 
 what a distance two persons might now hold converse with each 
 other ; in a common tone of voice it could be heard at a dis- 
 tance of more than a mile. A sea unicorn was seen at a short 
 distance, and three of the crew contrived to approach it within 
 gun-shot, and firing altogether killed it. This was the first of 
 the kind they had seen, and on conveying it on board they mea- 
 sured it and found it to be twenty-two feet long and twelve 
 feet round. The tusk was entire. This creature swims with 
 great swiftness, but like other cestaceous animals cannot con- 
 tinue long under water. It is a formidable enemy to the 
 whale, and the tusk is highly prized. The throne of the 
 king of Denmark is surrounded with rows of these horns; 
 and six hundred thousand dollars were given by a German 
 prince for a single horn. 
 
 On the 30th of November the officers went on a shooting 
 excursion, but were not very successful, as they only killed 
 one bird. The crew had been some time employed in form- 
 
888 R08s's SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 ing a wall of snow on the south side of the ship, so that flie 
 interval between the wall and the ship, was occupied by the 
 crew in taking bodily exercise. 
 
 An observatory, which had been for some time erecting on 
 an adjoining hill, was completed on the 9th of December. 
 The men cut out large square slabs of snow, which they 
 worked off in a very neat manner, and when placed in the 
 order necessaryj it had all the appearance of a handsome 
 piece of masonry. At this place Captain Ross and Com- 
 mander James Ross usually passed the morning when the 
 weather would permit. 
 
 I'he year was now drawing to a close ; Christmas day was 
 at hand, and it was resolved to spend it after the custom of 
 their friends at home, and that roast beef and plumb pudding 
 should adorn their festive board. With a view also that game 
 should form one of the appendages, the officers went out on a 
 shooting expedition on the 24th ; they only saw however two 
 hares, and missed killing either of them. 
 
 Nearly five years had now elapsed, since the stores of the 
 Fury were placed on the beach, and no doubt those who 
 placed them there little expected that they would become the 
 source of a Christmas festival, at a period so distant ; but so 
 it was, and roast beef and plum pudding were prominent 
 dishes on the present occasion ; a pie made of the preserved 
 meats also graced the festive board, and to all this was added 
 three half-pints of rum to each mess. 
 
 On the 27th, it being Sunday, divine service was perform- 
 ed ; and in the course of the day, a school having been esta- 
 blished, the several pupils were examined as to their profici- 
 ency in the acquirements of reading correctly. 
 
 The new year commenced with weather extremely mild 
 for the season, and an extra allowance of grog and of pre- 
 served meats were issued out to the crew, who passed the day 
 in a cheerful manner, drinking the healths of their distant 
 friends, and success to their own efforts in search of a north- 
 west passage. 
 
 A brass gun which belonged to the Fury was conveyed to 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 889 
 
 the top of an adjoining hill, for the purpose of trying the 
 velocity of sound ; and the firing off of their piece, led to 
 their becoming acquainted with a tribe of native residents, at 
 this time in the neighbourhood. On the 9th of January one 
 of the crew gave notice that he heard the sound of many 
 strange voices, and shortly after there appeared on the beach, 
 several Esquimaux, armed with bows and arrows ; but al- 
 though they were thus armed, they did not place themselves 
 in an hostile attitude, but on the contrary evinced a friendly 
 disposition. Commander James Ross and the surgeon Vi^ere 
 present on this occasion, and after some little parley, in order 
 to increase their confidence, the officers placed their guns on 
 the ice. In the midst of this party of Esquimaux, stood an 
 apparently infirm old man, extremely feeble, who was brought 
 forward now by his party. A good understanding was very 
 quickly established among them, and the whole party ad- 
 vanced towards the ship. 
 
 This party had built their huts about three miles from the 
 ship, and appeared to consist of about thirty persons. Some 
 of them were taken down into the cabin by Captain Ross, and 
 some were amused by listening to the fiddle. Cut off from 
 all intercourse with other nations, there appears a sociability 
 of character which forms a striking contrast to that of other 
 uncivilized people, and there is a spirit of contentment to be 
 found amongst them, perhaps not to be equalled in any other 
 class of mankind whatever. Seated in his snow-built, smoky 
 dwelling, he feels no inconvenience from the absence of fea- 
 ther beds, warm woollen blankets, or handsome carpets. He 
 seems to enjoy his food, which is most repulsive in its appear- 
 ance to the European, and blood, and raw and filthy portions 
 of fish «re devoured by him in quantities that astonish the 
 observer. Tliey use immensely long whips, which are made 
 of the hides of the animals they kill, and are neatly plaited ; 
 the thongs are of the thickness of the thumb, tapering off 
 gradually, and terminating with a single lash. In the even- 
 ing they returned to their huts, and Captain Ross, and Com- 
 
890 llOSS^S SIXOND VOYAGE 
 
 mandcr James lloss accompanied them for nearly two milea 
 and then parted from them on the most friendly terms. 
 
 On the following day the officers set out in search of the 
 habitations of these people ; they had not advanced far before 
 they met a party of them, who returned with the officers to 
 their huts, and manifested every kind of attention towards 
 them. Captain Koss made them several presents, and the 
 Kscpjimaux shewed their joy by jumping and shouting, and a 
 variety of gestures. This appeared to be the place where 
 they deposited their provisions for the winter supply. Rein- 
 deer and various other articles of food, had been stored up in 
 these places for several months past. Several of the Esqui- 
 maux returned with the officers to the ship, and two of them 
 were introduced into the cabin when the dinner was serv- 
 ed up, but no persuasions could prevail on them to become 
 partakers of any of the articles which were placed on the 
 table. 
 
 Two Esquimaux came to the ship on the 11th, one of 
 whom, named TuUooachiu, had but one leg, and was the son 
 of the old man who was of the party when they first dis- 
 covered the Esquimaux. This young man had undergone 
 the amputation of the other leg, which was accomplished in 
 the following manner. The upper part of the leg was bound 
 with thongs, and the flesh stripped from the lower part with 
 their knives. The bone was then inserted in a hole in the ice 
 and snapped asunder; thepartswerethenseared with some light- 
 ed moss, after which nothing further was done to it. He was 
 introduced into the cabin, and a leg was made for him by the 
 carpenter and placed in its proper position. On observing 
 this he burst out into exclamations of joy. This ceremony 
 being completed. Commander James Ross laid before them a 
 piece of paper, and desired that they would mark the situa- 
 tion of the land, which they endeavoured to do, and every 
 thing appeared favourable to the object of the expedition, 
 according to the lines Mhich these people drew, and that 
 the party had already seen the coast of America. The 
 Esquimaux stated that about forty miles to the south-west 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 891 
 
 there was a neck of land which divided two great seas from 
 each other. 
 
 On the 12th a party of Esquimaux came to the ship, and 
 being desired to draw a chart of the coast they differed 
 in no material degree, from that which had been drawn on a 
 former occasion. An accident occurred at this time to the 
 launch, by its getting completely under the ice, and it occu- 
 pied many hours before it could be liberated. 'J'he cold was 
 now very intense, being forty degrees below Zero. No com- 
 munication was had with the natives, and the crew were con- 
 fined to their usual operations on board. The armourer being 
 asthmatic, the weather very materially affected him. 
 
 On the 20th Commander James Ross went on an excursion 
 into the country and shot one grouse. On their way they visit- 
 ed the huts of the Esquimaux, but most of them were absent 
 on a seal excursion. 'I'he sun now appeared for the first time, 
 after an absence of fifty-two days. The spirits of the crew were 
 revived at this prospect of their being emancipated from their 
 long imprisonment in the ice, and they anticipated the time when 
 they should agam hoist their sails in prosecution of their pro- 
 jected voyage of discovery. The Esquimaux with a wooden leg 
 at this time brought one of his countrymen, far advanced in 
 years, whom he described as well acquainted with the adjoin- 
 ing coasts. On questioning this man strong suspicions were 
 raised that he was only deceiving them, in the expectation of 
 receiving presents, and from his conduct in attempting to 
 steal a telescope, which he was compelled to return, and his 
 subsequent conduct, he met with so little encouragement that 
 he quitted the ship in much anger ; and it was afterwards as- 
 certained that he knew nothing respecting the situation of the 
 land. 
 
 The Esquimaux does not appear to make any profession of 
 religion, gross darkness covers his mind. The glad tidings of 
 salvation by faith in the atonement of Jesus Christ does not 
 appear as yet to have reached the ears of these people. Con- 
 jurors or jugglers under the name of Angekoks are found 
 among them, who, when any are afflicted, utter incantations, 
 
89^ ROSS'i SfXOND VOYAGE 
 
 and practise deceptions which they themselves afterwards ex- 
 plain according as it suits their own views and interest. 
 'Jo promote success in fishing or hunting, they also have 
 recourse to these Angekoks, who, after practising a variety 
 of absurdities in the dark or in a way hidden from the people, 
 assure their hearers of a successful issue to their future efforts, 
 and thus obtain presents from the deluded natives. 
 
 'i1iis day died Mr. James Marshn, the armourer, who had 
 been long most seriously afflicted with asthma. He died with- 
 out a struggle. Previous to his death, Mr. Light, the stew- 
 ard, made his will, leaving the whole of his property to his 
 near relatives. With much exertion a grave was dug, and 
 his remains committed to the earth. 
 
 Four Esquimaux who had never been to the ship before, 
 made their appearance this day. They manifested the utmost 
 astonishment on being taken into the cabin, and their eyes 
 wandered from object to object with loud and extravagant 
 laughter and delight. One of them on seeing the reflection 
 of his own face in the looking glass, stepped behind it, ex- 
 pecting to find the person it reflected, but being disappointed 
 he shook his head and again advanced to obtain another sight 
 of the object he sought for. Some of these Esquimaux were 
 as tall as five feet nine inches, while others did not rise higher 
 than four feet nine inches. 
 
 On Sunday the 24th the armourer was committed to the 
 grave. At half-past seven o'clock the crew were summoned 
 to breakfast, after which a part of the burial service was read. 
 The corpse, attended by the whole crew, was then conveyed 
 to the grave ; his hammock was his shroud, and his pillow a 
 piece of granite. The remainder of the burial service was 
 then read, in the course of which the body -was deposited in 
 a grave only two feet and a half deep, which was afterwards 
 filled with gravel. The crew then returned to the ship, and 
 divine service was performed. In the after part of the day 
 a party of Esquimaux came to the ship, among whom was 
 Tullooachiu on his wooden leg ; and so expert and ready was 
 he in the use of it, that he outstripped his companions in 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 893 
 
 walking although the road was often slippery and rugged. 
 After disposing of some of their dresses for some trifling ar- 
 ticles the Esquimaux took their departure. At difl'erent 
 periods after these people visited the ship, particularly on the 
 31 St, when a considerable party came, and among others the 
 mother of TuUooachiu, the Esquimaux with the wooden leg: 
 her visit was occasioned by the particular desire she had to 
 see the individual who had rendered her son such essential 
 service, and the carpenter was no sooner pointed out to her 
 as that person than she threw her arms around him, and 
 began rubbing noses with him, as a testimony of the strong 
 feelings of gratitude she felt towards him. At the usual hour, 
 this being the sabbath day, the crew were summoned to pray- 
 ers, the female part of the natives being first dismissed, and 
 returning to their huts : After divine service the male part of 
 the visitors joined the sailors on the ice, playing with them at 
 foot-ball, leap- frog and other sports. Nothing can be con- 
 ceived more ludicrous than the efforts of the Esquimaux on 
 these occasions, dressed in their large and clumsy garments 
 which prevented their taking the necessary stride with their 
 legs, and the sailors by their tricks and manoeuvres causing 
 them to roll over and over in the snow. 
 
 On the 8th and 9th of February, a trial was made of the 
 velocity of sound : Commander James Ross went to the 
 Esquimaux village which was between three and four miles dis- 
 tant from the ship and a gun was fired : the time which in- 
 tervened between the sound of the report, and the appearance 
 of the flash was sixteen seconds, so that it appears the sound 
 travelled at the rate of about a mile in five seconds. 
 
 On the 10th of February, the cold was too severe to admit 
 of any of the crew leaving the ship ; some of them however 
 ventured as far as the Esquimaux huts on the following day, 
 who no sooner saw them approaching, than they hastened to 
 meet them, brushing the snow oft' their jackets and inviting 
 them into their huts. The disagreeable smells, however, aris- 
 ing from the putrid masses of blubber, the stench of the dogs 
 and other filth which they contained, rendered their abode in 
 
 P. V. 38. 5 Y 
 
894 boss's second voyage 
 
 them far from being agreeable. A dance afterwards took 
 place, in which the natives threw themselves into a variety of 
 attitudes accompanied with extraordinary gestures and dis- 
 tortions of countenance. 
 
 To those who are accustomed to the many means of comfort 
 to be found among the nations of Europe, and the more civilized 
 parts of the earth, the situation of the Esquimaux must appear 
 the least desirable of any which is to be met with : their snow- 
 built habitations are in many respects comfortless ; their food 
 coarse and disgusting, on which they feed in a most glutton- 
 ous and voracious manner; the long and dreary nights of 
 winter, and the severity of cold weather to which they are 
 subject, are altogether a combination of affiictmg circum- 
 stances which perhaps cannot be equalled upon the face of 
 the whole earth. It is said also that, like some of the Indian 
 nations, they forsake the aged and the helpless, leaving them 
 to perish by the wild beasts or other causes. Tlieir conduct 
 upon the whole manifests less forethought than njight have 
 been expected from the most careless of human beings. 
 Drawing a comparison with those who live under the Chris- 
 tian dispensation, what an occasion of gratitude to God must 
 every human being experience, who reflects on the multitude 
 of blessings which education, and the introduction of the word 
 of God presents to him ; and surely under such circum- 
 stances every benevolent mind will aid m promoting the dis- 
 persion of the Gospel, by the missionary efforts now so gene- 
 rally adopted for the purpose of benefiting the benighted 
 heathen, in all parts of the earth. 
 
 February passed away, without any thing particular occur- 
 ring, the crew and the natives holding occasional intercourse. 
 On the 2nd of March, a party of them on coming to the ship, 
 reported the death of the old man whom they saw on their 
 first meeting with the natives, the father of the man with the 
 wooden leg. This being the first death which had occurred 
 among the Esquimaux, since the ship's company had met 
 with them, Mr. M'Diarmid was desirous of obtaining his 
 corpse, but found some difficulty in discovering where they 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 895 
 
 had disposed of it. On the 5th, the whole tribe, amounting 
 to about seventy persons, quitted their present winter habita- 
 tions, and separating into parties directed their course to dif- 
 ferent summer stations which they occupied. Having obtain- 
 ed information, which they had reason to believe to be correct^ 
 of the hut in which the deceased Esquimaux was to be found, 
 a party was sent to the spot : on entering the hut it was 
 found with the chest cut open as far down as the navel, and 
 so thick was the layer of fat that with the skin it measured 
 three-quarters of an inch : his boots, which were made of seal 
 skin, and in good condition, were cut off* by the carpen- 
 ter and appropriated to his own use, and Mr. M*Diarmid 
 took possession of the head. 
 
 Some of the Esquimaux on their removal established them- 
 selves at a place called Yakkee Hill, no very great distance 
 from their former residence. On the 7th, being Sunday, a 
 part of the crew visited them, and having to pass the former 
 place of their abode, they looked into the hut where the 
 deceased Esquimaux had been deposited. It was found how- 
 ever to have been removed, and, on arriving at the place of 
 the natives, present abode, it was manifest from their signifi- 
 cant actions that they were acquainted with the operation 
 which had taken place upon the body of the old man, al- 
 though they could not be prevailed on to satisfy the crew, to 
 what place the body had been removed. 
 
 On the 9th of Marcl\, Commander James Ross, accompanied 
 by one man in a sledge, drawn by six dogs, set out on an ex- 
 pedition to some high land, from which it was expected a 
 view might be obtained of the surrounding country, and the 
 extent of the islands among which it was now evident they 
 were embayed. Several deer were seen, although they were 
 disappointed of killing any. The observations made by Com- 
 mander James Ross on this expedition did not afford any satis- 
 factory evidence to lead to an opinion of the ultimate success to 
 the grand object in which they were in pursuit, and subsequent 
 enquiries added strength to these opinions. It was the opmion 
 of Captain Parry, that could he succeed in forcing his way 
 
896 Ross's SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 through the Strait of the Hecla and Fury, a clear passage 
 would be then open to him to the westward. The observa- 
 tions of Commander James Ross however, tended to a differ- 
 ent result, for the winter harbour of the Victory in 1830 was 
 only four degrees to the westward of the strait of the Hecla, 
 and Fury ; but the supposed sea of Captain Parry was not to 
 be met with, indeed it appears that the strait was only an 
 inlet or bay between Melville Peninsula and Cockburn 
 Island. In taking a view of their present situation Com- 
 mander James Ross stated therefore as his opinion, that these 
 circumstances lead to a different result, from those of Captain 
 Ross. In fact, the evidence before the committee of the 
 House of Commons distinctly shows that a difference of 
 opinion existed between Captain Ross and Commander Ross 
 on some very essential points. The following is one of the 
 many proofs that can be adduced. 
 
 The 170th question to Captain Ross is, " Do you conceive 
 you have ascertained the fact, that there is no practical com- 
 munication between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans? 
 
 " Positively to the southward of the seventy-fourth degree. 
 
 " You do not mean to express an opinion decidedly that it is 
 impossible there should be a communication discovered further 
 north ? 
 
 " Certainly not. 
 
 " You still think it is possible there may be a practical 
 communication ? 
 
 ** I think it possible, but not very probable." 
 
 On this subject Commander Ross is asked, " You do not 
 think the voyage has furnished any conclusion against the 
 existence of a north-west passage ? 
 
 ** No, it has made it still more certain than it was before, 
 that a north west passage must exist. 
 
 '^ Upon what observations, made in the last voyage, do you 
 ground that opinion ? 
 
 " From the additional portion of theouthneof the continent 
 of America explored upon this occasion on the northern coast 
 of America, and the western coast of Boothia. 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 897 
 
 '* Do you believe that it would be practicable to go through 
 that North Western Passage ? 
 
 " There is no question, that it would be much more easy, 
 now that wc are acquainted with the nature of the formation 
 of the continent of America." 
 
 The following difference of opinion is, however, still more 
 striking, and the answer of Commander Ross is well deserving 
 of attention : 
 
 Captain Ross is asked *' Did you observe the difference in 
 the altitude of the two seas, east and west of Boothia Felix ? 
 
 *« Yes. 
 
 ** Do you draw any conclusion from that difference of alti- 
 tude which bears on the subject of the North West Passage ? 
 
 *' I consider it to be negative. 
 
 *' You consider it a presumption ? 
 
 ** Yes, a presumption that there is no such passage, but 
 not a proof. 
 
 ** What was the difference ? 
 
 " The difference is thirteen feet. 
 
 " Upon the supposition that the land is continuous north- 
 ward, from the seventy-fourth degree to the pole, should you 
 expect to find that difference of altitude in the seas ? 
 
 " 1 should certainly, from the rotative motion of the earth." 
 
 On this subject Commander Ross is asked, " Are you 
 aware of the fact, that the two seas, right and left of the isth- 
 mus which unites Boothia with the continent of America, are 
 of different altitude ? 
 
 "No, I am not, nor had we the means of ascertaining the 
 fact with accuracy. It would take at least two or three months 
 to ascertain it with the accuracy such an observation would 
 require. 
 
 ** You have no reason to suppose such a thing ? 
 
 " None whatever ; no, I never heard of it till this moment. 
 
 " Has Captain Ross never told you that he had ascertained 
 that to be the fact ^ 
 
 " Captain Ross may have made observations which have 
 satisfied his own mind, but 1 doubt whether he can have made 
 
898 ROSS'S SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 observations that would satisfy the minds of those, who may 
 investigate the matter." 
 
 The same day that Commander Ross took the excursion, 
 which has been already described, the Purser and the Surgeon 
 set out on an expedition to the huts of the Esquimaux, which 
 were situate to the south-east. On their way thither, they 
 killed a bird, called the white-winged scraber, but the com- 
 mon name of which is the black guilemot. The body w as 
 entirely black, with the exception of a white spot on the 
 wing, which is a distinguishing mark of the bird in all its ages. 
 The bill is black, and the legs and feet are crimson. It 
 generally lays two eggs, about the size of a pullet's, of a dirty 
 white with black spots. It makes its nest in the holes, which 
 are found in the fragments of the rocks on the shore. The 
 measurement of the bird is generally about twelve inches 
 in length, and from nineteen to twenty in breadth. The 
 plumage of the young birds is varied black and white, but the 
 legs and feet are dusky, instead of the crimson colour 
 which distinguishes the older birds. The bird is some- 
 times killed in the Shetland Islands, but its chief habitation 
 may be considered to be Baffin's Bay, and the surrounding 
 inlets. 
 
 Commander Ross made some observations respecting the 
 geology of the country, which do not agree with those which 
 were made by Mr. Thorns and Mr. M*Diarmid, although the 
 direction in which they respectively bent their course, was 
 not at so great a distance from each other, as to give rise to 
 the conjecture that any great difference could be found in 
 the formation of the rocks or the inclination of the strata. 
 According to Commander Ross the general outline of the inte- 
 rior and a considerable portion of the north and east coast, be-, 
 spoke the existence of primary rocks, the hills rising to an aver- 
 age height of 700 feet, and presenting acute summits, declin- 
 ing by sharp prolonged ridges. A table land would scarcely 
 be expected, in a country where the summits of the hills are, 
 for the greater part of the year, exposed to the most intense 
 frost, and where, in consequence, they must assume that acute 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 899 
 
 anJ jagged form which generally characterizes the Iiills, of 
 the Arctic Regions. The granite possesses the character 
 of that substance, as it is found forming mountain masses, and 
 therefore it is not improbable that this rock forms a portion 
 at least of the country. 
 
 The observations of Mr. Thorns and Mr. M'Diarmid went 
 to show that the cliffs appeared, wherever they were exposed, 
 to present an appearance of stratification. The specimen 
 they produced seemed almost entirely limited to gneiss, a cir- 
 cumstance to be expected from the stratified appearance 
 already mentioned. On the whole the researches of the re- 
 spective officers did not throw any great light on the geolo- 
 gical nature of the country, and the specimens do not differ 
 much, excepting in the colour, from the granite found in the 
 vicinity of Aberdeen, the polar granite being of an orange 
 colour, that of Scotland of a dusky white. 
 
 Mr. Thoms and Mr. M*Diarmid having extended their 
 excursion too far, were benighted on their way home, and it 
 was not without some difficulty that they reached the vessel ; 
 nor would this have been so easily accomplished had not some 
 blue lights been fired off at intervals, and guns fired every 
 five minutes from the ship, as a guide to the travellers to 
 direct them on their way. They were two hours and fifty 
 minutes rambling they knew not whither, and but for the 
 report of the guns, which in that climate is heard at a great 
 distance, it is not improbable but that they would have had 
 to pass the night under the lee of a mound of ice, with a bear 
 as their companion, and amidst the howling of wolves and 
 other beasts. 
 
 The following anecdote is related as descriptive of the saga- 
 city of the bear ; the Captain of a whaler being desirous of 
 procuring a bear without injuring the skin, laid the noose of 
 a rope in the snow, with a piece of blubber over it ; the smell 
 soon enticed a bear to the spot and he seized it in his mouth ; 
 the rope was pulled, and his foot was entangled in the noose, 
 but he instantly pushed the noose off with his other paw and 
 escaped ; having eaten the piece, he i eturned in search of 
 
900 Ross's SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 more food, and in the interim another piece of blubber had 
 been placed on the same spot, covering another noose, but he 
 pushed the rope aside and again walked off with the blubber ; 
 a third time the trap was laid and the noose so entirely cover- 
 ed with snow that nothing could be seen, and the blubber 
 was placed in a hole made in the centre ; the bear a third 
 time returned in search of his food, and after smelling about 
 the place, he turned the rope aside and walked off with his 
 prey. 
 
 On another occasion it was observed that three bears were 
 advancing towards the ship, invited as was supposed by the 
 blubber of a walrus which the men had set on fire, and which 
 was burning on the ice. On coming to the spot they ran 
 eagerly to the fire, and drew out what remained unconsumed. 
 The crew also threw towards them great pieces of the flesh, 
 which the largest of the bears seized and threw towards the 
 others, which appeared to be two of her cubs, reserving the 
 smallest part for herself. At this time the crew fired and 
 shot both of the cubs dead, wounding also the dam, but not 
 mortally. On perceiving that her cubs were dead, the poor 
 beast manifested the most anxious concern for them ; though 
 sorely wounded and but just able to crawl to the place where 
 they lay, she carried to them a lump of the flesh, tore it in 
 pieces, then laid her paws first on one, and afterwards on the 
 other, endeavouring to raise them up, uttering at the same 
 time the most piteous mournings. She then went off to a 
 short distance, and looked back on her cubs, endeavouring 
 by her cries to induce them to follow her ; but this not 
 availing, she returned to them, and with every appearance of 
 fondness and distress walked round them, licked their wounds, 
 and pawed them with her feet ; at last the crew fired a volley 
 at her, and she fell dead between her cubs while licking their 
 wounds. 
 
 An anecdote is related of one of the whalers, when a bear 
 approached alongside the ship, drawn as was supposed by the 
 off'al which was thrown overboard by the cook. The people 
 being at dinner, the creature was observed by only one of the 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 901 
 
 crew, who, perceiving the bear so near, jumped upon the ice 
 armed only with a handspike, and began to attack him ; the 
 bear however disarmed him and seizing him by the back car- 
 ried him off before his comrades couW afford him any assis- 
 tance, and was seen no more. 
 
 Another instance somewhat of the same kind took place on 
 board a whaling ship, which sailed from Hull. The ship 
 was moored to a piece of ice on which a bear was observed 
 prowling about for prey at a considerable distance. One of 
 the crew, under a spirit of bravado, set out to pursue and 
 attack it. Armed with a whale lance he resolutely set out to 
 the attack, advancing within a few yards of the bear, who 
 stood still and faced him. His courage rather abated on 
 observing the threatening aspect of the bear, who stood still 
 and looked stedfastly at him. The sailor then shouted, ad- 
 vanced his lance, and made motions of attack, but without 
 producing that effect upon the bear which he hoped for, as 
 the animal stood his ground and manifested no disposition of 
 fear or alarm ; after a short time however the bear began to, 
 advance, and the poor tar was so overcome with fear that he 
 turned and fled : this occasioned the bear to follow him, and 
 as he gained on the sailor, who found the lance an hindrance 
 to his flight, the latter threw the lance away, a circumstance 
 which fortunately checked the bear in his pursuit as he stop- 
 ped to smell it, and examine it with his paws. This gave 
 the sailor an opportunity of advancing, but after a short space 
 the bear again advanced to the pursuit, and the sailor threw 
 one of his gloves at him, which again for a few moments 
 arrested his attention. By throwing away his other glove, 
 and afterwards his hat, which the bear tore into shreds, he 
 continued to arrest his attention until he succeeded in reach- 
 ing his shipmates, who were advancing to his assistance, and 
 who opened a passage for the runaway to escape behind them, 
 when they closed to meet the attack of the bear, who now 
 himself made a stand at the appearance of so many in hostile 
 array against him, and suddenly turning round escaped in 
 safety from all their assaults. 
 
 P.V.S8 5Z 
 
902 ROSS S SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 It was a p an on the part of Captain Ross to attempt to 
 obtain a youth of the Esquimaux nation, who might be will- 
 ing to be brought up according to the European manners, 
 and to leave a country of comparative misery and desolation, 
 for one of comfort, luxury, and splendour. In his first expe- 
 dition in search of a north-west passage, he reaped considerable 
 benefit from John Sacheuse, a young Esquimaux, who, in- 
 stigated by an ardent desire to visit the country of the Euro- 
 peans, had concealed himself on board the Thomas and Anne, 
 Captain Newton, of Leith ; and on his arrival in Scotland, 
 through the disinterested kindness of Mr. Nasmyth, the emi- 
 nent artist of Edinburgh, he was put under proper masters 
 for teaching him the English language, and other branches 
 of useful knowledge. When it was understood that an ex- 
 pedition to the arctic regions was about to sail under Captain 
 Ross, it was communicated to the admiralty that the services 
 of Sacheuse might be advantageously employed on the occa- 
 sion, and by instructions sent to Mr. Nasmyth by the admi- 
 ralty, he was invited on very liberal terms to accompany the 
 expedition. Sacheuse appeared very indifferent about the 
 compensation, but readily agreed to go, only carefully stipu- 
 lating that he was not to be left in his own country. His 
 great unwillingness to return to his native land, after having 
 tasted the comforts and blessings of civilized life, seems more 
 easily accounted for, than his original willingness to leave it. 
 He sailed with Captain Ross on his first expedition, and on 
 his return to England he was taken under the special protec- 
 tion of the admiralty, who agreed to defray the expences of his 
 education, in order that he might in every way be well fitted to 
 act as an interpreter on the second expedition, which was then 
 about to be undertaken under the command of Captain 
 Parry ; but his death put an end to all these plans. With 
 the remembrance of the great services which had been ren- 
 dered by Sacheuse in the first expedition. Captain Ross wish- 
 ed to obtain a substitute, whom he could convey to Eng- 
 land, and by imparting to him the benefits of education, 
 qualify him to become an interpreter to any future expedition. 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 903 
 
 that might be projected. There is however a great difference 
 between a person voluntarily expatriating himself, as was the 
 case with Sacheuse, and a person who is to be induced by 
 promises and bribes to leave his country, and to enter upon 
 scenes unknown, without any innate desire for the acquisition 
 of knowledge, or natural talent, to overcome the obstacles with 
 which that acquisition is always accompanied. Some enquiries 
 had been set on foot by Captain Ross amongst the Esquimaux, 
 whether there was a youth amongst them, who felt no objec- 
 tion to be received on board the ship as one of its inmates, 
 and to accompany them to ]£urope, with the understanding 
 that if his residence there should prove disagreeable to him, 
 the earliest opportunity should be embraced of returning him 
 to his native country. In this case liovvever, there were 
 many impressions and prejudices to overcome, which threaten- 
 ed to defeat the plan altogether. To exchange his i a ural 
 liberty, rude and savage as it was, for a state of compaii!- 
 tive bondage and servitude, appeared in the eyes of the 
 native youths, an exchange so decidedly against them, that 
 their snow-built hut, and their meal of blubber, seemed 
 to them of higher estimation than all the splendid benefits, 
 which the change held out to them. The love of the father- 
 land with its rude inclement skies, its perpetual snows, its 
 darkness and its desolation, was paramount in their breasts, and 
 although they were told that they were to be carried to a land, 
 where suns perpetual shone, and all the luxuries of life awaited 
 them, yet they could not be brought to leave the spot, where in 
 their infancy they had first learned to twang the bow, and 
 quaffed as a delicious beverage the life-blood of the seal. 
 
 It was however on the 16th of March, that the plans of Cap- 
 tain Ross, relative to the adoption of an Esquimauxyouth, were 
 likely to be carried into execution, for a youth presented him- 
 self before him, belonging to the tribe, who had fixed the'r 
 station towards the north-east, and who gave Captain Ross 
 to understand that he appeared as a candidate to be received 
 as one of the inmates of the Victory. Poowutyook, wps 
 the name of the youth. On the day preceding his intra- 
 
904 EOSS^S SECOND VOYAGE' 
 
 duction to his new situation, a fine hare had been dressed 
 for the table of the eabin, a moiety of which was reserved to 
 be jugged for Captain Ross. Unfortunately the head of the 
 hare projecting over the side of the dish, caught the roving 
 eye of Poowutyook, and the steward being called away to 
 attend upon the gentlemen in the cabin, he obtained possession 
 of the dainty subject and stowed it away in his trowsers ; the 
 remains of a grouse shared the same fate, and he continued 
 to fill his magazine as long as an article remained that 
 was within his reach, or the capacity of his trowsers would 
 hold. He then sought for a proper place in which to fix 
 himself while he entered into the full enjoyment of all his 
 provender, and observing a flour tub in one corner he fixed 
 himself in it, while he quietly feasted on the rich viands of 
 which he had taken possession and to the great disappoint- 
 ment of the gentlemen whose table was to have been graced 
 by them. 
 
 The morning of the 18th being remarkably fine. Com- 
 mander Ross accompanied by Poowutyook, one man, seven 
 dogs and the sledge, set out on an excursion into the country 
 to the southward. As the open season was advancing, no 
 opportunity was to be lost of examining the surrounding 
 country, and of ascertaining the precise point to which 
 the future attempts of the navigators were to be direct- 
 ed. Flattering as their prospects might have been on 
 reaching Felix Harbour, their efforts had certainly not been 
 attended with a proportionate degree of success. They had 
 however the satisfaction and the consciousness, particularly 
 on the part of Commander Ross, on whom the most arduous 
 duties of the expedition devolved^ of having left no means 
 within their reach untried, that could in any way promote 
 their object* Notwithstanding however the repeated excur- 
 sions of Commander Ross in almost every direction, nothing 
 yet had transpired to give hopes that they were in the direct 
 route for the discovery of the long-sought-for passage. The 
 excursion which he now took added little to his stock of infor- 
 mation, or of important knowledge of the geographical posi- 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 905 
 
 tion of the country. According to the opinion which Com- 
 mander Ross now formed, they appeared to be in the midst 
 of a chain of lakes common to that part of America, but 
 whether they were in fact a part of the polar sea, was a ques- 
 tion he found it impossible to solve. 
 
 Leaving the sledge and the dogs to the care of the man. 
 Commander Ross accompanied by Poowutyook ascended an 
 eminence, from which the former expected that he should 
 obtain an uninterrupted view of the country. At the foot of 
 the eminence Commander Ross shot a hare, on which Poo- 
 wutyook expressed his surprise by the most extraordinary 
 gestures. It was the first time that he had ever witnessed the 
 use of fire-arms, and on taking up the hare, he examined it 
 in every part to discover the cause of its death, but not succeed- 
 ing, he laid it down again, as if distrustful of the effect, which 
 he had witnessed. Commander Ross with the view of trying 
 the firmness of the dispositions of Poowutyook, put a small 
 quantity of powder into the gun, and placing it in his left 
 hand, directed the right to the trigger ; when, on the gun 
 going off*, what with the noise, the flash, the recoil and the 
 smoke, an actual degree of terror seized the savage, and with- 
 out any further hesitation, hh set off^ at the fullest speed, 
 which his rude and cumbersome habiliments would permit 
 him. In vain Commander Ross called after him, Poowut- 
 yook, bent his course in the direction of the ship, and was 
 soon out of sight. The Esquimaux directs his course according 
 to the bearing of some remarkable headlands, for in regard to 
 any sideral observations they appear to be as ignorant as the 
 animals which they drive. They certainly have a name for 
 the four cardinal points of the compass, but they know not in 
 what use to employ them, or how to make them subservient to 
 any of the purposes of directing them in their course from 
 one station to another, and particularly to those distant quar- 
 ters, which they frequent in the summer months for the pur- 
 pose of carrying on their fisheries. 
 
 Commander Ross on this excursion penetrated above thirty 
 miles into the interior, but every thing tended to convince 
 
906 noss^^s second voyage 
 
 him that he was not on a continent, for the intersections of 
 land and water, at that time in a compact body of ice. were 
 so frequent, that he concluded it was an archipejago of small 
 islands, but that they could not form a part of the polar sea. 
 The short duration of Hght was however a great obstacle'to 
 the prosecution of his researches, and he therefore considered 
 it more prudent to return to the ship, with the determination 
 of renewing themwhen the days were longer. 
 
 But on the arrival of Commander Ross at the ship, he was 
 mortified to find that Poowutyook had never made his appear- 
 ance, but it was ascertained on the following morning that he 
 had returned to his snow-built hut and his native habits, 
 bidding adieu for ever to the advantages of civilization. I'he 
 interior of an Esquimaux hut, when the lamps are lighted, and 
 it is full of people and dogs, presents a spectacle, which is not to 
 be equalled in any other part of the globe. It may be looked 
 upon as one of the lowest stages of human society, just one de- 
 gree removed from animal existence, and in which the gratifica- 
 tion of the sensual appetites appears to be the sole object of their 
 life. Immersed in the profoundest ignorance, they have not a 
 single pursuit, which has not an immediate reference to their ani- 
 mal wants, which, on being satiated, the human brute throws 
 himself down by the side of his dogs, and, bloated with the 
 effects of his gluttony, passes away the dreary hours of his 
 life in sleep and inanity. 
 
 On the 20th Mr. Thoms and Mr. M*Diarmid set out on 
 an excursion over the ice to some islands which lay to the 
 eastward. They continued out the whole of the day, and the 
 crew became alarmed at the length of their absence. Guns were 
 fired as signals, and blue lights were burned, and after much 
 anxious solicitude, at ten o'clock they had the satisfaction to 
 hail their arrival. They had lost their way on their return, 
 and would have wandered about the whole night exposed to 
 the inclemency of the weather, but for the signal guns and 
 blue lights. On the following day, being Sunday, the crew 
 attended divine service, after which they took a walk towards 
 the deserted abodes of the natives, and a dog belonging to 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 907 
 
 Captain Ross, and which had formerly been the favourite 
 dog of the deceased Esquimaux accompanied them. On their 
 way to the huts tliey were met by a party of the natives, 
 among whom was the son of the deceased, and on seeing the 
 dog he instantly recognised it, and caressed it with the great- 
 est fondness, shedding tears on the occasion. The dog also 
 by his actions manifested his joy, shewing that he had not 
 forgotten his former acquaintance. On entering the hut where 
 his former master expired, he smelt and looked about, as con- 
 scious of having a knowledge of the place. The son of the 
 deceased, whose name was Ilhctu, having a strong desire to 
 have the dog himself, took advantage on leaving the huts of 
 enticing the dog to follow him, and being more accustomed to 
 move in the heavy and cumbersome dresses which the sailors 
 as well as the natives wore, he started off with tlie dog, and 
 although some of the sailors attempted to pursue him, they 
 soon found it necessary to relinquish the attempt and the dog 
 was lost. According to the usual custom of these natives 
 however, whenever they stole any article, on the following 
 day two w^omen came to the ship, bringing the dog with them, 
 stating that it was not to be charged on the son of lUictu, but 
 to the attachment of the dog to his former master. For this- 
 their honesty as they accounted it, they expected to receive a 
 reward ; but on further examination it appeared that the swi- 
 vel to the collar was missing, and they were then informed 
 that until this was restored no reward would be given. This 
 was a great disappointment to the women, as they fully calcu- 
 lated upon receiving a present, and in their eyes it was a de- 
 parture from the principle of fair dealing to withhold the re- 
 ward they so justly merited. As nothing could alter this de- 
 termination, the women were obliged to retire in great 
 disappointment. 
 
 On the morning of the 23rd. the two women who had brought 
 the dog back again, made their appearance, and brought the 
 swivel which had been missing ; but it was some time before 
 a proper arrangement could be made as to the remuneration 
 which they expected to receive for the trouble they had taken. 
 
908 Ross's SECOND VOYAGE) 
 
 One of the females was the wife of the man who enticed the 
 dog to follow him, and at length her desires were gratified by 
 a present of hooks and needles, and the other female was suf- 
 ficiently gratified on being put into possession of a string of 
 glass beads. 
 
 The state of the weather becoming less severe, and no fear 
 existing now that any injury would be sustained by the hea- 
 vy drifts of snow, the embankment which had been raised 
 was removed, and Commander Ross continued to pursue his 
 scientific observations. On the 29th the natives removed from 
 their usual residence, and came in numbers from different 
 quarters, and built their huts on the ice, ck)se to the ship. 
 The circumstance at first excited some little apprehensions 
 that predatory attempts were intended to be made on the 
 ship's stores, and it was thought necessary to increase the 
 number on watch ; but after some further enquiry it was un- 
 derstood that they were now quitting their winter residence 
 and moving in smaller parties, some to one part and some 
 to another ; some were proceeding to the place for salmon 
 fishing, others directed their course inland to procure a sup- 
 ply of rein-deer or musk oxen; and thus, dispersing into 
 various routs, they continue till about the month of Septem- 
 ber, when they all meet again to pass the dreary months of 
 winter. 
 
 After divine service on Sunday the fourth of April, several 
 Esquimaux from the north visited the ship ; two of these 
 were going to a store to the westward at which they had left 
 their sledges on the setting in of the winter. On being infor- 
 med of their purpose. Commander James Ross resolved to 
 accompany them, in the sanguine hope that he would be able 
 to arrive at a satisfactory conclusion as to whether there was 
 an open sea in that direction. Having come to this determina- 
 tion the two natives were invited to sleep on board the ship, 
 and Commander James Ross, with James Blanky, the mate, 
 made preparations to accompany them in the morning. The 
 steward was directed to prepare a proper and substantial sup- 
 per for the Esquimaux, and accordingly partof a seal, weighing 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 909 
 
 about ten pounds was baked in the oven and placed be- 
 fore them. They quick ly devoured the whole of this, leaving 
 not a particle upon their wooden platters, but licked these with 
 their tongues so long as a savoury relish could be extracted 
 from them. After this the steward shewed them to the place 
 where they were to sleep, adopting on the occasion every pre- 
 cautionary measure to keep in security every article which, 
 might by possibility tempt them to appropriate such things to 
 their own use, by placing tliem in their capacious trowsers. 
 
 Having thus disposed of his guests, tlic steward provided 
 the various necessaries for Commander James Ross, and the 
 mate, to take with them on their journey ; in respect to the 
 natives, little solidtude was necessary, as plenty of seals might 
 be expected on their journey ; and dressed or raw, these would 
 be an all-sufficient supply for their subsistence. Fourteen 
 dogs were also to be provided to draw the two sledges, but 
 the same food of seals would serve for the natives and the dogs, 
 and either dressed or undressed, and whether out of the same 
 trougli or pan was a matter of but little importance, as they 
 and their dogs were often accustomed to feed together. 
 
 The sledges of the Laplanders are more comfortable than 
 those of the Esquimaux : the former being covered in at the 
 top, having an opening only sufficient to admit the body in a 
 sitting posture, and thus a large part of the body is preserv- 
 ed from the influence of the outward cold in a considerable 
 degree : on the contrary, the Esquimaux sJcdge is entirely 
 open, and the person occupying it is very liable to be thrown 
 out if the road be rugged, and he may be dragged some dis- 
 tance before he can bring the dogs to stop. The rate of tra- 
 velling with the Esquimaux dogs was about six miles an hour, 
 although they may be urged on to the rate of eight miles an 
 hour. On the following morning Commander Ross and 
 the mate Blanky set out accompanied by the twd natives. 
 
 The visits of the Esquimaux were about this time unac- 
 companied with any commodities for sale, and it began to ap- 
 pear that they were in a state of great privation, particularly 
 those m the neighbourhood of the ship ; for several days they 
 
 P. V. S9. G A 
 
910 ROaS'S SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 had not been able to catch a single seal, and under these cir- 
 cumstances they made application to the ship's company, and 
 implored the gift of some seal's flesh; Captain Ross ordered 
 a seal to be thawed and skinned, and directed the steward to 
 inform them that it should be given to them as soon as it was 
 baked. This they did not appear to understand, and were 
 making their way to the huts with dejected spirits, when they 
 were more clearly informed what was preparing for them, and 
 they returned and made a hearty meal. Having satisfied their 
 appetites thus far they expressed their thankfulness, and were 
 afterwards sent to their huts with a sufficient supply of food 
 for the following day. For several days after some of these 
 poor creatures were in constant application for food. The 
 weight of one of these seals was one hundred and eighty 
 pounds, and on this food they fed most ravenously, the chil- 
 dren as well as the grown up persons, so that they could 
 scarcely move. After this they returned to the huts, taking 
 with them what remained not eaten, and intimating that they 
 would renew their visit when they had occasion for further 
 supplies. 
 
 On the 6th there was a complete hurricane together with a 
 heavy fall of snow, which drifting in every direction, occasioned 
 some apprehensions for the safety of Commander James Ross 
 and the mate, who in all probability had no place of shelter 
 from its attack. As it had been settled on their departure that 
 a rocket should be let off every evening at ten o'clock, and 
 that two blue lights should be kept constantly burning at the 
 top of the jury main- mast, this was accordingly done ; but the 
 wind was often so violent that the blue lights were with dif- 
 ficulty continued, and were often obliged to be re-lighted ; 
 however, on these occasions, rockets were continually let off, so 
 that in case Commander Ross and his companion had arrived 
 in the neighbourhood of the ship, they could scarcely miss of 
 seeing them. 
 
 The Esquimaux were impressed with feelings of the utmost 
 astonishment on witnessing the flight of the rockets, and to 
 their uninformed minds it appeared that they were nothing 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 911 
 
 less than fiery spirits or Angekoks, sent by Captain Ross on 
 particular errands to the regions through which they travel- 
 led. Impressed with these ideas, they began to think that 
 Captain Ross had dominion over the seas, and that if he pleas- 
 ed, he could direct them to the spot where their efforts to 
 catch seals would be crowned with success ; on their coming 
 to the ship on the following morning, the Captain pointed to 
 a particular spot and directed them to make trial if they could 
 not catch a seal ; this by good fortune was the real fact, and 
 notwithstanding the weather was stormy, their preconceived 
 opinion of the knowledge the Captain had of invisible things, 
 was confirmed by the successful results which followed. From 
 this time they held in high estimation any direction or infor- 
 mation which the Captain offered unto them. At night guns 
 were fired and the blue lights exhibited as usual ; the wea- 
 ther was also extremely tempestuous, so much so, that it was 
 scarcely possible for the men to keep on deck ; no appearance 
 of Commander James Ross however was manifest until the 
 evening of the 10th, when one of the Esquimaux came to the 
 ship and reported that he was but a short distance behind, 
 and he soon made his appearar^ce accompanied by his com- 
 panions all in good health and safety. They brought with 
 them some salmon which had been caught and placed in a 
 state of safe preservation the preceding autumn, and covered 
 with snow ; and they brought also two sledges which Com- 
 mander Ross had purchased. Had it not been that at the 
 time when they were most distant from the ship they began to 
 be short of provisions, Commander Ross would have continued 
 his journey. He travelled on this occasion about seventy 
 miles in a S.S.W. direction, but without any prospect of dis- 
 covering a passage ; crossing several lakes, which the natives 
 informed him abounded with salmon, and from whence in sum- 
 mer they supplied their stores, covering them with snow to 
 preserve them for the following year. In the intercourse 
 which Commander Ross had with the natives on this occasion, 
 some of them stated that they were visited every year by some 
 white persons from the westward, who eame to traffic fbr s«al 
 
91^ Ross's SECOND VOTAG* 
 
 skins and walrus teeth ; but this information was not altog^'- 
 ther satisfactory to him as he could not conceive any way by 
 which they could approach ; if they were Russians, he con- 
 cluded that they must arrive by the way of Behring's Strait, 
 but he had no information to warrant hrm in concluding 
 this to be the fact ; and the distance, together with the diffi- 
 culties of transjorting large quantities of merchandise through 
 such a barren and unfavourable country, led him to discredit 
 the report; he resolved however, if the circumstances admit- 
 ted, on some future occasion, to make the information a mat- 
 ter of further research. 
 
 The names of the two natives who accompanied Commander 
 Ross, were Ooblooraiak and Alwak, and they were invited to 
 sleep on board on the evening of their arrival ; on retiring to 
 rest however, the latter felt no inclination to sleep and was de- 
 sirous of holding a conversation with his companion ; to this 
 the former was not at all disposed. Alwak however was de- 
 termined his companion should not sleep if he would not talk, 
 and therefore he oftentimes assailed him with a push from his 
 elbow ; until, at length, his companion became so enraged that 
 ^ bbnfiict took place between them: their mode of fighting 
 however was not after the English custom, but each seized 
 hold of the hair of his opponent's head, and tore it out by the 
 roots in no small quantities. Alwak was the weakest of the 
 two, atid the sailors after a while found it necessary to inter- 
 fete, and removing his opponent to another berth, peace and 
 quietness was restored. 
 
 The next day the two Esquimaux were permitted to return 
 to their huts and each of them had a file presented him as a 
 reward for accompanying Commander Ross and the mate. 
 Alwak was found to be a youth of a more intelligent charac- 
 ter than the other natives, and in the course of the journey. 
 Commander Ross became so pleased with him that on dismis- 
 sing him on this occasion, he invited him to accept of a per. 
 nianent berth in the ship, and eventually to accompany him 
 to England. Alwak listened with great attention to the offer, 
 and desired a few days to consider of it, and to consult his 
 
10 THE NORTH P^^LE. 91S 
 
 friends and companions. On his arrival among them and re- 
 lating the offer, a female between whom and himself a strong 
 attachment had been formed, expressed her objections to his 
 leaving her with such force, and his affections v\cre so strong 
 towards her, that he entirely declined accepting the offer. 
 
 On the 14!lh some of the Esquimaux came and fished in 
 the harbour where the Victory lay. It is wonderful with 
 what patience they remain squatted on the bank for an hour 
 together unmoved, waiting until his bait is taken; the tug of 
 the fish being the signal of his capture, and the Esquimaux 
 awaits the proper moment with the greatest calmness. On 
 the 17th Commander James Ross, accompanied by the mate, 
 set out to explore a bay to the northward, and to find if it 
 had any connection with the sea to the westward ; but the 
 result was very unsatisfactory, as no such discovery could be 
 made. On the following day, being Sunday, soon after di- 
 vine service had been concluded, an Esquimax brought the 
 door of a trap which had been stolen by some of the party, 
 expecting to receive a reward for his trouble, but the provin- 
 cial habit which the Europeans had imbibed, that an article 
 stolen, if at any time be found, was trill the property of him 
 from whom it was stolen, that they insisted on keeping it 
 without making any return ; on the contrary, the Esquimaux 
 conceived that the manner by which it h.qd been removed 
 formed no criterion by which to judge of his right to a reward ; 
 however as no arguments which he used could alter the 
 impression the circumstances made on the minds of those to 
 whom it originally belonged, and as he still stoutly urged his 
 claim, it was finally adjusted by the crew expelling him from 
 the ship, and his declared resolution not to be used in so 
 shameful a manner again. 
 
 On the the 19th a very great bustle was observed among 
 the Esquimaux huts, in the immediate vicinity of the ship, 
 and in a very few hours they were totally abandoned, and 
 they and their dogs, were seen directing their course to the 
 south-west, taking all their moveable property. Not one of 
 the party called to bid the ship's company adieu, or vouch- 
 
914 KOSS'S SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 safed them even a parting look. On their departure the hut» 
 were visited by the crew of the Victory, whose feelings were 
 sensibly excited on reflecting how human beings could live in 
 a state of such excessive wretchedness as their dwellings ap- 
 peared to be. The disagreeable effluvia which proceeded from 
 their huts was hardly bearable, and it is surprising that in so 
 unhealthy an atmosphere, there should be any of them pos- 
 sessing a tolerable degree of health. In a hut which they 
 entered, and which had been occupied by a whole family, the 
 bed occupied nearly half the space, and it was manifest that 
 father and mother and son and daughter, and all their chil- 
 dren had but one place for sleeping on, the bed was of snow, 
 and the tenement of snow ; and yet there did not appear 
 among them any anxious solicitude ; if their hunger could be 
 satisfied, then the day passed off with a measure of satisfac- 
 tion ; and they awaked, after their repose, only to eat and feed 
 upon their resources, which they were accustomed to do in 
 the most filthy and forbidding manner. 
 
 About this time another youth fell under the notice of 
 Commander Ross, as a person likely to be prevailed on to ac- 
 company him in his return to England, and as hkely to be 
 useful in the excursions he was so repeatedly making at this 
 time, in order to discover an open sea. The youth listened 
 to his overtures to be his companion, and closed with the 
 agreement on this additional condition, that he should have 
 plenty of food to eat whenever he desired it : on these terms 
 he engaged to accompany Commander Ross to a distant place 
 which was said to be frequented by a tribe of Esquimaux who had 
 a residence at a considerable distance to the westward, and one 
 of whose stations during the summer was on the shores of an 
 open sea, the extent of which had never yet been ascertained 
 by any of the tribe, and which sea it was reported never was 
 frozen over. Accordingly, on the 20th, Commander James 
 Ross, accompanied by the mate Blanky and the young Es- 
 quimaux, set out on an expedition to explore this portion of 
 the country, taking care to supply himself with an ample store 
 of provisions, in order that he might fulfil his engagements 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 915 
 
 with the Esquimaux. The party however met with impedi- 
 ments which they were not prepared to encounter ; their jour- 
 ney was so intersected with creeks and inlets, and the water 
 was such a depth upon the ice from the advance of the season, 
 that he found it absolutely impossible to proceed without the 
 assistance of a boat, and he therefore bent his course more to 
 the southward, pushing on his researches until the scarcity of 
 provisions rendered it necessary for him to return, and to re- 
 trace their steps to the ship, where they arrived on the 23rd 
 in safety. 
 
 All appearance of success in getting to the westward when 
 the ship became liberated began to vanish ; the passage of the 
 strait of the Hecla and Fury appeared to be mere conjecture, 
 and v^as in fact only a large inlet, bounded by land which 
 joins Melville Peninsula and Cockburn Island, and that Cap- 
 tain Parry erred in slating it to be the passage to an open 
 sea. This day was the anniversary of King George the 
 Fourth's birth-day, and was also the anniversary day of the 
 departure of the Victory from Woolwich. These two events 
 were therefore celebrated by dressing the ship out in her co- 
 lours, and by firing a salute of twenty-one guns, and also by 
 giving to each man a portion of rum. The Esquimaux whom 
 Commander Ross intended to take with him to England was 
 standing on the deck, and near to the guns which were fired 
 on this occasion, the report threw him into a panic ; he gave a 
 high jump, and, putting his hands to his ears, he ran about the 
 ship in a state of alarm, and on the second gun being fired he 
 fled in a state of terror, and betook himself to the cabin where 
 Captain Ross was sitting, and strove to hide himself under the 
 table. By degrees Commander Ross induced him to leave 
 the cabin, but no efforts could prevail on him to ap- 
 proach that part of the ship where the gun had been fired off. 
 To draw off his mind from the circumstance. Commander Ross 
 made him a present of a file, which was always considered by 
 them as a most valuable present. On receiving it he ex- 
 pressed an earnest desire to take it to his parents, but Com- 
 mander Rosa told him that he was on the point of setting out 
 
916 
 
 on another journey into the country, and that, if he would re- 
 main and accompany him, a farther remuneration should be 
 made to him. In this he appeared to acquiesce ; and after 
 this he went to the steward's room in order to feast his appe- 
 tite according to agreement, and fed like a voracious glutton 
 until he had filled his stomach to the full. After this he ap- 
 peared quiet and easy, as though nothing particular had oc- 
 curred ; but as night came on he took advantage of the dark, 
 ness to quit the ship and to return to his people, carrying 
 with him a number of nails and a hammer belonging to the 
 carpenter, who had been engaged in making a travelling 
 boat for Commander Ross, and which had been engaging his 
 attention, probably with the express design of possessing him- 
 self of such articles as he could lay his hands on. 
 
 On the 27th Commander Ross and the mate accompanied 
 a party of the Esquimaux in one of their expeditions. Pre- 
 vious to their journey, an incident occurred, which had like 
 to have been attended with the most serious consequences. 
 For some time, from the circumstance of Captain Ross having 
 stated to them particular places where they should seek for 
 seals, and which turned out to be successful, they became im- 
 pressed with the idea that he was an Angekok or conjuror, 
 and that events took place according to his will: shortly be- 
 fore the arrival of Commander Ross a little boy had fallen 
 from a precipice and was most severely bruised ; this also was 
 attributed to the power of Captain Ross, and on the approach 
 of Commander Ross, who was fortunately accompanied by Mr. 
 M*Diarmid the surgeon, the Esquimaux manifested feelings 
 of so hostile a character, that Commander Ross and Mr. 
 M*Diarmid stood on the defensive, and raised their guns to 
 their shoulders in order to drive back their assailants ; but af- 
 ter a little parley, and Mr. M'Diarmid assuring them that 
 though the child was much bruised, yet that no bones were 
 broken and that it would shortly recover, peace was restored, 
 through the more particular interference of one of the Esqui- 
 maux females. Commander Ross took the opportunity when 
 their usual intercourse was re-established, to present a clasp 
 
TO THE NORTH POLK- 917 
 
 knife which he had in his pocket to this female, and her thank- 
 fulness and affection toward the donor became so great, that 
 It was with the greatest difficulty he could avoid rubbing 
 noses, (or being koonigged as their word is). She practised 
 every manoeuvre to enjoy the pleasure of rubbing her nose 
 against the nose of the Commander, and he. at length escaped 
 enjoying the favour she intended him by the party setting for- 
 wards on their journey. 
 
 On the 2nd of May the first snow-bird was seen, which was 
 considered as a prognostic of the weather opening. On the 
 following day, a party were sent with provisions for Com- 
 mander Ross, to be placed as had been appointed for his use 
 on his return. As these provisions could not be conveyed 
 without the knowledge of the Esquimaux, recourse was had 
 to a deception in order to prevent their taking possession of 
 them ; it was stated to them that the Angekoks had directed 
 them to convey a certain portion of provisions to a particular 
 spot, for the use of the spirits who had control over the seals 
 and walruses, and that on their attending to these directions 
 depended all their success in the following season. A more 
 powerful or more effectual means could not have been devised 
 to preserve the provisions for the use of Commander Ross and 
 his party ; for after this was made known no power or per- 
 suasion whatever could have induced one of the natives to 
 touch the least portion of the provisions, and they remained in 
 safety till the return of Commander Ross and his party. What 
 a pity it is that these wretched human beings should be en- 
 tirely uninstructed in the knowledge of the true God, and of 
 Jesus Christ the only Saviour of mankind, and left to such 
 diabolical delusions. What a pity that at this time, when ef- 
 forts are making to send the glad tidings of salvation to almost 
 every quarter of the world, the poor and wretched Esquimaux, 
 who occupies one of the most dreary parts of the earth, and 
 possesses fewer means of comfort than any other people un- 
 der the canopy of heaven, should have no Wilberforce, no 
 Butterworth, no follower of the ever blessed Jesus to advocate 
 their cause, to urge the duty of sending the glad tidings of 
 
 P. V. 39. 6 B 
 
918 
 
 salvation to their snowy huts, and to lead them to the know- 
 ledge of him whom to know is life eternal, and whom to serve 
 is perfect freedom. Should these observations fall under the 
 notice of any who can urge forward the claims of this people, 
 let them ever bear the circumstance on their hearts until the 
 event is accomplished. 
 
 On the 4th of May Commander Ross and his companions 
 returned, almost worn out with fatigue. They had killed two 
 musk oxen, but the dogs were so worn out that they were un- 
 able to drag their provisions to the ship. One of the oxen 
 on being brought on board, weighed one hundred and thirty- 
 nine pounds. They also shot some grouse, so that the table 
 in the cabin was well supplied with game. One of the oxen 
 was left behind, where it was killed, until they had time to 
 fetch it away. This circumstance gave the natives an oppor- 
 tunity to cut up the ox and appropriate it to themselves, car- 
 rying it into the vicinity of the ship for the purpose of barter- 
 ing it with the people of the Victory and burying it under the 
 snow. Commander Ross gave to two of the natives who had 
 accompanied him a present each of a knife, in full recom- 
 pense for their services, and not expecting that either of them 
 would claim the ox which was left behind. Notwithstanding 
 this, the Esquimaux had the boldness to bring the ox, cut up 
 in large pieces, to offer for sale, and as one of the party was of 
 a most savage appearance and demeanour, it was thought best 
 to overlook the unfaithfulness manifested, and a file being 
 given as a remuneration, they took their leave. 
 
 In the course of a few days another expedition took place 
 under Commander Ross, accompanied by some of the natives. 
 They set out with two sledges drawn by dogs ; but they had 
 not proceeded to any great distance before seven of the party 
 were severely afflicted in their eyes and became nearly blind, 
 and were obliged to return. Mr M'Diarmid, on examination, 
 stated it to be a species of ophthalmia occasioned by a con- 
 stant exposure to the glare of the snow ; and by his judicious 
 treatment of them, they shortly recovered, excepting that it 
 was necessary to protect the eyes by wearing a shade over 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 9l9 
 
 them. The foot of one of the mates, George Taylor, having 
 been frost bitten, a mortification followed, and it became ne- 
 cessary to take off part of the foot ; this operation was per- 
 formed with great success by Mr. M*Diarraid the surgeon ; 
 and it was indeed rather to be considered as wonderful that 
 more casualties did not occur, when the men were so often ex- 
 posed to the severities of the weather. 
 
 The month of June being now commenced, the crew were 
 busily employed in caulking the ship, setting up the rigging, 
 and making every other preparation for quitting their present 
 situation when the weather would permit. The birds began 
 to re-appear, and plovers, grouse, snipes, buntings and other 
 birds made their appearance, enlivening the scene of their abode, 
 as well as affording a plentiful supply of provisions for the 
 table. 
 
 On the 14th of June Commander Ross returned from his 
 excursion, after an absence of a month, during which time 
 the party had suffered great privations. He brought back 
 only two of his dogs, having been under the necessity of kil- 
 ling some of them to provide food for the others, having been 
 quite unsuccessful in seal catching, and in his efforts to pro- 
 cure food. The men who accompanied him in their appear- 
 ance manifested that they had been passing through the se- 
 verest trials, and the result altogether was of the most un-cheer- 
 ing character. It appeared to be clearly certain that no pas- 
 sage was to be found to the west-ward, and that if it was to 
 be found, it must be sought in a more southerly direction. 
 Still ardent in the pursuit. Commander Ross resolved upon 
 another expedition as soon as circumstances would admit, and 
 the necessary materials and provisions could be prepared for 
 the journey. The lossof the dogs was scarcely possible to be 
 replaced, as the crew, from sickness and fatigue, were not in a 
 proper condition to undergo any severe labour. To drag the 
 sledges through the snow in its present partly melted state re- 
 quired a strength far exceeding what would be needed when 
 the ground was hard frozen, and the surface become of an 
 icy character. However, on the ^5tb^ ten of the most able of 
 
920 nOSS^S SECOND VOYACK 
 
 the crew set forward, carrying a boat which had been cofi-/ 
 structed for the purpose, and, with the assistance of whicli 
 Commander Ross entertained hopes that he should be able to- 
 cross the creeks and inlets which hitherto had so mucb 
 obstructed his progress. In a few hours after he himself set 
 out and followed the steps of his party 
 
 The pumps having been put into order for working, the 
 ship was pumped clear, a circumstance which had not taken 
 place for the last nine months, and the bilged water was ex- 
 tremely offensive, so much so that the men could scarcely stand 
 to their duty; and it became a matter to be remarked upon 
 that this filthy water should have been so long accumulating, 
 in the ship without producing a much greater degree of sick- 
 ness. Having finished the pumping, the men were employed 
 to cut the ship clear, in order that she might be righted, as- 
 she leaned too much to the starboard. Notwithstanding all 
 their efforts they were unable to bring the ship to her proper 
 level and she continued in a degree in a straining position. 
 
 Parties went out at this time every evening with their guns 
 and brought in plenty of fowls, so that there was no occasion 
 to touch the resources of the ship. The geese also laid plen- 
 ty of eggs, and were greatly prized. Several deer with their 
 fawns were also seen in the neighbourhood, but the man who 
 saw them having no gun with him they escaped, and on the 
 following day they could not be traced. Captain Ross having 
 been on excursions, returned on the 3rd of July, and brought 
 with him a large quantity of fish, amounting in weight to about 
 five hundred pounds, which he had purchased from some of 
 the Esquimaux, being the amount of a store which they had 
 laid up the preceding autumn. These fish were in a frozen 
 state, and when thawed the juices of the fish appeared as fresh 
 as though only caught on the preceding day- In consequence 
 of this great supply, which was purchased at the price of a seal 
 knife ; an issue was made of salmon and rice to each man, in 
 lieu of the preserved meats, and they appeared to enjoy the 
 change with great pleasure. A party were now sent to another 
 store offish which had been purchased by Captain Ross, and 
 
TO THE i^ohth pole. 921 
 
 of greater bulk than the former, a great part of which were 
 recently caught. A tank which had been taken out of the 
 Fury was made use of to stow away these fish ; first a layer 
 of snow being laid down, then a layer of salmon, and so al- 
 ternately until the tank was filled. 
 
 On the 9th an Esquimaux made his appearance at the ship, 
 and offered a quantity of salmon for sale, weighing about one 
 hundred and twenty pounds, which were purchased at the 
 price of a seal knife and a file. These fish however were of 
 small size, not weighing more than a pound a fish, and must 
 not be supposed to come to any thing approaching the size of 
 the fish caught in the rivers of Scotland or England. 
 
 On the l6th Commander Ross and Mr. M'Diarmid, with 
 some of the crew accompanied a party of the natives on a fish- 
 ing party, taking their nets with them, a mode of fishing un- 
 known to these people. Their success was very great, and 
 filled the natives with astonishment. On the first haul with 
 the net, they caught 520 salmon, and on the next haul 1130 
 fish were procured. The surprise and joy of these people 
 was excessive on the occasion, and they jumped into the water 
 on observing the fish in shoals, uttering exclamations of joy, 
 and throwing them out with their hands as far as possible up- 
 on the land. Commander Ross gave them as many as they 
 could carry, and told them that in about three days he would 
 again bring his nets, and if he was equally successful, that they 
 should have a further supply. Accordingly at the time ap- 
 pointed, he visited the spot, and found that the Esquimaux 
 were there to meet him. They received him with loud shouts 
 expressive of their joy, and ran towards the lake where they 
 expected to be favoured with the same degree of success they 
 had formerly experienced. The place appeared to be literal- 
 ly full offish, and on throwing in the seine they brought out 
 no less than 3,400 fish, and the weight was so great that ap- 
 prehensions were entertained that the seine would break. 
 
 Nothmg could exceed the pleasure which the Esquimaux 
 manifested at the sight of such anumberof fish, exceeding almost 
 
922 ROSS'S SECOND VOYAaE 
 
 any thing on record, and they were supplied with them to 
 their hearts content, returning to their huts loaded with food 
 for some time to come. The crew continued in the mean time 
 to proceed in rigging the ship, and getting on board the various 
 instruments which had been used in the observatories. On 
 the 20th the crow's nest was got up, and the chests and bed- 
 ding were sent on shore in order that they might be properly 
 aired. There were at this time several of the crew in a sickly 
 state, and symptoms of scurvy appeared ; but every means 
 was used by supplying them with fresh wholesome food, and 
 causing them to take gentle exercise, to promote their recovery. 
 On the 24th of July the ship became clear of the ice, and 
 every prospect was now presented of their bemg able to leave 
 their winter abode. Every exertion was now made to get the 
 ship ready for sea as soon as the ice should be in motion. The 
 launch, which had been drawn under the ice, became disen- 
 gaged, and being hauledon shore, was, on examination, found to 
 have nine of her timbers broken and some of the butts started. 
 It was deemed necessary however that they should take the 
 launch with them, and the carpenter was therefore ordered to 
 put her in complete repair. On the first of August the main 
 ice became loose, but still the way of release for the ship was 
 far from cheering. The wind necessary to open a way for 
 her departure by dispersing the ice, ought to have been south- 
 westerly, whereas for many days it had remained northerly. 
 Several of the crew were in a very bad state of health, and 
 very ill qualified to undertake the arduous duties which thev 
 were now expecting to be called on to perform. At no great 
 distance they saw the ice running and clearing the sea, but 
 the ship was, as it were, cooped up in a small bay, and the ice 
 closely packed around them. Commander Ross went in a 
 boat to examine the state of the ice, and on returning stated 
 that no prospect presented itself of extricating themselves, and 
 even if the ship was moved from her present situation, still there 
 was the appearance of their not being able to proceed far without 
 meeting further besetments; at all events, they had to look forward 
 to a most difficult and intricate navigation, in which much judg- 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 923 
 
 ment and fortitude would be necessary lo accomplish their es- 
 cape. Their present situation was altogether of dismal pros- 
 pect, and tended very much to dispirit the men, as it seemed 
 likely they would have to pass another winter at their present 
 station, with a scarcity of fuel and provisions. Of the latter 
 however, there was at this time an abundant supply, and had 
 been for some time past ; birds and animals were daily killed 
 by the sportsmen, and the fish were apparently inexhaustible. 
 The shoals often came so close to the shore, that they might 
 almost be tossed out by the hand. On the 31st the wind be- 
 came westerly and a dawn of hope began again to arise, but 
 on the 1st of September it changed to the northward again, 
 blowing severely and accompanied with heavy falls of snow. 
 On the following day it became a violent hurricane, and ap- 
 prehensions were entertained that the tackling of the ship 
 would be carried away by it ; the ice also was driven along in 
 large floes, so as to render the passage more difficult for the 
 ship whenever she might float. There was a sufficiency of 
 water to enable the ship to move, but the ice was so packed 
 about the outside of it, that it was useless to attempt at na- 
 vigation. The depth of water where the Victory lay was 
 sometimes very shallow, and varying from three feet to four 
 and five fathoms. It would have been destruction to the ship 
 to attempt to force this passage at low water ; but on the 
 4th of September, taking advantage of the spring tides, the 
 men giving three cheers, began warping the ship through the 
 passage, and to the inexpressible joy of all parties she moved 
 on towards her destination. She had proceeded however 
 but a few yards before she grounded on a rock, and as the 
 tide returned she slipped off and took the bottom. Her situ- 
 ation was thus again become very alarming, but their hope 
 was that she would float at high water, and that she might do 
 so, the laborious duty of lightening her by taking every 
 article out of the ship wras found to be necessary. Great and 
 arduous was thift undertaking, but the necessity was evident 
 and therefore not a murmur was heard, not one expression of 
 dissatisfaction uttered; the, attempt was instantly set about. 
 
9^4 
 
 and the ship was actually cleared of all her stores and provi- 
 sions. Having thus far fulfilled their duty, and a relaxation 
 from labour having opened an opportunity for reflection, some 
 of the crew began to entertain forebodings that their voyage 
 might terminate in the same manner as the Fury, and that 
 perhaps the stores of the Victory might have to remain on the 
 beach to supply the wants of some future voyagers to these 
 northern regions. 
 
 The rising of the tide was now anxiously waited for. Every 
 one had his eye fixed by his solicitude to notice its slow 
 though certain advance. Should she not float there appeared 
 no alternative but to leave her, as the crew of the Fury had 
 done before, and seek to find one of the whaling ships which 
 might frequent the entrance of Lancaster sound, or Baffin's 
 bay : but the hope of finding any ship in diese parts would be 
 vain until the spring, and that therefore they must expect to 
 pass another dreary winter in these inhospitable and cheerless 
 climes. 
 
 Steadily was the eye fixed upon the vessel, as the tide 
 flowed round her ; and deeper and deeper was the anxiety, 
 with which the mark was regarded, which indicated the alti- 
 tude of the tide. It was now three quarters tide, and still 
 the Victory was stationary. The water had risen above the 
 numerical mark on her rudder ; and therefore, unless she was 
 actually jammed in between two rocks, the confidence amount- 
 ed almost to a certainty, that she would float before the wa- 
 ter had reached the high water mark. It was one of those 
 trying moments of human life, which description cannot reach, 
 and which, imagination in the wildest of her flights, can scarce- 
 ly approach. It was the moment of decision, perhaps, be- 
 tween a long and dreary period of misery and want, in the 
 utmost extreme of human suffering, and a safe return to their 
 country and their home. 
 
 Gradually, and as it were with the imperceptible growth ot 
 the tide, the water gurgled round the Victory. It was a 
 breathless expectation, depictured in its strongest features, on 
 the countenances of the anxious mariners ; and, as the ship 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 925 
 
 Ikstlieaveil with the wave, that came rolling towards her— 
 the watch on the bow shouted, " she floats, she floats." 'J1ie 
 sound passed from the foremast to the mizen : and Hope, the 
 tutelar deity of the sailor, whispered her inspirations into 
 €very breast. The tide was not yet at its height; but al- 
 though the ship was afloat, it was impossible to take any ad- 
 vantage of her being at liberty ; for as the stores, and in fact 
 the entire cargo of the Victory, were on the beach, it would 
 have been the extreme of bad management, and jxjrhaps the 
 means of deranging the whole of their future proceedings, if 
 they had attempted to move from the position, in which they 
 then lay. It was, however, considered an act of prudence to get 
 her into deeper water, and she was therefore moved as far as 
 possible further to the northward, and laid alongside of a berg 
 which seemed to form a good hold for her. 
 
 As the tide returned, the ship grounded again in a situation 
 of a most dangerous character, for the bottom was found to 
 consist of forked and sharp pointed rocks, by which the bot- 
 tom of the ship might be greatly injured. Her hull was in 
 danger froni the pressure of the ice, and she might receive a 
 squeeze which would disarrange all her timbers. It was a 
 matter of consideration under such circumstances, whether it 
 would not bo best to push the ship farther on before the stores 
 and provisions were conveyed on board, which in that case 
 raust be effected by means of the launch ; or, whether they 
 should be conveyed on board as the ship now lay. In the 
 latter case there might be a danger of her grounding again, 
 and in the former the distance would occasion a greater delay. 
 To determine this point soundings were taken, and in the end 
 the stores were ordered to be immediately shipped. The whole 
 of the two following days were occupied in conveying the 
 stores on board. The ship now lay in a very dangerous state 
 as had any pressure taken place from the iceberg the ship 
 must have been crushed. However, the re-shipment of the 
 stores were completed without any accident, and the men were 
 set to cut through the icebergs with their saws. The ice how, 
 ever was impelled by the tide into the bay, and formed such 
 
 r. V. 89. 6 c 
 
926 Ross's SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 heavy masses, that they were unable to force a passage through 
 them. On the 11th the wind being southerly, all hands were 
 employed with the ice saws, and a passage seemed to be open, 
 ed, but on trial the ship was found to be so closely bound 
 in with heavy ice, that nothing effectual was accomplished. 
 The crew however continued to employ their saws on the 
 12th and 13th, when at length the ship floated with a south- 
 erly wind. 
 
 On the 17th, the ice opened in a most extraordinary manner, 
 with the wind from the north-north-west, and the Aurora 
 shinin<» most brilliantly. A boat was dispatched to examine 
 the ice, and, from the report, that was received on its return, 
 at 2 o'clock P.M., the Victory was once more under sail, and 
 she stretched along the land until having made nearly four 
 miles, a boat was sent a-head with a whale line, and the ship 
 was made fast to a berg, with the intention of remaining in 
 that position until the following morning. During the 18th 
 and 19th, the wind shifted to almost all the points of the com- 
 pass, driving the ice in every direction. But the Victory had 
 got into such an unfavourable situation, that very little hope 
 remained, of emancipating her from it : no other prospect 
 therefore presented itself, than passing another winter v^^ithin 
 four miles of the former harbour. On the 20th, the wind got 
 round to the south-west, blowing strong : but it was too late 
 for the Victory to take advantage of it, as she was completely 
 frozen in, and the young ice pouring in upon her, in all direc- 
 tions. The labour of the crew was here severe indeed, in cut- 
 ting away the young ice, to keep the ship clear : but it was a 
 most disheartening task, for they had no sooner cleared her in 
 one quarter, than she was blocked up in another; and faint 
 indeed, was now the hope of ever moving the vessel from the 
 perilous situation in which she lay. 
 
 On the morning of the 21st, the wind blew from the east, 
 ward but the ice deviated not from its usual direction ; to- 
 wards mid-day, however, it veered suddenly round to the 
 northward, and on account of this sudden change, the ice came 
 rushing in, driving every thing before it. At that time, the 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 9:^7 
 
 Victory was fast to two large bergs : but the pressure of the 
 ice was so great, that it sent the bergs and the ship right on 
 shore, so that at low water she was lying aground on some 
 very heavy pieces of ice, the ice itself being aground also. 
 As the tide rose, she floated, but with every ebb she rested on 
 the ice, endangering her bottom, and rendering her situation 
 one of the greatest peril. All hands were now employed in 
 clearing away the ice from under her bottom : the consequence 
 of which was, that when the tide ebbed, she came nearly on 
 her broadside. 
 
 On the 27th, the rudder was unshipped ; the wind still 
 blowing hard from the north-east, and about tv^o miles ofl', a 
 vast expanse of clear water, with a very dark watery sky ; but 
 the ship was so blocked up, that it was then reduced to a cer- 
 tainty, that their progress for that season was at an end. Com- 
 mander Ross left the ship to take a view of the position in 
 which the Victory lay, and to seek for a place where she 
 might harbour for the winter. He ascended a hill, and to 
 the northward saw a clear sea, in which the Victory might 
 have been if she had kept on her course, on tbe day that she 
 left Felix Harbour, instead of being fastened to the bergs. 
 
 From the 29th of September to the 3rd of October, the 
 crew were laboriously employed in getting the ship into her 
 winter harbour, and in five days they got her no further than 
 35 feet. The crew were principally engaged in cutting a ca- 
 nal for the ship to winter in, or rather the canal was cut for 
 the purpose of getting the ship into deeper water, for where 
 she then lay, the heavy ice was clear of her bottom ; but, at 
 low water, she would fall on her broadside, if she were not 
 shored up every tide, which was one of the severest labours 
 which the crew had to undergo, during the whol^ of the voy- 
 age : in fact, it may be affirmed, that the privations, which 
 they underwent at this period, and the constant and unremit- 
 ting labour to which they ^ere exposed, may be denominated 
 as the most trying part of the voyage. 
 
 From the 1st. of November to the 10th, the principal duty of 
 tiie crew was unrigging the vessel, and preparing her for her 
 
9^8 Ross's SKCOND VOYAt^E 
 
 wintering ; the wiiid blowing strong, sometimes accompanreil 
 with snow, fiom the northward and the westward. The shi^ 
 was banked up as during the preceding wintery aixl a &!U)w 
 deck was raised as a protection against the violence of the wea- 
 ther. Snow walls were also built about the ship, and an ob 
 servatory was commenced on the highest hill in the immediate 
 vicinity of the harbour, Tlie powder was got out of the ship 
 for fear of fire, and the boats boused up, and covered with 
 snow, to keep them from renting. A spar was placed on a 
 high hill as a flag-staff, for the purpose of guiding the Esqui- 
 maux to the ship, whose visits, during the preceding winter, 
 had, in many instances, been highly acceptable, as they were 
 the purveyors of dift'erent kinds of food, and of materials 
 from which the winter clothing was to be made. In fine wea- 
 ther a flag was hoisted on the spar ; but it was necessary to 
 keep a constant watch upon it, as it was an object which the 
 Esquimaux women had a great desire to obtain possession of, 
 as an ornament round their necks. 
 
 The 30th ot" November was the last day in which they en- 
 joyed the sight of the sun ; and this circumstance led the par- 
 ty to reflect on the privations they probably would have to 
 sustain, and the difiicukies they had logo through, by remain- 
 ing in this inhospitable climate another winter. The ofiScers 
 now began to go out in the pursuit of game, and very few 
 days intervened wherein some were not procured. They thus 
 passed through the months of November and December, keep- 
 ing the festival of Christmas by an extra allowance of grog 
 and soup, and other provisions to the crew in general, and 
 displaying in the cabin all the various dainties which climates 
 of a milder character could be found to [)rovide. The crew 
 had also, in the course of this time, built observatories, and 
 erected snow walls to protect them from the severe winds and 
 drifting of the snow. 
 
 The commencement of the new year was severely cold, and 
 the thermometer was for a few days at sixty degrees below 
 zero ; yet, notwithstanding the severity of the weather, parties 
 often went out on shooting ex])cditions. About the middle of 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 93^ 
 
 the month the weather became more mild, and on the 19th 
 the sun just peeped over the horizon to the great joy of the 
 crew. Notwithstanding the severity of the weather Com- 
 mander Ross was continually visiting the observatory and 
 taking observations. The month of February came in very 
 mild, and great success attended the shooting parties. At 
 one time they saw fifteen grouse in one covey, and killed a 
 great number of foxes. On the 23rd Commander James Ross 
 and Blanky, the mate, commenced the dipping needle, the 
 movements of which they watched with a solicitude and in- 
 tenseness of application that can scarcely be described. 
 
 The weather was very severe during the month of March and 
 more so than the spring of the preceding year ; there was alse 
 oftentimes sudden changes of the weather which greatly affected 
 the crew, who were occupied in fetching gravel for the canal 
 and building snow houses to shade the thermometer. The 
 shooting parties still continued to be very successful, eo that 
 the cabin was abundantly supplied with game. On the 6th 
 of April orders were issued for a party to prepare for an ex- 
 cursion to explore the land which runs to Cook's basin, and 
 also for the purpose of obtaining some musk oxen. To this 
 end they were set to work in constructing a tent for the party 
 to sleep in. This basin or bay was to the northward of the 
 ship, with a long point of land running out to the eastward, 
 which made the point bear north-east from the ship. From 
 the entrance to the head of the bay, was about 37 miles, but; 
 there were a number of very fine rivers, which emptied them- 
 selves into it ; Cook's Basin lay about 38 miles due north from 
 the ship, and it was supposed by going to the head of this bay 
 there would be found a narrow neck of land, or perhaps a 
 passage. 
 
 On the 12th, some seal skins were delivered to the party, 
 for the purpose of making some travelling shoes ; and on the 
 14th some of the Esquimaux dresses, which had been purchas- 
 ed of the natives the preceding winter, were given to the crew, 
 in order to make of them a deer-skin covering for the party, 
 whilst sleeping in the snow house ; for, at this time of the 
 
930 Ross's SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 year, during the travelling expeditions, it was found neces- 
 sary to build a snow house at every stage or resting place. 
 
 The 14th of April was Commander Ross's birth-day, being 
 then 31 years old ; it was celebrated in the cabin, and the 
 crew had each of them an extra allowance of grog. On the 
 18th, the provisions for the travelling party were all weighed 
 and stowed away in the mat sacks ; and on the follow ing day, 
 nine hands vv^ere sent forward about two miles, with the sledge. 
 On the 20th, all hands were up as early as half past two in the 
 morning ; and having partaken of a hearty breakfast, at half 
 past three they set out on their excursion. 
 
 On the 21st, three Esquimaux came to the ship who had 
 been despatched by Commander Ross, with instructions to 
 Captain Ross, to send some men with them, to their huts, for 
 the purpose of bringing away some salmon, that had been 
 buried since the preceding August. The Esquimaux remain- 
 ed on board all night; and early in the following morning. 
 Captain Ross, Mr. M*Diarmid, and three men, accompanied 
 by the Esquimaux, set out with the dogs and sledges, to fetch 
 the fish, and returned at 3 o'clock, bringing with them 252lbs. 
 of fish in very good condition. Two of the Esquimaux came 
 back with the party, and remained on board all night. A 
 supper was provided for them, and they each of them con- 
 trived to consume about three pounds. Their appetites ap- 
 peared to increase in the ratio of the decrease of the food, that 
 was before them . On a sudden, both of them were seized with 
 an excessive vomiting, which appeared to be to them such a com- 
 mon occurrence, that with the greatest coolness, they allowed the 
 malady to subside, and then, if permitted, would have re- 
 turned to dispose of the remainder of the fish ; but, in this 
 they v/ere prevented by one of the officers, who had quite 
 satisfied himself with this specimen of Esquimaux gluttony. 
 These human cormorants took their departure after breakfast. 
 
 On the 16th of May, two different parties set out on an 
 exploring expedition, one of which was under the command 
 of Captain Ross himself, and the other under the direction of 
 Commander James Ross. Each party was accompanied by 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. "931 
 
 five men, and a good supply of provisions. They were to tra- 
 vel in company for a certain distance ; but, as Commandcp 
 Ross's journey was intended to occupy several days more than 
 that of Captain Ross, relays of provisions were appointed to 
 be made for his use at different intervals. The 23rd being 
 the anniversary of the day on which the Victory left Wool- 
 wich, a glass of grog to each man was given in order that they 
 might celebrate the event. 
 
 The foot of the seaman Taylor, which had been frost- 
 bitten, and which, notwithstanding all the attention paid to 
 him by the surgeon Mr. M'Diarmid, became in a worse state 
 and it was determined it should be amputated; accordingly, on 
 the 2nd. of June the operation w^as performed, after which he 
 was laid in his cot with every appearance of doing well. Cap- 
 tain Ross in the mean time returned from his expedition with- 
 out effecting any useful discovery. On the 6th a party were 
 sent out with an additional quantity of provisions for Com- 
 mander James Ross, for a supply on his return, which took 
 place on the 13th of June, after a month's absence, having 
 penetrated much farther than on the preceding year, return- 
 ing by an isthmus which divided two seas, and intersected by 
 a number of lakes. He was informed by the natives that the 
 sea here abounded with walrusses, seals and whales, but the 
 party saw none themselves. Commander Ross stated that al- 
 though he had discovered a sea to the westward, by which 
 their voyage might be extended in that quarter, yet the ap- 
 pearance was on the whole very unfavourable as to the pos- 
 sibility of navigating it : however the circumstance inspired a 
 hope that as soon as the Victory became liberated from her 
 present situation, they might be able to advance to the west- 
 ward so far as to determine the question whether there was a 
 passage to be found in that direction. 
 
 There now began to be some prospect of liberating the ship 
 as the ice melted fast ; but the severity of the frost of the pre- 
 sent year continued to a much later period than that of the 
 preceding. 
 
93^ ROSS*S SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 Preparations were now made to get the ship in a proper 
 state for sea. Fresh water was taken in and the tanks stowed 
 away in the hold ; the housing was taken off, and the ship 
 rigged. On the 2nd of July Commander Ross went on 
 a shooting expedition, and brought back with him five Esqui- 
 maux, four of whom had never been at the ship before. The 
 astonishment, which these poor creatures evinced, on being 
 taken down into the cabin, was most extraordinary ; they ap- 
 peared as if some magician's wand had stricken them motion^ 
 less ; the only part about them, having any tendency to mo- 
 tion, being their eyes, which rolled about from one object to 
 another ; and then, having apparently satisfied their gaze, they 
 burst into a kind of hysterical laugh. On being offered some 
 refreshment, they shook their heads, exclaiming Nak, Nak ; 
 but when they saw their companions, who had been at the 
 ship before, begin to devour the food, which was placed be- 
 fore him, they threw off, by degrees, all reserve, and in a very 
 short time gave a decisive proofs that they were able to sup- 
 port the character of their countrymen for acts of gluttony. 
 On discoursing with one of the men, it was discovered, that he 
 was the possessor of two wives ; but he very cooly intimated, 
 that one of them was very much at the service of any one, who 
 on seeing her, might take a fancy to her. They stopped on 
 board until eight o'clock in the evening, and then departed 
 with some trifling presents. 
 
 On the following day, a party set out in search of the huts 
 of this particular tribe, but returned unsuccessful; during 
 their absence, five men, and three women with three children, 
 arrived at the ship ; but, although they brought neither fish, 
 nor wares with them, yet they were very importunate for 
 some presents, and evinced a strong disposition to pilfer what- 
 soever they could lay their hands upon ; m fact, they appeared 
 to be a more deceitful and dishonourable set of beings, than 
 the natives in the immediate vicinity of Felix Harbour. There 
 was, however, a degree of fun and humour about these men, 
 which had never been witnessed in any other individuals of the 
 Esquimaux tribe, and after a very little persuasion, the sailors got 
 
^O THE KORTH POLE. 933 
 
 them to cxliibit iheix abilities in an Esquimaux dance; in the 
 courso of which they threw themselves into a variety of gro- 
 tesque and ridiculous attitudes, and koojaigged the different 
 sftilors who came in contact with them. 
 
 On the l6th, Commander Ross set out on a fishing ex- 
 cursion, to a place called North Bay, accompanied by Mr. 
 M*Diarmid and eight of the crew, taking tw^o of the Esqui- 
 maux as guides. On the first haul with the net, they caught 
 five hundred, and at the second they caught eleven hun- 
 dred and forty-three ; on seeing the last haul, the natives 
 manifested tlieir joy by loud exclamations, and plunging into 
 the water ladled out the fish with their hands. These natives 
 had never before witnessed the catching of fish by the net, and 
 were filled with the utmost astonishment at the circumstance. 
 On the 2Gth they also caught, at one haul, 3,300 salmon. 
 The privations and sufferings which the men endured, at this 
 tdme, were however of the severest kind ; Curtis's feet wcrc very 
 much excoriated, and Anthony Buck became subject to fits, 
 and was obliged to be conveyed to the ship on a sledge. The 
 fish which had been procured, were preserved after different 
 modes ; some were dried, others were salted and dried, and 
 some were pickled in vinegar, and the crew were thus en- 
 gaged until the end of July. 
 
 On the 3rd of August, the boats were got off* from the 
 shore, and the casks were filled with water ; the ice also be- 
 gan to give way, and the ship drove a few feet from her 
 former position. Although the ship was now liberated from 
 tJie pressure of the ice, and literally surrounded with water, 
 yet the winds were so directly in their teeth, blowing the ice 
 i«to the bay, that no efforts could force a passage into the 
 open sea. On the 5th the ice was in motion about the ship, 
 and all were prepared to take advantage of any opening 
 which might occur, the wind being to the W. N. W. : but 
 after a time the wind veered to the northward, driving the 
 ice into the bay, and choaking up every opening whereby the 
 sliip might escape. The influence which the wind had in 
 
 P. V. 40. 6 D 
 
934 R09S*S SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 making an opening by clearing away the ice in one hour, and 
 in the next choaking up the opening by driving the ice into 
 the bay, occasioned the necessity of being on the watch to 
 take advantage of any favourable moments that might occur. 
 During this period the ship had been made fast to an iceberg, 
 which being aground, and apparently immovable, she was, as 
 all supposed, in a state of safety ; on the 9th however, to the 
 great terror of all on board, the berg capsized with a tremen- 
 dous crash, and the ship would have been thrown on her 
 beam ends, but that the hawsers snapped with the strain, and 
 left the vessel without any moorings. All hands instantly 
 turned out, and the vessel was quickly made fast to another 
 berg, although her present situation did not seem to be with- 
 out leaving apprehensions for her safety. 
 
 On the 12tb, a party of the Esquimaux paid them a visit, 
 among whom was the native, for whom a wooden leg v^^as 
 made by the carpenter. He had the misfortune to break his 
 wooden leg, and paid this visit to solicit the gift of another, 
 vy^hich accordingly was promised to be got ready for him, 
 against the next day, when he came again to the ship, accom- 
 panied by the whole of the tribe, amounting together in men, 
 women and children to twenty-two persons, among these 
 several were recognized as having been their acquaintance, 
 when lying in Felix harbour, and a familiarity quickly took 
 place of a laughable character, as the Esquimaux plated 
 their noses in close contact with the noses of their former 
 acquaintance, and koonigged the sailors till their faces had 
 partaken somewhat of the dirty colouring, of their northern 
 acquaintance. Dancing was now introduced and the Esqui- 
 maux ladies laid hold of officer or sailor, just as they came 
 within their reach, playing all manner of antics much after 
 the manner of Bartholomew Fair. Mr. Light accompanied 
 all their movements by various tunes on his violin, and jump- 
 ing and jollity continued till all were tolerably well fatigued 
 with their various amusements. They afterwards partook of a 
 repast of baktd seal and blubber, and were then rowed on 
 
TO THE KORTII POLE. 935 
 
 shore fully satisfied with the kindness of their hosts and 
 made the best of their way to their several huts. On Sunday, 
 the 14th the Esquimaux again presented themselves on the 
 beach, making signs that they desired to come on board; 
 Captain Ross consented, and ordered a boat to be sent for 
 them. There was considerable difficulty in making the 
 women sit still, and one of the youngest having fixed her 
 affections upon one of the sailors, resolved in despite of all 
 law or rule, that she would koonig him in the boat ; the con- 
 sequence was that this lady would have been immersed, head 
 and heels in the water, but for the interference of one of the 
 sailors. This however, to an Esquimaux of either sex, is no 
 great punishment, for in their travels to their fishing and 
 hunting stations, the ice frequently gives way beneath their 
 weight, and they are plunged into the water ; this so often 
 happens, that they regard it as a matter of course. 
 
 On the 15th, ten Esquimaux came on board, complaining 
 that their provisions were gone; some seal and blubber were 
 cooked for them, Abernethy having succeeded in getting a 
 seal on board which he had mortally wounded the preceding 
 day. This was a fortunate occurrence, for it seldom happens 
 that the seal travels far from its hole, (the space of water 
 being so called by the Esquimaux, when the seals come up 
 for the purpose of respiration) and even if the bullet were to 
 strike him in a vital part, he generally rushes into the water, 
 and dies beneath the ice. At their departure, Commander 
 Ross gave a proportion of dried fish to those who had families, 
 and a smaller quantity to those who had none, the greater 
 part of the fish was in a mutilated state, having been deprived 
 of a head or tail by their own dogs, but this circumstance did 
 not appear to depreciate the fish in their estimation. 
 
 The weather for this month was exceedingly inauspici- 
 ous ; on the l6th a heavy fall of snow took place, and there 
 was alternate rain and snow, throughout the remainder of 
 that day, and part of the succeeding one the ice ; continued sta- 
 tionary, and there appeared no prospect of its clearing away for 
 some time. On the 20th the wind blew strong from W. S. W. 
 
936 ROSSES SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 and the ice setting N. E. On the following day, however, dm 
 wind veered suddenly round to the eastward, which, in the 
 situation the Victory then lay, was the most adverse wind 
 that could blow, the ship not having the slightest shelter. 
 The berg, to which the vessel was fastened astern, floated^ 
 and the bower anchor was immediately got ready. The 
 Victory was now placed in a very awkward predicament ; the 
 wind at east, blowing dead upon the land, drove the whole 
 body of the ice direct into the place where the ship lay. On 
 the 22nd the wind blew from the northward, with all the 
 loose ice drifting on shore, this was fortunate for the Victory,, 
 and an anchor and a hawser were taken to a berg astern, it 
 being aground, and the ship was fastened to it. 
 
 On the evening of the 26th, the ice set in with an over- 
 powering force, by which the whale Iwat got a tremendous 
 nip, which broke all her timbers and five thwarts, and render- 
 ed her nearly useless. She was got on board after consider- 
 able labour, when she was cut in two, by order of Captain 
 Ross, and a four-oared boat made of one of the parts. I'he 
 wind now blew from the south and east, and it was judged 
 advisable to moor the ship afresh, and a party was sent on 
 shore, for that purpose. TTie crew were afterwards employed 
 in greasing the masts, -loosening sails, and other duties neces- 
 sary to be performed, before the vessel would be prepared to 
 leave her second winter harbour: an event which was daily 
 to be looked for, with very great vigilance on the part of the 
 officers, and afforded them little leisure for any other occupa^ 
 tion. 
 
 Early on the morning of the 27th, the moorings, which had 
 been fastened to the shore, suddenly snapped from the heavy 
 strain that was continually upon them ; all hands were turn- 
 ed out to secure the ship again, but although it was effected, 
 the situation, in which the vessel lay, was not considered as 
 wholly exempt from danger. At eight o'clock in the even- 
 ing, the wind blowing from the westward, the ice became a!l 
 in motion, driven to the southward and the eastward. 
 
 The 28th was the day of emancipation of the Victory, from 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 937 
 
 her long confinement in her second winter harbour. The 
 morning broke, with fresh breezes from the south, but at 
 eight o'clock the wind changed to the W. N. W. and all 
 hands were employed in clearing t e ice from the ship. A t 
 nine o'clock hove the larboard hawser taught, and then cut it, 
 as it was under a piece of ice, that was aground ; several hands 
 were now sent on shore, to bring off whatever remained 
 belonging to the ship, and at 1 p. m. she was warped up to 
 windward, at 4 p. m. the ship was made fast to a piece of 
 ground ice. Commander Ross, with a boat's crew now went on 
 shore, for the purpose of ascertaining the state of the ice that 
 was running out of the North Bay, which had continued with- 
 out intermission for eight or nine hours; and therefore it was 
 his opinion, that there must be an end to it. He ascended 
 an exceedingly high hill, that looked not only directly into 
 the bay, but also up it ; and on returning to the ship, he in- 
 formed Captain Ross that the ice seemed to be clear. As tlie 
 wind was from the W. N. W. they cast off, and stretched 
 along the land, keeping the ship in the wind, for the pur- 
 pose of getting the dingey on board, she being sent to cast 
 off the line. A piece of ground ice under their lee, obliged 
 them to go about ship on the starboard tack, by which cir- 
 cumstance a great deal of ground was lost, which was consi- 
 derably increased by being obliged to take the Launch in tow 
 astern of the ship, thereby hanging as a dead v«reight upon 
 her, when she ought to have been entirely free from every in- 
 cumbrance of the kind. The ship having hardly headway, 
 again brought another berg under their lee, which it was 
 found impossible to weather, and the ship struck it on her 
 larboard bow, which shoved her head up ; but as she did not 
 lose her headway, she went about her own length, and took 
 the rocks forehead, and her stern dropped in on the berg, 
 and the rudder was nearly knocked to pieces. 
 
 The consequences of this accident were of the most serious 
 aspect, the ship was for a time unmanageable, and in a situation, 
 that, had the wind blown with violence from the northward, 
 the sailors would really have been obliged to exclaim, "good 
 
2^8 Ross's SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 bye. Victory." The carpenters were employed during the 
 night in repairing the rudder, which could only be performed 
 by lantern light, the task therefore proceeded slowly, and in. 
 securely ; independently however of this inauspicious event, 
 the ship was lying all the while, with her forefoot on the 
 rocks, in the most imminent danger of having her bottom 
 injured, or of falling on her broadside. In order to provide 
 against the latter calamity, a hawser was got out to the west- 
 ward, it was a matter almost of life or death, the very exis- 
 tence of the Victory depended at this moment, upon the 
 strength and goodness of the hawser ; the strain was tre- 
 mendous, the men were hanging on their hand-spikes, another 
 haul of the capstern, and perhaps all was safe. This was a 
 moment of breathless anxiety and expectation, she floated 
 into deep water, and was hauled in shore to the westward, 
 and remained in that position during the whole of the night. 
 
 The morning of the 29th broke with strong breezes from 
 west by south, all hands were turned out as early as eight 
 o'clock in the morning, and the first part of their duty was to 
 ship the rudder. The boat was next hoisted up, and the 
 vessel was once more under way. The dingey was got on 
 board, and the ship stretched gallantly across the bay, to- 
 w^ards the north point. At 5 p, m. the breezes freshened, by 
 which the jib was split, and the mizen lug boom carried 
 away ; a new jib was immediately bent, the ship working 
 hard to windward. 
 
 At seven they set the gaff top-sail and fore-top-gallant-sail, 
 some heavy squalls coming on, with the wind veering to the 
 northward, and thick weather accompanied with snow. A 
 small bay clear of ice was now entered by them ; and the ship 
 was hauled to the wind and put about, while in stays she 
 was however baffled by the wind from westering, but still ha- 
 ving head- way she ran so close to the shore as to create much 
 apprehension. The jib eventually took the right way, and as 
 the ship came round, she caught with her keel upon the rocks 
 so close to land, that it was very easy to step from the stern 
 on shore. At eleven, they tacked again, and stood over to 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 939 
 
 the south-west shore : the boat was sent away with a forty 
 fathom line, and it was made fast on shore : they hove on it, 
 but it slipped off, the ship at that time having shortened sail. 
 The lead vi^as heaved overboard, and found twenty-three fa- 
 thoms water ; the anchor was let go, and another line run out 
 to which the ship was made fast. In the afternoon, Com- 
 mander Ross surveyed the bay, and, on his return, the ship 
 was got to the head of it. The wind N.N.E. with snow : the 
 ice running to the southward. The name of Victory Har- 
 bour was given to the bay by Commander Ross. About two 
 miles and a half to the north-east of this harbour, there is a 
 passage round the point, through whicji runs a strong tide. 
 On the 30th, Commander Ross and a boat's crew went to the 
 passage to see if it was clear of ice, and reported on his re- 
 turn, that it was blocked up, the ice running to the northward. 
 He made another survey on the evening of the same day, and 
 found the ice much more open ; some hope was therefore en- 
 tertained that their present harbour was not intended to be 
 their winter one. 
 
 On the 31st, the hands were employed in mooring the ship ; 
 towards evening, to the great satisfaction of the crew, the wind 
 came on to blow hard from the south-west, and, before the 
 night closed, it blew a gale direct from the south. This was 
 the very wind for which they had so earnestly prayed, as be- 
 ing the most favourable for driving the ice out of the bay, 
 and removing the blockade at the entrance, so as to enable 
 them to get out. On the morning of the 1st of September the 
 wind continued to blow strong from the south and south-west ; 
 and as their return to England depended solely upon the 
 continuance of this wind, it was with the most fluctuating 
 feelings of hope and fear, that the crew watched even the 
 slightest change, dreading the least variation of the vane, as 
 if their existence depended upon it. The dreadful consequen- 
 ces that would in all probability result, in the event of their 
 being compelled to remain during the winter in their present 
 situation, were well known to all the men ; they were well a- 
 ware that no other fate could possibly await them, than their 
 
940 ROSS'S SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 being obliged to travel to Fury Beach the following spring, 
 with the most distressing uncertainty upon their minds, whe- 
 ther they should find the stores as they had left them ; for the 
 provision they had remaining on board the Victory was bare- 
 ly sufficient to last till the following May, if the men continu- 
 ed on full allowance during the whole time. But their bright 
 hopes were soon dispelled ; and the golden, though delusive 
 opportunity that presented itself for so short a period, was 
 totally lost, for before five o'clock the ice came running into 
 the bay at a rapid rate. The starboard bower anchor was let 
 go, and all hands were turned out to secure the ship, v^^hich 
 was accomplished, though contrary to the expectations of the 
 major part of the crew. On the 2nd of October, the bay was 
 full of ice. The ice appeared in the offing accordingly as the 
 tide ebbed or flowed, north or south. By four o'clock in the 
 afternoon, the bay was clear of ice, the wind bio vising fresh 
 from the north to north -v^r est. 
 
 At tiiree o'clock in the morning of the 3rd, all hands were 
 turned out, to heave the ship over to the north, as where 
 she then lay her keel at times touched the ground. At six 
 o'clock. Commander Ross with a boat's crew, went to examine 
 the state of the ice in the passage ; and, on his return, in a- 
 bout two hours, reported that it was clear of ice, but the w^ind 
 was dead foul against them. Towards evening, it blew a tre- 
 mendous gale from the north, on which the yards were point- 
 ed to the wind. A heavy fall of snow ensued, which came 
 driving with the wind with such violence, thatit was impossi- 
 ble for the men to stand up against it. The ice also, impel- 
 led by the wind, ran rapidly to the southward, accompanied 
 with a roar, which, at midnight, was calculated to instil the 
 feelings of horror and of awe into the stoutest heart. 
 
 On the 6th, very heavy ice was setting fast into the bay ; 
 on which every man was ordered out to secure the ship. With 
 great difficulty she was got into the middle of the harbour, 
 where she received the heaviest nip that had befallen her du. 
 ring the whole of her voyage. So great was the pressure that 
 she careened nearly keel out, and did not get righted lor se- 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 941 
 
 v«ral hours, during which it was apprehended every moment 
 that she would fall on her beam ends. After the most strenuous 
 exertions, the ice being partially cleared away, she righted ; 
 and then, with the least possible delay, was got to the head of 
 the bay, and moored to the rocks, and to a berg. The ruddet 
 was now unshipped, and every precaution taken, to prevent the 
 recurrence of a similar disaster, on which, perhaps, the verj 
 fate of the vessel depended. 
 
 In the evening of a few days after, a party of Esqui- 
 maux, belonging to the family of Tuluach, came to the ship, 
 and complained much of the want of provisions, which ap- 
 peared rather strange to the officers, who well knew that their 
 stow-holes were full of fish, and perhaps better filled than 
 ever they were before, on account of their having received a 
 great quantity from the different fishing parties belonging to 
 the Victory, w^hich the men could not bring away with them. 
 From the statement of these people, it appears, that each 
 season has its appointed kind of food, as in the same manner 
 distinguishes more fertile and fruitful countries. They ge- 
 nerally resort to their stow-holes in the summer, when their 
 principal food is fish, as the seals have then migrated to other 
 parts ; but again return about the month of September, very 
 few, however, were to be seen at this time ; and, as the cir- 
 cumstance of some having been shot by the officers and crew, 
 had come to the knowledge of the natives on their previous 
 visit, they now presented themselves before the great Ange- 
 kok to pray his interference with the seals, and force them to 
 appear in greater numbers. They had applied to their own 
 Angekok, who had accordingly paid a visit to the spirit, who, 
 in the low^r regions, holds dominion over the seals, and a ter- 
 rible conflict, according to the representation of the Angekok, 
 Iiad taken place between them ; which terminated by the 
 great spirit being obliged to succumb to his superior prowess, 
 and promising that the seals should be set at liberty. But 
 for some reason, which they could not exactly divine, {although 
 they had their suspicions on the subject,) the great spirit had 
 failed in keeping his promise; in consequence, the seals were 
 
 P. V. 40. 6 £ 
 
942 ROSSES SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 still kept from visiting the upper world ; and tliey felt con- 
 vinced, that unless the spirit below could by some powerful 
 means be brought to his proper senses, and compelled to 
 forego his unjust hold upon the seals, the ultimate result 
 would be, that the whole of the tribe would be reduced to 
 absolute starvation. Under this pressing exigency, and with 
 the most sanguine hopes of having so great a calamity avert- 
 ed, they solicited the aid and assistance of the mighty Ange- 
 kok, (Captain Ross,) on board " the great house," as the 
 Victory was termed, for his superior dignity and importance had 
 succeeded in making such deep impressions upon the minds 
 of the natives, that they felt thoroughly convinced that his 
 power extended so far, as to give the refractory spirit below a 
 hearty drubbing, and force him to rehnquish his dominion, 
 not only over the seals, but also over all the other animals which 
 had thrown themselves under his protection. 
 
 Captain Ross had such strong proofs of the natives being 
 so thoroughly convinced that the seals were under his domi- 
 nion, that he deemed it politic and advisable, for very cogent 
 reasons, to let them remain in their error ; and he therefore 
 undertook, that if they would pay a visit to the ship after a 
 senik, or sleep, to take care that a seal should be in readiness 
 for them. Fortunately, however, for Captain Ross, two 
 seals had been brought to the ship on the preceding day, 
 which they had not skinned ; and, therefore, the fulfilment did 
 not depend upon the contingency of being able to kill one ; 
 indeed, if he had not been swayed by a particular motive, he 
 could have given them the seal at that moment, but the delay 
 was designedly sought for, in order to confirm the natives in 
 their belief of his supernatural powers, and that the ac- 
 quisition of a seal at any time depended merely upon his 
 will. Captain Ross also found it to be greatly to his 
 interest, to encourage the natives in entertaining a belief 
 of his supernatural powers, as it was the means of inti- 
 midating them, and preventing them from committing ma- 
 ny thefts, which would otherwise have taken place; for, 
 the conviction was strong upon their minds, that he was in 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 94S 
 
 possession of a power which would enable him to discover the 
 thief, and force him to the restitution of the stolen property, 
 with the immediate infliction of the punishment annexed to 
 the commisssion of so heinous an offence. 
 
 It became at last, a settled point, with the men, that they had 
 reached the extent of their voyage to the westward ; and, on 
 the same evening, one of the men went to the top of the near- 
 est hill, and returned with the report that the ice appeared 
 to be setting into the bay ; but, that to the westward, the sea 
 was clear of ice as far as the eye could reach. It was under 
 such circumstances that the crew felt the peril of their situa- 
 tion, the prospect before them being good and cheerful, while 
 the vessel was as firmly bound, as if she had been wedged in 
 with iron. It was suggested by Commander Ross whether 
 it would not be practicable to cut a groove or canal through 
 the ice sufficiently large to allow of the passage of the ship; 
 but the extraordinary and sudden variation of the wind was a 
 great impediment to any scheme, which had for its design the 
 liberation of the ship ; for, if it blew from a favourable quar- 
 ter in the morning, in the evening it would change to one di- 
 rectly opposite, but chiefly hanging to the northward, which, 
 although favourable for clearing the bay of ice, was directly 
 against the sailing of the ship. 
 
 Early on the following morning, Commander Ross, accom- 
 panied by Mr. M* Diarmid, set out upon an excursion ; the 
 result of which was, that the Victory, unless some most ex- 
 traordinary circumstances should occur, would be doomed to 
 pass another winter amidst scenes of desolation, darkness, and 
 danger ; it was also very evident, that all chance of success, in 
 the great object of their expedition was thrown away, not to be 
 again recovered ; for, on the supposition that on the breaking 
 up of the ice they could find a passage to the westward, 
 it would not be prudent to attempt it, and thereby run the 
 risk of being blocked up again for another winter, with a dearth 
 of fuel, and dependent in a great degree, upon the casual suc- 
 cess of the sportsmen for their maintenance. To attempt ano' 
 ther winter, exposed above all things to scarcity of fuel, would 
 
944 HOSs's SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 be tantamount to the death of the whole of the crew, and 
 under circumstances at which the human imagination must 
 shudder, and for which scarcely a parallel could be found in 
 history, with the exception of the death of Sir Hugh Willough- 
 by and his crew on the coast of Spitzbergen. 
 
 This melancholy prospect tended, in a great n^easure, to give 
 a wholly different direction to the pursuits in which the offi- 
 cers, and particularly Commander Ross, had been hitherto 
 engaged. As they were fully aware, that if they abandoned 
 the ship, they should have to leave all the fruits of their sci- 
 entific labours behind ; it became a matter of indifference to 
 them, whether, as far as regarded the specimens, it was worth 
 the trouble to extend their researches ; and the same argu- 
 ments held good in a philosophical point of view, for it was 
 not known whether they would be able to take any of those 
 documents with them, which contained the result of their ex- 
 periments and observations on the different subjects of natu- 
 ral history, or of the geographical or astronomical phenomena. 
 
 On the morning of the 10th, the wind blew fresh from the 
 north-west, but the ice remained stationary. About four 
 o'clock in the afternoon, to their great surprise^ the ice made a 
 move, as if it were drifting out of the bay. Commander Ross 
 and Mr. M*Diarmid being out on a shooting excursion, a maa 
 was sent to seek them, to apprize them of the move of the 
 ice, and to hasten their return to tlw ship ; but, previous to their 
 return, the ice had again become stationary, and, if possible, 
 more densely packed than it was before. 
 
 On the 13th, the wind veered round to the south-west, and 
 hopes were then entertained, that if the wind continued in that 
 direction, the ice would be driven out of the bay, and the Vic- 
 tory set at liberty. Some idea however, may be formed, of the 
 sudden changes which so frequently take place in the wjnd in 
 those high latitudes, from the different quarters from which it 
 blew on this day. In the morning it blew from the north ; at 
 two o'clock in the afternoon from the south-west ; at four 
 from the east ; and at five, from the north -north-west, blowing 
 a very heavy gale. 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 945 
 
 The gales from the north-north -west continued till the 
 14th, but (he crew were sent out on the ice to clear away the 
 lines and hawsers that were frozen in the young ice, and then 
 laying them on the ice, so as to be all clear, in case the ship 
 should make a move. They got the tools in readiness, as it 
 was apprehended that if the ice were not removed from the 
 sides of the ship, she would, on her first motion, receive a nip 
 similar to that which she experienced on first entering the bay, 
 which placed her in the most imminent danger. 
 
 On the 15th, three men were sent to the hills to take ob^ 
 servations of the state of the ice, but reported on their return 
 that it was closely packed far beyond the mouth of the bay. 
 On their way to the hills they set the ermine trap, but it was 
 more as a matter of amusement, than from any expectation 
 that any great profit or advantage could be derived from the 
 skin of so small an animal. The fur, however, being of a ve- 
 ry close nature was worn by the officers round their necks ; 
 and a superstitious notion, was also attached to it, that he who 
 wears an ermine's skin, was never known to die of cold. 
 
 Strong apprehensions were entertained that they would be 
 obliged to kill the dogs for food, as no Esquimaux had come 
 to the ship with seal and walrus flesh, nor had any seals been 
 seen for some time in that part of the couiitry. On the l6th, 
 Abernethy, (or the game-keeper as he was called) being out 
 on an excursion, observed several seals playing about a patch 
 of water but could not get within shot of them, on account of 
 the fickle state of the ice. On his returning to the ship, and 
 reporting such joyful information, the dingey was hauled out 
 to the place where the seals had been seen, and in a very 
 short time. Commander Ross succeeded in killing one of them. 
 Abernethy also brought to the ship two hares and three 
 grouse. 
 
 By the 19th the ice was so thick, that the ship was consider- 
 ed to be totally frozen in. The young ice was five inches and 
 a half thick, and kept increasing in thickness. The only re- 
 maining chance of escaping from the bay, was, by cutting a 
 groove across it, in case the ice should take a turn. Some 
 
946 Ross's SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 hope indeed was entertained that this, would be the case, as^ 
 from a survey taken from a hill in the immediate vicinity, the 
 ice was seen outside running rapidly to the southward, whilst 
 at the distance of about two miles from the mouth of the bay, 
 no ice whatever was to be seen. 
 
 On the SOth, the wind hauling to the south, set the ice to 
 the north ; and as the north-east point lay a long way out it 
 brought up a large floe, which completely blocked up the har- 
 bour. Had this unfortunate circumstance not occurred, it 
 was the general opinion that the ship would have been got out 
 into clear water, for the ice had so completely gone off the 
 shore, that no trace of any could be distinguished by the na- 
 ked eye in that direction. To the seamen, who are at all times 
 prone to superstition, it appeared that this floe was placed there 
 by some hostile genius, for the sole purpose of preventing the 
 Victory from gaining her liberty. It is however, an undoubt- 
 ed fact, that to this floe is, in a great measure, to be ascribed 
 the circumstance of the Victory being obliged to pass the win- 
 ter in her present harbour ; and it may also be said that this 
 was the last chance which ever presented itself of the vessel 
 making her escape, for, by the beginning of October, the win- 
 ter set in with such a severe intensity, that all hope was aban- 
 doned of ever getting the Victory out again, and they looked 
 upon her as another sacrifice in the search of an object, which, 
 as a geographical problem, it is very desirous should be solved ; 
 but the advantages that would be derived therefrom in a com- 
 mercial point of view, are scarcely worthy of the pursuit. 
 
 During the latter part of September, the wind blew from 
 the south-west to the south-south-west, driving the ice into the 
 bay, as if there were no other place in which it could accu- 
 mulate. On the 20th it rushed in with such force, that it 
 drove the ship eleven feet nearer to the shore. It was then 
 deemed necessary to moor her afresh, which was done by 
 taking her chain cables on shore, and giving them a turn 
 round a very large rock, and then backed to an anchor. 
 
 -As soon as they had got the ship securely moored, a man 
 was sent to the hills to take a survey of the ice ; who reported. 
 
TO THE NORTH POLfi. 9^7 
 
 on his return, that it was making off the shore, and that clear 
 water could be discerned as far as the eye could reach ; but 
 to their great mortification, the bay was completely choaked 
 up, and also to seaward or south-east of the 1 arbour. Per- 
 haps no situation could be more galling to the crew of a ves- 
 sel, than that in which the seamen of the Victory were placed ; 
 their distance from the open sea being scarcely two miles ; be- 
 yond which no ice whatever could be seen in the route which 
 it was their intention to take ; and which presented, as the 
 seamen termed it, a glorious run before them ; while they 
 were bound as fast as if wedged in with a mass of molten iron, 
 without any seeming possibility of being relieved from their 
 perilous situation ; and they were thus compelled to submit to 
 the miseries of such tantalizing feelings, the effects of which 
 can be imagined by none but those who have been placed in 
 similar distressing situations. 
 
 The 22nd brought with it a most cheerful prospect, and 
 raised the joyful hopes and expectations of the whole of the 
 crew to the highest pitch ; for, at four o'clock in the morning, 
 to their great astonishment and delight, the bay appeared all 
 clear of ice, as if the work had been achieved by the agency 
 of some powerful magician. The ice was above a miie and a 
 half off shore ; and at seven o'clock all hands were turned 
 out to cut a canal through the young ice ; strongly impressed 
 with the hope that the period of their emancipation had ar- 
 rived. At ten o'clock, however they all returned on board, 
 on account of the ice beginning to close in ; but at twelve it 
 again made a move outwards, and the men were enabled to 
 resume their labours. By three o'clock the canal was finished, 
 and all were then anxiously waiting, in great expectation, for 
 the moment when the Victory was to be loosed from her 
 moorings, and to proceed on her voyage. Towards night the 
 ice began to set in from north-east, with variable winds ; but 
 if no adverse circumstances took place in the night, they enter- 
 tained the most flattering hopes that it would be possible for 
 them to tow the ship through the canal, and gain the ofiing, 
 where there was not the slightest appearance of ice. 
 
948 boss's second voyaoe 
 
 Early on the morning of the 2Srd, two men were sent over 
 the hills to survey the state of the ice ; and they reported 
 that it was close packed in shore, yet that it was quite loose 
 in the offing. All hands were immediately put to clearing 
 away the heavy ice from the mouth of the canal, and the 
 whale boat was sent away to examine its state in the offing. 
 They found it to be setting south-west, which proved, indeed 
 a severe check to the fulfilment of their hopes, and by ten 
 o'clock on the following morning, the final blow was given to 
 the expected emancipation of the Victory, her doom was in- 
 evitably sealed ; for the ice set into the bay at a most rapid 
 rate, sweeping every thing before it with an irresistible force, 
 and before mid-day the whole of the bay was more densely 
 choaked than it had ever appeared at any previous period. 
 AH hands were then employed in securing the ship, as also 
 the boats that were on the young ice, and afler a considerable 
 degree of labour, they succeeded in getting the ship to the 
 bottom of the canal, and there making her fast. 
 
 On the S4th the ice again began to move with an appear- 
 ance of its leaving the bay ; but, if the navigation had been 
 clear, the wind was directly adverse to their leaving the har- 
 bour, as it blew hard from the north, which, although favour- 
 able for clearing it of ice, was contrary to enabling the ship, 
 if out, to clear the north-east point of the bay. 
 
 The clear water outside, was open until nearly the end of 
 October ; but in the bay the ice was a foot in thickness ; and 
 they now totally abandoned every hope, of ever again reach- 
 ing England in the Victory. They now deemed it advisable 
 to properly secure the ship, so as to be enabled to render her 
 as comfortable a residence as possible for the much dreaded 
 approaching winter ; as they could not entertain the slightest 
 expectation of ever being able again to get her to sea ; she 
 was, therefore, totally unrigged, and every thing that could 
 possibly be taken, was carried on shore, with the exception of 
 the provisions, which they found reduced to a very small 
 quantity ; there not remaining a sufficiency for the support of 
 the crew beyond the ensuing May or June. 
 
TO THE NORTH POLK. 949 
 
 At this place it was that the discovery of the posit<on of the 
 magnetic pole was made. Captain Ross stated to the Com- 
 mittee of the House of Commons, that by observations they 
 determined tliat the ship was within a very short distance of 
 tlie magnetic pole; and, in May 1831 a series of observations 
 fixed the point of Jon^tude about 96*^ 4)7' : he says, whichever 
 way we passed it, the compass turned towards it horizontally ; 
 and, when we were to the north or south of it we turned a 
 variation of 180 degrees; when we were east or west, our 
 variation was 90 degrees. 
 
 He was then asked by a member of the Committee, " Did 
 that increase by degrees, or all at once ?" 
 
 " By degrees, as we proceeded round it ; our instruments 
 were constructed for the purpose, deUcately hung on hairs. 
 I had one instrument constructed by Dollond, for the express 
 purpose of observing the diurnal variation." 
 
 *' Although Captain Parry never arrived at tne point of 
 the magnetic pole, is it iK)t the case, that he had ascertained 
 its situation, by experiments, that he had made ?'* 
 
 '' Certainly not, Captain Parry is as much on the one side, 
 as Captain Franklin was on the other ; and it is an extra- 
 ordinary fact, the mean between the two, comes within a short 
 distance of the actual spot/' 
 
 •* Does Captain Parry state, in any part of his despatches 
 to the Admiralty, or his book^ that he discovered the magnetic 
 pole?" " 
 
 ^^No." 
 
 *' He lays no claim to it r" 
 
 "No, he only stated the supposed situation of it, which 
 turned out to be 100 miles erroneous." 
 
 ** Within what area do you conceive you have reduced the 
 situation of it r" 
 
 " One mile." 
 
 '' Will you state to the committee, how near to the actual 
 position of the magnetic pole, in the expedition under your 
 command, you, or any observer attached to that expedition, 
 
 r. V. 40. 'O F 
 
950 ROSS'S SECOKD VOYAGE 
 
 approached the position, taken by estimate, and not by obser- 
 vation ?" 
 
 " The position was taken by observation, by Commander 
 Ross, who reported to me, that lie had reached the exact 
 spot : this accorded with my own observations at the ship, and 
 at several other places, at a short distance from the position 
 he laid it down," 
 
 ** Are the committee to understand, that at several differ- 
 ent spots, that particular position of the magnetic needle, that 
 dip took place, which authorizes you to assert, such spot or 
 spots to be the true position of the magnetic pole; in other 
 words, did the needle dip perpendicularly at more than one spot, 
 and if at more than one, what was the distance between any 
 one and any other ? 
 
 " The needle dips more at the exact spot." 
 
 " What was the area ?" 
 
 **^ 1 think, within a mile: but all these things are going through 
 a committee ; there is a committee of scientific calculation ; 
 there is a spherical calculation of scientific people on shore, 
 which will make the necessary allowances for the spherical 
 figure of the earth." 
 
 Captain Beaufort, hydrographer to the Admiralty, is as- 
 ked, 
 
 '* Have you any reason to believe that Captain Ross dis- 
 covered, or that he approached the temporary position of the 
 magnetic pole, during the last voyage ?" 
 
 " From what he says, he seems to have been very near it ; 
 and his observations very nearly agree with those of Captain 
 Franklin and Captain Parry, in their previous voyages ; they 
 all point to about the same place, but he was much nearer to 
 it than his predecessors." 
 
 " You consider that he approached much nearer to it, than 
 any of his predecessors ?" 
 
 " Yes, close to it, I should think," 
 
 *« Do you mean, that he in person approached nearer to it, 
 or, that he fixed the point with greater accuracy, than his 
 predecessors had done T"" 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 951 
 
 " I mean to say, that either lie, or his nephew, or both^ 
 from the description they gave of their observations, appear 
 to have been close to it." 
 
 " Did he fix the situation of the magnetic pole with 
 greater accuracy, than had been previously done by others ?" 
 
 ** 1 think whoever approached nearest to it, may be con- 
 sidered to have the best claim to that honor ; but there can 
 be no specific or precise point, within a degree or half a de- 
 gree : like the point of a needle, its exact position must be 
 involved in doubt, even with the most accurate observation, 
 and can be determined only by observing the direction of the 
 needle, at several different points around it." 
 
 ** Do you conceive that the phenomena observed by Cap- 
 tain Ross, with respect to the magnetic pole, are of any ad- 
 vantage to science ?" 
 
 *' Certainly, as confirming the position of the north magne- 
 tic pole, and as contributing to our little stock of magnetic 
 knowledge, which Hanstein and others are still assiduously 
 pursuing." 
 
 The examination of Mr. Children, one of the Secretaries of 
 the Royal Society, is highly interesting and important, as 
 far as it concerns the great question of the position of the 
 magnetic pole. 
 
 Mr. Children is asked, " Are you of opinion, from what 
 you know of Captain Ross's discoveries in the last voyage, 
 that the expedition has been productive of important advan- 
 tages to science ?" 
 
 " I think it has, by Commander Ross having clearly 
 ascertained the position of the north magnetic pole ; I think 
 that there is a singular coincidence in the spot, which he 
 has determined by experiments, to be the true position of 
 the magnetic pole, and that inferred from philosophical con- 
 siderations, by Professor Barlov7. Professor Barlow publish- 
 ed a paper in the last volume of the Philosophical Transac- 
 tions on magnetic lines of equal variation ; at the conclusion 
 of that paper he says, that, to which I will beg the attention 
 of the committee : it will perhaps put in a stronger Hght the 
 
^5^ HOSs'a SECOND VOYAfJE 
 
 importance of that discovery, than any thing I can say. It 
 is a postscript to Mr. Barlow's paper, on the present situation 
 of the magnetic lines and reads thus. * Since this paper 
 was read, and the globe and chart referred to in this article were 
 drawn, Captain Ross has returned from his long and adven- 
 turous voyage. It will be seen, bya reference to the polar chart, 
 that although I was enabled to lay down the curvesof equal 
 variation, to within a few degrees Of their point of concur- 
 rence, yet they all terminated before arriving at it, for want 
 of sufficient data. 'I hcse are now supplied, and it is very 
 gratifying to me, as I hope it may be also to Captain Ross 
 and to Commander James Ross, to find, that the very spot, iu 
 which they have found the needle perpendicular, that is, the 
 pole itself, is precisely that point on my globe and chart, iii 
 which, by supposing all the lines to meet, the several curves 
 would best preserve their unity of character, both separately 
 and conjointly as a system.' The importance as it strikes 
 me of their coincidence, is this, it is clearly of very great im- 
 portance to navigation, to know what the variation of the 
 needle is in every part, and the lines of equal variation which 
 Professor Barlow has laid down, will be in that respect ex- 
 tremely important, if they be true; their coincidence with 
 the actual observations of Commander James Ross, must 
 necessarily give a great confidence in them." 
 
 By the beginning of November the ice in the bay was above 
 a foot in thickness, and the men were employed some time in 
 keeping the groove open, for they expected the ice would pai't 
 as it was all in motion on the outside of the bay ; and far 
 away to the north a considerable extent of clear water was to 
 be seen. The harbour itself was nearly surrounded with very 
 high land, except at the mouth and the head, where there 
 was a very long lake, called Lake Landon, and at the further 
 end a high hill, to the south-west, at the base of which is the 
 salt water. The whole distance from the ship in a straight 
 line being only about three miles, whereas to take a circuitous 
 route of the same land to the Salt Water Bay at the head of 
 Lake Landon, would not be less than from twelve to fifteen ; 
 
Xij THE nohth pole. 953 
 
 in fact, the whole of Prince Reji^enl's Inlet, from Felix Har- 
 bour to Awatootooak Bay, is distinguished by some very deep 
 bays, and a long continuance of low land, and at the fur- 
 thermost extremity is studded with islands. It was at the 
 head of A watootooak Bay that they conjectured a passage might 
 be found, and it was wiih this expectation that Commander 
 Koss visited it in 1830 — 31, but the fact was then ascertained 
 that no passage existed in tliat part of the inlet. 
 
 They now commenced watering the ship, and after she was 
 stripped and all the materials got on shore, the anchors were 
 fixed on shore, and the cables put to them, by which means 
 the chain led to the ship over the ice, a precaution that was 
 greatly necessary, in case she should be got out at any time du- 
 ring the winter. Part of the housing was got over the ship, 
 and was soon blown away again ; but it was speedily repaired, 
 and by the middle of November it was entirely completed ; 
 the decks were covered with snow, the ship banked round, 
 and by the beginning of December she was complete in her 
 winter trim. 
 
 As the abandonment of the ship was determined upon, the 
 further preservation of the live animals on board became a 
 matter of serious consideration ; the number of dogs were in- 
 deed reduced to a very small number, as, on the last expedi- 
 tion of Commander Ross to the head of the bay, he had been 
 obliged to shoot several of them as food lor the remainder ; 
 but the survivors, as also all on board the vessel, soon after 
 met their death, which, it was discovered, was occasioned by 
 their licking the pi|)es belonging to the engine, the poisonous 
 corrosions of which caused almost instantaneous death ; and 
 thus, as far as the Victory was concerned, the canine species 
 was extinct. 
 
 The ship now wore a dreary and dismal appearance, and 
 which perfectly coincided with the spirits of its inmates, who 
 were now lobt to every hope of ever attaining the great ob- 
 iect they had in view, for which they had endured every 
 hardship, and undergone a series of privations, which, per- 
 haps, only the heart of a British sailor could bear ; and faint 
 
954 Ross's SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 indeed were now their hopes of ever reaching their native 
 country ; nor could they entertain the shghtest expectation 
 from any fortuitous event, as they well knew that the whaling 
 ships seldom or never entered Lancaster Sound. They had 
 now before them the dismal prospect of a long and harassing 
 journey, before they could expect to reach those quarters fre- 
 quented by the whalers; but, if they should not succeed in 
 finding the provisions safe at Fury Beach, a death by actual 
 starvation, seemed to them to be the inevitable lot of all the 
 crew of the Victory. 
 
 At the commencement of the year 1832, the carpenter was 
 employed in making six sledges, four of large dimensions, for 
 the purpose of carrying the two boats, the other two rather 
 smaller, for the conveyance of provisions. About this time> 
 James Dixon, a landsman, died ; but so great was the diffi- 
 culty which the crew experienced in penetrating the ground^ 
 that it was a week before they could dig a grave sufficient to 
 contain his body, and whom it was ordained, was to sleep his 
 eternal sleep in nature's dreariest solitude. 
 
 The boats and sledges were completed about the beginning 
 of April ; and preparations were then made to take their de- 
 parture. They then cut the launch out of the ice, and hove it 
 on shore, and on the 7th, they succeeded in getting all the 
 travelling things in readiness. On the 19th they started with 
 the two boats on the sledges, and after they had taken them 
 about a mile, they returned on board to dine ; at two o clock 
 they again started, and succeeded in getting them over the 
 lakes on the salt water, about three miles and a half from the 
 ship, and in the evening the men returned on board to sleep, 
 intending to renew their journey on the following morning; 
 but the weather proved so very unfavourable, that they were 
 compelled to defer it. 
 
 They found the difficulty of getting the boats through the 
 country to be far greater and more harassing than they had 
 expected, having frequently to drag them over very heavy ice, 
 lakes, hills, and vallies ; a task which they had great difficul- 
 ty in accomplishing; being frequently occupied a whole day 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 955 
 
 in getting one boat a quarter of a mile, with the united strength 
 of the whole party ; and afterwards sleeping in their snow- 
 houses with the thermometer at times 30 degrees below zero. 
 The manner in which their snow houses were built was as 
 follows : the walls were made of square pieces of snow, cut 
 with a cutlass and spade, so that some of the slabs were as 
 large as three feet by two ; some larger and some smaller, ac- 
 cording as they could be cut ; there were four sides to the 
 house, (but as they found it necessary to have two houses, they 
 built them close together, so that the middle wall was a par- 
 tition between them) the walls were built about five or six 
 feet high ; on which were laid two boat oars, and a sail was 
 spread over the top. Lumps of snow were put on the sail to 
 prevent its being blown away. Their bedding during the 
 first part of their journey, was made of deer skins, the lower 
 part of which was like a bag, coming a little above the hip, the 
 other part covering the head. 
 
 On Friday, the 27th, the men left their huts about eight, 
 and having taken the boat and sledge for a short distance, ad- 
 vanced with them singly for about two miles ; but they found 
 their labour to increase considerably, on account of the tre- 
 mendous drifts of snow which had been thrown up bv the 
 gale of the preceding day, and which they were not able to 
 cut through; in consequence, they were frequently compelled 
 to take a circuitous route, travelling up to their knees in snow, 
 whilst some were employed in clearing it away, to enable the 
 sledge to pass through : but in spite of such obstacles, they 
 succeeded in travelling the distance of about seven miles. 
 
 On the 28th, the whole party set out at eight o'clock for 
 the boat that was astern, and got up to her by ten ; and by 
 four o'clock in the afternoon, they had succeeded in getting 
 her up to the other boats, but violent gales from the north set 
 in, accompanied with heavy drifts of snow, which made them 
 fearful lest they should be obliged to pass another miserable 
 day in their snow houses, which they had such reasons to dread. 
 On the following day the wind continuing to blow with such 
 violence, the men determined upon returning to the ship ; one 
 
9o6 Ross's SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 of the boats was left on the land, and the other on tlie ice ; 
 and in the afternoon they set out on their return, and at half 
 past four in the afternoon, reached the huts M'hich they had 
 formerly inhabited. Having only one sledge with them, they 
 were enabled to travel at rather a quick pace ; and at eleven 
 on the following morning, arrived at the ship, after having 
 walked about twelve miles. After they had partaken of some 
 refreshment, the whole of the party retired to rest, and sound 
 was their sleep, having been for a whole week total strangers to 
 one hour of comfortable repose; being obliged to be huddled 
 together in a corner of a snow hut, with the new fallen snow 
 for their bed. During the absence of these men from the ship, 
 those on board were employed in baking biscuits, and making 
 other provisions, to be in readiness for the final departure of the 
 crew from the vessel. The beginning of May was prmcipally 
 occupied in getting the provisions out of the hold upon deck, 
 and making bags to contain the bread and biscuits. 
 
 On the 19th of May, 1832, at seven o'clock in the morning, 
 the whole of the crew took their final leave of the Victory; 
 and even down the cheeks of some of the hardy weather- 
 beaten mariners, tears were seen to fall, as they stood upon the 
 beach, waving their hats, and giving three cheers of *' Good 
 bye Victory.'' A glass of Booth's cordial had been given to 
 each man previous to their departure from the vessel^ which 
 united with the cheering thought that they were homeward 
 bound, gave a temporary animation to their spirits, and recon- 
 ciled them to losses with which the abandonment of the vessel 
 was accompanied. Each man was allowed a blanket (sewed up 
 in the shape of of a hop sack, the weight of which did not ex- 
 ceed seven pounds) two shirts, (both in wear at the same 
 time) three pair of hose ; two pairs of drawers, and two pair of 
 trowsers, with' the jacket and waistcoat in wear, so that the 
 whole weight did not exceed ten pounds. 
 
 They had not been more than three days from the ship, be- 
 fore both officers and men were compelled to go on the scanty al- 
 lowance of two thirds of a pound of bread per day, and lialf a 
 pound of meat. The crew were about five days before they 
 were enabled to reach the place where the boats had boen left ; 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 9^T 
 
 no time was then lost in proceeding with them, and they suc- 
 ceeded in draggin^T them eight miles farther; but the travel- 
 ling increased in difficulty, in consequence of the ice forming 
 a complete barrier, that it was determined to leave the boats, 
 and proceed with the sledges, three in number to Fury Beach, 
 'iiie place where they left the boats was called Good Harbour, 
 at which they buried a considerable quantity of provisions, in 
 the event of their being obliged to return to them in the fol- 
 lowing August or September ; for they considered that it was 
 running a great hazard in proceeding to Fury Beach, with 
 the great uncertainty existing, that any provisions or any thing 
 else, were to be found there, as it was three years since the 
 Victory last visited it. 
 
 They travelled for four days with very little progress, the 
 land being very low and swampy. It was, under these cir- 
 cumstances, considered advisable to send a party in advance 
 to Fury Beach, ibr the express purpose of ascertaining the 
 state of the provisions ; and after having made a full exami- 
 nation of them, they were to return to the main body, who 
 were still to keep on pursuing their course, with all the ex- 
 pedition which the peculiar situation of the country would ad- 
 mit of. 
 
 Commander Ross, accompanied by Abernethy and Park, 
 set off in a light trumbogan (a small kind of sledge) with the 
 hearty wishes of the whole crew, who gave three cheers for 
 success on their departure, and before nightfall they were out 
 of sight. 
 
 After Commander Ross had been absent eleven days, from 
 the main body, they began to feel the greatest anxiety for his 
 return. The stock of provisions were nearly exhausted, and 
 great fears entertained, if they did not receive tidings of 
 Commander Ross, of their being compelled to retrace their 
 steps to the place where they had left the boats, if it were only 
 to take advantage of the provisions which were buried un- 
 der them. Often were they tantalized with the sight of ducks 
 and other aquatic fowls, which came within gun-shot of them ; 
 but had they killed them, no use eould be made of them, as 
 
 P. V. 41. 6G 
 
958 Ross's SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 an article of food, from t.he want of fuel to cook them. But 
 at the latter end of the journey a few were killed, and carried 
 to Fury Beach, where they formed a most dainty meal. 
 
 On the 24th of June, whilst the main body were travelling 
 on the ice, about a mile and a half from the land, they espied 
 ('ommander Ross, and his companions, with the union jack 
 flying on a boarding pike, which imported the joyful intelli- 
 gence that the stores were quite safe on Fury Beach. 'J^he 
 feelings of joy which pervaded the whole of the crew may be 
 imagined, but cannot be described, when Commander Ross 
 appeared in sight; but how greatly was that joy increased 
 when he arrived and imparted to them the additional pleasing 
 intelligence that the stores of the Fury were still on the Beach. 
 The distance to Fury Beach, from the place where Comman- 
 der Ross fell in with the main body, was only four days jour- 
 ney ; and he also stated, that on the following day they would 
 fall in with a monument, from which the Beach could be dis- 
 tinctly seen. Although it was the month of June, Com- 
 mander Ross had experienced some very severe weather, the 
 thermometer standing in the sun at noon day, sometimes at 
 40 degrees, and at others at 10 degrees, above zero, and in the 
 night 10 degrees below. 
 
 When Commander Ross and his companions started for 
 Fury Beach, they were on the same allowance as the main 
 body ; but, on their arrival at the Beach, they were not limit- 
 ed as to pro-'^isions ; and on the two parties meeting, they had 
 with them forty pounds of bread, and the same weight of pre- 
 served meats, which they shared amongst their messmates. 
 
 After the whole of the party had experienced the greatest 
 fatigue imaginable, they at length arrived at Possession Place, 
 of which, in the year 1829, Captain Ross, Commander Ross, 
 Mr. M'Diarmid, and Mr. Thom, had taken formal possession. 
 After travelling three or four days, the party reached the 
 other side of the bay, and in a few days afterwards they ar- 
 rived at Fury beach. On travelling along the coast to Fury 
 Beach, which is called North Somerset, a party went to the 
 
TO THE NORTH POLK. 959 
 
 highest hill, and there found some cockle shells in a state of 
 petrifaction. 
 
 Great joy was evinced by the whole of the party, upon 
 their safe arrival at Fury Beach, on the 1st of July, having 
 been thirty-one days travelling from the ship, the distance in 
 a straight line being about one hundred and eighty miles, but 
 the distance by the route which they were compelled to take, 
 Gould not have been less than two hundred and fifty miles. 
 
 The men were now allowed three meals a day, indepen- 
 dent of cocoa and lime juice. The crew were first employ- 
 ed in getting in order the sails, spars, and cordage, which 
 were on the beach ; the boats were hauled upi for the car- 
 penter to make the necessary repairs. ]\Ir. Thom and a part 
 of the crew, were employed in separating the preserved meats 
 from the soups and vegetables ; while Captain Ross, with 
 some others of the crew, were laying some of the heaviest of 
 the spars, for the purpose of constructing a temporary house ; 
 the topsails and courses being used as a covering. They suc- 
 ceeded, in about eight or ten days, to build a house thirty feet 
 long and sixteen feet broad, the position of which was, as near 
 as could be, north- north-east and south-south-west, the door 
 fronting the eastward. The interior was divided, leavinsr a 
 place for the officers, which consisted of a bed place for each 
 and a mess-berth ; and as soon as the house was finished, it 
 was regularly taken possession of by the respective crews. 
 As a stimulus to the exertions of the men, each crew had to 
 fit out their own boat, by which it became a great trial of emu- 
 lation amongst them, as to which boat should be first got 
 ready for sea. 
 
 On the 23rd of July, the ice made a move on Fur}' 
 Beach, and by the 27th, they had a very fair prospect of 
 getting down the inlet, as clear water appeared as far as the 
 eye could reach ; but, on account of the boats not being in 
 readiness, they were compelled to remain till the 1st of Au- 
 gust; when they took their departure from Fury Beach, with 
 three cheers for their future success, each boat having on 
 board a sufficiency of provisions for six weeks ; and after 
 
990 Ross's SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 nine hours hard labour they succeeded in getting five miles, 
 when they unloaded the three boats, and hauled them on the 
 ice, some distance towards the shore. The place where they 
 pitched their tents, was the same where the Fury got her 
 squeeze, and the Hecla v^^as on shore- 
 On the following day, they resumed therr voyage, and 
 wherever there was any opening, they in general took the 
 benefit of it ; but severe indeed was the loading and unload- 
 ing the boats every time ; and, in some instances, after 
 launching the boats, they could not make a greater progress 
 than forty yards, before they were again compelled to haul 
 the boats over very irregular ice. 
 
 On the 17th they reached Cascade Beach, so called from a 
 strong stream of water that runs into the sea, a distance only 
 of about sixteen miles from Fury Beach ; at which place they 
 found the sea uncommonly heavy, with a strong pressure. 
 They were obliged to remain there for some days, their stock 
 of provisons fast decreasing, and the men on three-fourths 
 allowance. The ice remained quite stationary till the 23rd, 
 when, on a sudden, the wind began to blow from the north- 
 ward, and the westward, and drove the ice off to the south- 
 ward, from which, to all appearances, there was clear water 
 for a boat to proceed to Fury Beach^ for a fresh supply of 
 provisions. It was then agreed that the most able bodied 
 men should be picked out, for the purpose of making a good 
 boat's crew, and attempt to reach Fury Beach. Accordingly 
 seven of the ablest men set off in a boat, and having a fair 
 wind in their favour, they arrived at the Beach in less than 
 three hours. On their return, however, they were detained 
 very much b}? the ice* nor could they, after using their ut- 
 most exertions, reach the place where the boats were, by two 
 miles ; in consequence of which, they were obliged to get the 
 boat on shore under shelter, as the ice pressed in with such 
 an overpowering force, as to render all navigation wholly im- 
 possible. A messenger was from thence dispatched to Cap- 
 tain Ross, to inform him of the arrival of the boat, and to 
 •nquire what was most advisable to be done ; upon which he 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 9C1 
 
 ordered all hands to proceed immediately to the place where 
 the boat was, and bring the provisions to Cascade Beach ; 
 but it was not until the spring tides set in that any prospect 
 presented itself of getting the boat, that had been to Fury 
 Beach, up to Cascade Beach, and then they were obliged to 
 track it inside the heavy bergs which were lying aground. 
 
 Duiing the time that they remained at Cascade Beach, 
 which was nearly a month, the whole of the crew kept a 
 sharp look out for any thing that might add to their scanty 
 allowance of provisions, on which it was found they were 
 compelled to be put ; but even the very animals seemed to 
 shun a spot, where naught but desolation reigned in undis- 
 turbed sovereignty ; on the spot where the Victory was aban- 
 doned, the sportsman seldom penetrated the country witliout 
 being amply rewarded for his exertions by an abundance of 
 game and other indigenous birds, but a whole day might be 
 spent in the vicinity of Cascade Beach, without even obtaining 
 a single bird. The chief motives of the men who often as- 
 cended the hills, were to look out for clear water, and where 
 they frequently amused themselves with erecting monuments 
 of stones, which, until corroded by time, will very probably 
 stand as the only and last memorial of the country, having 
 been visited by human beings, who first broke the silence of 
 its solitude, and stood on the summits of its hills, as if they 
 were the last remnants of humanity. 
 
 The whole of the game shot during their stay at Cascade 
 Beach, was three hares ; there was, therefore, one to each 
 boat, of which a sea pie was made, much to the gratification 
 of the crew, who had not tasted of fresh meat for some time 
 past. I'hey also succeeded in shooting some dovekies, a 
 bird which is very numerous in that part of the country, 
 having its residence in the crevices of the rocks, the usual 
 weight of which is about twelve ounces ; they are far more 
 numerous to the northward, but owing to the long detention 
 of the party at Cascade Beach, they had nearly all flown ; so 
 that very few could be shot by the party. 
 
 After some time they succeeded in getting down, on the 
 
96S Ross's SECOKD VOYAGE 
 
 other side of Batty Bay, but, as they were crossing it, a stroni^ 
 breeze sprung up, from which Captain Ross's boat took the 
 sea in at such a rate, that it was soon half filled with water ; 
 the foresail was immediately hauled down, and a place made, 
 both fore and aft, for the purpose of bailing the water out 
 which was up to their knees. 
 
 They then proceeded to what was called Tamarind Beach, 
 so named on account of a cask of tamarinds being left there ; 
 but early in the morning they took their departure, and 
 arrived the same night at Monument Beach, which is the ex- 
 treme north-east point of the inlet, named after a monument 
 that had been erected by some of the crew ; but which, like 
 the principal part of them, there is every probability, will 
 never more be seen by human beings. Immediately on their 
 arrival there, some of the crew went to the highest hill with a 
 telescope to take a survey of the ice, but which appeared 
 quite stationary in the direction which they had intended to 
 take ; and every day they anxiously looked, though in vain, 
 "with the hopes of being able to discover a passage across the 
 inlet. Captain Ross was of opinion that the ice had not been 
 broken up that year in Lancaster Sound, although many 
 thought otherwise ; as it was the opinion of some that Com- 
 mander Ross might succeed in finding his way over the ice, it 
 was proposed that he and a party should take a certain 
 quantity of provisions out of each boat, and attempt to ob- 
 tain a passage, to which he expressed his willingness, if it was 
 the general opinion that any possible benefit could be derived 
 therefrom ; but a decided objection was raised by Captain 
 Ross, as he felt fully convinced, from circumstances which 
 presented themselves, that no beneficial results could arise 
 from an experiment so dangerous, and hazardous, and th;jt 
 therefore they must give up the effort for this season. 
 
 The anxiety and suspense that now pressed upon every 
 mind, may be easier imagined than described ; the young ice 
 had already assumed an alarming thickness, and the frost of 
 ojie night might so block up the passage to the southward, 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 963 
 
 that even the return to Fury Beach, would be found imprac- 
 ticable. 
 
 During their stay at Monument Beach, which may be con- 
 sidered a part of Leopold South Island, in about the latitude 
 of 73 degrees 56 minutes, and longitude QO degrees west, 
 some slight symptoms of the scurvy appeared, and the n)en 
 were, therefore, allowed to take daily excursions on shore, 
 during which they succeeded in killing some foxes, all of 
 which were eaten by the crew. Two hares were also seen, 
 but beyond the reach of a gun. The foxes, as well as 
 the hares, were all white. The aurora borealis was visible 
 almost every night, by the light of which they were enabled, 
 on some occasions, to extend their journeys, which would 
 not otherwise have been practicable amidst th? darkness of 
 the northern latitudes. The view which the crew had from 
 the promontory of Leopold South Island, is represented to 
 have been desolation in the extreme. A dead and disheart- 
 ening silence here reigned around them, broken only at in- 
 tervals by the sound of their own voices, or the deep howl of 
 the solitary bear, prowling on the ice in quest of its prey ; a 
 scene by no means calculated, to raise the spirits of the des- 
 ponding crew. 
 
 They Avere prevented from taking their departure from 
 Monument Beach until the 23rd of September, when they 
 made a move out to the eastward, and bored the boats into 
 the young ice ; but which so soon became thick, as to ren- 
 der it a task of the greatest difficulty to get them out 
 again. This occurred in their attempting to reach the oppo- 
 site shore, a distance of about forty-five miles. They w^ere 
 now compelled to put back to Monument Beach, which they 
 succeeded in gaining, but, as the season was fast advancing, 
 and their provisions nearly exhausted, they were obliged to 
 reduce their allowance to little more than two-thirds of a 
 pound of bread and meat a day. But fortunately, the wind 
 soon after springing up trom the northward, and clearing the 
 inlet to the southward, they immediately embraced the first 
 opportunity that presented itself of endeavouring to find tJuir 
 
904 Ross's SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 way back to Fury Beach ; they began, however, under verv 
 discouraging circumstances, for the young ice was making so 
 rapidly, that the men were obhged to keep the boats in a 
 rolling motion, to prevent the ice from closing in upon them, 
 and literally choaking them up ; at which time the men had 
 no other clothing than what they stood upright in, and their 
 whole covering at night consisted of a blanket, made in the 
 shape of a sack, into vv^hich they crawled, and then drew the 
 open ends over their faces. Their chief object in making 
 these bags was, that it secured their feet from the cold, and 
 prevented their being frozen. The method in which the 
 men slept, was as follows : — Three trenches were dug in the 
 snow, each capable of holding seven men, a covering of can- 
 vass was thrown over the trenches, and a laver of snow over 
 the canvass ; they then got into their blanket bags, and hud- 
 dled close together for the benefit of the reciprocal heat, 
 Inhere was an officer in each trench, viz. Captain Ross, Com- 
 mander Ross, and Mr. Thom. The blankets of the officers 
 were lined with skin ; but it is scarcely possible to form an 
 idea of the misery and wretchedness which they all endured 
 in their dormitories ; the frozen snow was their bed, and the 
 cold to which they were exposed, was, at one time, 64 de- 
 grees below the freezing point of Fahrenheit ; but after en- 
 countering many severe hardships from the treacherous state 
 of the weather, they succeeded in getting eighteen miles to the 
 southward, and were then obliged to haul the boats on shore, 
 on account of the young ice making so rapidly, and the conse- 
 quent danger incurred of having them frozen in. They 
 remained two days there, during which time they shot two 
 foxes, which were eaten by the crew, as well as an old rook, 
 forming altogether, under their present circumstances, a 
 dainty meal ; but which, in their own country, would have 
 been rejected by them with disgust. 
 
 They were now enabled, on account of the ice opening a 
 little, to make some further progress ; and after being exposed 
 to the most imminent danger, they succeeded m reaching Bat- 
 ty Bay by the 1st of October ; at which place they Rjund 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 965 
 
 their progress completely impeded by the young ice, and they 
 feared that they would be obliged to abandon all further hopes 
 of reaching Fury Beach by the boats. In such a situation, 
 they were obliged to pitch their tents upon the ice, not being 
 able to reack-the shore, although the distance was not more 
 ^han two miles. The cold was so intense, that Barney Lacny 
 lost the tops of his fingers, whilst rolling an empty bread 
 cask on shore, having no mittens on at the time ; and there 
 was scarcely one who was not frost-bitten in some part of his 
 extremities. 
 
 Under these adverse circumstances, a consultation was held 
 between Captain and Commander Ross, as to the steps which 
 should be taken with the boats, as well as the measures which 
 were to be adopted to secure their safe return to Fury Beach. 
 It was, however, ultimately agreed, that, considering the rapid 
 growth of the young ice, and the impossibility of reaching 
 Fury Beach in the boats, that no time should be lost in the 
 unloading of them, and afterwards hauling them over the ice 
 on shore, where they might remain housed over until the 
 breaking up of the ice, when they would be able to make 
 another attempt to reach those parts that were frequented by 
 the whaling ships. 
 
 'i'hey soon commenced the task of unloading the boats; but 
 they found the labour to be very great, being obliged to car- 
 ry every article separately over the ice, (some of which were 
 very heavy and cumbersome,) to a distance of above two miles, 
 being exposed the whole time to an intensity of cold which it 
 was thought scarcely possible for the human constitution to 
 endure. 
 
 On the 2.nd of October they commenced hauling the boats 
 on shore, all hands being engaged at one boat. They suc- 
 ceeded with the greatest difficulty, in dragging her about half- 
 way when the ice suddenly gave way under her. Every endea- 
 vour was then made to get her out again, but as fast as they haul- 
 ed her on the ice, it broke in again, and they had fears that dark- 
 ness would close in upon them before they had got her clear, by 
 which considerable risk would be run of ever being able to ex- 
 
 P. V. 41. 6 II 
 
1)66 ROSSES SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 tricate her ; as, by the following morning, she might be so fro* 
 zen in, as to render it impossible to move her. Under such a di- 
 lemma, they adopted the expedient of putting aboat'*s mast un- 
 der her bows; and then, applying the whole of the strength, they 
 succeeded, with a sudden jerk, in bringing her upon the ice. 
 I'hey had not however, proceeded far, before the boat again 
 broke in ; but, by adopting the previous method, they soon 
 extricated her ; and the ice becoming stronger, as they ap- 
 proached the shore, they at last succeeded in landing her, and 
 placed her about thirty feet above high water mark. They 
 then returned for the other two boats, and experienced the 
 same difficulty before they were enabled to transport them to 
 the beach, and after they had secured the boats, the dangers 
 they had undergone were soon forgotten. 
 
 There being no prospect of conveying the things by means 
 of the boats to Fury Beach, Captain Ross ordered the carpen- 
 ter to break up three of the bread casks, and make from them 
 some sledges, whereon they might be able to carry the stores, 
 provisions, &c. to Fury Beach. During the time that the 
 carpenter was thus employed, the crew were busy in housing 
 over the boats, and rendering them secure, until the following 
 year, which was effected by fastening them with their own 
 anchors, and putting stones and other heavy articles over them, 
 and then covering the whole M'ith a layer of snow. 
 
 Previous to their leaving Batty Bay, two pounds ten ounces 
 of biscuit were served out to each man, and this scanty allow- 
 ance was to last theai till they arrived at Fury Beach, howe- 
 ver tempestuous the weather might be, and however long they 
 might be detained on their journey. 
 
 On the 4th of October they took their departure ; the dis- 
 tance from Batty Bay to Fury Beach being thirty-six miles, 
 but it was rendered greater, on account of their having to go 
 round two bights, where they expected that the travelling 
 would be attended with the greatest difficulty, on account of 
 the hummocks of ice which were so numerous ; and the pas- 
 sage in many places appeared to be completely blocked up. 
 They had not travelled more than two miles before they were 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 967 
 
 obliged to unload the sledges, in order to render tliem lighter, 
 as the road was not passable for them in the loaded state in 
 which they left Batty Bay. The things that were taken out 
 of the sledges were left on the beach, with the ulterior view 
 of returning for them when they arrived at Fury Beach. 
 During the time that the sledges were unloading and being 
 repaired, the remainder of the crew were employed in fixing 
 the tents on shore, in which the whole party remained for tlie 
 night. Early on the following morning they again renewed 
 their journey, having left behind them two chests, containing 
 instruments, &c., one tent, and several other articles, which 
 they could most easily dispense with. After having advan- 
 ced ten miles, they again pitched their tents ; and the men>, 
 worn out with fatigue and hunger, consumed thoir miserable 
 allowance, without any liquid to moisten it, except a lump of 
 ice, which they put into their mouths to melt. On the fourth 
 day after leaving Batty Bay, they arrived at Fury Beach, and 
 found that, in their absence, the foxes had taken possession of 
 their house, but they immediately decamped as soon as the 
 crew presented themselves. 
 
 On the following morning the wind began to blow very hard^ 
 and continued with undiminished violence until the \3[\\. Du- 
 ring the interval of the oth to the 13th, the men were employ- 
 ed in repairing the house, and building a snow wall round it, 
 above nine feet thick. In the erection of v^^hich considerable 
 inconvenience was experienced from the want of water, as they 
 could not spare any fuel with which to melt the snow ; but 
 they found it to be utterly impracticable to build the wall in a 
 solid manner without water, which, being immediately frozen 
 on its application, served the purpose of mortar in the adhe- 
 sion of the slabs of snow, and also closed up any interstices 
 which might be left, through which the exterior atmosphere 
 could penetrate. In this dilemma, they had no other alterna- 
 tive, than to have recourse to their own urine, for the pre- 
 servation of which, a cask was kept in the house, and with this 
 liquid the wall was completed. 
 
 The engineer was then employed in building an oven fop 
 
968 boss's second voyage 
 
 baking bread, they having obtained an ample supply of flour 
 from the stores of the Fury ; the scanty stock of biscuits 
 which they had brought from the Victory being nearly 
 exhausted. 
 
 Preparations were then made for the equipment of a travel- 
 ling party, for the purpose of fetching the things which had 
 been left at the first station, about four miles from Batty Bay. 
 Fourteen men were all that could be spared from the crew, 
 the remainder being disabled by illness, partly arising from 
 the scurvy and partly from the loss of the use of their limbs 
 occasioned by the intensity of the frost. 
 
 The most valuable acquisition obtained by the crew, by the 
 transportation of the stores from Batty Bay, was one of the 
 stoves which had been brought from the Victory. There were 
 originally three stoves, one to each boat ; one of them was 
 brought away when they took their departure from Batty Bay ; 
 the crew had now brought another, and the third was left un- 
 der the boats at the place just mentioned. They had now a 
 stove for the officer's room or cabin, as it was called, and one 
 for the berth of the seamen; and there being no scarcity of 
 funnelling, the engineer was set to work so to distribute the 
 funnels, that the warm air might be diffused through every 
 part of the house. 
 
 The last time that the sun was visible was on the 14th of 
 November, on which d^y the thermometer stood at 32 degrees 
 below zero, or 64 degrees below the freezing point of Fah- 
 renheit. 
 
 By the 1st of December the house began to assume the 
 appearance of an inhabited establishment : — the bed places 
 were completed ; the oven, which the engineer had made 
 from the copper belonging to the Fury, and constructed on 
 Slater's principle, was put up ; a mess-table was run along the 
 middle part of the house ; four bed-places were made for the 
 officers ; and a table in the middle part, so that, from the 
 officers* mess berth, each door opened to their respective 
 cabin. The stove was placed at the front of the table, the 
 funnelling was carried under it, and thence to the outside of 
 
TO THE NORTH FOLE, 969 
 
 the house. Two out-houses were built on the outside of the 
 house; one for the reception of the lumber, and the other as 
 a snow-house, which was regularly filled with snow, whenever 
 the weather would permit. 
 
 The general state of the health of the crew was, however, 
 of a very unfavourable and serious nature ; for John Wood, 
 Anthony Buck, (the blind man,) and Thomas, were very 
 ill of the scurvy ; Henry Ayre, the cook, afflicted with the 
 rheumatism ; Barney Lachey, with the loss of the tops of two 
 of his fingers, having been frost-bitten at Batty Bay ; and 
 last on the list was George I'aylor, who was again frost- 
 bitten in travelling from Batty Bay to Fury Beach ; but who, 
 nevertheless, continued to hobble along, receiving every as- 
 sistance from his comrades which it was in their power to 
 bestow. 
 
 They succeeded in killing a considerable number of foxes 
 during the winter, and almost every Sunday the officers had 
 one for their dinner ; and on Christmas-day there were four 
 baked, which afforded a sumptuous dinner for officers and 
 men. At the commencement of the year 1833, the men were 
 confined to the house, in consequence of the strong northerly 
 gales, which prevailed at that time, accompanied with heavy 
 drift, and which tended greatly to protract the recovery of 
 the sick. The duty imposed upon the men was very trifling, 
 they being only required to take exercise whenever the 
 weather would permit, and their principal labour consisted in 
 carrying snow to the house, fitted up as its receptacle. 
 
 On the 2nd of February they experienced the most inde- 
 scribable satisfaction of again beholding the sun, after an ab- 
 sence of eighty days, but which only showed them a glimpse 
 of its beauty, and then disappeared from their sight ; it was 
 to them the harbinger of brighter days, and the light that 
 was to guide them on their perilous journey to their native 
 country. On the 7th, greatly to the astonishment of the 
 whole crew, two rein-deer made their appearance at some dis- 
 tance from the beach. Such a circumstance had never be- 
 fore been known to occur before the latter end of March, or 
 
970 Ross's SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 the beginning of April ; and, to be thoroughly convinced 
 that they were actually rein-deer. Commander Ross and 
 Abernethy went in pursuit of them ; but the day- light being 
 of so short a duration, they were soon obliged to give up the 
 chase, not, however, till they had ascertained, by the marks 
 of their feet on the snow, that the animals which they had 
 seen, were in reality rein-deer. 
 
 On the 8th of February, Chimham Thomas, the carpenter, 
 died, greatly regretted by all his fellow sufferers, who lost 
 in him a most valuable acquisition in the way of trade, for 
 his services were invaluable ; and although an able substitute 
 was left in Robert Shreeve, still the loss of one man at such 
 an important time, was of the most serious consequence, and 
 especially one whose skill was so universally acknowledged. 
 The day after his death he viras sewed up in his blanket, and 
 put into the snow-house, but before be was removed 
 from his bed-place, he was as hard as a rock. He was obliged 
 to be kept in the snow house several days before he could be 
 buried, the weather being so severe, that the men had great 
 diflBculty in penetrating the earth; and after labouring with 
 almost incessant toil till the 16th, they could only succeed in 
 digging a grave of about a foot in depth ; and on the same 
 day he was buried the whole of the crew that were able, fol- 
 lowed, vt^ith all the solemnity that the scene required ; thus, 
 paying the last tribute of regard, for one who had so man- 
 fully shared their misfortunes and privations ; altogether it 
 v^^as a scene calculated to depress the most glowing spirits. 
 Captain Ross led the funeral procession, and read the burial 
 service. After the corpse was interred they erected a monu- 
 ment over the top of the grave, vs^ith a piece of wood in the 
 middle, and a small plate of copper nailed to it, with his 
 name, age, and trade, engraved upon it, according to the 
 best manner of the engineer. 
 
 The crew were now reduced to twenty, and they were in 
 daily expectation of losing Buck and Wood, whose constitu- 
 tions were unable to endure the continual fatigue and hard- 
 ships to which they had lately been exposed, and which had 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 971 
 
 been more trying and severe than had ever been experienced 
 at any previous part of the voyage. 
 
 An the day-light increased, the officers and some of the 
 crew went on shooting excursions, and, on one occasion, they 
 shot two bears, and saw a wolf at which they fired, and severe- 
 ly wounded him, but he contrived to make his escape. Com- 
 mander Ross followed him a considerable distance by the 
 track of his blood, but the day light closing upon him, he 
 was obHged to relinquish his pursuit. 
 
 In the beginning of April, they began to make great pre- 
 parations for their final departure. Some of the bread casks 
 were got up to the house, for the purpose of packing the bread, 
 for they found, greatly to their disappointments nd misfortune, 
 a great quantity of bad bread amongst the FuryV stores. Each 
 cask was emptied on a sail, the cask burned out, and the picked 
 bread put into it. All the provisions wiiich they intended to 
 take with them to Batty Bay, were then collected ; which con- 
 sisted of 2500 pounds of bread in casks, and 60 pounds in a 
 bag ; 1400 pounds of preserved meats ; 520 pounds of sugar ; 
 190 pounds of cocoa ; 58 pounds of pea coffee ; nearly half a ton 
 of coals; and 20 gallons of Hme juice, independently of the 
 weight of the cae ks and other articles, all which, upon a close 
 calculation, amounted to seven tons, which had to be dragged 
 down to Batty Bay, a distance of thirty-two miles, over hum- 
 mocks of ice, and hills of snow. They computed that the 
 above quantity would make fourteen sledge loads ; and there 
 being only thirteen working hands, which was barely suffi- 
 cient to drag two sledges, it was found impracticable to take 
 more ; so that after they had travelled eight miles, they were 
 obliged to return immediately, if the weather would permit, 
 with the empty sledges, for the remaining part of the stores ; 
 thus, the men had to travel the distance of fifty-six miles, 
 without being more than eight on their route. This inces- 
 sant fatigue and labour occupied the whole of April, and 
 May, and also the beginning of June. 
 
 They now began to feel considerable anxiety for the safety 
 of the boats which were left at Batty Bay, as their safe deli- 
 
972 ROSS'S SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 verance from those inhospitable and dreary regions, in which 
 they had experienced for four year^, the greatest hardships 
 and sufferings which it is possible for the strongest constitu- 
 tion to bear, chiefly depended upon them ; they therefore 
 considered it advisable to send a party forward to the bay, to 
 ascertain the condition of the boats, before the whole of the 
 provisions were removed from Fury Beach. Accordingly, a 
 party set out, and were rejoiced to find, on their arrival at 
 Batty Bay, that the boats had not suffered much from being 
 exposed to the rigour of the climate ; but they found that 
 the chief part of the provisions had been consumed by the 
 foxes. The animals had selected the boats as their winter 
 quarters, making free with every article wherewith they could 
 satisfy their hunger. They had consumed nearly the whole 
 of the pork and beef; they had also devoured the tops of the 
 steward's sea boots, the leather off the thowl pins, and almost 
 the whole of the tarpaulins; in fact, nothing appeared to 
 have come amiss to their rapacious appetites. 
 
 After enduring great fatigue and labour, they succeeded 
 in getting the whole of the things down to Batty Bay, and 
 placed them alongside of the boats ; they were then covered 
 over with the boats sails, and the beach of Batty Bay, formed 
 every appearance of a second Fury Beach. After they had 
 secured the provisions as effectually as possible, from the de- 
 predations of the foxes, they returned to Fury Beach : upon 
 their arrival, they found Wood, Buck, and Ayre, so extreme- 
 ly ill, as to be totally incapable of enduring the fatigue of 
 travelling ; on account of which, and strongly impressed with 
 the flattering hopes that a beneficial change might soon take 
 place in the health of the poor unhappy sufferers. Captain Ross 
 proposed, to the great satisfaction of all, that their departure 
 from Fury Beach should be deferred for a few days, consi- 
 dering, that by exposing the sick men to the air, in the weak 
 state in which they were, would be unnecessarily endanger- 
 ing their lives, as they had not strength wherewith to take 
 sufficient exercise to put their blood in circulation. In the in- 
 terim, a party should be sent to Garry Bay, where the ducks 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 973 
 
 were known to resort in great numbers, with the flattering hopes 
 of being able to obtain a supply of fresh food for the crew, as 
 also for the nourishment of the nek. Accordingly Comman- 
 der Ross, with a party, set out on a shooting excursion, but 
 found the birds to be very shy ; and after being absent five 
 days, they could only succeed in bringing home twenty king 
 and queen ducks ; but, however, they were partly remune- 
 rated by a supply of dovekies, which they found to be very 
 numerous, and the stock which they were fortunate enough 
 to obtain, furnished the crew with some good materials 
 for sea pies, &c. and which proved a relishing meal, after the 
 diet to which they had been accustomed. 
 
 On the 29th of June the crew returned from Batty Bay, 
 and till their final departure, they were employed in junking 
 up the cable, gathering together the coals, repairing the house, 
 and placing every thing in sucii a safe position, that the}' might 
 be readily got at, in case they should be obliged to return, 
 and pass another dreary winter in their comfortless dwelling. 
 7 hey left as much coals upon the beach as they conjectured 
 would last them another winter ; also thirty casks of flour, 
 each weighing 504 pounds, and twelve casks of 836 pounds ; 
 eleven casks of sugar, each weighing 372 pounds ; a few kegs 
 of lime juice, and a large quantity of parsnips, carrots, soups, 
 &c., but they did not leave a single canister of meat. 
 
 The engineer was also busily employed in making three 
 new stoves for the boats, but on a different plan from those of 
 the Fury, with a view of economizing the fuel and decreasing 
 their weight. The stoves of the Fury weighed, upon an ave- 
 rage, eighty pounds, whereas those which the engineer had 
 constructed, did not weigh more than twenty-two pounds. He 
 also constructed several other things which were necessary for 
 the boats ; and cut up some of the Fury's ice saws, for the 
 purpose of ironing the bottoms of the sledges. Three new 
 sledges, were likewise made, for the purpose of conveying the 
 sick men to Batty Bay ; which were fitted with four uprights 
 and a canvass mat hauled out to each corner, on which the 
 
 P.V. 41. 6 1 
 
974 Ross's SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 sick could be laid ; whereby they would be able to ride in the 
 same manner as if lying in a cot the whole of the journey. 
 
 The party took their final departure from Fury Beach on 
 the 8th of July, and it was not until the 18th that they ar- 
 rived at Batty Bay. On the 25th they crossed Navy Board 
 Jnlet, and on the following day, to their indescribable joy, they 
 descried a ship in the offing, becalmed ; which proved to be the 
 Isabella of Hull, commanded by Captain Humphries. 
 
 The discovery of the Isabella was first made by Comman- 
 der Ross, who however did not at once communicate the news, 
 as he was for a while doubtful of the reality. It was a re- 
 markable coincidence that the ship which saved the adventur- 
 ous party should have been the same which Captain Ross 
 commanded, in his first expedition to the Arctic Seas, in 1818. 
 
 It appears that Captain Humphries took the course he did, 
 for the express purpose of looking for the party ; which he did 
 however, it would seem, rather in the expectation of finding 
 their bones than believing them to be alive ; and in order to 
 induce his crew (which was employed as a whaler) to accom- 
 pany him into that part of the Arctic Sea where they discovered 
 the expedition, he told them they were likely to meet with 
 whales there. He had no instructions from his owners, so to 
 6o, but went on his own responsibility, and was followed by 
 another whaler from Hull called the William Lee. These ships 
 had both remained beyond the time which the whalers con- 
 tinue in those seas, with a special view to Captain Ross. The 
 Isabella continued about a month in the whaling ground after 
 she had taken Captain Ross and his party on board, in order to 
 enable him to make his observations, and in doing so encoun- 
 tered greater danger than usually occurs in getting out of 
 Lancaster Sound. It appears that both the Isabella and the 
 William Lee went up higher into Lancaster Sound by an 
 hundred miles, than any whaler ever had done before. Captain 
 Ross was enabled while remaining in the Isabella, to complete 
 his survey of these coasts. 
 
 The Isabella arrived at Stromness in the Orkney Islands 
 on the S7th of October, 1833, thirteen months after Captain 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 9TS 
 
 Ross bad abandoned the Victory, thirteen months of hardship 
 unequalled in the annals of the maritime service, and at the 
 same time remarkable for the small number of deaths which 
 had taken place during that period. One of the seamen died 
 in the early part of the voyage from consumption, the second 
 death arose from mental despondency ; the third, (that of the 
 carpenter) was the only death that was attributable to the ef- 
 fects of the climate. He had been carpenter of the Eurydice 
 hulk at Woolwich when this expedition was undertaken, and 
 volunteered his services to accompany Captain Ross. His 
 wife then resided at Chatham, and not having heard any tid- 
 ings of him or his companions during the long period of their 
 absence, very naturally concluded that the whole party was 
 totally lost, and accordingly went into mourning for her hus- 
 band. But soon after, she heard, with inexpressible joy, of 
 the unexpected and safe arrival of Captain Ross, and his com- 
 panions at Woolwich, upon which she immediately hastened 
 thither, with the most sanguine hopes of again beholding her 
 husband, and giving him an affectionate and welcome recep- 
 tion to his native land ; but that joy was denied her. The 
 poignancy of her grief may be imagined but cannot be describ- 
 ed, when she ascertained that the bitter confirmation of the 
 truth of her forebodings awaited her. In many instances the 
 relatives and friends of those in the expedition had acted on 
 the same supposition of their having been lost, but happy 
 were they whose suppositions were not realised. The princi- 
 pal accident that occurred was that of Captain Ross himself^ 
 who had a fall and broke both his legs. 
 
 The arrival of Captain Ross in the British Islands was im- 
 mediately announced at Lloyds, where the event was hailed 
 with great and universal satisfaction. It came with such sud- 
 denness that doubts were thrown on the authenticity of the 
 intelligence. The arrival however of the Captain and his 
 companions in Hull, soon removed these doubts, and they 
 were received with every feeling of respect. A public enter- 
 tainment was given him, on which occasion the freedom of the 
 
976 ROSSES SECOND TOYAGK 
 
 borough was presented to him, accompanied by an appropri- 
 ate address on the part of the corporation. They arrived in 
 London on the 19th of October, and the Captain wrote a let- 
 ter from the Portland Hotel to the Admiralty Commissioners. 
 On the following day he and his nephew waited on Sir James 
 Graham at the Admiralty, from whence they proceeded to 
 Windsor, where they had the honour of being presented to 
 his Majesty, and spendhig the evening at the royal table. The 
 whole crew soon after arrived in London and on the ensuing 
 Tuesday mustered at the Admiralty. 
 
 The following letter was sent to Captain Ross from the 
 Admiralty in reply to communications from him. 
 
 Admiralty, 28th of October, 1833, 
 " Sir, — I have received and laid before my Lords Com- 
 missioners of the Admiralty your letter of the 26th instant, trans- 
 mitting a list of the officers and men employed on your late 
 expedition to the Arctic Seas ; shewing the amount of pay due 
 to each, according to the scale by which you would have felt 
 yourself bound to remunerate them for their services, and I 
 am commanded by their lordships to acquaint you in reply, 
 that although these men have no claim on his Majesty'* 
 Government, inasmuch as the expedition was not sent out by 
 the Board of Admiralty, yet, in consideration of its having 
 been undertaken for the benefit of science and of the sufferings 
 these men have undergone, the perilous situation in which 
 they were placed for so long protracted a period, and their 
 uniform good conduct under circumstances the most trying to 
 which British seamen were, perhaps, ever exposed ; and their 
 lordships being moreover satisfied of your utter inability to 
 fulfil the engagements entered into by you, and of the desti- 
 tute state in which these people have providentially arrived 
 in their native country, have been induced, under such pe- 
 culiar circumstances, from a feeling of humanity, immediately 
 to relieve you from your engagements, and them from pressing 
 necessity, rather than wait till parliament shall be assembled. 
 
TO THE NORTH POLK. 977 
 
 to which it is intended to submit the case. Their lordships 
 have tlierefore directed the Accountant General of the navy, 
 to advance to you the sum of £4,580. 12s. 3d. as the amount 
 which by your statement, you feel yourself under an en- 
 gagement to pay to the persons therein named, from each of 
 whom on making their payment, you will lake a stamp re- 
 ceipt as a voucher in full of all demands they may respectively 
 have upon you. 
 
 I am, &c. 
 (Signed) J. BAiiROw." 
 
 Captain Ross, previous to his departure, had raised money 
 for his own equipment, by executing deeds for the condition- 
 al transfer of his property, and in one instance, the parties 
 had availed themselves of their legal right to obtain payment 
 calculating, as they did that he had been lost. 
 
 The committee of the House of Commons have recom- 
 mended a grant of £5000, to Captain Ross, a sum whicli will 
 scarcely cover his losses. The crew were employed in eligi- 
 ble situations in the dock-yards, or placed in others that will 
 lead to promotion ; Mr. Abernethy, the gunner, was promot- 
 ed to the Seringapatam ; Mr, Thorn, purser, to the lucrative 
 situation of purser to the Canopus, of eighty-four guns ; Mr. 
 M*Diarmid the medical officer to the expedition, appointed to 
 the situation of assistant-surgeon of the navy, and when qua- 
 lified to pass his examination, to be promoted to the rank of 
 surgeon, and Commander Ross, to whom a great part of the 
 scientific results are due, was appointed Commander of the 
 Victory, on full pay for twelve months, and at the end of 
 which, to receive the rank of Post Captain, which since then 
 has taken place; Captain John Humphreys of the Isabella, 
 has also been amply remunerated, to whose persevering hu- 
 manity Captain Ross and his party owe their lives. 
 
 Thus closes a narrative of the severest trials to which human 
 nature was ever subjected, and which are unparalleled in 
 the annals of history ; and the name of Ross will be re- 
 membered so long as the science of geography exists. 
 
978 Ross's SECOND VOYAGB 
 
 The habits and mode of life of the Esquimaux have been 
 rendered familiar to most readers by the descriptions, ample 
 and correct, which former travellers in the regions they inha- 
 bit, have given at successive periods. They present, from 
 their insulated position, a remarkable contrast to most other 
 savages ; their manners being mild and gentle, and a spirit of 
 contentment with their condition is one of the remarkable 
 features of their character : the wants of the Esquimaux, a 
 necessary consequence of the climate in which he is found, 
 are very few and very readily supplied, even by such com- 
 paratively rude means as he possesses. Contented with his 
 own lot, as much from carelessness about himself, as from want 
 of knowledge that others are better off, if his snow hut be 
 sheltered from the north wind, and if he find a sufficient sup- 
 ply of provisions for the day, he seeks no more ; his greatest 
 affliction is the loss of his day's hunting, from the severity of 
 the weather : and, living in a state of peace with each other, 
 their life presents none of those dangerous features which ren- 
 der other savages, and those in regions not very remote from 
 where the Esquimaux dwell, truly savage. In person they 
 are of low stature, but stoutly and rather well made; the com- 
 plexion is of an olive tint, the face broad and round, with 
 dark, small, and piercing eyes. Their ignorance is gross in 
 the extreme. The women differ little, either in appearance or 
 dress, from the men ; the same skin of the seal or deer, 
 suffices for eanh, and is cut and fashioned nearly in the same 
 manner. Their gestures are very significant ; and when they 
 receive small presents they express their satisfaction and de- 
 light by jumping violently in the air. 
 
 During the period of Captain Ross's sojourning among 
 them they erected a village. The only materials they made 
 use of in the construction of their huts were snow and ice, 
 and the rapidity with which they erect them, is quite equal to 
 the extraordinary nature of the matter employed in their erec- 
 tion. They are built, furnished, and inhabited in the course 
 of a very few hours. They are round, with an arched dome 
 of very good formation: the window is formed of a fragment 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 97f 
 
 of ice, which admits sufficient Jight for their purposes. The 
 entrance is by a long narrow passage in the snow ; their bed 
 is formed of an embankment of snow in the interior, which 
 they cover with skins. They cook their food with very Httle 
 attention to cleanhness or comfort, but it satisfies their wants. 
 A hollowed stone, filled with whale blubber or seal oil, serves 
 both for cooking place and lamp, and the wicks arc formed of 
 moss, which gives hght and heat to answer all their purposes. 
 As may be supposed, they possess little or no property ; their 
 skins, their trifling cooking utensils, their spears and knives 
 of whalebone, a sledge and dogs to convey it, comprise the 
 whole property of a tribe, which does not exceed a hundred 
 souls of both sexes. 
 
 The following passages from the examination of Captain 
 Ross will be read with some interest ; we prefer giving them 
 in this detached state to incorporating them with the body of 
 our narrative, that they might not interfere with its continu- 
 ousness. 
 
 "In your actual survey of the western coast of the bay of 
 Baffin, were you able to correct any material errors in the 
 existing charts ?" 
 
 " Oh, most certainly ; particularly of two banks which I 
 had formerly laid down, called the Alexander and Isabella 
 banks, which had been expunged from the charts, which I 
 originally made, by subsequent survey, but re-established by 
 nie on the same spot."" 
 
 " That is of importance, because the new whale fisheries 
 are on the spot ?'* 
 
 '* Yes." 
 
 " What latitude is that in .?" 
 
 " About sixty -nine.'* 
 
 " Have you laid down any part of the north coast of Fro- 
 bisher's Strait for the first time ?"*' 
 
 *' Yes. We consider Frobisher's Strait to be fictitious. 
 We laid down the coast between Resolution Island all the 
 
^30 Ross's SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 way to the height of seventy-four north, most of which had 
 not been laid down before. 
 
 *' When you say Frobisher's Strait is fictitious, do you be- 
 lieve there is no sea between Resolution Island and the main 
 land ?" 
 
 " Certainly, I suppose that ; but there are two Frobisher's 
 Straits ; there is one Frobisher's Strait in making Greenland 
 an island, that I consider to be fictitious; if it is the one that 
 makes Resolution Island an island, that is one certainly.*" 
 
 *' How long were you enabled to make use of the paddle 
 wheels of your steamer after you reached the heavy ice ?" 
 
 " The steam-engine gave way before we reached the ice. 
 We were run much among the ice with it, but as far as I could 
 judge they would answer uncommonly well. They answered 
 beyond my expectation.*' 
 
 '' From your experience in navigating the Polar seas, do 
 you think it safest to navigate those seas with a steam-boat 
 with the paddles projecting from her side }'^ 
 
 *' Far better than any other mode,*^ 
 
 " Are not the paddles peculiarly subject to damage.^** 
 
 *' They were peculiarly constructed for the purpose, so that 
 I could raise them out of the water at pleasure ; one man was 
 sufficient to disengage the paddle entirely from the engines, 
 and raise it out of the water, and out of the way of pressure.*' 
 
 ** And it was so contrived, that you conceive steam to be 
 applicable to the propelling of vessels in the Polar seas }" 
 
 « Yes." 
 
 " From your experience of these seas, do you conceive that 
 any further attempt to discover the north-west passage would 
 be attended with great danger }*' 
 
 « I do." 
 
 " And, if successful, would it be attended with any public 
 benefit r 
 
 " I believe it would be utterly useless.*' 
 
 ** The indications that were reUed upon in the beginning 
 of these voyages of discovery, as to leading to the conclusion 
 that a passage might be found, have totally failed .>" 
 
TO THE NORTH POLK. 981 
 
 " They have been totally disproved." 
 
 *' Does your experience lead you to make the same re- 
 mark with respect to making the northern pole by the Spits- 
 bergen sea ?" 
 
 •* I think it would be attended with danger." 
 
 " But you think it is still possible ?" 
 
 *' I think that the attempt was made at the wrong time of 
 the year." 
 
 " What is the greatest degree of latitude that any ship has 
 ever reached ?'"* 
 
 ** Scoresby has recorded that his father reached eighty- 
 four.'' 
 
 " Eighty- three has been decidedly reached ?" 
 
 « Oh yes ! Captain Parry got to 82° 43'." 
 
 *« What is the greatest degree of latitude that you have 
 found natives ?" 
 
 ** In seventy-seven north.** 
 
 Captain Charles Beaufort is examined as follows : 
 
 ** Have you the nieans of knowing whether the whale fish- 
 ery has been much extended by Captain Rosses first voyage 't^ 
 
 ** Since the discoveries in that part of the world, the wha- 
 lers have certainly gone in great numbers into Lancaster Sound 
 and have been very successful in finding whales there." 
 
 ** Are you aware how far the land was correctly laid down 
 on the west side of Baffin's Bay previous to Captam Ross's 
 voyage in the year 1818?" 
 
 " It had been laid down originally by the early discoveries 
 of Baffin, Frobisher, and others ; some doubt, however, was 
 afterwards thrown upon its correctness; but the voyages of 
 Ross and Parry have shewn that these old navigators were 
 more correct than had been imagined." 
 
 ** Is it not a fact, that, previous to Captain Ross's first voy- 
 age, Baffin's Bay had been omitted in the Admiralty's charts, 
 in consequence of the great doubt thrown upon the early 
 discoveries •?" 
 
 " I have been told so, but I never saw any chart in which 
 it was omitted.' 
 
 P. V. iZ 6 K 
 
982 Ross's SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 ** To whom do you attribute the discovery of the whale 
 fishery, on the west side of Baffin's Bay ?" 
 
 " To the several voyages that have been made tliere, but to 
 no one in particular." 
 
 " Which was the first in order ?" 
 
 '• Captain Ross's, certainly."** 
 
 We shall now present the reader with a brief account of 
 Captain Ross's opinion, as deUvered before the Committee, on 
 the subject of magnetic electricity, and some other astronomical 
 points. 
 
 "Among the valuable observations of every kind which 
 you describe the voyage to have enabled you to collect, are 
 the committee to understand that there are observations con- 
 nected with magnetic electricity ?" 
 
 " I know of no magnetic electricity; I know of no such 
 term ; but the effect of light and heat upon it is an important 
 discovery which we have made." 
 
 " With respect to observations connected with astronomy, 
 are the committee to receive such information from yourself, 
 or from Commander Ross ?" 
 
 " They may receive it from either ; Commander Ross had 
 the charge of the transit which took down the transit of the 
 stars, and also the occultations of stars by the moon and 
 moon-culminating stars.'* 
 
 " Can you or Commander Ross supply the committee with 
 a series of observations connecting the gradual dip of the 
 magnetic needle, with its perpendicular position at the point 
 which you have assigned as the true magnetic pole ?" 
 
 ** 1 have them, but not in a state to set before the com- 
 mittee." 
 
 " You stated that you did not recognise such a term as 
 magnetic electricity ; do you mean to state you do not be- 
 lieve there is any identity or necessary connection between 
 magnetism and electricity (electro- magnetism) ?" 
 
 ** I believe they may combine with each other, but I do 
 not understand how electricity can be magnetised ; the ning- 
 net may be electrified, but I do not know that it can." 
 
To THE NORTH FOLB. 9S^ 
 
 ** Is that opinion formed from the observations you made 
 during your last voyage on the phenomena of electricity and 
 magnetism ?" 
 
 *' No, there was no natural electricity present where we were." 
 
 " Then you made no observations with respect to electrical 
 phenomena which you think would be important to science T 
 
 " No, none whatever.*" 
 
 " With respect to the aurora borealis, it has been matter of 
 some discussion whether the aurora borealis is accompanied 
 with noise f 
 
 ** I never observed any noise with it, but 1 have a new the- 
 ory of it which I intend to publish." 
 
 " Did you observe any magnetic phenomena which you 
 consider of importance apart from the existence of the mag- 
 netic poles ?" 
 
 " Yes, the effect of light upon the magnet, and its exposur^- 
 to such climates." 
 
 The following, from the examination of Mr. Children, one 
 of the secretaries of the Royal Society, also ha^ reference to 
 the same subject : — 
 
 " You stated to the committee that the discovery of Com- 
 mander Ross corresponded with the preconceptions of Profes- 
 sor Barlow ; do you apprehend that the magnetic [X)le is a 
 fixed point, or moveable ?" 
 
 " The observations hitherto made cannot possibly be con« 
 sidered sufficient ; for that must require repeated observations. 
 I know it was the opinion of Professor Barlow, two or three 
 years ago, that there were not one or two but perhaps several 
 magnetic poles; the |)oles are probably fixed points ; but they 
 may be moveable. Mr. Barlow has subsequently, I believe, 
 given up that view." 
 
 " Are we not quite at the threshold of knowledge r" 
 
 *' Yes, and every observation is of course valuable." 
 
 *' Every contribution to magnetic knowledge is of very 
 great importance to a maritime country }'* 
 
 ** Yes, I should think so ; very much.'^ 
 
984 Ross's SECOND voyagb: 
 
 *' And worth the sacrifice of money f" 
 
 " Certainly ; and it is certainly something for an English- 
 man to have been the first and only one who has experimental- 
 ly decided the true position of the north magnetic polo, which 
 he has clearly done ; he appears to have gone to a point where 
 the dipping needle stood directly perpendicular, where the ho- 
 rizontal direction was entirely lost ; that is, as Mr. Barlow ex- 
 presses it, the pole itself/' 
 
 *' Did Captain Parry follow the same line ?" 
 
 " I do not recollect ; he cannot have been, on his voyage; 
 at the very spot where Commander Ross was the compass did 
 not traverse at all ; it was perfectly upright," 
 
 The select committee appointed by the House of Commons 
 to enquire into the circumstances of the expedition to the 
 Arctic Seas, commanded by Captain John Ross, with a view 
 to ascertain whether any and what reward may be due for the 
 services rendered on that occasion, and to report their obser- 
 vations thereupon to the House : together with the minutes 
 of evidence taken before them : — enquired into the matters re- 
 ferred to them, and agreed to a report of which the following 
 is an abstract. 
 
 " Your Committee have not felt themselves either called up- 
 on by their order of reference, or competent to give an opinion 
 on the precise merits or extent of the discoveries made during 
 the expedition commanded by Captain John Ross, whether in a 
 geographical or scientific point of view : they have therefore 
 confined themselves to such a general investigation into the 
 facts, as may suffice for a decision on the main question com- 
 mitted to their hands, whether any reward should be allotted 
 from the public purse, and to whom that reward is due. 
 
 ** In the course of this inquiry they find that, in the year 
 1827, Captain Ross, stimulated by the desire of securing to 
 this country the honour of settling the long-agitated question 
 of a North-W est Passage, proposed first to his majesty's go- 
 vernment, and, on their declining to undertake it, to his friend. 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 985 
 
 Mr. Felix Booth, to fit out an expedition for that purpose : 
 that in the following year Mr. Booth, finding that ihe^A ;t, 
 by which a parliamentary reward was held out for the disco- 
 very of a North- West Passage, had been repealed, and that 
 no suspicion of interested motives could any longer rest upon 
 the undertaking, '* having no other object in view than the 
 advancement of the honour of his country, and the interests 
 of science, and to gratify the feelings of a friend, immediately 
 agreed to Captain Ross's proposition, on condition that his 
 connection v^^ith the enterprise should not be made known : that 
 accordingly, with the exception of about tv7o thousand pounds 
 expended by Captain Ross, Mr. Booth did actually bear all 
 the charges of the expedition, to the amount of between f= even- 
 teen and eighteen thousand pounds : that Captain Ross, being 
 left by Mr. Booth at liberty to choose whom he pleased to 
 accompany him, received gratuitous oflPers of zealous service 
 and assistance, in any capacity, from those distinguished offi- 
 cers. Captains Back and Hoppner, offers equally creditable to 
 Captain Ross and to the spirit of those who made them : but 
 finally selected his nephew, Commander James Clark Ross, 
 a young officer of distinguished scientific attainments, who 
 had been employed in every previous expedition to the Arctic 
 seas ; and having engaged Mr. Thom as purser, who as well 
 as Commander Ross agreed to go without pay, and Mr. 
 M'DiarmidJls surgeon, together with a crew of nineteen men, 
 sailed from England in May 1829^ that in spite of the muti- 
 ny of the crew of a whaler, which had been engaged to ac- 
 company them with provisions, Captain Ross persevered, in 
 rehance on finding the supplies which had been landed by 
 the Fury, on Fury Beach, and then entered upon a course of 
 sufferings, of dangers and discoveries, for a summary of which 
 the committee referred the House to the Letter addressed by 
 him to the secretary of the Board of Admiralty, and which is 
 already given in this work. 
 
 *' Your committee have found the statements contained in 
 the above Letter confirmed, as far as they have been examined, 
 by the evidence which has appeared before them ; and, sup- 
 
93G ROSS'S SECO^JD voyaCe 
 
 ported by the opinions of Captain Beaufort, hydrographer to 
 the Admiralty, of Mr. Children, one of the secretaries of the 
 Royal Society, and of Professor Barlow, who has made the 
 magnetic variations his particular study, they see no reason to 
 doubt that Captain Ross nearly approached, and that Com- 
 mander Ross actually reached, the magnetic pole. 
 
 ** The importance, especially to a maritime nation, of this 
 discovery, and ol the observations connected with magnetic 
 science, arising thereout, is most highly estimated by the sci- 
 entific witnesses who have been examined, and it is further 
 attested by the zeal with which this branch of science has 
 been of late pursued by eminent men in every coimtry, and by 
 the expense, which several foreign governments have of late 
 years incurred for the same object. 
 
 ** Under these circumstances your committee can have no 
 hesitation in reporting, that a great public service has been 
 performed. Independently of the demonstration, that one 
 passage, which had been considered by preceding navigators 
 to be one of the most likely to lead from the Atlantic to the 
 Pacific Ocean, does not exist, thus narrowing the field for fu- 
 ture expeditions, if such should ever be undertaken ; inde- 
 pendently of the addition of between six and seven hundred 
 miles of coast to our geographical knowledge, and of the va- 
 luable additions to magnetic science and meteorology, which 
 this expedition will supply, your committee cannot overlook 
 the public service which is rendered to a maritime country, 
 especially in time of peace, by deeds of daring enterprise and 
 patient endurance of hardship, which excite the public sym- 
 pathy, and enlist the general feeling in favour of maritime ad- 
 venture. Of this result they have strong evidence in the na- 
 tional subscription, which furnished the funds for the expedi- 
 tion of Captain Back in search of Captain Ross and his gal- 
 lant party, to which the Government also contributed two 
 thousand pounds. 
 
 " Under these circumstances, and looking to the advantages 
 to science and the honour to his country which have result- 
 ed from the expedition under his command ; looking to the 
 
TO THE NORTH POLE. 987 
 
 expense which the country has been willing to incur on for- 
 mer occasions for similar expeditions, and to the rewards, 
 which it has voted even for less important and honourable 
 objects, your committee hope they are not transgressing the 
 bounds of a due regard to public economy, in recommending 
 that a sum of five thousand pounds be voted to Captain 
 John Ross. 
 
 " To Mr. Felix Booth, to whose modest public spirit and 
 rare munificence this expedition is entirely due, your com- 
 mittee regret that they have it not in their power to propose 
 some fit token of public acknowledgment; but they cannot 
 forbear offering the tribute of their admiration and respect." 
 
 It may here be noticed that the king has been pleased to 
 grant the dignity of a baronet, and his name will for ever 
 stand enrolled as one of the most noble and disinterested sup- 
 porters of the glory of his country, and the advancement of 
 nautical science. 
 
 The last accounts which had reached England from Cap- 
 tain Ross after he had taken his departure, were dated July 
 1829 i'rom Disco Island. Fears the most alarming were ex- 
 cited for his safety as thecloseof theyear 1832 approached and 
 no tidings were yet heard of him. In consequence, a meeting 
 of the Geographical Society was held, to consider what steps 
 were fit to be taken ; and it was resolved to open a subscrip- 
 tion and to organize a Committee to make the requisite pre- 
 parations for despatching a party in quest of him. This was 
 accordingly set on foot, and Captain Back was appointed to 
 superintend the expedition, which sailed on the 17th of Fe- 
 bruary 183{?, from Liverpool. Two days before the an- 
 nouncement of Captain Ross's safety, a letter was received from 
 Captain Back, dated June the 19th, from Jack River, with 
 intelligence ot his arrival at that stage of his journey. Imme- 
 diately on Captain Ross's reaching London the Comm ttee 
 for managing the Arctic Expedition under the command of 
 Captain Back met to decide on the steps they should pursue 
 in consequence, with respect to that officer's recall. The meet- 
 ing took place on the 22nd of October, when Admiral Sir 
 
988 
 
 Charles Ogle, one of its most active members, took the chair, 
 at which the following communication from Captain Ross was 
 read. 
 
 London, Oct. the 20th. 
 To the Committee for managing the Arctic Land Expedition, 
 
 Gentlemen. — Of the many circumstances of high grati- 
 fication which have welcomed the delivery of myself and my 
 companions from four years of severe suffering, there is no- 
 thing (next after a deep sense of the merciful providence 
 wherewith we have been surrounded in such great perils) 
 which has excited so strong a feeling of gratitude as the hu- 
 mane and generous sympathy of a nuniber of persons, who, 
 at the chance of being instrumental in our preservation, con- 
 tributed, with the assistance of his Majesty's government, an 
 ample sum for the purpose of paying the expense of an ex- 
 pedition which was so promptly and with so much judgment 
 put in motion by your Committee, and so wisely confided to 
 the guidance of Captain Back, whose known intelligence and 
 intrepidity gave to the Committee a certainty that all would 
 be done which a sagacious mind and unflinching perseverance 
 could accomplish. It is my wish and duty to make the ear- 
 liest acknowledgements of this instance of wide extended com- 
 passion towards us, and I venture to rely on the favour of the 
 Committee to receive with allowance this imperfect expres- 
 sion of my feehngs towards them, to his Majesty's government, 
 to the contributors to the undertaking, and to the Hudson's 
 Bay Company, for the eftbrts which might have proved, as 
 designed, the means of snatching myself and my faithful com- 
 panions from the further sufferings which, almost to the last 
 moment, we seemed doomed to encounter. 
 
 I have the honor to be, Gentlemen, 
 
 Your very humble and grateful servant,. 
 John Ross, 
 Captain^ Royal Navy, 
 
TO THE NORTH POLK. 989 
 
 The following answer was sent in reply. 
 
 Arctic Land Expedition, 
 21, Regent Street, Oct 22nd. 
 
 Sir — 1 have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of your 
 tetter of the 20th instant, addressed to the Committee for ma- 
 naging the Arctic Land Expedition, and returning your 
 thanks to its members, to the Hudson's Bay Company, and to 
 all the subscribers towards the equipment of that expedition, 
 for the exertions made by them in hopes of rescuing you and 
 yours from your perilous situation. 
 
 In reply, I beg in the name of the Committeeandof all the 
 subscribers, to offer you our warmest congratulations on your 
 safe return. And although the main object of Captain Back's 
 expedition is thus attained without his assistance, yet we feel 
 much gratified that it should have gone, inasmuch as it proves 
 to all future adventurers in a like cause, that their country 
 would not be unmindful of them ; while on the other hand your 
 "eturn also shows that no situation should be considered too 
 desperate to be beyond the reach of a similar exertion. 
 
 1 have the honor to be 
 
 Sir, your obedient servant, 
 
 Charles 0(iLE, Chairman. 
 To Captain Ross, Royal Navy. 
 
 At the same time a despatch was agreed to be forwarded 
 by a winter express to Captain Back, acquainting him with 
 Captain Ross''s return, and directing him to turn his attention 
 now entirely to the second object of his mission, — completing 
 the coast line of the north-eastern part of America, of which 
 little more than one hundred and fifty miles remain to be 
 traced. 
 
 P. V. 42. 6 L 
 
990 
 
 ROSS S SECOND VOYAGE 
 
 The following selection of a few words, will give some idea 
 of the Esquimaux language. 
 
 Angry 
 
 Erk-sissu-yak-poke. 
 
 A rrow 
 
 Kahleoke. 
 
 Aurora borealis 
 
 Arkak. 
 
 Bear 
 
 Nannoke. 
 Ninnooke. 
 
 Beads 
 
 Hu-now-yak. 
 
 Bow, for shootmg 
 
 Pit-see-ku. 
 
 Bread 
 
 She-ga-tak. 
 
 Breeches 
 
 Kakleek. 
 
 Canoe 
 
 Kei-yak. 
 
 Cloud 
 
 Noo-woo-e-a 
 
 Cold 
 
 Ik-kee. 
 
 Cry, he does 
 
 Kei-a-woke. 
 
 Dance, he does 
 
 Momek poke. 
 
 Daughter 
 
 Pannuga Pannu. 
 
 Dead, he is 
 
 Tokoo-wok. 
 
 Deer 
 
 Tookto. 
 
 Dog 
 
 Mikkee. 
 
 Drink, he does 
 
 Immuk-poke. 
 
 Ear 
 
 r Hee-u-tee-ga. 
 [He-u-ting-a. 
 
 Eat 
 
 Tamoo-a-woke. 
 
 Esquimaux 
 
 Immut-plue. 
 
 European (substantive) 
 
 Kabloona. 
 
 European (adjective) 
 
 Kabloo-nak ta. 
 
 Fat . . . 
 
 Oksumik. 
 
 Father 
 
 Attata. 
 
 Fire 
 
 Ikkooma. 
 
 Fish . 
 
 Ekkalook. 
 ■ Ek-ka-loo. 
 
 Fox 
 
 Terru-anu-arioo. 
 
 Frozen 
 
 Kir-kee-woke. 
 
 Grandmother 
 
 . In-ru-ta 
 
 Growl, he does 
 
 Kattee-mak-poke. 
 
TO 
 
 THE MORTll POLK ^^1 
 
 • 
 
 f Yuk-koke-keds-uke. 
 [ He-ek-koke-lei-gu. 
 
 Gun 
 
 
 Nusti-ak-ka. 
 [Nu-yak-ka. 
 
 Hair 
 
 Hare 
 
 Oa-ka-hk. 
 
 Mead 
 
 J Ne-a-koke. 
 [Ne-a-ko-a. 
 
 Heart 
 
 O.niit. 
 
 
 ^ Oo-u-gu. 
 
 Husband 
 
 ^Ooing-u. 
 
 
 COo-u-ma, 
 
 Hut or house 
 
 Ig-loo. 
 
 Ice 
 
 Sikkoo. 
 
 Indians 
 
 Eirt-kCi lu. 
 
 Iron 
 
 , So-wik, 
 
 Ivory 
 
 Tow-a. 
 
 Kiss 
 
 Koonig. 
 
 Knee 
 
 Sit-ko-a. 
 
 Knife, a man's 
 
 Panna. 
 
 Knife, a woman's 
 
 Oo-Ioo. 
 
 Laugh, he does 
 
 Igla-poke. 
 
 Lie 
 
 Shagloo. 
 
 Lightning 
 
 Kad-loomelkkooma 
 
 Milk 
 
 Immook. 
 
 Moon, the 
 
 An-ninga. 
 
 Mother 
 
 A-ma-ma. 
 
 Mountain 
 
 King-nak. 
 
 Mouth 
 
 Kan-na ra. 
 
 Needle 
 
 Mitkoke. 
 
 Nephew or Niece 
 
 Oyu-oga. 
 
 
 J Keei-nak 
 [King-ara. 
 
 Nose 
 
 Oil, blubber 
 
 O-ku-a-or. 
 
 Owl 
 
 Ook-pie-quak. 
 
 Paddle _ 
 
 Pa-oo-tifcL. 
 
 Pot for cooking 
 
 Oot-koo-seek. 
 
 Push, he does 
 
 Nei-pak-poke, 
 \A-yaw-uk-poke. 
 
 
932 
 
 ROSS S SECOND VOYAGE. 
 
 Rain, it does 
 
 Mak-kook-poke. 
 
 Run, he does 
 
 Akpa-yuke-poke, 
 
 Rope 
 
 Ak-lu-nake. 
 
 Salmon 
 
 Ik-a-loo. 
 
 Salt, or salt water, or sea 
 
 Tarriake. 
 
 Saw, a 
 
 Kibloo. 
 
 Scissars . . 
 
 Kiblei-ow-tik. 
 
 Seal, large 
 
 Oguke. 
 
 Sealj'small 
 
 Neiteel:. 
 
 Ship or boat 
 
 Oomiak, 
 
 Shoe . 
 
 Illeega-ga. 
 
 Sister ; 
 
 Kottang ootu Neiga 
 
 Sledge a 
 
 Ka-moo-tik. [ya. 
 
 Sleep 
 
 Senik. 
 
 Snow 
 
 Appoo. 
 
 Spear 
 
 Kiruk. 
 
 Star . . . 
 
 Oo-bloo-riak. 
 
 Sun, the . . 
 
 Nei-ya. 
 
 Swan 
 
 Ko-guke. 
 
 Tattooing 
 
 Ka-ku-na. 
 
 Thief 
 
 Tiglig-toke. 
 
 Throat 
 
 Toop-koo-ee-id-yuk 
 
 Uncle 
 
 Anga. 
 
 Walrus 
 
 Eiu-ek. 
 
 Water 
 
 Immuk. 
 
 Whale 
 
 Akko-wik. 
 
 FINIS. 
 
 Printed by J. M^Gowan, Great Windmill Street. 
 
?igif-r-' 
 
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